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-■^' W. J. J. SPKY, R.N.

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■!1

THE CRUISE

OF HER MAJESTY'S SHIP

CHALLENGE E/'

VOYAGES OVER MANY SEAS,
SCENES IN MANY LANDS

By W. J. J. SPRY, R.N.

CAPTAIN GEORGE 8, MAKES, R.K., P.H a,

IF/T// MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS.

TORONTO :

BELFORD BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,

00 YO UK STREET,

MDccx^LXXVII,

49649

\ i

PanTBD AND BoovD

UOllTBB, EOSB it OObf

xoauNKX

Kntered according to the Act of ti, d ,.

th,.u».„d eight hundred an, eventv r""."' ''°""''''- '" ">' >"«" """
'- Office „, tte Mtai,ter „; 1^7,"."' " "™" ^■'"™""«' ■"

PBEFACE

-•o*-

The important objects for which H.M.S. Challenger
was placed at the disposal of a scientific staff
under the direction of Professor Sir Charles Wyville
Tliomson, F.R.S., the g.atifying results obtained by
the full investigation of the bed of the ocean, and
the vast amount of information gathered by visits to
distant lands very rarely explored, render the cruise
of the Challenger highly interesting and instructive
to the British public.

Under these circumstances, I have been induced
by numerous friends to revise my daily journals, and
publish in a concise and readable form a continuous
narrative of this celebrated voyage.

In this volume I shall not in any way interfere
with the scientific results, beyond simply namino-
them in a cursory and general way, leaving to

a 2

PEE FACE.

Professor Thomson the task of dealing with these
subjects, and the application of the information
obtained to the furtherance of physical knowledge.

The description of places visited is given in the
way that I have viewed them, and under the im-
pressions that filled jay inind at the time ; but as the
geographical aspects of foreign scenes must be similar
by whomsoever observed, it is scarcely possible to
avoid occasionally using descriptions almost identical
with those published on the subject by previous
visitors.

The chief interest connected with this narrative
will be the vast extent traversed in the pursuit of
knowledge, which admits of the combination in this
volume of the general outline of the manners and
customs of nations and tribes rarely visited, and
descriptions of scenery under every condition of
temperature, from the fiery Tropics to the ice-bound
Antarctic regions : thus combining in the work a
fund of information that has been brought together
through special aid of the Government, granted to
the Committee of the Royal Society, and now dedi-
cated to the public use.

1 now respectfully present the narrative of tho

PLEFACE.

cruise of the Challenger to my readers, in the hope
that, while affording information and instruction, it
will prove of sufficient interest to reward its perusal
with some pleasantly passed hours.

WILLIAM J. J. fiPBY.

Dbvonpobt,

December 1&70.

CONTENTS.

-•O*"

PAm

INTEODUCTION

CHAPTER I.

ENGLAND TO LISBON AND GIBRALTAR.

H.M.S. Challenger commissiGued at Sheerness — Objects of the
voyage — Equipment and fittings — Leave Sheemess — The
stormy passage — Arrive at Portsmouth — Commencement of
the voyage— Leaving England — Weather in the Channel —
Across the Bay of Biscay — First sounding and dredging —
The results— Land in sight— Enter the Tagus — Anchor off
the city of Lisbon — Visit the shore — Sight-seeing — Church at
Belem — Churches, gardens, and palaces — Early history of
Portugal — Visit of King Luiz to the Challenger— heiB.yQ
Lisbon — Dredging off Cape St. Vincent — First trial with the
trawl — Venus's flower-baskets — Description — Trawling near
Gibraltar— Obtain specimens of the Umbellularia— Their
description — Pass Cape Trafalgar— Eock of Gibraltar in
sight — Arrive, and secure alongside the mole— Sights iu
Gibraltar — Galleries through the rocks — Stalactite caves-
Gibraltar as a military fortress — Ceremony of opening and
closing the gates — The naval establishment — The town — Its
churches— Garrison library — The Alameda— Neutral Ground
— Campa and San Boque

CHAPTER n.

GIBRALTAR TO MADEIRA AND TENERIFFE (OANART ISLANDS).

Leave Gibraltar— Daily sounding and trawling— Sight Porto Santo
— Its discovery and early history— Arrive and anchor in
Funchal Bay, Madeira— Its early history— First imprea-

i! '

VIU

CONTENTS.

sions — The gardens, buildings, conveyances, dress— Leave
Madeira — Pass the Descitas — Capo Anaga, Teneriflfe, sighted —
The Peak — Anchor off Santa Cruz — The buildings and
streets — Scenery in the country — Ascent of the Peak —
Cruising amongst the group — Sounding and dredging— Ball
at the English Consulate — Naval incidents connected with
Teneriffe 26

CFIAPTEE III.

TENERIFFE (OANARY ISLANDS) TO ST. THOMAS (WEST INDIES).

Leaving Teneriflfe — Sight of the Peak — Commence section across
the Atlantic — Daily soundings and trawlings — The results —
Contiguration of the lx)ttom — In tlie Tropics — The officers of
the feiiip — Life on board — Our daily doings — Description of
the mode of sounding — The ai^paratus and appliances used —
Taking serial temperatures — Dredging and trawling— Island
of Sombrero in sight — Arrive and anchor at St. Thomas . . 36

CHAPTEE IV.

8T. THOMAS (west INDIES) TO BERMUDA AND HALIFAX (nOVA SCOTIA),

AND BACK TO BERMUDA.

At St. Thomas — The town of Charlotte Amalia — Importance of
the island— English vessel in distress — Tow her into port —
Leave St. Thomas — The first death on board — Soundings —
Burial at sea — Bermuda in sight — Sounding round the reefs —
St. George's — The Narroi/s — Pretty scenery — Reach the
anchorage in Grassy Bay — The naval yard — Historical sketch
of the Bermudas — Geolo^^ieal and botanical researches — Leave
Bermuda — Soundings — The Gulf Stream — Long Island to
Nova Scotia — In Halifax Harbour — The city and its suburbs
— Gold and coal mines — Halifax to Bermuda— In the Camber
— The sand glacier — The caves . 69

CHAPTER V.

BBRMTTDi TO THE AZORES, CAPE DE VERDE, ST. PAUL'S ROCKS,
FERNANDO NOUONHA, BAHIA, TRISTAN D'ACUNHA, AND THE OAPK
OF GOOD HOPE.

Leave Bermuda — Sounding round the reefs — Commence another
section across the Atlantic to the Azores — Anchor off Horta,

CONTENTS.

FAOI

Fayal — Fayal to St. Michael's — The gardens — Foliiige —
Scenery — Lake of the Seven Cities — Public buildings and
streets — Leave the Azores — Arrive at Madeira — Short stay
there in coiisequence of epidemic — Section commenced across
the Atlantic to the Coast of Africa — Palma, one of the Canary
Islands, in sight — Sounding and dredging — Cape de Verde
Islands in sight — Anchor off Porto Grande — Survey the
anchorage — The town and adjacent scenery — Leave for
Santiago — Anchor off Porto Praya — The town — Its natives —
Dredging for pink coral — Proceed towards the African coast —
Course altered for St. Paul's Rocks — The rocks in sight —
Made fast by a hawser — Crossing the Line — The old customs
— The southern constellations — Arrive at Fernando Noronha
— Disappointment at not being able to land for collecting
specimens — Sounding and dredging — Capo Antonio in sight
— Anchor off Bahia — The city — Excursions in the country —
Brazilian scenery — Foliage and vegetable products — Case of
yellow fever — Leave Bahia — Section commenced to Cape of
Good Hope — Island of Trinidad — Passage across the South
Atlantic — The drift nets — Incidents of the voyage — Sea-birds
— The soundings — Pick up the westerlies — Tristan d'Acunha
in sight — The settlement of Edinburgh — Squally weather —
Visit the Inaccessible Island — The Brothers Stoltenhoff:
their story — Table Mountain, Cape of Good Hope, in sight
—Anchor in Simon's Bay — Placed in quarantine ....

PAOK

:!R8,
lAPB

CHAPTER VL
Simon's bay (cape of good hope) to marion akd crozet islands,

TO KEUGUELEN LAND AND THE HEARD ISI aNDS, THE ANTARCTIC
REGIONS, AND TO MELBOURNE (AUSTRALIA).

Simon's Town — Visit to Cape Town— Discovery of diamonds —
From Simon's Bay to Table Bay, round the Cape of Storms —
Anchor in Table Bay — The ChallerKjer's ball — Return ball by
the residents — Return to Simon's Bay — Leave the Cape — The
Agulhas current— The "roaring forties "—Christmas Day
1873— Sighb and land on Marion Island— Vast numl)ers of
albatross and other sea-birds— Prince Edward's Island— Sight
the Crozet Islands — Passage to Kcrguelon Land —Arrival at
and description of the island — Leave Christmas Harbour —
The scenery — Anchor in Betsy Cove — From thence to Royal
Sound — Three Island Bay — Greenland Harbour — Cascade

CONTENTS.

FaOB

Reach — Hopeful Bay — Ehodes Harbour The seal fisheries —
Return to Christmas Harbour — Penguin rookeries — The Arch
Rock — Leaving Kerguelen for the south— The Heard Islands
— Description of the land — Leave the Heard Islands — The
first Antarctic iceberg — In the icy regions — The icebergs and
pack-ice— Birds— Cross the Antarctic Circle — Early explorers
of these inhospitable regions — Wilkes' Termination Land —
The Aurora Australis — An Antarctic gale — Enter the pack —
No signs of land — Leave the pack — Dredging — A second
gale — Shape our course for Australia — Trawling — The weather
— The last iceberg — Passage to Australia — Land in sight —
Arrive and anchor in Hobson's Bay, Victoria Ill

CHAPTER VII.

MELBOURNE (VICTOBIA) TO 8VDNEY (nEW SOUTH WALES) AND WEtlNGTON

(new ZEALAND).

Melbourne— The city and suburbs — Visit to Ballarat— The city
— Its gold mines — Melbourne to Sydney — First sight of
Sydney Heads — Arrive at Sydi. y, New South Wales — Anchor
in Farm Cove — Sydney Harbour — Picnic on Mount Victoria —
Zigzag on the Great Western Railway — The Blue Mountains,
and Valley of the Nepean — The city — Paramatta River —
Rhodes — The dredging picnic — Entertainments during our
stay — Early history of the colony — Leave Sydney — The stormy
weather — Return and anchor in Watson's Bay — Sydney to
New Zealand — Daily soundings — Rough weather — Anchor for
shelter in Port Hardy and Queen Charlotte Sound — Man
washed overboard and drowned— Sight Palliser Heads —
Anchor off Wellington— Port Nicholson. 147

CHArTER VIII.

WELLINGTON (nEW ZEALAND) TO FRIENDLY AND FIJI ISI-AND8, TO
THE NEW HEBRIDES GROUP, AND TO SOMERSET, OAPE YORK (QUEENS-
LAND, AUSTRALIA).

At Wellington— Results of the soundings — Formation of the
bottom — Description of the city — Australia and New Zealand
— Leave Wellington — Squally weather— Sight the Kermadec
Islands— Sounding and trawling — The Friendly Islands — Eoa
— Tongatabu — Anchor off Nukalofa— Tonga— The village:
its natives — Tapa : its manufacture — Captain Croker's attack
on Bea, and the result— Foliage and scenery— Leave Tonga-

CONTENTS.

PAGE

tabu— Passage to Fiji— Off Matuki— Anchor in Ngola Bay,
Kandavu— Kandavu to Levuka— Anchor off Levuka— Return
to Kandavu — Natives of the New Hebrides on board for
passage to Api — Survey Ngola Bay — The scenery — Tattooing —
Meke Meke— Leave Fiji for the New Hebrides — Off Api — The
natives land — The landing, and what was seen— Sounding and
dredging — On our way again— In the Coral Sea — Off the
Louisiade Archipelago — Raine Island — The Barrier Reefs —
Anchor off Bird Island — Arrive at Somerset, Cape York,
Queensland 178

CHAPTER IX. ^

CAPE YORK (AUSTRALIA) TO THE ARRU AND KH ISLANDS, TO BANDA,
AMBOYNA, AND TERNATE (MOLUCCA ISLANDS),

The settlement at Cape York — The aboriginal Australians — Foliage
and birds— Leave Somerset — Pass through Endeavour Straits
— Off Hammond Island — Ceremonies relating to the dead —
Australian graves— Off Booby Island — The post-office —
Passage to the Arru Islands — Anchor off Dobbo — Visit of the
Dutch officials — The settlement — Its natives — Forest scenery
— Birds of paradise — Leave Dobbo— Passage to the Kii
Islands — Anchor off Kii Doulan — The forests — Beautiful
birds and insects — Boat-building — The village and natives —
Leave the Kii Islands — Pretty scenery — The Molucca Islands
— Anchor off Banda — Gunong Api— Banda Neira — Nutmeg
plantation— Animals and birds found — Banda to Amboyna —
At Amboyna — The city — Get a supply of coal— Chinese burial-
places — The harbour — Arrival of the mail steamer — Leave
Amboyna— Cross the Equator (second time) — Pass the islands
of Bachian and Tawali — Tidore and Ternate in sight— The
charming scenery — Anchor off Ternate — The village — Club-
house—Sultan's palace — Mohammedan mosque — Visit the
spice plantations — Trees and fruits — Ball at Government
House 202

CHAPTER X.

TERNATE (MOLUCCA ISLANDS) TO SAMBOANQA, ILOILO, AND MANILLA
(PHILIPPINE islands), AND TO HONG KONG (CHINA).

Leave Ternate — Mindanao, Philippine Islands, in sight — Anchor off
Samboanga— The village — Hospitality of the Spanish officials

Ill

|! I

■III-

CONTENTS.

» Manilla HarboJ™The^^l°~>^^ '»' L»^o«-Ch«

« Hong Kong Harbour! Th/'^'r^™ "-d anchor
Uieatres-Their temples „.■!,, ""^-^'^ '•<»M™te, eho"
Captain Nares leayes for Fn., f'"-''''^'' "-o Wsten-

Enghehmail . . . . "^ '^ '^aving-Arrivai of the

CHAPTER XI.

PASS

228

HONG KONG (ohina) TO MANILLA ..

licave Honff Koni^ p„ ^^^^ guinea).

1- .into^ MS-rS^^^'^^JI'-^ht a dere,iet-To,

»Xrc™rn <?--- -«^at

the s„rro„nd.„g eo„™ry-rneh:r''oT r'"","- ^'^ ^^^ »

Proceed along ,ho West Coaft 4^ f 'he ™iage of Abaio-

fenery Visit tj. Island^ Biill' Vf ^^l^anga Jjhe

feave the Philippine Ish„r ™""an-Get a supply of coal—

Mand-New roltlXmi^H' '''"'^'' *' «'«
able /oafher-Sounding alTil'*™'™ ">China_Paf„™°
(th,rdtin,e)-Coursoa»iSfor'^«;»«-C«'» the EqnZ
-The scenery and proei»l nf ^""'^a-land in sight
Hmnboldt Bay, New S^ "' ^^P'o^tion-Anchor*"

316

OHAPTEE Xa.

""-aJAiUt nil

I» Humb ,dt _ """ ™ ™'°°'"'' ("Pr/ "'""" "^*»»')
thel:^ts-i7tfmpS laSr 'f P'*^™ "PWa^nce of
nabv^-Their vil^ "n f t' '"'"'-''"'""' "f"""
New Gniaea-Admiralty Island' ,? ^*™ "■« <=oast of

«-y„fthegr„„p_.earthfAlSr.L:^dsl'^^t;

CONTENTS.

Xlll

PAOI

shaped for the Ladrone Islands — Deepest sounding for the
cruise — Unsuccessful in reaching either Ladrone or Caroline
Islands — The Japan Islands in sight — Enter the Bay of Yedo
—Beautiful scenes— Anchor off Yokohama 261

CHAPTER XIIL

JAPAN.

Yokohama — The cemetery — Walks in the environs — Visit Tokio
(or Yedo), the eastern capital — Railway from Yokohama to
Yedo — Jinirikisha — Sojourn at Shiba — The suburbs of Yedo
— The streets and people — ^" Curio" shops — Lacquer-ware —
Street scenes — The great temple of Asakusa — Japanese
wrestlers — Leave Yokohama for Yokosuka— The Imperial
Arsenal — Challenger in dock — Secluded temple near Yokosuka
— Will Adams and wife's tomb — Visit Kamakura — The shrine
of Daibutsu, the great god of Japan — The tea-houses — Leave
for Yokohama — Yokohama to Kobe — The rough passage — Take
shelter in Oosima — Arrive at Kolx>— Anchor in Osaka Bay —
Hiogo, Kobe, and Osaka — Railway to Osaka— Its people and
streets— The great temple of Tonagee — Cruise in the inland ,
sea — The fine and picturesque scenery — Return to Kobe —
Passage to Yokohama — Dredging picnic in Yedo Bay — The
results 276

CHAPTER XIV.

JAPAN TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Leave Yokohama — Soundings of the U.S. ship Tuscarora — Our
course — Passing the meridian of 180° — Two Sundays in one
week — Sandwich Islands in sight — Anchor in Honolulu
Harbour — The city — Its streets— Business habits — American
influence — The King — Hawaiian Government — Parliament —
Taxation — The Nuanu Valley — Pretty scenes — Villa and other
residences — The Pali — Horsemanship — Visit to the fish-
market —The natives — Public buildings — Parliament House
— Hawaiian Hotel- -The churches — Queen's Hospital — Court-
house — lolani Palace — Levee at the Palace — King Kalakua
and suite visit the Challenger — Leave the Island of Oahu
— Squally passage to Hawaii — Arrive and anchor in Hilo
Bay — Volcanoes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa — The charm-
ing scenery — The Raiu])ow Falls — Bathing-places — Visit to

I''

I ;

XIV

CONTENTS.

the crater of Kilauea — Scenes on the road — The Halfway
House — Reach the crater — The first sight of the great cauldron
— The Volcano Hotel — Mauna Loa — Return to Hilo . , ,

CHAPTER XV.

SANDWICH ISLANDS TO SOCIETY ISLANDS.

Leave Hawaii, Sandwich Islands — Passage to the Society Islands
— Sounding and trawling — Cross the Equator (fourth time) —
Death of Dr. von Willemoes-Suhm — Biographical sketch —
Burial at sea— Tahiti in sight — Sounding and dredging outside
the reefs — Anchor in Papeite Harbour— The town and country
— Streets and natives — Ohalhnger's band on shore — Queen
Pomare and suite's visit to the Challenger — Afternoon dance-
Ride to Point Venus — The Broom Road— Charming scenes —
Natives met on the road — Tamarind-tree at Point Venus —
Waterfall — Hill fort of Fatauna —Fruits and plants— Along-
side Fare Ute — Coaling from the French depot — A day
outside the reefs — Dredging — The company on board — Swing
ship

t>AO>

304

326

CHAPTER XVI.

SOCIETY ISLANDS TO JUAN FERNANDEZ AND VALPARAISO (OHITil).

Leave Tahiti — Parting scenes — Westerly winds— Sounding and
trawling — Juan Fernandez in sight — Picturesque scenery-
Robinson Crusoe — Anchor in Cumlierland Bay — The tablet at
Crusoe's look-out— The settlement, past and present — Leave
Juan Fernandez — The run to Valparaiso — Arrival, and anchor
off the city — The city and harbour— Swinging ship for mag-
netic corrections 336

CHAPTER XVII.

VALPARAISO, THROUGH THE STRAITS OP MAGELLAN.

Leave Valparaiso — Sight Juan Fernandez— Sounding and
dredging — Strong head-winds — Fall in with the westerlies —
Sight Cape Callages and Cape Tres Montes— Anchor in Port
Otway — The Entrance Islands— Last day of 1875 — Leave Port
Otway — Passing through the Messier Channel — Anchor in
Hale Cove — The scenery — Foliage— Leave Hale Cove— Con-

CONTENTS.

tintiance of passage through the Messier Channel — Stop and
trawl off Middle Island — The pretty scenery — Anchor in Gray
Harbour— The excursions— Grass and trees on fire — The
grand effect at night — Leave Gray Harl)0ur — Messier Channel
and Indian Reach — The English Narrows — Mid-Channel
Island— The f ne scenery — Dredging off Sauraaurez Island —
Anchor in lort Grappler — The derelict Karnack — Weather
during our stay — Leave Port Grappler — Pass through Wide
Channel — Dredging, &c. — Anchor in Tom Bay— The excur-
sionists — Squally weather— Drag our anchors — Leave Tom
Bay — Conception Channel — Proposed survey in the Trinidad
Channel frustrated t'^rough the weather — Pass through the
Conception Channel — Soundings, &c., in the Innocent
Channel — The fine scenery — Anchor in Puerto Bueno Bay —
Pretty scenes — The weather — Leaving Puerto Bueno Bay —
The scenery and weather in passing through Sarmieuto
Channel— Sounding and dredging — The Zach Peninsula—
Anchor in Isthmus Bay — Leave Isthmus Bay — Passing
through Mayne Channel and Smyth's Channel— The fine
scenery— Enter the Straits of Magellan — Cape Pillar in sight
— Enter the picturesque port of Churruca- The Glaciers —
Leave Port Churruca — Pass through Crooked and English
Peaches — Off Fortescue Bay— The Fuegians — Off Cape
Froward — Anchor in Port Famine — The old Spanish settle-
ment in 1581 — The Chilian settlement of 1843— Leave Port
Famine and arrive at Sandy Point— The Chilian settlement-
Coal mines and gold workings — Leave Sandy Point and reach
the anchorage off Elizabeth Island — Exploring parties —
Finding fossil bones — Leave Elizabeth Island— Passing
through the Second and First Narrows— Off Gregory Bay —
Pass the Meridian of Cape Horn — Again in the Atlantic — Pass
Cape Virgin— Sounding and trawUug 346

CHAPTER XVIII.

CAPE VIRGIN TO FALKLAND ISLANDS AND MONTE VIDEO.

Our first haul in the Atlantic — The Jason Islands — Eddystone
Rock — Cape Pembroke, Falkland Islands, in sight — Enter Yo^i
William — Anchor off Stanley — The settlement — Climate —
Death of an able seaman by drowning — Leave for Por^j Louis
— Anchor in Berkley Bay — Funeral of our late s^upmate —
Return to Stanley — The stream of stones— Leaving the

XVI

CONTENTS.

PAOB

Falklands — Stormy weather — Sounding and trawling — Sight
the land — Oflf Lolx)s Island— Pass Maldonado Point — Steam-
ing up the Rio de la Plata— Anchor off Monte Video— The
city and suburbs 864

CHAPTER XIX.

MONTK VIDEO TO ASCENSION AND THE CAPE DB VERDE ISLANDS.

Leave Monte Video— Swinging ship — Sounding and dredging in
the River La Plata— A Pampara off the coast— Enter the cold
current — Its course — Completion of the voyage round the

-» world — What has been accomplished — Course shaped for
Ascension — South-east trades — Arrive at Ascension — The
garrison— George Town — Scenery — The Green Mountain —
Ascension turtle — Leave Ascension — Sounding — Cross the
Equator for the sixth time — The oppressive region of equa-
torial calms— Steaming through the Tropics — Sight the Cape
de Verde Islands— Arrive at Santiago— Anchor off Porto
Praya — Leave for St. Vincent — Anchor in Porto Grande —
Strong trade-winds 372

CHAPTER XX.

HOMEWARD BOUND. *

Leave St. Vincent — Head-winds and disagreeable weather — Sight
the coast of Spain — Anchor in Vigo Bay— The city— Channel
fleet — Leave for England — Off Cape Finisterre — Favourable
run across the Bay of Biscay — The English Channel — The
coast of England — Anchor at Spithead (Portsmouth) — Arrive
at Sheerness— Retrospect — Pay off at Chatham— Parting — At
home— The end 381

APPENDIX 885

pAom

864

1^.

.V .>!!

♦ •

ILLUSTRATIONS.

me.

I
I

r
e

le
i-

)e
to

372

\e
[e

le
It

381

885

View op St. Thomas, West Indies

Captain George S. Nares, R.N., F.R.S, . .

The City of Lisbon, from the Tagus .

Chemical Laboratory on Board the Challenqf.r

Naturalists' Work-room on Board the Challenger

Sounding and Dredging Apparatus

The King of Portugal on Board the Challenger

Plaza ConstituckSn, Santa Cruz, Teneriffe

Sounding Accumulator

'* Hydra" Sounding Machine
"Baillie" Sounding Machine

Valve Sounding Lead

Slip Water Bottle

" Buchanan's" Deep sea Water Bottle

" Miller-Casella" Deep-Sea Thermometer

Cup-lead

Deep-Sea Dreihse

Dredging Accumulator ....

Camber and Floating Dock, Bermuda .

Oceanic Sections (St. Thomas to Bermuda— Bermuda

TO New York — Halifax to Bermuda)
Natives of Santiago, Cape de Verde Islands
St. Paul's Rocks, North Atlantic
St. Paul's Rocks, from the East .
Peak op Fernando Noronha, South Atlantic
View op Tristan d'Acunha ....
Table Mountain, Cape of Good Hope .

face

PAotl.

Frontispiece.

Title- piuje
7
9
10
12
10
25
43
44
45
46
47
49
50
53
54
55
59

Toface 68

To face

78
85
86
88
110
111

ZVllJ

ILLUSTHATIONS.

PAQB

Christmas Harbour, Eerodelen Land . . . To face 124
The Challenger amongst the Iok in the Antarotio I

Eegions ^. . 148

Dredging on the Paramatta River, Sydney . , . 147

Sydney, from Pyrmont, Darling Harbour . , To/ace 160

Natives of Tongatabu, Friendly Islands .... 178

Street Architecture, Dobbo. Arru Islands .... 202

Natives of the Philippine Islands 228

Indian Village on the Banks of the River Pasio, I „ _

Manilla f. . ^4b

The Landing-place on Wild Island (Admiralty I „„,

Islands) ^ . . 2bl

Village in Humboldt Bay, New Guinea . . . To/ace 262

Village in Wild Island, Nares Harbour, Admiralty { „„„

Islands f »' ^^^

Ornaments of Dress, and Weapons, used by the ]

Natives of New Guinea and the Admiralty > „ 271

Islands j

Tomb of Will Adams and his Wife, near Yoko- ) (».„

suKA, Japan I' *

Women on Horseback, Honolulu, Sandwich Islands . . 304

Native Bamboo House, Tahiti, Society Islands . . . 326

Tamarind Tree at Point '^enus, Tahiti, Society \ rw, j, ooo

, \Toface 338

Islands \ •'

Customs Guard House, Valparaiso, Chili . ... 336

The Challenger in Cumberland Bay, Juan Fer- ) _ , „„»

> To face 339

NANDEZ \ •'

Mountains and Glaciers in Magellan Straits . . . 346

Cape Fboward, Straits of Magellan 364

The City of Monte Video, looking towards the I o«o

Habboub I * *

. 146

147

»ce 160
. 178
. 202
. 228

246
261

271

276

304
326

fsms^ti

TOROIM I O-BELFORD BROTHEKS

ISO

140

160 180 16

140 120

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^.-*^^^-

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,-•,■•'■ New """■"..'"■

C H A RT

Showing the track of

H. M. S, CHALLENGER
in iHl'l :y l-.'i H: (>.

"^ I

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lao tin

I(iO

IRO

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CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

INTRODU( TIOX.

Not many years ago, in fact witliiri the memory of
the present generation, our l<!;o\vlo(1ge oF anything
below the ocean's surface was exiiemely indefinite
and obscure. It was even asserted that the specific
gravity of the water at considerable depths would be
so great that any heavy weight thrown into the sea
must be arrested, and remain suspended for ever. It
was argued that no animal life could possibly exist in
the great depths of the ocean ; and only some fifteen
years ago doubts were entertained whether some star-
fish brought up by a line from 1200 fathoms had not
attached themselves to the line on its downwaid or
upward course, and the very nature and habits of
the animal were so modified as to suit this view.

There can be no doubt that the invention of ocean
telegraphy first stimulated tiie great desire as well as
the necessity for a knowledge of the contour of the
bed of the ocean. To insure success it was essential
to know the configuration and the soundings of

Hfio

CBUTSE OF II.M.S. CHALLENGEE.

the sea, the shape and character of its bed, the
nature of the creatures and plants that haunt its
depths, the force and set of its currents, the figure
and dimensions of the great ocean basins, and the
temperature of the water at various depths.

Interesting as were the results of the various early
sounding expeditions, it was not until 1868 that any-
thing like a systematic examination of the ocean's
bed was undertaken in connection with natural
history and physical geography. In that year the
Royal Society succeeded in getting H.M.S. Lightning
placed at their disposal for some six weeks ; and
tliough for so brief a period, the results were such as
to give great encouragement for further investiga-
tion. Although no great depth of water was obtained
in sounding, dredging was effected in G50 fathoms,
a greater depth than had hitherto been attempted.
The next year (1869) the Council of the Royal
Society were successful in securing H.M.S. Porcujnne^
which was fitted out for a more extended explora-
tion of the deep sea ; and the experience of the pre-
vious year was brought to bear on the improvement
of the means for the purpose in view.

The first cruise was between the latitudes of Cape
Clear and Gal way, on the west coast of Ireland, where
a series of soundings and dredgings were effected in
1500 fathoms (more than double that of the previous
year), and many creatures of great interest obtained.

The second part of this cruise extended to the

'^^f>

INTRODUCTION.

rw.v

south and west coast of Ireland, where a deptli of
2400 fathoms was reached with successful results ;
and the third part extended over some portion of the
survey of the previous year (between the coast of
Scotland and the Faroe Islands). On the termination
of this voyage (taking into account the time occupied
and the extent of the investigations), the cruise of
the Porcupine was considered to have done more to
advance our knowledge of the pliysical condition of
the ocean than had been achieved by any former
expedition that ever left our shores.

In 1870 the Porcupine was again engaged in the
service of the Council of the Royal Society, and pro-
ceeded at first in a south-westerly direction towards
the farthest point to which the survey extended the
year before, and afterwards to the coast of Portugal,
and to Gibraltar, where a vast quantity of interesting
and important data was obtained. In addition to
the sounding and dredging, thermometric observa-
tions were constantly taken, proving even more
successful than those obtained during the previous
voyages. The results showed unsuspected variations
in the deep-sea temperature, the existence of a
general oceanic circulation, and the presence of life
at the greatest depths. The scientific and practical
importance of the facts revealed by these short and
imperfect inquiries was such as to render their con-
tinuance a matter of national concern : so much so
that the Council of the Royal Society brought before

B 2

i I

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CEALLENGEB.

the Government a project for extended investigation,
which was eventually approved of, and a committee
appointed to prepare the plans of operation.

It was suggested that a vessel should be fitted out
for a three or four years' cruise, during which time
sounding, dredging, thermometric observation, and
cnemical examination of sea-water should be carried
on continuously, with a view to a more perfect
knowledge of the physical and biological conditions
of the great ocean basins, of the direction and
velocity of the great drifts and currents, of the
faunae of the deep water, and of the zoology and
botany of those portions of the globe which are at
present comparatively unknown.

H.M.S. Challenger, a spar-decked corvette of 2000
tons displacement and 400 horse-power, was se-
lected to carry out these recommendations ; and
the necessary alterations to fit her for the service
on which she was to be employed were made in the
dockyard at Sheerness. With the exception of two
64-pounders, all the guns on the main deck were re-
moved, so as to obtain the required accommodation.
In addition to cabins for the Captain, Commander,
and Director of the Scientific Staff, there were
spacious compartments for surveying operations and
analysing purposes, a laboratory for the chemist, and
a studio for the photographer, all fitted with every
appliance which skill and science could suggest. On
the upper deck stood an 18-horse double-cylinder

INTEODUCTION.

engine, with shafting and drums for heaving in
the dr'^dging and sounding-Hnes, extending entirely
across the ship ; and on the after-part of the deck, be-
sides the usual standard and other compasses, was the
Fox dipping-circle, with which it was intended to make
an extensive daily series of magnetic observations.

From the Hydrographic Department at the Ad-
miralty a code of instructions was issued, regulating
the daily routine to be carried out whenever the
weather and other circumstances permitted. The
C/>allenger, after visiting Lisbon, G-ibraltar, and
Madeira, was to proceed across the Atlantic, through
the trade-wind region, to the Virgin Islands ; thence
to Bermuda, onward to the coast of North America ;
and eastward again to the Azores, and thence to
the Canaries, Cape de Verde, and to the equatorial
regions — which were to be thoroughly investigated
— westward to St. Paul's Rocks, Fernando de No-
ronha, and to the coast of Brazil. After leaving
Bahia, it was desirable that the island of Trinidad,
Martin Vaz, and Tristan d'Acunha should be visited
on the passage across the South Atlantic to the Cape
of Good Hope, which it was expected would be
reached at the close of 1873.

From the Cape it was proposed to examine the
small groups of islands of Marion and Crozet, and to
visit Kerguelen Land; from which the expedition
was directed to proceed as far south as safety would
permit in the neighbourhood of the Antarctic ice-

CBTJISE OF H.MS. CHALLENGER.

barrier, and after a short survey to sail for Melbourne,
Sydney, and the ports of New Zealand. If time and
other circumstances would permit, it was intended
again to proceed south, for the purpose of visiting the
sm.all islands of Campbell, Macquarie, Auckland, &c. ;
then again north, sailing to Friendly and Fiji Islands,
onward through the Coral Sea ; visiting the south
coast of New Guinea, passing Torres Straits and the
Arafura Sea, calling at Timor and Macassar, thence
shaping our course through the Celebes and Sulu
Seas to Manilla, which would probably be reached in
November 1874.

From Manilla the Challenger was directed to sail
eastward into the Pacific, calling at those little-fre-
quented regions, the Pelew Islands, New Britain, New
Ireland, and the Solomon Group, en route for Japan.

After leaving Japan, a course was to be taken
across the Northern Pacific to Vancouver's Island, and
thence southward through the eastern trough of the
great ocean to Valparaiso, calling at Easter Island
and ir'ala y Gomez. On leaving Valparaiso, it was
proposed to return to the Atlantic through the
Straits of Magellan, and by Rio Janeiro and St.
Helena to England, which would probably be reached
early in 1876. The globe will thus have been cir-
cumnavigated, and the great oceans traversed from
north to south, and from east to west. How far this
programme was carried out will be seen by the
following chapters.

"'^fe*.'*

-3s.|-**i«*'^'

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'r^^'Z- =-'-*^t^*

.-^-fl -4-->^^^--~^^S^

.35-.-'"--

THE CITY OP LISBON, FROM THE TAGU8.

5t.
id

ir-
im

iis
le

CHAPTER I.

England to Lisbon and Gibiialtar.

H.M S. Chalhnrjer commissioned at Sheerness — Objects of the voyage
—Equipment and fittings— Leave Sheerness— The stormy pass-
age — Arrive at Portsmouth — Commencement of the voyage —
Leaving England — Weather in the Channel — Across the Bay of
Biscay— First sounding and dredging— The results — Land in
sight — Enter the Tagus — Anchor off the city of Lisbon — Visit
the shore — Sight-seeing — Church at Belem — Churches, gardens,
and palaces — Early history of Portugal — Visit of King Luiz to the
C7j(///e«//er— Leave Lisbon — Dredging oiT Cape St. Vincent— First
trial with the trawl — Venus's flower-baskets — Description — Trawl-
ing near Gibraltar — Obtain specimens of the Umbellularia — Their
description — Pass Cape Trafalgar— Rock of Gibraltar in sight —
Arrive, and secure alongside the mole — Sights of Gibraltar —
Galleries through the rocks — Stalactite caves — Gibraltar as a
military fortress — Ceremony of opening and closing the gates —
The naval establishment — The town — Its churches — Garrison
library — The Alameda — Neutral Ground — Campa and San Koque.

H.M.S. Challenger was placed in commission at
Sheerness, on the 15th November 1872, for the

CRUISE OF KM.S. CnALLENGER.

! i

purpose of proceeding upon a voyage of scientific
discovery and deep-sea exploration in the Atlantic,
Indian, and Pacific Oceans, descending into the
Southern or Antarctic Ocean as far as the ice would
permit. For some months previous to the date of
her commission she had been in the hands of the
dockyard officials, undergoing great changes both
in equipment and internal accommodation, so as to
fit her with every possible means for furthering the
great work in hand. For the use of the scientific
staff, of which Professor Wyville Thomson was the
director, there was built an ample and compact
work-room, containing numerous drawers and recep-
tacles fitted with bottles and jars for holding spe-
cimens of organic ocean life, and a well-stocked
library of professional books in various languages.

Here also were provided numerous instruments for
dissection and microscopic observation, long tubes for
preserving r^re specimens, harpoons, and many in-
genious devices for entrapping and securing larger
game than the dredge can possibly furnish.

On the opposite side of the deck, and somewhat
farther forward, was placed the chemical laboratory
for the purpose of analysing and testing the sea-
water obtained from the different depths : here were
ranged retorts, stills, tubes of all sizes, hydrometers,
thermometers, blow-pipes — in fact, all the usual
paraphernaha found in laboratories ; chemicals in
drawers, and jars in racks ; all secured from accide^^l

f'JQUlPMENTS ON liOAIUh

from tiie rolling of thu sliip by many ingenious
devices.

The photographic quarters faced the laboratory,
and consisted of a dark room and studio, where were
ranged the bottles, chemicals, and apparatus required
by the operator.

CHKMICAL LABOKATORY ON BOARD THE CIIALl ENGER.

A large aquarium was near at hand ; while the
water bottles and sounding-machines were secured
close by in racks against the ship's side.

On large reels were coils of telegraph insulated
wire, for the purpose of obtaining the temperature
at different depths by galvanic influence.

CRUISE OF U.M.S, CHALLENGER.

Secondly, but not less in importance to the duties of"
the scientific staft", were those of the naval surveying
officers, at the head of whom was Captain Gr. S. Nares,
distinguished as a surveyor for years past. For tlie
use of the officers under his direction there was, oppo-
site the naturahsts' department, a spacious chart-room,
for the purpose of laying down surveys and con-

NATUUALTSTS' WORK-ROOM ON BOARD TOE CHALLENGER.

structing diagrams and sections of the ocean's bed
over which the vessel travelled on her vovaffe round
the world.

The direction of this great expedition was given
into hands thoroughly w^ell qualified for the respon-
sibilities imposed upon them.

The naval officers were selected, for some special

LEAVING ENGLAND.

ISiiiiii

acquirements, by the Admiralty ; and the staff of
civilian naturalists and physicists wore nominated by
a specially appointed committee of the Royal Society,
who also furnished instructions and suggestions for
the work.

On the 7th December, 1872, after having swung
sliip for adjustment of compasses and taking niagnetic
observations, H.M.S. Challenger left Sheerness, en-
countering very stormy weather on her passage to
Portsmouth, which was not reached until the 11th;
here a fortnight was spent completing supplies.
On the 21st December all was pronounced ready,
and the most important surveying ex[)edition which
had ever sailed from any country left Portsmouth
Harbour. As the day advanced, in our progress
down Channel, we fell in with miserable, stormy
weather, which was our accompaniment for some
time. Thus we left our native shores. The sen-
sations were indeed painful ; parting from home,
with all its pleasing associations, and cherished re-
collections, had a powerful influence, and gave rise
to melancholy impressions, happily I'elieved by the
comforting hope that we should one day be permitted
to return to all those so dear to us.

The weather continuing of the same wild and
stormy character as we crossed the Bay of Biscay,
it was not until the 30th December, nine days after
leaving England, that an opportunity presented it-
self of commencing scientific work ; when we were

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

about 40 miles west of Vigo Bay, our first sound-
ing was obtained at a depth of 1125 fathoms, the

Fiff.b

SOUNDING AND DREDGING API \RATU8.

Fig. 1. Sounding machinos. Fig. 2. Slip water-bottle. Fig. 3. Deep-sea thermometer.
Fig. 4. The drodge. Fig. 6. Cup sounding lead.

bottom being Globigerina ooze. After this tlie
dredge was put over and lowered to the bottom,

TEE FIEST SOUNDING AND DBEDGINO.

sound-
is, the

the
■om.

wliere it was allowed to remain some hours, the
vessel slowly drifting onward. On hauling in it
was found turned upside-down, and in a lovely
tangle. A second attempt was made, and a
few specimens were brought nj"), one a rare fish,
and some others of scientific value, enough to
compensate for the disappointment of the first
failure.

Dredging was resumed on the 2nd Jnnuary, but
with no better results, for the dredge fouled the
bottom, and eventually the rope parted and some
3000 fathoms were lost.

The next day we steamed in for the land, the
weather being much finer as we approached the coast,
passing on our way between the rocky islands of the
Burlings and Cape Carvoeiro on the mnin land, sight-
ing the village of Peniche, with its numerous wind-
mills and small houses scattered about, which have
a very pleasing efl'ect. We passed sufficiently near
to get a capital view of the dark, frowning cliffs
which sweep round the sandy beach, named by the
residents the Praira Formosa, or Beautiful Beacli,
from its shelving sands.

Happily our troubles were over for a time.
Clearing Cape Roca and the beautiful heights of
Cintra, we steamed slowly up the Tngus ; past the
straggling suburb of Lisbon, with its many-coloured
villas scatt-ered over the slopes; ])ast the wonderful
castle of Belem, with its elegant proportions and rich

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER

ornaments, recording the skill and the refined taste
of" tlie old master masons.

Ahout mid-day we moored in the Tagus, off the
capital, and all who desired started for a run on
shore. Some went to Cintra ; while others spent
the time in seeing what was most interesting in the
city and its immediate neighbourhood, or in resting
after the knocking about experienced in our passage
from England.

There are many buildings and places of interest to
be seen ; perhaps the monastery and church of Belem,
of Gothic-Moresque architecture, is worth mention-
ing ; no one could pass it without gazing on the
beautiful porch, which is rich beyond description in
carvings. Up to the very roof of the church, every
pinnacle and buttress, and even the flat portions of
the wall, are encrusted with ornaments.

On entering, the interior is of a most charming
nature. There seems no excess of ornament, and
the delicate shafts of pale grey marble support a
wonderfully carved and fretted Gothic roof, with all
the effective airiness of Moorish architecture. Service
hai)])ened to be proceeding during my visit. The
church was cool and dim, and the clear sweet voices
of the choristers rose and fell along the aisle, and
seemed to linger in the roof among the sculptured
palm-leaves.

The high altar, with its lighted candles and vases
of flowers, aiA the rich robes of the officiating priests,

INCIDENTS IN THE HISTORY OF PORTUGAL. 15

•mmg
and
ort n
li all
'vice
The
oice.s
and
ured

•fe-r

formed a warm patch of colour strongly in contrast
with the cold simplicity of the grey marble.

The monastery of Santa Maria — commonly called
the monastery of St. Jeronimo, from its having been
occu[)ied by monks of that order — is in connection
with the church, and was founded with it in 14-99 by
King Manoel the Fortunate, on the spot where Vasco
da Gama embarked on his first eastern voyage, in
connnemoration of the discovery of the Indies.

Churches, gardens, and palaces are scattered about,
idl well worthy of a visit; for there was a time
Avhen this country was amongst the foremost in the
Morld. When in the full tide of its prosperous
colonisation (a.d. 1500), it was from this port that
the great Yasco da Gama sailed to the Cape of
Good Hope, wdiich had been previously discovered
])y Bartholomeu Dias in 1487 ; and on a second
occasion, visited India. Lope Luares Francisco de
Almeida followed with ships and men, conquered
the Maldives, and established factories in Ceylon,
Malacca, Sumatra, when the greater portion of the
Eastern Archipelago was in the hands of the Portu-
guese. Trading relations were opened up with Pegu
and BtTmah, China and Japan, such as have only
recently been granted us. In fact, no flag but theirs
could fly along the whole African coast. No ship,
witliout their permission, dared anchor in any harbour
from Gibraltar to Abyssinia, from Ormuz to Siam.
-seven years — that is, at the end of the

fifty-

CliUISE OF II. M.S. CHALLENGER.

reign of King John III., in 1557 — began the great
change. Misgovernment, tyranny, and the work of
the Jesuits and the Inquisition strangled the rising
fortune of this Httle kingdom. From that day up to
the present, matters have seemingly been going from
bad to worse, and now, stripped of nearly all its
colonies, Portugal is indeed but a wreck of what it
was in the sixteenth century, when England could
not have disputed the possession of an inch of ground
with her for a week, England now wears the mantle
Portugal in her blindness and bigotry let fall.

Before we left Lisbon, his Majesty King Luiz I.,
who is known to be very fond of natural history,
tScc, did us the honour to visit the ship, and remained
on board for some considerable time, showing the
greatest interest in the captures which had been
made on the passage from England.

Other matters were at the same time fully ex-
plained by Captain Nares and Professor Thomson,
sufficient to enable him to thoroughly comprehend
the object of the Expedition, also showing him each
department in full working order. After luncheon,
and previous to his departure, a group photograph
was taken of his Majesty and the officers of the
Ex})edition.

We were detained here until the 12th by a
heavy gale from the routh-west. On its moderating,
we steamed out of the Tagus, and the next day
dredged in 470 fathoms oft' Setubal. The bottom was

TS».-

. the great
be work of

the rising
t day lip to
going from
arly all its
of wliat it
^land could
1 of ground

the mantle
fall.

Qg Luiz I.,
ral history,
id remained
powing the
had been

fully ex-
Thomson,

omprehend
him each
luncheon,

)hotograph
ers of the

2th by a

oderating,

next day

lottom was

•J

■■A

■J

•A

TRA WLING NEAR GIBRALTAR.

of tlie ordinary grey ooze of the Atlantic. The gale
had blown over, and we experienced light easterly and
nortlierly winds, which enabled us to get a few suc-
cessful hauls with the dredge, and soundings between
the coast in the neighbourhood of Lisbon and the
deep water to the south-west in the direction of
Madeira : the inchne was found to slope gently
down to 1475 fathoms, with a muddy bottom at
31 miles distant from the shore.

When a little to the south of Cape St. Vincent,
it was proposed to try the common trawl, and one
with a 15-foot beam was lowered in 600 fathoms; it
went down all right, and, after being towed for some
hours, was drawn in just as easily as the dredge.

There was no lack of living things, strange-look-
ing fish with their eyes blown nearly out of their
head by the expansion of the air in their air-blad-
ders, while entangled amongst the meshes were mauv
starfish and delicate zoophytes shining with a vivid
phosphorescent light. On another occasion of using
the trawl, an object of very great interest was
brought to light, and aflbrded an opportunity of
seeing one of those highly prized and beautiful spe-
cimens of the Euplectella, or Yenus's flower-basket,
alive.* It is an object most beautiful in form and
structure, consisting of a slightly curved conical tube
8 or 10 inches in height, contracted beneath to a
blunt point and expanded above to the width of about

• Professor Thomson, in ' Good Words.*

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

2 inches. The walls are of tlie most delicate tissue,
recalling spun glass, and resembling finest transparent
lace, or rather Shetland wool work. The lower end
is surrounded by an upturned fringe of long, lustrous,
glassy fibres, and the wide end, after giving off from
its edge a fluted lacy frill, is closed by a delicate lid of
open network. Hitherto these beautiful objects have
only been obtained from the seas of the Philippine
Islands, where they live buried in the mud at the
depth of 100 fathoms; so those obtained then were
considered a most interesting addition to the fauna
of Europe.

Our last cast of the trawl before reaching Gibraltar
was to the depth of 2125 fathoms; the result was
very satisfactory. A number of things came up — star-
fish mainly, and holothurids ; but among them was
one sjoecies of great interest, historical as well as zoo-
logical, the clustered sea-polyp, Umhellularia Groen-
landica; twelve gigantic alcyonarian polyps, each with
eight long fringed arras terminating in a close cluster
on a stem 3 feet high. Two specimens of this fine
species were brought from the coast of Greenland
early in the last century ; somehow these were
lost, and for a century the animal was never seen.
A year or two since two were taken by the Swedish
scientific expedition, and this obtained by us must
be considered as the third specimen of this rare
marine animal.

On the evening of the 17th January we passed

THE SIGHTS OF GIBTtALTAIt,

ate tissue,
ansparetit
lower end
J, lustrous,
g off from
icate lid of
)jects have
Philippine
lud at the
then were
the fauna

r Gibraltar
result was
up — star-
them was
ell as zoo-
ria Groen-
I, each with
ose cluster
f this fine
reenland
lese were
jver seen.
le Swedish
us must
this rare

jQ passed

Cape Trafalgar, and sighted the light of Tarifa. At
suni'ise the next morning we were close under tlie
\\Q2k of Gibraltar, rising barren grey and gloomy
before us. Shortly after we came to anchor, and later
in the day proceeded alongside the New Mole to
complete with coal, &c.

This remarkable promontory, tlie Calpe of the
ancients, constituted of old, with the opposite Abyla,
or Apes' Hill, the boundary of the then known
world.

Gibraltar was strongly fortified when it belonged
to Spain, but its greatest and grandest works date
from the Treaty of Utrecht (1713), when it became
attached to England. Stupendous and incomparable
are the works which since that period have been
executed on it. Excellent and well-kept roads lead
to the principal fortifications, which begiij at an
elevation of only a few hundred yards above the
town.

The galleries hewn in the solid rock, forming
a kind of casemate, have been constructed at an im-
mense expense of labour and money. Their extent
is over a mile in length ; and besides these galleries,
passages run for miles in the interior or the Rock,
affording the garrison a thoroughly protected con-
nection with all points that might be at any time
threatened.

The grandest and most imposing of these marvel-
lous excavations are the Queen's Gallery and St.

c 2

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CnALLENGER.

George's Hall, which, according to carved inscrip-
tions, were mostly begun and completed between the
years 1783 and 1789. At the period of our visit
(1873), there were about 1800 guns mounted on
the different fortifications. From the fortification a
narrow and rather steep path leads to the Signal
Station, at an elevation of 1300 feet above the level
of the sea, where a sergeant of the Royal Artillery
is placed in charge. From this point, an excellent
view is obtained of the blue waters of the Mediterra-
nean, and the many charming Spanish villages on
the western shore of the bay.

On the road down are to be seen some remarkable
calcareous caves. That of St. Michael's is situated
at a height of 800 feet above sea-level. It contains
beautiful stalactite formations, and seems to be of con-
siderable extent. It is somewhat difiicult to get about
in its intricacies, but one is well repaid for the trouble.
On the south-east side of the Rock is another of these
cavos, dedicated to St. Martin ; it is smaller, but the
stalactites are of a purer whiteness. Here we dis-
covered a large accumulation of sand, recent shells,
and many heaps of bones and teeth of large her-
bivorous animals which possibly existed here ages
ago, when Gibraltar, instead of having its present
salubrious climate, was covered with icy peaks and
glacial boulders.

Gibraltar has little save its barracks, military store-
houses, and fortifications to attract strangers ; in fact.

■ t

ed in sen p-
)etween the
Df our visit
lounted on
rtification a
the Signal
/e the level
i\ Artillery
,n excellent
i Mediterra-
villages on

remarkable
is situated
It contains
) be of con-
get about
he trouble,
er of these
er, but the
re we dis-
ent shells,
large her-
here ages
ts present
peaks and

[tary store-
[8 ; in fact,

THE TOWN.

within the gates it may be considered merely a large
garrison.

The opening and closing of the gates is daily canied
out with a certain amount of ceremony, as if in a state
of siege. Immediately after sunrise the sergeant of
the guard procures the keys of tlie gates, which have
been deposited at the Grovernor's the night before,
wlien, accompanied by a guard with rifles and fixed
bayonets, lie has the gates opened, and the drawbridge
lowered; and throughout the day visitors are free to
come and go ; those from Spanish possessions having
a {)ass which is " vised."

Every evening, soon after sunset, the ceremony is
repeated. The sergeant, accompanied by his escort,
cari'ying a heavy bunch of keys, mardies to the
various town gates, the bridges are drawn up, the
gates closed, bolted, and locked, and from this hour
none can enter or leave the town, for the keys are
returned to the Governor.

The Naval Yard is a compact and excellent esta-
blishment, where defects to the hull and machinery
of vessels on this part of the station are well attended
to. Stores of all descriptions are to be obtained, and
large quantities of coal, some 10,000 or 15,000 tons,
are usually on hand.

The town, which is built on terraces on the side of
the Rock, gives shelter to some 15,000 souls, consist-
ing of Spaniards, English, Italians, Portuguese, Moors,
Turks, Greeks, and Jews ; indeed, a mixture of races,

CnUISE OF lUr.S. CfTAlLENGEn.

! 1

; M

I ,!

1 ■

customs, and mfinners, such as can scarcely be found
at. any otlier place in Europe.

Tliere are several churches, chapels, and syna-
gogues, a couple of excellent hotels, and numbers of
other houses for refreshment ; shops for the sale of
Moorish curiosities, Maltese lace and filigree jewel-
lery, cigars and tobacco. Being a free port, tliei'e
are no custom duties (except on wines and spirits),
consequently most things are so cheap as to induce
snuigglers to carry on an extensive trade with Spain,
which persists in continuing to maintain her pro-
hibitory duties on English goods. T must not omit
to mention the Garrison Library, nor the kindness
and cordiality of the military, who invariably, on
the arrival of a man-of-war, take the earliest oppor-
tunity of acquainting the officers that during their
stay in port they are to consider theniJ^elves honorary
members. Many a pleasant hour may be passed in
this resort, with its thousands of volumes ; for, al-
though amongst this vast collection there are many
rare and costly works, especially of ancient Spanish
literature, all the newest and most important books
and magazines of the day are being constantly added^
Add to these late newspapers, periodicals, and daily
telegrams from England, and some notion may be
formed of the value of the Garrison Library at
Gibraltar. It was founded in 1793 by Captain
Drinkwater, and is one of the finest and most im-
posing buildings on the Rock.

!( i^ff

NEUTRAL GUOUND.

y be found

and syna-
umbers of
:he sale of
^ree jewel-
port, tliore
id spirits),
to induce
^^ith Spain,
I her pro-
; not omit
3 kindness
iriably, on
iest 023por-
ring their
I honorary
passed in
; for, al-
are many
b Spanish
mt books
ly added*
md daily
mav be
brary at
Captain
ost im-

There are several pleasant walks about the town,
but perhaps the best is in the Alameda, or Eliott
Garden, situated at the south end; it is prettily
l;\id out, and in commemoration of the heroic de-
fender. General p]liott (afterwards Lord Heathfield), a
l)ronze bust on a column has been elected to his me-
mory. Plants of different sorts — semi-tropical cacti,
dwarf palm, Sj)anish broom, the yellow blossoms of
which are mixed with the varied colours of fuchsia,
orange, and oleanders — render it a most charming
promenade, and during the fine evenings military
band performances take place, when it is usually
tlirongcd with visitors. Continuing our walk farther
south, we passed the dockyard convict establishment,
and barracks, and on the lowest terrace, which juts
farthest into the s'^a, came upon the lighthouse on
the celebrated Europa Point.

On the north end of the Rock is the sandy neck of
land called by the Spaniards " El Istnio," and by the
English the "Neutral Ground." It runs between
the Mediterranean and the Bay, and is about 1^
mile in length and 2700 feet in width. This plain,
which is not more than 10 feet above the level of
the sea, owes its origin to the formation of a dune
in the rocky bed of the ocean. Strong easterly
gales seem by degrees to have accumulated the sand
on this shallow run of the sea, which formerly sepa-
rated Gibraltar from Spain. Until quite recently
the inhabitants were almost entirely dependent for

Si4

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

lit

■water on that collected from rain in tanks. Artesian
wells, however, have been sunk on the Neutral
Ground, and now yield an extensive supply of
excellent, pure water.

On the east side of the Rock, near Catalan Bay,
there is a sand formatioii similar to that on the Neu-
tral Ground ; tMs deposit has attained the enormous
height of 1000 feet. There is no road round this
side, for a portion of the sand has been excavated
at the point where the isthmus joins the Rock, and
the water of the bay flows in so as to leave only a
narrow low d vke of firm ground.

The adjaceirt Spanish settlements of Campamiento
and San Roque are much resorted to by excursionists
ftom Gibraltar, and during the summer months are
selected by numerous families for a prolonged stay.
However little pleasure or interest a ride over this
arid and sandy plain ii^ords, when once arrived at
Campo, the rider enjoys a most charming prospect,
as there is probably no other point from which the
•isolated Rock appears more grand or picturesque
than fom this neat little village.

:ti

Artesian
e Neutral
supply of

balan Bay,

1 the Neu-
enormous

round this
excavated

Rock, and

ave only a

npamiento

cursionists

lonths are

ged stay.

over tliis

rrived at

prospect,

^hich the

tcturesque

I'l.AZA CONSTITUCI6N, SANTA CRUZ, TENEUIFFE.

CHAPTER II.

Gibraltar to Madeira and Tenbkiife (Canai:/ Islands)

Loavi' Gibraltar — Daily sounding and trawling— .Sight Porto Santo
Its discovery and early history— Arrive and anchor in Funchal
Bay, Madeira— Its early history— First impressions— The gardens
buildings, conveyances, dress— Leave Madeira— Pass the Desertas
—Capo Anaga— Teneriffe sighted— The Peak— Anchor off Santa
Cruz — The buildings and streets— Scenery in the country— Ascent
of the Peak— Cruising amongst the group— Sounding and dredging
—Ball at the English Consulate— Naval incidents connected with
IVneriflFe.

While at Gibraltar, a new survey was made of the
inner mole, the ship's chronometers rated, and mag-
netic observations obtained. On 26th January we
left the anchorage and proceeded round Europa Point,
and as the day was well advanced, hastened on

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLFNGEB.

so as to get through the Straits before dark. After
passing the Pilhirs of Hercules, the wind freshened
considerably, and the intention of making a short
detour from our course so as to visit Tangiers had to
be abandoned. Early next morning we pasced the,
most southerly point of Europe, and as we steamed
on, we gradually lost sight of tlie coast, which was
l)eautifully illuminated by the rising sun, affordino- ns
the last glimpse of the Old World.

A westerly course was now shajied to continue the
line of soundings we had dropped off Lisbon. Deep
water, with a soft oozy bottom, was found to exist,
favourable for telegraph cables ; and day by day, as
the weather moderated, so the dredging and trawling
became more successful, and a number of strange new
forms of animal life were found ; some wondrous
formation of sea-urchins and lily-stars, some clustered
sea-polyp of singular beauty and of groat scientific
interest. Thus a week |)assed, and, on the 2nd F*!)-
ruary, Porto Santo was sighted — a banen, rocky spot,
but, as its name (Holy Port) indicates, viewed In- its
first tempest-tossed discoverers with thankful hearts,
when in their attempt to circumnavigate Africa
they were driven out to sea and on the point of
perishing.

The island, when first discovered (1410), was,
according to some accounts, inhabited, according to
others, desolate ; however, the voyagers were so de-
lighted with the discovery that it was resolved to d'»-

"&
-n

I -
• 1 1

STGHT PORTO SANTO.

iirk. After
d freshened
ng a short
^iers had to
paseed the,
we steamed
, which was
affording us

continue the

ibon. Deep

tid to exist,

f by day, as

nd trawh'ni^

5trang'e new

J wondrous

ae chistered

it scientific

e 2nd lAl.-

rocky spot,

.'wed l)v its

:ful hearts,

te A frica

e point ot

|iin), wns,
jordino* to
jre so de-
lved to d 'Si-

continue the search along the African coast, and to
return to Portugal with their present acquisition of
knowledge, and with the evidences of their discovery.
Prince Henry, who had been the means of fitting
out the expedition, was so delighted with the ac-
count of this first discovery that he immediately
planned a scheme of colonisation. Vessels left Lisbon
with a number of labourers fitted out for settling, who
had been persuaded to go by tempting inducements,
and who carried with them a varied stock of domestic
animals, and all kinds of grains and plants suitable
for cultivation. This expedition was placed in charge
of Bartholonieu Perestrello, who was also appointed
iTovernor of the island. Thus was the father-in-law
of Columbus engaged in the important pioneer work
of discovery. He was the first coloniser and planter
in newly discovered western ocean lands.

But Perestrello failed in the cultivation, and after
three years abandoned the governorship which had
been vested in him. Some short time afterwards,
Columbus and his wife Philippa came here to reside,
in order to get a living out of the wild property
bequeathed to him by his father-in-law. But he
gained nothing by it, unless, perhaps, some increase
of knowledge, and the birth of his son Diego in
Porto Santo.

We remained for a short time sounding and
dredging in the vicinity of Poi.o Santo, which
appears, on nearing it, hke two islands. As we

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

l:i

passed to the eastward, the southern coast pre-
sented a most conspicuous and pleasing aspect,
giving an air to the place which probably would
hardly be borne out on landing or making a closer
acquaintance.

TJie next morning we were off the anchorage in
the Bay of Funchal (Madeira). This island was
discovered soon after Porto Santo, and from its
dense forests at that time received th:' Portuguese
name for wood. The lovely and fertile island had
no doubt a people and name of its own, but they
have passed away, and the footsteps of the civilised
discoverer have obliterated every trace of the ab-
origines. The first act of the adventurers was to
set fire to the dense forests, which fed a conflagration
that was not fairly extinguished for many years ;
and when the virgin soil of the land was fully
exposed, colonisation was successfully established.

This colony of Madeira was the nursery of two
notable things of momentous consequence in the
history of all subsequently discovered and colonised
western countries. One was the introduction into
this island of some growing shoots of a plant obtained
by Prince Henry in Sicily, but originally brought
from South-Eastern Asia, and spoken of by an old
Biblical prophet as the "sweet cane from a far
country." Here, then, was organised and established
tlie first sugar-cane plantation, and such was its
success that after about five years' experience, 60,000

'fv

ANCHOR IN FUNCHAL BAT.

arobas of sugar were sent to Lisbon. This formed
only twenty per cent, of the annual produce of the
island, and was reserved as the especial revenue of
the Military Order of Christ, of which Prince Henry
was grand master.

The other notable matter was the labour by which
this sugar-cane was so abundantly produced. It was
found from the first that Portuguese agriculturists
would not voluntarily exile themselves, so recourse
was had to the Negroes, who were imported in large
numbers from Africa. These Negroes, who had, as
we know, been toiling involuntarily ages upon ages
in Asia, were now for the first time employed by
Europeans in extracting wealth out of the new lands
of the West.

On the morning of February 3rd we arrived and
anchored in Funchal Bay, just to tlie south of the
Loo Rock, the only place of shelter at this season
of the year, the open roadstead affording but little
protection against the prevailing winds. The weather
was fortunately very fine, and we were enabled to
coal in safety. Coming in from the monotonous
sea, the first impressions of Funchal are delight-
ful and striking, with its luxuriant gardens smiling
with gorgeous flowers, and its mountain-sides cul-
tivated almost to their summits with beautiful plants.
Nature exhibits herself here with such varied
charms that imagination can scarcely picture a
lovelier scene.

CBUISE OF EM.S. CIIALLENGEB.

I had a ramble on shore through some of the
gardens, and although flowers were not exactly in
full bloom, yet some of the most beautiful plants were
in their highest development. Amongst others were
seen sweet-smelling rose-trees, blooming oleanders,
aloes more than 30 feet high, the shining green
foliage of the camellia, chestnuts, cypress, plane-trees,
Brazilian pine, laurels, myrtles, odoriferous magnolias,
fuchsias, together with bananas, sugar-cane, coffee
shrubs, mangroves, pomegranates, tamarinds, pine-
apples, and gigantic dragon-trees. One must travel a
long way indeed before meeting with prettier scenery,
or a place that will surpass in fragrance and
loveliness the floral beauty of this island ; and yet
it is jnly within five or six days' run of our cold
shores of England.

The product which has made the name of Madeira
famous and familiar is its wine, which is now pro-
duced in great quantities ; this and the cultivation
of the sugar-cane form its principal trade.

The public buildings offer little to attract notice ; the
churches are insignificant, and even the Cathedral, a
building in the basilica style, is in no way remarkable
otherwise than by the innumerable garlands and
flowers, offerings of pious devotees.

The charms of beautiful walks in the most en-
chanting neighbourhood enhance the pleasantness of
the climate of Funclial, so much resorted to by in-
valids, for within a short distance of the landing-place

*;('::-;/'

^i.i;i

MADEIRA.

are splendid avenues of massive oaks and magnificent
plane-trees, forming delightful promenades, with re-
pose and shade, under the dense foliage of their
wide-spreading branches.

The existing conveyances are either horses, ham-
mocks, sedan-chairs, or sledges drawn by oxen. No
stranger should miss the diversion of travelling down
from the Nossa Senhora de Monti, where one has a
slide down the mountain-side, above 1800 feet, into
the heart of the town, on small douljle-seated wooden
sledges. These curious vehicles are guided in their
descent with admirable skill by a couple of natives,
and, notwithstanding the velocity with which they
rus'i down the incline, it is very rare that even a
sligi t accident is heard of. These sledging parties,
which are inexpensive, constitute the favourite amuse-
ment for visitors.

The dress of tho natives is extremely simple, and,
as the climate is subject to such slight extremes, their
winter and summei attire is much the same, and
generally consists of a pair of trousers of some light
material, a shirt, and linen jacket ; shoes are a rare
exce[)tion. As a head-dress they wear a curiously
shaped small cloth cap, terminating in an erect,
pointed tail from 5 to 6 Indies long. This seems to be
a remnant of a turbaned head-covering worn foimerly
bv the inhabitants of the African coast, with whom
the early settlers carried on the slave trade.

The women, like the men, are not overburdened

'in

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

; :i

with apparel, and are mostly employed as labourers
in the vineyards and gardens.

During the two days of our stay in Funchal the
weather was very favourable for coaling, which was
satisfactorily finished, and on the 5th February we
proceeded out of th^ bay, and, with a favouring breeze,
were soon oil" the " Desertas," a group of barren rocks
about 11 miles S.E. of Madeira. These rocks appear
to be only frequented by fishermen, who repair thither
for collecting orchil. Tlie northernmost isle is £, high
pyramidal rock, vTen taken for a sail, which it much
resembles. The weather continuing very favourable,
the next day we sounded in 2000 fathoms, and early
the following morning the brilliant light on Cape
Anaga (Teneriffe) was descried ahead. As daylight
dawned, we steamed in for the land, and the high,
precipitous rocks, all bleak and bare, here and there
broken by deep and rugged clefts, rose in bold out-
line before us. Somewhat later, as the clouds cleared,
the celebrated Peak was in sight, a grand and
solitary object towering in seeming desolation ; for
although there is a certain amount of fertility on its
sides, it was not apparent as we approached it. By
7.30 A.M. we anchored off the town of Santa Cruz,
Teneriffe. After a visit from the health officers, all
were free for a run on shore. There is little at
Santa Cruz itself to interest a stranger ; the houses
are poor structures, the streets narrow, and there
are no public buildings with any pretension to taste

SCENERY IN THE COUNTBT.

,s labourers

i'unchal the
which was
ebruary we
ring breeze,
)arreii rocks
ocks appear
spair tbither
sle is £; higli
licb it much
' favonral)le,
IS, and early
ht on Cape
As daylight
d the high,
e and there
in bold out-
iuds cleared,
grand and
lation ; for
tility on its
ed it. By
anta Cruz,
officers, all
is little at
the houses
and there
on to taste

or elegance. Nevertheless one is repaid for a stroll
in the country, where the scenery is remarkably
wild and impressive — deep ravines, from which
mountainous rocks rise abruptly void of every trace
of vegetation except a few cacti and other hardy
plants.

There is a sort of grandeur in this volcanic scenery
— in the scorched craters of these enormous rocks,
ribbed at the sides, rising into a variety of shapes.
Now all is quiet, no traces of life, no appearance
of vegetation — all is arid, dry, and parched ; while
away to the southward can just be discerned a fine
picture of woodland scenery, arresting the eye at
once by its great contrast, and, as it were, com-
pelling one to admire the extreme beauty afforded
by the charming landscape. Here and there were
noticed inclosures of cacti, used in rearing the
cochineal, which, with the castor-oil plant, appears to
be extensively produced for exportation. Our stay
at first was only for two days, during which a
party of naturalists landed, and made an attempt
to ascend the famous Peak (12,180 feet). They had
a pleasant time of it, reaching 9000 feet, where
they found the temperature of the air at night
intensely cold. It was too early in the season for
natural history work ; still collections geological,
botanical, ard zoological were made.

While the naturalists were away, the vessel cruised
about, and obtained a iseries of dredgings, serial

CBUISE OF n.M.8. CHALLENOEB.

ilii

i|i

if ■III 1

1.1

temperatures and soundings, between Teneriffe and
Palma, and past G-omera and Hierro. Considerable
deptbs were found, varying from 200 to 1700
fathoms ; as a rule discovering a dark sandy bottom
and dead shells.

Three days had thus been spent when we again
anchored off Santa Cruz, and, as we were to leave
the next day, H. B. Majesty's Consul issued in-
vitations to a ball in honour of the visit of the
Challenger, The weather was fine, and a large party
started from the ship, arriving at the consulate in
good time to find all the available Spanish beauty
there to meet us. The ball was a very capital one,
but the great drawback was our being unable to
converse fluently with our partners when dancing.
For all that the eye, whose language is so deep and
expressive, the organ which the Spanish ladies culti-
vate to such perfection, did all. What the heart felt
and the tongue could not utter the eye interpreted.
The company was not, however, entirely Spanish.
The Consul's daughter, and Mrs. Grattan, the
American Consul's daughter, and an English lady,
married to the Minister of Marine, were there to
interpret our most pressing wishes and entertain us
with their company.

It was not until the early hours of the following
morning that the pleasant gathering broke up, and
we all retraced our way to the landing-place to get
on board.

INCIDENTS CONNECTED WITH TENERIFFE. 35

The town of Santa Cruz is famous in our naval
history. On the 20th April 1657, Admiral Robert
Blake attacked and utterly destroyed the Spanish
fleet, strongly placed under the batteries, and, aided
by a sudden shift of the wind, was able to draw his
ships off with comparatively little loss.

It was here also that Nelson (July 24, 1797) under-
took his expedition against Teneriffe, which, although
unsuccessful and disastrous, displayed great heroism
and bravery. The two flags captured on this oc-
casion are retained in the church, and the inhabitants
still bear in mind the attack and repulse relating to
their capture.

K ili'T

1 U{

I» !

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

CHAPTER III.

Tenerifpk (Canary Islands) to St. Thomas (West Indies).

Leaving Teneriffe — Sight of the Peak — Commence section across the
Atlantic — Daily soundings and trawlings — The results — Configu-
ration of the bottom — In the Tropics — The officers of the shiii —
Life on board — Our daily doings — Description of the mode of
sounding— The apparatus and appliances used — Taking serial
temperatures — Dredging and trawling — Island of Sombrero in
sight — Arrive and anchor at St. Thomas.

As the evening of the 14th of February dawned, we
left the bay of Santa Cruz, dispensing with steam
when well clear of the land. The bright moonlight
afforded us a capital view of the Peak, which frowned
down in all its grandeur, clearly and sharply defined,
and its head hoary with many a winter's snow. A
fine favouring breeze was with us all night : at dawn
of the following morning the island of Teneriffe was
looming far on the distant horizon.

From the present may be said to commence the
regular work of the Expedition. A section was now
to be carried right across the Atlantic from Teneriffe
to Sombrero (a small island forming one of a group
of the Yirgin Islands), a distance of about 2700
miles ; and along this line over twenty stations were
fixed on at which it was decided to make careful

■^
*

DAILY SOUNDINGS AND TRAWLINGS.

iction across the
esults — Configu-
rs of the shij:) —
of the mode of
[—Taking serial
of Sombrero in

dawned, we
with steam
it moonlight
lich frowned
rply defined,
s snow. A
ht : at dawn
?eneriffe was

observations as to depth, temperature, and nature of
the bottom. These stoppages were about 100 miles
apart, and each day, when the weather permitted,
soundings and dredgings took place. For the first
250 miles the bottom of the ocean was found to be
nearly leve' at a depth of about 2000 fathoms, con-
sisting, for the most part, of the Globigerina ooze of
the Atlantic. On proceeding some 50 miles farther to
the westward, we sounded in 1500 fathoms, identically
on the top of a ridge, where, after dredging for some
time, a quantity of dead, hard, white coral, together
with several beautiful specimens of sponge attached
to its branches, was obtained. From this position
soundings made the next day showed that the
bottom sank rapidly until reaching a depth of
2700 and 2950 fathoms, from the first of which
a few living specimens of starfish, annelids, &c.,
were obtained in the dredge ; but the most re-
markable fact was that with the increasing depth
there was a gradual change in the character of the
bottom.

On the 26th February, in latitude 23° 23' north,
longitude 35° 10' west, being about 1600 miles from
Sombrero Island, we sounded in 3150 fathoms. This
\vas the greatest depth as yet met with, the ma-
terial obtained from the bottom being quite new to
science. For several days after, the dredge con-
tinued to bring up a dark chocolate or red clay,
scarcely containing a trace of organic matter, and

(il

liti>l

I ill

CRUISE OF HM.S. CHALLENGEB,

entirely devoid of animal life. This newly dis-
covered formation going on at the bottom of the
sea appeared, as was found afterwards, to extend for
some 350 miles, when the depth decreased gradually
until 2000 fathoms was obtained, and the dredge
brought up animal life. The nature of the bottom
changed gradually into the usual Atlantic ooze,
altering again in a few days, as the depth increased
to 3000 fathoms, when the mud lost all trace of
carbonate of lime and resumed its red colour, which
continued to withio 1.00 miles of Sombrero. The
analysis of this red deposit proved it to be almost a
pure clay (a silicate of alumina and the oxide of
iron, with a small portion of manganese). From
these results it was inferred that the circumstances
which lead to the deposition of this bottom were
the cause of its being so unfavourable to the develop-
ment of species; and, although it has been since
proved that anim;*! life is possible at all depths, it has
been found, after reaching, say, 1000 fathoms, that its
abundance greatly diminishes. It was in one of these
dredgings we were successful in obtaining a beau-
tiful blind Crustacea, perfectly transparent, which,
although found at such great depths, does not appear
to suffer from this peculiarity either in development
01- colour, nature having supplied claws and feelers
to make up for the suppression of eyes, the sense of
vision being useless in its normal state of perpetual
darkness.

THE OFFICERS OF THE SHIP,

When about two-thirde of the distance between the
Canary Islands and the West Indies, we had reached
the Tropics, and were fairly in the region of the trade
winds, of which we took advantage ; still we occa-
sionally " hove-to," for the purpose of sounding and
dredging; on its conclusion again standing on our
course, with a steady breeze.

And now, while enjoying such pleasant weather, I
take the opportunity of introducing my reader to the
officers who had been appointed, and who were for
the most part our companions through the various
incidents of the cruise.

The naval officers had been selected by the Ad-
miralty, in most cases, for some special acquirement ;
and the staff of civilian naturalists and physicists had
been nominated by a specially appointed committee oi
the Royal Society.

Captain George S. Nares, F.R.8. &c., was ap-
pointed in command of the Expedition. His name
is familiar to the public from his surve3ring services,
his standard works on seamanship, and, recently,
from his having been in command of the late Arctic
Expedition. From his previous scientific training,
he was eminently fitted for the responsibilities im-
posed upon him. His second was Commander J.
F. L. P. Maclear, also well known in the scientific
world, and who has seen much service in various parts
of the world; on him devolved the entire charge of the
magnetic department. Lieutenants Pelham Aldrich,

TTf

I '

Hi 1ii^''!j

CItUlSE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

A. C. Bromley, and G. R. Betliel, were each specially
qualified in surveying or magnetic work. Staff
Commander Tizard, a surveyor of high reputation,
was in charge (under Captain Nares) of the whole
of the navigating and hydrographic duties, assented
by Sub-Lieutenants Havagal and Swire. The
hygiene was in charge of Staff Surgeons Crosbie
and G. Maclean.

The engineering department, on which so much of
the success of the Expedition dep3nde<^l, was under
the direction of J. H. Ferguson, as chief, assisted
by W. J. J. Spry, A. J. Allen, W. A. Howlett, and
W. J. Abbott; and the machinery, on the return of
the vessel after her long cruise, was as efficient as
when she started. Paymaster R. R. Richard, Assist-
ant Paymaster J. Hynes, with Sub-Lieutenants Lord
George G. Campbell, A. F. Balfour, A. Channer,
and H. E. Harston, were the other officers.

Professor Sir Charles Wyville Thomson, F.R.S. &c.,
had been selected as director of the civilian scientific
staff, and (as has since been proved) none could
have been found better qualified to fill the important
position. With the practical ex{)erience he ha<l
already gained in the Porcupirw and Lujlitnimj^ he
was enabled to utilise and work out all the subjects
that came within his reach during our more ex-
tended cruise. His assistants were H. N. Moseley,
M.A., Dr. von Willemiies-Suhm, and J. Murray,
who undertook the naturalist and botanical de-

LIFE ON BOARD.

jh specially
)rk. Staff
reputation,
the whole
ies, assir>tL'd
irire. The
ms Crosbie

so much of

was under

ief, assisted

owlett, and

e return of

efficient as

ard, Assist-

lants Lord

Channer,

F.R.S. &c.,
II scientific
lone could

important
30 he had
jlitniiuj^ he
10 subjects

more ox-

. Moselov,

Murray,

tinical de-

partment. J. Y. Buchanan, M.A., acted as physicist
and chemist, and J. J. Wild, as artist and secretary.
This staff of specially selected scientists, each dis-
tinguished for some particular attainment in his
profession, completed the list.

Life on board ship, the varied incidents at sea, all
tend to rouse feelings and sensations which are re-
served alone for those whoso business is on the great
waters. To those constituting the scientific staff',
the routine, especially of a man-of-war, was entirely
different from th.it they had hitherto enjoyed on
shore ; and unfortunately their initiation to tlie ever
varying scenes was under most unfavourable cir-
cumstances as regards the weather. At first the
etiquette and usages of naval every-day life seemed
particularly vexatious and annoying; but after a
while, when fine weather again set in, and the sea-
sickness had been got over, one and all perceived, to
a certain extent, the necessity of order. Scrul)bino-,
washing, and holystoning of the decks, cleaning
brass and wood work, mustering at ([uarters and
divisions, are all measures which tend to enforce
the disci[iline so essential to good government.

Existence in the limited sj)ace of a ship, which is
frequently for months completely isolated from the
outer woild, is i

j)ecuj

interesting to those

unacquainted with the sea that I may bo permitted
to n>ako a few remarks as to our dailv doings.

' '1

From the hour of four o'clock in tl

le morning, as

CJRUISE OF H.M.8. OHALLENOEB.

soon as the watch has been mustered, the bustle and
activity begin, lasting throughout the day and even
to the hour when night reminds one of sleep. Pumps
are manned, and water is splashed over decks in all
directions ; and, although apparently unnecessary at
times, yet it is absolutely essential to the preservation
of the health and comfort of those on board. By six
o'clock the washing is nearly finished, when all ham-
mocks are piped up and stowed ; it is now time for
breakfast, consisting of cocoa and biscuit. The hands
dress in the rig of the day, and all preparations are
made for sounding and dredging. Sails are furled,
and steam is ready, for it is essential to keep the
vessel's head on to the sea during these operations.
Before commencing, however, an account of how the
soundings and dredgings are obtained, it might be as
well to specify the sort of information that is required
from us. Formerly the actual depth of the ocean
only was required, and in extreme depths it was con-
sidered a great feat to be able to bring up a specimen
of the bottom. Our requirements and means of ob-
taining information have so rapidly advanced that we
not only obtain the sounding and bring up specimens,
but we also ascertain the temperature of the sea
at every 100 fathoms, from the surface to the bottom,
and at the same time bring up samples of the deep
water.

It has been foimd that in all deep soundings it is
absolutely necessary to use steam power. No trust-

DESCRIPTION OF THE MODE OF SOUNDING. 43

worthy results can be ohtained from a ship under
sail, as even in the calmest weather the heave of the
sea, or the surface current, is sufficient to drift the
ship in a very short time a considerable distance from
the place where the lead was originally let go. It is
thus impossible to obtain a perpendicular sounding ;
besides the time intervals between the 100-fathom
marks are upset, these time intervals being the only
means of telling when the lead has reached the bottom.

The first thing, therefore, to be done is to shorten
and furl all sail, and brin^ the ship head to wind,
regulating the speed in such a manner as to avoid
forcing her through the water.

The sounding apparatus is then got ready. A
block is placed on the main-yard a fio. i.
little outside the boom iron, and a
whip rove through it to trice up the
accumulator (Fig. 1). These accu-
mulators are india-rubber bands, f inch
in diameter and 3 feet in length.
They are capable of stretching 17 feet,
when they each exert a pressure of
70 lbs. Twenty pairs of these accu-
mulators have been found 8uffici(3nt
for most of the soundings obtained, as
they are strong enough to withstand
the strain of the weights on the lead line without
being too strong to give readily with the motion
of the ship ; their greatest use being to keep the

CliUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Fig. 2.

sudden jerks of the ship's motion from bringing too
great a strain on the lead line. At the bottom of
the accumulators, which are kept separated from
each other by being passed through holes in a
circular disk of wood, a 9-inch block is
hooked, and through this block the lead
line is rove. The end of the line is then
secured to the sounding-rod, to which is
attached the number of iron weights re-
quited to sink it rapidly. A sliort distance
above tiie rod the slip water-bottle is fas-
tened, and above that a deep-sea thermo-
meter.

Two descriptions of sounding-rods have
been in use during the cruise. The one
first employed is known as the *' Hydra "
rod (Fig. 2), and consists of a brass tube
1^ inch in diameter, and 42 inches in
length, having at its extreme end a but-
terfly valve, and at its top a sliding rod 30
inches in length. On the upper part of
this rod is a small stud, with a spring
reaching to its head (when there Js no pres-
sure on it) ; to this rod tlie weights are attached,
and, by means of the spring, disengjiged, when at the
bottom, in the following manner.

The sinkers are of cast iron, and average one hun-
dredweight ench. They are cylindrical inform, having
a hole through \\w centre ; through this hole the rod is

APPARATUS AND APPLIANCES USED.

placed,.!iiid as many weights are put on as are deemed
necessary (generally speaking, one for every thou-
sand fathoms). At the bottom of the last weight a
small iron ring is rove on the rod, to which is at-
tached a piece of iron wire about 12 teet pig.s.
in length. The bight of the wire is passed
over the i)rojection, and the rod being
lifted, the weights rest on the ring, which
is supported by the wire sling. The strain
of the weights falls on the stud, thus
pushing back the spring; and as long as
the [)ressure of the weights continues on
the ring at the bottom, the wire remains in
its place. When the weight of the sinkers
is relaxed, by their reaching and resting on
the bottom, the spring pushes the wire off,
and the rod, being hauled up by the line,
unreeves itself from the weights, leaving
them at the bottom.

The second sounding-rod (Fig. 3), which
was principally used, is the invention of Staff
Commander Baillie, R.N., and consists, as
in the *' Hydra." of a cylindrical rod, of
3 inches in diameter and some 48 inches in length.
The iron sinkers are rove on the rod in a similar
manner to the former, but the means of disengaging
and the safety in lowering are mon; to be depended
on. The bight of th(^ wire supporting the weights
is placed over a sliding " kefch." On the rod reitch-

(

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CUALLENGER.

Fio. 4.

irig Pviid resting on the bottom, the " ketch !' drops
over a conical end, and thus releases the weights,
which remain at the bottom. The tube being larger
than that of the " Hydra," it brings up a greater
quantity of sample from the bottom.

These rods are only employed when the depths
are considered to be over 1500 fathom*^ ;
for less depths a conical lead weight (Fig. 4)
is "sed, vhich has fitted to its bottom an
iroi< J >der, 3 inches in diameter, with
butte valves at its base for securing

samples of the v)cean bed.

The line used for sounding is 1 inch in
circumferenco, and is specially prepared for
this service (having a breaking strain of
14 cwt.) ; it is marked at every 25 fathoms,
the 25- and 75-fathom marks being white,
the 50-fathom marks red, and the 100-
fathom marks blue. Worsted is used to
mark the line, and the number of hundreds
are distinguished by tucking the. worsted
under and over the strands of the line, one tuck for
each hundred fathoms. This leaves the line per-
fectly smooth ; no additional friction is caused in
the water, nor is there any danger of the marks of
the line fouling in the blocks through which it
passes. The line is kept on reels (3000 fathoms on
each) conveniently situated near the sounding-plat-
form, from which it is led through a block to the

APPARATUS AND APPLIANCES USED. 47

ch !' drops

e weights,

ling larger

a greater

the depths
I fathom*^ ;
ht(Fig.4)
bottom an
leter, with
r securing

1 inch in

epared for

strain of

5 fathoms,

ing white,

the 100-

is used to

hundreds

e worsted

e tuck for

line per-

caused in

marks of

which it

thorns on

ding-plat-

k to the

The slip water-bottle (Fig. 5) consists of a brass

1t'

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CnALLENGEB.

rod witli three radiating ribs to strengtlien it, and to
act as a guide for a brass cylinder which incloses the
water. At the bottom, and halfway down the radiating
ribs, are two finely ground seatings, and the brass
cylinder is so arranged that its upper and lower sur-
faces fit with great accuracy on these seatings, thus
inclosing anything that may happen to be between
them. At the top of the rod is a brass tumbler, with
a slit in it ; to this tumbler is attached a lanyard to
fasten the bottle to the sounding line, and over the
slit of the tumbler is placed the bight of a piece of
small line (the ends of which are secured to the
cylinder), by which the cylinder is kept suspended
above the seating while the bottle is descending, and
being in this position quite clear of the radiating
ribs, it allows the water to pass freely through it.

Directly the strain is released on the sounding
line above, through the bottle reaching the bottom,
the tumbler falls over, pushing off the line that sus-
pends the cylinder, leaving it free to fall on the two
seatings, and thus effectually inclosing a specimen of
the bottom water. A tap is arranged at the lower
end to facilitate the emptying of the bottle when
again on board.

Other bottles (Fig. 6), but of different construction,
for cairying out similar results were employed with
equal success; they consisted usually of a brass tube
about 3 inches in diameter and from 2 to 3 feet in
length, fitted at either end with stop-cocks connected

APPARATUS AND APPLIANCES USED.

n it, and to-
ncloses the
le radiating
i the brass
I lower sur-
itings, thus
be between
mbler, with
I, lanyard to
id over the
f a piece of
ired to the
b suspended
ending, and
le radiating
'ough it.
le sounding
ihe bottom,
[le that sus-
on the two
ipecimen of
It the lower
ottle when

)nstruction,
i)loyed with

brass tube
Ito 3 feet in

connected

to each other b}^ means of a rod on whicli is a move-
able float. When lowered to any desired depth,
both cocks being open to allow the column of water
to freely pass through, immediately the motion of

Fio. 6.

lowering is reversed and hoisting commenced, the
flat float being pressed on by the weight of water
above it, shuts both cocks simultaneously, and so
incloses a specimen of the water at that particular
depth.

£!

60 CRUISE OF ILM.S. CHALLENGER.

The thermometers (Fig. 7) used to ascertain the
temperature at the bottom or at any intermediate
depth are self-adjusting maximum and minimum
instruments, known as Miller-Casella tliermometers,
from the names of their inventor and maker, and

Fio. 7.

UurmonifUr

Outer Caring

are so constructed as to resist the pressure of the
water at very considerable depths. They consist of
a curved tube with a bulb at eacli end, one of
which is filled with creosote, the expansion and
contraction of which gives the temperature. The

APPAItATllS AND APPLIANCES USED.

creosote acts on a small quantity of mercury in tlie
tube, which rises or falls as the creosote expands or
contracts.

In each of the tubes above the mercury is a small
metallic index, having a hair attached to it, which,
pressing against the glass tube, acts as a s])riiig, and
keeps the index in its place, so as to be read off and
recorded.

It is evident that the bull) of the thermoincter
would be exposed to the pressure of the water as
well as the temperature ; to prevent this, an additional
bulb is blown outside the bulb of the thermometer;
this is partially filled with spirit, which is boiled
before it is hermetically closed, so that it contains
in addition to the spirit some spirit vapour. The
pressure now acts on the outer and not on the
inner bulb, whicli is therefore only affected by
temperature. These thermometers are tested by
hydraulic pressure, from two to three tons on the
square inch, and are considered trustworthy up to
3000 fathoms.

Or commencing the operations of sounding, the
weighted sounding-rod, the water-bottle, and the
tlierniometers are suspended to the line, and lowered
from the sounding-bridge by reversing the engine
for 500 fatl )ms ; the line is then let go and allowed
to run out freely. As it runs out, the exact time of
eacli 100-fathom mark entering the water is regis-
tered and set down in its appropriate column in a

CltUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER

book provided for that purpose. Tht;se intervals
e^radually increase in duration as more line is run
out, the weights having to overcome the friction
of the line in the water, which becomes greater
with the amount run out. The intervals are found,
however, to extend in regular proportion, so that
when four minutes are taken up by one interval,
the weights have readied the bottom, or a depth of
between 2000 or 3000 fathoms has been obtained.

The time intervals having informed us that the
weights are at the bottom, the line is brought to the
engine, and hove in, gently at first, but faster as the
quantity out decreases; care being taken to keep the
ship still in her })()sition over the line, as, if allowed
to fall off, the line lias not only to bear its own fric-
tion, and that of the attached n)d, water-bottle, and
thermometers, but also the additional friction of the
drift of the ship. Eventually the rod, water-bottle,
and thermometers reach the surface, the thermometer
is carefully read and legistered, the water-bottle is
sent down io the laboratory, where the specific gra-
vity of the water is taken, and the contents of the
iiounding-rod are examined to ascertain the nature of
thv. bottom, after which they are dried and bottled.

The soundings having been obtained, and the line
hove in, the next ))roceeding is to register the tem-
perature of the ocean from the surface to the bottom.
This is done by attaching thermometers with equal
spaces between them to the sounding-line ; a cup-lead

i:i

APPARATUS AND APPfJAXCKS USED.

(Fig. 8) of 1 cwt. in atUiclit'd to kucj) it perj)eiulicular,
and immediately above a tliermometer is placed ; tlie
line is then eased out to the first 100 fathoms, wjien
a second thermometer is secured, and the line low-
ered to 200 fathoms, a thcrmoiueter being placed at
each lOO-t'athom mark until six or eight luive been
attached and the line run out to the required depth,
say to 1500 fathoms ; it is now belayed and allowed
to remain for a few minutes. The thermnnieters
register the temperatures of the (bfTercnt Fk;. h.
de[)ths at which they are submerged. The
line is now hove in, and as each thermo-
meter reaches the sounding-platform, it is
removed, and the results are carefully read
off. The tcnjpciatuie is then taken from
the surface to 700 fathoms in the same man-
ner. Sometimes it is considered necessjiry
to obtain temperatures at every 10 fathoms
from the surface to 200 fathoms, and at
every 50 fathoms to 000 or 700 fathoms ;
this, of course, considerably increases the time occu-
[lied in obtaining these observations.

When the wlnJe of the soundings and temperature
observations have been obtained between any tw(»
places, a plan is drawn showing the section of tlie
bottom and isothermal lines at different depths.

Vov the purpose of dredging in (U;o[) watm*, Thr(;e
ditVe rent-sized ro|)es are supplied, of 2, 2.\, and
3 incheH in circumference, i^^ach rope is spliced ho

i tl

CnUISE OF lUlS. CUALLKNiitnt.

aH to form one continuous length of 3000 to 4000
fathoms, and is kept coiled away in a large rack,
conveniently situated for u«e. Tiiese lines are
marked at each 100 fathoms in the same manner as
the sounding-line.

Pia. 9.

The dredges (Fig. 0) Hnp|)lied consisted of an iron
frame, and 'vere of thnni sizi»H, 5, 4, and 3 feet in
length, and from 15 to inches in width. The iron
Irame, to which was secured the bag or net, is in-
tended to skim tlie surface of the bottom, and the

APPAIiAniS AND APPLIANCES USED.

Fig. 10.

net to C5it(;li siiid njtain all tiuit iiii«^lit ooiiie in its
way ; at the l»()tt(nn of this bag a miinbor of heinpeii
s\val)s wero gciiLTally secured so as to sweep aloug
and bring up small animal life,
coral, sponges, <fec. These dredges
after a time were set aside and le-
])lacod by the ordinary beam trawl
used in shallow water around our
own coast.

The operation of dredging or
trawling, like that of sounding, is
eairied on from the mainyard, the
dredge rope being rove through an
iron block which is attached to tlu;
accumulator in the same manner as
described for sounding.

For this operation it is neces-
sary to use a inuch larger accu-
mulator (Fig. 10), consisting of as
many as seventy or eighty india-
rubber bands, .3 feet in length,
ca})able of stn'tching to nearly 20
feet when a fo^ce of 2 J tons is
exerted (that is, ecpial to the
breaking strain of the 2^-inch
rope)

The accumulator is secured to
th(' masthead by mesinsof a long j)endant, arrl hauled
out, or eased in, by a tju^kle a the end of the yard,

* \%

i ■

CRUISE OF U.M.S. CHALLENGER.

™ "

aH may be recjuired. The dredge or trawl beiii{^
ready to tj^o over, in triced u\> clear of the platform
and liarled out hv the tackle until well clear of the
veHHciB side; the rope is then let go and allowed to
run cut freely, the shi[) steiiinin<j;' slowly ahead ; from
2^ tt) 3 hours are usually reijuired to sink the dredge
ii; this manner, wlntn the de^^lh is about 2500 fathoniH.
When it is once down, which is eai-ily found by expe-
rience, the vessel is allowed to drift, or steams slowly
on for some houi's, the acciuuidator illustrating by the
expansion and contiaction how the dredge is being
dragged over the ineijualities of the bottom. Should
it foul anvihing, the strain of the vessel immediately
stretches the accumulators to their utmost, the line is
at once eased out to prevent it carrying away, and
various plans are tried to release it. If all turns
out favourable, when it has been on the bottom a
sufficient time, the rope is brought to the deck-engine
and the dredge hove u{). When it appears above the
surface, there is usually great excitement amongst
the " IMiilos," who are ever on the alerf th forceps,
bottles, and jars, to secure the utiwary crel^.ure8 who
may by chance have found their way into the net.
Such a sight when it is really inboard ; here we
have no lack of wonderful things, strange-looking
fish, delicate alcyonarian /(K)phytes, sea-urchins, stivr-
fish, besides shell, mud, ikc.

During tiie time of sounding and dredging, the
flhip'h cn'upany not spoeially employed cNy these

.■t.--,-a.-c,i'jT?«&«aii»i-

DAILY IIFJ: ON liOAlW.

o?^''»;iiioiiH liave ))oep. Miu.steiW at division, nt^oii'lel
pravers, ami eii^*aj^ud during tiie forenoon in their
various and requisite duties. At noon, dinner is
piped, and although consisting, as it usually does, of
either salt junk and duff, or fat, greasy salt pork
and pea soup, there are few men liealthier than
the sailor. Grog-time comes next (when half a gill
of rum with two parts of water is supplied to each
man), and, with the hour for smoking, constitutes
a pleasant break in the day. Duty is resunie<l again
at 1.30, and various drills occupy the afternoon until
4.30, when all liands assemhle at their station, with
rifle, cutlass, and pistol for inspection by their divi-
fiionjil officer.

The inspection over (we will presume the dredge
to be up, and the (.'xcitement of the haul subsided),
"Hands! make sail," is tlie pipe. Steam is dis-
pensed with, in a short time the sail is all spread,
and with a favouring breeze we are running on our
course at an eight-knot speed. Supper is now pre-
pared, consisting of tea and biscuit, after whio[»,
until 9, smoking is permitted, hamnujcks having
been piped down at 7.30. The commanding officer
usually goes the lound of the decks, to ascertain
that all is correct, when those off duty are exjxicted
to turn-in their hammocks, and so ends the dav and
its duties.

At 6 P.M. the officers usually dine together, when
lie incidents oi the day, the results of the dredj^'i ng,

111

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CRUISE OF n.M.S. CJTAILENGEK

the prospect of the morrow, and other aff'airs which
are nine to turn up, form a lively converHational
hour. After dinner tlie assemhly of smokera UHually
muster on the half-deck, where all yorts of yarns and
topics engross the attention till bed-time.

Sunday alone seems to break the monotony and
routine of everyday life at sea, when, after divisions
and prayers, the remainder of the day is usually
spent in reading or sleeping.

In this manner, and notwithstanding the continued
sameness, days and months slip by, until we reach
port and again anchor; and only when we look
back over the work accomplished can we realise the
length of time [)assed at sea.

0?i the 14th March, just a month after leaving
Teneriife, we reached the island of Sombrero ; here
we hove-to, and remained sounding and trawling in
shallow water for a couple of days, with ejatisfactory
results.

On the morning of the lOih the island of St.
Thomas (one of the Virgin group) was in sigiit ;
and later in the day we anchored in the outer
iiarlxjur.

OAMUEll AND FLOATIKO DOCK, BERMJTDA.

(JllAlTKll IV.

St. Thomas (West Indies) to Bekmuda and Halifax (Nova
Scotia), and uaok to Bkubiuda.

At St. ThoinftR — Tho town of Clmrlotto Amalia— Importfujco of tbo
islimd— I'n^^lish \crhoI in distrcHS — Tow her into |x)rt — Ijt'av(3 St.
Thomas — The first death en l)oard— Soundings— Burial at ma —
Bernuida in sight — Sounding round tho rocfe — St. George's — Tho
narrows— Pretty scenery - Heach tho anchorage in Grassy Bay —
The Naval Yard — Historical skett^h of the Bermudas — G(X)l()gical
an(i lK»taniral researches— lioave liermuda— Soundings — The GnU'
Stream- fiong Island to Nova Scotia — In Halifax harlnnir — Tho
city and its suhurlw — Goltl and coal mines — Halifax to Bermuda
— In the Camlxjr— The sand glacier —The caves.

The iHlaml of St. Tliomus being usually very un-
healthy, it was clecidecl to anchor in the outer Imrhour,
or Gregorie Channel. Here we swung ship, rated
chronometers, and filled u[) with coal.

III

,i _

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CUALLENGEIi.

Naturally enough, after being a month at sea,
most were anxious for a run on shore. We found
the country and scenery pretty ; the lofty hills were
varied in colour, and a])peared to be thickly wooded
with a variety of trees, all green and tempting, as
far as the eye could reach.

The town, named Charlotte Anialia, has no pre-
tensions to size or elegance. It is, however, most
picturesquely situated along the northern shore of
the islar ' l)acked up by high hills, and having a
curious saddle-shaped mountain running through
its centre, terminating in two peaks, some 1525 feet
in height.

This island, which has in later years been visited
with so many calamities, and laid waste from time to
lime by hurricanes and great revolutions in nature,
still holds its position, and will continue to be an
important possession, not from its trade or produce,
but from its geographical situation. Ai the present
time it is one of the most important pc-rts of call in
the West Indies, particularly for the mail service,
some ten or twelve different lines reaching here
monthly. There can be little doubt that the traffic
will increase in proportion as sailing-vessels are
superseded by steam.

A j)leasant week had passed, several excursions had
been made to the adjacent islands of Sombrero and
St. John's, where not only dredging and sounding
but good shooting were obtained.

.«i(.1

ENGLISH VESSEL IN DISTRESS.

Just as we were on the point of leaving, intelli-
gence reached the port of an English vessel (of about
1600 tons) being in need of assistance. Instructions
were given from the Consulate, and on the morning
of March 23rd wo steamed in search of the derelict.
After a short time the vessel was discovered at
anchor, taken in tow, and brought into harbour.
It proved to be an iron ship, named the Varuruiy
of Liverpool. We learnt she left New York in
January last, and through falling in with very
stormy weather had lost her main and mizen masts,
and nearly all her sails, before she was td)andoned
to her fate.

Eventually it appears she was boarded by another
vessel, a prize-crew sent on board, who jury-rigged
her, and thus she reached within 15 miles of St.
Thomas, where we discovered her.

On the morning of March 24th, we left the an-
chorage under sail ; with the light prevailing winds
we made but little progress, and the next day sounded
and dredged in shallow water (390 fathoms) off the
north coast of Culebra Island (near St. Thomas).
During the operation of heaving in the dredge a fatal
accident occurred, by the parting of a rope span used
for securing the iron leading block for the dredge-rope,
which in its flight across the deck struck a seaman,
named William Stokes, so severely on the head as to
produce concussion of the brain, from which he died
in a few hours.

■| '! .1

\' 11

CRUISE OF ILM.S. CHALLENGER.

A short time after, when the dredge came up, it
waH found to contain the usual Globigerina ooze, and
soiue specimens of coral and broken shell. On the
2Gth, being about 85 miles north of St. Thomas,
a sounding was made in the great depth of 3875
fathoms; the dredge was lowered, and after some
hours it was brought up with a considerable quantity
of grey ooze, but no traces of animal life were
detected.

After evening quarters, the l)ell tolled, and all the
ship's company assembled to pay their last tribute to
their late 8hii)mate. The captain read the beautiful
and appropriate service for a burial at sea, and on
reaching that portion, " We commit his body to the
deep," it was slid out of the port, wrapped in a ham-
mock weighted with shot, into the bright blue tide,
to be seen no more until that day when the sea shall
give up its dead.

For several days soundings showed an average
depth of 2800 fathoms, with a red-clay bottom ; this
continued until within about 100 miles of Bermuda,
when we again came upon the grey ooze.

On the 3rd April land was in sight ; and as we
approached the Bermudas, which are mere specks on
the chart of the wide Atlantic, one was immediately
struck with their somewhat dull and sombre aspect ;
the land nowhere rising to a greater height than
200 feet (where the lighthouse is situated), and by far
the greater part not being more than from 25 to 50

-»u.

ST. GEOIiGE'S.

feet above the Hca-level. We liove-to for the night,
unci for a portion of the next day were engaged
Bounding and dredging ronnd the reefs in a dupth
of 400 fathoms on a coral clay bottom ; the results
were, as is usually the case in the proximity of
coral reefs, extremely poor, the coial sand dSri.^'-
being a])parently unfavourable to the development
of animal life.

On its conclusion, we closed on the land ; and as we
stopped off St. George's for the pilot to navigate the
vessel through the intricate and dangerous narrows
between the reefs, it was indeed a pretty sight.
Seemingly nothing could have 'oeen more romantic
than the little harbour stretched out before us :
the variety and beauty of the islets scattered
about; the clearness of the water; the number
of boats and small vessels cruising l)etween tlie
islands, sailing from one cedar-grove to anotlier,
made up as charming a picture as could well be
imagined.

Proceeding on, as we near the shore, the white
houses of Hamilton are seen ])eeping out from
amongst the dark-green foliage; then Clarence Hill,
the oficial residence of the naval Comn>ander-in-
Chief, is in sight, overlooking a pretty little bay and
landing-place, with the dark cedars and other trees
coming close down to the water's edge ; Mount
Langton, a charming spot, the residence of the
Governor, has been passed, and in a short time we

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WEBSTER, N.Y. I45S0

(716) S73-4S03

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CRUISE OF HJI.S. CHALLENGEB.

anchor in Grassy Bay. Nature is looking beautiful^
and the temperature is genial and pleasant. These
islands, situated as they are between the parallels of
32° and 33° north latitude, are about equally distant
from the West Indies and the coast of North America,
consequently the climate is a mean between the two,
partaking neither of the extreme heat of the one
nor the excessive cold of the other.

Ajwil 5th.' — The morning was lovely, and from the
anchorage the view in either direction was very
beautiful : look where we would, there was a sort of
prettiness. The land broken up into little knolls and
cays; the sparkling sea running here and there into
creeks, bays, and inlets, together with the ever-green,
foliage of the cedar arid oleander, made up a very
attractive landscape. Directly in front of us is the
Naval Yard, with its jetties and cambers, in which
were H. M. ships Royal Alfred (flying the flag of the
Commander-in-Chief), Terror^ Irresistible, and several
small gunboats ; later in the day the Challenger
joined them, so as to facilitate refitting and com-
pleting necessary stores.

Close at hand is the great iron floating dock; and
stretching away in either direction are extensive
stores, factories, and the residences of the officials
connected with the establishment.

These islands are said to have been visited nearly
400 years ago by a Spaniard named Juan Bermndez,
and on their discovery being reported to Spain, tliey

1 unl

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mSTOniCAL SKETCH OF THE BEPiMUBAS. G5

were described as tlie most remote of all tlie islands
yet found in the world. From this date many years
seemed to liave elapsed without anything hein<»: re-
corded al)out them, except an occasional wreck, or
stories of the old buccaneers, who were said to hold
court here after some of their successful raids on the
Spanish Main, and tradition even now iufoinis ns
of untold wealth heinfj; Inn'ied about amonG:st the
islands. Perliaps the, earliest authentic account is
that given by one of the crew of the St a Adventure, a
vessel that was wi'ecked off the coast in KiOO. It
a])pears this vessel had been fitted out in England to
convey the newly jippointed Governor, Sir Thomas
Gates, together with Admiral Sir Gcoi-ge Somers
and other officials, to the recently formed colonv of
A'irginia ; meeting with a dreadful storm, and suffer-
ing great privations, their vessel was run on shore,
and became a com])lete wreck. The islands were
found to be uninhabited, although there were evident
traces of earlier visitors, for hogs were found to be
very numerous, having probably been set adrift by
them. Fish and turtle were also abundant; and,
finding the climate so pleasant and the land so pi-o-
ductive, a year passed beft^re any attem])t was made
to get away; by which time they had managed to
build a small vessel, and in May KilO tliev set sail
for their orii^inal destination.

On reaching Virginia, they fnuu'l the colony an
badly oft' for the necessaries ol' life that Sir George

f i

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CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Soiners and a party of volunteers started for
Bermuda to obtain supplies ; and during this trip
Sir George died, near the site of the present town
of St. George, where there is a monument erected
to his memory.

From reports reaching England about this time
(1012), a chartered company was formed, colonisa-
tion commenced, and soon after the first party of
settlers arrived, under the charge of Mr. Riehaid
More as Governor.- From this date Bermuda became
a British colony, with representative government
and a legislative assembly.

As time passed on, its importance as a naval and
military station became ap[)arent, and large sums
of money werti expended on fortifications and im-
provements. Of Inte years the islands have become
well known as the site of extensive convict establish-
ments; but these, like all the other outlying penal
settlements, have been broken up, and the convicts
sent back to our own shores again.

At the present time the imports and exports are
but small ; and although possessing such a fine cli-
mate, its agricultural produce is hmited ([)erliaps
from a dearth of labour), for only about one-tenth of
its area is cultivated, and this is only in isolated
patches, where arrowroot and early crops of vegetables
are produced for the American m^irkets.

Here a fortnight was spent in scientific pursuits.
The dredging around the reefs and the several deep-

GEOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL RESEABCHES. G7

are
cli-
aps
of
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|its.
lep-

sea soundings taken in their neigliboiirhood prove
Bermuda to be a solitary peak, rising abruptly from
a base of only 120 miles in diameter.

The geological structure of tliis island Vvas most
carefully studied ; results showing them to be only
one kind of rock, a grey limestone, \vhif;h with but
few exceptions was found to be of a soft, crumbling
nature, yet capable of being employed for building
purposes.

Tlie botanists paid a good deal of attention to
the flora of the island, for the charming walks through
the avenues and forests were additional inducements
to persevere in this study.

We left Bermuda on the 21st April. On clearing
the Narrows, soundings commenced around the reefs
in over 'iOOO fathoms ; bottom of coral clay. Search
was made for a reported patch, which was found on
the 23rd, about 13 miles south-west of the island, with
32 fathoms of water on it, and a btttom of pebbles
and stones. Here we anchored for one niglit, and
the next day shaped a north-westerly course so as to
carry a line of soundings to Sandy Hook.

The weather on the whole was as favourable as
could havo been expected at this season of the year.
For a few days it was squally, when in the vicinity
of the Gulf Stream, but when fairly across this belt,
fine agreeable weather again greeted us.

The soundings obtained showed the bottom to be
fairly level, at an average depth of 2G00 fathoms to

F 2

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CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

witliin 200 miles of Sandy Hook, when it shallo /ed
to 1700 fathoms.

The soundings taken in v^ossing and near the
Gulf Stream were of very great interest. On each
side ^ depths were found to be respectively 2400
and 1700 fathoms, grey ooze bottom; while in the
stream itself the line ran out over 2600 fathoms
without reaching the bottom. This sounding, how-
ever, was considered doubtful, there being a strong
wind and current at the time dragging the line out
of the perpendicular. The stream was found to be
about 60 miles broad, which was easily detected by
the 8° difference of temperature on entering and
leaving.

This influential current, little as it may be appre-
ciated in a general way, is of the greatest importance
to those countries whose waters are influenced by its
flow. It takes its rise in the Gulf of Mexico, though it
might be regarded as a continuation of the equatorial
current which flows from the western coast of Africa
across the Atlantic, absorbing the sun's rays as i1
advances, and storing away the warmth for future
use. It then passes into the Mexican Gulf, where its
waters are raised to the high temperature of 86*,
and then sweeps through the pass of Florida, skirting
the sliores of Nortli America, until it takes that re-
m;irkable curve off Nova Scotia and Newfoundland
which thiows its waters across the Atlantic, towards
the coast of Europe.

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THE GULF STREAM.

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One branch curves downward, and flits past tlie
Azores, tlie other ghdes northward in the direction
of the British Isles, and the Polar Sea.

Its length, if reckoned from its Mexican iiead to
the Azores, is upwards of 3000 miles, and its average
velocity is about 40 miles a day.

The great function of this stream is that of a
bearer of heat, setting out at a temperature of 80°,
losing not more than from 10° to 15*^ in its progress.
It thus reaches our coast and ameliorates the climate,
for in point of latitude England corresponds with
Labrador. All are familiar with the fact that in
the latter regions the winters are exceedingly severe
and protracted, and the vegetation poor and stunted.
Had our shores been without this warming influence,
and the British Isles compelled to subsist on their
own geographical allowance of heat, we should have
been left in the same condition.

We were within 100 miles of Long Island, when our
course was shaped so as to pass south and west of the
little George Bajdc, and so on to Halifax. In this run
several dredgings and soundings were obtained in
average depths of 1350 fathoms, the bottom yielding
chiefly grey ooze, and the course of the Gulf Stj earn
was again crossed. On the 8th May, when about
90 miles south of Halifax, we sounded in 75 fathoms
on Le Have Bank. On the morning of the 9th May,
tlie "utline of the coast of Nova Scotia was before us,
**j», later in the day we entered between the head-

!)^

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CBUISE OF E.MS. CRALLENGEB.

lands of the magriiflcent harbour of Halifax, which
is so well sheltered l)y McNab's Island, lying at its
mouth, that it affords security and safe anchorage to
vessels of any magnitude.

This island is covered with extensive foliage and
vegetation, all bright and green, and, with the pretty
white lighthouse at its western extremity, can scarcely
l)e surpassed for pictorial effect. Steaming on, we
next pass St. George's Island, which seems to lie in
the very heart of the harbour, and is well and
strongly fortified. A short distance farther and
we reach our destination, alongside the wharf of
the Naval Yard, for the purpose of completiug
stores.

This colony, the history of which dates back to
July 1749, was founded at the instigation of the
Earl of Halifax, at that time President of the Board
of Trade and Plantations.

The city, with its suburbs, extends, for over two
miles in length, along the slope of a hill on the
western side of a very fine harbour. To the tourist
it presents varied and mmierous attractions.

Its charming situation, its safe harbour and splen-
did scenery, are not to be surpassed on this side of
the Atlantic. The sea runs up into various little bays
and coves indenting the land in many directions,
giving a variety of charming aspects to the entire
scene, and finally ending in Bedford Basin, a broad
sheet of water covering an area jf nine square

.i-rnimmwf^i^-i

HALIFAX.

miles, its banks rich in all sorts of charming foHa|n:e,
where cluster numerous pretty villa residences of the
wealthy families.

The appearance of the city on first landing is not
very prepossessing, but on reaching its centre, there
are seen good broad streets, well built upon, with shops
and stores of large dimensions, where all the luxuries
and requirements of life are to be obtained. Amongst
these, Granville and Hollis Streets take the pre-
eminence, ccmtaining as they do the best of the shops,
and most of the principal public buildings, such as
the new Post Office, House of Assembly, Public
Library, &c., besides club-houses and banks, all
worthy of note for the beauty of their architecture ;
in addition to which may be enumerated Govern-
ment House, Dalliousie College, Wellington Bai-racks,
Hospital, and Admiralty House, all fine buildings of
their class.

It is the seat of two Bishops, the Anglican Bishop
of Nova Scotia, and the Roman Catholic Archbishop
of Halifax. There are over thirty cliurches and
chapels, some of them very handsome structures,
including almost all important denominations ; and
for charitaljle institutions, Halifax is said to out-
number any other city of its size in the Provinces.
Among them are asylums for insane, deaf and dumb,
the blind, besides some twenty others, where all sorts
and conditions of men and women can receive aid
and assistance in time of need.

^lm'i\

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CRUISE OF lULS. CUALLENGEH.

Tli< re are in tlic city ^sovun or ei^'ht Uiiiks,
Masonic llall, iiiid clubs ; there are several gold-
miiiiii<jf and joint-stock c()ni[)anies, news-roorus, pub-
lic lil)rari('S, niusenins, and otjier institutions, of all
of wliicli tlie Halifax people are very proud; and
well tliev may he.

The Naval Yard, which covers an area of fourteen
acres, is at present princi[)ally used as a depot for
stores ; its value as a naval station is consider-
able, and was fully known as long* ngo as 171)3,
in the wars of those days, and even later, when
it became the rendezvous of our West India
squadron, and received all its prizes. Attached to
it is the Naval Hospital, which should not be over-
looked, for here many a poor, stricken fellow is
brought up from the West Indies with fever, to
recover by the aid of this healthy, invigorating
climate.

The famous Citadel, sitnated on the crest of the
hill overlooking the town, is said to be, after Quebec,
the strongest in the Dominion. Fiom here we have
a fine panoramic stretch of scenery ; the picturesque
abounds everywhere, and from every point there is
Bome glimpse of nature to charm, whether it be
mountain, valley, island, or lake. P'rom this stand-
point we can obtain a peep of the north-west " Arm,"
with the number of pretty little islands scattered
over its length and breadth. The nature of the
land about here, with its green slopes running close

HA 11 FAX.

down to the \vjit(3r'8 0(lj2;e, lias o^reatly jusistcd, with
the many charming* vilhiH erected in the midst of
the ever-greeu tohage, in c()ml)ining art and taste,
giving such charms to the surrounding scene that the
most enthusiastic admirer of nature could scarcely
desire more.

Then there is tlie eastern shore and town of Dart-
mouth, which has to he readied hy steam-ferry.
Here are many jdeasant walks, and during the
winter seasons its inland lakes are gay witii crowds
of skaters.

The public gardens, covering an area of nearly
twenty acres, deserve more than a [)assing men-
tion; for their loveliness and beauty can be ap-
preciated by the ordinary observer as well as the
learned.

Picnicking is one of the favourite amusements
of our Haligonian C(3usins, which they ap[)ear to
heartily enjoy : during the season everybody goes
picnicking, from the government official to the
poorest member of the community, in one or other
of the many beautiful little bays or coves in the
harbour.

Then, with such facilities as the harbour pos-
sesses, all sorts of boating and yachting and
fishing are in high favour. Capital regattas are
frequently held, and the clubs usually make good
shows as regards number, build, management, and
speed.

«|

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CRUISE OF HM.S. CHALLENGEB.

Halifax is the port of call of nine lines of steamei's ;
and in the course of a short time, when the great
intercolonial railway sliall be completed, it will
give easy access to all the markets of Canada
and the United States, and become the great wintei
terminus of the Dominion,

During onr stay, as we lay alongside the Naval
Yard, every facility was afforded our Halifax friends
to visit the ship. Many availed themselves of the
opportunity, and evinced the greatest desire to see
and examine the many submarine wonders that had
up to this date been collected.

The members of the Halifex Institute of Natural
Science mustered in strong numbers, and appeared to
take a special interest in the work already accom-
plished.

The blind crustacean zoophytes, the varieties of
rare and nt^/,' forms of corals and sponges, were
well scanned ; while for the geologists, amongst
other things attracting their attention, was a large
boulder, which had been brought up in the dredge
some 300 miles south of the coast. This was care-
fully examined, and eventually recognised as a piece
of Shelburne granite, which perhaps was carried oif
: sea in long past ages, on an iceberg detached from
rhe coast glacier of Nova Scotia, and deposited where
v.e bad found it, to be agidn recovered after such a
lapse of time, and to liel]) the solution of the glacial
theory, according to which, at one time, ice held

HALIFAX TO BERMUDA.

75-

Nova Scotia in as close an embroce as it does
Iceland and Greenland at tlie present.

The weather had not been of the best ; cold winds,
with occasional snow and rain, greeted us during tlie
time at our disposal here; yet we would fain have
made a longer stay amongst such kind friends, of
whom it is a pleasure to speak. There was a good-
ness and cordiality witli their hospitality and warm-
heartedness that can never be forgotten by those
who know them.

On the 19th May, we steamed out of the liarbour,
and before nightfjxU the coast was out of sight.
On clearing the land a section was commenced
in almost a straight line to Bermuda. The serial
temperatures taken during the passage were ex-
tremely instructive and important, showing, as they
do, that a belt of warm water of a temperature of 65°,
and nearly 400 fothoms in thickness, extends from
the eastern margin of the Grulf Stream to within a
short distance of the West Indies, encircling the
Bermudas, and actually raising the average tempera-
ture of its superficial water above that of the corre-
sponding layer some 650 miles farther south. It
also proved that the cold surface current running
to the southward along the American coast merely
lowered the temperature of the intermediate strata,
the bottom water not beino- in the least affected bv it.
In fact, the results of the temperature observations
already obtained seem to indicate that the cold water

ill

'■ I'

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CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

at the bottom of the Atlantic is obtained from Ant-
arctic sources. Nine important stations had been
examined on our way, showing an average depth of
2500 iathoms.

Late on the evening of the 28th we observed the
light on Gibbs Hill, Hamilton, sparkling brightly
ahead. Hove- to for the night, and for the next two
days continaed sounding and dredging round the reefs.
Swung ship both for magnetic and azimuth correc-
tion, after which stood in for the Narrows, got the
pilot on board, and a few hours later we were along-
side the jetty of the Naval Yard, where we found
H. M. ships Terror, Sirius, Minstrel, Fly, and Brito-
mart. Here we remained for ten days refitting
and completing stores, find during this interval
many scientific excursions were made about the
islands. To the geologist, particularly, the exa-
mination and phenomena of the sand glacier were
exceedingly interesting. It appears that the fine
coral debris which surrounds the shore is caught at
certain exposed parts of the coast by the prevailing
winds, and so blown into heaps more than 30 feet
in height. We were informed that on some parts of
the southern shore, where deep valleys once existed,
level plains are now to be seen. And this is still
going on, overwhelming gardens, houscKS, and planta-
tions in its way, aud but few attempts appear to be
made to stay its })rogress.

In some places where these great heaps of sand

THE SAND GLACIER.

had accumulated and hardened by the action of rain
and other processes (by which this coral sand is
converted into limestone), were to be seen rocks of
the most irregular and fantastic shape, forming many
of those remarkable caves which are, in most cases,
covered with luxuriant vegetation, and add so much
to the interest of these islands.

I ii

.im

NATIVES OF SANTIAGO, CAPE DB VEKDE ISLANDS.

CHAPTER V.

Beumdda to the Azores, Cape de Verde, St. Paul's Rocks, Fer-
nando NoRONHA, Bahia, Tristan d'Acunha, and the Cape of
Good Hope.

Leave Bermuda— Soundinj; round the reefs— Commence another sec
tion across the Atlantic to the Azores — Anchor off Horfa, Fayal
— Fayal to St. Michael's — The gardens— Foliage scenery— Lake of
the Seven Cities — Public buildings and streets — Leave the Azores
— Arrive at Madeira — Short stay there in cou'sequonce of epidemic
— Section commenced across the Atlantic to the coast of Africa —

LEAVE BEimUDA.

Palma, one of the Canary Islands, in sight— Sounding and dredg-
ing — Cape de Verde Islands in sight — Anchor of Porto Grande-
Survey the anchorage — The town and adjacent scenery — Leave
for Santiago — Anchor off Porto Pray a — The town — Its natives —
Dredging for pink coral — Proceed towards the African coast —
Course altered for St. Pauls Rocks — The rocks in sight — Made
fast by a hawser — Crossing the Line — The old customs — The
Southern constellations — Arrive at Fernando Noronha — Disap-
pointment at not being able to land for collecting specimens —
Sounding and dredging — Cape Antonio in sight — Anchor otf
Bahia — The city — Excursions in the country — Brazilian scenery —
Foliage and vegetable products — Case of yellow fever — Leave
Bahia— Section commenced to Cape of Good Hope — Island of
Trinidad— Passage across the South Atlantic— The drift nets —
Incidents of the voyage — Sea-birds — The soundings — Pick up
the "westerlies"— Tristan d'Acunha in sight— The settlement of
Edinburgh — Squally weather— Visit the Inaccessible Island —
The brothers Stoltenhoff: their story — Table Mountain, Cape
of Good Hope, in sight — Anchor in Simon's Bay — Placed in
quarantine.

On the morning of June 12th we proceeded from the
Camber, and anchored for a short time off St. George's.
During the two following days we remained in the
vicinity of the reefs, before taking our final departui e
from Bermuda, when it was decided to make another
section across the Atlantic to the Azores. Seventeen
stations were decided on, and during the passage we
had most favourable weather for carrying out the
proposed programme.

The soundings showed that almost a level plateau
existed, with a bottom of grey ooze, and an average
depth of 2600 fathoms. The dredge frequently
brought up many creatures of the greatest interest,
and current observations were most successfully
carried out.

^ I

ire

ki'i

Ill

I it?

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

On the 1st July anchored off the town of Htirta,
in the island of Fryal, but on ascertaining from the
health officer that ^^ small-pox epidemic had broken
out, it was deemed prudent not to land, and therefore
on the next day proceeded for St. Michael's, which
was reached on the 4th ; finding it healthy, it was
determined to remain for a few days.

These islands, known as the Azores, lie in the midst of
the Atlantic, occupying a line of about 300 miles from
N.N.W. to E.S.E., and are peculiarly remarkable for
the incessant gales to which they are subject through-
out the year, and on this account, joined to that of
being destitute of any port that can offer a safe re-
treat and shelter to vessels, they have hitherto been
held somewhat in dread and avoided by the trader.

The whole range, it is evident, is of submarine
volcanic formation, symptoms of which are manifest
to the geologist at almost every step. Tlieir general
aspect is certainly very picturesque, presenting, as
they do, a series of scattered conical hills, which
are in most cases extinct volcanoes, the sides of
which are now beautifully clothed with verdant
heatlis and shrubs. Nature appears to have been
very bountiful in bestowing on it all the advantages
that a fine atmosphere and a pure air can impart.

In the private gardens in the immediate vicinity
of the town are to be seen all the rare productions of
flowers and slirubs that usually constitute our Euro-
pean conservatories, tastefully mingled with orna-

THE AZORES.

mental trees and plants of the Tropics. The great
variety of palms, of cacti, dragon-trees, aloes, and
others, blended with tlie orange, lemon, fig tree, and
lime, produce a most pleasing effect ; even the beauty
of our own famihar flowers seems improved, and
they grow to an enormous size.

Sugar-cane at one time was produced to a large
extent ; but the demand appears to have declined,
and, in consequence, the cultivation of grain, oranges,
lemons, and the vine has been substituted : the pro-
duce of these is an extensive and profitable source
of revenue.

During our stay, exploring parties visited many
places of interest some few miles inland, especially
the Lake of the Seven Cities, on their way passing
through gullies, chasms, and long deep ravines, tliat
evidently have been formed by torrents rushing from
the mountains to tlie sea, all of which are now, by
the bounteous aid of Nature, covered with luxuriant
foliacre and charminir shrubs.

The Azores abound with a great variety of mineral
springs of the most valuable qualities and tempera-
tures, which might be rendci'ed a source of wealth to
the inhabitants if the condition of the country and the
acconnnodations of life were such as to induce visitors
to resort thither to profit by their beneficial effects.

The public buildings are of but little interest. The
streets are narrow, as in most southern climates,
principally for the purpose of excluding the rays of

^ m

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

the sun. Every house, of high or low degree, ap-
pears to have its latticed windows and halcoiiies,
behind which the ladies of the household seem to
pass a large proportion of the day, gazing out on the
passers-by.

In the course of a few years the breakwater will
probably be completed ; it is being carried out for
some distance, and will be sufficient to shelter all the
shipping that visit the port during the fruit season,
which commences in November and ends in May,
during which period it is usually very bad weather.

On the evening of July 9th we left the anchorage
under steam, and proceeded to the offing, when the
ship was swung for magnetic and azimuth correc-
tions. On their conclusion, a course was shaped for
Madeira, which was readied on the 15th. Here, as
at Fayal, we were informed by the health officer that
small-pox was very prevalent ; it was therefore de-
cided to have very little intercourse, and no com-
munication with the shore was permitted. The island
scenery, as viewed from the ship, is certainly very
charming, and one cannot help enjoying the beau-
tiful prospect stretching out before us. As there
appeared to be no prospect of landing, it was de-
cided to proceed on our way ; accordingly, on the
morning of the 18th July, we left, and commenced
to make a section along the west coast of Africa.
The weather on the whole was very fine, and, with
a capital breeze in our favour, good progress was

stra
and
shoi
higl

POIiTO GRANDE, ST. VINCENT.

de-
he
?ed
Lca.
ith

made : still it did not deter our stopping daily a
few hours for sounding and dredging purposes, (l('|)th
heing found from 1125 to 2400 fatlioms. Palma,
one of the Canary Islands, was sighted on the 19th,
and sounding and dredging carried on in its vicinity.
On one occasion we alighted apparently nea^ the
same spot dredged in the February previous, bring-
ing up in the dredge some of the dead hard coral
and volcanic sand, as on the former occasion.

Thus the time passed pleasantly er -ugh. We had
found deep water day after day close up to the island
of Antonio (Cape de Yerde), which was sighted on the
26th ; the soundings now got less, and showed that
this island was connected by a ridge with St. Vincent,
only 52 fathoms of water being found in some places
on it. On the morning of July 27tli we ancliored oif
Porto Grande, St. Vincent, and remained until the
5th August. During the stay a survey was made of
the anchorage, and the vessel filled up with coal.

What a contrast in the scenery between this place
and Madeira ! Here are barren rocks, and not the
faintest indication of vegetation to be seen in any
direction, although its formation, there can be no
doubt, is precisely similar.

^" The town, if it can be so named, consists of a few
straggling houses and the stores of Messrs. Millar
and Co., the coal contractors, situated along the
shore, while, stretching away behind, are several
high, rough, and jagged peaks and mountains, aliord-

G 2

. f.

^ !

CUUISE OF E.M.S. CHALLENGER.

ing a fine background for the barren and uninterest-
ing coast scenery. Scarcely any supplies were to be
obtained bere. We left on the 5tb of August, and
the next day reached Santiago, another island of the
same group. Here we had somewhat better success,
and a fair supply of fruit and vegetables was obtaine .

Porto Praya is prettily situated, at least it appears
so from the sea, on an elevated piece of land at the
extreme end of an open roadstead, which is well
protected from the prevailing winds : still there is
gen(Tally a long Atlantic swell setting in, which
makes landing unjtleasant and diflicult.

A^isiting the shore oji one occasion under a very
hot sun, the walk to the town was found exceedingly
fatiguing. The roads were deep with sand, and the
views obtained on reaching it anything but enticing;
and any idea previously formed in its favour was
soon dispelled.

The houses, with but few excejitions, are poor
specimens of liabitations, usually built of stone, one
story high. The interiors present only a few articles
of absolute necessity; of home comfort or cleanliness,
in our sense of the word, they seem to have no idea.

The population appears to be made up of an inter-
mixture of descendants from Portuguese settlers and
ne.ui'oes from the adjacent coast, who cultivate little
pal dies of land in the valleys, where are produced
a few varieties of trojucal fruits for the market.

It had been reported that a species of pink coral

tl
tl

ST. PAUL'S HOCKS.

was found on this coast ; but the result of our dredg-
ing was not very successful. .A few specimens
were, however, obtained, similar to the red from the
Mediterranean, but no pink.

A-fter three days, we started on the 9th of August,

8T. PAUt/s KOCKS.

and continued our section towards the coast of Africa.
It was now the rainy season, and each day as we
neared the Equator we felt its disagreeable effects.
We ran on under the favourable influence of the
trade-winds, taking a line of soundings as far as lati-
tude 3° north, when we were juvst oif Cape Pal mas,

mvi[

.. U

■11

' ' 1

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CnALLENGEIt.

on the west coast of Africa. The south-east trades
now compelled us to alter course, and we stood to
the westward so as to reacli St. Paul's Rocks, nearly
000 miles distant. The Guinea current had been in-
vestigated ; and it was found we had fallen in with
tlie E(|uatorial current, which continued with us until
we were near the coast of Brazil. The dredgings
obtained were particularly rich and interesting, and
the frequent soundings showed we had been sailing
over an average depth of 2200 fathoms.

On the 27tli August land was reported, and as we
neared St. Paul's Rocks, so the little pinnacles in the
midst of the ocean became clearer and clearer. There
was deep water close to ; so we secured to the lee-side
by means of a large hawser.

The rocks are situated in 0° 58' north latitude, and
29° 15' west longitude. They are 540 miles from,
the coast of South America, and SS'' from Fernando
Noronha. The highest point is only about 60 feet
above the level of the sea. In moderately fine
weather a landing can usually be effected. Hundreds
of sea-birds frequent them ; but there was not a single
plant or moss to be found, nor any fresh water to be
obtained.

During the two days of our stay the rocks were
alivo with surveyors, naturalists, and others. Fish
was to be obtained in abundance. A thorough geo-
logical examination was made, with a view to test
the practicability of ei'ecting a lighthouse, as a monu-

1 ?,

III

I' I

i !

I !i

I :

■'I

'!,

CBOSSINO THE LINE.

ment to tlie memory of the late Captain Mainy,
United States Navy — who was the father of deep-sea
exploration, and who has rendered such important
aid to navigation. However, from our observations,
the decision was altogether unfavourable.

On the morning of 29th August hawsers were cast
off, and we steamed round the rocks, taking sound-
ings and current observations ; and on the next day
crossed the Equator in longitude 30° 18' west. The
disagreeable practice of shaving, Sec, those who for
the first time '* cross the Line " was not permitted,
although there were many who were anxious to join
in the usual sport. This olJ -fashioned custom, which
the present age seems inclined to get rid of, is
gradually falling into disuse, and but few ships' com-
panies now pay that homage on entering Neptmie's
dominions as they were wont to. So the invisible
belt was crossed ; and as the night advanced the
more striking became the aspect of the Southern Con-
stellations. The sparkling light of the North Star had
for some time past been growing fainter, and at
length disappeared altogether. On the other hand,
the Southern Cross, and other stars with which we
were not so familiar, had taken their places ; and
each night, as we moved farther south, for a time we
felt a difficulty in recognising our new acquaint-
ances.

Hiough the Line had been crossed at a more
westerly point than usual, on the 1st September we

! i

1 1,

ill

CBUISE OF U.M.S. CHALLENGER.

were enabled to sight tlie island of Foniaiido
Noronlia ; and later in the day came to anchor in
35 iathoms. The captain landed, and paid his
respects to the Commandant, explaining the object of
our visit, asking permission to survey round the
island, and to explore the interior for botanical and
zoological s})ecimens. This was readily granted ;
but (m the morrow, just as the various parties had
started, a message arrived withdraw'ing the permis-
sion ])reviously given ; the comniiUKiant stating that
he could not, without the sanction of his government,
take upon himself the responsibility of aUowing any
investigation, or of colkcting a single insect or plant.

This group consists of two islands and several
rocks, exposed to the whole swell of the Atlantic,
and the surf breaks constantly and heavily on its
shores. The islands are strange s[)ecimens of volcanic
formation, needle-like rocks, sugar-loafed pinnacles,
and overhanging cliffs.

The central peak is named the Pyramid, and is
about 1000 feet above the level of the sea, the
upper part of which seems to overhang the base.
The islands ai)pear to be well wooded. Trees
abound on the higher parts of the land, with
wondrous ci'ee})ers clustering among their branches.
Of i'ruit, the principal seem to be bananas and
UKjlons. At the present time it is used as a penal
Bettlement by the T^razilian government, giving
Bhi'lter to some 1500 to 2000 [)risoners. A fort,

I I 'i-

^tiiiii,:,! I.

.►I J.I

8trc
of I
Per
callj
T
opp(
tatio
land
first
the I
unce
struc
As
to Jet
islaiK
800
direc
provi
groii]
Fo
unset
and
800
Septa
miles
entra
light!
pronii
On

(

ANCnOll OFF BATIIA,

strong in apjiearance, is garrisoned by a company
of soldiers. It is situated about 300 miles from
Pernambuco, from which place a vessel periodically
calls with provisions.

The naturaHsts particularly regretted to let slip the
opportunity of instituting a comparison of the vege-
tation and its organisation with that on the main-
land of South America. As it was, however, in the
first landing a few specimens were secured ; and
the little that was seen was sufficient to clear up any
uncertainty hitherto existing as to its geological
structure, which was decidedly volcanic.

As nothing farther could be done, it was decided
to leave on the 8rd. For some 20 miles round the
island the soundings showed a rocky bottom of
800 fathoms ; outside which, in a south-westerly
direction, a depth of over 2000 fathoms was found,
proving that a deep channel exists between this
group and the Rocas.

For the following ten days the weather continued
unsettled and squally. Still, very frequent soundings
and dredgings were onward in depths varying from
800 to 2276 fathoms. On the morning of 14th
September, Cape Antonio was in sight, 15 to 20
miles distant. This forms the eastern side of the
entrance to Bahia ; it is covered with trees, and the
lighthouse and flag-staff on its extreme point stand
prominently to the front.

On rounding the cape, the entrance to Bahia de

li'!

I' il

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

Todos Santos lies immediately in front, with the
fine town stretching away on its eastern side. The
bay is full of shipping, and extends for over 20 miles
northward. There are several islands at its head,
and sundry rivers run into its waters. Later in the
day we anchored off the Public Grardens, from which
point a capital view of the city is to be had. It con-
sists of a higher and lower town. The higher por-
tion includes the suburbs of Victoria and Bonifra,
and has several fine streets and stately houses, where
the officials and principal merchants reside. The
lower portion is devoted to commerce, and contains
shops and warehouses for the sale of inland produce
and foreign goods. There is a Naval Arsenal, but
apparently of very little pretensions to size or utility.
The public buildings are of no importance, except
the cathedral, which is built of marble, and is said to
be the handsomest of its kind in Brazil.

During our fourteen days' stay here, numerous ex-
cursions were made both by rail and river, for
through the courtesy of the directors of the respective
companies free tickets were placed at the disposal of
the officers. This afforded special opportunities for
seeing the country for some miles' radius. A short
distance beyond the city tlie land for miles appears
to be covered with forests of charming trees, of all
shapes, sizes, and unknown names ; while nestling
around their green borders are plantations and little
farms, giving the scene a most picturesque effect.

BBAZILIAN SCENERY.

The botanist, naturalist, and even the ordinary
observer of nature, who for the first time wanders
through a Brazilian foresi, cannot fail to realise
sensations of the utmost dehght at the lavish beauty
met with; all this Providence has bestowed, in
an extraordinary degree, attesting the illimitable
power and beneficence of the Creator. All those
interesting objects that Nature loves to blend may
be found here. The beauty of the trees, enhanced
by innumerable vine-creepers, parasites, and orchids,
shrouding every trunk and festooning every path,
the luxuriance of vegetation, the elegance of the
ferns, grasses, and flowers, tend to awaken in the
observer a sense of his own littleness, and to force
him, even in spite of himself, to acknowledge the
Power that formed them.

The number of vegetable products found here is
almost beyond belief. Coffee, cocoa, tea, all sorts of
fruit, scents and spices, sarsaparilla, quinine, tonquin
beans, indigo, india-rubber, bread-fruit, the beautiful
cashew-nut, gay-coloured apples and plants, gums,
seeds, and leaves, of infinite variety and great value,
everywhere abound.

Such are among the elements of scenery met with ;
but to paint its effect is a hopeless endeavour.

Thus the time at our disposal soon passed. Leave
had been granted to the ship's company, who en-
joyed themselves after a fashion in this expensive
locality. A theatrical entertainment on board the

i':t

V -! !

,1-

. 'J;.

CRUTSK OF n.M.S. CHALLENflKU.

U.S. flag-slii)) LatWii'iU-r. and a matcli with tlio Baliia
Crickc^t (ylul), all tended to make our wtay agreeable,
which at lensj^th was cut nhort by the appearance of
a cjise of yellow fever. The sufferer wan huided, and
on the 25tli September we sailed to secure against
the spread of the disease by seekirig a colder climate.

A section was now commenced across the Atlantic
to the Cape of (lood Ilo[)e. When clear of the land,
sail was made, and with a pleas;int breeze we raced
on into cooler niid henlthier latitudes. It had been
intended to siglit and make a short stay olf the little
island of Trinidad, a rocky and barren spot, sur-
rounded with a dangerous shore of almost unap-
proachable, shai'p, rugged rock, over which generally
a rough and turbulent surf breaks, affording security
to innumerable sea-birds, for whose refuge it seems
ex})ressly formed.

Owing, however, to utifavom-able winds and other
causes, we were unable to get nearer than 300 miles;
so our course was altered for Tristan d'Acunha.
During the passage the usual programme of sound-
ing and trawling was carried out when opportunities
offered. The ocean seems teenn'ng with animated
organisms. The drift nets, wdiich are always trailing
behind us, get filled in a short tinn^ with immense
numbers of little living creatures, pretty-looking red
and blue cockles, sea-nettle, and various other in-
habitants of tlie deep, many of the most minute size
and delicate form and tint.

SEA-nrrws.

Tn tlic work-room vv.'ih diHcloHOfl, by aid of tlio minro-
Hcopo, to tlio ol)H(jrvoi', ju) cntinOy new world in tlio
economy of ruitnre fiK diHpl.'iyed in sinimal life from
the Hurface of tlie Hea.

During the pansaf^e many eventH took plfico
wliich, altliongh trivial in themwilven, contrilmted
to render the voyage leHH tedious and monotonouH,
OccMKionnlly wo spoke or wghted a vcHsel, or fell in
with a l)a>nacle-covered fragment of timher, wliicli was
secured and overlianled for tlje sake of any living
creatnreH adliering to its Hides. But wliat seenuid to
im])art an extra interest to our e very-day life, when
clear of the Tropics, was the vast numl)ei' of sea-birds
constantly accompanying us, ])ro]);ihly attiacted l>y the
numerous fragments of j)rovisions tlirown overboard.

Cap(? pigeons, those prettily marked birds about
the size of doves, the majestic albatross, stormy
petrels of all sizes, follow on in motley groups, never
seeming to weary in their search for food. These
birds appear to possess a remarkable capacity for
remembering the exact time when they are Hkely to
get a feed, for day after day, soon after noon, the
viciin'ty of the vessel was usually animated with
their shrill shrieking and fighting with each other
for the dainty morsels thrown overboard.

T]\Q soundings ap])eared to indicate that a bank
with about 2000 fathoms of water on it connects the
Trislan Islands with the coast of SoutJi America,
The dredgings were not quite so productive as had

I':S

ih'

! »!

CliVISK OF llJt.S. (lIMI.ENdKH.

Imhmi |>iv\i(»iiHly lli(» cnH)*. On llio Cth Oclnl.rr, in
lal. .'{0"hi>ii(1i, \\v |)icl<(Ml ii|) lli(H>()ininun('(>ni<<nt ol" (lio

liorf,

NVC ni!l(|(^ H

*' \V(>Nl(Mli(>H," and liv IIumt iniliuMKu^

wuH in

lor

islandH. On llio njoniin^ of (lio I5|.li land
Hi,iilil,a li(ll(> H|)(M'lc al liiHl. liHin^mp dark and iii^^cd
onl of llu> H(»a, ^nowin^ \\\.v^(\v and la.i|»MM- aw wo
n(>arod, hMininalin^- al lonylJi in a. Iin^r(, conii^ai poak
Honio .sooo \\^x\i in licii^lif, (h>V(M(m1 with hiiow.

It HiMMUH HiirpriMin^' tliai piMtplo cafi l»o lonnd to
liMvc associatiouH and IVIcmmIh, and iHoialo tlicin-
H(dv('N in sncli an ()iit-nt'-tli(>-\vav plaoo an tiiifi, nion;
r(Mn(>li> iVoni otlx'i' iidialtitcd pJacc^H tliaii a.Fiy ot.l
NcttltMutMit. on tlio la('(» of tlu^ ^•IoIk». At, tlio l,inH) of
onr visit tlu> popnlatioii (M)nHiHt(Ml ol" Honio t.wont-y
f'ainilicH. nnnduMin^ cigld y-l'onr in all. Soon ai'tor
onr ancliorinj^: ii Itoal. cann^ olV witli RincntcMMi of
tlio i.slandiM's. AnjonjL»Hi lluMn vvaH l\it(M' (J
tlu'ir p)vcM-nor, from wlioni it. wa.H awortaiiKMl that
tli(\v had ]>KMdy of cattle and vcfifolahlrH for wile,
'.riiis was widcoiuo iiowh, for fresh piovisioriH aro
alwavH acci'ptahlo after heiii^ a long- lime at

reon.

Hoa.

They however proved, an wan found out later, that
they were not ahovo tryin^j^ to make a ^ood bargain
out of lis, an(i consequently Hpoiled the market for
lh(Muselves.

AVe had approached tlie land as near as Hafety
permitted; the weather ])romising to bo fine, opf)()r-

tiinilios \/ero taken to laud. Soon after le;

ivinir

the

?K--i

77//'; INACCI'JSSmiJ'l IHIANI).

9r,

V'»RH('I, Mil («Xl('IIKi\(» licit, (if MCM-WCCfl WJIH (oilfl'l Cll-

ciniliii^ lli(> iKlfnid, foriiiin^ ii. fuiliirnl liroik wjilor,
nnd HO [irrvciiliiin^ IIm' violcnrc of llie licjivy Aflnniic,
BiiF-l ln(^!il<iii(i;', n,H it, oIlMTwiHc woiiM, Jilon^ tfio
hIiotcs

I'j'lorc n'!H'Iiiii<r t]|(> ImiiI, mII, morn or IfiHH, ^ot m,
w^'ttiii/r, .|K llic rollcrH ImcjiIv mIohj^ flic IkimcIi, ImiI,
jillf'i {», KcrfirnliN^ nil Ijirnl'd ri;.';lit, cnoii^li, jind rruiflo
>t t(»iir of" tli<^ HottlfiMioiit,, wliirli jh ri}irrM',<l I'MiiilmrLrf

r-i "»

ill (loiiipliiiM'iil to I'rincn AllVrd, who viMitcd lif-r'- iri
|H(I7, wIkih in ('ornrnjirid ol" Mk^ f liilaJra..

Alioiit. fif'frnii lioiiKCH ;i,r(i kcc.ii KCJittfucd over Jin
open HpfK!''. on flu* norlli Hi'h^ of t.lic, iwhind. Tfioro

fl of, I

if',r V'^o-

jin^ R(iV(irai (wirloHiiroH wliorc, pointocK an(

IjiMch nro ^rowri, mikI tlio iMhi.ndfjM p(>sHf;sK, in f;orri-

nion, Hofrir (our or five, luindn'd Im'JhI of cattle;

an(

a |)i(!n

til'iil

>lv of

Kiipply ot poultry ariM pitrH

AHtlioday ndviirifcd, tfic, wcatfi^r (•.\\'Au\:yA to wind
nnd niin, and it, waH witfi Korne difficulty all ^ot on

l)ojird

in Ha

fcty.

During tlio viKit to tlic nliorc a Htory was told of
two (lormariH, wlio had l>(!f;n living at the wcll-
narncd InacccHnihlc Inland 'M) rnilcH fartficr Houth,
who }iad voluntarily exiled therrisedvfiH with the hope
of ohtaining Kcal nkins, hnt lat,edy notJiing had l)een
lienrd of tliem, and it waHHUf>poHed they had perinhed.
Througliout the night tlie veHHel wan Bteamed across
the c}iannel, and on tlie following morning the land
wa8 closed, but nothing indicating life was at first seen.

''\

i
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1'^ :

I ;

■^

CliUISE OF TI.M.S. CHALLENGER.

A l)0}xt's crew, liowever, landed, and in a very sliort
timo tlio would-])e Ro])ins()n Crusocs were discovered
neai- a little grass liiit tliey called their home. Not
much ])i'essing was necessary to induce them to come
on hoard, when, after a good l)rea1cfast, they were
alile to tell their own story, which was as follows: —

+->'

THK STOKY OF FTiKhERIfK STOLTENIIOFF (tIIE ELDKR).*

])om in ]\h)Scow, of German parents, clotli <lycrs hy trado
in 1816, at the outlncak of the Franco-German war, I waj*
(■niployod as a clerk in a merchant's otlice at Aix-la-
Clia})olle. I was called on hy tlie government vo serve
with tlio German arniv, l)ei!i<j' attached to the ir)th division
of the sc'ond army, and hy the foUowini^ Christmas I
readied the jiosition of sec(md lieutenant. After taking
])arts in tiie sie^ijo of ]\retz and Thionville, the battalion
I served in was detached south to join General Werder's
army. At the finish of the campaign I was discharged and
returned home.

in Jnne 1871, my yonntrer ))rother, Gustav, returned
home from Tristan d'Acunha. where he landed with the
(!rew of a St. John's (Newtoundland) vessel, the Beacon
Light, which had been lost by tire about 300 miles to the
north-west of Tristan. The crew were taken from the island
by the NorthJJeet ^the ship afterwards sunk off Dungeness),
and carried to Aden, from whence Gnstav, having joined an
Ei'iilish steamer, came to Germanv.

]\Iy brother's account of the life at Tristan, and his desire
to return tliere, led me to join him in a venture to the
island, not with a view to remaining there by settling, but
to endeavour to realise a sum by seal-hunting and barter.

* Fov this story I am indebted to E. E. Eichards, Esq., Paymaster,
who wrote it at Stoltcnhoff's dictation.

STORY OF THE BUOTHEnS STOLTENUOFF. 97

With this view, after makinf; pieparations, we left South-
ampton for St. Hell na in the English steamer Northam, in
Aupjust 1871, and were landed there the following month.
On the (jth November we left St. Helena in an American
whaler, the Java, Captain Manter, hailing from New Bedford,
bound on a cruise in the Soutli Atlantic. We shipped as
passengers, and were to have been landed at Tristan. During
the passage across, the captain's account of the settlers at
the island, and the probable reception we should meet with
from them, was in direct opposition to my brother's de-
scription of the place and people, after a stay of eighteen
days only. Captain Manter described Inaccessible Island as
a fertile place with a valley running up from the beach on
the west side; and that the island itself and the next
(Nightingale) were the seats of a seal and sea-elephant
fishery. His knowledge was derived, so he said, from
several visits to Inaccessible Island, where he had landed
and seen both pigs and goats. Eventually my brother and I
decided to try our fortunes at Inaccessible Island, and we
were landed there by the whaler's boats on 27th November,
1871. We had with us a whale boat (old), bought at
St. Helena, with mast, sail, and oars, two hundred pounds of
rice, two hundred pounds of flour, one hundred pounds of
biscuit, twenty pounds of coffee, ten pounds of tea, thirty
pounds of sugar, one barrel of coarse salt (afterwards washed
away), thirty pounds of block salt, and a small quantity of
pepper, eight pounds of tobacco, fourteen empty barrels for
oil, five bottles of hollands, six bottles of Cape wine, six
bottles of vinegar, some Epsom salts (the only medicine).
We each had two blankets, some shoes and boots, and our
ordinary clothes. The captain of the whaler sold us a lantern
and a bottle of oil; but we had no candles. For lighting
purposes we had six dozen boxes of Bryant and May's
matches. We also had a wheelbarrow, two spades, a shovel,
two pickaxes, kettle, frying-pan, two saucepans, and eating

'n I'^lf

CRUISE OF HM.S. CIIALLENGEB.

utensils. For arms, we were in possession of a short Enfield
muzzle-loading rifle, an old German fowling-piece, two pounds
and a half of powder (and to this the mate of the whaler
added one pound of blasting powder), two hundred bullets,
and sufficient lead with which we made one hundred bullets
more ; four sheath knives (such as are used by sailors), a saw,
a few nails, hammer, two chisels, some twine, two or three
gimlets, a door, three spars for a roof, a glazed sash for a
window, and two iron buckets. Our clothes were in chests ;
and we brought covers which were easily filled with birds'
feathers, and made good beds. On the 27th November,
1871, we came ashore on the west side of the island, the
whaler leaving in a quarter of an hour's time, after giving
us a few potatoes for seed — and we had brought with us
seeds of nearly all the common garden vegetables. A bitch
and three pups accompanied us.

My brother at once started in search of goats or pigs,
c'iimbing, by the aid of the tussack grass, the side of the
'liff to the top of the island. He was too tired to return
that night, and failed to shoot any game. The next day he
rejoined me, and we built a hut for shelter. The whaler
crew had hauled our boat up for us. After a day's rest we
b^th in company went after game, and shot a j)ig, and saw
but failed to get near any goats. Four days after landing
we received a visit from sixteen men, in two boats, from
Tristan d'Acunha — which island was cleared of men with
the exception of two. The sealing season had set in, and
this was their yearly visit, hastened after learning from the
capt:nu of the Java that we had landed and were in possession
of four boxes and letters from St. Helena for the isln ders.
The Java, after leaving us, had been becalmed off '! i istan,
and during the night a boat had come off to her to procure
supplies. The captain of the Java, so the men told me,
lefused to bart r with them, being so short a time from port.

As soon as our goods were houvsed, it was our intention to

STORY OF THE BROTHERS STOLTENHOFF. 99

take advantage of the first southerly wind and fine weather
to visit Tristan, and deliver tiie four boxes, letters, and
messages from the relatives of the islanders living at
St. Helena. The two boats landed at the north side of
Inaccessible Island, and the men came round in their boats
to meet us. Their stay, it being late in the afternoon,
extended over an hour only, and during this time they
behaved very well towards us, and offered assistance, teach-
ing us how to build huts from the tussack grass. The next
morning we received another visit from a dozen of them
who had been in search of goats and crossed the island by
land. Tliese men helped us to build a small hut. They also
explained that the position we had taken was bad, and ad-
vised US to shift to the north side of the island. Bad weather
prevented any further intercourse for a couple of days ;
after which my brother and I crossed the hills to the north
side and were shown the road down the cliff by one of the
party, and the position of our future home. We returned to
our first position the next day. Up to this time the Tristan
people thought that we were going to return to their island
with them, and showed friendly feelings towards us. Our
goods were fetched to the nortli side by one of their boats
(luring their ten days' stay, and we ourselves lived there
with them for two days. I'eiiig anxious to obtain a cow, a
heifer, and a young bull, I made arrangements with Green to
bring them over, if possible, and this he agreed to do about
Christmas. After a stay of nine or ten days the Tristan
men left for their island ; they had procured (mly one seal.

This brings us to tlie commencement of December 1871.
We at once set about building a house, cleared some ground,
pltmted our seed and potatoes, and made preparation for
staying some time on the island. It was summer, witli fine
weather as a rule ; a splendid supply of water fell down the
side of a mountain, within a hundred yards of our hut, and
firewood was easily procured in the wood alongside of us.

u 2

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I i

'■'.

100

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

The seals were landing in different spelts, it being the pu{>
ping season, and we were able to procure nineteen ; the
skins were afterwards sold, and we were not able to make
any qiiantity of oil. Three sea-elephants were ashore on
the north side when the men from Tristan landed, but they
were not ca})tured. Our first house failed to stand the rain,
the pitch of the roof being too little. Tiiis necessitated its
being pulled down, and we shifted our quarters a little
nearer the waterfall, our water supply. Up to this time,
although hard work was necessary, we had experienced no
hardship; but our sujiplies of rice, flour, and biscuits, were
rapidly disappearing. Working on the beach every day we
were unable to climb the cliff in search of pigs or goats, and
thus supplement our first supply of provisions. The middle
of January saw the end of the regular sealing season. In
seal-hunting around the island our whale-boat, which was
too heavy for two men to handle, was damaged in landing in
the surf; but was yet serviceable by aid of constant bailing.
We had seen nothing of our neighbours; and only a few
ships passed within sight of the island, without stopping.
In the beginning of April 1872, the tussack by which we
had ascended the cliff close to the house caught fire, whilst
we were clearing the ground below by burning, and all the
tussack on the north side was destroyed. Our means of
reaching game being thus cut off, and winter approaching, it
became imperative to begin laying in provisions. With this
view we cut the whale-boat in halves, and, discarding the
worst portion, succeeded in making a smaller boat, which
would Hoat in fine weather. To tin's specimen of naval
architecture we gave the name of Sea Cart I By aid of the
boat a visit was made to the west side of the island, whence
we could climb to the plateau ; and shooting two goats we
salted them down. A fat pig also assisted our store, by
furnishing a bucket of fat for irying potatoes; the carcase of
the pig was too heavy for our boat when laden with other

r,;

STOBT OF THE BEOTHERS STOLTENHOFF. 101

supplies. The meat of the wild goats we found to be most
delicate and finely flavoured. In November 1871 the
number of goats we counted to be twenty-three, chiefly
rams. Of these, three were shot by the Tristan people, six
were shot by us, and fourteen remained during the winter.
The number of wild pigs v/as great ; the boars, although of
difftirent sizes, standing in some cases as high as a sheep.
Their food, other than roots and grass, is furnished in
endless quantity by the birds and their eggs, of which an
immense number are consumed by them. The meat of the
boar is rank and uneatable ; that of the sows wholesome and
good. On 14th May 1872 (by our reckoning) an English
ship came in sight ; we lighted a fire and attracted the
attention of her crew. Tlie Sea Cart was not in a condition
to go off to the vessel, and the look of the surf on the beach
prevented the captain from atteraj)ting to land ; and to our
regret and disappointment the vessel made sail again and
passed on. At Tristan d'Acuuha her master reported that
he had seen two people and a large square-sterued black
boat on the beach, but that no one came off. Had we been
able to communicate with this vessel, it was not our intention
to leave the island if we could have obtained supplies. The
winter set in in June, the month following ; but was never
v^ery severe, although we experienced a lot of rain, and
lieavy gales generally from the north-west. It never froze
on the level of the sea ; but during a strong gale from the
Bouth-east the Sea Cart was washed off the beach and broken
up. In May our first and only crop of potatoes obtained
that year was dug, and during the iollowing months some of
the other vegetables were fit for food. Unable to reach the
{)lateau, after the loss of the boat, our store of provisions
was soon so reduced, although husl)ande(l with care, that
we were obliged to diminish our allowance daily to a quantity
just sufficient to maintain life ; and at the middle of August
we were little better than skeletons. The male penguins,

i.'

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rr.i

102

CRUISE OF EJI.S. CHALLENGER.

forming [sart of a rookery about a mile from our hut, had
landed at the end of July ; and in the middle of August,
when it became almost a necessity to resort to killing
them for sustenance, the females came ashore, laid their
eggs a fortnight later on the nests already formed or
built by their lords, and we were only too glad to avail
ourselves of this supply of food. The day previous to the
penguins laying we had eaten our Ip.st potato, and were
without any supply of provisions whatever. The only
other birds within our reach were the night-birds, and a
few thrushes and canaries ; of these the thrushes only
were fit for food. In the first week of September 1872
we were glad enough to sight a French bark, which hove-
to ofi" our beach, and whose captain landed after seeing
our signals. We shipped in her our nineteen seal skins;
and in return for a lot of eggs, her captain gave us about
sixty pounds of biscuits and a couple of pounds of tobacco.
Fearing the weather, the captain of this vessel did not land
again, and we could not obtain any further supply. The
bark was bound to the East Indies, and had she arrived
a fortnight sooner both my brother and myself would cer-
tainly have been most glad to quit our habitation. A fort-
night on a diet of eggs ad lihitum had so far restored our
stn^ngth that we decided yet to remain. During the next
month our food consisted of eggs and biscuits from tiie
French vessel. In October 1872, on tlie 20th, a schooner
(fore-nnd-aft) was seen standing in towards the island.
She proved to be the Themis, a schooner making sealing
voyages amongst the islands in the South Atlantic, frt)m
the Cape; of Good Hope. A gale of wind drove her to sea
for two days, when she returned and communicated, binding
six men and boys in a boat from Tristau d'Acunha. The
ca[)tain of the schooner, who landed with them, was civil,
and offered me some salt pork and biscuits ; we accepted
about thirty pounds of tlie former and a small quantity of

STORY OF THE BROTHEBS STOLTENHOFF. 103

the latter. The schooner sailed the same day. Both of
us were anxious to take passage in her, and intended to
have done so on her return in a few weeks' time, wlien her
captain stated he would revisit the island. The interim was
to have been spent in trapjiing seal, the season for which had
commenced. Indeed, the next day we obtained the finest
skin of our collection. Altliougli civil in making us a
present of pork and biscuits, to which was added two pounds
of tobacco, the captain of the Tliemis declined to barter
except for seal skins, and of tliese we were unfortunately not
possessed. The men of Tristan had come over, they stated,
to see what we were doing ; but they had not availed them-
selves of the opportunity by the scliooncr of sending the
cattle promised ; and they excused tliemselves in different
ways for not iiaving brought them in their own boats.
Several small articles were appropriated by our visitors
during their stay of half a day, when they returned to the
schooner and lelt the island. No goats or pigs were shot
by them, and they promised another visit in a forlniglit.
During the next few days we worked hard to catcli seals,
with which to pay our passage to the Cnpe on the return (jt
tlie Themis. Tlie Themis never returned, and we were
doomed to disappointment. At the end of Ocfober our
supply of penguin eggs died, and we were compelled to
seek another sour( e of subsistence. On the 10th November,
our supply of biscuit and pork being exhausted, and the
weather being very calm and fine, ray brother and I swam
around the nearest point to the eastward, with our blankets,
the rifle, and a sjiare suit of clothes — th(? latter, with our
powder, matches, and kt^ttle in one of the oil casks. Stopping
the night at the foot of the cliff, the next morning we both
mounted by aid of the tussack grass to the plateau, and went
over to the west side, and descended to tlie vicinity of our
first abode. Here we built a hut, and, having shot a pig,
enjoy((l a feast of fresh meat. The next day 1 shot a goat,

I' ,.

;

t- ■ '

,i,T( .

„:„!(•

iiM ■

,■ ' ■ ' ' '

104

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

on which, with the meat of six otliers subsequently killed by
me, we lived till the lOtii December. The goats I found ha I
increased to nineteen during the winter. Keturning on the
loth December to our house, we arrived at the conclusion
tliat our stay on the island would be prolonged, and repaired
our thatch, weeded the garden, gatbered the early potatoes,
planted, and put things in order.

I have omitted to state that in fine weather, in summei-,
we fished from our boat with good success, and after her
loss, from a rock to which we waded at low water, and tbus
changed our diet. In winter time the occasions on which
it was possible to fish did not exceed three or four times ;
the weatlier and surf preventing our reaching the rock, and
the fish avoided the beach during heavy seas.

Whilst on the west side during this month, we were
visited by an American whaler (sch xmer), whicli sent in two
boats to fish, and from her we procured five pounds of
tobacco, three shirts, tvventy-tive pounds of flour, and six
or seven pounds of molasses, in return for Ax small seal
skins. The Themis was expected, or we should have gone
away in this schooner. On th ^ 19th December we were
aroused by firing and shouting, to find our Tristan neigh-
bours once more among us. They had spent nine days on
the west side of^the island, had procured forty seals and one
sea-elephant; and two seals from Nightingale Island, whcr •
they had spent a couple of days. One of our casks on the
west side they had tiken to stow blubber in, and we received
a small quantity of fiour in exchange. After staying hall'
an hour, they left, telling us that the Themis would visjt
Tristan the following month, and afterwards Inaccessibli'
Island. Although anxious to leave, I was not desirous,
except as a last resouice, to go to Tristan ; and buoyed up
bv the hope, again rc^vived, of an early visit from the
Themis, my brothei- iin 1 1 remained on the island. Tiiis was
the last communication with us until the arrival of the

'I 'I

STORY OF THE BBOTHERS STOLTENHOFF. 105

Challenger, ten months utter vn aids. 1'he Tristan men, during
their nine days' stay, liad shot eight of tlie remaining twelve
goats, and expressed tlieir regret openly that they had not
been able to shoot the other four.

The Themis we saw at Tristan in January, but no visit
was paid to us.

About the 22nd January I swam round the point again,
mounted the cliff", and succeeded in shooting four pigs.
From these two buckets of fat were filled. I saw the four
goats, but refrained from shooting them. The hams of the
pigs I threw over the clilf to my brother. On this occasion
I remained eight days on the hills, paying a visit to the hut
on the west side every night to sleep. At this time the
albatrosses and sea-birds were laying on the top of the island,
and their eggs formed a portion of my food. The young
sea-birds were also })alatablH.

On the 1st February, the day after I rejoined my brother,
a boat came across from Tristan, landed on the west side,
and her crew shot or took away the only remaining four
goats; for what reason it is difficult to say, as there is an
abundance of food of every description, including sheep, at
Tristan. Their object appeared to us to be to drive us from
the island. After a detention of a day, by bad weather,
the boat returned to Tristan without communicating with
us ; indeed, they endeav(mred to avoid being seen, or so it
appeared to us, who were in a measure unable to commimi-
cate with them. February passed quietly ; wo were living
on potatoes and vegetables from our clearings, mixed with
fat.

In March, our fat and potatoes being expended, another
visit around the point was made by both of us in company.
We discovered the loss of the goats ; but shot several pigs,
and lived on the west side for a fortnight. During this
time, on our excursions to the top of the island, we built on
the summit a small hut of tussack grass, large enough to

i: :!■ 1^

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106

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

hold one. The petrels had landed in November, and their
young in April formed a capital addition to our food. It
was now decided that I should remain at the top to secure a
supply of pig's fat sufficient for the winter, whilst my brother
lived below, and collected in a barrel the fat thrown down to
him by me. After killing a pig, the hide with the fat
attached was rolled up, secured by pieces of hide, and thrown
over the cliff. The wan., of salt prevented us salting down
the meat. Tobacco now failed us, and its want was much
felt, both of us being heavy smokers.

My brother, on separating from me to live below, had
taken three young pigs which we had managed to catch, by
running them down. Secured to our barrel they were towed
round the point and safely landed, although nearly drowned
en route. These vvere placed in an inclosure and carefully
tended,* being kept for a possible dearth during winter.
The pigs being small, it was possible, by means of a rope, to
lower them down the most difficult places, and carry them
down the easier ones. My sojourn on the top of the island
came to an end with the last days of April. Returning to
my brother, we lived on petrels and potatoes until the end
of May. A supply of two live pigs which I had brought
down with me met a watery grave in my endeavour to
weather the point with them in tow. I was fortunate enough,
notwithstanding the surf, to get ashore without serious
injury.

Finding the supply of potatoes insufficient for the winter,
on 8th June I again visited the top of the island, remaining
there until the 18th August. Before parting company from
my brother, we decided to shift quarters for the winter a
little farther from the waterfall, and succeeded in building
a house, which stood during the bad weather, and in which
we were living until quitting the island.

* The pigs were fed on grass and green stuff generally, and penguin
eggs when in season.

. \ .,• ,:|.

STOBY OF THE BROTHEES STOLTENHOFF. 107

The month of June I spent in our hut at the top, that of
July in a cave — the latter the better habitation during cold
weather. I saw my brother nearly every day, and unless
prevented by a high wind or high surf, we could hold a sort
of conversation. Gustav, whilst below, saw a large iron ship,
filled with people, pass within a mile of the hut. This
happened during the first lull after a heavy gale, with thick
weather. When seen, the crew were employed making sail
to clear the island.

During this winter we suffered no great privation, always
having enough to eat, although consisting of pig's flesh
only. Of flour, rice, potatoes, or vegetables, I was destitute.
I had a little tea; no tobacco. My brother was no better
off. As soon as the penguins began to lay, we set to work,
collecting their eggs, and were living on them, chiefly fried
in pig's fat, when the Challenger hove in sight. At this
time I had left my rifle, with about fifty rounds of ammuni-
tion, in the cave. Although the piece had burst in two
places, it was still in a sufficiently good condition to shoot a
pig. The fowling-piece burst, and was of little use except as
blow-pipe to freshen up the fire. Our knives we had lost
amongst the high grass, and the saw furnished steel enough
for half a dozen knives in their place. We placed the saw in
a fire, and cut off the knives with our chisel, hardening the
i'*on, then placed it in a handle, and it was ready for use.
Our clothes were still in wearable order ; boots and shoes we
were in want of, although mocassins had taken their place.
The medicine, providentially, had not been required ; neither
of us was sick a day. Eight or nine pounds of coffee
was still left, iiiid about one pound of tea; four bottles
of vinegar remained, but their contents were spoiled. When
together, the days on which we were confined to our hut
by rain passed heavily. Our library consisting of only eight
books and an atlas, its contents are well known by us
both.

.1 11

•<IV

I I

108

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER,

When met by the Challenger, our time reckoning was one
day wrong. This error, I suspect, occurred soon after our
landing.

The dogs left us for the penguin rookery, in spite of our
efforts to secure them with ropes near the hut. Tliey killed
a large number of penguins, and became very wild and
savage, paying no attention to us. One of them appearing
mad, we shot all three.

To mount to the top of the island on the west side was
comparatively easy ; the tussack grass was not necessary
to aid the climber, the ascent being made easier by the
existence of two or three ledges, on which a rest could be
procured whilst walking along their extent. The lowest
ledge might have been about twenty acres, the higher ones
decreasing into mere shelves. The top of the island, over
which we could roam for game, was about four miles in
diameter, almost round ; but the ground was much cut up
by ravines and valleys. The whole top was covered with a
poor sort of grass and sedge, and trees blown down by the
winter gales ; the sheltered spots only being wooded by live
timber, and that of a small description.

Close to the ridge, on the north side, there was a long
valley, through wliich the water of the cascade ran, and here
was situated my hut. The cave was on a ledge lower down,
on the north-east side.

To mount to the ridge on the east side, after swimming
the point, great exertion and caution were necessary. With-
out the aid of the tussack grass it would have been im-
possible to mount; and even with this an hour and a
half's hard work with hands and feet, and at times teeth,
was required. The height of the ridge was about 1200
feet.

On the north side, the beach to which we were confined was
about a mile in extreme length, and from 300 yards on the
right to 200 yards on the left broad. Our hut was on the left,

TABLE MOUNTAIN, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 109

the narrowest part ; but this was chosen on account of the
nearness of the water.

We remained during the day off the island, sound-
ing, dredging, and completing a running survey,
the brothers Stoltenhoff accompanying us to the
Cape on our leaving, which we did on the 19th
October. The strong westerlies caused the weather
to be of such a boisterous character that but few
soundings were able to be obtained on this section ;
however, what was observed proved the existence of
a deeper channel than was found on the west side
by at least 600 fathoms, the temperature remaining
about the same (33°).

On the 28th October the land was reported, and
soon the famous Table Mountain of the Cape was
visible from the deck ; the thirty-three days of our
passage had now seemingly quickly passed, and we
were still able to easily recall the many incidents at
Bahia, and the varied scenes occurring in the 3000
miles just traversed over.

And now as we near the African shore, with
its outline of peculiar shape, our. hopes and thoughts
fly back to other lands, on the one hand thankful
for successes so far, and on the other full of hope for
the future. It was late in the day before we were
fairly in for sounding ; serials and current observa-
tions had to be taken off the Cape of Storms.

Therefore it was about 4 p.m. when we anchored
in Simon's Bay, within half a mile of the shore, where^

110

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Simon's Town is situated. In consequence of the
case of yellow fever while at Bahia, two days' qua-
rantine was imposed, after which all were free for a
run on shore.

VIEW OF TRISTAN d'AODNHA,

. I

TABLE MOUNTAIN, CAI'E OF <JOOI) HOPK.

CHAPTER VI.

Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope, to Marion and Crozet Islands,
TO Kerouelen Land and the Heard Islands, the Antarctic
Regions, and to Melbourne, Australia.

Simon's Town — Visit to Capo Town — Disco sry of diamonds — From
Simon's Bay to Table Bay round the Capo of Storms — Anchor in
Table Bay — The Challenger's ball— Return ball by the residents-
Return to Simon's Bay — Leave the Cape — The Agulhas current —
The " roaring forties " — Christmas Day 1873— Sight and land on
Marion Island — Vast number of albatross and other sea birds —
Prince Edward's Island — Sight of the Crozet Islands — Frssage to
Kerguelen Land —Arrival at and description of the island — Leave
Christmas Harbour— The scenery— Anchor in Betsy Cove — From
thence to Royal Sound — Three Island Bay — Greenland Harbour
— Cascade Reach — Hopeful Bay — Rhodes Harbour — The seal
fisheries— Return to Christmas Harbour— Penguin rookeries —
The Arch Rock— Leaving Kerguelen for the south— The Heard
Islands — Description of the land — Leave the Heard Islands— The
first Antarctic iceberg — In the icy regions — The icebergs and pack
ice — Birds — Cross the Antarctic Circle — Early explorers of these
inhospitable regions — Wilkes' Termination Land — The Aurora
Australis— An Antarctic gale — Enter the pack — No signs of land
— Leave the pack — Dredging — A second gale— Shape our course

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CRUISE OF H.M.S. CEALLENGEB.

for Australia — Trawling—The weather — The last iceberg— Pass-
age to Australia — Land in sight — Arrive and anchor in Hobson's
Bay, Victoria.

There can scarcely be a landscape more gloomy and
desolate than the sterile rocky mountain and white
sandy plains which inclose Simon's Bay. Coming
from the coast of Brazil, and the heautiful garden
scenery of St. Michael's, with its luxuriant verdure,
the contrast becomes doubly unpleasing and cheerless.
The town consists of about a couple of hundred
of square white-washed houses, which are scattered
along the beach, with scarcely a single tree in the
neighbourhood for shelter, backf;.] up with lofty,
steep, bare hills of jr^andstone. The Naval Yard
occupies a prominent position, and is of great service
to the vessels employed on this station ; here repairs
are efficiently i)erformed, and stores of all descrip-
tions are to be obtaini;d.

The Naval Hos{)ital is a capital airy and well-venti-
lated establishment ; this, together with the residence
of the Commodore, and two or three churches and
chapels, constitutes all the buildings with any preten-
sions to size.

Shortly after our arrival, parties were made up for
visiting Cape Town, and having secured seats in the
car which runs daily to Wynberg, we started one
fine morning from Simon's Town. The road ran
along the seashore for some distance, which, before
reaching, appeared to consist of nothing but sand

VISIT TO GAPE TOWN.

113

and rock, but on nearer acquaintance showed up
many pretty little spots, with here and there banks
of charming flowers.

After an hour's drive we reached the little village
of Cork Day, whose inhabitants appear to get their
living by fishing, for there were vast numbers of the
finny tribe spread out in all directions to dry. Here
all surrounding nature seemed fishy, the strong
effluvia permeating everything, even to the trees,
foliage, and flowers.

From here the road leaves the coast, and proceeds
in almost a straight line over the plains which unite
the Capo with the continent. Tiie higli land seem-
*ngly now recedes, and as we ride on, the scenes
become more and more charming ; the range of hills
with the celebrated Table Mountain, Devil's Peak,
Lion's Rump, &c., is visible, beautifully tinged in
varied colours, while on the 'ielc we are passing Con-
stantia, with its renowned vineyards. On we go, the
road still leading through a park-like country, with
charming plantations of pines and oaks on either
hciiid, interspersed with elegant villas and stately
mansions. Having now arrived at Wynberg, we
complete the rest of the journey to Cape Town by
rail, and, on approaching our destination, obtain
glimpses of beautiful landscapes. Table Bay, with its
shipping, and the gigantic rocky wall of the Tal)lo
Mountains, rising nearly perpendicular to an altitude
of 3500 feet. On arrival we found convenient and

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CRUISE OF KM.S. CHALLENGER.

comfortable quarters at the Masonic Hotel in Plein
Street, facing a large square planted with pines.
Remaining here for several days, we had oppor-
tunities of seeing the town. It is destitute of any
imposing buildings ; even the metropolitan cathedral
and the other churches are very plain. * * * The
Museum deserves more than a passing mention ; it
contains a very good collection of natural history
and other interesting curiosities ; also the Soutli
African Public Library, the Literary, Scientific, and
Mechanics' Institutions, besides many other establish-
ments and societies for religious, benevolent, and
industrial purposes, attesting the public spirit and
enterprise of the inhabitants. The Botanical Gardens
are a most agreeable resort ; they are well cared for,
and tastily and prettily laid out, containing many
rare, interesting, and useful plants from all quarters
of the globe.

There is scarcely anything remaining to indicate
that Cape Town was founded by the Dutch, and
were it not for the yellow Malay faces, with their
gaudy he.ad-covering or umbrella-shaped hats, and
the tawny Mestizos, who remind us of the aboriginal
inhabitants, and give a complete foreign colouring,
one miglit easily fancy we are in an old English
provincial town. Generally speaking, any one ar-
riving here with preconceived notions of finding
himself amongst Hottentots and Bushmen, or in a
state of society differing materially from that of

DISCOVEBY OF DIAMONDS.

115

Europe, will soon find that he has been entirely
mistaken, for they are only to be met with after
a troublesome long journey into the inhospitable
interior.

There can be no doubt that when the English took
possession (in 1815) they found that a firm founda-
tion had been laid by the Dutch a hundred and fifty
years before, but the real progress of the country, and
the development of its natural resources, date only
from the commencement of British rule. * * *
Within the past few years great impetus has been
given to trade by the discovery of diamonds in the
colony. But the means at present g.vailable for
reaching the Fields are both difficult and dangerous ;
they are more than 600 miles in the interior, and
from Zoutkloof to Saltpans Drift (386 miles) the road
is over the Karroo Desert, which during the dry
season presents considerable difficulties to travellers.
Yet the wagons which start weekly are generally
filled, notwithstanding the very high prices charged.

It appears that the first diamond was found by
some cliildren who had been gathering agates and
other pebbles in the bed of the Orange River. This
stone (weighing 2iyg- carats) attracted the attention
of an inland trader, and was sent by him to Dr.
Atherstone, of Grraham's Town, by whom it was
pronounced an unmistakable diamond of the first
water. Systematic search was then made, which
resulted in the finding of numerous small dian^vvuds

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CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

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on the surface. About twelve months after the first
one was found, the Star of South Africa, of 83J
carats, was discovered near the Orange River by a
Griqua shepherd. This caused the search to be
carried on with redoubled energy. The soil on the
banks of the Yaal River was dug, waslied, and sorted
by Captain Rollcston and party, without success for
a time ; but after nearly three months' persevering
labour the first diamond was found in the gravel on
the 7th January 1870. Within two months the
party had collected some hundreds of sparkling
gems. Since then, the Diamond Fields have attracted
many thousands, and still continue to draw adven-
turers.

The area over which dijimonds have already been
found is very extensive, and how much farther it
may extend cannot even be conjectured. Suffi-
cient diamondiferous country is already known to
provide many years' employment for a large popula-
tion. Diamond-digging is certain to become a per-
manent industry, though, to insure its becoming a
profitable one, it will be necessary to work on a
different plan to that at present adopted. Larger
areas of ground must be obtainable, capital will need
to be employed, and such appliances devised as will
perform the maximum of work with the least amount
of labour. Companies worked by skilful and intelli-
gent managers, if backed with moderate capital, are
almost certain of success.

ANCnOB IN TABLE BAT.

117

The first diamonds found at Du Toit's Pan and
Bnltfontein were picked out from the mud phxster
covering the walls of an outbuilding at Bultfontein
in 1869. Shortly afterwards several Kafirs were
employed to look over the land for tliem. They
succeeded in finding a great many small ones on the
surface of the sandy soil. After searching on the
surface, digging and sifting the surface soil was
undertaken ; next, the lime tufa was bored into, and
now large " paddocks " are sunk to a depth of over
twenty feet in the decomposed igneous rock.

There is a tradition among the Bushmen that in
former times their forefathers made journeys to the
banks of the Yaal River to procure a small white
substance with which they bored holes in the per-
forated stones used by them to add weight to their
digging sticks. Possibly this white substance was
diamond, as the material out of which the digging
implements were formed was often intensely hard.
These perforated stones were afterwards handed
dov/n from father to son as heirlooms.

After completing stores, and having refitted ship,
we steamed round the famous Cape of Storms for
Table Bay. The forty miles run was soon accom-
plished, and the anchors let go about a couple of
miles from the shore. It was intended we should
have gone in the dock basin, so as to have given the
inhabitants of the town free run on board, but tiie
dock master was afraid of our size, and the damage

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CRUISE OF EM.S. OR ALLEN GEE.

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we might probably have caused to his jetty and bol-
lards, if a south-easter should come on, which seemed
very likely at this season ; so we had to be visited
at this distance, with all the inconveniences of again
reaching the shore.

A ball was given during our stay in the Com-
mercial Buildings. Our guests told us that nothing
so perfect and complete had ever been held before.
Concerning the decorations, they were particularly
enthusiastic, for there were, as novelties, trophies of
dredging and sounding apparatus, with flags, flowers,
and evergreens, giving certainly a very pleasing
effect. Suffice it to say, all passed off most agreeably.
The following night the citizens of Cape Town gave
a return ball in the same building, when ever^^thing
was done by them to insure success, and, without
any flattery, nothing could have exceeded the com-
pleteness of the arrangements or the hospitality of the
givers. ♦ * * The i^ext day the ship was swung
in the Bay for magnetic corrections^ after which
we proceeded to Simon's Bay to complete stores and
refitment. This was finished by the 16th December,
and the next day we steamed out of Simon's Bay for
our Antarctic cruise.

The weather was beautifully fine, and as Cape
Point was passed, and the high land of the Table
Mountains receded from our sight, a southerly
course was shaped : and on the 19th, 80 miles to
the southward of the Cape, we entered the Agulhas

TEE AOULEAS CUBBENT,

119

current, the breadth of which was found to be about
250 miles, and the temperature of the surrounding
sea was influenced to a depth of at least 400 fathoms.
It was intended to have made a close examination
of this enormous body of heated water, which is de-
rived from similar sources as the Gulf Stream of the
Atlantic, and exercises such great influence on the
climate of the Cape and its adjacent seas.

The heated water of the Indian Ocean, forced to
the westward by the north-east monsoon and south-
east trade-winds, has only one outlet, the sea south
of the Cape. On arriving there, it is met, and
stopped, by the cold Atlantic easterly drift current,
produced by the continuous westerly winds of the
higher latitudes, which is sufliciently powerful to turn
it aside and absorb it. It is then driven to the south-
east and eastward, the two bodies of watsr intermixing.
This drift also prevents any branch of the warm
current passing to the northward round the Cape.

The strong winds now met with prevented a
closer examination, but from the observations made
it appears that the water in Table Bay, derived from
the South Atlantic, is usually 10° colder than that in
Simon's Bay, 30 miles to the southward, which is
derived from the Indian Ocean. But on the approach
of a north-west wind the Atlantic water drives the
Indian water out of Simon's Bay, and occupies its
place. Thus the water of the bay is liable to sudden
changes of temperature to the extent of 10° or 12°.

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CRUISE OF n.M.S. CBALLENGEB.

I;-')!

The usual westerly winds and boisterons weather
of the "roaring forties" were experienced as the
ship ran quickly on for Prince Edward and Marion
Islands, lying 1100 miles to the south-east of the
Cape, only one sounding in 1600 fathoms being ob-
tained to the westward of them. Christmr ^ Day was
spent in these latitudes, with anything but seasonable
weather ; temperature of air being from 38° to 43°.

On the 25th land was seen, and the next day,
weather being much clearer, a landing was eifected
on Marion Island. One of the cutters, aitcr a long
pull through extensive fields of kelp (forming a
natural breakwater to the long swell rolling in along
the beach), reached the shore. A regular landing-
place was not to be expected ; however, by dint ot
jumping from rock to rock, a method far more agree-
able and better suited to penguins than to steady-
going philosophers, a footing was accomplished on
the firm soil.

What a scene of wild desolation and solitude met
their gaze ! Around nothing but huge blocks of
rough and rugged rock rolled about by the breakers,
sliprc y with half-dry algae. Still onward was the
order, and it was found on reaching the higher land
there was but little else than a wide boggy swamp.

The slopes of the hills are used by the prion and
other petrels as breeding warrens. The whole of
the wet, sodden flat lands was studded with large
white albatrosses sitting on their nests. These mag-

VAST NUMBERS OF SEA-BIRDS.

121

nificent birds covered tlie ground in great numbers.
It TV as evidently the commencement of the breeding-
season, as few eggs were obtainable. These splendid
birds, weighing 20 lbs., and measuring from 11 to 12
feet from tip to tip of wing, seen to such advantage
while in their glory at sea as they sweep so grace-
fully through the air, are altogether out of their ele-
m.ent on shore. In order to rise again after settling
on the land, they are obliged to run some distance
before they obtain sufficient velocity for the air to get
under their wings and allow them to feel themselves
masters of the situation. Three descriptions of pen-
guins were found on the island, in considerable num-
bers — the king, a black and white, and a small
yellow-crested one. Their breeding season was nearly
over ; but there were still some eggs unhatched . A
flock of pretty white birds, only found in these seas,
about the size of a large pigeon, was met with here.
While the naturalists were on shore, the vessel was
engaged sounding and dredging in the channel which
separates Marion from Prince Edward Island, in
from 75 to 100 fathoms, with good results. It was
intended, on the following day, to land on Prince
Edward Island, but from the unfavourable appear-
ance of the weather the idea was reluctantly given
up. After having accurately fixed their position, we
bore away for the Crozets, distant 600 miles. The
former islands were discovered so long ago as 1772
by M. Marion de Fresne, who was in command of a

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CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

French surveying expedition. In the haze wliich
surrounded them at that time he thought he had dis-
covered the Southern Continent, as they seemed to
be some miles in extent, with hills rising in double
and triple ranges, the summits of which were covered
with snow. About five years after this Captain Cook
sailed through this same channel, and not knowing
of their previous discovery, named thera Prince
Edward Islands, in compliment to the Duke of Kent.
From this date but very little was known or written
about the islands until Sir J. C. Ross visited them
in April 1840. Sealing schooners have called here
from time to time from the Cape, but of late without
any success.

On the 31st December, after a succession of strong
north-westerly winds, the first of the Crozet group
of islands was seen ; but the weather prevented any
hope which might have been indulged in of effecting
a landing ; however, the islands, six in number, were
all seen, and their correct position ascertained. It
is over one hundred years ago that they were dis-
covered and reported. Possessing no interest in a
geographical point of view, and having no resources,
they are therefore more to be avoided than ap-
proached. Very little is known about them, for Sir
J. C. Ross's expedition was unable to land in 1843,
and now the CJiallengers was equally unfortunate.
Later in the day the lofty mountain of East Island
was seen through the haze, and on it clearing we had

THE CROZET ISLANDS.

12S

a good view of this perfect mountain mass of volcanic
land, with its bold and precipitous shores and pro-
jecting rocks, which seem to have been formed by
the unceasing action of the waves cutting away the
softer parts. We stood up between the channel sepa-
rating East and Possession Islands, the largest of the
group, but saw no indication of tree or shrub. It
was intended to make a short stay in America Bay,
but the strong north-west wind prevented our reach-
ing it before dark, and encountering a heavy cross
sea, it was not considered safe to venture nearer. A
dense fog now setting in, and a heavy gale of wind
springing up, it was evident we were to be disap-
pointed ; so we stood off to sea, and the opportunity
of again closing the land was not afforded.

Favoured by a strong north-westerly breeze, we
advanced rapidly under sail towards Kerguelen Land ;
on our way passing several patches of floating sea-
weed. We were daily accompanied by many of the
great albatrosses and the large dark petrels, and still
more numerously by several varieties of speckled
Cape pigeons. These birds added a degree of cheer-
fulness to our solitary wanderings, contrasting
strongly with the dreary and unvarying stillness we
experienced while passing through the equatorial
regions, where not a single sea-bird is to be seen,
except in the immediate vicinity of the few scattered
islets and rocks. The strong breeze continued, and,
with a heavy north-westerly swell assisting, on the

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CRUISE OF U.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Gth January land was reported : at first a small islet,
known as Blight's Cap, and afterwards the black,
ronch-looking coast of Kerguelen Land (or the
Island of Desolation). Thick weather prevented ap-
})roach to the land until the next day, when it cleared
sufficiently to run into port, when the anchor was
let go in 18 fathoms, in Christmas Harbour.

In this harbour Captain Cook, when in command
of the exjiedition sent out to explore the South
Seas, anchored his two vessels, the Resolution and
Discovery^ on Christmas Day 1777, and, although not
the actual discoverer of the island, his were the first
vessels to anchor in any of its numerous harbours.

This inhospitable island and its surrounding group
are very little known, although discovered over one
hundred years ago by Lieutenant Kerguelen, who
had been sent out from France on a voyage of
discovery to determine the existence of the great
Southern Continent, which the philosophers of that
time considered was necessary to maintain the balance
of the earth. It was on January 13th, 1772, that it
was first seen, amidst fog and rain, when, in conse-
quence of the tempestuous weather, landing was out
of the question, and only a very cursory view was
obtained of the land, when he was again driven to
sea, and, on reaching France,gave such an exaggerated
account of his discovery that he was sent out again
the following year ; and it is from his second visit
that our present knowledge of the group is chiefly

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KERGUELEN LAND.

125

derived. AlthoTigh Cook and Ross afterwards visited
here, and added certain information, still the chart
is very vague, except in the delineation of tlie east
side of the island, which is very much cut up by
fiords, forming a chain of magnificent, well-sheltered
harbours. It is thirty years ago that Ross anchored
his vessels, the Erebus and Terror^ in Christmas
Harbour, which he describes as being nearly a mile
wide at its entrance, between Cape Fran^oiz on the
north, and Arch Point on the south, on which side is
a small bay, that increases the breadth for nearly half
the depth of the inlet, when it suddeidy contracts to
less than one-third of a mile, and thence gradually
diminishes to the head of the bay, which terminates
in a level beach of dark sand, extending across for a
distance of 1200 feet. Here we pitched our magnetic
tent for observation. The shores on each side are
steep, and rise in a succession of terraces to the
heiglit of more than 1000 feet; the highest hill
being on the north side, which attains an elevation of
1350 feet, and from its form received the name of
Table Mountain, * * * The weather being favour-
able, it was determined to make a running survey of
the west coast.

Jan. Sth, — Steamed out of Christmas Harbour, on
a course S.S.E., along the coast, surveying and
sounding as we go. The land is made up of rough
sterile rocks ; the shore indented with br^ys and
rivulets. The vegettition that exists is comi)osed of

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CBFISE OF E.M.S. CHALLENQEB.

mossy grass, mixed with a dirty brown plaut ; while
on the higher land were patches of perpetual snow.
Later in the da}'^ anchored in Betsy Cove, and re-
mained for eight days, during which time many
excursions inland were made for collecting speci-
mens, botanical and zoological. One evening we
were surprised by the arrival of an American sealing
schooner, from the captain of which much information
was obtained relative to this inhospitable coast. We
sailed on the 17th, and, before clearing the land,
encountered a strong head-wind, which speedily
worked itself up to a heavy gale. Under sail alone
we rolled and pitched about in the turbulent sea like
a plaything, causing woeful destruction to furniture
and crockery, while the masts and ropes creaked and
groaned, producing a perfect medley of sights and
sounds. The next day it moderated sufficiently to
close on the land, and later we anchored in Royal
Sound, the deepest bay on the south coast. The
scenery was very lovely, with a labyrinth of islets
interspersed over upwards of twenty miles of nearly
land-locked waters, sheltered on the south by the
Wyville Thomson range, containing a fine volcanic
peak, 31 GO "jet high, rising as an enormous cone in
the midst of a surrounding circlet of sugar-loaf peaks,
each dwarfed only by the parent mountain ; on the
west by Mount Tizard, and the toworing snow-clad
summit of Mount Koss, rising 6200 feet in one con-
tinuous slope from the sea ; while on the north ex-

THE SEAL FISHERIES.

127

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tended the Crozier range, 3250 feet in height.
After leaving Betsy Cove, we successively visited
Three Island Bay, Royal Sound, Greenland Harbour,
Cascade Reach, Hopeful Bay, Rhodes Harbour. Thus
three weeks passed in exploring the various shores
and inlets, in order to ascertain the position where
the finest weather might be expected at which to
establish an observatory for the astronomers who
intend (if our report should be favourable) to visit
here in December next to observe the transit of
Venus. From observations, the results seem to be
in favour of establishing a station here, for out of
the twenty-five days of our stay sights might have
been obtained at least on ten.

Jan. 2dth. — We anchored yesterday in Rhodes
Harbour, in company with two sealing schooners, the
JJetsy Jane and the liossel King^ which had been
fortunate in capturing twenty-two fur-seals, which
they were willing to sell at 405. each in the rough
state. The manner in which the seal-fishery is
carried on in the surrounding seas is both extravagant
and destructive, for at the time of the discovery of
tliis island it swarmed with sea-elephants, whales and
fur-seals. On this becoming known, it soon became
a favourite cruising ground for those engaged in the
**tr!ide." This led, in an incredibly short space of
time, to the reduction of all these species to a mere
remnant ; and in a few years their utter extinction
is sure to follow, for it can hardly be expected to be

128

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

''i *

otherwise. The men, engaged in such arduous
avocations as they are in these wild and inhospitable
regions, must be expected to make all they can, and
they care for none who come after tliem, but kill old
and young as they fall across them in their cruises.
The same might be said of the whales and sea-
elephants.

On parting company with the schooners, we pro-
ceeded iiirough Aldrich Channel ; the scenery very
fine — high snow-clad peaks and ranges of lofty
hills in all directions. When through the channel,
Blight's Cap and the Cloudy Isles were once more in
sight. Here we stopped, and a few hours were spent
in dredging off the Arch Rock, with very good re-
sults; after this, steamed into Christmas Harbour and
anchored.

The next day parties were away for surveying
and other services. The number of birds found here
is surprising. Although I had often heard of the
great numbers met with on uninhabited islands, I
was scarcely prepared to see them in such vast
multitudes, particularly the penguins, for the whole
sides of the rugged hills and ledges of rock were
literally covered with them. They averaged from 10
to 20 inches in height, with white breasts and nearly
black backs. The king bird and another species
have four or five yellow feathers, from 3 to 5 inches
long, adorning each side of their heads in graceful
plumes. They stiind erect in rows, which gives them

LEAVE CHRISTMAS HABBOUR.

129

a novel and curious appearance ; and the noise from
these rookeries was deafening. Besides these birds,
we were enabled to secure specimens of twenty other
varieties.

Probably there is no place under the same parallel
of latitude in either hemisphere which aifords so
scanty a field for the naturalist as this barren spot.
Remote, and comparatively bare of vegetation, still
there are several interesting points connected with
its botany. Though now destitute of even a shrub,
the abundance of fossil remains proves that many
parts were for successive ages clothed A^ith trees,
which were probably destroyed by frequent over-
flowings of volcanic matter, of which the remains
found and the numerous beds of coal afford abundant
proof; since that period it appears to have remained
in a state of almost entire vegetable destitution. The
end of January found us in Christmas Harbour (the
northern extremity of the island), the tranquil waters
of which were quite a relief after the knocking about
we experienced during the past month ; but every-
thing was now ready for sea, and later in the day
anchor was weighed, and under sail we beat out,
with a fine fresh breeze, passing close along Terror
Reef, over which the sea was breaking with suth'-
cient force to indicate its danger, and afibrding a
capital sight of the celeltrated " Arch Rock," an
oblong block, 150 feet high, of bedded volcanic for-
mation, like a piece of ordinary mavsonry, with a

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130

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

curiously si i aped arch, about 100 feet wide, worn
through the middle of it. On getting clear, a
southerly course was shaped along the land.

I^eh. 1st. — With a capital breeze we proceed on
our course, rapidly passing the land and some of our
familiar landmarks of the prectMling three weeks —
Mount Koss, Mount Campbell, Wyville Thomson,
and Crozier ranges, all snow-topped and glistening
in the morning sun. At noon we were oif Cape
George, and an hour later we had reached the most
southern extremity of this isle of desolation, which
was named Cape Challenger. A fair wind had
sprung up, and away we went farther south to the
Heard Islands. On our passage, sounded and dredged
frequently ; bottom from 200 to 400 fathoms. We
crossed the track of the Australian clip^^'^rs running
by the great circle route, and it was in one of these
vessels that Captain Heard, in 1853, first saw the
islands we are l)ound to. For three days very light
winds, with fog and rain, were experienced. This,
added to the risk of meeting icebeig.s, during the
misty and dark nights, made it anything but cheerful,
for it is very questionable if these islands are cor-
rect Iv laid down on the charts.

Prb. bth. — The fog continued, and for two or three
days previous, the c^y of the penguin, and several
patches of sea-weed, gave indications we were not
far fiom land. The next morning during a lift in
the fog it was seen right ahead, which we closed

THE HEARD ISLANDS.

131

under sail, and found to be a cluster of black, inhos-
pitable, i)recipitous cliffs ; Meyer's Rock and Mac-
donald Islets having quite a singular appearance.
A thick fog again concealed them from us, but having
bearings we proceeded until they appeared through
the haze at less than five miles distant, and we were
enabled to run along their eastern side, which pre-
sented truly a rough and rugged scene. These
islands, some 400 or 500 feet high, were perfectly
inaccessible, not presenting a point along their
rugged shores where it was possible to land. We
passed on, and another 20 miles disclosed a very
remarkable headland, which we found out afterwards
was known as Rogers' Head. As the roadstead was
approached, the squalls came down with great violence,
threatening to blow us to sea again ; but having
steam at command, we were able to hold our way,
and eventually reached the anchorage in Corinthian
Bay (or Whisky Bay of the whalers, so named from
the quantities of that spirit said to be consumed by
them on the arrival of their store-ship with sup-
plies for the year). All the places previously
visited, however inhospitable, really seemed paradise
compared with this wretched mountain of ice rising
fiom a base of black lava cinder. This largest island,
off wliich we are at anchor, is said to have its
mountainous peak some 7000 feet high : we had no
means, however, of judging, for the top was never
free from cloud and mist during our stay. Here

K 2

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132

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENOEB.

,•'

we bad our first glimpse of really Antarctic scenery,
for picturesque glaciers descended to the j^ea on
all its sides. Explorers landed and discovered a
party of sealers located here, " living " in a couple of
dirty huts sunk in the ground for warmth and pro-
tection from the winds, which frequently blow with
violence through a deep ravine. There are some forty
or fifty men distributed about the island in small
detachments, each party having a defined beat where
they watch for Ihe sea-elephants • o'.,;; on shore.
What a miserable affair a sealer's lite •? ■; <tly mu^t
be, hard and monotonous, living in tnose >L- olate
regions, completely isolated from the world ! Here
they remain for three years at a time, when, if Ihey are
lucky, they return home, with perhaps 50/. or 60/.
in their pockets. This is probably spent in a couple
of months, and they again return to their voluntaiy
exile and live on penguins, young albatrosses, and
sea-birds' eggs for another period. The roads (?) in
every direction were swampy and exceedingly un-
pleasant ; wading through the snow and slush, the
miserable huts were reached, looking lonely and
desolate, the shore for some distance being strewn
with bones and fragments, the remains of sea-
elephants, &c. Several excurssions were planned
during our short stay to visit the glaciers and the
per.Q'uin rookeries, for these birds seemed to be in
myriads, covering every ledge and precipice pre-
senting a footing.

THE FIPxST ANTARCTIC ICEBERG.

133

All those prearnuif^ed plans were, however, friis-
n-ated, for during the night the barometer fell, and
tlie weather put on a very threatening appearance.
The anxious circumstances now under which we
were placed on this inhospitable coast caused u
move to be made at a very early hour the following
morning, at which time it was snowing very heavily
as we proceeded to sea. Before well clear of the
land (for we had endeavoured to make a rough
running survey), the expected gale burst upon us :
still it was a fair wind, and the ship ran on pleasantly
towards the Antarctic ice until the middle of the
night, when the sea and wind increased to such an
extent that we had to heave-to. But it was not oi
long duration, and as daylight came, the weather
moderated, and under a bright sun and clear s? y,
\vith a favourable breeze, we sped on at a rate ot 9
or 10 knots an hour to the south waid, causing us to
forget the few miserable days spent at and near the
Heard Islands. During the next three days, we
pushed on under sail, the weather continuing very
squally, with rain and frequent snow-storms, the
temperature of the air being down to 33°.

Feb. llth. — This morning at an early hour we en-
countered the first Antarctic iceberg, bearing E.S.E.
to our course. On passing within a few miles, it was
from observation considered to be three-fourths of a
mile long and 200 feet in height. We are now
in latitude 60° 62' south, longitude 80° 20' west,

134

CRUISE OF n.M.8. CHALLENGER.

dredging and sounding frequently with good results.
From this time the icebergs became very numerous,
and great was the excitement on board as we passed
these novel sights. The rich cobalt blue tints blend-
ing into the white of the ice produced a very fine
effect. The weather was very fine, and each day
now we continued to meet icebergs of all shapes and
sizes, some apparently much worn by the sea into
cavities and great fissures, as if they were ready to
split asunder ; others of tabular form, with heavy
surf breaking up their perpendicular sides. Sailing
on, we pass much loose ice, evidently fragments of
broken-up icebergs ; and a beautiful white petrel,
Procellaria glacius, was seen for the first time. From
this we were led to believe we were in the vicinity
of large masses of ice, for it is known that these
birds never wander far from the main pack.

Feb. 13//i. — The weather became hazy, with occa-
sional snow-storms. Many large icebergs in sights
some of which are of magnificent dimensions, nearly
a mile in leiigtli, and from 150 to 200 feet in height,
with sides perfectly smooth as if they had been
chiselled ; others again exhibited lofty pinnacles,
with sides and ends of many-coloured tints, leading
into deep caverns open to the swell of the sen.
At noon to-day we were within 120 miles of the
Antarctic Circle. Continuing our course until mid-
night, we found ourselves in a fog, close to an
extensive area of brash ice, extending far away in a

ICEBERGS AND PACK ICE.

135

south-east direction. Fortunately at the time the
wind allowed us to back out again, and we hove-to
for daylight, when a beautiful sight was presented,
for we were close to the edge of the pack, whicli
from the masthead appeared to be perfectly solid,
without any opening in either direction. The
north-west wind of the previous day had apparently
forced all this mass together. Some hours were speiit
dredging in 1675 fathoms (bottom greenish mud).
A small number of starfishj some small shrimps,
and a few curious Crustacea and diatomaceae were
obtained. After dredging, we sto.xl on a westerly
course under sail. The novelty of being surrounded
with icebergs (for they were now so numerous that
we had to alter course occasionally so as to clear
them), and having on one side of the horizon a
boundless field of ice, with calm weather, and a
totally new set of sea-birds, amongst which was the
elegant, pure white little petrel (which became more
numerous), gave us intense delight. Experiments
were now carried out relative to the temperature of
the sea. At the surface it was found to be SO*^, and
at a depth of 1600 fathoms 26°. Snow and sleet
came on, accompanied with an easterly breeze, and
the temperature of the air fell to 28°.

Feb. I6th. — The day was dull and cold, tempera-
ture of air down to 28° ; wind light and sea calm,
so made but little progress under sail. There are
several large " bergs " in sight, and an extensive

*i. :i

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' "Si

186

CRUISE OF IUI.S. CUALLENQEB.

field of pack ice extending from tlie soutli-west.
A line of eight bergs and low masses of ice extends
from north to sonth-west. Ahout 9 p.m., in the
twiliglit, had a fine sight in passing close to an
immense iceberg, with its strange and curious form,
reflecting very brilliant blue rays in every variety of
shade. A magnificent sunset caused the liorizon
to be illuminated witli bright red streaks up to
10.30 P.M. by refraction from the ice.

Feb. 16/A. — The weather was remarkably fine, such
as is but seldom ex])erieiiced in tliese high latitudes
— bright sun and blue sky, with but little wind ; so
had recourse to steam, passing some magnificent ice-
bergs, extending in all directions and in every con-
ceivable shape and form ; for the most part having
flat tops covered with snow, glistening in the sun,
with smooth, inaccessible sides, beautifully tinted with
every shade of blue and green. It was about 1.30 p.m.
when we crossed the barrier of the Antarctic Circle
(latitude 66° 30' south), in longitude 78° east, situated
about 1400 miles from the South Pole. The sight
was indeed a grand one as we threaded our way
through the pack ice and up through avenues of vast
bergs, over a course never before taken by explorers ;
all this left an impression of those icy desolate regions
that can never be forgotten. It seems most difficult
to attempt a description, for all I could say would
convey but little of the reality to the imagination
of one who has not been similarly situated. Pro-

EARLY EXPLOItERS.

187

ceeding on to latitude 6G° 40' south, the course was
altered, and the horizon scanned in all directions for
land ; the weather was unusually clear, so that we
should certainly have seen it had any existed within
a considerable distance : none however was visible.
The Circle was recrossed, and we proceeded east
along the margin of the great pack. The icebergs
had now become so numerous that it was not unusual
to be able to count over one hundred and fifty from
the deck, and many of them appeared to be miles
in length.

The next day was very squally, haze extending
all round the horizon, and frequent snow-storms
occurred, we steering east for Wilkes' Termination
Land, which was supposed to be 440 miles distant.
This land, which was believed to exist, and whic}i
appeared on all early charts of the world as the
*' Terra Australis Incognita," was considered neces-
sary to counterbalance the land known to exist
around the North Pole ; but such men as Cook,
Weddell, Bellinghausen, Kerguelen, and others,
searched these inhospitable latitudes in vain for it.
Many years passed without anything further being
done towards its discovery. However, it seems that
the subject was revived in 1831 by Captain Biscoe
reporting having seen land ; and a few years later
another whaling > aptain (Kemp) gave forth a
similar statement ; both these discoveries being
between 66° and 67° south, and longitude 59° and

138

CRUISE OF E.M.S. CPALLENGER.

n!^

07° east. In 1839 Captain Balleay ref)ortecl land in
latitude 66° 44', longitude 163° east. D'Urville, with
his vessels of the French expedition, discovered (?)
Adelia Land and the Ciuria Coast (?) about the
same time. And in 1840, Captain Wilkes, in com-
mand of the United States exploring expedition,
i>ave forth to the world his discovery of the Ant-
arctic Continent, which he describes as follows: —
" In latitude 64° 31' south, longitude 93° east, we
made what was believed to be land to the south and
west, at least so far as * terra firma' can be distin-
guislied when everything is covered with snow,
foundings were obtained in 320 fathoms, which con-
firmed all our previous doubts, for on later observa-
tion a dark object, resembling a mountain in the
distant e, was seen, and many other indications pre-
sented themselves confirming it. Advancing to the
westward, the indications of the approach to land
were becoming too plain to admit of a doubt. The
constant and increasing noise of the penguins and
seals, the dark and discoloured aspect of the ocean,
strongly impressed us with the belief tliat a positive
result would aiise in the event of a possibility to
advance a few n^iles farther to the southward."*

This, to a ce.iain extent, they thought conclusive,

and fully l>elieved that an extensive continent existed

within the icy birrier, extending perliaps for nearly

I(K)0 miles near the Antarctic Circle, between the

• ' United Stuti'H Kxpl()l•in^' Kxpi'tlition.'

THE AURORA AUSTRAL IS.

131>

Balleii)' Islands and Enderby Land ; but this reo^inn
of vast mountains has such a barrier of impenetrable
ice encircling the Pole that there appears but little
probability of ever penetrating. The supposed exist-
ence of this continent was, to a certain extent,
proved to be erri)neous by Sir James C. Ross's
expedition the following year sailing over two of the
|)osition8 assigned to it. For another point of this
continent (?) we are now shaping a course.

F«'h. ISth. — The coldest weather yet experienced;
temperature of air down to 23^°. All the forenoon,
we sail through vast fields of ice, and large numbers
of bergs are in sight in all directions. Some of these
great perpendicular masses overtopped our mast-
heads by many feet. In many |:)laces, where there
happened to be a break, we could see the upper
surface, which appeared quite smooth, and conveyed
to the mind the idea of an immense plain of frosted
silver. Following in our track were great numbers
of sea-birds — albatrosses, petrels. Cape pigeons, terns,
night hawks, kc. As the day advanced, we rounded
the northern extremity of the piick, and sto(»d east,
intending to run on this course for about 2oO miles.
During the evening a beautiful view was had ot" the
Aurora Australis extending across the zenith, of a
bright yellow colour, its edges tinged with purple,
exhibiting at times vivid flushes of a bright j»ink
colour. A strong light appeared behind the dark
cloud, and afterwards pink yellow, and green

140

CnUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

'^!

colours were traced aloiiG^ its edges. Bright streams
of light frequently darted upward from the clouds
to the zenith, forming coronse, and exhibiting
l)rilliant flashes of all the prismatic colours. Several
whales and numerous sea-birds weie in sight.

Feh. 1 n//i. — From the great quantities of ice found
<lriftincr along our course, it apjiears evident we are
not far from extensive iiekls, and as many as eighty
magnificent icel)ergs were in sight at one time; thus
for days we sail on a straiglit course, bounded with ice
islands from a quarter of a mile to five miles in length.
The question naturally arises, how and where are
these masses formed?* That tliey are commenced
on the land seems to be considered conclusive from
the fact that earth and stones are fie(]uently seen
on them. After a time they are probably detached
from their original place of formation by some violent
storm, and the prevailing winds drive them to the
north and west, where they are met with in every
stage. Those that had l)een recently detached were
easily detected by their beautiful stratified appearance,
-wliilo others of older date had lost their original
form by the sea constantly washing over them.
There is a great variety of opinions as to the time
reipiired for the formation of these immense masses
ol" ice, for those met with farthest south, and seem-
ingly showing but little signs of decay, averaged
200 to 250 feet in height above the water. The

• * Uiiitud StuteH Exploriii^^ Exju'tlitioii.'

AN ANTARCTIC GALE.

14r

depth below tlie surface is supposed to he three times
tliat above. Some of these masses were at least
900 feet in thickness. Assuming the fall of snow
to avera<j^e an inch daily, or 30 feet each year, it
would reipiire thirty years to form one of these
blocks, which are found floating here in such

numi»ers

Their specific gravity varies very much, as might
naturally be expected ; for while some are of a porous
and snowy texture, others are in a gieat measure
composed of blue flinty ice. This ditlcrence is
occasioned by the latter becoming saturate* I with
water from the rain and fogs, which afterwards
freezes. ♦ ♦ *

Feb. 23rd. — Clear blue sky and bright sun, weather
calm and pleasant ; steaming amongst vast numbers
of magnificent icel/ergs, some like fairy palaces of
alabaster, with numerous caverns and arches through
which the sea dashed its s|)ray. The evening w;is
beautifully fine, and a very brilliant sunset illumi-
nated the horizon, shedding golden rays which were
again refracted from the pack. We are now within
20 miles of the })()siti(m assigned by Wilkes as land,
but with a clear horizon none was visible.

Fib. 24M. — This morning, instead of being able to
approach the pack, we were in a fearful gale of wind,
with a heavy and constant fall of snow which coni-
])letely hid the sinrounding dangers from us ; for
being in the vicinity of sucli vast numbers of bergs

i'J i 1

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142

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

)7|

)]'

leTidered oui- j)<)sition very perilous. Steam was
at coiniiiaiid in four boilers; i' was as much as the
engines at full d|jee(^ could do to keep station^ and
in a position c; u^idered safe from the ice. The
barometer fel] to 28-9, and the wind rose to a force
of 10 ; soon thei'e was a heavy and turbulent sea.
As tlie darkiK^sH of the night closed, the wind mode-
rated ; slill it was a very critical time, and all felt
glad when daylight airived, as we were then enabled
to shape a course for the pack under sail. Fiom
the direction the wind had been blowing, the ice at
its edgi! was scattered and sufiiciently oj)en to allow
us to push on to witliin 15 miles of the supposed
Wilkes' Termination Land; although, having a clear
horizon, no indication of it could be seen, we sailed
for two or three hours, ])icking our way among blocks
of lo(jse ice, varying in si/e from 5 or 6 feet to
(!() feet across, ;ind which no doubt are kept separate
by the continual motion of the long swell. Their
depth below the surface did not aj)pear to exceed
20 feet. The greater })art was washed into all sortM
of fantaytic forms, and showed evidences of dt 'av
and the length of time they had been in the water.
In addition to this, hundreds of icebergs could Ikj
seen from the masthead, jfaving now gone as far
as practicable in an undefended ship, course wjis
altered, and once more we reached clear water. The
weather was getting very unsettled; it was therefore
deemed useless U) remain in proximity to so nmck

A SECOND GALE.

148

ice, as a ■ .''iip* southerly breeze had sprung up, and
S(|uali^ weather set in, of which advantage wa> (..kei) ;
as it was considered that ai; y furtlior stay in tliesQ icy
regions would not only be atten<l('d with p<'ril to the
vessel, but would cause a delay \r time, which was
je(iuired for other services, and having nearly 3000
miles to sail to our next port (Melbourne), course
was altered to the northwa/d, and throughout the
remainder of the day good progress was made.

Feb. 2G/A. — Hove-to this morning for dredging
iVom a depth of 1300 fathoms. The wind and sea,
however, gave evidence we were in for another blow-
before leaving these regions, lest we should think
too lightly of the dangers of ice navigation. The
dredge was quickly hauled in before it had reached
the bottom. We then steamed under \\\q lee of a large
iceberg, which somehow or other we ran intxi, carry-
ing away our jib-boom and head-gear. Some little
excitement now prevailed, for the weather had
become so thick with the falling snow that we
could scai'celv see 100 vards' distance. Steam was
leady, and the KJiip hove-to, drifting to leeward
i)etore the storm, with the certainty, as we were
perfectly surrounded by icebergs, of sooner or later
coming across the path of one of them. In th*
afternoon, during the worst part of the gale, one
of tliese great ice islands was seen looming through
file nuHt, close to, and directly to leeward of us.
Witli the engines going at full spued, the ship just

pVZ

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ill

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144

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

iged to clear it.

After
k water

(ItO

wind, so

^•e enuejivoiired
it the violence of the
i difficulty in brinn^in^ the vessel head
here was no other course but to continue
our drift. As the evening advanced, the weather
cleare<l, and during a momentary lull in tlie storm,
while passing to leeward of another great iceberg,
the ship was brought round on the other tack. The
passage between the two icebergs proved to be clear
of danger, and the night was spent in drifting l>aok-
wards and foiwards from one to the other, the steam
enabling the ship to hold her own. It was altogether
a fearful and perilous night.

Feh. 21 th. — Daylight was hailed with much tliank-
fulness ; the gale stiij blowing its iitmost. However,
such fierce squalls are never of long duration in these
latituiles. Most providentially iiie weather, as the
(lay advanced, seemed to subsidv^ ; and as there had
been no mishap, we had mucii to be thankful for
in being [)ref crved from the dangers and perils of
the past twenty-four hours. Later in the day bail was
nuuli', and we again proceeded on our course. Next
noon we were Iji latitutle fl2° 2' south, longitude r>7° H'
east, and about 2215 miles from (^ope Otway, Vic-
toria. AustrabVi Before the strong favouriiig gale
good progress was made, eveiv one heartily glad to
lake leave of the desolate icy regions, after our late
experie!ice of what a gale really was ii* the Antarctic.

On the 4th March, in latitude 53 * 1 7' south, longi-

ANCHOR IN HUBSON'S BAY.

M
i^

tude 100° 23' east, we passed our last iceberg, but the
sea-water remained sufficiently cold for them to float
about in it for some time without melting until we
attained the 50th parallel of latitude. Whenever the
weather permitted, we sounded and trawled with good
reaults. Upon investigating the proceeds, it was found
to consist of nearly the same fauna as that discovered
further north.

On the 13th March, 400 miles from Cape Otway,
an extremely interesting haul with the trawl was
obtained in 2600 fathoms; GOO to 700 fathoms
deeper than we had met with since leaving the
('ape. The bottom proved to be of the same kind
of dark brown mud.

Tlie weather continued variable as we proceeded
north, one day squally, the next calm, with heavy
rain and fog; and not until reaching latitude
44° 30' south did fine weather really greet us; then,
with a favourable westerly breeze, good {progress was
daily made, and on the evening of March iGth land
was in sight, the first for forty days. Cape Otway,
Australia's south-western point, was ahead, and the
bright light glimmering in the chirkness of the night.
A short distance fartlier, and we are reminded that
our voyage will soon be at an end. Next day crossed
the bar, and passed Port Phillip's lieadland ; shortly
after Hobson's Bay was readied, and we anchored
in the harbour of one of the finest colonial cities
England possesses.

ini

t >

116

CBUISE OF ILM.S. CHALLENGER,

i \

I \\

< )

I, I

: 'l5!

'..m

P \

NumberH of infliitMitial citizens immediately boarded
TiH, otrering every assistance, and a cordial welcome to
Australian waters.

The city is some four or five miles from the ant-Jior-
a<i^e; but on reaching the shore, we found railway
communication near at hand ; so there was no diffi-
culty in reaching town, for which, through tlie
courtesy of the railway authorities, irce passes were
8uj)|)lied.

THK CHAM-KVCKIl AMONIJBT TI!K It K IN TIIK ANTAUCTIC UKniONS.

^-^

/a:

>N8.

DRKDOINO ON TlB rAKAMATTA lilVKU. HYUNI.Y.

(^ITAPTEU VII.

ilELUOUUNK (VicTOUIA) TO SVDNKY (NkW SoUTH WALKS) AND

Wemjnuton (New Zkaland).

MollK)\iriu'— -Th(! city uiid Kulmrlts— ViKit to HiiUftrat— Tlio city— Its
pold niiiu'K— Mt'nH)uriie to Sydney— First si^'lit of Sydney IIciidH —
Arrive ut Sydney, Now South WuIck — Anchor in Fiirni Covo —
Sydney Il!irl)our — Picnic on Mount Victoria -Zi^'/aj; on tho
Tireut Western Hnilway— The lUuu Mountains, and Valley of tlie
Ni'lMMin-Tlio city~!*aran)atta liivi^r— KluKleH— The dn d^inK pif-
nic— Kntortainnunts (!urin^? our stay — Karly liistory of the colony
— licavo S.v'iney— The stormy weather — Itettu'u and anchor in
Watson's Hay— Sydney to N(!\v Zealand -Daily sounding's Kou^'li
wentlior— Anchor for shelter in I'ort Hardy and Queen Oharlotlo
Sound — Man washed ovorlK)ard and drowned -Sight I'allisor
Hoads — Anchor ofT Wellington— Port Nicholson.

YiCTO!{iA i'h tlio wealtliioHt. <>( all iMi^liiMd's colonial
poBHOHHicjiiH ; lier trade exceeds tliirt^-two inillioiis

L 2

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KiM

trt

148

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

per aimum, with a yearly revenue of four millions
and a half, which is greater than that of Den-
mark or Portugal, and several other monarchies of
Euro[)e.

Melbourne has made a name for itself, and is un-
doubtedly the capital, not only of Victoria, but of all
Australia ; and though only just forty years have
elapsed since the first white man landed on its site,
it has already, with its suburbs, 240,000 inhabit-
ants : in otlua* words, it may be classed as the ninth
city in the British Empire, exceeding as it does in
population such ancient cities as Jkistol and Edin-
burgh.

It is adorned with fine public buildings, and pos-
sesses all the comfort and luxuries of a European
capital. Its internal appearance is certainly very
fine : the streets are all straight, and are arranged
at right angles to each other.

East and west are Great Flinders Street and
Collins Street, which is the high-street of the
citv ; then there are Swanson and Hourke Streets,
each filled with handsome business premises, banks,
theatres, opera-houses, churches. In fact, it is im-
possible for any one (particularly strangers coming
in from the monotonous sea) to walk its length
and breadth without being struck by its grandeur
and dimensions.

The public buildings, warehouses, and private
residences are lemarkable for their extent and archi-

THE CITY AND SUBinDS.

149

and

the
["eets,
|nikH,

im-
liiing
iiu^th
ideur

Ivate
rclii-

tectural heauty, imparting a most stylish appearance
to the city.

This most truly wonderful country, with its
enormous wealth, is enahled to devote annually
nearly one-third of* its revenue raised by tiixation
to aid public instruction ; a fact, I believe, without
])aralk'l elsewhere. Grants are annually made to
])ublic schools, universities, libraries, ])icture-gallerie8,
and museums, to schools of art and mining, and to
various literary and scientific institutions.

The universities and c(dleges are found with
talented professors on their staff in the varied
branches of science. Museums and national galleries
are filled with interesting specimens of local and
world-wide fame, and paintings of the highest
merit ; the free libraries, with thousands of volumes
on their shelves, are open to all comers. How
proud, then, are the residents of this Greater
Britain of their institutions ; and well they are
jiistified in their pride.

The Botanic Gardens, well stocked with all that is
beautiful in flowers, plants, ferns, and lovely trees,
are of themselves a perfect paradise of science to
those interested in botanical studies.

The suburbs, including R^'chmond, Brigliton, and
St. Kildf^, are very lovely sj)()ts : the foliage, the
charming' villa residences, with glimpses here and
there of the bright blue sea, all tend to complete
this pretty picture ; while away in varied directions

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WIBSTER.N.Y. 14580

(716) 873-4503

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150

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

are the public gardens, or Reserves, as they are
named, affording green walks and shady retreats,
and mainly assisting to bring much of the health,
and some of thf' pleasures, to those whose business
may keep them in town.

Sucli is tliis truly wondrous place — a city which
has risen to its present proud position as if by magic ;
but it is only another evidence of the energy and
perseverance of the English race.

While in Victoria, I had opportunities of seeing
much of interest, and to join in many pleasant ex-
cursions in the suburbs ; amongst others was a trip
by rail to Ballarat. On leaving the Spencer Street
Railway Station, after a run of somewhat over 100
miles, the destination was reached, which since the
gold fever of 1853 has been metamorphosed from
a few canvas tents to an extensive and beautiful
city. From tlie discovery of the riches of Golden
Point — the first opening of those famous "jewellers'
shops " — the progress of Ballarat has been steadily
onward.

At the present time there are about one hundred
and twenty streets, some of them containing hand-
some buildings ; there are forty or fifty schools
full of scholars ; hospitals, asylums, a town-hall,
and police-courts ; several banks, mechanics' in-
stitute, two or three theatres, gasworks, foun-
dries, machine-works, fiour-inills ; and a fine com-
modious market has been built ; reserves, and an

VISIT TO BALLARAT

151

ley are

•etreats,

health,

)usines8

^ which
magic ;
?y and

seeing"
mt ex-
! a trip
' Street
^er 100
ice tlie
J from
autifnl
olden
ellers'
eadily

ndred
ha' 1(1-
jhools
hall,
in-
oun-
coni-
1 an

extensive Botanic Garden, have been laid out for the
pleasures of the people. The merchants have their
Chamber of Commerce ; the mechanics, their Literary
Institution ; the farmers, their Agricultural Society ;
and those interested in mining, their hchool and col-
leges. But the rate of progress has not been con-
fined to the limits of the city, for thousands of acres
all round are under cultivation for agricultural pur-
poses, where many of those who spent their early
colonial days mining are now, after their toil, content
to settle down in the bliss of having a farm of their
own, and of sitting under their own vine and fig-tree.

0{)portunities were afforded for visiting some of
the famous gold-mines in the immediate neighbour-
hood, one of which, belonging to the Black Hill
Mining Company, situated at the foot of the hill
which gives the company its name, on the banks
of the river Yarrowee, was particularly interest-
ing : here is a most complete and novel set of
machinery. The steam-engine, a horizontal one,
of 100 horse-power, is placed in the centre of the
works, and drives six batteries of ten stamps each.
The quartz is supplied to the stampers by a self-
feeding apparatus, when it is reduced sulHciently fine
to pass through wire gratings, at the back and front
of the machine, having one hundred and twenty
lioles to the square inch.

A small quantity of mercury is put into each stamp-
box twice a day. The crushed (quartz is then carrie<l

K 1

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152

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENQEB.

through the grating by a stream of water into ripple
troughs containii.g mercury, extending along both
sides of the battery, and thence over some twenty-
four feet of blanketing; the material collected by
this process is conveyed into revolving barrels, with
half its weight of quicksilver, sufficient for proper
amalgamation. Heat is then applied, the mercury
evaporated, and from the residue is collected the
gold, which is afterwards taken to the bank or assay-
house. The working manager was very communi-
cative, and from him I ascertained that the mine
occupied the principal portion of the Black Hill,
and contains about forty acres. Tunnels, nine feet
high by seven wide, had been excavated at different
levels, amounting in length to over 3000 feet ; these
tunnels are connected at several points with the
open workings at the top of the hill.

Mining operations were in a depressed state at
the time of my visit, but a few years before they
were crushing here their 2000 tons of quartz per
week, yielding, on an average, about fifty grains
of gold per ton of quartz. * * * From here drove
for a couple of miles, reaching the scene of the
Winter's Freehold Mining Company ; and having
an introduction from Mr. J. Morrison, the manager,
there was no difficulty in seeing everything of in-
terest. At first I was struck by the appearance of
the surrotmdings, from which I was led to imagine
(from the tumble-down appearance, (fee, of every-

GOLD MINING WORKS.

153

to ripple
mg both

twenty-
3cted by
'els, with
•r proper

mercury
icted the
or assay-
}ommuni-
the mine
ack Hill,

nine feet
: different
set ; these
iwith the

state at
bre they
iiartz per
y grains
ere drove
e of the
1 having
nanager,
g of in-
rance of
imagine
If every-

thing) that it was not the rule amongst mining
companies to waste money in needless buildings,
or useless ornamentation — the test of success being
in their handsome dividends. I intended going
down this mine, but time did not permit, so had
to be content with a walk over the surface. The
workings are from 300 to 400 feet deep ; four
layers of bluestone, varying from 5 to 25 feet
in thickness, were cut through. The machinery
consists of two engines of 25 horse-power, one
used for pumping and winding, and the other for
puddling. At the time of my visit very few hands
were employed, the funds of the company having
run low, and the results of their findings being
very small ; but I ascertained that when fairly under
weigh, work was carried on in three shifts day and
night. Tlie cuttings, or wash-dirt, is sent up the
shaft in iron buckets, then by means of the steam-
driven puddling machines the useless is separated
from the good : a stream of water is now let into
the head of a long wooden trough, in which a
ribbed faloc bottom and movable cross-bars are
placed ; the puddled stuff is wheeled to the head of
this trough in barrows, thrown in, and worked back-
wards and forwards until the whole is thoroughly
disintegrated ; the large stones passing over the
false bottom, w^hile the heavy gold, falling through,
is caught on the cross-bars, the smaller gravel
passing to the botlcm, when it is collected by

• h

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154

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Chinamen and trucked to the waste heap. Several
hours are consumed in this washing process ; and I
was informed that some years ago they used to net
about 120 ounces of gold a day : then the gold used
to be lifted out in bucketfuls, for final washing and
weighing, before removal to the bank. The process
is efficient, though it seemed to be rude, and the
time spent in sight-seeing here was one of rare
interest and curiosity.

Tunnels have been cut in various directions in
search of the precious metals. * * * When these
golden deposits had their origin, and when the great
successive layers of bluestone were thrown over tlieni,
are amongst those lost incidents in the history of
creation concerning which science can do no more
than speculate. The extent to which these great
quartz boulders have been rolled, shows that they
had been carried a very much greater distance than
the ranges to which we ascribe their origin ; or tliat
they were shaken to and fro in some great con-
vulsive struggle of nature, such as the earth has
not experienced since man came upon it from the
hands of the Creator. Four successive layers of
basaltic rock have overrun at long intervals aiid
buried the golden stream of an ancient world ; and
so changed has the crust of the earth become since
the last of these great seas of molten rock passed
over the land that the craters from whence they
issued have themselves become lost. The stories

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Several
s; and I
ed to net
gold used
shing and
le process
, and the
) of rare

actions in
hen these
the great
)ver them,
history of
no more
lese great
that thev
ance than
; or that
reat eon-
arth has
from tlie
layers of
vals and
rid ; and
me since
passed
ce they
le stories

S UB UBBS OF BALL ABA T.

155

of these waves of fire and smoking floods are epics
of the grandest order. And now, after long ages,
in these calm and settled days, when our earth
is unshaken by the war of the fierce elements, she
holds these rich treasures in her bosom, and we probe
our way through the thick rocks and recover from
the beds of these ancient streams the precious metal
hidden there, perhaps, when the first great fiat went
forth, and the waters were parted from the land, and
out of chaos a new planet sprung into being, at the
command of God. * * *

After returning to the city from my mining ex-
cursion, I called on Mr. Bardwell, with whom I drove
round the suburbs, visiting Buninyong, a mining
and agricultural district containing 1981 inhabitants,
and passing through Sebastopol, a mining village
containing some 6000 inhabitants, where in all direc-
tions are to be seen evidences of the past — numberless
mounds and deserted claims, now being reworked by
persevering Chinese, who succeed occasionally in
obtaining a few ounces of gold from amongst the
debris. Driving back, we passed through the new
Public Gardens, and on reaching the city, I left by
the 7.15 train for Melbourne, arriving there after a
four hours' run, and then by rail to Sandridge.

During our stay various entertainments were
arranged for the benefit of the " Challengers."
Eventually it was with great regret we found that
we must be on the move again.

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CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

April Ist. — Tliis morning, under steam, proceeded
out of Hobson's Bay. The once famous city of
Geelong, prettily situated on the western arm of
Port Phillip, then St. Leonard's, Queenscliff, and
Lonsdale, are respectively seen. Steaming for some
40 miles through the inland sea, we pass between the
two narrow promontories of Point Nepean and
Lonsdale, and entering Bass's Straits, Wilson's Pro-
montory, the most southern part of Australia, is
before us. Having a pleasant breeze, steam is dis-
pensed with, and, under sail, good progress was made
along the land. Passing Cape Howe, the coast line
appeared steep, rocky, and covered with monotonous
forests of gum-trees; but as we drew nearer, the
grandeur and size of the cliffs and heights became more
and more apparent. On their tops could be seen little
specks of white houses dotted over bright greeji downs.
Sounding and trawling occasionally, Twofold Bay is
passed, with villages nestling along its shores. Closing
on the land, we stopped off Montague Island, swung
ship for magnetic corrections, and, after dredging,
proceeded for Sydney Harbour. Those who had been
on this station before, were eagerly questioned by the
uninitiated, as to the distance we had still to go, as
each successive bay or headland was passed. All
those whose duty permitted were on deck watching
the progress ; but what seemed to arrest our atten-
tion was the apparently impregnable wall of high
land stretching away on either side ; but we were

ABRIVE AT SYDNEY.

IBT

proceeded
18 city of
:n arm of
scliff, and
cr for some
Btween the
ipean and
Ison's Pro-
ustralia, is
am is dis-
3 was made
coast line
aonotonous
nearer, the
ecame more
B seen little
eeji downs,
fold Bay is
jes. Closing
,nd, swung
dredging,
|o had been
ned by the
1 to go, as
sed. All
watching
our atten-
1 of high
we were

told there existed an opening in this wall, leading
into a beautiful, commodious, and, in fact, the most
perfect harbour in the world ; but were it not for the
fact of the vessel heading direct for this seeming
barrier no one would have believed it contained
such an opening. Passing each successive bay,
we began to get a closer view of the land ; and as
we drew nearer the houses and villa residences on
the cliffs showed our proximity to some large town.
And now the Sydney Heads, with the entrance
between them, were clearly discernible, through
which we passed soon after mid-day. The South
Head, on our left hand, bears on its top a square
tower, built by the late Benjamin Boyd when he
founded a township, at the end of the bay ; and
on a mast near flags were being hoisted signalling
our arrival, which was speedily flashed by telegraph
to Sydney. The North Head, on the right, is a bold
precipitous rock rising perpendicularly from the sea
more than 300 feet. After progressing for about a
mile, another lighthouse was passed, named the
Hornby Light, which was erected on the inner
South Head after the wreck of the emigrant ship
Dunhar; this light marks unmistakably the true
entrance into the harbour. We rounded the point
and entered the waters of Port Jackson. The
lovely view presented, with the handsome villas
standing amongst trees and gi^rdens along the
shore, was enchanting, while the number of yachts,.

11'

It'!

III

158

CRUISE OF E.M.S. CHALLENGER.

boats, and steamers cruising about (for it was Easter
Monday and liigh holiday), and the weather being
beautifully fine, combined to make it one of tlie
prettiest scenes possible to imagine. We were now
seven miles up the harbour, and had passed Fort
Macquarie, Darbng Point, and Garden Island. A
short distance farther, and we are reminded that our
voyage is ended — the anchor is let go in Farm Gove.
Bumboats, sliore-boats, washerwomen, dealers in all
sorts of wares are swarming off soliciting orders.
Here we found H.M.S. Dido and the German frigate
Arcona. The fine view afforded from the anchorage,
with its charming surroundings, was very enjoyable.
Away to our left is a pretty little bay, its shores
surmounted by a rough-hewn seat known as Lady
Macquarie's Chair; while, stretching to the right,
are the beautiful park-like reserves of the Botanical
Gardens ; still farther is the inclosure, at the top
of which stands Government House, with grounds
sloping down to the sea, in a position of great
beauty. This castellated building of freestone has
an air of magnificence about it such as should
belong to the residence of the governor of so
important a colony. * * *

On first landing in Sydney Cove, one cannot help
being struck with the many fine buildings rising in
all directions, including wool stores of five and
six stories, the Custom House, and numerous betels.
Stretching round here is Circular Quay, having an

1. i

SYDNEY n ARBOUR.

159

available length of 3100 feet, wliere are numerous
large vessels aw Mting and unloading cargoes.

I despair of being able to convey to the reader
my own impression of the beauty of Sydney Harbour.
I can call to mind no other place with such lovely
glimpses of nature — nothing equal to it. Many
beautiful scenes are to be met with in our own
British Isles, but they dwarf into insignificance in
comparison with this magnificent land-locked ex-
panse of water and scenery spread out before
us, extending in bays, coves, and rivers for some
twenty miles inland, ramifying in every direction ; its
bold and rocky shores presenting a succession of pic-
turesque and beautiful landscapes, in which every
nook and headland is studded with elegant villas
and snug cottages, surrounded with park-like grounds
and gardens, full of orange-trees, bananas, and num-
berless semi-tropical plants, unfamiliar to the eye of
the newly arrived stranger.

Endless facilities are afforded for all kinds of
yachting, boating, and fishing, which are in high
fiwour. Capital regattas and races are frequently
held. The two Yacht Clubs make a very good show
as regards numbers, build, management, and speed,
though in tonnage they rarely exceed 40 or 50 tons.
The harbour is usually safe for boating parties,
+hough southerly bursters and other sudden squalls
are often fraught with risk to the inexperienced.

The eastern shore of Darling Harbour, which skirts

: I

IfiO

'inrisp: of ifji.s. ciiallknger.

tlie wostorn side of tbo city, has its froTit.if^e entirely
occupied vvitli wluirtH and (inays. Here all tlic inter-
coloiiiid stetmi compimies have their statioiiH; while
ferrv-hoats run in all directions to the north shore,
to Bahniiiii, St. Leoiini'(rs, and higher, to the town-
ship of Pyrmont, and so tor some eight miles up the
lovely Paramatta River, passing Cockatoo Island,
where is situated the government dry-dock, in which
we were on the 20th Ai)ril successfully placed, and
liad sundry I'epairs, &c. The dock is 400 feet long,
with 20 feet dei)th of water over the sill. Work-
shops are provided, with an extensive plant of
modern machinery, so as to be enal>led to undertake
any repairs to the vessels on the station.

I have no recollection of seeing in any early
work on this colony reference to the charming
scenery of Sydney Harbour, or the many navigable
rivers which are near it ; nor is much said of the
glorious ranges of the Australian Alps. But there
are scenes of nature here at hand as lovely as are
to be met with in any part of the world. A few
days after our arrival, invitations were sent by the
members of the Government to a picnic on Mount
Victoria, in company with the officers of the German
frigate Arcona, A special train started at 7 o'clock
from the City Station on the Great Western
hne, with a very large party of us; and as an
escort were the Hon. Samuel Lloyd, Treasurer, Hon.
Saul Samuel, Postmaster-General, the MiEist;^. ."

e entirely
tlic inter-
ns; wliilc
,rth si lore,
the town-
iles up tlie
00 Island,
:, in which
)liiced, and
) feet long,
11. Work-
) plant of
) undertake

any early

charming

navigable

said of the

But there
ively as are
id. A few

ient by the
on Mount

[he German

.t 7 o'clock

It Western
,nd as an

[surer, Hon.
Lie itotj^A •

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I ■

ZIGZAG ON GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY. 161

Works, and others. By 9 o'clock we had reached
Penrith, the line passing through orangeries, vine-
yards, and homesteads. Shortly after it was decided
to stop at a convenient siding for breakfast. Pro-
ceeding onward after this, we began to ascend the
Blue Mountains, which rise abruptly on the west
side of the valley of the Nepean. The ascent is
made by a zigzag on gradients, the steepest of which
is 1 in 30. The line, on reaching the summit of Lap-
stone Hill, follows a winding course on the main
range ; and for 60 miles it pursues its tortuous way
along the top of mountain ridges, until gaining an
elevation of 3758 feet. Near the Clarence tunnel,
on both sides of the line, is a vast expanse of moun-
tain scenery, covered with forest timber, presenting
a view indescribably wild and grand. The route
which the railway takes is the only passable track
over the mountains, the sides of which are covered
with many varieties of the Eucalyptus (gum-tree),
besides a profusion of flowering shrubs. Having
now reached the zigzag, by which tlie line is taken
along the face of a precipitous cliff, we descend into
the Lithgow Valley. This zigzag is the greatest
achievement of railway engineering in Australia, and
it challenges admiration for its handsome appearance,
as well as for the stupendous character of the under-
taking. This portion of tlie line, over which we
had travelled, cost in construction from 20,000/. to
25,000/. per mile. After an extensive survey, this

■Mil
I ' >

il
■'„h

162

CBUISE OF H.M.8. CHALLENGEB.

point was fixed upon as the least difficult for making
the descent, but so rugged was the place then that
those engaged upon the survey of the land had to
be lowered down the cliifs with ropes, to enable them
to measure and peg out the line. Two or three gorges
on the route are spanned by viaducts built of white
freestone, and one projecting rock is pierced by a
tunnel. It was altogether a most enjoyable trip, and
after spending a short time in the vale, which is over
ninety miles from Sydney, we retraced our way to
Mount Victoria, where a most excellent lunch had
been prepared. Ample justice was done to the good
things provided, and after a few speeches the train
was once more in motion, and we were speeding on
towards Sydxiey, where we arrived at 7.30 p.m.

The town is of itself both pleasant and interesting.
The ground on which it is built undulates consider-
ably, giving it a most picturesque effect, although
perhaps interfering somewhat with the appearance
of regularity; in the business part of the city are
George Street and Pitt Street, the shop-windows of
which would remind one of London or Liverpool, were
it not for the verandahs which stretch across the
pathway in front of each house. The other streets
avy all named after tlie old governors — such
as Macquarie, King, Blyth, Hunter, and Philip.
Anungst these, Macquarie Street is the most im-
portant, containing the Houses of Parliament, the
Treasury Buildings, the entrance to Government

SYDNEY.

168

House, the residence of the Naval Commodore, the
Mint, and the old Hospital ; but none of these build-
ings present any features in design worthy of atten-
tion, being all of old date ; the buildings, however,
erected within the last ten or fifteen years have
really some architectural pretensions. Its fine bank-
ing-houses, mercantile establishments, and handsome
public edifices give the town an aspect bespeaking
substantial wealth, advancing cultivation, and enter-
prise. The portion near to the quays contains many
of the best buildings for commercial purposes. The
majority of the banks are on the west side of G-eorge
Street, and these, with the extensive blocks of spacious
and handsome warehouses in their neighbourhood,
give a distinctive character to that section of the city.
In Pitt Street are three more banks; and here is
situated the Exchange, a large stone-built erection,
with columned front of the Corinthian order. The
new Post Office, in the centre of the city, now on the
eve of completion, is a building of exquisite pro-
portion, noble in its general outline and sumptuous
in detail. It occupies a space between George Street
and Pitt Street. Another great building in course of
erection is the Town Hall, the foundation-stone of
wliich was laid by Prince Alfred when here in the
Galatea. The Museum, on the eastern side of the
city, is a massive building, with a bold Roman front.
But the finest specimen of architecture Sydney dis-
plays is the University, a noble stone building in

M 2

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til

^1'

164

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

the Perpendicular style, extending some 400 feet
in length, situated on the top of a neighbouring
eminence, forming a conspicuous and handsome
feature in the Sydney landscape. The principal
courts of justice are in King Street and at Darling-
hurst. The first-mentioned, where the civil business
is transacted, is a large rectangular building of brick-
work, with arcaded front, decorated with Doric
architecture. The Court-house at Darlinghurst, for
criminal trials, is a fine stone building of the Doric
order. In the rear is the gaol, occupying a large
area, and built with spacious wards radiating from
the centre. Tiie private buildings or residences in
the neighbourhood of Sydney are of a superior cha-
racter, and are generally in the vicinity of beautiful
recreation grounds. The fashionable quarter, par
e.wellence^ is the east end of the city, the su-
burban localities stretching thence along the shore.
Here are most of those splendid mansions of which
gl ini})Hes are caught from the harbour, which they
overlook ; while to the south rises the important
town of Woolloomoolloo, which has become almost
as large as Sydney, and much more fashionable.
Beyond this we reach Elizabeth Bay and Rose Bay,
Double Bay and Rush Cutter's Bay, where cluster
various villa residences of the wealthy families.
Look where one will from the city to Darling Point,
and even farther along the coast, there are more fine
houses, many of which have been erected at great

f'.L IJlViSR't U I HUlBUii

PUBLIC GABDENS.

165

cost, and which for extent, tastefuhiess of internal
decoration, and beauty of their grounds and gardens,
are perhaps unequalled by any private lesidences on
this side of the Equator. Notably I might mention
those of Mrs. Carfra (Double Bay), J. Jackson, Esq.
(Darling Point), Hon. T. Holt (The Warren, Cook's
River), &c., each of which I had the pleasure of
visiting. Of churches, &c., I believe there are up-
wards of one hundred and twenty in tlie city and
suburbs, all more or less of imposing arcliitectural
pretensions. The cathedral church of St. Andrew,
in George Street, is a Grothic building, occupying a
fine site in the most elevated part of the district,
but it is comparatively small in dimensions, being
IGO feet long by 62 feet in breadth. The Roman
Catholic community are building a large Grothic
cathedral on the site of one that was burnt down a
few years ago.

The Public Gardens, where I spent many pleasant
hours, deserve more than a passing mention. They
appear to be singularly aided by nature for charming
scenes, which have been most cleverly taken advan-
tage of to augment the effect of art. The deliglitful
results are probably heightened by the beautiful
views afforded over cliffs, from under branching
palms, out of long avenues of stately trees, of the
bright blue sea glistening in the sun. Beyond this
rises the rocky tree-covered north shore, with villas
peeping out here and there, in strong contrast to

1 !;

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■!■:

166

OBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

the dark hulls of the Pearl, Challenger, Dido, and
other vessels snugly moored in Farm Cove. Passing
through the Grardens, we emerge into the Domain,
a ciiarming expanse of park-land of 138 acres, of
which Sydney has indeed cause to be proud. Every
variety requisite to produce picturesque views is
here obtained. The landscape effect, through the
disposition of the groups and avenues of trees, makes
it a most charming promenade. Near the main
entrance as we leave is an excellent bronze statue of
Sir Richard Bourke, erected a few years ago. Facing
this is tlie Public Library. We are again in Mac-
quarie Street, through which we pass, and con-
tinuing our walk a short distance farther, we
are at the entrance to Hyde Park, where is a
bronze statue erected in memory of the late Prince
Consort. This park is a beautiful plateau of 40 acres,
and as it is nearly in the centre of the city, is a
favourite resort of the citizens. It has a fine
avenue half a mile long, and is nearly surrounded
by plantations and clumps of trees, affording a
grateful and pleasant shade. On tho south-eastern
side a monument to Captain Cook is being erected
in a position which commands a splendid view down
the harbour.

More recently formed reserves are Prince Alfred
Park, in which stands the Exhibition Building,
erected in 1870 for the Inter-Colonial Exhibition held
that year, which was the centenary anniversary of the

I 'i

PARAMATTA BIVEB,

167

discovery of the eastern coast of Australia by Captain
Cook ; so it was a festal time for the colony ; and the
result of the exposition of Australian industry was
a thorough success. Every year the Agricultural
Society hold their exhibitions here; and in this
building the Society gave their annual ball, at
which many of the " Challengers " had the pleasure
of attending, as also those given by the officers of
H.M.S. Pearl and the Hon. John Campbell.

Belmore Park and a tract of 500 acres of land on
the south-east side named Moore Park are the other
recently formed reserves.

I must not omit to mention the Masonic Hall, as
it was here the Cliallengers ball was given, proving
a thorough success, and giving the greatest satis-
faction to our large company. * * *

Before closing my sketch of Sydney, I must return
once more to the beauties of Farm Cove, and the
pleasant times spent there. * * *

Beyond our anchorage the harbour wanders in-
definitely into all sorts and sizes of pretty bays and
arms of the sea, the longest being that which finally
ends in the Paramatta River, up which small steam-
boats run hourly. The scenery on its shores is very
charming ; passing rugged islands and cliffs and
rocky tree-covered shores, dotted here and there with
pretty villa i "^sidences. It was on its banks that I spent
some of the most pleasing of my days in the colony.
At about seven miles' run is situated "Rhodes,

I-

»»

in i

168

CRUISE OF lUJ.S. CnALLENGEn.

the residence of Mrs. T. Walker and family, wlio,
one and all, for kindness and hospitality, stand un-
rivalled. Theirs is a cliarmin^^ villa, surrounded
with lovely gardens, orangeries, and pretty walks,
overlooking the bright and picturesque river. It
seems impossil)le to describe the scenery as it should
be. Many talented writers have written of this place
and that as beautiful or grand, and by their de-
scriptions have induced great numbers to visit the
scenes so praised ; but as I possess no such power,
the task would be hopeless, were I even to attempt it,
or try to make others understand the nature of the
beauty of this place.

A few miles farther on the river is another
charming retreat, '* Yarralla," the seat of T. Walker,
Esq., a mansion replete with every luxury, having
extensive grounds to match, all laid out with great
care, where the varied and beautiful combination of
trees, shrubs, and flowers peculiar to all climates
makes the picture one of perfection. During my
stay amidst such lovely scenes, I could not fail to
enjoy the treat ; and I deeply regretted it could not be
of longer duration, for the end of May had arrived,
and our time in Australia was drawing to a close,
when those ties of friendship would be severed. Still,
although time and distance may separate, there is a
certain amount of satisfaction in looking back on the
days spent here with feelings of pleasure ; and I can-
not refrain from saying, both of Sydney and Mel-

'-5,*.-

DltEDGING PICNIC.

169

l»()urne, that as regards those with whom I was on
terms of friendsliij:.. their goodness, cordiality, and
nol)le generosity, combined witli that hospitahty
which makes a friend's house one's home can never
be forgotten. * * *

We had now been here (at Svdney) some sixty
days; and before finally leaving it was decided
to give a dredging picnic. This was to have a
number of friends on board, and take them out
into deep water, so as to let them see some of the
mysteries of dredging and sounding.

The day decided on arrived, and a large party,
chiefly consisting of gentlemen more or less in-
terested in scientific pursuits and maritime affairs
availed themselves of the opportunity of having a
cruise. On passing through the Heads and getting
into deep water away from the land, we steered for
a short distance east, and then for a while P].S.E.
The ship's head was then turned in a northerly
direction towards Broken Bav, and when about four
miles distant, soundings were taken in 40 fathoms,
and specimens of water brought up from various
depths. The dredge was lowered, and on being
drawn up, little or nothing appeared to have been
secured ; but small as the first haul was, it encouraged
other attempts being made, and a move was made
farther from the land, when several hauls of dredcre
and trawl were again taken, with satisfactory
results.

I'll

11'

u.^

170

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Many of the specimens of marine zoology were
vastly interesting, and in some cases quite new.

On each occasion as the trawl appeared above the
surface of the water the interest of our visitors was
very great ; the silent eagerness of the experienced
naturalist and the feverish exultation ' " the amateur
conchologist as they pounced upoi .i-ie newly dis-
covered specimens formed quite a lively scene, in
which the opinions of those learned in such matters
were often very amusingly expressed.

After mid-day we steamed in towards Long Bay,
where a dredge was lost through getting entangled
amongst the rocks, and another shared the same fate
soon after between Coogee Bay and Bondi, the
ground here being very unsuitable for our operations ;
still, other trials were made, and altogether the
results were considered very satisfactory. On its
conclusion we returned to the anchorage, and took
in moorings off Fort Dennison, at the entrance to
the Circular Quay, all our visitors, before leaving,
expressing that they had spent a most delightful
and pleasant day.

A farewell party was afterwards given to our lady
friends, at which there was dancing and other
pleasures suitable to the occasion in the society of
those it had been our good fortune during the past
two months to have met frequently at similar
entertainments on shore.

It passed off well, and gave great satisfaction to

,; I

ENTERTAINMENTS DUBINO OUB STAY. 171

all concerned, every one regretting that we were so
soon to part.

June 1th. — We leave to-morrow, and I feel assured
no one can visit here without being at once struck
with the singular beauty of the harbour and the
surrounding scenery ; and I shall not easily for-
get the feeling of regret with which my mind dwelt
on the thoughts that I was bidding it a long, long
farewell.

It was a lovely evening ; not a single breath dis-
turbed the glassy surface of the silent water; and yet
how eloquently that silence spoke to the heart ! And
as I leant over the vessel's side, filled with all those
nameless feelings which such an hour is so well
fitted to call forth, I felt, notwithstanding all the
temptations of promised adventure, the full bitter-
ness of the price we have to pay for its excite-
ments.

That we had been great favourites, and had made
many friends during our stay, was very evident, and
there can be no doubt that the Challenger s visit will
long remain in the recollection of our Australian
cousins.

It is worth remarking that the traveller, on reach-
ing these shores, should remember it was here
at Sydney where our Australian Empire was com-
menced, amidst dangers and difficulties of which
those in England at the present time think very
httle.

-jJMu

172

CRUISE OF JI.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Captain Cook landed in Botany Bay, wliicli in a
few miles south of Sydney Harbour, in 1770, and
took possession of the land on Ijehalf of the British
Crown.* But Captain Cook was by no means the
first to find Australia, for somt^ hundred of years
before this a Portuguese navigator is said to
have landed. After this the Dutch appear to have
seen a great deal of not only the coast, but the
various islands, which were then named Terra Aus-
tralis. Indeed, they did so much, and were so ener-
getic in their voyages, that they were quite justified
in calling the continent New Holland.

It seems now to us very strange that a people so
enterprising, and at that time so prone to get and to
keep territory, should have lost their hold on this
great Terra Australis.

It appears that they defeated their own object by
their own secrecy and selfishness. They published
no records of their voyages, neither made any
charts of the newly discovered continent, fearing
that their discoveries, or these great possessions,
should become too well known to other explorers.
Consequently, even amongst themselves the doings
of their sailors were unknown and unappreciated,
and no national desire was created for the possession
of the land.

It seems a Frenchman was the next who anchored
off Cape Leewin — the south-eastern corner of the

* Trollope's ' Australia and New Zealand.*

LEAVE SYDNEY.

173

continent; this was in 1()40. After this some forty
years elapsed, when William Dampicr landed oii the
western coast, and was, as far as we know, the first
Englishman to put his foot on the soil of our jj^rent
dependency. For nearly a century now, it seems,
English, French, and Dutch, with intermittent ener-
gies, endeavoured to hecome masters of New Hol-
land. It was not until some seventeen yeais after
Cook had really taken possession (in 1787) that Com-
modore Phillips, the first Australian governor, was
despatched from England with the view of forming
a penal settlement at Botany Bay ; out soon after
his arrival he found that locality altogetiier unfitted
for the purpose. Then he sailed northward, entered
Port Jackson (as he first called it), and created the
colony of New South Wales, from whence have sprung
all our Australian colonies.

This (June 8th) might be said to have brought
our visit to a close. Unfortunately, it was a rough
and boisterous morning ; so the plan that had been
in contemplation by some of our friends to accom-
pany the vessel outside the Heads was frustrated.
Instead, however, of their presence on board, the
white signals of waving handkerchiefs from the
shore showed that they were near at hand, and,
with all their good wishes, about 11 a.m. we steamed
out from the anchorage, receiving quite an ovation
on passing the Pearl and Dido, by the ships' com-
panies manning the rigging and cheering heartily^

I I

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174

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

while the bands were playing appropriate and
inspiring airs.

The weather ha^I moderated as we reached the
mid-channel, passing round Fort Dennison, Bradley,
and through the Heads.

On clearing the harbour we found a rough and
troubled sea ; so in sight of the land we rolled about
most unpleasantly all night.

June Wi, — A gale of wind and heavy and rolling
seas prevented any sounding or dredging being under-
taken ; and, as the day advanced, it was found neces-
sary to return to port once more, anchoring within
Sydney Heads, in Watson's Bay ; remaining here
until the weather moderated, which was not until the
12th, when a second attempt was made. Immedi-
ately on getting well clear of the land, soundings were
commenced, and bottom was found at 85 fathoms.
Eight or ten miles farther it was found to deepen to
120 fathoms; about the same distance, again, it had
deepened to 290 fathoms. The next day's soundings
indicated 1200 fathoms, the bottom showing sand
and mud. Course was now altered nearer the shore
until in a depth of 400 fathoms, when dredging
operations recommenced, but nothing of any im-
portance was obtained.

A heavy gale now sprung up, and we got into
deeper water, the next sounding giving 2100 fathoms,
with a bottom of mud. In this rough and tem-
pestuous weather the following day observations were

,* i

DAILY SOUNDINGS.

175

again resumed, and showed a depth of 2550 fathoms ;
and the next, 2600 fathoms; the temperature at this
depth being 33°, and at the surface 64°.

From this date the soundings commenced getting
less, showing 1975 fathoms. A day or two after
this it was 1100 fathoms; the temperature rising to
36°. These indications of shallower water were not
without cause, for now unexpectedly we came into
400, 300, and at last only 275 fathoms. This was
about 200 miles from the land. The question of the
nature of the bottom at this part, where the land
was being neared, was especially interesting and
important. Results showing that the bottom was of
a hard, stony kind, probably rock, wliich became
more marked the nearer we got to the shore ; while
the temperature had now risen to 38°, giving ad-
ditional evidence of a decrease in the depth of the
water.

Placed in the very track of storms, and open to
the sweep of seas from every quarter, exposed to
waves that run from pole to pole, the shores ot
New Zealand are famed for surf and swell, and so
we had found it up to the time that Cape Farewell
was sighted, when the wind freshened considerably
and increased in force, blowing violently from the
south-east, with a very heavy sea, and it was decided
to take shelter in Port Hardy (an inlet in the north
of D'Urville Island) ; and none too soon, only just in
time to escape th* fury of the gale, which lasted

i
lii

ill

,! m

Ml'

I ill'

176

CRUISE OF lULS. CHALLENGER.

all tlie next day, compelling as to remain until it
had moderated, when another attempt was made ; but
after accomplishing about twenty miles (in eight
hours), the ffale still blowing furiously, it was found
necessary to again seek shelter — this time under
Long Island, in Queen Charlotte's Sound, where we
anchored for the night. At daylight next morning
we made a successful run across Cook's Straits, and,
fortunately, having a strong tide in our favour, it
enabled us to beat up under steam and sail. When
about ten miles off the anchorage, we were visited with
an unlooked-for calamity. Edward Winton, A.B., who
was standing in the forechains heaving the lead,
was washed overboard by the heavy sea. He was
not missed for some minutes, when the engines
were stopped and the vessel immediately rounded to,
but no trace of him could be seen ; he must have
gone down at once in the turbulent sea running at
the time. The gloom which the loss of one of our
small party occasioned was felt by every one on
board. On nearing port, we were glad to escape the
long rolling seas that seemed to surge up from the
Antarctic. Our observation showed that not only
was the intervening ocean we had just passed over
wild and stormy, but that New Zealand invariably
presents a rough and rugged coast, backed by tower-
ing mountains, with frightful chasms and tremendous
cliffs surrounding them on every side. Experiencing
such unfavourable weather, it prevented much use of

ifcu

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e ; but

eight

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our, it

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engines

Bncnig
use of

ANCHOR OFF WELLINGTON.

177

the dredge ; still the few hauls obtained, although
producing many interesting and rare specimens, indi-
cated that the bottom in this locaHty is, for some
reason, more scantily supplied with animal life than
many other more favoured regions.

On the 28th June we sighted the Heads with
their frowning cliffs, where the bold bluff, coming
sheer down 3000 feet, receives the full shock of the
South Seas. This was an introduction to the wild
and grand scenery of New Zealand. Our troubles
were over for a while, for within a few hours we
were in smooth water, running up the great sea-lake
of Port Nicholson towards long lines of vessels lying
at the Queen's Wharf, behind which stretched away
the houses, &c., comprising the City of Wellington ;
off here we came to anchor.

'li

\m 1

' ■ill

NATIVES OF TONGATABU, FRIENDLY ISLANDS.

CHAPTER Yin.

Weimnqton (New Zealand) to Frikndly and Fiji Islands, to
THE New Hebrides Group, and to Somerset, Cape York
(Queensland, Australia).

At Wollington — Results of the poiindinprs— Formation of the bottom —
Description of the city — Australia and New Zealand — Leave Wel-
lington— Squally weni hen*— Sight tlie Kerniadec Islands — Sounding
and trawling — The Friendly Islands— Eoa—Tongatabu — Anchor
oflf Nukalofa Tonga— The village: its natives — Tapa : its manu-
facture -Captain Croker's attack on Boa, and the result— Foliage
and scenery — Leave Tongatalm — Passage to Fiji— Off Matuki —
Anchor in Ngola Bay, Kandavu — Kandavu to Levuka — Anchor
off Levuka— lleturn to Kandavu—Natives of the Now Hebrides

^8.-

|i Islands, to
Cai'E York

; the bottom-
Id— Leave ^Vel-
Vd!^— Souiidinp
ktabu— Anchor
Lpa : its manu-
V-snlt-Foli'^^^
-Off Matuki—
^vuka—Anchor
Now Hebrides

BESULTS OF THE SOUNDINGS.

179

on board for passage to Api — Snrvey Ngola Bay — The sceneiv —
Tattooing— Meke Meke— Leave Fiji for the New Hebrides — Off
Api — The natives land — The landing, and what was seen — Sound-
ing and dredging — On our way again— In the Coral Sea — Off the
Louisiade Archipelago — Raine Island — The Barrier Reefs — Anchor
off Bird Island — Arrive at Somerset, Capo York, Queensland.

The special object of our visit was to ascertain the
oceanic section between Sydney and Wellington.
The information oltained removes the last elements
of uncertainty in the matter of submarine telegraphy
between Australia and New Zealand, for during
some time past the governments of the respective
colonies have been negotiating on this subject. The
soundings show that the depths increase gradually
after leaving Sydney, but that the extreme deepness
does not vary much for some hundreds of miles in
mid-ocean, the water again decreasing as the coast
of New Zealand is approached. For the greater part
of the way across, the bottom was found to be very
favourable for the repose of a light cable, it being
composed of mud and sand. It is only when the
shores of this coast are nearly reached that the
bottom becomes of a somewhat doubtful character;
a stronger cable will therefore be required for the
shore end. In all probability, now that these correct
data have been ascertained, we shall find very
shortly that New Zealand, like the Australian
colonies, will be in instantaneous communication
with Eui'ope and America.

Wellington, which since 1864 has been the capital

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180

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

of New Zealand, the residence of the Governor (Sir
James Ferguson), and seat of the Legislative Assembly,
is but a small straggling city containing between 8000
and 9000 inhabitants. It is built almost exclusively
of wood, the use of which has been found necessary,
from the frequency of earthquakes. The position it
occupies — lying high up in a bay — gives it a some-
what pretty appearance, surrounded as it is by
mountainous land. To us, just coming from Sydney
with all its gaieties, Wellington seemed a poor, dull
place, especially at this season of the year. Possibly
it brightens up a little when the Legislative Assembly
is sitting. Auckland was the capital from 1840 to
the date when this was chosen, which was not on
account of its commercial prosperity, but because it
was more centrally situated for political purposes.
Had the weather been fine during our stay, there
were several interesting spots round Wellington that
might have been visited; for within two or three
miles are the remains of an old forest ; while up the
valley of the Hutt is still a Maori village, to which
a line of railway runs ; and the Horokiwi valley, a
beautiful glen 40 miles out of town, is well worth
seeing. Near at hand are the Botanical Gardens,
neatly laid out, and possessing great advantages in
the position of the land and the shapes of the sur-
rounding hills.

Perhaps no two countries in the world, within
such a short distance of each other, are so wholly dis-

t'nct as Austialia 'Z^Z~Z~r~, '

natives are Polynesian !" . '"'^- ^ere the

- the South 8 rS T *° ■"''^^ "' 'f'°- '°«nd
are of the ne gt t^^ n "'^ ^"^'^'"'^'^ ^'->-es
a- equally di^.-^ i zT''/"' ''''"'^*^ ■"'-
origin: hence high rnoul 1- "^ '' ^'''-"'«

on al„,ost every 7d, Tf ' °^'^' ^"^^-""^ it
through the length of h .1 m "^ '"''"»*^""« rnns

-d eternal Lvfs; eart 'uat",:^ '" '''''''''
-tive volcanoes are not nnknol "n"™?"' ""^
damp and stormy and tl, .7'. " "''"''"« '«
tangled .a^s o'^^ngt ll ^V^ ""^'^'^ ^'^
t° all this, even the tr;, 1 1" . '" «'^^''■•-
^'•e the fauna and flora T ! > '''""'■''^*' ''^
West) possesses a semiXopical ct T f "'' ^""^
a« great a variety hetZZt,"' ^"'' '^''^ ''
t^wns as between the Id,. I ' ""^ *'''' '"'^nd
and the moors of S otlan^^ ^1,"""^'" "' '^"^'-^l
S™-m the gard „ of% H "^'^ *''°^'''=''' P'-ts

'ail is sufficient to "li 'T' ' '^'"' ^"" ^7

i-its, flowers, and grit a T*' "'^" ^--'-^^^

, c*uu glasses are cultivaf^^ • i
success. ^Liiiivated with great

o" the afternoon of the eh f 7^"' '"'^'^"''^
biowingveryfiercelyf om! {' ''"'°"^'' '* ^''^

^e had harjiy e£:zfs:T7rr^''-

1 4'

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iii'

182

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER,

in, causing us to let go the anclior in Worser Bay,
where wo remained for the night.

The next morning the weather had moderated
sufficiently for us to make a start. On getting
through Cook's Straits, we made sail, and did a little
sounding and dredging, but after a few days out, a
gale drove us fast to the northward, and so prevented
our completing the section, which had been so much
desired ; as the similarity of the flora of New Zealand
to that of its neighbouring lands indicates that they
were at one time joined, and that New Zealand was
part of a large continent embracing the islands to the
south and east of it, and also the Kermadec group and
Norfolk and Lord Howe's Islands, near the Australian
shore. If the weather had been favourable, a few
soundings would have helped to settle this interesting
question.

On the 13th we passed within a short distance of
a dangerous reef, indicated as Esperanza Rock, and
at daylight the next morning land was seen, and
proved to be the islands comprising the Kermadec
group. They were first reported by Admiral d'En-
Trecasteaux, who saw them on March 15, 1793. This
cluster of rocky islets, from their hidden reefs, &c.,
is to be avoided rather than approached. The
largest, Sunday Island, is not more than 12 miles in
circumference: its highest point is 1627 feet above
the level of the sea, presenting a rugged and steep
appearance. Until recently an American family was

; ii

TUB FlUENDLY ISLANDS.

183

living here, earning a very precarious livelihood by
supplying the whalers which happened to call with
poultry and vegetables, but the frequency of earth-
quakes, and a sudden eruption of the volcano, forced
them to abandon it. At present it is understood
that no one is living on the island. The others,
named Curtis and Macaulay, are not more than 800
feet above the sea, and only from one to three
miles in extent. We dredged here with great
success from a depth of 700 fathoms, the rich ground
yielding some very fine sponges, pentacrinus, asterlas,
and other stalked starfish, and many varieties of
deep-sea fish, and other things of interest. The
weather continued of a very squally character. On
the 17th we sounded, and somewhat unexpectedly
came on a depth of 2850 fathoms, the deepest
water found since leaving the Atlantic. The bottom
was composed of red clay, without the least trace of
carbonate of lime, which is usually found in deep
water. At daylight on the 19th land was in sight,
and as we proceeded, we were soon almost sur-
rounded with islands and small rocks, some only
giving indication of their position by the surf break-
ing over them : many are not more than 30 or
40 feet above the surface, but in most cases are
covered with dense vegetation. Eoa Island was
passed at 11, and by noon we came to anchor off'
Tongatabu, the principal island in the Friendly
group.

184

CRUISE OF H.MS. CHALLENGEB.

I 11 !

ifi

We were soon surrounded with canoes and natives,
who were indeed fine fellows, of a liglit brown com-
plexion. These people have been described as the
flower of the Polynesian race, and those alongside
seemed worthy of the title.

Only a short stay was made at this interesting-
group of the Western Pacific, as it was necessary to
get on our way, so as to meet the favourable mon-
soons in the Chinese seas. But, short as it was, every
opportunity was taken of seeing the surrounding
country.

The town of Nukalofa, off which we anchored,
is prettily situated in a bread-fruit and cocoa-nut
grove, which gives it a pleasing sliady appearance,
and yet is sufiiciently open to admit the cool refresh-
ing breezes of the trade-wind. Facing the sea are
the government offices, the residence of the king, the
governor, &c., while the native houses are prettily
situated in a valley at the back. The houses are
lightly constructed of bamboo and palm leaves, and
are, for the most part, surrounded with little in-
closures, shut in by fences made of cocoa-nut fibre
and leaves, shaded by bread-fruit and other varieties
of tropical trees of luxuriant foliage.

We had frequent opportunities of seeing the king,
who, since embracing Christianity, has taken the
name of George Tabu ; he and his queen, Charlotte,
expressed a wish during our stay to have their
portraits taken. This was attended to, and for the

*■' .a,..

.^Si6V^;,;^.««.^i^vt'..>^v>H<fe*«;■>jS««iiiS!«*«

THE TONOANS.

185

uses are

occasion tlieir Majesties were got up in regal attire :
George I., in naval uniform coat, with four gold lace
Btripes surmounted with a crown, and laced trousei's ;
while Queen Charlotte was attired in a light muslin
costume of European make.

His Majesty is a tall, hale old gentleman, at least
eighty years of age, who doubtltss during his early
days saw much fighting, and was probably mixed up
with most stirring affairs in his native land ; for,
in a conversation with his secretary, or Prime
Minister (who is an American gentlemen), we were
informed that during his younger days he had the
reputation of being a distinguished warrior. But
since embracing Christianity, he has continued to
devote himself to the business of State and the
improvement of his subjects.

The Tongans have by some travellers been styled
the Anglo-Saxons of tlie South Seas. They are
a fine race, tall, robust, and of a lighter com-
plexion than the inhabitants of the adjacent isles ;
they have little or no beard, their noses are some-
what flat with wide nostrils, yet many of the men
and women might pass for handsome types. The
women follow the fashion of the men, cutting their
hair very short, and staining it with chinam, which
gives it a reddish tinge.

The dress of both sexes is made of similar material,
but is difierently arranged. The fabric (tapa) is made
from the bark of a tree extensively cultivated through-

i^i

m
i'''

186

CnUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

out the islands, and is beaten out with a wooden
mallet about a foot long and two or three inches
thick. The bark is at first soaked for a couple of days
in water, and is usually so prepared in strips of from
2 to 3 feet in length, and from 1 to 3 inches in
width; it is then laid on a beam about 10 leet long,
and about 1 foot in breadth and thickness, supported
at each end, a few inches from the ground, on a
couple of stones, so as to allow a certain amount of
vibration. Two or three women generally sit at the
same work : each places her strip of bark transversely
on the beam, and while beatin^^ with her right hand,
with her left she moves it to and fro, so that every part
becomes alike. The grooved sides of the mallet are
used first, the finishing touches being given with the
smooth side. In the course of half an hour it is
brought to a sufficient degree of thinness. Piece after
piece is thus made, and eventually stuck together.
Many I saw were from 40 to 50 yards long by
20 wide. It is then printed on with a dye obtained
by scraping the soft bark of the cocoa-tree, or the
tooi-tooi-tree, which gives, on being pressed, a
reddish-brown liquid. The stamps used are made in
various devices for ornamenting the native cloth.
While they are at work, a very pleasing efi'ect is pro-
duced, when the air is calm, by the beating of the
tapa : some sound near at hand, others in the dis-
tance, but all with singular regularity, the whole
producing a remarkable and agreeable sound.

CAPTAIN CliOKEli'S ATTACK ON BE A.

187

vooden
inches
of days
)f from
3hes in
et long,
pported
d, on a
lount of
t at the
sversely
it hand,
ery part
lallet are
with the
)iir it is
ece after
.ogetlier.
long by
ibtained
or the
|ssed, a
[made in
cloth,
is pro-
of the
ihe dis-
whole

The wearing of this native cloth, and consequently,
tlie niannfacture of it, are ordered to be discontinued
in three years' time, after which period caHco is to be
worn. This mandate has been given in the hope of
developing the cultivation of cotton, and by so doing
enriching the islands; but probably it will be diHi-
cult to induce the natives to give up their old usages
and customs.

Before leaving I had an opportunity of visiting
the native church, which is prettily situated on the
top of the highest hill. It is a neat-looking building,
consisting of a nave and two aisles : the frame-work
of the roof is cocoa-nut tree, supported on columns
of hard wood, and thatched with palm leaves.
About a dozen windows on each side light the build-
ing. Benches are provided to seat about eight
hundred. There is a fine pulpit, and a good-sized
organ, which was well played by one of the natives.
The sermon was preached by a Tongan, and the
singing was very good.

Public schools are giving most satisfactory results,
and a large proportion of the rising generation can
both read and write.

Near the church door is a monumental stone,
which has recently been erected to the memory of
Captain Croker, R.N., of H.M.S. Favourite, who
was killed by the natives in an attack on Bea, in
June 1840. Its history, as told in the school-books
here, is that " the natives of Bea continuing their

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188

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

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heathen practices, and resisting all the efforts
of the missionaries to change their evil ways,
the king, who was a zealous convert about this
time, sought the assistance of the captain of an
English man-of-war then in port to chastise these
idolaters, and so help convert them by the aid of
the sword." Captain Croker landed ; taking two
field- pieces with him and a number of blue-jackets
and marines. The village is about five miles from
the anchorage, and it seems that on their arrival
they found that the natives had fortified it with
an earth embankment. The assault was led by
Captain Croker, it is said, with sword in one hand
and Bible in the other. However, very early in
the engagement, he received a mortal wound from
an arrow, several of his followers were killed or
wounded, and the cannon captured ; the English
retreating, without at all assisting the mission. The
old king remembers all this, and has caused the
monument to be erected.

These islands are all of coral formation, and sur-
rounded with extensive reefs extending away to the
northward. The luxuriance of the foliage is not
surpassed anywhere within the Tropics. Although
but little attention seems to be ^ ven to cultivation
yams, sweet potato, banana, cocoa-nut, bread-fruit,
sugar-cane, shaddock, and limes are produced plenti-
fully, and find a ready sale with whale-ships and
otlier vessels visiting the port

MATUKI.

18»

On the 22nd July we got under weigh, and, passing
without the reefs, stood away to the westward. It
was blowing somewhat squally, and in the darkness
of the night it was by no means pleasant running
over unknown and uncertain ground.

At daylight on the 24th we found ourselves in tlie
midst of a number of beautiful islands all girt with
white circling reefs. Each island had its own pe-
culiar beauty, covered as it was with luxuriant
vegetation. About mid-day we stopped off Matuki,
which is one of the southernmost of the Fiji group.
A large party landed with rifles, and got excellent
sport in the forests, while the vessel cruised back-
wards and forwards dredging, and some excellent
hauls were made. Among other things a fine nau-
tilus was brought to the surface, and the opportunity
was thus given of seeing this beautiful creature alive
in its native element. The old popular idea that
this animal lived on the surface, and floated along,
using its shell as a boat while it was being propelled
by its own sails and oars, is altogether fabulous, for
it is now proved that the creature lives at or near
the bottom, using its shell, with the curved side
uppermost, as a protection, and that it never comes
to the surface except after death. When the explor-
ing party returned, we again proceeded on our way,
and on the following day arrived (July 25th) at
Kandavu. After a couple of days here, we left
for Levuka, a run of 120 miles, amongst most

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190

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEF.

cliarmiug scenery, numbers of islands being- scattered
about, each possessing some peculiar charm. But
the eye, as well as the mind, felt greater satis-
faction as we approached the Island of Ovalau,
which, on nearing, had more the appearances of
civilisation about it than the others. It is also the
highest, most broken, and most picturesque. On the
28th, we were off the harbour, which is surrounded
with detached coral reefs, over which the surf was
breaking in white foam : passing through an opening
only 800 or 900 feet wide, we reached the anchorage,
with its shallow, clear, and still water, affording as
great a contrast as possible to the dark turbulent
waves outside. The town is much larger than one
would at first imagine : a row of stores, hotels, &c.,
occupies a position fronting the beach, while many
of the better class of residences are situated on the
side of the hill. In various directions beautiful walks
stretch away through peaceful valleys, surrounded
with dense groves of bread-fruit and cocoa-nut
trees.

Nature seems to have been very bountiful in dis-
tributing her vegetable treasures to these islands,
and annexation by the English Government seems to
be the one great thing to be desired,* for colonial
produce, properly so called, such as sugar, coffee,
tamarinds, to])acco, and cotton, &c., may be expected
in considerable quantities as soon as the settlers

* Since t'lis was written, it has become a British colony.

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BETUBN TO KANDAVU.

191

have had time to devote attention to their cnlti-
vation.

This archipelnc^o is one of the largest and most
beautiful in tlie Pacific Ocean, lying due north of
New Zealand, and to the east of New Guinea. We
owe its discovery to Tasnian, who sighted the group
on the 6th February, 1643. Some additional interest
is just now attached to these islands from the desire
of the chiefs to cede the sovereignty to Grreat Britain.
The inducements and reasons offered in support of
their cession are — their importance to commerce,
which would be developed in the archipelago, their
rich production, the growth of cotton, and the oppor-
tunity for the formation of a naval depot and port of
call for the trans-oceanic mail service between San
Francisco and Australia.

From Levuka we returned to Kandavu, and here
remained sufficiently long to make a survey of the
anchorage (Ngola Bay). As yet it cannot boast of
the pretension of even a village. A few houses are
scattered along the beach, which probably before long
will assume a more important aspect. Kandavu
is the south-westernmost of the Fiji Islands, and,
except around its highest mountains, cultivation or
its traces can be seen in all directions. It is about
25 miles long, and throughout its whole length
is high and precipitous. The island is well covered
with timber resembling the New Zealand kauri
pine, and most of the large canoes us<!d amongst

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192

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

the islands are built here. The harbour is well pro-
tected by a reef, through which are several passages.
Very little appears to be known of the coast, so
an accurate survey is much needed, and on this
we were partially engaged during our stay.

A walk in the interior was very enjoyable, although
requiring great exertion from the rough roads: the
pedestrian having here, perhaps, to toil up an almost
perpendicular rise of 15 or 20 feet, then to cross a
narrow ridge, followed by a descent into a deep
valley, all clothed with tangled vines and shrubs.
Walking was occasionally all the more awkwar(i
from the number of roots and the slippery mud ;
again, rivulets were met with, from which water
continually bubbled across our path, and hurried
headlong down the ravine. The scene that pre-
sented itself was truly beautiful ; the picturesque
valleys of the adjacent islands lay in full view
beneath, exhibiting here and there spots of culti-
vated ground, with groves of cocoa-nut and bread-
fruit trees; while in all directions were native
houses, perched on apparently inaccessible cliffs
overlooking small domains, and the several peaks
rising in sight all cut and broken in the most
grotesque manner : in the distance the various
islands in the group, and the fantastic needle-shaped
peak of Vanua Levu wero distinctly to be seen.
The detached reefs could be traced for miles by
the water breaking over them, until they were lost

TATTOOING.

193

in the haze. I called on my way at many of the
natives* houses, and was always received with marked
hospitality. In one place the inmates had recently
had their hair dressed for some coming festival ; it
liad been washed in lime-water, so as to make it
frizzed, and then dyed in various colours and
arranged in different ways. Several days must
have been spent in getting these extraordinary
head-dresses into shape ; and for fear of again dis-
arranging them they are content to sleep on a
pillow made of a length of bamboo, on two short
cross-legs, so constructed that no European could
rest his head for five minutes without suffering
dreadful pain.

It is all very well to talk about the ease of living
in a state of nature, but the inconveniences to which
savages put themselves in order to gratify their
vanity are quite as great as, if not greater than,
those forced upon us by the fashions and dictates of
our society. Think of the agonies of tattooing. What
would the natives give to escape them, if society
would let them? But tlie stern laws of fashion, even
here, allow of no exception. The practice seems to be
confined to the women, the operation being performed
by members of their own sex, and applied solely to
the corners of the mouth, and to those parts of the
body covered by the scanty clothing. The pi'ocess
is generally tedious and painful. The skin is punc-
tured by an instrument made of bone, or l)y the

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194

CBUISE OF E.M.S. CEALLENGEB.

spines of the sliaddock-tree ; whilst the dye injected
into the punctures is obtained chiefly from the
candle-nut. No reason is given for the adoption of
this custom beyond its being commanded by God.
Neglect of this divine commandment is believed to
be severely punished after death.

The walk back to the shore, although another
route was chosen, was just as rough as the one
taken in the morning. At times we had to chmb
nearly perpendicular rocks, to creep under low
bowers formed of reeds and brushwood, to wade
through streams and rivulets, or tramp over
swampy ground, the whole being very tiring.
Clothes were torn by brambles, . and hands and
face were cut by sharp-edged leaves of shrubs and
grasses.

On reaching the settlement, we found that great
preparations were in progress for giving us a grand
Meke Meke at night in honour of our visit. After
dinner a party was made up, and about eight o'clock
we landed and were received by the Governor of
Kandavu and some of his officials. There were about
two or three hundred of the natives assembled,
dressed out in their best finery ; their faces hideously
painted black, their bodies bright with red and blue
paint, and pretty well besmeared with cocoa-nut oil.
The greater ]3art of the men, and women too, wore
only the sulu, with strips of tapa^ or dried banana-
leaves, dyed in different colours, hung round their

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MERE MERE.

195

loins, or suspended across their shoulders like scarves ;
others were similarly decorated with the green leaves
of a strongly scented weed and dried grass. At a
given signal all were in readiness, armed with clubs,
spears, and battle-axes, which were fantastically
decorated with coloured paint; while from their
large war-fans, of which a goodly number were dis-
played, floated long streamers of tapa, as delicate
and white as the finest muslin. The music was pro-
duced by an extensive orchestra, from instruments
made of hollow bamboo, which were beaten by short
sticks or by striking the ground, and excellent time
was kept by singing and shouting. The dancers
worked themselves up to a pitch of excitement,
making the most violent gesticulations, and waving
their arms about frantically ; and this scene, being
illuminated by the fitful glare of numbers of
torches, was one of a most interesting character.
On its completion, all returned to the ship well
pleased.

The natives are a fine race, and doubtless possess
many good qualities ; formerly they were pre-
eminently bloodthirsty, ferocious, and cruel. Can-
nibalism was then indulged in to an incredible
extent; and this not from mere satisfaction of re-
venge, but to satisfy 8r)petite, friend, relation, or foe
equally affording food to the most powerful. These
degrading features, however, are rapidly passinp:
away, under the influences of the Christianising

196

CBUISE OF H.M..^. CHALLENGEB.

I
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efforts of the missionaries, who have been en,?,Aj 3d
amongst them since 1835.

Our stay at Kandavu occupied over a week ; and
on finishing the survey of the harbour there was
nothing further to detain us ; so on the morning of
10th August steam was up, and a course shaped
through the barrier of reefs encircHng the island.
When clear, the vessel was swung for magnetic and
azimuth corrections; after which she proceeded
for the islands of the New Hebrides, a group
about 500 miles distant. The run was not marked
by any particular incident, but it was in every re-
spect pleasant and agreeable. The south-east trades
wafted us well on our way, and sounding and
dredging were very frequent, and showed that
the Fijis and New Hebrides are joined by a bank
with from 1300 to 1400 fathoms' depth of water
on it. Other depths showed from 2000 to 2600
fathoms; and on nearly every occasion some new
and interesting creature was brought up, this
adding more and more to the already vast collec
tion on board.

On the evening of the 17th we sighted some of
the eastern islands of the New Hebrides, passing
very near to Mai or Three Hill Islands, and a small
cluster known as the Shepherd group.

The next day we were off the island of Api,
where it was intended to land ; for before leaving
Fiji, a number of labour hands, who had com-

API.

197

iss-

pleted their engagements, were embarkod tor pas?
ige to their homes on this island, which was
reported to be one of the most savage of the
^roup. While they were on board, tliey were
qniet and tractable, and relished their allowance of
provisions greatly. Boats left the ship, taking all
those desirous of visiting the shore, and some of tlie
natives with them, as an introduction. As the land
was approached, a tolerably fine beach was ob-
served, backed with mountainous land covered with
hixuriant vegetation. Our passengers were much
alarmed at the idea of not being able to land exactly
at their own part of the island, and it was with great
difficulty that the boats found a convenient place.
When a landing was at length effected, a large number
of natives hove in sight : amongst them were two
bearing palm-branches, supposed to indicate their
friendly intentions, but the rest of the crowd had
clubs, spears, bows, and arrows. They had none of
their women or children with them, and that is
not usually a good sign. The natives are very dark,
almost approaching to black, and are considered as
belonging to the Papuan race. They are described
as hostile and treacherous in all their intercourse
with the white man ; therefore, although their man-
ners seemed favourable, they were not to be trusted,
and it was not considered advisable to ramble beyond
tlie beach, or out of sight of the boats and the armed
crew. In consequence, none of the villages or houses

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198

CRUISE OF n.M.8. CHALLENGER.

were seen. The missionaries report the isLinders as
being amongst the worst they have to deal with in
the South Pacific; those who have been labouring
amongst them during the past few years have been
treacherously killed and eaten.

The remainder of the natives we had brought with
us from Fiji were afterwards landed : some had been
absent for three years, employed on Captain Hill's
cotton-plantation at Ramby, and had received as
payment some 61. or 6/. worth of goods. Besides
other things, such as calico, a looking-glass, and
small trifles, were two Tower muskets, powder, shot,
bullets, caps, and a bullet-mould. The hatchets and
knives were of the usual useless kind, manufactured
expressly for the South Sea Island trade, and which
turn at the first blow. The influence of the labour
men in civilising their friends must be considerable.
Men who have worked side by side on the same
plantation are, on their return home, unlikely to
continue the hereditary quarrels, which they must
recognise as the cause of the desolation of their
island. They remain at home generally but a very
short time ; life, with plenty of good food, even
when accompanied with compulsory labour, being-
preferable to the nearly destitute state of existence
to which they have been reduced, in consequence
of their family feuds having destroyed most of the
plantations.

We found that nothing could be done here,

IN THE CORAL SEA,

199

although, from the fact of this group, comparatively
speakiug, being but little known, an extensive and
careful survey is much needed. It was considered,
however, unsafe to remain long amongst such people,
and on the boats returning, it was decided to proceed
for Torres Straits, distant 1500 miles, and having a
capital breeze after us, the land was soon out of sight.
During the stay off the island frequent casts of the
trawl were made in 50 fathoms, but there was
nothing of interest obtained.

On the 21st we sounded in 2325 fathoms, and on
the 24th in 2450 fathoms. We were now off the
Louisiade Archipelago, and might fairly be said to
have entered the Coral Sea — a most expressive and
appropriate name for this dangerous part of the
Pacific. Frequent soundings showed a depth vary-
ing from 2000 to 2500 fathoms as we proceeded on
for Raine Island, which was sighted on the 30th.
This coral reef is nearly a mile long and about a
quarter of a mile wide, showing some 10 feet above
the level of the sea. It is an important guide for
making the route through Torres Straits, and a
beacon was erected on it some thirty years ago.
Stretching away from here in a north-west direction
are the Great Barrier Reefs ; which are probably the
grandest and most extraordinary coralline structures
existing in any part of the world. A turbulent
sea is constantly rolling and causing a very heavy
surf to break over the numberless islets and. reefs

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200

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENOEB.

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with which tlie Coral Sea is studded; and which,
therefore, makes this passage very dangerous, not-
withstanding all the recent surveys which have been
made.

We anchored in shallow water off Raine Island, a
low reef covered with scanty vegetation, On land-
ing, sea-birds were found to exist in vast numbers,
rising and hovering above us in clouds thick enough
to darken the air. Each description appeared to
keep its own selected breeding-place, the nests being
on the bare sandy ground, with little or no attempt
at building, except on the part of the pretty black
and white tern, which prefer to build on the low
scrub, slightly raised from the ground. The next
day we proceeded towards Bird Islands, where we
anchored for the night. They are three low, wooded
islets, situated on the margin of a circular coral
reef. There were no natives seen either here or
on Sir Charles Hardy Islands, which we after-
wards passed. On the 1st September we arrived
at Somerset, Cape York, the north-east point of
Australia. The barren, sandy appearance of the
coast, seen through the thick mist which, appa-
rently, always accompanies the trade-wind, as we ran
quickly past, gave anything but pleasing or hopeful
first impressions ; and this feeling each day's stay
at this solitary outpost only served to intensify.
The Colonial Grovernment support the small settle-
ment, and the monthly mail between the colony and

- A.

SOMERSET, CAPE YORK,

801

Siii,i;5ii)ore makes it a port of call , it is besides of
some importance as a station for tlie numerous small
vessels engaged in the productive and increasing
pearl fishery, which is carried on in the shallow
waters of Torres Straits, and gives employment to a
great number of South Sea Islanders as divers and
boatmen.

STREET AROHITIOTURB, DOBBO, ARRU ISLANDS,

CHAPTER IX.

Cape York (Australia) to the Arru and Kii Islands, to Banda
Amboyna, and Tern ate (Molucca Islands).

Tho settlement at Capo York— The aboriginal Australians— Foliage anti
birds— Leave Somerset— Pass through Endeavour Straits— Off
Hammond Island— Ceremonies relating to the dead — Australian
graves— Off Booby Island— The Post Office— Passage to the Arru
Islands— Anchor off Doblx) — Visit of the Dutch officials— The
settlement— Its natives— Forest scenery — Birds of paradise-
Leave Dobbo— Piissage to the Kii Isli^nds— Anchor off Kii Doulan
—The forests— Beautiful birds and insects— Boat-building— The
village and natives— Leave the Kii Islands— Pretty scenery— The
Molucca Islands— Anchc* off Banda— (Junong A pi— Banda Neira
— Nutmeg plantations — Animals and birds found — Banda to
Amboyna— At Amboyna— The city -Get a supply of coal— Chinese
burial-places— The harbour— Arrival of the mail-ttcamer- Leave
Amboyna— Cross the Equator (second time)— Pass the Islands of
Bachian and Tawali— Tidore and Ternate in sight— The charming

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SETTLEMENT AT CAPE YORK.

203

scenery— Anchor oflF Ternate— The village — Club-house— Sultan's
Palace — Mohammedan mosque — Visit the spice plantations — Trees
and fruits— Ball at Government House.

The balf-dozen houses forming the settlement are
readily seen from the anchorage ; but we looked in
vain for the town with its several streets, as shown
on the charts. There is only one small store in the
place. The remaining dwelling-houses are those
left behind by the detachment of Royal Marines,
when they gave up the place to the Queensland
Government in 1867. One is now occupied by the
agents of the London Missionary Society, as a train-
ing establishment in connection with the mission
they are successfully working at Port Moresby,
New Guinea. The Colonial Government have for
some time been endeavouring to establish a settle-
ment here, but the soil is found to be very poor,
and the climate anything but healthy ; the chances,
too, of frequent skirmishes with the savage natives
from the adjacent islands make it far from a de-
sirable locality for settling. T frequently landed,
and had opportunities of seeing the country in
the immediate vicinity. It appears to consist of
low, wooded hills, valleys, and plains of great ex-
tent ; the coast line, when not consisting of rocky
headlands, being either a sandy beach or swamps
fringed with mangroves. On the plains, charac^ter-
istic of the poor soil, the first objects to attract
attention are the enormous pinnacled ant-hills of

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CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

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red clay and sand scattered profusely about on each
grassy slope. These singular structures, some of
which were 10 or 12 feet in height, seemed of great
strength and toughness : on breaking off a piece,
they appeared to be honeycombed inside, the nu-
merous galleries being then displayed. The ants
themselves are of a pale brown colour, and about a
quarter of an inch in length.

In my wanderings I came across some of the
aborigines, houseless and homeless. They are poor
wretched specimens, the lov/est in the scale of
humanity : their dwellings, if such they can be called,
being formed by a few bushes, behind which they
creep for shelter ; dependent from day to day on what
they can pick up for food, not even having arrived
at the first and simplest form of civilisation; and,
in like manner, destitute of all traces of religion,
except, perhaps, a faint symptom of belief in a good
and an evil spirit.

These people differ but very little from those of
other parts of Australia. The septum of the nose is
invariably perforated, and one of the front teeth
usually knocked out. No clothing is at any time
worn, and their ornaments are scanty. Their utensils
are few in number, consisting merely of a few
baskets made from the stems of a rush-like plant ;
while for drinking and cooking a large shell is
used. Their weapons are clubs and spears, and
throwing-sticks, with which they propel small spear-

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FOLIAGE AND BIRDS.

205

like arrows. I spent some time amongst them, and
gave them a few trifling presents, but could obtain
little information ; for their intellectual capacities ap-
peared very low, and they showed but little interest
or curiosity in the visits that had been paid them.
Their food usually consists of a fruit resembling
a large yellow plum, mealy and insipid, and a species
of mangrove. At low water the women generally
disperse in search of shell-fish on the mud flats, or
amongst the mangrove swamps ; and the men oc-
casionally fish either with the spear or hook and
line.

The dull and sombre vegetation of Australia
spreads all over Cape York and the immediate
adjacent islands. Wide forests of large but ragged-
stemmed gum-trees, with their almost leafless and
quite shadeless branches, are the principal charac-
teristics of this vegetation ; here and there are
gullies with jungles of more umbrageous foliage,
and a few ragged stunted palms. Across the Straits,
on its northern shore, the contrast is very great, for
travellers tell us not a gum-tree is to be seen, but that
the woods are close and lofty, and afford the deepest
and most refreshing shade, and are often matted
into impenetrable thickets by creepers and under-
growth, and adorned with varied foliage, such as
cocoa-nut, plantain, bamboo, and other plants, not
only useful but also beautiful.

Birds were plentiful, and very interesting, and I

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206

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENOEB.

now saw for the first time many new species which are
quite distinct from those previously met with. White
and black cockatoos were abundant, and their loud
screams, conspicuous colour, and pretty yellow crests
rendered them a very important feature in the land-
scape. Besides these were white pigeons, beautiful
coloured parrots and lories, thrushes, leather heads,
the gorgeous rifle bird, and some thirty or forty
otliers. Amongst this strange lot were the mound-
makers {Megapodius Gouldii)^ which are fourv here
and in the surrounding islands. They are allied to the
gallinaceous birds, but differing from them and from
all others in never sitting on their eggs, which they
bury in mounds of sand and rubbish, and leave to be
hatched by the sun or by fermentation. Several of
these birds were shot by our party, and all seemed to
be characterised by very large feet and long curved
claws, which probably enable them to scratch to-
gether all kinds of rubbish, dead leaves, sticks,
stones, earth, rotten wood, &c., until they form a
large mound, often 6 feet high and 12 feet across, in
the middle of which they bury their eggs, which are
of a brick-ied colour, about the size of a swan's. A
number of birds are supposed to join in making these
mounds, and lay their eggs together ; so that some-
times as many as forty or fifty are found on one
mound. These nests are met with in the densest
ports of the forests, and ai first we were quite puzzled
as to who could have gathered together these heaps of

CEBEMONIES RELATING TO THE DEAD. 207

rubbish in such out-of-the-way places ; for it would
seem the wildest romance to believe that it could
have been done by birds that are not much larger
than the ordinary turkey.

Sept. S(h. — This morning left the anchorage, steam-
ing throiigh Endeavour Straits, and so had our last
sight of Australia. Later in the day we hove-to
off Hammond Island. Several landed, all well-armed
with rifles, &c., so as to be prepared for any treachery
of the natives ; l)ut they kept out of sight, and we
walked about unmolested through the woods, collect-
ing botanical specimens and shooting the few birds
that were seen. While roaming about near the beach,
we saw some of the natives' graves, and were
informed that they have some peculiar ceremonies
relating to the disposal of their dead. After death
it seems the remains are kept with the tribe until
decomposition sets in, when the bones are carefully
removed, painted red, and wrapped in bark ; they
are then, with some ceremony, deposited in the
grave, which consists of a mound of sand around
which a trench is dug. A stout post is fixed u])riglit
at each of the four corners, and the sides are usually
ornamented with large shells, skulls, and bones
of the dugong. Evidences were not wanting here
that a camp of the natives had been but recently
broken up ; and as the day advanced, it was decided
to return on board, for the vessel had anchored a few
miles off, after having had an afternoon's dredging.

208

CRUISE OF rJ.M.S. Cn ALLEN GEIt,

Sept. 9th. — At an early hour this morning proceeded
under weigh, and after a few hours' run hove-to off
Booby Island, where a party landed for shooting
and to look up the post-oflRce, a rough log shanty in
which is kept a record book ; for it seems to be a
rule with vessels to heave-to here, after the dangers
of Torres Straits are passed, and leave their names and
letters to be forwarded by the first vessel. There
were no letters for any of our party, but one directed
to the first visitor, describing a sunken rock not laid
down on the charts.

On the boats returning, we proceeded on our way
for the Arru Islands. For some eight days we cruised
on a north-westerly course, having frequent success-
ful dredgings and trawlings. On the ISth, after
passing a small detached coral reef, course was
altered as requisite for the island we were bound
to. The group extends from north to south about
100 miles. Its eastern limits, however, are but im-
perfectly known. The islands seem low and swampy,
but, from being well-wooded, have the appearance of
being much higher than they really are. On first
sight, they appear as one continuous low island, but
on nearing, intricate channels are found winding
amongst them, through which set strong tidal currents.

Sept. 16M. — We stood along the land all night, and
early on the morning of the 16th were off the en-
trance of Dobbo Harl)Our, situated between the two
islands of Wamma and VVokan, and during the fore-

k l-V A. 1 An *" ■—

Doon anchored off J — ; — -^-___

-fter we were vieited bythTM .''"'^ ^^'"^diately
«:«7 and pretty atate d^st ^h • "^ "'""'^'^ ■" *'>«r
«-«W with numerous ^ J".' r*"' ''^'"^ ^e-
announced by the sound 0^.^ '^''' '"^^'^^'^^
of the rowe«. Others wL ! "'"*°" ^"'^ ^'-"t«
wards looked and .eemed / ?? °" ''''^'•'' after-
-' °f their ele Jirlrbff -^ ^^^'^"^'^ -^^
dressed up for the imp;rCt o7 • "'"* *''«^ ^'t
't «eems, hoid.W a I! ''"°" = f"^ ^^ery one

o/ficiai visfte. It was with M '"'* ^''^« PV«g
kept fron> laugh,-„^ w^* ^^^ "'»-* difficult/ wf
'oo'; very solen^n ft tht- reZ^T'"' ^' ^'^^''^
v.s,to, , appeared in costumT ^ ' ^°' '°'^' °f our
-'-y. in fon^-tai J t: : Tr"^ ''' *'- ^-'
ground, for which they hal , "\*'"'«'' °» the
o>-w.thslee.ossoW ft,'' °'^;^'- ^^^ measured,
-Id scarcely fee sefn B^^t^ f ^^'^ A'-W
treat to see, for each sported a I '"*' '^''^^ the
d-t.nt age, which was' „ so^ ""^^-P"* °f -me
-^es too large for the weir "T' '^''' "' ^'^
a large pad of paper or Zl Tt *° '""^^ « «*,
After fulfilling their iof o .'"" '"'^^^-ed
^'ad to hurry away, and c „mT "''' "'^^ --«
tl-eir official dress o^ th Jr Z , ' T" ''"PP'^S "ff

These islands are si „ ^ ° *''" '^'"^■

°^^ewGuinea,Tui:r;rJ^:'^^^^^^
P- trade, and are inhabi ed ! S °' V""'-

^y ^'''°'' mop-headed

210

CnUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

i ''

savages. We anchored off the trading settlement
of Dobbo, which the Malays and Chinese annually
visit for procuring the birds of paradise, &c. We
landed on the beach, along which a luxuriant grove
of cocoa-nut trees extended for more than a mile.
Under their shade were the houses, arranged with
much regularity, so as to form one wide street,
from which narrow alleys branched off on each
side.

The people who thronged the shore were of a
dark brown colour, many with large mop-like heads
of hair ; besides a few Papuans, Malays, and Chinese.

From what could be seen of the natives, they
appeared to be a strange race ; with an intelligent
expression of countenance. Their dress consisted of
a cloth round their waist, reaching to th^ir knees ;
their arms and ankles were decorated with rings
made of wood, shell, beads, or coloured glass. The
lobes of their ears were pei-forated with large holes,
from which enormous earrings were suspended, some-
times two and three in each ear. They wore neck-
laces and finger-rings; and all appeared to have a
band of plaited grass tight round the arm, to which
they attached a bunch of hair or bright-coloured
feathers, by way of ornament : this seemed to com-
plete their ordinary decorations.

At the southern extremity of the landing-place
the sandbank merges into the beach of the island,
and is backed by a luxuriant growth of lofty forest

TBE SETTLEMENT.

trees. Though sT^^^^^-: ~

strange p,„ee to build a vilWeonTh ' """'

consequence. '' "'"'''"^ ^"''•^ ''^althy i„

The houses are all built ^fi^y „

merely large rude shpl ^ P'''"'''"' ^emg

«'-derposfs;„o:al t"T^^ °" -^^ -'^J
« few feet of the eave's H 7 ^^^^^^ *" -'^i"

-th pal« leaves, a diXr """^ ^''^''^''^^'^
projecting considerablyTvond .b ' T' ''"^ P'*"*"'
mounted at the gables bvt? 1''"'^' '''^'' «•"-

wh.-chlo„g.Hn',J;,^ '-00^

Village quite a pictiiresonp . ^ ' ^'"^'"^ *^«

%ie of ,archijturrz:i;r;:r /';r r^^

-e partition walls of thatch forS ,,>H f *'''''
places, to accommodate ,he t wo^f "! ^'^^P'"^"
famil.es that usually live und.r '"P''^''''*''

mats, baskets, and cool Z * 7^ "°"^ ^ ^^
*he traders, «ri "e^l I'of fh'^'r • ^-"•
;pears and bows are their weais A "'"'"'' ^

forms the clothing of tb» "''"''"'•S' «'• mat

of the men. Tl e Colt """' "■ ""■^*-'='°* *'-*

youth, are by „o ZT' ''°'P* '" *''<^"' '^'^'^'-'^
» «^/ iio means nreffv t^u •

marked features are verv ,J '' '*''""&'y

privations, and ver^ ear, v!:'""^' """' ''''' ^^^^
whatever beauty they m L T'^f "°" '"'''"y
Their toilet is very Zif ""'" ''^^^ P"«««ed.
nf 1 -x 1 *^ Simple, consistjijo' soIpIv ^f

of plaited grass, or strips of mlm L. ^ ""^"^

^ palm-ieaves worn tight

P 2

212

CRUISE OF E.M.S. CHALLENOER

round the body, and reaching from the hips to the
knees. This is the universal dress, except in a few
cases where the Malay sarong has come into use.
Their hair is frizzled, and tied in a bunch at the back
of the head.

The forest scenery possesses a brilliant and varied
vegetation ; the beautiful Causurina tree, luxuriant
groves of cocoa-nut, and palms of graceful forms
were seen everywhere, while climbing rattans formed
entangled festoons from almost every forest tree.
Here the lovely bird of paradise, and scores of others
with gorgeous plumage, flew in and out amidst the
bright green foliage, forming a magnificent sight.

From an early hour in the morning the forests are
all alive with lories, parroquets, and cockatoos, whose
shrill screams and cries resound through the woods ;
while numerous smaller birds, many of the most
lovely form and colour, chirruped and whistled all
the day long.

In and amongst this beautiful forest scenery we
remained for a week, while daily excuisions were
made to the other islands of the group, and large
numbers of very beautiful birds obtained, including
many varieties of the rich-plumed birds of paradise.
So gorgeous and beautiful are some of these (the
king-bird) that the natives name them God's birds.

All were sorry to leave these fascinating shores,
for the many pleasant cruises in the steam-pinnace
up the rivers and to the adjacent islands, together

ANCHOR OFF KII DOULAN.

213

with the good sport in the forests, made the time pass
very agreeably ; but on the 23rd September we were
off again, steaming along the land, which appeared
very lovely and fertile, rising abruptly from tlie
ocean, with its green hills piled gracefully together,
presenting a mass of evergreen vegetation most
inviting to the eye. Flying fish were very numerous ;
they appear to be a smaller species than those of
the Atlantic, and more active and elegant in their
motion. As they skim along the surface, they turn
on their sides, so as to fully display their beautiful
fins, taking a flight of more than one hundred yards,
rising and falling in a most graceful manner. At a
little distance they exactly resemble swallows, and
no one who sees them can doubt that they really do
fly, not merely descend in an oblique direction from
the height they gain by their first spring.

As the day advanced, we were close to Great Kii,
and we came to anchor late in the evening oiT the
s'illage. Canoes were soon alongside, and it required
but little persuasion to induce some of their occupants
to come on board, where we were for some time
enlivened with their dances. Next morning, moved
on our way and anchored off the village of Kii
Doulan.

The island is long and narrow ; it appears to be
everywhere covered with luxuriant forests, and in its
bays and inlets the sand is of dazzling whiteness, re-
sulting from the decomposition of the coralline lime-

'?; ■;

214

CRUISE OF II.M.S. CHALLENGER.

stone, of which it is entirely composed. In all th«
little swampy inlets and valleys sago-trees abound,
and these supply the main subsistence of the natives.
The forests afford abundance of timber, though not
probably more so than other islands, and, from some
unknown causes, these remote savages have made
boat-building their study, in wliich art they pre-
eminently excel. Their canoes and prahs are beau-
tifully formed, broad and low in the centre, rising at
each end, where they terminate in high pointed
j)eaks, more or less carved, and ornamented witli
shells and waving plumes of cassowary's hair. They
are not hollowed out of a tree, but are regularly
built of planks running from end to end, accurately
fitted together without a nail or particle of iron being
used, the planks being dowelled together with
wooden pegs, as a cooper fastens the head of a cask,
and the whole afterwards strengthened by timbers,
lashed with split rattan to solid cleats left for the
purpose in each plank.

The village had a pretty appearance as seen from
the anchorage ; but on landing the illusion was soon
dispelled. There seems to be but little care or clean-
liness in or around the houses ; but a ramble through
the beautiful forests, hunting for plants and insects,
many of which were altogether unknown, was very
enjoyable,

Sept. 2Qth. — Left the anchorage this morning, and
proceeded amongst a group of beautifully wooded

t *

GREAT BAND A.

215

islands, many of which were either unknown or in-
correctly laid down on the charts ; so a running survey
was made of this archipelago. Three days of most
jdeasant cruising followed, during which frequent
soundings and trawlings were onward, and on the
2nth September the volcanic group of Banda was in
sight, covered with an unusually dense and brilliant
green vegetation, indicating that we had passed
beyond the range of the hot dry winds from the
plains of Central Australia.

As we proceed, on passing the shores of Great
Banda, composed seemingly of a series of perpen-
dicular crags from 200 to 300 feet high, covered
with luxuriant vegetation hanging down in festoons
of bright green unfading verdure to the water's
edge, a beautiful sheet of water is disclosed, like
an inland lake, showing up the northern shores,
covered with dense matted masses of foliage, while
(scattered about ahead are two or three small islands,
with the swell chafing their abrupt sides as they rise
out of the bright blue sea, which is only ruffled here
and there by light breezes, or flecked by shadows from
the fleecy clouds that slowly cross the sky.

Banda is a lovely little spot, its three islands inclos-
ing a secure harbour, from which no outlet is visible,
and with waters so transparent that living corals,
and even the minutest objects, are plainly seen on the
volcanic sand at a depth of seven or eight fathoms.

We anchored within the circle formed by these

1 1

)

216

CRUISE OF H.M.8. CHALLENGER.

islands, between Great Banda and Banda Neira, at
the foot of Gunong Api, or Burning Mountain, a
conical active volcano 2300 feet high. Banda Neira
is in full view before us. It is composed of hills,
which gradually rise in a succession of ridges to the
height of about 500 feet, covered with beautiful vege-
tation to the very top. On one of these prominent
positions is Fort Belgica, with bastions surmounted
by circular towers, resembling some old feudal
castle, from which flies the Dutch flag. Its walls are
white and dazzling in the bright sunlight, and be-
neath is a broad, neatly Oiipped glacis, forming a
beautiful green descending lawn. At the foot of this
hill is Fort Nassau, which was built by the Dutch
when they first arrived, in 1609, On either hand,
along the shore, extend the chief villages of Neira,
with rows of pretty shady trees on the bund, or front
street, bordering the bay ; while at some little dis-
tance behind the beach are spice ply citations and
large groves of cocoa-nut trees. In front of our
anchorage the town stretches along, consisting of
scattered houses, with not much sign of regularity.
One or two roads run up the valley, where are
pleasant groves of orange, tamarind, nutmeg, bam-
boo, banana, and other stately tropical trees and
plants, lending their shade and beauty to the scene,
which, with the white walls and red-tiled roofs of
the houses, together with the many strange faces
and still stranger dresses, formed a great contrast to

NUTMEO PLANTATIONS.

217

anything we had hitherto seen. These natives are
apparently a very mixed race, and probably three-
fourths are made up of Malay, Papuan, Arab, Por-
tugese, and Dutch. The first two form the larger
portion of the inhabitants, but the dark skins and
the more or less frizzly hair of the Papuans appear
to predominate.

During our stay here the Governor (or Resident,
as he is styled) made up a party to visit the nutmeg
plantations on Great Banda. Our steam-pinnace was
in requisition, and a most enjoyable trip it was, for,
on reaching the landing, horses were provided to
take the party the remaining eight miles to the
gardens. And what a treat presented itself, for there
are few cultivated plants more beautiful than nut-
meg-trees. They are handsomely shaped, growing to
a height of 20 or 30 feet, with bright glossy leaves,
and bearing small yellowish flowers. The trees were
now in full bloom, and in a few weeks the fruit would
be ready for picking. It grows in size and colour
somewhat like a peach, but rather oval ; it in of ^i
tough, fleshy consistence, and as it ripens splits open,
showing the dark-brown nut within, surrounded with
the crimson mace, forming a very beautiful object.
The nutmeg trade was for a number of years a strict
monopoly ; recently the monopoly has been given uj).
The indignation at one time expressed against the
Dutch for destroyinf;: all the nntmog and clove trees
(m the many islands then covered with those valuable

||R

218

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

spices, in order to restrict the cultivation to the two
or three that they were able to watch over, showed n
Tiarrowmindedness in the government of that time
which has since happily passed away. After spending
some hours here, we r<'turned to the vessel, well
pleased with the day's recreation.

Shooting parties left for the interior, as it was
reported that the forests contained deer, pig, and a
species of cuscus, but none were met with. Of birds,
the naturalists collected some seven or eight species ;
the most remarkable being a fine and handsome
fruit-pigeon, which feeds upon the nutmegs, or
rather on the mace, and as we strolled through the
forests, its loud booming note was continually heard.

Oct. 2nd. — Our stay was limited to three days,
when we proceeded on our way. The sea was
beautifully calm, and the bright sun and clear sky
threw a flood of golden light over all. The distance
was only 115 miles, and we were now approaching
Am.boyna, the most important of the Spice Islands,
where we arrived and anchored on the 4th Octol)er.
Amboyna is the name l)oth of the island and its chief
city — in fact, it is regarded as the capital of the
Moluccas.

The island consists of two peninsulas, so nearly
divided by inlets of the sea as to leave only a sandy
isthmus about a mile wide near the eastern extre-
mity. The western inlet is several miles long,
and forms a fine harlour, on the southern side of

CITY OF AMBOTNA.

219

which is situated tlie town, backed up by high hills
rising abruptly from the sea. Along the shore are
many little bays, where coasting-vessels and pralis
were seen at anchor. Viewed fiom the anchor-
nge the city has a pleasing appearance, its streets
being broad, straight, and well-shaded, with num-
bers of roads set out at right angles to each other,
bordered by hedges of flowering shrubs, and inclosing
country-hous^^s and huts embosomed in palm and
fruit trees; and, with the high land forming the
background, there are few places more enjoyable for
a morning or evening stroll than the sandy roads
nnd shady lanes in the suburbs of this ancient
city.

Landing on the mole in ftont of Fort Nieuw Vic-
toria, we passed through this old stronghold out into
the pretty lawn beyond, which is surrounded by
officials' and merchants' residences. Nor must I
omit to mention the Societat, or Club-house, which
occupies a prominent position just opposite the fort.
It appears that every place of any pretension to size
in Netherland India baa one or two of these pleasant
resorts, where newspapers and periodicals are re-
ceived, and all the social Europeans gather in the
cool of the evening to enjoy eacli other's society, or
smoke and drink their favourite gin -and -bitters.
Through the courtesy of the Uesident, invitations
were extended to the "Challengers" during their
stay in port, and thus op[)ortunities were all'orded

ill

'3;

220

CBUISE OF H.M.8. CBALLENCEB.

of passing a pleasant evening, especially when the
band played.

The Dutch Government have a large coal depot
here. One day we proceeded farther up the har-
bour for the purpose of taking in a supply, lying
alongside a jetty during the operation ; it was, how-
ever, a slow and tfidious process, for no inducement
could make the coolies get in anything like a reason-
able quantity per day. It was a pretty place, and
as we had the additional facilities of lying along-
side a pier, many excursions were taken. All along
the beach are small groves of cocoa-nut palms,
which furnish food and shade to the natives dwelling
in their huts beneath. Away at the back are the
favourite burial-places of the Chinese, whose tombs
are curious horseshoe-shaped inclosures, their white
walls making very conspicuous objects on the hill-
side ; while scattered far and near are numerous little
plantations filled with small trees which have a
bright green foliage. These are the gardens of clove-
trees, which have made this island so famous through-
out the world. On the completion of the coaling
we returned to our first anchorage oflT the town. The
passage down the harbour afforded one of the most
astonishing and beautiful sights to behold. The
bottom was absolutely hidden by a contfnucus series
of coral, sponges, actiniae, and other marine produc-
tions of varied forms and brilliant colours; tlje waters
were clear as crystal, and the depth varying from

LEAVE AMBOTNA.

221

eight to ten fathoms. All along the uneven bottom
were rocks and stones, offering a variety of stations
for the growth of these animal forests. It was a
sight to gaze on for hours, and no description can
do justice to its surpassing beauty and interest. It
had generally been considered that this coast was
particularly rich in all kinds of marine productions,
such as corals, shells, and fish, but the results of our
dredging outside the harbour did not in any way
prove such to be the case, to our great disappoint-
ment. During our stay the mail-steamer arrived ;
tliis seemed to be almost the only chance to break
the dull monotony of a residence in this enervating
climate, unless an earthquake happens, which affords
a grand opportunity for something to talk about to
new arrivals.

Life at Amboyna, and at almost every other place
of the Dutch possessions, Rt the best is dull. Once
or twice a month the Resident gives a reception,
when all the Euro|)eans and most of the Mestizos
come and dance till late ; and as there are some
seven or eight hundred people in the city, and the
larger portion are usually invited and attend, it is
frequently a brilliant affair.

We had been here six days when it was deter-
mined to make a move from the anchorage. Accord-
ingly, all was ready, and on the morning of the
10th October we were again under weigh, steaming
through beautiful calm seas, with numerous islands

222

CRUISE OF H.M.8. CHALLENOEB,

of varied form and size in sight, sounding and
dredging daily with most satisfactory results. On
the evening of the 13th we crossed the Equator, and
on the next day passed the islands of Bachian and
Tawali, which are great volcanic masses heaved
up into ridges about 1000 feet in height, and
separated by a long, narrow strait abounding in
the grandest scenery. Here on Bachian the clove-
tree grows wild. North of this island is Makian,
an old volcano; in fact, we were just now sur-
rounded with extinct craters. The next day (14th)
we passed through the channel separating Tidore,
with its high, prominent peak, from that of Ternate,
and late in the evening anchored in the well-
sheltered bay, off the village of Ternate, situated at
the eastern declivity of a volcanic mountain 5000
feet high. This is one jf four or five conical vol-
canoes, which skirt the west coast of the large and
almost unknown island of Gilolo. The town is
concealed from view until close up to the anchorage,
when it is seen stretching along the shore at the
very base of the mountain. Its situation is fine,
and there are grand views on every side. Op-
posite is the rugged promontory and fine volcanic
cone of Tidore ; to the east is the long, mountainous
coast of Gilolo; while immediately behind the town
rises the huge mountain, sloping easily at first, and
covered with a thick grove of fruit-trees, but soon
becoming steeper, and furrowed with deep gullies

TERN ATE.

223

almost to the summit, whence issue faint wreaths
of smoke. The scene looked calm and beautiful,
although beneath are hidden fires, which occasion-
ally burst forth in streams of lava, but more fre-
quently make their existence known by earthquakes,
which have on several occasions devastated the
town. It was in 1840 that the last great eruption
took place, and destroyed everything within reach,
inflicting a loss of something like 100,000/.; but
after a while the present town sprang up on the
ruins, and now contains about nine or ten thousand
inhabitants.

Near the landing-place is the residence of the Resi-
dent, or Governor, a large roomy bungalow, prettily
situated, and surrounded with beautiful foliage, and
close at hand are the Societat, or Club-house, and
the residences of the Europeans. Like all Dutch
cities in the East, it is divided into kampongs, or
quarters, the southern being occupied by Europeans,
and the northern by Chinese and Arabs. Near
the latter is Fort Orange, built by the Portuguese
in 1607, in an open space facing the beach, and
beyond this the native town extends for about
a mile to the north-east. The road leads to the
palace of the Sultan of Ternatc, which is a small
building in the European style, standing on a terrace
facing a wide and beautiful lawn reaching down to
the sea. The rajahs who at one time reigned over
the savage and cruel pirates who infested these isles

! I

224

CBUISE OF nj.LS. CHALLENGER.

are now reduced to a state of vassalage, and are l}ut
regal slaves, whose pomp and state are maintained
by the dollars of the Dutch. The villages close at
hand consist of a number of bamboo-built houses,
nicely slieltered with cocoa-nut and banana trees,
and picturesquely situated on a little projecting
point almost surrounded by the bright blue sea,

On my way back to the European quarter I heard
tlie booming of the drum from the large mosquo
close at hand, calling all the faithful to assemble to
return thanks tc -h^ i rophet at the close of the
departing day. i A^un' into the building, which is
a square, pagoda-liivo stru '^ire with several roofs,
one above the other, and each being a little smaller
than the one beneath it. A wall surrounds the build-
ing, inside which was a large well, or pool, where all
the faithful performed their ablutions before pro-
ceeding into the sanctuary. After getting within
the inclosure, an inclined terrace of steps led to the
entrance door, where boots had to be removed, and
I entered barefooted the sacred precincts amongst
tlie worshippers, who were kneeling in front of a
recess, or niche, and a gaily painted and decorated
dais, or throne ; but I could learn nothing as to the
objects in view, and the whole of the religious cere-
mony appeared to consist of the repetition of a
certain number of prayers or passages from the
Koran, on the termination of which all seemed
to disperse highly pleased. Before we left Ter-

TRi'lES AND FRUITS.

225

i\',\\e^ the KesiMeiit made up a party for the purpose
of visiting the spice plantations. Landing at an
early hour, we found a walk through the charming
avenues most enjoyable. The wliole surface of
the land is covered with various kinds of statelv
trees, interspersed here and tliere with neat little
inclosures and huts of the natives. It must be re-
membered that we were in the Tropics, where the
wild luxuriance of nature runs riot, for the natural
vegetation of the hedges and hillsides overpoweis
in picturesque effect all the artificial productions of
m.in. Wending our way along paths wh< e the line
of vision is very limited from the dense tol;,.ge, we
occasionally got, on reaching a clearing, alternate
peeps into wooded valleys and fertile j^.ains, and
glimpses of the bright blue sea beyo 1, backed by
hills and bordered with low, wooded shores, on the
surface of which were numerous coasting vessels,
boats, and canoes, whose white sails looked lu-ight in
the morning sun. Still continuing our walk along-
shady pathways, and admiring each successive view,
we reached the plantations. Delight itself, however,
v>ould be but a weak term to express the feelings
even of the most ordinary observer of nature here.
The lovely sago-palm, with its great bunches of
fruit; the fascinating betel-nut, tall and tapering; the
luxuriant profusion of pepper, cinnamon, cocoa, nut-
meg, and clove trees, with numberless others pro-
ducing durians, mangustans, lansets, and mangoes,

;

'< ' I

■ ' il
■J:

' ',

1'^

l«

'i:

226

CnUTSE OF n.M.S. CFTALLENGER.

whose wide-spreading branches and bright green
foh'age are offered to the hand of indii try for fulfilling
the varied purposes of life, whether useful or onia-
n^ental — all gave to the general aspect a picturesque
beauty only to be met with araong«t these lovely
islands.

It was soon time to retrace our steps, yet I could
not help stopping again and again to gaze on these
scenes, and to endeavour to fix on my mind an
impression which at the time I knew I should wholly
or partially lose. The form of the beautiful nutmeg
fruit and other spice-producing trees, the sago-palm,
or betel, may possibly l-emain clear and separate, but
the thousand and one beauties that unite them into
a perfect scene must surely fade away.

It was past noon when we again readied Govern-
ment House ; and now each of our party strolled
away, either to the Club or for a farther walk in the
country, so as to pass the time until the evening,
when a reception in iionour of the " Challengers " wan
held at Government House, finishing up witli a ball.

All the rank and beauty of Ternate were of course
tliere to meet us, besides the officers from a small
Dutch war-ship in port. Tiie company was a med-
ley of nationalities. There were Arabs in jaunty
turbans and long, flowing bernouses ; curious-looking
Chinese in silks and long tails; Malays, with close-
shaven crowns and richly brocaded jackets; and
sober, quiet-looking Dutchmen in evening dress. Nor

BALL AT GOVERNMENT HOUSE.

227

it green
fulfilling
or orna-
[jtnresqne
se lovely

it I conld
) on tliese

mind '.in
lid wholly
111 nutmeg
sago-pulm,
Darate, but

them into

must I omit to mention the one resident Englishman
(Mr. Edwards) and his family. The ladies were,
with few exceptions, all Mestizos, got up in silks
and muslins, and looking their best. The Challenger's
band attended, but the company preferred dancing
to their own plaintive tunes, produced from a fife
and a couple of fiddles. Thus pleasantly passed a
few hours; ai)d from the kind consideration and
hospitality of our liost and hostess, memories will
long remain of the baU ai; Ternate.

d Govern-
y strolled
alk in the
evening,
gers " wan
ith a ball,
of course
a small
8 a med-
in jaunty
is-looking
ith close-
ets ; and
iress. Nor

Q 2

NATIVES OP THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS

CHAPTER X.

Ternate (Molucca Islands) to Samboanoan, Iloilo, and Manilla
(Philippine Islands), and to Hong Kong (China).

Leave Ternate — Mindanao, Philippine Islands, iti sight— Anchor off Sam-
boanoan — The village— Hospitality of the Spanish officials — Dance
of the Malagahi Indians — Leave Mindanao, and anchor off Panay
— The town of Iloilo — Leave for Luzon— Anchor in Manilla Har-
bonr— The city— Cigar factories, i\fc. — Leave Manilla — Passage to
Hong Kong, China— Arrive and anchor in Hong Kong Harlx)nr —
The (Mty — Its residents, shops, theatres — Their temples and re-
ligion — Joss, the mystery— ('aptain Naros leaves for England
to take the Arctic command — Loss to the expedition by his
leaving — Arrival of the English mail.

On the morninp^ of the ITtli October we left Ter-
nate, greatly to the regret of our hospitnl)le friends.

ANCnOli OFF SAMBOAMJAN.

220

Steaminp^ on witli llii(3 wciitlicr acroHH the iMoliicca
pa.ssji^e into tlie CVlt-lu's Sea, the sceniTy in every
diiectioii was very lovely, tlie lofty, high voleaiiie
land alTording more than ordinary intereat as we
occasionally stopped off the steep shores for trawling.

Crossing the Celehes Sea on the 23rd, the high
land of Mindanao, covered with hright green foliage
to the very top, was before us. Stopping again for
soundings, it was nine o'clock on a bright moonh'ght
night when we anchored off the village of Sam-
boangan. After the Spanish olHcials had boarded
us, and visits of ceremony exchanged, those so
desirous were free for a run on shore.

The next day, early in the morning, aa the sun
rose, the picture from the deck was very charming.
'J'he little village before us was almost concealed
iron) view by the varied foliage stretching from
end to end, backed up with high land cultivated
nearly to the sununit ; while in the fertile plains
below the waving palms and the bright green
stalks of the rice stood out in pleasing reliet.

As is usually the case on landing at these villages,
Samboangan lost much of the charm apparent from
the anchorage ; but the country and roads were
found prettily decorated with tiiick and many-tinted
foliage; all bamboos shaking their feathery heads
aloft, the cocoa-nut still loftier; palms of various
sorts; the plantains and bananas, tlie hnge green
leaves of wliich give such richness to a tro])ical land-

230

niiUISE OF H.M.S. CnALLENGEIi.

\:r

\ ' '

F '■i

Hcape, and tlie mniiy-coloured bright flowerH, and
tiailera hanging over bunks of rivers that flow into
the sea.

With the proverbial kindness and courtefsy of tho
Spanish officials, a pleasing entertainment was ar-
ranged for us during the oidy evening of our stay.
On landing it was found that the upper room of the
large house of the Captain of the Port had been
prepared for the occasion, and was pretty well filled
wiih a number of Moros Indians from Malagahi (tho
hill tribes), who were busily preparing to give us a
national dance. The musicians were mostly women,
who played with drumsticks on gongs of various
sizes, arranged in sets of ten or twelve in number,
and on instruments formed of long metallic bars and
strips of bamhoo on strings stri'tohod across frames,
besides flutes, drums, and a curious two-stringod
fiddle. The variety of sounds produced was both
harmonious and pleasing. When all was ready, at a
given signal, the dancei's sprang to their feet, and
soon we had a sight not easily forgotten.

The ))erfoi-mers, principally girls, were dressed in
bright and gorgeous costumes, in silk, satin, and gold
emhroiderv, with rings, armlets and jewellery. 'IMieii
pleasing and easy nioiion, the graceful attitudes and
movements of their body and arms, had a novel ettect,
and on its conclusion we could be no other than
highly pleased with the treat. Thei'e was a huge
attendance of Spanish officials, both of the navy and

THE TOWN OF ILOILO.

231

army, who did their utmost \\\ providing many good
things for our enjoyment and comfort.

Hcing anxious to push on, so as to rrach ITong
Kong hefbre tlie change of the monsoons, early
the next morning we were under weigh, i)assing
throujrh tlie Suhi Sea, reneliing the Island of

Pa nay, and anchoring oft' the town of lloilo on
the 2Hth.

The approach to the yxnt is hy a nairow cliannel
hetween a sandbank and tlie Island of Ciuimaras, and
we anchored very near the shore. A few straggling
houses are all that is seen of the town, whitlj has

no pretensions to size or

beaut

y ; one j)ortion o

f it

lies so low that its streets are usually, at high-water,
submerged, the houses being built or» high pi'i's.
Tin? roads in the suburbs are pivtty, and mjiny
Indian houses are seen, where most of the women ani
employed making that extremely beautilul fabric, the
phui^ wliich is prepared from tlie leaves of the pine-
apple. The whit' and delicate threads, bt*ing separated

irom

the 1

eavef>.

are sorted with irreat

care, an(

woven into a very delicate material resembling very
tine muslin. Such are the patience and care required
in \U make that somi'times not mon'than half an inch

IS mnde m a (

ay.

Alter taking in coal, we left, on tlie morning of
the tUst, for Manilla. The .*{;')0 miles were soon got
over, and, after trawding oii two or three occasions,
on the 4th JSoscmber we sij»hted the li^ihthouse ut

232

CRUISE OF II.M.S. CnALLENGER.

11!

■ill

^11

*■,!

tlie entrance of the raa^nificent harbour of Manilla,
and some hours' steaminp^ broup^ht us to the anchor-
age, at about a couple of miles from the shore.

S(X)n after we were visited by the various officials,
and opportunities were given for landing. The
business portion of the city is prettily laid out
with numbers of long and handsome streets, exten-
sive stores and warehouses, affording employment to
hundreds of coolies and otiiers, who are seen rushing
about with bales and packages, loading or unloading
vessels in the river. Am(mg the interesting sights
of Manilla are the cigar factories. There was no
dithculty in obtaining a permit from the chief of the
administration to see them. We were informed that
in the one visited four thousand women and half
that number of men were employed, while in the
neighbourhood as many as nine thousand women
and seven thousand men find employment in pro-
ducing cigars. As we enteietl the building, our eais
weie almost deafened by tlie chattering produced
and noise made by sonie huiuheds of women seated
on the floors, e;(ch provided with a small wood
mallet, with which she hammered the tobacco leaves
on lilocks to polish them for the outwide of the cigars.
In other rooms they were em|)l()yed in rolling them
up into their proper shape, finishing off, and other-
wise prepaiing them for tlie market-
Tobacco Iteing a stri(;t rnonopolv of the govern-
ment, it is entirely in charge oi" a mibtary adminis-

MANILLA.

tration, and durinpf the harvest, we were iiiroinied
hy the oiHcials who accompanied us, the ^iLatest
care and supervision are necessary to prevent tlie
hest leaves of the crop bein^ carried off ])y the
employes. After the gatlierinfj; in from the \)\\u\-
taticms the leaves are at first placed in heaps under
cover to ferment, then sorted according to size and
quality and allowed to dry; finally reaching the
manufactory, where they are made into cigars as we
saw them.

The city is situated in a rich and fertile district,
in the nndst of magnificent scenery, spi(»ndid alike
ill form and colour, but, like every town in these
islands, has one great enemy to dread — eartii(|uake,
which has from time to time made frightful ravages
in this city, evidences of wliich are seen at the present
time in the ruins of churches, cathi'drals, and public
building-!.

On the 11th Noveml)er our visit came to an end,
and we proceeded out of ti)e haibour under steam.
Before clearing the land, we bad all the prospects of a
rough ])a.ssage l)efore us. At the best of times the
China Seas are anything but calm, but now we had
the full force of the monsoon against us ; and the wild
cross waves breaking on our bows tossed us aiiout
with great violence, to the destruction of crockery and
furniture, until hearing the coast, when it moderated
Hullicieiitly for us to havi; a few hauls with the trawl
with satisfactory lesultfe The Kith November, \ ic-

> 'I

< ft

I
Hi

2:U

CRUISE OF IT.M.S. CHALLENGER.

■m

nil

toria Peak (IToii*^ Koiio;) was seen, and a few l.-^m-i
later we were threadinji* our way tlirou^li a very iaa.:e
• )f' bonid and bhiopiiig iiiitii reacliiiig* the anciiorai:!^
ott ;,!ie Naval Yard. Soon we were surrounded bv a
host of sampans and junks, whose noisy occupants
were each seekinji;' the lionour of being appointed the
Clidllt'Ufiers l[)ui ul )( )at.

Few places are more interesting to tlie traveller
from Europe than this city, furnisliing as it does such
a change of scenery, manners, and customs, so widely
difl'erent from anything he lias probably seen be
fore.

The harbour is crowded with men-of-war and
trading vessels of many nationalities, while iiundredt-
of junks, sjimpans, and fislnng-boats, full of lif(i and
movement, contribute in making the scene one ol
great attraction. Not more than half a century lias
elapsed since Enghind took possession of tin's island,
at which time it was little less than a bare uninviting
rock, jifTording a haunt and home for pirates and
desperadoes, who were the terror '»f these seas.
What a change has beei\ brougitt bout in this
brief period ! Now it is a great centre of trade and
commerce, and vessels come from Bombay, Calcutta,
and Singapore, laden with the choicest products fn )ni
these lands for trans-shipment to JMigland, America,
or our colonial possessions, receiving in return
tribute from those distiint countiies, in exchangii
fo«' teas, silk, opium, and other re(pnn'ment.s. It »•

UONO KONG.

i35

aliv.uly oiKi of the most floiiri-.]i;iiL: ot tiW o( 'onies
in the East,, and desiined to still t'mtlier t'xt»'iision
and ii^reater importance. It has l»ec<mi(3 tlie postal
terminus of tlie many I'nes of mail-stcann is tliat
arrive weekly from Europe and Amriica, and now,
with sul>marine telegrai>h, is in instant couimuiiica-
tion with every phice of importance.

Victoria, the chief town, is situated along the
northern shore of the island, with its maij^nificent
harhour stretchiuf^ out in front, and l)acked up with
mountainous land, culmiiiatiuf^ in Peak \'ict()ria,
1200 feet ahove the level of tlie sea, and stretchiuir
along the length and breadth of the city, shutting
out the invigorating hreeze for half the yiar, and
causinc: it to he one oF the most indiealthv of our
colonial possessions, [t is laid out with fine streets,
and its hillside is crowded with villa residences of
the wealthy traders and merehants.

The Chinese population, who are ever alive when
an opening occurs for trade, have come here i?i
swarms tVom the main-land, and made this once
almost harren rock tiieir houn', huilding ;i t(»wii of
tlieir own, which skirts the l»ay and -cramhles
upwanl and onward over the hill hehind.

The cathedral, (iovornment House, cluhs, and
public buiMings are splendid specinu is of archi-
tecture, Ri\d tiuis exemplify the energy and industrv
of the Anglo-Saxon race. What other race would
tliiuk of placing house and home in such a locality?

i :

1 <t

i>t

r I

.11

1236

ChUISE OF IUI.S. CHALLENGER.

Tlie summers are UKiially Itot, and the town un-
healtljy; still manifold precautions and sanitary
measures have done mucli of late to diminish the
amnunt of sickness. As it is, however, n^reat rumlM'rK
are invalided home from the vessels employed on
this station, while others find rest in six feet of eaith
in the Happy Valley, where a Protest;int cemetery is
situated.

Warehouses and stores, for supplying every
requisite and luxury of life, are numerous. The
houses of husiness alon^ tlie Queen's Road would
do credit to many an European town, and the
naval yard is compK'te with every requirement
ibr refitting vessels employed on this part of the
slation.

On reaching: the shore, a walk through the Chinese
(juarter is mo.-.t interesting. The houses and shoj)s
are most curiously constructed, and jun* as strangely
fitieil up ; not one, however small or poor, but has its
domestic altar, its Joss, and other (juaint and curious
arrangements known only to these [)ecullarly strange
people. Look where W" will, there Jire evidences of the
untiring industry and enterprise of these surj)rising
sons of Siieui. Up every alley, and in every street,
we see crowds of little yellow faces, and stumble
against the brj^erh oi* merchants hurrying on to
their biisinesn, cind in the universal blue jean jumper
and trousers, cotton hjcU.-, and shoes of worked silk,
with thick wood solos; soaie with, and others without

THE CHINESE QUARTER.

237

iiats : the sliaveii face and pigtail so typifying tlie
class that to note a dilTLTcnce between Snn Sliing or
Wang Heng is sometimes most emliarrassing Tlie
dress of the women diftVrs but Httle from tliat ^i the
men. The curious, built-up style the married ladies
have of wearing their hair gives them a strange ap-
pearance ; while the younger lasse.. allow tluirs to
hang down their back in tresses, cr wear it bound
tightly over their foreheads, and secured an cltKjiton.
Their cheeks are tinted bright pink, and with their
neat little feet, and clean and loose clothing, tliey
make a very pretty picture. By far tlie most con-
spictious of the various kinds of people, and those
which most attract the stranger's attention, are the
Chiuese, although gieat numbers of other nationalities
are to be seen ; and, when once the business of the
day has begun, the din and traffic are enormous ; for
crowds of men, of all creeds and colours, Jew, pagan,
and Christian, Ihiddhistand l*arsee, rhiiiese, Japanese,
and European, fill the streets, while gangs of coolies
chant to keep step, as they piess on beneath their
heavy burdens. The merchants, whose places of
business lie along the Queen's Uoad, are so similar
in ap[)earance that a de.scri[>tion of one will apply to
all. He is generally a fat, round-faced man, with an
important and business-like look, wearing the b«ime
style of clothing as the meanest coolie (l>ut of finer ma-
terial), and is always clean an»l neat, and his long t,ai!,
tipped with red or blue silk, hangs down to his heels.

i^l

•238

CnriSE OF H.M.S. CnALLENGEU.

The ChiiiGKe never depart in tlie least froin tlieir
national dress, which is, indeed, ini possible to improve
on for a tropical climate, whether as regards comfort
or appearance. The loosely hanging tronsers and
neat white half-shirt, half-jacket are exactly what a
dress should he in these latitudes.

Continuing the walk along the Queen's Road,
hundreds of small shops are passed where are seen
the most marvellous and miscellaneous collection
of "'^njrios" possible. The shopkeej)ers are, as a
rule, very good-natured, and will show one every-
thing they have, not ap})earing to trouble whether
a purchase is made or not. They always ask
for theii' goods about twice as much as they are
willing to take. If you buy a few things from
them, they will invariably speak to you afterwards
every time you pass the shop, asking you to walk
in and sit down to rest, or to take a cup of tea
01* some chow-chow ; and you wnder how they
manage to get a living where so muny sell the same
kind of article.

Farther on are t^ be seen carpenters busy at
packing-cases, cabinet-makers hammering away at
camphor-wood chests, brass-workers clattering away
making bowls or gongs ; while at every step are met
sellers of water, vegetables, fish, soup, fruit, &c., with
as many cries, and just as unintelligible, as those of
London. Others carry a j)ortable cooking apparatus
on a pole, )>alanced by a table at the other end, and

/^^

I{ESIj>i:nts, shops, etc.

2'i;i

Kcrvo up M men) of sliell-fis' , rir-c, Jind vop^t'lMldcs for
a few cash; wliilc coolies, Ixintnicii, and others, wait-
inir to be hiretl, aie cvi-rvwliere to he inot with.

Here are dentists, letter-writers, fortuiie-teMers,
and liawkers of odds and en»ls, in all directions;
while the harheis have plenty to do shavin<j^ heads
and cleaning cars; water-carriers, hearers of sedan-
eliaiis, coniinfT and goiii«^ in all dii'octions, dressed in
llieir peculiar national costume, with their long tails
eitlier wound ahout their heads or tiailing down
hehind. Tlje sti-eets of Ilong Kong oflor a thousand
reflections to those who have never been brought in
contact with tiie celestial race.

The restaurants, grog-shops, tea-houses, and gam-
Id ing saloons are verv numerous, and imder strict
surveillance of the ])olice; hut what usually at first
arrests the attention of the stranger are the numerous
little niches along the street sacred to Joss, where at
ceitain hours are ))urnt strips of coloured paper and
scented sticks, for some mysterious rite known only
to those strange j)eople. To see tliem at their clmw-
ehow n- of itself a treat, for it is all done openly in
their shops; they have no glass fronts to them, as
we are aoustomed ix) see in most Kuropean cities.
The3^ hav<' the character of being most ])ati<}nt in
poverty, and if ill-luek befalls tliem, they will live on
rice alone and sulVer without muiinuring. A dis-
orderly Chinaman is rare, and a lazy one scarcelv
exists; so long as he has strength to use his hands,

240

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENCfER.

■H

he iieodw no support f'roiii anybocly. EuropcaiiH often
complain of want of work, hut a Cliinaman nevei
does; he always nianajres to find soinethinj^ to do ;
consequently, beggars are but seldom met with
amongst them.

All Chinamen can read, write, and cif)her witli
facility. It is a curious sight to see book-keepers
in the stores tallying up their accounts on a
machine like a gridiron, with buttons strung on
its bars, the difterent rows representing units, tens,
liiindrcds, and thousands. With all the sho|)keepers
the value of the slightest article purchased is calcu-
lated in this way in dollars and cents with great
rapidity. The studs are pushed about from place
to plfice as fast as a musical performer's fingers travel
over the keys of a })iano.

The theatres, or (as they English it) the sing-song
houses, aie amongst their principal amusements,
and exhibit the peculiar traits and character of these
strange people. Being possessed of a language which
may l)e termed the very music of speech, Warn
its capabilities of modulation, gi'cat things might be
ex|)ected ; but the vocal music seemed to us of an
extraordinary character, little resembling any de-
scription of sounds with which we were at all
familiar. Pitched in the highest falsetto tone, the
voice of the singer flies from note to note in the most
singular manner, producing a very unearthly noise,
which has no relation to any conceivable progression

ni'lSIDENTS, SirOPS, ETC.

241

olhumnn sonnds. Nor is tlioir instrumental acconi-
paiiinieiit any better. Tlie musicians are on the
same staple with the actors, with gongs, horns, and
cvmhals. Melody there is none. Tliey blow and l)eat,
and beat and blow, varying the monotony of the
sound by frequent and successive crashes. The
j»l()t of the drama, whether tragedy or comedy, it
is impossible to understand. It seems to have no
l>roper beginning or end, but to go on from day
to day in a succession of battles and love-makings,
until the patience of the audience is exhausted.

After leaving the theatre, we reach the native
(piarter, and passing through "Curio" Street, the first
tiling to arrest our attention being the busy, untiring
iii(histry of the Chinese in their little shops, where
sandal-wood boxes, ivory turning and carvings,
lacqner-ware, tortoise-shell and bronze goods, silks,
and embroidery are laid out in tempting array.

Continuing on through long lengths of streets, we
pass coin and rice mills, dye-houses, blacksmiths,
car[)enters, umbrella and lantern makers, bootmakers,
tailors, and barbers, shops with gaudy swinging
sign-b(jards — tlie several characters noting the name
and style of the firm.

Some of the narrowest parts of the road we find
(juite a difficulty in passing, from the crowds of
l)urcha8ers and vendors of fish and pork atid vege-
tables and endless other articles of food, whose stall;
and t^ibles occupy the side walks in front of the

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

^./

1.0

I.I

11.25

1^ 128 1 2.5

ISO •^" Use

1^ mil 2.2

i£ U2.0

U 116

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

ri>^

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 873-4S03

1 . )-■'

242

CRUISE OF KM.S. CnALLENGEB.

shops. Jostling on amongst this busy scene, we
hear the constant *' Ah ho ! " of the palankeen-
bearer, causing us fresh confusion at every step. At
length we turn down a small side-street, where are
gambling-houses, money-changers, Joss temples,
samshu and sing-song houses, from which are heard
the screaming of song and the twanging of the
stringed lute.

We enter a temple, whose outside is adorned with
gilding and lacquer, and quaint designs of birds,
animals, and unreal monsters.

They have a religion of some sort, as Wang Heng
(a very intelligent Chinese with whom I was ac-
quainted) assured me, with churches and endow-
ments as in England ; that is to say, they have the
system, but not the faith. I had supposed all along
that the curiously constructed temples, sacred to Joss,
had more or less of a religious character about them,
but I was now undeceived. M}'^ habit on passing
these edifices was to call in and see what was going
on, and one day I found out that Joss was nothing
more than a fortune-teller, after the manner of the
Oracle of Delphos.

When inside the temple, we see the figure of Joss
placed on high, with ornaments of peacocks' featliers,
whilst long streamers of coloured ribbon, pictures, and
flowers, presents of tea, oil, or opium, lighted tapers
in coloTH'ed wax, joss sticks burning slowly, and
sending tlieir perfume around, heaps of joss paper

\ fifZ^'>^£i

^£i<J^Jkait c£t1KjlBauifeiMM

JOSS, THE MYSTERY.

213

.smoulderiiii^ in travs, bamboo boxes, with bundles
of f^mall sticks, on the end of which are inscribed
certain cabah'stic characters, surround the figure. At
ceitain Ijours in the morning the tem])Ie becomes
sacred. It is the liour of divination. -Any one now
alxjut to undertake a journey or make a purcliase,
and desirous of knowing if l)e will arrive in safety
or make a profita])le investment, comes to Joss.
He pays his obeisance by profoundly bowing and
salaaming, tlien lights a certain number of matches
or tapers, and makes a present ; after a while,
wlien it is thouglit Joss is conciHated, the suppliant
takes the box of marked sticks, and, after shaking
them about, selects half a dozen and passes them to
the priest, or Sheong-ti (son of heaven), in attend-
f.nce, who refers to the book of mysteries, and there
reads the will of Joss. If he is warned of misfor-
tune, he forbears the journey, or declines the bargain,
and waits for a more fortunate day. If Joss advises
otlierwise, and a good profit is the result, the happy
merchant makes a substantial present. Joss is
therefore (as will be seen) a fortune-teller, and
nothing more, and Sheong-ti is only a sensible,
cunning fellow, who prefers to live by the credulity
of his neighbour rather than by the labour of his
hands.

Buddhist temples literally swarm over China. The
officiating priests are consequently very numerous.
The gods they worship are the three precious

R 2

li!]i

illl^

1 '

244

CRUISE OF H.M.S. GHALLENGEB.

Buddhas — the past, present, and future. These
images are usually of gilded wood, represented half
naked, with woolly hair, in a sitting position : one
holding the mundane egg in its lap, one adorned
with the sacred thread, and one engaged with
its finger upraised, as though instructing mankind.

In front of these three images are usually three
smaller ones, representing the goddess of mercy, the
god of war, and one described as the protectress of
seamen. A high table for candles and incense stands
before these images, and in the centre of the build-
ing is a large metal cauldron for burning coloured
paper, while near at hand are the great bell and
drum which are sounded to arouse the attention of
the god when any important persons arrive : these
things, with a few cushions and mats on which
the worshippers kneel, make up the furniture of a
Buddhist temple.

These people have no Sabbaths, nor periodical
seasons of rest ; the only cessation from their daily
toil is the Feast of the New Year, when they gene-
rally have a week's holiday.

During the stay here. Captain Gr. S. Nares received
telegrams from the Admiralty, offering him the
command of the Arctic Expedition, fitting out in
England. This was a great blow to us all, for he had
acquired the full confidence and regard of those who
were associated with him, and it was considered on
all hands a most unfortunate event that he should be

These
ed half
n : one
,dorDed
i with
kind.
J three
:'cy, the
Tess of

stands
! build-
Dloured
ell and
tion of
: these

which
of a

liodical
daily
gene-
reived
the
it in
had
who
Id on
Id be

CAP'^AIN NAIiES LEAVES FOE ENGLAND. 245

removed from tlie liead of our expedition, which had
hitherto worked so well, and produced such valuable
practical results, under his direction. Still we could
not help recognising the importance of having one
of his experience in command of tiie Arctic Expedi-
tion, which will have the best possible chance of
coming to a successful issue under his guidance.

On the 10th December he left (accompanied by
Lieut. Aldrich *) in the mail-steamer for England,
taking all our liearty good wishes ; " and may God
bless him and his endeavours," we all fervently echo.
Captain F. T. Thomson, who was on the station in
command of the Modeste, is appointed to take Captain
Nares' place, and all we have to hope is that the
remainder of the cruise will go on as successfully as
it has hitherto done.

Jan. M, 1875. — At length the seven weeks have
passed ; the mail is in, after some grumbling at it
being a few days late ; for now if the gun announcing
its arrival does not fire within tlie forty-two days,
everybody begins to com})lain — fewer days nearly
than a century ago it required weeks.

• Who was succeeded by Lieut. A. Cuipeuter,

^ 1

\¥

' >

ill

INDIAN VILLAGE ON THE BANKS OP THE RIVER FASIO, MANILLA.

CHAPTER XL

Hong Kong (China) to Manilla, Zebu, Camiguin, and Samboanga
(Philipi'ine Islands), and to Humboldt Bay (New Guinea).

Leave Hong Kong — Passage to Manilla — Sight a derelict — Tow her into
Manilla — Scenery on the road and river — Leave Manilla — Passage
through San Bernadino Straits — Numerous islands in sight —
Arrive at Zebu — The town —Dredging for Euplectellas off the
island of Slactan — Our success — Leave Zebu — Passage to Camiguin
— The new volcano— Its eflFect on the surrounding country — Anchor
oif the village of Abajo — Proceed along the west Coast— Anchor
off Samlwanga— The scenery — Visit the island of Basilan— Get a
supply of coal — Leave the Philippine Islands — A course shaped
for Greenwich Island — New route to and from Australia to China
— Unfavourable weather— Sounding and dredging — Cross the
Equator (third time)— Course altered for New Guinea — Land in
sight — The scenery and prospects of exploration — Anchor in
Humboldt Bay, New Guinea.

The morning of January 6 all was ready, and after
receiving a great number of visitors, all bidding us

it-i

ANTLLA.

MBOANOA

inea).

w her into
—Passage
I sight —
s off the
Damiguin
-Anchor
-Anchor
In— Get a
shaped
|to China
ross the
(Land in
ichor in

after
ing us

PASSAGE TO MANILLA.

247

good-bye and a pleasant cruise, at noon a move
was made from the anchorage, the bands in the
various vessels playing the farewell tunes, for there
were a goodly number in port of English, French,
Russian, Austrian, and Prussian nationalities.

And now farewell to China, as we steam out
through the Lye-moon Pass, and long before night-
fall the long, low coast was out of sight.

The passage from Hong Kong to Manilla was, as
is usual at this time of the yea^' a most disagreeable
one. On the morning of the 8 th January the wind
fell somewhat, and soundings were obtained, showing
a depth of 2100 fathoms, with a bottom of pale grey
ooze. A series of temperatures was taken at inter-
vals of 50 fathoms down to 400 fathoms, and 100
fathoms down to 1000 fathoms.

This station was just about the middle of the China
Sea, so that the serial observations were somewhat
interesting. At 900 fathoms the temperature was
36° Fahr., and this was maintained to the bottom ;
so that a layer of water 1200 fathoms in thickness,
at a uniform temperature of 36°, occupies the basin
of the China Sea. From these results I believe the
conclusion arrived at was that this sea is cut off
by a barrier, which rises to a height of between
800 and 900 fathoms below the surface, and so is
prevented from communicating with the Antarctic
basin.

On the morning of the 10th the weather had

4 \

248

CRUISE OF U.M.S. CHALLENGER.

moderated, when a vessel apparently in distress was
o])served on the horizon. Our course was altered,
and as we neared the stranger, grand visions of prize-
money or salvage flitted through our brain ; but on
closing it was found to be a miserable old brig of
some 50 or 60 tons, without either masts, cargo, or
anything else, all having been cleared out before
being abandoned. Still we took her in tow, passing
along the west coast of Luzon, its bold outlines and
rugged volcanic ranges, covered with luxuriant
tropical vegetation, in full view.

The next day, January 11th, we entered the
harbour of Manilla. Soon after anchoring we
were visited by the various officials, and by repre-
sentatives from the Spanish, Russian, and Prussian
vessels in port. One of our own vessels was also
here, H.M.S. Elk, homeward bound from the China
station. Just before we left Hong Kong, Admiral
Shadwell had received a telegram from England
announcing the proclamation of Don Alfonso as
King of Spain, and we were the first to bring
the news to the Philippines. It was difficult at
first for the Spanish colonists to really credit the
news, coming on them so unexpectedly. It caused
no excitement, nor were there any steps taken by
the authorities to make it public.

The city of Manilla (proper) is surrounded by
ramparts, and has running through it a broad river,
navigable for ten miles, up which we went in the

fiteam-pinnace till reacliing the landing-i)lace, near the
office of tlie Cai)taiii of the Port, on the right bank of
the stream. Everybody rides here, and numbers of
L'glit and handy vehicles are always at hand waiting
for hire. Driving through Binonda, the commercial
capital, we find the bulk of the business p-'ople, full
of life and activity, the cigar factories of themseh es
giving employment to thousands of men, women, and
girls — the scenery from either bank of the river par-
ticularly fine, whether amid the wharves, warehouses,
and busy population on the right, or the churches,
convents, and public walks on the left. In all direc-
tions, particularly on the left bank and its neigh-
bourhood, we seldom meet with a carriage or a
traveller seeking to enjoy the beauty of the fine
scenery of river, road, or villages. One could almost
imagine, and expect to find, skiffs and pleasure-
boats without number on the river, and yachts and
other craft in the bay, ministering to the enjoyment,
and adding to the pleasures, and easing oft' the
monotony, of life ; but there are none. By me,
the country villages, the beautiful tropical vege-
tation, the banks of the rivers, and the streams
adorned with scenery so picturesque and pleasing,
will not be easily forgotten. Almost every house
in these Indian villages has a pretty little garden,
with bamboos, plantains, and cocoa-nut trees, and
some have a greater variety of fruit. Nature has
decorated them with spontaneous flowers, which hang

:!r:i

250

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

from the branches or fences, or creep up around the
simple dwellings.

While here, the English residents made our stay
as agreeable as possible. There was a dance at
the Consulate, and this with two or three cricket-
matches soon brought the time round to say farewell
to Manilla.

We left Manilla on the evening of the 14th January,
and on the 15th passed down San Bernadino Straits,
with land fully in sight on both sides: on the
left, the island of Luzon, with the fine volcano of
Taal, many high volcanic peaks richly wooded
to the top, and low intervening volcanic ridges,
partially cleared, with here and there pretty groups
of cottages, and patches of yellowish grass or bright
green sugar-cane ; on the right, the islands of Cabra
and Lubang, and then the long stretch of coast of the
wild island of Mindanao, showing little cultiv?iion,
but said to be full of deer and other game, and to
be inhabited by a dangerous race of " Moros," as the
Spaniards call all dark men beyond the pale of
Western or Eastern civilisation.

About noon on the 16th we passed through the
narrows among the islands, and into a little closed
sea, about 70 miles long and 35 miles wide, extending
from the north point of the island of Tablas to the
strait between the north-east angle of Panay and the
south-west point of Masbate. It is bounded on the
north-west by Tablas ; on the north-east by Romplon

-if

AltlilVE AT ZEBU.

251

and Sahiiyau ; on tlie soutli-west and sonth l>v Panav ;
and on the south-east and east by Pulanduta Point,
in Mashate. As this, which we may call for con-
venience the Panay Sea, seemed likely to be ono of
the inclosed basins, presenting peculiarities in i le
distribution of temperature, we stopped to take
serial soundings and to dredge. From a depth of
150 fathoms, to the bottom at 700 fathoms, the tem-
perature was 51'7° Fahr. ; while at the surface it
was 80° Fahr. The other temperatures obtained
were about intermediate between those in the China
Seas on the one side and the Zebu Sea on the other,
leaving' it uncertain whether the cleft in the barrier,
to the depth of 150 fathoms, is between Tablas and
Panay or between Romplon and Sabuyan.

Early on the morning of the 18th we were close
under the east coast of the island of Zebu, apparently
the finest of the Philippines, and we steamed along
the coast all the forenoon. A ridge of hills with a
rugged crest rises almost from the shore, and behind
this there is a second and somewhat higher range.
The first range is cleared nearly to the top, and
above the clearings there is a belt of trees running
to the ridge and fringing it against the sky or
against the foliage of the more distant range. Where
glimpses can be had into the valleys as we pass, it
seems to be well cultivated. The sugar-cane gives,
as usual, the brightest green patches, and the lower
slopes are covered with groves of the Manilla liemp'

: !i

i! \

ni\

i¥ '

■r'

lill

252

CltUISE OF lUI.S. CHALLENGER.

plant, but we were rather too far off to make out the
otlier objects of cultivation. The beach is of purj
white coral sand, and above it are almost continuous
groves of cocoa-nut trees, with here and there grou|)s
of native huts — pretty, light, basket-like dwellings,
mounted on wooden piles 10 or 12 feet high.

About noon we entered the strait between the ill-
starred little island of Matan, where Magalhaens met
his death, and Zebu, and had a distant view of the
monument erected by Queen Isabella II. to his
memory. In the afternoon we anchored off the town
of Zebu, an active business place, with a population
of about 35,000. There are a few roomy and hand-
some houses, but for the most part it consists of a lot
of tumble-down shanties and rickety old buildings,
with a great show of poverty and but little riches.
The chief articles of trade are Manilla hemp and
sugar; coffee is also grown, and tobacco in con-
siderable quantities. Coal of very fair quality has
been found, and would form a lucrative article for
exportation ; but the great difficulty at this place, as
in the rest of these islands, is the scarcity of labour.
The natives will not work. The banana, the cocoa-
nut, and the bamboo supply them with all they re-
quire of food and shelter ; and the additional luxury
of a little rice, and dried fish to flavour it, is pur-
chased at the price of half a day's labour in the
week. The soil is, however, evidently productive to
a marvellous extent; and the same redundancy v^^hich

! :!

|iiil

DliEDGING FOR EUPLECTELLAS.

25?

out the
tf 2:)urj
kinuous
groujxs
ellings,

the ill-

ns met

of the

to his

e town

ulation

hand-

)f a lot

Idings,

riches.

p and

1 con-

iy has

lie for

^ce, as

ibour.

30coa-

jy re-

[xury

pur-

the

^e to

l^hioh

ahnost relieves the natives from the necessity of
work supplies the merchant .vith valuable products
with little effort or outlay.

One special object which we had in selecting the
town of Zebu as one of our places of call was to
make out, if possible, something of the habits and
mode of life of the beautiful sponge, the " Ycnus's
flower-basket,'" which is said to be obtained only at
one spot off* the island of Mactan, close to Zebu. A
party of Indians used to this work were engaged,
and accompanied our " Philos " in the steam-pinnace
to the fishing-ground. They brought with them some
curious and ingeniously contrived instruments with
which they bring the sponges up : two long strips of
bamboo, meeting at an angle of about 45 degrees, to
the outer edges of which are secured some forty or
fifty large fish-hooks, with their barbs set forward
towards the angle. The whole affair is strengthened
with an elaborate system of stays, and weighted with
stones, so as to sink it to the required depth. When
all is ready, it is put overboard, and with a tow-line
dragged slowly over the bottom. After about an
hour has elapsed, it is hauled in, and several Euplec-
tellas are found entangled amongst the hooks. They
have a very different appearance at first from the
cones of glassy network that they afterwards present
when cleaned. The silver beard is clogged vai'^ the
dark-grey mud in which they live, buried to .ibout
one-third of their height, and the network of the

(■

1^:. .<

im\

251 CRUISE OF E.M.S. CHALLENGER.

remainder of the tube is covered with a quantity of
yellow gelatinous matter, which greatly diminishes
their beauty ; however, this coating is easily removed
by washing and bleaching processes. These dredgings
were repeated afterwards with great success, multi-
tudes of these *' Regaderas," as the Spaniards call
them, being obtained, besides several other sponges of
the same group, some of very graceful forms, and
quite new to science.

After coaling it was decided to leave, which we did
on the 24th January, passing down the channel be-
tween Zebu and Bohol. Before leaving our anchor-
age, a very interesting account had been given of an
8,ctive volcano in the small island of Camiguin, near
the coast of Mindanao. As it was but little out of
our way, it was decided to visit it, chiefly with a
view to ascertain whether the immediate neighbour-
hood of volcanic action had any influence on the
temperature or other conditions of the sea- water.

About noon on the 25th we were midway between
the southern point of Bohol and the high, imposing
island of Siquijor; the splendid mountain-range of
Cuernos, in the island of Negros, closing in the view
to the westward, with its dense forest and bright
green vegetation reaching down to the sea. To the
east we could see, at a distance of 50 or 60 miles,
khe island of Camiguin, its volcano giving out both
iimoke and steam. From this distance the top of the
v^olcano seemed just on a level with the water, the

A.m& ll'^jiJtsli^iii]i^

|uantity of
diminishes
y removed
dredgings
ess, multi-
liards call
sponges of
orms, and

Lch we did
bannel be-
ir anchor-
iven of an
^uin, near
tie out of
ly with a
eighbour-
3 on the
ater.
between
imposing
'ange of
;he view
bright
To the
miles,
•ut both
of the
ter, the

VOLCANO IN Tin: ISLAND OF CAMIGUIN. 2r.ri

most ])rominent part of the islinid Ixmhu" an oMei
volcano, whicli rises up behind the active coiio to a
height of upwards of 5000 feet.

Being in shallow water (875 fatlioms) the oppor-
tunity was taken to trawl, and eventually a nndti-
tude of very small sea-urchins, and other specimens
of great interest, were brought up.

On the morning of the ?M\\ we gradually ap-
]U"oached the island, and at noon we were close
under the volcano, when parties of naturalists landed
t(j explore, and the vessel proceeded on and came to
anclior off the little village of Abajo, a few miles
distant. It seems, early in the year 1871, this island
was visited with several violent earthquakes, which
resulted in the first eruption from this volcano ; from
tliis date tlie accumulation of the mountain has been
o'oing on gradually, and apparently with little vio-
lence. The general colour of the cone is a rich
chocolate brown ; it has now reached some 2000
feet in heiglit, and its base has gradually extended
until it entirely covers the town of Camiguin, for-
Uicrly the largest on the island (with a population of
10,000 inhabitants). Now only a few ruined walls
remain of this town, which was formerly on one of
the most fertile and prosperous of the smaller islands
of this archipelago. Since the eruptions the island has
Ijecome almost desolate ; only a few hundred inhabit-
ants remain ; most of the houses are in ruins, and
the paddy-fields and groves of flax are deserted and

19 '. :

■.:]

','!'

ill

ilt.

lliii!;

i li

in !

256

CnVISE OF H.M.S. CEALLENGER.

overirrown with a second jungle. For miles on either
j^ide of the volcano the trees are blighted, and vege-
tation is destroyed by the svilphureous exhalations.
Temperatures were taken in 185 fathoms, close to the
foot of the mountain; but that shown, 57°, was in
no way other than usual at similar depths in these
seas.

From Camiguin we proceeded along the west coast
of Mindanao to Samboanga, a distance of 250 miles
(occasionally sounding and dredging), where we
arrived on the 29th January. The scenery is very
pretty. Indian houses were visible through the
plantain-trees and cocoa-nut groves; and scattered
here and there amidst the woodland of the coast
were storehouses, barracks, and a large fortification,
with the yellow and scarlet flag of Spain flying,
advising us that we were near the seat of govern-
ment. At the landing-place is a convenient wooden
pier, with a lighthouse on it, which is carried out for
some distance in the harbour. From the appearance
of the town, I should think that it is not likely to
become a port of much importance : there seems but
little capital invested, and the trading establishments
are on a small scale. The few stores seem to be
occupied by Chinese, who supply all the wants tlie
population appear to have.

In the immediate neighbourhood of the town the
roads are in tolerably good order, and the country is
rich in all the varieties of tropical vegetation ; but

Ilia"*"'

''•'•IP

NEW BOUTE FROM AUSTRALIA TO CHINA. 257

s on either
and vege-
xhalations.
ilose to the
7°, was in
8 in these

west coast

250 miles

where we

ry is very

'ough the

scattered

the coast

tifi cation,

in flying,

govern-

t wooden

d out fbi'

>pearance

likely to

eems but

ishmeiits

rn to 1)0

mts tlie

)wn the

|nntry is

)n; but

the interior of the island is not well known, for
the Spanish authority appears to be confined to a
narrow strip of land along the coast; and as tlie
Spaniards allow the wild Malay tribes to be governed
by their own rajahs, very little is done towards
civilising them, or opening up its resources, which
(if report be true) include gold, silver, and quicksilver
mines. One day we proceeded to the island of
Brtsilan, some 20 miles distant, and took in a supply
of coal from the government depot, and then re-
turned to our late anchorage, swung ship for mag-
netic and azimuth corrections, and finally left on
the 5th of February.

The winds were light, and for the most part un-
favourable for reaching Greenwich Island, which it
was desirous to sight, so as to fix the correct position
of this rock. Recently a new route from Australia
to China and Japan has been advocated, including
in its track a course somewhat near the position
assigned to this island. A vessel leaving Sydney,
after reaching 20° south latitude, would make for
Teste Island, the weathermost of the Louisiade group,
to the west of the enormous reefs stretching to the
eastward for about 200 miles. The discoveries made
by H.M.S. Basilisk have opened up this course; for
the surveys by that vessel show that, immediate'y to
the east of Teste Island, the reefs sink from the sur-
face to a depth of 10 or 12 fathoms. From there
a run of 40 or 50 miles brings the vessel to Goshen

i^l

i!l:

'J'

i! II

! il

hill

I i

lilt

iiiiii!l

258

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Straits, when all risk ceases, and the open sea is
gained. The weather for some days was dull, gloomy,
and squally, with showers of very heavy rain^ so that
but little progress could be made to the eastward ;
frequent soundings and occasional dredgings were
made from an average depth of 2000 fathoms, with
but scanty results.

Finding the prospect of being able to reach Green-
wich Island getting more and more improbable, it
was decided on the 21st February to shape a course
for New Guinea ; and later in the day we crossed the
Equator for the fourth time. In the afternoon of
the 23rd we sighted Moimt Cyclops, in New Guinea ;
this is a high serrated ridge, rising 6000 feet from the
level of the sea, and covered with dense tropical
forests up to its summit. Shortly after. Cape Caillie
and Cape Bonpland came into view ; they are two
rocky bluffs which mark the entrance into Humboldt
Bay, so named by Dumont d'Urville, who, in com-
mand of the Astrolabe, visited this part of Papua
in August 1827 ; the only other vessel recorded is
the Dutch war-steamer Etna, which anchored here
in 1858. Opposite to Mount Cyclops rises Mount
Bourgainville, over 4000 feet high, most lovely and
fertile, springing abruptly from the ocean, with its
green heights piled gracefully together, presenting
a mass of evergreen vegetation most inviting to
the eye. This was our first view of the shores of
New Guinea, and all gazed with profound interest at

•pen sea is
ill, gloomy,
ain_, so that
eastward ;
^ings were
horns, with

ach Green-

irobable, it

pe a course

crossed the

ternoon of

w Guinea ;

)t from the

ie tropical

pe Caillie

y are two

Humboldt

in com-

of Papua

corded is

)red here

3s Mount

)vely and

with its

"Tesentinc:

nting to

khores of

Iterest at

SCENERY AND PROSPECTS OF EXPLORATION. 259

what seemed the portal (as it were) to the most un-
known and, up to this date, the least explored region
of the earth. It is well known that but few Europeans
(if any) had ever trodden the shores we gazed upon,
the exploration of which appeared so flattering to the
imagination, so likely to be fruitful in interesting
results, whether to the naturalist, the ethnologist, or
the surveyor, and altogether so well calculated to
gratify the enlightened curiosity of an adventurous
explorer, that all were in high spirits at the apparent
prospect of getting into the interior of New Guinea,
for its plants, birds, animals, and inhabitants would
be entirely a new study ; so speculation ran high
on what the next few days would bring to light as
we neared the anchorage.

The obstacles which hitherto have been said to bar
access to the interior of this continent are fevers,
impenetrable forests, and swarms of hostile cannibals;
but experience has since contradicted more or less
tliese discouraging reports.

The fevers will be found restricted to certain
localities ; the cannibals may, by judicious treatment,
not prove so bad as represented : and the difficulties
of locomotion may be overcome by exploring the
great rivers which are known to reach the coast
from the interior.

For several days past we had noticed numerous
trunks of trees, brought down probably by the river
Amboruth, which forms the delta terminating in

S 2

n 1 1

lii ' '

ii:-.

fill

260

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CBALLENGEB.

Point d'Urville, and is supposed to drain the northern
slopes of the Charles Louis Mountains. It was dark
as we anchored off Cape Bonpland, and at first the
only signs of natives were the numerous lights, which
formed a kind of illumination all round the shores of
the bay.

After a while some voices were heard, and by the
light of lanterns a canoe was seen alongside, manned
by a few dark forms clad only in their ornaments,
consisting of white cockatoo feathers stuck in their
woolly hair, or wreaths of bright scarlet flowers.

rthern
3 dark
st the
which
)res of

by the

anned

nents,

their

irr..(sa.-«T-K »■.

THE LANDING-PLACE ON WILD ISLAND, ADMIRALTY ISLANDS.

CHAPTER XII.

Humboldt Bay (New Guinea) to Nares Harbour (Admiralty
Islands), and to Yokohama (Japan).

In Humboldt Bay — Natives alongside — Impressive appearance of the
savages — Attempted landing frustrated— Hostility of the natives —
Their villages, canoes, &c. — Leave the coast of New Guinea —
Admiralty Islands in sight — Anchor in Nares Harbour— Natives
alongside — Bartering — Landing at Wild Island — The natives at
home — Description of the islands— Survey of the group — Leave
the Admiralty Islands— Course shaped for the Ladrone Islands —
Deepest sounding for the cruise — Unsuccessful in reaching either
Ladrone or Caroline Islands — The Japan Isl ands in sight — Enter
the Bay of Yedo— Beautiful scenes — Anchor off Yokohama.

The next morning at dayhght showed that we were
in a most interesting and beautiful bay. The ship
was surrounded by about eighty canoes, each

262

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGED

ill

manned by half a dozen savages, armed with bows,
arrows, spears, and stone hatchets. It was decided
to shift oiir position for one farther up the bay ; and
as the screw made its first revolution, the astonished
natives pointed their arrows at it, as if they expected
some enemy to rise from the foaming watero.
Slowly we steamed on our way, followed by all the
canoes on starboard and port sides doing their utmost
to keep pace with us.

At this moment the scene before us was probably
the most novel and most impressive of all that
had been witnessed in the course of the expedition.
Above a sunny sky, swept by a morning breeze ; in
the background the hilly shores of the bay, covered
with the most luxuriant foliage, the trees crowding
down to the water's edge, and dipping their boughs
into the white breakers ; around us a moving mass
of dark brown figures, some decked with leaves,
flowers, and birds' feathers, others in enormous
frizzled wigs and all the savage glory of war-paint,
])reastplates, bows, and arrows — all joining in a
monotonous chant, in unison with the sound of
the conch-shell ; in the centre the Challenger, at this
moment the only representative of Western civilisa-
tion in this rarely visited region — a period of two
thousand years of progress separating us from the
people we had come to see. It was intended to re-
main near the shore off one of the villages, but no
safe anchorage could be found : tlie bottom seemed

in a

of
this
lisa-
Itwo
the
re-
no
led

•3

■J

-1

Mil

: if

liji

1 '

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§\

IMPBESSIVE APPEARANCE OF TEE SAVAGES. 263

to be composed of loose stone and masses of coral
rock ; so after all we had to anchor in mid-channel in
40 fathoms. The canoes remained around us, and a
lively trade soon sprang up between the ship's com-
pany and the savages. To one unfamiliar with the
South Sea trade it was rather a surprising spectacle
to see an armful of weapons, belts, necklaces, and
earrings, the result of many days' patient labour, ex-
changed for a few pieces of rusty hoop-iron or a
string of beads. Bartering thus went on all day ; and
when the natives saw some of the trade gear with
which we were supplied, it was surprising how their
cupidity was excited, and their evident willingness
to part with anything and everything they possessed
for small hatchets, knives, beads, or iron. The
noise and scrambling alongside while this trading was
going on baffles all description ; for, besides the usual
talking and shouting, they had a singular habit of
directing attention to their finery by a loud, sharp-
sounding ss, ss ! — a kind of hissing sound equivalent
to " Look at this !" In their bargaining they were
generally very honest, passing up the articles
selected on the end of their fishing-spear, receiving
in exchange the pieces of hoop-iron, which seemed to
be much prized by them ; at the same time showing
great eagerness to obtain the small hatchets and
long knives, but seemingly attaching little value to
calico or handkerchiefs, although a gaudy pattern or
bright colour was sure to attract their attention.

ii !:

2G4

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

As soon as we anchored, all our boats were got
out, as it was intended to spend a week here and
make a survey of the bay ; and great were the pre-
parations amongst the naturalists and oth rs at the
prospect of exploring the beautiful forests, &c.,
stretched out around us, where altogether every-
thing was likely to be new.

On the first of the boats approaching the shore,
it was closed upon by a number of savages in
their canoes, and all that could be stolen they laid
hands on. A second boat was similarly treated, and
they evidently opposed any landing being made with
hostile demonstrations, bending their bows and inti-
mating their intention to shoot if we persisted in the
attempt. Yery judiciously we gave way, although
all were fully armed, and the boats returned to the
ship, every one feeling disappointed at the result.

Later in the day another attempt was made to
land at a village on the other side of the bay ; and
as the shore was approached, a few natives, who
appeared on the platform (which connects their
different huts), assumed a threatening attitude at
first, but as the party neared, they seemed convinced
of their peaceful intentions, and avowed a landing to
take place on the beach. A large crowd soon col-
lected around us, and followed in our track through
the village. The natives met with have a dark
brown skin ; they are rather short, but otherwise
well-formed, with woolly hair usually stained with

DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES.

205

a red powder, good forelieads, eyebrows sligVitly
contracted, broad flat noses, witb wide nostrils,
generally adorned witb a pair of boar's tusks, wbicb
give tbem a very fiei'ce appearance ; tbick lips,
retreating chin, and sometimes a little beard and
wbiskers. Tbe ornaments worn by tbum were very
numerous, besides wbicb tbey seemed to be very fond
of decorating tbeir person witb flowers and strong-
scented plants. In wbat migbt be considered full
dress (?), witb tbeir face and body painted (tbe most
common fasbion was a broad streak down tbe fore-
bead and a circle round eacb eye, witb daubs of
paint round tbe moutb, and some over tbe entire
body, rendering tbem inexpressibly bideous in our
sigbt), tbey were often decorated witb belts and
breastplates made of tbe bones of tbe cassowary and
dog, together witb long streamers of pandanus leaf.
Tbey wear busby wigs of frizzled bair, dyed in
various colours ; bracelets and armlets of woven
grass, and necklaces of sbell, black seed, and dog's
teeth.

Nearly every one was armed with bows and
arrows. The bow is made of a tough, black, close-
grained wood, the string being of bamboo. Their
arrows consist of a head of cocoa-nut wood or bam-
boo, tipped into a light reed, and secured by a neat
cane-plaiting. Tbey are variously barbed on the
edges, and some are so constructed as to break off
in the wound and remain there.

1 )|

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266

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

Unlike the men, who were entirely naked, the
women wear a sort of apron, about a foot square,
made apparently of the pandanus leaf, divided into
long grass-like shreds ; their hair is cut short. Of
personal ornaments, they had none ; this seems to be
almost the exclusive privilege of the men.

They would not permit us to look into their huts ;
so no idea could be formed of what they were like.
The village consisted of some dozen or twenty houses,
built on a platform on slender posts standing in the
water, and connected with the mainland by a sort of
bridge. They have tall tapering roofs, covered wi:h
palm leaves. As it was not considered safe to
venture far (for they are known to be a treacherous
race), after a few hours, the pinnace returned to the
ship, still followed by a flotilla of canoes, with the
lively and excitable natives trying to keep pace.
The canoes, usually from 20 to 30 feet in length,
are made from the trunk of a tree hollowed out
like a long trough, roundly pointed at each end,
not more than 18 inches wide; the sides bulge out
below, and fall in again at the top, leaving only
some 8 or 9 inches between the gunwales. The bow
and stern are alike, and usually carved in various
devices, some resembling birds, snakes, or other
familiar objects. A long outrigger is attached, and
on the portion of framing supporting these out-
riggers are planks or long bamboos, forming a small
stage, which will accommodate two or more persons,

ADMIRALTY ISLANDS.

267

■^9

)Ut

ilv

)W
)11S

ler
lud
lut-
jall
Ins,

and on which articles for barter are stowed. The
paddles have spear-shaped blades, measuring about
6 feet in length ; some of very neat description, with
blade and handle carved with some fanciful device.

As nothing farther could be done here, steam was
in requisition, and before night set in we were fairly
off, and out of sight of land. For a week we shaped
an easterly course foi the Admiralty Islands, sighting
Boissy Islands, and on the 28th one of the Schouten
Islands, and a few days later the Hermit group.
Frequent soundings and dredgings were undertaken
with good results, from an average depth of 2000
fathoms. The morning of the 3rd March turned out
cloudy and wet. As the day advanced and the horizon
cleared, three small islets were seen, which, according
to D'Entrecasteaux's chart, lie off the north-west
extremity of the Admiralty Islands. Shortly after-
wards two other small islands came into view, all
situated apparently on the same coral reef As we
approached, several canoes were seen under sail,
crossing the line of breakers ; and as they passed
alongside, the natives made signs of amity by holding
up their arms. On nearing the anchorage we found
ourselves in the midst of a number of beautiful
islands, all girt with white encircling reefs. Each
seemed to have its own peculiar beauty ; but the eye
as well as the mind felt more satisfaction in resting
on what was afterwards named Wild Island, whore a
fine beach was seen, protected from the heavy swell

ii I

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.«»sM' ji«'«ww lapd

268

CBUISE OF H.m.S, CHALLENGER.

by extensive coral reefs, and affording % convenient
landing. The whole island was clad in a thick
forest of tropical vegetation. Having reached a
convenient anchorage (which was afterwards named
Nares Harbour), the beautiful view before us, and
the smoke rising from the native huts between the
trees completed a perfect landscape.

Next morning at sunrise we beheld a repetition
of the scene witnessed in Humboldt Bay. The ship
was surrounded with natives, all eager to trado, and
the noise made by their combined voices was deaf-
ening. The principle articles of exchange were tor-
toise-shell spears, stone knives, axes, earrings, brace-
lets, ornaments worn from the nose, circular plates of
white shell, some finely carved bowls, and models of
canoes, &c. Hoop-iron and trade-gear (small hatchets,
calico, beads, and knives) formed the medium of
exchange. To describe the scene alongside is alto-
gether impossible. We soon discovered that there
would be no difficulty in establishing a good under-
standing with these people, and almost immediately a
landing was effected, all being armed so as to be on
the guard against any treachery ; for these islanders
are of the same race as those inhabiting the Solomon
group, and travellers speak of them as hostile and
treacherous. Of their being cannibals, there can be
no doubt ; so at our first intercourse great caution
was certainly necessary. After a while, hcpwever,
when we had got somewhat familiar, and numerous

EB.

ft convenient
id in a thick
ig reached a
'wards named
efore us, and
i between the

d a repetition
ay. The ship
[• to trade, and
ices was deaf-
ange were tor-
jar rings, brace-
rcular plates of
and models of
^small hatchets,
he medium of
ongside is alto-
3red that there
J a good under-
t immediately a
[ so as to be on
: these islanders
ng the Solomon
I as hostile and
lis, there can be
;e great caution
while, however,
r, and numerous

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THE NATIVES AT HOME.

209

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presents had been given to the chiefs, there was no
obstacle in the way, and we were free to wander
through the village, and even enter their houses and
see their women and children.

The village consisted of a large number of huts,
built of logs of wood, covered with a solid tlmtch
of palm-leaves, with a fence of the former material
surrounding every three or four. The paths and
open spaces through the settlement were strewn with
white sand, and inside the fence were seen some
attempts at ornamental gardening, several bright
flowering shrubs being selected.

The natives are somewhat darker (a kind of sooty
brown) than those met wi+1; in Humboldt Bay. The
expression of their faces was decidedly intelligent,
and sometimes very pleasing. We noticed no signs
of bows or arrows amongst them ; their only weapon
of defence being a spear, which they make of
obsidian, a hard volcanic glass. This is split into
the required shape, and fixed to the head of the
shaft with fibre coated with gum.

Their clothing is very simple ; the women wearing
a broad belt round their waist, to which are suspended
leaves and grasses reaching to their knees, and
the men nothing but a large white shell {Ovulum
ovum). They have bracelets and armlets, made of
plaited grass and fibre, and belts of similar material.
Some had bracelets of large sea shells (grinding out
the middle and rounding the edges); and ornaments

n\\

ill

■—"'"''■•' -"Tr-"::'

270

CBUTSE OF n.M.S. CHALLENQEB.

of similar character were hung round their neck and
in their ears, which in some cases were dra^rged down
to such an extent that the lower tips of the lobes
were within a few inches of resting on their shoulders.
The septum of the nose was pierced, and from it was
suspended a number of teeth of the dog, or cuscus,
strung on a fibre (hanging in front of their mouth), or
a long piece of bone was reeved through from side to
side. Human arm-bones, covered with feathers, &c.,
of the cassowary, hung down their backs. They
were in most cases painted over the body, with
pigments probably made from pounded charcoal,
mixed with cocoa-nut oil, or lime made from burnt
shell.

The particular vanity of these people, especially
the men, was their hair, which was usually frizzled
up into mop-like shape, or tied in some fantastic style
on the top of the head, and coloured with a red clay
and oil. Nearly all carried in their hair a comb pro-
jecting in front or on one side, usually made of wood,
about a foot in length, with six very long, slightly
diverging, needle-shaped teeth ; the handle usually
decorated with feathers and long streamers. Both
sexes had their shoulders and arms roughly tattooed.
They appeared to be much astonished at our white
complexion, which they at first took for the effect of
white paint ; nor were they satisfied on this point for
some time (not until they had actually felt and seen
closely). This would almost confirm the supposition

r neck and
crged down
the lobes
shoulders,
rom it was
or cuscus,
mouth), or
rom side to
ithers, &c.,
ks. They
3ody, with
I charcoal,
from burnt

, especially
illy frizzled
itastic style
1 a red clay
\ comb pro-
,de of wood,
ng, slightly
die usually
Qers. Both
ily tattooed.
,t our white
the effect of
lis point for
elt and seen
supposition

ORNAMENTS OF PRESS, AND WEAPONS, rSED BY THE NATIVES OF NEW GUINE

AXD THE ADMIRALTY ISLANDS.

ii-or description, ste oppositt lage.)

CANNIBALISM.

271

that these people had never previously seen any
white men. They are, as I remarked before, very
fond of using paint as a means of personal adorn-
ment ; black, red, and white being their favourite
colours, with which they also paint their canoes, door-
posts, weapons, wooden bowls, and idols. There was
not the least indication of any advance made towards
civilisation ; yet, with all this, they show a certain
amount of intellectual development and feeling for
art, decorating their canoes, houses, weapons, and
almost every domestic utensil, with elaborate carving
and painting. In all our researches and wanderings
over the islands we saw no signs of graves, nor could
we ascertain with any degree of certainty how they
disposed of their dead. From signs they made, such

Description of Illustrations facing this page.

Figs. 1, 3. Obsidian pointed spears (Admiralty Islands).

Fig. 3. Hair ornament (Admiralty Islands).

Figs. 4, fi, ti. Ornaments of shell and tortoise shell worn on the forehead

(Admiralty Islands).
Fig. 7. Musical Instrument (Admiralty Islands).
Figs. 3, 9. Fish hooks made of shell (Admiralty Islands).
Fig. 10. Bone ornaments worn through the septum of the nose (New Guinea).
Fig. 11. Knife made of obsidian (Admiralty Islands).
Fig. 12. Plaited graas belt (Admiralty Islands).
Figs. 13, 14. Armlets of plaited grass (Admiralty Islands).
Figs. 15, 16. Plaited grass ankl'-ts (A.dmiralty Islands).
Fig. 11, Shell bracelet (Admiralty Islands).

Fig. 18. Nose ornament made from dog and cuscus teeth (Admiralty Islands).
Figs. 19, 20. Combs (Admiralty Islands).
Fig. 21. Necklace of dogs' teeth (Admiralty Islands).
Figs. 22, 24, 26. Necklaces of bone, shell, and berries (New Guinea).
Fig. 23. Comb (New Guinea).
Fig. 26. Head of stone hatchet (New Guinea).
Fig. 27. Shell, full-dress of a man (Admiralty Islands).
Fig. 28. Bone nose ornament (Admiralty Islands).
Fig. 29. Shell adze (Admiralty Islands).
Fig. 30, 32. Chlnam holders (Admiralty Islands).
Fig. 31. Grass bag (Admiralty Islands).

Fig. 33. Ornaments of human bone and cassowary feathers (Admiralty Island!)
Jig. 34. Waist-belt made of small sbells (Admiralty Islands).

.\^

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272 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEH.

as placing a large earthen vessel on the fire, and indi-
cating that they cut off parts of the body, place
in the vessel, and afterwards eat them, our sus-
picions were aroused that they honour the memory
of their friends and relations by eating them. At
all events, they had no objection to sell human
skulls, of which several were procured, and no sacri-
fice seemed too great for them if they could only
get hold of that priceless material — iron hoop.

We have no record of any visit of Europeans to
these islands since that of D'Entrecasteaux, in 1792,
who did not land, and could not prevail on any of
the natives to visit his vessel. But from the first we
seemed to have established a good understanding,
and our stay was sufficiently long to render us
familiar with the faces of our daily visitors. Their
conduct seemed always cheerful and friendly, and
they had no objection to come on board, and submit
to the processes of being photographed, weighed, and
measured.

Thus a week passed. Tlie bay, reefs, and islands
were surveyed and named, and many a pleasant day's
sport had on Pigeon Island, where there were num-
berless birds and pretty tropical scenery. The survey
and magnetic experiments being completed, on the
10th March we steamed out of Nares Harbour, not
without regret at leaving these interesting savages ;
and before sunset they and their beautiful islands had
sunk below the horizon.

indi-
3lace

BUS-

mory

Qinan

sacri-

only

).
ms to

1792,
any of
irst we
Liiding,
der us

Tlieir

y, and
submit
d, and

I islands
Lt day's
\g nnm-
I survey
on tlie
|)ur, not
^vages ;
ids had

DEEPEST SOUNDING.

273

Leaving the Admiralty Islands on the 10th March,
a course was shaped for Yokohama, with the inten-
tion of reaching Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands.
We lost the trades in lat. 17° north, and after that
had a succession of easterly, north-easterly, and
baffling winds, from every point of the compass
except where it was wanted, thus preventing our
visiting either the Carolines or Ladrones, which were
passed some 100 miles to leeward. On the 23rd
March, in lat. 11° 24' north, and long. 148° 16' east,
bottom was touched at 4475 fathoms, the deepest
successful sounding made during the whole cruise.
Specimens from that depth showed a dark volcanic
sand, mixed with manganese. In consequence of the
enormous pressure at that depth (some five tons on
the square inch) most of the thermometers weie
crushed. However, one stood the test, and showed a
temperature of 33 • 9°, the surface temperature being
80°. Three other attempts were made to determine
the temperature of water at these great depths, but
in every instance the instruments came to the surface
in a damaged condition.

We were clear of the Tropics on the 1st April, but
in consequence of the continued light winds, and re-
peated soundings and dredgings, the thirty-two days
at sea passed somewhat wearily and monotonously.
Three months from Hong Kong ; but the longest
voyage, like the longest lane, must come to an end
at last.

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274

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

April llth. — Early this morning the light on Kii-
wanon Saki, at the entrance of Yedo Bay, was seen
shining brilliantly, and as the day advanced, wind
fell light, steam was got up, and we proceeded on to-
wards the anchorage. Island after island comes in
view as the bay is entered ; many of most picturesque
form, with numerous fishing villages scattered along
the coast. As we move on, places of great interest
are passed : Yokosuka, and soon Kanagawa, then
Treaty Point, and Mandarin Bluff, &c., each place
having a little history of its own in connection with
tlie early days of the Europeans in Japan.

Yokohama is now before us, with the sacred
mountain Fuji-yama, the snow on its high peak look-
ing like frosted silver as it stretches away in the
distance, pointing, cone-like, high into the clouds, and
far above the elevation of the blue mountains that
surround it. On reaching the harbour, and at anchor,
the reward begins. It happened to be a fine day on
our arrival, the sun was shining brightly, and the
few passing clouds cast fleeting shadows on the fine
panorama of hills which form the background, pro-
ducing one of the most pleasing landscapes possible
to see. Even to ordinary observers of the picturesque,
there was much to compensate for the long, weari-
some, monotonous voyage. Many ranges of hills, in
graceful ines, carry the eye far into the distance ;
while the beauty of the shore, with its luxuriant foli-
age, is aided by cloud and sunshine, which give a most

BEAUTIFUL SCENES.

276

lKu-

seen

wind
on to-
[les in
resqne
L along
nterest
t, then
b place
on with

, sacred
ak look-
er in the
uds, and
lins that
anchor,
e day on
and the
the ftne
nd, pro-
possible
turesque,
g, weari-
hills, in
distance ;
riant foli-
ve a most

perfect effect, clothing all the mountain sides with
purple and russet hues, giving a mantle of rich and
ever changing colour to all the headlands and dis-
tant ranges. Junks and boats, with their picturesque
sails, and war-vessels of different nationalitief re
never wanting to give life and movement tc \Q
whole.

There must be something essentially pleasant in
new sensations and novelties in almost every form,
since not only do we give ourselves much trouble to
acquire them, but generally find gratification when
they are secured. No travelling in Europe can rob
Japan of its peculiar claims to admiration under this
head, for nothing in the West resembles a thousand
things that meet the eye. It must often have been
remarked how books or photographs fail to enable
any one completely to realise a new country and
people. Once amongst them, it is discovered imme-
diately that the ideal is something very difterent
from the actual embodiment. This is essentially true
of people, towns, and streets, and the effect of cos-
tumes, differing widely from those to which the eye
has been accustomed. Certainly, as regards the first
view of Japan, there are special items, in the figure,
physiognomy, costume, and customs of the people, for
which even I was not prepared, although I had so
recently seen much of the Chinese.

i :

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T 2

TOMB OF ^^^LL ADAMS and his wife, near Y0K08UKA, JAPAN.

CHAPTER Xlir.

Japan.

Yokohama — The Cemetery — Walks in the environs — Visit Tokio (or
Yedo), the eastern capital — Railway from Yokohama to Yedo —
Jinirikisha — Sojourn at Shiba — The suburbs of Yedo— The streets
and people — " Curio " shops — Lacquer-waro — Street scenes — The
great temple of Asakusa — Japanese wrestlers — Leave Yokohama
for Yokosuka — The imperial arsenal — Cltdlkwjfr in dock — Se-
cluded temple near Yokosuka — Will Adams and wife's tomb — Visit
Kamakura— The shrino of Daibutsu, the great god of Japan — The
tea-houses — Leave for Yokoliama — Yokohama to Kobe — The rough
passage— Take shelter in Oosima — Arrive at Kobe — Anchor in
Osaka Bay — Hiogo, Kobe, and Osaka — Railv/ay to Osaka — Its
people and streets — The great templo of Tonago— Cruise in the
inland sea — The fine and picturesque scenery — Return to Kobe —
Passage to Yokohama — Dredging picnic in Yedo Bay — The results.

The first landing in a new country is generally a
moment of some excitement even to the oldest

fin

;-"rv>'\*l

Tokio (or
() Yedo—
lie streets
lies— The
Yokohama
ock — Se-

b— Visit
I>an— The

ho rough

nchor in
l^aka — Its
ise in the
|to Kobe—

e results.

jrally a
oldest

YOKOHAMA.

277

traveller, for the numberless objects of interest to
be seen at almost every step fill the mind with ad-
miration ; and although it would really take months
to see all (in Japan) in detail, yet it is well
known that, to the sightseer, a great deal may be
crowded into a short space of time ; and so one
was enabled to realise something of this country and
people.

I landed on the 12th April at Yokohama, a town
which has within the past few years risen from a
small fishing village to a place of great importance,
possessing numerous fine buildings, such as a large
town-hall, custom-house, imperial post-office, and
residences for officials and foreign consuls, telegraph
offices, banks, several churches, a railway station, race-
course, and public gardens ; also wide streets, both
in the foreign concession and Japanese quarter, with
business houses of various kinds ; streets lighted with
gas ; and, if so many Japanese were not met with,
it would not be difficult to imagine oneself in some
European town.

There are special points of interest to the stranger
at every step in Yokohama, whether in passing
through the native quarter, where the silk, bronze,
lacquer, porcelain, and curiosity shops are located, or
a pleasant walk over the Bluff — either will give one a
good idea of the topography of Yokohama ; while a
ride by tlie new road around Mississippi Bay and
through the village of Negishi affords tine scenes and

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278

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

accurate, if not fascinating, pictures of ordinary
Japanese life and character.

The cemetery in Yokohama should by all means
be visited : the tombs and epitaphs give a vivid
picture of the stormy days and dangerous times
in the early settlement of Yokohama, when it was
unsafe to venture outside the settlement; for the
Japanese ronin — a creature as cowardly as mur-
derous, since he always struck from behind — was
ever ready to cut down the unwary foreigner.

The most imposing tomb in the cemetery, near tlie
entrance, is that of a murdered Eussian officer. The
bodies of two Dutch captains, killed in Benten, Yoko-
hama ; Major Baldwin and Lieut. Bird, hewn down
near Kamakura ; Mr. Richardson, hacked to pieces
near Kawasaki ; and eleven French soldiers, shot
in cold blood near Osaka, are buried in this place.
Several other tombs, each possessing an historic in-
terest, are here ; in fact, there are few places more
worthy of a visit by the stranger, or more profoundly
interesting to a student of the early days of the
foreigner in Japan.

Piers and cambers run out, and the bay is full of
shipping of many nationalities ; but by far the greater
number fly the national flag of Japan, for the country
possesses several war-vessels and a large coasting
fleet, manned and officered entirely by Japanese.

Walking into the country, we find shady lanes
and trim hedges, with glimpses of wooded hill and

VISIT SEIBA,

279

cultivated valley at intervals, which render the
place so beautiful that they might be transplanted to
England without any violence to the harmony of our
own scenery ; for here m.any of our familiar plants
flourish, and everywhere our common fern may be
seen, and ivy covering the walls, while by the way-
side the thistle is not wanting to complete the
picture.

The visit to the capital, Tokio, was a most interest-
ing treat. The progress already made by the
Japanese in establishing railways removes all diffi-
culties in reaching our destintion. The seventeen
miles between Yokohama and Shinbashi are run over
in somewhat less than an hour, although we stop at
three or four stations on our way; passing some pretty
scenery through garden-bordered streets, and the
open country, with rice and wheat fields everywhere,
indicating, unmistakably, signs of skilled and careful
agriculture. After reaching the city I made my way
to Shiba, travelling in the new vehicle of Japan (the
jinirikisha) to the residence of Mr. Harding, R.N.,
instructor in steam at the Imperial Naval University,
with whom I was to stay for a few days. Merely
telling my conductor, •* Shiba ni iki nasai," off" he ran
along handsome roads, passing continuous rows of
shops, which are open to the streets like stalls at
a fancy fair, and which contained all those articles
seemingly in common request among the people.
Umbrella fan, and shoe stores abound, also eatables

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280

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENOEB.

in any quantity; then basket and lacquer work,
earthenware, toys, and glass ornaments. However,
passing on so rapidly, it was not more than a cursory
glance that could be obtained of the novelties dis-
played. Hundreds of similar vehicles to the one I
was in were passing in all directions ; while the
number of foot-passengers, all apparently happy and
contented, gave the scene an air of life and animation.

Leaving the streets for the suburbs, showy little
cottages, each surrounded by gardens laid out with
tasteful neatness and artistic skill, are passed ; and
so through shady lanes, bordered by hedges with
rich and waving foliage, until reaching the inclosure
where my vehicle stops. ^* Ikura ka," I was taught to
say, and I found I had been riding all this distance
for an ichi-hu. My friend was in waiting to receive
me, and we entered the building he occupies, which
had at one time been attached to a large temple near
at hand, and for which this part of Yedo is famous.
The house appears to have been built in the position
it occupies with a view to the charming prospect it
commands. It has broad verandahs running round
it, every door and partition sliding backwards and
forwards in grooves, instead of opening and shutting
in our ordinary way.

Entering by the doorway, and passing through a
spacious hall, matted according to the government
regulation, which prescribes that every mat manu-
factured throughout the empire shall be of one size,

work,
rever,
irsory
IS dis-
one I
e the
)y and
lation.
r little
it with
I ; and
8 with
closure
ight to
istance
receive
which
le near
amous.
osition
ect it
round
.8 and
utting

[ugh a

Inment

Imanu-

size,

SOJOUBN AT SHIBA.

281

we reach the spacious rooms, the walls and panels of
which were ornamented with paintings of various
animals and figures — tortoises, cranes, dragons, and
wondrous unreal monsters. All the furniture, light,
neat, and airy, with lacquer-ware, china, and bronzes,
gave the entire aspect of the place one of seductive
repose. Opening out from the verandah was a well-
cultivated garden, where most that was lovely in
nature was to be seen : choice flowers and shrubs ;
ponds in which were gold and silver fish, ever ready
to exhibit their lovely tints, amidst water-lilies and
other beautiful aquatic plants. This, then, was to
be my home for the next few days. During my stay
I made the most of the time at my disposal in sight-
seeing, and under the guidance of my host many
a pleasant trip was arranged. We did not confine
ourselves to exploring the city alone, although the
sights to be seen there were of the greatest interest,
but cruised for some miles round, where are snuf^
little villages with fertile fields highly cultivated,
combining to form scenes of beauty and abundance
that can scarcely be conceived.

On one occasion, after passing the imperial resi-
dence, we ascended one of the highest points of the
fortifications in the rear of the castle, from which
a fine panoramic view was obtained of the vast city,
with its two millions and a half of inhabitants,
occupying an area equal to, if not greater than,
London. Looking in aDy direction, the view was

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282

CRUISE OF H.M.8. CHALLENGER,

one of beauty. Everywhere are picturesque scenes ;
hill and dale, clothed with brilliant vegetation of
sparkling green. Up the hillside temples tower
over the more modest houses of the people, and
pretty pleasure villas peep forth from the flowers
alid verdure of the tea-gardens.

After leaving this, the aristocratic quarter of the
city, we went on, passing through streets which
seemed interminable, where shops containing mis-
cellaneous assortments of goods suited to the wants
of the population were to be seen. At last, when
somewhat clear of the crowded thoroughfares, we
found ourselves traversing pleasant suburban lanes,
occasionally passing spacious inclosures, at one time
the homes of powerful princes or daimios, some of
which are said to have afforded accommodation to as
many as ten thousand retainers within their walls.

I was filled with feelings of astonishment and
delight as we passed through fragrant avenues of
peach, cherry, and plum trees in full bloom, over
arched bridges spanning the bright blue river that
flows through the heart of the city ; getting here
and there glimpses of the exquisite taste displayed
in the gardens and cottages along the roadside. No
model estate in England can produce structures
in any way comparable with those which adorn
the suburbs of Yedo. These charming little chdlets,
raising their thatched roofs amid numberless fruit-
trees and creepers, were usually surrounded by flower-

TEMPLES.

283

scenes ;

ition of

IS tower

pie, and

flowers

jr of the
ts which
ing mis-
the wants
ast, when
fares, we
Dan lanes,
one time
3, some of
ition to as
walls,
lent and
[vemies of
[oom, over
iver that
,ting here
displayed

[side. No

[Structures

ich adorn

ile chMets,

[less fruit-

ly flower-

beds and artificial rockeries, laid out with exquisite
taste. Frequently we met men, children, and beauti-
ful girls, amiable, winning, and full of gentleness, in
light and gauzy costumes ; their hair tastefully drawn
from off their forehead, and fastened with gold or
silver pins in graceful knots on the crown. All
seemed happy, talking, laughing, and smiling — their
greetings and salutations assailed us wherever we
went.

Here and there, at the end of long avenues, were
to be seen gorgeous temples embosomed amongst
giant camphor and cedar trees ; standing about at
their entrances were lazy -looking priests with shaven
crowns, in robes of silk and transparent material.
Sauntering up the shady walk, we ascend the steps and
enter the sacred edifice dedicated to Buddha. The
priest, for a few tempos, shows us all that is of interest.
The floors are matted, the pillars lacquered and
richly gilded. A large shrine, with a gilt image
in its recess, gold and porcelain vases, lighted candles
and tapers, surrounded by a forest of artificial flowers,
at once attract our attention. In the rear are the
imperial mausoleums, where lay the remains of Ty-
coons of centuries past. Before leaving, we are
reminded of the collecting boxes in various parts of
the building, where the pious worshipper fails not to
contribute a few *' cash," not as an act of charity,
but to provide the n^eans by which the priest may
be enabled to feed the hungry demons.

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284

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER,

The extensive grounds surrounding the edifice are
beautifully laid out with refreshing groves of laurel,
citron, and peach trees ; miniature bridges span little
streams and fish-ponds, and the number of huge
candelabra in stone and bronze present a most
imposing appearance. Away in the distance ave
wooded hills, with spreading pines and sombre yew-
trees, giving it an air of sheltered repose and secluded
rusticity.

As we got farther in the country, the cottages
became more scattered, but the scenes presented were
equally agreeable, reminding us frequently of the
lanes in Devonshire and some of the fairest portions
of the Isle of Wight.

At frequent and short distances along the road
were little stalls with fruit and tea, the universal
beverage, always hot and ready, to quench the thirst
of the weary pedestrian.

At length we suddenly came upon a little village
embosomed in i . wood. Here we stopped for refresh-
ment at one of the tea-houses situated on the edge
of a stream, the balconies of the upper room over-
hanging the water. Entering, we find, through the
absence of chairs, sofas, and other requisites we
consider essential to our comfort, that, if we would
rest, we must seat ourselves, a la Japanese, on the
clean matting ; and joining a party of Japanese ladies
and gentlemen, with whom my friend was acquainted,
we soon became on the most excellent terms. Re-

TEA-nOUSES.

285

ce are
laurel,
Q little
huge
most
ce a:e
3 yew-
eluded

Dttages
d were
of the
ortions

e road
iversal
thirst

Ullage
jfresh-
edge
over-
rh the
js we
Iwould
m the
ladies
[inted,
Re-

freshments had been ordered, and we were invited to
join ; but my alarm was great when I saw what was
spread before us — lacquer bowls, containing such
odd mixtures : fish, rxw and cooked ; rice, seaweed
and soy ; slices of stvange-looking materials, whether
flesh or fowl, it was difficult to say ; vegetables and
saki. These dishes the pretty girls in attendance
seemed delighted, with roguish fun, to press on us,
apparently for the amusement our wry faces afforded
tliem. It was a hazardous attempt at first, but, after
all, some of the dishes were palatable enough.

By way of dessert, oranges, apples, pears, and
sweets were brought in ; so there was no difficulty
in satisfying our hunger.

Pipes, tea. and saki were afterwards served by our
fair attendants, and after the long walk we were
glad to stretch on the soft matting for repose,
while imbibing the pleasant-flavoured tea, and
inhaling through a short pipe the fragrant tobacco
of Japan.

Afterwards the dancers, the G-eisha girls, with
sam-i-sen, lute, and tom-toms, came tripping in ; but
they elicited from their musical instruments such
discordant sounds that we were glad to take refuge
in che balcony, from which point nothing could have
been more picturesque than the landscape presented ;
the hillsides, dotted /ith temples and tea-houses,
combining to form a scene of beauty that we could
not fail to enjoy.

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286

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENOEB.

As the evening was closing on us, we took leave of
our friends at the tea-house, and retraced our way
back to Shiba in a jinirikisha.

A tour through the business quarter of the city is of
great interest, for at every step something new is to
be seen. The streets are always filled with vast
numbers of people, and run on for miles. The shops
are filled with goods to suit every requirement : some
are rich in specimens of Japanese ingenuity and per-
fection of work in lacquer, porcelain, basket-work, and
bronze, fancy silks, and embroideries spread out in
every tempting form.

Like every visitor, I had come with the intention
of getting some of the many beautiful things in
cabinets and lacquer ware for which Japan is so
famed, but the variety on view is beyond my powers
of description, for we see lacquer trays, oblong, round,
and oval, of beautiful design and wonderfully cheap ,
boxes and cabinets, with every kind of gold tracery
and design, some with birds and trees in raised gold
and bronze relief, as rich as well as can be, of
all prices, from one dollar to five hundred. Besides
these were cabinets of many woods, inlaid, some of
infinite ingenuity and perfection of form, opening
out into a multiplicity of drawers and trays, of
finished workmanship, embossed in silver and gold,
such as could not fail to win the mo«t fastidious of
mortals.

The silk stores and book-shops aro 'iqually attrac-

t '

5, of

;rac-

STBEET SCENES.

287

tive. The carvings in wood and ivory, of groups
and animals, are in the ))est style of art. Figures
and vases in bronze are artistic and marvellous
in their make. China and porcelain from Kiota,
Satsuma, and Nagasaki, beautiful and delicate, with
a thousand other articles, are laid out in tempting
array, puzzling the visitor to decide what to select.
One can walk on for miles and see a repetition of
shops of this description. Wherever we go, the city
is full of life and excitement, with a swarming
population.

The street vendor, with his ambulatory stock over
his shoulder on a bamboo pole, or pitched down at
the corner of a street, is surrounded with a varied
assortment of odds and ends. The acrobat and con-
jurer amuse extensive audiences collected round
them. The story-teller, with his wondrous tales (after
the style of the familiar ' Arabian Nights *), delights
an attentive crowd. Hundreds of officials (army, navy,
and civil service), all in European costume, are deco-
rated with gold lace, gilt buttons, and other insignia
of rank ; even the police and soldiers are after our
own familiar models. Jinirikisha men, coolies, and
porters dragging carts laden with goods, all help to
swell the tide of human life.

Continuing my way, I paid a visit to numerous
temples, and in describing the one at Asakusa, which
is situated in one of the most populous quarters of
the city, I shall nearly convey an idea of the whole.

' ii.

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288

CRUISE OF JIMS. CHALLENGEn.

This is one of the largest and most celehrated in
Tokio. On reaching the locahty, we pass on through
long avenues crowded with men, women, and chil-
dren. Here, on either hand, are stalls filled with
nicknacks of all descriptions, with refreshments, and
troughs containing sacred water, with numberless
sacred towels flying like so many flags. As we
approach the Holy of Holies, a large bronze figure
of Buddha is in view, and we pass on to the building,
gorgeously decorated in gold and lacquer work, with
elaborate and ornamental carved roofs and pillars.
The sacred shrine to which the multitude come to
pray is protected by a large frame of wire netting.
A curious practice seems in force with the hundreds
who pay their devotions here : they purchase from
the priest in attendance small squares of paper, on
which are inscribed certain hieroglyphics ; these
they chew for a time, and then throw as pellets at
the grating (which is consequently covered with
the results). And the precision with which these
pellets strike the grating, or go through the mesh,
determines certain inferences as to good or bad
luck.

Near at hand are large buildings devoted to
various exhibitions, all more or less for the benefit
of the temple (in a pecuniary sense). I went to one,
and saw the wrestlers. This is one of the sights of
Japan. There were some ten thousand visitors
present, and some twenty or thirty performers.

\m\

JAPANESE WliESTLERS.

289

They were men of tall stature and of immense
weight. A circular mound some 10 or 12 feet in
diameter, on a raised platform in the middle of the
building, is the place selected for the performance.
On a given signal two of the number present them-
selves and commence the contest. They eye each
other for a while, as if watching a chance to
catch their antagonist off his guard, stamping the
ground as if with impatience. At length they close
together, a struggle ensues, the result of which is
that one is forced off the mound ; so the contest ends.
This was repeated hour after hour, and the audience
generally, as they also do in their theatres, come pre-
pared to make a day of it ; for waiters with rice,
fi&h, and other eatables, and saki, are constantly
in attendance to minister to the wants of the
spectators.

The streets are full of life and movement. Peoj-le
are wending their way home, or to the bathing-
house, which, strongly lighted up, shows through
its lattice bars crowds of both sexes enjoying the
luxury of the bath. The tea-houses are filling, and
the plaintive sounds from the sam-i-sen are heard
from many of the upper stories. Gaily painted and
figured lanterns are flitting to and fro, and light up
somewhat dimly the shops and roads, for the gas
is not as yet laid on all over the city, and the
law still remains in force that everyone after dark

^ .'II

., •

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> n

MMH

290

CRUISE OF HJLS. CHALLENGEH.

ii :

shall carry a lighted lantern on which his name is
painted.

While here in Japanese waters the opportunity
was taken to have the vessel docked, for at Yokosuka,
a run of 17 miles from the anchorage (Yokohama),
is situated the government arsenal, where some two
thousand Japanese workmen are employed, under the
superintendence of French officers. Here they have
already built two vessels for the Imperial Govern-
ment, and at the present time thei'e is a large paddle-
wheel vessel well on towards completion as a royal
yacht for the Mikado, and engines on the most
approved compound principle, with high-pressure
tubular boilers, are also being prepared. All honour
to this nation, which, after living an isolated life
for centuries from the rest of the world, has now
gone ahead in such an earnest manner, leaving all
that any other Eastern nation has attempted far
behind. In going over the workshops, which are
well supplied with every modern appliance of ma-
chinery for success dly carrying out extensive en-
gineering work, we find that steam hammers, forges,
lathes, and other appliances in the fitting, smiths', and
boiler shops are in full swing ; so a stranger cannot
fail to be struck with the singular combination of
energy and perseverance of these wonderful people,
who within the past few years have thus almost by
themselves laid the foundation of a steam navy, and
taken quite naturally to a modern science which was

CHALLENGEB IN DOCK.

291

to them altogether unknown, notwithstanding the
difficulties encountered at every step. A branch of
the Imperial Naval College at Yedo is situated here,
where the students of marine engineering have the
advantage of studying the practical as well as the
theoretical part of their profession. This department
is under the immediate direction of T. S. Grissing,
Esq., Chief Engineer, R.N. ; and by his judicious
system, and the facilities given to these young men,
the progress they make is really surprising. The
University, of which this is a branch, is situated at
Tokio, with F. W. Sutton, Esq. (Chief Engineer, R.N.),
as director, and W. J. Harding, Esq. (Engineer,
R.N.), as assistant.

The docks are excellent specimens of work. The
longest is 395 feet, in which the Challenger was
placed, and remained for a week, undergoing certain
rejDairs to the rudder, &c. The second dock is of
smaller dimensions, and had the strange-looking
vessel which the government purchased some years
ago from the United States (then known as the steam
ram Stoneivall) under repairs. Basins and jetties
made the arsenal quite complete. The harbour is
spacious, perfectly landlocked, and easy of access.
At the riglit of the entrance to Yokosuka is one of
the small temples, built in a glorious cluster of rare
old trees, under the shade of their branches. In this
temple is retained one of those forms of W()rslii[)
which have come down from a time which it is

u 2

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292

CBUIS^ OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

impossible even to guess at — a worship founded on
the veneration due to the origin of life. Formerly the
shrine was richly embellished with votive offerings
in stone, wood, and paper of all sizes and colours ;
but visitors fri>m time to time have carried off the
principal ones, leaving almost a barren house with
only a few rudely carved offerings.

Near at hand, on the top of a high hill, in the
village of Hemi-Mura, are situated the grave and tomb
of Will Adams (who was the first Englishman to
visit Japan) and his Japanese wife. A large monu-
ment marks that of Adams, a smaller one that of his
wife. Adams was an English pilot, who left Holland
in one of a fleet of vessels bound on a trading voyage
to Japan in 1(j07. After many vicissitudes and great
sufferings by the crews, only the vessel in which
Adams was reached its destination. The crew were
treated p.t first with great cruelty by the Japanese,
but afterwards with leniency and kindness. Adams,
having a knowledge of mathematics and shipbuilding,
ingratiated himself with the Shogun, who promoted
him to a high position, and he lived in Yedo, beloved
by the people, for many years. Not being permitted
to leave Japan, he took to himself a Japanese wife.
Adams himself chose this spot for his resting-
place ; and the people living in Anjin ch6 (Pilot
Street), Tokio, defrayed the expense of the tombs and
lanterns at the grave, and now celebrate an annual
festival in honour of him on the i5th June.

KAMAKURA,

293

From this position tlie scenery is very fine. The
undulating hills, between which we get glimpses of
the open country beyond, where the rice-fields, sur-
rounded with trim hedges, and the wheat-fields of
brightest green carpet the uplands, and the clear
blue waters of the bay stretching before us complete
the charming picture.

In all seasons of the year verdure and beauty of
no common character clothe the hills, broken into a
hundred winding vales for many miles around. After
seven miles' walking through pleasant fields with
trimly kept hedges, passing cheerful country-houses,
we reach Kamakura, which lies in a valley inclosed
by hills. Almost every spot of ground in and around
here is classic to the Japanese, the great bulk of
the vast store of Japanese histories and historical
romance having their chief scenes laid in or near
Kamakura. However, very little now remains of
its whilom greatness. The chief place of interest
to visitors is the Shinto temple of Hachiman. This
temple stands on a plateau reached by sixty steps.
In the courtyard inclosing the buildings are com-
partments in which are displayed some very valuable
and interesting relics. About a mile from here is
the village of Hasemura, near which stands the
famous bronze figure of Buddha, called in Japanese
Dai-butsu; the approach to it is through a very
b'iautiful avenue of evergreens.

The immense casting, although not in one piece, is

W I

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CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

so cleverly jointed as almost to avoid detection. It
stands upwards of 50 feet in height. Its interior is
hollow, and forms a temple, where are numerous gilt
idols, chiefly images of Kunanon, with prayers and
vows of worshippers, written on papers twisted to-
gether. A priest in attendance disposes of historical
books and photographs of this great divinity.

The tea-houses in the vicinity are enjoyable places.
There is always something or other to amusd
visitoia, either gardens with beautiful flowers or aiL
agreeable view of the surrounding country, so a»
to tempt the traveller to enter and enjoy himself.
The eatables, consisting of cakes and various sorts
of fish and vegetables, and often sweetmeats, are
usually far more agreeable to the eye than to the
taste. Tea is the universal drink, but it is not in
accordance with European flavour, tasting somewhat
like an infusion of wood ashes; yet the Japanese
consider it far more wholesome than that which
we are accustomed to use. A favourite drink is
also made from the peach blossom, which is even
worse in flavour than the tea; for the flowers,
after picking, are kept in salt, and, when required,
a slight infusion is made ; these, with saki, a spirit
distilled from rice (which the Japanese are very
fond of), constitute nearly all their refreshments.

Docking ^nd refitting having been completed,
we returned to the anchorage off Yokohama, and on
the 10th May left for Hiogo. After pat^sing through

)n. It
erior is
)U8 gilt
irs and
3ted to-
storical

places,
amuso
3 or aiL
', so a»
himself.
Lis sorta
ats, are
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ipanese
which
rink is
s even
lowers,
[juired,
spirit
J very
ts.

pleted,
md on
trough

ROUGH PASSAGE.

295

the Uraga Channel (where a day was spent in sound-
ing and dredging in 350 fathoms, with very satis-
factory results), and getting clear of the coast, there
was every indication of squally weather ; and soon
after we came in for the full force of the north-west
monsoon, which with squalls, drenching rain, and
a rough and turbulent sea, made the passage very
unpleasant.

Our utmost endeavours were used to get round Siwo
Misaki, but it seemed almost hopeless attempting to
steam against the strong wind and heavy seas. Even-
tually it was decided to run into the well-sheltered
harbour of Oosima. The weather, as soon as we were
shelteied under the land, brightened up ; and the
entrance was not devoid of beauty, as island after
island came into view. We passed a peculiar cluster
of rocks forming a portion of the harbour at the
south-east entrance of the Kii Channel, the Japanese
name of which is Ishi Bashi, or Stone Bridge. Two
pretty little fishing villages (Hasingui and Kusimota)
are here situated, lying at the foot of a range of
hills.

During the night the weather moderated, and
early the next day we left the anchorage, steamed
round the extreme south point of Nipon (Siwo
Misaki), and entered the Kii Channel. It was a
clear and beautiful morning, but a mist lay along
the horizon, which, however, as the day advanced,
cleared, and at length the high land of the coast was

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296

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

in sight. All were eagerly watching the beautiful
scenery which from time to time presented itself,
until at length we anchored off Kobe, in the Bay of
Osaka. On either side were towering peaks covered
with vegetation to their very summits, and shady
groves, among which appeared temples, and pretty
cottages, not altogether unlike those seen in Switzer-
land ; while stretching along the bund before us is
the foreign concession, witli its hotels, clubs, and
consular i^esidences, its regular terraces and streets
of prim stucco-fronted houses and villas, forming
as great a contrast as possible to the surrounding
scene.

It was high holiday during a portiu^^ of our stay
here; everybody en fete. Opportunities were there-
fore presented to us of seeing some of the religious
ceremonies and processions for which Japan is so
famous. The streets were gaily decorated with flags
and festoons of brightly coloured lanterns ; little
chapels, gilded and varnislied, dedicated to local
deities, and quaintly carved cars filled with musicians,
whose drums and gongs sounded in harsh and dis-
cordant clashes, were carried by coolies on bamboo
poles ; vehicles drawn by gii'ls and boys, gaily
dressed, in which were local celebrities, priests and
others ; ladies and courtesans followed in palanquins,
amid.st a host of banners. These processions were
kept up for several days, and the festivities con-
tinued until late in the evening, when the city was

KOBE.

297

illuminated with lanterns. Occasionally there was a
halt made in front of the house of some magnate,
when addresses were given, followed by theatrical
representations and dancing.

The Japanese hold tliat one of the best means
to propitiate the divinities is to be happy, and not
seek to annoy them with incessant prayers and
supplications, feeling assured that their gods take
pleasure in seeing every one enjoying innocent
recreation.

I was, of course, very eager to learn all I could
about the country and people, but there was so much
of interest, and such a short time to inspect it, that
I was frequently almost in despair. These people
liave for centuries kept aloof from other nations, and
retained their manners, customs, and ideas unchanged;
these seemed so peculiar to us that i was with some
anticipations of pleasure I made one of a party to
visit the most important resident of this port, Mou-
rn agami, who is brother to the great high -priest of
Honganji Kyota. Arriving in due course at his
residence, w^hich was situated on the side of a hill,
we entered the vestibule, where were several at-
tendants, who saluted us in their national style,
which was by passing their hands down the knee
and leg, at the same time giving a strong inhalation,
indicative of pleasure. Our arrival was now an-
nounced to Moumagami, who came forward and
welcomed us.

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298

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Close at hand a new temple had been reared, and
was now to be dedicated to the service of Buddha,
in whose honour theatricals and dances were onward.
The entertainments presented were so peculiar, and
so beautiful were the dresses and decorations worn
by those taking part in it, that we could not fail to
enjoy the spectacle thoroughly.

The ladies of the household, Noriko and Satshiko,
two of our host's sisters, and other friends were
present, to -v^ iiom the strangers were introduced.

They were very pretty women. One in particular
I may mention, whose jet black hair, ornamented with
amber and tortoiseshell combs, was bound up into
thick masses at the back of the head with flowers
and ribbons, and further decorated with a number
of gold and silver arrows, and similar ornaments.
Her c:;stume was very beautiful— pale grey crape,
embroidered with gold and silver, and a profusion ot
flowers. It was lined with a bright blue silk quilting,
which formed a train on the ground. Only a part,
however, was visible, as the silken belt round the
waist allowed it to open only very slightly. Over
this she wore a broad sash of dark colour, embroidered
in gold, and tied in a very large knot behind. This
was the obi. The sleeves were long, and reached
nearly to the ground. All the colours of the dresses
worn by the company harmonised so beautifully that,
although there was a most brilliant collection of tints,
the aspect was most pleasing. The Japanese in-

VISIT TO MOUMAOAMI.

29»

variably show exquisite taste in the arrangement of
colours.

Tea, sweets, and saki were served in diminutive
china cups, and before we left, attendants brought
in, and placed before each, gold and lacquer
bowls with chopsticks. Chicken and vegetables,
duck and sweet jelly, fish and seaweed, were passed
round.

At first we found some difficulty in using the
chopsticks, which amused our fair friends very much ;
nor could we help laughing ourselves at our awkward
attempts. Then pipes and tobacco were in requi-
sition, the ladies joining ; and although their pipes
are small, and the tobacco used is of a delicate de-
scription, I should infer from what I saw that they
are great smokers.

It was near sunset as we took our leave, the ladies
bowing low and speaking a few words in their
native language, which we understood to be all sorts
of good wishes for our future success, the host ac-^
companying us to the porch, bidding us farewell.

We had spent a most agreeable and entertaining
day, the kindness, hospitality, and general good
temper of our host and hostess leaving a very
pleasant impression.

The view from this point was very fine, embracing
the far-off hills of the opposite shore, the island of
Awadji, at the entrance of the inland sea, the river
to Osaka, and an ever moving mass of wliite sails of

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III

300 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

junks and boats; while stretching out below us lay
the riclily cultivated plain, dotted with white roofs,
amongst the bright colours of the cornfields and the
sober olive of the surrounding foliage.

During our stay we visited Osaka, which is about
30 miles from Hiogo. There is a railway between the
two, and trains run frequently during the day. The
trip is most enjoyable. Nearly the whole way lay
along slopes and through villages, valleys inter-
vening between the sea and mountain ranges. An
hour's run and Osaka is reached. This is one of the
five imperial cities, and is most pleasantly situated
in a fruitful plain near a navigable river, which is
spanned by upwards of a hundred bridges, many of
extraordinary beauty of design.

The streets are, as in all Japanese towns, very
narrow ; still they are regular, and cut each other at
right angles. The internal arrangements of the shops
are simple and uniform, though somewhat modified
according to the business of the occupants; still
there is a great sameness in every town.

The buildings are not of a very imposing character,
with the exception of the temples, many of which are
splendid specimens of art, rich in gold and lacquer
work ; particularly the one at Tonagee, with its grand
and stately pagoda, from the top of which a fine
view is obtained all over the city.

A week was spent at Kobe, and on the 25th May
we left for a cruise through the inland sea.

cter,
are
iier
and
fine

CRUISE IN THE INLAND SEA.

301

It seems imposaible to do justice to the beauty of
the scenery here; talented writers have attempted
the description, but the best have failed, and to my
mind fall fai' short of the beautiful reality. Assuredly
I cannot paint its loveliness adequately by any words
of mine.

Amidst this beautiful scenery we remained for a
week, occasionally dredging, but not with much
success. At the close of each day we anchored off
some pretty little village, and then made our way on
again early in the morning, until reaching Matsu-
hama, which is about halfway through, when our
course was altered so as to return to Hiogo. There
appears to be an extensive traffic, from the vast number
of junks and coasting-steamers daily met with, and
swarms of fishing-boats seem to abound everywliere,
making quite a lively scene. All this, with the
marvellous richness and fertility of the innumeraljle
islands, leaves nothing to be desired. On the 2nth
we reached Hiogo, and once more anchored in Osaka
Bay.

On the morning of June 2 we left Osaka Bay for
Yokohama, where we arrived and anchored on the
5th. Swung ship for magnetic and azimuth cor-
rections; coaled, and filled up with stores and pro-
visions for a long voyage. Before finally leaving
Yokohama, a large number of the European residents,
together with many of the members of the imperial
government from Tokio, Sir Harry Parkes (British

liti

tit !'

1. 1

302

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CIIALLENOETl.

MiniHter) and Lady Parkes, many of the American,
PVencli, and Japanese naval officers, accepted invita-
tions to take a trip for a few miles in the Bay of
Yedo, for the purpose of witnessing the operations
of sounding, dredging, and trawling for specimens of
marine zoology.

The weather at first was most unfavourable (wind
and heavy rain). However, it eventually cleared,
and a large party of ladies were amongst the number
of visitors. About noon we steamed out from the
anchorage, and when an ofting of some four or five
miles had been gained, preparations were made for the
first operation, which was sounding. The depth was
found to be 120 fathoms. The trawl was lowered.
The processes were watched with seemingly great
interest by the guests on board, and after a short
interval had elapsed, the trawl was drawn up by
the deck engine. The anxious crowd gathered on
the bridge, and as fathom after fathom of the line
came in, the eager throng held their breath in
expectation of what was coming. They were, how-
ever, not kept long in suspense. First appeared the
shackle, then the trawl itself, with a few specimens
of life from the bottom, including fish of various
kinds, shells, stones, and mud. Water-bottles were
lowered, and specimens obtained from various
depths. The mode of taking serial temperatures
was illustrated.

After this lively scene, in which the different

DREDGING PICNIC IN YEDO BAY.

303

opinions of the learned in such matters were often
amusingly expressed to their lady friends, it was
time to adjourn for lunch, wliich afterwards finished
up with a dance ; so on the whole we had a most
enjoyable time. It was after five before the vessel
returned to her anchorage.

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WOMEN ON HORSEBACK, UONOLULU, SANDWICH IPLAND8.

CHAPTER XiV.

Japan to thb Sandwich Islands.

Leave Yokohama — Soundings of the U.S. ship Tuscarora— Our course —
Passing the meridian of 180° — Two Sundays in one week— Sand-
wich Islands in sight — Anchor in Ilonohdu Harbour — The city —
Its streets — Businosh habits — American influence — The king —
Hawaiian Government-— Parli;inient— Taxation — The Nuanu valley
— Pretty scenes — Villa and other residences — The Pali — Hor.so-
manship — V'-sit to the fish-market— The natives — Public build-
ings — Parliament House — Hawaiian liotel — The churches —
Queen's Hospital— Court House— Tolani Palace — Levee at the
palace— King Kalakua and suite visit tlui ('h<illeu;/ir — Leave the
Island of Oahu — Squally passage to Hawaii— Arrive and anchor
in Hilo Bay— Volcanoes of Manna Kea and Rbiuna Loa — Tlio
charming scenery— Th(> Kaiiibow Falls— Bathing-j)la(!es — Visit to
the crater of Kilauea— Scenes on the road — The Halfway Houso
—-Reach the crater— The first sight of the great cauldron— -Tho
Volcano Hotel—Manna Loa — Return to Hilo.

Jr\K 10th. — This morning terminated our Htay in
Jfipanese waterK. At noon all was ready, and soon

SOUNDINGS OF THE TUSCABOBA.

305

•nrse —
Sand-
city —
ing—
valley
iHorsc-
Imiia-

!lU'S —

jit the

|vo tho

iiichor

TIjo

lisit to

lllouso

-Tho

ly in

IsooiJ

after we were steaming out from the anchorage,
tlie weather bright and clear, and everything pro-
mising a pleasant and speedy run to the Sandwich
Islands.

Last year (1874) the United States Government
despatched the steam- vessel Tuscarora on a deep-sea
sounding cruise between San Francisco, the Sand-
wich Islands, and the coast of Japan, with instruc-
tions on their return route to complete a line of
soundings from Yokohama, extending in a great
circle to the north, passing along the islands of tlie
Aleutian group, and so towards Puget Sound, with
a view of finding a practicable cable route across.

Tlie course therefore selected by us was one inter-
mediate between these two (through the parallel
of 35° north latitude) until reaching 155° west
longitude.

The voyage at first promised to be plcasaiit and
speedy, but ere many days had passed, we found
that we were to be delayed (except in one or two
cases) by light and contrary winds; still, the fine
weather was eminently favourable for Hounding
and trawling; while, on the other hand, the want
of a breeze made the voyage long and monotonous.
No such extraordinary depths were found on tiie
course selected by us as those reported by the Ameri-
can expedition, their (leepest being 4(555 fathoms,
whiK' ours was 3000 fathoms; the average being
under 3000, with a bottom of red clay and brf)wn

i ' )

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l^'/^•^

306

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CIIALLENGEB.

mud. Very little of interest occurred from day to
day, and the results of the trawling and additions
to the natural history collection were very scanty.

The principal occurrence of the voyage that
made an impression was the passage of the meridian
of 180°, which took place at noon on ihe 3rd July;
and we now entered on west longitude. Accord-
ingly, a day had to be "dropped" out of our reckon-
ing, and Sunday, 4th July, was continued for two
days, so as to prevent our returning to England witli
our log and journal one day ahead of the calendar.
It requires but little explanation as to the neces-
sity of this alteration. However, while on this topic,
I may refer to the dismay of the early CathoHc
navigators when they found that they had been
keeping irregular fast-days. Thus, when Magalhaens
made his first voyage round the world (September
1519 to July 1522), he found, on his return, that he
was a day behind his countrymen, having sailed from
east to west round Cape Horn. The idea of having
lost a day of their lives puzzled them very much,
but what disquieted the minds of these pious navi-
gators still more was the fact that they had been
observing their saints' days erroneously, and had
actually eaten meat when they ought to have fasted.

The proof of the sphericity of the earth is thus
clearly shown, and the improvements in navigation
have pointed out that a day must necessarily bo
lost in a course steered from east to west ; while, on

day to
Iditions

:anty.
,ge that
[iieridiau

rd July ;
Accord-
i- reckoii-
\ for two
land with
calendar.
;he neces-
this topic,
r Catholic
had been
agalhaens
eptemher
n, that he
ailed from
of having
lerv much,
)iou8 navi-
had been
, and had
have fasted,
irth is thus
navigation
icBsarily he
; while, on

SANDWICH ISLANDS IN SIGHT.

807

the other hand, a day is gained by sailing from west
to east. In short, the mode of reckoning time
amongst the South Sea Islands depends solely upon
whether they have been approached in the first
instance from the west or the east by the navigator
who introduces amongst them the Christian calendar.

On the 22nd July, in lat. 29° 1' north, long. 154°
43' west, we reached the commencement of the north-
east trades. The weather was very fine. The deep
blue sky above, and the calm beauty of the long,
full moonlight nights exercised a beneficial influence
on all hands, and now day after day the sea-birds
— those constant attendants — gradually began to
cease flitting round the ship as we approached the
Equator.

July 27th, — This morning land was reported, and
although at first some twenty miles distant, yet in
the clear atmosphere could be seen a group of grey,
barren peaks, rising verdureless out of the quiet,
lonely sea. Everybody was soon on deck to have
a look at the land after the 4500 miles of watery
solitude, and the sight was indeed a welcome one.

As we neared it, lofty peaks, brown and red, sun-
scorched and wind-bleached, showing here and there
traces of their fiery origin, were in view. Nearer
yet, and the detail of the land began to make itself
manifest : first the line of beacli, marked by a long
line of surf, and then the waving rocoa-nut trees,
with the imposing promontory of Diamond Head

X 2

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111

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308

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENOEB.

terminating the wavy line of palms; then the
Punchbowl Hill, a very perfect extinct crater, bright
and brilliant in the sunshine. By noon we were
close to the coral reef where lay at anchor the U.S.
flag-ship Pensacola, rolling about in the long swell.
After waiting a short time, the pilot came alongside,
and we steamed into the harbour. The surf ran
high as we passed through the narrow channel and
entered the quiet and placid haven of rest, where we
anchored very near the shore. We were speedily
surrounded with boats and canoes, with enterprising
tradesmen for orders, or natives for the washing.

All along the shore were the neat wood and grass
houses and huts of the natives, and away in either
direction was the city of Honolulu, hidden behind
palms, bread-fruit, bananas, and other trees, with
the public buildings and church spires just showing
above all.

The city is built on a narrow strip of land very
little above the level of the sea, and at the foot of a
number of volcanic hills, which rise almost perpen-
dicularly behind, clad in refreshing green, and cleft
by deep, cool, chasm-Hke valleys. This island (Oahu),
though neither the largest nor the most fertile of the
group, was originally selected, from its geographical
positior , as the seat of the Hawaiian Government.

It is now ninety-seven years ago that these islands
were first discovered by Captain Cook, and as late as
1830 the city of Honolulu consisted of

'ly

grass

HONOLULU.

809

huts, &c. At tlie present time, although by no means
an imposing city, it gives house and home to some
15,000 inhabitants, and is spread over a sandy plain
extending from east to west, with wide streets con-
taining hotels and business houses, giving the place
a very different appearance to what might have been
expected in a Polynesian town.

The streets and avenues are shaded with palms,
bread-fruit, and other pleasant trees. The retail
stores are owned principally by Americans and Chi-
nese, and a very fair amount of business appears to
be done. There are ice manufactories, foundries, and
factories; a steam laundry employing about thirty
hands, and capable of turning out forty to fitty
thousand pieces in a week, belonging to Mr. W. M.
Wallace, who, for perseverance, industry, and
tliorough business habits, I should say was un-
equalled in the island. There are half a dozen news-
papers published, two of which are monthly, and
four weekly. There are free libraries and reading-
rooms, fire-engine companies, Masonic, Odd Fellows',
and Good Templars' lodges, theatres, and other
amusements, so as to keep pace with the times.

The stamp of social life is uimiistakably American.
The currency, the hotels, and private companies are
;i!l types of the Great Republic. The principal
business done has hitherto been with America, the
great majority of Hawaiian citizens and public men
have been Americans, the government and constitu-

810

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

tion have been largely framed by the aid of American
influence, and though the independence of the Ha-
waiian Government is secured at present by a tri-
partite treaty between England, America, and France,
the destiny of the Sandwich Islands will probably
be what its geographical position would indicate —
annexation to the United States.

His Hawaiian Majesty Kalakua is a monarchical
ruler, with a paraphernalia of sovereignty as im-
posing in design, if not in execution, as that of Great
Britain itself. Each of the eight islands that are
inhabited is governed by a viceroy, under the king.
Then there are privy councillors, ministers of state,
and other high functionaries, the Legislative As-
sembly consisting of forty-five members, thirty of
whom are elected by the people and fifteen appointed
by the king, who hold their seats for life. In addition
to all this there are a host of dignitaries with mys-
terious names and functions taken most faithfully
from the models of European courts. The Hawaiian
ministry does not hold office at the will of a majority
of Parliament, as with us, but as long as the king
pleaseo, irrespective of what Parliament may think.
The public money is supposed not to be expended
even by the king without a vote of the Assembly.
The Hawaiians formerly possessed two Legislative
Houses, but now the nobles and representatives sit
and vote together. The experiment, however, does
not, it is said, work quite satisfactorily, and there is

THE KING.

311

a party agitating for the reconstruction of the
Council of Fifteen. There are two qualifications
necessary to enable a man to vote for a member
of Parliament here — he must be able to read and
write, and have an income of 76 dollars a year.

The kings of Hawaii do not succeed to the throne
exactly as sovereigns do in England, but are ap-
pointed by the nomination of the preceding sovereign
or by the vote of the Legislative Assembly. The
late King Lunalilo died in February 1874, without
naming his successor. There were two candidates
brought forward for the vacant throne. One was the
Queen-Dowager Emma (widow of Kamehameha IV.),
the other was a high chief named David Kalakua.
David was elected by thirty-nine votes, Emma re-
ceiving only six. The result was a rif nn the part
of the supporters of the defeated candidate, which
was soon, however, quelled, the English and Ameri-
can war-ships in port sending to the rescue a number
of blue-jackets and marines. The rioters were after-
wards imprisoned and peace restored, and now all
works harmoniously.

The revenue of the Hawaiian kingdom is about
500,000 dollars a year, and is derived principally
from taxation, from custom duties, and from the sale
of government land. The local tax amongst the
people is five dollars a year — two dollars for roads, &c.,
two for education, and one as a poll-tax.

The entire revenue of the king is at the rate of

*.)

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1 s

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i '\i

312

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

50,000 dollars per annum, and each of the principal
ministers of state receives 5000 dollars.

Soon after anchoring, opportunities were afforded
for a run on shore, and a great crowd was assembled
on the landing to give us a hearty welcome. Men
and women of a rich brown colour, with long, wavy,
black hair and Urge brown lustrous eyes, all seem-
ing happy, talking, laughing, and smiling; their
greetings, "Aloha!" assailed us wherever we went,
floating on the breeze sweet as the sound of distant
bells. As I passed through the midst of this throng-
ing crowd, every step seemed to reveal something new,
and i/O recall recollections of my previous visit here,
some eighteen years ago.

I cannot say that there is any great beauty in the
location of the town, or much taste displayed in its
plan ; but the streets and dusty roads may soon be ex-
changed for one of the most agreeable and delightful
climates possible, by a short ride to the Pali, through
the Nuanu valley, which is formed by a break in the
central volcanic ridge of the island.

The entrance to the valley, for some considerable
distance on either side, has a number of charming
residences of the wealthy settlers, forming, during
the summer months, pleasing retreats from the heat
of the city. It would be difficult to adequately
describe the scenery, or the architecture of the villas,
so beautifully are they festooned with flowering
plants and evergreens; shady lawns, too, stretch

rou^h

jrable

[niiiig

|iiring

heat

[ately

[illas,

jring

retch

THE PALL

813

out in front with every variety of cliarming vege-
tation, and trees sending their pleasing shadows
over all. Thus it is for some miles, until reacliing
the cemetery, cosily sitt ted in a way-side hollow ;
and almost opposite is I'le royal mausoleum, where
the remains of the Kamehamehas lie entombed. The
road narrows somewhat now, and the green taro
patches and charming avenues afford a most agreeable
relief to the eye, enhancing the beauty of the views
from the various colours of the foliage, produced evi-
dently by the fertilising showers from the clouds,
wdiich ai occasionally seen lowering on the mountain
peaktoj where they are, as it were, held in check
and condensed, producing numerous small waterfalls,
le« T)ing from rock to rock on all sides, and being
again distributed by the natives for irrigating their
taro patches, and for giving fertility and luxuriance
to the plains below.

The valley takes numberlevsa eccentric windings,
and the peculiarity of the scenery is, that the hills,
which rise to several thousand feet, are precipitous
ridges, broken up into all sorts of fantastic shapes,
which suddenly terminate in deep precipices known
as the Pali.

The beauty of the scene from here is unsurpassed
in the island : stretching away seawaid are the coral
reefs, with the white wavy line of endless surf break-
ing restlessly over them ; while in the valley below
are charming glimpses of vegetation ; clusters of

V: 1

•11 ; '

^ '4

314

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

palms and sugar-cane, interspersed with native huts,
( ach surrounded with its httle plantation of bananas
and other fruit, suggesting the boundless liberality
of nature.

During our stay it was a daily treat to stroll along
the shady streets, and out through the pleasant
roads, particularly on Saturdays, which seemed a sort
of gala day, when the roads were usually thronged
with natives of both sexes on horseback, riding
up and down at full gallop, and seeming perfectly
at home in the saddle — the women even more so than
the men : they sit astride barefooted, with their
bright-coloured riding-dresses, like banners, stream-
ing behind them ; all apparently happy and reck-
less : their bright eyes flashing, their long black
hair, encircled with garlands and wreaths of flowers
— making a gay and graceful spectacle. The men
looked hardly less attractive, for they had wreaths
of bright flowers round ,their hats, and garlands
around their throats.

Sometimes a crowd of these careless riders came
galloping in from the plains, full of fun and laughter,
accompanied by a lot of blue-jackets on leave from
the Challenger, rushing on, helter-skelter, upsetting
everything and everybody they came in contact
with ; bestriding their horses as they would a topsail-
yard in a breeze ; hanging on to manes and saddles,
and evidently enjoying themselves to their heart's
content.

VISIT TO THE FISH-MARKET.

315

lilts,
\na8
ility

long

isant

, sort

ngecl

idiiig

■ectly
than

their

ream-

reck-

black
wers
men
eaths
lands

Icame
rhter,

from
jtting
mtact
[psail-

Idles,
leart's

One of the sights of Honolulu is the fish-market,
and there we were escorted one Saturday afternoon.
Although only a tumble-down sort of a place, with a
number of rickety stalls, yet these were in many
cases covered with numberless varieties of blue, red,
and yellow fish, spotted and banded, and striped in
the most striking manner. Of shell-fish also there
was abundance, crayfish, lobsters, crabs, and many
strange orange- and rose-coloured medusge, and here
and there little heaps of various qualities of sea-weed,
of which the natives are particularly fond.

Here, strolling about making purchases, we saw a
laughing, joking crowd of men and women ; the latter
clad in a single bright-coloured or white garment,
falling free and in unconfined folds from the shoulder
to the feet, while all wore wreaths of gorgeous
flowers round their jaunty hats. The men, with their
cheerful smiling faces and friendly greetings, added
greatly to the animation of the scene. These people
are, on the whole, much better-looking than those
met with farther south. The nose is less flat, the
lips are less prominent ; the colour is a nearer
approach to white, and the face is altogether more
indicative of intelligence and good-nature, and they
take more kindly to the forms of European civilisa-
tion.

Of public buildings, the new Legislative Assembly
Chambers rank first; they form an extensive pile of
buildings of the must modern style, built of concrete,

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316

CRUISE OF TIM.S. CTlALLENGEn.

f'roni plans i)re[)ared by a Sydney arcliitect, at a coKt
of $120,000. I had an opf)ortunity of going through
the spacious halls of this massive structure ; they are
elaborately furnished, and each appropriated to some
department of law and justice. The Council Chambers
are only required for a short session once in two
years, for voting the required supplies.

In the absence of other outlets for the public funds,
the Government, at the instigation of a popular
member of the Ministry, voted a large sum of money
for building an hotel for the attraction and con-
venience of visitors. Plans were completed, and the
building was finished in 1874. It consists of a large
concrete, two-storied house, well situated, with veran-
dahs decorated and festooned with flowering traileis,
covering up all that might be unsightly with jessa-
mine and clematis, and bright and pleasing flowers.
It stands on a trim-kept lawn, planted with exotic
trees, lending shade and beauty to the whole.
Military bands occasionally play, and the large
number of visitors give quite a busy and imposing
aspect to this portion of the city.

The churches claim our attention, and Sunday
proved a most pleasant day. Church-bells rang, and
the streets and roads were filled by the people in
their holiday attire.

Whatever may be the religious requirements of
other islands of the Pacific, the wants of the Ha-
waiians are well supplied. At least three of the

TfFE cnuncHES.

317

i::reat denominations work side by side. The Roman
Oatholics, who were introduced to the islands by the
aid of a French man-of-war, have had a large church,
a local habitation, and a name, since 1817, and now
number a very large proportion of converts amongst
the population of the islands.

The Church of England has had a Bishop, if not
a very large ecclesiastical interest, here since 1802.
The cut-stone cathedral, brought all the way from
England by Bishop Staley, is still the work of the
future. The foundations were laid some years ago
by the late king, but the superstructure lies packed
in cases within the church inclosure. The funds
being exhausted, the chance of erection is somewhat
remote. The services aro at present carried on in a
small temporary building, on which some 20,000/.
has been expended, and in this Bishop Willis (l)r.
Staley 'b successor) carries out a daily High Church
ceremonial, which, from the scanty number of wor-
shippers, does not appear to be very attractive.

The "Wesleyan Methodists have a church, but I
learnt that this body has not succeeded in making
any great head-way in the islands.

It is due to the early missionary enterprise^ —
carried on principally by the American Board of
Mission (embracing the operations of the Presby-
terians and Independents) — that any moral change
has been produced amongst these people.

There are two native churches ; one of which is a

'I ]

(♦f

318

CRUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

liirn^e Ktructure, built of coral stone, fitted up with
modern pews and carpeted floors : it boasts of a
trained choir and an organ of superior construc-
tion, with a Sunday school bui]<ling at one end, and
a church sociable, after the American fashion,
underneath.

The Queen's Hospital, the Court House, and the
lolani Palace almost exhaust the bst of public build-
ings. The Palace is only a small frame building,
standing in solitary grandeur in an inclosure of al)out
an acre in extent ; but plana are being prepared for
a larger structure, and probably we may soon hear
of its commoucemeiit.

A Levee was held at the Palace, at which the
officers of the Challemjer and others attended, and
were duly presented to his Majesty in the orthodox
i'ashion by the British Minister (Major J. H. Wode-
house) ; and before leaving the harbour, the King
made a return visit on board. His Majesty embarked
from the jetty-stairs in the Challengers barge ; he
was dressed in ])lain morning suit, with a single
decoration (the star of the order of Kamehameha).
His suite, consisting of Governors, Ministers, and
Court dignitaries in gay uniform, with plumes,
epaulettes, and gold lace, followed in other boat^
after him.

As soon as the king arrived on board, the royal
standard Wtis loosed at the main, ship's com[)any
manned yards, the guard presented arms, and the

the
and
lodox
ode-
King
irked
lie
inpjle
elia).
and
[imes,
Iboats

iroyal

|pany

the

LEAVK OAIW.

319

band struck up tlie Ilawiiiiun national anthem. The
party remained some time, seeinj^ all the wonders,
and entering fully into the details of our scientific
doings. After lunch, &c., they again returned to the
shore; and in the evening the King gave a dinner
at the Hawaiian Hotel, there not being sufficient
accommodation at the Palace,,

During our brief stjiy (for fifteen days was all the
time allotted here) \ was most favourably impressed,
not onlv with the l)eauty of tlie sctMicrv, but with
tli(3 hospitality of the residents. Amid many happy
remembrances of other scenes, the thoughts of these
will remain a pleasant memory of my visit to the
Sandwich Islands.

Aw/. Wtfi. — This morning all was ready, and with
much regret we left the hospitable shores of Oahu, and
steamed out througb the passage of the coral re(»fs.

Some hours were afterwards spent in swinging
ship, both for azimuth and magnetic corre(!tif)ns.
Finally we proceeded (jii our way foi- Ililo, steaming
on over the golden tropical sea, and before sunset
these l)eautiful islands biid sunk below Jie horizon.
A strong head-wind unfortunately sprang u|), and
very soon we were lurching and tumbling about in
the open channel separating Oaliu from Ibiwaii.

After three days of this s(pially, l>oislerons weatlier,
land was again in sight; and as wo iKsared it, we
could see a pretty coast-line of grey eiilY, many
hundred feet in height, dr:i[)ed witli green, showing

320

CRUT8E OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB,

out here and there masses of black volcanic rock.
Into cracks and caverns the heavy waves surged,
sending the spray high up amongst the ferns and
trailers.

On the summits of these cliffs were dense forests of
the ohia, koa, ieie, mamane, mamaki, alii, and many
other trees, crowded together and sheltering an
almost endless variety of ferns and shrubs, encircling
Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, two vast volcanic moun-
tains, whose snow-capped peaks rise to nearly 14,000
feet.

We pass on, catching glimpses of native churches,
villages, and sugar-plantations, their bright green
vegetation looking most charming.

Au(ji. I4t/i. — Later in the day, we arrived and
anchored in Byron's or Hilo Bay, a pretty crescont-
sluiped sheet of water, fringed all round the shore
with cocoa-palms and other tropical foliage.

Hilo looks very pretty from the anchorage; its
bay, said to be one of the most beautiful in the
Pacific, is a semicircle of about two miles in extent;
tiie native houses are half hidden by tall trees that
spread their foliage about in all directions; and near
the landing-place some white frame-houses and three
church-spires are prominently seen.

Soon after our arrival I landed (not for the first
time, for I was here in 1S58) at a small pier run out
through the surf for the convenience of passengers
landing from the coasting steamer Kilnuea.

ftp)

ni. i.

niLO.

321

its
the

t;eiit ;

tbat

I near

lliree

first
|i out

gcr&

Roads branch off in several directions ; that alonj]^
the beach contains a few frame-houses, in wliich
apparently all the business of the island is done.
Another road passes the three cliurcht's, the most
prominent of which is the Roman Cathoh'c, with its
two towers. A native church is next; and tiien a
small one for the foreign residents.

The Court House, a large wooden building, with
verandahs, surrounded by beautiful exotic trees, is
the most imposing building on the island. Go where
one will, in either direction, are great varieties of
houses; for the foreigners have all seemingly
carried out their own individual tastes in their dwell-
ings, and the results are very pleasing and agreeable,
although for ])ictures(pieness they must yield the
palm to the native houses, which, whether built of
wood or grass, plain or plaited, whether of one or
two stories, seemed so much more in harmony with
their surroundings.

In nearly every inst^ance these dwellings have a
cool and prepossessing appe.aiance, with their deep-
thatched roofs and verandahs, fantastically latticed
and screened with gorgeous traih^rs of jessamine,
clematis, and the gorgeous passion-flower, Passin"*
along here leads one to the Anuenue, or Rainbow
Falls. The track is a scramble among rocks and
holes concealed by grass and ferns, with several
small streams to cross. Th(» fall itself is four or five
miles off, but the sight is well worth all the trouble

Si Mi

822

CIIUISE OF n.M.S. CHALLENGER.

taken to -arh ii ; it is a brofvi .•rronm of wAter
rushing on Uora the l.igh land, forming on its way
numerous djioioiifc and cool batliing-})lace8, umJl
reaching a ])recipice of al)Out 100 feet; it fallb
into a basin with a deep cavern behind, surrounded
by beautiful ferns and a jungle of tropical shrubs
of great variety. To this spot many made their daily
visits, not only loi the pleasure of bathing, but
to enjoy the delightful scenery in every direction.
I'lic principfil object of our visit to Hilo was that
op))ortunities might be afforded to those who desired
to visit the celebiated Crater of Kilauea. A day or
two after our arrival horses and guides were provide<l,
and a large party started to do the thirty miles ot
rough road leauiug to the shrine of " Pele," the home
of the dreaded goddess of volcanoes. The weather
was fine, and all started from Hilo in th«.' best of
spirits, well-mounted on sure-footed horses, and in
this way for some miles ])roceeded in single file along
narrow roads of hard lava rock, al)out a couple of
feet wide, occasionally passing througli forests of
true tiopical jungle, where Natm*e seemed to riot in
the production of strange and curious forms; wbere
trees have giown and fallen, and where ihey lie
a new vegetation has sprung uj) over them, alto-
gether obliterating any signs of decay.

Thus all went on for miles; in fact, the whole
track is a j»erpetual upward scramble, rough and
i-ugged in the extreme ; for though the ascent is

VISIT TO THE CRATER OF KILAUEA.

323

Atev
wav

•

am 11
tallb
nded
irvibs
dailv

, l)Ut

ictiou.
j that

icHirud
lay or
)vi(le>l,
liles oi'
e home
■ather
)cst of
iiid in
along
uplo of
eats of
riot in
where
ley lie
I, alto-
whole
ij-li and
,CL-nt ia

gradual, so tlin* it i« o>>) v Ly 'Jxe increasing coldness
of tlje p.tirosphere thut the eiovailon is detected, it
is really a rise of 4000 fec^ iu *he thirty miles. The
haif-way house (just a roii h ^r^vt^s native slianty) was
reached in due course, u d l.are a short stay was
made for rest -and refreshment, after which we
started on again, all being anxious to reach the
crater heibre night set in. Coutimiing our journey,
the country altering but little in appearance, except
that, perhaps, the trees appeared of more sombre
aspect, all at once, on emeiging from a dense forest,
a glare, brighter and redder than from any furnace,
suddenly brightened up the wliole sky. Tlie
heavens became brilliant, and when the Volcano
House (a small hotel) was reached, clouds of red
vapcmr, mixed with flame, wwe curling ceastlesiiy
out of a large invisible pit \;f darkness, and Kiiauea
was in all its fiery glory ; we had reached the crater
of the hirgest volc:iT;o in th world.

We took up our q? in'mn at the Volcano ITotel, a
long building, oo" * L'uoied of grass and bamlxx),
which all ili »ught "^'^ry c«»mfo:uible after tiie long
and wearying journey. Here a good diimer was
ordere(4, and during its j)r<!|)a ration it was cluHnful to
sit round the great w«><xJ fire, for the night was
somewhat cool at this aliitiide.

j' fter rest and a r«freHliiMg dinn<'r all set olT
to see the sightw ; mA far to go at first, for the
mighty crater is situated only a .-hort distance from

Y 2

III fi

It,!

324

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENQEB.

I m\

^1 i

our house. The abyss, which is at a height of
4000 feet, on the side of Maima Loa, has the appear-
ance of a large pit, which is estimated to be nine
miles in circumference. The guides informed us
that there was nothing to fear; the edge of the
crater was approachable with safety, except during
an eruption. After an hour of very difficult climbing
and scrambling, the lowest level of the crater was
reached. My highest expectations were more than
realised, and I can hardly find words suitable to
describe my sensations after seeing such a spectacle.
All was confusion and commotion; for the lava, like
red-hot metal, broke about with a surging noise on
the rough craggy cliff's, cooling as it fell over the
edge, where it hung in festoons. With all this, I
noticed but little smoke or vapour, and what there
was seemed carried away by a light breeze.

Here we remained for a long time, so engrossed by
the gi'and spectacle, that when it was decided to re-
turn, by some means we got on the wrong track, and
were for more than an hour seeking the right road ;
however, eventually we reached the hotel, nearly
tired out.

Kilauea never overflows its vast crater, but appears
to burst a passage for its lava through the mountain-
side when relief is necessary, and then the destruc-
tion is usually fearful. Fortunately this seldom
occurs, for it is many years ago that so great an
eruption took place : then it rent its stomach, and

LEAVE HAWAII.

825

sent a broad river of fire careening down to the sea,
sweeping away forests, huts, plantations, and every-
thing else that lay in its path. The last eruption
occurred in April 1868 ; it was accompanied hy
fearful ear> l^qaakes, and was more destructive to life
and property than any previous one.

After spending the night at the Volcano Hotel, the
next morning we left Kilauea in a heavy rain-storm,
which lasted, with but little intermission, nearly all
the way back. * * * In the evening we straggled
into Hilo, thoroughly tired, still greatly pleased and
delighted with the trip. A few days longer here,
and preparations were made for leaving. On the
19th August all was complete, and we steamed out
clear of the land on a southerly course, and ere night-
fall the coast of Hawaii had faded from our sight.

I ,

5B"

■SRHHHBWW

: :|

NATIVE BAMBOO nOUSR, TAHITI, fiOOlRTY ISLANDS.

CHAPTER XV.

Ranpwioii Ihlands to S«»oikty Tblands.

Leave Hawaii, Sandwich iKlands — l*assa(j;(! t<» tho Socioty Islands —
Sduiidiiijj and trawlinjj;— CrosH titc l^iuator toiirtli tiiiir— Dcatli <»t
Dr. von WillonuMs-Siilnn — liiofjrmpiiical skctcli — IJnrial at Koa —
Taliili in si^ht - Sunndiii^and drrdjiin^' outside; the reefs — Anchor
in PaiKjit*' Harlxtur - Tlic town and country— Streets and natives —
CVin/f<)i(/cr^it hand on shore — Q.u-en I'oniare an<l suite's visit to the
Chii/ltiu/cr — Afternoon dance— l{i(h- to Point Venus — The MriKMu
Roud—CharniiiiK' scenes- - Natives met on th(! road — Tamarind
tree at lV»int Venus— Walerlali Hill fori of Fautana— Froits and
plants — Alongsi(h' Fare Ute— ('oaiin^; from the French <le|.M)t — A
day outside the reefs — Dn dgiu^ - The company on hoard— Swinjj
ship.

TiTE run of 2400 imha to Taliiti (Society iKlaiuls)
waH of a verydnll and monotonous character. Sound-
ings were obtnined on yeventeen occasiouK, and dredg-

DEATH OF DR. VON WILLEMOES-SUIIM.

327

iii^- waw t'rt'tjueiitly carried out. Tlie average (lc|tth
toiirid was 2800 fatliDius, and the bottom composed of
a red or chocolate-brown clay, and occaBionally larfi^e
quantities of black manpincHe. Nothing new or
important was obtained in tiie trawl; so the additions
to the natural history collection were somewhat
small.

It is with great regret that I have to record the
death, on the I3th Sejitcmher, of Dr. von Willimocs-
Snhm,* a native of Gcrmauy, one of the naturah'sts
attacliud to the expedition. He had, during the time
he had l)een associated with tlie scientific department,
entered most fully into all its details, and mastered
some of its most difHcult subjects, and his loss, there-
fore, was much felt. T\w next day he was buried
with naval honours — his body connuitted to the deep
l»hie tide. "One sudden plunge, and all was o'er."
This was in lat. 11° 15' south, long. 150"^ :U)' west,

* Th«i following ])iogmpliirnl sketch apixand in 'Nature:' —
"Dr. voii WillinnK's-Siilini dietl in'iir 'I'uliiti on the IHtli Se|»t(iut)or,
aivl the exiM (litioii thus lost one of itH most viilued iiieinlHTs.

'■ He wus II native of Sehh-swi^'-Holstein, and studied in the univer-
siticH of (lottinp'n and Honn. Hi; showid at a very early peridil a
stronj; taste for natural seience, and shortly after tli(» eoneliision of his
studies lu! wiXK appointed ?rivat-I)(M'ent in /(Hjlotry in tlu; University of
Mniuch. This apjtointnieid lui held at the time of his death, ha\in^;
obtained le'ivo of al)senco to join Ww f'linllriiffrr vx\n\dii\on. He has
pnlilislied lis.my valuahlc! papers, ehietly on the stnuiuro and physio-
lojry of iiivettobrate animals. Ho devoted himself with the ntiiMst
eiirnestnoHH to tlie work of the expedition, and in addition to several
iniiH)rtant communications to the sci( iitilic societies, la; leaves lu'liind
him a tluf; series of drawings and a great amount of uiatcriul, which
mUKt now Ikj worked out l»y other hands."

<i' !

828 OnUlSE OF ILM.S. CHALLENGER,

,n.

Jil

380 milcH from Tahiti. Head winds and calmH huc-
ceeded each other as we passed on through tlie
Tropics.

At length, on the morning of the I8th September,
we came in sight of Tahiti and the outlying island
of Morea, and, as we neared, could be seen very
plainly the singular zigzag outline, precipitous crags
and crater-like depressions, of every shade of blue,
grey, and purple, broken into every conceivable
fantastic shape, with deep, dark, mysterious gorges,
showing almost black by couti'ast with the surround-
ing brightness ; while in the foreground, stretching
away from the base to the shore, is a forest of tropical
trees, with the huts and houses of the town peeping
out between them.

Some hours were spent outside the reefs in sound-
ing and dredging, in a depth of 1525 fathoms, but
not much of interest obtained ; it was near 4 p.m.
l)ofore we entered the lovely harbour of Papeite,
which is surrounded by coral reefs, forming a most
safe and ])leasant haven of rest after the thirty days
at sea. Of all the innumerable islands of the vast
l^^cific, there is none which has a,t various periods
attracted the attention of the civilised world in the
same degree as that in whose harbour we are now at
anchor. At first, it was from the pk-asing description
given by Captain Cook of his stay here; then the
events connected with the mutiny of the Bounty ;
and still later, by occurrences of a j)olitical nature.

PAPEITE.

829

which resulted in the French Government taking
possession and estivbhsliing a Protectorate, and I'roni
that date (1843) up to the present administering tlie
aft'airs, levying tlio inijx)rt and export duties, and
making the Queen an animal allowance of 1000/. per
annum to keep (piiet; in fact, treating it to all intents
as a French colony.

l*apeite lies at the end of a semicircular bay,
seven miles west of Point Venus, the northernmost
part of the island. It is the chief town, the resi-
dence of the Queen and seat of govei'nment ; hut this
is not incompatible with its being of very limited
dimensions, not rising above the grandeur of au
ordinary English village.

The dwellings of the Europeans, constructed for
the most })art of wood, roofed with p;ilm-leaves, extend
all along the edge of the bay, while diverging or
running at right angles or parallel are pi'ctty
roads, which he!}) to make regular streets, around
which, and on every side, rise up bread-fruit, cocoa,
palm, and orange trees, which make up in cheerful-
ness for any deficiency in aspect.

The streets of an evening, the lightetl shops
and stores surrounded by the l»eautiful trees and
gaily dressed girls, the rollicking "blue-jackets"
from the two French war-ships in port and from
the C/inllai</er, the universal good-humour of every
one, made a very novel, pictures(pie, and pleasing
scene.

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WEBSTH, N.Y. MS80

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■M

330

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

My first evening on land I went, with others,
for a stroll through some of the beautiful shady
avenues, and followed the run of the crowd of pe-
destrians (everybody seemed to be out in holiday
attire, for, in addition to gangs of sailors, there
were French soldiers, gendarmes, native girls and
men), all strolling on, in the best of spirits, reck-
less, happy, and good-tempered. At length, on
reaching the Queen's Square, in which the amateur
band of the Challenger was advertised to play, the
strange, motley scene that burst on us was altogether
indescribable.

All shades of beauty were here represented, from
the swarthy Tahitian to the charming European ;
all, however, dressed much alike, in long, loose,
cool-looking drapery, consisting of a sleeved gar-
ment, falling in ample and unconfined folds from
shoulder to feet, of all hues, shades, and colours ;
their luxuriant tresses set off by brilliant flowers and
masses of snowy reva-reva, a gauzy white material,
looking like strips of silver paper (made from the
shoots of young cocoa-iiut trees). French officers,
naval and military, in gay uniforms, with white,
brown, and pretty half-caste ladies; several of the
Challenger s officers, and numerous civilians from far
and near, helped to fill in the large space. The
music was enjoyable in the cool still night; and
it was pleasant to wander about amongst the merry
crowd, speaking freely and sociably to anybody we

lers,
lady
■pe-
iday
;liere
and
reck-
, on
nteiir
-, the
ether

, from

pcan ;

loose,
gar-
froni

lours ;

rs and

iterial,

[n the
cers,
diite,
)f tlie

|»m far

The

and

nerry

ly we

QUEEN POMARES VISIT TO THE CHALLENGEB, 331

pleased without fear of giving offence ; picking our
way amongst the numerous parties that were seated
about, interchanging jokes and compliments, or
squatting down amongst a lot of lively native girls
on their outspread mats, and carrying on a broken
sort of conversation with them — all generally so
good-humoured and merry that they could not fail
to win one's esteem.

All appeared thoroughly to enjoy the music, and
to regret when the programme came to an end with
the *' Marseillaise ;" mats, bundles, and babies were
gathered up, and the crowd, in a short time, dis-
persed to their various homes.

A leve'e was held at the palace, at which the
officers of the Challenger were presented to royalty in
due form. And (on the 1st October) a return visit
was made by the Queen ; on which occasion the op-
portunity was taken to entertain her Majesty at a
ball on board. The quarter-deck was prettily deco-
rated with flags, trophies, and flowers ; and as thei'e
were several princes and princesses present, together
with the French Governor and staff, the party was a
gay and merry one.

During our stay here excursions were planned to
various parts of the island ; amongst them, that made
to Point Venus had a double interest attached to it.
It was on this promontory that Captain Cook first
made the astronomical ol)servations by which ho
determined the correct position of the island, ajid, in

t . 'I

mmm

332

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

1769, from here he, with a scientific party, observed
the transit of Yenus.

The ride thither lay through delicious groves of
cocoa palm and bread-fruit trees, mingled here and
there with citron, orange, bananas, and guavas. The
tree-like oleander and beautiful red-flowered hibiscus
towered above all, bright and blooming ; the entire
scene being one not easily forgotten.

The Broom Road (as it is named) ran on thus for
a long way parallel with the shore, taking us under
the shade of charming trees, and across innumerable
little streams, where were seen numbers of native
girls either bathing or washing their garments;
and occasionally on the way meeting many of the
men in their clean white shirts and parti-coloured
waist-cloths; each, on passing, greeting us with a
cheerful smile and a hearty " Ya rana," which means
all kinds of salutations and blessings ; sometimes even
stopping and shaking hands, with no other earthly
object but kindly good-fellowship.

The scenery, look where one would, was exceed-
ingly pretty. "Wherever there was a break in the
glorious tropical foliage could be seen either pre-
cipitous mountains, clad in refreshing green, and
cleft by deep, cool gorges, or the fine sweep of the
ocean, a brilliant, transparent blue, bound and
bordered by a long white line of foamy surf dashing
against the reefs.

For some miles the road ran on, intersected occa-

P0IN2 VENUS.

33B

sionally with charming Httle villages, with houses,
cool and comfortable, built of hibiscus or bamboo
poles, fixed in the ground a few inches apart,
giving them the appearance of enormous bird-cages.
The roofs are overhanging, and ingeniously con-
structed of plaited palm leaves. At Point Yenus
is a lighthouse, with a flashing light visible for
14 miles, and close at hand is still to be seen the
tamarind-tree planted by Captain Cook near the
spot where he completed those renowned labours
which still single him out as the greatest of Pacific
discoverers.

Another agreeable excursion was one taken to the
beautifully situated hill-fort of Fatauna — renowned
in the annals of the country — which well repays the
trouble of reaching it.

The road lay through guava fields and sugar plan-
tations, and delightfully cool and shady forests, until
rerching one of the most important waterfalls in the
island, where a broad sheet of water is seen leaping
over a perpendicular precipice nearly 700 feet high,
falling into a huge basin some 1500 feet above the
level of the sea.

The naturalists and others took every opportunity
of becoming acquainted with the productions, soil,
climate, and inhabitants. The natives (that is, those
living away from the town and European influences)
are found to be of the same indolent nature which
characterises all those met with amongst the South

I I' 1
Mi "

i' fl

' I

lit;

334

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

'ml

Sea Islands, having but few wants, and those easily
supplied; for bananas, broad-fruit, oranges, pine-
apples, and fais (a sort of wild plantain) grow luxu-
riantly in all directions. All around are picturesque
and rugged hills, imparting a beauty to the scene
which cannot fail to arre?;it one's attention ; while in
close proximity, yet separate I from each other by
deep, dark gorges, showing up their precipitous and
inaccessible sides, are great crags, almost entirely
overgrown with the guava (a plant which was first
imported from South America, in 1815, by an
American missionnry, and which has since increased
at so rapid a rate as to extend over some of the
loveliest spots in the is]; id). The " Diadem," a
name given to severa,! jx. " ■ which have a striking
resemblance to a crown, isplays itself from this
point in all its wondrous loveliness ; and away in the
distance are still more and more lofty mountains,
6000 or 7000 feet high, which probably have never
yet been trod by the foot of the naturalist.

All visitors unite in praise of the beautiful ap-
pearance of Tahiti, and speak of the climate as
being uncommonly delightful and salubrious. It is
moderated by sea and land breezes ; this, combined
with the fertility of the soil, makes it perfectly
evident that almost every tropical plant may be ex-
tensively cultivated with but little labour. As it is,
the sugar-cane, coffee-tree, cotton shrub, the vanilla,
cocoa plant, indigo, rice, and maize are produced ;

DREDOINO OUTSIDE THE REEFS.

'dSo

while of fruits, the banana, bread-fruit, mango, pine-
apple, papaya, cocoa-nut, pandanus, orange, lemon,
custard-apple, guava, &c., are plentiful.

On the morning of September 27th the vessel
warped alongside the promontory of Fare Ute, where
the French Government have what they designate
an " arsenal," if a few rickety sheds, a blacksmith's
shop, and a patent slip (for hauling small vessels up
for repairs) can be so considered. However, such as
it was, we were enabled to fill up with cc 1, and
soon all was ready for sea.

A day was spent outside the reefs dredging
amongst the corals, on which occasion we had a small
party of ladies, &c., amongst whom were included
Moa, Queen of Raiatea, Maru, Princess Royal of
Tahiti, the Chieftess of Morea (Mrs. Brander), and
others. Of the gentlemen, the most distinguished
was the King of Raiatea. The trade-wind was blow-
ing very strongly outside, and a rough and squally
day was the result ; so there was but little enjoyment
for the ladies, who were, after all, far better pleased
when, in the evening, the^vessel again anchored
inside the reefs.

The next day swung ship for azimuth and magnetic
corrections.

CUSTOMS GUARD HOUSE, VALPARAISO, CHILI.

CHAPTER XVI.

Society Islands to Juan Fernandez and Valparaiso (Chili).

Leave Tahiti — Parting scenes — Westerly winds — Sounding and
trawling — Juan Fernandez in sight — Picturesque scenery-
Robinson Crusoe — Anchor in Cumberland Bay — The tablet at
Crusoe's look-out — The SettlemeLt past and present — Leave
Juan Fernandez — The run to Valparaiso — Arrival and anchor
off the city — The city and harbour — Swinging ship for magnetic
corrections.

Oct. 3rd. — This morning steamed out clear of the
reefs, and so had the parting view of Tahiti. The
breeze freshened in our favour, and steam was dis-
pensed with. When a good offing had been made, a
course was shaped south-east, and beautiful Tahiti,
with its imposing and irregular outline of hills and

I'l'ii

i''

ISO (Chili).

»unding «aiicl
le scenery —
|he tablet at
sent — Leave
and anchor
For magnetic

ir of the

liti. The

was dis-

made, a

|1 Tahiti,

lills and

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SOUNDING AND TRAWLING.

337

rich vegetation, was soon left behind us like a
shadowy vision of dream-land.

We had a capital breeze, and all seemed to pro-
mise a speedy run over the solitary waste of waters
intervening in the 5000 miles between Tahiti and
Valparaiso.

On October 17th, however, the wind headed us;
and until the 21st we were running on a southerly
course. When reaching latitude 40° 8' south, longi-
tude 132° 52' west, we picked up the commencement
of the westerlies, which carried us on until the 3rd
November, in latitude 39° 22', longitude 98° 40', and
1368 miles from our destination. For a week now
we had calms, during which steam was used for
about 300 miles. On the 8th a breeze sprang up,
but it was of short duration, and the remainder
of the distance, until sighting the island of Juan
Fernandez, was performed under steam.

Thus nearly six weeks passed, during which sound-
ings were obtained on twenty different occasions,
showing an average of 2160 fathoms (the least
being 1500, and greatest depth 2600 fathoms).
Dredging was successfully carried out at intervals ;
the bottom was found to consist for the most part
of a chocolate-coloured mud. Large quantities of
manganese modules, and on two or three occa-
sions several sharks' teeth, were brought up in the
trawl.

Through a succession of unfavourable winds.

1! '

338

CRUISE OF HM.8. CHALLENOEB

causing us to run so far to the southwta./ of our
course, the change of temperature was much felt ;
for having been so long accustomed to the warm,
Miuiling tropical skies, the dull and overcast weather,
the low temperature, and frequent rains seemed to be
doubly cold and gloomy.

Nov. ISth. — A thousar^d miles north had to be run
when land was reported — the solitary island of Juan
Fernandez. The morning was fine, and I think 1
may say I have never seen a more remarkable and
picturesque view than the approach to the anchorage
presented. Great mountains appear, torn and broken
into every conceivable fantastic shape, with deep
ravines, through which the torrents at times sweep
down from the precipitous cliffs, which rise one
above the other, finally culminating in a great
mass 3000 feet high, known as the Yunque, or
Anvil (from its resemblance to the iron block used
by blacksmiths). This is wooded nearly from the
summit to the base, where are indications of its
having been at one time cleared for cultivation (at
the time probably when the Spaniards made the
attempt to colonise it), for the stone walls which
served to divide the inclosures still remain. There are
also the remains of a fort, named San Juan Bautista,
and a few tumble-down shanties, in which some forty
or fifty people are existing, seeking a precarious
living by supplying vessels that occasionally call here
with fresh provisions, &c. It is certainly a strange

of our
ih felt ;
warm,
eatlier,
d to be

be run
)f Juan
think 1
ble and
3horage
broken
;h deep
i sweep
ise one
I great
que, or
ck used
om the
i of its
tion (at
ade the
3 which
here are
Bautista,
ue forty
'ecarious
call here
strange

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JUAN FERNANDEZ,

339

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OS
H

■J
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o

H
SI

fact tuat people can be found to isolate themselves in
such out-of-the-way places as this. Doubtless, in the
abstract, it is a fine thing to be monarch of all one
surveys ; but those who have realised it are generally
found to reverse their early aspirations, and own that
solitude is not good for mankind. It was on this island
that Alexander Selkirk was landed in 1704, from
a ship he was serving in at the time as master ;
and here he remained in solitude for more than
four years. Eventually, on being rescued, and re-
turning to England, he gave the narrative of his
sojourn hero to the great romancer of his day, Daniel
Defoe, in order to prepare it for publication ; and it
was from the ideas so furnished that the excellent
and well-known story of Robinson Crusoe was
formed.

Anchoring in Cumberland Bay, in 40 fathoms, not
far from the shore, we found it quite safe and
pleasant. The bay has much the appearance of a
huge crater of an old volcano, surrounded on all
sides, except one (the entrance), with high precipi-
tous cliffs, which are torn up into deep ravines and
valleys. Here, at anchor, a couple of days were
spent, and in the brief time permitted the most was
made of it. All the places near at hand immortalised
by Selkirk were visited — the " caves," his " huts,"
and "look-out" (a gap some 2000 feet above the
level of the sea), where a glorious view, both north
and south, was obtained. Here H.M.S. Topazc^ in

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-■II ■■*««teiwii(wt-ai«B».-ai.iBa

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840

CBUISE OF E.M.S. CHALLENOEB.

1868, placed an iron tablet, with the following in-
scription: —

Sn Mtmavs af

ALEXANDER SELKIRK, Mariner,

A native of Lagos, in the County of Fife, Scotland,

Who was on this Island in complete solitude
for four years and four months.

He was landed from the Cinque Ports Galley, 96 tons,

16 guns, A.D. 1704, and was taken off in the

Duke privateer, 12 Feb. 1709.

He died Lieutenant of the Weymouth, a.d. 1723,
Aged 47 years.

This tablet is erected near Selkirk's look-out by

Comm(xloro Powell and Officers of

H.M.S. Topaze, a.d. 18G8.

Naturalists and others were busily engaged collect-
ing birds and specimens, and a few photographs
were obtained ; and, what was very acceptable after
the long voyage, plenty of fresh food, for the bay
proved a most prolific fishing-ground, and from the
settlers, beef, &c., of excellent quality was supplied.

The island is only some ten or twelve miles long,
'^y four broad. The shore is formed by a steep,
dark bare rock, rising up some 800 or 900 feet,
through which wild ravines run, giving here and
there views of grassy plains and verdant valleys of
considerable extent, thickly wooded with a luxuriant
foliage of great variety, amongst which were notice-
able great numbers of peach-trees, which are said to
have been planted by Lord Anson in 1741, when on
his famous voyage round the world. Figs, straw-

THE SETTLEMENT PAST AND PRESENT. 341

berries, and cherries are also obtainable in their
seasons. Twenty-four varieties of ferns were found
by the collectors, and myrtle-trees abound in great
numbers over the island.

Since the discovery of the island in 1563 it has
been the scene of many vicissitudes. At first it was
much visited by the old buccaneers, when on their
marauding expeditions against the Spaniards ; and
during one of these visits, in 1681, a negro (from the
West Indies) belonging to one of the vessels was
accidentally left behind, and remained in solitude for
three years until rescued. Twenty years after this
(1704) we hear of Selkirk's solitary life, and of
several others, each of whom has at times been the
solitary inhabitant of Juan Fernandez ; which seems
to entitle the island to be called the land of Robinson
Crusoe. In 1717 the Spanish government, jealous
of other nations coming here, established a colony ;
but it was soon after almost totally destroyed by a
dreadful earthquake, a calamity the island has been
subject to on more than one occasion since. In 1810,
when the Chilians gained their independence, this
island formed a part of their possessions; and in
1819 they formed it into a penal settlement, and
have had as many as five hundred prisoners at a time
here. But it was found expensive; and in 1835 the
prisoners mutinied, and for a short time overcame
the troops. After this the convicts were removed to
the mainland, and the island was again deserted, and

■^ I

'"iiiiirlii.hni>iMJ<rir*Tiyir-r Mitm'

342

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENOEB.

Hiii

SO remained for some forty years. At the present
time it is leased to a Chilian merchant, who employs
all the settlers in cutting wood, tending cattle, &c.,
and during the season seal-hunting, both here and
at Masaftiera, HO miles distant, when they usually
capture some two thousand, the skins of which are at
present worth $16 each. The climate is mild, and
considered healthy; but the weather is subject to
great changes. During our stay the mornings were
generally cloudy, with showers of rain ; towards
noon it cleared, and for the remainder of the day it
was usually fine and pleasant.

On the evening of the 15th November we left
Cumberland Bay, steaming out clear of the head-
lands, when sail was made, and the 300 miles
separating us from Valparaiso were expected to be
soon got over ; but rough seas and head-winds de-
layed, and made a long passage. It was not until
the morning of the 19th November that land was
in sight, and as the haze cleared, it proved to
be the faint outline of Aconcagua, the highest of
the Chilian Andes. A few hours later we made
the lighthouse on the southern part of the bay. It
was a pleasant sight on approaching the anchorage,
which was full of shipping; and the appearance of
the city to us, just come in from the turbulent sea,
was very chaiming; the buildings extend along,
row after row, for a considerable distance in front of
the bay, and surmount the hillocks which rise at

VALPARAISO.

843

of
at

short distances from the shore, forming the districts
known to the sailors as the Fore, Main, and Mizen
Top.

The west point of the hay (San Antonio) is well
fortified with strong batteries, a precaution taken
since the bombardment by the Spaniards a few years
ago. A well-built mole extends from the Plaza in
front of the Custom House and Exchange, and to the
right a pile of fire-proof bonded warehouses are built,
and others are in course of construction.

The railway runs for 110 miles, passing several
small wayside villages, and by the valley of the
Aconcagua, to the north-east of Quilliota and its
mineral deposits, and so on to Santiago.

A three weeks' stay in the port of one of the
principal commercial cities in South America made
us quite familiar with the sights. But after all,
even by frequent walks through its lengthy and
elegant streets, and occasionally a run up the line
by rail, it is difficult to form even a slight con-
ception of Chili and the life and country beyond the
Andes.

Everything about the town — the houses, si ^ps,
and population — has quite a European aspect ; so
that go where one would, through streets and
squares, with their lofty edifices, gay hotels, and
large and splendid stores, abounding in everything
that can minister to human requirements and luxury
(but, I might add, at a most exorbitant 2)rice), it

844

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENQEB.

required but little stretch of the imagination to fancy
oneself in some European capital.

Nothing here can be seen to tell of its early days,
or to show it up as the native home of the Arau-
canian Indian. All is changed ; and it is only when
reaching the capital, and contemplating the fine
panorama there presented, that the fact can really be
realised of our close proximity to the Andes.

Of public buildings there are several ; those of the
Exchp.nge and Custom House and Palace of Justice
being the most extensive and commodious. Banks,
theatres, masonic halls, and other edifices, are
scattered over its length and breadth. Tram-cars
run from one end of the city to the other. It is in
communication with Europe by submarine cable, and
the numerous lines of mail-steamers, both via Panama
and the Straits of Magellan, give great facilities
to commerce, and increase its importance. Near
at hand are numerous protective batteries, and on
the heights are the artillery barracks, &c., from
which point can be had a fine view over the city
and its environs, hemmed in by the ocean. The
roadstead resembles that of Bahia, and is about
2^ miles wide and IJ mile deep, entirely open
to the north ; and when strong weather from
that quarter sets in, there is usually a very heavy
sea, that occasions much mischief amongst the
shipping, which are usually moored head and stern
in pretty regular order, with the double object that

SWINGING SHIP.

SdS

in case of a sudden " norther " they may not suffer
from dragging their anchors, and be able to shp their
cables and proceed to sea at once.

During a stay of three weeks (19th November to
11th December), refitting and completing with stores,
a day was spent outside for swinging ship, with a
view of ascertaining (as has been our usual course
in every port) by observation the local variation of
the needle.

I 1

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open
from

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BiSBSiSESBQ

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MOUNTAINS AND GLACIERS IN MAGELLAN STRAITS.

CHAPTER XVII.

Valparaiso, through the Straits of Magellan.

Leave Valparaiso — Sight Juan Fernandez— Sounding and dredging —
Strong head winds — Fall in with the westerUes - Sight Cape
Gallagos and Cape Trcs Monies — Anchor in Port Otway — Tlie
Entrance Islands — Last day of 1875 — Leave Port Otway — Passing
through the Messier Channel — Ancliorin Hale Cove — The scenery
— Foliage — Leave Hale Cove— Continuance of passage throupli
the Messier Channel — Stop and trawl off Middle Island — The
pretty scenery — Anchor in Gray Harbour— The excursions — Grass
and trees on tire— The grand effect at night— Leave Gray Harbour
— Messier Channel and Indian Reach — The English Narrows --
Mid-Channel Island — The fine scenery — Dredging off Saumaurez
Island — Anchor in Port Grappler — The derelict fforwac^- Weather
during our stay — Leave Port Grappler — Pass through Wide Chan-
nel — Dredging, &c. — Anchor in Tom Bay — The excursionists —
Squally weather — Drag our anchors — Leave Tom Bay — Concep-
tion Channel — Proposed survey in the Trinidad Channel frus-
trated through the weather — Pass through Conception Channel

LEAVE VALPARAISO.

347

— Soundings, &c., in Innocent Channel — Tlie fine scenery —
Anchor in Puerto Bueno Bay — Pr^ty scenes — The weather —
Leaving Puerto Bueno Bay — The scenery and weather in pass-
ing through Sanniento Channel — Sounding and dredging —
The Zach Peninsula — Anchor in Isthmus Bay — Leave Isthmus
Bay — Passing through Mayne Channel and Smyth's Channel — The
fine scenery— Entor the Straits of Magellan— Cape Pillar in sight
— Enter the picturesque Port of Churruca — The Glaciers — Leave
Port Churruca — Pass through Crooked and English Reaches — Oil'
Fortesciie Bay — The Fuegians — OfiF Cape Fro ward — Anchor in Port
Famine — The old Spanish settlement in 1581 — The Chilian settle-
ment of 1843 — Leave Port Famine and arrive at Sandy Point —
The Chilian settlement — Coal mines and gold workings — Leave
Sandy Point and reach the anchorage off Elizabeth Island — Ex-
ploring parties — Finding fossil bones — Leave Elizabeth Island —
Icissing through the Second and First Narrows — Off Gregory Bay
— Pass the meridian of Cape Horn — Again in the Atlantic —
Pass Cape Virgin — Sounding and Trawling.

VALPARAISO TO PORT OTWAY.

At length all was ready, and on the morning of
11th December we took our departure, favoured
with fine weather. On clearing the land, we made
eail, and, with a promising breeze, there seemed good
prospect that the 800 miles to the entrance to the
etraits would soon be accomplished, but we had
reckoned without our host ; strong southerly winds
prevailed, causing us to run far to the westward.
On the 17th sighted Juan Fernandez, when we
dredged in 1375 fathoms with satisfactory results.
For another week we continued on our cruise, fre-
quently sounding and dredging from an average
depth of 1600 fathoms, by which time we had run as
far west as 89° 25', when we fell in with the com-
mencement of the westerlies:, and were able to lay a

348

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGLB.

course for our destination. On the morning of De-
cember 3 let, land was reported; amidst the haze
and fog, Cape Gallagos was observed, a bold pro-
montory rising from the waters ; and somewhat
later, on the mist clearing, Cape Tres Montes, a
remarkable he?"^' *, was seen stretching before
us to the heignt of 2000 feet. We stopped for
a short time, and sounded and trawled in 1500
fathoms with good results, then proceeded for some
fifteen miles, and came to anchor in Port Otway, a
pretty, snug place, with a sandy beach, and several
small islets covered with trees (the Entrance Islands),
amongst which is the Logan Rock, having a strong
resemblance to the celebrated rock of that name on
the coast of Cornwall. Here the last fleeting hours
of 1875 were passed. We all sat up late, spending
a jovial evening with the Captain and Professor, till
the advent of the New Year, when, in conformity
with an old custom (at the conclusion of the first
watch, midnight), sixteen strokes of the bell were
given — eight in honour of the departing year, and the
same number in celebration of the birth of the new
one.

PORT OTWAY TO HALE COVE.

Jan, 1st, 1876. — At an early hour this morning
we steamed across the Gulf of Penas, and had several
trawlings ; bottom at 50 fathoms. We entered Messier
Channel in the course of the afternoon, and anchored
about 6 P.M. in Hale Cove, surrounded by high,

ANCnOB IN OB AY HABBOUB.

349

steep hills, thickly covered with a scrubby vegetation.
Immediately afterwards parties landed, and set out
for a cruise in the vicinity of the anchorage. It waa
a perfectly still evening, and the scenery was exceed-
ingly pretty. The wooded hills bathed in sunlight,
and the placid surface of the water, which reflected
the clear blue sky, the delicate clouds, and the trees
growing at the margin, made a charming picture.
The vegetation consisted principally of winter's bark,
evergreen birch, with ferns and mosses in profusion.

HALE COVE TO GRAY HAKBOUR.

Jan. 2nd. — A fine morning as we steamed from the
anchorage ; we pursued our way through the Messier
Channel, stopped off Middle Island, where we
sounded in 340 fathoms, and afterwards proceeded.
The perfectly calm surface of the water made it
very charming. The mountains on either side rose
high out of it, clothed with trees from the base to
a height of upwards of 1000 feet, with here and
there numerous cascades rushing down their sides,
pouring their waters into the channel. It was 6.30
P.M. when we anchored in Gray Harbour, a quiet,
secluded spot. Here a second day was spent, and
the weather continuing fine, it enhanced the beauty
of the scenery, consisting of numerous small islands,
and banks well-wooded even to the water's edge,
while behind high mountains rose, capped with
large quantities of snow. Excursions were made

350

CBUI8E OF EMS. CHALLENOEB,

to a large lake-like expanse of water, with a river
flowing into its upper end. A few fish were
caught, and several birds (fine ducks, geese, &c.)
were shot.

Amongst the numerous picnic parties scattered
over the shore, some " by accident " set the long
grass on fire, which speedily communicated with the
trees and foliage, and after a short time fires were
raging with great fury, sweeping up the valleys and
along the shore, continuing all the remainder of the
day. As night advanced, it was a grand sight ; the
roaring of the fire in the stillness of the night,
and the bright glare illuminating the hill-tops and
placid waters of the harbour, had a fine effect.

GRAY HARBOUR TO PORT ORAPPLER.

Jan. M, — The fire still burnt in various directions,
and trees and shrubs continued to fall under its de-
vouring effect as we left the anchorage, steaming
onwards past Indian Reach. The morning was fine,
and a bright, clear calm allowed us to fully enjoy the
splendid scenery on either side of the channel. "We
had now entered the English Narrows, where great
care is necessary in navigating, for a strong 3ur-
rent sweeps through, and a small islet (Mid-Channel
Island), situate in the narrowest part, requires
to be quickly rounded. After clearing these in-
tricate passages, we came into broader water. The
nearer hills rose perpendicularly out of the waters,

THE DERELICT KARNACK.

361

clothed almost to their summits with trees, while
others more distant were dark and gloomy, their
high, jagged peaks covered with glaciers and many
a winter's snow.

As we proceeded farther southward, changes be-
came noticeable in the appearance of the land, which
on either side became of a much bolder and more
elevated character. The sky had become cloudy and
overcast, and the temperature of the air had fallen
several degrees, while icy blasts came howling down
deep gorges and crevasses, with occasional squalls of
rain, giving us warning of what we had to expect
on our further progress through these wild and in-
hospitable regions. On arriving off Saumaurez Island,
we stopped and dredged in 147 fathoms, obtaining
a few starfish, some echini, corals, a couple of fish,
and some stones. After this we stood across to the
mainland, and entered the excellent and well-sheltered
harbour of Port Grappler. On anchoring, a small
steam-vessel was observed at the head of the harbour,
which, when we boarded, was found to be a supposed
total wreck. On the boat returning, it was accom-
panied by a stranger, from whom the following
particulars were elicited.

The vessel was named the Karnack, belonging to
a German company trading between Hamburg and
Valparaiso, and had left the latter place about a
month before. On her way througli the straits (about
ten miles to the north) she had struck on a sunken

II in

352

CBUISE OF B.M.S. CHALLENGEB.

f !

rock, and, although the water gained rapidly, they
were enabled to reach this harbour, and get her into
shallow water : they then cleared out all they could
from her (for high-water came up to the main-deck)^
and encamped on the Middle Island. After a short
time they were rescued by the French war-steamer
La Cher, and taken to Sandy Point. On their way
they fell in with a steam-vessel bound to Valparaiso,,
to which they gave information of the wreck. This
caused the ship to call here; and finding matters not
so bad as represented, they took possession of the
derelict, leaving four men behind them in charge,
intending, on their reaching Loto or Yali)araiso, ta
send assistance to save the cargo (which consisted of
silver ore, hides, sugar, saltpetre, and nuts), and to
get her afloat again — to do which there appeared to
be but little difficulty. Those in possession would
accept no assistance from us.

Although it rained continuously during our stay^
it did not deter our sportsmen landing to explore the
surrounding land. After scrambling through thick
shrubbery, a flat space of tolerably open ground was
reached. Here a few ducks and geese were bagged.
The whole country seemed drenched with moisture,
which we afterwards found, on proceeding farther
south, was the normal condition of all the land
bordering this part of the straits and channel.

ANCHOB IN TOM BAT.

853

PORT GRAPPLER TO TOM BAT.

Jan, 5th. — There being nothing further to detain
us, it was decided to proceed on our way southwards
through Wide Channel.

The day at first gave promise of being very fair,
and the view of the great masses of rock on either
side, the dark frowning headlands, and snowy peaks
beyond, was remarkably fine. We stopped for a short
time in the channel and dredged, getting a collection
of starfish, echini, corals, and sponges ; then pro-
ceeded on, and anchored in Tom Bay, quite near the
entrance to Conception Channel, on the east coast of
Madre Channel.

A few geese and other birds were observed, and it
was decided to remain the next day for exploration,
and to survey the anchorage. Many parties landed,
but, after a fatiguing scramble through bushes and
over the boggy ground, very little was obtained.
However, sufficient of the vegetation was seen to
show that it was very similar to that met with at the
other anchorages. Continued and heavy rain fell,
and during the early hours of the morning violent
gales of wind, in squalls, swept down the gorges on
us, causing the anchor to drag. Steam was, how-
ever, at command, and no danger resulted. Still, all
day the furious squalls blew through the ravines
from the mountains at short intervals until evening,
when the wind moderated.

2 A

¥l 1

354

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

TOM BAY TO PUERTO BUENO BAT.

Jan. Sth. — This morning, as the weather had
cleared, and appeared to be promising, we proceeded
down Trinidad Channel, where it was proposed to
remain a few days to complete a survey of some of
the harbours on the south coast. However, we had
hardly cleared our late berth when the weather be-
came overcast; rain and a settled haze set in, and
we were prevented from carrying out our intended
survey, which had to be abandoned, and our course
altered ; afterwards, with a fair wind, we entered
Conception Channel, and proceeded at a good pace.
We stopped in Innocent Channel ; sounded and
dredged in 142 fathoms (green mud), temperature
at bottom 47° Fahr. ; passed some beautiful and
wild scenes, great ravines opening into charming
spots, which occasionally were enlivened by the
sun peeping out in the calm intervals between the
squalls. Our track now led us through Guia Nar-
rows ; here we dredged in 50 fathoms, getting a good
haul ; at 4.30 p.m. we anchored in Puerto Bueno Bay.
Two days were spent here, and the weather being
moderately fine, this pretty harbour, which well
deserves its name, appeared to full advantage.
Many charming little islands, covered with trees,
are scattered over its waters.

Close along the weter's edge is a narrow strip of
grass, and immediately behind is a mass of thick

PUEBTO BUENO BAT.

355

vegetation and trees, consisting of winter's bark,
evergreen birch, &c. ; while beyond, and as far as the
eye can reach, are extensive bare hills, with occasional
patches of stunted shrubs, and tracts of boggy ground
covered with a thick, low vegetation. In the even-
ing the weather was very squally, with thunder and
lightning and heavy rain, and all were thankful we
were lying in so comfortable a berth instead of
being at sea. However, in the intervals many parties
started for a run over the country with gun and rod,
but the sport was not very encouraging.

PUERTO BUENO BAY TO ISTHMUS BAY.

Jan, 10th. — Left the anchorage at an early hour ;
the rain fell heavily, it was exceedingly cold, and
the landscape presented a most v/intry appearance ;
the snowy hills ranging along on each side, and che
bare rock looking most desolate and dreary in the
surrounding haze, and this was midsummer. Steaming
on through Sarmiento Channel, we dredged in 400
fathoms (soft green mud) ; temperature 46*5° Fahr. ;
we got several specimens of coral, sponges, and fish.
On the conclusion of this operation, we proceeded,
passing Esperanza, Vancouver's, and Owen's Islands,
Staines Peninsula, Carrington Islands, and through
the Farquhar Pass into Collingwood Straits ; passed
Newton and Hunter Islands, and so through Victory
Pass, a lovely spot studded with small islands ;
reached the Zach Peninsula, and ancliored on its

2 A 2

356

CRUISE OF HM.S. CHALLENGER.

western side, in Isthmus Bay, finding it an excel »«nt
and well-sheltered port

ISTHMUS BAY TO PORT CHURRUCA.

Jan, 11th. — Weighing early this morning, we
sighted the high mountain of King William lY.
Land, and passed through Mayne Channel, which led
us into Smyth's Channel. It rained heavily and fre-
quently throughout the day, but in intervals of clear
weather it was a fine sight to contemplate the mag-
nificent scenery on the Patagonian and Fuegian shores,
the mountains towering up steeply from the water's
edge, with their summits in most instances covered
with snow. Keeping along the Patagonian side, we
passed some striking cliffs, with deep chasms and
gorges, down which cascades ran from their srowy
heights. We had now reached the east coast of
Queen Adelaide's Land. On passing, a splendid view
was had of rugged grey mountains and snowy peaks,
with glaciers of many miles in length. At noon we
stopped off Sholl Bay, the south point of Queen
Adelaide's Archipelago ; here we trawled, obtaining
several interesting specimens. We had now really
entered the Straits of Magellan, and some few miles
in the distance could be seen Cape Pillr r, its western
entrance. We steamed across, passing Beaufort
Bay and Tamar Island, and at 2.45 p.m. we entered
by a narrow passage a very remarkable port — Chur-
ruca, surrounded on all sides by high and rugged hills,

!*l

POUT CIIUERUCA.

357

eventually anchoring in a beaut^'^ul landlocked bay.
On landing, the woods were found so thick and tangled
that it was hardly possible to penetrate into them
for any distance ; so the sportsmen had to be content
at getting a stray shot from the beach, or scrambling
over some sieep banks close to where some cataracts
came rushing down the mountain-sides, from which
could be seen masses of ice extending a considerable
distance, exhibiting deep longitudinal and transverse
crevasses, the fine blue colouring of which formed
a great contrast with the dazzling purity of an
extensive snow-field.

PORT CHURRUCA TO PORT FAMINE.

Jan. ISth.—We spent a second day at Churruca
for an inland excursion, which was much enjoyed
by the naturalists, in search of sport and specimens.
This morning, being anxious to get on, we again
got under weigh. On clearing the harbour, we found
a very strong breeze in our favour, and under steam
and sail rapidly passed the land, which was covered
with thick haze. As the day advanced, it cleared,
and massive glaciers could be seen extending almost
to the water's edge. Proceeding, we passed the
Cordova Peninsula, and through Crooked and
English Reaches; the coast appeared to be high,
rugged, and seemingly continuous, but on nearing it
was seen to be made up of numbers of small islands,
the sea intersecting the land in every direction,

!•[•

858

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

and opening into large gulfs and sounds. By noon
we were off Fortescue Bay, where it was decided
to remain for a short time for dredging. On the
somewhat cleared spaces could be seen the fires of
the Fuegians, and well can I remember when last
here seeing the canoes alongside, with the natives
screaming and gesticulating for "tabac." Some of
them had small seal-skins over their shoulders, but
the greater number, both of men and women, were
entirely naked ; and considering the severity of the
weather, it seems strange how they exist. Yet with
all this there is no reason to believe that these people
are decreasing in numbers ; therefore we must sup-
pose that they enjoy a sufficient share of happiness,
of whatever kind it may be, to make life worth
having. Nature, by making habit omnipotent, and
its effects hereditary, has fitted the Fuegian to the
climate a,nd the production of his miserable country.
Proceeding on our way, at 4 p.m. we were off
Cape Froward (the most southern point of South
America), Here we encountered some fierce squalls
(williwaws) of wind rushing down the gorges and
channels. We shortened all sail and steamed on the
remainder of the way, until reaching Port Famine,
where we stopped for the night. It was here the
first penal settlement was established by the Chilian
government in the straits, in 1843. This place
expresses by its name the lingering and extreme
suffering of several hundreds of Spaniards, who had

TEE CHILIAN SETTLEMENT OF 1843.

359

landed here with a view of estabHshing a settle-
ment, under the direction of Sarmiento (in 1581),
their object being to fortify two positions (one here,
the other at Cape Possession), in order to prevent
the English from passing through. After a short
time Sarmiento left for Spaiii, and on his way there
he was taken prisoner by Sir Walter Raleigh, and
brought to England, while the unfortunate colonists
were left to starve in the straits. Their fate re-
mained unknown, until Cavendish passed through in
1587, when he found only twenty-four out of the
original four hundred colonists. The port was then
named Port Famine, in commemoration of the sad
fate of its first settlers.

The excellent anchorage and sheltered position
were the chief reasons for its being selected by the
Chilians for establishing their first colony ; but the
same ill-luck appears to have attended it ; for after
struggling on for some years, during which time the
colonists were frequently reduced to great distress by
the failure of supplies arriving from Chih, it was
sacked and burnt down by the cciivicts, who
mutinied and killed all the officials, making good
their escape in a small vessel. Eventually, how-
ever, they were captured, and met with their de-
served punishment.

Our stay was very short here. Still numbers
landed as usual in search of sport and specimens ;
but as so much rain had fallen, the country in all

; I

360 CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGES.

directions was like a great bog. Had several hauls
with the trawl in the harbour, getting plentiful
supplies of" large prawns, starfish, coral, and sea-
weed,

PORT FAMINE TO SANDY POINT.

Jan. I4tth. — A charming morning. We left the
port, and steaming over a calm sea, and passing the
land rapidly, it was near 9 a.m.. when the anchor
was dropped in the roadstead off Punta Arenas, the
site of a small settlement established by the Chilian
government. This colony, the only one in the
straits, has a governor and other officials, and some
hundred colonists.

I took the opportunity of landing, and had a stroll
round the settlement, which consists of a number
of wooden buildings so grouped as to form one long-
straggling street, running nearly parallel with the
beach. From this it is intended that other streets
shall branch off, but they are at present only indi-
cated by scattered buildings half a mile apart. A
large square, or Plaza, is provided for, on one side of
which is the hospital, and on the other the residence
of the British Consul (Mr. Hamilton). At the ex-
treme end of the main street is the residence of the
governor, and beyond is a large inclosure containing
the barracks, the prison, and the guard-house.

A small river is at hand, and forests where abun-
dant supplies of timber are to be obtained ; here
also are considerable tracts of open country for cattle-

COAL MINES AND GOLD WORKINGS.

361

grazing. Before leaving, I took the opportunity of
visiting the coal deposit whicli has recently been
discovered, and for the working of which a company
has been formed.

The mine is situated some six miles inland, and
is easily reached by a line of railway, over which .
a locomotive and trucks run frequently during the
day. After leaving the cleared space of the settle-
ment the road lies through a dense forest (just cleared
sufficient for traffic), until reaching the bed of a
stream which debouches at Sandy Point. After cross-
ing this stream by a light bridge, a ravine is reached,
and in the side of a mountain rising some 300 feet
above the level of the sea the shafts or burrows have
been driven, perhaps in some places to a depth of
50 or 60 feet ; the seams vary from 4 to 5 feet in
thickness, and are deposited between layers of clay
and shell, with bands of shale in immediate contact.
From what could be seen of them, the specimens pre-
sented the appearance of the bituminous fuel known
as caking coal. The *' out-put " as 3'^et has not been
very great, but from the results of some thirty tons
tried by us, very fair reports have been made,
especially when mixed with Welsh.

Gold is also found here. For its working a com-
pany has been started. The results, however, have
been smpll, yet I believe sufficient to give encourage-
ment to go on with it.

lation and colonisation increase, the in-

pop uk

862

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

terior of the country will get opened up, and
further discoveries be made, and the accommodation
afforded by the Pacific mail steamers calling will,
ere long, doubtlessly have a beneficial effect on the
prosperity of Punta Arenas.

i ■;■ I

SANDY POINT TO ELIZABETH ISLAND AND CAPE

VIRGIN.

Jan. IHth. — For four days we remained in the
roadstead off the settlement, enjoying the favour-
able weather. This morning proceeded on a course,
passing thickly wooded hills, until clear of Cape
Negro. The coast consisted of low, undulating
plains. The weather being bright and pleasant, a
capital view was afforded us of the snow-clad peak
of Mount Sarmiento, on the southern part of Tierra
del Fuego.

Three hours' run, and anchor was let go off the
Island of San Isabel, or Elizabeth Island. From oui
position it appeared to consist of a range of heights
extending in ridges for some eight miles, covered
mostly with a thick wiry grass. Exploring parties
were soon away, and, besides getting lots of sport with
the gun, they were rewarded by discovering numerous
remains of dry bones. This caused our remaining
a day longer, when reinforcements landed with pick
and shovel, and before leaving at night a large heap
of dry and fossilised bones was collected, and may
possibly by and by suggest the existence of some

AGAIN IN THE ATLANTIC.

3GS

idunki

'hich

[iiown creatures, w men ages
over hill and dale in these remote regions. On the
morning of the 20th got under weigh with the flood
tide, which, with the strong breeze in our favour, took
us rapidly through the Narrows, the scenery on either
si<le showing but little variety until sighting the
high land near Gregory Bay, which has a very
picturesque effect, rising near the shore and running
on for some distance in an easterly direction.

On the Fuegian side, as far as Cape de Espirito
Santo, the land was low and uninteresting near the
coast, but amidst the haze in the distance high,,
bleak, and rugged mountains were observed.

We had now passed the meridian of Cape Horn,
and were again in the Atlantic, and notwithstanding
tlie squally and uncertain weather during the past
three weeks, we had been enabled to make a great
variety of most interesting daily observations in our
passage through the straits and channels, and to
obtain many valuable results for the benefit of science.
A few hours later, and we were clear of the straits,,
passing Cape Virgin, a long, low, dark cliff sloping;
down at one end into the sea.

.^'^^^^

■fl'
.pi

:-tS^"*^ ' i \ '.'"^^E**

M^i

^ l f!

lit

B'f;f

OArB FKOWAKI), STKAITH OF MAGELLAN.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Cape Virgin to Falkland Islands and Monte Video,

Our first haul in the Atlantic — The Jason Islands — Eddystone Rock —
Cape Pembroke — Falkland Islands in sight — Enter Port William
— Anchor off Stanley — '^he settlement — Climate — Death of an
able seaman by drowniuf^ — Leave for Port Louis — Anchor in
Berkley Bay — Funeral of our late shipmate — Return to Stanley —
The Stream of Stones— Leaving the Falklands — Stormy weather
—Sounding and trawling — Sight the land off Lobos Island— Pass
Maldonado Point — Steaming up the Rio de la Plata — Anchor off
Monte Video — The city and suburbs.

CAPE VIRGIN TO FALKLAND ISLANDS.

Having a strong and favourable breeze, good progress
was made, and before nightfall the coast-line was

ANCHOR OFF STANLEY.

36&

=m\

-it

out of sig'lit. A^ain wo were soundiii^ and trawliiii:-,
and tlie first haul in the Atlantic, from a depth ot
65 fathoms, was very satisfactory. The weather
was bright and clear, with a heavy swell from the
southward,

Jan. 22)1(1, — This morning, amidst fog and haze, the
Jason Islands were reported, a group lying on the
north-east side of the West Falklands ; and later the
remarkable Eddy stone Rock (about 250 feet high),
situated off Cape Dolphin, on the north coast of East
Falkland, was to be seen. Here we sounded in 110
fathoms, and trawled, but without success. Con-
tinuing our course, the next morning the lighthouse
on Cape Pembroke was seen. A few hours later we
entered Port William, and soon after passed through
the narrows, and had our first sight of the town of
Stanley, anchoring within a short distance of the
shore. The weather was fine, which caused Stanley
to have a pretty appearance from the anchorage, witli
its white cottages and light frame-houses scattered
somewhat irregularly on the slope of a hill, brighten-
ing up the otherwise desolaie and sterile appearance
of the settlement, where not even a single tree exists
or a strip of wood grows of sufficient size for the
most ordinary purposes. Attempts have been made
from time to time to propagate trees, &c., but in all
cases they have been attended with entire failure.
On landing at the town pier, the first thing to notice
is a small obelisk, erected in commemoration of the

366

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

visit of Prince Alfred, in 1868, when in command of
H.M.S Galatea, Fromhere a street so called leads to
the top of the hill, and branching away is Ross Road,
which runs along for some two miles, facing the
harbour, and in front of all the houses ; at its western
extremity is Government House, a plain stone build-
ing within a fence. At the other extreme is the
cemetery. This appears to be the only level walk in
the colony. The hills are but very rarely available
for a walk, consisting, for the most part, of little
else than rock and boggy ground. I cannot call to
mind any other settlement (except, perhaps, Tristan
d'Acunha) more dismal, miserable, and devoid of all
interest, than this at the Falkland Islands. It has
formed a portion of our British colonial possessions
since 1833, when a Lieutenant-Governor was first
appointed, the seat of government at that time being
at Port Louis, but in 1842 it was changed to its
present site — Stanley. The position these islands
occupy in a commercial point of view is of great
importance, being placed in the great highway from
Australia, and to and from the west coast of America ;
they are certainly dangerous to approach, yet abound
in safe harbours, with facilities for repairs and for
obtaining refres ments ; beef and mutton being both
excellent and very cheap. Of late but very few
vessels have called.

The climate is considered remarkably healthy.
The winters are about as severe as those usually felt

DEATH OF AN ABLE SEAMAN.

36V

in the north of Scotland ; the summer months are
not so genial, and usually very boisterous. We
experienced a little of its inclemency ; having to visit
Port Louis, some fifty miles distant, to make magnetic
and tidal observations, we found the weather exceed-
ingly stormy, and even while at anclior in Berkley
Sound it was most unpleasant. While here, we buried
one of our shipmates, Thomas Bush, A.B., who fell
overboard from the steam-pinnace, before leaving
Stanley, one dark, rough night ; his remains are
buried in a little inclosure, on an exposed swampy
moorland — not alone, for two or three head-boards
indicate that other wanderers have found rest here.
On the completion of our scientific observations, we
returned to Stanley, which, in the dismal weather,
we all concurred in regarding as one of the most
wretched settlements we had seen for a long time —
all the houses, this cold and rainy afternoon, appear-
ing most dreary

The next day it was a little brighter ; but there is
little of interest here, except, perhaps, to the geologist,
whose attention is sure to be attracted by the extra-
ordinary stream of stones, which is so difficult to
account for. They are formed of great numbers of
fragments of quartz, which are spread out in rows,
from half a mile to one mile in width, and two or
three in length, extending along valleys and to the
tops of some of the highest hills, from which they
appear to have descended.

.1,

»i 'W

868

CBUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGEli.

'I
.1

We had now been here some fourteen days, and
during that time had imparted a little gaiety to the
colonists, T;vith dances and dinner parties.

FALKLAND ISLANDS TO MONTE VIDEO.

F'eb. Qth. — Rain, or wind, or both combined, seem
to constitute the normal state of things in these bleak
and desolate islands ; although during our stay we
had two or three fine days, yet all were glad when it
was decided to proceed on our way north, the weather
promising to be very squally, and soon after clearing
Cape Pembroke there was every indication of a rough
passage before us. Three reefs were taken in top-
sails, and all made snug for the night, during which
but little progress was made. The next day for a
time we had clear blue sky ; still there was a rough
and heavy sea. Pictures from a sailor's note-book
in these wild and stormy latitudes rarely contain any
sketches of blue sky or smooth water, but a^e more
frequently descriptive (as we now found it) of
fierce and stormy waves and howling winds; how-
ever, the wind being from the south-west, it was in
our favour, and each day brought us nearer our
destination. On four occasions we stopped for sound-
ings and trawHngs, getting depths of from 1035 to
2425 fathoms. On the 11th, quite unexpectedly, at
a depth of 2040 fatlioms, we came across a cold
current, temperature 33"8° Fahr., and the next day the

ANCHOR OFF MONTE VIDEO.

3G9

the

temperature was 32^°, surface being 76°. The results
from our dredgings to the natural history collection,
however, were but scanty.

As we neared the coast of South America, the
weather was much finer, and on the 14th we dredged
in 600 fathoms, from a rock bottom, and got numerous
specimens, but nothing new.

Feb. \bth. — This morning, in the haze, we had
a glimpse of the low land lying to the south of
Maldonado Point. We now entered the River La
Plata, or Plate, as it is commonly termed by sailors.
Steaming on over a calm sea for some eighty miles,
at 4.30 P.M. the fine panorama of Monte A'ideo and
its suburbs, with the harbour full of shipping, was in
view, and here we anchored, some two miles off the
shore. From what could be seen of the city, it
seems a charming place, full of bright-looking, hand-
some edifices, built on the side of a hill. Here were
H.M. gun-vessels Cracker and Ready, and repi'esen-
tative men-of-war steam-vessels, flying the national
colours of France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Brazil, and
Uruguay, with great numbers of merchant-vessels of
different nations.

The River La Plata owes its name ^o the Spaniards,
who transferred the produce of the silver mines of
Chili and Peru, on its waters, to the ocean, and thence
to Europe. The gold and silver was brought from
those provinces across the Andes, to Buenos Ayres,
from whence it was shipped ; but the extension of

2 B

''I I

M.l

-i I

870

CRUISE OF E.M.S. CHALLENGER.

1 1

discovery no sooner opened the passage round Cape
Horn than this river lost its original importance.
In point of magnitude it is the third river of the New
World. At its mouth it is 100 miles wide, and oft'
Monte Video it is 50. The banks for some hundreds
of miles are the terminations of vast plains, on which
there is little visible to cheer or enliven the scene,
and nothing to break the solitude, save extensive and
numerous herds of cattle.

Twelve hours' run up by steamer and Buenos
Ayres is reached, a fine large city, vvrjiere many things
of interest are to be seen. The city of Monte Video
stands on a strip of land, which forms the eastern
side of a small bay, on the north bank of the river,
but with our draught was not approachable within
two miles from the shallowness of the water ; what
could be seen of the city from that distance was
somewhat pleasing; the towers and domes of the
cathedral, churches, and public buildings, probably
appeared all the more charming and picturesque
coming as we did from such a miserable place
as the Falklands. On landing, I found the city
laid out in the regular Spanish style, so. prevalent
in South America, that is, in rectangular blocks.
The streets are wide and clean, intersecting each
other at right angles. There is a large proportion of
good dwelling-houses and shops, abounding in every
necessary and luxury. The Cathedral Square, with
its charming gardens and pleasant walks, where the

TUE CITY AND SUBURBS.

871

ace

military bands play every evening, forms the prin-
cipal promenade, and makes it a cheerful and Hgrtc-
able resort of the wealthy residents. From here tlie
road leads to a long straight street, with lofty build-
ings and extensive shops abounding in every require-
ment; trees are planted on each side, and at the
extreme end is a tall column, bearing on its sum-
mit a bronze statue of Liberty. The inhabitants
swarm in the thoroughfares, where are incessant
throngs of vendors, purchasers, and idlers, inter-
mingled with every variety of conveyance ; while
the ear is stunned by the shrill conflicting cry of
the ambulatory dealer of every conceivable com-
modity. Pleasure-gardens are close at hand, besides
theatres, operas, circus, and other places of amuse-
ment suited to the seasons. Bull-fights were being
carried on, and many from the ship visited the ex-
citing but cruel pastime.

2 B 2

K 1

THK CITY OP MONTE VIDEO, LOOKING TOWARDS TUE UAllBOUU.

CHAPTER XIX.

Monte Video to Ascension and the Cape db Verde Islands.

Leave Monte Video— Swinging ship — Sounding and dredging in the
River La Plata — A Pampara off the coast— Enter the cold current
— Its course— Completion of the voyage round the world— What
has been accomplished— Course shaped for Ascension — South-east
trades — Arrive at Ascension — The garrison — George Town —
Scenery — The Green Mountain — Ascension turtle — Leave Ascen-
sion — Sounding — Cross the Equator for the sixth time— The
oppressive region of equatorial calms — Steaming through the
Tropics — Sight the Cape de Verde Islands — Arrive at Santiago —
Anchor off Porto Praya — Leave for St. Vincent— Anchor in Porto

* Grande — Strong trade-winds.

Feb. 25th. — We had now been ten days at Monte
Video, during the greater part of which the weather
had been exceedingly unpleasant ; strong northerly

ENTER THE COLD CURRENT.

373

winds and heavy seas made it both disagreeable and
difficult to land, lying, as we did, fully two miles
from the shore. It happened however to be a fine
day on leaving, and a few hours were devoted to
swinging ship for magnetic corrections and de-
viations. We then proceeded, under steam, out
of the River La Plata. When off Maldonado Bay,
we sounded and dredged in 13 fathoms, getting a
good haul of fish, shrimps, holothuria, and dead
3hell.

On clearing the land, the barometer gave indica-
tions of a coming change in the weather, and, ere
long, the wind freshened, and rain fell in torrents.
It soon became evident we were in for one of the
Pamparas, for which the Plata and its vicinity have
been long celebrated, and which owe their name
to the circumstance of their blowing from off the
Pampas or plains.

All due preparations were made by shortening
sail, and as the wind increased, it found us well pre-
pared. Fortunately it did not last long, and the next
day (Feb. 28) we were able to recommence sounding.
Found bottom at 1900 fathoms; temperature 32*7''
Fahr. ; showing that we had again fallen in with the
cold Antarctic current. During the following nine
days, daily soundings were obtained from an average
depth of 2700 fathoms, showing the same tempera-
ture results (for 400 fathoms from the bottom it was
below 32° Fahr.). On the 9th March the depth was

n I

374

CBUISE OF HJT.S. CHALLENGER.

found to be 1715 fathoms, temperature having risen
to 34°, showing the limit of tlie cold current in an
easterly direction ; this was about 900 miles from the
first sounding. The current now appeared to turn
north, and after crossing the Equator in the vicinity
of St. Paul's Rocks, to take a course again to the east-
ward, and so strike down the western coast of
Africa; for on the 27th Oct. 1873, when 130 miles
from the Cape of Good Hope, a cold under-current
(temperature 32*9°) was found at a depth of 2325
fathoms, which, in all probability, was a branch of
this now met with. On March the 10th the depth
was found to have increased to 2200 fathoms ;
temperature 34°. We trawled and obtained serial
temperatures during the two following days. The
weather continued very miserable — heavy rain and
calms ; so the progress towards Tristan d'Acunha was
very slow.

The 13th March possessed an interest of its own
for those on board, as on that day ^e crossed the
course which had been followed some two years and a
half before in the passage from Bahia to the Cape
of Good Hope. Thus the actual circumnavigation of
the world had been successfully completed, and at
least the greater portion of the cruise hap2:)ily
achieved. Since leaving this position, latitude 35° 41
south, longitude 20° 55' west, the vessel had sailed over
about 44,000 miles. Some two hundred soundings,
and nearly as many successful dredgings, had been

COUBSE SHAPED FOR ASCENSION.

taken in all the great oceans and channels of import-
ance in our track, in depths averaging from 1000 to
4000 fathoms. The soundings and temperatuies
have supplied the material information, by which
oceanic sections have been constructed, showing for-
mation of the bottom, the depth, variation in the
temperatures, the currents, and specific gravity, &c.,
in all the great seas sailed over.

This, together with the abundance of material
collected in the department of natural history and
other scientific branches, will make this voyage
one of the most important that has ever taken
place.

On March 14th, in latitude 35° 45' south, we
trawled in 1400 fathoms, and obtained a few speci-
mens at its conclusion, being about 300 miles from
Tristan d'Acunha. Course was altered, and we stood
north for Ascension Island, distant 1700 miles.
Having a favourable breeze, we daily made good pro-
gress. On March 18th we sounded in 1890 fathoms,
temperature 36*8°, and reached the south-east trades,
which blew with unbroken regularity ; not even for-
saking us as we occasionally stopped to sound and
trawl. However, as we ran farther north, the breeze
got lighter, and each day saw the barometer rising,
and clear, bright weather greeted us as we entered
and passed through the tropical regions. V'e sounded
every 200 miles on the course, the depths varying
from 2900 to 1400 fathoms.

: ■!!

376

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CITALLENGEB.

On March 27th the soh'tary island of Ascension
was in sight, rising alone in the midst of the
vast Atlantic. When about eight miles distant,
we sounded and dredged in 425 fathoms, getting
a good supply of mud, echini, coral, &c. A heavy
squall of rain set in, which detained us for a sliort
time ; after which we proceeded towards the land,
and later in the day came to anchor off" the soutli
or lee side of the island. The island as seen from
the ship has a barren aspect, although warmed by
the light colour of the sand. It was taken possession
of by the British in 1815, and is about nine miles
in length from east to west, and five or six miles
from north to south.

The surface of the land consists of ridges of naked
rock, hills of clinkers and cinders, and plains of
ashes, dust, and lava. Just abreast of the anchorage
is a somewhat level, cleared space, where are situated
the buildings used as stores and workshops, a small
fort, a pretty little church, and the hospitals. Bar-
racks and scattered residences of the naval officials
complete the group. The garrison is at present
under the command of Captain J. W. East, R.N. ;
man-of-war routine and discipline are carried out in
every department as if on board ship ; the island
is under the direction of the Admiralty, and used
as a depot for stores for vessels employed on this
part of the West African Station. The hills of
Ascension are very numerous. The most elevated

THE GREEN MOUNTAIN.

377

rejoices in the name of the Green Mountain, from
tlie h'ght hue of the verdure at its summit, where
there are excellent gardens producing many varieties
of vegetahles and fruits. It is situated nearly in the
centre of the island, and is about 2800 feet high,
rising amidst waste and desolation ; for around is
to be found neither verdure, shade, nor shelter, but
one entire field of lava. Over this rough material
n road has been made for the six miles leading
to the summit. The lofty ridge of this mountain
arrests the watery vapours that would pass it, and
supplies the settlement with water. Numerous tanks
on its side are so situated as to secure every drop of
that most essential element. Occasionally the resi-
dents run very short, when the distilling apjm-
ratus has to be brought into requisition. When
about 2250 feet up, the Mountain House is reached,
where refreshments are to be obtained ; and quite
near at hand are the Convalescent Hospital and
numerous cottage residences, from which capital
views of the island are to be obtained. In various
directions are seen craters of extinct volcanoes, vary-
ing from 100 to 300 and 400 feet in height. Oue
of these, more terrific and rugged than the rest in
appearance, is named the Devil's Riding Ground ;
it is an elevated mound about half a mile in cir-
cumference, with a road winding round it reaching
to the top, closed in at the sides by a ridge of lava ;
and quite near at hand is " Wide-awake Fair," a

378

CBUISE OF II.M.S. CHALLENGER.

rough stony plateau, where thousands of sea-birdK
land for breeding during the season.

On the whole, the climate of Ascension may be
regarded as very healthy, as it is situated in the
<lirect track of the south-east trade-wind, having a
particularly dry soil — nothing like swamp or marsh ;
and from the absence of all vegetation there is
nothing to taint the air or to produce impurity.

Fever has occasionally been imported here from
the pestiferous coast of Africa, but even that now
appears to be a thing of the past. The coast being
comparatively healthy, and the vessels not being kept
so long on the station, we rarely hear of those dread-
ful epidemics which formerly made such havoc.

Ascension is famed for its excellent turtle, at one
time considered the support of the island, the flesh
being termed island beef. Large ponds are con-
structed for keeping the fish.

During the season, from December to June, men
are employed along the sandy beach watching for tlie
full-grown females to land for the purpose of laying
their eggs. They crawl up the sandy beaches, and
make a large hole by scooping the sand up with their
flippers ; having deposited their eggs in it, and care-
fully filled in the hole again, they prepare for their
retreat to the water, but are intercepted by the
watchers, who speedily turn them on their backs. At
daylight they are taken to the inclosed ponds. Some
of those captured weigh as much as seven cwt. They

LEAVE ASCENSION.

879

lay from seventy ^^ f'iglity ep'gs at a time, and repeat
this operation two or three times in a season. The
e<j:gs are an inch and a half in diameter, and covered
with a soft semi-calcareous shell.

A week was spent very pleasantly at Ascension,
Captain East, R.N., and the officers of the island
under his command doing their utmost to make our
stay amongst them agreeable. However, after com-
pleting with stores, there was nothing further to
detain us ; so on the morning of April 3rd we pro-
ceeded on our voyage, and, when in the offing,
remained a few hours, swinging ship, both for azi-
muth and magnetic corrections. On its conclusion a
course was shaped north for the Cape de Yeide
Islands, distant some 1800 miles.

Sounding and trawling were frequent on our course
over an average depth of 2000 fatlioms; crossing
the Equator on the 7th April, for the sixth time.
Previous to this, in latitude 4° 10' south, we lost the
south-east trade-wind, and for more than a week
afterwards we were steaming through a tedious and
depressing region of calms and squalls of rain off the
African coast. Its effect on the health and spirits of
us all was most enervating; the oppressive and damp
heat made it one of the most unpleasant parts of the
cruise ; calms and head-winds accompanied us each
day. At length the island of Santiago was in sight,
and early on the morning of the 16th April we
anchored off the town of Praya. From what could

380

CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER

"■>'

be seen from the vessel, it is altered but little in
appearance since last we were here (Augu«t 1873).
After obtaining a few fresh supplies, we left the
same evening for St. Vincent, which was sighted the
next morning, and later in the day anchored off Porto
Grande, Here a week was spent, completing stores
anr* filling up with coal. A busy shipping- trade
appears to be carried on ; for numbers of mail
steamers and traders make this a port of call for
filling with coal, before shaping course to distant
lands. The harbour is safe and convenient, but
the scattered houses comprising the town, backed up
vrith high volcanic rock, are dismal and uninteres'ing.

; !

ANCHOR IN VIGO BAY.

381

,''l

CHAPTER XX.

Homeward Bound.

Leave St. Vincent— Head-wimls and disagreeable weather— Sight the
coast of Spain — Anchor in Vi^'o Bay— The city— Channel fleet —
Leave for England — Off Cape Finisterro — Favourable run across
the Bay of Biscay — The English Channel— The coast of England
— Anchor at Spithoad (Portsmouth) — Arrive at Shcerness — Retro-
spect — Pay off at Chatham— Parting— At home — The end.

On the 26th April we left under sail, homeward
bound. When well clear from the land, we picked
up the trades, and ran on merrily through the
Tropics towards the Azores, full of the hope of
speedily seeing the coast of England. But we were
too sanguine ; for after meeting with strong and
adverse winds, our coal was soon consumed, and we
were compelled eventually to run into Vigo for a
fresh supply. The coast of Spain was sighted on the
morning of the 20th May, and soon after we had ex-
changed the rolling, turbulent sea for the quiet and
placid waters of the Buy of Vigo, which sweeps inland
for more than 20 miles. We anchored off the prettily
situated town, which is built on the side of a hill
overlooking the broad expanse of water, where at
the time of our visit some half-dozen ironclads be-
longing to the Channel squadron were at anchor,

i I

II I' j:

382

CRUISE OF H.M.S, CnALLFNGER.

forming the centre of a scene Oriental in its wealth
of palms, orange groves, flowers, and orchards.
Just time enough was allowed for a scamper on shore,
through the narrow, steep, and winding streets of
the town, and only a glimpse could be had of its old
walls and gates, its churches and quaint-looking
houses, of all shapes, sizes, and colours, in white, red,
or green, according to the taste of the owners. All
this, with a charming bright and sunny sky, and
the pretty and picturesque dress of the peasants,
made up a picture delightful to the artist as well as
the ordinary observer.

By midnight sufficient coal had been taken in, and
early the next day we were again at sea. The weather
was still squally and unpleasant, yet we managed to
get round Cape Finisterre ; and now, with the wind
somewhat fairer, a capital run was made across the
dreaded Bay of Biscay. The evening of the 28 rd,
the bright light on Cape Ushant was seen ; and the
next morning, amidst haze and fog, we had our first
sight of the English coast, as we passed up Channel,
amidst a very maze of shipping outward and home-
ward bound.

Onward we go, sighting the old familiar head-
lands and landmarks — the Eddystone, the Start, the
white cliffs at Portland and St. Alban's Head — until
at last the Needles are in sight. After a few hours'
steaming through the Solent, we reach Spithead
(Portsmouth) ; and late on the evening of the 24th

AltBIVE AT . FIEERNESS,

383

May we anchor in English waters, after an absence
of three years and a half.

A few days more, and we are at Sheerness and
Chatham, amidst all the bustle and excitement at-
tendant on returning stores and paying oif.

Thus the cruise has been successfully accomplished,
and the intentions of the expedition happily achieved.
That it will exalt our national reputation to a very
considerable extent, in one of the most popular
branches of the service, cannot for a moment Ije
doubted.* The completion of surveys; the success
of soundings ; configuration of the depths of the
great ocean, with its nature and temperatures, and
the composition of its bottom, have all been inves-
tigated and carried out by the hydrographic staff ;
and Protessor Thomson and his talented assistants
may well be complimented on their labours, which
have contributed such an abundance of material to
the various departments of natural history and the
other scientific branches under their direction.

By-and-by, when all these subjects shall have been
investigated, and opinions formed from the nu-
merous and valuable collections sent home from time
to time, then — and only then — will a true idea be
obtained of the activity and research of each member
of the expedition during the course of the voyage.

* The Geographical Congress held at Paris, August 1875, awarded
to the memliers of the Cf "'nger Expedition a first class medal as a
token of admiration for ti.^ work done by them in the cause of science.

884

GBUJSE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER.

Doubtless we shall be told of wondrous facts
wliich will read like fairy tales ; for previously uo
sounding-line had ever traversed the great oceans,
or mapped out their figure We now know that
there are laws which govern the geographical dis-
tribution of marine plants and animals, as well
as those we are familiar with on the earth's sur-
face : of the myriads of curious creatures, orga-
nised with delicacy and bernty, existing in these
previously unsounded depths, creatures with num-
berless eyes, and others without any ; starfish, grow-
ing on long and slender stalks ; of beautiful phos-
phorescent avenues of vegetation ; fish of all hues,
blue and geld, striped and banded, in all colours and
sizes, from the tiniest infusoria to the huge whale.

It is impossible at present to foresee or estimate
the vast Jimount of information that will result from
tliis the greatest scientific expedition that ever sailed
from any shore.

The last day has come (June 12th), when all these
close associations will be severed ; and each one of the
Challenger s crew goes his own way, to seek relaxation
and pleasure amongst home scenes and friends near
and dear to him.

A last shake of the hand, with " Good luck and
good-bye !" and so now, to you, my reader, I say
farewell.

APPENDIX.

385

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Wednesday, Jan. 5
Saturday, Jan. 8
Monday, Jan. 10
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X

CATALOGUE

BELFORD BROS' PUBLICATIONS.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BOOKS^

FUBUSnD ST

BELFORD BROTHERS.

1 1 Colborne Street, Toronto.

A.NOKETILL, (W. R.)— The Adventures of Mick Oalllghln,

M.P., by W. R. Ancketill — Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, 75c., Paper, 50o.

" It is difficult to characterize this little work. It is apparently a pseudo-biographjr
of a young Irishman whose tendencies are healthy and not at all as rollicking as those
of his teachers. Father McQuade is a glorious old character of the true Irish type-
such a man as is dear to every one, whatever his nationality is. Hie mixture of piety,
pipes, 'bacco, and Bacchus generally is very ' taking ' The humour running through
every page and line of the book has a smack of freshness and relish which it is hard to
get in these days from many books of so-called professional humorists. In ' Mick
Callighin ' we have the real virgin humour of the soil. Would there were more
of it ! "—Detroit Free Press,

" The author is apparently a !^ilesian ' to the manner bom,' his rendition of the
brogue being superior to that generally met with in books of this class. * ♦ The
humour is so rich and the descriptive power of the author so forcible, that the reader
will not be likely to lay the work down until he has Anished it." — Toronto Mail.

BILLINGS (Josh)— Billings' Akninarsfor 1876-77. Illus-

trated. Demy 8vo. ; Paper Covers, 1 5c.

""As usual, the ' Alminax ' is brimful of fun, and contains many excellent sayings. S
—St. Mary's Argus.

" The ' Alminax * is full of good humour and philosophy." — Colli n^wood Bulletin.

" Josh jocosely jostles jests and wisdom together, and spells as industriously ba
as is his wont." — Guelph Herald.

BLAOK, (Wm.)— Madcap Violet, by Wm. Black, author of the
" A Princess of Thule," " Three Feathers," &c. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth,
$1.25, Paper Covers, 75c.

" Madcap Violet has already been variously appreciated, especially as regards the
character of the heroine. * * ' Madcap Violet' is eminently readable throughout. Vio-
let is a delightAil person, even when she pretends to be dead, and her character,
whether inconsistent or not, is at least interesting as a study." — Londtn, £»£., Pah
Mall Budget.

C/3

ll.LUST.iAltD CAIALUUL'K OF BOOKS,

"There are as lovely landscapes in * Nfarlrap Violet,' as pleesome a freshness in
the descriptions of animate and inanimate nature, as hearty an appreciation of beauty,
as high a standard of goodness as in the best of his earlier books." — StatuiarJ.

" Will Mr. Black tell us by what art it is that he makes his men and women so
life-like, and instinct with so lovable a kind of life, so sweet and companionable ?"—
Examiner.

"The book is in raany respects the best Mr. Black has written." — Scotsman.

OARLETON (Will)— Farm Legends. By Will Carleton,
author of " Farm Ballads," etc., etc. Illustrated. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth,
f l.OO, Gilt edges, $1.25, Full Morocco, $4.00.

" The paper, print, binding, and illustrations are as pretty as could be turned out
in English or American cities. • * • The ballads are charming— full of the atmos*

Shere of home and country life, and human thoughts and affections." — Toronto Daily
fail.

" We have every confidence in recommending ' Farm Legends.' " — Guelph Hernia.

" Mr. Carleton's work is honest and faithful and graphic," — Independent^ N. Y,

" There is about the author's style a quaint humour, which renders the most com-
monplace subjects interesting when touched by his pen." — Brooklyn Union.

" The poet who writes the ballads of a nation need not care who makes theii laws.
Carleton is one of the few ) alladists who have gotten down into the hearts of the common

Eeople of America. He is enshrined in their affections more, perhaps, than any other
allad writer in this country." — Syracuse Courier.

"The moral, as well as the influence of the ' Legends ' will be most salutary.
The ' Ballads ' have proved themselves so, and in ' holding the mirror up to nature '
in farm life, they have rubbed the rough corners off many points of rural life, and have
corrected many social errors and mistakes." — Toronto Journal of EducaticM.

" There is a great deal of human nature of the truest kind in Carleton's poems,
as they well illustrate the frailties and inconsistencies of human nature, its stern virtues
and its greatest failings." — St. John Gliibe.

CHAMBERS (Julius)— A Mad World, by An Amateur Lunatic
(Julius Chaubers). Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, $1.00, Paper Covers, 75c.

" This book, which has its origin in an idea similar to that of 'The Amateur
Casual,' carried out to a greater extent and in a much more startling fashion, gives an
account of the visit of Mr. Julius Chambers, correspondent of a leading New York
journal, to a private Lunatic Asylum in that city, he having procured his own incarcer-
ation, remained there a fortnight, and t.iken notes of all that he sa « ^^.nd heard during
that time. The scheme was cleverly contrived and admirably carried out, and Mr.
Chambers gives a very dramatic account of the whole affair. * * — but his account of
the game of cards, in which Frisco played casino, the Senator poker, Thaddeus euchre,
and ne himself whist— the latter game being the one which the party had been supposed
to sit down to— is indeed a strange exhibition of the vagaries of mad mortality. * • •
The close of his little drama, when he obliges Drs. Baldric and Quotidian to produce
him in court, and so thoroughly exposes their disgraceful proceedings, is given with
great spirit ; indeed the whole is capitally told, and it is impossible to read it without
feelinc roi>siHp'"'.i" -Hmiration fur thepluck and public spirit of the writer." — Tht
Sperftter, LtmdoH^ England.

OARTWRIGHT, (0. E.)— The life and Letters of the Hon.
Richard Oartwright, edited by the Rev. C. E. Cartwrioht.
Crown 8vo. ; Cloth 75c.

"It contains an abridged report of a sermon preached soon after Mr. Cart«
Wright's death, by the late Bishop of Toronto, in which the career of the subjeofc of
the work is sketched in an interesting manner. The book contains a considaruble
•moant of valuable information rtparding political aflairs in Mr. Cartv right's time.
It should tiioct with an extcnsiyi^ circulation. " — Kinytton Xcicj.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BOOKS.

DAVIN, (N. P.)— The Pair Grit, by Nicholas Flood Davih,
author of " The Earl of Beaconsfield," etc., etc. Crown 8vo. ; Paper,
25 cents.

" Mr. Dayin is to be congratulated on the posMBsion of the rich vein of hnmour
developed in the ' Fair Grit,' which appears at a time that will leoore to it plenty
of readers," — St. John Tekgraph.

" The book contains many clever hits at the expense of the Grits, and bears
evidence of having been written by one well acquainted with the current political
events of the Dominion." — London Herald.

" The Farce deals with topics that are peculiarly Canadian, and political, and
Mr. Davin has exhibited considerable ability in his treatment of the various promi-
nent episodes in the lives of our present rulers. It is well worth perusal, and
deserves an extensive circulation." — Toronto Leader.

" The Olobe and Mail and some of our leading politicians receive some hard
hits. * * It is written in a good vein, and will doubtless have a large sale among
those weU posted in politics." — Bran^ord Expositor.

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DAVIN, (N. P.)— The Earl of Beaconsfleld, by Nicholas Flood
Davin, author of " The Fair Grit," etc., etc. Crown Svo. ; Paper
Covers 25c.

" Mr. Davin has, we think, succeeded in supplying the public with what will
bt welcomed as a valuable addition to our literature. " — Stratford Weekly.

" This is a brilliantly written account of the life of Mr. D'lsraeli from the
jen of Mr. Davin, who has enjoyed the pleasure of personal observation of him
or four years in the English House of Commons." — Ooderich Star.

" This a clever and complete sketch of D'Israeli's career, from the standpoint^
of course, of an ardent admirer of the author of Lothair." — London Advertiser.

PLEMING (M. A.)— Kate Danton, by May Agnes Fleming,
author of " Norine's Revenge," ** A Mad Marriage," etc., etc. Crown
Svo. ; Cloth, $1.00, F&])er Covers, 75c.

" Mrs. Fleming's stories are growing more and more popular every day. (Their
delineations of character, life-like conversations, Hashes of wit, constantly varying
scenes, and deeply interesting plots, combine to place their author in the very first
rank of modem novelists."

PLEMING (M. A.)— Norine's Rovengt. by May Agnes Fleming,
author of " Kate Danton," &c., Ac. Crown Svo. ; Cloth $1.00,
Paper Covers, 75c.

" A very interesting story." — The Toronto Irish Canadian.

'* This story is an intensely interesting one." — IlamiUon Spectator.

" Mrs. Fleming never forgets that she is a lady, nnd she has given us a very
Interesting and a fairly clever iiory."-' Montreal UeraUi.

" Noriae's Revenge ' is the work of a Canadian authoress, a daughter of New
Brunswick. We were interested to the extent of not l:iyiiig aside the book until
we had tinished it — a pruceas whii;h Lasted us through two cigars. We believe all
those who peruse if, will he equally interested. Thn language is simple, natural
and coirecc ; much of the dialuguu is lively." — Monlrtal Can. II. News.

^ " ' Norine's Revenge ' is the name of the last publisiied and best of May Agnes
Fleming's novels. The story tieuninf^H interesting in the very tirntpage, and never
flags for a moment until tha <lomluHion. The characters are well drawn, and the
authnristobe congratulitlMOft the product of her pen." — St. John Daily TeU*
graph. "mi^m

. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BOOKS.

GRANT (Rev. G. M.)— Ocean to Ocean, by Rev. George M.
Grant. New and revised edition, with map and nuii...rou8 illustra-
tions. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, $1.50, Paper Cover, $1 25.

" This is, by the universal acknowledgement of press and public, the most cun

Elete work on the ' Great Lone Land ' of Britiifti North America, which has evi .
een published. The present edition has been thoroughly revised and correctea
by the author, and a new chapter has been added, which brings down to the latest
moment the official and other information bearing upon the vast territory so

fraphically and fully treated of. The illustrations nave all been newly executed,
t is a book of rare value.

GAY (F. D.)— The Prince of Wales in In !ia, by F. Drew Gay.

Profusely illustrated. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, gold and black, $1.50,
Paper, $1.00.

" A lasting memorial of an interesting journey."— i7at7y Telegraph.

" Will no doubt find an extensive public, and be read by them with interest."
— Nonconforrmt.

" Written in a lively and unpretentious style, and sparkling heie and there
with genuine humour, the book is a decidedly attractive one." — Leeds Mercury.

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GUTHRIE (D. K. &0. J.)— Autobiography and Memoir of
Thomas Guthrie, D.D., by his sons the Rev. D. K. Guthrie, M.
A., and C. J. Guthbib, M.A. 1 vol. Demy 8vo. with steel portrait ;
Cloth, $2.50, Half Calf, $4.00, Full Morocco, $6.00.

" One of the most interesting books recantly published." — Spectator.

" Of great interest, even as a mere piece of reading, and of no small value as
a contribution to Scotoh history." — Scotsman.

" Both interest and amusement will be found in this picture of a stirring time
in which an eager, busy nature played its \ftai."— Saturday Revinw.

GARNEAU (F. H.)— History of Canada from the time of its

discovery till the union of 1840-41. Translated from " L'Histore du
Canada," of F. X. Garneau, £sq., and accompanied with illustrative
notes, by A ndrew Bell. Third edition, revised, in two volumes.
Demy Svo. ; Cloth, $4.00 set

The press acknowledge that this is the best History of Canada published.

GLADSTONE (W. E.)— Essajrs on Macleod and Macaulay,

by the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone. Deiuy Svo. ; Paper Covers, 2Bc.

" Gladstone's remarks are of a peculiar interest to the student of history."—-
Toronto Olobe.

" Mr. Gladstone's keen critical character, is well exemplified in both essays,
which the Canadian public will, no doubt, avidity seize upon." — Toronto JiaU,

" Mr. Gladstone's pen produces nothing inferior."— /fo^aa Herald.

History of the Grange in Oanada, with hints on the manage-
ment of Subordinate Granges, rules for Patrons' Co-operative Aasocia-
tions, list of Masters and l^retaries of Ij|M^on, Division, and Sub-
ordinate Granges, by Members of the Do^^^ Orange. Demy 8to ;
Paper Oovers, *i5o. ^^V

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF liOOK8.

▼o:

HAMILTON (J. 0.)— The Prairie Province, By J. C. Hamilton,
M.A., L.L. B. Sketches of travel from Lake Ontario to Lake Win-
nipeg?, and an account of the geographical j)08ition, civil institutions,
climate, inhabitants, productions, trade and resources of the Rod
River Valley, with maps of the North-west and Manitoba, Plan of
Winnipeg, view of Fort Garry, and other illustrations. Crown 8vo. ;
Paper, $L00, Cloth, 81.25, Cloth, gilt edges, ^l.nO.

The book contains a new map of Manitoba and the Noith-wcst, and of tho
Dawson Route, expressly drawn and engraved for this work. The new settlo-
mcnts, reserves ana railway routes, and District of Keewatin, are shown on the
map.

" This pleasant gossiping book, which carries one on without efifort or fatijjue,
through an agreeable narrative of a trip through the Red River country, comes in
very appropriately in this hot weather, when dry reading is almost impossiUle for
most people." — Perth Expositor.

" The descriptive element is, of course, very prominent, and is both graphical
and interesting, while the historical and statistics! information will he of great
use to those who have not had access to other sources of information." — Toronto
nohe.

" It is a book that we can cheerfully recommend to those who desire to post
tnemselves before coming here to try their fortunes, as well as to those wlio are
desirous for other reasons of knowing something about tliis portion of the Domin-
ion." — Winnipeg (Manitoba Standard.)

"Well and ably written."— 6'<ra</brd //cm W.

"This is one of the most interesting of the l. oks <hal have been written on
the subject of which it treats." — Montreal Oazetie.

"Within the limits of 259 pages, we have an oio • ., jmlia 'f knowledge on
all points relating to the Northwest." — Toronto Isew jJoniinion Wtekly.

"We can cordially recommend this work, licciuse it oontains, in a concise
form, a graphic und interesting account of the scenery resources, and present
condition of Manitoba, and adjacent country, such as is to be found no where else.
It is by no means dry and heavy, as such books are apt to be. "—Canadian Monthly.

" We know of no work which oontains •"> much useful information in so small
a space. Our public men and jmhiic wr-ters -in Hmi m it aV. the data tliey neeil
towards an accurate comprehension of che present jxisition of Manitoba, while for
••migration purposes, we should fauey, that i cheap edition would materially
facilitate the task of our agents abroad."— Canarf/aw lUnfttrntnl News.

HARLAND (M.)— Oommon Sonse in the Household, by

Marion Harland, author of " My Little Love," " Alone," " Hi<lden
Path," " Nemesis," etc. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, $1.00, Boards, T.'ic.

" Such a directory will be a great helj) to one who goes to the book for aid in
preparing a pleasant and savoury meal without much experience in cooking. The
language is so simple, and the directions so plain, that a reasonably intelligent
cook might avail herself of it to vary her manner of preparing even ordinary
dishes. The introduction to the book should be priuteil as a tract and put in every
house. " — Harper^ a Monthly.

" In the hands of the author, whose name is well known in another depart-
ment of literature, the subject has been treated with thoroughness and skill, show-
ing that a little common sense may bo as successful in «-on(;oction of a toothsome
viand as in the composition of a romance." — N. Y. Daihj Trihime.

" Any one who contributes to the general stock of knowledge in the culinary
art is a puolic benefactor. . . A glance over the list shows that they aie

suitable to the every-day life of those of the largo oi of moderate means, who wish
to eat well in order that they may live wclL A cookery book is indispensable in
every household, and those in want of one could not do better than get ' Common
Sense.' "—TorotUo Nation.

1LLU8TPATED CATALOOUE OP BOOKS.

. We JtmntnmnA this book u the pUineit and most limple of iti kind
that we hftTe erer eeen."— A. John Olobe.

" This book gives fall and common sense directions for cooking ererythinff
that can possibly come within the range of ordinary human necessity, and much
more."— 7V>ron<o Chriatian Guardian.

"... Who woold be without such a book. "— VieUma (B. C. ) Standard.

HARLAND (M.)— My Little Love, by Marion Harlavd, aathor
of " Alone," " Nemesis," " Common Sense in the Household," etc.
Cloth, $1.00, Paper Cover, 75c.

"The authoress of this pleasine novel is so well known, that anything from
her pen will be read with avidity. Her new story is well written, the plot simple,
yet perfect, and the manner in which it has been brought out by Messrs. Bellord
Bros., is equal to the high reputation of thu firm." — Ottatoa Citizen.

" This work is written in the easy flowing style for which the author has been
celebrated. If it is not pretentious, it is at least engaging, and will afford many a

f)leasant hour's reading to those who prefer the trifles to the more solid things of
lie."— London Free Press.

" Marion Harland's works are all well worth reading, and " My Little Love,'|
is ohe of the best we have seen."— iS'<ra(/br(( Beacon.

"Marion Uarland in all her writings, has a particularly fascinating and
pleasing style, and her latest production is no exception to the rule." — Toronto
Natiotial.

" Marion Harland has acquired a well merited reputation in being the author
of many good books, which, while partaking of the nature of fiction, at the same
time have thrown around them a huo of virtue that makes some of the characters
stand pre-eminently high as models for any person to imitate. " My Little Love "
is dedicated by the author " To the memory of the sweetest soul that ever looked
with human eyes." Of absorbing interest, this book will find its way to the hands
of many of those who appreciate this class oi literature, and will be assigned a
place in many libraries.' — Ouelph Mercury,

HALL (DR. W.W.)— Dyspepsia and its kindred diseases,

by W. W. Hall, M.D., author of " Health by Good Living," " How
to Live Long," " Health at Home," etc. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, fl.OO.

This ii the last work of the late Dr. Hall, and it is admitted, by professional
judges, to be a very valuable book. It gives, in concise form, an account of how
to cure, prevent, and treat oneself, not alone for Dyspepsia, but a great many
o\<her diseases, which the Doctor claims, arise from the same cause as thia dis-
ease. This work should be in every house in the country.

HALL (W. W.)— How to Live Long, by Dr. W. W. Hall,
author of " Dyspepsia," " Health at Home," editor of " Hall's
Journal of Health," etc. Crowr. 8vo. ; Cloth, fl.OO. Paper, 75o.

" ... After a careful perusal oT the work which has been laid before us

we have no hesitation in expressing cur approval of its contents." — Ouelph Herald.

-^' "The purpose of this useful book is tc communicate in a popular and easily

understood form some generally acceptt>d pnnciples, and their application to the

E reservation of health. The author's metnod is not that of a laboured treatise,
ut rather of a multitude of short, tersely expressed hints upon almost every con*
ceirable subject bearing upon physical and mental health, the home, domestic
habits, and in short whatever bean upon the mens rasina in corpert sano ; which
one desires to realize but not everyone knows how. The book is full of sonnd
common sense and valuable information, clothed in acceptable shape. A complete
index enables the reader to consult the volume upon any topic with facility. "—
Toronto Daily Mail.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOOUE OF BOOKS.

•' This is a useful yet unique medical book, written in a aoinowhac • proverbial
philosf)[)iiifar style, inculcating, l)y ' niimorous examples,' that ' Fun is better
than Physic' The practical and proverbial sentences iu Dlie book uumber 1,408
and are admirable." —Toronto Journal of Education.

HARTS :BRET.)— Gabrisi Oonroy, by Bret Hartb. Crown
8v(j. ; Cloth, $1.25, Paper Covers, 750.

" 'Gabriel <-onroy ' is written in the author's most original vein, and altotjether
the story has [iroved to be one of Bret Harte's mastkrpikces." — Kendal Mercury.

"Bret Hartes novel introduces many truly tine descriptive passages and
hfiart-thrilling incidents. The writer's vivid power as a poet has long been recog-
nized, not only in America, but in this country, and ' (iabriel Conroy ' will we ven-
ture to think, add i^reatly to his fame, and to a large extent increase the number
of his admirers." — Ifisirir/i C/ironirff.

" . . We have found at last ^/te American r.ovQl."- Canadian Illustrated
News.

" . . The Kec(md installment is even slron^'cr than the first, ju,<t!/i/ing all
that wax looked for.' — Louisinlle Courier Journnl.

" Amoiii,' tliose authors who 0(jmbine humour with variety of other gifts, the
most dmspicuous is Bret Harte. His 8ul)tility of ethical insight, his depth
nf sen.imcnt, his power of solid characterization, and his pathetic and tragic
force are as evident r,s ius broad preceptions of the ludicrous side of things. In
his ( alifornia stories, as in some of his poems, he details ' the soul of goodness in
things evil,' and represents the exact circuiiLstauces in which ruffians and profli-
gates are compelled to feel that they havu liumau hearts and spiritual natures.
Hj is original, not only in the ordinary sense of the word, but in the sense of dis-
covering a new domain of literature, and of colonizing it by the creatures of his
own brain. Perhaps the immense popularity of some of his humorous poems, such
as 'The llcatheu Chiuee,' has not been favourable to a full recognition of his
graver qualities of heart and imagination." — Fir«t Century qf the Republic.

HOWARD {B. W)— One Summer, by Blanche Willis Howard.

IGino. ; Cloth, red edges. $1.00, Boards 75c., uniform with ''Their
Wedding Journey," " A Chance Acqtiaintance," and second edition of
* Helen's Babies."

" The story is delightfully written." — Owen Sound Times.

" A charmingly amusing, interesting and exciting romance." — Barrie Advance.

" It ia just the thing for quiet, meditative reading on Sunday afternoon, when
the reader's surroundings bear the air of silent repose." — Waterloo Observer.

" If all, or at least a fair proportion of the novels that are published each
year, were as good as 'One Summer,' reading them might become instructive,
and reviewing them a pleasure. ' One Summer ' contains thoughtful writings,
some humour, and not a little ingenuity The ccmversations in 'One Summer,'
are sensilde, spirited, and witty ."-Belford' o Monthly Magazine.

HOWELLS (W. D.) -Their Wedding Journey, by W. D.

HowELLS, author of "• A Chance Acquaintance," etc. TJniform with
** One SuniiiKir," and second edition of " Helen's Babies." Cloth,
$1.00, Boiuds, 75c.

" Their Wedding Journey " is a novel, describing in beautiful language Cana-
«lian Scenery from Niagara to Quebec.

' ' The story is well told, the incidents on the way are delicately and neatly
sketched, and the plan of the story is clever and pitjuant." — St. John Watchman.

" Mr. Mowells knows how to describe what he.iees, so that he combines gen-
uine amusement with valuable information." — Mount Forest Examiner,

I Illustrated

Specimen Illustration in "The Old Lieutknant and His Son."

;( . •

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BC»OKS.

HELEN'S BABIES. With some account of their ways, innocent,
crafty, angelic, impish, witcliing, and repulsive. Also a |>artial record
of their actions during ten days of their existence. By Their Latest
Victim. Illustrated. 12mo., Cloth, Gold, 75 cents; Paper Cover
50 cents.

" It is full of richness." — Citizeti, Ottawa.

" Helen's Babies is one of the most Comical books we have seen for some
time. " — PertA Expositor

" It is as fresh as its life-like. It is overflowing with good nature and humour."
—Globe, St. John.

" Don't fail to read it. It will wonderfully aid digestion and to the numerous
dyspeptics in our midst, we would say, chase away that dire incubus, indigestion, by
reading Helen's Babies." — Truro Sun.

" We confidentially recommend the work to ou*- '^aders, knowing that all who
read it will derive a great deal of pleasure from it. " — Port Hope Times.

" F-"' n's iiabies is a charming tale." — Observer, Toronto.

•* : e thing is exceedingly well told, and the work is one intensely interesting to
tli.!:.. i k. youngsters of their own, or intending to have them." — Courier, Perth.

his ;t-'''^ant little volume should be read by all. The blues will then be
effectually bau. .. \ from the most lugubrious desponder. " — Colonial Standard, Pirfon.

" Budge and Toddie count their admirers by the thousands. It is one of the
brightest publications we know of, and certainly everybody should buy and read it."
— Chronicle, Halifax.

" ' Helen's Babies ' — The most amusing bit of read'ng we have seen for some
time, is, the little volume with this title, just issued in gorgeous panoply of red and
gold, by Messrs. Belford Bros., Toronto." — Beacon, Stratford.

. '

HOLMES, (MRS.)— Edith Lyle, by Mrs. Mary J. Holmes,
author of " Lena Rivers," " Darkness and Dnylight," <fec. Crown
8vo., Cloth, $L00 ; Paper Cover, 75 cents. Third Edition.

" Mrs. Holmes has the faculty of writing a very entertaining book, and all her
novels meet with a ready sale. Edith Lyle is one of her best stories, and in us
present form it is exceedingly attractive." —IVatchntan, St. John,

" The style is, as usual, very pleasant and pure, and as with the rest of her
works, the book is characterized by a good moral tone throughout." — Toronto
Chri^tiai Guardian.

" We are inclined to place Mrs. Holmes' last production on a higher rank than
her previous works." — Toronto Telegram.

'• We commend this last production to our readers." — Oxford Tribune, In^ersoU.

" In Edith Lyle, Mrs. Holmes has not lost, but added to the reputation she has
acquired of being a pleasant and interesting writer of fiction. One whose bocks will
amuse many a weary traveller, and wile away the tedious hours that pass so sternly
to the 'in\3.\\i\,''— Expositor, Perth.

•' Almost anyone picking up Eklith Lyle will read it without stopping."- Hali-
fax Chronicle.

" The value of this work is peculiarly adapted to those who love a novel for its
being a Novel." — Brockiilk Recorder.

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novel for its

The Princess soon found out the Pearl Fountain, and saw the Fairy and the Wren
playing together "—/'<i^^ 16.

Specimen Illustration in "The Pearl^ Fountain."

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BOOKS.

HOWELLS (W. D.)— A Ohance Acquaintance, by W. D.

HowELLS, author of " Their W«ilding Journey." Uniform with
" One Summer," and second edition of '* Helen's Babies." Cloth,
$1.00, Boards, 75c.

" The writings of William D. Howells are masterpieces of literary workman-
ship, resembling the products of those cunning artiricera who add one or two
thousand per cent, to the value of their raw material by their incomparable way
of working it up. What they are as artizans, he is as artist. His faculties and
emotions are in exquisite harmony with each other, and unite to produce due effect
of beauty and grace in the singular felicity of his style. He has humour in abun-
dance, but it is so thoroughly blended with his observation, fancy, imagination,
taste, and good sense, that it seems to escape from him in light, demure, evanes-
cent flashej rather than in deliberate efforts to be funny. He has revived in some
degree the lost wit of Addison, Goldsmith, and Irving. Nobody ever ' roared '
with laughter in reading anything he ever wrote ; but few of our American
humourists have excelled him in the power to unseal, as by a magic touch, those
secret interior springs of merriment which generally solace the soul without be-
traying the happiness of the mood they create by any exterior bursts of laughter.
His 'Venetian Life,' ' Italian Journeys,' ' Suburban Sketches ; ' his novels,
entitled 'Their Wedding Journey,' 'A Chance Acquaintance,' ap'\ 'A Fore-
gone Conclusion,' all indicate the presence of this delicious humourous element,
penetrating his picturesque descriptions of scenery, as well as refined perceptions
of character and pleasing narratives of incidents ; his prose style, with its
' polished wants oi polish ' and elaborate, deliber<ate simplicity, is marked not
only by felicities of diction, but by the continual oversight of an exacting taste.
Indeed the story goes that when, as editor of The AtlaiUic Monthly, he incurred
the ire of a rejected contributor, the latter was consoled by the remark of Howells,
that he frequently rejected his own contributions when he found that they did
not satisfy his austere editorial judgment. "--ilU. P. Whipple in the First Century
qf the Republic.

The Home Cook Book, by tho Ladies of Toronto. Published for

the benefit of the Hospital for Sick Children. Crown 8vo. , Cloth,
$1.50.

This book is the joint effort of the publishers, and of a number of Toronto
ladies, with the object of adding to the funds of the Hospital for Sick Children, a
most worthy institution, depending wholly upon voluntary contributions. The
receipts contained in the book, are supplied by the ladies, and none have been
given by them except such as have stood the test of experience in their own house-
holds. Unquestionably it is one of the most valuable Cook Boeks ever published.

HISTORIOUS.— History of King WiUiam III., Prince ot

Orange, by Historicus, of Belfast, Ireland. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth,
75c., Paper Covers, 50c.

" The volume before us supplies a much felt want. Within the compass of an
ordinary book we have here a comprehensive, intelligible and well written history
of one of England's greatest kings. ' — Orange Sentinel.

*< ... The present work gives this in short compass, and will doubtless
be read by many for whom larger and more elaborate historical works would not
be so convenient." — Toronto Mail.

"... Let all such purchase this work, and be able to give a logical
reason for the pageantry of the Twelfth of July. " — Brantford Expositor.

" . . . The work is the best modern one on its subject." — St, Catharine's
News.

"... The book is well written, and of such a pleasing nature, that we
predict for it ar 'inmense sale among the Orangemen and Frotestants generally." —
London Herald.

7. D.

with

Sloth,

•kman-
)r two
le way
ies and
e effect
I abun-
nation,
evanea-
in Bome
roared '
iierican
1, those
out be-
lughter.
novels,
\. Fore-
ilement,
ceptions
ivith its
rked not
ig taste,
incurred
Howeils,
they did
iCtentury

V»ed for
Cloth,

Toronto
ildren, a
18. The
eive been
Ti house-
iiblished.

ice ot

Cloth,

bass of an
history

loubtleis
^ould not

I a logical

iharine'9

that we
IraUy."—

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BOOKS.

" The author has striveu to make this the most complete life of William III,
oxtant, and that he has succeeded, all who read tho work will be couviuced."^
Brock I'ille Enterprise,

KAVANAGH (B. & J.)— The Pearl Fountain, hv BmnoiiT &
Julia Kavanawh. Rvo. ; with 30 illustratioDB bj J, Mota Smith.
Cluth, Gold and Black, 11.60.

"A rara avis among Ixtoks fur children. . . The stories are brightly and
beautifully told, and the illustrations unique in art character." — New York Pub-
luhers' Weekly.

'* The high quality and brilliancy of the engravings in this volume, togethw
with its low retail price, will make it a favourite gift book."

LESPERANOE (JOHN)— The Bastonnais. A Tale of the
American Invasion of Canada in 1775-76, by John Le8i)ei--

ance. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, $1.00, Paper Covers, 75c.

This is a story whose main events centre around one of the most thrilling and
interesting periods of Canadian history. It is written by the editor of the Cana-
dian lUustraUd New*. an<l as it passed througli the pages of that journal from
week to w <{ek. attracted a great deal of interest. It is an admirable cuatributiuu
to our yet nasce.'it Canadian literature.

LEWIS (R.)™Liewis'8 Readings and Recitations, by Richard

Lkwis, author of " The Dominion Elocutionist," etc. Boards, 75c.,
Paper, 50c.

This work present.-, the following new features and a'ivantf ges : — Classic
standard selections. Selections from the best and iht mo.st recent productions of
living authors. Favourite readings of Vandenhi>ff, Bcllew. Mrs. Scott Siddons, and
other eminent readers. Gems from Newspapers and Periodicals. 1 he oiiginal mat-
ter will consist of Hints and Suggestions on Public Reading, th.; Culture and Manage-
ment of the Voice, Gesticulation, etc., etc. A large number of the lead. ng selections
will have Foot Notes explanatory of the manner of reading them.

LYTTON (BULWER.)~Pausanias, by the late Lord Lytton.
Crown 8vo.; Cloth, |1, 00, Paper Covers, 75c.

" To the classical reader, this work will be highly interesting ; at every turn he
meets familiar faces."— 6'ar;//<? Canadian.

" It is well worthy of peiusal." — Free Press, Ottawa,

•' It is of great interest." — Toronto Mail.

•' It bears the impress of masterly g^mm." — CoHing-iVOod Bulletme

" It is well deserving of a careful perusai.'' — Gudph Mertury.

" Lord Lytton has done well in publishing, after much hesitation, his fathers
attest work."— Toronto Nation.

" There are many scholarly hints throughout the book, and several fine transla-
tions. "--J/ow/r^fl/ Canadian Illustrated Neivs.

"The romance gives evidence that the master hand of the eminent novelist had
not failed when he wrote i» " — Drantford Expositor.

LAVELEYE (EMILE.)— Protestantism and Catholicism,

in their bearing upon the liberty and prosperity of nations. A study
of social economy, by Emile DeLaveleyb, member of the " Insti-
tute de Droit International," of the Royal Academies of Belgium,
Madrid, and Lisbon ; correspondent of the " Institut de France/'
Academy Officer of the Unirersity of France, &c. With an introduc-
tory Letter by the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone, M. ^. Crowa
8to. ; Paper Corers, 25c.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BOOKS.

•• M. Laveleye, the distinguished Belgian publicist, has recently issued a short
but vigorously written work. • • • He writes upon » subject which he has long
and carefully studied." — Toronto Globe.

MAOLEOD (REV. D)— Memoir of Norman Macleod D.D.,

Ministor of Barony Parish, Glasgow ; One of Her Majesty's Chap-
lains ; Dean of the Chapel Royal ; Dean of the Most Ancient and
most Noble Order of the Thistle, by his brother, the Rev. Donald
Macleod, B. A., one of Her Majesty's Chaplains, Editor of ••'Good
Words," &c. Complete in 1 vol.. Demy, 8vo., with Portrait; Cloth,
gold and black, $2.50 ; Half Calf, $4.00 ; Full Morocco, gilt edgei,
10.00. Ninth thousand.

The following extract is from the " Memoir" itself; it shows what Dr. Macleod
thought of such a work as the present : —

** From his journal, Oct. nth, 4.45 a. m.

"Have been reading a little of 'Brainard.' Next to the BIBLE Christian
Biography is the most profitable. In as far as it is true, it is a revelation of the livinj
God, through His living Church."

The following extract is taken from a letter of Dean Stanley's :

"He was the chief Ecclesiastic of the Scottish Church. No other man during
the last thirty years, in all spiritual ministration, so nearly filled the place of Chalmers ;
no other man has occupied so high ami important a position in guidinj: the Ecclesi-
astical movements of their country since the death of Robertson, we mi{jht almost say,
since the death of Car^'t.ircs Macleod represented Scottish Protestant-
ism more than any other single man. Under and around liim men would gather who
would gather around no one else. When he spoke it was felt to be the voice, the
best voice of Scotland."

. . . " The lesson of his life cannot but have an important bearing on the
lives of all Christians, if carefully studied. . . . It is really a handsome and ex-
ceedingly well got up octavo volume, of about 500 pages, well printed, and a crclit
to the publishers." — Ohsetver, Samia.

. . . "It contains an excellent photograph of Dr. Macleod, is unexception-
able as to binding and typography, and is issued at one-third of the cost ol ilic Eng-
lish edition." — Beacon, Stratford.

. . . " The Canadian reprint of Dr. Macleod's Memoir, has reached the fifth
edition, and the demand shows no sii^n of falling off. Ir has provkd kmf'Haticak-
LV to be the book of the srason, r.nd everyone who has perused it will learn the
fact without surprise." — G/ode, i\>ro)ito.

, , . '• We can cordially recommend the Canadian edition of the ' Memoir of
Norman Macleod, D. D.,' to our readers." — Telt^iaph, St. John.

. . . " The work is one deserving a large circulation, and^ its influence, like
that of Dr. Macleod in life, must be beneficial." — Packet, Onllia.

. . . " The mechanical part uf the work is in Belford Bros, best style, and is
certain to give satisfaction. Already five editions of the book have been exhausted in
Canada, and a sixth edition has just been issued. The inlications are, that several
more will be required to satisfy the almost uiip inilleied dcmaiul which there is for the
work." — Spectator, //ami/ton.

MAOLEOD (N.)— The Gold Thread, by the late iTorman

Macleod, D. D. Square 8vo., beautifully illustrated, Cloth, full gilt,
$1.00.

" This is one of the prettie.st, as it is one of the best, children's books in the Ian-
|uage. Wherever there are children, if our advice is taken, there will be a Gold
Thread." — Caledonia Mercury.

"It is a charming story for children, and as a holiday gift foi little folks it is
admirably suitable, being richly bound and profusely illnstrnted." — StratJ»rd Beacon.

ed a short

s haa long

d D D.,

'8 Chap-
tent and
Donald
* ■• Good
; Cloth,
It edges,

. Macleod

\S a. m.

'. Christian
the living

lan during
[Chalmers ;
le Ecclesi-
Imost say,
'rnlestant-
;alher who
voice, the

ing on the
ne and ex-
id a cre<lit

jxception-
ihc Eng-

1(1 the fifth

HATICAI.-
learn the

llcmoir of

lence, like

[if, and IS
lausted in
it several
lis for the

ORMAN

|i;ll gilt,

the lan-
■c a Gold

lolks it is
Beacon.

I .

Specimen Illustration in " The Prattler."

rMl

ILLUSTKATKD CATALOUUJi OF BOOKS.

"In this book Dr. Mucleod appears at his best as a story teller." — G/obe, .SV. JoAn.

. . . *' an 1 is (jiie of the most attractive works that can be placed in the
hands of the young, combining, as it does, a thrilling narrative, with the inculcations
of lessons that cannot be too deeply impressetl." -//«'r(//(/', Guelph.

. . *' The work is beautifully embellished with engravingi, and it is one of
the most handsomely got up books yet placed in the market by its publishers." — The
Naiioiial, TorQuto.

MACLEOD (N.)— The OM Lieutsnant and his Son, by tlie
late Norman Macleod, D.D. Illustrated, Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, $1,00,
Paper Covers, 75c.

"The work will, doubtless, in his own words 'do good to many and hann to
none.'— 2V<tf Globe, Toronto.

" As a book in the hands of youth we especially commend it."— Afercary, Quehnc.

. . . "Everybody who takes it up will be delighted with it." — Canadian
Pott, Lindsay.

"No one can fail of being benefited as well as amused by the story, and the
young rsptcially will fir.d it most delightful reading, as indeed will children of a larger
growth." — Toronto Mail.

"Those who carefully read it, must be influenced for the better." — Chrmikle^
Kentville.

MAOLBOD (N.)— The Earnest Student, by the late Noeman

Maclkod, D.D. (Jrowu 8vo. ; Cloth, $1.00, Paper, 75c.

"It is full of the most instructive materials, and breathes forth in every page an
earnest spirit of true religion." — Star, Oodtrich.

** It is a bonk that will do goinl wherever read." — Bulletin, Collingwood.

" The example of candour, assiduity, and self-consecration portrayed in these
mem )rials must strongly impress the rc-xder." — Colonial Farmer, Fredericlon N. B.

MACLEOD (N.)— Wee Davie, by the late Norman MacleoD;

D.D. Crown 8vo. ; Paper (Jovera, 16c.

" It is of thia and kindred books that our Sunday School librariea ought to be
oompooed. " — Reporter, CornivulL

"Apathetio tale, told with a heart full of sympathy."— M't^l/t/ Canadian,
Surnin,

MACLEOD (N.)— T he Starling, by the latt Norman Maclkod,
D.D. Crown 8 vo. rrofusely iliuhtrated. In pi esH, and will be ready
early in 1877.

MATHEWS (W.)— Getting on in the World, by Prof.

William Matiiewh, LL D. Crown Hvo. ; Cloth, ll.OO, Paper, 7r)c.,
Half (:;alf, $2.0(1.

" Worth any day tun tini«!H its co8t for the tenth part it contains. A book
fuller of sensible scnHe and sounder soundness we hav«t n»t seen for a long day." —
a. S. TinifH, Philadelphia.

" A book in which thorn is aluindiint matttir of great interest.'' — From Hev.
Noah Porter, D.D., LL.I),, PnHidtnl of Yale Vottene.

" U will give hoart and hope to many a struggling young man." — Rev. if. ti,
Andernon, D.J)., LL.D., i'rr«i(lenl qf iiocheitt^'r Uim^ntily, N. Y.

"What wealth of illustration be brings in fniin Knglish poets, dramaticts,
AivinoH, lawvers. and iurista I" — AWtoi'n P. Whipple, hUi; , '/c il>i>iluiji<i»h-l nilir. ^

n.T.r.nUAlKD CATALOGUE OF HOOKS.

"The road to i)r()siifrity is marked nut with a masterly hand. The volume
is repk'ti- with thought ami excclh-nt information on the ii.aiiy perpU-xing jim-
blenis tl\at arc con8t-\ntly arising in the various vocations of life. The farmer,
inerch;iiit, student, teacher, lawyer, jueacher, editor, etc., etc., will all find valu-
aMe lessons for their life-work. No one that reads the twenty-one chapters,
will lay aside the book without being benefited. Kvery man, especially every
young man, should have it. It should l>e found in every family library through'
out the whole country." — Jiev. A. Jliielgter, Ph. I)., in the " Kvatujelical MfMnen-
ger,

" There are a great number of good passages and much valuable advice in this
book." — The London Spectator.

" Every page contains a wealth of valuable i'lformation, and is brimful of
vivid biographical illustrations."— J\re«7 York Home Jourmil.

"While it enforces a truth in every line, and teaches invaluable lessons on
every page, it is in manner as absorbing and attractive as u bit of Kastern fable.''
Phikulilphia Emjuirer.

" Adorned with the graces of polit> literature, and polished to a deforce of re-
finement which adapts it tu the demands of modern taHte. . While an-
nouncing the laws of wordly pntsperity, he holds up an elevated standard of
character. His appeals are not made tu human selfishness, but to the love of
excellence." — New^ York Tribune.

" It is sound, morally and mentally. It gives no one-sided view of life ; i^
does not pander tothc lawer nature ; but it is high toned, correctly toned, through-
out. There Is an earnestness and even uloi|uence in this vcdume which makes the
author appear to speak to us from the living uage. it roads like a s])cech. There
is an electrical fire about every sentence."— tipiacopal litgi»ter, I'hihuUlphia.

MULOGK (MISS.)— Sermons Out of Church, by Mi8.s

Mu LOCK (Mrs. Craik), author of '•' John llalitax, (iuntleinen," etc.,
etc. Crown 8vo. , Cloth, $1 00, Paper, <r)c.

"This is a book that we can conscientiously r«>commcnd to our readers.
Those who have read 'John Haliiax' will recoguiso with pleasure Miss Mulock's
pleasant style in her serious moud all through these uermous. They are six in
numl>er, and arc devoted to important and suggestiv e subjects. In this age, when,
notwithstanding the death of most of the great novelists, a fresh novel apDcars
every day, it is a relief to turn to something serious, sensible, instructive and
well-written — a something that will repay i>eru»al, and not send one away weary
and disgusted. Those who have undergone the intliction of IUuel>ell ' and kin*
died rubbish will find a balm in Miss Mulock's ' ;Sermon8 Out of Church.' " —
Toronto iS'ation.

. , . These ' Sermons ' have nothing of the sermonizing style about them,
but are written in a practical, popular style. They d»'al with the many ■ blisters
of humanity ' in a kindly, loving spirit, and cannot but have a good intlueuoe on
those that read them." — The Journal 0/ Education, Toronto.

Prof.
|r. 7r>c.,

I A book
Jday."-

im Hev.

M. H.

jnaticts,

Xvitic,

MULOCK (MISS.)— The Laurel Bush, an oid-fMhioaed

love story, by Miss Mulock (Mrs. Craik), ftiillK)r of "John Halifax,
Gentloinan," "Sermons Out of Church," etc. Demy 8vo. ; Paper
Covers, 50c.

"The talu is told in Miss Mulock's usual clear and forcible manner, and
cannot fail to prove highly interesting."— (#«<'//>/» Daily Mercury.

NASBY (P. V.)— Abou Ben Adhem, by Petroleum v. Nasbt.

Crown 8vo. ; PajRU-, 50 .eiitH.

. . . " Everybody will buy it, everybody will road it, and everybo«ly
irill feel bettor for buying and reading it" — lioston Transcript.

ILLUSTRATED CA'IALOOUE OF BOOKS.

. . . •• Written in a lively stylo. . . . Will be sure to be read." —
Worcester Spy.

. . . " Mr. Nasby ia a funny fellow, and we have had a good mamj
hearty laughs over his pnge»."—Conyregattonalist.

** It is spiced Mrith rich humour." — Boston JoumaL

OXENHAM (REV. F. N.)— Everlasting Punishment

Is the popular Doctrine de Fide ? and if not, is it true ? Considered in a
letter to the Right Hon. W. E. Gladst/^ne, M. P., by the Rev. F. N.
O.YKMIAM, M. A. Paper, 25 cents.

. . . " It may be added, in conclusion, that Mr. Oxenham's letter deserves
serious perusal at a time when men are proving all things, and endeavouring to hold
fast to that which is good." — Canadian Monthly,

. . . " The treatise is very learned and exhaustive on the negative side of the
question, and those having an interest in the question should not fail to read it." — St.
CatharintH News.

PINKERTON (ALLAN )— The Expressman and the

Detective, by Allan Pinkbrton, author of "The Detective and
Soninumbulist," ** Claude Molnotto," etc. Crown 8vo. ; Paper, 40c.

" It abounds in dramatic situations, exciting incidents, and startling denotments ;
and everything is told in a charmingly easy, cle.ir, natural style, with here and there
almost exquisite touches of humour." — The. Laporte Ilvrald.

" The stories arc told in a straightforward manner ; and the appearance of the
volume is most creditable to the publishers." — Tfw. Journal oj Education.

" If you are hungry for a rich and charmmg story, told with simplicity, vivid-
ness and force, buy * The ICxpressman and the Detective.' It interests yv)u, absorbs
you ; you are hurried from p.ige to page, chapter to chapter, as through the .icts and
scenes of a great and thrilling play." — Tlie Laporte Herald.

PINKERTON (A.)— The Detective and the Somnambu

list, l>y Allan Pinkbrton, author of "The Expressiuan and Detec-
tive," " Claude Melnotte," etc., etc. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, $1.00, Pajier
Covers, 75c. Profusely and beautifully illustrated with full page
engravings. Bound in the best style, with black and gold ornamenta-
tion.

" It is sufficiently exciting as a romance, to gratify the most insatiable appetite
or strange occurrences." — Oolxlen Aije.

" Mr. Pinkert<m has met with very curious adventures in the course of his detec-
tive experience, and he has turned certain of them to excellent account in the present
volume. "—New York Oraphic.

" The interest which the reader feels from the outset is intense and resistless. He
is swept along by the narrative, being held by it whether he will or no." — Harford
Evtnmy Post.

" We noticed that more copies of these books were sold on the trains than al
others combined.'' — Sterling ( III. ) Standard.

SCHULTE, (REV. J)— Roman Catholicism, old and new]

from the standpoint of the Infallibility Doctrine, by John Scuultk,
D.D., Ph.D. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, «1.00. Full GUt, |1.B0.

"It will l>e welcome as an interesting addition to the literature of a subject
which has for a large class of minds an attractiveness amounting .-\lmost U> fascina«
» ion. "— ToroHto uIoIh, ^

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OP BOOKH.

read."-
id nuMiy

imentt

ired in a
i. F. N.

r deserves
ig to hold

ikle of the
I it."— 5*.

ad the

itive and

ir, 40c.

lomments ;
and there

ice of the

:ity, vivid-
)u, absorbs
le .icts and

lamba

id Dotec-
»0, Pai)er
'ull page
Lamenta-

appetite

Ihisdctec-
le present

Llleas. lie
{Uartfori

U than al

[nd new I
mULTK,

subject
foscina*

"The spirit in which the author writes is excellent, anxious far more for truth
than for victory. Mis book should not offend, if it does not satisfy Dr. S'» former co-
religionists. I lis manner of meeting Roman error is that modest manliness which
marks its own conviction of truth, and at the same time evidences anxiety that men,
once fellow-travellers, should be found bO yet again, though in regions more becoming
« revelation from Clod, lieyond question Dr. Schulte's effort is worthy of all praise.
-Bvanyelical Churchman, Toronto.

" This is a work of honest intent and snbstantial merit, such as deserves a careful
perusal from those who take an interest in the chief religious controversy of the dny."
— lUuttrcUed Gatuulian Newt, Atontreal.

STOWEj (Mrs. H- B )— We and Our Neighbours, by Mrs.

4arhiet Beeciier Stowe, author of " Uncle Tom's Cabin," *' Mj
Wife and I." Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, $1.00, Paper, 75c.

" It is one of the best of Mrs. Htowe's novels ; and Mrs. Stowe ii incapable
of writing a poor one." — St. LouU Olobe.

" • We and Our Neighbours ' is written in Mrs. Stowe's genial, hearty style,
with the nparkle of fun, wit and humour, and the touches of deep pathos which
characterize her work," — Worctnter S]»y.

" This is one of Mrs. Stowr'n best novels ; it is racily written, and, moreover,
has touches of deep pathos."— J/on(rea/ ileraUl.

STOWE (Mrs. H. B.)-Betty's Bright Idea, Hy Mrs.

Hark'it Beech kr Stowe, iutlior of '• Wi- .md Our Neighbours,"
" Uucle Tom's Cabin," etc. Crowu 8vo. ; Papur, 25c.

. . . "Mrs. Stowe's name is guarantee of the merits of the story." —
Kingtton Whig.

" These stories are imi)reKnatcd with true religious feeling and kindly hunau
sympathy, and arc thcrefon- Ada])tcd to improve the heart as well as to afford
pleasant reading."— (7/irij*<i(i>» (luardian, Toninlo.

" It is the most vivacious bit of hers which we have read for a long tima." —
Ctmudian lUuatrated Ntwa, Atontreal.

BTOWE (Mrs H. B)— Footsteps of the Master A

series of i*eading8, meditations, carolH, hymns, poems, etc. Followin.;
the course of the life of our Lord (m earth, by Kaukiet Hkechkr
Stowe. 1 vol., Crown 8vo., with illustrutions, illuminutod titles, ntc
Ex. Cloth, beveled, gilt and ink stamped, $1.25, Paper Coven, #1.00
Cloth, full gilt, ei.50.

** I have Io> d to hear my Tx)rd spoken of ; and whorewr T havr utin the priajk
ol his shoe in ths earth, there have I coveted to set my foot too "—Afr. Sti
'tut ^vinv words. 1*ii.(ikim' Puookws.

iLLUSXaATID CATALOGUE OF BOOKS.

" U consiBta of readings and meditations for differenv church seasons, foi;ov •
ing the life of Jesus from A<ivent to Aacansior, though not in oclosiasticel pre*
oision of form. It is interspersed with poem -t, carols ''ymiia, etc., and, ^itb ii.n
tasteful tyi)ography, illustrations, and illuni'tJ^ued titl % wiii :nak^ a prottj* t;>flJ
book, as weli as a helpful and useful manua) of rc1i^oi:« reading." — New Y'>>fi
Thnes.

SPENCE (JACOB.)— Reading!?! andIi.8cUa:ions specially

adapted for Ttmperance workers and s* '^i&l K-t-he.ntigs, by Jacob
Sfence, Secretary Temperance and Fiohibitor^ IjeH^jUO. 8vo. ; Ootli,
76c., PajHjr, 50c.

. . . " It is a book that will serve a good purpose among the young men
and women of our Temfterancc organizations, and will enable tucm to make the
lodge room far more intcn-sting than what it often is. The selections arc all of a
Lign order, while a nuinl>er of the beet articles arc original. As a whole, we can
most heartily commend Mr. Spence'e little volume to our Temperance friends." —
Evmituj Journal, St. Ctitharinu.

SALM-SALM (PRINCESS.)-Ten Years of my Life,

by Princess Salm-Salm (the Canadian Priucese). Crown 8vo. ;
Cloth, $1.00, Pa|>er Covers, 75c. With portrait of Princess.

•• The Princess Snlm-Salm was recently married at Stuttgardt to a wealthy
English gentleman, a Mr. Heueage by name. The marriage w»a celebrated with
great erlat. Representatives of foreign courts were present, and the Em])erors of
Germany and Austria sent their congratulation r. The bride was most olegputly
dressed, and is descril>ed as still being singularly handsome. Under ordinary cir-
cumstances a paragraph of this nature would have appeared among our go8Hii>y
clippings, but on account of the very remarkable uistory of the luroine — for
heroine she is — we give the item greater prttminence. It may be also worth while
to add a word or two about the Princess. >Sho is a native of Phillipsburg, Quebec,
and daughter, as we have before stated in those columiiH jf Mr. Wm. Joy,

Strikine out for herself while young, in her teens, fyhe was first a waiter girl in
a Vermont hotel. .Subsequi:ntly she ibstinguiRhc-d herhulf in a circus, and after-
wards passed on to the l>oardM of an American theatre. It was as an actress that
the Pnnce Salm-Salm, who was a wild, roving character, met the Phillipsburg lass
in Woshini^ton, and l)ccoming fasoiniited with her charms, for she was unmistak-
ably beautiful, proposed, and marrie<l her.

The Princess has been once home to He<^ ht<r pai\:nt8 since her brilliant career
dawned upon her. It was <lunug the lifetime of her Hto^. husband, though he did
not accompany her. She w rites them at intervals, nnd has beftn mainly instru-
mental in supporting them f^i yeais past.

.Strange a* may aj»»vr '*-<• foregoing.'it is true in every particular, and capabls
of the amplest verifier* c w." -St. John's Quebec Newt,

TWAIN (MARK ) -The Adventures of Tom Sawyer,

by Mark Twain, author of •' InnocentK Abroad," " Roughing It,"
•* Old Times on the Mississippi." Crown 8vo., 350 pages, Cloth,
$1.00, Pa|>er Covers, 75c.

. . . " The limitations of his trans^rpssione are nicely and artistically
traced. . . In a word, he is a boy on the moral side. What makes him de-
lightful to the reader is that on the ima.nnativ«i aicte he is veiy mtioh more, and
thouuh every boy has wild and fantastic dreums, this boy cannot rest till he has
■omenow realized them. The local material and the incidents with which his
career is worked up ar» excellent, antl throughout thero is scrupulous regard for
the boy's iM»int of view in reference to his surroundings ami himnelf. which uhows
how tapidiy Mr. (.'lemons has grown as an artist. We do not rememb*'- anything
in which this propriety is violated, and its preservation iMlds immensely to th«
grown-up reader's satisfaction in the amusing and exciting story."

"Tom Hrown and Tom Hail«y are, amuii^ hoys in books, alone d«»
•erving t,, b« nsTued with Tom Sawy«r Th^ AH<mti<- Monthly.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUB OF BOOKS

tical pve-
, with ii.i

jpecially

' Jacob

; Cloth,

oung men
make the
c all of a
le, we can
riends." —

y Life,

m 8vo. ;

a wealthy
rated witn
nperors of
; elegpotly
diii&ry cir-
ur goBHJuy
^roiue — tor
rorth while
pg, Quebec,
loy.

titer girl in

and after-

treas that

psburg lass

unmistak-

iant career
ugh he did
uTy instru-

nd capabla

awyer,

hing It, '
leH, Cloth,

iftiitieally
lea him cle-
I more, and
I till hu has
I which hi«

reg»r<' for
^ich uhoWB
anything

sly to th«

TREVELYAN. (G- 0.)-The Life and Letters of Lord

Macaulay, ''y his Nephew, (i. Otto Trevklyan, M.P. With
Poi trait on Steel. Comjdeto in 2 vols. Svo., Cloth, '^3.00 ; Half Calf,
^G.O'J; Full. Morocco, $8.00.

" Mr. Trevelyan has written the memoii of Iiis uncle w'lh as mv\(\\ ^cxxi tr,,te a:^
grateful and affectionate (eeling. * *! * Mr Tteve'yor: has cliitily (■ iitd i^n r 'jno.ss
selectioii'i 'rom h mass v[ the most rnreserved ''i'ini / corresponilcce ; tor fro;n his
boyhood to the ..itost days of his career Macaulay lived with his sisters on *—ya\-. oi
tht' most )')ving intimacy, makinj, ihem the confulanis of all his hope's u;.l fj^eJh v;s.
His letters to lady Trevelyan and others, while they huhlile over with vrn.'- md ] i.iy-
fulness, resemble rather those private journals which some men keep f . ihe!; ov/n
satisfaction, but scrur^ulously reserve for personal reading. They make ;- inii'iu'cly
acquainted witn the threat author and statesman. We are presented to a i; sn r'moat
affectionate and lovable nature, with the ^ift of inspiring intense attachment and ad
miration in those who were the nearest anil dearest to him." — Loudon Titnes.

'" The correspondence which fills so large a space is remarkable for its naturalness
and freedom, written without the slightest aim at literary effect, and relating the cur-
rent events of the day with the frankness and hilarity of a roystering schoolboy.
Macaulay's warm domestic affections crop out on tvery occasion, and the whole tone
of the letters indicates a man of unafccted simplicity of character and true nobleness
of purpose. His sketches of the literary society of London, of which he was not to
* the manner born,' will charm many readers who retain a taste for personal gossip
about famous writers. "— A'. K Tribune.

" We do not doubt that these volumes will be read throughout the world with a
curiosity and an interest only to be sut[ assed by the success of Lord Macaulay's own
writings. " — Edinburgh Review.

" Mr. Trevelyan has produced, from very rich and attractive materials, a very
delightful hoaVy ~ Spectator y London.

•' A delightful surprise even to the most insatiable devourer of biogn ,>hies.
Sure to be a classic among biographies. — A'. Y. Times,

• • •

"It is Tarely ihat a biography of a man of letters, a poet and a st:sff«!m?'i, a ."nan
of the world and a retired student, a favourite in society and a lover of homi con be
otherwise than interesting. It would be difficult to find one half so full of interest in
its details, and narrated so simply, elotpiently, and judiciously, as this Life of Macau-
lay by his nephew. • • * There is not merely not one page thai i.*; dull, hv. iheie is
not a page which has not some variety of charm to attract an'l at .^.^ {h'„ dt) ;;hted
reader." — Notes and Queries, LomUm.

"The biography is in every respect worthy of the subject. Mr. Treveiyan has
executed his task with most praiseworthy modesty .I'ul good ta.st , aud v. ith gre: ■
literary skill. • • • Macaulay's life forms a most interesting boih. iiv i(f aa he did
in the thick of the lilprary and political activity of his time. I; aflord^ ; ■( < any iresh
pictures of incidents in which he played a p . and amu.Mng and insiruciis-: anecdotes
of the celebrities with whom he came in com ;t, and above all, it throws a great deal
of unexpected light on his own personal character." — Examiner, London.

" In the pages of Mr. irevelyan, readers will find that which ought to hft studied,
and can hardly be abridged."— Gi.adstonb in the Quarterly h'evteiv.

"There has not been so good a bi<
Rtview.

aphy since Stanley's kmoXA.^^—Wtstminsttr

" The biographies of three men, Samuel Johnson, 1/09-1784 (F.^swell) ; Walter
Scott, 17711832 (Lockart) ; and Thomas P.abington Macaulay, 1800 1859 ('f'revelyan),
cover one hundred and filty years of the literarv history of England, and Mt |>rub«b(y
the best works of their class writteo. " — Am. Jathliopolist.

alone dt«

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BOOKS.

-m

VWAIN (MARKO-Old Times on the Mississippi, hj

Mark TwAlK, a\!thor of " Innocents Abroad," " Roughing lib, etc.,
etc. Tenth Eciiticn. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, 75c., Paper, 50c.

" This is, ^HLout doubt, Mark Twain's most humourous work, it describes
the ' good old ' raciug days on the Mississippi in a manner whioL cannot help to
please and instnict tne reader. The work is now issued for the first time in book
form."— The Press

" The genial humour and wit of Mark Twain have made his name familiar
wherever those qualities are appreciated. The present volume is in no way
inferior to his numerous popular works, an<l iz\ many respects it may be classell
among his best. . . The book is mos^ amusing." — Toronto Daily Mail.

« • . "Is one of his best prodr.otious." — Kingston News.

THOMPSON (H. L) — Thompson's Miscellaneous

Readings and Recitations- Illuwlnated cover. Price, Boards,
60c. Pa|)er, 30c. This volume contains a series of pathetic, comic,
and serious selections, edited by H. L. Thompson. Many of <jhem
are quite new, and all will be found well adapted for nchool exhibi-
tions, literary entertainments and temperance gatherings

TROLLvOPE (A)— The Prime Minister, by Anthony

Tbollope. Crown 8vo. ; Cloth, $1.25, Pa|)er, 81.00.

" Mr- Trollope is the great master of the society novel of the day.
He is her (George Eliot) superior in narration, and in the production of a sense of
variety in the characters and in the every day scenes which he depicts. On great
occasions his female rival rises superior to him ; but on ail others ne has, witli an
ease aL.d simplicity of style in which he is without a superior, almost without a
rival, a power like to yet different from that by which De Foe compels us to ac-
cept his uurely fictitious narratives as literally true relations of something that
actually happened. . . . De Foe's manner is like modulation in music for the
sake of modulation ; Trollope's like modulation by melody, or by harmonic pro-
greseicm, which is in itself beautiful. . . . Hut Lady <ilen is the life and soul
of the Imok, she is so hearty, so earnest, so really unselfish ; and her talk is the
mnst delightful womanly tal'f that was over put on paper; vritty, headlong, per-
verse, whimsical, penetrative, unreasonable, unconsecutive, delicious, a more per-
Kotly natural or cnarming character than Lady (ilen does not exist in moclorn
fiotioR. *Tho Prime Minister' will add to Mr. Trollope's reputation."— Y'Ae
Galaxy,

" There is nothing in his novels to which Mr. Podsnap could object as likely
to be offensive ut hhrrnful to 'the young person.' Moreover, he is jacile princtp$
as a (i<.^liueator of love and love-making ; and the wonderful power of invention
displc«>ed in turning the kaleidoscope of the tender passion, and presenting it in a
hundred patternn cunningly differentiated, forms one of his chief attractions.

" Kis novolrr nave always been, and will doubtless continue to be, prime
favourites with the fair. In the novel reading body politic, woman suffrage not
only prevails l)ut dominates, and, therefore, Mr. Trollope will never fail so long
-Ml be charms the majority of the electorate. . , . The present work is graphic
and interesting. . . . The novel altogether is refreshing reading. '—7'As
Varindian Monthly.

TOE:HER (MISS BESSIE )-A Woman in the Case,

h\ M.'~s Bkssie Turner. Demy 8vo. ; PajKn-, 50c.

•'A ;!'!ve! with a good deal of incident ingeniously conceived and well describ-
C'i. It ?ii certainly readable and on that^aooount to be praised. — Toronto Daily
MM. '^

" TL'e bouk is exceedingly|iatttresting, and well dssoribsd." — Toronto Mining
Sun. '

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BOOKS.

is the
per-

M likely
yrinctpi
vention
< it in a
la.

prime

age not

■o long

graphic

Sas6i

lleaonb-
Daily

ivniitg

" The atory is an entertaining one, ami ita circulation will doubtleaa repay
tue enterprise of the Canadian puluishera. "—J/cq/bn/ Monitor.

"There are senaational eacapadus enouch in the book to aupply Wilkie Collim
enough matter for a dozen plotj." — Olobe, St. John, N. B.

The New Pcems of Jean Ingelow, J. O- Whittier, and H

W. Longfellow- 1 vol,. 8vo. ; Cloth elegant, $1.00, full gilt,
$1.25, Boards, 50c. This volume contains " The Shepherd Liidy," and
other poems, by Jean Ingelow; •' Mal)el Martin," by J. G.Whit-
tier ; " The Masque of Pandora " and other poems, by H. W. Long-
fellow. ♦

"The SiiRrnKRD Lady." — " A volume of r-„o' jweetneaa. . . There

are aixteen poems, not one of which is in •uoud in Miss lagelow's publisluMl
volume, though one of them — " At Once " — charmed thousantla of readers in the
pages of Harper's Monthly. Wo know not a sweeter poem in the language than
' Like a Laverock in the Lift,' — a simple, yet touching drama, whose uomely
words and easy cadence brings tears to the eyes." — Boston Literary World.

"Mabel, Makten." — "It is a simple, tender lovely idyl."— New York
Tribune.

"No reader, endowed with a sense of the beautiful and graceful, could put
down this last poem from the pen of Whittier, without a keen feeling of enjoy-
ment and a thorough admiration of the poet's atreugth and fertility of cxpreaaion. "
— Bisto.i Traveller.

■' Thk Masque OF Pandora and otiieb I'orms. — There iw about them an
undelinable charm of tone, — a purity, a «;almnt!8H, a melancholy, —that belongs
only to this poet, and could belong to him perfectly only in the fullness of age." —
Scribner's Monthly.

"' Even the oldest trep some fruit may bear,' writes Mr. Ltmgfellow ; and
this rich ftnd varied yield of his genius is a convincing proof that as a puot he
muat atill be regarded as in his prime." — London Echo.

The Prattler. «4 beautifully illustrated story book for boys and girls.
280 pages, 150 full page illustrations. Boards, Embossed Cloth Back,
Illuminated Cover, $1.00, Cloth, gold and black, and chromo on side,
91.50.
There ia no more beautiful book for boys and girls in the ruarket than this.
"The illuatrationa have been executed in the highest style of the art, and are en-
tirely new while the letter-pruaa printing} would do credit to any Engliah or
American pabliahing houae.

WOOD (MRS. H.)-"Parkwater, by Mrs. Henry Wood,
author of " East Lynne," "The Chanuiugs," etc., etc. Crown 8vo. ;
Cloth, 75c., Pai)er, 50c.

"The tale is told in Mrs. Wood's usual clear and forcible manner, and cannot
fail to prove highly intereating."— Om^Z/^A Daily Herald.

" The moral aimed 'tt is clear nn<l unmiatakable, and may well be studied
with profit. Besides, viewed aa a novel merely, ' Farkwater ' deserves the high
opinions formed of it by the English press, and we presume will be widely popu-
lar on this continent." — Toronto Daily Mail.

WARNER (C. D)— Mummies and Moslems ; or My

Winter on the Nile, by Charler DtuLEv Warner. Crown
8vo. , 480 pages. Cloth, #1.25, PajHir, $l.(»).

"The recurd of events as they happen, tbuugfata as they occur,
things aa thuy apuear, day aft«r day, net down clearlv and simply, but with all
the unconscious cnarm of a style which is hero at ita iM'vt, and with a toucli ao
light, so brief, ao passing, ko uniuaiatent, that from Iwgititng to end the book never
weariea. The autuora humor ia a delicious light on it id\." — The Atlantu- Monthly,

itxustrated catalogue of wooks.

. . . " Warner's powem of observation and the keen sense of humour
which nrevades every page, cannot fail to give both inforu.ation and pleMure." —
Perth Bximaitor.

. . . " This is one of the most interesting works turned out by Belford
Bros, since they commenced business."— A'mj/atow News.

" This is an exceedingly interesting and at the sume time entertaining
Tolumo." — St. Catharine's Ntws.

WILSON ' Mrs)— St- Elmo, by Augusta J. Evans Wilsjh,
author of " Infelice." Crown 8vo. ; CUth, l$l.25, Linen, $1.00.

" It is truly a most delightful, and agreeable work." — Gmljih Herald.

"Its merit should secure for ' St. Elmo,' a large sale."— Por< Hope Times.

'"St. Elmo' is truly a most delightful and agreeable work."'— Toronto
National.

'* Her style ii strange, wonderful and fascinating." — Ouelph Mercury.

"ThoRi! who have never rea<l this thrilling, interesting work have miued A
literary tn^at." — Frtderirton Vulonial Fanner.

WILSON (Mrs)— Infelice, by Augusta J. Evans Wilson.

Crov-n 8vo. ; Cloth, $1.25, Linen, $1.00.

This is the last work of this gifted authoress.

" Who has not read with rare delight the Novels of Augusta Evans? Hep
strange, wonderful, and fascinating style ; the profound deuths to which she sink*
the probe into human nature, touching its most sacred cords and springs ; the in-
tense interest thrown around her characters, and the very marked peculiarities of
her principal rigures, conspire to give an unusual interest to the Works of this
eminent tSouthem Authoress."

Belford's Monthly Magazine— Published by Belford Brothers,
11 Colborne street, Toronto. Subscription price, $3.00 per annum.
Single copies, 30c.

*' It has been looked for with interest, and we venture to express the belief that
public expectation will not be disappointed. They have started well, and they will
continue as they have begun, we do not doubt." — Toronto Mail.

" The array of nan cs, as contributors to this promising repertory, is certainly
both varied and attractive i\ the extreme. The printing, paper, and general appear-
ance are highly cre<litabie tc the publishers." — Quebec Chronicle.

" Every lover of literature in Canada should subscribe to this magazine." — Godirith
Huron Signal.

" It is printe<l in the highest style of the art, elegantly illustrated, and is without
doubt our best Canadian publication." — Markham Economist.

" The whole number, containing 136 pages, is excellent, and, we repeat, creditable
to the publishers." — Whitby Chronicle.

"To judge from its literary character and mechanical execution, it will stand am
equal chance with other candidates for public favour." — Toronto Globe.

** Will bear favourable comparison with the general run of similar publications ia
the old world." — St. Thomas Weekly Timen,

" One feature of this truly excellent magazine we must not omit to mention, an<l
that is, its illustrations, which are faultless — more cannot be said. We hope and believe
(not alone because it is a Canadian enterprise) that the magazine will have unbouiided
succtSB. " — Windsor Evening Times.

" The new magazine deserves the support of the reading public of the Dominion."
—Gait Reformtr.

) " Is unquestionably the most ambitious tflert yet made in this country in the
nL«Asin« iJTie.''. «-•,%. Thomat Home 7ournal

'■-^

<r;^^

* #