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Official Guide, m^ « « « from niaaara to tbe Sea CDe finest Inland mater Crip in tbe ttlorld. r^ •THu$trated« -^ 'c^ £^tO^ Issued by the Passenger Department of the i^ Richelieu ^ Ontario navigation Company. 22$ $t. Paul Street, montreal. -•//- Desbarats ^ €o. engravers, Printers and Publishers, montreal. 247823 OFFICERS Richelieu and Ontario Ddvidaiion eompany. Hon. L. J. FoKGiiT, President. C. 1'. C.ii.DKRSi.HKVK, General Manager. H. M. Hoi.r.KR, Secretary, J. A. \ii,ij:.\kivk, Accountant and Treasurer. (".HOKC.K A. Brown H, Traffic Manaf^er. H. 1m)STi:r Chai-i-kh. A,v:ent, Montreal. J. I'. Doi.AN, A^ent, Toronto. J. I'. IlAM.KN-, A^s:cnt, Kingston. I.. H. MvRANi), Agent, Qucln-c. « Kntered. iicvoniing to Act of the I'ailiament of Caiia.la, in tlie year iHcjS, l.y W.M. A. Dksiiarats, at tlie IJepartment cf Agriculture. This gui.ie is pri.ite.l upoi> " I'hoto Book '• paper, specially made l.v tht Canada I'aper Company, Montreal and Toronto. MtTt', side l)y side, tile Did and NfW Has encli a iliariii spread nut lo view; I'tom wtu'M' Nia^aia's lliiitiders roar Hy siarjx-d olilV and liowiiiiiK sliori? ; III lertilf ("udds and islatiil jjrovcs, Hy windiii;{ strraiiis and wrinkled cuves, Ml haunts of jdeasur*; K''>y with life. In scenes of ptace and ancieiu strife. from Diagara to tk Sea. nOWUKRK on the continent of North America is there a more picturesque region than that which lies between Niagara and the sea. Niagara itself is one of the won- ders of the world, with a fascination for all, and it is so easily reached from all directions that it is usually first visited by tourists who are desirous of seeing this greatest of Nature's marvels, and "doing" the grand tour of the famed Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence. From all points south of the international boundary there is direct railway communication ; nearly all the trunk lines of the United States converging at this great gateway to the tourists' paradise. Commencing at the Falls of Niagara, on the southern shore, then crossing Lake Ontario by steamer, or rounding its west- ern extremity by rail, to Toronto, the Queen City of the West ; t-mbarking on one of the steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company, following the course of the lake, past the romantic waters of the Bay of Quinte, to Kingston, thence down the St. Lawrence, threading in and out of the Thousand Lslands into the open stretch to Lake St. Francis, shooting the rapids, stopping over at Montreal and Quebec, and finally reaching the crowning glory of all, the incom- ])arable grandeur of the Saguenay River. Before civiliza- tion had changed the aspect of North America, Diagara the gran- Tall$. deur of Niagara was known to the in- habitants of the Old World; and Wliirlpool Kai)ids. NiM!,'aia 1'mIIs. 6 /•>(>; 7 Ninji>; It) io Narii^ation Ciy. Host re's hen i ans. med days us of access was a narrow Ituiian path, but lon^^ before the majesty of the scene burst upon the spectator, the ruinl)linK ami crasliin^r of its waters was heard, increasing with every step. No wonder that, to the Indian. \iaj;ara was sacred, or tliat at stated periods pilgrim- ages were made to projjitiate its an^er. As an ofTeritiR to the wratliful deity, a beautiful yoini^ girl was yearly bound fast in a canoe, and then set adrift in the rapids, while sinj;ers chanted lier death-son^^ till her frail bark was swept over the cataract, and swallowed up in the foam and spray beneath. Time also has left its impress on this inexplicable wonder. Slowly but surely the massive granite is being worn awa\ by the unceasing turmoil of the waters, and, in 1850, a large portion of the Table Kock was precipita- ted into the gulf with a crash that was heard miles from the .scene. Perhaps the best description that has ever been written is from the pen of Charles Dickens : — " At length we alighted ; and for the first time I heard the mighty rush of water, and felt the ground tremble underneath my feet. The bank is very steep, and was slippery with rain and half-melted ice. I hardly know how I got down, but I was soon at the bottom, and climbing, with two Ivtiglish officers who were crossing and had joined me, over some broken rocks, deafened by the noise, half blinded by the spray, and wet to the skin. We were at the foot of the American Fall. I could see an inimen.se torrent of water tearing headlong down from .some great height, but had no idea of .shape, or situation, or anything but vague immensity. When we were seated in the little ferry-boat, and were crossing the swollen river immediately before the cataracts. I began to feel what it was ; but I was in a manner stunned, and unable to comprehend the vastness of the scene. It was not until I came on Table Rock and looked — great Heaven, on what a fall of bright green water ! that it came victoria I'nrk, NiitR.Tra Falls. 8 /''rom Niai>ani to the Sea. upon mu in its full \\\\<^\\\ and majesty. Then. vvIkmi I felt how near to my Creator I was standing, the first effect, and the entlurin^^ one- instant and lastinj; of the tremendous spectacle, was Peace. I'eace of mind, tramiuility, calm recollections of the dead. j;reat thou};hts of eternal re.st and happiness : nothinj; of j.(loom or terror. Niaj;ara was at once stamped upon my heart, an ima^e of lieauty ; to remain there changeless and indelible, until its pulses cease to heat forever. .11] raj cap ll[ ad thi cal th N. F. 1'. iV K. Ry Station ;it Oueeiistoii, opposite Lewistoii, Urock's Moininieiil in tlie Distance. Oh, how the strife and trouble of daily life receded from my view and lessened in the distance, during the ten memorable days we passed on that enchanted ground ! What voices spoke from out the thundering water ; what faces, faded from the earth, looked out upon rae from its gleaming depths ; what heavenly promise glistened in those angels' tears, the drops of many hues, that showered around. The Nil hi /it' K &" Onitnio Na:iiiialio>i Co. • near DHL' — 1 'eace uy;lit.s a^ara •inaiii rever. itid twinL'd thfinse)- \lu)ut the >;()rj»eons arches whirh lliechaiiv^itiK rai nl)()\v lew we the out ned nd, s made. 'i'o wander to and Iro all daw and see the (\itaraet.s Iroin all points of view, to stand upon the ed^e of the ^reat Horse shoe l'"all. marking; tin* hurried water i;atherinn strength as it approached the verge, yet seeming, too, to pause helbre it shot into the gull helow ; to ga/e Irom the river's level up at tlie torrent as it came streaming down : toclimh tiie neigid)oring heights and watch it through the trees, and see the wreathing water in the rapids hurry- ing on to take its fearful plunge ; to linger in the shadow ol the solemn rocks three miles helow; watching the liver as, stirred l)y no visihle cause, it heaved and eddied and awoke the echoes, being troubled yet, far down beneath the surface, by its giant leap ; to have Niagara before nie. lighted by the sun and by the moon, red in the day's decline, and grey as evening slowly fell upon it ; to look upon it every day, wake up in the night and hear its ceaseless voice : this was enough. I think, in every quiet season now, still do these waters roll and leap, and roar and tumble, all day long; still are the rainbows span- ning them, a hundred feet below. Still, when the .sun is on them, do they shine and glow like molten gold. Still, when the day is gloomy, do they fall like snow, or .seem to crumble away like the front of a great chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white smoke. Hut always does the mighty sueam appear to die as it comes down, and always from its unfathomable grave ari.ses that tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is never laid ; which has haunted this place with the .same dread solemnity since darkness brooded on the deep, and that first flood before the deluge— light- came rushing on creation at the word of God." Since the memorable visit of Dickens, the immediate vicinity of the Kails has heeii transformed, lieautiful parks form an agreeal)le setting to Nature's work. Motels have l)een erected and bridges Spot where Sir Is.iju' Ilrock ['"I'll, ;il oinfiisldii UtiKlits. lO From Niagara to the Sea. span the river. The rej^ion of the Falls, above and below, presents a series of delightful pictures that will claim the leisure of the visitor. One of the most picturesque spots, though comparatively seldom explored by tourists, lies between the Whirlpool and yueenston. The Niagarr Falls Park and River Iviectric Railway affords an excellent opportunity of seeing the principal points of interest at a very moderate outlay. From Chippewa it closely follows the course of the river to Queenston, parsing the Falls, the Whirlpool, and all the most picturesque and interesting spots of this region. Leaving Niagara, it is a short journey, either by rail or electric car, to , , .^ the historic village of Queenston. The country Brock $ inonuincnt. , . , , • • ^- r^ ^^ here is particularly interesting. On the eminence is the monument erected by Canad;i in honor of Sir Isaac Brock, who fell during an engagement with the American troops on the 13th of October, 18 12. From the gallery at the top of the column, reached by a spiral stairway, a fine panoramic view is obtained. On the opposite shon is the American village of Lewiston, and from the gorge above is seen the river as it comes foaming down, eager to end its struggles in the calm repose of the bay into which it spreads it.self, sweeping on in serene grandeur to merge into the waters of Lake Ontario. Niagara-on-the-Lake is twelve miles from the Falls — the sur- roundings are full of varied and historical interest — and possesses a really fine hotel in the Queen's Royal, under the same management as the Queen's Hotel of Toronto. It has become a very popular summer resort. From Niagara we embark on one of the elegant steamers of tiie Niagara Navigation Company. These steamers run from Queenston ( )ii Toronlo Uav. presents : visitor. seldom 2enston. ords an ■est at a e course and all Leaving car, to countrj- tninence ck, who : r3th of reached On the rom the iager to spreads waters of the sur- isesses a igement popular s of tiie [eenston L^^ i The Richelieu & Ontario Navij^ation Co. n down the Niagara River and across Lake Ontario. The sail occupies about three hours, and constitutes an ideal afternoon's outing. On Tort niaaara ^^^^ American point is Old Fort Niagara, which played an important part in the early history of the country. It was here that La Salle erected a palisaded .store-house in 1678, when he was building the " Griffin," the fir.st vessel, with the exception of a birch-bark canoe, ever launched on Lake Krie. This store-house, yiieeii's Royal Hotel, NiaKara-oii-tlie-I -^ KI ■•^0^ pwps ^ "^ i^^ ^ r- . , \jr^ ^1 i Coronto. Toronto is beautifully situated on the north shore of Lake Ontario — the social, liter- ary and educa- tional centre of the Do- minion, and one of the largest and most pros- perous of its commercial centres. With environ- ments of lovely natural scenery , ornamented with picturesque public parks, elegant and costly public buildings and private residences, and hundreds of stately edifices, Toronto rightly pre-empts the title of " Queen City of Canada," and to it annually is attracted that vast and largely increasing brotherhood whose quest is pleasure. Few cities in the world are more admirably adapted for a summer resort than Toronto. Its situation on the lake, in the very heart of the temperate zone, is unsurpassed. It has a mild and equable climate, which renders the summer days pleasant. The average temperature in summer is between io° and 20° hotter than that of the resorts of North Carolina and Florida in winter, and between 10° and 20° cooler than the temperature of those states in summer, while the elevation above the sea is about the same, and there is little rTOVcnuiieiit House, Toioiilo ; Residence of the IJeiitetiaiU-Ciovernoi . Triiiily CoUcne, 'Poronto. The Richelieu C~ Ontario Naviiratiou Co. i;, difference in humidity. The temperature is very near that of Denver, save that there is a greater daily variation in the latter city. The site of this pleasant city, in the middle of the last century, was a trackless wilderness, the only inhabitants being a powerful tribe of Indians. In 1749, under the government of France, a trading pest was established, bearing the name of Fort Rouille ; not long after, the country P passed into the hands of the British, and we do not hear much of what took place at Fort Rouille un- til 1793, and there seems to have been httle change during the next half century. In 1792 Lieut. -Governor Simcoe arrived in the colony from England, and established his government at Niagara. Dur- ing the following year, being dis- satisfied with the location of his quarters, he set forth to select from the vast domain under his rule a site on which to establish a permanent seat of government worthy of the territory it was to represent. He had not far to seek, nor has the wisdom of his choice since been questioned. Crossing the lake, he was attracted by the advantages of the bay, as forming a natural harbor capable of meeting the greatest demands of commerce, advantages which had probably led the FVench to adopt it as a trading post, fifty years before, in opposition to the Ivnglish post on the Oswego. Momiiiient in Queen's I'ark, Toronto, erected to Ri( leeway \'oluntoers. '4 From Niof^ara to tir Sea. On landing, vSitucoe pitched his tent near the shore, and soon a large body of men were clearing the forest and cutting roads. vSimcoe named the city York, and remained for several months superintending the dexelopment of the infant capital. The first road that was cleared was Vonge street, connecting the seat of government with the Holland River, and opening up the waterway to the West. The residence of the Governor and Parliament buildings were established near the shore, and from this date, 1793, the city of York takes its birth. There is little left in Toronto or in the neighborhood sug- gestive of its early history : the principal feature that recalls its memory is a massive granite boulder in the Queen's Park, bearing this inscription : Tins CAIRN MARKS THK ICXACT SlTlv OK FORT ROUir.LE, COMMONIA' KNOWN AS FORT TORONTO, AN INDIAN TRADINC, POST AND STOCKADK, HSTAHLISHKD A. I). 1749, HV 0RDF:R of THi: C.OVERNMICNT OF LOUIS XV., IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE REI'RICSKNTATIONS OF THE COUNT DE LA (VALISSONU^RE, ADMINISTRATOR OF NEW FRANCE, 1 747-49. ERECTED KV THE CORPORATION OF THI-: CITY OF TORONTO, 187S. I > I The administration of Simcoe was of brief duration ; he was recalled to lingland in 1796, and little improvement was made under his immediate successors. Troublesome times were in store for the young city ; its pioneers were early taught that security and independence were only to be obtained after bitter conflict. Karly in the year 18 12 a threatened invasion l)y the adjoining country turned all thoughts into the more serious channels of defence, and for nearly three years the city was under arms. An era of comparative peac& appears to have followed, during which institutions were established, and the city placed again on the high- way of prosperity. In 1834 the city was incorporated under the name of Toronto, but the seeds of internal strife were beginning to take root and threatened to plunge the community into all tlie hor- rors of civil war. The continued aggressiveness of the Colonial Government aroused the opposition to the point of rebellion, and an insurgent force was rai.sed at the north end of the city that, for some days, menaced its security. Actual warfare, however, was prevented by the timely appearance of the militia, but discontent reigned for a long time, and it was not until a revision of the legislation of the i6 From Niagara to the Sea. province took place that harmony was restored. In 1867 a new era dawned for the city ; by the federation of the provinces Toronto became the capital of the Province of Ontario, which gave a great impetus to its commerce and substantially assisted in placing it in the proud position it occupies to-day. Another factor in the develop- ment of Toronto was the completion of the gigantic railway system of Canada, which has placed her in communication with the entire length and breadth of the continent. The site of the city is low, \ — ■ . ■ — '^'I'^p^ r-^'y ■ • ■'-,7; i-ww^i. jjJM!J>w^Lt. >et;^ '"^■^Wl 1 "*■•". ■ ■'■; ■ Jjf-V '^^-■^ /^^m.^ ..7* y L. ^■kA k -t • Jfev,... - J ^^^ ^ V _ _ . - k( .-.r\.^^ ■ ^\ I , -.- ■■^ \ i ' '- ,'ii v—- _. 1 ^- _ ^ i X '■" Jm — . 1^ ■ -wL-Ahl-^^^iiU, ...---,^ •m^mam HI ;^^Sl Provincial House of ParliatiiL-nt, 'roioiito. although it rises gradually from the water's edge to an elevation of ov^er one hundred feet above *'^e level of the lake. The streets resemble in arrangement those of the modern cities of the United States, and there is an up-to-date appearance about the whole city. The streets and avenues are broad and well paved, and, except on the principal business thoroughfares, have boulevards of well-kept lawns and shade- trees. To the stranger this is amongst the most pleasing features of the place, drives through the long forested avenues affording delightful glimpses of shrubbery and flowers. The two main arteries of the city are Yonge and King streets, which cross each other at right angles. Starting from the foot of Yonge street, northwards from the bay, the most startling objects i The Kiiltc/it'ii & Ontario Naiioation Co. -,X ation streets nited city. on the lawns asing enues School of I'ractical Scienci', Toronto. seen are three fine build- ings fairly typical of the city's wealth and enter- prise — the C u s t o ni House, Hank of Mont- real and Hoard of Trade. From this point radiate the wholesale busine.ss streets, whose massive structures may be seen on every hand. At the intersection with King the commercial hub of the city is reached. Above King, is an almost unbroken line of retail .shops of every description, and it is perhaps the busiest of Toronto's .streets. Yonge divides the city into two grand divi.sions, and is the great thorough- fare of the north, exceeding thirty miles to Holland Landing. King street is well built up with substantial stone and brick buildings, many of which are equal to any on the American continent. It is Toronto's Hroadway. The residence of the Lieutenant-Governor, designed in the modern French style of architecture, is west on King. Near by are the old Parliament buildings, which are not interesting, except historically, and eastwardly, towards the bay. is the magnificent Union Station, utilized by the two great railway systems of Canada. Another of Toronto's notable buildings, one which has attracted great attention, is the magnificent Temple, at the north-west cor- ner of Richmond and liay .streets, erected by the vSupreme Court of the Independent Order of F^'oresters, and in which are located the head offices of that great fraternal benefit .society. The building, which is ten storeys high, and surmounted 'Die I'aviliiMi, llDiliviillural Cai ilt-n-. Tui oiilo. I« Flow Niaj^ara to f/ic Sea. by a central lower rising two storeys liighcr, is hiiilt of brown stone, brick, terra cotta and .•^teel. It is a model of architectural and art- istic constrnclion and t(iuipinent, and is greatly admired by all who visit and inspect it. From the top of the tower, which is nearly two hundred feel above tlie street level, a magnificent view of the city, the surrounding country and Lake Ontario can be obtained, and on occasions the south (»r American shore and Niagara Falls can be seen. In the b.i^ciueiu of the building are situated the safe deposit The 'IV'inpk' lUiildiiii;. Toioiito. Thr Richelieu & Ontario jVarii; a/ion Co. jy vaults of the Provincial Trust Company— the finest, largest and most thoroughly t(|uippe(l vaults in Canada. Among the tewatits are a bank and one of the largest pul)lishing companies in the Dominion, and occupying eligible positions are the assembly halls and lodge rooms used by the order and by the Masonic fraternity. The building is practically fireproof; indeed, is the only building in Toronto in which fire insurance companies will place a certain class of risks. The Ivxhibition Buildings aie situated on the Ciarrison Reserve, at the west end of the city, overlooking Lake Ontario, and can be easily reached. They are ranked amongst the finest of their class in the world, and, especially dn-ing the holding of the annual 'roidiiti) riii\ (vsiu exhibitions in vSeptember. attract large numbers of visitors. The Lunatic Asylum .stands further to the north, on a level plain — a large building, four storeys high, with a frontage of 644 feet^ ;| and has, with the two adjoining hospitals, about Soo inmates. The Orphans' Home, Mercer Reformatory for Women, Home for Incurables, in Parkdale, Toronto's western sul)urb, are places worth seeing. H)'de Park, further west, is a magnificent stretch of alter- 4 nate hill and shade, with beautiful trees and shru1)l)ery, and it \ almost borders on the Humber, a delightful resort, west of which is Lome Park. Rosedale, in the north-east, is adorned with fine resi- dences, and its ravines are romantically picture.sque, while (Queen's Park, the Horticultural Gardens and other charming breathing I places are found in the heart of the city. The title of "City of Churches," to which Montreal and Brooklyn aspire, is also claimed by Toronto, and, in view of the multiplicity ^o f-'yoni Ni'ai^artJ to t/ic Sra. ol" sacred tilifices, in ciulk-ss variety of architeclure, its right will not be disputed. St. James Cathedral, on Kinj^: street east, said to have the hi,L;hest spire on the continent, is a niaj^nificent specimen i)f I'!nj;lish (iothic architecture, and it is onl\- one of a large number of stately and imposinj; eilifues ; amongst others which niay be mentioned. St. Michael's Cathedral, the Metropolitan (Methodist) Church, directly opposite, jarvis Street liapti.st Church, Congrega- tional Church on Hond ami Willow streets, St. Andrew's and Knox Presbyterian churches. The Trovincial Parliament l)uildings, at the southern end of Queen's Park, form a stately pile, which was erected at a cost of $i,J50,()oo. It has a frontage of four hundred and thirty-five feet, with a depth of two humlred and sixty, and from its towers magnificent views of the city are obtainable. But a few rods away, in the western part of the park, is Toronto University, the pride of the city, which is said to be the only piece of collegiate architecture on the American continent worthy of standing room in the streets of Oxford. In its architectural features it belongs essentially to the Old World. The style is Norman, the proportions being noble and the harmony of the whole exquisite. The univer- sity was founded under a royal charter in 1827, and it has an endowment of $1,800,000. Its faculties include tho.se of Arts» 'I'll'- !-laiul I'.cik. 'ri'iDUt' I'lii Riduliin (5^ (hititno Xavij^ation Co. 2 I Science. Law. Theology and Medicine, and it is in federation witli rtnversity Coilej^e and Victoria Tnivtrsity. It has also provision lor residence, in this nspect dilVcrinK fro'" most oi the Canadian universities. 'iMie university proper, as iti London and elsewhere, is a degree-contcniu}; hoily, teaching; l^einj; vested \\. the collej;es. (Juffn's Hotel, 'rorotiti Near the university is the monument erected to the memory of the Canadian volunteers who fell while defending the frontier during the Fenian invasion of 1867. Osgoode Hall — the palace of justice — where the highest courts of the province are held, claims attention while in this vicinity. Interesting is the exterior structure of this building, but its beauty is altogether eclip.sed by the richness and elegance of its interior. Another building, on Queen street, worthy of note, is the University of Trinity College, founded in 1852, and having an endowment of $750,000. Victoria University, much smaller than its sister, but architecturally a gem, and McMaster University, a grand-looking structure of brick and stone, are not far away, and other educational institutions worth visiting are the Baptist College, Wycliffe College, Knox College, the Normal and Model Schools, the School of Practical Science, etc. \'isitors would also be interested in seeing the General Hospital, the Public Lilirary, /•>«'/;/ X/di^'dxi to till Sia. llif Caii:uli:m Instilutc, willi its imiSL-uin and lil>rary, X'ictoria Hospital lor sitk <-liil(iiLii, Atlik-tic- Cluh, Armory, etc. Toronto is well .supplit-fl with L-xcillent hotels. The Oueen's, oiif of iIk- most iomt'ortal)lc hotels on the roiitiiieiit pos.sessiti^ every modern convenience— has always been famous for its home- like comforts, and is in every way desirable as a family hotel. It is situated plea.santl\ , not far from either dock or station, yet quiet ; a remarkably cool hotel in summer. It has been patronized by nearly all visitors of note to Toronto. The Arlington has lately been coming to the fore as a le.ss pretentions but lliorounhly comforta!)le and well-managed hotel. There are also numerous other hotels and private boarding houses. There is a capital street-car .service, by which every part of the city can be reached, and a ride on the Belt Line will give the hurried tourist a fair idea of the city's best features. The steamers for the Thousand Islands and Montreal leave the docks of the Richelieu i\: Ontario Navigation Company daily. exce])t Sundays. Slowly they trace their difTicult way ainong the fleets of small craft of every kind that swarm the bay, and point their prows towards the eastern outlet of the harbor, past Wiman's baths, on Hanlan's .sland, and the new breakwater on the mainland side. On the north is tlie Don valley, issuing from the two converging Rosedale ravines, which, in their solitary grandeur of stupendous depth and lofty pine within their fold, remain the monument of some primeval drift. In front is the island, which protects the harbor from the boisterous weather of the lake, extending its narrow strip of land almost acro.ss the entire l)re.'idth of the city. Upon the surface of the bay can be seen the almost incessant movement of shipping vessels, the i.sland yachts, with their gracefully bulging sails, and canoes and skiffs dotted here and there among the larger craft. The whole scene is an imposing one, and the spectator is content to watch with the growing enchant- ment which increasing distance lends, until the picture grows dim before the eye.s and fades from view in an indistinguishable ha/.e. After issuing from the narrow strait into the broad expanse of blue waters that stretches far beyond the reach of human vision, the stately vessel, instinct with the power of her mighty enginery, rapidh- forges ahead, and her ponderous wheels are felt to (juicken their pulsations as, gathering strength, she strikes with vigorous strokes into the placid bo.som of the lake. \ % ■T. r. -.L y. A ^4 F)0))i Niai^ara to the Sea. The ntvv and l)eautiful steamer "Toronto," built at Toronto during the past year, will begin her regular trips on the Toronto- Montreal route on June ist, and will sail from Toronto every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. This magnificent boat has spacious and elegant passenger accommo- dation, including one hundred and forty staterooms, four parlors and larye I'uUman .sleeping cabin, and has a sleeping capacity for four Srcamer "Coronto." roit Hiijie, Out. Imndred and thirty passengers. The dining room, situated on the upper deck, has a seating capacity for over one hundred persons. The interior finish and decorations and the spacious halls and deck f-aloons are most elaborately executed, the main and gallery saloons being finished in Francis I. Renaissance, with the dining room in Louis XVI. The entrance hall, on the main deck, is decorated in'Neo-Grec, with modern Renai.ssance details, with the smoking room in Oriental treatment. The refreshment, writing rooms and barber shop are in Elizabethian panelling oi prima vera, natural wood finish. The main staircases are in Honduras mahogany, with wrought metal balustrades in hammered leaf work, finished antique bronze, the main newals carrying bronze figures supporting electric torches. To give some idea of the dimensions of this modern and fine steamer, a few figures would not be out of place. The length over all is 278 feet, width of beam 62 feet, depth 14 feet. The engines are of the triple expansion class. The featheiing paddle-wheels are The Riihelieii & Ontario Navi)^afio)i Co. -.■) % igines Is are 22 feet outside a id lo feet 3 inches face of bucket. The average time-table speed will be 17 miles an hour, with a capacity for 20 miles when required, which permits of more convenient hours of sailing being arranged for than heretofore. The first port of call for the steamer "Toronto," after leaving the city of Toronto, will be the pretty little village of Charlotte, «•. % ^ .^ .. ^- ^ •' b'i"R on the southern shore of Lake Ontario, Charlotte, n. y. , , r , n, 1 1 some .seven miles north of the city of Rochester, and one of the best points of tm])arkation for the Thousand Islands trip, and, on returning on the western trip, calls at this port on Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays, while other steamers of this popular line call at Cobourg and Port Hope on alternate days. Charlotte itself is a pleasant and picturesque village, situated at the mouth of the Genesee river, and is the lake port for all the tour- ist busine.ss converging in the city of Roche.ster. The environments of Charlotte contain a great many attractive re.sorts such as Ontario Beach, just below Charlotte, and connected with Rochester by a branch of the New York Central, and during the summer season trains run back and forth at frequent intervals. Good fishing and hunting are plentiful in the immediate vicinity, and bathing, boat- ing and driving, interspersed with social attractions at the sunuuer hotels, cannot fail to interest and amuse the traveller. Other favor- ite places in close proximity to Charlotte are W'ind.sor Beach, Lake Bluff, vSea Breeze, Irondequoit Bay, etc. Rochester is regularly laid out, with well-paved streets, bordered with shade-trees. It has earned the title of the "Flower City," from the numerous nurseries situated there, which, with the Kocbester. , ^ seed - farms during the season of bloom, are gorgeous sights, covering acres with their brilliant flowers. Rochester is noted for its many fine buildings and private residences. The Uni- versity of Rochester, an educational institu- tion, is afine structure, built of red sandstone, Caii^lit near Belleville, August 31st, iSSy, 'I'otiil -.veiRlit. I (7 lbs. 26 From Niai^ara to the Sea. surrounded by exten- sive grciuids beauti- fully laid out. The Falls of the Genesee river (three in num- ber) are among the natural attractions. Rochester is an im- portant railroad cen- tre ; the trains of the New York Central, Lehigh Valley, Buf- falo, Rochester & Pittsburg, New York, Lake Erie & Western, and Western New York & Pennsylvania railroads all connect at this point. Con- nections are made be- tween Rochester and Charlotte by means Vaclit Racing on tlie Hay of (Juiiite. • ^^ ^j^^ NcW York Central trains ; also by Electric Railway. Leaving Charlotte, the steamer sails down Lake Ontario, on her way towards Kingston. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays the Richelieu & Ontario Company's steamers pass through the Bay of Quinte on their westward trips. The steamer speeds on past shores filled with the mystery of unwritten history, for already in the distance the dim outlines of the lighthouse of Port Hope may be seen, and our footsteps may soon press — where, centuries ago, Tlie red man fouRht and continered, lost and won. Whole tribes ar.d races, gone like last year's snow, Have fo\ind the eternal hunting grounds, and run The (iery gauntlet of their ancient days. Here, though largely shrouded in mystery, were fought the fiercest and most relentless battles for the possession of the midland region of Canada. The territory was well worth fighting for. It is the fabled "happy hunting ground"' ; deer, black bear, lake salmon, \ St St St a; it I" The Kit/i(iirii c~ 0>i/a)io Navii^ation Co. sturgeon, bass and lake-trout were found in lavish abundance, and still amply repay the skill of the sportsman ; and wild rice and maize ,i,^rew over vast tracts. No wonder, then, that Huron and Algonquin struggled valiantly, though unsuccessfully, to retain possession against the attacks of the Iro([Uois. that race of athletes who lorded it over half a continent, and whose alliance was eagerly courted by France and Ivngland. A few miles inward is the Indian settlement of Hiawatha, named after the Hercules of the Objiway mythology, whom Longfellow has immortalized in his melodious trohaics. Here we may wander by the "groves of singing pine-trees, ever singing, ever sighing ," and perchance follow in the trail trod centuries before by moccasined feet or black-robed priest. How changed the aspect : the struggles for supremacy are ended, and the old tragic .scenes are rapidly passing into the twilight of Plomeric legend. The prosperous town of Port Hope once bore the Indian name of Ganaraske. The town is most picturesquely situated on the north .shore of the lake, rising in the background to a noble eminence, rendering it one of the most healthful of residential situations. To the sportsman it is a paradise, as from its position it is the gateway to the sporting territory of the region. The next stoppage is six miles further along the coast, at Cobourg (5,000), a town of considerable business activity, it being Port Bopc. . the land It is non, 'I'lt^ntDii, < ml. 28 From Niai^ara to the Sea. the distributing centre of an exceedingly fertile portion of the Province. It is a place of no mean pretensions to beauty, its streets being broad and neatly laid out, as well as frequently Cobourfl. ^^Qj„g(^ \^y elegant public and private buildings. The drives along the eastern approaches of the town are very beautiful. Soon after the steamer leaves Cobourg, the day is drawing near to a close, and the voyage accjuires a fresh interest for the mind thai is responsive to the picturesqueness of nature. The western sun is setting, with its great halo of crimson light, behind the Northumber- land hills ; eastward, the clouds that hang like the filmy draperies in heaven are roseate from the setting sun, while towards the south and east, Ontario's waters, stretching far away into the grey horizon, reflect the splendor of the sunset scene from their impenal bosom, until the view slowly dissolves itself, and the shadow of the coming night begins to brood upon the face of things. darkness creeps along the distant reaches of the deep, and possibly the moon, full-orbed or crescent, comes to shed its luminous rays upon the dark watery pathway of tht- great steamer, as she moves along the coast of Prince PMward County, past the docks, down towards the lower gap which opens into Kingston, the next stopping point. i mo Bay The Riihclicii cj~ Ontario Mavii^ation Co. 29 IS »er- •ies ith |on, »m, ling My rds It. Bay of Quinte. While she is plying her midnight way into the early hours of the morning, we shall leave her, with all her slumbering passengers, to trace a very pleasant detour through the Murray Canal and Hay of Ouinte, available to tourists liy means of the Richelieu Company's steamers "Hamilton" and "Algerian," which alone take this route down, whereas the other steamers take this course on their return trip on Tuesdays, Thursdays a.id vSaturdays. The steamer takes a circuitous course from Cobourg to its next stopping place, Brighton, passing in the distance on the right the Sandbanks, the Scotch Bonnet light and Weller's Bay. After round- ing the Presque Isle light into the bay of the same name, it has to trace a devious way among the difficult and intricate channe' ., buoyed up by a system of range lights to facilitate navigation among its shoals, until finally the port of Brighton is reached. This has a well-sheltered harbor, and is a district of considerable industrial activity, its manufactures covering flouring and plaster mills, a tannery, and canning works. From Brighton the end of Presque Isle Bay is crossed to the Murray Canal, which has been constructed across the narrow isthmus that joins the Prince Edward peninsula to the main land. This canal has been the means of opening up for a highway of steamboat traffic the sinuous picturesqueness of the Bay of Quinte, with its splendid scenery of elevated shore, capped by tall trees, and of long reaches which give the place a romantic beauty eminently fitting it for a field of summer pastime and recuperation. We can- not issue from the narrow waters of the canal, with its four spanning I'orrt -~ui'< 1>-I;tiui I'ai k. I ^o Front A^hii;ir/a to the Sea. bridges 'railway and three highway bridges), into the broader waters of the Bay of Quinte, withont allowing our thoughts to drift back to the heroic Fcnelon. brother of the famous Archbishop of Cambray, who, in 1668, directed his steps into the heart of these solitudes. Reared amid the refined luxury of his ancestral home in Perigord. with the prospect of the alliance of his house with one of the most powerful families of France, there is a tinge of romance mingled with his deeds. But as we peruse the narrative which (1 li-iiDia, tliit. history has preserved of the struggles, privations and dangers to which he was exposed in extending the cause of religion, ter- minating with his life, at the early age of thirty-eight, the romantic spell is broken, and there gathers around his memory the aureole of mart5'rdom. Leaving the Murray Canal, the steamer courses ilong the south shore, past Indian Island, over to Trenton '5,000), at the mouth of the River Trent. This is at once the centre of a fine agri- cultural district and the home of vigorous and varied industries, which are favored by the presence of exceptional water power and the distril)nting media of the Grand Trunk Railway and the steamboat lines. The town has a beautiful and commanding site at the head of the Hay of Ouinte, of which it has the .sweep clear up to Belleville. On the west it is flanked by the sister mounts, Pelion and Ossa, from who.se elevated summits the low- Crcnton. The Richelieu & (Ontario Navii^ation Co. 3' south ith of agri- •ariecl water y and ndiiig sweep sister low- lands and the l)ay, wi''' its beautiful indentations of coast line, stretch before the eye in sp]-ndid panorama. Northward, the eye can catch, amid the undulating hills of .Sydney and of Murray, the gleaming waters of Trent's meandering .stream, while southward, beyond the bay and peninsula as far as the sight can reach, lies Lake Ontario's boundless blue, the waters of an inland sea. From the canal, the Central Ontario Railway trains run to Consecon, seven miles east, where there is excellent ba.ss and pickerel fishing, and to Picton, in the vicinity of which anglers will find fair sport. If the trip, however, is to be continued uninterrupted, on leaving Trenton, the steamer passes Baker's and Nigger's islands on the left down the bay towards Belleville. On the right is Rednersville, the principal shipping port of the townships of Ameliasburgh and Hillier, well known for their fruit industries. Their apple and grape production is exceedingly progressive, both in quantity and quality. In the distance over our bows looms up by this time the long and graceful span of Quinte Bridge, which is said to be the longest highway bridge in America. To the left, before the bridge is reached, the Provincial Institution for the Deaf and Dumb is .seen. As we near the massive bridge, its ponderous draw is opened at a .signal from the steamer's whistle, and we glide swiftly through the opening of the graceful struc- ture, which, from the distance, seemed to present an impass- able barrier to our progre.ss. Entering the harbor, the eyes rest upon the city of Belle- ville (population 1 1, GOO ), the county town of Hastings, at Lhe mouth of the Moira river. A brief glance at the situation and surroundings of the city is .sufficient to convince the tourist or sportsman that nature has singled out this spot as an ideal summer re.sort. Far out in the open waters, or winding in and out along the shore, hidden among its coves, are a .series of camping and fishing grounds, the discovery of which will fill the sportsman with delight. Here, amid.st an infinite variety of .scenery, and the enjoyment of rare and pure atmosphere, for which Belleville. Martt'lU) Tower, Kiiit;stoii, Ftom Niai^nra to tlic Sea. tlie district is famous, tlie pleasures of l)oatiiig atid yachting may be indulged iji to the heart's content. This is the prospect presented to us before we set foot on the shores of the city commonly known as the " Heautiful." From any elevated site its claim to this title will be found justified. In the centre of the valley, through which the River Moira flows to the bay, is the business part of the city, with its substantial Iniildings ami well-ordered streets, picturescjue even in its thoroughfares. On the hills, which rise gradually from the vale, are scattered the modern and beautiful homes of its citizens, amid shrouded nooks and retreats, coml)ining the pleasures of rural life with the advantages of a thriving city. Belleville boasts of a number of fine puV)lic buildings, the most noteworthy of which are the Court House, the Armory and Drill Hall, the Post Office, City Hall, and other Government buildings, and the Carman Opera House. The principal seat of learning is Albert College, a group of buildings comprising chapel and class rooms, dormitory and profes.sors' residence, gymnasium and museum of natural history. The other leading institutions are the High vSchool, the Ontario Business College, Belleville Business College, and the Ontario Institution for the Deaf and Dumb. The steamer crosses over the bay to Belleville's charming sum- mer resort, Massassaga Point, which contains a first-class hotel and several cottages, and is .set in the midst of a scene of unequalled beauty. Besides being in the centre of the haunts of the maskinonge, it provides for every kind of amusement. I^eaving Massassaga Point, the .steamer enters an expansion of the bay, across which she traverses past Ox Point and Point Ann, with their inexhaustible limestone quarries, and Big Island. To the right is the village of Northport, the shipping place of the township of Sophiasburg, a district which produces large quantities of apples, chee.se and hops. Moving on eastward, Telegraph Island is passed, with its light- house, Peterson's Ferry on the right, and on the left the Mohawk Indian Re.seu'e of Tyendenaga, a territory which the white intruder left to the ancestral owners of the whole land. It is populated by the vSix- Nation Indian.s — Mohawks, Oneidas, Oiiondagas, vSenecas, Cayugas and Tuscaroras — remn?ints of the intrepid Iro(iuois, who left the main stock of their people in New York, in 17S4, and came to Canada. Here they have .settled down in peace, while the white man, with his rushing railways and his noisy manufactories, is 34 Froiu Nidi; It 10 to the Sea. rapidly obliterating t!ie traces of his old ln;ntinj; Krouiuls in tin- principal solitudes which stretched aloiiK the margin of the great lakes. They are a Christian community, as is attested by the grey spire of the church, that can be seen from the bay, lifting its head above the clustering trees. A gift to which the Indians point with pride is a silver communion service presenteil to them by (^ueen Anne, carefully preserved and loyally cherished. In many ways ---'.••Vn^ they show exceptional gifts, especially in the line of practical arts, such as needlework, for which the Mohawk mothers are famous. Even the children show a natural skill in drawing, in which they evince a decided superiority over white boys of the same age. The men occupy themselves either at agricultural pursuits or in the employment of some of Deseronto's manufactories. Nearing the docks of Deseronto, the steamer passes Forester's Island Park, owned by Dr. Oroiihyatehka, a pleasant summer resort, commanding an extensive view. This island was part of the domain of the powerful Mohawk chief whose name is perpetuated in the ])usy port we are now entering. Deseronto is conspicuous from the distance by the massive lumber piles, the tall smo.cing chimneys from the numerous large factories, .some brick-colored and some of the color of zinc ; by the dockyards, with the steamers and ves.sels in process of con- truction or repair, all giving a prepos.session to the spectator that this is surely a place ot" great industrial activity. Dcseronto. The Riiln'Uni i'"' Oudirio Navii^atioii Co. 35 The town is Iniilt on a hill which rises j^radually from the water's edge northwards. Situated on an elbow of the hay where the Belleville Reach ahrniUly turns from the north-east to soutii into the I'icton Reach, it has a survey of the beautiful scenery of both, as well as, towards the east, of the tortuous cliannels of the Napanee River. Towards the west, the Telegraph I.sland light looms up in the misty di.stance, like a fairy tower tloating on the water's surface ; towards the .south, the lotig stretch of elevated coast, clothed in foliage green, .seems to approach so clo.se to the opposite shore, away ahead, as to leave apparently only a narrow gorge between, through which, now and then, appear the sails of yachts and schooners working up the Reach. Crossing the Long Reach for Picton, on the picturesque shores of Prince Kdward county, the passage is enhanced by the beauty and variety of the .scene which greets the eye. The entry to Picton I'ay, enclosed by two lofty shores, is impressive, lending beauty to the prospect of the town, which is now in full view. From the elevation of the.se shores, a marvellous stretch ot lake and woodland grandeur is .seen. Owing to the sheltered posi- tion of its harbor, Picton is highly favored as the shipping centre of Prince Kdward county. Fruit and grain are grown in abundance in this region and distributed from Picton. It is a manufacturing town of importance, having large cainiing factories, foundries, and a shipyard for the building and repairing of ve.ssels. It is also the terminus of the Central Ontario Railroad. Picton. Tlions.itul Isl.iiuls Sceiitry. /• tout A'/diTord A' ///<-■ Sen. 36 The town is provided with all modtrn iniprovt'ineiits in the way of water works, electric liKlit, fire alarm, telejjhone and telegraph systems. The drives on either siciore us lies the entry to the sinuous channels of the famous archi- pelago of the Thou- sand Islands. Fiiliiler's Elbow — lyost Chaiintl- Canadian Islan