IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 us Li 2.0 14 m 1-25 1 1.4 1.6 ■• 6" ► V] c^ /a ^ ^J "^^' > A '^ •> /A 'ri '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 172-4503 € (meaning "CON- TINUED "), or the symbol V (meaning "END "), whichever applies. empreinte. Un des symboies suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ^- signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". lire by errata led to snt jne pelLre, apon d 32X Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: t 2 t Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent %tre film^s d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de I'oingle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche & droite, et de h;->ui en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 4 5 6 i' m ■A EC < PI o a s 'a a O if )■ T H i-: < i; i; i se ?K Hrll V>.;K;'\S :;|(JP . /-A c?/7'V^ MJNV SEAS, hS /.V J/^/AVr LANDS -■^' W. J. J. SPKY, R.N. "^. •■;■*:« ntoji.,^ •< y/.uKH, k.k. r.ug. •^'/r./ .♦/■•/■ t.\'l> I! I nSTKATrCNS. fOliONTO : ^. :.. J< OKI) BROTH KRS. P U P.L ISHERS, «n :■. K.VTVn, , -fi;?'.. , ,« ■■*' >"«" """ '- Office „, tte Mtai,ter „; 1^7,"."' " "™" ^■'"™""«' ■" & G d PBEFACE -•o*- The important objects for which H.M.S. Challenger was placed at the disposal of a scientific staff under the direction of Professor Sir Charles Wyville Tliomson, F.R.S., the g.atifying results obtained by the full investigation of the bed of the ocean, and the vast amount of information gathered by visits to distant lands very rarely explored, render the cruise of the Challenger highly interesting and instructive to the British public. Under these circumstances, I have been induced by numerous friends to revise my daily journals, and publish in a concise and readable form a continuous narrative of this celebrated voyage. In this volume I shall not in any way interfere with the scientific results, beyond simply namino- them in a cursory and general way, leaving to a 2 PEE FACE. Professor Thomson the task of dealing with these subjects, and the application of the information obtained to the furtherance of physical knowledge. The description of places visited is given in the way that I have viewed them, and under the im- pressions that filled jay inind at the time ; but as the geographical aspects of foreign scenes must be similar by whomsoever observed, it is scarcely possible to avoid occasionally using descriptions almost identical with those published on the subject by previous visitors. The chief interest connected with this narrative will be the vast extent traversed in the pursuit of knowledge, which admits of the combination in this volume of the general outline of the manners and customs of nations and tribes rarely visited, and descriptions of scenery under every condition of temperature, from the fiery Tropics to the ice-bound Antarctic regions : thus combining in the work a fund of information that has been brought together through special aid of the Government, granted to the Committee of the Royal Society, and now dedi- cated to the public use. 1 now respectfully present the narrative of tho PLEFACE. cruise of the Challenger to my readers, in the hope that, while affording information and instruction, it will prove of sufficient interest to reward its perusal with some pleasantly passed hours. WILLIAM J. J. fiPBY. Dbvonpobt, December 1&70. CONTENTS. -•O*" PAm INTEODUCTION CHAPTER I. ENGLAND TO LISBON AND GIBRALTAR. H.M.S. Challenger commissiGued at Sheerness — Objects of the voyage — Equipment and fittings — Leave Sheemess — The stormy passage — Arrive at Portsmouth — Commencement of the voyage— Leaving England — Weather in the Channel — Across the Bay of Biscay — First sounding and dredging — The results— Land in sight— Enter the Tagus — Anchor off the city of Lisbon — Visit the shore — Sight-seeing — Church at Belem — Churches, gardens, and palaces — Early history of Portugal — Visit of King Luiz to the Challenger— heiB.yQ Lisbon — Dredging off Cape St. Vincent — First trial with the trawl — Venus's flower-baskets — Description — Trawling near Gibraltar— Obtain specimens of the Umbellularia— Their description — Pass Cape Trafalgar— Eock of Gibraltar in sight — Arrive, and secure alongside the mole— Sights iu Gibraltar — Galleries through the rocks — Stalactite caves- Gibraltar as a military fortress — Ceremony of opening and closing the gates — The naval establishment — The town — Its churches— Garrison library — The Alameda— Neutral Ground — Campa and San Boque CHAPTER n. GIBRALTAR TO MADEIRA AND TENERIFFE (OANART ISLANDS). Leave Gibraltar— Daily sounding and trawling— Sight Porto Santo — Its discovery and early history— Arrive and anchor in Funchal Bay, Madeira— Its early history— First imprea- i! ' VIU CONTENTS. sions — The gardens, buildings, conveyances, dress— Leave Madeira — Pass the Descitas — Capo Anaga, Teneriflfe, sighted — The Peak — Anchor off Santa Cruz — The buildings and streets — Scenery in the country — Ascent of the Peak — Cruising amongst the group — Sounding and dredging— Ball at the English Consulate — Naval incidents connected with Teneriffe 26 CFIAPTEE III. TENERIFFE (OANARY ISLANDS) TO ST. THOMAS (WEST INDIES). Leaving Teneriflfe — Sight of the Peak — Commence section across the Atlantic — Daily soundings and trawlings — The results — Contiguration of the lx)ttom — In tlie Tropics — The officers of the feiiip — Life on board — Our daily doings — Description of the mode of sounding — The ai^paratus and appliances used — Taking serial temperatures — Dredging and trawling— Island of Sombrero in sight — Arrive and anchor at St. Thomas . . 36 CHAPTEE IV. 8T. THOMAS (west INDIES) TO BERMUDA AND HALIFAX (nOVA SCOTIA), AND BACK TO BERMUDA. At St. Thomas — The town of Charlotte Amalia — Importance of the island— English vessel in distress — Tow her into port — Leave St. Thomas — The first death on board — Soundings — Burial at sea — Bermuda in sight — Sounding round the reefs — St. George's — The Narroi/s — Pretty scenery — Reach the anchorage in Grassy Bay — The naval yard — Historical sketch of the Bermudas — Geolo^^ieal and botanical researches — Leave Bermuda — Soundings — The Gulf Stream — Long Island to Nova Scotia — In Halifax Harbour — The city and its suburbs — Gold and coal mines — Halifax to Bermuda— In the Camber — The sand glacier — The caves . 69 CHAPTER V. BBRMTTDi TO THE AZORES, CAPE DE VERDE, ST. PAUL'S ROCKS, FERNANDO NOUONHA, BAHIA, TRISTAN D'ACUNHA, AND THE OAPK OF GOOD HOPE. Leave Bermuda — Sounding round the reefs — Commence another section across the Atlantic to the Azores — Anchor off Horta, CONTENTS. IX FAOI 25 86 Fayal — Fayal to St. Michael's — The gardens — Foliiige — Scenery — Lake of the Seven Cities — Public buildings and streets — Leave the Azores — Arrive at Madeira — Short stay there in coiisequence of epidemic — Section commenced across the Atlantic to the Coast of Africa — Palma, one of the Canary Islands, in sight — Sounding and dredging — Cape de Verde Islands in sight — Anchor off Porto Grande — Survey the anchorage — The town and adjacent scenery — Leave for Santiago — Anchor off Porto Praya — The town — Its natives — Dredging for pink coral — Proceed towards the African coast — Course altered for St. Paul's Rocks — The rocks in sight — Made fast by a hawser — Crossing the Line — The old customs — The southern constellations — Arrive at Fernando Noronha — Disappointment at not being able to land for collecting specimens — Sounding and dredging — Capo Antonio in sight — Anchor off Bahia — The city — Excursions in the country — Brazilian scenery — Foliage and vegetable products — Case of yellow fever — Leave Bahia — Section commenced to Cape of Good Hope — Island of Trinidad — Passage across the South Atlantic — The drift nets — Incidents of the voyage — Sea-birds — The soundings — Pick up the westerlies — Tristan d'Acunha in sight — The settlement of Edinburgh — Squally weather — Visit the Inaccessible Island — The Brothers Stoltenhoff: their story — Table Mountain, Cape of Good Hope, in sight —Anchor in Simon's Bay — Placed in quarantine .... PAOK 78 59 :!R8, lAPB CHAPTER VL Simon's bay (cape of good hope) to marion akd crozet islands, TO KEUGUELEN LAND AND THE HEARD ISI aNDS, THE ANTARCTIC REGIONS, AND TO MELBOURNE (AUSTRALIA). Simon's Town — Visit to Cape Town— Discovery of diamonds — From Simon's Bay to Table Bay, round the Cape of Storms — Anchor in Table Bay — The ChallerKjer's ball — Return ball by the residents — Return to Simon's Bay — Leave the Cape — The Agulhas current— The "roaring forties "—Christmas Day 1873— Sighb and land on Marion Island— Vast numl)ers of albatross and other sea-birds— Prince Edward's Island— Sight the Crozet Islands — Passage to Kcrguelon Land —Arrival at and description of the island — Leave Christmas Harbour — The scenery — Anchor in Betsy Cove — From thence to Royal Sound — Three Island Bay — Greenland Harbour — Cascade CONTENTS. FaOB Reach — Hopeful Bay — Ehodes Harbour The seal fisheries — Return to Christmas Harbour — Penguin rookeries — The Arch Rock — Leaving Kerguelen for the south— The Heard Islands — Description of the land — Leave the Heard Islands — The first Antarctic iceberg — In the icy regions — The icebergs and pack-ice— Birds— Cross the Antarctic Circle — Early explorers of these inhospitable regions — Wilkes' Termination Land — The Aurora Australis — An Antarctic gale — Enter the pack — No signs of land — Leave the pack — Dredging — A second gale — Shape our course for Australia — Trawling — The weather — The last iceberg — Passage to Australia — Land in sight — Arrive and anchor in Hobson's Bay, Victoria Ill 1^ CHAPTER VII. MELBOURNE (VICTOBIA) TO 8VDNEY (nEW SOUTH WALES) AND WEtlNGTON (new ZEALAND). Melbourne— The city and suburbs — Visit to Ballarat— The city — Its gold mines — Melbourne to Sydney — First sight of Sydney Heads — Arrive at Sydi. y, New South Wales — Anchor in Farm Cove — Sydney Harbour — Picnic on Mount Victoria — Zigzag on the Great Western Railway — The Blue Mountains, and Valley of the Nepean — The city — Paramatta River — Rhodes — The dredging picnic — Entertainments during our stay — Early history of the colony — Leave Sydney — The stormy weather — Return and anchor in Watson's Bay — Sydney to New Zealand — Daily soundings — Rough weather — Anchor for shelter in Port Hardy and Queen Charlotte Sound — Man washed overboard and drowned— Sight Palliser Heads — Anchor off Wellington— Port Nicholson. 147 CHArTER VIII. WELLINGTON (nEW ZEALAND) TO FRIENDLY AND FIJI ISI-AND8, TO THE NEW HEBRIDES GROUP, AND TO SOMERSET, OAPE YORK (QUEENS- LAND, AUSTRALIA). At Wellington— Results of the soundings — Formation of the bottom — Description of the city — Australia and New Zealand — Leave Wellington — Squally weather— Sight the Kermadec Islands— Sounding and trawling — The Friendly Islands — Eoa — Tongatabu — Anchor off Nukalofa— Tonga— The village: its natives — Tapa : its manufacture — Captain Croker's attack on Bea, and the result— Foliage and scenery— Leave Tonga- CONTENTS. XI PAGE tabu— Passage to Fiji— Off Matuki— Anchor in Ngola Bay, Kandavu— Kandavu to Levuka— Anchor off Levuka— Return to Kandavu — Natives of the New Hebrides on board for passage to Api — Survey Ngola Bay — The scenery — Tattooing — Meke Meke— Leave Fiji for the New Hebrides — Off Api — The natives land — The landing, and what was seen— Sounding and dredging — On our way again— In the Coral Sea — Off the Louisiade Archipelago — Raine Island — The Barrier Reefs — Anchor off Bird Island — Arrive at Somerset, Cape York, Queensland 178 CHAPTER IX. ^ CAPE YORK (AUSTRALIA) TO THE ARRU AND KH ISLANDS, TO BANDA, AMBOYNA, AND TERNATE (MOLUCCA ISLANDS), The settlement at Cape York — The aboriginal Australians — Foliage and birds— Leave Somerset — Pass through Endeavour Straits — Off Hammond Island — Ceremonies relating to the dead — Australian graves— Off Booby Island — The post-office — Passage to the Arru Islands — Anchor off Dobbo — Visit of the Dutch officials — The settlement — Its natives — Forest scenery — Birds of paradise — Leave Dobbo— Passage to the Kii Islands — Anchor off Kii Doulan — The forests — Beautiful birds and insects — Boat-building — The village and natives — Leave the Kii Islands — Pretty scenery — The Molucca Islands — Anchor off Banda — Gunong Api— Banda Neira — Nutmeg plantation— Animals and birds found — Banda to Amboyna — At Amboyna — The city — Get a supply of coal— Chinese burial- places — The harbour — Arrival of the mail steamer — Leave Amboyna— Cross the Equator (second time) — Pass the islands of Bachian and Tawali — Tidore and Ternate in sight— The charming scenery — Anchor off Ternate — The village — Club- house—Sultan's palace — Mohammedan mosque — Visit the spice plantations — Trees and fruits — Ball at Government House 202 CHAPTER X. TERNATE (MOLUCCA ISLANDS) TO SAMBOANQA, ILOILO, AND MANILLA (PHILIPPINE islands), AND TO HONG KONG (CHINA). Leave Ternate — Mindanao, Philippine Islands, in sight — Anchor off Samboanga— The village — Hospitality of the Spanish officials Ill |! I ■III- CONTENTS. » Manilla HarboJ™The^^l°~>^^ '»' L»^o«-Ch« « Hong Kong Harbour! Th/'^'r^™ "-d anchor Uieatres-Their temples „.■!,, ""^-^'^ '•<»M™te, eho" Captain Nares leayes for Fn., f'"-''''^'' "-o Wsten- Enghehmail . . . . "^ '^ '^aving-Arrivai of the CHAPTER XI. PASS 228 HONG KONG (ohina) TO MANILLA .. licave Honff Koni^ p„ ^^^^ guinea). 1- .into^ MS-rS^^^'^^JI'-^ht a dere,iet-To, »Xrc™rn China_Paf„™° (th,rdtin,e)-Coursoa»iSfor'^«;»«-C«'» the EqnZ -The scenery and proei»l nf ^""'^a-land in sight Hmnboldt Bay, New S^ "' ^^P'o^tion-Anchor*" 316 OHAPTEE Xa. ""-aJAiUt nil I» Humb ,dt _ """ ™ ™'°°'"'' ("Pr/ "'""" "^*»»') thel:^ts-i7tfmpS laSr 'f P'*^™ "PWa^nce of nabv^-Their vil^ "n f t' '"'"'-''"'""' "f""" New Gniaea-Admiralty Island' ,? ^*™ "■« <=oast of «-y„fthegr„„p_.earthfAlSr.L:^dsl'^^t; CONTENTS. Xlll PAOI shaped for the Ladrone Islands — Deepest sounding for the cruise — Unsuccessful in reaching either Ladrone or Caroline Islands — The Japan Islands in sight — Enter the Bay of Yedo —Beautiful scenes— Anchor off Yokohama 261 CHAPTER XIIL JAPAN. Yokohama — The cemetery — Walks in the environs — Visit Tokio (or Yedo), the eastern capital — Railway from Yokohama to Yedo — Jinirikisha — Sojourn at Shiba — The suburbs of Yedo — The streets and people — ^" Curio" shops — Lacquer-ware — Street scenes — The great temple of Asakusa — Japanese wrestlers — Leave Yokohama for Yokosuka— The Imperial Arsenal — Challenger in dock — Secluded temple near Yokosuka — Will Adams and wife's tomb — Visit Kamakura — The shrine of Daibutsu, the great god of Japan — The tea-houses — Leave for Yokohama — Yokohama to Kobe — The rough passage — Take shelter in Oosima — Arrive at Kolx>— Anchor in Osaka Bay — Hiogo, Kobe, and Osaka — Railway to Osaka— Its people and streets— The great temple of Tonagee — Cruise in the inland , sea — The fine and picturesque scenery — Return to Kobe — Passage to Yokohama — Dredging picnic in Yedo Bay — The results 276 CHAPTER XIV. JAPAN TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. Leave Yokohama — Soundings of the U.S. ship Tuscarora — Our course — Passing the meridian of 180° — Two Sundays in one week — Sandwich Islands in sight — Anchor in Honolulu Harbour — The city — Its streets— Business habits — American influence — The King — Hawaiian Government — Parliament — Taxation — The Nuanu Valley — Pretty scenes — Villa and other residences — The Pali — Horsemanship — Visit to the fish- market —The natives — Public buildings — Parliament House — Hawaiian Hotel- -The churches — Queen's Hospital — Court- house — lolani Palace — Levee at the Palace — King Kalakua and suite visit the Challenger — Leave the Island of Oahu — Squally passage to Hawaii — Arrive and anchor in Hilo Bay — Volcanoes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa — The charm- ing scenery — The Raiu])ow Falls — Bathing-places — Visit to ' I'' I ; XIV CONTENTS. the crater of Kilauea — Scenes on the road — The Halfway House — Reach the crater — The first sight of the great cauldron — The Volcano Hotel — Mauna Loa — Return to Hilo . , , CHAPTER XV. SANDWICH ISLANDS TO SOCIETY ISLANDS. Leave Hawaii, Sandwich Islands — Passage to the Society Islands — Sounding and trawling — Cross the Equator (fourth time) — Death of Dr. von Willemoes-Suhm — Biographical sketch — Burial at sea— Tahiti in sight — Sounding and dredging outside the reefs — Anchor in Papeite Harbour— The town and country — Streets and natives — Ohalhnger's band on shore — Queen Pomare and suite's visit to the Challenger — Afternoon dance- Ride to Point Venus — The Broom Road— Charming scenes — Natives met on the road — Tamarind-tree at Point Venus — Waterfall — Hill fort of Fatauna —Fruits and plants— Along- side Fare Ute — Coaling from the French depot — A day outside the reefs — Dredging — The company on board — Swing ship t>AO> 304 326 CHAPTER XVI. SOCIETY ISLANDS TO JUAN FERNANDEZ AND VALPARAISO (OHITil). Leave Tahiti — Parting scenes — Westerly winds— Sounding and trawling — Juan Fernandez in sight — Picturesque scenery- Robinson Crusoe — Anchor in Cumlierland Bay — The tablet at Crusoe's look-out— The settlement, past and present — Leave Juan Fernandez — The run to Valparaiso — Arrival, and anchor off the city — The city and harbour— Swinging ship for mag- netic corrections 336 CHAPTER XVII. VALPARAISO, THROUGH THE STRAITS OP MAGELLAN. Leave Valparaiso — Sight Juan Fernandez— Sounding and dredging — Strong head-winds — Fall in with the westerlies — Sight Cape Callages and Cape Tres Montes— Anchor in Port Otway — The Entrance Islands— Last day of 1875 — Leave Port Otway — Passing through the Messier Channel — Anchor in Hale Cove — The scenery — Foliage— Leave Hale Cove— Con- m CONTENTS. XV tintiance of passage through the Messier Channel — Stop and trawl off Middle Island — The pretty scenery — Anchor in Gray Harbour— The excursions— Grass and trees on fire — The grand effect at night — Leave Gray Harl)0ur — Messier Channel and Indian Reach — The English Narrows — Mid-Channel Island— The f ne scenery — Dredging off Sauraaurez Island — Anchor in lort Grappler — The derelict Karnack — Weather during our stay — Leave Port Grappler — Pass through Wide Channel — Dredging, &c. — Anchor in Tom Bay— The excur- sionists — Squally weather— Drag our anchors — Leave Tom Bay — Conception Channel — Proposed survey in the Trinidad Channel frustrated t'^rough the weather — Pass through the Conception Channel — Soundings, &c., in the Innocent Channel — The fine scenery — Anchor in Puerto Bueno Bay — Pretty scenes — The weather — Leaving Puerto Bueno Bay — The scenery and weather in passing through Sarmieuto Channel— Sounding and dredging — The Zach Peninsula— Anchor in Isthmus Bay — Leave Isthmus Bay — Passing through Mayne Channel and Smyth's Channel— The fine scenery— Enter the Straits of Magellan — Cape Pillar in sight — Enter the picturesque port of Churruca- The Glaciers — Leave Port Churruca — Pass through Crooked and English Peaches — Off Fortescue Bay— The Fuegians — Off Cape Froward — Anchor in Port Famine — The old Spanish settle- ment in 1581 — The Chilian settlement of 1843— Leave Port Famine and arrive at Sandy Point— The Chilian settlement- Coal mines and gold workings — Leave Sandy Point and reach the anchorage off Elizabeth Island — Exploring parties — Finding fossil bones — Leave Elizabeth Island— Passing through the Second and First Narrows— Off Gregory Bay — Pass the Meridian of Cape Horn — Again in the Atlantic — Pass Cape Virgin— Sounding and trawUug 346 CHAPTER XVIII. CAPE VIRGIN TO FALKLAND ISLANDS AND MONTE VIDEO. Our first haul in the Atlantic — The Jason Islands — Eddystone Rock — Cape Pembroke, Falkland Islands, in sight — Enter Yo^i William — Anchor off Stanley — The settlement — Climate — Death of an able seaman by drowning — Leave for Por^j Louis — Anchor in Berkley Bay — Funeral of our late s^upmate — Return to Stanley — The stream of stones— Leaving the XVI CONTENTS. PAOB Falklands — Stormy weather — Sounding and trawling — Sight the land — Oflf Lolx)s Island— Pass Maldonado Point — Steam- ing up the Rio de la Plata— Anchor off Monte Video— The city and suburbs 864 CHAPTER XIX. MONTK VIDEO TO ASCENSION AND THE CAPE DB VERDE ISLANDS. Leave Monte Video— Swinging ship — Sounding and dredging in the River La Plata— A Pampara off the coast— Enter the cold current — Its course — Completion of the voyage round the -» world — What has been accomplished — Course shaped for Ascension — South-east trades — Arrive at Ascension — The garrison— George Town — Scenery — The Green Mountain — Ascension turtle — Leave Ascension — Sounding — Cross the Equator for the sixth time — The oppressive region of equa- torial calms— Steaming through the Tropics — Sight the Cape de Verde Islands— Arrive at Santiago— Anchor off Porto Praya — Leave for St. Vincent — Anchor in Porto Grande — Strong trade-winds 372 CHAPTER XX. HOMEWARD BOUND. * Leave St. Vincent — Head-winds and disagreeable weather — Sight the coast of Spain — Anchor in Vigo Bay— The city— Channel fleet — Leave for England — Off Cape Finisterre — Favourable run across the Bay of Biscay — The English Channel — The coast of England — Anchor at Spithead (Portsmouth) — Arrive at Sheerness— Retrospect — Pay off at Chatham— Parting — At home— The end 381 APPENDIX 885 pAom 864 V 1^. .V .>!! ♦ • ILLUSTRATIONS. me. I I 9 r e le i- )e to 372 it \e [e le It 381 885 :^ View op St. Thomas, West Indies Captain George S. Nares, R.N., F.R.S, . . The City of Lisbon, from the Tagus . Chemical Laboratory on Board the Challenqf.r Naturalists' Work-room on Board the Challenger Sounding and Dredging Apparatus The King of Portugal on Board the Challenger Plaza ConstituckSn, Santa Cruz, Teneriffe Sounding Accumulator '* Hydra" Sounding Machine "Baillie" Sounding Machine Valve Sounding Lead Slip Water Bottle " Buchanan's" Deep sea Water Bottle " Miller-Casella" Deep-Sea Thermometer Cup-lead Deep-Sea Dreihse Dredging Accumulator .... Camber and Floating Dock, Bermuda . Oceanic Sections (St. Thomas to Bermuda— Bermuda TO New York — Halifax to Bermuda) Natives of Santiago, Cape de Verde Islands St. Paul's Rocks, North Atlantic St. Paul's Rocks, from the East . Peak op Fernando Noronha, South Atlantic View op Tristan d'Acunha .... Table Mountain, Cape of Good Hope . To face PAotl. Frontispiece. Title- piuje 7 9 10 12 10 25 43 44 45 46 47 49 50 53 54 55 59 Toface 68 To face 78 85 86 88 110 111 ZVllJ ILLUSTHATIONS. PAQB Christmas Harbour, Eerodelen Land . . . To face 124 The Challenger amongst the Iok in the Antarotio I Eegions ^. . 148 Dredging on the Paramatta River, Sydney . , . 147 Sydney, from Pyrmont, Darling Harbour . , To/ace 160 Natives of Tongatabu, Friendly Islands .... 178 Street Architecture, Dobbo. Arru Islands .... 202 Natives of the Philippine Islands 228 Indian Village on the Banks of the River Pasio, I „ _ Manilla f. . ^4b The Landing-place on Wild Island (Admiralty I „„, Islands) ^ . . 2bl Village in Humboldt Bay, New Guinea . . . To/ace 262 Village in Wild Island, Nares Harbour, Admiralty { „„„ Islands f »' ^^^ Ornaments of Dress, and Weapons, used by the ] Natives of New Guinea and the Admiralty > „ 271 Islands j Tomb of Will Adams and his Wife, near Yoko- ) (».„ suKA, Japan I' * Women on Horseback, Honolulu, Sandwich Islands . . 304 Native Bamboo House, Tahiti, Society Islands . . . 326 Tamarind Tree at Point '^enus, Tahiti, Society \ rw, j, ooo , \Toface 338 Islands \ •' Customs Guard House, Valparaiso, Chili . ... 336 The Challenger in Cumberland Bay, Juan Fer- ) _ , „„» > To face 339 NANDEZ \ •' Mountains and Glaciers in Magellan Straits . . . 346 Cape Fboward, Straits of Magellan 364 The City of Monte Video, looking towards the I o«o Habboub I * * . 146 147 »ce 160 . 178 . 202 . 228 246 261 271 276 304 326 m^ fsms^ti TOROIM I O-BELFORD BROTHEKS ISO 140 160 180 16 140 120 -^^^ z-'' .J ^.-*^^^- i^ ^• \ . 4-)-- "^■ y/ ,y :y bniafHiqn.9 /7 ,-•,■•'■ New """■"..'"■ C H A RT Showing the track of H. M. S, CHALLENGER in iHl'l :y l-.'i H: (>. "^ I ■leo ox lao tin I(iO IRO l«M1 Cii 40 w ^OIMI 0-BELFORO BROTHEHS fi ' TORONTO-BELj «20 r I ■enaion >■< llei-,,,, m M) CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. INTRODU( TIOX. Not many years ago, in fact witliiri the memory of the present generation, our l INTRODUCTION. rw.v south and west coast of Ireland, where a deptli of 2400 fathoms was reached with successful results ; and the third part extended over some portion of the survey of the previous year (between the coast of Scotland and the Faroe Islands). On the termination of this voyage (taking into account the time occupied and the extent of the investigations), the cruise of the Porcupine was considered to have done more to advance our knowledge of the pliysical condition of the ocean than had been achieved by any former expedition that ever left our shores. In 1870 the Porcupine was again engaged in the service of the Council of the Royal Society, and pro- ceeded at first in a south-westerly direction towards the farthest point to which the survey extended the year before, and afterwards to the coast of Portugal, and to Gibraltar, where a vast quantity of interesting and important data was obtained. In addition to the sounding and dredging, thermometric observa- tions were constantly taken, proving even more successful than those obtained during the previous voyages. The results showed unsuspected variations in the deep-sea temperature, the existence of a general oceanic circulation, and the presence of life at the greatest depths. The scientific and practical importance of the facts revealed by these short and imperfect inquiries was such as to render their con- tinuance a matter of national concern : so much so that the Council of the Royal Society brought before B 2 i I i I CBUISE OF H.M.S. CEALLENGEB. the Government a project for extended investigation, which was eventually approved of, and a committee appointed to prepare the plans of operation. It was suggested that a vessel should be fitted out for a three or four years' cruise, during which time sounding, dredging, thermometric observation, and cnemical examination of sea-water should be carried on continuously, with a view to a more perfect knowledge of the physical and biological conditions of the great ocean basins, of the direction and velocity of the great drifts and currents, of the faunae of the deep water, and of the zoology and botany of those portions of the globe which are at present comparatively unknown. H.M.S. Challenger, a spar-decked corvette of 2000 tons displacement and 400 horse-power, was se- lected to carry out these recommendations ; and the necessary alterations to fit her for the service on which she was to be employed were made in the dockyard at Sheerness. With the exception of two 64-pounders, all the guns on the main deck were re- moved, so as to obtain the required accommodation. In addition to cabins for the Captain, Commander, and Director of the Scientific Staff, there were spacious compartments for surveying operations and analysing purposes, a laboratory for the chemist, and a studio for the photographer, all fitted with every appliance which skill and science could suggest. On the upper deck stood an 18-horse double-cylinder |{ INTEODUCTION. id y engine, with shafting and drums for heaving in the dr'^dging and sounding-Hnes, extending entirely across the ship ; and on the after-part of the deck, be- sides the usual standard and other compasses, was the Fox dipping-circle, with which it was intended to make an extensive daily series of magnetic observations. From the Hydrographic Department at the Ad- miralty a code of instructions was issued, regulating the daily routine to be carried out whenever the weather and other circumstances permitted. The C/>allenger, after visiting Lisbon, G-ibraltar, and Madeira, was to proceed across the Atlantic, through the trade-wind region, to the Virgin Islands ; thence to Bermuda, onward to the coast of North America ; and eastward again to the Azores, and thence to the Canaries, Cape de Verde, and to the equatorial regions — which were to be thoroughly investigated — westward to St. Paul's Rocks, Fernando de No- ronha, and to the coast of Brazil. After leaving Bahia, it was desirable that the island of Trinidad, Martin Vaz, and Tristan d'Acunha should be visited on the passage across the South Atlantic to the Cape of Good Hope, which it was expected would be reached at the close of 1873. From the Cape it was proposed to examine the small groups of islands of Marion and Crozet, and to visit Kerguelen Land; from which the expedition was directed to proceed as far south as safety would permit in the neighbourhood of the Antarctic ice- 6 CBTJISE OF H.MS. CHALLENGER. barrier, and after a short survey to sail for Melbourne, Sydney, and the ports of New Zealand. If time and other circumstances would permit, it was intended again to proceed south, for the purpose of visiting the sm.all islands of Campbell, Macquarie, Auckland, &c. ; then again north, sailing to Friendly and Fiji Islands, onward through the Coral Sea ; visiting the south coast of New Guinea, passing Torres Straits and the Arafura Sea, calling at Timor and Macassar, thence shaping our course through the Celebes and Sulu Seas to Manilla, which would probably be reached in November 1874. From Manilla the Challenger was directed to sail eastward into the Pacific, calling at those little-fre- quented regions, the Pelew Islands, New Britain, New Ireland, and the Solomon Group, en route for Japan. After leaving Japan, a course was to be taken across the Northern Pacific to Vancouver's Island, and thence southward through the eastern trough of the great ocean to Valparaiso, calling at Easter Island and ir'ala y Gomez. On leaving Valparaiso, it was proposed to return to the Atlantic through the Straits of Magellan, and by Rio Janeiro and St. Helena to England, which would probably be reached early in 1876. The globe will thus have been cir- cumnavigated, and the great oceans traversed from north to south, and from east to west. How far this programme was carried out will be seen by the following chapters. m "'^fe*.'* -3s.|-**i«*'^' -I^fev ''■^- igf 'r^^'Z- =-'-*^t^* .-^-fl -4-->^^^--~^^S^ .35-.-'"-- THE CITY OP LISBON, FROM THE TAGU8. 5t. id ir- im iis le CHAPTER I. England to Lisbon and Gibiialtar. H.M S. Chalhnrjer commissioned at Sheerness — Objects of the voyage —Equipment and fittings— Leave Sheerness— The stormy pass- age — Arrive at Portsmouth — Commencement of the voyage — Leaving England — Weather in the Channel — Across the Bay of Biscay— First sounding and dredging— The results — Land in sight — Enter the Tagus — Anchor off the city of Lisbon — Visit the shore — Sight-seeing — Church at Belem — Churches, gardens, and palaces — Early history of Portugal — Visit of King Luiz to the C7j(///e«//er— Leave Lisbon — Dredging oiT Cape St. Vincent— First trial with the trawl — Venus's flower-baskets — Description — Trawl- ing near Gibraltar — Obtain specimens of the Umbellularia — Their description — Pass Cape Trafalgar— Rock of Gibraltar in sight — Arrive, and secure alongside the mole — Sights of Gibraltar — Galleries through the rocks — Stalactite caves — Gibraltar as a military fortress — Ceremony of opening and closing the gates — The naval establishment — The town — Its churches — Garrison library — The Alameda — Neutral Ground — Campa and San Koque. H.M.S. Challenger was placed in commission at Sheerness, on the 15th November 1872, for the 8 CRUISE OF KM.S. CnALLENGER. ! i purpose of proceeding upon a voyage of scientific discovery and deep-sea exploration in the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans, descending into the Southern or Antarctic Ocean as far as the ice would permit. For some months previous to the date of her commission she had been in the hands of the dockyard officials, undergoing great changes both in equipment and internal accommodation, so as to fit her with every possible means for furthering the great work in hand. For the use of the scientific staff, of which Professor Wyville Thomson was the director, there was built an ample and compact work-room, containing numerous drawers and recep- tacles fitted with bottles and jars for holding spe- cimens of organic ocean life, and a well-stocked library of professional books in various languages. Here also were provided numerous instruments for dissection and microscopic observation, long tubes for preserving r^re specimens, harpoons, and many in- genious devices for entrapping and securing larger game than the dredge can possibly furnish. On the opposite side of the deck, and somewhat farther forward, was placed the chemical laboratory for the purpose of analysing and testing the sea- water obtained from the different depths : here were ranged retorts, stills, tubes of all sizes, hydrometers, thermometers, blow-pipes — in fact, all the usual paraphernaha found in laboratories ; chemicals in drawers, and jars in racks ; all secured from accide^^l f'JQUlPMENTS ON liOAIUh from tiie rolling of thu sliip by many ingenious devices. The photographic quarters faced the laboratory, and consisted of a dark room and studio, where were ranged the bottles, chemicals, and apparatus required by the operator. CHKMICAL LABOKATORY ON BOARD THE CIIALl ENGER. tl in A large aquarium was near at hand ; while the water bottles and sounding-machines were secured close by in racks against the ship's side. On large reels were coils of telegraph insulated wire, for the purpose of obtaining the temperature at different depths by galvanic influence. 10 CRUISE OF U.M.S, CHALLENGER. Secondly, but not less in importance to the duties of" the scientific staft", were those of the naval surveying officers, at the head of whom was Captain Gr. S. Nares, distinguished as a surveyor for years past. For tlie use of the officers under his direction there was, oppo- site the naturahsts' department, a spacious chart-room, for the purpose of laying down surveys and con- NATUUALTSTS' WORK-ROOM ON BOARD TOE CHALLENGER. structing diagrams and sections of the ocean's bed over which the vessel travelled on her vovaffe round the world. The direction of this great expedition was given into hands thoroughly w^ell qualified for the respon- sibilities imposed upon them. The naval officers were selected, for some special LEAVING ENGLAND. n ISiiiiii Jl acquirements, by the Admiralty ; and the staff of civilian naturalists and physicists wore nominated by a specially appointed committee of the Royal Society, who also furnished instructions and suggestions for the work. On the 7th December, 1872, after having swung sliip for adjustment of compasses and taking niagnetic observations, H.M.S. Challenger left Sheerness, en- countering very stormy weather on her passage to Portsmouth, which was not reached until the 11th; here a fortnight was spent completing supplies. On the 21st December all was pronounced ready, and the most important surveying ex[)edition which had ever sailed from any country left Portsmouth Harbour. As the day advanced, in our progress down Channel, we fell in with miserable, stormy weather, which was our accompaniment for some time. Thus we left our native shores. The sen- sations were indeed painful ; parting from home, with all its pleasing associations, and cherished re- collections, had a powerful influence, and gave rise to melancholy impressions, happily I'elieved by the comforting hope that we should one day be permitted to return to all those so dear to us. The weather continuing of the same wild and stormy character as we crossed the Bay of Biscay, it was not until the 30th December, nine days after leaving England, that an opportunity presented it- self of commencing scientific work ; when we were 12 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. about 40 miles west of Vigo Bay, our first sound- ing was obtained at a depth of 1125 fathoms, the Fiff.b SOUNDING AND DREDGING API \RATU8. Fig. 1. Sounding machinos. Fig. 2. Slip water-bottle. Fig. 3. Deep-sea thermometer. Fig. 4. The drodge. Fig. 6. Cup sounding lead. bottom being Globigerina ooze. After this tlie dredge was put over and lowered to the bottom, TEE FIEST SOUNDING AND DBEDGINO. 13 sound- is, the the ■om. wliere it was allowed to remain some hours, the vessel slowly drifting onward. On hauling in it was found turned upside-down, and in a lovely tangle. A second attempt was made, and a few specimens were brought nj"), one a rare fish, and some others of scientific value, enough to compensate for the disappointment of the first failure. Dredging was resumed on the 2nd Jnnuary, but with no better results, for the dredge fouled the bottom, and eventually the rope parted and some 3000 fathoms were lost. The next day we steamed in for the land, the weather being much finer as we approached the coast, passing on our way between the rocky islands of the Burlings and Cape Carvoeiro on the mnin land, sight- ing the village of Peniche, with its numerous wind- mills and small houses scattered about, which have a very pleasing efl'ect. We passed sufficiently near to get a capital view of the dark, frowning cliffs which sweep round the sandy beach, named by the residents the Praira Formosa, or Beautiful Beacli, from its shelving sands. Happily our troubles were over for a time. Clearing Cape Roca and the beautiful heights of Cintra, we steamed slowly up the Tngus ; past the straggling suburb of Lisbon, with its many-coloured villas scatt-ered over the slopes; ])ast the wonderful castle of Belem, with its elegant proportions and rich Jm H \i 14 CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER ornaments, recording the skill and the refined taste of" tlie old master masons. Ahout mid-day we moored in the Tagus, off the capital, and all who desired started for a run on shore. Some went to Cintra ; while others spent the time in seeing what was most interesting in the city and its immediate neighbourhood, or in resting after the knocking about experienced in our passage from England. There are many buildings and places of interest to be seen ; perhaps the monastery and church of Belem, of Gothic-Moresque architecture, is worth mention- ing ; no one could pass it without gazing on the beautiful porch, which is rich beyond description in carvings. Up to the very roof of the church, every pinnacle and buttress, and even the flat portions of the wall, are encrusted with ornaments. On entering, the interior is of a most charming nature. There seems no excess of ornament, and the delicate shafts of pale grey marble support a wonderfully carved and fretted Gothic roof, with all the effective airiness of Moorish architecture. Service hai)])ened to be proceeding during my visit. The church was cool and dim, and the clear sweet voices of the choristers rose and fell along the aisle, and seemed to linger in the roof among the sculptured palm-leaves. The high altar, with its lighted candles and vases of flowers, aiA the rich robes of the officiating priests, INCIDENTS IN THE HISTORY OF PORTUGAL. 15 •mmg and ort n li all 'vice The oice.s and ured •fe-r formed a warm patch of colour strongly in contrast with the cold simplicity of the grey marble. The monastery of Santa Maria — commonly called the monastery of St. Jeronimo, from its having been occu[)ied by monks of that order — is in connection with the church, and was founded with it in 14-99 by King Manoel the Fortunate, on the spot where Vasco da Gama embarked on his first eastern voyage, in connnemoration of the discovery of the Indies. Churches, gardens, and palaces are scattered about, idl well worthy of a visit; for there was a time Avhen this country was amongst the foremost in the Morld. When in the full tide of its prosperous colonisation (a.d. 1500), it was from this port that the great Yasco da Gama sailed to the Cape of Good Hope, wdiich had been previously discovered ])y Bartholomeu Dias in 1487 ; and on a second occasion, visited India. Lope Luares Francisco de Almeida followed with ships and men, conquered the Maldives, and established factories in Ceylon, Malacca, Sumatra, when the greater portion of the Eastern Archipelago was in the hands of the Portu- guese. Trading relations were opened up with Pegu and BtTmah, China and Japan, such as have only recently been granted us. In fact, no flag but theirs could fly along the whole African coast. No ship, witliout their permission, dared anchor in any harbour from Gibraltar to Abyssinia, from Ormuz to Siam. -seven years — that is, at the end of the fifty- |i t IG CliUISE OF II. M.S. CHALLENGER. reign of King John III., in 1557 — began the great change. Misgovernment, tyranny, and the work of the Jesuits and the Inquisition strangled the rising fortune of this Httle kingdom. From that day up to the present, matters have seemingly been going from bad to worse, and now, stripped of nearly all its colonies, Portugal is indeed but a wreck of what it was in the sixteenth century, when England could not have disputed the possession of an inch of ground with her for a week, England now wears the mantle Portugal in her blindness and bigotry let fall. Before we left Lisbon, his Majesty King Luiz I., who is known to be very fond of natural history, tScc, did us the honour to visit the ship, and remained on board for some considerable time, showing the greatest interest in the captures which had been made on the passage from England. Other matters were at the same time fully ex- plained by Captain Nares and Professor Thomson, sufficient to enable him to thoroughly comprehend the object of the Expedition, also showing him each department in full working order. After luncheon, and previous to his departure, a group photograph was taken of his Majesty and the officers of the Ex})edition. We were detained here until the 12th by a heavy gale from the routh-west. On its moderating, we steamed out of the Tagus, and the next day dredged in 470 fathoms oft' Setubal. The bottom was TS».- f . the great be work of the rising t day lip to going from arly all its of wliat it ^land could 1 of ground the mantle fall. Qg Luiz I., ral history, id remained powing the had been fully ex- Thomson, omprehend him each luncheon, )hotograph ers of the 2th by a oderating, next day lottom was •J ■■A =3 ■J •A I . TRA WLING NEAR GIBRALTAR. 17 of tlie ordinary grey ooze of the Atlantic. The gale had blown over, and we experienced light easterly and nortlierly winds, which enabled us to get a few suc- cessful hauls with the dredge, and soundings between the coast in the neighbourhood of Lisbon and the deep water to the south-west in the direction of Madeira : the inchne was found to slope gently down to 1475 fathoms, with a muddy bottom at 31 miles distant from the shore. When a little to the south of Cape St. Vincent, it was proposed to try the common trawl, and one with a 15-foot beam was lowered in 600 fathoms; it went down all right, and, after being towed for some hours, was drawn in just as easily as the dredge. There was no lack of living things, strange-look- ing fish with their eyes blown nearly out of their head by the expansion of the air in their air-blad- ders, while entangled amongst the meshes were mauv starfish and delicate zoophytes shining with a vivid phosphorescent light. On another occasion of using the trawl, an object of very great interest was brought to light, and aflbrded an opportunity of seeing one of those highly prized and beautiful spe- cimens of the Euplectella, or Yenus's flower-basket, alive.* It is an object most beautiful in form and structure, consisting of a slightly curved conical tube 8 or 10 inches in height, contracted beneath to a blunt point and expanded above to the width of about • Professor Thomson, in ' Good Words.* 18 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. 2 inches. The walls are of tlie most delicate tissue, recalling spun glass, and resembling finest transparent lace, or rather Shetland wool work. The lower end is surrounded by an upturned fringe of long, lustrous, glassy fibres, and the wide end, after giving off from its edge a fluted lacy frill, is closed by a delicate lid of open network. Hitherto these beautiful objects have only been obtained from the seas of the Philippine Islands, where they live buried in the mud at the depth of 100 fathoms; so those obtained then were considered a most interesting addition to the fauna of Europe. Our last cast of the trawl before reaching Gibraltar was to the depth of 2125 fathoms; the result was very satisfactory. A number of things came up — star- fish mainly, and holothurids ; but among them was one sjoecies of great interest, historical as well as zoo- logical, the clustered sea-polyp, Umhellularia Groen- landica; twelve gigantic alcyonarian polyps, each with eight long fringed arras terminating in a close cluster on a stem 3 feet high. Two specimens of this fine species were brought from the coast of Greenland early in the last century ; somehow these were lost, and for a century the animal was never seen. A year or two since two were taken by the Swedish scientific expedition, and this obtained by us must be considered as the third specimen of this rare marine animal. On the evening of the 17th January we passed THE SIGHTS OF GIBTtALTAIt, 19 ate tissue, ansparetit lower end J, lustrous, g off from icate lid of )jects have Philippine lud at the then were the fauna r Gibraltar result was up — star- them was ell as zoo- ria Groen- I, each with ose cluster f this fine reenland lese were jver seen. le Swedish us must this rare jQ passed Cape Trafalgar, and sighted the light of Tarifa. At suni'ise the next morning we were close under tlie \\Q2k of Gibraltar, rising barren grey and gloomy before us. Shortly after we came to anchor, and later in the day proceeded alongside the New Mole to complete with coal, &c. This remarkable promontory, tlie Calpe of the ancients, constituted of old, with the opposite Abyla, or Apes' Hill, the boundary of the then known world. Gibraltar was strongly fortified when it belonged to Spain, but its greatest and grandest works date from the Treaty of Utrecht (1713), when it became attached to England. Stupendous and incomparable are the works which since that period have been executed on it. Excellent and well-kept roads lead to the principal fortifications, which begiij at an elevation of only a few hundred yards above the town. The galleries hewn in the solid rock, forming a kind of casemate, have been constructed at an im- mense expense of labour and money. Their extent is over a mile in length ; and besides these galleries, passages run for miles in the interior or the Rock, affording the garrison a thoroughly protected con- nection with all points that might be at any time threatened. The grandest and most imposing of these marvel- lous excavations are the Queen's Gallery and St. c 2 20 CRUISE OF n.M.S. CnALLENGER. ¥ George's Hall, which, according to carved inscrip- tions, were mostly begun and completed between the years 1783 and 1789. At the period of our visit (1873), there were about 1800 guns mounted on the different fortifications. From the fortification a narrow and rather steep path leads to the Signal Station, at an elevation of 1300 feet above the level of the sea, where a sergeant of the Royal Artillery is placed in charge. From this point, an excellent view is obtained of the blue waters of the Mediterra- nean, and the many charming Spanish villages on the western shore of the bay. On the road down are to be seen some remarkable calcareous caves. That of St. Michael's is situated at a height of 800 feet above sea-level. It contains beautiful stalactite formations, and seems to be of con- siderable extent. It is somewhat difiicult to get about in its intricacies, but one is well repaid for the trouble. On the south-east side of the Rock is another of these cavos, dedicated to St. Martin ; it is smaller, but the stalactites are of a purer whiteness. Here we dis- covered a large accumulation of sand, recent shells, and many heaps of bones and teeth of large her- bivorous animals which possibly existed here ages ago, when Gibraltar, instead of having its present salubrious climate, was covered with icy peaks and glacial boulders. Gibraltar has little save its barracks, military store- houses, and fortifications to attract strangers ; in fact. ■ t ed in sen p- )etween the Df our visit lounted on rtification a the Signal /e the level i\ Artillery ,n excellent i Mediterra- villages on remarkable is situated It contains ) be of con- get about he trouble, er of these er, but the re we dis- ent shells, large her- here ages ts present peaks and [tary store- [8 ; in fact, THE TOWN. 21 within the gates it may be considered merely a large garrison. The opening and closing of the gates is daily canied out with a certain amount of ceremony, as if in a state of siege. Immediately after sunrise the sergeant of the guard procures the keys of tlie gates, which have been deposited at the Grovernor's the night before, wlien, accompanied by a guard with rifles and fixed bayonets, lie has the gates opened, and the drawbridge lowered; and throughout the day visitors are free to come and go ; those from Spanish possessions having a {)ass which is " vised." Every evening, soon after sunset, the ceremony is repeated. The sergeant, accompanied by his escort, cari'ying a heavy bunch of keys, mardies to the various town gates, the bridges are drawn up, the gates closed, bolted, and locked, and from this hour none can enter or leave the town, for the keys are returned to the Governor. The Naval Yard is a compact and excellent esta- blishment, where defects to the hull and machinery of vessels on this part of the station are well attended to. Stores of all descriptions are to be obtained, and large quantities of coal, some 10,000 or 15,000 tons, are usually on hand. The town, which is built on terraces on the side of the Rock, gives shelter to some 15,000 souls, consist- ing of Spaniards, English, Italians, Portuguese, Moors, Turks, Greeks, and Jews ; indeed, a mixture of races, 22 CnUISE OF lUr.S. CfTAlLENGEn. i ^ ! 1 ; M I ,! : 1 ■ if ri customs, and mfinners, such as can scarcely be found at. any otlier place in Europe. Tliere are several churches, chapels, and syna- gogues, a couple of excellent hotels, and numbers of other houses for refreshment ; shops for the sale of Moorish curiosities, Maltese lace and filigree jewel- lery, cigars and tobacco. Being a free port, tliei'e are no custom duties (except on wines and spirits), consequently most things are so cheap as to induce snuigglers to carry on an extensive trade with Spain, which persists in continuing to maintain her pro- hibitory duties on English goods. T must not omit to mention the Garrison Library, nor the kindness and cordiality of the military, who invariably, on the arrival of a man-of-war, take the earliest oppor- tunity of acquainting the officers that during their stay in port they are to consider theniJ^elves honorary members. Many a pleasant hour may be passed in this resort, with its thousands of volumes ; for, al- though amongst this vast collection there are many rare and costly works, especially of ancient Spanish literature, all the newest and most important books and magazines of the day are being constantly added^ Add to these late newspapers, periodicals, and daily telegrams from England, and some notion may be formed of the value of the Garrison Library at Gibraltar. It was founded in 1793 by Captain Drinkwater, and is one of the finest and most im- posing buildings on the Rock. !( i^ff 1 NEUTRAL GUOUND. 23 y be found and syna- umbers of :he sale of ^ree jewel- port, tliore id spirits), to induce ^^ith Spain, I her pro- ; not omit 3 kindness iriably, on iest 023por- ring their I honorary passed in ; for, al- are many b Spanish mt books ly added* md daily mav be brary at Captain ost im- There are several pleasant walks about the town, but perhaps the best is in the Alameda, or Eliott Garden, situated at the south end; it is prettily l;\id out, and in commemoration of the heroic de- fender. General p]liott (afterwards Lord Heathfield), a l)ronze bust on a column has been elected to his me- mory. Plants of different sorts — semi-tropical cacti, dwarf palm, Sj)anish broom, the yellow blossoms of which are mixed with the varied colours of fuchsia, orange, and oleanders — render it a most charming promenade, and during the fine evenings military band performances take place, when it is usually tlirongcd with visitors. Continuing our walk farther south, we passed the dockyard convict establishment, and barracks, and on the lowest terrace, which juts farthest into the s'^a, came upon the lighthouse on the celebrated Europa Point. On the north end of the Rock is the sandy neck of land called by the Spaniards " El Istnio," and by the English the "Neutral Ground." It runs between the Mediterranean and the Bay, and is about 1^ mile in length and 2700 feet in width. This plain, which is not more than 10 feet above the level of the sea, owes its origin to the formation of a dune in the rocky bed of the ocean. Strong easterly gales seem by degrees to have accumulated the sand on this shallow run of the sea, which formerly sepa- rated Gibraltar from Spain. Until quite recently the inhabitants were almost entirely dependent for I Si4 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB. lit \l ■water on that collected from rain in tanks. Artesian wells, however, have been sunk on the Neutral Ground, and now yield an extensive supply of excellent, pure water. On the east side of the Rock, near Catalan Bay, there is a sand formatioii similar to that on the Neu- tral Ground ; tMs deposit has attained the enormous height of 1000 feet. There is no road round this side, for a portion of the sand has been excavated at the point where the isthmus joins the Rock, and the water of the bay flows in so as to leave only a narrow low d vke of firm ground. The adjaceirt Spanish settlements of Campamiento and San Roque are much resorted to by excursionists ftom Gibraltar, and during the summer months are selected by numerous families for a prolonged stay. However little pleasure or interest a ride over this arid and sandy plain ii^ords, when once arrived at Campo, the rider enjoys a most charming prospect, as there is probably no other point from which the •isolated Rock appears more grand or picturesque than fom this neat little village. \k :ti Artesian e Neutral supply of balan Bay, 1 the Neu- enormous round this excavated Rock, and ave only a npamiento cursionists lonths are ged stay. over tliis rrived at prospect, ^hich the tcturesque I'l.AZA CONSTITUCI6N, SANTA CRUZ, TENEUIFFE. CHAPTER II. Gibraltar to Madeira and Tenbkiife (Canai:/ Islands) Loavi' Gibraltar — Daily sounding and trawling— .Sight Porto Santo Its discovery and early history— Arrive and anchor in Funchal Bay, Madeira— Its early history— First impressions— The gardens buildings, conveyances, dress— Leave Madeira— Pass the Desertas —Capo Anaga— Teneriffe sighted— The Peak— Anchor off Santa Cruz — The buildings and streets— Scenery in the country— Ascent of the Peak— Cruising amongst the group— Sounding and dredging —Ball at the English Consulate— Naval incidents connected with IVneriflFe. While at Gibraltar, a new survey was made of the inner mole, the ship's chronometers rated, and mag- netic observations obtained. On 26th January we left the anchorage and proceeded round Europa Point, and as the day was well advanced, hastened on 26 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLFNGEB. so as to get through the Straits before dark. After passing the Pilhirs of Hercules, the wind freshened considerably, and the intention of making a short detour from our course so as to visit Tangiers had to be abandoned. Early next morning we pasced the, most southerly point of Europe, and as we steamed on, we gradually lost sight of tlie coast, which was l)eautifully illuminated by the rising sun, affordino- ns the last glimpse of the Old World. A westerly course was now shajied to continue the line of soundings we had dropped off Lisbon. Deep water, with a soft oozy bottom, was found to exist, favourable for telegraph cables ; and day by day, as the weather moderated, so the dredging and trawling became more successful, and a number of strange new forms of animal life were found ; some wondrous formation of sea-urchins and lily-stars, some clustered sea-polyp of singular beauty and of groat scientific interest. Thus a week |)assed, and, on the 2nd F*!)- ruary, Porto Santo was sighted — a banen, rocky spot, but, as its name (Holy Port) indicates, viewed In- its first tempest-tossed discoverers with thankful hearts, when in their attempt to circumnavigate Africa they were driven out to sea and on the point of perishing. The island, when first discovered (1410), was, according to some accounts, inhabited, according to others, desolate ; however, the voyagers were so de- lighted with the discovery that it was resolved to d'»- "& -n I - • 1 1 B. STGHT PORTO SANTO. 27 iirk. After d freshened ng a short ^iers had to paseed the, we steamed , which was affording us continue the ibon. Deep tid to exist, f by day, as nd trawh'ni^ 5trang'e new J wondrous ae chistered it scientific e 2nd lAl.- rocky spot, .'wed l)v its :ful hearts, te A frica e point ot |iin), wns, jordino* to jre so de- lved to d 'Si- continue the search along the African coast, and to return to Portugal with their present acquisition of knowledge, and with the evidences of their discovery. Prince Henry, who had been the means of fitting out the expedition, was so delighted with the ac- count of this first discovery that he immediately planned a scheme of colonisation. Vessels left Lisbon with a number of labourers fitted out for settling, who had been persuaded to go by tempting inducements, and who carried with them a varied stock of domestic animals, and all kinds of grains and plants suitable for cultivation. This expedition was placed in charge of Bartholonieu Perestrello, who was also appointed iTovernor of the island. Thus was the father-in-law of Columbus engaged in the important pioneer work of discovery. He was the first coloniser and planter in newly discovered western ocean lands. But Perestrello failed in the cultivation, and after three years abandoned the governorship which had been vested in him. Some short time afterwards, Columbus and his wife Philippa came here to reside, in order to get a living out of the wild property bequeathed to him by his father-in-law. But he gained nothing by it, unless, perhaps, some increase of knowledge, and the birth of his son Diego in Porto Santo. We remained for a short time sounding and dredging in the vicinity of Poi.o Santo, which appears, on nearing it, hke two islands. As we 28 CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. I r l:i passed to the eastward, the southern coast pre- sented a most conspicuous and pleasing aspect, giving an air to the place which probably would hardly be borne out on landing or making a closer acquaintance. TJie next morning we were off the anchorage in the Bay of Funchal (Madeira). This island was discovered soon after Porto Santo, and from its dense forests at that time received th:' Portuguese name for wood. The lovely and fertile island had no doubt a people and name of its own, but they have passed away, and the footsteps of the civilised discoverer have obliterated every trace of the ab- origines. The first act of the adventurers was to set fire to the dense forests, which fed a conflagration that was not fairly extinguished for many years ; and when the virgin soil of the land was fully exposed, colonisation was successfully established. This colony of Madeira was the nursery of two notable things of momentous consequence in the history of all subsequently discovered and colonised western countries. One was the introduction into this island of some growing shoots of a plant obtained by Prince Henry in Sicily, but originally brought from South-Eastern Asia, and spoken of by an old Biblical prophet as the "sweet cane from a far country." Here, then, was organised and established tlie first sugar-cane plantation, and such was its success that after about five years' experience, 60,000 'fv ANCHOR IN FUNCHAL BAT. arobas of sugar were sent to Lisbon. This formed only twenty per cent, of the annual produce of the island, and was reserved as the especial revenue of the Military Order of Christ, of which Prince Henry was grand master. The other notable matter was the labour by which this sugar-cane was so abundantly produced. It was found from the first that Portuguese agriculturists would not voluntarily exile themselves, so recourse was had to the Negroes, who were imported in large numbers from Africa. These Negroes, who had, as we know, been toiling involuntarily ages upon ages in Asia, were now for the first time employed by Europeans in extracting wealth out of the new lands of the West. On the morning of February 3rd we arrived and anchored in Funchal Bay, just to tlie south of the Loo Rock, the only place of shelter at this season of the year, the open roadstead affording but little protection against the prevailing winds. The weather was fortunately very fine, and we were enabled to coal in safety. Coming in from the monotonous sea, the first impressions of Funchal are delight- ful and striking, with its luxuriant gardens smiling with gorgeous flowers, and its mountain-sides cul- tivated almost to their summits with beautiful plants. Nature exhibits herself here with such varied charms that imagination can scarcely picture a lovelier scene. 1^ 30 CBUISE OF EM.S. CIIALLENGEB. m I had a ramble on shore through some of the gardens, and although flowers were not exactly in full bloom, yet some of the most beautiful plants were in their highest development. Amongst others were seen sweet-smelling rose-trees, blooming oleanders, aloes more than 30 feet high, the shining green foliage of the camellia, chestnuts, cypress, plane-trees, Brazilian pine, laurels, myrtles, odoriferous magnolias, fuchsias, together with bananas, sugar-cane, coffee shrubs, mangroves, pomegranates, tamarinds, pine- apples, and gigantic dragon-trees. One must travel a long way indeed before meeting with prettier scenery, or a place that will surpass in fragrance and loveliness the floral beauty of this island ; and yet it is jnly within five or six days' run of our cold shores of England. The product which has made the name of Madeira famous and familiar is its wine, which is now pro- duced in great quantities ; this and the cultivation of the sugar-cane form its principal trade. The public buildings offer little to attract notice ; the churches are insignificant, and even the Cathedral, a building in the basilica style, is in no way remarkable otherwise than by the innumerable garlands and flowers, offerings of pious devotees. The charms of beautiful walks in the most en- chanting neighbourhood enhance the pleasantness of the climate of Funclial, so much resorted to by in- valids, for within a short distance of the landing-place *;('::-;/' ^i.i;i MADEIRA. 81 are splendid avenues of massive oaks and magnificent plane-trees, forming delightful promenades, with re- pose and shade, under the dense foliage of their wide-spreading branches. The existing conveyances are either horses, ham- mocks, sedan-chairs, or sledges drawn by oxen. No stranger should miss the diversion of travelling down from the Nossa Senhora de Monti, where one has a slide down the mountain-side, above 1800 feet, into the heart of the town, on small douljle-seated wooden sledges. These curious vehicles are guided in their descent with admirable skill by a couple of natives, and, notwithstanding the velocity with which they rus'i down the incline, it is very rare that even a sligi t accident is heard of. These sledging parties, which are inexpensive, constitute the favourite amuse- ment for visitors. The dress of tho natives is extremely simple, and, as the climate is subject to such slight extremes, their winter and summei attire is much the same, and generally consists of a pair of trousers of some light material, a shirt, and linen jacket ; shoes are a rare exce[)tion. As a head-dress they wear a curiously shaped small cloth cap, terminating in an erect, pointed tail from 5 to 6 Indies long. This seems to be a remnant of a turbaned head-covering worn foimerly bv the inhabitants of the African coast, with whom the early settlers carried on the slave trade. The women, like the men, are not overburdened it 'in 32 CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. if 8 ; :i with apparel, and are mostly employed as labourers in the vineyards and gardens. During the two days of our stay in Funchal the weather was very favourable for coaling, which was satisfactorily finished, and on the 5th February we proceeded out of th^ bay, and, with a favouring breeze, were soon oil" the " Desertas," a group of barren rocks about 11 miles S.E. of Madeira. These rocks appear to be only frequented by fishermen, who repair thither for collecting orchil. Tlie northernmost isle is £, high pyramidal rock, vTen taken for a sail, which it much resembles. The weather continuing very favourable, the next day we sounded in 2000 fathoms, and early the following morning the brilliant light on Cape Anaga (Teneriffe) was descried ahead. As daylight dawned, we steamed in for the land, and the high, precipitous rocks, all bleak and bare, here and there broken by deep and rugged clefts, rose in bold out- line before us. Somewhat later, as the clouds cleared, the celebrated Peak was in sight, a grand and solitary object towering in seeming desolation ; for although there is a certain amount of fertility on its sides, it was not apparent as we approached it. By 7.30 A.M. we anchored off the town of Santa Cruz, Teneriffe. After a visit from the health officers, all were free for a run on shore. There is little at Santa Cruz itself to interest a stranger ; the houses are poor structures, the streets narrow, and there are no public buildings with any pretension to taste SCENERY IN THE COUNTBT. 88 ,s labourers i'unchal the which was ebruary we ring breeze, )arreii rocks ocks appear spair tbither sle is £; higli licb it much ' favonral)le, IS, and early ht on Cape As daylight d the high, e and there in bold out- iuds cleared, grand and lation ; for tility on its ed it. By anta Cruz, officers, all is little at the houses and there on to taste or elegance. Nevertheless one is repaid for a stroll in the country, where the scenery is remarkably wild and impressive — deep ravines, from which mountainous rocks rise abruptly void of every trace of vegetation except a few cacti and other hardy plants. There is a sort of grandeur in this volcanic scenery — in the scorched craters of these enormous rocks, ribbed at the sides, rising into a variety of shapes. Now all is quiet, no traces of life, no appearance of vegetation — all is arid, dry, and parched ; while away to the southward can just be discerned a fine picture of woodland scenery, arresting the eye at once by its great contrast, and, as it were, com- pelling one to admire the extreme beauty afforded by the charming landscape. Here and there were noticed inclosures of cacti, used in rearing the cochineal, which, with the castor-oil plant, appears to be extensively produced for exportation. Our stay at first was only for two days, during which a party of naturalists landed, and made an attempt to ascend the famous Peak (12,180 feet). They had a pleasant time of it, reaching 9000 feet, where they found the temperature of the air at night intensely cold. It was too early in the season for natural history work ; still collections geological, botanical, ard zoological were made. While the naturalists were away, the vessel cruised about, and obtained a iseries of dredgings, serial o 84 CBUISE OF n.M.8. CHALLENOEB. ilii i|i if ■III 1 1.1 temperatures and soundings, between Teneriffe and Palma, and past G-omera and Hierro. Considerable deptbs were found, varying from 200 to 1700 fathoms ; as a rule discovering a dark sandy bottom and dead shells. Three days had thus been spent when we again anchored off Santa Cruz, and, as we were to leave the next day, H. B. Majesty's Consul issued in- vitations to a ball in honour of the visit of the Challenger, The weather was fine, and a large party started from the ship, arriving at the consulate in good time to find all the available Spanish beauty there to meet us. The ball was a very capital one, but the great drawback was our being unable to converse fluently with our partners when dancing. For all that the eye, whose language is so deep and expressive, the organ which the Spanish ladies culti- vate to such perfection, did all. What the heart felt and the tongue could not utter the eye interpreted. The company was not, however, entirely Spanish. The Consul's daughter, and Mrs. Grattan, the American Consul's daughter, and an English lady, married to the Minister of Marine, were there to interpret our most pressing wishes and entertain us with their company. It was not until the early hours of the following morning that the pleasant gathering broke up, and we all retraced our way to the landing-place to get on board. 1 W$ INCIDENTS CONNECTED WITH TENERIFFE. 35 The town of Santa Cruz is famous in our naval history. On the 20th April 1657, Admiral Robert Blake attacked and utterly destroyed the Spanish fleet, strongly placed under the batteries, and, aided by a sudden shift of the wind, was able to draw his ships off with comparatively little loss. It was here also that Nelson (July 24, 1797) under- took his expedition against Teneriffe, which, although unsuccessful and disastrous, displayed great heroism and bravery. The two flags captured on this oc- casion are retained in the church, and the inhabitants still bear in mind the attack and repulse relating to their capture. 2 I K ili'T 1 U{ I» ! 36 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. CHAPTER III. Tenerifpk (Canary Islands) to St. Thomas (West Indies). Leaving Teneriffe — Sight of the Peak — Commence section across the Atlantic — Daily soundings and trawlings — The results — Configu- ration of the bottom — In the Tropics — The officers of the shiii — Life on board — Our daily doings — Description of the mode of sounding— The apparatus and appliances used — Taking serial temperatures — Dredging and trawling — Island of Sombrero in sight — Arrive and anchor at St. Thomas. As the evening of the 14th of February dawned, we left the bay of Santa Cruz, dispensing with steam when well clear of the land. The bright moonlight afforded us a capital view of the Peak, which frowned down in all its grandeur, clearly and sharply defined, and its head hoary with many a winter's snow. A fine favouring breeze was with us all night : at dawn of the following morning the island of Teneriffe was looming far on the distant horizon. From the present may be said to commence the regular work of the Expedition. A section was now to be carried right across the Atlantic from Teneriffe to Sombrero (a small island forming one of a group of the Yirgin Islands), a distance of about 2700 miles ; and along this line over twenty stations were fixed on at which it was decided to make careful I ■^ * B. DAILY SOUNDINGS AND TRAWLINGS. 37 iction across the esults — Configu- rs of the shij:) — of the mode of [—Taking serial of Sombrero in dawned, we with steam it moonlight lich frowned rply defined, s snow. A ht : at dawn ?eneriffe was observations as to depth, temperature, and nature of the bottom. These stoppages were about 100 miles apart, and each day, when the weather permitted, soundings and dredgings took place. For the first 250 miles the bottom of the ocean was found to be nearly leve' at a depth of about 2000 fathoms, con- sisting, for the most part, of the Globigerina ooze of the Atlantic. On proceeding some 50 miles farther to the westward, we sounded in 1500 fathoms, identically on the top of a ridge, where, after dredging for some time, a quantity of dead, hard, white coral, together with several beautiful specimens of sponge attached to its branches, was obtained. From this position soundings made the next day showed that the bottom sank rapidly until reaching a depth of 2700 and 2950 fathoms, from the first of which a few living specimens of starfish, annelids, &c., were obtained in the dredge ; but the most re- markable fact was that with the increasing depth there was a gradual change in the character of the bottom. On the 26th February, in latitude 23° 23' north, longitude 35° 10' west, being about 1600 miles from Sombrero Island, we sounded in 3150 fathoms. This \vas the greatest depth as yet met with, the ma- terial obtained from the bottom being quite new to science. For several days after, the dredge con- tinued to bring up a dark chocolate or red clay, scarcely containing a trace of organic matter, and (il . V liti>l m im I ill M 38 CRUISE OF HM.S. CHALLENGEB, entirely devoid of animal life. This newly dis- covered formation going on at the bottom of the sea appeared, as was found afterwards, to extend for some 350 miles, when the depth decreased gradually until 2000 fathoms was obtained, and the dredge brought up animal life. The nature of the bottom changed gradually into the usual Atlantic ooze, altering again in a few days, as the depth increased to 3000 fathoms, when the mud lost all trace of carbonate of lime and resumed its red colour, which continued to withio 1.00 miles of Sombrero. The analysis of this red deposit proved it to be almost a pure clay (a silicate of alumina and the oxide of iron, with a small portion of manganese). From these results it was inferred that the circumstances which lead to the deposition of this bottom were the cause of its being so unfavourable to the develop- ment of species; and, although it has been since proved that anim;*! life is possible at all depths, it has been found, after reaching, say, 1000 fathoms, that its abundance greatly diminishes. It was in one of these dredgings we were successful in obtaining a beau- tiful blind Crustacea, perfectly transparent, which, although found at such great depths, does not appear to suffer from this peculiarity either in development 01- colour, nature having supplied claws and feelers to make up for the suppression of eyes, the sense of vision being useless in its normal state of perpetual darkness. THE OFFICERS OF THE SHIP, 89 When about two-thirde of the distance between the Canary Islands and the West Indies, we had reached the Tropics, and were fairly in the region of the trade winds, of which we took advantage ; still we occa- sionally " hove-to," for the purpose of sounding and dredging; on its conclusion again standing on our course, with a steady breeze. And now, while enjoying such pleasant weather, I take the opportunity of introducing my reader to the officers who had been appointed, and who were for the most part our companions through the various incidents of the cruise. The naval officers had been selected by the Ad- miralty, in most cases, for some special acquirement ; and the staff of civilian naturalists and physicists had been nominated by a specially appointed committee oi the Royal Society. Captain George S. Nares, F.R.8. &c., was ap- pointed in command of the Expedition. His name is familiar to the public from his surve3ring services, his standard works on seamanship, and, recently, from his having been in command of the late Arctic Expedition. From his previous scientific training, he was eminently fitted for the responsibilities im- posed upon him. His second was Commander J. F. L. P. Maclear, also well known in the scientific world, and who has seen much service in various parts of the world; on him devolved the entire charge of the magnetic department. Lieutenants Pelham Aldrich, TTf mi I ' Hi 1ii^''!j 40 CItUlSE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. A. C. Bromley, and G. R. Betliel, were each specially qualified in surveying or magnetic work. Staff Commander Tizard, a surveyor of high reputation, was in charge (under Captain Nares) of the whole of the navigating and hydrographic duties, assented by Sub-Lieutenants Havagal and Swire. The hygiene was in charge of Staff Surgeons Crosbie and G. Maclean. The engineering department, on which so much of the success of the Expedition dep3nde<^l, was under the direction of J. H. Ferguson, as chief, assisted by W. J. J. Spry, A. J. Allen, W. A. Howlett, and W. J. Abbott; and the machinery, on the return of the vessel after her long cruise, was as efficient as when she started. Paymaster R. R. Richard, Assist- ant Paymaster J. Hynes, with Sub-Lieutenants Lord George G. Campbell, A. F. Balfour, A. Channer, and H. E. Harston, were the other officers. Professor Sir Charles Wyville Thomson, F.R.S. &c., had been selected as director of the civilian scientific staff, and (as has since been proved) none could have been found better qualified to fill the important position. With the practical ex{)erience he hatL'd irire. The ms Crosbie so much of was under ief, assisted owlett, and e return of efficient as ard, Assist- lants Lord Channer, F.R.S. &c., II scientific lone could important 30 he had jlitniiuj^ he 10 subjects more ox- . Moselov, Murray, tinical de- partment. J. Y. Buchanan, M.A., acted as physicist and chemist, and J. J. Wild, as artist and secretary. This staff of specially selected scientists, each dis- tinguished for some particular attainment in his profession, completed the list. Life on board ship, the varied incidents at sea, all tend to rouse feelings and sensations which are re- served alone for those whoso business is on the great waters. To those constituting the scientific staff', the routine, especially of a man-of-war, was entirely different from th.it they had hitherto enjoyed on shore ; and unfortunately their initiation to tlie ever varying scenes was under most unfavourable cir- cumstances as regards the weather. At first the etiquette and usages of naval every-day life seemed particularly vexatious and annoying; but after a while, when fine weather again set in, and the sea- sickness had been got over, one and all perceived, to a certain extent, the necessity of order. Scrul)bino-, washing, and holystoning of the decks, cleaning brass and wood work, mustering at ([uarters and divisions, are all measures which tend to enforce the disci[iline so essential to good government. Existence in the limited sj)ace of a ship, which is frequently for months completely isolated from the outer woild, is i j)ecuj interesting to those unacquainted with the sea that I may bo permitted to n>ako a few remarks as to our dailv doings. ' '1 From the hour of four o'clock in tl le morning, as i 43 CJRUISE OF H.M.8. OHALLENOEB. i soon as the watch has been mustered, the bustle and activity begin, lasting throughout the day and even to the hour when night reminds one of sleep. Pumps are manned, and water is splashed over decks in all directions ; and, although apparently unnecessary at times, yet it is absolutely essential to the preservation of the health and comfort of those on board. By six o'clock the washing is nearly finished, when all ham- mocks are piped up and stowed ; it is now time for breakfast, consisting of cocoa and biscuit. The hands dress in the rig of the day, and all preparations are made for sounding and dredging. Sails are furled, and steam is ready, for it is essential to keep the vessel's head on to the sea during these operations. Before commencing, however, an account of how the soundings and dredgings are obtained, it might be as well to specify the sort of information that is required from us. Formerly the actual depth of the ocean only was required, and in extreme depths it was con- sidered a great feat to be able to bring up a specimen of the bottom. Our requirements and means of ob- taining information have so rapidly advanced that we not only obtain the sounding and bring up specimens, but we also ascertain the temperature of the sea at every 100 fathoms, from the surface to the bottom, and at the same time bring up samples of the deep water. It has been foimd that in all deep soundings it is absolutely necessary to use steam power. No trust- DESCRIPTION OF THE MODE OF SOUNDING. 43 worthy results can be ohtained from a ship under sail, as even in the calmest weather the heave of the sea, or the surface current, is sufficient to drift the ship in a very short time a considerable distance from the place where the lead was originally let go. It is thus impossible to obtain a perpendicular sounding ; besides the time intervals between the 100-fathom marks are upset, these time intervals being the only means of telling when the lead has reached the bottom. The first thing, therefore, to be done is to shorten and furl all sail, and brin^ the ship head to wind, regulating the speed in such a manner as to avoid forcing her through the water. The sounding apparatus is then got ready. A block is placed on the main-yard a fio. i. little outside the boom iron, and a whip rove through it to trice up the accumulator (Fig. 1). These accu- mulators are india-rubber bands, f inch in diameter and 3 feet in length. They are capable of stretching 17 feet, when they each exert a pressure of 70 lbs. Twenty pairs of these accu- mulators have been found 8uffici(3nt for most of the soundings obtained, as they are strong enough to withstand the strain of the weights on the lead line without being too strong to give readily with the motion of the ship ; their greatest use being to keep the :i it :( 44 CliUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. Fig. 2. sudden jerks of the ship's motion from bringing too great a strain on the lead line. At the bottom of the accumulators, which are kept separated from each other by being passed through holes in a circular disk of wood, a 9-inch block is hooked, and through this block the lead line is rove. The end of the line is then secured to the sounding-rod, to which is attached the number of iron weights re- quited to sink it rapidly. A sliort distance above tiie rod the slip water-bottle is fas- tened, and above that a deep-sea thermo- meter. Two descriptions of sounding-rods have been in use during the cruise. The one first employed is known as the *' Hydra " rod (Fig. 2), and consists of a brass tube 1^ inch in diameter, and 42 inches in length, having at its extreme end a but- terfly valve, and at its top a sliding rod 30 inches in length. On the upper part of this rod is a small stud, with a spring reaching to its head (when there Js no pres- sure on it) ; to this rod tlie weights are attached, and, by means of the spring, disengjiged, when at the bottom, in the following manner. The sinkers are of cast iron, and average one hun- dredweight ench. They are cylindrical inform, having a hole through \\w centre ; through this hole the rod is APPARATUS AND APPLIANCES USED. 45 placed,.!iiid as many weights are put on as are deemed necessary (generally speaking, one for every thou- sand fathoms). At the bottom of the last weight a small iron ring is rove on the rod, to which is at- tached a piece of iron wire about 12 teet pig.s. in length. The bight of the wire is passed over the i)rojection, and the rod being lifted, the weights rest on the ring, which is supported by the wire sling. The strain of the weights falls on the stud, thus pushing back the spring; and as long as the [)ressure of the weights continues on the ring at the bottom, the wire remains in its place. When the weight of the sinkers is relaxed, by their reaching and resting on the bottom, the spring pushes the wire off, and the rod, being hauled up by the line, unreeves itself from the weights, leaving them at the bottom. The second sounding-rod (Fig. 3), which was principally used, is the invention of Staff Commander Baillie, R.N., and consists, as in the *' Hydra." of a cylindrical rod, of 3 inches in diameter and some 48 inches in length. The iron sinkers are rove on the rod in a similar manner to the former, but the means of disengaging and the safety in lowering are mon; to be depended on. The bight of th(^ wire supporting the weights is placed over a sliding " kefch." On the rod reitch- ( 5 40 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CUALLENGER. Fio. 4. irig Pviid resting on the bottom, the " ketch !' drops over a conical end, and thus releases the weights, which remain at the bottom. The tube being larger than that of the " Hydra," it brings up a greater quantity of sample from the bottom. These rods are only employed when the depths are considered to be over 1500 fathom*^ ; for less depths a conical lead weight (Fig. 4) is "sed, vhich has fitted to its bottom an iroi< J >der, 3 inches in diameter, with butte valves at its base for securing samples of the v)cean bed. The line used for sounding is 1 inch in circumferenco, and is specially prepared for this service (having a breaking strain of 14 cwt.) ; it is marked at every 25 fathoms, the 25- and 75-fathom marks being white, the 50-fathom marks red, and the 100- fathom marks blue. Worsted is used to mark the line, and the number of hundreds are distinguished by tucking the. worsted under and over the strands of the line, one tuck for each hundred fathoms. This leaves the line per- fectly smooth ; no additional friction is caused in the water, nor is there any danger of the marks of the line fouling in the blocks through which it passes. The line is kept on reels (3000 fathoms on each) conveniently situated near the sounding-plat- form, from which it is led through a block to the APPARATUS AND APPLIANCES USED. 47 ch !' drops e weights, ling larger a greater the depths I fathom*^ ; ht(Fig.4) bottom an leter, with r securing 1 inch in epared for strain of 5 fathoms, ing white, the 100- is used to hundreds e worsted e tuck for line per- caused in marks of which it thorns on ding-plat- k to the n i '4 The slip water-bottle (Fig. 5) consists of a brass i 1t' 48 CRUISE OF n.M.S. CnALLENGEB. rod witli three radiating ribs to strengtlien it, and to act as a guide for a brass cylinder which incloses the water. At the bottom, and halfway down the radiating ribs, are two finely ground seatings, and the brass cylinder is so arranged that its upper and lower sur- faces fit with great accuracy on these seatings, thus inclosing anything that may happen to be between them. At the top of the rod is a brass tumbler, with a slit in it ; to this tumbler is attached a lanyard to fasten the bottle to the sounding line, and over the slit of the tumbler is placed the bight of a piece of small line (the ends of which are secured to the cylinder), by which the cylinder is kept suspended above the seating while the bottle is descending, and being in this position quite clear of the radiating ribs, it allows the water to pass freely through it. Directly the strain is released on the sounding line above, through the bottle reaching the bottom, the tumbler falls over, pushing off the line that sus- pends the cylinder, leaving it free to fall on the two seatings, and thus effectually inclosing a specimen of the bottom water. A tap is arranged at the lower end to facilitate the emptying of the bottle when again on board. Other bottles (Fig. 6), but of different construction, for cairying out similar results were employed with equal success; they consisted usually of a brass tube about 3 inches in diameter and from 2 to 3 feet in length, fitted at either end with stop-cocks connected *i I M APPARATUS AND APPLIANCES USED. 49 n it, and to- ncloses the le radiating i the brass I lower sur- itings, thus be between mbler, with I, lanyard to id over the f a piece of ired to the b suspended ending, and le radiating 'ough it. le sounding ihe bottom, [le that sus- on the two ipecimen of It the lower ottle when )nstruction, i)loyed with brass tube Ito 3 feet in connected K to each other b}^ means of a rod on whicli is a move- able float. When lowered to any desired depth, both cocks being open to allow the column of water to freely pass through, immediately the motion of Fio. 6. Kl lowering is reversed and hoisting commenced, the flat float being pressed on by the weight of water above it, shuts both cocks simultaneously, and so incloses a specimen of the water at that particular depth. % £! 60 CRUISE OF ILM.S. CHALLENGER. The thermometers (Fig. 7) used to ascertain the temperature at the bottom or at any intermediate depth are self-adjusting maximum and minimum instruments, known as Miller-Casella tliermometers, from the names of their inventor and maker, and Fio. 7. UurmonifUr Outer Caring are so constructed as to resist the pressure of the water at very considerable depths. They consist of a curved tube with a bulb at eacli end, one of which is filled with creosote, the expansion and contraction of which gives the temperature. The i APPAItATllS AND APPLIANCES USED. 51 creosote acts on a small quantity of mercury in tlie tube, which rises or falls as the creosote expands or contracts. In each of the tubes above the mercury is a small metallic index, having a hair attached to it, which, pressing against the glass tube, acts as a s])riiig, and keeps the index in its place, so as to be read off and recorded. It is evident that the bull) of the thermoincter would be exposed to the pressure of the water as well as the temperature ; to prevent this, an additional bulb is blown outside the bulb of the thermometer; this is partially filled with spirit, which is boiled before it is hermetically closed, so that it contains in addition to the spirit some spirit vapour. The pressure now acts on the outer and not on the inner bulb, whicli is therefore only affected by temperature. These thermometers are tested by hydraulic pressure, from two to three tons on the square inch, and are considered trustworthy up to 3000 fathoms. Or commencing the operations of sounding, the weighted sounding-rod, the water-bottle, and the tlierniometers are suspended to the line, and lowered from the sounding-bridge by reversing the engine for 500 fatl )ms ; the line is then let go and allowed to run out freely. As it runs out, the exact time of eacli 100-fathom mark entering the water is regis- tered and set down in its appropriate column in a 52 CltUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER book provided for that purpose. Tht;se intervals e^radually increase in duration as more line is run out, the weights having to overcome the friction of the line in the water, which becomes greater with the amount run out. The intervals are found, however, to extend in regular proportion, so that when four minutes are taken up by one interval, the weights have readied the bottom, or a depth of between 2000 or 3000 fathoms has been obtained. The time intervals having informed us that the weights are at the bottom, the line is brought to the engine, and hove in, gently at first, but faster as the quantity out decreases; care being taken to keep the ship still in her })()sition over the line, as, if allowed to fall off, the line lias not only to bear its own fric- tion, and that of the attached n)d, water-bottle, and thermometers, but also the additional friction of the drift of the ship. Eventually the rod, water-bottle, and thermometers reach the surface, the thermometer is carefully read and legistered, the water-bottle is sent down io the laboratory, where the specific gra- vity of the water is taken, and the contents of the iiounding-rod are examined to ascertain the nature of thv. bottom, after which they are dried and bottled. The soundings having been obtained, and the line hove in, the next ))roceeding is to register the tem- perature of the ocean from the surface to the bottom. This is done by attaching thermometers with equal spaces between them to the sounding-line ; a cup-lead i:i n APPARATUS AND APPfJAXCKS USED. 53 (Fig. 8) of 1 cwt. in atUiclit'd to kucj) it perj)eiulicular, and immediately above a tliermometer is placed ; tlie line is then eased out to the first 100 fathoms, wjien a second thermometer is secured, and the line low- ered to 200 fathoms, a thcrmoiueter being placed at each lOO-t'athom mark until six or eight luive been attached and the line run out to the required depth, say to 1500 fathoms ; it is now belayed and allowed to remain for a few minutes. The thermnnieters register the temperatures of the (bfTercnt Fk;. h. de[)ths at which they are submerged. The line is now hove in, and as each thermo- meter reaches the sounding-platform, it is removed, and the results are carefully read off. The tcnjpciatuie is then taken from the surface to 700 fathoms in the same man- ner. Sometimes it is considered necessjiry to obtain temperatures at every 10 fathoms from the surface to 200 fathoms, and at every 50 fathoms to 000 or 700 fathoms ; this, of course, considerably increases the time occu- [lied in obtaining these observations. When the wlnJe of the soundings and temperature observations have been obtained between any tw(» places, a plan is drawn showing the section of tlie bottom and isothermal lines at different depths. Vov the purpose of dredging in (U;o[) watm*, Thr(;e ditVe rent-sized ro|)es are supplied, of 2, 2.\, and 3 incheH in circumference, i^^ach rope is spliced ho i tl 51 CnUISE OF lUlS. CUALLKNiitnt. aH to form one continuous length of 3000 to 4000 fathoms, and is kept coiled away in a large rack, conveniently situated for u«e. Tiiese lines are marked at each 100 fathoms in the same manner as the sounding-line. Pia. 9. The dredges (Fig. 0) Hnp|)lied consisted of an iron frame, and 'vere of thnni sizi»H, 5, 4, and 3 feet in length, and from 15 to inches in width. The iron Irame, to which was secured the bag or net, is in- tended to skim tlie surface of the bottom, and the APPAIiAniS AND APPLIANCES USED. 55 Fig. 10. net to C5it(;li siiid njtain all tiuit iiii«^lit ooiiie in its way ; at the l»()tt(nn of this bag a miinbor of heinpeii s\val)s wero gciiLTally secured so as to sweep aloug and bring up small animal life, coral, sponges, clear of the platform and liarled out hv the tackle until well clear of the veHHciB side; the rope is then let go and allowed to run cut freely, the shi[) steiiininander-in- Chief, is in sight, overlooking a pretty little bay and landing-place, with the dark cedars and other trees coming close down to the water's edge ; Mount Langton, a charming spot, the residence of the Governor, has been passed, and in a short time we I ■ I r -^ II f \^' ^>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) % ^/ 4 A t/. 1.0 I.I '^^ 321 lie I 2.5 ■ 22 us US u •- ^ L£ 12.0 WUk. IL25 i 1.4 I 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation # \^^ «^ ^\ ^'- <^\'^\ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. I45S0 (716) S73-4S03 t/j A z. '^ N> o"^ % 64 CRUISE OF HJI.S. CHALLENGEB. li n anchor in Grassy Bay. Nature is looking beautiful^ and the temperature is genial and pleasant. These islands, situated as they are between the parallels of 32° and 33° north latitude, are about equally distant from the West Indies and the coast of North America, consequently the climate is a mean between the two, partaking neither of the extreme heat of the one nor the excessive cold of the other. Ajwil 5th.' — The morning was lovely, and from the anchorage the view in either direction was very beautiful : look where we would, there was a sort of prettiness. The land broken up into little knolls and cays; the sparkling sea running here and there into creeks, bays, and inlets, together with the ever-green, foliage of the cedar arid oleander, made up a very attractive landscape. Directly in front of us is the Naval Yard, with its jetties and cambers, in which were H. M. ships Royal Alfred (flying the flag of the Commander-in-Chief), Terror^ Irresistible, and several small gunboats ; later in the day the Challenger joined them, so as to facilitate refitting and com- pleting necessary stores. Close at hand is the great iron floating dock; and stretching away in either direction are extensive stores, factories, and the residences of the officials connected with the establishment. These islands are said to have been visited nearly 400 years ago by a Spaniard named Juan Bermndez, and on their discovery being reported to Spain, tliey 1 unl in- Iv mSTOniCAL SKETCH OF THE BEPiMUBAS. G5 were described as tlie most remote of all tlie islands yet found in the world. From this date many years seemed to liave elapsed without anything hein<»: re- corded al)out them, except an occasional wreck, or stories of the old buccaneers, who were said to hold court here after some of their successful raids on the Spanish Main, and tradition even now iufoinis ns of untold wealth heinfj; Inn'ied about amonG:st the islands. Perliaps the, earliest authentic account is that given by one of the crew of the St a Adventure, a vessel that was wi'ecked off the coast in KiOO. It a])pears this vessel had been fitted out in England to convey the newly jippointed Governor, Sir Thomas Gates, together with Admiral Sir Gcoi-ge Somers and other officials, to the recently formed colonv of A'irginia ; meeting with a dreadful storm, and suffer- ing great privations, their vessel was run on shore, and became a com])lete wreck. The islands were found to be uninhabited, although there were evident traces of earlier visitors, for hogs were found to be very numerous, having probably been set adrift by them. Fish and turtle were also abundant; and, finding the climate so pleasant and the land so pi-o- ductive, a year passed beft^re any attem])t was made to get away; by which time they had managed to build a small vessel, and in May KilO tliev set sail for their orii^inal destination. On reaching Virginia, they fnuu'l the colony an badly oft' for the necessaries ol' life that Sir George f i t i ::i m \m i in ':« :l h 66 CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER. Soiners and a party of volunteers started for Bermuda to obtain supplies ; and during this trip Sir George died, near the site of the present town of St. George, where there is a monument erected to his memory. From reports reaching England about this time (1012), a chartered company was formed, colonisa- tion commenced, and soon after the first party of settlers arrived, under the charge of Mr. Riehaid More as Governor.- From this date Bermuda became a British colony, with representative government and a legislative assembly. As time passed on, its importance as a naval and military station became ap[)arent, and large sums of money werti expended on fortifications and im- provements. Of Inte years the islands have become well known as the site of extensive convict establish- ments; but these, like all the other outlying penal settlements, have been broken up, and the convicts sent back to our own shores again. At the present time the imports and exports are but small ; and although possessing such a fine cli- mate, its agricultural produce is hmited ([)erliaps from a dearth of labour), for only about one-tenth of its area is cultivated, and this is only in isolated patches, where arrowroot and early crops of vegetables are produced for the American m^irkets. Here a fortnight was spent in scientific pursuits. The dredging around the reefs and the several deep- GEOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL RESEABCHES. G7 are cli- aps of ,ted )les |its. lep- sea soundings taken in their neigliboiirhood prove Bermuda to be a solitary peak, rising abruptly from a base of only 120 miles in diameter. The geological structure of tliis island Vvas most carefully studied ; results showing them to be only one kind of rock, a grey limestone, \vhif;h with but few exceptions was found to be of a soft, crumbling nature, yet capable of being employed for building purposes. Tlie botanists paid a good deal of attention to the flora of the island, for the charming walks through the avenues and forests were additional inducements to persevere in this study. We left Bermuda on the 21st April. On clearing the Narrows, soundings commenced around the reefs in over 'iOOO fathoms ; bottom of coral clay. Search was made for a reported patch, which was found on the 23rd, about 13 miles south-west of the island, with 32 fathoms of water on it, and a btttom of pebbles and stones. Here we anchored for one niglit, and the next day shaped a north-westerly course so as to carry a line of soundings to Sandy Hook. The weather on the whole was as favourable as could havo been expected at this season of the year. For a few days it was squally, when in the vicinity of the Gulf Stream, but when fairly across this belt, fine agreeable weather again greeted us. The soundings obtained showed the bottom to be fairly level, at an average depth of 2G00 fathoms to F 2 I > 68 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. witliin 200 miles of Sandy Hook, when it shallo /ed to 1700 fathoms. The soundings taken in v^ossing and near the Gulf Stream were of very great interest. On each side ^ depths were found to be respectively 2400 and 1700 fathoms, grey ooze bottom; while in the stream itself the line ran out over 2600 fathoms without reaching the bottom. This sounding, how- ever, was considered doubtful, there being a strong wind and current at the time dragging the line out of the perpendicular. The stream was found to be about 60 miles broad, which was easily detected by the 8° difference of temperature on entering and leaving. This influential current, little as it may be appre- ciated in a general way, is of the greatest importance to those countries whose waters are influenced by its flow. It takes its rise in the Gulf of Mexico, though it might be regarded as a continuation of the equatorial current which flows from the western coast of Africa across the Atlantic, absorbing the sun's rays as i1 advances, and storing away the warmth for future use. It then passes into the Mexican Gulf, where its waters are raised to the high temperature of 86*, and then sweeps through the pass of Florida, skirting the sliores of Nortli America, until it takes that re- m;irkable curve off Nova Scotia and Newfoundland which thiows its waters across the Atlantic, towards the coast of Europe. '1 'A O < I '!■ ir 1 y I >■ ■ ■ !■: ii II ill \ k — Ai • of th( vel r hea losi Itt for Lab the If and Had and own been \V coTirj little sevei avei'{ chief was 90 ni on Le tlie ^ THE GULF STREAM. Gl) One branch curves downward, and flits past tlie Azores, tlie other ghdes northward in the direction of the British Isles, and the Polar Sea. Its length, if reckoned from its Mexican iiead to the Azores, is upwards of 3000 miles, and its average velocity is about 40 miles a day. The great function of this stream is that of a bearer of heat, setting out at a temperature of 80°, losing not more than from 10° to 15*^ in its progress. It thus reaches our coast and ameliorates the climate, for in point of latitude England corresponds with Labrador. All are familiar with the fact that in the latter regions the winters are exceedingly severe and protracted, and the vegetation poor and stunted. Had our shores been without this warming influence, and the British Isles compelled to subsist on their own geographical allowance of heat, we should have been left in the same condition. We were within 100 miles of Long Island, when our course was shaped so as to pass south and west of the little George Bajdc, and so on to Halifax. In this run several dredgings and soundings were obtained in average depths of 1350 fathoms, the bottom yielding chiefly grey ooze, and the course of the Gulf Stj earn was again crossed. On the 8th May, when about 90 miles south of Halifax, we sounded in 75 fathoms on Le Have Bank. On the morning of the 9th May, tlie "utline of the coast of Nova Scotia was before us, **j», later in the day we entered between the head- !)^ II M ^1 ill 70 CBUISE OF E.MS. CRALLENGEB. lands of the magriiflcent harbour of Halifax, which is so well sheltered l)y McNab's Island, lying at its mouth, that it affords security and safe anchorage to vessels of any magnitude. This island is covered with extensive foliage and vegetation, all bright and green, and, with the pretty white lighthouse at its western extremity, can scarcely l)e surpassed for pictorial effect. Steaming on, we next pass St. George's Island, which seems to lie in the very heart of the harbour, and is well and strongly fortified. A short distance farther and we reach our destination, alongside the wharf of the Naval Yard, for the purpose of completiug stores. This colony, the history of which dates back to July 1749, was founded at the instigation of the Earl of Halifax, at that time President of the Board of Trade and Plantations. The city, with its suburbs, extends, for over two miles in length, along the slope of a hill on the western side of a very fine harbour. To the tourist it presents varied and mmierous attractions. Its charming situation, its safe harbour and splen- did scenery, are not to be surpassed on this side of the Atlantic. The sea runs up into various little bays and coves indenting the land in many directions, giving a variety of charming aspects to the entire scene, and finally ending in Bedford Basin, a broad sheet of water covering an area jf nine square .i-rnimmwf^i^-i HALIFAX. 71 miles, its banks rich in all sorts of charming foHa|n:e, where cluster numerous pretty villa residences of the wealthy families. The appearance of the city on first landing is not very prepossessing, but on reaching its centre, there are seen good broad streets, well built upon, with shops and stores of large dimensions, where all the luxuries and requirements of life are to be obtained. Amongst these, Granville and Hollis Streets take the pre- eminence, ccmtaining as they do the best of the shops, and most of the principal public buildings, such as the new Post Office, House of Assembly, Public Library, &c., besides club-houses and banks, all worthy of note for the beauty of their architecture ; in addition to which may be enumerated Govern- ment House, Dalliousie College, Wellington Bai-racks, Hospital, and Admiralty House, all fine buildings of their class. It is the seat of two Bishops, the Anglican Bishop of Nova Scotia, and the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Halifax. There are over thirty cliurches and chapels, some of them very handsome structures, including almost all important denominations ; and for charitaljle institutions, Halifax is said to out- number any other city of its size in the Provinces. Among them are asylums for insane, deaf and dumb, the blind, besides some twenty others, where all sorts and conditions of men and women can receive aid and assistance in time of need. h' ^lm'i\ fV. m ill 72 CRUISE OF lULS. CUALLENGEH. Tli< re are in tlic city ^sovun or ei^'ht Uiiiks, Masonic llall, iiiid clubs ; there are several gold- miiiiiinacle-covered fragment of timher, wliicli was secured and overlianled for tlje sake of any living creatnreH adliering to its Hides. But wliat seenuid to im])art an extra interest to our e very-day life, when clear of the Tropics, was the vast numl)ei' of sea-birds constantly accompanying us, ])ro]);ihly attiacted l>y the numerous fragments of j)rovisions tlirown overboard. Cap(? pigeons, those prettily marked birds about the size of doves, the majestic albatross, stormy petrels of all sizes, follow on in motley groups, never seeming to weary in their search for food. These birds appear to possess a remarkable capacity for remembering the exact time when they are Hkely to get a feed, for day after day, soon after noon, the viciin'ty of the vessel was usually animated with their shrill shrieking and fighting with each other for the dainty morsels thrown overboard. T]\Q soundings ap])eared to indicate that a bank with about 2000 fathoms of water on it connects the Trislan Islands with the coast of SoutJi America, The dredgings were not quite so productive as had I':S ih' ! »! Pi n CliVISK OF llJt.S. (lIMI.ENdKH. Imhmi |>iv\i(»iiHly lli(» cnH)*. On llio Cth Oclnl.rr, in lal. .'{0"hi>ii(1i, \\v |)icl<(Ml ii|) lli(H>()ininun('(>ni<Nl(Mli(>H," and liv IIumt iniliuMKu^ wuH in lor islandH. On llio njoniin^ of (lio I5|.li land Hi,iilil,a li(ll(> H|)(M'lc al liiHl. liHin^mp dark and iii^^cd onl of llu> H(»a, ^nowin^ \\\.v^(\v and la.i|»MM- aw wo n(>arod, hMininalin^- al lonylJi in a. Iin^r(, conii^ai poak Honio .sooo \\^x\i in licii^lif, (h>V(M(m1 with hiiow. It HiMMUH HiirpriMin^' tliai piMtplo cafi l»o lonnd to liMvc associatiouH and IVIcmmIh, and iHoialo tlicin- H(dv('N in sncli an ()iit-nt'-tli(>-\vav plaoo an tiiifi, nion; r(Mn(>li> iVoni otlx'i' iidialtitcd pJacc^H tliaii a.Fiy ot.l NcttltMutMit. on tlio la('(» of tlu^ ^•IoIk». At, tlio l,inH) of onr visit tlu> popnlatioii (M)nHiHt(Ml ol" Honio t.wont-y f'ainilicH. nnnduMin^ cigld y-l'onr in all. Soon ai'tor onr ancliorinj^: ii Itoal. cann^ olV witli RincntcMMi of tlio i.slandiM's. AnjonjL»Hi lluMn vvaH l\it(M' (J tlu'ir p)vcM-nor, from wlioni it. wa.H awortaiiKMl that tli(\v had ]>KMdy of cattle and vcfifolahlrH for wile, '.riiis was widcoiuo iiowh, for fresh piovisioriH aro alwavH acci'ptahlo after heiii^ a long- lime at reon. Hoa. They however proved, an wan found out later, that they were not ahovo tryin^j^ to make a ^ood bargain out of lis, an(i consequently Hpoiled the market for lh(Muselves. AVe had approached tlie land as near as Hafety permitted; the weather ])romising to bo fine, opf)()r- tiinilios \/ero taken to laud. Soon after le; ivinir the ?K--i 77//'; INACCI'JSSmiJ'l IHIANI). 9r, V'»RH('I, Mil («Xl('IIKi\(» licit, (if MCM-WCCfl WJIH (oilfl'l Cll- ciniliii^ lli(> iKlfnid, foriiiin^ ii. fuiliirnl liroik wjilor, nnd HO [irrvciiliiin^ IIm' violcnrc of llie licjivy Aflnniic, BiiF-l ln(^!il ImiiI, mII, morn or IfiHH, ^ot m, w^'ttiii/r, .|K llic rollcrH ImcjiIv mIohj^ flic IkimcIi, ImiI, jillf'i {», KcrfirnliN^ nil Ijirnl'd ri;.';lit, cnoii^li, jind rruiflo >t t(»iir of" tli<^ HottlfiMioiit,, wliirli jh ri}irrM',sHf;sK, in f;orri- nion, Hofrir (our or five, luindn'd Im'JhI of cattle; an( a |)i(!n til'iil >lv of Kiipply ot poultry ariM pitrH AHtlioday ndviirifcd, tfic, wcatfi^r (•.\\'Au\:yA to wind nnd niin, and it, waH witfi Korne difficulty all ^ot on l)ojird in Ha fcty. During tlio viKit to tlic nliorc a Htory was told of two (lormariH, wlio had l>(!f;n living at the wcll- narncd InacccHnihlc Inland 'M) rnilcH fartficr Houth, who }iad voluntarily exiled therrisedvfiH with the hope of ohtaining Kcal nkins, hnt lat,edy notJiing had l)een lienrd of tliem, and it waHHUf>poHed they had perinhed. Througliout the night tlie veHHel wan Bteamed across the c}iannel, and on tlie following morning the land wa8 closed, but nothing indicating life was at first seen. H 1 i ''\ 1 i ; i; 1'^ : I ; ■^ 96 CliUISE OF TI.M.S. CHALLENGER. A l)0}xt's crew, liowever, landed, and in a very sliort timo tlio would-])e Ro])ins()n Crusocs were discovered neai- a little grass liiit tliey called their home. Not much ])i'essing was necessary to induce them to come on hoard, when, after a good l)rea1cfast, they were alile to tell their own story, which was as follows: — +->' 1l THK STOKY OF FTiKhERIfK STOLTENIIOFF (tIIE ELDKR).* ])om in ]\h)Scow, of German parents, clotli ping season, and we were able to procure nineteen ; the skins were afterwards sold, and we were not able to make any qiiantity of oil. Three sea-elephants were ashore on the north side when the men from Tristan landed, but they were not ca})tured. Our first house failed to stand the rain, the pitch of the roof being too little. Tiiis necessitated its being pulled down, and we shifted our quarters a little nearer the waterfall, our water supply. Up to this time, although hard work was necessary, we had experienced no hardship; but our sujiplies of rice, flour, and biscuits, were rapidly disappearing. Working on the beach every day we were unable to climb the cliff in search of pigs or goats, and thus supplement our first supply of provisions. The middle of January saw the end of the regular sealing season. In seal-hunting around the island our whale-boat, which was too heavy for two men to handle, was damaged in landing in the surf; but was yet serviceable by aid of constant bailing. We had seen nothing of our neighbours; and only a few ships passed within sight of the island, without stopping. In the beginning of April 1872, the tussack by which we had ascended the cliff close to the house caught fire, whilst we were clearing the ground below by burning, and all the tussack on the north side was destroyed. Our means of reaching game being thus cut off, and winter approaching, it became imperative to begin laying in provisions. With this view we cut the whale-boat in halves, and, discarding the worst portion, succeeded in making a smaller boat, which would Hoat in fine weather. To tin's specimen of naval architecture we gave the name of Sea Cart I By aid of the boat a visit was made to the west side of the island, whence we could climb to the plateau ; and shooting two goats we salted them down. A fat pig also assisted our store, by furnishing a bucket of fat for irying potatoes; the carcase of the pig was too heavy for our boat when laden with other r,; STOBT OF THE BEOTHERS STOLTENHOFF. 101 supplies. The meat of the wild goats we found to be most delicate and finely flavoured. In November 1871 the number of goats we counted to be twenty-three, chiefly rams. Of these, three were shot by the Tristan people, six were shot by us, and fourteen remained during the winter. The number of wild pigs v/as great ; the boars, although of difftirent sizes, standing in some cases as high as a sheep. Their food, other than roots and grass, is furnished in endless quantity by the birds and their eggs, of which an immense number are consumed by them. The meat of the boar is rank and uneatable ; that of the sows wholesome and good. On 14th May 1872 (by our reckoning) an English ship came in sight ; we lighted a fire and attracted the attention of her crew. Tlie Sea Cart was not in a condition to go off to the vessel, and the look of the surf on the beach prevented the captain from atteraj)ting to land ; and to our regret and disappointment the vessel made sail again and passed on. At Tristan d'Acuuha her master reported that he had seen two people and a large square-sterued black boat on the beach, but that no one came off. Had we been able to communicate with this vessel, it was not our intention to leave the island if we could have obtained supplies. The winter set in in June, the month following ; but was never v^ery severe, although we experienced a lot of rain, and lieavy gales generally from the north-west. It never froze on the level of the sea ; but during a strong gale from the Bouth-east the Sea Cart was washed off the beach and broken up. In May our first and only crop of potatoes obtained that year was dug, and during the iollowing months some of the other vegetables were fit for food. Unable to reach the {)lateau, after the loss of the boat, our store of provisions was soon so reduced, although husl)ande(l with care, that we were obliged to diminish our allowance daily to a quantity just sufficient to maintain life ; and at the middle of August we were little better than skeletons. The male penguins, i.' I ^1 i i'' i ': \\ u n li si ; |. rr.i 102 CRUISE OF EJI.S. CHALLENGER. forming [sart of a rookery about a mile from our hut, had landed at the end of July ; and in the middle of August, when it became almost a necessity to resort to killing them for sustenance, the females came ashore, laid their eggs a fortnight later on the nests already formed or built by their lords, and we were only too glad to avail ourselves of this supply of food. The day previous to the penguins laying we had eaten our Ip.st potato, and were without any supply of provisions whatever. The only other birds within our reach were the night-birds, and a few thrushes and canaries ; of these the thrushes only were fit for food. In the first week of September 1872 we were glad enough to sight a French bark, which hove- to ofi" our beach, and whose captain landed after seeing our signals. We shipped in her our nineteen seal skins; and in return for a lot of eggs, her captain gave us about sixty pounds of biscuits and a couple of pounds of tobacco. Fearing the weather, the captain of this vessel did not land again, and we could not obtain any further supply. The bark was bound to the East Indies, and had she arrived a fortnight sooner both my brother and myself would cer- tainly have been most glad to quit our habitation. A fort- night on a diet of eggs ad lihitum had so far restored our stn^ngth that we decided yet to remain. During the next month our food consisted of eggs and biscuits from tiie French vessel. In October 1872, on tlie 20th, a schooner (fore-nnd-aft) was seen standing in towards the island. She proved to be the Themis, a schooner making sealing voyages amongst the islands in the South Atlantic, frt)m the Cape; of Good Hope. A gale of wind drove her to sea for two days, when she returned and communicated, binding six men and boys in a boat from Tristau d'Acunha. The ca[)tain of the schooner, who landed with them, was civil, and offered me some salt pork and biscuits ; we accepted about thirty pounds of tlie former and a small quantity of STORY OF THE BROTHEBS STOLTENHOFF. 103 the latter. The schooner sailed the same day. Both of us were anxious to take passage in her, and intended to have done so on her return in a few weeks' time, wlien her captain stated he would revisit the island. The interim was to have been spent in trapjiing seal, the season for which had commenced. Indeed, the next day we obtained the finest skin of our collection. Altliougli civil in making us a present of pork and biscuits, to which was added two pounds of tobacco, the captain of the Tliemis declined to barter except for seal skins, and of tliese we were unfortunately not possessed. The men of Tristan had come over, they stated, to see what we were doing ; but they had not availed them- selves of the opportunity by the scliooncr of sending the cattle promised ; and they excused tliemselves in different ways for not iiaving brought them in their own boats. Several small articles were appropriated by our visitors during their stay of half a day, when they returned to the schooner and lelt the island. No goats or pigs were shot by them, and they promised another visit in a forlniglit. During the next few days we worked hard to catcli seals, with which to pay our passage to the Cnpe on the return (jt tlie Themis. Tlie Themis never returned, and we were doomed to disappointment. At the end of Ocfober our supply of penguin eggs died, and we were compelled to seek another sour( e of subsistence. On the 10th November, our supply of biscuit and pork being exhausted, and the weather being very calm and fine, ray brother and I swam around the nearest point to the eastward, with our blankets, the rifle, and a sjiare suit of clothes — th(? latter, with our powder, matches, and kt^ttle in one of the oil casks. Stopping the night at the foot of the cliff, the next morning we both mounted by aid of the tussack grass to the plateau, and went over to the west side, and descended to tlie vicinity of our first abode. Here we built a hut, and, having shot a pig, enjoy((l a feast of fresh meat. The next day 1 shot a goat, I' ,. ; t- ■ ' ,i,T( . „:„!(• iiM ■ ,■ ' ■ ' ' ' 104 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. on which, with the meat of six otliers subsequently killed by me, we lived till the lOtii December. The goats I found ha I increased to nineteen during the winter. Keturning on the loth December to our house, we arrived at the conclusion tliat our stay on the island would be prolonged, and repaired our thatch, weeded the garden, gatbered the early potatoes, planted, and put things in order. I have omitted to state that in fine weather, in summei-, we fished from our boat with good success, and after her loss, from a rock to which we waded at low water, and tbus changed our diet. In winter time the occasions on which it was possible to fish did not exceed three or four times ; the weatlier and surf preventing our reaching the rock, and the fish avoided the beach during heavy seas. Whilst on the west side during this month, we were visited by an American whaler (sch xmer), whicli sent in two boats to fish, and from her we procured five pounds of tobacco, three shirts, tvventy-tive pounds of flour, and six or seven pounds of molasses, in return for Ax small seal skins. The Themis was expected, or we should have gone away in this schooner. On th ^ 19th December we were aroused by firing and shouting, to find our Tristan neigh- bours once more among us. They had spent nine days on the west side of^the island, had procured forty seals and one sea-elephant; and two seals from Nightingale Island, whcr • they had spent a couple of days. One of our casks on the west side they had tiken to stow blubber in, and we received a small quantity of fiour in exchange. After staying hall' an hour, they left, telling us that the Themis would visjt Tristan the following month, and afterwards Inaccessibli' Island. Although anxious to leave, I was not desirous, except as a last resouice, to go to Tristan ; and buoyed up bv the hope, again rc^vived, of an early visit from the Themis, my brothei- iin 1 1 remained on the island. Tiiis was the last communication with us until the arrival of the 'I 'I STORY OF THE BBOTHERS STOLTENHOFF. 105 Challenger, ten months utter vn aids. 1'he Tristan men, during their nine days' stay, liad shot eight of tlie remaining twelve goats, and expressed tlieir regret openly that they had not been able to shoot the other four. The Themis we saw at Tristan in January, but no visit was paid to us. About the 22nd January I swam round the point again, mounted the cliff", and succeeded in shooting four pigs. From these two buckets of fat were filled. I saw the four goats, but refrained from shooting them. The hams of the pigs I threw over the clilf to my brother. On this occasion I remained eight days on the hills, paying a visit to the hut on the west side every night to sleep. At this time the albatrosses and sea-birds were laying on the top of the island, and their eggs formed a portion of my food. The young sea-birds were also })alatablH. On the 1st February, the day after I rejoined my brother, a boat came across from Tristan, landed on the west side, and her crew shot or took away the only remaining four goats; for what reason it is difficult to say, as there is an abundance of food of every description, including sheep, at Tristan. Their object appeared to us to be to drive us from the island. After a detention of a day, by bad weather, the boat returned to Tristan without communicating with us ; indeed, they endeav(mred to avoid being seen, or so it appeared to us, who were in a measure unable to commimi- cate with them. February passed quietly ; wo were living on potatoes and vegetables from our clearings, mixed with fat. In March, our fat and potatoes being expended, another visit around the point was made by both of us in company. We discovered the loss of the goats ; but shot several pigs, and lived on the west side for a fortnight. During this time, on our excursions to the top of the island, we built on the summit a small hut of tussack grass, large enough to i: :!■ 1^ \\i \i m 106 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. hold one. The petrels had landed in November, and their young in April formed a capital addition to our food. It was now decided that I should remain at the top to secure a supply of pig's fat sufficient for the winter, whilst my brother lived below, and collected in a barrel the fat thrown down to him by me. After killing a pig, the hide with the fat attached was rolled up, secured by pieces of hide, and thrown over the cliff. The wan., of salt prevented us salting down the meat. Tobacco now failed us, and its want was much felt, both of us being heavy smokers. My brother, on separating from me to live below, had taken three young pigs which we had managed to catch, by running them down. Secured to our barrel they were towed round the point and safely landed, although nearly drowned en route. These vvere placed in an inclosure and carefully tended,* being kept for a possible dearth during winter. The pigs being small, it was possible, by means of a rope, to lower them down the most difficult places, and carry them down the easier ones. My sojourn on the top of the island came to an end with the last days of April. Returning to my brother, we lived on petrels and potatoes until the end of May. A supply of two live pigs which I had brought down with me met a watery grave in my endeavour to weather the point with them in tow. I was fortunate enough, notwithstanding the surf, to get ashore without serious injury. Finding the supply of potatoes insufficient for the winter, on 8th June I again visited the top of the island, remaining there until the 18th August. Before parting company from my brother, we decided to shift quarters for the winter a little farther from the waterfall, and succeeded in building a house, which stood during the bad weather, and in which we were living until quitting the island. * The pigs were fed on grass and green stuff generally, and penguin eggs when in season. . \ .,• ,:|. STOBY OF THE BROTHEES STOLTENHOFF. 107 The month of June I spent in our hut at the top, that of July in a cave — the latter the better habitation during cold weather. I saw my brother nearly every day, and unless prevented by a high wind or high surf, we could hold a sort of conversation. Gustav, whilst below, saw a large iron ship, filled with people, pass within a mile of the hut. This happened during the first lull after a heavy gale, with thick weather. When seen, the crew were employed making sail to clear the island. During this winter we suffered no great privation, always having enough to eat, although consisting of pig's flesh only. Of flour, rice, potatoes, or vegetables, I was destitute. I had a little tea; no tobacco. My brother was no better off. As soon as the penguins began to lay, we set to work, collecting their eggs, and were living on them, chiefly fried in pig's fat, when the Challenger hove in sight. At this time I had left my rifle, with about fifty rounds of ammuni- tion, in the cave. Although the piece had burst in two places, it was still in a sufficiently good condition to shoot a pig. The fowling-piece burst, and was of little use except as blow-pipe to freshen up the fire. Our knives we had lost amongst the high grass, and the saw furnished steel enough for half a dozen knives in their place. We placed the saw in a fire, and cut off the knives with our chisel, hardening the i'*on, then placed it in a handle, and it was ready for use. Our clothes were still in wearable order ; boots and shoes we were in want of, although mocassins had taken their place. The medicine, providentially, had not been required ; neither of us was sick a day. Eight or nine pounds of coffee was still left, iiiid about one pound of tea; four bottles of vinegar remained, but their contents were spoiled. When together, the days on which we were confined to our hut by rain passed heavily. Our library consisting of only eight books and an atlas, its contents are well known by us both. .1 11 •L- olate regions, completely isolated from the world ! Here they remain for three years at a time, when, if Ihey are lucky, they return home, with perhaps 50/. or 60/. in their pockets. This is probably spent in a couple of months, and they again return to their voluntaiy exile and live on penguins, young albatrosses, and sea-birds' eggs for another period. The roads (?) in every direction were swampy and exceedingly un- pleasant ; wading through the snow and slush, the miserable huts were reached, looking lonely and desolate, the shore for some distance being strewn with bones and fragments, the remains of sea- elephants, &c. Several excurssions were planned during our short stay to visit the glaciers and the per.Q'uin rookeries, for these birds seemed to be in myriads, covering every ledge and precipice pre- senting a footing. THE FIPxST ANTARCTIC ICEBERG. 133 All those prearnuif^ed plans were, however, friis- n-ated, for during the night the barometer fell, and tlie weather put on a very threatening appearance. The anxious circumstances now under which we were placed on this inhospitable coast caused u move to be made at a very early hour the following morning, at which time it was snowing very heavily as we proceeded to sea. Before well clear of the land (for we had endeavoured to make a rough running survey), the expected gale burst upon us : still it was a fair wind, and the ship ran on pleasantly towards the Antarctic ice until the middle of the night, when the sea and wind increased to such an extent that we had to heave-to. But it was not oi long duration, and as daylight came, the weather moderated, and under a bright sun and clear s? y, \vith a favourable breeze, we sped on at a rate ot 9 or 10 knots an hour to the south waid, causing us to forget the few miserable days spent at and near the Heard Islands. During the next three days, we pushed on under sail, the weather continuing very squally, with rain and frequent snow-storms, the temperature of the air being down to 33°. Feb. llth. — This morning at an early hour we en- countered the first Antarctic iceberg, bearing E.S.E. to our course. On passing within a few miles, it was from observation considered to be three-fourths of a mile long and 200 feet in height. We are now in latitude 60° 62' south, longitude 80° 20' west, rl 1! 134 CRUISE OF n.M.8. CHALLENGER. t n dredging and sounding frequently with good results. From this time the icebergs became very numerous, and great was the excitement on board as we passed these novel sights. The rich cobalt blue tints blend- ing into the white of the ice produced a very fine effect. The weather was very fine, and each day now we continued to meet icebergs of all shapes and sizes, some apparently much worn by the sea into cavities and great fissures, as if they were ready to split asunder ; others of tabular form, with heavy surf breaking up their perpendicular sides. Sailing on, we pass much loose ice, evidently fragments of broken-up icebergs ; and a beautiful white petrel, Procellaria glacius, was seen for the first time. From this we were led to believe we were in the vicinity of large masses of ice, for it is known that these birds never wander far from the main pack. Feb. 13//i. — The weather became hazy, with occa- sional snow-storms. Many large icebergs in sights some of which are of magnificent dimensions, nearly a mile in leiigtli, and from 150 to 200 feet in height, with sides perfectly smooth as if they had been chiselled ; others again exhibited lofty pinnacles, with sides and ends of many-coloured tints, leading into deep caverns open to the swell of the sen. At noon to-day we were within 120 miles of the Antarctic Circle. Continuing our course until mid- night, we found ourselves in a fog, close to an extensive area of brash ice, extending far away in a , ICEBERGS AND PACK ICE. 135 south-east direction. Fortunately at the time the wind allowed us to back out again, and we hove-to for daylight, when a beautiful sight was presented, for we were close to the edge of the pack, whicli from the masthead appeared to be perfectly solid, without any opening in either direction. The north-west wind of the previous day had apparently forced all this mass together. Some hours were speiit dredging in 1675 fathoms (bottom greenish mud). A small number of starfishj some small shrimps, and a few curious Crustacea and diatomaceae were obtained. After dredging, we sto.xl on a westerly course under sail. The novelty of being surrounded with icebergs (for they were now so numerous that we had to alter course occasionally so as to clear them), and having on one side of the horizon a boundless field of ice, with calm weather, and a totally new set of sea-birds, amongst which was the elegant, pure white little petrel (which became more numerous), gave us intense delight. Experiments were now carried out relative to the temperature of the sea. At the surface it was found to be SO*^, and at a depth of 1600 fathoms 26°. Snow and sleet came on, accompanied with an easterly breeze, and the temperature of the air fell to 28°. Feb. I6th. — The day was dull and cold, tempera- ture of air down to 28° ; wind light and sea calm, so made but little progress under sail. There are several large " bergs " in sight, and an extensive i *i. :i i ih I 1 ' "Si 186 CRUISE OF IUI.S. CUALLENQEB. m 1 m W , . 1 field of pack ice extending from tlie soutli-west. A line of eight bergs and low masses of ice extends from north to sonth-west. Ahout 9 p.m., in the twiliglit, had a fine sight in passing close to an immense iceberg, with its strange and curious form, reflecting very brilliant blue rays in every variety of shade. A magnificent sunset caused the liorizon to be illuminated witli bright red streaks up to 10.30 P.M. by refraction from the ice. Feb. 16/A. — The weather was remarkably fine, such as is but seldom ex])erieiiced in tliese high latitudes — bright sun and blue sky, with but little wind ; so had recourse to steam, passing some magnificent ice- bergs, extending in all directions and in every con- ceivable shape and form ; for the most part having flat tops covered with snow, glistening in the sun, with smooth, inaccessible sides, beautifully tinted with every shade of blue and green. It was about 1.30 p.m. when we crossed the barrier of the Antarctic Circle (latitude 66° 30' south), in longitude 78° east, situated about 1400 miles from the South Pole. The sight was indeed a grand one as we threaded our way through the pack ice and up through avenues of vast bergs, over a course never before taken by explorers ; all this left an impression of those icy desolate regions that can never be forgotten. It seems most difficult to attempt a description, for all I could say would convey but little of the reality to the imagination of one who has not been similarly situated. Pro- EARLY EXPLOItERS. 187 ceeding on to latitude 6G° 40' south, the course was altered, and the horizon scanned in all directions for land ; the weather was unusually clear, so that we should certainly have seen it had any existed within a considerable distance : none however was visible. The Circle was recrossed, and we proceeded east along the margin of the great pack. The icebergs had now become so numerous that it was not unusual to be able to count over one hundred and fifty from the deck, and many of them appeared to be miles in length. The next day was very squally, haze extending all round the horizon, and frequent snow-storms occurred, we steering east for Wilkes' Termination Land, which was supposed to be 440 miles distant. This land, which was believed to exist, and whic}i appeared on all early charts of the world as the *' Terra Australis Incognita," was considered neces- sary to counterbalance the land known to exist around the North Pole ; but such men as Cook, Weddell, Bellinghausen, Kerguelen, and others, searched these inhospitable latitudes in vain for it. Many years passed without anything further being done towards its discovery. However, it seems that the subject was revived in 1831 by Captain Biscoe reporting having seen land ; and a few years later another whaling > aptain (Kemp) gave forth a similar statement ; both these discoveries being between 66° and 67° south, and longitude 59° and r\ 138 CRUISE OF E.M.S. CPALLENGER. n!^ 07° east. In 1839 Captain Balleay ref)ortecl land in latitude 66° 44', longitude 163° east. D'Urville, with his vessels of the French expedition, discovered (?) Adelia Land and the Ciuria Coast (?) about the same time. And in 1840, Captain Wilkes, in com- mand of the United States exploring expedition, i>ave forth to the world his discovery of the Ant- arctic Continent, which he describes as follows: — " In latitude 64° 31' south, longitude 93° east, we made what was believed to be land to the south and west, at least so far as * terra firma' can be distin- guislied when everything is covered with snow, foundings were obtained in 320 fathoms, which con- firmed all our previous doubts, for on later observa- tion a dark object, resembling a mountain in the distant e, was seen, and many other indications pre- sented themselves confirming it. Advancing to the westward, the indications of the approach to land were becoming too plain to admit of a doubt. The constant and increasing noise of the penguins and seals, the dark and discoloured aspect of the ocean, strongly impressed us with the belief tliat a positive result would aiise in the event of a possibility to advance a few n^iles farther to the southward."* This, to a ce.iain extent, they thought conclusive, and fully l>elieved that an extensive continent existed within the icy birrier, extending perliaps for nearly I(K)0 miles near the Antarctic Circle, between the • ' United Stuti'H Kxpl()l•in^' Kxpi'tlition.' THE AURORA AUSTRAL IS. 131> Balleii)' Islands and Enderby Land ; but this reo^inn of vast mountains has such a barrier of impenetrable ice encircling the Pole that there appears but little probability of ever penetrating. The supposed exist- ence of this continent was, to a certain extent, proved to be erri)neous by Sir James C. Ross's expedition the following year sailing over two of the |)osition8 assigned to it. For another point of this continent (?) we are now shaping a course. F«'h. ISth. — The coldest weather yet experienced; temperature of air down to 23^°. All the forenoon, we sail through vast fields of ice, and large numbers of bergs are in sight in all directions. Some of these great perpendicular masses overtopped our mast- heads by many feet. In many |:)laces, where there happened to be a break, we could see the upper surface, which appeared quite smooth, and conveyed to the mind the idea of an immense plain of frosted silver. Following in our track were great numbers of sea-birds — albatrosses, petrels. Cape pigeons, terns, night hawks, kc. As the day advanced, we rounded the northern extremity of the piick, and sto(»d east, intending to run on this course for about 2oO miles. During the evening a beautiful view was had ot" the Aurora Australis extending across the zenith, of a bright yellow colour, its edges tinged with purple, exhibiting at times vivid flushes of a bright j»ink colour. A strong light appeared behind the dark cloud, and afterwards pink yellow, and green 1 I 140 CnUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. k '^! colours were traced aloiiG^ its edges. Bright streams of light frequently darted upward from the clouds to the zenith, forming coronse, and exhibiting l)rilliant flashes of all the prismatic colours. Several whales and numerous sea-birds weie in sight. Feh. 1 n//i. — From the great quantities of ice found (..kei) ; as it was considered that ai; y furtlior stay in tliesQ icy regions would not only be attenaok- wards and foiwards from one to the other, the steam enabling the ship to hold her own. It was altogether a fearful and perilous night. Feh. 21 th. — Daylight was hailed with much tliank- fulness ; the gale stiij blowing its iitmost. However, such fierce squalls are never of long duration in these latituiles. Most providentially iiie weather, as the (lay advanced, seemed to subsidv^ ; and as there had been no mishap, we had mucii to be thankful for in being [)ref crved from the dangers and perils of the past twenty-four hours. Later in the day bail was nuuli', and we again proceeded on our course. Next noon we were Iji latitutle fl2° 2' south, longitude r>7° H' east, and about 2215 miles from (^ope Otway, Vic- toria. AustrabVi Before the strong favouriiig gale good progress was made, eveiv one heartily glad to lake leave of the desolate icy regions, after our late experie!ice of what a gale really was ii* the Antarctic. On the 4th March, in latitude 53 * 1 7' south, longi- ANCHOR IN HUBSON'S BAY. U6 M i^ tude 100° 23' east, we passed our last iceberg, but the sea-water remained sufficiently cold for them to float about in it for some time without melting until we attained the 50th parallel of latitude. Whenever the weather permitted, we sounded and trawled with good reaults. Upon investigating the proceeds, it was found to consist of nearly the same fauna as that discovered further north. On the 13th March, 400 miles from Cape Otway, an extremely interesting haul with the trawl was obtained in 2600 fathoms; GOO to 700 fathoms deeper than we had met with since leaving the ('ape. The bottom proved to be of the same kind of dark brown mud. Tlie weather continued variable as we proceeded north, one day squally, the next calm, with heavy rain and fog; and not until reaching latitude 44° 30' south did fine weather really greet us; then, with a favourable westerly breeze, good {progress was daily made, and on the evening of March iGth land was in sight, the first for forty days. Cape Otway, Australia's south-western point, was ahead, and the bright light glimmering in the chirkness of the night. A short distance fartlier, and we are reminded that our voyage will soon be at an end. Next day crossed the bar, and passed Port Phillip's lieadland ; shortly after Hobson's Bay was readied, and we anchored in the harbour of one of the finest colonial cities England possesses. I ini i; t > >f 116 CBUISE OF ILM.S. CHALLENGER, i \ I \\ < ) I, I : 'l5! I '..m P \ NumberH of infliitMitial citizens immediately boarded TiH, otrering every assistance, and a cordial welcome to Australian waters. The city is some four or five miles from the ant-Jior- aN8. DRKDOINO ON TlB rAKAMATTA lilVKU. HYUNI.Y. (^ITAPTEU VII. ilELUOUUNK (VicTOUIA) TO SVDNKY (NkW SoUTH WALKS) AND Wemjnuton (New Zkaland). MollK)\iriu'— -Th(! city uiid Kulmrlts— ViKit to HiiUftrat— Tlio city— Its pold niiiu'K— Mt'nH)uriie to Sydney— First si^'lit of Sydney IIciidH — Arrive ut Sydney, Now South WuIck — Anchor in Fiirni Covo — Sydney Il!irl)our — Picnic on Mount Victoria -Zi^'/aj; on tho Tireut Western Hnilway— The lUuu Mountains, and Valley of tlie Ni'lMMin-Tlio city~!*aran)atta liivi^r— KluKleH— The dn d^inK pif- nic— Kntortainnunts (!urin^? our stay — Karly liistory of the colony — licavo S.v'iney— The stormy weather — Itettu'u and anchor in Watson's Hay— Sydney to N(!\v Zealand -Daily sounding's Kou^'li wentlior— Anchor for shelter in I'ort Hardy and Queen Oharlotlo Sound — Man washed ovorlK)ard and drowned -Sight I'allisor Hoads — Anchor ofT Wellington— Port Nicholson. YiCTO!{iA i'h tlio wealtliioHt. <>( all iMi^liiMd's colonial poBHOHHicjiiH ; lier trade exceeds tliirt^-two inillioiis L 2 I i I' I KiM \\ i ft '% trt 148 CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER. per aimum, with a yearly revenue of four millions and a half, which is greater than that of Den- mark or Portugal, and several other monarchies of Euro[)e. Melbourne has made a name for itself, and is un- doubtedly the capital, not only of Victoria, but of all Australia ; and though only just forty years have elapsed since the first white man landed on its site, it has already, with its suburbs, 240,000 inhabit- ants : in otlua* words, it may be classed as the ninth city in the British Empire, exceeding as it does in population such ancient cities as Jkistol and Edin- burgh. It is adorned with fine public buildings, and pos- sesses all the comfort and luxuries of a European capital. Its internal appearance is certainly very fine : the streets are all straight, and are arranged at right angles to each other. East and west are Great Flinders Street and Collins Street, which is the high-street of the citv ; then there are Swanson and Hourke Streets, each filled with handsome business premises, banks, theatres, opera-houses, churches. In fact, it is im- possible for any one (particularly strangers coming in from the monotonous sea) to walk its length and breadth without being struck by its grandeur and dimensions. The public buildings, warehouses, and private residences are lemarkable for their extent and archi- i THE CITY AND SUBinDS. 149 and the ["eets, |nikH, im- liiing iiu^th ideur Ivate rclii- tectural heauty, imparting a most stylish appearance to the city. This most truly wonderful country, with its enormous wealth, is enahled to devote annually nearly one-third of* its revenue raised by tiixation to aid public instruction ; a fact, I believe, without ])aralk'l elsewhere. Grants are annually made to ])ublic schools, universities, libraries, ])icture-gallerie8, and museums, to schools of art and mining, and to various literary and scientific institutions. The universities and c(dleges are found with talented professors on their staff in the varied branches of science. Museums and national galleries are filled with interesting specimens of local and world-wide fame, and paintings of the highest merit ; the free libraries, with thousands of volumes on their shelves, are open to all comers. How proud, then, are the residents of this Greater Britain of their institutions ; and well they are jiistified in their pride. The Botanic Gardens, well stocked with all that is beautiful in flowers, plants, ferns, and lovely trees, are of themselves a perfect paradise of science to those interested in botanical studies. The suburbs, including R^'chmond, Brigliton, and St. Kildf^, are very lovely sj)()ts : the foliage, the charming' villa residences, with glimpses here and there of the bright blue sea, all tend to complete this pretty picture ; while away in varied directions n %. "^ r^%. .V^. W. ^V."^-^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 1.25 us 2.0 ^ IllllJi^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WIBSTER.N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 u. % I 11 i-H 150 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER. are the public gardens, or Reserves, as they are named, affording green walks and shady retreats, and mainly assisting to bring much of the health, and some of thf' pleasures, to those whose business may keep them in town. Sucli is tliis truly wondrous place — a city which has risen to its present proud position as if by magic ; but it is only another evidence of the energy and perseverance of the English race. While in Victoria, I had opportunities of seeing much of interest, and to join in many pleasant ex- cursions in the suburbs ; amongst others was a trip by rail to Ballarat. On leaving the Spencer Street Railway Station, after a run of somewhat over 100 miles, the destination was reached, which since the gold fever of 1853 has been metamorphosed from a few canvas tents to an extensive and beautiful city. From tlie discovery of the riches of Golden Point — the first opening of those famous "jewellers' shops " — the progress of Ballarat has been steadily onward. At the present time there are about one hundred and twenty streets, some of them containing hand- some buildings ; there are forty or fifty schools full of scholars ; hospitals, asylums, a town-hall, and police-courts ; several banks, mechanics' in- stitute, two or three theatres, gasworks, foun- dries, machine-works, fiour-inills ; and a fine com- modious market has been built ; reserves, and an i \M H VISIT TO BALLARAT 151 ley are •etreats, health, )usines8 ^ which magic ; ?y and seeing" mt ex- ! a trip ' Street ^er 100 ice tlie J from autifnl olden ellers' eadily ndred ha' 1(1- jhools hall, in- oun- coni- 1 an extensive Botanic Garden, have been laid out for the pleasures of the people. The merchants have their Chamber of Commerce ; the mechanics, their Literary Institution ; the farmers, their Agricultural Society ; and those interested in mining, their hchool and col- leges. But the rate of progress has not been con- fined to the limits of the city, for thousands of acres all round are under cultivation for agricultural pur- poses, where many of those who spent their early colonial days mining are now, after their toil, content to settle down in the bliss of having a farm of their own, and of sitting under their own vine and fig-tree. 0{)portunities were afforded for visiting some of the famous gold-mines in the immediate neighbour- hood, one of which, belonging to the Black Hill Mining Company, situated at the foot of the hill which gives the company its name, on the banks of the river Yarrowee, was particularly interest- ing : here is a most complete and novel set of machinery. The steam-engine, a horizontal one, of 100 horse-power, is placed in the centre of the works, and drives six batteries of ten stamps each. The quartz is supplied to the stampers by a self- feeding apparatus, when it is reduced sulHciently fine to pass through wire gratings, at the back and front of the machine, having one hundred and twenty lioles to the square inch. A small quantity of mercury is put into each stamp- box twice a day. The crushed (quartz is then carrie