IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V.A 1.0 I.I 11.25 If u 1^ •^ 1^ 12.2 lAO 2.0 1.4 1.6 V] /] 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation aa WIST MAIN STRUT WltSTIR, NY. MSaO (716) 173-4303 4^ ) 5 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproduotions / Instltut Canadian de microreproductions historlques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiquas The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. y D n Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagAe Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pelliculie Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured mbps/ Cartes giographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ ReliA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re Mure serrie peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intirieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas tti filmAes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplAmentaires; L'Institut 8 microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a M possible de se procurer. Lea details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvant modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent axiger une modification dans la mithode normale da fllmaga sont indiquis ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagies Pages restored and/oi Pages restaurdes et/ou peliiculAes Pages discoloured, stained or foxei Pages d6color6es, tachetAes ou piquies Pages detached/ Pages ditachdes Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Qualiti inigale de I'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du materiel suppUmentaira Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible r~TI Pages damaged/ I I Pages restored and/or laminated/ r~71 Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ I I Pages detached/ r~7| Showthrough/ |~7| Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ I I Only edition available/ d e b ri r* n Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been ref limed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiallement obscurcies par un feuil*et d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont M filmies A nouveau de fa^on A obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X J 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X mw ^i^ea The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Ralph Pickard Bell Library Mount Alliion University The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in tSu upper left hand corner, left to right and iop to bottom, as many frames as rc£iuired. The following diagrams illustrate the method: 1 2 3 J2X L'examplaire filmi fut reproduit grAce A la ginirositA de: Ralph Pickard Bell Library Mount Alliton University Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de I'exemplaire f ilm6. et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimie sont filmto en commen^ant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniftre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont fiimis en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniire page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernijkre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — »- signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA. 11 est filmA A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 4 5 6 AMERICA, AND AMERICAN METHODISM. / ;?"% :\ "* /■ n AMERICA, AND AMERICAN METHODISM. BY THK REV. FREDERICK J. JOBSON. WITH A PREFATORY LETTER BY THE REV. JOHN HANNAH, D.D. /" |llustrat«b from ©rrgmal SIkltljes bg the ^ut^or, LONDON : J. S. VIRTUE, CITY ROAD, AND IVY LANE. SOLD BY VIRTUE, HALL, & VIRTUE, 25, PATERNOSTER ROW; AND JOHN MASON, 14, CITY ROAD, AND 66, PATERNOSTER ROW. if- f' ■ , o«rrr LONDON ! JAMES 3. VIRTUE, rRl^TE8, CITY ROAD. TO MY WIFE, MES. ELIZABETH JOBSON, .f"" %\m f Htus, ORiaiNALLY WRITTEN TO HER FROM AMERICA, \ AND NOW PUBLISHED IN ENGLAND, ARE HEREBY DEDICATED BY HER DEVOTED HUSBAND. Eastbuook, Bradford, Yorkshire, Jul^ 1, 1857. i^ U W^.!*^ t PREFACE. I WAS unexpectedly appointed, by the Wesleyan Con- ference assembled at Leeds, in August, 1855, to ac- company the Rev. John Hannah, D.D., to the General Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church of America, which was to open its sessions at Indiana- polis, in the valley of the Mississippi, on the 1st of May, 1856. On receiving this appointment, I ar- ranged for my wife's willing participation in our voyage. But this agreeable arrangement had to be given up before the time for my departure arrived. On account of the severe affliction of her aged mother, I had to leave Mrs. Jobson in England. So for ray own relief, as well as for the sake of my wife, I wrote home, from diiferent points of our long travel, as fre- quently and as fully as circumstances would allow. The following Letters, in substance and in most of their particulars, were thus written home; and, at the time, without the purpose of publication. I pub- lish them now, not only because friends of sound judg- ment and experience advise it, but for reasons which vm PREFACE. l! JTi seem to me to render their publication, in a great degree, a necessity and a duty. From the numerous inquiries made of me since my return, and urgent requests to speak and lecture on America, I should, if I were to answer all the inquiries, and yield to all the requests, be in danger of neglecting my ministerial charge. To end this diflficulty, and because an account seems due to the ministers and churches in whose name I went, I respectfully pre'-ent the account in this form. The false views which are entertained by many in England, through the reading of books containing caricatures rather than true portraits of America, also determine me to publish these Letters. I humbly hope they may tend to correct such views, at least, in the minds of some. Though written in connection with a particular object, — the interchange of Christian and friendly salutations by kindred churches, — still the following sketches, I trust, will prove of some interest to gene- ral readers, as well as to English ond American Me- thodists. They present, at least, frank outlines of the people and their manners, of the cities, scenery, and resources of America, as well as of its Methodism. I have striven to place the truth before readers, and if I fail it is not for want of purity of intent. I must, of course, anticipate one objection to those sketches, — that they aro the production of a mere visitor to a great country, and not of one long resident PREFACE. in it, and therefore not likely to have sound impres- sions of it. But I reply that the true charaotoristics of a people and of a country are often best scon by fresh eyes, and that they often lose force by long fumiliarity, so as to render failings undistinguishable from weak excellences. The best impressions from an ongnivod plate are those taken while it is new, and while the lines are fresh and clear. So it is with impressions from the mind, especially when they have boon placed on paper amid the scenes and objects described. The poet Gray — no dull observer himseK — has said that a word written on the spot is worth a curt-load of recol- lections. The saying eacourages mo to hope for a cordial acceptance of these sketches with the general reader, as well as with my Methodist brethren. And I congratulate myself that I have so far sucpoodod as to satisfy the mind of the Rev. Dr. Hannah, with its delicate appreciations. He having been present with me in the scenes described, has at my rocjuest read the Letters, that, if necessary, he might correct me in any erroneous view I might have taken. Tho following is his letter upon what I have written. F. J. J. ^.fr ^ DlDSIIDIlY, MANCIIKSTKn, ^jji'ii m/i, 1867. My dear Mr. Jobson, — I have read your Letters on " America, and American Methodism " with great satis- faction, and beg to express my personal thanks to you for the care and pains which you have taken in the preparation of them. They vividly rocull to mind the scenes and events through which we passed in our hite happy companionship, and which were of too extra- ordinary a character ever to bo forgotten. To the fidelity of your descriptions, as well us to their beauty and force, I give my willing testimony. You will also permit me to mention the peculiar gnitiliuiilion which you have afforded to mo in what you relate of the Methodist Episcopal Church generally, of the ever dear and honoured ministers and friends with whom wo enjoyed so pleasing a fellowship, and of the virtues and lives of exemplary saints departed. I follow you with affectionate sympathy in the details wliich you supply of the enthralled negro race, and of the Indian tribes, now, alas ! so visibly fading away. Tlie composition of your Letters, with their genial tone and spirit, will, 1 doubt not, connncnd them to your readers of every class. And I trust that the effect of the whole will prove to bo auxiliary to that closer fraternal union between the two large families of Methodism, whidi it was Ihe object of our mission to promote ; while it will not bo unfriendly to a freer interchange of kindly sentiments and feelings between the two chief connnunities of the Anglo-Saxon race. Believe me to bo, my dear ]\lr. ilobson, Yours ever, most truly, John IIa.n.nah. To the Rev. Frederick J. Jobion, CONTENTS. NJ LETTER I. VOYAGE OVER THE ATLANTIC. Dcpfirturt! from Liverpool — Passage down the Mersey and into the Irish Sea — Riirly Anxiety and DiseoTufort of Voyagers — First Diuuer "on Board" — The' " Africa" Sleaiiiship and its Aeeomino- diitions — Sketch of Character amons; i'asseujcers — Tlie Atlantic — I'erihms Slonti — Awful Night Scene — Chiiius of Seamen for lle- niembrancc — Sabbath Service — The Gulf Stream — Dangerous Fog — Sudden trausitiou into Smooth Water — New York Bay .... LETTER IL NEW YOEK. Fair way of judging of an American City and of American Manners — fiencral Sketch of New York — IJroadway — Monster 11; els — Ame- rican Ladies— Mixed Population — '{'one of Ecpmlily — Unforcigii Iccliug of an Englishman when he lands in Amcri(;a — Evening Pariy —Newspapers, Arts, Institutions, Chnrchcs, &c., in New York — Methodism — Novel Pulpit — Sabbath Services — Uise of Methodism iu New York 1 LETTER IIL piiiLAUEi,rniA. Mingled AnnoynnerR nnd Pleasures of Kaihvay Travelling in America — Route tbrongb New Jersey — Arrival at I'iiiladelpbia — Sceiu- aniouf^ the Negro ("oaclinien — Provoking Indillcreuce of American Hotel- keepers- Hotel Lite in Anu'riea— Exposure of the Young to Injurious Inlluences — Order nnd tU-pose of the (Quaker C'ity — Appearance of the Streets ami Public Buildings — Methodism in Phihulelphia — The Hall of ludepeudence — Fruukliu'u Tonib tO r zu CONTENTS. LETTER IV. ■WASHINGTON. PAGE Railway Journoy over Slave Territory — Arrival at Washington — Un- tilled-up Plan of the City — Population and Vice — iMunuers of the " Representatives " — Gaiety of Dress — Dandy Negroes — The Negro Bazaar — Tiie Capitol — Houses of Congress — Scene in the House of Representatives — Contrast to the Britisli House of Commons — Political Parties in the United States — President's House — Congress Chajdains — Terrific Tlnniderstorni — Plainness of the American Chief Magistrate 58 LETTER V. BALTIMORE. Origin of the City — Gencrnl Description of it — American Aristocracy — Coloured Population — Evils of Slavery — The "Liberia" Project — "Washington Monument" — "Battle Monument" — "Green Mount Cemetery" — Methodist Cemetery, or, "the Mount of Olives" — Ini- ])ortauce of Methodism in Baltimore — Uelics of Early Jlethodism — Record of Early Labourers — Coh)ured Churches of Methodists — Preaching and ^[euiorable Scene of Excitement at the A''''icau Mc- thodist Church in Sharpe Street — Scriptural Hopes for tiie Eman- ciputiou of the Enslaved Race 73 LETTER VL THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. — CINriNNATI. Railway from Baltimore to Cumberland — Company of Methodist Jfin- isters — The Hiver Potomac — Town of Cumberland — Hotel Customs, and Iced Water — Striking View from the Hill above Cumberland — Railway over the .\lleghaiiics— CImracler of the Scenery — Town of Wheeling — Policy which dictated the Forniatiou of the great Rail- way to the West — Names of Anunicau Towns — Free State of Ohio — The located Minister — Horrors of Slavery — The Ohio Hivtr — Kentucky left behiiul — Arrival at ( incinnati 92 LETTER VIL INDIANAPOLIS. State of Indiana: its Rapid Growth — The City of Indianapolis — His Excelleucy the Governor and his House — Alethodism in the State and in the City — Public Keligious Services — American Preaching — A Bishop's Sermon — The Sabbath School — A J,ove-fcast — Ame- rican Fires — I'olitical Life — A Stump Orator — The Hallot-box — An Inner Circle iii .\mcrican Society — Southern Visitors— (Jlimpscs of Slave-life — An Irislnnan's Hull — Ministerial Intercourse — Sad News from England 108 CONTENTS. Xlll LETTER VIII. PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA FROM 1773 TO 1792. PAOB Early Labourors : Embury, Webb, Boardman, Pilraoor, Asbury, Straw- bridge, and Williams — Spiritual Lifelessness of other Churehes; and their Quickening, by the Introduction of Methodism — Laudable Example of the Rev. Mr. .Tarratt, a Clergyman of the Established Church — Mr. Rankin sent by Mr. Wesley — Question of the Sacra- mental Ordinances — Disturbing EtTcct of the Revolution on Me- thodism — SuH'crings of the I'rcac'icrs — Settlement of the Country, and Re-organisation of Methodism — Labonrs of Bishop Asbury, Garrettsou, and Jesse Lee — First General Conference, and Revision of the Coustitutiou of American Methodism 126 LETTER IX. PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA FROM 1792 TO THE PRESENT TIME. Continued Persecution, Privation, and Pifliculty of the Prcaclicrs and Missionaries — Forest Preaching — Reniarkabli! Outpourings of the Holy Spirit, and Striking Conversions — Canip-nu'clings — (ireat Jlul- titudcs assembled, aiul Extraordinary Good cli'eeted — Revival at Baltitnorc — Extension of Methodism to Canada — Union of Canadian and British Methodism — Present Pros])erify of Canadian Methodism — Energy of Methodism in the United States — Its Vast Umlertak- ings — Not Free from Division and Disturbance — Slavery — Separation of North from South — Charges against F. A. Harding and Bishop Andrew — Resolutions of Northern Methodism against Slavery — Fraternal Connnuuieatiou of British Methodism with Anti-Slavery Methodism iu America 1*43 LETTER X. METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. Frnueis Asbiiry — Dr. Coke — Asbury's Peculiar Adaptations for Ame- rica — His (Capacity for Labour — llis 'rirclessness in 'rravelling — His Ai)negation of Sell' — llis Primitive Manners — His Economy and Charily — .XiU'cilote of the sceptical Doctor — liU-'t Days of Asbury — ll's last Sermon and triiunphant Death — His (.'on\ert, I'imch, the Negro — Puncli beconu'S a I'reacher — Conversion of the perse- cuting Overseer — Punch's Old Age — His Prayer answered — His happy Death ' 156 XIV C0NTENT3, LETTER XI. MKTHOmST LAB0URKK8 IN AMERICA. PAOG Bishop M'Kcndrce— Clcnrness of liis Conversion— Doubts his Call to the Ministry — His rrejiulicos ngninst Bisiiop Asbiiry dispelled, and his entire dovotcdncss to Methodism— His Labonrs in the West, and his personal Holiness and Sucecss — Elected Bishop — Compa- nionship with Asbiiry — Pleasinj; Camp-meeting Scene — M'Ken- dree's Farewell to his Hrctiiren — Hia last Days and happy Departure — Bishop Georpe — Habits of Prayer — Powers as a Preaclier — Kindliness of Spirit — Anecdote of the Young Preacher and the Bishop — Preeborn Garrcltson — His ha])py Face and happy Charac- l2r — Remarkable Conversion — Sets IVee liis Negroes — His ^Ministry — Suffering for Christ — Pleasant old Age — Rapturous Death — Jesse Lee — Bishop Roberts — Bishop Hedding — Bishop Emory — John Easter— Dr. Stepiicn Olin, &c 112 LETTER XII. THE OENKHAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS, Appearance of the Assembly — The Bishojis — The Delegates from the Far West — Patriarchal Labourers — Tiieir Jealousy of Declension — Style of their Oratory — Dr. Jacob Young — Dr. Peter Cartwright, or "Uncle Peter" — His Preaching — Strange Auccdot'i — "Father Fin- ley" — His Indian Labours — Stpiire "Grey Eyes," the Indian Preacher — Affecting Scene in the Conference — Order and Courtesy of the Conference— Its Reception of Foreign Representatives . . . LETTER XIII. THE OENEUAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. Election of olliccrs — Calling the Roll of Delegates — Appointment of Committees — Opening Address of the Bishops — Statistics of Ame- rican Methodism — Education a\.J Literature — Coloured People's College — Periodicals — Missions to tlie Far West — To the Indians 202 to -To Settlers from Gernumy, the North of Kurope, &c. — To Liberia, Sweden, Norway, S:c. iVc, -Status of Methodism iu Anu'rica — The new Pro|)osilion rt'speeling Slave-holding Members — Judgment of the Bishops thereon 220 LETTER XIV. THE OENERAIi CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. Conference Business — Nature of Committees and their Mode of Proce- dure — Chief Subjects of Interest in tlie Proeeedings of Conference — New iMetr()|i(ililau Church for New York — 'I'he Bible Caiu-iC — Cause of Religious Ediu:ation — A])pc«l»from ('ensured and Exjiclled Minis- ters— E.vtcnsiou of Time for a Minister's Stay in a Circuit — Dis- cussion rc.tpecling tlie Ollice of "Presiding Elder" — Grand Debate respecting Slavery 236 CONTENTS. XV LETTER XV. SLAVERY IN AMERICA. P4GE Modified Cliaracter of Slavery in Towns — Enormity of its Evils in the South, and on the Plantations — Its Corrupting Intluenecs both on the Families of Slaveholders and on the Slaves — Sophism, that Skives are " Happy and Contented," exposed, and also the assertion that their Condition is Analofrous to that of the English Operative — Nationally Disorganising tendencies of Slavery — Hopes for its Exter- mination from existing Agencies: and Confidence that it will he hrought to an End, founded on the Divine Character 252 LETTER XVI. THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. Pce\iliar Look of the Race — Mongolian Descent — Noble Original Qua- lities— rHospitality and Bravery — Degraded State of Woman — Ra- pidly decreasing number of Red !Men — Christian Labourers among them — John Stewart, the Negro — Father Finley — Indian Converts and Preachers — Remarkable Occurrence among the "Flat Head" Indians — Banishment of the Red Race to the Far West — Melan- choly Prospect of their Extinction 271 LETTER XVII. THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. Our " Farewell " to the Conference, and Departure from Indianapolis — Railway to St. Louis — Forests and Prairies— Gigantic Scale of Ame- rican Scenery — Rapid Glance at St. Louis — Embarld Spii- ni;\nls, with ani])le iinger-rijigs and abunchmco of gold and jewelry, returning to Cuba ; — tliese, and otliera of 8 VOYAGE OVER THE ATLANTIC. mark and interest, have walked, conversed, and lounged together by day, and in the evening have grouped themselves together at the tables according to their respective tastes and amusements. But with all their great variety of character and pursuit, I havo not heard or seen anything in their conduct consurablo on the ground of morality; I have not witnessed any excessive drinking of wine or spirituous liquors; I have not heard a profane word spoken ; and, with tho one ludicrous exception named, there has boon ttU evident endeavour to be mutually agreeable. But the SKA — " the many-sounding sea," as IFomor long since called it — has been the chief subject of my observation and thought since I began this voyiigo ; and it has alternately tilled me with awe, witli wonder, and with delight. At the present it is calm and placid — the undisturbed image of tranquillity and potico ; at other times it has been broken all around into heav- ing, tossing billows — the emblems of disquietude ; and anon I have seen it rise up in its stormy i'liry, and heave its mountain masses into tho air and against tho ship — as tho dread sign of unappeasable anf sea-beach onwards, farther than the eye could : reach, but with its lighthouses in front and fully in view ; on our left was Sandy Hook, a barren piece of land ; all around us were vessels of different kinds, with their white sails spread, and all making for one point called " the Narrows," through which ships enter into the harbour of New York ; — these were all reflected clearlj^ and at full length, in the polished mirror of the ;sea. We have since entered into the bay, and have on our left Staten Island, sprinkled all over its wooded slopes with villas and summer residences. We have Brooklyn in view on our right ; the city of New Jersey, }and the thicket of New York shipping before us ; while, lat different points of our entrance, and on small islands Jwhich dot the bay, are the signs of defensive forti- l^ications. The bay itself opens and expands most mag- nificently. Nothing finer of its kind could possibly be conceived. It is twenty- five miles in sweep, and appears ready to receive within its vast embrace all the fleets of the world. Huge, high-built steamboats, with grass- hopper-like limbs, are plying from point to point; and 18 VOYAGE OVER THE ATLANTIC. some are passing us, towards the Narrows, for Halifax and Boston. The Cunard Pier is now immediately before us, with American friends upon it, already recog- nising us as the Methodist ministers sent from England to visit them ; and they are waving their hats in token of their readiness to welcome us to their native shores. 80 that, though I cannot write any more at present, you may confidently conclude, when reading this, that we are safely landed on the continent of America. , for Halifax immediately ready recog- [•om England bats in token lative shores, ■e at present, ng this, that merica. LETTER II. NEW YORK. Fair way of judging of an American City and of American Maimers — General Sketch of New York — Broadway — Monster Hotels — American Ladies— Mixed PopiUation — Tone of Equality — Unforciijn feeling of au Englishman when he lands in America — Evening Party — Newspapers, Arts, Institutions, Churches, &c., in New York — ^Methodism — Novel Pulpit — Sab')ath Services — Rise of Methodism in New York. We are now in the city of New York, the great empo- Irium and metropolis of America, and you will naturally [desire to know what are my impressions of it. Viewed [in relation to the brief period of its existence, it is un- [doubtedly a most astonishing city. It has not, as eveiy Jone knows, the imposing grandeur and attractive features '^of the old cities of Europe. It has no massive time- ' stained castles, palaces, and cathedrals, which fill our Iminds with the associations of stirring and stately scenes Jand transactions of past ages. But when one considers fthat three centuries ago the ground on which it stands |was covered with a dense forest, which sheltered wild lanimals and a few red-skinned savages, and that now, ^mong the great cities of the world, it is second only to fliondon in the extent of its commerce. New York, whicli mt the census of 1850 contained as many as 629,810 inhabitants, must be reckoned as unrivalled in its rapid 20 NEW YORK. growth and progress. It is iu this light only, I conceive, that America and its numerous towns and cities can be fairly viewed, not iu comparison with ancient countries and capitals, which have had the advantage of cultivation and growth through many centuries, but in relation only to the period for which the land has been possessed by a civilised community. Of course I am not yet sufficiently acquainted with America, or with the manners of its people, to pronounce a decided judgment upon them ; but, from what I have already seen, I have no hesitation in saying that, for want of this consideration, many of the disparaging remarks and observations have been made by English travellers which have so greatly wounded and irritated the Americans. Many of such travellers have lived in very different scenes. Some of them may have been softly and luxuriously brought up in ancient cities ; while others have been nurtured amid highly-culti\ atod rustic landscapes. All have seen, more or less, their own fruitful country of hill and dale inclosed, partitioned, and smoothed by plough and harrow. They have seen it crowded, in almost every nook and corner, with the signs of elegant thrift mingled with the weather-beaten memorials of past ages ; they have beheld the baronial mansion frowning with era- battled parapet over surrounding moat, the squire's seat peeping through the long-drawn avenue of elms or beeches, the merchant's country house resting on closely- cropped lawn, and, sometimes, the labourer's cottage half smothered in roses and honeysuckles ; they have been accustomed to receive, from their very childhood, it may be, the most respectful, if not obsequious, attentions in the presence of servants and dependents : and so wlicii they come to this newly-discovered continent, and sec NEW YORK. 21 I conceive, ities can be it countries f cultivation elation only ssessed by a & sufficiently nners of its upon them ; 10 hesitation ion, many of 8 have been 3 so greatly lany of such Lcs. Some of y brought up lurturcd amid 1 have seen, hill and dale plough and almost every thrift mingled ftt ages; they ing with em- e squire's scat 10 of elms or ing on closely - r's cottage half hoy have been Idhood, it may ?, attentions in luul so when hiout, and sec its fragmentary clearings, its snake-fenced plots of land, its unfinished towns and cities, and meet its somewhat rough, unpolished, and unceremonious people, thoso English travellers pour forth their censures and com- plaints most unsparingly. Such conduct is manifestly unjustifiable, and may well prove vexatious to thoHO who are thus dealt with by foreigners. There is nothing which may not be made to appear deformed or ridicu- lous if it be viewed through a distorting meduim or from a morally oblique angle. If caricature, and not true portrait, be the object sought, it is not necessary to cross the wide Atlantic to find it. John Bull and his corn-fields will serve as well for that purpose as IJrothor Jonathan and his forests and clearings; and for any Englishman to carry with him over the seas the pattern of his own little " angle-land," and try to nuiko it fit upon a continent which is equal in extent to all Europe, and, if he fails, grow scornful and angry, savours somewhat of the pettishness of a spoilt child. Countries and their inhabitants, like other things, ought to bo \iewed in their own relations. I shall endeavour to remember this while travelling here ; and though, in my letters home, I may not unfrequently make com- parisons between what is found on this side of tho water and what we are familiar with in our own beloved country, it will not be with the purpose of din- paraging America or glorifying England, but simply with the aim of making myself more readily under- stood. Viewed thus apart from prejudice and liUropeim uhho- riutions. New York is, as I have already said, a moat wonderful city. It is situated at the southern jxiiiit of a tongue-like island, and has as fine a site both for foreign 22 NEW YORK. commerce and internal trade, and for drainugo and healthy ventilation, as can possibly be desired. With the large outspreading harbour (which I noticed in my first letter) on the east, and on the west the nuijcstic river Hudson, extending some 170 miles up into tho interior of the country, and with the land on whijili iho cit}'^ is built sloping gradually down from the (U'ntro to the water on all sides, a more advantageous position for trade, liealth, and prospect, could not bo found. It is related of the aboriginal Indians, that when first dis- covered by the enterprising Dutch navigator, Ihoy showed themselves most unwilling to part with this piece of land at any price ; and this well might be, when its beauty of situation and midtiplied facilities are considered. The general plan of the city is regular, but cliiefly so in tho newest parts northwards. Tho main streets, running south and north, are called "Avenues," and are some ten or eleven in number. Between these there are narrower streets; and at right angles with those there are "Cross Streets," Avhich are diMliiiguished as "First Street," "S-cond Street," "Third Street," and so on to the extent of some luindreds. The sijuares of building between tlie avenues and priiuiipid cross streets are named "Blocks" by the inhabitants; so that in giving directions for u certain residence tliey would say. "It is in such a Block, between tho Fourth Avenue (say) and Fifteenth Street." This arrangement is \{>ry serviceable to n stranger seeking any house in the city. The older streets at tlie south <>ii(l of New York still bear tho names oiiginally given to them. The public buildings do not seem large, nor ure they S3""'' ii. NEW YORK. 23 inugo mul cd. With iced in my le nmjotH li(>re, as there are in Liver- pool and J^jndon, but there is no public indication of S(pialid povei'ty or pauperism. I have not yet seen u NEW YORK. 27 of them are )th, adorned f tlie more 'immed with there is not the face, and sast tinge of isive. Great LS and move- jrtly English ' New York: iplexion is as this city sur- !. There are r3 from diffe- y state of the ag New-Eng- g Westerners, mia, some of rhly-clad con- ad yet all rush it feeling that ve States — and ides, Irish, and er part of the reside in back IS in our Wap- icar the water. >pravity behind •e are in Liver- ic indication of not yet seen a beggar in any of the streets. It is well known that I want need not be felt by any one who is willing to work, and therefore begging is not encouraged. The districts [inhabited by the poorest Irish are, as is usual in our [own land, filthy and wretched enough, as are also some 'parts occupied by other foreigners and by sailors ; but there are no cripples exposing their withered limbs to ^.excite compassion, and no sweepers at the crossings holding out their tattered hats for "your honour's" pence, as there are in London. The coach-drivers, as a class, I should say, are superior to our cabmen, and so are their coaches superior to our cabs, being larger, and tetter lined and trimmed, but you have to pay propor- |ionably more for their use. A dollar is little for coach fkire here ; and when you pay your fare at the end of a drive, however liberal you may be, there is no tip of the hat, and no " Thank you, sir ! " but, as in the " stores," when you make your purchases, the most perfect indif- ference appears. In this, as in other things, an Eng- lishman finds he is in a republican land, where all men fre declared to be equal. ; And yet, with all these American peculiarities, the irst great wonder to an English visitor who has travelled m other foreign parts is, that what he sees is so sub- i^antially J'^nglisli ; it is more so even than in Ireland W Scotland. At least, I may say this is my own iprcssion. On landing at Calais, iJovdogne, or Os- ^nd, and when advancing into the interior of France, [henish Prussia, Belgium, or Holland, wliich are com- irativoly near to our own country, the looks, language, fcss, and manners of the people are so difi'erent and |rangc, that an l^^nglish traveller at once sees and feels ^at ho is on foreign gi'ound ; but it is not so on 38 NEW YORK. landing in America. Though more than 3000 miles from home, yet he finds himself surrounded by men and women with English features, similarly dressed, and speaking the language with which he has been familiar from childhood. There are the American character- istics which I have described, and there is a sort of sing-song, nasal drawl, in the utterance of some, which is much inferior to the full, hearty tones of the voice of an Englishman ; but the great characteristics of feature, dress, and manners are unmistakeably the same, so that an Englishman says as soon as he enters American society, " We are all brethren : such as I am, these are : they are but Englishmen living on another side of the Atlantic." We have seen much of private and social life in this city. I am entertained by the Kev. Dr. Osbon, of Mulberry Street ; and Dr. Hannah by Ralph Mead, Esq., of the Second Avenue, not far from me ; and we have both received the most kind and hospitable atten- tion. We have also passed some very pleasant hours in evening parties, to which we have been in"ited. In one of them we met Dr. Bangs, the historian of Ame- rican Methodism ; Bishop Baker, just returned from his visit to the churches of California ; Dr. Kidder, editor of the Stoichnj School Advocate ; Mr. Harper, of the large book-publishing firm ; Mr. Hall, a father in American Methodism ; several ministers of the city, and many ladies. The house in which we spent the evening (Mr. Truslow's) is large and handsomely furnished. The rooms wore brilliantly lighted up, and the evening was spent cheerfully and religiously. After free and friendly conversation in groups and pairs, we went down in couples to the eating- room to :>«i •every NEW YORK, 29 3000 miles | by men and ,f ressed, and ^ ;en familiar | character- | .8 a sort of some, which the voice of ;s of feature, lame, so that rs American m, these are : I' side of the jocial life in ■. Dr. Osbon, Ralph Mead, me ; and we pitable atten- leasant hours L incited. In jrian of Ame- irncd from his viddor, editor ir, of the large : in American ty, and many the evening ■ely furnished, ad the evening in groups and eating-room to partake of our evening meal. The eating-. oom of an American private house is that in which all the meals are taken ; it is usually in the lower story, and is plainly fitted up, very much after the manner of refreshment- rooms in France. The meal comprised solid food and light confectionaries ; and with it there were " crackcs" and bon-bons for the juveniles, as there are with us at Christmas evening parties. Afterwards we sang, read the Scriptures, and prayed together; and when we separated for our respective abodes, at something like eleven o'clock, I went to mine at Dr. Osbon's with the feeling that a more cheerful, sociable, and happy even- iing 1 had never spent away from home. Both Dr. Ilannan and myself were favourably impressed with -the general intelligence and religious excellence of the company. The ladies, as did also the gentlemen, showed themselves to be well read in history, and in general literature ; and all were ready to converse on experi- mental and practical holiness. There was no brag, no inquisitive interrogations, which some visitors to •'America have complained of. Gentleness, goodness, -and deep veneration for England, and for English 'Methodism, were ardent in all ; and they openly depre- Icated, in the very strongest manner, any quarrel of ■their country with ours. The cheerful conversation, not altogether unmixed with heartj'' laughter, of this o^nd other evenings, fully relieved me from the sombre pmpression I had caught of American character in the tusincss streets of New York. In some of the streets verytliing human looked so rigidly grave, that one tlmost thought it would be a crime punishable at law or an American to perpetrate a joke or a pun ; but in 3 social evening party there was full proof of a 30 NEW YORK. healthy, buoyant, and joyous spirit in the American people. The newspapers of America, while far more nume- rous than with us, seem much inferior to ours. They contain very little "news" comparatively, and of that there is still less to be relied upon as correct or true. The attacks made by the newspaper-writers on public and private character are most dishonourable ; and it is plain that too many of them unscrupulously pander to the low, vulgar appetites of poor fallen human nature for gossip and for scandal. This profligacy of the press is deeply deplored by the better classes among the Americans. Partisanship, too, is here very apparent. It is truly amusing to converse with the Americans on public men and public questions. To hear some of them speak of their public men, one would almost be ready to conclude that every prominent character in the United States belonged either to the band of spotless patriots or the lowest class of scoundrels. Many of the people seem incapable of forming any moderate judgment of their public men ; and every political question, however tem- porary be the excitement it raises, is generally spoken of as constituting a '* great crisis" in the history, if not in the very existence of the States. The works of art here are creditable to a country which is in its youth, but, as might be expected, the}' are very inferior to what we have in England. The general talent for sculpture must not be estimated by Hiram Power's "Greek Slave" and "Pierced Indian," which we saw in the Hyde Park Exhibition of I80I. America produced Benjamin West, and may yet produce even a greater painter; but, in the raw and juvenile '■^' Hous by its frontf over Key. amou] ;yeaz-l3 is doij persoi| 'inferic =execu<| -and fii a largi '^est s( |n itsj If thel Lnieri NEW YORK. 31 American Lore nunie- urs. They md of that 3ct or true. s on public [e; and it is [y pander to man nature of the press among the It is truly n public men hem speak of y to conclude Jnitcd States latriots or the ! people seem ment of their however tera- lerally spoken history, if not t to a country expected, they iigland. The estimated by ■reed Indian," )ition of 1851. ay yet produce and juvenile li N productions of her existing school, there is no promise of him. The native pictures here partake more of the character of the French school than of the English, and are very deficient in sobriety and repose. The German artists have some good pictures exhibiting here, chiefly of alpine and cataract scenery in Norway, and being similar in their subjects to those which they annurily exhibit in London. The New York " Crystal Palace" is now in a very dilapidated and forlorn condition, and is seen at once to be what it really is — a most shabby imitation, and a miserable failure. There are many charitable and benevolent institutions in New York, and they are very generously supported. There i',re also some excellent literary and educational {establishments, and these are as well sustained. The largest public building in the city is the "Bible Society House and Depository." It occupies a whole "block" by itself, and, while six stories high throughout, has a frontage of some 700 feet. Dr. Hannah and I went over this important establishment, conducted by the llev. Dr. Holdich, one of its secretaries. Its issues amount to three- fourths of a million copies of the Bible fyearly ; and, as all the printing, stitching, binding, &c., Ms done on the premises, it employs a great number of ipersous. I remarked there, as elsewhere, the general inferiority of the paper upon which their printing is lexecuted by the Americans, and also the want of breadth tnd fulness in the type. We had each presented to us large octavo copy of the Book of Psalms, in the very 3ost style of the society's printing ; but \vhile superior itself, yet, when placed beside an English copy ^f the same size, and challenged to say which was the Lmcrican, I had no difficulty in doing so. as NEW YORK. i»': ... Our own " Methodist Book Concern," as it is some- what loosely named, is also a very extensive establish- ment. It is situated in Mulberry Street, and has per- formed on its premises all things relating to the books, periodicals, and newspapers, except the manufacture of paper, so that, with its numerous issues, it also employs many persons. Dr. Kidder kindly conducted us over the establishment ; and we were gratified to find here, as in the Bible Society House, how many clean and neatly-dressed young females were engaged in sorting, stitching, and ornamental binding. But by this time you will begin to be impatient for some account of religion, and particularly of Methodism, as observed by us in New York. I have not had much time to acquaint myself with other churches in the city than those of our own people, nor am I likely to have the opportunity of doing so before I leave it ; but, from the number and size of the ecclesiastical structures which I have seen, I should conclude that the churches here are numerous and flourishing. All the buildings devoted to public worship of every Christian denomination are called " churches," and of these there are some 300 in the city and its suburbs, belonging principally to the Protestant Episcopalians, the Presbyterians, the Bap- tists, and the Methodist Episcopalian Church. The Jews have here some thirteen synagogues ; the Roman Catholics have a large misshapen cathedral and several other buildings in different parts, and there are struc- tures of various dimensions and forms belonging to almost all the different nations and to the principal sects in Europe. Tlie Sabbath is much better observed in New York than in London or Liverpool. The streets are far more NEW YORK. 33 t is some- establish- id has per- , the books, lufacture of Iso employs ,ed us over 3 find here, r clean and [ in sorting, inpatient for • Methodism, ,ot had much js in the city ikely to have it ; but, from ictures which ihurches hero dings devoted omination are . some 300 in cipally to the ms, the Bap- ;hurch. The ; the Eoman a and several lere are struc- belonging to principal sects in New York ts are far more quiet, the pleasure-seekers fewer, and the purchases, if iiiado, are luore concealed from public observation. Amontr all classes there seems to be more reverent attention paid both to religion and its ministers. Methodism has not proporticniably, it is said, the position and influence in New York that it has in some other cities of the United States, but it nevertheless stands forth prominently, and numbers 7000 church- members, irrespective of the many thousands who are general attendants at its public services. Dr. Hannah [and I were alternately in two of its principal churches on Sunday last, and were much gratified with what we found. The churches in which we preached were good substantial 'structures of the Grecian style of architecture, and, like all the i^merican churches I have seen, are fitted up so as to secure as much comfort to the congregation as practicable. The aisles are carefully matted, the pews carpeted and cushioned ; and distributed throughout the clmrches are leaf-fans for the use of the congregations in hot weather. Happily for us, the weather has not been very hot since we came to New York , the sight of a large congregation fanning itse' . lor relief would not be the most helpful accompaniment to ministers officiating, and unaccustomed to suck a waving scene. These fans, however, are really necessary for the relief ^of the people when the heat sets in. You will know that Jthe extremes of heat and cold here are greater than in )ld England. The American pulpit is, in my view, far preferable to fcho English. It is simply a reading-desk at the front of low platform, of the width of the connnunion rails, wul at the back of them. It is not boxed-up and im- prisoning to the preacher as our cupboard-like pulpits 34 NEW YORK. are, but is open at the back and sides, while behind it, against the wall, is a seat long enough to hold several ministers. The accompanying pen-and-ink sketch will best explain it. X FT.. (If ! roifftiiifiiriL fi 1. Scat. 6. Centre Tftlile. 2. rial form. «. Steps. 3. Desk. 1. Slep. 4, Lamp. There are several advantages to a minister in a pulpit of tliis kind. Ho is more free than he can be when closely boarded up on all sides ; ho also feels himself to be in more intimate association with his people ; while his ministerial brethren who may be present are seated behind, and out of his sight. With the usages of NEW YORK. 33 behind it, Id several ketch will 4. Lnmii. ir in a pulpit win be when Ah himself to )i'oplc; while mt are seated ho usages oi America, there is sometimes a drawback felt in the other ministers on the platform stepping forward, lookinj^ over and taking hold of the officiating minister's hymn- book. This prevents the feeling of separation for the work of the Preacher which an English minister in accustomed to have. But this is a mere circumstanco that need not be admitted, and so must not be received as a reason for objecting to the adoption and use of the American pulpit. On the Sabbath morning Dr. Hannah conducted tlio public service and preached ii? ^lulberry Street Churcli, and I preached for the Missionary Society in the Seventh Street Church. I was not very well prepared for my work, for, tlirough the change from rocking in my bertli upon the ever-moving sea to the stillness of the solid earth, I could not sleep for a moment in the night pre- ceding. And, like Dr. Hannah, I was not a lit tie annoyed with the hymn-book. It is not only different from our own in the general arrangement of its subjects, which, perhaps, may be an improvement, but, regurdlemK of Mr. Wesley' warning against doing so (us found in the truly characteristic and sensible preface affixed to the collection of hymns he published for the use of hia people), our friends here have altered some of the hynnis, both in the words and verses. They have mudo what, no doubt, they consider to be "improvements;" but they have thereby supplied additional proof of the truth of Mr. Wesley's printed declaration, that ctthcj's are not able to mend his hymns either in sense or verse. At the second hymn the congregation siit to sing, or rather to hear the choir sing, — this inerenscd my annoyance; but .afterwards, in setting forth riirist us " the Uoot of Jesse," who should " stand as an (Misign for > 'I I t 1 i ill! iiSu IT 86 KEW YORK. the people," and give to them that trust in Jliin "u glorious rest," I overcame these petty anuoyuncoM, uiul forgot for a time my loss of sleep ou the night prucuding. The afternoon was spent chiefly in convorHaliou with some old Methodist friends, who, several yours ago, emigrated from Lincoln, and who had travelU'tl many miles to see us, and to talk with us about the " old city." Their inquiries, both as to persona and ovuutK, were numerous, as you will suppose; and though greiitly benelited temporally by coming to America, yot they showed strong affection for their native laud. After a somewhat protracted interval between the morning and evening services, I went, at half-piiwt seven o'clock, to conduct the service and ])r(>acli in Mulberry Street Church, while Dr. Hannah w«Mit to attend a public missionary meeting in th() Sc'vunth (Street Church, presided over by Dr. llangH, and when' they made the doctor and myself life-nu'UiberM ol tlic American Methodist Missionary Society. ThtiMO Sab- bath evening missionary meetings we sliould not ha/iinl in England, lest they tiliould not fully accord with the sacred character of the day ; but our American brethren hold them on that day, and seem to bo HuliHlied with them. I found less annoyance in the evening tlum I did in the morning, and had more enlargiuncut and power to proclaim the Word of l^ife. After the Mcrvicc many mhiisters and friends crowded round me to bid me welcome to America. Dr. Hannah's minislrntioih here liave been characterised by great hpiritutd uni;ti(in; and it is surprising to iiud how many there are who remember his visit to this country tliii'ty-two years ago: tlien, us now, his ministry was liighly oMtinnited. The Methodist ministers in this city have statiuns NEW YORK. 37 'uucoH, ami prucocUiif?. Hutioii with yours ug<>> clk'd many "old city." ivcntis, woio ugU gvfiitly ■u, yut tUoy 1. butwoou tliu ut hall-past d \)vcach in uidi W(Mit. to \\w Hi'vcnth s, and whcri" nd)i'i'M ot tho ThiiKti Suh- hl not ha/.ard (!(ird with tin' iiniii hrtitinvn Hiiliwlii'd witli selling tlmn 1 irgoim-nt untl [ov tho Moi'virt' lid 1110 to hill iiiiiiiKtrutioii>- iluul unction; thoro aro wIk' ity-twu you I'* ly I'Hliniiitod. huvu btutioii!) rather than clro'iits, for their public labours are spe- cially directed to their separate churches. They have good "parsonages," as their residences are named, and, jipparently, larger incomes than their brethren in Eng- land ; but, when all things are taken into account, it is a question whether they are really better provided for than English Methodist ministers. INfany of them are said to have taken good advantage of the rising cir- cumstances of their country, and to have multiplied for use in advanced life any money they may have had, so that they are less dependent upon an "annuitant" or . " auxiliary fund" for support in old age than our minis- ters are at home. I apprehend that this will be less and less the case ap *ho. land becomes occupied, and Tnoney yields smallt : irns. AVith this foresight, renewed efforts are n , .oing made in the churches of New York to provide suitable maintenance for " s\iper- numeraries," or superannuated and worn-out ministers. Tho " presiding elders," who are very much like our "chairmen of districts," hold tho "quarterly confer- -V ences," or, as we should say, " quarterlj' meetings," for the several circuits, and take a principal part in the ; administration of discipline, so that the resident minis- il'Ms are thereby relieved of their less agreeable duties. ;^ll(>re there is a desire expressed by some to transf(>r |piich semi-episcopal duties to the individual pastors of ^Itlic cliurches; but I cannot see reason in any of tho ^tiitonients I have heard to believe that either the Iju'ople or the proacliers woiild bo benefited by tho I, 111 go. I liavo heard also some complaints whi'^pered by the uorc (l(>vo\it and spirituiil on tlie noglrot of attendance It class-meetings by too many oi llie members; and, 1 ! !*> 38 NEW YORK. m\i from what I can learn, the renewal f the quarterly tickets, a?" tokens of church-membership, is not deemed so impo) ..at a ministerial duty as it is with us in Eng- land ; but, with these partial relaxations among some, the prevailing characteristic of the Methodists in New York is uudoubteul)^ that of earnest, >5ealous godliness. They have evident delight in conversing on Christian holiness, and on the means for its attainment. Books on this subject are eagerly sought, and extensively read by them. Tliey are also careful to sanctify private and social intercourse by the reading of God's Word and by prayer. All thi.. is the more gratifying when it is remembered that it was in this city of New York that llie first Methodist society in America was formed ninety years ago. The origin of the society was as follows : — A few Irish Methodist emigrants not having here the means and ordinances of religion to which they had been ac- customed at home, fell into the fashions, and began to j')iu in the "paf^.imes," of tlie imregenerate world, when, one evening, as tl\ey were togeclier playing at cards, a good woman of the company, who had not joined in their evil practice, was roused by what she saw to administer reproof to the others; she snatched up the caiils from the table, threw them into tlie lire, and, with all the power of sincere and earnest rebuke, cried to riiilip Kmbury, a fulk-n local i)rcachcr, "You nuist preacl) to us, or we shall all go to licll together, and then our blood will be required at your auls!" Tl;i> led to the first jNIethodist mee'ing and the preaching ol the first Methodist si'rmon u\ Airu'rica : the rejn'ovcd and now repentiint Philip p-euched to five persons in hi own hired house. NEW YORK. 39 be quarterly i not deemed h us in Eng- among some, lists in New us godliness, on Christian nent. Books tensively read y private and Word and by o- when it is ew York that t was formed lows:— A fe:v ore the means [ had been ac- , and began to .Micrate world, lier playing at ^^•llo had not y what she saw xe snatched n\) o the tiro, and, it rebuke, cried er, " You must together, and hands!" Till. AC preaching ol i: the roprovrd ve persons in hl- Such meetings were continued, and were soon after- wards attended by Captain Webb, a Methodist, from IJristol, who, being in the country on the king's (George the Second's) service, joined himself to them that " feared the Lord, and spake often one to another." Others soon associated themselves with this little band, and, with the zealous captain at their head, spread j\rethodisra into the surrounding parts, and as far as I'hiladelphia. A large room to meet in was now required in- New York, and a rigginfj loft was obtained. ' Next a chapel was built in John Street, and application was made to Mr. Wesley for a ministerial appointment. In 17G8 be stood up in the conference of his preachers in Leeds, and inquired, "Who will go to help their brethren in America?" when two good men, named Richard IJoardman and Joseph Pilmoor, volunteered heir services. A collection — the first " missionary col- iection" in Methodism — was made in the conference, and tiie two preachers were sent over. Afterwards , Francis Asbury, lliclmrd Wright, and Thomas llankin Mwere sent. And then, for the organisation of the MChurch, which had become considerable in its extent, ^ ]\lr. Wesley ordained Dr. Coke, and sent him forth to be Itlio general superintendent, or first bishop, of the Mo- Jthodist I'.piscopal Church in America. Since then it has enlarged and spread through the States, until now it is foremost in numbers and influence of all the churches in the country. And thus, from "a grain of mustard Bocd," wafted over the Atlantic by accident, as it would loom to some, lias arisen the goodly tree which already Spreads its spiritual branches over all the land. " LETTER III. PHiLADEr.rniA. Mingled Aniinyniiccs ami I'lciism'cH oC Uailwny Tinvcllinp; in America — Route Ihrougli Nrw .Ici'scj • -Arriviil iil riiiliidflpliiu — Scone nnionp tin Nejrro C'oai'hincn- i'l'oMikinji Inditl'cii'iicc of Anicricaii I lotel-keejiors — Hotel Life ill Ann'i'ci — MNposiirc of tiic Younn' to Iiijiii'ious Influences — Order and Kcpose of the (Quaker Cily — Appearance of the Streets and Puhlic BuililinfTs — Methodism in I'hihidelpiiiii — The Hall of ludepcndeuce — Franklin's Tonih, Dr. Hanxah and I loft Now York on AVedncsday at noon. AVe had been stronn;ly urged to remain a day or two longer in that city, tluit wo might be present at the celebration, among his relatives and friends, by Dr. Bangs, of the "jubilee," or fiftieth anniversary, nt his marriage ; but wo foH, thtit our special mission to the General Conference, appointed to assemble at Indiana- polis on the 1st of ]\ray, was our groat object, and that we must not halt unnecessarily on our way to it, how- ever groat miglit bo tlio prospect of personal gratifica tion in meeting friends on so interesting an occasion as that whicli I have just named. AVo have also boon most earnestly importuned to delay our journey to the AVest, in order that wo might uttoid public meetings to bo held at Washiiigton on behalf of the Sxmday Hchool Union; but tlio remembrance of the more immediate and .1 entr; i PIIILADELPIIIA. 41 no; ill America— S('(Mic aiuiiiip: till •ions Iiifiiicr.Pi^s— ,r llic Streets iuid U ol' Iiuk'iiemleiu't! Vedncsday at main a day or be present at d friends, by nni\crsary, of mission to tlic »lc at Indian a - 3Ject, and that -ay to it, how- onal gratiticu im occasion us lavc also boon journey to the ,iir meetings to Sunday School immediate and personal duties of our mission determined us to forego this gratification as we had foregone the other. We took our places at the water-side of New York for a through-journey from thence by railway to this city, some eighty-seven miles, for which we paid three dollars each, or twelve shillings and sixpence sterling. Before we left the station at New York we had brass checks, with correspondent '^.umbers, given to us, for the diiferent portions of our luggage, and thus secured their delivery by the ticket-porter at the end of our journey. This system of luggage-checks is simple and satisfactory ; it saves the traveller from all care and anxiety concerning his luggage after he has delivered it to the porter, how- ever numerous may be the changes of conveyances for him on tliu road. Wo crossed the water, about a mile in width, from New York to New Jersey city, which is on the west bank of the Hudson Eivor, and where the terminus of the railway is, in a steam ferry-boat. Crowded on the deck with us were carriages, carts, cattle, and passengers of all descriptions. On arriving at the other side of the water, some two or three hun- dred yards from the terminus, there was a furious rush by both coach-drivers and persons on foot to gain early entrance to the railway-station. We did not know the meaning of this at the time, but found, when the dis- covery was too late to serve us, that it was to obtain the best or most desirable places in the carriages. Wo 3 seated ourselves separately by some rough and rude I companions, for we were too much behind our fellow- I ])assenger8 in time of taking our scats to be able to 'I secure places close to each other. And now, for a while, we experienced some little in- convenience from the practice of the American doctrine I'f -I i . Ml 43 PIIILADKLPIIIA. of universal equali ^ , thougli we were saved any extra expense for a first or second-class carriage. Our seat- companions, who were farmers' men, unshaven, and with daubed trousers turned up almost to their knees, leaned and lolled upon us, and doubled their legs back over the stiles of the seats before us, until they assumed the form and appearance of huge clasp-knives. More- over, they chewed tobacco, and jetted out their saliva at our feet and over us, until we felt ourselves to be in no enviable situation. This incident taught us a lesson, ever afterwards to be remembered, for securing early entrance into an American railway carriage, so as to be able to select our company, and obtain adjoining seats for ourselves. I have named our travelling vehicle on the rail as a " carriage," but that is not the name given to it here. What we call "railway carriages" in England are here called "cars." These cars are large and ponderous, and appear on the ou^^ide something like huge omnibuses, with panels and let-down windows at the sides ; within they will accommodate from fifty to eighty passengers. The seats, each intended for two persons, are trans- versely placed, and an aisle divides them down the middle of the carriage, so that, in their general form and arrangements within, each car may be likened to a small church on wheels, with its side-seats and middle aisle. There is usually a charcoal stove in the centre of the car, and at one end a ladies' retiring closet, in which there is frequently a sofa and a rocking-chair. In one corner there is a large can of water, with a chained mug, for common use by the passengers. At every stopping place the "conductor" walks down the middle aisle to examine and take the tickets ol I that J; and iiparal Jcurri; _V(ik .file Jii §M-(> p; I ^'^' ; PHILADELPHIA 43 L any extra Our seat- tiaven, and iheir knees, tr legs back ley assumed ves. More- leir saliva at J to be in no us a lesson, curing early e, so as to be tbe rail as a ;n to it here, ^and are here inderous, and re omnibuses, sides; within y passengers. IS, are trans- em down the general form )e likened to a ts and middle n the centre of 'loset, in which chair. In one ■ith a chained ,r" walks down the tickets of persons entering or departing. There are no first, second, or third-class carriages, as with us. The cars are for all vhice persons promiscuously, except that there is a select car for ladies, which is in better order than the general cars. For coloured persons there is the negro car — coloured persons not being usually allowed to sit, eat, or ride with the whites. The negro car is a rough, heavy vehicle, very much like our lug- gage vans. A lady entering an American railway car is entitled, by usage, to any seat she may prefer that is not occu- pied by one of her own sex ; and if she enters the car with her husband or friend, she has only to intimate to any gentleman on a sea ; that she wishes to have it for herself or her companion, and it is immediately surren- dered to her. The seats are so framed that they swing over upon their arras, and thus afford the convenience of friends sitting face to face for conversation if they prefer doing so. Advantage is not unfrequenlly taken of this convenience for another purpose — that is, for securing log or foot-resters on the red velvet-covered cushions of the seats, the Americans being notable for nursing their logs on tables and seats. The real relief to cither Eno-- lishman or Am rican in a transatlantic railway car is [that he can stand upright with his hat on, or walk to laud fro for exercise along the middle aisle. The com- parative retirement of our own countrv's railwav- [carriage will, however, be preferred by an English tra- Iviller, — though, if lie journeys in one of the first-class, he must pay somewhat more per mile for his fare than [\'e pay here for travelling in the general cars. The American railway engine is as much larger in )roportion to ours as their cars are to our carriages. It I 44 nilLADELrillA. i is a huge black monster, with an elevated, covered, and glazed box in the middle for the engineer, and with a tall begrimed chimney in the front, which throws up, like a great overgrown rocket-tube, showers of large and dangerous sparks from the wood fire which rages imder the boiler. It is said that when extra speed is required at a railway race, and when the payments by a great number of passengers are sufficient to warrant it, no small quantity of resin is thrown into the fire to make it burn more fiercely, and to produce force from the highly-condensed steam. The truth of this I cannot affirm by personal observation ; but this I know already, that at times, though not able to reckon so much accom- plished in several hours' travel as on English railways, yet American steam-engines, and their heavy cars appended to them, rush on at a headlong rate, crossing streets and roads where there are no gates, no police- men, and no signals whatever, except an unshapely white signboard (hoisted up over the line at the head of two upright poles), on which is written in black letters, " W/ien the heJI rings hole out for the tocomotlre !" This bell swings on a swivel in front of the engine, and is rung at crossings and at arrivals by the engineer. Our route to Philadelphia, through the State of New Jersey, was over a somewhat flat, sandy, and unpic- turesque tract of country, relieved at intervals by pleasant and enlarging towns of trade and maniifacturc, and hy the signs of advancing cultivation in the land. Newark, the first town of importance we came to, is evidently a flourishing place, and has in it several buildings whieli stand up with imposing effect above the houses and " stores" in general. Most of the houses we saw by the sides of the line are of wood ; but good substantial f im PUILADELPIIIA. 45 )vered, and and with a throws up, ,f large and rages nnder is required ; by a great rrant it, no fire to make ce from the lis I cannot now already, much accom- ish railways, ! heavy cars rate, crossing es, no police- in unshapely it the head of black letters, otlrc!" This ngine, and is igineer. State of New and unpic- als by pleasant cture, and by and. Newark, is evidently a ildings whicli le houses and we saw by the lod substantial Li: dwellings in brick and stone may be seen here and there, with ploughed and cultivated fields around them. In other parts the log-cabins, the black, burnt tree-trunks, and zig/ag " snake-feuce," told of their occupation by new settlers. As we proceeded the number of negro- huts increased, and half-clad coloured men and women, with their naked black children, were seen ou tlie lands and by the road. We saw, also, many large mules in use by the farmers and by the land-carriers, these ani- mals being preferred for their hardy nature, and for their feeding on coarse food. The " forked Delaware" also appeared at som*> points, spreading out its beautiful waters far into the landscape ; i while upon its bosom might be seen vast floating rafts of newly cut timber — such as you will remember to have seen upon the Rhine. And here we thought and spoke of holy David Brainerd, the sickly and consumptive, yet energetic and devoted missionary of Christ to the Indians of these parts; for it was in the neighbourhood of tlie Delaware that he was most successful in his labours. Here the man of naturally melancholy temper- ament, who, nevertheless, experienced such true religious joy, travelled through forests and swamps, swam across the deep and rapid river, slept upon the bare ground, ^iieltored himself in a log-hut built by his own hands, jreached to the Indians in their wigwams, or gathered them around him in the open air, and told them of the [ledeemer's sufferings and death, until he saw them lean ipon their spears, and weep like children at the recital. We arrived at Camden Ferry, which ia opposite this tily of Philadelphia, by dusk, having come the eighty- keven miles in about live hours, when we crossed the river in a steamer. On arriving at the pier a ludicrous * u 46 PHILADELPHIA. scene presented itself, very far outdoing tlic earnest but laughable display of "touting" zeal which meets the traveller at the terminus of some continental rail- way in Europe — that of Calais, for instance. Here were black coach- drivers with whips in their hands, and with mouths that seemed open from ear to ear, crowding the landing-place, and shouting out to the passengers the names of hotels and boarding-houses with an appearance of furious clamorousnrss for cus- tomers. Soon they began to denounce one another, and also the hotels and houses for which they were respec- tively employed. Their negro terms, applied jokingly to one another, afforded us no small amusement. " You be false, bad coachee ! " one black man would cry out ; " and your massa's house only fit for niggers ! " " You turned ober de gentleman and lady todcr night, and don't know de way to de 'otel — hear dat, darky ! " the other would retort at the top of his voice. Then there would be seen a crowd of black faces, laughing and gibbering, and then a rush forward to the passenger going ashore, with a shout together of " Come wid me, massa ! come wid me ! " We gave our luggage- checks to a porter, and, under his direction, got into a roomy high-wheeled carriage, which was soon stuffed full with passengers, and drove to this, the "Girard House," in Chesnut Street. Our luggage soon followed us, and was delivered safely, the expense of its landing and cartage being included in the half-dollar each, charged for our places in the coach. But however eager and clamorous for us on landing might be the coloured coachmen, there seemed to be no great haste to receive and accommodate us at the hotel. The master of the hotel and his clerks were behind a F teouslj ; vided i to our ' he nee 'ur a SCI ment, dresses I)utter, g(Jod lampli^ , delpliia, [liquor- turn, iid not )r two ■•■IS thrc 3ast ten )'cloek >he bell Hei'e America PHILADELPHIA. 47 earnest ih. meets ital rail- e. Here ir hands, ir to ear, at to the nor-houses s for CU8- other, and ere respec- jokingly to is on landing (raed to be «o at the hotel fere behind a counter in a bar-like room on the left to receive the names of new comers, apportion them their rooms, and settle their accounts. When we asked of these autho- rities if we could have rooms and accommodation, they viewed us with indiiference, and one slowly answered, " I guess you may." Then we waited for some time in the passage, thinking of the contrast between our strange reception here and the bustling officiousness we should have met in Old England. At length the pro- prietor's son, as he appeared to be, told us that a double- bedded room, with such a number, could be occupied by us, and that tlie key held out to us belonged to it, cour- teously aiding he would order refreshment to be pro- vided for us without delay. We took the key, went up to our chamber, which was clean and airy, and, after the necessary ablutions, went down into the dining-room for a sort of tea-dinner. We found a spacious apart- ment, with a number of black waiters in snow-white dresses ready to serve us. With ice-water, tea, roll and butter, and hot steak, we made, after the day's fast, a good evening meal, and then went out to view, by [lamplight, what could be seen of the streets of Phila- klelphia. The streets in general were orderly, but iliquor- cellars and drinking-rooms were visible at many turn, and voices proceeded from some of them which lid not speak of sobriety. We passed the fronts of one Dr two theatres, or houses of amusement, into which ms thronging low company of both sexes. About halt- jast ten we retired to our room, slept well, and by sevon 'clock the next morning came down at the sound of ^he bell to breakfast. Here we were fairly introduced for the first time to Lmerican hotel life. On one side of the large dining 48 PHILADELPHIA. room, and on both sides of the table, sat young and middle-aged men, with their wives and children, taking their morning meal ; while on the other side of the room, on both sides of the long table, men of all ages, without any women, sat at breakfast. Behind each of the four rows was a troop of black waiters in cotton dresses. We sat down among the men, and gave our directions for what we wished to have brought to us, — ice-water, colfee, bread, fish, and meat, — and fared as well as we could desire, l^o person, except the dark waiters, spoke one word to us, or concerning us, though many looked hardly at us, and watched very closely our movements ; nobody spoke a v/ord, indeed, on any sub- ject at the tables, so far as we could hear, except by way of order?, about the meal. All ate with earnestness and lu silence, and, so soon as their cuting was finished, rose up with energy, individually, and stalked forth from the room. If it had not been for the crying of an infant, wlio would not take its food, we should have been as silent in that large dining-room as if we had been eating W'*h some severe fraternity of monks. That an infant should cry rather than receive its food, in such un- suitable circumstances, seemed not surprising ; and I was ready to ask, as I saw little children fed among adults at the silent public table, whether tliat kind of feeding in early life did not contribute to the dyspepsia and biliousness under which so many of the Americans seem to buffer in after-years. Tliis hotel life became with us quite a subject for inquiry and study, being a life so different from that of the hearths and homes of England. With many young jieisoiis her.?, when there are tlioughls of niiU- riage, and that is usuuliy very early, vhe question is nu who are, from their very entiy into life, always nccus- , tonied to public companies must bo nmro injurious even jthan upon young wives and husbands. Conslantly inured to glaring publicity, children arc sure to become either shy, dispirited, and uneasy, or obtrusively for- Uvard. The latter is said to bo the prevailing character ! I 50 PIlILADELnilA. 1 :l of American boj^s and girls — indeed, there hardly Hccm to be any children in America ; however yoim^', all give their opinions with the air of men and women, and with the evident expectation of being hoard. In hoiuu instances the parents find themselves, while in com- pany, superseded in authoritative opinion by sons nnd daughters of the age of seventeen. But these iuiperfec- tions of Young America must not blind a viMitor to its many excellences : and the wonder is that, eonHJdcn'in/^ its age and circumstances, America is tso far advanced in the order and refinement of society as it is. This city of Philadelphia, the metropolis of the Stati' of Pennsylvania, is one of the most orderly, cU'im, and comfortable cities that can possibly bo conceived. It bears throughout the impress of its Quaker oi'igin ; and though, like the Quakers' dress, it is too regular mid unilorm to be grand or imposing, yet there is a peaceful, quiel serenity pervading it, which is fully in aeeordnnco with the benign spirit of its founder, William I'enii, and of some of his first adherents within it. •'•'o Hito of the city is well chosen. It stands on iin elevated piece of ground, some two miles in width, belwt'cn tlio rivers Delaware and Schuylkill, and had in it h\\ years ago nearly 40!), 000 inhabitants. Next to tlic city of New York, it is the largest city (»f th(^ United States; and it is pleasing to refle(;t that the Stale of which it is the capital, with all its inward i-eMourcct of iron, coal, dt, and marble, and its outwiiid beinilv and nuignilicenco of fields, fruit-trees, aixl forestn, wihj not obtaiiu'd by extortion and robbery from tho abori' ginai Indian proprietors, but was faii'ly puridiased in il* length and breadth by amieablo iigreenu'Ut and treaty,] as representeil so graphically iu West'u wcll-knownj PIIILADELPIirA. 51 ivAly Hi'oni younn. >»^^ In Honvo lo in coiu- couHidcviup; advaucud in I of \\w Stuto y, eUuvn, ttiid J auwiviid. It p origin; uiul , rogiiliif ini'i i is ft iMnicoful. in lu'i'ovdtnur it,, ■'•'*' •*''•' n lui clovutnl , \u'tNV«>0» tlu) lud in it Hix I^cxt to tiui ul" tho Unitcil' \u>t tiiu State Iwiivd n'Hn\in(^ nihviird Ix'iiiily 11(1 l\)Vt'HtH, NVII- i„m llm ubovi nnriiUHi'd in i'^ •ni und tn-iity. picture. This just and considerate conduct of "William Penn, we are assured, was not forgotten by tlie Indiun-s, and afterwards Avas a shield of protection to the Quakers when wars raged most furiously among the red men against Europeans ; so that from that day to this it has not been known that a Quaker has ever been injured or slain by an Indian — such prevailing might is there in kindness, such is the true policy of acting justly ! Tlie plan of Philadelphia is that of an oblong square, with streets crossing each other at right angles with the greatest order and regularity, so that th(> city shows itself to have been laid out by the line and the rule. The drawback to this is of course the wearisome same- ness which pervades the whole ; for "hen you have seen one part of the town you have seen the whole, so far as its arrangements are concerned, and a European eye craves for some crooked sti'eets, inten)iinglo'^1 in England for our side-pavements, to the best of my memor}-, except at Brighton and in the Stafford- shire J\)tteries. Independent of their ornamental beauty, tlie trees here are a necessity, for, I was told by an English resident on whom I called, that in tho height of aunnner it is so hot in Philadelphia that many people cannot bear to move for several liours in the day, and oven water in the bath has to be renewed, so that it may be cool during the time of use. There are some good public buildings, principally of granite and Pennsylvanian white nuirble. Tho ]\[er- chants' I'Achange, and several of the banks, arc lino edifices, designed and copied with real taste from Grecian models by 31 r. Strickland. Tho "Girard College," in the suburbs of the city, rc^jjutedly a line building of tho Corinthian order, T have not seen, so I cannot state anything concerning it. This " Girard House," in whicli we are staying (and which is a well-conducted hotel), is a large handsome building of sandstone, and PIIILADELrillA, 53 displays a good degree of arcliitcctiirul composition and beauty. Many of the best executed red-brick Iv )uses, which abound in the city, have white marble steps ascending to their marble or stone porticoes, while the doors are cleanly painted, mostly white, and the silvered knockers and handles, as well as the brass balustrades, are all in a high state of polish. There are several good squares within the town, which, with their smooth gravel walks, grass lawns, and shady trees, form agreeable walking resorts. The "stores" here are in better taste and keeping than in New York ; they are less glaring, and more like the shops at the west end of London. There ar.^ some small low-class houses here and there, but these are fewer in proportion, I think, than in any other town I am acquainted with ; in a word, for clean- liness, neatness, and repose, I should deem Phikuhdphia the pearl of cities. l?y reputation, the ladies of Philadelphia are compara- tively reserved in company, and are somewhat exclu- iuve and "classish" in their circles. They certainly exhibit a really retired taste in their dress; and the quiet, peaceful faces of the Quaker ladies, and their neat and pleasing apparel, also add to the interest and repose 'jf the city, and contribute to render it so tranquillising and inviting. And yet this tran(|uil-l()uklng place can \^ roused to agitation and violence ; ibr on the coming •jf some nortliera men into it some veavj u'-o for Aboli- tiou meetings, and on the somewhat indiscreet exhibi- tion in the streets of an Abolition proces.sion, in which white and coloured persons walked arnirin-uriii, a mob assembl-'d, burnt down the buiMing which had been raised for Abolition meetings, and such was the state of public feeling, thut the leaders in this open and dis- I 54 rillLADHI.lMirA. 'it M graceful violenoo were not brought to justice or punlslierl for their lawless conduct. To the honour of th(i Quakers, let it be reincnibi'-ed, they were the persecuted in this affray; froJD the be,tiiie urchitcetnio. The Methodists ar<' foremost amou^ th'. i''ilgi(>n3 bodies both in the city and in the State ; ih , number in the city alone as many as l(),OtiO (•liuvch-rnembers. Wo were besought to preach in Phihideliihia, but have not been able to do so for want of time; yet wo could have de^5ired to do so, for to an English ISIethodist this is tt city of great interest, on account of its curly association with venerable names in ^[etlujdist history. Captain Webb, the military Mo- tliodist from liristol, wlious I have already named, was among its first visitorB, and his Christian labours were rewarded witli gracious succcf-^s ; so that when, in 17GI), Messrs. Boardnuni and JMhnoor, from the Dritisli con- ference, arrived here, they found not less tlian one Imn- dred persons gathi>red itito membersliip with the .^letho- dist Society, principally by the goo 1 captain's elforts. Tlie foliowin;^' letter, sent by Mr. Pihuoor to Mr. Wes- ley, shows tliis : — riiiliiitrlpliiu, Cr'/y//«- 31,v/, ITOy. "Hr.VEiihND Sn;, — J liiid rai>liiiii \\ i.lib ill (ovvii, iiiiil (I KiJi'iriy of (1111- liiinlreil iiiciulKa's, wli- i- - i-;j In PIIILADELPTIIA. 55 close connection with you. ' This is the Lord's doing, and it is mar- lic in ■lloiis in our eyes. " 1 h... prciu'lied sicveral times, and tlie ])Coplp. flock to liear iu multitudes. ;r'iiiida\ t V! iiinij; I went out ui)on the common. I had the stajic ajipointed lur the In ■'•-lacu for my pulpit, and, I think, hetwceu four and live thou- s- 'J Iw'.u. 1^ .iio li''ard with attention still as niiiht. Blessed be God for liiiil-))i-i :i- ' ij;. AVlien I be,uan to talk of preaching at five o'clock in the niorninii, i lie jicople thought it would not answer iu America ; however, I resolved to (rv, and I had a very good congregation. ''Tliere secius to be a great and etl'ectual door opening in this country, n 111 ^ hope iiany souls will be gathered in. The people in general like to liti! Uie void, and seem to liavc ideis of salvation by grace." Good Francis Asburv also laboured in this city; and when he, with Richard Wright, arrived here from England on the 7th of October, 1771, they found that, through the blessing of God upon tlie services of Messrs. Ijoardraan and Pilmoor, who had laboured here alter- nately, some months at a time, there were 250 members of the ^Icthodist Society in Philadelphia. On landing in this place, ]\[r. Asbury and his colleague immediately repaired to the church, and heard a sermon from Mr. Pilmoor, whom they found conducting the service. And of his own feelings and reception on his entrance upon tlie great field of his successful labours for Christ, Mr. Asbury relates : — " The people looked on us with pleasure, hardly knowing how to show their love sufficiently, bidding us welcome with fervent affeci'.on, and receiving us as angels of God. Oh I that we may v>alk worthy of the vocation wherewith we are called ! When I came near the -i^merican shore my very heart melted within me — to think from wlience I came, where T was going, and iwliat I was going about. Ihit I ivK 'ay mind open to the people, and my tuiig.' ' )c>e..-H-' ^o spruk. I feel that JG'jd ib here, and find . .. .ity of all i U'.d." 56 PIIILADELPniA. K: I i f: i ^ It was here, too, that Thomas Rankin and George Shadford, Methodist preachers from England, landed on the 3rd of June, 1773 ; and here was the first con- ference for Methodism in America held on the 4th of July of that year, by ten preachers, who reported 1160 members belonging to the several societies : — so that to us, as ]\[ethodist visitors, it may easily be understood that Philadelphia is a place of great interest. Kext to the Methodists are the Presbyterians and the Baptists, for numbers. The Quakers are now divided into two sections, under the popular names of the " Orthodox," who are of the old school of William Penn, and the " Jlicksites," who are Unitarians in doc- trine. The German reformers and tic Roman Catholics have also considerable numbers of adherents here. The churches arc, in their interior accommodations, fitted up with great convenience and comfort for the worshippers ; ajid several of them Lave large week- night lecture and service-rooms underneath, admirably arranged and furnished. There are, likewise, in the city and suburbs many good and flourishing educational, literary, and benevolent institutions that fully accord with the character and spirit of the inhabitants. But the most famous of all the public buildings of Philadelphia is its old State-house, now called the " Hall of Independence." It stands in the front of Independ- ence Square, adjoining Chestnut Street, and is a large old-fashioned biick structure, more than a century and a quarter old, with an extensive fii^ade towards the street, and a small open tower or cupola on the top. It was here that the first American Congress was held, and the original " I)eclaratimi„Mm^^.- PHILADELPHIA. 67 building is of course held in veneration by all Americans. 'J'he room in which the Congress sat is sacredly preserved in the state in which it was when the Declaration re- ceived its signature, and was proclaim(>d from the front steps of the building. Within it are several relics — such as chairs, table, a wooden statue of Washington, many old portraits of the leaders and founders of American colonisation and freedom; and the old bell which was used and rung at the time of the o-reat pro- clamation, and which bears this significant quotation from Scripture on its rim, " Proclaim liberty throughout the land to all the people thereof." Though not feeling all the deep and natural interest in this pkce which the Americans must feel, yet we felt that a spot so intimately associated with the memories of Washington, Franklin, Jefferson, Hancock, Adams, and others of those remarkable men, was classic ground. The calmly penetrative face of Franklin, especially, cannot but frequently come up before the mind while one treads that hall, for it was chiefly in Philadelphia that ho lived and laboured. But it is with him as with so many who have written their own epitaplis — the one I he wrote for himself, under the allusion to an old worn>- i eaten book, that should appear again in a new and more beautiful edition, corrected and amended by tlie Author, is not to be found on his burial monument; there is [simply a plain slab laid flat on the ground, inscribed — Benjamin AM) Deuokah Framclin, 17U0. LETTl^R IV. WASHINGTON. Railway Journey over Slave Territory — Arrival at Washington — T'nfilled- II]) T'an of the City — ropiilatioii and A'ice — ^luiiners of the " Represen- tative- ■' — Gaiety of Dress — Dandy Negroes — The Negro Bazaar — Tlie Capiiijl — Houses of Congress — Scene in the House of Representatives — Contrast to the British House of Coiniuona — Political Parties in the United States — President's House— Congress Chaplains — Terrific Tlum- dcrstorm — Plainness of the American Chief Magistrate. We are now in the legislative capital of the United States, having come to Washington from Philadelphia, a distance of 137 miles, in something more than six and a half hours. We left the Quaker City at noon, and, being detained at the hotel-door waiting for nine pas- sengers to be jammed into a coach only large enough for six, we were late at the railway-station ; and were not only pressed for time to have our luggage duly checked, and tc obtain our tickets, but were also driven to take such seats as we could find in u rough and crowded railway car. AVe could not obtain two adjoining seats, and had again to take our places beside M rude, unshaven travellers, who annoyed us by their m lounging, and copious distillations of tobacco juice. AYith the Delaware on our eft, we passed over some- 1 flat, imvaried country, uni-i e r- ached Wilmington, a town of considerable importance on the line, to judge by WASHING TOX. 5d what we saw from a distance of its streets, warehouses, 1111(1 public buildings. Soon after this, we crossed the boundary of Pennsylvania, and entered the Slave State of Maryland. Our reflections on this circumstance, at the time, created within both of us most painful feelings, which we afterwards expressed to each other ; and, whether our imaginations darkened the objects we viewed, or it was really so, we both thought that the transition from the Free States to the slave-holding territory irif^ht be seen in the inferior huts and dejected appearance of the negroes by the way-side, as well as in the loose and slovenly cultivation of the land around. We crossed several streams, creeks, and rivers, flowing out of Chesapeake Bay, which was now on our left ; and we went shaking and rattling along in our heavy cars over great lengths of timber-bridges, resting on piles, unrailed off" from the water, and swinging and trembling fearfully as we passed over them. In about four and a half hours we crossed tlT^ Patapsco river, and rushed over iron brid^ >5 that stretched over docks and basins, and down the middle of one of the most populous streets of the city of Baltimore, to the railway-station, the big bell by the engine-chimney ringing all the way to warn persons in the street that the train was near. We there i changed onr carriage, got seated together, and made our mutual observations upon what we had seen and [felt on the road. The number of coloured persons had greatl)'- increased lupon our view since we entered Maryland ; and, as we leaw them in the fields, in the streets, at the railway terminus, and some of them, half-clothed, in miserable low dwellings in the lower part of the city which we Kvcrc passing, I could not but think, prayerfully, of the CO WASIIIXr.TON. ill picture, familiar to our childhood, of the negro in chains, v/ith hands uplifted to heaven, and exclaiming, " Pity poor Africa ! Am I not a man and a brother ? " — for here I was beginning to realise the existence of the wrongs the pictui'e had so long foreshadowed. Wo hurried forward past the junctions for the Pittsburg and the Annapolis railway-lines ; and, as we advanced towards the Columbia district, and drew near to Wash- ington, we found the land more hilly and better cul- tivated; numerous villas and country residences scattered over it ; and these adorned with surrounding gardens and lawns, spreading cedars and fruit-trees. On arriving ut the terminus, which is near to the Capitol, we drove about half-a-mile to the " National Hotel," where there are, as we expected, a large number of members and visitors of the House of Congress. Washington is impressive at several points of view, l:)ut it is far from looking like a metropolitan city, and from fulfilling the hopes and expectations its founder is said to have formed concerning it. Planned and designed by General AVashington himself, whose name it bears, nnd whose perpetual monument it is intended to be, it has not progressed in population and trade as was origi- nally looked for. Perhaps there is an advantage in this ; for, if Washington had enlarged as rapidly as some of the other cities of the States, it might have been difficult to keep the crowded inhabitants in order daring times of excitement regarding great questions. As it is, any excitement there may bo on political matters in Wasli- iugton is, for the most part, within the Hall of Congress. The city is finely situated, being on elevated ground near to the broad, meandering Potomac Hiver, which i counnimicates, through the Chesapeake, with the sea, at WASIIINGTOX. 61 In clmins, ag, " Pity -for er ?' ice of the wed. We tsburgand | advanced [. to Wasli- bctter cul- jes scattered no- o-ardens i On arriving ol, we drove where there lemhers and ints of view, tan city, and ,ts founder is [and designed .tne it bears, nded to be, it as was origi- ntagein this; llv as some of been difficult daring times As it is, any [ers in Wash- 11 of Congress, 5vated ground River, wbicli nih. the sea, at some eighty miles distance. The scenery around is pleasing, being composed of hills with verdant slopes, and of land richly clothed with trees, and divided by water. From the Capitol, as a centre, the streets and avenues of the city radiate, after the manner of the spokes of a wheel. Unfortunately, when the plan of the city had been laid out on an extensive scale of some fourteen miles in circumference, and the Capitol was coiumenced, in 1793, instead of disposing of the plots of laud nearest to the central object in the first instance, purchasers were allowed to select building ground where they pleased. So that, now, there are large open spaces seen between the structures, and that in all directions, justifying the popular saying that " Washington is a city of magnificent distances." Some of the streets are nothing more than enclosed roads that run out to the water, or to the woods ; and the whole aspect of the place is that of half village and half town. The principal street is called " Pennsylvania Avenue," and extends in a direct line from the Capitol about a mile and a half to the "White House," as the President's official residence is called. This street, on one side at least, is pretty well built upon, and displays some good shops, or " stores." It is very wide, is shaded at the sides by rows of trees, like the streets of Philadelphia (reminding one also of j Versailles), and is the chief part for both trade and recreation. The population of Washington amounts to about 54,000, one fourth of which is composed of visitors, includin( not, however, a very freciuent sight, for there are not many coloured men in Washington ublo to dress thuH. ^fany of them are meanly clad, and show by the i)uliiit of their hands and the soles of their naked feel, whileiieii by toil and walking, that tlieir life is one of hard and severe labour. 1 followed some of thesi* injured iitid nitei divoi SUl'p tuUo my him, to brother." ly (lurinjj; guy (\roHH Ioh; Homu vm («xtru- ibiitborcd tu\(l 8i><"n> •d Iho ftuo \, in H()iin> L) IuhkIh, (if loon iiloii^' iy JH hIho t" ridii'ulou;^. , Uku 1IU)^ I IhviM, Siimlm ViiHhingtnii cdl in tilt' d biHtoii", und wri«l- ti idlvor or in pt-rclui^ iiHciiucm'*'; idti-ruiiU'ly j.ity. It i^ 10 uro not drcHK tliii^. ly \\w ]mltii"* .(, whltoni'il ,1' hiird anred by the be Pilgrim ; and Tenn tory. The Declaration fBurgoyne York-town ; 'ongress, ut (1 the Em- barkation of the Pilgrim Fathers. These pictures are oil large, and nearly cover the walls of the Rotunda. The first four are by Colonel Trumbull, a veteran of the revolutionary war, and are stiff and formal in com- position; and the last two are by modern American artists, and are wanting in solidity and repose, both in style of design and colour. There are some good statues on the terrace of the east front — one of Columbus, with a globe in his hand, and an Indian woman by his side ; and two others, emblematic of Peace and War. In bas-relief, ab<^^'e, there is a figure of Washington crowned b- le, whi^e, in the ground befoie the east front, theii is a, colossal sitting figure of the great statesman, ^" ^reenough, and bearing a Latin inscrip- tion on its pedestal, signifying that " Horace Green- ough made this image to the great example of liberty, and not without (liberty) itself to endure." On another side of the pedestal is inscribed — " First in war : First in peace : First in the hearts of his coun- trymen." Leading off from the Rotunda, in the middle, are liis ])m'ket-compns8, and, by sigiu and gestures, engaged and amused tlieni with u description of tlie form of the earth, and the nature of tlie iilauetary system. Three successive days they took counsel as to what was to be done with this wonderful being, and »t length decreed his death ; but, as he bowid his head to receive the fatal stroke of the tomaluiwk, Pocahontas, the chief's young and favourite daughter, threw herself upou the ueek of the interesting stranger, and begged for his life, sii; ing he should make hatchets for her fiilliiT, and rattles, strings, and beads for herself. His life was spared, and ho afterwards made im|)ortaut discoveries on the coast. Some years iifter- wa'ds, Pocahontas herself fell into the hands of English colonists, when she was iiislrneted in Christianity and baptised, as the first Indian convert in Aiiierlca. She was then sought in marriage by John Uolte, who brought her to England, where she died, after winning love and udmiraliou as a Christian, a wife, and n mother. 68 WASIIINOTON. passages to the Senate Chamber and to the Ilall of Re- presentatives, which are in the north and south wings of the building. These are, as to their general plan and arrangements, much alike, only the Hall of Repre- sentatives is considerably larger than the Senate Cham- ber. They are semicircular in shape, with the chair for the president, or speaker, in tlie middle of the diameter line ; the seats and desks of the senators, or represent- atives, being arranged in semicircular rows, very much : ftcr the style of the French legislative chambers. Into galleries around and boliind the speaker, the public are admitted. In its interior fittings of Potomac marble liillars and dome-roofed ceilings, with curtains and irpets, each place of legislative assemblage is handsome and tasteful. Under the Senate Chamber is the apart- ment in which the Hupreme court holds its sessions once a year; and over the entrance of the west front is the Library, containing, it is said, some 30,000 volumes, and elegantly fitted up. Tlun'o are numerous ofhces within the general building; and outside, both at the east and west fronts, the porticoes, steps, and balustrades are very stately and impressive in their effect. We attended both Houses of the Congress at the time of their sittings, that we nn'ght see and hear, in their respective places, the senators and reprcticntatives of the people of America. The Senate is presided over by the Vice-1'resident, the second magistrate of the United States: it is composed of two members from the Legislature of each State, who are elected for six years, one-third of the whole Senate going out of oflico every two years. Wo were ])lea8ed with the senators; they bore nnich of the appearaJH-e of old J'lnglish country gcntlcmoji. They seemud, indeed, to be fit repre- ■■ .H-J WI! . WASHINGTON. 69 sentatives of property, for so they may be considered iVoin the mode of their election. Some of them spoke with great order, and very effectively. But we were not •0 much gratified in the House of E,epresentatives. The speaker is a fine, noble-looking man ; and there Avere some of the members who seemed to be thoughtful, and lovers of order ; but many of them appeared to be rude, disorderly, and bawling men, who do not mend what we call the " Queen's English" either in form or tone. We were told by friends, before we paid this visit to the place of national debate, that not a few of the represent- atives are mere political adventurers, who live and trade upon public excitement, and have no great amount of confidence placed in them by anybody. In looking upon them, and listening to them, I could fully under- stand and believe this statement. The principal subject of discussion when we were in attendance was the correctness of a decision pronounced from the chair. The clamour for opportunity to apeak was great, and the speaking against one another violent. If what we witnessed ought to be taken as a fair speci- men of the daily proceedings in that House of Congress, one would be ready to conclude that it requires no great sum of wisdom, genius, or even business-like talent, to govern the American people. We, liowevcr, found there was good reason to believe that the people, generally, are better than their parliamentary representatives. It would be nearly impossible to caricatuio the strange things we heard from some of these national talkers. Several of them, with complexions like meerschaum pipes that liave been long in use, might have been taken for tra- vellers from the backwoods ; and these delivered them- selves in the most inflated style, piling together epithets 70 WASHINGTON. in the superlative with unmerciful profusion, and strain- ing after figures of speech, as if words, and not thoughts, were the great requisites for guiding the judgments of those who heard them to a proper conclusion. Some of the speeches we heard must have been delivered for bunkem, as the Americans designate what is spoken for mere out-of-doors effect. Between the routine and other circumstantials of the American parliament and ours, of course there are some differences. We had no written orders to obtain for entrance into either house of Congress. Yisitors of all kinds are present, both in the galleries and on the floor : men in working clothes as well as persons in fashionable dress ; and there were also many ladies in the galleries. The president, or speaker, was in plain clothes, and so were the clerks and officers of each house. There are no ministerial benches, or mention of this or that side of the house; no cries of "hear, hear," or "divide;" no cheering, coughing, or interruptions resembling those so customary in the British House of Commons. The members secure their seats by choice as they arrive at the beginning of a session ; each man speaks as long and as loudly as he pleases, but there is often a hard fight for the next turn, many rising when the speaker sits down, and no small difficulty in determining who is to have the turn. The houses sit from twelve at noon to four, or, if necessary for the dispatch of business, to six, or later. I need scarcely say that party-feeling in politics runs extremely high in this city and in this country. Nearly all profess the strongest attachment to the constitution, and secra as if they would sacrifice anything to maintain it, and yet never were parties more violently opposed to WASHINGTON. 71 are some )litic8 runs each other, and never were parties in a country more numerous. There are Whigs, Democr*; ;, Democrat-Re- publicans, or Loco-focos, !Nullifiers, Scc' Ters, Workies, and Know-nothings, beside Pro-Slavery and Anti- Slavery men, these last two belonging usually to one or another of the political parties as well. The three first - named parties are of most importance. The Whigs are what we should call Conservatives ; the Democrats re- semble our Whigs, or moderate reform.ers ; and the Democrat-Republicans are Radicals, and are named "Loco-focos" from a straf^gem they employed uc a meeting with loco-focc matches. The bulk of th- wealthier classes may, y, /haps, be said to belong to the Conservatives, the body of the people to the moderate reformers, and the most violent to the Radicals. Each party has its spouters and newspapers, and seems to see no consistency or virtue in the other ; and here, as in New York, the public profligacy of speech and writing is most flagrant concerning the conduct and character of political chiefs and their adherents. They are abused, scandalised, and denounced in the most unsparing man- ner. This practice is so fully understood, that what i^ spoken in political meetings or written in newspaper,^* carries little weight with it. All this is admitted am^ lamented by observant and candid Americans with whom we have conversed. The building in Washington next in importance to the Capitol is undoubtedly the residence provided fov the chief magistrate of the United States. The Presi- dent's house stands on an elevated piece of ground at the other extremity of the city. It is a spacious, good building, with Ionic pilasters and rustic basement. In size and appearance it is very much like an English 72 WASHINGTON, nobleman's seat ; but the parallel has not been continued to the grounds adjoining it, for they do not include twenty acres. There are some good government offices at the same end of the city, near to the President's house. There is, likewise, between the city and the river, a large building of red sandstone, and of Norman or early Gothic architecture, named the " Smithsonian Institute," with other collegiate, educational, and scientific institu- tions. The private buildings in Washington are, with few exceptions, poor and low. Many of them are of wood ; and being either singly detached or in scattered and isolated groups, they have a comfortless appearance. And even where the houses are more continuous, as in the principal streets, they are of such various shapes and heights, as to present no satisfactory effect. The shops, for the most part, are small and slenderly furnished, and are far inferior to the " stores" of New York and Phila- delphia. Many parts of the city seem to be just rising into existence, linil others falling into decay, on the borders of a mia'^by common. At night f !iu city, throiigh its insolvency, it is said, is scarcely lighted ->t all, and appears then most desolate. I cannot but think that the curse of slavery is upon it. Here slavery has its mart, its auction-block, its dungeons, its whips and chains, and its open profligacy. I could send you copies of advertisements for the sale of negroes and the recovery of runaway slaves which appear here in the newspapers, and I could rilate to you several instances of the wrongs and cruelty done to slaves within Washington itself; but I forbear to write at length upon this subject until I shall have seen and heard more concerning it. There are about twenty churches in Washington We ■»waai ^Z"^' "V %" w /. Si ^ .6> 1.25 1 1.4 1.6 = -^ 6" — ► 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WltSTIR,N.Y. MSIO (71*) •72-4501 74 WASHINGTON. ni parts with fire. The wind rose, and rushid along furi- ously, until we could not walk in th© streets. It bent and split the trees of the avenues, and bowled fearfully in the comers and among the chimneys of tb© bouses. A few large pattering drops of rain fell, and spread themselves upon the pavement, and then, as if the sky had suddenly burst, the water poured down in torrents, and ploughed up the ground into deep rugged ftirrows, until one was ready to imagine that a seoond deluge was come. While in New York we were oaught in a rain-storm that seemed to us overwhelming ; it drenched us through to the skin in a few minutes, but it was a trifle compared to this storm in Washington. I may just say, in conclusion, that we did not seek an introduction to the President of the United States, though we should have had no difficulty in obtaining it. The American chief magistrate is readily aooossible to all who desire to see him or speak with bim. His "drawing-rooms" and "levies" are open to all persons, — even to the poorest, who may go to them in working- dress, — the only qualification being that the person who thus claims admission should be a oiti>!en of America. There are no forms or dresses of state and ceremony used either by the President or any mtnnbor of the government. There are no livory-sorvunts belonging to the American grandees ; if they bo soon hero at all, they belong to ambassadors or otber representatives from foreign states ; and the Prosidont may walk through the streets of Washington with almost as little observation as any private citizen. Origin of i Coloured ington Ml Methodist dism in ] bourers — Scene of « Scriptural We cam( no time whatever went to with the house W£ and insis both a dc cine, anc gentlema belongs romarka records, much to\ serving LETTER V. BALTIMORE. Origin of the City — General Description of it — American Aristocracy — Coloured Population— Evils of Slavery— The "Liberia" Project— " Wash- ington Monument" — "Battle Monument" — "Green Mount Cemetery" — Methodist Cemetery, or, "the Mount of Olives" — Importance of Metho- dism in Baltimore — Relics of Early Methodism — Record of Early La- bourers — Coloured Churches of Methodists — Preaching and Memorable Scene of excitement at the African Methodist Church in Sharpe Street — Scriptural Hopes for the Emancipation of the enslaved Race. We came to this city from Washington, and have lost no time in surveying it, and getting acquainted with whatever it contains of worth and interest. At first we went to Barnum's Hotel, in Battle Monument Square, with the intent to inn there, but Dr. Roberts, at whose house we called while he was from home, followed us, and insisted on our coming to stay with him. He is both a doctor in divinity and a doctor of laws and medi- cine, and is a very intelligent, hospitable, and pious gentleman. The interest he displays in whatever belongs to the antiquities and history of Methodism is remarkable. He not only possesses many valued relics, records, and books of early Methodism, but has done much towards founding a society for collecting and pro- Bcrving such memorials of the past. He is what is 76 BALTIMORE. i \ termed in America a " located minister," practising in the medical profession, and yet officiating in turn at the Methodist churches of the city, as well as holding a chaplaincy to the soldiers and the cemetery. Dr. Roberts has spared no trouble in showing us attention, and has driven us about most cheerfully to view the principal parts of the city and its objects of interest. Baltimore, as you will know, is the capital of Mary- land, and, for population and commerce, ranks as the third city in the United States. At the Census of 1850 it contained 169,054 souls. It derives its name from Lord Baltimore, the tolerant Roman Catholic nobleman, who, in the reign of William and Mary, settled here as a colonist with his family, and who not only gave to Protestants the free exercise of their con- sciences in the worship and service of God, but also acted justly and generously to the aboriginal Indians, from whom he purchased the lands of the State. Like the other cities we have visited, Baltimore is most favourably situated, standing on ground that rises, some 150 feet to its crown, from an extended bay of the Patapsco River, which, . t distance from hence of 200 miles, passes by the «w^o8apeake into the open Atlantic. In general appearance, us beheld in the approach to it, the town, rising up from the water, reminds one of ♦He views given of Constantinople ; and there are several domes, tall, slender monuments, and minaret-like forms, that materially contribute to this resemblance. In trade and exports of flour and tobacco, it is among the busiest cities of this western world ; and its numerous shipping, seen fringing the water's edge, adds to the general effect of the panorama. "Baltimore Street," which runs from east to west : throug long, menad substai most fi ground ings, b( houses, the sih bell-pu and the equal tc less of i the flat properly have ye refinemt and rid( that tel] markabl is a pro\ generall; were En persons c of refinei observe 1 congratu can be cl The c amountir lation. ' and, fron dent the) BALTIMORE. 77 west through the middle of the town, and is about two miles long, is the great thoroughfare both for trade and pro- menade. It is a good wide street, having in it many- substantial and well-stocked warehouses and stores. The most fashionable quarter of the town is on the high ground at the north side. Here are many fine build- ings, both public and private ; and the well-built brick houses, with granite or white marble steps and porticoes — the silvered and polished door-handles, knockers, and bell-pulls — the ornamental railings and balustrades — and the clean and pretty grass-plots, render this quarter equal to the finest parts of Philadelphia ; while there is less of sameness in the general effect than there is in the flat Quaker city. This quarter, indeed, may more properly be styled "aristocratic" than anything we have yet seen in America. There is an air of real refinement in its society. The ladies, in their walks and rides, have a delicacy in their dress and equipage that tells assu'^edly of cultivated taste. They are re- markable for gracefulness; and a "Baltimore beauty" is a proverbial phrase, the fitness of which seems to be generally acknowledged. The original colonists here were English and Fronch gentry, many of them being persons of superior education and manners, and the stamp of refinement seems never to have been lost. I may just observe that we have already found there is real 5':lf- congratulation among the Americans when their descent can be clearly traced from good English families. The coloured persons in this city are numerous, amounting, it is said, to one-fourth of the entire popu- lation. Three-fourths of these are reported as " free ;" and, from the dress and style of some of them, it is evi- dent they experience no scarcity of means for comfort- 'h \. J ■ fls I 78 BALTIMORE!. able and even sumptuous living. The slaves are chiefly domestic and hired-out labourers. Some of these appear to be well provided for, and seem to be cheerfid and contented in their situations. There is much of the picturesque in the figures of the female slaves here, as they are seen cleaning the steps and door-handles of the best houses, their black but comely arms and faces con- trasting richly with their coloured turban-handker- chiefs and body-dresses, and with the white marble steps and porticoes ; and the black coachmen and foot- men associated with the fine horses and rich silver or- naments of the carriages produce a stately efiect. But in the lower parts of the city, and in the out- skirts, there are many negroes who are very coarse and very wretched in their looks — many that seem as if they had abandoned themselves hopelessly to degrada- tion, and who live in filth and misery the most deplor- able. Their dwellings seem like dens of darkness and desolation ; and their children, of either sex, with their rough woolly heads, run in and out of them utterly un- clothed. Surely slavery, wherever it exists, exhibits, even under the most favourable circumstances, its own brand of wrong and wretchedness. And what is it here, in this refined and genteel city, compared with what it is in the field, and on the cotton and tobacco grounds, where men and women are driven along in their allotted labour by the whip, and are exposed to every injury and insult of passionate and depraved owners and drivers. All whom I have hitherto conversed with in the States on this subject deplore the great evil of slavery. The intelligent and benevolent men of this city express themselves as being ashamed of it, and seem very earnest BALTIMORE. 79 |ong in )sed to ipraved in the (lavery. sxpress sarnest in their 'desire to get rid of it as soon as practicable. It is in Baltimore that the most strenuous efforts have been made to establish Liberia — the colony on the coast of Africa to which it is aimed to transmit coloured people when set free in America. Some may question the propriety of encouraging this scheme. It may be urged that the strong antipathy to the dark race, which seeks the entire removal of it from American soil, should not be fostered. And others may question the justice of such a measure, since the negroes and their mulatto children, born on American ground, seem to have as great a natural right to live and continue there as the white descendants of emigrants from foreign lands ; yet it is beyond a doubt that many who strive to maintain this Liberia project are impelled by the earnest pity and benevolence of their honest hearts. Among the more modern churches there are some good buildings in Baltimore. The Roman Catholic Cathedral and the Unitarian Church are highly spoken of by some ; but though they are prominent objects by their size, and by the domes with which they are sur- mounted, yet they are not consistent or good in their architectural style, and are unattractive when compared with the cathedrals and churches of celebrity in Europe. There are two monuments of some pretension in this " City of Monuments," as it has been called. One, the "Washington Monument," is a Doric column, with pedestal and figure, 180 feet high, all of white marble, and in form is not much unlike the Duke of York's Column, on the old site of Carlton House, London. This monument stands on the very crown of the northern or best part of the city, and is a pleasing object. The view from the top of this high monument is very exten- ■'il 80 BALTIMORE. sive. Dr. Hannah and I climbed the 200 steps, and felt ourselves well rewarded for the labour. The town, with 'ts streets, buildings, quays, and shipping, is spread out 111 its full length and breadth before you ; while the river at its verge may be seen extending towards the sea. The figure of "Washington, by Cansici, an Italian sculptor, is 16 feet high, and represents the general at the interesting moment when, after settled victory, he voluntarily resigned his command to retire into private life. The veneration for Washington in the States is unbounded. He is undoubtedly the national idol; his name, acts, and sayings still govern the Americans ; and perhaps of all hero-worship among nations, there is none existing which is more signal or manifest than that of Washington among this people. There is wide difference of opinion respecting other early presidents and statesmen — such as Jeiferson and Adams — :but none as to Washington. Every American holds him to have been a great, pure-souled, disinterested man, and seems to regard him as the true heau ideal of a patriot. The " Battle Monument," intended to perpetuate the memory of the men who fell in the several battles fought during the struggle for Independence is less satis- factory than the monument to the nation's founder. It is an odd and incongruous combination of an Egyptian spreading pedestal with a Roman column of arrows and bands ; it is 62 feet high, of white marble, and has on its top a female figure, emblematic of the city of Baltimore. The cemeteries in the suburbs of Baltimore are, I think, the most lovely and interesting places of the kind I have ever visited. I have seen nothing equal to them in England or elsewhere. The "Green Mount or. BALTIMORE. 81 ire, 1 the lal to Count Cemetery," north-west of the town, is highly r eh and beautiful in its undulating ground, and fresh green graceful trees and tasteful shrubbery. Mingled with other trees of fine, broad, spreading foliage are cedars and pines ; while under and around them are countless tombs, obelisks, columns, and gravestones, nearly all of white marble, and bearing inscriptions for the dead whose bodily remains have been interred beneath them. Many of these monuments are very chaste and beautiful in form, and the devices and inscriptions upon them are affecting. One, for a departed youth, i^ an open Bible on a pedestal, with a broken flower resting on the second verse of the 14th chapter in the Book of Job — " He Cometh forth like a flower, and is cut down." On others are the names of the parties erecting the memorial, under the words, " In memory of our beloved mother," or, " In memory of my beloved wife." I observed, also, that not only have families plots of ground railed in for themselves, but that within them, besides the grave- stones with inscriptions for deceased wife and child, the living widower and father's own resdng-place was pro- vided, the inscription, of course, omitting the date of his death and the record of his age. "VVha^ ; locality for a man to visit, and in which to meditate on His own frailty and mortality ! The other cemetery, rrhich is north-east of the city, is exclusively devoted to the Methodists, and is named " The Mount of Olives." It is not so fine in trees and shrubbery as Green Mount; but it, too, with its numerous white marble monuments, is a most interesting place. It was first opened in 1846, and contains already more than 1000 bodies. The remains of Bishops Asbury, Emory, and George have been brought here, and are G I ^-, 82 BALTIMORE. enclosed within a largo square, where a suitable monu- ment is to be erected for them. We lingered on this ground, where rest the bodies of so many of " the dead who died in the Lord," until the sun went down in his American golden glory, and until the grey twilight gathered and .thickened around us, and made us the subjects of solemn reflections and of deep feeling. The Methodists have a very prominent and honourable rank among the Protestant denominations of Baltimore, — they are, in fact, foremost both in numbers and influence. They number forty-three churches and chapels ; five of these being for the coloured race, and two for the Germans. Gospel teaching is supplied in these churches by thirty stated ministers and seventy local preachers, of whom twenty-two are coloured free- men, ten of them having been ordained. The number of full church members in Baltimore is more than 13,000, 3730 of them being coloured persons. Some of the churches are highly interesting by their associations with the earlier scenes of Methodism. At the back of one of these churches, named " Light Street Church," is an upper room in which several of the first and most important conferences and meetings of Methodism were held, and which were presided over by Dr. Coke and Francis Asbury. It is a square, low-ceiled room, plainly furnished, and still preserved in its primitive style of arrangement and fittings. While in it, and looking upon its rough, heavy furniture, one could not but picture the scenes of seventy or eighty years ago, when the few veteran labourers for Christ, with earnest hearts, but with faces and clothes worn in the wilder- ness, met there to deliberate on the spiritual wants of the new continent, and how best to provide for them. '-yff;?^'^" BALTIMORE. 83 onu- this dead his light the What a glorious work has God wrought in this land since their time ! But perhaps it is no greater than the devout confidence of such earnest and truly apostolic labourers anticipated. Baltimore must always be viewed as one of the chief centres from which Methodism first radiated, and from which it has continued to extend and spread until it has well-nigh covered the land. Here the apostolic Asbury had his appointed station from the first conference, and from hence he took his long pilgrimages for preaching the Gospel in the surrounding parts of the country. Here, in his day, and repeatedly since, have been expe- rienced overpowering seasons of grace and salvation. Within twenty-one miles of this place Dr. Coke and his friends sought to establish the first colleges and semi- naries for the youth of Methodism; and though these first efforts were singularly frustrated by successive fires, which consumed the buildings erected at great cost and sacrifice, yet, from their ashes, so to speak, have arisen the establishments for learning which Methodism has, since then, so numerously spread over the northern part of this great continent. Here, too, the " Methodist Episcopal Church " of America was first organised into a distinct and separate system of agency for spreading evangelical holiness and truth through the land, when, instead of be ing ' a number of societies from other churches, it became a church for itself : and it was here that the general conference of that church was first held, and which has adjourned its sessions, quadrennially, from that time to the present, assembling in different places, as most convenient. Dr. Hannah was here at the general conference of 1824 with the venerable Richard Reece. Here, too, the manly and eloquent 84 BALTIMORE. Robert Newton attended the general conference of 1840, and preached to listening and delighted thousands within the churches and open squares, the " glorious Gospel of the blessed God." So that, to a Methodist visitor, Baltimore is n place of strong and accumulated interest. But, to me, the most interesting spectacles within this city have been the Methodist churches of black and coloured members. It would be difficult for me to say fully how it is, but I have felt an intense interest in the coloured people of this continent. Perhaps this may be accounted for in some degree by the novelty of what I have witnessed. It is uncommon to English eyes to see large numbers of such people ; and they are chiefly associated in the mind with suffering and injury. One unavoidably connects the sight of them with the sense of a gigantic wrong. This feeling had strengthened in the course of our journey, and especially from what I had seen and thought in Washington, until, when I came here, I felt that if it were only for the relief of my own burthen of accumulated feeling, I must preach to the poor, wronged race. Thus it arose that, when informed of the arrangements made prospectively for Dr. Hannah and myself as to Sabbath services, I preferred a request to be allowed to preach in the evening in one of the churches of the coloured people. This gave rise to some passing difficulty, owing to the previous announcement concerning our services, and so what I desired was, at first, received with some remonstrance ; but I continued to urge my request, placing myself entirely at the disposal of ministers and friends for the other parts of the day ; and at length the African church in " Sharp Street " was assigned to me. In the morning I preached to a large and respectable congregation in " Caroline Street" BALTIMOKB. 81 Church. Dr. Hannah preached twice to large and delighted congregations — many of his former friends crowding to hear him again. My Sabbath-evening work was the most intensely inspiring and exhausting service in which I ever partook. The large church was filled to overflowing some time before I arrived there, and I had difficulty in making my way to the pulpit. Some said there were 2000 coloured persons in and about the building ; but assembled multitudes are usually over estimated, and I should say it was so in this instance. It would have been very difficult to number them, for they were jammed together in every part, and that irrespective of passu^^as, pews, and sittings. There is a gallery on three sides of the church, which is appropriated to the class of free negroes — persons who are in, what we cull in England, easy circumstances. The floor was principally covered with common seats and benches. Within the communion rails sat some twenty black, woolly-headed class-leaders and local preachers. These were fine, intelligent-looking men, neatly dressed in black clothes, and wearing plain white Methodist cravats. The spectacle, altogether, was most impressive. Some of the free negroes in the gallery were not only well, but handsomely dressed — white silk shawls, white gauze and silk bonnets, white kid gloves, and white fans, were plentiful among the dark females. The coloured people seem to be fond of white dress, and no wonder, for, great as may be the contrast between their complexions and their white caps and bonnets, yet, if such portions of their dress were black, how sombre and unpleasing would be the eflect ! Some of the men in the gallery were dressed in handsome blue and black clothing, associated with a very large amount of white I 86 BALTIMORE. shirt- collars, fronts, and wristbands. The congregation below was more neatly dressed — some of the females had blue, red, and orange-coloured handkerchiefs gracefully folded upon their heads into African turbans, but were plainly and coarsely clad in their body garments. The men, too, on the ground-floor were plainly, and, in some instances, roughly clothed. Many of these in the lower part of the church were slaves. The place, crowded and filled in every part, became most oppressively hot, and the perspiration ran down the faces of the people most profusely, and made them shine like polished ebony. For that phrase of quaint old Thomas Fuller's — " God's images carved in ebony" — so aptly descriptive of the coloured race, came irresistibly to my remembrance as I looked upon the dark, shining mass of human beings before me. Tliere were not more than half-a-dozen white persons within the church, and they were chiefly ministers on their way to the General Conference, — for the whites of the churches in America do not mingle and worship with the blacks, even when visited by an English minister, whom, perhaps, they flock in crowds to hear when he preaches in a church not set apart for the African race. The strong effluvia emitted by the heated bodies of the negroes may, to some extent, account for this separation, but not wholly. No doubt the degradation so long associated witli the coloured people has much to do with it. AVe commenced tlie service by singing, — and such singing, I may confidently say, I never heard before. I do not mean us to correctness and order, but for its soft, plaintive melody, and its thrilling efl'oct upon mo. They sang in their several parts, for the choir was all duly arranged in the gallery in front of us. It was led by a female, who hud ti siu- gulai BALTIMORE. 87 gularly clear, firm, and powerful voice. A band of dark sisters accompanied her in the air; a brotherhood of manly and mellow voices joined in the tenor ; another company, in the purest tones, pealed the counter ; while a larger division of huge, brawny black men rolled forth a mass of bass sounds, that one might have called " human thunder " almost without hyperbole ; and all the congregation joined the choir in singing. The choir did not sing to the congregation, or for it — as is too often the case in congregations — but with it ; and there is a soft, mellowing, and harmonising effect in the African singing that seerr° peculiar to itself. At prayer all seemed to be most roverent and devout, there seemed to be no irreverence, either in posture or sound, and there were times when " all the people said. Amen ! " I preached to them on the freeness and fulness of God's salvation, as set forth in the invitation given by Christ to the poor, the maimed, the halt, and the blind, especially applying to them the direction given concerning the treatment of the unsheltered outcasts of human societj', wlio are represented as in the " highways and hedges." I im- posed restraint upon myself for a time, finding that the very sight of the dark congregation, together with associations in my mind of their injured and degraded race, nikd me with strong emotion ; and the people, from warnings and counsels previously given to them, I believe, also restrained their feeling for a while. But, oh ! those black, beaming faces — those upturned and imploringly soft, dark eyes — those eager, devout, and rapturous looks, — were too much for me, and the bonds of self-restraint, bolli with preacher and pe()j)le, began to slacken ; and when at length praiseful exclamations arose from different parts of the congregation, — such as I ■■i_'ir..7:7^.'""'':-""'^"'"'"*'^"i'>''?^"~iV^"' 88 BALTIMORE, " Blessed be de name of Jesus ! " •' Glory to d© Lamb 1 " " Hallelujah ! " — I could restrain roysolf no longer, but, from an overflowing heart, preached to them tho Gospel of the Son of God. The effect was striking— 'tho people wept and laughed, clapped their hands liko children, shouted, and even leaped up and danced for joy. The description of Israel at the turning of their captivity might be quoted to represent the rejoicing nogro con- gregation of that night : thoy were like men who dreamed; their mouth was filled with hmghtor, und their tongue with singing ; yea, *• tho Hoods " of the assembled people " lifted up their voice " und •' clapped their hands." The whole mass of dark worshippers bowed and waved to and fro like a, field of ripo corn before the wind ; and, at length, clearing Hpiicos around them, some of them leaped up from tho ground and swung themselves round, literally ** dancing before tho Lord." You will hardly comprehend tliii*, but such was the cliild-like simplicity and devout fervency that marked this singular scene, that it produced no confusioti in tho service whatever. After the sermon wo nmdo u col- lection ; and it was the second during tlie service,— for tho African Methodists are not willing Ui appear bufuro the Lord empty, — we had made one before fur llio grave- yard belonging to the African church ; and thin second contribution was for the support of the miniNlry. Then we sang und prayed again; and then, before (lie con- clusion, the choir sang some of tlu>ir own African pieces. One piece was on " Canaan, bright ("anaim," and another was on " Praise to tho Lord," and stimc of the parts in these had very beaut ifid piiKHiigcN. Ono female voice took a solo, in one pice*', und the voico soared and rang us if it were Ihu voico of u i apt seraph BALTIMORE. 89 singing' alone in the ecstatic audience of angels. The minister in charge, with myself, tried to dismiss the congregation, but they would not separate, or, if some went out, others came in and began also to sing and shout the praises of God, so that the place remained filled to a late hour. After a time, I pushed my way towards the door ; but the blacks crowded around me, and I made but little progress. Numbers of dark, perspiring hands were thrust forth towards me, accom- panied with the words, " Bless you, English massa ! " and " Bless de Great Massa above ! " others said, " He send de Word home to de heart ! " At length I gained the door, and, at something after ten o'clock, reached Dr. Roberts', where, after family worship, I retired, with Dr. Hannah, to bed, glad of the opportunity to speak, with one so congenial in thought and feeling, upon the Sabbath and its services. I did not sleep at all through the night, but passed the wake- ful hours upon my bed, with joyful feelings and reflec- tions, exultantly exclaiming, "The Spirit of the Lord is upon me, because He ha' li anointed me to preach the Gospel to the poor, He hath sent me to heal the broken- hearted, to pi'each deliverance to the captives, and re- covering of sight to the blind, to sot at liberty them that are bruised, to preach the acceptable year of the Lord." I can now fully appreciate the opinion expressed, I believe, by ^liss Bremer with regard to African churches, viz., that it is not unlikely God will ultimately raise up from them. His long-oppressed and down-trodden chil- dren, model churches for the world ; for, certainly, if religion be love, and if simplicity, devoutness, patience, meekness, humility, and fervency be the distinguishing 90 BALTIMORE. attributes of Christ's own religion, then these are to be found in African churches in all possible perfection. In them the Book of the Canticles, that " song of songs " (which, when men's hearts shall be purified from car- nality, will be found to be a precious vehicle of spiritually loving thought and expression), seemed to be beautifully fulfilled and illustrated. They are sick of love for Christ, their Saviour and spouse, and they seek him most earnestly and perseveringly in the streets and ordinances of the Gospel city, that new Jerusalem which has come down from God out of heaven. It cannot bo that this poor, sufiering, and long-oppressed race, the prey of all nations, shall have no recompence from a God who judgeth upon the earth. Their cry, from the slave-ship, from the auction-mart, from the dungeon, from the field where they have toiled in chain-gangs, and under the whips that ploughed long furrows in their backs, has already entered into the ears of the Lord God of Sabaoth ; and He who, when a young child, went doAvn into Egypt, where Joseph, and Moses, and enslaved Israel had wept, and suffered, and prayed, and who had his cross borne for him up the rugged mount of Calvary by Simon, the black man of Cyrene, shall ultimately deliver and avenge them. Under His peace- ful and millennial reign, the hostile nature of black and white races of men shall be reconciled, while the savage natures of men-stealers and slave-traders shall be rege- nerated and subdued. Then shall " the wolf dwell with the lamb, and the leopard lie down with the kid ; the calf, and the young lion, and the failing together, and a little child shall lead them ; the cow and the bear shall feed together, their young ones lie down together, and the lion eat straw like the ox ; and the sucking chill chill sha^ thel cha^ owi her I Goc ,l..-. ':J-'-^:-^/.a t-' BALTIMORE, 91 child shall play on the hole of the asp, and the weaned child shall put his hand on the cockatrice' den : they shall not hurt or destroy in all my holy mountain, saith the Lord : " and then shall Africa, freed from her chains, sit rejoicing in her love to Christ, " under her own vine and fig-tree," no raan-stealer " daring to make her afraid." " Ethiopia shall stretch out her hand unto God!" ' LETTER VI. THE ALLEGHANY MOLNTAINS.— CINCINNATL Riiihvay from Baltimore to Cumberland — Company of ^lethodist Ministers — Tlic River Potomac — Town of Cumberland — Hotel Customs, and leed \Vater — Strikin;^ A'icw from the llill above Cumberland — Railway over the AUefrhanies — Cliaraeter of the Seenery — Town of 'Wiieeling — Poliey whieh dictated the Formation of the Great Railway to the West — Names of American Towns — Free State of Ohio — The Located Minister — Horrors of Slavery — The Ohio River — Kentudiv left behind — Arrivid at Cin- cinnati. I MUST now describe to you our journey from Baltimore over the great Alleghany Mountains, by the bright Ohio River, Cincinnati, — the " Queen City of the West," — and over rich prairie and forest lands, on to this " City of Railroads," as it is called, Indianapolis. We left Baltimore by an early morning train, that we might have as much of the daylight as possible while travelling on the Ohio Railway. In the cars we had with us for companions several Methodist delegates, who, like ourselves, were on the way to this place for the General Conference. They were intelligent, well- informed ministers, strong haters of slavery, and thoroughly uni'eserved in speaking their sentiments on what they had seen and learned of that abominable system, h^ome of them were of English birth and edu- catic judi(| therl durij relie tionl oppj certi THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS— CINCINNATL 93 . cation, and were tlius wholly free from American pre- judices concerning African colour and caste. We had, therefore, considerable advantage in our companionships during a long and toilsome journey, and had not only relief and interest arising from them, but also instruc- tion and profit. The first day was very close and oppressive, and we both saw and felt some reason for certain light-coloured — and, to our English eyes, rather unministerial — clothing which some of our American brethren wore. Our first two days were spent in passing along the margins of the Slave States of Maryland and Virginia ; and in our course we saw slaves working in the fields, and serving within and outside of refreshment-rooms, and of private houses. To our thinking, most of them wore a dejected and sorrowful look ; and here, again, in the loose and rude manner in which some of the land was cultivated, we believed we saw signs of what has often been asserted in print, and of what was stoutly maintained by several of our companions, that slave- labour is not really profitable to its owners. !Many of tlie slaves appeared as if they were destitute of sufficient motive for exertion, since they seemed both to work and to wait lazily. The scenery improved upon us as we advanced into the country. At first it was rather flat and tame, but after a time it began to resemble, in its hills and dales, some parts of Derbyshire and of the English lake dis- trict. At many different points we saw and crossed the Potomac River, which separates the States of Maryland and Virginia, and which is more than 500 miles long, from its mouth of seven and a half miles wide at Chesa- peake Bay. This noble river bends greatly and fre- wyr^v 94 THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS— CINCINNATI. «j^, quently in its course, and varies much in the aspect under which it is seen by the traveller through the valley along which it flows. Here it will be seen rolling tumultuously over a wide and broken bed, and there lingering in deep gorges and dark pools; now brawling amidst fragments of rocks and huge boulders, and then it will present a comparatively calm sheet of water, pleasingly dotted with small islands clothed with trees and shrubs. The Potomac is said to have in it abundance of fish, particularly of the white shad, the herring, and the sturgeon. The last-named fish is often found of immense size, weighing as much as 100 lbs., and is seen taking enormous leaps at falls and cascades. The white shad is a flat fish of good substance and flavour, and is not much unlike the sole, so well known and esteemed in England. The shad is a favourite dish at an American table. The Potomac is also frequented at certain seasons by troops of wild swans and flocks of wild geese, which afibrd pastime to sportsmen, and favourite, if not dainty, food for epicures. As we approached Harper's Ferry, eighty-two miles distant from Baltimore, the scenery grew very bold and romantic ; indeed, when viewed from a more elevated point than we attained, the scenery in that neighbour- hood is, reputedlj'-, beautiful and grand. On reaching ** Cumberland, 178 miles from Baltimore, and at the foot of the Alleghany range, we learned that we could remain there for the night, and re-commence our journey the next morning ; so wo resolved to stay, and engaged beds at the hotel nearest the railway station. We were again annoyed by the apparent indifference of the hotel- keeper, and his long delay in making known to us what sleeping-room we could have. If such neglect were to THE ALLEGHANY MOUNIAINS.-CINCINNATL 95 be shown by an innkeeper to his visitors in England, one may venture to say that he would have to close his establishment before many days had gone over his head. When, after long and weary waiting, we attained the knowledge that we could be accommodated, we hastened to refresh ourselves with ablutions of cold water, and, before our evening meal, went out to view the town, and to get a glance at the scenery around it. The town of Cumberland consists chiefly of a main street, running north and south, and having in it the principal " stores ; " and from it two or three cross streets branch off. The number of inhabitants may be about 7000. On an elevated ground, south of the river, there is a court-hoxxse, a good Gothic stone church, with tower and spire, and several villa-like residences of the wealthier inhabitants. The trading part of the town, the bulk of the population, the bank, and several churches, lie north of the suspension-bridge, between the river and the railway. We remarked here the great number of rooms and houses which had written upon the doors, or their sideposts, *' attorney- at-law," and supposed that, as Cumberland is the seat of justice for " Alleghany County," that circumstance might be regarded as the explanation why the number of lawyers here exceeded what is usually found in such a town, even in America, where the legal profession seems to give the readiest passport to political life or office. At our evening meal we found, as we had commonly found it to be in American hotels, th-'.t almost all provi- sions and attentions were given to the ladies. We had, as before, much difficulty in obtaining places at the table, being left behind by boarders and travellers, who ^i\. \ *■■ > ■■**i i »N)^j mu ii|ii i tin ii 96 THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS.— CINCINNATI. rushed into the refreshment-room at the first sound of the bell ; and when, through the kindness of our minis- terial friends, we had obtained seats, we could not very easily obtain tea and food. One luxury we had here, as elsewhere, and which Englishmen who have not been in a hotter climate than their own will hardly know how to value, and that is iced water. This has been our constant beverage since we landed in America ; and it is likely to be so as long as we remain in the States, for we not only do not need anything else, but we do not wish for or desire anything else; and if we did, the customs of American society would forbid it to us, for a minister of religion in this country might almost as soon swear a profane oath as call for wine or spirituous liquor. We do not yet, and, I suppose, we shall not, relish fully the one drinking-can in the railway car for all passengers ; but iced water, where we can obtain it to ourselves, is drunk by us with unspeakable relish. We have more than once expressed our fears to each other that, having enjoyed this luxury here, we shall miss it in our own country when we return. Ice, even when ob- tained in England, is nut so solid, clear, and refreshing as it is in this country. It seems here to give healthful tone to the stomach and firmness to the nerves. After tea, while the ladies repaired to their general drawing-room, and the gentlemen sat near the front windows of their room, some extending their feet over the window-sills, and others with their legs resting on chair-backs, where they chewed, smoked, and spat. Dr. Hannah and I, with some of our ministerial companions, climbed the hill north of the railway, to view the moun- tain-scenery, v/ith the Potomac, as we looked towards the south. The sun was going down behind the hills. THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS— CINCINNATI. 97 mnd of • minis- ot very here, as been in ow how een our ; and it ates, for e do not did, the us, for a ; as sonn lirituous lall not, y car for tain it to 5h. We ch other L miss it vhen ob- sfreshing lealthful general he front feet over sting on spat. Dr. ipanions, le nioun- towards ;he hills, so that the scene had not such mingling of lights and shadows as it would have had if the sun had been higher in the heavens; yet there were before us largely-ex- tended mountain ranges, with stern outlines and deeply awful shade wings, and the setting sun threw his beams of glowing crimson, at openings, across the landscape, and made portions of the river blaze with golden glory. I sketched a memorandum of the outline of the hills and river, but it can give no idea of the sombre gran- deur and mysterious loveliness of the reality. It was an impression for life — a panorama to be remembered and thought of through succeeding years. After this I went alone to view the houses and sheds of the poorer and coloured inhabitants of the town. I found them neither so low nor so mean as the dwellings of the humbler classes in the larger towns which we had visited. There was also a good Methodist church ; and, on the whole, I was cheered by what I saw of the state and order of the town. "VVe went early to bed, that we might be refreshed by sleep before rising at four in the morning ; but the heavy tramp of travellers and boarders going to their beds up to a late hour prevented us from falling asleep ; and just before midnight, when we were closing our eyes with the stillness that followed, an over-eager black man came thundering at our bedroom door, to call us up, in mistake, for the midnight train. This roused us so thoroughly, that our rest was irrecover- ably broken — o circumstance which was much against us after out excitement in Baltimore, and ill-fitted us for the loss of sleep we had afterwards to sustain. At four we rose from our beds, ate a hasty meal, and re- sumed our journey upon the rail. After passing through some scenery which again re- H 98 THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS-CINCINNATI. r ! minded us of our own Skiddaw and Windermere district, we began fairly to ascend the Alleghanies, and had in some parts to be drawn up zigzag roads, and steep inclines, as well as through long, dark tunnels, by power- ful engines. These ranges of mountains do not, like the Alps of Europe, stand forth in clear, snowy, crisp forms, seeming to inhabit and pierce the heavens with tLtv: sharp peaks and ridges : they are of more ronr.A and swelling shapes, and are covered, for the uost ^ja.', with unshorn forests. The height of tiie h',;n ^t point of the Alleghanies is not much more than half the height of " Sovran Mont Blanc :" but the length of this American range dwarfs the Alps; it is nearly 1000 miles, and extends from the State of Georgia through the States of South and North Carolina, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and New York, and terminates in New Hampshire. Numerous rivers have their source in it, and p'ls:; off to the Atlantic on the east, and to the Mis- sissippi on the west. From one of these, the "Alle- ghany Idver," the main group of mountains derives its name. The breadth of the range is sixty or seventy miles. There were some patches of snow remaining on parts where we crossed, but nothing like the vast cold piles we saw on the European Alps. The face of nature, in other respects, was wild and grand. Forest trees, in different stages of growth, maturity, and decay, were to be seen on all sides ; nov, atid then some woodcutter's rougl. and solitary cabin, n,).:! nvimitive in its sh:;pe, peeped out from amids r-.:,: !'u> t, of " priuieval trees ; " and we could catch the echo of the stroke of an axe, or the crash of a falling tree. One would like to realise the effect of these mountains as seen from a plain or valley not far from the foot of them ; passing over them em ! district, I had in ad steep ly power- , like the sp forms, rith tLcv; onv:.l and lObt paxt', st point hulf the Tth of this arly 1000 a through Virginia, 38 in New irce in it, o the Mis- he "AUe- derives its or seventy naining on ! vast cold of nature, ist trees, in ay, were to oodcutter's its eh:.pe, val trees ; " an axe, or 3 to realise a plain or over them THE ALLEGilAXY MOUNTAINS— CINCINNATI. 99 in the manner w< did, I can only say that their general aspect was one of wild and solitary grandeur. With our Methodist associations, it was impossible lo journey over these mountains without recalling the labours of Asbury, M'Kendree, and other zealoun pioneers for Christ, who crossed them to preach His Gospel to the emigrants and settlers in the West, and without com- paring our mode of j( arneying with theirs ; for theirs was indeed solitary travel, and it needed a high heart to tread these pathless forests, whose only tenants were, at that time, wild beasts and savage men. By about four o'clock we reached Wheeling, more than 300 miles from Baltimore, and had our t ist view of the full and broad Ohio River. Wheeling is evidently a thriving and increasing town, and, from its situation, its manufactures, and the great plenty of coal to be found in its neighbourhood, it bids fair to become >i very important town in the States. Here terminates the Ohio Railway, and the ways of transit hence branch off to Pittsburg on the north-east, to Columbus, Ohio, and Indianapolis on the north-west, and to Cincinnati md St. Louis for the great and far West. This town displays some good public and private buildings ; it is surroundt^d by high, bold hills, and it has a broad quay, and a handsome suspension-bridge across the Ohio ; but, like our English manufacturing towns, it is but a sooty, grimy place. The last epithet I might also justifiably employ to describe the ** National Hotel," at which we staj'^ed for the night. We obtained, as usual, a double- bedded room for ourselves, but it was dirty. The noise around us was also annoying, and, for the third night after our Sabbath excitement at Baltimore, we could obtain little or no sleep. I ^. ^ i gj3ft*! gt! j^^ ! 'G .^(Sjwmgt-i.^-ji. ' -.n ^g ■jjr»jS'-V'. 'W.WKa 100 THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAIN-S.-CINCINNATI. As may be supposed, this railway over the Alleghany Mountains is a vast and costly undertaking ; but it is seen to be most important, nationally, to the United States : so the cost has not been spared. From the "West, by the jMississippi and the Lakes, there are outlets to the Atlantic, both on the south and the east, and this without any passage through the States, except by water ; and as it is discerned that the valley of the JMississippi is destined to become the grand granary, not only for the States, but for other parts of the world, American statesmen perceived that, without free and easy communication between this vast corn-field and the manufacturing and commercial towns of the east, the States bordering on the Atlantic would be irreparable losers. To prevent this apprehended diversion of the western corn-traffic into the harbours of New Orleans and Quebec, and to preserve for the Atlantic States full sympathy from those on the Pacific, this gigantic railway over the Allcghanies has been constructed. The wisdom of this policy is unquestionable. AVith the railway and canal from east to west, the States are bound together by commutual ti'ado interests and facility of intercourse, and thus, in spite of the distance of their Pacific from their Atlantic boimdary, feel themselves to be still the Great Federation. The returns of the railway cannot, of course, be immediately remunerative ; but every American and every foreigner must feel tliat the out- lay for its construction has been wisely and nobly spent, and that this Titanic iron tram-way deserves to bo ranked, as it is, among the great national works of America. AW> loft AVhooling at four o'clock on AVedncsday morning, and went «.iii board a steam -packet, which took THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS— CINCINNATI. 101 [eghany »ut it is United e "West, itlets to md this 3ept by ■ of the ary, not e world, ree and and the jast, the Dparable 1 of the Orleans ates full railway wisdom tray and other by ircoiirse, fie from still the cannot, t every ho oiit- nobly 3rvc9 to vorks of [Inosday ell took us about five miles down the Ohio. Here we were set on shore, to start for Cincinnati by the railway through Columbus and London. By the way, the names of English and European cities of distinction are very numerous in the American States ; and not only so, but they multiply the names, having several towns named "Athens," and several "Cambridge," for instance. It might have looked more truly national if the Ame- ricans had given original names to their towns; but one must attribute the present practice, I think, at heart, to interest in the celebrities of the Old World. As for any thought about postal confusion, it has " ' seemed to enter the heads of these namers of towns in America. Columbus, the capital of Ohio, is another great rail- way centre, from which lines branch off in many direc- tions. The scenery of the State of Oliio, as wo beheld it, in travelling through it from east to west, is princi- pally that of forests and clearings. The trees by the sides of the road were of all si/cs and conditions : some were very tall, and interlaced each other witli their spreading branches, while they were richly festooned by creepers and springers ; others were decayed and falling, or burnt black as charcoal both in their huge trunks and arms ; and some had recently been felled by the woodsman, and lay like tall giants shorn of their strength and pride. Some parts of the land looked swampy and uniuviting ; but there were many tracts iu hi;j;h cultivation, and richly clothed with verdure. The dwellings by the way-si^le were really houses in form, and not mere log-cabins, though they wore chiefly formed of boards. Altogether, the State of ( )hio lias a promising and improving aspect, unlike iho worn-out I •! 102 THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS =01NCINNATL \ face which is often presented by th© Intitlscape in the Slaves States of Maryland and Virginitt. I was delighted to see in our oar two handsome bronze-coloured persons sitting nowr to m, chatting and laughing together in the midst of wliito travellers, and eAddently feeling at home among them. This was what I had not hitherto seen in any part ftl' tlio States ; and the remembrance of this inoidi»i»t will Blamp on my mind the cheerful and pleosiint iiiutge of ' free and young Ohio." We rode with our ministorial compa- nions as far as Xenia; tliero thoy went olf directly west for Indianapolis, and avo went Houth-wcst for the city of Cincinnati. In tlie sucuuMuling part of our journey we were recognised by a located niitiister, who was exceedingly kind and attentive to us, but who spoke somewhat apologetically for hlavory in America. This roused British feeling within m\ and on hearing soft things said of the " happiiU'Nn" and "content- ment" of the slaves, we significantly in(|uircd if there were no runaway slaves from Kejitucky in Ohio. Our question drew forth the following ehuddoring state ment : — During the previous hard wiiit<>r rnnny slaves had escaped from the Slave States, over the i(!e of the river Ohio, into the Free State. (Vou will bo reminded of "Eliza" in Mrs. Stowo's "Uncle Torti'H (!al)in.") In Cincinnati and other towns many good humane persons were ready to receive, slutlter, and hide these poor fugitives from their vengeful pui'HiauH. Among the rest, a negro woman, with her ImimIhukI iind two children, thus escaped to the Free Stiito of Ohio. She was ])ur- sued, and her hiding-pluco dineovered and surrounded. Those who had sheltered her went unable to save her. I. THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS —CINCINNATI. 103 )e in the landsome tting and illers, and W118 what utes ; and p on my free and il compa- F directly 8t for the rt of our lister, who but who America, m hearing " content- d if there lio. Our ing state iliives had the river minded of )in.") In lie persons licso poor mor.g the chihlron, > \viis pur- irruuiided. ) Hnvc lior, and there seemed to be nothing left for her but to sur- render. So dreadful was the prospect of returning to her bondage, combined with the knowledge of what severe punishment would be inflicted on her, that she set herself to destroy her whole family rather than go back AS ith them to slavery. She killed one child, and was about to kill the other, before destroying herself, when her fierce pursuers broke into the place, and secured her. Her after- fate I must leave to your ima- gination. The relation of this case, as you may suppose, entirely dissipated all that had been said of the " happi- ness and contentment of slaves in America." Again we came in sight of the Ohio River ; it was flowing smoothly and placidly on by our side, and full of water — though it is not always so, being subject to great elevations and depressions, and rising as much as 60 feet higher in March than in September. We had strongly desired to descend this river, from Wheeling to Cincinnati, that we might see it in its breadth of 2400 feet, — the numerous lovely islets with which it is studded, and its banks adorned with resplendent flowers and foliage of rich and magnificent growth. Our resolution to be at Indianapolis by the beginning of the Conference, prevented this. We have, however, seen sufficient of it to understand the appropriateness of the name, " Ija Belle Riviere," given to it by the French, — who, it will be remembered, greatly coveted the possession of the fine country beyond its border, and longed to add that land to their Canadian terri- tory, but were driven back by the Virginian colonists, headed by AVashington, who was at that time a mere youtli. Looking across this noble stream, we could see on its y^.-rrr^?tj,4^;jJS^^Jr^: SC333 104 THE ALLEQUANT MOUNTAINS.— CINCINNATI. south side, the State of Kentucky, the landscape of which appeared broken, diversified, and lovely, espe- cially as it was reflected on the surface of " the river of beautiful waters" which flowed between us and that State. Kentucky has a great reputation for fertility, so that it is said of it, in American style, — " If you plant a nail in the soil at night, It will come up a spike by morning light 1" From what we have seen of the Kentuckians travel- ling on this side of the water, I should pronounce them interesting and good companions. They are light- hearted, ardent, and dashing ; and are exceedingly loquacious, and very fond of a joke, — a sort of genteel Irish in America. "We woul I willingly have seen more of them, and have visited their celebrated " Mammoth Cave" (with its subterraneous churches, avenues, domes, cataracts, rivers — with their "fishes without eyes," pits, stalactites, and depths of GOO feet, and length of eighteen miles, with an unknown, and as yet unexplored, extent beyond), but we could not do so witliout a serious interruption of our duties. So we left Kentucky without any personal visitation, remem- bering that with all its fertility, beauty, and natural wonders, it is a iState under the ban of slavery ; but with this relieving circumstance, that many of its proprietors desire and seek its deliverance from that accursed evil. In the afternoon of Thursday wc reached Cincinnati, and by the good olHces of our located brother, who accompanied us, wo were soon comfortably provided for at the "Gibson Hotel," and wore able to go out and look at the city. Assuredly it is not without iitness :i. THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS.— CINCINNATI. 105 [scape of ly, espe- e river of and that fertility, ,ns travel- mce them ire light- Lceedingly of genteel seen more Mammoth avenues, s without feet, and a, and as not do so Ho we n, remem- id natural very ; but ny of its from that 'iucinnati, ther, who ovided for o out and »ut iitness that Cincinnati is entitled "The Queen City of the West." It is handsome and stately, and is enthroned on a high, wide platform, in two slopes, on the north side of the broad river. Villas and mansions, embo- somed in trees and shrubberies, flank it and surround it, while the grape is extensively and successfully culti- vated in its vicinity. Less than eighty years ago this city did not contain more than 100 white persons — now it has a population of 210,000, and is the fourth city in rank (if not the third) within the United States. It stood then at the very limit of western civilization; and there yet remain in the neighbourhood buffalo " trails," or hard trodden paths, three or four yards wide, and extending miles away, along which, almost in the me- mory of living man, scores and hundreds of those ani- mals used to crowd down through the forest to drink at the Ohio. Now it is become the grand emporium of western trade and commerce ; is well drained, and well supplied with water ; is paved down to low-water mark at the wharf, and has floating piers to rise and sink with the variable waters of the river; is decked with imposing public buildings, handsome '• stores," and numerous churches ; and its enterprising inhabitants, by the system of railroads and steamboats, are in constant and active communication with all parts of the Union, and, through them, with all parts of the world. The manufactures of Cincinnati are numerous, cm- plo3'ing between 200 and ^00 steam-engines ; but, as you will know, it is chiefly celebrated for the slaughter and sale of hogs. As many as 400,000 of these animals have been known to be cut up here during a season of twelve weeks. We imagined that the scent of S SiTEg C g gsgsgaagiyjLt.: : t 106 THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS— CINCINNATL butchered pigs, which had been caught up into the rarified air from the numerous slaughter-houses during the day, came down upon us in the evening, and did not make the streets, as we walked through them, over fragrant. But very likely the imagination had a good deal to do with our impression. Cincinnati has everywhere the signs of great thrift and enterprise ; and, in spite of its immense butchery of pigs, it is evidently a place of advancing taste and literary culture, as well as a town of rapidly rising commerce. Some of its public buildings are of excel- lent forms and proportions. Its bookshops are among the finest "stores" in its wide, handsome streets; and our own Methodist Book-concern has a large building, and issues very numerous publications in the year. The libraries and reading-rooms of the city are on an exten- sive scale, and many of the young citizens, by their college studies, are preparing themselves for honourable and useful positions in life. We visited the library and the reading-room of the Young Men's Christian Asso- ciation, opposite our hotel, and found them equal, if not superior to anything of the kind in England. Religion, too, is here venerated and liberally supported. There are nearly 1 00 churches of various denominations. The Methodists have a considerable share of them ; and, what to us was a fact of interest, the Germans have here I^Fethodist ministers of their own nation, issue INiethodist publications in their own language, and have erected several of the Methodist churches. The lloman Catholics are numerous, and have tlieir " cathedral," as well as their other churches. After the Methodists rank tlie Baptists, the Protestant Episcopalians, the Presbyterians, and the Lutherans. I CI. THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS.— CINCINNATI. 107 into the les during ;, and did hem, over lad a good reat thrift ! butchery ; taste and dly rising 3 of excel- are among Teets; and e building, year. The 1 an exten- i, by their honourable library and stian Asso- qual, if not Religion, ed. There tions. The icm ; and, •mans have ition, issue 0, and have The Roman thedral," as Methodists mlinns, the Altogether, we received a very favourable impression of Cincinnati; and we resolved, as the night closed upon us and we retired to rest, that, if circumstances would permit, we would return to it from the Con- ference, and get better acquainted with this " Queen City of the West." «M» mi I A i LETTER VIL INDIANAPOLIS. State of Indiana: its Rapid Gi-o\vlh— The City of Iiidianapolis — His Excel- lency the Governor and his House — Methodism in the State and in the City — Public Religious Services — American Preaching — A Bishop's Ser- mon — The Sabbath School — A Love-feast — American Fires — Political Life — A Stump Orator — The Ballot-box — An Inner Circle in American Society — Southern Visitors -Glimpses of Slave-life — Xn Irishman's Bull — Ministerial Intercourse — Sad News from England. Less than half a century ago this extensive and flourish- ing State of Indiana, which contains about 22,000,000 of acres, was an uncultivated wilderness of forest, swamp, and prairie land, and was inhabited by wild beasts, poisonous reptiles, and sava^" men. Now it is largely under cultivation, is divided into numerous counties, has numerous towns, its capital city, its own legisla- tive assembly, its state governor, judges, and various officers, and a population of more than one million and a quarter. The State is favourably situated : it extends from the river Ohio, on its southern boundary, to Lake Michigan on the north ; and has the Wabash lliver on its western limit for more than 120 miles, while the White River runs up eastward into its centre. Indiana is, for the most part, an agricultural State, possessing a deep vegetable soil, wliich the " returns" of its Agricultural Society show to be very productive. There INDIANAPOLIS. 109 is— His Excel- ,ate and in tUe t Bishop's Ser- [•'ires — Political le ill American Iiishman's Bull nd flourisli- 22,000,000 rest, swamp, vild beasts, it is largely lis counties, )wn legisla- and various million and : it extends ary, to Lake sh River on s, while the I'e. Indiana e, possessing rns" of its fctive. There are beds of coal and iron in it, which are near to the surface ; it is intersected by numerous railways, and is in the way of the great thoroughfare from the south to the north-western part of the country. Indianapolis, the capital (at which we arrived by- railway, a journey over forest-lands and "clearings" of about 100 miles from Cincinnati), stands in the middle of the State, and is built on a level and extensive plain of richly- wooded land ; it is the meeting-point for many railways, and on that account has been named "the City of Railroads." The ground on which it stands, with many miles of land around it, was covered by a dense forest, and was sold for 35,696 dollars (about £7120) ; now it is worth seventy times as much, is divided on every side into squares, streets, and gardens, as far as the eye can reach, and is adorned with many public buildings. The city is very regular in its plan, being laid out in streets that diverge from a common centre, and radiate in all directions to the extent, in some instances, of two miles. In this respect it is not unlike the city of Washington, and looks well when it is viewed from an elevated position, though here, as there, some of the streets have little more to mark their existence than the wooden fences at their sides, cr the occasional dottings of a house or cottage. The prin- cipal street is named " Washington Street ;" this is the chief thoroughfare both for passage and for business. It contains some good buildings and " stores" of brick and stone, wherein may be purchased, not only the necessaries of life, but also its luxuries and delicacies, brought from London and Paris. This street, like the rest in Indianapolis, is yet unpaved, and, at times, is deeply cut in its light soil by heavy traffic. In some no INDIANAPOLIS. parts, where the ground has not been trodden down hard, especially towards the extremities of the town, planks are laid for the wheels of vehicles to run upon. Several of the streets are planted at their sides with trees, which, in their perspective length of avenue, and now in their light-green spring leaves, look very beau- tiful; while, at intervals, there aie quiet village-like openings, revealing pleasant cottages, villas, and clean, summer-like residences, surrounded with their gardens or orchards. Tne public buildxn->s here are respectable, but not so imposing as those of the larger cities we have visited. The State House stands in the middle of a spacious square, which is planted with trees ; the build- ing is a copy from the Parthenon at Athens, but being only of brick and stucco, it lacks dignity. Its length is 180 feet, its width 80 feet, and its height, to the top of the central domi'. 45 feet. The asylums for the blind, for the deaf and dvinh, aud for the insane, all three of which are in the suburbs, are also large and fair-looking edifices. From the central turret of the Blind Asylum an extensive view may be had of the city, with its radiating streets, its green avenues, and its encircling woods. Tie population of Indianapolis amounts nearly to 20,000, and is chiefly white ; some free coloured people live in the outskirts, but they are not many. The governor's house — where we are entertained during our stay for the Conference — is a villa-like build- ing of wood, containing about ten rooms; it is sur- rounded by a garden, and stands near a street which leads to the front of the State House. The governor's house is such a one, both in size and fittings, as a retired English gentleman, living at the rate of £400 or £000 a year, would bo able to keep up. In America, INDIANAPOLIS. Ill den down the town, an upon, sides with venue, and very beau- village-W^e , and clean, eir gardens respectable, ties we have middle of a i; the build- is, but being , Its length bt, to the top for the blind, s, all three of I fair-looking iliud Asylum city, with its its encircling iiounts nearly free coloured lot many, e entertained ilia-like build- ms; it is sur- a street which 'he governor's fittings, as a rate of i^-tOO In America, of course, money will purchase more than with us, and I should suppose that the governor may be able to support an establishment such as this for £300 at the most. The salary of his office, though the very highest in the State, is only about £200 a year ; and he has told me that he expends half us much more from his own private resources. The house, with its furniture, is provided by the State, and is set apart for the governor during the period of his office. The present governor — his Excellency Joseph A. Wright, Esq. — is a tall, well-made, intelligent, frank, and hospitable man. He has received us with the greatest cordiality, and is ever anxious to supply to us the best of whatever his house coi' tains. lie is evidently a man of good information and of rt'vdy utterance, and, like the Americans generally, is always eager to com- municate on subjects of interest, lie is very regular and systematic in his mode of life, rises and breakfasts early, dines at half-past twelve at noon, sups at six, and retires to bed at ten. His house, and table too, are free to all who choose to call upon him or upon us, and altogether we are most comfortably situated. Our host is ready to take us anywhere, or to explain to us any- thing, and perceiving our interest in American matters, he converses with us upon them in the freest and most unreserved manner. He is one of those men who devote their lives to public care ; he has held various offices, has been a member of Congress, and says that when his term of office expires in Indiana, as it will this year, he shall seek some other public employ, either in this or some other State. Not having ample means of his own to fall back upon, his personal character and abilities are his best recommendations. He is a truly r'""»inirr~.imii 112 INDIA NOPOLIS. religious man and a very devoted Methodist, supporting the cause of Christ to the extent of his ability ; and teaching personally in the Sabbath-school connected with the church at which he worships. Methodism prospers in Indiana. There are 100,000 full members of the Methodist Episcopal Church within the State, to say nothing of the great numbers who attend on the Methodist ministry as hearers of the word, without being enrolled in membership. In Indianapolis itself there is much public respect shown for religion ; there are here, belonging to different denominations, as many as twenty-five churches, and seven of these, including an African church, belong to the Methodists. The Sabbath-schools are twenty- seven in number, and in attendance upon them nearly all the children of the city are to be found, — there being not more than 250 children of eligible age who do not actually attend some Sabbath-school. Among the dif- ferent sects of professing Christians here, those of them who hold orthodox sentiments keep up friendly and fraternal communication with each other. Several of the Methodist delegates to this Conference are lodged at the houses of Presbyterians and Protestant Episcopa- lians ; and, on the Sabbath, several churches of other denominations are supplied by Methodist preachers during the Conference. Dr. Hannah and I have been highly gratified with the public services we have attended in the Methodist churches of the city. The doctor has been very happy in his ministrations. Ilis sermons have been charac- terised by his usual eloquence, and by blessed effects upon his audiences. The attendance at the services we conducted was large ; the ministers not personally em- INDIANAPOLIS. 113 , siipporting bility; an^ I conBected are 100,000 lurch within lumbers who arers of the bership. ^^ espect shown to different churches, and reh, belong to twenty- seven nearly all the lere being not ;e who do not mong the dif- those of them ^ , friendly and i .r. Several of -e are lodged at ] itant Episcopa- ivches of other adist preachers f gratified with , the Methodist ,een very happy ^e been charac- blessed effects the services we personally em- ployed were present ; and the people, not merely from the city of Indianapolis, but from surrounding states and cities, crowded to hear the English preachers. Not unfrequently the congregations assemble some time be- fore the service is to commence, and sing harmonious pieces together, as they sit, just as a family might sing together in their home. This they did until we ascended the pulpit for the regular service. The devo- tion of the ministers and people was very fervent ; and at the end of the sermon we had to wait until the exclamations of " Praise the Lord ! " had somewhat subsided before we could proceed to give out the hymn. The American preaching which we have heard is not so methodical and compact as the English. It is drawn less from the text, and deals more with extraneous re- mark — or what would be deemed such in England. But if the value of the instrument is to be measured by the effects produced, then American Methodist preaching must be pronounced most fit and excellent; for, of a truth, it has been most wonderfully owned of God. We heard an excellent sermon from the venerable Bishop "VVaugh. He preached on the Sabbath morning in the German Methodist church ; and a more truly apostolic discourse could hardly be delivered. It was on the direction given by Paul and Silas to the penitent jailer — " Believe on the Lord Jesus Christ, and thou shalt be saved." It was simple, evangelical, and full of divine unction and power. The German Methodists very evidently profited by it ; and at the end of it they sang with fervour their German song of " Praise to God." Several additional services have been held during the time of Conference. There has been a tract meeting, where several American brethren, with Dr. Hannah, I ''^■ WMMiM e0»u 114 INDIANAPOLIS. spoke very ably. There was a meeting for Methodism in Ireland. The Rev. J. Eobinson Scott explained the object of the meeting, Bishops Simpson and Janes, with other ministers, spoke earnestly in support of it ; and a liberal collection was made. It was reported that, to aid Methodism in Ireland, some £10,000 had already been contributed by the Methodists in America, and that it was confidently expected the sum of £20,000 would ultimately be supplied by them. On the Sabbath afternoon, I went with the governor to the school in which he regularly teaches, and de- livered an address to the children. On arriving at the school, I was highly gratified by a novel spectacle which might be imitated with profit in some parts of our own country. Not only the children in the school, but many adults, grouped in companies, were reading the word of God together, verse by verse in rotation, and then edifying one another by making such remarks as were presented to their minds. A more profitable method of employing the hours of a Sabbath afternoon, for many persons in mature years, could scarcely be pointed out. A love-feast has also been held during the Conference, and I think it will never be forgotten by them that were present. Not only ^lethodists from difierent parts of Indiana, and from surrounding States attended it, but also ministers from the plains and woods of the far west. One of these, with sun-burnt countenance and whitened hair, said, " I have slept on the banks of many westei-n rivers ; I have been attacked in the night, and when alone, by wolves; I have travelled, slept, laboured, and prayed, between terrible tribes of Indians at war with each other ; 1 liavo been iu perils by wild MM INDIANAPOLIS. 115 thodism Lned the L Janes, rt of it ; reported 000 had America, JB20,000 governor and de- ll g at the cle which our own hool, but iding the [tion, and smarks as profitable fternoon, arcely be |)nforcnce, lem that different attended Ids of the liutenanco bunks of |}ie night, n\, slept, If Indiuns by wild beasts, by land and by water, and this for forty years : and. yet my heart has not only trusted , but rejoiced in the Lord, and I am now enjoying perfect love ! " Others told how the lion and the wolf in sin had entered the log-cabin to devour the liLtle flock, but were smitten down by the word of Christ, ar d became lambs for the charge of the spiritual shepherd. And emigrants and settlers of different nations told with tears how they left their father-lands to find in a strange country the way of life and salvation. It was, indeed, a scene of heart-subduing influences, and of moral beauty and grandeur, such as Christianity alone can exhibit. I have been strongly urged to preach in the open air, and to hold a sort of camp-meeting service. This I should have been glad to do, but I was afraid of the effect of the heated atmosphere. Without any exercise, I am daily in such a state of perspiration as to require at times several changes in clothes during tlie day. The air is close and humid, and sometimes has the same stifling effect upon us as is felt in England just before a thunder- storm. Several of the ministers have suff'erf d from a sort of miasma, which, in the valley of the Mississippi is common, as are also " chills" and "fevers," the eftects of the great profusion of decaying vegetable matter. And if I had yielded to my desire of hearing some of the backwoodsmen preach in the open air, the time spoken of for the camp-meeting would not have served ; since, on that day, as also on the night preceding, the rain fell in torrents, ploughed up the unpuved roiuLs, and so filled them with water that wo might have floated along them in a canoe. While I thus refer to the air and the water, I must not forget to name anotlier element that has called forth our p 116 INDIANAPOLm. excited attention daily. 1 moan the Glomont of fire, which here commits terrible destruution of property, and occasions frequent alarm. In New York, and other large cities of the States, we houi'd tho llro-bcU ringing often, both by day and by night. Unt in Indianapolis, there seems to be hardly any coHgation of fires. The peal of the fire-bell is heard, I hud uhnost said, con- tinuously. "We can scarcely attuiid a public service, either on the Sabbath or wook-(hiy, but during it we hear the fire-bell's loud and hurriod clung, and the rattle of the fire-engines tbrougli tlio Btrccts to the place of conflagration. The great uutubor of wooden erections in the city is, I suppose, an oxplanation of this fact. And, to judge from what wo luivo seen, Avhen a wooden building takes fire, thuro in no chance of saving it from total destruction. All that tun bo done by the working of the engines in to prevent tho flames spreading to the adjacent buildiii^ii. As in l{lngland, where there is a fire, groat crowds ruf«h to it. But, in America, the crowds proHH up uIono to tho engines and the firemen, there being no ropiw Mtrotched across the road to secure a free working npuoo from intrusion. We have had some insight into American political and public life while here, an I LETTER VIII. PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA FROM 1773 TO 1792. Early Labourers: Embury, Webb, Boardman, Pihnoor, Asbury, Straw- bridge, and Williams — Spiritual Lifelessuess of other Churches ; and their Quickening, by the Introduction of Methodism — Laudable Example of the Rev. Mr. Jarratt, a Clergym.an of the Established Church — Mr. Rankin sent by !>rr. Wesley — Question of thp Sacramental Ordinances — Disturbing Effect of the Revolution on Methodism — Sufferings of the Preachers — Settlement of the Country, and Re-organisation of Me- thodism — Labours of Bishop Asbury, Garrettson, and Jesse Lee — First General Conference, and Revision of the Constitution of American Methodism. Before I enter on a description of conferential pro- ceedings here, I judge it will be really interesting to you to have in your possession a brief retrospect of the progress of Methodism on this continent, together with slight pen-and-ink sketches of its most devoted and successful labourers. I will therefore endeavour, in this letter, to set forth the advance and growth of Me- thodism here, from the time of the meeting of its preachers in the Quaker City, in the year 1773 (which I previously noted), to the time of the first General Conference held in the city of Baltimore, in the year 1792. My authorities will be the writers of various English and American books (which I have at hand), 'S- 1773 ury, Straw- irchcs ; and blc Example :hureh — Mr. )rdinances — rings of the ion of Me- Lee— First )f American itial pro- •esting to !ct of the Ither with oted and ,r, in this of Me- g of its 3 (which General the year if various at hand), PROGRESS OP METHODISM IN AMERICA. 127 the chief of them being Dr. Bangs, the author of the " History of the Methodist Episcopal Church in Ame- rica;" but I shall also add some information derived from Methodist friends in America, with whom I have conversed. That meeting of Methodist preachers in Philadel- phia was the first regular " conference" ever held for Methodism in America. Before that, the meetings held officially in relation to the societies which had been formed were simply quarterly meetings for the circuits, separately; but the conference of preachers held in Philadelphia, in 1773, was for all the circuits, con- nexionally; and the number of 1160 members then returned, shows how, by the instrumentality of a few labourers from Ireland and England, the work of God had extended and grown. Philip Embury and Captain Webb had laboured successfully in New York, Long Island, and Philadelphia. Mr. Boardman had carried the Gospel message into the north as far as Boston, and Mr. Pilmoor into the south as far as South Carolina. The indefatigabl(^ airl persevering Asbury had not only toiled, for th i and six months at a time, in the central cities of New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore ; but he had also traversed the intervening and surrounding parts, pteaching the Gospel of Jesus Christ, daily, to settlers and to negroes. Other labourers had sprung forth to aid these devoted and zealous men in their holy work. A Mr. Strawbridge, formerly a local preacher in Ireland, and who had settled in Frfderick County, Virginia, began to preach in his own house ; and after- wards went forth to surrounding villages and towns, proclaiming salvation through Christ to congregations in log-huts and by the way-side, until, at length, he i /' J mawiijafTWHij^iii j^m 128 PROGRESS OP METHODISM IN AMERICA. separated himself wholly from secular pursuits, and be- came an itinerant Methodist preacher. Mr. Williams, too, a local preacher from England, and who bore a note of credit from Mr. Wesley to preach under the direction of his missionaries, travelled as far as Norfolk, in the south-east portion of Virginia, publishing the good news of the Gospel to the people. So that within the short apace of five or six years, the truth as it is in Jesus had been proclaimed by a few poor itinerant Methodist preachers through the greater part of what, at that period, constituted the most populous region of the North American States. In addition to this, it may be affirmed as unquestion- ably as in England, that the preaching and services of Methodism had been the means of quickening into life and spiritual activity, existing churches which were previously formal and lifeless. When the first Me- thodist missionaries went from England to America, nearly all the churches of the colony were destitute of earnest godliness. The churches of the South belonged principally to the Established Church of England ; and, just as it was with the parent Church in our ovn country, vital piety was scarcely known among them, and they were marked by little but the observance of external forms and ceremonies. The nonconformist churches, legally established in the north, owed their origin to the " Pilgrim Fathers ;" but while they still resembled thoir founders in rigid intolerance to Chrisliaiis of other views, they had so far departed from the stern discipline of their Puritan predecessors as to be unable to bear, in their pulpits, the earnest preacliing of the great and good Jonathan Edwards against youthful immoralities. ij—iBi^irii md be- 'illiams, bore a ider the Norfolk, ling the kt within s it is in itinerant of what, region of question- ervices of y into life lich were first Me- America, Bstitute of belonged ^in gland ; our own )ng thera, vunce of onformist wed their ile they erance to departed edececsora Bio earnest Edwards PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. 129 It is true, that the ardent and eloquent Whitefield had been among these churches, both of the south and the north, and had aroused their attention, temporarily, to vital religion ; but, for want of organisation and permanent agency, the revival of the work of God imder him in America, for the most part, subsided, and lived only in the recollections of those who had heard his powerful preaching. There were also in the middle provinces, it is said, some few ministers and members of Presbyterian and Dutch Ilcformed Churches who had solid learning and fervent pietj'. These happily excep- tional cases, however, were few indeed, and did not ma- terially relieve the cold and formal state of the general American Church. The majority of its professing mem- bers were spiritually dead, while they had a name to live. But, on the introduction of Methodism, some of the ministers and chui'ches were stimulated to earnest efforts for the revival of experimental and su\ ing religion. This seems to have been eminently the case with the Rev. INIr. Jarratt, a clergyman of tlie Church of Eng- land, in the State of Virginia. Tie fully imbibed the spirit of Methodism, and, fraternally co-operating with its preachers, formed his awakened parishioners into classes, and led them on from the eleniOntary principles of reliirion, to maturitv of Christian lite and character. Some of his own statements, in letters of iiis still extant, are precious records of Pentecostal visitations of grace, to him and his people. These letters prove that tlio faithful preaching of the truth as it is in Jesus, in believing doi)endenco on the Holy Spirit's influence, will assuredly and unfailingly bo made Ihe means of spiritual awakening to a peoi)le, however dmid they may be in trespasses and si^a. If truth would authorise K 4 f 130 PROGRESS OP METIIOPWM IN AMERICA. I; the statement, it would bo plonsfint to htvvo to add, that this good minister of the Lord JoNus Christ continued to the end of his life to co-opcriito with Methodist minis- ters in their great and suceosMful work. Jhit the best of human characters has its iniirmiiicN und prejudices ; and when the Rev. Mr. Jurrutt found thtit the Methodist societies were organised into w Rtipuriito and formal Church, he was so disappointed mid oflbtided, that he not oidy ceased to co-oporate witli ISluiliodist ministers, but even wrote letters against thum, Mr. Rankin, who, imniediiitttly on hi« nrrivol, sum- moned the Methodist preachern in America to meet him, at the first conference in Vhiladfl[)liia, seems to have been sent by Mr. Wesley more eHpeelully for the esta- blishment and maintenance of diNcipliiio in the societies. The saving doctrines of the (JoHpi'l bud been success- fully preached by the itinerant h I Imve named ; but the converts had not been fully bi'(iuM;ht into order, and under government. Tliis, to the orderly and practical mind of ^Ir. AVesley, was not HutiHlactory ; for, unlike the seraphic Whitetield, ho was nioHt curefid to conserve and to mature the woik of divint) ^;rat'o begun under the preaching of the Scriptural word, lie therefore sent over ^Ir. Rankin, a Ncotchmitn, und a determined disciplinarian, to be his gCiU'ral tiHNiKlant. for the orga- nisation of ^lethodisin in America. And this end of his coming to this continent, Mr. Katdun, to a great extent, accomplished, lie nu»t with Home dilliculties in a few of the societies; and Mr. ANhiiry thought that ho assumed too much authority over th(t preachers; but ho pursued his course witii rigid «'oiiMeieiilinuHMeHH ; und, at the end of one year of Htiicter ral superintendency ; and that 3Iessrs. "NVluit- coat and Vasey were ordained " eldei-s" for the Church. The establisliment of church (lisci[)line by ^Ir. Rankin, before the " War of Indi'pendence," was most op- portune ; for the war, it is scarcely necessary to say, I 132 PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. seriously interfered with the labours of the preachers, and the spread of i>Icthodism, in America. The societies and congregations Avere, of course, disturbed by the general commotion ; and many of them wore reduced and broken by the engagement of some of their members in the war. • The English preachers, too, were naturally unwilling to make haste in taking the oath of eUegianco to the States ; and so fell under suspicion of political aims, and of enmity to the independence of the colony. Mr. Wesley's loyal letter on their duty to their sovereign did not contribute to the safety of the preachers. Some of them were silenced, others were fined, and some im- prisoned. Messrs. Boardman, Pilmoor, and Rankin, returned to England. And even Mr, Asbury, who, though unwilling to take the oath of allegiance to the States (while, as yet, their indcjjcndence was unac- knowledged by the mother country), yet resolved not to leave so fair a hold of evangelical labour, had to conceal himself by day; and, under covering of night steal forth to the settlors' cabins and negroes' huts, to speak and to pray with his people. Hut, with all tlieso difficulties and disturbances, Methodism, now brought xmder regular discipline, lived; and, in some degree, increased. Th(- preachers, from tlieir prisons, preached through the iron bars to their people, and to multitudes who pressed to hear them, until, as in the case of ]\[r. John Hartley, in fiueen Anne's County, ]\[aiylim(l, the authorities released the preachers, lest all the people of Mie towns should bo converted to Methodism. Mr. Fn^liorn Garreitson, after being con- fined for s( iiie time in the prison of Dorchester County, in the same State of Maryland, where at night he luid to lie on the cold ground, with no pillow but u pair of Cc VS^'^tB^mrfSTHma^^SZ tv —-—«**— —«l . «, I ■—mil III pouuty, 1 ho had [pair of PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. 1 ^"5 1 jO saddle-bags, and with two grated windows constantly open to the air, on being liberated by the governor, at the suit of Mr. Asbury, immediately recommenced his appointed work of preaching the Gospel, and with blessed success. " The word of the Lo'd spread through all that country," as he himself states, " and himdreds of both white and black experienced the love of Jesus ;" so that, not far from the place of his imprisonment, he soon afterwards preached to a congregation of not less than 3000 persons, and many of his bitterest perse- cutors became, there and then, joyfid converts to the faith of the Lord Jesus Christ. AVhen, however, the war was ended, then the labourers in the Gospel returned to their employment without restraint on the part of the newly-constituted authorities of tlie llcpubli<^ ; and, on the arrival of Dr. Coke and his companions, pro- ceeded to organise themselves and their people into a separate and regular church, under the authority of Mr. Wesley. This organisation of ^rethodism, in America, into a distinct church, took place, as I have already ytateJ, in the city of lUiltimore, in the year 178 i, under the joint suporintendency of Dr. Coke and ^Mr. Asbury. The preachers assembled there at that time to the number of sixty, being about three-fourths of the entire number then labouiing in this continent. The first act of the Conference was to elect Dr. Coke and Mr. Asbury to be joint superintendents : thus making Mr. Wesley's api)oin(mont their own, by an united act ; and thus meeting the views of j\Ir. Asbury, who refused to ac- cept the offiee to whicli he had been appointed by Mr. AVesley, unless elected to it by the suH'rages of his bretiiren in America. Twelve of the preachers wero n I' mil 134 PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. then elected and ordained as " elders" to administer the sacraments, and to have a general supervision of asso- ciated circuits. The " Articles of Religion," as given by Mr. Wesley in his "Abridged Form of Common Prayer," which he had prepared for the American Church, were then agreed upon, and made the standard of Methodist doctrine. These " Articles" were selected from the thirty-nine Articles of the Church of England, but were reduced to twenty-five by Mr. Wesley ; he having ex- cluded such as were doubtful, or unnecessary, in his own judgment, for a list which should form an authorised standard of Christian doctrine. The " Form of Dis- cipline" was also agreed upon; and is similar to the discipline of our own Methodist Society in England, except that it is adapted to the more formal " Episcopal" construction of church- government established in Ame- rican Methodism. Thus, the Methodist Church of America was regu- larly organised and inaugurated, something more than fourscore years ago ; and it is impossible to trace Metliodism in this country, from its commencement in 176G up to this period of 1784, and not sec how un- doubtedly it Avas the work of God, and how signally it was, in its successive stages, under His providential guardiansliip and direction. In its beginning it was small and feeble. It was not delegated and sent b}^ any man's iinthority. It was not sown or i)l:tnted by any authorised ministry, but by a faithful aged Christian woman, and a re-awakentd lay preacher. It began without system, furtlier than that five or six persons agreed to meet together in a private house, for prayer and Christian fellowship. It laid down no precise plan of operation ; for Methodism in America was not, any *~" " '— ~ .»»i— ^. iyjynT|||||)|g|iiip||j|,i|| „i |gi PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. 135 more than in England, the result of human sagacity and foresight. It ^yas not sketched out at full length and breadth, in cloistered retirement, before being car- ried out into public action, like the wily and craft- woven system of Loyola. It was formed and matured piecemeal, and according to the advance and require- ment of circumstances. It outreached the thoughts and purposes of the steady and legislative mind of Mr. AVesley. It broke in upon his authority ; burst through his prejudices and predilection!^ for the Established Church of England ; and framed itself into a regular, separate, and independent Church, making its preachers "ministers," and its superintendents "elders" and " bishops." Mr. Wesley, however, in this instance, as in others, showed unraistukeably, that for the work of God he vas ready to racrifice any views and purposes of his own. "When the organisation of American Methodism into a regular and separate Church became necessary, he cheerfully acquiesced ; and, fully satisfied, as he states, of the Scriptural parit}' of bishops and presbyters (or elders), he ordained and set apart Dr. Coke for the office of general superintendent, and sent him forth to organise the Church, and, witli Mr. Asbury, to take the oversight of it. And here we may undoubtedly see ]\Ir. Wesley's view of the form of full-church goverinncnt, where circumstances warrant and require its adoption. It is that of a rresbytero-Episcopal Church, such v~ existed and flourished in the first ages of Christianity. Associated oversight of the churches (local societies) and their ministers is provided for ; and yet the bishops (over80(>rs or superintendents) are not independent of the presbytery (or elders), but are elected to their office 1 \ It I i i; i! 1 ^* ! : 136 PROGRESS OP METHODISM IN AMERICA. by their ministerial brethren associated in conference, and are held responsible for their character and acts to nat conference. On the organisation of the Church the preachers went, severally, to their appointed circuits ; and the general superintendents began to travel to and frC' throughout the connection, taking episcopal oversight of the churches and of their ministers. Both the bishops and ministers devoted themselves earnestly to their work, and eiulured hardship as good soldiers of Jesus Christ, ilr. Freeborn Garrettson (now an "elder") went, with Mr. James 0. Cromwell, to Nova Scotia, at the request of Mr. "Wesley and Dr. Coke. The purpose for which he was sent was, to form a society among the jNlethodist settlers ; and he was exposed to no incon- siderable amount of peril and suffering. Mr. Garrettson relates of his dangers in travelling : — "I trfiverscd tlio mouiituins and valleys, fi'c(|U(;ntly on foot, with my knapsack on my back, iiuidcd by Indian pallis in tlic wilderness, when it was not expedient to lake a horse ; and I had oClen to wade tlirongli mo- rasses hall-leg deep in mud and water, frequently satisfying my luuiger with a piece of bread and pork from my knapsack, quenching my thirst from a brook, and resting my we.iry limb,' mi tlie leaves of the trees. Thanks be to God! lie conipcnsalcd mc for all my toil, for many precious souls were awakened and converted to God," In addition to this, i\rr. Garrettson suffered much, not only from persecution by the un regenerate world, but also from violent opposition by Antinomian professors. But notwithstanding these difficulties, the faithful la- bourer pursued his coui-se ; and when, two years after- wards, he departed from that British province and returned to the United States, he left as many as 000 members in the societies which ho hud formed, and PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. 137 whicli were then transferred, for ministerial supply and government, to the British Conference. Bishop Asbury, and Mr. Lee went together south, as far as Charleston, in South Carolina, and established Methodism there ; for though both the Wcsleys, White- field, and Pilmoor, had been there previously, yet no permanent footing had been obtained by their transient visits : but now a Mr. "Willis was left in charge with the work of God in that port, that it might be duly fostered and preserved. The woods of Kentucky were now penetrated by some Methodist local preachers, and the scattered groups of enterprising settlers wore fol- lowed by them with the word of life. One of these local preachers was attacked in his boat, on the Ohio, by savage Indians ; and died witliin it, kneeling down and shouting praises to God. The indefatigable Asbury itinerated north and south, labouring in the Gospel of Jesus Christ. At one time we find him at New York, with Dr. Coke ; then preaching on Long Island ; then traversing the middle States, and going down into the South, by the " Dismal Swamp " of Virginia, into North Carolina ; and afterwards visiting ^Maryland, crossing and re-crossing the Alleghany ^lountuins. The notes by the bishop, in his "journal," on these long and perilous journeys, are truly interesting ; and give us by a few '.vords an insight into the labours, pri- vations, and sufferings of American Methodist preachers in those times. Of his passage through the Dismal Swamp of Virginia he says, " I found we had to go twelve miles by water, and send the horses another way. Oh, what a world of swamps and rivers and islands wo live in here ! " Of his travel over the Alleghany Mountains he records : — \, 138 PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. I < "Thursday, 10th (1788). Wc had to cross the Alleghany Jlouutain again at a bud passage. Our course lay over mountains and through valleys, and the mud and mire were such as might scarcely he expected in December. We came (o an old forsaken habitation in Tygers' Valley : here our horses grazed about \xliile we boiled our meat: midnight brought us up at Jones's, after riding forty, or perhaps fifty miles. The old man, our host, was kind enough to take us up at four o'clock in the morning. We journeyed ou through devious lonely wilds, where no food might be found, except what grew in the woods, or was carried with us. We met with two women who were going to see their friends, and to attend the (inarterly meeting at Clarksburg. Near midnight we stopped at A 's, ivho liisscd his dogs at us : but the women were detcrmiued to get to quarterly meeting, so we went in. Our supper was tea. Brothers Phoebus and Cook took to the woods; old gave up his bed to the women. I lay along the floor on a few deer-skins with tlic tleas. That night our poor horses got no corn ; and the next morning they had to swim across the Monongahela : after a twenty miles' ride we came to Clarksburg, and nuui and beast were so outdone that it took us ten hours to aceoniplish it. I lodged with Col. Jackson. Our meeting was held in a long close room belonging to the Baptists: our use of the liouse, it seems, gave ofTeuce. Tiier'; atteiulcd about 7U0 i>coplc, to whom I preached with freedom ; and I believe the Lord's power reached the hearts of some. After administering the sacrament, I was well satisiled to take my leave. We rode thirty miles to Father llaymoud's, after three o'clock, Sunday afternoon, and made it nearly eleven before we came in ; about mid- night we went to rest, and rose at five o'clock next nu)!'ning. l\]y mind has been severely tried under the great fatigue endured both by myself and horse. O, how glad should 1 be of a plain, clean plank to lie on, as prefer- able to most of the beds; and where the beds are in a bad state, tin: lloors are worse. The gnats are almost as troublesome here as the mosdietoes in the lowlands of the seaboard. This country will require nuich work to make it tolerable. The peo])le are, many of Iheiu, ol' the boldest cast of adventurers, and with some the deccucies of civilised society are scarcely regarded, two instances of which I myself witnessed. The great laudnolders who are industrious will soon show the cll'cets of tlie aristocracy of wealth, by lording it over their poorer neighbours, and by securing to themselves all the otlices of profit or honour: on the one hand savage warfare teaches them to be cruel ; and on the other the preaching of Antinomians poisons them with error in doctrine : good nujralists they are not, and good Christians they cannot be, unless they are better taught." Of auotlier journey, made in 1789, over these Ame- ' Laiueil fail. liard HI (his disagrt PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. 139 f, " Ame- rican alps, to visit Kentucky, which was then a com- parative wilderness, he has recorded that, in some places, the mountains " rose up before him like the roof of a house ;" and he adds, — " Those who wish to know how rough it is mny tread in our pnths. What made it worse to me was, that wliile I was looking to see what liad become of my guide, I was carried off with fidl force against a tree that hung across the road, some distance from the ground, and my head received a very great jar, which, however, was ksscncd by my having on a hat that was strong in the crown From December Itth, 1789, to April, 20th, 17'JO, we comjute to have travelled 2578 miles. Hitherto has the Lord helped. Glory ! glory to our God ! . . . I fotind the poor preachers indillerently clad, with emaciated bodies, and subject to hard fare, but I hope they are rich in faith." Such were the 1 1 hours, privations, and hardships, of the first Methodist bishops, and of their itinerant brethren, in America. And, in addition to these, they were not unfrequently exposed to " perils in the wilder- ness" from hostile and revengeful Indians, who way- laid the solitary white traveller, or tracked hira on his path, with the fell intent to tomahawk and sculp him. To this danger Bishop Asbury was exposed in his journeyings over the swamps and through the forests. Sometimes, from their knowledge that there would be hostile Indians in the way, it was necessary for white travellers to associate themselves in companies, and travel in " caravan." An instance of this Bishop Asbury has noted, in his journal ibr the year 1792 : — " Wednesday 5th. This morning we again swam the river," (namely, Laiirel llivcr,) " and the west fork thereof. My little horse was ready lo fail. I was steeped with water up to the waist. About seven o'clock, with hard pushing, wc reached the Cral) Orchard. How much I have sntVci-ed in this journey is only known to God and myself. What added much to its disagrceableuess was the extreme filthiness of the houses." \ 140 PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. Kn devoted heralds of the Cross pursued their eoursn (if jlnjy amidst all obstacles, not counting their own IIvcn di iir iiiilo thetn, in compa- rison wltii tlicir high Hpiriliial (iltjcct. 'I'hc; privations and sufferings of thcso ilini'i'atit lai>o«irers in the wild and uncultivated parts of tho country seem to havo been very great. Some of thetn are related to havo passed as many as twenly«ono KueceHsivn nights in tho open wiMerncHs ; and «)ften they had to swim across broad, flooded rivers and creukN, and then to sleep in ■■:|i1 PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. 115 ;;m" their wet clothes on the hard, cold ground. Others gicked their way through hundreds of miles in the forest, by Indian trails and marked trees, to the scat- tered huts and cabins of settlers, that they might carry the word of life to families separated from religious means and ordinances, and who had sunk down into such degraded depths of ignorance that they had to be taught the very first elements of worship, — for they knew not when to sit to hear, or kneel to pray ! Of others it is related that they paddled down the great rivers more than 700 miles at a length, in frail canoes, to reach their fellow-men in the western out- skirts of population, and for whose souls none others, at that time, cared. In their circuits they walked or rode on horseback as many as IGOO miles within five weeks, to preach the Gospel of Christ often to no more than half-a-dozen persons for an audience — for many of the settlers wore then only to be reached in families. And when, under other circumstances, they could assemble the people together in larger numbers within and under the shelter of deep forests, they heard bears and wolves moaning and howling around them as they preached and prayed. While sustaining such unwearied labours and encountering such perils, they did not receive suffi- cient earthly remuneration to be able to provide them- selves with necessary food and clothing; neither, oh that time, was there any provision made for their wivos or children, liishop Asbury records in his journal for the year 18()(», when attending a nostern conference, " The bretliren were in want, and could not suit them- selves ; so I i)arted with my watcli, my coat, and my slnrt." Yet, with all this, they were content and happy if only L 146 PROGRESS OF AIETHODISM IN AMERICA. I ' li ,1 ■ the work of God prospered in their hands. And Jehovah did not leave them without bright and cheering proofs of His power to save. The records of this period de- scribe some most signal instances of numerous conver- sions. Where considerable numbers could assemble, not only scores but hundreds at one service were pricked to the heart, and cried out, *' Men and brethren, wlat must we do?" In the year 1790, the first camp- meetings seem to have been held in the States of Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee. At some of those large out- of-door assemblies there were wonderful displays of divine grace. The people w]io attended them had, gene- rally, been moved to religious desires by the several service,s held among them in their own localities. Thus when called to assemble with others alike concerned for salvation, they went in r'.ght earnest, and fully resolved to get religious good if it were to be had by earnest- nesa. They came forth with their horses, waggons, food, and bedding, by thousands ; encamped, with their seve- ral tents, in the wide wilderness; and then, at pro- tracted services, under the over- hanging foliage of the forest-trees hung with lanterns at night, they continued together for exhortation, the breaking of broad, and for prayer. At one of these meetings as many as 2U,000 pe ons were assembled ; so that, for hearing the word of God preaclxed, they had to bo gathered into separate congregations, and addressed by different speakers, some of whom were Presbyterians, and some Baptists — for earnest men deli^i^ht to mingle wheio there is earnest work going on, though tlio projectors of such work may not be, uominully, of their own party. Sumo of tho scenes of spiritual awako:\ing, both of I AMERICA. PROGRESS OF METUODISM IN AMERICA. 147 ands. And Jehovah and cheering proofs Is of this period de- f numerous conver- ers could assemble, t one service were <• ]Men and brethren, L799, the ftrst camp- 1 the States of Ohio, le of those large out- mderful displays of ided them had, gene- sires by the several own localities. Thus 3 alike concerned for 3t, and fully resolved be had by earnest- lorses, waggons, food, ped, with their seve- and then, at pro- nging foliage of the light, they continued iking of bread, and leetings as many as that, for hearing the to bo gathered into ressed by different ibyterians, and some it to mingle where lough the projectors nully, of their own i uwakeaing, both of j these and other meetings, were attended by signs and .circumstances such as marked the preaching of Mr. Wesley and his coadjutors in England, and such as were beheld at Jerusalem on the day of Pentecost. Hearers of the word fell down to the ground, in the agony of spiritual conviction, and cried aloud for sal- vation. At a large camp-meeting at Caneridge, it was estimated that not less than 3000 persons were under deep religious concern together, and made the sur- rounding woods resound with their sobs and cries before the Lord. Bishop M'Kendree seems to have taken a very earnest and successful part in these western camp- meetings ; and some which he attended are especially memorable in connection with his name. There were also gracious revivals in other parts of the country, where great numbers at a time were added to the Lord. The city of Baltimore seems to have been, on severil occasions, the favoured scene of nume- rous conversions, and of large additions to the church of God. In the year 1818, a wondrous religious awaken- ing commenced at " Fell's Point," in the lower part of the city, and spread through the other parts : this gracious visitation was manifested in several influential families, appeared among the poorer portion of the population, and penetrated even to the prison- cells of felons and convicts. At that one period, nearly lOCO persons were brought into churr^. -fellowship witli the Metliod'sts in the city of Bait: njre. Thid work of God spread from thence through the State of Maryland. And in the States of Virginia, New York, and other States of New England, Methodism also ;^rew and prospered. In Canada, too, Methodi -.-i made rapid pre > x' s. I ,*iB*l**ite^„. h 148 PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. have already named its commence ?nent in that province imder Mr. Losee ; an I ^intorsg ilie o:)rli( ■ notices, I find one of a gracious revival ir. Upper Canada, in the year 1797, under Cf Tvin "V^'noLster, ** a man i\ .'J of faith and of the Holy Giiost." This work u: G xi jems to have extended from Upper io Lower Canada, and on to Quebec, sader Jofeeph Sawyer, Nathan Bangs, William Case, and other devoted 3rvants of Christ. In 1811, Inshop Af^hury cr)8t>ed the &c. Ijawrence River and visited Canada, with Vv'hi(?h ccmtry and its people he seems to have beer^ highly gra*:hed, In 1812, the de- claration of war between America and England pro- duced uneasiness between Canada and the United States ; and the Canadian Methodists began to entertain a desire for separation from the Methodists of the States. This desire strengthened naturally by a consideration of the political relationL-?hip between Canada and England ; and, at length, by commutual consent of all parties, Methodism in Canad;). was given up to the British Con- ference, for general superintendency and government ; but this was not brought about until 1828. Since that period, Canada has been divided into two sections, in its relation to Methodism, named Eastern and Western Canada ; ai.J these have their own annual conferences, which they hold in affiliated connection with the British Conference. Canada has also had its devoted and zealous labourers for Christ : men who carrieu the axe with them in their adventuroin journeys, that they might cut their way throrgh the forest wilderness, and fell trees by the water-side, place the trees across streams, and so pass over, and pursue their way. William Case, leforo named, and who died -^is - r (1856), is r nbercd among the Indian tr'%!<: of MCA. that province aotices, I find a, in the year ;i of laith and ;,jems to have la, and on to 5angs, William nht. In I8II1 I [ice Biver and | i its people he ^ :n 1812, the de- ^ I England pro- | e United States ; jntertain a desire :he States. This sideration of the I and England; nt of all parties, the British Con- (ind government; 828. Since that ) two sections, in item and AVestern nnual conferences, )n with the British I its devoted and -ho canieu the axe jurneys, that they rest wilderness, and 5 the trees across pursue their way. who died ^^rs ;. '-r 10 Indian tr' • <• of PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. 149 Canada, as " the Father of the Indians," and was one hi the most honoured instruments employed by God for the commencement of His work in Canada. And now schools and houses for worship have multiplied, until this great North American province, in both its Methodist sections, is " a field which the Lord hath blessed." It should not, however, be forgotten, that alike among the white population and the native In- dians, Methodism in Canada is originally an offshoot from the Methodism of the United States. Peter Jones and John Sundav, and other Indian converts in Canada, so well known to us in England, and to hxmdreds of our red brethren, were the fruit of Methodist agency from the States. "With this wide extension of the work of God by its instrumentality, the Methodist Episcopal Church of the United States has steadily advanced in the multiplica- tion of its appliances for securing the stability of its spiritual conquests, while it does not slacken in zeal and effort for further gains. It has made more adequate provisions for its ministers and their families. It has instituted Tract. Societies and Sunday School Unions. It has organised domestic missions for widely-scattered settlers of different nations, for the poor degraded slaves, and for the remnants of the various tribes of Indians ; and it has sent forth its intrepid missionaries over the seas to South America, Western Africa, the European continent, and India. Some of these have nobly sacrificed tlieir livr^ for the name of Jesus : and have, themselves, names which are not only honourable in the martyr-records of the Church on earth, but bright in the heraldry of heaven. The dying saying of one of ih 'XQ, Molviile B. Cox, who was cut off by the destruc- :|#mj...' I 150 PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. tive climate of Liberia, in the year 1832, must long be remembered as one of the most heroic sayings of heroic men. Being asked by his friend what should be written upon his tombstone should he die in Africa, he answered, " Write this — * Let thousands fall before Africa be given up ! ' " Other missionaries, both male and female, have followed this brave warrior for Christ, and willingly surrendered their lives, while in the years of compara- tive youth : thus pressing, like good soldiers of their Lord, into the citadel, though they knew beforehand that they were likely to become mere stepping-stones for those who were to follow after them, and secure the full victory. The Methodists of the States have also established numerous Schools, Academies, Colleges, and Univer- sities, and have spread them widely over the length and breadth of the land ; and while literature has been cultivated with the most encouraging success in these institutions, publications have been issued from the Methodist press by hundreds of thousands. As the work of God has enlarged, ministers, local preachers, class-leaders, and other agents of the Church have been multiplied ; and the number of the bishops, for general superintendency and oversight, has likewise been pro- portionally augmented. It was not to be supposed that such a great and ex- tended work of God as I have briefly sketched could, through good part of a century, escape the plague of internal commotion and disturbance, any more than external assault and conflict. As early as 1793, we find contention and revolt created by disappointed and am- bitious men ; and, at successive periods, secessions of the disaffected form a part of the chronicle of Methodist ERICA. PROaRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. 151 I, must long be lyings of heroic Lould be written ca, he answered, Africa be given md female, have b, and willingly ars of compara- soldiers of their :new beforehand stepping-stones 1, and secure the also established es, and Univer- over the length le literature has aging success in been issued from ousands. As the local preachers, Dhurch have been shops, for general kewise been pro- 1 a great and ex- iy sketched could, icape the plague ;e, any more than y as 1793, we find ippointed and ara- ods, secessions of micle of Methodist afiairs. At one time, the appointment of ministers by "the bishops was oppoo 1, and made the subject of strife and division ; more than once, the office of " presiding elder" in the Church has been assailed ; and some even of the poor African members in the churches of the States have been moved to agitation and separation, on one " vexed question" or another. In reading the history of these disturbances and divisions, it is really curious to notice the similarity of their character and names to those of the disturbances and divisions of Methodism in England. There have been " Primitive Methodists," " Reformers," and " Methodist Associations ;" and all these before their namesakes arose in our country. I need only add, that notwithstanding internal and ex- ternal storms, the Methodist Episcopal Church of Ame- rica has held on its way, progressing in spite of dif- ficulties and disturbances, until it is now foremost of all the churches of the land, both in numbers and in- fluence. One great distuilmg element has, from ?ar]v days, as you know, existed in the Christian Church lift? t , and has, at length, divided the Methodist Church of the United States into two parts : that is, the monster evil of slavery. This abhorrent system, by its authorised status under civil governments, has continually ham- pered and embarrassed the Church. Mr. Wesley, Dr. Coke, Bishop Asbury, nnd the early preachers, in their conferences, expressed the strongest opposition to this "complicated villany;" and wrote, spo' ' und legis- lated for its entire eradication from tuo Methodist Church, — prohibiting, most positively and perempto-. rily, both ministers and members from any participa- tion ic it. But the fact of the evil being sanctioned I M^'-^ij^ma V'^ 0^\ ^t»1 3 ,! 152 PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. by several of the States, separately, and not being sub- ject to general legislation by Congress, interfered with the action of the Methodist Churches. Except they took the position of direct rebellion against civil go- vernment, any laws which the Methodists might make against slavery were impracticable. On this account, the V.r-V- were modified by the appendage — that they should be carried into execution by the annual con- ferences, so far as allowed by the laws of the several States. And with evident reference to past require- ments on this matter, relating to both ministers and people being free from criminal association with slavery, the conference of 1824 passed the following resolutions, which are in the " Book of Discipline," and remain in force to the present time : — " Quest. What shall be done for the extirpation of the evil of slavery ? "Arts. 1. We declare that we a. ns much as ever convinced of the great evil of slavery: therefore no slav.'holder shall be eligibl. to any oflicial station in our Church hereafter, where the laws of theStat^ ■ i which he lives will admit of emancipation, and permit the liberated slave to .njoy freedom. " 2. When any travelling preacher becomes an owner of a sl.'ve or slaves, by any means, he shall forfeit his ministerial character in our l huich, uuli-s he execute, if it be practicable, a legal emancipation of such slaves, con- formable to the law of (he State in which he lives. '' 3. All our preachers shall prudently enforce upon all our members the necessity of teaching their slaves to read the word of God ; and to oUow them time to attend upon the worship of God on our regular days of divine service. " 4. Our coloured preachers and olflcial members shall have all the privi- leges which are usual to others in the district and quarterly conferences, where the usages of the country di not forbid it. And the presiding elder may hold for them a sei)arate district conference, where the number of coloured' lucal preachers will justify it. " 5. 'Ihe bishops may employ coloured preachers to travel and preach, whc'i their services are judged necessary, provided that no one shall be so employed without Laving been recommended by a quarterly conference." i°»«#^*t--w*aSti.i; PROailESS OF METUODISM IN AMERICA, 153 ' and remain in These rules were not satisfactory to some of the preachers and people, and exciting controversies arose concerning them ; and, at length, the Baltimore con- ference suspended a minister, of the name of Francis A. Harding, for the holding of slaves, — which slaves, the said minister pleaded, the laws of the State in which he resided would not allow him to emancipate. He appealed from the decision of the conference of Baltimore to the General Conference held in 1844. But this conference confirmed the decision given at Balti- more ; and, in the proceedings, brought out the fact, that one of the bishops (Bishop Andrew) was also a slaveholder. This the bishop acknowledged, stating that the slaves had come to him by his marriage, that year, with a widow lady ; and that, by the laws of the State in which he lived, he could not liberate them. Next, the question of this bishop's continuance in his office was raised ; and, on the ground that he would no longer be acceptable to the connexion at large, judg- ment was likewise given against him. This was no sooner done, than thirteen of the conferences in the Southern States, with the Churches belonging to them, withdrew from the general connexion, and formed themselves into a separate connexion, under the name of the "Methodist Episcopal Church, South;" and, since then, these separatists have never been re- united to their brethren of the North. It is to the General Conference of the North('.;;n body that we have been sent. This Church is not ni( re]y passively, but actively and determinedly opposed to slavery. The separatists of the South condemn slavery, and pro- fess to seek its extirpation ; but the Church of the North imperatively prohibits all participation in "^ ^ t im.mumm \ iAM I . 154 PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. slavery, either by ministers or other officers of the Church. In justice to the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, however, it ought to be stated, that no church whatever is doing so much for the religious instruction of the Africans in the United States as it is doing. It has numerous schools, nearly 200,000 full-church coloured members — most of whom are slaves — and hundreds of thousands more of the same dark race who regularly hear from its preachers the word of life. From the beginning, Methodism in England and America has maintained friendly relationship, and has exchanged, as occasion allowed, fraternal salutations and greetings, both by written addresses and by minis- terial deputations. In the early records of the Churches we find declarations that Methodism throughout the world is one. In 1824, the Rev. Richard Reece, accompanied by the Rev. John Hannah, attended the General Conference which assembled in Baltimore, lu 1836, the Rev. William Lord was deputed by the British Conference to attend the General Conference of Methodism in the United States. In 1840, the Rev. Robert Newton, D.D., was at the General Conference held in the same city. In 1848, the Rev. Dr. Dixon attended the General Conference of the Methodist Epis- copal Church in Pittsburg. And now, in 1856, Dr. Hannah and I are on our way to the General Con- ference about to assemble at Indianapolis. Before the American Methodist Church was divided, the British Conference, both bv its addresses and its representatives, had to remonstrate with the Conferences here on the ground of slavery. But, since the division, there cannot be just suspicion of any leaning towards slavery on the part of the Methodist Episcopal Church, :. "J..: . —- . ,,^,.«#*i PROGRESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. 155 North ; and with It only the British Conference holds communication, and recognises a relationship. These hasty notices of the leading events and princi- pal circumstances in the history of Methodism on this continent, will give you a general idea of the manner and measure of its progression up to the present time. Full particulars of such a history belong to the volumi- nous chronicler, and not to the writer of a letter. Some further characteristics of the American Methodist Church at its different periods you will, however, be able to gather from the outline portraitures of some of its most prominent and successful labourers, with which I shall endeavour to supply you in my next letter. LETTER X. METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. Franoia Asl)iiry — Dr. Coke — Asbury's Peculiar Adajitations for America — His Capacity for Labour — His Tirelessness iu Travelling — His Abiiega- tion of Self — His Primitive Manners — His Economy and Charity — Anecdote of the Sceptical Doctor — Last Days of Asbury — His last Sermon and Triumi)haiil Death — His Convert, Punch, the Negro — Punch becomes a Preacher — Conversion of the Persecuting Overseer — Punch's Old Age — His Prayer answered — His Happy Death. Francis Asiuiry is uniformly spoken of, here, as the chief agent in the establishment of the Methodist Epis- copal Church : and, undoubtedly, this honour is justly due to him. For, while Mr. Wesley must ever be re- garded as the father and foimder of Methodism, both in Europe and America, while they were his people who first held Methodist meetings in this country, his preachers who were first sent forth to attend to the infant societies which had been formed, and it was by his autliority that the scattered societies were orgnnised into a united and a distinct Church, yet it was Francis Asbury, more than any other man, who stamped upon the American Church the Methodist image and super- ecription. J)r. CoK?; is also very affectionately and gratcAdly spoken of here. How could it be oth "'wise r* lie was Mr. AVesley's most devoted assistant uud friend. IIo METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 157 ERICA. )tation9 for America— ivelliiig— His Abnepja- juoiny anil Charity — of Asbury— His last ich, tlic Negro— Punch lug Overseer— Punch's h. of, here, as the 3 Methodist Epis- honour is justly- must ever bo re- thodism, both in e his people who his country, his to attend to the ed, and it was by ics were orgiinised ^'ct it was Francis iiio stamped upon image and super- dy and gratefully r-'wiser' lie waa t uud friend. Ho n >. was the father of Methodist missions; and gave his life, learning, and fortune, to the furtherance of that object. He was the first appointed bishop of the Methodist Church in America ; and to serve it he crossed the wide Atlantic not less than eighteen times, at his own expense. Dr. Coke was, moreover, a true friend of the degraded negro race ; and with a zeal not less ardent than that of Wilberforce, Clarkson, or Fowell Buxton, he sought their social and spiritual emancipa- tion. Here, as in England, he was the very drudge of charity ; and though a gentleman by birth and a scholar by education, he encountered the roughest mis- sionary labour in the unshorn wilderness of this Western world. Standing under the broad, spreading maple - tree, he made the deep forest echo with the sound of his overstrained voice, as he preached to assembled emi- grants and outcast slaves the word of life. But with all his personal excellence, zeal, and de- votedness, Dr. Coke could not so fully engraft himself upon the American stock, and be so thoroughly united to it, as Francis Asbury. He had strong predilections for the Church of England and its services : those pre- r)osscssions the Americans did not share, and so they became vmwilling to confide their entire interests to him. Above all tlie rcasc ns, however, why he failed to secure the full sympathy of the Amcrif^ans, the strongest was his impulsive zeal for the immediate liberation of the slaves. This brought him often into j)erilou8 collision with the slave-owners arid tho govern nvnit ; and, by consequenc », led the people to distrust his pru- dence. Beside?, Dr. Coke did not remain long at a time in Americuj ; but passed and repassed to F-ngland, leaving liia colleague in tlio general suporintcndency of miilfiiMI»A' 1 I ( i' 158 METIIODIgT LABOURBllg IN AMERICA. the Methodist Church, in single charge of the several circuits and the disti'iots. Bishop Asbury, ou tho other hand, gave himself wholly to Methodism in Amoricu. As soon as he ar- rived on this contiuwnt, ho adopted it as his field of spiritual labour for life. Atid when the Church here had been thoughtfully imd skilfully organised, and him- self confirmed in Ijis olliuu, lio carried out the system of evangelical agency uu'l jmsiorul oversight with amazing energy and success, As W. have seen, the form of church government Iwiv established was devised by Mr. Wesley ; but how ntucli, under God, did it depend upon the agent Mr. We«loy might select to carry it into practical operation 1 Tbat agent was Francis Asbury ; and there can be jio doubt that he was also most especially cIiohuu of (iod for (his great work. Like most men bpticially dust ined for important service under Divine rrovideucu, lie seeniH, from the beginning of his itinerant enroer, to Inivo had a strong presenti- ment of his dentiny witb regard to America. In his journal he has recordetl I bat, before any proposal was made by Mr. Wesley to the (yonference at Bristol, in 1771, for some of tbe piTueliors to go and assist their brethren labouring in Aineiini, lio had felt strong and clear intimations wiihiii bin mind that he ouglit to go there ; and tliut , when he niado known his views and feelings, tiie preaeliori* and bin friends agreed in the con- clusion that be ougbt to go. From the conviction that America was tbe H})b his in- teresting " Journal," where he has chronicled in the most artless manner his daily exercises of heart and life, he tells us how he had to travel on the roughest roads ; to wade through dismal swamps ; to cross difficult mountain ridges ; to journey alone through the solitary wilderness, where the deep silence was broken only by the howls of hungry wolves, and the yells of murderous Indians ; to swim over broad rivers, and sleep on the cold ground in his wet clothes, with no pillow but his saddle-bags, — or, if he found shelter for the night in a settler's hut or log-(!abin, it was not unfrocjuently in circumstances of the greatest inconvenience and dis- comfort. When detained from itinerant service, he mourned over his silence, recording in his journal, " It is now eiglit weeks since f have preached — awfully dumb Sabbaths !" When so far recovered in strengl'ias to be able to proceed over the Cumberlaiul Mountains, he relates, " On my way I felt as if I was out of prison. Hail! ye solitary pines! the jessamine, the red-bud, J RICA. METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 161 labour. And J by the unani- Laced over tbem eek official ease Irudgery of the ure on the most ng more abun- s estimated, not ended period of ist once a day J jouriif^^'s wei3 stc:- , b^* vmdn' tiie most ces. ^^ his in- hronicled in the ses of heart and on the roughest ; to cross difficult •ough the solitary 5 broken only by ells of murderous and sleep on the [th no pillow but "Iter for the night not unfreciuently ivenience and dis- iierant service, ho [1 his journul, " It preached— awfully ercd in strengt'ias )erland Mountains, was out of prison, nine, the red-bud, •I and the dog-wood ! How charming in full bloom ! the former a most fragrant smell." And afterwards he records, — " I have travelled about 600 miles with an inflammatory fever, and fixed pain in my breast." For arduous and enduring labours, it maj- be affirmed, that Francis Asbury was not excelled by any of the most devoted and toiling messengers jf Christ. There is but little of written memorial respecting this most excellent man. And there is only one authentic portrait of him that I have seen, except the small one in the Methodkt 3Ia(jazine for the year 1809. He seems to liave shrunk with instinctive dread from the honour which cometh from man. It was only by stratagem that a likeness of him could be obtained, — that of a promise of clothing for his poor preachers, if he would sit to a portrait- taker. Before he died, he solemnly enjoined upon his friends that no "Life" should be written of him, and that dying injunction to the present has been o'lserved. His bodily remains rest, now, in the " Mount of Olives " Methodist Ceme- tery, at l^altimore ; but no monumental stone records his deeds. Without picture-portraits, written memoirs, or marble monuments, his memory is blessed in the Church he established in tho land ; and to any one standing within the living walls of that Church, charac- terised by its vast extent, and its goodly framework of spiritual beauty and order, if iTUjuiry were made for Asbury's monument, the answer might be in the words of that strikingly appropriate insoi'iption for Sir Christopher Wren, within St. Paul's Cathedral : — " Si iiioiiiuticHfion qiiariii, circinnspioc :'^ — " If thou askest for his monu- ment, look around thee !" The friends here, who remember him, describe him as M ■ff 162 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA, having been, in person, a spare, upright, and dignified man. He is said to have had eyes that pierced those he looked upon, as if he were probing human character to its core ; while, at times, when ae was administering reproof, the glance from under his lia-ge overhanging brows was terrible. To judge from the lines and fixed- ness of the mouth, and the general cast of his features, as shown in the one portrait of him, firmness and decision, seriousness and earnestness, must have been habitual with him. In his advanced years, they relate, that his long, silvery locks flowed freely on his shoul- ders, so as to give him a truly venerable and fatherly appearance. He is also described as having been remarkably nrat and clean in his clothing, and as having worn a plain, quakerly kind of dress, and a low-crowned, broad-brimmed hat. Bishop Asbury does not seem to have been marked by imaginative or creative powers of mind. He was, rather, a man of plain, solid understanding, with a po- tential will, and undiscouragcable endurance and perse- verance. Ho had mainly educated himself wliile on his itinerant rounds ; and he obtained, not only a good degree of ordinary learning, but also a critical acquaint- ance with the original language of the New Testament. He was a man of exact order and method. His business movements are said to have been almost as regular as clock-work. Like lAx. Wesley, he ate, slept, laboured, conversed, and prayed by rule. He was a rigid enemy to ease or self-indulgence, and would not allow it either in himself or his brethren. " The love of money" had no place in his afl'ections : ho would never take for l)imself more than (iO dollars (£20) a year for his support, beyond his travelling expenses; uud ho dis- [ERICA. it, and dignified lat pierced tbose human character ras administering rge overhanging e lines and fixed- st of his features, m, firmness and must have been ears, they relate, ;elv on his shoul- able and fatherly as having been clothing, and as of dress, and a lave been marked f mind. He was, mding, with a po- lurance and perse- himsolf while on id, not only a good a critical acquaint- le New Testament. ;hod. His business nost as regular as ite, slept, laboured, was a rigid enemy not allow it either )ve of money" had lid never take for !0) a year for his euscs; and ho dis- MEinODIST LABOUREUS IN AMERICA. 163 > I tributed the greater part of that sura to the more needy. His sermons, in his later years, are described as being without regularity of plan or arrangement ; but still to have been very weighty and impressive. The simple truth, delivered in a solemn, authoritative maimer, accompanied by the power of the Spirit, shook the hearts of the preachers as well as of the people. He " ruled well," and therefore was counted worthy of double honour. He was forbearing and conciliatory where he observed any irregularity which did not involve a principle ; but where transgression was really censurable, he was immovable in firmness and resolu- tion. So unerring was his insight of human cha- racter, that he knew at a glance the materials on which he had to work ; and he had strength and courage, as well as wisdom, to use them for the best advantage of the Church of Christ. Some, who only saw him in his public administrations, thought him stern and unap- proachable ; but to those who knew him well he was loving and easily accessible. When he entered the poor man's cabin for rest or for shelter, little children ran to him as soon as he was seated, climbed up his knees, and received his fatherly benediction. Bishop Asbury never married ; for, as he used to say, he was too constantly occupied with the work of God to take upon hiiA the cares of a private family. He seems, however, to have had a manly sense of the duty of help and succour which man owes to woman. Thus he always contributed, from his yearly pittance, to the support of some needy female or otlior ; and, when ho died, he left 2000 dollars, which frieudsliip had be- queathed to him, for the relief of a preacher's widow, and of the most needy of his brethren. 164 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. "With all this, he was pre-eminently a man of prayer. Dependence upon God seems to have been his constant feeling. lie began and finished every service with prayer. He prayed on the road, in the silent woods, and in the houses where he lodged, whether they were private or public. He lived and breathed in the ele- ment of prayer. AVhen a .sceptical doctor of medicine refused to receive from him any pecuniary remuneration for attending upon him during a dangerous sickness, he said, " But I never suffer myself to be in debt, so let us kneel down together ani discharge the obligation with thanks and supplications before the Lord ;" and, kneeling down, he prayed most earnestly for the unbe- lieving physician who had dealt so generously v/ith him. His gift in public prayer is spoken of as having been remarkable. This talent he had well improved by exercise, as Freeborn Garrettson, his companion in labour, declared iu the funeral sermon which he preached for the bishop, when he said, " He prayed the best, and he prayed the most, of any man I ever knew. His long-continued rides prevented his preaching as often as some others ; but ho could find a throne of grace, if not a congregation, upon the road." This truly apostolic man lived to a good old age. AVhcn ho had passed his threescore years and ten, and when his venerable father, Wesley, with Dr. Coke, and many others of his early friends and acquaintances, had departed to their eternal rest, he still pursued his itinerant labours. Incessant travelling, amidst all the changes of weather, and the constant burden of anxiety wliich he bore for the Church he loved, preyed seriously upon his constitution in later years. But when urged to desist from continuous labour, on the ground that I »i;il METHODIST LAEOURERS IN AMERICA. 166 RICA. man of prayer, en his constant •y service with e silent woods, ither they were hed in the ele- tor of medicine fy remuneration L'ous sickness, he in debt, so let the obligation ^ ;he Lord ;" and, > ;ly for the unbe- ■ generously with | cen of as having ^ i well improved v; lis companion in 'hich he preached yed the best, and ever knew. His j reaching as often brone of grace, if a good old age. \ ears and ten, and | ith Dr. Coke, and cquaintances, had still pursued his 112, amidst all the burden of anxiety 1, preyed seriously But when urged L the ground that God. had graciously raised up many strong men to carry on aD'l atch over the v,ork he had begun, he replied, " No m:i' can do my work." "When too weak to preach on his journeys as often as he had been wont to do, he had printed copies of the Word of God stored in his waggon, to distribute as he went along the road, saying, " Now I know that I am sowing good seed." From the last entries he muclo i i 'lis journal, it is plain that all hi& desires for itinerant labour were not then fulfilled, but that his heart was enlarged towards the "Far West." Thej' are .ii these words : — ** Mj'- soul is blessc' with continued consolation and peace in all my great weakness of body, and crowds of company. I am a debtor to the whole continent, but more especially to the north-east and south-west ; it is there I usually gain health, and lose it in the south and centre. I have visited the south tliirty limes in thirty- one years. I wish to visit ^Lississippi ; but am resigned . , . . My eyes fii). I will resign the stations to Bishop M'Kendree. I will take away my feet. . . It is my fifty-fifth year of ministry, and forty-fifth of labour in America. . I die daily, but my consolations are great. i live in God from moment to moment." Notwithstanding tiiis resolution to "take awnv his feet," and give place unto another, he still continued his journeys, until after riding forty-thr(H) miles one day over a rough and jolting road, he said, " This will not do — I must halt, or order my grave." Yet he per- severed, fearing to lok,:; the last remnant of his life from useful service, until he reached Virginia, where he preached his last sermon only a few days before his death. When his .lends beheld him in his feeble- METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. ness, they besought ' > ni not to preach ; but he replied that "God had gi* i' him work to do there, and ho must once more deliver his testimony in that place." And like as the " beloved disciple" St. John, according to the relation of Jerome, was carried in the arms of the early Christians to their place of meeting and placed before the people, when old age disabled him from walking, so the devoted Methodists of Richmond carried the dying Asbury in their arms to the liouse of God ; and when they had placed hiiu on a table inside the pulpit, he preached, in tremulous tones, to a weeping congregation, from the signal words, " For He will finish the work, and cut it short in righteousness : because a short work will He make in the earth." He w'as then carried back from the pulpit; and on the next Sabbath — after travelling on alternate daj^s till he reached the house of his friend, Mr. George Arnold — when bowing himself upon his bed to worship, and, like Jacob, leaning upon his staff, he looked up joyfully to his companion, and raising both hands to heaven in holy triumph, he passed into the joj'- of his Lord. Bishop Asbury was in his seventy- first year ; and his death occurred on the 21st day of March, 1816. He was, at first, interred at Spottsylvania, in Virginia, the place where he died. Afterwards, by the direction of the Conference, his remains were brought to Ealti- more, and deposited within a vault under the recess for the pulpit, in Eautaw Street Church, when a funeral address was delivered over them, to the ministers assem- bled, by Bishop M'Kendree. In the church was placed a written memorial of his name, labours, and death. Since then his bones have been removed to the Mount AMERICA, METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 167 ch ; but he replied do there, and ho ly in that place." St. John, according ied in the arms of ! of meeting and acre disabled him (dists of Richmond ms to the house of u on a table inside tones, to a weeping ■ds, " For He will ; in righteousness : ike in the earth." le piilpit; and on on alternate days friend, Mr. George lis bed to worship, aff, he looked up incr both hands to into the joy of his irst year ; and his March, 1810. He mia, in Virginia, s, by the direction brought to Balti- under the recess 3h, when a funeral lie ministers assem- ihurch was placed 30urs, and death, kd to the Mount 'es are related of this good ■f his survivors, and these vidly illustrative of his ef Olives Cemetery, as T have already stated ; and there, with the bodies of other bishops of his beloved Church, his mortal relics seem to have found a last resting-place, wherein to await their great change into a " spiritual body." Many interestin n bishop from the i reminiscences of excellent charactci of them very aff'ectingly show his benevolent atltjution to the poor degraded sons and daughters of Africa, and are truly honourable to him. It is clear that he was never neglectful of them, wherever he went; and that he not only praj^ed and conversed with the master in his house and in his par- lour, but also with the slave in the kitchen, the field, and the log-hut. On one occasion he observes, in his journal, " I was exceedingly happy last evening with the poor slaves in brother Wells' kitchen, while our white brother (a young minister of the circuit) held a sacramental love-feast up-stairs. I must be mindful of the poor : this is the will of God concerning me." But his attention to these poor outcasts, and the great harvest of good that may spring from way-side sowing of the word of life among them, appeared very fully in his conduct towards a notoriously wicked negro, whom he one day found by the road-side, as he was riding to Charleston, in South Carolina ; and who was not only brought to seriousness and reformation of life, but became successful in winning many of his own dark race to the love of the Saviour. The relation is as follows : — Bishop Asbury came up to this nogro, who was sitting on a bank, fishing in a creek, and whistling to iMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 1 •^ 1^ 12.2 2.0 ^ 1^ ^ U III 1.6 Fhotograpnic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STMIT WIBSTIR.N.Y. 14SI0 (716) •72-4503 '/. a ^ Q \ 168 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. himself a merry jig tune. The bishop pulled up his horse, and turned it aside to drink. While the horse was drinking, the bishop began to enter into conversa- tion with the dark fisherman, asking what was his name. " Punch," was the reply. " Do you ever pray ?" inquired Asbury. " No, massa," answered the negro, with a vague look that showed he hardly knew the meaning of the question. The bishop at once dis- mounted, sat down on the bank beside the slave, and spoke to him earnestly on the evil of sin and its danger, and on the way of salvation by Christ Jesus, until the tears flowed swiftly down the black man's face, and he began to cry to God to have mercy on him. Asbury now sang, by his side, several verses of the hymn, commencing — " Plunged in a gulf of dark despair, We wretched sinners lay." This thoroughly subdued Punch, insomuch that his tears flowed faster, and his heart melted into sorrow. The bishop then explained to him the way of faith in Christ ; and, after giving him suitable directions, prayed with him, and bade him an nflectionate farewell. The evangelist and the negro did not meet again until twenty-five years afterwards, when Punch obtained leave to quit the rice-field in order to make a visit to Charles- ton, whore the bishop then was, and whither the negro walked sixty or seventy miles to see him. But, to pursue the story in order : — Wlien Bishop Asbury left Punch at the side of the creek, the negro quickly drew up his fishing-line, and went to his hut ; for the Holy ►Spirit was working effectually in the depths of his soul. " I began tiuk," he said afterwards, ** 'fore I get homo METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 169 Punch be gone to hell." Following the directions of his spiritual instructor, he now prayerfully and un- ceasingly sought forgiveness through the blood of Christ; and, after a few days, he joyfully obtained redemption through that blood, even the pardon of his sins. Feeling the blessedness of his new state, he could not refrain from speaking of it to others. It seemed a strange tale for Punch, who had been so notoriously wicked, to tell to his fellow-slaves. But they saw that he was a changed and a happy man ; and by degrees they gathered round him, and heard with seriousness what he had to say. One after another began to pray, and then to rejoice, until, at length, large congrega- tions collected round the door of Punch's cabin for reli- gious conversation and prayer ; and soon, without intending it. Punch became a preacher of the Gospel. Standing at the door of his hut, he, night after night, proclaimed the good news of salvation to crowds of his brother negroes. This awakened the ire of the overseer of the estate, and ho set himself to put down Punch's preaching and the effects of it among the slaves. And now poor Punch could only speak and pray with a few that might hide themselves in his narrow cabin. One night, when thus engaged, to his alarm he hoard the persecuting overseer call him, and he went forth fully exiiecting to be flogged ; but, behold ! when ho opened the door, there lay the overseer, writhing on the ground, under conviction for sin, and crying out, " Punch, will you pray for mo P" and, as may readily be supposed, Punch most gladly and earnestly complied. " I cry, I pray, I shout 1 " he used afterwards to relate ; ** I beg de Lord I 170 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. to hear. De overseer rise, trow him arms round me ; and den he tank God, and tank Punch ! " This over- seer afterwards joined the Methodist Church, became an exhorter, and afterwards a preacher. For some years, the devoted negro's course for reli- gious usefuhiess was freely open ; and, having been long known to them, he continued to win his companions in bondage to newness of life. His owner dying, he passed into the possession of another, and was removed to an entirely new field for labour. There, however, as before, by zealous, persevering goodness, he won the confidence of those who were over him, and the ears and hearts of his fellow-slaves, who, like the others, resorted to him for religious instruction and worship. Several years after, when Punch had grown old, a Methodist minister was sent to that part of the country, and was requested to visit the plantation. The minister sought first the cabin of this veteran Methodist negro, of whom he had previously heard. He asked a negro herdsman if any preacher lived on the ground, " yes, massa, de old bushup lib here," answered the man, pointing to Pum jottage, " he be good preacher. Do word burn Wi. . jart ! " The minister knocked at tlio cabin-door, and immediately heard tottering foot- steps, and a sound of a cane on the floor. The door opened, and there within stood a trembling grey-headed old black nuvn, leaning upon a staff. When informed of the office of his visitor, Punch was silent with the overflow of grateful feeling ; and, looking up to heaven with his dark eyes beaming with rapture, ho at last burst into tears, and exclaimed, " Lord, now lettest thou thy servant depart in peace, for mine eyes have seen thy salvation ! " The minister hi8 visitor, Punch ateful feeling; and, eyes beaming with irs, and exchiimed, nt depart in peace, B3n ! " The minister METHODIST LABOUREES IN AMEIIICA. in was overpowered by what he saw, and stood like on© confused, not knowing what to reply. Punch invited him in, and explained to him the meaning of the exclamation, by saying, "I have many children in this place. My end is nigh, and I have looked round me in vain for some one to take my place and proaoli to them. I prayed to God to send some one, and I felt as though I could not die until He did. He has hoard my prayer, and sent you. So I am now ready to depart." Very soon afterwards his departure arrived. Ho seemed almost to know when it would come ; for, on the morning of the Sabbath on which he died, he said, joyously, " I shall die this day ! " Many weeping negroes crowded round his low, scanty bed, and heard his dying words. Again and again he repeated tho grateful words of Simeon — '* Lord, now lettest thou thy servant depart in peace !" And as his redeemed and enfranchised spirit escaped from the dark, ca])tivo tabernacle in which it had lodged, his quivering lips were repeating, " Let thy servant depart in peace — • Let— let— 1—." n i I LETTER XI. METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. Bishop M'Kcndrec— Clearness of his Conversion — Doubts his Call to the Ministry — His Prejudices against Bishop Asbm-y dispelled, and his entire devotedness to Methodism— His Labours in the West, and his personal Holiness and Success — Elected Bishop — Companionship with Asbury — Pleasing Camp-meeting Scene — M'Kendree's Farewell to his Brethren — His last Days and happy De])arture — Bishop George — Habits of Prayer — Powers as a Preacher — Kindliness of Spirit — Anecdote of the Young Preacher and the Bishop — Freeborn Garrettson — His happy Face and happy Character — Remarkable Conversion — Sets Free his Negroes — His Ministry — Suffering for Cbrist — Pleasant old Age — Rapturous Death — Jesse Lee — Bisliop Roberts — Bishop Hedding — Bishop Emory — John Easter — Dr. Stephen Oliu, &c. The name held in most regard and reverence, next to that of Asbury, among American Methodists, is that of his colleague and successor, Bishop M'Kendree. His memory is more immediately identified with the West, of which he was one of the chief Gospel pioneers. No formal memoir of him has yet been written, though love for him seems to exist in every Methodist heart. He was, pre-eminently, a devoted, laborious, eloquent, and suc- cessful minister of Christ. In person, he is described as having been above the average height; and though Lis bearing is said to have been impressive and dignified. METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 173 AMERICA. I— Doubts his Call to the u-y dispelled, and his entire the West, and his personal [lanionsliip with Asbury — Farewell to his Brethren — George— Habits of Prayer ;— Anecdote of the Young sou— His happy Face and lets Free his Negroes— His Age — Rapturous Death — ig — Bishop Emory — John reverence, next to [ethodists, is that of ) M'Kendree. His fied with the West, ospel pioneers. No written, though love odist heart. He was, eloquent, and suc- lon, he is described leight ; and though •essive and dignified. yet his intelligent face was remarkable for openness ; and his large falling rolls of dark hair gave him a cast of manly beauty. His voice is said to have been one of remarkable sweetness and power. He was born in the State of Virginia, in the year 1757, and was an adjutant in the American army during the war of Independence. When thirty years of age, he was brought to God under the preaching of a " Boanerges" who then travelled in that part of the country, of the name of John Easter, and from that time to the end of his life M'Kendree was a faithful soldier of the Cross. The work of conversion was thoroughly accomplished within him. Like the re- pentant Saul of Tarsus, he was three days and three nights fasting, praying, and restlessly agonizing for the forgiveness of his sins. At the expiration of this period be was enabled to trust in Christ for salvation, and received the clear and full witness of the Holy Spirit that his past offences were pardoned and that he was adopted into God's spiritual family. Soon after this he felt risings of evil within ; but, by persevering reliance upon the blood of Christ which cleanses from all sin, he obtained power to overcome and mortify to the death all carnal passions, and to devote himself, body and soul, wholly to the service of tlie Lord. When he first began to call sinners to repentance, he was strongly tempted to desist from so doing with the belief that he was not chosen for so high and holy a work ; and through the discouraging ren^arks of some who heai-d him, he prepared to return home for other employment. But God so signally owned his labours at this crisis, that neither he nor the people could longer doubt that he was truly called of God to labour in the 174 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. E, V . Gospel vineyard. A few years after he had regularly entered on the work of the itinerant ministry, liis mind was warped against Bishop Asbury, and ho tendered his resignation. This was owing to a discontented preacher of the name of O'Kelly, who misrepresented Asbury's faithfulness in the discharge of his duty as an abuse of his episcopal authority. M'Kendree, however, was taken to accompany Asbury where ho could see the good bishop's life and conduct for himself. He became satisfied of the incorrectness of O'Kelly's representa- tions ; felt that Asbury's conduct and character were noble and truly Christian ; acknowledged it ; and set himself to understand thoroughly the whole system of Methodism. And now, without wavering, ho gave him- self fully to the itinerant work ; and laboured, most zealously and successfully, first as a circuit-preacher, and then as a presiding elder, in the extensive district between the Alleghany Mountains, West, and Chesa- peake Bay, East, — a district the care of which necessi- tated frequent, prolonged, and very difficult journeying. Bishops Asbury and Whatcoat had already perceived the importance of the great Western valley beyond the Alleghany Mountains ; and finding M'Kendree to be exactly the sort of labourer they desired for it, they appointed him to accompany them into that district ; and it was they also who appointed him to bo presiding elder there. At three hours' notice, without books, or a change of clothes, which were far away from him, he set off on his long and arduous journey, with these two venerable, and now, through age and toil, infirm, servants of Christ. And here, in Kentucky, Tennessee, and Ohio, ho preached and laboured with amazing power and success. He used to gather largo multitudes from METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 175 many miles around, assemble them in the forest, and there, under the overhanging trees, preach the most powerful sermons, until hundreds of his hearers, stricken with a deep sense of their sinful condition, made the woods ring with their cries to God for mercy. And as for the preacher himself, there were seasons, it is said, when he was so filled and overpowered with the glory of God, that his face seemed to shine as an angel's ; and he would sink down upon the ground, silent and almost breathless with spiritual awe and heavenly rapture. All who knew him and heard him, unhesitatingly testify that he was a most eloquent and powerful preacher. His noble frame, they relate, used to quiver under the thrilling thoughts he uttered on the great truths of God ; and his preaching was in " the demonstration of the Spirit, and with power." As far as I can judge from what I have learned concerning him, he must have been a bright exemplar of personal holiness : he seems to have lived as if daily within the holy place, and to have come forth as with sweetly- perfumed garments from within the veil. Joined with such a rich experience of sanctifying and gladdening religion, there can be no wonder that the eloquence of this great preacher was so blessedly persi Ave ; and that he was not only instrumental in the spiritual awaken- ing of hundreds, but happily useful in building up believers, and stimulating them to higher acquirements in holiness. His knowledge of the Scriptures was also very comprehensive ; and this, again, would insure his usefulness, as it would render him able to meet the cases alike of the unconverted, the penitent, or the be- liever, and apply to them the very words they needed, fresh from the mouth of God Himself. « 176 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. It was clear to all who knew him that M'Kendree was designed, by the all- wise Governor of the Church, to be a leader in Israel ; and that by his years of labour and suffering, as well as by the heart of sympathy he manifested for his brethren in their itinerant trials, he had the full preparation and fitness for the office of a general superintendent. Accordingly, when at the Conference of 1808, in Baltimore, the place of the de- ceased Bishop Whatcoat had to be filled up, he was elected to the office of bishop. It would appear from Dr. Bangs' relation of the election, that M'Kendree, on coming to the Conference, was scarcely known to his brethren, from the fact of his having spent so many j-ears entirely in the West. He was not, therefore, at first thought of by the majority of preachers as Bishop Whatcoat's successor. Dr. Bangs goes on to describe how the preachers were led to fix upon him. M'Kendree was appointed to preach in Light Street Church, Balti- more, on the Sabbath before the election of a bishop was to be made in the Conference. " The house," says Dr. Bangs, " was crowded with people in every part, above and below, eaper to hear the stranger, and, among others, most of the members of the General Conference were present, besides a number of coloured people who occupied a second gallery in the front end of the church. Bishop M'Kendree entered the pulpit, at the hour for commencing the ser- vices, clothed in very coarse and homely garments, wliich he had worn in the woods of the West ; aud after singing, he kneeled in prayer. As was often tlie case witli him when he commenced his prayer, lie seemed to falter in his speech, clipping some of his words at the end, and hanging upon a syllabic as if it were dilRcult for him to pronounce the word. I looked at him not without some feeling of distrust, thinking to myself, ' I wonder what awkward backwoodsman they have put into the pulpit this morning, to disgrace us with his mawkish manners and uncouth phraseology.' This feel- ing of distrust did not forsake me until some minutes after he had an- nounced his text, which contained the following words : — ' For the hurt of m METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 177 the daughter of my people am I hurt ; I am black ; astonishment liath taken hold of me. Is there no balm in Gilead; is there no physician there? Why, then, is not the health of the daughter of my people recovered ? ' " His introdiK^tiou appeared tame, his sentences broken and disjointed, and his elocution very defective. He at length introduced his main subject, which was to show the spiritual disease of the Jewish church, and of the human family generally ; and then he entered upon his second proposition, which was to analyze the feelings which such a state of things awakened in the souls of God's faithfiJ ambassadors ; but when he came to speak of the blessed effects, upon the heart, of the balm which God had provided for the ' healing of the nations,' he seemed to enter fully into the element in which his soul delighted to move and have its being, and he soon carried the whole congregation away with him into the regions of experimental religion. " Remarking ujjon the objections which some would make to the expression of the feelings realised by a person fully restored to health by an applica- tion of the ' sovereign balm for every wound,' he referred to the shouts of applause so often heard upon our national jubilee, in commemoration of our emancipation from political thraldom, and then said, ' How much more cause has an immortal soul to rejoice and give glory to God for its spiritual deliverance from the bondage of sin!' This was spoken with such an emphasis, with a soul overflowing with the most hallowed and exalted feel- ings, that it was like the sudden bursting of a cloud surcharged with water, and the congregation was instantly overwhelmed with a shower of divine grace from the upper world. At first sudden shrieks, as of persons iu dis- tress, were heard in different parts of the house ; then shouts of praise, and in every direction sobs and groans, and eyes overflowing with tears, while many were prostrated upon the floor, or lay helpless upon the seats. A very large athletic looking preacher, who was sitting by my side, suddenly fell upon his scat as if pierced by a bullet; and I felt my heart melting under sensa- tions which I could not well resist. "After this sudden shower the clouds were disparted, and the vSun of righteousness shoui! out most serenely and delightfully, producing upon all present a consciousness of the Divine approbation : and when the preacher descended from the pulpit, all were filled with admiration of his talents, and were ready to ' magnify the grace of God in him,' as a chosen messenger of good tidings to the lost, saying in their hearts, ' T/iis is the man whom God tleliglits to honour' " At the close of the service, Bishop Asbury was heard to say, " That sermon will make him a bishop." And N 1 »,, I'iJ iH 178 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. it did ; for the worthiness of the life and character of the preacher was canvassed and duly estimated, after his brethren had witnessed the eloquence and power of his preaching ; and in the week following they elected him by a large majority. This was deeply gratifying to Bishop Asbury ; and he recorded in his journal — " The burden is now borne by two pairs of shoulders, instead of one : the care is cast upon two heads and hearts." These two bishops, Asbury and M'Kendree, travelled together to superintend the Churches, and to cry aloud for God in the wilderness, through the different States, and in Canada. "Within eight months, in one tour, they travelled over 6000 miles, attended the sessions of nine Conferences, and publicly assisted at several camp- meetings. To do this they passed over the old diffi- culties of mountains, swamps, forests, and prairies, and crossed the Rivers Ohio and Mississippi, as well as the northern lakes. Their work cheered them in its rich results, as Bishop Asbury declared. " My flesh sinks under labour," says the veteran evangelist. " We are riding in a poor thirty-dollar chaise, in partnership But it must be confessed that it tallies well with our purses. "What bishops ! "Well : but we have great news, and we have great times ; and each Western, Southern, together with the Virginian Conference, will have 1000 souls truly con- verted to God. Is not this an equivalent for a light purse ? And are we not well paid for starving and toil ? Yes : glory to God ! " At one of the camp-meetings which M'Kendree at- tended about this time, a fact occurred which brought into beautiful display the tender sympathy he always felt for broken-hearted seekers of salvation. The camp- METHODIST LABOUREKS IN AMERICA. 179 meeting was held on a farm in Ohio ; and, on the Monday morning, the sacrament of the Lord's Supper was solemnly administered, in the open air, to a very large number of communicants, assembled from all the surrounding parts of the country. The ministers first surrounded the table, and received from Bishop ]\I'Kendree the emblems and memorials of their Saviour's love. Afterwards, with him, they administered to the multitude which came up in companies to partake of the blessed ordinance. The scene was devoutly impres- sive; and a silence pervaded it that was only occa- sionally broken by the grateful exclamations of joyful and worshipping believers. But beyond the circle of ministers and communicants sat a lady leaning Iicr head upon the shoulder of her converted sister, and sobbing as if her heart would break, with sorrow for her sins, as she looked upon the affecting scene before her of hundreds who were so happily and gratefully re- ceiving the tokens of the Redeemer's love. The eyes of the bishop fell upon the penitent. " Come here, my child," he exclaimed, " and kneel at the foot of the cross, where you shall find mercy ! " She publicly asked, if so vile a sinner as she felt herself to be might draw near, and receive into her unholy hands the emblems of Christ's dying love. " Yes, my child," replied M'Kendree, " it was for just such sinners as you that the blessed Jesus died ; and thus in his last agony he demonstrated his power and willingness to save the vilest of the vile by snatching the penitent malefactor from the verge of hell." ''. Then I'll go to Christ ! " said the weeping penitent ; and pressing through the crowd, she bowed down at the table of the Lord. The bishop gave to her the broken bread, and then the cup, — himself in l( \ 180 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. tears, and looking up to heaven in her behalf. As she drank at the cup, the divine assurance of salvation was given to her soul ; and, with a countenance radiant with holy joy and intelligence, she immediately rose from her knees, and told what God had done for her soul, in a strain which caused the whole multitude of communicants to utter a shout of praise to the Almighty and merciful Deliverer. For eight years, these two bishops were united in the general superintendency of the American Methodist Church ; at the end of which period Bishop Asbury " took away his feet," as he said, and resigned his work to his brother M'Kendree, who now, in turn, became the patriarch among American Methodists. M'Kcndree's excessive labours in the difficult West had told upon his constitution, and it soon became evident thnt his career also was drawing to a close. Bishops Enoch George and Robert R. Roberts, had been associated with him in his arduous work, and his friends entreated him to rest. But, like a true ^Methodist pastor, he felt his heart was in itinerant labour ; and he would continue to travel on in his rounds, though in doing so the slightest jolt upon the rugged road pierced him with most acute pain. More than once he returned to his native county to die ; but, on recovering a little strength, ho left it again to travel and labour. At the Conference of 1832, in Philadelphia, Bishop M'Kendree met his brethren in their general assembly for the last time, and delivered to them his farewell words. Dr. liungs, in his '* History of American Methodism," has thus beautifully described the scene which he there beheld : — ** Like a patriarch in the midst of his family, with METHODIST LABOURERS IX AMERICA. 181 liladclphia, Bishop general assembly them his farewell ory of American iscribcd the scene if his family, with his kaad silvered over with the frosts of seventy-five winters, and a countenance beaming with intelligence and good-will, he (Bishop M'Kendree) delivered his valedictory remarks, which are remembered with lively emotions. Rising from his seat to take his departure the day before the Conference adjourned, he halted for a moment, leaning on his staff. With faltering lips, and his eyes swimming with tears, he said, ' ^ly bre- thren and children, love one another ! Let all things be done without strife or vain-glory ; and strive to keep the unity of the spirit in the bond of peace.' Then spreading forth his trembling hands and lifting his eyes towards tht bjavens he pronounced, with faltering and affectionate accents, the apostolic benediction." The ministers gazed with tearful eyes upon his bending form ; and, as he retired, wept with the thought that they should see his face on earth no more. Yet, even after this, so indomitable was the spirit of this Christian hero, that he again set out to punue his itinerant rounds. At length he went to the house of his brother. Dr. James M'Kendree, in Sumner County, to die. Here he experienced intense sufferings of body ; and when medical skill failed to relievo him, he showed his undiminished faith in God by requesting his friends to kneel beside his bed and pray that he might have ease. In calling upon a friend and neigh- bour to do this, he said, " Now, pray for mo — not as you pray in your family — but in faith, and with direct reference to my case." And after the prayer, he said, "It is easy now." In his last days he was principally attended by a loving sister ; and he had also a young niece who watched him almost constantly as he lay sull'ering l\ ! ! p lii 182 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. upon his bed. " Frances," he said to her one day, " you are like a lamp : you wake when I sleep, to shine upon me when I wake.*' He seems to have had very strong family feelings. When he felt that his death was near, he would have his father's bedstead brought, that he might die where his beloved parent had died. On the Sabbath of the week in which his death occurred, his brother perceiving that his end was near, told him so; and asked him if he had anything particular to say, or any departing desire to express. The cheering answer was, " All is well for time or for eternity. I live by faith in the Son of God. For me to live is Christ : to die is gain." This he repeated with delibe- rate emphasis, adding, "I wish that point to be per- fectly understood — that all is well with me, whether I live or die. For two months I have not had a cloud to darken my hope : I have uninterrupted confidence in my Saviour's love." As expressive of his state, he tried to repeat the stanza — " Not a floiiil (loth (irise to darken the skies, Or hide lor a moment the Lord from my eyes." But his voice failed ; and another had to finish the verse for him. Of his burial, he said, " I wish to be buried in the ancient Methodist style : like an old Christian minister." lie continued to suffer until Thursday, when a sudden spasmodic attack twitched up the muscle of his check : ho gently smoothed it down with his hand, then smiled, and passed away from earth, whereon he had lived seventy-seven years. Another memorable name among early Methodist labourers in America, is that of Bishop Geokge, of Virginia. Like Bishop M'Kendreo, ho was converted METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 183 to God under the zealous and successful evangelist, John Easter. He entered upon his itinerant course in 1791 (the year of Mr. Wesley's death), was elected and ordained to the office of bishop in 1816, and died, triumphantly exclaiming, " I am going to heaven, and that's enough ! Glory ! glory !" In personal appearance. Bishop George is described as large and wtll-proportioned, with a broad massive face, a sallow complexion, through exposure and fa- tigues in the open air, and with thick neglected folds of dark air hanging upon his neck. The strong lines of his countenance were touched by religion into soft- ness and gentleness ; but, both in look and quick ear- nest movement, he was ever seen to be a man of ener- getic action. His experience of the power of inward religion was deep. He spent much time in secret prayer ; and often, like the patriarch Isaac, would go out into the fields at eventide to meditate. His morn- ing hours before breakfast were regularly spent in devotional exercises ; and, like holy Thomas Walsh, he not unfrequently rose at midnight, wrapped his cloak about him, and wrestled with God for the salvation of sinners. This made hira a minister of the Spirit, and the honoured instrument of the <. onversion of many. Bishop George does not seem to have been a man of learning; but ho was endowed with an original and independent mind, and evidently possessed the true key to usefulness. He was accustomed to say, " It is the grammutical eloquence of the Holy Ghost which deeply, lastingly, and profitably affects the hearts of men." His mastery over the passions of his hearers was great; and he was distinguished especially for his pathetic power. Not unfrequently, the deeps of his 1/, -it 184, METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. own soul would be broken up within him while he preached, so that he wept, and all were weeping around hira. These were usually seasons of great spiritual good ; so that, if he went forth sowing in tears, he came again reaping in joy and bringing his sheaves with him. Some of the flights of his natural eloquence are said to have been not only beautiful, but inspiring, to all who were looking for the heavenly country ; while, on the other hand, such was the power of his denunciation of sin, and the force with Avhich he car- ried home conviction to the conscience, that cries and shrieks of heart-pierced sinners would often break forth among his congregations in all directions. Dr. Hannah was with him at the General Conference of Baltimore, in 1824, and has a distinct remembrance of eloquent passages in a sermon which he then heard from him. Aniong them was a description of St. John, whom the bishop described as " retiring to the Isle of Patmos covered with the smiles of Jesus, and filled with the presence of God." Dr. Wilbur Fisk, who was his intimate friend, wrote of him in a lady's album : — " HiNlu)]) George lins gone to heaven. lie left this world for glory on the Iweiity-thirtl of August last; nnd from liie known teiulency of his soul hcnvcuwiu'd, nnd liis joyous haste to he gone, there enn he little douht hut his chariot of fire readied i\w j)laec of his destination speedily, niul the triuui|ilunit saint has long ere this taken his scat with the heavenly company. And, Hinet) he is gone, the owner of this, to whom I am a stranger, will pardon nu' ii", iipon oiu' of luT pages, I register my alfeeliomile renienihrnnee of II man whom I lioth loved and adiiiiri'd, and at the report of wliosc ih-ath my lu'nrt has heea made siek. I loved him, for he was n mau of God, devoted to the Church wilii all his soul and strenglh. I loved him, for his WHS an nifcctiuniite licart, and iu' was my friend; iiiit the seivaiit of God — the (tervant of the Church nnd my frii'ud is dead. I admired him, not for his iraruiug, for he was not n learned man ; hut nature iiad done much for hiiii. tjiic hud fushioui'd his soul after uu enlarged model, and hud given it lERICA. METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 185 a him while he weeping around f great spiritual ing in tears, he ying his sheaves latural eloquence il, but inspiring, javenly country ; the power of his th which he car- ce, that cries and often break forth ons. Dr. Hannah nee of Baltimore, ranee of eloquent heard from him. . John, whom the e Isle of Patmos id filled with the sk, who was his y's album : — world for filory on the u liMuk'ncy of his soul i'i\u bi- little doubt but !\tiou speedily, and the the heuveuly coinimiiy. I mil n stranger, will ill't'cliomite renienibranee i\t till' rei)ort of whoso )r he was a nuui of God, I loved hiui, for his it the seivaiit of God — I iidmired liiui, not for ure hud done nineh for model, and had given it an original cast and an independent bearing ; into the heart she had inatilliid the sweetening influences of a tender sympathy, and infused into the houI the lire of a spirit-stirring zeal, sustained by a vigorous and untiring energy i but, to finish his character, grace comes in and renews the whole man, and the Spirit anointed him to preach the Gospel, and the Churdi consecrated him to be one of her bishops. He superintended with dignity and fuithl'nl- ness ; he preached the Gospel with the Holy Ghost sent down from heaveiit Tlic unction that attended his word was not merely like the consecrating oil that ran down Aaron's l)eard, but it was like the anointing of the spirit Ihiit •iriietratcs the heart. He preached with his soul fidl of glory. No wondor, then, that his djnng words were, ' I am going to heaven, and that's enough ! Glory ! glory !' Yes, thou triumphant spirit, that is enough. ' May I die the death of the righteous, and may my last end be like his.' " There seem to have been many interesting and love- able traits in Bishop George's character. Among them were his kindly attention to the young, and his prayer » ful sympathy with the afflicted and distressed. An anecdote is related of him in the Southern Ladies' Com- pail ion, which exhibits him as a true shepherd of the flock over which the Holy Ghost had made him ail overseer : it also affords a very significant lesson for both preachers and people concerning the appointment and reception of ministers. It relates to the appoint- ment which had been made of a young preacher to a, station in Kentucky, and which was very unaccoptiiblo to the Methodists of the place. Like many other ap- pointments made under similar circumstances, it may however be observed, this eventually proved to be God's own ; for lie blessed it ; and that young preacher has since become eminent and useful in the Church which he has served. The bishop, having learned how unwelcome tlio ap- pointment of the young man was to the people, and knowing how much tender feeling there was in this youth, who had been unaccustomed to cold receptions uud i ns\ 186 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. unsympathising treatment, set out with him towards his station, and rode with him through the woods and along the roads some 200 miles. During their journey together, the youthful minister had good opportunity of witness- ing the prayerfulness of the bishop, and of observing what was the secret of his spiritual strength. When about twelve miles from the place of the young man's destination, at the house of a friend, the bishop was attacked with asthma, an affliction to which he was liable. The usual remedies did not avail ; and sending for the young preacher into his room, he directed his attention to the sublime description of the New Jeru- salem given in the latter part of the book of Revela- tions, and requested him to take his Bible with him into the grove, that he might meditate for a season upon the passage referred to, and after that come to him and preach upon it ; for said the bishop, " I want to get made happy: and if my soul were to be powerfully blessed, I believe it would cure my poor body." The young man, not feeling himself qualified to preach on such a sublime portion of the word of God to the bishop, begged to be excused, and respectfully suggested to him that it would be better to avail him- self of the oft-tried expedient for being made happy — that of prayer to God. " Well then, my son," said this father in Christ, " go out of the room, shut the door, and let me be left alone for a season." The door was shut, and after pleading with God alone for a time, the holy wrestler was heard offering praises with a loud and triumphant voice. His bodily malady was healed, as he had anticipated; and he would have his youthful companion prepare by the next morning to accompany him to the appointed station. METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 187 Before their departure, the friend with whom they had lodged, indiscreetly informed the young preacher how his appointment was regarded by the people to whom he was going. Depressed beyond measure by the un- expected communication, he instantly went to the bishop and expressed to him his firm determination not to go to a people who thus so strongly objected to his ap- pointment. The bishop advised him not to act preci- pitately on such an important matter, but to give him- self to prayer for Divine direction, and to wait before deciding what he would do until he should have seen the place and the people. This advice was reluctantly complied with. Arrived at the new station, they were lodged to- gether at the house of the principal ^lethodist there. The next morning, as the bishop was preparing for his departure in a room with his host, and as the young man was standing unseen by the open window, where he could not but hear what was said within, the bishop asked, — " Well, my brother, how will the young man I have brought do for this station ? " — " Not at all," was the instant reply ; " we might as well be left without a preacher altogether as be left to him." — " I hope you will like him better after a time," said the bishop : " I will leave him with you. Only treat him well, and I am persuaded he will be made a blessing to you." — " I have no objection to his remaining at my house for a few weeks, if you desire it," said the host, " but it will be for no good, for the people do not want him." The young man on hearing this was in an agony ; and as soon as the bishop came forth for departure, he followed him to a sheltered part of the road, and said in 188 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. with tears, " Bishop, I cannot remain — I heard what passed in the room between you and IMr. , and you must release me !" — "Get your horse," said the bishop, " and ride with me a part of the way." This direction was readily obeyed ; and the cherished purpose was to ride away altogether from the station. After proceeding together a few miles, and after conversing freely to- gether upon the matter, they turned aside into the forest and prayed for direction and help from above. The presence of God was manifest ; and rising from his knees, the venerable saint took his young friend by the hand, and with a look of paternal love, said, " My son, I have now a proposal to make to you ; and if you will attend to its conditions, and then still request to be removed from this station, I will remove you. The condition is this : go back to the town where we have been, and remain there for a month ; doing diligently the work of an evangelist, fasting one day in ouch week, and spending an hour in each day in special prayer to God that lie would make you a blessing to the people. Can you do this?" asked the bishop. " I think I can," said the preacher, trembling. They parted — the bishop pursuing his way upon the road, and the young man re- turning with fear and mortification to his station. Faithfully were the conditions of the proposal ful- filled ; but the month seemed long and tedious ; for none but one wicked man and his wife gave to him in that time a word of welcome or encouragement. At length the last — the fourth Sabbath of the month arrived, when rising from the struggle of the lust covenanted hour of prayer for a blessing upon him as a preacher in that place, he walked towards his attic window, which commanded a view of the Methodist Cliurch and the METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 189 streets adjoining, when to his great surprise he saw crowds from all directions flocking to the house of God. "With mingled feelings he hastened to the pulpit, won- dering what the gathering of the people in such large numbers could mean. He took for his text (Isaiah, chap, vi., V. 4), — "And the posts of the door moved at the voice of him that cried." The preacher spake with power ; for in that thirtieth hour of special prayer for a blessing, the live coal from the Divine altar had touched his lips. The people sobbed and rejoiced in all parts of the Church. Several were in that service convinced of sin and converted to God. And for the space of four weeks following, the stores and shops of the place were closed each day for several hours, so that the awakened people might assemble together and seek the Lord. Some hundreds united themselves to the Methodist Church of that place ; and thus the unwelcomed preacher (now the Rev. Dr. Stevenson) was made by God, in answer to prayer, an unspeakable and unexpected blessing ! This instructive relation of the conduct of Bishop George towards the young preacher, yields us more insight into tbe bishop's real character, than many pages of descriptive portraiture could afford ; and serves to explain to us the lasting remembrance and deep re- gard in which he was held by thousands in this country. Freeborn Garrettson, whom I have already had oc- casion to name incidentally, was another of the early patriarchs of the American ISIethodist Church, and was intimately associated with Asbury, C jke, and M'Kendree, in laying its deep and broad foundations. He was one of those marked men of God who are memorable by the 190 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. :i 1 : spiritual and heavenly expression of their countenances. We have seen such faces in the Church. Those of men accustomed to commune much with God, and upon whose features the Divine glory seemed to linger after they came from before the mercy-seat, where a bright cloud had overshadowed them. This is more especially seen in such as have feared and loved God from their youth up. Their lineaments have been early trained and fixed by the sweetness and tenderness of religious thought, feeling, and enjoyment ; and sin has not been admitted into the soul to harden them. Holy love and joy were so evidently transfused from the soul into the countenance of Freeborn Garrettson, that an eminent Presbyterian divine has said of the effect produced upon himself by the appearance of this saint of the Lord, " My firtjt convictions, when a boy, were received from observing Mr. Garrettson as he was walking. There was something so holy, so heavenly, in his ex- pression, that I was strongly impressed with the truth of religion." His leading characteristic was Christian singleness of heart. All who knew him speak of him as a man of godly sincerity, of transparent goodness. Without pro- found learning, or extraordinary genius, he possessed good practical sense, and devoted it to the one object of promoting the honour of Christ in the salvation of men. In figure he was round and full : neat and clerical in dress. There is a portrait of him, by Paradise, which represents him somewhat after the manner of Holbein's portrait of Martin Luther ; but with less hardness in the face, and with the hair more neatly parted in front, and turned back over the ears in orderly folds. He was of European descent. His grandfather lived •iiiif!^djm.-Mmt\t ■tti'iwAwKrtJMrw*.- METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 191 in a quaint old house, of small, narrow, red brick, still standing upon a bold open bluff reaching out into Chesapeake Bay ; and was one of five brothers who had adjoining plantations in that part, which are still known by the name of the " Garrettson Forest." His father gave him a liberal education ; but he devoted himself to the study of the physical sciences, rather than to languages or classical literature. From childhood, Freeborn Garrettson was sedate, thoughtful, and virtuous ; and was greatly beloved by all who knew him. But he became convinced, by the Holy Spirit, that mere morality could not save him, that his life had been " without God in the world," and that he needed forgiveness of sins, and inward renewal in righteousness. Being thus graciously led to inquire *' What must I do to be saved ?" he went to the minis- ter of the parish ; but the minister, though a master in Israel, like Nicodemus, knew not these things. Soon after, a Methodist preacher came round into that part of the country, and Garrettson went to hear him. The preacher clearly explained the way of life and salvation, pointed out the necessity of a full surrender of the , heart to God, and what would be its immediate effects. The word came home to Garrettson's heart with power ; and he mounted his horse to ride home on that "Whit- sunday night, with the whole inner man in a fearful state of struggle. " I felt," says he, " Satan on my left, the good spirit on my right. The one contrasted the world and its allurements, prosperity in business, a a good namf>, and honest renown, with that which a proud man likes least to incur — obloquy, shame, dis- trust, the averted glance of friends, the open taunt of enemies." The combat was strong ; but the Holy Spirit 4 . 't Vf Ni i 192 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA, continued to impress upon Garrettson's mind the all- important realities of eternity, and demanded instant decision. Garrettson felt that the crisis had arrived, dropped the bridle, clasped his hands, and exclaimed in the fulness of his heart, " Lord, I will part with all, and become an humble follower of Thee ! " In that instant his soul was filled with joy nnd peace, the "peace of God which passeth all ('.k;-- standing." Nature seemed, in that solemn a;:d solitary place, to unite with him in highest ji^bileo " The stars," said he, "seemed like so jaany aeraphs going forth in their Maker's praise." As he approached his home, the servants, hearing the sound of his rejoicing, ran out to meet him, and to ask what was the matter. " I called the family together for prayer," said he, " for the first time; but my prayer was turned to praise." It was a few days after this that, as he stood up to give out a hymn at family worship, the moral evil of slavery was impressed on his mind. With a willing heart he responded, " Lord, the oppressed shall go free !" — and, turning to the astonished negroes, he proclaimed their liberty, and promised a just compensation for any ser- vices they might render in future. " And my mind was as clear of them," said he, " as if I had never owned them." Thus did he bring forth the fruits meet for repentance ; and, like Zaccheus, give proof of the reality of his change. He not only established a "church in his house," and gathered his bi..' k -.crvants, now freo from bodily bondage, for daily vi'iyr,-." ^^ "'ut he . I forth to the surrounding lands iiiiu households, and declared what God had done for his soul. Blessed by the Lord in his efforts, he saw not only all his brothers, and some of % ERICA. METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 193 3 mind the all- manded instant 9i8 had arrived, ind exclaimed in jart with all, and }d with joy nnd sseth all tvK''- lemn a; id solitary juljileo " The QV a-raphs going le approached his I of his rejoicing, at was the matter, 'er," said he, " for turned to praise." le stood up to give pral evil of slavery a willing heart he 1 go free '."—and, proclaimed their sation for any ser- ' And my mind if I had never rth the fruits meet give proof of the ■ch in his house," w free from bodily L forth to the ,nd declared what by the Lord in his thers, and some of his cousins converted, but beheld many others, both black and white, ^irought " U) know Ilim whom to know is life eternal." By liis instrumentality a Methodist society was soon formed in that pavt of the cduntry, a large log-house was erected for public worship, and the society was regularly visited by the circuit preacher. From what he saw of the fruit of his labours, he next began to think that he ought to devote his entire life to the service of Christ, and to go forth us an itin- erant Methodist preacher. He foresaw that privation and suffering awaited him if he should do so ; but, like the Apostle Paul, he conferred not with flesh and blood, but gave himself up wholly to the word of God and to prayer. He laboured at first in the south-eastei i States, and there bore reviling, beating, and imprison inent for Christ. As a Methodist preacher devoted to Mr. Wesley, he did not take the oath of allegiance to the States during the revolutionary war, and was tb us the more exposed to suffering, but he meekly submitted to it, assured that whatever happened would be for the furtherance of the Gospel. Whether imprisoned or free he proclaimed the word of life to sinners. If at liberty, in addition to travelling on unformed and dangeious roads, he preached from one to four times a day; and when he was in prison, blacks and whites would gather round his grated window to hear him declare how Christ Jesus came into the world to save sinners. Like other devoted servants of God, he seems to have found that th.> highest consolations are often given in the time of suffer- ing, so that he could sing in his damp, solitary dungeon — " When my sorrows most increase, 'I'hcu my strongest joys arc given ; Jesns comes with my distress, And agony is heaven." O I ii : METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. "With all his devoted attachment to Mr. "Wesley, it does not seem that Freeborn Garrettson was less desirous than others of establishing the independence of Method- ism in America, when he believed that could be done safely. lie was among tlie most strenuous withstanders of innovation upon Mr. Wesley's plan, at the first, con- cerning attendance at the Established Church, and on its sacraments. But when Dr. Coke arrived with the letter of authority to organise a separate and distinct church, Garrettson went, as the doctor states, " like an arrow," both north and south, to gather the preachers for tlic Conference held at Baltimore in ITS-! ; and when the American Methodist Church was organised, he sup- ported it with all his life, showing himself willing to be or do anything in its service. When asked to go to Nova Scotia as a missionary to the people in that cold and cheerless region, ho went readily, and laboured diligently and successfully. Though elected bishop for that part of the continent, for some unexplained reason he was not ordained to the ofiice ; yet he neither com- plained, nor so much as asked for an explanation. With unabated zeal ho went forth, north of New York, and with several devoted young men laboured right and left of (he Hudson liiver. Here lie remained, a diligent, f^ devoted labourer for Christ, until the year 1817, wlien, muisked by liimself, the Conference returned him as a •' supernumerary." Tlie latter portion of Garretlson's life seems to have been very pleasantly spent at llhinebeck, a place most lovely in its situation by the Hudson lliver. There, in one of his itinerant rounds, he had found, in ^liss Jiivingstone, a wile from the Lord. From her own pos- sessions, she more than made up to him what he had lERlCA. Mr. Wesley, it 1 was less desirous idence of Method- lat could be done uous withstanders I, at the first, con- id Church, and on « arrived with the larate and distinct or states, " like an ther the preachers in 1784 ; and when organised, he sup- imself willing to be aen asked to go to people in that cold [dily, and laboured h elected bishop for unexplained reason ;et he neither coni- oxphmation. With of New York, and mxiid right and left luaincd, a diligent, { 10 year 1817, when, returned him as a life seems to have A)eck, a phice most lliver. Tlioro, in j lad found, in ^li'^'^ I Vrom her own pos- hiiu what ho had MKTHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 195 I expended as a Methodist preacher out of his own patri- mony. With this " elect lady " he had a social and happy abode in the evening of his days. The bishops and ministers of Methodism were wont to repair to his house with the greatest freedom. Bishop Asbury records of his first visit there, " He hath a beautiful land and water prospect, and a good, simple, elegant, useful house for God, his people, and his family." Eut while he had this peaceful, happy home, in which he was " given to hospitality," yet he did not even in old age cease to travel and preach for the benefit of the churches. It was during one of these journeys that he hav. taid to preach, at New York, what proved to be his last sermon, lie was seized with mortal sickness, and his sufferings for the time were very painful. FiHed with holy submission, he said, " I shall be purified as by fire : I sliall be made perfect through siifi'erhig; it is all right — there is not a pain too much." A\'lieu his bodily strength was exhausted, he exclaimed, " I want to go home ; I want to be with Jesus — I want to be with Jesus." To a friend who inquired how he felt spiritually, he said, " I feel the perfect love of God in my soul." His love for Wcsleyan Methodism continued ardent to the end, for, on thinking and speaking of the heaven to wliieh he was departing, he joyousl}- ohs(>rved, "And I sluill see Mr. Wesley too." As he went down into the valley, ho was heard praising God for all His goodiu'ss, and, as if rehearsing for the song of heaven, among his List utterances were " llnly, holy, holy Lord God Almighty: llalleliijiih: halldujah:' hallelujah !" Then clasping his hands and raising his eyes to heaven, ho exclaimed, " Glory ! glory !" Others in that room felt 196 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. i / the presence and glory of God so overwhelming that they were readj' to sink upon the floor with its weight and power upon their souls. The rapturous look which marked his victory over death continued upon his coun- tenance till it was hidden from human view. His body was borne to Rhinebeck, where it was buried amidst a weeping multitude, in the rear of that church in which he had preached so frequently and faithfully the Gospel of Christ. Thus, at the green old age of seventy-six, and in the fifty-second year of his ministry, triumphantly rejoicing in God, the devoted Freeborn Garrettson passed away to his eternal reward. lie was one of the most honoured instruments of God in founding and building up the Methodist Episcopal Church in Ame- rica. AYhen ho joined it, there were only 19 ministers and 3128 members belonging to it, and when he was removed from it by death, it comprised 1 576 ministers, and 381,997 members. Jesse Lf.e, whom I have already named as the leading pioneer for Methodism in the States of New lOnglaud, vras another signal instrument of God in founding and spreading His truth in America. lie was a native of Virginia (a State which has been remark- ably productive of eminent men of diversified talent and usefulness), and was converted to God through tlio instrumentality of the simple-hearted and earnest Robert AVilliams, who, as we have seen, was associated witli the Rev. jMr. Garratt in the revival scenes of his parish and noiglibourhood. Jesse lice was the early compuniun of Francis Asbury, the first Methodist chaplain to the House of Congress, — the first historian of American ^lethodism, — and u most laborious, self- I ERICA. irwhelming that with its weight arous look which d upon his coun- view. His body s buried amidst a church in which hfuUy the Gospel re of seventy-six, itry, triumphantly eborn Garrettson J^ le was one of the in founding and [ Church in Ame- ! only 19 ministers and when ho was ed 1576 ministers, ly named as the ,hc States of New ument of God in America. Ho was has been remark- l' diversified talent to God through ;artcd and earnest een, was associated Ivival scenes of his l,eo was the early lO first Methodist || the first historian jst laborious, sell'- METIIODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 197 denjnng, and persevering minister of Christ. He is described as having been a large, plain man, with a look of peculiar intelligence and shrewdness. He pos- sessed real native wit, and was most ready and pointed in his replies to public opponents. Many anecdotes are related of him, and some of them are very racy and amusing, and highly ilhistrate bis power of repartee. His last sermon was preached at a camp-meeting, and it is said that when he gave out his text of, " But grow in grace," he announced it with these words, " You will find ray text in the lad Epistle of St. Peter, the J((st chapter, the last verse ; and it may be that from it 1 shall preach my lad sermon ! " The sermon is described as being one of surpassing power. Immediately after it, ho received the summons for departure to another world. Even at the point of his exit, it is said his wit and pleasantry broke forth, but without levity — it was "the ruling passion strong in death." He died happy, at the ago of fifty-eight, exclaiming, " Hallelujah ! Jesus reigns ! " Indeed, triumph in death seems to have been the almost universal experience of these early American worthies. God evidently honoured hia faithful and devot'd workmen. There are other bishops and ministers of ^lethodism whose memories are gratefully cherished here, but I nuist only make brief mention of them. There is Ihsiioi' IloiiEUTS, " the grandfather of all the mission- aries," as the Ived j\[en of the Far West were accus- tomed to call him. Ho was for many years the senior bishop of the Church, and appears to have been a plain, simple-minded, benignant, and able man. He never forgot his lowly couditioii when Methodism found him, U'^ : in ; I 198 MKTIIODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. II fiirmor's boy in a hunter's shirt, and taught him to windy and pray in the depths of the forest, and there to proaeh over his youthful sermons to thick, standing trees, as if they were living men. When, as a local ])n'a(']ier, ho went forth in the giirb of a backvvoods- niau, to pioich in his own neighbourliood, one who heard his first sermon, and who was well able to judge of lis cluiracter, has said, " It was worthy of grey Ijairs and of broad-cloth." As a preacher, he was ])i)\verl'ul and pnj)ular from the beginning, and that whether in tlie Indian's wigwam, the forest camp- meoling, or the metropolitan cliurch. Ilis election to the oflice of bishop made no difference in his way of life. lie built himself a log-cabin in the State of Indiana, and lived in it, though the wolves were often heard howling round it in droves. There he laboured with his own hands (at intervals of cessation from preaching journeys), felling trees, cultivating ground, and ministering to his own necessities. From this rude, ])riinitive retreat he used to go forth, in order to take tlio oversight of the ministers and churches, lie was Hiinple aiul patriarchal in appearance, but was arra)'ed in the " beauty of holiness," for purity of heart and life were eminently his. His last two texts were clia- ra(!t eristic of himself: one, the words of the royal j)reacher, "He that lovetii pureness of heart, for the grace of his lips the king will be his friend ;" and the other, " lUessod are the pure in heart, for they shall see Ood." This modest, unassuming, and faithful Metliodist minister fell cahnly and peacefully asleep in the liord, in the year ISV\. His body was at first deposited in a loiu'ly field on his own farm, but has »iiice, at the general call of the Church, been interred ^ \ METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA, 100 at Grocncastlo, where stands the Methodist University lor the State of Indiana. Bishop ITkddtng's is another name held in groat love and veneration by tlie American Methodist Church. lie was originally from tlie Green Mountains, wluiro, amid the bracing air, he had become possessed of u strong frame, and seemed prepared for almost any amount of endurance. ]}ut notwithstanding liis iron constitution, his early hardships were such as ulraost broke him down. lie is described a^ a large and somewhat rugged man ; of solid, compact mind ; powerful both in preaching and debute, and orderly and resolute in the administration of church disc;!- plino. It is said that ho suffered m»ich from calumny and reproach among brethren, but that, with un- daunted courage, he was meek and forgiving. Tlis last words were uttered on the 9th of April, 1 S5*J, and were, " Glory — glory — glory to God ! I am happy — ■ filled ! " ling, and faithful )cacefully asleep in body was at first iwn farm, but has irch, been interred ]]ishop ]']mouy, as I have stated, sleeps in the dust, with Bishops Asbury and George, in the ]\Iount of Olives' Cemetery at Baltimore. lie was a man of orderly and practical mind, of accurate scholarship, of resolute, persevering diligence, and of courteous, gon. tlemanly demeanour. He attended as the delegate to the British (Conference in the year 1820, for \\w settle- ment with it of affairs respecting IMethodism in Upper Canada. His life was suddenly terminated in December, 18;}o, by his being hurled out from his carriage muir to the city of Baltimore, through the running away of u restive and ungovernable horse. il 200 METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. '>\ :\i' Among earlier names, John Easter, the father in Christ of Bishop M'Kendree, is spoken of as having fulfilled a short, but brilliant course. He was indeed a burning and a shining light. In one circuit (that of Brunswick, Virginia), not less than eighteen hundred souls were brought to a saving knowledge of Christ under his ministry, within the space of one year. His name, as one specially owned by God for powerful con- viction and numerous conversions, is held in profound respect and veneration. Caleb B. Pedicoud, combined in himself many excellent qualities, and suiFered much for his Lord and Master. Like Paul, he bore upon his body " the marks of the Lord Jesus," having been pub- licly whipped and beaten upon the road, for preaching the Gospel. He carried the scars with him to the grave. AViLLiA.M Gill is mentioned as a veteran preacher, of solid mind and blameless life ; and John Tunnell, Sylvester Hutchinson, and George Pickering, have each left a name beloved and honoured for excellence. Among more recent worthies, who now rest from their labours, and whose works do follow them, are the amiable and attractive John Summerfield, who, at the age of twenty-eight, had consumed his slender frame by the earnestness of his pulpit exercises, which charmed and edified many thousands ; and Dr. Stephen (Jlin, a powerful preacher of the Gospel, whoso discourses, although they extended at times over two hours and two hours and a half, are said by those who heard tliem never to have been too long. By devotedness to study and to the work of Christ, he found that, thougli naturally of a robust frame, he had become, as he said, "an old man and a broken reed at twenty- seven." In death, he said to his wife composedly, RICA. METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA. 201 the father in 1 of as having He was indeed circuit (that of ^hteen hundred Ledge of Christ one year. His )r powerful con- .eld in profound iicouD, combined d suffered much he bore upon his laving been pub- id, for preaching liim to the grave, eran preacher, of John Tunnell, PicKEKiNG, have I for excellence. now rest from ow them, are the lELD, who, at the slender frame by s, which charmed r. Stephen (Jlin, whoso discourses, r two hours and those who heard By dovotcdness he found that, le had become, as reed at tweuty- wifo composedly. " I may die just as I am, trusting, believing, but with no rapturous expressions. Though I think I should have a glad feeling to find myself on the borders of endless life, with infirmities, disappointments, sorrows, for ever at an end. I feel that it cannot be that I should be cast out from heaven, where are gathered the people whom I love, and with whose spirits and tastes I sympathise — from the society I relish, to that which I loathe, — to the hell where the worldly, the unbelieving, for whose society I have a distaste, with whom I have nothing in common, find their portion. It is unphilosophical to think so : it cannot be in God's economy to separate me from what I have so long trusted in. He sends to hell those who will not submit to His will ; but my will is in harmony with His. The law of affinities will find place." These, and many others I cannot name, are held in veneration, and will be held in lasting regard, by American Methodists, for their character, and suffer- ings, and labours for Christ. i; f LETTER XII. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. Appearance of the Assembly — The Bishops — The Deh'p;nt(!8 from the Fnr West — Patriarchal Labourers — Their Jealousy of Uecluusiou — Stylo of their Oratory — Dr. Jacob Young — Dr. Peter Cartwrinht, or " Unrle Peter" — His Preaching — Strange Anecdote — "Pntliur I'inU'y " — His Indian Labours — " Scpiirc Grey Eyes," the Indian Preuclier — Atrecting Scene iu the Coufcreuce — Order and Courtesy of the Coul'ureucc— lis Reception of Foreign Representatives. The general appearance of the Conforonco is very impressive. The bishops are grave, dignified men, who bear in their very looks and demeanour tlio euro of the churches. There is no haste or impetuosity in any- thing they say or do ; bu"^. at all times, they show great belf-possession and wisdom. When ai)poalod to on points of law and order, they show thonisclvos fully prepared to answer ; and yet tlnur response to u (piestion is given in such a manner that it by no means tends to check free and full discussion by the Conforenc(>, or to place the party complained of for being out of order in a painful or hmniliating position. And if any one appeals against their decisions to tlio Gciu>ral (/onfor- ence, they manifest no dogmatic aulhoi'ily, or tenacity of opinion ; but calmlj'- submit the cuso to the assiMubly of their brethren for final determination. The bishops n m H THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLI.. 203 DIANArOLIS, are, very evidently, humble and devout men, who speak and act with reverence towards God, and with respect and affection towards their brethren. This ennobles them in the estimation of all thoughtful and candid observers, and gives to them an aspect of apos- tolic dignity when seated before the general assembly of their brethren in the ministry. The Delegates from the Annual Conferences, sent by the preachers to represent them and their churches, have the appearance of real labourers in the vineyard of the Lord. This is the first impression made upon one's mind when looking on them. They look as if they had performed hard toil in the service of their Master. IManv of them are far advanced in life, and have evidently borne their share in the burthen and heat of the day. Some are deeply tanned by the sun, and exhibit unmistakeable marks of continuous exposure to the climate. There are men from California, and Oregon, and the shores of the Pacific, looking worn and exhausted by itinerant service under the scorching sun ; and seated among them are venerable men from the north and the east, with peaceful beaming faces, and with long hair white as wool. It is impossible to look upon the men of this Conference without discerning, at a glance, that many of them are persons of strong decisive character, and yet devout and humble servants of the Lamb. Distinct and marked in their primitive energy and zeal, here are a few of the early backwoods- men preachers, the true pioneers of the West, who have spent their lives in the rough unsheltered wilderness. These fathers of Western jMethodism seem absorbed with interest in the trutli and service of Christ, and evidently watch with godly jealousy over the doctrines 204 TUE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. hi '4 and discipline of a system, whose superlative value they have proved, by witnessing its transforming and saving effects upon the most uncultivated examples of human nature. They take their full share in the proceedings of the Conference, and most earnestly use the influence which their long and successful labours have secured them, in checking any attempts that may be made, either by preachers or people, to slacken the cords or to loosen the stakes of the Methodist Taber- nacle. Some of the speeches we have heard from these earnest, pract^'cal men were speeches of great power. They were evidently spontancv^us, and purely extem- pore ; but sentence after Renttmce struck home, to those for whom they were intended, with indescribable pun- gency and force. This was especially the case in the instance where complaints of circuit-hardship or over-labour were made by a preacher, and where he pleaded for relief or indul- gence. Then the ( aI m-^n arose and told of their own early life ; how they had wandered in the Avoods after Indians and settlers, to seek these as subjects for their Lord ; how they had to take shelter in greasy, smoking, wigwams, or in rugged, unfurnished log-cabins ; or, as one of tu?m said, ''make beds of gathered leaves for themselves and their wives; to sleep on hard boards between negroes and Indians ; shoot and hunt for their meals before they could eat ; to make their breakfast or dinner upon bear and racoon bacon, without salt or vege- tables ; and with no quarterly allowance but what they could obtain by the sale of buffalo skins, to pass from station to station, and all this through year after year." After these startling narratives of their own self-deny- ing and self-sacrificing services for Christ in the wilder- - i lANAPOLIS. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 205 ness, the old men turned upon such as sought modern indulgence, with words of overwhelming rebuke. Their speeches were, for the most part, highly figurative. They showed that what they declared before Masters of Arts and Doctors of Divinity (who, they said, were too numerous) was true : that they had " studied in Is^ature's own great university — high up on the moun- tains — deep down in the valleys — in the spreading woods and waving prairies, and in the free school of self-culture." For nearly all their images and forms of expression were drawn from the scenes and the life of the western wilderness. Within the compass of a quarter of an hour's address, the speaker would, in his figures of speech, be shooting, hunting and " racooning," as with forest-settlers ; canoein^r; and shooting, as with Indians ; soaring and screaming, as with the eagle ; bounding, as with the buffalo and the deer ; climbing with the bear, springing with the panther, howling with the wolf, and darting with the serpent. Indeed, the wild beasts, birds, and Indians of the forest, would not unfrequently be all turned upon the delinquent, or the antagonist ; and made, there and then, to tear in pieces the false plea, and prey upon the false position ; and yet all this was done with manifest zeal for Christ and His cause, and without any laborious or strained effort for effect. With all its variety and singular combination of metaphors, the style was simple and unlaboured. Like all true eloquence, theirs consisted of short unmistakeable words, which were fused into flowing harmony by the inward fervour of the soul, that seized and employed them. Theirs was no patch-work of school- boy eloquence, which any man with a remnant of modesty must become increasingly wearied of repeating ') I n: (.: |i 206 TUE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIAN AlOLIS. and using as lie advances in life ; but it was the elo- quence of a sincere and earnest nature, that mellows and strengthens with years. It was Nature's own oratory : that of the strong and sincere soul pouring forth its convictions under the influence of renewing and sanctifying grace, and reaching and stirring to their depths the souls of all who were within hearing of it. Three of these pioneer fiithers are especially prominent and active in the Conference. They have all passed the allotted boundary of human life, and yet they are full of vigour. Like a few ancient trees that remain to tell of tlie grandeur of some primeval forest, these few survivors of a by-gone generation, by their look and behaviour, embody to your imagination the towering strength and uusubduable enterprise which characterised the men who laboured with them in the wilderness. The eldest of them. Dr. Jacob Young, is not so hale and vigorous as the other two. He has been of late years the subject of aflliction, that seems to have nearly bereft him of eyesight. He is of Scotch Presbyterian descent, and is the son of a Virginian farmer. In early life, by the aid of his father's books, he wrought his way out of Calvinism into Arminianism, and experienced rege- neration of heart. Almost ever since, and through a long life, he has been labouring as an itinerant Me- thodist pi'eacher in the AVestern States. He is now a tall, slender man, with deeply-sunken eyes that seem filled with thought, and flowing, snow-white hair that renders him venerable even to the eye, while one's remembrance of his patriarchal age deepens the feeling. He retains undoubted marks of careful self-culture, and though not so strong and vigorous as his two veteran TUB GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 207 brethren, nor so animated and figurative in his style of speaking, yet, on all great questions, he has something to say which commands the attention of the Conference, lie is evidently a man of sound understanding and reliable judgment. The next in advance of years is Dr. Peter Cart- WKiGHT, a large, square-built man, with some native ruggedness, mingled with a good deal of humour, both iu his looks and in his speeches. There is a granite-like texture in his flesh, and a knotted roughness in his features, that stamp him as one who is hardy and enduring. And yet it would be a great omission in the slightest sketch of his appearance to represent him as lacking in geniality and good nature, for both his mouth and eyes, as well as the radiant play of the upper part of his cheeks, tell of a kindly and sociable nature. His head is large, and firmly supported between ample and compact shoulders. His brow is broad, and overhung with a mass of iron-grey hair. His eyes are intensely deep in colour, and shine like dark fires be- neath his shaggy eye-brows, while crow's-feet wrinkles mark their corners, and add to the peculiar expression of his countenance. His complexion, never fair, is deeply tanned by the sun. His voice, when he begins to speak, is tremulous, but, as he proceeds, its old power returns, its rich natural organ tones are recovered, and he swells and rolls its deep diapasons most manfully. At times, to give point and wing to his side-shot arrows, he assumes a mock tragic tone and look, and then, after relating some backwood anecdote which convulses the assembly with irresistible laughter while he himself is solemnly grave, he falls upon his antagonist with over- whelming power, and leaves the victim prostrate under 208 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. I' ■ ' sarcasms. When roused by combined opposition, he launches in swift succession keen- edged sentences, and thoughts vivid and scathing as lightning, and then, with a voice roaring like a forest hurricane, he pours out his condemnations and warnings with a force that crushes his foe, and fills others that hear with a sensation approaching to awe. Indeed, to hunt down and put to the cover of shame those whom he regards as dangerous to constitutional Methodism seem.s to be regarded by him as his proper vocation. He plainly performs this work with all the zest of a backwoodsman hunter, and, to accomplish it, he spares neither bishops, deputations, presiding elders, ministers, nor people. On some occa- sions he is absolutely terrible in execution, and seems to stand on the floor of the Conference as fearless and as irresistible as the lion in his domain. This unique and really grand sample of manhood was born and brought up among the wildest mountains of Kentucky, and has been in his day a most popular and powerful open-air preacher. For camp-meetings in the woods, his name was a magnet to draw forth thou- sands from their scattered homes to hear the words of eternal life. Some of his forest gatherings are said to have been immense, and under his full, trumpet- toned, and mighty voice, that alternately wailed and thundered as he lamented the sinful state of mankind, and foretold tljoir doom, the multitudes bowed their heads and waved as tlie long grass of the prairie-land bows and waves with the wind. On one occasion, not less than tivo hundred persons pro8trat(>d themselves on tlieir knees while he was preaching, and prayed to God for mercy. Many anecdotes are related, as you may suppose, in connection with his name, and some of these approach the ludicrous. ANArOLIS. opposition, he sentences, and and then, with le pours out his :ce that crushes th a sensation own and put to ds as dangerous be regarded by ly performs this an hunter, and, 3ps, deputations, On some occa- on, and seems to 8 fearless and as I of manhood was est mountains of lost popular and imp-meetings in raw forth tliou- icar the words of rings are said to 1, trumpet-toned, td and thundered ind, and foretold heads and waved s and waves with i\an five himdrcd knees while he |r mercy. Many ise, in connection ich the ludicrous. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 209 It is said that on one occasion, when interrupted by scoft'ors, he descended from his pu pit, and seized a notorious leader of them. The man liad never been mastered in fight, but the preacher shook him until the border-ruffian, for such he was, was completely subdued. Doctor Peter then grasped him by the neck, made him kneel down and repeat a prayer to God for mercy, and then the preacher, while his opponents and the crowd were stricken with wonder, resumed his station, and preached on without further disturbance. Of course, I cannot vouch for the authenticity of this story, or deter- mine what amount of fact or measure of exaggeration there may be in it. I can only affirm that Dr. Peter Cartwright does not seem an unlikely hero for such a narrative, and that he has a most marvellous facility for passing from grave to gay, and from gay to grave. I need only add of him that he entered the itinerant ministry at the early period of eighteen years old, and has continued in it ever since, toiling chiefly on the Western frontier, and advancing as it has advanced, lie has studied hard amidst the woods and prairies ; and, in addition to the study of divinity, has made, it is said, considerable attainments in n)athematic9, logic, physic, law, and the learned languages. And still ho is found working for Christ and for ^lethodism among the emigrants and settlers of the Far West. The third of those Western veterans is the Rev. James B. Finlky, or " Father Finley," as ho is usually culled. He is a most loveablo, brave old man. In person he is largo and massive, but ho is neither so rugged in exterior nor so stormy in matter as " Undo l>eter" — the name often familiarly given to Dr. Cart- wright. Father Finley's face wears an habitual ox- 210 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. J 'i^ pression of serenity. Religion lias softened down the harder lines of his sun- embrowned countenance, and made it shine ; and his long grey hair thrown smoothly back from his forehead, and flowing upon his neck and shoulders, places him also among the patriarchs in appearance. lie is dressed in buff-coloured clothing of a primitive fashion, and always bears his staff with him, whether he walks or is seated. This keeps him at all times upright, and wherever you might see him, he would be a noticeable figure, and you would set him down for more than an ordinary character. When he speaks in the Conference, he rests what he says firmly and confi- dently on his age and experience in the work of God, and he always speaks graphically and well. In addition to his manly, Saxon style of expression, and forest- gathered imagery, there is a pathos in his addresses which is very winning. The deep founts of his nature often find vent in tears, and while speaking in the assembly, he seems to yearn over his audience with the full affection of a father in Israel. He has been through a great portion of his life a missionarj'' to the Indians. He was among the first appointed missionaries from the Methodist Episcopal Church to that noble, but unci- vilised and flagrantly abused people. His father was a Virginian minister of Scotch descent, and his ancestors fought hard for American independence. He was attracted towards the Indians in early life by their wild and adventurous sports, and seems to have loved them still more on account of the cruel wrongs they suffered. It was therefore by preference tluit he became a mis- sionary to them, after his conversion to God. lie took charge of the; first Indians converted under John Stewart, the coloured local preacher, in the north-west ANAPOLIS. med down tlie intenance, and irown smoothly a his neck and s patriarchs in ired clothing of i staff with him, eeps him at all ee him, he would ,et him down for len he speaks in armly and confi- he work of God, vrell. In addition 3;on, and forest- in his addresses nts of his nature speaking in the ludience with the has been through ry to the Indians, iiiissionaries from noble, but unci- 1 lis father was a and his ancestors idencc. Ho was life by their wild .) have loved theiu )iig8 they suffered, lio became a mis- to God. lie took rted under John in the north-west THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 211 of the upper States, and became himself God's instrument in the conversion of numbers of the red people, whom he has seen gathered into churches and die happy in the Lord, In his autobiography, which he has published, and which is a most interesting and exciting book on the Methodism of the backwoods. Father Finley gives sketches of several Indian preachers, with specimens of their style of preaching ; and some of these are affecting, as showing what God has done by and for the de- scendants of those who were formerly lords of the American forests and lakes. So much was this veteran missionary revered and beloved by the aboriginal Indians that they formally elected him a chief of the " Bear" tribe; as they also elected his wife to be a chief's daughter of the "Turkey" tribe. A scene has transpired in the Conference, between Father Finley and one of his Indian converts, that reached the height of moral sublimity, and which was overpowering in its effect. The convert had learned that his beloved father in the Gospel was to be as far north-west as Indianapolis, attending there with the brethren. And so the Indian set off with his " equaw," on foot ; and, as soon as he arrived at the city, l^^ather Finley brought him to the Conftu'cnce, and had him introduced, through Bishop Janes (the Indians' bisliop), to the assembly. lie was handed up to the low plat- form, where he could see and be seen by all ; and was announced as "Squire Grey Eyes," an Indian Metho- dist preacher of the Wyandot nation. lie appeared to be upwards of fifty years of age ; and is somewhat smaller in figure than the Indian red-men are in general. He has deeply sunken grey eyes, with smooth strong hair of mingled white and black. Care and ! I 5, ! ( r i^ ; I' 212 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. suffering have ploughed their furrows deep upon his tawny, shrunken face. He looked footworn and hag- gard ; and there were signs on his legs and clothes of his recent struggles over the soil, and through the entangled brushwood of the forest. On his introduction, Father Finley stood up by his side, and said, with deep emotion, " Brethren, twenty- five years ago, I found this our brother in the wilderness, tt wild savage man, filled with all the pride and imagi- nary pomp and glory of an Indian chieftain. I preached to him * the glorious Gospel of the blessed God.' He listened, was soundly converted, and retained his con- version. No man can say that Brother Grey 1^'yes has ever turned away from the narrow path, either to the right hand or to the left. He has held on his way to /ion from that time to this ; and has been honourably insti'umental in the conversion of others. Twenty years ago, at Springfield, in Ohio, he was ordained a deacon of our Church. Sumnude Watt, a fellow-labourer with h'vn in the Gospel, was barbarously killed by the white people who sought the lands of the "Wyandot Indians ; and this so discouraged the tribe that they removed far away across the great river, into Kansas. There, since the removal into this new settlement, this my brother and son in the Gospel has preached the word of life to his persecuted people ; and has continued to be a fellow- labourer with you, though you have heard little or nothing of him. INIy heart burned, as with fire, when I met him to-day. And when I inquired of him con- corning my spiritual children among his tribe, I learned that many of them had gone home to heaven. Blessed l;e God for ever sending me among the poor Indians fo preach the Gospel of His Son! Soon, very soon, I THE aENElUL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 313 I shall join my red brethren and sisters before the Throne. Brethren, pray and labour for the Indians ! Thero never was a people more robbed and maltreated than they. If I were young, I would compete with tho stoutest of you for the privilege of bearing, once more, the divine message of grace and mercy to them ; and would gladly labour for their salvation. But I am old, and near my end. Bless the Lord, however, I am a happy old man ! " While this was being spoken, the Indian — who before his conversion would have died rather tlian shod a tear, and who, according to the spirit of his people, would have stoutly chaunted his own death-song whilo in the hands of murderous tormentors — sobbed and cried like a child. The tears gushed profusely from his eyes, chased their course in streams down his cheeks, and fell pattering down upon the floor. He tried to speak, but was choked with feeling. A^ain he tried, and gave utterance to a few words, which a worn, browned labourer among the Indians interpreted fur the Conference as being, — " I am far too small to Hpeak to you — I am very small among Christian ministers ; but the love of Christ is in my h art. I am going, liko you, to heaven, and when we m et, I will speak tu you there!" The darkly sunburnt interpretur then related to tlio Conference how he had heard tho last sermon of Brollier Grey Eyes preached to the Wyandot Indians beforu they removed into the Far West ; and tliat among other words which ho heard the preacher deliver to tho assembled and weeping tribe, and which he must over remember, were the following: "^ly peoi)lc, wo now go from this place of our fathers, who are buried hero. 214 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. We must bid an everlasting farewell to our mountains, our rivers, and our hunting grounds. And, most of all, we must bid farewell to our house of God, which we built, and wherein we have worshipped and rejoiced together. But God shall go with us, and bless us in our new home." The interpreter further related that, on reaching their new settlement. Grey Eyes and his people built first a house for God before they prepared habitations for themselves ; and that, when questioned by some white men as to their reason for so doing, they replied, " Because we care more for our souls than for our bodies ; and more for eternity than time ! " As may be supposed, the whole of this scene produced a great effect upon the assembly. Amidst floods of tears from more than two hundred grateful and rejoicing ministers of Jesus Christ, there were bursts of " Praise the Lord!" and "Glory be to God!" from every part of the State-House. The ministers insisted upon making a collection, there and then, for Brother Grey Eyes and his tribe. This they did in hats seized at the moment for their object ; and then the Indian preacher departed with his treasure, deeply wondering at the goodness of both God and man towards him. There are in the Conference other " strong men," to use the phrase of the Americans when they would describe mental ability. Some of them are ready and powerful in debate, and others are men of ripe, finished scholarship. These last are principally in office, either as editors of periodicals, or professors in colleges ; and it is really a sui'prise to a British Methodist to have introduced to him so many ministers who are in offices not immediately connected with circuits or stations. But when the largo number of Methodist publications, ti|i ANAPOLIS. )ur mountains, ad, most of all, 3rod, which we I and rejoiced nd bless us in ;r related that, r Eyes and his } they prepared hen questioned r so doing, they • souls than for an time!" As ene produced a t floods of tears II and rejoicing ursts of " Praise Vom every part ,ed upon making ■ Grey Eyes and I at the moment •eacher departed the goodness of strong men," to icn they would n are ready and of ripe, finished in office, either n colleges; and ithodist to have ho are in offices lits or stations. ist publications, THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 21.5 colleges, and academies, in relation with the Conference, are taken into the account, one's wonder on this ground must greatly abate. Our American brethren give their best men in learning and scholarship to these objects, as they ought to do ; nnd the demand for accomplished scholars is more than equal to the supply. The proceedings of the Conference are very orderly. Every one that speaks must first address the chair, and must take his turn as his " Mr. President " may be heard by the presiding Bishop. Every one must speak to a resolution that has been regularly moved and seconded ; and which, in due time, must be handed up in writing to the secretary. All, in speaking, must observe the rules agreed upon for the government of the Con- ference. If any indulgence, as to time, or otherwise, be allowed, it must be by resolution to that efiect. Every man can say what he pleases, so long as he speaks respectfully and in order ; and in the Conference, as throughout America, there is a self-confident air in public speaking exceeding what we see or hear, ordi- narily, in England. There seems to be less fear of critics, and a kind of disdain of any care as to propriety or style in speaking. A man here not only says what he hfjs to say without fear, but he will sometimes tumble out a sentence " neck and heels " together, or send it sprawling into the midst of the assembly on " all fours." This does not help weak o^ , urn men ; but it very effectually serves "strong" and earnest men. It enables them to put out uU their strength to the greatest advantage. One thing cannot fail to surprise an English visitor to American assemblies, engaged in discussing and deciding public matters; and that is the frequent ' jl^V-^ 1 1 I 216 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. question that is raised as to the judgment pronounced by the chair. We found this in the Congress, ut Wash- ington, where a good part of a day was spent in dis- cussing the accuracy of a decision pronounced by the Speaker ; and we find it here in the Conference, where the decision by the presiding bishop is questioned daity, and sometimes several times in a day. AV^ith us, in England, the decision by the chair is final ; and an appeal from it would be considered intrusiv'o and dis- orderly. But it is not so here. No offence is produced by the cry of " Question " from any one, after judgment has been pronounced upon the carrying of a resolution ; and the bishop simply says, " rise and bo counted," when the reported numbers determine the result. lUit it would be an unpardonable slander upon the American Methodist ministers to represent them as unciourtoous ; or as unconfiding, either in each other, or in deputed visitors. They are highly respectful to one another in their language and conduct. They seem to reverence human nature in itself; and the man, as throughout America generally, is more in tlieir estimation tluin any accidental or adventitious circumstances whatever. And so with their treatment of strariger visitors. Such were received and entertained by them \\\ the most respectful and affectionate manner. T!ior«.i were introduced into their assembly, the llevs. Jolm Ityerson and Eichard Jones, as representatives from the Metho- dist Conference of Western Canada ; the Uevs. Kobinson Scott and R. G. Gather, jM.A., from the ^lelliodist Churches of Ireland ; as well as Dr. Hannah and myself from the Wesleyan Methodist Conference of Enghmd. And in all cases, and at all times, tliey showed all and each of us the most fraternal and most courteous ^ ; .NAPOMS. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 217 t pronounced •ess, ut AVusli- spent in dis- unced by the ■orencc, wlioro ia questioned ly. AVith us, linal ; and un. asiv'O and dis- co is produced iftor judfjniont f a resolution ; bo counted," le result. But I tho Ainerieau 8 un(H)urt()0U8 ; or ill deputed one another in n to reverence as throughout at ion than any whatever. ani^or visitors. them in tho Thero were John Uyorson jui tho Mc^tho- (evs. Kobinsou tho Methodist nah and myseli' CO of Knghmd. bowed all and most courteous attention. Their nigh veneration and filial regard for ]3ritish Methodism were plainly evident in their conduct to us, as visitors from England. If we had been am- bassadors from princes, they could not have shown us greater favour. They provided for us a residence with the governor of the State — the highest official per- sonage belonging to it. On our arrival, the bishops waited upon us to inquire after our health and comfort ; and to assure us of the great gratification which they and their brethren had in our vifit to them. At the time appointed for our introduction to the Conference, two of the bishops came to the governor's house, to accompany us to the State-House, and to lead us up to the platform. The senior bishop took the chair, out of his turn, in order that he might formally introduce us to the Conference ; and the whole assembly stood up to receive us. In introducing us, the venerable Bishop Waugh, with silvered head, expressed the deep interest of that hour to the Conference, the high gratification ot all present to receive among them for their session, brethren from the parent body ; and assured us of the cordial greetings and hearty welcome given to us by all the assembly. And when, after the Conference Letter from Eng- land had been read, Dr. Hannah and I addressed the assembly, responding to its salutations, and expressing a desire that America and England might never be disunited, either Methodistically or nationally, tears burst forth in every direction, and cries of " Never ! never ! " were heard from many voices. By official direction, we took our seats among the bishops; and then, by formal resolutions, the Conference expressed and recorded the cordial welcome it gave to us as / i] HI 218 THE QENEBAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. visitors from the British Conference ; the free and full reciprocation it made to our addresses on fraternal fel- lowship; the fervency with which it united in the prayer to God for unbroken preservation of union between our respective Churches and countries ; and the earnest desire it entertained that, as we might feel disposed, we should participate at any time in the discussions of the Conference. Afterwards we were, by resolution, requested to preach before the Conference. We did so; business being suspended that the brethren might attend. They hoard us attentively and joyfully, for they praised God aloud for His word and for His grace. They formally recorded their thanks for our services, and asked for the publication of our sermons, that they and their people might have a more permanent memorial of our visit to them. In all our private interviews with the bishops and ministers, which have been numerous, we have enjoyed the freest and friendliest intercourse. Many inquiries have been made as to the state and prospects of '* the old body " in England, and as to its extended agencies, both at home and abroad ; and the most reverential mention is made of previous visitors from the British Conference, and of fathers in English Methodism of whom they have heard or read. Letters of greeting and salutation were sent to the Conference by Churches and communities which were not represented personally in the assembly. There was an interesting document from our Wesley an- Methodist brethren in France, for whose aid £1000 had been con- tributed during the year by the Methodist Episcopal Missionary Society of America. There was likewise a )IANAP0LIS. he free and full m fraternal fel- b united in the jration of union countries ; and as we might feel ,ny time in the m, requested to iid so; business rht attend. They they praised God !. They formally es, and asked for t they and their t memorial of our the bishops and 5, we have enjoyed Many inquiries prospects of " the extended agencies, most reverential from the British ish Methodism of were sent to the mities which were embly. There was /"esleyan-Methodist .000 had been con- ethodist Episcopal lere was likewise u THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 219 fraternal address from the Congregational Union of England and Wales. These were received, read, and responded to, in a most cordial and appropriate manner. But the particulars of the business of the Conference, and the extent of its relationships, I must reserve for other letters. 'I l: ]^i LETTER XIII. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. Election of officers — Calling the Roll of Delegates — Appointment of Com- mittees — Opening Address of the Bishops — Statistics of American Methodism — Education and Literature — Coloured People's College — Periodicals — Missions to the Far West — To the Indians — To Settlers from Germany, the North of Europe, &c. — To Liberia, to Sweden, Nor- way, &c. lice. — Status of Alethodism in America — Tin- new Proposition respecting Slave-holding Members — Judgment of the Bishops thereon. As I have already indicated, tlie Conference assembles in the State-House of Indiana. The hall in which it holds its session is large, and has numerous massive pillars supporting the panelled dome of the half-circular part appropriated to business, in the middle of the building. Opposite the bend of the half -circle is a platform, two steps high from the floor, of sufficient length to hold nine or ten persons, and with a table in front for writing upon. The seven bishops, with the deputations from distant churches, sit upon arm-chairs on this platform. Immediately before these, " within the bar," as it is termed, are the clerks and other officers; and around them, on semicircular rows of seats, as far as the pillars, are the members of the Con- ference. Behind the pillars, both on the floor and in small corner galleries, are the visitors. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 221 A considerable time was occupied, at the opening, in what is called " organising the Conference ;" that is, in appointing its officers and committees. The officers of the Conference are not regarded as holding stations of honour, like the officers of the British Conference. Though the secretary, for instance, must be of good standing among his brethren to warrant their choice of him, yet his election rests principally on their con- fidence in his business tact and general capacity. He is not so frequently associated with the bishops in official acts and documents as the secretary of the Bri- tish Conference is associated with its president. He has three assistant secretaries, who take the minutes, and prepare the lists for him. The election to each of these offices is by ballot of all the members. The Conference first opened at nine o'clock on Thurs- day morning, May 1st : Bishop AVaugh, the senior bishop, presiding. After devotional exercises of read- ing the Scriptures, singing, and prayer, the roll of the Conference was called ; when the delegates from the thirty-eigh< Annual Conferences answered to their names in order, and each presented his certificate of election as ti representative. The names of the Annual Conferencies were called in the following order : — i . New Hampshire. 2. New York. 3. Troy. 4. New York, East. 5. California. 6. Maine. 7. Vermont. 8. Black River. 9. Western Virginia. 10. East Maine. 11. Pittsburg. 12. Wyoming. 13. Eric. 14. Oneida. 15. East Genesee. 16. Oreiron. 17. North-Western Indiana. 18. Genesee. 19. ^Michigan. 20. Ohio. 21. Indiana. 22. North Indiana. 222 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. ij w. 23. Wisconsin. 24. Rock River, 25. North Ohio. 26. Cincinnati. 27. Iowa. 28. South-Eastern Indiana. 29. Southern Illinois. 30. Illinois. 31. Kentucky. 32. Missouri. 33. Arkansas. 34. Baltimore. 35. Philadelphia. 36. New England. 37. Providence. 38. New Jersey. "With a map of the United States before you, this list will enable you to learn something of the localities and the extent of Methodist territories represented in this Quadrennial, or General Conference. The delegates numbered from two to fifteen from each of these thirty- eight Annual Conferences, according to their respective distances and relative importance, making in all between 200 and 300. These representatives, as you will con- jecture, are in the main the principal ministers, for intelligence and experience, of the districts from which they are sent by their ministerial brethren. The Conference, as you know, is open to the public. Immediately after the election of officers, it was occupied for several sittings in fixing the times for meeting 'n each day, in appointing the parties who should bo responsible for the daily publication of its proceedings, in electing the committees likely to bo required for the consideration of the details of the different departments of its business, and in agreeing upon the rules to be observed in the government of the Conference during its session. The standing Committees for business are about ten in number, and they nearly all consist of thirty-eight members — that is to siiy, of one delegate from eacli of the thirty-eight Annual Conferences. The committee on the Episcopu(;y, on the Itintrancy, on IJoundaries, on Slavery, on the Book Concern, on Missions, on Education, lANAPOLIS. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 223 •i. IS. )re. Iphia. ngland. ;nce. :rsey. lefore you, this af the localities represented in The delegates of these thirty- their respective g in all between s you will con- l ministers, for icts from which en. 1 to the public. it was occupied meeting "n each [1 bo responsible ^ngs, in electing le consideration 9 of its business, observed in the s session. The about ten in of thirty-eight to from each of The committee 1 boundaries, on s, on Education, on the Tract Cause, on Sunday-schools, on Revisals, and on unfinished business. Such are the chief committees. There are also smaller committees on Temperance, on the Bible Cause, on Temporal Economy, and on the Expenses of Delegates. This list of committees will show you, at a glance, what kind of business is anti- cipated bj-^ the assembly. I need scarcely observe that the early appointment of these select bodies is well calculated to facilitate general business. The rules agreed upon for the government of the Conference are nineteen in number, and relate chiefly to the attendance of delegates, to the order of presenting memorials, and to the proposing, discussing, and curry- ing of resolutions. To these rules the assembly is bound to adhere, and they are printed and circulated for the use of the delegates. The bishops do not take any prominent part in the formal proposal and discussion of questions. They simply preside in rotation, and give their judgment when appealed to on points of law and order. But they present a joint address to the General Conference, reporting upon the state of ^Methodism in its several departments, and offering suggestions for such altera- tions or improvements as they may deem fit and neces- sary. Bishop Janes read the address we heard, and wo thought it most inteiosting and appropriate. It con- tained a statistical account of the progress and extent of the work of God, as it had come under Iheir supervision (hiring the four years which had elapsed since the last General Conference. Of this account, rendered by the bishops, you will be glad to learn something, inasmuch us it, willi other autheuLic notices which I may refer to, will enable you to judge in some degree of what God is !i 1 gPjg^UkM. li U 224 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. doing by his ^lethodist servants in this, the northern section of the United States of America ; though mere numerals will not in this case, any more than in others, fully make known the amount of good accomplished by the Holy Spirit, through external agencies, upon the minds and hearts of immortal men. The address of the bishops reported that among the encouraging proofs of progress to be adduced were the following: — In 1851, the official minutes reported 4450 itinerant ministers, 6700 local preachers, and 721,804 members and probationers; while the minutes of 1855 return 5408 itinerant ministers, 6G10 local preachers, and 799,431 members and probationers : showing a net increase during tlie four years of 958 itinerant ministers, 910 local preachers, and 77,627 members and pro- bationers. The statistics on education and literature showed that there are fourteen chartered Universities, or large col- leges, pertaining to American Methodism, and in which the sons of the more wealthy Methodists are being trained for useful and honourable service in the state and in the Church ; seventy Academies or seminaries of a high class, affording ample literary advantages to Methodist youth of both sexes, and two Biblical or theological institutions, formed or being formed, in distant parts of the States. Common day-schools, for the purposes of an ordinary commercial education, you are aware, are pro- vided by Government in all convenient parts of the States: it being understood that American youth have a legitimate claim upon their country for such an educa- tion as sliall lit them for its service. And I must say, while the occasion serves, that, so far as I could ascertain, the common day-schools are generally good and cflectivc ; NAPOLIS. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 225 the northern though mere ban in others, jomplished by lies, upon the lat among the ,uced were the reported 4450 , and 721,804 nutes of 1855 Dcal preachers, showing a net srant ministers, bers and pro- ire showed that 8, or large col- , and in which ists are being in the state and nuriesofahigh Ds to Methodist or theological istant parts of purposes of an iware, are pro- parts of the n youth have a sucli an educa- nd I must suy, could ascertain, d and effective ; the school buildings are usually healthy and commodious ; the teachers are dul}' qualified : they are moral ; in many instances religious ; and the Scriptures are freely used in the schools. The Methodist Sunday-schools were reported by the bishops as being 10,469 in number, and as having ll;3,159 officers and teachers, and 579,126 scholars. The number of conversions to God in these schools within the four years, as far as ascertained, was stated as being 65,096. There is also a very encouraging movement now being made by the Methodists for the education of the youth of the coloured race. A committee lias obtained land and buildings for an institution where coloured vouth of both sexes shall be taught the higher branches of learning, and from which they shall be sent forth to instruct and train, in Sabbath and week-day schools, the 3'outh of their own people. This institution is situated in the southern pjirt of the State of Ohio, so as to bo accessible from the Southern States, and ilrcady there have been instances of wcaltliy and benevolent gentlemen emancipating their slaves, and sending them to what is termed " The Coloured People's College " for education. The beneficial results of tliis institution to the African nice, both in the States and in their own land, are likely, muler the blessing of God, to be very great. It will bring forth to public observation the capacities and iu'(|uirements of a long abused and despised section of tlie luiinan family, aiul will provide well-educated teachers and ministers for the coloured children and conirreirations, both in America and Africa. As declared hy the deliberate judgment of the General Conference, it " will tend, under God, to the most speedy and Q 22Q THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INPTANAPOLIS. efroctual elevation of the coloured race in this countr}', oud to prepare the way for the restoration of the benighted millions of down-trodden Africa to all the blessings of civilisation, science, and religion." The list of publications issued under the direction of the General Conference is very large, and shows that our Ameiican Methodist brethren know how to appreciate the important power of the press. The Sabbath-school Library has in it lOGG volumes, which have been supplied to it by the Methodist "Book Concern." The total issues of publications during the last four years have been 15,588,920 publications of all kinds, including 7,2:20,409 bound volumes, and 8,1302, 517 tracts and pamphlets. Some of these are in the German, Swedish, and Danish languages. 'J'he Methodist periodicals are exceedingly numerous, and are scattered abroad throughout the Northern Htutes very largely. They immber, in single copies for one year, 9,097,840, having for them 285,401 annual Bubscribors. Yet there are not more than two or three of these periodii-als which, at present, are remunerative to any c(jn8iderable extent. But the good to be effected is regarded in their circulation ratlver than in the money returns, — and the good which is thus effected no doubt is very great. I give you the list of these Conference periodicals, as reported by the bishops, that you may see what the names and numbero of th'.> respective publica- tions aie : — Christ iiiii Advocntc tiiul Jdiiniiil Vfsldii ("liiislinu Advociite . Niirllicni Chrislimi Advociitc Ndrlh-wcutcni Clirisliiin Advucalc rillsbu.;; C'hritjliuu Advucatu AnnnnI Siitisci'lbor*. . 28,718 . 15,(100 . 10,033 8000 AP0LI3. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS, 237 his country, ition of the a to all the j> n ! direction of iows that our Lo appreciate ihbath-school been supplied " The total ,r years have ds, including 7 tracts and nan, Swedish, T-ly numerous, the Northern igle copies for 5,401 annual two or three •eniunerative to he etlected in the money cted no doubt se Conference t you may see ective publica- u;\l Hiihscrllicrs. ;J'.t,HT3 ~'S,71H 15, IK 10 1(1,1 K53 bOOO Annual Subscribers, Sunday-school Advocate . ]11,0'J2 ^Missionary Advocate . . 31,000 Christian Apologist (German) (i',lf)7 Quarterly Review 2721 National Magazine . ir,,875 Ladies' Repository . 2'J,58() These are all conducted by editors appointed from tliG ministers belonging to the General Conference. Thoy are for the most part very creditable publications, and each promotes and upholds spiritual Christianity. Tho profits of Conference publications are professedly for tlu' support of worn-out ministers, but, since the secession of the Southern churches from the nortliern on the ground of Slavery, the yearly profits have had to bo applied to the payment of the share of capital in book affairs which has been adjudged to the South. The missionary dopartment is reported as boiujjf cheeringly prosperous. As with us in England, tho Methodist Conference here has under its dirci;ti(jn both Homo and Foreign Missions. Of necessity, it has bt'ou })rincipally occupied with what may be called Home Mis- sions, though some parts of this field of its operatiou uro several thousand miles off". Tho swarming eiiiigraulrt from different European countries, and the rapid advauuo of the American population westward, demands a con- stant augmentation of the number of missionaries, if tho people are to be overtaken and instructed in tho way (»f life. And raanj'' of tho settlers in tho Western States would be as destitute of the means of grace, and very soon as nuudi lost to religion and morality, as are tho heathens in pagan lands, if it were not for MeliiodiHt missionaries going forth into the backwoods and iuto newly-formed settlements. So that properly, and in the I 228 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. right order, the Conference has directed its first mis- sionary efibrts to the necessities of America, and supports largely from its mission fund the preachers sent forth into California, Oregon, Minnesota, Kansas, Nebraska, and other states and districts of the Far AVest, as well as those employed in " sparsely " settled portions of the inner parts of the country, where there are not churches large enough to maintain their own ministers. The Conference has also missions to the Inciiaiis. Nor arc its efforts limited to the preaching of the Grospcl in the ears of the red-man. With the aid of Government, it is pi'oviding from five to ten acres of ground for each Indian fauiily wliich comes under its influence : and this land, it is said, can never be sold, leased, or rented to or bj' a white man. Viy this philan- thropic measure, it is hoped that a feeling of attachment to the soil will be created among the native Indians, and that tlicy Mill cease to wander about, and be less liable to moral corruption by vicious emigrants and settlers. And some of these missions are in a promising condition. {Several Indian convcits have built them- selves houses, and have been reclaimed from their roaming and restless habits. Others have been brought to settle on farms or in villages around the missionary stations, so that the missionaries express their hopes of the work of God being permanent among their red converts. They re^jort — " The Indians, Uiider the iuHuence of our missi(, 's, arc all gradually improving in the arts of civilised life. Their religious experience in the things of God is generally quite clear. Their attendance on the means of grace is quite uniform. Their devotions arc marked with groat fervour and sim- plicity, yet quite free from excesses." It is also stated \POLIS. s first mis- nd supports ) sent forth s, Nebraska, rest, as well •tions of the lot churches rs. the Inciiaiis. biiig of the ii the aid of ten acres of les under its ever be sold, r this phihm- )f attachment tive Indians, i, and be less ni grants and X a promising built tliem- from their been brought 10 niissioiuiry their hopes of mg- their red Uiider the lly improving )us experience clear. Their ui(c vuiiform. vour and sim- t is also stated THE GENERAL CONFEREKCE AT INI>IANAPOLIS. 229 by the same authorities that, as converts, the red-men are steadfast in their Christian life and profession — that apostasy with them is very rare, and that, so far from wasting away as do the unconverted Indians, and as it hud been supposed all the aborigines must waste away, all of them who have received the Gospel increase rapidly, insomuch that the missions to them are strait- ened for room. On one occasion forty Indians had been converted to God, and on another as nianj' as sixty. Bishop Janes has the supervision of these Indian mis- sions, and though they have been injured and retarded by white men who have corrupted the converts by " fire- water," and by their profligacies, yet they are now in a very hopeful and promising condition. There are at present ten Methodist missionaries, exclusi\'ely dovotod to this department of evangelical labour. Among the domestic missions belonging to the General Conference must be also named the missions to the Germans, the Scandinavians, the Welsh, the French, and the Seamen, within the United States. Some of these are of recent origin, but their growth has been very rapid, more especially that of the German Mission. It is estimated that there are 700,000 of this nation within the States, and to a large portion of these Method- ism is successfully proclaiming the word of eternal life. There arc not fewer than 11,778 church members and probationers of the Gernum people now under the ^ pas- toral care and instruction of 187 Methodist missionaries. These have schools and German literature plenteously supplied to them, and they are confessedly more liberal, according to their means, in the support of the work of God among them than any other section of Christians or Methodists within the States. The Scandinavian 230 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. Missions are those to the Swedes, Norwogiuns, and Danes, who have emigrated in considerable numbcvs to the west and north-west of the States. Of these thrro are about 1000 church members and probationers, T.ndor the care of eighteen missionaries. About fifteen mis- sionaries dcA'ote themselves to the Welsh and French emigrants, and there are six missionaries to the seunien who visit or reside in the principal seaports. Tho Domestic 3Iissions, including those to settlers not other- wise provided for, and to the foreign populations within the United States, are 581 in number, and they have belonging to them 63G missionaries, and CO, 222 church members and probationers. The amount appropriated by tho jMissionary Society for their support during the last year was 184,093 dollars, or nearly £37,000. But our Methodist brethren on this side of the Atlantic are not neglectful of the foreign department of missionary enterprise ; and it is evident that they are now about to put forth new strength for important services in regions beyond their own land. Ah I have already stated, they have a flourishing INHssion in Liberia, wliieh stretches over 400 miles south of the British settlements on the coast of Western Africa, and extends backwards into the country along d which might otherwise be consumed in confused debate. I havo already noted for yoii the appointment of these committees in what is termed the organisation of Conference, but it may be well 1 1 explain to you their powers and services. There are, us I stuted, ten of them, distinguished by the titles I named. 1. The Committee ou the Eprnvpavi/ has under its examination the whole administration and conduct of the bishops iov the ])rece(ling four years ; and us there is one minister ou this committee from each of the Annual C'onferences, no judicial act of the episcopate can well be left unnoticed. If tliere bo any complaint, or anything appearing doubtful to the committee, the THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDFANAPOLIS. 237 m JArOLlS. ode of Proirdure— eiicc— ^'e^v Mclio- .'iiusc of lU'liirious iiisters— Extti\siou sioii n':, as I stated, named. Kis under its nd eonduet oi' ; and as there I eaeh of the the episcopate my eoniplainl, connnittce, the bishop concerned is respectfully summoned before it to • explain or to defend his conduct, as the case may be. And in the end, when due inquiry has been made, the committee report to the Conference the result of :^s examinations, and recommend approval or condemnation. The freest and most unrestricted inquiry and debate are admitted in the Conference when the report of any committee is presented. l\ut fjcm the decision of the General Conference, whether it approves or rejects the advice of the com:..lttee, a bisliop has no appeal : it is tlie final trilmnal. Provision is made, in the " Disci- pline," for the suspension of a bishop by a committee composed of his brethren and presiding elders, during the intervals of the quadrennial conference, if such com- mittee be satisfied that ho has transgressed ; but he has still an appeal left to the General Conference. 2. The Committee on Ifiiicrtnici/ examines the minutes of the Annual Conferences during tlie four previous years, and reports thereon to the General Conference, according to its view of the observance or infringement of the *' Discipline ;" the Conference then approving or censuring, as the case may seem to them to require. ']. The Committee on HoiiiKfarics has assigned to it all applications for alterations in the boundary lines of the Animal Conferences, and for the formation of new con- ferences. The labours of this commiftee, through the ever-changing character of (lie population, are neces- sarily gri'uf. As many as nine new conferences have been added at this session : increasing the numl)er of Annual Conferences for the nortl) of the United .States to a total of forty- seven. 4. The C(mnii!tteo on Slairri/ has referred to i( for oonsidoration idl petitions and memorials on that subject. II !' 238 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. # and is required to collect and classify the proposals, to inquire into their agreement with the established con- stitution of the Church, and to report its opinions and recommendations thereon to the Conference. If in this or any other committee a minority is not satisfied with the report of the majority, it can draw up one for itself, and present the same to the Conference, and the Con- ference can adopt either report. 6. The Committee on the Booh Concern examines the reports from the book establishment and rej^ositories, and any recommendations that may have been made for improvement in the publications of Methodism, or with regard to their circulation. C. The Committee on Missions considers all business relating to missions, whether home or foreign. In the intervals between the quadrennial conferences, the mis- sions arc under the direction of a "Board of Managers," consisting of sixteen Methodist ministers and sixteen ]\Iethodist laymen, who are annually elected, with the bishops as preside i; • iiid vice-presidents, and, at the General Conference, iheir acts and administration are reviewed by this committee, who report to the Conference as they may deem necessui'y. Tlie Corresponding Se- cretary and Treasurer of the Board of jManajjers arc appointed by the CJeneral Conference, and aro also amenable to it. 7. The Committee on Ju/i(C(i/ioii examines, prei)ares, and recommends to tlie General Conference whatever measures may seem advisable in relation to seminaries, colleges, universities, or Biblical institutes. 8. The Committee on tSiindtii/sr/too/s inquires info the system of instruction pursued, the character of tlio books and publications employed in Sunday-schools, lNAPOLIS. THE GENERAL CONFEREXCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 239 3 proposals, to tablished con- 1 opinions and ce. If in this satisfied with I one for itself, , and the Con- it examines the id repositories, I been made for lodism, or with 3rs all business oreign. In the renees, the mis- 1 of Managers," Drs and sixteen iectcd, with the its, and, at the ninist ration are the Conference rresponding Se- ^lanagers are and are also mines, prepares, jrence whatever )n to seminaries, les. /.s inquires into eluiraeter of the Sunday-schools, and recommends anything to the Conference which it deems likely to promote their efficiency. 9. The Tract Committee inquires into the system and agency in use for tract distribution, as well as into the character of the tracts circulated, and reports thereon to the Conference. 10. The Committee on llccmth examines into all verbal alterations to be made in the " Discipline," and other Conference records, so that the words may suitably express the meaning intended; and they recommend accordingly. These are the general, or standing committees, which are composed of one delegate from eacli annual con- ference, chosen by his co-delogatcs of the conference to which he belongs ; and each committee chooses its own chairman. There are, in addition to these, a few special committees appointed as cases may require, such as tho Committees on Temperance, the Bible Cause, ike, which I have already named. These committees have appor- tioned to them the business to be prepared for the General Conference, as it may arise, on the presentation of memorials, the reading of minutes, &c. The memorials presented are very numerous. Several days have been occupied with the mere presentation of them. Tliey arc of all possible kinds — from conferences, diurclies, com- mittees, and individuals ; and, to obtain thom for consi- deration in connnittee, the roll of each annual conference is called, when tiie delegates jjresent in lot at ion what- ever they may have brouglit with them, or whatever niny have been sent to them of tliis documentary nature iur consideration by tho Cleneral Conference. This year there were ^Memorials fi>r Lay l{,ei)resentation. Local rreaehers' Conferences, and Couferencis of Coloured 210 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. ]\rinisiters, as well as for other proposed changes, which came prominently before the Confei'ence for discussion and for formal judgment. Among the more important subjects for the *' action" of the Conference, as the brethren here are accustomed 1o term their miited decisions on practical matters, were those of — 1. A Metropolitan Church to be erected in New York, ns a grateful memorial by Methodists to Almighty God for his merciful goodness in employing them so success- fully and extensively in spreading scriptural holiness through the land. This church is to be supplied by 7ninisters in rotation, Tppointod for a term of years by Iho bishops, from all pa^-ts of the country. The ground fi)r the structure has been purchaiicd, and a considerable sum of money has already been contributed, through the several annual conferences, towards it. 2. An Annual Conference in Germany ; the work of God having prospered there until this measure has become necessary for the wants of the people, and for the iidniissi(m and over-sight of ministers. Such a (!oiifer(Mice was authorised, and is to be presided over by one of the bishops. 3. The liible Oaiise, which had lis representative in the Conference — the Itev. I)r. Ilolditch, a ^lethodist minister, and one of the general secretaries, who reported thut th<' income of tl)e J»il)le Soci'.^Tv Ibr the last year was Jt!».'{,l(17 dollars, or ,t'7S,000, and that its issues for the yenr hud been (»(i8,'*2-") volumes. The Society publish-s the liible, entire and in parts, in ten modern languages, bcHidcH what it seiuls forth in Indian and African diidects, and is nowengag<ernor of the State. This was a most interestiUiit I 'jj /; a it* 24.2 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. service. Most appropriate aud aftecting addresses were given by ministers from all parts — some relating what God was doing by Sunday-scm-ols in Or^^gon, in Cali- fornia, and Oil the -bores nf the P.(cifi<" On; unburnt, uttenuatoil irinister told of a time he bad known in California, tbo land of golc- mines, when a little child was so great j novelty that, where it was found, rough miners gathered r^'imd it with intense intoresi' and wept over 't in remt nibrance of home associa lions ; and when a minister of his iccivalntancc c ^'ed back a mother reiiriiig from the congiegatioi'. because hor infant was crying, publicly stating that its little voice was sweeter music than either he or his people had heard for months past. But now, he said, through the rush of emigrants for tlie gold-mines, children had become numerous, and many hundreds of thcin, whose parents were of various nations, were gathered into Sunday-schools, and were rising up useful and honourable members of the Church and of society. Another minister related how he and his colleague first dropped anchor in tlio harbour of San Francisco, at a time when there was no city, but only a few shaky terieraonts and an old windmill ; how they there opened the first 8uiiday-s Jiool on the coast of the Pacific Ocean ; and how they had since been in ()rcgon,'.vhere fifty-eight Sunda}'- schools wore now established, with 10,0'*) volani'js ill use ; and that in these schools, during the past year, there had been 1 U) convcrs:oi.ts to God. There was also n meeting held of the committee and friends of general education, on a Saturday afternoon, presided over by the llev. Dr. 'J'hompson (a highly - acccniplished man, of i'lrglish birth), at which Dr. Hannah gave a very r and interesting actcunt r.. m Mm ■MM POLIS. resses were .uting what on, in Cali- t sunburnt, known in little child ound, rough %^ and wept i ; and when 3lc a mother !• infant was ! was sweeter d for months of emigrants umerovis, and ire of various lis, and were )f the Church his colleague Francisco, at a few shaky there opened 'acilic Ocean ; ere tlfty-eight ^vith 10,U<^^> is, dm-ing the o God. ommittec and ;iy afternoon, on (a highly - it which !>»•■ ng acLv unt THE GENEEAL CONFERENCE AT INDIAXAPOLIS 243 the Wesleyan Theological Institution in England, as to its character, working, and beneficial influence upon the Connexion ; and I spoke of our day-school operations for the poor, and of Kingswood and ^Voodhouse Grove Schools as seminaries provided for the education of ministers' sons. The establishment of Biblical institutes in America, the rapid multiplication of Methodist col- leges and seminaries here, induced many inquiries con- cerning the educational movements of Methodism in our own land, which we answered as well as we could. The report of the state and prospects of the institution for the education of coloured youth was adopted by the Conference — all breathing the most tender compassion towards the long-dograded African race within the States, expressing the most encouraging hopes of their elevation to lionour and usefulness through such an institution, and most earnestly recommending it to the benevolent in ISIethodism, and the patriotic and philan- thropic in the country at large. But the subjects discussed at greatest length, and which excited the deepest interest in the Conference, were : — 1. The appeals by censured and expelled ministers ajrainst the decisions of their annual conferences. These appeals were fourteen or fifteen in number, and were conducted in the most fornuil und court-like manner. The cas'^ was first stated, and the " action" of the Annual Conference read from its journal- Then the appellant, in person or by substitute, pleaded. In most cases a sub- stitute VI as engaged ; and he, as well as the chosen ad- vocate for the Conference, being usually a minister of great aL>Jl''^ , the pleadings were not unfrequently sustained in a voy masterly manner. In the majority of cases ^^^HO^HIt^ ^tf^^^^^la^MwaMb 2-14 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANArOLIS. appealed against this year, either the decisions of the annual conferences were reversed, or the cases wore sent back with directions for new trials. Some of these appeals occupied several sittings, and, witli the increase of annual conferences, and tliu general spread of Methodism, the difficulty of hearing all such appeals in the General Conference is increasingly felt. But, though urged to consider this difficulty by the bisliops, and to try, if practicable, to provide some substitute in a large and wisely-selected committee, yet the brethi'cn are not disposed to give up this privilege of supremo judicuturo at present — the manifest diificulty presenting itself at once of erecting a court of final appeal, in the form of a select coiamittee, that should have more weight and authority than an annual conference. 2. The extension of time for a minister's stay in a circuit, or lesidenco at a station. Tho ministers are appointed bj the bishops, in council with tlu) presiding elders ; and the limit, at present, of their couli nuance at one place is two years. Some of tho ministers desire to extend it to three, or even to five years, and have memorialised the Conference accordingly Hut, on examination of these memorials, the comniitteo reported that it was not in evidence tb.it any considerable number of tlie people desired such alteration ; and, jealous of any symptoms of decline in the spirit of iliuciraney, tho Committee on the Itinerancy recommended that no change be made by the Conference. It must Iw r(>mem- bered tliat, in not a few instances, an American Methodist minister preaches tliree or four times a week in tho sumo church, and that his place is not taken by another, except once a (junrter by the presiding ehkn* ; so that, within his two years, he has preached oflener to the \.fSL-^z OLIS. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 245 )T18 of the ■wore sent ) of these 10 increase spread of appeals in lut, though opfl, and to ) in a largo ren are not > pidiciituro no; ilHolf at tlio form of weight and 's stay in a liuisters are 111 presiding 111 in nance at ors desire to ai\d have Hut, on ttoo reported •able n\unber ndous of any ii(>rancy, the led that no i b(i rmiiem- iin Methodist in the same by another, tier ; so that, 'toner to the same people than an English Methodist minister does ordinarily in three yea^-s. This consideration has, no doubt, its influence both with ministers and people in determining them against the proposed change. 3. A most earnest discussion arose on the report by the committee on the exclusion or modification of the office of " presiding elder." This seems to have been an old question for dispute, and an alteration had, this time, been memorialised for by some large and in- fluential circuits. The presiding elder is an officer chosen and appointed by a bishop to act for him in overlooking the spiritual and other interests of the churches within a given limit, for a period of four years ; and who receives his support from the Joint contributions of the circuits he overlooks. He has, in the absence of the bishop for whom he acts, the charge of all the elders, deacons, travelling and local preachers, and exhorters. He presides at quarterly conference?, for the circuits (what we call quari :^ly meetings) ; hears appeals there against the preachers, deacons, or stcwar* li, , changes, receives, or suspends preachers, as may he deemed necessary, during ihe intervals of the annual conferences ; inquires into the state of the cireuits, churches, and schools ; and has the power of decision on the laws governing the diflerent cascB, subject to appeals to the next annual conference. He reports the state of the churches to the bishop of Lis district, and gives the bishop counsel for the stationing of ministers. There were as many as ninety presiding o' 'a., iu this General Conference, delegated by their brethren of the Annual Conference. The memorialists, in some instances, sought to have the presiding elder etationed like another ndnister in a circuit within liis district, ■ II f:**- ^'■('.> ^^ .* [^ 246 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. from which circuit they proposed that he should receiA^e h' support and travelling expenses. In other instances, tho memorialists proposed that each Annual Conference should regulate its own economy with regard to this office ; while some memorialist' suggested that certain circuits named might be excepted from the support of this office. '^' . . •• of the ministers think and say they can perform all the work of a presiding elder in their own circuits, and that they do not need his visits ; while some of tlie people regard the office as an unnecessary charge upon them. But the majority both of preachers and people are satisfied of the propriety of preserving the office; and the action of the General Conference was, that no change in regard to it should be made at present. 4. The appointment of a bishop, required for Liberia, was, as I have before stated, another subject of earnest discussion. The Missionary C -'amittee recomn^ended that, if a suitable person could not be found " this Conference willing to be ordained and go for>'i as resident bishop for Africa, the Annual Conference in Liberia should be directed to elect an elder in good btanding among them, and send him to Ameri< i for episcopal ordination by the bishops, — who should ordain him under the express conditions, that the churches of which he should have the oversight should still belong to the Methodist Episcopal Church in America, and that his, jurisdiction, as a bishop, should be limited to Africa. Some objections were ra'sed against this recom- menr'ation of the committer, on the ground of the disf ^lino, which requires that a bishop shall travel thi j.Lgh the connexion at large. And some few were for separating the Liberian churches to act for them- ■■■■"•»lii«pi«lp*^ POLIS. uld receive V instances, Conference ard to this hat certain support of id say they ier in their isits ; while iinuv-cessary )f preachers ' preserving Conference be made at . for Liberia, t of earnest icomn.onded )und ■ this ) for.'i as onference in der in good Ameri( a for hould ordain churches of [1 still belong America, and be limited to it this recom- :ound of the shall travel )me few were ict for them- THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 217 selves, recommending them to follow the discipline and government of the American Methodist Episcopal Church. In the end, however, the substance of the committee's recommendation was adopted by the Con- ference ; that seeming the best and most practicable conclusion to come to under the circumstances. 5. Another question of manifest interest was, the appointment of officers and editors to the institutions and periodicals in connection with the Conference. These numerous offices had to bo filled up ; but the appointments to them w^re purposely and professedly delayed, until it should be seen how the votes were given on leading public questions ; the different parties in the assembly resolving, so far as they could, to place in those offices ministers with views similar to their own. Several attempts were made to hasten such appointments, and to fix early dates on which they should be made ; but the attempts did not succeed ; and delay was avowed on the ground I have stated. On gre.iU questions the votes are taken singly, in " Ayes " and " Noes ;" so that every man's vote may be publicly known and accurately recorded. In the end, nearly all the editors of newspapers and Conference periodicals were changed, in order that the most decided anti- slavery sentiments might be put forth on behalf of the Conference. This great and sweeping change of officers, however. Is not deemed very notable here, reappoint- ments not being common. 6. But the great absorbing question^ !.s you will anticipate, was that of Shivery. The pariiijular question In relation to it, as presented to the Conference in memorials, »&c., was, whether the rule of membership should be made to exclude all slaveholders. The rules, 4 \ \ Ml iy^|||flt"R» i 248 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLia as they now stand, exclude all slaveholders not only from the ministry, but from every office in Methodism. The rules also, by directions and injunctions, discoun- tenance and condemn slavery, as an evil before God and man. But, as the civil government allows slavery, and, in some instances, forbids emancipation, it was found impracticable, without making a man a rebel against civil government, to carry out a rule against slavehold- ing membership. Such a rule has not, therefore, been enforced. This has dissatisfied many, especially in the northern and north-eastern states, which are farthest removed from the life and scene of slavery ; and they have sought to have such a rule introduced into the " discipline." The bishops, as before observed, had sub- mitted the recommendation of the dissatisfied party to the Annual Conferences, who had not passed it by sufficient majorities. Yet, the parties recommending it resolved to press their proposal on the General Con- ference, that it might go from thence to the Annual Conferences again. This produced strong excitement, and drew forth memorials and counter-memorials, which the committee on slavery had to report upon. A majo- rity of the committee proposed resolutions for the Con- ference to exclude slaveholders from church-member- ship. To this a minority of the committee objected, and drawing up their objections, presented them to the Conference for its consideration. They stated decidedly, and as a fact beyond contra- diction, that parties, not a few, held slaves left to them with the benevolent purpose of keeping the negroes from cruel usage by irreligious owners ; and with the direction to emancipate these bondsmen as soon as practicable, and as soon as they could be provided for. i- it )LIS. not only jthodism. discoun- ! God and rery, and, 7na found A against slavehold- fore, been illy in the e farthest and they 1 into the L, had sub- d party to sed it by nending it leral Con- le Annual xcitement, •ials, which A majo- )r the Con- h-meraber- 3 objected, ;hem to the md contra- eft to them he negroes id with the as soon as rovided for. THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 249 And on this ground (seeing that there is a specific prohibition, in the " discipline," of the purchase or sale of slaves, by Methodists) the minority object to exclude all slaveholders from church-membership. They also declare that such a rule would be likely to break ur> the churches on the southern border, and on slaveholding territory; for, while there are few slaveholders who would themselves be affected by it, they would be likely to prohibit the attendance on religious services of the slave members, who are numerous, and who would thus be deprived, in their bondage, of all the instructions of religion. And further, they object on the ground that they originally separated from the slaveholding churches of the South without such a condition of membership ; and that now, when they must be separated from both sections if such a rule were enacted, it is not kind or just to impose it. They state that the " discipline," as it is, has worked effectually to the discouragement and extirpation of slavery; that with it the Methodist Episcopal Church is known to be an Anti- Slavery Church ; and that the rule proposed would retard, in its working, the object professed to be sought by all — the extirpation of slavery. On these grounds, and with the evidently stroi g plea that it is at present unconstitutional to includ*. such a rule in the "disci- pline," since it has not passed, as required, three-fourths of the Annual Conferences, the minority of the com- mittee reported to the Conference for themselves, and objected to the report and recommendations of the majority. In stating their objections to the new pro- posal, th^ minority declared themselves earnestly opposed to slavery ; and challenged any one to prove that there was a pro-slavery man on the floor of the 250 THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT IXDIAI.aPOLIS. !J Conference, amidst cries from every side of "no, no!" They urged too, that with their adherence to t. ^ Metho- dist Episcopal Church, at the time of the secession, so that they might not partake with the southern churches in the iniquity of slavery, it was unjust to harbour the least suspicion of their honest hostility to it. In proof of the well- working of the " discipline " as it is, they further stated that in the city-station of Baltimore, the capital of the slaveholding State of Maryland, where Methodism is so influential and prosperous, it is not known that there is a single slaveholder in the churon. But, notwithstanding all these objections and pleas, the report of the majority of the committee was pre- sented, and the proposal to change the general rule was carried by 122 votes against 9G. This was a decisive proof of the views held by the ministers at this Conference ; although, as there were not two-thirds of the votes in its favour, and as it has not yet passed three-fo.irths of the Annual Conferences (as the rules require in all essential changes), the new rule will not, at present, be entered into the " discipline." That you may know exactly what the report and recommendations of the majority of the committee on slavery are, I subjoin them to this outline of the proceedings.* There was anotlicr test of anti-slavery feeling, by the proposal to publish and circulate largely aniulix. 'tJSSS&Sj-JSff^iSS^^ L.iPOLIS. f "no, no!" ,0 ti T Metho- secession, so tern churches ) harbour the it. In proof as it is. they Jaltiraore, the ylanfl, where tus, it is not I the churvjn. ns and pleas, ttee was pre- general rule This was a nisters at this two-thirds of ot yet passed (as the rules rule will not, That you jmmendations avery are, I lings.* feeling, by largely an^i- 1 by a much lat they worn 3 judiciously, ry as the all- ic Conference, Thoughtful THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS. 251 men, everywhere, perceive that this is the great problem to be solved in relation to their country ; and Christian men view it as the great and heaven-provoking sin of the land. A. very large portion of our time in America has been spent in conversing upon it. All who have spoken upon it in our hearing have deprecated it as a fearful evil. None have attempted to justify it on moral or scriptural grounds. If, as in some instances, while trav( Uing, we spoke with persons who attempted to defend it, they did so on the ground of expediency — as having to do with an evil which existed, and must be made the best of. But it is due to our Methodist brethren to state that, in no instance, huve they givon any other character to slavery than that of sinfulni-ss and crime. They do, however, make the distinction between the holding of slaves bequeathed, and which the law of the State will not allow to bo emancipated, and the purchase, use, and sale of slaves, for merely mercenary purposes. Such were the principal subjects of business in this General Conference held at Indianapolis, which con- tinued from ^lay 1st to June 4th, 185G. In conclusion it directed that its next quadrennial session (in 18(30) should be held in the City of Buftiilo. J Ji ,0im^. LETTER XV. SLAVERY IN AMERICA. Modified Clinracter of Slavery in Towns — Enormity of its Evils in llic South, and on the I'lantntioiis — Its Corrupting Influences hoth on the Families ol' Slaveholders and on the SI cs — Sopliisni, that Slaves are " Happy and Contented," exposed, and also the assertion that their Con- dition is Analogous to that of tlie fjnglish Operative — Nntioaally IMsor- ganisiutr tendeneies of Slavery — Hopes for its Extermination from exist- ing Agencies ; and Conlideuce that it will be brought to an End, founded on the Divine Charaeter. I HAVE rcpoaiedly alluded, in my former letters, to tlio subject of Slavery in America, us viewed hy us in our passage through Slave States on our way to this city ; as it has been regarded by the Methodist Church from the beginning, and in its progress ; and as presented for consideration at the General Conference, liut it is far too serious a subject to be passed over with inci- dental notices. No doubt, slavery will bo found vital, in its final issues, both to the States themselves and to the churches within them. I have given the most wakeful and earnest attention to this subject which circumstances would idlow ; have not only had frequent conversations upon it, and read authentic books and documents concerning it, but have made careful in- quiries of persons fully acquainted with it ; and now, before leaving Indianapolis, I dcAote a letter to Slavery, . .^jfasi ■.a»5ji»,---ji!i»»v.-. ^.^^ -T vtni^a- SLAVERY IN AMERICA. 253 I its Evils in ihe cnces 1)oth on the II, that Slaves are ion that tlu'ir Cou- — Nationally Disor- iimtioii from exist- to an End, fomukd letters, to tho bj' us ill our to this city ; Church from as presented nice. But it is ver with inci- be loiuid vitiil, msolvcs and to ven the most subject wliieh y had frequent tic books and 1(> careful in- it ; and now, tter to Slavery, in which I shall give reliable information, and, what I believe I may term, a matured judgment concerning it. I have described what we noticed of slave-life and occupation in our journey along the borders of Vir- ginia and Maryland ; but it must be remembered that we have seen it only in its domestic character. As we passed through Maryland, and skirted A'^irginiu, here and there we saw, as previously stated, the poor dis- pirited Africans toiling wearily in the field, or lazily at the edge of the forest. But slave-life even at the road-side, as well as in cities and in the slave-owner's house, is different to slave-life in cotton-fields, or in sugar and tobacco plantations, where hard task-work has to be performed in gangs, and under tho lash of slave-drivers. This seems to me to be a distinction very necessary to be made when considering and dis- cussing the subject of American slavery ; for, whenever I have conversed with an advocate or apologist for it, I have invariably found that he spoke of it under its mildest aspect, as the " domestic institution." Though by far the greater number of slaves in the States are not to be found lodged and boarded in their raastei'S* warm houses, and employed on flower-gardens as ordi- nary servants ; but are misei ably and indecently crowded together, as mere cattle, in log-huts, and arc driven forth to daily task-woik under the merciless whip. Of th(^ real and deeply '.vretched condition of the great maj . ity of slaves, 1 have learned much from particular inquiries made in the States, from public itions issued on tho ground, and from ministers and friends who have most carefully informed themselves, by per- r,onul investigations, on what is passing in the South. And after due inquiry and consideration, I have come 254 SLAVERY IN AMERICA. to the painful conclusion ^liat American slavery, in the Southern States, is as wicked, cruel, and offensive, in its character and operations, as it has been reported to us in England. I say distinctly, in %e Southcni States ; — fur it must never be forgotten that the Northern States liave resolutely separated themselyes from this evil. ] liilf the states of the Unicm have done this. All the ^Methodist churches of the Korth, in those States, and svtine within the borders of Slave States have done it ; mid that at considerable sacrifice, as before related. The churches of Baltimore, luancd in a former letter, have done this. TJiercfore, it is unjust, inconsiderately and cruelly unjust, to class all the States and Chu' to- gether, as slave-holding, or alike involved in tJ^^- 5.^. < of Slavery. There are not more earnest, zealous, yd deter- mined oppciients of Slavery anywliere, than aie to be found in the Northern States and Churches of America ; and some of the border-men Avho travelled with us in our last journey were determined Abolitionists. But in the South, and on the plantations, the evil of Slaverv exists in its "'rosscst and most revoltinsr forms. It is there not merely tolerated for expediency ; but legalized, uiaiiitainod, and guarded, as if it were the most just and sacred of inslitutions. By some violent upholders it is ranked with religion itself; for they inscribe upon their placards and banners, "Gonand Si.avkkyI" By perversions of Holy Scripture, which nowhere, if propeily interpreted, favours Slavery, and in direct contradiction oi their own declaration of Inde- pendein'(\ upon which i)\e constitution of the Union is based, and which positively and lUKHpii vocally de- dares that "all men are created equal, and are endowi'd with the inalienable rights of life, liberty, and the of SLAVERY IN AMERICA. 25S ivery, in the ■ensive, in its jported to us ?n( States ; — I'tlicrn States m this evil. his. All the e States, and lave done it ; related. The r letter, have iderately and Chn- lo- in tji'^' o". ' f^f (US, irl deter- lan aio to be s of America ; ed with us in mists. us, the evil of volting forms, jediency; but it were the y' some violent fself; for they s, "God and •ipture, which Shivery, and adon of Inde- of the Union ui vocally dc- d are endowinl rly, and the pursuit of happiness," — the men of the South uphold and promote this atrocious system against the remon- strances of their northern brethren, and against the cry of the civilized world. Even in Columbia, the snuill district surrendered by Maryland and Virginia to tUo sole control and government of Congress, Slavery existw ; and in Washington itself, the renowned logihlutivo capital of the United States, there o^'e, as already noted, slave-marts, auction-blocks, and slave-prisons, undoi* the control and use of liccmccl slave-dealers. Indeed, in some of its aspects, the Slavery of the Southern States of America is not only one of the most glaringly inconsistent evils in existence ; but it is, in some of its legalised conditions of deprivation and cruelty, without example or parallel in the hi,story gf the world. A^ ^Ir. Wesley wrote of it only four days before his death — it is " the vilest evil tliat ever saw the sini." In a countrj'' which has voiunlarily asMO* ciated itself with other powers to repress and tcrminuto tlic African slave-trade, not only are the existing Nlavew rtitained, but large numbers of slaves are raised and bred for the nuirket yearly. The negro mother huH no claim to her own child. V<\ law it belongs to her owner, with all the children that she and hur daugh- ters may have born to them, for ever. This is the ox- press law of the Slave States — that the child hIiuU follow the condition of its mother. And this unnatural and oppressive law lends to uutu of the most revolting cruelty and wickedness. It not only encourages the most brutish profligacy towards Iho females kept on tlie slave-breeding estates, — and tliiit as soon as there is any chance of shive-bearing, — but it makes fathers the salesmen of their own children ; uml ' \ 1 256 SLAVERY IN AMERICA, i it brings upon their descendants, however white and far removed from the original negro, through suc- cessive generations, the most painful and degrading circumstances. A considerable proportion of the co- loured slaves are the fruit of int 'course with white owners, owners' sons, and slave-drivers. So that some of the slaves are sold by their own fathers ; and if, in rare instances, slaves are redeemed, either by others or themselves, they have not unfrequently to be purchased from their own fathers. Yea, fathers, under this ini- quitous law, prostitute to the most revolting purposes their own children. And sometimes, as I learn from cases related to me, the r>)ost ruinous and degrading consccpiences will fall upon the acknowledged wives and children of slaveholders through the operation of this law. Delay in ihe act of emancipation (where it is allowed) towards the wife selected and obtained for her beauty and whiteness, may, by the sudden death or bankruptcy of the husband and father, be followed by the sale of his indulged wife and accomplished daughters ; and these, who never dreamed of their slavery, must then be exposed in the public auction mart, and sold to hard-hearted and licentious slave- dealers — again, severe truth compels me to repeat — for the most degrading purposes. The cruelties, too, inflicted by law upon the slaves arc enormous and hoi'rible. Not onlj' are they deprived of their natural, social, and civil rights, — robbed of self-ownership, — denied marriage contracts, family en- joyments, intellectual culture, and complaint or redress in a court of justice ; but they are unsparingly separated from husband, wife, child, brother, sister — if they may use such terms — sold to merciless slave-dealers, who SLAVERY IN AMERICA. 257 ' white and irough 8UC- . degrading of the co- with white )0 that some s ; and if, in by others or 36 purchased ior this ini- ing purposes [ learn from d degrading ed wives and ■ation of this (where it is ained for her len death or be followed accomplished lied of their lublic auction jutious slave- ;o repeat — for on the slaves they deprived — robbed of ts, family en- iint or redress gly separated -if they may -dealers, who brand them, chain tliem, lodge them in dungeons, then drive them forth in gangs barefooted and almost naked, — 'nen rnd women together, — over hard rough roads and through tangled forests, to other and distant States, to be sold and branded again ; and then to be driven forth into the field for daily labour under the cow-hide lash, and to be exposed to the gloating licentiousness of hired slave-drivers. I could give abundant proof of all this, in quotations from legal documents, advertised auction sales, and published descriptions of actual occur- rences, which none can dispute. I do not suppose that all slaveholders maltreat their slaves. Some of them, I would fain believe, for the honour of humanity, are benevolent men, sorrowing over their heritages of human beings, of which, under the laws of the States to which they belong, they know not how to rid themselves. And such are kind and merciful to their slaves. But I write of the system, of what it legalises and allows, and how by many it is used. And, in cases of merciful and kind treatment by owners, death or reverse of temporal circumstances may throw the best of slaves, accustomed to mild and con- siderate conduct, suddenly into the most painful and deeply degrading circumstances. The Hev. James B. Finloy, in his " Sketches of Western Methodism," relates a case which occurred in Virginia, and most aff'eetingly proves wliat I have just said ; while, at the same time, it exliibits the meek and furgiving endurance of wrongs by Christian slaves, and the abundant mercy of God to the vilest sinners wlien they repent and turn to Ilim. . The author of these sketches relates, that in the State of Virginia there lived a wealthy and iutluential planter, who owned a large number of slaves. In his circum- til IIIIIPMmwx, 258 SLAVERY IN AMERICA. he kind and indulj ight •J mm^ Ihbih^ i^rai ni I; vBi 1 Hi i^mi liiHI ■h ?! ffllnv ;, ittMii stances, for them the means of mental and moral culture. A raethodist minister was invited by him to preach on his plantation, and was heard by himself, liis family, and his slaves. The word reached their hearts, and on sub- sequent visits, the preacher collected into a churcli tiere, the master, the mistress, and many of the negroes. One of these negroes, whose name was Cufk, became eminent for his devotedness to (Jhrint, and for the exemplification of Christian graces amojig his brethren. Being a man of superior intelligence, ho was selected to conduct religious services in the absence of the minister ; and in these he was W(mt to pour fortli pi'ayers to God from a full heart, and to speak witli words ihat burned into the very depths of the souls of the (^ongrcgalious. Both white and black hearers trembled and wept under the power with which he prayed ami spoke before them. But amidst the fearful contingencies of shivery, even in its most alleviated circumstances, Cuff, tli rough the death of his master fell into the possession of a spend- thrift son, Avho had soon to sell him by public auction for the benefit of clamorous creditors, lie was pui'-hased by an infidel, newly settled iu life, and whose ynt owner his iiiul incpiired iiiU'ter to be •an, that there )nu\)U' to the ly II nd attend iii(U'l, " I will with a heavy SLAVERY IN AMERICA. 259 heart left his old homestead, and his brethren in bond- age with whom he had so happily associated for worship. At tl --lose of the first day's appointed labour, he went in seare : of a place for private prayer, which he found in a thicket of young trees near to his master's garden, and where he knelt and poured forth his evening cries to heaven. While thus engaged, he was overheard by his youthful mistress, \7ho was walking in the garden ; and when she heard him j: ay not only for himself, but also for his new " massa" and his new " misse," the deep fountain of her heart was broken up, and she wept greatly. On the ensuingr Sabbath Cuff went some miles to the 1 Methodist meeting, ret rning in the evening, that he might be ready in time the next morning for his labour in the field. On Monday morning his master asked him where he had been on the Sunday, when, not knowing the infidel character of his owner, he replied, " I have been to meetin, massa ; and bless de Lord it was a good time!" — "Cuff," said his master, with an angry voice, " you must quit praying ; I will have none of it about this place." — " Massa," said Cuff, " I will do anything you tell n > dat I can do ; but I must pray. My Massa in he: command me to do so." — "But you shall quit it,' said the master, "and you shall pnmiise now to do so, or I will whip you." — "I cannot do one nor de oder, massa," said the slave. — " Then follow mo, j'ou obstinate negro," said the master, inflamed with passion, " and we will sec whoso autho- rity is to be obeyed." The slave was led f'or'+i- tripped of the few tattered garments that covered his person, was tied to a tree, when the infidel master, full of anger, inflicted twentj'- five heavy strokns of the covvhide lash ujwn him with his own hands. " Now, Cuff," said the master, " will you 11 ii I I ! i^ 2G0 SLAVERY IN AMERICA. .<: quit praying ?" — " No, -"(ssa," said the bleeding slave ; "I will pray to Jesus p^ l-^g as I live." He gave liini twenty-five lashes more, and that with terrible severity. " Now," said the monster of cruelty, " you will quit praying, wont your*" — "No, massa," was the meek slave's reply; "me will pray while me live." On hearing this tlie master flew upon his victim with the utmost fury, and he continued to ply the bloody weapon upon the mangled flesh until, from sheer exhaustion, he could strike no longer. " Now, you infernal nigger, will you eease praying?" asked the master. — "No, massa," answered the bound and bleeding slave; "you may kill me, but I must pray." — " Then you shall bo whipped as much as this every time you pray or go to the meeting." The slave was unbound from the tree ; he gathered up his clothes, crawled to his gloomy Init, and when he had reached it he was heard to sing within it in a plaintive voice, — " My siiirci'inu; time will soon be o'er, 'I'Ik'H shall I siut if this assertion be true, why do so many of the slaves run away ? what mean the numerous public advertisements in the newspapers for runaway slaves, describing so very particularly their stature, weals, maims, and branded murks ? what mean the laws against education of slaves, u IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) V' fe % f/. 1.0 I.I 11.25 1^ IM 1^ IIIIIIO itt 1.4 11.6 ^ •/f' /} ^;. c^ > '> > V / '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 73 WIST MAIN STRUT WnSTIR.N.Y )4sao (716) 872-4503 262 SLAVERY IX AMERICA. coloured assemblies, and harbouring of runaway negroes P what mean the pronged collar, the chain, the stocks, and the notorious "Fugitive Law?" and what mean the slave-owners' tormenting fears of risings and insurrec- tions among the negroes P And if any of them be happy and contented under this heavy pressure of degradation, what does it prove P Not chat Slavery is just and good, but tlat, in this instance, it has completed its destructive work, and crushed down human nature into brutality. The chained dog may frisk before his master, and not repine ; and when the spirit of manhood has been struck down and extinguished by the lash and brutal insults, then, and not till then, can man be happy and content in a state of slavery. To be deprived of all rights — to hold no place in civil or social life — to see his wife and daughters indecently outraged, and reduced to unbridled prostitution — to s^^e his children sold away from him into hopeless bondage — to lie bleeding and writhing Tinder the lash, — and yet be " happy and content ! " Is not such talk madness ? And what parallel can justly be instituted between the slaves in the Southern States of America and Eng- lish operatives P Are the operatives of England raised and bred for sale in the public market ? Are they de- prived of all ownership in themselves, and sold body and soul, flesh and spirit, as mere goods and chattels, to the proprietorship of others P Are they deprived of home and family, and of civil protection P Are they exposed to the whip P Are their wives and daughters exposed to the unbridled licentiousness of masters and masters' sons P Are English operatives liable to be marched off* in chain-gangs to other counties than those in which they liveP Cannot they ciiange their employers for ■ >^^L_i:4^-Vj*.£t..i / SLAVERY IN AMERICA. 263 r better wages when these are oflfered ? Does not the law of England protect them as safely, with their families, in their homes, from insult and injury as it does the titled dweller in a castle or mansion ? Where, then, is the likeness between the case of the American slave and the condition of the English operative ? There is none ; and no attempt to prove that there is will ever be made, except in sheer ignorance, or from the spirit of wilful misrepresentation. The effects of this unnatural and cruel system are as great as we, in England, so often heard that they were. It is enormously destructive of slave life, as well-authen- ticated statistics show. It corrupts the moral and spiritual life and nature of the slaves, while it destroys their physical life ; for the oppressed negro hears vice termed virtue, and virtue termed vice ; sees their proper rewards and penalties reversed ; and becomes often help- lessly blinded in his distinction of right and wrong. It degrades all residents in the States who belong to the negro race, or who are the least tinged with African blood. It deprives them of position and status in society, even though free, and living in Free States, by creating prejudice against them, which will not allow them to sit and eat, or to ride in a railway- car, in the company of the whites. It not only drives them into the North, where the coLlor climate is uncon- genial to the African constitution, but it pursues them with menacing laws and restrictions, that not only prevent their citizenship, but security. In some of the Free States there are what are called " Black Laws," which prohibit their residence altogether ; and in some of the Slave States free negroes remaiuing so many days within them are to be seized, and sold into slavery fur ever ; indeed, in not a few instances, it seizes the 264 SLAVERY IN AMERICA. : free negro under pretence of guspioion that he is a run- away, and if he happens not to huve his manuinissiou papers upon him, locks him up in prison, advertises hira as to he sold for his expenacg ut such a time, and thus kidnaps and enslaves him who had previously purchased his freedom, or Avas born free. It is affirmed that not less than thirty free negroes Wire thus kidnapped in the free city of Philadelphia within the years 1825 and 1826, and were sold into slavery. This evil system also domoruliflos slaveholders and their families — sensualising huMbunds and sons, and rendering hard-hearted and cruel even females and little children. A white mother will have her offending negro slave laid down and whipped before her eyes; and even the young child in the arras of the nurse ia promised, as a toy from the market or the fair, a whip, with which to flog the young negro. It corrupts the very seat of legislative government ; renders its laws a dead letter; and seeks to make a State tluit would be free — like Kansas — a Slave State against its will. It impoverishes the country, so tht ^ loeulities where it exists are a full century behiu ^ other piirts of the Union in the increase of the free population and in scientific improve- ment. It induces slovenly culture of the soil by negroes, who will not do anything nmre than they are forced to perform. It produces idlonesH, WfiKtofulness, and reck- lessness of life both among the Hliiveholdors and their slaves. It foments disputes, insolenoe, duels, and blood- shed between the men of the Free States and those of the Slave States ; strikes down u wniutor in the Hall of Congress (as in the caso of Sumner) for his speech against it; and executes "Lynch Law** upon Aboli- tionists, or even suspected AbolitioniHts. Moreover, this vile system diHorguniscB the States, SLAVERY IN AMERICA. 265 Jtates, and, in the event of an invasive war, would render them a more easy conquest. It provides increasing internal enemies in the slaves, who are multiplying so quickly, and are now proportionately so numerous, that in a century more, at the same rate of increase, they will out-number all the white people in the States put together. With such an army of revenge- ful negroes within her own borders, how appalling would the consequences be in bloodshed, if any Euro- pean power were to land on the southern shores, and give arms to the slaves ! Indeed, it fills this continent with suspicion and terror, so that zealous Abolitionists and thoughtful men of the Free States devise colonisa- tion plans which shall remove the increasing and dan- gerous Africans away from America to their own country. It is, in Mr. Wesley's words, " an execrable sum of all villanies;" it is a complicated evil of injus- tice, cruelty, licentiousness, and murder, which, unless it La abandoned, will assuredly avenge itself upon its own supporters, and will bring down upon them de- struction and shame before the gazing world. There is a God who judgeth in the earth ; and He who avenged Joseph's bondage in Egypt upon them who sold him for twenty pieces of silver, so that they acknow- ledged ill the dungeon the connection of their sin and its punishment, and said, " We are vpiily guilty con- cerning our brother, in that we saw the anguish of his soul, when he besought us, and wo would not hear ; there- fore is this distress come upon us." Ho who heard the cry of His people under thoii* hard taskmasters, when wasted by the heat of the furnace, and avenged their wrongs upon Pharaoh and his host in the lied Sea— He who has already avenged Slavery upon Spain and Portugal, by which powers the slave-trade on the American cou- .J (■ 266 SLAVERY IN AMERICA. tinent was commenced in 1503, — will arise out of Hia rest, and baring the red arm of His vengeance, will judge the oppressor, and overthrow his power. As one has justly remarked, " no attribute of God is on the side of slaveholders;" and this is a most fearful con- sideration, which ought to make them tremble, and abandon their foul iniquity without delay. But you naturally inquire if there be no hope and prospect of the removal from the States of this mon- strous and destructive evil. I believe there is. I be- lieve this, because Right is stronger than Might in the long run; I believe this from the signs and circum- stances favourable to emancipation which now most unmistakeably begin to appear. Slavery recedes farther and farther South, and, if it continues to retire, it must eventually pass from the land, and leave America free from it. The anti-slavery principles are now widely diffused, not only in the Free Slates, but in the Slave States ; so that many slaveholders really desire general emancipation, and though not able to act openly, yet they covertly send both money and information to the Abolitionists, and declare they wish success to the cause of emancipation. Every true-hearted woman who cares for the purity of her husband and her sons must abhor Slavery, and inwardly desire its removal. Christianity, as well as the law of Moses, condemns Slavery both by its spirit and direct precepts, and must, by its pervading power and influence, remove Slavery from this country us it has banished Slavery from Christian Europe. The churches are astir for its removal, and have already effected n.uch that is important as a preparation. The American churches are not " the Bulwark of Slavery," as they have been tauntingly declared to be. How can SLAVERY IN AMERICA. 267 The jr," as o\v can they be bo, unless Christ's own kingdom be divided against itself? I will not say they have at all times proved themselves as firm to endure suiferings for the cause of freedom as they ought to have done — for even martyrdom in such a cause would have been honourable. Undoubtedly a time-serving expediency has, in some instances, swayed them in their decisions and in their conduct. But with this admission, it may be confi- dently affirmed, that the Quakers, the Baptists, the Presbyterians, and the Episcopalian Churches, have, in various ways, and to no inconsiderable extent, rebuked and withstood the evil. The Methodist Episcopal Church has from the begin- ning condemned and contended against Slavery. Mr. Wesley did, as his letters to America show. Dr. Coke, and Francis Asbury, and others of that period ylso eurnestly testified against it. The early minutes ex- pressly forbid any member of the Methodist Church " buying and selling of men, women, and children with an intention to enslave them." The later minutes, before noted, declare, "we are as much as ever con- vinced of the great evil of Slavery;" and expressly provide that "no slaveholder shall hold any office in the Methodist Church whSi-e the law of the States will allow of emancipation." And for this principle the Northern churches, as I have repeatedly intimated, became separated from the Southern, and endured the great secession of 1844. The religious interests of the enslaved and coloured, population have, from the very foundation and first organisation of Methodism in America, been cured for and sought. In the fii'st published minutes I find that, at that period, one fourth of the members returned were of coloured people. In. the year of Mr. Wesley's death 268 SLAVERY IN AMERICA. / there were 12,000 coloured Methodist members in the States. At the time of the separation of the Northern and Southern churches, in 1844, there were more than 160 000 coloured members, and there are more than 200,000 now in both sections. The Methodist Epis- copal Church, South, while in error on the public question of Slavery, is nevertheless labouring most strenuously and successfully for the moral and religious instruction of the slaves; and is, undoubtedly, doing more for them, morally and religiously, than any other agency whatever. In addition to its regular ministry and numerous schools, for both the white and coloured people, it has not less than 145 missionaries who are exclusively devoted to their interests, and who, amidst the destructive malaria of river swamps, and the con- suming heat of rice and cotton-fields, are seeking the spiritual welfare of the negroes in bondage, and of their children. Both in the North and in the South, there are African churches, African schools, African preachers and class -leaders, African deacons and missionaries; and thus American Methodism, in its two sections, is diffusing Christian principles among the white and the coloured population — among the masters and their slaves, and, with the labours of the other churches of Christ in the States, must not only mitigate the evils of Slavery while it exists, but, if the Church be faithful to truth, most assuredly will eventually exterminate it. What believer in Christ can doubt this when he remembers that there are the accumulated prayers and supplications to be answered of God's servants through successive years and generations for this great and glorious object ? How many a fervent and acceptable prayer has ascended into the ear of the Lord of Sabaoth from poor, overwrought, whipped, and imprisoned H ii^piiiJMiyiMl,. ■r-rr -m'\ '/,, .ffusing loured and, in the ilavery trutli, SLAVERY IN AMERICA. 269 negroes ? How many, liko " Uncle Tom " in Mrs. Stowe's story (so full of real genius as well as philan- thropy), have cried to God in their bondage and meek suffering ? How many have culled upon Him from the cabin and the bush, from the prayer-meeting t.ud the sanctuary ? How many white ministers and their people have prayed that the oppressed may go free ! And shall not these prayers bo remembered by the Eternal? Are they lost or forgotten by him? Like the prayers and alms of Cornelius, they are gone up for a memorial before God, and shall yet be answered. Some of these prayers are on record, and may be read and repeated until the desires expressed in them shall be fulfilled. The following is Mr. "Wesley's own prayer, recorded at the conclusion of his " Thoughts on Slavery," in 1774 :— " thou God of love, thou who art loving to every man, and whose mercy is over all thy works — thou who art the father of the spirits of all flesh, and who art rich in mercy unto all — thou who liust mingled of one blood all the nations upon earth, — have compassion upon out- casts of men, who are trodden down ns dung upon the earth. Arise, and help these tha' *;ave no helper, whose blood is spilt upon the ground ii':e water ! Are not these also the work of thine own hands, the purchase of thy Son's blood ? Stir thoni up to cry unto thee in the land of their captivity, and lot their complaint come up before thee ; let it enter into thy curs ! make even those who lead them away captive to pity them, and turn their captivity as the rivers in the south. burst thou all their chains asunder, more especially the chains of their sins ! Thou Saviour of all, muko them free, that they may be free indeed. i V- '^ii'A;'* 270 ^ SLAVERY IN AMERICA. ' The servile progeny of Ham Seize as the purchase of thy blood. Let oil the heathens know thy name : From idols to the living God The dark Americans convert, And shine in every pagan heart.' " This prayer shall be answered : yea, and I cannot but think that, out of the numerous and efficient churches of the coloured race in this Western continent, shall go forth ministers and missionaries to their own people across the seas, and bring thousands of Africa's sons and daughters on their own native soil, into the spiritual kingdom of the Redeemer. Some of the negro members of the Baptist, Presbyterian, and Protestant, as well as of the Methodist churches in this land, are being edu- cated and prepared for important Christian services. Some of the negro local preachers are intelligent and zealous labourers in the vineyard of the Lord; and suited as they are in constitution, sympathies, character, and modes of thought, to this missionary work to the African heathen, I cannot but think that thev will be called and sent forth to engage in it. Then shall Africa's real compensation for Slavery appear. Not in pounds or dollars — for what compensation can money afford for the heavy and accumulated wrongs inflicted upon so many millions of her sons and daughters for so many generations? — but in the spread of Messiah's kingdom over the African continent ; in the reception, by its millions yet to be born, of the Gospel — the good news of Christ's salvation, which " healeth the broken in heart, and bindeth up their wounds ; " in the real and everlasting enfranchisement of the children of Ham — for, when " the Son shall make them free, they shall be free indeed." race: LETTER XVI. THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. Peculiar Look of the Race — Mongolian Descent — Noble Original Qualities — ^Hospitality and Bravery — Degraded State of Woman — Rapidly de- creasing number of Red Men — Christian Labourers among them — John Stewart, the Negro — Father Finley— Indian Converts and Prea«hers — Remarkable Occurrence among the " Flat Head " Indians — Banishment of the Red Race to the Far West — Melancholy Prospect of their Extinction. I vsl There is a melancholy interest attached to the aboriginal inhabitants of this country, as an ill-fated and declining race ; and a thoughtful visitor can scarcely fail to feel a craving for reliable information concerning them. As for what the race was in the past, there are no crumbling monuments of antiquity, no fallen arches or broken columns to attest it, or to furnish hints for the spirit of theory : one sole monument remains — the living ruin of a perishing nation. I have made diligent inquiries concerning the Indians of missionaries who have been much among them, and have studied their character and closely observed their manners and customs, being, meanwhile, devoted to their interests both for this world and the world to come. Thus, though I may not have much to communicate that will be new, yet my state- ments respecting them, and more especially of the work of God among their wasting tribes, will be authentic. ^ %^ ^ J i V. % ■i 273 THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. Each specimen of the aboriginal race that I have seen in America resembles the Indian missionary visitors we have seen in England. There is the same sombre coun- tenance, the same inwardly brooding look, that seems to tell of the sense of past and present wrong, and of a proud grief deeply seated, and so absorbing as to render the subject of it almost insensible of what is passing externally. Some observers attribute the red-man's peculiar look to the hardness and inflexibility of his features from long training, rather than to his sense of injuries received from the white obtruders upon his rightful domain ; and, perhaps, it may be attributable to both these causes. His skin is not sufficiently trans- parent to allow the flush of feeling to mantle in his face, or to deepen his colour, and he would seem to have been trained to conceal rather than exhibit the working of his passions. Yet, with his stolid and immovable features, there are deeply indented lines which tell of inward contest ; that brooding, melancholy eye is often kindled into defiant fierceness, and there is a proud bearing in the red-man's upright form which seems to proclaim that he is conscious of descent from a free and noble ancestry. The theory that the North American Indians are the descendants of the lost tribes of Israel finds no credit with the missionaries who have been among them, and become best aeij[uainted with their language and cus- toms. There are some Indian words which have some resemblance to their synonyms in Hebrew, and a few Indian rites resemble the Jewish. But these scattered resemblances, it is well known, are found among many tribes where they would not be expected — such as the Tartars, for instance. The most supportable theory. THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 273 undoubtedly, is that the Indians are of Mongolian origin, and came from Asia across the narrow sea which we now call " Behring's Strait." Come, however, from wherever they might, at the beginning, there seems to be no doubt of the common origin of all the remnant tribes of the North American Indians. Some differences exist in their language and in their customs, but none of these are so essential as to lead to the inference that all the red-men are not derived from one stock. When first visited by Eu- ropeans, they were scattered in various, and, for the most part, mutually hostile, tribes over the continent, and numbered, it is supposed, fifteen or sixteen mil- lions. They were not when first discover-. I " barba- rous savages," in the literal sense of the phrase, but rather wild, roving men with an indomitable love of liberty ; and however fierce and revengeful towards each other hostile tribes might be, all were kind and friendly towards the white man when he first ap- proached them. Afterwards, when they felt themselves wronged and injured, defrauded out of their beloved hunting-grounds, and left with mere trinkets instead, they became exasperated and revengeful. When driven cruelly away from their own lands, and from the graves of their fathers, they turned upon their murder- ous pursuers, and fought for their liberty and lives like stags at bay. And when unable to compete with their enemy and with his fire-weapons in the open field, they crouched in the thicket, and shot him with the poisoned arrow as he passed along upon the " Indian track." It was not till goaded and driven to violence and bloodshed, by injury and bloodshed, that the red-man showed himself to be fierce and revengeful. Columbus T ■^ .11 ■-.^ ii 274 THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. wrote home to his royal patrons concerning one of these aboriginal races : — " I swear to your majesties that there is not a better people in the world than these, — more affectionate, affable, and mild. They love their neighbours as themselves, and they always speak smilingly." And their first admission of white men to their country seems to have been from motives of com- passion and hospitality, as the mournful chief declared to General Knox, in the city of New York, when inter- rogated on the reason for his dejected and sorrowful countenance amidst such gay and stirring scenes. " I will tell you, brother," said the chief to the general, " what makes me look sorrowful. I have been looking at your beautiful city — your great waters full of ships — your fine country, and I see how prosperous you all are. But then I could not help thinking that this fine country was once ours. Our ancestors lived here. They enjoyed it as their own in peace. It was the gift of the Great Spirit to them and to their children. At last white men came in a great canoe, they only asked to let them tie it to a tree, lest the water should carry it away. AVe consented. They then said, some of their people were sick, and they asked permission to land them, and put them under the shade of the trees. Tho ice came, and they could not go away. They then begged a piece of land to build wigwuvns for the win- ter. We granted it to them. They then asked corn to keep them from starving. "We furnished it out of our scanty supply. They promised to go away when tho ice melted. When this happened, instead of goin"- away as tlicy had promised, they pointed to tho big guns round the wigwams, and they siiid, * We shall stay here.' Afterwards came more. They brought -^^^ ■•.^mf-^ THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 175 bin ; and when church was out we all weut to a place where they sold rum anu whis- key, got drunk, and went home drunk. He would tell us we must not get diunk ; but he would drink himself, and frolic and dance on the Sabbath. We counted our beads, and kept our crosses about our necks, or under our pillows, and would sometimes pray to the Virgiu Mary. But we were all aa we were before. It made no change in us, and I began to think it was not as good as the religion of our fathers ; for they taught us to be good men and women, to worship the Great Spirit, and to abstain from evil. Soon after the Seueca Prophet came to our nation, and he told us that he had found the right way ; that he had a revelation, and had seen and talked with an angel, and was directed to teach all the Indians ; that they must quit drinking, and must take up their old Indian religion, and offer their constant sacrifices, as their fathers had done, which had been neglected too much ; and, on account of this, the Great Spirit had forsaken them : but if they would come back and follow him, that he would yet drive the white man back to his native home. We all followed him till we saw he went crooked, and did not do himself what he taught us to do. Then we followed him no more, but returned to our old course. Some time afterwai-ds came the Shawnee Prophet, the brother of Teeumsch, and he tolJ us that a great many years ago there lived a prophet that had foretold the present state of the Indians, that they would be scattered and driven from their homes; but that the Great Spirit had said that he would make them stand on their feet again, and would drive the white man back over the waters, and give them their own country ; that he had seen an angel, aud he told him that all the Indians must quit drinking, and all turn to their old ways that their grandfathers had followed, and unite and aid to drive the white from our country. Many believed and followed him. But I got tired, and thought it was the best for me to keep on in the old way, and so we continued. Then the war came on, and we all weut to drinking and lighting. When the war was over, we were a nation of drunkards, and so wicked that the chiefs thought we must try and get up our old religion of feasting and dancing. We did our best to get our people to quit drinking. But while we were trying to reform, God sent a coloured man, named Stewart, to us with the good book. He began to talk, and .sing, and pray ; but we thought it was all nothing, and many made fun of him because he was a black man. The white traders told us we ought to drive him away, for the white people ■would not let a black man preach for them. We, however, watched his walk, and found that he walked straigiit, and did as he said. At last the word took hold, and many began to listen, and believed it was right, and soon we began to pray, and we found that it was of God. Then others ■.■y THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS, 281 came, and they told us the same things. The work broke oui, and God has done great things for us. I was among the first that took hold, aud I found it was the religion of the heart, and from God. It made my soul happy, and does yet. The school is doing well. Our children are learning to read the good book, and promise fair to make good and usci'ul men. We thank you, our friends, for all the kindness and help you have shown us, and hope you will continue to help us till we can stand alone and walk. We will do oiu" best to spread this religion at home, and send it to all nations." In tlie year following that in which this address was delivered by him, he died triumphantly in the faith of the Lord Jesus Christ. Another of these converted chiefs was named "Mo- NONCUE." He was a very eloquent and effective assistant to the Missionaries sent to the Wyandot tribe. The following is Father Finley's own simple and graphic account of this Christian chief: it will at once show you what he was, both as a gifted and an affectionate man, and as a powerful preacher of the Gospel : — " This renowned chief of the Wyandot nation was about medium in stature, and remarkably symmetrical in form. He was one of the most active men I ever knew, quick in his motions as thought, and fleet as the roe in the chase. As a speaker, he possessed a native eloquence wliich was truly won- derfid. Few could stand before the overwhelming torrent of his eloquence. He was a son of thunder. When inspired with his theme, he would move a large assembly with as nmch ease, and rouse them to as high a state of excitement, as any speaker I ever heard. " There is p peculiarity in Indian eloquence which it is difficult to describe. To form a correct idea of its character, you must be in the hearing and sigbt of the son of the forest ; the tones of his voice and the flash of his eye nmst fall upon you, and you must see the significant movements of his body. As an orator Mononcue was not surpassed by any chieftain. " I will give a specimen or two of tiie eloquence of this gifted son of nature. Imagine yourself, gentle reader, in the depths of the forest, surrounded by hundreds of chiefs and warriors, ail sunk in the dcgnidatiou and darkness of paganism. They have been visited by the missionary, and several converted Indian chiefs. One after another the chiefs rise and address the assembly, but with no effect. The dark scowling infidelity settles on their brows, and the frequent irmtterings of the excited auditors indicate that their speeches >■ 282 THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. are not acceptable, and their doctrines not believed. At length Mononcue rises amidst confusion and disturbance, and ordering silence with a com- manding voice, he addresses them as follows : — " ' When you meet to worship God, and to hear from his word, shnt up your mouths, and open yom* ears to hear what is said. You have been here several days and nights worshipping your Indian god, who has no existence, only in your dark and beclouded minds. You have been burning your doga and venison for him to smell. What kind of god or spirit is he, that can be delighted with the smell of a burnt dog ? Do you suppose the Great God that spread out the heavens, that hung up the sun and moon, and all the stars, to make light ; and spread out this vast world of land and water, and filled it with men and beasts, and everything that swims or flies, is pleased with the smell of your burnt dogs? I tell you to-day, that his great eye is on your hearts, and not on your fires, to see and smell what you are burn- ing. Has your worshipping here these few days made you any better ? Do you feel that you have gotten the victory over one evil ? No I You have not taken the first step to do better, which is to keep this holy day. This day was appointed by God himself a day of rest for all men, and a day on which men are to worship him with pure hearts, and to come before him, that he may examine their hearts, and cast out all their evil. This day is appointed for his ministers to preach to us Jesus, and to teach our dark and cloudy minds, and to bring them to light.' He here spoke of the Saviour, and his dyiug to redeem the world ; that now life and salvation are freely offered to all that will forsake sin and turn to God. He adverted to the judgment-day, and the awfid consequences of being found in sin, and strangers to God. On this subject he was tremendously awful. He burst into tears : he caught the handkerchief from his head, and wiped them from his eyes. Many in the house sat as if they were petrified, while others wept in silence. Many of the females drew their blankets over their faces and wept. 'Awful, awful day to the wicked!' said this thundering minister, 'your faces will look much blacker with their shame aud guilt, than they do now with tiieir paint.' " Mr. Finley also describes the funeral scene of Mo- noncue's aged aunt, who had died peacefully in the Lord, at which the Indian chief poured forth sponta- neously an eloquent lamentation. He states : — " I was sent for to go and bury her. Brother Riley and myself rode there in the night, and early in the morning commenced making the coffin. It was late before we could finish it, and, consequently, late before the fimeral ^X..,.. TUB NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 283 was over. But I think I tliall never forgot that scene. It was between sundown and dark when wo left witli the eorpse. The lowering elouds hung heavily over us, and the virgin uiiow was falling. We entered a deep and lonely wood, lour men currying Iho bier, niid the rest all following in Indian file. When we came to the biirying-ground, the Indians stood wrapped up in their blankets, leaning againxt thu forest trees, in breathless silence, and all bore the aspetit of deiitli. Not o\w word was said while the grave was filling up, but from the dauglitcr iind some of the grandchildren a broken sigh escaped. At length Mouoiicuc broke out in the following strains : — ' Farewell, my old and preeioiw limit, you liave suffered much in this world of sin and sorrow. You set \ih all n good example ; and we have often heard you speak of Jesus in the sweetest strains, while the falling tears have wit- nessed the sincerity of your licnrt. Farewell, my aunt, we shall uo more hear your tender voice, that used to lull all our sorrows, and drive our fears from us. Farewell, my aunt I that lutud tlint fed us will feed us no more. Farewell to your sorrows — all is over 1 There your body must lie till the voice of the Son of God shiill eiili you up. We weep not with sorrow, but with joy, that your soul is in henvcii.' Then he said, ' Who of you all will meet her in heaven?' " There were other early converts, both in the Bear, and "Wyandot, and other tribes, who were signally owned of God, as preachers to their brethren. " Squire Grey Eyes," introduced to the General Conference, as I have described, was one of them. Peter Jones, John Sunday, and Peter Jacobs, whom we have seen in our Methodist assemblies in England, were others. In the year 183JJ a circumstance occurred in relation to the tribe of Indians bearing the strange name of " Flat Heads," who are dwellers in a distant region of the Rocky Mountains, which showed their earnest desire to have a better religion than their own, and which deeply interested the Christian public of America in their behalf. They heard a trader who visited them inciden- tally speak of Jesus Christ us the Saviour of mankind, and of the Scriptures «vhich testify of him. A strong desire was instantly awakened in their minds to know mum 284. TUE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. more of these things, and they eagerly inquired of the trader what more he knew concerning these truths. He had to declare that he himself was not able to teach them, but that there were men "living towards the rising sun" who could tell them all they desired to know. They instantly called a council of their nation, and appointed four of their principal and most trust- worthy men to go many hundreds of miles, over the rocks, and through the wilderness, to General Clark, the Indian agent at St. Louis, to inquire of him what he could tell them of Jesus Christ and his word. These deputies instantly departed on their long and dangerous journey, reached St. Louis in safety, received tVom the general all the Christian instruction he could give them, and then returned to their own people to communicate what they had learned. Two of them reached the tribe of anxiously- waiting Indians in safety, and related all they had learned, but the other two had fallen through exhaustion in their long travel. The publication of this interesting fact drew forth much Christian sympathy towards the Indians in the western region. The Methodist Mission Fund was considerably augmented through it ; several missionaries were sent to the tribe, and soon, from Oregon, and other States beyond the great Mississippi, Indian con- verts in large numbers were gathered into the Christian Church. Other efforts for the conversion of the Indians have been successfully made both in the United States and Canada. In some instances the Indian converts began to show a disposition for regulated habits of life ; they settled on farms and in villages, and gave promise of advancement in civilisation as well as religion. But the cupidity of the American Government dispossessed .,.,.,./ THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 285 (( them of the lands which, in mockery, had been " gua- ranteed to them and to their children for ever," and drove them from their settled homes in the heart of the country to the uncultivated and uninhabited parts beyond the Mississippi. There most of the Indians have been located by this "paternal" government; there, with a deep sense of their wrongs and injuries burning within their souls, they at present exist; and there, probably, they will be permitted to linger until the large Western States shall be peopled and cultivated ; then, if any of them remain, they will, most likely, be driven farther West still — either to take refuge in the rocky uncultivable heights of the mountains, or to wander, desolate and uncared for, on the western shores by the Pacific. This removal of the Indian tribes from the abodes of civilisation has brought ruin upon the Christian churches which had been established among them ; for though Methodist missionaries have followed them to their Western region, yet the number of church members has been very seriously reduced. In some instances the mis- sionaries to them are encouraged in their labours, as you would learn from their reports to the General Confer- ence, noticed in a former letter. Where brought under the power of the Gospel, they live orderly, and increase ; but without religion they give way to irregular and corrupting habits, and waste away at a rate that is most affecting to observe. If they are to be saved from utter extermination, it must be by the Gospel of the Son of God. In Canada the Government has dealt more justly towards the red people ; it has cared for them and pro- vided for them with true paternal interest. But there. I ,,•-■ \r 286 THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. as in the United States, without the Gospel of Christ they fade away before the face and tread of the white man. His " fire-water " and profligacy corrupt and destroy them; and it is to be feared that this whole nation of heroes and patriots, once spread over the North American continent, will one day have fallen under the cupidity and sinfulness of professing Chris- tians. And if the fall of one hero and patriot, bo so loudly lamented, what shall be the voice Oi ii'o jrrirg which shall lament the fall of a whole nation ? spel of Christ of the white r corrupt and lat this whole read over the ly have fallen •fessing Chris- patric^ bsi so Aon? Id u LETTER XVIT. THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE " FAR WEST." Our "Farewell" to the Confcreucr, and Departure from ludianapolis — Kail- way to St. Louis — Forests and Prairies— Giaantic Scale of Amerieau Scenery — Rapid Glance at St. Louis — Enibarknient on the Mississippi — Confluence with the Missouri — River Scenery — Miv ' ' ent Night Scene; — Importance of the " Valley of the Mississippi " — River Steamer and Com- pany — "Snags" and "Sawyers" — S(piatting Wood-Cutters — The Missis- sippi by Night — Landing at Quincy. The dav arrived when we had to leave Indianapolis, for we had duties to perform in England before the as- sembling of our own Conference at Bristol, that required us to return by a certain date. Our brethren, too, of AVestern and Eastern Canada had memorialised us to attend their Conferences on our way home. Wc felt sad at tlie thought of separating fi'om friends and brethren with whom, for nearly three weeks, we had been so intimately and pleasantly associated ; and, though homo and friends in our own land beckoned us, j'et it was in serious mood and with heavy hearts that we went to the State-House, on the day of our departure for Canada and for home, to bid the Conference farewell. Bishop Tuorris was in the chair when we took our leave, and Bishop AVaugh, the senior bisliop, addressed us on behalf of the brethren, referring to our mission r 288 THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. and our services in the kindest manner, and assuring us of their love to us and to our brethren in England. We replied with full hearts, while the Conference and spectators were all in tears. The Conference then, on the proposal of the venerable bishop, stood up with lifted hands, and in silent prayer committed us to the care and protection of the Almighty : and, when we stepped down from the platform to leave the State- House, the bishops, ministers, and friends crowded around us, expressing, in the most affectionate and earnest manner, their good-will for us, for our country, and for British Methodists. We struggled through the friendly crowd to the governor's office, below stairs, for some official returns on America which he had kindly obtained for us, and, laden with volumes and pamphlets issued by the legis- lature, we made our way to the governor's house, that we might pack up our luggage and prepare for de- parture. But here again we were surrounded by friends of the city and of the country, who crowded upon us to bid us adieu. We forced ourselves up into our lodging- room and began to arrange our portmanteaus, when it became almost immediately filled with ministers from the Conference to bid us another and a final farewell. And through the remaining hours of the evening similar kindness and attentions were shown to us. We left Indianapolis for St. Louis and the Mississippi by the 8"40 train, in the evening, his excellency the governor, with his Irish man-servant, kindly accompany- ing us to the stition, and assisting us with the disposal of our luggage, and with the obtaining of our railway- tickets. We took a very grateful and affectionate leave of our generous and attentive host, and most earnestly de- THE MISSISSIPPI. AND THE FAR WEST. 289 issippi cy tho ipany- isposul ilway- javo of tly de- sired that he might visit England, and thus give us the opportunity of making some practical return for the very great kindness he had shown us, bj'' our attentions to him in a land distant from his own home. It was a fine moonlight night, and we could see the principal objects and features of the city as the huge snorting engine dragged us away from it. Remembering how much we had seen and felt in Indianapolis, we looked towards it, as long as any part of it was to be seen, with strong emotion, and when, in the cold grey light, it at length faded from our view, we took off our travelling-caps, and, with tears in our eyes, waved a last farewell towards a city which must lastingly live in our remembrance. We spoke to each other of the accomplishment of our mission and of our journey homewards, wliich was now in reality commenced, and turned our thoughts to Eng- land, and to what awaited us there. Our road for some time lay through forest lands par- tially cleared and cultivated, and some of the moonlight ejects in the dark, gloomy passages through the forest avenues, and upon our breaking forth into the silvery light in the clearings, were particularly striking. These passages through tho woods were indeed awfully grand ; they seemed filled with the very shadow of death, and, when looking forth into the impenetrable depth of darknesfl, and thinking of the serpents and beasts of prey which harboured there, it was difficult to throw off a shuddering feeling. We passed Terra Haute, a neat, pleasantly-situated town of rising importance ; and, tlijcading our course by tho side of the deep blue Wabash lliver, we passed over miles of rich, self-sown Prairie land, to tho old French settlement of Vinccnnes. Here we changed cars about three o'clock in the morning, and u 290 THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. took some refreshment preparatory to our journey directly westward across tho Btttte of Illinois to St. Louis. I may here note that it was in this neighbourhood, by the side of the Wabash, that llobert Owen made his heathenish attempt at a socialist colony. Twelve months, however, were sufficient to bring it to an end, and to fill his deluded followers with tho disappointment they have everywhere had to exporiouco from his godless and abortive schemes. We now saw and felt ourselves to be fairly in the Western wilderness. Tho moon, which had been our companion on the way, and which had gleamed for us at intervals into tho depths of tho dark for l\ 1 paper of the AYest, we made our way down to the wharf, and after hard search among the crowd of ships, and dragging of our luggage to and fro several times amid the scorching and exhausting heat, we found a steamship that would take us up the Mississippi, went on board, and by five o'clock, or a little later, loosened from our moorings to ascend " the Father of Waters." The Mississippi, for some few miles, was in the main such as it appears to be in front of the city of St. Louis — a wide, muddy stream, with a heavy, swelling current in the middle, which hurries down huge logs of wood, and crooked trunks of trees, in its course towards the ocean ; while the sandbanks at its sides are often verdureless. As we proceeded, however, the scenery on each boundary became more picturesque, especially on the western side, where the bank of the river rose to a considerable height, and was richly covered with trees. At about eighteen miles distant from St. Louis, on the left, the great turbulent Missouri River, which rises in the Rocky Mountains, and drains the land for 2655 miles, pours its flood of waters into the Mississippi. Islands are constantly being raised up, swept away, and formed again, by the soil-deposit and force at the confluence of these two giant riA^ers. Twenty-five miles further upwards the Illinois River, which is a fine, deep, navi- gable stream, 245 miles long, also flows into the Missis- sippi ; but so superior is the mightier volume of this, " the Father of Waters," as the Indians named it, that while it is known to deepen in its channel by its reception of tributary rivers, yet, by the appearance on its surface, it seemed to gain no accession by its union with the flowing volumes of the Missouri and the Illinois. When we had passed the confluence of the two rivers, and ■I THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. 295 began again to aecond the Mississippi, it flowed, appa- rently as widely and as heavily as before. But its waters were now clearer, and its banks, with their trees and rocks, were aeon refloctod on the glassy surface. Nume- rous lovely islands also burst upon our sight — islands which the mighty rivor had formed by its eddying current striking diagonally from a point, and depositing its sediment. Those islands, in an incredibly short period of time, become clothed with fast- growing cotton- trees, that give shelter to various kinds of aquatic fowl, such as swans, geese, ducks, and pelicans, which con- gregate there. The captain of our steamer stated that no chart of the rivor, with its islands, could be laid down, so as to bo practically and permanently useful ; and that ho had known islands to be produced within the period of his going up the river and returning. There might be some (exaggeration in the latter part of this statement ; but to the speedy formation of islands in the Mississippi, and of the rapid growth of their rich covering of verdure, many give testimony. The trees at the sides of the rivor increased in size, until we were bounded on the right and on the left with dense forests of giant growth, extending on the plains and over the hills, as far as wo could see. In some parts, the river had overflowed its banks, and was many miles wide, until the scone cornbinc.'d, with its own vast extent all the swelling grandeur of the Scotch and Cumberland lakes, and, witli its nunibovless and picturesque islands, all the romantic loveliness of Ki Harney. Towards tho evening of our first day on the river, a vision of indoseribablo nuignitlccnce and glory burst upon us. Tho sun was sinking behind the hills and forest trees on our loft, and had irradiated all that side I 296 THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. of the sky with the richest orange and crimson light. His golden beams pierced through the fringes of the massive foliage, and shone aslant on the water. The colours deepened into glowing carmine and lake tints, until at length the whole scene seemed dyed in scarlet, and yet shone as if on fire. On our right, over the dark forest, now came up the moon, apparently twice as large as we see it in England, and not pale and silvery, but red and glowing, as if it had ascended from out a furnace of molten gold. It rose rapidly into the heavens, gilded not onl_^' the hills and the trees, but threw such a pathway cf splendour across the river, that we seemed surrounded with dazzling enchant- ment. Exclamations of wonder and admiration broke un- controllably from Dr. Hannah and myself as we wit- nessed the successive phases of this vision of creation's glory ; and. pt last I climbed to the upper deck of the steamer, to muse upon it alone. Here, thought I, I am really on the bosom of this magnificent Mississippi, which has long, through reading and from report, been a dream of the imagination that I never expected to realise. Here, for untold thousands of years, has flowed this mighty river, through unbroken solitudes, a course of 3200 miles in length, draining off into the measure- less ocean the surplus water of considerably more than a million square miles — swallowing up in its course the turbulent Missouri, the bright Ohio, the white Arkan- sas, and the lied and Yellow Stone Rivers, all of great depth, length, and breadth, and yet, without any changed appearance, absorbing all of them into its volume. Thus it flowed, perhaps, ages before the scream of the eagle or the war-whoop of the Hod Indian were THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. 297 ight. [ the The tints, arlet, sr the ice as Ivery, out a ;o the !8, but river, chant- ke un- v^e wit- sation's of the Lt I, I lissippi, t, been icted to flowed course .easure- than a rse the Arkan- ,f great lut any into its scream [an were heard on its banks ; and thus it shall flow on, perhaps, to the end of time. But how different will be the Future from the Past ! Here, on each side of this mighty river, shall rise cities and ports, in which civilised man shall build and trade, and send forth the produce of the cultivated soil and the works of his hands to the ends of the world ; and here, amidst the teeming population which shall throng these shores, shall rise churches, and colleges, and halls of learning and science that shall vie with those of my own land ; and here shall rise men of art, and literature, and religion, whose names will become watchwords for future gene- rations. I tried to imagine the feelings of De Soto, when, two centuries ago, he discovered this great river. And I thought also of the .^elf- forgetful, self-sacrificing, and persevering zeal of the French Jesuit missionaries, who, nearly two hundred years ago, adventured upon the ocean-like current of this giant river in light frail canoes, and explored it, for Christ and their king, from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Gulf of Mexico. Those disciples of Ignatius Loyola (Joilet, Marguette, and Le Salle) may have been mistaken men, but surely their examples of Christian heroism and enterprise ought to shame and stimulate Protestant ministers into self- denying and laborious service for the Lord of Hosts. But the Future — the Future ! — is the thought which swells within you as you gaze on this grand river ; indeed, it is the thought which is perpetually rising uppermost go where you will iu America. No hoary castles or ivy-hung monastic ruins serve to wing back your thoughts to the Past in this region. Each forest- clearing and embryo giant city lead you to ask, amidst 298 THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. .! ii K mi:.; the exhaustless resources of the vast country, "What will this America and its people be in the Future?" This valley of the Mississippi, with its unparalleled richness of soil, and with every variety of climate, has in it more than one and a quarter million of square miles, and would hold, without inconvenience, all the nations of Europe. Its commerce is now much more than all the foreign commerce of the States besides. Its rivers, which are its great highways, extend 17,000 miles, and already have upon them 1200 steamboats. The tide of emigration has set in for this valley of the JNIississippi from all parts of the States — nay, from all parts of the world. Its dark rich mould — the deposit of ages, and often 100 feet deep — where cultivated, produces corn and fruit rapidly and abundantly, until this great " cen- tral basin of the States" appears like a huge loaded harvest-waggon. As Berkeley wrote, — " Westward the course of empire takes its way," and numerous circumstances contribute to the rush of the population towards it. Disappointed, ruined, and restless men of the States hasten towards it with hope, or for shelter, and men of other nations press on to it as the great agricultural field of the world, where they may obtain as many acres as they choose at almost a nominal price. Already there are ten or twelve mil- lions of people in this immense valley, and fifty or sixty thousands a year enter it afresli. And when it is remembered that the Mississippi River lies along the middle of the United States, and has as much laud on the west of it as it has on the east, the mind shrinks from the fatiguo of stretching itself to conceive what America and its Mississippi valley shall one day be- THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. 299 u come. "Going West" and "Far West" are phrases that sound more curiously, and raise the imagination, the more one hears them. We heard them in the Eastern States, we heard them as we crossed the AUeghanies ; but still we hear them — though hundreds of miles from the Atlantic, the cry is still " Going West ! " and about the country ** Far West." After the moon had risen high into the heavens, I went below into the saloon and the under-deck, to look at our steamboat and our fellow-passengers. The steamer was a monster of its class, and bore the name of Mattie Mai/ne. It had three decks, and seemed to have no hull to rest upon, and nothing but its large paddle-wheels to unite its piled-up castle-like tiers together. The saloon was luxuriously fitted up with sofas, rocking-chairs, tables, and mirrors, and stretched from end to end of the vessel, under the upper deck, for the convenience and enjoyment of the better-paying passengers. The berths were in closets at the sides — some for families, and some for individuals. In the middle, encased in glass, through which its bright working parts might be seen, was the engine, with its rising and falling beams, all in the cleanest and purest condition. In front of this was a brass-railed spiral staircase, leading down to the refectory, or eating cabin ; while right and left of the saloon were common wash-rooms for the passengers, with jjro bono pi(biico towels, hair-brushes, and combs : one of each of the last-named articles servinj? for all who enter the wash- room. In the fore-part of the saloon was the bar for the sale of di'ams, American cordials, and tobacco. Below was a huge deck (that seemed almost 'evel with the water), crowded with emigrants, furnit e, heavy fj^^jk^fi^'- . 300 THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. i goods, and firewood ; while in the middle was burning the great engine-fire, and around it, shining with pro- fuse perspiration, were some big black men constantly throwing logs of wood and lumps of resin upon it to make it burn fiercely. The company in the saloon was of all kinds. The people seemed to be of several nations ; and some of them were most uninviting in their aspect. Several of the men had dark-lantern looking faces, with hollow cheeks, deeply sunken eyes, long hair, and grisly un- shaven faces; others had a bilious or aguish look. Now and then, from under the waistcoats of some of them, or out at their pockets, might be seen obtruding the handle of a bowie-knife or a revolver. Some of them looked like " border-ruffians," or slave-dealers, if they were not such ; and as we had the Slave State of Missouri on the left of us, we were ready to conclude that some of them were really of this character. They lounged, whittled pieces of sticks, and balanced them- selves on broken -legged chairs and lame stools, when upon deck, and in the evening cast oif their coats, waistcoats, and shoes, and danced with ladies in full dress until near midnight. AVe retired to our berth, but not to sleep, though wo had been travelling all the night before, for our berth was next to the bar, and the gathering and loud talking at it, as well as the sound of music and dancing until far into the night, kept us awake. Wo were obliged to go into the common washing- room when we rose in the morning, for there was no provision whatever fur our ablutions in our berth ; and wc were glad that we could take with us into the washing-room our own combs and brushes, if wc could THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. 301 not obtain towels and water-glasses for ourselves. In this room there was a barber, who shaved any who were disposed, for fourpence, placing them on a high seat, with their feet on a resting-block as high as their chins, as if they were going to have a surgical operation performed upon them. I submitted to this mode of treatment for once, but was glad when I passed from under the hands of the Western barber. Our meals were very unsatisfactory, for our companions, as usual, clutched first at seats, and then at meats, until we could hardly find room or food ; and unchanged plates and knives at table did not increase our relish for eating. Unfortunately, too, our drinkiig- water was not clear and good, a^ it had uniformly been before in our travelling, but was the thick muddy water of the river, drawn up for use as the steamer sped along. The following day was principally spent on the fore- part of the upper deck, viewing the river and its vary- ing and beautiful scenery, though, in remaining in that part of the vessel, we suffered no small inconvenience, at times, from the large wool sparks, which issued in shoals from the two huge black chimneys of the steamer. I sketched, hastily, passing memoranda of the river at several points, with its islands, bends, and skirting foliage, so that I might have, by minute obser- vation of its forms, its character and associations fully stamped on my memory. In some parts it was beauti- fully placid and calm, spreading itself out over miles on the right and left, as if in ba3's or lakes. In other parts it was pent up in a narrow channel, where it boiled furiously, and tore away at its sides largo masses of soil w ith their fulling trees, and formed these trees into the most dangerous obstacles of navigation on the Slissis- ^top^^' !!i 302 THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. -■ r. I ! sippi, by fixing them with their roots in the bottom of the river, and their tops and forked branches just under the surface, ready to damage the hulls of ascending or descending vessels. These impediments to navigation are called, in "Western phraseology, "snags" and "saw- yers." The quantity of floating logs and driftwood in some parts of the river was amazing. On the river-banks were to be seen, every few miles, log-cabins, belonging to squatting woodcutters, with long piles of timber cut into short lengths, and laid ready for sale and exportation. Nearly all the fuel of this region is of wood, and it is a large article of com- merce on the borders of the Mississippi. Our steamboat stopped at several points to replenish its fuel from these stores. Some of the woodcutters' cabins are very for- lorn and desolate in their appearance, being in the midst of swamps formed by the overflowing of the stream; and the men and women, separated as they are from society, sink into coarseness, until they look like uncivilised creatures. I am told it is no uncommon thing for men, when driven from general society for crime, to fix their dwellings in these wild spots, not caring for any other title to their lands than the rifle or the revolver. There are, however, some good rising towns on the banks of the river, among wliieh may be named Alton, Louisiana, and Hannibal, as lying in our course. Wo saw also as we jiassed along large floating rafts of timber, such as are common on the lihine, bearing up(m tliom men and women, who were lodged in temporary huts in tlio centres of them, and steered them down in the current of the river for the towns and cities below. As mo sat and viewed the scenery on o'lr way, we thought of the slaves W. ST. THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. 303 le bottom of 8 just under scending or I navigation ' and " saw- iriftwood in y few miles, utters, with hs, and laid [1 the fuel of icle of com- ur steamboat 3I from these ire very for- jeing in the wing of the ited as they til they look uncommon 1 society for d spots, not the rifle or |)wus on the uned Alton, lourse. Wo ts of timber, In them men I huts in the [c current of wo sat and If the slaves on our left hand hiding themselves in the cane-brakes and trees till they can escape across the water to the free 8tate of Illinois, and of the poor Indians who have been driven into western seclusion by the Government. The day was exceedingly hot, and the sun scorched and blis- tered us with its heat ; but we could not forego the sight of this solemn and beautiful scenery, and except during the intervals of meals, we sat on the uncovered deck through the day. In the evening the same glowing sunset and the same burning appearance of the moon were seen as on the evening before. The whole panorama was dyed in orange and crimson, and when the sun had gone down, the effects of objects upon the water and by the river-side were very striking. The moon glared behind us like a huge globe of fire, and streamed its red light upon the water, making its reflection appear like a pathway of blood. The steamboats that we met, with their funnels issuing ceaseless showers of largo sparks, seemed like living moristers with open throats of flamo snorting fire from their blackened and upturned nostrils, while the horrid screeching of the vessels, by way of warning signals as they approached and passed, strength- ened this imagination. Then, at intervals, the lights of rising towns on the banks sparkk-d in the distance before ^s, and reflected their burning points deeply down in the water, while watch and signal-fires, in high stilted cauldrou-liko grates, blazed on their quays and piers. As we passed the islands and swamps, we heard the croaking of monster bull-frogs mingled with the cries of disturbed and afl'righted birds. Wo gazed upon and listened musingly to these strange sights and sounds until nearly eleven o'clock, when the signal-fire of Quincy made 1^ I, ' i 304 THE MIF8ISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST. known to us that our landing-place was near, and we must prepare to disomburk, after having steamed up the Mississippi, in thirty hours, nearly 200 miles. We landed on tho sloping embankment, and drove up, at the recommendation of an English mechanic (who told us that, as a couchmakers' smith, he earned four dollars per day), to the "Virginia" Hotel, to pass the night. But our countryman, we hope unwittingly, had misled us. The room allotted to us was loathsomely filthy and comfortlosB, with broken window, broken fur- niture, broken utensils, and with hard straw half-covered beds ; so thot we did not pnss a very easy night, but we thought and said that many good men had been worse lodged than we wor©, and, needing rest, we made the best of our circumstances, and in partial undress soon fell asleep. i: . S' TTf.- rEST. near, and we teamed up the iles. , and drove up, aechanic (who le earned four :el, to pass the iwittingly, had as loathsomely )W, broken fur- iw half-covered y night, but we had been worse t, we made the al undress soon LETTER XVIII. PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, AND THE GREAT LAKES. Dt'liarturc from Qiiiiicy — The Prairie — Prairie Fires — Richness of Prairie Soil — Destruction of Cattle on American Railways — "Off the Line" — General Tom Thumb — Neighbourhood of Nauvoo — Thoughts on Mor- mouism — Its Future in the States — Chicago — Amazing Rapidity of its Growth — Meeting with Friends — Drive round the City — ^Magical haste with which People get Ricli in Cliicauo — Family Party — The Lady's Question— Departure from Chicago — Arrival at Detroit — Sabbath spent there — Account of Churches and Services — Voyage to HufTalo — The Great Lakes of America — Sketch of Ilufi'alo City — Arrival at Niagara. We rose early on Thursday morning, May 22nd, to leave Quincy by the railway for Chicago. At breakfast we had a goodly number of companions, several of whom appeared to beAVestcii traders. Our meal was some- what coarse and unii \ iting, but, with iced milk and bread-and-butter, we ive never felt ourselves at a loss for a satisfactory mon ing or evening meal while in America. Through the stolid indifference of our host, ^vc were in danger of being left a whole day at Quincy ] • — the vehiele for conveying us and our luggage to the iiullway not having been .provided for us until a few I moments before the starting of the train. We had iiKide the best use of our morning hour for glancing [over the town. Quincy is situated on an elevation of X J0»^ t ^tW ' . ' !"".. liiS H^ST \ M I f 306 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. 125 feet above the Mississippi, and commands a fine view of the river and of the surrounding country. It appears to be a town of considerable trade, with some good buildings, chiefly of wood, and is said to have a population of more than 9000. The railway terminus is not yet completed, being at present without suitable rooms and booking-offices. After a hard and jolting drive in our hastily-provided vehicle, we reached the carriages, deposited our luggage in the van, and started at 7 A.M. for Chicago. Our road lay over forest and prairie land. Towns in process of formation were seen at distant intervals. Some of the prairie wildernesses over which we passed were exceedingly impressive. They extend for scores and scores of miles unbroken by any trees or hills, or, indeed, by any other object than the line of railway which passes through them. All round to tbj horizon, on every side, is prairie — prairie, just as in the middle of j the Atlantic all round is sea — sea. The grass has not yet attained its full height, but it is more than breast j high, and rolls before the wind in billows or undulating forms, such as reveal to us the meaning of the epithet often given to the prairie lands — that of the "land ocean." These immense plains of heaving grass arel richlj' enamelled with large, beautiful flowers, that growl in clusters or patches of white, red, yellow, lilac, and! blue. "We could see hero and there in our course what desO', lation had been made in the high grass of the prairies! by fires in it, occasioned by the largo blaz'ng wood-F sparks which fly in shoals from the engine-chimney asl it rushes along with its train. In some parts thcrcT are black gaps of miles in circumference which have «.' PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. 307 been made by this means. TVe are told that the confla- grations in the prairie- grass, through lightning or other modes of combustion, are most fearfully sublime and destructive. When its high-waving stalks are set on fire, the flame rushes on with the wind at the rate of five miles; an hour or more, consuming all in its course, and destroying beasts, reptiles, birds, and even men, that may be sheltering in or travelling through it. The prairie-fire, with the huge black cloud of smoke which accompanies it, seems to be as swift and fatal as the simoom is in the Arabian or African desert, and is much dreaded by all living creatures. When seen or scented at a distance, beasts — buffaloes, wolves, and wild horses — dash through the grass with furious sjieed to escape from it if possible ; while a company of men unmounted have no chance of saving their lives but by burning a large clear space around them, and then prostrating themselves flat on their faces until the prairie-fire has leaped over them. Some very exciting stories have been told me of these prairie-fires, such as would form delicious food for excited ears on long winter nights under the ancient chimney nooks of old-fashioned Lincolnshire. Where the prairie lands are broken for cultivation, the pastures appeared to be very rich indeed. Large numbers of cattle, tended by long- limbed boys on horse- back, were seen feeding, or gambolling and galloping to and fro. Indian corn-stalks wixo standing to rot and fall upon the soil, not being worth the labour of cutting and gathering ; and wooden frames and houses were seen, rising in different localities on grass land (with the names of stores and streets upon them), where, in a short time, will be found important towns and cities. The more fre- ■ 1 308 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. V U * !1 • I quented thoroughfares of these skeleton streets and buildings were deeply ploughed into ruts by the wheels of vehicles which had passed over them, and were it not that the soil is light and sandy in character, though dark in colour, the roads would seem to be almost impassable. Many of the houses seemed to be neatly furnished, and displayed cleanliness in their window-blinds and bed- coverings. The women, too, who stood at the open doors to gaze at the train as it passed, were trimly dressed, and looked very much like what may be seen at the doors of middle-class houses in English small towns and villages in summer time. The stores appeared to contain more of the necessaries of life than of its luxuries, and were made known by large lettered signboards outside, rather than by display in the windows. The men were tall, and looked rough and earnest. They ride and drive horses long-limbed and as full of energy as themselves, like American traders generally. They seem every- where and at all times in haste, and one would think, as one looked upon them with their grisly unshaven clnns, strong clothing, high over-boots, and hurried move- ments, that they were afraid of not obtaining the for- tunes they desired out of the lands on which they had settled, before the crowds of coming emigrants should arrive to share with them in their Western possessions. There is, however, in nearly all the persons we have seen on this line, whether in the embryo towns by its side, or within railway-cars, a thriving, well-to-do appearance, which has led us to conclude that they had made a good selection of locality for settlements. Guide-books here are but of little use to travellers. To be really service- able, they ought to be published every month, as Brad- shaw's Railwaj' Guides are in England. TRATRIE LAND, CIIICAQO, 1>ETR0IT, ETC. 309 its and wlieek e it not o-h dark lassable. led, and nd bed- en doors 3sed, and doors of L villages ain more and were le, rather wrere tall, and drive lemselves, jm every- thing, as ven chin 8, ed move- the for- thcy had its should ossessions. have seen its side, or jpearance, ade a good )Ook8 here ly service- as Brad- P This railway, liko the others on which we have tra oxiod in Americu, in most parts is unfeuced off from the adjoining lands, and cuttle may be seen a-head in droves, standing or lying across the rails. To scare them away, a most horrid screech-horn is blown by the engine ; but sometimes the oxen will not move, or, if they move, ^*t is so slowly that the engine-driver has to stop the train, and cither ho or hia man leap down and drive the beasts away. The thousands of cattle run over and destroyed annually upon this railway is almost incredible. On our v/ay wo ran off the rails, and that on a somewhat rudo cjnbunkment, and over soft boggy land. But the oflieiuls seemed fully prepared for such an ordinary mishaj), and, by a species of wooden fulcra and levers, thoy succoodtnl in loss than an hour in getting us back iipon tho ruila, and ugain we sped along. The railways in this part arc rough and jolting. They appear as if thoy liad boon made for only temporary use — the iron rails are laid over sleepers which are very irregular both in thickjioss and length, while little or no attention seems paid to tho levelling between them, or about the rails. And here, as in nearly all other parts of Amori(';i, tlio tni vollor may see by the roadside, or crossing the land for a shorter course, the telegraph- wire supported by rough, tall posts, and at points he may read on a rudely-constructod guide-board perhaps " 300 miles " to somo city of importance. In this Western pint of tho world, as elsewhere, we found that tho sublime and the ridiculous are often near neighbours, or that tlu^ one comes often close at the heels of tho other. Wo were bounding over the rich and immense plains of waving prairie land, and were full of solemn thoughts on the strange panoramr, and # 310 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. on the great future for these regions, when, on stopping at the rude station of a newly-risen town, who should enter our car and take his seat near to us but " General Tom Thumb ! " He looks older, less childlike, and more jaded and worn than when he was exhibited to such crowds in England. He does not seem to have grown much. He was dressed in blue clothes of the ordinary shape, ornamented with gilded buttons, and with a somewhat tall hat upon his head. He looked more like a dwarf than he did when in our country. He lounged, stretched his short length upon the seat, slept, walked to and fro, and spoke with the assumed airs of a full-grown man, but it was evident that in mental capacity he was still a mere child. When in the neighbourhood of Quincy, both on the river and on the rail, we could not but think and speak together upon the Mormons, for we were there nigh 'o the locality in which they made their first "Western settlement — Nauvoo, or " The Beautiful," as it was named by them. It was about fifty miles from Quincy, on the eastern bank of the Mississippi, and was, consequently, on our left hand when we were on the railway from Quincy to Chicago. Nauvoo is now in ruins, as a place that has been deserted by its people, and destroyed by its invaders ; but its large temple, built of polished lime- stone to accommodate 3000 persons, may still be dis- tinctly seen standing, as if in monumental mockery of its infatuated and impious builders. While steaming up the solitude of the great river, on the evening that we drew near to Quincy, with the knowledge that the remains of the Mormon city were not distant, and in the direction to which our faces were turned, it was impossible not to reflect upon the deeds of Joe Smith PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. 311 sbouW general ce, and )ited to to bave J of the ms, and B looked try. He jat, slept, airs of a tt mental atli on the and speak re nigh .o t Western was named Qcy, on the nsequently, ilway from 3, as a place estroyed by )lished lime- still be dis- mockery of steaming up ling that we ge that the stont, and in xrned, it was of Joe Smith and his designing company a few years ago in that region ; and then, after thinking of the blasphemous pretensions, the gross indulgencies, and the unwarrant- able expectations of the Mormon prophet and his suc- cessors, we had only to turn to the left, and think of the region of Utah and its Salt Lake City, where so many thousands of deluded beings are settled under a system which is the most revolting, as well as the most astounding, of any that has appeared among men. To think that a scheme of such gross falsehood, sensualitj', and despotism — a scheme which, on the basis of a clumsy fraud, represents God in the Trinity of the Divine Persons as material, which makes pretensions to miracles, and which authorises an unbridled licentious- ness, should now number among its converts in England 30,000 souls, and should have emigrating to its Sodom, in the Salt Lake valley, thousands yearly, many of them not of the lowest classes, but farmers, mechanics, and clerks, with their wives, mothers and daughters, brothers and sisters — this is, undoubtedly, the most humiliating fact that an English traveller in the Western world can possibly contemplate. I am informed that the scenes beheld among the emigrants to this land of blasphemy and vice are often most appalling. We have been in their great highways of passage to the City of the Salt Lake, and have heard lamentable accounts of the deplo- rable and broken-hearted condition into which many of the poor deluded parties are plunged by the time they arrive on the borders of the West. They are worn and haggard, ragged and wretched, having exhausted their means and become awake to the folly and sinfulness of their undertaking. They generally travel in caravans, or companies, from this part to the Far West, and the 'I -UJ*.Vii»tl acE^^vTr 312 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. white settlers, as well as the revengeful Indians through whose regions they have to pass, hold them in the strongest abhorrence. With thoughtful persons in the States, a serious question has been pondered concerning the admission of such a communion of profligate persons into the Federal Union when they shall become numerous enough, as they soon will, to claim a formal position among the recogniaed States, and to have their senators and representatives in the Congress. Already, indeed, the Mormon district of Utal has been inaugurated as a " territory," and has its representative without a vote ; and the president now appoints its principal officers, of governor, judges, marshals, &c. But when the time for its full reception into the Union as a " State" shall come, its deeply immoral laws and irreligious principles must be freely and searchingly investigated; and then, remem- bering the spirit of defiance and insubmission which Mormonism has manifested in the past, it is expected that it will come into direct and desperate collision with the authorities of the Union rather than give up its intolerance and its polygamy, or open its territory to settlers from all parts of the earth. For a time, the struggle with such an infatuated and evil-principled multitude may be dreadful, but, in the end, the general laws of the States must prevail over the so-called " priestly " domination of Utah. On arriving at Chicago, about seven o'clock in the evening, we found ourselves in a city which, perhaps more than any other, impresses the mind with astonish- ment at the rapid advance of the western parts of Ame- rica. Thirty years ago a solitary log-cabin for Govern- ment stood here at the head of Lake Michigan ; now it is a city which cont:iius nearly 100,000 inhabitants, PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. 313 tlirougli , in the 8 in the icerning • persons Lumerous position senators r, indeed, rated as a Lt a vote ; officers, of Q time for hall come, pies must n, remem- ion which 3 expected ision with ive up its jrritory to time, the principled he general so-called Dck in the li, perhaps 1 astonish" ts of Amc- or Govern- m ; now it nluibitants, with its streets, stores, warehouses, railways, shipping, and all kinds of trade. And from the very first glance one takes at its situation, and its widely-scattered build- ing-plots, it is evident that Chicago is only in its infancy, and must eventually become a monster city. It stands adjoining the great lake region of the north- west, and is in communication with the immense corn- growing districts east and west of the ISlississippi, while it has direct means of transit both to the Eastern States and the Atlantic Ocean. It is, in fact, and must continue to be, the great store city of the north-west of America, holding trade and commerce in articles of food and clothing not only with other parts of the Union, but also with England and with other nations of Europe. On arriving at the railway terminus we were assailed by a crowd of "toutors," or runners, from different hotels and boarding-houses ; but we had previously fixed upon the Fremont Hotel for our abode while we should remain in Chicago, and so we pressed through the shouting crowd, and drove away lor our lodging as vjuickiy as possible. The Fremont is a huge hotel, and is crowded with travellers from many parts of the States. In going to it we passed, on bridges, over the river, which divides the city into three parts, and could see, as wo went along, the shipping, wharves, and warehouses of a place of great trade. The large wide streets, too, were thronged with people hurrying to and fro ; wliile lighted-up stores, restau- rants, public lounges, ai.ii places of evening amusement, told of a gay and flourishing city. Next morning, after an early breakfast, we set out to view the city, under the guidance of the Hev. Thomas ( w: I i ■ 314 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAQO, DETROIT, ETC. f Williams, formerly of England ; but first we went to the top of our hotel, and took a bird's-eye view of Chi- cago, tracing it, from that point of advantageous sight, into streets, river, adjoining lake, and principal build- ings. We then proceeded to the Methodist Book De- pository, to examine some recent publications. After- wards, under the charioteer-driving of Mr. Brown of the bank, we rode in a carriage and pair through the principal streets, and round the suburbs. Very few of the streets are paved, and in some parts planks of wood are laid down to drive upon. Everywhere there are signs of recent building ; and the city, in its most crowded parts, seemed almost madly in earnest and in haste with the "push" of business. All round the city, except at the lake, there is level, good prairie land, suited either for cultivation or build- ings ; and a good part of it will soon be occupied. Land has risen from almost nothing to enormous prices, and streets and new building plots have been marked and fenced out in the outskirts ; while a largo park, with mansions and villas, may be seen or the north-east side of the city. We drove to the cemetery, and from thence to the railway pier, which stretches for more than a mile over the upper end of the lake, and forms a serviceable breakwater. Chicago has now in communication with it, either opened or in progress, 0000 miles of tailway ; who shall say what such a city may net become P We found everywhere signs of plenty and prosperity. Copper money seemed to have hardly an existence in the town. If a news-boy sold you a newspaper at the professed price of tvo cents, he expected you to give him a five cent silver piece for it; while the litllc I , FRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC, 315 ^ent to Df Chi- s siglit, L build- )ok De- After- rown of ugh the •y few of of wood there are its most jst and in •e is level, L or build- Led. Land )rice8, and irked and park, with [north-east urchin that ran to open the gate for you would reject any copper piece that might be offered him, saying, " I do not take copper." We were plainly told that, in Chicago, the question with every one was not "How shall I live ? " for that was certain, but " How soon can I get rich ?" And accounts were given us of the pro- fitable investment of money, by which it doubled itself with certainty in three or four years ; and numerous proofs were given to us of this in living individuals who had gathered immense riches within very short periods of time. Several friends from England urged us to remain over Sunday, and preach to them. They assured us that at least one hundred persons now settled in Chi- cago had known and heard us in England. We felt deeply interested in these friends, but could not remain. We were likewise greatly interested in Mr. Brown, the gentleman who drove us in his carriage through and around the city. He is a very intelligent, generous, and courteous ^lethodist friend. After our drive we dined with him and his family at his own house. It is a pleasant villa in the suburbs of the city, and is sur- rounded by a garden and shrubbery. Mrs. Brown is an intelligent, ladylike person ; and with our host and his wife, their mother and children, and our friend AVillianiJ, wo ate as English a meul, and passed as sociable an afternoon as we could desire so many thou- sand railt^s from home. Our friends were all strong haters of Slavery. ]\lr. Brown suid some earnest and rather desperate things concerning it. He scorned almost prepared to fight witli sword and gun for Iho immediate emancipation of the slaves. He spoke also very strongly against the "Fugitive Law," und tho 'sa^ >■ ■ iS 316 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. " Black Laws," which prohibit the settL .ment of per- sons of colour in the " Free" State of Illinois, in which we now are. One question asked of us by a lady in Chicago was a proof, not only of the strength of early impressions, but how impossible it often is for us to place ourselves, even in idea, in a strange and unexperienced condition. The lady had been speaking in high praise of England and its institutions, when she suddenly said, " But there is one arrangement concerning which I must make some inquiry, so that I may, if possible, be able to understand it, and that is, how it is that you retain the same person as sovereign ruler of your state for his or her lifetime ?" It may be imagined that, although we looked at each other, and smiled, we were, nevertheless, •; . .lely puzzled to muster together a sufficient force c " i-oso- phical argument to convince our fair questioner that it was better to sit under the settled rule of our beloved Queen for life than to exchange her for a four years* president. The lady was a native American, and could not bo brought, by any arguments, to think there was real excellency in any monarchial rule. We did not wish, indeed, in the circumstances, to enter upon an elaborate argument on the subject — not that we think our monarchial government indefensible, but we felt that the attempt to convince her was hopeless, and so got out of the challenge as politely ns possible. Tliero are numerous churches in Chicago, and among them the ]\[ethodist churches are conspicuous. I found thiit our book on (Jhapel and School Architecture was in use by Methodist friends liere, as well as in other parts of the States. There are some good scliools and public buildings. It is near to this city, at Evunston, that the ETC, i .ent of per- ois, in wWcli Chicago was a pressions, but urselves, even mdition. The England and "Bnt there is List make some . to understand he same person her lifetime?" looked at each less, •: ' 'lely orce c > ^90" icstioner that it of our beloved ,r a four years' American, and [s, to think there rule. Wo did Ito enter upon an It that we think Ible, but we felt hopeless, and so possible. [i-ugo, and among licuous. I found luhitccturo was in ii9 in other parts i;hools and public tvanston, that the PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. 317 " Garrett Biblical Institute for the education of candi- dates for the Methodist ministry" i8 to be established. It appears that it is the munificent bequest of a lady which has provided for the support of the intended institution. Her husband died after willing away almost the whole of his large property from her. By a law of the State, a widow, if not satisfactorily provided for, can claim one-third of her deceased hus- band's estate. She made her claim, and had land awarded her for her portion in and about Chicago. This land has since increased so much in value, tliat what she has left of it for the support of this establish- ment will bring in an immense yearly sum. One con- dition of the bequest is, that no part of the money shall be spent on buildings. This is not uncommon with bequests in the States, and it often secures the property left from diminution by wasteful expenditxire. On Saturday morning, the 24th of May, we left Chi- cago for Detroit by the "Lightning Express" train. Our friend Mr. Williams informed the manager of the railway who we were, and thi' manager very generously gave us free passes along the line. At first we hardly were satisfied with this. As English travellers, we did not wish to have our independence interfered with, and we would rather have paid our fare than be placed under obligation by a special favour from a stranger. But when we were assured that it was no uncommon act towards strangers and ministers, whom they desired to publicly honour, wo "pocketed the affront," as we say in England, and rode free of all charges for 282 miles. Our course was chiefly througli forest land, with here and there clearings, mid peeps, through openings among trees, into the liako Michigan. Wo mH i>'-^ I'lfriwr 318 PRAIRIE LAND, ClIIOAQO, DETROIT, ETC. ' ^1 8a\\ many a creek and buy on our left hand, where Indian canoes, a few yours ago, undoubtedly entered and were lodged ; indeed, the signs of Indian residence in that part were distinct and certain. Several of the places through which wo passed bore Indian names — such as Dowagiac, Pttw-]'uw, Kulumazoo, &c. We saw also, at the stations on the road, civilised Indians in European clothing, mingling and conversing freely with the white settlers ; unci, in several instances on the way, we saw proof, in complexion, eyes, and hair, of intermarriages of whites and Indians. "We had another breakdown stoppage, through our "Lightning Express" train running off the tails; but we were soon " all right" again, and on wo went. Some coloured youtlip camo into our car, and were quite cheer- ful and merry together, laugliing and jabbering, and showing thoir oven rows of ])earl-white teeth, in free style. This was pleasing to us. It was a sign, not only that Michigan, into which wo liad now come, is a free State, but also that in this (juarter prejudice against the poor ncgi'o race is not so strong as in some others. The day was very hot and sultry; wo drank freely at the water-can, and were ihankful for ap})le8 and oranges sold to us by boys, who, at th(! succossive stations, came into tho cars with biiMlcels full of cukes and fruit. The dust, too, gathered tliickly upon us. lint by seven o'clock in the evening we reaebcd Detroit, and drove as quickly as possible to tlie liiddie Hotel. Wo obtained very comi' able bedr(M)n».H adjoining each other; and afttr plentilul ablutions and our evening meul, we walked out to see what we could, by lamp-light, of the city. Of course we could not see tniicli of it at that lime of day, but wo learned tho general character and plan of ;^ PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO i^KTROIT, ETC. 319 I, where r entered residence al of the names — We saw Indians in ng freely ices on the id hair, of irough our 3 tails ; bnt vent. Some quite cheer- bering, and ,eeth, in free gn, not only Tc, is a free 3 against the others. The rccly at the oranges sold la, came into The dust, en o'clock in e as quickly Ibtuined very Lr ; and after ll, wo walked of the city, that lime of lr and plan of the town, and saw what was its general aspect as a place of trade and merchandise. Detroit, as its name shows, was originally a French settlement. It was so as early as the year 1610, and it still, by the names, countenances, and manners of many of its people, bears undoubted marks of its origin. The city is situated on the southern bank of the river De- troit, and is seven miles from Jjake St. Clair, and eighteen from Lake Erie. It is a large, well-built city, having a very wide street about a mile and a half long, running parallel to the river, and several cross streets, squares, a market-place, &c., — extending backwards a mile or so from the river, and sloping upwards from the water 50 feet or more. Detroit contains some good public buildings, such as the State- House, the City Hall, and the Market-House. It has numerous churches, belonging to different denominations, several literary institutions, and many good shops, and has more than 40,000 inhabitants. It is a place of considerable mer- chandise, has its manufactures, is a great timber port, is visited by numerous steamboats and water-craft of various kinds, bears a high reputation for ship-building, and, by its returns of imports and exports, shows that it is increasingly prosperous. The western part of the principal street is a very pleasant promenade, and with its plank walks, overshadowed with trees, and skirted with good houdos and lovely gardens, is much frequented in fine weather. "NVo passed the Sabbath in Detroit ; and as our other Sabbaths in America had been wholly spent among the Methodiats, wo resolved, after a visit to the Methodist churches, to attend on that day the services of other denominations. Early in the morning wo went to the 320 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. U r 1^ Roman Catholic Cathedral, where we found a large congregation, and heard a young priest delivering in- struction to the children of the schools on the section of the Creed relating to "the Communion of Saints.'^ His discourse was intensely popish. He began by show- ing how persons became members of the true Church by baptism and the cucharist administered by autho- rised hands ; showed how they then had communion with all the faithful, both in heaven and earth ; and on this ground exhorted his audience to pra_; earnestly to angels, and to select their patrons and guardians from the calendar of departed saints. Next, we went to the Protestant Episcopal Church, which is a neat wooden building, on the right-hand side of the great thorough- fare in which the Roman Catholic Cathedral is situated. Here, also, we found a good congregation, and very English in its appearance. After the English Liturgy, somewhat altered and mutilated, we heard a very good sermon against infidelity and scepticism, by a minis- ter from New York. It was founded on Psalm cxix. i)8 — 100. In the afternoon we went to an elaborately ornamented Presbyterian church, of Grecian architec- ture, and heard a good, plain, practical sermon on prayer (Numbers xi. 2), delivered to a somewhat fashionable congregation. After our evening meal wc went to St. Paul's, expecting to hear the bishop of the Protestant Church preach. The largo, hand- Gothic structure, richly ailornecl, and cheer- some, fully lighted with gas, was well filled by a respectable- looking congregatJon — a more brilliant and imposing scene I never witnessed within a Protestant church. The bishop read the Liturgy in a manly, effective stylo, displaying now and then a little of the Irish accent ; ^^R"'^ c. i a large vering in- the section of Saints." a by show- rue Church by autho- commuiiion >th ; and on earnestly to irdians from went to the leat wooden at thorough- l1 is situated. )n, and very ^ish Liturgy, a very good by a minis- Psalm cxix. n elaborately ian architec- sermon on a somewhat vening meal r the bishop largo, hand- and cheer- respectablc- ind imposing Istant church, .ffective stylo, Irish accent; PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. 321 but a clergyman on a visit to Detroit preached the sermon, from 2 Peter i. 18, which was in the most popular style of French oratory, and was delivered with considerable taste and power. It was on the Transfiguration of our Lord. Altogether, we wore much impressed by the services of the Protestant Episcopal Church in Detroit — remembering tliat that Church, in other parts of the States, is so little attrac- tive to Americans, that it is only in the third or fourth rank among Christian churches. On Monday morning, at ten o'clock, we left Detroit for Niagara Falls, by a large steamer which was to take us through Lake Erie to Buffalo. We descended the river, — a pleasant stream delightfully bordered on its banks with trees, — and, by one '/clock, after passing a sort of lighthouse and some other buildings on the extremity of its western shores, we found ourselves fairly on Lake Erie. We steamed onwards in its deep green waters, being scarcely ever out of sight of one or other of its shores, all of which wore well wooded, and reflected their forms clearly in the water. Lake Erie is one of the smaller lakes, and yet it took the steamer till five o'clock the next morning to reach Buffalo, at the other end of it. Our passage over it was very pleasant; the air was still, the water smooth, we had a good and commodious steamer, and the banks and trees that skirted the lake were, in their long- atretched outlines, rich clothing, and reflected forms, highly picturesque. These groat American Lakes are not to be imagined as being similar in appearance to the lakes of ]']ngland, Scotland, and Ireland, or even to the larger lakes of Switzerland. They are totally unlike them in all their Y jij^l* ;r*r' 32.3 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. I' more characteristic features ; and, unless personally visited, can be but imperfectly realised in idea. The European notion of a lake is that of an expansive sheet of smooth water, locked in by sheltering mountains, glistening under the sun like a polished mirror, and over whose calm bright surface pleasure -beats glide with their white-winged sails, like birds aeleep in the sky. The image is that of unconscious loveliness, or beauty asleep on a flower-bank in summer-time. He^^^e we speak of " the fair bosom of the lake." Or, if w^ think of the European lake as stirred by the breeze, we imagine it rippled on its glassy surface into innu- merable glittering wavelets, that silently chase each other to the sloping margin, where they fall languidly upon the shore, kissing the pebbles of the strand as they fall in succession, and making only a soft silvery sound that dies away from us like the music of a dream. Very different is it with these great American Lakes ; they are, in fact, inland seas, and, in length, breadth, and depth, exceed considerably some of the renowned inland seas of Europe. Though very pleasant and calm at times, as was Lake Erie when we passed over it, yet at some seasons, and under certain influences of the wind, they are exceedingly stormy and dangerous. The wind sweeps down upon them from all sides, disturbs the waters, breaks them into tumultuous billows, lashes them into fury, and renders the passage over them far more perilous than over the wide open ocean ; and, even in their calmest moods, being un- moved by any ebb and flow of the tide, there is a soli- tary desert-like eflect in the monotonous dead-level of their still, green or blue waters, which, if not seen, can hardly be understood. No mere study of engraved ; . ', ETC. ess personally in idea. The jxpansive sheet Ltvg mountains, >± mirror, and treats glide with 3ep in the sky. iness, or beauty me. He^'^e we e." Or, if w- 1 by the breeze, irface into innu- ,ntly chase each ey fall languidly he strand as they ioft silvery sound pf a dream. American Lakes ; length, breadth, of the renowned pleasant and calm [assed over it, yet influences of the and dangerous, from all sides, into tumultuous jnders the passage jr the wide open jioods, being un- [de, there is a soli- Lous dead-level of I, if not seen, can ,udy of engraved PRAIRIE LAND, CIlICAaO, DFTROIT ETC. 323 maps can give the full idea of their extent, and no word-painting can effectually convey the true image of their expansive desolatene,38. It is estimated that in this great chain of Lakes, extending eastward from the north-west point of the United States, and, for the most part, forming tl»3 boundary line between the States and Canada, there are not less than 5000 miles' length of coast-line. It is stated that in the Georgian Bay, the mere arm of one of these lakes (Lake Huron), there are not less than 2700 islands, the largest of which is more than one hundred miles in length. The official returns give the following as the dimensions of the principal lakes in this vast extending chain of navigable waters ;— Lake Superior, the largest of all the lakes, and which is situated at the oxtroino north-west point of the L uited States, is 420 miles long, 100 miles in average width, and is 900 feet deep. Lake Michigan, which extends from the south-east point of Lake Superior to Chicago, is in length 3-40 miles, in average width 58 miles, and is 850 feet deep. Lake Huron, which extends from the south-east point of Lake Superior, and from the north-east point of Lake Michigan, in u south-cast direction towards the Lakes of St. Clair and Krie, is 270 miles long, 70 miles in average breadth, and id 050 feet deep. Lake St. Clair is the sinuUost of these lakes, and is a few miles north of Detroit. It is eighteen miles from north to south, and twenty-five miles from east to west. Lake Erie, extending eastward from Detroit lUver to Buffalo, and receiving for transmission towards the 324 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, KETROIT. ETC. r i;, Atlantic the water of the four lakes above-named, is 240 miles long, 38 miles in average breadth, and 265 feet deep. Lake Ontario extends eastward from the Niagara River, by which it is united with Lake Erie, to the River St. Lawrence, and is 180 miles long, 40 miles in average width, and 550 feet deep. All these hikes flow, by rivers, and straits, and canals, out of one deep basin into another; and from Lake Superior, in the order I have named, transmit their volumes of fresh water (drained from the great north-west of the continent) by the River St. Lawrence, which is 700 miles long, into the Atlantic Ocean, making, in one continued line of measurement (without following, as we did in our former reckoning, the inden- tations of the shores), more than 2000 miles : the largest inland navigation in the world. On reaching the north-eastern shore of Lake Erie, we found we were at the bottom of the port and city of Buffalo. The pier at which we landed is constructed of stone and wood, and has a lighthouse of yellow lime- stone standing at its head. This pier extends as much as 1500 feet into the lake, and serves as a breakwater for the protection of vessels from the violent gales which are occasionally experienced here. There ap- peared to be many vessels of different sizes in the port, and, in the lower part of the city, it bore quite the aspect of a maritime place. After depositing our lug- gage at the railway station, we ascended the rising ground to look at the city. Buffalo resembles other American cities, being regular in its plan, well-built, and having broad, open, straight streets, that intersect each other at right angles. The principal street, run- c. PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. 325 ,ve-natned, h, and 265 le Niagara Irie, to the 40 miles in straits, and ■; and from 3cl, transmit m tbe great 5t. Lawrence, mtic Ocean, lent (without ,g, the inden- is : the largest )f Lake Erie, ,rt and city of constructed of yellow lime- ;ends us much a breakwater violent gales There ap- ;es in the port, »ore quite the siting our lug- led the rising isembles other ,un, well-built, that intersect Lai street, run- ning from east to west, is named "Main Street;" it is more than two miles long, is 120 feet wide, and on each side has large massive piles of buildings for stores, dwelling-houses, and hotels. There are three public squares, named " Niagara," " Franklin," and ** Wash- ington" Squares; they are planted with trees, and add much to the appearance of the city. There are also some good public civic buildings, and numerous churches of more tlian ordinary architectural consistency. Alto- gether, the city looks like a great commercial mart, and situated as it is on the shore of Lake Erie, from which vessels can go not only to Detroit, but also to the Great West by the large upper lakes of Superior and Michi- gan, and having direct railway communication with the St. Lawrence, and also with the Northern and Eastern States, Buffalo presents overj'' promise of increasing im- portance and thrift. It first became a settlement of white men in 1800 ; in 1814 it was only a small village, surrounded by thick forests ; in 1825 it had only 2000 inhabitants ; but since then, through the formation of the Erie Canal, which opened the navigation between the Atlantic and the upper lakes, its increase has been amazing. Three times within thirty years it has doubled its population, and it now contains as many as 80,000 inhabitants. Its situation by Lake Erie secures to it both pleasing views and refreshing breezes. After having viewed Buffalo, we took the railway- train for Niagara Falls, and passed through several small towns and villages, having the Niagara lliver flowing smoothly at our left. In little more than an hour we passed through Niagara village, crossed the new suspension bridge over the deep chasm of the river, and landed at the railway station on the Canada si'lo. mm y- I I '.! '- 1 ll 1 K ■ 326 PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, ETC. "VVe engaged a coach, drove towards Clifton House, and as we went, knowing that we were now in the British dominions, we took oif our hats, and, with loyal hearts, together exclaimed aloud, " God save the Queen ! " We soon had our rooms selected, and, making as little delay as possible, you may be sure, went out to have our first gaze at the giant cataracts, the deep ponderous sound of which we could now distinctly hear. ro; House, and bhe British )yal hearts, een!" We little delay ve our first }rou8 sound '■1k - i ttmn 'i w jii " mu m '^i X LETTER XIX. THE TALIS OF NIAGARA. Source of the Falls from the Great Lnkcs — The River of Niagara — The \Vliirl])0(i1 — The Rapids — Goat Island — The American Fall — Luna Island — 'I'he Middle Fall — The Canada, or "Ilorse-slioc" Fail — Retrogression of llic Fulls according to Geologists — View of the Fulls from the Hotel Jjulcony — View from the River Bank — From "Prospect I'luce" — From tlio Bridge over the Rapids — Landing on Goat Island — " Prospect Tower ' — The "Cave of Winds" — The Fulls by Moonlight — Legends and Tales of Horror respecting the Falls. ./ I AM now in the presence of this great overpowering wonder of creation — the Falls of Niagara. I have been here three days, viewing it from all points, until my mind is filled with it, and now, from the hotel window, from whence I can see it, and from amid so much of its ceaseless sound as seejns to miiko the earth tremble under the building, and which shakes the window-frame of this my chamber, I attempt to describe it. I I'oel the attempt to bo almost hopeless, for M'ords can never describe this overwbelming spectacle, nor express the mingled sensations of awe and delight with wliicli it Is behold. I have here felt more than ever the exeelling giandeiir of the works of (J^od us compared with the works of man. One may have experienced deep and Folcnm emotion in visiting Kiiglish and foreign catlie- drals — viewing them in their long- retiring perspective n ' I 1 • r! ii 328 THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. of columns and arches, of nave and choir, of transept and aisles — under varying and changeful lights, or coloured with slanting reflections of richly-stained win- dows, at noon of day, or darkened into gloomy and frowning grandeur at the approach of night ; but the contemplation of God's workmanship, which man can neither alter or adorn, is productive of far more profound and indescribable feeling and thought. I felt it to be so when you and I together viewed the stern uninhabitable Alps, which rise so far above the paths of men, and seem themselves to inhabit the heavens — those Alps, which, when once viewed, ever afterwards ** stand fast" before the mind as the everlasting hills which cannot be moved, and as the abiding proof of the Divine omnipotence. It was so with the ocean, as I saw it in our outward voyage to this continent — that dread infinity of " many sounding" waters has a voice for the soul which language cannot express. And it is so with Ni : ia : there is a might and majesty in it which irresistili^ iway the soul of man, and make him feel his own insignificance, and the littleness of all — even of the greatest works of his race. Before coming to view the Falls, wo were repeatedly warned by our friends against yielding to a feeling of disappointment at first sight. JJut though in most things where high expectations are entertained the imagination usually exceeds the reality, it was not so with us and Niagara ; indeed, it is diflicult to under- stand how expectation could surpass this scene. When it first burst on our sight wo felt it to be unspoakubly sublime; and as wo have viewed it from various standing- points day tiftor day, our wonder and deliglit have never abated. We have scarcely tliought of anything else by day, and we liave had no real sleep by night ; rushing THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. 329 cataracts have always been before the mind, whether we have been in slumber or broad awake — we seem to live in a sort of reverie with waterfalls. When in the immediate presence of this marvel we are all agitation — our awe approaches to terror — the blood seems to be sent back with overpowering pressure to its fountain — we stand gasping for breath, mute and powerless, and are some minutes before we can do anything but gaze, and before we can begin to contemplate. I believe it to be impossible for words, however skil- fully employed, to express the feelings and thoughts with which Niagara is viewed. It must be seen for these to be known. The most moderate and defective language will seem exaggeration to those who have not been where we now are. I am not sure that what I now write will not, even to you, seem to be such ; but I must, in this instance, be willing to pay the unavoidable penalty of being deemed too emotional, and console myself with the thought that nearly all who come after nie will irresistibly and inevitably find themselves in the same case. Yet I must attempt something like u narrative description. The Falls of Niagara are the headlong plunp;insr of an immeasurable mass of waters, wliich fl' sv ('own from the Great Lakes enumerated in my lufct I^ tter, and wliicli here suddenly ])recipitate themselves over immense shelves of rocks down into the river or r^trait below. From thence they liurry onward to unite tlieniselvcs with the lower waters of liako Ontario, which empties itself into the St. Lawrence, from wlicnce, winding amidst a thousand ishinds, the outlet is into the vast Atlantic. The source of this im- nionso volume of water ia in the rocky region of the north-west of the American continent. It is estimated ismaassss ,u ^" 330 THK FALLS OP NIAGARA. that Niagara dminR un area of not less than 40,000 square miles, and is connected with half the entire quantity of the fresh water of the globe. The waters of the four largo inland soas — Lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie, with all tho rivers and streams flowing "nto them — all pass onwards by this course, which, in their narrow, deep bod botwsen Lake Erie and Lake Ontario is named "tho River of Niagara." The dis- tance between thcso two lakes (and, consequently, the length of this river) is about thirty-seven miles, and its entire descent from the basin of Lake Erie to that of Lake Ontario is JJ.'H fout. -At about twenty miles from Lake Erie, across the entire bed of the descending river, occurs a sudden l)ro(ik in the rock, where the waters fall 160 feet downwards over the perpendicular cliffs, and these are culled tho Falls of Niagara. The river, as it leaves Ivuko Erie, is about a mile in width, and flows but lazily along at first, between low and marshy banks, and almoHt in a straight line, being dotted with many smiill islets. It widens, however, in some places as it approadies tho l''alls to nearly three niles. Then, when it has puMHcd tho Falls, it suddenly narrows excec.ingly; for irnttudiafoly below them the river is confined within a gorgo of only three-quarters of a mile wide, and IIium it flows oDwards in its straitened channel, in a more siu'pontiiio course, to Luke Ontario. In the upper part, or bcl'ore it reaches the Falls, the river is comparutivr until they stand on end with several feet out of th j vcr, and tl'en sink down and disappear entirely. It is supposed ihat tliis is one of those cavernous hollows where ' water ':'<»Si,? 332 THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. either rushes ii}> from a fiubterranean passage beneath the bed of ii\e ri^-t'", or sinks v/hirling down from the channel above into ^he vaulted .'ream below. Whether cither lide of liii^ tb .'^ry ^ ^i tv'A.\ r whether the strange tnrmojl there is caused oy tho river making a sharp bend ill its narrow rock-bound channel at nearly a right- angle, J am not competent to pronounce, 1 can only say that the sight of the " troubled wate) i " t) ere is very impressive. As thu floods hurled over the Falls rise up from the huge poet.ung cauldrc- into which they liave been pre- cipifcati d, and ist'ir; forth into the lower river to flow towards tins whirlpool, and then in a widening channel to Lake Ontario, they do not toss themselves into waves, but move heavily along, as if stimned by their fearful descent, or as if " Astoundt'd and amazed ; No wonder: fall'u such a pernicious heiglit." Paralysis socras to succeed the sudden shock. But this is only temp- irary. As the river descends in its course it recovers strength and buoyancy, and at length hurries rapidly towards its destined receptacle, Lake Ontario. The rate at which the River of Niagara travels from one lake to the other is from two to eight miles per hour, according to the nature of the declivities and angles met with in its passage. Immediately above the Falls are what are termed ** The Rapids." These are tumultuous descents of the water over u succession of rocky shelves towards the giant pre- cipice of the Falls. Within one mile's space the stream thus descends, by a succession of slopes, as much as 50 or GO fc'^<^. ^ud also narrows itself, as I have sh'. 1, i-Viii about tbv;' jiiiles in width to tliT-ee-four* ■ • u a mile. All aloP' iourney over these rocky sh ivos, tlie speed of '^e i" i. is, of course, much accelerated, its waters THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. e333 rage furiously, toss and iipheave themselves into the air, and seem to battle madly with each other in their fated course to the margin of the precipice which awaits them. About half way up the Rapids, the raging waters are divided into two moving masses by the intervention of an island called " Goat Island," which lies nearly in the middle of the river, and extends its north-western extre- mity to the very edge of the grand precipice, and thus makes of Niagara two great falls of water. The body of water between this island and the American shore is named "The American Fall," and the body of water between Goat Island and the Canadian shore is termed "The Canada Fall." Tlie American Fall is 900 feet in breadth, and the water descends nearly perpendicularly over a precipice of 164 feet in depth. This fall, by the intervention of another and much smaller island, called " Luna Island," from the lunar rainbows seen on it by night, is divided for the space of 30 feet into another cataract, which boars the name of " The Middle Fall," and is a fall of crystal clearness and beauty. The Canada Fall is as much as 1800 feet in breadth, without any intervention in any part, and with a deep bend in the surface line, formerly in the shape of a horse-shoe (whence it is called "The Ilorse-shoe Fall"), but now worn to the figure of a demi-hexagon ; and its vast body of waters descend less perpendicularly, or witli a greater projectile curve, over cliffs If 8 feet deep. The greatest volume cf water rushes over the Canada Fall, and it is by far the grandest and most impressive spectacle — though, if the American Fall were alone, it would be reckoned one of th^ greatest wonders of creation. As much as seven-eighths of the whole dotiLcnding water r lis over the Caruida lull ; i-nd that with a pro- THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. jecting curve of not less than twenty feet at the edge of the precipice. This sweeping curve-line, with the glancing sun-light upon its ever-moving crest, and its constant variety of translucent colours, give the Canada Fall an aspect of more commanding attraction than that of its neighbour. The American Fall can only boast of a straight line, which, as every one knows, is never favourable to beauty. And then, again, while wanting that gracefully sweeping curve of rolling waters over the edge of the precipice, its cataract does not, as in the Canada Fall, pour itself into an abyss of con- vulsed and fathomless waters, white as molten silver — but plunges among fragments of dark fallen rocks, from whence it winds its way into the lower river. From the foot of both the Falls, however, clouds of white mist or spray, like fine steam, ascend high up into the air in curling wreaths, until they seem to mingle with the clouds of heaven. In this respect the "Horse-shoe" Fall is still greatly superior to the American; the cloud of shining vapour hanging over it proclaims to travellers far distant that they are approaching this wonder ; and, no doubt, it calls up before the imagina- tion of some of them, as it did with me, that Pillar of the Cloud which hung over the Tabernacle in the Wil- derness, and which preceded the march of the Israelites to the Promised Land. According to Sir Charles Lyell, and other geologists, the Falls of Niagara have gradually retrograded north- wards, having eaten their way backwards from Queens- ton, which is seven miles distant from the present Falls, four miles beyond the Whirlpool, and about half way between the present Falls and Lake Ontario. This conclusion of men of science is a very probable one ; for the action of the immense volume of water wh ch pours THE FALLS OP NIAGARA. 33.1 at the edge le, witli tlie rest, and its the Canada :action than ill can only lie knows, is again, while oiling waters ; does not, as ibyss of con- olten silver — jn rocks, from river. From , of white mist into the air in ngle with the "Horse-shoe" .merican ; the t proclaims to jroaching this e the imagina- , that Pillar of cle in the Wil- f the Israelites ther geologists, :ograded north- s from Queens- m the present and about half Ontario. This •obable one ; for itev wV'ch pours over the precipices at the rate of 20 millions of cubic feet per micnte, with the stupendous weight of 100 millions of tons per liour, must of necessity " wear away stones," and so remove the Fulls farther and farther upwards. No person can examine, even cursorily, the strata of the Falls and the bed of the river, without per- ceiving that the process of disintegration, or gradual abrasion and removal of both rocks and soil, has long been going on, as it is going on at the present time. The ponderous body of water which teems over the precipice falls from a lioight as great as that of the front towers of York Catliodval. The upper ledge is of hard limestone rock, and the immediately underlying bed consists of slaty shale in horizontal layers, which is perpetually crumbling away. Blasts of wind, charged with the spray that is constantly risin.^ from the fathom- less abyss under the cataract, strike against this bed of perishable shales, and, together with the expansive agency of frosts, incessantly cruml/' j and force it away from under tau calcareous rock, and k '^f tbe limestone to project without support. Through tl)i operation of these agencies, there is now a passage behind the falling waters of the Horse-sLoe Fall of 60 foet wide in some parts ; hither adventurous visitors go for a 1< igth of 100 feet, upon a slippery path, to be immersed iu spray and sand-dust, while they have the concav*. recesses and worn-away limestone on the one hand, and the crystal veil of the descending flood, through which the light giii-^ns. on the other. From time to timO;, the unsupportjd rock falls in large hiasses headlong '!nto tlie profound abyss below, and into the bed of the river around, with a sound the most t Trific. Such a full occurred on the American side in 1818, and again iu 1843 ; and on the Canadian side in im^"^ 336 THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. t il I 1828. In 1852, a large portion of the Horse-shoe ledge fell, and left a severed mass, 150 feet high, re- maining erect. On all these occasions, it is affirmed, the surrounding district was shaken as if by an earth- quake. Parts of the fallen rocks still remain at the foot of both the cataracts, and appear like the over- thrown relics of a Cyclopean wall. Living men, of aa van^d years, who from childhood have resided in the neighbourhood, affirm that in their time the Horse- shoe Fall has receded as much as 150 feet. An early print, made from a drawing by Father Hennepin, in 1678, confirms this statement, and shows another fall jetting out obliquely from the Canadian cliff, where the "Table Rock" has since fallen: with the Table Ilock the oblique jet has wholly disappeared. Every intelligent observer may ascertain for himself, that the appearance of the disintegrated strata (along this space of 150 feet, ^vhich is said to have been worn away within the memory of living men"^ as seen at the sides of the ravine, are precisely of the b. ne character as that of the seven miles gorge which has been gradually excavated backwards from Queenston to the present Falls ; while, at several points, he will find unmistake- able wearings of an overflowing flood of waters : so that the probability, if not certainty, is with the con- clusion of geological science, that the Falls have gra- dually receded through the seven miles chasm up to their present position, and have scooped out for them- selves the deep and rocky ravine through which the river now flows from them soiithwards. . The only difficulty in the way of this conclusion is the length of time required for tlie process. For, if 150 feet have been worn away within the memory of living men, it would require 10,000 years at least (Lyell fU: e Hor8e-shoe feet high, re- it is affirmed, by an earth- ■emain at the ike the over- ving men, of ive resided in me the Horae- !et. An early Hennepin, in s another fall jliff, where the le Table Hock in for himself, ^ata (along this 3en worn away en at the sides aracter as that )een gradually ,0 the present ind unmistake- of waters: so with the con- ^alls have gra- s chasm up to out for them- uffh which the .s conclusion is rocess. For, if the memory of 3 at least (Lyell FALLS OF NIAGARA. 337 i-«^- -•■ m- o u o y, a Y. o u X o < c 'a 5 .J < a says 35,000 !) for the Falls to have reached their present situation. But, without encroaching on the Scriptural chronology of the world in this instance (if the first verse of the Bible is not to be separated, as a general statement respecting the creation of all things), since it cannot be proved that the rate of the abrading power upon the rocks has never been swifter than it is at present, the difficulty of time, even with the most tenacious liolder by the old chronology, need not prevent the conclusion of science on this question. Another question may arise in the mind, as to the number of years that would be required to bear back the Falls, at their present rate of recession, through the twenty miles which intervene between them and Lake Erie. But the geological survey recently made may save us the trouble of a calculation : the limestone rock dips northward towards Lake Erie, and at the distance of two miles — if the Falls recede so far — the limestone will be at the base, the ledge incomparably low. - 'han it is at present, the weight of water incomparably "^^ ' 1, most likely, the recession would cease altogetlvi ^i \\ at least, Is the opinion of the first living lo ;i- - The accompa. \ying ideal bird's-eye view ri ii,( ^> of the Niagara waters, from Lake Erie to Lakt) vhiiui" as suggested by Sir Charles Lyell in his Geograi^h-cal Observations on America, will explain to you, at a glance, both the position of the Falls, and the character of the bed of the river down which their volume flows. But whatever the supposed facts of the formation and process of this great phenomenon of nature may be, undoubtedly it is one of the most stupendous and over- whelming of all the works of the Almighty. If a visitor to these shores were to see nothing else, it would be z 338 THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. ;i' worth his transit over half tht convex world. Dr. Hannah and I commenced our survey, on the morning of our arrival, without any preconcerted pla: . We agreed simply on one thing — that we would not hurry from point to point, hut would deliberately view it in its various features, until we should have received into our minds as full an impression of its solemn grandeur as possible. And this has proved our best course. We have now walked and sauntered around it for nearly four days : we have stood before it on fallen masses of rock, under its white drizzling spray, until, with sight bedazzled and eai's confounded, we could almost imagine that we were witnessing a world of waters come tum- bling down out of a rent in the firmament, or that Chaos were come again ; and we have watched it with greater calmness at a more respectful distance. The general scene, as beheld oven from the balcony of the hotel where I am writing, is magnificent. Yet this view of the Falls being from an elevated point, and at a distance, is not so overpowering in its awful effect as that taken from a lower stand-point and in closer con- tiguit)' svith the great wonder. Here, from the hotel balcony, tlio vision is that of a panorama of cataracts. The llorse-shoe Fall is directly before us — an extended line of overflowing waters, reaching across and filling up the whole breadth of the yawning chasm between one bank of the river and Goat Island. The American Fall is on our left, separated from the Canadian Fall by that ishmd, and divided by Luna Island into oik> expansive cataract, and another of more slender breadth. Tlio water, as seen rolling over the rocky ledge ut this distance, appears like moving sheets of snow-white foam, varied at intervals • ith gleaming crystal and THE FALLS OP NL4.GARA. 339 svorld. Dr. the morning L pla: - We Id not liurry sly view it in received into gmn grandeur i course. We it for nearly lien masses of til, with sig^t almost imagine ers come tum- t, or that Chaos it with greater n the balcony of cent. Yet this point, and at a awful elfect as in closer con- from the hotel na of cataracts, an extended OSS and lilling chasm between The American . Canadian Fall Island into one slender breadth, ky ledge at this of snow-white ng crystal aud IS emerald. The background beyond the Horse-shoe Fall, and on the right, is a richly-wooded elevation sprinkled with villa-like buildings. The clothing of the forest trees on Goat Island, and of the shrubbery on the shelving sides of the river, is a rich spring green ; while from both the great cataracts rise clouds of spray that steam high up into the air, are wreathed by the wind into spiral forms, and then disperse imperceptibly, or join the overhanging vapours in the heavens. I have sketched and coloured this view, from the hot'^l balcony, considering that, though it is not the most impressive, yet it may be regarded ac the most explana- tory view of the Falls that could be selected to present to the eye of a non-observer. When we first descended from the balcony of our hotel, we advanced towards the Horse-phoe x'all along the Canadian clifl". We then returned to the point im- mediately on the left, by our hotel, and winding down upon a carriage road formed at the side of the river, wo took the ferry -boat, and ci ossed over to the bank on the American side, that we might view the general scene from thence. In crossing, we found the river, which looked peacefull)'' smooth from ab(jve, to be variously agitated and heavy in its descending current. Our skiff seemed a mere cockle-shell in the disturbed waters ; but our strong-armed foriymau pulled us over, with our bow pointed against the flow of the current, and in ten minutes landed us at th* foot of the wooden stair- case on the other side of the river. In our short pas- 'sagc the spray from the cataracts fell thit-kly upt)n us, and partially obscured our view of the Fulls ; biit this served to heighten the effect, by veiling the grand object iu mysterious folds. 340 THE FALLS OF NIAQARA. vh Having landed on the American side, we ascended by the wooden staircase of 300 steps to the cliffs, — passing out at intervals to view the American Fall in its huge profile, — and on reaching the top we stood on a picturesque and frequented piece of ground, called " Prospect Place," doubtless on account of the impres- sive view here to be obtained of the Falls. Standing at the side of the American Fall, and looking over its vast body of waters as they rush down from the Rapids at your left, and roll over the edge of the precipice at your right into the gulf jeneath, you see the great Canadian Fall, with its long reach of snowy foam in front, skirled and backed with trees and verdant embankments, and with its column of half-transparent spray hovering before it and ascending on high. We had this view daguerreotj^Ded, with Dr. Hannah and myself in the foreground — for such is the regularity even in the in- dentations and foldings of these ever-moving waters, that they may be successfully transferred by the sun- light to the chemically prepared plate. But it is impos- sible to give, even with this accurate representation by the sun itself, the accompanying impression of resistless and overwhelm ill g power which is experienced by the spectator in the presence of this great work of the Creator : such profound feeling cannot bo transferred by any art, however skilful or true. Upon the perfect accuracy of the lines of the scene, as you will see them in the daguerreotype, you may, however, confidently rely. After lingering a considerable time over the view from Prospect Place, we picked our way eastwards by the side of the Anierif-an Rapids, until w(^ reached a long wooden bridge, which undaunted and persevering; man has thrown over the lesser breadth of these turbu- TUE FALLS OP NIAGARA. 341 lent waters, that he may have an entrance to Goat Island. Here, perhaps, from the middle of this bridge, which trembles with the violent rush of the water over the rocky shelves beneath it, you have as impressive a view of the Rapids as can possibly be obtained ; for though the amount of water rusliing over the American Rapids and under you, as you stand on this bridge, is only one-seventh of the moving mass which descends over the Rapids to the llorse-shoe Fall, yet, as there is no bridge over the Canadian Rapids, there is no middle point for seeing them. The comparative narrowness of the channel which is spanned by this bridge renders the waters more tumul- tuous, and from this stand-point on the safe but trem- bling bridge, the vision of the Rapids is really sublime. There is a solemn grandeur in the wildness of the waves that thrills one's whole nature. They arc broken into every variety of fu rm, as they rubh over their shelving bed ; some of them leap perpendicularly many feet, and rear their foaming crests in the air, far above tlie horizontal lino of view, showing th.>mselves in their whirling fury strongly against the background of the sky, and catching at every change of form and posture gleaming jn-ismatic lights from the sun. Others rush heudlong over their broken bed, as if too sullenly reso- lute on reaching without delay the edge of the great gulph, to linger even for a moment and upheave them- selves into 8i)0uling billows. Tlx) entire spectficle of these wild, tumultuous waters, extending up to the very heavcms on one hand, and down below to the precipice ou the other, and reflecting in their raging and midtiplying i'orins the various hues of sky and trees, is indescribublo in its cllect upon the mind of the beliolder. TUB FALLS OF NIAGARA. Crossing tlio long wooden bridge, we landed on Goat Inland- This island contains about sixty acres of forest land, and is about a mile in circumference. Wheie you first stop upon it from the bridge there is a picturesque cottage, with a garden on the left, and a factory-like paper-mill by its side on the right For the greater part the isiot is thickly wooded with forest- trees of large growtli. Wo hustoned along a colonnade of these to the north-wcHtorn point of the islet, singularly named " Tlog's JJaik," where there is a most charming and impressive vUm looking down the deep gorge of the river. The profiles of the Am n Falls, divided by the lovely islet of Luna, are imi,. jtely in front ; and the graceful 8usj)enMion bridg- if 800 feet span, with its double floor, and swinging on u^ slender cables, is also before you. I traced this scene also in my sketch-book, and whil<< ho doing, a most beautiful rainbow shone out in its prisnuitic (colours amidst the ascending spray from the fall, and seemed to corroborate the suitableness of another name whidi is sometimes bestowed on the islet of Luna, that of " Iris Island." From thonco wo took a narrow path, by the side of the river, leading to the Horse-shoe I'all (passing what I liavo since visitf-d alone — the descent to the eastern shore (if . in their solemn majesty, which ought to be viewed alone, — scenes where the presence of another seems an intrusion, and where a passing footstep would dissolve the solemn charm. And when in the presence of this great wonder of creation, the spell under which the admiring soul is bound ought not to be broken, even by the voice of loved compa- nionship. Man feels himself to be here most veritably in the awffil presence of the Almighty and Infinite Source of Being, and he would stand before his Creator and worship in silence. Without any agreement for this. Dr. Hannah and I, before inseparable in American scenes, have obeyed this instinctive feeling, and fre- quently paced our way separately and alone around this scene. And as I have stood at parts before it to gazo and contemplate, I have thought of the great Sir Isaac Newton, who, by his contemplation of the stupendous works of creation, was so filled with reverence for the matchless Maker, that he aniformly took off his hat at the mention of God's name. So, in silent adoration before God at the Falls of K^iagara, man may well uncover his head and worship. Infinity and Almighty power are here the great impression. Voices from innumerable past ages sound in its ever- flowing waters, and the future of its continuance seems to have no limit but the end of time. Infinite variety and diver- sity are seen in all its parts, and irresistible and over- whelming ])ower are everywhere apparent. Niagara is, in fact, the true sublime ; and like the true sublime ■^'.L. THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. 345 in other things, it is, with all its rush and fall of waters, calm and majestic. It is not hurried and confounding. It does not seem to put forth all its might. And its vast booming, which resounds for miles distant, is still the voice of majesty. It does not bawl or strain ; it is not like any other sound of earth, air, or sea ; for it is a voice deep — profoundly deep and unbroken. It is "the voice of many waters and of mighty thunderings ;" and after all that has been written and sung concerning it by gifted travellers and poets, the Iroquois Indians' simple name for it is its best description — Niagara, or " the Thunder of Waters." The appearance of the Falls, and the scenery around them, when beheld by moonlight have an exceedingly impressive and subduing eifect. The whole is then flooded with soft silvery brightness, which harmonises the scene, and renders it more spiritual in its aspect. The harsher lines of the rocks and cliffs are softened down ; the river flows in its deep bed as if it were molten silver ; the trees stand as in dreamy repose ; the cataracts themselves have a subdued lustre ; and the very sound of the Falls, by its softened cadence, seems to be in sympathy with the scene. But I am told that the spectacle in winter is surpas- singly grand and wonderful. And from what I have seen hero of daguerreotype views taken by an uccom- plislicd artist at that season, I fully believe it to be so. In the coldest periods the body of water continues, of course, to descend as usual ; but above the Ilapids, and at a n ile or so below the cataracts, the river is frozen over, 80 tiiat passengers go over it on foot. The water ruslics from under the ice of the upper level to supply the 346 THE FALLS OP NIAGARA. k'. i| ' Falls, and then passes again under the ice of the river below, to flow, undercover of it, to Lake Ontario, which, as well as Lake Erie above, is entirely frozen over in midwinter. lu its course from above, the descending water brings with it huge boulders of ice, many tons in weight, and precipitates them over the Falls, where they accumulate until they sometimes get progressively piled up even higher than the Falls themselves. Mean- while the cataracts keep for themselves a free passage between the edge of the precipice, over which they roll, and the wall of ice and snow before the :i. i'he re- mains of one of these winter-screens aro now to be seen in large dimensions at the foot of the American Fall, and appears as represented in the sketch from the hotel balcony. But the appearance of the rocks, and cliffs, and trees at that season, as depictured in the daguerreotyped views which I have seen, is especially striking. The rocks and cliffs appear hooded and cloaked with ice and snow. The trees, retaining the drifted particles of frozen spray from the cataracts, accumulate upon their stems and branches masses and bunches of gleaming ice, until they assume the most grotesque and significant forms. The forest bends, as it were, under the fruits of ice with which it is laden ; while the smaller trees and shrubs on the margin of the river get filled up with statue-like shapes, and stand like nuns in snow-white vestments to do saintly homage in tiiis Scandinavian temple. Of course there are legends and tales of horror told in connection with the paths and precipices of this scene of terrific majesty. In the rear of Goat Island there are several sentimental-looking islets that lie side by side covered with moss and jhrubbery, and divided ^ if ,. THE FALL8 OP NIAGARA. 317 tales of horror told precipices of tins rear of Groat Island g islets that lie side ubbery, and divided by feathery like fulls, which are associated with love- scenes, boi,h of lifo and death. There are solitary patches of ground in tho midst of the Rapids, and cul- tivated plots on tho island, that ai*e shown by Niagara guides as having boon inhabited by an eccentric hermit, who, wearied with tho dissipations of fashionable life, built h';-^" f'"" hinisolf u log-hut, and lived in voluntary solitude until ho was drowned while bathing in the river below, llospccting almost every prominent point thi re ; '9 relations given of perilous falls, surprising rescues, ai d instantaneous deaths that thrill the listener. At llog's i)ack, in addition to the united deaths of two lovely young porsonn swept over the middle cataract, a Dr. Ilungerford is said to have been suddenly precipi- tated, by a falling piece of the clilf, into the river below, whom ho sunk to rise no more alive. Near Biddle Stairs, a madman, named Sam Patch, leaped from a scaflbld ninoty-six feet high, and afterwards attempting u moro during feat still, was drowned. From the frail narrow bridge wliich extends from the south- west corner of lo island to Prospect ToAver, a gentle- man is said : > luivo boon swept by the wind into the current, and yv to have been rescued from an arresting rock at tho very brink of the precipice. In Indian times ttii annual human sacrifice to the Great Spii'it was sent over the great cataract in a canoe ; and. as might bo expected, " the chief's lovely daughter " v-i named among these sacrifices in the legends. I'iJiaoiM aituatioMs, surprising rescues, and friglitful deatliH, urn spoken of in connection with the islands in the Itupids, As late as 1844 a youthful lady, stooping lo pick up a flower from the margin of tho Canadian side of tho river near to the Ilorse-shoc 348 THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. V. / ?'!? Fall, is jaici to have been plunged with the crumbling soil into the destructive gulf below. There are also caves in different parts of the rocky sides of the river that have names of heroes and super- natural beings associated with them. Some of these caves are grotesquely festooned with petrified moss and stalactites of carbonate of lime. Others of them, like the " Cave of Winds " behind the middle Fall, are fearfully stormy and turbulent. There are also stories of desperate battle between Indians and Europeans, and Englishmen and Americans, associated with this scene ; and though one would not be over credulous, or so voluntarily superstitious as to receive for facts all that one hears in this locality of wonders, yet who that has any sense of the marvellous within him would doggedly close his ears against the stories of the Niagara guides ? It would strip life of many of its flowers, if everything were brought down to proved reality. Who would wish to dissever the Lakes of Kil- larney from the legends of O'Donoghue and his attend- ant sylphs ? Who would stay to have Rob Roy's hiding-places in the caves around Loch Lomond all shown to have no existence ? Who would desire to have the beautiful tale of William Tell proved to be, what some have of late affirmed it to be, an entire fiction? No ; life must not be denuded of all its poetry, and entirely reduced to leaden, dull prose. Niagara may be permitted to have its traditionary legends as well as its authentic stories. But whatever may be j;rue or false in what is related as belonging to it in years gone by, it is now in itself, and apart from all fictitious accompaniment, a sublime reality. h the crumbling LETTER XX. CANAD - >T.EYAN CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE. Railway froi j; the Line of the Niagara River — Lake Ontario — Arrival ;u Alethodist Friends — Sabbath Services at Toronto — Sketch of Toronto — Great Normal Schools — Dr. Rycrson — Illness of Peter Jones, or " Kahkevvaquonaby," the Methodist Indian Chief — Cana- dian Parliament — Mackenzie, and Scene in the House of Representatives — Loyal Attachment of Canada to England — Lake Ontario, the " Thousand Islands," and the St. Lawrence — Arriviil at Brockville — Proceedings of the Conference — Railways in Canada — Resources and Prosperity of the • Country — Arrival at Montreal. all its poetry, and oso. Niagara may y legends as well as er may be J;ruo or to it in years gone from all fictitious AVe left the lalls for Toronto at noon of Saturday, May 31, travelling by the train as far as Lewiston, and from thence by steamer across the western end of Lake Ontario. When passing Queenston, seven miles from the Falls, we could see on its heights the monument erected to the memory of General Brock, a British officer, who received there a mortal wound, when, in 1812, he was about to lead his men to the conflict. It is a high columnar monument, something like our Nelson's in Trafalgar Square, and is of very recent erection — the former monument having been shuttered and destroyed by some unknown person, who, in the night, blew it up with gunpowder. It was interesting to trace the bed of the Niagara River as we passed along, and to observe how it had worn its way through the strata of the country, and united itself with the lake. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A m// fe ^^"^ /- f/j 1.0 I.I 1^ 111112.2 140 2.0 m '•25 1.4 III 1.6 ^1 6" ► Photograpliic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WIBSTIR.N Y )4SI0 (716) 173-4503 -t^> %i.6 [/. ^^ 350 CANADA— CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE. On reaching the pier at Lewiston, we took the steam- boat across the lake to Toronto, a distance of 50 miles. Leaving the American Niagara Fort on our right, we started in a " tight " and commodious vessel, with the British flag streaming from the stern, and with fifty or sixty passengers on board. The day was exceedirgly fine, and we enjoyed the lake scenery very much. Our company, too, was more English than it had been since we landed in America, especially in manners. There was less inquisitiveness, and less hurry, and more sobriety and quietness. After three hours' passage, we neared the city of Toronto, which stands at the head of a large open bay, and, being met by ministers and friends at our landing, we drove with them direct for the house of the President of the Canadian Methodist Conference, the Rev. Enoch Wood, like ourselves a native of homely old Lincolnshire. Ho resiJes in a pleasant cottage in the upper suburbs of the city. We were most cordially welcomed by him and his family, and it was proposed that both Dr. Hannah and I should be his guests. But a friend from Dublin soon learned of our arrival, and insisted that I should accompany her to her hospitable home. From pleasing reminiscences relating to the " Sister Island," I was nowise reluctant to do so. Dr. Egerton llyerson, and his daughter, just returned from England (where she liad been presented to the Queen), spent the evening with us ; and with such companions, together with Mr. Ilodson, the intelligent husband of my cheerful and youthful hostess, the evening was exceedingly pleasant. The unexpected meeting with former friends in a far country, and among a crowd of strangers, is a pleasure that can only be estimated from experience. ! I CANADA— CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE, 351 On the Sabbath morning Dr. Hannah conducted the service in Richmond Street Chapel, and preached to a crowded and admiring congregation an eloquent sermon on the Priesthood of Christ; it was full of divine unction, and was delivered with amazing energy and power. In the evening, I preached to a multitude in the same chapel, and afterwards assisted in administering to several hundreds the sacrament of the Lord's Supper. The services here were thoroughly English in all respects. The chapel is large, and in a good style of Grecian architecture. It will hold, I suppose, fifteen hundred persons; but it has one fault — copied, I pre- sume, from some recent erections in England : the entrance is at the end where the pulpit stands, so that the minister is disturbed by cold draughts of air from the door every time it is opened, and by the entrance and exit of the congregation, while the worshippers have their attention arrested by everything that transpires at the doors in connexion with persons coming in late or going out early. Under such an arrangement, no Sabbath-stroller is likely to enter the house of God to hoar the saving truths of the Gospel as he passes, for ho would have to face the whole audience to do so. Nor can a mother with a crying infant retire without dis- turbing both the minister and people. Dr. Hannah also preached in the evening at another large Methodist chapel in the city, and administered there the sacrament of the Lord's Supper. We enjoyed the day greatly, feeling so much of home in our services. Wo hud, too, our own English hymn-book, unaltered and unmutiluted, and this was satisfactory. The number of liritish emigrants who gathered round us, and in- quired concerning England and friends, was very great. 352 CANADA— CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLB. !f- One of them came seventy-five miles, with his wife and child, to have his last-born infant baptised by Dr. Hannah. In the small vestry of Richmond Street Chapel I must have counted not less than twenty Methodists who had emigrated from our own county of Lincoln, and how many more there were in the general congregation who did not press into the crowded vestry to speak to me I cannot say. Most of them seemed " well-to-do," so far as I could judge from appearances ; but with all of them there were the same affecting remembrances of home and England that we found with English emigrants to the States. Childhood's home is nowhere forgotten. On Monday we visited the principal buildings and institutions in Toronto. Some of the streets, with their shops, will bear a comparison with the best streets in Liverpool, Manchester, or Birmingham. Several of the public buildings are in good architectural style, and imposing in their appearance. The cathedral, and some of the churches, are excellent Gothic structures in stone. The Methodists have severa' -excellent chapels, a well- furnished book-room, with ^" merous publications, and a weekly newspaper. The president has recently built a very neat Gothic chapel, with its belfry in front, near to his own dwelling : and, altogether, Methodism has a foremost place ni Toronto, among the different sections of the Christian Church. The Roman Catholics are strong in the city. They have their cathedral and their " religious houses," and have at the head of their priest- hood a French nobleman, who devotes himself and property to the interests of the Church of Rome. "NVe spent considerable time at the great Normal establishment for the schools of Canada, which is under :VILLE. Ith his wife and aptised by Dr. Lchmond Street 38 than twenty ir own county of re in the general 3 crowded vestry of them seemed om appearances ; e same affecting at we found with Idhood's home is ,al buildings and streets, with their le best streets in a. Several of the ctural style, and thedral, and some .ructures in stone. it chapels, a well- publications, and has recently built Ifry in front, near Methodism has a different sections ,an Catholics are [athedral and their jad of their priest- otes himself and _ of Rome, he great Normal ,a, which is under CANADA— CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE. 353 the able superintendency of the Rev. Dr. Egerton Ryer- son. This is the normal college for all the grammar and common schools, supported by the Government throughout Upper and Lower Canada, and is a most effective and flourishing institution. It is Dr. Ryerson's own creation, after careful inspection and comparison of the different systems of education in Europe and the United States, and must remain a lasting and honourable memorial of his enlightened and benevolent zeal for the best interests of the youth of his own country. The Government have, happily, been liberal in their grants for his object ; so that, in most respects, the funds required for the accomplishment of his plans are supplied. The buildings of the Normal and Pj'actising Schools, with the offices of the superintendents and clerks, are in an ele- vated situation, and have a large open space of garden- ground and walks round them. They are of Italianised Grecian style, and have a good facade with central turret, in connect^'on with the long line of public offices in front. The Practising Schools, with their class-rooms and theatre, are behind and in the wings ; the play- grounds are in the open spaces at the sides. We attended the (xercises in the different de- partments, and were much interested with the order and proficiency of the scholars ; but, above all, we were delighted to see that coloured children wv:e unreservedly mingled with the children of the whiles. The school system pursued is most like the national system of education for Ireland. This system does not secure by itself the religious and scriptural edu- cation of the scholars, but in its present superinten- dency the practice is better in this respect than the profession. Dr. Ryerson, as a mcthodist minister, is A A 354 CANADA.— CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE. evidently watching over this part of education, and, by his own arrangements and superintendency, to a great and admirable extent secures it. But we could not help inquiring with solicitude, " How shall this be secured in perpetuity, when it is not provided for in the system ? " We saw several of the Government day-schools in Toronto. They are neat substantial buildings, mostly of good white brick, with stone dressings, and have ample playgrounds attached to them. We afterwards dined at Dr. llyerson's, and found there, at his friend's house, the Rev. Peter Jones, or " Kuhkewaquonaby," the Methodist Indian chief who visited us in England some years ago. He is thin and sunken both in countenance and body, and is dying of consumption. But love to Christ and to the churches of England beamed from his dark eyes, and irradiated his tawny face, as he said to us, " Tell my friends of England that I die triumphing in the blood of a cruci- fied Redeemer." Dr. Hannah administered the sacra- ment of the Lord's Supper to him, to his wife, and to his friends ; and the solemn service in the dying chief's chiimber is truly memorable. With Dr. Ryerson, his wife, and Dr. Ryerson's mother, we had some lengthened conversation respecting Peter Jones and his Christian course. We learned that his fatlier was a Welshman, but that his mother, by whom he was brought up, is so thorough a " squaw," that she never could be persuaded to sleep on anything but her own blanket, however good or comfortable might be the bed in a house where she was visiting with her son. Peter was converted under the preaching of a missionary from the United States, as before related. He has since that time laboured uu- LLE. ition, and, by cy, to a great we could not Bhall this be Lded for in tbe day-scbools in ildings, mostly ngs, and bavo a's, and found Peter Jones, or ,dian chief wbo He is tbin and and is dying of to tbe cburcbes 8, and irradiated U wy frien, who took a promi- nent part in the Canadian rebellion of twenty years ago. lie is a thin, sharp, ferrety-looking nmn of more than sixty years of age, and sits ut his desk, watching, in Joseph- Hume-like style, everybody and everything. When any of the members on the (Jovorninont side can retort upon him, they evidently do so with great zest. * He dii'd on Sinuluy, (lie iJ\)lh of Jiiiic, in llii< lirt.v-fimi'lli yonr of his agv, and wus followed to \m buiiul hy iiuillitudvt of both rich niid poor. 'ArA) CANADA,- corrupt and ollouMivo by ago. Ilo Haid that liu wan tho ohU^ut nioinb(>r in tho houso, and lio had not in tho whole lohfj^th of hiH oxp(>rionco known anything no nanaoouMly oIlouHivo aw was tho prcsi^nt (jlovornniont. A nionibor on tho (lovonunont HJdo, by way of rojoindor, cxhibitod Muckonzit^ as an old rotton oabbafj^o, and, after 8howin>»; from iho donuigofj;uo*H political lifo, that Mao- kon/io had always boon a c()rru[>t tnoinbor of that houso, linisho'd with tho conclusion that, as ho was tho oldoat nnMubor and tho most corrupt, \u) was, on his own principle, tho most olfonsivo. Ijoud cries of "Hear, hear 1 " fron\ all sidi^s told that tho force of this repartee was almost nniversaliy felt, and Mackenzie tried to parry tho eifeist of the blow by pretendinf^ to join in tho general laugh, and by exclaiming aloud, " (jlood — very good!" but when his foe proceeded to administer still further castigation by similitudes, and likened him to u fusty old maid dressed np in man's clothing, and bothering everybody with his ridiculous ofliciiousncss and petty meddling, his face h)st its assiuned smiles, and (witched violently with chagrin. And when u French- man, in broken English, exclaimed uloud, in Macken- zie's own words and manner, "Good — very good!" tho roar of united laughter was overwhelming, and the old niau was for once, at least, thoroughly put down. It is plain, even to a casual observer, that the policy now pursued by lllngland in granting enlarged freedom and iudopcudout action to Canada has worked most suc- i"^ 1 fl rANADA.-CONFKRKNCK AT UllOOKVIIiLR. 3r>7 coHHfiiUy both for tho colony uiid for Mrifjlund itwolf. That u colony can Ihrivo, and tliut uhHoliiic " indopcndenco" is not ncccHHury to secure the proH^jority of a country, Ih proved by the (!xatnplo of Canada under the wihc policy to which 1 have alluded. The governor, oji opening the prcHent legislative HeHsion, congratulated the ecilony on the Hatiiifactory state of the flnaiK^OH, and on the in- creasing wealth of the country. This is a pleasing con- trust to the coniplainfH of debt under the old flysteni. And now, also, in the place of perpetual feuds between tli(! Upper and liower Canadians, and between French, 1 rish, and Mnglish settlers, and in the place of proposals and threats to unite with the States, there is a feeling of the very strongest and most enthusiastic loyalty towards Mnglund. (Jur sovereign and our country are toasted and lauded wherever they are named in Canada; and in all respects, ho far as wo can see, Canada is all tliat one can reasonably desire a IJritish colony to be. Jhit with HO vast an extent of territory, stretching, us Canada does, over the broadest part of North America, from the Atlantic to the J*aci(ic, and comprising more ground than the United States, it may to some minds seem impossible that such a country should contirr,« to be an appendage to the Jiritish dominions ; yet u 'he day of severance should come, largely peopled as Canada is with England's sons, and modelled as it is upon English laws and institutions, the parent will find in her child her own imago reflected, if not her youth renewed. Wo loft tlio city and our friends of Toronto, on Tuesday at noon, Juno f3rd, by the steamer which was to convey us over the length of Lake Ontario, through tlio Thousand Islands and bv the St. Lawrence, to 1<^ / 358 CANADA-CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE. P'^i i''' Brockville, where we were to attend the Wcsleyan Conference for Western Canada on Wednesday morn- ing. The president, and from twenty to thirty minis- ters, with numerous Methodist passenj^ers, were on board with us ; and we had good opportunities of con- versing with them upon both the country and its churches. The day was not very fine. Fog gathered round us at times, but it cleared away as we approached Cobourg, where, while fresh log-fuel was taken in, and numerous passengers wore exchanged, we could view the Victoria Wesleyan University which has been esta- blished there. It is a good, substantial, and imposing structure, with returned wings at the sides, and a cupola over the middle. There appears to be a consi- derable quantity of land belonging to it. With its accomplished president, professors, and tutors, it is a most respectable and effective institution. Its officials, and other ministers, came on board our steamer at Cobourg, and proved to be most interesting companions and friends. I rose before five o'clock the next morning, that I might view the " Thousand Isles," — as a number of islands extending from the foot of Lake Ontario, thirty miles down the St. Lawrence, are named. These islands are, in reality, more than IGOO in number, and they are surpassingly picturesque and lovely. They are of various sizes, some containing fifteen acres, and others only just visible, and bearing a single shrub, and they are of every form imaginable. But while richly adorned with trees and rocks, they have only a slight elevation above the water. The scenery of these islands, while threading your way among them, witli their varied shapes and colours, and with their clear KVILLE. the "Wcsleyan dnesday morn- ;o thirty minis- icrers, were on tunities of con- Duntry and its Fog gathered 3 we approached IS taken in, and we could view h has been esta- il, and imposing he sides, and a [•s to be a consi- ,o it. With its id tutors, it is a .on. Its officials, I our steamer at sting companions morning, that I -as a number of Lake Ontario, •e named. These in number, and id lovely. They fifteen acres, and a single shrub, able. Cut while hey have only a scenery of these nong them, with with their clear CANADA.-CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE. 359 reflections in the surrounding waters, you feel to be exceedingly beautiful ; and that it would well repay a voyage from England to the St. Lawrence to gaze upon such a sight alone. The " Thousand Island " scenery is more like Killarney than any that I have seen, but it is much more extensive. In steering through these isles it is an ever-changing vision — at one time you are inclosed in a narrow channel, then you see before you many openings, like so many noble rivers flowing in difierent directions, and immediately afterwards you are sur- rounded on every side as by a spacious lake. We arrived at Brockville by nine o'clock on Wed- nesday morning, and, with several other ministers attending the Canadian Conference, we were very hos- pitably entertained at the house of Mr. John Iloss. In another hour we went to the Wesleyan chapel, where, among the numbers of our brethren who were gathering from Western Canada, we recognised some whom we had known in our own country. Brockville is a homely sort of town on the northern bank of the River St. Lawrence. Neither the town nor the Wes- leyan chapel is large ; but Methodism flourishes amonj* the inhabitants, and Brockville is prosperous, and it may be judged that it is central from the fact of the Conference for Western Canada being held here. The president, with his co-delegates, the Rev. John Ryerson and the Rev Richard Jones, with Dr. E. Ryer- son, Dr. Green, and ourselves, sat within the communion- rails, and the ministers generally filled the pews on the ground-floor. The ministers were about 150 in number, and bore a very respectable appearance. There were more young and middle-aged men, proportionably, than are seen in our own Conference, or than we had seen V ! " 111' m f \.. ' 3G0 CANADA— CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE. in the General Conference of Delegates at Indianapolis. The aspect was more like that of a meeting of ministers for a large district, such as London or Manchester ; but it was thoroughly English in character. We were most kindly and respectfully introduced by the president, and most cordially received and wel- comed by the brethren. Dr. Hannah and I addrcbsed the Conference on the fraternal regard in which they were held by the English Methodists, and we re- ported to them the state of our churches and insti- tutions in England. We felt immediately at home with our Canadian brethren ; so much so, that we at times, almost unavoidably, took part in their delibe- rations. The only election to be made for the organisation of the Conference, was that of one secretary. This was soon done ; and here, as in the States, such an election is not made so much of as with us in the English Conference. The secretaryship is regarded almost entirely as a business office, and does not bring the holder into such close alliance with the president as it does with us. The business of the Canadian Con- ference was conducted in an orderly and able man- the brethren discussed their subjects freely, ner often displaying considerable logical and rhetorical power; and the president, with his co- delegates, gave good and weighty counsels. The only question I had of the entire wisdom and propriety of their pro- ceedings was in reference to their reception of ministers who are advanced in years from other parts. Their temptation to this is great ; for with them " the harvest truly is great, while the labourers are few." But their practice of receiving ministers of more than forty years CANADA.— CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE. 3G1 of age, with their families, while it evinces self-forget- ful zeal on the part of the Conference, may — and I should say must — ere long, prove oppressive upon the connexional funds. We spoke upon this both in and out of the Conference, and we were glad to observe that many of the most influential ministers are awake to this danger. In the evening Dr. Hannah preached, by request, before the Conference, on the prophetical investigation of the sufferings of Christ, and the glory that shall follow. He was not free from the effects of past excite- ment and over-labour, and I feared the consequences of the services upon him ; but he preached like an apostle, with all the fervour and glow of his own manner, and his ministration was exceedingly refreshing to us all. Next morning we took formal leave of the Conference, exchanging the most tender and affectionate salutations and greetings ; and bore away, from the crowd that thronged about us in the chapel to bid us farewell, many a token and message of love to parents, brothers, and sisters in England. The Rev. John Ryerson and Dr. Green accompanied us to the railway-station, and at twelve at noon we left Brockville by the train for Montreal. By taking this route we missed, to our great regret, the sight of the Shooting Rapids on the River St. Law- rence ; but we saw what we most desired to see — the character and state of the land in Canada, with its various classes of settlers and cultivators. The country through which we passed very much resembled what we had seen in some of the more westerly States of the Union. The land appeared to be good, and was largely cleared in some parts ; while in others the original 362 CANADA— CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLI forest-trees remained, and near to them was tlio lojf- cabin surrounded with black burnt stumps, — the proolH that clearance had only recently begun. The country had, decidedly, a more English aspect than tho now lands of the United States ; and the settlors looked, in figure, countenance, and dress, as well as in tlioir asso- ciated gear of agricultural teams and instrumonls, more like British husbandmen. On the whole, I should sav that a finer or more promising country than Canada cannot anywhere be found. Taking into ac- count its climate, soil, wood, mineral treasures, rivors, lakes, railway conveyances, and quickly advancing towns and cities, we may feel ourselves warrajitod in concluding that Canada is destined to become ono of the first countries in tho world. Within the last seven years it has doubled its po])u- lation, while the gross revenue of the colony has in that period been quadrupled. Some of the cities and towns have advanced in a still higher ratio. Tho city ol' Toronto had, in 1830, scarcely 5000 inhabitants; it now contains more than 50,000 soids, and its asst'ssod property is valued at full four millions of pounds Ntorliug. Tho railways and their telegraphic wires are crossijig and intersecting tho country in all directions. At present there are more than 800 miles of railway in use, and preparations are making for opening within the year 200 miles more, or what is called tho " (in^nt Trunk Lino," and which, by a colossal tubular bri(lj<:n a mile and a half long over the St. Lawrence at ^Moii- treal, will connect tho large and increasing tratlie ho- tween (Canada and tho United States. Then there in tlie great highway on tho water, from tho estiuu-y «>! the St. Lawrence at Quebec to tho upper lakes : indeeil, I was tho lojr- ps, — tho proolH Tho co\intry than tho now tlors hi()ko(l, ill 18 in their URSO- id instruinonlH, whoh\ I shovild r country than raking into JU5- reasurea, rivors, eldy advancing ca warranted in ) become ono of ouWed its po]>u- plony has \n that cities and towns io. The city of ) inhabitants ; it and its asaessod pounda sterling, ires aro crossing directions. At 1^8 of railway in r opening within !i\lled tho "(J rent id tidndar hridgo iiiwrenee at Men- reaaing t rathe ho- Tlien there in )ni tho estiiary "' )er lakes : indeed, CANADA —CONFERENCE AT BROOKVILLE. 363 tho facilities of the country for transit, agriculture, nu"ning, trade, and merchandise, seem to be boundless ; and, ultimately, Canada must assert its claim to be (dasscd among the most wealthy and flourishing por- tions of the globe. With the river on our right, as an interesting com- panion for several miles as we rushed along, we ad- vanced towards Montreal. We reached it at four in tho afternoon, and drove to the St. Lawrence Hotel, where wo obtained a two-bedded lodging-room for the night. We went out to \.ok at the town until dinner- time, and got a fair general idea of it. AEontreal is a liirgo, fine city, stretching along the side of the river about two miles, and extending inwards, up a sloping acclivity, a mile and a half. Paul Street, tho chief commorciul thoroughfare, runs parallel to tho St. Law- ren»;o for tho whole length of tho city. There are aevcral good squares and places of promenade. The qniiy at tho river-side, a full mile in length, by its situation and masonry may be favourably compared with any structure of the kind in England. There aro aomo large, fine public buildings. The churches are good. There is a very handsome Gothic Methodist (•Impel in James Street, which will hold, I should say, l-'iOO persons. Hut tlio most pretentious structure is tho French Kotniin CuthoHc cathedral. It is said to bo eiipablo of acconunndating from ten to twelve thousand persons — a report which, from experience of tho exaggeration 80 enstomury in speaking of public buildings, und tho nnnih(>r (hey will hold, I should translate into five or nix thousand at tho most. This cathedral is of Hat, l>a8teboard, Gothic style, outside, with high towers ; but ''A */«/ 361. CANADA-CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE. \i Ml inside (like the Romish Church itself), it has nothing worth admiration. Here, too, as in the cities of the United States, the Romish cathedral is pewed, and has no open space left, as in Europe, for the kneeling poor. The town, in many parts, bears unmistakeable signs of Roman Catholic inhabitants. It has several religious houses and schools ; and in the lower parts there are crowded together the poorer classes of French people, not the most cleanly in their persons and dwellings. There are many large handsome houses in the great streets and in the suburbs ; also an English university, a college, and numerous institutions for the promotion of learning, science, and religion. There is, likewise, a marble monument of Nelson ; but it is much shattered and broken. The population of the city of Montreal was 9000 in the year 1800 ; now it is 75,000, and it is rapidly on the increase. The aggregate value of the real estate of the city is estimated this year at £0,391,333, and the total revenue at £71,258 ; so that Montreal is now a city of extensive and increasing mer- chandise and trade. With the exception of half an hour for dining, wo spent our hours till bed-time in looking over the town, and, as you will suppose, found in it much to interest us. '4 'M iVILLB. , it has nothing the cities of the pewed, and has e kneeling poor. ;akeable signs of several religious parts there are f French people, nd dwellings. )U8e8 in the great ligUsh university, 'or the promotion [hero is, likewise, is much shattered city of Montreal is 75,000, and it ggregate value of I^ted this year at £71,258 ; so that ad increasing mer- ieption of half an ■s till bed-time in vill suppose, found LETTER XXI. LAKE CHAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. Departure from Montreal — Railway-ticket Sharpers — Beauty "f Lake Clianip- liiin — Town of Burlington — Brief Separation from Dr. llanuali — State of Massathusets — Glance at its History — Its English Features — Boston — Sketch of the City — Wooden Bridges — State-House— Chantrcy's Statue of Washington — Faneuil Hull — Ancient " Timber Houses " — Public Buildings and Monuments — Ascendancy of Uuitarianism — Theodore Parker — Departure from Boston — The Infidel in the Railway-car — Striking Scenery — Albany — Description of the City — Churches and Sects — The Sliakers — Sabbath in Albany. We left Montreal on Friday morning, the 6th of June, at six o'clock, — Dr. llannah intenr ing to rest for a day or two at Rhinebeck, while I turned aside to see Boston and Albany, and then returned with him to New York. I had very much desired to visit Quebec, h..ving heard much of the advantages of its position, and the gran- deur of its surrounding scenery. The doctor, however, evidently felt some effects of our long travel and con- tinuous excitement; and having become fully accustomed to each other's company, I resolved not to remain so fur behind, but to journey with him as far as Rutland, at which point we might separate more safely for a day or two, knowing that, meantime, we should not be fur from each other. The morning was fine, and I rose from my bed in a 366 LAKE CHAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. w > ■ i i thankful frame, for it was the anniversary of my birth- day. But as soon as we reached the quay to cross the river for the Rutland Railway, we met with considerable discomfort. A crowd of eager, bawling ticket-sellers surrounded us, contending for us as purchasers of rail- way tickets, which they said we could not obtain after we left Montreal. Many of our fellow-passengers, either on the ferry- steamer or the quay, saw how much we were annoyed and perplexed, yet allowed us to stand and reluctantly buy our tickets of these contentious sharpers at any price they chose to demand. Not a word was spoken for our counsel or relief by our fellow- passengers, though they knew that tickets might be had either on board as we crossed the river, or of the conductor in the railway-car. We purchased our tickets of the salesmen on the quay, at the lowest price we could obtain them for, and went on board the steamer, in which we were to cross the River St. Lawrence for the train waiting to receive us on the other side. On being seated in the railway-car, it occurred to me that our bill of charges at the hotel was very high, considering the brief time we hud stayed at Montreal. On examination I found that full three-quarters of a da>^ each more than was due was set down to us. This increased our annoyance, and the more so because it was the first overcharge wo had detected since we left home (except in the hiring of coaches), and it had occurred in the British dominions. We felt our British character involved in it, and I immediately pencilled u note to the proprietor of the hotel, enclosing the bill, and pointing out the overcharge, which I hoped was tlie clerk's error, and which I requested ho would remit to me in dollar notes. Having done this, we detcr- Wl • y LBANY. y of my birth- ly to cross the th considerable o- ticket-sellers jhasers of rail- ot obtain after ssengers, either how much we ed us to stand icse contentious .emand. Not a }f by our fellow- ickets might be river, or of the hased our tickets lowest price we ird the steamer, 5t. Lawrence for fther side, t occurred to me was very high, yed at Montreal, ree-quarters of a own to us. This ore 80 because it ted since we left hcs), and it had e felt our British lately pencilled a inclosing the bill, lich I hoped was 'd he would remit this, we detcr- LAKE CIIAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. 367 rained to rise above our annoyances, so resumed our spirits, and prepared for the enjoyment of the scenery in our way.* We passed over forty or fifty miles of cultivated prairie land, between the Montreal ferry and Rouse's Point, which is at the head of Lake Champlain, and immediately on the border line between the United States and Canada. Here we crossed the lake in the railway- car over an unfenced timber bridge, and ran several miles down on the east side of the water to Burlington, crossing the several creeks and bays of the lake also on wooden supporters. AVe might have gone down the lake in a steamer, and landed at Burlington to take the rail, if we had not been perplexed and con- founded at starting by the ticket-sellers. If we had done so, we should have seen more of the beauty and expanse of the lake, and of the charms of its lovely islands. But as we had bought our tickets for the railway we went upon it, and the prospect afforded from it was very pleasing and beautiful. Lake Champlain is 132 miles long, and at Burlington, the widest part unobstructed by islands, it is nearly ten miles across. It varies in depth from fifty to nearly three hundred feet. Its shores are richlv-woodod, and are surrounded by lofty Cumberitmd-like mountains. Many of these heights have an historic interest from the skirmishes and battles that were porseveringly sustained in them. Burlington seems to be a town of importance, both in learning and trade. The University of Vermont, founded as early as 1791, is here, with its president and five professors, and its library of 10,000 volumes. It is * since our return home tlu- ovcrclmrge lias bccu returui'J to U3, thereby >lio\viug that it was u clerk's error only. "f^' 74 U 1 1 i' f ill i 368 LAKE CIIAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. situated on a rising ground, at about the middle of the east side of the lake, on one of its larger bays, and has some good streets intersecting each other, and regularly laid out. Steamboats and river-craft are plentiful on the water in front of it. On leaving Burlington by the train, we still kept near to the lake for an hour and a half, as far as Vergennes. From that town we took a direction somewhat more inclined to the east for Rut- land, where Dr. Hannah and I separated for a short time — the doctor going on south to Albany for the night, and from thence to Rhinebeck the next morning, while I went south-east to Boston. The scenery, while we were together, was highly picturesque. It very much resembled some parts of the Welsh scenery in its gorges, mountain passes, and valley streams. But all the scenery, both of hills and valleys, was richly wooded, of a light pea-green colour. When the doctor and I separated, I journeyed on by rail to Keene. The scenery continued to be very delightful ; some of the rocks and cascades pouring from them were strikingly picturesque. After this I entered the State of Massachusets, and proceeded towards Boston, which I reached about nine in the evening, having travelled in fifteen hours about 330 miles. I obtained good accommodation at *f The American House," and, after a comfortable meal and a brief stroll through the town, retired to bed. Massachusets is one of the oldest, wealthiest, best- cultivated, and most influential states of the Union. It is small in comparison with some other states ; but it is rich in iron, lead, marble, and limestone, as well as in the varieties of its soil. It is also advantageously posited, with its fine bays and ports on the east coast, while it is BANY. middle of tte bays, and has and regularly (lentiful on the ington by the an hour and a town we took a e east for But- ted for a short ly for the night, morning, while inery, while we It very much jry in its gorges, ,. But all the ■ichly wooded, of I journeyed on lued to be very ies pouring from ter this I entered oceeded towards in the evening, ut 330 miles. I ¥ The American and a brief stroll wealthiest, best- of the Union. It jr states ; but it is one, as well as in itagcously posited, it coast, while it is LAKE CHAMPLAIN, BOSTON. AND ALBANY. 369 well watered by its rivers within. Of late years the manufactures of this State have risen to considerable importance. Farms are numerous, in proportion to the extent of the State, and aro well cultivated. The roads are good and well fenced, the gardens and orchards are trimly kept, and, altogether, an English traveller is more reminded of his own country in passing through Massachusets, by its enclosed fields, flocks of sheep, blooming orchards, and flowery gardens, than he is by what he sees in any other State. So that he is fully reconciled to the use of the name given by Prince Charles to this and the five adjoining States eastward of the Hudson River, that of " Now England." I need scarcely say to you that in this State is the landing-place of the " Pilgrim Fathers, " who, after their long and perilous voyage in the Maijjloiccr (fleeing from the persecution of the first Stuart), reached its shores on December 22, 1620, and founded the town of Plymouth. Their early struggles in the establishment of their infant colony are familiar to you. Massachusets, in the beginning, seems to have borne very mucli of the character of its Puritan founders. Its laws were most unjustifiably strict for more private and domestic faults, and it was disgraced by its cnu>l persecution of the Quakers, and its barbarous burnings fi)r ** witchcraft." It seems to have been involved with the other States in the guilt of slavery, and to have advertised for sale not only negroes and Indians, but also Trinh and Guernsey boys and girls. It also committed some sud depredations upon the Indian possessors of the soil. One is happy to say that Massachusets, like some other parts of Chris- tendom, has now cleared itself of many errors which lingered too long, and that it is now foremost of all the 11 li ! !l I ■ f r' f i .'l ■ li i 370 LAKE CHAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. States in the promotion of benevolent and moral schemes for the advantage of the coloured race and the aborigines, as well as of its own population. Before the revolution of 1776, Massachusets had virtually abolished slavery in its own territory, and now not only are the coloured people within it all free, but possess equal electoral rights with the white inhabitants. It has also its organised Abolition Society, which is zealous and active. Eliot and Brainerd were mis- sionaries to the Indians from New England ; and, at the present time, not only is Massachusets the richest of all the States in its provision of university and college education for the youth of the wealthier classes, but it has public schools which are said to be fully adequate to the wants of all the children within it. There is, however, one drawback to its public reputation, and that is a very serious one ; it is foremost in the profession of Pantheism, and of the Socinian heresy. Next to the Presbyterian and Baptist Churches, the Unitarians are most numerous, while the Universalists have also many supporters within the State. The people, generally, seem cold and phlegmatic. There is a hard, stern, Scotchman-like look and bearing in their demeanour that diflers as greatly from the sunlike glow of the luxurious and hos- pitable Southerner as it does from the impulsive, go-a- head recklessness of the onward-bound Westerner. Boston is the capital of Massachusets (as the abori- ginal Indian tribe after whom it was named called themselves), and the metropolis of New England. It was first described by an Indian name which signified "the hill with three tops," and which was Englished into " Trimountain," or " Trement," but afterwards, in honour of a minister and some emigrants from Boston, JANT. loral schemes he ahorigines, lachusets had itory, and now t all free, hut te inhahitants. liety, which is srd were mis- id ; and, at the the richest of jity and college lasses, but it has adequate to the ere is, however, id that is a very )n of Pantheism, ;lie Presbyterian j most numerous, oany supporters y, seem cold and , Scotchman-like r that differs as ixurious and hos- . impulsive, go-a- AVesterner. ets (as the abori- ms named called ew England. It le which signified ch was Englished 3ut afterwards, in •ants from Boston, LAKE CHAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. 371 in Lincolnshire, it was authoritatively determined to designate it by its present name — the emigrant's feeling for his native place being strong then, as it is now. It is on record that the first three children baptised in the church of Boston were named "Joy," " Recompence," and " Pity," by way of memento, no doubt, as in patri- archal and Jewish days, of the state and circumstances of the parents. The city is now large, handsome, and prosperous. It contained at the last census 162,629 inhabitants. It is older in appearance than any other city of the States which I have seen, and is less regular and methodical in its plan and thoroughfares. But it has a substantial, well-established look throughout, and, like the State of which it is the capital, is very English in character. Boston stands on a kind of peninsula, and when seen from the water, with its rising terraces, streets, and domes, like Baltimore, it reminds one of pictures of Constantinople seen from the Bosphorus. One of the remarkable sights here consists in the long wooden bridges which connect the citj with the sur- rounding country. Some of these are as much as 6000 feet long, and 40 feet wide. They rest upon hundreds of piers, and at nig t are lighted with numerous lamps, that seem doubled bv reflection in the water. Here are numerous wharves, with large, handsome warehouses upon them, capacious docks, and shipping so extensive as to rank next to that which is seen in the harbour of New York. The State-House, and other public buildings, are on the crown of Beacon Hill, in front of which, on one side, is a large park for the use of the public — " Boston Common," as it is usually called ; and on the other, is the huge reservoir for the supply of the city with fresh ■■-.*■, ■'.■;■>''' i'.-.^'V'':' 872 LAKE CHAMPLAIN, BOSTON. AND ALBANY. W water. The principal street for stores of light and fashionable goods is a long street named after Wash- ington, in the lower part of the city; but the most elegant shops for ladies are those of Tremont Row, which is in the higher part, leading to the uark. The business in heavy goods, which of course is great, is transacted near the wharves. The private residences in Boston are good and substantial, and are almost wholly of stone or brick. Many of them, with their granite basement and steps, their tasteful porticoes, balconies, and palisades, are stately and imposing. The impression made by the whole, whether in the throng of the city, or in its suburbs, is that of wealth divided and diffused among the many, and not amassed and possessed by the few. There are nc huge mansions, but there are numerous good and elegant houses, with their garden plots and trees before or around them; and almost everywhere but in the lowest parts of the town, there is an air of cleanliness and solid comfort beyond what can be found, so far as I have observed, in the other large cities of the States. The public buildings are large and respectable. The State-House stands on the highest point ; and is seen, with its well-proportioned dome, as a crowning orna- ment of the city from every point of view. It is a good structure, and is something after the form of the Capitol in the city of Washington ; only, it is coloured as stone, instead of being whitened as marble. It is approached by a lofty flight of steps. Both the Senate Chamber and the Hall of Ilepresentatives are fitted up with semicircular and gradually elevated desks, fronting the chair of the speaker — the arrangement common to all the legislative halls of America. It is, in fact, 'roavo- ment deeply, and spoke of it as u very serious and solemn event. The gentleman on the seat with her said that it was not surprising that such an event should bo felt by the bereaved friends, but for himself, he wns reconciled to death on the ground that it terniinutvtl existence, and with that uU pain and sorrow, lie used, he observed, to shudder at the approach of death, when ho believed in reward and punishment after it, but in late years he had given the subject a thorough in vest i- gation, and ho was convinced, both from reason ttnd S(;rii)ture, that there was no hereafter. Then he entt«rod upon ])retended expositions of passages in the llible bear- ing on the (question, and gave the most I'also and unwur- ALBANY. LAKE CHAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. 377 heir priests and Chese facts, to ft ,nd saving Chris- • the city, and Methodist Kpia- 2000 fuU-churoh " from whouee it erature. orcester Railway, re I had proof of lelity in tliis part ' a senator, as I imediately hchind man seated him- a manner, entered jcting her journey, iburn, and was tlio ludden call by tho IS journeying from I foel her b(«reavo- , very serious and the seat with lier ich an event should tor himself, he was that it teruiiuatod sorrow. Ho used, ac'h of death, when cut after it, but in a thorough iiivesti- 1 from reason and Then he rntored sin the liiblebear- ost false and uuwui" r rantable interpretations. The lady expressed her doubt respecting his conclusions, and declared that, in her view, they afforded no relief or consolation in bereave- ment, or in the personal prospect of death. lie set himself still more earnestly to shake her faith in the doctrine of a future state, and tried to show her how his unbelief was relieving in such a case as hers. I forebore from making any remarks as long as I could, but this attempt to seduce a sorrowing woman from the truth seemed so insidious and unmanly, that it reminded me of Milton's representation of Satan as a toad squat at the ear of Eve, and I could no longer restrain the expression of my condemnation ; so turning round to tho gentleman, I said firmly, " Sir, you must excuse me for seeming intrusion upon your conversation with your friend, but, sitting where I do, I could not but hear what you have said ; and satisfied as you may have personally become on the subject you have named, yet you must admit that you incur tremendous responsibility in trying to take from the mind of another the all-powerful motive to moral and religious duty which is to be derived from a belief in a future life." He evidently quailed under the rebuke ; liis e5'es drooped, and the flesh quivered on his face. He admitted the responsibility incurred by his conduct, but endeavoured to justify it on the ground of truth. We then discussed the question itself, exa- mining Scripture texts ; but liis ardour in debate soon subsided, and, on our stopping at the next station, ho either left the train, or went into another car, for ncitluT the lady nor I saw him again. The scenery on this lino was very pleasing, particu- larly in the neighbourhood of Springliehl, where we ci'usacd tho Connecticut River. Tho chain of hills for «l,« ! I'l mi iA * ' 378 LAKE CIIAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. many miles was beautiful in its round swelling forms and rich green clothing. It was covered with fresh- leaved trees, and that from the river-edge to its summit, so that the sight as I rode along and viewed them was very refreshing. As the train approached Albany the hills became less undulating and more extended in their outline. They assumed more of the form of mountains, and were not so uniformly wooded. With the hori- zontal streaks of the descending sun behind them, they produced a very solemn and grand effect, which was more sombre as we advanced, and before arriving at Troy, where we crossed the Hudson by ferry for Albany, the scenery was almost wholly massed in darkness. The lights of Albany, sprinkled over the sloping heights of the city, made known its general outline. I drove up to the Congress Hall Hotel, and soon pronounced myself to be in a very comfortable lodging. Albany is the legislative capital of the Empire State of New York, and was one of the earliest Dutch settle- ments. It was wrested from them by Charles II. in 1664, and, both under the English and the Americans, has continued to prosper, so that now it is a large and im- portant city, with more than 60,000 inhabitants. Lying on a sloping ascent on the western bank of the Hudson, Albany looks well from the opposite side of the river, as it is seen rising from its quay and wharves at the water's edge, and displaying its buildings and streets at difi'er- ont steps of elevation, until they are all crowned by tho dome of the City Hall, which, being overlaid with plates of zinc, glistens in the sunshine most brilliantly. The cliiof trade is in tho lower parts of tho city, and, both in appearnnco and niimcs, tho stores remind a visitor of tho Dutch origin of tho place. Albany is LAKE CHAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. 379 nearly at the extremity of the deeper navigation of the Hudson, and being, as it is, a great point of commu- nication with Canada and the Atlantic, as well as with the West, the steamboats and river-craft are numerous. The public buildings and better sort of residences are in the higher part of the town, either on the crown of the hill, or in either of the two chief cross streets, named Market Street and Pearl Street. The great thoroughfare is a long, wide street or avenue ascending from the banks of the river, and reaching to the Capitol on the hill. The streets are irregular in the older part of the town — that nearest the river ; but in the higher and more modern division, order has been observed, and large spaces have been appropriated to public squares, which, with their walks and trees, add much to the pleasant appearance as well as to the salu- brity of the city. The Capitol is not so stately and imposing as some other public buildings in its neigh- bourhood, which are of later date. Churches and educational establishments are nume- rous in Albany ; there is church accommodation for more than two-thirds of its population, including chil- dren ; and it is said that fully two-thirds regularly attend public worship. The Methodists have the greater share of the churches, and hold a very good position in the city. The Presbyterians, the German lleformers, the Baptists, and the Protestant Episcopalians, as well us the Roman Catholics, have large churches, and all of them have Sunday-schools belonging to them. There are also normal or model schools on a largo scale, in which teachers are trained for the public schools in the State. That very singular religious sect, the Shakers, have 380 LAKE CIIAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY. a largo establishment within eight miles of Albany, but I had not time to visit it. They are the followers of "Mother Ann Lee," of Manchester, in our own country, who joined herself to some German Shakers, and began like them to profess special revelations and manifestations from Heaven, and held meetings in which leaping and dancing were the results of high mental excitement in some, and persecution the natural result in others. She left England to escape the perse- cution, and, in 1770, located herself at Niskynna, in this neighbourhood, where the chief community of her followers still reside. There are other communities of this strange sect scattered over the States, comprising 4000 men, women, and children, and they are said to be gaining adherents more rapidly now than for some time past. I might have spent the Sabbath in visiting the Shakers' establishment, and I must confess that I had some curiosity to witness their monastic system, their jumping, dancing, and singing, especially as tliey have the highest reputation for morality and sincerity ; but I could not, on reflection, think it the most suitable way of spending the hours of the sacred day. So I remained at Albany, and visited the various churches. In the morning I went to the Methodist service in Pearl Street, where, in a good, commodious church, I heiird a somewliat desultory, but on the whole a telling sermon on tlie Cliristian duly of overcoming evil willi good. The service was fervent and impressive. After- wards, I turned into a large I'rotestant Episcopal church in State Street, where, to a fashionably-dressed audience, I heard delivered a decent moral discourse, which lacked earnestness, evangelical motive, and direct application. In the afternoon, I looked in at the Itoman Catholic ALBANY. lilcs of Albany, ire the followers 3r, in our own Herman Shakers, I revelations and eld meetings in s results of high lution the natural escape the perse- at Niskynna, in community of her er communities of States, comprisuig 1 they are said to low than for some Sabbath in visiting lUst confess that I . monastic syst«'ni, ;, especially as thoy ility and sincerity ; ,t the most suitable sacred day. So 1 various churches. .ethodist service in Lmodious clnircli, 1 the whole a telling 'crcoming evil willi impressive. Aftcr- IntKpiscop^i^^'^^^"'^'^^ ly-dressed audience, iourso, which lacked direct application. [he llomau Catholic LAKE CIIAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY, 381 church, which was filled in every part. The altar was highly decorated and the priests were in full dress ; the schools were in their characteristic costumes ; many candles were burning ; the choir was large and powerful ; and all the congregation seemed to be most earnestly engaged in the service. The show and glare of Popery seemed carried to their utmost height, and us I stood and surveyed the priests and their attendants, bowing and chanting before the crucifixes, I could have nhouted " Idolatry ! Idolatry !" as loudly as Latimer himself, for my spirit was stirred within me at the senii-hea- thenish sight. In the evening I sought tlio African church, but could not find it ; so I turned into the Baptist church in Pearl Street, and heard from a Mr. Nixon, who was there that evening, a very tender and loving sermon on the first part of Solomon's Song. After that I called on Mr. Lord from England, and thou returned to my hotel, where I slept soundly in a good bed until five the next morning. : LETTER XXII. HUDSON RIVER, BROOKLYN, AND VOYAGE HOME. Scenery of the Hudson— The "Crow's Nest "— Tappan's Bay— The "Pali- sades " — Hills of Hoboken — Return to New York — Visit to Brooklyn — Dr. Haunaii's Sermon and Farewell of Methodist JViends in New York — Re-cnibarkinent on Board the Africa — Voyage homewards — Passengers — Sabbath Services on Board— Singing — Land in Sight — Summary of Thoughts on America. * , I LEFT Albany for New York by the Hudson Railway, which passes along the eastern bank of the river. The Hudson gradually increased in width, and was broken by islands richly covered with graceful foliage. After about an hour's ride, the Catskill Mountains were seen on the right : rain-clouds were hanging upon them at the time, and they were reeking in their morning-dcAv with fine Turneresque effect. Here and there the veil of mist was parted, and afforded glimpses of dark, wooded, high-peaked mountains, and of the sylvan sloping scenery around them. I passed the town of Hudson, which takes its name, like the river, from the Dutch navigator and explorer, and saw across the water the small village of " Athens." In about three hours from starting I reached Rhine- beck, where my friend. Dr. Hannah, joined me again— he having spent the time of our separation very pica- HUDSON RIVEE, BROOKLYN. AND VOYAOB HOME. 383 YAGE HOME. l,an's Bay— The"Pali- lj_Visit to Brooklyn- Friends in New York— homewards— Passengers in Sight— Summary of Hudson Eailway, )f the river. The I, and was broken ul foliage. After luntains were seen ing upon them at leir morning-dew and there the veil j'limpses of dark, id of the sylvan iissed the town of le river, from the saw across the I reached Rhine- joined me again— jaration very plea- santly and profitably at llhinebeck, with the daughter of Freeborn Garrettson and Mrs. Oliu, who reside in that locality. He had preached twice on the Sabbath, and had administered the sacrament of the Lord's Sup- per in a newly-opened church at Hill Side, for building which the ladies had obtained tho funds by their own eflPorts. It was the first time that the sacrament of the Lord's Supper had been admiuistered there. Notwith- standing these labours, I was delighted to see that the doctor looked refreshed by his visit. We now journeyed on together, and had most lovely landscape views opening to us, — they were scattered over with mansions, and wo learned that this charming locality was named " Hyde Park." Tho scenery grew bolder as we approached the flourishing towns of Poughkeepsie and Newburgh. Tho blue hills stretched away beyond the river, reminding us by their forms of our own Cumberland and Westmoreland scenery. Then we came to a highly picturesque part at what is called "West Point," where two frowning iiills overhang the water, while an island of ro(!k rises up in the mi^ldle of the river. This view of the innnenso toppling masses of craggy heights and loaning precipices is verv impressive. But the most lovely scene of all was th..^ of the "Crow's Nest," whore a mountain 1428 feet high rests in the river, in the midst of the most beautiful lake-like expansion of water, and in the most picturesque manner slopes upwards to the summit, where there is a depression in form of fancied resemblance to a crow's nest. Nothing can be imagined liner thiin this part of the Hudson scenery. The shelving bunks and hills sink down at their sides into tho glassy river, and reflect their rich covering of Juno verdiire as in a 384 HUDSON RIVER, BROOKLYN. AND VOYAGE HOME. I ( f! d' bright mirror ; while the Crow-Nest mountain, with deeper shadows at his sides and in the water, rests in high, calm majesty, like a monarch amidst the whole. In this neighbourhood, too, standing on an elevation, is the Military Academy, where the cadets for the United States' army are trained, and also the pillared monument raised by them to the Polish patriot, Kos- ciusko, who, in early life, fought under Washington for American independence, and who spent his latter days in quietness in this neighbourhood, receiving a pension from the United States' government. Further, after passing "Buttermilk Falls" on the right, and "An- thony's Nose" on the left, we came to "Sing Sing," where are the noted marble quarries, worked by state prisoners. Then we reached " Tappan's Bay," where the water expands to an average width of two miles and a half, in a length of about ten miles. This locality is memorable in American history for being the head- quarters of Washington during the war of the revolu- tion. We were now also in the neighbourhood of the homes of Washington Irving, the genial author of " The Sketch-book of Geoffrey Crayon," and of Mrs. Wetherell, the successful writer of " Queechy," and " The Wide Wide World." The Hudson lliver narrowed again ; and now, on our right, for twenty miles in length, rose a most remarkable range of trap-rock, a.«cending perpendicu- larly from the water to a height of from 100 to 500 feet, witli sharp-pointed edges at its precipice. This wall of rocks, from its appearance, is called " The I'alisades." In some parts it is perfectly bare, showing the angular scams and fissures ; in other parts it is scattered over with brushwood, and here and there slopes down a bit lYAGE HOME. mountain, with , water, rests in Ldst the whole, on an elevation, s cadets for the also the pillared ish patriot, Kos- • Washington for it his latter days ceiving a pension Further, after right, and " An- te " Sing Sing," i, worked by state .an's Bay," where ,h of two miles and }. This locality is . being the head- var of the revolu- ^•hbourhood of the °ial author of "The ofMrs.Wetherell, • and " The Wide lain; and now, on ]ngth, rose a most inding perpendicu- rom 100 to 500 feet, Ipice. This wall of ' The Talisadcs." [lowing the angular it is scattered over slopes down a bit HUDSON RIVER, BROOKLYN, AND VOYAGE HOME. 385 of lawn to the edge of the river, while between the cliffs may be seen peeping lovely cottages, half-smothered in shrubberies. The eastern bank of the river, upon which we passed by the train, is only of moderate height ; but it is not without its adornment of trees and villages. The Hudson may be considered as the Rhine of the United States ; but its scenery is not so bold and ro- mantic as that which we have seen together on the veritable Rhine, though it is as winding in its course, and as abrupt in some of its turns. The loftier eleva- tions by the side of the Hudson are almost wholly con- fined to its western bank, and you are not presented here with the rocky juttings and fine old ruined castles which so greatly heighten the picturesque effect of the panorama on the true Rhine, and so constantly carry back the thoughts to the old chivalrous times. Thought is awakened as one gazes here at so much that is beau- tiful. The imagination pictures the delight and wonder of the first Europeans who ascended the Hudson — for delight and wonder must have been experienced, even by a Dutch commander and liis crew, when these varied scenes of beauty and fertility first broke upon their view. They must, one cannot help thinking, have gazed from the deck, with almost breathless admiration, at the richly wooded scenery ; while here and there at openings or at the water's edge, would be seen painted and head- plumed Indians, peeping or staring at them and their heavy vessel. And then there would be the glowing, thoughts of the report of their discovery, which they would have to bear to Holland — that report which, when actually delivered, induced the Dutch instantly to form a company for the colonisation of this newly- found realm of loveliness. c c 386 HUDSON river, Brooklyn, and voyage home. We soon beheld on our right the hills of lloboken, where many of the more opulent merchants of New York have their villas and mansions, the site combining the advantages of good air, extensive and beautiful scenery, and proximity to the great city. On the river, too, the numerous steamers and craft of different kinds, approaching or leaving New York, now gave additional animation to the scene ; and soon we were rattling through the streets on the western side of the metro- politan city, and tlieu were busy claiming our luggage at the terminus by the corresponding checks. One of the checks proved to have been givefi, us in error, for it did not bear the same number as that which was attached to the doctor's black bag. However, by ex- planations and certificates, we obtained the whole (ten portions), and with it drove in a spacious swing coach to the Book Concern. There we took up our large portmanteaus, which we had forwarded for relief from Indianapolis, by Adam'^ F.cpr ss, 1000 miles for about £l. Thence we proceeded to our friend ]\[r. Mead's, truly thankful for Divine protection during our long journey over so large a portion of the American con- tinent, and reconciled to the overcharge of four dollars (16s. 8(1.) for the use of the coach from the railway, knowing that, with the exception of a bunch of keys left at Ivhinobeck, all our luggage was safe, and that we with it were on the eve of departure for home. During our very brief stay in New York we went over to lirooklyu by the steam feiry ; and while Dr. Hannah called upon an English friend there, I went on to Greenmount Cemetery. This suburban burial-place is very beautifully situated on a rising ground facing New York, is tastefully laid out in walks and water, and its AGE HOME. s of lloboken, hants of New site combining and beautiful On the river, different kinds, o-avc additional I were rattling of the nietro- ng our luggage ibecks. One of us in error, for tbat wbicb was [lowever, by ex- d tbo whole (ten jious swing coach ,ok up our large d for relief from miles for about iend Uy. Mead's, during our long e American con- ge of four dollars ■rem the railway, a bunch of keys ,-as safe, and that vc for home, ■w York we went y; and while Dr. d there, I went on ■ban burial-place is ,-round facing ^New and water, and its HUDSON RIVER, BROOKLYN AND VOYAGE HOME 387 white marble tombs and obelisks are surrounded or overhung with shrubbery and trees. There is some- thing very instructive and subduing in these American grave -gardens. Reverence and love for the departed are evident in the cure, order, and taste with which the graves and sepulchres are preserved. The mementoes of garlands and bunches of faded flowers strewn over them, tell of visits by the bereaved, and the simple and unaffected inscriptions which some of them bear in the place of the full name — such as " ^ly Husband," " Our Mother," or " My Brother," are very touching. I also revisited the ^lethodist Book Concern, wliere the kindest attentions were paid to me by the Rev. Tlios. Carlton, and where copies of several publications were generously presented to me. I als'.» stepped into Har- per's great book-store, and several other publisliing and bookselling establishments. But I found little in the price of American books to tempt me to add much to the weiglit of my luggage ; nor, in';eed, did I iind anything in the States much cheaper than the like article in England, while many things, particularly clothing, were considerably liigher. Dr. Hannah preached, by special request, in the evening of the single entire day we spent in ^'ew York on our return, in Green Street Methodist Church. The large building was crowded ; and the doctor, worn and jaded though he was, preached a most eloquent and powerful sermon. ]Many had come not only from dif- ferent parts of the city, but from different parts of the countrv. Some were there whom we had knovn in London and Manchester, and seemed to feel much under the reriiembrance of old times. After the sermon I was proceeding to conclude the service, when we discovered 388 HUDSON river, Brooklyn, and voyage home. n m that it had been arranged to take a public farewell of us on the eve of our departure for home and England. Many ministers were within the communion-rails and around. Dr. Ban^s delivered to us a most affectionate address, and Dr. Hannah replied to it appropriately. They pressed me for a speech ; but I was tired of public exhibitions, and was too much the subject of emotion to speak at length, so I sheltered myself under the speech of Dr. Hannah, and made my escape from a front position. The inquiries made of us, and the messages and daguerreotypes entrusted to us, by settlers in the new world, were very numerous. We shook hands that night with not merely scores, but hundreds, of friends ; and we returned at a late hour to our host's, in the " Second Avenue," to sleep a little, and then prepare for com- mencing our homeward voyage on the morrow. "We were on board the Africa — our old ship — by eleven o'clock on the morning of June the 11th, accom- panied and met by a crowd of well-wishers — among whom were our constant friend. Dr. Osbon, his wife, and Dr. and Mrs. Palmer. The last-named lady has written some excellent works on Christian holiness, and kindly presented copies of them to us. At twelve at noon, with feelings never to be forgotten, we waved our hats and handkerchiefs, as the steamship was loosened from her moorings, and began to move her paddle- wheels for England. When we could no longer discern our friends on the pier, we took our lust long look around the beautifully expanding bay through which we were steaming towards the ocean ; and sighed forth our prayers to heaven for the churches and brethren from whom we had received such uniform attentions. AGE HOME. HUDSON RIVER BROOKLYN, AND VOYAGE HOME. 389 ; farewell of us and England, nion-rails and ost affectionate appropriately. ; was tired of the subject of i myself under y escape from a , messages and •lers in the new lands that night of friends ; and in the " Second repare for com- norrow. r old ship— by ihe nth, accom- wishers— among Dsboii, his wife, named lady has ian holiness, and At twelve at m, we waved our hip was loosened lOve her paddle- 110 longer discern last long look Y through which and sighed forth les and brethren liform attentions, and expressions and proofs of regard during our sojourn in America. We were now fairly afloat, and bound for home. The captain, officers, and men belonging to the Africa recognised lis with pleasant looks and words, as their old passengers; and we were not long before we set our cabin in order, and prepared for repose, after nine weeks continuous travel and excitement. We both felt the effects of our doings, and were glad to escape from the saloon to our cabin, there to rest, and speak unre- strainedly together of our thoughts and feelings in relation to the past and future. We were scarcely out at sea — that is to say, fairly out of sight of land — before we were enveloped in thick fog, so that the horrid screech-horn, to warn approaching vessels, was heard every few minutes. And this was to be endured for several days and nights. On crossing the banks of Newfoundland, where the cold current from the ice-bound north comes in contact with the warm Gulf Stream, in which we sailed, the fog thickened greatly upon us. Fog, fog, fog, was everywhere — shrouding our vessel, hiding from us the sky and the sea, and filling the saloon and cabins with dense vapour. We were crowded with passengers ; and had still greater varieties among them than among those who were with us in our outward voyage. They were well-behaved ; and less sea-sick than those we went out with, for the water was remarkablj'- and con- tinuously smooth. There were sudden stoj^pings, and idarms at times, which made the passengers crowd to the gangway. But the doctor and I kept much in our berths, feeling seriously the effects of our past toil, now the excitement was over. fy ^~ ,m^- .%. 300 HUDSON RIVER, BKOOKLYN AKD VOYAGE IIO.MIJ. At length the fog cleared off for a time ; aiul from the deck we could see whales sporting in the wuliT, and spouting out the steam from their nostrils, 'J'lion several icebergs were beheld drifting towards us from the north ; a sight which interested us all, 8on»(>\vhat apprehensively. I sketched them with black aiid wlijfo crayons. They were like floating islands, as while as snow ; and, in the place of dark shadows ujxin (hojn, there were green, emerald-like redoctions. Ono of thein, as it passed by us, having worn the inider jvirt away in its course, until the upper had beconu* the heavier, toppled over fully in our view. 'J'hiis my desire to see icebergs was fultilled ; and that undi'V most favourable circumstances. I have been greatly interested and amused by con- sidering the varieties among our passengers — esp(>ciully of their adornments of beard and moustiiclu^ ; and, ono day, I set myself to sketch the forms of tluvsc, nn I could see them, during the time of a meal, in th(> saloon. I have sketched no less than thirty-live vnrici ie8, wliich extend from the first pepper-dust crop on thii lip and chin, to the full-trained busliy beard that covers all the lower part of the face. Some of the forms are very fanciful atul ridiculous, as you will 8(>e ; and if exhibited, as they might be, to the public, might tend to shame fast and fojipish young men from disliguring the " human face divine " in this havliat'oiix way. Some of these beards, you will observe, resemble nmch ihoMc of a goat; and others give the face a sort ol' liarhMjiiin character, by patching it witli pieces of dark and light colour. Surely, this rage for face-hair training is the most absurd rage which has displayed itsell' in modern timca ! YAGE UOMK. HUDSON RIVER, BROOKLYN. AND VOYAGE HOME. 391 Oil the Sabbath, Dr. Hannah preached in the saloon, and 1 read the liturgy. The passengers were very attentive, and the service was most refreshing. A venerable llussian general, on board, took much to us, and was eager in his inquii'ies concerning religion. He particularly asked questions regarding the bodily, or " real," presence of Christ in the sacrament of the liord's Supper. He was evidently sincere ; and seemed glad to be instructed in the things wliich belong to salvation. We have had some delightful singing on board. In the evening, the Germans, who are numerous, gathered between the decks, and sang some of *heir full-chorded German hvmns, whicli sounded most heavenly on the water. A lady, too, with her guitar, at night, sang most charmingly : " llt'i' voice was like the music of a diTam," AVe are now bearing onward, in clear weather, with a fair wind ; and I ara hoping, in a few more hours, to see Kngland, " home, sweet home," and y 'urself. This insi^ires nic uutil 1 could not forbear pcipetrating some verses expressive of my thoughts and feelings ; for cold prose does not seem an adequate or appropriate vehicle of the mind, in such circumstances. 1 am like the Irishman who wrote u letter and carried it himself; for no mail will get this sheet from mo to convey it to you : I shall have to bring it myself. Yet, having described by letter almost all things 1 have seen, heard, and tliought, in my Transatlantic tour, I am induced to Kpeiid my time on board in thus penning for you the incinoi'dbiliii of our homeward voyage. Indeed, land is now in sight, and we ore making fi>r the south-east point of Ireland ; in other words, lor tho , 392 HUDSON RIVER, BROOKLYN, AND VOYAGE HOME. entrance into St. George's Channel. Nearly all the passengers are on deck in their better clothing ; many of them with spy-glasses in hand, to look for the first speck of England. The water is smooth as glass ; and as I shall have time and space to do so, I will try, in the next hour or two, to pen for you my most mature thoughts upon the character of America and its people. The country and its resources are great beyond conception by a stranger : indeed, it is a world in itself. The area of the United States is three millions of square miles, extending from the Atlantic to the Pacific, east and vest, and from the British possessions on the north to tho Gulf of ^Mexico on the south. The extent of shore lino is 12,G09 miles ; half of this line being on the Atlantic coast, and looking towards the old countries of Europe. It has thirty-one independent States, and nine territories, including the district of Columbia. In tlie first twenty years of independent existence the States doubled their territory, and in less than sixty years increased it thre{>fold. The entire popidatiou of the United States at present is more than twenty-seven millions ; one-sixth of this number arc coloured people, of wliom all, except about half a mil- lion, are slaves. The yearly revetmo of the United States* Government is now nioro than thirteen millions sterling. All this indicutes an immense advancement, for it is not yet a century since the Americans won their inth^pendence. And wlien it is considered that their country contains every variety of the raw materials of commerce — wood, coal, stone, smd tlu metals — in abun- dance ; that the soil, for the most part, is us rich and fAGE HOME. JIUD30N RIVER, BROOKLYN, AND VOYAGE HOME. 393 N^early all the lothing; many ok for the first ti as glass ; and so, I will try, you my most \merica and its 3 great beyond , is a world in is three millions Atlantic to the •itish possessions the south. The half of this line tins' towards the -one independent T the district of 1 of indepond(>nt tory, and in less iltl. The entire sent is more than this number arc bout liulf a mil- of the United Uiirtecn millions se advancement, cricuns won their idercd that their raw matfiialH oi' metals — in abun- t, is as rich and productive as can well be conceived, and that under every variety of climate ; that its vast sea and lake lines girdle it all round, affording openings for the most convenient ports and harbours, and that by these, and by railroads and rivers within, it possesses the very best facilities for both external and internal communications — it must be perceived that the prospect for further advancement is almost boundless. ]Jut it is on the American character that one relies when anticipating a vast progress for the country, since mere material advantages can never make a great nation. And the Americans have energy, expertness, and tact, such as cannot be overmatched by any other pcojde in tl)e world. Brother Jonathan is really a handy fellow ; he is ready for anything that will produce profit. And although he eagerly reaches after the " almighty ddlJar," one cannot charge him with sheer avarice, for the liberal provision he makes for his numerous philan- thropic institutions would disprove tlie charge at once. The Americans live in an element of political party strife, and are constantly at war on the borders between the North and the South, but tlicy are resolutely deter- mintnl, ut all costs, to maintain their Federal Union, and whate\ (>r may be their internal broils, they would com- binedly resent the interference of any foreign power, as certainly as the quarrelling husband and wife within doors resent the unasked interposition of a meddling neighbour. They are disgrac(>fidly criminal, as well as grossly inconsistent, in their association with (Slavery ; but several of the (States arc progressively severing themselves from this monster evil, and surely m'c nuiy hope that the rest will, t-ooner or later, follow their example, rurhups it is to purely religious effort, after i i>] 394 HUDSON RIVER BROOKLYN, AND VOYAGE HOME. all, that WG must look for tlie moving power that shall eventually secure negro emancipation hi America. One cannot help expecting, with very anxious interest, the coming decision of the Northern Methodist Church relative to this question. It may bring the important issue sooner than some people seem to expect. And yet great preparation seems necessary before the coloured race could take rank with the whites in America. Whoever has seen the country, and felt himself girt in by the prejudices and contemptuous habits of the whites towards the negroes, will fully understand how difficult it is to persuade one's self that the evil can bo swept away. But with the Almighty Governor of nations this is possible. AVith His blessing on the struggles now making, and with increasing and persevering efforts, enfranchisement shall be won for the poor negro. People who have only heard and read the ridiculous sketches of American cliaracter and manners so com- monly given, may affect to despise this great Trans- atlantic people, but those who have been among them, and made due use of every opportunity for observation, cannot do so. An Englishman may prefer his own country, people, and institutions ; he may admire most devotedly his own island scenes, all under full cultiva- tion, and rich in their architectural anticpiitics and historic associations ; he may love the l^juglish breadth of face and figure, and rejoice in the fresh, healthful appearance of the men un'^ women of his native land ; he may exult in the balance and spring of the British constitution, and believe that, under our beloved Roveri'ign, it bestows more genuine freedom than where government is exercised by presidents who recklessly outbid each other in promises for popularity : but ^vith rAGE HOME. ower that sliall America. Ono )us interest, the thodist Church T the important xpect. And yet jre the coloured cs in America. t himself girt in bits of the whites and how difficult vil can be swept or of nations this »c struggles now rscvering efforts, loor negro, ad the ridiculous manners so com- this gi'eat Trans- cen among them, y for observation, y prefer his own may admire most aider full cultiva- il unticpiities and e I'^nglish breadth ic fresh, healthful f his native land; •ing of the Ih-itisli ulor our beloved .•eedom than where [its who recklessly .pularity : but with HUDSON RIVER BROOKLYN, AND VOYAGE HOME. <'}95 all this preference and love for happy Old England, an observant mind cannot regard Young America without admiration and hearty good wishes. Since writing the foregoing letter, we landed at Liverpool, and arrived safely at our homes, after an absence of nearly twelve weeks, and an extent of travelling of nearly 11,000 miles. As the steamer entered the Mersey, brilliant rockets were profusely discharged, as signals to the town of Liverpool of her approach. John Robinson Kaye, Esq. (who, with Dr. Wood and others, had witnessed our departure), met us at midnight in the river, where we let fall our anchor to remain until the morning, and informed us that our wives and friends were well, and that ^Irs. Jobson was at Birkenhead awaiting my arrival. On hearing this, I left the steamship with ^fr. Kaye, and went ashore, grateful to God for His sparing and proteciiiig mercies. The next daj', when journeying to Summerseat, and looking on the trim, fruitful scenes of my own country, I fully appreciated the saying of fort i^ners, that it is "all a garden," and rejoiced that I was born an Englishman. APPENDIX. BErORT ON SLAVERY. [Page 250.] The Committee on Slavery prcsciit the following as their report : — "That the reduction of a moral and responsil)le being to the con- dition of property is a violation of natural rights, is considered l)y most men an axiom in ethics ; hut whatever opinions may have obtained in general society, the Methodist Episcopal Church has ever maintained an unmistakeable anti-slavery position. Aliirmations that slavery is founded in the philosophy of civil society, that it 'is the corner-stone of Rcpul)lican institutions,' or that it 'is sanctioned by the Bible,' iiave never met with an approving response in our Clnireii. Contrariwise, the founder of Methodism denounced the system in iinquaUried terms of condemnation, and the Fathers unwaveringly followed ti\c exauiplc of tlic venerated Wesley. "The y\. E. Churcli lias, in good faith, in all the periods of its his- tory, proposed to itself the question, ' What siiall be done for the extirpation of the Evil of Slavery?' and it has never ceased, openly and before the world, to bear its testimony against the sin, and to exercise its diseij)linary powers to (he end that ils inembcrs miglit be kepi unspotted from criminal eonneetion with the system, and tiiat the evil itself be removed from aiiumg men. "It is atiinncd and believed tliat tiie M. E. Church liave done more to dilfusc anti-sliivery senliments, to mitigate tiic evils of the system, and to abolish the institution from civil society than any other organ- isatiim, either political, social, or religions. It is also allirmed aiiil believed tiiat tiie adniinislration of discipline in our Church, wiliiiii (he Imiinds of Slave territory, have faitiifnlly done all that, undfi' tiieir circumstances, Ihey have conscientiously judged to be in their power /o anHirer the i'ikIs '',.j llie duty of the Cliureh through its re|iresenlalives assendiled iu its highest ecclesiastical court, to so revise the statutes of the Church as to nuike them express o\u' real sentimeids. and indicate our prac- tice as it is? We answer lir.^t, beeuuse it is just and c(pud; it is I'ighl before (loil aiul all men that on a subject iuvoUing diieetly the jiersonal liberties of thou>aii(U, and imlireetly of millions, of our fellow- aieu, the position of the Cluueli shoidd bu neither ctpiivocal or doubt- 398 APPENDIX. til fill ; secondly, because we cannot answer it to our own consciences, nor to God, the Judge of all, if we fail to do what is in our power to bear testimony against so great an evil ; 1 hi rdly, because it is solemuly demanded at our hands by a very large majority of those whom we represent ; and, fourthly, because the signs of the times plainly indi- cate that it is the duty of all good men to rally for the relief of the oppressed, and for the defence of the liberties transmitted to us by our fathers. "AVe are aware that it is objected that in the present excited state of the public mind to take any action on the subject will be to jdace a weaj)on in the hands of our enemies, with which they may do us essential injury. AVe reply lliat in all cases to say one 1hiug, and mean another, is of doubtful crprtliivin/ as well as of doubtful mora- lity. We judge the rather that on all questions vital to morality and religion, the honour of the Church is better sustained by an unqualified declaration of tlie truth. " We couie now to state what, as it seems to ns, is, always has Ijoen, and ever should be, the true position of our Church in respect to slavery. AVe liold that the buying, selling, and by inference, the holding of a human being, as ])roperty, is a sin against Cod and man; that because of the social relat ions in whiehineumay be placed by the civil codes of shive-holdiug conuuunities, the legal relation of master to slave may, in some circumstances, submit innocently; that con- nection witii slavery is/;/7///''//;/r,' evidence of guilt ; that in all eases of alleged criuiinalily of this kind, tlu' l)urden of proof should rest upon the accused, he always having secured to him the advantages of trial and appeal bi fore iuipartial trii)unals. In view of these facts and priueiples, tlie eouimittee reeonnnend the adoption of the follow- ing resolutions : — " Iv'solrcil — 1st, by the delegates of the several annual C^)nferenees in (icneral Ctjiiferenee asseud)li'd, that we recommend the several Annaal Conferences so to anuMul our General Eule on Slavery as to read — 'The buying, selling, or holding a human being as property.' " /iV'wAvv/ -2ud, by the delegates of the several Annual Con- ferences in General Ctmfereiice assembled, tii;'.t the following l)e and iicrcby is snbsthutcd in tlie place of the present seventh chapter of our book of discipline, to wit — 'What shall be done for the Extir- pation of the Evil of Slavi ry ':'' " Jiis. 1. — AVe declare we arc as much as ever convinced of tiie ur own couscipiiccs, t is in ovir power to :caiisc it is soleinuly of those whom wc 10 times phiiuly iiuli- ior the n-lirf of the tvausmitted to us by n-cseiit excited state )jcct will he to i)h\ce hich they may do us ) say one thing, and as of doubtful mora- , vital to morality and >ned by an unqualified to ns, is, always has )ur Church in respect and by inference, the against God and man ; I may be i)laced by the s^al relation of master hmocently; that con- ^iiilt ; tl\at in all eases c,f proof should rest o him the advantages In view of these facts adoption of the follow- ral annual Conferences )nunend the several Rule on Slavery as to ,u being as property.' severid Annual Con- ,t the following be and it sevmlh cliapter of )e done for the Extir- APPEXDIX. 390 great evil of Slavery. "We neiievc that all men, l)y nature, have an equal right to Freedom, and that no man has a moral right to hold a fellow-being as property ; therefore, no slaveholder shall be eligible to nu'mbership in onr Church liercafter, where emancipation can be cifeeted without injury to the slave. But, inasmuch as persons may be brought into the legal relation of slaveholders, involuntarily or voluntarily, by purchasing slaves in order to free them, therefore the merely legal relation shall not be considered, of itself, sullicicnt to exclude a person who may thus sustain it, from the fellowship of the Church. "Alls. 2. — Whenever a member of our Churcli, by any means, becomes the owner of a slave, it shall be the duty of the preacher in charge to call together a eonunittec, of at least tiu'cc members, who shall investigate flie case, and determine the time in which such slave shall be free, aiul on his refusal or neglect to abide by the decision of said coinmittee, he shall be dealt with as in ease of immorality. ''.//Av. 3. — It shall be the duty of all our members and }>rol)ationers, who may sustain tlic legal relation of slaveholder, to teach their strvants to read tlie woid of Cod; to allow them to attend the public worship of God, on our regular days of divine servep ; to pro- tect them in tiic observance of the duties of the conjugal and parental relations; to give them such conqumsation for their services as may, under the circumstances, be just and equal ; to nud.1)., Hackney T. Raffles, PI)., LL.D., Liverpool In addition to the Testimonials of of the most iutiuenti:d Clergymeu of bigli coinincndation of the excellence llnwiiig Christiidi Mininters, nf various Rev. Alexander Fletcher's " Guide to Rev. T. BiNNET, Weigh-house James I'ahsons, York W. Jat, Hath F. A (>>x, 11.1)., Hackney J. Clayton, Poultry John Kly. Leeds J. Uavis, Bristol J. YouNo, Albion Chapel ! G. Lawson, Selkirk. English Mini-tei's, nearly One ITundrcil America haxo testilicd, by letter, tiu'ir and great utility of tiiis Work. JAMES S. VIRTUE, CITY ROAD, AND IVY LANE, LONDON. Ill One Vol, sitjH'f-ri>i/al 8i>o., price £1 5*., >K. N STEEL, OTION. .D., fis of Scripture, ^FLICTIVK AM» of more than Fifty cut evidencr.i of the. value wliich seliloni owevcr, is now tlu' Family Di'.voi'ion'. whou the approvjil in of rroti'stautisni, he whok", and of its can be shown thai onics has been fully [l by tlie=e evidences ioTioN is held by a .1 the sphere of usp- IPublisher trust that le production of au \[i>nsters, ofvnrintin Vdehcr's " GnUlc to kVeigh-house Ins, York |h |).I)., Hackney roultry leeds ristol llbion Chapel IselkirU. Learly One Hundred lied, by letter, their I this Work. |nE, LONDON. 'P niE WORKS OF JOSEPHUS. PICTORIAL EDITION. With an Introductory Jlsaay by tiic Rev IIknuy Stedbino, D.D., author of "A Family History of Christ's Universal Church," &e. Illustrated by upwards of Eighty tuie Woodcuts, from Designs by Melville; also Forty-five Engravings on Steel, a well-authenticated Portrait of Joscphus, and a Vignette Title-page. The writings of Josepiius arc among the most valuable records of auti- (juity. lie lived at the period when Diviue justice was einployed iu executing its awful decrees against the Jewish people. Few men of his nation pos- sessed a more accomplished mind ; and to his qualifications in this respect were added, by the position which he occupied, very ample means of acciuii'iug information, and describing the real character of his contemporaries, 1)1 One Vof. price £2 2.?. r/ofk yilt. 'I'' THE CHllISTIAN IN PALESTINE; OR, SCENES OF SACRED HISTORY. Illustrated from Sketches taken by W. II. Uahtlett, during his journeys in the Holy Laud. Comprising Eighty highly-finished Engravings on Steel, by CousEN, Bentley, Brandaud, and others. W^ith explanatory Descrip- tions, by Henry Stebbing, D.D., F.R.S. Ill '' I'oh. demy 4:to., price .42 c/oi/i r/ift, AMERICAN SCENERY. 120 HIGHLY-FINISHED PLATES, After Ski'-.hcs taken on the spot by W^. II. Baktlett; being Land, Lake, and Rivn- Illustrations of Transatlantic Nature. The accompanying Descrip- tions by N. P. Willis, Esq. Tu the press, THE SAINT AND HIS SAVIOUR. A COURSE OF LECTURES. BY THE REV. C. IL SPURGEON. JAMES S. VIRTUE, CITY ROAD, AND IVV LANE, LONDON. i III Two Vols., demy quarto, price £2 10*., Embellished with 46 Engravings on Steel and numerous Woodcuts, BARNES' NOTES ON TV THE NEW TESTAMENT, CRITICAL AND EXPLANATORY. Edited by Ingram Cobbin, M.A., and E. Henderson, U.D„ with iiii Introduction by the Rev. II. Stebbino, D.D. Barnes is bo well known as a coimneutator that few pcrsonii, either in tiiis country or America, can require to be told of the value of \m wriliunn. His earnestness and spirituality have commended him to those wiio ehielly desire, in a commentator, helps and suggestions to thought ; while lu^ Im m{- ficiently copious on important points to furnish the least cultivated or in- structed miud with a fund of holy learning, profound, eh•vntiu^r, and com forting. Shrinking from no dilhculty, leaving nothing nuiuvestixated wliicli it is the business of a commentator to illustrate, he has still furtluT piii'NiU'd his task, and not stopping with what is practical or doctrinal, he supplie* llie reader with as much of critical elucidation as an inquiring miud requires lor any of the ordinary purposes of Biblical investigation. Ill One Vol. super-royal Sro., price I8s. rlolh lioonts, THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS. PICTORIAL EDITION. Splendidly illustrated, comprising Ninety-seven line Engravings in the btsl style, on Wood, by the Messrs. Whympek, from Desigus uuide e.\prts»ly i'oi' the purpose by Artists of the highest celebrity. Also nniny elegant En- gravings on Steel, with a Portrait and Fac-simile of John Buujiui'it Will, Vniform with the above, price 12j. hotmd in cloth, BUNYAN'S HOLY WAR. PICTORIAL EDITION. A beautiful Work, forming nu appropriate Com|muiiiu to tlu' " ['luiouuii PiUiKiM's PRCHiiiKss." Coutaiiiing numcroug splendid illuMtrntiuUH, deiigned expressly for this Work. «AMES S. VIRTUE, CITY ROAD, AND IVY LANI, LONDON. J., leroui Woodottti, I E N T, IN, D.D,, witli mi D.D. kv persons, uithor in luo ut' his wi'itiii^s. those wlio I'hit'll.v ht ; while hu is sill'- tst cuUivnlud or in- k'vntiii);, iiiitl com- iiiuvcstixak'd which itill fui'tlicr imi'siit'd mill, ho sii|i|ilii's thi! ig iiiiiid I'vijitit'us i'or liountu, GUESS. jirnvini?* in (lio lii'sl iimih' t'\|HTs»ly I'oi' iimiiy cli'Xiiul Kit- Honvnii's Will, • , I cloth, W A R. to till' " I'in'oiiui. lust rut ioiiH, ih'*iKiii!il NE, LONDON.