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 1 2 3 
 
 4 5 O 
 
THE LITTLE 
 RED BOOK 
 
 A GUIDE AN OUTLINE OF 
 THE RAPIDS AND CANALS 
 OF THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER 
 
 Written for 
 
 71ie Canada Steamship Lines Ltd. 
 By R. V. Fortune 
 
AT PRESCOTT, in the province of Ontario, 
 you board the Rapids steamer for your 
 thrilling and spectacular trip down the 
 rapids of the St. Lawrence river to the city 
 of Montreal, in the province of Quebec. 
 
 The rapids run affords a distinct change from the 
 calm and peace of the Thousand Island district. 
 The rapids boat is much smaller on account of having 
 to run the rapids and also on account of having to 
 return to Prescott by way of the canals. 
 
 PRESCOTT 
 
 The town of Prescott is one of the most beautiful 
 towns in the valley of 'he St. Lawrence. It has been 
 called after General Prescott, — a leader of the 
 Canadian forces in the American Revolution. 
 Among the principal objects of interest in the town 
 are Fort Wellington, named in honor of the Iron 
 Duke, and the tomb of Barbara Heck, the founder 
 of Methodism in Canada. The fort (built up on a 
 knoll after the style of a blockhouse or a trading 
 post) can be clearly seen from the river. The popu- 
 lation of the town of Prescott is about 5,000, and it 
 is situated 52 miles from the capital of Canada, 
 Ottawa. Railway connections between Prescott and 
 Ottawa are made over the Canadian Pacific Railway. 
 
 Ogdensburg, New York, is on the opposite side of 
 the river from Prescott. 
 
 About one mile below Prescott on the left hand 
 side of the boat is Windmill Point with its famous 
 
lighthouse. Here the Canadian Government has 
 reconstructed from the old windmill one of the 
 largest and best lighthouses in the Dominion of 
 Canada. 
 
 ' It was at this place that in November, 1837, a 
 number of Irish patriots under the leadership of a 
 Polish general established their headquarters, but 
 were driven back by the Canadian Militia with a 
 great loss of life. 
 
 About four miles below Prescott on the American 
 side is Point Arie, where the State of New York has 
 erected an Insane Asylum costing almost $3,000,000, 
 the grounds comprising 1,000 acres. On the left 
 of the steamer and opposite the Asylum, is Chimney 
 Island, and on this Island one can see the remains 
 of an old French fortification. 
 
 GALLOPS RAPIDS 
 
 Six miles below Prescott we shoot the Gallops 
 Rapids. This rapid is the first on the St. Lawrence 
 river and is very small. One hardly notices the 
 difference as the boat speeds along at full steam. 
 The village alongside of these rapids is Cardinal, 
 the canal covering the rapids is the Edwardsburg 
 Canal and here the Dominion Government has 
 expended some $2,500,000 in enlarging the canal and 
 removing obstructions from the river channel. 
 
 The next town is Iroquois, situated at the foot of 
 the Iroquois Canal. 
 
 MORRISBURG AND THE RAPIDS DU PLAT 
 
 Still proceeding down the river, we pass on the 
 American side the town of Waddington and oppo- 
 
site it is Ogden's Island. On the Canadian side is 
 Morrisburg, with a population of about three 
 thousand. At this place we have the Morrisburg 
 canal and the second small rapid, the Rapid du 
 Plat, and over this rapid also the steamer passes at 
 full speed. 
 
 A short distance below Morrisburg, on the Can- 
 adian side of the river, is Chrysler's Farm, where a 
 battle was fought between the American and Can- 
 adian forces in 1813. 
 
 The river now runs along smoothly, but the observ- 
 ant tourist may notice that the v/ater is beginning 
 to run at a faster rate. Then, as we pass Faran's 
 Point with its short canal and Dicken's landing 
 with its quaint English houses, the increasing swift- 
 ness of the water soon reveals the fact that we are 
 about to "shoot" the first of those remarkable and 
 celebrated rapids of the St. Lawrence river. The 
 thought itself is almost enough of a thrill, but we 
 soon have more than the thought because we see 
 ahead of us the wild white caps of the famous and 
 justly famous Long Sault Rapids. 
 
 THE CORNWALL CANAL 
 
 But before we enter these rapids we notice on our 
 left the lighthouse and entrance to the Cornwall 
 Canal. This Canal is nine miles long, with six locks 
 and an elevation capacity of 45 feet, which is the 
 drop of the Long Sault Rapids. As we are leaving 
 this hghthouse and canal entrance we shou*a remem- 
 ber that as we shoot down the river and over the 
 Long Sault we have dropped 45 feet when we reach 
 the town of Cornwall. 
 
) 
 
 THE LONG SAULT RAPIDS 
 
 However, time for thought and remembrances 
 disappear as we draw close to the foamy crests of the 
 turbulent waters. Soon one hears the engine shut 
 off and then one realizes that we are almost on the 
 Long Sault, and the boat is but drifting — being 
 carried along ever faster than before by the force 
 of the current and then we take our first dip into 
 the famous Long Sault. 
 
 The surging waters present the angry appearance 
 of the ocean in a storm, but unlike the ordinary 
 pitching and tossing of the sea this is continuous 
 going down hill, always dropping, dropping, drop- 
 ping. 
 
 If we could but understand what the wild waves 
 were saying it would be ''look out below," because 
 here and there as the vessel swings about under the 
 careful and experienced hand of her pilot there are 
 rocks almost to the surface o' '^ ^ v- ter, and should 
 the boat lose the course bu. • second it would 
 assuredly crash upon one of t -lerged dangers 
 
 and pile up upon the rocks. 
 
 The rapids proper are scarce.^ ile and a half 
 
 in length, but there is a continuance of compara- 
 tively swift water for several miles further. The 
 usual passage for sfeamers is on the south side of 
 the island which divides the rapids. The chaimel 
 is very narrow, and the velocity is such that if a 
 raft were placed in the current it would drift nine 
 miles in fortv minutes. 
 
 The first passage mad'^ by a steamer down these 
 
 rapids was made about 1844 and then under the 
 
 guidance of a celebrated Indian Chief named 
 
 Teronhiahere. 
 
 6 
 
In some places in this Long Sault Rapids we are 
 going at the rate of 27 miles per hour, and if the 
 passenger will glance at the trees on the land he ndu 
 easily see the rate at which the boat is drifting. 
 
 The sensation of shooting the Long Sault can 
 hardly be described. It must be felt to be under- 
 8< Dod. 
 
 All boats coming up the river towards Prescott 
 must come up through the Cornwall Canal, as no 
 power could go against the current of the Long Sault. 
 
 All boats coming down the river, with the excep- 
 tion of the Rapids steamers, go down that canal as 
 boats must be speciaUy constructed, specially 
 equipped and specially manned in order to make 
 the trip in safevy. 
 
 CORNWALL 
 
 Outside the city of Cornwall we pass under the 
 bridge of the Ottawa and New York Railway, a 
 subsidiary of the New .York (Central Railway. 
 
 Both sides of the river are now in the Dominion 
 of Canada and in a few minutes we tie up at the one 
 and only scheduled stop of the trip, — Cornwall, 
 Ontario. 
 
 This city has a population of. about ten thousand 
 people, and, using the powers derived from the 
 Long Sault Rapids, it has developed into a notable 
 manufacturing centre. Chief among the city's 
 industries are cotton, paper and woollen goods. 
 
 Here, at Cornwall, another experienced pilot 
 boards the vessel, and he usually guides the boat 
 down the remaining five ipids. There are now on 
 the boat four men of long experience and iron nerve, 
 
 6 
 
each one able to take ns the rest of tht wav down 
 through the rapids to Montreal. 
 
 Just outside of Cornwall we pass the border uie 
 from Eastern Ontario into the province of Quebec. 
 Near the same point also is the boundary line which 
 divides the United States from the Dominion of 
 Canada and the rest of our trip down the St. Law- 
 rence river is with Canadian territory on both sides 
 of the river, although in the distance the Adirondack 
 mountains of Nov; York State can be seen outlined 
 against the horizon. 
 
 ST. REGIS 
 
 The Indian re ^rvation of St. Regis is on the right 
 hand side about four miles below Cornwall. One 
 can observe from the deck the old c' ruo*\ of St. 
 Francis, built about the year 1700. The large bell 
 in this church is associated with a deed of genuine 
 Indian revenge. On its way from France to America 
 it was captured from the French boat by an English 
 cruiser and taken to Salem, Massachusetts where it 
 was sold to the church at Deerfield, Mass. The 
 Indians, hearing of the destination of their bell, set 
 out for Deerfield, attacked the town, killed forty- 
 seven of the inhabitants and secured one hundred 
 and twenty captives, among them the pastor and 
 his family. The bell was then taken down and 
 conveyed to St. Regis, where it now hangs. 
 
 About eight miles east of Cornwall is the pleasant 
 little village of Summerstown, while just ofip the 
 shore lies Stanley Island, a popular summer resort, 
 with good fishing, boating and swimming. 
 
A little farther along the river we pass by an- 
 other island with its summer cottages. This is 
 Hamilton's Island. Opposite this island is Fort 
 Covii;igton and Salmon River. 
 
 LAKE ST. FRANCIS 
 
 Both sides of the river now gradually open into 
 the wide expanse of Lake St. Francis, prettily diver- 
 sified with the hght woods and the typical long, 
 narrow farms of French Canada. 
 
 On the right one cannot help noticing and remark- 
 ing the church of St. Anicet, while on the left is the 
 village of Lancaster. 
 
 Lake St. Francis is about five miles wide and 
 twenty-five miles in length. 
 
 A few miles before we reach the end of the lake 
 we can see in the distance the Grand Trunk Pacific 
 Railway bridge of Coteau, almost one and a half 
 miles in length. 
 
 Drawing nearer to the bridge, we notice on the 
 left the village of Coteau Landing, and over on the 
 righ+. the town of Valleyfield. 
 
 SOULANGES CANAL 
 Here, at Coteau, is the entrance of the Soulanges 
 Canal, — the longest canal on the Sc. Lawrence river. 
 This canal covers the drop of the next four rapids 
 which we will shoot in rapid succession. The canal 
 is a masterpiece of the engiiieering profession; being 
 fifteen miles in length and with an elevation or a 
 drop of eighty-five feet. 
 
 COTEAU RAPIDS 
 We pass quickly underneath the bridge,7^and 
 emerging from a maze of islands and turns we 
 
 8 
 
''shoot" the fast running but small Coteau Rapids, 
 and as soon as we are through them we catch a 
 glimpse of the French village of Coteau du Lac as 
 the vessel is carried forward by the water. 
 
 In the expedition of General Amherst in 1759 a 
 detachment of three hundred men were lost in the 
 rapids near this place. 
 
 CEDAR RAPIDS 
 
 About twenty minutes after the Coteau Rapids 
 we shoot the Cedar Rapids. At the right of the 
 rapids is the village of St. Timothee, while on the 
 left is the village of Cedars. At first sight these 
 rapids seem only ordinary, but it is in this rapid 
 that there is the fastest current of the St. Lawrence 
 river and it is also in this rapid at the right of the 
 ship that there is the largest visible drop in the St. 
 Lawrence river. The Cedar Rapids gives a peculiar 
 rolling motion to the vessel experienced in no other 
 rapid, the boat pitching from side to side and drop- 
 ping with a definite settling motion. 
 
 As we leave the rapids we see on the left the newlv 
 constructed power plant of the Cedar Electric 
 Power Co. At the time of writing this plant has an 
 output of two hundred and fifty thousand horse 
 power, but when it has been completed will have a 
 total output of three hundred thousand horse power. 
 
 Alongside of this mammoth building is one of the 
 plants of the Montreal Light Heat & Power Co., 
 while on the opposite side of the river is a plant of 
 the Montreal Tramways Co. 
 
 SPLIT ROCK RAPIDS 
 
 The next rapid which we arrive at in a short time 
 is the Split Rock Rapids, one which is very difficult 
 
 9 
 
to navigate on account of the formation of the rocks 
 in the rapids. A geological formation runs directly 
 across the river and it would be impossible to descend 
 these rapids were it not for a fault or slipt in the 
 formation which takes a part of the rocky ledge 
 from the centre of the ridge and moves it down the 
 river, thus causing the split or gate through which 
 the vessel passes after having cut diagonally across 
 the upper part of the formation, and then cutting 
 diagonally across again in order to descend these 
 rapids in safety. These rapids seem almost impos- 
 sible to * 'shoot" without almost certain danger, but 
 the skilled hand of the pilot brings us through 
 another treacherous opening and we glide out into 
 the open water again for a couple of minutes before 
 we start down the next rapids of this series. 
 
 CASCADE RAPIDS 
 
 It is the Cascades, so called on account of its 
 numerous white crests foaming on top of darkish 
 waters, through which the vessel passes, and, as 
 the shortness of the waves has an effective pitching, 
 these cascades are enjoyable to run. 
 
 After passing the Cascades we have been through 
 the Soulanges Series and the foot of the Soulanges 
 Canal can be seen to the left of the steamer. Since 
 we left the entrance to the canal we have dropped 
 eighty-five feet in a distance of fifteen miles. 
 
 LAKE ST. LOUIS 
 
 From the Cascade Rapids the St. Lawrence river 
 widens out to form Lake St. Louis, and along the 
 
 10 
 

 shores of this beautiful body of water are many 
 summer resorts and summer camps. At tha begin- 
 ning of the lake one can easily see the two colors of 
 water as yet unmixed by color blending. The dark, 
 niuddy water is from the Ottawa river which enters 
 the St. Lawrence here at the left of the vessel. 
 
 Here too we can see Mount Royal, the extinct 
 volcano which forms the island of Montreal. We are 
 as yet too far away to distinguish any points of 
 interest in the city, but we can see the mountain 
 which forms the centre of the island city of Montreal. 
 
 LACHINE 
 
 We cross Lake St. Louis in about one hour and 
 fifteen minutes and at the foot of the lake the river 
 divides two very interesting towns. The town on 
 the left is Lachine, so called by Lasalle, a French 
 explorer. In his search for China he had crossed 
 the Atlantic and, not knowing that America lay 
 between him and his goal, believed that he had 
 China when he sailed up the St. Lawrence. He 
 called the place La Chine, which is the French word 
 for China. 
 
 CAUGHNAWAGA 
 
 Opposite Lachine is the Indian reservation of 
 Caughnawaga, a quaint Indian village deriving its 
 name from Indian converts who were called ^ Spraying 
 InJians," or ^ 'Caughnawaga. '' There are about four 
 thousand inhabitants in the village, and they are 
 almost all Iroquois, once forming part of the ferocious 
 tribe of the Six Nations. One can see that there is 
 no definite street order in the town and that the 
 
 11 
 
buildings are scattered around as if shuffled and 
 dealt like a deck of cards. 
 
 Connecting Caughnawaga and Lachine is the 
 Lachine Bridge, owned by the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway. This bridge was recently double tracked 
 to accommodate the increased traffic. Approaching 
 the bridge one would almost believe that the bridge 
 must move in some way to allow the boat to glide 
 under it without hitting the funnel or masts. 
 
 LACHINE RAPIDS 
 
 A few minutes after we have passed under the 
 bridge we begin to feel again the boat picking up 
 speed, and knowing that we are but eight miles 
 from the city of Montreal we guess correctly that 
 the famous Lachine Rapids are just ahead. ^ And 
 we are right, for in a few minutes the white caps 
 and waves seem to rush in upon the ship as if to 
 stop it and hold it back from further progress, and 
 we are now in the Lachine rapids. 
 
 To attempt to describe it would be folly and 
 wasted time. We shoot by submerged rocks, 
 through the foam and spray of the myriads of 
 breakers, past whirlpools and visible boulders, now 
 turning quickly and veering sharply in order to 
 escape destruction on one of the many dangers 
 where death seems to lurk. 
 
 But once again the man at the wheel and the 
 men on the bridge know the channel, and we glide 
 out of the mass of spray and turbulence into the 
 clear waters of the river and, turning to look back 
 on the Lachine we can see the water beating against 
 the craigs, and knowing that danger is passed we 
 can think again that mind is greater than matter. 
 
 12 
 
Below Lachine we can see the towns of Laprairie 
 and Longueuil and behind them the mountains of 
 Montarville, Rougemont, Shejfford and Belceil. 
 
 MONTREAL 
 
 To the left we can see the city of Montreal with 
 its high buildings, spires and domes. 
 
 Tiie silver dome clearly visible is the dome of St. 
 James Cathedral, — an exact copy of St. Peter's 
 Cathedral in. Rome and built on one third scale. 
 Away to the right are the twin spires of Notre Dame 
 Cathedral, a replica of Notre Dame Cathedral in 
 Paris, France. 
 
 GHding along swiftly we go under the Victoria 
 Jubilee bridge, which connects the Island city of 
 Montreal with the mainland of the province of 
 Quebec. On the right of the bridge is the town of 
 St. Lambert. This bridge is over a mile in length. 
 
 From here we take a wide sweep in front of the 
 city and we can see from the boat the ocean going 
 vessels in port, the great warehouses and grain 
 elevators, the immense harbor of Montreal, the 
 market and church of Bonsecours; to all of which 
 the business and residential district and the grandeur 
 of the mountain form a perfect background. 
 
 We round the end of St. Helen's Island and tie 
 up at Victoria Pier, Montreal, Quebec, the end of 
 the rapids division. 
 
 Those who are going on to Quebec ciiy or the 
 Saguenay river will find their boats sailing from 
 this pier while those who are remaining in Montreal 
 will find ample accommodation waiting to take them 
 to the various places to which they wish to be 
 transferred. 
 
 13 
 
An Outline of the Trip up 
 
 the River from 
 
 Montreal to Prescott 
 
 o*^ 
 
 We leave the city of Montreal from Victoria Pier 
 and as we glide away from the dock and into the 
 Lachine canal we pass the different piers at which 
 the ocean boats are moored while staying in 
 Montreal. 
 
 LACHINE CANAL 
 
 We then enter the first canal of the trip, the 
 Lachine canal, which was built to overcome the 
 current and fall of the Lachine Rapids, which are to 
 the left of the canal but not visible from the boat. 
 
 The Lachine canal is eight and one half miles long, 
 and is constructed with five locks, which are 
 operated by electric power. As we go along the 
 canal we can notice on both sides the various 
 manufacturing houses and factories which hne the 
 canal. 
 
 When we have arrived at the town of Lachine, 
 the end of the canal, we are in a water level which is 
 45 feet higher than that at Victoria Pier, Montreal. 
 
 F 
 
 The town of Lachine is on the right of the canal, 
 while on the left is the Indian reservation of Caugh- 
 nawaga. 
 
 14 
 
LAKE ST. LOUIS 
 
 From Lachine and the canal we enter Lake St. 
 I ouis with its many beautiful villages and numerous 
 summer places. Large numbers of residents of the 
 city of Montreal make the shores of Lake St. Louis 
 their home during the warm summer months. 
 
 SOULANGES CANAL 
 
 Crossing Lake St. Louis, we enter the Soulanges 
 Canal, the longest on the St. Lawrence river. This 
 canal is fifteen miles in length, extending from the 
 village of Cascade Point at the eastern terminal to 
 Coteau Landing at the western end. 
 
 The first three elevations of the canal are close 
 together at the village of Cascade Point. Here the 
 elevation of the three locks combined is about 65 
 feet, while the whole elevation of the Soulanges 
 canal is 85 feet. 
 
 As the steamer sails swiftly along in the canal 
 one cannot help but notice the farms of the French 
 habitant. These farms are a reHc of the old Seigneu- 
 rial system and are built facing the water with a 
 narrow frontage and extending back from the water 
 to a much greater length. . 
 
 The next lock we enter is the lock at Cedars. 
 On the left the Cedar rapids can be clearly seen, and 
 beside them the large power house of "^the Cedar 
 Electric Company, which has an output of 250,000 
 horse power. The two smaller power plants at its 
 side are the plants of the Montreal Light, Heat & 
 Power Company and of the Montreal Street Railway 
 Company. 
 
 To the left of the canal and on the river is the 
 village of Cedars. 
 
 15 
 
^ Almost at the end of the canal we pass under the 
 Canadian National Railway Bridge and then enter 
 the final lock of the Soulanges series of Coteau. The 
 town on the right is Coteau Landing, and as we 
 enter Lake St. Francis we should remember that in 
 going through this last canal we have risen in water 
 elevation another 85 feet, which now makes the 
 water level 130 feet higher than at Victoria Pier in 
 Montreal. 
 
 LAKE ST. FRANCIS AND CORNWALL 
 
 CANAL 
 
 Having crossed Lake St. Francis, the next canal 
 is that at Cornwall, a manufacturing city of about 
 ten thousand people. We are now in the province 
 of Ontario, the boundary line between the Province 
 of Quebec and Ontario; being a few miles east of 
 Cornwall. This canal at Cornwall is nine miles 
 long, and the elevation of 45 feet is accomplished 
 in six locks. 
 
 To the left of the canal is the Long Sault Rapids, 
 but as this part of the trip is usually made after 
 midnight one does not get an opportunity to see 
 them. 
 
 PRESCOTT 
 
 Leaving the Cornwall canal, we again enter the 
 St. Lawrence river and during the remaining portion 
 of the trip to Prescott we go past the canals at 
 Faran's Point, Morrisburg and Iroquois, but do not 
 use them as we are able to go up the current without 
 their aid. We then go through the lift lock at 
 Cardinal and continue along the river to Prescott, 
 Ontario, where we change boats for the Thousand 
 Island route to Rochester and Toronto. 
 
 16