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''OX 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 12X 7\ 16X 20X 24X 28X J_j 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Bibliothdque natiortale du Quebec L'exemplaire fiim6 fut reproduit grdce A la g6n4ro8it6 de: Bibiiothdque nation&le du Quebec The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the la&t page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol --»> (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. 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Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — »• signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds A des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 d partir de I'angid sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Z,3 Mystery in Death of Captain The pnd of Capt. Lewis, later Gov. Lewis of I^ouisiana Territory and on« I of the leaders of the fa-nous Lewis I and Clark expedition across the ron- ! tlnent, was tragical and shadowed by a c)oud. Official business callingr htm to Washington, he left Saint Louis early in September, 1809. and prose- cuted his journey eastward through Tennessee by way of Chickasaw Bluffs, now Memr^hfs. There is a mystery surrounding his last day*. Oct. 11 he stopped at a v.aysid" inn,' and that night he died a % lalent death, whether by his own hand or by that of a murderer, no living man knows. There were many contiadic- tory stories about the sad affair, Bom«5 persons holding to the one theory ana some to the other. Capt. Lewis was buried where he died, in the center of what is now Lewis county, Tennessee. In 1S48 the state of Tannessec erected over his last resting place a handsome monument, the inscriptions on wh|<»r. duly set forth his many virtues and his distinguished services to hi« iOountry. • JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGES AND TRAVELS OF ^ CORPS OF DISCO rERr, UNDEK THE COMMAND OF CAPTAIN WTni eint,loyed in the Expedition. during an Wales, PAUu;iun. ' • ' • ' ' i ■ ■ - ' ■ ■ : I . • ■• » I Ka BitUeU, 4- Co. Printers. ,., . ; riiuUl'lltrtet, C»Utn-$tuMr*. , ,, . • , t • • • • • 4 9 P 7 1) :» ADVERTISEMENT BY THE EWGUSII PUBTJSIfER. 1 HE following Journal, though dry in its style, cannot fail to prove interesting in the extreme to all those persons, who have either seen or read mLch of America, and who must naturally be dssirous of knowing what is to be seen in those immense countries, which lie between the Missis- sippi and the Pacific Ocean, and through the whole extent of which the language of England will, in all human probability, be one day spoken and written, in spite of all the prejudices that can be brought to operate against it. The JournaHst appears to have been of inferior rank in the Ex- pedition; but, with those who wish to know the unadorned truth, that circumstance is not likely to be lamented. From facts such as he records, the reader will be able to form a much more correct idea of the real state of the country, than he would IV from a narrative, written under t!ie influence of a desire to establish or confirm certain pre-conceived positions ; not to mention another influence, too generaMy prevalent in America, namely, that of self-interest, for which there may be such ample scope of indulgence, in giving an account of coun- tries, immediately adjoining that of a nation of land-jobbers. London, April 18, 1808, uence of a •conceived uence, too jr, that of ich ample t of coun- nation of PREFACE, BY THE AMERICAN PUBLISHER, Of the various publications which unite amuse- ment and information, few can be justly held in higher estimation than the Journals and Narra- tives of Travellers and Voyagers : and in our own highly favoured country, the diffusion of general knowledge, the cnterprizing spirit of the people, their commercial pursuits and habits of emigration, render such works particularly va- luable and interesting ; while the vigorous and unrestrained mind of the free American, by amplifying and embellishing the scenes pre- sented to its view, enjoys tlie choicest luxuries of the entertainment they are calculated to af- ford. If it is conceded, that discoveries made in North America are more important to the people of the United States than those made elsewhere, it will not be difficult to shew that none could have been made of so much impor- tance to them in any part of the world as in the large tracts of country through which the m* late Expedition, under the command of Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, passed. For, if we take a view of the different discoveries and set- tlements previously made, wc will find that those tracts through which the Missouri and Colum- bia rivers, and their branches flow, commonly called Unknown Regions, were the only parts remaining unexplored, which could be consi- dei'ed valuable. The first discovery of the Western World by Europeans of which we have any authentic ac- ■counts, being near the southern extremity of North America, drew, as might be expected, 'heir attention to that quarter: and the rage which this grand discovery excited for other enterprises of the same nature; the avidity, with \rhich avarice was stimulated to seize the pre- cious metals, known to exist in those parts ; the means held out for gratifying ambition ; and the prospects of a 4ucrative eommerce, with many other objects and considerations, tended largely to extend tlien^- while the diminution of the Northern Continent to a narrow isthmus, * and its large gulphs, bays and rivers, furnished and facilitated the means of exploring it. The spirit of enterprise, however, was not confined to the southern extremity ; but, extending itself to the climates congenial with those which it had left, and CQiinecting with its researches the planting of colonies, important discoveries w.re made along tl.e Atlantic coa.t. I„ ,he mean time, the project of discovering a North- V/est Passage to the East Indie, led the boldest naval commanders of Europe through the Inland Seas Ba.V», and Straights of the North ; and at length produced surveys of the shores of the Pacific, lo these discoveries, and those occasionally «nade during the settlement of the country «;.thin the limits of the United States, and in Canada, the Hudson's Bay Con.pany, though not famed for enterprise, added something to the stock of general information, and by their estabhshments aided others in their enterprises. Mr. Hearne, under the direction of this com- pany m an expedition, which lasted from the 7th of December }770, to the 30th of June mt proceeded from Prince of Wales's Fort, on thi Churchhdl river, i„ latitude 58- 47i' north and ongitude 9V 7i' west of Greenwich,' o 19 west of Philadelphia, to the mouth of the Coppermine River, which, according to some ccounts,,s in latitude rr north and iLgitudc pideM- T""'"""^'''' °' 44" west of n latitude about 69V north, and longitude PhiJTI-^'"" ^'^--i-^h, or 37- west from Philadelphia. Whatever the confined views and B 3 y ? contracted policy of the Hudson's Bay Com* pany may, however, have omitted in the way of discovery, the enterprise and perseverance of the Canadian traders, sometime since united under the name of the North- West Company, have amply supplied. Prior to the year 1789, they liad extended their discoveries and esta- blishments along the nunieious lakes and rivers situated north of that high tract of country which divides the Mississippi and Missouri wa- ters from those which run towards the north and east, to within a short distance of the Rocky Mountains. In the summer of this year, Mr. M'Kqnzie made a voyage from Fort Chepewyan on the lake of the Hills in latitude 58"* 40' north, and longitude 110' 30' west from Greenwich, or 35" 28' west from Philadel- phia, by the way of the Slave River, Slave Lake, and a river by which this lake discharges its waters (since called M'Kenzie's River) to the mouth of that river, where it falls into the North •ea, in latitude dS"* 14' north, and longitude 135° west from Greenwich, or 59' 52' west from Philadelphia. He again, in the year 1793, penetrated from an establishment on the Peace river in latitude 56" 9' north, and longitude 117* 35' west from Greenwich, or 41* 27' west from Philadelphia, to the Pacific Ocean in .4 lay Com- he way of crance of ce united !^ompany, ear 1789i and esta- and rivers f country jsouri wa- the north he Rocky year, Mr. hepewyan e 58' 40' est from Philadcl- avc Lake, harges its ir) to the the North longitude 52' west ear 1793, the Peace longitude r 41* 27' Ocean in latitude 52' 24' north, and longitude 19s- «' west from Greenwich, or 5V 54' west from Philadelphia. By the discoveries alluded to, and those oc- casionally made during the rapid settlement of the country and the progress of enterprise, the principal divisions of this Northern Conti- nent has been explored and become known. The line separating these from the parts which remained unexplored and unknown, may be considered as commencing at the Pacific ocean, in latitude about 38* north, and running along the high lands and mountains between the waters which fall into the gulphs of California and Mexico, and those which fall into tiie Mis- souri river, and continuing in that direction to the Mississippi; thence up th^it river to the source of its highest north-western branch ; tlience along the high tract of country, which divides the waters of the Missouri from those which fall into Hudson's Bay and the North sea; from whence it will continue across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean in latitude about 52* north. To the south of this general division line, the known countries will be Old and New Mexico, and a part of Louisiana ; to the south- east. West and East Florida; to the east, the United States ; to the north-east, Canada, the Labrador country, part of New South Wales, 1 and of other countries round Hudson's Bay; and to the north, part of New South Wales, New- North Wales, the Athahasca, and other coun- tries containing the establishments of the Hud- son's Bay and North-West Companies, and those explored by Hearne and M'Kenzie : leaving un- known and unexplored (except so far as the Sur- veys made by navigators of the coa£i of the Pacific, and the imperfect a'ccounts of traders Tvho have ascended the Missouri, have furnished information) all that large intermediate tract, containing in breadth about 1000 miles; and in length, in a direct line, about 1800 miles, and by the way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers nearly twice that distance. This tract from its situation may be supposed to contain the chief part of those lands in the great western division of the continent of North America fit for til- lage : and this circumstance will therefore in a special manner claim the attention of an agri- cultural people, render more interesting a de- scription of them, and attach additional value to the history of the country. It will not be for- gotten, that an immense sum of treasure has been expended in the purchase of this country, and that it is now considered as belonging to the United States. Here, at no distant period, set- tlements may be formed ; and in a much shorter term than has elapsed since the first were made in America, from which hath arisen a great, pow- erful, and independent nation, the posterity of the present inhabitants of the Union may unfurl the standard of Independence, on the plains of the Missouri and Columbia. With respect to the accuracy of tlie relations given in the following pages, it may be neces- sary to inform those readers not acquainted with the fact, that the principal obj ct in sending out the Expedition was to gain some correct account of the country : and that this might be done more effectually, and the information collected, preserved with .Tiore certainty, it was enjoined upon the several persons belonging to the corps, who were considered capable, to keep journals, and every necessary information and assistance given them for that purpose ; these journals were also, from time to time, compared, corrected, and any blanks, which had been left, filled up, and unavoidable omissions supplied. By thus multiplying the journals, revising and correct- mg them, the chances of securing to the country a true account of the progress of the Expedition and of the discoveries which should be made, especially should the party be attacked and de- feated by the savages, or meet with any otiier disasters in their hazardous enterprise, were also multiplied. The following is an extract of a Ccrtificat* (( . • * • 1 1 ■ i IS JOURNAL 4 or THE VOVAGES AND TRAVELS, ^c. ^c. CHAPTER f. '^M: From the I4th of May, to the 27th of July, 1804. ffe leave our EstahUskment at the Mouth of the Wood liiver, and proceed up the Missouri. Account of the ExpedUion. Encamp at the North Bank, six Miles up the River. Arrive at St. Charles. Captain Lexm joins the Expedition. Encamp at the Cliffs on the North Side of the River. Pass the Mouth of the Osage River. Arrive at St. John's. Pass Otter Creek. Arrive at the Mouth of Gaskenade River. Km a Deer. Mud Creek described. Encamp at Grindstone Creek. Arme at the Osage River. De- scription of the Osage Indians. Encamp at the Mouth of Marrow Creek. Pass Saline Creek, And tht River of the Big Devil. Prairie of Arrows. Pass the Ttco Charlottes. Meet five Pinogues laden with Fur and Peltry, from the Sioux Indians. Our Hun- ters bring in a handsome Horse. Kill several Deer and a Bear. Pass Taber Creek, and Tiger Creek. 14 Encamp on a Point, at the Confluence of th% Canton Rvter with the Missouri. Stop at P^nd Creek. One of our People bitten by a Snake. Pass a Creek which a'c ca//e minutes north lati- tude; about 2 degreei west of New Orieans, in latitude 30 degrees north, and the same number of degrees east of the most western i i! 15 The corps consiitcd of forty-tlirec men (in- •luding Captain Lcwiiaud Captain Clarke, who were to command the Expedition) part of the regular troops of the United States, and part engaged for this particular enterprise. The expedition was embarked on board a batteau and two periogues. The day was showery, and in the evening we encamped on the north bank six miles up the River. Here we had leisure to re- flect on ouf situation, and the- nature of our engagements : and, as we had all entered thii service as volunteers, to consider how far we stood pledged for the success of an expedition, which the government had projected, and which had been undertaken for the benefit and at the expencc of the Union ; of course of much interest and high expectation. The be&t authenticated accounts informed us, that we were to pass through a country possessed by nunjerous, powerful and warlike nations of savages, of gigantic stature, fierce, treacherous, and cruel ; and particularly hostile to white men. And fame had united with tradition in opposing mountains to our course, which human enter- prise and exertion would attempt in vain to point of Hudson's Bay, in latitude about 59 degrees north : So that a hpe drawn from New Orleans to Fort Churchill, at the mouth of Ch«rch.ll river on the West side of Hudson's Bay, would pass very Bear the Mouth of the Missouri and the west end of take Superior. ' 1« ptss. The determined and resolute character, however, of the corps, and the confidence which pervaded all ranks, dispelled every emo- tion of fear, and anxiety for the present; while a sense of duty, and of the honouf which would attend the completion of the object of the Expedition; a wish to gratify the expec- tations of the government, and of our fellow citizens, with the feelings which novelty and discovery invariably inspire, seemed to insure to us ample support in our future toils, suffering, and dangers. On the 15th we continued our voyage. It rained in the morning; but in the afternoon we had clear weather, and encamped at night on the north side of the river. Wednesday l6th. — We had a fine pleasant morning; embarked early, and at 2 o'clock in the afternoon arrived at St. Charles, and fired a gun. A number of the inhabitants came to see us. This is an old French village, in the country around which a number of Americans have settled. -" We remained at St. Charles until the 31st, where Captain Lewis arrived from St. Louis and joined us. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we left this place under a salute of three cheers from the inhabitants, which we returned with three more and a discharge of three guns. This ^' 1 :c character, confidence ! every emo- he present ; the honour )f the object y the expec- ' our felloHT lovelty and to insure to i, suffering, voyage. It fternoon we it night on ne pleasant I o'clock in and fired a came to sec ^c, in the Americans 1 the 31st, . Louis and "ternoon we iree cheers Limed with I f 17 crening: tvas Showery, and we again encamped on the north side of the river. Tuesday ssd.— We continued our voyage; passed Bon urn creek on the south side, and ha- ving made fifteen miles, encamped at the Cliffs on the north side of the river. Here we were visited by some Indians. Wednesday 23d.— At 6 o'clock in the morn- ing we proceeded on our voyage with pleasant weather. Passed the mouth of the Osage* river on the south side, about a mile and an half below the Tavern Cove, a noted place among the French traders. One mile above this is the Tavern Creek. We encamped this evening on the south side of the river, and had our arms and ammunition inspected* Thursday 24th.— We continued our voyage, and encamped at night on the south side. This day our boat turned in a ripple, and nearly up- set. . J L Friday 25th.— We proceeded three miles and passed a creek on the south side, called Wood river; the banks of the river are here high, and the land rich ; arrived at St. John's, a small French village, situated on the north side, and encamped a quarter of a mile above it. This is the last settlement of white people on the river. Saturday 26th.— This morning two of our * Perhaps Little Osage. C u people set out by land with a couple of horses. At seven we embaikcd, and had loud thunder and heavy- rain ; passed Otter creek on the north side, and encamped near its mouth. Sunday mh.-^We pamd Ash creek, where there are high clifls on the south side; and at in a long bend of the river, and encamped at the mouth of' Grand river on the north side. This is as handsome a place as I ever saw in an uncul- tivated state. Thursday 14th.— At five o'clock in the morn- ing we continued our voyage. The river having risen during the night, M'as difficult to ascend. At noon we passed some Frenchmen from the Poenese or Ponis nation of Indians, where they spent the last winter. In the evening we passed Snake creek on the north side, and encamped on the same. Friday 15th. — Wc renewed our voyage at five ncle. We river at a )f the next us to pro- proceeded en we met y from the lined with belonged, d French- t' the djf- souri, and eter, rly on our north side ped at the k. This an uncul- the morn- er having o ascend, from the lere they we passed encamped ige at five 93 in the morning, and had very rapid water. There is a beautiful prairie on the south side, and the land high. Mulberries are in great abundance almost all along the river. We encamped on the north side, opposite an old Indian villao-e, Saturday 1 6th.— Three men went out this morning to look for timber to make oars, bat could find none suitable. On their return we continued our voyage ; had cloudy weather and rapid water all day, and encamped on the north side. Sunday 17th.— This morning was clear, and at five we renewed our voyage. Having pro- ceeded about a mile, we halted to get tim- ber for oars; and while we remained here to make them, our hunters came in and brought with them a handsome horse, which they had found astray. They also brought a bear, which they had killed. Monday 1 8th.— We remained here all day; and our hunters killed five deer and a bear. On the south side there is high land, and a long prairie ; on the north the land is level and well timbered, with ash, sugar tree, black walnut, buck-eye, cotton wood, and some other timber. Tuesday liJth.~We passed Tabo creek on the soutli side, and a small creek on the north ; and encamped on the south side, opposite a small yThe day was clear, and we * Jirk is meat cut into small pieces, and dried in the sun, or by a ftre. Tlie Indians cure and preserve their meat in this way without Salt. "^ 26 continued our voyage; found high land on both sides of tlie river; and passed a large creek on the north side, died Piatt, fifty yards wide. We broke our mast, and encamped on the south side, where there were the most signs of game I ever san^. Sunday 1st July, 1 804.--We set out at five in the morning, and having advanced I'j miles» encamped on an island, opposite a pi-airie on the south side o£ the river. Monday Sd.-At sunrise we cmitinued our voyage, and met a quantity of drift wood which vas carried down the stream; this morning we passed a creek on the south side, and encamped on the north opposite an old French village and fort, but all vacant, Tuesday 3d.— We proceeded again at five, and continued our voyage until 12, trhen we stoj)t at an old tradhig place on tlie south side of the river. There we found a girey horse; btit saw no appearance of any persons having lately encamped at that place. ^ Wednesday 4tk-. We fired a swiveUt sun- ri«e in honour of the day. and continued our vc^yagc ; passed a creek on the north side, calfed Pond creek, and at one o'clock stoptr to diw: One of our people got snake-bitten, bnt not dangerously. After dinner we renewed our voy- age, and passed a creek on the north side, which land on both 'ge creek on yards wide. 30 the south »3 of game I )itt at five in li I'J miles, rairie en the ntinued our irood which Homing we I encamped village and a it five, ' when we south side ifey horse; >n« having el at Sim- finned our ide, caUfd t to (Yuk: , hnt not I our voy- d*e, which 27 wc called Independence; encamped on the north side, at an old Indian village, situated in a handsome pfairie, and saluted the departing day with another gun. Thursday 5th.— We proceeded on our voyage at five in the morning; and found the land high on the south side. We went through a large bend full of sand-bars, where we had some diffi- culty in passing ; and encamped on the south side at high prairie land. Friday 6th.~We set out early this morning ; had a fine day, and made a good day's voyage : and encamped on the south side at WhipperweJI creek. Saturday 7th.— At an early hour we proceeded on our voyage; passed a high handsome prairie on the north side, and killed a wolf and a large wood-rat on the bank. The principal difference between it and the common rat is, its havino- hair on its tail. ^ Sunday 8th.~ We were under weigh this morn- ing before day-light. Tiie river here is crooked and narrow. At one, we came to a large island, with only a small stream on the north side, which we went up. A large creek called xVadowa flows HI from the north ; and on this side we en- camped. Monday 9th.~Early this morning we conti- nued our voyage. It rained hard till 12 o'clock. 28 We passed a creek on the south side, called Wolf creek. The man that was snake-bitten is become well. We encamped on the south side. Tuesday 10th.~We set out early this morning, and had a fair day and fair wind. There is a handsome prairie on the south side opposite an island. We encamped on the north side. Wednesday 11th.— We also embarked early this morning; passed a creek on the north side» called Tarico, and halted at an island, opposite a creek called Moha on the south side of the river. Seven hunters went out to-day, and two of them brought in five deer. Here we found another horse on the bank of the river, supposed to have been left by a hunting party last winter. Two of our men, who had gone to hunt on the south side of the river, did not return at night. Thursday 12th.-- We remained here this day, that the men, who were much fatigued, might take some rest. The hunters, who had remained on the south side of the river all night, came in, but had killed nothing. Two more went to hunt on the north side, and killed two deer. Friday 13th.— We were early under weigh this morning with a fair Avind. The day was fine. We passed a creek on the north side, and having made 20 miles and a half, encamped on a large sand-bar. Saturday 14th.— At day-break it began to 29 1 side, called nake-bitten is le south side, this morning, i. There is a e opposite an h side. barked early le north side» and, opposite I side of the [lay, and two ere we found *'er, supposed y last winter. ) hunt on the Lirn at night, lere this day, gued, might lad remained night, came more went i two deer. ?r weigh this lay was fine. and havinff 1 on a large t began to rain and continued until seven, when it abated, and we set forward : but in a short time a gust of wind and rain came on so violent, that all hands had to leap into the water to save the boat. Fortunately this storm did not last long, and we went on to a convenient place and landed. Here we continued two hours, and then proceeded. We saw some elk, but could not kill any of them ; passed a river on the north side, called Wash-ba-to-nan, and encamped on the south side. Sunday ] 5th.— We got under weigh at six o'clock; passed a creek on the south side ; and gathered some ripe grapes. There is high land and prairies on this side. Captain Clarke and two men went by land. At the head of an is- land, called Elk island, we found some pum- mice-stone among the drift wood. We passed a creek on the south side, called Na-ma-ha, and encamped on the same. Monday I6th. -Early in the morning we pro- ceeded on our voyage opposite a prairie; had a fine day and fair wind, and passed a long island, above which is a place where the bank has slipl ped into the river. There are high rocky cliffs on the south side, and hiils and prairies on the north : on which side we encamped. The river here is two miles wide with rapid water. Two of our hunters met us here with two deer. lid ii I. 50 Tuesday irth.—M^e remained here all day; and one of our hunters killed three deer. Wednesday 18th.— Early this morning we pro- secuted onr voyage with a fair wind and plea- sant weather. This is the most open country I «ver beheld, almost one contii.aed prairie. Two of our hunters went by land with the horses as usual. On the south side we passed high hand- some banks or bluffs of red and blue strata*; found some iron ore here, and encamped on the south side, where one of the hunters brought us two deer. Thursday 19th.— At sunrise we renewed our voyage, and passed a number of sand-bars and liigh land on the south side. Where we halted for dinner, we found a gr^^at quantity of cherries, called by some choak-chcrries. We encamped for the night on an island of Willows. Friday 20th.— We embarked early; passed high yellow banks on the south side, and a creek called the Water- which-cries, or the Weepin- 3e We continued liere to the 27th. — On the 24th tliere were some showers ; but during the re* wainder of the time there was clear weather. Our people were generally employed as before. The hunters killed five more deer ; and the two men returned from the Indian village, without finding any of the natives. 4 1 :i- On the 24th iring the re* car weather. d as before, and the two ige, without u CHAPTER IL From the 27th of July, to the 31st of August, 1804. m coniinue our Voyage. Pass Round^Knoh Creek Our Ilunlers kill a Prarow. Description of that Anmal Council Blujf, Captains Lewis and Clarice hold a Council with the Indians, Soldier's Creek Uttle Sioux, Our Hunters kill a Pelican, m land near the Maha Village, and catch abundance of Fish Hold a Council with the Maha Indians. Death of Sergeant Floyd. Rujfaloe Prairie. Whitcstone Creek Petit Ark Cr/ek. Groves of Ctton Wood. Sixty Sioux Indians visU us. We hold « Council with t/tcm. •'RIDAY 27th. -This forenoon we were en- |aged in loading the boats and .preparing to fcart. At 12, wc proceeded with a fair wind, id pleasant weather; went twelve miles, and icamped on a handsome prairie on the south |de. Saturday 28th.~We set out early ; had a loudy morning: passed some beautiful hills nd prairies, and a creek called Round-Knob jreek, on the north side ; and high bluffs on the D M! 34 south. We encamped on the north side. Here two of our hunters came to us, accompanied by one of the Oto Indians. Sunday 29th. — We embarke 1 early, and con- tinued our voyage. One of our Frenchmen went with the Indian to bring more of them to meet us at .jome convenient landing-place. At 12, one of our hunters came in with a deer and some €lk meat. We renewed our voyage at S, passed a bank, where there was a quantity of fallen timber, and encamped on the north side. Monday 30th.— Our grey horse died last night. We set out early, and the hunters met us with a deer. At 9, we came to some timber land at the foot of a high bluff, and encamped there in order to wait for the Indians. At the top of the bluff is a large hand:, me prairie, and a large pond, or small lake, about two miles from camp on the south side of the river. Two of our hunters went out and killed an aninial, cal- led a prarou', about the size of a ground hog and nearly of the same colour. It has a head similar to that of a dog, short legs and large claws on Its fore feet ; some of the claws are an inch and an half long. Our hunters again went out, but did not return tiiis day. Tuesday 31st. — One of our men went to visit some traps he had set, and in one found a young beaver, but little hurt, and brou«'ht it in alive. 35 In a short time he went out again and killed a large buck. Two other hunters came in about 12, who had killed two deer ; but lost the horses One of them with two other persons were sent out to hunt for them, who returned at dark with- out finding them ; and supposed they had been stolen by the Indians. Wednesday 1st Aug. IP04. -Three of our men agani went out to hunt for the horses, but returned without them. They brought a deer, and two of our other hunters killed two more. ' Thursday Sd.— Some hunters went out this morning ; and two of them returned with the horses and an elk they had killed. The others brought in two large bucks and a fawn. The Indians we expected, came at dark ; but our Frenchman was not with them. We supposed he had been lost. This place we named Council- Bluff, and by observation we found to be in latitude 4 r 17' north. Friday3d.-CaptainLewisand Captain Clarke held a council with the Indians, who appeared well pleased with the change of government, and what had been done for them. Six of them were made cniefs, three Otos and three Mis- souris. We renewed our voyage at 3 o'clock; went six miles and encamped on the south side ; where D 2 ai m 36 ■!!/,« we had a storm of wind and rain, which lasted two hours. Saturday 4th. — We were early under weigh this morning, and had a fair day. We passed a creek on the south side, which came out of the ponds. One of our men went out this morning and did not return : another came to us and brought a deer. We encamped on the south side. Sunday 5th. — We set out early, but a storm of rain and wind obliged us to stop two hours. It then cleared, and we continued our voyage ; passed prairies on both sides, and encamped on the north side. The river here it very crooked and winding. To arrive at a point only 370 yards from this place, the passage by water is twelve miles. Monday 6th. — We proceeded at an early hour this morning, after a stormy night of wind and rain ; passed a creek on the north side, at the back of an island, called Soldier's creek ; and encamped on the south side. Tuesday 7th. — We set out early this morning and continued our voyage till 12, when four of our people were dispatched to the Oto na- tion of Indians after the man who had not re- turned on the 4th, with orders to take him, dead ox alive, if they could sec him. There 97 is no timber in this country, except some cot- ton wood and M'illows in the bends of the river. All the high land is a continued prairie. We encamped on the north side. The mus- quitoes here are very numerous and trouble- some. Wednesday 8t]i.-~We embarkedearly, and pas- sed a small river on the north side, called Little Sioux. Captain Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt, and killed an elk. One of the hunters killed a pelican on a sand-bar, and Captain Lewis killed another, very large We encamped on the north bank. In a bag under the bill and neck of the pelican, which Cap- tain Lewis killed, we put five gallons of water. Thursday 9th.— The fog was so thick this morning, th.t we could not proceed before 7, when we went on under a gentle breeze, and,' having advanced eleven miles, came to a place where the river, by cutting through a narrow neck of land, reduced the distance fifteen miles. Captain Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt, and killed a small turkey. We encamped on the south side, where we found the mus- quitoes very troublesome. Friday lOth.-We embarked early, passed high yellow banks on the south side, and en- camped on the north. Saturday Ilth.—A storm came on at three : f * i'f 39 o*clock this morning, and continued till nine; notwithstanding which, we kept under weigh till ten, when we came to a high bluiF, where an Indian chief had been buried, and placed a flag upon a pole, which had been set up at his grave. His name was Blackbird, king of the Mahas ; an absolute monarch while living, and the Indians suppose can exercise the power of one, though de»d. We encamped in latitude 4'i'' 1' 3" .3, as ascertained by obser- vation. 1 Sunday 12th.— We embarked and got under weigh before day-light. The musquitoes last night were worse than 1 ever experienced. Wc went round a bend, of eighteen miles, the neck of which was only 974 yards across ; passed high bluffs of yellow clay on the south side of the river, and low land on the north ; and encamped on a sand island. Monday 13th.— We proceeded this morning with a fair wind ; and at 2, landed on a sandy beach, near the ]\faha village, on the south side of the river. A sergeant and one man were sent to the village, who did not return this day. Tuesday Uth.— Th-^ sergeant and man re- turned from the village; but they had found no Indians there. Some of our hunters went out, but killed nothing. Game apj)ear5 scarce 35 here. While at this place, we provided ourselves with a new mast, Wednesday I5th.— Captain Clarke and ten of the party went to the Maha creek to fish, and caught 387 fish of different kinds. We discovered smoke on the opposite side of the river, and four men crossed to see if any of the Mahas or Sioux Indians were there ; but could not discover any. There had been fire there some days, and the wind lately blowing hard, had caused the fire to spread, and smoke to rise. We continued at this place until the 20th. Captain Lewis went with a party of twelve men to fish, and took 7G9 fish, l57 of which were large pike. The fish here are ge- nerally pike, cat, sun-perch, and other com- mon fish. What we caught were taken with trails or brush nets. On the 18th, the party who had been sent in pursuit of the man who had been absent since the 4th, returned with him, and eight Indians and a Frenchman; but left our Frenchman behind, who had gone out to hunt the horses. On the 19th, a council was held with these Indians, who appeared to wish to make peace with all nations. Thit day Sergeant Floyd became very sick, and re- . maincd so all night, fie was seized with a complaint somewhat like a violent colick. Monday 20th. -Sergeant Floyd continued 1 1 tTI^^^^I f tiWn 40 very ill. We embarked early, and proceedrd, having a fair wind and fine weather, till 2 o'clock, Av^hen we landed for dinner. Here Sergeant Floyd died, notwithstanding every possible effort was made by thp commanding officers, and other persori ' ive his life. Wc went on about a mile to h.^ ,.iairie hills or the north side of the liver, and there interred his remains in the most decent manner our circum- stances would admit ; we then proceeded a mile further to a small river on the same side, and encamped. Our commanding officers gave it the name of Floyd's river ; to perpetuate the memory of the first man who had fallen in this important expedition. Tuesday 21st.— We set out early; passed handsome pale-coloured bluffs, willow creek and the Sioux river on the north side : and havino- come upwards of 20 miles, encamped on the south side, Wednesday 22d.— We proceeded early upon our voyage ; passed bluffs on the south side, where there is copperas, alum and ore of some kind ; also passed a creek. The high land on the south side for nine or ten miles runs close to the river, where there are cedar bluffs of various colour,^. We encamped on the north side. Thursday 23d,— We proceeded early this I 41 morning with a fair wind. The river here be^ conies more straight than we had found it for a great distance below. Captain Clarke and one of the men killed a deer and a bufFaloe, and •ome of the men were sent to dress and bring the bufFaloe to the boat. We stopped at a prairie on the north side, the largest and hand- somest which I had seen. Captain Clarke cal- led it BufFaloe prairie. The men having returned, we again went on ; but the wind changed and we were obliged to halt for the present. .While we were detained here, wc salted two barrels of bufFaloe meat. At five in the evening we proceeded some distance and encamped on the south side. Friday 24th. — This morning was cloudy with gome rain. Captain Clarke went by land. We passed cedar bluffs on the north side, a part of which were burning ; and there are here to be found mineral substances of various kinds. There is also a quantity of small red berries, the Indian name for which in English means rabbit berries. They are handsome small ber^ lies and grow upon bushes about 10 feet high. Captain Clarke came to^us and had killed two- elk and a fawn ; we passed a creek called White Stone creek; landed and remained here all night tojirk our meat. Saturday 25th.— Two of our men last ni slit \l 4t caught nine catfish, that would together weigh three hundred pounds. The large catfish arc caught in the Missouri with hook and line. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke went to see a hill on the north side of the river where the na- tiveswili not, or pretend that they will not, ven- ture to go, and say that a small people live there, vhom they are afraid of. At 1 1 o'clock, the gentlemen not having returned, we set sail with a gentle breeze from the S. E. ; passed black bluffs on the south side, and continued on nine miles and encamped. Two of our hunters came in who had killed a large elk. Captains Lewis »nd Clarke did not return this evening; Sunday 26th.— Some of the men went out to dress and bring in the elk. About 10 o'clock Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with the party accompanying them came to camp ; but had not been able to discover any of those small people. The hill is in a handsome prairie : and the party saw a great many buffaloe near it. About 11, we renewed our voyage and passed some timber land on the south side : and black and white bluffs on the same side; we encamped on the north side opposite a creek called Petit- Ark, or Little-bow. Monday 27th.— Got under weigh at sun-rise, and passed white bluffs on the south side. At- 5, we stopped for dinner, and an Indian of th« 43 5un-rise, Maha nation, who lives with the Sioux, came to us here at the mouth of the Sacque river ; and while we remained here, two more came in. A sergeant with our old Frenchman and another man went with two of the Indians to their camps, and the other went with us in the boat. We encamped on a sand-beach on the north side. Tuesday 28th.—- We set forward early. The day was pleasant, and a fair wind from S. E. At 8, we halted for breakfast, when our young Indian left us, to go to his camp at a handsome prairie, gently rising from the river on the north side ; a small distance above which arc beautiful groves of cotton wood on both sides of the river. About 12, one of the periogues ran against a snag, which broke a hole in it. We then crossed to the south side to mend the pe- riogue, and to wait to receive the Indians we expected ; and landed a little below some high bluffs. Our camp was in a wide bottom in which are large elm and oak trees. Wednesday 29th.— At 8 o'clock last night, 1 storm of wind and rain came on from the N. W.» and the rain continuet! the greater part of the niglit. The morning was cloudy with some thunder. We are generally well supplied with catfish, the best I have ever seen. Some large ones were taken last night. In the afternoon l-'l » I 'i: 44 tJrnT Tu ^"\^°'" '" '^' ^'"''■" ^'""P. «- turned and brought with ,hem ,my Indian, of tl.e S,oux nation. They encamped fcr the even- |ng upon the opposite shore, and some corn and tobacco were sent over to them. The ser,.eant »ho had gon. to their camp, informed me that the,r lodge, forty i„ number, are about nine mdes from the Missouri on the Sacque river. They are made of dressed buffaloe and elk sk.ns, painted red and white, and are very hand- some. He, said the women are liomely, and mostly 01,1 ; but the young men likely and ac- tive. They killed a dog as a token of friend- Ship. One of our men killed a deer. Thursday 30th.— A fog ,__ , - - --egy morning, and heavy dew; at nine o'clock the Indians came over the river. Four of them, who were muai- "ans, went backwards and forwards, through and round our camp, singing and making , noise. After that ceremony was over, ihey all sat in council. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke made five of them chiefs, and gave them some small presents. At dark, Captain Lewis gave them a grained deer-skin to stretch over a half keg for a drum. When that was ready, they all assembled round some fires made for the purpose : two of them beat on the drum, and some ot the rest had little bags of undressed skins dned, with beads or small pebbles in them, with 45 which they made a noise. These arc their in- struments of musick. Ten or twelve acted as musicians, while twenty or thirty young men and boys engaged in the dance, which was con- tinued during the night. No Squaws made their appearance among this party. Friday Slst.— A clear morning. The Indians remained with us all day, and got our old French- man to stay and go with their chief to the city of Washington. Some of them had round their necks strings of the white bear's claws, some of the claws three inches long. 4» CHAPTER m. From the Ist to the fSth of September, 1804. m proceed on our Voj/ase. An Ancient Fortification. Plumb Creek. White Paint Creek. Rapid Wat^ lin^er. Pania River. Proceed on our Voyage. Find 7 ""^rZ ^^"' ''^ ^""^ ^'''^ ''^''^ «^'«« Davs. Pass WhUe River. Encmnp and examine the Country, l^escriptton of its Animals. Continue our Vo vase. iL of our Men cross the neck of the Long or Grand Bend. ne reach the Termination of the Grand Bend. Pass ycr's Creek, a^d Cedar Island. Mr. Lucell's Cedar /or^ Pa„ an Indian Camp. Dog-Pofes. Pas, Elk Island. Meet with fftjy Indians ; Dispute with thern^ We go to their Camp. Description of them. A Dance. We lose our Anchor. Proceed on our Voi/age. t % 1 ! Saturday IstS-pt. 1804.--We renewed our voyage early; passed high bluffs on the south •J-''-- and highVrairielandon tlie north ; on this side, the liills come close to the river; and are so near on both sides, as not to be more than two miles from each otlier. During last night we had hard wind and some rain, which con- tinued to fall occasionally during the day.— . About 1 o'ciock, we passed a lich prairie on the 47 south side, and encamped on the north side, at the lower end of an island. Sunday €d.— At 1 o'clock last night, h^c had hard thunder, lightning, and rain ; which con- tinaed about two hours. We set out early in the morning, along the north side of the island : there is handsome prairie land on the south. Three of our men went on the island to hunt When we landed for breakfast, we heard several guns fired on the island, and sawsix elk swimming across the river, about a mile above where we had halted. Two of our men went up and killed one of them ; those on the island killed three. About 1«, the wind blew so hard down the river, that we could not proceed, and we landed on the north side, wliere there is an extensive prairie. It was cloudy and rained till 4, when it cleared up. We remainKl here for the night, and dried our meat. On the bank opposite our • camp is an ancient fortification, or breastwork, similar to those which have been occasionally discovered on the western waters. The two ends run at right angles to the river, and the outside, which is 2500 yards in length, parallel to itr there is no breast-work thrown up next to the river, the bank, as is supposed, serving as a suf- ficient defence on that side*. • • The description of this Breast-work corresponds exactJy wiU. tlae accounts given of numerous ancient fortifications, discoTered ia hM 48 Monday 3d.— We set out early, and had i clear day; passed yellow bluffs on the north «ide, and a small creek, called Plumb creek. Here the river turns at right angles to the left, till it reaches the hills on the south side, then winds gradually to the right. There is no tim- ber in this part of the country; but continued prairie on both sides of the river. A person, by going on one of the hills, may have a view as far as the eye can reach, without any obstruction, or intervening object ; and enjoy the most delight- ful prospects. During this day's voyage we found the hills on the opposite sides of the river, generally not more than two miles apart, the Western Country, wliicli are known and represented to be generally of an oblcng form, situate on strong and well-chosen ground, and contiguous to water. These works, from the examina- tions which have been ni^dc, are supposed to have been erected more than 1000 years ago; or 700 before the discovery of America by Columbus. They appear to have existed about the same period, throughout all, or the great, r part of that vast tract of country, bounded by the Allegiiany Mountains on the cast, and the Rocky Mountains on the west, and including the most favourable latitudes of North America. Perhaps some iiave been found east of the Alleghany Mountains. Have numerous ancient nations, more civilized and disposed to labour than any of the modern Indian tribes, inhabited tiiis country ? and have these fortifications beea (heir humble substitute, for the wallcd and fortified cities of the old world in remote ages? Or, has this been the Roman Empire of the new world? and h«» it been destroyed by other hordes of bar. barians, as fierce' and cruel as thos..' who destroyed that of the old? A9 and the river meandering through them in va- rious directions. We encamped on the south side. Tuesday 4th.— We proceeded early on our voyage, passed a creek on the south side, about 30 yards wide, called Paint creek ; and high yel- low bluffs on the same side. About a mile and a half farther, we passed another creek on the same side, 50 yards wide, called White-paint creek • and yellow bluffs oh the north side. About four miles higher up, we passed a river, on the south side, 152 yards wide, called Rapid -water river; up this river the Poncas nation of ludians lived not long since. We encamped on the south side, among some cedar trees. Wednesday 5th.-Wc set sail early this morn- ing with a fair wind, and had a clear day. We passed a long island covered with timber, and three men went to hunt on it. On the north side are yellow bluffs, out of which issue several beautiful springs. Opposite the head of the island, on the south side, flows in a river, called Pan.a river; and about three miles higher up on the north side, a creek, called Goat creekl' On the hills above this creek, we saw some goats or antelopes, which the French call ca- bres. About 4, we encamped on an island, where we made and put in a new mast. The three men who went to hunt on the long island, killed a 1 1 If ii 60 ■jl Hii i^< deer and an elk ; and two more went out from camp, and killed another deer and an elk, both young. Thursday 6th.— We set out early, and had a cloudy morning : passed a handsome bottom prai- rie on the north side; at the upper end of which is a grove of cotton wood, and a loug range of dark-coloured blufts on the south side. About 9 o'clock it began to rain, and we had strong wind a-head. Ihere are a great number of sand- bars, and we had much difficulty in getting along. W'e encamped on the north side, and oue of our men killed two deer. Friday 7th. — We set sail early, and had a clear day: passed higli prairie land on both sides; but there is some cotton wood on the low points in the bottoms. On the south side we found a scatfold of meat, neatly dried. This had been left by one of our men, who had gone out on the 26th of last month to hunt for the horses, and, supposing we had got a distance a-head, proceeded up the river several days jour- ney, before he discovered his error. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, with some of the men, went to view a round knob of a hill in a prairie ; and on their return killed a prairie dog, in size about that of the smallest species of I domestic dogs. Having understood that the village of those 51 small dogs was at a short distance froni our camp, Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with all the party, except the guard, went to it ; and took with them all the kettles and other vessels for holding water; in order to drive the animals out of their holes, by pouring in water: but though they worked at the business till night, they only caught one of them. Saturday 8th. -We proceeded early on our voyage, and had a clear day and fair wind from the S. E. Passed the bed o'f a creek without water. At 9, I went out with one of our men who had killed a buffaloe, and left his hat to keep off the vermin and beasts of prey; but when we came to the place, we found the wolves had devoured the carcase, and carried off the hat. Here we found a white wolf dead, sup- posed to have been killed in a contest for the buffaloe. We passed high bluffs on the south side, and burnt prairie on the north. We en- camped on an island covered with timber, and having a nu.nber of buffaloe on it. Captain Lewis who had been out with some of the men hunting, informed us, he had passed a trading house, built in 1796. This day we killed two buffaloe, a large and a small elk, a deer, and two beaver. Sunday .9th. --We set out early, and passed two small creeks on the north side, high bluffs E 2 lii * ■■■'^1 I i' I I '■ 32 on the south, and at one o'clock landed for din- ner at a small creek on the south side. One of our hunters brought in a deer an^I two fawns. This day we saw several gangs, or herds, of buf- faloe on the sides of the hills ; one of our hun- ters killed one, and Captain Clarke's black ser- vant killed two. We encamped at sunset on the south side. Monday 10th.— We had a foggy morning, but moved on early ; passed high bluffs on the north side, and sa\V some timber in the bottom on the south side. At 12, we came to black sul- phur blufts on the south side. On the top of these bluffs we found the skeleton or back bones of a fish, 45 feet long, and petrified: part of these bones were sent to the city of Washington. One of our sergeants discovered a large salt spring, about a mile and a half from the river. A hunter went up the bank and killed an elk. We left a periogue for the men who were dressing the elk, and proceeded up the north side of the river two miles, when we were obliged to return on ac- count. of sand-bars, and to take the south side. Here we saw eight elk swimming the river, and had seen a great many biiffaloe during tlve day. We encamped on an island and killed one buf- faloe. Tuesday 11th. —We set sail before day-lio-ht with a fair wind : passed an islaiid covered with S3 timber, and high hills and prairie on both sides of the river. At 1 o'clock it began to rain. We saw some person coming down the river on horseback when we came to land, and found it was the man who had preceded us with the horses. He had left one of the horses that had .ailed. We now had only one horse left This man had been absent 16 days, and his bullets being expended, he subsisted 12 days, almost wholly on grapes. TJie hills here come close to the river on both sides. One of the men went hy land with the liorse, and we continued our voyage until niglit, though it rained very hard- ^nd encamped on the south side. Captain Clarke with two or three of the men who had gone out to hunt, killed two elk, four deer, and one porcupine. Wednesday ISth—VVe set out as usual, and had a cloudy day ; passed a long range of black bluffs on the south side, and an island covered w.th timber, which is all the timber that can be seen from this place. The country round is all hills and prairie. Captain Clarke, myself, and another, went out to bunt, and did not return till after " passing, „„ account of the sand-bars and strong current, and did not make to-day more ■than four miles. Thursday 13th._Four beav«- were taken if r PI . - 54 vm last night We set sail early ; the morning was cloudy, with some rain and wind a-head ; passed a creek, and a long range of bluffs on the south side. Some of our men went out to hunt ; but did not return this evening. We encamped on the north side. > Friday 14th. — We proceeded as yesterday, and with the same kind of weather. Had con- siderable difficulty in getting along, on account of the shallowness of the river ; all hands in the water dragging the boat. At 8, we halted for breakfast, and the men who went to hunt yes- terday came in, and had only killed a porcupine.^ Three beaver were caught last night. The mus- quitoes are as troublesome as they have been any time in summer. We passed black bluffs on the south side, and an island with timber on it. Passed a creek on the same side, and en- camped on it. The man Avho had gone by land with the horse came to us here; 1 e had killed a hare. Captain Clarke killed a goat or antelope. Saturday 15th. — A cloudy morning. We continued our voyage earl}^ and passed a creek on the south side, and black bluffs on the north. Passed White river on the south side ; one of the men and myself went up it, to examine the country, and encamped about twelve miles from the mouth, where it is ].oO yards broad. We found good bottoms on this creek ; but timber ss scarce, and none upon the hilU. The current and colour of the water are much like those of the Missouri. Sunday l6th. — We set out for the boat across the hills, on the tops of which are level plains with a great number of goats and buffuloe on them. Came to the head waters of a creek, and kept down it a S.E. course, and on our way killed three deer. We proceeded on to its mouth, which I computed to be 14 miles from that of the White river. Having found the boat had passed, we proceeded up the river, and came to a handsome bottom, where our peo- ple had encamped to dry tlie provisions and stores. In our absence the men had killed some deer, and two bufFaloe. Monday 17th.— As the weather was fair, we remained here during the day. Captain Lewis and some men went out to hunt, and killed thir- teen common and two black-tailed deer, three buffaloe, and a goat. The wild goat in this country differ from the common tame goat, and is supposed to be the real antelope. The black- tailed, or mule deer, have much larger ears than the common deer, and tails almost without hair, except at the end, where there is a bunch of black hair. There is another species of deer in this country with small horns and long tails. The tail of one which we killed, was 18 inches m 'it f? :>;+ H I '" ,? S6 long. One of our men caught a beaver, and killed a prairie wolf. » These are a small species of wolves, something larger than a fox, with Iq;ig tails an(^ short ears. Tuesday 1 8th. — We continued our voyage ; the day was clear and pleasant: passed some timber land on the south side, and hills and prairies on the north ; also an island and a great number of sand-bars. Yesterday Cap- tain Lewis, while hunting, killed a bird not common in the states : it is like a magpie, and is a bird of prey. This day we killed eleven deer and a wolf, and halted and encamped on the south side of the river in order to jirk our meat. Wednesday l()th— We set out early and had a clear day, passed large bottoms on both sides of the river, covered with timber. We saw some buifaloe swimming the river, and killed two of them. There is an island here, opposite which, a Hirer flows in on the north side. This J-iver is formed of three, which unite their waters just above its mouth j and immediately above the confluence is a crossing pjace, called the Sioux-crossing-pjace of thp three rivers. At the upper end, a creek, called Elm creek, comes in on the south side, and twp miles abpve ano- ther creek, called Wash creek, falls in on the same side. About two miles further we passed 67 another creek, called Night creek ; where we encamped on the south side. Ihree black-taiU cd deer were killed this day. Thursday 20th.— We renewed our voyage at an early hour, and had a clear day and fair wind. Passed handsome rising prairies on the north side, and bottoms covered with timber on the south side. Two of the men, with the horse, went across the neck of the Long, or Grand bend, which we were obliged to go round with the boat, a distance of 30 miles. At one o'clock we stopped for dinner, and Captain Lewis and one of the men went to hunt. Captain Clarke had gone out in the morning. At S, we proceeded again on our voyage, and passed a long chain of bluffs on the north side, of a dark colour. From these and others of the same kind, the Missouri gets its muddy colour. The earth, of which they are composed, dissolves like sugar ; every rain washes down great quan- tities of it, and the rapidity of the stream, keeps it mixing and afloat in the water, until it reaches the mouth of the Mississippi. We en- camped at 7 o'clock on a sand -beach on the north side. Here Captain Lewis, Captain Clarke, and the other man joined us. They had killed two goats and two deer. At I o'clock at night, the bank where we were stationed, began to fall so much, that we were obliged to rouse all ' i handi, and go on a mile and eroM tht river, before we could again encamp. Friday 21st.— We sot out early, the day waa clear; and we proceeded on four miles along bluffs on the south side, when we came to the termination of the Grand hend, about a mile from the place of our encampment on the 19th. — We again went on, liaving black bluffs on the south, and a handsome bottom on the north side ; and beyond these a csdar bottom on the south side, and bluffs on the north; passed a creek on the south side, called Tyler's creek; and encamped on the north side. Saturday i3£d.~We embarked early in a foggy morning, saw some timber on the south ' side, and- high plains on tl)c north. About 3 o'clock we passed Cedar island, one of the Three- Sisters, where Mr. Lucelle had built a fon of cedar. The space picketed in Is about 65 or 70 feet square, with sentry-boxes in two of the angles. The pickets are 13 1-^ifeet above ground Jn this square he built a house 46 1-2 by 3'i 1-2 feet, and divided it into four equal parts, on» ioT goods, one to trade in, one to be used as a common hall, and the other for a family-house. Mere the two men came to us with the horse. They had killed a white wolf and some deer. We proceeded 011, passed a creek, and islands of tJie Three-Sisters; and an old Indian camp, « ■ where we fouml some of their ilog-pole», which answer for setting poles. The reason they are called dog-poles, is hecause the Indians fasten their dogs to them, and make them draw them from one camp to another, loaded with skins and other articles*. We encamped on the. north side. Sunday 23d. — We went on early, and had a clear morning ; passed some timber on the north side, and high land on the south ; also a creek on the north side, called Smoke creek ; passed Elk island, a handsome bottom on the north side, covered with timber, and barren hills on the louth. At six in the evening, we saw four Indians on the south side, and encamped on the north. Three of the Indians swam over to us : they belonged to the Sioux, and informed us that there were more of their nation not far distant. We sent them over the river again. One of our men killed an antelope. * Mr. Mackfenzie speaking of the Knisteneaux, a numerous na- tion of Indians spread over a vast extent of country, extending south-westerly from the coast of Labrador, north of the St. JLay- rence and its lakes, and the lake Winnipic, east of Elk river, south of the Lake of the Hills, and west, south, and east, of James's bay, and the southern part of Hudson's bay, says, " In the win- ter when the waters are frozen, they make their journeys, whituare never of any great length, with sledges drawn by dogs." it Grmral History of the Fur Trade. 00 Monday 24th.~Wc set sail wrly with fair leather, and passed a small creek on the south aide. About 3 o'clock, the man m ho had gone hy land with rhe horse came to us, and inrormcd us tliat he had gone that morning on an island to kill elk, and that while he was there, the Indians had stolen the horse. He had killed three elk, and the periogues remained bdiind to bring on the meat. We saw five Indians on the- bank, but we could nat understand each other. We cast anchor to M'ait for the periogues; one of which having come up, we went on to the mouth of the Tinton or Teeton river, where we anchored about 100 yards from the shore on the ^outJi side. TJie guard and cooks only landed, the rest slept in the boat. The five Indians re' mained with us all night. We had a French- man aboard a periogue, who understood and could speak a little of the Sioux language. The Indians gave us to understand the chiefs would come to-morro^^', and that if their young men had t^ien the horse, they would have liim'^given up. These Indians are a band of the Sioux called the Tinton or Teeton Hand. Tuesday 25th.~We stayed here to wait for ey said they were poor, and wished to keep the periogue with them. Captain Clarke insisted on coming to the boat ; but tliey refused to let him, and said they had soldiers as well as he had. He told them his soldiers were good, and that he had more medicine aboard his boat than would kill twenty such nations in one day. After this they did not threaten any more, and said they only wanted us to stop at their lodge, that the women and children might see the boat. Four of them came aboard ; when we proceeded on a mile, and cast anchor at the point of an island in the middle of the river. The Indians remained with us all night. Wednesday 26'th.--We set out early, and proceeded on four miles. The bank of the river on the south side was covered all the way with Indians; and at 10 o'clock we met the whole band, and anchored about 100 yards from the shore. Captain Lewis, the chiefs, and some men we.it on shore, the Indians were peaceable and kind. After some time Captain Lewis re- turned on board, and Captain Clarke went on shore. When the Indians saw him coming, they met him with a butfaloe robe, spread it out, and i.i ,.■1 'It 5fi fi , i made him get into it, and then eight of them carried him to the cpuncil- house. About an hour after, some of them came for Captain Lewis and he landed; and eight of them carried him tj the council-house in the same manner they had carried Captain Clarke. They killed several dogs for our people to feast on, and spent the greater part of tlie day in eating and smoking. At night the women assembled, and danced till 1 1 o'clock : then the officers came on board with two chiefs, who continued with us until the morninjr. Thursday 27th.~-We remained here all day. Capt. Lewis, myself, and some of the men, went over to the Indian camp. Their lodges are about eighty in number, and contain about ten persons each ; the greater part women and chil- dren. The women were employed in dressing biiftaloe skins, for clothing for themselves, and for covering their lodges. They are the most friendly people I ex er saw ; but will pilfer, if they have an opportunity. They are also very dirty; the M^ater they make use of, is carried in the paunches of the animals they kill, just as they are emptied, without being cleaned. They gave us dishes of victuals of various kinds; I had n-.ver seen any thing like some of these dishes, nor could I tell of what ingredients, or how the^ were made. 65 About 15 days ago, they had a battle with the Mahas, of whom they killed 75 men, and took Q5 women prisoners, whom they have now with them. They promised to Capt. Lewis, that they would send the prisoners back, and make peace. - About 5 o'clock, we went aboard the boat, accompanied with the old chief and his little son! In the evening, Captain Clarke and some of the men went over, and the Indians made prepara- tions for a dance. At dark it commenced. \p- tain Lewis, myself, and some of our party went up to see them perform. Their band of music, or orchestra, was composed of about 12 persons beating on a buffaloe hide, and shaking small bags that made a rattling noise. They had a large fire in the centre of their camp-; on one side the women, about 80 in number, formed in a solid column round the lire, with sticks in their hands, and the scalps of the Mahas they had killed tied on them. They kept moving, or jumping round the fire, rising and failing on both feet at once; keeping a continual noise, Singing and yelling. lu this manner they con- tinned till 1 o'clock at^night, when we returned to the boat with two of the chiefs. On coming aboard, the periogue ran across the bow of the boat, and broke the cable. All hands were roused to row the boat ashore; the chiefs called M m 64 I ' aloud, and a number of tha warr; rs came to our assistance, but we did not need it : the cir- cumstance, however, shewed their disposition to be of service. This unfortunate accident lost us our anchor. Friday 28th. — This morning we dragged the river all round where the boat lay, but could not find the anchor. At 9 o'clock we made pre- parations to sail ; some of the chiefs^ were on board, and concluded to go some distance with lis. When we went to shove off, some of the Indians took hold of the rope, and would not let it go. This conduct had like to be attended with bad consequences, as Captain Lewis was near giving orders to cut the rope, and to fire on them. The chiefs, however, went out and talked witii them : they said they wanted a carrot of to- bacco, and that if we gave that, we might go. The tobacco was given them, and we went ofFun- der a gentle I)rceze of wind. We passed high land, on the north .side, and bottom on the south. We proceeded 4 miles, and then saw an Indian fol- lowing us along the beach, when Captain Lewis went in a periogue, and brought him on board. He informed us that :)(){) more Indians had come to their oamp, and desired r^e should stop and tj.lk with them. We did not then stop, but proceeded on, and he remained on board. We passed a fine bottom covered with timber on the 65 north side, and bare hills on the south We made t\v^o large stones serve the purpose of an anchor, and at sunset anchored for the night, near a small sand-bar in the middle of the river. While I was at the Indian camp yesterdayi they yoked a dog to a kind of car, which they have to haul their baggage from one camp to another; the nation having no settled place or village, but are always moving about * The dogs are not large, much resemble a wolf, and will haul about 70 pounds each. * It appears that these people (in some respects resembling the wandering Arabs) are an unsettled, ferocious, blood-thirsty nee, and have been great destroyers of the Algonquin nation, who ia- habil the country about Lake Superior. Mr. M'Kenzie states the following circumstance. " Within three miles of the last portage" (a place near Lake Superior) " is a remrjkable rock, with a smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts, which hang over the water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great number of arrows have been shot, which is said to have been done by a war party of the Nadowasis or Sioux, who had done much mischief in this country, and left these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that, notwithstanding its lakei, rivers, and rocks, it was not inaccessible to tlieir enemies." General History of the Fur Trade. Il m Si iM 6() CHAPTER IV. From the 29tli of September, to the 23d of October, 1804. Renew our Voyage. Arrive at the Nation of the Art- emis. Pass the Dog River. Speak with an Indian cf the Jonkta, or Baharole Band. Pass Ted Creek. Cer-wer-cer-na River. Marapa River. London an Island, belonging to the Rickaree Nation. Descrip- tion of their lodges. Hold a council with them. Pro- ceed on our Vot/age. Arrive at the second and third Village of the Rickarces. Our communication with them. Pass onwards. Pond River. Meet with a hunting party of the Rickarces. A party of Indians visit us. Pass Cannon-ball River. And Fish Creek, Chischect River. Meet with Sioux Indians. ■ Saturday 29th.— We set sail early, and had fair weather ; passed a handsome bottom covered with timber on the north side, and bluffs on the south. We saw several Indians on the south side walking up the shore; spoke to them, and found they were some of those we left yesterday. There were one or two of the chiefs with them. They requested us to give them a Currot of tobacco, for the chiefs of the 67 other band to smoke. We sent them rots to a sand-bar, where they coujd two car- ^ — „,^ g^et it; but told them we should not go on shore again, until we came to the nation of the Aricaris,' commonly called Rickarees, Rickrees, or Rees. The iMissouri is very shallow at this time, and full of sand.bars. We passed an old village on the south side, where the Rickarees lived five years ago, and raised corn in the bottom, around the village. We encamped on a sand-beach on the south side of the river. Sunday 30th.— We set out early in a cloudy morning; passed black bluffs on the south side, and handsome bottom prairie on the north; saw an Indian on the shore, and the chief we had on board spoke to him. He said, he wished to come on board, and go with us to the Rees • but we did not take him. The wind was fair' and we made 9 miles by 10 o'clock. We saw a great number of Indians coming down to the river on the south side. We stopt for breakfast about 200 yards from the shore ; then proceeded about a mile ; near to the place where the In- dians were encamped on the south side; we halt- ed and sj)oke to them, and then went on under a fine breeze of wind. A short time before night, the waves ran very high, and the boat rocked a great deal, wliich so alarmed our old chief, that he would F 2 I III * M r\ 68 not go any further. We encamped on the north side. Monday 1st Oct. 1804. — We early continued our voyage, the morning was cloudy, but the wind fair, and we sailed rapidly. At 9, we pas- sed the river De Chien, or Dog River; a large river that comes in on the south side. A short dis- tance above this river, the sand-bars are so nu- merous, that we had great dilliculty to get along : and encamped on one in the middle of the river. There were some French traders on the other bank of the river, and one of them came over and remained with us all night. Tuesday 2d. — We set sail before day-light, A Frenchman came on board, who could speak English. He mentioned it as his opinion, that we should see no more Indians until we should anive at the nation of Rees. We passed a range of black bluffs on the north side, and a large bottom on the south, where there was some tim- ber on the bank of the river. About 2 o'clock we discovered some Indians on the hills on the north side, and one of them came down to the bank and fired a gun ; the object or intention we did not well understand, but were ready to meet an attack. We passed black bluffs on the south side, an island covered with timber, and a handsome bottom on the north side. We halted and spoke to the Indian, who said he be- longed to the Jonkta or Babarolc band, and that there were 20 lodges of them. We told him we had seen two of their chiefs, and given them a flaf,' and medal. We passed a creek on the south side, and encamped on a sand-bar in the middle of the river. Wednesday 3d. -The morning Avas cloudy, and some rain fell. The land is higli on both sides of the river. About 12 o'clock the wind began to blow so hard down the stream, that we were unable to proceed, and we halted un- der some high bluffs, where drift-wood was plenty. At*^ we continued our voyage; passed a long range of dark-coloured bluffs on the south side and bottom, with some timber on the north. We encamped on the south side. Thursday 4th. -^ We set out early ; but were obliged to return to the place where we halted yesterday at 12, and to take the other side of the river; the water was so shallow, and sand- bars so numerous. At 9 o'clock an Indian swam across the river to see us, when we stop- ped for breakfast. We Informed him that we were not traders, that we ha4sccn his chief, and told him all we had to say. We proceeded on, passed a creek on the south side, called Teel creek, and encamped on the upper part of an island. Friday 5th. —This morning there was a white ! . m in mm i frost ; the day clear and pleasant. About 1 1, we saw some goats swimming the river ; when one of our hunters ran up the shore and killed four of ihern, and we took them into the boat and pe- riogues as they floated down. We passed a creek on the north side, called Hidden creek, and high black bluffs on the south side*. Some of our hunters having gone on an island to hunt, scared a prairie wolf into the river, -wriich we killed. M'e passed a creek on the south side, called White Goat creek, ami encamped on the north side. Saturday 6th. — We continued'^ our voyagfe early, and had a clear day ; passed bluffs on the south side, and a bottom covered with timber on the north. About 11, we passed a handsonne bottom, where a band of the Rees lived last winter. They had left a number of round huts covered with earth, some of their water-craft made of buffaloe hides, and some garden trnck, such as squashes. We proceeded on and passed a small creek on the south side ; a handsome bottom on the north ; and encamped on a sand- beach on the north side. * To prevent mistakes, owing to the ''ery winding course of the river, starboard side and larboard side were made use of in the original journal, instead of north side and south side, during the remainder of the voyage up the Missouri ; but have been changed to north side and south side, as being better understood, and suf- ficiently representing the general course of the river. 71 Sunday 7th.-- We set forward early and liad a clear day : passed a willow bottom on the south side, and a creek on the north. At the beginning of some trmhtr land we passed a small river on the south siile, called Cer-wer-cer-na, about 90 yards wide. It is not so sandy as the Missouri, and the water is clear, with a deep channel. At the mouth of this river is a win- tering camp of the Rickarees, of 6{) lodges. We saw two Sioux Indians on the north side, gave them some meat, and proceeded on. We passed an island, on which Captain Clarke and one of the men went to hunt and killed a deer and a prarow. We encamped on the north side opposite the head of the island. Monday 8th.~The morning was pleasant and we set out early: passed high land on the south side and bottom on the north. The river here is very shallow and full of sand-bars. We pas- scd a run on the south side called Slate-run. Two of our hunters went out to some timber land on the north side to look for game. At 12, we came to a river on the south side, 120 yards wide, called the Marapa, where we halted for dinner. The hunters came up, but had killed nothing. We passed a long range of hills on the north side ; 'about two miles from the Marupa we passed a creek i^5 yards wide; and about four miles further came to an island, I i \ n where one band of the Rickarees live ; and en- camped at the unr-pr end. Tuesday o V i ' -» day was stormy, and we remained here, preparing to hold a council with the nation. Captain Lewis with some of the men went down to their lodges, and were us^d very kindly and friendly. Two Frenchmen live with them, one to trade and the other to interpret. Wednesday 10th. — This day I went with some of the men to the lodges, about 60 in number. The ibllowing is a description of the form of these lodges and the manner of build- ing them. t In a circle of a siz suited to the dimensions of the intended lodge, they set up 16 forked posts five or six feet high, and lay poles from one fork to another. Against these poles they lean other poles, slanting from the ground, and extending about four inches above the cross poles : these are to receive the ends of the upper poles, that support the roof. They next set up four large forks, fifteen feet high, and about ten feet apart, in the middle of the area; and poles or beams between these. The roof poles are then laid on, extern ang from the lower poles across the beams, which rest on the mid- dle forks, of such a length as to leave a hole at the top for a chimney. 1 he whole is then 75 y, and we uncil with )me of the were us. d frenchmen »e other to I'ent with mt 60 in ion of the ' of build- limensions 16 forked oJes from >ole8 they ! ground, ibove the ids of the 'hey next aigh, and the area; The roof the lower the mid- ve a hole 2 is then covered with willow branches, except the chim- ney and a liole below to pass through. On the willow branches they lay grass and la-'ly day. At the hole below they build a pen about four feet wide and projet^ting ten feet from the hut ; and hang a buffaloe skin, at the entrance of the hut for a door. This labour like every other kind is chiefly performed by the squaws. They raise corn, l^eans, and tobacco. Their tobacco is different from any I had before seen : it answers for smoking, but not for chewing. On our return, I crossed from the island to the boat, with two squaus in a buffaloe skiu stretched on a frame made of boughs, wov- together like a crate or basket for that purpose. Captasii Lewis and Captain Clarke held a coun- cil with the Indians, and gave them some presents. Thursday 11th. —A clear day. We waited for an answer from the Indians. About 12 o'clock, they came, and brouglit some corn, beans, md squashes, which they presented t( us. The chief said he was glad to see us, an* wished our commanding-officers would speak a good word for the to the Mandans ; for fhey wanted to be at peace N.iththem. These arc the best-looking Indians I have ever seen. At 1 o'clock P. M. we proceeded on our voyage ; passed a creek on the sonth side iO yards wide, i 74 hi::, m I ij ^ 'I and a Ijandsorne bottom covered with timber. Havino- made about four miles, we came to the second village of the Uickarees, situated in a prairie on tlie south side. They had the American flag hoisted, which Captain Lewii gave them yesterday. Their lodges arc similar to those in the first village, and the same, or perhaps more, in number. They are the most cleanly Indians I have ever seen on the voyage; as well as the most friendly and industrious. We anchored about 50 yards from shore, and sent a periogue over tlie river for wood. Wc all slept on board except the cooks, who went on shore to prepare provisions for tlie next day. Friday 12th.-^We had a pleasant morning, and remained here the forenoon to hear the chief of this village speak. Last night the Indians stole an axe from our cook, which of course in .some degree diminished our confidence, and lessened the amicable character we had con' ceivedofthem. At nine o'clock, Captain Lewis, Captain Clarke, and myself, xvent to the second village, and talked with its chief; then to the tlnrd village, about half a mile beyond a small creek, and talked with the chief' of that vil- lage ; and got some corn and beans from them. The third village is nearly of the same size of the second, and has in it a great number o^ :■• 75 handsome and smart women and children : the men arc mostly out hunting. Ahout 12, wc left the village and proceeded on our voya<^c. One of the natives agreed to go with us as far as the Maudaiis. We encamped on the north side. After dark wc heard some person halloo- ing on the opposite shore ; and a pcriogue went over and brought an Indian and two squaws, who remained with us all night. Saturday 13th.-- We proceeded on early and had a cloudy day ; passed Pond River on the nortli side, about 50 yards wide. One of the squaws went on with us. At 12, it rained slowly, and we halted to hold a court martial. At 2, continued our voyage, and did not get landing until after dark, the hank was so high and steep on one side, and the water so shallow on the other. Wc encamped on the north side. Sunday 1 4th.— We had a cloudy morning and some rain. We proceeded early on our voy- age; passed a bottom covered with timber on the south side and low ground covered with willows on the north ; passed a creek and black bluffs on the south side, and encamped on the north. It rained slowly during the whole of the day. Monday ljth.~It rained all last night, and we set out early iu a cloudy morning. At 7, we saw a hunting party of the Rickarees, on i 76 way down to the villages. They had 12 buffaloe-skin canoes or boats, lad,en with meat and skins ; besides some horses that weregoino- down the bank by land. They gave us a part of their meat. The party consisted of men, women, and children. At 8, we went on again ; passed a fine bottom covered with cotton wood on the north side, and naked hills oh the south. About 10, we saw another party of hunters, who asked us to eat and gave us some meat. One of these requested to speak with our young squaw, who for some time hid herself, but at last came out and spoke with him. She then went on shore and talked with him, and gave him a pair of ear-rings and drops for leave to come with us ; and when the horn blew for all hands to come on-board, she left them c^nd came to the boat. We passed a creek on the south side, and encamped at dusk on the north ; where there was a party of Indians about -30 in number. Our squaw re- mained with this party : they gave us som a I i lii i ■iiii 4 I 'I ■ li t 86 made shed-fashion, rising from the inner side, and making the outer wall about 18 feet high. The part not inclosed by the huts we intended to picket. In the angle formed by the two rows of huts we built two rooms, for holding our provisions and stores. About the 1 6th, the weather becam^ very cold, and the ice began to run in the river. We sent a Frenchman down to enquire about the hunters and the periogue. He and one of the hunters returned to the fort, having left the periogue and the rest about 30 miles below. The Frenchman was sent doNt'u again with a rope, and returned by land. On the 19th, the hutiters came up with the periogue, loaded with the meat of about thirty deer, eleven elk, and some buffaloe. In the cold weather we moved into the huts, though not finished. From the SOth to the 27th we had fine pleasant weather, and on the evening of the latter, finished the Poofs of our huts. These were made of pun- eheon^ split out of cotton wood, and then hewed. The cotton-wood resenjbles the Lombardy pop- lar, and is a light soft wood. The largest trees are iiv thickness about eighteen inches diameter. On the night of the 37th the snow fell seven iiiches deep, and the 28th was stormy. Thursday 2f|rh. —This day was. clear, but cold. We went to unrig the boat, and by an 87 accident ^i!^ of the serpeant'- had his shoulder dislocatet The 30th, the weather continued the same. Early in the n *" this day, we sa / an Indian on the opj .-^Uc side of the river, and brought him over. He informed us, that, a few davs a^ , eight of his nation were out hunting, and were attacked by a party of the Sioux tribe, who killed one, and wounded two more ; and also carried off their horses. Captain Clarke and. twenty-' ee men imme- diately set out with an intention of pursuinaj the murderers. They went up to the firs*^ vil- lage of the Mandans, but their warriors did not seem disposed to turn out. They suggested the coldness of the weather; that the Sioux were too far goae to be overtaken ; and put off the expedition to the spring of the year. Captain Clarke and his party returned the same evening to the fort. We have been daily visited by the Indians since we came here. Our fort is called Fort Mandan, and by observation is in latitude 47. 21'. 32. 8. • ♦ The course of the Missouri, and distances of places on it appear to be very erroneously laid down upon the maps of Louisi- ana generally. On these the villages of the Mandans are placed, in about 43 1-2 degrees of north htitudc, and 112 1-? of west longitude, from Greenwich. This would place them about 500 miles nearer the mouth of the Columbia, on the Pacific ocean, than t1ie mouth of the Missouri ; s\ipposing the mouth of the Columbia to be about 124 degrees west crif London. Bu'. the nearest prac- f'^j^^l • I t } ' • m *#. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // '^ 1.0 I.I 1^ I4S m 110 _ L25 i 1.4 6" M 2.2 IM 1.6 Pm. V] .^^ '^A >^ l»hn,e.t, which „« „„ between Hud.on's ft,l 1T\ ™"" '""""y- '""««' 5S Tuesday 18th. — A very cold day. SixofuS went out to look for the buftaloe ; but could see nothing but some goats. At 9» we returned and found the men from the N. W. Company had set out on their return, notwithstanding the severity of the weather. Wednesday 19th. — This was a more pleasant day, and we began to set up the pickf '^s. The 20th and 21st, were quite warm and pleasant, and we advanced with our work. Saturday 22d. — The weather continued clear, pleasant and warm. A great number of the natives came with corn, beans and mockasins to trade, for which they would take any thing —old shirts, buttons, awls, knives, and the like articles. Sunday 23d. — The weather continued plea- sant, and we proceeded in our operations in setting up the pickets. Monday 24'th. — Some snow fell this morning; about ten it cleared up, and the weather became pleasant This evening we finished our fortifi- cation. Flour, dried apples, pepper and other articles were distributed in the different messes to enable them to celebrate Christmas in a proper and social manner. Tuesday 25th. — The morning was ushered in by two discharges of a swivel, and a round of small arms by the whole corps. Captain Clarke then presented to each man a glass of ■J I f l!l •'^ * I'. a4 brandy, and wc hoisted the American flag in the garrison, and its first waving in fort Mandan was celebrated vith another gIass.-The men then cleared out one of the rooms and com- menced dancing. At ten o'clock we had another glass of brandy, and at one a gun was fired as a signal for dinner. At half past two, another gun was fired, as a notice to assemble at the dance, which was continued in a jovial manner till eight at night ; and without the presence of any females, except three squaws, wives to our interpreter, Avho took no other part than the amusement of looking on. None of the natives c.^me to the garrison this day j the commanding officers having requested they should not, which was strictly attended to. During the remainder of the month we lived in peace and tranquillity in the garrison, and were daily visited by the natives.. ■*-r 96 CHAPTER VI. From the 1st of January, to the 5th of April, 1805. ffe celebrate New Yearns Day. Indian Method of keep' ins; their Horses during the Winter. Severity of tkt Weather. The Assinoboins, We visit the Villages. Superstition of the Natives. Our Traffic mth them. We encamp on the South Side of the Missouri. Rf turn to the Fort. Our Men robbed by a pasiy of Indians. We pursue them. The Sioux declare War against us. We prepare for a renewal of our Voyage. Manners of the Fair Sex of tht Missouri. Their Chastity. »■■! h' Tuesday ist Jan. I805. — Two shot were fired from the swivel, followed by a round of small arms, to welcome the New Year. Captain Lewis then gave each a glass of good old whiskey; and a short time after, another was given by Captain Clarke. About eleven o'clock, one of the interpreters and halfof our people, M'ent up, at the requeit of the natives, to the village, to begin the dance; and were foUowcii »onie t^ma *ftfir,t)jr . , I ■ I i •\ \ ': i'!i ! k. i; t i ii li- 96 Captain Clarke, and tlirec more men. The day was warm and pleasant. Captain Lewis in the afternoon issued another glass of whis- kcy; and at night Captain Ckirkc and part of the men returned from the village, the rest ^ remained all night. Wednesday 2d. -Some snow fell this morn^ mg. The men, who remained at the village Jast night, returned. Captain Lewis, myself, and some others, went up to the second village and amused ourselves with dancing, &c the greater part of the day. I„ the evening we in general returned, and a great number of the natives, m?n, women and children, came to see us, and appeared highly pleased. This day I discovered how the Indians keep their horses during the winter. In the day- time they are permitted to run out and gather what they can; and at night are brought into the lodges, with the natives themselves, and fed upon cotton- wood branches: and in this way are kept in tolerable case. Thursday 3d.— From this to the ISth, the weather was generally very cold ; but our hun- tcrs were frequently out. One of them killed a beautiful white hare. These animals are said to be plentiful. We killed a small buffaloe, three elk, four deer, and two or three wolves. Three of the hunters going to a distance down the river. .97 i » w kiiicd nothing for two days, but a wolf, which they were obliged to eat ; and said they re- lished it pretty well, but found it rather tough. A number of the natives being out hunting in a very cold day, one of them gave out on hit return in the evening; and was left in the plain or prairie, covered with a buffaloe robe. After some time he began to recover and re- moved to the woods, where he broke a number of branches to lie on, and to keep his body off the snow. In the morning he came to the fort, with his feet badly froien, and the officers un- dertook his cure. Sunday 13th. — A clear cold day. A number of the natives went down the river to hunt with our men. In the evening one of our interpreters ' and another Frenchman who had gone with him to the Asiiniboins for fur returned. They had their faces so badly frost-bitten that the skin came off, and their guide was so badly frozen that they were obliged to leave him with the Assiniboins. This nation live near the Rocky Mountains, and about 90 miles from fort Mandan*. i: * It is presumed, no part of the great chain of Rocky Moun* tains comes as near as 90 miles to fort Mandan ; but it is not im- probable that there may be a mountain, connected with them, which runs a considerable distance eastward along the great divi- ding ridge ; and on some maps a mountain is laid down running «ast H i •> If ■ J 11 5« ^ Monday 14tli. — Some snow fell this njorn- ing. Six more hunters went out to join those with the natives. In the evening one of the hunters that first went out, returned. They had killed a buffaloe, a wolf, and two porQupine ; and one bf the men had got his feet so badly frozen that he was unable to come to the fort. During the 15th and l6th, the weather was warm, and the snow melted fast. Horses were sent for the lunic man, and he was brought to the fort ; his feet were not so bad as wc had ex- pected. On the 17th, it became cold ; the wind blew hard from the north, and it began to freeze. Friday 18th. — Clear cold weather. Two of our hunters returned, and had killed four deer, four M'olves, and a prarow. Two men belonging to the N. W. company, who stay at the Gross- venters village, came to the fort. They say this animal, which the French call a prarow, or brarow, is a species of the badger. Saturc! y lyth. — Two men were sent with horses for meat, to the hunters' camp, which is thirty mil.^s down the river. Sunday SOth.— I went up with one of the men to the villages. They treated us friendly and west, south of the Assiniboin river and lake, which would appear to be not more than 90 or 100 miles from the Mandan villages. 118 morn- oin those le of the d. They oiQupine ; so badly he fort, ither was >rses were nought to r'C had ex- vind blew reeze. Two of four deer, belonging he Gross- They say rarow, or ient with which is [le of the friendly hich would the Mandan 99 and gave us victuals. After we were done eatin- they presented a bowlful to a buffaloe head'' saying, - eat that.- Their superstitious credu hty IS so grtat, that they believe by using the head well, the living buffaloe will come, and that they will get a supply of meat. Monday 21st.— A clear cold day. Our bun- ters returned to the fort, and brought with them three horse-load of veniaon and elk meat. The weather on the 2fid and 23d was warm, and w commenced cutting the ice from about our craft, in order to get them out of the river. The snow fell about three inches deep. Thursday 24th. -A cold day. Some of our hunters went out, but killed nothing. Friday 25th.--All hands were employed in cutting away the ice, which we find a tedious business. Saturday 26th. ~A pleasant day, and all hands employed in cutting wood to make charcoal. We have a blacksmith with us, and a small set of blacksmith tools. The blacksmith makes war-axes, and other axes to cut wood ; which are exchanged with the natives for corn, which is of great service to us, as we could not bring much with us. ^ On the 27th and 28th, the weather became much more settled, warm, and pleasant, than it had been for some time. H 2 Iff 100 ?fi j K Tuesday 29th. — We attempted another plan for getting our water-craft disengaged from the ice : which was to heat water in the boats, with hot stone, Ijut in this project we failed, as the stones wc found would not stand the fire, but broke to pieces. Wednesday 30th. — I went up the river and found another kind of stones which broke in the same manner: so our batteaux and pc- riogues remained fast in the ice. Thursdu^ 31st. — Some snow fell last, night. Five hunters went out with two horses. In the morning the wind blew and was cold, towards the middle of the day the weather became mo- derate, and the afternoon was pleasant. Friday 1st Feb. 1805.— A cold day. About 11 of our hunters came home, but had killed no- thing. One of the men at the fort went out a short distance, and killed a small deer. On the next day he went out, and killed another deer. This and the third were cold. Alonday 4th. — A fine day. Captain Clarke and 18 more went down the river to hunt. Wc proceeded on 20 miles and could see no game. Tuesday 5th. — We went on to some Indian camps, and ther-e we killed three deer. The next day we went on to more Indian camps, and killed some deer. On the seventh, wc encamped in a bottom on the south side of the m 101 Missouri, and the next day turned out to hunt We killed 10 elk and 18 deer, and remained there all niglit. On die 9th, we huilt a pen, to secu'-e our meat from the wolves, which are very numerous here; and in the evening, went further down and encamped. The next morn- ing we set out on our return towards the fort; and killed some elk and deer in our way. On theUth, wearrivedat the fort, and found that one of our interpreter's wives had, in ourahsence, made an addition to our number. On the 13th, we had three horses shod to bring home our meat. Thursday 14th.— Four men set out early with the horses and sleds to bring home our meat; and had gone down about S5 miles, when a party of Indians (they did not know of what nation) came upon them and robbed them of their horses, one of which they gave back, and went off without doin^ the men any further injury. The same night the men came back, and gave information of what had happened. At midnight Captain Lewis called for twenty volunteers, who immediately turned out. Having made our arrangements, wesetout early, accomt panied by some Indians; and having marched thirty miles, encamped in some Indian huts. Saturday l6th. — We renewed our pursuit early, and had a cold morning. Having pro- ■ f r • i. t 1 ' I I I'li r 1? ( II ^H 102 t I iif' ceeded twelve miles, we discovered fresh smoke arising at some old camps, where we had hid some meat before, when Captain Clarke was down; and therefore advanced with caution. Having arrived at the place, we found the sa- vages were gone; had destroyed our meat, burnt the huts, and fled into the plains. This morning the Indians, who had come down with us and one of our men, whose feet had been a little frozen, returned home. We hunted the 17th and 18th, and got a good deal of meat, which we brought to a place where some more had been secured. The 19th we loaded our sledg very heavy, and fifteen men drew one and the horse the other, which was a small one. On the next day we ai rived at the fort much fa- tigued. Thursday 21st. — Some rain fell to-day, the first that had fallen since November. In the evening the weather became clear and pleasant. Friday 22d was a fine day, and we again began to cut away the ice, and succeeded in getting out one of the periogues. Saturday 23d. — We had fine pleasant weather, and all hands were engaged in cutting away the ice from the boat and the other periogue. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we had the good fortune to get both free from the ice; and in the three following days, succeeded in getting them all 103 safe upon the bank. On the 27th, we made preparations for making periogues to pursue our voyage iri. Thursday 28th.— Sixteen of us went up the fiver about six miles, where we found and cut down trees for four canoes. While we were absent, an express arrived from the Rickarees village, with news that the Sioux had declared war against us, and also against the Mandans and Grossventers. They had boasted of the robbery of the 14th, at the Rickarees village in their way home, and that they intended to massacre the whole of us in the Spring. By this express we therefore found out, that it was the Sioux who had taken the horses from our men, Friday 1st March 1805.— The same party en- camped out to make the canoes, and continued until six were made. Oa the 20th and 21st. — We carried them to the river, about a mile and a half distant : There I remained with two men to finish them, arid to take care of them, until the 26th, when some men came up from the fort, and we put the canoes into the water. As the river had risen, there was some water between the ice and the shore. We got three of them safe to the fort, but the ice breaking before the other three were got down, so filled the channel, that we were obliged to carry them the rest of the way ! t ■■ 1 I i i :) ■ t , j ■ lUHH L 9 104 by land. On the 27th, we put one of the ca- noes into the water to ascertain what weight they would carry. We found they would not carry as much as was expected, and Captain Lewis agreed to take a large periogue along. The remainder of the month we were employed in preparing our cr^ft for a renewal of our voyage. Monday 1st April 1805. — As our large boat was to return immediately to St. Louis, the whole of our craft was put into the water. A considerable quantity of rain fell this day ; the first of any consequence that had fallen here for six months. The Sd was a fine day, but windy. On the 3d, the weather was fine and pleasant. Some boxes were made, in which it was intended to have packed skins of different atiimals, which had been procured in the coun- try, to be sent down in the batteaux. Thursday 4th. — A fine clear day. We pack- ed the ho.^cs full of skins, buffalpe robes, and horns of the mountain ram, of a great size, for the president ; and began to load the boat. Friday 5th.»-This was a clear day, and the wind blew hard and cold from the N. W. We took all our goods, stores, and baggage out, divided and put them aboard our craft, that we might be ready to continue our voyage. ,If this brief Journal should happen to be 105 preserved, and be ever thought worthy of ap- pcaring in print; some readers will perhaps ex- pect, that, after our long friendly intercourse with these Indians, among whom we have spent the winter, our acquaintance with those na- tions lower down the river, and the information we received relative to several other nations ; we ought to be prepared now, when we are about to renew our voyage, to give some ac- count of the fair sex of the Missouri ; and entertain them with narratives of feats of love, as well as of arms. Though we could furnish a sufficient number of entertaining stories, and pleasant anecdotes, we do not think it prudent to swell our Journal with them ; as our views are airected to more useful information. Be- sides, as we are yet ignorant of the dangers which may await us, and the difficulty of es- cape, should certain probable incidents occur, it may not be inconsistent with good policy to keep the Journal of as small and portable a size as circumstances will make practicable. It may be observed generally that chastity is not very highly esteenicd by these people, and that the severe and loathsome effects of certain French principles are not uncommon among them. The fact is, that the women are gene- rally considered an article of traffic, zu \ induL gences are sold at a vt ry moderate price. Ag %'.-. tl K;'- V}\ : I 11 \ ill* 106 I ^ I • proof of this, I will just mention, that for an old tobacco-box, one of our men was grant- ed the honour of passing a night with the daughter of the head chief of the Mandan na- tion. An old bawd with her punks, may also be found in some of the villages on the Mis- souri, as well as in the large cities of polished nations. m CHAPTER VII. From the 6th to the 30th of April, 1805. We leave Fort Mandan. Encamp opposite the first Mandan Village. Pass ti£o Villages of the Gross- venter Indians. Reach the mouth of the Little Mis' souri. Pass Onion Creek. Sharbons Creek. Goat' Pen Creek. Encamp at Grand Point. Pass White- Clay River. Peach the mouth of the Yellow-Stone River. m. Saturday etb. — The day was clear and pleasant. This morning we heard that some of the Rickarees had come up to the Mandan villages. Our interpreter and some of the men were sent over to ascertain the truth of the report ; and we were detained all day, waiting their return. Sunday 7th. — The men returned, and four of the Rickarees with them. The commanding officers held a conversation with these Indians ; i ■i ! 'Ill % 1: i 11'" I ill' 108 and they concluded, that some of them mouM go down in the boat from their village, to St. Louis. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon, wc left Fort Mandan in good spirits. Thirty-one men and a woman went up the river, and thirteen returned down it in the boat. We had two pe- riogues and six canoes, and proceeded about four miles, and encamped opposite the first Mandan village, on the north side. Monday 8lh. — We set out early, and had a clear day. The wind blew hard from the N. W. At 12, the word was passed from a canoe in the rear that it was sinking, when we halted in front, and Captain Clarke went back to see what was the matter. This forenoon we passed two vil- lages of the Grossventcrs, or Big-belly nation of Indians on the south side, and a small river on the same side, called Couteau, or Knife river. The canoe which had been in distress, came up, and had received little damage, ex- cept wetting some powder on board. The wo- man that is with us, is a squaw of the Snake nation of Indians, and wife to our interpreter. We expect she will be of service to us, when pas- sing through that nation. In the afternoon we passed very high bluffs on the south side ; one of which had lately been a burning volcano. The pumice-stones lay very thick around it, \ 109 and there was a strong smell of sulplmr *. W came about fourteen miles and encamped on the north side. Tuesday 9th. — We set out early, and had a fine day ; about 1 o'clock we passed a party of Gross venters hunting: made about twenty-two miles, and encamped on the north side. Wednesday 10th. — We proceeded again early, and had rapid water, and a great many sand-bars; but a fine pleasant day. Having proceeded about nineteen miles, we encamped on the north side. Thursday 1 1th. — We got under weigh early, had a fine clear pleasant day, and went on very well. Ws saw some Indians on the south side, but did not speak with them. We came about twenty-one miles and encamped on the north side. Friday 12th." — Another fine day. We set out early as usual. About 8, we came to the mouth of tl\e Little Missouri, a handsome small river, that comes in on the south side, where we halt- * " Mr. Mackay informed me, that in passing over tho moun- tains, he observed several chasms in the earth tliat emitted J>eat and smoke, which diffused a strong sulplmreous sttMicii." Mackenzie's foi/age. These appearances were near the eastern side of tiie Rocky mountains, where they were crossed by Mr. Mackenzie's party ; and in about lat. 56. North, and long. 120. West. 1, ■ 1 1 ■ i 1 1 f ' i f I ! 'ill j* ^H i ' '|;il t ^1 1 -'■ 1 K 1 ■[ tfi^^l i' jg i in 1 ™ ^; ''S^^l ■1 '' 'H^^^l Hj '■1^1 s?r*-isli i^^^^RI 110 ed and took breakfast. The river is very pro- perly called the Little Missouri, for it exactly resembles the Missouri in colour, current, and taste*. It was thought adviseable to remain here the remainder of the day, and air our load- ing. Some hunters went out and killed a deer, and Captain Clarke killed a hare, which was now changing its colour from white to grey. Saturday 13th. — Wc had a pleasant day and a fair wind ; but our small canoes could no): bear the sail. Some of the party caught some beaver, and some Frenchmen who were out trap- ping, caught seven of them. We passed a large creek on the south side, called Onion creek. We came 23 miles, and encamped on the north side, where we found a wild goose nest on a tree about 60 feet high. One of the men climbed the tree, and found one egg in the nest. Sunday Uth. — We started early as usual, and had a fine morning. As we were setting out, a black dog came to us, and went along, supposed to jiave belonged to a band of the As- siniboiiis, who had been encamped near this place a few days ago. We passed a bill resembling * The maps of I-ouisiaua, place tlie Maiidan villages west of the I/itlle Missouri ; whereas it is ascertained by this cxpcditioT) to be 92 miles higlier up the Missouri., than tlie Maiidan«. 11) a large haystack, all but about 10 feet of the top, which was as wiiite as chalk. The hills in general are much higher here than lower clown the river ; but the bottoms much the same. In the afternoon we passed a creek, called, after our interpreter, Sharbons creek. He had been before this, far up the Missouri, and no white man any further, that we could discover. We made 16 miles, and encamped on a handsome bottom on the north side. Monday 1 5th.- We had a pleasant day and a fair wind ; set forward early as usual, and went on very well. Passed a large creek on the north side, called Goat-pen creek. We saw a number of buffaloe and two bears on the bank of the river. After going 23 miles, we encamped on the south side. Tuesday iSth.—We had a clear pleasant day ; and in the early part of it, a fair gentle wind. Captain Clarke went out and killed a Cabre or Antelope, the same kind of animal, which we before called a goat. The wind became flawy, and the sailing bad. After making 18 miles,' we encamped on the south side, in a point of woods called the Grand point. Wednesday 17th.— We proceeded on caily as usual with a fair wind. The day Mas fine and we made good way. Passed a beautiful plain and two large creeks on the north side, and H 1 * I ! ft 1,1 [I 'I fill riii ■ *i - 1 n ! k ■t :. j\, N ■ ; t^ f ' I 1. 1 1 1 1 II ''^' 1' ''} 11« another creek on the south. We saw a great many buftaU)e and elk on the banks. At one o'clock we halted for dinner, when two men went out and in a fe\v^ minutes killed two buf- faloe. We made 26 miles and encamped on the south side, and found that some rain had fallen during the day, where we encamped, thou*'!! there was none where we had been. Thursday 18th.— The men caught some beaver, and killed a wild goose. The morning was fine, and we went on very well until one o'clock, when the wind blew so hard down the river, we were obliged to lie to for 3 hours, after which we continued our voyage. This day Captain Clarke went by land and met us ■ in the afternoon on the bank with an elk and a deer. We came about 14 miles and en- camped in a good harbour on the north side, on account of the wind, which blew very hard all night, accompanied with some drops of rain. Friday 19th.— A cloudy morning, with high wind. ^Vc did not set out until the next day. While MC lay here, 1 went out to the hills, which I found very high, much washed by the rain, and without grass. 1 saw a part of a log quite petiiaed, and of which good whetstones, or hones, could be made.— I also saw where a hill had b-c:i on lire, and pumice-stone around it. i 1 tr(* I:, a great quantity of hyssop il^ m the valleys. We killed an elk and some wild geese, and caught some beaver. Saturday SOth.-We set out again and had a cold disagreeable morning ; rapid water and a strong wind. Some of the canoes took in a good deal of vater; and we made but six miles when we were obliged again to lie to, on ac* count of the wind, and to dry our loading While we lay here, we killed three elk, and got a number of gecte eggs out of their nests, which are generally built on trees. Sunday S 1st. -We proceeded on early; and had a fine clear morning, but cold : there was a sharp frost. Wc saw a great number of elk, buffaloe and deer on both sides of the river. About twelve the wind again rose and was disagreeable, but we continued our voyage. Two of our hunters went out this afternoon and caught three young buffaloe calves. We passed a small river called White Clay river on the north side, and having gone fifteen miles encamped on the south aide. Monday 22d. -- Before daylight we conti- led ou. voyage: passed a beautiful bottom on the north side, covered with game of dif- ferent kinds. The wind was unfavourable to- day, and the river here is very crooked. We came about fourteen miles, then encamped on tbe south side and caught some beaver. ;: m i; i 114 Tuesday SSd.^We sW our early '!*«(! liad a fine day; but lh(5 wind was a^heaci, And we vefe obliged to He to about three hotifS; We went fifteen mtks kfn^ encamfjed bu the north jrtde; Captain Ci^i^ke killed three black-tailed deer and a buflfaloe ca!t'. «' Wednesday 'i4'th. *-^* This was a cle^iv day, bdt the \vijfld blew so hard down the rivei-, we ct!^\ild not proceed* While we lay here, some of the men went to see some water at a' disitance wliich appeared like a fiver or small lake* ' In t>/e afV«»rhoofi they retiyrned, and had foond it only the viator of the Missouri/ which had run up a bott^ym'. One of the men caught six young wolves and brought them in, and the other men killed some elk and deer. Thursday 25th.— We set out as usual and had a fine day j but about eleven were obliged to halt again, the wind was so strong a-head. Captain Lewis and four men set off by land from ihis place to go to the river Jaune, or Yellow-Stone river, which it is believed is not very distant. 1 remarked, ias a singular circum- stance, that there is no dew in this country, and very little rain. Can it be owing to the want of timber? At five o'clock in the after- noon, we renewed our voyage ; and having this day advanced about thirteen miles, en- camped on the south side. : . fi5 Friday S6th.— A fine day. V. ^e m oiit earlj^, and hairrtig proceeded tert miles, came at twelve o'clock to the tnouth of the Jaune and halted : Captain Lewis and his pafty had not arrived. I went up the point about nine milea, where there are the most beautiful rich plains, I ever behdd. I saw a large pond or lake.— Captain Clarke, wh?le f was absent, measured both rivers ; ■dt\d found the breadth of the Missouri to be' 557 yal-ds of wat^r, and 190 of a sand-beach ; total ^2^ ;^ards: That of the Yellow-Stone nvet-^^7 fMiot\\'kter atid 561 of sand; total 858 yards: The mouth of this river is 1888 miles from the moath of the Missouri, 278 from Fort Mandan, pnd 18(5 from the mouth of Little Missouri. The river Jaune iS shallow, and the Missouri deep and rafild. In the evening Captain Lewis witt^ his paity joined us ; and had brought with them a buAaloe calf, which followed them seven or eight milfes. We killed a number of calves, and found' they made Very good veal. There are a great many signs of braver in this part of the country. Wc encamped on the point all night. Saturday 27th.— About nine o'clock in the fofcnoon we renewed our voyage. The day was fine, but on account**of a strong wind w^ i' .. »■ I il I it I- i 1 i , i i ! 116 were obliged at one to halt till four, when we again went on ; and having this day made eight miles, encamped on the north side. Sunday 28th.— We set out early, had a fine day, and went on very well. About nine wc halted for breakfast under very high bluffs on the north side. About fifteen miles above the Yellow-Stone river, the banks on the Mis- souri are not so high as below it, and the sand- bars are more in the middle of thcvrivcr. Wc came 24 miles and encamped en the north side in a handsome bottom. The bottoms here are not so large, and have less timber on them than those below the Jaune. Monday 29th. —We again set out early, had a clear morning, and went on at a good rate. This forenoon we passed some of the lightest bluffs I had ever seen ; and on the top of the highest we saw some mountain sheep, whicli the natives say are common about the Rocky mountains. These were the first we had seen, and we attempted to kill some of them, but did not succeed. Captain Lewis, and one of the men, travelled some distance by land and killed a white bear.— The natives call them white, but they are more of a brown grey. They are longer than the common black bear, a|id Jrave much larger ftet and talons. We went 117 15 miles and encamped on the bank of a small river, which comes in on the north side, about 70 yards wide. Tuesday 30th.—We embarked at sunrise j had a fine morning and went on very well. We passed through a handsome country, with a rich soil, and the prairies rising beautifully on both sides of the river. We went U mihes and encamped on the north side. Captain Lewis killed a large elk here. M;f h! !■' illtl I ■ ^,! Til UI5 CHAPTER VIIL •^® Fromtlie Ist of May, to the Ilth of June, 180.1. We proceed on oUr Voyage. Pass the Two^Timmand- Mile River. Porcupine Creek. Pass Milk FHer. Warner's Creek. Arrive at the mouth of the Muscle- shell River. Description of the Ibex. General oh- servations respecting the Country we have passed. Race River. Encamp in an Indian Lodge. Renen) am Voyage. Maria's River. Wednesday 1st May, 1805.— wesct out early in a cool morning ; and went on till twelve o'clock, when the wind rose so high, that our small canoes could rot stand the waves. We made only ten miles this day. Thursday 2d.— At day-break it began to I snow; and the wind continued so high, we could not proceed until the afternoon. While we lay here, our hunters went out and killed some bufFaloe and deer. They found some red cloth at an old Indian camp, which we suppose had been offered and left as a sacrifice; 1 up ,s a sacrifice; the Indians having some knowledge of a SV preme Being, and tijis their mode' of worship. The snow did not fall more than an Inch deep. At four we set out, went six miles, and enr camped on the north side in a heautifiil bottom. . Friday 3d.— We proceeded on our voyage this morning, though very cold and disagree- able, and a severe rrost. The snow and green grass on the prairies exhibite(} an appei^rjtnc^ somewhat uncommon. The cotton-wqod leaves are as large as dollars, notwithstanding tU^ snow and such hard frost. "VVe passed ft;>»?i^U river on the north side, called the Two-Thou^ sand-Mile river. About a mile above^ wf pas- sed a large creek on the south side, called Por- cupine creek. — We came this day abojit |\jr^f^ty miles and encamped on the north side. ' > ^" Saturday 4th.— This day was pleasant: in the forenoon we passed a creek on the south side, about forty yards wide. The river hag been more straight for two or three days than it was before ; the bottoms larger and more timber on them. We went about eighteen miles and encamped on the north side. One of the men became sick this morning and has remained so all day. Sunday 5th. — The morning was fine with some white frost. During this day the country appeared beautiful on both sides of the river. Kfi t» 120 'I Wc went sixteen miles and encamped on the north side. The sick man has become better. Here we killed a very large brown bear, which measured three feet five inches round the head ; three feet eleven inches round the neck ; round the breast five feet ten inches and a half; the length eight feet seven inches and a half; round the middle of the fore leg 23 inches ; and his talons four inches and three-eighths of an inch., Monday 6th. — We set sail with a fair wind and pleasant weather. At twelve a few drops of rain fell, but it soon cleared up. We passed a river on the south side about 200 yards wide ; but the water of this river sinks in the sand on the side of the Missouri. We went twenty-six miles and encamped on the soutlf side. Tuesday 7th. — We again set out early and went on very well till twelve, when it began to blow hard, and being all under sail, one of our canoes turned over. Fortunately the accident happened near the shore ; and after halting three hours, we were able to go on again. Having this day made sixteen miles, we en- camped on the south side. Wednesday 8th. — We were again very early under weigh in a cloudy morning ; about twelve some rain fell: at two we passed a handsome river on the north side about 200 yards wide, called Milk river. There h a good deal of 121 water in this river, which is clear, and its banks beautiful. Our distance this day was about twenty-seven miles, and we encamped in a beautiful bottom on the south side. Thursday 9th. — We proceeded on early, and had a fine day. The country on both sides begins to be more broken, and the river more crooked. At one, we passed a creek on the south side, and having made about 25 miles, wt encamped at the mouth of a creek on the north side, called by the name of Warner's creek. Friday lOtl^. —We set out early in a fair morning; but having gone five miles, were obliged to halt and lie by during the day, oo account of hard wind. Some small showers of rain occasionally fell. Here we killed some deer and bufFaloe, and took some beaver. Saturday 11th. — The morning was fine, we started at the usual hour: at 1 , passed a small 4creck on the south side. 'J'his day we saw several great gangs of buffaloe, and other game in'plenty. One of the men killed another large brown bear, about the size of the one lately killed. We came seventeen miles and encaniped on the south side. Sunday 12th. — We early renewed our voyage and had a pleasant morning ; passed some hilU on the north side, covered with pine and cedar, the first timber of anv kind we had seen on the !| t :' ] : '4 1 r :; 1 . };■:■ ' • f H ji; • ! 1 1 IQt ' iills for a long time. At 1, wfi halted for dinner, and a violent storm of wind fchen arose, which continued until night, when some rain fell. Our distance this day only IS^- miles. Monday 13th.— Jhe weather continued stor- my, and some few drops of rain fell. At One P. M. we embarked; passed three creeks, one on the north side, and two on the south ; went seven miles and encamped in a large bot- tom. Tuesday 14th. — There was some white frost in the morning : we proceeded on early ; passed bkck hills close to the river on the south side, and some covered with pine timber at a distance. About 12, the day became warm. Banks of snow were seen lying on the hills on the north side. This forenoon we passed a large creek on the north side, and a small ri\'er on the south. About 4 in the afternoon, we passed another small river on the south side', near the mouth of which, some of thte men discovered a large brown bear, and six of them went out to kill it. They fired at it ; but having only wounded it, it made battle, and was near seizing some of them, but they all fortunately escaped, and .at length succeeded in dispatching it. These bears are very bold and ferocious; and very large and powerful. The natives say they have killed a number of their brave men. The periogues 123 haylvg gone a-liead, while the people belonging tq the canoes were dressing the bear, a sudden gust of wind arose, which overset one of the per^og^es, befoie the sail could be got down. The men wlio had been on board, turned it again and got it to shore, full of water., - It was immediately unloaded and the cargo open- ed, when we found a great part of the medicine, and other articles spoiled. Here we encamped, having come to-day 181 miles. ',,.»Wedtiesday 15th.— We remained here all day tq idry our baggage that had got wet. It was cloudy and unfavourable for the purpose, and some rain M\. . . j'-,^ ^.,' ! Thursday J 6th.— This was a 6ne day, and by 4 o'clock in the afternoon, we had all our articles dry and on board again. At that time, we proceeded on our voyage ; passed high bar- ren hills on both sides of the river, with only a few pine trees on them. We advanced seven fniles, and encamped in a handsome bottom on ^he- sQHth side, where there are a number of old Indian huts. Friday 17th. — The morning was fine, and we embarked early. The hills here come very close to the river on both sides, and have very little timber on them. They are very high, and much washed. There are some of them, which at, a distance resemble ancient steeples. We If f m passed two rivers, one on each side. During the whole of this day's voyage, the Missouri was very handsome, and about 300 yards wide. Wc made iiO^ miles, and encamped on the south side. Saturday 1 8th. -- A cloudy morning. Wc proceeded early as usual. The country much the same as yesterday; until about 12 o'clock, when the bottoms became, more extensive on both sides of the river. There \s still a small quantity of pine timber on the hills. We had some showers of rain in the forenoon ; hail in the afternoon ; end a fine clear evening. We went nineteen miles, and encamped on the south side opposite an island. Sunday Ipth. — The morning was foggy, and there was some dew. The river is handsome, and the country mountainous. We made 20 J miles, and encamped on the north side in a smalt bottom. Monday 20th. —Wc set sail early and had a fine morning. Passed a creek on the south side, - and about 1 1 came to the mouth of the Muscle shell river, a handsome river that comes in on the south side. The water of the Missouri is becoming more clear. We here spent the re- mainder of the day, having come seven miles. .Captain Lewis had an observation here, which gave 47V 00. 24. north latitude ; and Captain Clarke measured the rivers. The Missouri here is 2S^ yards wide, and the Muscle-sheii 110 yards. The water of tlie latter is of a pale co- lour, and the current is not rapid ; its mouth is 660 miles above Fort Mandan. Tuesday 21st.~ We proceeded on early, and had a fine morning; towards the middle of the day the wind blew hard ; but we went on very well for CO miles, and encamped on a sand- beach on the north side. Wednesday 22d. -- A cloudy morning. The wind blew so hard this morning, we did not get under weigh until 9 o'clock. The fore- noon was cold and disagreeable, but the after- noon became more pleasant. We killed a brown bear and some other game on our way. Having gone 16| miles, we encamped on the north side. Thursday 23d. — The morning was clear with a white frost, and ice as thick as window glass. We passed two creeks, one on each side of the river, and two islands which are not common. Thcer are very few between tlu^^c and Fort Man- dan ; not more than six or eight. In the even- ing, we killed a large bear in the river; but he sunk and we did not get him *. We went 28{ miles, and encamped. I ♦ It is said that bears, beavers, ottns, and such aiiimaJs, will <'.»k, unless shot deatl. i' ' f# : f > ( \ ' ^H itij ^ H: 'lllfl iirfl Ih 11 ISG 1/ ill II 1 1 IflR ■i mio II T*ri(lay C4tli. — There was ngain some white froH thh morhing. \Ve embarked early ; pas- sed ^ large creek on the north side, and a beau* tiful ista'nd close mi the southern shore. At the liead of the Island, came in another' creek on the south side. The Bottom of tlie river and saiid-bars have necdme much more gravelly than we found them at any place lower down.' The water Ts high, rapid, and. more clear. At din- ner-time a party was sent out to bring tlie meat of 'some animals that bad been killed at a dis- liiige.' Jlere we left tVyo canoes to wait for them, and proceeded on^ We passed a creek on the ijorth side, and having made 0.4^ rhiles, encampecTon the south side. The hills are near, on both sides of the river; and very high. Saturday 25 tli.--\Ve waited here in the morn- ing until the canoes came up; and about 7, proceeded oh our voyage. The forenoon was j)leasant. We passed two creeks opposite to eacU other on the opposite tides of the river. About 12, we passed a bottom on the north side, with one solitary tree on it, upon which there was an eagle's uest. The bottoms here are very small. — As we went on this afternoon, some of the party killed three of what the French and na- tives call mountain sheep; but they very little resemble sheep, except in the head, horns, and feet. They arc of a dun colour, exce])t on the 1&7 l)elly aiul rouncl the rump, where they are whit©. The borns of the ujile arc very large; tliose of the female stnall. Thty ha.ve a fine ioft hair. Ctujtiiiii Clarke culls tliein the Il)ex, uiui says they resemble that animal more than any other. They are in size somewhat larger than a deer. Thehilla are here very high and steep. One of our tnen, in an attempt to climb pnc, had' liIs shoulder dislocated ; it was however replaced without nmch difficulty. These hills are very much washed in general : they appear like great heaps of clay, Mashing away witli every shower; with scarcely any herbs or grass on any of them. This evening we passed an island all prairie, ex- cept a few trees on the upper end of it. We M'ent 18 miles, and encamped on the south side. Sunday 25tli. — We set out early in a fine morning, and passed through a desert country ; in which there is no timber on any part, except a few scattered pines on the hills. We saw few animals of any kind, but the Ibex or mountain sheep. One of our men killed a male, which had horns two feet long, and four inches diame- ter at the root*. We passed two creeks this '^f •* ct The Ibex rea^nible^! the goat in tlif shape of its body ; but (iilTors in the horn!!, which are nuich lar^i r. They are bent t.ack- wards, full of knots ; and it is generally asserted, that there is a kwA added every year. There arc some of these found, if we ill it' II forenoon on the north side ; and in the evening one of the men killed a bufFaloc. At dark, wc came to large rapids, where we had to unite the ci"ews of two or three canoes, to foi .e them *■ ■ t ... may believe Beltonius, at least two yards long. The Ibex has a large black beard, of a. brown colour, with a thick woven roat of hair. There is a streak of black runs along the top of the back ; and the belly and back of the thighs are of a fawn colour. It is a native of the Alps, the Pyrenees, and mountains of Greece ; extremely *>*ift, and capable of running with ease along the edges of precipices, where even the Wolf, or the Fox, though instigated by hunger, darc« not pursue it." Goldsmith. Such is the description given of the Ibex ; but which to us does not appear to suit the anhnal found about the rocky mountains, called the Mountain Ram. From wlrat we have before heard of tiiat animal, and from Mr. Gass's verbal description, wc arc led to believe, that it much more nearly reseniblcs the wild sheep, called the Mutllon, «r Musmon, t» be found in the uncultivated parts o* Greece, Sardinia, Corsica, and in the deserts ofTaiiiry; an4 » hicli is thought to be tlic primitive race, and Uie real sheep, in its %i!d and savage state. Perhaps it may be found to be exactly the same ; of which wc find the following description : " Tlic Mufflon, or Mu«mon, though covered with hair, bears a stronger similitude to the R;im> than to any other animal ; like tlie Ram, it has the eyes placed near the hums ; and its cars are shortr r than tho5e of the Goat : it also resembles the Ram in its horns, and jn all the particular contours of its form. The horns also are alike ; they arc of a white or yellow colour ; they have three sides as in the Ram, and bend backwards in tlie sa^mc mariner beliind the cars. The muzilt: and inside- of ti^c ears are of a wliitish colour, tinctured with yellow; the other parts of the face are of a brownish grey. The general colour of the hair over tik' body is of a brown, ap- proachitig to that of the red deer. Tho in ide of the thighs and belly are of a white tinctiued with yellow. Tlie form, uponth»- vvhoii.', seem* niore-nuule U>r agility and striTigtii, thun that of tii': tlirougli. It was some time after night, before we could encamp. We at length, after having gone, twenty-one miles, encamped on the south side in a small grove of timber, the first we had seen during the day. Monday 27th. — We have now got into a country which presents little to our view, but scenes of barrenness and desolation ; and see no encouraging prospects that it wiii terminate. Having proceeded (by the course of this river) about two thousand three hundred miles, it may therefore not be improper to make two or three general observations respecting the country we have passed. From J:he mouth of the Missouri to that of the river Platte, a distance of more than six hundred miles, the land is generally of a good quality, with a sutlicient quantity of timber ; in many places very rich, and the country pleasant ^nd beautiful. From the coniluence of the river Platte with I " . common sheep ; an^ the Mufflon is actually found to live in a ravage state, and inai'\tain itself either by force or swiftness against all the animals that live by rapine. Such is its extreme speed, that many have been inclined rather to rank it aino«jg the deer kind, than the sheep. But in this they are deceived, as the Musmon has a mark that entirely distinguishes it from that species, being known never to shed its horns. In some, these are seen to grow to a sur- prizing size ; many of them measuring, in their convolutions, abov,e twg ells long." Goldsmith. 11 I : f iHr; lit is, 1*0 ':\. . 'I iv thte I^IisSonri to tlife Sterile di&sert we lately i and made out to get enough of drift wood to cook with. Tuesday 28th. — We set sail early, had a fine morning, and proceeded on through this desert country until ahout four o'clock P. M. when we came to a more pleasant part. We made twenty- one miles and encamped on the north side. Wednesday 29th. — We proceeded on early and had a fine morniny; ; passed two rivers, one on each side. At twelve, it became ^ioudy and began to rain. We went about eighteen miles and halted at a handsome grove of timber on tiic south side. It rained a little all the after- noon. Some of the men went out to hunt and killed an elk. Last night about twelve o'clock, a buffaloe swimming the river happened to land at one of the jjeriogues, crossed over it and broke two guns, but not so as to render them useless. He then went straight on through the men where they w ere sleeping, but hurt none of them. As we came along to-day, we passed a place where the Indians had driven above an hundred head of buffaloe down a precipice and killed them. Thursday tJOth. — The forenoon was cloudy, with some rain. We did not set out till late in the day. The hills came in dose on the river again, but are not so high. Some of them are Hi> black as coal, and some white as chalk. 1S3 We see a great many fresh Indian tracks or signs as we pass along. It rained a little all day ; we went on slow and encamped early on the north side, in a small bottom with some cotton-wood, having proceeded on eight miles. There are no pines to be seen on the hills. Friday 31st.-- We embarked early in a cloudy morning; passed through a mountainous coun- try, but the game is more plenty, and we killed some buffaloe in cur way. About eleven o'clock it began to rain slowly, and continued raining two hours, when it cleared up. \Ve passed some very curious cliffs and rocky pfe'aks, in a long range ; some of them two hundred feet high and not more than eight feet thick. They seem as if built by the hand of man, and are so numerous that they appear like the ruing of an antient city. We went 17f miles and encamped at the mouth of a handsome creek oii the north side. Saturday 1st June, 1805. — We embarked early. The morning was cloudy, but without rain. We passed through a more handsomfc country, than for some days past. It appears more level, and there are some good bottoms on both sides of the river, but not large ; also a number of beautiful small islands, covered with cotton-wood. We saw a number of mountain sheep. Yestdrday our men killed three of them, , 1 •' j 1 if fl ' :B»l^ 'f n r^* !■ ,.1 s that had remarkable large horo»; one pair weighed twenty-five pounds. We passed ^, smaU river on the north side about eleven o'clociv, The water is not so rapid to-day as usual, but continue* high. In the afternoo- we passed a creek about thirty y^j i .• \ -nty-four tailes and encamped on a small island. 3upday 2d.—We embarked early in a fiat IJiorning. The hills come close on the river. |?ut «re not 50 high nor ?o broken, as we fotind th^m a short distance lower down, This fore- noon we passed t\yo creeks, one on each wde, and several islands covered with cotton-wood j but there is ^ot a stick of timber to be seen any vhere upon the hills. Some of the hunt^rf killed a broiyn bear in a small bottom on th0 aouth side, and having come eighteen miles, we encamped just above the bottom on the same side, at the mouth of a large river. Monday 3d.— Wr crossed over to th^ point l)etwpep the two rivers and encamped there. The commanding officers could not determine >vhiel^ of these rivers or branches, it was pro- per to take; and therefore concludeil to send a small party up each of them. Myself and two men went up the south branch, and a ser- geant and two morp up the north. The parties went up the two branches about ^ftcen miles. IS5 W« fouod tbe soutb branch nj^iA with a gr^^^t man}? i4an.ci3 and tW gener^ course soqth-we$|;. Theoth^r party r^portttd the north hrJ>n<;h ^a l^ss rapid, an4 not so deep a$ the Pth^r. Xh< nort;h hff^Qch is ]^' y?r4s wide >ind thj^ ^pi^th $7^ ywd«. Tha wat^- pf tli^ sputh hrai,iph ^ qlcftf, and th^t of the noith qiuddy, Abqijli^ mile and an half up %hfi ppii*; tjQm the cqi^ flueiicg, ^ handsome ^niall river fi^lU i(Vit9, \h§ nQrth hranch, called ftosp «vjer. Jfj^ v^^^j 48 muddy, a^d the mnm% wpid., Q?^pt?m hm'lk took a meridian ^Ititiidf ftt the ^mpt wfeh gave 47'. 24. 12. ;>oi|th Witu-d^J, C^^tm J^W^f and Captain Clarke w e n^Vy^V sAti^,^^ ^4^) fc*pect to the proper river t;o ^^eptj. ;, : r Tue^d^y 4th. — Ca|)tain Lewis m^k §h R>^ft went up the worth branch, tq* §e^ if t^^^it \ip .the south branch, for the same purpose with ^?6R*^4 to that bi^anch. About eight miles above the confluence, the south branch and th^ ^fna.11 river which f^Us into the north branch, ar^^not more than two-hundred yaiids apJirtr. Near this place and close on the bank of the south branch is a beautiful spring \^\\eYQ yf^ ref^esh^d our- selves with a goo4 drink of grog ; ^qd proceed- ed on tlirough the high plains. U$r« nothing 15' , II 1:^ ! I" ' it III i>V $ i \.t it ■ '■ «1 ' hli 1 136 grows but prickly pears, which are in abnn- daiice, and some short grass. We irent on aboiife- thirty miles and found the ri\^b'r' stiW extending in a south-west direction. ^^We saw a tttouiitdin to the south about twenty miles oii;' which appear<^d to run east and west,' and some spots i Oil it i-esembling snow. '.In the evening we went towards the river to encartip, where^ne of the irien' having got ddwn to a smalP-pbini of woods -on the bank, before the rest of the party,' wfts* art talked byj^d-hiige lie- bear, and' his gun ftiissed fire. We were about two-hundred yardi' from' bitifi, but the bank thfcre -was so *te6p<■> ! 1 ! J 1 ! I i ; 1 t ^H Captain Lewis and hi3 party came topvwp. They had been up the north branch about wxty mile?, and found it wavigablq that distance? ; Bot so full of islands as the other branch, and ^ greater quantity ctf t^iniber near it and pkp^ty oi game, which U not the ca^e on the soutb brauch. It$ bearing sgniething north of wcit a. egniiderable distance, and tlien. to tl^ ^outh of west. The pavty whilq out, killed eighteoii deer and some elk. From the appearance pi the river where tb^y left it tp retnin, they lupposed it mig^U be navigable a cansiderabii distance further. They saw no monntj^ins ^■4lead^ but one off towards the north : it was not ecu vered with mow lik^ those we had seen. Jioth these rivers abound in M} ; »n4 w^ c^ughjt some of difftreut kinds, but not large. Abontj ^ve o'clock in the afternoon, thf weatbt-'r be* cam« cloudy and cold, and it began to rain,. The officers concluded that the south branch was the moat proper to ascend, which they think is the Missouri. The other they called Miiia's river. At dark the rain ceased. Sunday 9th. ^^ A fine morning. It was thought adviseable to leave the larg« periogue here and part of the stores and baggage, and some of the men were engaged in digging a case to bury them in. The water of the Mis- souri changed this morning to its former colour. 159 The diy was fine, but the wind blew hard from the north-west. One of the men killed an ex- cellent fat bufFaloe. There is a quantity of goose-berry and choak-cherry bushes on the point, and also some rabbit berries. Monday lOtli.— We hauled our large perioguc en an island in the mouth of Maria's river, and covered it over with brush. We then be- gan to examine and assort our effects, to see what would be least wanted and most proper to leave ; but about two it began to rain and blow so hard, we were obliged to desist. The rain continued only an hour, and in the evening we loaded the rest of the craft, and left the re- inainder of our stores and baggage to he buried, COBsiating of com, poik, flour, some powder tnd lead, and other articlM amounting to about one thousand pounds weight. Tuesday J 1th.— A fine day. Captain Lewis ami four men set out this morning to go to the mountains, which we had discovered towards the west. The rest of the party were engaged in burying the baggage and goods which had befn left, and preparing to start the following morning. n f r: ' . II { n'pl 14<^ CIIAPT RR IX. ■'1 from the 12th of June, to the 14th of July, 1805. We continue, our Votju'^c. Pass Snow Creek. Strat£- herry Creek. Medicine mter. A dreadful Hail, storm. Visit the Falls. An Indian JA)dse. i ■Wednesday 12th.— The morning was fine; we set out from the mouth of Maria's river, and went on very well. In the forenoon we passed tuclve islahds. At I o'clock, the weather became cloudy and threatened rfein ; at 2, there was a light shower, and the day became clear. We passed three, islands this afternoon, and some handsome bluffs, on both sides of the river. Wc went 18 miles and en- camped in a small bottom on the north side, where m'c killed two elk and some deer. Thursday 13th.— We set out early in a fine morning. Some dew fell last night. We passed a large creek on the south side, called Snow creek. The water of the river is verv clear and ir'- .141 the current very rapid. We passed a number of islands covered with timber; but tiiere is none to be seen on the hills on either side. We went 14 miles and encamped on the south side. Friday 14th.~Wc embarked early, and the moriing was pleasant. About 7 o'clock A. M. we passed a place where Captain Lewis and his men had killed two bears, and had left a note directing us where to find them. , About two, one of Captain Lewis's men met us, and in- formed us that the fails were about twenty miles above ; and that Captain Lewis and the otlicr three men vere gone on to examine what the distance was above the falls, before we could take the water again. We went 10 miles and encamped in a small bottom on the south side. Saturday 15th.— Wc proceeded on as usual/ but had the most rapid water T ever saw any craft taken through. At noon, we stopped at the mouth of a creek on the south side, called Strawberry creek, a handsome rapid stream, but not large. On a point above, there is a great quantity of strawberry, gooseberry and choak-cherry bushes; and tjiere appears to be a good deal of small cotton-uood on the banks of this creek. In the afternoon, we passed red bluffs on both sides of the river, and at nfabt, ll H i \'\ I I i • Mi cam( to a large rapid which Ivc did not venture to pass so late ; and therefore encamped bdow on the north side, after going IS miles. Sunday 1 5th.— In the morning, all hands were engaged in taking the canoes over the rapid, about a mile in length, which having "accom- plished, they retumed and took up the periogue^ M here we halted to examine another great rapid close ahead. One man had been sent on last night to Captain Lewis, t6 find out what disco- veries he had made. We remained here some time, and a few of the men went out to hunt. About noon. Captain Lewis and the party with him joined us, and the hunters came in. Cap- tain Lewis had been up the falls 15 miles above the first shoot or pitch, atid found the falls con- tinue all that distance, in which there were five different shoots 40 or 60 feet peipendicular each, and very rapid water between them. As we found the south side the best to carry our canoes up, we crossed over and unloaded our craft. We then had to take the empty canoes to the side we had left, and to tow them up by a line about a mile, rn order to get them up to the mouth of a small river on the south side, as a more convenient place to take them up the bank. This business was attended M'ith great fHthculty as well as danger, but we succeeded In getting them all over safe. Ipfonday 17tb.--Pait of the plttycd in taking the canoes up the small about a mile and an half; and men were ttH' river some engaged ih making imall waggons to haul the canoes and loading above the faUs. Captain Clarke and four men went to view and survey our road to the place xvhere we xvere to embark above the falls. Opposite the mouth of the small river, a beautiful sulphur spring rises out of the bank,' of as strong sulphur water as I have ever seen. On the bottoms of this small river, and also on the Missouri, is a great quantity of flax growing, and at this time in bloom. Two men went out this morning to hunt for elk, in order to get their skins for covering to the iron frame of a boat, which we had with us. In the evening, the men got the canoes to a proper place to take them upon land. l\iesday 18th.~The periogue was hauled out of the water and laid safe ; and some men went to dig a place for depositing more of our baggage. About twelve, the two hunfcrs came in, anrf could find no elk, but killed ten deer. In the evening, we completed our waggons, which were made altogether of wood, and of a very ordinary quality ; but it is expected they will answer the purpose. Wednesday l9th.~A fine day, but the wind ^^y high. Three hunters set out for medicine 144 river, a large river above the falls, which comes in on the north side, to hunt for eik. We finished the burying place, so that we shall be ready to start as soon as Captain Clarke returns. All our people are maldng mockasons to go through the prairie. Thursday ^Oth. — A cloudy morning : four hunters went out to kill some fat bulfaloe. About 4 o'clock, one of them came in for men to carry the meal to camp ; as they had fourteen down rcadv to butcher. We went out about a mile and an half, and brought in a load, leaving three men to dress the rest. Captain Clarke and his party returned, having found a tolerable good road, except where some draughts crossed it. . They had left their blankets and provision at the place where they expect we will again embark. Friday 21st. — This morning was also fine, but there was a high wind. The remainder of the meat was brought in, and one of the mei) killed two deer. • Saturday S'id. — All hands, except two and the interpreter and his wife, set out through the prairie, with one cauoe on a waggon loaded heavy with baggage. We went on slowly, as our axletrees were weak; and about 12 o'clock, one of them broke ; when we had to halt and put in a new one. This accident happened at )rovision 145 a draught M'here there was some willow, and we put ill an axletree of that ; which I be- lieve is the best this country affords for the purpose. It was late in the evening before we got to the intended place of embarkation on the river. Sunday 23d.— The morning was cloudy. When I awoke this morning, I found a material differ- ence between the river and country here and below the falls. Here the river is wide and the current gentle. There are three small islands at this place, and some timber on the l^anks, but not much, and what is there is cotton-wood and willow. The banks are very low, and the coun- try rising in plains a considerable distance on both sides of the river; and far off mountains covered with snow on both sides and ahead. Two of the men and myself remained with Cap- tain Lewis here to assist him in putting together his iron boat, the rest went back for another load. The iron-boat frame is to be covered with skins, and requires a quantity of thin shaved strips of wood for lining. In the forenoon, we put the frame together, ^which is 36 feet long, H wide, and 2 feet 2 inches deep. In the after- noon, Captain Lewis and one of the men went down to Medicine river, which is about two miles distant, to see whether the three men sent there ^-0 hunt had procured any elk skins. In the L m\ I \ iXt 14^ y evening, they found one of the hunters, and encamped with him all night. Monday 24th. — In the morning, Captain Lewis came up to our camp. We found it very difficult to procure stuff for the hoat. The two men which Captain Lewis had left in the morn- ing came to our camp in the afternoon, but had seen nothing of the other two hunters. In the evening, there was a very heavy shower of rain ; at night, the weather cleared up, and the men arrived with two more canoes. The two Imnters which Captain Lewis could not find, had killed some buffaloe below the 'mouth of the Medicine river, where one remained, and the other had gone across to the camp below the falls again, but had found no elk. Tuesday 25th. — A cloudy morning. The men went back for more canoes and baggage; and one went down to the hunter's camp below Medicine river, to bring him up in a canoe. Another went up the river to look for elk. When he had gone about 3 miles, he was attacked by three brown bears, that were near devouring him; but he made hi* escape by running down a steep bank into the water. In this adventure he fell, injured his gun, and hurt one of his hands ; therefore returned to camp. One of the men and myself went over to an island to look for stuff for the canoe, but could find no- t*7 Iiing but bark, which perhaps will answer. We killed two elk on the island. There i, in the bottoms a great quantity of spear-mint and cur- rant bushes; also multitudes of blackbirds. The musquitoe, are very troublesome, though the snow is on the mountains so near. I„ the evenmg, the two men came up the river witl a quantity of good meat and 100 pounds of tallow. Wednesday 26th. -A fine morniHg. Two hunters went up the river, and myself and ano- tlier went over the river to collect bark; wliere a great gang of buffaloe came near us, and we ki led seven of them. In the evening, the men returned over the plains with two more canoe, and baggage. One man fell very sick, and Uptam Lewis had to bleed him with a penknife Uavmg no other instrument at this camp. Cap! tarn Clarke measured the length of this portag-e accurately, and found it to be 18 miles. He also measured the height of the falls, and found them in a distance of 17 miles 362 feet 9 inches, lie first great pitch 98 feet, the second 19 feet the third 47 feet 8 inches, the fourth 26 feet • and a number of small pitches, amounting al' together to 36^ feet 9 inches. Thursday 27th.~A fine day. The men went back for the remaining canoe and baggage. The ^ick man is become better. This mornino- L2 Ul I : m I ' ! U8 ii-i in .Hi I some elk came close to camp, and we killed two of them. In the afternoon, a dreadful hail- storm came on, which lasted half an hour. Some of the lumps of ice that fell, weighed three ounces, and measured seven inches in circum- ference. The ground was covered with them, as white as snow. It kept cloudy during the evening, and some rain fell. At night, the two hunters that went up the river returned. They had killed while oat, nine elk and two bears. Friday ^Sth. — A fine morning. There arc but six persons now at this camp, but all busy about the boat ; some shaving skins, some sew- ing them together, and some preparing the wood part. Saturday 29th. — We had a very hard gust of wind and rain in the morning; but a fine fore- noon after it. Captain Lewis and a hunter went down the river about seven miles, to see a very large spring which rises out of the jank of the INIissouri on the south side. In the after- noon, there was another heavy shower of rain, and after it a fine evening. Captain Lewis came to camp, but drenched with rain. Sunday 30th. — A fine morning, and heavy dew, which is very rare in this country. The men with the canoe and baggage did not return, as we expected. Monday 1st July, 1805.— A fine day. ki the I I '' '' 149 afternoon, Captain Clarke and the men came with all the baggage, except some they had left six miles back. The hail that fell on the a/th, hurt some of the men very badly. Captain Clarke, the interpreter, and the squaw and child, had gone to see the spring at the falls ; and when the storm began, they took shelter under a bank at the mouth of a run; but in five minutes there was seven feet water in the run, and they were very near being swept away. They lost a gun, an umbrella, and a surveyor's compass, and barely escaped with their lives. Tuesday 9d. — A fine morning. The survey- or's compass, which had been lost, was found to-day. The men went out for the baggage which had been left oli the way, and got in with the whole of it, and canoes, safe. In the evening, most of the corps crossed over to an island, to attack and rout its mo- narch, a large brown bear, that held possession, and seemed to defy all that would attempt to besiege him there. Our troops, however, storm- ed the place, gave no quarter, and its com- mander fell. Our army returned the same even- ing to camp, without having suffered any loss on their side. Wednesday 3d.— A fine morning. I was so engaged with the boat, that I had not vibited the falls. I therefore snt out with one of the H 1 1 i ■H 1 ■ ■1 ■I '( 'I ■PHI !t 150 men to-day for that purpose. I fdund the se- cond pitch the most beautiful, though not the highest. About a mile below the upper pitch, the largest and most beautful spring rises out of the bank of the Missouri on the south side, that I ever beheld. We had a light shower of rain. During this excursion, I saw more buffaloe than I had seen in any day previous : we killed seven of them before we returned to camp. We also saw twenty-five wolves in one gang or pack. Thursday 4th.— A fine day. A part of the men were busily engaged at the boat, and others in dressing skins for clothing, until about four o'clock in the afternoon, when we drank the last of our spirits in celebrating the day, and amused ourselves with dancing till nine o'clock at night, when a shower of rain fell, and we retired to rest. Friday 5th.— A fine morning. All the men, except five of us who were engaged at the boat, went to hunt; at night, they came in, and had killed several buffaloe, and some ca- bres or antelopes. Saturday 6th.— As many of the hands as could find room to work, were engaged at the boat; and four went down the river to hunt buflPaloe, in order to get their skins to cover our craft. This was a beautiful and pleasant day. Sunday 7th.— The morning was fine. The d the se- ll not the Dcr pitch, iscs out of side, that r of rain, faloe than lied seven We also pack, rt of the md others; bout four k the last id amused : at night, id to rest, the men, ;d at the came in, some ca- hands as ed at the to hunt to cover pleasant nc. The 151 hunters had remained out all night. In the evening, some few drops of rain fell ; and the hunters came in, but had not good luck, the buffaloe being mostly out in the plains. At night, we got our boat finished, all but greas- ing, and she was laid out to dry. Monday 8th.— Again we had a fine moniing, and a number of the party, went out to hunt In the evening, they all came in, and had killed but three buffaloe, a deer, and a cabre ; and caught a small animal almost like a cat, of a light colour. Yesterday, one of the men caught a small squirrel, like a ground-squirrel, but of a more dun colour, and more spotted. We finished the boat this evening, having co- vered her with tallow and coal-dust. We called her the Experiment, and expect she will answer our purpose. Tuesday 9th.— A fine morning, and heavy dew. In the forenoon, we loaded our canoes, and put the Experiment into the water. She rides very light, but leaks some. In the after- noon, a storm of wind, with some rain, came on from the north-west, and we had again to unload some of our canoes, the waves ran so high. After the storm, we had a fine evening. The tallow and coal were found not to answer the purpose ; for as soon as dry, it cracked and scaled ofi", and the water came through th 152 skins. Therefore for want of tar or pitch, we had, after all our labour, to haul our new boat on shore, and leave it at this place. Wednesday 10th. — A fine cool morning. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke thought it would be best to make two canoes more, if wc could get timber large enough. So Captain Clarke and ten men set out in search of it. Some of the hunters having seen large timber about 20 miles up the river, the canoes were sent on loaded, and a party went by land; the distance that way being only 6 or 7 miles. If timber is found, the canoes are to unload and return for the remainder of the baggage. Cap. tain Lewis, myself, and nine men, staid to take the boat asunder and bury her; and deposited her safely under ground. Captain Lewis had au observation at 1(2, which gave 47\ 3. u). N. latitude. In the afternoon 1 went out to see if there were any buffaloe near, but found none . they appear to have all left the river. On the bank of a run, Mhere there 'are high rocks, I found a great quantity of sweet gooseberries, all ripe. Thursday 1 1th.— We continued here waiting for the return of the canoes until 2 o'clock ; when four of us went out and killed a buffaloe, and brought in part of the meat. The canoes did not come back this tacnin^. IS3 Friday 12th.— A ^ne morning. Myself and three of the men went up the river to assist Captain Clarke's party. In our way, we passed a sniuli bottom on the north side of the river, in which there is an old Indian lodge, 216 feet »n circumference. Here wc saw some wild pi- geons and turtle-doves. Having gone about 7 miles, we.found Captain Clarke's party, who had cut down two trees and taken off logs for canoes, one 25 and the other 30 feet in leneth. The canoes had returned to our old camp, where Captain Lewis was. Saturday 13th.— A fine day, but high wind. Captain Lewis came up here accompanied by the squaw. He informed us that the canoes had started with all the baggage from the for- mer encampment, which Ave had called White- bear camp. The musquitoes arc very trouble- some. This evening the canoes were finished, except the putting in some knees. Sunday 14th. — A fine morning. About 1 1 o'clock, the men came up with the canoes and baggage. The distance by water was found to be 22 miles, and by land only 6 miles. In the afternoon some rain fell, but wc continued to work at the canoes, and finis^ied them ready for loading. W :);:! 1 i 1 1 1 i V ' 'i 354 CHAPTER X. From the lath of July, to the 9ih of August, 1805. We Uace Canoe Caivp. Reach fhe Rarh Mountains. Pass QeaT'Water liiver. Proceed on our Voi/age. Go in search of the Snake Indians. Our March continued. ^ Monday 15th.— After a night of heavy rain, ve had a pleasant nioruing, and loaded the canoes. About 1 ] o'clock we set out from this place, which we had called Canoe camp ; had fine still water, and passed some handsome small bottoms on both sides of the river. We also passed a handsome river on the south side, about 100 yards wide, which seemed to have its source in a large mountain on the same side. The snow appears to have melted from all the mountains in view. The country around is com- posed of dry plains, with short grass. We pas- sed two small creeks, one on each side of the river; made 26* miles, and encamped on the north side. i4ii\i( 155 Tuesday l5th. — We embarked early, and had a fina morning. Captain Lewis and two men went on aiicad to the mountain to take an observation. We passed the channel of a river on the south side without water, about 60 yardg wide. We had fine water until about I o'clock, when we came within about 2 miles of the mountain; when the water became more papid, but the current not so swift as below the falls. At this place there are a number of small islands. One of our men has been taken unwell. In the afternoon we continued our voyage, and the water continued very rapid. We got about 3 miles into the first r^nge of the Rock moun- tains, and encamped on the north side of the river on a sand-beach. There is some fine tim- ber on the mountains, but not much in this part. There are great hills of solid rock, of a dark colour. This day we went about 20 milci. Wednesday 17th. —We set out early, and the morning was fine and pleasant. At 8 o'clock we came to Captain Lewis's camp, at a very rapid place of the river, and took breakfast. We had here to join the crews of two canoes together, to go up the rapids, which were about half a mile long. The Missouri at this place is very narroAv. At the head of these rapids, a I- - H'l ■ 1-:^ 1.56 line spring comes in on (lie south side, whicii rises about a (juarter of a mile from the river, and has a good deal of small cotton-wood and willows on its banks. There is also another spring below the rapids, but it sinks before it reaches the river. We proceeded on through the mountains, a very desert looking part of the country. Some of the knobs or peaks of these mountains, are 700 (perhaps some nearly 1200) feet high, all rock ; and though they are almost perpendicular, we saw mountain-sheep on the very tops of them. M^c saw few other animals to-day. TUq general breadth of the river is 100 yards. \Vo went 11 miles and en- camped in a small bottom on the north side. Thursday 18th.-- The morning was fair, and we proceeded on early ; passed Clear-water river on the north side, about 60 yards wide, rapid and shallow. There are a great quantity of currants all along the river on both sides in the small bottoms. At breakfast-time Captain Clarke with three men went on a-head. About 11, we got through the higher part of the moun- tains, and to where there is less timber, and the rocks not so large. In the forenoon wt passed two small creeks on the north side, and in the afternoon a small river on the same side: above the mouth of which we got a dccr-skin, 157 that Captain Carke's iniui liad luiiio- uj>. 'J'lie country continues much the same. We made 20 miles this day. Friday iptl). — A fine morninjr. At 9, we came to higii parts of the mountains, whicli had a good deal of pine, spruce, and cedar, on them, and where tlierc were not so many rocks ; l)utno timber in the bottoms, except some small willows. About 1 o'clock, we had thunder, lightning, and rain, which continued an hour or two, and then the weather became clear. This afternoon we passed parts of the mountains, that were very high, and mostly of solid rock of a light colour. The mountains are so close on the river on both si(les,that we scarcely could tind room to encamp. We went 20 miles and encamped on the south side. After night some rain fell. ^ ^ Saturday 2()th.— Wehad a fine morning, and embaiked early, About 8, we got out of the high part of the nmuntaius, and came to where they are lower, and not so rocky; and where there are the finest currants I ever saw, of dif- ferent kinds, red, yellow, and black; the black are the most pleasant and palatcable. There is also a good portion of timber on the mountains all along this part. We killed an elk in our way, and found the skin of one which Captain Clarke had left on the bank with a note, in- t I I } t i ' i 158 11^ ..;^ forming us he would pass the mountain I • was then on, and wait for the canoes. We passed a small creek on the south side, and about 2 o'clock came to a level plain on the north side, from which we saw a strong smoke rising, and supposed it was from a fire made by Captain Clarke. The river is very crooked in general, and here is i great bend to the south-east ; and in the afternoon it turned so far, that our course was north of east. We proceeded on through a valley between two mountains, one of which we passed, and the other is in view a-head. We went 15 miles and encamped at the mouth of a small run on the south side. Sunday 2Ist. — We set out at sunrise, and had a pleasant morning; passed some middling high hills on the river, and rocks of a red pur- ple colour ; also two small creeks, one on each side. There are a ftw pines on the hills. At noon our course began to change more to the south-west again ; the wind blew very hard, and some drops of rain fell. In the afternoon we passed through a ridge, where tlie river is very narrow ; and close above a large cluster of small islands, where we had some difficulty to get along, the water being so much separated. We went 15 miier and a half, and encamped on the south side, on a beautiful prairie bottom. One of our hunters killed a fine deer. Lin !• was Monday S2d. — We eiubaiked eariy, the weather being pleasant ; passed some fine springs on the southern shore, and a large island near the northern. On the south side the country is level to a good distance, but on the north, the hills come close to the river. At breakfast our squaw informed us, slie had been at this place before, Vhen small. Here M-e got a quantity of wild onions. At half-past 9, we proceeded on again ; passed a large island at noon ; and in the aftc^rnoon more islands : and came to a place where Captain Clarke and his party were en- camped. They told us they had ^cen the same smoke, which we had discovered a few days ago, and found it had been made by the natives, who, they supposed, had seen some of us, and had fled, taking us for enemies. We went 17 miles and a halt; and encamped on an island ; where we found the musquitoes very bad. We saw to-day several banks of snow on a mountain west of us. Tuesday SSd.—A cloudy morning. We cm- barked early, and at the\samc time Captain Clarke and four men ^cnt on again, to endea- vour to meet with some of the natives. We had rapid water, and passed a great number of islands. Captain Clarke and his men killed four deer and a qabre, and left the skins and meat on *il!^ J >■ \i 1 f 160 the shore, where we could easily find thcni. The course of the river all day was nearly from the south, through a valley of 10 or 12 miles wide. The mountains are not so hiffh nor so J'ocky, as those we passed. Large timber is not plentiful, but there are a great quantity of small shrubs and willows. We passed a small river on the south side, and some banks of very white clay. We encapiped on an island, having made 24 miles. Wednesday 24th. — The morning was fine, aud we early prosecuted our voyage ; passed a bank of very red earth, which our squaw told us the natives use for paint. Deer are in plenty among the bushes, and one of our men killed one on the bank. We continued through the valley all day: went 19 miles, and encamped on the north side. Thursday 25th. — We embarked, and pro- ceeded on at the usual time, in a fine morning ; we passed a beautiful plain on the north side, and at 2 o'clock we came to the entrance of another chain of mountains; where we took dinner, aud again went on. Passing through this chain, we found some difficult rapids, but good water between them. This chain of moun- tains are not so high, nor so rocky as those we passed before. Six very fine springs rise on the III southern shore, about four miles above the entrance of th^ range. We went ISmiles, and encamped on the north side Friday aeth.-The morning wa, fine, and we continued our course through the mountain, There are some cedar and spruce tree, on the .hore; but very httle of any kind on the moun- tams. About U o'clock, we got through this .ange.nto a valley: about a, came to a lar^e ■sland, and halted on it for dinner. A rattle snake came among our canoes in the water of a kind different from any I had seen. It Us about two feet long, of a light colour, with small spot, all over. One of our hunters went on a-head ,„ the morning, and at this place killed 4 deer. While we remained here, it became cloudy, and some rain fell. At 4 o'clock, we pro cee> I : ' t 17« If' A half deep. The water is very cold and severe, and disagreeable to the men, who are frequently obliged to wade and drag the canoes. We went 15 miles, and encamped on the south side. Friday l^th. — We did not set out till after breakfast, and while here, one of the men Avent out and killed a fine buck. We proceeded through rapid water; the river is very narrow, ci'ooked, and shallow. Thisniorning, we passed a place where the hills come close to the river for a short distance, and then open on each side of a small valley, whicli, on account of the great quantity of service berries in it, we called Service-berry valley. We passed over a rapid of ".bout a quarter of a mile, and encamped on the south side, having come 15 mile.*. Saturday 17th. — A fine morning. Wc pro- ceeded on about 2 mile?, and discovered a number of the natives of the Snake nation coming along the bank on the south side. Cap- tain Lewis had been as far as the waters of tlie Columbia river, and met them there. We con- tinued on about 2 miles further to a place where tlie river forks, and there halted and encamped, ai'tcr much fatigue and difficulty. The water is so shallow that v>e had to drag the canoes, one at a time, almost all the way. The dis- tance across from this place to the waters of 175 the Columbia river is about 40 miles, and the road or way said to be good. There were about twenty of the natives came over with Captain Lewis, and had the same number of horses. Here we unloaded the canoes, and had a talk with the Indians, and agreed with them that they should lend us some of their horses to carry our baggage to the Columbia river. Sunday I8th.—A fine morning. We bought three horses of the Indians. Captain Clarke, and eleven more, witli our interpreter and his wife, and all the Indians, sat out at eleven o'clock to go over to the Columbia. The Indians went for horses to carry our baggage, and we to search for timber to make canoes for descendino- the Columbia. We proceeded up the north branch, which is the largest and longest branch of Jefferson river, through a handsome valley, about 5 miles wide. In this we found a number of springs and small branches, but no timber. There is plenty of grass and clover, and also some flax all along it. The Indians all except five, went on ahead. We travelled 15 miles, and encamped close on the branch which is about 5 yards wide. Here we killed two small deer. The country all around is very mountainous, with some few pine trees on the mountains. At three o'clock this afternoon, there was a vio- lent gust of wind, and some ruin fell. In about >fi 174 an hour the weather became clear, and very cold, and continued cold all night. Monday 19th. — A fine morning, but cold, Wc proceeded on at 8 o'clock, along the valley for six miles, when the hills came more close on the branch, which here divides into three parts, or other small branches, and two miles further, tlie principal branch again forks, where the mountains commence with a thick grove of small pines on our left, and large rocks on our right. At 1 o'clock we dined at the head spring of the Missouri and Jefferson rivers, about 25 miles from the place, where#we had left the ca- noes, and from which the course is nearly west. Alx>ut 5 miles south of us we saw snow on the top of a mountain, and in the morning there was a severe white frost : but the sun shines very warm where we now are. At 3 o'clock we pro* cceded en, and at the foot of the dividing ridge, we met two Indians coming to meet us, and who appeared very glad to see us. The people of this nation, instead of shaking hands as a toki-^n of friendship, put their arms round the neck of the person they salute. It is not more than a mile from the head spring of the Missouii, to tlie head of one of the branches of the Columbia. We proceeded on through the mountain; passed some fine springs, and encamped about 3G miles from our camp, where m 17.5 the canoes arc. Here we were met by a num- ber of the natives. Tuesday 20th. — A fine cool frosty morninj^. We sat out early and travelled about 4 miles, to a village of the Indians, on the bank of a branch of the Columbia river, about ten yards wide and very rapid. At this pkce there are about 25 lodges made of willow bushes. They are tlie poorest and most miserable nation I ever beheld ; having scarcely any thing to sub- sist on, except berries and a few fish, which they contrive by some means to take. Tliey have a great many fine horses and nothing more; and on account of these, are much harassed by other nations. They move about in any direc- tion where the berries are in most plenty. VV^e had along talk with tliem, and they gave us very unfavourable accounts with respect to and .,.d a fine morning; passe( ie Indian ca p, ^' here ' y gave us a li tie ot over the four mountains, auw encamped in the valley. Two men went to hunt, and all the rest went to fish. We soon caught as many small fish as made, Avith two salmon our ^ ide ^'ot from some Indians, a comfortable suj r. At dark, our hunters came in and had killed but one beaver. Monday 26th. — We had again a pleasant morning; and four hunters went on early a-head, and one man to look for the horses. We breakfasted on the beaver and a salmon, which had been saved from supper the preceding even- ing. The man, M'ho had gone for the horses, having returned without finding them, 4 or 5 more went out, and our guide immediately found them. We then, about 10 o'clock, proceeded on to the forks, where we found our hunters ; but they had killed nothing. So we went up to a small village of the natives, got some fish from them, and lodged there all night. Tuesday 27th. — A fine morning with frost; and eight of us went out to hunt. I observed some flax growing in the bottoms on this river, II II "f I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■50 — '^ m m ^ US, 2.5 20 1.8 M. illM V] m ^h "3 1' 0^. Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ \ ^ - ^ ». 'r\ <>. % ^ #^ 'and the other 18 inches long: the s))ort $tick they lay down flat, and ;ub the end curious. 1^3 • of th^^ other u^oti it ih a |)^ipenxUeul8ir dirfeti- tioil, fat a ft?tr rainuttfi ; ahd thfe frifetitth ftihti . a kind of dust, which in a short timfc takes fire. Thest peoplti Wakfe wiilttW baskets i»i clbse, atid toSutih pertfectibti, a^ td hold W^^f, ffei-whifeb jjUffiWe thfe^ inkke usfe of them. They ttiftke much use of the sun-flower and lambs-^^arter seed, as before mentioned ; which, with berries and wild-cherries pounded tog?»ther, compose the only bread they have any knowledge of, or in use. The fish they take in this river are of excellent kinds, especially the salmon, the roea of which, when dried and pounded, make the best of soup. Friday 30th. — ^We remained here all day, and in the evening the whole of the corps came down within a mile of our camp, and remained there all night, beings a good place for grass. Saturday 31st. — They all came down to our camp, and we proceeded on with 27 horses and one mule. Our old guide, after consulting with the rest of the Indians, thought it was better to go along the north side of the Columbia, than on the south side. We therefore proceeded down, the same way Captain Clarke had been before, 30 miles, and then turned up a creek that comes in from the north, and encamped on it about 3 miles and a half from the mouth. 184 Two hunters had gone on u-head this morning, and at night joined us, having killed one deer. The first cost of the articles, which had been given for each horse, did not amount to more than from three to five dollars ; so that the whole of them only cost about one hundred dolUi's. IBS CHAPTER XII. ''■ ^tota the 1st, to the 14th of September, 1805. We proceed on our Journey. Difficulty of travelling. A considerable fall of Snow. Reach the Tussapa Band of the Flat-head Nation of Indians. Description of them. We pursue our Journey. Cross over Flat' head River. Cross Stony Creek. i'' i. iJ Tm Sunday ist sept. iscj. — we set out early in a fine morning, and travelled on nearly a west course. We found here the greatest quantity and best service- berries, I had ever seen before ; and abundance of choak-cherries. There is also a small bush grows in this part of the country, about 6 inches high, which bears a bunch of small purple berries ; some call it mountain holly; the fruit is of an acid taste. We are much better supplied with water than I expected ; and cross several fine springs among the mountains through which we pass. At noon, some rain fell, and the day con- I'll / fmued cloiuly. About the middle of the day Capt. CTarke's black man's feet became so sore that lie had to ride on horseback. At 3 o'clock we came to a creek, whfcfe there was fine grass, and we halted to let our horses eat. There are a great number of fish in this creek. After we baited, the weather became cloudy, and a consi- deraMe quantity of rain fell. We therefore con- cluded to remain where we were all night» Wing come this day 18 miles. Our huntm killed a deer, and we caught 5 fish. MoiKlay 2d.~The morning was cloudy. We set out early; proceeded up the creekj ahd passed some port closely timbered wkh spruce »nd pine. We went on with difficulty on ac- count of the bushes, tire narrowness of tho way and' stones that injured oUr hordes* ffcet, tliey Iwing without shoes. In the forenOOh Wt ki\\^ ^ some pheasants afid ducks, ihd a iittdU squirreir In the "afterhooh \H had a g6Qd deil 6f^ tdh, tfid the worst road (Ht rbad it eari U called) that Was tvet ttavt\kl The CrWk a befc6ftle imall arid the hills Coittc Close iii lipOh th<* bknks 6f it, covered thick With stdtidlfig tiinbef and fallett trtes ; so that hi sOm« pkea w<* ^efe obliged tt g6 up the Sides of tk hills, which are very «teep, atld then d6wh. again in order ^6 g<*t along at ill. Ifi geihg up these ascent*, the fcorses A< Guld SOfiietiftieS fall backwards, wtiich 187 injured them very much ; and one was so badly hurt, that the driver was obliged to leaVe hi* load on the side of one of the hills. In the low ground there are most beautiful tall straight pine trees of different kinds, except of white pine. Game is scarce ; and a small quantity of dried salmon, whicli we got from the natives^ is almost our whole stock of provisions. A son of our guide joined us to-day, and is going on. We went 13 miles and encamped; but some of the men did not come up till late at night. Tuesday 3d. — The morning of this day was cloudy and cool. Two men went back with a horse to bring on the load, which had been left behind last night ; and we breakfasted on the last of our salmon and waited their return. Two hunters were sent on ahead, and on the return of the two men, who had been sent back, we pur- sued our journey up the creek, which still con- tinued fatiguiu«^ almost beyond description. The country is very mountainous and thickly timbered ; niottly with spruce pine. Having gone nine miles^ we halted for dinner, which was composed of a small portion of flour we had along with us, and the last of our pork, whiolt was but a trifle : — Our hunters had not killed »ny thing. We staid here about two hours, during which time some rain fell, and the m 188 weather was extremely cold for the season. We then went on about 5 miles, over a large mountain, to tae head of another creek, and en- camped there for the night. This was not the creek our guide wished to have come upon; and to add to our misfortunes, we had a cold evening, with rain. Wednesday 4th.— A considerable quantity of snow fell last night, and the morning was cloudy. After eating a few grains of parched corn, we set out at 8 o'clock ; crossed a large mountain, and hit on the creek and small valley, which were wished for by our guide. We killed some pheasants on our way, and were about to make use of the last of our flour, when, to our great joy, one of our hunters killed a fine deer. So we dined upon that and proceeded down a small valley about a mile wide, with a rich black soil ; in which there are a great quantity of sweet roots and herbs, such as sweet myrrh, angelica, and several others, that the natives make use of, and of the names of which I am unacquainted. There is also timothy grass growing in it; and neitficr the valley nor the hills arc so thickly timbered, as the mountains we had lately passed. What timber there is, is mostly pitch pine. We kept down the valley about 5 miles, and came to thcTussapa band of 189 of the Flat-head nation of Indians, or a pa them. We found them encamped on the creek, and we encamped with them.* Thursday 5th.— This was a fine morning with a great white frost. The Indian dogs are so hungry and ravenous, that they eat 4 or 5 pair of our mockasons last night. We remained here all day, and recruited our horses to 40 and 3 colts ; and made 4 or 5 of this nation of In- dians chiefs. They are a very friendly people; have plenty of robes and skins for covering, and a large stock of horses, some of which are very good ; but they have nothing to eat, but berries, roots, and such articles of food. This band is on its way over to the Missouri or Yellow-stone river, to hunt buffaloe. They are the whitest Indians lever saw. Friday 6th. A cloudy morning. We ex- changed some of our horses, that were fatigued, with the natives; about 12 o'clock some rain fell; and we prepared to move on. At 1, we started, when the Indians also set out. We pro- ceeded over a mountain to a creek, and went * Captain Clarke, in his letter to his brother, calls them the Oleachshoot band of the Tucknapax. It is of no very great impor- tance, at present, t» know by what names the several tribes and bands are distinguished; and Mr. Gass says that without an inter- preter it was very difficult to ajssrtain them with any degree of cer- tainty. ( ! I ! (■ ' I . 'I t 190 clown the creek, our course heing iiorth-west ; found the country mountainous and poor ; and the game scarce. Having travelled about 7 miles, Me encamped. Four hunters had been out to-day, but killed nothing ; we. therefore supped upon a small quantity of corn we had yet left. Saturday 7th. — We set out early on a cloudy cool morning, and our hunters went on as usual. We proceeded down the creek, and in our way we were met by a hunter who had not come in last night, and who had lost his horse. We halted at la o'clock, and one of the hunters killed 2 deer ; which was a subject of much joy and congratulation. Here we remained to dine, and some rain fell. On the south of this place there are very high mountains covered with snow and timber, and on the north, prairie hills. After staying here 2 hours, we proceeded on down the creek ; found the country much the same as that which we had passed through in the forenoon; and having travelled about 20 miles since the morning, encamped for the night. The valley is become more extensive, and eur creek has increased to a considerable river. Some rain fell m the afternoon, and our hunters killed two cranes on our way. Sunday 8tb.— The morning was wet, and wc ]^Foceje4€d on over some beautiful pkins. One of our hunters had remained out all night,, at ■^ 191 noon we halted, and they all came in, having killed an elk and a deer. At 2, we proceeded on again, and had a cold, wet, and disagreeable af- ternoon, but our road or way was level along the valley. Having travelled 30 miles, we en* camped and our hunters came in, one of whom had killed a deer, and another had caMght two mares and a colt, which he brought with hini. Monday 9th.— The morning was fair, but cool; and we continued our journey down the river. The soil of the valley is poor and gra- velly ; and the high snow-topped mountains are still in view on our left : our course generally north a few degrees w^t. We halted at noon : on our way the hunters had killed 3 wild geese : so we have plenty of provisions at present. At 2 o'clock, we again went forward, and crossed over the Flat-head river, about 100 yards wide, and which we called Clarke's river; passed through a close tifnbered bottom of about twq mil^s, ;md again came into beautiful plains. The timber on this bottom is pitch pine. We tra^ v^lted 19 miles and encamped on a large creek, which comes in from the south. Our hunters tliis day killed 3 deer. Tuesday 1 0th. -»- We remained here all this (fey, whkk wa« clear and pleasant, to let our Wsc$ rest, att4 tQ take an observation. At nJgH Qur huot€r« csMne, iq, jjnd had killed 5 ■ VJ'2 deer. With one of the hunters, three cf the Flat-head Indians came to our camp. They in- formed us that tlie rest of their band was over on the Cohunbia river, about 5 or 6 days' jour- ney distant, with pack-horses; that two of the Snake nation had stolen some of their horses, and that they were in pursuit of them. We gave tliem some presents, and one stayed to go over the mountains with us ; the other two con- tinued their pursuit. Wednesday 1 1th.— This was a fine morning, and we went out to collect our horses, in order to renew our journey, and found all but one. Captain Lewis had a meridian altitude that gave 46* 48' 28" 8. north latitude. In the bot- toms here, there are a great quantity of cher- ries. The mDuntains are not so high, as at some distance back. At 4 o'clock in the after- noon, the horse was found, and we proceeded on up the creek nearly a west course, through small bottoms. We went about 6 miles and en- camped ; when our hunters came in, but had killed nothing. The country is poor and moun- tainous. Thursday 12th. — We started early on our journey, and had a fine morning. Having tra- velled 2 miles, we reached the mountains, which a.'c very steep ; but the road over them pretty good, as it is much travelled by the natives, F i ; Ids wlio come across to the Flat-bead river to ga- ther cherries and berries. Our hunters in a short time killed 4 deer. At noon, we halted at a branch of the creek, on the banki of which are a inirt»ber of strawberry vines, haws, and service-be^rry bushes. At 2, we proceeded on over a large mountain, wh^rc there is no water, and we could find no place to encamp mitil lat^ at night, when we sLrnved at a small branch, and cttcamped by if, in a very inconvenient place, having come 23 miles. • /Jm:'. ^M&y 13th.— A cloudy morning. Captain Lewis's hors^ conld not be found ; biit some of the men were left to hunt fbr him, and we pro- ceeded on. When we had gone 2 miles, we came to a most beautiful warm Spring* the Wa- ter of which is considerably above bleiod-feeat J and I could not bear my hand in it witftouk un- easincM. There are so many pathis leadino" to and from this spring, that our guide took a wrong one for a mile or two, and w^ had bad travelling acrosd till we got into the road again: At noon we halted. Game is scarce ; and our hunteri killed nothing since* yesterdayimorning j though 4 of the best were constantly outy and every one' of them furnished with a godd horse. While we remained here, Captain Lewis and the men, who had been left with him, came up; but had not found the h6tie. At 2 o'clock, we o 194 proceeded on again over a mountain, and in our way found a deer, which our hunters had killed and hung up. In a short time we met with them and Captain LeM'is sent two back to look for the horse. We passed over a dividing ridge to the waters of another creek, and after travelling 1 2 miles, we encamped on the creek, up which there arC; some prairies or plains, [.gatuiday 14th. — We set out early in a cloudy mora'ng ; passed over a large mountain, orpssed Stony creek, about SO yards wide, and then went over another large mountain, on which I saw service-berry bushes hanging full of fruit ; but not yet rjpf, owing to the coldness of the climate on these mountains: I also saw a num- ber of otlier shrubs, which bear fruit, but for which I know, no names. There are black elder and boriS-tree, pitch and spruce pine all growing together on these mountains. Being here un- able to find a place to halt at, where our horses could feed, wc went on to the junction of Sto- ny creek, with another large creek, which, a short distance down, becomes a considerable river, and encamped for the night, sm it rained and was disagreeable travelling. The two hun- ters that bad gone back, here joined us with Captain Lewis's horse, but none of the hunters killed any thing except 2 or 3 pheasants ; on •>vhich, without a miracle, it was impossible to 195 feed 30 hungry men and upwards, besides some Indians. So Captain Lewis gave out some por- table soup, which he had along with him, to be used in cases of necessity. Some of the men did not relish this soup, and agreed to kill a colt ; which they immediately did, and set about roast- ing it, and which appeared to me to be good eating. This day we travelled 17 miles. • Q iM 195 CHAPTER Xni. ! . >i? Frbm the 15th of September, to the 14th of October, 1805. The Joumry continued. ScarcUii/ of Provisions. Sick' ness of our Men. The Country described. We em- bark and continue our Voyage, Sunday 15th. — Having breakfasted on our colt, we moved oli down the river 3 miles, and again took the mountains. In going up, one of the horses fell, and required 8 or 10 men to assist him in getting up again. We continued our march to 2 o'clock, when we halted at a spring and dined on portable soup, and a hand- ful of parched corn. We then proceeded on our journey over the mountain to a high point, where, it being dark, we were obliged to en- camp. There was here no water ; but a bank of snow answered as a substitute ; and we sup- ped upon soup. Monday l6th. — Last night about 18 o'clock it began to snow. We renewed our march early, 197 tliougli the morning was v^ry disagreeable, and proceeded over the most terrible mountain I ever beheld. It continued snowing until 3 o'clock P. M. when we halted, took some more soup, and went on till we came to a small stream vhere we encamped for the night. Here we killed another colt and supped on it. The snow fell so thick, and the day was so dark, that a person could not see to a distance of 200 yards. In the night and during the day, the snow fell about 10 inches deep, Tuesday 17th. — Our horses scattered so much last night, that they were not collected until Hoon, at which time we began our march again. It was a fine day, with Avarm sunshine, which melted the snow very fast on the south sides of the hills, and made the travelling very fatiguing and uncomfortable. We continued over high desert mountains, where our hunters could find no game, nor signs of any except a bear's tract which they observed to-day. —At dark we halted at a spring on the top of a mountain ; killed another colt, and encamped there all night. Wednesday 18th. — This was a clear cold frosty morning. All our horses except one were collected early : six hunters went on a- head ; one man to look for the horse ; and all the rest of us proceeded on our journey over the mountains, which are very high and rough. m ' V • 198 About 12, we passed a part where the snow was off, and no appearance that much had lately fallen. At 3, we came to snow again, and halted to take some soup, which we made with snow water, as no other could be found. Here the man who had been sent for the horse came up, but had not found him. Except on the sides of hills where it has fallen, the country is closely timbered with pitch and spruce pine, and what some call balsam fir. We can see no pro- spect of getting off these desert mountains yet, except the appearance of a deep cove on each side of the ridge we are passing along. Wc remained here an hour and a half, and then pron ceeded on down a steep mountain, and encamp- ed After travelling 1 8 miles. We had great dif- ficulty in getting water, being obliged to go half a mile for it down a very steep precipice. Thursday 19th. — Our hunters did not join us last night, which was disagreeably cold. About 8 this morning we set out, and proceed- ed on 111 our way over the mountains ; the sun shining warm and pleasant. We travelled a west course, and about 12 o'clock, halted at a spring to take a little more soup. The snow is chiefly gone except on the north points of the high mountains. At 2 P. M. we again went on, and descended a steep mountain into a cove on our left hand, where there is a large creek 199 wliicli here runs towards the east. The hills on each side, along which the trail or path passes, are very steep. One of our horses fell down the precipice about 100 feet, and was not killed, nor niuch hurt : the reason was, that there is no bottom below, and the precipice, the only bank wliich the creek has ; therefore the horse pitched into the water, without meetint Dine o'clock we left our camp ; proceeded down the river about five miles to the forks; 205 and pitched our camp in a handsome small bottom opposite the point. A number of the natives Gam€ down in small canoes, and encamp ed close t"* us, for the purpose of fishhig ; and while we were encafnping, we saw a small raft coming down the north fork loaded with fisb. There appears to be a kind of sheep in this country, besides the Ibex or mountain sheep^ and whith have wool on. I saw som« of the skins, nrhkh the natives had, with wool four inches long, and as fine, white and soft as any I had ev«r seen. I also saw a buffaloe robe with it» wool OF fur on, as fine and soft as that ofbeaveri Captain Lewis procured this, which we considered a curiosity, in exchange for another b^uifaloe robe. I This band of the Flat-heads hav6 a ^reat raatiy beads and^ other articles, which they say they got from white men at the mou'lh of this river*; or where the salt wat^r is. They have a Urge stock of horseiv Their buffaloe robes and other skins they chiefly procure on th€ Missoiirr^ whefii' they go over to hunt, as there are no buffeloe i^ tl«s part of the country m'd very little othe* g««>e. Th« most of the men of this band* are at present on a wat-exped!ti«n against so«|«: flatfeni to the nf this day, which was very pleasant, and repaired our canoe. In the evening we got her completed and all the baggage dry. Here our old Snake guide deserted and took his son with him. I suspect he was afraid of being cast away passing the rapids. At dark, one of the squaws, who ke«p about us, took a crazy fit, and cut her arms from the wrists to the shoulders, with a flint; and the natives had great trouble and difficulty in getting her pacified. We have some Frenchmen, who prefer dog-flesh to fish ; and they here got two or three dogs from the Indians. All the country around is high prai- rie, or open plains. Thursday 10th.— We had a fine morning; embarked early, and passed over some very bad rapids. In passing over one, a canoe sprung a i'" >»8il mo leak, but 4id not pink ; though the greater part of the loading was wet ; and we had to halt and dry it. We stopped a short distance ahiOve the junction af this with another large rive*'. Tlie native? ,call this eastern branch Koos-kpos-ke, and the western Ki-mo-ee-neni. Yesterday evening I h^d a fit of the ague, and haye been very unwell to-day ; so much so that I ^m un- able to steer my canoe. In about two hours we continued our voyage again ; we found the south west branch very large, and of a gosling- green colour. AbQut a mile belpw the con- fluence \ye lialted o'n the north side and en- camped for the night, as the wind blew so hard we could not proceed. We came twenty miles to-day. Friday lUh. — We set out early in a fine morning; proceeded oa about six miles, and halted at some lodges of the natives, where we got fish and several dogs. Wc continued here about an hour and then went on. No accident happened to-day though we passed some bid rapids. In the evening we stopped at some Indian canips and remained all night, having come thirty miles. Here we got more fish an4 dogs. Most of our people having been ^ficusr tomed to meat, do not rc(isli the fish, but pre- fer dog-meat ; which, wheq well cooked, tastgi very weu. Here wc met ^n I^di^n ofaQotlxy" 1^11 nation, who iriformed us we contd get to the falls in four days : which I presume are not verj^ high, as the salmon come above them in abun- dance. The country on both Sides is high dry prairie plains without a stick of timber, there is no wood 6f any kind to be seen except a few small willows along the shore ; so that it is xyith difficulty we can get enough to cook with, the hills on the river are not very high, but rocky • the rocks of a dark colour, the bed and shores of the river ire very stony; and the stones of a round smooth kind. Saturday 12th.-. We ha^ a fine mobing and proceeded on early. Two of the flat-head chiefs remained on board with us, and( two of their men went with the stranger in a small canoe, and acted as pilots or guides. We saw some ducks and a few geese, but did not kill any of them. There is no four-footed game of any kind near this part of the river, that we could discover ; and we saw no birds of any kind, but a few hawks, eagles and crows. At noon we halted, cooked and eat some fish, and then pro> ccedcd on. The country arid river this day is much the same in appearance as what we passed yesterday. A, little before sunset we came to a bad rapid, which we did not wish to pass at night, go we encamped above on the north side, Slaving made thirty miles. re II ^ Is •-' ''i! • i i'^'^P! I 1212 Some of the Flat-head nation of Indians live all along thf^ river this far down. There are LOt more than four lodges in a place or village, and these small camps or villages are eight or ten miles apart : at each camp there are five or six small canoes. Their summer lodges are made of willows and flags, and their winter lodges of split pine, almost like rails, which they bring down on rafts to this part of the river where there is no timber. Sunday 13th.— This was a cloudy wet morn- ing, and we did not set out till eleven o'clock : we then proceeded with two canoes at a time over the rapids, which are about two miles in length ; and in about two hours got all over safe. We then went on again and passed more bad rapids, but got through safe. In the afternoon the weather cleared and we had a fine evening. Having gone twenty-three miles, we encamped on the north side. The country continues much the same, all high Jry prairie. One hand- some creek comes in on the south side. Monday Uth.— We embarked early in a fine clear cool morning; passed some rapids; and at eleven came to one very bad, but we got over without injury. We saw some geese and ducks this forenoon and killed some of the ducks. About one o'clock a canoe hit a rod, and parw of her iunk, and a number of the 213 things floated out. With the assistance of the other canoes all the men got safe to shore; but the baggage was wet, and ^ome articles were lost. We halted on an island to dry the bag- gage, having come fourteen miles. '1 av^t ■\V- V'l i • 1 ■'"!.'; "\ dA Sfl4, ii 1 •Mi .': I CHAPTER XIV., Mi, V;,: ■Ai' ,3'^C^ From the 15th of October to the 3d of November, 1805. The Voyage continmd. Arrive at the Great Columbia Jtroer. Description of it. We encamp on a point between the two Rivers. The Natives described. Pro' ceed on our Voyage. Pass a great number of Indian Camps. Remain at an Indian Village all night, Pro- ceed on our Voyage. Mount Hood, Tuesday 15tli.— Thlsday was fine, clear and pleasant ; and we continued here until the after- noon to dry our baggage that had been wet y ester- day. The natives have great quantities of fish* * Immense numbers of salmon must ascend the western rivers every summer from the Pacific,,and constitute a chief article in the food of the natives. Mr. M'Kenzie informs us that in the river, by which he arrived at the ocean, where it empties itself four or five hundred miles northwest of the mouth of the Columbia, the salmon arc so abyndant, that the natives have a constant and plentiful supply of that excellent fish. He also on his returi> states, under the date of the 6th and 7th of August, that the salmon in the waters of the Columbia were driving up the current in such large shoal?, that the water seenjcvl to be coTcrcd with the fins of them. 215 (kpositeJon this island. At 3 o'clock I^.M. we got a'Houf eir(iry, around there are only level plains, ex- c about 2 o/clock,' at a great Indian village, and remained there all niglit. We got fiah and dogs from the natives, and some berries, different from any we got be- fore, some ca^l tiicm cranberries; whether of tljfi real l^ind or not I am not certiin. In our way down to-day, we saw a great many sea otters swimming in the river, and killed some, but could not get them, as they sunk to the bottom. This village has better lodges than any on the river above ; o^e story of which i* sunk under ground and lined with flag mats. The upper part, about 4 feet above ground, is covered over with cedar bark, and they aje tole- rably cornfertable houses. Friday 25th. — We found there Mere bad rapids in the narrows, and therefore carried over part of our baggage by land, about three quarters of a mile ; aad then took the canoe.v over, one at a time. In going over, one of them filled with water, on account of which we were detained three hours. The rapids continued 3 or 4 miles, when the river became more placid At night we came to a place where there is a considerable quantity of timber on the hills both oak and pine, and encamped at the moutil of a creek on the *outh side. The natives about h€re are, or pretend to be, very uneasy, and say the Indiana below will kill us. We puiv Gbased from them- a quantity of dried pounded fish, wbich fh&y had prepared in that way fof^ 224 sale. They have six scaffolds of a great size for the purpose of drying their fish on. Saturday 26th. — A fine morning. We hauled up all our canoes, to dress and repair them, as they had heen injured in passing over the por- tagre round the falls. Some hunters went out and killed 6 deer and some squirrels. In the afternoon, about 20 of the natives came to our camp (among whom were the head chiefs of the two villages about the falls) who had been out hunting when we passed down. The Command- ing Officers gave medals to the chiefs, and some other small articles ; and they appeared stisfied, and some remained with us all night. ' * Sunday 27th. — ^This was a fine clear morning, but the wind blew very hard up the river, and we remained here all day. This is the first hunting ground we have had for a long time, and some of our men went out. Part of the natives remained with us ; but we cannot find out to wliat nation they belong. We suppose them to be a band of the Flat-head nation, as all their heads are compressed into the same form ; though they do not speak exactly the same language, but there is no great difference, and this may be a dialect of the same. This sin- gular and deforming operation is performed in infancy in the following manner. A piece of board is placed against the back of the head, ex- I I . lii SS5 tending fr6m the shouiders some distance above it; another shorter piece extends from the eye- brows to the top of the first, and they are then bound together with thongs or cords made of skins, so as to press back the forehea I, make the head rise at the top, and force it out above the ears. In the evening, our hunters came in and had killed 4 deer, and some squirrels. The wind blew hard all this day. Monday 28th. — Just before day-hght there was a shcnrer of rain ; but at sun-rise the morn- ing was fine and clear. At 8 o'clock we em- barked, went about 4 miles, and halted at a small village of the natives, and got some dogs from them. Here we stayed about an hour, and proceeded on again for about a mile, when we were compelled to stop on account of the wind, which blew so h.^d a-head, that we were unable to continue our voyage. In the course of the day there were some showers of rain. In the evening one of the men went out and killed a line deer. We were in a good safe harbour and remained there all night, accompanied by the , natives, Tuesday 29th. -- We embarked early in a cloudy morning; passed high hills on both, sides of the river, on which there was pine tim- ber ; and some birch on the banks of the river. At breakfast time we stopped at a small village of II t I m- f 226 the natives, and purcliased same more dogs: then proceeded on ; passed a number more In- dian camp», and a high mountainous country on both sides. In the evening we discovered a high mountain to tlie south, not more than five miles off, covered with snow. We have here still water; and the breadth of the river is from three quarters to a mile. We went 23 miles and encamped at a small village on the north side. Wednesday 30th.— The moi ning was cloudy ; the river and country ue found much the same as yesterday. At noon we stopped to dine, and one of the men went out and killed a large buck. A number of fine springs come down the hills on the south side ; and we passed a small river on the north. In the evening we came to the head of falls, where there is a large Indian village. On our way down we saw a great many swans, geese, and ducks ; and a number of sea-otter. There are some small bottoms along the river, with cotton- wood on them, and on the banks of the river some white oak, ash, and hazle-nut. At a distance there are ponds which abound with geese and ducks. It rained hard all day, and we Cdme only 15 miles. Thursday 31st. — Tlie morning was cloudy. We unloaded our canoes and took them past the rapids, some part of the way by water, and 2S7 some over rocks 8 or 10 feet high. It was the most fatiguing business we have been engaged in for a long time, and we got but two over all day ; the distance about a mile, and the fall of the water about 25 feet in that distance. Friday 1st Nov. 1805.-~We had a cool frosty morning. \f e carried down our baggage before breakfast, as we could not go into the water, without uneasiness on aCcoiint of the cold. In the forenoon we took down the other two ca- noes. A number of the natives, with 4 tanoes joined us here from above. Their canoes were loaded with pounded salmon, which they wer^e takmg down the river to barter for beads and other articled. Saturday 2d. - There is here a small rapid below the falls, Avhere the men had to carry part of the baggage across a portage of two miles and a half, while the rest took down the canoes. At 12 o'clock we proceeded on again ; passed a narrow rapid part of the river,of about 8 miles, the Inlls on both sides are very high, and a number ot fine springs flowing out of them, sortie of which fall 200 feet perpendicular, the hill5 are mostly solid rock. On our way we passed two Indian lodges. At the end of eight miles, the river opens to the breadth of a mile, with a gentle current. We came 23 miles, and eil- camped at a high ^eak resembling a tower on m\ 328 the south side. The country here becomes level, and the river broader. One of the In^ dian canoes remained with us, and the other three went on. On our way, and at camp, we killed 1 7 geese and brants. Sunday 3d. —The morp'» • ''a? foggy : one' of the men went out and kilR. .le buck. At 9 we proceeded on, but could not see the coun- try we were passing on account of the fog, which was very thick till noon, when it disap- peared, and we had a beautiful day. We at that time came to the mouth of a river on the south side, a quarter of a mile broad, but not more than 6 or 8 inches deep, running over a bar of quicksand. At this place we dined on venison and goose ; and from which we can see the high point of a mountain covered with snow, in about a south-east direction from us. Our Com- manding Officers arc of opinion thiit it is Mount Hood, discovered by a Lieutenant of Vancou- ver, who was up this river 75 miles. The river that falls in here has two mouths, through which it drives out a considerable quantity Qf sand into the Columbia. Opposite the lower mouth there is a handsome island. At 2 o'clock we proceeded on, and passed another island. The country on both sides, appears level, and closely timbered : on the river the timber is cotton-wood, maple, and some ash; and back .» 2S9 becomes P the In^ lie other amp, we gy : one ick. At ;he coun- the fog, it disap- ^e at that the south not more r a bar of nison and the high snow, in )ur Coin- is Mount Vancou- rhe river through lantity gf ;he lower 2 o'clock r island, evel, and timber is ind back from it mostly spruce pine. We made 13 miles and encamped on a large island, in which is a large pond full of swans, geese, and ducks. On our way, and here, we killed some of each kind. At night, Captain Lewis had a small canoe carried over to the pond, in order to hunt by moonlight ; but the party did not hap- pen to have good luck, having killed only a swan and three ducks. iJdO C3HAPTER XV. From ^he 4th to the 16th of November, 1805. Pass two large Islands. Arrive at an Indian Village. Mount Rain?/. Come to an Indian Camp. Cape Swell. Shallow Bat/. The Voyage continued. We discover the Waves like small mountains rolling out in the Oceattf Monday 4th. ^ a fine moming. We embarked early ; passed two large islands, and a beautiful part of the river. The tide raised the water last night 2 feet. We went about 7 miles and came to a large Tndian village, where they informed us that in two days we should come to two ships with white people in them. The Indians here have a great deal of new cloth among them, and other articles which they got from these ships. We got some dogs and roots from the natives. The roots are of a superior quality to any I had before seen ; they are called whapto; resemble a potatoe when cooked,and are aai about as big as a hen's egg. Game is more plenty here than up the river, and one of the men kill- ed a deer this morning. At this camp of the natives they have '5'i canoes, well calculated for riding waves. We proceeded on, and pas- sed spme handsome islands, and down a beauti- ful part of the river. We also passed a number of Indian lodges ; and saw a great many swans, geese, ducks, cranes, and gulls. We went 38 miles, and encamped on the north side. Jn the evening we saw Mount Rainy on the same side. It is a handsome point of a mountain, with lit- tle or no timber on it, very high, and a consi- derable distance off this place. Tuesday 5th. — We embarked very early. Some rain fell last night about 3 o'clock, and the morning was cloudy. We passed several handsome islands, generally near the shore, on the one side or the other of the river. The country on both sides, is somewhat higher than what we passed yesterday, and closely covered with spruce timber. The bottoms are large, covered with cotton-wood, maple, and the like kinds of wood. We passed a great many Indian camps, their lodges made chiefly of poles and cedar bark. At noon we stopped about an hour at an island, and some of the men went out and killed nine brants and a swan, Three of the brants were quite white, except thp points of I 232 their wings, which were black. We proceeded on in the afternoon, during which some rain and a little hail fell ; went 31 miles and en- camped on the north side. Here the tide rises and falls 4 feet. Wednesday 6th. — We set out early in a clou- dy morning, after a disagreeable night of rain. Saw a number of the natives, going up and down the river in canoes. Also passed some of their lodges. The Indians in this part of the country have but few horses, their intercourse and business being chiefly by water. The high land comes more close on the river in this part. Having gone 39 miles, we encamped on the south side. Thursday 7th. — We set out again early in a foggy morning ; went about 6 miles and came to an Indian camp, where we got some fresh fish and dogs. The dress of the squaws here is dif- ferent from that of those up the river ; it con- sists of a long fringe made of soft bark, which they tie round the waist, and which comes down almost to their knees ; and of a small robe, made out of small skins cut into thongs, and wove somewhat like carpeting. We re- mained here about 2 hours and then proceeded on. At this place the river is about 3 miles wide, with a number of small islands, and the country broken. In the evening we came to 233 H part of the river, where it is 5 miles broad. We went 34 miles and encamped on the south side, at the moutli of a fme spring. Friday 8th.— We embarked early. Tlie morn- ing was cloudy, and there was a hard wind from the east. We went about 5 miles and came to a bay 13 or 14 miles wide. We had to coast round it, as the wind raised the waves so high we could go no other way. We halted and di- ned at a point on the north side of tlie bay, where a small river comes in. We again pro- ceeded on coasting, till we came to a point of land, where the bay becomes much narrower ; and the water quite salt. The waves here ran so high we were obliged to lie to, and let the tide leave our canoes on dry ground. This point we called Cape Swell ; and the bay above. Shallow Bay, as there is no great depth of water. In crossing the bay when the tide was out, some of our men got sea-sick, the swells were so great. In it there are a great many swans, geese, ducks, and other water-fowls. The whole of this day was wet and disagreeable; and the distance we made in a straight line, was not more than 9 miles , though the distance we coasted was above 20 miles. Saturday 9th. — The morning was windy, rainy, and disagreeable ; and ^ve were obliged \\- ' '■'{ ^1 1 ^1 ^^H BB ■fl I ' 1 - '^'■'' WW m^ iiB niTmliflF ^^B i ■ if m 1 k 1 354 t to remain at Cape Swell all day, and unload out canoes to prevent them from sinking ; notwith- standing some of them did sink, when the tide came in at noon. We had no fresh water, ex- cept what rain we caught by putting out our ves- sels. We remained here all night, and the rain continued. Sunday 1 0th. — We had a rainy morning, but the wind was not so high as it had been yester- day ; and we set out from Cape Swell, coasted along for 8 miles, passed some high cliffs of sandy rocks, and then came to a point ; where we found the swells so high, the wind having risen, that we could not proceed : so we had to return back about a mile to get a safe har- bour. Here we dined on some pounded salmon that we had procured from the Indians ; and unloaded our canoes. After we had been here about 2 hours, it became more calm, and we loaded the canoes again, but could not get round the point, the swells were still so high ; we therefore put to at a branch of fresh water, under high cliffs of rocks, and unloaded again. Here we scarcely had room to lie between the rocks and water : but we made shift to do it among some drift-wood, that had been beat up by the tide. It rained hard all night, and was very disagreeable. While on our way down to- I 335 ihy^ we saw some porpoises, sea-otter, and a great many sea-gulls. The water is become very salt. Monday 1 1th. — The morning was wet, and the wind still blowing, ^o that we could not proceed : we therefore built large fires, and made our situation as con)tortable as possible, but still bad enough, as we have no tents or cover- ing to defend us, except our blankets and some mats we got from the Indians, which we put on poles to keep off the rain. It continued raining and blowing all day ; and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon the tide was so higji, that we had to leave our lodges, until it got lower in the evening. Some of the men went about 40 perches up the river and caught 15 fine large fish. Tuesday 12th. ~~ A cloudy wet morning, after a terrible night of rain, hail, thunder, and lightning. We thought it best to move our camp, and fixed our canoes, and loaded them with stones to keep them down. We went about the eighth of a mile from this place, and fixed ourselves as well as we could, and re- mained all night. The rain still continued, and the river remained very rough. Wednesday 13th. — This was another dis- agreeable rainy day, and we remained at camp, being unable to get away. At 9 o'clock in the mt 236 Ibrenoou it became a little more calm than usual, and 3 men took a canoe, which we got from the Indians of a kind excellent for riding swells, and set out to go to the point on the sea shore, to ascertain whether there were any white people there, or if they were gone. Thursday 14th. —We expected last night to liave been able to proceed on this morning, but the rain continued, and the river still remained rough : and we are theiefore obliged to lie by. About noon one of the three men who had gone in the canoe, returned, having broke the lock of his gun : but the other two went on by land as the swells ran so high that they could not possibly get the canoe along. About the same time some Indians in a canoe came up the river, and had stolen a gig from the men ; but the one who returned got it from them again when he came up. In the evening Captain Lewis with 4 men started by land, to see if any white peo- ple were to be found. The rest remained in camp ; and the weather continued wet, and the most disagreeable I had ever seen. Friday 1; th. — This morning the weather ap- peared to settle and clear oft; but the river re- mained still rough. So we were obliged to con- tinue here until about 1 o'clock, when the wea- ther became more calm, and we loaded and set out from our disagreeable camp ; went about 3 237 miles, when we came to the mouth of tlie river, where it empties into a handsome bay. Here we halted on a sand- beach, formed a comfort- able camp, and remained in full view of the Ocean, at this time more raging than pacific. One of the two ihen who first went out, came to us here, the other had joined Captain Lewis's party. Last night the Indians had stolen their arms and accoutrements, but restored them on the arrival of Captain Lewis and his men in the morning. Saturday l6th. — This was a clear morning, and the wind pretty high. We could see the waves, like small mountains, rolling out in the ocean, and pretty bad in the bay. -^*- 'i38 CHAPTER XVI. From the 17th of ISovember to the Shi of December, 1805. The object of our Voyage accomplished Inj the Discovert/ of a Passage hy the \oay of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers to the Pacific Ocean. Our men go oit to hunt. Description of the Indians. Memorandum of Distances to the furthest point of Discovery on the Pacific Ocean. The Chin-hook Nation of Indians. Frequent Visits from the Natives. Preparations for our Return. The Clat-sop Nation come ovdr to our Camp. We proceed on our Return. We fix upon Winter Quarters, and repair^ thither. The Natives visit us. We lay the foundation of our Huts. Our Buildings completed. We celebrate Christmas. The Chin-hook Nation bring us Wap-to Roots and dned Salmon. m ^Hii U.ii ^u W E are now at the end of our voyagCj which has been completely accomplished ac- cording to the intention of the expedition, the object of which was to discover a passage by the way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers to the Pacific Ocean ; notwithstanding the difficulties, 239 jirivations and dangers, which we had to en- counter, endure and surmount. This morning five of the men went out to hunt; and about three o'clock all came in but one. They had killed two deer, nine brants, two geese, one crane, and three ducks. The day being clear, we got all our baggage dried, and in good order; and quietly rested until Captain Lewis and his party should return. Sunday 17th.— We had a fine pleasant clear morning, and six hunters went out. About noort they all came in ; but the hunter who re- mained out last night, did not return. He had killed 2 deer, and the other men brought them in with Some brants and a deer they had killed. About the same time Capt. Lewis, and his party returned. They had been round the bay, and seen where white people had been in tlie course of the summer; but they had all sailed away. Captain Lewis and his party killed a deer and some brants. In the evening the remaining hunter came in and had killed another deer. There are but few Indians settled down about the sen shore; their dress is similar to that of some of those above. The women have a kind of fringe petticoats, made of filaments or tassels of the white cedar bark wrought with a string at the upper part, which is tied round the waist, these tassels or fringe are of some use as a co- ff' • 1 3 i 240 vering, while the ladies are standing erect, and the weather cahn ; but in any other position, or when the wind blows, their charms have but a precarious defence. A number of both sexes keep about our camp, some have robes made of muskrat skins sewed together, and I saw some of loon-skins. Their diet is chiefly fish and rooto. MEMORANDUM Of the computed distance in miles to the fur- thest point of discovery on the Pacific Ocean, from the place where the canoes were depo- sited near the head of the Missouri, which from its mouth is 3096 From the place of deposit to head spring - 24 To first fork of tlie Sho-sho-ne river - - 14 To first large fork down the river - - 18 To forks of the road at mouth of Tour creek - 14 To fishing creek, after leaving the river - 23 To Flat-head, or Clarke's river at Fish camp ---------- 41 To the mouth of Traveller's rest creek - 76 To the foot of the great range of moun- tains, east side 12 To ditto ditto ditto west side --130 To the Flat-head village in a plain - - 3 I 841 To the Koos-koos-kc river -->•-- jg To the Canoe camp, at the forks - - . 6 To the Ki-moo-ee-nem - - r - - * 60 To the Great Columbia, by Lewis's river 140 To the mouth of the Sho-sho-ne, or Snake river 162 To the Great Falls of Columbia - - - 6 To the Short Narrows ---..■. 3 To the Long ditto 3 To the mouth of Catarack river, north »«de 23 To the Grand Shoot, or Rapids - - - 42 To the Last Rapids, or Strawberry island 6 To the mouth of Quicksand river, south side 26 To Shallow Bay, at salt water - - - - 136 To Blustry Point, on north side - - - 15 To Point Open-slope, below encampment 3 To Chin-Ook river, at bottom of Haley's Bay 12 To Cape Disappointment, on Western Ocean IS To Capt. Clarke's tour N. W. along coast 10 miles 4133 Mo? lay 18th. — The morning was cloudy. Capt. Clarke and ten men went down to Cape Disappointment, to get a more full view of the ocean ; and three went out to hunt. In the B m 242 1 IH|u ^■IM 1 1 course of the day we got some dried salmon and roots from the natives. In the evening, our hunters came iu with a deer, 2 brants, a squirrel, a hawk, and a flounder, which the tide had thrown on a sand-bar. The Indians still re- mained with us, and Capt. Lewis got a speci- men of their language. Those who live about the sea shore and on Rogue's-harbour creek, a large creek that comes in on the north side of the bay, call themselves the Chin-ook nation. Tuesday igth.— We had a cloudy, rainy morn- ing ; but some of the hunters went out. About one o'clock, the natives, who had been with us some time, went away; and at four, another party of tlie same nation came, and encamped close by us". 11iey consisted of fifteen men and one squaw. The dress of the squaw was the same with those of the others. Several of the men have robes made of brant skins : one of them had a hat made of the bark of white cedar and bear-gras?, very handsome!^ wrought and water-proof.— One of our party purchased it for an old razor. Our hunters killed three deerto-day. Wednesday 20th.— We had a fine clear morn- ing: the Indians remained at our camp, and Captain Lewis gave one of them a medal, as lie ranked as a chief in the nation. One of the men went out to hunt in the morning, and in a short time killed two detr. This day continued 243 clear and pleasant throughout, At four o'clock in the afternoon, Captain Clarke and Iiis party returned to camp, and had killed a deer and some brants. They had been about 10 miles north of the cape, and found the country along the sea- shore level, M'ith spruce-pine timber, and some pranies and ponds of water. They killed a re markably large buzzard, of a species different from any I had seen. It was 9 feet across the wings, and 3 feet 10 inches from the bill to the T\ u '^^^^ ^''''"'^ '"""^ P'^""'^^ ^^°"^s, which iiad been thrown out by the waves, of a quality superior to those on the Missouri; also a num- |ber of shells of different kinds. Thursday 21st. A cloudy morning. About eight o'clock, all the natives left us. The wind blew so violent to-day, and the waves ran so pigh, that we could not set out on our return, pvliich it is our intention to do as soon as the weal hlierand water will permit. The season being so far advanced, we wish to establish our winter huarters as soon as possible. One of the natives bere had a robe of sea-otte^ skins, of the finest hur I ever saw ; which the Commanding Officers wanted very much, and offered two blankets for it, which the owner refused, and said he would not take five. He wanted beads of a blue co- I'our, of which we had none, but some that yxeve ""a belt belonging to our interpreter's squaw; r2 244 « so tlicy gave him the belt for the skins. In the evening, more oF the natives came to our camp, and the night was very wet and disagreeable. Friday 22d. — This was a rainy and stormy morning ; and we were not yet able to set out ; the wind blew very hard from the south, and the river was rougher than it has been since we came here. At noon, the tide was higher than common, and one of our canoes got among some logs, and was split. The rain and wind continued all day violent. Saturday 23d. — The weather was somewhat cloudy, but more calm. Some of the men went out to hunt, and some to mend the canoe which had been split in the storm yesterday. The natives still stay with us, and have a few roots and berries to subsist on at present ; but I can- not conjecture how they live during the winter. They have no mockasons or leggins of any kind; and scarce any other covering than the small robes, which were mentioned before. In the afternoon, ten of the Clat-sop nation, that live on the south side of the river, came over to our camp. These are also naked, except the small robes which hardly cover their shoul- ders. One of these men had the reddest hair I ever saw, and a fair skin, much freckled. In the evening, our hunters came in, and had killed three deer, «ight brants, and twelve ducks. la %45 the evening, the weather cleared, c%%id we had a fine night. Sunday 24th. — The morning was fine, with some white frost. A« this was a fine clear day, it was thought proper to remain here in order to take some observations, which the bad weather had before rendered inipo^^ible. The latitude of this bay was found to be 46* li/ 17" 7. north* ; and at our camp at the head of the bay the river is 3 miles and 660 yards wide. The natives stayed with us all day. At night, the party were consulted by the Commanding Officers, as to the place most pj-oper for winter quarters ; and the most of them were of opinion, thji^t it would be best, in the first place, to gp pyer to the south side of the river, and ascertain whether good hunting ground could be found there. Should that be the case, it would be a more eligible place thap higher up the river, on agcount of getting salt, as that is a very scarce article with us. * Geographers hiive stated, that the Columbia enters the ocean in latitude 46" 18. north. The diiference is therefore only I minute 11 seconds and 7-tenths. The longitude by mistake they have made 236^ 34. west; byit which is the east longitude, leaving 123° 26 for the west longitude. Mr. M'Kenzie arrived at the ocean in latitude 52° 21. 43. or 6' 43 1. north of the mouth of the Columbia ; and in longitude 128" 2. or 4'^ 36. west of tliemouthof the Columbia. This will sheathe general course of the western coast between those places, to which the river aod great chala of the ivocky-Mouptains are nearly parallel. 1 1 4?.a^nE 1 I fi ^ 4ii«'M' . 'X me 'i? Monday 25tli. — The morning was pleasant, though cloudy, with a white frost. We loaded our canoes, and proceeded on: went about 9 miles and made an attempt to cross the river, but failed ; we therefore kept up the north side, Tound Shallow-bay, and encamped about four miles abova it. Tuesday 26th.-~The morning of this day was cloudy and wet; but we set out early, went about a mile, and then crossed the river ; passing in our way several islands. Immediately after we crossed, we came to a small village of the natives, and procured a few roots, called Wapto, from them, and then j)roceeded on, coasting down the bay on the south side. The whole of the day was- wet and unpleasant, and ip the even- ing, we encamped for the night. , Wednesday 27th.— We set out early in a wet morning; coasted round, and turned a sharp cape about a mile; when we found the swells running so high that we had to halt, unload our canoes, and haul them out on the shore. Here we remained the afternoon, and had a very wet night. Thursday ^iSth.— We had a wet windy morn- ing; some of the hunters went out, but had no luck. It raineegan to rain again. The country towards the south is mountainous at some dis- tance off; and there Is some snow on the moun- tains. Near our camp, the country is closely timbered with spruce-pine, the soil rich, but not deep ; and there are numerous springs of run- uing water. Monday 9th. -The morning was cloudy and wet. A sergeant and eight men were sent to brino- m the remainder of tht meat we left yesterday'^ some were employed in making our camp com- fortable, and others in clearing a place for huts and a small fort. In the evening, some of the natives came to our camp, the first we have seen 251 for <^ je days. It continued cloudy and wet ail day. Tuesday 10th.— We had another wet cloudy morning; and all hands were employed at work notwithstanding the rain. About two o'clock Captain Clarke and three of his party returned to camp; the other two remained out to hunt. They found the ocean to be about 7 miles from our camp : for 4 miles, the land high and closely timbered; the remaiHder prairie, cut with some streams of water. They killed an elk, and saw about fifty in one gang. They also saw three lodges of Indians on the sea shore. The natives which were at our camp, went away this morn- ing, after receiving some presents. In the even- ing, we laid the foundation of our huts. Wednesday 1 1th.— This day was also cloudy and wet; but we continued at our hut-building. Thursday 12th.— This morning was cloudy, without rain. In the forenoon, we finished three rooms of our cabins, all but the covering, which I expect will be a difficult part of the business, as we have not yet found any timber which splits well ; two men went out to make some boards, if possible, for our roofs. About three o'clock in the afternoon, a number of the natives from the sea shore came to our camp, and remained all night. Some rain fell in the evening. Friday 13th.— We had a cloudy butiiae mora- 'ii ifej 252 1 1 '1;' ing ; and all hands were engaged at v/ork. The party of Indians who came yesterday went away, and another party came about the middle of the day. Two hunters came in, and had killed eighteen elk, not more than 4 miles distant. The day contraued cloudy, and some rain fell in the evening. Saturday Uth. — The two hunters that had killed the elk, went back with two other men, to take care of the meat. In the course of the day, a good deal of rain fell ; the weather here still continues warm, and there has been no freezing, except a little white frost. In the af- ternoon, the savages all v/ent away. We comr pleted the building of our huts, seven in num- ber, all but the covering, which I now find will not be so difficult as I expected, as we have found a kind of timber in plenty, which splits freely, and makes the finest puncheons I have ever seen. They can be split 10 feet long and , two broad, not more than an inch and an half thick. Sunday 15th. — The morning was cloudy.— Captain Clarke, with sixteen of the party, start- ed to bring in the meat the four men were taking care of; myself and two others were employed in fixing and finisi)iug the quarters of the Com- manding Officers; and two more preparing pun- cheons for covering the Imts. Some light show- S55 ers fell during the day ; and at night, three In- dians came to our camp, and brought us two large salmon. Monday l6th. — This was a wet morning, with high wind. About eight, Captain Clarke and fifteen men came in loaded with meat; they left a canoe with seven men to bring in the re- mainder. They had a very bad night, as the weather was stormy, and a great deal of rain fell. Notwithstanding this, a sergeant and four men, who had got lost, lay out all night without fire. As soon as they arrived, all h:ir>ds were set to carrying up the meat, and putting it in a house we had prepared for the purpose. The whole of the day was stormy and wet. Tuesday 17th.— This was another cloudy day, with some light showers of rain and hail. About eleven o'clock, the seven men came with the canoe and the remainder of the meat. We still continued working at our huts. Wednesday 18th.— Snow fell bst night about an inch deep, and the morning was stormy. la the middle of the day, the weather became clear, and we had a fine aftefnoon. Thursday 19th.— This was a fine clear cool morning, and we expected to have some fait pleasant weather, but at noon it became cloudy again, and began to rain. Friday 20th. — The morning was cloudy and *'Ti1lfHtl"'iiiMl Jlil!'' JS ' *[ft f 254 wet. We collected all the puncheons or slabs ve had made, and some which we got from some Indian huts up the bay, but found we had not enough to cover all our huts. About ten o'clock the weather became clear; but before night it rained as fast as before. From this day to the fi5th, we had occasionally rain and high winds, but the weather still continued warm. On the evening of the 24th, we got all our huts co- vered and daubed. Wednesday 25th-Was another cloudy, wet Wthout salt to season that. The 2Gth, 27th, and i>8th, were cloudy, with ftSo rain. We found our huts smoked; there being no chimneys in them, except in the officers' rooms. The men were therefore employed, ex- cept some hunters who went out, in making chimneys to the huts. In the evening of the 27th, we were informed that a large fish, answer- ing to the description of a whale, was driven upon shore. In the forenoon of the 28th, six men started for the sea sliore to make salt, as we have none in the fort. Two Imnters re- turned, having killed a deer, and three went out to hunt. Sunday 29th.— This was a cloudy morning ; but a fair day succeeded ; and three more hun- ters went out. In the afternoon, several of the Chin-ook nation came to our fort, with Wapto roots and dried salmon to trade. We purchased some from them, and found the supply season- able, as our meat on hand is somewhat spoiled. The men about the fort are engaged in finishing our small fortification. Monday 30th. —Heavy showers of rain fell last night, but the morning was fair, and we had some sunshine, which happens very seldom ; light showers of rain fell during the day. About two o'clock, the three hunters that first went out, came in; and had killed four elk. Seven men went out immediately, and brought them into tlie fort safe, which was a pleasing sight, Mf Ill Q56 the meat wc had on hand being spoiled. This evening we completely finished our fortification. Tuesday 31st. — Another cloudy morning. Some more of the natives came to trade with Wapto roots and salmon : the first party had gone off in the morning. 257 w f- CHAPTER XVII. I. From the* 1st of January, to the 28th of toruary, ISOQ. Commencement of the New Year. Fort Clatsop. We tisit the Salt Works. Indian Camps. Discover the Skeleton of a Whale. The Callemeux nation of In* ■ dians. ; The Clatsop Indians xiuU our Fort. Several of our men sick. The Chin-ook L Mans come and traffic with us. Wednesday Ist January, I8O6.— The year commenced with a wet day ; but the wea- ther still continues warm, and the ticks, flies, and other insects, are in abundance, which ap- pears to us very extraordinary at this season of the year, in a latitude so far north. Two hun- ters M'ent out thi« morning. We gave our forti- fication the name of Fort Clatsop, In the even- ing, our two huiiters, that went out this morn- ing, returned, and had killed two large elk about three miles from the fort. Thursday 2d. — ^This also was a cloudy wet day. Fourteen men went out in the morning, and brought the meat of the elk into the fort. 1 /'7 1 "3. 1 if 1 as% Friday 3d. — The weather is still cloudy and wet. 1 set out this morning with one of the men, to go to the salt-works, to see what pro- gress those engaged in that business had made; and why some of them had not returned, as they had been expected for some time. We proceed- ed along a dividing ridge, expecting to pass the b?ads of some creeks, which intervened. Wo travelled all day, and could see no game ; and the rain still continued. In the evening, we ar- rived at a place where two of the men had killed an elk some time ago. Here we struck up a fire, supped upon the marrow-bones, and re- mained all night. Saturday 4th. — The morning was wet; but we proceeded on, and passed the head of a creek, which we supposed was the last in our rout to the salt-works. Immediately after pass- ing the creek, the man with me killed an e|k ; Avhen we halted and took breakfast off it, and then went on. We got into low ground, passed through a marsh ;ibout half a mile in breadth, where the water was knee-deep ; then got into a beautiful prairie, about 5 miles wide, and which runs along the sea-shore ibout 30 miles from Point Adams on the south side of Hayley'* Bay, in nearly a south-west course, and ends at a high point of a mountain, called Clarke's Ykw, on the sea-ahore. Through this plain or prairie runs another creek, or small river, which we could not pass without some craft ; so we en- camped on the creek, and supped on the elk's tongue, which we had brought with us. Sunday 5th. — This was a very wet day. Wc killed a squirrel and eat it ; made a raft to cross the creek, but when it was tried we found it would cariy only one person at a time ; the man with me was therefore sent over first, who diought he could shove the raft across again ; but when he attempted, it only went half-way ; so that there was one of us on each side, and the raft in the middle. I, however, notwithstand- ing the cold, striptand swam to the raft, brought it over, and then crossed on it in safety ; when we pursued our journey, and in a short time cime to some Indian camps on the sea-shore. The rain and wind continued so violent, that we agreed to stay at these camps all night. Monday 6th. — We had a fair morning, and the weather cleared up, after two months of rain, except four days. We therefore set out from these lodges, passed the mouth of a considerable river, went abont two miles up the shore, and found our salt-makers at work. Two of their detachment had set out for the fort on the 4th, and the man that had come with me and two more went to hunt. $3 360 Tuesday 7tVi. — Another fine day. About noon, Captain C larke, with fourteen men, came to the salt maike/s' carnp, in their way to the place whtre the- large fish had been driven on shore, some distance beyond this camp. The Indians about our fort had procured a consider- able quantity of the meat, which we found very good. The l$th was a hue day, and I remair-^d at camp. The 9th was aho fair and pleasant ; and, about noon, Captain Clarke and his party reiurned here; the distance being about seven- teen miles. They found the skeleton of the whale, which measured 105 feet in length, and the head 12. The natives had taken all the meat ofl" its bones, bv scalding and other means, for the purpose of tiade. The Indians who live up there, are of another nation, and call them- selves the Callemeux nation. They are a fero- cious nation : one of them was going to kill one of our men, for his blanket ; but was prevented by a squaw of the Chinook nation, who lives among them, and who raised an alarm. There is a small river comes into the sea at that place. Captain Clarke and his party remained at the camp all night, during which some rain fell. Friday lOth. — The morning was fine,-, and Captain Clarke and his party started, and I re- mained at this camp, to wait the return of the man who had come with me, and who was out 261 hunting. The 11th was also pleasant, and I proceeded with a party for the tort, wliere about nine o'clock we arrived the next day. Two hunters had gone out from the fort in the morning, and killed seven elk about two miles from it. Monday 13th. — The weather changed, and we had a cloudy wet day ; and all the hands, who could be spared, were engaged in bringing the meat of the elk killed yesterday to camp. Tuesday 14th. — The morning was pleasant; and two men were sen, to the salt-w(jrks to as- sist in making salt. The rest of onr people were employed in drying and taking care of the meat, and in dressing elk skins for mokasons, which is J, laborious business, hut we have no alternative in this part of the country. The 15th and l6th were both '- -t throughout, and the men employed as on the 14th. In the morning of the 17th, there were some clouds; hnt about ten o'clock, they disappeared, and we had a fine day. About the same time eight of the natives of the Clatsop nation came to uur fort, and stayed till the evening. A hunter went out in '^ morning, and killed a deer, Saturday 18th. — Last night was very dark; and early in it, rain came on, and continued all night. This day is also wet. Some of the t": liHi Wl ,» i;^ I S62 [if -i^'- 1 ^ !;(■ ■k natives visited us, and went away in the even- ing. Sunday 19th.-- Four hunters went out this morning, which was fair, with flying clouds; but in the evening it began to rain again. We had another visit from some of the natives. Monday SOth.—It rained hard all day. Some erf the natives again came to se« us, whom we suiFered, contrary to our usual practice, to re- main in the fort all night ; the evening was so wet and stormy. It also rained on the Slst and 22d. Our hunters killed three elk. Gn my way with a party to bring in the meat of these, I saw some amazingly large trees of the fir kind; they are from 12 to 15 feet in diameter. Thursday 23d. — We had a fiM clear cool morning, and two men were sent on to the salt- works. The day continued pleasant until about four o'clock in the afternoon, when the weather became cloudy, and it began to rain. Friday 24th. - At day light, some sno^^ fell, and there were several snow showers during the day. In the afternoon, two of our hunters and some of the natives came to the fort in an In- dian canoe, with the meat of two deer and an elk they had killed. The Indians were bare- footed, notwithstanding the snow on the ground ; and the evening was so bad we permitted them to stay in the fort all night. S^i Saturday S5th. — The morning was cloudy, and some showers of snow fell in the course of the day, and in the night it fell to tlie depth of eight inehesi On tlje ^Gth, there were souie light thowers during the day ; but in the even- ing, the weather cleared up, and it began to freeze hard. This is the first freezing weather of any consequence we have had during the winter. Monday $7th.— This was a clear cold frosty morning, and the snow about nine inches deep. Where the sun shone on it during the day, a con- siderable quantity of it melted ; but these places "Were few, as the whole face of the country near this is closely covered with fir timber. In the afternoon, a hunter came in, and informed us that the party he had been with had killed ten elk. Tuesday 28th.— A clear cold morning, and the weather continued cold all day. About half of our men were employed in bringing home meat; and it was found a very cold uncom- fortable business. The two men who lately went to the salt-works, returned with a small supply. Wednesday 29th. — We had a cold clear morn- ing, and the day continued clear throughout On the 30th, the weather was cloudy, and not so cold as the day before; and some snow fell. #' 2^4 ; mi' ^ Friday 31st. — This was a clear cold morning. Seven of us went up the small river in a canoe to hunt ; but after we had gone a mile, we were stopped by the ice, and had to return to the fort. One of the men at the salt-works had been out hunting, and killed an elk, and called at the fort for men to assist him in taking the meat to their camp. Saturday 1st February, 1806.— V\^c had a fine clear cold morning. A number of the men went out to bring meat to the fort, and to take some to the salt-works. Sunday 2d. — The morning was pleasant and the weather more moderate. About the middle of the day, it began to thaw, and in the evening to rain. Some of our men were engaged to-day bringing in more meat. Monday 3d.~-Some hght showers of rain fell in the course of last night ; and this day is still somewhat wet and cloudy. One of our hunters came in, who had killed seven elk, and returned with a party and a canoe to bring in the meat. We are fortunate in getting as much meat as we cAn eat ; but we have no other kind of pro- visions. Tuesday 4th. — ^This was a fine clear morning. Last night, the men who had gone to carry the meat to the salt-works returned, and brought us a bushel of salt. This day continued through- o out '^lear and pleasant ; and the .5th was a clear cool day. One of our hunters came in, who had killed six elk. Thursday 6th — We had a cool fair morning. Ten of us started with a canoe to bring in the meat of the elk killed yesterday; and had to encamp out all night, but, with the assistance of the elk skins and our blankets, we lodged pretty comfortably, though the snow was four or five inches deep. Friday 7th. — The morning was fair, and all hands engaged in bringing in the meat ; we got some to the fort, but myself and part of the men had again to encamp out. It raided hard, and we had a disagreeable night. Saturday 8th. — About noon, there were showers of rain and hail. Some of the hunters killed four more elk, and we got all the meat safe to camp in the evening. Sunday 9th. — We had a tine morning, but in the course of the day, we had sometimes sun- shine, and sometimes showers of rain. One of our hunters caught a heave,. Monday 10th. — A light snow fell last night, and the morning was pleasant. In the after- noon, two men came from the salt-works, with information that two others were sick, and a third had cut his knee so badly he could scarcely walk. ti £66 Tuesday 1 1th.— This was a fine morning. A sergeant and six men were scut to bring the sick men to the fort. At the same time, myself and two men went out to hunt, and remained out to the 17th, during which time, there was a great deal of heavy raiu,and the weather change- able and disagreeable. While we were out, we killed eight elk. During one of the most dis- agreeable nights, myself and another lay out in our shirts and overalls, with only one elk-skiu to defend us from a violent night's rain. We had started a gang of elk, and, in order to be light in the pursuit, left our clothes where the first was killed, and could not get back before davk. Our shirts and overalls being all of leather riade it the more disagreeable. Monday 17th. — The day was stormy; we set out for the fort, and arrived there in the after- noon. We found the sick men ct the fort, and still very bad. One of the men brought word from the salt-works, that they had made about four bushels of salt ; and the commanding offi- cers thought that would be sufficient to serve t\\c party, until we should arrive at the Mi'^souri, where there is some deposited. Tuesday 18th, — The morning of this day was cloudy. A sergeant and six men set out to go to the salt-works, to bring the salt arid kettles to the fort. At the same time, I started with 2^7 ten more to bring in meat ; but the weather was so stormy, we could not get round the baj, and we all returned to the fort. Wednesday 19th. — We were employed in bringing in meat, and the sergeant and seven men again set out for the salt-works, by land, to bring tlie salt and kettles to the fort. The day was very wet and stormy. Thursday 20th. —This was a cloudy morning. A number of the Chinook Indians came to the fort with hats to trade. They arc made of the cedar bark and silk grass, look handsome, and keep out the rain. But little rain fell to-day, and in the evening, we turned out the natives as usual, and they all went home. Friday 21st. —About one oclock, our salt- makers came home, with tl>e salt and baggage. They had a very unpleasant day, as it rained hard during the whole of it. Saturday 2S3d.— This was a fine clear day, and some ofthe natives again visited us, and brouo-ht some hats, which we purchased at a moderate price. The 23d was also clear and pleasant; but the morning of the 24th was cloudy, and at ten o'clock it began to rain hard. About noon, a number of the natives came to the fort to trade. The rain continued, with high stormy wind; and we suffered the Indians to remain in the fort all night. V. 268 Tuesday 25th. —The rain continued, and the weather was stormy. About ten o'clock, the natives went away, though it continued to rain- very fast. They brought us yesterday a number of small fish, of a very excellent kind, resembling a herring, and about half the size. Wednesday 26th.— We had a fair morning; some of the hunters went out, as our store of provisions was getting small, and three men went in search of these small fish, which we had found very good eating. The 27th was a cloudy wet day. Three of our hunters came in, and had killed an elk. Friday 28th. — This was a foggy morning, and the forenoon cloudy. A sergeant and six men went out to bring in the meat, and re- turned about noon. The greater part of this day was fair and pleasant ; and in the evening, three hunters came in, and had killed five elk. £69 jii Hi i I CHAPTER XVIII. From the 1st of March, tc the 8th of ipril, ISOG. The Natives continue to visit us. Our stock of Tobacc4 runs short. JVe use Crab-tree Bark as a substitute. Description of the Cat-sopyCath'la'maSfCal-a'mex^ and Chiltx Nations of Indians. We pack up our Loading^ and prepare for our Departure. Leave Fott Clatsop. Proceed round Point William. Encamp at an old In- dian Village. Proceed on our Voyage. . Pass srjeral Indian Lodges. Reach Deer Island. Pass some Villages of the Wapio nation. Quick-sand Pive^. Reach the Head of the Columbia Valleij. Pass the Columbia Plains. Saturday Ist March, ISOe.— We had* cloudy wet morning. I set out with eight men and four hunters to bring the meat of the elk that had been killed, which was at a greater distance from the fort than any we had yet brought in. There iis a large river that flows into the south- east part of Hayle » ''l^j ; upon which, about 20 miles from its mouui, our hunters discovered 1U !i m 270 falls, which had about 60 feet of a perpcvuii- cular pitch. Sunday 2d. — This day was also wet. The fishing party returned at night, and brought with them some thousands of the same kind of small fish we got from the natives a few days ago, and also some sturgeojra. . The Indian name of the river we were up yes- terday is Kil-hou-a-nak-kle, and that of the small river which passes the fort, Ne-tul. Monday Sd.r^rlt rained all this d^y and the foUov/irg. Our sick men are getting better, but slowly, as they have little or no suitable nourishment. Wednesday 5th. — About twelve o'clock last night, the rain ceased, and we had a fine morn- ing. A number of the natives visited us, and at night our hunters returned, but had killed nothing. Thursday 6th. — Our stock of provisions being nearly exhausted, six men were sent out in dif- ferent directions to hunt, and three more' were sent to endeavour to procure some fish, as the na- tives take a great number of the small fish about SO miles distant from the fort by water. Some men were also employed in repairing the canoes, that we may be able to set out on our return immediately, should our hunters be unsuccess- ful. The elk, almost the only game in this part 271 of the rountry, are chiefly gone to the moiin- tP/os. This day continued fair throughout. f riday 7th.— This was a wet morning, and some showers fell occasionally during the day. Among our other difficulties, we now experience the want of tobacco; and out of thirty- three persons composing our party, there are but seven who do not make use of it; we use crab-tree bark as a suBstitute. In the evening, one of our hunters came in, and had killed an elk a considerable distance off. Saturday 8th.— Some snow fell last night, and the morning was stormy and disagreeable! About nine o'clock, another of our hunters came in, who had killed two elk; and after some time, the remaining three, having killed but one deer, and lost their canoe. Sunday 9th.— This morniug ten men went out to hunt. There were some light shoTvcrs of snow this forenoon, but during the greater part of it, the sun shone clear and warm. In the afternoon, some of the natives caine to visit us, and brought some of the small fish, which they call Ulken. Two hunters came in in the evening, but had not killed any thing. The men sent to 6sh are still absent, owing perhaps to the high swells in the bay. The Indians re- tnained in the fort all night Qn the 10th, we had changeable weather. * IR'!-' i'i 272 \/ith snow showers. At noon, two mo* e hun- ters went out. ^ Tuesday 11th. — The weather was nearly the same as yesterday. Threemenwent across the bay in a canoe to hunt. Two other hunters came in, but had killed nothing. At noon, our fish- ermen returned, with some ulken and sturgeon. The morning of the 12th was pleasant; but towards the evening, the day became cloudy. Another hunter went out. Thursday 13th. — The morning was fine, and two more hunters went out early. About ten, the hunters who had gone across the bay re- turned, and had killed two elk and two deer. I this day took an account of the number of pairs of mockasons each man in the party had, and found the whole to be 338 pair. This stock was not provided without great labour, as the most of them are made of the skins of elk. Each man has also a sufficient quantity of patch-lea- ther. Some of the men went out to look for the- lost canoe, and killed two elk. Friday 14th.— We had a fine morning, and four hunters set out early. I went with a party and brought in the meat of the two elk which were killed last evening. Two hunters, who had gone out yesterday morning, returned very much fatigued, and had killed nothing but a goose and a raven, which they ate last night. 273 While out to-flay, I saw a number of musqui- toes flying about. I also saw a great quantity of sheep-sorrel growing in the woods, of a very large size. Saturday 1.5tb.— There was a fine pleasant morning. About noon, our hunters came in, and had lulled four elk. A number of the na- tives came to the fort to-dav. Sunday l^th. — Last night it became cloudy, and began to rain ; and the rain has continued all day. The Indians stayed about the fort the whole of tliis'day. Yesterday, while I was ab- sent, getting our meat home, one of the hunters killed two vultures, the largest fowls I had ever seen. I never saw any such as these, except on the Columbia river, and the sea-coast. On the 17th, it rained occasionally during the whole of the day. We got a canoe from the natives, for which we gave an officer's uni- form coat. Tuesday 1 8th. — The weather was muchdike that of yesterday, and some hail fell in the course of the day. Some of the men are re- pairing the small canoes, and making prepara- tions to return up the river, as soon as the wea- ther will permit. One of the hunters killed an elk. The morning of the 19th was storm;^, some T .11 ii I' i hard showers of hail fell, and it continued cloudy through the day. Thursday 20th.— The whole of this day was wet and disagreeable. We intended to have set out to-day on our return, but the weather was too bad. I made a calculation of the number of elk arid deer killed by the party froiii the Ist of December 1805, to the 20th of March 1806, which gave 131 elk, and flO deer. There were a few smaller quadrupeds killed, such as otter and beaver, and one racoon. The meat of some of the elk was not brought to the fort. Friday 5 Ist— We had a cloudy wet morning. Two of tlie hunters went out this morning ; and about ten o'clock we were visited by some of the Clatsop Indians. These, and the Chin-ook, Cath-la-mas, Cal-a-mcx, and Ghiltz nations, who inhabit the sea coast, all dress in the same manner. The men are wholly naked) except a small robe; the women have only the addition of the short petticoat. Their laijguage also is nearly tlic same ; and tliey all observe the same ceremony of depositing with the remains of the dead, all their property, or placing it at ti eir graves. I believe I saw as many as an hundred banoe* at ooc biirying-place of the Chin-ooks, on the north side of the Columbia, at its en- trance into Hailcy's Bay j and there are a great 275 "7 " '•■ "y-8-pi^ce of every village. These I.U, ...,, on the eoa. imv. ,o horse,, ^^d very httle Property of any kind, e-.»pt their canoes. 1 ,ie women are mii .,) ,o n.ry. a„d, like those on tlv M>. oun, ,« sold to' pros.,tut,o« at an eas.- rate. An old Chin-ook squa. frequentlvvisi • our quarters, with nine g.rls, wluch she kept as prostitutes. To the honour of the Flatheads, who live on the w«! .«le of the Rocky Mountains, an<. extead sl"e -stance down the Columbia, w ,ust mention ir ." "" ".'^'P""" ■• « they do not exhibit those loose feebng. of carnal desire, nor appear a.l< hcted to the common custom, of prostitutLn- and they are the only nation on the whoJe mute where any thing like chastity is regarded n the evening our two hunters returned, bu; liad killed noihing. Saturday 82d.-VVe had a cloudy wet morn- "ig. Three hunters were sent on a-head to re- 1 1'"./'.,'°'"' ^"""^ ''""""S ground until we ould all come up, and six others to hunt near he fort. In the evening, ail these came.in, ex- cept one,, without any success >: -: Sua^y 23d.^There «^as a cloudy wet „,ora. H- Thehuntef who remained out last night h".e .n early, and had killed an elk. We S »pbyed this forenoon in dividing a^lpacki^' hpour load»g, and distributing it am«,gthe I T 2 jSi-iTi; ill I I > 0, ■4 <*r, # %. ^Oi '^. .W^. 0- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. .// / i/x fe 1.0 l.i V 1^ 12.2 L25 III 1.4 2.0 18 1.6 rnuiugiapiiiL. Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 iV V ■ «* Is. \\ *^0 ' ^fQS* 276 canoe3, w^iich were five in number, three large audtwojimall. At noon, we put it on board ; and at one o'clock, left fort Clatsop. The after- noon \v>as fair : we proceeded round Point Wil- liam, went about 19 miles, and encamped at the mouth, of a creek, where we found the three hunter.3 that had been sent on a-head, and who had killed two ^Ik, about a mile and an half dis- tant. :, Monday 2tth.— After a bad night*s rest, on account of the rain, fifteen men went out and brought the meat of the two elk to our camp. The morning was fair, and after breakfast they all embarked, except the men belonging to my cano^, which the tide had left aground. The hunters went on in the small canoe a-head, and I had to wait for the rising of the tide. In about two hours I was able to follow the other canoes. and proceeded on about 12 miles, to a village of the Cath-ld-mas, where the rest of the party had halted. When I arrived, we all proceeded on again, and in the evening encamped at an oU village, which had been vacated. Si. \ Tuesday 35th.— We set out after breakfast, and had afair morning ; proceeded on to twelve o'clock, when we again halted, the wind and tide bemg both against us. When the tide be- gan to rise^ we went on again j saw some of the natives in canoes descending the rivcri and in 27r the afternoon passed an Indian lodge, where one of the men purchased an otter skin. At this time, the wind rose and blew very hard, accom- panied with rain ; notwithstanding, we proceed- ed on till night, when we came to the mouth of a small creek, which formed a good harbour for our canoes. Here we found several of the na- tives encamped, and catching sturgeon, of which they had taken fourteen large ones. ' .,;] Wednesday 26ih.~Aflera disagreeable night's rain and wind, we continued our voyao-e. As •.ve passed along, I saw a great many flowers, full blown, of different colours; and grass and other herbage growing fast : I saw nettles two feet high, of this spring's growth. Thursday 87th. —There was a cloudy wet morning. Weembarked early, .-^nd went abodt six miles, when we came to a small Indian vil- lage, where the natives received us very kindly. They belong to the Chin-ook nation, and differ something in their language from the Chin-ooks. We got some Wapto roots and fish from them,and then proceeded on, though it rained.very hard. Two small canoes went on a- head to Deer Is- land, in order to kill some game by the time we should come up. We passed several Indian lodges, where the natives were fishing foi* stur- geon, and got a large one out (^ a small canoe ; a num'er of which followed usp ^v-ith two i78 Ifndhins in each of them* At night, we en- camped where we had plenty of good wood, oak and ash. Friday 38th. — ^Thc morning was cloudy. "We set out early, and at ten o'clock came to Deer Island ; where those who had gone a-head in tlie small canoes had encamped, and all gone out to hunt, except one. In a short tim«, a hunter returned with a large deer, and we con- cluded to stay here all day, and repair two of our canoes, that leaked. It rained at intervals during the day. Our hunters came in, and had killed seven deer in all. . Some of the men went to bring in the meat, and others went out and killed some geese and ducks. At the last vil- lage sift passed, I took notice of a difference in the dress of the females, from that of those be- low, about the coast and Hailcy's Bay. Instead of the short petticoat, they have a piece of tliin ^res^ed skin tied tight -ound their loinis,' Nvitbia narrov Blip coming up between their.. ihiglM. On this island, there are a greater numbei of snakes than I had ever seen in any otiier.place ; t^ey appeared almost as numerous as the blades of grass; and are a species of garter snake. Whtri our men went for the deer, tl>ey found that the fowls had devoured four of the carcases entirely, except the bones. So they brought in the other two; and we finished our canoes r S79 and put them in the water. The Columbia river is now very higii, which makes it more difi- ficult to ascend. Saturday 8.9th. — The morning was pleasant, with some white frost, and we proceeded on early; passed some old Indian lodges, and in the afternoon came to a large village, where we were received with great kindness, and got fish and wapto roots to eat. Here wc bought somedog* and waptos, and then went on again, about a mile, and encanrped. One of the sick men is quite recovered, and the other two ar^e getting better. > .utqy Sunday 3Qth. — Tlie mornin^ wai fair, with some dew. We set out early, accompanied by severfil of the natives in canoes. The river is very high, overflo' 'ing all its banks. We passed some villages of the natives on Wapto Islaiiid, which is about 30 miles long, and 1 broad, but did not halt at any of them. The nati ves of this country ought to have the credit of making the finest canoes, perhaps in the world, both as to service and beauty ; and are no less expert in working them when made. * We had a beauti- ful day throughout, and in the evening eecaipp- , '^ . Il l ■« I ' 1 1 ■ ' ■ i" "" ■ . ' . ' ■ i • "il baji iroagwed that the Canadians wIjo ;accqmpanied me, were the most expert canoe-men in tTie world, ^ui they ' are vety nf erior to these people (the natives near the coast), as they them- ttJves aur came «j>rancUhe men when oiKt for pi t<^h, killed three 4e&r, We. proceeded on, and tibc water w«s so fftjMd, thatve.had to tow the canoes up by the »»« almost-all the Jway todie landingia*t)bie lower cndof th©^>orti|?e, a distaaccof about six miles. Si7 In passing a bac! place, the tow-line of the wnaU canoe, which the hunters had on a-head, broke ; but fortunately there was nothing in her, as the three hunters wereonshore.draggingher up, and had taken out all the loading. As she passed by uSyCaptain Lewis got some of the natives to bring her to shore. In the evening, we got to the * end of the portage, which is about 2 miles. We took our baggage to the top of the hill, and re- mained with it all night; during which, spme sliowersof rain fdi. Friday Uth. — We had a cloudy ni^rping,, All our nricn who were able, set out to take the canoes through the grand shoot. About one o'clock, we got two over, a,nd then proceeded to take two more, which we succeeded in, after, great toil and danger ; and three hunters went ona-head in the least. Saturday ifitlj. — This morning was wet. Wci ^H set out tft take the other ciuoc over; but- ^ter we had fastened the rope to her, shp s^uug •ut iatQ the current, which, was so strong* that it jMalled tiie rope out of the men's bands, a^d Wicet down tbe riy^i-. We the» went tp carry, ♦M? l>%85g^e across the portage, y^h^ck W94.^. ver_<4ll.4>KflV U. isim4i s^l.intervAU aU 4a^; awl up()U tli« M*r^ high. mpitn^^n* on t^ipaoutji sid^ ottt|h)e wygr, snpw £b^<^ii4 Vood for a considerable distanee. Saturday 26th. —Last night, Captain Lewis and Captain Claike got each a hor«e, and we set out early, had a fine morning, and proceeded on very well, most of the men having their knapsacks carried on the horses. At noon, wc halted, and took a little of our dried meat, which is the only food we have. At two o'clock, we continued our journey, and the officers were obliged to go on foot again, to let some of the men ride, whose feet were very sore. The coun- try is level, and has a most beautiful appear- ance. On these plains, there is a species of clover, as large as any I have seen, and has a large red handsome blossom. The leaves arc not quite so large ^s those of the red clover cultivated in the Atlantic States, but has seven and eight leaves on a branch. We were over- jtaken, and passed by a great number of the na- tives, with large droves of horses, that look well, and are in good order. We travelled about g5 miles, and encamped at a sniall grove of ;Will0WS. J .j„.^ ( Sunday 27th. — The morning was cloudy with some light showers of rain ; and about 9 o'clock we proceeded on through the plains, accom- panied by a great many of the natives. Some light showers of rain fell at intervals during the day ; and after halting about two hours we continued our journey to sunset, when we came to a large village of mat-lodges, belonging to a band pf the Wal-la-vyaUas, who have encamped 297 kcre on the north side of the river. Here we re- mained all night, a«d the natives Mere good enough to supply us with some faggots of brush, they had gathered in tlie plains from the sage bushes, which grow in great abundance on some part of these plains and are verv laro-e Monday 28th.-— The morning was pleasant, and we spent it with the Indians, and got dogs,' fish, shap-a-leel and roots from them. At 10 o'clock we began to take our liorses over the river at this place, as we can lessen our journey considerably by crossing : we borrowed canoes from the natives,' and swam tlie horses alongside, and at 2 o'clock in the afternoon had them all landed safe, after a good deal of trouble. From this place we can discover a range of mountains, covered with snow, in a south-east direction and about fifty miles distant. In the evening the weather was cloudy, and it thun- dered and threatened rain, a few drops of which fell. We remained here all night, and about dark, above a hundred of the natives came down from the forks to see us. They joined with those at this place and performed a great dance. We were a very interesting sight to the surrounding crowd, as nine-tenths of them had never before seen a white man. Tuesday 29th.— The natives remained about our camp all night; and we bought some dogs m ii 398 anci a horse from them. The day was fair, and we got all our baggage transported to the south side of the river. Here are a great many of the natives encamped on a large creek, wliich comes in from the south, and those on the north side are moving over as fast as tiiey can. We en- camped on the creek, and got three horses, some dogs, shap-a-lcel, some roots calted com- mas, and other small roots, which were good to cat, and nourishing. Wednesday 30th. — This was a cloudy morn- ing, and we stayed here till about H o'clock to collect our horses, got two more ; and have now altogether twenty-three horses. We then set out from Wal-la-wal-la river and nation; proceeded on about fourteen miles through an extensive plain, when we struck a branch of the Wal-la-waHa river, and halted for the n%ht. We saw no animals or birds of any kind, except two pheasants, one of which Capt. Clarke killed. The whole of this plain is of a sandy surface and affords but thin grass, with some branches of shrubs which resemble sage or hyssop. On the south side of this branch the soil is of eiarth and rich, covered with grass, and very hand- some. We are still accompanied by several of the natives. Hiursday 1st May, ISOC—Some rain fell during the night, and the morning continues 299 *nk cloudy. We set out early and travelled up the branch, which is a fine stream about twenty yards wide, with some cotton- woo J, birch, and willows on its banks. One of our hunters, who went forward very early this morning, returned at noon with a beaver be had killed ; other game is scarce. We then halted to dine, where the road forks, one going up the branch an east course, and the other north towards the large river. Here our Indians differed in opinion with respect to the Ix^st road to be taken. The man with the family and gang of horaes said he would go across to the Great River to-morrow; but we followed the opinion of the young man our guide, and proceeded on up the creek. We travelled about twenty-five miles, and encamped without any of the natives, except our guide, who generally keeps with the hunters, one of whon? killed a deer this evening. TImj higher we go up the creek, the cotton- wood is more large and plenty ; and the plains beau- tiful. Friday 2d. — A fine morning. Last night about 9 o'clock, three of the Wal-la-wal-las came up with us, and brought a steel tiap that had been left at our camp on the north side of the Columbia, opposite the mouth of Wal-la-waMa rirer; perhaps one of the greatest instances of honesty ever known among Indians. Some ill -.If i ' 300 liunters M'cnt on ahead, and having collected our horses, we found one missing ; some of the men went to look for him, and brought him back. Wc then continued our journey up this branch ; and saw to our right a range of high hills covered with timber and snow, n( t more than ten miles distant. We went fifteen miles and encamped on the north fork, the creek having forked about two miles below our en- campment. The south fork is the largest, and from its course is supposed to issue from those snow-topped hills on our right. In the evening our hunters joined us, and had killed only one beaver and an otter. The three Indians re- mained with us all day; and at night we set three steel traps, there being a great many beaver signs on this branch. Saturday 3d. — We had a wet uncomfortable morning, and when the horses were collected, one was found missing, and one of our hunters went back after him, while the rest of us conti- nued our journey. This morning our guide and the three other Indians went on ahead. We continued our rout about 1«> '* ilts, when w^ struck a creek, having left the othei entirely to our right ; and halted. Our hunter came \\p with the horse. The wind Mas very high this forenoon, and rather cold for the season ; with 5 v'jme rain. We continued about two hours and p 301 eat the last of our dried meat; and arc altogether without otiier provisions, as our stock of dogs is exhausted, and we can kill no game in these plains. In the evening we met a chief and nine of his men, who appeared glad to see us. We encamped on a small hranch or spring, as it was too far to go over the hills. The Indians say we can get over to-morrow by noon. The wind continued to blow hard and some sno\f showers fell in the afternoon. Sunday 4th.— We had a severe frost last night; and the morning was cold and clear. We were early on our march over a hands, me plain; and came to another creek, which we kept down until we came to Lewis's river, some distance below the forks of Koos-koos-ke; where we halted at an Indian lodge, and could get nothing to eat, except some bread made of a kind of roots I was unacquainted witli. We had, however, a dog, which we bought from the Indians, who met us last night ; but this was a •scanty allowance for thirty odd hungry men. We remained here about two hours, got a dog, and proceeded up the south side of Lewis's river, about three miles, when we met with one of our old chiefs, who had come down with us last fall ; and who advised us to cross the river, as the best road is on the north side. We therefore were occupied in crossing, during the remainder uh/h 302 of the day, as wc could raisft but four small canoes from the natives at this place. We, however, by dark got all safe over, and encamped on the north side, accompanied by a great many of the natives, who appear a friendly and well dis- posed people. 305 CHAPTER XX. From the 5th to the 22d of May, 1806. The Voyage continued. We pass the Forks. Halt at some Indian Lodges. The Natives visit our Camp, We proceed on our Journey, Encamp on the north side of the Koos-koes-ke River. Their method of Cooking. Tlie Cho-co-nish Nation. Jrms of the Nathes. Their skill in Horsemanship. i',k Monday 5th.— We had a fine morning, and proceeded on early, accompanied by our old chief and a number of the natives. About 10 o'clock we passed the forks, and kept along the north side of Koos-koos-ke ; at noon we halted at three lodges of Indians, where we got three dogs and some roots. We also got one of our horses, which we had left here last fall in the care of the old chief who is now with us; he says that the Snake guide, who deserted us last fell, stole and took two of our horses with him. Wc remained her« about an hour, and then con* tiAuBd our journey ; came to a large lodge of If 504 the natives, at the mouth of a creek, where we encamped. This lodge is built much after the form of the Virginia fodder-houses ; is about fifty yards long, and contains twenty families. We here could get no provisions but shap-a-leel and roots. Tuesday 6th. — There was a cloudy wet morning; and we stayed in our camp. Capt. Lewis, and Capt. Clarke acted as physicians to the sick of the village or lodge, for which they gave us a small horse, that we killed and eat, as we had no other meat of any kind. We continued here until about 3 o'clock, when we started, and went on about nine miles, and en- camped close to a lodge of the natives. Wednesday 7th. — This was a fine morning, and we continued here till after breakfast, when we proceeded on about four miles to another Indian lodge, at the mouth of a small creek, where we had to cross the river again, in order to get to a better road. At this lodge the na- tives found two cannisters of ammunition, which we had buried last fall on our way down, and which they took care of and returned to us safe. All the Indians from the Rocky moun- tains to the falls of Columbia, are an honest, ingenuous, and well disposed people; but from the falls to the sea-coast, and along it, they are a rascally, thieving set. We were here de- 305 tained about three hours in crossing, as we had but one canoe to transport ourselves and bag- gage. We then proceeded over a large hill, and struck a small creek, about five miles be- low the place, where we made our canoes in October last. Here we encamped for the night, accompanied by two Indians, one of whom can speak the Sho-sho-nc, or Snake language. We shall therefore be able to hold some conversation with the natives in this part of the country, as our squaw is of the Snake nation. Thursday 8th. — The morning of this day was pleasant; and we remained here some time, to endeavour to kill some deer ; and the hunters were sent out. — Here some of the na- tives came to our camp, and informed us, that we could not cross the mountains for a moon and a half; as the snow was too deep, and no grass for our horses to subsist on. We have the mountains in view from this place, all covered white with snow. At noon our huntere came in, and had killed four deer and some phea- sants. About 3 o'clock we continued our jour- ney ; passed over a very high hill, and encamp- ed on a small run ; where we met our other old chief, who had gone down the river with us last fall. He told us that his men had found our saddles, where we had hid them, and that he had them safe. He also gave us an account 3,06 of tlilfty-six of pviv h9r»e», and where they were. Friday 9th. — There was u cloudy morning ; some ]^4nters went out, and we proceeded on for abou^ Sf]^ miles, v^ien we came to the old chiefs ^odge, where his family is encamped to gather iqots, We are now got into a part of t\}^ country where tiinber is plenty, chiefly pitch pine. Between tlie great falls of the Columbia and this place, we saw mpre horses, than I ever hffpre saw in the same space of country. They ar^ not o( the largest size of horses, but very gopd and active. A\ noon two of the Indians -^^nt to Ipok for our horses, and the old chief 'Wf^^iioneof ourmei^ who knew where some pow- ^e^ aP4 b^U \Y¥ buried, went to bring pur pacl^- *^d^le^. In the evening, they all returned with 21 hprscs, and about as many pack-saddles. Our bors?s §re generally in gopd order. Our hunters ^.^SP returned, but ha^l killed nothing. S^,turd?y lOth.—At dark last night the weather bepai^i^ cloudy and it rained about an hour, when \h^ rain turned to snow, and it continued snow- ing all night. In the morning the weather ^ca;nc clear. Where we are lying in the plains, the ^novf is about five inches deep ; and amidst ^^,oyf and frost, we have nothing whatever to eat. Withoi^^ bwftkfast we started to go to a village 8.07 of the natives, who live on a branch of the river, about a south course from thii place. We travelled through the snow about 12 miles, and then went down a long steep descent to the branch where the village is situated. When we were about half way down the hill, there was not a particle of snow nor the least appearance of it. It was about 3 o'clock when we arrived at the village, and the commanding officers held a conversation with the natives, who informed them that they had not more provisions and roots, than they wanted for themselves. They, however, divided their stock with us; and told us what they had given was all they could spare; but drove up some horses and told us to shoot one, which we did. They then offered another, but that was reserved for another time, and we dressed the one we had killed ; and in our situa- tion find it very good eating. We remained here all night. One of the hunters who had gone on before the party, did not join us yet. Sunday Uth. — This was a fine clear morning; and we lay here all day. The natives treat us very well; the officers practise as physicians among their sick, and they gave them a very handsome mare and colt. About 12 o'clock our hunter came in and brought two deer with him. We now find a great many more men among the Indians than when we went down X 2 f. L. 90S last fall ; and several chiefs, which had then been out at war. In the evening the natives brought in six more of our horses. Monday Hth. — We had another fine morning and remained here also to-day. The natives in the course of the day gave us four horses, one of wliich we killed to eat. We also got bread made of roots, M'hich the natives call Co-was and sweet roots which they call Com- mas. In the afternoon they brought three more of our ohl stock of horses*. • The information yet acquired, furnishing but few certain data, on which a correct general view of the country west of the Rocky Mountains could be founded, especially on the south side of the Ivoos-koofv-kc, Lewis's river, and the Columbia after its confluence with that river, it woukl only be attenipting imposture to pretend to be able to give it. A few observations, however, may be of some use to such readers, as iravc paid but little attention to the Geo- grupl»y of our country, and prompt to further incpiiry. B'twcentlie Rocky Mountains, whicii ninninganorth-westcourse, we said to enter the North Sea in latitude 70' north, and longitude l.?5^ west from London, or tJ'J'' west from Philadelphia (about 11* west ot the mouth of the (.oiumlna), and another range of high moun- tains, r nning nearly in tiie ianie direction along the coast of the Pacific, there is a large tract of open country extending along the above river; and 'owards the north, in breadth from east to west 350 or 4''0 milt's; but wiiicli, by Mr. M'Kenzie's account, appears to bf contractt d in the latitude of his route near the 53d degree to the breadth of about 200 miles, where the country is rough and covered with timber. Mr. M'Kenzi^; n^presents some part of these moun- i;iins to be of an amazing height, with iheir snow-clad summits lost in the clov.Us. JJescrsbiug the situation of liis party " sitting round a Htazirg iirc"t!ic fiiit eveiiinji of tht^ ilay, ( n which they had begun t» S09 Tuesday 13th. — We had a fine morning w ith whiteffost. Having collected ourhorses, we found ascend these mountains on their return, and which was that of the 56th of July ; he observes, 'W.-n at thii place, whicli is only, as it were, the first stip towards Kainin;T the summit of the mountains, the climate was very Sensibly changed. '1 ho air that fanned the village which we left at noon, was mild and cheering; the graws was verdant, and the w,l 1 fruits ripe around it. But hen. the snow wai ,.ot yet dissolved, the ground was still bound by the frost, the herbage had •carce begun to spring, and, the crowberry bushes were just begin- ning to blossom." This ra,ige of lofty mountains prevents the racoutche or Columbia river froui linding a direct course to U»e ocean, andforces it in a direction somewhat east of south, to traverse by various windings that large tract of country, until it arrives near the 46th degree of latitude, when it turns to the west, and at length finds Its way to the ocean through the Columbia valley. From the information gained by the late expedition, by M'Kcnzie's voyage, the discoveries of Captain Cook and others, it appears there are great quantities of timber, chiefly of the pine or fir kind, between the shore of the Pacific and the chain of mountains which run near 'V x^X'"^^"'" '''"' '"^ ^'''^ ^"""^y Mountains, especially south of M Kenzie s route, a great part is open prairie, or plains, almost totally without timber. Mr. M'Kenzie says of the information of the chief, who delineat.;d for him a .ketch of the river and coua- try on a piece of bark, "As far as his knowledge of the river extended, the country on either side was level, in uKmy places Tow kl'nd'^' "''' '"'^ "'"'""'""^ '" '''' '''"■' '"^ """^" °*=^ ^'»^» f^l- According to the verbal relation of Mr. G.ss, the laiul on the Columbia IS generally of a better quality tiian on the Missouri • and where a greater number of roots grow, such as the natives subsist on. The Missouri in its general course is deeper, more crooked . .^"d rapid than the Columbia; but the L.tt.r has more rapids or cataracts ; and its water is clear. liU'ti SIO wc had 60, and all pretty good except 4, which were studs, and had sore backs. At noon we proceeded down the branch, which has a good deal of cotton wood, mm'IIow, and cherry-tree, on its banks ; and is a bold rapid stream, about 15 yards wide. We kept down the branch about four miles ; and then came to the river where it passes through a beautiful plain. — Here we halted to wait for a canoe, which we ex- pected that someof the natives would bring up the river, to assist us in crossing; when we intend to encamp until the snow shall have sufficiently melted, to admit of our cros^jig the mountains. At dark the canoe came, but it being too late to cross, we encamped on tire south side. Wednesday 14th. — The morning was plea- sant, with some white frost. Three hunters went over very early to the north side of the river. All the rest of the men were employed in collecting our horses and taking over the baggage. About noon we got all the horses and baggage over safe ; and met with one of our hunters, who had killed two bears, some distance off. So two men were dispatched with him to bring in the meat ; and we set about forming a camp at the remains of an ancient village on the north side of the Koos-koos-ke river. We were accompanied by a number of dn tht uatii^tes, otic of \vhoiti gave us a horse ; and three nlbre of our old stotk \rcre brought in by them. In the afternoon We had an opera- troh performed on seven of our horses, to ren- dei" them hlore peaceable ; which was done by 6m of the native* upbn all but one. In thfe Evening the men came in with th6 meat of the two bears ; and also our other hunters Who had killed three more, all of thfe grimly kind. We gave some of the meat to the natives atotar camp, who cooked it in their own way ; which was done in the following manner. They first collected some stones and heated thfetn, upon which they placed a part of the meat, and upoti the meat some small brush, and so alternately meat and brush, until all the meat was on ; when the whole was covered with brush and lastly with earth ; so that the heap or mass had something of the appearance of a small coalpit on fire. An hour and a half was necessary to cook it in this way. The natives remained at our camp all night. Thursday 15th. — This was a fine morning, and some hunters went out early. The rest of the party were engaged in making places of shel- ter, to defend them from the stormy weather. Some had small sails to cover their little hotels, and others hatl to make frames and cover them Arounri our camp the plains have with grass. 31S the appearance of ameadour before it is mowed, and affords abundance of food for our horses. Here we expect to remain a month before we can cross the mountains. Tiie natives staid all day at our camp; an ! one of them had round his neck a scalp of an Indian, with six thumbs, and four fingers of other Indians he had killed in battle, of the Sho-sho-ne, or Snake nation. The nation here, the Cho-co-nish, is very nu- merous, as well as the other. These nations have been long at war, and destroyed a great many of each other, in a few years past. From the Mandan nation to the Pacific Ocean, the arms of the Indians are generally bows and arrows, and the war-mallet. The war-mallet is a club, with a large head of wood or stone ; those of stone are generally covered with lea- ther, and fastened to the end of the club with thongs, or straps of leather, and the sinews of animals *. * The publisher has seen one of these stone heads, lately found at Hatfield, the farm of Mr. David Davm, three miles from Pitts- burgh, on the Allegheny river. It is of a hard species of stone, and weighsscvcn ounces. It is nearly spherical, with a groove cut round to hold, as it supposed, the strap by which it is fastened to the club. Mr. Gass says it is exactly like those he had seen to the westward. There is perhaps nothing, which hi form it so much re- sembles, as a common round pincushion. In close combat.the war- niallet, when skilfully wielded, must be a destructive and deadly weapon. ' 3\$ In the afternoon, two of our hunters came in, and had killed nothing but some grous ; four more continued out. Friday l6th. — The morning was cloudy, and some rain fell ; but in about two hours it cleared away, and we had a fine day. An Indian per- formed the quieting operation on two more of our horses. In the evening, two of our hunterg came in, and brought with them two deer and some ducks. Two of the hunters still remained out. The natives all left our camp this evening. Saturday 17th. — We had a cloudy wet morning, and some light rain all day. Our other two hunters came in, and had killed two large bears. They said it snowed on the hills, when it rained at our camp in the valley. Sunday 18th. — The morning was cloudy, but without rain ; and ten of the party turned out to hunt. — None of the natives visited us yesterday, or to-day; until about 2 o'clock in the afternoon, when five came that I had not seen before. They remained about an hour, and had some eye-water put into their eyes, which were sore ; after which they went away, and an old man and his wife came for some me dicine, as the old woman was sick. In the evening four hunters came in, and had killed nothing but some grous. Monday 19th. — We had a cloudy wet moru'^ 314 fn^. The old Indian And his wife staid all iiight, and got more rtiedicirte. A pSrty of th^ men went to some Indiah lodges, about foui- miles up the river to buy i-oots ; and in the after- nbon returned with a good many of them. Se* veral of the natives ckmeto our camp with tht men, and in the evening all went away. Wfe ^ot another 6f our old stock of hofsei; and We now all we left, ^xce}it m^t ; two of which the old Stiake guide todk with him. At dark two of our hunters came in, but had tot kilfed any thing. The day was f^jr tlufing the whole of the afternoon. Tuesday 20th.--We a^aifi hid a very wet morning. Two mdre of our hunters cam6 in, hut had killed nothing. It continued rairiing till about noon, when we had fair weather with some sunshine. The hunters said it also snowed on the hills to-day, where they were hunting, while it rained at our camp. About 2 o^clock in the afternoon, another hunter came in and brought a deer th^t he had killed. In the after- noon four of our hunters again went out. In the evening there were some light showers. - Wednesday Gist— There was a cloudy morn- ing. Two more hunters went out; and some men set about making a canoe to fish in, when the salmon come up, as we do not expect to leave this place before the middle of June. To- 315 day we made a small lodge of poles, and co\'er- cd it with grass, for Captains Lewis and Clarke, as their tent is not sufficient to defend them from the rain, At 10 o'clock the weather be- came clear, UHd in the evening was cold, Thursday 22d. — We had a fine clear morning with some white frost. At three o'clock, five of our hunters came in with five deer; previoui to which we had killed a fine colt. In the afternoon we saw a great n umber of the natives on horseback pursuing a deer on the opposite side of the river. They drove it so hard that it was obliged to take the water, when some of our men went down the bank and shot it, and the natives got on a raft and caught it. These Indians are the most active horsemen I ever saw : they will gallop their horses over precipices, that 1 should not think of riding over at all. The frames of their saddles are made of wood nicely jointed, and then covered with raw skins which, when they become dry, bind every part tight, and keep the joints in their places. The saddles rfse very high before and behind, in the manner of the saddles of the Spaniards, from whom they no doubt received the form ; and also obtained their breed of horses. When the Indians are going to mount, they throw their buffaloe robes over the saddles and ride on them, as the saddles would otherwise be too hard. 316 CHAPTER XXI. From the 23d of Maj, to the 20th of June, 1806. Our Stock of Provisiom exhausted. Obliged to kill onh of our Horses. Frequent Visits from the NatiTes. Proceed on our Journej/. Encamp at Corn-mas Flat. Description of the Country/. Reach Hungry CreelCf The Journey continued. m ii FRiDAY 23(1. —-We again had a fine moTning.-— One of our sergeants shot a deer at a lick, close to our cannp, and wounded it very bad, but it got to the river and suam over. Two young Indians who had been at our camp all night, then mounted their horses, swam over and drove it back ; and we killed it and gave them half of it. The river is about two hun- dred yards wide, and cold and rapid. In the afternoon all the hunters came in, but had kil- led nothing more. Saturday 24th.— -This was another fine morn- ing, and two hunters went out. One of tlje men that were sick, still keeps unwell, with a 317 bad pain in his back ; and is in a helpless state. Yesterday we gave him an Indian sweat, and he is somewhat better to-day. Sunday 25th. — There was a cloudy morning, and some light showers of rain fell. Five more hunters went out to-day. In the evening yes- terday, two of the natives brought an Indian to our camp, who had lost the use of his limbs, to see if the officers could cure him, and to-day we gave him a sweat. — Our interpreter's child has been very sick, but is getting better. la the afternoon the two hunters who went out yesterday returned ; but had not killed any thing. The weather became clear, and we had a fine evening, and three more hunters went •out. Monday 25th. — This day was fine and plea- sant, and we finished our canoe, and put her into the water. — In the afternoon two hunters came in, but had not killed any thing: they had procured some roots at a village about four- teen miles up the river. Our stock of provi- sions is exhausted, and we have nothing to eat but some roots, which we get from the natives at a very dear rate. Tuesday arth. — The morning was fair, and pleasant, and several of our men went to the villages around us to ])rocure roots. These roots are a good diet, but in general we do not ielish them so well as meat We tlSKjrefore killed another horse to-day, which one of the natives gave us some time ago for that purpose. He was so wild and vicious that we could not manage him, or do any thing with him. Our sick man is getting somewhat better, and the interpreter's child i» recovering fast! The Indian that we have under cure, had ano- ther sweat to-day ; and our horses, that have had the quieting operation performed on them, are all mending. In the afternoon some raiii itll, and three of our hunters came in, and Iwonght with them five deer, they had kil- led : three men also came ia irom the villages, and hrought a good supply of roots ; six yet re* mained out. Wednesday 5l8th.— There was a cloudy foggy morning. Some huntera went out this morn- ing, and in the afternoon three of them came in with eight deer ; at the same time three more of our men returned from the villages. Thursday 39th. — The morning was cloudy and wet, and the river i& rising very fast ; which gives us hopes that the snowis leaving the mountains. At 10 o'clock the river ceased riiing, and the weather became clear. Friday 30th.— The morning was fine, with a little fog. Two of our men in a canoe attempt- ing to swim their horses over the river, struck the canoe against a tree, and she immediately sunk ; but they got on shore, with the loss of three Ijlankcts, 9 blanket-coat, and some articles of merchandize they had with them to ex- change for roots. The loss of these blankets is the greatest which hath happened to any in- i^ividual since we began our voyage, as there are only three men in the party, who have more than a blanket apiece. The river is so high, that the trees stand some distance in the water. In the afternoon one of our hunters c»me in, who with another had killed three deer, which one of them stayed to take care of, as their horses had left them. Saturday 31st.— We had a fine clear morning with a heavy dew. The hunters went out with two horses for the venison ; and two men went over the river to the villages. About noon a deer was seen swimming the river, and some of our men killed it. Our canoe still lies under water at the opposite shore, but we have a small Indian canoe, that serves to cross in. In the aftejrnooa th^ two men came from the villase with sorpe of the natives, and one of our old stock of horses, which is the last, except the two, which they assure us the old Snake guide took. In the evening the weather became cloudy, and we haci some i:ain with sharp thuur *>i, 3«0 Her and lightning. The two hunters came in with the venison. Sunday 1st June, 1806. — We had a fine morning, after some light showers of rain du- ring the night.— Since last ev( ning the river rose eighteen inches. Two hunters went out this morning, and some of the natives came to see us. The sick Indian is getting much better. The officers got some bear-skins from the In- dians, that are almost as white as a blanket. They say, that the bears from which they get these skins are a harmless kind, and not so bold and ferocious, as thegrizly and brown bear. Monday 2d. — The morning was cloudy, and six of the men went out to hunt. About noon three men, who had gone over to Lewis's river about two and a half days' journey distant, to get some fish, returned with a few very good salmon, and some roots which they bought at the different villages of the natives, which they passed. One of these men got two Spanish dollars from an Indian for an old razor. — They said they got the dollars from about a Snake Indian's neck, they had killed some time ago. 1'here are several dollars among these people, which they get in some way. We suppose the iiiiake Indians, some of whom do not live very far from New Mexico, get them from the Spa- 321 niards in that quarter. The Snake Indians also get horses from the Spaniards.-The men had a very disagreeable trip, as the roads ^vere moun- tainous and slippery. They saw a number of deer, and of the ibex, or big-horn. Tuesday 3d. — This was a cloudy morninrr with a few drops of rain ; and there M^re some hght showers during the forenoon at intervals. The river rises in the night, and falls in the day time ; which is occasioned by the snow melting by the heat of the sun on the mountains, which are too distant for the snow water to reach this place until after night. In the evening three hunters came in with the meat of five deer, and a small bear. Several of the natives continued at our camp. Wednesday 4th. ~ It rained slowly almost all ast night, and for some time this morning. The river fell considerably yesterday, and in the night rose only an inch and a half: At noon one of our hunters came in with two deer he had killed. The afternoon was clear and plea- sant. Thursday 5th. - There was a fine pleasant morning with heavy dew. In the afternoon, four hunters came in with the meat of five more deer, and a bear. An Indian came with them who had been part of the way over the moun^ tarns; but found the road too bad, and the Y /.;k,.«j ?!", Sii snow too deep to cross ; so we arc obliged to remain where we are some time longer. Friday 6th. — The morning was pleasant, and Captain Clarke and five of the party went over the river to buy some roots at the villages, and in the evening rp^vTned with a good supply, ac- companied by So the natives. Saturday 7th. - We had a cloudy morning, M'ith a few drops of rain. I went over with five of our party to the village, on the other side of the river ; and while we were going, some snow fell. The greater part of the na- tives were out hunting. In the evening we all returned to camp, except two, who remained at the village. Some of the natives again came to visit us, one of whom gave a horse to one of our men, who is very fond of conversing with them, and of learning their language. Sunday 8th. — There was a pleasant morning; and bur two men came over from the village, and a hunter, who had been out, returned, without killing any thing. Several of the na- tives still stay about our camp, and are of opi- liion we cannot crtiss the mountains for some time yet. We, however, mean to remove a short distance to where the hunting is better. Monday yth. — This was a fine pleasant day. We caught all our horses and hoppled them, so that we might get them easily to-morrow. We 323 also exchanged some mares with young colts, and some of the horses who had not got quite well, for others more capable of bearing the fa- tigue of crossing the mountains. Tuesday 10th.— We collected all our horses but one, and set out, accompanied by several of the natives, travelled about twelve miles, and arrived at what we call the Com-mas flat, where we first met the natives after crossing the Rocky mountains last fall. Here we encamped, and some hunters went out. The com-mas inows in great abundance in this plain, and at this time looks beautiful, being in full bloom, with flowers of a pale blue colour. At night, our huntc came in, and had killed one deer. Wednesday llth.—We had a fine morning, with some white frost. Several of the men turned out to hunt; and returned at noon, having killed a bear and two deer. In this plain there are the most strawberry vines I ever saw, and now all in blossom. This plain con- tains about two thousand acres, and is sur-; rounded with beautiful pine timber of different kinds. The soil is very good ; the under-wood among the timber chiefly service-berry and gooseberry bushes. In the evening, several of the men started, with an intention of encamping out to hunt ; and one went back to our late camp, to look for the horse which had been left M 3U behind. The natives all left us, and we remained in quietness by ourselves. Thursday 12th.— We had a fine lovely morn- ing, with a heavy dew. I went out with some of the party to hunt ; about eight o'clock, the musquitoes became very troublesome, and at ten we all came in without any success. About the same time, the man who had gone back for the horse, returned with him. About an hour after, four hunters who had been out during' the night, came in ; three of them had been without success, but the other brought in two deer. There are a good many deer here, and some bears, but they are very wild, as they are much pursued by the natives. There is no game of any other kind, except squirrels and some other small animals. The squirrels are about the size of our common grey squirrels, and very hand- some. They are of a brown-grey colour, beau- tifully speckled with small brown spots, and bur- row inthe ground. We killed several of them since we came to this camp. The magpie is also plenty here, and woodpeckers of a different kind from any I had before seen. They are about the size of a common red-headed woodpecker, but are all black except the belly and neck, where the ends of the feathers are tipped with a deep red, but this tipping extends to so short a distance on the feathers, that at a distance the bird looks 3«5 wholly black. In the afternoon, one of the. natives came to our camp, and one of the two hunters that were out, returned, but had killed nothing. In the evening, some hunters went out, with intention to stay all night. The Indian who came to our camp, said he had a no- tion to cross the mountains with us. » Friday 13th. — There was a fine morning, and a hunter or two went out. The Indian ex- changed horses with one of our men, whose horse had not recovered, and was unable to cross the mountains; and thei* went home to the village. At noon, two of our men took their loads, and went on a-head about eight miles to a small prairie, to hunt until we should come up. During the afternoon, the men who went out yesterday to hunt, returned with eight deer. In the evening, the weather became cloudy. The musquitoes are very troublesome. Saturday 14th.— We had a cloudy morning. Some hunters again went out; at ten o'clock, one came in with a deer ; and in the evening, the rest of them, but they had not killed any thing. Sunday 15th. — This was a cloudy wet morn- ling, with some thunder. We left Com-mas I flat, to attempt to cross the mountains ; and had • I sixty-six horses, all very good. We ascended a high mount with a gold deal of difficulty, as the 52^ path "was very slippery, but got over safe to a small prairie, where the two men who had gone on a-head, had killed two deer and hung them up. We took the meat, proceeded down the hill, and found the hunters, who had killed another deer. We halted at a creek, and took dinner; then proceeded over a very difficult road on account of the fallen timber. We had rain at intervals during the forenoon, but the afternoon was clear. We encamped in a sriiall glade, where there was plenty of grass for the horses. Monday l6th. — Wc had a pleasant morning, and renewed our journey ; went up a handsome creek about three miles, and then took to the hills, which are very rough, with a great many banks of snow, some of them four or five feet deep. These banks arc so closely packed aud condensed, that they carry our horses, and are all ia a thawing state. We halted for dinner at a handsome stream, where there was some grass for our horses ; and in about two hours pro- ceeded on again, and had some rain. In the afternoon, we found the snow banks more nu- merous, extensive, anu deep ; in some of them the snow was as much as eight feet deep. In the evening, we came to Hungry creek (where Captftin Clarke killed a horse last fall, and left it for the party), and encamped, that our horses 587 might get some grass, as we do not expect they will get any soon again ; and there is not much here. ^ Tuesday 17th.— There was a cloudy morn- ing, but without rain. We early continued our march; took down Hungry creek about six miles, and then took up a large mountain. When we got about half way up the mountain, the ground was entirely covered with snow, tliree feet deep ; and as we ascended, it still became deeper, until we arrived at the top, where it was 12 or 15 feet deep; but it in general carried our horses. Here there was not the appear- ance of a green shrub, or any thing for our horses to subsist on ; and we know it cannot be better for four days march, even could we find the road or course, which appears almost impos- sible, without a guide perfectly acquainted with the mountains. We therefore halted to deter- mine what was best to be done, as it appeared not only imprudent, but highly dangerous, to proceed without a guide of any kind. After remaining about two hours, we concluded it would be most adviseable to go back to some place where there was food for our horses. We therefore hung up our loading on poles, tied to and extended between trees, covered it all safe with deer-skins, and turned back melancholy ami disappointed. At this time, it began to J «;(' !'!.. ia dS8 rain; and we proceeded down to Hungry creek again ; went up it about two miles, and encamp- ed for the night where our horses could get something to eat. The grass and plants here are just putting out, and the shrubs budding. It rained hard during the afternoon. M^dncsday 18th.—The morning was cloudy, and several showers of rain fell during the day! We started about eight o'clock, and found the road very shppery and bad. Two men went on" a-head to the village to enquire for a guide, and two more remained to look for two horses that could not be found. We proceeded on with four men in front to cut some bushes out of the path ; but did not go far till one of the men cut himself very badly with a large knife ; when we had to halt and bind up his wound. We again went forward; and in crossing the creek, the horse of one of our men fell with him, threw liim off, hurt his leg, and lost his blanket. We halted for dinner at the same place where we dined on the l6th, and had a gust of rain, hail, thunder, and lightning, which lasted an hour* when the weather cleared, and we had a fine af- ternoon. We continued our march till we came to a small glade on the branch of a creek, where we encamped, and some hunters went out in the evening ; we had left two men to hunt at the place where we dined. We fo^nd tiie musqui. 329 toes very troublesome on the creek, notwith- standing the snow is at so short a distance up the mountains. At night, our hunters came to camp, having killed nothing; but saw soHie large fish in the creek, which they supposed salmon. Thursday 19th.— This was a fine morning; «ome hunters went out, and we agreed to stay here all day, that our horses might rest and feed. At ten o'clock, our hunters came in, and had killed a deer. Two men are trying to take some of the fish with a gig. At noon, the two men who had been left at Hungry creek to look for the horses, cam^ up, but had not found them: and with them, the two hunters who were left at the place 've dined at yesterday, and had killed two deer. In the evening, one of the large fish wa-^ caught, which we found to be a salmon-trout. Friday 20th. — There was a fine morning ; we caught six of the salmon-trout; and some hun- ters went out. About nine o'clock, one of them returned, and had killed a brown bear. The musquitoes and gnats are very troublesome. In the evening, the other hunters came in, and had killed only one deer. St lllll ■ i.ihf $Sfi cruPTBR xxir. From iLe 21st of June, to the 2d of July, 1806. ffe return (o the Corn-mas Flat. Proceed on to Hungry Creek, Our Provisions run short. Great Fall of Smw. Arrive at the Warm Spring, Glade Creek. Reach Tratdkr^s-Rest Creek, - Saturday 21st. ~We had again a i5nc morning ; and we collected our horses in order to return to the Com-mas flat. We proceeded on to a creek, where we met two young Indians, who said they were come to go over the moun- tains with us. We halted here for dinner ; aftci* which, all our party proceeded on to Com-mas flat, except myself and two men who remained here to hunt. We wish to kill as much meat as will serve the party, until we get back where our loading was lelV, as we have plenty of roots there to serve us over the mountains. One of our best horses got snagged to-(iay, and was left here. The tv.o Indians remained wltli 931 us, and in the evening, one of the meft killed a deer. Sunday 22d. — We had a pleasant day. The two hunters went out early, and the Indians remained with me at the camp. At noon, the hunters came in, but had killed nothing but one small pheasant. In the evening, they made another excursion, but were unsuccessful. Monday 33d. — We had again a fine morn- ing, and the men went out to hunt. While they were out, the two Indians went on. About ten o'clock, the hunters came in, without having killed any thing ; and at noon, two men came to our camp with orders for four of us to follow the Indians, if they were gone, until we should overtake them, and get them to halt if possible, till the party should come up : but if not, to follow them on, and blaze the way after them ; as the man who had gone to enquire for a guide had not returned, and it was not known whe- ther he would get one or not. The men said they had had good luck at the Com-mas flat, having killed ten deet, and three beai-s. I im- mediately started with three of the men after the Indians, leaving one to take care of the camp, and the lame horse and some more that were there. We proceeded on till we came to the creek where we had stayed the 19th and % r M ' 1 mm'- 'Ih : I 332 20th, and overtbok the Indians encamped there and encamped with them. ' They had caught two salmon-trout since they came to this camp; and shortly after we came one of our men killed a duck ; and we remained together during the night. Tuesday 24th.>-There was a cloudy morning We gave each of the Indians a pair of mocka- sons, and they agreed to stay to-day, and wait for the party. One of our hunters went out but had no success. The day keeps cloudy] and the musquitoes are very troublesome. There is also a small black fly in this country, that so torments our horses, that they can get no rest but when we make small fires to keep them off. -At noon, two hunters went on a-head to a small creek, to endeavour to kill some provision, as we cannot kill any here; and unless the party come up to-night, I intend to go on with the Indians to-morrow morning. In the evening, the party arrived with three more Indians, and we ail encamped together for the night. Wednesday 25th.~There was a iTght shower of rain this morning. We proceeded forward early; and two men and an Indian were sent a-head to look for the horses we left behind when we were here before. At noon, we halted at the creek v\ here the two men were huntino- 333 but they iiad killed nothing. We here took dinner, and proceeded on to Hungry creek, where we met the men with the horses, and en- camped for the night. A considerable quantity of rain had fallen during the afternoon. Thursday 26th. — We had a foggy morning ; proceeded on early, and found the banks of snow much decreased ; at noon, we arrived at the place where we had left our baggage and stores. The snow here had sunk twenty inches. We took some diuner, but there was nothincr for our horses to eat. We measured the depth of the snow here, and found it ten feet ten in- ches. We proceeded over some very steep tops of the mountains, and deep snow ; but the snow was not so deep in the drafts between them ; and fortunately, we got in the evening to the side of a hill, where the snow was gone, and there was very good grass for our horses. So wc encamped there all night. Some heavy showers of rain had fallen in the afternoon. Friday 27th.— We had a cloudy morning, and at 8 o'clock, we renewed our march, pro- ceeding over some of the steepest mountains I ever passed. The snow is so deep, that we can- not wind along the sides of these steeps, but must slide straight down. The horses generally do sink more than three inches in the snow; but sometimes they break through tu their bellies. Ml ss^ We kept on without halting to about five o'clock in the evening, wlien we stopped at the side of a hill where the snow was off, and where there was a little gras« ; and we here encamped for the night. The day was pleasant throughout? but it appeared to me somewhat extraordinary, to be travelling over snow six or eight feet deep in the latter end of June. The most of us how- ever had saved our socks, as we expected to find snow on these mountains. Saturday 28th. — The morning was pleasant, we set out early, and passed the place where we had encamped on the loth of September last, when the snow fell on us. After passing this place about a mile, we took a left-hand path, and tra- velled along high ridges till noon, when we came to a good place of grass, where we halted, and remained all the afternoon, to let our horses feed, as they had but little grass last night. Some hunters went out, as we saw some elk sisns here, and our meat is exhausted. We still have a good stock of roots, which we pound and make thick soup of, that eats very well. In the even- ing, our hunters came in, but had not killed any tb.ing. On the south side of this ridge, there is summer, with grass and other herbage in abun- dance ; and on the north side, winter, with snow six or eight feet deep. Sunday 29th.— There was a foggy morning. 99^ ¥ (I Wc went out -early, proceeded over some bad hills, and came to the old path ; at which time, there was a shower of rain, with hail, thunder, and lightning, that lasted about an hour. At ten o'clock, we left the snow, and in the even- ing we arrived at the warm spring, where we encamped for the night, and most of us bathed in its water. One of our hunters killed a deer, where we dined at the glades or plains on Glade creek, and where there is good grass, and com- mas also grows. Two other hunters went on a-head, and killed another deer on the way. Monday 30th. — We continued our march early, and had a fine morning. When we were ready to set out, we saw a deer coming to a lick at the hot spring, and one of our hunters shot it. Two hunters went on a-head. At noon, another went ©ut a short time, and killed a fine deer. We halted for dinner at the same place where we dined on the 12th of September 1805, as we passed over to the Western ocean. After dinner, we proceeded on, and on our way found three deer that one of the hunters had killed and left for us. In the evening, we arrived at Tra- yeller's-rest creek, where the party rested two days last fall, and where it empties into Flat- head (called Clarke's) river, a beautiful river about 100 yards wide at this place, but there is I I'i! . Pii; . 336 no fish of aiyr consequence in it; and, accord- ing to thfe Indian account, there are falls on it, between this place and its mouth, where it emp- ties into the Columbia, six or seven hundred feet high, and which probably prevent the fish from coming up. Here we encamped, and met with the hunters. Tuesday 1st July, 1 806.— We had a fine morn- ing, and remained here to rest ourselves and horses after the severe fatigue of coming over the mountains, and some hunters went out. The Indians still continue with us. Here the party is to be separated ; some of us are to go straight Across to tl?e falls of the Missouri, and some to the head waters of Jefferson river, where we left the canoes. At the falls, we ex- pect to be subdivided, as Captain Lewis, my- self, and four or five men, intend to go up Ma- ria's nver, as far as the 50th degree of latitude ; and a party to remain at the falls, to prepare harness and other things lecessary for hauling our canoes and baggage over the portage. Per- haps Captain Clarke, who goes up the river here, may also take a party and go down the Riviere Jaune, or Yellow-stone river. In the afternoon, our hunters came in, and had killed twelve deer, most of them in good order. Wednesday 2d.— We continued here dm'ms '''/]! this day, which was fine and pleasant, fixing dur loading, and making other arrangements for our separation. One of our hunters went out and killed two deer. The musquitoes are very trou- l^lesome at this place. 338 CHAPTER XXIIJ. From the 3d, to tlie 26th of July, 1806: We proceed on our Voyage, Our Party separated. We proceed dozen darkens River. Arrive at the Forks. Proceed up Isquet-co-qual-la Piter. Great Civility of the Natives. Peach the dividing ridge between the waters of the Missouri and Columbia. Proceed do'xn Medicine River. Come to the Missouri at the Bear Islands. Reach our old Encampment. One of our Men attacked by a Bear. A boiling -hot Spring. Come down to the Forks at the mouth of Jefferson River. Reach Willow Creek, and Portage River. Thursday sa. — We had again a fine morning; collected our horses and set out. Captain Lewis and his party went down Clarke'* river, and Captain Clarke with the rest of the party went up it. All the natives accompanied Captain Lewis. We proceeded on down Clarke's river about 12 miles, when we came to the forks; and made three rafts to carry ourselves and bag- 359 gage over. The river here is about 150 yards wide, and very beautiful. We had to mdke three trips with our rafts, and in the evening got all over safe ; when we moved on up the north branch, which is our way over to the falls of the Missouri, and, after travelling a mile and a half, encamped for the night. Two hunters went out, and killed three deer. The musqui- toes are worse here than I have known them at any place, since we left the old Maha village on the Missouri. This north branch of the river is called by the natives Isquet-co-qual-la, which means the road to the buflFaloe * Friday 4th. — We had a beautiful morning, and waited here for some time, in order to have a morning hunt, as our guides intend to re- turn ; and we wish to give them a plentiful sup- ply of provisions to carry them back over the mountains. While our hunters were out, a young Indian came to our camp, who had cros- sed the mountains after us. At 10 o'clock our hunters came in, but had not killed any thing. * The route taken by Captain Lewis and his party, is the direct road to the falls of the Missouri, mentioned in Captain Clarke's Wfer; that taken by Captain Clarke and his party, leads to the head waters of the main branch of the Missouri, which they as- cended in their outward-bound voyage, and which is a considerable distance south of the direct course from the falls to the crossing place of the great chain of Rocky Mountains, z 8 it!;] i i t'l ■m m 940 \Vc were, however, able to furnish them with two (leer and a half, from those that were killed yesterday. We then gave them some presents, and took a friendly leave of them : and it is but justice to say, that the whole nation to which they belong, are the mpst friendly, ho- nest, and ingenuous people that we have seen in the course of our voyage and travels. After taking our farewell of these good-hcartcd, hos- pitable and obliging sons of the West, we pro- ceeded on up Isquet-co-qual-la, through a hand- some prairie of about 10 miles, after which the hills come close on the river on both sides, and we had a rough road to pass. Having made 1»^ miles, we encamped for the night ; where the country is v^ry mountainous on both sides of the river, which runs nearly east and west, and is a deep rapid stream about 80 yards wide. Saturday 5th. — We had another beautiful morning, set out early, and proceeded on the same course as yesterday through a rough coun- try, with a number of branches, or small streams flowing from the hills. We killed one deer, and about 1 1 o'clock came to a valley three quarters of a mile wide, all plains, where we halted to dine, and to let our horses feed. The hills upon each side are handsomely covered with timber of the fir kind. While we rested here, one of our hunters killed a cabre or antelope. At one 341 III VI o'clock \vc proceeded on again up the valley. When wc had gone about nine miles, we came to, and crossed a river, about 35 yards wide, which flows in with a rapid current from some snow-topped mountains on the north, where the valley is two or three miles wide. Having gone about four miles further, -we came to the head of the valley, M'here the hills come close upon the river for two miles. After we had passed these narrows, we came to another large and beautiful valley four or five miles wide, and all plains, except some timber on the river banks. In the evening we encamped on the bank of a handsome creek, which comes in from the north, a bold stream of fifteen yards wide. Sunday 6th. — We had a fine clear morning, with some white frost, and renewed our jour- ney early ; saw a great many service-berries, not yet ripe, and some flax which grows on these plains. Having gone about seven miles, we crossed a north branch of the Co-qual-la-isquet, which is 40 yards wide, and was mid-rib deep on our horses, with a rapid current. About seven miles up the valley, we passed a beautiful small lake ; where the river and road leave the valley, and bear towards the north-east between two hills not very large. We kept up the river, through a small brushy valley about the eighth of a mile wide, for a mile and a half, and then !i 'K 342 halted for dinner. Here our two hunters came to us, and had killed a deer. We keep two men out every day hunting. Tn this small valley there is a considerable quantity of cotton-wood timber; and the musquitoes are very troublesome. At 1 o'clock we proceeded on, passed a number of handsome streams wjjich fall into the river, and a number of old Indian lodges. As we advance, the valley becomes more extensive, and is all plain. At night we encamped on a beautiful creek, having travelled twenty-five miles. Our hunters killed four deer to-dav. Monday 7th. — We had a wet night, and a cloudy morning. Continued our journey early along the valley, which is very beautiful, with a great deal of clover in its plainsf. Having gone about five n^iles, we crossed the main branch of the river, which comes in from the north ; and up which the road goes about five miles further, and then takes over a hill towards the east. On the top of this hill there are two beautiful ponds, of about three acres in size. We passed over the ridge and struck a small stream, which we at first thought was of the head watersof the Missouri, but found it was not.Here wehalted fordinner, and afterstaying three hours, proceeded on four miles up the branch, when wc <5ame to the dividing ridge between the waters of the Missouri and Columbia ; passed over the 343 ridge and came to a fine spring, the waters of -which run into the Missouri. We then kept down this stream or branch about a mile ; tlien turned a north course along the side of the di- viding ridge for eight miles, passing a number of small streams or branches, and at nine o'clock at night encamped, after coming thirty -two miles. Tuesday 8th. — The morning was pleasant, with some white frost. We started early and proceeded on nearly north : saw several deer, .cabre, and wolves, in the plains, and after go- ing three miles and a half, passed Torrent creek, » large creek that runs into Medicine river. Shortly after we passed this creek, we went off the path or trail, travelled straight across the plains, and in about fifteen miles struck Medi- cine river, close above the forks, where we halt- ed for dinner ; and one of our hunters killed a deer and a cabre. In the afternoon we proceed- ed down Medicine river nine miles; and, having come, in the whole, to-day twenty-eight miles, encamped for the night; and found the musqui- toes very troublesome. Wednesday yth. — A cloudy morning. We set out early to go down the river ; but had not proceeded far before it began to rain, and we halted at some old Indian lodges, where we took shelter, in an hour's time the rain slackened. In 344 and wc proceeded on ; btit had not gone far before it began to rain again, and the wea^ ther was very cold for the season. At noon we came up with our hunters, who had kjUed a large buffaloe ; so wc halted, and some of us went and dressed it, and brought in the best of the meat, which was very good. We encamp- ed here and lay by during the afternoon, as the rain continued during the whole of it. Thursday 10th. — At dark last evening the weather cleared up, and was cold all night. This morning was clear and cold, and all the mountains in sight were covered with snow, which fell yesterday and last night*. At 8 o'clock we started down the river, and in the course of the day our hunters killed five deer, two elk, and a bear. The road was very muddy after the rain. The country on both sides is composed of beautiful plains ; the river about 80 yards wide, and tolerably straight, with some cotton- wood timber on its banks ; and plenty of game of different kinds ranging through the plains. * It will not be a subject of surprise that snow should fall here in the middle of summer, when the elevation of this part of the country, which divides the eastern from the western waters, is ta- ken into view. Every person will be able to comprehend, that n« small degvee of elevation, above its mouth, will be sufficient to five so rapid a course to the Missouri for upwards of 3000 miles, tven supposing there were no great falls or cataracts. 345 jonc far he wea« loon we killed a tie of us I best of incamp- , as the ing the night. I all the 1 snow, o'clock 3urse of wo elk, fter the m posed ') yards cotton- f game plains. I fall here irt of the :ers, is ta- il that n« fficient to )00 miles. Having made 24 miles, we encamped for the night. Friday Ilth. — This was a fine morning, and we set out early to cross the point, and having gone eight miles, came to the Missouri at the Bear islands, nearly opposite our old encamp- ment. Here our hunters, in a short time, killed five bufFaloe ; and we saved the best of the meat ; and of the skins made two canoes to transport ourselves and baggage across the river. The buffaloe are in large droves about this place. Saturday 12th. — Again a fine morning. We went out to collect our horses, and found that ten of them were missing. I then set out to look for them, went seven miles up Medicine river, where I found three of them and returned to camp. Two more went to hunt for them, and the rest of us crossed the river in our new craft, which we find answer the purpose very well. At night one of the men returned with- out finding the lost horses. Sunday 13th. — The morning was pleasant, and we moved about a mile up to our old en- campment ; opened a deposit we had made here, and found some things spoiled ; and the other man that went to look for the horses not being returned, we remained here all day, airing and sunning the baggage and stores. The musqui- il; lit' V, 346 toes torment us very much, and the wolves con- tinually howl night and day round our camp. Monday 14th.— There was a pleasant morn- ing. We staid here also to-day ; and the mus- quitoes continued to torment us until about noon, when a fine breeze of wind arose and drove them for a while away. Wc deposited the most valuable part of our baggage and stores on a large island, so that if the Indians came, they would not get it. Tuesday 15th.— We had ipleasant weather. One of our men started to go down to the other end of the portage, to see if the periogue was safe, which we had left there ; and, in the after- noon, the man who had gone after the horses re- turned uusuccesstul; but as he saw some fresh Indian signs, he supposed they were stolen, and taken back over the dividing ridge. Captain Lewis therefore concluded to take fewer men and horses with him than he had intended, on his excur- sion up Maria's river. In the evening, the man who had started to go to the other end of the portage,, returned without being there. A white bear met him at Willow creek, that so frightened his horse that he threw him off among the feet of the animal ; but he fortunately (being too near to shoot) had sufficient presence of mind to hit the bear on the head with his gun j and 347 the stroke so stunned it, that it gave him time to get up a tree close by, before it could seize him. The blow, however, broke the gun, and rendered it useless ; and the bear watched him about three hours, and went away; when he came down, he caught his horse about two miles distant, and returned to camp. These bears are very numerous in this part of the country, and very dangerous, as they will attack a man every opportunity. Wednesday l6th.— There was a fine morning. We collected our horses, of which Capt. Lewis took six, and left four to haul the canoes and baggage over the portage ; and then started to go up Maria's river, with only three hunters. We continued here to repair our waggons or truckles to transport the baggage and canoes on, when the num with them should arrive. The musquitoes are still very troublesome. When Captain Lewis left us, he gave orders that we should wait at the mouth of Maria's river to the ist of September; at which time, should he not arrive, we were to proceed on, and join Captain Clarke at the mouth of the Yellow-stone river, and then to return home; but informed us, that, should his life and health be preserved, he would meet us at the mouth of Maria's river on the 5th of August. Thursday 17th. — Wc had a pleasant day, and liiii MS high wind ; which drives away the musquitoes, and relieves us from those tormenting insects. Friday 18th. — There was another pleasant day, and I went down with three of the men to the lower end of the portage, to examine the periogue and deposit there, and found all safe. We took some tobacco cut of the deposit, co- vered up all again, until the party should arrive with the canoes, and returned to camp. Saturday 1 9th.— The weather continues plea- sant, and most of the men arc employed in dressing skins, as we have got all ready for cross- ing the portage as soon as the canoes arrive. The musquitoes were very troublesome to-day. At three o'clock in the afternoon, a sergeant and nine men arrived at our camp, with the canoes and some baggage. They informed me that they had a good passage over the mountains to the Missouri ; and on their way, saw a boiling- hot spring, which in twenty-five minutes would boil meat put into it, quite well and fit for eat- ing. This spring is on the head waters of Wis- dom river. They had got to the canoe-deposit on the 8th instant, and found every thing safe : the whole party then came down to the forks at the mouth of Jefferson river; where Captain Clarke with ten men and the interpreter left them, and went up Gallatin's river, in order to cross over to the Jaune, or Yellow-stone river. 349 They had plenty of provisions all the way. In the evening, we hauled the canoes out to dry. Sunday 20th. —We had a fine day ; but the ^usquitoes were very bad. We concluded to stay here all day, as the men who had come with the canoes were fatigued ; and, in the evening, tried our horses in harness, and found they would draw very well. Monday 21st.— A pleasant morning. One of the men went out for the horses ; and the rest of us put two canoes on the waggons, and moved them forward by hand some distance, when the man returned without finding the horses. Two more then went out to look for them, and at noon came back without finding them. In the afternoon, some more men went out to look for them, who at night returned also without seeing oFany thing them ; and we lay where the canoes were, all night. Tuesday 22d.— We had a fine morning. Eight of us started in various directions to look for the horses, and in a short time two of the men found them; harnessed them in the waggoHs, and moved on about four miles, when one of the axletrees broke ; and they returned to the river to ipend it. Myself and one of the men did not return till dark, and then came to the place where the canoes were upon the plains, with some of the men. Here a heavy shower of rain ff 350 came on, with thunder and lightning ; and wc remained at this place all night. Wednesday 23d- — There was a pleasant morn- ing after the rain ; and I went with the man who came with me last night, and joined the party at the river. They had repaired the wag- gons, and put on two more canoes ; one of which was very large, and gave us a great deal of trouble, as we could not make axletrees out of the willow, that would stand more than six or eight miles. At five o'clock, we got to Willow creek, and encamped for the night ; and made a new axletree. In our way to-day, one of the men cut his leg very badly with a knife, which so lamed him that he had to ride in one of the canoes. Thursday 24th. — This was a cloudy morning. I was ver}^ much indisposed last night, and am yet very unwell. I therefore staid at this camp, and the party went back for two more canoes. About three o'clock, one of the waggons with a canoe arrived and the. party with it; having let the horses feed a whilp, and taken dinner, they proceeded on to Portage river. About an hour after they started, a very heavy shower of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning, came on, and lasted about an hour and a half. Af- ter this, we had a fine evening, and a little be- fore sun-set, the other waggon with a canoe 351 arrived; when we encamped for the ni^ht. The man who cut his leg, is still very lame, and con- tinues at this camp. Friday Q5th.— This was a fine morning, with a very heavy dew. The party set out early for Portage river with the canoe; and in a short time, the men with the other waggon came back= I was by this time so much recovered as to be able to return with the party for anothe? canoe; whi:h is all we will bring over, as the other is very heavy, and injured ; and we ex- pect that the five small ones, with the periogues, will be sufficient to carry ourselves and baggage down the Missouri. About two o'clock, the waggons met at Willow creek, when we had another very heavy shower of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning. At three o'clock, we set out with both the waggons and two canoes to Portage river; it rained on us hard all the way, and the road was so muddy that the horses were not able to haul the loads, with- out the assistance of every man at the waggons. At night, we arrived at Portage river, and then had four canoes there safe. Saturday 26th. —The morning was cloudy. Eight of us went back to Willow creek for the other canoe, and tlie rest of the party were em- ployed in taking down the canoes and baggage to the lower end of the Portage, where the '*rl 352 periogue had been left. It rained very hard all night, which has made the plains so muddy, that it is with the greatest difficulty we can get along with the canoe; though in the evening, after a hard day's labour, we got her safe to Portage river, and the men run her down to the lo^er landing place, where we encamped. A few drops of rain fell in the course of the day. H9 CHAPTER XXIV. From the 27th of July, to the 21st of August, 1806, The Voyage continued. Cross the Rher in order to go to the Mouth of Maria's River. Strike Tansy or Rose River. Encamp. Description of the Country. Reach the Point at the Mouth of Maria's River. Skir* mish with a Party of the Gros-ventre^ or Big-bellied Indians. We commence our Voyage from the mouth of Marians River. Encamp opposite the Mouth of Slaughter River. Pass the Mouth of Muscle Shoal River. Pass the Mouth of Milk River. Arrive at the Mouth of YelloW'Stone River. Proceed on to the Mouth of White-earth River. Pass the Little Mis- souri. Encamp opposite an old Wintering Village of the Gros-ventres. The Inhabitants visit us. The Chief, called the Big-WhitCf determines to go down with us. We drop down to the Village of Big- White. The Big- White, with his Wifcy Child, and an Interpreter, embark in two of our Canoes, to go to the United States. Arrive at the first Village of the Rickarees. We hold a Conn' cil with the Natives. Sunday 27th.— in a fme clear pleasant morning, myself and one of the men crossed the A A 5S4> river with the horses, in order to go by land ta tlie-mouth of Marias river : the rest of the party here are to go by water. We proceeded on throLigii the plains about twenty miles, and in our way saw a great many buftaloe. We then struck Tansy or Rose river, whicli we kept down about ten miles, and encanped. The land along this river is handsomely coveicd with cotton- wood timber, and there is an abun- dance of game of different kinds. In our way, we killed a buflfaloe and a goat. The wolves iu packs occasionally hunt these goats, which are too swift to be run down and taken by a single wolf. The wolveshaving fixed upon their intended prey, and taken their stations, apart of the pack com- mence the chace, and running it in a circle, are at certain intervals relieved by others. In this manner, they are able to run a goat down. At the falls where the wolves are plenty, I had an opportunity of seeing one of these hunts. Monday C8th. — The morning was fine and pleasant, and at an early hour we proceeded down the river. In our way, we killecl six goats or antelopes, and seven buffaloe ; anc about one o'clojck came to the point at the mouth of Maria's river, where we met with the party who had come down from the falls by water, and who had just arrived; and also unexpect- edly with Captain Lewis, and the three men 35S »vho Iiad gone with him. They had joined the party descending the river this forenoon, after riding one hundred and twenty miles since yes- terday morning, ^vhen they had a skirmish with a party of the Prairie Gross ventres, or Bio-.bel- iied Indians, who inhabit the pl*n. up Maria's nver; ofwhicli they gave the following account. On the evening of the 25th, Captain Lewis and his party met with eight of those Indians, who seemed very friendly and gave ti.em two robes. In rctnni Captain Lewis gave one of them, who was a chief, a medal ; and thcv all conti' nued togeilier during the night ; but after break of day the next morning, the Imlians snatched up thrcr of our men's guns and ran off with them. One Indian bad the guns of two men- who pursued and caught him; and one of them kdledhin^ with his knife; and they got back the guns. Another liad Captain Lewis's gun, bat immediately gave it up. The party tlieu went to catch their horses, and t -und the In- dians driving lliem off; when * ,,..ui Lewis " shot one of them, and gavr him a mortal wound; who, rotwithstanding, returned the fire but witho i irt^ng the Captain. So our men got all their own horses but one, and a number of those belonging to the Indians, s they ran off in confusion, and left every thing they had. Our men then ddled their horses, and made to- A A 2 356 wards the Missouri as fast as possible ; after Captain Lewis had satisfied himself with respect to the geography of the country up Maria's river. We this day took the articles out of the place of deposit, and*texamined the large red perioguc we left here, and found it too rotten to take down the river. We therefore took what nails out of it we could, left our horses on the plains, and proceeded down the river. About the time we started, a heavy gust of rain and hail, ac- companied with thunder and lightning,cameott and lasted about an hour, after M'hich, we had a cloudy wet afternoon, and in the evening we encamped about twenty-five miles below the forks. Tuesday 28th.— Early in a clou4y morning, we commenced our voyage from the mouth of Maria's river ; and the current of the Missouri being very swift, we went down rapidly. At noon, we saw some ibex or bighorns, at the en- trance of a range of high rough hills ; and we halted and killed two of them. Having dined, we proceeded on again, and in our way, during the afternoon, killed seven more of these mountain sheep. There are few other animals in this range of high country. In the evening, we encamped opposite the mouth of Slaughter river, and Captain Lewis had four of those animals skele- 357 lonued, to take with him to the seat of govern- ment of tlie United States. A considerable quantity of rain fell in the course of the day. Wednesday 30th.— We embarked early in a cloudy morning, with some rain. In our way through this high range of mountains, we killed four more of the large-horned animals, two buftaloe, two beaver, and a bear. Tlie water of the river is thick and muddy, on account of the late falls of rain, which wash those clay hills very much. We went down the river upwards of 70 miles to-day, and encamped on a prairie island. Heavy rain fell at intervals during the day. Thursday 31st. — We set out early, though it continued at intervals to rain hard. AJbout ten o'clock, we saw a great gang of elk on a small island, where we halted, and in a short time killed fifteen of them. We took the skins and the best parts of the meat, and proceeded. At noon, we halted to dine, and had then a heavy shower of rain. We also killed another of the large-horned animals, or mountain sheep. We remained here about an hour, then proceeded on, and will soon be clear of this range of high rough country. In our way this afternoon, we killed two mule and twelve other deer, and two beaver. Though the afternoon was wet and disagreeable, we came.70 niiles to-day. h: i\ m 358 Friday 1st of August, IS06. We embarked early in a wet disagreeable morning, and in a short time saw a large brown or grizly bear swim- ming in the river, which we killed and took on board ; passed the moutli of Muscle shoal river ; and at noon halted to dine at some old Indian lodges. Captain Lewis being afraid from the dampness of the weather, that the skins he had procured of these big- horned animals would spoil, thought it adviseable to stay here this af- ternoon, and dry them by a fire in these old lodges ; and some of the men went out to hunt. About an hour after we landed here, a large bear came so close to our camp, that one of the men shot and killed it from our fire. In the even- ing, our hunters came in, and had killed several deer. The afternoon was cloudy with some rain; and having made a fire, and put the skins to dry, with two men to attend them, made our arrangements for the night. Saturday «2d. — This was a fine clear morning, and Captain Lewis thought it best to stay here to-day also, and dry all our baggage, as it was become damp and wet. Two hunters were sent on in a canoe to hunt; and in the course of the day, we got every thing dry and ready to set nut the next mornln":. Sunday 3d.--We liad a fine morning, and at six o'clock got under weigh, and proceeded on. 359 Having gone ten miles, we came up with the hunters, who had killed twenty-four deer. We ^v•ent on rapidly, and saw great gangs of elk feeding on the shores, but few buffaloe. At sun- set we encamped, having gone 73 miles. Monday 4th.--This was another pleasant day, and we proceeded on early. One of the small canoes, with two hunters, did not come up last night. We left another small canoe with son^.e iuinters behind, and proceeded on. Wc went very rapidly, and in our way killed a buffaloe, an elk, and some deer. At five o'clock, we passed the mouth of Milk river, which was very Jiigh, and the current strong. Having pro> ceeded 88 miles, we encamped for the night. Tuesday 5th.— Last night was cloudy, and thunder was heard at a distance. About mid- niglit, the small canoe we left yesterday came floating down with the current, and would Iiave passed us if our centinel had not hailed it : the hunters in it killed a bear and two deer. This morning was alSo cloudy, and we halted here till noon, in expectation that the other canoe would come down ; but there was then no ap> pearance of it; and we began to suspect it had passed in the night. The forenoon had become clear and pleasant, and at noon we got under weigh. As we we-.t on, we k-Akd a very fat buiraloeand some deer; and two iKuitei, .vi^ If: I 560 went -head in the morning, killed two very large brown bears. At sun-set we encamped, and at dark a violent gust of rain and wind came on, with thunder and lightning, which lasted about an hour: after which m'c had a fine clear night. • Wednesday 6th. — We embarked early, and had a fine morning, but high wind. At twelve o'clock, the wind blew so violent, that it became dangerous to go on, and we halted; and some of the men went out, and shot a large buck, but not dead, and he got into the river; when two of them pursued in a canoe, and caught him. Having remained here three hours, we again went on until night, and encamped. We have yet seen nothing of the two hunters who had been left behind in the small canoe. Thursday 7th. — The morning was cloudy, and w§ set out early, after a very heavy shower of rain, which fell before day-light. Wc proceeded on very well, and about four o'clock arrived at the mouth of Yellow-stone rfver. We found that Captain Clarke had been encamped on the point some time ago, and had left it. We dis- covered nothing to inform us where he was gone, except a few words written or traced in the sand, which were : *' IF. C a few miles far- ther down on the right-hand side.'' Captain Lewis having left a few lines t^or the two men In $$l the canoe, to inform them, if they are still be- hind, where we were gone, we continued our voyage. At night we encamped, after coming above 100 miles; and though dark, killed a fat buffaloe at the place of our encampment. Friday 8th. — We had a fine clear cool morn- ing, with some white frost; proceeded on early and in a short time passed one of Captain Clarke's camps. At nine o'clock we halted to repair the periogue, and to dress some skins to make our- selves clothing. The musquitoes are n'ore trou- blesome here than at any place since we left the falls of the Missouri. A party of men went out to hunt, and killed some elk and deer ; the rest were employed in dressing deer and cabre skins. Saturday 9th. — This was another fine day ; and most of the men were employed as yester- day ; and in making small oars for our canoes. Two of them went over the river, and killed an elk and a dter. Sunday 10th. — We had a fine morning, and were employed in repairing the periogue and dressing skins, until 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when wc got the periogue completed, loaded our craft, and at four o'clock proceeded on to the mouth of White-earth river, and encamped opposite it on the same bottom, where we en- camped on the ^Ist of April 1805. Tn the after- !H lb M P? i I 362 noon some drops of rain fell; and the musqui- toes here were very bad indeed. Monday Ilth. -The morning was pleasant, and we set out early; passed Captain Clarke's encampment of the nio],t of the 8th instant and proceeded on to the burnt bluffs, where we saw a gang- of elk feeding. Tlie canoes were then sent to shore with a party of men to en- deavour to kill some of them ;\nd we proceed- ed on with the periogue. In about half a mile further we saw another gang ; when we halted, and Captain Lewis and one of the men went out after them. In a short time Captain Lewis returned wounded and vtry much alarmed; and ordered us to our arms, supposing he had' been shot at by Indians. Having prepared for an attack, I went out with three men to re- connoitre and examine the bushes, which are very tliick at this place, and could see no In- dians ; but after some time met with the man wiio went out with Captain Lewis, and found on enquiry, that he had shot him by accident through the hips, and without knowing it,pursued the game.— IJaving made this discover^', we re- turned to the periogue; examined and dressed Captain Lewis's wound; and found the ball, which iiad Unlgtd in his o\cralls. The canoes having come down, we proceeded on, after dressing t w(. elk that had been killed at this place, and 363 passed an encampment which Captain Clarke had left in the morning. We found a note here, informing us, that the Indians had stolen all the horses, which he had sent with a sergeant and party, fron^ Yellow-Stone river, and that the sergeant with the party came down in skin canoes and met him at this place. We then proceeded on some distance, and encamped. Tuesday 12th. — The morning was pleasant, and we proceeded on, Captain Lewis is in good spirits ; but his wound stiff and sore. Having o-one about nine miles, we met with two men on the river trapping and hunting. Captain Lewis gave them some ammunition, and directions with respect to the river above. They informed us that Captain Clarke and party had passed then, yesterday at noon. We proceeded on, and at 10 o'clock overtook Captain Clarke and his party, all in good health. The two men with the small canoe, who had been some time absent, came down, and joined at the place where we met with the two strangers : and now (thanks toGod)we arc all together again in good health, except Captain Lewis, and his wound is not dangerous, After the corps M^ere separated among the mountains, as before mentioned. Captain Clarke's party pir ct- -ed on to the Canoe deposit, near the head uf the main branch of the Missouri 64i (called Jefferfion's river), and having descended with the canoes to the mouth of the branch, which they called Gallatin, Captain Clarke \vith ten men left those, who were to take down the canoes to the falls ; travelled three days up Gal- latin's river towards the south, when they cros- sed a ridge, and came upon the waters of the Jaune, or Yellow-Stone river. Having gone about J. 00 miles down this river by land, they made two canoes, and Captain Clarke, having sent off a sergeant and three men with the horses to the Mandau villages, went down him- self with six other men by water. On the se- cond day after the sergeant and his party had started fon' the Mandan villages, the Indians stole the whole of the horses, and the party were obliged to descend the river in skin ca- noes. Captain Clarke's party in their rout had found game plenty of different kinds, buffaloe, elk, deer, beaver, otter, and some other ani- mals. They also found the Yellow-Stone river a pleasant and navigable stream, with a rich soil along it ; but timber scarce. We here took the men on board, and left the buffaloe canoes. At night we encamped on a sand-beach, as the musquitoes are not so bad there as in the woods. Wednesday 13th. — After a stormy night of w'wil and r.iin.wc set out early in a fme morning; 36i about nine o'clock passed the Little Missouri, and went on very well during the whole of the day. In tlie evening, those in some of the small canoes, which were a-head, saw Indians, who fled before they could speak to them. At night we encamped opposite an old wintering village of the Grossventres, which had been deserted some time ago. Thursday 14th. — The morning of this day was pleasant, and we embarked early. In a short time we arrived near to our old friends the Grossventres and Mandans ; and fixed our encampment in a central position, so as to be most convenient to the different vilkges. The inhabitants of all the villages appeared very glad to see us, and sent us presents of corn, beans, and squashes. Friday 15th. — We had a fine -jlear pleasant morning, and continued here all day, to ascer- tain whether any of ihe chiefs would go down with us or not. — They had to hold councils among themselves, and we had to wait for their answers. The two hunters we left up the river came down, staid with us here, and got one of our party to join in partnership with them, and to return up the rivers Missouri and Jaune to hunt. Saturday loth. — There was a fine cool day ; and we yet remained here, waiting an answer 11 see 111 from the natives. Some of these Indians artf very kind and obliging; furnishing us with corn, beans, and squashes ; but tliere are others very troublesome, and steal whenever they have an opportunity. Yesterday and to-day, they stole several knives and spoons; and tliree pow- der-horns, and two pouches, filled with am- munition. In the afternoon the chief, called the Big- \niite, concluded to go down with us, and we agreed to stay until twelve o'clock to-morrow, that he niiglit have an opportunity to get ready for his vo}age and mission. The commanding officers gave discharges to the man who agreed to return with the hunters up the river, and the interpreter; who intends settling among these Indians, and to whom they gave the blacksmith's tools; supposing they might be useful to the na- tion. They also gave a small piece of ordnance to the Grossventers, which they appeared very fond of. Sunday l/th. — There were some flying clouds this morning, and the weather was cold for the season. The two strange hunters, with the man who had received his discharge, and was to go up the liver with them, went on early. We lashed our small canoes together, two and two, as we expect they will be more steady this way, and cairy larger loads. At noon, we dropped 1*^ 367 down to the village of the Bicr^Vhltc; and I.. his wife, and a child, with Geesem the inter- preter for the Big- White, his wife and two cliil- cJren, emharkcd in two of our canoes to go th(j United States. We proceeded on at two o'clock; the wind was liigh, and river rough ; and in' the evening we encamped, having descended about 20 miles. Monday I8th.-\7e set out early in a cloudy niornnig, and the wind h\g\i. At ten o'clock we kdlcd two deer, when we halted for iv^ hour' and cooked some venison. In the evening we encamped, and some of the men went out,*"and killed live or six more deer. Tuesday J9th. -This was a cloudy windvr mornmg: an .**'^^* '^ 1.0 l.i mm L25 mil u illM 122 IM 1.8 1.6 rnotograpnic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 A m^ iV \\ ^9) .V o'^ 4ip M.^' C^ 370 CHAPTER XXV. From the 29d of August, to the 19th of September. 1806. The Vojyage confmued, Rtack the Mouth of the Chien ^er. Pass Tceton River, and Landselle^s Fort ^oceedon till r,c come to the upper end of the Great Bend, Anive at Pleasant Camp, Pass White River Meet a Band of the Teeton Indians. Arrive at our fmcnmpment of the 3ht of August 1804, and hold a Treat 1/ with a Band nf the Sioux Indians. Proceed on till we come to mr old Camp near the Maha Village. Pass the Mouth of the great River Platte. Encamp on a Sand-beach, opposite Bald-pated Prairie. We continue our Voyage, and pass the Kanzon River. Pass the River Grand. And the .Mouth of Mine i?i- rcr. Reach St. Louis, after an absence of two i/ears, four tnonths, and ten dajys. Conclusion. Friday 22d.-There was a cloudy wet morning, after a night of bard rain, and we stayed at this village to twelve o'clock. The natives used us friendly, and Mith kindness; gave us corn and brans, with other articles; but none of them would go down with us,—' S7I At aoon, we got under «-eigh ; and having pro- ceeded 12 miles, tlie ,veatl,er became clear and we halted to dry our baggage, which got very wet lastmght. At four o'clock, we again went encamped "'""'*■" '"' "'«■"' '"'"=" *<= Saturday 23d.-We set out early in , fine morning, but the wind was high; and we went on very well till near noon, wh'en the wild :" so hard that «e had to halt, and were detain I about fcur hours. Three hunters went on a-head by land, and when we had overtaken them, .hey had k, led two elk and some deer, and w halted to take .„ the meat. Here we had a very heavy shower of rain, which detained us ano- her hour. We encamped at night, and found the musquitocs very troublesome. Sunday 24th._We had a fine morning, and went on very well till noon, when the wind rose and blew so strong, that we were obliged t; halt. Having Ia,n by three hours, we again proceeded, but did not go far before we ,:ere obl.ged. on account of the wind, again to stop, and encamp for the nioht ^ Monday 2.5th.-The morning was again plea- sant, and we proceeded on early, havin., sent Ward two small canoes with fiv; men to°hnt J- we ha.: gone twelve miles, we came to '!'» n.o..th ot the Chien rive, where we halted B B a ii * Jil mmm 372 and staid till noon, for the purpose of taking .an observation. Some of the men went out to hunt, and while we remained here, killed three small deer. At half past twelve o'clock we pro- ceeded on again, and in a short time overtook our canoes, with the hunters that had gone on a-head, and killed three deer. In the evening, we encamped in a handsome bottom, and a hun- ter killed another deer. Tuesday 26th.— We set out early, and had a j)leasant morning ; passed Teetnn river, but saw no siuns of the Teeton band of the Sioux nation. In the evcningi wc passed Landselle's fort ; but found no persons inhabiting it. At dark, we encamped, after coming about 60 miles. Wednesday '27th.— We again had a pleasant (lay, and embarked early ; proceeded on till wc came to the upper end of the Great-bend, and thciG stopped to hunt.* As our hunters saw no •» In a former geographical note (page 88) we stated that the place where Mr. Thomson, Astronomer to the North-west Compa- ny, took liis observations in the year 1798, to ascertain the latitude and longitude of the northern bend of the Missouri, was near the lonftilude of (he Mandan villages. If what Mr. Thomson called the Northorn bend, is the same .with what Mr. Gass calls the Great bend (of which there appears little doubt), the longitude of the Maudan villages will be between two and three degrees west of the northern, or great bend; or in about longitude 104 degrees west of London, 29 degrees west of Pluladelphia, 11. 1.2. degrees west of the Mi.^ouri, and nearly ~0 degrees east of the mouth of the Co- 373 of taking nt out to illetl three ;k we pro- overtook 1 gone on e evening, md a hun- and had a 2r, but saw lUX nation. » fort ; but t dark, we les. a pleasant I on till wc -bend, and ters saw no stated that the th-west Compa- ain the latitude ri, was near the rhomson called 5 calls the Great ongitude of the jrees west of the 1 degrees west of . degrees west of .uth of the Co- game, we in a short time continued our voyage round the bend ; at the lower end of which we killed an elk. As we were passing an island, we saw a gang of buffaloe feeding on it ; when we halted and killed three of them, and en- camped on the island for the night. Thursday 28th, — We had another pleasant day; embarked early, and proceeded on till about eleven o'clock, when we arrived at Plea- sant camp, and halted. We left this camp on the 18th of September, 1804. The command- ing oliicers wishing to procure and take down with them the skeletons of some mule deer, and cabre; and knowing that there were but few of those animals lower down the river, continued h^re the remainder of the day, and sent out six or eight hunters ; who returned at night with- out finding any of the wished-for animals, but killed some fat buffaloe and common deer. Friday 39th. — The morning was cloudy, and some hunters went on a-head very early ; while we amused ourselves till ten o'clock gathering plumbs, of which there is great abundance at this place. We then went on, and passed White river on the south side. The Missouri here is lumbia. This will still sliew the great errors of those maps of Loui- siana, which place the Mai^dap villages I'O degrees west of the lon- gitvide of the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi ; and less thaa 12 degrees east of that of the moufh of th^ Columbia. lip Iff. 374 very full of sand-bars and shoals, and we find difficulty in getting along. About two o'clock we halted to kill some buffaloe, but were unsuc- cessful, and we proceeded till evening, and en- camped. Saturday 30th.~We had a pleasant morning, and went on early, three hunters starting a-head We killed some buffaloe and elk in our way and about two o'clock, met a band of the Teetons. fifty or sixty in number, and halted on the op-' posite side of the river, as we did not wish tQ have any intercourse with them. Here we wait- ed for thi-ee hunters, who were behind ; and during our stay, eight or nine of the Indians swam to a sand-bar about 60 yards from us, and we found that they were the same rascals who had given us trouble as we went up. We could not converse with them, but, one of our men un- derstanding the language of the Ponis, of which they understood some words, we through h\n\ let them know that we wanted to have nothin"" to do with them ; and that if they troubled ust we would kill every one of them. They then withdrew, and, the whole party left t. .river and went off to the hills. Our three hunters returned, and we proceeded on, and in the even- ing encamped on a sand-bar in the river. Sunday 3Ist.-There was a cloudy mornino-, after a disagreeable night of wind and hard rain. 375 We set out early ; went on very well all day ami ,n the evening ei.campetl. where we found tlie musquitoes very troublesome. Monday 1st September, 1806. -This was a fine pleasant day, and we set out early, an .emained with .h«e „,e„ about an hour, got 3ome wh„key from them, ami then continued 0"r voyage. I„ a .hort time, we met another penogue an.l seven men, going to trade with the Mahas, who live on the Missouri. We staid »ome tn„e with these men, then proceede.l, Ind at njght encamped on a willow island Thursday nth.-We set out early, and had a cloudy morn.ng, and slight sho«ers of rain dur.ngthe forenoon. At two in the afternoon we stopped to hunt, an.l soon killed two deer and a turkey ; then procee'^^'" '^88 ; indicatinfr Professor of Public Lw\r - ,,°- ^^^-^-Jh' Mr. Marte."s! ted, and the List of Treaties &c ml ,V <^^ttingen. 1 ransla- hy Wdliam Cobbett. Price 10 ;.S£arlS'" '" '^'^P^'^^-"tTnne, BiNS{l^-(^^;;]{:S,^j:,^5J^;;f A; or THE UNIVERSAL Ciuracters, Moral a,.d Po .ll « '^' '"• ' "^u^" I-^^'^biting the mi the French KevoluUo with t . •r'po^'Pf ^^''^-m^^ thro^u.h! s^ltrtar ^^^ ^"^-- ^-^'o^ voi5r^:!;r tances to Irish A^s^^itec ' fiJ it , Pari"!'.*^ F* '"vV^'n^ ^^'"'t- 12mo. Price 4*. m bouids. ^ iariwli, Esq. M. ?. i vol Quincey Adams. tJ.on M.„