IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) -^liSkl. 1.0 I.I ISO ^^ 2.2 ut 1^ 1.8 1 1.25 ||,.4 ,,.6 ^ 6" ► Photographic Sdences Corporation 4 «^\ ?i\^ <*k, L17 % ^ O^ '^J5^ 23 WKST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '^ ■^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian tnstitute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiquas V Technical and Bibliographic Notas/Notas tachniquaa at bibliographiquaa Tha Instituta has anamptad to obtain tha bast original copy availabia for filming. Faaturas of this copy which may ba bibliographicaliy uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagas in tha reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. □ Coloured covers/ Couverture de coul«ur I I Covers damaged/ D D D D Couverture endommagte Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur^ at/ou pellicula I I Cover title missing/ La titra de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartas giographiquas an couleur □ Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrationa en couleur Bound with other material/ Relii avac d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ Laraliure serrie peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distorslon le long de la marge int6rlaura Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within tha text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certainas pages blanches ajoutias lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans la texte, mais, lorsqua cela itait possible, ces pages n'ont pas «t4 filmtes. L'Institut a microfilm* le meilleur exempiaira qu'il lui a tti possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exempiaira qui sont paut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique. qui pauvent modifier una image reproduite. ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mikthoda normale de filmaga sont indiquAs si-daaaous. r~n Coloured pages/ D Pagea de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagtes Pages restored and/oi Pages restaurtes at/ou pelliculAes Pages discoloured, stained or foxei Pages dAcolories. tachetAes ou piquias Pages detached/ Pages d^tachtes Showthrough> Transparence Quality of prir Quality in^gaie de ('impression Includes upplementary materii Comprend du material supplimantaira Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible I — I Pages damaged/ I — I Pages restored and/or laminated/ FT] Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ I I Pages detached/ r~l Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ r~~1 Includes upplementary material/ r~1 Only edition available/ D Additional comments:/ Commentairas supplimantairas.- Irregular pagination Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc.. have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiallament obscurcies par un fauillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont M filmtes A nouvaau de faqon A obtanir la meilleure image possible. [1] - 12. [i] -iv. 113J - 246, 246», 246», 246», 246», 246», 246*. 246». 247-272, [17] p. This item is filmed at tha reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux da riductinn indiqui ci-dassous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X XX y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here hat been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Douqias Ubrary Qi.en's University L'exempiaire fi!m4 fut reproduit grAce i ,^a g*n4rosit4 do: Dougias Library Queen's University The imeges appeering here are the best quality poaeibie considering the condition end iegibility of the original copy and in Icaeping with the filming contrect specificetions. Originsi copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover end ending on the lest psge with e printed or illustrated Impres- sion, or the bacic cover when eppropriete. All other originel copiee are filmed beginning on the first pege with e printed or illustrsted impree- sion, and ending on the lest pege with e printed or illustrsted impression. Les imeges suivantes ont 4t* reproduces avec ie plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition at de Ie nettetA de I'exempielre filmA, et en conformiti avec las conditions du contrst de filmage. Les exempiaires origineux dont Ie couverture en pepier eet ImprimAe sent fiimfo en commenfsnt par Ie premier plat et en terminent soit par la dernlAre pege qui comporte une empreinte d'impreeslon ou d'illustrstlon, soit per Ie second plet, seion Ie cas. Tous les eutres exemploires origineux sent film4s en commen^ant par la pramiAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impreesion ou d'illustration et en terminent per Pe dernlAre pege qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on eech microfiche shall contain tho symbol — ^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un dee symboles suivants apperattra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, seion Ie ces: Ie symbols — »> signlfie "A SUIVRE", ie symbols ▼ signlfie "FIN". Meps, pistes, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction retios. Thoss too large to be entirely included in one exposurs ere filmed beginning in the upper left hend corner, left to right end top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams iiiustrsta the method: Les csrtes, planchss, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmte A des taux de rMuction diff6rents. Lorsque ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seui clichA, 11 est f limA A partir de i'angie supArieur gauche, de gauche i droits, et de haut en bee, sn prenant ie nombre d'imeges nAcesseire. (.as diagrammes suivants iillustrent Ie mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 i i u ^.: \-'. ■i- DESCRIPTIVE AND STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OP CANADA: SHEWING ITS GREAT ADAPTATION FOR BRITISH EMIGRATION. , PBECEDBO BT AN ACCOUNT OF A TOUR THROUGH PORTIONS OP ^ '-"■ /' ■-■ ■■".' THE WEST INDIES AND THE UNITED STATES. BY THOMAS ROLPH, ESQ. AMCASTER, CANADA. ^^^^>^t^t^*0*^*^*^*^^%^^^*^*^^^^ SECOND EDITION. LONDON: SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 6'5, CORNHILL. 1841. (^^. -^^'j^i'/^^O r/o)'i.T^7 r\)y. I ' u ^?^:*-^-.4«- ■n •i ■s. • * Y^^^ ^m^frt^ . y PREFACE. Although I am free to confess that my object, in ap- pending a Statistical account of Upper Canada, to my notes of the West Indies and United States, is to induce that portion of the Bi itish population, whose prospects at home are gloomy and indifferent, to examine into the actual resources of a Province, that would prove i| bles- sing to emigrants, and be improved by emigration ; yet I have most carefully endeavored to give only such state- ments as I can fully and entirely substantiate. The inhabitants of Great Britain have been too apt to consider Canada as merely a region of ice and snoW; of pine forests and lakes, of trappers and Indians, with a few forts and villages intermixt, and producing only moccasins, furs and ship timber. * >• But this is a very imperfect view of that interesting country, which is growing in population and improving ill cultivation, more rapidly perhaps than any part of the United States, if we except the territory of Michigan, and which must become, at no very distant period, a wealthy, powerful, and populous Province, especially since the efforts of a few worthless incendiaries striving to kindle civil war, have proved unsuccessful, by the almost unan- imous decision of its inhabitants, conveyed in numberless addresses to the present enlightened Lieutenant Governor, expressive of their determination to prevent the dismem- berment of the empire, and by the return of a large majo- rity of Constitutional members to represent their feelings in the House of Assembly. The government of Great Britain, and the soundness of the great bulk of the people, will prevent such a calamity from ever taking place. U.5906 4» PREFACE. " That the Canadian Provinces wilj become a rich, powerful, and populous country, is certain. No minister, no policy, can prevent that But whether that wealth, and population, and power, shall b<« British, is for the wisdom of Government and Parliament to determine. May it not be hoped, that the new constituents, and their representa- tives, who have now succeeded to power, will make it a point of honor and of pride, not to suffer the empire of their country to receive any detriment under their authority, not a single island to be lost, not one Colony to be severed, not an inch of frontier or fishery usurped, nor any source of wealth or industry to decay ; lest it should be written to posterity, that a Reformed Parliament knew not even to sustain and preserve that greatness, which the Boroughmongers had been able to acquire." If we look at the map, the truth is apparent to the eye, which is seldom adverted to, when we speak of Canada, that a large portion of the Province lying immediately northward of lake Erie, is situated in a lower latitude than the greater part of Michigan, lower than all that fine and fertile region along the great Canal in the State of New York, very little further north than the Pennsylvania line, and in the same parallel with Massachusetts. But it is well known that the climate is much less severe be- tween the same parallels, as we approach the west, thus Pittsburgh has a softer winter and a shorter one than Philadelphia, and Buffalo than Albany, so Upper Canada is much milder than Massachusetts. ** The most populous portion of Russia is twenty degrees to the north of the American border of Upper Canada; Montreal lies nearly in the same parallel whioh cuts through the south of France, the Adriatic, and the Black Sea ! and above all, the Colonists crowding to that country are Britons— ^a race proverbially successful in all the tasks to be achieved by patient vigor and fearless adventure. Those men re- quire only room ; their native energies will do the rest. The forest will be cleared, the morass drained, the prairie will be a corn-field, the sandy hill will bear the vine, the huge lakes, those mediterraneans of the new world, will be covered with the products of the mineral and agricultural wealth of the country ; coal has been already discovered in great abundance ; iron and the various metals are already worked ; t'hl'.FACKi 6 the hills abound in every kind of limestone, up to the purest marble. The climate ir> singularly heahhy. 'JMie higher latitude repels all the summer epidemics that ravage the United States. Even in the sever- ity of its winters, ail that i» injurious will yield to the thinning of the iiuests, the drainings of the 8wa.'.nps, and the other labors of the accu- mulating population. The temperature of the European climates has gradually given way to the same means. The north of France, at the time of the Roman conquest, was incapable of rearing the vine. The north of Clermany was the habitual seat of winter. Its frosts and damps, more than the sword of Artniniu!), repelled the Roman soldier, seasoned as he was, beyond all other men, to all vicissitudes of climate. But whatever may be the dreams of England's supremacy in this quar- ter of the globe, in one thing she cannot be a dreamer — in the lofty «nd cheering consciousness that she has laid the foundation of a great society, where all before was a wilderness. Whether the Canadasshall retain their allegiance, or shake it off» there will, at least, be human beings where once was solitude ; law — where once was the license of savage life ; religion, where the Indian once worshipped in brutish iguoraflce ; and England's will be the wand that struck the waters from the rock, and filled the desert with fertility and rejoicing. *' Tlie King of Great Britain, at thi^ hour, commnnds a more nu* merous people than that of any other sceptre on the globe. He is monarch over one hundred millions of men ! With him the old Span- ish boast is true : *'On his dominions the sun never sets." But the most illustrious attribute of this unexampled empire is, that its princi- ple is benevolence ! that knowledge goes forth with it, that tyranny sinks before it, that in its magnificent progress it abates the calamities of nature, that it plants the desert, that it civilizes the savage, that it strikes off the fetters of the slave, that its spirit is at once, '* Glory to God, and good wilt to man.'' A great part of Upper Canada is delightfully situated fur an agricultural country, free from mountains, it is nevertheless ebundantly watered, and almost surrounded and intersected by navigable rivers and lakes, on which its produce is easily transported to various and extensive markets. It possesses a soil as well as climate peculiarly favorable to the growth of wheat, and immense quantities arc grown in it. The Welland Canal connects the navi- gation of lakes Erie and Ontario ; the Rideau Canal, 6 ; X PREIACE. constructed round the obstructions in the St. LawrcncCf opens a free communication by water from the shores of the Detroit river to Montreal, and thence to the Atlantic ; and il'is in contemplation to connect lakes Huron and Simcoe with the long an'd extensive chain of lakes throughout the Newcastle District, or improving the nav- igation of the Ottawa river and connecting it with lake Huron, opening a great field for agricultural and commer- cial enterprize. The advantage of the navigation of these Canals and the St. Lawrence, are as exclusively British, as the navigation of the Mississippi is American : and the British government in order to augment and foster her immense navigating interests, permits Canadian produce into her ports at a very small duty, and the Pro- vincial legislature has just petitioned for a further remis- sion of the duties on tobacco, the western section of the Province having been discovered to be peculiarly favora- ble for its growth. It is also ascertained that the climate and soil, especially that of the western part of Upper Canada, are admirably adapted for the growth of the white Mulberry, to the cultivation of which, the attention of our enterprising neighbors in the United States has long been earnestly directed : . favored as we are in our commerce with Great Britain, it would prove a mine of wealth to the Province if entered into with spirit. This country possesses physical capabilities of greatness and of wealth, without limits, and beyond all bounds ; she has a territory which is spread out to an interminable extent, and fertile in every production, conducing to the necessi- ties and the gratification of animal nature; her navigable rivers, her capacious and convenient ports, and the broad blue bosom of the Atlantic main, which connects her with the Mother country and her other Colonies, and with the kiugdojus of Europe, all give to her the means and the PREFACE, 7 facility of acquiring tlie most ample and the most perma- nent fticngth. *' Nature and the arts have connpired to make the Gulph of St. Lawrence the seat of empire in America. Cape Breton is its gate and key ; Quebec, with its silver spires and batteries confronting heaven, is its citadel — and ths towers along the steeps of Halifax, and cannon that bristle on the shore, guard the port and arsenal of Marine. Within reach, the commerce of the Atlantic is carried by, on the stream from the Gulph of Mexico, as on the bosom of a river, as the commerce of the five great lakes will descend the broad St. Lawrence by the gates of duebec. Cape Breton, Halifax, the islands of Grand Manan and Bermuda, not only secure the navigation of the ocean, but they shut up and form a chain of blockade along the whole American coast. Late be the necessity of exerting such a power again, as its former exercise was brief and successful ; but it is only by such pledges that this country includes many people in her empire, and imposes the laws of industry and peace." .-■,■> ■ With regard to choice between Canada and the United States, particularly Hliuois and Michigan, to which the preference has been given by some late British anti-Brit- ish writers, two circumstances should be well considered : First, to become a citizen of the United States, a person roust serve an apprenticeship of five years, during which period he is considsred as an alien ; at least three years before he is deemed worthy of naturalization, he is com- pelled to appear before a public court, abjure for ever his allegiance to the land of his birth, and the King, and Con- stitution, which he has ever been accustomed to revere. After this probation, and at the end of five years, he has agdn to renew his protestations of fidelity to the govern- ment of the United States, his abjuration of all Kings, more especially the King of Great Britain and Ireland, After this purification from all monarchial principles, he may possess land and houses, and hold hereditable proper- ty, but he may rest assured that he will never obtain any office either of honor or emolument in the state. Second, ifk addition to the gratification of associating with num- 8 PREFACE. bersfrom Great Britain, and seeing the Britisii flag proudly waving in every harbor ,* in Upper Canada, a native of Great Britain can hold property at once, becomes ol't^iblc to every office, and is indeed and in tact fully entitled to all the rights and privileges he enjoyed at home, and hap- pily exempt from all the burdens which must necessarily co-exist with a huge national debt. Then with regard to salubrity, Canada must unquestionably take the prefer- ence, the cold of winter is divested of more than half of its gloom and misery, by the extreme dryness of the at- mosphere ; and the intense heat of summer is attempered by delightful breezes from the lakes. In Illinois the sum- mer is much hotter than in Canada, and the country is indifTerently watered : in Michigan the water is extremely bad, and the country abounds in pestilential swamps. It is a very convincing proof of the excellence of the institu- tions of Canada, and quite demonstrative of the freedom from all oppression on the part of the government, that numbers of respectable citizens from the United States come annually to settle in Canada, and that there is not a Session of the Provincial parliament, in which there are not many applications, by such persons, for the power of naturalization. They are too keen and clear sighted a people to settle and become subjects, in a country, where oppression exists, or where the most ample opportunities are not afforded of a'^quiring competence. ' Taxation can scarcely be said to exist in Canada, it is so trifling, and only for repairing roads, and the expenses of the different districts. Servants and laborers, and me- chanics of all descriptions are certain of employment and ample remuneration ; and instances are numerous, of per- sons of this class having sent home money from their savings, to assist in bringing out their indigent relations. The public works in progress will furnish employment, FREFACE. 9 for years to come, to any number of laborers coming from Great Britain, and will continue to sustain the present high wages which they receive for their work. The route by the St. Lawrence, in good ships, is certainly prefera- ble, for persons of small means; the passage is cheap, the facility of reaching every portion of the Upper Province great, and at small expense ; whilst the tstablishment throughout the Canadas, of benevolent societies, formed for the purpose of aiding indigent emigrants, must prove a great inducement to those whose helpless condition len- ders elemosynary assistance indispensable. Thus the poor laborer of Great Britain may come with confidence to this country, and be sure to find a refuge ; his industry encouraged, his piety respected, his ambition animated : with no restraint but those laws which are the same to all, and no distinction but that which his merit may origi- nate. Who can deny that the existence of such a country, in connection with Great Britain, presents a subject for human gratulation ! Who can deny that its gigantic ad- vancement ofiers a field for the most rational conjecture ? I take this opportunity of returning my very sincere thanks and acknowledgements to many kind friends, for the valuable assistance they have afforded me, in the com- pilation of these Statistics. To my venerable friend, the Bishop of Kingston, whose long residence in this Province, and whose unquenchable zeal in the promotion of its welfare, has long endeared him to the great bulk of its inhabitants, I am especially obliged. He came into this Province when there were but few houses in it, performing incredible journies by land and by water, wading through rivers, reposing in the forests, or receiving occasional accommodation in the moveable hut of the wandering savage : be has lived to see it the abode of thousands, who, without any other 2 10 PREFACE. \- i I ; capital than their perso-ial labor, began to denude the soil of its primeval forests, and are now owners of extensive, >vell cultivated farms, and surrounded by all the substantial comforts of life. It has been his earnest desire to behold the industrious, but overburdened, classes from Great Britain, receiving the full meed of their laborious exer- tions here, where property is unencumbered with feudal burdens, undiminished by quit-rents or taxes, guarded by laws equally administered, and sustained by the tutelary arm of Great Britain. Bishops McDonell and McEache- ven were amongst the first to induce emigration to Can- ada and Novascotia, by exerting their influence amongst the brave and hardy Highlanders, when quitting their native mountains, not to desert their ancient banner of St. Andrew, but take up their abode in a Colony of the British Crown. And notwithstanding one of the most abandoned men that ever disgraced the human name or race, has been exerting himself for years, to sever the connection between this Province and the Parent State, yet I believe the great bulk of the pec^le are quite satis- fied with the benevolent intentions of the British govern- ment towards this Colony ; exemplified, as it is, in every measure that could tend to promote its prosperity, and crowned by the luminous Instructions of Lord Glenelg to the present talented Governor of the Province, Sir P. B. Hefid, in the s&tlsfactory declaration, that her unrivalled Constitution shall be firmly upheld. These base dema- gogues have fully satisfied the public of their revolution- ary views, and are only supported by those whose aim is destruction, anarchy, and rebellion. They have sounded Alecto's horn in a peaceful and prospering Province, re- tarded its improvement, and checked emigration for some time, and despoiling and destroying, to the utmost of their power, the frnits of Industry, and the hopes of advance- PREFACE* 11 nicnt, of thousands of enterprising, well affected sub- jects. , . ** Thus the pestilent Upae, the hydra of trees, ■ Its bough o'er the wilderness spreads, m i^<^> And with livid contagion polluting the breeze^ r • ,.1, » Its mildewing influence sheds ;" But now that the knavery and u icked designs of these men are discovered, who have made "a fraudulent tradfr of their politics, under the illusive pretext of patriotism," it is to be hoped that the wise policy of the British govern- ment will cause the cessation of political agitation, and induce British subjects to embark their capital in Canada. It is this that will enrich her fields, build up her villages, populate her towns, and add wealth and magnificence to her cities. It is only wicked agitators, and incipient re- bellion, that can arrest her, midway in her career. She holds within her own bosom the materials, and occupies the elevated station that qualifies her for the noble gran- deur of her destiny. Let her policy of internal improve- ment, then, be continued — let the mother country receive the grateful homage of loyal subjects, then will the benig- nant sway of Great Britain be felt, and the benificieat effects of her legislation will fall, like the dews of heaven, fertilizing and enriching all within its influence. Steatii- boats and schooners will more and> more crowd the har- bors on the lakes — the canals and rail roads will be cov- ered with merchandize — new villages, towns and cities will be constantly springirig into exisience, realizing the following beautiful and almost prophetic lines of the poet: •* Coine, bright Improvemeist! on the car of Time, And rule the spacious wuiid fiom cfime to clime ; Thy handmaid arts shall every Wild explore, Trace every wave, and culture every shore. , -' On Erie's banks, where tigers steal along, . .< And the dread Indian chants a dismal song, Where human fiends on midnight errands walk, n Vv 12 PREFACE. And bitheia brains the murderous tomahawk : There shall the flocks on thyroy pasture stray, And shepherds dance at Summer's opening day ; Each wand'ring genius of the lonely glen Shall 8-: '^■'y.-'i-' i ' 4 1 \ f-,> \ \ PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. i< ff'i- '■:,-'■' l0^, ■-» In inviting the public attention to Canada, through a Second Edition of my work, I feel most sensibly the truth of an observation made by a writer, on the United States, that such is the increase of popula- tion — the progess of cultivation — the extent of set- tlement — the rapid formation of villages, towns, canals, roads, &c. in America, that a new work might well be written of the same country, or state, every ten years, and that scarcely an original fea- ture would then be preserved. This circumstance equally holds true with Canada — it is but little more than half a century since that portion of British North America known as Upper Canada, was a vast tenantless waste ; it has now upwards of two millions of acres of land in fine cultivation ; half a million of inhabitants ; and enterprise, acti- vity and industry, are making rapid strides in the general improvement to be witnessed throughout the whole extent of its length and breadth. To emi- gration from the British isles, is this flourishing ap- pearance to be attributed. Nothing can be more conclusive than to this cause is the present condition of the Newcastle district to be ascribed ; the scene of the late Honourable Peter Robinson's successful exertions in 1825. There is no section of the I 11 PREFACE. country which contains a more thriving, industrious, and wealthy population, or presents to the gratified spectator, more unerring indications of agricultural prosperity. The rapidity of settlement, may be seen well exemplified in the case of the town of Peterboro' in this district. It was only surveyed in the autumn of 1825. Its position is certainly strik- ing and beautiful, on the verge of a lovely river and at the head of the navigable waters from the Rice Lake. It has now a population of 1300, many large and handsome edifices, churches, court-house, &c., and an adjacent country well settled by most respectable individuals. Yonge Street, the main road from the city of Toronto to Lake Simcoe, has improved in an extraordinary degree since 18.32. From Toronto, on both sides of the road, elegant detached mansions, with ornamental grounds and gardens, have been erected for a considerable dis- tance, displaying great taste and spirit on the part of the owners. The Gore district has also greatly improved since 1832; the large and beautiful town of Hamilton may be said almost to have been made since that period. At that time, it was certainly but a small town ; now it is one of great magnitude, carrying on* extensive trade, and continues still en- larging and improving with much rapidity. It is at the head of Lake Ontario, and a place of vast com- mercial importance. The London district has also increased in population and settlement to such an extent, as to have rendered it necessary to portion off two districts from it, since 1832 ; viz. the Brock and Talbot districts. Woodstock, the district town PREFACE. ill of Brock, is a large and pretty town, surrounded by some of the finest mansions in Canada, and has a society not to be surpassed in the province. The Western district, with its mild climate and rich soil, is at length receiving that attention which its beauty and fertility demand. For the improvements in the Huron district, I refer to the account of my tour through it last autumn. The government have lately opened, for cultivation and settlement, a very rich domain extending from Garrafraxa to Owen's Sound on Lake Huron. This beautiful and valuable tract of land offers a wide field for the industry and enterprise of frugal and steady settlers of moderate means. The trade of the country has also increased in proportion with its settlement. The tolls taken on the various canals, and other lines of communica- tion, have augmented prodigiously — particularly on the Welland Canal, the main branch of communica- tion between the lakes. The union of the provinces has been accomplished by the successful exertions of the present Governor General Lord Sydenham, under whose wise and enlightened administration there is every reason to believe that the province will remain in tranquillity — its prosperity be en- hanced — its settlement expedited — and its welfare promoted. The inhabitants, desirous of aiding the settlement of their fellow subjects from the British isles, have formed emigration societies in the re- spective districts, and seeing what mighty advan- tages have resulted alike to those who have hereto- fore settled in the country, and to the colony also, the most beneficial Results may be expected from 1^ IV PREFACE. these patriotic combinations. The more diffused knowledge of Canada, throughout the United King- dom, has effectually dispelled the erroneous senti- ments once entertained about its climate, &c. and the conviction now felt that it is adapted, in all respects, to the inhabitants of the British isles, and offers secure and profitable investment for capital and industry, will give a tone, direction, and im- petus to future emigration, that will not readily be diverted from that channel. It would be unneces- sary to go into minute details of improvement ; many public and private enterprises are in progress — many determined on — and many more projected — but a reference to a small work, recently published by Smith and Elder, entitled " A Statement of the Satisfactory results which have attended Emigra- tion to Upper Canada," will amply and irresistibly prove the great and unexampled success which has attended the laborious efforts of its settlers, and warrant the continued exertions of those disinter- ested gentlemen who have been furthering emigra- tion to the British North American Provinces during the last two years. ii i- ;■;.. .■',;«V- r . ,■«» ' 1'.. -.- ■ , •■ -V, CHAPTER I. :>;■'* r :■ -■u The fearful excitement which existed, on the subject of Colonial Slavery, in England in 1 832, as it compelled the Government to legislate upon it, with a view to its final extinction, cannot be speedily forgotten. Having determined to change my residence from England, for some of the Colonies of Great Britain, I was most agreea- bly surprised in meeting with an intelligent and liberal West India Planter, who had resolved on visiting Upper Canada, in order to make it his future residence, if the soil, climate, and other advantages were such as he bad been induced to expect from the writings of those indi- viduals who had resided in that country. Until that time, New South Wales had been the object of ray choice ; but the kind invitation which I received from my valued and esteemed friend,'to visit his property in the West Indiesand afterwards accompany him to America, quickly induced rae to change my mind. I confess that the lectures which I had heard in England, from the hired agents of the anti-Slavery society, and the natural abhorrence with which Englishmen contemplate a state of bondage, had induced me to form a very strong opinion on that subject, extremely hostile to the West India interest. My friend never obtruded the subject on me, it was one to him of a painful character, as his natural benevolence of disposi- tion, and ardent love of liberty, at once compelled him to admits and acknowledge that Slavery was theoretically. 14 M WEST INDIES. k- * p f t r, 'i Utterly indispensable ; whilst his susceptibility was muclr afTected by the exaggerated and interested accounts given of its pretended manifold horrors and practical mischiefs. In the County of Essex, which I liad just left, at the annual meeting of the Maldon Whig Club, Mr. Honey- wood, a gentleman of talent and liberality, experienced no inconsiderable portion of disapprobation, for having , ventured to interpose a few words in behalf of the slave proprietors. These circumstances produced a powerful impression on ray mind, and induced me to take notes of passing occurrences. We sailed from Gravesend in the brig Retrench, on Saturday morning, Nov. 17th, 1832, and from adverse winds, and fog, were compelled to drop anchor off the Sluice house, Canvey Island. We left anchorage on Sun- day morning, at 10 o'clock— kept tacking about— made . but little progress, and cast auchor again at four o'clock, offShoebury Ness. On Monday we sailed at six o'clock, but the fog increased so much, that we were compelled to come to anchorage again at ten. On Tuesday we met the ships Talvera, and Calypso, making for Chatham, to be repaired, in consequence of the injury they had sustained during the fog, whilst engaged in watching the coast of Holland. We came to anchor at Deal, which presents a handsome appearance from the sea. Walmer Castle, immediately contiguous to it, is a fine structure, the residence of the Master of the Cinque Ports. We left Deal on Wednesday at two o'clock, and arrived at Ports- mouth on the following afternoon. During these few days I had suffered most severely from sickness ; the ner- vous system was so disturbed as to prevent me from slee- ; ping, and even after landing, the vertiginous aflection ( aiising from the tremulous and undulating rocking of the ship, still foi> some period remained' unabated. We were- f.- WEST INDIES. 15 detained some time at anchor, opposite Ryde, from the ^)revalence of adverse winds ; the motion of the ship, Avhen at anchor, in a rough sea, is extremely disagreeable. From our detention, an opportunity was afforded me of visiting a Convict ship, then taking in stores at Ports- mouth. There were arrangements in her, for conveying two hundred and eighty criminals to New South Wales. The manner in which the ship was fitted up, combined security with comfort. The holds, in which the convicts «leep, were commodious : their allowance of food very liberal, and of the best quality, and every indulgence, con- sistent with their safety, is extended towards them, if their conduct is orderly and well behaved. The unfortu- nate creatures were taken on board the ship, during our stay at Portsmouth : they gave three hearty cheers as they left the land of their fathers ; most of them for ever. The government, willing to show them every kindness, orders the ship to remain off land for ten or twelve days, in order that they may communicate with their friends. On the 5th of December we weighed anchor, and from that time until the 7th, we were struggling through the channels — at one time in danger of being becalmed, and at others endeavoring to make the best of violent and unfavorable winds, until at length on the 7th we swept past the land's end, and the famed white cliff's of Eng- land receded from our sight. The deadly and incessant sickness under which I labored, I will not attempt to de- scribe. In another place, I will suggest some remedies for its alleviation. Our voyage was marked by no pecu- liarity. I was however greatlv amused, at a long conver- sation we sustained, with another ship, the Enchantress, a free trader, carrying out emigrants to New South Wales. The system of interrogation and answer is effected by a species of telegraph, with flags numbered for that purpose ; 16 WEST INDIES. li 5, » [I the facility with which it is done, must prove of immense ullUty to mariners. By the 18th of December we were in warm latitude?, and nothing could exceed in beauty the rising and setting sun. Tlie orb ofday, ' ' v ' ' ,v f Til Southern climes, o'er ocean's waveless field, i Sinks sweetly smiling' : not the fuinted breath ' ; Steals o'er the unruffled deep ; the clouds of eve *'^' Reflect unmoved the lingering beam of day ; *" ' And vesper's image on the western main • Is beautifully still. The weather was remarkably calm, and warm ; the gram- pusses were frisking about the ocean, amusing us with their frolicsome gambols, and we also observed during the continuance of this serenity many birds. 'I here is . something disagreeable in the glare of tha sea in a com- » plete calm, the motion of the ship is unpleasant, and the * perpetual flapping of the sails annoying from its monotony. And there the sea I found Calm as a cradled child in dreamless slumber bound. ^^ Here Jie ship made a full Stop. . 'Day came, and went, and came, and bioughtno wind!' "And there she lay, morning, noon and night, rocking and rolling on ' the huge, lazy ocean, which, smooth as a polished mirror or a lady's i brow, on the surface, still hove up and down with the ceaseless, majes- tic, and v«ry uncomfortable unrleiswell of the Atlantic. There is noth- / ingelse like that in nature. You that have not seen it, imagine your- selves looking at a boundless and uneven pastoral country, divested of hedge or tree : then imagine the multitudes of meadows beneath your ' eye rising slowly and gracefully to an equality with the hill-tops, and ' theti declining again into long sweeping valleys or abrupt dells, and '. you havesome slight idea of the Atlantic in a calm. It is unquestiona- bly sublime, (for a little bit,) the image of slumbering power, etc. ; but I rather think that if Job had been tried upon it for any length of time, there would have been a diflferent version of his history at this day." I Now this lulling about, as Coleridge says, * As Idle as a painted ship « - , Upon a painted ocean.' WEST INDIES. ff ' On Christmas day we came into the trade winds, tlic biTozes were strong, and the ship sailed along majestically >vith a Jnrgo press of canvass on her. On the 30th we crossed Aie line ; the sailors were kind enough to spare me from their customary ablutions, as I had given them u herewith to offer up an atonement to Neptune, in the form of grr»g. On the 5th of Jauuary we saw an eclipse of the moon, from the commencement to its final disap- pearance ; it was very distinct, and enabled the Captain to test the accuracy of his chronometer, by comparing the beginning and end of the eclipse with the time stated in the Nautical Almanack. He found it perfectly exact, the difference of time in the latitude and longitude we were in, was somewhat more than three hours. On the 7th we dined off a leg of mutton, kept nine days — it was of the last of a sheep we brought from the Isle of Wight, and proved remarkably sweet and tender. We were then in latitude N 15 ® 17'. 1 mention this, because it is very sin- gular, that if a sheep brought from the West Indies were killed in a still more northern latitude, it could not be preserved untainted for upwards of two days. This has been frequently noticed in the ships homeward bounds On the 13t. the Captain calculated on making land, anxious on account of my enfeebled state, I was on deck as early as four o'clock in the morning, and was sorely disappointed at finding that he could not observe the most remote appearance of it. He had put the ship on easy canvass, during the night, from his conviction that we could not be far from laud. When broad day light ap- peared, he ordered all necessary sail to be made, and the lad who was sent up to the mast head to unfurl the sails, suddenly beheld the distant coast, and exclaimed greatly to our joy, that he saw the land a point and a half on the starboard bow. It proved as he said, and we dropped 3 i8 WEST INDILS. anchor at one o'clock in Carlisle Bay, iiarbados. The first point of land that we ascertained distinctly, is calUrd MoncriciT, situate in the parish of St. John's. It is a bold eminence, and has a signal post communicating with Cot- ton Hill, Granadc Hall, and Gun Hill in St. George's parish. It is one, of a range of hills, objects of great beauty in St. John's. The Cocoa nut trees fringing the shores : the splendid breakers, called Bow Bells, extending a con- siderable distance into the sea, and the dazzling whiteness ol the beach, were all objects of delight to eyes accustom- ed to the sight of nought but sea and water lor forty days. nil nisi pontus et aer. All along the coast. Cocoa nut trees were growing, but much fewer than before the great hurricane, they were still, however, remaining in suilicient numbers to render the shore an object of deep interest and great beauty. Before rounding a point of the Island, called Needham's Point, we caught a glimpse of Carlisle Bay. It forms both a commodious and safe harbor, there were many ships at anchor, waiting the sugar harvest, and being Sunday, they were very gaily decorated with their res- pective colors, pendants and ensigns, and formed an im- posing and beautiful appearance. The bay is not very spacious, but the anchor .ge is considered good, numbers of shii^s always laying there in complete safety. The carenagc is protected by a fine and very substantial pier. The view of the garrison and naval hospital, the houses and churches of Bridge Town — the bold headlands of the interior of the island — the gaily dressed shipping in the bay, men of war, merchantmen, and coasting schooners — the crowds of negroes — the appearance of the trees, shrubs, and blowers — the highly cultivated fields sloping to the water's edge, were all alike objects of novelty and gratification to me, to which an additional zest was given WEST INDIES. * .*ifl^ hy once more being on terra Arma* On going up the c»>untry to my friend's estate, I was forcibly struck and much delighted with the neat appearance and laughing faces of the negroes, who were enjoying themselves in groups along the road side, many of them carrying bask- ets of fruit on their heads for sale, it being Sunday they passed the day as they pleased. The various plantations wc passed, the collection of negro habitations, the number of windmills, and sugar houses, the extreme richness and splendour of the flowers and trees, were all novel and de- lightful objects. Indeed throughout the island was to be seen nought but the appearance of happiness, content- ment, and prosperity. '" « r rJ'.w, :/;)•'' »;|. • i''K r; -fM :' /TtT^^l^r Ilk ;!^!. !•,•■.. .-.,..:•/: CHAPTER II. '.*)v;..^^' 1 have stated that it was not a matter of choice with the British government whether or not they would legislate on the subject of Colonial Slavery; this will unquestion- ably appear by a reference to the number of petitions sent to the Imperial Parliament on the matter. In tlic session of 1833, tliere were presented to the House of Commons 5,020 petitions, with 1,309,711 signatures, praying for the immediate abolition ol Slavery throughout the British do- minions. At that period, the office of Colonial Secretary was filled by an individual of distinguished talent, Lord Stanley. He well knew that the question must at once be boldly met, and legislative measures adopted, to pacify a people so determined as those of Great Britain, on r. m i'ii I I ! Ik 20 WEST INDIES. subject too, of all others, to the consideration of which they would not bring either reason, or fair argument ; nor on which would they allow themselves to be influenced by any considerations of policy or expedienc}'. It was clear that the longer the measure was delayed, the greater would the excitement become, and that the party which would ultimately suffer the most, would be iiic planter, as every year would render their clamorous opponents bolder, and stronger, and less inclined to accede to the measure of compensation, without which it would have been one of barefaced injustice, and shameless robbery. The inhabitants of Barbados were in the highest excite- ment in anticipation of the measures which would be adopted by an administration generally adverse to their interests, and easily influenced by public clamour. They only desired that people, who readily believed everything to their disadvantage, would come and examine into the social state existing in these islands. I mention this because I never met with an instance in which the plan- ters exhibited the least reluctance in having their system of labor thoroughly examined, but on the contrary gave full and f/ee permission to any one to investigate and as- certain the state, condition, and treatment of the slaves. My friend's estate is about six miles from Bridge Town, and is thus mentioned by Captain Alexander : > *' J spent one day at a most charming residerice, Vaucluse, on a high epot, delightfully cool, commanding extensive views. The proprietor said that some Moravian Brethren had established themselves in his neighborhood, and that those of his negroes who attended the instruc- tions of that excellent fraternity, were extremely sober and industrious. His butler had lately died, and he gave him a handsome funeral, for he had served him faithfully for many years, and the master was anx- ious to testify his respect for his servant. Shortly after this, a healthy negro refused all food, lay with his eyes open, and gasping as it were for breath; the Doctor could discover jao aliment, and it was conjectured West lndies. 21 that the btitlei s funeral had 80 excited his envy, that he determined to liave a siiniiur one, and to starve himself. Tiie master came in, and said aloud, Mf tiiia negro dies, I mean to throw him into a hole, and bury him with his fuce down.^ It is almost unnecessary to add, that shortly aAer tiiis speech, (he sick took up his bed and walked forth healed." 1 was kindly invited by a respectable planter, Mr. E. L. Hinds, of Westmoreland, on Sunday, January 20th, to pay him a visit, and witness a festival amongst his ne- groes, called Joan and John. It was on the occasion of the birth du/ of his daughter. After a very interesting ride, on arrival at his house, a large building erected since the hurricane, I observed in the forecourt, a group of negroes very gaily attired, many of them decorated with tasteful and pretty ornaments, dancing with the greatest agility, animation, and lightheartedness, and exhibiting too, great elegance and precision in their steps. 'Ihe music they adopt is of their own construction, one man sings, shaking at the same time a calabash half filled with the berries of a shrub called the English Plantain, ansvvering the pur- pose of shot ; another playing an instrument like a tam- bourine, and forming together admirable concord, from their well regulated discord. The negroes generally evince a great fondness for music, and readily acquire a good knowledge of it. They continued to arrive In groups the whole afternoon, all of them well, and many of them handsomely dressed. The scene was one of unusual ani- mation, their recreation and amusement joyous in the extreme, and altogether unsullied by that riotous intem- perance, and Qisgusting inebriation, which so often dis- figures and disgraces the peasantry of England at their rustic wakes and fairs. They handed round both cake and wine of their own making; and fruit in trays, they were very excellent. Indeed it was altogether a very gratifying spectacle, and one I little expected to witness w^ ^*im ■'^."'j "-^rt ', "WBVJy5«W»?^ -^TT^-^^, -ww; ^s^r' I 22 WEST INDIES. when I left England. That this dance should take place on Sunday afternoon, will ajipear objectionable to some, but 1 cannot help thinking that the Sabbath should be as well a day of recreation as of devotion : and that after the performance of those religious exercises due from the crea- ture to the Creator, that it is not only blameless and lawful, but useful and expedient, that the remainder should be enjoyed in innocent diversion. The Mosaic Sabbath commenced on the eve of the sixth day, and continued until the eve of the seventh, "the evening and morning were the first day." The Church of England, in observ- ing the first day of the week as the Christian Sabbath, agrees with the Church of Rome, and observes equally with that Church, the respective eves or vigils of different festivals. She has her Easter Eve — Christmas Eve — Whitsun Eve — and it would not be derogatory to her character for devotion, and piety, if she permitted the ex- ercise of rational and innocent recreation after the after- noon service of the day was ended. A Rector residing in one of the villages of Herefordshire, assured me that he had tried the experiment, and found it attended with the happiest effects. On the 9th of February I dined with the officers of the St. Andrew's militia, at their new Mess House erected near the sea, in the veiy centre of a rude and highly romantic country, called Barbadian Scotland. After leaving Vaticlusc, and passing through a richly wooded and very picturesque glen, called Porey Spring, where in the midst of the rudest and most grotesque rocks, trees of every fimtastic shape are beautifully inter- mingled, we continued gradually ascending, until arriving at the summit of a mountain, near Mount Hcllaby, the whole of Barbadian Scotland suddenly bursts on your astonished view, exhibiting in its extent every species of romantic scenery, mountain after mountain rising above v'!'; WEST INDIES. 23 f ach other, and retiring with majestic grace in spiral chalky rocks to the sea shore. In many parts of tiiis luxuriant picture, where the eye is ever bewildered in the choicest beauties, and wanders with delight over the startling irregularity of its hills and dales, rude unbroken strata of rocks lean in various di- rections, over dells of exquisite beauty, adorned with thick foilage, which in this clime is produced from a very thin coat of soil. It is in the recesses of this woodland solitude in which the witching charms of this romantic re- gion operate most forcibly on the mind. Over this am- phitheatre of hills, flowers of the most beautiful descrip- tion are to be seen, growing in all the rich variety of the most cultivated gardens, and interspersed occasionally in the clefts and in the hollows are to be seen the majestic palm, the magnificent cabbage-tree, the graceful plantain, and small fields of sugar-cane extending from the base to the very summit of the rocks. My friend who had taken me to enjoy this sylvan repast, after having arrived at the Mess House, and introduced me to the officers, kindly preferring my gratification to his own convenience proposed that we should extend our ride, already a very fatiguing one but for the succession of beautiful scenery • presented to our gaze. I was much delighted in recog- nizing, in the Surgeon of the regiment, an old friend and fellow student at the Borough Hospitals, and received from him great kindness and attention. We rode along the sea-coast several miles, enjoying on the one side the prospect of a rude, romantic chain of mountains, wild and intimidating, of the most fantastic shapes and forms, and linked in stern confederacy, exhi- biting a noble elevation : on the other, a bold sea of the most lovely blue and of transparent brightness, dashing over huge rocks, and rolling in foaming billows, as if a ^'WTTWJf' 24 WEST INDIES. I succession of waterfalls graced the shores. We returned by a different route, the road wild and precipitous in the extreme, sometimes running almost in a perpendicular di- rection over the beev ajg heights, sometimes contracting itself into a narrow and dizzy pathway, or even an abyss of appalling depth, and not unfrequently leading to passes so completely hemmed in, and overhung by masses of im- pending rock, as by obscuring the light, gave it an ap- pearance of gloom and awe. It terminated however in the exhiliratingview of the rich valley in which the Mess House was situated. On our reaching the Mess House, • e set down to a sumptuous dinner, at which the Colonel of the regiment, a most hospitable and benevolent gentle- man presided. His brother officers were most agreeable and entertaining companions, nor can 1 omit to mention Major Morris, a venerable gentleman, whose inexpressi- ble benignity of countenance, and courteousness of de- meanour, cannot readily be forgotten by those who have had the pleasure of meeting him. This corps is established for the protection of the island, against any rebellion of the slaves, every free person in the island, between the ages of sixteen and sixty, are considered eli- gible, and must s ;rve or find a substitute. 'J his efficient force, which meets in the different Parishes, once monthly, throughout the island, has succeeded in preserving the most perfect tranquility, by th-? salutary awe which it has inspired. In the afternoon, I saw the funeral of a negro woman, the long procession winding along the mountain's brow had a solemn, yet picturesque effect. The mourn- ers were all very decently attired in black. On the fol- lowing day, the most of the party met at a Maroon at the ruins of Col. Forte's house, destroyed by the hurricane. A great battle was fought with Cocks, the scene was Ho- garth's to the very life ; the intense interest excited by it, who negro itain's lourn- le fol- at the B'icane. s Ho- byit, WEST INDIES. 25 can hardly be credited. On the 13th of February I paid tiiy promised visit to my friend, Dr. Ifil, at his residence called Mangrove Lodge, near Bridge Town. The house is one, of the few, that in a great measure escaped the de- structive fury of the hurricane; it is beautifully embosom- ed in trees; round the house is a fine grove . of lignumvitae trees, and immediately in front, a most magnificent um- brageous mangrove tree, the branches of which, stretch- ing to the ground, have taken root, and form a beautiful arcade round the parent'tree. 'J he house is named after this stately and majestic tree. On the 19th of February I breakfasted at Reed's Bay, between Hole Town and Speights. 'I he road from Vaucluse is on a gradual de- scent to Hole Town, and from thence the road runs by the sea shore to Reed's Bay. The ride is extremely pleas- ing, through a well cultivated district, and a melancholy interest is imparted to it, by the vast number of trees which the hurricane blew down and broke in every di- lection, shooting forth afresh in all the bloom and vigour of youth, in all the rude and grotesque varieties of growth, of which a tree is capable. This is more especially ob- servable in the cocoa-nut tree, manifesting its native at- tachment to the soil, for in many instances, where it was broken off at the root, some of its fibres have again struck into the earth, forming a new tree, at the end of a long lifeless trunk, making a striking contrast between lifeless- ness and life. The extreme heat of the day induced me to taste, for the first tirnc, the water of the green cocoa- nut. It contains an agreeable acid, and forms a delight- ful beverage, well calculated to slake the thirst induced by tropical heat. After breakfast wc drove on to Speight's Town, on the west coast, and p place of considerable im' portance, and although the ride was rendered somewhat oppressive from the dazzling whiteness of the sand upon 4 I IfUIH". iif>iiii,iijmaMiD»i.ip '7^ ^K;:"^»i«i » ■ ' I! I ii 26 WEST INDIES. the beach, yet it is one possessing a succession of pleas- ing and picturesque scenery. The sea views, the planta- tions, and the smiling seats which adorn the neighbour- hood, give an air of great cheerfulness to the scene. To the right, a bold range of mountains, completely inter- secting the island, forms a fine sight; and on the left, the sea shining with a sapphire hue beneath the morning sun, and the beach fringed with graceful cocoa-nut trees form- ing a beautiful contrast. Speight's Town is a neat and well-built town, containing some good houses, but still exhibiting the desolating ravages of the last dreadful hur- ricane. The church was a complete mass of ruins. In the garden of Reed's Bay. I observed a beautiful cherry- tree, a species of malpighia, covered with a handsome looking red fruit, which I found was unfit to eat. There are also many fine bread fruit-trees in this neighbourhood; they were then covered with fruit, which is esculent, and answers the purpose of bread. There are some varieties ofgooseberry much employed for a cooling drink in fe- vers. I saw some varieties of the bean growing, trailed over lattice work, forming a beautiful vine, and producing an excellent vegetable. On returning to Vaucluse at night,! perceived something dark across the road; present- ly the gig was stopped by a negro, who said the road was not passable, that it was necessary to take a circuitous route, for the wind which had been very high during the evening, had blown his newly erected house level with the ground. ■.-A>- I -^ I CHAPTER III. v>! On the 23rd of February, Dr. Thomas took me with him to the esplanade and handsome barracks of St. Ann's guarded by a formidable battery placed at one extremity of Carlisle Bay. The parade «;round is really a magnifi- cent level, consisting of several acres of land where the trooj)^ exercise. In the erection of these barracks every possible attention has been bestowed to render them healthy, cool, and as comfortable as the climate will per- mit. We drove on lo a little sea bathing village called Worthing, \n here the invalids from Bridge Town resort far health and bathing; it is a pleasant spot. We passed a monument erected to commemorate the unhappy vic- tims oi the hurricane, who perished in the barracks, and whose remains were interred at that place. The shore of the sea is still thickly indented with cocoa-nut trees, al- though huge prostrate trees, and immense roots turned up, exhibiting awful evidences of the horror of the storm, are strewn with a melancholy profusion in every part. — There is a wild grape, indigenous to the island, called the sea grape, growing abundantly in this neighbourhood; — the splendid palm, and the beautiful, though deadly, manchinell are here in numbers, and form, by their beau- ty and variety, a great ornament to the little bathing place called Worthing. We returned round the Bay, over a most miserable bridge, through a part of Bridge Town, and drove to Dr. Cutting's to breakfast. 1 stopped with Dr. Cutting some days; he is truly a most intelligent phy- sician, and seems as devoted to the interests of science, as to the prosperity of Barbados, He is greatly esteemed by all classes of the people. He possesses an excellent ■^w»w»i' ' 'ym f'i 28 WEST INDIES. museum of natural curiosities, consisting of great varie- ties'of shells, minerals, geological specimens, dried moss- es, fungi, insects, stuffed birds and other specimens of na- tural philosophy, together with a well selected library. — His house may be termed a fine mansion, surrounded by a delightful garden, wherewith the greatest care and in- dustry he has collected some choice botanical varieties, and several beautiful English shrubs and flowers. He has also little reservoirs of water in which he preserves some fine fish. His house is rendered extremely cool, by its spacious rooms, being well protected by a deep veran- dah. On the 26th of February I dined and spent the day with Mr. Hevvett at his estate called Bloomsbury, in the immediate vicinity of Scotland. The road winds round the skirts of Vaucluse estate, and commands a fine pano- ramic view of the delightful and highly cultivated slopes of St. George's, St, Thomas', and St. Michael's Parishes. After passing round several fields 1 came suddenly on a deep ravine, the descent of which was by a very narrow and precipitous path, formed like steps; ponderous crags almost over canopy part of the way, tremendous masses of broken rock hanging over itin azizzag manner, from which many varieties, of trees and shrubs, and flowers were growing, turning it from the character of savage de- solation, into that of rude, romantic beauty. Here I saw the native bearded figrtree, from whence Barbados de- rives its name. The branches of this tree hanging pen- dent from a huge rock, and throwing out numberless small threads or filaments which continue growing until they reach the ground, they then strike root. Thus from one branch of the original tree, many other trees are formed, and this is termed the beard of the fig. The] rocks in this gulley have, decidedly, a stalactitical form. This romantic ravine, the scene of many a rendezvous, is term- WEST INDIEi. 29 cd from that circumstance Social Rock. Stupendous de- rlivities, clustering groves, tangled pathways, and flow- ery retreats surround you on every side. The unbroken solitude and overawing gloom of this diversified defile, rendered it an excellent spot for a maroon party. The huge rock termed Social, hangs pendent from the highest over-hanging brink, out of which several trees are grow- ing, forming a spacious canopy, an effectual screen from the sun, and a perfect protection from rain. In many of these deep gullies muffled as they are in the luxuriant drapery of tropical shrubs and trees, and ren- dered almost inaccessible, many runaway negroes have remained secreted for years, baffling and defying every search made for them ; the militia have been compelled, sometimes, to go out in exploring parties to ferret them out, an object of great danger, difficulty and exertion. After diverging from the gully at the opposite side, passing some trees, called the red bean tree, covered with the most brilliant crimson flowers, the whole of Barbadian Scot- land suddenly bursts on the sight, and with the fine, bold blue sea beyond it, forming a splendid coup d'oeil. The view on each side was a perfect picture of itself, greatly heightened and improved by the contrast ; the sweeping and richly cultivated slopes of St. George's extending to Bridge 'J'own, the picturesque appearance af the distant town with the shipping in the bay, opposed to the rude, rocky and sylvan character of Scotland, the lofty and the gentle feaUnes of the scene blend harmoniously together. I saw all the fine vieu s in the island, but this appeared to me the most interesting by far, as the bold, varied and rugged features of Scotland are seen to much greater advantage, when contrasted with the soft, richly cultivated swells, and more polished country in the opposite direc- tion. The sea breezes which perpetually blow over the J do WKST INDIES. *f island, rcnclcis the ride most agreeable, because it is gen- erally cool. The east wind is that which prevails here, and indeed is almost the only one that blows. Happily for the inhabitants, it brings with it a freshness that enables them to resist the burning rays of a perpcndicidnr sun. The cool breezes from the east, commence about three o'clock in the morning, and become stronger as the sun approaches the zenith. This phenomenon is doubt- less attributable to the action of the sun on the atmosphere, the rarefication of which by that planet in its course from east to west, occasions a current of air in the same direc- tion. The sun set of this evening was exquisite, the tops of the mountain, seen from the valley, seemed tinged with a pale crimson, while the distant sea, seen through the vista, in the hour of its reposing beauty, and hushed in the calm of the evening, appeared gleaming like "a sea of jasper strewn with celestial roses." I never beheld a grander spectacle. February 27th, breakfasted with the Hon. N. Forte, the Speaker of the House of Assembly, at his house on 13ennett's estate, the ride to which embraces a view of the sea the entire distance. It is a very charming residence, admirably adapted for the climate ; a beautiful avenue of trees has been recently planted along the road leading to the house. On the 28th I again passed the day at Reed's Bay, and returned by moonlight along the coast. There is in all countries a charm in the chaste and subdued light of a moonlight scene, but it is more peculiarly fascinating in a tropical climate, its soft silvery hues contrasted with the dark foilage of the palm and cocoa nut trees, and shedding a silvery lustre over a beautiful expanse of sea, renders it doubly attractive. It seemed as if on this evening •| WEST INDIES. 31 from opening clouds, I saw fnieige The loveliest moon that ever silvered o'er, A shell for Neptune's goblet. It is certainly tlangerous in Europeans to expose them- selves incautiously at moonlight, from the very heavy dews which take place, but although imprudent, it is almost irresistible, it imparts such a grateful coolness to the system, and steals over the senses, after enduring the scorching rays of a vertical sun. The ruins of Hole Town exhibited a very curious picture by moonlight — broken rafters — heaps of stones — walls partly standing, resem- bling rocks — stumps and limbs of trees — new houses- houses in progress of erection —and as the moonbeams fell, imparting every variety of light and shade, the effect was romantic and picturesque. , , *'Huw beautiful this Night ! the balmest sigh Which vernal zephyrs breathe in Evening's ear, Were discord to the speaking quietude That wraps this moveless scene. Heaven's ebon vault. Studded with Stars unutterably bright. Through which the Moon's unclouded grandeur rolls, Seems like a canopy which Love had spread. To curtain her sleeping world. Yon gentle hills, Robed in n garment of untrodden snow ; Yon darksome walls, whence icicles depend So stainless, that their white and glittering spears Tinge not the Moon's pure beam ; yon castled steep Whose banner hangeth o'er the time-worn tower So idly, that wrapt Fancy deemeth it A metaphor of Peace — all form a scene Where musing Solitude might love to lift Her soul above this sphere of earthliness ; Where Silence undisturbed might watch alone. So cold, so bright, so still." Went round to Col. Forte's house: he is a well informed and most hospitable man, precisely the character fitted for a Speaker of a public Assembly, possessing great patience, liberality, impartiality, knowledge, united with a most 32 WEST INDIF.S. courteous deportment. He is so devofedly altfiched to Barbados, thnt he hns never quitted the island, even tor a day, and from his long residence and general Intelligence, he has acquired a practicnl knowledge of the Colony, anincncfi nblancc I ; there s point. a bund - itility in )r negro Etn trace 3 accur- e — their iemence ^ char- ss, and Its and gst the a great en they eir un- y make rovides ey cer- )yment. jsit one 3ep and ited in on the WKST INDIES. side of a steep hill, upon an estate called Walk's. The great abundance of rock here is very remarkable ; the roads are carried through deep ravines, and the sides of the rocks being cnibcilished with stalactitical columns, renders their app'carance very singular and striking. Amid the crags of the rocks, trees are constantly jutting out : and the beauty and profusion of the wild flowers aston- ishing. The entrance to the cavern is difficult, being very precipitous and rugged. We were escorted by two guides, who took good care to be well furnished with lights. The huge rock, forming the canopy to the en- trance of the cavern, has a similar appearance to Thorpe Cloud in Dove Dale, Derbyshire. At a short distance from the entrance to the cave, you arrive at a spring of water, boldly gushing from the rock, and continues throughout its subterranean course, forming large pools of water, sufficiently spacious to enjoy the pleasure of bathing. The stream issues through a sinuous and devi- ous course, until, as it is supposed, it disembogues itself into the Indian River near Bridge Town. Amongst the several reasons adduced in favor of this supposition, one is very cogent, that when all the pools and streams of the Island have been dried up in an excessive drought, this river has had its usual full supply of water. The en- trance to the cave is narrow, and requires caution from the number of large stones. It soon however opens to a very considerable height : in many parts of the cavern, the water perpetually dropping and issuing through the rock, forms numberless beautiful petrifactions or stalac- tites, resembling, in their gothic, spiral form?, the roof of a richly carved cathedral. The route of the cavern is by the water, climbing from crag to crag,, the rocks forming a steep bank to this subterranean river, but th6 exertion required in a close cavern, renders an extended survey 6 d I;! 1 84 WE6T IND1E&. difficult and fatiguing. On quitting the cave the whole mass of rock, looking at it from below, is seen to the greatest advantage, for although steep, rugged, and une- qual, it is covered in every part, with beautiful parasitical plants hanging pendent in all directions. 'J he entrance to the cavern is at the bottom of one of those deep and romantic ravines, which intersect the island throughout. After pursuing your way in the cavern about three hun- dred yards, it divides into two courses, one, which is termed the dry cavern, being v^ithout water ; the other, having a torrent of water always rushing through it, being abundantly supplied with i^prings. It is said that a party of gentlemen, who went to visit this cavern, falling over some of the large disjointed stones, their lights became exdnguished, and after groping about in worse than Cim- merian darkness for a length of time, took the wrong direction, and passed into the dry cavern, from whence they issued, after being severely bvuised and scratched by crawling about, and much exhausted, at p considerable distance from the entrance to the cavern, and in a differ- ent ravine. On the 8th of March I accompanied Dr. Ifill to his estate, Haggarts, in Scotland ; the ride to it is extremely pleasing, varied and romantic. It is a continued succes- sion of hill and dale, with a bold sea view to grace the distance. I called on Dr. Harper, in company with Dr. Ifill ; he is an excellent botanist, and accompanied us in a ride over the hills immediately fronting the sea, and pointed out many beautiful botanical varieties. The views from these lofty hills are extremely magnificent, blending in the most delightful variety every degree of hill, dale, meandering strean, beautiful woods and boid sea. On ii. e summits of these hills, my attention was forcibly di- rected to an immense quandty of li:uit growing on a thick WEST INDIES. 33 busli, it resembled, in its appearance, the Orlean plum, having the same rich, purple bloom, but unlike that deli- cious fruit, its taste is very insipid — it is termed the fat pork fruit. I again dined at the Mess House, with the officers of the St. Andrew's Regiment, and received from them the same warm hospitality 1 had met with on a pre- ceding occasion. On the 9th, I accompanied Dr. IfiU to his estate, Harrisons, in the parish of St, Lucy's. We passed over several deep streams of water in Scotland, rushing with great impetuosity, the currents having been much swollen by heavy rains. On an estate, called Cle- land's, near to the Scotland signal post, is a most mag- nificent avenue of cabbage trees, which, from their lofty situation, and stately form, presents a striking and majes- tic appearance — "the finest display of these tufted princes of the vegetable kingdmn, these living Corinthian columns that could be found any where in the Antilles." On passing over this hill, all traces of Scotland are lost, and the rich champaign country of St. Lucy's, with the sea of the northern coast of the island, are seen to great ad- vantage. ■ J: ■ . US in , and views iding dale, On ly di- thick CHAPTER IV. St. Lucy's appears to be a well cultivated parish, pos- sessing a very fertile soil, and containing several fine houses. We passed many fields of sour grass, of excellent growth, and then ready for the scythe. From this grass hay can be made three or four times a year, it requires but one day to make the hay when the grass is ready, and 36 W£St INDIES. two or three good rains cause a crop. I did not observe it*yrowingin any other part of the island, with the excep- tion of St. Philip's parish, and at Sir Charles Smith's, U. E., who had a large stack of hay from his cultivation of it. I suppose that the cane is too valuable a crop to per- mit its being superseded by any other. On the lOlh, 1 went to survey the north point of the island, called the Great Head, from whence ships homeward bound take their departure. It is an iron bound coast, the sea very deep, and the rocks extremely precipitous and rugged. There are immense quantities of fish close in the shore, and numbers of racoons and monkies infest the gullies. Dr. Ifill had kindly invited Dr. Bishop — anotlierof my fellow students from the Borough hospitals — a young man of great i jmise from his extensive acquirements, anDinted, and overhanging a deep, roaring, tempestuous tVEST INDIES. 37 sea, the spray of which almost touched njy feet, as I per- formed the perilous undertaking. On entering the first cavern, my attention was arrested by a deep, large natu- ral basin, in the centre of which was a huge stone, resem- bling a round of beef; it was honored with the appellation in consequence of the similitude. In this cavern are sev- eral large pools of water, in which it is customary for the visitors to bathe. On emerging from it to proceed to the second and larger cave, the route is over a rock still more precipitous and rugged than the former ; it is termed the ho;^es -k, the centre part being rounded, the footing i» secu*cu oy the sharp terminating points of the rock. In this cavern there is a large basin of water, presenting a most beautiful appearance. The floor appears in a rich variety of colors, resembling a Turkey carpet, arising from the crypty-gamous plant, with which these rocks abound. It is in this cavern, where the animal flower grows so lovely, and exquisitely pencilled, and greatly similar to the passion flower. I think it is a species of the gorgonia. There can be no question that it is a zoophyte. Captain Alexander thir fvtaks of it : "There is a rock with beau- titul varieties «' ched to it, of that remarkable zoophyte, the hydra— tlr a pear like petals of the marigold, of purple, yellow, anc; green colours, to attract the insect prey, but when touched, they contract and become invisi- ble. This remarkable production forms the connecting link between the animal and vegetable kingdoms of that extraordinary gradation, or chain of beings proceeding from the molest unorganlzea matter up to man." With some wind ^he wat'^r of the sea rolls with resistless fury into these cuvan^, and a person bathing in one of their natural basins might be swept out, unless they were cau- tious. The sea beneath is very deep, large sharks coming immediately below the cavern. Mareh 16th, rode to the 38 WEST INDIES. signal post in St. George's Parish, called Gun hill. The road from Vaucliise estate to St. George's is through a deep ravine. Vaucluse received its name from its present proprietor having seen it, the first time, from this glen ; and being then in a very bad state of health, and looking forward to it, as a retreat, from its beautiful and salubri- ous situation, environed with hills and embosomed in trees ; he thought it no inappropriate cognomen, to give it the name of Petrarch's favorite rrp^f The country here is deemed the most rich and feri. i the island, it consists altogether of undulating slopes, covered with canes, corn, and sweet potatoes. Every patch of land is carefully cultivated, and its returns are most extraordi- nary. On the 17th went down very early in the morning to Hole Town to bathe ; saw a very curious fish called the Ink fish, which, on striking it wit'i a whip, threw out a jet of black fluid greatly resembling ink, it discolored the water considerably. It would seem to be an instinc- tive method of self defence, as by darkening the wafer it eludes its pursuer, and effects its escape. There is a great quantity of fish caught on this coast, the grouper, the snapper, the rock hind, the kingfish, the sweet lip, the Spanish mackarel, the progey, the grivilli, ^. &c. On the 1 8th I was afforded an excellent opportunity of witnessing the spectacle of a negro funeral. On reaching the house, I observed several long forms covered with mourners, all most decently and respectably clad in black. Many females were also assembled in black crape dresses, with black bonnets and veils. Groups of negroes contin- ued arriving for an hour; at length a large party having congregated, they formed themselves into a procession. They had an abundance of fruit, cake, wine and refresh- ments. The hearse, a sort of funeral car, drawn by a black horse, containing the coffin, which was covered wi*h WEST INDIES. 39 small ornaments, and surmounted by a large pall, went first : then the mourners followed, forming a parade, two by two, carrying umbrellas, and exf^nding a long dis- ta ice : the procession was closed by two mourners on hoiseback. The whole appearance was decent and res- pectable, and resembled more the funeral of a wealthy tradesman, than a slave. There is no characteristic more strongly marked in the negro than their superstitious ven- eration for the dead, and it is impossible to pay them a higher compliment, or please them more, than by attend- ing the funeral of any of their deceased relatives or friends. They manifest a great desire to have their friends buried in the same church-yard with their white brethren, and are very grateful in obtaining that permission. ' ■ On the 20th went to dine with Mr. Thomas, who man- ages many estates in the island, at an estate called Strachan's in Barbadiap Scotland. The property be- longs to Mr. Caldecoit: —the house presents only the ap- pearance of a heap of ruins; it stood in a very delightful situation. A lofty hill immediately at the back, screening it from the scorching beams of the morning sun : below it a very deep, precipitous, and most romantic glen, at the bottom of which the Scotland river meanders over a .bed of huge stones; whilst immediately opposite, a large wood, extending from the summit of a mountain down to the very edge of the river, clothed with every variety oi beautiful trees, —the mammoe-apple — the clam cherry— the bay tree, — the cabbage palm — the locust— the bullet — the cedar — the mahogany — and the rich and magnificent silk cotton-tree. Throughout the wood, the vine of the water lemon hangs pendent from the trees in every di- rection, adorned with the most lovely flowei's, and bear- ing a delicious and cooling fruit. The side view is very rich, varied, and extensive, the distant blue sea with its V& WEST INDIES. beautiful white spray dashing on the beach, seen through the vista of a bold range of hills — the winding Scotland river terminating in a lagoon near the sea, renders it a ve- ry picturesque scene. On this estate are several tar springs which I examined; there are several pools made to contain water in those parts where this bituminous ex- udation issues from the earth: the green naptha rises to the surface, and is skimmed off to be preserved in jars for exportation. On this property alone upwards of five hundred gallons of naptha is collected annually, and forms an article of great value. There are also many fine beds of pines growing in this neighbourhood ; the red argilla- ceous earth of Scotland seems particularly adapted for their growth and cultivation The scite invariably se- lected for a pine plantation is a western aspect, on the side of a hill, in order that they may receive the benefit of the afternoon sun. They have a beautiful appearance, and are greatly esteemed for their exquisite flavour. 'J he aictivity of the negro is truly astonishing : I beheld a re- mark ib'e instance of it this day. Mr. Thomas had oc- casion to send a negro boy to Bridge Town, a distance of twelve miles from this estate, and a very hilly and fa- tiguing country to travel. 'I he day was» intensely hot, without a breath of air. The lad started a little before eight o'clock in the morning, and to my great astonish- ment, returned a little after two in the afternoon, with his tray on his head, and seemed so regardless of his journey as afterwards to wait at dinner, and actually volunteered to take a note to a neighboring estate, three miles distant, during the afternoon. I rode back in the evening over Mount Hellaby, which is the highest land in the island, about 1200 feet above the level of the sea ; but although the view is very commanding and extensive, embracing a rich variety of land and water scenery: it is not equal to WEST INDIES. 41 that from Hackleston's CliiT and several other places in the island. From the appearance of many parts of Scot- land, Dr. Maycock entertains the opinion, that it is the crater of an extinguished volcano. On the 22ud, whilst at Hole Town, enjoying my morning's bathe, a haul of fish was drawn up, amongst them one called Chubb, of the most splendid color. The head and tail have the yellow, blue, scarlet, and green beautifully intermingled, like the plumage of a parrot. It is not much esteemed for eating. On the 23d of March, Mr. Martindale, a gentleman of great respectability, at whose house I had. breakfasted, was obliging enough to take me with him to see the vari- ous objects of interest and curiosity to be seen at Bridge Town. It extends, at least, two miles round Carlisle bay. and is about half a mile in depth, containing upwards of 20,000 inhabitants. In the centre there is a square with a statute of the illustrious Nelson. The first place which I visited was the new Gothic Chapel of St. Paul's, then in progress of erection, completed I should suppose long ere this. The architecture is of the purest Gothic, and reflects great honor on the builder. It promises to be, when finished, an elegant, light, commodious, and beauti- ful chapel. It is most admirably constructed for full ven- tilation, and will accommodate, with convenience, a thou- sand persons. I should suppose that it is intended to be surmounted and ornamented with a cross, in conformity with the fashion, lately introduced in England, in the erection of the new churches and chapels belonging to the establishment. I went from St. Paul's to see a large Watering Place in the Bay, belonging to Mr. Martindale, and which has been in the possession of his family for many years. It consists of two very commodious reser- voirs, supplied by an excellent spring, yielding abundance of wsuer, of a very superior quality. It supplies all the 6 42 WEST INDIES. iti shipping in Carlisle Bay with fresh water, and a spot more conveniently adapted for that purpose could not have been selected. The long trough, used for the purpose of conveying the water into the ships, leads from the main reservoir, which is built with stone, it is conveyed by means of a large pipe into this reservoir, from the one which receives the water, as it exudes from the spring. The water is carried into this trough by the aid of a windmill, which, when set in motion, draws it up, and altogether supersedes the necessity of pumping and manual labor in supplying the various ships. Indeed this method of drawing up water is of general use in the island, even far the purpose of sugar making, distillation, bathing, &c. &c. I next proceeded to visit the Alms House, a quadranglar range of buildings, erected and supported by the benevolent gentlemen of Bridge Town, for the purpose of succouring and sheltering the poor, indigent, aged, and disabled white inhabitants, who have no means of maintaining themselves. Seamen, thrown €ut of employment, or who have been maltreated,also find here a most comfortable asylum. There were thirty-five poor individuals receiving the benefits of this great charity, there are sometimes between fifty and sixty. They are provided with food, shelter and clothing, and a medical gentleman is in ready attendance. It is altogether a most honorable and highly creditable institution to the gentle* men of Barbados, who contribute very cheerfully, £2,000 per annum to support it. Immediately contiguous is a lunatic asylum, also upheld by voluntary contributions, and under the same surveillance and superintendance as the alms houses ; there were 'but three cases in it. One, a case of melancholy madness, a white woman about forty, her countenance was very mild and rather pleasing. She was perfectly harmless, her aberration was priHcipally dis- WEST INDIES. AS played by her religious visions, phantoms, and dreams. At one time she was inspired — a prophetess — then an angel— alternately filled with hope, and plunged in des- pair. Her head was much elevated at the middle lateral parts of the coronal suture. The posterior portion of the head was small. Another female, a mulatto woman, a complete fury, breathing hatred, vengeance, and destruc- tion against every one, presented a far different configura- tion, being very broad above the ears, with a low, retiring forehead. She was in a violent paroxysm, when I saw her, and was obliged to be placed under restraint. The third case was that of a white man, apparently about fifty, very morose, ill tempered, and taciturn, but in no respect dangerous. He possessed great mechanical powers, con- stantly sketching on the walls of his cell, architectural designs — churches, bridges, mills, &c. His forehead was weH developed— the lateral portion of the head full— -the eyebrows lofty and prominent. Near to this asylum there were growing four beautiful trees, in the highest perfection, called the May-pole Aloe. The trunk is of the most delightful green, and although straight and tapering, seems divided into regular scales. They somewhat re- semble a branched candlestick ; the branches have a grace- ful curvature, coiling round in serpentine folds, and sur- mounted by a richly tufted yellow flower of a spiral form. They are upwards of twenty feet in height, ; the Botani- cal name is the Agave Americana. I visited the national schools next, which are conducted here in a very superior manner. The whole of the arrangements are admirable, every attention is paid to the improvement and moral culture of the children, whose decent; healthy, and cheer- ful appearance, respectful demeanor, and becoming de- portment, are alike testimonies equally honorable ; the supporters of this interesting establishment, as to those ■ 44 1V£8T INDIES. who participate in its benefits. 'J here are now receiving instruction in these schools, 218 children — 127 boys — 91 girls — all of them are fed during the day, 86 arc boarded and live altogether within the walls. Their school rooms, dormitories and galleries are cool and spacious, and arc inspected by a committee, in whose hands the whole ar- rangement of the establishment are placed, so eminently deserving the attention of the true friends of this ancient and most loyal Colony, as its ultimate safety, happiness, and prosperity will in a great degree depend on the now rising generation. Their present gratifying appearanee and condition holds out a happy prospect and bright au- gury for the future. The year's expenditure from March 1831, to March 1832, was £1838 7 6. In Bridge Town there are soup rooms, supported by charitable individuals. Soup tickets are distributed to poor and necessitous persons, who, on presenting them, are supplied with it gratuitously. The cathedral ot St. Michaels is a fine, large building — the roof is a magnifi- cent piece of architecture, unsupported by any pillar. The chancel, with the Bishop's throne, forms a very hand- some termination. The galleries are spacious ; immedi- ately beneath them, and surrounding the interior of the church, are a great variety of monuments, brought at different times from England, some beautifully (inishedt and fine specimens of sculpture. Previous to the hurri- cane of 1760, this church had a lofty spire, on the summit of which was placed a huge brass figure of St. Michael, the archangel with a trumpet at his mouth. Both from its great elevation and colour, it formed a conspicuous land mark, and was seen many miles distant at sea, more especially when illuminated by the reflection of the sim. It has not received a place on the present tower, a more secure position than the former spire. St. Mary's church WEST INDIES. 45 is also Q ^ne and spacious building. The Jews have erect- ed a very handsome Synagogue ; it was opened with great solemity and pomp during my temporary residence at Barbados — the fashion of the island attended on the occasion. It was a fine spectacle. . ••■-..') 1 he next place I went to see was the gaol, a large building, with a spacious court around it, and surrounded by a wall. One half of the building is appropriated for holding the court of Grand Session — rooms for the grand and petit jury — his Majesty's council chamber— and the general assembly : the other half is used as a prison, where debtors, convicted felons, and prisoners waiting for trial are all confined. I saw the negro, Robert James, in confinement, whose outrage on a white female had excited such an intense feeling. Nothing could exceed the excitement introduced by the President's remission of the extreme penalty of the law ; the people were almost provoked to follow the example of Edinburgh at the exe« cution of Porteous. The man had attempted to make his escape : he was then heavily ironed, and appeared a desperate and abandoned criminal. The inhabitants of Bridge Tov/n have erected a solid, handsome pier of con- siderable elegance and strength : it is frequented as a promenade, and secured from heavy seas by a large break- water ; it proved of much utility to Bridge Tow n during the last frightful hurricane, and was supposed to have saved several houses from entire destruction. On the wharf, immediately fronting the pier, and in a situation well selected to communicate with the signal post at High- gate, are the Commercial rooms, supported by the merch- ants of Bridge Town, for their mutual accommodation. Books are kept containing an account of every arrival and departure, and indeed of every thing relative to the shipping and commercial interests. Files of the Colonial, 46 VTEST INDIES. English, Scotch, and Irish newspapers arc also preservccL There are two very excellent literary institutions in this town, both possessing very superior libraries, as a refer- ence to the catalogue will testify. The subscribers are extremely kind in giving permission to the visitors to the island, to have free access to their books, charts, ^c. ^c. They can smile at the contemptuous sneer of Mr. Cole- ridge — it deserves no other notice. Mr. Southwell, whose theatre was destroyed in the storm, has just completed another very large and spacious building — it was opened for public amusement, and seemed likely to succeed. Neither the Government House, nor the King's House, are remarkable — they can only be considered good, com- modious buildings. The Bishop of Barbados possesses a most delightful residence, called Pilgrim's, beautifully surrounded by trees ; here, as in many other gardens in the island, are to be seen the scarlet cordia, the crimson hibiscus, the red and orange flower fence, (Pointziana pulcherrima, or Barbados Pride,) the plumeria, the white datura, and whiter amaryllis, the heliotrope, intermixed with beautiful varieties of the mimosa : His situation is very cool, and commands a splendid sea view. CHAPTER V. On Good-Friday, April 5th, I attended the service at the new Moravian Church, lately erected in the parish of St. Thomas, and which had been only opened for worship on the preceding Sunday. The chapel is an at Irish for an WEST INDIES. 47 octagonal building, and has a very neat and imposing ap- pearance: a row of young cabbage trees^ areca oleracea, were just planted, and will form a fine avenue when they attain their growth. It is capable of containing one thousand persons. There were a vast number of negroes present, who seemed to pay great attention, and joined in the exercises of devotion with much apparent feeling of piety. The service consists, principally, in singing hymns, a very acceptable mode of worship to the negroes who are so passionately fond of music; — but between the singing portions of the service they have prayers, preach- ing and reading. The Moravians have also a large school for the instruction of coloured children, and they labour in their vocation most meritoriously. There is likewise anot^ establishment in the parish of St. John. Their teac. ..dregreatly esteemed for their unostentatious me- rits, and as they inculcate most strongly the necessity of industrious habits and virtuous principles, and the merits of good works,they prove useful and admirable instructors of the negro race. On the 7th, I went to Hole Town to bathe and breakfast on fish. There was a fine haul drawn up; nothing can exceed the beautiful variegated colours of the scales of these fish. I remarked one in particular, of the size and form of the sole, of the most brilliant purple colour. The chubbs presented a great varietyofhues, scarlet, green, red and blue, all brilliant and vivid. In the ornithology of this island the variety is not great; the graceful humming bird, the cooing dove, and the chirping blackbird, are the chief. In the month of August, innumerable flocks of cranes, alcatrazes, fla- mingos, snipes, plovers, wild ducks, and gallaceta, resort to the swampy parts of the island. Tents or boxes are erected for the sportsmen, who enjoy abundance of sport without fatigue. 'n V jv LP" * I T|i iin,» V «■!■ w^^iBmat^p ^'WI'PU' I ■! I4.!U|L^I^ .:i ' PI 1 pS 1 -f 1 48 WEST INDIES. • III and about Hole Town, — at Boscobcl — in Scotland, and in many parts to the locwurd of the island, numbers of poor white inhabitants reside, objects of the raillery and vitoperation of those flippant writers, who have adopted the opinions of others, rather than take the trouble of making an investigation thcm-iclves. Mr. Coleridge has thought fit to speak of these persons in ♦he following manner. **ln consequence of the large whiio population in Barbados, there exists a class of people which I did not meet with in any other of the islands. By the laws of the colony every estate is obliged to maintain a certain number of whites in proportion to its extent. These men are called the tenantry, and have an indefeasible interest for their lives in a house and garden upon the respective plantations. They owe no fealty to the landlord; make him no acknowledgment, and entertain no kind of grati- tude towards him. The militia is principally composed of these persons, and with the exception oi that service, the greater part of them live in a state of idleness, and are usually ignorant and debauched io the last degree. They will often walk half over the island to demand alms, and if you question them about their mode of life and habits of daily labour, they stare in your face as if they were ac- tually unable to comprehend the meaning of your dis- course. The women who will work at all, find employ- ment in washing and mending the clothes of the negroes, and it is notorious that in many cases whole families of these free whites depend for their subsistence on the char- ity of the slaves. Yet they are as proud as Lucifer him- self, and in virtu»^ of their freckled ditchwater faces con- sider then?selvss on a level with every gentlemen in their island." It is certainly possible that such a descriptloii may be borne out in some cases, but having visited in ev- ery part of the island for four months, taking the utmost, vm ■MP WEST INDIES. 49 pams to make myself throughly acquainted with it, in its features, fertility, but also in its social condition. I am constrained to say that I think Mr. Coleridge's statement is an exaggerated, overdrawn and unfaithful representa- tion. As far as came within my personal observation, I foimd them, in industrious habits, respectful demeanor, becoming attire, and sobriety, fully equal to any white men, in the same rank and station of life. In all their habitations, and patches of land which they cultivate, he might have discovered the effect of industrious and well regulated inhabitants. And it is a matter of great aston- ishment that they are enabled to work under a vertical sun, the thermometer frequently standing at 90® in the shade, and manage to cultivate their ground and raise ginger, arrow root, cotton, aloes, and cassava : breeding poultry, and produce stock for sale. This indiscriminate censure does not appear to me at all becoming in Mr. Coleridge, and I think that he might have instituted a more thorough investigation than he appears to have done» before ha'^arding such censorious observations. On the 8th i visited another remarkable cavern, called Harrison's, t.fae entrance is in a deep ravine not far from Ellis's estate, Lyon Castle ; it is three yards in breadth, but very low. At a little distance from the entrance it becomes higher, and presents a lofty and beautiful appearance. It has also a stream of water rolling through it, and some capaciou^^ and deep pools : the stalactites are as large and thick as the trunk of a full grown oak, hanging pendent from the roof. Some large and aged stalactites were strewn about the cave, having fallen from their great sixe and weight, in other places they were as yet in embryo, and in course of growth and formation. On the lOlh 1 accompanied Dr. Ifill to visit another of the great natural curiosities of Barbados, called the burning spring. This spring, which 7 60 WEST INDIES. tH^: U constantly emitting a quantity of liydrogen gas, is situ- ated iu the picturesque and cliarming district of Barba- dian Scotland. It is in a deep and sequestered glen of great natural beauty, the sides of which, to the summit of a lofty hill, are covered with trees of the most luxu- riant growth and foliage, forming a wood of a secluded, romantic and sombre appearance. By pouring a quantity of water into the pool, fiom whence the gas is evolved, and passing a lighted torch over the surface, a brilliant illumination is immediately produced and continues some- time. Gas might be collected in close stopper bottles, in «ny quantity, from this pool. The delightful wood, call- ed Turner's Hall wood, is part of the aboriginal forest ; it is the largest in the island : the beautiful sharp pointed Spanish needle, the Bidens pilosa, the graceful vine of the water lemon, the long rolls of the quilled pimploe, pimploe, the cactus tuna, blending with the other tropica) trees, renders this wood a very interesting spot. It pos- sesses all the attraction of the Scotland Scenery, and is ID the immediate neighbourhood of the Naptha springs, pineries, and other beauties of this romantic region. On the 12th I went to visit Codrington College, by vi^ay of Austin^s, a very small village, I believe in the parish of St. Philip ; nothing can exceed the degree of attention paid to the comfort and health of the students, than in the site and erection of this noble building. From the indefati- gable attention of the present worthy principal, the insti- tution affords the invaluable blessing of superior educa- tion to twenty -three students. Surrounded by lofty hills, shaded by fine trees, with a clear running stream, forming a small lake in front, with an unbounded view of the Western Ocean, whose delightful breezes ever blowing health and imparting coolness ; the situation is the most salubrious and proper that could have been selected WEST INDIES. 51 Abiindiiiice of sea eggs are caught on this coast, they are ^ delicious food, and this parish is celebrated by the affecting incident of Inkle and Yarico. Mr. Madden, I am inclined to think, «poke of Barbadoes scenery as tininteresting, without having seen it. / Curiosity induced me to visit a place called Boscobel, named after the place of refuge of King Charles, by some of those families, who left England to escape the murder- ous fury of the regicides of that period. The civil war in England, during the reign of Charles I. caused many peo- ple of peaceable tempers and dispositions to take refuge in Barbados, and the consequent ruin of the King's affairs induced a still greater number, many of whom had been officers of rank in his service, to follow their example. The emigration from England to this island was indeed so great that in 1660, it was computed there were 20,000 Englishmen fled to Barbados. It was not surprising that a spot deemed so sacred, by the noble Cavaliers of that day, should be a favorite name, and from that cir 'im- stance I attribute its being given to this rude and rommuic place. The scenery is extremely wild, commanding an extensive sea view, rude rocks, intersected by awfully deep gullies, abounding in every direction. In one of these is a spacious basin^. into which a stream of spring water is continually running, forming a comfortable and well sheltered pl?iCe for bathings Many poor white fam- ilies live in this neighborhood. I rode to the summit of Bissix Hill, with Col. Rogers — from this spot there is a most splendid and extensive view; the house, blown down in the hurricane, lay a mass of disjointed stones. In the parish of St. Joseph, on Mr. Higginson's estate, a steam engine is employed in the manufacture of sugar, a river called Joei's river, runs through the sugar house, affording a constant supply df water. The view from Sugar HiU 52 WEST INDIES. in this vicinity is also very magnificent. 1 acconipanie(! Col. Rogers to his estate, called Park's, in St. Joseph** Parish — the soil here is uncommonly rich and prolific, and his plantations well worthy of inspection. lie has in one field, five living springs of most excellent water. There Is also at the back and round the house, a beautiful plantation, of that charming tree, the plantain, the fruit of which is delicious. In a circuit of a few miles in this vicinity, all the beauties of the tropics may be witnessed, the fustic tree, lignum-vitae, the cocoa nut tree, the cabbage palm, the fiddle wood, the white jessa- rnin, the silk cotton tree, the sand box tree, the bully tree, the varilla, the quassia, the creeping granadillo, the ota- heitan gooseberry, the hanging water lemon tree, the tam- arind, the sweet smelling acacia, the pomegranate, the stately aloe, the light colored cane, the guinea grass patch, the mangrove, and the graceful and waving bamboo. The dolichos pruriens, whose hairy substance is so cele- brated as a vermifuge, grows indigenously in this island, and it is related, as having proved so great annoyance to the negroes in reaping the canes, that instances have oc- curred in which they have destroyed the crop rather than take it in, in conseqjence of the suffering inflicted by this vegetable tormentcr. Perhaps in the ^»;lobe there is not another spot so well cultivated and so astonishingly fertile as the island of Bar- bados. Its principal production is, of course, the sugar cane, but the planters grow yams, guinea corn, indian corn, eddoes, sweet potatoes, and various sorts of peas. In addition to feeding its inhabitants, a great quantity of yams and poultry are raised and sent to the Leeward Islands : the negroes, on their own grounds, cultivate ar- row root, ginger, cotton, and aloes, for exportation ; and the annual quantity of sugar made is about 30,000 hhds. ii i ua ' tiijini.w waq mm WEST INDIES. 6$ The population consists of about 120,0C0, of which mim- ber there are about 40,000 whites and free colored. Hav- ing had such an excellent opportunity of witnessing the management of an estate, being more or less at Vaucluse, during four months, visiting it at all times and under all circumstances, as I pleased, and by myself; moreover it having been during the period of making the sugar, I think 1 may as safely speak of the subjeet of slave labor, as those who have only read accounts of it, in the rooms of the anti-slavery society, Aldermanbury. This fine estate consists of nearly six hundred acres, and for its cultivation there were more than 300 negroes : 4 masons, 3 carpenters, 3 coopers, 4 domestics, 3 male and 2 female superintendents of the field, 60 field labourers in the first gang, 50 in the second gang, 25 in the third, 8 watchmen, 6 cooks, 2 sick nurses, 11 tending the cattle, calves, &c., 3 tending the goats and pigs, 1 groom, 2 women in charge of children, 115 old infirm people, infants, and young children, and 6 invalids. The quantity of land annually planted in canes about 60 acres, the quantity of canes reaped about 130 acres, the canes springing again, and if well weeded and kept clean, giv> ing a sscond and third crop. There were 80 negro hou- ses, with a separate kitchen to nearly every house; round the house they are permitted to keep pigs, goats, poultry, &c. They have also half an acre of land for their own cultivation. The houses are built and kept in repair by the liberal proprietor of the estate. The hospital on the estate, is a comfortable, roomy, well ventilated building, where the negroes are carefully attended in sickness, or on receiving any injury from accident. A skilful medical practitioner is employed to attend day and night — nurses are provided, who alternately take charge of them, and whatever is ordered by the physician, is at once procured. 54 WEST INDIES. and the hours allotted for their work are from six to s!x» giving out of that time for their meals ; making their aEDOunl of labour nine working hours daily. They have Saturday and Sunday to themselves, and on asking the manager, they are permitted to attend funerals, go to market to sell their own stock. One of the negroes ou tJhis estate, a very industrious man, told me that he had made on ao average £10 per annum, by the ginger and starch he raised from his portion of ground, and that he had amassed more than £100. The morning bell rings at half past four, and at a quarter before six the roll is called over, and they receive instructions for their day's, labour. In addition to the meals which they have, in common, on the estate, they have a weekly allowance of provisions, ten pints of Guinea corn, or thirteen pints of Indian corn. If in roots, yams, eddoes, or potatoes, 30 pounds^ and one pound of salt fish to each negro. At Christmas and in harvest, they are bountifully regaled, and on the other solemn days, they receive permission to abstain from work. It is but justice to say, that 1 never saw such happiness and prosperity amongst any body of labourers, as amongst the negro population of this island. They never felt the hardship of want ; were never dis- tressed by the cares of a starving family and wife ; secure in the possession of a comfortable house ; knew not the misery of seeing their family and children driven from the shelter of their roof^ by the ci'uelty of a creditor, or the hardship of the times, nor doomed to depend on charity for the support of a wTetched existence. These much calumniated planters never insolently assumed that * rfieir country, if they deem it necessary for their security. ^Surely there must have been some error in the fundamen- WEST INDIES. 67 till principle of their government, that **a1I men were by nature free, equal, and independent:" it should have been specially provided, that nothing therein contained should extend to others, than of white skins. An able writei^ has said, *4f to reduce the African to slavery was a vio- lation «f his natural rights, to hold him in bondage one moment longer than is necessary to prepare him for free- dom, is to perpetuate and participate in the injustice.— And what though the sacrifice should be a costly one, and the task of emancipation perplexing and difficult ? Na sacrifice is so costly as the sacrifice of justice and human- ity ; no expectation more unfounded ^nd puerile than that of returning without pain and efibrt, from the dark and devious labyrinths of error. ^'Facilis descensus Averni: Sed revocare gradura superasque evadere ad ^uras, : . Hoc opus; hie labor est. But even if principle did not require the sacrifice, an en- lightened view of self interest would suggest it. If the Gurdian knot be not untied, it will be cut. What honor, what glory, what rbnown, what gratitude have the West India Colonies justly earned for themselves, and acquired! by their ready concurrence with the views and wishes of the Imperial Parliament, in removing from the national escutcheon the foul blot of Slavery ! Before closing my remarks on this lovely island, and its interesting and hos- pitable inhabitants, I cannot forbear noticing its extreme salubrity. In Sinclair's code of Health and Longevity, i^ is stated that in the fearful hurricane of 1780, which kille<^ fifteen people, of that number four were tipvi^ards ot brie hundred years of age, and that one was of the great aig^ of a hundred atnd fifteen. It is the liloSt easterly of the British West Indies, twerity-ofie mileis iti length, arid four- teen in brei^dth, about the sia^e 6/ the Isle of Wight. The 8 i Ml WEST INDIES. cause of its healthful condition, and the many instances of extreme longevity to be met with on every estate, is its free and perfect ventilation by the constant blowing of the trade winds, and that of the purest maritime air. Not overlooking an important fact, greatly influencing the du- ration of life, the general happiness of the negroes, their freedom from all harassing cares about poverty, disease, and helplessness ; and their regularity in food and general sobriety. My excellent friend Dr. Farre, in a very inter- esting journal which he published, gave a statement of the mean temperature of the diflTerent months of Penzance, in Cornwall — of Bonchurch, in the Isle of Wight, — of Madeira and of BUbados. It certainly proved the admi- rable adaptation of Barbados to persons visited with pul- monary disease, and the communication being more frequent, and the accommodations superior, it is worthy of the serious attention of those suffering under that formi- dable malady. It is besides, completely, a British colony : language, manners, feelings, principles all thoroughly, entirely British. On the 15th of April, 1 bid adieu ! to Vaucluse, and in taking leave of the negroes on the estate, I could not, as I told them, wish them either a better or a kinder wish, than they might long be as happy, lighthearted, prosper- ous, and comfortable as they then were. I hope the ines- timable boon,, since conferred on them by the British Government, may realize, in their behalf, all the blessings philanthropy and humanity can desire. I remained two days in Bridge Town before sailing, and took the oppor- tunity afforded me on the morning of the 16th, after bath- ing at Fontabelle, to examine the outlet of the stream of water which it is supposed proceeds from Cole's Cave, and forms the Indian River. All that is certain, is that a copious stream of water there issues from the rocks. 1 » CHAPTER VI. .^•> . V '.\' -^ " •■7/-, '.;.-- • On the 17th we weighed anchor at three o'clock, from CarhsleBay, in a schooner, the Flying Fish ; if celerity could justify the appellation, it was never more properly bestowed. The Captain, a most expert and active sea- man. We went on board at 1 1 o'clock, but were detained by waiting for the new Lieutenant Gc^'ernor of St. Cris- topher's, and his family. The sea was so rough that long ere we had sailed, I was so excessively sick, from the tossing about of the vessel, that I continued to keep on deck, finding the cabin below intolerably hot. Very early in the morning we found ourselves before the Pitons, the sugarloaf mountains of St. Lucia; they are majestic moun- tains, of great height, rising perpendicularly out of the sea, forming a succession of lofty cones. Our vessel was sailing at a great rate, and we speedily made Martinique, running along its southern shores. The rising sun was just emerging from behind the lofty mountains of this fine island. As we continued our way, the mists of the morn> ing gradually disappeared, and exhibited a lovely country, finely cultivated, and surmounted by majestic mountains. We sailed near the Diamond Rock, so justly celebrated as the scene of Captain Morris's gallant achievements during the last war. It was actually a chivalrous exploit, in hoisting up a thirty-two pounder from the topsail yard- arm ot a man of war, and planting it on this perilous crag. The water is very deep between this bold rock and the shore, enabling a ship of the largest size to pass through in perfect safety. The aperture is still to be seen where ''•r'*W!PPWBIFf"»SlPIf iillpiiltiM "P"i'nniiwjjiijBi( 60 WEST INDIES. the gallant Captain slept, and the flagstaff, from which the Union Jack proudly waved, to remind us, that Hearts of oak are our ships, * ^ Jolly tars are our men, W» always are ready, Steady, Boys, steady. To fight and to conquer, again and again. We passed the mouth of Fort Royal harbour, considered one pf ihe most spacious, safe, and convenient in the world. 1 saw the curious pigeon rock, La Ramire, which would seem to be inaccessible and impregnable. The hanging town of S|. Pierre looks very pleasing and inter- esting from the sea. We continued sailing, with a de- lightAil breeze, at a very rapid rate, and quickly saw DominiC|ue with its chain of majestic and lofty mountains. We could distinctly perceive the mills and sugar houses at work, Dominica seemed beautifully wooded. We pass- ed the northern extremity of the island, and before night closed in upon us we breasted the southern point of the rich and extensive island of Guadaloupe. We were becalmed for some little time under the long lee of the high land, the Captain informing us that it was very frequently the case. The following morning by daybreak we were between Antigua and Monteserrat. Monteserrat' presents a fine appearance from the sea ; the breeze fresh-' ened) and wesoop came to a green rock, called Redonda, which was covered with sea birds. From its round and beautiful green appearance, it is a striking and interesting object. As our intention was to land at St. Kitt's, we run in close to Nevis, and really nothing can be more exqrjsite and lovely than this island, viewed from the sea. The top of its huge, magnificent mountain, rising in graceful majesty from it, was enveloped in clouds. For liome distance up the mountain the land was finely cuiti- WEST INDIES. 91 vatcd, and the appearance of the planter's houses, the windmills, the churches, all enlivened and adorned with trees of great beauty and majestic growth, rendered it a most captivating scene. The side of the mountain forms a long slope counecing it, with a long narrow slip of land, extending to St. Kitt's. We dropped anchor off St. Kitt's about twelve o'clock, and really the description of this exquisite island by Mr, Coleridge is so striking and correct, that it would be injustice not to give the account in his words : • .. .; ;t' **Tlie vale of Basseterre, in soflneas, richness, nnd perfection of cuItiv:(tion Burpairaes any thing I have ever seen in my life. Green velvet is an inadequate image of the exquisite verdancy of the cane^ fields which lie along this lovely valley and cover the smooth acclivities of lyionkey Hill. This hill is the southern termination of a range of greatmountains which increase in height towards the qorth, and thicjc- en together in e:'orn^ous masses in the centre ofthe island. The apex of this rude pyrariiid is the awful crag of Mount Misery, which shoots slantingly forwards over the mouth of a volcanic chasm like a peninsula in the air. It is bare and black and generally visible, whilst the under parts ofthe mountain are enveloped in clouds. The height is more than 3700 feet, and is the most tremendous precipice 1 ev^r . beheld." As the people of St. Kitts were making the necessary preparations to receive the Governor, my friend proposed that we should land and see some little of the island. We had a view of Basseterre, a town of considerable size, but looked wretchedly neglected. It has a noble square; where a quantity of fruit of all the tropical varieties were exposed for sale. A number of negroes were collected in this square ; they had come from the country in the morn- ing, expecting that the new Governor had been sent from England to free them — they therefore positively refused to work. They soon discovered the delusion under which they laboured, but they evinced a very bad and refractory 31 62 WEST INDIES. spirit, which soon after the emancipation bill came into operation, broke out into acts of fearful violence and insubordination, rendering it absolutely necessary to take very strong, peremptory and coercive measures to quell their rebellious conduct. Mr. Macquecn was staying at St. Kitts ; we met him at the hotel. He had been visi- ting the various islands, and the planters grateful for his long continued and unwearied exertions in their behalf, g;Tve him grand public dinners throughout his tour. He is unquestionably one of the ablest and most consistent friends of the Colonies, and possesses an immense fund of information relative to them. St. Kitt's had shortly before experienced two shocks of an earthquake, — the church clock had been stopped and was then unrepaired. I had no opportunity afforded me of visiting further than the outskirts of Basseterre, which 1 greatly regretted, as from what I saw of the enchanting steeps, gleaming under a cloudless sky, in all the rich variety of hue, which the beautiful flowers and foliage of the tropics supply, I am convinced of the great attraction of this lovely spot. There is a soft vale by Basseterre whose vivid green ap- pears as if it had never been violated by mortal foot. 'Ihere were several large pelicans flying about the bay. We weighed anchor about four o'clock, and continued sailing close in shore, along the coasts of this witching island, the land seemed every where rich and verdant and highly cultivated : and the neat houses, plantations, churches, windmills, mountains, deep ravines, and ma- jestic trees were all beautifully intermingled, and formed a most delightful scene. The fort on Brimstone Hill, at the southern extremity of the island, is situated on a grim and naked mountain, backed by loftier ones. It appear- ed from the rugged and precipitous steep on which it is built almost inaccessible. It is a large and noble fortifi- idHir? i^p ■ WEST INDIES. , 63 cation of great command and strength, fronted by the coast and the sea. Before night closed in upon us we saw the lofty islands of Saba and St. Eusiatius, they have a noble conical appearance, — they belong to Holland. Very early on Saturday morning, we saw land on both sides of us, the lovely and fertile island of Santa Cruz on our left, and theVirgin-Gordo on our right. We shortly afterwards came in sight of Tortola, St. Johns, and St. Thomas, and at one o'clock cast anchor in the beautiful and well protected harbour of the latter Danish Colony. It is usual to run for the Frenchman's rock, a rude bluff promontory, outside the harbour, and then after passing it, the harbour itself is surrounded by lofty and majestic mountains. The views of the town —-the ramparts — the fortifications — and the signal posts, give the island a no- ble appearance from the sea. The castle built in the Saxon style, with the sentry pacing before the outer door- way, is very well represented in one of the scenes in Charles XII. at Covent Garden theatre. I was much struck with the resemblance. On entering the town it is immediately evident that it is a free port, for although it is under the dominion of the King of Denmark, the flags of every nation are riding in security in the harbour —delighted commerce spreads her crowded sails and the inhabitants of every nation are carrying on their commer<< cial speculations in the streets. *'P(>rthian8, and Medes, and Elamites, and the dwellers in Mesopo- taroia, and in Judea, and Cupadocia in Pontus and Asia. Plirygia, and Pampliylia, in Egypt, and in the parts of Sybia about Cyrene, and strangers of Rome, Jews and proselytes, Cretes and Arabians.'' Our enterprising neighbours, the Yankees, carry on a very great trade with this island. The town itself is built on three hills, rising gracefully from the sea, these again surmounted by very lofty mountains. The country seems III ^Tf^t^^fK^^afmv^H'^mi^^ntfWf-f^ i.iii»L^wmw^!r^^tBMi^li|il.lli I I rgy^y WEST IJNDICS. 64 indifTerently cultivated) and the town is intensely hct. — The houses are well built, and the warehouses or stores are very capacious and commodious, and well filled with every description of goods, from all parts of the world; — their inspection alone is a treat of no ordinary kind;— ~ French, Danish, English, Spanish, ornaments, trinkets, pictures, and manufactures of every variety. The town is lighted by lamps, suspended in the centre of the streetsj four ropes forming a star, fixed from the opposite houses, from the middle of which the lamp is hung. Many of the lanterns are painted in the Chinese form, and look very ornamental when lighted up. In addition to its no- velty, it appeared to me to be an improved method of lighting the streets — the centre as well as the sides being well illuminated, you can see for a considerable distance. The sti-eets have Danish and French names given to them. The troops are a very noble, fine looking body of men ; they perform their various exercises on an extensive level parade ground, immediately beneath a lofty mountain, not far from the town. The date tree, the cocoa nut tree, the tamarind, the sapadillo, the guava, the soursop, the aloe were all growing within a short distance from the town. AH descriptions of religion are tolerated and pro- tected in this island. There are two extensive establish- ments of Moravians— two Protestant churches, (I believe Lutheran) — a Roman Catholic church — and a large Jew- ish synagogue. On Sunday, April 21st, I went to the Roman Catholic church, to mass ; it is a large building, with a beautiful rose wood altar, handsomely decorated with fine paintings, and ornamented with costly images. There was a very numerous congregation, consisting of all classes of persons, and of all countries, white and col- ored, bond and free. It is in an assembly of this kind, ^hat the unity of the Catholic faith is especially observed, !l the 'g» ted |es. of WEST INDIES. 65 pflople of every language uniting together in prayer, with- out the smallest difficulty, assisting at the celebration of that holy and august sacrifice, foretold by the prophet Malachi, to be made from the rising to the setting of the sun. All the stores were open on the Sunday, and the market places were thronged with people. 'J he main market extends a mile along the principal street, but the fish and meat markets are held in one of the side streets leading to the bay. Pine apples, shaddocks, melons, oranges, limes, grape fruit, mangoes, sapadilloes, water lemons, nuts, egg fruit, and plums, were selling at the various stalls. There was a quantity of European vege- tables also for sale, — carrots, turnips, parsley, French beans, &c. A plentiful supply of every variety of fish, which looked very fine : I cannot say asTmuch for the meat; likewise an abundance of poultry, probably firom Barbados, as they send a great deal to the Leeward Islands* The town is' most oppressively hot, lying under a vertical sUH, and screened from the sea breezes in every direction, by the lofty range of mountains which encircle it The Danes bear an excellent character for their kind treat- ment and usage of their slaves. Several that were under punishment for theft, and other ofiences, were working in the road, with a long chain attached to their leg?, con- necting them with each other, and an overseer was super- inteading thetn. In the evening I looked in to the largest Lutheran church, but did not remain long from my unac- quaintance with the language. It seemed to me there was little prejudice generally existing in this island with regard to colour. The coloured and white population were setting in pews together, without any distinction. They have a very large fine troop of free colored men, whom I saw reviewed several times ; although they dii' :j"t, > t »f J VMITEn STATES. "Virtue and Intel! igence~the sheet-anchor of our national unions and the perpetuity of our national freedom." — Extract from a Speech of the present enlightened President of the United States, Andrew Jackson. CHAPTER VII. At three o'clock in the afternoon of 23d, we went on board the schooner, Vernon, for Philadelphia, and weighed anchor at four. A capital breeze attended us out of the harbour, which continued several days, until it increased to a gale, accompanied with violent squalls. At the full of the moon, the sun went down with such an angry appearance, and the clouds flitted so rapidly, as to induce the Captain to take in all sails ; it proved a very fortunate precaution; for shortly afterwards we were struck by a white squall, so called from no other indication appearing, but a white scud on the surface of the waves, which must have sunk the vessel, but for the prudence of the Captain. I was thrown with some violence out of my birth, and went on deck, but the vessel had righted herself immediately. The weather still continued bois' terous and unsettled for several days. On entering the gulf stream we tested the temperature of the water, by the thermometer, several times daily, and found the vari- M ';«w»p»i«i«i JumiflPfii 70 UNITED STATES. ation between it, and the atmosphere, generally ranging from five to ten degrees. The diflference between the temperature of the water of the gulf stream, and that of the sea beyond it, was thirteen degrees. 1 observed a great quantity of weeds in this, stream, some fresh and green, but generally yellow and withered. It was the appearance of these weeds that enabled the great Colum- bus to raise the drooping spirits of his disheartened crew, by pointing them out as a certainty that they were not far distant from the land. There were large pieces of wood constantly floating by us, probably from some uf the American rivers. The little nautilus or Portuguese men of war, were riding about the sea in all directions ; some large, all graceful, and many of varied and extremely beautiful colors. They take in their sails with more ex- pedition, than the American sailors, which is saying a vast deal in praise of their agility and quickness. On May 7th, about seven o'clock in the evening, we approached Finwick's island, the first land we made : the Captain immediately hoisted a signal for a pilot, but we were not so fortunate as to obtain one that night. The wind was then blowing fair and fresh — we were off Cape Henlopen — the Captain put the vessel under easy can- vass. To our great mortification, when day light appear- ed, and we had procured a pilot, we found ourselves ofif Cape May, on the opposite side of the Delaware Bay, wluther we had drifted in the night, and to complete the vexation, it was a perfect calm. Having experienced quite sufficient of the pleasures of the sea, we preferred proceed- ing to Philadelphia by land, rather than by the Dela- ware river, which from its magnitude at its mouth, being twenty miles across, and the grandeur of its splendid t>reak water, seemed to promise us a high gratification. »" UNITED STATES. ! f^ kiumtiby the quatultiesof irun ore which abounds in its vicinity, and sand suitable ibr making glass. It has a large glass factory, Durhamville is an entirely new vil- lage, with several excellent stores, the houses are remark- ably clean and commodious ; there iii a very large iniv named after the place, immediately adjacent to Oneida creek, extending twenty-five miles to the Oneida lake* The canal is iiere carried over the waters of this creek, and |>asses through a most fertile country. It is remark- ably picturesque, and the lands appear of the best quality : the new settlements are progressing rapidly. At a short distance there is an Indian village. Lenox Basin is the next settlement ; there is a good bridge passes over the canal here, and the country on each side seems well set- tled and very fertile. Canastota is a neat, pretty, and flourishing village : there are fine and extensive pastures round it — met here for the first time several Indians — the houses are lofty and well built — the factories appear very flourishing, and the tout ensemble exhibits the appearance of wealth and prosperity. There are four good bridges over the canal, and the roads are represented round this part of the country as excellent. There is a fine large basin here, surrounded by ware-houses. New Boston is a small village, containing few houses, but the land around it is apparently of the finest quality. There is fi^om^ this place a most beautiful hanging wood of bass, elm, maple, hickory, chesnut, hemlock, and oak gracefully fringing the banks of the canal, and extending nearly seven miles. At Chitteningo, the next village, there are several fine houses, spacious inns, two new churches, and excellent farms around it. This is a very fertile and picturesque country. There is a large boat builder's here; under the house is a dock for the repairs and shelter of boats. From this village to Manlius, fine corn-fields, good houses, and ■t- 92 UNITED 9TATE5. large orchards, nre seen on both sides of the cnnal. 1 hrr^ are several hamlets between this and Lime-slonc Creek, a creek, with a fine canal leading to the flourishing and picturesqne village of Orville, a mile and a liaif distant. A splendid grove, of majestic butter-nut trees, fringes the margin of the canal here for a considerable distance. Orville is on the turnpike road between Uiica and Syra- cuse, in the centre of a rich and flourishing agricultural district. Syracuse is a flourishing place and carries on a most extensive trade ; a side canal branches off frotn it to Salina, where the celebrated salt works covering 600 acres of ground are to be seen. The buildings in Syra- cuse are in general of a superior description, and mostly brick. It was only fourteen years before, a forest, now, a handsome and elegant town. The Syracuse Hotel is a most noble brick structure, four stories high: from the cupola at the top is a most varied, extensive, and magnifi- cent prospect, combining the canal, the Onondaga lake, the village of Salina, and a rich agricultural country. This is by far the best route to Canada, by the Salina canal, the Onondaga lake, and the Oswego Canal, to lake Ontario. It is a saving in time, distance, and expense to take this route, in preference to that either by Rochester or Lockport : and any individual who has once experi^- enced the comfort of the Oswego Hotel, and the kindness and attention paid to travellers by Mr. Ives, would never think of proceeding further than Syracuse on the Erie canal, if his ultimate destination is Upper Canada. From here to Jordan, passing by the villages of Geddysburg — nine mile creek, a tributary from the Onondaga lake — Camillus, and Canton, the country is in progress of set- tling, and the growing crops appear very promising. At this village a large and well finished hotel is erected, called Union Hall. Weed's Port is situated in a very fertile »■■/'- "' ^-i** ■' UNITED STATES. 93 dislric'f, rapidly increasing, two very handsome churches have been erected, some fine houses and taverns, and it a])pears a place of considerable trade — the pastures are very luxuriant, and the crops, growing in the midst of stumps, looked very flourishing. At Port Byron there is a most extensive flour mill, turned by a delightful stream, running into the Cayuga lake ; it has ten run of stones constantly at work. At Lake Port there are branch canals diverging to the right and left, to the lakes Cayuga and Seneca. At a short distance before arriving at the head of the Cayuga lake, several long and elegant bridges arc ercctec*, aud here are miles and miles of the finest possible marsh land. After passing over this extensive marsh, the canal winds through abeautilul grove of lofty and majestic button wood trees, very similar to the Eng- lish sycamore. This lovely grove extends three miles, and is as splendid a woodland scene as I ever beheld. The day was most serene and agreeably warm (May 24,) and I was delighted with the exquisite plumage of the scarlet, yellow, and blue birds with which these woods abounded : all nature seemed teeming with life, and ar- rayed in its holiday liverj'. There are three varieties of the blackbird, one, black altogether, beak and feet : ano- ther black, with the exception of some bright crimson in the wings : the third called the bobbylink, with a little admixture of white in his wing ; its notes are so peculiar and diflicult of imitation, that even the mocking bird cannot successfully catch them. Along the bank»of the canal to Clyde, the country is finely wooded with maple, beech, and basswood trees. The canal runs along the side of a small river called the Clyde, on which a new village named after it, has been formed, consisting of sev- eral large and well built houses, with taverns and church- es. The land in the vicinity is extremely good, and the \ s ( \ 94 UNITED STATES. windings of the river, witti its gently rising and prettify wooded banks, renders it a delightful and very pleasing valley. The church is an elegant structure ; there are several good factories, and one glass house of great size. The Clyde river, formed by the outlet of Canandaigua lake and Mud Creek,unite at Lyons, the capital of Wayne county, and one of the prettiest towns on the whole route of the canal. The population exceeds 4,000. It is not possible to conceive a situation more judiciously selected for a town than this. The beautiful low banks of the Clyde thickly studded with butternut and sugar maple trees, of majestic growth, surrounded by fine large orch- ards of the choicest fruit trees — extensive corn-fields and meadows — the canal above it with a noble overhanging wood on its banks — the neat houses and churches of Ly- ons — the well laid out gardens, filled with choice flowers and fruit trees, all conspire to render this town a scene of rural beauty and prosperity not to be surpassed. There is an agricultural and an horticultural society here, and many English and Scotch farmers have settled in this charming vicinity. After leaving this place, there are several small, but increasing villages, but the land becomes swampy; between Bushnell's and Pittsford, the great em- bankment of the Erie canal commences. It must have been a work of prodigious labour, its elevation above the surrounding country, being at least seventy feet. The prospect from it is very extensive. Pittsford is an interest- ing village, surrounded by land of excellent quality, con- taining many large, well built houses, with a church sur- mounted by a spire of extraordinaiy beauty. The inter- vening county to Rochester, a distance of ten miles, is very fine and in progress of clearing. Rochester, in 1812, was a deep forest, the retreat of the wolf and the panther : it now contains a population of more than 14,000 persons, UNITED 9TAT£S. Ml tWL'lve or fourteen churches, many splendid buildings, and a collection of mills and manufactories, scarcely to be equalled in any portion of America. Our boat was weighed at Rochester — the method of weighing isGurious, though sitnple. The boat is conveyed on to the scales by water, the scales being forced below it by the boat — the water is then turned off at a lock, leaving the boat sus- pended on a large stillyard, by means of heavy chai ns. 'Ihe frame work on which this stillyard rests, and to which it is attached, is accurately poised by weights in the opposite scale, bringing it into an exact balance ; the weights superadded give the precise weight of the boat, by which the tolls are regulated. The packet boats on the canal are drawn by three horses, and travel nmch more expeditiously than the line boats which are drawn by two only ; the accommodations arc also considered superior, persons who wish to see as much as possible the country through which they pass, should travel by the latter con- venience, as they can walk on the banks of the canal as they please, and still keep pace with the boat. There are 13 large flour mills at Rochester, with 52 run of stones, making annually 350,000 barrels of flour. Through the kindness of the proprietor, I had an oppor- tunity of examing the largest fiour mill — it has 16 run of stones, and can make 500 barrels of flour daily. The canal aqueduct over the Genesee river, at this place, is one of the most gigantic works on the whole canal line^ There are niany saw-mills, tanneries, and manufactories : indeed the water power supplying the works equally on both sides of the river, is almost as incredible as it is in- exhaustible. One mill covers more than two acres of ground, and fifteen million feet of lumber are sawed here animally. Immediately below the town are the great Genesee falls of 90 feet, extending across the river, which W UNITED STATES. b ofgood breadth. Never having before seen a fall of water of great magnitude, I was quite astonished at the magnificence of the scene, and continued for some time gazins at it in rapturous wonder. At Carthage, two miles distant, there is another fall of 70 feet, surrounded by a romantic country, and the splendid expanse of Ontario in front; Merchandise to and from lake Ontario, forward- ed from Rochester, is raised or lowered down the great and steep descent of the Genesee, by means of an inclined plane, the descending weight raising a lighter one. I The following statement of the mechanical and manu- iacturiag operations of this village are extracted from a Rochester. paper : i^^:^^^'■■; .i.'i*.j;i.x,-i'* -rw r^v^i- ti* - ANNUAL AMOtNT. $,1,331,000. iU '=• l'^ f»- ilXJtl Flouring Mills Cotton do. >'> '^ Woolen do. Leather &c. Iron Works Rifles, &c. Soap and Candles, Groceries, &c. • Tobacco, Pails, Sash, &c. Boat Building Linseed Oil, Glove Factoriei», INVESTMENT. $281,000 . fc 66,000 , 70.000 , 25,000 24,000 .. 3,000 6,000 21,000 .4,500 2,500 11,000 3,0!/ i ,■ . 30,000. 112,000. 166,000. 46,000. 5,000. 45,000. 32,800. 18,000. 12,000. 40.200. 4,000. 15,000. $ 1,857,000. Since completing the account of Rochester from my notes, I have been enabled to add the following more recent account of this verj thriving and important town. ;*iiin FLOURING MILLS AT ROCHESTER. i>« in>i Amid the multitude of machinery with which the Genesse is studded* the flouring establishments are conspicuous. There are now within the city of Rochester twenty-one mills, with ninety-tive runs of stone, capable of manufacturing five thousand barrels per day. Twenty thous- and bushels of wheat are daily required for these mills when in full .operation. The immense consumption of the raw material oecasioncd ^y such aa extensive manufacture, furnishes to the rich wheat-growing I UNITED STATES. V7 rei^io:'! nruuiid Rochester n reujy market, while it draws considerable t«ti|)|)li(;^i (rum the aliurea oi'Erie aiul Ontario. Besides the wheat drawn iVoiti the »^lJ^r()tllldiH(f country >uid from Ohio, some of the Rochester millers iin|>urted in 1835 from Canada (subject to heavy duty) about 100,000 basheh. < • • •^'^- Throe ofthe above mentioned mills have been erected last year, and considerable iuiprovement has been made in some ofthe others. These three mills contain seventeen runs — which, with the seventy-eight runa in the other eighteen mills, forms the total of ninety-five runs. A3 hns been remarked in tlie "Traveller's Guide", published by Da- vidson of Saratoga, ''some of the Rochester mills-are on ascale of magni> tude unsurpassed in the world ; all are considered first rate in the per- fection of their macitinery, and so elTective is the whole flouring appa- ratus, that there are several single runs of stones which can grind (and the machinery connected therewith bolt and pack) one hundred barrels of flour per day !" And such is the character and extensive demand for the article, that beside the quantity shipped for foreign countries, the ''Rochester brands," may be seen equally at Montreal or Wash- ington — at Gluebec or New Y«rk — at Boston, Hartford, Charleston, or New Orleans. The total amount of capital invested in the twenty-one mills exceeds half a million of dollars (640,000) as was ascertained on B late accurate examination, by Thomas H. Rochester, Esquire, one of a Committee appointed by the Common Council to collect the stat- istics of the city. Williams' "Annual Register" for 1S35, mentions the Rochester mills as only fourteen in number, with sixty-four runs of stone — but, by the statements here made, it will be seen that the mills are one-third more numerous, and the capital invested about double the amount given in the Register. The avidity with which mill property has been sought, and the atlditions made to it during the present sea- son, indicate clearly strong confldence in its permanent worth. The water-power ofthe two great falls at Rochester is estimated as equal to 1,920 steam engines of twenty horse power. The total value of this water-power, calculated according to the cost of steam power in England, is almost incredible to those unacquainted with such sub- jects — amounting as it would to nearly ten millions of dollars (9,718- 272) for its annual use. .. > - When in connection with this vast water-power we consider the great facilities which Rochester enjoys (by lake, canal and river) for receiv- ing wheat and other raw materials from, and shipping flour and other manufactures for, all desirable points either in the United States or the Canadas, we may fully appreciate the importance ofthe present mill- 13 98 UMT£b STATES. ing and manufacturing efitahlishments, and confidentty anticipate th« continued prosperity and protective greatness of the cit;/' This is another route to Upper Canada, as Rochester is but seven miles distant from lake Ontario, and con- nected with it by rail road. 'J he steam-boats of lake Ontario land and take in passengers at Rochester. Al- though this route is preferable to that by Lewiston, I think Oswego is still the best ; it is situated on the lake itself, is but thirty-eigki miles from Syracuse, whereas Rochester is 100, and then seven miles from the lake, the difference in crossing over to Canada, whether from RocJiester or Oswego, being of no account. After leaving Rochester, the next three villages on the "canal, are built on the site of basins connected with side streams, consisting of a few v; are-houses, inns, and pri- vate dwellings. Spencer's Basin, Adam's Basin, and Cooley's Basin. The country between Cooley's Basin fmd Brockport is very fine, tbe soil of superior quality, and extensively cleared. Brockport is a handsome and stirring place, houses extremely neat, mills and factories numerous and extensive — the churches commodious and well built — the farms large and the land good. There are few places on the canal presenting better appearances of comfort and prosperity. The country between this place and Oak Ori hard, twenty-four miles, presents the same appearance of new villages, land recently cleared, orch- ards newly made, and from the size and quality of the timber, the indication of a rich soil. Oak Orchard is very beautifully situated ; there is a fine fall of water, rushing down a steep precipice, into a stream which meanders through a romantic glen, finely diversified with trees of various kinds and growths: immediately above, and overlooking the falls, is a handsome stone bridge — the churches look neat and well finished buildingSi and UNITED STAT^SK 9» the houses comfortable. Middlcport and Reynold's Basin are surrounded by choice land, and have the advantage of excellent roads. At Gosport there is a burning spring which emits a large quantity of gas — a stream of it is di- rected into a lamp, which is ignited at night and gives a powerful light. Between this place and Lockport, the land is very good, and the new settlements large and prosperous. At Lockport is the last of the series of locks to Lake Erie, which brings the Rochester level to that of Erie— it is effected by five double locks of tweWe feet each. The upper and lower village are divided by the locks — the upper above the locks, the lower beneath them. Lockport has three excellent taverns, and there arc sev- eral very handsome buildings in both towns, especially a church and terrace in the Lower. The farms are large and well cultivated round Lockport, especially towards lake Ontario, and those skirting oti the ridge road. In many of the orchards very choice fruit trees had been planted. I saw some Indian boys at Lockport who were very expert with the bow and arrow; they' contin- ued amusing the spectators a long time by hitting a cent fixed in a stick, at twelve paces distant. They^were ve- ry dexterous marksmen, and received the cent |a3 their reward, every time they struck it with the arrow. The Indians have two settlements near Lockport'; one at Tonawanta, the other at Tuscarora. May 28. Most dreadful thunder and lightning storm : the lightning was awfully grand. 29th and 30th, rode round the country looking at new farms, and lands for sale on the Ridge Road. We came, in the woods, to a pAace in progress of setdement, where General Dearborn's army encamped. On many of the trees the officers and men had carved their names : they were still in good preservation, <*with uncouth rhymes and shapeless sculp- too ITNITED STATES, ■I I lire decked." By this time, the axe has levelled rnosf of them with the grouud. The niajestieexul)erancc ofthese: forest trees, particularly tlie huge and stately black wal- nut, situated in deep and romantic glens, with purrm<^ brooks of limpid water running through them: the more . gentle and retiring beauty of the newly formed, rich and verdant meadows : the promising appearance of the in- fant corn-fields, aided by tiws delightful breezes wafted from the magnificent waters of Lake Ontario, rentlcred this a very agreeable excursion. The botanist in these deep woods would find an almost inexhaustible source of amusement and instruction in the great variety of medi- cinal and other plants with which they abound. June 1st. Went to see the new roads forming from l^ockport, the one to Buffalo, effecting a saving of dis- tance of eight miles, and the other to the Falls, nearer than the present route by thirteen. June 3rd. Left Lockportfor Youngstown, to take the steamboat for Up- per Canada. The woods are only very partially clear- ed, and the roads in the most miserable condition. My friend declared that nothing should induce him to travel the same road again in one of the crazy stages. In ad- dition to the jolting, we were frequently in actual danger, and received so many bruises that we did not recover from the effects for several days. The reason why I have deviated so much from the generality of writers, in giving so diffuse an account of the villages, and new set- tlements forming, along this line of country, is to render to those farmers, intending to settle in the States, some idea of the country where most British settlers have al- ready fixed their habitations, and where, if good land, moderate prices for it, contiguous markets, facilities for religious worshi|), and education for their families, arc inducements — will still maintain the preference to IJiinois 4H UNITED STATES. lOI JVIichigan or any other porlioiis of the United States. Buffalo is situated at the extremity of the Erie Canal. It is 20 miles from Chippawa, and 22 from the Falls. It is a port of entry and capital of Erie county, in New- York Slate. It is built on the north-east side of Buffalo Creek, a considerable stream which joins the lake half a mile below. It contains a population of nearly 14,000: — has splendid hotels, a court-house, jail, hank, several churches, a fine pier of 1,000 feet in length, a magnifi- cent exchange in progress of erection; and being situated on the best channel of intercourse between the Atlantic and the western regions, must become a great emporium of trade. Its inhabitants are amongst the most enterpri- sing of our neighbours, and it is most gratifying to wit- ness the spirit, energy and enthusiasm which they evince in any measure connected with the prosperity and ad- vancement of their country. Several rail-roads are in contemplation; they seem all animated with the spirit of De Witt Clinton, feeling a certainty that these channels of communication being opened, create capital, bring forth the latent resources of a country, are the means of its immediate settlement, and conduce to accelerate the progress of civilization, which might otherwise remain dormant for years, especially if these auxilaries to nation- al prosperity were to be postponed until the settlement of a country rendered them actually indispensible. It is this energy which cai>ses the American always to be in ad- vance of us. Black Rock is on lake Erie, two miles north from Buffalo, it is a small village with a harbour artificially im- proved by a pier, there is a ferry to V\ aterloo, or Fort Erie, on the Canada side, three quarters of a mile in width. Of Upper Canada I have much to say in the next part. I ! ■■4 •- j . ,,-.*'^- '.--•■' .': 5 ' »-• *■ . f 4 CAMADA. :. il ** The settlement of Colonies in uninhabited countriei->tfae estab- lishment of those in security; whose misfortunes have made their coun- try no longer pleasing or safe — the acquisition of property without inju- ry to any — the appropriation of the ^waste and luxuriant bounties of nature, and the enjoyment of those gifts which Heaven has scattered upon regions uncultivated ahd unoccupied, cannot be considered without giving rise to a great number of pleasing ideas, and bewilder- ing the imagination in delightful prospect." — Johtt§on*s life of Savag$ ** There is no occasion to exaggerate, where plain truth is of so much weight and importance. But whether I put the present members too high or too low, is a matter of little moment. Such is the strength with which population shoots in that part of the world, that state the numbers as high as we will, whilst the dispute continues, the exagger- ation ends. Whilst we are discussing any given magnitude, they are grown to it. Your children do not grow faster frOm infancy to man- hood, than they spread from families to communities and from villages to nations." — Burke's Speech on conciliation with America. CHAPTER X. The great drawback to the prosperity of England is her immense population, compared with the labour required of them — the extent of surface, fertility of soil, salubrity of climate, rail roads, canals, new villages, and an im- mense country being rescued from a wilderness, renders a great augmentation of population of paramount advant- age to Canada, and without which her present capacities must be neglectedT-ftud whilst emigration would so ma- 104 UFPKU CANADA. terially improve Canada,what blessings it mii^lit impart tn thousands of poor and deserving inhabitants oIiIk; mother couniry. In attcmjning to lessen the nmnbers of the people by emigration, and ako to iniprove tlie condition of all parties interested, namely, tho?»tl)gatc, untalented set of emigrants 4!0uld never much araend, if at all, their situation by emi- grations Tq the individuals who do emigrate, if they niake a judicious selection of the part of the world they intend to settle in, there is a certainty of their circumstati- qes |)eing improved, and particularly as England is situa- ted, overpowered by burthens that are unexampled in ancient or modern times. A removal from Great Britain to Canada, must be a change materially for the better, and oil who- take advantage in emigration of either go^ vernment projects, or of other circumstances, will never repent;' that is, if they are determined to exert themselves •and sacrifice their preju^ces to their happiness. : -^ ' ..'Feeling deeply for the planters in the West Indies, and knowing from the^ fatal experience of S^. Domingo and other places, how uncertain the tenure of their prosperity i$,> and dreaditig least after 1840, their bright prospects may be destroyed, I would strongly urge them to in vest all their surplui^ ^capital in the Banks, and other public works in Canada, which will ^ve them extraordinary profit oni their investKbeut ; and if to that, they purchase in good situations, a choice farm,- they can look forward with a^ certainty to a refuge against any of the calamities virhich may await them, consequent on the alteration in their : social systemi.'- '^^/ *n-^\^^-^mmt*{'>''*^ •■tr^'^''-^'^ m^ai.'" ':;T.:4«s^;^%i'yw«" ,^:n;:\' In England, the agricultural interest is nearly ruined. The following pathetic letter was sent to Meshecb Stamp, an agricultural labourer, who was sent out, with his brother, from a poor house in Sussex, by the virtuous Lord Egremont, from his sister in England. Meshech is earning, with his wife, on a farm at Ancaster, seventeen, dollars per month all the year round, having their fire wood and house found them, with occasional presents : and another has constant employment at Branttord*— they have saved sufficient money between them to buy a vil- lage lot and house at Brantibrd. fj i:< l5 r r; m^'^ 51 Api.;iM Iv ' [See Letter No. 1 in the Appendix."} • : Jt'i- '^ Observe how feelingly she speaks of the happiness of her brothers in Canada, and her desire that her brothers in England, who had plenty of work, might be equally so.. Who can read unmoved, the account she gives of the work-houses all over England ? pnce happy, merry Eng- land, where poverty is punished by confinement — hard work —hard food, and transportation from their homes. I ■i UPPER CANADA. lU Husbands separated from their wives, and children from their ]>arents. W hat pious resignation does she exhibit, in speaking of her remembrance of her absent brothers^ when at Church ! How earnestly she desires pai^'':u1ar8 uf the country where they are so happy : and what a picture of fraternal love has she not drawn in the request thai at least once a year they will write to afford her fam- ily in England the comfort of hearing of their brother's prosperity. What a shocking contrast is this to contem- plate, that whilst thousands have been rescued from pov- erty by coming to Canada — made happy — had the means afforded them of sending money home to their friends to enable them to come out, there should still be thousands left behind who would greatly enrich this country by their labour, and make themselves comfortable arid indepen- dent, who, now are doomed to spin out thdr wretched lives on food that is barely sufficient to support them, and which renders their wan and meagre appearance Some- thing like that of the half-starved apothecary in Shake- speare's tragedy of Romeo and Juliet, of whom Romeo delivers the following animated description : '' V .V **Artthou so base, and full of wretchedness, ■- ' • * '^^ , And fear'st to die? Famine is in thy cheeks, '; ijv: .?>' Need and oppression starveth in thy eyes, . ,,c Upon thy back hangs ragged misery; — . ,; ' '' The world is not thy friend, nor the world's law; The world affords no law to make thee rich." The principle on which they act is, that parents who are giving birth to children they are unable to suppoH, are to be removed to a well disciplined workhouse, se- parated, and made to work hard, until they' had shown that they can be returned to society without becoming a burthen to it, either as regards themselves or their child- ren. The grand aiffair seems to be tost sight of^ thait the inability to support themselves and faiaoiilies, docs riot I ■?: »*• l\ I t UPPER CANADA. 112 proceed from them, but their inability to obtain work, and proper remuneration for it. The quantity of loud is to be less than that of a free labourer, and of a coarser kind, and he is compelled to work harder. Another of the labourers whom Lord Cgrcniont scut out from an English work house and who settled near Ancaster is now the owner of a farm of (ifiy acres, twcii- ty of which are cleared,with a log house, a span of horses, a waggon, a cow, hogs, poultry, ik.c. In addition to this, he sent home last year the means to enable his brother and his wife to come to Canada, which they did at his request, and are like him doing well. liow much more creditable to the government — how honorable to the nation — how much more beneficial to the Parishes, to have furqished the means to poor, indus- trious labourers to emigrate, than to decree that confine- ment in their Jazar-houses should be the penalty of want of work. They trepan or impress them to fight their battles both by sea and land, to explore their mines, to erect their splendid buildings, and to undergo perilous voyages for the promotion of trade and science — then, af- ter a long life spent in these laborious pursuits, if they require some small relief they are to be consigned to a Government Work-House, there to end their days in mi- scry. I have said that emigration offers great advanta- ges to those sturdy and powerful British farmers who have always accustomed themselves and their families to the labour of a farm. An individual of this description from Hampshire came out to this Province, and bought 1000 acres of land, ten miles distant from London, in the London District. He brought with him four stout, able bodied sons; they have now by their conjoint exertions cleared 75 acres,— got a comfortable house, good barn, plenty of stock, the means of happiness within themselves IJPPLU CANADA. 115 DOW, tliccii'tuinty of it, aij far as human foresight cau <)L'tcrtniiic, for their respective families in future. Mr. JMudie ill his valuable Uttle work called the Emigrant's Pocket Companion, s{)eaking of the paternal solicitude that would induce a parent to emigrate with a view to jiiovide for a numerous family, says : ♦*Ther€ can be no 4nore rational and even praiseworthy ground of emigra- ting than that ; and he who can clearly act upon it, who «ccs how those children who are a burden to him in the country where he is. may be wealth and comfort to him in the country to which he is going — and that their joint labour will not fail to place all who are dear to him in Independence and even in affluence, when he shall beta- ken from them —should by all means emigrate." It requires but a very slight acquaintance with this country to be well assured, that here, every poor man, if he be industrious, can provide abundantly for his family^ by any kind of labour, manual or mechanical : — for here the poorer class of the people are free from those imposts and burdens, Chat exorbitant price for rent and all the necessaries of life, and those scanty wages of productive toil, which, so often, sends the European supperlesstobed, moistens his pillow with the sweat of his brow, and be- dews his couch with the tears of unavailing anguish, while his children cry unto him for bread, and he has none, wherewith to still their wailing, and to appease their hunger. What an extensive field of employment for the practical philanthropist Canada presents : what misery might be relieved-~sses, to which emigrants were sometimes subjected, I may mention the foUowihg anecdote, which was told me by a gentleman in Upper Canada. Certain American speculators were in the habit of travelling on the road and in steam-boats along with emigrants newly arrived, and would insinuate themselves into their confidence, tender tdi^ice, induce them to purchase land in the States, and implements of husbandry at a high rate, and, in short, take every advantage of their ignorance, plunder them, and too often reduce them to beggary. My informant said, that on one occasion, when he was coming up the Hud- son, be observed in the steam vessel a burly, ruddy>-faced English farmer, to whom a sleek looking Yankee was paying particulak* atten- tion. My fVi6nd saw the game that was being played, and taking the former aside, he advised him to beware of his new friend. ' But how are we to know these swindlers V said Hodge ; ' perhaps you are one yourself!' ' Me? no, no,' said the gentleman ; * why I don't want to sell any thing to you. I'm your countryman : I only offer you ad- vice, for I wish to save you (here the American approached to listen to what was going forward;) but, whenever you see a d d sneak- ing fellow, shoving himself forward where he has no business, and list- ening to conversation which does not concern him, that is a Yankee speculator; — of him beware !' The American was unable to notice this severe rub, and edged off to mark down another qi.arry.'' The present Governor General of British North America has turned his attention to the subject of the passages of emigrants. In a masterly despatch to Lord John Russell, he srys *^ I take it for granted that the existing law would be sufficient to punish the frauds practised by passenger agents ; but if not, a provision should be introduced in the iPassengers Act to meet that case. Strict care should likewise be taken in every instance where an emigrant vessel is detained beyond the time appointed for her sailing to enforce the 14th clause of the existing act against the master. The emigraiit agents, by making it their practice to visit the places where emigrants are generally lodged when waiting for their passage, and by attentively observiug the proceedings of the passenger vessels at their respective stations, might easily perform this duty.'* There are respectable merchants, who Sv m i- / UPPKR CANADA. 117 have vessels from Liverpool to New YorH, every week : to Qncbcc and Montreal every fortnight. Their ships are convenient and comfortably fitted up, and their command- ers are skilful navigators. It is exceedingly desirable that an emigrant, immediately on landing, should call At the emigrant office for information, as the sooner he locates himself and obtains employment, the better. At Quebec, Montreal, Kingston, Toronto, and Hamil- ton, societies have been formed — and it is by far the most preferable route under the present well regulated state of things. If those, however, who intend coming to Cana- da, prefer making their voyage by New York, they should, by all meanS; immediately apply to the iiritish Coiisnl for information as to their route, otherwise they are very liable to be deceived. ; Before sailing, 1 think emigrants should take some gen- tle medicine as a preparation for their voyage — rhubarb and magnesia — a dose of salts, in peppermint infusion — an aloetic pill, or any mild medicine that agrees with them — their diet, for a week previous, should be light, and spare — at sea, if severely sick, rest, and plentiful draughts of warm camomile tea, and a little rhubarb and blue pill, or equal parts of blue pill and aloetic pill when laying down, after the stomach has recovered its tone suflScient- ly to retain one. They should be careful to provide some good ginger, with which they can make tea, a most grate- ful diffusible stimulus, and a valuable stomachic. At the completion of their voyage, when resuming full diet, it is very beneficial to direct the bile into its proper and accustomed channel, by again taking mild medicine, combined with *an unirritating dose of blue pill. Poor emigrants travelling up the Erie canal from New York — or the Rideau canal from Bytown to Kingston, would uo well to have some good powdered Ipecacuanha with lis UPPER CANADA. them, and should they be seized with rigors, lassitude, headaphe, nausea, followed by thirst, and increased heat, they should take an er. .tic of Ipecacuanha, imniediatHy, and afterwards some laxative medicine in conjunction with calomel or blue pill. Those with families should especially take care that their children have been vaccina- ted before leaving home, as the small po\ has been known to have been taken on board a ship and produced great ravages among the crew. The disease, most common to Europeans on their first arrival in Canada, consists in va- rious modifications of bilious disorder, and intermittent fever, sometimes dysentery. It has been variously ascribed to miasma, to imprudent exposure of the person, and drinking bad water. I think a fourth cause may be assigned, that has much to do with it, viz. the complete change in manner of living. To avoid^the first, in trav- ersing a marshy district, is scarcely possible — to guard against ill effects from the second cause, flannels should be worn next to the skin —and for the third, an admirable substitute for bad water may be found, in pouring boiling water on bruised ginger and making a weak ginger tea. To prevent the consequences of the fourth, a more sim- ple and plain diet, such as broth from lean meat, gruel, porridge, bread, milk, and eggs should be preferred to the coarse, rank, and greasy diet too often set before them. CHAPTER XI. Nothing can afford such an accurate indication of cli- mate, as correct meteorological data, and which, by the UPPER CANADA. lljy kindness of Dr. Craigie, I am enabled to supply to July 1836. \ may observe generally that the atmosphere h greatly divested of the humidity so productive ot catarrhs and rheumatism in Gt. Britain, and that it maybe char- acterized as clear and light, fogs not common, winters long and severe, summers short and intensely hot, scarce- ly any spring, but an Indian summer at the fall of the year, answering to the autumnal season, and for delicious mildness, not to be surpassed by any portion of the globe. High winds are common in March, and dreadful thunder and lightning storms in August. When I speak of the winters being long and severe, I do not, by any means, consider that as a fault, but on the contrary, if the various agricultural societies should be the means of introducing good winter food for cattle, nothing would be so cheering to the inhabitants, and be- neficial to the country, as such winters as the one we last passed through. The sons of St. Andrew were enabled by the excellent sleighing, to enjoy their annual festival^ Nov. 30, 1 835, at West Flamboro' — persons from Ancas- ter, Dundas, and Hamilton attending: and on new Year's eve, a ball was held at the same tavern, got up by the same party, at which upwards of one hundred persons at- tended. From the steady continuance of this delightful mode of travelling, persons from the most remof^ town- ships are enabled to make long journies, if necessary; — it is not at all unusual to travel four or five hundred miles in this manner. Immense business is effected during this lively season, innumerable saw logs conveyed to the mill^ grain brought to market, and chopping and clearing in the woods carried on. A person from Brantford, March 22nd, 1836, writes thus : "We are now drawing to the close of one of the feverett winter* which has been known for some years in Upper Canada, and we may 120 UPPER CANADA. look daily for an end as well to the amusements which it has afTordid by the excellent sleighing that has accompanied it, as to all those oc- cupations to which it has given facility, rail haulincr* wood drawing, &c. The farmer should now overhaul his plough, harrows, and im- plements of all descriptions, that he may be prepared to ^ake the field as soon as Mother Earth is loosened from her shackles. The heavy fall of snow has been a great preservation to the gtain, and from the show of the wheats before they were covered, fair crops may be antici- pated. The yards should, during the present month, as soon as they are loosened on the surface of the ground, becleared from the manure, it is more easily collected into heaps at this season, and when the ground softens, much of it is trodden into the earth, and remains there after it becomes dry. He is a slovenly farmer who allows it year after year to lie about his barn, injuring the timber and poisoning the atmos- phere — let him gather it into heaps and get it upon his land as soon as possible, and the return will pay him for his labour. We would have our friends too think about their grass seeds, and we give them an ex- cellent hint from our contemporary, the vienesee Farmer, on SOWING CLOVER. "Where it is intended to sow clover seed on winter grain, it should be done in the latter part of winter and before the thawing of the ground. It is a common practice to sow it in the spring, after the frost has left the soil — but as the ground has in this case become in a manner settled and dry, there is less chance of the seed vegetating, and as it falls merely upon the surface, it is prevented taking sufficient root to with- stand effectually the coming drought. But when sown earlier, the breaking and crumbling of the soil by the parting frost, mixes the earth with the seed and it takes sufficient root before the dry season comes upon it. There need not be any appiehension that the seed by germi- nating too early, will be killed by the frost, as they never start below the temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit — which temperature it is obvious cannot exist until the ground is thawed. *'A great loss always follows the practice of sowing too little seed. Twelve pounds to the acre is not too much in any instance and where he soil is poor a much larger quantity should be used. Farmers who 'sh to save expense by sowing only five or six pounds to the acre, iose more than five times as much by the deficiency of the crop — so that it is expensive economy at best. Besides, when clover is sown thinly, the growth is thin and coarse, on the contrary when there is sufficient seed, the growth is fine and dense, and the stalks are not rented by cattle aa is otherwise the case. A thick growth also pre- VPP£Et CANADA. 121 venlsi the ailmissian of weedi» which se frequently disfigure thki mett- Another person at Hamilton, April lOtb, 1836» writes thus : ,, ' c r "THE WEATHER. '*Tlie teriniiiation of an unusually long and hard vintsr* even for Canada, has taken place. On the 19lh of November, the country *n» for the HrDt time this season, covered with snow, a clothing whidi has continued, as the ancient historians would say, ''even unto this dajfJ* The intensity of the cold for more than fbur months has seldoAt been equalled, even in the recollection of the oldest seftlets; (he tberiuome'' ter during that period being frequently 90® belo# 2ere< Tbe injari- ous eflccts which must have been produced by it, have been completely counteracted by the deep snow which fell and was renewed at inter* vals throughout the winter, until its depth, in many places, wa* the cause of anticipated alarm of floods, with all their terrors, itben thtf thaw would come. The mildnesa of (he weather, koweverV ftfr die Iie< few days, and the gradual disappearance of the threateirieg eneihy; have dissipated every fear, and the heart of tbe baebaDdinaoidready begins to leap for juy. **tJpon the whole, the winter, notwithstanding its length an^ its severity, has been a pleasant on<>, and exceeding^ favotnraUe to the famvcr, fhe gvcat depth of tha snow not only ^potectimg the eA>p8 in thegroundrbut preventing the penetraition of tbe frost, so that a lew days only will elapse ere the plough can b« brought into comjplete and active operation. The sleighing throughout was incomparably fine ; affording amusement (o the towns folk, almost amounting t6 satiety, and yiriding a facRity for the transmisskm of every dedeription o^egrr- cultural proAice from the aioef remote pwrte ef the i^ovinfee. The* prices ttpo« an average^ &r grain, potatoes^ perh» Ssc, were higher than usuaU and the demand great* so that the ooflTers of tbe agricul- turist should now be tolerably well stored, and himself enabled to re< new his annual duties with vigour and confidence. **Hard ^sts stitt continue during the nights, but the ^ayr are de- lighlAilly ftiM,anildio hant ef the Sun ia rapidly, tho»gh impei^ceptibly reMpo'«tt»2 4t» wintry olotiting of whiter which will speedUy be suf^iedr by our spring mantle of green. The farmer is actively employed in hie preparations, and the mechanic as "busy as a nailor" in fo/ward* ing the means of his anticipated improveuienttf. *^8migratien upon an unnsuaHygraiKfeealeliasiietttmenctjlf eniong<>^ -^tbe Plgeofns ; andf the town tnd' oeuntvy IdiMgera' are at»idyi ate* 16 i^p»^pi?fPP|IW)i||P!Pnii»i i,iii.ii»»f(i.fi Jilipjlflvfl . 122 CPPBR CANADA. t : lively engaged in furnishing the housewives with the muterials fur a Pigeon pie. Crack, crack, crack, is the order of the day. Sliould the genuine emigration take place in an equal proportion, and the old wo* roen say the tnnunierable flocks of pigeons are a good sign, we antici- pate that the year 1836 will be a bright one for Canada. We will nut darken the pleasing picture by even a glairce at the political horizon." The late winter commenced in November, the sleigli- ing general on the 23d, and continued without intermis- sion during the whole of the months of December, Janua- ry, February, and Marcli. Of its evident utility to the Province, I shall have occasion to speak, in showing the quantity of timber conveyed to some of the saw- mills du- ring those months. Of the delightful temperature and appearance of an Indian summer, I took notes, when ma- king a visit from Cayuga to Brantford, in the third week of October. I was two days performing the journey along the rich meanderings of the Grand River. They were certainly two fine, autumnal days, when from the early occurrence of frost, the foliage had begun to assume its variegated appearance, before the falling of the leaf — and the beautiful tints and mellow hues far deeper and more diversified than in an European scene, often blended har- moniously in the same tree, or contrasted with the deep- est green of a kindred branch appearing too healthy and vigorous to be precursors of dissolution or symptoms of decay. The bright yellow of the walnut, the scarlet of the maple, the fresh green of the fir, and the sombre brown of the cedar, were often the most prominent colours ; but these were mingled with a variety of others more soft and delicate, melting imperceptibly into each other, and throwing a rich and luxuriant beauty over the gorgeous forest. The picturesque hills which sweep up from the river side, were sleeping in the mellow light of the season ; the distant village gleamed from a thin cloud, of light, blue vor, in the dreamy indistinctness of which the wm UPPER CANADA. 125 poet loves to dwell ; the trees were just arrayed in that garb indicative of decay, which always lends so tender and melancholy an interest to scenery — and the waters gliding silently along here and there bore down an Indian canoe without even a rijiple. The fragrance of the woods, the gambols of the squirrels, the coolness of the mornings and evenings gave an ethereal charm to the scene, fully justifying the indignant remonstrance of the poet against those who were not enamoured with nature's chai'ms l Tlicy know not how the deepening trees, Dark glens and shadow rocks can please, The morning blush, the sraHe^f even : < ; What trees, and lawns, and mountains mean, The dying gale, the breathing scene, The midnight calm, the whisp'ring heav'n. ' . I Pickering's observations are quite correct— he says : "'J he winter is the most lively part of the year : when there is about four inches snow with frosty sleighing is universal, for business or pleasure, from one end of the Province to the other. A span of good horses conveys two or three persons in a sleigh forty or fifty miles a day, with ease, and they often go sixty or seventy. With warm clothing, a fur cap, and a bear or buffalo skin over the back and feet, it is a pleasant and very easy way of travelling, enlivened by the numerous sleighs and the jingling of bells, which the horses are required to wear." From Ancaster Church, to Vanderlip's tavern, a distance of little more than three miles, across the Ancaster Plains, I counted sixty-four sleighs on the 2Gth of January, most of them bringing saw-logs to the «iill, several on jiarties of pleasure, and others with grain for the stores. As a proof of the cheerfulness and hilarity consequent on this mode of travelling, we may instance the following, animated account of a Canadian Poet. W^KWV 124 UPPER CANADA. THE SLEIGH BELL. Meirtly dwib w« o'»r valHy aad hill, AU but tlie Sleigh-bell ia aleeping and still, 0,ble88 the dear Sleigh-Bell ! there's nought can compare. To its loud merry tones as they break on the ear. i*-. : Our liorsev are staimchy and they dart o'er tlie ^rmwp Oiu balls riog gaily the faster we'go. The night breeaes sing with an answering swell. To the melody rude of the merry Sleigh-Bell. As awiftlyo'er valley and monntain we rove. The moon riding brightly and calmly above. Dull sorrow shall hear its inspiriting knell. In the loud cbeerAil notes ofthe merry Sleigh-BelT. Now kiss'd by the moon>beam, outstripping the wind. The cool sweeping nighNgale is panting behind, Nor leave we it aught our fleet pathway to tell, But the &r-distant tone ofthe merry Sleigh-Bell. Where the white plain is smoothest in safety w*e ride, ,: Wfaece the deep drift is highest we fearlessly glide,. O'er the steep we ascend, and we plunge through the dell. To tlie loud lively tone of the merry Sleigh-Bell. Thougli sweet is the note of the amorotts lute. And mellow the tone ofthe soft-brealhing flute. E'en the rich rolling voice ofthe organ's loud swell, Is nought to compare to the merry Sleigh-Bell. THBHMOMBTBIGAL OB9EaVATI»N®v> TAKBN AT ANOAflOnffl^ DVRiIAO TVK TBAR 1895; Alean height of the Baromelec ibr the year, 29; 10 incliea : it9 raoge.from28. 19to29. 88. - Mean temperature of the year 45,318: of the first six months 40,372: ofthe last six months 50,253. Range of the Thermometer from —7 to X 85^. Rain or snow during^ the year fell on ^8 days, but on 50 of these there were only^elight showers, giving an avarage of one rainy tft4 l^a-dirydfa^s, or ittBhKKnf every dw, oii'wiii«h'raiir or anwr fell; Ito 2.1. It 18 absolutely necessary to Mate, fiAwever, Itf fegkfd to the ftb«V6 observations, tbat th« whole y«ar of 1835, wai both Colder artd more rainy, than any preceding one, during the present century, f'rom ob- servations on the temperature of spring water we believe that averaging a series of y^ars, the itieaii temperatnre would not be udder 5(F. l)uringthe flfrniiniiMMMAf the hMttst weather, iitthe hi6n(lift(if JuTy and August, the nighie are cool, preventiog thai lavBiflade Afid WttvA* tion which would result from a long duration of uninterrupted beat. The following is the description of the clinr>ate of England, taken in 1S32, and published in a work entitled Statistical Notes. During the six winter monthti, from October (6 Mdfch, (he mtati (emperatcie of the ceAtral pMt df Enjfland to cotftMOnfy between 42^ and 43f^le4 by tbe American Land Company is ^\k9>fy H> 9t cwtignity to Montr^^l and Quebec,, must ren- der U fi deqir£(ble location, whilst the augmentation of i^tiive I$pHq«s i»^Sti eventually neuuraUve that spirit of fbudfk|fa|fni wbioh. i* opposed to the improvement and proAptfiirUy <|f a mnv^y^ The t'tiJm of Montreal and QMeW.Utve^biQeni ^ o^m e^nd $& well described, that I roier 10 Ik^ ac^eniiaii givQi» oi tk^m Hy othei;»^ mesely ob- s«rvi«gtb»t idle ioAgnificeaii po^iitMn oif ibe letter, con»- nvM&ng the nM^^ottk Sik hf^mn^¥t^ below, wiih ihe beaii- ti^ comiilry arouiid it ; 9»d tbe sftlen^ s^tbe^vajk «f ik^ fbrmer^ wil^(ti» h)% and richly w^oKagded mountain,, fiwn wliADco it djerinsea its munev wiih ihd k>«ei|y i^laaida ia the nv«r ate wetis woithy eif hmng leeu. ^They are both ao much like old European towns, and diiierstit wi/ieVy frots the airy, expansive cities of the United States, that an Americac feels as far from home on his first arrival in a CanadiriD city, as an European would in the forests on the Mississippi. As he looks round him, he feels more and more ii| a foreign land ; and the foreign linguagc and gentle manners of the native Canadians confirm the UPPKR CANADA. 129 I impression. Tlie pomp of monarchy, even when dimly seen in ihc regalia of a viceroy : the aristocratical distinc- tions apparent even in a Colony : the vestiges of the feu- dal system to be traced in the surrounding seignories ; the Nunneries and the Catholic churches/with their vesper and matin bells : the Catholic clergy walking in the streets ; are all calculated to recall impressions connected rather with the old world, than with the beasts of the for- est. Here no gray tower meets the eye, to cull back the imagination to scenes and incidents of elder times ; no monastic edifices to revive the memory of ancient things ; no regalia, transmitted throijgh a line of Kings ; no fear- ful mugnificence ; no baronial splendour : no sacred de- positories of the ashes of generations who have slept with their fathers during a thousand years : all is new, fresh, and prospective: and if the mind will take a retrospective glance, it is but to expatiate in the regions of fancy, or to lose itself in the clouds which rest on the early history of the aborigines." The British party are taking the best means of quieting the distractions which have hitherto checked the progress of the Province, by infusing a differ- ent body of people into the country, by paying every at- tention to their wants in the formation of roads — construc- tion of bridges —erection of houses — establis.iment of mills, churches, schools, &c. — and by the disposal of the waste lands at an easy and reasonable rate. Both Que- bec and Montreal are distinguished by the number of lit- erary characters with which they abound. In the former there Is a literary and historical society, not excelled in the vast continent of America. They possess a splendid mu- seum — a choice library — and a valuable philosophical apparatus. The following extract from their annual re- port will forcibly pourtray the nature, extent, and value of their labours. - ' 17 1' 1 ISO UPPER CANADA. "The Council have endeavored to qutckcn enquiries, hy proffered prizea* into various subjects on the antiquiiies, the history, and the statistics of the country ; on the Aborigines, their traditions, their lan- guages, their affinities to other races, particularly the Asiatic ; on tlieir ■progressive distribution through -the continent, and on the means of teflfecting their civilization. Other questions have been submitted for elucidation — on the arts as applied to the Canadas ; on the naturaJ history of the country, as applicable to the arts ; on its botany ; its in.- cligenous nutritious vegetables, and the menus of increasing the propor- tion of nutritious deposit in them ; on 'the intfoduction and culture of ^ahts of the most obvious utility congenial to the climate, and on its HgficuHure generally; on the important question of coal formations^ and the probability of their detection in the country; on its mines gener- ally ; on the exploration of the yet unknown portions of its extensive tetrritory, and on the all engrossing question, of facilitating the means oftjotnniunication over its vast surface. On thfe fisheNes of its rivers, HiiHH add coaits ; of the salmon ; (he sturgeon-; the porpoise, and the whale, more especially. These subjects are of wide research, and if fully inve ^ated would tend greatly to the increase of the productions of the Colony ; and would deter from fruitless exertions by giving a wholcflome diirectioh to them.^' The following extracts will exhibit the wrongs winch the British population have endured, and the obstacles which a faction have interposed to prevent the settlement afid retard the advancement of the Colony. *^It is a matter of mtich astmishment to us, how the conductor of a silMrie paper, in Ujiper Oariadc oculd persuade himself to "tiupport'the F/ench Faction in their horrible oppression of our British brethren in the Lower Province. Can it be; possible, we think, that they can know that the whole British population of the Province is totally unrepre- sented : do they know that by downright roguery, branded as such by a eonsdientious Judge eveti offhe French party, the British inhabitants 6f Montreal have been deprived of the i^ight of' Electing their o^ate- presentatives, while two of their enemies wereiretu^n^d iti'ihMir itdad: do they know that when they 'petitioned for an inquiry, V%^r nt right of a British subject? Mr. Speaker Papineau is not yet tu : Sovereign of Canada ; and if he were, 1 qitestion much, if, of all thos? who come into it, there is one who would condescend to ask him for a place of refuge, or an asylum. An Immigrant. **The subjoined extract we copy from the Irish Advocate ; it is t»> ken from f\ speech of M. Rodier, member for L'Assumption, delivered by that gentleman in the year 1832, and breathes the real sentiments of his party^ vi:^. enmity to emigration, and base ingratitude, in return ijr what British talent and persevi,rance have stfeoted, in a particular 1. ion ir, jor Lower Canada. "When I eee my country in mourning, and my native land present* ing to my eye nothing but one vast cemetty, I ask wh«t has been the cause of all these disasters ^— and the voice of my Father, my Brother and my beloved Mother — the voice of thousands of my fellow citiBeiM» I, if A: 132 UPPER CANADA. respond from their tombs, U is emgration. It was not enough to send anioog us avaricious egotists, without any ovher spirit of liberty than could be bestowed by a simple education of the counter, to en- rich themselves at the expense of the Canadians, and then endeavor to enslave them — they must also rid themselves of their beggars, and cast them by thousands on oiir shores ; they must send us miserable beings, who after having partaken of the bread of our children, will subject them to the horrors of hunger and misery; they must do slill more — they must send us in their train pestilence and death. If I pre- sent to you so melancholy a picture of the condition of this country, I have to encourage the hope tha» we may yet preserve our nationality, and avoid those future calamities : '.posing a barrier to this torrent of emigration. It is only in the Hot f Assembly we can place our hopes, and it is only in the choice the Canadians make in their elec- tions they can ensure the preservation of their rights and political liberties." ••After this, it will require all the sophistry and impudence of O'- Callaghan to persuade us that he and his friends encourage emigration, and that the House of Assembly, is not swayed in ail it does, by hos- tility to the inhabitants ofthis Provi ice of British and Irish origin, and a determined resolution to oppose the further influx of his countrymen there." ••The grievances under which the people of British origin have so long groaned in Lower Canada, tells a tale of oppression and over- bearing ignorance, which few people who have not been in that Prov- ince have any conception of. By the existence of feudal tenures and antiquated customs and privileges, which took their rise in the dark ages, and are still perpetuated there, the French population are enabled to return a majority of the members of the popular branch of the Leg- islature ; and with tliis powerful advantage, they can arrest all im- provement, check the exertions of their more enterprising fellow-sub- ject^) from the British Isles, and distract and disorganize the country. In the French portion of Lower Canada, we have a picture of Nor- mandy as it existed two hundred years ago, and when it is stated, that in Montreal, all sales of real property pay a feudal tax of twelve per cent., no matter how- often transferred, we may easily see what impedi- ments there are in the way of the English settler acquiring landed es- tate. And yet many of the important offices require such a qualifica- tion. It follows, then, that the British portion of the community labor under disadvantage, which no enterprise or industry will overcome, ■lid are governed by an ignorant set of men, who in effect usurp all I I UPPER CANADA. 133 the fuiictiuiid of government. The Province yields a handBome reve- iitie, but the English portion of the population derive little benefit from it — it being expended for French, and not English purposes, which, when we consider, that the revenue is paid almost exclusively by the English population — for the Frenclj consume scarcely any British man- u('HCture, from which the revenue springs— is very galling. A notable instance uf this system is practically illustrsted in the salary paid by tlie House of Assembly to Mr. Roebuck, who is employed at home to misrepresent the English, and to render their term of slavery irre- deerrable. Five thousand dollars of the people's money was thus ex- pended not three months since ; and in this way is the produce of the. Englishman's industry and the sweat of his brow expended to rivet ; his chains still tighter ! Can it, then, be wondered at that he is res- tive? the spirit now showing itself in Lower Canada, is of a totally ditferent character to that which caused the American colonists to take up arms in these United States fifty years ago ; the English in Cana- da seek not to dissolve, but to preserve British connexion, while their opponents are calling for elective institutions and a republic. *'Not long since the loyal party in Montreal attempted to form a volunteer Rifle Company, under the most distinct and positive under- standing that its objects were the preservation of the British Constitu- tion, and attachment to the Parent state. Yet no sooner was this known at Cluebec than the Governor'General, who is now openly ac- cused, we know not with what truth, of being in close alliance with Mr. Papineau and the republican party, issued his proclamation de- claring its existence illegal, and calling upon all the public authorities to suppress it, under the extreme penalty of the law ! Thus are free born Englishmen, Irishmen, and Scotchmen, punished for attadbmeni to their King and country — their loyalty pronounced treason, and their efforts to support the throne branded as attempts to destroy it. Cart it be wondered at then, we repeat, that the Constitutionalists have at lastrallied — banded themselves together and proclaimed their wrongs? Their crime, if it be one, was pardonable, for their object was to obey the royal injunction to Lord Gosford, which others seem to have forgot- ten — ^'Remember that Canada must not be lost or given away."— A happy day was it for Mr. Papineau and his friends when that pk-o- clamation came forth from Quebec, for well do they know that the lion is aroused, and about to shake the dew from his mane. The noble animal is not in haste to assail his enemies, but his spring will not be the less terrible. The disloyal upbraid the loyal, and they complain of the presence of troops and itab the soldier when defence*' ta4 UPPER CANADA. LI? lew and* alone. Will they allow the British actny to be marched out oS Ctvutdskt Noftthey — and if the Constitutionalists were to propose sucb ftmeaBUitrtnt-raorrofw^ Mr. Papiiieatt would be the first to invoke tlMW atny. Let them boast oftheii* numbers; even though they be three toi wWy w* hat tbeni; not — and were the troop» recalled, or shut up wUhin«llie walls of Q,uebec and the keys given to Mr. Papineau, the pcopteof British: ocigin would, with their strong arras and valiant hearts, hy aane mighty cfibft, arise and sweep the traitors from the face of the e«rtk'^ *iThere are two veeseJs at present on the stocks in the ship-yards, near th&eity, both of which will be ready fbr launching as soon as the rrver i» cKear ef iee. One is a barque of 401 tons measurement, own- ec^ by Messre. Jame» M411ar & Ca., and to be commanded by Captain Bunnv formerly of (be Favourite. The cabins of this vessel are now being finiehed'iu a most tasteful and superb manner, and when comple> ted will not be inferior in beauty and style to those of the New York packets'. We believe we we but doing justice to the builder when we give our opinion, v^tch is supported by the sentiments of nunoerous scientific gendemen who have visited this, vessel, that for architectural beauty and strength she has never been equalled by any other built in I>ftwer Canada. She is to be called the Glasgow. The other is the steam-boat for the Railroad Company, which, from her great length and peculiar model, is the wonder of iiie thousands who visit her. The length of her deck ie 176 feet, the breadth of beam 22 feet, depth of \old at midships 11 feet, which decreases to 6^ feet at the ends. The engine, which, with the boilers, will be under deck, is 75 horse power, but is capable of being worked up to 100. The model of thin boat differs materially from those hitherto buili d the St Lawrence. Extra length of keel has been found to have the same effect in reducing the draught of water, as breadth of beam and flatness of bottom, with this great advantage, that a long narrow boat, like that of the Railroad Company's, drawing an equul quantity of water with a short flat bot- tomed boat, will run much faster. When this boat has her engine oti board, and ready for running, she will draw about three feet of water. Beside the above, there are three barges on the stocks, almost ready for launching. Two are for the Ottawa and Rideau Forward-ling Com- pany, and the other for Messrs. James Millar 8s Co. The whole built bf Mr. Merritt.** - ♦' Every information is given to emigrants, both at Que^ bee and Montreal, wbere they may obtain immediate LWER CA,:»lAiI>A. 3255 employment. Numbers wUI be reqitined ih lihe Eaiatemi •townsbi{)$ ,' but il they desire to prooaed to ttbe -Uip|ifer rrovince, there will be full ocoupatioii next yftai:, (rliBS?^]) for any numberivho may wish to ooittte. Tbeam^woye^ mentson theSt. Lawrence — on the Ottawa—of iihe Gana- noque and VYiltsie creek — ^on the Tirent, land it^hc liutjornefl navigation of ihe Newcastle District-— «on Wmdsoa* iBkaji, township of Whitby, for the (construction oftthe harhDor— - Ifor the cutting down of the (Rouge ihill — ^for the lopeiung •of the road from thebaok townships, to 'that of Picker- ing-^for the "Desjardrns Canal, Dundas— at 'Pout Do.vser Harbour— for tlie :improv6iiient Ontario : from Toronto to lake Simcoe : from Toronto to Hamilton. From Niagara through St. Catharines, ' Beamsville, Grimsby, and Stoney Creek to Hamilton. From Hamilton to London, St. Thomas, and Sandwich, by Ancaster, Brantford, Burford, and Oxford. From ^ Dundas to Gait and Guelph. From Dundas to St. George, Dumfries and Paris. From Paris to Beechville and 'IVoodstock. From Hamilton to Caledonia, Seneca, and ..York, on the Grand River. During the summer months ? textni stages run to Hamilton for the convenience of : Steam-boat passengers to and from Toronto and Niagara. •■'-■;!■,'■'- ..." , . • CHLr-H,-*^- CHAPTER XIII. Upper Canada is divided into Twelve Districts — ^viz: the Eastern, Bathurst, Ottawa, Johnston, Prince Edward, Midland, Newciistle, Gore, Niagara, Home, London, and Western. These Districts are again divided into Coun- ties, for the better and more effectual representation of Hie people, and the registration of property, and these Counties into Townships. The Counties are — Cornwall, Prescott, Russell, Glengarry ,'Stormout, Dundas, Lanark, Carleton, Grenville, Frontenac, Lennox and Addington, Leeds, Hastings, Northumberland, Durham* 4 ridings of York, Simcoe, Halton, Wentworth, Haldimand, 4 ridings of Lincoln, Oxford, Norfolk, Middlesex, Kent, Essex, and Huron. 'llie whole of Upper Canada abounds in lakes, many of them varying from 200 acres In size, down to one or two, frequently in beautiful situations, often abounding in iish, and generally finely wooded round their shores, but the principal ones are as follows : tYatnes. Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie, Ontario, Simcoe, St. Clair, George, Rice Lake, — ,,,. The following is tlie elevation above the Sea, of the several Lakes enumerated — ascertained by the late survey o. the Inland waters of the Newcastle and Home Districts, — ^Lake Ontario 234 ft ; Rice Lake ^65 above lake Ontario, or 599 above the Sea ; ;,Balsam lake 234 ft 18 Length. Breadth. Circumference. Av. depth, 1,000 feet. 541 miles. 140 niiles. 1,225 miles. 250 ; V 190 1,100 860 260 90 1,000 » 780 inso «3 V.V: I 700 250 180 80 . „ 500 500 40 ^ 30 120 126 34 l.'\' 30 100 ■30 H. 25 ^■^^^^•■ 00 - 58 " ■■' '- ..;^,..H 24 .., 2to5 58 isa UPPER CANADA. 4 in. above Rice lake, or 823 ft. 4 in. Hbuve the Sea ; Luke Siincoe 704 ft; Lake Huron6B4A; diirerence between the level of lake Siin- coe and lake Huron 110 feet POFULAtlON RETURNS OP UPPER CANADA, TAKEN IN 1835. Newcaitle, 30,246— Bathurst, 22,693— Eastern, 29,119-Ottawa, 7044— Johnstown, 28,504— Prince Edward, 12,320— Midland, 34,365 —London, 41,130— Gore, 40,166— Western, 14,496— Home, 47,64P, exclusive of Toronto— Toronto, 9,756— Niagara, 28,735. Total, 346,165. The returns for 1836, as far as I have seen them, exhibit a very great increase of population, but not being able to obtain an entire set, I pre* fecred giving the returns for 1835. This increase added to the large emigration this year,, will certainly give Upper Canada a population of more than 4,00000 '.ti4 < ./;i;',tii»>.'; vV(.i .1 u Townihips. Mountain, Williamsburg, Matilda, Winchester, Lochtel, uff Lancaster, Kenyon, The Eastern District comprises the Counties of Dun das, Glengarry, and Stormont. ist. < -t , i-v -4 . EASTEHN DISTRICT. COUNTY OF DUNDA8. Cultivated aoraa. UoouUivatodaorei. 2,079 14,000 6,315 29,690 5,181 26,317 609 ' ' 6,090 ' COUNTY OF OLENOARRY. 6,306 t <*■ y 43,351 r«v 7,431 ,,, , 40,238 , , ,, 3,412 43,956 Cha'rlottenburgh, 16,425 58^940 > ' i r ;;i? COWNTY OF STORMONT. Osnabruek, 9,735 33,420 Finch, 935 9,365 SSrt'h"!} 12,318 6(^809 Town of Cornwall, ... Horses, 6,148— Four year old Oxen, 1,231— Milch Cows, 9,741— Homed Cattle, from one to four years old, 2,147. The County of Glengarry, which now contains upwards of 12,000 inhabitants, is principally settled by the Scotch, and their descendants. The venerable Bishop McDonell brought over a large number of Highlanders in IBO^ AMeiiment. je8,292 27,621 18,932 3,034 31,941 24,862 18,643 66,927 37,958 4,862 68,070 . i >;■> K><-i Populalioa. 872 2,128 2,187 351 2,434 2.662 1,990 4,968 4,r?i 525 4,510 1,741 IIPI'ER CANADA. 139 who were located in this county. In the township of J^ancaster, he comincnced the erection of St. Raphael's Cliurch, the largest in Upper Canada ; it is still unfinish- ed, but had he been enabled to have completed it, ac- cording to its original design, it would have proved an ornament to the country. It is now a fine spacious build- ing. He has also a seminary for Ecclesiastics here. There are fine large well cidtivated farms in the township of Charlottenburgh ; land good, and well watered. These two townships are boimded by the river St, Lawrence in front and the townships of Kenyon and Lochiel in the rear. In these latter townships, particularly Lochiel, there are several fine productive farms. They are all, save Kenyon, well supplied with mills. Both cleared farms, and wild land are reasonable. Its contiguity to market, and the newly settling townships in the Lower Province, will greatly enhance the value of property in this neighbourhood. Williamstown, in the County of Glengarry, is situated on the river Raisin, containing churches, schools, manu- factories, taverns, and many good houses. Col. Fraser, of Fraserfield, has a fine farm, well cultivated, with a handsome residence on it. There is a village in Lochiel very prettily situated, called Alexandria, with churches, schools, and a large populatioii. 1 here are 1200 free- holders in the County of Glengarry. .: f.i The County of Dundas has but little to recommend it, except its water ; in the township of Matilda there ,^is some fine land, and a mountain range running through it. The township of Williamsburgh is well settled and delightfully situated, fronting the St. Lawrence : it is abundantly watered by creeks, and has a rising village called Mariatown, in which there is a good tavern. The 140 UPPER CANADA. land is of superior quality. Mr. Brouso and Captain McDonell possess large well cultivated farms, with goo■ . '■ ii ' -■ . ' ' i . / 1- ♦ .i'v J, , J.^#-r T;.-..- 4/ •' .■'[ i.' . ■ ', v^--'"!''- ' :\ - '■ ; ■ .'; x> '* ' '■ ■' . .- w - -- - < ■- ■■ i'/di. ii''-' i -v - ».: i ■ tf-.vi.;.; , 'r I'PPKR CAWAPA. 141 The Ottawa District, in the rear of tlic Eastern District, and having its north front on the river Ottawa, is divided into two Counties, viz. Presscott, and Russell ; it is bounded by the majestic river from whence it derives its name, the Ottawa. :mh iv* . , OTTAWA DISTRICT. /••»'»(-. j i* COUNTV OK raESCOTT. Towmtliipi. Cuir vutcd ucreti. u iculiiviited Hcrei^. West Hnwkcsbiiry 4,806 16,633 East Hawkesbury 2,020 14,003 Longiioil, 3,358 12,004 (Jnledoiiia, 993 6,188 Alfred, 297 4,271 J PlantHgiinet, 1,342 11,517 * ,.*-'■■ COUNTY OP UIISSKLL, Clarence, .363 5,781 Cumboriand, '• •: 395 *"■■ 3 6,995 ^ Russell, ,.• '''* 2,226 Cambridge, Gloucester, 1,859 17,238 , Osgoodc, ^ .„.| . 852 13,442 Aiio(»tnent, PopulalioD. iil9,403 1,801 (}■■ 10,884 12,135 41,077 1,698 6,477 1,950 2,578 1,028 9,017 4,588 853i. 1,090 374 ^' 163 J. 737 178 208 » 36 ^ 1,081 ' 523 Horses, 740— Milch Cows, 2,095— Four year old Oxen, 831— Two year old Horned Cattle, 599. y,>.,,d: hiiH . Mau,^ .uU.': The village of L'Origina! has two churches, and con- tains many inhabitants, but the country depends more on the lumber trade than its agriculture. A Fair has been established in the village with a view to its encourage- ment. But the place of most consequence in this District is ..-, ^i.v;vy,s^:}rh jiif ^ BYTOWN *'*^^ ■ ■'*■ Which is divided into two parts, is named after Col. By, and called the upper and lower town, a mile distant from each other, containing both together more than two thou- sand inhabitants ; in the lower town they are chiefly Canadians. The streets are laid out in straight lines, and contain some excellent houses, many stores, and some good taverns. There is u large Catholic church in the lower town, which is most numerously attended. In the upper town there is a Small English Church, a larger ^!«P«tI!fl?]P9|lfW^W™^!(!WW«ffr 1 in: , t 142 UPPER CANADA. Scotch pFCsbvtcrian one, and a diminutive Methodist tabernacle* The Rideau Canal locks, lie between the two towns, to which persons pass and repass over a large, lofty, and handsotne stone bridge, called of th*^ Sappei-s and Miners. There is a fine and extensive grist-mill be- longing to Mr. McKay, the excellent member for Russell, about a iii'le below the lowei town, in a small, but in- creasing village, called Uew Edinburgh, where the junc- tion of the Rideau and Ottawa rivers take place. The scenery, particularly about the upper town, is the most lofty and sublime in Canada. The fails of the Chaudiere, somewhat better than a mile above it, are awfully grand. TJiese falls are about one hundred and twenty-fiive miles due west from Montreal. The interruption is six miles in length, and the river then extends into a ^jpacious and deep lake, the head of which is about thirty miles from the Chaudiere falls, and abcit two miles further to the north. At this spot occurs, perhaps, one of the most sin- gular, grand, and beB'jtiful spectacles in nature. The Utta-wa, here two miles and a half in breadth, is precipi- tated in fifteen distinct cataracts over a straight line of perpendicular crags, covered in the intervals with ever- green cedar and pine, and instantly sinks to rest in the still lake below. After this interruption, the river again extends into a beautiful lake, changes its direction, and flows from the north west. Opposite to Bytown, is Hull, in Lower Canada, the Utta-wa being here the boundary between the two Provinces. The Rideau canal connects the Utta-wa with lake Ontario at Kingston, by avoiding the Chaudiere falls. The whole extent of this fine canal, including the rivers and lakes through which it passers, is about 160 miles in length ; it has 47 locks, 147 feet by 33 wide ; the total rise is 437 feet ; the highest reservoir is the Rideau lake, which is 24 miles in length. The UPPER CANADA. 143 Methodist v€eii tl»e f a large, Sappei-s -mill be- Russell, , but ill- he junc- e. The he most audiere, ' grand, -^e miles ix miles JUS and es from r to the )st sin- The recipi- I'lne of cver- in the again , and Hull, ndary meets •iding anal, es, is t)y33 sir is The canal commences in the river Ottawa, in a small bay, 130 miles from Montreel, and 150 from Kingston ~ is entered from this bay by eight locks, passes through a ravine, extends over a large swamp, secured by a dam ; crosses another ravine by means of an aque- duct, and joins the Rideau river, six miles from the com- mencement of the canal. Here there is a large dam, which overcomes seven miles of rapids, converting them into a silent stream. The canal is united to the river by means of a lock. By the assistance of locks, dams, and embankments, it is carried to the river Cataraque,^ and ultimately terminates in that river, by Kingston. The whole of the 47 locks are of admirable construction^ ex- bibiking the appearance o( beauty, solidity, and strength. It is altogether f; splendid work, worthy of the government that perfected it, and of the two majestic rivers that are connected together by it. The two Provinces are united by a bridge built over La Grande Chaudiere, it is called the Union bridge^ a splen- did specimen of architecture ,* the abutments of the bridge rest on the rocks, which interrupt the current of the river, and some idea may be formed of the bridge, the centre arch forming an expansion of 270 feet. During the spring of this year the main arcb of this beautiful bridge gave way, it is about to be repaired. This spU ndid national undertaking, the Rideau canal, is now traversed by steam- boats, making a quick and easy communication for emi- grants. The principal part of the settlers in Cumberland, Clarence, and Gloucester, are located along the banks of the Ottawa river. An immense quantity of business is transacted at By town, which, from its locality cannot btit flourish. This District sends three members to the House of Assembly. ' .... ,.,. Amongst the many suggestions for settling the imftienit 1 1 144 UPPER CANADA. tract of beautiful country, comprised witliiii the Home, Newcastle, and Midland Districts, has been the improve- ment of the navigation of the majestic river, the Ottawa ; so as to connect its splendid water with lake Huron, at the upper end of Georgian bay, by the French river, and through lake Nipissing. Although a stupendous under- taking, when rt is considered what an immense tCTit )ry would be rescued from a wilderness — what mines of wealth woirld be unfolded — what an extension of naviga- tion -and commerce would be the result — and above ail the certainty of carrying the produce of this mighty territory, and the trade of Michigan, to Montreal: as a lover of Bri- tish interests I should glory in its accomplishment. Mr. Sheriff of Bytown — not Mr. Sheriff of Mungospark, Illi- nois — has been most indefatigable in his attempts to bring this plan into notice. *^' o.«r? r:^t * > ms^^ .^r I'^rn'nzui jr-; I have been informed by a friend who has just returned from Bytown, that there is more lumbering doing on the Ottawa river this year than in any previous season. There is a general expectation that prices will be good next year, and eyery exertion is making to take advantage of the first arrivals in spring. As an illustration of the ex- tent to which lumbering is carried on the Ottawa, I may mention that several trains were laden with oats at By- town to proceed three hundred miles up the river, to sup- ply the horses which are employed in the woods at that distance. ifAv ;^' .f,' Th« ruUowingii extracted from the Bytown Gazette. THE TIMBER TRADE. In our last week's paper we stated our belief that much of the timber, wliich had been made during the present season, would not reach the Qiuebec market. Since that time, in conversing with many friends who are well versed on the subject, we find the probable quantity which, will be detained, will be do less than 6U,000 pieces, chiefly from the t'ollowing rivers : iJJ*PtiR CJiJfAtiJt. In the Madawaska, abovt i '>-■' '\ Ottawa, Oh!th^ Grand Gat timet, burnt and Biuck^ In the F(irt Colonge rivet, »* Swdyau, . i' *♦ Pitawawa, " Mattawa, " ' - ' ♦♦ GattenaU) In other small tributary streahisi 1^ 90,350 oitfcMi 9,000 9,000 a;ooa . 1,300 3,OdO 2,000' 12.000 4,000 • H .»-;:; 68,650 piecei. We Would observe that, whien this odr staple ti-ade is liable to so mi' hyca^aalities, When such an amourit of cajiitai may bd looked up and unproductivM in it, blind, einiet and unjust must that policy be, which would subject it to greater risks arid incumbrances by thdremdvttl at phltettivg^ duties, to gratify a few speculators in Baltic Tii^bcir. : f/, Quantity of Timber, &c. despatched from the Gbaudier Palltf oil the Ottawa^ for Quebec Market, from 5th to 12th July : , Red Pine. 5,952 I Oak, ^ 1,63^ WliiiePine, 3i776^ | W.l.^tivdi, 238 Flour, per barrel, front Oats, per bdshel, '» Barley per ditto Indian Corn Potatoes Beef per lb. Pork per dittd Veal per ditto Mutton ditto Lamb, Butter ditto, Eggs per doisen (t «• 4( 4» it al Clergyman, and principally supported by members of that denomina- tion. The court-house and jail are handsome stone buildings, and the churches and many of the houses being built with stone, and covered with tin, imparts a very in- teresting appearance to The place. The farms m this vi- cinity are large, the soil fertile, and well cleared, with stone-wall fences, and often, good stone houses on them. The wharves at Brockville are very substantial and spa- cious. «wi»>i,""»«' Jiiiw||"»i<>»||iit(iif. .1 !B ijiiJUpu.p'sjiwwnwiP! MJ^ll 'i, : PRESCOTT Is at the head of the rapids of the St, Lawrence, injmediatcly opposite to Ogdensburgh; the St. J.awrencp )s here very broad. There are nearly four hmidreit dw^ling houses, many of \\\eu\ large, handsuipe, and well-built stone houses, and several excellent stone stores. Tliere are four places of worship. Ihe catholic cjiurcU |s a stone building, but heavy : the English and Scotch churches, and the Methodist meeting-house, are frame e- rections. There is a custom house, and a very elegaiu stone building, erected by the catiiolic clergyman, iho Rev. J. W. Champion, and denominated the Grenvillo College, 84 feet in length, with two wings, one at either end 4Q feet each in length, extending in a fitie garden geoinetricalJy arranged, and lying between them and a splendid stone mansion he has erected for his own resi-^ dence. 1 here is also a large foundry, a distillery, and a very extensive and substantially built brewery, a short distance from the town, — a pottery and many shops l)e-. longing to mechanics. There are seven good taverns and some few groceries. There is a wind- mill near Prescott, but no water-mills* There is an hospital fbr emigrants, imd extensive sheds for their reception They are r€« ceived with kindness and with open arms in Upper Cana- da, whilst they are viewed by a brutally ignoraut faction |n Lower Canada, as a curse. The former specimens clearly evince the insensate and deadly malevolence of the French leaders to men of British origin. Thp founds ry at Prescott has turned out steam engines? equal iq workmanship to any on the lakes. There is also an es-r tablishment for making coaches, sleighs, harness, &c. &c. which supplies the country far and near. The pottery also supplies the whole country between Glengarry and 3§llvJII^t There is a Branch of (he Commercial Bauk *^ UPPER CANADA, 1^ und an agent of the Montreal Bank in PrcscotA, but a sticcessfiil application has been made to the Proviuciad Parliament for the cstablibhmenf of a bank in the town with a capital of JSl 00,000. There are thret^ common Kciiools, well conducted, and a female seminary. When the Grenville College comes into active operation it will afTord them a finished education. In connection wit)) this college or establishment, there will be a library for general circulation, which will b» bought at the public expense, the proprietor supplying a number of miscella-^ neous works : the proceeds of the library will be appro* priated to the clothing of poor children who will be in- structed gratuitously in the College. Thej*e is a weekly- newspaper and a monthly literary publication. The town is incorporated but returns no Member to Parlia- ment, A board of police, elected by the inhabitants, is .. authorized by an act of the Provincial Legislature. Pres- v cott, being situated on the margin of the St. Lawrence^ and at the foot of the schooner navigation,^ becomes the regular depot of all merchandise, and the point of em^ barkation for every traveller from Quebec and Montreal to the west. It is admitted to be extremely salubrious, possessing a most beautiful ap«d fertile back country, with excellent tracts of fine timber lands in the immediate vi<. cidity for ship building and other purposes. An enter* prising merchant at Prescott has already a sliip-yard in full operation. The first steam-boat which navigated tb|s river was launched here : and that splendid steam-bdac» . the Great Britain, the monarch of the Iqkes, was con- . structed here. A rail road from Lake Champlain to Og- denshurgh, connected with the Boston rail road, is about to go into operation, which, when completed, in addition to the above mentioned local advantages of Prescott, will render it in a commercial point of view, infeiior to na I\ II I Ml ■5|i 150 UPPER CANADA. town in Upper Canada. The election for the county takes place in this town. ,..,,, , , *^There was launched this a(\ernoon from the ship-yard of Messrs. Hooker, Henderson & Co. a large and splendid centreboard schonner pT 130 tons burthen, intended for the carrying trade of lakes Ontario and Erie. This vessel is so constructed as to warrant the belief tluit ahe irill be able to carry 800 barrels of pork through the Welland canal without unloading. She is built and rigged in the most substantial manner, and is superior to any other schooner on these waters. She ia an ornament to the lake, and reflects much credit on the owners, and the builder, Mr. Sheay. She is named in honour of our staunch Coostitittiodal Governor, Sir F. B. Head. The name gave grei)t aatisfaction to the people here, and was received by the most enthusi- astic cheering by the multitude assembled to witness the launch, which was the best we ever saw. She was fully rigged and sails bent while on the stocks, and looked beautiful as she glided gracefully into her native element.'' ^ .....:.n. .>v GANNANOQUE Is a small villaige, on the Gannanoque River, the hydrau- Jic power at this place is probably the best in the Province, and if ever manufacttires should be carried to much ex- tent, this village will be the nucleus for a large manufac- turing town. There are already in active operation, a spacious flour mill, a saw mill, a pail manufactory, a cloth manufactory, a foundry, a fulling mill, carding machine, 4^. "The Gannanoque Creek, rushes headlong over the precipice, into the St. Lawrence, and has been viewed with stupid curiosity by the savages for the last thousand years. But the genius of civilization and enterprise ap- proaches, and by the touch of her magic wand, the whole scene is inspired with a new and busier vitality : and a cluster of factories and mills give employment, sustenance and ultimately affluence to thousands. The value here is not in the waterfall, but in the genius which turned it to account : the capital and enterprise which created this scene of prosperity and industry, which now maintains it Dl*l'Ell CANADA. J 161 in active operation.^' There are other small villages in the District— Beverly, Portland^ Maitland — all flourishing. Also, Merrickville, where three beautiful locks oftheRi- dean canal are built : they are of a hewn stone, most se- em ely constructed, of large dimensions, and presents grand an imposing appearance. 'J he land in this District is throughout uncommonly good, the Farmers arc doing well, and of late years their debts are much diminished. The winters are particularly favorable for wheat, as the heavy snows generally fall in the last of November, aud leave the ground at the latter end of March. The roadii are, of course, exceedingly fine in the winter, in consc' quence of the excellence and duration of sleighing, and very good in the summer for a new country. A few emi- grants settle in this vicinity yearly, but the great bulk ga to the westward, inf the new townships in those portions of the Province. In consequence of this, land, and*im' proved farms in particular, are cheaper than in the upper part of the Province. At Yonge mills there is a flouring mill on a grand and extensive scale, the property of the Hon. C. Jones, who manufactured last year upwards of 20,000 barrels of flour. There are also many other de- scriptions of mills and buildings. There are several large lakes in the back townships of this District ; and in Lans- down there are iron works. This District sends five members to the House of Assembly. Black Lead and a soft Soap-stone, with a smooth oily surface, is found about the Gunanoque lake- / • ^ tSi! 'V^ 1») Bl •i i:| I tjPttR CA^AOA. \6t THE BATHURST DISTRICT, Is divided into the two Counties of Jianark and Cartctt^ili Townihiptf. Drummond) Batliurst, 0Mloirith, North Sherbrookei South Sherbrooke, Iiaitarkt Dttlhousie, ttamsay* I)ar1insf) Hortoni (joulbdurnet Huntly^ March, Pack^nbam: Fitarojv Torbolton, WcNab» Nepean, COUNTY or LANARK. Uneuhivitsd aura*-. Culiivatnd acrM. 6,810 6,672 5,634 897,. 321 6,534 * 4;676 5,469 482 781 COUNTY 5,946 2^664 1,953 i;947 li,194 496 858 AsAeiMhiPiii. Pupulaiirtrti 32,371 i:27,691 2i822 33.756 21,418 2.251 dl,487 V 19,010 2,125 6,681 2.748 366 4.311 1.399 168 SO.STt 18.446 1.850 21,295 11,824 1,106 35,502 20,255 2.188 3,450 1.636 I97 8,120 3,460 228 OP CARLJlTdN^ 32,064 19,550 2M6 25,460 . 11,091 l,l9d 15,120 7,592 638 9.640 5.656 662 24,250 9,813 762 5,940 2,295 190 10,^ 4,653 613 23.990 27,748 3,186 Oxen, 3*332- -Milch Cdves, 6,541— 4,145 j54l — Four year Two year did ttbrnfed Cattle 2,536. This flourishing and beautifut District^ bounded by the Ottawa, and by the Rideau with lake Ontario, aboundsin tillages, streams, new* settlements, lakes, — is colonized by Highland and Lowland Scotchmen, and exhibits the character of a fine and thriving District. The land though marshy, in many parts, h extremely rich, consisting of dal^ and yellow l6am — the timber of the forest id large; l«>fty,'afid of every variety^— the rivers Rideau and Missis* sipi^ Clyde, and Tay, falling into the Ottawa^ noble rivals turning machinery, run through most of tlie townships— *■ and a reference to the table will show the value and extent of cultivation in the District. RICHMOND Is about twenty miles from Perth, it is situated on the York river, the country between it and Perth is well set- tled, although low and swampy, h forms the Rideau iTPfEtt CANADA. 163 B6ttlen1ent, and owes its prosperity in a gteat measure to the extent of tlie lumber trade carried on along the Otta* wa river. PERTH i. Is not only beautifully situated, bu\ is in a very flourish' ing condition. It is in the centre of a thriving, well cultivated country, and holding direct communication with two inland rivers. It is built on a small branch of the Rideau, Called the Tay, and lies nearly equidistant between the St. Lawrence on the south, and the Uttawa behind, enabling it to carry on an extensive trade with Kingston on the one, and Bytown on the other. The farms around it, are extensive, well cleared, very fertile, and have capital buildings on them. In the town of Perth there are some of the best built buildings in the country^ Nearly in the centre of the town, there is a lofty hill, on which the court-house, jail, and two church-^ es have been erected. The streets are laid out uniform- ly, and are between 60 and 70 feet in breadth. The |X)- palation exceeds 800 ,' there are good mills, taverns, and stores at Perth« Property has greatly advanced in value in this neighbourhood, but there are still lands, both wild and cultivated, to be met with at moderate prices. This District sends four members to the House of Assembly.-— From this District principally, and from the Ottawa, the McNab will raise his brave and hardy band nf H?«rU»-- f^ cvp 'or a militia. 20 u -ti^nmiwrniar^m "T^ ■ , , -^ < Ernest Town, 20,8974 36,045 62,796 3,873 Fredericksburgh, 13.617 . , 22,199 38,573 2,594 Adolphustown, 6,043 5,250 14,097 661 Richmond, '^^* 5,998 ' 22,120 22.551 1,642 Camden, . , 8,583 30,305 Sheffield, ' 587 5,630 27,058 2,252 2,814 309 Xmherst Island, 2*575 ' " 8,225 7,001 738 , J. ; COUNTY OF HASTINGS. Sidney, 14,334; 30,941 41,341 no returns Tivurlow, 10,171 " 27,000 57,738 3,939 Rawd.on, ,' 1,675 6,994 6,373 625 Marnnora, 1,006 7,664 . 4,059 273 Huntingdon, 1,222 8,695 ' 4,246 437 Hungerford, , 736 « 10,125 4,016 420 Madoc, 932 7,887 3,745 no return^ Tyendinaga, 3,227 17,224 13,221 1,443 Horses, 5,628— Oxen of four year old and u pwards, 3;368~MiIcb Cows, lI>899^Horned. Cattle from two to four year old, 3,678, : ' y.u\ . ..-;.:v,...tf. ■ KINGSTON • . ■■■ . : ' ■ ( • Is finely situated at the eastern end, and on the norlb bank of Lake Ontario, at its junction with the St. Law- rence. - !t has a population of nearly 6,000 persons. If is celebrated in having been, during the war, the navat depot. The peninsula formed by Point Frederick, ex- tending half a mile into the lake, and being opposite to, and distant from the town, about three quarters of a mile, forms a deep inlet, and secure harbour, called Navy Bay. It is a place of great strength also as a military position.^ It contains several fine churches, and many excellent fttoae buildings; the streets are paved, and there are sev- 1 UPPER CANADA. \5b cral large wharves. A marine rail-way has been form- ed, and a great deal of business is carried on in the dock yard. The barracks are spacious; a long, but hdudsome^ wooden bridge is thrown over the river, connecting Kings- ton with forts Henry and Frederick and the village of Barriefield, which is pleasantly situated. Fort Henry; sit- uated on the extremity of the ridge forming Point Henryi is a stupendous fortification of great strength: it covers ati area of one acre; its walls and outworks are extremely massive. The fort and ditches are finished in an admira-* ble manner, but it will occtipy much time before the gla- cis is levelled, and the outworks are completed. The bulwarks and walls exhibit a formidable appearance. — \ This gigantic work is being executed at the expense of ^he mother country. The hospital at Kingston is a beau- tiful stone building, and is conducted in the most satis- factory manner. There are several excellent societies in: Kingston, humane and literary; there is also a library and reading room. The Provincial Penitentiary is about a mile and a half from Kingston : it is a strong, large, stone building: its interior construction is admirable, and the arrangements well calculated to effect the desirable purpose for which it was erected. I rode with Bishop Macdoneil to Kingston MiUs, a distance of seven miles from the town: the ride is pretty and sequestered; they are at the entrance of the Rideau Canal. The locks here are splendid, and the scenery beautiful. 'J he lovely valley is enclosed by lofty cliffs of noble granite, finely wooded with varieties of pine, fir, elm and birch trees. The old mills^ erected by the Bri- tish Government for the use of the U. E. Loyalists, are still sta\iding, and form, together with the splendid mason- ry of the Rideau Canal, copvincing proofs of its earnest solicitude to do ample justice to its Canadian subjects. I ISHi P H' 1 1 i i n - 1 lii 1 ifi ' m 11 166 UPPER CANADA. cannot omit mentioning ttie very superior accommodation to be met with in the British Hotel, kept by Mr. Mnc- donald, a most attentive and obliging landlord. 'I here are several newspapers published in Kingston. On the whole, Kingston is a beautiful town, strongly fortified, — commanding the St. Lawrence, and Lake Ontario, and possessing the advantage of the llideau Cat^al. It is ex- tremely dry, and healthy — has a fine back country, which roust attract the attention of enterprising capitalists and ensure its lasting prosperity. KILLARNEY, WEST LOUGHBOROUGH. TMa rising hanolet or small village, known by the various nameii of «»McGregor*» Mills," "Murray's Mill»»," •'Ru88elI^" and "Lough- borough Mills," has lately become the property of (j. W. Ynrker, Esq* ofKingston, aud v/ould most probably obtain the fec«h title of Yarker^A Mills, were it not deemed advisable by the chief inhabiiants to name the place themselves, and thus prevent it taking the cognomen of every and each gentleman, who chooses to become its purchaRcr. Its8itua« tion is at the outlet of a lovely lake, reminding the beholder of lake Killarney in Ireland, and the immediate vicinity of an old Iri6»h settle- ment, suggested the name of Killarney, which probably will be the nam« by whioh it will ultimately descend to poiaterity. That the size of the place entitles it to be cor>sidered a village, the enumeration of the following buildings clearly shows: A stone grist- mill, with two runs, a handsome saw-mill, with two saws, a large merch- ant's store and dwellirtg, the property of Mr. Yarker, the merchant's store of Mr. H. Madden, the dwelling-house, tannery, and leather store of Mcc B. Waters, the stone dwelling-house and saw-mill of Mr. P. Switzer, the inn of Mr. John Swiizer, the fulling mill, carding machine and dwelling-house of M^ H. Grannis, the house and blacksmith's shop of Mr. D. Haight, the tailors shop of Mr. Moss, the farm hou- ses of Messrs, Wood and Blake, besides several other erections, the occupants of which are unknown to us. The want of a postal to any other part of the Province, and a market where the . farmer is sure to obtain the highest cash price for his produce; with a circula- ting medium equal to the vvunts of the Province, by ati extensive and liberal banking system, will induce enterprising men to (Establish wool'<. en and other manufactures; a subject ofparainount importance to tfaei future advancement of the Province. .... ...... »..., , ; ., BATH. • - The village of Bath is finely situated^ and continues iii^ creasing with great rapidity; it has many houses, stores* taverns, and carries on an excellent trade. " ' ; COLD CREEK. Among these villages the flouriahi.ig hamlet at the mouth of Cold Creek, is deserving, boili from its size and situation, of being - better known than it appears to be at present. About eight miles above the mouth of the Trent, on its west bank, a large stream with a fall of se- veral feet at its mouth, empties itself into the Trent in almost the only part of (hat river free from rapids, until the Highlands are passed. Mr. Scott, one of the old settlers of the country, and a proprietor of the adjoining land, here erected a grist and saw miU some years ago, but beyond these erections and his own dwelling house, nothing further was done, until within these two years, when Mr. W. R. Bowen, a magistrate and merchant of Richmond^ removed his family and his es-' tablishrnent to the Creek, with the intention of settling the place.— ^ Since his arrival, an important alteration has taken place. Houses have been put up as it were by magic; mechanicfi of all kinds have es" tablished themselves; two taverns have been opened, and trade of alt kinds seems to be far more brisk than in mpny other places three times its size. A bridge has been here thrown across the Trent^which although unfmished at the time of oUr visit, will probably be completed early in the spring. On the opposite side of the river, there has ex- isted for many years a cluster of houses, that in course of time might have grown into a village, but now can only aspife to be a suburb of its neighbour. A road to the mouth of the Trent is made on both sides, but that on the west bank is the best and most frequented. Tins village is not uPimed. Most persons call it Scott's Mills, from its original proprietor; others again, Cold Greek, frdm the name of the Cieek} and tv few are willing touameit Waterfbrd, from theexMt^ ■1 160 uWeR CANAbA* ^nce of a safe and convenient ford, in the immediate vicinity. Wtf lake the liberty of suggesting tu the inhabitants the propriety of calling II meeting to name the village, and at the same time they might dra# the attention of the Provincial Post-master General (by petition) to* wards establishing a Post Office. From the number of respectable and wealthy gentlemen settled down in the country back of Cold Creek ft post-office established nearer than the mouth of the Trent would be a desirable convenience, to sny nothing at all of the wants of the villa* gerE» who from their extensive trade in lumber, would be much bene- fitted by it. The country is good along the Napanee and Rich^ mond Rivers, through the townships of Richmond and Tyendinaga to Shannonviile^ but still densely wooded. — - The beautiffil headlands of the Bay of Quinte, and the lovely and romantic scenery along the banks of the Trent to Rawdon, is more completely British than any thing t have witnessed in the Province. There is abundance of fine land in the townships of Sidney Rawdon, Murray, and Seymour. Sidney is well settled, and the land in the highest state of cultivation. It is a tine township, well worthy of attention. Ernest-town and Fredericksburgh are well settled: the farms are good and of reasonable price. In the township of Marmora, situated on the lake and river, are the Marmora Iron Works, which give employment to a numerous body of men. The land in the back townships is not very good; that in the town- ship of Seymour is excellent) and settled by a highly re- spectable body of men. madoc. This town^ip, hitherto little noted, is bounded on the north by TU' dor, on the east by Elziver» south by Huntingdon, and west by Mar" mora. It is distant from Belleville about twenty-eight miles, its area 18 70,000 acres, 50,000 oi which are farming land, 30,000 of which are equal to any lands in the Province for strength of soil, convenience of water and beauty of timber. There is now resident in the township eighty-one families, making a population of about two hundred aoult< Thcst hav« nearly 4000 acres under good improvement, and raise ao tP^ER CANADi. 16t ttbunftfluce of all the lubBtaiitials of life for the consumption ofthe in* habitants, besides manufacturing large quantities of potash for export* Qtion. There is at present but one flouring and one saw-tnill in town. They are owned by our enterprising fellow townsman, D. Mackenzie, who is making thoroHgh repairs and extensive additions to them at great expense, in order to meet the growing demands on that esta- blishment for the coming year. An iron work is now being built in the vicinity of the above mills, by Messrs. Pendergast & Cow gentle* men from the United States. The work will stand on lot No. 1, of the 6th concession. This establishment is one of great consequence to Madoc and the surrounding country, for we are informed, when in ope- ration, it will give constant employment, in all departments ofthe busi- nese^, to one hundred hands. The ore to be smelted is the magnetie t)xide, and will produce about 70 per cent of iron. This extensive land valuable bed of iron ore ia on lot No. 11, of the 5th concession, bnd was bought ofthe Canada Company, who, with a liberality rarely to be met with, have sold it to the present owners at an advance beyond the ordinary price of lands in the neighbourhood, on condition only that they should improve it. This township contains other valuable minerals, such as beds of fine marble, zinC, lead, and propably copper, which might be worked to great profit. These, added to as fine a soil as the world produces, pure and abundant streams of water, fine timbet and a healthy country, all conspire to render Madoc at this time asde^ sirable a location for the farmer, the capitalist, and the man of science, •s any in the Province. tAlVADlAN FAIRS. YO THE BOITOR OF THE KINGSTON CRRONICLB. 6ir—^That valuable European custom of holding Fairs 8emi*annuatlj^ \b fast l^aining ground in this Province ; the farmers are learning, by experience, that a Mart for horses, cattle, grain, &c, twice every year^ #here Cash is genef'ally paid, and purchasers are in waiting, is pre- ferable to the farmer's ruinous practice of Trade, as it is technically termed, and the merchants, auctioneers, &c. anticipate the Fair with eldted expectation, arising from an almost sure market for their varied commodhies. These facts have been pleasingly proved to demonstra- tion at the late Fair held at Napanee on the Ist, 2d and 3d instant The march of intellect is fast progressing, and thone who were-ii few years since shrouded in natural, or rather ignorant cliflSdence, are ac- quiring that spirit of emulation which is the invariable characteristic of a prosperous country, or colony ; and thote fafmereresidin^ in the 21 \t^ VPPBR CANADA. Coiiniiei of Lenoi and Addiiigton, evinced their c^ability of appreei' ititig the vait advantt^s accruing (Vom the Napanee Fair, by entering 3 Entire Horses, 98 Working " 100 47' 40 (i and actuolly sellinsr for Cash, 713 busbela Whe~at, ♦* Corn, Rye, ** Peas, ♦• Barley, •* Oata, 139 190 104 51 61 Young Cows Oxen Young Cattle, Bales «of horses, &c* could not be ascertained from the disposers not informing the Clerk, but doubtless the sales realized their most elated •zpectalhons. The business of the Fair was not interrupted for a mo* ment by intoxication or disturbance; all ^ as conducted with regularity «nd despatch, which does credit to the farmers and others who were in attendance. To the praise of the Managers of the Fair they were prompt and indefatigable in making every exertion for the p:oper con< ducting of business, evincing that public spiritedness which has been worthily attached to (heir names. JOHN O. DELTOR, Clerk. Napanee, March 5, 1836. A reference to the map will show the number and magnitude of the Lakes with which these Districts, in the eastern division of Upper Canada, abound. 'JThis Dis- trict returns seven JVl embers to the House of Assembly. PRINCE EDWARD DISTRICT, Is divided into the following townships : I'owntbips. Coltivated aeret tiallowell, 22,275 Bophiasburgh, 14,245 Ameliasburgh, 10,521 Hillier, 12,793 Marysburgh, 9,072 Uncultivated aerea. 37,572 24,573 26,589 16,621 Asieismant, £68,153 43,35^ 30,784 30,963 28,280 FopuIaiien< 4,034 2,141 1,839 2,065 23,206 Hordes, 2,922— Four year old Oxen, 1367— Milch Cows, 5«763— H«IDed Cattle, frblh two to four years old, 1,460. Although swampy in some parts, the land in this lovely island is extremely good : the villages of Picton and Hallbwell, in the township of Hallowfell, are denghtftil- fl UPPER CANADA. 163 ty situated. There is constant comoiuuication by Bteain boats and sciiooners in summer, and the sleighing in the Bay of Quinte is excellent during the winter. There are churches, schools, taverns and stores, in this District,^ and land of excellent quality can be obtained at a reasonable rate. It is an interesting part of Upper Canada. The country is beautifully diversified with picturesque and ro- mantic views of hill, dale^ and water. This District re- turns two Members to the House of Assembly. One newspaper is published in it, called the Ti^^velleft both in matter and manner highly respectable. This District offers very tempting inducements to ag4riculturalists : the soil is excellent^ the timber valuable, commnnicatioos constant, and the situation delightful. The Traveller in speaking of the number of emigrants arrived this year^ now more than 25,000, notices this district as followsir— On Monday, 25th Jt»)y, the schooner Prince Edward, Capt. Xpung, discharged a cai^o of salt, at the new pier which is now in the course of erection, at Wellington, by that spirited and enterprising gentleman^ Archibald McFaul, Esq. This .schooner is the first vessel that h^s been enabled to unload at the pier^ since ks comixiencement, but the work is now proceeding so steadily and rapidly, that by the first of September or thereabouts, vessels of almost any burthen, will be able- to unload with safety and ease, and the pier wilV then vie in appearance and strength, with any in the Province. It is also expected that sevc^a|I of the Lake Steamboats will make it a stopping placs^ on their passage to and from Toronto, one in particular^ is we believe already pledged to do BOf from the time the p\et is completed, until the end of the pre- sentseason. From all tbe accounts we have seen, we are inclined to think, that the number of emigrants arriving at Q,uebeo, during the present yea r,. will equal, if not exceed that of any previousyear, notwithsUnding.^e prqspeiTous times in England, which have naturally induced us to as- pect « corresponding diminution in the number of those who annuttt^ leave their native land to seek a new home in the new world. We gte 9ladlopee.t)iis,^nd;«tiU.ii^9re do f e rejp.J9e,to.?eethat mpst of t^ipm beod their course to Upper Cfit|<^4^» to ,af^|(i^t,ia fU^.^^Hi^p^^ 164 UPPER CANADA. which unites ui to the mother country. There is ample room for t?iem all, there are regions in the west still unsettled, still uncleared, and there are many delightful locations in those aeclions of the Province^ which have been settled for many years, which invite the atientiou alike of the capitalist, the gentleman, the artizan, and ttie labourer. In the latter list we may rank our own beautiful and fertile District, of which we safely say that to the natives of the British Isles, it oti'ers at- tractions inferior to none, superior to most of the other parts of the Pro- vince. Indented with beautiful bays and almost entirely surrounded by navigable waters, it needs only to be examined to be admired, and we hope that many who have not yet fixed upon a location, will pause and view the beauties of Prince Edward District, ere their lot in life is cast, perhaps forever. But above all, we want more labourers, wft thought that a cargo of 115 souls would have supplied our wants for some time, but we were mistaken. Mora are wanted yet, and the sooner they come the better for themselvea and their employers. THE NEWCASTLE DISTRICT Is ditided into two counties, iNoithumbcrland & Diirtmni. COUNTY OF Cttltivated acrei. 1,620 13,160 10,039 4,077 12,483 1,616 1,205 1,855 604 7,773 . 4,269 1,730 87^ COUNTY 2,686 6,245 5,686 8,554 1,163 1,198 10,532 709 NORTHUAtBERLANO. Unnuliivaied Mrei. Asiesfment, Populatias 13,253 £ 5,983 428 26,702 60,392 3,708 24,839 31.624 2,247 21.172 11,708 1,087 22,730 29,371 2,295 14,362 17,751 1,607 19,156 7,252 636 6.670 6.281 512 5,112 2,045 236 . 28,442 28,558 2.064 29,430 16,335 1,260 16,385 7,975 744 18,194 5,587 693 T OP DURHAM. 26.470 11,655 i,5ia 19,681 17,016 1,635 25.746 21,288 1,865 36,705 25.218 2,675 14,332 6.338 694 23.077 8,340 931 27.835 41,516 2,739 10,468 4,002 615 ' w • 151, Townihipf-. Asphodel^ Hamilton, Cramabe, Smith, Haldimand, Monaghan, Seymour^ Percy, flnnismore, Murray, Otonabee, Douro, Dummer, Emily, Clarke, Darlington, Cavan, EldoD, Ops, Hope, Mariposa, Maovers, Horses, 3,339— Four year old Oxen, 4,405— Milch Cowi, 7,695— Homed Cattle, from two to four years old; 3,267. rPPCft CANADA. 165 Tills District has a greater chain of lakes and water communication, than any other portion of Upper Cana> da, and a great deal of controversy has existed as to the practicability of making it available for navigable purpo- ses, — some contending that the improvement of the Bi> ver Trent would be most advisable, — others desirous of connecting the Rice Lake with Lake Simcoe through the long chain of lakes, — and others anxious that the Ot- tawa should be connected with Lake Huron, to secure the North West Trade to Montreal. Whatever decision will be finally adopted, it is very certain that the agitation of the question alone, brings forward, in a prominent de- gree the vast capabilities of this interesting section of the Province, which must one day be covered with schooners and steamers, carrying to distant markets, the produce of its enterprising settlers. It abounds with villages, and has some highly respectable families located in it. The township of Hamilton is bounded in the front by Lake Ontario, and in the rear by the Rice Lake. The village cfCoBouRG, in this township, is pleasantly situated in a fine bay on Lake Ontario; — it contains a population of 1,300 persons. Its streets are remarkably clean — the houses regular and painted. There are three brick and five large stone houses; — a neat English church contain- ing an organ, and having for its pastor a most exemplary and worthy man; — a fine large stone wind-mill, several stores, a most excellent tavern, and two printing presses, which supply Cobourg, and its vicinity, with two week- ly newspapers. There is also a Seminary, built by mem- bers of the methodist persuasion, in a fine, high, and commanding situation. It is four stories in height, 135 feet frontage: — it is a brick building covered with stucco : the centre part i s surmounted with a cupola. The farms round this neighbourhood are excellent, well cleared, and 166 UfPER CANADA. in fine cultivation, admirably adapted for grazing: the orchards are well stocked with choice fruit trees. The jail and court-house is a large stone building ; it stands on a commanding situation, embraces a (inc view of the lake and surrounding country ; it is two miles above Colxiurg on Dundas street, in the village of Amherst. — The road from Cobourg to the Rice Lake, thirteen miles, IS through a pleasing country, particularly about midway at a place called the Cold Springs, a fine valley, lying be- tween two lofty hills. Tlie road from this place gently rises until you come near the Rice Lake, of which, and its beautiful islands, you obtan a tine view; the slope from thence is gradual and pleasing. In Rice Lak here are many islands, large and small. Its Indian name is Pe- madashkautiong. There are immense quantities of wild fowl here, that live upon the rice. From Sully the lake is crossed, to ascend the Otanabee river, which divides the townships of Monaghan and Otanabee. Both the Otanabee and the Trent empty themselves into Rice Lake. The river is very beautifully skirted by thickly wooded banks, which rise gradually towards Petbrbo- BOuoH. This village stands on a fine elevated, sandy plain, and in a very central situation in the District: — it is divided by the river, and is immediately adjoining and above the small lake. It commenced in 1825 under the superintendance of the Hon. P. Robinson, who lived wiih a large body of Irish emigrants for some time. It is beautifully wooded with choice trees. A very ^ood and substantial frame bridge has been erected across the Otanabee river at this place. It contains a po- pulation of I,(X;0 persons, and continues stilL improving. Tlierc are two churches, several stores, excellent mills, good inns, schools, adistillery, and some very respectable ieitlers in the neighlKiurhood. Ff om l?eter]^i;Qu§h to ly settled townships, with a few straggling inhabitants; or even com* pare them to Peterborough and its surrounding townships, with apopu* tation of about 20,000 inhabitants, to say nothing of the well settled townships bordering on the Rice Lake and River Trent. c Tn this the Gobourg rail road comes at once into notice, &8 opening Peterbnro' with the front. Then is there a line of about 45 miles^ which could be opened for about £10,000, viz. by a rail road to Mud Lake from Peterboro' — a distance of 7 miles, and by finishing the Canal at Rokeby, which would at once lay open a large extent of a fine, fast •ettling part of the country, which has, within these few years, been changed from a wilderness to one of the most civilized parts of Canada The next obstruction is at Cameron's Falls, a height of about 28 feet } probably Jti-15tOWi would be sufficient to obviate that. Then is there no obstruction to Balsam Lake, from which, a rail road of 15 miles would open lake Simcoe, at an expense of perhaps £20,000, thus lay* ing open the extensive tract of ground round Lake Simcoe, and from , UPt>ER CANADA. 169 \\\Ai \6 Ptitek'borough aad Lake Ontario, at thi incotiBid^rabU auin of X65)000. • ,: The improvement of the Trent is required by the settlers along ita banks, and by those engaged in lumbering. The improvement of tha Trent is required ' ot only to supply the present wants of the country, but it will be the means of creating for itself an immense business. Sucti has been the case with alltlie canals in England — 'and to come nearer lioine, such has been the oafie with the Erie canal, a work which has bt^uii tho means of doing more good to ihe country through which it Iruns, and of creating for itself more business than even the persevcrinjf t)rojector of it himself ever contemplated — such unquestionably will be the case with the Trent — if any one doubts it, let him look at the shores 'Of the Bayof Quintev Wherever asteam*boat can approach on either Bide of the Bay, there we see extensive clearances well stocked, and with substantial buildings, villages rising in every direction, and two towns at least of as much importance to their respective diat/icts, as any towns or villages in the Province — Belleville and Hallowell. Why is it so on the Bay of Q,uinte ? Because there is an excellent navigation nearly up to every man'a door, which enables him, or what is the same thing, his merchant to have a quick, cheap and easy communication Vrith the best of Markets, Kingston, GananOque, and Montreal. Be it remembered that the country on each side of the Bay of duinte is less indebted to emigration from Great Britain and Ireland than any part of the Province, it is hardly known except to those who are obliged to travel on the Bay, yet I will venture to say, in the neighborhood of each convenient shipping place, it is as much settled, and the inhabi- tants are as industrious and prosperous as any part of the Province* The Trent, when improved, would allow of shipping places at every part of its banks ; and it is natural to expect that those advantages would be seieed, and the country about it quickly improved, when fa^' cilities to and from market are afforded. Besides, there is one article of the lumber trade, boards and deals for the American market, which from the peculiar water privileges of the Trent and its tributary streams, Would of .itself add greatly to the business of the CanaU Last year great quantities of the above article were shipped for the States from the Trent and Belleville, and the demand would be fully equal to any sup' ply the country could afford, and no section of the country is better able to afford that supply than the country about the Trent. . « PORT HOPE Is situated seven miles above Cobourg on the lake-shore; 22 '"^ppffp?*" i ii I Ii ti ill 170 VPPER CANADA. it is in the township of Hope. There Ts a beautiful stream running through it called Smith's Creek : it runs between two picturesque^ hills, rendered more so by the churches and houses being placed among the trees. The steam-boats touch at the wharf, erected at the termina- tion of the creek. It contains 1 ,000 inhabitants. There are some excellent mills in the village, a fine brew- house and distillery, and an excellent harbour made by two piers jutting out into the lake, with the creek running between them. The New Castle District returns four Members to the House of Assembly. It is a beautiful District, offering to every class of settler the most ample opportunities of successful employment. 1 he improve- ment of the Trent is thus ably argued by ttie Editor of that respectable paper, the Cobourg Star :—^ Advantageously situated on the mighty Ontario, opposite the most commercial p>>it of the Union, and offering a highway by a grand «hain of watars through >:s interior to the St. Lawrence, the District of New£iastle will, at no distant period, rank the first in point of pros- perity and wealth in Upper Canada. As we fortunately have at last got a House of Assembly, indisposed tn harass the country, and retard its internal advancement and happiness by useless agitation, we may look forward, under its auspices, for the developement of those rich re- sources, which a bountiful Providence has so abundantly lavished on this District. The ente;^ isirtg individuals in the rear of us, who are now literally land-lockea n Uin'ir forests, and consequently unable to realise any thing from their produce, or derive the least profit from the valuable lumber with which they are surrounded, have claims upon the Legislature of no ordinary character. Most of them have spent their properties in the purchase and clearance of land, in situations where it was hopeless to locate, without nn expectation that the splen- did resources shut up in that section of the country, would be made •vailable to themselves and the cc mmunity, through the obvious chan- nels of communication which lay spread out before them. With this expectation they settled upon the shores of those beautiful lakes and rivers, which fertilize the interior of this district, and form a natural chain of waters, in many place's navigable for ships of the line, extend- ing from lake Ontario, through the heart of the Newcastle and Home VPPER CAXADi. 171 Diatricts, almost to lake Huron. His Excellency Sir John Golborne, during the period of hit administration, was fully sensible of the im- mense natural advantages of which this District in particular was pos* sessed ; and from the personal observations which he made in his oc- casional visits to the back country, foresaw the day at hand^ when, with a little improvement, this finely timbered and well watered r^ion would be within the reach of a seaport, and have ready access to the first. To forward the advancement of the Province formed one of the chief objects of his concern ; with this in vie «. he gave tns attention to* the internal navigation of the Newcastle and Home Districts, and con- templating a grand msasure, ordered the kirniediate survey of the whole from the Bay of Quinte to Lake Huron. The r esult of thi» sur- vey was laid before the late House of Assembly, but that House bekig^ at the time composed of vicious materials, through the treachery ofoae or two pretended friends to this District, abandoned » plan commen- surate with the vast importance of the undertaking, for the paltry sura^ of £10,000, which sum it determined should be expended in a man- ner best suited to the convenience of two or three interested individuals in favour with the ruling majority. The grant of £16000 might, how- ever, be better than nothing at all, but this even was neutralized through' the factious opposition offered by the House, and as a matter of course by the aforesaid friends of the District, to the Lieutenant Governor. There c.>n be no doubt that the benefit of that half measure will be soon enjoyei, but the present House mi'at not be satisfied because the work may be commencing. It is a duty incumbent on the Constitu- tional Members of the new Parliament, to use every exertion towards the advance of the improvement in the country, and especially that description which will confer the most general benefit. We view the opening of the Trent, and tbeback waters of tl:e Newcastle and Home Districts, as a work of this character ; in the first place, the employ- ment which the work will afibrd, and the requisition almost at the door of the farmer for his produce, will be of advantage, inasmuch as it will promote industry, and serve to tranquilixe the country ; then the en- hanced value which property, in many cases in the hands of needy settlers, will assume — the influx of capital, w!:-3n a spirit of improve- ment shall have been properly excited — the progress of other works of a similar kind, and the consequent increase of trade and demand of hands, will have efiec(all over the Province. When we consider also the extent of the improvement— that it is not a mere local undertaking, but one, besides opening the back country, it will give opportunity for the speedy filling up of the whole trict lying between the great work r t 172 UPPER CANADA. and the front, by connecting improvements, it niufit be admitted tbat the whole country would derive benefit from an improvement of such primary importance. When the character for enterprise of the Can- adas becomcB more established, and active measures, beyond tlve mere groping our way, are taken xo render them a field for prosperous spec- ulations, the people virill not h.^vetime nor inclination (o quarrel with their "bread and butter," or pino di hr ne over grievances, existing only in their own discontented imaginings. It is whilst looking forward to these prospects that we anticipated the time when the West will not be inundated by the humbler class of settlers, without the means of employing them, but as a larger portion of emigrants will be monied men, so a readier circulation of capital will be obtained to support the labouring population, of which great numbers would be drawn ofi' to places where improvements were being carried on. Until the only road which the country can present with advantage for perhaps centu- ries, we mean the water communication, be rendered navigable, we cannot make much greater advances. But in a little time we hope efieciive means will be obtained to put the grand resources of wealth, now locked up in the interior of the country, into operation, tliat we may shortly behold beautiful fields smiling amidst the wild recesses of the forest. THE HOME DISTRICT, The largest and most important in the Province, is sub- divided into Four Ridings, and the County of Sim coe. FOUR RIDINGS OF YORK. Township ., Uaoultivatad aorei. C York, 36,357 Oxbridge, 5,107 Georgiana, 8,933 North Gwillimbury, 7,780 Caledon, 30.688 Brock, 23,902 Markham, 43,107 East Gwillimbury, 18,533 Reach, 9,118 Chinguacousy, 47,293 Pickering, 33,169 Toronto (old 8ur";y) 14,465 Toronto, 21,265 Scarboro, 22,742 Whitby, 36,661 Whitchurch, 25,852 King, 29,964 Gore of Toronto, 12,655 trated acres. Population. Asseisment 13,674 5,040 £51,555 1,660 431 5,697 1,218 369 4,889 1,834 481 5,434 4,297 1,414 14,785 3,187 1,077 11,100 20,370 4,349 60,749 6,643 1,374 21,510 1,002 444 4,002 12,217 2,4'J8 32,069 10,171 2,642 23,358 7,161 687 32,152 13,032 4,384 37,750 8,109 2,047 22,537 14,523 2;808 44,898 10,237 2,454 37,154 5,569 1,889 30,648 3,170 687 9,863 A UPPER CANADA. 17 All)inn, 26,289 4,173 1,089 13,484 Vauglian, 39,016 11,699 2,985 37,901 Etobicoke, 16,029 6,761 1,344 18,734 , COUNTY OF 8I&IC0B. Tliorah, 9,944 813 337 3,691 Essa, 5,757 404 272 2,066 Mono, 15,253 1,551 675 6,189 Vuspra, 10.643 755 447 5,030 Tecumsetli, 22,935 4,474 1,410 13,665 Medonte, 17,151 707 502 5,665 Oro, 32,646 1,689 1,060 10,351 Adjala, 12,449 1,134 616 5,005 Innisfil, 12,034 834 590 4,583 West Gwillitnburv, 30,963 5,563 1,305 19,143 Orillia, 4,207 156 no return, 2,234 Tiny & Tay, 4,501 603 509 5,298 Flos, 3,476 125 106 1,082 For the number of Horses, Oxen, &c. vide Appendix. '1 he city of Toronto, the capital of Upper Canada, has so rapidly improved since I saw it first, on the fourth of June, 1833, that, judging of the future from the past, it is scarcely possible to conjecture what advance it may yet make. It is in latitude 43 ° 39' n., and longitude 79 ° 36^ w. It is very prettily situated within an excellent harbour of an elipticalform, comprising an area of eight or nine square miles, made by a long peninsula, on which a large hotel has been erected ; and at its extremity is a large light house as a direction to the entrance of the Bay. It is a semi-circular strip of land, of a sandy na- ture, resembling that between Burlingtr\ V y and Lake Ontario, and like it, has some trees of a stunted growth upon it. The bay is about three miles in diameter, and at the east end of the city, a bridge is erected over the ri- ver Don, which empties itself into this Bay. There is a large wind-mill erected here. From the old French Fort to the River Don, a distance of at least three miles, this city extends, containing some spacious and handsome ed- ifices. The Parliament Houses and the Government Building^s are large and well built, but by no means dis- 1^ w^^- I i 174 UPPER CANADA. tinguished for their elegance. The Legislative Council Chamber is a splendid room, superbly decorated ; the royal arms» the throne, the speakers chair, are gorgeous in the extreme. As the room is an ornament to the city of Toronto, so happily are its members, the protection of the Province, the bulwark of the constitution, its prop^ stay, and security against frantic levellers and scheming republicans. Long may it exist, the oflTspring of the Crown, forming a separate and entirely independent Inrancb of the legislature, — -in its origin and intention, cal- culated to form the glorious and legitimate incitement to virtuous and patriotic action : — standing alike secure from the impulse of sudden and factious movements* and the controul of hasty popular excitement, as from the influence of arbitrary power. Any impartial individual who could read their splendid defence against the atro- cious calumnies of the late discarded and ignorant House of Assembly, would immediately perceive that the hatred of the latter, could be well accounted for by that snarling envy, which hates the excellence it cannot reach. The House of Assembly is a fine commodious cham- ber, neatly finished, and fitted up. The Government House is an indifferent frame building, but the grounds around it are tastefully ornamented with a profusion of beautiful flowering trees and shrubs. The Hospital is a large, but heavy erection, but from the zeal and talent of the medical gentlemen who attend it, of inconceivable ad- vantage to the country. There is in the hospital a beau- tiful model of the new university which is expected to be erected rear this city ; and a preparation of singular value in its museum, more curious even than that living wonder, the Siamese Twins, — two children with distinct beads and trunks, united together in the lower extremity. The Upper C inada College is a plain, but spacious '■ \ VPPER CANADA. 175 building, or rather series of buildings, with fine gravelled "^valks and neat shrubberies in front. This admirable in* stitution stands a proud monument of the paternal affec* lion which Sir John Colborne felt for the Province ; a- midst every discouragement he persevered until he suc- ceeded fully in establishing it, and it will doubtless long remain an honor to the Province, and the means of diffu- sing the highest branches of knowledge to hund*'eds of her sons. There are several teachers belonging to it, distinguished for their attainments, and at the annual ex- aminations several of the scholars by their merit and ta- lent have rejected high honor on the establishment.— < There are many benevolent and patriotic institutions in this city, amongst which one is particularly deserving of honorable mention, — the Society for relieving emigrants coming from Great Britain totally destitute, and procur- ing immediate employment for them. Several societies of a similar description have been formed in different parts of the Province, and I am happy that the District of Gore, behindhand in no good word or work, has esta- blished a like institution. There are many beautiful stores in Toronto ,* the hardware store of Messrs. Ridout & Co.— tae glass and china store of Shuter & Co., and lately a stperb druggist's establishment by Mr. Becket, equal to any thing on the continent of America, has been opened. From the spirit and enterprize of the inhabitants of To- ronto, there is every reason to believe that a rail road coniuiunication will be formed between the city and Lake Huron, via. Lake Simcoe ; the ground is now being sur- veyed for the purpose, TORONTO AND I.AKE HURON RAIL ROAD. The Company chartered lait winter, to coostruct this Rail Rotd, art niftkiDg vigorous exertions to commeoce the work. IT" Nil I I 176 UPPER Canada. At a meeting lately held in this City, X15U0 was subsciibcd by ^ gentlemen, which is to be paid down to defray the expenses of sUrveyat It was Resolved by said meeting) that a person should go lniniedi>itc'ly to the United States, to employ one of the most skilful and experien- ced Engineers that could be found, to come and explore the country between the City of Toronto and Lake Huron, in order to determine the best route, and the most advantageous place for it to terminate. I am surprised that the Company could not find a man possessing talents, knowledge and experience enough in this Pi'ovince to hiy out a Rail Road, and show where it should terminate, that would prove the most profitable. I thought that I would see if I could lay out the plan, and determine the best route for said Rail Road to run, and where it should terminate. I have done so, and find that the best way, foC the interests of all that may be therein concerned, and to secure the trade from the United States that will pass this way from New York to Michigan, aad the western parts of Upper Caoada and the United States. First, and main projection, is to run in nearly a north western di<> rection from the city of Toronto, and is to terminate at the mouth of . Shawgene river, which empties into Lake Huron, about 60 miles north of Goderich. There is an island in front of the river, which will form an excellent break-water, and will assist in forming a good harbour. — • The distance on the line from this city to Lake Huron, will be one hundred and twenty miles. It lies in a direct line from Oswego to the far distant west, and nearly so with the head of Sagana Bay ; and a rail road from the head of this Bay, about 60 miles in length, will strike the centre of Michigan Lake. The lands at the head of Sagana Bay, have been settling for many years past, and it is very probable^ for that state, that it will become the seat of government. The country on both sides of Michigan Lake, is rapidly increasing in population," dsc, and the country on the south side of lake Superior, will, in a few years be settled, so that by this line of communication, the principal part of the trade, &c., of that vast country will flow dowc this way tjo Montreal and New- York. The object of this rail road will be to unite the interests and efforts of the inhabitants of Lake Ontario, bf making a short rail road from the head of the Lake, to the main rail road in the towNship of Caledon, which will be about forty miles long. The distances from the lake, and from this city to the junction in Caledon, will be equal. Another branch can be made from Caledon to Penet- angushine, making the whole distance from this city, or the head of the lake, by Caltdon, only 100 miles to Penetangushine. Also another few ip«l y tp uite liing in The don, net- ftbe )ther brbhch thay be made to tho town of Goderich, to unit* with itie main l-ail road. It will be About forty miles in length. The main rail road will pass through a beautiful and fertile country. Which lieii between Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Huron, tb6 greatcir part of which is as yet a complete wilderness^ !) ' .i .'>,..: The advantage of this great rail road running through such an ex- tensive country will be very great. It will be the means of inducing emigrants to settle between this city and Lake Huron ; and the coun- try will bo enriched by this much wanted and important enterprize. Toronto, July 23, 1^36. JOHN SMITH. P. S. — Since I conipl< ted the ubove« I am creditably informed therti is Agond harbour at present at the mouth of the river Shawgene ; — ' there is a ledge of rocks about six iV-et high above the water, running from the shore around the mouth ol the river, in the form of a semi' tircle, and deep water inside. J. S. ENGINEER'S REPORt. 't. W. Higham, the Engineer, has reported that having made a re>' tonnoissance of the line of road from Toronto to Lake Huron, he findd the route quite as favorable as he had been led to expect, thai from Toronto to the Oak Ridges, a distance of from 25 to 30 milesj the in- clination ofthe road will be from 20 to 25 feet, through the Oak Ridg- eif^ a distance of from 7 to 10 miles, the inclination wiP vary from 20 to 40 feet per mile, that the certain length of the road will be flfom 75 to 90 miles, according to the point on Lake Huron, whgre it may be fbund most desirable to terminate the kail Rotid, and that the entire expense of every description, excepting only the purchase ofthe City property required will not exceed ten thousand dollars per mile; Osgoode Hall is a very handsome brick buildings con- taining excellent accotnmodation for the students in law, and for the barristers who come froria the country to To- ronto during term. There is a council room or convo- cation chamber, and an admirable library. The Upper Canada Bank is a line stone edifice, and the Canada Company have a new house for transacting their business. There is an excellent Market-house, surrounded with sub- stantial buildings, the Mechanics' Institute hold their meet- ings in one of those forming the market square — the mu- nicipal authorities meet in another — a commercial reading 23 I! i! 17d VPPLR CANADA. room is at one corner, where the English, Irish, Scotch, and Colonial papers, Magazines, Reviews, ^c. are taken in, and to which strangers can readily obtain access through the courtesy of any of the subscribers. The mark- ets are most excellently supplied with meat, tish, poultry, eggs, vegetables, butter and fruit. The Episcopal Church is a heavy, large, and substantial building, sufficiently ca- pacious for the accommodation of 4,0C0 persons. It is very chastely and elegantly finished, in the interior. T'he Catholic Church is a large and handsome building, near the Don bridge ,* it is insufficient for the accommodation of the numerous Catholics in this city and its vicinity. The Presbyterian Church is a brick building, and pos- sesses a large and most respectable congregation ,* — the Methodists have a also a very spacious brick chapel in this city ; — the colored inhabitants of Toronto have also an African church which is well attended — it is very gratify- ing to bear testimony to the good conduct of the negroes residing in this city — they have most of them escaped from Slavery, they are well protected and kindly used, and appear to evince a sense of gratitude at their treat- ment, and show that they duly appreciate the inestimable blessing of freedom : — the streets are wide and well laid out, and owing to the indefatigable exertions of George Gurnett, Esq., are now well drained, alike enhancing the health and comfort of the inhabitants : — there are many excellent taverns, some of the first rate character. Four newspapers of unquestionable talent are printed in this city — the Courier, Albion, Patriot, and Christian Guardi- an. Immediately adjoining Osgoode Hall is a splendid avenue of great length and remarkable beauty, intended as the entrance to the King's College. A fine hawthorn hedge, a great rarity in this Province, skirts the bounds : between it and the spacious gravel walk, is a deep shrub- VPPER CANADA. 179 berry, on both sides, planted with the choicest trees, the gentle waving acacia, the graceful horse-chesnut, the flowering catalpa, the variegated locust, the dark green balsam, and the elegant cypress. The private houses of some of the principal inhabitants of Toronto are large and lofty, and display great taste. There is a constant intercourse kept up with all parts of the Province and the States, during the summer months, by stean. boats, and it is a very lively city, at the sitting of the Provincial Parliament, in the winter, if the sleighing is good. The literati of Toronto have established an admirable Literary Society presided over by the Attorney General, whose varied accomplishments and amenity of manners render him an ornament to society, and specially patronized by the present Lt. Governor, SirF, B. Head — himself a dis- tinguished contributor to the literature of the day. There is a plan now in contemplation and likely to be carried into effect, to light up the city with gas. The population of the city of Toronto amounts to 10,000 persons. There are many large manufactories at Toronto, specified with great accuracy in the Toronto and Home District Calen- dar, amongst them may be mentioned a large foundry, dnd a coach builder's. The stores are very numerous, — some of the merchants in immediate connection with Sheffield, Birmingham, and the potteries in England. The steam boat Great Britain is considered the most splendid on the lake ; it is of great dimensions, and con- tains as many conveniences as a fashionable hotel. The cabins are long and broad, and furnished in the most sumptuous manner ; that appropriated to the use of the ladies has sofas, mirrors, and every other luxury. It runs between Prescott and Niagara, touching at the intermedi- ate ports. Its size prevents its passage through the canal which connects the lake with Burlington Bay ; ii cannot m II i I 180 UPPER CANADA. therefore Stop at I^amilton, but the Cobourg, the St, George, the Oakville, the Britannia, the Traveller, and other steanaers pass freely through the Canal to HamiU ton. During the season, there is intercourse with EiamiU ton from Toronto, twice daily. The lake called Bin*- lington Bay is always frozen up in winter; during the last winter the ice was three feet five inches in thickness ; but the following account of the difficulty which the Tra- veller steam boat met with in the large lake, in the month of March 1836, is without a parallel. The 'Traveller,' Captain Sutherland, arrived her- on Wednesday from Niagara, after experiencing no ordinary difficulties. On leaving Niagara on Monday, she encountered such a solid body of drift ice and snow, as rendered it impossible to proceed. On Wednesday she fortunately got an opening in this mass; but immediately after, and when all obstruction was thought to be overcome, it was found that what appeared the calm surface of the water was a solid body of ice., about two inches thick, through which, forabout fiAeen miles, the boat had to force her way. When about the middle of the lake it was con- fiidered necessary to examine the vessel, to ascertain whether she was sustaining any damage. During this stop, our informant, with others of the passengers, and the captain, left the boat and went upon the ice. The merchants of Toronto last year addressed the Bri- tish Government, praying them to make a treaty with the United States, with a view to get goods by New- York free of duty, Judge Turvill, an eminent member of Congress, for the County of Oswego, spoke of the Address of the Merch- ants of Toronto to the British Government, in the House of Representatives at Washington, in June of this year, in the following manner : Sir— rThe objects embraced in this address are of great importance to this Government, as well as to the Province of Canada— and there can be no doubt, therefore, that the existing obstacles to the commerce will soon be removed, since it is so decidedly for the interest of both IQqntries to accomplish that object. In the United States, publiq at" UPPER CANADA. 181 tention hat not yet been directed to this important subject. But little is known uf this Province, nnd its natural advantages are not under- stood. Sir, the peninsula of Upper Canada, in location, in fertility of soil, and salubrity of climate, is not surpassed by any portion of tho United States. It is true that this Province is now comparatively a wilderness, having a very spare population ; but still the spirit of en- terprise, as exhibited in works of internal improvements,, would do honor to an older and wealthier country. The Canadians have wisely adopted the plan ofuniting and using, wherever practicable, the great water-coursesof the country. Their effort has been to improve upon the works of nature, and not vainly attempt to outdo them. By means of the Rideau canal, a steamboat navigation has already been opened to Lake Ontario and Montreal, and the improvements now in progress on the St. Lawrence will open another communication between the same points for steamboats of the largest class, thus making a good ship navigation from Lake Ontario to the. ocean. The Welland Canal,' which will soon be enlarged and made permanent, now atlbrds a sloop navigation between lake Erie and lake Ontario. A rail road is now being consu t^ted between Hamilton, on lake Ontario, and Port Dover on lake Erie. And the day is not far distant when lakes Huron and Ontario will be united by a ship canal Sir, it requires but a mere glance at the map of Upper Canada to convince any one that, when these improvements shall have I n completed, when the vast resour- ces of that Pro\ ince shall have bo. developtrd, there will be an esten< sive commerce carried on upon lakt- Ontario, a portion of wliich will find its way down the St. Lawrence to Montreal ; and should Og« densburgh be connected with Vermont and New Hampshire by means of rail roads, a portion will take that direction to Boston, while all destined to New York must pass through the Oswego and Erie canals to the Hudson. The road from Toronto, along Yonge Street, to Lake Simcoe, passes through a fine and well cleared country : the first two m'l-o ire excellent, being Macadamized — the rest tolerable. TUORNHILL. Twelve miles fi-om Toronto, on this road, is the beau- tiful village of Thoruhill, surrounded by excellent farms in the finest cultivation. The population is nearly 300 ; there is a neat church, good tavern, several stores, Sic, 1*, M 1 1-1 I: If if M :^'^n '■». IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. i /j & % 1.0 !f 1^ 1^ I.I 1.25 u Hi 2.0 us ^1^ Photographic Sdences Corporation •s? v <^ c\ \ 6^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ■^^ (/. 6^ '*■;■. "V 1%' ■ mt 183 VPPER CANADA. and surrounded by good roads. Six nniles fnrdier U New Market, delightfully located, surrounded witli res- pectable settlers, and every accommodation tor niiliSf stores, &c. Four miles beyond is Holland Landing on Lake Simcoe, from whence round the lake to Barrie is 28 miles : from Barrie to Cold water 12, to Oro, 13 to Oril- fia, and 14 more to Cold water, a most beautiful tour through the townships skirting the lake. A little above Montgomery's tavern the road branches off to the township of Mark ham; and the village of Rees- orville, which is distant about twenty miles from 'J oron- to. It contains two or three taverns, some stores, good private houses, and is surrounded by fine farms, well wa- tered by a small, but meandering river, called the Ilouge, which falls into Lake Ontaiio, in the township of Pick- ering. STOFFERSVILLE. ^^ Eight miles beyond Markham is the beautiful village of Stoufville: the country to it and around it, interesting in the extreme and in the finest state of cultivation. The population of Stoufville is about 300. It is a fact worthy of mention that there are streams taking their rise between twenty and thirty miles from Toronto, falling into lake Huron, and then after pursu- ing their courses several hundred miles through Lake St. Clair — the rivers St. Clair and Detroit — Lake Erie-* down the Falls of Niagara, pass in front of the city of Toronto again. The road from Reesorville to Toronto, by Scarboro^ is through a dense forest for sooie miles — ^in the spring and fall, it is scarcely passable, but in progress of settle- Dient — there are several villages along this route. A few luiles from Montgomery's tavern, on Vonge-street, the Qak Ridges commence, a very elevated tract of land for UPPER CANADA. J85 some miles, extending a considerable distance, but sandy, the soil is indifferent, but the roads good. Beyond this, towards lake Simcoe, the country is rich and fertile: V In the township ol Vaughan on the left of Yonge Street the country is well settled, churches, chapels, schools, mills, taverns, extensive farms, large orchards, good houses, and fair roads throughout. In the next township, King, the portion contiguous to Yonge St., is well settled — the soil excellent, and the timber of Majestic growth. There is in it a pretty and increasing village called King. The next township is Whitchurch, and it is admirably cleared, well settled, and doing much business: it possess- es some excellent houses, extensive farms, well planted orchards, neat gardens large saw-mills, grist-mills, with several manufactories. The village of Newmarket in this township is well watered, and bears the character of a highly cultivated and productive country. About five miles from Newmarket, in the township of East Gwil- Hmbuiy, is a large and well built village called Hope: — the road from Newmarket to it is exceedingly tortuous, and the village, which lies in a complete hollow, at the termination of a very steep hill, is seen quite suddenly, and imparts a most picturesque and pleasing appearance to the scene. It is celebrated from some motley sect hav- ing fixed themselves in it, headed by a David Wilson, a sort of Mohammed —who, although possessing an exten- sive harem is not quite so jealous of its houris, as his il- lustrious predecessor in concupiscence, *• holding all things in common." It is not a little singular that that demi-semi-any-thing-arian, W. L. Mackenzie, should dis- cover in this ranting, ravaging sect every thing in ac- cordance with his views of religion and morality. What with the influence of music, and the still softer attractions — the founder of this new sect has managed to induce 'V "" ■ ■ , ■ " • •■; ■ ■" » * "'I. -, ." ' ■' --3--*,-- ■ - T- ^.j -"-^ h*s" .fer-t'. ''>V .184 UPPER GANAtiA* tnaoy fanners to dispose of their farms, to take aii dcrd lot in this new village of Priapus. Alas ! how melandui^ \y to contemplate a man forming a religion on the wreck of morality, and increasing the number of his votaries by holding out to them the unrestrained indulgence of their libidinous appetites. East and North Gwillimbury Is well settled, and the "tountry round lake Sinicoe^ particularly the delightful township of Georgina^ is rapidly improving. Whitchurch is a beautiful township, standing un a commanding, ele- vated piece of table land, and abounding in fine farms, with good houses and orchards. Bogart's mills are very extensive, turned by a copious stream-^several, houses are built in the vicinity. The townships of Brock and Ux-- bridge contain some ^ne tracts of timber land, and several extensively cleared farms. The new settled township of Tecumseth abounds in good land and offers fine opportu-< nities for hard working and industrious settlers t(» locate themselves with advantage, land being cheap, good and abundant — there is a church and school-house in thi^ 5»*; township. Since 183?, has been generally taken up, and mucJi set-* tied — it is well watered by nearly fifty streams, running into the lake, with abundance of power for machinery. A grist and saw-mill has been erected ; the general cha- racterof the settlers are Highland and Lowland Scotch^ The Highland settlement partakes of the native character of the Highlands, a beautiful undulating country of lofty hills and dale — the timber various but of fine growth ; there are roads open to the Lake and Narrows-^distance from Toronto, 37 miles to the landing— bounded by Vespra, Medonte and Orilla. Many officers are settled on the lake shore ; the land is good and rapidly increasing ce by ed '' bppER CAi^AbA; « 0$ in Vaiiic. Frurii the narrows to Coldivelter settlements are every where forming. The country ^bout Petietan- guishine on lake Huron, is remarkably healthy, the win- ter roads to it, crossing lake Simco^^ excellent; Iii the summer months it is delightful to persons who are fileased and entertained by the wild grandeur and simplicity of Mature. The pure and transparent waters of the beauti* fui bay, and the verdant foliage of the vast woods which adorn irs sloping sliores, are objects of great beauty i thci military establishment, and the new village, Embowered iVith noble woods On the east side of the harbour, form a a very picturesque scene : the land is not godd, from thd ({uantity of Stoned, and the nature of the soil being sandy; The land in the townships of Flos and Medonte is excel- lent. Vespra is settling and contains some choice land— ^ the whole of the beautiful country round lake Simcoe is ivell worthy of inspection. "^ ^ Another route froni Toronto is through the Pine Woods to Farr's Mills, and thence aiong Dundas street to ICiobicoke, whei'e a road turning to the right extends through the Gore of Toronto to the townships of Albion, Adjala, and Tecumseth, the road skirting on the western ends of the townships of Vaughan and King. Within the last two years, the improvements on this route are surprising, the country scarcely retaining one feature of its former appearance : the roads are excellent — the pine woods well cleared in some parts, and tastefully thinned but in others,— new houses of superior character and taste built, and new taverns erected. At Etobicoke, a road branches off to Nottawasaygo, by Mono Mills, through a beautiful country, but only at present partially cleared; Land of the finest quality and cheap. Ihe Gore of Toronto contains some large farms* and is in general fine land; —the river Humber and a few largt 24 1 1 186, Wfi>UR CAfiAttA* creeks pass through it on their way to the fake^ Thtf township of Albion contains very excellent land^ the greater part finely timbered : uunterous streams, with good falls intersecting ; the township is rapidly settling and very prosperous. There are several large farms iii rapid cultivation, also saw-mills and grist-raiUs for ibff accommodation of the settlers. > ; r ^ j , '^Mackenzie, the most designing, the most tortuous,^ and the most leprous enemy of British institutions, that the fiends of disaffection and sedition ever inflicted on Upper Canada has been indignantly hurled from that station which he so long filled to his own shame and the dis- of his supporters." This man spoke thus of the settlers in the fine township of Albion. "One Iwlf of the settler? in Albion are English, and one half Irish ; there is not ft more spirited township, for its size, I believe, on the con- tinent of North America. They love their native land; they pray for its prosperity, and that the downfall of its enemies and theirs may be faiistened.^ I feel happy also to add my testimony to their merits. During the last e- lection, they almost to a man voted against this shallow and unceasing disturber of the public peace ; following the example of the citizens of Toronto, who, disgusted with his antics and tyranny when mayor of that city, kicked him out of the council at the following election : the brave boys of Albion in imitation of that exam^ pie, contributed to the downfall of their enemy, and the enemy of the Province, by depriving him of a seat in the House of Assembly. 'Y: ■ ■-^. ...■■..'■ -^-i, '-■:?/,, ^ There is also another road from Toronto, immediately skirting the lake, through the Credit Woods f the road is excellent, the farms well cultivated, the view of the lake deligtoful, and it is the nearest route, by several milesy tqp fiamilton and the surrounding country. > "'* ■ ,^ VPPER CANADA. 187 Along the whole line of road from Toronto to Ndson by Dundas street the country is well settled and exten- lively cleared : the road passes through the townships of Toronto/frafaigar and Nelson, — there are many large mills and factories turned by the powerful streattis which pass through these townships on their route to the Lake. On the Credit, a village has been built in a most pleasing situation, called Springfield, and but a few miles from it another called Streetsville, both containing many good houses, taverns, stores, and surrounded by large farms well cleared, and excellently cultivated. At the mouth of the Credit a harbour has been formed at which the steam lioais touch, passing to and from the head of the lake. — Many village lots have hern sold, some buildings erected and being the nearest port to Sti'eetsville, Springfield^ and the contiguous country, will probably become a place of consequence. From the Credit to Streetsville is 11 miles — thence 11 to Chinguacousy, 8 farther to Stanley's^ Mills, and then 1 1 to Albion, a delightful ride, through a fine agricultural district, and well worthy the observa- tion of persons intending to settle in the country. At the back of Dundas Street, are the townships of Es- quesing, Chinguacousy, Erin, Caledon, and others but very partially settled, stretching towards Lake Huron. — £squesing has some large farms on it, well cleared, — and churches, schools and a post-office : — the land is generally fine, but not well watered. Two villages have been recently laid out in this township, and from its nu- merous settlers, they are likely to prove very useful. Land is still to be obtained cheap. It is a desirable location. Chinguacousy is almost a continued settlement — the lands are rather swampy, but the soil excellent. Caledon stands much more elevated, in some parts mountainous, anil supposed to abound in coal. In this township are • I Hi 11^8 VPPER CANADA. the fine fall? of the River Credit, in the midst of a mosf romantic and lovely woodland country ; there is a superb aiid extensive view from one of the hills near th^ falls of the Credit, from which, lake Ontario, and the rich valley |)etween it, may be seen ; — there are algo some beautiful natural meadows in this neighborhood. There are many small and lovely lakes ^n this to\ynship, surrounded by trees of the finest growth and beautiful varieties, in one^ called the Green lake, a (ish of exquisite flavor is caught, peculiar to that lake. Caledon is extremely healthy and a most desirable location for an industrious person with small means. In Erin there are some extensive clearings, the soi^ is good, principally sandy loam, the timber is very supe- rior, buf the roads are bad. The township of Whitby is well settled, and possesses a good harbour, on the lake, called Windsor, the land is. of fine quality, and there are some beautiful farms, dispers- ed throughout the township, particularly qn the shore of the lake. The township of Darlington is extensively settled, the land heavily timbered, but of first quality ; there are two villages in this township, one likely to be a large place, Bowmansville — there are several churches and schools U\ this township. The township in the rear is Cartwrigh^ : a river running from the Sturgeon lake, in th^ Newcastle District, is navigable to the centre of it. The township of Scarborough contains some fine land, and some very broken tracts — it is generally very high and hilly, and fronts the lake. The township of Pickering is well settling, and con- tains some fine land, and well watered- Mr. Fothergjll fias un extensive and most valuable museum of natural furiosities, i^t bis r^sWence, in this township, which he baa; VFrnR CANADA^ \$9 poUectfd with great industry, and the most refined taste, lie is a person ofsuperior acquirements, and ardently de- voted to the pursuits of natural philosophy. This town- ship fronts qn lake Ontario, and has the fine township qf Uxbridge in the rear. A new village has been laid out, find is in course of furnung, named Brougham, in com- pliment to the learned and illustrious individual of thai name. MuLMUH — Beautifully watered by fine branches of the ^^ottawaysaga river, along the second branch pf that river sqme excellent land to th^ north of it — to the south of it, the land is thrown into wave like ridgea apparently the work of an earthquake, and the summit of the mountain north of the same branch, has evident marks of its being a volcanoe at a period not very remote, several craters are still td be seen, the prin- pipal one a pond of dead water strongly impregnated with sulphur. On lot number 23, in the same line, is a ridge of linie and free stonci which pt a distance, i^ppears like the remains of demolished fortifications. Where the shock split the rocks and removed the sides to some dist- ance, it looks Ijke subterranean vaults, and several of the fissures t^re exceedingly dangerous-r-mostof the sand stones are slightly vitrified ; from this ridge a fissure of about 3 rods wide continues towards th& west, until it is lost in v^ swamp in the adjoining towoaihip— it has alt the appearance of the trough of a river, and along it are several round cavities, from ten to twenty rods wide, which are evidently points a( which the electric fluid escaped to the clouds, as the earth thrown out. pf the cavities form a brim considerably higher than the surrounding l()nd. Immense beds of marie are found throughout'the whole of thi^ and the adjoining township of Melancthon, which also contains large quantities of excellent land, occasionally very hilly, the timber of the finest growth, and abundantly supplied with atroama of living water. Amaranth — Well watered, some portions finely timbered, and worth ci^ltivatioQ — large swamp* and many extensive beaver meadowa. Mono — Beautiful land — maple, birch, beech, elm and basswood — very 'extensive beaver dams — occasional swamps of fir, cedar, and hemlock— some beautiful streanis — land undulating — fine valleys— pherry, butternut, and whitewood — many good sites for mills — 1st and 2nd concessions excellent land — watered by a branch of the Nottaway- saga river, in rapid progress of settlement. .^^ . MKKtiN— There are some admirable tracts pf land, and between ^ 190 tJ^PER CANADA. •nd Sunnidale, there ruDt • most lovely branch of the NotiawaymgA river, clear, deep and rapid. Tkcumbbth — Maple, eliu, basewood and alder, interspersed with occasional cedar, fir and hemlock— well watered — some swamps-^ general character of the land excellent-^'towards Luther veryjswampy— Luther so much «o as to oppose its suecessful survey. CoiLLiNowooD — Some lofty mountains, fine streams, and good tim« ber-'^tbei'e is a defieiency of pioe— land cheap aod of fine quality, but ^et very paftiftlly settled. St. Yincxnt-- Like Gollingwood, abounds in fine streams, lofty mountains, excellent timber, rich valleysi but is also without pine— l9)ere 9re 9t present but few settlers. •'. -. T-if-J^f -A^i ^-Vi.v: V. THE NIAGARA DISTRICT, Independently of its being the longest settled in the Province, and containing some beautiful land, is peculiarly and admirably situated, lying between the two lakes, Erie and Ontario; bounded by the Ni- pigara river, by which it is separated from the United States ; having jriie Welland Canal passing through it, connecting the navigation of the |wo lakes together ; and a Rail Road, now in progress from Chippawa Co Queenston, forming also a land communication between the lakes. COUNTY OP LINCOLN. >• TowBtbipv. Caltivatad aeret. TownofNii^ara, 670 Niagara, township, Thorold, Grimsby, Clinton, Bertie, Scamibrd, Gaiosiioroagh, Lomb, Felbara, Crowbttd, WilloDgbby, Humber^on, Wainfleet, Canborough, Caietor, iliranthiimi Unoultirated acres. Ananment, Population. 493 £43,900 2,116 9,459 11,656 33,378 2,067 e,156 12,863 31,335 1,985 9,327 16,618 29,012 907 10,167 13,742 39,406 1,779 11,085 21,429 34,913 2,163 10,039 11,631 39,358 2,464 6,851 12,782 20,516 1,543 6,160 9,107 22,330 1,227 6,970 16,547 22,512 1,459 6,485 10,026 14,269 935 4,318 9,117 12,846 833 4.422 14,017 16,239 1,231 4,083 16,823 13,254 892 2,432 12,947 9,231 604 1,567 6,786 5,820 446 9,851 12,30^ 48,323 3.297 ttPtn. CANADA. * 191 ffafdinwnd, Itaiiihanit Walpole, Duiyd, Cayuga, Moultonr COVNTY or yjthDtMAtiD^ ;<'-:■ . I; 1,3074 2,763 2,66» 367 7,629 1,13» 11,417 9,766 11,145 3,096 460 4,542 6;661 11,62SI 9.905 1,544 3,947 6,365 693 552 683 201 296 426 Horses, 5^721— Four year old* Oxen, 4,316^Milch Cows, 10,389— Horned Cattle, from two to fou-r years old, 3,794. The village of Grimsby, in the township of thai namcv is delightfully situated under the brow of a lofty mountain^ beautifully wooded to its summit — the 40 mile cfeek runs through it, fuming several mills, and falls into the lake immediately below it, where a harbour has been fomned at its mouth. There are two churches in the village,' several pretty residences, some large fine orchards, exten- sive and well cleared farms surroundiitg it, giood storesy and two taverns. A few miles farther towards Niagara, is another village, called Beamsville, also containing stores and taverns. A portion of the township is swampy,- but the land generally good— ^soil clay and yellow loanu The 20 mile creek, which falls into the lake, in the town- ship of Louth, waters the back part of the township, and supplies several mills. The township of Louth has several* mills turned by the 20 mile creek — it is tolerably settled, and contains some fine land and good timber : there are' salt-works near the junction of the roads which pass ovef the Short Hills to the Falls. The township of Granthant is better settled than any in the District, and contains abundance of excellent land, well watered, with the Wef^ land canal running through it. There are many min» and manufactories in it. ' . , 'J. ST. CATflAKlNESr. ' St. Catharines has always flouriBhdd-~ita rapid growth is a proof of diia; but the. excilament which has prevailad in regard to the pur- cbaao and|pale of village lots, exhibits the prosperity of the pl«ce ia m *>;:-! 1 1 ' 1912 ^PPEit CANADA; hew and iiidporUht light Within a short time, a number of lot^ liaVi chaoged hands at prices whiich some time - go, would have heen c(fii- Bid«red utterly chimerical. In some inetuncea, we believe, $6U \*(ii foot in front, have been paid for ordinary village lo(s with no houses on them. Among other evidences of improvement there are now twd large mills in progress of erection — a niiniber of new dwelling houses and stores, are building— a rail road between this place and Niagara is in contemplation — arid; in short; a spirit of enterprise is manifesting itself in every department of business, that places St. Catharines in the fi'OBt raak of improving places in the Province; Tw ( t It is situated not only welt for business, Jbeing on tfic W^lland (ianal, but is surrounded with fine land, the soil b1acl( and yellow loam, and presents a most pleasing va- riety of gentle hill and dale. The population of Saint Catherines is about 700 persons :— there are three church- es, several taverns, and a school. The Welland canal empties itself into lake Ontario, about three miles from St^ Catherines, at Port Dalhousie. , . • . The pretty new village of St. Davids, in this tdwnship, four miles from Queenstoii, is situated in roost a delight'^ ful spot, embracing a great variety of picturesqne and ro- mantic scenery, being on a small stream called the 4 milei creek, from the undulating nature of the land — the extent of richly cultivated farms — the appearance of the peach and apple orchards — the numerous neat cottages, and the V/eJl selected sites for machinery. It was thfe residence of Sir Peregrine MaidaiKl, a former Governor of the Pro- vince. , •■ :r. ..' !. t .,...■• - The Town of Niagara, at Fort George, in the township of Niagara, is finely situated on the shore of the lake, at the mouth of the Niagara river, and opposite Youngstown, ftnd is gene ally a scene of great bustle and gaiety. It Ims three churches, several taverns^ larg€ wharves^ a spa- dcms dry dock and harbour, and some handsome edifices around k. The population is upwards of 2,000. Most It pa- ices lost tPPElt CANADA. 195 bf the steam boats ruiiuiogon Lake Ontario stop at Nia- gara ; this year, some have run to Queenstou and Lewis- town. '1 he Transit, a beautiful boat performs the voy- fege between it and Toronto daily; ■, The township of Stamford is a beautiful townsliip,^: ]ts soil and timber ti^ excellent ; it Is well watered : i^^ bounded by the Niagara KiviEiir and the Chippawa Creek^ and contains 3i)0 houses, 4 villages, 8 churches, 10 schools, 8C taverns, 6 mills and manufactories. There are many iexcelletlt substantial buildings in tb^s township — some of them handsome : the roads also are very tolerable round this neighbourhood. A i'ail road is in progress froiri Chippawa to Queenston, connecting the St. Lawrence at t^ucenston, with the Chippawa River, head of the Well* and Canal and lake Erie ; and it is also in serious con- templation to carry a chain bridge across the St. Law- irence, below the falls of Niagara. The great wonder of this township, and the world, are the celebrated falls, Where the mighty mass of the concentrated waters of lakes Eric, St. Clair, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, rush down a precipice of 168 feet into a river three quarters bf a mile in width, the estimated quantity of water pass- ing over it in a minute being 1 13,510,000 gallons. The description of these falls have been so often given that it ivould be presumptuous to attempt a laboured deScriptiod bf them, suffice it to say, that the most brilliant imagina- tion can form no idea of the grandeur of the scene. The following description by a gentleman who recently Visit- ed them is in complete consonance with my impressions f *'I stood by Niagara. The grandest image of Poi^et that nature has produced was before me. Of Power, I say, for with that are associated all my ideas of the sub-' iimity of Niagara. It is the volume of waters that it pours/ and not the height from which they fall — h is theactcr-' 25 1 1 trPPER CANADA. 1^4 iBulatiaii of the mighty mass, and not the poshion vst which accident has placed it, that strikes and ovcF' whelms yoii— it is the fact of whole oceans being brought before the eye at one glance, and not the circumstance uf their changing their Ie\'el, that gives its majestic character to this stupendous scene. It is to the image of Almighty Power —it is ta the type of Him who holdeth the waters* in the hollow of his hand, that the soul bows in humility orliftsitself in sublimated awe. Here is the spot of aM others upon the broad earth — and I have travelled it widely — where the nothingness of human pride comes- home upon the heart : where its hopes and its struggles — Its aspirations after good and its conflicts against evil- its dreams of distitKtion and its repinings at obscurity — lis hard wrestlings wkh the doom to which it is fated, sink into their native insignificance, when compared with the- operations of the immortal Mind that is for ever develop-' ing itself around us." The appearance of the falls, in the winter months, is* singularly striking ; embodied icicles like rocks, pendent irom the highest overhanging brink, the large mass of waters falling into a kind of grotto, created by accumu- lation of immense icicles from the foatn of the waterfall,^^ and partly covered with snow : — the magnitude of the stream, the height of the fall, the tremendous roar, and splendid diffusion of tlie spray, renders it a very interest- ing scene. The fallowing extracts from the Album kept at the Falls, may perhaps be amusing : they show with what different ideas the grandeur and sublimity of this scene is expressed — or rather what a fall there is from the sublime* to the ridiculous. BeButiful, beautiful, Niagara ! others may tell of thy angry vrateri, •r fiiel ih§ tublimity of thy scene ; but to me thou art eurpasaingly' mim OrPEa CAIfADA. 19^ beautiful, and uf thy various yet ceaseless beauty alone canl think or speak. Majesty and delicacy compose thy robe of loveliDess. Won- derful creation of God, flow on in thy undecaying magnificence, and io other aoula be thou the type of that infinite beauty which is **froa .everlasting to everlasting" the same. Bev. E. S. Garnbtt, August 1% 1834. Boston, Maiia, N NIAGARA. Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe Of terror and of beauty ; God hath set His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud Mantles around thy feet. And he doth give Tiiy voice of thunder powerto speak of Him Eternally ; bidding tl>e lip of man Keep silence, and upon thy rocky altar pour Incense of awe struck praise. Augusts, 1834. Lydia H. Sioournky. Niagara, Niagara — careering in its might, ' The fierce and free Niagara shall be my theme to-night ! A glorious theme — a glorious home, Niagara, are mine ; Heaven's fire is on thy flashing wave, it's thunder blends with thine. The clouds are bursting fearfully, the rocks beneath me quiver I But thou unscathed'ar't hurrying on, for ever and for ever. Years touch thee not, Niagara — thou art a changeless thing, For still the same deep r&undelay thy solemn waters sing. ACROSTIC. N ature's great masterpiece ! how feeble man I n vain essays of thee and thine to tell — A 11 wondrous as thou art — a mighty plan— 4Gr reat, glorious, grand and indescribable ! A nd fain would measure thee with pigmy spas t *«R efrain," each object cries— "Lay down thy rod, A nd look thro' Nature, up Ip Nature's God." August 18, 1834. frs. The waters of Niagara, 'Tis wondrous how they go, A tumbling from the rock above, Pown to the rocka below. 11 196 1--V ,:m>- UFFER CANADA. ' They've run this way, tliia many % day, And now to shiA the scene* ;!• I would suggest, just for a change. To have them run up strc^am. S. P. B, Niagara ! to thee * My spectacles I turn ! I s^e thy wateirs boil, As if all .... did burn, And Satan's imps, with ardqur hot. Were thrusting wpo(^ beneath the pof. O what a deaPning noise Thy tortur'd waters make i The thunders of thy voice Kept me all night awake : I could but hear the lumbering sound, When all were sunk in sleep profound. And then what clouds of spray Bedim my weakened sight ; And then, in light of day. Bring rainbows to my sight : Well might poor Snip thus make his note—. *'Jleni— What a place to spunge a coat I'^ And then, O what a vvaste Of water-power is here ! 'Twould move ten thousand water-wheela, And run them thro' the year I Well might the Yankee say — ••be still— Oh what a place to build a ipill." A. N. 0. It is said that the first impulse of the visiter, as he stt^nds on the verge of the precipice and glances across the n^ighty sheet of rushing praters, is often one of mingled surprise and disappointment While I cannot credit this of any but the most superficial observers, I may Remark that my 'first impressions' of the Falls were decidedly of that character. As we rushed through the 'Pavilion,' (1 think the house is fK> called^ though I took no note,) the broad sheet of the upper Niaga> fSfivhich here forms aln^ost a bay, came prominently in view, broken If^itrongly agitated by the rocks qver which the vast tfirrent ripplet !l >' mmm U?^PER CANADA. 19T fis it hurriefi to plunge headlong over the precipice. The view from the ground Hoor of the Hotel extends precisely tQ the actual verge of the abyss. Having had some ex.perience of the magnifying propensi* ty of traveilerd, and especially the historians of wonders, | w«a really for one nioment stunned by the impression that this was all qf the Ca- taract of Niagara, and that the 'perpendicular fall of one hundred and fiflty feel' was the fancy creation of some prose-poet of the Guliyer fa- mily which had been silently acquiesced in by succeeding vistera wba vrere ashamed to see less in the great cataract than, had been see^ b^*- fore (hem. The heavy dullness of a clouded autumn day, which com- pletely muffled the roar qf the waters, favored the momentary delu- sion, and it was not until a hurried descent by the zig'Zag path which leads down the steep though wooded declivity had brought me sud- denly to the verge of the torrent, that I was fully reassured that th* world of tarry-at-home travellers had not been egregiously imposed upon. . • . \ r;t . ,i lam not, I trust, eminently given to rhapsody; but if there be ano- ther spot on the face of the wide earth which commands so magnifio. cent a view as the table rock which overhangs the abyss of Niagara in the immediate vicinity of the cataract, I should very much like to visi^ it Let me attempt to give a faint idea qf this. Descending from the vast level plain above, which answers to the el- evation of Lake Erie, by the rude path already mentioned, you pass, quickly through a narrow strip of springy, swampy ground, covered mainly with bushes, and find yourself, almost before you are aware of its proximity^ within fifty feet of the mighty sheet, standing on a level with the surface ofthe river above the cataract, while its immense volume is poured perpendicularly over a ledge of rocks directly in front (o the right, and almost immediately beneath you. Intermediately in front rises the perpetual and palpable cloud of vapor from the surface ofthe boiling cauldron beneath, with the rainbow at intervals encir- cling its brow. Across the abyss and inclining to the lefl, rises Goat Island; while still farther to the left yet fairly in front ofthe awed and breatliless gazer, pours the torrent from the American side of the island, which would of itself be deemed a very considerable cataract and every way worthy of attention, were it not in the immediate vicin- ity and a portion of one of at least ten times its va(lume. The visiter at length pauses, fatigued but not satiated by his fixed and eager ga«e, and now his glance takes a wider scope, a^d includes the whole field of vision. He sees the migestic river come sweeping ^owRi in the |>ride of its scarce rivalled magnitude, towfurd tb« nw(i!^% 193 VTTZU CA3iAD.%. « ^v; The great magnitude and extent of the fall, with the perfect and harmonious gprandeur of every thing connected with it diminishes thtf imposing eil' ct of the cataract, so far aa its height alone is regiirded. t doubt that a majority of its visiters, throwing aside all prior knowled-g»' would adjudge the actual descent from the surface of the water abov« to that below at more than tiOy feet. It is only when you have descend- ed by the stair-case some two hundred steps, and find yourself still' some fifty feet above the level of tlie basin, that you obtain an adequato* Idea of the vast height of the fall. I shall not soon forget the sensations 1 experienced during my visit io tliis subterranean region. It was yet early in the morning when I reachedfihe' vi'cinity of the cataract, and found that not another persotF Itad made hfs aippearance, and even the house of the guide was etiU &st. As I had already determined on a derscent at this period, I did iiot hesitate, but wound quickly down the lingering stairway, and took l3te little path which conducts arounrl the projectionsof the overhanging rock to the sheet of the cataract, keeping «s far as possible above the edge of the basin. The mist Was not a remarkably genile one, to be« gin with, aided as it was by the rills which are precipitated from tlw cliff in a hundred streams at every rod of the progress. But it was not (ill I had passed the last projection, and found myself in the immediate presence of the descendmg sheet of water, that I was assailed by w furious and apparently perpetual tempest of wind and rain, against ivhich my amateur equipment of handkerchief and cloak were not ca]-' culated to afford any adequate protection. I looked to the column of fulling water, which visiters of the requisite nerve readily dash through* Ml their oil cloth dresses, preceded by a guide, and thence pass dry- shod between the water aitd the rock nearly to tho centre of the fall-— but the sun was not visible, and without it the darkness in thM suba*^ queous domain must bte resolvable by wine measure. The prospect; ahead, therefore, presenting nothing but wind and water, both of whiclr were sufficiently abundant on this side the curtain, I halted, protected my eyes as well as might be from the dashing storm for one h*ng and earnest gaze at the majestic column before and almost directly above Miefand then turned to retrace my steps, pretty thoroughly drenclied and quite resigned to a postponement of ray researches under the FftU# of Niagara to another opportunity. .;;_;. ,1., -.5^ iM? bi^PER CANADA. t. *. ^ BbSPEINSION BRIDCk ; , ... -^ ^^ The projectied work over the Niagara, is to be a chain suRpen&loJl bridge^ and will be a greater work of tlie kind, by far, than any other in the world. It has been supposed) by some, that these suspension, t>r pendant bridges, were a modern invention ; but they were known ait t»arly as the time of Scamozzi, the great architect of Venice, Indeed their use has been ■ * The verse, though rude and unharmonious is charac- teristic of the general feeling cf Upper Canadians towards General Brock. The Canadian Militia during the war between Groat Britain and the United States, displayed, the most enthusiastic zeal in defence of British suprema- cy ; they arose to defend their country and their homes, nor did they ever"*shrink from the contest whilst there was a shadow of success, and indeed, without exagger- ation, it may be said, they were mainly instrumental in securing it to the British Crown. They had always to contend against a much larger force, but were neverthe- less generally successful. ; . . The river Welland enters the Niagara at the village of Chippawa : it gives name to the canal, which connects the navigation of the two great Lakes, Erie and Ontario,; by its passsage round the Niagara Falls. The length of VPPCR CANADA. 205 aW\9 canal is about forty miles, commencing at Port Dal- housie in I^uke Ontario, and ending at Port Colborne, or Uravciiy Bay, in Lake Eric. It adh.'ls vessels of 125 tons hurtlien. A work of such immense and obvious u- tility sluiiilu have been finished like the Hideau Canal, instead of which the route was injudiciously '".hosen, through tiie pestilential swamps of Wainfleet, and the locks constructed of wood instead of stone. The conse- quence has been, that instead of proving, as it must have done, under more auspicious circumstances, a source of wealth, it has been constantly undergoing repairs, which have swallowed up all its tolls. Nevertheless great praise is due to its enterprising projector Mr. Merritt, who will yet succeed in establishing its success, especially if he is fortunate enough to be aided bv a few more of the blast- ings, of that incorrigible slanderer, and fabricator of false- hoods, the demagogue Mackenzie. **l have no means of ascertaining what quantity of mer- chandize passed through Oswego to Upper Canada during the last year, neither can I tell the amount of furniture which was sent to the upper lakes ; but the merchandize, including salt shipped from that port through the Welland Canal destined to the above States, amounted to 39,798,- 290 lbs." "The village of Thorold, Niagara District, adjoins the Welland Canal on the west and is seen from it, as is Lake Ontario, which is distant about eight miles. The situa- tion is most beautiful and salubrious, and from the flour- ishing state of the village, and its superior water privile- ges, must rapidly increase in value. In the village, there are two flouring mills, Ave saw mills, a carding and fulling mill, several stores, manufactories, mechanics, &c. It is surrounded by the most respectable villages in the District, being distant from Niagara 12 miles, Queenston m I't- p.; *-.I » ( 20<6 VPFER CANADA. 7» St. Davids 5, St. Catharines 4, Allanboroiigh 4, Port Robinson 6, Stamford 6, Drummondville 7, Ciiippawa 10, «nd the Falls 8." The township of Clinton fronts lake Ontario possess- ing a fine soil of rich yellow and black loam — near the t^ntre of the township the land is hilly, supposed to con- tarn lead mines. Mr. John Lee, of Toronto, petitioned that the Parliament might assist him in working the mine. He set forth that he had lately discovered a valuable mine of lead ore in the township of Clinton, and had, at his own expense, commenced mining operations, and succeeded Sn obtaining some fine specimens of lead ore, at a short distance below the surface, and had no doubt that the main body of the ore might be easily got at without much trouble or expense. He obtained a grant from the Go- vernment of the privilege of working the mine, and he prayed that a sum of money might be vested in the hands of Commissioners to enable him, in conjunction with his own resources, to bring the mine into successful opera- tion, the money to be repaid in five years. In this town- ship is a small cava from whence a spring issues, in which during summer a quantity of ice is formed, and which in winter is quite free from ice. The thirty mile creek runs through the township, but it is indifferently watered. - - **In the township of Clinton, in the Niagara District, there rs a small cavern in the side of the mountain, from the inner rocks of which ooze ■mall quantities of water. Two gentlemen, on whom I can rely, tell me that the water freezes in summer and dissolves in winter ; that as the weather grows cold in autumn and winter, the ice melts away, but as the spring opens it begins to freeze, and forms large icicles, so that by harvest, they may be conveniently used to make ice-water. We would be glad if some scientific person would give us a solution of this singular phenomenon. I think geologists are of opinion, that there are large bodies of nitre in the bowels of the earth, but how this can pro- duce so singular an effect is more than I can tell. If it could be made to appear that the water ia this cavern, or tliat connected with it, wat tifPEft CANADA. aOT higher in winter thin BUmmer, then I ehould think that the air might produce tlic effect by passing over large bodies of nitre, io those sub- terraneous passages wh ich at other seasons of the year are filled with water. But I am not naturalist enough, neither am I geologist enough to determine the correctness of the supposition I have made.'' 7 > . ., I FORT ERIE. ^ ' •. i . . At the head of the Niagara river, and 16 miles from Chippavva, is Fort Erie, a small village situate on a pretty BJope, surmounted by a fort, likely however to become a place of great importance from its contiguity to Black Rock and Buffalo, but more especially as it will be the termination of the great rail road, extending along the north shore of lake Erie from Sandwich, passing in line with the Talbot road, through the rich and flourishing Districts of London and the West* I^ort Erie is ia. the. township of Bertie. ^ . . r DUNNVILLE - Is situated on the north bank of the Grand River, five mites fro>.^ the entrance of the same into Lake Erie. In 1839 the Welland Canal Company constructed a dam across the river at this place for the pur- pose of raising the water to feed the canal on the highest summit level —the construction of this work was the signal for the commencement of a village. In the same year, Oliver Phelps, Esq., now of St. Ca- tharines, laid out the plot for the town, and shortly, thereafter the erec- tion of buildings commenced. Since that time the town has gradually increased until it has arrived to its present importance. Flourishing like a ''green bay tree," and enjoying the advantages and blessings of agriculture, commerce and manufactures, DunnvlDe now bids fair to be one of our first Provincial towns. There are now in the town, 7 merchant shops, 2 groceries, a post-office, a school-house, 6 public houses, 1 grist-mill, 2 blacksmiths, 3 resident physicians, 3 saw-mills, 1 clothing establishment, 1 bakery, 2 tailors'*shops, 2 shoemakers, 1 waggon maker,*! attorney, and 1 magistrate. About 100 buildings and between 3 and 400 inhabitants. The location of the town speaks volumes for its future greatness and importance; — situated as it is on the Grand River, Welland Canal and Lake Erie, it bids fair to be a great commercial emporium;— surround- ed as it is by a rich prolific.eountry , whose suriace^it becomisg yearly i ; 208 UPPER CANADA. r more cultivated, it promieea itself a great many blessiocrfl from agri- culture; favored as italso ia with couiitieBs hyiJriiulio privileges, it i)u* a certain prospect of bemgthe Manchester of Upper Canada. In consequence of the great fall of water at this place, we can confi- dentlyfassert that for manufacturing facilities, it far exceeds any town, in the country; — for here the whole of the Grand River, the largest in the Province, half a mile in width and 18 or 20 feet in depth can be brought to bear upon machinery by means of side cuts. Immediately below the dam the river is somewhat contracted, but very deep, and flows on in^peace and tranquility to mingle with the waters of Lake Erie five miles below. At the mouth of the stream there is yet the re- mains of the naval station, erected there during the last war. The sailors and marines as also the arms and ammunition have been long since removed and all that remains to tell the visitor where the huge leviathans of the lake spread their canvass to the breeze, or where the chivalry of Canada with firm resolve rallied around the banner of old England, are a few old dilapidated buildings and barracks whitened and bleached with the storms, and reeking in every passing gale, fit representatives of the destruction for which they were intended; — and being convincingevidence of the progress of time, and the final disso- lution of all things terrestrial. The bar in the mouth of the River is sufficiently deep to admit the largest vessel on the Lake to pass and proceed directly up to Dunnville. This is a remarkably fine harbor, and vessels in the greatest storms have entered with the utmost safety. Thetract of land between Dunnville and the Lake has until of late belonged to the Six Nations,, and consequently are not improved to a great extent, but since their sale by the Government, they are rapidly c^vancing in cultivation. There is also an excellent fishery at Dunn- ville; — while there we saw fish in great numbers drawn to the shores in seines. We saw with pleasure *hat two steamers are in progress of comple- tion, intended for thenavigrtion of our noble river, and sincerely hope, with the blessings of Providence, to have them gladden the view with their daily visits to our town. One of them, the Sir Walter Scott, has been upon the river during the past season, but owing to some cause not known to us, she proved very inefficient. She is now undergoing a lliorough overhauling, and will, we trust, be able to commence her trips from Dunville to Brantford so soon as the improvements on the river are completed. The other Steamer, the Dunnville, is being bui'tby Andrew Thomp- son, Esq. and bids fair to be the "lion of our waters.'* Our only fear UfPfitt CAMADA. 209. U that iielr size will not permit her to navigate the Grand RivisPt for al- though a vesuel of almost any size may pass in the centre of the stream, ye'i the necessary contraction of the excavation and locks would prevent them passing tli6 works of the navigation. The great frontier rail road, should it be constructed, would pas* through Dunnville, and cross the Grand River on the dam at that place. But as the past and present years have been noted for ^'bubble pro- jei'ts," we are doubtful as to the fmal issue of this work. The cpnti'ai location bf Dunnville is another convincing evidence of its future greatness. There are no less than six principal roads cen- tering to this plate. The roadtifronl Rainham, VValpdIe and Port Do- ver, the mouth of the river, Cayuga, Indiana, York and Caledonia^ Canborough and Smithville, and the Fort Erie and Niagara road. After indulging in the foregoing observations, we see no reason whjf Dutiville diould tiot be one of our first Proviocial towns> CAYUGAi t)n the 30th of April, 1835, I rode to see the liew set-* tlement of Cayuga, and was gratified to find that along the whole line of road, new settlements were forming, large clearings being niade, some of the best log houses 1 had seen in the coiiniry erected, surrounded with small, bui neat gardens, clearly indicating that the settlers were B^uropean?. At the point where you first strike the Grand River, a large tavern has been built, and lots been sold for the purpose of making a village. The ride along the banks of this river, to Cayuga, a distance of sixteen miles, is one of the most charming in the Province. The road runs parallel with and close by the river ; on both sides the country is well cleared and admirably cultivat- ed. Some trees of a majestic growth are left overhang- ing the stream, and the lovely islands, interspersed throughout the river, present an appearance of singular beauty. The foilage had attained about two thirds of its full developement, and was precisely in that stage of ten- der, yellowish verdure, when Spring, in ray view, wear* her most beautiful face. Nothing could exceed the bril* 27 liW^nppiRP piH|p|!piJ|li,„,^,iMj!lU, !U 210 Vt>t*Etl CANADA. liancy of the green carpet on the islands in the river, atid of some of the fields on its banks; nor have I any where else seen such a charming border of trees and grass, a» skirted the stream for several miles. Between these love- ly shores the river rolled iull to its brim, — smooth, un- iiroken, apparently a vast canal: — its still, soft waters moving on as calm as a mirror, forming a striking con- trast with the deep, dark, sombre forest of pines which here and there had been left untouched to the wnter'» edge. The whole tract of land, on both sides of the river, six miles deep, belonged to the Indians, but owing to the indefatigable exertions of Sir John Colborne he induced them to make a surrender of an extensive and fertile por- tion now called the townships of Cayuga and Dunn, 14 miles in length from the mouth of the river. The hank» of this river form the Reserve of tie Six Nations, extend- ing fifty miles from Lake Erie to Brantford ; — a portion of these lands were sold to an ancient and respectable fa- mily in the Province, named Nelles, and the settlement was called after them. The road to Cayuga passes thro^ this settlement, and satisfactorily accounts for the extent of richly cultivated country, without stumps to be seen on the banks of the river. .^ large village called York, hav- ing the advantage of a post-office , has been formed, with- in these three years, and is augmenting rapidly; —it has mills, several large stores, taverns, a school, and carries on already a considerable trade. Between it and the vil- lage of Cayuga, is another village called Indiana, still the residence of many Indians, but having some large houses and stores in it belonging to Europeans. Several neat residences have been erected in favorable positions on the banks of this lovely river, particularly one, belonging to^ Mr. Martin ofGalway, son of the amiable, but eccentric philanthiopist, of that name. UPPER CANADA. Jit In every instance when these line lands have been brought into market, it has been followed by the clearing and culture of the soil, by the conversion of cabins into cottages, of hamlets into villages, of villages into towns, and of towns intd cities : by the encouragement of indus- try and trade ; by public order and social strength.— Since that time I have been many times to Cayuga, and have been highly gratified at the rapidity of its settlement* The crops last year, as well as the present, were particu- larly luxuriant along the whole route of the river. Great quantities of wild fruit grow along the banks of this inter- esting river, particularly the grape, whose noble vines, were almost borne down by the weight of the immense clusters of fruit hanging pendent from them. Several species of thorn, and prickly ash, adorn the banks, and the finest varieties of wild honey -suckle I ever beheld; there are also abundance of that beautiful parastical plant entwining round the trees, elegantly decorated with or- ange coloured berries, termed the celestina scandens. — This country must be well adapted for frjuit ; there is ac- tually a ^superabundance of raspberries, strawberries, plums, and apples growing in the wild state. Along the flats of the Grand River, very heavy crops of Indian corn and barley are raised, and I saw several large fie\d$ of wheat of the most promising aspect. The quarries of gypsum or plaister of Paris seem inexhaustible and sever- al mills for grinding it, are in active operation along its course. The Niagara District returns six Members to the House of Assembly. 1\ i Q12 * UPPER CAXADA. THE GORE DISTRICT, Is divided into the two Counties of Halion and VVentworth, COUNiy OF VA^iTON. Township*. Cult ivalerl acres. ynculiiviite! 1S34, in September, was 2101 ; and when taken in the year '■•f 214 UPPER OANADA. following, in May, 1835, it was 2600, showing an increase of 500 in seven months — the population is now probably about 3,000. The cen- sus in 1833, as taken by the township assessor, was about 1,400. The amount of the townievenue in 1834 was, including Police taxes i^270, pnd the expenditure nearly the same. ' The amount of the town revenue in 1835, is, including the Police taxes, j£430 or thereabouts, showing a very great increase in the wealth and prosperity of this town. It is probable more buildings will be put np in the ensuing summer than has ever before been put up in the town. Several of our most opulent merchants are making preparations to erect large brick build- ings in King-street. The contractors are taking advantage of the sleighing, by removing the old frames of houses to clear the lots for more permanent buildings. . ! The town of Hamilton is the District town, at which the Assizes and Quarter Sessions are held : it returns a member to Parliament. Hamihon has a literary society, at which scientific, philosophical, and political questions are discussed ; the debates a^e well sustained, and it will doubtless prove an excei'ent school for training young barristers in the habit of extemporaneous speaking. Mr. Cattermole, th« author of a work on emigration, lives in this town. I have ever been accustomed to speak of both men and things, as I feci, and being fully persuaded that Mr. Cattermole was a faithful friend to this Province, in his efforts to further emigration, 1 regret and am surprised that his claims to its consideration have been altogether end most unaccountably overlooked. A medical society has been also formed, and I trust the time is not distant when it will have a public hospital. The Gore Bank, which has been chartered, is now established at Hamilton, and must prove of great advantage in promoting its still further improvement. From time to time it has been in agitation to connect Hamilton with Lake Erie by Rail Koad, forming the nearest and quickest connecting link between the two lakes, the proposed route was to Port VfPEti CANADA. 2(6 t)o\Gt on the shores of Lake Erie, its practicability and utility may be seen by the engineer's report. But could it be possible to carry a rail road to Brantford, to conned the London and Western Districts with Lake Ontaeio, it would be the route both for goods and passengers fr^m the extensive territory of Michigan and the Western states. The excitement it has produced, and the arguments by which respective routes are sustained, will be seen by re-* i'erence to the Appendix. PRICES CURRENT IN UPFER CANADA. Hamilton, Feb. 20, 1830. $3 28 6d " > ' ^ $4 a $5 Is a Is 4d Wheal, per 60 lbs. Flour, per 100 lbs. Oats, per bushel, Beef, per cwt. Pork, per cwt. Butter, per ly. New York Currency. Wheat, per 60 lbs. Flour, superfine, per barrel Do, fine do Oats, per bushel Peas, do. Beef, per owt. Butter, per lb. Pork, fresh, per 100 lbs. Halifax Garrency Cobourg, Veb. 23, 183G. 38 9d a 4s 3d 228 6d 20s a 2l8 3d Is a Is 3d 2s 5d 22s 6d 7d a 9d 22 6da25» Wheat, per 60 lbs. Flour, Fine, per brl. Oats, per bushel Beef, per cwt. Pork, fresh, per 100 lbs. Butter, per lb. Kingston, Feb. 23, 1836. 4s 3d a 4a 6d 25s a 27b 6d Is3dal86d 17s 6d a 208 25s a 27s 6d 7da8d rt Halifax Currency. As a great proof of the great trade which Hamihon carries on, through the Burlington Bay canal, in one week during the month of July, in the present year, and from one of the four wharves at Hamilton, was shipped 17,000 bushels of wheat, per bushel at this time $1. „»■:■■ ■fi^ t , li 216 Ul*PER CANADA. Besides the District School, Hamiltuii lias sfcveral prh vate Seminaries most respectably concliicteti. There ard three newspapers published in Hamiltoi): .atid it is scarce- ly too much to predicate that it will become one of the most flourishing, as it is already^ one of the most beauti- ful towns in Canada. In February 1836 there were ra- ces on the Lake three days consecutively : and on April 8th two steamboats arrived at Burlington Canal with pas- sengers from Toronto, who were conveyed to Hamilton^ in stages, ovei* the ice, a distance of seven miles. The Gore Bank is established in this town, and from its respectability and liberality is likely to prove highly advantageous to this very flourishing District« STONEY CREEK Is six miles from Hamilton oii the Niagara Road^ in the township of Saltfleet : it is a considerable village con- taining several stores and taverns, and surrounded by large farms, with excellent houses. From the summit of the mountain overhanging this village is a splendid and most extensive prospect, perhaps as beautiful as can be met with in Canada. The country both above and be- low the mountain extensively cultivated. A few miles from Stoney Creek, on the mountain, towards Ancaster, is the country known by the name of the Albion Mills, in the township of Barton. These Mills are turned by a powerful creek which passes through a most romantic ravine in its course to Burlington Bay There is a burn- ing spring in the beautiful woods extending down into the valley. The farms round here are large, well cleared, in high cultivation, with good houses, orchards, barns,and stock. It is the nearest route from the Western District to Lundy's Lane, by Smithville on the Twenty Mile Creek ; — when the new bridge is completed over the Grand River at Cayuga, the route from the west to Nia- UPPISH CANADA. feif ^Mii^ will be i^^ndered still much bettei^And shortei'i Perliaps iii Upper Canada ther6 is not to be met with >so beaiUiAii and highly cultivated a dtstri(^t as that lying immediately between Burlington Bay and the Dutidasi Street at Nelson. The fields are large and level, divested of stumps ; the soil very SUperibl*, bearing the lilOst lux- uriant crops of grass, clover, and corn ; the fafm-houses Hte good, substantial brick buildings, with dairies drid cellars attached ; and the orchards ai'e stocked with the choicest fruit trees. The ride from McNab's mahsioii dit Burlington Heights to Nelsdn, by this route, would well repay arty lovCr of agricultural beauty and fine sCenery for their trouble. Two new villages have beeti laid otit ion the lake road to Toronto, beyond Wellington Square, between it and Oakville, — the one by Mr. Kerr's, called iPort Nelson, yet In Its infailcy, but a few houses having been erected, and a small clearing in the vvoods made : — the other at the mouth of the Twelve Mile Creek, very {N'ettily situated, containing many houses, a tavern, ma- hy more in Course of erection, and surrounded by largd and well cleared fai'mSt W^LLiNGTON SCJUArM ts built at the extremity of the beach stretching betw^eil Burlington Bay and the Lake : there is deep water td the shore ; the Burlington Bay Canal passes through this beach, Connecting Ontario with Hamilton and the West. There are several large stores and houses, and an excel- lent tavern in this village : a very neat Episcopal church has been erected, surmounted by a lofty white spire, seen at a Considerable distance, and imparting that charming character to a village scene, so pleasing to the lovers of* rural beauty. The road to Toronto passes through thii village, Port Nelson, and by the Twelve Mile Creek- i^ 38 U\i^ VrPCR CANADA. , . . i OAKVILLE, which owes its prosperity, nay its existence to the patri- otic and indefatigable exertion of Colonel Chisholm, one of the present members of the House of Assembly, for ilic county ol Haiton. It is very pleasantly situated on a beautiful level, about thirty feet above the Lake, which it fronts, — it is directly at the mouth of the Sixteen Mile Creek,which forms a safe and commodious harbour,where several schooners and steamboats have been built. The village has increased so rapidly, that it now extends across the Creek, — it was formerly on the left bank, — a good draw-bridge is erected over it. The following account of this flourishing village was made in February last. The past eix months has witnessed the erection ofa very handsome Methodist Church, to which the addition ofa spire not only adds to tliO elegance of the building but makes it an ornament to the town. In- fleed we have frequently anticipated the pleasure of viewing from the deck of the Oakviile on her way to Toronto the vast improvement to the interesting appearance of the town which the church and its spire must create. Building has not however been confined to the church. We have noticed the erection of several new houses and ad' ditions made to the others. Among the latter we caunot but particu' larly remark the additions to appearance and comfort of the Oakviile House. Of this house His Excellency our new Governor, we under- stand, was pleased during his short stay in town, to observe that it was the best tavern he had been in since he left albany. The establishment of a post-office has conferred upon the town, a means of holding communication with the world without which na place can prosper. Two considerable stores have been opened and report bids us look forward to the opening of others during the current year. The Weighing Machine, erected in Mary street, although not a conspicuous object, has nevertheless been a great convenience to the town, and advantageous to the neighbourhood. The note of preparation for building during the coming spring, we ar^.happy to say is sounding. Messrs. Watson and Hopkirk have b^tnthecellari^for their intended brewery, and the Rev. Joseph Mm Cl^PBR eANAi>A. did 10 preparing for the erection orhis dwelling. TheM works arftupoik tiie west side uf the Creek, and will doubtless prove the commence- meiitofa rapid extension of our town in that quarter. Thti Government Steam Dredging Machine was built in our ship- yard, under the cotitract of D. 8. Howard Esq., from the States. — This employed many hands during the winter, and by the prompt weekly payment of the men, made no slifhi addition to the circulating medium. ..^ .:,»■• Although the intended dam across the creek is not yet in progreBi» creditable report induces us to believe, that ere long we shall have the satisfaction of announcing that, this vast improvement to our town is in progress. When this undertaking with the mills to be erected up- on [if are completed, it will impart a fresh impulse to our advancement and of which tlie intended improvements of our excellent harbour will enable the town to reap the full benefits. During the progress of these outward signs of advancement, we iiave observed that other and less conspicuous concerns have receiv- ed the attention of our fellow townsmen. A very considerable sub- scription has been entered into towards the salury of n presbyteriao clergyman to officiate in this town and neighbourhood, — not on- ly will this be a spiritual benefit to the community, but occasion the e- rection of a presbyterian church, to add to the number of our public buildings. The population of Oakville is upwards of 30O. DUN DAS. ' ' The village of Dundas, now about to be iucorporated,, is situated in a most picturesque ravine, between the op- posing mountains of Ancaster and West Flamboro', front- ing a luxuriant valley, through which the Desjardins canal passes, connecting it with the waters of Burlington lake. This village, though situated more advantageously, both for external commerce and internal communication, than any other place at the head of lake Ontario, has not ad- vanced with nearly the same rapidity, with other places^ possessing not a tithe of the same natural advantage^ which appertain to Dundas. Now, however, that the completion of the Canal is determined upon, the money obtained, and the expenditure confided to active individ^ i^- lifl 920 VPFER CANADA. uals residing In the village, and interested in its weffiire» it is to be hoped that its commercial enterprise will meet with no Airther impediment. A detightfui stream of wa-^ ter, running from the Flanilnoro' mo-uitain, and supplying the very extensive works of the Hon. Jns. CF(M>ks, called the Darnley Mills» coasisiing of grist-mills, paper mlHs^ distillery, &c, and other mills on its route, passing through the beautiful grounds of Dr. Hamilton, where it rushesi over a bo|d, rocky precipice nearly 100 feet in depths into 1^ rich woodlaqd glen, then supplying more mills, anci continuing its course through Dundas, where it uhimately empties itself into the basin at the head of the caiiaK The streams fron^ the Ancaster mountain are also received intot the same canal, after pursuing their tortuous windings; through some exquisite meadows belonging to Binckley, (^ tanner. Dundas itself has surprisingly improved during these last three years— «many large s.tone and brick buildn ings having been erected witnin that period. The Ca-. tholic Church with its white spire, surmounted by the holy symbol of the Christian, faith, forms an interesting object, seen as it is from all the high grounds around the village. The Presbyterian, Episcopal^ and, Baptist con-, gregations make use, alternately, \,^f a small free Church, in the village, but this scandalous osiprobium is likely sooii to ceascji as the members of the Scotch and GnglisU churches are about erecting separate places of worship ftn* themselves. The grounds of George Rolph, Esq. in the very centre of Dtmdas, are extremely beautiful, finely timbered, presenting the appearance of a, noble park : a handsome terrace of the richest verdure extends across them, overlooking the whole village, at the back of whicU {It a little distance is a bold range of rnountains, almost perpendicular, beautifully wooded, occasionally intersect- «(ji jby ^uUies^ and forming a noble rampart and screet^ UPPER Ci^NADA. 321 IVom the north. The entrance to his demesne is particu< lariy striking, from the lofty iron gates, handsomely fin- ished, enclosed and surrounded by walls of fine free stone resembling, and quite worthy the entrance to a noble-* nian's mansion. Indeed there is nothing I have seen or heard of, like it in America-^ but oh ! what a disappointo ment, — splendid as is the entrance, it is like that men*' (ioned in Goldsmith's Citizen of the World, **a splendid entrance into nothing." 1 believe, however, that it is Mr. Rolph's intention to build a stone bridge, and ultim^ ately a stone mansion in a corresptmding style of magnfi^ cence — if so, it will be an honour and an ornament to the country. In the grounds of this gentleman is a saline spring, just in rear of his oDice, near the brow of the niountain, I am satisfied from its strength, that any quan> tity of salt could be manufactured on the flats below, by golar evaporation. The water is quite as powerful as any of the waters at the various suit works to be met with ia the State of Now York- There are abundance of stores^ several taverns in this town, and much business is trans- acted. Indeed during tho winter season whilst the sleigh- ing lasts, it is a curious and gratifying scene, to witness the trains of sleighs conveying produce to this market, from the flourishing and fertile township of Waterloo* Dundas is in the extensive County of Halton. The roa*K called the Governor's lload, fron Toronto to the London^ and Western District, passes through Dundas; the descent from the mountain at East Flaraboro' to Dundas is gradu^ al, and through a richly cultivated and picturesque coun- try ; the road then continues between the Ancaster and Flamboro' mountains to Paris, a village on the Grand river, over which a bridge has been erected, and from thence to London. The country on the Dundas Street,, b^tw^en the village and Toronto, is generally well settled^ li ill } r- i 4 222 - U*»1'ER CAMAOA. At East Flamboro* there is a small settlement called VVpi- terdown — some mills, houses, and taverns. A. Fergusson Esq. of VVoodhill, hvs a large farm near it, beautifully situated, commanding some most extensive views, richly varied with wood, watei, hill, and valley. Indeed it h difficult to do justice to the beautiful country seen from his residence, extending towards Niagara, and embracing a view of the lakes, and Ancaster mountain ; its waters, woods, verdrnt hills, the numerous and most beautiful orchards of apples, pears, plums, and peaches — and of the glens which lead from the hills down to the creeks^ ren- dering it the very perfection of rural scenery. At Nelson there is a village, and houses and taverns along the road. At Trafalgar another, and the streams passing through these townships, in their course to the lake, turn a great deal of machinery. i- • ' ^^^ - WEST FLAMBOROUGH The West Flamborough Mountain, a little more than a mile from Dunrias, has so many buildings now erected on it, commencing from the tavern at one end, near Dun- das, and extending to the other extremity, where the roads diverge, branching oflf to Guelph, and Beverly, as to give it Jhe character of a long straggling village. The situa- tion is very prominent and comiuanding, overhanging a vast extent of country. The rich, smiling face of the val- ley lying between it and Ancaster Mountain, and stretch- ing towards the Grand River, is beautifully intersected with farm-houses and '"cultivated fields, in the midst of woods. Towards the east, a long vista of woods is seen, bounded by the mountain, extending towards Niagara:— elso the flourishing towns of Dundas and Hamilton in the vale, with the glittering cupola of the court-house of the latter, and the small lake, with the beach dividing it from the large expanse of waters of Lake Ontario, The white L'fPlift CANADA. 223 mists in the extreme distance, arising from the Falls of Niagara, rolling and curling in the most fantastic forms, are frequently seen. The prospect this mountain com- mands, is most comprehc^nsive, embracing a circuitous sweep of very great extf^ut. The farms on it arc large, and well cultivated, with good orchards. The Hon. Jas. Crooks has a number of mil!s and manufactories here:— grist-mill, paper-ujill, oil-mill, saw-mills, distillery, and a general store. The paper of ihis book was made in the Hon. Mr. Crook's mills, called the Darnley Mills, and being printed in this Province, the book is altogether Canadian. His house is a large building, surrouuded by a fine shrubbery, and excellent garden. Several gen- tlemen have purchased farms around Flamborough during the last two years, and erected good substantial houses on them. Many village lots have been disposed of in front of the road, on which houses ha"e been and are in pro- gress of erection. There are also several taverns, as it is the main road to Dundas, from Waterloo, Dumfries, Nichol, and Guelph. At the corner of the road leading to the mountain, and nearly at its summit. Dr. Hamilton has erected a large stone house, in a most lovely situa- tion, delightfully embosomed in trees,, and enclosed by an excc!!ent park fence. It is within a hundred yards of a majestic waterfall, rushing down a huge precipice into a glen of exquisite beauty, and commands a noble view of the lakes, and the extensive valley between it. The hydraulic power on this mountain stream is great, and turns numerous mills. On or near the town Vive be- tween West Flamborough and Beverly, an Indian grave ground has been discovered, and quantities of trinkets of various sorts have been dug out, together with sculls, bpneSf apjLes, tomahawks, &c. A curious tablet has also been found amongst the other curiosities^ .^ ■n 11 ' V > i i I' ' h -. --i- ^ • ' ^^v ANCASTER ' ' >-'' ^ '^ Standi on an elevated position, overlooiiing the lake, 1 miles distant from Hamilton, 3 from Dundas, and 18 from Brantford, the road from the former places^ to the latter^ running through it. The country for miles round it, isi beautifully cleared, it having been settled for a length of* time. When Governor Simcoe, in February 1793, took a tour from Niagara, then the seat of Government, to Detroit, he returned by Ancaster, not at that time so calU ed, but to Wilson's Mills, the same now in possession of Job Lodor Esq. : — ^the log house still remains standing, where he stopped on that occasion, clearly demonstrating that at that period, some improvements had commenced, and that a portion of the land in the vicinity was nndef *niltivation. The township was surveyed 41 years since, the original inhabitants were chiefly Lower Canadians, end there is in my garden a large poplar tree, that must be of nearly 50 years growth, planted by uie first setthrs. Until within these two years, it had rather retrogaded than advanced, but the extensive property surrounding the village, having been brought into the market^ iiumer-< uus lots have been sold, and it is onCe again flourishing and active. It is finely watered by small, but never ceas- ing springs, of the purest water, and is deservedly cele- brated for its great salubrity. There are large flour mills, a saw mill, a distillery, and a tannery in the village, which * is situated in the 2d concession of the township o{ Ancas- ter. There are two churches, Episcopal and Presbyterian, several neat houses, and many fine, large, well cultivated farms, In the immediate vicinity. A brick school-house and library, is in progress of erection. A number of re- spectable families from Great Britain have settled in thi» vicinity during these last three years, forming an excel- l«nt society. There is also a foundry, where ploughs, UPPER CANADA. 22d thrashing machines, &c., are made. The roads ahout it| are very guud, and iVom (he duration of sleighing last winter, between 13 and 14,000 saw-logs were drawn in- to the various savv-niills, situated in this township. Be- ing on the route froui Niagara and Toronto, to the West* erii District, stages pass through it daily ,* and during the season, the steamers are running on the Lake^ extr^ stages are established from Uamiiton to Brantford, afford- ing every facility in travelling. Families arriving from Circat Britain, to whom immediate settlement is not of* such consequence, as one selected, would find it to their advantage to take a cottage in this village for a twelve month, at a moderate rent, and survey the country leis- urely and minutely, previously to determining on a fariri or habitation^ as they would greatly prefer the quiet and jsalubrity ofa pretty village, to remaining in a crowded town. Ancaster from its situation, its churches, its orch- ards, millsj large farms, and comfortable farm-houses ^ re- sembles an English village more than most places in thel Province ; but here, as throughout the country, there is a want of iinish, the palings and fences are imperfect, thef gardens not well enclosed, rtor the rustic character cdm- l lete. It is however daily improving. The general character of the land throughout the town- ship is good, and except immediately adjacent to the vill- age, the farms are not very dear. GUELPH. T he village of Guelph stands in a ver) prominent sit- uation, buAit on five hills, beautifully watered by the rivei* Sneedj a branch of the Grand Eiver, on an elevation of 800 feet above Lake Ontario, extremely healthy, possess- ing saw-mills, grist-mills, tanneries, distilleries, and Oth^i' manufactories ; a targe and increasing population ; neW and superior houses in progress of erection ; an ext'ellfitl 39 i 226 WPPER CANADA. rnarket house ; three well conducted taverns ; three large and handsome churches ; and a school. However it may suit the purpose of grovelling malcontent i, and brawling grievance mongers to abuse, vilify, and misrepresent the labours and exertions of the Canada Company, it was mainly owing to their zeal, enterprise, and assiduity that the Province became so much settled ; they were the means of diffusing a more accurate account of Canada a- mougst the liritis'^ people, and giving a tone to emigra- tion, of which it for -y stood so much in need. This vicinity is gre^.-y celebrated for the quantity and quality of Barley grown, — and sleighs well laden with it, are brought during the winter months to the respective breweries for sale. The road between here and Gait seems particularly a" dapted for barley, — the clover crops looked very luxuri- ant, — it is beautifully watered with never failing streams. ' Some person inimical to Guelphhad described it as a failure : how far it is to be considered so, let the follow- ing statement, from a resident, decide : — **Irf the first place the «migrant is told that *' Guelph is a failure." How far this is consistent with truth will be seen by the improvements now making both ip the town and neighbourhood. During the past year no less than 16 frame and 2 brick houses made their appearance iu our streets, and there are at present two large taverns in progress, a chapel, and 7 or 8 fratne houses building or contracted fur in the town, and building of all sorts and descriptions daily risin,; out of the wood, if I may use the expression, in the country. Almost the whole of the land that is at all available is disposed of, and is under cultivation and settled on, with the exception I believe of from 2 to 3,000 acres out of 48,000 ! which compose the township, with a large and daily encreasing proportion ofTown Lots, also disposed of and built upon. We have breweries and distilleries who give us the highest market price for our grain in cash. Stores, 7 or8 in number, hotels, taverns, watchmaker, culler, chairmaker, and mecbanica of evelry description : so much for **6 erally allowed to be productive, and easy of tillage, certainly two very great accommodations. The roads are good, and as your wants [if not too extravagant] can be all supplied at the village, so also can yon dis- pose of your produce. Your access to «iarket then is easy. You will find that this portion of th« country, is superior to others, inasmuch as i: 232 UPPER CANADA. I you are enabled to locate on cleared land, with a sm&ll capital. lis sitiJi ation being high it is superior for its salubrity. It is superior in thd growth of wheat and clover, and is not inferior in locality. •■ . . July 2d, 1836, I rode to, and from, Guelph, by the short road from Dundas, and was absolutely amazed at the improvement which had taken place in eighteen months . the extent of clearing, the number of ticw and comfora- ble log houses erected on the route, particularly through the township of Puslinch, and the general improvement in the country. There is an excellent inn kept by Mr* Black, which I can recommend with great confidence and satisfaction, for the attention paid to travellers, the excel- lence of its accommodation and the moderation of its charges. He has named it New Berwick. BRANTFORD Is a large and and very flourishing village, situated on a fine plain, high and dry, and overlooking the Grand Ri' ver, over which a bridge has been erected. It takes its name from the celebrated Indian Chief, of the Mohawk tribe, John Brant, Esq. Since the surrender of the landsi surrounding this village, and those forming the townships of Cayugaa and Dunn, by the Indians, and the naviga- tion of :".:e Grand River been completed, Brantford has most rapidly increased, and now contains several church- es, schools, manufactories, stores, mills, and many excel- lent private dwelling houses. *'We have been favored with the census of our town, now amounting to 1100 inhabitants, and which shows an increase in three years, of more than triple the amount, and in the last year of 225, the number being in 1833,347—1835, 875—1836, llOO. The great satifactiod ivhich this aflfords must be participated in by all interested in the neigh- bourhood. In a country like this, population is wealth, and if we pro- ceed for the next three years, and it is to be hoped we shall, with the ftame rapidity as for the last, we shall bid fair to stand forth as one of tbt finest cities of the Province. Our position for health and fertility is UPP£K CANADA. 23^ ftotto be surpfisSed, and our opening navigation will aflford such facili- ties as well fur the export of our produce as for the importation from bther countries, that the agrrculturui^t and the merchant may look for- ward to a prudperity that cannot fdil to be attendant on industry and energy." r ■ .» '«<.|;t,, A great influx of British settlers have purchased the lands on both sides of the river, extending to Paris, and preparing to erect their houses on the most favored and picturesque sites. In connection with my account of this village, I intended to give the particulars of two visits I made during the winter to the Indian villages of theMo- havvk and Tuscarora tribes, in company with two Scotch gentlenien, possessing considerable property near An- castcr. From its length I have transferred it to the Appendix, under the head of Indians. The sleighing was s6 excellent, that we performed the journey, eigh- teen miles, in two hours. The country along the Mo- hawk road has improved very greatly during these lasi three years : it runs through a pine swamp for many miles, the labour bf clearing which must have been ex- tcessive, as the profusion of shitiips demonstrate. The road in summer is frequently in a wretched state, but Some spirited individuals have manifested a disposition to improve it, and it is likely to become a good turnpike road Being the main wesfirn road, and the immediate route to the most fertile district in the Province, from the head of Lake Ontario, nothing can retard its prosperity and improvement, but apathy, or prevent its becoming one of the most interesting and important portions of the country. The land on both sides of the road, after pass- ing through the ridges of piiie, not very deep, is of the most excellent quality, and some of the native farmers raise prodigious crops of wheat, oats, buckwheat, and In»- diaii corn. There are large, beautilul, and extensive^ meadows in the route, with fine stireams of living water> SO f It 1284 UPPER CANADA. running through them, to their debouchure in the Grand River. The greater portion of the road passess through the township of Ancaster. About six miles from the vilU age orAncastcr, and midway between Hnnuhon and Brantford, and Dundas and Brantford, is one of the best taverns on the route, kept by Mr. Henry Odell, who is also a very extensive farmer. Excellent accommodation, great attention, and moderate charges are sufficient re- commendations; they are all to be met with at this inn. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETIES. There are many of these societies now established in the Province ; besides the one for the General Home District, there is also one for Oro, Orilla, Simcoe, and Thorah, — one in the London District, — one also in the Gore District, first proposed by Frederick Suter, Esq., of Oakwood, at the annual dinner of the sons of St. An- drew, since matured and carried into operation, having the Hon. James Crooks of West Flamborough, President, and Dr. William Craigie of Ancaster, Secretary. It has had shows for cattle, at flamilton. Nelson, Brantford, and Guelph. It has many hundred subscribers, honorably emulating and vieing with each other in the attainment of agricultural perfection, and meeting and mingling to- gether as old and new settlers, and cherishing feelings of individual and mutual regard. Mr. Fergusson is deserv- ing of great credit for the attention he has bestowed and the pains he has taken in the introduction of better breeds of cattle : the cows on his farm are the finest I have seen in the Province : a good deal of white in their colour, shorthorns, straitback, just like those in the Holderness Country of Yorkshire. The cows, generally roaming a- bout the country as free commoners, are swag-backed, their tails thick and rough, pin-haunched, their heads •coarse, their faces broad, ribs flat, and horns thick and UPPER CANAUA. 235 long. His Durham ox h a picture, a model of these beautiful cattle : sliort hums, strait back, a taper neck, ve- ry small in proportion where it Joins on the small and handsome head, dee]) dewlap, small boned in the legs, hoop ribbed, square hipped, and tail slender. I believe Mr. Ferguson uses turnips as a winter food, Frederick Suter, lOsq., whose farm is worthy the inspection of any lov^r of agriculture, and should have been seen, by al^ means, by Mr. Illinois Sheriff of Mango's Park, has c'll- tivated the turnip most successfully. On his farm, he has large and beautiful fields of turnips of both kinds^ sowed in rows with intercultivation, and certainly pre- senting as luxuriant a growth as could be seen. He has also raised large quantities of barley, the grain bright and heavy. H. P. Simmons, Esq., of Xncaster brought from England last year some of the Dishley breed of sheep : — they are as beautiful as imagination could make them,— round and loaded with flesh, and will if generally en- couraged, produce quantities of fine mutton, and bales of fine wool. E^e also brought out the thin rhined Norfolk hog, the most perfect picture to be seen : they become fat on any kind of food, and without any trouble. The Gore District returns five members to the House of Assembly. THE LONDON DISTRICT, Lying to the west of the Gore District, stretches alsa north and south from the north shore of Lake Eric, ta the southern extremity of Lake Huron. Independently of its large water fronteir on the two lakes, it is intersect- ed by the rivers Thames, Ouse, Aux Sables, and Mait- land. A paper printed in London speaks thus of thiA District: — Possessing, as this District does, a vasttract of unoccupied t^rritoryi, of tranacendaut excellency of soil — enjoying a climate admirably Adap* "I m ^i: i if,- 236 UPPER CANADA. ted to aid the labour of the agriculturiat — a territory whose fice arc^ pxliiliratitig air alike forbids the approach of pestilence and famine,. it onFy wants a population proportionate to its extent of ^oH, torendeq its situation enviable beyoijd that of any people on euilh. Enjoyinij all the blessings oi the British Constitution— suliject to no gri^ivous Tythe systenj— called upon for not! \es, beyond wh'»t is barely neces- »ary for the a Iininistration of justice, lud tha praino'ion of internal in»- provent: it needs only the aid of thai powerful (ngi,.:e, the Press, to, spread throughout the world a knowledge of its siLUuUon, and invite, from every nation, the industrious and enterprising, who may from, necessity, or inclination be compelled or inclined to abandon the homes, of their fathers. Feeling this to he its situation, and anxious to' see the whole wilderness converted iiito smiling fields, and the abode oC' the wolf, and theh^unt of the savags, become the asylums of tliesoniEk and daughters of liberty and pivilizatiouj we have determinecl, by tliq. establishment of a Press in London, to contribute cur mite toward the. attainment of those ends. We are by birth, byeducotmn, from reason, and from reflection, attached firmly and unalterably to the Briti>hco»<- Btitution, and enjoying it as we do 'ere, stripped of its most objectioti-. able branches, determined ever to support it — ever to live under it—, and if it fall — which Heayen forbid — to fall manfully, fighting in il% ^ofencp. COUNTY OP MIDDLESEX. Townshipi. Culuvated amea. Ui Aid borough, 3,098 Ekfrid, 1,205 Mai abide, / 8,071 Delaware, ^ 670 Dorchester, C85 Lobo, 2,221 Bayham, 5,490 Adelaide, 1,038 Caradoc, 2,944 South wold, 11.208 London, 11,866 Town of Londop, '63 Ya/i^iouth, 10,825 Dunwich, 2,864 Westminsteiv 6,777 Mosa, 1,408 COUNTY Pereham, 1,179 Oakland^ 2,781 NisBouri, 2,626 {»^9rwich, 7,200 tivatcd acrod. AsseiBDOfnl, Population. 9.025 £6,282 592 13,165 5,303 481 34,275 27,120 ^,150, 5,186 4,646 279 8,410 4,500 448 17,160 8,651 675 3i,u67 26,32^ 2,131 39.454 12,120 935. 13,394 8,092' 5Ga 38,288 32.462 1*631 64,138 39,209 3,533 IG 8,599 l,03r 37,960 38,296 3,468 24,869 13,163 616 32,180 2;?,229 1.877 15,770 7,357 737 F OXFORD. 9,526 4,903 461 5,914 7,875 537 19,342 9,659 841 32,600 26,448 2|^22l • l^ «■■ UPPER CANADA. 231 ^orra. 4,272 36,200 18,695 2,018 J[{|nnclf(»rd, . A 301 4,267 , 3,400 381 !|3lo[iheiMi. 3,890 13.551 ^^.13.397 l,Olg lOastOxfiJid, 5>,093 9,222 ^ 7,819 739 West Oxford, 4,727 18,473 19,473 1,351 Burlord, 7,180 CQUNTY 21,452 OP NORFOt^K. 20,640 1,413 Cliarlatfeville, 8,470 20,860 26,700 1,664 Wiiidliam, 5,556 12,654 ' 14,138 951 Middleton, 1,185 9,925 5,847 406 MoughtOQ, 514 3.355 1,795 19a Wulsingham, 3.095 8,698 12,000 886 '4'owii8end, 10465 26,617 30,310 1,919 Wood house. 7,194 15,137 23,752 1,414 Horses, 4,963 — Oxen of ftur year old and upwards, 7,272 — Milch Cows, 13,720— Horned Caltle, from 2 to 4 years old, 6,410. '■ - LONDON, This town is beauiifully situated on the north bank of (he Thames, and is the capita) of the District. Governor Siincoe predicted as far back as 1793, that it would be- coaic, sonic day, a place ofgreat magnitude and import^ puce; the north and west branches of the Thames unita here ; it stands on an elevated and commanding situa- tion and has roads to Goderich — to St. Thomas, and ta Sandwich. The Ibllowing account is from the Frceman'a Journal : — The Township of London was settled in the year 1818, and as itt first settlers were persons for whom the Editor's Father obtained froiti the Briiish Government free giants of land, and a free passage to IVlon- treal, we have liada.nore than ordinary onportimity offormingan ac-- , curate judgment of the propriety of the plan which we recommend — i scarcely an individual who accompanied Mr. Talbot to this country- was possessed of more than £100, and many on their arrival in this- township had not more than <£50 ; yet of all uiose persons there is sesrcely one that is not now wholly independent — in t)ic possession of' fine farms, of anabunda!;.;e of stock, and in the enjoyment of all the comforts and many of the luxmies oflife. The Township of London in* 1829, 7 years after its settlement, contained a population of 2^115 souls. It contained at that time 5941 acres of cleared land, 135 horses, 652- Qxen, 965 cows, 2 merchants shops, 3 8aw*nnills, 2 grist-mills, 12fran[ie4 j^QUS^s under two stories, and 3 two Htory bouses. I \ 238 UPPER CANAt>,4. The population is n.^w 5.051, includitig the Town— tbc number of acre* of cultivated land 12S11 — the number of horses 514^ oxen 726, cow* 1531« young horned cattle 565, mecb&nics shops 8,, saw-mUls6, grisU mills 5, frame houses under two stories 146, two stories high 43. The first house was built in the Town of London in tbe fall of 1827>> It now contains a papulation ot 1246 souls, about 200 dwelling houses* ^nished and inhabited, and nearly lOQ frames no* yetenclobed, »ome of which Iiave been put up this spring. The court-house which is lOQ feet long, 50 feet wide, and 50 feet high, has the best external appear- ance of any similar building in the Province. It haa four octagon tow* ers, one at each extremity, built somewhat in the Gothic style, the principal windows are also Gothic. The court-room, for neatness and convenience, is excelled by Very few rooms appropriated ta the same purposes. There are also in the Town, 6 churches. Episcopal, Prtebylerian^ Roman Catholic, Methodist, and Baptist. The Episcopal church, if veexcepit the spire, which is disproportioned to thesi&e of the tower^ is one of the finest, and certainly one of the neate9t churches in tha Province. We have a first rate Classical and Mathematical School, conducted; by Mr. Wright, a gentleman of unimpeachable cb.aracter and high literary attainments. We have also another hoarding School for the educalionof females, conducted by Miss Proudfoot, a lady of high aci compli-shnients, and most respectable connexions. In addition to these (here are several well conducted male and female schools. The streets, which intersect at each other at right angles, have been greatly improved within a year or two, and well constructed side- walks bave been made in the principal ones, and we have reason to believe that before the elapse of tiie present summer we can fairly compete with any Town in tlie Province in respect to our roads and sideways. There are now within the limits of the Town 7 merchant's shops, 3 milliners, 6 groceries, 3 drug stores, 2 provision stores^ 7 licenced ta- verns, 2 watch-makers, 4 Hadlers, 3 blacksmith shops, one of which has 9 hands, and five fires constantly going, 1 brewery, 2 di.-tilleriee, 1 metal foundry, 1 flouring mill, 2 saw-mills, 1 tannery, 2 bakery's, 3 cabinet-makers, 16 master carpenters, 1 gun-smith, 3 master painters, 4 waggon-makers, 8 tailors, 1 tin-smith, 1 hatter, 6 shoe shops, 6 mas- ter masons and plaisterers, and a fanning-mill maker ; in addition to nil these Messrs. Strangman & Hill are now erecting, in five minutes fr^lk of the town, a griat-mill, intended fox three run of stones, a fulling ^"?';•.^ i^jr:, f:-^v*r ti*lfER CANADA. 2d^ VnatChinifr, a cartling machine, and turning lathes, which they expect to liave ir Cull operation before the elapse of three months. Taking a view of the very great improvements made in this town, *ind itb vicinity, during the short period of the settlement of the former^ we think we may safely say ^hat no town in British North America has advanced so rapidly or can boast of a greater number of respectable families. The Thames is navigable for steam boats and schooners to Chatham 15 miles from its embouchure and for small boats nearly to its source. About eight miles from this place is the Big Bear Creek which runs nearly parallel with it. The lands on its banks are of excellent quality, the timber lofty and majestic and of the most valuable kind, it has several falls in Don, Brook, and on the 4th concession of Zone, lot No. 48, there is a fine fall of 5 feet, from a lime-stone rock, the river being at least 6 rods in width. ST. THOMAS. This village has become a place of considerable import-> ance within these last two year h is delightfully situa- ted on the elevated banks of Kettto Creek, 200 feet in heighth, in the centre ofa well settled country that can vie with any portion of the Province in beauty and fer- tility. It contains many excellent houses, 12 stores, the branches of three banks, (Upper Canada, Commercial, and Farmers,) the best cabinet ware-houses in tiie Dis- trict, 3 churches, 2 mills, 2 breweries, 2 newspaper offi- ces, 3 well conducted taverns and a foundry. It i^^ ta-^ ted on the Talbot-street road, surrounded by large, well cleared and productive farms, good roads excellent orch- ards and choice lands, with a population of 600 persons. '^ORT STANLEY ts situated at the termination of Kettle Creek at its junc- tion with Lake £rie,^t is admirably selected for business and a great deal is carried on, — it has a good harbour, >Z40 UPPER CANAiJA. U'ell protected by Jarge wooden piers julfing into itiiJ Lake. From London to St. Thomas, a distancie of 1 7 kniles, and from thence to Port Talbot 10 miles farther^ the country is of the most pleasing character, line undula- tions, plantations judiciously leftj farms exlcnsi^ 3 and well cleared, and orchards of the best descriptions of fruit; Kettle Creek is a pretty stream, rendered more so from the elevation of its banks, — the water is deep but nar- row. Many persons, for the London, Western, and Hu- ron Districts, come by this route from Buffalo, the steam boats on Lake Erie, stopping at this port* Between it and St. Thomas, its waters supply several mills, manufac- tories, and other establishments, — the distance between the two places is 8 miles. At the outlet of Catfish Creekj a fine Stream, there is also an harbour^ — it is in the township of Malahide, and close to Yarmouth, two fine townships, both fronting Lake Erie, finely watered, well supplied with mills for luniberiug, afifording excellent ad- vantages for navigation, timbered with the choicest pine and oak* FORT BURVVELL Is a beautiful little village, 7 miles from Talbot Road, *milt at the outlet of Big Otter Creek, on the shore of Lake Erie. It has a fine harbour, several stores, a good tavern, many manufactories, and an elegant Episcopal Church recently built : there are large mills at Vienna, two miles above it, on the Creek, carrying on a very ex*- tensive business. It has a bye post from Bayham on Ot- ter Creek, from which it is distant about 8 miles. PORT TALBOT, Well known as the residence of Colonel Talbot, who has a house on a fine elevation of 100 feet above Lake Erie. This gentleman has taken great pains to introduce some superior fruit, and has been successful, — his orchard is ex- c. le UFP£R CANADA. 24i tensive nnd well stocked with healthy treies. His farm displays a great waifit of taste and neatness, but is exten- sively cleared, — the fences are slovenly, and the buildings! inean and discreditable. The stock on his farm is of thci best quality. The soil is loam and clay. He hds been most indefatigable in his efforts td settle this part of the tountry and has succeeded in his praiseworthy endeav- ours. Along the whole line of the shore of Lake Erie^ villages have been formed,— the lake-itself a scene of love- liness, the soil exuberantly fertile^ the streams almost numberless falling into the lakcj and the scite Usually se- lected for the formation of a village, being that where the greatest hydraulic power is to be found. The road from Port Talbot round the Lake to Amherstburg is 106 miles through Aidboro', Orford, Howard, EHuSj Romney, Mercer, Gosfield, and Colchester, well worthy of being travelled. There is art exquisite bay in the .township of Harwich, not unlike Burlington Bay, called Rondean : a Violent storm, this year, forced a passage through the land, from the deep water in the bay id the deep water in the lake. Were a canal or good road made from thence to the Howard Ridge settlement on the Talbot Road, and the outlet from the Bay to the Lake secured, it would become a place of great business and prove of incalcula- ble advantage to the settlers in this rich section of the Province. This distance is but sixteen miles, and would cause a saving of 160 to market. The Talbot-Street Road is one of the best in the Pro- vince, — the Colonel having made it a condition, with each setder on the route, that a chain in depth on each side of the road, should be completely cleared, that it mighi have the advantage of wind and sun* The road condnues through Delaware, where there is a small vill- age situated on the river Thames, over which there is rt 31 M:, m WLH t7PPER CANADA. bridge. The Thames itself is a delightful river, about forty yards wide, and like the renowned one of that name on whose majestic bosom the wealth of nations rides, it is ^'without over-flowing full." being abundantly supplied by numerous springs issuing from its banks. U is navigable thirty miles from its mouth, for schooners and steam boats, and during the season, steamers touch at Chatham. Various lurojects are in contemplation to con- nect London with Brantford, and thereby uniting the Thames and Grand River, a plan so unquestionably be- neficial, as to induce the lovers of improvement to exert themselves to carry it into effect. The alluvial flats along this river are of the richest quality, — prolific in the ex- treme ,* the soil in general is loam and clay — in some parts the choicest sandy loam. The timber is of the finest description of maple, beach and oak. The village of New Sarum, six miles eastof St. Thomas, fifteen front London, and ten from lake Erie shore, is situated in the County of Middlesex, on the Talbot load, through which daily stages pass ; the Niagara and Detroit Rivers Rail Road is expected to pass very near it, tlie neighbourhood is thickly settled with respectable inhabitants, and the land is of the best quality and well watered. A large tract has been laid out in Building Lots, with a reserve for a church,church-yard,and Market square ; and on the whole, it may be pronounced one of the most eligible, healthy and pleasant parts of Upper Canada. There are already a distillery, saw and grist-mills, a store, tavern, gun-smith, ma- chine maker, blacksmith, and wheelwright shop. There are several dwelling houses now being erected, and the place has the advantage of a lumber and brick yard. A tanner would find it worth his notice, and a pottery might be established, there being good clay for the pur- pose on the land. There is a day school established in the village. Building lots are selling at a nominal price to immediate settlers. VITTORIA Is a small, neat village in the township of Charlotteville, consisting of several stores, inns, a post-office, churches, school-house, and a population of nearly 300 persons. In .. --* ^'- •• rppER CANADA. 245 Charlottevilic alundaoce of iron ore is met with and tliere are large hm works. It fronts upon Lake Erie and lies nearly equiiistant between Long Point and Port Do- ver. A-m^r Is a pretty tMving village in Woodbouse, with some ex~ cellent taverns, stores, houses, and a post office, and ap- plication has been made to make it the District Town of^ a new District. Port Dover in the same township, i» >. likely to bec'^ne a place of some importance, especially if the proje(ttler.^- Major Barwick has a fine property, with an excellent house, three miles from this village. Between th^e villa- ges and Beechville the country is beautiful, int^-scctert by fine streams, handsomely timbered, and the tcarec^ parts well cultivated. \ ' BEECHVILLE Is a beautiful village, midway between Woodstock n\^ Inscrsoll, from which it is sixteen miles. It is on tU south side of the River Thames, intersected by streams ot beautiful limpid water, possessing a rich soil, timbered with trees of majestic growth, and settled all around it by most respectable English settlers. There is a good tavern, grist and saw mills, three stores and many me- chanics. The buildings about the vicinity are excellent, and the land of a superior character and moderate price^ It contains about one hundred inhabitants. INGERSOLL Is a neat, increasing and flourishing village, situated it^ West Oxford,.- the population about 200. It has a school liQiise, in which the service of the church of England is UPPER CANADA. 245 performed every Sunday, five merchant stores, one tavern, a grist and two saw mills, one pearl-ash ma- nufactory, one distillery, a great number of mecha- nics and tradesmen of various kinds. It has also the advantage of a post-office, as well as the register office for the county of Oxford. A church is about being erected, about a quarter of a mile from the village, belonging to the church of England. The roads are good, and the country long settled, well cleared and finely cultivated. ' EMBRO Is a village in the fine township of Zorra; its popu- lation, at present, is under 100. There is a Kirk of Scotland, one school, two taverns, four stores, many- mechanics, saw mill and grist mill, and some manu- factories. The village lots are selling from twenty to forty dollars each, the lot containing one fourth of an acre. The township is beautifully timbered with maple, beech, elm, bass, cherry, black and white ash, a few oaks and pine. Wild land is sell- ing for 15*. to 205. per acre. Partially cultivated farms from 1/. 10*. to 3/. per acre. It was first settled in 1820, the inhabitants one half Scotch, the remaining half Canadians and Americans. The population of the township in 1835 was 2018 : this year in January, 2354. — The townships of Yar- mouth, Southwold, Norwich, and Townsend have increased very considerably, in proportion, during the last year. From Delaware to Adelaide, a dis- tance of 18 miles, a post is now sent, for the accom- modation of the numerous families located in that fine township, together with those of Moore, Plymp- ton, Warwick and Sarnia. *31— 3 I • 246 UPPER CANADA. ,-!*??;. .-!■,■ t. tions of the success which has attended the industry and perseverance of its settlers. There are but few portions of the country exhibiting more marked in- dications of agricultural wealth than this. The settlement commenced about twelve years since, by the Government ; those who went on the land were poor, but industrious, frugal, honest, patient, and persevering ; many went into the neighbouring township of Waterloo to work for their bread, until they could raise a crop. They are, as a body, now not only independent, but actually rich. Their farms are large ; the soil fertile ; the land well cul- tivated ; their houses comfortable ; their barns spaci- ous and well built; and their stock good and numerous ; and they are themselves a most valuable and respectable body of settlers. We reached a. new formed village on the Canada Company's land, called Jonesborough, in compliment to Mr. Jones, T \ I 246* UPPER CANADA. H one of the Commissioners of the Company, where w6 were most cordially welcomed by the landlord of the tavern, Mr. Hudson. He quickly procured us some delicious venison steaks, which we relished very much. This place is situated on a small tribu- tary of the Grand River, called Smith's Creek, and is likely to become in time a flourishing village, sur- rounded as it is by a rich agricultural country. Mr. Hudson informed us, that, thirteen years before, he went from his present residence to Goderich, to mark out the destined road, a work of equal toil and difficulty. The night was rather frosty, and when we started off, by daylight, the next morning, we had a fall of snow for the first few miles of our journey, which continued through the township of Wilmot; notwithstanding this annoyance, we were delighted with Wilmot, its fine land, beautifully timbered with maple, beech, elm, and oak. There are many noble farms before the road branches off to Helmar's tavern, where the Huron district com- mences. The excellence of the land is at once seen by the magnitude and character of the timber. Along the whole route to Stratford-on-Avon, the country displayed proofs of its recent settlement, the original shanties had been in many instances deserted, and more comfortable houses had been erected in their stead. The bark roofs of the original dwellings, formed a singular but unfavor- able contrast with the new shingles of the present. The road to Stratford runs through the townships of North and South Easthope ; the former appa- rently the best and most thriving settlement. The road was extremely heavy, owing to the previous rains, so that we did not reach Stratford to break- UPPER CANADA. 246* fast, until nearly noon ; about two miles from Strat- ford there are three most beautiful lakes, near the road ; one. the largest and best seen, is an object of singular beauty ; it is a lovely sheet of water, sur- rounded by lofty banks that are nearly perpendi- cular, clothed to their summits with fine trees, and a variety of shrubs, so beautifully assorted in dis- tinct and separate rows, as to give the idea of hang- ing gardens. A quantity of wild fowl were on the calm surface of this lake. The village of Stratford is admirably situated, it is on the slopes of four small hills through which the Avon flows. There is a sub- stantial bridge which crosses this pleasing stream, and a fine large mill is turned by the Avon, the ad- vantages of which to the settlers may be known by the fact, that during last year 700 bushels of wheat alone were taken as toll. We learnt a gratifying fact at the pretty village of Stratford, with its river, churches, mill, &c. that since the alteration of the postage in the colonies, the correspondence of the people with their friends in the United Kingdom had increased more than fourfold. From Stratford we proceeded that night, as far as a very lovely river called the Little Thames ; the destined site for a village to be called Mitchell ; previously to reach- ing this place, we passed over a small plank road at Whirl Creek ; nothing can surpass this description of road, it is smooth, seems durable, and solid, and appears better adapted for Canada, than either a block road, or* a Macadamized one. Before reaching the Thames we passed over a very long corduroy road, constkacted through an extensive swamp. At the Thames is an excellent tavern, well conducted, kept by an Englishman from Devonshire, named I ( ^.v 1 1 i: 246* UPPER CANADA. Hicks, where we slept, and were most comfortably entertained. There are the ruins of the first tavern to be seen, forming a striking contrast with the appearance of the present. We left at daylight, and proceeded as far as Van Egmont's to breakfast, through a very pretty country; at Van Egmont's the clearing is extensive ; we were most kindly en- tertained at this house, and having dismissed our teamster, whose horses seemed very fatigued, Mr. Van Egmont took us on in his own waggon, the next stage, to a village, but recently formed, called Bridgewater, within nine miles of Goderich, where there is an excellent tavern kept by Mr. Hicks, the father of the landlord at whose house we had rested the preceding night. We dined at Hicks's, and went on leisurely to Goderich, through a pretty country, well settled, arriving there in the evening of October 31st, and taking up our quarters at Mr. Morton's comfortable hotel, on the margin of the majestic Lake Huron. The day had been exceed- ingly bright, warm, and beautiful, and along the whole route we had met with Irishmen and Scotch- men who were assembling tcgether to keep up the old custom of celebrating Halloween. The town of Goderich is beautifully situated ; it has a command- ing position on the margin of one of the largest and noblest lakes in America, at its confluence with the river Maitland, whose banks are high, romantic, and beautifully wooded. It is well laid out, its streets are wide, its soil is dry, the atmosphere transparent, the climate remarkably healthy, the houses substantial, the inhabitants particularly vi- gorous, and there appears every indication of con- tinued, increasing, and enduring prosperity. A UPPER CANADA. 246* great impediment formerly existed to the formation of a good harbour at Goderich, by the sand bar crossing the river Maitland at its mouth, and having but four feet of water running over it. By the con- struction of a long, solid, and handsome pier, this obstacle is now overcome, and the water has now been deepened, at the entrance to the harbour, to eight feet, enabling vessels to come in with great facility. The river, which is broad, forms, at its junction with the lake, a spacious and noble basin, and having several islands just above its entrance, they increase the protection of the harbour, and add considerably to its beauty. Nothing could surpass the fineness of the weather whilst we were at Gode- rich, and we took advantage of it, by visiting every part of the immediate neighbourhood. The Canada Company have a fine house there, in which one of the commissioners resides. The produce of the gardei is extraordinary, its position singularly well chosen, extending to the precipitous banks of the Maitland, which forms its boundary. There are three churches, a large and excellent brewery, a school-house, several handsome houses, a new jail and court-house, and a spacious lumber yard be- longing to the company. We were gre; Uy pleased in seeing a number of persons who had made a bee, for the purpose of carrying a large quantity of fire wood, which they had felled, and cut up, as a pre- sent to a widow. These acts of kindness are not uncommon. It was also a source of great gratifica- tion to find how well the schools were patronized at Goderich, forming a very creditable contrast to the great neglect of them in many other parts. The river Maitland divides the township of Goderich [■' n •.v M- 246* UPPER CANADA. I I ; fl I 1 from that of Colborne. Immediately opposite the town of Goderich, in the township of Colborne, is the delightful residence of the Baron de Tuyll, sur- rounded by woods, judiciously thinned, and which give a very pleasing character to the property. Ad- joining his estate, is the richly cultivated and exten- sive farm of Dr. Dunlop, so long and well known in the literary world, the author of The Backwoodsman, and other productions of great merit. His farm ex- tending along the table land on the summit of the banks of the Maitland, presents the appearance of a richly cultivated terrace^ as it is seen from the town of Goderich. The river is crossed by a large, and not inelegant, bridge, immediately below his estate, which bridge forms the connecting link between Goderich and the townships of Colborne and the township of Ashfield on the north. Goderich has the further advantage of being in the neighbourhood of the Saugeen Islands, where there are inexhaust- ible fisheries, at present but little used, although by the indefatigable exertions, almost unaided, of one gentleman, Dr. Hamilton, many hundreds of barrels of excellent fish were taken and cured last year. The sunset over lake Huron, on the 2nd of Novem- ber, was the most gorgeous and brilliant scene that could be imagined. No combination of colour, either in grandeur or variety could equal that which was exhibited for half a hour after the sun had sunk below the horizon ; the lake was as beautiful, with the glowing and varied tints, as the sky. We left Goderich on the 3rd at three o'clock in the afternoon of a most delightful day, having engaged a carriage with four horses to take us to London, changing three times on the road, for sixteen dollars the route, UPPER CANADA. ♦246 equal to SI. 4s. sterling. We reached Hicks's tavern at Bridgewater in the evening; we remained there during the night, taking care to make a good break- fast in the morning, and providing ourselves with food for the remainder of the day, the taverns on the route to London being very indifferent. The country throughout the whole distance to London is fine, the timber good, the farms large, and the openings ex- tensive. The character of the stock seemed supe- rior, as horses, oxen, cows, sheep, pigs, &c. ; all appeared in excellent condition. The day was bright and warm, and throughout the route, oats were being carried in excellent condition and of first rate quality, and ploughing was very general. We passed through a settlement of Englishmen, prin- cipally from Devonshire, in the townships of Us- borne and Stephen ; they had good farms and habi- tations, and had given very satisfactory proof of their full competence to subdue the wilderness, and convert it into productive land. We arrived at London, at seven o'clock in the evening ; the route from thence, through Beechville and Woodstock, passes by some of the sweetest i?cenery, most highly cultivated farms, finest houses, and best settlements that are to be seen in Canada ; and the route from Hamilton to Goderich ; from Goderich to London; from London to Sandwich ; from Sandwich to Lon- don ; from London, through Ingersoll, Beechville, to Woodstock; from Woodstock to Paris, Brantford, and to Hamilton, should be taken by every visitor of Canada, who is desirous of beholding its beauties, or of examining its capabilities with a view to becoming a resident there. *31— 7 i.3 p^ mmmm ill :t;i Abstract from the Statistical Returns of the County of Huron, October 3], \8iO, The Settlement of which was commenced by the Oanada Company in 1828. TOWNSHIP. § I Williams, E. C. R.. McGillivray North Easthope . Downie Eilice ......... South Easthope . Colborne Gore of Downie , Usborne Logan Tuckersmith . . . Elay Stanley Biddulph Hibbert Hullett Fullarton Bosanquet Goderich Stephen Town of Goderich Williams, W. C. R. Mackillop 453 142 544 241 208 389 225 153 138 9 342 60 211 420 39 62 46 125 1148 91 699 17 143 NO MEANS. Present Value of Stock and Improvement. 5905 59 21 27 19 9 26 33 15 9 ?0 6 36 42 3 11 4 21 113 7 23 514 7325 2233 2676 2761 2242 3794 4462 870 1971 5046 649 4438 5255 260 5512 343 2391 15,315 1576 18,330 «. 10 10 5 15 5 10 5 15 5 10 15 10 15 UNDER £10. Present Value of Stock and Improvement. 1 7 6 2 5 1 2 2 1 3 13 17 3031 90,486 10 61 £ 376 1515 632 258 946 74 353 67 180 277 2466 15 15 10 10 10 5 15 UNDER £50. Present Value of Stock and Improvement. 135 3141 10,424 24 6 37 8 13 24 2 9 12 15 3 16 29 4 1 1 46 4 £ s. 3393 1054 10 5454 5 1257 2090 5 3996 15 242 480 2232 15 2159 517 5 1910 4020 388 10 80 10 198 9548 1504 5 254 40,526 514 families destitute of any means on going on land, yet the present value of their stock and improve- ment is £90,486 10 61 families with means under 10/ 10,424 254 families with means under 50/ 40,526 £141,436 10 Value of stock and improvements made and pos- sessed by individuals commencing with means ' ^' . varying from 50/. upwards 100,850 17 9 Total value of stock and improvements in the county of Huron, as per Statement herewith £242,287 7 9 Total population 5905 Goderich, Upptr Canada, IQth Dec. 1840. Thomas Mercer Jonbs. s. 10 5 5 15 15 5 5 r ''1, •^C;! Jit iii ltj.f" <.<»!71«i."ri:i.-i'; '-fij' ■'' Qj/Kii I ;>.'.« T^ tJ Ljq-i-lf Til ^' t ■ J ? lii /:: i: Having treated of the Huron District, first brought into notice and cultivation, by the Canada Company, it seems but an act of justice to that body, to notice their extended operations in other portions of the province ; and for this purpose I cannot but recom- mend the public attention to the three accompany- ing Tables, compiled with great care, from a large mass of- interesting matters respecting their settle- ments, obtained from the best sources in the country. I thi •» * imount of . )unt of £344 17 9 12 17 429 7 3 111 19 10 568 2 8 . ..*aVii»<«t - %v*iB-Ma<««UBe^-. cs» . £34517 12 6 323,746 1 £116,228 9 6 38,213 10 6 169,304 1 9 £323,746 1 f m Abstract from the Statistical Returns of the County of Huron, October d},\8iO, The Settlement of which was commenced by the Canada Company In 1826. TOWNSHIP. Williams, E. C. R.. McGillivray North Easthope . . Downie g 3 453 142 544 241 59 21 27 19 NO MEANS. PreMnt Value of Stock and Improvement, UNDER £10. 7325 10 2233 2676 10 2761 5 Prment Value of Stock and Improvement. I UNDER £90. Present Value of Stock and Improvement. 376 15 1515 15 632 10 24 6 37 8 3393 1054 10 5454 5 1257 01. i\. J. : i ; J ?<■ y^- . ;, ' s i :-<,: . • ■ r -'t'l '^^^r--:— '-'• III II II 514 families destitute of any means on going on land, yet the present value of their stock and improve- ment is £90,486 10 61 families with means under lO; 10,424 254 families with means under 502 40,526 £141,436 10 Value of stock and improvements made and pos- sessed by individuals commencing with means varying from 50/. upwards , 100,850 17 9 Total value of stock and improvements in the county of Huron, as per Statement herewith £242,287 7 9 Total population 5905 GotUrich, Upptr Canada, 18** Dec. 1840. Thomas Mercer Jonks. 9 I 1 *'Wz-' iiO p ;^fl , ;» . 1 m|»^. !(;?««{• \ i ( i 310 62 1188 MAI X\J V 237 12 33,373 15 169,304 1 . therein mentioned, transmitted to the Court of Directors *L[learly and positively show the Settlers' actual cases, [jjlnalysis being limited as compared with the Returns for imount of . • » )unt of jE344 17 9 12 17 429 7 3 111 19 10 Cat 568 2 8 . £34517 12 6 323,746 1 jEl 16,228 9 6 38,213 10 6 169,304 1 9 £323,746 1 I.— ANALYSIS of the RETURNS sent to the COURT OP DIRECTORS of the CAN. COMPANY'S LAND in the THIRTY-EIGHT TOWNSHIPS herein mentioned on _ NAME OP TOWNSHIP. Penons who commenced without { Capital. i Persons who commenced with a ( iLT Total Amount of "°' Property in 1840. i Average A- nountofpro- pertypoisess- sd by each in- dividual in 1840. No. Potal Amount* of Capital. Average of Capital DOS- T seised oy ol each indi- vidual. Otftnabee ...... .....••••••••• 21 4 1 18 7 6 6 2 12 24 36 4 11 15 11 2 8 3 18 1 4 1 2 20 8 15 7 7 11 35 10 3 4 £ ». d. 6i05 1500 300 4887 1085 2370 2100 270 2539 10946 2 7774 8 1684 12 4017 8940 4947 400 1470 1290 8057 350 1595 150 268 7 6 8207 5466 2298 1766 5750 6975 C 8167 C £ 1. d. 290 14 3 J75 300 271 10 155 395 350 135 211 11 8 456 1 9 215 19 1 421 3 365 3 8 59(> 449 14 6 200 183 15 430 447 12 2 350 398 15 l.'iO 134 3 9 410 7 683 5 153 4 252 5 8 821 8 7 634 1 9 233 6 10 6 2 I 2 3 19 6 4 6 6 7 2 6 5 2 2 3 1 2 1 2 1 1 £ 60 20 15 25 55 230 45 24 65 85 110 21 100 52 40 35 55 10 40 20 15 10 10 «. d. 12 6 10 15 c £ i. d. 10 10 ' 15 12 10 ' 18 6 8 12 2 9 7 10 6 2 6 13 14 3 4 15 14 3 10 10 16 13 4 10 11 20 17 10 18 6 8 10 20 20 7 10 10 10 Hamilton ...••..•.. •••••••••• Haldimand .................. Huntlov .................... Torbolton Nenean .....••••.•• ......••..» iVf Arch ... .....••.*.«••••>••■• Oxford (Johnstown Distriot) M ontftfTiie .................... nhincuacousv .......••..••... AdjaTa \ Mono } Gore of Toronto niftrlcfl Hope •••• •••• •••• ••••• Alfred 1 East Hawkesbury J Wilmot A. and B Yarmouth 1 Southwold ....• V Whitbv Sevmour ...... •••••• ••••••••■ Ekfrid Smith Douro •••••••••••••••••••••• Oiimmpr ......•..•>••••••■••• Asnhodel ......«• ■•«•••••••■• Trafalerar ••..•• Camden East ......••••••••••• Richmond ..........••••••.••• 2473 t 247 6 Sheffield 1360 C 721 t 453 6 8 180 5 Kitley 337 116,228 9 e 89 1,143 17 6 The accompanying Analysis of the Returns from Settlers on the Canada Company's Lands in London, is made without reference to the degree of prosperity attaching to each indiv they are noticed, be they good, bad or indifferent. This explanation will account for the numb< the respective Townships. From this Analysis it results that 724 persons who, on arriving in Canada, tog Now (in 1840) possess property to the amount oi Of these — 337 Settlers arrived in Canada with no Capital whatever. They novy collecti Being an average for each person of 89 Settlers arrived in Canada with Capital in sums of £20 and under to the Being an average for each person of . They now collectively possess property to the amount of . Being an average for each person of 298 Settlers arrived iu Canada with Capital in sums of £20 and upwards to Being an e verage for each person of They now collectively possess property to the amount of — — Being an average for each person of 724 Canada Comp. Office, Toronto, 31 Dec. 1840. Fred. Widoeb. JCTORS of the CANADA COMPANY showing the AVERAGE state of the SETTLERS upon the *S herein mentioned on their arrival in UPPER CANADA, and their actual condition in 1840. ions who commenced with a Capital of £20 and under. Persons who commenced with a Capital over ;e20. Total Amount Average of Capital DOS- Total Amount Average amount of pro- perty possesi- No Total Amount Average of Capital pos- Total Amount of Average amount of pro- perty pot;8esi' of Capital. 1840. '/ •" ed by each in- of Capital. Beased by each Property in 1810. ed by each in- vidual. dividual in 1840. individual dividual in 1840. £ f. d. £ : d. £ t. d. £ «. d. £ 1. d. £ t. d. £ 1. d. £ .. d. 60 10 1440 240 13 1575 121 3 6275 482 13 10 7 1130 161 8 6 4800 685 14 3 •■ t 7 455 65 2100 300 * 3 1320 440 3030 1010 20 10 400 £00 ■■• 15 15 1100 1100 1 50 60 200 200 25 12 10 340 170 5 730 146 1492 n 998 8 55 18 6 8 579 193 3 120 40 785 261 13 4 230 12 6 12 2 9 8353 2 439 12 8 18 1405 78 1 1 8378 17 465 9 10 45 7 10 1738 6 289 14 4 7 385 55 2034 290 11 5 24 10 6 2 6 2546 636 10 4 240 60 2630 4 657 11 11 1510 137 5 6 8150 740 18 2 65 13 1555 311 16 1610 100 12 6 15453 965 16 3 85 14 3 4 2300 383 6 8 10 1545 154 lo 6120 512 110 15 14 3 4050 578 11 5 9 715 78 6 8 6630 736 13 4 21 10 10 328 1G4 13 1095 84 4 7 2727 10 209 16 1 100 16 13 4 2842 473 13 4 62 8248 5 133 8 44820 10 722 18 2 52 15 10 11 3462 692 8 22 3738 10 169 18 7 13299 604 10 40 20 530 265 10 820 82 4500 450 19 1910 100 10 6 9925 522 7 4 35 17 10 250 125 9 630 70 3230 358 17 9 55 18 6 8 835 2 6 278 7 6 2 275 137 10 655 327 10 10 10 250 250 8 615 76 17 6 5705 713 2 6 40 20 3870 1935 5 442 88 8 2528 505 12 6 400 66 13 4 1133 188 16 8 20 20 300 300 1 350 350 1700 1700 15 7 10 800 400 5 680 136 4700 940 10 10 155 155 10 775 77 10 4345 434 10 5 205 41 1335 267 10 10 190 190 2 90 45 435 217 10 5 298 310 62 1188 237 12 1,143 17 6 38,213 10 6 33,373 15 169.304 1 !)anada Company's Lands in the Thirty-eight Townships therein mentioned, transmitted to the Court of Directors iittaching to each individual ; wherever the Returns clearly and positively show the Settlers' actual cases, ill account for the number of Settlers treated of in this Analysis being limited as compared with the Returns for I arriving in Canada, together possessed Capital to the amount of . roperty to the amount of ever. They now collectively possess property to the amount of person of £344 17 9 of £20 and under to the amount of £1 143 17s. 6d. )erson of 12 17 nount of person of 429 7 3 of £20 and upwards to the amount of £33,373 15s. person of Ill 19 10 nount of ....... . person of . . . . . . . . 568 2 8 Total amount of property . £34517 12 6 323,746 1 £116,228 9 6 38,213 10 6 169,304 1 9 £323,746 1 \1L,- t f ri oc'i> r 5^ ' OG£I e I »• *• I ■ ■ ■ T• •«••»• »*r««t« ii^ipytol ^ KMBiO dm.?, ;y ti-t'o cut • ni • •V ItV I i- ._ !.».... I » „;u.L'l •• •• • ' ..-{oll •\ ,••••••-. t(«>«>>< r'uvr^tiidiiV'X I •tTr'l"J'>jr7/.';U w'lfJ.'f .>.........,. .H bfin .A. 4«tMiliV/ f » . , . rllji.rni^^'i' .,.,,. »,..., TO 'IlVfJ''' I .. I'^w: 02 t. .. diim^j ij I i.;;.lv;a;;i>?'il «k « • t * V -' bivi ": -^h Will pi. 9.'i^r'>>9'ia'T^JII0d/!v/ ^J.bwn J»i .iKijKvl .fii ;>S'S|«?^rf*sii.y^9i ii.fii4y/jit«A..ai.jls m , -r. -j^dhli ■^':. .■ :i4^.7 • ■ ' ,mHi .""^^l tr. ,a^r(^•^^^\; >^-'\0 .CyiH^> >>Tv5n»!*3 v.. .1 ■H. i ^ M "4. Vi^' .ir--Yyi.v Md (' %: «i^i 'a>. vV f'.r:!:,) ?*^^^. '.»■ t**- i ? ;" ' " ?''- *" ^ ; ' ■ ' " - gil— t ;j-py~r»^ i . % Froi int of . Of these— 31 y ^ 1 ount of £308 19 9 10 3 10 323 8 9 125 11 7 422 11 2 Canada Company's Off £28,402 17 7 224,031 12 6 £95,787 36,548 12 6 91,696 £224,031 12 e II.~ANALYSIS of RETURNS, showing the AVERAGE itate of the SETTLEB herein mentioned on their Arrival in UPPER CANADA, a Personi who commenced without Capital. PerioDi who commenced with a Capital of ;^0 ATerage amount of p ro- Average Capital [ •esied by individv of Name of Township No. Total amount of property in 1840. perty po8ieii- ed by each in- No. Total amount of Capital. K>l- eaoh Total amount ( property in 184( dividual in lal. 1840. £ s. d. £ $. d £ «. d. £ «. d. £ s. a TyenOinoga .... 2 25 12 10 540 London 12 3025 252 1 8 4 52 13 1125 Wostminster. . . . 3 750 250 4 51 12 15 775 Wolford Etobicoke 4 2114 528 10 2 16 15 8 7 6 1083 Toronto 2 1417 708 10 Caledon 26 7720 296 18 5 6 38 6 6 8 1933 Albion 15 5176 345 1 4 2 17 10 8 ]5 1006 Vaughan 10 4185 418 10 11 33 1 3 1 5504 King 14 6806 486 2 10 14 94 7 1 6 14 9 5025 Teoumseth .... 6 2071 346 3 4 J 4 105 4 7 10 3 3046 VV. Gwillimbury 9 2580 286 13 4 7 83 10 11 18 7 3332 Zorra 44 9478 215 8 2 2 14 7 582 Oxford East 13 6917 532 1 6 Do. West .. 3 633 211 Do. North . , 3 411 137 1 10 163 Malahide 2 600 300 2 40 20 200 Orford 5 1295 259 9 135 15 4264 Carradoc 8 1886 235 15 2 40 20 375 Delaware 1 250 Lobo 5 2008 401 12 1 20 250 ( Aldborough .... 4 52 13 1350 ( Dawn 14 5610 393 11 5 1 12 140 { Bayhani 2 20 6 10 3 150 Whitcliurcli 6 2500 416 13 4 1 6 500 Chatham 12 3074 256 3 4 Eaquesing 27 9659 357 14 9 2 21 10 10 15 1260 Nelson 4 3495 873 15 Harwich 9 2646 294 14 170 12 2 10 2370 12 Cramahe ...... 11 2230 202 14 6 Murray 11 2735 248 12 9 Percy 3 50 16 13 4 425 Sidney 4 700 175 Thurlow 2 300 150 1 20 550 Hungerford .... 1 100 2 25 12 10 600 Huntingdon .... 4 1300 325 Rawdon 4 720 180 Madoc 4 440 110 Emily 9 770 85 11 1 Ennismore .... 3 286 95 6 8 310 95,787 113 1,151 17 7 36,548 12 From this Analysis it results that 640 personc who on arriving in Canada together Now (in 1840) possess property to the amount of Of these — yiO Settlers arrived in Canada with no Capital whatever. They now collective Being an average for each person of 113 Settlers arrived in Canada with Capital in sums of £20 and under, to the Being an average for each person of Tliey now collectively possess property to the amount of . Being an average for each person of 217 Settlers arrived in Canada with Capital in sums above £20 to the amount Being an average for each person of They now collectively possess property to the amount of Being an average for each person of 640 Persons. Total val Canada Company's Office, Dec, 31, 1840. te of the SETTLERS upon the COMPANY'S LAND in the FORTY TOWNSHIPS PPER CANADA, and their actual condition in 1840. oed with B Capital of jf 20 and under. Periont wlio commenced witli a Capital over £20. erageof litJ^ poi- id by each diTidual. Total amount of property in 1840. Average amount ofpro- perty posseu- ed by each in- dividual in 1840. No. Total amount of Capital. Average of Capitil poi- leased by each individual. Average amount of pro- Total amount ofperty poiseii- propertyin 1840. ed by each in- dividual n 1840. S. d. £ s. d. & : d. & s. d. £ i. d. £ $. d. £ «. d. 10 540 270 13 1415 108 17 4168 319 17 1125 281 5 16 2450 153 2 6 5600 350 15 775 193 15 21 3832 182 9 6 6425 305 19 1 . 4W 200 100 610 305 1 7 6 1083 541 10 } 6 8 1933 322 3 4 4 177 10 44 7 6 941 235 5 ) 15 1006 503 6 357 10 59 11 8 2172 362 J 1 5504 500 7 3 11 1175 106 16 4 4914 10 446 15 5 > 14 9 5025 359 10 642 10 64 5 3136 313 12 7 10 3 3046 217 11 5 I 75 725 18 7 3332 476 5 727 10 145 10 2011 15 402 7 7 682 291 7 1011 144 8 7 2782 397 8 7 - 5 1 601 50 120 4 2037 300 407 8 163 1 150 260 200 100 20 3505 175 5 11050 552 10 5 4264 473 15 6 5 265 53 2030 406 375 187 10 1 1 100 300 300 743 10 250 9 1450 161 2 2 3279 364 6 8 3 1350 337 10 4 150 37 10 1750 437 10 140 3 800 266 13 4 10050 3350 3 150 76 24 2405 100 4 2 8430 351 5 500 1 250 375 3 125 41 13 4 1175 391 13 4 15 1260 630 7 780 111 8 7 4540 648 11 5 3 425 141 13 4 1360 453 6 8 2 2 10 2370 12 6 169 6 7 20 1 2453 100 122 13 5301 660 5 265 12 6 3 480 160 1715 571 13 4 6 13 4 425 141 13 4 1 50 185 550 1 25 450 12 10 600 300 - ' ■ 2 250 125 875 437 10 3 360 120 940 313 6 8 2 114 57 425 212 10 -' 36,548 12 6 217 27,251 91,696 ifing in Canada together possessed Capital to the amount of y to the amount of r. They now collectively possess property to the Amount of ch person of JE308 19 9 £20 and under, to the amount of £1151 17s. 7d. ch person of 10 3 10 int of . . . . . . . , ch person of . 323 8 9 ove £20 to the amount of £27,251 Os. Od. sh person of . 125 11 7 mt of ........ ch person of 422 11 2 Total value of property £28,402 17 7 ,g 224,031 12 6 £95,787 3G,548 12 6 91,696 £224,031 12 6 ® CM n (f{ 5ri ' f i .R- i^iS !^^ y?»"- i^- i 5;^vi ii) s 1 ';;*/ to lil= U' I' Z^b vH t,i 'n 1 ) i- ••» •:.';;; k ft . -jj ipr ST ATEMEN possessed by the Inhabitants of the TOWNSHIPS jiion. ^ ; Present Value Means on larriv- TOWNSHIlValue of ing in Means on going )ck. ImproTements. the Country • on the Tiand. <. a. £ «. d. £ «. d. £ ». d. Goderich .... 5 43,225 22,828 9 23,644 10 7 Stephen .... 5 2588 644 637 15 Williams, E.C 5 10,231 4005 10 4005 10 Usborne ...,10 3731 756 10 566 7 3 Biddiilph ...,I5 9816 2256 1809 10 3 North Easthof 13,053 7 9 4147 12 6 5487 10 Tuckersmith.. 16,131 2710 4044 15 Ellice 5 5392 1542 10 1754 10 Fullarton .... 15 824 10 429 10 419 10 Logan , 5 306 256 5 Hay 10 1890 815 1395 6 Stanley . . „ . South Easthoi 15 8360 72 12 6 454 10,594 10 1850 2 6 2831 Colborne .... 12,701 10,545 11,645 McGillivray . . 4107 2016 15 2037 5 Bosanquet . , 10 1682 216 10 216 10 Williams, W. ( 399 524 524 Huljett 10 4817 20 1135 Mackillop . . 10 4093 2284 15 2306 Downie .... 15 4908 5 1855 5 4 2174 10 Gore of Downi 5 1263 540 1015 Hibbert .... 10 713 10 20 390 Town of Gode In all 25,380 15 10 \ » 186,206 17 9 60,110 1 10 68,749 13 1 Goderich, U} Thomas Mehcer Jones. STATEMENT in the aggregate of POPULATION, LANDS CLEARED, BUILDINGS comprising the County of HURON, taken fro: STOCK. § tn tn OQ i , TOWNSHIPS 3 s •£ •s : : Townships. Cultivated acres. Uncultivated acres. Asseument. Population Sandwich, 9,476 33,001 £39,428 2,618 Maiden, 2,107 13,694 16,070 1,459 Colchester, 2,980 14,554 11,586 868 Gosfield, 2,936 19,002 13,868 943 Mersea, 1,234 8,874 5,263 943 Maidstone & Rochester, 579 10,792 4,249 525 COUNTY OF KENT. Romney, 479 4,925 2,211 158 Raileigh, 3,087 22,220 13,58 J 1,077 Harwich, 1,279 12,762 8,378 656 Howard, 4,428 25,98'i 15,899 1.134 Or ford, 2,111 12,105 0,489 415 Camden, * 610 3,895 2,369 216 Dawn, 1,138 9,747 4,844 409 Zone, 1,166 19,342 5,921 674 Chatham, 1,546 6,319 4,891 363 Dover, 1,749 7,670 7,000 790 Plympton, 199 11,920 2,968 261 Sombra and » Walpole Island, 794 8,842 5,335 524 Moore, 153 1,447 2, "42 471 Tilbury, 942 10,758 4,967 496 Worses, 2,459 — Oxen, four year old and upwards, 2,133 — Milch Cirw«, 4,667 — Homed Cattle, from two to four years old, 1,725. The following communication I received from a highly valued and most intelligent friend. " As to soil and climate, the Western District is certainly superior to any other part of Upper Canada. Along the Detroit river, the value of land has increased within the last three years 300 per cent — the value of land is still on the increase, and the rage for acquiring property is really inconceivable. Some farmers who would have sold their farms two years ago for 1200 dollars, have refused this year 20,000 for the very same property. The intended rail road from Bertie to Sand- wich is the cause ol' this Rudden increase. Tim inumcnt that work is completed, I have no doubt but this will be one of the most prosperous parts of Upper Canada From my knowledge of the other parts of this Province, I do iin«. perceive any material dillerence here in point of n m yj 248 UPPER CANADA. f IM I', I healthfulness. Europeans on their arrival here, and settling in the woods, are subject to agues, and remittent fevers, but I have seen the same thing prevail among them in every other part of the country. — Those who have the means of purchasing improved farms are not sub- ject to these diseases. The nature of the soil is generally clay, cover- ed with six or seven inches of alluvious substance. In some places the land is rather too level, but still can be easily drained. In general the timber is so heavy, that without capital, it is very difficult to clear the land, and therefore, poor settlers must expect to undergo a great deal of hardship before they can render themselves comfortable. They have nevertheless advantages that they cannot possess in any other part of the country. The winters are so extremely mild that they can raise cattle without the least trouble, and there are thousands of hor- ses and horned cattle ranging through the forest, without ever being housed. Detroit is an excellent market for all the surplus produce of the country — the present prices are as follows : Wheat 1 dollar, Oats 2s, 3d. barley 2s. 9d. Indian Corn and Rye 4s. aurrency per bushel, Winchester measure. Poor people can easily get employment at the following rates : servant man 2s. 6d. per day and fed ; servant maid 4 dollars per month. A good mechanic from 1^ to 2 dollars per day. The town of Sandwich is not fast increasing : the present number of houses does not exceed 90, and the population of the town does not amount to more tlian 400. At present the new village of Richmond opposite to Detroit, has taken the start of Sandwich, and should the rail road terminate there, as it is most likely it will, Sandwich will never become anything of a town. There is a steam saw and grist- mill at Amhersburg. One steam grist and carding mill nearly finished at Sandwich, and one grist and saw steam mill on River aux Puces, ten miles above Sandwich. There is no pine in this part of the country ; all the boards and planks are got either from the London District or from the River Sinclair — however, building materials are not scarce, for no part of the Province is better supplied with oak, cherry and walnut trees. Fish of various descriptions are in abund- ance, and the fisheries of white-fish alone form a consiGcrable branch of commerce. I am sure on an avtrage, there is not less than 10,000 barrels of white-fish exported every year from this part of the country. Fruit, of the best quality, is in such abundance that it is almost valueless. This will give a sufficient idea of the advantages and disadvantages of this part of the Province. It will never be- come a terrestrial paradise — but it requires nothing but capital and industry to make it the garden of Upper Canada — At pre- UPPER CArfADA. 249 'wnt society is on a low scale, and we want a better class of agricultur* \iatH than our ^siove^ly French Canadians." AMHERSTBURGH IS on the Detroit River, three miles from its mouth. It Is delightfally situated, and been long settled. It is sur- rounded by some of the finest land in Canada, and is ad- mirdbly adapted for commerce. It hasi a sriiall island immediately opposite, between which and the shore there is exc(!llent anchorage ; it is sixteen miles from Sand- wich, which is at the other extremity of the Detroit Ri- ver, adjoining Lake St. Clair. The scenery along the banks of this lovely river is beautiful in the extreme, and from the fertility of the soil, and the exuberant vegeta- tion, exhibits a richness and verdure, not to be surpassed. The inhabitants are principally of French descent, and ^peak the language. Owing to the great mildness of the Iclimate, standard apricot trees, peaches, pears, apples, and plums thrive well. There are some very good gar- dens, and some tolerable houses. There is a road from Mersea on Lake Erie, by Amherstburgh, to Sandwich — It is 45 miles ; through the townships of Colchester and Maldon, the road is but little elevated above the level of the lake. From Maldon to Amherstburgh, the soil is of the finest quality, and excellent crops of Tobacco are raised. The population of Amherstburgh is about 700, — there is a large Catholic Church, also an Episcopalian, and Presbyterian, and several schools. There is an ex-, tensive common near Amherstburgh, the pasturage of which is very luxuriant. The Detroit River is about three quarters of a mile in breadth, and is nearly thirty miles in length, extending from Lake St. Clair to Lake Erie; The waters of those majestic inland seas, Lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron pass through itj on their route to the St, Lawrence. About a mile and a half frdni Amherstburgh corhmences the Huron Reserve, extend- ing along the banks of the Detroit River seven miles, and being seven miles in depth. Many attempts have been Inade to induce the Indians to dispose of this valuable territory, unsurpassed by richness of soil, beauty of scene- iy, fertility, and mildness of climate in Upper Canadd. 32 Il 550 UPPER CANAbA. Between this place and Sandwich the banks of the RlVet are low, and the country swampy. SANDWICH •Is situated on a fine rising ground, nearly opposite De- troit, the ferry to which is about a niile and a half abovri if, towards Lake St. Clair. It is the county town and •consists of a long irregular street, along the river. It ^contains a population of 500, and is attracting that atten- tion which its situation so well merits. The inhabitants are piincipally French ; there is a large Catholic Church here: — at the ferry, a considerable improvement has taken place, and many houses have been built. The land is well cleared, and free from stumps ; there are likewise some pretty gardens, and excellent orchards. The view of Detroit from Sandwich, on a summer's evening, as the sun is sinking beneath the western sky, illuminating with her last lengthened beam the lofty spires and large buildings of Detroit^ is very fine. The Detroit river con- tinues widening aboVe Sandwich, until it reaches Lake St. Clair, about seven miles distant. This lake is nearly round, about thirty miles across, and ninety in circum- ference* The river Thames which rises in the (."hippe- way country, empties into Lake St. Clair, a few miles a- bove Detroit. The soil from Sandwich, towards the mouth of the Thames, is generally good, particularly the uplands, buj immediately at the Thames there are very extensive marshes and prairies, used for grazing num- bers of horses and cattle. The Thames is navigable to Chatham, about twenty miles from Lake St. Clair. The lands, on both sides of the Thames to Chatham, are evi- dently prairie, and capable, if drained, of raising the finest crops, and it seems very likely that the settlers will endea- vour to do so, by means of Lake Erie. The road from Sandwich to Chatham passes along the shores of Lake St. Clair and the banks of the Thames. The Lake is a noble piece of water, clear, bright and as smooth as glass. On the American side the scene is diversified, — here a clump of dark forest trees, there a patch of cleared land, not yet cropped; beyond, a farm house, a barn, sonve stacks of yellow grain, an orchard just behind the bouse, and farther up, far in the distance, fields of corn. The VVVER CANADA. 2&I Big Bear Crcok also empties itself into fiiike St. Clai»V' after passing iliroiigh the beaiitifiil townships of Dawn,. Zone, Brooke, and Soiiibra, all in progress of settling, and being as rioii land as any in the Province. This lake is connected with Lake Huron by the River St, Clair, which runs south from Lake Huron to J^ake St. Clair ; it is ft»rty miles long, and nearly a mile wide. Along the J)etroit Uiver and Ijake St. Clair ar. Mumerous wind- mills, which with the gardens, orchards, and the absence of the st4imps in the cleared parts,, give it the resemblance of an Knglish scene. The great bulk of the population are Catholics, and the mission of my esteemed friend, the Rev. Angus McDonell, extends 30 miles along the De- troit River and Lake St. Clair The congregation is composed of French extraction and of Irish emigrants.-— The number of communicants is about 3,000. The pre- sent church is altogether insufficient for their accommoda- tion, — it is an old frame building 44 by 90 feet. A new- church, however, is in contemplation of brick, of the Gothic order, to be 60 bv 120 feet. The Canadians who compose the great majority of the population of Sand- wich are extremely ignorant, and have no ambition for educating their children : with the exception of four or five there is not one among them who can either read or write. The common schools are few and thinly attend- ed. The district school is a useless waste of public money,a mere sinecure, and is not in any respect upon a belter footing than the worst common school in the Province. — Amherstlxirgh, with a fine harbout*, a delightful situation, is not progressing as it ought: — indeed I am afraid that as soon as the troops are removed from it, it will decrease rapidly, unless the Indian Reserve be settled. Had not the collected folly and wickedness of last year attempted to meddle with that Reserve, it would have been settled erenow: but Amherstburgh was doomed, as well as the rest of the Province, tofed the baneful avid withering in- fluence of the venal, abandoned, and jobbing majority. Fifteen thousand acres of the Restwe have been bought by the Commissioners. Sir John Colborne got the Re- serve surveyed ; but the present worthy successor to that good man was so vilely and wickedly havrassed by tUviie •PT 252 UPPER CANADA. I „ i ! iM ! ! ' 3 pscndo patriots that he could not interfere, until happily-,, by his appeal to the peo[)Ie, he j^jn the Auy;ean siaiiles, cleansed Ironi all the filth with which they haci for \\\(\ ssssions been polluted. VWe perceive that tlio fever for purchasing land in this township is steadily tncreasinff. Most any of the farms on tite road Icadin? from Sandwich to (he Ferry coiddtwo years ago l»ave hcen bou<:h( for X375 pr i;500, and now none can be bought for Icsa than dl'ijOOO. Tho purchasers are principally Americans, who know a thing or two, and are taking advanfajje of the present favorable m' ment to purchase land i being aware that in a very short time the operations of the Detroit river Rail Road company will cause it to doul)!e its v^lue. We would can- didly advise those who have land to sell not to be in too great a hurry i for it is not to be supposed that furma situat -d on the shore of one of tiie most beautiful rivers of North America, or more properly a strait between two of the greatest lakes— a link in the chain of water comniu- fiication from New York to Micliillimacinac — will not increase, in a^ very short tiine, in tenfold their present value, when to iheir other ad- vantages is added that of their being in the vicinity of the termination of an intended rail road which will he more than 230 miles in Icnpth Let us for a moment consider tlie folly of being so precipitate in diapo- eing of valuable lands. A rail roan of more than 230 miles in length is about to be formed through the most fertile part of the Province — its termination will be in the township of Sandwich, most probably directly Opposite to the commencement of the Detroit and St. Joseph's Rail Road — making in all the longest continuation of Rail Road in the world, ^rhere is not a doubt, with reflecting persons, that the rail road will be constructed immediately, asthere are a number of wealthy Ame- ricans who will purchase all the stock, or as much of it as they can ^^A\ and this much may be said for brother Jonathan, that few of the en- terprises he undertakes are not gone through with. Michigan is filling up as rapidly as possible her vast extent of territory — and the commerce, between her and New York, and othrr commercial cities, is getting to be almost incalculable. It is well known that this great commerce ia with difficulty restricted to the summer season alone, and that Huring. the winter there is a great demand for the niercliandize which during that season cannot be procured because of navigation being closed — During the winter, then, the intercourse between Michigan and the, commercial cities of the East, throui»h our Province, would be immense. — not from the transportation of Merchandize alone, but by the number of emigrants to Michigan and the far north-west, who would prefer tra- velling the shortest route on a rail road. The township of Sandwich will naturally be the starting place and termination of all this passing wealth and emigration through our country ; and there are few who will not admit that this township especially bidH fair to become a place of very great importance. The Western District returns four members to Parlia-. APPENDiX. [No. 1. s«'o p. no.] Worthing, Dkt. 18, 1835. My Deur BiMilif-r — I received yoiir kind l«iUer the ihli nf this month, for which I am much indebted to you ; you seem surprised that I ba^ \U)\ answered your letter that you say you have sent me, hut the pre- 8ent letter is tlie only one I have received. I ani liappy to hear that 1/nu are .so very com/or table. 1 hope by the blessing of Heaven vou ^nay nlways remain so. I have heard from all three ol our brothers and Rebecca since Micchaelmas. Rebecca has just lost a chilil ; they have suffered very much with the sc irlet fever. / wish to Providence thei/ were os wflUintl comfortnhly off as you and your brother ore, though I think thp.ij hove abundance of work, but the farmers are dieadfully bad pfi' indeed — ni}' master says that nitie fijimers nut ot' fen must bre. k ; VVhe?)t is selling now at froni £7 to £0 the lond. The poor are now nmnau-ed by persons appointed by the government; large work-bnuees arp built all over England, and ten to thirty I'arishes are united, and ever able bodied man out of employment, and that applies for relief, is obliged to go inunediately to the work-house, and work hard, live hard, or shift for himself. The mm and their withes are kept apart, and the poor children are a>KO taken from their parents and kept altogether separate from ^/irn'^Mioii'/h they say the children are taken care of and learnt to read and write I oCten think ofj'ou all when I go to church, and \v /uder if you are so vored as ' o be near a place of worship, if not I sncerely hope you ha o Bibles and Prayer Books, and then though you may be in the midst of the wild forest your prayi rs will be heard if oflTered in Christian truth. I shall exp< ct a letter from Arthur or your-, self once at least every year, giving me 'be particulars of the country where you are so happj . and every thing worth knowing. 1 shall senci your letter all roiuid to our brothers and si^tel^ for I am certain that (hey must be pleased to hear that you are so comfortable and doing sq> well — they all of them beg to be kindly remembered to you all. I hope you will send this letter to Arthur, if there is a post to v here he is, and give my kind love to him and wife and family, and accept the same from yoiir affectionate Sister, Jane Oliver. P. S. I s< (1 ! direction of George, who I am sure will be deligh ed to> receive a htlc r 'rom you from the wilds of Canada. I wish a merry Cliristmas >t:i.' lappy New Year and many of them to you all. HomeDistrict — [Se« p. 172.] Horses, 6,049— Four year old Oxen, 7,332— Milch Cows, 15,141— Horned Cattle from two to four years old, 6,259. The circulation of the Province has hitherto been managed by char- tered banks ; during the last session of Parliament a Currency bill was passed fixing the value of British and other Coins as a circulating Pro- yincial currency, likely to cause a greater circulation of coin. The IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^o 1.0 150 ■^ I.I « mil 2.0 ■ 2.5 1.8 1.25 1.4 J4 < 6" ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 V « N> V 6^ 254 APPENDIX. I 1 Upper Canada and Commercial Banks have mightily assisted the Pro> vince, although not atallsutlScient for its want9. Besides these Bankb« the account of whose aflfairs are subjoined, the Gore Bank has lately come into operation ; an Agricultural Bank has been for some time established ; and a bank styled the **Bank of the People," has also been in operation. The stock is a most profitable investment of cnpi- tal, as the folk)wing statement will show. '*At a recent auction sale, the following rates were obtained for bank stock— 10 shares Montreal bank, £09 ; 10 do. j^29 10; 10 do £30 10; and 25 do at £30 premium. 15 shares City Bank, at £7 ; 40 do at £7 10; and 23 do at £8 premium." *'The People's Bank of Toronto, have lately declared a dividend of six; per cent, for the last six months, and have called for a further in- stalment often per cent, upon the capital stock subscribed," (JENKRAL STAtBMEXT ofthe AiTairs of the Bank of Upper Canada on Wednesday the 3rd day of February, 1836 — furnished by order of the Honorable the Commons House of Assembly. Capital Stuck paid in £200,000 Amount of Notes in circulation not bearing interest qf the valuo of five dollars and upwards, £170,481 5 Do. under five dollars, - - £49,542 10 Total amount in circulation, . « . . Bills and uoteR in circulation, bearing interest, none. Balances due toother Banks, .... Cash deposited, including all sums whatsoever due from (he Bank, not beafng interest (its bills in circula- tion and balances due to other banks excepted,) Q^eh deposited bearing interest^ . ^ .. 220,023 15 29,768 18 157,755 13 8J36 19 a Q 8 7 8 'im- £616,285 6 U 4,129 2 1 RKSOURCGS OF THE BANK. Gold, silver and other coined metals in the vaults of tbeBank, viz:— In vault at Toronto, £98,730 13 5 /Lmount at the Agenciea, Total Specie, - . - . Real estate and bank furniture, ... Bills of other Banks, - . - - . Balances due from other Banks, ... Balances due by the Agencies at this date, being iponey in transitu, .... Amount of all debts due, including notes, bills of ex- change, and all stock and funded debts of every des- qriptiou, excepting the baUuces due from other banks, 479,321 2 7 £102,859 8,858 16,092 7,408 15 10 13 6 10 8. 1,745 4 4 £616,285 6 it 'We the undersigned make oath and swear, titat tl>e foregoing state- nients are correct, to the best of our knowledge and belief. i Wm. FROUDFOOT, President, Thos. G. RIDOUT, Cashier. IjSvvQrn before me atToroDto, this 6th of February, 1836. , y ' Jambs Fitzoibbqn, J. P Ai^t^ENbix Zbb MI6CKL.LANEOU8. itaie and amount of the last dividend, being for the six niontha ending Itie 3lBt December, 1835 : kate of dividend four percent on i^209,000 to amount of capital stuck paid in, ^8000 Amount of reserved profits afier declaring the last dividend 59,59 8 Do of debts due to the Banit and not paid being over due 41,169 10 2 Banic of Upper Canada, Toronto, Feb. 3, 1836. .Abstract from the Books of tiie Coir.niercial Bank of the Midland District, exhibiting a general statement of the utVuirs of tiie Institu- tion, on the 1st day of February, 1836, according to Act of Parjia- ment, 2d Wm. c. 4. Capital Stock paid in, .... ^100,000 H Bank tiotes in circulation nut bearing interest. Viz: t>f $5 and upwards, - • <£ 100,887 Under $5, - - - - - 44,375. Bills and notes bearing interest, none. Balances due to other banks and foreign agents on Exchange transactions, ..... Cash deposits bearing interest, ... Cash deposits including all sums whatsoever due From the bank not bearing interest, ... Total amount due from the bank. 145,262 380,806 12,649 1 39,600 12 5 £336,317 13 5 ttate of I yearly dividend to the 1st Dec. la^t being 4 per cent on the capital stock, .... Rate bonus paid 15th Dec. last 6 per cent. Amount of reserved profits at the time of declaring the last dividend and bonus, Amount of debts due to the bank and not paid being over due, - - - £10,724 13 11 of which £108 18 1 may be considered doubtful, /n RESOURCES or THE BANK. Gold, stiver and copper, in the bank and its offices, Real estate, office furniture, &c., ... Bills of other banks, . . . . Balances due from other banks and foreign agencies. Amount of all debtsdue, including notes, bills of ex< chiknge, and all stock and funded debts of every des' cription, excepting the balances due from other banks, 4,000 6,000 174 15 6 £34,874 3,703 7,424 5,704 10 10 10 6 10 10 1 284,610 16 6 Total amount of the resources of the Bank, £336,317 13 5 Account of the affitirs of the Commercial Bank of the Midland D'oh trict, according to the best of our knowledge and belief. J. S. CARTWRIOHT, President. ^ F. A. HARPER, Cashier. ' 8wora before me at Kingston, this 2d of February, 1836. . . W. k Gray, J. r. - 1256 APPENDIX The establishment of nine new Banks is contemplafcd, and iari crease of the capital of two old ones. The notices are : To increase the capital of ti.e Bank of Upper Canada, IH: £S00,00d Do do Commercial Bank, '■'-,'■ 500,000 iPor a Bank in Prince Edward District^ 100,000 Do Dundas, 100,000 Do Niagara, . f 200,000 Do Western District, ' 200,000 Do Brockville, ^ 2J(,',000 Do St. Catherines, ' hot stated. Do Cobourg, not mated; Do Prescotti 100,000 Da Chathami - ' 50,000 If these proposals dre complied \vith there will be a total increase iit the banking capital of Upper Canada of .£1,850,000. On this the Herald remarks : *'The fact that so large an increase of our banking bp.pital is proposed, shows not only that a large increase is actually necessary, but also that a vast amount of capital canbe furnished td fiupply that. increase ; for we cannot suppose that the persons ivho pro- . ftose 80 vast an addition to our banks, have not considered and found he means which are necessary to carry their designs into eBect." Thomas Dalton, Esq. the Editor of the Patriot, has been indefatiga- ble in his exertions to procure art extension of banking privileges to the Province, and if his admirable reasonings on the subject are ari earnest of his iot^th coming work, it will be one of the most interesting and important ever issued from the Press. The Bank of British North America is likely also to come into ope- Ntion and serve the Province materially. The Welland Canal Com- |)any, in order to carry on their affairs, have issued notes, payable at si twelve month's date — from all which it may be seen that a great in- crease of the circulating medium is absolutely indispehsible to carry Out the resources of the Province. The Leg'islative Council passed thel following Resolutions on Banking : Resolved, .That there is scarcely any duty more imperative upon the Legislature than to guard with care the commercial credit of this i*rovince with other Colonies and Countries, and to uphold the confi- dence and security of iti inhabitants in their mutual dealings. Resolved, That with a view to these objects the regulation of the tnetallic currency, and the exercise of sudi a control in regard to the fcreation and operation of Banks, as may seem most proper for securing the public against loss from a valueless or depreciated paper currency, and also against the evils which may arise from a sudden increase or diminution of the circulating medium of commercial transactions are matters which call for the vigilant and scrupulous attention of the Le- gislature. Resolved, That the admitted necessity of having a much larger ca- |iital actively employed in this Province than could be represented by ^D^ attainable quantity of specie, has naturally and unavoidably led to the creation of a paper currency to meet the wants of a rapidly inerea- •iag population and the demands of a growing spirit of enterprise. " '^t.i^'^'-'^'^j-' t^s^^^jy^v »■ APPENDIX. 357 Resolved, That while it was a perfectly new question under Wtiat Vegulations the emission of a paper currency would be most safely au- thorised it presented the following considerations: 1. That it might be provided for^solely by the establishment of a Provincial Bank, ha- ving a large capital which might from time to time be Cncreased, with branches of discount and deposite in all the Districts of the Province, giving to each District the opportunity of subscribing within itself for « due proportion of the capital stock, in the original creation of th6 institution and upon every occasion of the capital being increased, and snhjecting the afiairs of the Corporation to such regulations and con- trol as would best secure their safe and satisfactory management. Or ^dly, by chartering one other Bank in addition to such Proviilcial bank in order to ensure to the public any benefit that might arise from com- petition attd to do away with atiy otnection or appearance of objection on the ground of monopoly. Or 3rdly» by chartering ft number of banks, but a number that should be limited with caution by the Legis- lature, and only suffered to be increased gradually and in proportion to the increase in the population dnd trade of the cduntry. Or 4tbly, by chartering with little hesitation as many Banking Companies as might apply to be incorporated, relying upon the sdfficiency of the restriction^ to be contained in their charters and upon their prudent tnanagement of their affairs for protecting the publib against ievil con- sequences from their operations; Or 5thly, by permitting still greater or rather an Unlimited latitude and leaving it to the discretion of indivi- viduals or voluntary »ssociations freely td conduct all the business ot Banking without LegiHiative authority or restriction, issuing bills which are to pass with those who are willing to take them as the representa- tive of cash, in such quantities as they may choose and with no other security to their redemption than the liability which tlie law attaches td these in common wi^lrall otheil undertakings; Resolved, That the Legislature commenced by adopting the systeni first specified in the foregoing Resolutions ; that after some years it advanced, not without scruple and reluctance, to the second \ and thid first step of departure having been taken, the rapidity with which the Legislative Council finds itself pressed to advance even to the last ha»- led them to entertain serious apprehension of injury to the public from the readiness v^ith which the VDrious projects for Banking with and without charters seem at the present moment to be encouraged. Resolved, That the Legislative Council cannot forget the very great injury which a portion of this Province formerly sustained from the failure of an unauthorised and unregulated Bank ; And without nssum't ing the probability of any intentional wrong on the part of those who may be allowed to exercise the very important privilege of issuing tbeii^ notes as a circulating mediun^ still looking at the actual state of the Province and the present comRtion of its population, they cailnot but dread the very probable occurrence of ruinous losses to individuals and a calamitous shock to trade and public credit from allowing such a privilege to be exercised in any other manner than under the strict and Bcrupulous controrof the legislature^ 53 m- ^"■PF II I*: it f ' . REVENUE. The Revenue raised in Upper Gantida is not by direct taxaliot), btil by a proportion of diHies on importation by sea at the Port of Quebec \ by duties on Licenses for retailing spirituous liquors, distilling, &ic. : idutieson certain articles imported from the United States, paid by th6 importer : by duties on Licenses to hawkers, pedlars, auctioneers, at «ale8 at auction ; by bank stock dividends ) Burlington Bay Canal Tolls, and those of Kettle Greek harbour. The following table of Expenditure and Resources will show the Financial condition of the Province. > O *4 «< H ■ O m tn u § a H m Q H U o z s M M M H l< ft) O H Ml n H H O O 9 O ooo o ooo o g! 2 i .. "5 ^" i O c. b O"^ S a> c o r^ «D.o » _ w S 2. IS ti< oS B O t>?dSg ss I &3 O 09 A « .^ *; -S .£ Bh .a 3 0) u a 9 O a - w o ^= w* O.S 0.g-C OB ^ 5 ''^ 9 9*^00 O O D _- O 9 C-S O Q CO 4) 09 a>< , O 3 .2 » a m 0) (U ^Q c o ^ "" ^J *■ 'CO a (6 O la oo oooooooo&oo oo oooeodooooc 3 « 3 (U © © © © o © © ©©©©©©CO SQD©«5 •if 0) ao 9 3Dd .s V 5 2 » ff « J •» P» 2 !8 _ _ ©CO c g c — SJ** r:** ai'— A. 2 « e. •• V e o 3 0) (U 5^5 fe^ g « .B « CD ' a ^Q • Q o Bn« *- ® fc» 73 « c n O «•« « § ^ i: 4S '^Q^ ll> 9) poeooooooooo pv H S K 2 li) JO ^^ ■ f- o u i APPENDIX. 26^ There are 947 Inn-keepers, who pay each firom 32, to 10/. the duty amounting t j iw4,798. 407 Siwp-keepers licensed to sell spirttuou* liquors, coiitrihutirig ;^2,035k The number of distilleries, in galloo measure, is 6834, paying £854 5 0. 6 Steamboats paying 301. and 2 setts of Billiard tables paying 80/. The hawkers and pedlars on foot who pay 51. annually 36. ISOZ. Those who travel with one horse and who pay lOi. annually 28, 280/. And those who travel with twohorse» and who pay 151. annually 2, 30/. Total 490/. The number of auc- tioners licensed who pay 5/. annually 27, 135/. and the amount of auo-^ tion duty £615 17 0. The years import duty from the United State» £13,898; the gross Revenue of the Province during the year was £79,450: and that it will continue toincrease».so as-to enable the Pro- vince to liquidate their dbbt, with great ease, is evident. The princi- pal difficulty experienced wa» in inducing capitalists to embark their means in u Province, where so- mucl» insensate politicjal agitation ex- isted. That task was led to the Hon. J. H. Dunn, who accomplished it in a manner worthy (^ his character ; and who by his zeal efiectually removed tUiit uneasiness'which was felt in a powerful degree relative to the resources and stability of the Province. I certainly differed in the view which Mr. Dunn took of the nature of the offices and duties of Executive Councillor ; it appeared to me that the whole difficulty arose from a desire that the duties should be enlarged, and the nature of the office changed, but certainly the gentleman who thought so should have refused to- have accepted of the office, unless its duties were congenial with their wishes, rather tlvan make their objection aAer finding they, were not as comprehensive as they could wish. Notwithstanding this, no person who is acquainted with Messrs. Dunn, Robinson and Wells,, can for one moment suppose, that they are one whit less attached to the British supremacy, than the most atdent supporter of the view which the Governor took of the question, nor that they would hesitate an in- stant, in shedding their blood in defence of that government of which) they have always proved most devoted and loyal subjects. The following extracts from the interesting correspondence which took place, relative to the Loan, will clearly demonstrate the zeal and activity manifested by Mr. Dunn, in his intercourse with the monied interests of Great Britain ! <'I made myself personally acquainted in every quarter where I might likely meet with success, and aifnrded every information I possessed in respect to and for the benefit of Upper Canada ; but I found consider- able reluctance amongst the monied houses to have any thing to do with the loan, from the very great excitement which had been produced from the rumors and reports in circulation relating to the state of the Canadas ; and it is a well known fact, that those rumors affected all Canadaian stocks : that of the Canada Company, which had maintain^ ed a premium of 55 per cent, fell, in consequence of these rumors, to 33 per cent — und the Upper Canada Debentures, from a premium, had fallen to about par. I thought it best, therefore, tonegociate the whole loan in the manner which I deemed tlie most advantageous, and I hope it will appear as favourable, under all considerations, as could be ob- tained. 1 employed myself most assiduously for the interests of Upper Canada, and without tiavi tig gone to England, I think I should not wmwumifmiifm JI60 APPENDIX. Iiave been enabled to carry the intentions of the Legislature intu effect." **Our present debt is 180,000/. currency, and 200,000/. sterling in London. The whole of these sums have been expended in public improvements, canals, harbours, roads, &c. most of which are product- ive and will ultimately redeem their cost. The present loan is to ini- - J trove the St. Lawrence, and to construct a canal so as to admit vessels i'ora the Ocean to lakes Ontario, Erie, &c. It is the general opinion that the revenue from the canal when finished will soon|>ay the iotetest and principal. The revenue on which the loan is setured, as well a» the other two, is quite ample to meet the interest and all other demundai on it. The Province i» increasing in population and wealth, and the Revenue, though not so favourable as in 1833, yet there is no appre* liension that the cause which produced the falling off, will have uny permanent effect, Thie revenue is entirely derived from duties levied ftt the Port of Quebec, being about 2| per cent, sterling, ad valorem, upon all wares and merchandize, and about 6d. sterling per gallon vpon wines, spirits and other liquors, and a small amount in Upper Canada from commerce with the United States of America, and on li- cences for the sale of wines, spirits, &c. No duties whatever on ex- ports. There is no direct tax upon the inhabitants of this Provincei^ paving for local and special purposes. The law fixes the value of one pound on cultivated, and on uncultivated lands, four shilliiigs per acre,^ and all other property is rated equally low, and assessed at one penny in the pound, no part of which is paid into the public treasury." Extract of a letter from Meisrs. Thomas Wiloon &• Co. to Mr. Dunn. **We beg to state, thatwe consider your arrival in this country a most fortunate pvent, in respect to the negotiation for a loan, with which you, have been charged by the Government of Upper Canada, there having ^een so much exaggeration and misrepresentation on the subject of the Canadas. It would be impossible, perhaps, to remove from the public mind the pifejudice and alarm which prevail, not only respecting the Lower, but the Upper Province. We trust, however, that the state- ments you have made will enable us to dispel the uneasiness of the ca-. pitalists with whom we are associated, and restore in some degree to. the Debentures of Upper Canada, the currency and value we had suc- ceeded in giving them Inht year. A loyal, intelligent, and industrious, population, such as you describe the Upper Canadians; in a country possessing great natural resources, with the fostering care of the Go- vernment, cannot fail to give to that Government, at no very dist-. ant periodji a high degree of public credit. Under these impiessiong find actuated by a nincefe de&ire to promote your views, we have beea induced to offer, for the 400,000 on Canada Debentures, 100^. But we must own to you, that we should have been much better pleased if the negociatiou of them could have been deferred till the result of the Canada Commisiion had been ascertained, and some idea could b^ formed what turn affairs will take in the Lower Province." Extraot from a letter from Meiire. Barinf , Broth«ri & Co. to Mr. Dunn, *^It only remains for us now to express our satisfaction at thus enter* ing into connectioi; with the Province of Upper Canada^ and to b^ajr APPENDIX. 261 our fbebtfl testimony to the honourable zeal with which yeu havecoo'^ ducted the operation confided to you, whilst we add, that we shali al- ways be happy to devote our services to the interest of the Frovince^'^ ROADS. / The Roads in the Province are both made and repaired by Statute labour, and occcaional Parliamentary grants; every adult is compelled to do his proportion of this work, but the number of days which each individual who posansses houses or land is to work, is regulated by the- tiHsessment. The roads, however, can never be good, until commu-^ tion takes place, so as to enable the different townships to convert the personal services required from the people into small sums of money, payable annually. By this mode roads could be both made and mend- ed. During this present year, at the latter end of the month of May« one of the path-masters in the Jersey Settlement, called out all his men to perform their full quantum of statute labour ; the road was well finish* ed. In the first week of June a violent and unprecedented storm took place, rendering the road worse than before its repair; the statute labour having been expended, the road has become worse and worse, andcan> not be improved until the period for imposing statute labour occurs again. This is by no means solitary ; it is to be hoped that as the present House of Assembly will not consume its time, and the people's money, in vain discussions about elective Legislative and Execu^ tive councils, vote by ballot, and a farrago of revolutionary twaddle ; that they will occupy themselves more beneficially in establishing such in- ternal regulations and improvementa as will reiider them most service- ^ible to the Province. MILITIA. Aco^rding to the present law, every man above eighteen and under fony, must train fur the militia ; they are culled out three times every year, the annual muster day being the 4th of June, It is scarcely pos« sible to conceive any thing more ludicrous than this annual exhibition. No one can deny the utility of a properly organized military force, and it is much to be lamented that a selection could not be made from eact\ township in every district, to form a regular,, decent, effective militia,, exempting them from statute labour, serving on juries, providing them with arms and acoutrentents, and rendering them a respectable and available body for any purpose they might be required. At present it is a hardship on the great body of labourers, and is but an incentive ta drunkenness and disorder. This is another subject well worthy of parliameotarv consideration. SCHOOLS. One of the most interesting, as it avowedly is, one of the most im- portant subjects, that can occupy the attention of the Province, is th& establishment of schools, that will place the o^tportunities for educa-> tion within the reach of every father of a family. Observation is the very element of experience, and a proper knowledge of things is th& consequence of a persevering and unprejudiced observation. Ta what, but to those admirable nurseries of virtue, with which Scotland abounds, can be attributed, the morality, frugality, industry, and prosperity so generally to be met with in that country: — to what, but ^Q that circumstance do ne look upon the arrival of a body of 8<;otcU I 202 APPENDIX. emlgranto, as an invaluable tre&surel Their parochial schools, with IKhool libraries, has made them the honest, frugal, worthy, industri- ous people they are. From the Educational Statistics of the High- jiinds and Islands, compiled in 1833 from parochial ret'.rna, I find the following analytical results; — In the Synods of Argyle } two Presbyteries in Aberdeen, (Alford and Kincardine O'heil;) the Synods of Moray, Ross, Sutherland, and Caithness ; Grlenelg, Orkney, and Zetland, comprehending 220 par- ishes, and a population of 51)4,955, The number of schools not including Sabbath and week-dav evening schools, and of scholars are, of Parochial Schools 273, scholars, l4,202 ;— ^Schools supported by pocieiies, 315, scholars, 18,085; — Schools endowed, or partially so, or supported by subscription, 137, scholars, 6,314; — Schools oi> teach- ers' own adventure, without salary, 372, bcholars, 13,728: — Number schools, l,097i-r-Number of scholars, 52,329— besides 418 Sabbath schools, 20 week-day evening schools, and about 80 Schools oflndus-^ try of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, During tb«i administration of that enlightened, consistent, and venerable states man. Earl Grey, a system of education was established in Ireland, ia accordance with a plan, sanctioned and approved of by the dignita- ries of the Catholic and Protestant Churches, enlarged, comprehen- aive, and eOfectual in its operation, and admirably adapted for this Pro- vince, \o meet the wants of its large and unprovided Catholic Popu- lation. It is really melancholy to traverse the Province, and go inta many of the common scl ools; you And a herd of children, instructed by aome anti-British adventurer, instilling into the young and tender mind sentiments hostile to the parent state; false accounts of the late war ia which Great Britain was engaged with the United States : geography setting forth New- York, Philadelphia, Boston, &c., as the largest and (inest cities in the world ; historical reading books, describing the American papulation as the moat free and enlightened under Heaven i. insisting on the superiority of their laws and institutions, to those of all the world, in defiance of the Agrarian outrages and mob supremacy daily witnessed and lamented; and American spelling-books, diction- aries, and grammar, teaching them an anti-British dialect, and idiom ; although living in a Province, and being subjects, of the British Crown« GEOLOGY. Besides the iron which has already been discovered in the Province, valuable specimens of lead ore have been found in the County of Dun- das — in the townships of Clinton and Madoc — viens of coal have been lound in Caledon and other parts— gypsum is met with in inexhaustible quantities — salt springs strongly saturated are numerous — and somo sulphurous springs have also been found, one of great strength in the township of Ancaster. In the township of Wood house, near Port Do- ver, there is a creek, called Sinking Greek, which has a subterraneous courHeufa n\ile or twu, and after oozing again from the bowels of tho earth, its character becomes entirely altered, being strongly impregna- ted with sulphur. "Several Mines we are credibly informed, have been discovered in ^iflferent parts of the Eastern District, and so great is the interest f!;(citec( among our inhabitants that persqaa are to b9 seen in every di- Ai>P£iNbix 365 Y^dtioti ranging through the forests and fields in searcH of hidden trea- 'fiures. In the township of Beverly, it is said a copper mine of great extent has been fouad, the ore has been analyzed aud contains a certain portion of gold, a company has been formed to work the mine, and an application made to Gouernment to allow them to do so, which itseenM has been granted under certain restrictions. A lead mine has also been discovered in the township of Mountain, which contains ore of so rich a quality, that the people residing in its vicinity have moulded bullets from it in its natural state. Another mine has been Ibund which is said to contaiii a mixture of copper and lead. 'We have no hesitation in saying that our country abounds in mines and minerals, and that all that is requred, is enterprise to discover, and industry and perseverance to convert them to the useful purposes of life." tlEPORT OF THE SELECT COMMITTEE, bp TttE leoibLatIve: council OxN the salr of ckovvn lands. ! The Committee have thought it expedient to call before them certain ))ersons resident in different parts of the Province, in order to gain as extensive information as is practicable, and at the same to put the Le- gislative council in possession of such facts and opinions as might tend to throw light on the important subject of enquiry. The result of the investigation has had the effect, in no small degree, to strengthen the opinion formerly entertained by the committee that the present system pursued by his Majesty's government, in the disposal of public lands, and settlement of the Province, is not one well calculated toattract either the wealthier class of emigrants who visit the Colony in search of a permanent abode for themselves and friends, or of those settlers pos- isessed of more limited means who annually press forward to the west- ern States, Contrasted as it naturally is, with the more favoc^ble terms afforded for location by the Government of that country. Ihere, al- though {mblic sales have hitherto taken place before applicants were permitted to make their locations by private bargain, yet such is the celerity and simplicity of all the arrangements for the settlement of these extensive territories, (hat an emigrant may proceed to one of their land offices, make a purchase, and receive his patent from the Government in one half of the time consumed by his friend who lingers in Upper Canada, waiting the uncertain issue of a public sale, or prr<> vate application for purchase from tiie Government, of some lot or tract of land, which he might desire for his future residence. It is true that the accommodation which a credit of 6ve or ten years af^)rdB ttf persons of straightened circumstances, tnay be regarded as a beneficial indulgence on the part of the Government. But when the high upset price, with accumulating interest, is taken into consideration, together with the fact, that but a small number of the purchasers are found abler to pay the instalments as they become due, it may be asked if the ulti- mate prosperity of the people themselves would not more certainly be secured, if credit sales wete altogether abolished, and such an abate- ment of the valuation made as would induce multitudes of emigrants, and other settlers possessed of immediate means, to take up allotments trho now flock to settlements much more remote from market, and where neither the soil nor climate is preferable to millions of acres ai the disposal of Government in this Province? High upset prices es" S64 APPENDIX. tablished for sales of land at a long credit, are, besides, dlBcoiirng^in^ to such settlers as have tho means of payment at once — and the i^elect Committee conceive that in all cases where the purchaser is < nnhled to make immediate payment, a discount of at least ten per cent, from the price of the lancis should be given. With respect to that Resolution which recommends the establishment of an agent for the sale of lands in each District, er other principal town, the committee cannot but entertain the most favorable opinion^ convinced as they are that so long as all applications must be made to the Commissioner of Cro^n Lands, at the seat of (lovernnient, just so long will uncertainty, delay, and disappointment continue ; for how can that officer, let his anxiety to do justice be ever so great, decidd satisfactorily upon conflicting claims for land, removed so distant au the contending parties often are, from all opportunity of personal in- vestigation by him f consequently much dissatisfaction has arisen in variovs Districts of the country, to obviate which, in future, the commit- tee recommend the change sought for in that respect. One obvious ad- vantage to the public at large, would immediately follow such a regu- lation, which is, that inall the Districts lying eastward of Toronto, lands now offered for sale by private individuals, as well as the waste land of the Crown, would attract the notice of emigrants resorting to the offices of the several land agents, and thus induce the settlement of numerous wealthy families, who otherwise, under the present system, would never think of looking at any part of the country, until they had reached the seat of government, and after all, leave the Province wea- ried with delay and disappointment. Theire appears great apprehen- sion on the part of some of the witnessesses examined by the commit- tee, that if the price of land were reduced, much of it might be purcha- sed by speculators, to the manifeac injury of emigrants; and other per- sons of limited means ; but this danger can easily be avoided, by ma- king aciual residence on the lot, a condition of sale, and by limiting the quantity sold to each individual. It has frequently happened in va- rious townships that lots are found to contain a much less quantity of land, than that at which they were disposed of by the Commissioner, and it would seem that no discretion is left with hiin in such case, the committee conceive that in all instances of this nature, no greater num- ber of acres should be paid for by the purchaser, than the lot is found to contain, hy a competent surveyor, whose certificate might safely be received as proof. To prevent the possibility of corrupt practices on the part of the Dis- trict Agents, or what is termed by some of the witnesses favoritism, the committee would recommend the appointment by his Excellency the Lieutenant Governor, of a Board of three or more respectable in- habitants in each District, whose duty it should be to decide on all disputed cases which mi^ht arise between the Agent and any appli- cant or applicants, for the purchase of lauds ; this arrangement the committee think, need not to be attended with expense, as it is presum- ed that few persons wou'd refuse to sacrifice a small portion of time, \o promote the settlemen of the country. By such a salutary system, no complaints would be heard from contending applicants, as is at pre- sent the case, peace and confidence would be restored, and every settlfv APPENDIX. 366 e- desirous of purchasing land of the Government, might depend on an immediate location, free from the heavy charges which he is now liable to bear either by the employment of an agent at the seat of Govern- ment, or by undertaking a journey thither himself, and very frequently in boih ways. Your committee are of opinion that the business of the public offices should be so conducted, that every individual having lo correspond with the head of a department, might be able to obtain information, without being obliged to retain the assistance of an agent. This leads to great inconvenience, expense, and delay ; before closing this report, the committee cannotwithhold their opinion, that a portion of the monies derived from the sale of Grown lands should be expend- ed in opening, at least, un^ principal road through every township of «he Province. All which is reepectfully submitted. W. MORRIS, Chairman. Committee Room, 16th March, 1836. CRICKET. . The national character is as much influenced by Us games, as by its Bungs ; it is therefore with the greatest pleasure I have witu terloo Township, in the Newcastle District, and in the Home District. Bishop Macdonell has long desired to erect a College for the education of youth for the Priesthood, on a beautiful and commanding piece of ground, skirted by a fine grove of lofly and maj»stic pines, overlooking the town and suburbs of Kingston, together with the St. Lawrence and lake Ontario, and their lovely islands. Very R«v. Dr. Kfaodonald, Rev. J. MnDonough, Kev. James Champion, Rev. Jno. Butler, Rev. G. DelaHaye, Rt, Rev. Dr. Gaulin, Rev. P. McDonough, CLERGY. Rev. Jno. Ca^idy, Bishop MoDonell, Rev. — Polin; Rev. — Gordon, Rev. M. Brenoan, Rev. M. La lor, Rev. Jas. Bennett, Rot. J. McDonald, Rev. W. P. McDcneir, Very Rev. A. McDonel)^ Rev, Dani»l Downie, Rev. J. Keegon, Rev. J. Loslrie, Rev. — Morin, A Census of the Catholic Population of Upper Canada; 1834. Eastern District — Mission of 8t. Raphaels. PopuIatioB. 4,765 Thetownahips of Charlottenburg, Lancaster, KenyoD, and the Indian Reserve, two churches, Mission of St. Andrews. The townships of Gornwall, Roxboro', Williamsburg, Finch, Osna- bruok, and Matilda, two churohes, 3.587 Ottawa District — Mission of Longeuil. The Seignory of Longeuil, Petit Nation, part of Hawksbury, Calc* donia and Plantagenet, two ishurches, 9;654 Johnstown District — Mission of Prescott and Brockville. Frcsoott, Brookville, the townships of Augusta, Elizabethtown, Baa- tard and Kitlcy, two churches, 1,528 Bathurst District — Mission of Bytown. Gloutciter; Ncmm, Goulburo, Bcokwitb, Raauay, Huntley, and March, two CDurobcs, 3,SS1 APPENirix. 269 '' " Mission nf Perth. < * Elmsley, Dathurat, Dnimmonf), Dxlhousie, Darling, Lanark, Pnkenham, Fitzroy and Macnub, one church, 8,643 Midland Distrirt — Mission of Kingston. The townships or Kingston, Pittsburg, Leeds, Loughborough, Porti hnd, Isle of Tunii and Lontr Island, three churchea, 4,163 Ualtoioell District — Mission of Belleville. The townships orTyendinnga, Thurlow, Sidooy, Murray, Marmora and Madoc, four churches, 1135 Newcastle District — Mission of Peterboro* . Hamilton, Hope, Monaghan, Cavnn, Drummer, Asphodel, Otonabee, Douro, Smith. Inisfil, Emily, Ops and Tborah, two churches, S, 584 Home District — Mission of Toronto. The city of Toronto, townships of York, Scarboro', Pickering, Dar- lington, Markham, Whitchurch, E. and W. Cwillimsbury, 2 churcbea 3,240 Mission of Adjnlo. Vauglinn, Albion, Adjalo, Tecumseih, Mono, Caledon, Chinguacouty, and Gore of Toronto, two churches, S,356 Mission of the Townships of Toronto and Trafalgar, Toronto, Trafalgar, Nelson, Nassegoweya, Esquesinp, 785 Mission of Penetanguishine. Oro, Oritla, Tiny, Toy, Medonte, Plus, Vespra, Sunnidaieavd Coldwater, 856 Gore District — Mission of Guelph and Dundas, Wenttvorth, Flamboro', Dumfries, Beverly and Waturloo, two churcbea, 1,537 Niagara District — Mission of Niagara. Niagara, Haldimand, Lincoln, and Norfolk, two churches, 2,040 London District — Mission of London and St. Thcmas. Yarmouth, Soutliwold, Westminster, London, Lobo, Carracioc, Ade* laide, Goderich and St. Thomas, two churches, 3,536 Western District — Mission ofthj River Thames. Camden, Chatham, Dover, Sombra, River Si. Clair, Tilbury E. and W. (So) S,600 Mission of Sandwich. Rochester, Maidstone, and Bandwich, 4,724 Mission of Amherstburgh. The Huron reserve, townships ot Maldon, Colchester, Gasfield, Met sea and Romney, 2,580 The London and Gore Rail Road. There are few projects afloat throughout the Province, so likely to prove advantageous to the country, and profitable to those who carry it into eflfect, as the Rail Road from Hamilton, at the iiead of lake On- tario, to London. It would ensure the trade of the Western and Lon- don Districts being carried to lake Ontario, instead of being diverted by the Erie canal from it altogether : it would puss through the rich and flourishing towns and townships of Ancaster, Brantford, Beech- ville, Ingersoll, Oxford, to London, 80 miles from Hamilton; thence to Chatham on the lovely Thames, 70 miles farther ; and finally termi- nate at Sandwich, 58 miles farther on the west; passing through the most prolific portion of the Province, inducing travellers to the far west, to take up their location on the route, from the unequalled advantages it unfolds to their view. Any individual looking at the map will find that Kingston, at the extremity of lake Ontario, is nearly on a parallel with Sandwich, on lake St. Clair, taking Hamilton in the intermediate dist- ance ; and since Utica has been connected with Albany by rail road, th§ saving of time from New York to the west, to the traveller, by thia 270 APPENDIX. route, would be at least three days. The Province of Upper Canada ought to be greatly interested in its completion. Timber Trade^ taken from the Report oj the Committee. In 1835, the amount in tons of exports from duebec, was 540,251* value sterling ^1,037,287. In the year 1829. there were cleared from the Province 1005 vesselsr measuring 253,992tons, manned by 11,449 seamen, of which Cleared for the United Kingdom^ 745 vessels, 220,066 tons, laden with timber, 54 do 13,302 tons, goods. Cleared fur other parts, — 206 vessels, 20,624 tons, laden with tim- ber, fish, flour, provisions, &c. In 1825, there were cleared 1266 vessels, measuring 341,216 tons, manned by 14,806 seamen, of which rteartd for the Unied Kingdom^ 967 vessels, 305, 571 tons, laden with timber; 56 do 15,015 do goods. Cleared fur other parts, 243 vessels, 20,630 ions, with timber, fish, &c. In order to estimate the loss that would result from the blow aimed at the trade, your committee have endeavored to ascertarn the value of the property embarked in it The information received varies a good deal but (he amount of capital permanently invested is probably not overra- ted at £150,000. One of the gentlemen applied to has transmitted a Hit of the various saw mills in Upper and Lower Canadat whose pro- duce is exported from the St. Lawrence; and of the lumber establish- ments and ship-yards in Q,uebec, apparently'compiled with care and accuracy, which he values as follows : Saw mills estimated to cut annually 3,000,000 pieces of deals .£316,700 Lumber and ship building establishments, 120,000 the value of river craft estimated at 12 to i;20,000, assume it to be 15,000 And the total value of property permanently engaged in the business may be stated at £451,700 currency ; the capital engaged in this branch of trade diRers from that in many others ; it cannot be with- drawn or diverted into other channels without a heavy sacrifice, and in the event of the proposed alteration in the duties taking place, your committee entertain no doubt that a great part of the property must be- come of little value, and the amouni invested in saw mills, booms, &c> would be nearly a total loss. The number of persons in these Provinces who derive their subsist- ence, directly or indirectly, by manufacturing, transporting and ship- ping lumber, is estimated at iwenty-four thousand, amongst whom a large amount is yearly distributed in wages and provisions, and all the accounts transmitted to your committee, concur in stating that the curtailment of the trade would be most severely felt by th3se people, there being no occupation in the country to which they could immedi- ately betake themselves. Your committee are warranted in estima- ting the amount of ship's disbursements for pilots, labourers, ship car- penters and other tradesmen, at the ports of Gtucboc and Montreal, at cC150,000 per annum, and the lose thereof or the proportion consequent on the great decrease in the number of shipping arriving at these ports, would be severely felt by the resident population. Your committcarc of opinion that the timber trade is further of essential service to these Provinces, by aflfordingthe means of cheap conveyance from the Uui- AtftNblX 271 t«(l Kingdcnrij and thereby promoting emigration, and to the emigrants themselves equally serviceable^ in addition to cheap conveyance, by providing employment for them at good wages immediately on their arrival, whereby many obtain funds for the purchase of lands which their previous occupation has fitted them to clear. Nor would the injury to the Province, arising from the diminution of this branch of busiuesSf be confined to the effectual stop which it would put to emigration from the United Kingdom to this Province, it would extend to all classes of the community. The information furnished to your committee clearly proves, that in many parts of the Province, and more particularly in the Districts of Q,uebec and Three Rivers, the small farmers largely depend for their {subsistence during winter, as well as for the purchase of seed corn, on the pioduce of their logs, and that when failures of crops have occurred, the distress without this resource must have been very great. Your committee further submit that the. trade is of great service to the Province, by the inducement which it holds out to the formation of settlements in the distant parts of the country by opening roads, diminishing the expense of clearing forest lands, and aflTording to the farmers a market for their surplus produce at their own door. Some idea may be formed of the House of Assembly which Sir F, Head dissolved, from the fact of 7 of their number having given the following vote on the Timber Trade : Resolved, That it is incumbent on this House as the representatives of the people of Upper Canada, to urge upon his Majesty's ministers, the great importance of continuing the protective duties on the timber trade of these Provinces — and to point out the ruinous consequences that must result to this most important branch of our commerce, should these duties be reduced in favor of foreign importations into the United Kingdom. Yeas, 32. Nays, Messrs. Duncombe, Durand, Hopkins, Macken- zie, McMicking, Morrison, Thorburn, 7. The question of amendment was carried in the affirmative by a ma- jority of 25. INDIANS. I had long felt an earnest desire to witness the Indians at their de- votions, and takingadvantage of the beautiful state of the weather, and the e?-! '!ent sleighing, I made one of a party, in company with the Messrs. Suters, on Sunday, Feb. 14, to the Mohawk Church, near Brantford. The Mohawk Indians are a portion of those tribes of In- dians, who came over to the Province from the United States, when the latter separated from the Mother Country, they possess, therefore, double claim on the attention and respect of the Government. The Church in which they worship in the Mohawk village, is a frame build- ing surmounted by a spire, it is situated on the very verge of the Grand River, and from its being painted white, may be seen from the high grounds above the river, for a considerable distance, and forms, togeth- er with the windings of the river, and its well wooded banks, a very picturesque scene. The Indians paid the greatest attention to the ser- vice, the sermon was interpreted to them, sentence by sentence, by au interpreter, an Indian, who was stationed by the Clergyman, and also 272 APPENDIX. acted as clerk. The squaws sung the hyms very sweetly and liartkio* niously, and the whole service was welt calculated to produce a pow- erful emotion. The British government have done, and are still doing, all they can to instruct, elevate, civilize them. On observing the King's Arms at one end of the Church, I could not suppress a wish* which rose spontaneously in my heart, that there they might long re- main a shield and protection to the unfortunate Indians, who, in their ardent love and attachment to Great Britain might cause the blush of ahame to mantle in many cheeks, and who duly snd properly estimate and appreciate the fostering, sustaining, parental, pjotecting Govern- ment to whom they are so intimately allied. At the close of the ser- vice an infant was brought to the altar to be baptized, it was swathed up in a basket cradle formed like a canoe, with a hoop at the top by which the child is rocked in an upright position. It was gaily bedizen- ed with trinkets, and clad in scarlet a'nd blue. The parents were de- cently attired, and seemly properly impressed with this first and most indispensible of Christian ritea AAer service we glided along mer- rily in our sleigh, and dined at the tavern of Mr. Lovejoy. I was so much gkatified with this visit, that I mad6 one of another party, on Sunday, Feb. 28th, to the Tuscarora village. We leil the viuage of Ancaster at eight o'clock, the thermometer being then, only 4 degrees above zero, although the morning was bitterly cold, the sun shone bright, the atmosphere without a cloud, and the sky of the most lovely blue. The sleighing was superior to any thing I had ever witnessed before during three winters. The road to this village is ten miles from Ancaster, on the same route as that to Brantfbrd, but on coming to Fairciiild's creek, the road turns off to the left, before passing over the new bridge erected over that creek on the Mohawk road. The road then winds for some distance along the banks of that creek passing some of the finest flats I have seen in the Province, the timber covering them being of the best quality and largest growth — maple^ beech, elm, oak, hiccory, and cher.-y, interspersed occasionally with pine. After pursuing this course through the wood a few miles, we came suddenly on the banks of the Grand River, which are here not very high, but perpendicular, the windings of the river can be seen both above and below for some distance. A mile and a halt further is the Tuscarora village, consisting of several log houses, a large school house, also used as a Churoh. The country here is very extensively and excellently cleared on both sides of the river for a considerable distance : the al- luvial flats on the banks of the river are cultivated with Indian corn and the uplands with wheat, rye, and other grain. The settlement here eeems very flourishing and creditable to them. I regret muoh that from my first arrangement, as well as from the hurry and incon- venience ofpublishinga work in a newspaper otHoe, in the short space of six weeks; I aio precluded from giving a mass of mattor which I hiivc colloetod relative to the Pust-Otlice — Press — Crimmal Statiaiics — Kingston & Toronto Hospital Reports— ^ Extent of Travelled Roads— Advice to Pour Emigrants — Indians, &c. &o. bbould this account, however, meet the approbation of the public, I will either give thes* particul'irs in a supplement, or in a now edition, leaving out the few chapters on ths West Indies. :'pci»mr^-?i:mi^ii^-y^'imM^ ?i .J. ^._,.^^_.I. v.^ .JA^f^r*\: .Jt^ifun.. i' ir> .n/i-i • »v. ...t.- :^-'''*:r(*<«i ^IIPPLEinErVTARY AC'COIJIW'F. «33r ':-jJ* .If.-. ■;?i'.%vli!4ifl'#-:*i,|e» Indians. 1 have ttBte^ in my account of the Tusearora •ettlement, thai tHl ' ^country was extehBively and excellently cleared bii both sides of th^ &iver, tlie printer forgot to insert, entirely py Vbe Indians. They hold their service in the School-house at presentt bijit t^ spaciouft Church is in progress of erection. The Christians of the Mohawk and Tusearora tribeA, located on this river, belong to the .EpiivcOpal Church of Eng> land. The pastor, of the lajtter tribe, the Rev. Mr. Nelles^ is the son of. a very bid settler in the Province, iand is a young man of exemplary deportment, and uhassitihing manners. He.informed me that there were about ^300 Indians belonging to the ^ix Nations, and ihat thd "greater p6rtioh 6^ them were still Pagan, preserving their eibveral rite«« observing their quarterly festivals, and sacrificing annually a white dog. It wOuld seem, from the peHods, selected foir their fisstivals, that they Worship the sun, as the source of fertilify and light Mr. Nelles read the prayers with much Huency, in the Mohawk language; He intro^ ducedme, after service, to the Chief of the Seneca tribe, whoiscallr ed the Fire-keeper, whose province it is to light their council fires, and without whose authority a council cannot be convened ; he was a most venerable looking^ white haired old man, of tall stature, distinguished by a black hat, broad ribbon, atul blue coat ; cloth leggins caaed hi* lower limbs, and on his feet were the M^ht moccasina of deerskin, or- namented with porcupine quillii. He had not nitiib«ir embi^ced Chris* tianity, but advised all those, ov^r whom he had any influeuoe^ to at- tend and listen to the instructions Of the Chriat^an teachei'. His re> luotance to embrace its doctrines, arose flrom his diaioclinatidit to fbi* low its precepts, by abandoning the doctrine of polygamy, which het Eractised. Mr. Nelles is principally supported in his interesting labors y a society established as far back as the reign of Charles IL for th«t express purpose of civilizing and propagating the gospel timong the Indians. The Indians had also given him fifty acres of fine land^ for a glebe, on which he has erected a very comfortable habitation, situated, on the banks of the river, and in the midst of them, in order the bet- ter to prosecute his praiseworthy undertaking. The Mohawk Indians have preserved the communion plate given to them by Queen Anns, part of which is kept at the Mohawk village, and the. remaining portion at the Mohawk setUeraent, in the Bay of Quinte. Mr. Nelles regret- ted that his interpreter, whom he described as an intelligent man, was absent, having accompanied a deputation of the Indians to Toronto, Ut present a loyal and congratulatory address to Sir F. B..4leacli ■ A- ■ ■..■;• Before our Father's throne *fx«?»*ft iiiv.?* f*it^.fti4>'f We poor united prayers> Our hopes, our fears, our aims are *ne» Our comi jrts and onr cares* We share our mutual woes. Our mutual burden* bear, And often A>r each other flowe ;[. _ The sympathyzing tear. Mr. Nellea Informed me that the Church was thtnty attended that day. Usually a large numberof Pagan Indians frequent the service^ end even join in it ; but the day being so beautiful, and the river firmly iVozen, and perfectly smooth, with a coat of snow on it, many of the Indians were enjoying their diflerent games on the ice, some racings some throwing sticks at a mark, at a long distance, and other amuse- ments peculiar to the winter solstice, which is, indeed, a period of great liierriment with them. The Mohawk language is understood by the whole Six Nations ; the vernacular language ofthe tribes, peculiar to themselves. On this account, Mr. Nelles was using his utnnost endea- vors to acquire a perfect knowledge ofthe Mohawk language, and ac oommodating himself to the habits, customs, ninnners, and prejudicee ofthe people, amongst whom he is so worthily engaged. It is gratify-* ingto reRect that the British Government are, at length, quite sensible tfaet the proper method of reclaiming the Indians from their suvage ■lafe, is tbaUrecommended by St. Paul, *'being all things to all men, to win someMvChrist," and uniformly adopted by the persecuted and ealunmiated ioM of St. Ignatius, whose unwearied labors amongst the ■avage tribes, were always abundantly crowned with success : their Mieniehing exerlioira in South America in converting the Indians into ^ttiet, itKlue(ti9iM» temperate paople, cultivating the soil, ttaobiiif VUPPLSMEffrART A«COOIfT. %\nm « knowledge ofinany mechanical arts, together with a due •f religion, ^whoae ways are ways of pleasantness, and all het paths* are peace,'' eaueiiig itto slisd its benign influence over their peaceful lives, are enduring monuments of their piety and patience. Thit kappy state of things was brought abouv by their assiduity and sealr end the narration, interesting and beautiful as it is, is rendered doublgr •o, in its rebtion, by that extraordinary andeminent genius Chateau- briand, and the elegant and pious Muratori. The entertnining narra* tive impressed my mind too powerfully to allow me to pass it unna* ticQd, and induces me to observe that great pmise is due to those pasi> (orSf tike Mr. Netles, who* by unwearied asHlduity, and their own ex* emplary lives tmd conversation are so well calculated to convert ^ savage race of beings from heathenism to Christianity, and by uni* formity of conduct, continue to preserve both their religion and them- selves in the esteem of their converts. The Catholic Priesthood in tb« Lower Province, and on the Rpd River settlement, have been extreme- ly zealous and successful in their exertions amongst the Indians, aa example worthy of fmitttion, and amounting to an incontrovertible proof that nature, in her most degenerate state, may be reclaimed by fhoae who are sincere in their endeavors, gentle in their manners, anif consistent in the general tenorof their behaviour. And it is to be ex- pected, and certainly most ardently to be wished, that their naturaf fondness for war and slaughter, may in time be more effectunlly sul>> dued, their natural impetuosity softened and restrained, and their mindr- weaned from their unliappy attachment to the use of strong liquors— » eurse entailed on them by their white brethren — their indulgence i« which is frequently attended witit the most melancholy and fatal conf aequences. It is certainly singular ttitii thousands of' pounds should be annually squandered away, in a variety of prof^RBed philanthropic •chemeSf and yet in our own immediate vicinity, Pagair l«dian» ar* offering up bloody sacrifice^, on whom, by kind instruction, andf^oper means, the best impressions might be made. Ea aub ocutig pr/sita ne- gligimue : proxmorum inctirfosi, longinqua »eetamur, fnterested, pow- etfully, by my viuits, I made another in the month of September, and continued strolling about the banks of the river, until the close ofdayi, the scenery was exquisite ; as I was about leaving, the sky was al^ ready waxing grey, and a small twinkling spot of gold here and there Sroclaimed approaching darkness, ¥bat subdued landscape which the Iritiah poet so feelingly describes : *« up a pure prayer to the Great Spirit. The poor ehild of nature knew not the Ood of revelation, but the God of the universe he acknowledged in every thing around him. He beheld him in the star that sunk in beauty behind his lonely dwelling, in the sacred orb that flamed on him from his mid-day throne ; in the flower that •napped in the morning breeze, in the lofty pine that defied a thou* aand whirlwinds ; in the timid warbler that never left its native grove, in the fearless eagle whose untired pinion was wet in clouds ; in the worm that crawled at his foot, and in his own matchless form, glowing with a spark ofthat light to whose mysterions source he bent, in hum- ble though blind adoration. But all this has passed away. Across the pceancame a pilgrim bark, bearing the seeds of life and death. The former were sown for us, the latter sprang up in the path of the simple native. Two hundred years have changed the character of a great continent, and blotted for ever from its face, a whole peculiar people. Art has uaurped the bowers of nature, and the anointed children of education have been too powerful for the tribes of the ignorant. Here end there, a stricken few remain, but how unlike their bold, (untamed, untameable progenitors I the Indian ofialcon glance and lion hear- ing, the theme of the touching ballad, the hero of th t pathetic tale ia Ifone I and hie degraded offspring crawl upon the soil where he walked n miyesty, to remind us how miserable is man when the foot of the IKM>^M«fOir if op litB ^^^' As a race they have withered from the Un4<. ■'''"''TT»" sopplemihtart account. Their ar#owi tre Itroken, th«ir ipringa are dried up, their Cftbine in the duBt Their council fire haa long since gone out on the and their war cry ia fast dying to the untrodden weal. Slowly aadly they climb the distant mountains, and read their 'loom in au- tumn's setting sun, receding far behind the western cloud, which bloto it Trom our sight They are shrinking before the mighty tide which ia prt^ing them away ; they must soon hear the roar of the last wave^ whioh will settle over them for ever. Ages hence, the inquisitive^wUla nan, as he stands by some i!7rowing city, will ponder on the structm of their disturbed remains, und wonder to what manner of person tli^ belonged. They will live only in the sdngs and chronicles of cxtirminators, Let these be faithful to their rude virtues as men, a pay due tribute to their unhappy fate as people. Mr. Hodgson's ._ flections are as pathetic and beautiful, as true. After paving a viaic !• the various tribes, he saye-^**! now bade a last adieu to Indian tciiilB ry ; and as I pursued my solitary ride througUthe woods, I insensibly fell into a train of melancholy reflections on the eventful history oftm injured race. Sovereigns from time immemorial, of the interraioablc forests which overshadow this vast continent, they have gradosAf been driven, by the white usurpers of their soil, within the limits it their present precarious poaseasions. One after another of their lava ite rivers has been reluctantly abandoned, until the range of the hi IS bounded bylines prescribed by hia invader, and the independence of the warrior is no mojre. Even their present territory ia partitiiaied out in reversion ; and intersected with the prospective boundariee of surrounding parts, which appear in the maps as if Indian title wene; tually extinguished, and these anoient warriors were already drv from the land of their fathers. Of the innum«rable tribes, which a I centuries since, roamed fearless and independent, in their native Ibr- ests, how many have been swept into oblivion, and are with the gcnci^ ations before the flood. Of others, not a trace remains but in tradi- tion, or the person of some solitary wanderer, the last of his tribe, wb« ho-nrs like a ghost among the sepulchre of his fathers — a spark aliH faK...'y glimmering in the ashes of an extinguished race. . . . it is not when we press into the wars of Christians, the tomahawk or scalping knife of the Indians — it is not when, deluging his country with spirita- ous liquors in the prosecution of an unequal traffic, we send forth an a moral pestilence, before which the frail virtues of the savage fall, like the dry leaves of his forests in the blasts of autumn — it is not when thus engaged, that we either conciliate his aflfections or elevate hie moral tone. The men who fertilize the moral wilderness and evangiK ize the heathen world, are animated by a higher spirit than the desire of conquest or the lure of gain." And surely we are bound, having participated in the wrongs inflicted on this injured race, to offer the noblest compensation in our power, by diffusing the blessing of moral and religious instruction, through the instrumentality of moral and re^ ligious instructors, throughout the aborigines of the western worldk For the firet time in the annals of Upper Canada, or, indeed, I majr add, British intercourse with the Indians, the House of Assembly, which was elected in this Province in 1834, and happily for the Pro^* \\VLWt dismissed by the determined indignation of an arousedi and yoi,*. ffVPPLKMEIfTART ACCOU?fT. ••Tttd people, whose interests they had must wantonly and wtdcetffjr •kandoncd ) endeavored, amongst the many quarrels they provoked, to enlist the ludisns in dilliculties with the British irovernntent. It rs fenerally believed that the unprincipled ngitator* Mackenzie, was the principal mover in the aflfair; huw diflferent from the humane and CbriMtinn elTorts of the Hon. Mr. Dunn in behalf of the FiidiunH.— Could not this restless demagogue be contented with dit«turl»»ng, riis« fracting, cursing the farmers by nis unceasing, pernioious and pt .il'er- «ue inturference, but that he must also endeavor to divert the Indians from their progreKsive improvement, to commence hiii trnde >tnd ppr^ culation of agitation amongst them I Did he wIhI;, in tiie revel- lings of bis depraved i:nagiuation, to see the scenes of (Jeorgin and Florida enacted in Upper Canada 1 Whether itwnaso or not^ despite «f the fiendish and diabolical machinations of speculnting incendia* rien, the Indians still love and cherish the British government, and will not quickly be alienated in their attachment. The following docu- ments will show thfl exact state of the case, and I IcAve the render fomake bis own deductions. Mackenzie presented the following pe- tition of Thomas Splitlog and seven others, the head Chiefs and wac- viors of the liaron or Wyndott nations of Indians, shewing : That from time immemorial that nation has possessed without interruption a tract of land, seven miles square, lying between Sandwich and Amhersfe- bargh, and also an island called ^'Fighting Island, '* nearly opposite. That they have been unjustly deprived of the same by tbe Provincial government, which, at the instigation of George Ironside, superintend- cmt and others, conceded to the half-breed Indians who had no claim thereon, these lands belonging to *h« proper Wyndots, and which were reserved to be enjoya*! by them after the manners and customs of tbeir forenithers — that they have frequently applied to the Provincial government and were informed that these things were done with ite consent, and their remonstrances were rejected— that one Thomaa Paxton has taken possession of **Fi{^hting Island,'.' from whose en- croachments they have not bsen protected by the King, whom they were always accustomed to consider their father and protector— that these lands were ceded to them by the Chippewas and others (the lake confederacy of Indians) and reserved at the sale of lands in the Western distrirt, for their use, with a special request that they might ■ot be disturbed iu the possession of them — that in the year 1811, being aggrieved by the encroachments of the whites, they petitioned Lieut. Governor Gore, requesting his Majesty would givethem a deed in fee of their lands, who replied that this was impossible^ as the Wyndots themselves had the better title, assuring them at the same time, that the King would always protect them in tbe possession of their lands-^ that they had peaceable possession ever since, till disturbed by Iron- Otde and others of Amherstburgh— and that the government has broken through the usages and customs established by treating with the half* breeds, who only live on sufferance among them — that they are sorely grieved that the protecting hand of their great father the King has been withdrawn from them, which must have arisen, they think, from the misrepresentations of some wicked persons, seeking only to destroy l|itB<— thet meaortaliats area remnant of one of the great tribes of tbe lopfLftMcNTARt Aecoenr. WMtMH world, who fhxit fighting from time iimnemoriRt agtiiMt iW • move once more into the country of their great father, whom they al- ways loved, and that their brothers (the memorialists) are desirous of receiving them and giving them cornfields along side of them, on their little piece of ground : memorialists refer to accompanying documents in support of what they My, &c. Sec. THB ADoaBSS OP TUB HOUSE OP AS8CMBLT. To Hia Excellency Sir Francis Bond Head. K. G. H. &c. &c May it please your Excellency : — We, bis MojeAty^s dutiful and loyal subjects, the Commons of Upper Canada in Provincial Parliso ment assembled, humbly represent to your Excellency, that Thomas Spl'tiog, and others, chiefs and warriors of the Huron or Wyandott nation— have by memorial to this House, complained of George Iron- side, the Indian superintendent and others, for that they had instigated the government to divide among and concede >o the half-breed Indiana nut entitled thereto, a tract of land between Sandwich and Amherst" burgh, containing about seven miles square, although the said Wyan- dott nation had held and peaceably enjoyed the same from time imme- morial, and resided on the same, living aRer the customs and nsan« ners of their fathers. That Fighting Is'and belongs to them, but haa been kept possession of by one Thomas Paxton, who had, they aay, paid them no rent since a licence of occupation was granted him of the government. That they had made several applications to the gon vemment for its aid and protection, which bad been denied them.<-« That at the sale made to the government of the lands in the Western district, the tract now attempted to be taken from the said WyandolC Indians, was specially reserved for them, with a particular request aC the Indians of the lake confederacy, that the King and his offieei* would not disturb them in their possession of the same. Tbey also pn^ this House to enquire into the merits of their case, and if fbund desen^ iD9» ^atk the royal ioterfereBceon their behalf ao (bat HU govain- in !S SUPPLEMENTARY ACCOUNT. went here might be prevented "from wresting their little piece oif \tn^ - away from them." We humbiy request that your Excellency woulM^long the Erie Canal. If tbo rail road runs from Detroit to Bertie, it is but a coniinnation of the Eriey canal, and the Michigan trade and travel will assuredly bo canieii to it, whereas, if the trade of Michigan is carried by its natural rout» through the very centre of iho most fertile portion of the Province, it will be brought into our own majestic Lake Ontario to be carried down the St, Lawrence to the Atlantic. I have conversed with many individuals as to the route, and find all are for taking it to London — and from ihencs some to Sandwich — and some to the new Town Plot on the rivor St. C'air. Through the kindness of Major Bowen, I have been favored with some memoranda which would point out the latter route as the most desirable. First: The government is now laying out a Town Plot in the township of Moore, on the river St. Clair, the size 400 acres^ it is situated on the bend of a river, the Isle aii Cerf^, or Stag Island, protecting it from the west — and the points of the Half Moon from the north and south winds. Batteries might be erected at either end of the islaod, securing it against attack — the stream is full, the water lranspa<( rent, and ships of 300 tons can navigate past it ; it is 3 miles higher up than Palmer a County seat in Michigan, and 4 miles below Black River} 55 miles wtst of London, and 140 west of Hamilton at the Head of lake Ontario. The townships of Enniskillen and Brooke lie to the East— Sombra to the South — Sarnia, Plympton, and Warwick to the north and north east, as reference to the map will show. It is halfway between Go- derich and Detroit. The American steamers pass daily, and touch when required. The Goderich steamer does so likewise. Having notired its geographical situation, let us proceed to consider its advantages. First, by continuing the projected rail road from London to Corunna, through the townships of Adelaide, Brooke, and Enniskillen, it proceeds nearly e direct west course, and turns the beads of the Bear creek and another small rivpf and avoids the low lands in the aforementioned townships. Second, the passage by rail road being at the rate of 15 milen an hour^ from lake Ontario to river St. Clair would be 10 hours — in all l8 — which now takes, with every advantage, by way of Buffalo or Chatham, 3 and 9 half days. The river )s three fourths of a mile broad. Third, they are now constructing a rail road from Palmer west to Romeo, another ia also contemplated from Black River to St. Joseph on Grand River, com- pletely across Michigan. Corunna will be then central and answer for both. Fourth, the dangerous navigations of laket- Erie and St. Clair, would be both avoided — the debouchure of the river St. Clair into lake St. Clair, being particularly dangerous. From Palmer or Corunna, ves- sels of 300 tons may proceed to Chicago by lakes Huron and Michigan, fivoiding the aforesaid dangers, taking their produce or supplies direct te or from lake Ontario. Fifth, Corunna must be the port of Plympton, they can have none on lake Huron. Sixth, Vessels suffering from bad weather can lay up and repair ; Corunna will afford a safe harbour. ^even(hf\Oo the opposite side there are abundance of pine, and stAam saw IpiiU. Eighth, Oa ths river, floatiag saw and grist mills maybe con* SUrPLEMENTART ACCOUNT. •tructed, as on the Danube and the Rhinn. The stream runs at the rata of four and a half miles an hour. Ninth, the water on the Canadinnsido is excellent. Tenths the land on the river St. Clair has risen 400 per cent, in value in 3 years. Eleventh, abiiDdance of fine oak timber for ship building in the township of Aloore. 'Vweflth, 3 years ago there went only a few squatters on the river side in Moore, there are now 570 set* tiers. TAtrteen^/i, When a rail road connects lake Ontario and river St Clair, a peroon may breakfast in New York on Monday and sup in Mi- chigan on Wednesday. Whether the rail road is to terminate at Sand- wich or Moore — through London, and from Hamilton, it must come. The following is the account of the Trials, Convictions, and Acquit- tals in the Province of Upper Canada, for Five years, viz. from 1830 to 1835, inclusive : For murder 47 : found guilty 17, acquitted 25 ; convicted of man- elaughter 5 ; for Sodomy 2, 1 convicted, 1 acquitted ; Rape 10, 3 convicted, 7 acquitted ; Bigamy, 1 convicted ; for assault 50, 37 con- victed, 13 acquitted ; Manslaughter 20, 6 convicted, 14 acquitted ; Malicious shooting 8, 2 convicted, 6 acquitted ; Riot 9, 5 convicted, 4 acquitted ; Conspiracy 2, 1 convicted, 1 acquitted ; for Felony 53, 30 convicted, 23 acquitted ; Arson 13, 4 convicted, 9 acquitted ; For- gery 25, 8 convicted, 17 acquitted ; for Libel 2, 1 convicted, 1 acquit- ted ; Perjury 17, convicted 6, 11 acquitted ; for Larceny 266, con- victed 180, acquitted 86; Burglary 6, 4 convicted, 2 acquitted ; Theft 5, 2 convicted, 3 acquitted ; for Horse-stealing 28, 23 convicted, 5 ac- quitted : Sheep-stealing 8, 3 convicted, 5 acquitted ; Robbery 2 con- victed ; for Misdemeanor 59, 33 convicted, 26 acquitted ; Nuisance II, 6 convicted, 5 acquitted. Extortion 1 acquitted ; for enticing sol- diers to desert 5, 3 convicted, 2 acquitted. POST OFFICE, UPPER CANADA. From all the information which I have been enabled to collect rela- tive to this department, I find that there were distributed through the post office department, in 1836, the following newspapers ; Provincial papers 178,065, U. States papers and others, not provincial, 149,502. The amount paid for the transmission of the above newspapers was £1277 4s currency. The aliove statement, however, does not include those Provincial and American papers wjiich are sent ^ree, nor papers to and from Groat Britain and Ireland, by the packets, which are also sent free. There are no accounts kept, any where, of the number of either, but from a calculation made, the lowest estimate of the number of papers transmitted free by the post in Upper Canada, exceed one hundred thousand per annum. The gross amount of postage paid by the printers or proprietors of newepapers in Upper Canada, for the transmission of their papers through the post, in 1S33, was dt639 8 10. The gross amount of letter postage collecied the same year was £20,- 890 currency. This includes the British postage on letters by the go- vernment packets, which is merged in the general postage collected in the Province and of which no separate account has ever been kept. The number of letters is not known by the post office accounts, but nuppoBtng thai the average postage a&iounts to 7d, c'y. each, and SVPPLl*!IEI • 6 ... Deaths - - - - 39 ' (Out of which 7 died within the first 48 hours, of typhus fever,) , Remaining on the books, - - 60 During that year no less than 1800 outpatients received medical aid at the daily dispensary of the Institution, from 9 o'clock till 12. TRUSTEES. The Hon. the Chief Justice, . , , The Hon. and Yen. the Archdeacon of York, The Hon. John H. Dunn, The Hon. G. H. Markland, The Hon. W. Allen, Christopher Widmer, Esq. PHYSICIANS AND SURGEONS. C. Widmer, Esq. John King, M. 1). John Rolph, Esq. Robert Hornby, M. D. Apothecary, F. Wilkinson — Steward, Geo. Sinclair. LAKE ONTARIO— WINDSOR BAY. The Province must direct its attention to the navigation of this noble lake, and it is well worthy of mature consideration whether it would lot be advisable to open up that fine extent of fertile country stretching between the beautiful navigable waters of Sturgeon Lake and Windsor Bay, Whitby. The waters of the Scugog Lake and River, pass in their course from Sturgeon lake, bounding on the south west angle of Fenelon, through the whole of Ops, bordering on Manvers, inter- SUPPLEMBNTARt ACCOUrvT^ Mcling Cartwright, and part of Reach, extending its tributary rami^ catione into Brockt Mariposa, and Whitby. The harbour of Windaot could be connected witli this navigation, by a rail road, at the distance of 18 miles ; and to render the above extent of navigation immediately available, there requires but one dam and lock below the present sit« of Purdy's mill. The benefit such a measure would confer on this section of the country would be immense, and as tine and fertile a country as can be met with, is that, bordering on the tributaries of the Scugog river and lake, the Non-can and cross creeks. In page 167, speaking of the extent of water communication we should have •aid eighty instead of eight. LOWER CANADA. The matchless letters of Camillus, and the great exertions of the British population in Lower Canada, must have attracted, in no pow- erful a degree, the attention of the people to the state, condition, and resources of that Province. The Eastern townships, numbering SO* and forming altogether five millions of acres of land, are equal in soil, fertility, salubrity, climate, timber, water, and accessible communica- tion to any portion of Canada, and I trust from the character of its set- tlers, will tend iftore effectually to consolidate that bond of affection and mutual interest which ought to be felt, by every lover ot Great Britain in both the Canadas. The following very graphic and interesting ac- count of the formation of anew town in one of these ^jwnships, I have extracted from that respectable paper the Sherbrooke Farmer's Ad- vocate. VICTORIA* This name has been given to a spot selected by the British Ameri- can Land Company for the site of a town, situate within the township ofLingwick, near the town line of Bury, bordering the falls of Salmon river, and distant about 36 miles from Sherbrooke. The road to the settlement has been cut out the whole distance, so as to be passable ibr men on horseback. Some parts have been completed, but the whole line cannot be finished before next season. When completed it will undoubtedly be the finest road in the lownship, probably in Canada. The country through which it passes is principally covered with fine hard^ timber, with a wonderfully small proportion of inferior swampy land. Clearings of one or two acres occasionally meet the view, at short intervening distances, along the whole route, and stur- dy English settlers are to be seen, with their wives and children all bu- sily engaged in the several occupations of burning, logging, &c. Such as have arrived early in the season have tolerable crops of pota- toes, turnips, and some garden vegetables. Passing by one of those clearings, we suddenly and unexpectedly came upon two very fine well formed young women, cutting down some gigantic trees in a grove of maple, weilding their axes with a grace and agility which might have done credit to any axe-man in the country. We were un- perceived by them, and had ample time to contemplate the graceful ■lii u SUPPLEKEMTARY ACCOUNT. Iliovements of the two wood nymphs — having at length nccoBted ihetii^ Ibey dropped their axes in delightful confusion at being caught engag- ed in so maidenly an occupation, showed two beautiful faces covered with blushes and smiles, which commanded so much adviiration, that were it not for the circumstance of our being already bound in matri- mony fast as a church, it might have ended there is no knowing where. They were undoubtedly two very pretty girls, and it is under- stood, that the sudden discovery of two such. unsoplMsticated speci- mens of native beauty in the forest acting in unconsciousness of being . seen and admired, is infinitely more interesting than discovering the ■ame in satin petticoats, all bedecked and bedizened for public exhibi- tion. The men at work on the roads are divided into gangs of twenty or forty each. We had the pleasure of spending a night m one of the camps. The buildings consisted 'of two shanties covered with bark sloping to the ground, open above along the centre to let the smoke escape. Immediately below this opening an enormous fire made of logs piled upon one anothor, kept blazing all night, and tiearly roasted us alive — fortunately had the left flank ofa line of thirty-six bedfellows; kept awake halfthe night by discordant noises proceeding from a va- riety of those most unmusical instruments, noses ; in the morning breakfasted on bread, beef-steaks, and tea without milk or sugar* boiled to the bitterness of bark in a six gallon pot, and served out in saucepans — discovered the cook to be a man of intelligence by the quality of his beef-steaks — on enquiry found that he had doubled Cape Horn, weathered the Cape of Good Hope, made sugar with the niggers, escorted three hundred rogues to Botany Bay, was nearly eaten at tlie Nicobars, and trimmed the nabob of Arcot's whiskers. HAMILTON. It is with extreme reluctance I send this boQk to the public without its frontispiece — the view of A. N. McNab^s elegant mansion, seen from Burlington Bay. When I obtain it from New York, I will be careful to send one for every copy, but to delay the issue of the work, any longer, would prevent its circulation in Great Britain, until the middle of next year, as I should be precluded from availing myself of the navigation of ^Me St. Lawrence Until next May, and the high duty, payable on books transmitted to Great Britain, through New York, renders the conveyance by that route, a serious obstacle. Error — Page 212, West Fl&mboroS cultivated acres 12,572, uncul' tivated acres 51,061. •/■>■: . K ERRATA. Page 10 — 8th line from bottom, for these read the. Page 1 1 — 15th line from bottom, for benificient read beneficent. Page 14 — 1st line, for indiigaenaable read indefensible. Page 30 — 10th line from top, for rarefication read rarefaction. Page 109 — 6th line from top, for similar read larger. Page 125— Max. and Min. observations of temperature at Ancasten for 7 A. M. and 3 P. M. read 9 A. M. and 9 P. M. Page 152— Bathurst District, reverse the cultivated and uncultivated acres. Page 186— 12th line from top, for dia- read diagutt, f, j^ j Page 235*l8t line, for Oz read Bull, M ik, :ul-