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1 
 
Truth is slranncr than fiction." 
 
 
 THE 
 
 1 
 
 ; 
 
 RIVER NIAGARA. 
 
 1 
 
 1'^ 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE 
 
 1 
 
 J . 1 
 
 AND 
 
 ■ 
 
 1 ^ 1 
 
 HISTORICAL. 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 PAN-AMERICAN EDITION. 
 
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 Bv KARTON ATKINS 
 
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 BUFFALO, N Y. 
 
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 MAIIH IN 
 
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 THE RIVER NIAGARA. 
 
 CHArTKK 1 
 
 I.AKI.V IIISTOUV. 
 
 ""pHI'', I'an-Amcrican llxiKisition i.s located on the 
 * l)orilcr of tlio most wonderful and renowned 
 freshwater course on the globe. The evtntfnl 
 history of the Niagara River is in keeping with the 
 majesti<- wonders of Nature there ))resented. 
 
 The wonderful Niagara! Ilowing from Lake Krie 
 to I-ake Ontario, prior to IH-io (when was opened 
 the Krie Canal), was the gateway to western empire 
 and civilization, a prominent ta< tor in the settle- 
 ment of a region now of vast expanse and ix)pida- 
 tion, and of unlimited resources. This writing is 
 descriptive of the famous ri.ver, of its historic Iwali- 
 ties, and of the imi)ortant events occurring thereon 
 and thereby, on the march to civilization and settle- 
 ment. 
 
 The region was first known to the civilized world 
 through the report of James Cartier, a French navi- 
 gator, who, in ir)84, discovered and explored the 
 (lulf of St. Lawrence. 
 
 Cartier was told, by the natives, that the big river 
 flowing into the C.ulf came from a big lake far in the 
 
 . I i> 
 
(J The Niagara River. 
 
 interior, and at the end of the lake, another h\g 
 river (lowed therein, and in that river there was a 
 niinluv waterlall, hnt l)e>ond that, they knew noth- 
 ing, earlier explored the St. Lawrence, before 
 returninK to I'ranc e. as lar as the present « ity of 
 Montreal ; and in his reiwrt to his government is 
 first mentioned the existence of the river Niagara 
 and its catarac t — so far as history tells. 
 
 The disclosure, of (artier stimnlated the zeal of 
 lesuit missionaries ami fur-traders, who, after a long 
 interval, penetrated the vast water course ami the 
 wilderness adjac ent thereto. Prior to the dose of 
 the sixteenth c entiiry, these adventurers were estab- 
 lished on the lower St. Lawrence, and early in the 
 seventeenth c entury fhamplain, on the borders of 
 Lake Ontario, wa* warring the native Irocpiois, in 
 order to establish the colony of New France. In 
 1 (',»•>!• came the intrepid explorer, Robert Cavelier 
 de La Salle, who oenetrated Lake Ontario unto its 
 western extremity, to Hnrlington Hay, where he 
 JK'ld a conference wi*h the Indians, on the spot 
 where is now the I ity of Hamilton. From thence 
 La Salle returned easterly, to the mouth of the 
 Ocnesee River, through which water course he 
 crossed the present State of New N ork, and beyoml, 
 reaching a "large river," supposed to have been the 
 
 ( )hio. 
 
 La Salle's account of that exi.edition does not 
 state that he then eutereJ the river Niagara. 
 
 X 
 
 ^fc^U— 
 
■r big 
 
 was a 
 
 noth- 
 bcforc 
 
 ily of 
 lent is 
 tiagara 
 
 zeal of 
 a IctiiK 
 ml the 
 lose of 
 estah- 
 in the 
 tiers of 
 lois, in 
 :e. In 
 'avelier 
 unto its 
 lere he 
 le spot 
 thence 
 of the 
 irse he 
 lie'yoml, 
 )een the 
 
 oes not 
 
 I 
 
 FMrly History. ' 
 
 Ten years later, 1.;. Salle returned to Lake 
 Ontario.'and, on a small vessel of ten tons, sailed 
 into the nwuth of the big river, < ailed by the natives 
 Niah-giuih. Such orthography was changed to 
 Niagara by the Frenrh, in K^M. History does nut 
 record that white men entered the Niagara k.ver 
 prior to La Salle. 
 
 'I'he little vessel ascended the river for seven miles, 
 unto the lower rapids, where her i.rogress was inter- 
 rupted. At the foot of the rapids, on the exst bank 
 of the river. La Salle constructed a cabin surrounded 
 by a iwlisade, a store house — his base of supplies 
 for his |)rojected expedition to explore the great 
 inland waters beyond. U Salle's structure was 
 erected where is now Lewiston Unding, and the 
 locality has the distinction of being the first foot- 
 hold of white men on the borders of the Niagara. 
 
 With U Salle was Father Henne|)in, who made 
 an exploration of the river unto Uke Erie, and gave 
 to history the first description of the great cataract 
 thereon. The river is believed to have been trav- 
 ersed by Jesuit missionaries as early as 1640, though 
 no account thereof was made kno vn to history. 
 
 Five miles above the cataract 1^ Salle constructed 
 a larger vessel, the historic Grifoft, with which he 
 and Hennepin, on August 7, 1G79, sailed into Lake 
 Erie ; the first ves.sel, other than canoes, and, per- 
 haps,' the battcaux of the missionaries, to float on 
 the great waters above the Falls of Niagara. 
 
 I 
 
 --■mmJL 
 
8 The Niagara River. 
 
 The Niagara Frontier, in early time, was a 
 (lark and Moody ground of savage warfare. The 
 region was for a long period peaceably occupied 
 by the Neuter Nation, but the more powerful 
 nation of Irocpiois <oveted their grand hunting and 
 fishing ground, and, to obtain possession thereof, 
 waged a war of extermination against the occujants, 
 ending with their utter annihilation. 
 
 Later on the region was the scene of bloody strife 
 between the forces of France and pjigland, each 
 with savage allies, in furtherance of their frantic 
 st hemes of American colonization ; and, subse- 
 ijuently, of the heroic battles between American and 
 ilritish forces in the war of IHl'i. 
 
'11 
 
 The River and Islands. 
 
 e 
 
 was a 
 The 
 Lxiipicd 
 owfrful 
 ing and 
 [hereof, 
 :u|)ants, 
 
 ly strife 
 
 (1, each 
 
 frantic 
 
 suhse- 
 
 can and 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Till'. KIVKK AND ISLANDS. 
 
 IN its immense water-flow, its grand scenery and 
 historic lore, the Niagara is one of the most re- 
 nowned rivers of the world. Ihe single outlet of 
 the great inland seas : lakes Superior, Huron, Mich- 
 igan, St. Clair and Krie, together with their hundreds 
 of tributary streams, comprising a water surface of 
 r)00,00() s(iuare miles, more than one-half the fresh 
 water of the globe, must justify such distinction. 
 On its course from Uke Erie, for three miles, the 
 river is only one-half mile in width, varying in 
 depth from twenty to forty feet, and with a current 
 flowing nine miles per hour over a rock bottom. At 
 the end of this distance the shores recede, until 
 reaching a width (measuring across Grand Island) 
 of eight miles from shore to shore. Here the flow 
 of waters is more peaceful, yet diligently the large 
 volume glides along to its precipitous leap. Two 
 miles above the Falls, where the river is about two 
 miles wide, the flood of waters commence, between 
 contracting shores, a wild rush for the '^taract, 
 thus increasing its velocity to fifteen miles per hour 
 before taking its awful pK ige. From that iK)int 
 to the verge of the falls, the descent is fifty-seven 
 feet, and then a perpendicular fall of 164 feet 
 into the boiling abyss below. These two miles of 
 
1/1 
 n 
 
 e 
 
 c 
 
 < 
 to. 
 
The River and hlands. 
 
 11 
 
 •a 
 E 
 
 < 
 
 rapids are an important feature of the wonders of 
 Niagara, the foam-crested breakers dashing and 
 leaping twenty feet above the main current. The 
 raging waters roar, hiss and boil in endless agony, 
 forming a scene awing to the beholder. 
 
 The two views ot the Falls herein displayed are 
 of ancient origin, being taken from a sketch made 
 in 175)0, by Duke de Liancourt, a French savant, 
 then a pilgrim to Niagara. His description of the 
 cataract is ipiaint reading. An extract is appended : 
 "There it falls in one dense awful mass of green 
 waters, unbroken and resistless ; here it is broken 
 into drops, and falls like a sea of diamonds s[)arkling 
 in the sun. Now it shoots forth like rockets in end- 
 less succession, and now it is so light and foaming 
 that it dances in the sun as it goes. Then there is 
 the deei) expanding pool below, where the waters 
 pitch in agitation and foam, and beyond the waters 
 spread out like a rii)pling sea of alabaster. 
 
 "This last feature is perfectly uni.pie, and one 
 would think nothing could add to its loveliness ; but 
 there lies upon it, as if they were made for each 
 other, 'Heaven's own bow.' C), never in heaven 
 itself had it so fair a resting place. 
 
 "Above and overhanging me was Table Rock, 
 while immediately before me was spread, in all its 
 height and majesty, the unspeakable cataract itself; 
 seeming to fall direct from heaven, and rushing to 
 the earth with a weight and voice that made the 
 
 'M 
 
The Niagara River. 
 
 
 12 
 
 rocks around me fairly tremble. The power, the sub- 
 limity, the beauty, the bliss of the scene — it cannot 
 be told." 
 
 Some tlifee score years ago a pilgrim to Niagara 
 was insjjired in manner [lartially as follows : 
 
 I lail ! thee - Colossal Flood ! thy majesty and miglit 
 Amazes — then enraptures — then o'erawes the sight ; 
 The glare of lordly kings, in every clime and zone, 
 Is dim beneath the splendor of thy o'erpour'ng throne. 
 No hindrance to thy lusty (low, no power bids thee stay, 
 Onward — ever onward — thy current holds its way ; 
 The rising mists that veil Ihcc — thy grand overpour, 
 I'roclaim thee — -Jreation's Wonder ! with an endless roar. 
 Thy diadem - .•> • emeral.l green — of the rarest, purest hue, 
 Sfl on waves of snowy foam and spray of fleeting dew ; 
 Tresses of the brightest pearls adorn thy stately sheet. 
 The rainbow lays its radiant gems in homage at thy feet. 
 
 If mountains are as naught in the hollow of Thy hand, 
 If continents, in Thy balance, are but grains of sand ; 
 If Niagara is so very great, to us who lowly bow, 
 (), Creator ! of all, how surpassing great art Thou ! 
 
 For seven miles below the Falls the river courses 
 through a deep gorge, about HOO feet wide, lined by 
 towering walls, the lops of which are on a level with 
 the river banks above the cataracts. At the foot of 
 the gorge is Lewiston, where the river again ex- 
 jjands, and from thence peacefully flows seven miles 
 further to Lake Ontario. For nearly two miles 
 below the Falls the current is sluggish, with a depth 
 of 250 feet. Then, again, the flood rushes on with 
 
The River ami hlands. 
 
 IS 
 
 he sub- 
 cannot 
 
 *t]iagara 
 
 It 
 
 i; 
 
 If. 
 
 stay, 
 
 ss roar, 
 rest hue, 
 low ; 
 
 !Lt, 
 
 f.tt. 
 
 ♦ 
 aiut, 
 Id; 
 
 courses 
 lined by 
 vel with 
 2 foot of 
 ^ain ex- 
 ;n miles 
 o miles 
 a depth 
 on with 
 
 api^allinp velocity down a <hannel. between hi.'h 
 walls, not more than TOO feet wi.le at several i)0,nts. 
 The sublime grandeur of the scene confuses humaii 
 comprehension. When ga/ing upon the angry Hood 
 through this portion of the gorge, an unequaled 
 scene is presented. At some i)oints in its mad rush, 
 the pent-up current piles up in the middle ot the 
 stream, nine feet higher than at the edge. Nowhere 
 in the world are waters more turbulent. 
 
 -imiK'tuously, 
 
 The raging waters sweep ; 
 They corne in their sublimity, 
 Desctmling ieaj) <>'tr leap. 
 
 Ill wrath anil roir they rusli alonj;. 
 
 Through cragged rocks they flow ; 
 
 Madlv roaring down it comes. 
 
 It boils, and foams, aiul thunders through." 
 
 The descent of the river from Uke Erie to Lewis- 
 ton, seven miles below the Falls, is abot.t m feet. 
 From the lake to the cataract, the descent .s eighty - 
 seven feet; then a perpendicular fall of 1(54 feet; 
 from thence, through the gorge to Lew.ston, seven 
 miles, the fall is about eighty-six feet. When con- 
 templating the vast source of water supply the 
 immensity of the flow will be justified. Of the 
 nuantity of water passing over the Falls, est.mates 
 have been made by several scientists. Professor 
 Lyell says, fifteen hundred millions of cub..- leet 
 every minute. Dr. Dwight estimates that over one- 
 
Gorge Kajids, — From a l>Ji<>li>^rra|ih 
 
 \^. 
 
11 
 
 The Rivef and hlatui's. 
 
 15 
 
 hmulrctl millions of ttms i)asses over the horseshoe 
 tall every hour. 
 
 It is estimated that at the center of the horseshoe 
 <ataratt, and for a distance above, the water is at 
 least twenty feet deej). Such estimate was confirmed 
 in lH2i>, when the schooner Ditroit passeil over that 
 point. I'he bottom of the vessel was broken in the 
 rapids above, when the hull became water-logged, 
 and sunken decks to, necessarily drawing eighteen 
 feet. Nevertheless, for a distance above, and over the 
 brink, the wreck met no obstruction, passing freely 
 over. Ihe Dtlroit was a prize of Perry's victory i 
 Having been naturalized amid the booming of big 
 guns, she served as an American merchantman some 
 fifteen years, and then was sold for an exhibition. 
 
 rhe islands of the river, including islets in the 
 rapids above the cataracts, are about forty in number. 
 First in course is Squaw Island, (ontaining 1;}1 
 acres ; then Strawberry Island, about 100 acres. 
 Then comes C.rand Island, commencing five miles 
 below Lake Erie, and extending to within three 
 miles of the Falls, containing 17,-'?84 acres of well- 
 timbered and productive land. Fhnking C.rand 
 Island are Beaver Island, thirty acres ; Rattlesnake, 
 forty-five acres ; Huckhorn, 145 acres ; Tonawanda 
 Island, sixty acres ; and Navy Island, 300 acres. 
 Below, near the .\merii:an shore, is Cayuga Island, 
 100 acres. Of these, Beaver, Navy and Cayuga are 
 timbered, and have good soil. 
 
• ' II — "ill *T', -'--T^BI 
 
 Tmk Horseshoe Cataract, Canadian S...*.- From 
 a Sketch Made in 179s- 
 
L 
 
 The River and Islands. 
 
 17 
 
 Coat, properly Iris, Island divides the Falls into 
 seijarate sheets. It is about half a mile long, and 
 about half the distance in width ; containing seventy- 
 five acres of timbered land. Situated between chan- 
 nels of wild rapids, and flanked on either side by 
 the most majestic cataracts in the world, it is, be- 
 yond iiuestion, the most pictures(|ue, fascinating and 
 romantic si)Ot of earth on the globe. Visitors are 
 reluctant to deiKirt therefrom, and are wont to muse 
 with Montgomery : 
 
 " If (;oil liath iiKulc this world so fair, 
 Where sin ;in<l ileath iiliouiul ; 
 I low iKautiful bcyoiul compare, 
 Will Paradise ! be found." 
 
 From 
 
 
18 
 
 The Niagara River. 
 
 CHAPTER 111. 
 
 iiisroKic roiNTs. 
 
 FORT Niagara was originally « onstructcd as a 
 defensive work, in KiHO, by the Maniuis Dc 
 NonviUe, a French military officer. La Salle erected 
 two block-houses on the site in 1C.78, which, how- 
 ever, were burned soon after. The fortification has 
 in turn been occupied by the French, English and 
 Americans. Some of the ancient structures erected 
 by the French still exist. The location is one of the 
 most beautiful and eligible for the purpose in all 
 America. In the i)romotion of western discovery, 
 civilization and settlement, as a base, the fort was of 
 great imix)rtance ; and during two centuries of time 
 it was coveted in war, and in intrigue with the 
 native savages. 
 
 Opposite Fort Niagara is the pleasant village of 
 Niagara-on-the-Uke, once called Newark ; and a 
 short distance above, on the river bank, is Fort 
 C.eorge, a defensive work constructed in 1798. 
 Fort Cieorge was besieged and captured by the 
 Americans in 1813. Six miles above, on the Cana- 
 dian side, is Queenston, where a desperate battle 
 between British and American forces was fought, 
 July 25, 1814. In this engagement the British 
 Cleneral Brock, a valorous officer, was killed. There, 
 on a bold prominence, stands his majestic monu- 
 
 (U 
 
T^ 
 
 «» 
 
 Historic Points. 
 
 10 
 
 :tc(l as a 
 n|uis Dc 
 c ercctetl 
 ich, how- 
 ation has 
 iglish and 
 .'s erected 
 jne of the 
 se in all 
 liscovery, 
 ort was of 
 ;s of time 
 with the 
 
 village of 
 k ; and a 
 i, is Fort 
 
 in 1798. 
 :d by the 
 
 the Cana- 
 ate battle 
 as fought, 
 he British 
 d. There, 
 itic monu- 
 
 ment, visible from many miles surrounding. I his 
 shore is hallowed ground. In i\icl, the west bank ol 
 the river, all the way to Fort Krie, is extremely 
 l)ictures(iue and interestingly historic. Over this 
 highway bo armies of the war of 1H12 marched 
 and countermarched to the strains of martial music, 
 each, in turn, to triumph, and on retreat. On the 
 American side, opposite Queenston, is Lew.ston, 
 celebrated as the white man's first foothold on the 
 Niagr.ra Frontier above Uke Ontario. 
 
 Three miles above Lewiston is the Dev^ils Hole, a 
 deep gorge, penetrating, at right angles, the high 
 wall of the river. It is 150 feet deep, with perpen- 
 dicular walls. Here, in 1763, was enacted a 
 horrible tragedy. A wagon-train conveying military 
 supplies, consisting of twenty or more wagons, was 
 attacked by five or six hundred Indians, who 
 pillaged the train and threw the horses, oxen and 
 wagons over the bank, and ma.ssacred all but two of 
 the drivers and escorts. Hearing of the affray, the 
 garrison at Lewiston, consisting of two companies 
 of trooi)s, ha.stened to the scene. On their arrival 
 the savages were in ambush, and all but a half do/en 
 of the soldiers were killed, some by musket balls, 
 some by the tomahawk, and some by being driven 
 over the bank to certain death on the bottom rocks. 
 Eighty scaljxs were the trophies of the savages. 
 
 Three miles above the cataract, on the American 
 shore, is the historic landing, Fort Schlosser, 
 
ia 
 
ill 
 
 Historic Points. 
 
 'it 
 
 originally named I'ort d.i Pane, l.y the iTomh, an.l 
 sulwciut-ntly. l.iUlc Fort, l.y the Uritisli. and was 
 finally given its modern name, for Captain Joseph 
 Schlotwer, a C.erman serving in the British army on 
 the frontier, in \-T^\). The landing is further noteil 
 as the place where the steamboat Cvv/inc was cut 
 out ami sent flaming over the Falls, Deceml.er 2», 
 1837. The locality is now the site of extensive 
 electric works, and named i;chota. 
 
 On the opi.osite shore, al.reast of Fort Schlosser, 
 is the .[uaint town of Chipi.ewa, a noted battle- 
 ground of the war of IHl'i. Ihe village contains a 
 number of old buildings erected in the eighteenih 
 
 century. 
 
 On the American shore, under the shelter oi 
 
 Cayuga Island, in KiTSt, I -a Salle constructed the 
 
 Griffon, the pioneer vessel of western civilization. 
 
 The river and island scenery there presented is yet 
 
 the same as when the historic vessel was launc bed 
 
 220 years ago. 
 
 Still another famous locality is Perry's Shipyard, 
 under the shelter of Scjuaw Island. Here, in IHl.'i, 
 were constructed three vessels, to add to the fleet 
 building at Presc|ue Isle. 
 
 The old ferry to Fort F:rie was an early enterprise. 
 F:arly voyagers mentioned its existence at the time 
 of the Revohition. Until the advent of the horse 
 boat, in l«2r), the ferry was supplied with scows 
 propelled by sweeps, wielded by lusty watermen. 
 
I 
 
 ; 
 
 •>') 
 
 r/v Niagara River. 
 
 'I'hc iliiwtmlion, a roprodiu tion of an old jtrint 
 l»iililihhc(l in IMIH, shows the landinj; on the Ameri- 
 can side, where now is the Front. 
 
 An historic institution is the terry across the Niag- 
 ara to Fort l'>ie. Could it relate its history, inter 
 esling interviews would lie in order. 
 
 f 
 
 ^ 
 
The War at HuffM. 
 
 28 
 
 (I print 
 Amcri- 
 
 \c NiitK- 
 V, inliT 
 
 ?. 
 
 f 
 
 CHAl'THk IV. 
 
 Till'. WAK AT III II' A I, O. 
 
 /^N '..nc 'iU, 1812, a moHsciiKor from VVashin(,'t(»n 
 ^^ .urivL'd on the Ironticr with intelligent e that 
 war had l)ecn (iecl.ireil against (;roat Hrilain. 'I'ho 
 American si hooner Connrttiiiif, in ignorance of the 
 fact, was then at anchor off the mouth of Hnffalo 
 Creek, awaiting a fair wind to depart up the lake. 
 In the afternoon the schooner was approached by 
 two rowboat.s fdled with armed Canadians, who 
 seized the vessel and moved her to a position 
 covered by the guns of Fort Krie. 
 
 This was the first hostile demonstration of the 
 war on the Niagara frontier. Then, lutterics and 
 earthworks were thrown up on both banks of the 
 river. Above the mouth of Scajaipiada Creek was 
 the Sailors' Battery, where were moimted three \V>- 
 |)ounders. One-half mile alwve this wa.s another 
 battery of three guns. lielow the present site of 
 Fort I'orter was Fort Tompkins, a l.irger fortification. 
 Just above Fort Tompkins was a mortar battery, 
 armed with an eight-inch mortar. This historic 
 imjilement of war now [)Oses, fitly inscribed, near 
 the monument in Lafayette Park ; accomi)anied by 
 two British cannon captured with the brig At/ams, in 
 a conflict hereafter described. On the ninth of Oc- 
 tober, Lieut. Klliott, a naval officer assigned to 
 the frontier with Ferry, stood on the river bank. 
 
 mi.w»i-i 'iiiiif iB'i""^rrr'Vl 
 
 Pifr-.^ u^ ^mw^mMmi i ^ t i m --«*nyf s^>^v t mm^ ^ 3 ' SK.TJ V^jrr''^-^- 
 
24 The Niagara River. 
 
 where now is Fort Porter, watching a vessel approach- 
 ing from the lake. Near by Elliott stood the famous 
 Seneca Chief, Farmers Brother, also with eyes on 
 
 the vessel. 
 
 Then the new arrival anchored nigh unto the 
 British brig-of-war A<fafns, moored under the guns 
 of Fort F:rie. The stranger was the British schooner 
 Caledonia, with a cargo of furs from Uke Huron. 
 Farmers Brother, ever loyal to the Americans, said 
 to Elliott, when jjointing to the two vessels, "Vou 
 take 'em, got furs, plenty. You take boats, soldiers, 
 plenty, night, dark, you take 'em." 
 
 The lieutenant grasped the suggestion of the old 
 chief with enthusiasm, and at once took action. 
 Applying to Capt. Towson of the army for a force 
 of men, that officer readily entered into the scheme. 
 At one o'clock in the morning four boats, filled with 
 armed men, left the American shore, two under the 
 direction of Towson, and the two others under 
 Elliott. The night was rainy and dark. Making a 
 detour well above the unsuspecting enemy, they 
 allowed the boats to silently drift down the current 
 upon the vessels. Simultaneously they were boarded, 
 and before their sleeping force was half awakened 
 the Americans had possession of the vessels, had slipt 
 their cables, and had them under sail for the Ameri- 
 can shore. Fifty-eight prisoners were captured, 
 including three officers ; and thirty-eight American 
 prisoners, confined on the brig Adams, were recap- 
 tured. With the expedition were three citizen 
 
 \\ 
 
 ' 
 
The IVar at Buffalo. 
 
 25 
 
 volunteers : Dr. Cyrenius Chapin, (luy J. Atkins 
 and James Sloan. The two latter navigated the 
 vessels after their capture. 
 
 In 1812 Buffalo was a frontier hamlet of about 
 500 people, and one hundred buildings. These 
 were scattered along on what is now Main Street 
 from the Terrace uj) to the present (loodell Street. 
 Then the Terrace was a sandy bluff, between which 
 and the creek stretched a morass with a riotous 
 growth of bushes and rank grasses. The lake, river, 
 and Canada shore at Fort Krie were in plain view 
 from the sand bluff". From other directions a dense 
 forest crowded tht hamlet. 
 
 \Vhen war came it brought dire calamity to the 
 village of Buffalo. Its inhabitants were compelled 
 to flee from the flames of their burning homes in 
 mid-winter to find shelter in adjacent settlements. 
 With the exception of two buildings, their village 
 v/as in ashes. The following account of the burn- 
 ing, recently published for the first time, is a concise 
 and conservative statement ; 
 
 "When Gen. Wilkinson, in 1813, retired to 
 lower I^ke Ontario, he left (Jen. McClure in com- 
 mand of the force on the Niagara, who made his head- 
 Huarters at Fort (Jeorge, from whence he issued 
 flaming proclamations, and when abandoning that 
 position committed the needless cruelty of burning 
 the adjacent village of Newark, thereby turning 
 helpless families out into winter's cold and snow. 
 The inhuman act brought condign punishment on 
 
 MUMlHi 
 
 mmmiiiittim 
 
 iHiilMiiiilM 
 
26 The Niagara River. 
 
 the American frontier. Then McClure took up 
 head.iuarters in Buffalo. The British, fired with the 
 spirit of revenge, vuidertook reprisals. The whole 
 riverude from Lewiston to Tonawanda Creek was 
 devastated by the British and their allied savages. 
 During the three weeks following the destruction of 
 Newark, six American villages were burned, together 
 with all the scattered homes the avengers could find, 
 den. McClure called for volunteers to rally for the 
 defense of Buffalo, and then went to Batavia and 
 gave up the command to (ien. Hall, who hurried on 
 to Buffalo such available force as he could find, 
 where he arrived December 25th, and did all he could 
 to repel the invaders. The talc has often been told 
 how small detachments of Americans were in turn 
 thrown against the enemy, and in turn demoralized ; 
 how the British landed at Black Rock and marched 
 up to the doomed village, dispersing such resistance 
 as they met. Then followed a scene which passes 
 description. The few roads leading out from the 
 burning hamlet were thronged with a motely crowd, 
 all hurrying as fast as possible from the revengeful 
 enemy, with terror blanching every face." 
 
 Such was the result of the unnecessary destruction 
 of the Canadian village by C.en. McClure on his 
 evacuation of Fort George ; and who then and there 
 disgraced the uniform of an American officer in so 
 doing. A true soldier would have shrunk from such 
 wanton cruelty. 
 
 *>^ 
 
Battle of ScajaqmiU Creek. 
 
 27 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 BATTI.K OV SCAJAQUADA CUKl^K. 
 
 f N the summer of 1814, Fort Eric was garrisoned 
 * by American troops, under Hrig.-Clen. Cains. 
 On August .'W, (Icn. Drummond marched his 
 British regulars, S,000 strong, from the garrisons 
 at Chii)pewa and Fort Oeorge, up the west bank of 
 the Niagara, to storm the fort. On his arrival, the 
 British commander learned that the works were 
 manned secure against a coup de main, which caused 
 him to resort to an investment. An expedition to 
 seize military stores, and destroy magazines at Buf- 
 falo, consisting of a strong force under Col. 
 Tucker, was thrown across the river, landing below 
 the mouth of Scajaciuada Creek, with orders to 
 cross before daybreak, and then strike for the sup- 
 plies and magazines. Oen. Brown, anticiiwting 
 such a purpose, had withdrawn Maj. Morgan, wiih 
 his force of riflemen, from Fort Erie, and had tnem 
 stationed at Black Rock, to watch the movements 
 of the enemy. Morgan descried the British ap- 
 proaching, and moved his men to the south bank 
 of the Scaja(iuada, removed the planking from the 
 bridge spanning the stream, and there awaited the 
 
 enemy. 
 
 When the raiding force arrived they found the 
 bridge of no avail, and the stream unfordable. 
 
 
 iMIi 
 
28 
 
 The Niagara River. 
 
 When atteinpiing to repair the bridge, the enemy 
 received a warm reception from the riflemen, causing 
 them to fall back on the line, and then, for upwards 
 of an hour, a hot battle ensued. 
 
 In the mean time Tucker had disjatched a strong 
 force on a left flank, to ford the creek higher u|> 
 stream. Morgan met this force at the ford with a 
 like detachment, where a fierce combat took place, 
 ending with the recoil of the enemy, and retire- 
 ment to their main body. 
 
 Having in two attempts failed to cross the creek, 
 the enemy gathered their dead and wounded and 
 hastily retreated to their boats, and retui.ied to the 
 west side of the river. 
 
 There were a number of sharp encounters on the 
 banks of the Scajacjuada during the war, the above- 
 described being the last of the series — the farewell 
 engagement. 
 
 The Scajatpiada : The historic water -course 
 named for an historic chieftain ; whose lone cabin 
 marked its bank prior to the footprints of the white 
 man. The word is of Iroquois dialect and signifies 
 isolation — "away from the multitude." Rever- 
 ently the stream observes simplicity, as yet, its lone- 
 liness is unbroken, quietly it winds the monumental 
 slopes of Forest 1-iwn. Then, on its way to the 
 Niagara, it courses the pictures(iue grounds of the 
 Pan-American Exposition. 
 
 , 
 
The Siege of Fort Erie. 29 
 
 . 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THK SIEGK OF FORT ERIK. 
 
 THK account here given of the battles of Fort 
 Erie is based on the reports to Congress of the 
 then Secretary of War, Pecember, 1814. 
 
 On the 12th of August, Gen. Dnimmond's de- 
 fensive and offensive measures being completed, 
 he, on the morning of the 13th, began his attack on 
 the fort by a heavy cannonade. This was continued 
 until the evening of the 14th, without material 
 damage to the works. 
 
 The American commandant concluded that an 
 assault would be made during the night, :t being 
 rainy and very dark. Accordingly, he made such 
 disposition of his comparatively small force, as 
 would best enable him to repel it. 
 
 About two o'clock in the morning a heavy column of 
 the enemy was found approaching Towson's battery, 
 when the well directed discharges therefrom, aided 
 by a shower of musketry, compelled the British to 
 fall back. A second attempt on the same point met 
 a like result. Then the enemy made a flank move- 
 ment on the water side of the fort, and here the 
 movable imrt of the defence, under Wood and 
 Ripley, met the attack and decisively repulsed it, 
 the falling enemy drifting away with the current — 
 those who were wading the stream. At this junc- 
 
 
 
 
30 
 
 The Niagara River. 
 
 tiirc, the enemy's central column was pressing for- 
 ward on the line of entrenchment connecting the 
 l)atteries of Towson and Williams; hut, though 
 making vigorous effort, they were checked by the 
 fire of Middle's and Fanning's artillery, sustained by 
 a regiment of ritles, and Porter's volunteers. 
 
 While such were the failures of the enemy, in the 
 next assault, after two repulses in which the enemy 
 suffered great loss, they at last got possession of this, 
 one of the outer bastions of the fort. The enemy's 
 force first entering the bastion was led by Col. 
 Drummond, a relative of the general in command, a 
 brave, but inhuman officer. As the enemy ruslicd 
 in, Drummond, who was in the lead, shouted 
 "Charge, give the Yankees no (juarter." His 
 followers rushed ujwn the Americans and a hand-to- 
 hand conflict ensued. Williams and Macdonough 
 were wounded. They a.sked for cpiarter, but Drum- 
 mond refused, emptying his pistol into Mac- 
 donough's body. Then an American infantryman, 
 who witnessed the at t, shot Drummond through the 
 heart, and he was a dead man, while his victim, 
 Macdonough, yet lingered in lite. A few moments 
 later a terrific explosion occurred within the bastion 
 occupied by the enemy, blowing the structure into 
 the air, and killing or maiming most of those inside. 
 The cause of the explosion was generally attribiited 
 to the dying Macdonough, who, to avenge his 
 wanton murder, threw a torch into a large magazine 
 
 . 
 
The Siege of Fort Erie. 
 
 31 
 
 
 chest standing near where he was shot down. Soon 
 after the ex|)losion, the enemy retired to their 
 entrenchments, and the combat ended ; but leaving 
 on the field 220 dead and 174 wounded; 1H6 
 of the enemy were made prisoners. 'I'hough defeated 
 in his attempt to carry the fort by storm, the British 
 cominander, adhering to his jiurpose of reducing it, 
 was opening new trenches, and establishing addi- 
 tional lotteries. 
 
 At the battle of Lundy's Lane, in July previous, 
 (ien. Brown and (len. Scott were wounded, (len. 
 Brown had so far recovered from his wound that 
 he hastened to Fort P>ie, and again, on the 2d 
 of September, assumed command of the American 
 forces on the frontier. 
 
 During the four weeks ensuing, both combatants 
 were strengthening their positions, and augmenting 
 their forces for the final struggle. 'I'he enemy had 
 been materially reinforced, and had constructed 
 additional lotteries and trenches. 'I'he Americans 
 were reinforced by a column of militia recruited in 
 Buffalo by Gen. Porter. The enemy delaying an 
 attack, Oen. Brown, though with an inferior force, 
 determined to storm the enemy's position accord- 
 ing to plans submitted by den. Porter. 
 
 On the 18th, the Americans were formed into 
 double columns of attack ; that of the left, com 
 posed of Porter's volunteers, C.ibson's riflemen, and 
 the remains of the 1st and 23d regiments of infantry 
 
 liKVdl 
 
 
r 
 
 ;V2 The Niafi^ra River. 
 
 was marched throuKh a wood, and flanked the 
 enemy's right ; while that of the American right, 
 under Brig. -den. Miller, made up of the re- 
 mains of the (»th, 11th, 17th, ISHh, and 21st regi- 
 ments of infantry, took position on the western 
 front of the enemy, with orders to force his 
 entrenchments between batteries Nos. 2 and '.I 
 Such orders were promptly executed by the gallant 
 Miller, and in a time remarkably short, three 
 batteries of the enemy, two block houses and their 
 connecting intrenchments, were captured and de- 
 stroyed. 
 
 In producing this result, the coluran led by Wood, 
 Porter and Gibson had their TuU share of the work. 
 After turning the enemy's right, it carried hy storm 
 a strong block house in rear of battery No. 3; 
 spiked, in the latter, three 24-pounders, blew up the 
 magazine, and then assisted Miller in reducing bat- 
 tery No. 2. 
 
 "It was thus," reported Gen. IJrown, '♦thot in 
 a close action, not exceeding an hour's time, one 
 thousand trooi)s of the line, and an ecpial number of 
 New York militia, routed the enemy, and diminished 
 his effective force one thousand men. An attack so 
 Ijold in its conception could not be made without 
 severe loss ; amounting in the aggregate to 511 men, 
 including officers and privates. Among the officers 
 killed were the gallant intrepids. Wood and Gib- 
 son. 
 

 
 The Siege of Fort Erie. 
 
 m 
 
 Then Cien. Drmnmond, with the remnant of 
 
 his division, made a hasty retreat to I'ort (leorge. 
 
 The enemy's loss in killed, wounded, and prisoners 
 
 captured was upwards of one thousand, officers and 
 
 men. 
 
 Thus were contested the obstinate battles of 
 Fort Erie. The sanguinary conflicts at Queenston, 
 Chippewa and Lundy's I.ane are e(iually rated in 
 history as among the most desperate engagements 
 between armed men in the annals of modern war- 
 fare. 
 
 The visitor at Buffalo, when viewing its pictur- 
 esi|ue water-front, can gaze upon the broad expanse 
 of Lake Krie, the turbulent flow of the Niagara, 
 and, where lake and river join, can see the ruins of 
 Fort Erie; and, below, the beautiful landscape of 
 the Canadian shore for miles in extent. In fact, 
 nowhere else in the world, within the distance, are 
 Nature's wonders so bountifully displayed ; nowhere 
 are spots of earth, in western history, more historic, 
 than are the borders of the Niagara River. 
 
 
^ A. 
 
 The Patriot PVar. 
 
 85 
 
 'C 
 
 u 
 
 I 
 
 B 
 
 '3 
 
 p 
 
 .9 
 
 3 
 
 CHATTER Vll. 
 iiiK I'A'ikior WAU. 
 
 W I Til IN a few months after the fmal liattic of 
 l<'ort Kric the war was at an end, anil there 
 after the angel of peace proi laimetl her vi« tories on 
 the frontier for a long i.erio(l — until 1h:{7, when 
 the Canadian people were in trouble with an u))- 
 rising of factious jmrtisans in rebellion against their 
 local government. Under their leader, McKenzie, 
 the self styled "Patriots" congregated in large 
 numbers on the American border, and early in tht! 
 winter occupied Navy Island, in the Niagara River, 
 which is British soil. There, with the loyalists on 
 the opiK)site Canadian shore, they maintained an 
 artillery duel for several weeks. The main casualty 
 of the engagement was on the island, where a can- 
 non-shot penetrated the head of one man and a 
 barrel of beans, causing a wild scattering of brains 
 and beans — princijially beans. 
 
 The winter of 1837-H was an open one, there 
 being no ice in lake or harbor at Buffalo prior to 
 late in January. The little river steamboat Caroline 
 had enjoyed a iiuiet Christmas moored in the harbor, 
 when her owner conceived the brilliant idea that 
 his boat could "earn her board" .>lying between 
 Fort Schlosser and the rebel camp on Navy Island. 
 Accordingly, on the early morn of December 28th 
 
.'{({ The Niagara River. 
 
 the Carolinf, gaily dcrorated with biintiHn, and car- 
 rying a score or more of curious sight-seers, steamed 
 out of the harbor and hied herself down the Niagara 
 to Fort Schlosser. During the afternoon the boat 
 made two round trips to Navy Island, and then, in 
 fancied security, tied up for the night at Schlosser 
 dock, with the larty curios, including her owner, 
 camped in the little cabin below deck. About two 
 o'civ-' k in the morning the boat was boarded by a 
 jarty of loyalists from Canada, her sleeping jwrty 
 aroused, and, in their night clothes, hustled onto 
 the wharf; the boat was cast off, fired, set adrift, 
 and in flames she went kiting over the Falls ; carry- 
 ing therewith the nether garments of the sight seers 
 from Buffalo, together with an unimid board bill. 
 One of the curios, a man named Duffee, an Ameri- 
 can citizen, who objected to the proceeding, and 
 refused to walk ashore, was promptly killed and his 
 body thrown onto the wharf. 
 
 Then the pot boiled on the American side : "An 
 American vessel cut out of a home port, a citizen 
 murdered and the property of a citizen destroyed," 
 raised a flurry of indignation all along the border. 
 The excitable event became the subject of con- 
 siderable argument with the English Government. 
 On their i>art it was claimed that the boat had for- 
 feited her neutrality ; had aided the insurgents, in 
 conveying to them arms and supplies; and that 
 when arrested on the scene, wherever found, her 
 
'An 
 
 The Patriot IVar. 
 
 87 
 
 seizure was justifiable. Such claim was confirmed 
 by the United States on the trial of one of the 
 raiders, who siibse(|uently was arrested when visiting 
 this side, and indicted for murder, tried and ac- 
 (juitted. However, the British (lovernment made a 
 courteous aiK)logy, when the matter was dropped 
 and soon forgotten. 
 
 m 
 
I ' 
 
 ^^ 
 
 I: 
 
 'I 
 
 : 
 
 I 
 
 38 77)^ Niagara River. 
 
 CHAPTER Vlll. 
 
 (.KN. SCOTT AND COl.. KIRHV. 
 
 \X7HEN occupying Navy Island, the Patriots 
 ' * burglarized the State arsenal at Hatavia, and 
 look therefrom a tjuantity of war material belonging 
 to the State of New York, and conveyed the same 
 to the island. 
 
 This event, and the affair of the Caro/inc, brought 
 den. Scott of the army and William L. Marcy, 
 Governor of the State, to Buffalo. In the latter 
 part of January, 1888, the insurgents evacuated 
 Navy Island, leaving thereon the property stolen 
 from the State of New York. (lov. Marcy 
 chartered the steamljoat Barcelona to go to the 
 island and recover the property, the State guarantee- 
 ing safety to the boat in the undertaking. In the 
 early morning the little steamer passed down the 
 river, landing at Black Rock to take on a military 
 force assigned from Fort Porter. Col. Kirby, the 
 Canadian officer of customs, concluded to inter- 
 rupt and confiscate the offending boat on her return 
 up the river ; he considering her equally as culpable 
 as was the Caroline. Opportunely, two armed Cana- 
 dian schooners were moored at Waterloo, opposite 
 Black Rock, which were Col. Kirby's means and 
 a strong wind up the river his opportunity. About 
 midday the armed vessels were anchored in mid- 
 
 \ 
 
 L 
 
I 
 
 Ceil. Scott and Col. Kirbv. 
 
 .19 
 
 
 stream awaiting the return of the Harci'loiui. (!en. 
 Scott was on the ground and had onlered two 
 24-i)onnders jjlated on the river bank abreast of the 
 belligerent vessels. Ihen two men rowed out to the 
 schooners from the American shore, conveying a mes- 
 sage from (len. Scott to Col. Rirby, stating that 
 the Baiceloiux was an American vessel engaged 
 in a lawful undertaking, and that if she was fired 
 upon, or otherwise illegally interrupted on her pas- 
 sage up the river, that he, (len. Scott, would sink 
 both vessels, with .shots from an American battery. 
 
 Both banks of the river were lined with expectant 
 and excited people. The cannon were charged and 
 the gunners were at their station. A like situation 
 WIS revealed by field glasses to be in order on the 
 schooners. All eyes were cast down stream for the 
 e\])ectant steamboat. About sundown she was 
 sighted stemming the current. Slowly she ap- 
 l)roached, while all hearts throbbed excitedly. 
 Finally, the steamer lajjped the schooners, yet, not 
 a gun was fired, not a funeral note was heard, as up 
 the rapids she paddled. 'Then the vessels weighed 
 anchor and drojjped into their moorings at Waterloo, 
 and the game of blulf between ("ol. Kirby and 
 (len. Scott was at an end. I'hey had met 'lefore 
 — at t'hippewa and Lundy's Lane. 
 
T''"'''''! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 I 
 I 
 ^ s 
 
 I. 
 
 I 
 * « 
 
 
The Orif>iuiil lVe$teni SleambOiit. 
 
 41 
 
 ^l>»^^•»''• 
 
 If 
 
 u 
 
 X 
 
 r 
 
 CIIAITILR IX. 
 
 riiK okuwNAi. \vi;sii:i<N sti .wii'.o.vr. 
 
 INTO the Nia{i;ara Kiver, in IHIK, was laun< hod 
 *■ the first steamboat known to the western einiiire. 
 There, under the shelter of Stiuaw Island, was luiilt 
 the steamboat Walk-in-tlic-Walcr, and on August 
 2r>th, foUowinjf, she started on her first passage over 
 the surface of Lake Kric, bound for Krie, Cleveland, 
 Sandusky and Detroit. On this course she devel- 
 oped a s])eed of above seven miles jier hour, which 
 was considered a complete success. 
 
 Thus eighty years ago Lake Krie was navigated 
 liy a single steam craft. Now, the steam tonnage 
 entering the port of Buffalo, during the season of 
 lake navigation, is greater than like entries of any 
 other port of the world. Such facts illustrate the 
 wonderfiil progress of western civilization anil set- 
 tlement, the first march of which was through the 
 river Niagara. 
 
 The first Lake Erie steaml)oat was built on the 
 spot of ground where were < onstru( ted three vessels 
 of the fleet with which Commodore Perry fought 
 and won the naval battle of lake Erie, September 
 10, \>^\'^ Ihe main portion of the fleet was built 
 at Prestpie Isle, now Krie. The illustration here 
 presented is a reproduction of IHUi, claimed by the 
 original publisher to have been from a sketch of the 
 commodore, taken on the spot. 
 
■■^■- I 
 
 S»i 
 
 i t 
 
 .1 
 
 jl 111,:, .;.Wi fr ''n?SS 
 
 
Conclusion. 
 
 48 
 
 a. 
 
 •n 
 
 8 
 
 ) 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Such is the world-renowned Niagara River, and 
 such were the historii hajtpenings thereon and 
 therel)v. Visitors to the l'an-Ameri(an Kxposition 
 will have am])le facilities to visit its every point. 
 All is hallowed ground. Ia< nrsion steamers and 
 •Steam ya<hts ])ly briskly o'er ^ navigable waters, 
 while steam cars, and <ars driven by electricity 
 engendered by the mighty cataract, whirl over its 
 shores from lake to lake. 
 
 The Niagara is a ])aradise for the angler. A prize 
 capture is a lusty bass taken from the swift trans- 
 |>arent current. Ye Clods 1 
 
1^ 
 
 44 
 
 The Niagara River. 
 
 si '■ 
 
 & r 
 
 BUFFALO. 
 
 Wlicic flaiiiini; swonls were in angc drew, 
 Where Re<l Jacket paddled his canoe, 
 And three Tiiayers were hanged in open view, 
 Was Old-time Buffalo ! 
 
 'ailed. 
 
 Where savage life in the main prev 
 Where approach was by Indian trail. 
 Then rail-trains met the gliding sail, 
 Was Progressive Buffalo ! 
 
 Where great lakes lay their tribute down. 
 Where miles of handsome homes aboimd, 
 And where its people own the town, 
 Is Pomestic Buffalo ! 
 
 Where are rural parks and cosy drives, 
 Where shaded lawns in Iwauty thrive. 
 And massive structures point the skies, 
 Is Picturesque Buffalo I 
 
 Where Niagara flows a rapid stream, 
 Where Nature's power replaces steam. 
 And hustling streets are smooth and clean. 
 Is Excelsior Buffalo ! 
 
 Lot zephyrs blow high or low, 
 " Put me off at Buffalo." 
 
 * ' i 'iy}l'!«iJ/i.i 
 
 ■m 
 
•'^ 
 
 
V't 
 
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