? IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. {./ Y <• fe <° WJ'x. # (/' :/. 1.0 I.I IIM lllllll IM IIIII2.2 IIM 1: 4 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 -« 6" ► V] Edu'Io.n. FUI!LISHP:D 13Y G. E. HOIjIWEIjLi^ OPPOSITE THE POST OFFICE. § 1882 ST. LOUIS HOTEL, ST. LOUIS STREET QUEBEO. THIS HOTKL. WHICH IS UnrivaM for Size, Style aai Locality, IN QUEBEC, Is Open Throughout tt?e Year, for Pleasure and Business Travel. It is cliRibly situated near to, and surrounded by, the most delUrhtful and fashionabh! promenades— the Governor's Garden, the Cltiutel, the hsplanade, the Place d'Armcs, and Durham Terrace— which furnirfh the splendid views and mavnifieent scenery for whic|>Quebec la so justly celebrated, and which is unsurpassed in any part of the world . To Durham Terrace has been added the celebrated Dufferin Terrace, an extension of fourteen hundred feet, with an average width of eighty feet, to a point directly under the flag staff of the Citadel, with steps leading from the Terrace up to the enclosure of the Citadel, thus forming one of the finest promenades in the world, and being two hundred and fifty feet above the river. The Proprietors, In returning thanks for the very liberal patronage they have hitherto enjoyed, inform the public that this Hotel has been thoroughly RBNOVATKD AND EMBELLiiSHED, and can now accommodate about five hundred visitors; and assure tli em that nothing will be wanting on their part that win conduce to the comfort and enjoyment of their gU'^sts. THE RUSSELL HOTEL COMPANY. PROPRIETORS. WILLIS RUSSELL, President. , FYFE, & LEITCH, IMPORTERS, CORNER HOPE HILL AND FABRiQUE STREET. New Goods weekly by every Mail Ijueamer from the very best London and J^aris HouscvS ; Mantles, Cloaks and Sacks ; Travelling Shawls and Wrappers^; Bonnets, Flowers and Feathers ; Real Duchess, Point and Honiton Laoes ; Real Lace Collars and Barbs. Real Lace sets in Duchess, Honiton and Maltese Black and Colored Undressed Gloves in 2, 3 and 4 Buttons ; Black and Colored Mousquetaires Gloves ; Best French Kid Gloves — in 2, 3, 4, and 6 Buttons ; Mantle Velvet and Rich Lyons' Silk , Ladies Underwear in Silk, Cashmere, Gauze and Merino. Latest Novelties in Shirts, Collars, Neckties, Hosiery ; Gloves an^ Silk Handkerchiefs. TAILORING, DRESS-MAKING AND MILLINERY EXECUTED ON THE PREMISES. INSPECTION RESPEOTPULLY SOLIOITED B^OPPOSITE THE BASILICA.-«8 THE RUSSEL, OTTAWA. The Palace Hotel of Canada. THIS MAGNIFICENT NEW HOTEL, ^tted up in the most modern style, is now open. The Russel contains accommodation for over FOUR HUNDRED GUESTS, with passage and baggage elevators, and command a splendid view of ihe City, Parliamentary Grounds, River and Canal. Visitors to the Capital having business with the Government find it most con- venient to stop at The Russel where they can always meet leading publicmen. The entire Hotel is supplied with escapes, and in cases of fire there would not be any confusion or danger. Every attention paid to guests. JAMES A. GOUIN, Proprietor. GUIDE TO THE CITY OF QUEBEC AND ENVIRONS. By THOS. J. OLIVER, PUBLISHED BY S G. E. UOlslVfr^lMlMf OPPOSITE THE POST OFFICE. 1882 PHOTOGBAPHIC VIE'WjS OF" <^XJEBEC. n ^.»»'«""-* »'"""•*<>*„. ''J Hi »'i^' J-t^ BY AUTHORITY, C. B. HOLIWELL, STATIONER, Hi Qj To His Eicelleocy tlie Earl of Merin, ^n (LATK OOy.-OEHEBAL OF CANADA.) f\ H| PRINTER, BOOKBINDER AND ENGRAVER, W ENGLISH AND AMERICAN NEWS DEPOT, S" U Opposite Post OffiM, W 9) Hi C E. HOLI^VELL'S QUIDC TO QUEBEC. LTTHOGSAPHIC The first edition of the "Guide to Quebec" being exhausted, the author ventures on a second edition, which has been much enlarged by the addition of the mention of facts not referred to in the former and the value of which is greatly increased by a map of the city. He, therefore, hopes that the travelling public will duly appreciate his efforts to satis- fy that requirement as visiting the ancient city. Quebec 1882 PREFACE to 1st EDITION. The present work is offered to the traveling public under the impression that it will be of some use to them in their loiterings around the quaint old city of Quebec, and in their visits to the surrounding country, and direct them, in their wanderings in search of the picturesque, to other places more remote. The object aimed at in its preparation has been to give concise information, so that the reader may, at a glance, become acquinted with the history and romance of the different localities, and that being impressed on his memory, his visit may not become altogether a thing of the past, but prove in after days a source of pleasant recollection. It is hardly necessary to state that much of the information has been taken from other works, among which may be mentioned those of Mr. Hawkins, Mr. LeMoine, Dr. Miles, Mr. Rus sell, the Abbe Ferland, Mr. De Gasp6, and " Relations fles Jesuites." The first part is a short historical sketch of the city; the city itself is then described; the surrounding country is next treated; after which are mentioned the places connected with Quebec by steamer and rail. INDEX. PACJE. flistory 6 The Terrace , I Castle of St. Louis . .6 The Wolfe and Montcalm Monument 17 The Union Building 18 The English Cathedral . . , . . 18 The Place d'Armes . 19 La Maison du Chien d'Or 19 The Market Square . . . . . . 22 The Basilica • 23 The Seminary and Chapel 24 The Laval University .... 25 The Battery 27 S^. John's Gate 29 The Esplanade 30 The Garrison Club . 31 Richard Montgomery .... 31 The Citadel . 32 St. Louis Street ..... 33 The Urseline Convent .... 35 The Hotel-Dieu ..... 39 Congregational Church .... • 39 St. Patrick's Church .... 40 Trinity Chapel 40 The Methodist Church .... 40 St. Andrews Church .... 40 INDEX. PAGE. Morrin College . . . The Literary and Historical Society Institut Canadien The Women's Christian Association The High School Chalmers Church . .... The Baptist Church The French Protestant Church St. Mathew's Chapel (Episcopal) Church and Convent of the Grey Sisters Young Men's Christian Association Jeffrey Hale Hospital . . . The Brother's School Le Bon Pasteur and other religious establishments The Marine Hospital The General Hospital ..... The Skating Rink . . . ... The Departmental Buildings .... The Drill Shed ...... Lacrosse Grounds . . . The Harbour . . . Quebec Gaol . . .... The Observatory . . , . . The Custom House ..... Grand Trunk and other R. R. Stations The Gates ..... . . The Environs Beauport Asylum The Falls of Montmorency . . , 41 41 41 41 42 42 42 42 42 43 43 44 44 44 45 46 46 47 47 4« 48 49 49 49 49 SO S4 S4 5$ INDEX. PAGE. Natural Steps .... L'Ange Gardien Chateau Richer . . • . St. Anne The Shrine and Falls at St. Anne Island of Orleans «... Charlesbourg . . , Chateau Bigot . . . i Lake Beauport Lorette . . . • Lake St. Charles .... Lake Calvaire The Grande All^e and St. Foye roads The Plains of Abraham Spencer Wood ...» Cemeteries Point Levis . ' • . . The Chaudibre Falls Les Eboulemens . . • The River Jacques Cartier The Shawenegan Falls Lake St. John Railway St. Leon Springs Levis and Kennebec Railway . . The Metapediac Valley Tadousac River Saguenay .... Murray Bay . . , • - Watering places and Summer retreats . 56 57 57 58 . 58 60 . 61 62 64 . 65 . 67 . 67 68 . 68 69 69 & 70 72 74 79 79 80 80 80 . 80 . 81 81 82 82 . 83 INDEX. PAGE. Riviere Quelle Kamouraska Rivibre du Loup Cacouna .... Trois Pistoles Rimouski .... Metis Lake Mempliremagog Fishing . . . Churches .... Goverament Department Banks The Courts Consulates . . . . Table of Distances from Quebec Carters Tariff Winter Scenes An Ice Bridge 86, 83 . 83 . 83 . 83 84 84 84 85 . 85 87 and 88 88 90 90 91 92 93 95 95 PAGE. 83 83 83 83 84 84 84 85 85 md 88 88 90 90 92 93 95 95 H I STO R Y. jjjlN 1534 Canada was discovered by Jacques Cartier, ^ of St. Malo, in France. The name is derived from '* kanata," an Indian word signifying " a collection of huts." In 1535, Jacques Cartier made a second voyage and made friends with Donnacona, the chief of Stada- cona. where Quebec now stands. Stadacona is Algon- quin, while Tiontirili is Huron, both meaning "the narrowing of the river." The St Lawrence is less than a mile wide opposite the city. Jacques Cartier wintered in the P.iver St. Charles, called by him St. Croix. His winter quarters were at the mouth of the little strc^am " Loiret," near the present residence of Mr. Park, Ringfield, running into the St. Charles, near which, even at this day can be seen the remains of the forti- fications then erected by Jacques Cartier. In 1541 Jacques Cartier made a third voyage, and built a fort at Cap Rouge, and also visited Hochelaga, now Montreal. In 1608 Champlain arrived at Stadacona, aod landing his followers founded the city of Quebec. No satisfactory explanation can be given of the meaning of the word. The city has been besieged five different times. In 1629 Cham- 7 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITV. plain was obliged to deliver up the city and himself and followers to Sir David Kerkt ; but, by the treaty of St. Germain-en-Laye, Canada was restored to France, and Champlain returned as the governor of the colony. In October, 1690, Sir William Phipps appeared before the city and demanded its surrender, which the proud Count de Frontenac haughtily refused. After a harmless bombardment the English fleet retired. In 1 7 1 1, another English fleet under Sir Hevenden Walker sailed for Quebec, but was almost wholly destroyed by a storm in the gulf of St. Lawrence. For these last two deliverances the little church in the Lower Town was named Notre Dame des Victoires. On the 26th June, 1759, Admiral Saunders anchored his fleet and transports, with General W^olfe and the English army on board, ofl* the Island of Orleans, then called Isle de Bacchus. The troops landed on the Island on the following day, near the church of St. Laurent and marched up to the west end, from which they had a view of Quebec, while the French army, under the Marquis de Montcalm, consisting of about 13,000 men, was encamped on the opposite shore of Beauport. General Monckton, with four battalions occupied the heights of Levis, from which place he bombarded the city and laid it in ruins. General Wolfe then crossed to the mainland, to the east of the River Montmorency and on the 31st July attacked the French* and was defeated with the loss of 182 killed, 650 wounded and t 5 missing. After some delay, the English HISTORY. 8 If and of St. e, and y. In ►re the Count rmless nother ed for :orm in Tances Notre chored nd the IS, then on the of St. \ which army, about lore of :talions ace he 1 Wolfe i River ^rench, d, 650 i*)nglish fleet sailed up past the city, and, on the morning of the 13th September, Wolfe landed his troops at a place below Sillery, now called Wolfe's Cove, and scaled the heights, dislodging a French guard at the top of the hill, and forming line of battle on the Plains of Abraham, opposite the city, much to the astonishment of Mont- calm who had been there encamped since the defeat of the British on the 31st July, daily expecting another attack. He hastened from Beauport with his army by the bridge of boats across the mouth of the River St. Charles, and at ten o'clock both armies were engaged in conflict, which in a short time ended in the defeat of Montcalm, who was wounded and carried into the city. Wolfe died on the field victorious, and the spot is now marked by a monument erected to his memory. Mont- calm, it is supposed, was buried in the Ursuline Con- vent. The French army retreated towards Beauport and afterwards to Cap Rouge, and on the i8th Sep- tember, the city of Quebec was surrenc'u red to the English, and General Murray was left there as governor, with a garrison force of 6,000 men. The fleet, with Wolfe s body on board, sailed for England in October. On the 28th April, in the following year, the French army of about ten thousand men. under De Levis, appeared on the Plains of Abraham and was met by the English under General Murray, whose force consisted of about three thousand men, sickness and death having thus greatly reduced their numbers. The English were obliged to retire behind the fortifications 9 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. '■•I of the city, but on the 15th May, an English fleet, under Commodore Saunders, arrived with men and reinforce- ments, when the French army retreated and Canada became an English Colony. In 1775 Quebec was again threatened. General Arnold, with a small army of Americans, arrived on the heights of Levis by the Chaudi^re valley, and on the 14th November landed his forces at Wolfe's Cove, from which they occupied St. Foy and St Roch. General Montgomery arrived on the ist December, and took command The garrison of Quebec, under Col. Maclean, consisted of about eighteen hundred men. The go- vernor, Guy Carleton, under the guidance of Mr. Bou- chette, the father of the late Joseph Bouchette, in his lifetime Deputy Surveyor General of the Province of Quebec, hastened down from Montreal to do his utmost to place the city in safiity. Arnold occupied a house on the south side of the St. Charles river, .0 the east of Scott's bridge, while Montgomery established himself in Holland House, on the St. Foy road. The American troops were quartered in the subu»-bs of the qity, and even in the Intendant's Palace, at the foot of Palace Hill, which was soon reduced to ruins by the fire from the city. On the 3rst December, Montgomery advanced with seven hundred men along Champlain street, and came upon a barrier at which was a guard. At the approach of the Americans a cannon was fired, with deadly effects killing Montgomery, his two aides and others, and HISTORY. lO t, under in force- Canada General 1 on the on the e, from General nd took klaclean, The go- VI r. Bou- e, in his fvince of s utmost a house e east of I himself American city, and )f Palace fire from iced with nd came approach lly effect) lers, and causing the immediate dispersion of the enemy. Arnold at the same time advanced from St. Roch along St. Charles street, expecting to meet Montgomery at the foot of Mountain Hill, and made a combined assault. Arnold occupied the houses on Sault-au-Matelot street, but was ejected from there by a volunteer officer, Mons. Dambourges. Arnold was wounded and taken to the General Hospital. The American loss in killed and wounded was about a hundred ; four hundred and twenty-six rank and file surrendered, and were placed under guard in the Seminary The remainder continued to occupy St. Roch till the 6th May, when reinforcements arrived from England and the siege was raised. Mont- gomery's body was taken to a house on St. Louis street* now a registry office for servants and an inscription painted thereon commemorating the incident, and after- wards buried at the fo«)t of the Citadel Hill, from which it was subsequently taken and buried in New York. In 1837, Quebec was in a state of excitement, caused by the rebellion of that year. The militia were called out and the city placed under military rule, but nothing of consequence occurred. One night, however, was heard a loud ringing of bells, and it was said that the rebels had risen and would sack the place. The cause of all this alarm was, nevertheless, very simple — the singeing of a pig in the Hotel Dieu Nunnery yard. In the following year, Messrs. Teller and Dodge, two American rebel sympathizers, who Were imprisoned with three others in the Citadel, very cleverly effected TI GUIDE TO QUI-BEC CITY. their escape. Four of them let themselves down from the flagstaff bastion, and Teller and Dodge succeeded in passing through the city gates and afterwards reached the United States, In 1832 and 1 834, Quebec was visited by that dread- ful scourge, Asiatic cholera. In the latter year, the Castle of St. Louis was destroyed by fire. On the 28th of May, 1845, the whole of St. Roch was also burnt down, and on the 28th June in the same year nearly the whole of the St. John and St. Louis suburbs suffered a similar fate. By these two fires over $2,000,000 worth of property was destroyed, towards covering which $400)000 were subscribed in Canada, England and the United States, and $500,000 were received from in- surance Last year the greater part of the Montcalm and St. John's wards was destroyed by fire, including the St. John's church and presbytery. In 1846, in the month of June, the theatre, formerly the Riding Cchool attached to the Castle of St. Louis, was destroyed by fire during a performence, when the building was crowned, and forty-five persons lost their lives. Quebec has often been the prey of extensive con flagrations. In 1853, the Parliament Houses were burnt down, when a large library and museum were lost. The Sittings of the House were then transferred to the church of the Grey Sisters near Callow's Hill, which had not HISTORY. 12 then been consecrated. It, however, fell a prey to the devouring element, and the sittings were afterwards held in the Music Hall in Louis street. Since the year 1867, the date of Confederation, Quebec has been the seat of government of the province of Quebec and the residence of the lieutenant-governor, whose beautiful place, Spencer Wood, is well worth a visit from the stranger. II THE CITY. THE TERRACE. Standing on the Terrace, the eastern part of which is called the Durham Terrace and the western the Duflferin Terrace, the beholder is presented with a view which equals any in other parts of the world. The promenade is about a quarter of a mile in length and gives to the lover of exercise unrivalled opportunities of exercise. Thither flock in the evening the beauty and fashion of the old capital and few are the cities which can vie with Quebec in the rare gift of beauty. Erected on it are five kiosks named respectively Plessis, Fron. tenac, Lome and Louise^* Dufferin and Victoria, and also one for the use of bands of music in the summer afternoons and evenings. The famed Bay of Naples has often been mentioned in comparison with it. Being at an elevation of over two hundred feet, a magnificent panorama stretches beneath one, which at the first coup dcdil is almost bewildering. The River St. Lawrence, bearing on its bosom hundreds of vessels of every des- cription, from the tiny canoe, which from such a height appears but a speck, to the terraced palace river boat and the huge ocean steamship, flows majestically down- THE TERRACE. H ward to the sea. Opposite, in the distance, is the town of Levis, crowning cliffs as high as those of Quebec, and and where may be seen the three immense forts erected by the English government at a cost of $900,000, which render an attack from the south an impracticable if not an impossible attempt. Amid the groups of houses are distinguishable churches, convents and schools, while downwards is seen the spire of the Church of St Joseph clustered round by a number of villas and cottages, and jutting out into the river, the promontory called Indian Point, once dotted by the wigwams of the MicMacs but now left desolate, ir> partially inhabited by French Canadians. Towards the east is the Island of Orleans, once called the Isle de Bacchus, from the quantity of grapes then so luxurious of growth, but now no more, and again Tlsle des Sorci^res, on account of the bad repute it had gained in reference to evil spirits and ghosts, which infested the island in times past. On either side, the St. Lawrence passes onward under the names of the North and the South Channels. On the north shore, forty miles in the distance, frowns Cap Tourment ; while, as the eye follows upwards, along the shor^ are the villages of St. Anne, La bonne St€. Anne^ a5 lovingly called by the villagers, Chateau Richer, L'Ange Guardian and Beauport. Nearly opposite the end of the Island is the indentation where rush forever the Falls of Montmorency over the precipice, and from which rises a pillar of fleecy mist. In the rear of all these to\yer, range after range, the Laurentian Mountains, till their blue summits are lost in the azure of the sky. ■■■ n GUIDE TO GUEBEC CITV, Beneath lies the Lower Town with its busy crowds. At the mouth of the St. Charles is the Custom House, and immediately below the Terrace is the Champlain Market Hall, an edifice the result of a political job, whereby a noble Parliament House was spoiled to give place to a useless Hall. Close by it is the Church of Notre-Dame des Victoires, built in 1615 by Champlain, called first Notre-Dame de la Victoire to record the defeat of Admiral William Phipps in that year ; its pre- sent name commemorates the loss of the English fleet under Sir Hevenden Walker in 171 1. At the foot of the cliff runs Champlain street, through which, on the 31st December, 1775, Richard Montgomery endeavored to lead an attack on the city, but met his death at a place close by, now marked by a wooden sign with the inscription : " Here Montgomery fell." Beneath the steps leading from Champlain street to Mountain Hill, called Break-neck Stairs, was discovered some years ago the tomb of Champlain. His house was in the vicinity of the Church of Notre-Dame des Victoires. Prescott Gate, called after General Prescott, and de- molished in 187 1, stood at the spot where the city walls are divided, close to the foot of the steps opposite the Parliament Buildings — a miserable, shambling construc- tion, a disgrace to the province. They occupy the site on which once stood the Bishop's Palace, and where the first cemetery was established, from which in fate years have been taken bones and articles of Indian workman- ship. In the Parliament Buildings little is to be seen, saving the Assembly and Council Chambers, »nd a Ill ,1 '■■ If; CASTLK OF ST. LOUIS. I6 good library of English and French works. So soon as the Legislature Building on the Grande AUee shall be completed the sessions of the local parliament will be held there and the present building be devoted to some other public service, or given up to the Fabrique de Quebec which receives for it an annual rent of 2*1,000 sterling. CASTLE OF ST. LOUIS. Turning our eyes citywards, we find a large building heretofore forming part of the outhouses of the Chateau St Louis, which was erected by Champlain in 1620 wb ^-e the Terrace now is standing on the edge of the clii:. It is intended to build a large hotel on this site, but the prospect of carrying out such a scheme is far off. Here the French and English governors resided under their respective dominations, until its destruction by lire [n 1834, at that time occupied by the governor, Lord Aylmer. On the 31st Dec, 1775, on the occasion of the night attack by Montgomery and Arnold, the gover- nor. Sir Guy Carleton, was giving a ball in the Castle, and the officers had to rush to the walls in their ball costume. The garden attached to the Castle, called the Castle Garden, commonly known as the Lower Governor's Garden, is now open to the public and form part of the Dufferin Terrace ; in it is a masked battery of four guns and twocarronades on the Crescent battery. On the slope towards the Place d'Armes, once stood the Riding School in connection with the Castle, and 17 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. 4,,; afterwards converted into a theatre, which was destroyed '" by fire in June 1846, during a performance, when forty- , five persons were burnt to death. A company has lately been formed for the purpose of building a mafini- ficent hotel on the vacant space near the Terrace. THE WOLFE AND MONTCALM MONUMENT. In the Upper Governor's Garden is the monument erected to Wolfe and Montcalm, the foundation stone of which was laid by the Earl of Dalhousie, the governor- in-chief, on the 15th May, 1827. It was taken down and rebuilt in 1871 at the expenses of a few citizens. The following are the inscriptions : Mortem, virtus, communem, Famam Ifistoria, Monumentum Poste '*:xs iJedit. Hujusre Monument! in memoriam virorum illustrium, Wolfe et Montcalm. Fundamentum P. C. GeorgiuSj Comes de Dalhousie : In septentrionalis Americae partibu* Summam rerum adminlstrans ; Opus per multos annos praeierm ssum. Quid duci egregio convenic' tins ? Auctoritate piomovens, exemplo stimulans Muniticentia fovens, iJie Novcmbris xv, A. D. MDCCCXXVir, Georgio iv, Britanniarum Rcgc. I m THE UNION BUILDING 18 In passing the gate of the building heretofore oc- cupied as the Normal School, the stranger may notice a stone which has been incorporated into the wall, bearing the date 1647, and having a Maltese cross cut upon it. It was the foundation stone of the ancient Castle of St. Louis and laid by the then governor, M. de Montmagny, a Knight of Malta. ' ' • , ■ THE UNION BUILDING. To the north of the Place d'Armes is the Union Building, where in the year 1808, and for some time afterwards, the famous Club of Barons, comprising the principal men of the province and city, were wont to hold their annual dinners. It was afterwards used as an hotel, and is now let out into offices. THE ENGLISH CATHEDRAL. To the west of the Place d'armes is the English Cathedral, built on the ground where orce stood the ancient church of. the Recollets and their convent, which were destroyed by fire in 1796. The present building was consecrated in 1804 ; it is built in the Roman style of architecture, and its mural monuments are very fine. In the north east corner of the Cathedral close once stood the venerable elm tree undf^ which Jacques Cartier first assembled his followers on their arrival in the colony, and there are now some magnificent linden trees ornamenting the enclosure. The elm was blown down on the 6th September, 1845. 19 QVIDE TO QUEBEC CITV. THE PLACE D'ARMES. The ring, or Place d'Armes, where the Hurons who had been driven from Lake Simcoe encamped in 1650 constituted in the time of the French the Grande Place where military parades were held and public meeting called, and was the fashionable promenade of the day. To the south of the Cathedral are the Rectory and the Chapel of All Souls, in rear of which once stood the old Court House, destroyed by fire in 1873, and with it the records and law proceedings of over two centuries. LA MAISON DU CHIEN D'OR. Passing to the north by Fort street, we come to a handsome building, the Post Office, erected in 1878, on the site of the old buil ling, which has a world of history connected with it. The famous Golden Dog, a puzzle to so many, occupies its old position above the door on Buade street, just opposite the Chien d'Or restaurant, as much resorted to in these days as was the inn kept by Miles Prentice in former times on the site of the Post Office when Montgomery ard Admiral Nelson frequented it. Underneath the Golden Dog are the lines : Je suis un chien qui ronge I'os, En le rongeant je prends nion repos, Un temps vifendra, qui n'est pas vena, <^ue je mordray qui m'aura mordu. 1736. ' . ' LA MAISON DU CHIEN D OR. ao In demolishing tift ancient structure, a corner stone was found, on which was cut a St. Andrew's cross between the letters P H, under the date 1735. ^'^ this was found a piece of lead bearing the following inscription : Nicolas fAQUEs^ dit Philibcr . m^a pose le 26 Aout, 1735- The story in connection therewith is told as follows: — In this building lived a wealthy merchant of the name of Philibert, who had many causes of complaint against the Intendant, whose high position could ^« \. valley of the St. Charles and down the St. Lawrence can be had. This University is every day becoming more popular, not only with the French Canadians, but throughout the Dominion and the United States. The remains of Monseigneur de Laval, which had been interred after his death, 6tlT May, 1708, in the Basilica, and afterwards exhumed and reinterred in the same place by Mgr. Pontbriand, were discovered during some excavations in the Basilica in 1877, and were re- intered with great ceremony and pomp on the 23rd May 1878, a procession bearing the remains and visiting the four churches, which it is said were visited by the first funeral cortege ; the Seminary Chapel, the Ursuline Chapel, the Congregational Chapel and the St. Patrick's Church (the Recollet Church being no longer in ex- istence). On this occasion 100 guns were fired at in- tervals of one minute and a half, from the Jesuit Bar- racks yard, by the Volunteer Field Battery. THE BATTERY. Leaving the University by the eastern entrance, the visitor finds himself on ihe Battery, in rear of the Parliament Buildings. The following are the names of the different batteries, extending to Palace Gate: The Assembly Battery, 9 guns ; the Grand Batter}', 17 guns , the St. Charles Battery, 2 guns and 3 bombs ; Half Moon Battery, i gun ; Hope Gate Battery, 4 guns ; Montcalm Battery, 4 guns ; Nunnery Battery, No 2, 4 guns artd 2 howitzers ! Nunnery Battery, No. i, 2 guns THE BAITF.RV. td ilnd 2 howitzers. In addition to these there are, in tiie Lower Governor's Garden and beneath the Dufferin Terrace, Wolfe's Masked Battery of 4 guns and i Palliser cannon, and two minor batteries with 4 guns. Hope Gate, like the others, has been demolished, and a promenade occupies thti site of the former Block House. At a short distance to the west of this pro- menade is the former residence of Montcalm, now converted into ordinary dwelling-houses. Proceeding along by the Battery road, the view of the St. Charles valley and the Laurentides is enchanting, and the suburbs of St. Roch stretch by the banks of the meandering St. Charles till they merge into green fields and happy-looking farms. The next ^te is Palace Gate, demolished beyond recognition. Its guard house is now no more, and the barracks which once stood on the opposite side of the street were one Christ- mas night destroyed by fire, the result of the freedom allowed to the men by the colonel. The consumption of liquors generated carelessness, which ended in a mass of ruins on the following morning. Outside the gate, at the foot of the hill, in rear of Boswell s Brewery, is all that remains of the Intendant's Palace, once the abode of luxury, the scene of revelry and debauchery, a building which outshone in splendor and magnificence the Castle of St. Louisj and whose lords considered themselves the equals, if not the superiors, of the governors. Here the infamous Bigot concocted the nefarious, plottings of the Friponne ; here he squandered the thousands which he robbed from the 29 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. Public Treasury, and pilfered from the downtrodden inhabitants of New France. His princely mansion now serves but as vaults for casks and puncheons of ale and porter. In close proximity to the Artillery C '•racks are what were once the officers' quarters, delightfully situated in a shaded park, rejoicino; in a shubbery, wild and luxu- rious, forming the beau ideal of cool retreats, amidst piles of brick and mortar. It is now occupied as a military laboratory for the manufacture of ammunition for the Canadian Government. ST. JOHN'S GATE. lliis is but a modern structure, which might as well have been left unbuilt. The old gate was found to be such an obstruction to general traffic and travel that it had to be demolished, there being through it, but one passage which was so narrow that only a single vehicle at ?i time could pass, and foot passengers could get through v.'ith difficulty. The present gate had to be built, for the English Government insisted upon the old gate being replaced in case of war 1 It has no advantage and a very great drawback, as the upper part is not im- pervious to water, which now continuously falls upon those passing under it. Opposite the gate, within the walls, is one of the old buildings, but it has outlived its story, and imagination has not unravelled it. It is oc- cupied by Mr. Johnson, a baker. THE ESPLANADE. THE ESPLANADE. 30 On D*Auteuil Hill, where a street has been cut through the city walls, is the Kent Gate, the foundation stone of which was laid by H. R. H. the Princess Louise in June 1879. It is a very handsome erection, built in the Norman style with a turret, from which can be had a magnificent \ iew of the valley of the St. Charles and River St. Lawrence. Near by is the Church of the Congregation. In this church were committed a daring robbery and sacrilege ; the altar ornaments being stolen by a man named Chambers and his gang, who, at the time, over forty years ago, inaugurated a reign of terror by their astounding and many robberies. For this last crime, however, he and his gang were found guilty* and transported. Opposite is the Esplanade, which runs as (ar as St. Louis street, and is bounded to the west by the city walls. From the summit one can trace the old French fortifications which defended the city in its early history ; but these are fast disappearing ; road-makers ani house-builders are using up the material, and there is no one to say nay to the vandals. Before the with- drawal of the Imperial troops, the esplanade was strictly guarded ; sentinels patrolled the ramparts, and no thoroughfare was allowed after gun fire. But it is now the resort of the athletic clubs in the city ; lacrosse, foot-ball, base-ball, cricket and other games are plaj'ed there continually during the summer, and snowshoeing and tobogganing are the amusements of winter. The Band of A Battery, at times delights the promcnaders 3' GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITV. with their evening concerts, and here also the occupants of the Citadel and the volunteers perform their evolu- tions. There are still some remnants of past glory. A few dismounted cannon may be foHnd on the ramparts, while a dozen more lie side by side on the ground beneath these, and the sentinel poplars still keep their watch as of yore. To the south of the Esplanade is the building occu- pied as the Normal School. It was formerly the resi- dence of Chief-Justice Sewell. In rear of this is the armory of the volunteers. THE GARRISON CLUB. The next building, of one story, was formerly occu- pied by the Royal Engineers, and is now used by the Quebec Garrison Club, composed of officers of A Battery and citizens. RICHARD MONTGOMERY. Close at hand, on the Grande A\\6e, is where once stood St. Louis Gate, now replaced by Dufferin Gate, In honor of the popular Governor General of Canada of that name. It is like the Kent Gate built in the old Norman slyle, with a tower and turret. Near the foot of the Citadel Hill, which winds up on the south side, is where Richard Montgomery was buried, after the attempt on 31st Dec, 1775, from which place, on i6th June, 1818, his body was taken to New York, and interred in St. Paul's Church Cemetery. THE CITADEL. 32 upants evolu • y. A ffparts, rround ip their I OCCli- le resi- is the ly accii- ised by :r& of A jre once Gate, .n a of that Norman e Citadel Richard I St Dec, his body t. Paul's THE CITADEL. At the top of th'^ Hill is the chain gate, by which access to the trenches is gained ; and to the Citadel the visitor passes through Dalhousie Gate, called so after Lord Dalhousie, once a governor of the Colony. At this gate a guard is stationed, and visitors are here furnished with a guide to show them over the Citadel. Behind the walls are casemated barracks for the troops, and these are loopholed for musketry, so as to command the trenches, while on the summits are cannon com- manding all approaches to the city and landward, while on the opposite side are batteries commanding the harbor. Two Armstrong guns are here mounted, as also a huge PalUser. Across the Citadel Square are the officers quarters ; stores for ammunition, stables and other buildings occupy the western portion of the Square. To the south, directly overlooking the river, is the Flagstaff Bastion, on which is mounted an Arm- strong gun. This battery is over three hundred and fifty feet above low water, and the view from it is the grandest in the world, commanding the river up and down for many miles. To the west are the Plains of Abraham, where v/as fought the decisive battle of 13th September, 1759. Three Martello Towers, built in 1812, are to be seen, constructed weak towards the city, so as easily to be destroyed in the event of capture, and strong on the outer side, having cannon mounted. Im- mense military stores are constantly kept ready for use in the Citadel, and arms for twenty thousand are ready S3 GtriDE TO QUEBEC CTTV. at a moment's notice. In the event of the capture o{ the city, it could easily be destroyed from the Citadel, the A Battery, consisting of about two hundred rank and file, is now quartered there, and seerris but a hand- ful in the immense fortress. Among the improvements proposed by the Earl of Dufferin was the construction of a new Castle of St. Louis in the Citadel, in the Norman style of architecture^ to be the residence set apart for the Governor General of Canada, but that scheme is not likely to be carried out. ST. LOUIS STREET, Descending the Citadel Hill, we return ta St. Louis street. At a short distance on the left band side, is the City Hall, built on the site of the house once occupied by the chemist, M. Arnous, to which, as statetl by son>e, Montcalm was carried from the Plains of Abraham after being wounded. The third house from the next corner on the same side, now occupied by Mrs. Pigott as a registry office for servants, is the house to which Genei al Montgomery's body was taken on that fatal 31st Dec, 1775. It was then occupied by a cooper named Gaubert^ and from it the body was taken and buried, as above mentioned, at the foot of the Garrison Hill. Further down the street, on the right hand side, is a large building, now occupied by Col. Forest, which Intendant Bigot, with his wonted liberality with things not belonging to him, presented to his mistress, the ^T. LDUIS STREET. 34 ire of itadel. 1 rank , hand- £arl of of St. tecturcy General carried ,t. Louis e, is the )ccupiecl t>y som>e, lam after tt corner ott as a 1 General I St DeCr . Gaubert, as above side, is a ;st, which ith things stress, the beautiful Madame De Paen, n^ Angelique Des Meloises, the wife of De Paen, Bigot's chief assistant in all his nefarious transactions. After Bigot had returned to France stripped of his honors and of his illgotten wealth, and branded with the name of thief, Madame De Paen was not forgetful of her quondam lover, but, out of the spoils she had managed to keep saf5e, allowed him a moderate competency. Mr. Kirby, in his historical romance, "The Golden Dog," has woven an exceedingly intricate and exciting plot out of the loves of these two personages. The residence of the fair and proud Angelique became, under English rule, quarters for officers not residing in the Citadel, and the buildings in rear were used as the Military Hospital. These build- ings from an hospital have become Her Majesty's Courts of Law in this district, much to the disgust, incon- venience and general dissatisfaction of the gentlemen of the long robe. In rear of these present Courts of Law is a hill called Mount Carmel, on which in the time of the French^ domin- ation, stood a wind-mill, turned into a tower of defense by a heavy cannon mounted thereon for the protection of the colony, against the inroads of the warlike Iroquois. The wind-mill has disappeared, but in the spring-time the lilac trees on its summit present a most delightful sight, while the delicious odor from them is some com- pensation to those who have to practice law in what was formerly an hospital. Further down St. Louis street, on the same side, are two small houses irregularly located, which cannot fail '■'^\ i- rf- ■■0 35 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. of attracting notice by their ancient style of architecture; the immense thickness of their walls, their small doors and windows, the lowness of their basement story, in fact their only story, their huge chimneys and their peaked roofs mark them as of the old time. But, like the house near St. John's Gate, they have outlived their story, and these pages must be truthful and not manufac- ture one, although such might be easy ; for their posi- tion must have had a romantic side to it, so near to the naughty De Paen, so close to the Ursuline Convent, and Mad. De la Peltrie's habitation, and lying secure beneath the protecting tower on Mount Carmel, beside the stream which history tells us flowed down from the Cape to the River St Charles. The inmates of these two old cottages mu.«t have known something of the intrigues at court, of extravagant doings in high places* of hideous cruelty and outrage. A livery stable keeper, Mr. Campbell, kills the romance by keeping horses and vehicle on hire, but greatly to the convenience of the guests of the St. Louis Hotel, who wish to drive them- selves along the beautiful country roads and visit the many attractive localities in the surrounding country. THE URSULINE CONVENT. Passing down the street opposite these oldfashioned structures, we come to the Ursuline Convent and Chapel, in which lie the remains of the brave Montcalm. Madame De la Peltrie, a pious French lady, founded the Convent in 1641, and as is usual with all buildings I*. THE URSULINE CONVENT. 3^ cture; doors Dry, in . their It, like i their inufac- r posi- to the )nvent, secure beside Dm the f these of the places* keeper, ies and of the e them- isit the ntry. shioned Chapel, )ntcalin. founded mildings of that time, it was destroyed by fire in 1650. Being rebuilt, it was again destroyed by fire on 21st Oct., 1686. On both these occasions, the Ursuline nuns were re- ceived by the Hospitali^res Nuns of the Hotel Dieu. It v/as again rebuilt, the whole colony assisting in its construction, so loved and esteemed were Madame De la Peltrie and the Ursulines. The Convent has been greatly enlarged during the last few years. A garden is in the rear, in which about twenty years ago was a monarch ash tree. ' The Chapel of St. Ursula is alongside the Convent, in which are the following valuable paintings : - Ph. de Champagne. J. Pnidhomme, 1737. From Florence, De Dieu, 1741. Champagne, Jesus sitting down at meat in Simon's house Death of Su Jerome .... Hishop St. Nonus admitting to penance St. Pelagia The wise and foolish virgins - - _ The miraculous draught of fishes 'I'he Virgin, the Infant and St. Catherine. St. Theresa in ecstasy. The .Annunciation. - _ - Christ's adoration by the shepherds. The Saviour exhibiting his heart. The Saviour preaching The portrait of the Saviour according to St. Luke - The Virgin and Infant _ - - Redemption of Captives at Algiers, by the Reverend Father of Mercy - - - Ristout. France offering religion to the Indians ofCanada, an al- legory by a Franciscan, 1700 St. Peter conccalii^ himself to witness the sufferings of Christ _ _ _ - Spanish School. A monument to the memory of Montcalm, erected Sept. T4th, 1 859 J deserves attention. A monument to the memory of Montcalm was also erected by Lord Aylmer, in 1832. The following relics are in the Chapel and Convent : The body of St. Clements, from the Catacombs of Rome, \ 37 GUIDE TO (jUtBEC CITY, •j ■"•;'' brought to the Ursulines in 1687. The skull of one of the companions of St. Ursula, 1675 5 ^h® skull of St- Justus, 1662 , a parcel of the Holy Cross, 1667 > ^ parcel of the Crown of Thorns, brought from Paris in 1830. Opposite the Chapel is the site of Madame De la Peltrie's house, whereon is a cut-stone house now erected. Turning up Garden street, (and we may mention that it was through this street that Theller and Dodge passed after their perilous descent from the Citadel towards Hope Gate), we find two more old-fashroned houses Oil tl ,, right hand corner, facing the St. Louis Hotel, ore a h air-dresser's establishment, kept by Mr. Williams, anu tiie other a saloon, called the Mont calm Cottage, kept by Mr. Henry Gilchen. They have undergone some modernizing touches but are of the same style of architecture as the two above mentioned. In them it is said Montcalm established his headquar- quarters, and here, probably, he discussed with his officers the action to be taken against the enemy, when they appeared on the heights of Abraham, and decided upon meeting them on the open field, rather than remain entrenched behind the city walls-a decision'^which proved so fatal to victor and vanquished, and which gained for England the Dominion of Canada, and lost to the French King what he contemptuously designated " a few acres of snow." On the opposite corner is the Masonic Hall, on the ground flat of which is Mr. Gustave Leve's office for the issue of tickets by all the railroads and steamship THE URSULINE CONVENT. 38 lines in Canada and the United States, and even in Europe. In the same building i;, the agency of the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa and Occidental railway. Opposite is the St. Louis Hotel, the best in the city as regards locality and everything else. To the right of the Hotel is the Music Hall, where operas, theatricals, concerts and lectures are held, — when there are any. To the east of the hotel is the building which was once the residence of the Duke of Kent, the father of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. In 1 791, he enlivened the elite of Quebec society by his dinners 2ir\dpetits soupers^ presided over by the beautiful Madame St. Laurent and which too often attained a doubtful celebrity. After- wards, the building was occupied by Judge Van Felson, a great friend of the Duke's, and a constant guest at his peiits soupers. When passing down Palace street, the visitor will notice a statue of General Wolfe in a niche in front of the house at the westerly corner of Palace and John streets. This statue, carved by the brothers Cholet for Mr. Hipps, a butcher, proprietor of the then house, was placed by him in the niche, in 1771. The Albion Hotel is on the right hand side of the street, and directly opposite it is an old-fashioned building with the dis- tinguishing thick wall and cavernous vaults of the French era ; in this house resided M. Brassard Duchesnaux, the bosom friend of the infamous Intendant Bigot. ^1 39 < \: \ -K GUIDK TO QUfc:i;EC CITY. THE HOTEL-DIEU. On the opposite side of the street, at a short distance, is the entrance to the Hotel-Dieu Convent and Hospital, founded in 1639 by the Duchess d*Aiguillon, who brought out the Hospitali^res Nuns and placed them in charge. Prior to the siege of 1759 it was destroyed by fire, and afterwards rebuilt. It consists of a convent and hospital in which patients are treated gratis. At times, the house of these benevolent ladies is filled with unfortunate invalids, who receive unremitting care and attention from the Sisterhood. The bones of the martyr, the Rev. Father Gabriel Lalement and the skull of Father Breboeuf, are deposited in the convent. The entrance to the chapel is on Charlevoix street. The following are among the paintings : The Nativity Tiie Virgin and Child Vision of St. Therese St. Bruno in meditation The descent from the Cross The Twelve Apostles The Munk in prayer • . Stella. • Noel Coypol. . Geul Menageot. , Eustache LeSueur. Copy, by Plamondon. Copy, by Baillarge the elder. . D^Zurbaran. CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. Opposite the entrance to the Hotel-Dieu is the Congregational (Protestant) Church, a plain building seating about 600, erected in 1840, which is now un- occupied. ST. Patrick's church. ST. PATRICK'S CHURCH. 40 In the adjoining street (McMahon) is St. Patrick's Church, erected in 1832, now under the ministration of the Redemptorist Fathers. It has lately he^u enlarged and greatly improved, by frescoing che walls and ceilings A magnificent organ has also lately been erected. Attached to it is the Presbytery, and in rear of it is the St. Patrick's Catholic Literary Institute, founded in 1852. TRINITY CHAPEL. The Trinity Chapel (Episcopal) in St. Stanislaus street, was for some years used by the military, and was closed after the withdrawal of the troops. It is now under the ministration of the Rev. Ker. THE METHODIST CHURCH. At the top of the same hill is the Methodist Church, erected in 1850, in a flamboyant style of architecture. It seats about 1,600. ST. ANDREWS CHURCH. Close at hand is St. Andrew's Church, built in 18 10 and enlarged in 182 1. It accomodates 1,500 persons. A mance and schoolhouse are attached. ■I: h f ; I * 'J. lii 41 GUIDE TO QUEIJEC CITY. MORRIN COLLEGK. In a building which was formerly the district goal, erected in 18 14, at a cost of $60,000, is the Morrin College, which was founded by the magnificent endow- ment of the late Dr. Morrin of Quebec in i860, incor porated by Provincial Act of Parliament in 1861^ and opened in November, 1862. It is affiliated with McGill University of Montreal. Its faculty of Divinity is in connection with the Church of Scotland. The late Mr. Justice Aylwin presented it with his magnificent Law Library. THE LITERARY AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY. This Society which was founded by Lord Dalhousie in 1824, has its rooms in Morrin College. It has a large Library and an extensive Museum, and is now in a flourishing condition. _ INSTITUT CANADIEN. This Society is in such a flourishing condition that it has lately purchased the large building on Fabrique street called Bilodeau's Building, from the Marquis de Bassano for the sum of $6,000. THE WOMEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION is situated on St. Anne street, nearly opposite Morrin College court. THE Hir.H SCHOOL. THE HIGH SCHOOL. 42 The Quebec High School is a handsome building, situated in St. Denis street, at the foot of the glacis stretc. ling downwards from the Citadel. It was establish- ed in 1S45, and many of the leading men of the city have received their education within its walls. CHALMERS' CHURCH, in St. Ursule street, bailt after the Gothic style, was erected in 1852. It seats about 900 persons. This church was the scene of the Gavazzi riot, which took plact^ in 1859, and was the cause of much imbitterment between the Roman Catholics and Protestants of the city. THE BAPTIST CHURCH is a small building in McMahon street, opposite the entrance to the Artillery Park, and was erected in 1854. THE FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH is a pretty little church situated in St. John street, and was erected in 1876. ST. MATTHEWS CHAPEL (EPISCOPAL) is also situated in St. John street, erected on the English burial ground, which hag long since be » closed. St. Matthews is built after the Gothic style, and is tastefully 43 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY, ornamented in its interior. During the last.4-'w years it has been considerably enlarged. There is another Episcopal chapel, St. Peter's, in St. Valier street, St. Koch, and the Mariners Chapel on Champlain street. . I , .11 «r. i * .( CHURCH AND CONVENT OF THE GREY SISTERS. This church is situated in St. Olivier street, but i so hemmed in by the other buildings of the Sisterhood that it is hardly discernible, and, moreover, it is without a steeple since its last des.ruction by fire. On the oc- casion of the burning of the Parliament Buildings, the sittings of the Chambers were held in this church, or were about to be held, when it, too, fell a prey to the flames, and Parliament was removed to the Music Hall* Grave suspicions were entertained at the time as to the cause of these two conflagrations. Hundreds of childn n are educated in the School. YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION. Just outside St, John's Gate is the Young Men's Christian Association building, the lower part of which is let as shops. In it are a library, readmg room and lecture hall. The Secretary of the Association is Mr, Cole, and the building is open to the public. JEKFRKY HALE HOSPITAL. JEFFREY HALF HOSPITAL 44 is situated opposite the Convent of the Grey Sisters, and was founded by the late JelTrev Hale, Fs(]., who passed his life in doing good. It is under the direction of a Board of Ciovernors. THE BROTHERS' SCHOOL is also situated on Callows' Hill, and has a very large attendance at a nominal rate of charges. LE BON PASTEUR AND OTHER RELIGIOUS ESTABLISHMENTS. The Church and Hospital of Le Bon Pasteur is situated on Lachevroti^re street. It is a refuge for lost women and a school of reform. St. John's Church in the Wiird of that name is being rebuilt on the old foundations, it having been destroyed by fire. In St. Roch there arc two Catholic churches, the Parish Church and the church of the Congregation, under the ministration of the Jesuits, both situate in St. Joseph street, in which also are several schools for the instruct- ion of girls. In St. Sauveur there are the Parish Church and large schools. The Hospital of the Sacred Heart of Jesus is situate near tl"ve River St. Charles, in St. Sauveur. if:: fill V. iili imM '* ^RiH> 'm\ 1 if I jSj i • *t; ,■''■ , GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. The Bellevue Convent is situate at St. Foy, and the Convent of Jesus Marie at Sillery. The*Finlay Asylum, of Gothic architecture, is situate on St. Foy road, just outside the toll-gate, and is a home for aged and infirm Protestants. On the Grand Allee, near the toll-gate, are three benevolent institutions — the Ladies' Protestant Home of the Church of England, Female Orphan Asy'um, and St. Bridget's Asylum, near which last is St. Patrick's Cemetery. Another Roman Catholic Church, Notre Dame" de la Grace is at Cap Blanc, for the use of the French- Canadians in that part. THE MARINE HOSPITAL. This magnificent building is situate on the banks of the St. Charles, in the northern part of St. Roch suburbs. It is built after the Ionic style of architecture, and is said to be copied from the temple of the Muses on the River Ilissus, near Athens. Its site is on the place called la Vacherie, on the opposite side of the river to which Jacques Cartier met Donnacona in 1535. The foundation stone was laid in 1832 by Lord Aylmer, then Governor of Lower Canada, and the building was com- pleted in 1834, at a cost of nearly $100,000. It has accomodation for over six hundred patients. The G^NEliAt HOSPITAL. ih THE GENERAL HOSPITAL, The General Hospital is one of the finest institutions Df the kind in Canada, or the States* It is situated on the south bank of the St. Charles, not far from the Ma* rine Hospital. The buildings are extensive, and with the gardens cover a large area. It was founded by Monseigneur de St. Valier, second Bishop of Quebec, as an asylum for incurable diseases^ In 1692, it was placed under the charge of the Hospitalibres Nuns, who in 1 701 constituted a separate body from their sisters of the Hotel-Dieu. Near the General Hospital is a wind-mill of a most old-fashioned order. It was used as a fort for the Convent.? On the opposite side of the river are immense vaults, used at the time of the French for storing pro- visions, ^ THE SKATING RINK. Just outside the city wall, on the Grand AWie is the Quebec Skating Rink,, supposed to be the finest on the Continent. It was finished in 1877, and opened in the winter of that year by Lieut-Governor Letellier de St. Just, on the occasion of a gr^nd fancy dress ball, several of which are given during the season. The A. Battery plays there in the afternoon of certain days of every week in the winter season. ■nMH ■li Wmmmm i ' ' i 47 GtHDE TO QUEBEC CITT. THE DEPARTMENTAL BUILDINGS^. The Departmental Buildings are on the north side of the Grand Allee, and form a magnificent pile. They are constnicted irt the modern style of ardiitecture, are four stories in height with a mansard roof and tower* at each corner. There are at present only the three sides of the square completed, the fourth, that intended for the Legislature having only the foundations laid : but it is expected that in the course of a year or so, this- part shall also be completed, when it will be one of the finest buildings on the continent. The venti"* 'on and drainage are almost perfect, being much superior in those respects to the buildings at Ottawa. Being erected on almost the highest part cf{ the city, the view from the roof and upper stories is unrivalled. In these buildings are contained all the Departments of the local government, which heretofore were scattered throughout the city. It has, however, hiffk doubted whether the government of the day was wise in erecting such expen- sive buildings, especially when thi province was heavily in debt and when it was certain, but a few years must elapse when legislatve union must render such buildings useless. Their erection, however, has greatly improved the neighborhood, which was formerly a disgrace to the city. THE DRILL SHED. This is by no means a magnificent building, erected on the south side of the Grand Allee, not far from the ': '\ Lacrosse grounds* 48 Departmental buildings, but it suffices for the object for which it was built, and has answered many other pur- poses. Besides being a drill shed, it was, after the destruction of the Montcalm Ward by fire, used as a refuge for the houseless, where they were fed for many weeks at the expense of the public and the charitably disposed. During the Provincial Exhibition of 1877 it was used for the reception of machinery and scientific mo- dels. Horticultural, poultry and dog shows have also been held there, and even a prayer meeting has sanctified the locality. LACROSSE GROUNDS, To the right of the Grand Allee is a large enclosure appropriated by the lovers of lacrosse, several clubs devoted to which game are in the city. THE HARBOR. The Harbor improvements are in the mouth of the St. Charles river and are well worth a visit. They are being constructed at the expense of the Dominion go- vernment and comprise an immense wharf running from the Gas wharf info the St. Lawrence where another wharf at right angles connects it with the old commis- siones wharf, thus enclosing an immense basin for shipping. 49 GUI HE TO QUEBTEC CTTY. QUEBEC GAOL. On the Plains of Abraham is the massive biiildi'ngv the Quebec Gaol, built some few years ago to replace that now occupied by the Morrin College and Literary and Historical Society. THE OBSERVATORY !|^ At a short distance further out on the Plains of Abraham is the Quebec Observatory, under the super- vision of Commander Ashe, R.N. Formerly the Quebec Turf Club held there races on the course, but they are now. transferred to the St. Charles course on the Little River road. THE CUSTOM HOUSE. Near the Commissfoners' Wharf is the Custom House a fine building of Doric architecture, built of cut stone and whose portico fronts the St. Lawrence with' steps- leading down to the water edge. It was built in 1854, consumed by fire in 1864 and shortly afterwards rebuilt. GRAND TRUNK and OTHER R.R. STATIONS. In the vicinity is the Grand Trunk Railway Station, the Ferry Steamer leaves for the station on the Levis side of the river. The same ferry conveys passengers to the Intercolonial station at Levis. Passengers by the Levis and Kennebec and Quebec Central railway cross the river by the Quebec and Levis fefry boats. The Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa and Occi- dental and the Lake St. John Railway stations are situa- THE GATES. 50 ted in St. Pai'^ "" eet near the foot of Palace hill near the Palais harbor. It is intended to have a station of the Q. M. O. and O. Railway built on the Commissioners' Wharf at deep water. THE GATES, Much that is interesting and ancient in Quebec has in the last few years disappeared. The old gates, which excited the wonder and curiosity of the traveller, have been levelled and the fortifications and walls of the city, which then bristled with cannons and were patrolled night and day by the vigilant sentinel, have changed their warlike appearance to peaceful prome nades. St. Louis and St. John's gates were the most ancient, having been erected in 1694 and rebuilt in 1791. The former has given place in our days to the Dufferin gate and its former zigzag approaches straightened to a broad thoroughfare, St, John's gate, w! *ch had formerly but one narrow archway, was also demolished and re- built in 1865. Palace gate was also erected under the French domination, was razed in 1791 by the English and replaced in 1831 by a handsome gate with three arches, which now has also disappeared. Hope gate was erected in 1786 by Col. Hope then commandant of the forces and administrator. It was also demolished in 1874. Prescott gate was erected in 1797 and has followed the fate of the others. In 1827, under the administration of the Earl of Dalhousie, were erected on the citadel, the Dalhousie and the chain gates. mm ^k l, I xc^ ^^^^^"""""^^is. W. McWILLIAM, fPl llll To His Excellency the Governor General of Canada and the Lieutenant Governor of the Province of Quebec. Well BMIsts, Suppers ant Evening Parties Served in the Latest Style and at Short Notice. no John §t., anl) 50 Jfabriquc §t 100 yards from French Cathedral. ISLAND OF ORLEANS FERRY. mm The magnificent new steamer " Orleans '* makes regular daily trips between the City and the Island of Orleans, touching at St Joseph de Levis. On these trips the stranger can have enchanting views of Quebec, Levis, the Island, Beauport and Montmorency Falls, The Island of Orleans is i^nowned as a delightful summer retreat, especially for those who find the sea air too bracing. The time table is published in the city papers, T. Baulieu. Thomas J. Malony, Advocate and Commissioner FOR ONTARIO, ei ABOVE MILLER & SONS' STATION ERV, QUEBKC C. E. HOLIWELL, STATIOJ^ER, . Printer, Bookbinder and Engraver, English and American News Depfft^ Opposite Post Office, '€|UEBK€« TP 'I! THE GENERAL TICKET OFFICE OPPOSITE St. Louis Hotel • ♦ » The only office in the City supplying Tic- kets by all Routes, Rail or Steamer at lowest prices. A choice of State Rooms on Steamers or Births in Sleeping Cars given from Diagrams seen in the office. Orders by Telephone promptly filled and information cheerfully given. Many advantages to be had at this office which cannot be obtained at Depot offices. ; ' Telegraph Office. THE ENVIRONS. It can be said of Quebec that the environs are not surpassed or even equalled in romantic beauty or pictu- resque wildness. One may take any standpoint in the city, and before him is a glorious panorama ; and at the end of nearly every street one may see a delightful vignette. BEAUPORT ASYLUM AND MONTMORENCY FALLS. Leaving the City and crossing the River St. Charles by Dorchester Bridge, the visitor will drive along the Beauport road and within two miles will reach the Beau- port Asylum, founded in 1845 ^y ^^^' Morrin, Douglas and Fremont, with the promise of the support of Lord Metcalfe and his government. Since that time, the es- tablishment has been vastly increased and improved ; there being the principal building, having two wings, another building separate from the main, and a sort of villa structure for convalescent patients. There are now over 900 inmates within its walls. After passing the Asylum the village of Beauport may be said to commence, and its houses and cottages line the road 55 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. for five miles, ending only at the river Montmorency. On the site of the village, or rather between it and the beach, was fought the battle of the 31st July 1759, between the English and French, in which the latter were victorious and the former lost 182 killed and 665 wounded and missing. The head quarters of Montcalm can be seen to the right after passing over the stream. After the taking of Quebec, the English avenged them- selves by sacking and firing not only the village of Beauport, but also those of L.Ange Gardien, Chateau Richer, St. Anne and Baie St. Paul and destroying all the crops found in them. THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCY. The Falls of Montmorency may be seen either from above or below. To view them from below, the visitor must descend what is called the zig-zag hill, which passes through Mr. Hall's property, and in doing so the visitor is reminded that the residence thereon was once occupied by the Duke of Kent, the Father of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. On reaching the foot of the hill we can pass along the beach, till we arrive, as it were, almost under- neath the avalanche of waters, while the spray there- fr6m descends in a sort of drizzling shower,, and through which, if the sun be shining, the brightiyhued rainbow can be seen bathing its colors in the frenzied cataract. The body of water, which from the height of 250 feet leaps its precipice, passes, it is said, through a subter- ranean passage, and rises in a tumultuous manner near THE FALLS OF MONTXroRENCY. 56 the end of the Island of Orleans and gaining the name of Le Taureaii, by boatmen considered a dangerous spot. The view above the Falls is taken from the apposite side, the visitor passing over the Montmorency ]3ridge, then through a field opposite the Hotel, and for which a charge is made, and down a stairway to a plat- form, which directly overlooks the Falls. The mad turbulence of the water and the deafening roar, which ever seems to increase, is almost bewildering, and the dizzy height at which one is placed causes a certain amount of uneasiness and sense of danger. There is wildnessall round, the high cliffs with overhanging trees and bushes and the violence of the rapids rivet the ima- gination with resistless fascination. On both sides of the river are the remnants of two towers, between which was suspended a bridge, but which fell about twenty five years ago, carrying with it an unfortunate country- man, his wife, child, horse and vehicle, whose remains were never afterwards discovered. THE NATURAL STEPS. A by-way road through the fields leads the visitor to the Natural Steps, which by some are considered the grandest feature of the scene. Nothing more wild and wierd can be imagined than this mad river with perpen- dicular precipites on each side, clothed with tufts of shrubbery, and whose summits are fringed with over- hanging pines, watching down as it were on the threaten- ing waters, now leaping over huge rocks and forming furious cascades, anon seething, moody, silent pools »; 57 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. whose blachness makes night look pale. Here the wa- ters eddy round in ever-quickening circles, raising in their wrath bubbles and frothy atoms to the surface, and suddenly leap onwards beneath the overhanging cliffs. Where the visitor stands, shady nooks hidden in ferns and wild plants invite to rest, while the peculiar forma- tion of the rocks serve as tables for pic-nic collations. In the summer, these Natural Steps are the resort of pleasure parties, and the followers of Izaak Walton can tempt from the angry torrent the most dqlicious speckled trout. Near by is what is called the Fairy River, which mysterioulsly disappears beneath the earth and again as mysteriously re-appears. It is also called TEau Tenue. L'ANGE GARDIEN. The village of L'Ange Gardien is about four miles beyond Montmorency and as above stated was destroyed by Wolfe's soldiery, after the battle of Beauport in 1759. There are some good fishing streams at a short distance, and in the fall some snipe and partridge shooting. CHATEAU RICHER. This village is about five miles further down. In the fruit season the orchards of I'Ange Gardien are so laden that along the road the green color of the trees are hidden by the purple of the plum and the rosea ^^ of the apple. ST. ANNE. ST. ANNE. 58 I At about four miles distance to the south of Chateau Richer, are the beautiful Falls called Sault h la Puce, which are not only enchanting in their scenery but abound in trout. The Chateau Richer beach is famous as a snipe ground, and in September and October num- berless sportsmen congregate here to slaughter these birds. THE SHRINE AND FALLS OF ST. ANNE. All the distance of about twc.ity miles below Quebec is the village of Ste. Anne de Beauprt?, sometimes called Ste. Anne du Nord. and always called La Iwnne Ste. Anne^ to whom is consecrated the parish church, erected about three years ago by the Pope into a shrine of the first order, in which is a fine painting by the famous artist LeBrun, Ste, Anne and the Virgin, presented by M. deTracy, viceroy of New France, in 1666, to the church, for benefits received. The festival day of this saint is the 26 of July, at which time thousands of pilgrims pro- ceed not only by steamer and carriage, but on foot, to this holy shrine, many walking the whole distance from Quebec to the church as a penance, or in performance of vows. The church is a new building, the old one having been found too small for the accommodation of the crowds of pilgrims who resorted there. In it are placed thousands of crutches left by those who departed after being cured of lameness and other maladies by the Bonne Ste. 59 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. -.iTii?. Anne, whose praises are world wide ; for hither congre- gate daily thousands of pilgrims from all parts of the con- tinent to be cured of their infirmities deposited in the sanc- tuary is a holy relic, being a finger bone of the saint her- self, on kissing'which the devotee is immediately relieved of all wordly ills and misfortunes. Wonder begins and misbelief vanishes on gazing at the piles of dutches ; there one beholds unmistakable evidence of ihe unli- mited medicinal power of the mother of the Virgin. Daily are the proofs of this power ; the stranger can see with his own eyes, the decrepit, the halt, the sore, the lame, the wounded carried into the sanctuary and depart therefrom, after kissing the holy relic, cured and whole. Many are the scenes here witnessed of the dis- pairing filled with renewed hope and the feeble and faint glad again with strength and health. Countless are the anecdotes of the hopelessly blind and lame re- turning to their friends with sight and firm limbs, leaving behind them their bandages and crutches. Incredulity vanishes before such evidence, and the sceptic leaves the shrine of St. Anne with conviction deeply settled in his soul. Within three miles of the village are the Falls of Ste. Anne, which consist of seven cascades, one of which can be leaped by those of strong nerves and sinews, but powerful as Ste. Awaq is, and devoted as she is to miracles, it is doubtful whether even she could save the unfortunate who misses his kap and is plunged into the chasm. , The fishing above and below the Falls is ver}' good for both salmon and trout, and the scenery is of that wild ISLAND OF ORLEANS. 69 congre- he con- le sanc- int her- elieved ins and Itches ; e unli- Virgin. ;er can le sore, ry and red and the dis- )le and juntless ame re- , leaving :redulity : leaves settled are the des, one ves and oted as he could plunged ity good that wild description generally characteristic of the Laurentian ranges. ISLAND OF ORLEANS. The Island of Orleans, or the Isle de Bacchus, as it was called at first, or Minego by the Indians, or Isle des Sorcieres by the credulous, is reached by ferry from Quebec, and is a favorite retreat of Quebecers. Its history is replete with stirring events. Wolfe took possession of it in 1759, and his troops ransacked it from end to end. The villages of St. Pierre, Ste. Famille, St. Jean, St. Laurent St. Fran9ois and St. Fer^olareall flourishing, and their churches date from the old times, or have been replaced by modern edifices. A new steamer built last winter called the *' Orleans " runs daily between Quebec and the Island for the conve- nience of strangers. The views of Quebec and the Falls, in fact of all the surroundings, are very fine, while the delightful walks and drives through the Island woods and along the beach are a constant source of pleasure. Bathing is also much indulged in, and, although neither trout nor salmon are to be caught, there is a great deal of fishing and bass, white fish and smelt are taken in myriads. Those who find the air of the Lower St. Lawrence too bracing resort to the Island for a milder atmosphere and many fine villai: and cottages evidence the prefe- rence it enjoys with the public. h;^ 6i GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. ?;!¥;' CHARLESBOURG. Leaving Dorchester Bridge by the left, the first place of interest is Ringfield, the residence of Mr. Park, not far from which Jacques Cartier wintered with his three vessels, **La Grande Hermine," "La Petite Her- mine,'* and L'Em^rillon, ' from 15th September, 1535 until 6th May, 1536, and which place he named St. Croix having erected in the vicinity a high cross as a sign of possession by the King of France, a painting of which is to be seen in the picture gallery of the Laval Univer- sity. A few years ago, some remains of Jacques Cartier's vessels were found, and at the present day are easily discernible the mounds and earthworks thrown up by the little army of brave adventurers. About two miles from the Bridge is the Gros Pin Cemetery set apart in 1847 for the emigrants and others who died in the hospitals of fever and other conta- gious diseases. At the distance of four miles, on the same road, is the beautiful village of Charlesbourg, in whose centre is the parish church. In this Canadian village are real old country lanes lined with hedges, behind which are English-looking cottages ; and one instinctively seeks for primroses, forget-me-nots and anemones. At the time of the siege, Charlesbourg was the refuge of the priests and non-combatants of the city of Quebec, and hither flocked the habitants of the Island of Orleans and the different villages of the North Shore, whose houses had been pillaged, and whose substance had been destroyed. n i i m CHATEAU BIGOT. 6« \e first . Park, ith his ;e Her- > 1535 . Croix sign of which LJniver- [acques day are thrown •OS Pin d others r conta- road, is ;entre is ire real lich are eeks for le refuge Quebec, Orleans , whose ice had A convent erected by Mr. Muir. formerly Clerk of the House of Assembly, is near Charlesbourgh. where instruction is given to young children. CHATEAU BIGOT. To the east of Charlesbourg, at a distance of about four miles., is the Chateau Bigot, or Beaumanoir. as it is sometimes called, or otherwise The Hermitage ; the romantic history of which is somewhat as follows : — At the foot of La Montague des Ormes are the ruins of Chateau Bigot, ruins which can now but faintly give an idea of what the original building was, of its gran- deur, of its extent, of its secret passages, or its form. Two gables and a centre wall, or rather the remnants of them, are visible, and from the fact of there being a sort of clearance, now partly overgrown, we may presume that there was a garden. Ensconsed in the midst of a forest on one of the slopes of the Laurentides are these shreds of the past and one can not but be impressed with deep melancholy as his eyes rest upon this deserted spot and his fancy repeoples the shattered halls and cham- bers with the giddy and guilty throngs which once crowded them. History has given some few indistinct data, and imagination has done the rest in this story of secret sin. The Intendant Bigdl^ whose profligacy and extra- vagance were unlimited, and whose means were equal to their requirements, constructed this chateau in the wilds of the mountains, and hither, with companions as ..t 6s GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. graceless as himself, he was wont to adjourn to indulge m every excess of dissipation. The Intendant was at man fond of field sports, and the chateau was the head- quarters of his hunting expeditions. It is said that oi> one of these he lost hi» way^and met a young Algonquin squaw (rf* singular beauty, who led him to the chateau y but its strong doors were closed against her egress, and she remained within its walls either a prisoner to love or to fate. But the Intendant was a man 6f mark in the colony, a man to satisfy the longings of any ambi- tious girl who might wish for power, and such a one there was in the city of Quebec, who was determined to have the Intendant as her lord, that she, as his wife, might rule in New France, and punish those who bad slighted her. Such a one, it is said by Mr. Kirby, in his historical romance, *'The Golden Dog," was Ange- lique Des Meloises ; and she had heard of the Indian maid at Beaumanoir. Murder is a trifle to such natures as hers, wholly absorbed by ambition ; and one night a piercing cry was heard echoing through the halls and corridors of Beaumanoir, and Caroline, the unhappy Algonquin, was found stabbed and dead. Not long since was to be seen her gravestone in a vault of Beau manoir, with but the letter C. engraved thereon. It js said that the unhappy Caroline was not of full Indian race, but that her father, by carriage, was an officer of high rank in the army of France. Such is the story, not the first nor the last, connected with this place, which has been replete with guilt and ciiused much sorrow. •LAKE BEAUPORT. 64 Mr. Anaedee Papineau* and Mr. Marraette, in his romance "L'IntenClant Bigot," have given sketches of the tale, j- ^ . Ascending the hill in rear of the ruins of the Chateau, the visitor will be recompensed by a magnificent view. To the west is the »'alley of the St. Charles, to the south ^he city of Quebec and Point Levis, and to the east the Island of Orleans, the villages of Beauport, L'Ange Gardien, Chateau Richer, St. Anne, and the River St. Lawrence, for the distance of nearly one hundred miles, a panorama of incomparable beauty. LAKE BEAUPORT. ContinuinjT alon^ the Charlesbourg highway, after leaving the village, for about four miles, we turn into a less macadamized, but much more delightful, road. The sweet smell of the woods is a welcome, the song of birds hastens you on, and the wild, uncultured country charms you, till you feel in an ecstasy with the whok scene , when suddenly you arrive at an opening in the forest, and a fairy lake, surrounded by high mountains, appears before you, and ere your wonder has had per- fect consciousness, you are driven up to the Lake Beauport Hotel, a country house with a verandah, in front and gardens of flowers and kitchen vegetables in rear, where fishing-rods lean lazily against the gable, and baskets of speckled trout, v.Tapped carefully in cooling leaves, are placed in shady nooks, and trim country lasses come to relieve you of wraps and impe- 65 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. dimenta ; and the glorious lake shines before you like a silver shield, and you iniagine that fairy boats are gliding^ on its bosom ; but they are siirply happy people like yourself who have come out to see this sans-souci in the wood, tliis nepmthe among the mountains^ this dolce far nienie on the bosom of a lake where the flies never bite the fish ever rise, and IJttle black-eyed gamins paddle you around in canoes just for a song. Go out with your rod, look at the towering mountains, and the woodland nooks and shady little coves, where trout jump about like sprites, aiid come back with a basketful, and have your dinner at the cottage hotel, with wild strawberries and cream, and then return to town and say what you think of Lake Beauport. Ml LORETTE. The Indian village of Lorette is nine miles from town, and can be reached by the Charlesbourg road, turning off to the left at the village of Charlesbourg, or by the the Little River road, which divides at Scott's Bridge, one branch going by the north and the other by the south side of the River St. Charles, or the CabirCou- bat of the olden time, both rejoining at the distance of about three miles. On the south branch is the French Catholic Cemetery, and beyond it the St. Charles race course. Lorette is situated on a hill, down which rusl"'es the River St. Charles, forming in the centre of the village the charmingly beautiful Falls of Lorette. A walk has been made in a highly artistic manner through 1.0KETTK. 66 the most striking parts of the vicinity, so that all the beauties of these Falls can be admired. It has more the character of a cascade, and there are delightful pieces of scenery above and below, and the river itself is a wild torrent, in which at one time salmon were taken. In the eastern part of the village reside the remnants of the once powerful Huron tribe, now either coalesced with the French, or rapidly disappearing^ A walk through this village brings the young savages out by scores, the youthful chiefs desiring to shoot for coppers and the forest maidens offering tobacco pouches, knife sheaths and all sorts of Indian work, some of which are very beautiful, and if bargained for properly can be had at a cheap rate, for they always ask their prices, but take their value. On a Sunday it would be difficult to tell a squaw from a French-Canadian, were it not for the dark eyes, olive complexion and straight hair. The Minnehahas of to-day love their silks and satins and last fashions as weiras any demoiselle from the city. Their houses are constructed in modem style and furnished neatly, but there can generally be detected a smell of either caribou or moose skin, and Indian work is sure to be prominent. To the north of the village, passing through the In- dian portion, you proceed to what is called the Aqueduct. It is the reservoir from which the City of Quebec is supplied with water. Take a canoe and paddle up this fairy river, for it is full of lovely spots where water sprites and naiads would delight to dwell Under arches of -i I mi 67 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY^ } drooping boughs yoa glide, and smothered with the de^ licious aroma of pine and fir trees, and your ears ring- ing with the songs of birds, yorr press evet forward to* see if there is no end to the enchantmeiit, atid if a lover of the rod, whip up the stream- and hook the golderr trout from the surface. Near by is Castorville, once a: dam of beavers, the seat of th-e Hon. Mr. Panet, a verita- ble paradise in the primeval forest, the perfect ideaf of a picnic ground, where in the heat of summer, under the shade cf giant trees, we may "recline like gods to- gether, forgetful of mankind." A paddle up the strean> will bring you to Lake St. Charles^. LAKE ST. CHARLES is another favorite resort of the citizens of Quebec, andl is situated about twelve miles distant, and where the hotel, a habitai.'/s house, is kept by Mr. Verret, and boats can be had for a row on the Lake, which is about six miles long. It has not the beauty of Lake Beauport. Its shores are not so bold, but there is a quiet, pleasant feeling in paddling about Lake St Charles. It has a more contented, more home-like look than the exciting charms of the other. The one is a quiet, placid, blondev full of affection ; the other is an impetuous brunette, burning with passion and desire. LAKE CALVAIRE. or Lake St. Augustin, is about twelve miles from Que- bec, to the north of Cap Rouge. On one side of it THE GRANDE ALLEE, ETC. 6S stretch to the water's edge cultivated fields and pastures with idling cattle ; on the other the wild bush. The Lake IS not renowned for its fishing, as no trout are to be caught in it, and it has an unenviable reputation among bathers, whom it invariably attacks with cramps and if possible drags to a watery grave. It is simply a beautiful sheet of water. In the fall there are snipe, woodcock and partridge to be bagged in the vici- nity, and this is enough to atone for its other deficiencies. St. Augustin church is near by and is worth a visit. THE GRANDE ALLEE AND ST. FOY ROADS AND PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. There is no more beautiful or interesting drive than that out by the Grande Allee and in by the St. Foy road. On leaving where the St. Louis Gate once stood, the visitor will notice these buildings, already mentioned — the Quebec Skating Rink, the Departmental Buildings,' the Drill Shed, the Martello Towers, the Church of England Female Orphan Asylum, Ladies' Protestant Home, Quebec Observatory and the St. Bridget's Asylum, and on passing the latter place the visitor will be upon the ground whereon the centre of the French line of battle stood, the left wing extending towards the St>. Lawrence an-d the right to the St. Charles valley, down to which they retreated after the defeat. After passing the Toll Gate for about a hundred yards, the visitor will be upon the ground occupied by the English centre, the ;l> >■ 69 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITV. left wing extending towards the St. Charles and the right towards the St. Lawrence. A monument is erect- ed to the memory of Wolfe on the spot where he fell^ a handsome pillar of granite, surmounted by a helmet and shield, and bearing the following inscription : **Thts pillar was erected by the British army in Canada, A. D., 1849. Hi» Excellency Lieutenant-General Sir Benjamin d'Urban being cnimander of the forceti, to replace that erected by Guvernor*General Lord Aylttier, in iSja^ which was broken and defaced and is deposited beneath. The whole is surrounded by a neat iron railing. f SPENCER WOOD. At the turn of the road is Spencer Wood, the resi- dence formerly of the Governor-General of Canada, and now that of the Lieutenant Governor of the Province of Quebep. It is a beautiful structure, and its paintings^ statuary, vineries, greenhouses, gardens and shaded lawns are unequalled in the Province. The grounds are eighty acres in extent, and reach the summit of the pre- cipice overlooking Wolfe's Cove, through which runs the little stream St. Denis, by whose ravine Wolfe reach- ed the heights. At different times resided here the Prince of Wales, Prince Alfred and Prince Arthur. WooDFiELD Cemetery, Beyond Spencer Wood is the Irish Catholic Ceme- tery, lately purchased for that purpose from the Messrs. Gibb. It is a splendid property of about 80 acres, in the highest state of cultivation, and beautified by avenues MOUNT UKRMON CKMETARV. 70 glades and vales, shady nooks and perfumed woods, a fit home for those who take the last quiet sleep of death. Mount Hermon Cemetkry. lues Still further on is the Mount Hermon Cemetery, the Protestant burial ground. This ha< been established many years, and in it are very fine monuments of exqui- site workmanship by Quebec artists, and some from the United States, and even England. On one spot there are the graves of over two hundred immigrants who perished by the burning of the steamer ''Montreal." They had but arrived from the old country, and on the threshold of the new met with the most frighful of deaths. The village opposite these cemeteries is Bergerville. The Church of St. Columba and the Convent of Je- sus Marie stand on the heights above Sillery, and on the beach below is erected a small chapel. Some years ago the remains of the Jesuit priest Emmanuel Masse were found in the cave beneath Sillery, and a monument to his memory was erected. It is twenty feet high, and has four marble tablets with inscriptions. On this spot Emmanuel Masse was buried in 1646, and a church was erected there by the Comman- der of Sillery in 1677. All along the Grande All^e, the view of the St. Lawrence, the heights of Levis and the Laurentian Range, is captivating, and turns in the road exhibit most beautiful vistas. It GUIDE TO gUEBEC CITY, l*'IH< About five miles beyond Cap Rouge is the deserted Church of St. Augustin built in 1648, now in ruins on the beach, in reference to which is a legend that the devil in the shape of a horse assisted in the construction This horse was continually kept bridled and employed in carting the stones of immense size, till one day a work- man carelessly took off his bridle to give him a drink, when he immediately disappeared in a cloud of burning sulphur. Descending by the road leading to the St. Foy church the extended view of the St. Charles valley strikes one with delight. The visitor may continue the drive, if he so please, to Cap Rouge and turn then into the St. Foy road. Forty miles to the east and continu- ing till it end at Cap Tourmente, forty miles to the west the ranges of mountains form a magnificent back-ground to a variegated panorama of villages, churches, farm- houses, forest, river, stream, hill and cultivated plain, which never tire the eye. The valley of the St. Charles is the richest in the province, and the visitor may judge for himself. In the end of summer, acres of yellow fields stretch before the eye, and pastures teem with cattle. The river St. Charles is seen winding its intri- cate course through forest and field, losing itself finally in the Great St. Lawrence, and towards its mouth the populous suburbs of St. Roch are alive with their industries and manufactures. To the north of St. Foy road is the Belmont Catholic Cemetery, and near by is the Belmont Inebriate Asylum POTXT LEVrS. U erted IS on ; the ction loyed kvork- Irink, lining Foy valley ie the 1 into mtinu- e west round • farm- plain, larles judg3 ^'ellow n with intri- itself nouth their Ltholic •• sylum kept by Mr. Wakeham. The building was once occu- pied by General Montgomery, as was also Holland House near the city, the property of Judge Okill Stuart. At about one mile distant from the city is the monument erected by the St Jean Baptiste Society to the brave who fell at the battle of the Plains in 1760. The mon- ument is of iron on a stone base, and surmounted by a statue of Bellona, the gift of Prince Napoleon. Four bronze cannons are placed at each corner of the pedestal. The monument bears the following inscription : Aux braves de 1760, Erigc par la Societd St. Jean HuptUtc dc Quebec, i860. On the right side are the arms of England and the name of Murray, then governor of Quebec. On the left side is the name of Levis, who commanded the French, and the arms of old France. On the opposite side is a bas relief of Dumont's Mill and the arms of Canada. This monument was inaugurated with great ceremony on the 19th of October, 1862, by Lord Monck, then Governor-General of Canada, and an eloquent discourse was given on the occasion by the Hon. P. J. O. Chau- veau. POINT LEVIS. A visit to Levis is interesting. Not long since an encampment of Indians was located at the place now called St. Joseph de Levis, and the citizens and strangers were then wont to make excursions to interview these dusky roamers. In rear of the Town of Levis are con- structed three Forts, for the protection landwards of the ■ I •I i'i n wii 73 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. position. They are of triangular formation, their bases facing the city and consisting simply of a wall, without any defence except the ditch, leaving it open to be bat- tered by the guns of the Citadel in the event of occupa- tion by au enemy. The two other sides are strongly loop holed casements, protected by a glacis, and having loop holed caponnieres at the angles to sweep the ditch and which are reached J:)y subterranean passages. The ditches all round the forts are twenty feet deep by about forty feet in width and is crossed at only one point by a draw bridge, which is removed at will. Each fort contains at least 01)6 large well and has accommodation for about four hundred men. Number o.ie, which is situated in rear of the Grand Trunk Station, is altogether built of stone, while the exterior facings of the casements of num- bers 2 and 3 are of brick. The magazines are two in number and are built to contain a large quantity of pow- der. The present armament of each fort consists of but oae pivot gun, a seven inch breach loading Armstrong, throwing a projectile of 120 lbs., but at very short notice the three forts could be completely armed from the vast stores in the Citadel. These forts cost the English Government about $1,000,000. in the lower portion of the town is the Market Hall, the Lauzon Hotel, Hayes' Hotel, and towards the west, what is called South Quebec, is the station of the Grand Trunk Railway, near which is the Victoria Hotel. The cattle sheds are within a short distance of the railway station, and are very commodious and well conducted, and are THE CHAUDIERE FAI-LS. 74 bases without •e bat- ccupa- ly loop ,g loop ch and ditches rty feet I draw ,ains at • about ated- in built of ofnum- two in of pow- ;s of but istrong, t notice ;he vast English lall, the ;st, what i Trunk le cattle J station, and are located in Fort No. i. Nearly opposite the city is being built the graving dock. THE CHAUDIERE FALLS. At a short distance from South Quebec are the Chau- diere Falls, which may be reached either by train, steamer or cab. These Falls are somewhat similar to those of Lo- rette, on a larger scale, the depth being about one hun- dred and thirty feet. The visitor may at the same time chance to witness the venturesome experiments of rafts- men on the saw-logs, which are tumbled over the Falls, and which collect in groups above the rapids in a locked state; when it is imperative on the men to loose them from the difficulty. Many a mishap has occurred in these endeavors, and it is often the value of a raftsman's life to break a jam on the Chaudiere River. Down the valley of this river swarmed the hardy volunteers under Arnold, but many had to succumb before they arrived at the mouth of the Chaudiere, and many more had to regret that they ventured into such an under- taking. The Church of New Liverpool is famed for its fres- coes and paintings, and in the scenery of Etchemin the visitor can find much that never before gratified his eye. I'he romance of history is iiovering around the whole of this neighborhood. • i .11 I ■■ ■f- 1 n G. & C. HOSSACK, GROCERS, COE. OF GARDEN AND ANNE STS. OPPOSITE THE RUSSELL HOUSE, Upper Town, Old Market Place, OXJEBEC Fishing and Picnic Parties supplied. J. WILLIAMS, PHYSIOAVMICAL HAIR CUTTER, Capillary Jlbribger anb Crnnium JHunipulator, Studio: GENEEAL MOKTOALM'S old HEAD QUABTEBS Corner of ST. LOUIS and GARDEN STS. Private rooniH for Liadies and Children's Hair Cutting. PATRONIZED BY J!WKSM5R. THEIR EXCELLENCIES, THE EARL AND COUNTESS OF DUFFERIN. J. MAHONY, BOOT AND SHOE MAKER. 11-- St. JOHIV STREET,- 14^ UPPER TOWN. QUEBEC. yU A ^. 14 La Roche &Co. (Successors to John Musson & Co.) Oijposito I'ost Office, QUEllKC, 'Mm $ Importers and Dealers in Drugs, Chemicals, Patent Medecines, Perfumery and Surgical Instruments, ENGLISH, FRENCir, AND AMERICAN Garden, Field and Flower Seeds. Also Manufacturers of Soda, Potash & Seltzer Waters, Belfast Ginger Ale, Lemonadei and Nectar, Ohampagne 0:der. Oboice Fruit Syrnps, Factory, 87 St. Patrick Street ESTABLISHED I850. J. DARLINGTON & SON, CiYiL & Military Tailors And In^porter of GENTS FURNISHING, OPPOSITE THE POST OFFICE, d^aebec Oloffcc €mpo vium. ALEXANDER ERASER, Com of ST. VALIER ai ST. NICHOLAS STS. FAMILIES SUPPLIED. Picnic, Fishing, Sporting and Yachting Parties outfitted. Always on hand a supply of Old Government Java Coffee green, roasted and ground. Coffee ground and roasted to order. QUEBEC Mountain Hill House, 94, 96 :e tvhifh has been clescril>ed as tlie Geneva of Canada. It is about thirty miles in length and from four miles and less- in breadth and on it are mai>y del j;:!;lilful Is^lands. I'hc Owl's Head 2500 feet in height. "Elei>li3i>tis and other mountains throw their grand outlines against the wes- tern sky. The beautiful villages of Magog and Georgc- ville adorn its banks, and trout, lunge, pickerel and white fish are taken in its waters-. i; FISHING. In the vicinity of Quebec are many lakes vvefl knowiT among the followers of Isaac Walton, where trout, pike,- funge and white fish may be caught, an>ong which may be mentioned, lakes Berr)mnn, B^auport, St. Charles, St. Joseph, Sept lies, Snow Lake, Jacques Cartier, St. Joa- chim, Fairy and Daker's Lake, all within an easy dis- tance of the city excepting Lakes Snow and Jacques Cartier. For those fond of the gun, the beaches of Chateau Richer and St. Anne afford excellent sport for snipe, while throughout Stoneham, and Lorette, and Cap Rouge, partridge, and wo :)dcock abound. In the north are found Caribou in the winter and bears are often met with in the -iame localities, while loups-cerviers are frequent visitors in the neighborhood of the city. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS PROTESTANT CHURCHES. Baptist Church— Rev. Mr. Adams-Service commences (Morning) ti.oo, and (Evening) 7.00. Wednesday, 8.00 p m. McMahon street, U. T. Church OF THE Holy Trinity, Cathedral, (Church of England) — Right Rev. Bishop Williams, D.D , and Rev. G. V. Housman, Rev. C. W. Rawson, M. A. Service commences (Morning) 11 o'clock, and (Evening) 7. Garden street, U. T. ChalmersChurch— Rev. C.W.Matthews, D.D. Service commences (Morning) 11 o'clock, and (Evening) 7. Head of St. Ursule street, U. T. French Protestant Church — Rev. Mr. Allard. Service commences (Morning) 10.30 o'clock, and (Evening) 7. St. John Street, without. Methodist Church-Rcv. A. B. Chambers-Service com- mences (Morning) at 11 o'clock, and (Evening) at 7 o'clock. Wednesday, 7.30 p.m. Friday, (prayer meeting), 7.30 p.m. Corner St. Stanislas and Dau- phine streets, U- T. Scandinavian Church — Rev. Sathere, Cap Blanc. St. Andrew's Church — (Church of Scotland) Rev. J. J. Cook, D.D. — Service commences (Morning) II o'clock, and (Evening) 7. St. Andrew street, U. T. 87 GUIDli TO gUEIJEC CITY. )M St. Matthew's Church (Church of England) — Rev. Charles Hamilton, M. A., Rector. Service com- mences (Morning) at 10.30 o'clock, (Afternoon) at 4, and (Evening) at 7. St. John street, without. St. Michael's Church, (Church of England) — Rev. A. A. Von Iffland, Rector. Service commences (Mor- ning 1 1 o'clock, and (Afternoon) 4. Sillery Heights, Cap Rouge Road. St. Paul's Church (Mariners), (Church o^ England) Rev. T. Richardson — Service commences (Morning) at 10.30 o'clock, and (Evening) 7. Champlain street. St. Peter's Church (Church of England) — Rev. M. M. Fothergill — Service commences (Morning) 10.30 o'clock, and (Evening) 7. St. Valier street, St. Roch. Trinity Church (Church of England) — Rev, R^ Ker. Service commences (Morning) 1 1 o'clock, (P>ening) 7. St. Stanislas street, U. T. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES. Basilica — Rev. Mr. J. Auclair — Morning 9.30, After- noon 2.30. Market Square. Church of the Congregationists — Rev. Ph. Lessard Service commences (Morning) 6.30 o'clock and 9.30. (Afternoon) 2 o'clock and 4. Corner St. Joseph and Caron streets, St. Roch. Church or the Good Shepherd — Rev. Mr. Blais. Service commences (Morning) 6.30, (Evening) 5. Lachevroti^re street. Church of Notre Dame des Victoires — Rev. Mr. Belanger. Service commences (Morning) 6.30. Notre Dame street. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES. 88 >lais. ;) 5. Mr. .30. Church of Sisters of Charity — Rev. Mr. Bonncau. Service commences (Morning) 6, (Afternoon) 4. Corner Richelieu and Glacis streets. CoNGRp:GATioNAL--Rev. Mr. Sache, Superior. Service commences (Morning) 6.30, (Afternoon) 5. Corner D'Auteuil and Dauphin streets, U. T. General Hospital — Rev. L. Hamelin. Service com- mences (Morning) 5. (Afternoon) 2. Hotel Dieu — Rev. Mr. Beaulieu. Service commences (Morning) 6, (Afternoon) 2. Notre Dame de la Garde — Rev. A. Go^bout, Pastor. Diamond Harbor. St. Patrick's — Rev. Loewekamp, C. SS. R Service commences (Morning) 10, (Evening) 7.30 Mc- Mahon stre et, U. T. St. Roch — Rev. F. X. Gosselin. Service commences (Morning) 9.30, (Afternoon) 2. St. Joseph street St. Sauveur — Rev. A. Tortel. Service commences (Morning) 9.30, (Afternoon) 2. Boisseauville. Ursulines — Rev. G. Lemoine. Service commences (Morning) 6.15, (Afternoon) 2. The Roman Catholic churches and convents are open daily. GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT, f Lieutenant Governor's office — Departmental Buildings, South Wing, ist stairs. Grande Alice. Agriculture and public works — Simeon Lesage, assistant commissioner, ist flat South ^V^ing, 64 Grande Allee. Auditor's office — Gaspard Drolet, provincial auditor, ist flat North and West Wing, 141 St. Augustin and St. Julia Streets. I*! [ii I i ^ I' 89 GUIDE TO QUhlJEC CITY. Cadastre ofnce — Pierre L. Morin, geometer, 3rd flat West Wing, 141 St. Augustiii. Crown lands — Eugene E. Tach6, assistant commissioner 2nd and 3rd flats West Wing, 141 St. Augustin. Executive council. — Gustave Grenier, deputy clerk. 2nd flat South Wing, 64 Grande AlMe. Government Railway office. — Edward Moreau, secretary, ist flat West Wing, 141 St. Augustin. Government school of Navigation — William C. Seaton, professor. 3rd flat South Wing, 64 Grande Allee. Laiv officers of the crown. — Joseph A. Defoy, assistant, 2nd flat West Wing, 141 St. Augustin. Legislative assembly. — Louis Delorme, clerk of the house, Parliament buildings, 1-3-5 Mountain hill. Legislative council. — George B. DeBourcherville, clerk, Pa/liament buildings. 1-3-5 Mountain hill. Library of Parliament. — Pamphile LeMay, librarian, Parliament buildings, 3 Mountain hill. Marine and fisheries. — John U. Gregory, agent, 1 01-103 Champlain. Provincial registrar. — Jean Langelier, deputy. 3rd flat South Wing, 64 Grande Allee. Provincial secretary. — Phillipe J. Jolicoeur, assistant se- cretary. 2nd flat West Wing, 141 St. Augustin. Public instruction — Honorable Gedeon Ouimet, super- intendent. 2nd and 3rd flats, North Wing, St. Julia. Queen's printer office. — Charles F. Langlois, Queen's printer, ist flat North Wing, St. Julia. Treasurer. — Henry T. Machin, assistant provincial trea- surer, ist flat North <& West Wings, 141 St. Au- gustin and Julia. Custom House - - - - Custom House Wharf. THE BANKS. 90 ; se- Weights and Measures - - - St. Anno Street. Supervisor of Cullers' Office - Sault-au-Matelot St. Quebec Exchange - - - - Arthur Street. Quebec Harbour Commissioners, 122 Dalhousie Street* Government Immigration Office, Champlain Street. BANKS. Bank of British North America (Branch), 124 Peter Street. Bank of Mon real (Branch), corner of Peter and Arthur Streets, Banque Nationale, 77 Peter Street. Quebec Bank, • ^ no Peter Street. Union Bank of Lower Canada, 54 Peter Street. Quebec Notre Dame Savings Bank: Head Office, 23 John Street (within). Branch " 97 St. Joseph St., St. Roch. Levis. Union Bank, (Savings Branch,) 9 St. Louis Street. Merchants* Bank (Branch), 79 Peter St. Credit Foncier Franco-Canadien, i Union Bank Cham- bers, 56 Peter Street. THE COURTS. Court of Queen's Bench, St. Louis Street. Superior Court, ' Circuit Court, • - Vice Admiralty Court, Police Court, " Recorder's Court, ** u (( u ti i( u n it (f Qt OUIDK TO QUEP.RC CITY. CONSULATES. AuoENTlNK Repuhltc — Joliii Laiid, 113 Peter St. Bi.LciUM. — L G. M. J. I>ols, consul general, 48 Des Carrieres St. Chili and Pkru. — John Laird, 113 Peter St. Denmark. — G. T. Pemberton, consular agent, 125 11 n Peter St. France. — Monsieur le Comte de Ses Maisons, 54 St. Louis, German Empire. — Chs. Pitl, 61 Dalhousie. Montevideo. — C P. Champion, 66 Peter St. Netherlands. — C. J. Johnsen, 125 Peter, St. Norway and Sweden. — Wm.A. Schwartz, Dean's build- ing, 161 Peter St. Portugal. — F. Carbray, consul; Commercial Chambers 139 Peter St. Spain. — Son Excellence Monsieur le Comte de Premio- Keal, consul general for the Confederation of Canada, and British and French possessions in North America. Monsieur le Commandeur Don Silverio Suarez, Vice- Consul. Don Ricardo de la Cueva, Chancellor office: 38 St Louis Street. Italy. — consular agent, 139 Peter St. United States. — Hon. J. S. Wasson, 59 D'auteuil. I TIIIC DISTAMCES FROM QUEFiEC. 92 TABLK OF DISTANCES FROM QUFBEC, MILES. Ancienne Lore tte, from French Church 8 IMains of Abrahnin 1} Spencer Wood 2^^ Mount Hernion Cemetery 3,^- Col. Rhodes' Farm 3f Cap Rouge, by St. Foy Road 8]- *• St. Louis 8i St. FoyChurch ^]: Drive round by St. Louis and St. Foy Roads i6| . Lake Calvai»e loj- Lorette and Falls lo:^ Lake St. Charles. i5|- Lake Beauport 15I Chateau Bigot, or the Hermitage 8 Montmorency Falls and^Natural Steps 8} — 9.^ L'Ange Gardien 11 Chateau Richer 16 St. Anne, by boat 2d " road 25 Falls of St. Anne 28 Island of Orleans 4 The Forts of Levis, No. i, from G. T. R. Station, Levis f The Forts of Levis, No. 3, from No. i, about 2 Chaudi^re Falls, by rail from G. T. R 8 Pont Rouge, Jacques Cartier River, by rail 25 1; In m I: \l j i 1 93 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. Shawenegcin Falls, Three Rivers' road 78 Three Rivers, by boat or rail 78^ St. Leon Springs 102 Montreal, by boat 159 Les Eboulemens...* 73 Murray Bay 85 Tadousac, boat 133 Riviere Quelle, boat 75 Kamouraska, boat 88 Riviere du loup, boat no Cacouna, boat 116 Metis, boat 208 Father Point 185 G. T. R. Ferry i Levis Ferry f Riviere du Loup by rail 119 TARIFF FOR CARTERS. Tariff for Hackney Carriages.— One Horse Vehicles. CALECHE. From any place to any other place within the City limits : — i person, 25 cts.; 2 persons, 40 cts. If to return, add 50 per cent, to the above rates. When the drive exceeds the hour, hour rates to be charged. By the hour, for the first hour : i person, 50 cts.; 2 persons, 60 cts.; for each additional hour : i person, 40 cts.; 2 persons, 50 cts. TARIFF FOR CARTERS. 94 M es. :ity Lirn, rive ,40 WAGON. I'Vom any place to any other place within the City limits: — i or 2 persons, 50 cts.; 3 or 4 persons, 75 cts. If to return, add 50 per cent, to the above rates. When the drive exceeds the hour, hour rates to be charged. By the hour, for the first hour: — i or 2 persons, 75 cts.; 3 or 4 persons, $1 ; for each additional hour : i or 2 persons, 50 cts.; 3 or 4 persons, 75 cts. TWO-HORSE VEHICLES. From any place to any other place within the City limits: — i or 2 persons, $1 ; 3 or 4 persons, $1.50. If to return, add 60 per cent, to the above rates. If the drive exceeds the hour, hour rates to be charged. By the hour, for the first hour : — i or 2 persons, $1 ; 3 or 4 persons, $150; each additional hour: i or 2 persons, 75 cts ; 3 or 4 persons, $1. Provided always that the rate per day of 24 hours will not exceed $10 : $5 for caleche, $7.50 for wagon, or $10 for a two-horse vehicle. Fractions of hours to be charged at pro rata hour rates, but not less than one quarter of an hour shall be charged when the time exceeds the hour. Fifty per cent, to be added ' to the tariff rates from midnight to 11 A.M. The tariff by the hour shall be applied to all drives extending beyond the City limits when the engagement is commenced and concluded within the city. BAGGAGE. For each trunk or box carried in any vehicle, 5 cts ; but no charge shall be made for traveling bags or valises which passengers can carry by the hand. I ■ ll II Winter Scenes. AN ICE BRIDGE. It was in January, 1877, when, with a large crowd cf people, I stood upon the Durham 'ierrace, of the city of Quebec, and looked down upon the river St. Lawrence. The thermometer had that morning marked forty degrees below zero, and all ? round there was nothing but dazzling snow, covering city, plain, and mountain alike, while from the basin of the great river rose a mist which wholly concealed its bleak waters from view. What could induce human beings in such an extreme atmos- phere to pace up and down the exposed promenade, which in summer commands a view unrivalled in the whole world ? The formation of the ice-bridge was mo- mentarily expected, the ferry steamers, whose traffic would be put a stop to by the ice-bridge, had been pre- vented from leaving their wharfs, under penalty of heavy fines, and being fired into, by order of the authorities, were they to attempt to break it. Facing the bitter cold, all looked down upon the hidden stream, vigorou- sly they walked the snow clitd terrace, when suddenly a cry was heard, " It is taken ;" instantly all rushed to tliJ railing and anxiously pored down upon the waters ; slow- ly the mis*^ arose and in its place appeared a smooth surface of dark blue ice, extending far down the river to Indian Point and up as far as the eye could reach. Un- der the cloud of mist nature had done the work, and in n ^'^^v ininutes had improvised a bridge, out of the power 'i AN ICE P.RlDr.K 96 nfman to construct, a p^lorious crystal bridge, as won- derful as it was beautiful. The opposite shore, which, up to within a few minutes, was almost unattainable, had been as it were, in a moment of time, brought into a few minutes communication. Minute by minute the bridge was strengthening, the intensity of the cold thickened the ice, and an hour afterwards, a boy in a sleigh, drawn by a dog, ventured on its surface. As they progressed towards the opposite shore, a sound as of distant thunder rose from the river, for the ice was as a sounding board; and even when the sleigh became but a speck, the rum- bling sound continued, reverberating between the oppo site highlands; then followed, as it seemed to me fool- hardy skaters, who, venturing on the brittle surface ^^jed, on in sweeping circles, V: her and thither; then hundreds followed, and the^^. the bridge presented the view of countless men luxuriating in the enjoyment of skating on virgin ice. It was barely more than an inch in thick- ness, and it appeared mad temerity to trust such fragility, but still the crowd increased and its delirium grew wilder. Every moment, I knew added to the general safety, but each one had to keep seperate from all others, and it was noticed, that when three or four appro achad the same locality, the india-rubber-like surface sank as if it were ready to engulf the reckless individuals. On the wharfs * and quays along the river side, were collected hundreds of on-lookers and I descended after my bird's-eye view to have a closer inspection. Over the edge of a wharf was suspended a ladder, from the foot of which were i 1 97 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. I planks laid on the ice, and by them the skaters gained access to the bridge; a continuous ro^v of people ventured down shod, with skates and were soon eddying over the glassy surface. I watched one after another to see if there were any feeling of bravado in their actions, but there was none except the simple one of anxiety to join the river revel. Suddenly there was a tremor in the shining mass, and on shore and on bridge a j>aralysis seemed to strike all; the ice was moving. Ins'tantly the skaters rushed towards the shore, rapidly they crossed the planks and scaled the ladders, many were immersed in the death-cold waters, but all save one escaped a watery grave; he was carried home to a disconsolate widow and helpless orphans. The bridge was broken up and a human being was ushered into eternity. The morning sun rose next day clear and bright and shed its rays upon a night-iormed bridge as clear and smooth as any mirror; the first had descended with the failling tide but the works of nature are rapidly carried out, and in its place another spanned the broad St. Lawrence* Even now upon its bosom the venturesome skaters, careless- of yesterday's grief, rushed wildly on the surface, and ice- boats in scores swept across it with the rapidity of race horses, their white sails reflecting back the sun's rays as the wings of sea gulls. It was a gala festival and men-, and woman revelled in the rare enjoyment. From the city's height it was a panorama, a kaleidescopic view of changing forms of boats, of men, of vehicles. A bond of harmony and conviviality had been made between AN ICK IJRIDGE. 08 ays as men, i the* ew of bond tween the old city of Quebec, Point Levis, the Island of Orleans, Beauport, and other villages, and representatives from each^place met in unison on the river plain, from which, midst the sound of ever tinkling sleigh bells, rose the strains of music and the shouts and laughter of men and women. It was a mirage, for the ice bridge was as a glass and everything on its surface had its reflection, and the steep cliffs of Levis threw their shadows on the ice as on a peaceful lake. " We,"that is, myself and two friends, were standing on the Durham Terrace, looking down upon this unique and exciting picture, and were carried away with enthusiasm and a desire to join the - giorious carnival. Quickly we provided ourselves with J skates and descended to the Lower Town, and soon found ourselves upon the smooth ice. Near by was an ice boat, waiting to be chartered for a voyage to any part of the surrounding shores, so we closed a bargain with the master and stepped into the cozy cabiu whose roof was the cloudless sky. Voluminous buffalo robes were wrapped around us and we felt as comfortable as though we sat before a parlor fire. Our faces alone could tell how cold was the westerly breeze, which soon carried our vessel, with the flight of a bird, over the shining surface. Meeting small boats was a flash of lightning, and skaters and horses were distanced by us in every passing moment. Rapidly we passed up the river; on one side of us were the frowning battlements and citadel of Quebec, while, on the other, were the higher heights of Levis; anon we were beneath the plains of Abraham; ■^ X 99 GUIDK TO (QUEBEC CITY. \i 1 1 'i i >M i''i rushing past the now desolate timber coves which in summer are crowded with vessels, and which now showed, at the foot of the cliff, the long line of the white-washed dwellings of the hard-working lumbermen. On the one side were the churches of St. Colomban de Sillery, and St. Augustin, and on the other of St. Nicolas, and then the Falls of the Chaudiere. We had swept upwards for over ten miles, when with a slight twist of the tiller, our boat wheeled round with maivellous velocity, and we were on the home stretch. Again we passed villages, churches, and coves, and now and then a winter frozen- in vessel; then Quebec and Levis rose above our heads, and our bow pointed to where the Montmorency Falls threw their vapory column high into the rarified atmos- phere ; already the cone had begun to form and we could even see dark objects ascending and descending its slip- pery sides. Onward we swept past the villages of Beau- port, L'Ange Gardien, and Chateau Richer, when again we turned and doubling Le Bout de L' Isle d'Orleans, we stretched over towards the village of St. Joseph de Levis and skirted along the south shore of the St. Lawrence till we struck across to our starting point, after a wild ride of forty miles, accomplished with the speed of a mail train. Our limbs were a little stiff, and we put on our skates to revive the circulation of the blood. No sooner had the steel touched the clear brittle ice than we felt the freedom of a liberated eagle and we swiftly glided over the silvery surface, seeming hardly to touch the ice, but rather to be carried through the air. Hundreds of AN ICE BRIDGE. lOO 'n skaters were madly rushing hither and thither, ice-boats with their white^sails were sweeping upwards and down- wards,'and horses, as if in delirium were galloping in every direction. I remained with my lady friend, while her husband sped onwards; we followed him at a distance, for we were unable to keep up with his rapid movements. The bride of a few months glided joyfully by my side, and I could see her proudly watching the movements of her husband,'" as he skilfully gyrated and executed diffi- cult figures^on the keen ice — her loving eyes did not lose*sight of him for a moment, and in human sympathy I, rejoiced in /her seemingly unalloyed happiness, an-d the^glad expression in her brown eyes showed me that love and life were to her synonomous. As I watched her I was startled by her sudden look of intense horror. I looked in the direction and saw nothing but the crowd of skaters. In a moment however, there was a rush among them to a central spot and loud cries, but my attention was taken away from them by a piercing shriek from the woman by my side. I had just time to prevent her from falling and was holding her in my arms when I chanced to look at the ice beneath us, and there, under its cruel surface, in the cold, cold water, swept down by the rushing tide, was the struggling form of her husband, vainly clutching and grasping to break through the icy fetters. As he passed beneath us, he gave one despairing look upwards and was then swept away forever from our sight. Fortunately his young bride had fainted and was mercifully spared that despairing anguished look, which lOI GUIDE TO gUEBEC CITY. shall never be forgotten by me through life's longest day. I conveyed to her home the young widow bride, who that day had been so happy, so loving, so loved, who that night lay on her couch, and for many a sr^cceeding day and night, the helpless prey of brain fever and from which couch she rose bereft of reason, to become the inate of an asylum. Patronized hy His ExccUency the Marquis of ftornCj Governor General of Canada. |ij CO ly^ o ■ [H w m t •« wm % ^ 9 '^ I m ^ CO CD H 00 o o 5? d CO T o % CD '>,t. Genera! Suijerlntendent. tF-For Seats in PARLOR CARS and Berths in SLEEPING CARS, apply to above named Ticket (Jiriees.'^jJJ lo i:RTHUR LAVIGNE, Music Dealer and Publisher, IMPOkTEK OF F I A If © From the Celebrated Manufacturers ;:^i^ H 2 < o o X w PI r o KRANICH & BACH, ik\^ni From MASON & HAMLIN, BURDETT, BELL & GO. Music books and sheet music of every description. 55 PABRIQUE STREET. - - - QUEBEC. The latest and most brilliant musical publications are : *'Estrella," Waltz; " Toujours Aimee," Waltz; "Noon Cun/' Polka. Composed by J. VEZINA, Published by A. LAVIGNE, 55 Fabrique Street \.