IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A ^ i^^ 1.0 1.1 11.25 us ■ 40 I 1^ 2.2 2.0 lUU % (^ /}. / •c '^ > ^ y ^^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 S: :!^. CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Note* tachniques at bibliographiquas The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original cupy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D □ D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur6e et/ou pelliculde I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes g^ographiques en couleur Coloured init (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutdes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte. mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmies. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl6mentaires: The toti L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exempl^ire qu'il lui a 6ti possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique. qui pouvent modifier une imayi« reproduite. ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mithode normale de filmage sont indiqu^s ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ i/ D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagtes n Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur6es et/ou pelliculies Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tachetdes ou piquies Pagos detached/ Pages ddtachdes The post of tl filmi Orig begi the I sion othfl first sion or ill Showthrough/ Transparence rn Quality of print varies/ Quality indgale de {'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel supplimentair. Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible The shall TINl whi( Map diffe entir begii right requ metl Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata. une pelure, etc., ont 6X6 filmdes 6 nouveau de fapon 6 obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X re i6tail8 es du modifier er une Fiimage les The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: National Library of Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original co|<«es in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -^ (meaning "CON- TINUED "). or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grAce i la g6n6rosit6 de: Bibliothdque nationale du Canada Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire film6. et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de fiimage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimto sont film6s en commengant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmAs en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols -^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN ". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre fiim^s 6 des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque W* document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd d partir de I'angle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. errata ito e pelure, ion A n t 2 3 32X 1 2 3 6 6 •^ » I , ■ •'.'''":. I ,' ' I '"h"'' ■' flBtKy ' llllJ.'\' :' ill' '■'' iiii>k''i.'i'V itii'i iii'iiitr',ii<''i1 '.3:ii""'^''t •m'l' ■"■'H,.',|ir S' GC rSLAXi OF P COJ " jSft^ h * FOUR YExlRS IN A GOVERNMENT EXPLORING EXPEDITION; ^ TO THF '^ I ISLAND OF MADEIRA — CAPE VERD ISLANDS — RRAZTL — rOAST OF PATAfiONTA — CHILI — PERI" — PAFMATO OROrP — SOCI- ETY ISLANDS — NAVIfiATOR fJROUP — AL^STRALIA — AN- TARCTIC CONTINENT — NEW ZEALAND — FRIEND- LY ISLANDS — FEJEE CROUP — SANDWICH ISLANDS — NORTHWEST COAST Of- AME- RICA—OREGON — CALIFORNIA — EAST ^ INDIES — ST. HELENA, .tc, &c. IN ONE VOLUME. BY ' LIEUT. GEO. M. COLVOCORESSES, U. S. Navy, lOl AX OFFICER OF THE EXPEDITION. - - . A't 4 V NEW YORK: ^ CORNISH, LAMPORT k CO., PUBLISHERS, No. 8 Park Place. 1 852. Qii r 'y' W CL 299412 I i Entered according to Act of Congresi in the year 1892, by CORNISH, LAMPORT & CO., In the Clerk'i Office of the Diitrict Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. Stereotyped by Vincent Dill, Jr., No. 29 Beekman Stroet. N. Y. rn.——- PREFACE. It may be proper to observe, as nlTordirip; some guarantee for the correctness of tlie informiition contained in this Volume, that it lias been compiled from a Journal, or a Diary, wliicli the author kept in obedience to n " General Order" from the Navy Department, and that the Journal in question was frequently submitted to the Commander-in-Chief of the Expedition for his inspection ond perusiil. The work will be found to embrace incidents occurring on board the ship, Descriptions of Natural Scenery, Manners and Customs, Government, Religion, and Cunmieree. By adopting a more diffusive style, I mi*!;ht have exceeded my present limits ; instead of one such volume I mir^ht 1 ave produced two or three, but the general reader would liave gained nothing by this, his main object being to gather in- formation, and the more succinctly it is conveyed to him tbe more rapidly he will acquire it, and more easily retain it. In short, I have endeavored to furnish a work which should have the merit of being insiructive and entertaining, concise and cheap ; and I hope that the present volume will be found to possess all these advantages. G. M. C. Departui to Rio lit Fun they 1 the Gr^ Govern How th uients— virons— Robert I i^eparture — Arriv — Arrivi Observm — Passa^ at Good country del Fueo — Loss o: wreck—, n. B. M. ^ CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Departure from Norfolk — Weather — Orders to the " Relief" to proceed to Rio Janeiro — Orders for the remainder of the vessels to rendezvous (It Funchal — St. Michael's Island — Vast Fields of Sea Weed — Impression they made on Columbus's men — Arrival at Madeira — Beautiful scenery — General Uescriptiou of the Island — Manufactures — Personal iippearance of the Peasantry — Their dross and liahitations — Culture of the Grape — Description of Funchal — MnjiVs unpopular with tlie i)resent Government — Nunneries — The celebrated recluse, Maria Clementina — How the Nuns support themselves — Cheapness of labor — Public Amuse- ments — Portuguese etiquette previous to dancing — Beauty of the En- virons — Ride to the famous Cural — Catholic Burial Ground — Story of Robert Machim and Anna D'Arfet. CHAPTER II. Departure for the Cape de Verde Islands — Phosphorescence of the Ocean — Arrival at St. Jago — Description of the Capital — Passage to Brazil — Arrival at Rio Janeiro — The U. States Frigate " Independence" — Observations on Rio Janeiro and its Commerce with the United States — Passage to Terra del Fuego — The enemies of the flying-fish — Arrival at Good Success and Relief Bays — Orange Harbor — Description of the country in its vicinity — General Observations on the Natives of Terra del Fuego — Departure for Valparaiso — A terrific storm off Noir Island — Loss of all our Anchors and Cables, and narrow escape from Ship- wreck — Arrival at Valparaiso — Obliged to borrow an anchor from II. B, M. Ship "President." [f 6 CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. General Description of Chili — Climutc — Eiirtlniuukes — Valpjirai.so anil its Commerce — Observations on tiie Inliahitants — Anni>i(MM<'iits — Heli;.;ion — Education — The Army and Navy — Newsjjapers — I'resiflent Prieto's visit to Valparaiso — His reception by tlie citizens — Arrival of the " Peacock," " Vinccnnes," and *' Porpoise" — Si)lendid ball given by the citizens of Valparaiso in honor of the Victory of Vungai. CHAPTER IV. Arrival at Callao Harbor — Chilian Squadron, and famous Fortress — Ob- servations on the City — Visits to Lima — Description of tlie peculiar dress of the Liminian ladies — The Theatre — Vice President Lafiientc — The country in possession of the Chilians — Deplorable state of att'airs — The " Relief" ordered to the United States — Fears are entertained for the safety of the Schoouer " Sea Gull" — Lieutenant Craven goes in seai'ch of her. CHAPTER V. Departure for Society Islands — Appearance of the Coral Islands — How they are formed — The Natives of Calermont de Tonerre refuse to let Captain Wilkes land — Obliged to fire blank cartridges at them — Their personal appearance — Alarm fires during the night — Arrival at the Island of Aurora — Remarks on its Inhabitants. CHAPTER VI. Arrival at Tahiti — General Description of the Island — The Governor of Matavi comes on board to engage the washing of the officers — His per- sonal appearance — A stroil in the y hevi-ral lltMithuu Ciiiol'd — liioir (.'iitniil;iiiit« a^aiii?-t ilie Chri.^tian.s — Dcf^cription ol' Nuo- kualofa Town — .Manufacture cC Tajta— ViisilM of tho two Kings, Josiah ftnft" the Cocoanut trees — Sail for Saver Bay — Hot Springs in its vicinity — Sujjerstition of the Natives — Sail for Sandal Wood Bay— Broils between two brothers Pvcceivc from the " Peacock'" the prisoner Vendori — The Vincenne;;' 1st Cutter captured by the Natives — Send an Expedition to punish them and recover the Boat — Mr. Baxter of the Brig " Leonidas" dies from an explosion — Sail for Matawata Bay — Description of the Town — The King's Wives — Our Surveying Signals are stolen by the Natives — Tho King is compelled to restore them — Two of our Officers are massacred by tho Iniiabitants of Mahdo — Destruction of their Town, and other punisluiient indicted on them — Tribute to tho Dead by the Oiaplain of the Expedition — Meeting of OfHcers for the purpose of subscribing towards the erection of a Monument in the Cemetery at Mount Auburn — Bid adieu to the Fejee Islands. C H A P T E 11 X I V. Extent of the Fejee Group — Soil and Productions — Description of tho Inhabitants — How they wear their Hair — Pow '^" of the Chiefs over the' common people — Women treated as Slaves — IIow they curry Messages — Ci proj Hus Ileli, Med, Valii Arrival Kesid — Th. E.xam I)rogr tlierec takes Succe.' the Ml two x\i person Surpas.si] the Sc Loa — . visions dition- ance o: and fa room- - Group J visit to 1 Childre rONTENT?. iich other rrt— KiRht Iloathen II dl' Nito- ns, Josinh kvri'<-ke!ird all the \ his Queen eacouk cajj- e •' Chavlca I pi'otect it he Coconnut )orstition of ;wo brothers Vincenncs;' ,nnish them " tiles from Town— The atives--The e massacred n, and other (')iaplain of subscribing ouut Auburn — Copiousness of the LnnpfuriRo — rircumcision — T'nlypnmy — rannHml propensities — CDurtsliip — Wives stran^rled and buried with tlicir llu.sl)ands — The tSick killetl by their relatives — Form of Ciovernmei't — Ueligion — Tlieir account of the Origin of Races — Their knowledge < f Medicine — Their Weapons — Tiieir Manufactures — Foreign Trad«- — Value of Whales' Teeth, &c. C II A V T i: K XV. Arrival at the Samlwich Islands — Description of Ib.nolulu — Foreign llesidents — American l-lntcJ-pviso — Pcvsonal ajipearanee of the Natives — The Market — Two Natives hung for poisoning a Woman — Witness an Examination of 700 Native Cluldren a. Mr. IJinghani's Church — Tlieir progress and natural abilities — A visit to the famous Pali — llemarks thereon — Horse-racing a favorite amusement of the women — My Horse takes fright — Obliged to go on lioard the Ship — Sail for Hawaii — Our Success in our Scientific Pursuits while at Oahoo — Immense height of the Mountains of Hawaii — Wrestling Match on the Forecastle between two Natives — Arrival at Hilo — A Present from the King's Agent — His personal ai)poarance and behavior. (MIAPTEU XVI. Surpassing l)eauty of the Country about Hilo — The Missionaries — Send the Scientific Instruments on shore — Excursion to the top of Mauna Loa — Refusal of Natives, employed to carry the Instruments and Pro- visions, to proceed — Scarcity of Wood and Water — Objects of the Expe- dition — I visit the Shore — Mr. Alden and fifty Seamen go to the assist- ance of the Mauna Loa party — Haul the Seine — Tlic Head-man of Hilo and family, and the King's Agent and liis Jjady. dine in the Ward- room — How the Ladies dress, &c., kc C II A P T E II XVII. ly visit to the Great Volcano — The Mauno Loa Party accomplish its object, and the " Stars and Stripes" wave upwards of a week over the top of one of the highest mountains in the world — Character of the Mountain — Sufferings of our people from the excessive Cold, and Mountain Sickness — Sail for Maui — Pass the Island Raloolawe — Arrival at Lahaina — Appearance of the Surrounding Country — The King of the Group visits the Ship — His personal appearance and education — My visit to the Town — Beautiful Landscape — The High School — Native I Children amusing themselves in the Surf — Apparent danger of the 10 CONTENTS. Amusement — Boats employ cfl Surveying the Harbor — Dangerous situa- tion of Mr. May and Crew — 'iescued by Lieutenant Budtl — The King's Scliooner assists us in our Suiveyiu;; Duties — Return to Oahoo to till up >vith Provisions — Keoeive an Official Visit from the Governor of the Island — His connection with tlie lU^y.".! Family. C II A P T i: K X V 1 1 1 . Sail for tlie Northwei-t Coast of America — Description of the Yillula, or " little man of war" — Arrive oflF the Columbia River — Owing to bad weather do not venture to enter — Steer ibr Puget Sound — Narrow es- cape from Sliipwreck — Loss of a Rus.'-Jaii vessel near the same ypot — Savage Character cf the Natives — Enter Puget Sound — Boarded by two Canoes — Description of t'.o Indians living along the Shore.s — Arrival at Nisqually — Survey Hood's Canal — Celebration of the 4th of July on Shore — Serious Accident — Receive a visit from Doctor McLaughlin Chief Factor and Governor of the Ilud.'^on Bay Company — Lieutenant Johnson returns from an excursion in the interior. C H A P T E R XIX. Exploration and Survey of Chickelees River — Difficulties with the Indians at Grey's Harbor — Scarcity of Provisions — Obliged to subsist on dead fish picked up on the beacli — Arrival of Lieut. De Haven with provi- sions — He communicates to us the loss of the " Peacock" — Arrival at Astoria — Kindness of Mr. Birnie — Character of the Indian Tribes about Astoria — Receive orders from Captain Wilkes to join him at Vancouver — Indian Burial Ground.s — Arrival at Vancouver — Observations on the Columbia River — Received orders to join the Overland Expedition to California — Sketch of a life at Vancouver. CHAPTER XX. Early History of Oregon, derived from the most reliable authorities — Cook — /ancouver — McKenzie — Twiss — Greenhow. CHAPTER XXI. Leave Vancouver to join the Overland Party to California encamped, on the Banks of the Willamette River — Rev. Mr. Cone, on his way to Van- couver — His account of our party — Five Americans building a Schooner — Their account of the Country — The Falls — Indian Superstition — Sal- mon Fishery — Observations on the Scenery and Navigation of the River ingerous sitiia- 1(1— The King's Oahoo to fill up overnor of the the Yillnln, or —Owing to bad ;id — Narrow es- he name ypot — Boarded by two res — Arrivnl at 4th of July on or McLaughlin iiy — Lieutenant fith the Indians subsist on dead en with provi- k" — Arrival at in Tribes about at Vancouver rvations on the Expedition to le authorities — encamped, on is way to Van- ling a Schooner lerstition — Sal- )n of the River —Breakfast with tlio c?lobratcil Mr. MoKoy— His Whont Crop— Cana- dian Settlement — American Settlciuont — Observations on the Soil and Produce of the Willamette Valley— Methodist Mission— Divine Service at Mr. Leslie's residence— lireak up the Camp— Drawbacks— Mr. Tur- ner's place, and his present to the party — Loss of some oiOnr Horses — A visit from a party of Calipnya Indians— Mr. Kininons l.vivc-- for Tort Umpquoa — Unfavorable report regarding the Indians — Mr. Emmons' retarn to the Camp — Put the Arms in the best fiojiting condition — Cross the North Fork of the Umpquoa River- Humors that the Indians are preparing to dispute our passage — Indian Women gathering Roots — Indian Burial Ground— Cross the Ump(iuoa Mountains — Cliaracter of the Country— Klamet Indians— Pass Tootootutnas Kivor— Sickness— Expectef her sister- and few, if et so warmly luiinufacture and sale of artificiiil flowers and fruits, with a jFt'W otlier ornamental productions. Tlie former are made of ilvcd featliers and the fruit of wax, and are prized by many i'isiiors as afiording a pleasing remembrance of their sojourn In the island. i Tiie dwellings arc from one to two stories high, and the lijiartiiients are large and well lighted, but owing to .]\Q liiaterial of which they are constructed — stone, aiid the iron- grated windows of the ground-floor — they have a gloomy, ipheerless aspect. Nearly every house has a kind of turret on |he tO[>, from which can be had a fine view of the harbor. i'he principal object of these is, for the inhabitants to look iut for vessels ; the first thing to be done in the morning being mount the turret to see if any strange vessel had ar-ived iu le course of the night. I The streets are narrow, and in some parts very steep, but ley are kept clean. In the principal streets are some very >od stores, kept by Englishmen, who are by far the most Jumcrous of the foreigners that reside on the island. I The market is very good. Beef of good quality can be bad l&r eight cents per lb. ; fowls for thirty-seven cents ; eggs for jight cents per dozen ; vegetables and fruits of every descrip- ion also are abundant. Clothing is as cheap as with us, and )ots and shoes considerably cheaper ; and I may here add, lat this is the case with everything which is made on the iland, and it is to be attributed to the cheapness of labor, the jpghcst wages commanded by mechanics not exceeding tAvelve )llars per month. I In passing through the streets of Funchal, you meet with lliany of the country people, who have come either to trade or jj^ obtain employment. They are a hardy, athletic race, and 4 * ^ 20 'l! , i i il If \ 11 111 MADKIKA. to nil appearance reinarkabl}' polite and kind-hearted. When- ever Avc met them, they inviiriahly saluted iif^. They are extensively employed about the town as carriers, ami a stranjzcr is at times apt to be struck with the ika'oI character of their load ; wlien at a distance, he sees them bearinj^ on their shoulders what he supposes to be a live sheep, but on nearer aitproach ho discovers that they are only the skins of that animal filled with wine. These skins arc preserved as entire as possible, even the legs being retained ; tliey arc kept steady l)y a band which passes over the forehead and supports a considerable part of the weight. 'I'wenty gallons is con- sidered an ordinary load, and they will carry it to any part of the city for a pistarcen. There are few public amusements to bo found in Funchal, and strangers very soon complain of monotony. There is no theatre, no cafe, no resort, in fact, but the billiard-table. The members of the Portuguese Club have a l)all, once a montli during the season, and very agreeable and pleasing re-unions they are. According to Portuguese t'ti(piette, previous to the commencement of dancing, the ladies sit formally at one eml of the room, apart from the gentlenxen, and it is customary at two or three o'clock in the morning, to hand around cups con- taining hot chicken broth. The ball seldom breaks up before daylight. Visiting among the ladies of Fuuchal is performed in Pa- lanquins, and a kind of vehicle lately introduced, rcsembliii,i: one of our New England sleighs. The latter is generally drawn by oxen, and seems to answer better than a wheel vehicle, on account of the steepness and narrowness of the streets. The rides about Funchal are delightful ; the roads are good, and lined on either hany lire kept Liul support-s ions is coii^ any part of in Funchal, There is no 1-table. The )ncc a montli n2 re-unions tvious to tht.' at one end ustomary at 1 cups con- s up befove med in Pa- rcsembliii,L' is generally an a wheel •ncss of the a Is are good, with 2f roves of the orange and lemon tree. The most agreoiible way of taking the:?e rides is on hor.si'baek, horse:* ])eing i)lentiful and generally well broken. Their owners invariably accompany them, and it is amusing to. sec liow they manage to keep up ■when the animal is made by the rider to galio}) or run ; they seize the tail with both hands — thus making the liorsc drtig them after him ; and what seems singular is, the animal never ets frightened, and if not urged on by the rider, will soon ume to a halt. Every one who visits Maderia should certainly ride out to lie Cin-al.* 'J'he road leading to it is one of the most inte- esting on the Island. It ascends gradually, and every now nd then 3'ou are presented with a magnificent view of Fun- Jhal, and its bay. After riding some hours you reach a mount f considerable altitude ; on ascending this you find yourself Jn the edge of the Cural, •where the whole scene suddenly bursts .pen your view, and its beauty and grandeur fill you wit'i onder and astonishment. " Earth lias nothing to showmoi'egrnntl ; Dull would l)e the soul who could pass by A sight so touching in its majesty." * In the descent, the road -winds along the sides of tlie pre- ■ipice, and at every turn new and striking views are brought (But, almost surpassing in grandeur the first. When about ^ve hundred feet from the bottom, the path becomes less jirccipitous, and the country on either side is in a high state of (<|iltivation and sprinkled with cottages, chapels, and con- li^nts. I Few places of sepulture can boast a more delightful Iprospect than the burial-ground of Funchal. Whilst the • The Cural is supposeJ to liavc I. con a ('i:iier. r Wt:: 1 '■' I i ■ llii'/; 00 ANNA D ARFET. dark cypress groves give a sadtloning cfK'Ct to the place itself. in harmony 'svith its object, the surrounding scenery pre- sents some of the finest views in the neigliborhood of th town. The most prominent object in the distance is tlio Peak Fort, tlie principal fortress in Maderia. Its coraraan* ing position renders it a picturesf{ue object from many points of view. The following story relating to the discovery of Maderia. and narrated by a historian raa}^ be interesting to the reader. " Anna D'Arfet, the heroine of the tale, was a lady of big], family and distinguished beauty. She was beloved by Robor Mnchim, an English gentleman of great merit, but her infe- rior in rank and wealth ; the attachment, though mutual, ay;v not countenanced by the proud family of D'Arfet, and findin; her insensible to their admonitions, a warrant was procure from the King, Edward III., by which Machim was arreste:'; and cast into prison, she being in the meantime compelled t ally herself with one more her equal in station. Machim on his release, determined to spare no means to become possesseii of the object of his affections, and by the assistance of r, friend, who introduced himself to his mistress in the character of a groom, succeeded in effecting her escape from a castle near Bristol, where her husband resided. Guided by their trusty friend, they embarked in a vessel bound for France ; biit ?n crossing the channel they were driven out of their 3 course by a fearful storm. For thirteen days they were tossed about in the open ocean, where, being without a pilot, they knew not in what direction to steer. At length a fain: haze in the horizon indicated their approach to land, and soon, ? to their infmite joy, they saw before tliem a beautiful ami richly wooded island. Afachim and his mistress, accompanies! hy som :fwliere genial c ibeed in Anna, 1 lirose, n Hate ve l^nna I itrms of tassel, £ ifforded He surv IQY side reated 1 ig the f ^ed by n'vivorj icir frie lem froi ind. E ie Moor some lies, wl ;o, a )rtugue land. "The said to luest. ring pr m writ ANNA D'ARFET. 23 place itself, scenery prc- liood of tlio tanco is the ts coramand- many points of Maderia, iting to the lady of liigl; id by Robev )ut tier infe mutual, wa and fliidini procurer ras was arresteii compelled t Macliim oi: me possesse istance of ;lic character fom a castle led by their for Franco; ut of their they were liout a pilot. njjfth a fain; lid, and soon. eautiful an kccompanie . )y some friends, landed under the shade of a venerable cedar, rliere they found a temporary shelter, there trusting to the renial climate and enchanting scenery. Machim hoped to suc- jced in administering consolation to the conscience-stricken lAnna, but within a day or two of their arrival another storm ;iirose, more terrible than the last, whioh drove their unfortu- late vessel out to sea. Abandoned to despair, the beautiful mna D'Arfet could not sustain this blow ; she died in the trms of her lover three days after the disappearance of the ressel, and was buried by Machim under the tree which had Afforded them shelter. The spirit of Machim now gave way. [e survived his mistress but a short time, and was buried at l^er side by his companions. With his dying breath he en- reated them to place an inscription upon their graves record- ig the fact, and requesting that, should the spot be ever vis- ?d by Christians, they would there erect a church. The irvivors having punctually followed the last directions of leir friend, embarked again in the boat which had brought lem from their vessel, with the intention of returning to Eng- bd. Borne to the coast of Morocco, they were captured by ie Moors and cast into prison. They narrated their story some fellow captives, amongst whom was the pilot Mo- tles, who, returning from captivity, related the story to iargo, and an expedition was soon after sent out by the )rtuguese government to take formal possession of the land. " The small church now standing near by the cedar tree said to have been the one erected in compliance with this liuest. Bowles in his ' Spirit of Discovery,' gives the fol- ding poetical version of the inscription, supposed to have ^en written by Machim on the grave of Anna D'Arfet : — l;;. I'tMii ,,:„,„ O'er my poor Anna's lowly grave, No dirge shall sound, no knell shall ring. But angels, as the high pines wave, Their half-said Miserere sing. * No flowers of transient bloom at eve The maidens of the turf shall strew, Nor sigh, as the sad spot they leave. Sweets to the sweet, a long adieu.' '* On t ward. Out coutiuii was qui i\'iider }i]iosplic v,e couL for hoiu tliroii<^li aiilmalci ■til re-fly. ^ At ea Prava, ^ describe rcnce, av Invest, an FROM MADEIRA TO VALPARAISO, CHILI. 26 CHAPTER II. FROM MA DERI A TO VALPARAISO, CHILI. On the 25tli -we took our departure, and stood to the south- Avanl. Oil the 6th at sunset, bemg near St. Jago, we hove-to, and coiithiued so until next mornhig. The early part of the night I ^vas quite cloudy, a circumstance which greatly contributed to render the sea in the vicinity of the island appear much more pliospliorescent than usual. Its brilliancy was so great that hve could almost see to read by it, and we all remained on deck I for hours to enjoy the scene. By straining some of the water j through a piece of muslin, it was found to contain myriads of animalculjB, which in the dark shone as brilliantly as the [fire-fly. " At early daylight we filled away, and stood in for Porto iPraya, where w^e arrived at 7 A. M. This harbor may be Idescribed as a semicircular bay, of several miles in circumfe- rence, with bold steep shores. The entrance is from the south- Iwest, and is free from all danger. The usual landing is around [the bluff, upon which the fort and town are built. Sometimes heavy swell sets in the bay, which renders landing very lifBcult. St. Jago is one of the largest of the Cape do Verde Islands, [t extends from the loth to the l()th degree of north lati- tude, and from the 24th to the 25th degree of west longi- tude. The population is estimated at 25,000. There are lany fine pastures to be seen in the interior of the island, !: ,1! 26 ST. JAGO CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS. and here and there a valley of great fertility and beauty, but in general the island is barren and mountainous. The coast is high, especially at the southeast extremity. The hills, rocks, soil, and everything about the surface, bear unmis- takable marks of volcanic origin. The island is subject at intervals to droughts, and during their continuance the inhabitants suffer greatly from want of food and water. The exports are orchilla,* cnstor oil, beans, salt, hides, and goat-skins ; the former article is a government monopoly, and forty thousand dollars are paid by the company for the yearly crop. The goat-skins are sent to the United States and sold at a very profitable rate. Porto Praya is the capital of the island ; it is built on a piece of " table land," and looks much more inviting when viewed from the anchorage than when more closely examined. The houses arc constructed of a rough stone, without any re- gard to symmetry, and very few are over one story in height. The streets are wide, but are not paved, nrr kept clean. A church, a barracks, and a jail, constitute all the prhici- pal public buildings. The interior of the dwellings is in perfect keeping with their external appearance ; a few chairs, a table, and a bedstead or two, are all the furniture which any of them can boast of. The stores are very insignificant, for not only are the assort- ments small, but they are composed of the most common ar- ticles. The population is estimated at 3,000, of which num- ber more than two-thirds are negroes. Tne women are the ugliest we have ever seen. They are fond of gay colors, and their most fashionable head-dress consists of a figured-cotton handkerchief, tied round the head like a Turkish turban. • A species of kelp, or Sea-weed, which, when burned, produces alkaline ashes, used in the manufacture of glass and soap. ST. JAGO CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS. 27 iiie ashes, used The language spoken is a mixture of the Portuguese and the negro dialects. Many of the blacks are slaves, brought from the neighboring coast of Africa, and continue to speak in their mother tongue. They dress in a loose shirt, and sel- dom use a covering of any sort on their heads. Their chil- dren go entirely naked. We have a Consul residing in the town. The climate is not considered healthy for strangers ; it is subject to a fever, similar to that which prevails on the coast of Africa. St. Jago, like the other Cape de Verde Islands, furnishes the Portuguese government with a place of honorable exile for distinguished subjects, whose political opinions may be adverse to the existing institutions. They are aYithout the possession of astronomical knowledge perceives that he is not in Europe, when he sees rising in the horizon the great constellation of the ship, or the phosphorescent clouds of Magellan. In the equinoctial regions, the earth, the sky, and all their garniture, assume an exotic character." About meridian on the 24th, we made the harbor of Rio Janeiro directly ahead. At 4.30 P. M., showed our number together with the rest of the squadron, which was answered by the United States frigate " Independence," the flag-ship of the Brazil station. At 5 we passed Fort St. Cruz, situated at the entrance of the harbor, and in the course of half an .8 80 KIO JANKIUO, nUAZlL. h(Mir more aniv(Ml olV '' Rat Island/' 'svlioro wo lot-go tl 10 \ov '1' aiiol \Vc wovo niiu'li (lisa])])(nn((Ml not to fiml ll)(> " Rc^liof- lioro. riu* nsual piist'.airo for vosscis l)ound. Within tlio last two or thr(>o yoars from two to throo hnndroil Amorioan vc^ssols tako and hrinjjjoariroc^s to and from tho Tnitotl Statos. 'I'hoy brinu; out Hour and ootton goods, and rotnrn loaded with sugar, oofloo, ludiii- ruhbor, modioinos, and spioos of ovory kind. 1 visitod tho oity as often as my duties w(ndd ]>ormit, but it is too wi^ll known to re(|uiro nmoh to bo said of it. It is built on the west sido of tho bay formed bv tho dobouoho of tho river of .)aneir(\ and has a very pioturosijuo appoaranoo from tho water. It is die largosi; and ono of tho most flourishinjr oitios in South Amerioa. At th,^ last oensus Uio .Tanoiro had 2.")0,0()(^ inliabitants. It oontains many rioh ohurohos, two hospitals, besides a misereoordia, a oollego, a museum open twioo a week, two thoatros, ono opera, and several public gardens. Tho population is perhaps more mixed than that of any other oity in tlio world. It oonsists of Europeans, mulattoes, mamalueoes. or a mixed easto, botAvoon whites and aborigines, free negroes born in Rrazil, manumitted Afrioans, mestizoes or zamboes, between tho mamalueoes and negroes, <&.c., &c. The Imperial Palaoo fronts tho Grand Plaza. It is a largo throe-story, stone edifice, with a handsome portico in front. Tho apartments occupied by the royal family are spacious and "^J. uiry, ami riiiiiisli('(| willi rc^nl s])l('ii(l«»r. l{io is indebted for Uiiiiiy (if its inihli*' I»iiil(liiin;s to l).»ii I'nlio I. It was his ambition to nini^e the Ciipital of l>ia/il a, se(iond Lisbim. The appearance of tbe cily on Sundays i.s very iinicb the paiiio as on w<'ek days ; tbe stores d<» business, anil tli(^ work- nliopM arc kept open. A few of tb(; inljaltitants may be seen to attend rtako its duties ; and tbose who do ollieiat*^ are generally ill-instru('te(l. Anotber circumstance wbicli struck me very forcibly was the innn(>nsc luimber of shives* employed a,bout the streets as carriers of coflee and sugar. Tliey go a])out abnost naked, and bear U|»on their Ixxlies tbe ss, jind generally go about in gangs with a leader, Avbo sings Avliile tliey are carrying their loads. The song usually relates to tbeir native country, and they all join in the chorus. 'J'hey constitute a large pro- portion of the population (/f the city. In general, they are kindly treated by their masters, and may purchase their free- dom. Their color operates less to tbeir j)rejudiee than "with us. When free they vote, and arc eligible to a seat in the national legislature, or to any situation in the army a'ld navy. The aqueduct which supplies Rio with water, is a splendid and substantial work. It extends from the city to a reservoir on the summit of Corcovada mountain, distant about twelve miles. This reservoir is supplied ])y the mountain- vapors * rr(»vio\TS to 1H30, tlio number of slavos jiniuiiilly iinporti'il into nrn/.il amoiinled to ilO.OOO. Since tUe prohibition of tlicir inij)orlation the numbers liavc fuUerioff 11,000. 82 RIO JANEIRO, BRAZIL. which the niglit temperature converts into copious rains. The ■water is cool, delightful to the taste, and clear as crystal. There is a navj'-yard at Rio Janeiro. It presents, how- ever, but little activity ; for the Brazillian navy is now dwindled down to a few vessels ; previous to the abdication of Don Pedro 1.* it ^vas large and efficient. The currency is paper, the gold and silver being mere arti- cles of coiumerce, and consequently subjec*" to great fluctu- ation. On the 2()th, the " Relief' arrived. Her officers stated that the great length of the passage was owing more to calms, and variable winds than bad sailing. There were many days during -which she did not make more than a mile on her course. On the ITth, she f<'ll in ^Yith the hull of the brig " Nile," of Rath, both masts gone, Avithin a few feet of the partners, and her hold Avas nearly filled with water. It was evident she had been in this situation for some time ; clu ^ers of shell-fish were fastened to her decks and bulwarks, and long sea-weeds flaunted at her sides. As her bowsprit was sti'.l standing in good condition. Captain Long caused it to be cut away, and taken on board the " Relief." Nothing more occurred during her passage worthy of notice. On the morning of the 27th we hauled up to Enxadas ; landed the provisions and stores, and then proceeded to " smoke ship." We performed this troublesome and disagreeable operation in the hope that we might destroy the roaches, which from the time of our leaving the United States, had been a source of the greatest annoyance to us. Enxadas is also the place where our observatory was erect- * Don Pedro I. ascended the throne in lS-2.2, under the title of Emi)eror of Brazil, After a reign of a few year.a, the violence of political parties rose to such a height, and became so tuimnnagoalile, that the Emperor thought it prudent to abdicate in favor of his son, tlio jiresent Knii)eror. ^Itiiii cd. It is a small rocky isl.iml, situated o]>posito Rio, witli a large dwelling-house standing at one end of it, and a numl)er of other buildings ■which Avere formerly used by shipjung as store-houses. It is at present the property of a wealthy French family, residing in llio Janeiro, but formerly, we were told, it was owned by the church, and the dwelling house above mentioned was a nunnery. December 1st was the anniversary of the Kmperor's birth- day, Don Pedro II. The occasion was celebrated with salutes, illuminations, and fireworks. December 10th. I received orders to relieve Mr. C, on board the " Relief," he being obliged to return to the United States on account of ill health. On the 17th, got under-way, and were towed out the har- bor by boats from the " Independence" and " Porpoise," but the wind failing soon after the boats left, we let-go the anchor to prevent our being drifted on siiore by the tide. At an early hour next morning the breeze sprung up from the south- ward and eastward, and we hove-up the anchor, and stood down the coast. January 2d. The Barometer was observed to fiiU from 29, 81. to 29, 52 ; but the w eather remained pleasant. During the 4th, many birds were seen ; among others, the albatross {diomedia exulans,) giant petrel, cape pigeon, and a species of gull. On the 10th, we passed Cape St. Joseph. This cape is a rough, rocky headland, about 150 feet in height. A large number of guanacos were seen on a neighboring hill, and a great many birds on the beach. At daylight on the 21st, made the land near the strait of Le Maire. At 9 A. M., passed Statcn Land. The aspect of this island is wild and savage beyond description, or even 8^ COAST OF TKRRA DEL FUEGO. ill iiniiarty consisted of fourteen men, and, with the excep- tion of the headman, or chief, were all young, well-formed, and good-looking. The two sons of the chief were particularly so; they were full six feet in height, and had very pleasing coun- tenances. They all had their hair cut short on the crown of the head, leaving a narrow border of hair hanging down ; over this they wear a kind of a cap, or a band, made from the skin of an albatross. The front teeth of all of them were very much worn, more apparent, however, in tlic old than in the young. Their faces were painted, or, more properly speaking, smeared with red and white clay. Their dress consisted of a single guanaco skin, which covered the body from the shoul- ders down to the knees. All had sore eyes, which we attri- buted to their long winters. None of their women or children were seen, but we thought they had them concealed in a piece of -wood not far distant, as they objected to any of us going toward it, and showed much alarm when fire-arms wxre pointed in that direction. They appeared to have very little curiosity, and nothing seemed to excite their surprise; their principal characteristic seemed to be jealousy. It would seem that tliey have had intercourse with Europeans before. The report of our guns did not frigliten them in the slightest degree. We also observed on one of them a string of glass beads. Mi ■i\ Their food consists ]>nnclp;illy of sliell-fish and fish. Their fishing-apparatus is made of the dorsal-fin of a fish, tied to a slip of -whalebone in the form of a barb ; this serves as a hook, and Avith it they obtain their food. All onr endeavors to entice them to come on board by friendly treatment, and the ofi'er of presents, were useless. They shook their heads and pointed to the woods, and then ran some distance from the beach, as if they feared that we intended to carry them off by force. On the l24th we quitted Good Success 15ay. We expe- rienced during this day a strong current, setting northerly. The coast here may be represented as a succession of peaks ; some of which rise so high as to be covered with perpetual snows. The weather was mild and pleasant. On the Soth the wind came out from the southwest, and blew very fresh at intervals. At 5 P. M., anchored off north-eastern side of New Island. After sunset the weather cleared, and we had a very pleasant night. On the following morning, after breakfast, we visited the shore. We saw no human beings, but found near the beach a hut, Avhich bore many traces of being inhabited. It con- tained a large number of muscle-shells, which looked fresh, a part of a seal-skin, and a large heap of ashes. We also observed that the ground about the entrance was hard and destitute of vegetation. The hut was constructed of logs, the lower ends of which were cpread round so as to form nearly a perfect circle, Avhile tlic upper ends leaned against each other. The interstices were filled with earth and grass. In the ocL'^rc was a hole, about two feet in circumference, for the smoke to pass through. The entrance was from the west, and was about three feet in height and two feet wide. We had not time to examine much of the interior of the sli. Their I, tied to a Tvcs us a board by ■e useless. , and then jd that we We expc- northerly. of peaks ; perpetual iwcst, and ihored off le weather sited the ;hc beach It con- 1 fresh, a We also [lard and logs, the nearly a 'h other. In the for the lie west, of the island, but that which did come under our observation pre- sented a scene which we did not expect to witness in so high a latitude. There was an abundance of vegetation, and much more advanced than any which was seen at Good Success Bay. On the -Gth of January we left New Island, and stood to the Avestward. It was very provoking to find that our charts so entirely misrepresented this part of the coast and islands, as to destroy our confidence in them. At 11 A. M., saw what was supposed to be Saddle Island. At meridian it was so hazy that we were unal)lc to obtain a meridian observation, which was greatly needed, in order to ascertain our true position. On tlio 27th, at 2 P. AI., we anchored in a small harbor. At first sight we Avere under the impression that this Avas Orange Bay, but upon further examination Ave f<)und that avc had been deceived ; and at 7 A. M., Lieutenant IJnderAvood Avas dispatched to reconnoitre the coast. In the afternoon Ave t(X)k a stroll on shore. The land for some miles back from the beach Avas low, and the soil ap- peared less fertile than any Ave had yet seen. It bore in spots a small red beny, Avhich had a pleasant flaA'or. Visited a hut, in Avhicli Avas found a knife and a piece of Guernsey frock ; the knife Avas originally a part of an iron-hoop. Tlie hut Avas not in such good preservation as that found on Ncav Island. The Avild goose, the shag duck, and some others of the feathered tribe, AA'ere in great abundance here, r^nd many Avere killed by the scientific gentlemen, and their skins preserved for the gOA^ernment. Found, by an excellent meridian obser- A^ation, the latitude of our anchorage to be ^ij'^ 20' 30" south ; longitude by chronometer ij~° 37' 00" AA'est. At sunset Mr UnderAVOod returned. H ! ''Ill i pip I!, iiii i! 38 ti:rra pel fuego. On the following da}' we quitted tlic harbor above referred to, and coasted along in search of Orange Ba}^ Passed a number of islands, which answered the description given of those in the vicinity of Orange Bay by Captain King. At 6 P. M., camc-to in a large, beautiful ba\ ; it was nearly cir- cular in shape, and was bounded on all sides with undulating hills, covered with evergreen foliage, to their very summits. We had scarcely let-go the anchor when a canoe, with five natives ; three men, a "woman and child, came alongside. Upon invitation two of the men came on board without mani- festing the slightest hesitation or distrust, and we were not a little surprised to find them so entirely different from those we had seen at Good Success Bay. They spoke an entirely different language, were of a Ioav stature, ill-shaped, and wore their hair long. So great, indeed, was the difference that Vfe could no longer doubt that those seen at Good Success were Patagonians, and had in all probability come there in quest of game ; while these were the real Terra del Fuegians. They were not more than five feet high, of light copper- color, which was much concealed by smut and dirt ; indeed, it would be impossible to imagine anything in human nature more filthy and disgusting. They had short faces, narrow foreheads, and high cheek-bones. The hair was long, lank and black, hanging over the face, and was covered with ashes. Their bodies were remarkable, for the great development of the chest and shoulders ; their arms were long and out of proportion ; their legs were small and very much bowed. Tl'o woman was vouno;, but no better-looking than the men. She was seated at one end of the cnnoe, and appeared to take an equal share with the men in the labors of the paddle. We invited her on board repeatedly, but she would not venture ; doubtless she Avas afraid ■>f offending the men, wlio are very * 1 1 III! 1 ,iili!iiii; TERRA DEL FUEGO. 89 referred Passed .a given of iiig. At :arly cir- idulating limits. with, five longside. it mani- re not a those we entirely md wore that we ess were ]uest of copper- indeed, 1 nature narrow ig, lank 1 ashes. Tient of out of bowed, e men. to take We }nture ; re very jealous. The child had an interesting countenance, and was, I should judge, about three years of age, though it was still in arms. It was attired in the same manner as the rest ; a piece of seal-skin, about a foot square, tied around its waist, being all the poor little thing had on to protect it against one of the coldest days that we had yet experienced. Our two friends appeared to be much pleased with their visit ; their countenances and manner plainly indicated the pleasure which they felt on seeing so many new objects. When about to leave, we made them some presents in the way of clothes, with which they all appeared to be greatly pleased, and insisted upon giving us in return some boWs and arrows. It was very amusing to see them in their new dress ; they moved about with strutting affectation of dignity, and gave themselves a thousand consequential airs. Their imitation of sounds was truly astonishing ; we tried them with the flute and guitar, and they followed the sounds correctly. They were also found to be great mimics in action ; anything they saw, they would mimic, and with an extraor- dinary degree of accuracy. They were very talkative, and often burst out into a loud laughter when with each other ; but whenever they discovered that we were watching them, they looked as grave as judges, and said but little. We also observed that they spoke to each other in a whisper. Their arms consisted of bows, arrows, and spears. They use the latter for killing the seal, wliich is found in greut abundance in all the bays, and which they esteem to be excel- lent food. At an early hour next day another canoe, with seven natives, came alongside, and asked permission to come on board ; but finding it could not be granted so early in the day, they paddled off again, and we saw no m.ore of them. i . ! 1^ 'Ill h '! [l; In the afternoon wo visited the shore, and very soon fell in with the natives, who came on board on the day of our arrival. The}'' immediately commenced jumping up and down^ which is their mode of expressing friendship. One of them, who had a pair of pantaloons given him, had them tied round his neck, and anotlier had the skirts of his coat cut off; the reason he assigned for doing so was that they were in his way. Their hut was constructed p^ter the manner of that wo saw at New Island, and bore quite a neat and comfortable ap- pearance. The ground was swept clean, and in the centre a large fire was burning, over which hung a string of fish. The other articles which it contained were some shells, which were carefully laid upon some clean leaves, and the blanket we had given to the woman on the previous day. They seldom cook their food much. The shell-fish are detached from their shell by heat, and the fish are partly roasted in their skins Avithout being cleaned. It was evident that, notwithstanding our kind treatment to these people, we had not gained their confidence ; for, on seeing us approach the hut, the woman fled with her child, nor could we prevail upon the men to cause her to return. As this harbor was not put down on any of the charts in our possession, we believed it to be a discovery, and named it after our ship. On the 30th, we once more got under-way, and after a further search of a few hours, we succeeded in finding Orange Bay. Our observations placed it in latitude bD° 31' 00" south, and longtitude 68° 00' 20" west. It is capacious, easy of access, and better protected from the southwest winds than any place as yet known on the coast of Terra del Fuego. About a mile from the southern shore are two islands, the largest of which is two miles in length, of a moderate height, and called Burnt Island. The land to the southward is rocky i!: TERRA DEL FUEGO. 41 >n fell in arrival. Avhicli is 10 had a is neck, ) reason is "vvav. Ave saw ible ap- centre a 1. The ch were we had •m cook ?ir shell without ur kind idence ; itli her return, larts in imed it ifter a Grange 1' 00" icious, winds s uego. , the leight, rocky and barren, but that to the northward abounds in wood and water. Tlie trees grow nearly down to the water's edge, and some are from sixty to seventy feet in height, having all their tops bent to the northeast by the prevailing southwest winds. The beach Avas covered with rocks of trap formation ; it also abounded in shells, especially in the muscle and petela. On the morning after our arrival, a canoe with six natives, five men and one woman, came oft' to the ship, bringing with them spear-heads and necklaces made of shells, which they readily exchanged for cotton ..andkerchiefs anc* pieces of iron. They were invited to come on board, but at first only one would venture ; this was a young man about nineteen years of age, and rather good-looking. They were evidently of the same race as those we had seen at Relief Harbor ; they spoke the same language, anO resembled them in their features and dress. The woman was eld and extremely ugly, and as mas- culine in her appearance as any of the men. She declined coming on board. Her face was painted black and red in vertical lines, and she wore a necklace made of shells ; her posture while she remained in the boat was that of a squat. Their canoe was made of strips of bark sewed together, and strengthened by ribs and gunwale pieces, and was about twenty-five feet long and three feet wide. The blades of the paddles were so narrow as to be of very little use in a sea way. The bottom of the canoe was covered with a layer of clay, upon which a fire was kept burning. It would seem from the great care they appear to take of their fire, that, when extin- guished, it is no easy matter for them to rekindle it. When this party left the ship, they employed themselves for several hours in fishing amongst the kelp, and then they pulled up towards the head of the bay where their hut was located, and which was found to be quite difterently constructed from lli 42 TERRA DEL FUEGO. any we liad previously seen. It was built of boughs, leaves, and earth ; in shape it resembled a bee-hive, and was imper- vious to wind and snow. The entrance was low and oval- shaped. TJie floor was formed of clay, and in the centre was an excavation which contained the fire. January 31st. Mr. C. with six seamer^ took possession of Burnt Island, for the purpose of making observations on the tide. He met there several of the natives who had visited the ship ; they were out gathering berries, of which one kind grows here in great abundance, and has a very pleasant flavor ; its color is bright red. February 1st, 2d, 3d, and 4th, we experienced strong south- west gales, accompanied with heavy rain. On the 5th, the gale subsided, and the Aveather became mild and pleasant. Mr. C. sent on board a great variety of birds which he shot on Burnt Island, and their skins were preserved for government. February 12th. We experienced more very disagreeable weather. On the 17th, the schooner " Sea Gull " arrived ; she reported the rest of the squadron to be only a few miles off". In the course of February 18th and 19th, the " Vin- cennes," " Peacock," " Porpoise," and *' Flying Fish," arrived and anchored. On the morning of the 25th, the '' Peacock," " Porpoise," and the two schooners Trailed on a cruise to the South Pole. Captain Wilkes took passage in the " Porpoise," and the report is that the " Vincennes " will remain here until his return. At 8 A. M., on the 26th, we got under-w.ay, and stood out through the southern passnge." About 11, passed False Cape Hcia ; and 00.20' P. M., descried the islands of Ildefonsas. ,s\ L ':l!l!iii lilli IS, leaves, IS imper- and oval- he centre session of ations on who had of which LS a very )ng south- 5th, the asant. which he ervcd for lagreeable ved ; she les off. he "Vin- Fish," orpoise," ith Pole, and the until his stood out ilse Cape efonsas. L March 3d. We had fresh breezes from the westward, accompanied with rain and a heavy head sea. The barometer was referred to frc([uently, but was found very fluctuating, and gave no indications of the weather. During the night of the 6th, the wind increased to such a degree as to oblige us to reduce sail to a close-reefed main- topsail and fore-storm staysail. About noon on the 8th, the gale moderated, and we flattered ourselves we should have fine weather once more ; but a little before sunset it began to increase again. During the 10th and 11th, the wind was moderate, but very variable, and accompanied with rain at intervals. In the afternoon of the last mentioned day an albatross was shot, which measured nine feet from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. We caught several smaller ones with hook and line. To kill these, the region of the brain was pierced with a large sewing needle, which produced instant death. At sunset the coast of Terra del Fuego was reported in sight from aloft. On the morning of the 13th an alarm of fire was given ; but it proved to be the igniting of the alcohol of the lamp belonging to the dispensary, and was soon extinguished without doing any damage. March 18th. Finding the wind was increasing, wore ship and reduced sail. At 1.30 P. M., descried Noir Island under our lee ; and soon after the Tower Rocks, a short distance ahead, and on our lee bow. The wind continued to increase ; the waves rose in mountains, and the ship was rapidly drifting towards the coast of Terra del Fuego. To avoid, therefore, being wrecked, after passing Tower Rocks, we hauled up for the southeast point of Noir Island, and at 4.45 P. M., came- to in seventeen fathoms water with both bower-anchors. illHi i|li 44 STORM OFF CAPE HORN. veering on one cable to 105 fathoms, and on the other to 120 fathoms. The following morning, the gale moderating, we began to hope for a favorable change of weather ; but towards sunset the wind shifting to the southward, all hope of such change vanished. The wind now freshened again, and by midnight blew with such force that we let-go our last anchor, in the hope of keeping the ship off shore till daylight, when perhaps we might make sail and stand out to sea. It was so uncom- monly dark, that there was quite as much, and perluips more danger in attempting to get to sea, than in holding on. At daylight we found that the larboard bower-chain had parted, and the larboard sheet become unshackled at forty- five fathoms ; we also found the ship had dragged so as to be much nearer the reef off Penguin Point. The sky grew more angry as the day declined ; — " The setting oi-b in crimson ' seem'd to mourn,' Denouncing greater woes at his return ; And adds new horrors to the present doom, By certain fears of evils yet to come." After the sun went down the storm raged with greater vio- lence than at any previous time. Never had we seen it bloAV so hard before, nor ever beheld such billow's. A little after 8 o'clock the ship commenced dragging, and a tremendous wave came over the bows, which dashed a number of the crew against the masts and guns, and completely inundated the berth-deck. Though, about 9 o'clock, the wind changed its direction, so that the ship tailed clear of the above-mentioned reef, yet we were not rescued from the danger of being ship- wrecked. At every moment the water was becoming more and more shoal. In less than half an hour it shoaled six [III! ISP PASSAGE TO VALPARAISO. 46 e other to ; began to rds sunset cli change f midnight lor, in the n perhaps so uncom- haps more on. -chain had I at fortv- as to be 'eater vio- n it blow ittle after lemendous the crew iated the |anged its lentioned )ing ship- ling more )aled six fathoms, and the storm still raged with unabated fury ; how- ever, to our great delight about midnight it began perceptibly to moderate. We hailed with joy the ray of comfort this afforded us. It was like the arrival of an old friend, whose presence in the hour of misfortune ailbrds consohuion. It was believed tliat we passed within twenty yards of the reef; and had the storm continued a few moments longer we would inevitably have been lost. At 3.30 A. M., the sliip fell-off before the wind, upon which we slipped the remaining cables, made sail, hauled on a wind on the larboard-tack, and stood out to sea,, By 7 A. M. the ship was under whole topsails and inain-top-gallant sail, and was rapidly increasing her distance from the spot, which, only a few hours before, filled every bosom with so many death-like apprehensions. On the 27th, we fell in with the " Montezumn," a whale-ship, from Talcauanaha, bound to Nantucket. Fler captain informed us of the taking of Lima by the Chilian army. He also pre- sented us with a quantity of vegetables, for which he received our warmest thanks. We had not tasted anything of the kind since we left Rio Janeiro. During the night, the breeze became very light. April 4th. We captured with the hook seven albatrosses ; the plumage of two of which was extremely beautiful. This is the best mode of taking them when the ship has but little head-way. Two were prepared for dinner, but they were far from being good eating, the flesh being very tough and fishy. At dayhght on the 13th, we made the coast of Chili on our lee-bow, and at 7 Mount Quillota bore per compass north 60^ east. In the afternoon sent Lieutenant Underwood into Valparaiso to procure an anchor. At an early hour on the ill i :i'ii I! !| j| following morning he returned, and reported there was a chain-cable in the government stores, but no anchors ; the only one to be obtained belonged to H. II. M. sliip " Presi- dent," which Captain Lock kindly offered us the loan of. Received the anchor on board, and got it ready for letting go. On the 15th, we came-to in the roads of Valparaiso ; — " Where Valparaiso's cliffs and flowers, In niirrorM wililness, sweo}) Their shadows round the mermaid's bower, Our steadfast anchors sleep." On the sg-me day the American ship " Meriposa" from New York, with stores for the squadron, arrived. Her master was kind enough to send us a large file of newspapers, all of which we read with infinite satisfaction. CHILI AND VALPARAISO, 47 ro was a lors ; the » '' Prcai- ! loan of. etting go. so; — CHAPTER III. CHILI ANI] VALPARAISO. from New laster was 1 of which Chili is 'vashed on the west by the Pacific Ocean ; on the east bounded by the Cordilleras ; on the south by Patagonia ; and on the ncrth by Bolivia. Like all other parts of South America, it is subject to earthquakes ; deep ravines may be seen intersv.'^ting the surface in all directions. The appear- ance of the coast is far from being inviting, especially in the vicinity of Valparaiso ; but there are in the interior many extensive and fertile valleys. The southern part is admirably adapted to the growth of wheat, of ^>'hieh large quantities are now raised. Chili is also rich in mineral productions ; copper ore is found in the mountains in the greatest abundance. The climate is variable — the southern part being, on account of its higher southern latitude, considerably colder. At Val- paraiso the mean temperature at midday is (jo°, in the even- ing and morning 60°. During the winter, which commences the first of May and ends in September, the rains sometimes last for two or three days, and during their continuance the rivers swell to three or four times their us 'al size. Earthquakes are sometimes very violent — that of 1835 nearly destroyed the towns of Talcahuana, Aranco, Talca, and Conception. At Valparaiso the sea receded two feet, and the ground was much rent. In order to lessen the destruction of human life, the houses are usually built low and of light material. j ; 48 CHILI AND VALPARAISO. The population of the republic is estimated at one million and a half. The capital is St. .Ja|:;o, ^vhieh is situated at the foot of the Cordilleras, and distant about sixty miles from VaI[)araiso. All of our officers Avho visited it were delighted with it. A long line of turrets, domes, and spires, occasionally screened by intervening trees, plunted along its numerous avetmes, indicated the city. The population is 00,000. It has a national college, a military academy, various private semi- naries for both sexes, an extensive hospital, and several hand- some churches. Valparaiso is the next largest town in the republic, and is one of the most flourishing places in the Pacific. In 1820 it consisted of fifteen or twenty huts, and now it contains eight or nine thousand buildings, and individual houses fetch an annual rent of more than three thousand dollars. Its principal street runs parallel with the beach — is tolerably wide, and contains many large and commodious shops, well supplied with English goods and various other kinds of merchandise. The remain- ing streets are paved, but are narrow and winding. The public buildings consist of the churches, the Governor's palace, and the custom-house. The dwellings are slightly built, and never more than two stories high, on account of the earthquakes, and in general have a wooden balcony in front. There are many Americans and English living in the city, who carry on a lucrative business, the export trade being mostly monopolized by them. They reside on the hill in the rear of the business part of the town, in neat white cottages, surrounded by flower-gardens. This is the most pleasant part of the city, and commands a fine view of the har- bor. From here may be seen the vessels of the United States, England, France, Holland, Denmark, and Sweden, ic uiillion bot of the alparaiso. til it. A y screened ; avenues, It has a v'ate semi- oral hand- )lic, and is In 1820 it ins eight or an annual cipal street id contains th English he reniain- r. The jovernor's re slightly ccount of )alcony in ring in the I'ade being lill in the cottages, pleasant the har- ie United Sweden, CHILI AND VALPARAISO. 49 displaying their gay Hags and mingling their bright streamers in the brilliant eftulgenee of a cloudless sky. The police of V ali»araiso is celebrated for its efficiency. Good order and deconiin )M-evail everywhere. Crime is rarely heard of, and never suffered to go unpunished. The credit of forming this institution is given to Portale-, a man of rare talents and great energy of character. It consists of two distinct bodies, one mounted, and the other on foot ; the former patrol the streets on horseback, while the latter watch over a particular ward or district, for which they are held responsible. They wear a uniform and a sword, to distin- guish them from the other citizens. The market is well supplied. Fruits and vegetables are abundant and cheap ; the grapes, peaches and pears are of the best kinds. Beef is as good :vs we have at home. There is also a great variety of fish. The population is estimated at 34,000, and is rapidly mcreasmg. The principal seaports of Chili arc Valdavia, Talcahuano, Copiapo, Coquimbo, Chiloe, and Guasco. Talcahuano and VaUlavia we have in particular heard represented as most eligible places for vessels which visit these seas, to touch at. As for Valparaiso, it is not a good seaport ; it is entirely exposed to the ocean from the north, so that, when the winxl blows with violence from that quarter, which is the case during the winter season, a heavy sea sets into it, and renders the anchorage highly dangerous. It is, however, more frequented than any other harbor. Vessels make it a point to stop here, whatever may be their destination. The common people of Chili are a mixed race, sprung from the union of the Spaniards with the native Indian women. They are generally well made, of a dark brown complexion, 50 CHILI AND VALPARAISO. and have a healthy look. They bear the best character of any of the South Americans. They are honest, industrious, and brave. The men are good riders, and very skillful in the use of the lasso. The women have very pretty feet and hands. Their habitations are built of reeds, plastered with mud and thatched with stra., . The poncho is universally worn by the men ; it is a piece of cloth of a homo manufacture, of the shape of an oblong square, with a hole in the middle, through which the head is passed, the longer ends hanging down to the knees before and behind — the shorter at each side falling over the shoulders. Their favorite am-isements are the two dances. Fandango and Sama Cueca. The latter is performed in cities and large towns at the Ciiingano ; the performers are usually a young man and woman, gaudily attired ; they stand on a kind of stage, and begin the dance by facing each other, and flirting handkerchiefs over each other's heads — then they approach and retreat alternately — occasionally they dart off on each side. The whole is well calculated to display the graces of a fine figure to the best advantage. Its moral tendency may be questioned. Some of the gestures are quite lascivious, and may be easily understood by every one who witnesses the scene. The music is executed altogether by females, and consists of the harp, the castanets, and th^ guitar. They also add to this a national love-song, sung in Spanish, which the audience seem to enjoy more than any other part of the per- formance. The higher classes are of a pure Spanish blood, and are intelligent and courteous ; they pass their evenings in small social assemblies, called Tertulias. The women cannot bo said to be beautiful, but they are virtuous and amiable. They are fond of dancing and music, in both of which they excel. vlji'l: 'ii'tl', er of any ious, and 1 the use hands, vith mud worn by re, of the , through wn to the Hint; over Pandango and large y a young I kind of id flirting approach on each aces of a y may be ious, and esses the ales, and rhey also hich the the per- and are in small kannot be le. They ley excel. Nearly every house is furnished with a piano. They dress ■with much taste, and in the Parisian style. The men have been accused by cravclers of being indolent ; no doubt such was the case when they were under the Spanish rule, and had no inducement to be otherwise, but I have been assured by foreign gentlemen, who have resided in the country for the last fifteen years, that such is not their character at the present day ; on the contrary, they are industrious and enterprising. The religion of Chili is the Catholic ; but the government has repudiated the interference of the Pope in the appointment of bishops and arch-bishops. The clergy have great influence over the people, and much political power in the state ; but they are liberal in their notions of government, and encourage the diffusion of knowledge amongst the lower classes. Commerce has more than doubled within the last ten years. According to the statistical accounts of the past year, Val- paraiso alone exports thirty thousand hides. Grain is sent to Peru and Equador in large quantities. Six hundred quintals of wool are shipped annually from Conception. Cop- per, hemp and platina are largely exported. The iron mines are also sources of great wealth, and the miners annually ex- tract vast quantities of the ore ; indeed, there is no doubt that Chili is blest with all the elements necessary to make her a powerful commercial nation. The army which was sent to invade Peru in the war just concluded, is said to have consisted of 8,000 men, and to have been well appointed. The navy is larger, and by far more efficient, than that of any of the other South American States. The prospects of education are bright. There are several good colleges in the npublie, and connuon schools are being established in all the towns for the instruction of the lower 52 CHILI AND VALPARAISO. classes ; and tlie system of education introduced into the schools and colleges is said to be superior. The administration of puljlic affairs is better conducted than in any otiier counti'y in South America. Generally speaking, the magistrates are men of ability and integrity, and nowhere else are life and property better protected. Uni- versal suffrage is granted by the laws of the constitution to every one above twenty-five years of age, and no public measure can be carried which is adverse to the welfare of the masses. On the 28th of April, General Joaquim Prieto, President of Chili, arrived from St. Jago. He was received by the inhabitants Avith all due respect. The civil authorities and the military went several iniles out of the city to receive him ; the batteries saluted, and the streets through Avhich he passed were decorated with flags and evergreens. On the evening of the 30th, we attended a ball given by the citizens of Valparaiso, in honor of the recent victory of Yungai over the Peruvians. It was a brilliant affair, equaling any- thing of the kind we ever witnessed in the United States, or any other part of the world. The place selected for it was a space between two large buildings ; temporary arches were erected over head, and the whole was covered with an awning, lined with blue and studded with stars. The room was brilliantly lighted by handsome chandeliers suspended from the arches over head ; the floor was carpeted, and the pillars which supported the roof were decorated with emblems of the victory and nation. At the upper end there was a transpa- rency of General Bulncs, the hero of Yungai, surrounded with scrolls of his deed's. On the sides were hung paintings and rich mirrors, in which hundreds of lights were reflected, while the national flags, formed into festoons, intermixed with x ito the [iducted enerally itegrity, I. Uiii- ution to ) public ■e of the ^resident I by the s and the Liun; the e passed jen by the Yuiigai mg any- tates, or it was a les "were awning, oom was ed from le piUars ns of the transpa- rrounded paintings eflected, xcd with CHILI AND VALPARAISO. 68 wreaths of flowers and evergreens, encircling emblematic de- signs of the nation's glory, produced an effect that was truly beautiful. The president's reception-room and the card-rooms were also very handsomely decorated. The company amounted to five hundred, of whom about one-fourth "\fere ladies ; many native and foreign officers were present, dressed in their uni- forms. At 10 o'clock the ball was opened by the president in person. He was dressed in a richly- embroidered coat, gold epaulettes, and a field-marshal's sash. He is a fine- looking man, about fifty years of age. He danced a minuet with a lady of Valparaiso, after which the dancing became general, consisting of waltzes, contra dances, quadrilles, and the sama cueca. The music was very fine, and many marches and national airs were played during the intervals between the dances. The ball did not break up until 8 o'clock, at which hour the president was escorted home by a procession of the dancers. His unblemished private character, together with the success of his policy toward the Peruvian govern- ment, have rendered him extremely popular with all classes of society. I'll ii lii 1 i 1 1 I ,'ltl| ! 54. CALLAO AND MMA. CHAPTER IV. CALLAO AND LIMA. On the 1st of May we sailed for Callao, where we arrived after a passage of twelve days. Nothing of interest occurred during this period. The wind most of the time was favorable, and the weather warm and pleasant. We found in port the United States ship " Lexington," belonging to the Pacific squadron; also the Chilian fleet, a.aounting to ten sail, commanded by Admiral Blanco, an English and a French frigate, and about fifty merchant ves- sels, six of which were American. Callao, the seaport of Lima, is celebrated for its safety and convenience. The island of St. Lorenzo shelters it from the swell of the ocean to the west, and there is no danger from any other direction. The Mole afibrds every facility for landing goods from the boats. Water is conducted to the Mole by an aqueduct, and a railway conveys the goods to the far-famed fortress,* which is now converted into a depot. There are ?. number of sentries stationed on the Mole night and day for the double purpose of preserving order among the boatmen, and to aid the custom-house in preventing smuggling, which, notwithstanding, is carried on to an extent that is ♦ It was here that the last stind of the royalist was made in New Spain ; and it was in the same castle that the hrave Ilodil, with a handful of devoted followers defended themselves with heroic courfige against the insurgents in 1826. Surrounded, but not dismayed, they still kept their assailants at bay, until famine stalked before them, and they were forced to yield. History tells us that horse-meat sold among the be» sieged for a gold ounce the pound, and a chicken for its weight in the same pre« cious metal ! arrived )ccurred ^vorable, ington," in fleet, Mico, an lant ves- fety and from the rer from |ility for to the s to the depot. >le night lOng the uggling, that is and it was rs defended lunded, but lefore them, png the be» same pre* CALLAO AND LIMA. 53 hardly credible. This is cflfected by the owner of the goods bribing the custom-house officials. The town is situated several miles from the site of old Callao,* and numbers about five tliousand inhabitants. It has not much to recommend it. The only well-built houses are those on the main street. The churches and other public buildings are too insignificant to deserve description. The market is held in a large open square. Oranges, apples, figs, grapes, granadillas, and cliirimoyas, are abundant in their season. Vegetables of every sort are also to be had. Beef is cut into small pieces io suit the purchasers, and poultry is cut up in a similar manner ; the former is killed in the outskirts of the town, and the hide, head and entrails are left for the buzzards, which are very numerous and pro- tected by law ; the rest of the carcase is brought to market on the backs of donkeys. The inhabitants are addicted to gambling, and pass most of their time at the billiard -rooms and monte-tables. The old castle claimed our attention ; it covers a large ex- tent of ground, and its walls are high and very massive. One of the officers lold us that it was capable of quartering ten thousand troops. It was once looked upon as the key of the country. Whichever party had it in possession, were con- sidered masters of Peru. As I have already remarked, it is now used as a depot for goods, and is nearly dismantled — only five of the guns remain out of the 140 which it mounted ; the metal of these is brass, and their proportions are beautiful. The garrison consisted of eight hundred men. I cannot say much for their personal appearance ; they were quite short, * Old Callao was destroyed by the memorable earthquake of 1746. In the same earthquake a first-class frigate, lying in the harbor, was lifted several hundred feet and carried inland a considerable distance, where a monument was erected to com- memorate the event. m I' liad an aAvkward gait, and dull, stupid countenances. If tliey are a fair specimen of the soldiers of the country, it is no won- der tliat tlic Chilians have been able to conquer it so easily. The distance from Callao to Lima is about eight miles, and stages run bet^Yeen the two places almost every hour in the day ; the fare is one dollar. The road leads over a plain, but it is not kept in good repair, and is, besides, very dusty, on account of the extreme dryness of the climate. In this part of Peru, there are heavy dews, but no rain. We had an opportunity of visiting the " City of the Kings"* several times. We went up in the coaches, and.ahvays set out at an early hour, that ^ve might avoid the heat of the sun and the dust. Daring the first ten or fifteen minutes of the ride, we saw nothing to interest us, for avc were passing through the filthy streets of Callao, and its still more filthy outskirts. Of all tlie places we have as yet visited, civilized or uncivilized, Callao has been the most filthy and disgusting. When about two miles out, we passed Bella Vista, which, ever since the revolution, has been in ruins. We next came to the so-called half-way house, where the drivers invariably stop to rest the horses, and to regale them- seves Avitli a glass of pisco from its dirty pulperia. This part of the road was formerly infested by banditti, and no one thought of appearing on it without being well armed ; but now this is not necessary, as the police has taken steps to disperse the robbers. .Resuming our course, we soon reached a section of country * The name bestowed on the infant capital was Ciirdail de los Pegjes, or City of Kings, in honor of the da}-, liaing the 6th of January, 1535, the festival of Epipliany, when it was said to liave been lounded by Pizarro. But the Castilian name ceased to be w^uil even within the first generation, and was su])phinted by that of Lima, into which the original Indian name was corrujited by the Spaniards.— /Vesro/<".s' (Jonquest of Pnru, vol. ii. • =Jj tj^ If they no won- easily. lilcs, and ir in the )lain, but lusty, on this part Kings"* )-s set out 3 sun and the ride, rough the irts. Of icivihzed, len about since the ivhere the Je them- [1iis part no one but now disperse country or City of Epiphany, Iceased to be into which \iest of Peru, J laid out in gardens, filled with all \inds of fruit-trees, shaded walks, lined on either hand with stone seats, and intersected with running streams of water. It is the usual evening-drive of the Limineans, and a delightful one it is. In a few minutes more we found ourselves passing under the great gate of the city. Its aspect is that of rapid decline ; there is no stir or life among the inhabitants ; many of the shops are closed, and hundreds of houses are untenanted, and in a state of decay. The streets are broad and paved, and many of them have a stream of water running through their centre. It is not, how- ever, a clean-looking city, for these streams are used for very disgusting purposes, and buzzards are seen feeding all over the city. The style of building is well adapted to the climate and nature of the country. Most of the dwellings are of two stories, with a spacious court in front ; the main object of these courts, is to ailbrd the inhabitants a place of refuge when the city is threatened with earthquakes, which is a very fre- quent occurrence. The material employed in the construction of the walls, is sun-burnt brick. The roofs are perfectly flat, and the ground-floor is used as store-rooms and stables. The population is estimated at 40,000. In the time of the Viceroys, it is said to have been 70,000. The Grand Plaza contains several acres, and should be visited by the stranger, if he wishes to form a correct idea of a life in Lima. From sumise till sunset it is filled with people. On two sides of the Plaza stand the portales, or arcades, where all kinds of dry -goods and fancy articles are sold. The cathedral and the arch-bishop's palace occupy the east side of the plaza, and that of the viceroy's the south side ; this last has now become the residence of the presidents, and, although it covers a great extent of ground, there is 68 LIMA. notliinjx \vY\ uttrnctivo in i(s arcliitcctiiro. Tlic fountain in the contiv ol" llio ])l;r/.a is a f^plmdid \iwcc of ^V()^k, and was CTOctod, accordinj!; to the insi'ription, in 1 ()()(), by Don Onrcia SarniicMito Sottmiayor, the tlion Niooroy, and (';ii)tain-Gonoral of Poni. In this phiza, tlio Saya y Manta, or the poonliar dress of the Lima hidies, is seen to the best a(ivantag(\ It is certainly a verv bewitc'liiniJi; attire, for it betrays the whole outline of the female fio;ure ; niMiher does it conceal the foot and ankle, ■which, ■when ]U'ettily shaped, (and those of the Liminean ladies are rarely other^Yise,) are a charming sight, especially to bachelors ; but, on the other hand, the Saya y INIanta otVers strong inducements to carry on a love-intrigue, and for that reason Avas once put under the ban of a legislative statute. It still survives, however, and is •worn by the ladies of the best families. It consists of a kind of hood and a petticoat, both usually made oi^ black satin, with numerous vertical folds. The manta, or upper garment, is fastened at the waist, and is so gathered over the head and shoulders as to conceal every thing but the ridit eve and the right liand. The disguise is so complete that a laisband may meet his wife in the streets, or auy of the i>ublic i^laces, witliout being able to recognize her; and it is, uo doubt, too true, that it has been the means of destroying the peaco and happiness of many a Liminean familv. It is asserted that the original hitention of this singu- lar costunu-, was t<> enable a lady to go out in the morning to mass, or shopping, before she made her toilet. The Almeda is extensive and handsomelv laid out. The walks are lined with rows of willows on each side ; its centre is ornamented with fountains, and artificial streams of water run parallel with the walks. Towards evening it is very much resorted to bv the ladies and irentlenien, and I have seen ft' * V > miam in uiid was n (larcia -Genoral dross of certainly inc of the III ankle, ?au ladies ?cially to nta orters i for that itute. It the best coat, both al folds, ist, and is al every s«i;iuse is le streets, recognize 10 means iiniinean us smgu- orning to It. The \ts centre I of "svater is very Kvve seen Pizarro. Lima Costuims. t 1 LIMA. 59 there some cf the former, who were really beautiful. Tho women of Lima are usually handsome, but their minds arc neglected, nor are their morals what they should be. There are other sights in Lima well worth seeing ; among the rest, the Convent of St. Francisco, which covers about eight acres of ground. In former times it must have been equal to anything of the kind in the world. Its cloisters are ornamented with fountains and flower-gardens, and the chapels are rich in gilding and carved-work. Part of the con- vent is now occupied as barracks, and the soldiers' muskets are stacked on the altars of several of the chapels. We observed in the church a shrine and an image of St. Benedict, with a jet-black infant Saviour in his arms ! There are but few Friars here at present, but in the days of its prosperity there were four hundred connected with it, and had an income suited to the easy and luxurious style in which they lived. Its collec- tions of paintings have been highly spoken of by connoisseurs. I attended the theatre several times ; il^ is a spacious, handsome edifice, and seemed to be well supported, although the performances were of a very ordinary character. The acting-president, Lafuente, was present each time, dressed in his uniform ; but he did not appear to receive much attention from the audience, and I was subsequently told that he was not generally popular with the people, as he was in favor of the Chilians, and, in fact, owed his present position to them. He has the Spanish features, and appears to be about fifty years of age. The ladies in the galleries wore the saya and manto, and made great display in ornaments. During our stay in Lima there were no bull-baits, although it is a common and a favorite amusement with all classes of society. The present state of Peru is far from being promising, i'^ 60 PRKSKNT STATK OK PKRU. ! 'i we may be allowcy force in the Presidential-chair by the Chilians, was removed. The most uncompromising hostility is evinced by the Bolivian government towards the administration of this president ; and we were assured, both by intelligent natives, and foreigners, that until he shall be banished from the country, no reconciliation of affairs can take place between the two governments. The English, also, were very clamorous, and threatening to sieze upon the revenue of the country, if their claims were not speedily attended to. Indeed, it seemed to have every trouble before it. The people are as yet in infancy as regards self-govern- ment. Instead of taking matters in their own hands, they allow themselves to be governed by a faction of military men, whose only desire is their own self-aggrandizement. A few months since they met to make some new elections, but they allowed Gamara to overthrow them, and by force of arms destroy their ballot-boxes ; and nothing is more common than to hear of officers being exiled, and rich citizens stripped of their wealth, merely for their political opinions. Nor is this all : — The depraved morals of the church are proverbial in Peru ; and there is scarcely a crime perpetrated, of which its members are not guilty. Even on the Sabbath the priests may be seen resorting to the theatres, billiard-rooms and gambling-houses. The public revenue of this fine country is imposed in the most oppressive manner, and impoverishes the people from whom it is collected. The hordes of robbers it II ji lil fd dur- is still jitants. nd, the Liid war ;ent in- al- chair ■omising irds the m1, both shall be 3an take Iso, were ^enue of nded to. cfovern- ds, they iry men, A few but they of arms [ion than ippcd of r 19 this rbial in ,yhich its priests ms and untry is shes the Ibbers it LOSS OF TIIK SKA-GULL. 01 nourished during the revolutionary war, still continue to annoy its peace ; and there is, perhaps, no country in the world where murder and robbery are so prevalent. Until a better state of things be b.ought about, its improvement is hopeless. On the 11th of June, the " Porpoise" arrived from \'al- paraiso. She reported that the " Vincennes," " Peacock," and " Flying Fish," were to have followed her in a few days. As for the " Sea-Gull," she had not been seen or heard from since the time she was separated from the *' Flying Fis1i" in a storm off Cape Horn. On the loth, the " Peacock" arrived, and the Unite■■*•■. 72 ISLAND OF AURORA. variety; they invariably presented the same uniform ap- pearance, the same uniform flatness, the same scenery. September 10th. This morning "vvo found ourselves in sight of the island of Aurora. In many places the coast of this island rises abruptly and precipitately from the sea to the height of six or seven hundred feet ; the interior is diversified ■with hill and dale, thus forming a pleasing contrast to the dull and monotonous scenes we had been accustomed to for some time past. The soil in the valleys is fertile, and produces abundance of s^Yeet potatoes, yams, and tarro, as also several kinds of fruit. The inhabitants are of a Tahitian extraction, and like them have embraced Christianity, and established schools. All the men we saw, and most of the women, were tattooed. In trading with them, wo found that they preferred old clothes and cotton-stuifs to anything else. They took us for mis- sionaries at first, and I believe that many of them are of that opinion still, a circumstance which shows that their intercourse with the whites has been confined to that class of men. In- deed, this can never be very extensive, as the island affords no harbors. "When the boats which had been sent ashore to take some observations, returned, we made all sail again, and stood for Tahiti. " Huzza for Otaheite ! was the cry, As stately swept the gallant vessel by ; The breeze springs up, the lately flapping-sail Extends its arch before the growing gale.'* ARRIVAL AT TAHITI. orm ap- I' s in sight t of this ?a to the [iversified ) the dull for some produces 30 several and like , schools. tattooed. Id clothes for mis- re of that itercourse en. In- ffords no ike some Istood for CHAPTEii. VI. FROM ARRIVAL AT TAHITI TO DEPARTURE FOR TUTUILLA. At 5 P. M., September 12th, we at length reached Tahiti, and anchored in Matavai Bay, in fourteen fathoms water. The shores of this island, as far as we could see, were well clothed with the tropical trees peculiar to Polynesia, but the interior appeared very uneven, and was almost destitute of other vegetation than that of grasses. Many of these hills are very curiously shaped — some are conical, some pyramidal, others castellated. A coral-reef, with occasional openings, surrounds the island. Between this and the shore there is a continuous channel for boat-navigation, and on the northern side there are many safe and commodious harbors for large vessels. The fertile portion of the island lies in the valleys, and in the plain which extends from the sea-shore to the base of the mountains. These produce tropical plants in great abundance and luxuriance, and are well w^atcrcd. The cottages of the natives are to be found in retired and beautiful spots. They are indolent, but are mild and amiable people. We had no sooner let-go the anchor than we were environed with canoes, laden with poultry, pigs, tarro, yams, bananas, cocoa-nuts, via apples and oranges. Yet, notwithstanding this profusion, we found everything very dear. There were from two to three men in each canoe, few only had any women Is I I 4'^i ! J "lii' '. in them, and those, if v,q may be allowed to juide in a whale-boat, and it was soon found that his visit was not one of mere cere- mony, but Avas intended to engage our washing, a business which is monopolized by the chiefs. He is a large, fine-looking man, about 45 years of age. He was dressed in a striped cotton-shirt, nankeen pantaloons, and a round jacket of blue cloth. He has a large establishment near Point Venus, and he invited the ofTicers to come there whenever they visited the shore. About dusk some dozen women, of a cliaracter similar to those above alluded to, came alongside, and applied for per- mission to come on board, but finding their request could not be granted they returned to the shore again. Several of these females were certainly not more than tw^elve or thirteen years of age. Were all visitors to act in like manner, these de- praved females would not be so numerous as they are at present ; but, I regret to say, that the opposite course is usu- ally pursued. It is due to the missionaries to state such facts, for they certainly add very much to their other difficulties, in trying to improve tlie moral and rehgious condition of the natives. Who will deny that bad example may not prove even more potent than the most wholesome teachings 1 ? .■ September l-'^ith. This luorniiii^ the sick :vero sent on shore, ^vhere they -will have more comforts than it is possible for tliem to receive on l)oanl the ship. The climate here is said to be unconnnonly salubrious, and invalids coming from other ])!irts rapidly recover their health. After ([uarters Ave p;avc the natives permission to come on board with their merchandise. Some supposed this would have a tendency to make them reduce somewhat their exorbi- tant prices, as it would give rise to competition ; it however produced no such efiect. Among other articles they brought on board Avere several kinds of shells, which wc had not seen before. Some of them had also pearls for sale. They pro- cure these when they are employed by European vessels that are engaged in that trade. In the afternoon I took a walk on the road leading to Pa- peite, the cnpital of the island, situated about seven miles to the westward of Matavai, I found the traveling exceedingly bad, until I reached what is called " One-tree Hill." The road, or rather path, diflieult thus fiir from its steepness and ruggedness, was rendered infinitely more so by the recent rains. In some places it was so slippery that I was forced to make use of my hands as well as feet. With the remainder of the walk I was highly delighted. I sauntered along over a broad, level road, lined on either side with groves of the orange and bread-fruit trees, sprinkled with the habitations of the natives, and intersected by numerous streamlets. Indeed, the scene was one of the most beautiful I ever beheld. The houses were all constructed in the primitive style, which consists of an oval-shaped roof, supported by round sticks, from two to three inches in diameter, placed some dis- tance apart, so as to allow^ a free admission of air. '.eat grass paths, fringed with flowers, from the pure white to the I I.: lilt I; ■ jlii'i' ''' !: I '. ''I ■II ; t 76 ISLAND OF TAHITI. bright red and yellow, and filling the air with their sweet odors, lead from one house to the other through the groves, while the surrounding trees were literally alive with songsters of every plumage imaginable. I entered several of the dwellings, and was received by the inmates in the kindest manner. They treated me with the milk of the fresh cocoa-nut and several varieties of fruits. I did not see any cultivated land besides the little patches attached to each house ; these were planted with sweet pota- toes, yams, and tarro. On returning I called in at our observatory, erected on Point Venus.* There were great numbers of men and women assembled around it — the latter dressed in their best, and evi- dently come to see and to be seen. Though many of them were young, 1 observed none whose looks were deserving of the high encomiums passed on them by the generality of for- mer voyagers. There is a kind of languor about their eyes that may be pleasing to some, and their feet and hands are also small, but their figures are snort, and the features are too gross to be called handsome. A large number had their heads decorated with wreaths composed of Cape jasmine and orange flowers. September 15th. It being Sunday to-day, the crew were F' at to the native chapel to attend divine service. Our chap- iam performed the service, with the aid of Mr. Pratt, one of the resident missionaries. This chapel is oval in shape and spacious, and plastered, and white-washed on the outside ; the roof is made of plaited reeds, and covered with the leaves of the pandanus. The windows are furnished with blinds, but * It was hero that Captain Cook erected his Observatory. It is a low, narrow tongue of land running out northward from the island, and is thickly covered with cocca-nut trees. iU. I I iMihMUiM^M^a sweet rroves, igsters by the th the fruits. )atche3 ; pota- 1 Point women nd evi- f them ving of of for- ir eyes ire also are too heads orange w were ' chap- one of e and )'y the ives of IS, but narrow Ired with ISLAND OF TAHITI. 77 remain unglazed, as free circulation of air is here desirable at all times. The interior is well supplied w^th benches, ar- ranged in rows, so as to face the pulpit at the side. There is no steeple to it. Near by the ciiapel is the residence of the Rev. Mr. Wil- son, the only survivor of the missionaries who first came to the island. Notwithstanding his great age, he continues to enjoy good health, and to watch over the spiritual welfare of his flock, which I understand is largo. It is worthy of remark, that altliough the day has been Sunday with us, it has been Monday with the people a-shore, a circumstance to be attributed to the first missionaries (who arrived here by the way of the Cape of Good Hope) not having made a proper allowance for the gain of time. September 20th. This morning the "Vincennes" got under-way, and ran up to Papeite. The females here have certainly a very great passion for singing. Every evening they assemble in great numbers down by the water-side, and sing away for hours. Last night it was 2 A. M., ere they ceased. This would be a great annoyance to us were their voices unmusical, but they are not. More soft, rich and clear voices we have never heard in any part of the world. Besides, they do not confine themselves to their national songs, but occasionally, as if they wished that we should share with them in their innocent amusement, strike up some one of our own which they have learned from the whalers, and which seemed to be as familiar to them as to any of us. Papiete, September 24th. We arrived here a little after meridian. When about two miles from the anchorage of Ma- tavai, we passed tw'O white-plastered buildings, shaded with a variety of trees, one oi them, we were informed by the pilot, was the house of the queen ; the other, the building in 78 ISLAND OF TAHITI. which the remains of the Kings Pomare II. and III. "svere deposited. The next object that attracted our attention was the ruins, of the great chapel erected by Pomare II., after his conversion to Christianity. Tiie original size of this building is said to have been immense. The anchorage of Papiete is much superior to that of Ma- tavai. There, "svhen the wind blows fresh from the seaward, vessels are exposed to a very heavy and dangerous swell ; here they lay perfectly protected from both sea and wind. Indeed, there is but one objection to Papiete harbor — its entrance is so very narrow, that unless there be a fair breeze it is not accessib'ie. The town stretches around the curvature of the shore form- ing the harbor, and presents many evidences of civilization. Many of the houses are built in the European style, and the native church is really a fine building. Several of these houses are owned by nati^^es, but they rarely occupy them themselves, as they prefer those constructed in the primitive style, vwhich, indeed, are better adapted to the climate of the island. They keep them to rent out to foreigners. , The adjacent country does not differ materially from that about Matavai. In the centre of the harbor there is a charming little island, upon which the Tahitian national standard was waving to the breeze as we entered. This flag displays a white star on a red field, and owes its origin to the missionaries. The people here promise to be less troublesome than those were about Matavai. We have seen but few of them alongside, and none on board. Soon after we came to anchor, we received a present from the queen, consisting of pigs, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and other products of the islands. I. were lie ruins. [iversion said to of xMa- leaward, ? swell ; d wind, bor — its r breeze re form- ilization. and the of these py them )rimitive e of the om tliat ) island, g to the )n a red Ic here llatavai. board. lit from d other I understand that yesterday Captain Wilkes had an inter- view with the principal chiefs, and succeeded in forming a commercial treaty with tliem, which promised to be highly advantageous to both nations. October 3d. During these past four or five days nothing remarkable has transpired. This evening some dozen natives came on board, and gave us one of their old dances. After tht'v had seated themselves round in a ring, they commenced making a kind of grunt, or noise, made by the throat and nostrils, accompanied with motions of the arms and fingers, by throwing them about in all directions. This they continued for some minutes, when the noise gradually became louder and louder, and the gestures more violent, until at last they wrought themselves to the highest pitch of excitement, and looked as if it was the greatest efibrt to keep it up ; every blood-vessel was much swollen, and the perspiration ran in streams down their faces. At this time two of the party sprung up into the middle of the ring and began dancing, and making all sorts of grimaces and most violent licentious motions of the body ; the noise still increasing, all the others rose up in the same manner. It now appeared to have attained its highest pitch ; it became by degrees less and less, until it almost died away, when they kicked up their heels and fell on deck, which was the signal that they had finished. October Gth. This afternoon Pomaro Taire, or the king- consort, arrived from Eimeo, where he has been residing for some time past. He came in a small fore-and-aft schooner. When Pomare III., only surviving son of Pomare IT., died, he was succeeded, in the supreme authority of the islands of Tahiti, Eimeo, &c., &.C., by the present queen, under th(^ style of Pomare Vahina IV. cf Tahiti.'^ She is about 28 years of * The Crown is hercditirv — loscendins either to m;.,lcs (ir females. 'li; 1 * r^r-nt aud Las been twice married — the first time to o- young cLlcf of Taha, from whom she was divorced. She was mar- ried to her present husband about two years since, and thus far the union has proved a happy one. She has several chil- dren, one of whom is a son. I have been informed that she possesses many excellent qualities, and is much beloved by her people. October Vth. This morning the king-consort and Mr. Pritchard, H. B. M. consul, came on board, and breakfasted with Captain Hudson. The king is probably 23 years of age, well formed, and rather good-looking. His dress showed no evidence of his rank ; it consisted of a calico shirt, brown drill- ing pantaloons, a black bombazine jacket, and straw hat. He wore no stockings, and his shoes w^ere old and patched, which induced our good purser to make him a present of a new pair. When breakfast was over, he went round to look at the ship, with which he appeared much pleased. Mr. Pritchard was formerly connected with the mission. His house is decidedly the best I have seen on the island ; he owns large tracts of land, and he is said to exercise much influence over the queen and the goveYnnicn" .* At 10 o'clock the king left the olap, accompanied by Captain Hudson. • The Government is a Constitutional Monarchy. Tahiti now belongs to the French. FROM At steered On proved Islaads ward ai difficult large ro but is ej It is { some p" of a tt with the with fes water; The s material seen. ''. coming ' between when th fresh br< There convicts. CHAPTER VII. FROM TU1UILLA TO AUSTRALIA, OR NEW SOUTH WALES. At 9 p. M., October 10th, we bade adieu to Tahiti, and steered to the westward. On the 18ta we descried land, bearing northwest, which proved to be Tutuilla, one of the Samoan, or Navigator Islaads. At meridian kept away for it, and shortly after- ward ancliored in the harbor of Pango-Pango. We had no difficulty in entering this port. The principal danger is a large rock, which is situated near the middle of the passage; but is easily seen, as the surf breaks upon it at all times. It is a beautiful harbor ; the land all around riscS abruptly, some places perpendicularly from the water to the height of a thousand feet or more, and evervwhere it is covered with the most luxuriant vegetation ; even the rocks are covered with festoons of creeping-plants. It likewise abounds in fresh water ; several fine streams are visible from our decks The shores are thickly studded with houses, and they differ materially in shape and construction from any we have before seen. They are circular in form, with a high conical roof coming down to about five feet from the ground— the space between the eves and the ground being shut in by mats, which, when the weather is pleasant, are rolled back, and thus the fresh breeze circulates through every part of the dwelling. There are many runaway sailors, and some Botany Bay convicts, livhig on this islam'. fei^*-' m f:;!i. October lOtli. This day we visited tiie village, situate( the head of the bay. It contains about forty houses, all con- structed after the manner before described, save that of Mr. Murray, the resident missionary. This is built after the Enjrlisli cottage-style, painted white, and surrounded by a wooden paling. The interior aspect of the native buildings varies accordiii|^ to the circumstances of the owner. If he be rich, the floor is covered "with the finest quality of mats, and presents an air of great neatness throughout. If poor, the floor remains uncovered, and but little attention is paid to cleanliness or order. We saw in the Council-House a war-canoe, which was capable of carrying fifty warriors. It is said that every vil- lage on the island has one of these council-houses. They are the places where the chiefs and other principal men meet to discuss all matters concerning the state. The one here stands near the landing, has a circular shape, -ind is capable of con- taining several tlunsand people. Curiosity brougiit crowds of men, women, and children around us. Tliey are not in general as well-formed people as the Tahitians, and vre observed that very many of them were afllicted with ophtlialiiiia and elephantiasis. Their dress con- sisted of long, narrow leaves, thickly strung on a piece of bark, long enough to tie round the loins. All of them were tattooed, more or icss, about the legs and arms, but ornaments they had no:",\ Boili men and women are fond of bathing, and they spc-M I r.iuch of their time in tlie water. They seemed to have no idi a >n money, but set great value on every- thing in the way of ciothing and iron tools. They eagerly exchanged their larg-^st and finest-wrought mats for a hatchet, or a plain ;ron ; ink and paper Avere also sought after by some. f AN AMERICAN CITIZEN MUKDERED. 83 tuatcd at , all con- ,t of IMr. after the led by a buildings If ho be nats, and poor, the s paid to 'hich was every vil- They are n meet to 3re stands le of con- children people as lem were iress con- piece of lem were naments bathing, . They (U every- eagerly hatchet, after by On the afternoon of the 20th we sailed for the neighbor- ing island, Upolu. A few days after the " Peacock's" arrival here, an American, named Terry, gave information against a native, who had murdered an American seaman that was living on the island some twenty months before. Mr. l^aldwin and the master-at-arms, with several marines, were immediately sent to secure him. After looking for him for some time, he was pointed out to Mr. B., Y>-ho arrested him and brought. him on board the ship, where he was confined and ironed. Some days afterward Captain Hudson demanded an investi- gation of the matter. On the 26th the chiefs assemble! tliat the people miglit sec what they luid to expect when they killed an Ameriean citizen. It was believed by the ofTicers of this ship th.nt the chiefs would have finally complied with all of Captain Hudson's de- mands, had the '*" Vineennes" kept out of the way, but she now made ]jer appearance, and upon its being reported to Captain Wilkes what was going on, he repaired to the Council- House, and after holding a private interview with Captain Hudson, ordered the prisoner to be returned to the " Peacock," at t". same time requesting Mr. JMills to state to the assembly that the criminal would be taken away from Upolu, and left on some uninhabited island. Upolu is one of those islands which, together with Savi, Tutuilla and Manono, constitute that group of islands which go under the cognomen of " Navigator's Group." The soil is, generally speaking, very fertile, being in most parts com- posed of a dark, rich, mould, from which spring spontanec isly a strong luxuriant vegetation of perpetual verdure. This manifests itself in various species of grass, shrubbery, fruit trees, and forest timber. From the I' -nation of the island, almost in the centre of the tropics, it might be inferred that an atmosphere of very high temperature must be the necessary consequence. Such, how- ever, is not the fact. Experience has shown that it is more temperate than many regions beyond the torrid zones. The hour of greatest heat is about 3 o'clock P. M., when the thermometer averages 78° of Fahrenheit. Earthquakes are frequent, though not violent. By far the largest portion of the inhabitants live on the sea-coast, because they have there great facilities for fishing. Thev construct their houses after the manner of those we saw at Tutuilla. The men only are tattooed, and the part of the rJy ISLAND OF UPOLU. 86 en they 3 chiefs m's de- but she »rteil to >ouncil- [^aptain icock," ssembly md left ii Savi, s which lie soil ts com- pecusly This ', fruit of the y high , how- ls more The len the es are )n the ishing. we saw lof the body thus ornamented is from the waist to the knee. It is very tastefully done, and one would imagine it to have been adopted in imitation of breeches. It does, in fact, somewhat abate the appearance of nakedness, and thus give an air of decency. It is the ceremony of initiation • ito manhood. Fish is an almost daily article of food with those who live on the coast. They have various ways of catching these ; they use the hook, net, and spear, and for lobsters, &c., a kind of a trap-basket. They construct also a sort of pond, or inclosuro of mats and cocoa-nut branches, leaving one end open. A party then spread about, and drive the fish in, and thus often inclose a large number at once. Their manufactures consist of mats, cloth, and baskets. This is the work of w^men ; they make various sorts of mats — some of the strong leaf of the pandanus, in nearly its full breadth, for spreading on the floor — some of the same leaf split into small shreds for sleeping upon. A much finer mat, the weaving of which will occupy a woman twelve or eighteen months, is woven with the same leaf into very narrow pieces, which are made tough and durable by being baked in an oven, and then soaked in sea-water. The mat is so fine as to be almost as pliable as linen. These are the dresses on special occasions — the common one being like that we saw worn by the people of Tutuilla. They look very rich and elegant, espe- cially when trimmed with red or yellow feathers. The Tapa is made as elsewhere from the Chinese paper- mulberry. This is also in extensive use for clothing and bed- covering. They print some of it in neat patterns, and dye some pieces all black* or brown. It wears better than the cloth made at Tahiti. Nets are made from the bark of the hibiscus, a tree w'.ich is very common. Tneir construction is very much the same =ai from tlie above matcriuls some very neat and useful ])askcts. Tlicir food is prepared in the Avay practised in Tahiti, and tliey have many dishes >Yhich arc rieh and agreeable to the palate. 'J'iie Avomen are treated with as much consiideration as in any part of the ^vorld, and are not suttered to do any out-d(jor "work. They are cleanly in their habits, and bathe daily, after which they anoint themselves ■with oil and turmeric. The girls are pretty, and quite modest. Their complexion is a lighter brown than that of the Tahitian women. It is the practice of mothers here to suckle their children until they are five or six years of age, and T myself saw a woman who gave nourishment to two children of different ages at once. The mariage-vo^\ is observed with strict fidelity. The usual mode of courtship is for the man to take a ])asket of fruit and offer it to the object of his choice. If the young woman partakes of it, his addresses are favorably received, and he applies to his chief for permission to marry. When this is granted, he calls on the parents of the girl, and pays them a stipulated price for her, whicii varies with the re- spectability and circumstances of her family. The ceremony is concluded with a grand feast, to whi(di the relatives and acquaintances of the parties are invi-ted. Children are brought up without severity. As soon as the boy can make use of his hands and feet, his father furnishes him with a little bow and arrow, and exercises him in shooting at a target, or throwing stones at a mark by the sea-side. Their burials are conducted as ."ollows : — The body is enveloped in several thicknesses of tapa, and placed in a grave I--: Jj isi.ANi) OF ri'()i,r. 87 ;oncs in- of cork, so make askcts. hiti, {iiid e to the on as in out-door lily, after ic'. The xion is a It is tlie lutil they Dnian who , once, ty. The th (1( (1 sln'uhh pi: k uskct of le young received, When nd pays the re- ceremony ives and on as the j furnislies ; shooting j side. 1 1 body is n a grave |: about iiiree leet deep, wiui iiowers ana snruonery pianiec around. No arms, or food is deposited with the bodies ; for, according to their l)eli('f, they have all these things provided lor them in tiie worlil of spirits. After the body has lain in the grave a year or two, tlicy take up tlie skull and place it in a box in their houses. The object of this practice, I am toll, is to prevent their enemies obtaining possession of tluMn in times of war, when it is a conmion custom to violate the sanctity of the grave. The relatives of the deceased show their grief by burning themselves and scratching their faces. Their amusements consist of dances, wrestling-matches, sham club-ll'ihts, and a variety of uames. All the dances I saw were verv indecorous, so much so as to make it iniiir'»ner »/ .- La. to attempt a description of them here. Young women had a share in them, and it seemed to me that their attitudes were of a character still more disgusting than those of the men. The masic accompanying the dances consisted of drums,* flutes,! and singing. It is said that the sham-fights sometimes last a whole day, and usually end in bloody noses and broken heads and limbs. Their arms consist of spears, clubs, bows and arrows. The spear is pointed with bone, and is con- sidered a very formidable weapon. The government resembles the early state of the European nations under the feudal system. Their orders of dignity answers to barons, vassals, and villeins. Great respect is paid to the chiefs, and particularly to the highest class. The " Tuper," or barons, are lords of the several districts into which the island is divided. The vassals superintend the cul- tivation of the ground, and the villeins, or the common people, perform all the laborious work. The whol 3 power lies in the t The Samoan druTn i'^ mmlc of a pioco of wood liallowcd out. Tliis (lute is made of bamloo. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 2.0 lU IL25 i 1.4 I 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4S03 •N? \ \\ ^ k o^ ^^ 'n by the ed. .nd many lose who They hair,}: d; they ir inomination, Wesley ans 'speoted by vinities are the men of to cure by > PUT THE MURDERER ON SHORE. 89 are also more indolent and less intelligent than those of their brethren who have been converted. During our stay at Upolu the trading-master was stationed on shore daily, for the purpose of purchasing provisions for the squadron. Here all sorts of articles were displayed ; but those which took best with the natives were hatchets, knives, blue nankeen, and chisels. Though the weather was gene- rally unfavorable, we obtained very good rates for our chro- nometers. The scientific gentlemen were constantly employed in making excursions into the interior of the island, to collect specimens and information in their respective departments. Oflficers were also stationed on shore day and night for the purpose of making observations on the tides. In short, every exertion was made to promote the interests of the Expedi- tion. , On the afternoon of November 10th we proceeded to sea, in company with the rest of the squadron. On the 11th, I received orders to join the " Vincennes." During the early part of this day we experienced a very heavy shower of rain, accompanied with much thunder. At 11.30 P. M., we arrived off Wallis Island. While we were making a survey of this island, a canoe, paddled by two men, came alongside, a circumstance which Captain Wilkes availed himself of to land the native prisoner who killed our countryman. The island is well inhabited, but the two natives who came off to the ship assured us that there was no communication between it and the Samoan group. Tuvi — for that was the prisoner's name — was kindly treated during his confinement on board the " Peacock," and seemed mucli distressed in parting with her officers and crew. He was about thirty years of age, and had a wife and several children. His stature was tliat ■'.i 90 AT SEA, OFF WALLIS ISLAND. ()f an ordinary-sized man, and there was nothing of the sinister expression in liis countenance. Wallis Island is situated in latitude 13^ 24' 00" south, and loiiffitude 1T('° 09' 00" cast. From the name one would naturally suppose it was a single island. Such, however, is not the case. It is a f;roup of small islands encircled by one extensive reef, against which the swell of the ocean may be seen breaking at all times. The native name of the principal island is Wea, and it is tolerably high, but the others are low, resembling the Coral Island of the Paumato Group. All are thickly covered with trees, aiid well inhabited. 'J'he two natives avIio camo on board informed us that there was a good anchorage inside of the reef, and plenty of provisions to be had from the inhabitants. It is said th.at the Catholic missionaries who were expelled from Tahiti, were landed here, and that they have made many converts among the natives. When the survey was finished wo again made all sail, and stood to the southward. On the following morning we passed Horn Island, dis- covered about the year 1G16, by Le Maire. It is high and well wooded. As for the inhabitants, I am unable to spe-ik of them. At early daylight on the 18th, Matthew's Rock was re- ported in sight. We bore away for it, and when within half a mile of its northernmost point, measured base by sound with the " Peacock," and angled on it in order to fix its position. A boat, with Drs. P. and F., was also sent to make an examination of the rock. It is about half a mile in circum- ference, and very steep and rugged ; our boat, therefore, found great difficulty in effectirjg a landing. Here and there in spots may be seen some soil bearing bushes. In general a naked- ness of rock characterize the prospect. Immense numbers of ic sinister south, and mo. would lowcvcr, is led by one in mfiv be c principal otliiTS are roup. All 'J'he two ivas a good s to be had lissionaries !, and that ,11 sail, and sland, dis- ; high and e to speak »'i k was re- thin half sound with s position, make an m circum- bre, found |re in spots 1 a naked - umbers of birds were pevelud uixui it. The boat havinj^ returned wq resumed our course. On the 24th of Nuvembir v. o cxnriii.Miccd a severe thunder storm. The ship was struck l;y liLiiitniiii; several times, and the forward conductor was ]>r(;krn iiito many pieces, but neither the rigging nor hull were dauinged. Tiie wind blew vio- lently from the southwest, and during the continuance of the storm the thermometer was observed to fall from ^iY to iV.f. After sunset, as the wind increased in strength, " all hands were called," the topsails were close-reefed, and a signal made for the rest of the squadron to adopt the same i)re- caution. Our position at meridian was, according to dead reckoning, in latitude o2^ oG' 00" south, and longitude IGO* 20' 48" cast. Two days after this storm we passed Lord Howe's Island and Ball's Pyramid, and several other small islands, called Admiralty Rocks. The two first mentioned are high, bleak, rugged rocks. On the 27th we saw several fin-back whales, also a great number of birds, among which were four or five very large albatrosses. At 10 A. M. on the 2Tth, we made the coast of New Hol- land, or New South Wales, on the weather-beam. At 7.40 P. M. descried Sydney light-house, and at called all hands to work ship into port. We then stood for the harbor, and by 10.37 anchored in seven fathoms water oft' the town of vSydney, abreast of Fort M'Quarie, without any of her citizens, or the garrison's being aware of our character. The " Pea- cock " followed in our track, and anchored Avithin a cable's length of us. The remaining vessels came in the following dav. The fact of our coming in here in the night, and that too ■>^ without the aid of a pilot, appeared to have excited no little sensation among the people on shore. Several of the news- papers spoke of it next morning as something very remarkable, and jocularly declared it to be a " Yankee trick," done for the purpose of saving the pilotage, and in perfect keeping with our usual keenness in money matters. It would have been rather a serious joke though, had the object of our visit been hostile, for we might have possessed ourselves of the fort, and then bombarded the town with the greatest ease. Of this, however, they were as sensible as ourselves, and the necessity of fortifying the harbor more effectually, and of being more vigilant, became fully impressed upon their minds. There are many excellent sites for fortresses, so that the harbor might be rendered perfectly inaccessible to an enemy's vessels. no little le news- larkable, done for ping with ave been asit been fort, and slves, and ly, and of eir minds, that the n enemy's CHAPTER VIIL AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND, OR THE LAND OF ANOMALIES. While the Portuguese and the Spaniards, early in the sixteenth century, were extending their enterprise through the seas of the further east, rumors reached Europe of a new con- tinent on the south. The navigator, driven by contrary winds and currents beyond the bounds of his ordinary enterprise, discovered different points of land, which, for a long period, none endeavored to examine. The Spaniards had been navi- gating the Indian Archipelago for more than eighty, and the Portuguese for nearly a hundred years, before the name of any mariner became connected with the discovery of Australia. The unknown southern land, (Terra Australis incognito,) and the southern land of the Holy Spirit, (Australia del Spiritu Santo,) were indefinitely mentioned in their records, yet no ex- plorer ventured to approach the mysterious coast, dimly seen by the chance-voyager in those remote seas. In 1605, however, the Dutch, eager to obtain a maratime superiority in those distant regions, ecpiipped the yatch " Duy- fen," which sailed from the port of Bantam, in Java, to explore the coast of New Guinea. Returning from this expe- dition, the little vessel entered the waters of the shores of Australia, and sailed into the great Gulf of Carpentaria. To these early voyagers all seemed desolate and barren, for, since the discovery of America, the voyage of Vasco di Gama, and the exploration of the Indian Archipelago, the navigator con- tinually thirsted for some new Chersonese, where gold was to i be found in every stream, wlicre nmbcr Mas Avaslied up on the bcacli, where spices perfumed the forests, and pearls were plentiful in the shallow waters near the shore. The wild aspect of the Australian coasts consequently offered little temptation to them. Nevertheless, Spanish, Dutch, and Enj^lish mariners continued to visit those seas, Dampier, between 1()84 and 1T<'0, exj)loriii^ a portion of the north- western coast, and surveyinj^ it in tlie rude manner of his time. Half a century of further research added little to the world's knowledge of this great region; but 1770 brou;:^ht the advent of Captain Cook, whose immortal memory is associated with so many seas and shores, lie discovered die eastern coast of Australia from Cape Howe to Cape York, naming the region New South Wales. Manv successive vovagers followed, each of whom contributed some tracing to the sea-board of this vast territo'- ntd Captain Stokes, about eight 3'ears ago, made the entire ». "t of the island, and first enabled the geographer ac- curately to lay down the leading features of its mighty outline.* The daring navigators of lMiroi)e eX|,lored the shores of Australia, marking its outlaying islands, endeavoring to dis- cover the mouths of rivers, fixing the position of harbors, and laying down the general outline of the island; while inland discovery commenced much later, and made a slower progress. In the south, ridges of liills were known to exist, and believed to be impassable. Not lofty, but precipitous and rugged, they were intersected by deep chasms and broad, barren valleys, sprinkled with half-blasted trees, and piled with masses of sandstone rock — landscapes sublime in their melancholy deso- lation. The blue mountains, so named from their habitual * To those familiar with tlic liistory of maratime discover)-, the mention of such names as New HoUand, New South Wales, Tasmania, Van Uieniaa'u Land, Do Witts, &c., win at once recall tlie numerous voyages and voyagers connected with the gradual exploration of Australia. r:^ up on the ails were The wild ?rc(l little Itch, and Dampior, ;hc nortli- f his tiino. l»c world's the advent ;iatcd with •n coast of the region jwed, each )f this vast >, made the jrapher ac- y outline.* shores of ng to dis- .rbors, and ile inland progress, id believed nrjifd, they i\ valleys, masses of ;holy deso- r habitual jntion of such and, Do Witts, :ted with the aspect, were long considered impassable ; but when English colonists in New Soutli Wales were straitened for room, they looked for wider pastures for their flocks, and more extensive lands for the cultivation of corn and vegetables. Necessity then opened a passage through the hills — the liathurst plains were discovered, and a stage-coach rattled along a well-mn'le road winding among the mountain-passes. In other directions adventurous men, starting from different points, attempted to explore the interior of Australia ; but as yet all have been unsuccessful in their endeavors to reach the centre, and he who traveled farthest, at the utmost point of his journey, has only cast his eyes over a monotonous desert, apparently of interminable extent. Australia is situated in the immense ocean stretching to the southeast of Asia, and lies in nearly the same latitude as the Cape of Good Hope and Brazil. Hqual in surface to four-fifths of the European continent, it extends from 113° 05' 00" to 153° 16' 00" east longitude, and from 10° 30' 00' to 39° ir 00" south latitude. The area is cal- culated at 3,000,000 square miles, and the coast line at 7,750. The whole of this immense mass of land is solid and compact, broken by few indentations of the ocean. The mariner, for the first time approaching Australia on its western coast, perceives few of those natural charms painted by so many writers. Alon.5 these shores, even now very rarely visited, there is little to allure the eye. A mono- tonous plain, bounded in tlie distance by a chain of bleak hills, stretches from the sea, and over the surface of this vast level are scattered sweeps of ground blackened by the passage of flames. The few wandering tribes leading a nomade life in this part of the island, frequently, by accident, or inten- tionally, kindle the tall, dry grasses or the low bush. The fire, r seizing greedily on tlic i)arclieJ vegetation, travels uitli great rapidity, and driven by the wind spreads to the base of the hills, where the eonflagration spends its fury. As we proceed further northward, the shores become strewn with enormous masses of rock, extending to some distance from the beach. It is supposed that formerly the land here was considerably more elevated than at p^'esent, and that the action of water has levelled it, leaving the move durable masses unremovcd. Some eminences, covered v.ith a vegetation richer than that of Brazil or Borneo, with occasional fertile plains, present them- selves in marked contrast with the general aridity of the coast. On the northern shores the same level prevails. Flinders sailed 175 leagues without seeing any hill higher than the mast of a sloo}). Along the Gulf of Carpentaria few elevations occur ; but rcachiijg the eastern coast, the view is no longer monotonous or dreary. New scenes continually unfold themselves — forests and open plains, and valleys running up between the hills, and a more numerous population enlivening the country. Passing between the shore and that great barrier-reef which outlies the eastern coast of New Holland for more than six hundred miles, we enter the principal field of British enter- prise, where the coast is marked by a thousand fantastic irregularities. A line of precipitous cliffs extends far towards the south, a huge breach in this natural wall becomes appa- rent ; and while tlu eve is restino;on the grim mn^nificence of these granite barriers, the vessel glides betwt '^n the rocks, and reposes in the superb harbor of Port Jackson. The shore, sweeping in gentle slopes toward the hills, is covered with a natural growth of verdure. The sea, blue and brilliant, flows into beautiful bnys, where vessels lie safe after their long voyage from Europe. White stone-built villas, with itli groat se of the | proceed , enormous I le ])eadi. siderably ; of water removed. ' n that of j 'ut tliein- ] :lie coast. : Fiiuders than the cur ; hut 3notonou3 ' I — forests the hills, country, tef Avhich than six -h enter- fantastic • towards es appa- iccnce of le rocks, ' )n. The covered brilliant, { ter their las, with graceful gardens and groves, lend artificial charms to a land- scape naturally picturesque ; and Sydney, the capital of New Soulh Wales, with its forts and light-houses, its churches, hospitals, and custom-house, full of trallic, and smoking in the heat of industry, appears like tlio creation of enchantment. The industry of T^urope, planted in Australia, now ploughs the sea between Port Jack.-un and Moreton I5av with steamers, which prepare the mind for the scene presented within ; but with this exception, the change from the outer view to the panorama of Sydney, is as that from a lifeless desert to au English seaport. Towards the west the surface again becomes level — irregu- larities are few — tall, sloping cliffs conmience, and the country sinks 'uto a plain covered with scrub, and extenrling as far as the South-western point of the island. There, rises a range of low hills, continuing as far as Gautheaume Jiay, where wc reach again the desolate level from whence our circuit commenced. The streams in South Australia and Western Au.^tralia are, in comparison, insignificant ; but it is a received opinion among many geographers that great water-springs exist in the island, which will ultimately burst from the earth, llow together, form themselves channels, and find outlets at various places along the coast. At present, in the river-system of Australia, as well as in its mountains,*' valleys, and geolo- gical formation, its botany and its zoology, Ave discover a strong support of the theory that this region is of recent emergence from the ocean. Formerly, Captain Sturt believes it consisted of an archipelago of islands. The be(l of the ocean, upheaved by the agency of subterranean fires, raised • In the roimtries of flic old wnrM. every raiii^o. however torUums', asjrces iti general direction with the length of the continent. In Austialia the case is reversed — the hilU run trans fCrselv frou north to south. .=J 08 AUSTRALIA, OR SV.W HOLLAND. the whole to a level, suid the aetion of the great sea sweeping over it has produciMl these strange appearances, which have earned for Australia its curious title — the L:ind of Anomalies. The researches of travelers in the interior will at no distant day, lay it open to examination ; and when the great doubt is removed, science will explain with accuracy phenomena at the present day so perplexing. Kighty years ago the adventurous voyager, Captain Cook, sailed along the eastern coast of Australia, and there, in latitude 33^ south, discovered a commodious inlet. Near the water's edge he saw many curious flowers blooming wild, and from them named the )»laee Botany Bay. The account of his visit was circulated in T^iigland, and, sixteen years later, it was resolved to establish a colony in some part of tlie unknown southern land, liotany Bay was thought of. In 1787, the *' Sirius " and the " Supply," with six transports and three store-ships, sailed willi the germs of a new colony on board. Besides the crews and IGG marines, there were 757 convicts — 505 men and 192 women. Stores and provisions for two years were taken, besides agricultural implements and tools, with all the necessaries for the foundation of a permanent set- tlement. Captain Philip, the appointed governor, took com- mand of the squadron, and sailed first to the Cape of Good Hope, then belonging to the Dutch, where live stock and seeds were procured. At Rio Janeiro more stores were taken in, and the expedition steered direct for the new land. Con- tinuing their course, they reached Australia after a voyage of eight months and one week. Botany Bay appeared to pro- mise little ; water seemed scarce, and an aspect of aridity on the surrounding land decided them to go elsewhere in search of a place of rest. The fleet, therefore, weighed anchor; and, as they I'^^t the bay, two French ships, under La .vccping jh have )iTialu'S. distant iloubt is a at the 1 Cook, here, in s\\'ir the ild, ami it of his later, it ink now n 787, the dd three 1 board, convicts for two id tools, lent set- jk com- of Good ock and re taken Con- 3yage of to pro- ridity on n search anchor ; nder La Perouse, entered it. Tliat adveiitnroiis discoverer stayed two months in this haven, and then set sail for the Pacific, disap- pearing^ forever from the si<^!it of civilized man. Drawing near an opening in the clifi's, a few miles further north, the governor went to examine it in person. The natives collected on the rocks, shouting to the strangers to go away ; but they persevered. Captain Cook had reported the existence in this neighborhood of a creek, where boats could be sheltered. A sailor, named Jackson, however, declared that a great haven lay within the mighty rocks t'lat frowned above them ; and entering between these, the explorers were delighted to find a harbor of many miles in extent. A fine anchoring-ground was at once chosen, and the name of the sailor bestowed on the harbor. The spot chosen for debarkation was near a stream of fresh water, over-shadowed by trees. Every man literally stepped from the boats into a forest. They detached them- selves into parties, and the primeval silence of the shore was immediately broken by sounds which have never since died away. Some shouldered the axe and commenced clear- ing ground for the different encampments ; some pitched the tents ; some brought from the ships the necessary stores, and others examined the capabilities of the neighboring soil. Every one wandered freely over the country, and wholesale disposals were made of land which, fifty years later, was worth more than a thousand guineas an acre. The people weve then collected together, and the governor's commission was read, with letters patent for establishing courts of justice. The ground was gradually cleared, a rude farm was prepared to receive the live stock, and gardens were laid out for the planting of seeds and roots. Thus was planted the colony of New South Wales. CHAPTER IX. AUSTRALIA OR NEW HOLLAND. The colony of New South Wales is exceeding precocious, approaching fast to commercial and political greatness. It promises fair to occupy a commanding position "with respect to the quarter of the globe in which it is situated. There is very little doubt that when sufficiently powerful, the colonists will shake oft' the yoke of the mother country, and erect themselves into a separate sovereignty, such a spirit being abundantly evident, even at present. They have not as yet the strength necessary for an undertaking of so great a magnitude ; but none of the inclination is wanting, particularly since the home government has threatened to subject them to what they con- sider unjust taxation. Already the storm-cloud has began to show itself above the horizon, and we will venture to predict, the time is not fr" distant when it will overspread the heavens, and shower upon them all the horrors of family strife. A population composed, as this cliiefly is, of the most turbulent and refractory, and of the self-exiled, who have been driven from their native land by misery and persecution, are not likely to remain long in patient subjection to a country which has been the source of their former misfortunes and disgraces, and with the recollections of which so much is mingled to awaken the bad feelings of the heart. They are constantly looking forward for the severance of the tie whicli binds their new home to the parent land. The vicious, because such 1 4 I-. cocious, ess. It 'spect to 3 is very ists will imsclvcs indantly strength de ; but lie home hey con- began to predict, heavens, ife. A Livbulent driven are not v which isgraces, ngled to nstantly ids their se such AUSTRALIA OR NEW HOLLAND. 101 i characters liate and fear tlio power that has chastised them ; and the unfortunate, beciuse thev antieinate from a longer connection a recurrence of tlieir pa>t adversity by an introduc- tion of the same causes whicli liad led to them in a country wliere tlie unassisted poor man, if lie would not die of starva- tion, must plunge himself in crime. 'Wvx know well tliat when the majority is nearly on a footing witli regard to weallli, chances are great, that each will secure to him.-elf a compe- tencv. In a communitv so circumstanced, the stru'^le is not with the overwhelming advantages of the rieii, but ■with more surmountable obstacles. Ihe road to ^filiience is denied to none, and success is dependent on a man's own exertions. He will soonest reach the goal wlio is most industrious and enterprising. The tOAvn of Sydney* is in tlie most flourishing condition, trade is extending and becoming more; nnd more profitable, and emigration flowing into the colony v.-ith nn enlarging cur- rent, and composed of individuals of that most useful class to a young colony — artizans, agriculturists, and such like. The principal article of export is wool. Wheat ranks next in importance; but the crops are uncertain, o'ving to tlie long ana severe droughts to which the country is liable somo years. These, by the way, are most serious evils to the country , and one of the greatest checks to its advancement, and, unfor- tunately, irrigation cannot be resorted to as a substitute in consequence of the scarcity of fresh -water streams. The dry periods are sometimes so constant and protracted that cvery- * Sydney is tlie capital of New South Walrs, and contains about ^.O.OdO inhahi. tauts, Tlic streets are well laid out, and are rapidly filling "p witli good houses constructed of brick. In the eastern ])art of tlie town is a larpje square, ujion which ore situated the Catholic Cathedral, tlie i h" rcli of Si. .Inines', and the offices of the Colonial Government; on the wcsteru qua 'or are extensive public grounds, and many handsome buildings. r&i tiling becomes parched ; all nature withers under their fiery influence ; vegetables, plants, herbs, are destroyed, and the fields literally take fire. The ground becomes intensely heated, and the fine dust io •whirled into the air in such vast clouds that the wayfarer is threatened with the same fate tl;at sometimes befalls the unlucky traveler in the deserts of Africa. These are times which distress not only the grain- merchant, but the market generally. Agriculture becomes almost neglected, flocks and herds suffer for the want of sus- tenance, and ^re no longer driven, and inland traveling is rendered difficult ; hence the supply of wool, provisions, and indeed of every marketable commodity, is most sadly di- minished. In the course of time, when the wool-trade ceases to be as attractive as now, no longer holding out such allurements to the seekers after wealth, many articles will enter into exporta- tion which are as yet but little attended to by agriculturists and manufacturers. Wine will probably be one of the number, the soil and climate being admirably adapted to the cultivation of the grape, of which a great abundance is annually raised. With respect to mineral resources, this country is not with- out them. Lead and iron have been found in considerable quantities. Coal is plentiful, and used most extensively, as well for comfort in cold weather as for manufacturing and ( ther purposes. It is inflammable, but emits an exceedingly disagreeable smell, and before the appearance of flame throws out an immense deal of smoke. As the country becomes explored other minerals* will be discovered, which may be expected to form materials for future prosperity. ♦ I see by the k - accounts from Sydney that both copper and gold have been discovered, and the former is said to be of a very superior quality. At Mount Alexand-ir a piece of gold was found, weighing 68 oz. 18 dwts =1^ their fiery 1, and the intensely such vast same fate deserts of the grain- e becomes int of sus- raveling is isions, and sadly di- 3S to be as rements to ;o exporta- turists and e number, cultivation ly raised, not "with- nsiderable Qsively, as uring and iceedingly ne throws becomes may be have been At Mount I AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND. 103 At present but little is kiioAvn of the internal parts of the island of New Holland. Exploration has been carried but to a small extent, owing principally to the difficulties attendant upon traveling. Water and food cannot always be procured, and the natives are hostile. The trifling knowledge that has been obtained of this region, shows it to be one of the most peculiar in the world — distinct from others, not only in its general character, but many individual features, producing trees, plants, &c., and several kinds of animated creatures which are totally unlike those found elsewhere ; for instance, we have cherries growing with their stones outside ; trees which shed their bark instead of their leaves ; black swans, white eagles, quadrupeds with birds' bills, and crabs of an u\tra-marine color.* The human occupantsf of the land even are not without their singularities. There is, perhaps, no race of people * Of the 70,000 or SO. 000 specins of plants Jcscribed by botanists, 5,710 are already known to exist in Australia ; of tiiese only -i'O arc common to it and to other countries, while 5,440 are altogether peculiar to its extrordinary soil. I'hus, this island contri- butes to botany nearly a twelfth of the plants known ; but they arc generally of a very low order. Ferns, nettles, flowers, and grasses, having the form, bulk and habits of trees, are abundant. No detise woods have been found, and the groves, from a i)ex:u- liar arrangement of their foliage, present a strange appearance, many of the trees having their leaves hanging with the edge downwards. Flowering plants of exces- sive beauty are found ; and the lily, tulip and honeysuckle grow to the size of a large standard tree, in the interior immense numbers of prickly plants cover the ground, binding down the loose soil, and jireventing the drift which distinguishes the deserts of Arabia and Africa from the Australian wastes. The zoology of this region also presents extraordinary features. The number of known species of niamalia is about one thousand ; fifty-eight are found in Australia, of which forty-six are pecu- liar to it, leaving twelve only which it contains in common with other regions. Even of these, five are whales and four seals ; anctlier is tiie striing-winged bat of Madagascar ; another, like the jerboa of America ; and the last, the dog— the animal found always where man exists, and rarely, if over, where he does not. Kangaroos, however, are r.lmost the only important animal. In the birds and loptiles similar peculiarities exist. t The people who inhabit this extraordinary legion belong to the Lthiopic, which is the lowest family of the human rare. Many writers with great ingenuity have It ' I ' 1 i ! 104 AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND. known to Avhoni tlioy can bo compared ; all would suffer by the comparison. A rcscmljlance-may be traced between them and certain ti-ibes of no^roes in Africa ; tlie compli}xion is the same — if anything, blacker — the shape of the head and some of the features similar, but the countenance far more hideous ; in fact, imagination cannot conceive the extent of their ugliness. Perfectly Satanic in appearance, one fancies him- self in the midst of a horde of sooty imps just escaped from the dominions of his cloven-footed majesty. They are gene- rally tall and shapeless, with exceedingly slender limbs that have scarce even the ordinary enlargements occasioned by the muscles. Their manner of living, habits and customs, are those of a people plunged in the lowest depths of barbarism, and showing but a slight superiority over the beasts of the field. They do not settle in communities for mutual pro- tection and benefit, but roam at large over the country, sup- porting themselves as they best can upon what chance throws in their way — sometimes upon fruits and berries, and even roots, and sometimes upon snakes and whatever animals they succeed in ensnaring. They do not even build huts, but at.empteil to trace tlu; orii^inal colonization of Australia to a horde of Malays passing over in canons from the Indian Archii)L'lago, across Torres's Straits to the unknown southern land. The color of the skin, however, the formation of the skull and th6 Mmbs, with the genius, the habits, and the general character of the Australians identify them wilii tlie nogro race of New Guinea. The weapons tl>ey emi)loy are similar, and their progress in the industrial arts, as well as their mental qualities and condition of existence, being infinitely lower than those of the Malay, and closely similar to tliose of the Papuan, destroy tlie theory oi their Malan origin. Traditions they have few, and those but faint and incoherent. It is probable, however, that the wild savages of the Indian Archi|ielago, driven from their original homes by the supeiior civilization of the Malays, put to sea in rude canoes, and reaching the mysterious southern land, dobaiked, and gradually peopled the wih derness. They left tlicir ow n rich islands to the conquering .Malays, deserting a contested heritage for one where security and peace made up for the loss of a soil spontaneously productive. That infusion of other blood has taken j)lace is probable, but not to such an extent as to have iulluenced the chpracter of the population. I AUSTIIALIA, OR NHW HOLLAND. 105 (1 suffer by 'tween them pxion is tlie (1 and some •re hideous ; it of their ancies him- caped from y are gene- limbs tliat >ned by the istoms, are barbarism, asts of the Ritual pro- untry, sup- -nce throws and even imals they huts, but Malays passing the unknown skull and th6 Australians y employ nie ntal qualities c Malay, and Malan origin. is probable, their original e canoes, and pled the wiU s, deserting a loss of a soil le is probable, lation. shelter themselves from the inclemencies of the weather under decayed trees. In truth, tliey are a stranf;T race; and the greatest >Yonder is that there sliould be so great a dissimilarity between tliem and tlie natives of the surrounding islands — not only are they altogether unlike in personal appear.ance, but in every other respect. Most of the other islanders have light brown complexions, strait hair, and are handsome and active — live together in villages, under the government of something like bands, and in the internal arrangement of their huts, manner of living, &c., exhibit quite a correct idea of domestic comfort ; but these, on the contrary, lead a life literally that of wild animals. Both sexes have <-l^ 't disgusting practice of rubbing fish oil into their skins ; but they are compelled to do this as a protection against mos(iuitoes, which are very large and bite with much severity. Some of them have been seen with the entrails of fish frying in the burning sun upon their heads until the oil ran dcwn over their foreheads. On particular occasions they besmear tliemselves with red and white clay, using the former when preparing to fight — the latter, when going to have their dances. The women are subjected to mu- tilation of the two first joints of the little finger of the left hand. This operation is performed when they are very ^ oung, and is done, it is said, under the idea that these joints of the little finger are in the way when they wind their fishing lines over the hand. While fishing the women sing. Those who occupy the sea-coast live chiefly on fish, which tliey roast, for they are ignorant of the effect of fire upon water. A story is told of a shipwrecked sailor, who obtained among them the reputation of a sorcerer, by boiling a potfuU of water. The men do not confine themselves to one wife, but live with two or three ; thoufrh it has been observed that the first 106 AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND. wife claims a superiority of attachment, and an exclusive right to the conjugal embraces, Avhile the second, or the one last chosen, w ., compelled to be the drudge and slave of both. Between the ages of ten and twelve, both males and females undergo the operation which they call Inaonoong, viz., that of having the nose perforated to receive a reed or bone, which by them is considered a great ornament. It is a common prac- tice, also, to gash their bodies and to knock out one or two of their front teeth. An English trnder once made a large profit by selling in London a quantity of these teeth for the use of the dentists. Their habits are unsociable ; they talk very little even among themselves, and never permit any one to joke or laugh with them. Nor is their character more alluring in other respects ; to lie, cheat, and steal are practices almost univer- sal, and owners of sheep, and isolated settlers often suffev from their depredations. This is not because they do not know '-nv better, for their ideas of property are very distinct, and they never steal from one another. They are proud and insolent, and nothing will induce them to acknowledge any human being as their superior, or to show any marks of respect. They address the settlers without the Mr. prefixed to their names ; and on entering a room, they never salute or remain standing, but immediately scat themselves. Jealousy is a prominent feature in the character of the men. The husband who suspects another of seducing his wife, either kills one or both. The affair is taken up by the tribe, if the party belongs to another, and the manner in which it is settled is as fol- lows :— the guilty person is furnished with a shield,* and the • The native name for tliis shield is Nicklemara. ^um-tree, and has an oval shnpe. It is made of the bark of the ,n exclusive or the one ad slave of and females viz., that of le, which by nmon prac- le or two of L large profit L' the use of little even )ke or laugh ng in other nost univer- I suffei' from )t know r(\y t, and they id insolent, any human of respect. ed to their or remain cilousy is a le husband {ills one or rty belongs is as fol- * and the le bark of the whole tribe which ho has insulted, cast their spears at him — the first throw being made by the member most injured. Their mode of making ^^ar is peculiar. The aggrieved tribe assemble and consult relative to the course to be pur- sued. This having been decided on, a messenger is dispatcliod to announce their intention to commence hostilities to the opposite party, and fix upon a day for the combat. The latter immediately proceed to make all the necessary prepara- tions for the approaching contest ; and on the day assigned, both parties take the field, accompanied by the women. The first onset is made by the oldest woman abusing and taunting the opposite side. Then a warrior or two advance, and com- mence throAving spears at each other. This exchange of missiles continues sometimes for a whole day, and genersiUy ends without any fatal consequences, for the warriors are })icked men, and are celebrated for their skill in avoiding mis- siles with liieir shields. When a warrior of either party is killed, the fight ceases, explanations are made, and the parties meet amicably to bury the dead ; after which they all join in the performance of a dance called Corrohory. They make use of two weapons which we have not seen elsewhere — the Dandernel and the Boomcrrng. The former has a flat curved handle, about two feet in length, and in its general appearance resembles a hatchet. It is thrown from tlie hand before coming to close quarters. The Boome- reng is a flat stick, three feet long and two inches wide, crooked in the centre, forming an angle of fifty degrees. It is an implement used both for war and in the chase, and can be thrown by the natives with great precision. As might be expected, a people so ignorant as the Austra- lians, must also be very superstitious. When the wind groans over the hills, they imagine it to be the voice of an evil spirit, itations to awjiy. A {^rave placed before the door of a house is a safe- guard against tliieves. Wlien beneath a rock the}' will not vrhistlcj because they sny this will cause the rock to fall upon them; of thunder and lightnin.!^, they are likewise much afraid, and believe that by chanting certain words and breath- ing hard they can dispel it. Of their opinions with respect to a future state we had very defective information. Thoy spoke of some place which they believed to be the abode of the dead, but we could not learn that they had any idea of rewards and punishments. Their ideas of a deity are distinct — they believe in a being who is all powerful, who created themselves and their country, and delights in giving them all the good things of this world which they enjoy. There are other P^nglish settlements in New Holland be- sides that of New South Wales, but as our ships did not visit them, I am unable to give any detailed description of them. CHAPTER X. " Uptorn, reluctant, from its oozy cave, The ponileroiis anclinr risos o'er the wave." ANTARCTIC C 11 U I S E . Dfxkmber 2()tli. At an early liour this morning the squadron sailed from Sydney, on an exploring cruise in the Antarctic Ocean. We have not visited a place since we left the United States with which we have been so well pleased, as the capital of New South Wales. We received the most marked attention while on shore, and had daily invitations from the inhabitants to partake of their hospitalities. His Excellency the Gover- nor sought an early opportunity to invite Captain Wilkes and a number of the other officers, to come and spend several days with him at his residence in Paramatta. The officers of the 50tli Regiment gave us a splendid dinner, and the Australian Club another, '^n short, everything was done, botli by the authorities and citizens, to render our visit a pleasant one. December 2Ttli and 2sses, and one or two seals have been sctn. The fog has prevented our ob- taining any astronomical observations for ascertaining our position. The wind is still blowing fresh from the n<»rtlieast. January Tth. We have been trying all this day to reach JMaccjuarie Island, supposed to be about thirty miles to wind- ward of us. But the w ind, weather and current being against us, we have been obliged tc, give it up, and are now steering for Emerald Island, our second rendezvous. During the greater jiart of the f '^noon the mist was so dense that we were unable to see the " Porpoise," although she was not more than six hundred yards from us. The temperature now is below 40°. Our observations make the latitude to be 54° IT' 38" south, and longitude 1G0° 58' 00" east. Since sunset the wind has moderated, and the sky appears much more promising than it has done for some days past. January lUh. This morning we passed the locality given on the chart to Eijcrald Island, but saw nothing of it. We therefore concluded that the chart is incorrect. A great number of gray petrils have been seen, and we have also passed several patches of kelp. The barometer stands at 30.00 inches, but the thermometer has fallen to 32°, and the atmosphere is very raw. January 10th. Wc encountered to-day, for the first time, several icebergs and some drift-ice ; the former were several miles in circumference, but there was nothing very striking in their shape. The sea beat against their sides, and produced a noise similar to that made by breakers. A dense fog has succeeded to the clear weather we had yesterday. Our lati- tude is 61° 07' 00" south, longitude 162° 32' 00" east. January 11th. There has been a great number of ice- bergs in sight this day. We estimate several tc be five miles long and three hundred feet in height. They all had flat =i:ii tops, vitli sides full of cavities, ctnistMl by the waves dasliinj; nirainst them. Ahout \) P. M., v.i^ pass^il to tho eastward of a point of fiold-iee,'' whieli ]>rov('d to lie the orl^^e of a 'H)iirrier ;" stood in to tlie southward until Kho') P. M., when we found our- selves completely end)ayed, hjivin,!2; solid ice as far as could bo seen from tlie nuist-heads, except to the northward. We arc now *' hove-to'' to wait for daylight. The barometer con- tinues to stand at iJO.OO inches, thouj^h the wind has hauled around to the westward, and the temjterature is two d'^f^rees colder than yesterday. According to our observations the lati- tude is or 10' OU" south, and longitude 11)1° 81' 00" east. .Tanuarv loth. At carlv dawn we made sail, and com- mcnced to work along the " barrier" to the westward. About 9 V. M., it being very foggy, we lost sight of the " Porpoise," and have not seen her since. 'J'he temperature is now 80°, and our decks and rigging are covered with ice. A great number of icebergs have been seen, and owing to the thickness of the weather, wc came very near running into several. 'I'hc latitude by "dead reckoning" at meridian was 04° 08' 00" south, longitude lOr>° 27' 00" east. January 14th. The weather continues thick and disagree- able, but the wind has shifted to the northward and westward. About noon the fog lifted for a short time, and we counted sixty icebergs in sight. They excited much curiosity, as they presented a magnificent spectacle. Every fantastic form and variety of tint was there. Masses, assuming the shape of a Gothic church, with arched windows and doors, and all the rich drapery of that style, composed, apparently, of crystal, showing all the shades of opal, or of emerald green ; pillars and inverted cones, pyramids and mounds of every shape, * A piece of ice so large that its extent cannot be seen. u I ivcs dasliing f a point of rier ;" stood 3 found onr- r as could bo •(1. Wo arc romctcr con- l lias linulcd two d'^grocs ions the lati- CO" cast, il, and com- ard. About " Porpoise," is now 80°, C. A ffYCiit :lie tbickness veral. 'J'ho 04° 08' 00" nd disagrec- 1 westward. v.'c counted ity, as thej'' ic form and shape of a and all the of crystal, een ; pillars very shape, Iceberg. The Whale. ill.. ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 113 1 valleys and lakes, domes supjiorted b}' round transparent columns of cerulian hue, and cities and palaces as white as the purest alabaster. The liveliest imagination could not paint to itself a scene more rich and grand, and ^ve stood gazing at it with astonishment and admiration until it was again enveloped in the fog. January IGth. Towards noon the wind shifted to the northward, and at 8 P. JVI., to the southward and eastward, when it also became very light. Weather, during the first part, thick ; during the latter part, mild and pleasant. In the afternoon sounded with i^oO fathom.s line — no bottom. 'J'em- perature at that depth 31°, the same as at the surface. Dur- ing the day passed through great quantities of drift ice ; saw several Avhales, a seal, and a great number of snow-birils. Latitude at noon 06° GO' 02" south, longitude 15G° 02' 00" cast. January ITtli. Commenced with light airs from the south- ward, and thick weather. Lay-to from 1 to 3.30 A. M., when it cleared off. At 4 P. M. the wind shifted again to the west- ward. At 6.15 P. M. we descried two sail — one to wind- ward and the other to leeward — proved to be the " Peacock" and " Porpoise;" passed several icebergs of a pinnacle-shape. We have now reached the latitude of G()° 26 00" south, and our nights are only four hours long. The weather has be- come more mild since the fog has disappeared, and being able to. see our way among the ice-islands, we are making a fine progress. January 19th. Yesterday nothing worthy of notice tran- spired. This morning we found ourselves in a large bay ; the " Peacock" was in sight, and appeared to be standing to the westward. The water has a green appearance, but we have not been able to obtain bottom. It is believed by many of us Mi 114 ANTARCTIC CRUISE. that wo are in the vicinity of land ; saw, in the course of the afternoon, several whales, and a flock of petrels of a species different from any heretofore observed by us. For the past three hours appearances have been visible both to the south- east and southwest which very much resemble mountains.* January 20th. Last night we witnessed a magnificent Aurora Anstralis. It rose in the south — a sort of semi-arch of ligiit — and then across the heavens in almost every direc- tion, (hn-ted columns of a luminous character. The light was so briglit that we could ,-ee to read tlie finest print with ease. In half an hour it h.ad all disappeared. The weather is still mild. SaAV several sperm-whtiles, and a flock of ice-pigeons, of which we Avere fortunate enough to obtain specimens. January 2lI<1. At o P. M. the wind came out from the soutlnvard. Towards noon we stood along a line of icebergs, the surface of which was of a yellowish color. We also re- marked about the same time, that the water had become very much discolored. A flock of ducks were also seen. Latitude in at noon (JG° V>' 2l)" south, longitude 149° 44' 00" east. Temperature of air 2o°, water 81°. After sunset the wind shifted again to the southward and westward. January 28d. The weather coiitinues mild and pleasant. At 12.30 P. jVL tacked ship to the southward and eastAvard to clear the " barrier" of ice, which bore east-by-south. At 2 P. M. a large, deep bay shoAvcd itself to the southward, which we entered, and soon after observed appearances of land, both to the eastward and westward. By midnight we again reached the " barrier," and therefore were compelled to stand back. Numerous birds were seen about the ship. * The camo ajijicarances wore observed by the " Peacock " and the " Porpoise," and It is now fully cstat)lisl)od that they were high land, and formed a part of the An* tarctic continent discovered by the Expedition. ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 115 course of the of a species FoY the past to the .south- nuitahis.* L magnificent of scnii-arch ; every direc- rhc light \vas int with ease, eather is still f ice-pigeons, 3imens. out from the ,e of icebergs, We also re- become very \iY\. Latitude 44' 00" east, iset the ^Yind ind pleasant. d eastward to [y-south. At le southward, [pearances of midnight we compelled to le ship. Le " Torpoise," and a part of the An* January 25th. To-day tlie crew has been employed in fining up the tanks with ice, obtained from an iceberg which was towed alongside. Those who have used the wa,ter pro- cared by this method, represent it a> being of an excellent quality. Each piece was allowed to remain on deck some iim(> for the salt water to drain olT. In the afternoon we landed on tlie solid ice, and took some magnetic observations. We are once more steering to the sonlliward. Latitude in at noon 07° 04' 87" south, longitude 147° 42' 00" east. Tem- perature of air 20°, water 20°. Jamiary 28th. During these twenty-four hours we fell in with the "Porpoise," and connnunicated with her. Wo found both officers and crew well and in good spirits. VV'e received from her some specimens — among others the skins of two sea-elephants. The Avind is now blowing fresh from the southward and eastward, and the weather has again become verv thick. The cold is intense, and coffee has been served to the crew at the commencement of each watch, which is found very warming and refreshing. January 29th. The weather continues unfavorable. At O.4.") A. AL, the fog lifted, and we again discovered high land a-head. We steered for it by the most open route, but after a run of about forty miles, we were obliged to retrace our course. We found ourselves beset by ice-islands and floe- ico,* while at times the fog was so dense that the largest objects could not be seen through it. At 10 P. M., the wind blew very fresh, and we had many narrow escapes. We passed so near several of the bergs, that we could distinctly hear the waves dasliing against their sides. Latitude in by " dead reckoning " G.r 28' 00" south ; longitude 140° 45' 00" east. Tempera- ture of air 28°. We are now hove-to, it being too dark to run. * A piece of ice of coiisiderablo ssizc, but the extent of whicli can be (Hstinguished. 116 ANTARCTIC CRUISE. |l ! January 30th. Early this morning we discovered more land to the southward and westward. It was several thou- sand feet high, and extended to the east and west as far as the eye could reach. We steered for it under all sail, intend- ing, if possible, to effect a landing upon some part of its coast; but by 8 o'clock we reached the icy barrier, and thus were the third time compelled to turn back. How very provoking ! We found our latitude to be, when nearest to the barrier, 66° 38' 00" south ; longitude 140° 00' 00" cast. Depth of water was twenty-five fathoms — the color, a yellowish cast, or dirty green. Two ledges, composed of volcanic rock, were distinctly seen ; we also observed some columns bearing south, which had the appearance of volcanic smoke. To the west- ward of our position were numerous icebergs, which appeared to be aground. In the course of the afternoon, the wind, which in the morning had been moderate, freshened to a gale ; and, by 6 o'clock, we called all hands, and reduced sail to a close-reefed main-topsail and fore-storm staysail. The cold is very severe, and a number of the " look outs" have been badly frozen. January Slst. There is no improvement in the weather. February 1st. Last night t e gale abated, and we are now favored with mild, pleasant weather. How grateful this feels after the stormy scenes we have passed through within the last forty-eight hours ! Our sick-list the last week has been very large. The fleet-surgeon attributes it to the climate, and has recommended to Captnin Wilkes to return north.* Many of the men are affected with boils, which renders them almost useless. Rheumatic affections are also exceedingly prevalent. February 3cl. On this day w^e experienced another severe storm. ♦ This recommendation was not listened to. scovered more several thou- v'cst as far as lU sail, intend- rt of its coast ; md thus were cry provoking ! to the barrier, St. Depth of llowish cast, or nic rock, were bearing south, To the west- vliich appeared lOon, the wind, pned to a gale ; uced sail to a ail. The cold ts " have been the weather, nd we are noAv teful this feels ugh within the week has been le climate, and lorth.* Many rs them almost igly prevalent, another severe During the 4th, 5th, and Gtli, the weather continued unfa- vorable. On the Tth, we had clear weather and made very good pro- gress. The Antarctic Continent was several times in sight in the course of the day, and a point of it, situated in latitude G5° 48' 00" south, and longitude 131° 40' 00" east, was named Cape Carr, after the first-lieutenant of this ship. The health of the crew is improving. February 11th. We had moderate breezes from the south- ward and westward, accompanied with >.no\v at intervals. Great numbers of penguins and petrels seen about the ship ; also a flock of birds, about the size of a grry plover, having black heads and bills, a white ring roumi the neck, and a small white spot on the tail — the rest of the body of a pale ash color ; their flight and whistle were also similar to the plover. The continent was in sight to the westward, and the sea quite smooth and studded with icebergs of every variety of shape. During the night we hove-to, it being very dark. February 12th. At 8 A. M., we made sail. At 1 P. M., observed a range of mountains covered with snow, for which we steered until we came to the barrier of ice. From 2 to 4.30 P. M., we "" lay-to," in hopes of discovering an opening by which we could get near the land ; but none appeared. As usual, the barrier was formed of solid ice, and its line was nearly straight. Our latitude was G4° 56' 00" south ; longi- tude 112° IT' 00" east. At 4.45 sounded with 150 fathoms line — thermometer attached — temperature at that depth 29°, at the surface 30°. The color of the water was dirty green. Current there was none. At sunset land was still in sight, bearing from southwest-by-south to vv-est half-north. February 14th. The weather continues pleasant. At daylight worked up for the clearest passage, and stood in for 118 ANTARCTIC CRUISE. the continent among large brash-ice,* until 11.30 A. M., when the masses of ice became so thick as to render all fur- ther approach impossible. \Vc were compelled to put tlic helm up and wear ship, picking our way out through passages not more than thirty fcjt in width. We saw distinctly from sixty to sc^'cnty miles of coast, and a mountain in the interior, which we estimated to be 2,500 feet ii; height. At 1 P. Al., we effected a landing on an iceberg, and found imbedded in it sand, gravel, and rocks. These last were several feet in cir- cumference, and composed of basalt and red sandstone. Many of the smaller stones were brought on board, and they very soon disappeared, for every one was anxious to possess themselves of a piece of the ntw continent. There is no doubt in my mind, but that this mass of ice had once been a part of the icy barrier, and that the surface now exposed to view had rested on the bottom of the sea. Many species of zoophytes were seen about the berg. At 5 P. M., the boat returned, leaving on the ice a flag flying, Avith a bottle con- taining orders for the '^ Peacock " and " Porpoise," which vessels we have not seen for the past three Aveeks. When the boat was secured, we again filled away, and stood to the west- ward. We have now reached the longitude of 105° 30' 00' east. Temperature of air 26°, water 30°. February 15th. Tliis morning the wind hauled to the southward and westward, and ever since the weather has been cloudy and snowy. All tlie ice seen to-day has been dis- colored, more or less, by what appeared to be mud and gravel. Numerous whales, seals and penguins have been about the ship. January iTth. Last night another display of the Aurora • Ice in a brokcu state, and in such sTnall pieces that the ship can easily force through. 11.30 A. M., •ender all far- ed to put the 'ough passages :listinctly from in the interior, Atl P. M., nibeddcd in it L'al feet in cir- sd sandstone, jard, and they ous to possess There is no \ once been a low exposed to any species of . M., the boat a bottle con- •poise," which s. When the )d to the west- ' 105° 30' 00' lauled to the [ither has been has been dis- ud and gravel, een about the of the Aurora ip can easily force Australis was observed to the northward and westward. It reached to the zenith, the light shooting across the heavens in columns 4(J° or r)(.P broad, of a liglit-yelluw color, slightly tinged with red, and moving verv raiiidlv fn»m east towards west. So brilliant an! remarkable was the plienomenon, that almost every person in the shii) came ou dcek to witness it. The star Canopus was in the zenith at the time, and its brightness appeared much diminished. At 2 P. M. we landed on an iceberg, upon which were found more stones. Upon it were also found a vast number of penguins, and several were captured and their skins pre- served for the government. I'hey made a stout resistance, biting and striking those who seized tliem with their powerful flippers. One of them was a king i)enguin, and he could only be taken by knocking him down with a boat-hu(jk. His height was 22 inclies, and the circumference of the body 4.") inches. He was a showy-looking bird, his head being adorned with bright yellow feathers, resembling a graceful plume. We also saw in the afternoon a sea-elephant, and we tried our best to kill him, by firing into him no less than sixteen nmsket balls, but he seemed not to mind them, and finally disappeared. Appearances of land have also been seen this day. The health of the crew continues to imprn'e. February 20th. We have now light breezes from the west- ward. At 3.30 A. M. made the barrier a-head, and on the weather-bow kept oft' and set all sail. xVt 4 one hundred icebergs were counted in sight from aloft. At made the barrier again, bearing southwest-by-west ; shorteiicd sail, and hauled on a wind. At 11.30 lowered a boat to try the cur- rent, but found none ; at the same time sounded Avith .SoO fatlioms line — no bottom ; temi)erature at that depth 3.">°, at the surface 31'^. Our lonefitudo at noon was hjV 40' 00'' Illli'' ll I 120 ANTARCTIC CRUISL. east, latitude (12° 08' 05" south. The sea is quite smooth, and the surface is covered "with shrimps. February 21.st. This morning Captain Wilkes announced to the oilicers and crew his intention to bear-up and return north. Tlie intelligence ■was received with much rejoicing, for we all felt worn out with fatigue and exposure. He also called aft all hands, and thanked them for the assistance they afforded him, and in addition he promised the sailors that he would use his utmost exertions to obtain extra pay for them. On the 11th of March, at 1.30 P. M., we again dropped our anchor at Fort Macquarie, Sydney. Here we found the "Peacock." She arrived a few days before, and was now undergoing repairs, having sustained heavy damages during her late cruise by coming in contact with large masses of ice. We also heard here of the arrival at Hobart Town, Van Dieman's Land, of the French Expedition,* commanded by Admiral D'Urville. W^e remained at Sydney until the 19th of March. W^e then took our departure for New Zealand, where we arrived after a pleasant passage of eleven days. The " Peacock " re- ceived orders to follow as soon as her repairs were completed. * In 1837 the French Government sent out an F,xi)edition under Roar-.Admiral D'Ur- ville. an eminent exi)lorer, who had already made three voyages round the world. Two corvettes, the "Astrolabe"' and " Zelee," sailed from Toulon, and by the end of the year had followed WaddeU's track in the Antarctic Seas tmtil they were stopped by the ice between the 63d and d4th parallels. On three occasions an entrance was forced into it, but they were driven back each time, and forced to return. After a protracted cruise in Polynesia and the Indian Archipelago, D'Urville resolved to make another attem|)t to get to the south, and touched at Hobart Town in a dis. tressed condition, having lo.st three officers and thirteen men by dysentery. He sailed January Ist, 1840, his special aim being to approach or reach the magnetic or ter- restial pole. On the -Jlst he was surrounded by numerous ice-islands, and saw a lofty line of coast covered with snow, stretching from southwest to northwest, ap- parently without limit. With some difficulty a landing was effected, and not being aware of our discovery two days before, possession was taken in the name of France, ftad the land w^s called La Terra .\delie, after the wife of the discoverer. [uite smooth, !S announced 1 and return ch rejoicing, re. He also sistance they lilors til at he y for them, ^ain dropped fe found the md Avas now nages during lasses of ice. ; ToAvn, Van mmanded by larch. We e we arrived eacock " re- e completed. ar-A(lmiral DT'r- ound the world, and by the end until they were sions an entrance )rced to return. ) Urville resolved t Town in a dis- iitery. He sailed magnetic or ter- ands, and saw a a northwest, ap- 1, and not being name of France, rer. CHAPTER XI. NEW ZEALAND. On the morning of the oOth of March, having made New Zealand, we tacked ship and by 10.80 P. M., " came to " in tlie Bay of Islands in five fathoms water. Both the " Por- poise " and the " Flying Fish " were found at i/^chor here. The former reported that, after parting from us, she coasted along the solid barrier of ice several hundred miles, seeking in Vftin for an opening by which to approach the land beyond the barrier ; that she passed many icebergs in which Avore im- bedded gravel and boulders ; also, that she fell in with the French exploring squadron, and attempted to speak with the admiral's ship (" Astrolabe "), but when they had almost reached her, she tacked ship and stood away — thereby declin- ing any communication. The " Flying Fish " experienced very severe weather, by which her safetv was much endangered, but she did not dis- cover any land. The Bay of Islands is very capacious, and affords excellent anchorage to vessels of all classes. It is studded with many islands, and hence the name. These islands are of a very irregular figure, and destitute of vegeta- tion. The bay has been surveyed several times by the French, and WT believe very thoroughlv. It is ten miles from head to * The two islanc s that Reaches. Its anchora<,'e8 are imnierous, l)iit those Avliicli are n(»\v iiiou- ;];cnerally used are tlie Kiver Uawa Kawa and the Hay of Kororakia ; they are preferred on aceount of tlio convenience they aflibrd for watering, repairing, and conmnniicatinc'" witli the sliore. The adji^cent country is hilly, and nnich more barren tlian productive, tlie soil containing too great a rpuintity of chiy to be goo(h Tlie vegetation consists of fern, a few stunted trees and patclies (>{' brush, close-set, and almost impenetrable. The soil in the interior of the island is richer, and produces various natural productions," some of which are extremely valuable. The llax-plant, which is indigenous, meets the eye in every direction. It is converted by the natives to a variety of purposes. It sup])lies them with excellent materials for clothing, cordage, and ^ shing-nets, and the preparation being simple, requires very little trouble. There are manv English and some French wlio have settled in this part of New Zealand. 'J'hey arc mostly ship-carpen- ters and farmers. They live in houses built in the European style, and cultivate corn, potatoes,! onions, &c., &c., for which they always fnid a ready market among the shipping. Pallia, the Epi-copal mission establishment, is situated on the west side of the Ihiy, and commands a beautiful water- prospect, and is tiie residence of all those connected with the mission. About five miles further toward the north is the site chosen bv tlie British cfovernmenti for the future City of " Pines aro licio t^) lie mot wi'.li sourlii;^ to a }ioiji;lit whioh leaves no siinilaritj- lietween tlicni and tlic ta!lc";t that ever f^row on the |)inolaniIs of tlie United States. Here arc nl-o sfvciiil lvintrito was introtlnce.l by Caj'tain foolc. It has heen cultivated ever since his visit, and is now very nlinndant. \ A i'fw weeks i.rc\i.);i>: to o;ir ni rival at the Bay of Islands, ra])taiii Hohson, of Uie Hoyal Xavy, calii'd a mcolintr of all (lie priuoij.al chiefs, and ed'ectcd a treaty NEW ZEALAND. 123 i :uul IicjkIs, nnuTOiis, l)Ut IviviT Uawa [(referred on ig, reimiring, bnrren tliini ,ty of cliiy to stunted trees nipenetrnblc. ind produces re extremely neets the eye 3 to a variety naterials for iration being > liavc settled ship-carpen- 10 European c, &c., for shipping. situated on utiful water- ted with the th is the site :urc City of rc>< 110 similarity the I'uiteil States, anieiital work. ivateil ever since ptniii Hobson, of cflbctcil a treaty Victoria. It is not a pleasant location, nor is the anchorage as good as some others in the bav. The Aborigines of New Zealand are of gocd sizf, well formed, and l:ave fine oycs, but their no.'^e^ are inclined to bo flat, the nostrils large and thin, and thiir mouths wide. IJoth men and women have their faces elab(>rate!v tattooed, whieli gives them a striking appearance. Tlieir hair is straight, coarse, and black. The conrpiexion varies from dark olive to co],.))cr-color. Their dress formerly consisted of mats made of tiax and skins, but now tlu^y generally wear trowsers and jackets ; some wear hats, but we saw none who made use of shoes. The females wear a loo>^e petticoat made of blue na«:i- kccn or calico. They all have their caiv. bcred, aiid wear ear- ri'ugs made of sharks' teeth, tipped with small bright-colored feathers. The chiefs and their wives wear round their necks what is termed " heitiki,"* an ornament v.hicli tlic common people arc not permitted to use, and whicii is h.andetl down from father to son. Fish, potatoes aiid shells constitute the chief articles of their diet. Meat th.ey selfhiui or never use, except on important occasions. Tiioir fishing-tackle does not ditil-r materially from that which is used by the Taliitians and Samoa people. When a party has fixed U])on a pltice where they intend to haul the seine, they taboof it — tliat is, they prohiliit others from fishing upon the same place. Vv hen they take a greater number of fish than they can consume at once, they Willi tlicm, which inaih" a cession of their lamls. authority aiul jicsons to Qiiecn Vic-toria. W'q wore tohl hy the French and Aniciican resi.iputs tliru at lirst a largo luini'ier of chiefs were ojijioscd to tlic treaty, liut had hceii gained over hy presents of jjow der and rnm. Since the above was writen, the wliole island has j assod iiito ilic liands of Knglam', and Lord Derby's administration conferred upon the colonists a free constitution. * The Heitiki is made of a stone of a green color found on the borders of a srnnll lake. Called Teirai Pounamu. t The Taboo laws are strictly observed, oven amonpf tlio^e v.lio lave become Chris. tiiii;^;. and arc always resorted to. to p-otect their projicrty. 124 NEW ZEALAND. dry tlicrn on liot stont'S, by ^vllIch means they keep Ji lonj^ tiiiK'. Tlwit tlicy may better protect themselves a^^aiiist tlieir enemies, they biiilil tluir villii!i;es on the tops of the hi,i^hest hills, anil surround them ^vit]l palisades and trenches. They are said to have improved in the construction of their houses, but there is still great room for improvement ; they are yet pmull, low, and very lilthy. Their furniture consists of a few mats and baskets, an old sea-chest and an iron pot or two, in which they cook their food. The New Zealanders are industrious, compared with most of the South S.a Islanders. They cultivate a surplus of provisions for sale, cut timber, clean flax, raise i)if;s, poultry, &c.. Sec. They also ship as sailors on board of whalers* and other vessels, which may stand in need of their services. They are apt in learning the names of the I'igging, and arc very active aloft. In disposition they are zealous, revengeful, and cunning; but, on the other hand, they are hospitable and generous to strangers. Tlieir courage is not to be questioned. Their wars often last till one or tlie other of the parties are exter- minated, and it is said that the horrible custom of feasting on the flesh ot their prisoners is still practised by the tribes who occupy the interior of the island. Tiiese wars arc oftentimes occasioned by the bad conduct of single individuals, their crimes being charged to tlie whole tribe to wiiicli they may be- long. The tribes who live about tlie jjay of Islands are well acquainted with the use of money. Tliey arc also well ac- quainted with fire-arms, and in their conflicts prefer them to the weapons of their own manufacture, which consist of spears * Whales are very numerous about New Zoalan, and a preat nnml)rr of vessels resort there to cnp^aKc in tho \vhaliiig business. Thf> American vessels alone amount to seventy or eighty a year NKW ZKALAM). l'J5 =n keep a \o\\rr ; against tlicir [jf the liii^liost nclicH. They their houses, 1 they are yet isists of a few pot or two, in red witli most a surphis of pi^'s, poultry, whalers* and lieir services. ;giiig, and arc and cunning ; d generous to oned. Their ies are exter- f feasting on le tribes who re oftentimes Iduals, their they may be- ands are well also well ac- refer them to sist of spears lumJirr of vessels ids alone amount m and clubs. W>[\\ sexes are addicted to rum-diitdung and tobacco-chewing — bad practices — wliich, no doubt, they liave acquired from the convicts and other low whites who have settled among them. Suicide is very common among all tlio trll)'.'S. A woman who is badly treated by iicr liusl)and will innnediately go ami bang herself. This is also frcf.juenily done at the death of a near relative. Tiieir laws are ^iini)le, clear, and few in nun. her. The most im])ortant ones are those which concern tl.e division of liuid. The lower classes are perfectly subordinate to their superiors, whom tiny style Etakatika and Epodu. Here is a nioile of government entirelv analogous to that which ])n>vai1.-; in ih'' islands of the Indian Seas, where the chief authority is vrsttd in the Rajah, whose rank resembles that of the Areeken of New Zealand, and who conmiands the services of the pin- g;raii or heads of the dusums, or villages. These latter cor- r''s'0()nd exactlv with the subordinate ':iil''fs above mentioned, ami like them they acknowledge a superior, though, with re- spect to their possessions, they are independent of his control. The religious belief of those who liave not embraced Chris- tianity is as follows : — That they are surrounded by invisible spirits, who must be conciliated by prayers and ceremonies, as they have power over the elements, and can at any time rai.-e the wind and waves against them. They also b(^lievo their priests to be prophets, who can foretell future events, wliieli tiiey (the priests themselves) pretend have been com- municated to them directly from some genii, or spirits, which supposed to have taken theni under their especial care. A few (lavs after our arrival, Pomare, the chief of the town of Para, paid us a visit. He (';ime off in a war-canoe, and was attended by forty of ITw nt-riple, men and women. He was a tall, well'foi'nied man, r.id I should jui) Ave discliarcred the pilot, and by sunset land was out of siglit. On the 13th the wind shifted to the southward and west- ward, and was accompanied with a rough sea, which canso(l tlie ship to roll heavily. Wo passed over the position assigned t'j lloseta Shoal, but could not find anything of it. At daylight, April 14th, we made Sun(hiy Island, but owing to the unfavorable state of the weather Ave did not attempt to land upon it. It is high and rugged, and showed no evi(h'nce of being inhabited by human beings. During the loth we communicated with the American whaler, named Tobacco Plant. She had been out two yeiirs, nnd during that time had captured only seven whale-. The f )llowing night was a very clear on.-, and many meteors wo-e observed, some of which left broad, luminous tracks, tliat wei-e visible for thirty seconds aftei' the disappearance of tlie bcilirs. On the ll>th we saw a water-spout. It commenced fonning about a third of a mile to the \vindward of the ship, and the water, for many yards in circumference. appeare(l in great agitation, flying up in j( ts to the height of forty or fd'ty W'rt. • 'I'liis coi^nnriKin was p;i\('ii to the Tof i^ii Islanls liy ('ii|)t;iin (Hok, who i>\[in- lifMiccd prcnt kindiirs'; 'ion> the riitivrs. I 128 T0NC4A ISLAND. It had consulcnible motion, and crossed the ship's bows, but did not proceed more than two or three miles before it broke. During tlie 2tst we passed through large " fields of sperm- whale-feed," a scummy-looking substance, floating on the sur- face of the water, and of a color nearly red. It seems almost impossible that so immense an animal could subsist on food apparently containing so little nutriment. We were now in latitude 22° 45' 00" south, and longitude 174° 50' 00" east. At 2 P. M. on the 24th we came-to off Nookualofa, the principal town of Tonga Island, and the station of the Wes- leyan Mission. We found here the " Flying Fish," which had separated from us some days previous. The missionary gentlemen, Messrs. Tucker and Rabone, paid us a visit on the same afternoon, and from them we learned that the Christian and heathen parties were at war* with each other. About sunset a large double canoe, filled with warriors, arrived. They belonged to the neighboring islands, Hapai and Vavao, and came to assist the Christian party. This was tlie first double canoe we had seen. It consisted of two canoes joined together by a deck thrown across them both. On the deck a small house was erected, which answered as a cabin ; n])0ve the liouse was a square platform, with a rail around it. The mast was from forty to fifty feet in height, and carried a long yard, upon which was spread a triangular sail made of matting. It was steered by an oar. These canoes tack and wear in all Aveathers, are good sea-boats, and sail from eight to ten miles per hour. April 25th. It is reported that eight heathen, or " Devils,'' and two Christians vrciC killed last night in a skirmish, which ♦ Di rin» our stny fit Noolcnalofii. ( aptaiii Wilkes did all in his jiower to restore peace between the iiartios, but witliout success, and I am sorry to add that the Cliris- tiiiiis were the authors of tlio juiuoipnl liilh 'iltics thrown in l\is way. p's bows, but fore it broke. ■Ids of spcrm- nr on the sur- ; seems almost lbs is t on food were now in 50' 00" cast, ookualofa, the 11 of the Wes- Fisb," whieli riie missionary .3 a visit on tlic .t tbe Christian [ler. with warriors, islands, Hapai u-ty. This was of two canoes both. On the •ed as a cabin ; li rail around it. t, and carried a ir sail made of :anoes tack and sail from eight }n, or " Devils," skirmish, which his power to restore toaJd that the Chris- wav. TONGA ISLAND. 129 I took place between five liundred of the latter, who had gone out to v;ork upon their yam-patches, and about an ecjual num- ber of the heathen. These last out-numbered the Christians, but the latter are assisted by Yaufaliau, or King George of Hapai and Vavao, who can bring in the field SUO fighting men. About 10 A. M., Captain Wilkes, accompanied by several (;f the officers, left the ship i.o pay a visit to King Josiah, or Tubau, who resides at Nookualufa, and is the king of the Christian party. In the course of the afternoon another double-canoe arrive>'l, having one hundred of King George's warriors on board. I'hey were tall, fine-looking men, and all ready for meeting the enemy ; ^onie being armed \<\\.\\ clubs, p-onie with spears, and others with muskets. They had their faces pahited in the most grotesque manner with yelh>w, red, black and v.'hite stripes. I s;iw several witli a red nose, black cheeks, yellow ciiin, and green eyebrows. April 28tli. To-day several of the chiefs of tlie heatlien party visited the ship. According to their statement the Clu'istians are entirely in the fault. 'Vlvy assert that they (lid not commence the present war, but that they were forced into it by the Christians, who seemed determined to exterminate them unless they exchanged the belief of their fatliers f(/r that of the new religion. They al.-^o complained that the Christians endeavored to deprive tliem of tli.ir national amusements, by proliibiting dancing and singing. In the afternoon I visited Nookualofa. It is pleasantly situated, and '^ontains from five to six hundred liouses. It is surrounded by an embankment composed of logs an(\ TONGA ISLAM). 131 , Tlie build- divided into 7118, and tlioso The furnitui'o the vahiiiblos h as beds anti nmates use as e mos(^uitoes, ' troublesonie, l'i* constructed children whom res. It is the Dut in a state n with several a cloth. The c of bark was or twenty feet per side. It wood, about the required of this piece at one mallet It are made. V to make one id out in the Two of these which almost itli wliicli tho ru'ii clunv it for tliotii, er wliich a sniall ito cuiis made of 'Ct ol making tlie lirings (in a jne- rcachcd the ground. They were also very sociable, and gave me to midcrstand by means of signs, that tlie tapa I saw them niakin;^, was intended as a bridal present to a near relatives April 29th. At 2 P. M., the two kings, Josiah and George, came to the Observatory to pay a visit to Captain Wilkes. The latter is about forty years of age, and is a remarkably fine-looking man, being six feet and upwards in height, with regular features, a digiiified mien, and a very intelligent face. Ills attire consisted simply of a large piece of white tapa wound round his waist in loose folds, hanging down to the feet, and leaving his arms and breast entirely bare. He is, as has already been observed, master of Hapai and Vavoa,* and no doubt he will ere long possess himself of Tonga, as King Josiah is represented as a very weak- mihded old man, and caring little about the affairs of govern- ment. Their majesties were attended by about a hundred of tlieir Avarriors, who were armed and painted after tbe manner of war. Previous to returning to Nookualofa, Captain Wilkes brought them on board the ship, and, after treating them to a luncli, he made them sonie presents in the name of the government. Josiah, or Tubou, is a son of Mumuz, who was king in the time of the celebrated Captain Cook. He is about sixty years of age, but ho appears much older. The two kings had scarcely left the ship, when one of the heathen avIio had been alongside for the purpose of trade, came running up to Lieutenant Case and begged him to get his canoe, Avhich, he said, two of George's warriors had taken from him by force. The circumstance was reported by Cap- tain Wilkes to King George, who immediately gave orders for the canoe to be returned to the owner. * These islands are situated about thirty miles from Tonga, and arc represented as ^ein^ hit^li. and subject to severe storms. 'J'lie inliabitauts are of the same extraction as ilie Tougese. i J 'I'lII! 1 n*^ TONGA ISLAND. May 1st. At 11 tl the " Pori jj 1. e; I ay ist. At ii tins morning, the " I'orpojse " arrived. In tlio nftornoon we sent for the pilot. He came on boavd, hut stated that he could not take us to sea, because ho had been ordered by King George not to do so. Captain Wilkes told liiin that if such was the case he might leave the ship. lie then gave orders for the vessels to get under-way, and anchor as near the town as possible. This being done, Lieu- tenant Case was sent to call on his majesty, and demand an explanation for his unfriendly behavior. In a few minute.=^, Mr. C. returned, and reported that King George was out fighting, but that he had seen King Josiah, who assured hiin that George had no desire to prevent our going to sea; tliat the pilot had told us a falsehood, and if Captain Wilkes wished it, he would have him punished. We are now con- vinced that King George knew nothing of ^^'C matter, and that the pilot's story was the result of fear, he having heard another pilot say that if the ship went ashore he would be Imng. He therefore did not wish to have anything to do with us, and supposed by pretending to act under the orders of the king, we would not force him to take the vessel to sea. May 2d. To-day King Josiah sent on board both his pilots, one of whom is a native of Tahiti and speak.^B very good Eliiglish. Towards noon, a fine breeze sprung up iVum the northward and eastward. At 2 got under-way ; shortly after the " Peacock " hove in sight — beat to windward until we joined company with her, when we stood for the western passage, and at r).!" we anchored again. May 3d. This being Sunday, at 10.30 divine service was performed as usual. At meridian, compared chronometers with the other vessels of the squadron. It is reported tliat we leave here to-morrow. May 4th. During these twentv-four hours the wind has ji.sc " arrived, mc on boavd, ;cause he lia(^ aptain Wilkes :?ave the §1iip. nder-wav, and ig done, Lieu- nd demand an L few minuter, eorgc Avas out 10 assured him g to sea ; thn t iiptain Wilkes are now con- '.e matter, and having heard 3 he would be ny thing to do der the orders vessel to sea. oard both his d speaks very irung up iVoni way ; shortly ndward until 3r the western '1 le service was chronometers reported tliat the wind has been blo^\mg from the southward and eastward, accompanied widi rain at intervals. At an early hour tlie squa(h'on got uuder-way and proceeded to sea. I bef( I conclude tliis chapter, to mHk( fe^ propose general remarks. Tonga Island, or Tanga taboo, was discovered by the Dutch about the middle of the seventeenth century, and was by them named Amsterdam. It is of coral formation, and lias a lagoon, which extends about twelve miles into the int('ri(n'. The climate is not considered salubrious. The tempevatnre is frequently 9G° in the shade, and the transitions from h.eat to cold are sudden. Hurricanes prevail during the months of ohmnaiy, February and March ; they vary in duration from twelve to twenty-four hours; and after a severe oric, a famine generally follows, in which great numbers of the inhabitants die ; they blow down trees and destroy all kinds of crops. The native name for them is " /fa hagi fagii," which signifies hi English, the storm that thro.vs down the trees and houses. The soil is very fertile, being composed of several feet in depth of vegetable mould, and is overgrown with a dense forest of cocoa-nut trees. The productions arc yams, taro, bread- fruit, bananas, sugar-cane, shaddocks, oranges, and a species of nutmeg. The inhabitants are probably of the same extraction as the natives of the Society Islands, Marquesas Islands, and tlie Navigator Group, since there is an evident resenddance in their manners, customs and language. The women ar<^ hand- some and graceful in their maimers. Those who have children show a remarkable tenderness for them, and pay the greatest attention to their wants. They generally rise with the sun, and after having enJGyelaii(ls appeared high, woody, aud })icturesque. The weather ilurinjz; the night was very mistv and disat»;reeable. ; On the morning of the 8tl), we reached the harbor of ' Levuka, the principal port of the Island of Ovolau. Great i numbers of the natives had collected on the beach to witness our coming to anchor, and the sensation which the manteuvrc created among them can be better imagined than described ; it is no exaggeration to say, that for the next fifteen minutes it was impossible to hear our own voices, so loud and deafening were their shouts of admiration. Levuka is a line harbor, being capacious, easy of access, I aud perfectly safe. Soon after we came-to, a small cutter, ijibelonging to the ship " Leonidas," of Saiem, Mass., arrived gand anchored. She had come to purchase provisions for the use of the ship, which was at anchor at one of the neighboring islands. In the afternoon, the principal chi':'f of Ovolau, accompanied y an American, named David Whippy, came on board to Iwelcome us. Our countrvman told us the chief halone-stei)S, each of whieli leaur large square 1 cooking-place. with a spheri- near the bot- 1 perpendicular, e cooking-place much of their ys, they are, as t. I was sur- white residents es. They eat, ith whom they are brought up dness. bout the town, of the island. Though mountainous, it is very fertile and picturesque. Change of place changed not the scene. Everywhere it pre- sented the richest soil and most luxuriant vegetation — the verdure running even into the sea. Vines and trees sprung from the very rocks, while the neatly-thatched cottages of the natives, seemingly dropped, perchance, over the landscape, and peeping through cocoa-nut and bread-fruit tree groves, gave a lively appearance to the coup-d^oeil. In this delightful walk we met numbers of people, some traveling down to the ships with their burdens of fruit, others returning empty. 'I'hey all gave us the road, turning to the right and left, and stjinding still till we passed. We got back to the town just in time to witness another in- teresting sight. During our walk several of the " Peacock's" oiiicers came on shore, and they prevailed on Levuka to give tliem a native dance and song. The* performers were all vounjx unmarried women, and the dance consisted of a kind of a l;opping-step, accompanied with clapping of the hands. The subject of the song was the return of the king, Tanoa, to Ambou, after a war which obliged him to fly to a neighbor- ing island. When the performance was over, most of these damsels came to the place where we were standing, and de- sired us to give them some paint. \Ve each happened to have some about us, and shared it out among them, and in a few minutes after we saw tliem with their faces besmeared with it. They, like all the other women we had seen, were almost naked. In color they were a shade ligliter than the men, and several had delicate, pleasing features. On the morning of the 11th, several of the boats left the ship on surveying duties. Al^out noon the " Flying Fish" ar- rived. Her Commaiidor reported tliat she had run on the reef off the Island of Nirn% and for several hours was threat- encii with total shipwreck. She was finally, however, hauled off, and the only damage sustained was the loss of part of her false keel. In the course of the 12th, King Tanoa arrived from Am- bon, and sent his messenger on board to say to Captain Wilkes that he and his chiefs were coming next day to pay him an ollicial visit. The messenger was instructed to state to the king that Ave would be prepared to receive him. His majesty disembarked, accompanied by his attendants, and proceeded directly to the Council House, which is the place where all strangers are entertained. Here they seated them- selves, and connnenced exchanging compliments with the Chief Levuka, and bis bead men. When tliis v/as over, the common people brought food and placed it before the visitors ; it con- sisted of yams, tavo, bread-fruit, and a roasted pig ; the l)resent was accompanied by a speech from Levuka, to which the King's Prime Minister replied ; then came clapping of hands, which is the Fejec mode of expressing thanks. When tlie meal was over, they all indulged in large potations of ava, which also was furnished by the Levukians. At 10 A. j\I., the king and his chiefs visited the ship. They v.erc received with a guard and by all theotficers belong,- ing to the " Peacv)ck,-' Flying Fish," and this ship. The quarter-deck was also dressed off for their reception. When the king came over the side Captain Wilkes tooK him by the hand, and led him aft on the tiuurter-deck, where he was in- vited to take a seat. For a considerable time his majesty said nothing, nor could we conjecture what caused him to be so silent ; at length, however, he directed the interpreter, David Whippy, to ask if we were offended with him, adding, that he was led to suppose so, from the fact that we did not fire a salute upon his coming on board. Wliippy was directed f "~^ FKJKH ISLANDS. 141 to assure liim that we were pleased to see liim, and to add, that it was our intention, before he left tlie ship, to fire a large salute. The king being satisfied with this explanation, a council was held, which resulted in tlie iuloption of rules and regulations for the intercourse of American vessels, similnr to those established at the Navigator and Society Islands. * 'This business over. Captain Wilkes invited all the company into the cabin, where a collation was prepared. 'I'he sight of so many new things as the cabin presented, excited their highest admiration and wonder. In about half an hour the kinu; rose up and expressed a wish to examine the shij) ; upon Avhich, Captain W. took him around all the decks. He expressed great astonishment at the number and size of our guns and at the ship's wheel, and observed, that he could not understand how we could steer our " big canoe" by such contrivance. On returning to the spar-deck the salute was ordered to be fired. He was greatly terrified at the firing of the third gun, which had been charged with a stand of grape that he might see their effect, and desired the inter[)reter to say to Cai)tain Wilkes that he was satisfied, and request him to stop firing. When the company returned to the (|uarter-deck, the purser made them suitable presents in the name of the government ; these consisted of axes, plain-irons, accordions, whales' teeth, shawls, muskets, watches, Windsor soap, tobacco and pipes ; they were received with nmch clapping of hands. His majesty was highly delighted after this on seeing the marine guard go through the manual exercise. In expressing their satisfaction at anything, they repeat the word " vinaka" several times very quickly. Nothing more of importance ])assed, and shortly after, the king rose to take his leave. The guard was turned A copy of these Rules may be seen in llie Api.ciiilix. 142 FKJEE ISLANDS. out, and the sarnc honors paid him on his going away, as when he came on board. Tanoa belongs to the highest order of chiefs and is con- sidered very powerful. He is about 70 years of age, tall and slender ; his countenance is pleasing and intelligent ; he wore the maro with long ends hanging down before and behind, and the usual head-dress of the chiefs called " Sala." On his breast hung an ornament about eighteen inches in circumfer- ence made of ivory, tortoise shell and mother-of-pearl. Upon his arms he had strings of trochus shell ground down so as to resemble rings ; his face, beard and moustaches were bedaubed Avitli black paint ; his hair, like that of all his people is crispy. He has a great impediment in his speech, so much so, that there are few persons who can understand him. He is a good friend to the whites, and calls those who live in his dominions his children, and causes the other natives to treat them with kind- ness and respect. His suite on this occasion consisted of twelve chiefs, and several Tonga men who seemed to be great favorites with him. All these chiefs were young looking men, and their countenances indicated shrewdness and intelligence. Whippy told us, that after they left the ship, they had a great deal to say about their reception ; and all seemed to be pleased, and expressed the wish that " big canoes" would often come to visit them. May 14th. The king paid us another long visit to-day. He came on board, when the colors were hoisted, and did not go away until a few minutes before sunset. He told us he came this time " to see for himself," and asked to dispense with all ceremony. About 1 o'clock two of his people came along- side with his dinner. He sent word to them that he had been invited to dine on board the ship, and to take the dinner on shore again ; it was brought in an iron pot, and consisted of yams and taro. On leaving the ship he shook hands Avith all the officers, and mentioned that he should return to-morrow to Ambou, and in a few days his son Seruh Avould pay us a visit. May loth. This morninj/ the " Peacock " got under- way and stood out to sea. 1 understand t,hc has orders to proceed direcc to Rewa, and make every ^^ndeavor to capture the chief Vendovi — it being known that he is deeply implicated in the murders committed on the crew of the brig "Charles Daggett." The details of this horrible transaction are, as near as wo can learn, as follows : — The brig, some years since, came among these islands to obtain Biclie de Mar.* The captain, (Bachelor,) became acquainted \vith Vendovi, and having, as he supposed, obtained his good^will, determined to make his island one of the principal stations. They previously took on board, as pilots and interpreters, sevoral white men who were living on the islands. He also took the precaution at first of keeping a chief, as hostage, on board ; but who, after a few days, pretending to be sick, was sent on shore. One of tlio inter- preters, who was then at the 13iche de Mar house, perceiving this, and observing at the same time some suspicious move- ments among the natives, became convinced that they had formed the design of taking the vessel, and as soon as he '^aw the mate told him what he had observed, and cautioned iiim to be on his guard. The mate immediately came to die same conclusion, and turned to walk to the landing-place, A-here ho had left his boat ; but Vendovi, who was in company with him suspected that his treachery had been detected, and he deter- mined to secure him. He took the hand of the mate in a friendly manner, and walked along some distance with him. Then suddenly stopping, he seized botli the mate's arms and pinioned • This animal is sometimes called Sea-Pliip. It is found on tho reefs, and when prfr pared, it is sent to China, where it is u.-ed as an ingredient in suuj). 144 FEJEE ISLANDS. tliem to liis side. This was the signal for a general assault. Some of the savages beat out the brains of the mate with clubs while he was held by Vendovi. and a large number attacked the house in which the other men were, and killed two of them. The interpreter and a Tahitian escaped with great difficulty by swimming off to a boat. The next day the bodies of the murdered men were obtained by paying a musket for them, and were buried along-side the vessel. Rev^-a is situated on the eastern side of the Island of Viti- levu, and contains between two and three hundred houses. Its chief is styled a king, and, like Tanoa, exercises absolute authority over his people. May ITth. To-day, David Bateman (marine) departed this life. He had been sick some time with an affection of the lungs. He w^as removed to this ship about ten days ago, from the " Porpoise," and was then very ill. Since our arrival here he was sent on shoi-e, where a suitable place was provided for him, and every attention shown him by the surgeon of the vessel. He was buried in a small garden belonging to one of the white residents. May 19th. We should judge from the great quantities of fish which have been brought along-side for sale for the past two or three days^ that they are very abundant in these waters. They were taken mostly by the women, on the reefs, at low water, by means of hand-nets. It is a very common thing for the natives of the other islands to land on these reefs, and carry off the women for cannibal purposes. I was an eye- witness of an attempt of the kind made j-esterday after- noon. About 4 o'clock, a canoe, manned by three men, rounded the southern point off the island, an^. stood in for the reef. The women immediately threw down their nets and plunged into the water ; clubs and pieces of coral were then r FEJEE ISLANDS. 145 thrown at tlicm by their pursuers, and at length two of the •-»oor creatures were captured. Tl-'C canoe, liowever, soon cap- sized ; and, while the men were emplo^'cd in righting it, tho two women succeeded in making their escape, for their pursuers dared not to follow them very close into the shore, lest tliey sliould themselves full into the hands of the enraged Levukians. It is said that the Hesh of women is preferred to that of men ; and that they consider the arms and thighs the choicest parts. This forenoon we received a visit from Tanoa's son, Scruh, and his attendant chiefs. He had the same honors paid him as were shown to his father. He is between twenty-five and thirty years old — has regular features and a good figure. His behavior was proper enough while in our company ; but I am informed by the resident whites that he is exceedingly haughty and overbearing towards the natives. Ag takes advantage of his higli position to plunder the lower order of chiefs of their v/hales' teeth, muskets, knives, or anything else they may have ill their possession, which he fancies. Indeed, his e3'e bespeaks a savage, tyrannical heart. He is the eldest of Tanoa's sons — consequently is the heir to the kingly power. His dress con- sisted of the tapa turban, a large whale's tooth, which hung pendent on his breast, two armlets made of the leaf of pan- danus, resembling light yellow ribbon, and the '^ Searo," or white tapa, which was wound round his waist four or five times, leaving one end of it trailing on the deck. His hair and beard were jet black, and combed and twisted with great care. The Fejee chiefs pay great attention to this part of their toilet, and have regular barbers attached to their estab- lishments. Seruh had his prophet, or '' Ambati," with him, who appeared to be a shrewd, intelligent man. The whole party seemed delighted with the ship, and made us quite a visitation. I; !i i! 1 May 21st. We hear that the " Peacock " has succeeded in capturing Vendovi. It was effected by seizing his brother chiefs, and retaining tliem on board the ship until he was deHvered up to Captain Hudson. It is very gratifying for us to learn that a messenger arrived here this afternoon from Ambou, with permission for the Cmef Lcvuka to take the taboo off the cocoa-nut trees. This will enable us to procure the fruit in future. The taboo was laid on a short time previous to our arrival in the islands, and, I am informed, was done out of respect to a high chief, who was drowned in the harbor of Rewa. None but chiefs of high rank can remove the taboo ; hence the necessity of waiting in the present instance for the chiefs of Ambou to give orders on the subject. The taboo lasts from two to twelve months in the case of chiefs, according to their rank for a common person, usually about four days. Trees that are tabooed have bands of pandanus or cvjoa-nut leaves fastened around them, and a piece of wood is set up in a small mound of earth near by. May 22d. At sunset we sent eleven men to the observa- tory, armed with muskets and cutlasses. We were advised to take this precautionary step by Whippy and the other whites residing on the island, who, of rcurse, are well ac- quainted with the character of the natives. They assured us that Vendovi's friends wx-re watching for an opportunity to avenge themselves upon us ; and if we had any property on shore, it could not be too well protected. It is the Fejee cus- tom to attack their enemies under cover of night, when it is not easy to discover their approach. From what I have seen and heard, I think they are the most treacherous and cowardly people on the face of the earth. May 23d. It is reported here that the greatest excitement prevails at Rewa on account of Vendovi's capture. Shotted all the guns; shifted our hcitli iicariT chc Observatory, aiiin;4 the murder of part of the crew of the '' Charles n:<.art of the groiii>. It is here that such laiga qnontities of sandal-wood have l)ecn shijipcd for the China market. t Vendovi was taken to the United States, but soon after his arrival he sickened and died in the Navy Hosiuljl at Brooklyn, New York, hitcs has been liat such liuga le sickened and fkji;k islands. 151 1)0 our 1:iniicli, wliicli, to^jjctliiT witli the fir.-t cutler in clinr^o i»i' Mr. Kiiox, li'tL lliu sliip ii few days previous ou surveyiii;^ duties. It was ex|)ecteearaiiee next, but nioineiit al'ti-r iuoum ut jiassed away with- out our beinjr al)le to see aiiytinnj^ of lier. Some, therefore, beheved tluit she had capsizeil (hirini^ the recent storms, otliers tiiat she liad been capturod l)y the natives. At last, the launch reached the ship, when it appeare*! from Mr. Knox'.s report, that the latter opinion was correct, lie stated that slu; j;ot on a reivf near by Sualib l>ay, aiid "while he was ( ndeavorin;^ tu elled to K'ave the cutter in the ])ossessiou of the natives and take nd'u^o on board the hiunch. After Mr. Knox left, the robbers draer of the gun, com- municated with the powder-horn which he held in his hand, and exploded. This communicated with a cylinder weighing about two pounds, which he carried in the bosom of his shirt, which also exploded, and burned his breast, stomach and face in the most dreadful manner. He was immediately conveyed to the " Peacock," where every attention was shown him. On her arrival at this place he was sent on shore, where a com- fortable tent was erected for his accommodation. He was constantly attended by a surgeon, but to no purpose. After forty days and forty nights of the most excruciating suf- fering, he expired. He was buried on a point near the ships, with a head-stone and siutable epitaph. He was a native of France, and in his last moments communicated to Doctor Guillou his real name, which was Vincente Pierre Boudette. It is proper to state that the cylinders used on the occasion were made of canvas. Had they been flannel, the usual material, we presume the accident would not have happened. On the 22d, the " Peacock " got under-way, with orders to proceed to Matawata Bay. On the afternoon of the 28th, Captain Hudson came on board ; and at an early hour the following day, we set out to join the "Peacock" ; but the wind fell light and baffling, and we finally were obliged tc anchor again off Naloa Bay, to keep from being drifted on the neighboring reef. Naloa Bay is remarkable as the spot where the Chevalier Dillon was attacked :!i'|i I' I 154 FEJEE ISLANDS. by the natives. Here, also, the " Leonidas " had one of her sailors killed by a chief, named Gingi, only a few weeks before. The reason he assigned for the act was, that the sailor had maltreated Inm when he was to the islands in a previous voyage. We endeavored to seize the murderer, but without success. We saw some pottery here of an excellent quality, manu- factured by the native women. The clay used is of a red color, and is obtained in great quantities on the shores of tlie bay. Some of the vessels were very gracefully shaped, and had tracings executed upon them by young girls with the fibres of a cocoa-nut leaf. The pots are dried in the open air ; and for baking them they use a common wood fire, without any oven ; but the tenacity of the clay is such, that even without baking the pottery is sufficiently strong. The different parts are all made separately and afterwards joined ; but this is done so well, that it is impossible to discover the joints, especially if the vessel has been varnished.* About noon next day (29th), we arrived at the place of our destination. Matawata is a large town, and situated near the beach. The country around it is quite level — has but few trees on it, and the soil does not appear to be fertile ; but the town is well built, and has considerable trade in Biche de Mar and tor- toise-shell. The king's name is Tui-Matawata. He is old, and suffers very much from the elephantiasis — so much so, that he can scarcely walk. He has several wives ; among others, one called Henrietta, who is a native of Rotuma- -has a fair com- plexion, and is quite good-looking. Our pilot was well This varnish consists of the resin of a species of piue, mixed with a decoclion vi the mangrove bark. I i< the place of our FEJEE ISLANDS. 155 ixed with a decoction acquiiiiitt'd Avitli her history ; and one day he related to me the circumstances under \vliieh she came, or riither "was forced, to marry the old king. She had, ^vhile at her native ishmd, married a Tahitian who was residing there, and had gone with him to Tahiti on a visit. Wishing to return to their home, they had taken passage on board of a Salem vessel engaged in the Biehe do Mar trade. On arriving at Matawata, tliey were invited to land and remain with some of her countrymen, many of whom were residing there. Unfortunately, the king saw her, and took a fancy to her ; and he inniiediately killed and feasted on her husband, and then compelled her to become one of his wives. The pilot added, that she was disgusted with the old savage, and if she ever had the chance to run away from him, she would avail herself of it. 'We found at Matawata a large number of plants which are not noticed in any of the botanical works. On the 30th of July we connnenced to survey the bay. Next morning all the signals were found missing, the natives having stolen them during the night. As such acts were cal- culated to delay our operations. Captain Hudson sent an officer to the king to state to him, that if the signals were not re- stored by 12 o'clock on the same day, he should be obliged to send an armed force on sliore to punish the inhabitants. He requested the officer to inform Captain Hudson that it was not his people who had stolen the flags, but the natives who lived in the mountains, and over whom he had no control. W^e had good reasons for doubting his majesty's veracity, and on re- demanding the signals they were brought on board. This incident shows how little dependence can be placed on the \\o\'(\ of a Fejeeian. Indeed, I have been assured that they tell a falsehood in preference, -when the truth would better answer their purpose ; iuid adroit lying is regarded as an accompllsliment, and one avIio is expert u '.t is sure of a friendl}' reception wherever lie goes. Whet. • \e ■white resi- dents wish to obtain the trutli, they inva>*iabiy request them not to tell lies. On the 31st, several of our boats retarned from the leeward Islands, bringing the melancholy intelligersce of the murder of Messrs. Underwood and Henry by the natives of Malolo. We learned by the same boats of the death of one of thn sailors, named Smith, who was attached to the schooner " Tyvity"* as one of her crew. " The following are the circumstances connected with the death of Messrs. Underwood and Hein'v : — On the 28d ultimo. Lieutenants Alden and Underwood came to anchor on the reef at Malololie, which is connected with the large island Malolo, by a coral isthmus, bare at low water. Here Mr. Underwood landed alone, and soon encoun- tered a boy witli an armful of clubs, who, when asked whether any provisons could be purchased in the neighborhood, answered, ''plenty, plenty." Mr. Underwood directed him to lead the w^y to the place he referred to. On the beach they fell in with a party of men who were quite as much confused at tlie sight of Mr. Underwood as the boy had been before. At tliis juncture. Lieutenant Alden recalled Mr. Underwood by sig- nal, and this, perhaps, prevented an attack on him that after- noon. The next morning (July 24th), the " Peacock's" cutter joined the other boats. The scarcity of provisions, and the distance of the schooner, whose own necessities were also pressing, now made it absolutely necessary' to obtain supplies ashore. The natives pretended to have an abundance of food at the village of Malolo-levu, but could not be induced to * Tlio sclmonei' bplongod to nno of tho white men residing on Ovolau, auJ wa? hiied to go about the islaiid>; to inocnie ficKli i)ro\ isions for the sqnndron. VOOD 't is sure of a ; \c Avliite resi- y request them L'om the leeward f the murder of ives of Malolo. I of one of the ;o the schooner nected with the and Underwood ich is connected imus, bare at low and soon encoun- en asked whether Drliood, answered, him to lead the each they fell in confused at tlie 3efore. At this aderwood by si,£^- n him that afur- eacock's" cutter [ ovisions, and tlic ssities were also obtain supplies )undanco of food ot be induced to g on Ovolau, auJ *!>' i squadron. transport it across the isthmus, which was impassable for boats, except at high-water. While trying to think of some way of removing this difficulty, a man, who called himself the orator of the town, arrived, ai.d delivered an invitation from his chief to go to Malolo-levu, and take off a present that had been prepared for them on the beach. This story of I'ejee manufacture, was little credited, but as there was reason to believe that provisions might be purchased from some of the natives, inid the case was urgent, Mr. Underwood, whose boat drew the least water, volunteered to make the attempt. Accordingly, in a few minutes he shoved oft'; but after pulling a short distance, observing that he had no one with him wlio could talk with the natives, he returned and asked for a New ZeaJander, named John Sack. Having taken this man, he again shoved off and pulled for the beach. Mr. Alden fol- lowed as soon as the tide permitted, and Mr. Emmons, after taking a round of angles. Lieutenat Alden lost no time, -after anchoring off the town, in getting a chief in his boat as a I hostage for Mr. Underwood's safety. This native early at- tempted to escape in a canoe, but Mr. Alden forced him back irto the boat, and threatened to shoot him if he did so again. In the meantime Mr. Underwood continued to barter with the natives, and sent off a message to Mr. Alden for muskets and Ipowder, which could not be supplied. Mr. Henry noAV re- quested permission to land, and during his absence Mr. Em- mons arrived. A second message soon afterwards came froiii Mr. Underwood, requiring another hatchet to effect his pur- chase. Lieutenant Alden sent the hatchet, with directions to Mr. U., that as the natives did not appear to be willing to trade, he should lose no time in coming oft* iu his boat. At his moment the hostage jumped over1)oard, and made fr the here in a diagonal line to avoid being shot at. Mr. Alden 158 MASSACRE OF LIKUTKNANT UNDERWOOD immediately leveled his gun at him, and ordered him to stop ; he slackened his pace for a moment, and then continued to retreat, upon "which a ball was fired over his head, but none at his body, lest it might provoke an attack on Lieutenant Underwood. The escape of the hostage was evirlently tlie preconcerted signal for an attack on the shore-party. The chief immediately gave orders to make fight, by the cry of " Turanga," " Turanga." Mr. Underwood was at this mo- ment knocked down and wounded in the shoulder with a spear, but he recovered from the stunning effects of the blow, and killed the native who threw the spear. At the same time two other natives seized the musket of a sailor, named Clark, and tried to wrest it from him. One of these he stabbed in the breast with his sheath-knife, the other Mr. Underwood struck on the head with the butt-end of his pistol, upon which both relinquished their hold. Lieutenant Underwood now ordered the crew to lose no time in regaining the boat, while he and Mr. Henry covered their retreat. In this effort lie killed a native with one of .his pistols, and was in the act of drawing the second from his belt, when a blow which he re- ceived on the head, brought him. to the ground almoot sense- less. Recovering himself he renewed the contest, and killed another native, but at length received a cut across the fore- head with a pole-axe, Avhich terminated his valuable life. In the meantime Mr. Henry had shot one of the natives with his pistol-knife, and cut another down with the same weapon, but seeing Lieutenant Underwood dead, was hastening to the boat, when a missile struck him on the back of the head and brought him to the ground. Clark, after shooting the man wlio killed Mr. Underwood, succeeded in regaining the boat, but Avas severely wounded. On seeing the attack. Lieutenants Alden and Emmons OOD AND MIDSHIPMAN HENRY. 159 [}d liiin to step ; in continued to head, but none on Lieutenant i evi'lently the re-party. The by the cry of vas at this nio- :ioulder Avith a 3ts of the blow, t the same time ', named Clark, ese he stabbed Mr. Underwood itol, upon which Jnderwood now the boat, while this effort he in the act of which he re- al moot seiise- est, and killed cross the fore- uable life. of the natives with the same was hastening ck of the head r shooting the regaining the and Emmons steered for the shore with the boats under their charge. When the boats reached .he bcacli, the savages retreated precipi- tately in the mangrove bushes, carrying with them their dead and wounded. Mr. Alden was among the first who landed, and going up to Mr. Underwood he raised his head, and asked him if he had anything to communicate through him to his poor wife; but, alas! he was too far gone to speak. His skull was literally smashed to pieces. Some hopes were at first entertained that Mr. Henry was yet alive, but when a vein was opened no blood Avas found to flow. Both bodies had been stripped by the natives, and were laying in the sand, whence they were conveyed to the boats. Mr. Emmons took possession of a canoe that the natives had abandoned, and no enemy being now in sight, the boats, with colors half-masted and union down, sailed across the isthmus and escaped by a pas- sage, where they might have been attacked at great advantage The schooner by this time got under-way without suspicion of any disaster. The sensation that was excited when the boats arrived along-side and exposed to view the mangled bodies, can be more easily imagined than described. Captain Wilkes, in particular, wept over them like a child. He kissed his nephew, Mr. Henry, on the face several times, and then turning around to Mr. Underwood, patted hnn on the breast and repeated the words, ■' Poor fellow." Every attention was paid to the wounded and dead, that affection and regard could dictate. There being no doubt from the reports of all parties pre- sent, that this outrage was entirely unprovoked, Captain Wilkes determined to inflict the punishment it merited, and this, not because he wished to gratify any feelings of revenge, but for the sake of saving the lives of other whites who might visit the Group after the expedition left. ^"^ 160 MASSACRE OF LIEUTP:NANT UNDERWOOD I ) Accordin;^!}', the first cutters of the " Vinccnrics " and *' Peacock," now in cliart^e of Mr. Kid, were dispatched to keep guard round the ishmd, and preveiit the escape of any of the inliabitants, while the schooner got under-way, and pro- ceeihjd to a small island to inter the dead. Here they were laid side by side in the same grave. It was a lonely and suit- a])le S[ujt that had been chosen in a shade so dense that scarce a ray of the sun couhl penetrate it. The grave was dug deep in the pure white sand, and sutliciently wide for the two corpses. Mr. Agate read the funeral service. After the graves had been closed, three vollies were fired over them. Every precaution was then taken to obliterate all marks that might indicate to the odious cannibals, the resting-place of the sacred dead. Places remote from the grave were more dis- turbed by footsteps and digging than the grave itself, and leaves were scattered over a lage space of ground. The islet where they repose, is called Henry's island, and the cluster to which it belongs bears the name of Under- wood- s Group. A single canoe attempted to leave Malolo during the burial of the dead, but was driven back with the loss of one of her people. The natives came to the beach in large numbers, taunting the boats with the cry of " Lagoini, lagoini papa langa ;" in English, " Come on, come on, white men ;" but the orders expressly forbade a landing, or any other demon- stration which might abate their arrogant confidence. About noon the schooner reached her former berth, and shortly after the " Porpoise " hove in sight. When she an- chored, Mr. Emmons boarded her, and comnmnicated the melancholy news to Captain Ringgold. Preparations were now commenced in good earnest to punish the savages ; the arms were got in good order, the parties duly organized, and OD AND MIDSHIPMAN IIKNKY. 101 serines " and lispatclied to ape of any of tiy, and pvo- iYC they were nely and suit- se that scarec ^^ ■was dug dee^) for tlie two ;. After the d over them. 11 mjirks that ig-place of the 'ere more dis- ve itseU", and id. 's island, and ne of Under- ing the burial of one of her ■ge numbers, lagoini papa e men ;" but other demon- nce. r berth, and tVhen she an- mnicated the arations were savages ; the rganized, and by 10 A. M. next dny the whole of the di.-pos^ahle foree of the bri;i: and sehooner, consisting of eighty nien. landed at the ^vc^^t side of the island, wliile the vessels t< < k commanding positions olf the reef. After landing, the n.vi were formed in three divisions, and took up their line of iu.:reh, the whole (.tiuiniaiided by Captain Ringgold. On arriving iit the princi- pal town, they found it to be of a large size, well fortified witli strong posts, driven into the ground close together, and the intervening spaces filled up with a kind of wieker-work, and the whole surrounded by a deep ditch, filled with water. When within a few yar^-i of the entrance, which was a sni;ill low gate, scarcely large lio' ;h to admit one person, the prin- cipal chief came out, um' m;. le the following taunting speech : "'Come on; 1 ;ind my ;«euple are ready for you; Fejee men are good to eat, but wince men are better, and intend this night to have some o. ^ -u for supper. Fejee men like to eat white men ; we are glad to see you ; yes, we are glad to see vou." He then rallied his men, and ordered them to fire at our people from behind the fortifications. Captain Ringgold now made a signal for two of the divisions, which had been sent to destroy the yam-patclies, and cut down the cocoa-nut trees, to join him, which they did with great alacrity. He then formed the whole in one line, and marched up to the intrenchments, under a heavy shower of spears nnd arms. He next directed several rockets to be set oil' in hopes of firing the town, and thus compel the savages to abandon their intrenchments ; but this did not produce the desired effect, and he therefore opened his fire upon the forti- fication. Now was seen what many of those present had not before believed, the expertness with which these people dodge a shot at the flash of a gun ; still our men took plenty of time in firing, and the number of killed and wounded of the enemy r 162 MASSACRE OF LTKUTENANT UNDF.RWOOD was iinmense. Up^var(ls of twenty Avcrc seen to fall at tlie first volley. In tliis maimer -was the contest kept up until the principal chief was shot dead, a circumstance, whicli, together with the half-burned state of the town — for the rockets even- tually set a large liut on fire — spread a great panic among them, and they fled through a gate, which was intentionally left unattacked, carrying their dead and v>ounded on their backs. At this moment a volley of musketry might have greatly increased the destruction of lives; but as women and children could be distinguished amid the throng of fugitives, the order was given to cease firing, and they were allowed to escape. Our people now marched into the town, and threw upon the flames whatever they found that might be valuable to the enemy. This involved the destruction of the whole wealth of the island, which had been centered here on ac- count of its great strength. This fact serves to show that the savages were not ignorant of the consequences that were likely to follow their foul deed, and had made timely prepara- tions for defending themselves. Several things that had belonged to Mr. Underwood were seen among the ruins. A little child, who seemed to have lost its parents, and whom our people endeavored to avoid shooting during the conflict, was burned to death in one of the houses. The dead that the natives had been obliged to leave behind, were all found shot through the head. Many lay beside a mound which had been but recently raised for additional security. While Captain Ringgold and party were thus employed on shore, Captain Wilkes and Messrs. Alden and Emmons were not less active on the water. Scarcelv had the action com- menced with the town, when two large canoes were seen stand- l;l:!!l!i.l AND MinSHIPMAN HENRY. 163 Ing over from Vita Leva. Immediately the si^^n.J to intercept them was made, and Mr. Emmons reached them first, and made signs to tliem to heave-to; but they stood on their course to Malolo. Upon this Mr. Emmons announced his intention to destroy them. Several were killed at the first fire, and tho rest jumped overboard and made for the shore. Mr. Emniong continued to fire at the fugitives until he fell in Avith Cnptaia Wilkes, who directed him to spare the lives of the survivors, but make them prisoners. Lieutenant En»mons had already rescued a little child, and now attempted to save its mother. This woman had at first been taken for a man, and fired upon from Captain Wilkes's boat, but when the error was dis- covered they ceased firing, and hastened to her rescue. In her alarm, however, she mistook the design, and continually (liveU to avoid the boat, so that they were obliged to abandon lier, and she swam towards Vita Leva, ten miles distant. We heard afterwards that she had safely arrived there. The other prisoners taken by ':he boats were the head-chief's wife, two girls, each about sixteen years of age, and a boy about five years old. After taking the prisoners to the brig, where they were kindly treated by both officers and sailors, all the boats proceeded to the leeward part of the island to destroy another town. When they had almost reached the place, the shore- party hailed, and informed them that five canoes had been seen to put oflf from the western side of the island. Mr. Emmons was forthwith dispatched after them, while the other boats remained to destroy the town, which they speedily ac- complished. After a very long and fatiguing pull, Mr. Emmons overtook the fugitives. They were at first some distance apart, but as he approached them they closed their line, and stood ready for an attack. Their numbers were partly concealed behind a . I ii ii 164 MASSACRE OF LIKUTENANT UNDERWOOD breastwork of baskets, fillfd with roots, wlilcli thoyliad thrown up for the occasion. Mr. Kiiimons wislied to pull to wind- ward to avail himself of a lij^ht breeze, but he had only got a few yards off when some of the canoes appeared disposed to commence the attack, and executed a manoeuvre by which they expected to get his boat on the reef when she miglit be carried by boarding. But Mr. Emmons brought his blunder- buss to bear upon the natives, and ordered them to change their course, which, strange to say, they had the folly to do. Being now where there was plenty of water. Lieutenant Em- mons opened fire upon the canoes. Large numbers were killed and wounded, and the rest leaped overboard. During the pursuit which followed, several of the fugitives gained a canoe which hiid drifted out from the shore, and put off to seaward, passing over a reef upon which there was not suffi- cient water for the boat to float. Three of the captured canoes were cleared ef tlicir " lumber," and taken along-side tlie " Porpoise." The fourth being badly stove, was left on the reef until next morning, when she was also secured. Subsequent investigation confirmed the opinion, that these canoes had left the island with the express intention of cut- ting off 3,Ir. Emmons. Their known loss was twenty-seven men ; but there is good reason to believe that it was much greater. Our own party had the good fortune to escape with a few slight wounds. It was Captain Wilkes's intention to renew the attack next day, (27th,) but early in the morning one of the women who had been liberated the preceding day, came down to the beach, and begged for mercy to the survivors, describing in moving terms the misery to which they had been reduced. Captain Wilkes told her to return to those who sent her, and state that he would not listen to the mediation of women ; ji OD AND MIDSHIPMAN IlKNRY. hMi ; lunl thrown )ull to wliul- ul only got a [ disposed to re by wliidi ihe mi gilt })c his blundcr- m to change ! folly to do. utenant Eni- Limbers were ird. During ivcs gained a id put oft' to vas not sutli- the captured en along-side was k'l't on heured. n, that these ntlon of cut- twenty-seven it was much escape ^Yith the attack If the -women down to the lescribing in ■reduced. Iho sent her, In of women ; but a little while Jiftor he di>]iateh('d two boys, who hat away. At last they began to n]>pear, moving slowly on their hands and knees, and nlling the air with their wailings. When yet a considerable distance off they halted, and sent messengers to say that they were afraid to approach nearer ; but the messenger was ordered to tell them that they nmst do as they had been directed in the morning. On receiving this answer, they resumed their wailings, and at the same time moved towards tlie hill. Every now and then they would stop and raising their faces from the ground send up a piteous cry. In this way did they manage, until at last they reached the spot where Captain Wilkes was standing, when they threw themselves at his feet. After a minute or two, one of their old men began in a tone of the deepest humility to supplicate forgiveness, and to promise that the people of Malolo would never again kill white man. He added, that they acknowledged themselves conquered and that the island belonged to us ; that they had lost everything ; that the two great chiefs of the island and all their best war- riors had been killed ; all their provisions desti-oyed, and their houses burned ; that they were now convinced that the white men were better warriors than the Fejee men. During the whole time he was speaking, all the othr s remained bent down with their heads touching gvoun( 166 FKJEK ISLANDS. They were asked many qiiostions, and among others, what had induced them to commit the nmrder. They admitted that Lieut. Underwood and Mr. Henry had done nothing to oft'end them, and tliat they had been killed without the slightest cause. Captain Wilkes now told them that he would grant them pardon, but they must supply the squadron with water and provisions ; with which conditions they agreed to comply. The next day they appeared on the beach and fulfilled their agreement. This was according to their custom, that the conquered should work for the victors. They acknowledged their loss to be about one hundred persons ; we did not lose in the combat, a single life, and only very fcAV were wounded. These wounds were inflicted with spears and arrows, for their fire-arms were rendered harmless by being over-charged. It is said to be their practice to put charges into them according to the size of the person they intend to fire at ; they almost fill the barrel with powder when they shoot at a large man. Thus ended this affair, an awful and a severe lesson to the savages, but not more so than they deserved. It must be re- membered that the murderers were looked upon by their own countrymen as a set of pirates. I think it Avould be a blessing to the whole race if the United States or some other civilized nation would conquer them into subjection and order. It would at once put an end to their dissensions and barbari- ties, and afford encouragement to commerce and safety to per- son and property. The moment Captain Hudson received intelligence of the melancholy disaster, he directed the ship's colors to be half- masted, and issued the following order : — " Information having been received from the commander of the expedition, of the death of Lieutenant Joseph A. Under- wood and Midsliipman Wilkes Henry, on tlie 12tli instant, who were treacherously murdered by the natives of Malolo, one of the Fejee Islands, the ofFiecrs of the United States ships " Vincennes " and " Peacock " will wear the usual badge of mourning for thirty days, as a testimony of regard for the memory of their departed brother officers, who have been suddenly cut oft' from their sphere of usefulness in the expedition, while arduously engaged in the performance of their public duty. (Signed) " William L. Hudson, " Commanding U. S. Ship ' Peacock.' '' Fejee Islands.^^ On the 2d of August, the whale-ship " Triton," fifteen months from the United States, arrived ; as also the schooner " Tyvity," with three thousand yams. The latter likewise brought as passengers, tiie second-mate and cooper of the American whale-ship ^'Shylock,-' which was lost on a reef* off Turtle Island, a few weeks since. It appears from their account that the loss of this fine ship is to be attributed to the negligence of the man who had the *' look-out " forward at the time the accident occurred. They charge him of going to sleep, and not knowing the danger the ship was in until she had struck. The captain and the first-mate have proceeded to Hobart Town in an English brig. The second-mate has shipped on board the " Triton," and is said to have behaved in the most shameful maimer, rcfushig to assist the surviving sufferers, •The position of tliis reef \va> afterwards dttermined by tlic l)rifj " Porpoise."' It lies in latitude 19'' 48' 00" south, and longitude 178" 3.")' 00" west. The reef is six-and- a-lialf inilos loni^, and lias an illipiical form. Turtle Islaiiil is about nine miles in cir- cumference, and has a few inhabitants, wiiose luanncrs and customs are similar to those of the Tonga people. 168 FEJEE ISLANDS. and left them on the "wreck, exposed to the cruelties of the natives. August 7th, the " Porpoise " came m and anchored. She left Ovalau on the 4th instant. Captain Wilkes "was there in the " Flying Fish," and was to follow the brig in a few days. During the afternoon of the 8th, a meeting was held on board the " Peacock," when Captain Hudson was called to the chair, and Lieutenant R. E. Johnson appointed secretary. The chair announced that the object of the meeting was to obtain a joint expression of feeling in relation to the death of Lieutenant Joseph A. Underwood and IVIidshipman Wilkes Henry, avIio, on the 24th day of July last, were treacherously killed by the natives of Malolo. On motion, a committee, consisting of Lieut. Johnson, Dr. J. C. Palmer, Mr. William Rich (botanist). Passed Midship- man Blunt, and Midshipman Blair, were appointed to draft resolutions befitting this melancholy occasion. The committee retired, in obedience to their instructions ; and after a short recess, the meeting was called to order again, and the chairman of the committee reported the follow- ing resolutions, which were unanimously adopted : — Resolved, That amid the toils and dangers which the officers of this expedition have been called upon to encounter, they could have incurred no deeper calamity than the untimely death of their beloved coadjutors. Lieutenant Joseph A. Under- wood and Midshipman Wilkes Henry. Resolved, That the loss of these gentlemen is most deeply mourned, not only on account of their personal worth, but from our sincere interest in the expedition, which has been deprived of two of its most efficient officers. Resolved, That the energetic and persevering manner in FEJEE ISLANDS. 169 ties of the lorcd. She -vviis there I ill a few IS hold on 5 called to secretary. ;iiig was to le death of laxTi Wilkes ;acherously ilinson, Dr. d Midship- d to draft structions ; I to order the follow- ■\vhich the encounter, e untimely A. Under- lOot deeply vorth, but has been manner in which the lamented dead performed all duties, however arduous, afford an example worthy our emulation ; and that the strongest terms of sympathy with their friends at homo are inadequate to the expression of our regret. Resolved, That, as a mark of affection and respect for our lost associates, we cause a monument, designed among ourselves, to be erected tc their memory in the cemetery at Mount Auburn. Resolved, That a copy of these resolutions be transmitted to the bereaved relatives of Lieutenant Underwood and Mid- shipman Henry. It was further resolved, that a committee of nine persons be appointed to carry the foregoing resolutions into effect ; and that this committee consist of the following gentlemen, to wit : — Captain William L. Hudson, Lieut. James Alden, Lieut. H. L. Case, Dr. J. C. Palmer, Mr. T. R. Peo.l, (orni- thologist). Passed Midshipman S. F. Blunt, Purser Wm. Speiden, Midshipman George W. Clark, Midshipman J. L. Blair. It was next moved and resolved, that the sum of two thou- sand dollars be appropriated for the erection of the monument ; and that the pursers of the expedition be authorized to charge the said sum to the officers and scientific corps, in proportion to the rate of their several salaries. The subject of an inscription was referfed to a future meeting, and the committee were instructed to select a model from the designs which they might hereafter receive. The meeting then adjourned. On the 9tli of August, the " Flying Fish " arrived, and Captain Wilkes rejoined the " Vincennes." Next day, it being Sunday, the chaplaii of the squadron delivered a sermon on the death of Messrs. Underwood 170 FKJKE ISLANDS. |i < and Henry. The foU owing portions of it may be interest- ing :— i Lieutenant Joseph A. Underwood, was born July 15th, 1811. lie entered the Navy of the United States in 1829, and since that time had been almost constantly employed in active service. He was one of the officers earliest attached to the expedition in which we are embarked, and had been nearly four years connected with it, at the time of his decease. With | some cf you, he encountered the dangers and hardships inci- i dent to a passage round the stormy Cape and of Noir Island ; ; saw and endured with manly exposure the more appalling prospect that tried men's souls. For a year previous to his ; death, with us who survive, he shared the risks in the ship, in the boat, and on shore, peculiar to a passage among the reefs ' and islets that thicklv stii-i this southern sea. With health unbroken, he sustained the blighting heat and piercing cold of the torrid and the frigid zones, as we passed rapidly from clime to clime. He bore unmoved, the arduous toils, priva- tions, and perils cf our southern cruise, when, amid the ice- islands of the Polar Ocean, we threaded our devious and cf A "'angerous v^iij. With us he visited these barbarous | ic-yixvAi, and had been repeatedly engaged in the arduous and i perilous duty in which he met his melancholy and untimely ' fate. Our lamented friend had been married but a few weeks, when he left his native land, and had completed his twent}'- ninth year, only two days previous to his leaving the ship for the last time. While I recognize the charitable sentiment — '' Nought of the dead, but good," I am happy to assure you, that in relation to our departed friends, it will be in perfect accordance with that sentiment to say, " Nought of the dead but truth." With the Roman orator, I can sav, I come to bury our fallen friends, not to praise them. And if a year-s 1 EJEE ISLANDS. 171 ly be interest- irn July loth, tates in 1829, ly employed in iest attached to lad been nearly iecease. With hardships inci- »f Noir Island ; more appalling previous to his 5 in the ship, in mong the reefs . With health piercing cold of !d rapidly from us toils, priva- amid the ice- ur devious and hese barbarous ;he arduous and and untimely lut a few weeks, ed his twenty- ng the ship for le sentiment — r to assure you, 1 be in perfect ;ht of the dead say, I come to Vnd if a yeai'S acquaintance can give me an opportunity to jt i^", I c.i tes- tify to his amiability and worth. His d'vu , .nt ?iL v, s Jlc;tin- guished by a studious regard to propriet . u.*-! •.'/"••' .-U;', and in his conversation and conduct, he respecicd !■•>,; iv lings and sentiments of those with whom he was ast'ocii-Cij. His man- ners and address were those of an accomplished gentleman. There was no affected distance or reserve, or any manifest consciousness of superior understanding. His politeness was not merely external, but that of the heart. In his intercourse with men of every condition, his conduct v.as dictated by benevolence and regulated by that great law of moral ef his profession he added various collateral attainments and polite accomplishments. His acquaintance with pure raathemat'cs, a s applicable to astronomy, navigation, and surveying, was know.i to you all. He was familiar with several of the modern lan- guages of Europe; and wlio has not seen the chaste, beautiful and faithful productions of his pencil, with v.hich his portfolio was enriched ? In r(gard to his int-.dlectual character, he pos- sessed a mind of th first order. Hi ; conceptions wexe rlear. ii '" •■..H* Ci» . ■*■' **■* .--J concise and vivid ; his judgment was remarkably correct ; he reasoned with calm deliberation, and examined a subject with a prodigious grasp of mind in all extensive bearings. If it embraced numerous and various particulars, he directed his attention to each, and suspended his decision until he had ex- amined them alj. Having; thus with a well-balanced mind looked throupfh a subject, he rarely had occasion to retrace his steps, or renounce the conclusions to -which he had arrived. A correct and refined taste enabled him to sec and appreciate whatever "was sublime, and beautiful in art or nature ; and his memory retained with fidelity that rich variety of facts and sentiments which his reading and observation had committed to its charge. Such, my hearers, were some of the principal traits which dis- tinguished the character of our lamented companion and friend. With liis immediate relations I had not the happiness of being acquainted ; but from all I can learn, he was a dutiful and grateful son, a khid brother, and a faithful and affectionate husband to the now widowed partner of his bosom. I have thus briefly and imperfectly touched upon the cha- racter of the lamented Underwood. It only remains to say of the much-loved companion of his untimely fate, that many of the traits which Under- wood possessed, belonged to Henry, with a due reference between them in age and experience in the service. The loved and lost Henry — the cherished object of affection of his widowed mother — was deservedly dear to us all. He was a youtii, manly beyond his years. He possessed in an eminent degree, tliat propriety and dignity of demeanor which commanded the respect of all his inferiors, and won and retained tlie esteem and confidence of his superiors and asso- ciates. He was distinguished for zeal and devotedness to the or renounce service, disinterestedness, fortitude and courage — a varied combination of excellencies — which rendered him an honor to his profession, and aftbrded high hopes of future distinction. His memory is precious, and will not be forgotten ; and to you, the junior officers of the squadron, so lately his youthful com- panions and compeers, I would say, embalm his excellencies of character by imitating them in your lives ; and if you have not chosen a better maxim for your guidance througli life, take this from one who loves you all — " Dare always to do right, and only dread to sin against God." On the 11th of August, at an early hour, we bade adieu to the Fejee Islands, and stood for Honolulu. CHAPTER XIV. FEJEE GROUP. The Fejee Group is composed of one hundred and fifty -five islands, of wliicli number one hundred are uninhabitable, on account of their sterility and want of water ; the remaining number possess an excellent soil, and abound in mountain streams — for the islands are of a mountainous character, some of the peaks having an altitude of nearly five thousand feet. The valleys are beautiful, and in some places well cul- tivated. Yams and dry taro are the principal crops ; sugar- cane grows spontaneously and of an excellent quality. The natives do not make sugar, but manufacture large quantities of molasses, and they use the leaf of the plant to cover the roofs of their houses. The principal t IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) r/- 1.0 I.I 11.25 I^IM 12.5 V vS o3> Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 873-4503 \ V V/* ©•^ ? #/^ 1 5 ^ 178 FKJKE GUOUP. fond of painting their noses and cheeks with vermilion. After marriage the curls are cut off, and the hair is kei)t sliurt and frizzled. Polygamy, in its greatest extent, is practised — :-'— one above, one bcdow. and one on either side of the hiisliand. The leasotis ass;c;iiel for this (tie, that the spirit of the chief may not be lonely in its jiassngr to tlin invi»-iMe wot Id, and that by snch an ofri'riiig, its hripplne^s Day be at once fectited. Misiiiiitiinj LHltiprisfi iti the Sou!h Sea hhi.nls. ,ith veniiiliou. lir is kept short 1 — .-^oine of the Tiie wonmn, looked upon as D(l to yield im- efs are usually land dies before is place. The -arm after they ever, marriafies looked upon a^! I whale's tooth. }y the husband, b^ejce wives are ind, his favorite ;oninion grave.* ill, one or more as a sacrifice to s afilicted with a i may escape all in twenty to a Inindiv.l ,al chief, the hotly i< coiicoiirso of siK'cta- vcs luis 1)0011 escrci.o.i r the hotly of her huf- en jiowerfiil men pull Jy is th.-n hii.l hy that elf in the Fame \'\ncc rill hecome volMiil;ny 1 ill II eonmion giii\''— rlip leasoiis assiijnel paten^o to the invidMe •e seenre.l. I Ihr .Voit.'/i Sea hlwiih. FLJEE GROUP. 179 further misery. The little finger is also often cut off on the death of a great chief. Tlie usual symbol of mourning for men is short hair or beard — thev seldom cut both. The women burn tliemselves to blisters on the neck and breast ; this is done by holding a piece of ignited tapa over the part to be burned. Funerals among the higher classes arc invariably followed by feasts and ava-drinking. The government is decidedly despotic. The will of the chief is the law, and instant death would be dealt out to any one found opposing it. The connnon people are looked upon as slaves, and may be sold and destroyed by their masters without remonstrance or appeal. The victims offered as sacri- fices to the gods are generally selected from this class. They are also slaughtered in great numbers when a great chief dies, in respect to him. Their religious creed* is in substance as follows : — That there is one Great Spirit who sees and knows all things, and who has the power of dispensing good and evil to mankind, according to their merits ; that there are many other spirits besides who have the same power, but not in so great a degree ; that dogs, cats, guns, stones, trees, canoes, rivers — in fact, everything — has a soul as well as man ; that certain persons are inspired ; that there are no future rewards and punishments, but that punishment for crime will be received in this world only, and the future is one of perfect and eternal happiness. They also firmly believe that omens are indica- tions from the gods themselves to man, and spells and charms are effective means of getting the gods to accord to the wishes of the maledictor. The priests are called " Ambatis," and exercise great influence over the lower classes. They are • Tliere aio mi^-ionarics rtsltlinp nl Ilowa tunl Somu Tomou, hnt ns yet they have made uo ctjnveitB. I* illy anions of the chiefs! d e present at all the feasts and ava-drinking. One of the principal duties of a priest is to perforin the marriage ceremony. Their account of the origin of the races is this : — All man- kind, say the}", sprung from one father and mother. The Fejee Avas first born, but acted -svickedly, and was black ; the Tonga was next born — he acted better than the Fejee — was whiter, and had some clothes given him ; white man came last — he behaved well — was liked by the Great Spirit, wlio made him white like himself, and gave hhn clothes and every- thing he could desire. During our stay at Ovalaou, T witnessed the performance of two dances. On both occasions the men and women danced together. They kept time to a monotonous chant, in which they all occasionally joined ; their motions were stiff and in- elegant. Both boys and girls are instructed in the dance by masters and mistresses. Their knowledge of medicine is limited to a few plants and the bark of two or three kinds of trees. In surgery they arc more skillful. The most common surgical operation among them is that of blood-letting, and is performed by making a small incision with a shell or a knife in various parts of the body for the relief of pain, inflamed tumors, &c., &c. By the same means they open abscesses and ulcers. They also cut off their toes to cure sores in the legs, elephantiasis, and leprosy. In cases of hard tumors, they apply hot bread-fruit, so as to produce a blister, and ultimately a purelent surface. In cases of sprains they rub the part afflicted with the dvy hand, or with a mixture of oil and water. Of gun-shot wounds they lay the vround open that they may be able to extract the ball, should it still remain. Midwifery is a distinct profession, exercised bv females onlv, and thev are said to be very skillful. M FEJEE GROUP. 181 resent at all the [)al duties of a his : — All man- mother. The was black ; the ;he Fejee — was hite man came reat Spirit, \\]\o >thes and every- performancc of . women danced chant, in which re stiff and in- in the dance by few plants and urgery they arc peration among d by making a us parts of the &c., &c. By ?rs. Tiiey also 'phantiasis, and liot bread-fruit, irelent surface, d with the div • un-shot wounds ii to exti'act the inct profession, be very skillful. Their arms consist of clubs, spears, bows and arrows. Tliere are two kinds of clubs — one kind about four feet lonii, and five or s.x inches in circumference ; the other about eighteen inches long, and fashioned like a drum-stick. The latter sort are intended for throwing, and are said to be a very formidable weapon. Every man is furnished with two of these when he goes into battle ; some of them are beautifully carved. Their manufactures are mats, tapa, baskets, kc. This is exclusively the work of women. The tapa is made, as at the other islands, from the Chinese mulberry, and by a similar process. They make some that is very neatly and tastefully printed. On several of the islands they also manufacture lai'gc quantities of pottery; they make it into pots, jugs and lamps, and it appears to be of as good quality as that which is manufac- tured for common use at home. The men have the reputation of being the best native mechanics in the South Seas. Their canoes are constructed with much judgment and ingenuity ; I saw some that were upwards of one hundred feet in length, and prop )rtionally wide. The double-canoes are capable of carry- ing from one hundred to two hundred men each. As they are unacquainted with the use of money, they barter commodities chiefly for muskets, powder, whales' teeth, cotton cloths, hatchets, knives, scissors, razors, glass bottles, and red paint. Among themselves, mats and tapa-cloth form the principal currency and personal property. They wquy the whales' teeth around their necks as ornaments, which are highly prized. I The foreign trade with these islands is much more limited than it was some twentv vears ago. Saiuhil-wood is now exhausted, or oidy found in small quantities ; tortoise-shell is { 80 scarce as to be of small account, and these, with the snialk-r A 182 FEJEE GROUP. articles, such as clubs, spears, mats, and shells, are mostlv picked up by the white residents on speculation and sent to Sydney, New South Wales, from whence they are forwarded to England, and sold as native curiosities. The merchant- traders, therefore, are confined chiefly to the article of bech- dc-niar, which is still found in considerable quantities, and is in great demand in the China market. The general character of the Fejee Islanders may be gathered from the preceding remarks. The dark side of the picture presents them as unprincipled, cruel, rapacious, defi- cient in courage as w ell as in human feelings, and indifferent to the commission of crime. This melancholy catalogue of vices arises from the disadvantages in point of religion, of govern- ment, and the general structure of society, under which they live. There is no doubt that under a better form of govern- ment they would become quite a different people. The resident missionaries represent them as being, in point of natural abilities, superior to any of the other Polynesians. V "i. SANDWICH ISLANDS. 183 hells, are mosth CHAPTER XV. SANDWICH ISLANDS. September 30th. About noon this day, we made the Island of Oahco ; and by 5 P. M., came-to in the roads off of the town of Honolulu. Soon after, we communicated with the shore, and had the satisfaction of receiving letters from our friends at home. The appearance of Oahoo, when viewed from the roads, is by 'no means inviting. The plain on which the town stands is almost treeless, while the mountains to the eastward are a mass of naked rock. These mountains are composed of basalt and tufa ; and, doubtless, what is termed by the foreign residents the " Devil's Punch Bowl," was once a volcanic crater, vomit- ing forth the strong entrails of the nether world. Early in the following morning, we hove-up the anchor, and towed the ship to a berth in the harbor, where we found about a dozen other vessels, mostly American, and engaged in the whale-fishery. The channel is narrow and tortuous, but the harbor is perfectly secure and convenient. Vessels of four to five hundred tons can lay along-side any of the wharves, and discharge or receive their cargoes. It is defended by a fort mounting some twenty guns. At 10 A. M., our Consul, P. A. Brinsmade, Esq., visited ' These islands were discovereil by the celebrated Captain (?ook, m ho named Ihcm after Lord Sandwich, the then Lord of the Admiralty. There are nine in number, and bear the following native names -.—Hawaii, Oahoo, Maui, Kauai, Molokai, Lanai, Hamakua, Kakonlawe, and Niihau. the ship, and in the course of the afternoon; many of the foreign residents ; and among others the English and French Consuls. October '2(\. To-day I visited the town. It is regularly laid out in streets, and contains many houses built in the European style. It also contains several churches and two hotels. The natives' houses are well adapted to the climate, and are pleasant, convenient resiarkU'd with a degree of brilliancy that almost blinded the behold I'r. This mighty scene recalled the follow- ing effusion to which Moore was excited on a similar occasion : " No, never shall I lose the trace Of what I've felt in this bright place ; And should my spirit's hope grow weak, Should I, God ! c"er douht thy power, Tliis mighty scene again Til seek, At this same calm and glooming hour. And here at the subliniest shrine . That nature ever reared to thee. Re-kindle all that hope divine And feel my immortality !" At sunset the natives* assembled on the forecastle, and at our request gave us a specimen of their wrestling. Forming a ring, one of them stepped in the centre with his arms ex- tended ; he was immediately approached by another from the opposite side, not in the usual step, but by crossing the legs alternately ; he then brought both feet together, and com- menced makinii a variety of motions with his hands. After this, which lasted about five minutes, each seized the other by the wrist and neck, and by a variety of movements made by the arms and feet, continued to struggle until one of the parties was thrown. During the night, many meteors were observed. It is impossible for language to paint the glories of the firmament in clear moonhgbt nights among these islands. They surpass ^ny I have ever witnessed in other parts of the globe. ♦ While at Oahoo, numbers of these people were shiiipeil on board the dillerciit vessels of tlie sq^la^l^^.ll fcr the I'lirposo of om|ili)yinjf them in the boats. ' I ilM the summits Deceml'L-r Otli. At o.CO P. M., wc rcacli. 1 i''0 harbor of Waiakea, or l^yroifs J^ay, and anchored in tl r o and a half fatlioms of water. The entrance into this bay is so easy that a pilot is altogether unnecessary, for you have onl; to keep the western shore aboard until the reef, which makes off the mouth of the bay, is passed, and then haul up for Cucoa-nut Island, off which is the best holdin;,'-ground. We had no sooner let-go the anchor, than the king's agent came on board to welcome us to the island, and to make Cap- tain Wilkes a present of some mullet, which had just been caught in the king's fish-pond.* Me was neatly and respect- ably dressed in the European style, and from having been brought up in JMr. Bhigham's family spoke our language per- ,fectly well. * The Ha«aiians take great pains to have fine fish. They take them from the sea when very smaU, and ptit tlicm into jion.ls of salt water, whoro tliey remain several months ; thence they are carried into brackish water, and finally are introduced into ponds of fresh water, where they arc carefully attcndeu. I fii i I 192 SANDWICH ISLANDS. CHAPTER XVI. HAWAII. The aspect of this part of the island of Hawaii is one of surpassing beauty. The country gradually declines from the base of the mountain Mouna Loa, some thirty miles inland, to the coast, where it boldly and precipitately terminates. The soil appears to be of the best quality, not overgrown with forests and thickets, as is generally the case with those islands we have heretofore visited, but extending out in a kind of meadow-patches, enlivened by numerous streams, and beauti- fully diversified with clusters of bread-fruit trees, so as to give the whole a picturesque and at the same time an easy culti- vated prospect. In entering the bay, the neatly-thatched huts cf the natives, situated among groups of venerable bread-fruit and other trees, become more numerous, and on arriving at the anchorage the scene is perfect ; for here, in addition to the beauties nature hos so bountifully bestowed on the surrounding country, the taste and art of advancing civilization can be seen. The missionary families established here have built them- selves houses in the European style. There are also one or two stores, a neat chapel, and a mill or two for grinding cane, owned by a China man. December 10th. This morning we sent the scientific in- struments to the Observatory. This building is situated on the south-eastern side of thu bay ; it is thirty feet long, by fifteen wide, and was, I am informed, erected expressly for fi M ^^ our use by an order from the kino;. There 'svere numbers of persons still employed in leveling off the ground around it, and in flatting down the grass with which it is covered. Dec. 11th and 12th. These two daj^s have been spent in making preparations for the excursion to the top of JVIauna Loa. On the 14th, Captain Wilkes and party left for Manna Loa. The expedition set out from the Observatory, and, be- sides Captain W., consisted of Messrs. Budd, Eld, Pickering, Judd, Brinsmade, Brackenbridge, and Elliott, Scrg. Stearns, twelve of the crew, and one hundred and fifty natives, or kana- kas. It was Captain Wilkes's intention to have started at a much earlier hour, but in this he was disappointed by a cir- cumstance which could not be foreseen. No sooner was the ^ order to march given than thirty of the natives laid down their loads and declared they were sick, and could not go the excursion. Others were engaged to take their place, but not without much persuasion and great additional expense. They positively refused to go unless they received double the pay wdiich had been offered those whom they were to relieve — that is, eight dollars. The party will spend one night in the vicinity of Kilauei, which will be on their way. On reaching the summit of Mauna Loa, they will immediately go on erecting the tents. This done, the natives are to be discharged, with orders to re- turn again when their services are needed. As soon as the instruments are up, Captain Wilkes and Messrs. Budd and Eld will proceed with the observations, and continue them until a sufficient number are obtained to form the data from which the proper results are to be obtained. Such are the objects of this enterprise, and we do most sincerely wish it all the success imaginable. No observations, we believe, have as yet been made by any one at so great an altitude with instru- r - =^-r --i;:-^ I.. i !' lit' I' I 194 SANDWICH ISLANDS. ments like those Avith ^vhicli the party are provided ; and as all of them would be highly interesting and useful, it would give us particular pleasure to have the honor of making them secured to our own country. There are some, however, who are of the opinion that the whole affair will fall through, from the fact of the natives not being able to stand cold, which is said, after an elevation of ten or twelve thousand feet, to be intense. December loth. To-day I visited the shore, in company with a brother officer. We landed on the western side of the bay. A clump of cocoa-nut trees was standing within a few. yards of the vrater's edge. Passing this we came to t\Y0 avenues, of about half a mile in length, lined on either side with cane-pla:^tations, taro-patches, and interspersed wltli trees loaded with flowers of the most gay and beautiful colors. One of the avenues, we vrere told, was entirely the work of those females who had violated the seventh commandment, and, like that at Tahiti, was distinguished by the name of " Broom-rood." After making a short call on one of the missionary gentlemen, who resides in a very neat and com- fortable house situated at the termination of the road just mentioned, we repaired to Mr. Pittman's. This gentleman is a native of Boston, and the principal merchant in Hilo. While we were sitting in his store, several natives came in, and made a number of purchases, which, we remarked, consisted chiefly of cotton-stuffs. We next set out to visit a brother- officer and messmate, who had taken up his residence on shore on account of ill-health. Pursuing a path which lay through fields overgrown with bushes, we soon arrived at the banks of W^aikea. This river rises among the mountains in the in- terior, and previous to the introduction of Christianity was regarded b} the natives as an object of great veneration. i .J JJ SANDWICH ISLANDS. 195 ovided ; and as iseful, it would f making them minion that the the natives not m elevation of •e, in company 3rn side of the ig within a few. came to two on either side Tspcrsed wltli ?ftutiful colors. f the work of ommandment, the name of •n one of the eat and com- tlie road just - gentleman is | Hilo. While came in, and ced, consisted it a brother- snce on shore ''^ lay through i it the banks : ins in the in- istianitv was veneration. —zs^-M ■■6 4 J; % The remains of many of the temples that were dedicated to its god are still to be seen on its banks. The bed over which it flows is composed of black volcanic rock, and in some places is full of fissures and chasms. A little to the right of the spot where we struck it, there are two very beautiful cascades. The Waikea was also distinguished in olden times for the great number of fairs that were held on its banks. We had scarcely crossed this beautiful stream when we reached the house which our friend occupied. It is the property of Mr. Pittmau's son, and, besides being shaded by magnificent trees, it commands a noble view of the harbor. After spending a few hours with our friend, we set out to return on board. Many native houses were scattered along our path, some of which we entered. They were not so large nor so cleanly as those we had seen at Oahoo. We reached the ship just as the eight o^clock gun was fired. December ITth. During these twenty-four hours the air has been uncommonly keen, on account of the wind blowing from the westward. This v»ind blows down the mountains, and is more dreaded by the natives than any other. Both day and night, during its continuance, they keep large fires burning in their houses, and gather round them as closely as they can. It is, in fact, to them, what the northeast wind is to us in the winter season. December 18th. Several letters have been received to-day from the Mouna Loa party, and among others, one from Cap- tain Wilkes, addressed to the first Lieutenant, in which, he directs that fifty of the crew should be sent to him. One of the letters stated that about thirty of the natives had given out. The swell is running very heavy. We have stood it out, how- ever, thus far, with only one anchor and eiglity fathoms Cf ble. December 19th. At early dawn, Lieut. Alden and Mr. San- ford left here with the fifty men sent for by Captain W^ilkes. 196 SANDWICH ISLANDS. It Is justice due to those mon to stute, that not one of them waited to be ordered ; they came forward and volunteered their services the moment th.^ learned they were needed. During the night the reflection from tlie Volcano Kilauea, was uncommonly vivid, insomuch that Ave concluded some new eruption had taken place. December 21st. In the afternoon we hauled the seine, and in two hauls captured fish, enough to supply every mess in the ship for several days to come. Both hauls were made near the beach, and the last one in the presence of a great number of the Kanakas, and it was amu?;ing to see the astonishment which they expressed. They have seines of their ov/n, but they are of such misera- ble construction as to be of very little use. There are many varieties of fish found in the bays of Hawaii ; but the mullet is considered superior to all others in point of flavor. December 22d. More letters have been received from the Mauna Loa party, and they all state, that the natives are giving out hourly ; one cause of coraplahit is, that the loads which they are required to carry, are too heavy, which, no doubt, is too true ; we should think that fifty pounds was altogether too much for any one man to carry, especially on so long a journey, and one beset with so many natural difficul- ties. It would have been better, we believe, to have had the loads lighter, and employed more people. December 23d. To-day the Headman of Hilo, and family, and the King's agent and his lady, dined in the ward-room. The former is a large man vrith European features and of dig- nified manners. He also bears the reputation of being a man of great energy of character. The females were neatly dressed after the Europejin fashion, and, considering their oppor- tunities, conducted themselves remarkably well. i i;i:i.ii >ot one of them K.l volunteered ! were needed, j Icano Kilauea, included some '■' the seine, and 'ry mess in the 3re made near L great number ) astonishment f such misera- lere are many 3ut the mullet avor. ived from the he natives are hat the loads vy, which, no y pounds was especially on atural difficul- have had the 0, and family, e ward-room. cs and of dig- !" being a man neatly dressed their oppor- i| ;l '•' I';! 'Jl''' 'It. ii 'K In the evening, Mr. Williamson, gunner, reported that he saw on shore, Mr. Sanford and a man named McDonald, who was so lame as scarce to be able to walk. December 24th. This morning Mr. Sanford and McDonald came on board. Mr. Sanford stated that ho was obliged to return on account of his suffering from the astlima, after leav- ing the volcano. In the evening Mr. Elliott arrived with orders to the first Lieutenant, from Captain Wilkes, to keep up a constant coi munication between the ship and the moun- tain. Mr. Elliott reports that he left the party about fifteen miles, or two days' walk, from the top of the mountain ; that the ascent thus far had been difficult and painful, and that one of the crew named Longly (an excellent man) was found missing. He also tells us that thev had suffered a great deal from cohl, and want of provisions and water ; the latter article being so scarce, that upwards of two dollars had been paid for a gallon of it. In the course of the afternoon, two white men came on board to say to the Purser, that they had been dispatched by Captain Wilkes to tell him to send two hundred natives up the mountain with wood. These men report that Captain Wilkes, and about half a dozen others had reached the summit. December 26th. At an early hour, one hundred and thirty natives left town with wood and water, for the use of the party on Mauna Loa. The Headman cf Hilo went with them, and will hereafter stay at what is termed the half-way house, and superintend the natives, who are to be constantly kept carrying wood and water up to Mr. Alden's tent. December 27th. We are gratified to learn that Longly has been found. The poor fellow was laying under a rock speechless, and already in a state of delirium preceding a final dissolution ; but he is now doing well. .*>' 200 VISIT TO THE GRKAT VOLCANO. CHAPTER XVII. VISIT TO THE GREAT VOLCANO ARRIVAL AT MAUI — ^DK- SCRIPTION OF LAHAINA VISIT FROM THE KING. On the morning of the 24tli of January, Messrs. IVI , H , and myself, applied for permission to visit Mount Kilauea. As the permission was granted, we set about fnakin;^ the necessary arrangements for the tour. We directed our steward to put up provisions for six days, and in the aftenioou went on shore, and engaged horses from the Headman i/f Hilo to take us up to the crater. We also engaged a wiiite man, named Smith, to act as guide to the party, and several natives, Avho were to carry our baggage. We told Smith we should be ready to set out the next day, and should expect him and the natives to meet us at an ep.vlv hour at the Observatory, that being the starting-point. Ac- cordingly, the following morning, we repaired to the Observa- tory, where we found Smith and the natives ; and by six o'clock, all preparations being made, we took our departure. Pursuing a westerly course, we soon came to the River Wikuca. which we crossed near the Headman's house. In a few minutes after, we reached the road which leads to the volcano, We had only traveled a short distance on this road, when ue entered a track of country which was entirely covered wtli fern, and but thinly inhabited. It was here that I took the resolution to return my horse tc the Headman :md take to ;;'■'!. 1 NO. , AT MAUI— DF- THE KING. , Messrs. IM . n to visit Mount 3 set about fnakiii;: We directed ouv d in the afternoon Headman wf Hilo ir before. About 4 o'clock we reached the house where Captain Wilkes and jiarty spent their second night while on their way to the sum- mit of Mouna Loa. It is a largo native building, standing a few hundred yards from tlie road, with some cultivated Jand around it. We now came to a region of country entirely composed of lava and producing no other vegetation than what grew in the crevices. TMs lava was of a dark Irown color and verv hard, and with a surface i allied like that of the sea at tlie first springing up of a breeze. It was a highly interest- ing scene both for the geologist and mineralogist. After a walk of betv.-een three and four miles over tliis volcanic re- gion, we passed on our left a cluster of cottages, surrounded apparently by a rich soil, and shortly after reached what is called the " half-way house," where we proposed to spend the night. Upon entering, the inmates innnediately retired to one of the out-houses, thus giving us possession of thd en- tire building. It appeared to be newly erected and bet*:er con- structed than any building w^e had seen on the way. In the centre of the floor was a cheerful fire, the sight of which we hailed with joy, for we were both wet and cold. Around its gladsome blaze we seated ourselves, enjoyed its genial warmth, dried our clotliing, and then proceeded to par- take our repast. When the repast was over we once morp , I 1 ' : gathered around tlie fire, and, after comfortably warming our- Belves, retired for the night. January ^iltli. At 8 o'clock we resumed our journey. [• was a brif^ht sunny morninfr, and the neii^hboring wood« wen enlivened with son;j;sters of various colors and species. Few birds are to be seen alonj^ the shore, but in the interior of the island they are numerous, and the notes of three or four kin(I> are (>xceedinn;ly sweet. Between 11 and 12 wc reached the two shanties situatnl about eight miles from the volcano. Here we halted for tlio baggage men to come up. Scarcely had we got seated wiicn a girl about sixteen years of age, entered, and took a seat hy us. Upon inquiry she informed us that she belonged to tlie opposite side of the island and was going to vis'it some of Iht friends who were residing near Hilo. She was evidently one of the lower class, yet her manners were pleasing and even gracci'ul. Perceiving she was without provisions, we offered her some of our own, but she declined the offer, and shortly after rose up and proceeded on her journe}'. The scantiness of vegetation, the presence of disrupted volcanic masses, and the appearance of columns of steam is- suing from the rents intersecting the ground over which we were passsing, convinced us that we must be near the crater Kilauea. At length, about 4 o'clock, we came in sight of the mo- narch of all volcanoes — but the light of day, robbed it of much of its splendor ; still the eye of man never beheld a more sublime and terrific scene. Before us was a cavity between six and seven miles in circumference and upwards of a thou- sand feet in depth ; within this were to be seen lakes of varied size and form, filled with burning matter, and emitting columns of flame and vapor. NO. VISIT TO Tin: GKKAT VOLCANO. 208 ibly warming our. our journey. It lorinf^ woofls were nd species. Few I ;hc interior of tlu' lireeor four kiiuls shanties situatcil we halted for tlio got seated when nd took a seat hv ) belonged to tlie visit some of iior vas evidently one leasing and even isions, we offereil (ffer, and shortly ice of disrupted mns of steam is- d over which ve e near the crater sight of the mo- obbed it of much ' beheld a more a cavity between vards of a thou- ;n lakes of varied emitting columns It i-s remarkable that tiii.s crater should present an external aspect so entirely dissimilar to tiuit of J^tna and Vesuvius, or aiiv of the volcanoes of South America. Thoso are characte- rized by an elevated cone, out of which are ejected igneous rocks and aslies. Kilama, on the contrary, is an innnense depression in the midst of a vast plain with nothing to warn you of a near approach but the oigns which I have before lUKen f. SI. We now directed our course toward the cluster of shanties erected on the brim of the crater by Captain Wilkes's party, which we soon reached, and foun.l one occupied by Dr. Pick- ering, who came round by the sea-shore. The remaining shanties were in the possession of about fifty natives, who had pome from a town near the coast to take a^vay a large canoe which they had made in the neighboring wood, some time pre- vious. After supper we proceeded in company witl.\ Dr. Pickering to a place about half a mile to the east'A'ard of the shanties to obtain a view of a small crater which was represented to be unusually active. We could not possibly have selected a more eligible position. We stood on a pile of rocks which commanded a bird's-eye view of the fiery lake. It was several thousand feet in circumference, and nearly round in form. The color of its burning contents was that of a cherry- red or deep crimson, and it was in a state of terrific ebullition. Sometimes the fiery fluid was ejected many feet into the air, at other times it was seen to overflow the edges on the circumja- cent lava, for many yards distant. We continued to gaze upon the scene about an hour, and then returned to our lodgings, where we soon had opporturnity of observing another phenome- non of a character not less grand and splendid. We were re- clining on our mats, with our eyes directed towards the largest :::=_> tf" 204 SANDWICH ISLANDS. I, of the lakes, ^Yllell a portion of tlie bank forming one of its sides, -was seen to give way and fall into the liquid lava beneatii ^vitli a frightful crash. The whole surface was in the most vii- lent agitation ; billows were formed as high apparently as anv we had ever seen on the ocean, and dashed against the side o! the crater with such violence as to throw the fiery spray sixty or seventy feet high. The sight of this spectacle alone wouM have repaid us for the trouble of coming thus fiir. When tlio surface of the fiery stream became quiescent again, we wrappcl ourselves in our blankets and sought repose. When breakfast was over, we proceeded to visit the bottom of the crater. After a brief walk in the direction of the Sul- phur Springs, we turned to the left, and suddenly coramenceil descending by a steep and rugged path ; columns of vapors smelling strongly of sulphur were issuing from crevices an! pits lining either side of the road. We estimated some of the latter to be upwards of two hundred feet in depth. After a descent of about one quarter of a mile, we passed on our right a crater which bore unmistakable signs of having lonf; since become extinct ; it was everywhere covered with shruK bery, and trees of considerable dimensions. Another walk of about fifteen minutes brought us to what is called the " Ledge." It was not until then that we formed an adequate idea of the magnitude and sublimity of this wonderful crater. On which- soever side we cast our eyes, we beheld a wall of solid lava of a thousand feet, or more, in altitude, and from six to seven miles in circumference. This ledge surrounds the crater; thus forming a kind of natural gallery several hundred yards in width. The surface is but little broken, and presents a uniform appearance, being of a dark brown or iron color. At length we reached the bottom. The path leading to this was also very abrupt and dangerous j we were in danger 111 forming one of its liquid lava beneath .'as in the most vio- apparentl y as any igainst til ' side of 3 fiery spray sixty 'ctacle aloiie ■wouM is far. When the again, we wrappc'l » to visit the bottom rection of the Su- ddenly commenced columns of vapor> from crevices aiKi stimated some of ; in depth. After we passed on our ns of having lont: )vered with shriil)- Another walk of lied the " Ledge." quate idea of the rater. On wliich- wall of solid lava from six to seven unds the crater; ral hundred yards 1, and presents a or iron color. ( path leading to re were in danger every moment of being killed by the falling of fragments of rocks, or of being precipitated down the fathomless pits. The descent did not exceed four hundred yards, but we were up- wards of twenty minutes in accomplishing it. Dr. Pickering and myself remained at the bottom of the crater upwards of an hour. It varies in its character much ; in some places the surface is so hot as to be painful to the feet, and the gurgling sound of the liquid lava beneath warned us that we were treading on dangerous ground ; in others it was broken and twisted into every imaginable shape ; in others it was thrown up in the wildest confusion, resulting, no doubt, from the sudden cooling and contracting of the lava ; in another place there were lakes of fire and smoke, and in others again it presented a smooth glassy-like surface, and so iragile as to frequently break through, and precipitate us several feet before we gained a sure footing. I received several falls, and bruised my hands and knees dreadfully. We approached within a few yards of the largest of the lakes. It is situated to the northeast, and ranges in a direction nearly east and west, and we estimated its circumference at up- wards of three-quarters of a mile, it being oval in shape ; at the east end the lava flowed in gentle waves — at the west it was iii a much higher state of action — it was there boiling and thrown up into the air to the height of hundreds of feet, and then de- scending again in showers of spray. The heat was so intonse as to burn our hands and faces many yards distant, and the glare so strong as to be painful to the eyes. Tliick black columns of smoke rose from the centre. The wind roared like thunder, as it rushed by us to fill the vacuum produced by the intense heat, while at intervals the hnnk on which we stood, cracked and shook in the most frightful manner. The idea of falling into some of these fissures was by no UTHfer: Il I means agr( lieved when we turned our eyes from the scene to retrace our steps. On our regaining the ledge, we fell in with Mr. H., wlio had gone to collect some specimens of what is called Pelc-,< hair. He succeeded, and beautiful specimens they were. There seems to be some doubt as to the manner this is pro- duced. My opinion is, that it is formed simply by the sweep- ing of the wind ovor the surface of the lava while in a liquid state. It is to be found all over the ledge, and on the bushes growing around the brim of the crater ; it very much resembles tufts of fine flax. On the leeward side of the crater, Mr. H. found it so abundant that the ground in places appeared as if covered with cobwebs. Pele, according to the mythology of the natives, is the goddess of K'.lauea, and it is believed that many of them still worship her in secret. It is said that they never approached it previous to the introduction of Christianity, without the greatest fear and veneration, and then only to deliver their offering by casting it into the burning lake. When about half way back we met Mr. Lyman, one of the resident missionaries, and Mr. Elliott, our chaplain. At 3 P. M. we reached our lodgings, and, as might be expected, were hungry, thirsty, and very much fatigued. After dinner I accompanied Mr. H. to the Sulphur Banks to procure some specimens, but in this we were disappointed, as we saw none that were worth the trouble of preserving. There were some forming, however, which promised to be very fine. The edges of several of the crevices from which the gases issued that produced the sulphur, were lining with crystals of the most beautiful shape and brilliancy. We estimated the length of these banks to be two hundred yards, and their height from bit very much re- ) scene to retrace with Mr. H., ^vllo at is called Pelc's imens they Avere. lanner this is pro. iply by the sweep- while in a iiquitl md on the bushes ry much resembles le crater, Mr. H. !es appeared as if e natives, is the nany of them still never approached nity, without the i to deUver then- iyman, one of the chaplain. At 3 ight be expected, d. After dinner 5 to procure some , as we saw none There were some fine. The edges ;ases issued that itals of the most ;ed the length of heir height from ten to thirty feet. Many caverns and chasms were observable in their vicinity. The ensuing night harmonized well with the glorious scenes witnessed during the day : — ♦♦ As when the moon, refulgent lump of night, O'er heaven's clear azure spreads her sacred light, When not a breath disturbs the deep serene. And not a cloud o'ercasts the solemn scene : Around her throne the vivid planets roll, And stars unnumber'd gild the glowing pole ; O'er the dark trees a yellower verdure shed. And tip with silver every mountain's head.*' January 28tli. At an early hour I bade adieu to Kilauea, ;ind set out to return to Hilo, taknig the route by which Dr. Pickerino; had ascended. After a walk of about five miles 1 overtook the party of Kanakas whom we found at the vol- cano on the evening of our arrival. They were compelled to bear the canoe on their shoulders, as the road was too steep and ruijored to allow the use of rollers. At 11 o'clock I came in sight of Mount Popii, and by noon reached the summit, from which I had a view of the crater on the western side. It appears very ancient, as everywhere it is covered with trees and shrubbery. It resembles a funnel in shape, and I estimated its depth to be four hundred feet. Leaving Mount Popii, I turned off to a path diverging to the left, which soon brought me to another crater. The bottom of this was overflowed with fresh lava ; but it did not materially differ from the one a,bove mentioned. This lava had doubtless run in during the recent eruption, and worked its way from the crater Kilauea by some subterranean passage; its color was nearly that of clay, and the surface appeared highly glazed — tlie aperture through which it run in may still 208 SANDWICH ISLANDS. be seen. It bore from where I was standing about northwest, is several feet in circumference, about fifty yards from the top of the crater, and one hundred yards from the bottom. Pursuing the same path I next came to the bed of lava, which owes its origin to the same eruption as that just alluded to ; this presented the most singular spectacle. Many of the trees with which the whole country was formerly covered are still standing, overlooking the scene of desolation. The lava was in that state which it generally assumes after it com- mences to cool. Throughout its whole length and breadth it was split and broken into pieces of various shapes and sizos ; gases were escaping from several of the rents which smelt strongly of sulphur, insomuch tliat I became aware of their existence an hour or two previous to my reaching them. It was fr'^>m these fissures that the liquid mass made its appearance. One of them is nearly three feet in width, another two feet, and a third eighteen inches. From the summit of Mount Popii a fine view of the stream may be obtained. It is about three miles long, and from three to five hundred yards wide. The appearance of the surface is uniform, being of a color nearly black, and full of glittering crystals. The average height above the adjacent ground is four feet. No one can see all this, and yet question the theory of the igneous fluidity of the centre of our globe. All combustible causes that we are aquainted with are totally inadequate to produce such an effect. It was my intention to have visited another crater, which I was told to be still larger tnan any I had seen, except that of Kilauea ; but having missed the path leading to it, and it being also near sunset, I deemed it best to endeavor to reach a house about two miles off, where Smith said I would find good lodgings, and which I succeeded in reaching about dusk. I Sniitli ^vas right; we liud excellent accoiimiodatioiis, aiul our sleep was sweet and refreshing. January 20th. The landscape was still glittering with the (lews of night when I resumed my journey. The morning is the proper time to travel here, as the air is then cool and (k'lieiuus. After a short walk I reached a village, containing between twenty and thirty houses. As I passed through, . many of the inhabitants came out of their dwellings to inquire where I was going, and from whence I came. The llawaiians are naturally a very cux'ious and inquisitive people. The land in the vicinity of this village appeared fertile, and was in a high state of cultivation. Among other productions, I observed the coffee-tree and sugar-cane. The average height of full-gro^Yn coifee trees is about nine feet ; they arrive a; their full growth in four or five years, and continue to bear from ten to fifteen years. The coffee-blossom is a beautiful and highly fragrant little white flower, and the berry, when fully ripe, is of a pale red color. I came next to a field of lava, which, like those I passed yesterday, had been torn and shattered, either by the expansive force of the air underneath at the time the lava was in a semi-fluid state, or by some vio- lent convulsion of nature. The traveling over it was exces- sively fatiguing, as the lava was both very rugged and brittle. Leaving this barren and solitary waste, I soon passed on my left several conical hills, which were once craters, but now are overgrown with bushes and other vegetation. At 3 o'clock I stopped at a shanty, erected by the side of the road, to prepare dinner, and to allow the natives, who car- ried the baggage and specimens, to come up. Having refreshed ourselves, we pursued our way. The path now lay through an open country, covered with light yellow soil producing nothing but grasses, and a few whortleberry bushes. 210 SANDWICH ISLANDS. Another two hours' walk brouglit us to a pool of rain water; here we filled up our water bags and calabashes. There are but few springs in this part of Hawaii, and no rivers — so that the inhabitants are obliged to have recourse to the method of catching rain-water in calabashes, wliieh they keep suspended in great numbers around the roofs of thAr habitations at all times. Nature is boundless in her resources, and the more we inquire and examine, the more we are lost in wonder and admiration at the great scheme for carrjdng on the designs of the Creator. Though some parts of these islands are left for six months together without rain, yet an ample provision has been made to counteract the iil-eftccts of so long a drouglit. Vegetation, which, with us, would speedily perish without an abundant supply of rain, is there sufficiently nourished by that moisture, which plants, as they bud and blossom and produce their fruit, have the power of hoarding up and retaining from one rainy season to another, and by the heavy dews that nightly fall upon their large expanded leaves. About sunset, we arrived at Waiiha, where I determined to spend the night. This is a pleasant village, situated within a few miles of the sea-shore. The inhabitants appeared to be in very comfortable circumstances ; their houses were large and well furnished, after the native manner. The dwelling in which I took lodgings, was the property of the principal magistrate of the place. He himself was absent, but his wife gave me a cordial welcome ; she received me with many ex- pressions of kindness, led me into the house, and immediately set about to prepare a repast. We had two dishes, which deserve notice, as I believe t'hey arc^ peculiar to the natives of these islands ; the names under Avhieh they arc best known, are Poi and Poi-dog — the former is made of boiled taro, pounded up and mixed with water into a paste; it is served up in calabashes, and conveyed to the mr>uth with the fingers, by all ranks and ages. People who live on the sea-coast, eat with it a small fish in a raw state, resembling the sardine. The Poi-dog is not one of our cbmmon curs, but a dainty animal, fed entirely on vegetable food, generally on taro made into a poi, and hence the name — (a Hawaiian would no more eat one of our kind of dogs than we would) — the animal is sometimes roasted before the fire just as we roast beef ; but more generally it is " lau-ude," that is, after the skin is taken off, the animal is wrapped up in leaves and put into a hole made in the earth, of several feet in circumference, and about two feet in depth ; when in, some more leaves are spread over the animal, hot stones are tnen placed on the leaves, and a covering of nLie or ten inches thick, formed of leaves and earth, is spread over the w^hole. In this state the animal remains about three-quarters of an hour, when the hole is opened and the animal taken out. The many eulogies passed on the dish by my kind hostess, and my curiosity in the matter, conquered my prejudices against the name, and really had I not known to the contrary, I should have thought I was par- taking of a piece of roast pig. January 81st. At an early hour I took leave of the kind family, with whom I passed the night. The Hawaiians are a hospitable people, and there are many of them who, if they had only one fowl or pig in the world, would cheerfully take it to furnish a repast for a friend or a stranger. After a brief walk I reached the sea- shore, which I found thickly sprinkled with cottages. At 10 o'clock I halted at a house which was deserted, to partake of some breakfast. This house, I was told by the guide, had been the residence of a chief, and was deserted during the recent eruption, when it was believed that it, like many others, would be destroyed by it ^nr'*S*»*,n.i'_V 212 SAND VICH ISLANDS the liquid lava. It was large and well built, and commanded a fine view of the ocean. When breakfast was over, I proceeded to visit the place where the stream of lava run into the sea during the eruption just alluded to, also the three hills, said to have been forniej at the same time. The direction of the stream was northeast, and is said to be between twenty and thirty miles in length, and from one to nine thousand yards in width. When first discovered it was supposed that a new crater had been formed ; but it is now ascertained that it worked its way from the old Volcano Kilauea. The depth of the stream, as seen down the rents, was from five to twenty feet. At first it flowed smoothly, and after remaining so for some ten days, broke up into its present rough and confused state. I estimated its breadth, where it run into the sea, to be two thousand feet. The lava, as far as the eye could reach, was of a jet-black color, aiid excessively brittle. I ascended two of the highest hills ; they stood within a few yards of the beach, and parallel to each other — were formed of sand, scoria, and ashes — and I found their height to be two hundred feet. It is not likely they will remain permanent, as the surf is continually beating against their sides and gradually washing them away. Near these hills were two sand-beaches, which owed their origin to the same eruption. Tlio sand was composed of a substance similar to that of the adjoining lava, and was probably formed by the igneous stream coming in contact with the sea. The lava suddenly cooling, flew into small pieces and particles, and was thrown back upon the land by the agitated waters. I now walked along tlie coast, sometimes keeping so near the edge as to be wet with the spray of the surge which broke violently against it. The houses thickened, and about 4 o'clock I reached a hamlet, consisting of some dozen or fifteen :':sh the eye. You behold nothing but a mass of lava that at one period has been ejected in a liquid state from the terminal crater. To appearance it is of different ages, some of very ancient date, though not j^et decomposed. In some places it is smooth, in others it appears in the form of clinkers, which occasionally are raised from five to thirty feet above the surface of the surrounding lava. There are several extinct craters in sight, one of which is ^wen larger than that of Kilauea." " December 25th. This is the most uncomfortable Christ- mas-day I have ever experienced. The only way we had of keeping warm was to wrap ourselves in pea-coats and blankets. We had not wood enough to cook our food, and I had to con- tent myself with some sea-biscuit and a piece of raw pork." " December 27th. The cold this day to our feelings was intense, although the thermometer did not stand lower than 26°. All our exertions in carrying stone for the wall which is to surround our tents, for the purpose of protecting them from the violent winds, and other exercises, such as running and jumping, could scarcely keep us from freezing. We also found it very diflBcult to breathe, on account of the rarified state of the air. On examination it was also found that our pulses ^^liiiiil! nt of the moun- feet above the 'in Mr. Ehl's f the mountain, >le during their perfect a scene intain presents, er kind of veo-e- but a mass of quid state from different age.<, ^composed. In in the form of ^'e to thirty feet tiere are several arger than that fortable Christ- way we had of s and blankets, d I had to con- )f raw pork." iir feelings was md lower than e wall which is ting them from s running and We also found irified state of bat our pubes varied, and were very easily excited — mine fluctuated from 80 to 120 beats." " December 28th. This has been a pleasant day for these regions. At sunrise the effect of horizontal refraction on the sun was very perceptible. It seemed ([uite small as it ap- peared above the sea, forming a long horizontal ellipse of two and a half diameters, first enlarging on one side and then another." " On the 31st the temperature at noon in the sun was 92°, in the shade at i>i)°, and after dusk it was as low as 13°. In the afternoon I had an attack of the Mountain Sickness. I was sick at the stomach, and had a severe pain in the head." " The night was favorable for observations, and we made many." On the morning of the 5th of February we got under- way, and shaped our course for Maui. The following day, at 2.45 P. M., the Island of Kaloolawe bore west north-west. This is a small, barren island, and used by the Hawaiian Government as a place of exile for con- victs, who depend on rain-water for drink, and glean a scanty subsistence from potatoes, which they manage to raise on one or two fertile patches. At 4 P. M. we descried the Island of Maui ; it appeared at a distance like two distinct islands. The coast was generally bold and steep, and intersected by numerous valleys, or ravines. Many of these are apparently formed by streams from the mountains which flow through them into the sea. The rocks along the coast were composed of very hard compact lava, or a kind of basalt' The habitations of the natives appeared in clusters at the openings of the valleys, or scattered over the sides of the hills. It is a beautiful island. About sunset we came-to off Lahaina, the principal town. 210 SANDWICH ISLANDS. February 8tli. Tliis forenoon we were honored with a visit from his Ilawiian majesty, Tamahameha III. As we had the chronometers on board we did not salute him, but paid him, however, every other mark of respect. Tamahameha III, or Kamme, as he is familiarly called, is a son of the celebrated Tamahameha I., and a brother of Liho-Liho, during whose reign idolatry .and the taboo system were abolished. He is probably twenty-seven years of age, of a middle height, and rather inclined to be corpulent. His complexion is dark olive, his hair of a jet black and straight, and his countenance mild and interesting. In disposition, he is frank, kind and generous. The people always speak of him as a good man. His manners are perfectly free and agreeable. He was edu- cated under the surveillance of the missionaries, and, besides reading and writing his own language, can speak English and Spanish intelligibly. About two years since, he married the daughter* of a chief of the second rank, but, as yet, he has no children. He is generally attended by a number of favor- ites who join in all his amusements and occupations. His dress on state occasions, consists of a blue coat with epaulettes, w^hite pantaloons and vest, a chapeau, and a sword. At other times, he generally ap; f^-^rs in a blue jacket and a blue cloth cap with a gold band around it. He is very fond of the sea, and has a schooner belonging to himself, in which he spends much of his time. He is also fond of all kinds of ath- letic exercises, is an excellent rider, and a good shot. He made us a long visit, and examined every part of the ship. He appears to entertain a high opinion of Americans, and I understand he frequently consults them upon matters of state. The Rev. Mr. Richards, who acts as his private secretary, • It is said he married her from love, after the chiefs refused to allow him to marry one of his Bisters— a practice which in former times was not considered improper. ,:i!r SANDWICH ISLANDS. 21: anfl ^vllO nccompaiiicfl him on the present occasion, is a native of New I'Ji^ujland. February l> til. To-day I visited tlic town. It is built near the sea-slioro, and the principal street is i^.bout a mile lon^j;. Near tlie Inndin^^-place is a fort in good repair and well adaptt^l for defence. Many of the houses hiive gardens attaehe(l to them, in which arc growing tarn, plantains, banana*?, cabbages, onions, and a great variety of other vegetables. The king's palace Is not yet finished, and he resides at pre- sent in a grass house built after the native style. The ma- terial employed in the construction of the new building is coral, brought from the neighboring reefs. The town contains several stores, a chapel, and a reading-room. It has con- siderable trade with whaling vessels. Tlie inhabitantfi are numerous, and as well-dressed and well- behaved as any we have seen in the group. The surrounding country is very romantic and beautiful. The whole valley in tlie rear of the town is a perfect garden. The liabitations of the natives are seen peeping through the leaves of the trees ; a fine stream takes its course from one end of the valley to the other — in some places flowing along gently and smoothly — at others, rushing down a fall of several feet, and dashing and breaking against the rocks that intercepts its progress ; while the sides of the hills which bound the valley tOAvards the interior, are covered with verdure. An excellent view may be obtained of this charming landscape from the summit of the hill on which the high-school is located. There, as you stand, nearly three hundred feet high, you behold in one view the whole scene in which there are beauties that words cannot describe. " But who can paint Like nature ? Can imagination boast Amidst its gay creation, hues like her's ? riii 218 SANDWICH ISLANDS. And lay thera on so delicately fine, And lose them in each other, as appears In every bud that blows ? If fancy then Unequal, fail beneath the pleasing task, Ah ! what shall language do ?" Want of time prevented ray visiting the High-school, but, I understand, it is not in a very flourishing condition. The missionary gentlemen connected with the institution are, it is said, unfitted for the management of its operations. From this school, of late years, have been taken all the native teach- ers, and most of the young men employed on the part of the government. On returning to the beach, I found it thronged with native children, who were amusing themselves in the surf. This seems to be a favorite sport, not only with chil- dren, but men and women, and it is a novel and a beautiful sight to see them coming in on the top of a wave moving with a velocity that would overtake the swiftest of our race- horses. Sometimes they will suddenly disappear, and thus remain until another roller comes along, and dashes them upon the beach. They will not engage in the sport unless the surf is running high. The surf-board which they use is made of some light wood, and is about six feet in length and twenty inches wide. It appeared to me to be a very dangerous amusement, especially for children ; but they seemed not to mind it. I continued to gaze on the scene until our sun -down boat shoved off to return to the ship. In the course of the afternoon Messrs. Budd and May left the ship to survey the shoal off the Island of Kaloo- lawe. March 10th. Several boats have been employed to-day in surveying and sounding the harbor, or, more properly, tlie Jars then isk. [igh-school, but, jondition. The tution are, it is •rations. From ;he native teacli- the part of the md it thronged tmselves in the only with chil- tnd a beautiful i wave movincy ist of our race- d thus remain \ es them upon 3rt unless the h they use is feet in length to be a very en; but they on the scene the ship, idd and May nd of Kaloo- yed to-day in properly, the F= SANDWICH ISLANDS. 22. I'oadstead ; the best ancliorage is abreast of the King's Flag Staif. March 13th. This arternoon Mr. May and his boat's crew returned in canoes paddled by natives, the boat having gone to pieces at sea the same day he left the ship. It was very fortunate that Mr. Budd was near at hand witli his boat. Seeing their situation, he inamed lately pulled up to them, and conveyed the crew ashore. He then returned to the wreck for the instruments and Mr. I^-Iay, who he found had di'iftcd, in the meantime, two or three miles out to sea. After landing, they walked some twenty miles before they reached the settlement, where they were hospitably entertained by the chief, and furnished with canoes to bring them back to the ship. Mr. May might have gone ashore with the men, but he generously declined to leave the vrreck until the crew were taken off first. In the evening, Mr. Budd arrived with the instruments ; he stated that bad weather had prevented him from carrying out the instructions, in regard to the survey intrusted to his charge. March 15th. At an early hour this morning, Mr. Budd and Mr. Sanford left with two boats to join the king's schooner, the use of which his Majesty had offered to Captain Wilkes until the shoal off Kaloolawe could be sur- veyed. The following day we ascertained by triangulation, the elevation of the highest peak on Maui. It is six thousand three hundred feet above the level of the ocean. At a height of two thousand feet from the base of this mountain, both the climate and soil are' said to be well adapted to the growth of wheat and Irish potatoes. About noon we got under way, and stood over towards Kaloolawe under all sail. We " lay- to " during the greater part of the night. March 17th. At daylight wore ship, and stood in for Kaloolawe, and soon after fell in with the king's schooner. As she had not yet completed her surveying duties, we called away all our boats, and sent them to assist her. About 9 A. M., the boats returned, and we filled away and stood for Oahoo, while the king's schooner stood back for Maui. The shoal here alluded to is situated about two miles from the shore, has two fathoms water, on it, at low tide, and is composed of a number of rocks, all within the circumference of three hundred feet. Ships passing through the channel between Hawaii and JVIaui, intending to anchor in Lahina Roads, must give Kaloolawe a wide berth, and steer for the Peak of Lanai until the High-school of Lahaina bears to the eastward of east northeast, when they may haul in, and steer directly for it. The principal object in returning to Oahoo, is to replenish our stock of provisions and stores, On the morning of the 19th, we anchored in Honolulu harbor. We found our friends and acquaintances all well, and apparently delighted at our return. Received an official visit from the Governor of the island. He was received with all due respect. Governor Kekuanaoa is a noble, intelligent looking man, and possesses great energy of character. He is one of the chiefs who accompanied King Liho-Liho in his Visit to England, and speaks the English language quite well. He married the daughter of Tamahameha I., and his son Prince Alexander I., is now the heir to the Hawaiian throne. SANDAVICII ISLANDS. 223 over towards »g the greater stood in for ig's schooner, ig duties, we ;o assist her. led away and tood back for On the 22d, Lieutenant Alden, with two boats in charge, left the ship to re-sound, and re-survey the harbor oflf Pearl River, on account of some doub,ts being expressed by the inhabitants of Honolulu, as to the accuracy of the former survey. March 25th. This evening, Lieutenant Alden returned from Pearl River, and reported two of his crew as having deoerted. He states that he found every part of his former survey corrrct. ^0 miles from \v tide, and is circumference 1 the channel or in Lahina steer for the bears to the in, and steer to replenish in Honolulu ces all well, d an official eceived with ?, intelligent 3ter. He is Liho in his guage quite ha L, and e Hawaiian J li I \' .,' .'! I 224 NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAPTER XVIII. NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. Having completed our surveying and scientific duties at the Sandwich Ishmds, on the morning of the 5th of April we sailed for the nortlnvest coast of America. As light wind? prevailed during this and the following day we did not make much progress on our course. On the evening of the 7th, we passed the Island of Kauie. This is another of tlio Sandwich Islands ; it is about fortv miles in length and twenty-three in breath. The population is estimated at 12,000. Its valleys are fertile, and produce sugar-cane, yams, and taro. On the 19th, we experienced a great change in the weather; the wind shifted from the southward and eastward to the northward, and we had some violent squalls, which compelled us to reduce sail to reefed-topsails. In a few minutes after the wind shifted, there was a very sensible change in the temperature, and we found it necessary to put on our woolen clothing to keep comfortable. At noon our latitude ^vas 33° 12' 00" north, longitude 152° 28' 00" west. During the 20th, 21 '^t, and 23d, we must have sailed through hundreds of acres covered with the Villula, or little man-of-war, as they are commonly called by sailors, from their resemblance to a vessel under canvas. They all had their little sails expanded, and were steering in the same direction as our ship. Tlsoir sail is a tldn, semi-transparent membrane, II extending diagonally from one side of the animal to the other. When examined in a bucket of -water in the open air, it ap- peared to be almost white, but in certain lights, and in its native element, its edges are tinged by the most brilliant blue and crimson reflections. From the body are suspended numer- ous hair-like tentacula, or feelers, that are constantly engaged in entangling the food upon which the animal lives. It was an interesting sight to see these delicate little creatures mount- ing securely over the lofty billows, though a brisk breeze was carrying us along at the rate of eight or nine knots an hour. On the morning of the 28th of April we made Cape Disap- pointment, off the mouth of the Columbia River, but, as the weather was boisterous, and the s6a broke with great violence on the bar, we did not deem it prudent to attempt to enter the river. Next morning the prospects of getting in were no better ; indeed, the chances seemed to be still more against us, as the wind during the night had hauled round to the southward and westward with increased strength ; we there- fore concluded to stand for Puget Sound, to the northward. About 10 A. M. on the 30th, the "look-outs" reT3orted " breakers a-head" ; immediately all hands were called, and the ship was brought by the wind. After standing a few minutes on this course the weather cleared, and we discovered Destruction Rocks not more than half a mile off, and exactly in the direction where the breakers had been reported to be. It was in fact a very narrow escape from shipwreck and certain destruction, for even if we had succeeded in getting ashore, we should in all probability have been murdered by the savage natives. A few years ago a Russian brig was wrecked near the same place, the vessel went to pieces, but the crew got safely on shore. They were immediately attacked by the natives and massacred. Another time they attacked the boat •» I i I - 1- ' of an American vessel that was engaged in the fur-trade, and killed several of the crew. The savages pretended at first that they had come to trade. Our pilot, who has been mucli among them, also represents them as being a treacherous and savage set. This circumstance goes to show that we must have been under the influence of a strong current setting to the eastward, for we had been steering all the preceding night noi thwest, a course which gave the rocks a berth of between thirty and forty miles. At 3 P. M. we passed between the two outer Flattery Rocks, carrying ten fathoms all the way through, and between 4 and 5 o'clock passed Cape Flattery proper. We now sailed close along the starboard-shore, which gave us an opportunity of forming some idea of it. A chain of small islands and rocks run parallel with it some eight or ten miles after passing the Cape. It had but little beach, became high and broken in the interior, and was covered with a dense forest, apparently composed of the fir-tree. A little before sunset several canoes put oflf from a small bay and pulled toward us, evidently with the intention of paying us a visit, but we had no time to wait for them to get along-side, and after following us some time they turned back. In two of the canoes we observed several women, who seemed to take as active a share in the labors of the paddle as the men. They were all dressed in skins and blankets, and their heads were covered with a green-look^"ng straw-hat of a conical form, with a very broad base, much resembling those which the Chinese are represented in pictures as wearing. The weathcx' during the night was very disagreeable. May 1st. The weather continues cold and rainy. The shore we have passed to-day has been divided into steep cliffs J NOIITMWKST COAST OF AMKKICA. 22/ and Iliad.-!, with iiiterincd'.ito beaclics. At 9 A. M. a larj^e canoe, paddled by nine Indians, boarded us. They were all small in stature, and far from being good-looking, haviiig broad, ilat faces, with high cheek-bones and low foreheads. They were also very dirty about their persons, so much so that it was difficult to make out the color of their wkin. One of them was dressed in corduroy pantaloons, and a jacket made of scarlet cloth, and could speak a little English. Their own language was harsh and disagreeable, seeming to be made up principally of gutterals, and the sounds duck and click They wore as ornaments a small silver tube stuck through the partition of the nose, and small brass bells suspended around the rim of their cars. They had with them some eight or ten otter skins, but were unwilling to sell them. It seemed as though they had come merely to look at the ship, she being the largest they had ever seen. Tliey remained on board several hours and then went along-side the '* Porpoise." May 2d. This morning another canoe, manned by seven men and one squaw, boarded us. They brougiit with them some fish, which they readily exchanged for a few pipes and some tobacco. The woman was seated in the bow of the canoe, and was not permitted by the men to come on board. At . 30 P. M. we passed Point Dungenness, a low, woody tongue of land. After passing this point, our progress was greatly impeded by a very strong ebb-tide. It run between three and four miles an hour. We observed as we sailed along this part of the coast a great number of tall poles, which our pilot informed me, were stuck up by the Indians for the purpose of suspending nets co them, in which they take geese and other wild fowl that frequent these shores at certain sea- sons of the year. About sunset we reached Port Discovery, and anchored for the night. Numbers of men, women and 228 NoirrnwisT coast ok amkuica. cliiMrcM (';mi',> niniiiu,^ down to iho bcMt-li as soon as wo made our (Mitranoc, and simmc oI' iJifni ^.^ot into their canoes and canic alonjr-sidc. 'I'licy wvvc no better looking nor ni(>re cleanly tlian those \\H> had jx-fore seen, and \\v were very ^lad to purclmsc the fish they bronossible. 'I'his harbor is a sui>erb one, bein;i; easy of access, free from rocks or shoals, ei^ht miles lon^, and fi'om t)ne and a half tn two miles Avide — possessino; the very b{>st kind of bottom, aiiM Avith sullicient de})th of water for the hirore.st vessel to l;iv Avithin two hundred yards of the shore. The country in tlic vicinity is not mcnwitainous, but rises into hills of moderate elevation, covered all over with pine and spruce trees of tli" largest dimensions. May 3d. The following General Order was issued this ftfternoon, and passed round to be read : — It " The nndersigned informs the officers and crews under his command, that the duties upon which they are about to enter, will necessarily bring then*i at times in contact with the savage and treacherous inhabitants of this coast, and he there- fore feels it his duty, to enjoin upon them the necessity of unceasing caution, and a restrictive and mild system in nil their intercourse with them. '' In my General Orders, of July 18th, 1889, my views are expressed fully, respecting our intercourse with savages, and I expect that the instructions therein contained, will be strictly regarded. " With a knowledge that many of the misfortunes that have befallen previous voyagers on this coast, have orison from an unrestrained and unguarded intercourse with the natives, he deems it important to order officers in charge of boats, and A. soon jis we inadc canoes jind eainc nioreeleanly tliaii \f\in\ to purcliaso tiieni out (if till' access, free from ue and a lialf to (I of bottom, aiiM i\st vessel to lay le country in the liills of moderate •uce trees of tli" was issued this NORTH WKST TOAST Ol" AMKUICA. 229 t-t crews under his e about to enter, ontact with the ist, and lie thero- the necessity of Id system in nil ^0, my views avo th savages, and I p Avill be strictly 3rtunes that have c nrisen from an h the natives, he 10 of boats, and those havin<2; men nndi-r their direction, to make it their espe- cial duty to govern them so as to avoid any di^^putes, or mal- treatment of the Indians; and ,that f(»rce is never to be r(e saw enough of their character to convince him that they were not to be trusted, he declined the invitation, and went on some distance further. He also kept strict guard during the night. He passed over some flats, but, generally speaking, his route lay through a rough, hilly country, thickly covered with pine, several of which he measured and found to be up- wards of two hundred feet in height, and from twelve to eighteen in circumference. ^ 248 FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER. On Mr. EUl's return to the camp, tlic -wliolc party aj^ain embarked, and steered down the Chickelees. After a pull of a few miles, tlie banks of the river on both sides became higher and so steep as to render it quite difficult to land. The ''log" "was thrown frequentl}^ to ascertain the strength of the current, which was found to be one-eighth of a mile per hour. We met this day only two Indians. They were Chickelees; j-et, Avhen the interpreter asked them some questions in their tongue, respecting the navigation of the river further down, tiiey pretended not to understand him, and their whole bearing went to show that they were not kindly disposed toward us. We encamped this day on the left bank of the river, and could hear very distinctly the sound of breakers, a circum- stance which convinced us that we must be near the sea-coast. At 9 A. M. the following morning, we resumed our course down the river. For two or three miles the channel was nearly of the same breadth as it v,as on the preceding day, but after that it became several hundred feet wider. The country, as far as the eye could see, varied in character — that on the left bank was low, with only here and there a tree — that on the right bank, high and well wooded. At length, at 9.80 A. M. we made our entrance into Grey's Harbor. It had been our intention to encamp on the south- eastern shore, that being near the scene of our operations ; but the wind, sea, and tide, all three being against us, it was impossible to make any progress. Indeed, my own canoe came very near swamping, several times. We therefore bore away for the southwest, or lee shore, where we finally succeeded in effecting a landing, but found it an exceedingly uncomfortable position. It was an extensive bed of brush, roots, and half- decayed logs, tliat had been thrown up by the tides. Not- withstanding this, wc would have been compelled to reinniu .■;i le party a sain A.ftor a pull of became higher L Tlie"W' of the current, cr hour. We lickelees ; j-et, tions ill their furtlier down, whole bear in or toward us. the river, and TS, a circurn- the sea-coast. >ed our course channel was )receding day, : wider. The laracter — that here a tree — CO into Grey's on the south- ir operations ; inst us, it was ni canoe came )re bore away succeeded in imcomfortalle ots, and half- tides. Not- cd to rem.'iiu oman I have before so often nieutioneil. Knowing: all the while which way we were bound, she had»for some days past been looking out for us, and now that she beheld us in this pitiable situation, she hastened to our nssistance. " I come," said she, " expressly to convey you to the opposite shore, where you will find a suitable place for encampment, and also be less exposed to the wind." We, of course, accepted the offer, and I at once transferred all my things to her canoe, and Mr. Eld did the same with a portion of his baggage ; with this reinforcement, and partly by keeping before the sea, we made very good weather, and at last reached the opposite shore, Avhere we found quite a large encampment of Chickelee Indians. So soon as the tents were erected, Mr. Eld and myself went among the Indians, for the express purpose of nego- tiating for a canoe, to take the party around to the Columbia River. After going about some time, I found an Indian, who said that he had a hirge canoe, which he would sell me, and take his pay at Fort George, as he wanted to be paid in blan- kets, an article which we had not with us. I went with him to examine it ; it was sufficiently capacious, and nearly new, and I told him that he might consider the bargain closed, and I proceeded to give directions about having the canoe launched. It had hardly reached the water, however, when he told the interpreter to say that he was not satisfied with my terms, and the canoe could not be taken away unless I would pay for it on the spot. The reason why I could not pay down, was again stated to him, but to no purpose ; and as Mr. Eld had been equally unsuccessful in his negotiations, we concluded to let the matter drop for tliat day, and return to our encamp- ment. No one Avho has not had dealings with these people, 250 rilOM NISQUALLY TO COH'MllIA lUVKll, can form any idea of tlio (l('ji;roo of })ali('nce it r(M(uir(>s, tc }j;et alciiiii; with tlicni ; llicy aro as ('ljanL!;(>a!)lo as childiTn, and llio word " lionor"" soctns not to bo in tluMr vocabulary. Aftor breakfast, noxt day, [ Avont ajjjain to tlio Indian cn- caniiMnont, to soo about purcliasinfj; a, canoo, and succrcdcd, linally, in in'ocuriii^ one from a Cliief. 1 likewise sueee(Mi,'(l in en<2;a^in}i; six men, wbo promised to remain with us until we readied Astoria. And to make them still more contented, 1 gaA'o them leave to take tluMr wives with them. On retnrninjj; to the camp, 1 )>roeeeded to jjjet my instru- ments, and th.en Avent in search of Mr. Kid, who, I under- stood, had connnenced operations at the opposite side of tlic liarbor. Not beinjj; able, however, to fmd him, I went on sur- veying alone ; at length I saw a canoe at a distance, whicli I supposed to be his. Accordingly, I at once put up the instru- ments, and directed the Indians to pull for the canoo; instcinl of doing this, however, they connnenced com])laining, ainl fuially pulled in for the camp. Here they disembark(Ml, ami declared that th(>y would not remain in our employ anotluT minute, if I did not give them sonu^ powder and tobacco, wliidi I positively rel'ased to do. The women now commenced to pack up their things;, and carry them towards the canoe, a circumstance which induced me to believe that the party intended to take the canoe, and return to their encanipmeiit. I therefore directed sergeant Stearns to seize the mens' mus- kets, and put them in one of the tents. This the sergoatit did, but the moment we turned our backs to the tents, one of the Indians drew his knife, rushed into them, and brought out the guirs, one of which he handrd to a woman. After a short struggle, wo succeeded in retaking the nuiskets, upon whicli an Indian, an ho acted as sjiokesman to the party, came up, and said that they intended to adhere strictly to the bargain which I '0 UVKR. c it HMjuin's, tc as cliildiTU, ;nnl )Ci»l)ul!ivy. ;) the Indian cii- ', and snctHHslcd, kcwisC SlKHMHMi.'il , Avitli us until avc norc c(>ntosito sid(^ of tlic in, I wont on sur- distanco, wliicli I put up tlio instrii- l\e canoe ; instoad coniplainini»;, jiml disond)arkod, ami V employ anotlior nd tobacco, ayIucIi w commenced to ivds the canoo, a ? that the party heir oncanipnieiit. the mens' inus- riiis the sevjToaiit the tents, one of and brouojht out I). After a short dvots, upon ^\■llioll rty, came up, and the bargain which IJ{"M MS(jC AI,I,^ 'lo (OI.IMI'.IA KIVI.U. ijr.i they had made with nic in the niorniiiLS .'Uid were ready to ji;o to work at any nionicnt I (houuht projicr. 1 told ihcni it wuh my wish, they should <^o lorflnvith ; the order was oheyed, and I directed them to pull lor tin; ])lace, vhere I thought I had seen Mr. I\ld. 'I'lie eano(>, however, had not proceeded nnir(> than two hundred yards, when they began to raise n(!W obje(ttions — one complained of being sick, another that he was very hungry, and a third said that he had a sister, who v/as unwell, and he must go and see In)' Ix'fbre he could go any further. I reminded them of their promises, and (!ven ofl'ered to make them a present, if they would go on, but to no pur- pose. They ran (h»wn to their encampment, and when a])reast of it, stood in. On reaching the beach, they landed, and then hauled up the canoe, and I ex])ected notlung less, than being told that I was to consider myself their prisoi.er. Such, how- ever, was not the case ; they said nothing about my remaining with them; and when I remarked that I wished t(,' cturn to our camp, they even fui !.shed me with a small canoe, to ferry me over the stream, wliich sej^arated the two encampments. The following day, the owners of the muskets came to the camp, and begged that they might be returned to them, and we fmally yielded to their wishes. Owing partly to tlieso troubles with the Indians, and partly to bad weather, we liad made but little progress in the survey of the liarbor as yet. Some days it stormed so furiously, that wo could not venture out at all. On the Gtb of August, we shifted our camp about six miles toward the Capes. After staying licre a few days we selected aiiOther place at the South Head. Our greatest difficulty now ■was the want of provisions. All our stores had been exhausted, 'and for some days past we had been living on dead fish we picked up on the beacli, and some cammass root which we had IIIOM NISQUALI.V TO COLUMBIA RIVER. Loiiglit from tlie Indians. Tliis state of tilings lasted until tlio 18t]i of August, -when Licntenant De Haven who had been sent by Captain Wilkes to afl'urd us relief, arrived with a sujtply of provisions. This cnaljled us to go on our usual ration, and in a few days wc all regained our strength, and were able to proceed with our surveying duties. From Mr. Do Haven we learned for the first time the loss of the " Peacock" on the bar off the mouth of the Columbia River. On the 24th the survey was completed, and we set out for Astoria, where the Squadron was now lying. The soil in the vicinity of Grey's Harbor is of an inferior quality, and the harbor itself seems to offer but few facilities for commercial purposes. The channel is narrow, the widtii being from one-half to two-thirds of a mile, with dangerous breakers on both sides. The depth of water is from five to seven fiithoms. The space after entering is extensive, but the greatest part of it is filled up with mud flats which are bare at low water, and confine the harbor for the anchorage of vessels to a few liundred vards. The River Chickelees before enter- ing into the harbor, increases in width some six or seven hun- dred feet and is navigable for vessels drawing ten or twelve feet of water for several miles above its mouth. Fogs prevail in the summer season, and some days during our stay we found tliem so dense as to render it impossible for us to proceed with our surveying duties. The tides are irregular and influenced by the winds ; the time of high water at change and full was found to be 11 hours 25 minutes. The Indians, who inhabit the shores of the harbor, call them- selves Chickelees, and their number is about two hundred ; they construci their huts after the manner of the Sqnamish :r. r--^ ?tcd until tho ho had been rived with a usual ration, nd were able time the loss he Columhia 3 set out for f an inferior few facilities w, the widtii th dangerous from five to nsive, but the h are bare at ge of vessels before enter- r seven hun- en or twelve dnys during mpossible for ! winds ; the nd to be 11 )r, call them- 70 hundred ; lie Sqnamisli ■■ «*ii ■Sill-' ■ ffij! . . li I FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER. 4 tribe, and, like them, live principally by fishing. We found them well supplied with blankets, muskets and knives. They are excessively tend of tobacco, and invariably swallow i\i'i smoke, and oftentimes retain it so long in the stomach as tv, throw them into convulsions. Tliuy enjoy high reputation as warriors, for which reason they are much dreaded by their neighbors, the Sachals and Sachaps, who are of a more peace- able character. Their amusements are similar to those of the tribes residing about Nisqually. On the day of our pear((l to bo in good liealtli and fine S]»irits, and all s[)oke of the kind treatment they Is'id received from Mr. Ijirnic, the a<^ent of tlie IInds()n\s Bay Company at Astoiia, tind I take tliis occasion to say, that liis treatment to Mr. Eld and myself also, was such as to merit onr warmest thanks. From Avhat I conld learn, both from officers and ci ew, I inferred, that the loss of tlie a 'eacocl .1^ was an una- (la])]( (1 lliat th ill the whole disaster, C; OCClll'rence, imu uimu uuxhi^ii lul* \miuhj ui,'->;isLt'r, l^.ap- tain Hudson's behavior had Ijeen that of ii good officer an(l an able seaman. During our stay at Astoria I also had the pleasure of be- coming acquainted witli an American missionary and his lady, Mr. and Mrs. Sinitli. 'i'hey haes, and as many shades, whic'iij of coiuvse, is a \: lemen from neiL writers agree in referring the introduction of the name to (.'arver's Travehi. Jonathan Carver, a native of Connecticut, set out from Boston, in 1766, soon after the transfer of Canada to Great Britain, on an expedition to the regions of the Up])er .Missii.sipjii, with tlie ultimate jiurpose of ascertaining the hreadih of that vast (Jontinent, which extends from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocoaii, in its broadest part, between -lo" and 46" of north latitude. Carver did not succeed in penetrating to the Pacific Ocean, but he first made known, or at least established a belief in the existence of a great river, termed, apparently, by the Indian nations in the interior, Oregon, or Oregan, the source of which, he placed not far from the head waters of the river Missouri, "on the other side of the summit of the lands that divide the waters, which run into the Gulf of Mexico, from those which fall into the Pacific Ocean." He was led to infer from the account of the natives, that this " Great River of the West" emptied itself near the Straits of Anian, although it may be observed, that the situation of the so called Straits of Arian themselves, were not at this time accurately fixed. Carver, however, was misled in this latter lespect, bu' the description of the locality, where he placed the source of the ■i N. r EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON. 265 Ko name of New is Drake, in l^js. tructions furnishc',! to Captain Cook. ew Albion, cn.lea. -o . At a lut.r y Georgia to th ^ire country, nortl, from the Rockv -^iven the name „f on)pany formed ai, ckj Mountains, ii, 'ther jiand, in tk government, v.liidi -essels in Nootka i the Escuriiil, m le Coast of Culi- he term Oregonf "' ^"^ "ot been clearly lie introduction of the tinecticut, set out from itain, on an expedition ose of ascertaining the ■c to the Pacific Ocean, ■verdidnot succeed in ^ at least established a the Indian nations in teed not far from the summit of the lands rom those which fall It of the natives, that s of Anian, although of Arian themselves, misled in this latter 1 the source of the t rritory, as api)lic'd to tiie entire country. ii!tLi-me{liaL3 l>e- tw-vA the dominions of Russia rnd Mexico, respectively — its 1 oMiiilaries will be the Rocky Mountains on the east, t}u; i^icific Ocean on the west, the parallel of 54° 40' north Irtt'- tiidv on the north, and that of 42^ north latitude on the south,. The entire superficies would thus amount to 501,(300 geogra- ].liic:il square miles. If, on the other hand, we accept the ii'rth-western limit, which Mr. Greenhow has marked out for '• tlic Cnuntry of the Columbia," namely, the range of moun- tiiiis whicli stretches north-eastward, from the eastern extre- iiiiry of tlie Straits of Fuca, about four hundred miles, to the Ki'cky Mountains; separating tlie Avaters of the Columbia fro;i) tlio^e of Fraz('r\s River, it wiil include not less tluin 400.000 scjuare miles in superficial extent, which is nearly half of all the States of the Federal Union. Such ai-e the geographical limits of the Oregon Territory, in its Avidest and in its narrov>-est extent. The Indian hunter I'oaiui'd throughout it, undisturbed by civilized man, till near the conclusion of the last century, when Captain James Kin;i, on his return from the expedition, which proved so fatal to Captain Cook, made known the high prices which ih? fur .>f th,e sea-otter commanded, in the markets of C'lina, and, there! )y attracted the attention of Europeans to it. The en- l-i, and aiichoiud (df Astoiii. distant tiliout ton miles liuai t!iC mouth of th-j !ii,ei EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON. L Lctweeu the native hunters, ulon*^ the northwest coast of America, and the Ciiinese, as early as 178G. The attempt of the Spaniards to suppress this trade, by the seizure of tlie vessels engaged in it, in 1789, led to the dispute between the Crowns of Spain and Great Britain, in respect to the claim to exclusive sovereignty, asserted by the former power over the Port of Nootka and the adjacent latitudes, which was brought to a close by the Convention of the Escurial, in 1790. The European merchants, however, who engaged in tliis lucrative branch of eonmierce, confined their visits to stations on the coasts, Avhei-e the natives brought from the interior the produce of their hunting expeditions ; and even respecting the coast itself, very little accurate information was possessed by Europeans before Vancouver's survey. Vancouver, as is -^vell known, was dispatched in 1791 by the British Govern- ment to superintend, on the part of Great Britr'in, the execu- tion of the Convention of the Escurial, and he was at the same time instructed to survey the coast from 35° to 60°, with a A irw to ascertain in what parts civilized nations had made settlement.-, and likewise to determine whether or not auv ell' '( tive Avater- communication, available for commercial pur- l)u;-es, exist'^'d in those parts between the Atlantic and Paciiic Oceans. A Spanish Expedition, under Galiano and Val(k\<, AN as engaged about the same time upon the same object; so that from this period, namely, the concluding decade of the hisi «'entury, the coast of Oregon may be considered to have been sufficiently well known. The interior, however, of the country had remained hitherto unexplored, and no white man seems ever to have crossed the R^cky I\Iountains prior to Alexander Mackenzie in 1793. Having ascended the Unjigah, or Peace River, from the At- habaska Lake on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains to liwost coast of The attempt e seizure of the ite between the ; to the chiiiii to power over the ich was brought in 1700. 3U^aged in this 'isits to stations the interior tlie jven respectiiic n "was possessed 'ancouver, as is British Govern- tr.'in, the excL-u- he was at tlie 35° to 60°, with tions had made ler or not auv )mmercial pur- Qtic and Pacilic no and Vahkvs aine object; so ; decade of the idered to have mained hitherto ave crossed the enzie in 1793. •, from the At- y Mountains to EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON. 2tw one of its sources in 51° 21' 00", Mackenzie embarked upon a river' flowing from the wes^tcrn base of the mountains, called by the natives Tacoutcho Tossc. This was generally supposed to be the northernmost branch of the Columbia River, till it was traced in 181- to the Gulf of Georgia, where it empties itself in 49° latitude, and was henceforth named Frazer's River. Mackenzie having descended this river for about 250 miles, struck across the country westward, and reached the sea in 52° 20' 00", at an inlet which had been surveyed a short time before by Vancouver, and had been named by him Cascade Canal. This was the first expedition of civilized men through the country west of the Rocky Moun- tains. It did not lead to any immediate result in the way of settlement, though it paved the way by contributing, in con- jimction with Vancouver's survey, to confirm the conclusion at which Captain Cook had arrived, that the American continent extended in an unintcnupted line north-westward to Bchring's Straits. The result of Mackenzie's discoveries was to open a wide field to the westward for the enterprise of British merchants engaged in the fur-trade ; and thus we find a settlement in this extensive district made not long after the publication of his voyage, by the agents of the Northwest Company. This great association had been growing up sinco 1784, upon the wreck of the French-Canadian fur- trade, and gradually ab- sorbed into itself all the minor companies. It did not, ho""^- ever, obtain its complete organization till 1805, when it soon became a most formidable rival to the Hudson's Bay Company, •which had been chartered as early as 1670, and had all but suc- ceeded in monopolizing the entire fur-trade of North America, after the transfer of Canada to Great Britain. The Hudson's Bay Company, with the characteristic security of a chartered 268 EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON. company, luul confined thc'r posts to the shores of the ample territory -which had been granted to them by the Charter of Charles II., and left the task of procuring furs to the enter- prise of the nntive hunters. The practice of the hunters was to suspend their chase during the summer months, when the fur is of inferior quality and tiie animals rear their young, and to descend by the lakes and rivers of the interior to the estab- lished marts of the Company, with the produce of the past ^tvinter's campaign. The Northwest Company adopted a totally different system. They dispatched their servants into the very recesses of the wilderness to bargain with the native hunters at their homes. They establisln.'d " wintering part- ners" in the interior of the country to superintend the inter- course with the various tribes of Indians, and employed at one time not fewer than two thousand voyageurs-^ or boatmen. The natives being thus no longer called away from their pur- suit of the beaver and other animals, by the necessity of resorting as hevetofore to the factories of the Hudson's Bay Company, continued on their hunting-grounds during the whole year, and were tempted to kill the cub and full-grown animal alike, and thus to anticipate the supply of future j^ears. As the nearer hunting-grounds became exhausted, the North- west Company advanced their stations westwardly into regions previously unexplored, and in 1800 they pushed forward a post across the Rocky Mountains, through the passage where the Peace River descends through a deep chasm in the chain, a.nd formed a trading establishment on a lake now called Frazer's Lake, situated in 54° north latitude. It is from this period, according to Mr. Harnon, who was a partner in the com- pany, and superintendent of its trade on the wertern side of the Rocky Mountains, that the name of New Caledonia had been used to designate the northern portion of the Oregon Territory. of the ample the Charter of s to the enter- e hunters was 'iiths, when the leir young, and >r to the estab- ce of the past ny adopted a r servants into witli the native vintering part- end the inter- mployed at one ■5 or boatmen, •om their pur- e necessity of Hudson's Bay Is during the and full-grown f future years, ed, the Nortli- ly into regions led forward a passage where a in the chain, ke now called It is from this ler in the com- :ern side of the .onia had been gon Territory. EARLV IirSTOilY OF OREGON. 269 The United States of America had in the meantime not femnined inattentive to their own^ future commercial interests in tliis quarter, as tliey iiad dispatched from the southern side an exploring party across t..e Rocky Mountains almost imme- diately after their purchase of Lousiana in I8O0. On tliis oc- casion Mr. Jefferson, then President of the United States, com- missioned Captains Lewis and Clarke "to cx}>lore the River Missouri and its principal branches to their sources, and then to seek and trace to its termination in the Pacific, some stream, whether the Columbia, the Oregon, the Colorado, or any other which might offer tlie most direct and practicable water-comrnunication across the continent for the purpose of commerce.'' The party succeeded in passing the Rocky Mountains towards the end of September, in 1805, and after following, by the advice of their native guides, the Kooskookee River, which they reached in latitude 48° 34' 00", to its junction with the principal southern tributary of the Great River of the West, they gave the name of Lewis to this tributary. Having in seven days afterwards reached the main stream, they traced it down to the Pacific Ocean, where it was found to empty itself in latitude 46° 18' 00" north. They thus identified the Oregon, or Great River of the West of Carver, with the river to whose outlet Captain Grey had given the name of his vessel, the Columbia, in 1702, and having passed the winter among the Clatsop Indians in an encampment on the south side of the river, not very far from its mouth, which they called Fort Clatsop, they commenced with the approach of spring the ascent of the Columbia on their return homeward. After reaching the Kooskookee, they pursued a course eastward, till they ar"ived at a stream, to wi:ich they gave the name of Clarke, as considering it to be the upper part of the main river which they had previously called jipr p 270 EARLY HISTOKV OF OaiCGON. Clarke at its confluorico ^vlth tlie Lmvis. Here they separal-d at about the forty-seventh parallel of latitude. Captain Lewis then struck across the country northward to the Rocky Mountains, and crossed tliern so as to reach the head-waters of the Maria River, which empties itself into the Missouri, just below the Falls. Captain Clarke, on the other hand, followed the Clarke River towards its source, in a southward direction, and then crossed through a gap in the Rocky Moun- tains, so as to descend the Yellow Stone River to the Missouri. Both parties united once more on the banks of the Missouri, and arrived in safety at St. Louis in September, 180G. The reports of tl^.is Expedition seem to have first directed the attention of traders in the United States to the hunting- grounds of Oregon. The Missouri Fur Company was formed in 1808, and Mr. Henry, one of its agents, established a trading post on a branch of the Lewis River, the great southern arm of the Columbia. The hostility, however, of the natives, combined with the difficulty of procuring supplies, compelled Mr. Henry to abandon it in 1810. The Pacific Fur Com- pany was formed about this time at New York, with the object of engaging in the fur commerce between China and the north- west Coast of America. The head of this association was John Jacob Astor. He had already obtained a charter from the Legislature of New York, in 1809, incorporating a Com- pany, under the name of the American Fur Company, to compete with the i\Iackinaw Company of Canada, within the Atlantic States, of which he was himself the real representa- tive, according to Mr. Washington Irving — his board of Di- rectors being merely a nominal body. Mr. Astor engaged nine partners in his scheme, of whom six were Scotchmen, who had all been in the service of the Northwest Company, and three were citizens of the United States. =i re they separated . Captain Lewis I to the Ilockv the head-waters to the Missouri, the other hand, , in a southward he Rocky Moun- ' to the Missouri. of the Missouri, er, 180G. ve first directed to the huutin"-- )any was formed ;s, established a e great southern •, of the natives, plies, compelled icific Fur Com- :, with the object a and the north- association was a charter from wrating a Com- : ir Company, to ada, within the 'eal representa- s board of Di- ;or engaged nine Scotchmen, who Company, and Having at lust arran^fcd his plans, he dispatched in Septem- ber, 1810, four of his partners, witli twenty-seven subor- dinate officers and servants, iu tlie ship, " Toncjuin," com- manded by Jonathan Tliorne, a lieutenant in the United States Navy, to establish a settlement at the moutli of the Columbia River. They arrived at their destination in March, 1811, and erected a fort and other necessary buildings on the south side of the river, about ten miles from the mouth, to which the name of Astoria was given. The Tonquin proceeded in June on a trading voyage to the northward, and was de- stroyed, with her crew, by the Indians in the Bay of Clyoqiiot, near the entrance of the Strait of Fuca. In the following month of July, Mr. Thomson, the agent of the Northwest Company, descended the northern branch of the Columbia, and visited the settlement at the mouth of the Co- lumbia. He vras received with friendly hospitality by the Superintendent of the Pacific Company, and shortly took his departure again. Mr. Stujirt, one of Mr. Aster's partners, accompanied him up the river as far as its junction with the Okinagan, where he remained during the winter, collecting furs from the natives. The Factory at Astoria, in the mean- time, was reinforced in January, 1812, by a further detach- ment of persons in the service of the Pacific Fur Company, who had set out overland early in 1811, and after suffering extreme hardships, and losing several of their number, at last made their way in separate parties to the mouth of the Colum- bia. A third detachment was brought by the ship " Beaver" in the following May. All the partners of the Company, ex- clusive of Mr. Astor, had now been dispatched to the scene of their future trading operations. Mr. Mackay was alone wanting to their nuraber ; he had unfortunately proceeded northwards with Captain Tliorne, in order to make arrange- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k // /. ^^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 ■50 It ^ L£ 12.0 I IE ^1^ am. *V^- Hiotographic Sciences Corporation <^ ^ m \ :\ \ [V vjl, «- 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4S ■4f '•fc ' .^^% <^^ ¥ o . ortionally the base illamette elevation thed with vere frost the day \^<^ i 1 The. Black-tailed Deer. OVKRLAM) i:XPKI)ITK)N TO SAN FRANCISCO. 283 On tlie lOth we oiicanii)t.'d on the Elk River. Tliia river is so cuHcmI because its bunks ubuuiid in elk ; it is about one- halt' of the size of the Willamette River, aiul has coiisiderablo current. We had scarcely pitched our tents, \vhen some ef the hunters succeeded in killin;,' an elk aiid a deer. They were brou<^lit into camp, and divided amon^ the difll-rent messes. The following; morning', Messrs. Emmons, Agate, and ser- geant Stearns, \vith IJoileau as a j^uide, left the camp for Fort Unipquoa, for the double object of examining the country and exchanging several of the pack-hor' es, which had nearly given out. This fort belongs to the Hudson's Bay Company, and is constructed after the maniier of those of Nisqually and Van- couver. It is situiited on the Umpquoa River, a fine stream, which empties into the ocean. The Su[)erinttiidL'iil of tl.c esiubiibluiiL'ht, Mr. Gaiigricre, gave Mr. Enuuons a very unfavorable aetwunt of the Indians who inhabited this region. lie stated tliat he had long before heard of the intended journey, througli the Indians, and that the news had passed on to all the tribes, who were collecting in large numbers, to oi)pose our passage He also endeavored to dissuade Mr. Emmons from proceeding any further, by telling him that these Indians were a brave race, consequently in the event of an attack, our party must be destroyed, for he thought it was very small. According to our hunters, the Ump(juoa cuunti'v abovuids in beaver, deer, and bears. About du.^k Mr. Emmons returned, accompanied by Mesdames Ik'ihau and Cjjingriere, who wished to see the camp, and c< nsult the doctor. He commu- nicated to the party, what Mr. Gangrierc had stated in rela- tion to the Indians, and gave orders for Increasing the number of sentries about the camp, to niake n;ore cartridges, and to put all the arras in the best fighting condition. At an early hour on the 18th, we resumed our march. Mesdames Boileau and Gracgriere accompanied us for a few miles, and then left, to return to Fort Umpquoa. On the 19th we deviated from the direct road, in order to avoid any chance of an encounter with the Indians. This brought us to the north fork of the Umpquoa, which we forded without any accident, though, before making the attempt, it was reasonably feared that we might meet with many, from the fact that the current was very rapid, and the bottom extremely slippery. The rocks observed in this region, contain fossils, and occasionally exhibit seams of coal. During this day many friendly Indians were seen, who reported that the hos- tile tribes were preparing to dispute our passage. We passed one large party, composed entirely of women, who were out gathering roots. They were all passe, and extremely ugly. One old woman can only be described by Juvenal, — " Such wriukles see, As in an Indian forest's solitude, Some old ape scrubs amidst her numerous brood." During the 20th, our route lay through a succession of hills and valleys, intersected by numerous streams. None of the hills are more than four hundred feet in height, and all are susceptible of cultivation, the soil being apparently as good as that in the valleys. We 'saw, in the course of this day, several grisly bears, and the hunters fired many balls at them ; but they did not succeed in killing any. At sunset we encamped on die south branch of the Umpquoa River. During the. night our rest was much disturbed by the howling of wolves, which are very numerous in these parts. The following day we crossed the Umpquoa River; it is not s" broad nor so deep as the northern branch. We passed. :isco. d our inarch. I us for a few id, in order to ndians. This hich we forded he attempt, it aany, from the ttom extremely contain fossils, ring this day that the hos- i. We passed who were out ctremely ugly, al, — 1 brood." succession of ims. None of it, and all are ently as good e of this day, nany balls at At sunset we 3quoa River. y the howling ts. River ; it is We passed. fr -_j- J- ,>. «^ »»»*'- T/ie C<-mmon Wolf. .'■Xi^^a*. -^-r- ~^yvi II ^^iii\M\Asi^ The Dusky Wolf. J Il.il I daring this day's ride, a number of Indian graves ; they were surrounded with poles, one end of which was stuck in the ground, to the other were suspended the goods of the deceased, such as mats, blankets, bows, and arrows. We also met several small parties of Umpquoa Indians, who declared them- selves to be friendly to the v,hites, and were anxious to obtain powder and balls, but we refused to furnish them. We expected an attack during the night, from the hostile tribes, and had prepared to give them a warm reception ; but none appeared. On the 22d, at an early hour, we commenced to ascend the Umpquoa Mountains. The path was narrow and very steep, so much so, that several of the pack-horses stumbled and were considerably injured. At 11 A. M. we halted, for nearly half an hour, to rest the animals. At 4, having reached the summit of the ridge, we again rested for a few minutes, and then commenced descending, and by sunset we arrived at the valley beneath, where we spent the night. We found the greatest elevation of the mountain to be 1750 feet. During the 23d, we remained at the same encampment, in order to give the horses time to recover from the fatigue under- gone, and to afford Mr. Peale an opportunity of finding his caraera-Iucida and drawings, which had dropped" out of his carpet-bag, while crossing the mountains yesterday. At 3, he returned, and brought with him the camera-lucida ; the other articles he was unable to find. W^e observed, in the neighborhood of this encampment, a considerable nuruber of the Pinus Lambertiana Douglas. On the 21th we resumed our route. The country looked much less inviting than it did on the other side of the moun- tain. Perhaps the contrast would not have been so striking, had there not been an almost entire destitution of vegetation. r'A ■ i| i l H-ilLtP 1 iit! » rf W 288 OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO. the fire having tk'stroyed everything but the trees. The rocks are intersected with veins of quartz, and the soil is sandy and generally of a light-red color. In the course of the day, the hunters discovered the fresh foot-prints of Indians, and in searching for the savages, they came upon three squaws, who had been left, when the others fled. It was clear that the savages were closely watching our movements, and only waited for a good opportunity to pounce upon us. At 4 P. M. we arrived, and encamped on the banks of Young's Creek, where we found a party of Klamet Indians ; they looked very innocent, and pretended to be glad to see us ; but the guide represented them as being the most rascally set in all Oregon — calling them horse-thieves, robbers, and murderers. During the 25tli and 26th, our road lay through an undu- lating country, interspersed with forests of the Pinus Lamber- tiana. I tasted the sugar produced by this singular tree, and found it to be slightly bitter. It is a powerful cathartic, yet I was told that the trappers used it as a substitute for sugar ; the Indian mode of collecting it is to burn a cavity in the tree, whence it exudes in large quantities. We passed, on the last of these days, Tootootutnas River, another beautiful stream, upwards of one hundred yards in width, and abound- ing in salmon and other fish. The land, a few hundred yards from its banks, rises into hills of considerable height, formed principally of granite sand. Several Indians came about the camp and pretended to be friendly, but we placed no confidence in their professions, and sent them away before night came on. They had canoes with which they navigated the neighboring streams, but they were very rude, and dug out square at the extremes. During both these days most of the gentlemen of the party SCO. trees. The i the soil is ed the fresh avages, they n the others vatching our ty to pounce iped on the y of Klamet d to be glad ng the most k^es, robbers, ;h an undu- lus Lamber- ar tree, and ithartic, yet 3 for sugar ; iVity in the passed, on er beautiful Lnd abound- 3W hundred ible height, )nded to be jssions, and canoes with : they were f the party '^'a«>«v The Bison. The Alltel' ipi\ Af> OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO. 291 and several of the sailors suflfered excessively from attacks of the ague. In my own case, the chills were so violent, that it was impossible to travel while they lasted. On the 27th, we reached one of those places where it was said the Indians never failed to make their attacks. We had one man In the party who had been twice assaulted at the same place. It was a steep rocky spot, close by the river Tootootutnas. As we passed on, many armed Indians were observed on the opposite side of the stream, and, occasionally, were heard to utter yells, which were absolutely infernal, but they did not attempt to oppose our progress. We were fully prepared for them, and, it was this, no doubt, which prevented their making an assault. Even the wives cf the hunters were armed on the occasion. We saw this day a f^veat variety of game, among which was the antelope. It is said tlie Iny, to liani^ down to their shoulders in natural ringlets. Their food consists of ji;ame, fish, and acorns, which they make into bread. Their huts are small, and devoid of comfort. They have bows ami arrows, with Avhich they shoot admirably. An ordinary sized l)ution was set up as a mark thirty yards off, and they hit it three times out of five; they can alao kill birds on the wing. 'I'he arrows are nearly three feet long, and feathered from six to ten inches. In shooting, the bow is held horizontally, braced by tlie thumb of the left hand, and drawn by the th.umb and three fingers of the ric^ht hand ; ant of the larger towns. Then, the tastes and passions of an idle thron;^ rang on the guitar and the fan- dango ; now, the calculations of the busy nndtitu(k's turn to the cultured held and productive mine. Then, California was a dependency of iMi'xico, and subject to revolutions, with tlie success of every daring military chieftain ; now, she is an independent State, with an enliglitened constitution, which guarantees 0({ual rights and privileges to all. Then, she was in arms against our Hag ; now, she unrolls it on the breeze, with the star of her own being and pride glowing in the con- stellation which blazes on its folds. ** Three years ago, and San Francisco contained three hun- dred souls ; now she has a population of twenty-seven thou- sand.* Then, a building-lot within her limits cost fifteen dollars ; now, the same lot cannot be purchased at a less sum than fifteen thousand. Then, her commerce was confined to a few Indian blankets, and Mexican reboses and beads ; now, from two to three hundred merchantmen are unloading their costly cargoes on her quay. Then, the famished whaler could hardly find a temporary relief in her markets ; now, she has phrenzied the world with her wealth. Then, Benicia was a pasture, covered with lowing herds ; now, she is a commercial mart, threatening to rival her sister nearer the sea. Then, Stockton and Sacramento City were covered with wild oats, where the elk and deer gamboled at will ; now, they are laced with streets and walled with warehouses, through which the great tide of commerce rolls off into a hundred mountain glens. Then, the banks of the Sacramento and San Joaquin ♦ According to tho last accounts, it ha: increased to 4" 000. GOLD. r Jiniplu rivers icr, iiiJi;^;izine, vy ; now, they It'll, the tastes r Juul the i'liii- tudt'S turn to en, Caliiurnia volutions, with now, she is an jtution, whieh 'I'hen, she was on the breeze, tig in the con- ned three hun- ty-seven thou- IS cost fifteen 1 at a less sum s confined to a I beads ; now, mloading their d whaler could now, she has Benicia was a 1 a commercial e sea. Then, rith. wild oats, they are laced igh which the red mountain 1 San Joaquin 4: 000. I CALIKOKNIA AFTKR TIIK UISCOVERY OF GOLD. 811 '^ were cheered only by the curling smoke of the Indian's hut ; now, they throw on the eye, I'.t every bend, the cheerful aspect hamlet Then, the sik some new liamiet or town, inen, tlie silence ol the Merra )f the Si of Nevada was broken only by the voice of its streams ; now, every cavern and clift" is echoing under the blows of the sturdy miner. The wild horse, startled in his glen, leaves on the hill the clatter of his hoofs, while the huge bear, roused from his jiatrimonial jungle, grimly retires to some new mountain-fast- ness. *' But I nmst dro}) this contrast of the past w ith the present, and glance at a few facts which affect the future. The gold deposits whieh have hitherto been discovered, are confined, mainly, to the banks and beds of perpetual streams, or the bottoms of ravines, through which roll the waters of the transient freshet. These deposits are the natural results of the law of gravitation ; the treasures which they contain nmst have been washed from the slopes tf the surrounding hills. The elevations, like spendthrifts, seei-. Lo have i»arted entirely with their golden inheritance, except what may linger still in the quartz. And these gold-cuutuiniiig quartz will be found to have their confined localities ; tli. y will crowii the insular peaks of a mountain-ridge, or fret the verge of some extin- guished volcano ; they have never been found in a continuous range, except in the dreams of enchantment ; you miglit as well look for a wall of diamonds or a solid bank of pearls. Nature has played ofi' many a prodigal caprice in' California, but a mountain of gold is not one of them. 'I'he alluvial gold, will, at no distant ihiy, be measurably exhausted, and the miners be driven into the mountains. Here, the work can bo successfully prosecuted only by eonrpanles, with heavy capi- tals. All the uncertainties which are euunected with mining operations, wll] ^ 'thor around these enterprises. Wealtb. Vw'.I reward the labors of the few, whose ".uccess was mainly the result of good fortune, while disappointment will attend the efforts of the many, equally skillful and persevering. These wide inequalities in the proceeds of the miner's labor, have exhibited themselves, wherever a gold deposit has been hunted or found in California. The past is the reliable prophecy of the future. " Not one in ten of the thousands who have feone, or may go to California to hunt for gold, will return with a fortune ; still the great tide for emigration will set there, till her valleys and mountain-glens teem with a hardy enterprising population. As the gold deposits diminish, or become more difficult of access, the quicksilver mines will call forth their unflagging energies. This metal slumbers in her mountain-spurs in massive richness ; the process is simple w^hich converts it into that form, through which the mechanic arts subserve the thousand purposes of science and social refinement, while the medical profession, through its strange abuse, keep up a Car- nival in the Court of Death ; but for this they who mine the ore are not responsible — they will find their reward in the wealth which will follow their labors. It will be in their power to silence the hammers in those mines which have hitherto monopolized the markets of the world. But the enterprise and wealth of California are not confined to her mines. Her ample forests of oak, redwood and pine, only wait the requisite machinery to convert them into elegant residences and strong-ribbed ships. Her exhaustless quarries of granite and marble will yet pillar the domes of metropoli- tan Sj-'iendor and pride. The hammer and drill will be relinquisned by multitudes for the plough and sickle. Her arable land, stretching through her spacious valleys, and along the broad banks of her rivers, will wave with the golden har- maialy the attend the mg. These hibor, have has been the reliable , or may go a fortune ; I her valleys population* diiBcuIt of unflagging j in-spurs in i^erts it into ■bserve the ;, while the up a Car- mine the ard in the >e in their ^hich have >t confined and pine, ito elegant IS quarries oaetropoli- 1 will be ^le. Her Md along Iden har- I . vest ; the rain-cloud may not visit her in the summer months, but the mountain-stream will he induced to throw its showers over her thirsty plains. " Such was California a few years since — such is she now, and such will she become even before they who now rush to her shores, find their footsteps within the shadows of the pale realm." i CHAPTER XXII. GENERAL OBSERVATIOI^S ON CALIFORNIA. California was discovered by the Spaniards about 1534, and towards the close of the succeeding" century, the Jesuits estabhshed themselves in it to convert the natives. The ef- forts of the missionaries have nominally converted about half the natives to Christianity, but the number of the native in- habitants are rapidly decreasing, and they do not number at present more than fourteen thousand. Though divided into many tribes, they are understood to belong to the same family, speaking the same language, and having similar manners and customs. The stature of these people varies with their habits. Those who subsist chiefly on fish, and inhabit the sea-coast, are sel- dom more than five feet and six inches in height, with slender forms, while those who occupy the great valleys in the interior are tall and robust. Their complexion is a shade or two darker than that of the Indians in Oregon and about the Columbia ; their noses are broad and flat ; the hair is black, coarse, and straight, and their lips are thick, like the negro. The forehead is low and contracted ; eyebrows and beard scanty. They have the habit common to all American Indians of extracting the beard and hair of other parts of the body. During the summer months the men seldom conceal their nakedness ; but the females always have a rush or a skin- covering around the waist. The women are also fond of tat- A. A. about 1534, the Jesuits s. The ef- about half native in- number at divided into same family, nanners and bits. Those )ast, are sel- with slender . the interior lade or two d about the air is black, 3 the negro, and beard •ican Indians of the body, lonceal their L or a skin- fond of tat- tooing, and ornaiiK'nt their arms and breasts with it. Tlieir habitations arc formed of pliable poles, with tlieir butts in- serted into the ground and tied together at the top. These are interwoven with brush and thatched with bulrushes ; the interior of those wigwams is usually very filthy, and contain no furniture, except a few wooden bowls, a small netting-sack in which to put their fruit and seeds, another in the form of a bag to sling on the shoulders, for the purpose of carrying their infants when traveling, one o; two fishhig-nets, and a sca- shell for dipping water to drink. Among some of the tribes, parentage and other relations of consanguinity are no obstacles to matrimony. A man often marries a whole family, the mother and daughters, and it is said that in such cases no jealousies ever appear among these families of wives. They seem to consider their offspring as the property of all, and the husband as their common protector. It is known that those tribes which have not embraced Christianity do nevertheless believe in the control of good and evil spirits, to whom they occasionally offer prayers ; and as a proof of their having some idea of a future state, they inva- riably deposit bows and arrrows, and cooking utensils in the graves of their dead. The part of Upper California inhabited by foreign settlers, is a tract extending five hundred miles along the shore of the Pacific, and bounded inland at an average distance of forty miles from the coast by a range of hills. The most southern portion of this region is torrid and parched, but as we proceed noi ch, the climate becomes more favorable, though the country is subject to long and severe droughts, which occasion great distress. There are many streams in this part of California, which carry off the water in torrents to the ocean, during the rainy season, and cause the valleys which they water, to afford good pasturage for tlie cattle wliieli are found tliere in large numbers. There are but tv*'o tracts of country capable of sup- porting a large population — one west of Mount San Barnardino, and the other surrounding the Bay of San Francisco and the lower part of the Sacramento. To the east of the California Mountains are the vcist sandy plains, of whicli but little is known ; nor have any attempts been made to explore the more northern portion of this section. The valleys of San Juan and that of Sacramento, are capable of producing great crops of wheat, rye, oats, Indian corn, potatoes, , cg^R<3 iK\' :^ GENERAL OJISERVATIONS ON CALIFORNIA. 821 nothing of government but its brutal force, nothing of religion but ceremonies of the national ritual. Their amusements are music, cock-fighting, bear-bniting, and horse-racing. Wed- dings generally last for three or four days, and usually end in some quarrel. The " cuchillo" is always worn, and is resorted to in all their aftrays. The females are very fond of dress, and their propensity for gambling is as great as that of the male portion of the community. I 822 CONQUEST OF CALIKORNA CHAPTER XXIII. CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA BY THE UNITED STATES. The Commander-in-Chief of the Pacific Squarlron, Com- modore Sloat, received reliable information, at Mazatlan, on the Tth of Ji lie, 1846, tliat the Mexican troops, six or seven thousand in number, had invaded the territory of the United States, and attacked General Taylor. He -vvas told, that the American Squadron, under Commodore Conner, was blockad- ing the eastern coast, and he immediately sailed for Monterey, where he found the " Cyane" and "Levant." After an examination of the defences of the town, and completing his arrangements for capturing it, he sent Captain Mervine, on the Tth of July, to the governor of the town to demand its surrender, and on his declining to comply with the summons, it was taken by a detachment of two hundred and fifty seamen and marines from the vessels. Masters of the town, they speedily raised the American flag from the Custom-house, amid the cheers from the troops and bystanders, and a national salute from the squadron. A proclamation from the Commodore was then posted up, stating the existence of hostilities between Mexico and the United States, and his in- tention to take possession of all California. It also announced that, although the Commander-in-Chief came in arms, he came as a friend, and all the peaceable inhabitants of the country would be confirmed in the rights they then enjoyed, and have in addition the superior advantages afibrded to the people STATES. adron, Com- Vlazatlan, on six or seven the United old, that the vas blockad- OY Monterey, ' After an >mpleting his Mervine, on ) demand its he summons, fifty seamen J town, they ustom-house, ders, and a mation from existence of 3, and his in- 30 announced in arms, he itants of the enjoyed, and to the people r^rzdl Si So ■*— EV Tin: UNITE!) STATLS. 827 by the constitution and laws of tlie United States, under wliicli tliey might reasonably hope to advance and inii)rove ra])idly, both in commerce and agriculture. Such of the inhabitants as Avere disposed to live peaceably under the government of the United States, -svere to be allowed time to dispose of their property, and to leave the country, if they chose, -without any restriction, or to remain in it, in the observance of strict neutralitv. Tlic civil functionaries were desired to retain their offices, and preserve tranquillity ; and the people and clergy ■were assured of their being unmolested in their pro- perty, rights and possessions. Under the orders of the Com- modore, Captain Montgomery, with seventy sailors and marines of the United States sloop-of-war " Portsmouth," landed at the settlement of Yerba Buena, in the Bay of San Francisco, and took possession of that place. On the 11th of July, Captain Montgomery informed the Commodore that the American flag was flying at Yerbo Buena, at Sutter's Fort, at Bodega, and at Sonoura ; ;nid added, that the protection of persons and property, which the American flag promised to the land and the people, Avas hailed with joy. by the people, some of Avhom had ein'oUed themselves into a new company, under the auspices of the American officers, styled " The Volunteer Guards of Yerlja Buena." On the day on which he sent this communication to the Commodore, a British vessel of twenty-six guns, the '' Juno," arrived at San Francisco, and anchored. Captain Montgomery brought all his crew from the shore to the ship, with a view of defending his position, in case the English commander sliould think pro})er to interfere. The " Volunteer Guards of Verba Buena" took upon them- selves the task of dcrcnding the flag of the United States, assuring tho commandiv tlmt it should wave while a single man of their body lived to defend it. J3un Francisco Sandier, J the military commander of the district, promptly complied with the requisition of Captain Montgomery, that ho should come in and deliver up the arms and public property in his possession. He assured the American commander that he had no public property, but told ^vllere several guns were buried. Lieut. Missroon, of the *' Portsmouth," went to the Mission of Dolores, but found only a quantity of public documents, which were taken possession of and deposited in the Custom-house. On the 13th of July, at their own request. Commodore Sloat furnished a flag to the foreigners of the Pueblo of San Jose, a place about seventy miles distant from the coast, and about eighty miles from Monterey. He had just completed the organization of a company of thirty-five dragoons, made up of volunteers from the ships and citizens, to reconnoitre the country, and keep open the land-communication between the different places held by the Americans. Purser Fanntleroy was appointed to command this body, and Mr. McLane was appointed first-lieutenant. On the 17th, Mr. Fauntleroy re- connoitered as far as the Mission of St. John's, intending to capture that place and recover ten brass field-pieces, said to have been buried there by the Mexicans some time previously. On his arrival there, he found the gallant Captain Fremont together to already in possession, and the two returned Monterey, the head-quarters of the Commodore. Captain Fremont had left Washington in 1815, to make a third expedition, for scientific purposes, to the regions west of the Rocky Mountains, and his arrangements for the journey contemplated only its legitimate objects. He took no officer or soldier with him ; and the whole company which he led, consisted of only sixty-two men, engaged by himself as se- curity against the Indians, and for assistants in the duties of his mission. He approached the settlements in California, f ^f:^^ complied with lould come in is possession, ad no public ried. Lieut. Mission of iments, which stom-house. Commodore ^ueblo of San lie coast, and ust completed )ons, made up econnoitre the 1 between the er Fauntleroy . McLane was Fauntleroy re- s, intending to pieces, said to me previously, ptain Fremont 1 together to 45, to make a egions west of 3r the journey took no officer which he led, himself as se- L the duties of in California, BY THE UNITED STATES. 829 about the beginning of the year 1846 ; and, as he was aware of the difficulties existing between the United States and Mexico, he determined to be very circumspect in his conduct. He left his men on the frontiers, while he advanced alone a hundred miles to Monterey, where he visited the principal offi- cers of the Government, in company with the United States Consul and Navy Agent, Mr. Larkin. He informed them of his expedition, and its purposes, and Governor Castro gave him permission to pass the winter in the Valley of San Joaquin, where was feed for his horses and game for his men. Captain Fremont then returned to his men, and led them leisurely to the place designated, but he had hardly reached it, before he received orders from the Governor to leave the country. He was even threatened with forcible ejection, if he disobeyed the command. After the permission given him in person by Castro, Captain Fremont determined not to obey these uncourteous messages, and the Governor made great preparations to carry his threats into execution. Of these he was informed by Mr. Larkin, whom he answered by a letter, stating, that if Governor Castro brought against him an armed force, he should try to defend himself, though not one of his men had ever been a soldier. He, moreover, informed the Consul that he had hoisted the American flag, and he should keep it flying as the only protection he had to look to. On the 7th of March, and the three following days, he em- ployed himself in fortifying his position, by erecting a breast- work of logs and brush. The position of the Americans was on a high hill, whence they could see with their telescopes the preparations of the Governor, in his camp at the Mission of St. John's. Mr. Larkin now received another letter from Captain Fremont, and at the earnest request of the Alcadc, it was immediately translated into Spanish, and sent to the ;M 880 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA Governor. Here follows ji portion of the letter : — " I am making inyself as strong as possible, in the intention that, if we are unjustly attaeked, we will fiuht to extremity, and refuse quarter, trusting to our counti-y to avengti our death. No one has reached our camp ; and fi'om the heights we are able to see troops mustering at St. John's, and preparing can- non. I thank you for your kindness and good wishes, and would write more at length, as to my intentions, did I not fear my letter would be intercept(3d. We have in no-wise demo wrong to the people, or the authorities of the country, and if we are hemmed in and assaulted here, we will die, every man of us, under the flag of our country." Castro continued his preparations for an attack against our countrymen^ but he took special care not to crowd them too closely. Not wishing, however, to be the cause of embroiling his nation in difficulties, Captain Fremont determined to abandon his mission, and return to the United States, rather than con- tinue it against the opposition of the Mexican authorities. Accordingly, on the lOth of March, he left his encampment, and retired towards Oregon, followed some distance by the forces commanded by the Governor, which amounted to four hundred men. But the valiant General always avoided com- ing to an action, and on the same day returned to Monterey, bringing with him some old clothes and two or three pack- saddles, all thrown away as useless, when our people struck their tents. These were paraded as trophies, and the Gover- nor published a placard, in which he announced, that a band of highwaymen, under Captain Fremont, of the United States army, had come into his department, but that he had chased them out with two hundred patriots, and if they dared to show themselves again about Monterey, he would march out to ?r : — " I am iition tliat, if vtremit}', and ^e our (loath, lei^lits wc are •roparing can- :1 wishes, and did I not fear no- wise done mntry, jind if lie, ovevy man )k against our owd them too mbroiling his ed to abandon ther than con- n authorities, encampment, stance by the unted to four avoided com- to Monterey, r three pack- people struck id the Gover- , that a band United States e had chased dared to show march out to meet them, and destroy them to a man. About the middle of May, Captain Fremont arrived at the great Hamath Lake, in the Oregon Territory. He intended to return to the United States, by the Columbia and Missouri, through the northern pass in the Rocky Mountains ; but he found his pro- gress stopped by bands of hostile Indians, -who had been stirred up against him, particularly the Ilamath tribe, Avho killed and wounded several of his followers, in a night attack. Two days after, he had another fight with the same Indians, and destroyed one or two of their villages. It was in this engagement that Fremont saved Carson's life, as an Indian was about killing him. Captain Fremont now discovered that if he persevered in his route, he would have to fight almost every step of his way, besides marching over mountains on which the snow was still falling, and though he and his men were suffering from fatigue and famine, he remained for some days deliberating upon the proper course to pursue. From various sources he received information that Governor Castro was assembling troops, with the avowed object of at- tacking his party and all the American settlers, because, he alleged, the Captain had come for the purpose of inciting the settlers to revolt. With these facts before him, he at length determined upon the proper course to pursue, which was to turn back and act the offensive. On the 11th of June, he struck the first blow. At day-light on that day he surprised an officer and fourteen men on the way to the Mexican camp, with two hundred horses for Castro's army. The horses were retained, and the officer and the men released. At early dawn on the 15th, the military rendzevous and intended head-quarters was surprised by the Americans, who captured there nine pieces of brass oannon, two hundred and fifty muskets, and other arms and 1 1 1 1 832 CONQUEST vF CALIFORNIA ammunition, a general, a colonel, and many other officers. The gallant captain left a party of fourteen men here as a gar- rison, and i-epaired to the Rio de los Americanos, to obtain aid from the American settlers. While there an express arrived from Sonoma, with information of the approach of a large force under General Castro. He therefore immediately set out, with a force of ninety horsemen, armed with rifles, and traveled day and night. He reached Sonoma, after marcliing eighty miles, at two o'clock on the morning of the 25th of June. On the same morning, a squadron of seventy dragoons, the vanguard of Castro's force, crossed the bay, and were at- tacked and defeated by a party of twenty Americans, with the loss of only two men killed. Two of Captain Fremont's men were taivcn by the Mexicans, and cut to pieces alive with knive?. The Americans retaliated this cruel and cowardly act, by instantly shooting three of the enemy whom they had captured. Having cleared tlic north cide of the bay of San Francisco of the Mexicans, Captain Fremont called the Americans together at Sonoma, addressed them upon the dangers of their siUiation, and recommended, as their only means of safety, a declaration of independence and war upon Castro and his troops. The independence was declared, and the war followed. A few days afterwards, they heard of the taking of Monterey by the American Squadron, and the existence of the war. The Star-spangled Banner was promptly substituted for that of the Californian revolutionist. The valiant Castro fled south at the head of nearly five hundred men, well armed ; and Captain Fremont, leaving some fifty men in garrisons, pursued him with a hundred and sixty rifle- men. It was at tjiis stage of his proceedings that he met Purser Fauntleroy, and received Commodore Sloat's request that he would repair to Monterey. Tiiey arrived there on the t , her officers. 19tli of July. Soon after Coinraodore Sloat rc^ij^ned the com- mand of the naval forces to Commodore Stockton, and sailed for homo to recruit his healtli, which had been enfeebled by long and arduous services. This gallant and meritorious officer was highly applauded fur his course by the government, having observed the line of conduct prescribed by his instruc- tions, " with such intelligence and fidelity, that no complaint has ever been made of any anauthorized aggression on his part." Commodore Stockton commenced his part of the conquest by organizing the *' California J3attalion of Mounted Rifle- men," appointing their officers, and receiving them into the service of the United States. Captain Fremont was appointed Major, and lieutenant Gillespie, Captain of the battalion. Major Fremont suled with his battalion, in the United States ship " Cyane," for San Diego, in the hope of getting in ad- vance of General Castro, and cutting olf his retreat. He arrived at San Diego on the 29th of July, but the Californians had driven off all the horses, and consequently he was unable to move until the 8th of August, when he resumed his pursuit. Commodore Stockton meanwhile had sailed to San Pedro, where he landed three hundred and sixty of the sailors belong- ing to his ship, the frigate " Congress." With this sailor- army he commenced his march towards the camp of Meza, a strongly-fortified position held by General Castro, three miles from the City of t)ie Angels, and the capital of the Cali- fornians. On the approach of our gallant tars within sight of the Mexican camp, the General sliamcfully abandoned it and fled. His men followed his example, and ran away in all directions. Major Fremont joined the Coram.odore on the 13th of August, with eighty mounted riflemen, and the united forces entered the City of the Angels, and took possession of 334 CON(iUL:yT OF CALIFOKMIA tlic GuvcniiiicuUhoiist'. Oil ilie Idili, Major rrcinunt again sot uIV in i»iir.-,uiL <>{' ('a>l,ii), hut. il ^va.s .souii louiid that the vahaut (icvcnior l.a«i iiiach,' ^i^-ood his (.'scapo towanU the eitv ul" Ale.xieo. M()>t of liis ollicrrs, 1 low ever, were cai>tur('(l, and hii)U«iht lo ihc City »»!' the Angels, where C d( Stocktou had h ;tablish I nnni goverimient. The (A)Uini()d()re directed Major rrmiont to increase his force and I'osl it in j^arrisuns in llw dillVrent places : — Fifty Avere to he stationed in the City of tlie An;j;('l^ under Cap- tain (liUesijie, fii'ty at Monterey, lilty at San Francisco, and twentv-iive at Santa IJarbara. lie end>arked for San Francisco to recruit, niakin,^, in tlie meanwhile, a temporary disposition of his forces. lie t(H)k hut forty men with him, and nine of these he lei"t at Santa Barbara, in chai'ge of Lieutenant Talbot. During his absence, on the i23d of September, a Californian army invested the City of the Angels, and by their superior nund)ers caused Captain Gil- lespie to surrender that place. He returned with his thirty riflemen to San Pedro, and from there sailed for Monterey. The Californian Chief, Manual Caspar, then led two hun- dred of his men against Santa Barbara, but Lieut. Talbot and his nine men defended themselves with heroic courage. He held the town until he was completely besieged, and then refusing to surrender, I'ought his way through the enemy to the mountains of the vicinity, where he remained eight days, suflering from cold and hunger. A detachment of forty men advanced to take him, but was driven back. They then oftered to permit bim to retire, if he would pledge himself and hi to men ility during the war, but he sent word to the Mexican neuti Chief t neither force or persuasion would cause him to leave his posi- that ho preferred to fight. At length, finding that luiit again ' "ouiid that >(' towanls ivtT, were I 'Is, where ii'j; ii civil icroaso his , I's : — Fifty indcr Cap- L'rauciscd, 'd for Sail temporary men with t, in charge he 28(1 of ^ity of tlio aptain Gil- li his thirty • Monterey, d two hun- eut. Talbot )ic courage, d, and then e enemy to . eight days, f forty men thenofiered and his men the Mexicaii I finding that ive his posi- I tion, tliey set fire to tlie grass and hrush around him ann the loth tho )\\. They liad niil)er wounded lieir deiid and nown, but botli esthnate it at fled and sur- as he was ap- y and Stockton ary, and it was 111 Kearney and I attention. In at Monterey, 3n that station. joined General xttalion, Avhich reinforcements Californians, lie Mission of the country in llery, and was olonel Steven- , formed such re all disaffec- fork regiment I, under Lieu- t one hundred tates sloop-of- ', and aflfordcd n mod ore Shu- cc '■f'f' x/' mm ■ ii nrrt- J tr brick ordered the " Dale" to Guaymas. This embohlcned the cneray, who collected all their disposable force and marched against the little garrison. The battle "was begun o'n the morning of the 10th, at t^vo o'clock ; a loud roll of musketry, followed by shouts, gave the sleeping soldiers the first notice of the enemy's presence. The Americans stood to their posts amid a shower of bullets, although the night was so dark that they were unable to see the foe, except by the flashing of the musketry. They brought their artillery to bear in the direc- tion of the enemy's position, and a few discharges was followed by a complete silence. At day-light the enemy was seen to be posted on a hill near by, waiting until the women and children had been removed from the town to renew the attack. The garrison availed themselves of the pause to fortify the roofs of their quarters with bales of cotton. 'I'he enemy gained pos- session of the bushes surrounding the camp, and kept up a heavy fire from eight o'clock until night. All the stratagems of the garrison failed to induce them to come nearer, yet Colonel Burton lost only one man. In the afternoon the enemy entered the town, and destroyed the houses of all who h;id Ijcen favorabU:" to the Americans. On the 20th they dragged a piece of artillery on the most commanding site in the town. A hot fire then commenced on both sides, which resulted in tlie defeat of the Mexicans. Thev had six of their number killed and fuvty-four wounded, while the los's of Colonel Burton was only three men. After this repulse the enemy distributed themselves in the neighbor- hood, to cut off supplies from tlie Americans. Meanwhile a force of nearly four Inmdred of the insurgents vnarehed upon San Jose, Avhere Lieutenant Heywood of the navy was stationed with twenty men sind one nine-pounder. He was besieged for thirty djivs, hut he refused to surrender. 312 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA BY THE U. STATES. despite of tlih'st and faiulue. On tlic niglit of the second day, a grand assault was made. The leader of the Californians, Mejares, led forty men against the front of the post, ^vhilo more than a hundred men, with scaling-ladders, came upon the rear. The nine-pounder opened upon them, killed Mejares and three of his soldiers, and drove the remainder back in great disorder. A firing was kept up until morning, when two American whalers entered the harbor, the crews of which landed, and with this assistance Lieutenant Heywood soon put the enemy to Hight. In the month of October, the frigate " Congress" and the sloop-of-war " Portsmouth" captured the town of Guaymas, which was garrisoned by eight hundred efficient men. The country now became quiet, and by the terms of the treaty of peace between the two governments, the boundary line was made to run along the southern line of New Mexi- co to its westward termination, thence northwardly along the western line of New Mexico until it intersects the first branch of the river Gila, thence down the middle of said branch and of the said river until it empties into the Rio Colorado, follow- ing the division-line between Upper and Lower California to the ocean. Agreeably to this treaty the American forces abandoned the posts they held in Lower California. The discovery of Gold in the waters of the Sacramento and other streams, as also among the rocks and in the mountains, has drawn to the countrv thousands of emigrants from the United States and other parts of the globe, and it bids fair to become at an jarly day one of the most populous of the ter- ritories of the United States. STATES. c second (lav, Caiifornians, e post, while 3, carac upon illed Mcjaros ulcr back in ng, when two ws of which ood soon put , the frigate li" captured ight hundred terms of the he boundary ' New Mexi- ily along the first branch . branch and rado, follow- alifornia to :ican forces • amen to and mountains, s from the bids fair to of the ter- CIIAPTF.R XXIV. FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES. On the 2r)th of October I received orders to join the brig ''Oregon;" this vessel was purchased by Captain Wilkes after the loss of tlie " Peacock " for the sum of 0,000 dollars. S!ie was built in Baltimore, is of 170 tons burthen, was origi- nally named " Thomas Perkins," came out to the Sandwich Islands with an assorted cargo, and when purchased was lying at Astoria taking in a quantity of salmon. In a day or two after having been purchased, she was stripped, and her masts lifted and made several feet shorter, after which she pro- ceeded up to Vancouver, where she underwent some further alterations and repairs. After these changes were made. Captain Hudson repaired on board and took command, and on the 21st of September, she got under-way, in company with the "Porpoise," and dropped down to Fort George, (Astoria,) where she laid until the 12th of October, when she sailed for San Francisco. Captain Hudson then gave up the command, and repaired to the " Vinccnncs," and Lieutenant Overton Carr was ordered in his stead. October 31st. At 3.30 P. M. wc got under-way in com- pany with the "Vincennes" and tlie "Porpoise," and pro- ceeded to sea. The wind being a-head, we were compelled to beat, which afforded us a fine opportunity of seeing the Bay. In one of the stretches we stood on until our jib-boom almost touched the cliff on which tlie Precidio is situated. This was built by thu Spaiiiard.-i, and AvliiK' they rotjiined possession of the country was strun;^ly i'ui'Liiijd and well garrisoned. About T P. iVI., tlie iluod-tido begun to make, and we were compelled to let-go tlieanelior. During tlie iiiglit tlic weather was thick and disagreeable, and a he;ivy swell set in from the we ct ward. 'On the moj-ning of November 1st, we again tripped our anchor. At 11 discovered the " Vineennes" under sail on our starboard quarter, but soon lost sight of her from the density of the fog. Nor did we see anything of her until about 1 o'clock, when we observed both her and the " Porpoise" lying at smchor. We wore ship, and bore down for them, and when close a-board spoke with the " Vincennes.*' We then hove-to, and continued to remain so until about half-past 4, Avhen both vessels i)roceeded to sea, ourselves following in their wake. In commmiicating with the " \'incennes," we learned that she experienced a very uncomfortable night. Having anchored right over the bar, she felt the swell much more than either the " Poi-poise" or ourselves. She rolled almost gunwales under, and several seas broke on board, one of which swept away a portion of her bulwarks, and killed one of the crew. It is understood that we are bound to the Sand- wich Islands. On the (3th, the " Vincennes" and " Porpoise" parted company with us. On the 8tli, we passed over the })Osition of Cooper's Island, as given upon Arrowsmitli's Chart, but saw no indications of land. At noon our latitude was 25° 45' 6^)" north, longitude 132° 1()' 15" Asest. At 11 A. M. on tiie iDth, we reached Honolulu, where we found the reniiniuh'r of the S(|uadron. Our principal object in returning tj Hon ilu was, to fill )ssossion of lied. Liul we were tlie weather ill from the tripped our ider sail on er from the r until about " Porpoise" 11 for them, mies.*' We out half-past following in iccnnes," we table night, e swell much She rolled »n board, one ,nd killed one to the Sand- loise" parted oper's Island, ndications of rth, longitude ilu, where we u was, to fill up with provisions ard water. This bein*:^ accomplished, wo again spread our sai . \nd on the 22d of January we reached Singapore, where \ • found the United States frigate " Constellation," Commodore Kearney, and the sloop-of-war " Boston," Captain Long, forming the East India Sfjuadron. We communicated with both vessels, and received some late newspapers from tliem. The Island of Singapore is twenty- seven miles long, and from five to fifteen miles wide. It is separated from the penin- sula of Malacca by the Strait of Singapore, formerly followed by navigators, instead of the one which is no.v universally used. We were informed that the interior of the island is infested with tigers, and that it is a common thing for the in- habitants to be destroyed by them within a few miles of the town. Owing co these attacks, the Government has been in- duced to offer a premium of fifty dollars for every tiger that should be killed, and parties have been organized, which fre- quently go out to hunt these ferocious animals. The situation of the town* is low, for which reason it does not appear to advantage from the anchorage. It covers a great extent of ground, and many of the buildings are spacious, and buiit in the European style. The Governor's dwelling is situ- ated on the summit of a knoll which overlooks the city and harbor. In the rear of the Euroy* an buildings are the loca- tions of the Malay and Chinese quarters. The houses of the former are built on posts rising four or five feet above the ground. The object of this is to keep the houses dry during the rainy seasons, and to prevent reptiles and other noxious animals from entering them. As for the inhabitants, a more motley crowd in color and * The tow I boars Uie same name as the islauj. 846 OBSERVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES. costume Ciumot well be conceived. Tlie lanf]juage of nearly every Asiatic nation tlirows its peculiar accents on tlie ear. The trades, like most of the eastern cities, are carried on in the streets. Some of the streets are exclusively inhabited by castes "vvho "work at the same trade. In one may be seen the workmen in brass and co})per, which department of trade generally embraces the manufacture of cooking-pans, lamps, and drinking vessels, and similar articles of domestic use ; for all these things are made of copper and brass, and hammered out to the proper size and shape by manual labor. In another street, you see the palankeen builders, house-joiners, cabinet- makers, shoemakers, tailors, blacksmiths, and so on. The money-changers take up their position at the corner of the streets, with their little tables before them ready to transact business at a moment's notice. These men act sometimes in the capacity of pawnbrokers, by lending small sums of money upon the gold and silver ornaments which all here possess in a greater or less degree. The opium vender has also his little table in the public street, with his box and scales upon it, and tempting samples of the " dreamy drug." This fearful species of intoxication is more generally prac- tised among the people of ]3ritish India, than has been com- monly supposed. Tlie Mohammedans are particularly addicted to its use, and much of the apathy and indifference observable in the native character, may be attributed to this universal evil, which would seem to be daily gaining ground among them. Few can be surprised that the Emperor of China is so anxious to prevent the importation of opium* into his do- * Tlio cnafrosFinsT taste of all ranks mid degrees in Cliina, for opium, a dr\ig whose Importation l.a-i of Jale years exceeded the aggregate value of i\ery oilier Knglish import coniliinod, deserves some particular notice, especially in connection with the revenues of Brififh India, of which it forms an important item. The use of this pernicious narcotic lias liecot.ie as exlensive as the increasing demand for it was rajud from the i\'-t — Cliini'st Rejiositorij. ES. OBSERVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES. 347 of nearly 1 tlie ear. irried on in tiliabited by ay be seen nt of trade ms, lamps, tic use ; for 1 hammered In another 3rs, cabinet- [) on. The rner of the to transact ometimes in IS of money e possess in ilso his little ipon it, and lerally prac- 3 been com- rly addicted 3 observable is universal mnd among of China is into his do- opium, a drug of rw cry oilier y in connection ant item. The ireasing demand minions by the Englii^h. Well might this monarch regard that potent drug as a curse to a iiiition, -which has already begun to suffer from its dangerous seduction, and which sho^vs for it a decided taste. A single glance of these opium dealers will convince you tliat they are their own best customers. Their soiled and dis- orderly dress, the palsied hand and pale cheek, the sunken eye and vacant stare of each of these wretched men, show you that they are not themselves. The Chinese Bazaar is filled with goods manufactured in that industrious country. Here you may purchase beautiful Canton shawls, for fifteen or twenty dollars, rich silks an( rscjn talking in the dark — it is all thrown away." 'J'he exteiit to which they carried ^^aining, after the regular husiness jiours W( re ovei-, could not fail to attract our atten- tion. Gaming was going on in all their shops and houses, and tlieij- whole soul seemed to he spiked ^^ "th their money. The}' use cards .ind dice; hut tluMr • v: • are different from our owri. 'I'he stake in general Wf ■ •; 'nail copjter coin, not larger than a, diuM'. It was also ooserve i 'hat th.ey arc pas- sionately fond of tlieatrical enttrtainnu^nts. These take place under a teni])orary slied, which is only large enough to accom- modate the performers, 'i he interior is decorated ■with silk hangings, and illuminated with many colored lamps. The stage is furnished with a t;ihle and cliairs, hut without scenical decorations to assist the storv, as in our theatres. The actors are iriagnificently dressed in silk and g'id cloth, adorned with jewels. 'J'he females are represented hy young men. I cannot say much for the acting, or music ; tlie former appeared stifi' he latter a perf(>ct jargon. Oi day I visited their principal Josh-house, or temple. It is a verv singular-lookirig edifice ; the roof is surmounted ■with dragons, and a thousand of othej- whimsical devices. The columns supporting the front are likewise very curiously sculptured. It has no windoMS ; and the main entrance, in- stead of heing in the centre of the building, is near one of the corners. Its interior may be descrilxd as a square court, sur- rounded by a portico filled with niches, containing the wooden images to which adoration is paid. The space in the centre of the court is paved and furnished with seats, which are occupied by the worshipers. All the idols are representations of the human form \r its most brdky aspect; they seemed to )IES. OnSF:RVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES. 349 '(', lie is like s all thrown r the rcfrular t our Jitten- housos, and oncy. Thoj- it from our <'r coin, not .ey ai'o pas- se take place and perpendicular like a wall, dotted lure and there with miserably stunted trees. The isliind was discovered by the Purtuj^uese on the 21st of iMay, in the year J502, and was called by them St. Helena, from the fact that the same day was the anniversary of tliC Kmpress Helena, a Saint in the Roman Catholic calendar. In a valley, where they found a [iroduetive soil and abun- dance of excellent water, the discoverers planted a .small colony; they also stocked the vall/y with <;oats, horses, cattle, and many other animals useful to man, which soon nmiiiplied and spread over the whole island. About the year lli,")!, the Eni^lisli East India Cum[)any took possession of the island, it having been abandoned some time before by the Dutch, who took it from the Portuguese in the early part of the iTtli centuj-y. The English introduced hito the island, as the Portuguese had done before them, horses, sheep, grains and fruits. Tempting inducements wero held out to emigrants, and many were induced to settle in its rich and romantic valleys. In 1813, tlie island becamt; the involunt;iry residence of Napoleon, a circumst: terest, and renr by way of l>aying her for seeing the Tomb, and we were not slow in taking the hint. Each of us filled a quart bottle with the precious li([uid, for which she received several dollars. We had also to satisfy the demands of the garrulous old sergeant who exhibits the Tomb, so that alto- gether it was expensive sight-seeing. The old fellow's account, rattled off as it was by him, anmsed me nuieh, and I took care to write it down on the spot. The following is a correct copy of ibe « ^'iginal : — '' Misters^ how d'ye do I Fine day to see siglils, gentlemen. Well, misters, here's the railing round the ground, and there's the paling round the tomb, eight feet deep, six feet long, and three feet wide. Napoleon was buried in three collins, one in another — his head was here — his feet was there ; he was dressed in a green coat, Avhite breeches, and jack-boots — beau- tifully pol'ohed, with his cocked hat between his legs, and his heart in a eiher pot at his feet. All the island came to the funeral, and the soldiers tired a royal salute. These are not the willers that L;iv.> been taken r way, but I have got some elips from the . ca'i eroe in charge of my good woman — will you --J "V ibll 10 NAPOLKON S TOMIl. ^SAt 3 s])rii»^HL'ar ) tlio (lay of j the f:;rouii(ls» itU'ul vi>l)biy (I, uikI drank lul (lelifious ; wml to obtain e t*;iv(U' was \)re about the s to })vircbase uif the Tomb, h of us filled h she rocoivi'd Muands of tlio p so that alto- ^vas by bim, down on the V.,' . vminal : — ivrf, gentlemen, md, and there's feet long, and ; coffins, one in there; he was ;lv-boots— beau- is legs, and his id came to the These are not have got some ,oman— will you — 'A'l <\>uu» ;nid look at thcni, misters '( Tlu-y are tlic best, tliat can be had, mister. That's a fine one; yes, indeed, b'ill grow — stick him in this bottle ; its worth two sliillings, ;iiiy man's money, but you may liavc it for one. Hum ! tliaiik you, mis- ter, and (lod bless you, and all like you. 'I'his is tlie s))ring, and that's the water; here's a. mug lo taste; oh I it is cool, just as Napoleon useresent time. Here's the Visitors' IJook, what they write tiieir nan\es in- -here, this way, in the sentry-box — liere's the ink, and there's ti»e pen ; phrase to write your name, all you gentlemen — A -hem ! — it is full of i)oetry in ;iil kinds of lingoes. See, inisters, for yourself. I once could rea last is occupied by a huge winnowing machine, an.i was str' wed with chaff and straw. The apartment in which he hild in state after his death, is now used as a stable. The iibrarv serves as a hen-house, and we found it filled wiTa einckei.s and turkeys. His bed-room, like all the rest- "'.« sadly dilapidated, and the window which lighted it is boarded up. Taken altogether, it is a pil'j of with clumps the cx-Em- L-icd life, the icd, and, ere y will be left luilt of wood, cllised porch r two wooden ;raKS, and the nitials, dates, j ■ars an ex ten- < on the spot ; they were !y had served, Emperor and c and ride at t otlr without rvation-towers e from Long- At dusk they ided by sen- all and badly alls scribbled The room in )ied by a huge aff and straw. T his death, is hen-house, and His bed-room, 3 window which it is a pile of I universal ruin, doomed, as 1 have before observed, at no distant time to entirely disappear. There arc no traces remaining of the gardens, but the little-fish pond is still in tolerable preservation. It is asserted that before the Emperor's own earthly career was closed, all the fishes sickened and died, and that the incident deeply afTectcd him, for he sought amusement in attending them himself, and watching their gambolings. When the last little favorite was gone, he exclaimed, " Yes, everything I love, everything that belongs to me is immediately struck. Heaven and mankind unite to alUict me." Not many paces distant from the crumbling and deserted building we have been describing, may be seen the new resi- dence built for the use of Napoleon. It is constructed of yellow sand-stone, one story in height, and stands on the de- clivity of a gently sloping hill. The house is much larger and more convenient than the old one ; but he took a strong dislike to it, and would never occupy it. The grounds arc rather pretty, and the whole is surrounded with a neat stone- wall, surmounted by an iron-railing. It was the sight of these w\alls and iron-rails that c^avo the Emperor such disgust for the new residence ; for, he said they would constantly remind him he was a prisoner-of-war. We found the building occu- pied by Lieutenant Smith, of the Artillery, who had charge of the Magnetic Observator) . It may be intcrestini!: to add to this description the follow- ing particulars. Napoleon and his suite arrived at St. Helena on the loth of October, 1815, under charge of Admiral Cock- burn. It is stated tlie island was first suggested as a suitable place of confinement for the fallen Emperor by the Duke of Wellington ,,>( who had been there himself, and was forcibly impressed with its natural strength. :;^, J t w • o ST. HELENA. TminediatL'ly tlic royul captive was deiivored over to Sir Hucison Lowe, who was made responsible for his security. This ofiicer received all his orders relative to the treatment of iNapoleon from tlie ministry, and was not allowed to exer- cise any discretion in the execution of them. On the 5th of May, 1821, the great man departed this life; his body was subjected to a post mortem' examination, and it was discovered t^'-t he died of cancer of the stomach. He expired amidst a tempest of wind and rain. ' Dark was the nij^ht, find wiUl the storm, Ami loiul the torrents ruar ; And loud the sea was heard to dash Against the distant shore." Many trees were laid prostrate by the storm, and among the rest his favorite willow, beneath whose shade he often sat reading, or wrapt up in meditation. On the 9th of May, he was buried with military honors. It was his dying wish to repose in France. After a lapse of nearly twenty years his inquest was complied with ; England then gave her consent to his removal, and the frigate " Belle Poule," under the command of Prince Joinville, was dis- patched to St. Helena by the French Government to fulfill the mission. Among the men that accompanied the Prince, were four Avho were devoted friends of the Emperor, and lived ■with him in his captivity — ^"Marchand, Gourgaud, Las Casses, and Bertrand. After the coffin was disinterred, it was conveyed to a tent prepared for its reception. There it was opened, and the mortal remains of Napoleon were found unchanged. He seemed asleep, so perfect were all his features. His old friends beheld him there just as they had placed him some )vcr to Sir j| s security. !i i treatment :, ed to exer- I'd this life; ition, and it ach. , and among he often sat tary honors. )Y a lapse of h; England gate "Belle le, was dis" ?nt to fulfill . the Prince, or, and lived Las Casses, >'ed to a tent icd, and the banged. He s. His old cd him some ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK. 868 twenty years before ; and it is almost impossible for language to describe their emotion. They kissed the coftin again and again, and streams of tears flowed down their cheeks. Amid the roar of guns and other martial honors *-he body was embarked, and on the 18th of October, 1840, the " Belle Poule " weighed her anchors, and sailed for France. On the arrival of the frigate at Brest, the body was con- veyed to Paris, and there reinterred beneath the Tomb of the Invalides. From St. Helena we proceeded to Rio Janiero. Here we remained several days, during which we replenished our stock of water and provisions. Leaving Rio Janeiro, we shaped our course for New York, where w^ arrived on the 3d of July, after having been absent from home and friends three years and eleven months. ^1 ' r ?, . '. .^i \- { I K^ I V. / "f ■l< ■> f TTT- =51 J <^ I . — j IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■ 50 "^~ 125 ■ " n.6 ■ 2.2 ii 1-25 i 1.4 m WV^ '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation m d \ V \\ [v *» -* ^ v%1^\ 4S '^1 '^.1* ^^^' 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '^ •^p Commercial Regulations, made by the principal Chiefs of the Samoa Group of Islands, after full consideration in Council, on the 5th day of November, 1839. — Printed at Samoa Group of Islands, 1840. Article 1st. All Consuls duly appointed, and received in Samoa, shall be protected, both in their persons and property, and all foreigners obtaining the consent of the government, and conforming to the laws, shall receive tlie protection of the government. Article 2d. All foreign vessels shall be received into the ports and harbors of Samoa, for the purpose of obtaining supplies, and for commerce ; and with their oflicers and crews, BO long as they comply with these regulations, and behave themselves peaceably, shall secure the protection of the Gov- ernment. Article 3d. The fullest protection shall be given to all foreign ships and vessels which may bo wrecked ; and any property saved, shall be taken possession of by the Consul of the country to which the vessel belong?, who will allow a sal- vage, or portion of the property so saved, to those who may aid in saving, and protecting the same, and no embezzlement will be permitted under any circumstances whatever. The effects of all persons deceased, shall be given up to the Consul of the nation to which they may have belonged, 3G8 APPLNDIX. Article 4tli. Any person guilty of the crime of murder, upon any foreigner, shall be given up ^vithout delay to the Commander of any public vessel of the nation, to Avhich tie deceased may have belonged, upon his demanding the same. Article oth. Every vessel shall pay a Port-charge of five dollars, for anchorage and water, before she will be allowed to receive refreshments on board ; and shall pay for pilotage in and out, the sum of seven dollars before she leaves the harbor ; and pilots shall be appointed, subject to the approval of the Consuls. Article Gth. No work shall be done on shore, nor shall any natives be employed on board vessels on the Sabbath day, under a penalty of ten dollars, unless under circumstances of absolute necessity. Article 7th. All trading in spirituous liquors, or landing the same, is strictly forbidden. Any person oflfending, shall pay a fine of twenty-five dollars, and the vessel to which he belongs shall receive no more refreshments. Any spirituous liquors found on shore sliall be seized and destroyed. Article 8th. All deserters from vessels will be appre- hended, and a rewar.d paid, of five dollars, to the person who apprehends him; and three dollars to the Chief of the dis- trict in which he may be apprehended, shall be paid on his delivery to the proper officer of the vessel. No Master shall refuse to receive such deserter, under a penalty of twenty-five dollars. Deserters taken after the vessel has sailed, shall be delivered up to the Consul, to be dealt with as he may think fit. Any person Avho entices another to desert, or in any way assists him, shall bo subject to a penalty of five dollars, or one month's hard labor on the public roads. Article 9th. No Master shall land a passenger without permission of the Government under a penalty of twenty-five le of murder, delay to the , to ^Yhicll tie \g the same. -charge of five be allowed to for pilotage in es the harbor ; jproval of the hore, nor shall J Sabbath day, cumstances of ors, or landing oflfending, shall el to which he Any spirituous oyed. will be appre- the person who ief of the dis- 3e paid on his \o Master shall f of twenty -five sailed, shall be 3 he may think , or in any way five dollars, or ssenger without y of twenty-five m :=.=li dollars, and no individual yluiU be permitted to linid or reside on the Samoa Group of Islands, without the special permission oi" the Government. Any one so landing, sliall bo compelled to leave by the first opportunity. Articlp: 10th. If a sick person be left on shore from any vessel, for the recovery of his health, he shall be phiccMl under charge of the Consul, who shall be responsible for liis sick expenses, and will send him away by the first opportunity after his recovery. Article 11th. Any seaman remaining on shore after 9 o'clock at night, shall be made a prisoner until the next morning, when he shall be sent on board, and shall pay a penalty of five dollars. Article 12th. All fines to be paid in specie, or its equi- valent, or be commuted by the Government, at the rate of one month's hard labor on the public roads for five dollars. Article 13th. Should the Master of any vessel refuse to comply with any of these regulations, a statement of the case shall be furnished to the nation, or the Consul of the nation to which he belongs, and redress sought from thence. Article 14th. All Magistrates, or Chiefs of districts, where vessels or boats may visit, shall enforce the rules and regulations relative to the landing of foreigners and appre- hension of deserters, or pay such fine as the Malo shall impose. Article 15th. For carrying into effect the foregoing rules and regulations, the Chiefs and tula fale of the respec- tive districts, shall meet and elect one of their number to act as Magistrate or Judge, to execute the laws. Article 16th. These regulations shall be printed, pro- mulgated, and a copy furnished to the master of each vessel visiting these Islands. 870 APPENDIX. Similar regulations were adopted by the Fejee Chiefs, omitting the Gth, 9th, 10th, 12th, and 15th Articles, and signed by the following chiefs : — Their Ro X TANG A, Ro X TUIDREKETl Philips X Cokanauto, Ro X NAVUNIVALU, Ro X KOROITIUSAVAU, Ro X QUARANIGIO, Marks. Their Ro X MATANABABA, Ro X VEIBALIYAKI, Ro X LIGALEVU, Ro X KALAI, Ro X VAKACOKAI. Marks. Done in Council by the principal Kings and Chiefs of the Fejee Group, this 10th day of June, 1840. I'he foregoing Rules and Regulations having been signed by the Kings and Chiefs in my presence, and submitted to me, I consider them just and proper, and shall forward to the American Govern- ment a copy of the same for the information of all masters of vessels visiting the Fejee Group of Islands. (Signed) Charles Wilkes, Commanding U. States Exploring Expedition. U. S. ship " Vincennes," Harbor of Ban, June 10th, 1840. In presence of Wm. L. Hudson, commanding U. S. ship " Peacock," Commander Ringgold, commancing U. S. brig " Porpoise," R. R. Waldron, U. S. Navy, B. Vanderford, Pilot. Fejee Chiefs, Articles, and ANABABA, BALIYAKI, \LEVU, AI, ACOKAI. Chiefs of the 'J'he foregoing the Kings and consider them Tican Govern- of all masters ILKES, U. States ng Expedition. Peacock," g " Porpoise," APPENDIX. 871 Names of the persons composing the Expedition to Alta California : — Lieutenant Emmons, Passed Midshipman Eld, Passed Midshipman Colvocokessls, " Assistant-Surgeon Whittle, J. R. Peale, Naturalist, J. D. Dana, Geologist, W. R. Rich, Botanist, A. J. Agate, Artist, J. D. Brackenridge, Assistant-Botanist, Sergeant Stearns, Corporal Hughes, Privates Smith and Marsh, Doughty, Sutton, Merzer, and Waltham^ Seamen, Baptist Guardipi, Guide, TiBBATs, Black, Wood, Warfield, Molan, and Inass, Hunters, Mr. Walker and family, emigrating to California, Mr. Barrows, wife and child, do. do. Mr. Nichols, Mrs. Warfield and child. The whole party numbered thirty-nine, with seventy-six animals, thirty-two of which were Government property. The dealings of God, Man, and the Devil ; as exemplified in the Life, Kxperiencc, and Travels of Lorenzo Dow, in a period of over half a century. Together with his Poleniio and Miscellaneous Writings, com- plete. To which is added, THE VICISSITUDES OF LIFE. By Peggy Dow. " Many shall run to n»,(l fro, and knowledge shall be increased." — David. With an Introduttory E:'Say, by the Rev. John Dowlino, D.D., of New York, author of History of Romanism^ &c. Two volumes in one, Svo., 350 pages. Embo.ssed binding, embel- lished with Steel Portraits of Lorenzo and Peggy Dow. Price $2.50. One ninntli he vronld bo heard of lalifjviiipc for the j^ood nf souls, in his own peculiar way, in tiic neighborhood of his native >iew England liome ; the next, perhaps, braving tlie fro«it and siinw of a Canadian winter ; tlie ne.Kt, on his way to Ireland or to England, in the prosecution «of the same benevolent purpose; and si.K numths afterwards, perhaps, encountering the dangers anil hardships oi a (ienrgijt or Kentucky wilderness, or fleeing for his life from the tomahawk or the hoalping-knife of the Indian savage, in the then untrodden wilds of tlie great Valley of the West. Pale, sallow, and somewhat consumptive in the nppearnnce (jf his countenance; dressed in the plainest attire, with his single-breaste