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FKM.OW OK TIIF. ROYAL SOCIETIKS OP LONDON AND EDINBTTRGH ; MKMBKK OF THE INSTITUTE OF FRANf'E: OF TriK AMERICAN INSTITUTE, I'HILADEf.PHI A, ETC. ETC. i; LONDON: LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS. 1850. LONDON : . tniNTKD BY M. MASON, IVY LANE, rATKRNOSTKR HOW. 1 \o 1 -• ADVERTISEMENT. PoH'i'ioNs of the following pages ha\o already ap- peared, in substance, in the columns of the Mornm(Utorial and private appeals to their jrinierous sympathy; whilst the <,'overnment has been ai)[)(Mded to, or is being a[)pealed to, for some tangible act of symi)athising recognition, both by mtelligent individuals, and by association of men in influential bodies ! The question of — AVhat can be done for the dis- covery and relief of our absent ad\enturers in the Arctic Regions? — involves several distinct consider- ations on which I would venture, in series, to sub- mit the results of much personal reflection. These considerations may be conveniently comprised, per- haps, under the arrangement adopted in the follow- ing chapters. ^■f ■ i U li !) I ceAPTf:u I. • • THE PUBLIC DUTY, UNDER STILL EXISTING GROUNDS OF HOPE, CONCERNING OUR GALLANT COUNTRY- MEN. The p^neral solicitudo and anxiety with ourselves, it may bo remarked, is l)nt a just tribute of fe(>ling and duty from the British nation. The honour of success, if the great question were ans^vered, wouhl be our honour; tlie glory of the enterprise, were the north-west passage fairly made by oar voyagers, would be ours. We have yielded our sympathy, and that freely and generously as a people. It had been due from us on the claims of right and justice, had not a generous impulse of heart, anticipated reflection. It is a simple principle of human and relative obligations, — if we have shared m the honour of an enterprise, there is claim on us as to responsibilities ; if we were ready to appropriate to ourselves, as a people, the glory, as it is deemed, of an adventure successfully pursued, we are bound to adopt its reverses, and to help, to the uttermost, the adventurers in their difficulties— to succour them, if it be possible, in their mortal perils! Hence, in addition to the general claims of the absent ones on our common humanity — claims which we believe to be almost universally recognised; we have the additional demands of plain and obvious duty. The claim of humanity might have called 'I H I 10 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. ' i for serious thought, and active endeavours for yield- ing help to the (perhaps) otherwise lost; the claims of duty, however, go to the further extent of a deep and responsible consideration of the question — What can be done for them? — in order that mea- sures may be taken for such researches being made, as wisdom and experience may devise, and for such relief being sent forth, as generous liberality, and a due sense of relative duty, might stimulate. Whilst the friends of the missing adventurers, and those who sympathise with them throughout the country generally, naturally look to the Govern- ment to take the most prompt and liberal measures for searching the track prescribed to Sir John Franklin, — it is, no doubt, the wisdom of the Govern- ment, whilst recognising the duty of doing what human efforts may reasonably undertake for the relief of our imperiled voyagers, 1st, not to pursue, beyond all imaginable hope, researches decided upon as no longer of any use; or, 2dly, not to risk other valuable lives, after all chance of recovery of the absent might be at an end. But the time for neither of these conditions, I do firmly believe, has yet arrived; and for the following reasons: — 1. That the period for the abandonment of all hope of the recovery of our missing countrymen has not yet arrived — the prevalent convictions of those best capable of estimating the risks, and of judging on the predominance of the grounds for hopes and fears, might be sufficient for the guidance of the public sympathies. But it is not a mere vague impression by which the public duty is to be de- ■■4 ■v. PUBLIC DUTY TO OUR COUNTRYMEN. 11 cided: we have certain reasons, estimable by every mind, by which the recognised principle of duty ought to be stimulated into action. Greatly augmented, no doubt, the grounds for apprehension are, now that, for the fifth time, the season for Arctic navigation has been closed, whilst the efforts, on the part of two anxiously looked-to expeditions for search, have altogether failed of any advantageous result. Shall we, therefore, allow our increased anxieties to check further enterprise in researches? or shall despair of success be allowed to stultify the impulses of humanity? The grounds of reasonable hope forbid. (1). Sir John Ross, we cannot fail to remember, was more than four years absent — and unheard of, as well as absent; yet he returned safe, with as many of his people as would probably have survived the ordinary contingencies of life had they suffered no severity. AVhy, then, should we utterly despair of those who, incomparably better provided, have entered on another year of absence? If one body of men lived out, whilst unheard of, more than four years, why might not another body, better set out, survive a fifth year? The good hand of a gracious Providence being with them, they may survive this further trial, and Britain may yet be privileged to welcome back her all but lost sons to the land of their fathers. (2). By the case of Sir John Ross, we may ac- count for their not improbable detention, whilst yet safe, through a period of four years; and if so, it must be obvious that a variety of causes, even be- ■ I liJi 12 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. ■■91. I' I cause the expedition was safe, might explain a still further detention. It is natural to suppose, nideed, that were the ships fixed in the ice, and hopelessly fixed —the anxious voyagers would have left them hefore this, and hence we have looked for the appearance of some of them, by boats or sledges, within the scope of research of our navigators or wlialers, or overland explorers. We yet know not, indeed, whether by the western outlet of Behring Strait, that hope may not have been actually realized, but if not, we cannot determine whether an un- successful effort — perhaps too long protracted last summer — may not have induced return to their ships or to some residue of stores? Disappointment, a lingering hope of the rescue of the ships, or some other cause, utterly beyond our estimation, may have extended their stay, whilst yet unheard of, without a necessary destruction of hope. (3). That the crews of the two ships could not be summarily lost, is a circumstance highly favour- able, in this instance, as a ground of hope. In the case of the gaUant na\dgator. La Perouse, such a catastrophe actually happened. The two vessels of the expedition sailing close in company, were in- volved, it ai^pears, during the perplexity of fog or the obscurity of the night, in a common destruction on the rocks of an unknown shore: the calamity was so summary and universal that no one of the unhappy adventurers remained to tell the sad tale. But in Arctic explorations withm the confined seas being navigated by our adventurous countrymen — no such summary calamity could occur. There are I M i; ! rUBLK DUTY TO OUR COUNTRYMEN. 18 no heavy seas which could prevent escape from a shipwreck; nor could any imaginable catastrophe, by the ice of these regions, suddenly overwhelm two entire crews. For in this latter case, the very ice which might destroy the discovery ships, would yield a solid platform for refuge from the present danger, so as to give time for ulterior measures for improving, by deliberate consideration, the oppor- tunity of escape. And (4), we may add, the consoling consideration, in the way of hope, that it is hardly to be supposed that out of nearly 140 men, — surrounded by all the appliances of modern science, all the experience of repeated adventure, and all the endurance of prac- tised hardihood, — some little party of the most energetic or vigorous should not have been able to make their way, by boats or sledges, a distance of from one to two hundred leagues, — a distance, which we should presume might suffice to have taken them from any reasonably supposablc position, either within range of our returned expeditions, of the Baffin Bay whalers, or of some hunting-station, or tribe of migratory Esquimaux, from whom we might have had tidings concerning them ! 2. If the first admitted reason which might justify the suspending or abridging philanthropic eftbrts for the discovery of our missing countrymen — that is, the termination of the period of rational hope — does not, as yet, avail; neither, I will be bold to say, does the second ; viz. the special risking of other valuable lives, after all chance of recovery of the absent might, perhaps, be at an end. 14 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. Sir t If all chance of benefit to the absent, from addi- tional search, had been clearly at an end ; or if such additional search could not be made without a risk of life equivalent to that encountered by the missing party, — occasion might be offered, with strict pro- priety, for the not very tenderly but quaintly ex- pressed objection, — "Why spend good lives upon bad ones'?" But w^e are prepared to shew that very effective operations for search may be carried on with singu- larly moderate danger to the parties engaged therein. For researches — as most abundant and elaborate experiment has proved — may be made in these frozen regions, of the most arduous and enterprising kind, with but small comparative risk of human life. For up to the present absent expedition — except, in the indi\idual instance of the first land enterprise to the Frozen Ocean, where neither experience nor due preparation for safety were existing, with a small loss of hands in the expedition recently re- turned, which has been ascribed, and it is supposed justly, to a defect in the quality of the provisions, — w^e have scarcely, I believe, lost a man beyond the ordinary contingencies of a seafaring life ; nay, more, though I have not accurately investigated the question, I will venture to assert the personal persuasion that, taking the whole of our modern Arctic expeditions, from 1818 downwards, a much larger number of men have returned from these enterprises in safety and health, than would have been found alive after a corresponding period of ordinary service in a tropical climate ! ti PUBLIC DUTY TO OUR COUNTRYMEN. 15 1 % If, in the public judgment, these considerations and views find approval, su})port will, I trust, be yielded by the public pliilanthropy for encouraging, on the part of the Government, not only the re- searches now in progress by the expedition to Behring Strait, and the search overland to the Arc- tic Ocean ; but still further researches after our absent voyagers, and these of as ample and varied a description as the nature of the case may reason- ably admit, and the desperateness of the case may fairly demand. For, though at the risk of some repetition, I would respectfully submit to my countrymen, that Sir John Franklin and his brave associates are the legitimate objects of a national duty and care. They are on the public service; and though sent out technically under the orders and origination of the Admiralty, it was so only as to a department. And not only is this a Govern- ment expedition, and therefore national, but by the general interest given to its objects, and the uni- versal sympathy yielded to its perils, by the British public, ive^ as the people, have recognised it as our oivn. Shall we not, then, in our respective places and capacity, do what we may to encourage and stimulate the most complete measures of research, in humble trust, under the Divine favour, of their proving, though at the last hour, measures of effec- tive relief] .1: l(i 1.3 i CHAPTER 11. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE PLAN AND OUTSET OF THE MISSING EXPEDITION, AND OF RESEARCHES, HITHERTO MADE, FOR ITS RELIEF. It may be a convenience to general readers, and matter of information to some, to preface the sug- gestions I have to submit, as to further measures of search, with a few particulars respecting the plan and history of Sir John Franklin's expedition, and of the several searching expeditions to which the public anxiety concerning the fate of our missing adventurers, has hitherto given rise. It was in the summer of 1845, that Her Majesty's Government sent out this last exploring expedition to the Arctic Regions, in further search of the long, and heretofore vainly, sought navigable passage, by the north-w^est, betwixt the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The expedition consisted of two ships, the Erebus and the Terror^ commanded by Captain Sir John Franklin and Captain Crozier, with a complement of officers and men, altogether, of about 138. The ships were victualled for three years. They sailed from England on the 19tli of May, 1845, and were last seen on the 26th of July, of the same year, in latitude 74° 48', longitude 66° 13' W. (a position approaching the middle of Baffin Bay) moored to an iceberg, w^aiting for the opening of ' i HISTORICAL SKETCH OF RESEARCHES FOR RELIEF. 17 the 'Middle Ice,' to cross into Lancaster Sound. These ships have never since been heard of. Their instructions were to proceed to Baffin Bay, and as soon as the ice permitted to enter Lancaster Sound, and proceed west^vard through Barrow Strait in the latitude of about 7-4 j", until they reached the longitude of Cape Walker, or about 98'' west. They were then to use every effort to penetrate southward and westward towards Behring Strait; audit wns in this part that their greatest difficulties were ap- prehended. If these were proved to be insurmount- able they were next directed to return to Barrow Strait, and proceed northwards, by the broad channel between North Devon and Cornwallis' Island, com- monly called Wellington Channel, provided it ap- peared open and clear of ice. It is evident that their ability to follow either of these courses must have depended upon local circumstances of which we have no cognizance. In the year 1848, researches in three different quarters, and by three separate expeditions, were appointed to be undertaken by the Government. By Behring Strait, the Plover^ Commander Moore, was ordered on the search ; whilst Captain Kellett, of the Herald^ surveying-vessel, then in the Pacific, was instructed to take the Plover under his direc- tion, for joint research after, and relief of, the expe- dition under Sir John Franklin. The Plover left England on the 31st of January, 1848, but, being a wretched sailer, made such slow progress that siie did not reach Woahoo, in tlie ii-i' i I I i i\ h n. m m 18 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. Sandwich Islands, until the 22d of August— a period of the year too late for any effective operations within the Arctic circle.* The Herald, meanwhile, went northward as far as Cape Krusenstern, Kotzehue Sound, which she left for the southward — not being prepared to win- ter, nor for explorations among ice — on the 29th of September. The Plover was not met with during this progress of the Herald, nor any tidings heard of the missing expedition of Sir John Franklin. The second division, for search, was the overland and boat expedition, under Sir John Hichardson, for the exploration of the Arctic Sea betwixt the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, east and west ; and intermediate between the northern coast of the American continent, and lands lying proximate thereto, north and south ; — it being supposed that, if Sir John Franklin's party had been compelled to abandon their ships and take to their boats, they might very probably make for this coast. In preparation for this expedition, the men and the stores, for the most part, designed for the enter- prise, were embarked at Gravesend, on board of ships of the Hudson's Bay Company, on the 4th of June, 1847. The Commander of the expedition, accompanied by Dr. Rae, left Liverpool on the 25th of March, 1848; and they succeeded in form- ing a junction with Mr. Bell, in charge of the boats and the men designed for the adventure, at Methy Portage, on the 2()th of June. * An abstract of the important researches of the summer of 1 849, by and connected with the Plover, is reserved for the Appendix. m m HISTORICAL SKETCH OF RESEARCHES FOR RELIEF. 19 '.; ixtaching the last portage on Slave River, in the middle of July, the sea-going party embarked in their boats, and proceeded by that river, into Slave Lake, and from thence, north-westward by the Mackenzie, till they reached the sea, on the -Ith of Augnst. Coasting eastward, after rounding Cape Bathurst, they reached the gulf into which the Coppermine River flows, by the end of the month. Their boats were abandoned at the commencement of their land journey, on their return by the line of the Coppermine southward, — on which journey they set out on the 3rd of September, and on the 13th they reached their destined quarters at Fort Con- fidence at the north-east corner of Great Bear liake. In this enterprise, the coast line from the Mac- kenzie to the Coppermine, was, according to Sir John Richardson's instructions, carefully examined ; whilst several hundreds of Esquimaux (comprising numerous parties and various tribes) were communi- cated with in respect of the object of their search, but without any trace of the missing expedition being met with, or any tidings of it being obtained. The encumbrance of the navigation by ice, in the latter part of their progress along the coast to the eastward, prevented the carrying out of that portion of the Admiralty Instructions which relates to the examination of the western and southern shores of Wollaston Land, — lying northward of the Copper- mine. Sir John Richardson, after wintering at Fort Confidence, commenced, along with the Europeans and some others of the party, their return homeward. I ; 4 m 20 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. h 1, ' in the beginning of May, and arrived in England on the Gth of November, 1849, — liaving left Dr. Rae, with a small but cfFeetive party, who volun- teered for the service, to make tlie unaceom])lisli(Hl researches during the summ(M' of that ycNav. Tliese searches were, if ])ossible, designed to extend to tlie examination of the passages b(^t\v(MMi Wollaston, and Banks, and Victoria Lands, — so as to cross tlie routes of some of the dt^tached parties expected to have been sent out by Sir James C. Ross. The third, and most ex])(Misively ap])oint(^d, sec- tion of the expeditions for search, was that under Sir James Ross and Captain Bird — comprising two ships, the Enterprlze and Investigator. These left the Thames on the 12th of :May, 184S; entered Baffin Bay early in July ; left the Danish settlement of Upernavik on the 13th of that month; cleared the IVIiddle Ice, August the 20th, and entered the harbour of Port Leopold, where they wintered (and, it may be added, summered too) on the 11th of September. During the months of May and June, 1849, the north and west coasts of North Somerset were explored, and some other journeys, of little importance, made. It was not till August the 28tli, that the ships succeeded in getting clear of their harbour — having been there detained for a year, lacking only a fortnight ! On the 1st of September — the fourth day after their release — the ships got unfortunately beset in a pack of floating ice, where, helplessly detained, they were drifted along with it fairly out of Lancaster Sound into Baffin Bay, and did not obtain their release till the 24th or 25th of I :; \v^^ HISTORICAL SKETCH OF RESEARCHES FOR RELIEF. 21 September, — a period deemed too late to attempt any further enterprises in these fiigid regions. On the 3rd of November they arrived off Scarborough. The foregoing particulars, in respect of the differ- ent expeditions for searcli after Sir John Franklin, are, it might be presumed, sufficiently well known ; but this abstract has been inserted here for con- I venience of reference. Finally, we have to notice, the sending out of the North Star, store-ship, Mr. James Saunders, master commanding, into Baffin B.iy, in the summer of 1849, — laden with supplies designed for the pre- vious expedition. The North Star sailed from the Thames on the 1 6th May, 1849, and was seen July 19th, in latitude 74" 3' N., longitude 59" 40' W., off Devil's Point, waiting for a passage round, or through, the Middle Ice of Baffin Bay, and has not since been heard of. " The main object of the voyage," with the North Star, " was, first, by replenishing the stock of pro- visions in the ships of Sir James Ross, to prevent the return of the Investigator, Captain Bird, to Eng- land in the summer of 1849 ; in order that Captain Bird with his ship might continue to co-operate with Sir James Ross in prosecuting his search, during the summer of 1850 ; and, secondly, in case of not meeting with the Investigator, or her boats, to land the necessary supplies at Possession Bay, Cape Hay, Cape Crawford, and Cape York, or Whaler Point," — all being places on the south side of lian- caster Sound and Barrow Strait. But of these several places, a decided preference was to be given c 'ill ■ I 22 lilt HIANKLIN KXrKDITlON to Whaler Point, nt the cutiimce of Port FiCopold, if attaiiiiible. And, in the event of tlie sliip not bein^ iil)le to reach any of tliese phiees, I^ond's Bay, or A^nes Monument, might be adopted for the de- posit of stores. Should time [)ermit — after the eompU'tion of her primary services — the North Star mi<;iit run up, if the ice were o{)en, to tlie head of Bafhn Bay, and look into Smith's and Jones' Sound for anv traces of Sir John Franklin's shi^)s. But it was ordered, and the order was reiterated, that the conunander of the North Star " should carefully avoid risking all hazard of being detained throughout the winter." In giving an abstract of these instructions, I cannot refrain from quoting the concluding paragraph, as peculiarly honourable to the framers of a document of this kind, usually so formal, — '' and Me earnestly hope that, by the care t)f a wise and merciful Pro- vidence, you will be enabled to render important assistance to the expeditions which have ])receded you ; and that your endeavours, as well as theirs, may be crowned with success." The extreme lateness of the period to which the JSorth Star must have been detained before she succt^eded in getting across Baffin Bay — if she suc- ceeded at all ? — must have prevented the possibility of the accomplishment of the essential design of her being sent out, and returning the same season. Should she have crossed to the westward at the close of the season for navigation — it is not impos- sible but that the zeal of her commander for the performance of his instructions, might lead him to ;' f 1 .1 HISTORICAL SKinCH OF Hi:sKAU( MKS 1 ()!{ KI.I.Ii:!'. '23 attempt to reach Lcojjold Island, or otlicr more advaiic(Hl station in Harrow Strait, for the huidiii*; of stores, so us to invohc tlie sliip in a constrained winterinneral and well-known fact, in connection with Arctic navigation, that the ice is disposed to separate earhest from the western sides of the land, and to make heaviest and most continuous t k:' HISTORICAL SKETCH OF RESEARCHES FOR RELIEF. 25 lodgments upon their eastern shores. The con- verse is, of course, the general fact in respect to the different sides of bays, straits, or other navigable channels. Hence, Baffin Bay is the earliest clear on the eastern side, and Regent Inlet is often quite clear of ice, along a great extent of coast on the east side, whilst from Port Leopold, inclusive, down- ward to the bottom of this singular bight, the shore is inaccessible to ships. For sMps^ therefore, designed for active opera- tions, a harbour should be sought on the eastern^ or north-eastern? side of any bay, inlet, or channel designed for wintering in ; in other words, on the western or north-western coast of the proximate lands. These well-known facts being, from pecu- liar circumstances, perhaps, overlooked, or their due importance overruled — occasioned the deten- tion of the recent searching expedition in Port Leopold, until the 28th of August ; whilst a whaler, sailing from Aberdeen in the early spring, was free in the western waters of Baffin Bay by the 13th of June, and one or two others in Barrow Strait, within sight of Leopold Island, in the beginning of August ! It is but justice, however, to our late searching expedition, to remark, that ships winter- ing in any of the harbours within these severely frozen regions, are always in a disadvantageous position for early operations — a circumstance well brought out by Sir John Barrow in his abstract of one of Captain Parry's Voyages. In urging now \.\\v necessity for further search for H V' I J I J|!. % 1: til • ■ *. if. ri^ •2() THF, FRANKI,IN lAl'EDITION. the Franklin expedition, equally by the direction recently tried by Sir James Ross, as elsewhere,— it may be proper to notice, that neither of the two starting points of new discovery, where traces of the missing ships were most reasonably expected to be met with, — viz. the entrance of Wellington Channel and Cape Walker — have been at all examined. For neither the visit of a party of men to Cape Hurd, lying much to the eastward of the entrance of this inlet, nor the intercepted, and therefore imperfect, examination with the ships, subsequently, yield us any useful information, positive or negative, as to the missing expedition having passed that way. Nor are we yet better informed in respect of the missing ships, or traces of the adventurers, being to be met with near Cape Walker. For, as far as the accounts yet published enable one to judge, no nearer approximation was made to Cape Walker, the headland towards w^hich Sir John Franklin was, by his instructions, expressly directed to make — than about forty geographical miles. How far across this space the view obtained by Sir James Ross would extend, no certain guide is before us, as we do not know the height of " the high land in the neighbourhood of Cape Bunny, ' from whence the ice-covered region westward and northward was observed. It is important, however, in form- ing any judgment on the subject, to bear in mind, that it would have required an elevation of 1000 feet to render, in the clearest state of the atmo- sphere, and under the ordinary quantity of refrac- tion, the mast-head of any discovery ship visible FHSTORK AL SKKTCH OF RESEARCHES FOR RELIEF. 21 1-- above the horizon. The probability I suppose to be that the height ascended was greatly less, and, if so, the distance overlooked must have been pro- portionally shorter. Whilst referring to this particular, it may advan- tageously, perhaps, be stated, that very much un- certainty prevails as to judgments formed in regard to the nature of the ice, or of its compactness, when viewed at great distances ; so much so, that where the ice, when in extensive bodies, might clearly appear to the eye not greatly elevated, to be per- fectly compact and unbroken, or of a peculiar quality, such as hummocky or smooth, thei'e might be wide channels of water, at tlie proper season, or the quality of the ice, in the remoter part of the region apparently within view, might be totally different from that assumed. In my own experi- ence, the fact of this exceeding deceptiveness of vision, in judging of the condition of the ice be- yond moderate limits, has been proved in almost numberless cases ; so that I ha^ e found men of very much experience sometimes greatly misled in assuming the state of the ice actually to be what, by clear and distinct vision and telescopic examina- tion, it appeal's to be. The object of the foregoing remarks will, it is hoped, be clearly understood, not as having any reference to the conduct of the expedition recently returned, but simply to the establishment of this important proposition, — viz. that, notwithstanding what has been done, researches are yet as urgently called for as at first, by the eastern inlet from Baffin K- I 4, ■ it I i i.i' M, f 28 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. Bay, through Lancaster Sound, and by the western outlet through Behring Strait, as well as by the extension of overland and boating researches north- ward, if possible, beyond Wollaston and Victoria Lands. For such further researches the public sympathy and common humanity, yea, common justice^ too, to those whom we have sent upon the adventure, urgently call; and such further researches these principles likewise claim to be made — to the most liberal extent consistent with reasonable practicability, remaining hope, and the fair prospect of safety to new adventurers. There remains only to be noticed, in connection with these records of the results of the means for search hitherto put into operation, the rewards which have been offered, for the stimulating of private, as well as public, enterprise in this cause of humanity. The devoted and persevering wife of the com- mander of tl:c missing expedition, was the first to endeavour, by her private means, to stimulate re- search on the part of the whalers, by offering, in 1848, a reward of £2000, and in 1849, one of £3000, "or a proportion thereof according to ser- vices rendered, to any ship or ships, which, depart- ing from the usual fishing grounds, might discover, and, if needed, afford effectual relief to the missing expedition, or any portion of it." The reward, if claimable, it was most judiciously proposed, should be distributed among the owners, captains, officers, and seamen, in the same proportions as if similar HISTORICAL SKETCH OF RESEARCHES FOR RELIEF. 29 value of produce from the fishenj had been obtained — a plan, which was calculated (from the arrange- ments made with the crews of the whalers in rendering their wages in considerable measure de- pendent on success) to reward every one rateably, according to his equitable claims and position. By Her Majesty's Government, another pecuniary reward, £20,()0(), was offered in March, 1849, with the view of a further stimulation of enterprise. This sum was assured " to such private ship, or by distribution among such private ships, or to any exploring party or parties, of any country, as might, in the judgment of the Board of Admiralty, have rendered efficient assistance to Sir John Franklin, his ships, or their crews, and might have contri- buted directly to extricate them from the ice." These rewards utterly failed in producing any effective efforts for search on the part of the whalers, — and for reasons easy to be understood. First, the Government reward was too late in point of time, in being offered, as it was not promulgated until the 23rd of March, after most of the whalers had sailed, and were therefore without order*, or authority for departing from the usual fishing ground. And, secondly, the reward was only claim- able on the absolute condition of a successful search^ — a contingency so great as by no means to justify, in a commercial adventure, the sacrificing of the in- terests of a voyage undertaken at so much cost and risk. Had there been a provision for rewarding (as Lady Franklin in her private offering judiciously proposed) extraordinary efforts, or special researches i .! n i ■ V _X7 I f it' ■f . 1 ao riri; franklin kxtkhition, in quartei's I'emoto from tlie ordinary fishing grounds, for the purpose designated, — something effective would, no doubt, have been attempted. Encourage- ments of this nature, — proportionate or reason- able rewards for judicious and energetic efforts beyond the line of whale-fishing operations — could alone serve, where tlu? reward for success was, for a Government reward, but moderate, to turn the commercial enterprise of that region into aids for more extensive search. The difhculty of remu- nerating too many competitors, or of adjudicating on the merits of different claims, might, perhaps, be met, by requiring researches beyond specified limits, or the discovery of any traces of the Franklin ex- pedition, as a condition of any daim at all, and by appointing a board of honorary adjudicators, (after the manner proposed by Lady Franklin) for investi- gating the several cases and apportioning rewards to the efforts made and the services performeu. \ 1, |.^;« |;l A. :U CHAPTER III. CONSIDERATIONS AS TO PRESENT MEASURES FOR THE DISCOVERY AND RELIEF OF THE FRANKLIN EXPE- DITION. Rational measures for relief must naturally have relation to well-considered prohahility in respect of the existing position of the absent ex]iedition. But whilst certain limits may thus be set to the sphere of desirable research, all assumptions of deciding on any part of the extent lying betwixt Cape Walker, on the east, and the range of the Plover's researches, on the WTst, must be mere speculation. As to cer- tain parts, Avhere the expedition under Sir John Franklin assuredly is not^ the recent researches of Sir James Ross and Sir John Richardson have, within their very limited ranges, afforded ton- elusive results. But as to the regions proximate to Cape Walker, and from thence, westward, in a parallel remote from the northern face of the American continent, we yet have ascertained no- thing ; and, therefore, even probahh determinations can amount to no more than uncertain conjecture. Within any part of this wide expanse — above 1000 geographical miles in width, east and west, reckoned as far west as Point Barrow, and of three or four degrees of latitude in extent, north and south, — the expedition, if locked up in the ices remote from tlie American coast, may be reasonably sought for. M I I p. r V * i!i J h 'i. 32 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. And even out of these limits — assuming the ad- mitted possibility of the expedition failing in its primary direction, having tried Wellington Channel, or some other of the proximate inlets promising the chance of a passage north about Parry Islands — research might wisely be directed to more northern positions, and, consequently, over a wider range. The impression, indeed, seems to have gone abroad, that the missing expedition must have made such progress in the line of the Admiralty instructions, as to render research for it now most desirable by Behring Strait; and, moreover, that in case of the ships being hopelessly hampered, though safe, the adventurers most likely abandon- ing their ships, would, before the present period, be probably in progress of the endeavour to make their way over the ice, or by boats, in the same western direction. To this direction, therefore, the minds of many very naturally look with hope, as not unlikely to be that in which successful research may yet be pur- sued. It is, indeed, by no means beyond all hope that our brave fellows may themselves, by boats, if not with ships, still succeed in making the progress which constituted the grand design of their bold enterprise. And in this view, hope has been, in some degree, revived, and that not unreasonably, by the very failure of the recent efforts to find any traces of their progress. The opinion is now hardly to be resisted that, at an early period of theii* ad- ventures, not improbably in the summer of 1845, or at all events in that of 1846, Sir John Franklin's I 1! CONSIDERATIONS FOR ITS DISCOVERY AND RELIEF. 33 ships entered upon new ground, near Cape Walker, and penetrated beyond it into hitherto unknown regions. If so, subsequent summers may hr ^ stimulated their exertions and added to their pro- gress westward, till hope, even if struggling against apparent impossibilities, might urge the persever- ance, summer after summer, to the present time, for the chance of still accomplishing, by all means, or by any means, by ship, by boats, or by sledges, the grand adventure. But if such were their encouragements, and such their aim, which would account for the hanging together of all the party, that all hands might unite in the general triumph, it might be of vital importance to endeavour, by most effective arrangement, to meet them from a western position, so as to yield to them the earliest possible succour. Whilst these prevalent ideas seem to be so ex- ceedingly well-founded, as urgently to call for the prompt and efficient search already provided for by the Government, by the way of the Pacific, they can afford no satisfactory grounds, I conceive, for the abridgment, much less for the abandonment, of the most energetic pursuit of the Baffin Bay route ; for should the fact be even so, that Sir John Franklin had abandoned his ships and taken to the ice on any direction of travel, yet, even in such case, we conceive that the ships should be sought for. If the adventurers, as a body, should have aban- doned their ships, is it not still more than probable, that, under the anxieties and severities which they must have endured, there may be those among them M" I •■1 il' »; f 34 THE FRANKLIN EXrEDITION. wlio, ])aralyso(l by dcprixations and hardships, or dcbilitut(>(l and Avastrd by disease, would be in- capable of the like enterprise, and must, therefore, by necessity, stick to the sliips to the last! Nay more; jiainful as such an idea may be, we must not, whilst considering the means of succour, shrink from the contemplation of the sad jiossibility that the whole party, undcn* the morbid influence of cheerless despondency, might be reduced into a like condition of personal helplessness, so as to be incapable of rescuing themselves! Admitting, as inevitably we must adnut, a possibility of this kind — we find an additional claim on our common humanity to provide not only some means, bi.i all reasonable and available means, for meeting, so far as Innnan judgment may, the various anxious con- tingencies in e\'ery quarter at once. r ' • Iff'' l <■ t 1 iif< In venturing to submit to the public a general plan of search for the missing expe(lJ*ion, I cannot but feel a shrinking from the supposition of any assumption of superiority of judgment in a matter in which there are so many, who, by positive ex- perience in the icy-regions of the north-west, are much better qualified for the task than myself. But I have been urged to the undertaking by the solicitation or encouragement of those whose posi- tion and judgment are such as to claim my deepest consideration ; whilst much attention to Arctic re- searches, both by considerable experience and care- ful investigation, have so far cleared my own mind, on a A ariety of practical points, as to render it a 1. ( ONSIDKUAI'IONS I'OU ITS 1)IS( OVKHV AM) Hl.l II'. i6 (luestion, wlicthcM', by the blessing of Pro l(»nce on my Imniblc ('n(l(\'ivonr, I mi«^ht not he rnablcd, in sonio small (logi(H^ at least, to aid in tlio cause of philanthropy and lunnanity, with reference to our gallant connniserated coiuitrymen I A comprehensive scheme of research nuist, ob- viously, (Mubrace, at least, all the lines or directions of advance into the ice-bound regions, whicli occa- sioned th(^ em])loyment of the several expeditions, ])roject(ul and undertaken by the Government, in the year 1848. These expeditions, the history of which we have already sketched, advancing from wi(l(4y separated quarters into the region of desirable in- vestigation ; that is by Behring Strait, by the Mac- kenzie River, and by Baffin Bay, — were designed to combine into one grand and com])i'ehensive plan ; — a plan wliicli, had not most untoward circumstances defeated it, must, in all human probability, have obtained, by this time, satisfactory information con- cernhig our missing countrymen. As a general plan, therefore, and one so well digested and ably arranged, I have little to suggest in the wixy of essential alteration. For what I should deem it necessary and fitting to submit relates rather to the manner of carrying out a great and eftective scheme of search, to the details of operations and aids to transglacial journeys, — rather than to the general lines of search, or ta points for special examination. The original scheme of the Admiralty, as is well known, consisted of a series of three distinct enter- prises,— the renewal of the irhole of which, with *> ' ' . f |l , ii r I! m THE FRANKLIN KXrEDITION. Monio modilicationy, by the Government, this publi- cation is desif^ned most strenuously to plead for and urge. Takinjjf up the consideration of each of these diverse directions in order, we shall be enabled at once to describe tlu^ general ])lan, and to embody the modifications by which, it is believed, the entire scheme may be rendered statisfactory and effective. I. As to the direction of search by Dehring Strait. To this line of search, the attention of the Govern- ment has been already directed so as to result in the appointment of a well-fitted expedition, consist- ing of the two ships returned from Baffin Bay. The expedition, already on its way, proceeded to sea from Greenhithe on the 12tli of the current month, January; the Enterprize^ under the command of Captain Collinson, C.B., and the Investigator^ under Commander Maclure, who had served as first-lieu- tenant of the Enterprize, in her preceding voyage. These ships, somewhat unfortunately, are dull sailers, — a deteriorating quality by reason of which (in her extreme degree) the Plover s enterprise of 1848 was so sadly retarded. But in this case, there w^as no choice, as no other ships at the command of Government, fit for the special service, could be got ready in time. Besides, it must be satisfac- tory to the public generally to know, that measures have judiciously been taken for the giving of these ships the aid of steamers in more than one quarter (it is hoped for the passage of the Magellan Strait), so that we may confidently expect them, under the ;ii ■■iVA of L'es ;er CONSIDERATIONS K J ' 5 .i'i : it I 1 44 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. general method hereafter proposed) would be no burden on, or encumbrance to, any of the exploring vessels. AVhilst an endeavour might be made to pass up Jones Sound to effect a jimction, in operations, with the vessel proceeding up Wellington Channel, — there need be no mutual dependency. The boat would seek its own safety at the close of its opera- tions, by going up to the r^'fuge-ship at Port Leopold, or by endeavouring to join some one of the whalers by which the boat's crew might obtain a passage home. Could the North Star, now on her adventure in Baffin Bay, be confidently calculated on, for being intercepted on her return, she might be made avail- able for working into this plan,— as the ship, for instance, proposed to take quarter at Port Leopold. In such case, any of the officers or crew who might volunteer for further service, and for whom useful employment should be devised, might be retamed ; but it would of course be requisite, according to their just expectations, to provide, either by passage in whalers, or otherwise, for the return of the resi- due of the people to England. An arrangement of this kind, for the renewal of the search for Sir John Franklin by the way of Baffin Bay, — it will be obvious, I think, if fully carried out,— would embrace, and that with every prospect of effective operation, all that was included in the admirable plan, embodied in the Admiralty Instructions for Sir James Boss, and considerably more. B\it whilst thcfse various vessels would, according \i 1 CONSIDERATIONS FOR ITS DISCOVERY AND RELIEF. 45 to the scheme, constitute, in one respect, a system of combined operations ; in another respect I would earnestly recommend an essential deviation from the plan of former expeditions, — by arranging for the independent operation of each section of the expe- dition. Let the combination, as to plan of opera- tions, be made in England ; but let each Commander be responsible only to Head-quarters for his con- duct on the duty specially assigned to him. Several advantages would be gained by this ar- rangement. First, it would avoid the loss of time produced by sailing under the orders of a principal officer, generally commanding, which necessarily reduces the progress of the expedition to the speed of the slowest ship, and to the measure of activity or tact of the least effective officer or crew. Secondly, it would give each Commander the opportunity of taking the independent advantage of every opening of the ice, or other circumstance, by which his owai progress might be flicilitated, and the season for navigating the ice-encumbered seas of the north-west, extended. And, thirdly, it would render every section of the expedition, a principal ; every Commander would feel himself in the highest and most responsible position ; he, with his officers and crew, would reap the undivided rewards of their own enterprise; the credit, if any, which their exertions and zeal might earn, would be secure to themselves ; and none of the errors or failures of others could involve them in either undeserved censvu'es, or uselesss and onerous responsibilities. Another deviation from the ordinary practice, is, IL* ' i . I. !■'. (I w V •I! IjI 46 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. as I conceive, strongly to be recommended ; that is, the employment of men thoroughly fixmiliar with Arctic navigation, such as Captains of whalers, in an independent position, for a portion of the service now suggested. For in respect to this proposition, I would take occasion to express the strong personal conviction, that it is time that the exclusiveness of the National or Government departments should be broken into when services are to be performed not strictly departmental, in which others have had more continuous training and experience; and so, as in an object like that before us, that the mer- chant navy and its more intelligent and talented officers should receive more consideration, and have a better position. Many naval officers, I believe, there are, who would liberally concur in any reason- able measure for improving the grade of a olass of men to whom, as a commercial nation, Britain owes so much, feeling assured that the British navy could lose nothing by the occasional bringing into joint operation the two maritime services, whilst a deserving and skilful body of practical navigators would be better appreciated. The experiment, at least, is w^orth the trial when so fwourable an opportunity presents itself as the present; when the cause is not geographical re- search, or astronomical and scientific observation, but the researches of humanity. Among the present Commanders of our northern whalers, there are men who are well known to possess both the inclination and the ability to take a share in an exploration of this kind; and who, with crews selected out of CONSIDERATIONS FOR ITS DISCOVERY AND RELIEF. 47 their own service, would, I am persuaded, ably perform such duty as might be entrusted to their zeal and perseverance. Hitlierto, I ma} add, the men of this class who have b(^en (employed in our modern discovery-ships, have had an inferior position assigned to them. They have not, therefore, been fairly tried, nor th(>ir class of men fairly searched for the most talented and the best. As a general fact, indeed, whoever among the whaling captains might volunteer on such a service, no one, whose talent enabbnl him to secure an unfailing command, under a good and respectable mercantile firm, would have been justified, personally, in undertaking so inferior a position. But, for the position now suggested, the best men, would, of course, be the readiest to offer ; and one or more of this descri])tion, we happen to know, have already offered, Avho, did the oppor- tunity permit, would be able to do their country good service. Should it become an object with the Admiralty, as we fervently trust it wdll, — for without it the sympathizing country, I may venture to say, would never be satisfied, — to pursue, in the vigorous and comprehensive manner which are due to the im- [)ortance of the research by Lancaster Sound, some such plan as is here submitted ; it \vould be very practicable, as to mo it appears, to explore, with comparative safety^ a very large extent of those regions, proximate to, and extending from, Barrow Strait, on whicli the track of Sir John Franklin might be supposed to lie. % ,!•( I ^: . ij ' I 1 I ( t i 48 THE FRANKLIN EXriiDITlON. r, m ■■<:■>: Hi;' m Wore the principal ship, desi^i^ned as a depot and refiij>e, as we liave assuuKMl, at Port Leopold, where there arc ahundant resources ; or should she proceed on any limited service during the residue of open-navigation, being careful to return to tlie specified quarters for the winter, — then the scout ships (as we niiglit term them), might proceed, with much confidence, as far as circiunstances would enable them, on the lines of search previously as- signed them respectively. Experience has now indicated that, from what- ever distance they might proceed beyond the port or ports of refuge, within at least 800 to 400, if not up to 500 miles, the crews, if necessitated, might make their way back to their resources by means of boats or sledges ; whilst from the extremity of the positions respectively attained by the scout ships, travelling parties m'ght proceed for some hundreds of miles further in such directions as the trending of the land, or the probable course of navigation, towards the south-west and west, might suggest. By arrangements of this nature, the various parties would have ' undor their lee,' to speak in nautical technicality, a place of succour and refuge, so that no more danger woidd be incurred, except as to repetitions of the stages, by those proceeding to the greatest distance from the head-quarters, than by the others. No doubt a difficulty might exist as to the secur- ing of the scout ships in safe winter-quarters ; but my own impression is that, if they were unable to liarbour within shelter of land, they would not be 1 CONSIDERATIONS FOU ITS I)IS( OVERV AND Ri:i,IF,F. 49 ill very much dauj^cv if they were fVo/eii iij) in the middle of the pack, or within a slieet of held ice, so that they were sufhci(»ntly remote from tlie shore. For, proximitij to land, it is, which is well known to yield the most destructive influence to the movement and pressure of the Arctic ices ; a fact, indeed, which has had abundant verification in the history of our modern expeditions for northern research. But a furtlicr fact, accordin^^ at least, to my strong personal impression, has come out of the same experience — that the practice of seeking proximity with, and clinging to, ice-bound shores, either for the purpose of securing the progress made or under the temptation of making better progress by means of tidal or other freqiu^nt openings near the land, has been very detrimental — that is, wher(> the progress sought was immediately upon a western sho-e — to the results obtained in more than one of these expeditions. For the further securing of the safety of the ad- venturers in the vessels wdiicli might advance singly into new, and, perhaps, dangerous rc^gions, or into positions from whence, at the season designed for their return, they might not be able to retreat— it might be permitted them to abandon their vessels, in such case, and malie for the nearest depot, or refuge ship. The moderate value of these vessels, by reason of their smallness, is a circumstance that would be favourable for disposing the Government to make a more hasty sacrifice of property for the benefit of the adventurers, as to their personal saf(>ty, ill the general enterprise. ]i X'l \^ #JI I I 50 THE FRANKLIN KXrEDITION. 1:' ;. f In r(^<(arss have occasioned the destruction of almost any vessel of such a siz(^ as those lately (Muidoyed for discovery in the Polar Regions." The record of wluit she encountered (of which a brief abstract is given in the passage we now quote from) is perfectly won- derful, especially when considered in connection with the important fact, that, after all, " the little bark took home its crew in safety !" " Hence, it is evident (it is added), that a vessel intended for discovery in the Polar Seas, should be just largc^ enough for conveying tiu^ requisite stones and i)rovisions, and for affonling comfortable ac- commodation for the navigators, but no largcn-. Perhaps a vessel of about loO tons burden would be fully sufficient to answer every purpose." Other views, possessing somewhat unusual ana- logy with those herein submitted, considering the great interval of time that has elapsed, and the immense experience that has been obtained, since the work on the Arctic Regions was written — are comprised in some succeeding pages of tliat work, which, however, we will not now delay to analyze. It should not be overlooked, in connection with the proposal for the employment of vessels of a very small class in Arctic explorations, that some importance is to be attached to the ny, or style of ^1 I V i ! ' ^^ hi ':■:■ f m iV !> - 1| ^ ' 'III :'• 52 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. equipment in masts and sails, of these vessels. A sloop-rig, for instance, comprising mainly and most essentially, ' fore and aft sails,' would be very inconvenient, and, among crowded ice, where it is important to have the power of stopping the head- way by backing the sails, very disadvantageous. A schooner-rig would, in some respects, be much better, because of the means of arresting the head-way by backing the top-sails, and for being well adapted for working to windward in intricate passages. But the rig of the ketch might, for all objects, perhaps, be the most desirable, — this species affording such proportion of squai^e-saih, as would adapt the vessel for all the requirements of ' backing and hlling,' and of power for ' boring' in packed ice, before the wind. But whatever the kind of rig might be, the quality oi fast-sailing, too often overlooked, would be of singular advantage. Some allusion, too, perhaps, might here be pro- perly made, to the subject of the employment of steam, as an auxiliary propelling power, in Arctic navigation. In calm weather, or light contrary winds, generally, or in such wind and weather with slack but encumbering ice — circumstances which often go together, — the advantage of steam must be obvious. But the encumbrance of space for machinery, and for fuel for generating the requisite steam, are serious drawbacks to the specified advan- tages ; besides the risk of crippling the ship, by the action of the ice on the external apparatus for propulsion, to which, obviously, it must be more or less exposed. In tlie case of the screw-propeller. I. i s CONSIDERATIONS FOR ITS DISCOVERY AND RELIEF. O ^ y til one serious objection strikes me very forcibly. The screw itself, we know, can be easily detached and raised up out of the way of damage ; but the ad- ditional projecting stern-post (below) is left in a condition of much exposure ; so that a very slight nip below, or even the pressing of the ship heavily against deeply immersed masses of ice under the lee, in boring through a compact pack or stream, would be very liable to twist or carry off the stern- post, together with that essential machine appended to it, the rudder! A plan proposed by Sir John Ross, of so arranging the usual system of paddle- wheels, that they could be easily raised up clear of any impediments, might, if found feasible, avoid this serious objection to the use of the screw. In making this objection, it should also be mentioned — as the ships under Sir John Franklin are provided mth screw-propellers — that we should not appre- hend, in the case of the missing expedition, any disastrous consequences from such a cause ; since, in the event of the worst result occurring, which we have assumed to be not improbable, the safety of the ships, as to their floating qualities, would not necessarily be endangered. 1 I r. In the carrying out of researches under the views above set forth, two points will strike the reflecting and sympathising reader as of vital importance, viz. — promptness in the setting forth of the expe- dition yet to be provided, and liberality in the provision of means for carrying out the requisite researches. In regard to the importance of prompt- E ' ' ' ■ ! ■ . .1' «:l ' i 'I. d 54 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. NESS in DESPATCH, as to the measures designed, it may be observed, that the capability of reaching the scene of commencing operations, before the time when the navigation becomes usually open, is of vast importance, in order to the benefiting, in full measure, by the brief season available for navi- gation in these frigid regions. Promptness in arranging for an expedition in the direction of Baffin Bay, is essential for the providing of proper vessels, and for their due and effective preparation for their object. It is most important, likewise, for the securing of the services of the men and officers best experienced in the navigation of these peculiar regions; for even those among the captains or sea- men ordinarily engaged in the northern whale- fishery, who might strongly be disposed to embark on this enterprise of humanity, cannot be expected to keep themselves disengaged much longer, now that the time for fitting out the whalers is so near at hand. As to LIBERALITY iu thcsc mcasurcs, which have become a national duty, need it be urged that it would bo pitiful in a great nation — our stopping to inquire ac what cost the work of public duty and moral obligation can be effected ] Profuseness and wastefulness are equally to be deprecated by good sense, as now they prevalently are by public feeling ; but a niggard contraction of means for the accom- plishment of a national duty is still more to be de- precated, and that both by common honesty and Christian duty — for the abridgment of cost, so as to leave anything undone which may or can reasonably It! i ', ^1 (ONSIDERATIONS FOR ITS DISCOVEUV AND RELIEF. 00 be done, is, in a case of this kind, an abandonment, by leaving a part whicli might be the real part, of the whole Christian duty ; whilst the contraction of measures, so as to render them inefficacious, is but a plausible cheat ! Vi \ ; 1 I ■;' I i t* I. i, il 5(; CHAPTER IV. u :U <> \\ THE PASSAGE OF THE MIDDLE ICE — OR THE CROSSIN« OF BAFFIN BAY. A GRAND difficulty, in north-western adventure, lies almost at the very entrance of the ice-encumbered regions ; — the passage of the middle ice of Baffin Bay. The eastern side of Davis Strait, at the ter- mination of the spring of the year, may, perhaps, be quite open to navigation ; and the northern and north-western parts of Baffin Bay, with a consider- able space within Lancaster Sound, may, at the same time, be clear of ice, whilst a formidable, and often an impenetrable, barrier — that of the middle ice— lies between. The important bearing which the accomplishment of the passage across Baffin Bay, to the westward, has on the limited extent of the season which may be subsequently devoted to researches, or other operations, encourages me to devote a chapter to this particular subject, with the hope that the facts herein brought together may be of some utility in regard to the navigation of this formidably embarrassed region. In consequence of this opposing barrier, the western side of Baffin Bay is not known to be ac- cessible to ships coming in from the southward and eastward until after the spring of the year. The body of ice referred to, generally occupies, during the winter and spring seasons, the greater part, if ll; THE PASSAGE OF THE MIDDLE ICE. 57 not thp entire, of this Bay and region, with the channels, straits, sounds, bays, or other inlets, con- nected therewith. The same body or continuity of ice, too, extends to the southward into Davis Strait — filling Hudson Bay, usually forming a packed sea-board along the shores of Labrador, filling the Strait of Belleisle, and partly embracing the island of NcAvfoundland. This ice consists of 'heavy' and 'light' packed- ice, and floes, with bergs, and fragments of bergs, interspersed throughout. The icebergs, supplied in immense fragments, not unfrequently 400 to 600 feet in thickness or more, from the glaciers of the north, may be considered, in respect to their periods of growth, as millenial, or vastly more ancient still ; the ' heavy ' packed-ice, must be derived from the salt-water produce of several years duration, either within the great basin of the Polar Seas, or within sheltered inlets where the results of the icy forma- tion are but seldom dislodged; whilst the main body, which occupies, chiefly, the northern and western parts of this extensive surface of sheltered and inland seas, is but of perennial growth. The grand produce in ict, of the several prevailing species, as it may hence be inferred, is commonly destroyed year by year, — being partly dissolved, within the district of its origination, by the w^armth of the sun, and partly aesiroyed by the higher temperature and more disturbed seas of the parallels, southward, into which it is emptied out by the simple operation of the prevailing cur- rents coming down from the north. Hence, it is, «l I I' 1, ' ii I;ff l> H X 11 ill' V ■ :• ■ll 58 TlIK FRANKLIN EXI'EUITION. tliat the Banks of Newfoiindluiid, and the naviga- tion of the Atlantic to a considerable extent south- ward and westward from thence, are so often en- cumbered by bodies of packed ice, or icebergs, com- prising, in considerable part, the overflow of the ice-harvest of the North. The fact of this prevalent destruction of the Baffin Bay ice is strikingly shown, by the astonish- ing change which takes place in the navigation during the autumn of the year. Ordinarily, this change is such, that encumbrances of ice which may have detained the navigators, pressing westward across the Bay, until the very end of summer, will often be found, a month or two later, to have ceased to present difficulties, and sometimes to have almost vanished. So that lands to the westward, Avhich had been throughout ice-bound, to a width of many degrees of longitude, in the months of June and July, or even later, may, not unfrequently, be coasted along, with little or no obstruction, in Sep- tember or October, and sometimes in August, from the head of Baffin Bay, down to the southward of l^abrador, approaching the 50th parallel, or along tlie whole extent of the previous encumbrance ! In consequence of this annual destruction of ice, tlie ice of Baffin Bay is found to be far lighter, for the most part, than that of the Greenland Sea,- the floes in Baffin Bay being, ordinarily, liardl) ji fourth-part the thickness of those occupying the seas westward of Spitzbergen, and, very prevalently, indeed, of even a lower proportion. For the floes, coming down from the northward and eastward, k THE PASSAGE OF THE MIDDLE ICE. M) betwixt Spitzbergon and tlie east coast of Green- land, are not unfrequently, in single sheets of solid transparent ice, from twenty to thirty, or even approaching forty feet in thickness. All persons who have frequented the Greenland whale-fishery must have met with, occasionally, large sheets and floes presenting a wall of ice, and rising three, four, if not five feet, in solid substance, above the surface of the water in which the ice was afloat. Now, from experiments which I • rmerly made on the specific gravity and flotation of ice (described in vol. i. of the Account of the Arctic Regions, page 233, and in page (82) of the Appendix), I found, that the proportion floating above to that helow the surface, was, m fresh-water^ at a freezing temperature, as 1 to 11*5, and in sea-water^ as 1 to 8-2; that is, for one part above the surface of the sea, when near a freezing temperature, there would be, in a square or evenly formed mass, above eight parts below.* The sheet-ice of Baffin Bay — speaking in contra- distinction to the massive or lumpy ice of bergs — docs not usually, unless it be overlaid, exceed, I believe, five or six feet in thickness ; floes of eight or ten feet thick, which are sometimes met with, being of but rare occurrence, whilst hay-floes, of the thickness of only a few inches, occur in all parts of the middle-ice, occupying, more or less, ' A cubic inch of compact ice, temperature 30", I found to weij^h 231'5 grains; and a cubic inch of Greenland sea-water at a freezing temperature, or 28" (specific gravity of tlie water, taken at temperature 00", being 1*0204) was found to weigli 2,') 9 •58 grains. „ i^' ■I ■ i Ik } . I 60 THE FRAiNKLIN EXrEDlTlON. the corners and interstices luniil the heavier masses. Wo here speak of the nortliern ice, as it is met with ill the spring and early part of the summer. Tiie land-ice — that is the ice immediately attached to the coast, and resting in the position in which it has had its winter formation — varies considerably in thickness according to the locality in which it is generated,— being thickest in the most sheltered situations and in the shallowest water. Measured on one occasion in Melville Bay, on the 24th of June, — the land-ice, at the distance of tliirty or forty miles from the shore, was found to be three feet five inches in thickness, where single and undisturbed. The same general sheet of ice, how- ever, was found, but three weeks later, to be reduced by the summer heat to about two feet. At the region in Davis Strait, called the south- west by the whale fishers, comprising the ices below the 65th or 66th parallel, as also in the interior of the middle-ice, occasionally, for several degrees northward, the diift or packed ice is often heavy — approximating the character of that of ordinary occui'rence in the south-western portions of the Greenland Seas. But within Baffin Bay, generally, these lighter perennial ices are mostly met with. The separate masses do not so frequently extend into the vast, and, apparently, interminable surface of ^ fields^' as in the Greenland Sea, being com- prised, as to single sheets, mainly of moderate sized floes. Very large sheets, indeed, are liable to be broken up in their drift down to the south- ward, by their not unfrequent contact with the I'S THE PASSAGE OF THE MIDDLE ICE. 01 icebergs which are clotted almost all over, though more numerous in positions of shallow water. Collision with bergs, and more especially with grounded bergs, produces upon the drifting floes a strange and tremendous work of disruption or destruction. Their edges frequently bear witness of the unequal contest of strength in which they have been engaged; whilst the force with which they have been compressed by wind or current against the permanent shore, or equally unyielding grounded icebergs, often runs sheet over sheet, or piles edge upon edge, till the comparatively light floe assumes, in portions of the surface, the heavi- ness characteristic of Greenland ice, or, in the ridges formed on the margins of compression, the massiveness of miniature bergs. Our national enterprise in the whale-fishery of recent years, having been mauily carried on in the sea beyond, or westward of the middle-ice of Baffin Bay,— that barrier has become as familiar to our fishermen, as to its character and varieties, as lone ago was the ice-barrier, on the south-west of Spitz- bergen, to the whale-fishers of Greenland. With the experience, by our whalers, now extending through a period of about thirty years, — I have taken some pains to make myself acquainted, and, with the results of my enquiries, the reader is here- in presented.* The passage of the middle-ice is usually accom- • The sources from whence these results were drawn are fully specified in connection with an article in the Appendix. ■r r I jJ ,11 r i \f H -r K m ,1! ()2 I'm; ruANKMN iai'iidition. plishcd, though at no inconsiderable risk to tlio sliips engaging in that adventur(\ by rounding the northern part of the barrier, after the main body has become d(»tached and considerably r(»moved from the top of the Bay. This was, in fact, the course originally pursued with so much success, by the adventurous and enterprising W. Baffin, when, in the year 1616, he discovered this Bay, and cir- cumnavigated it through its entire extent. In this enterprise of passing the icy-barrier by the north, the coast of Greenland is kept aboard until the main body is doubled, or some narrow isthmus of it may be intersected in a high parallel, — usually about the latitude of 76°. But a passage has occasionally been made, in some lower parallels — such as the latitude of 70" to 74°, — where the width of the barrier is about the greatest, and the practicability of passing it, until late in the season, is ordinarily very questionable. And, sometimes, the passage has been made by entering a parallel corresponding with, or even to the southward of Cape Walsingham (a position in about G6^ 30' N., constituting the narrowest part of Davis Strait), and then persevering northward, if possible, along the western side of Baffin Bay, betwixt the middle- ice and the land. Towards the north-about passage, the navigation, us we have said, is open to a considerable extent along the Greenland shore, forming the eastern boundary of the Bay, in the early spring. In the (>arly part of the season an interruption is not uiifrequently met with near llolsteinborg, w]u>r(\ li ■ :• I I riiv. i'assa(;e of tuf, middlf k i;. (>:} liic strait being the narrowest, tlie descendinj;- body of northern ice necessarily tends to produce a block. Subsequent interruptions, after this position is [)assed, are liable to be met with, where project- uVfi; headlands, clusters of islands, or ranges of grounded icebergs encroach on the usual direction of drift of the eastern margin of ice. Thus, inter- ruptions are commonly met with at, or immediately b(7ond. Disco Island, Hare Island, Women Islands, Baffin Islands, the Devil's Thumb or Point, as well as in the rounding of Melville Bay, and especially, and lastly, in getting sufficiently up towards ('ape York, so as to be beyond the ordinary extension of the main pack of the icy barrier. The progress thus made, as to its latter and more difficult portions, is in the channels of water — from time to time produced by the wind and other circumstances acting favourably, — betwixt the fixed land-ice or land-floes, and the jioating body consti- tuting the middle-ice. The land-ice, in particular l)ositions, may extend, off shore, a distance of twenty or thirty, or even fifty miles. As the fixedness of its exterior edge shows the effect of the least slack- ing or receding of the main-ice — the retention of its continuity with the land, where the princi])al sto|)])ages occur, is, ordinarily, deemed essential for II rapid or successful progress northward. The north-easterly winds, which most commonly j)revail in the early spring, and continue, as in the (ireenland Seas, to be the prevailing winds during April and May —net, of course, fjivourably towards the opening of the eastern navigation ; though it h "( ) I ', I ,j i5. G4 IHl, lUANKLIN EXI'EUmoN. rarely liJippcns that any sliip niakos its way beyond tlie middle-icr, northward, before the middle of June. A passage, ind(HMl, accomplished at any time in June, is dcvnied an (*arly one. AVithin the jx^'iod from 1H17 to 1849 inclusive, (lacking only 1820, 22, 24, 2(), 41 and 42), in which I have records of the course taken by the leading ships employed in the fishery, or otherwise, — I find that, in twenty-three out of the twenty-seven years, the northern passage was effected by some vessel, and not unfrequently by the whole fleet of whalers. The earliest passages into the western-water of which I have records, were, as to the leading ship of the year, effected by the St. Andrew, Captain Dring, of Aberdeen, June 12th, 1849; by the Neptune, Penny, of Aberdeen, June 13th, 1838; by the Bon-accord, Lee, the Abram, Jackson, etc., June 21st, 1833; and by the Abram, Coultray, June 22nd, 1845. Various other ships, on most occasions, passed the barrier, at or near about the same time ; the ship of Captain Parker was very early through on an occasion in which my records fail ; and the main fleet in 1834 passed across by the 28th of June. The first ship ever known to have passed this barrier, north-westward, since the time of Baffin, was the Larkins, of Leith, in 1817; she was followed by the Elizabeth, of Aberdeen. The latest period to which I find the leading whaler having persevered, by this course, to a successful issue, was early in August. The average period, as taken from my list of twenty- three years, in which the first ships sue- \\ III, I IIIK PASNACiK OI Tin: MFDDI.i: I( I,. <)5 ceodcd in passing the banicr by thr Mt'lvillo Bay routes is July 13tli. Baffin, it is woitliy of remark, was, notwithstanding tho (»ntirc nown(^ss of the adventure, and t\w comparative insignificance of his little vessel, in advance of th(^ period at whi(;h the navigation is now ordinarily effected, under all the advantages of familiarity with these regions and strong and efiective ships! For the gallant little ' Dis- covery,' as his vessel of fifty-five tons was named, came "into an open sea," in latitude 75" 40' N., — very near to the identical parallel in which the passage across is now usually e^Tected, — on the 1st of July, or almost a fortniglit before the average passage of the earliest ships of the present * lay ! By the middle-parallel (latitude 70" to 74") 'ao passage through the wide body of the f^ ^-barrier, westward, is not very often accomplished v pur- sued. In the disastrous year of 1830, to which we refer further on, four ships took a more westerly course than usual, and succeeded in making that passage ; and, on some other occasions, the transit of the middle-parallel appears to have been made. But, unless under peculiarly favourable circumstances, such as of strong and prevalent winds from the south-eastward, tending to reL x the usual central compactness, the attempt is atteiided with consider- able risk, at least with the whalers, of the loss of the fishery by a too-lengthoned detention in the ice. Even when ships have attempted to cross too low down in Melville Bay, though close upon the posi- tion for doubling the pack by the north, they some- ir ,1 :■;•■ ! 1 i: ■ ^i 9 (Hi THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. times, by getting beset and being carried away with the ice, have missed the passage altogether. The Griper and Hecla, discovery ships, in the expedition under Lieut. Parry, in the year 1819, were remarkably successful in penetrating the mid- dle-ice in latitude 73°,— reaching the western water, by a route and progress then unexampled, on th(^ '28th of July. But in attempting the like passag<> with the Fury and Hecla, when the season ha])- pened to be severe and unfavourable, in 1824, and taking the ice, July 18th, hi latitude 71" 2',-- Captain Parry was detained until the 8th of Sep- tember, — a period of enormous labour extending to nearly eight weeks, before he could attahi tlic western water. In this case, a northward direction was obliged to be pursued, after entering the ice. so that the ships had ascended to the latitude of 7-1" 7', before the completion of the transit. By the most southern route, however, that is within and below the 7()th parallel of latitude, \ery early passages across have been effected, and, some of those adventuring upon this course, have occasionally sue ceeded, by a tolerably easy progress, in getting northward afterwards, betAvixt the middle- ice, and the fixed land-ice on th(> western sliorc^ oi" Davis Strait. Thus, amongst other instances of which I liave obtained records, it appears, that in 1889, several ships crossed over in the 7()th parallel, partly doubling the main body of the middle-ice to tlie soutliward, and then succ(hmI(mI in getting to tlic I I li- THE PASSA(iK OF THE MIDDLE ICE. () < of northward. Tlie Ellison, Lee, on that occasion, reached the western water on the 21st of July; but the principal part of the fleet, I believe, were much later. In 18-i4, the Bon-accord, Lee, got through the ice in latitude 67", on the 16th of June, and succeeded (a rare occurrence) in reaching Pond Bay, within five days afterwards! In 1846, the Prince of Wales, Thomas Lee, crossed again in latitude ()7", and got through on the 16th of July. Though this direction of transit is annually prac- ticable during some part of the summer or autumn, because of the tendency of the barriei to separate > or divide across within this southward region, and though it has in several instances been successfully pursued up to the whale-fishing stations about Pond Bay and beyond; yet it is by no means a safe course to the north-western fishery. A simple in- spection of the position of Baffin Bay, in the Map, will show that the luest land advances to the south- eastward, all the way, in its general trending, from Pond Bay to Cape Walsingham, and that Baffin Bay gradually narrows down to the latter position. TIence, not only does the ordinary southerly drift of the ice tend to bring the middle-ice heavily against the coast to the westward, but the contraction of the space, as before alluded to, renders the clearing of an early channel by the western shore extremity uncertain. For a considerable number of years — now about thirty or more — the whale-fishery, formerly carricnl on in Davis Strait, has, in considerable degree, been transferred to the west(M'n side of Baffin Bav. Tiiui- ■J I t ■t i. K I ■I V 11. r I'I'i 1 1 ()8 THE FRANKLIN EXrEDITIOX, caster Sound, and even to regions beyond. Hence not only is Lancaster Sound a position prevalently aimed at by the whalers, but Regent Inlet, to a considerable extent downward by the eastern side of it, is frequently visited. Whales, in extraordi- nary abundance have been found in these regions, and a new encouragement every now and then has been given to the continuance of this enterprise. Checked, however, by the risks and expenses of a lengthened voyage, and the not unfrequent failures — the whale-fishery has so declined, as to have be- come, as a national commerce and adventure, almost insignificant. In the more favourable years, however, the op- portunities for success, which were always well improved, were extraordinary. I take, at a venture, an instance or two from my notes. The Isabella, Humphreys, in the summer of 1832, captured forty- two whales, yielding 280 tons of oil ; — twenty-seven were taken in Pond Bay and a little to the north- ward, and fifteen in, or near to, Admiralty Inlet, in Lancaster Sound. Hundreds of whales were to be seen at once : quite a marvellous sight ! The crew of the Isabella killed fourteen at one ' fall ' — that is during one period of uninterrupted chase ! The ice was very compact above this position, forming so close a barrier, at the time, that the ' fish ' seem to have been stopped in their progress westward. In the followiL^' year, 1833, the same ship ad- vanced westward, at difi"erent times in July and August, within sight of Leopold Island, and on the 28tli of August picked up Captain Ross witli his iij: ; 'i THE PASSAGE OF THE MIDDLE ICE. 69 long imperilled crew, near Navy Board Inlet. Meanwhile another ship, the , Parker, cap- tured twenty-eig>it whales, and lost fifteen others, betwixt Cape Y ivk and Cape Kater, in Regent In- let. On their arrival in Regent Inlet on the 8th and up to the 15th of July, the sea was literally swarming with life ! Of the larger kinds of Arctic animals, the numbers seen were such, as to have excited unmixed amazement. Whales, narwals, walruses, seals, bears, etc. (but no ' tinners,* or sword-fish); whilst birds innumerable, of various species, almost covered the surface of the water ! if In adventures of this kind, — arduously, and some- times almost desperately, pressing forward towards the desired fishing-stations of the north-west, and persevering in the fishery, as many of the whalers have done, until the middle of October, or even later, — great risks are necessarily run, and very much loss in shipping, has, in consequence, ensued. In any case, an early and persevering endeavour to make the western passage by Melville Bay, is attended with more or less risk. Here the Isabella, in the first enterprise in our modern explorations by Baffin Bay, got a heavy nip, such, as it was assumed, must have crushed a common whaler to atoms ! To one most disastrous instance, however, of peril and loss in the attempt to pass north-westward by Melville Bay — that of the year 1830, — I am tempted to refer more particularly, because of the illustration F k . f M 1.1 : ,1' , ' r f i¥l. Hi ■ I' 1 1 , 70 THE FRANKLIN EXPKDITION. it affords of the power of moving bodies of ice, as well as because of the interest naturally pertaining to a circumstance so strangely destructive. Not very many lives, happily, were lost on the calamitous occasion ; but no less than a third part of the whole whale-fishing fleet were wrecked within the same general region, w^hilst attempting, by a similar course, to double the middle-ice bv the north. An abstract of the journal of one of the more favoured adventurers amid tliis extraordinary cala- mity, may, perhaps, be of more interest and value, than any attempt, w^ith defective materials, t give a general record of the eventful occasion. The Cumbrian, Captain ]\[unr()(\ — whose original log-book has supplied tlie principal riaterials for this abstract — sailed from PIull so early as to reacli the ice, at the ' south-west,' near the beginning of April. From this position, latitude 62" oO' N., longitude 57" 25' W., they took the ice along, as they were able, generally beating to windward, up to May the 1st, when they were near to Holstein- borg, where the navigable channel, betwixt the ic(> and the land, became first a little embarrassed. Persevering to the northward along sliore, meet- ing with occasional bars of ice, tliey reached a com- plete stoppage, nortliward, on the 31st of ^fay near Baflin Islands. With but few exceptions, the wind was from the north-eastward during the whole of the months of April and May. In the liability to rapid changes in the position and compactness of the ice, in this region, they were not altog(^thei' disappointed. ()])enini>:s occa- I i 4 ! THE PASSAGE OF THE MIDDLE HE. 71 sionally took place, iiiul now and then a iavourin<; wind occurred, so that, taking advantage of every opportunity for making progress, the Cumbrian had advanced, by the 10th of June, as far as the southern part of Melville Bay, — being in latitude 75" 40', longitude 62° 10'. Here, when they had just been anticipating a safe and early passage round the ice, they were again stopped. A fleet of forty sail of whahn's were then in sight, some making th(4r way to the westward, others retiring among the loose floes to the southward, the others, a considerable |)roportion, remaining by the land-ice, — ex]ierience liaving shown, that however adventurous and danger- ous it might be to pursue a course of this kind over against the western land, on this eastern side, it was the most promising course to stick to the land, rather than to trust to ]:)rogress in tlie loose and moveable body of the middle-ice. They here remained up to the 22nd of June, and then, under variable light winds producing occasional openings, were enabled to advance some twenty miles ^o the w(stward along the land ic(\ On the 24th, tlie ice began to close, and that jiretty quickly. Aware of the risk of the position, how- ever, in the e\'ent of the western body of ice coming down heavily upon them. Captain Munroe immediat(4y commenc(Ml operations for sawing a dock into the land-ice, — no difficult undertaking luM'e, where the ice, wIkmi not doubled, was only three and a lialf feet in tliiekness. After six hours of active labour, a canal of 200 fe(^t in IcMigth was eom])let(Hl. In this and subsequent undertakings i \ 1/ '- rr 4 ■fi r ( ■ i |.: 72 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. of a like kind, the crew of the Hanseatt of Bremen, who were put under the orders of Captain ^lunroe, assisted, on coiidition of their ship, which was not provided with ice-saws, being pennittcd to parti- cipate in the dock that was formed. This arrange- ment, indeed, in its result, proved of great service to all ; as one sliip's company could relieve the other, in the laborious task, so as, when needful, to keep the saws continually in operation. On the 25th, a storm of no ordinary character was evidently brewing to the southward and west- ward. The sky, in that quarter, became dark almost to blackness. The barometer had fallen greatly. The ice was still pressing moderately on. But, meanwhile, the two ships were opportunely docked, — a strong piece of ice being placed across the outlet as an additional defence. A section of the general fleet, contiguous to the Cumbrian, — being eight sail altogether, — ^had adopted a similar course, and each one, to different measures in extent, had assumed the hoped-for security of a dock. In the afternoon of this day — the actual com- mencement of the eventful period — the storm came on from the south-westward ,.s anticipated. The effect was immediately felt in its terrific results. The body of ice, seaward, came on amain. Floes now overrun floes ; or where two equal edges met, they were mutually piled up in huge ridges. The power of the crush soon obliterated the docks that were the least deep or the most exposed. Signals of distress waved in the storm in all directions ; but the domands of solf-presorvatiou allowed no man to :ii: I '» I ;t I THE PASSAGE 01- THE MIDDLE HE. 73 help his neighbour. Tlie first ships of the little group wliich ' suffered,' were the Princess of Wales and the Letitia ; the ice ran through their broad- sides ! At the same time, others among them, were forced into alarming positions, — some thrown upon their ' beam-ends,' some much raised by the pressure. The intermediate ice, especially that immediately within the ships, in relation to the shore, was ani- mate with human beings, — about 300 men, appear- ing scattered abroad in a state of distressful excite- ment, engaged for the most part in carrying off into a position of safety on the yet unbroken ice, their chests and hammocks or beds, and other personal possessions, constituting, as to the greater part, ' their little all.' Though the operation of sawing, with a view to the deepening of the dock of the Cumbrian and her consort, was, meanwhile, being energetically carried on by 100 men, these, too, working for their pro- perty and wages, and ][X)ssibly for their lives, — the protecting ice broke away up to the very bows of the Cumbrian before the first great ' run ' ceased. The boisterous wind, from seaward, continuing during the night, the off-ice renewed its destructive progress early in the morning of the 2()th. At 6 A.M., the Resolution, of Peterhead, then lying about a mile and a half distant from the Cumbrian, was wrecked ; — the ice went through her ' counter' abaft, and, as the ship filled, turned her over upon the ffoe! The Commerce, a brig, was, about the same time, lifted quite on the ice on her broad- side, and had her stern-post greatly twisted. This ■X Pl r-' t n li^' rhe, being the last of this particular section, except those with the Cumbrian. Aided now with an accession of men from the additional wrecks, the position of the Cumbrian and her associates, which had become alarmingly threatened, was improved by the extension of their canal inward ; — the men, in general, not knowing that any other refuge might be left, working, as for their lives. Their efforts proved effective until towards midnight, when a new and augmented pressure came upon the land-ice from without, thoroughly breaking up this last refuge, to which an amount of some 400 men had trusted for their preservation through the medium of the residue of ships. The press now fell so heavily on the two outside vessels, that the exposed broadside of each partially gave way. But, the good hand of Provi- dence being upon them, the three ships — the Cum- brian with little or no damage — ultimately escaped. The pressure after continuing in that direction about two hours, then ceased. By means of the whole body of men engaged in the common object of self-preservation, — the ships, after enormous labour in cutting through the broken i < % !li I u> '•\ i 'I 1 •JUL PASSAGE OF THE MIDDLE RE. 77 ice into the luud-Hoe, were again placed in apparent security. Provisions, too, were collected, as far as practicable, from the various wrecks, and carried still further along the land-ice as a depot, in the event of idtimate disaster to the remaining ships. The residue of this interesting story can h^re only be conveniently sketched. No renewal of pressure, after that described, took i)lace. I'he weather becoming fine, and the position of the ships more and more hopc^ful, the damages of the Hanseatt and the Commerce were so far repaired, as to render them sea-worthy, and all three were again securely docked in the ice. The shipwrecked men distributed themselves, as to the main body of them, among more remote sections of the fleet by travelling over the ice. The remnant left, only about thirty, consisted chiefly of the wx^ak or the timid. After a depressing detention here until the 1st of September, they observed a southern section of the fleet make sail, and pass out of sight. Under better hopes for themselves, the crews of the Cum- brian and associates began to replace the stores on board their respective ships. On the -Ith, a swell w^as perceived coming in from the S.W. The next day they began to move by warping through the somewhat slackened ice. On the 6th, the three ships were under sail, winding their way through the devious openings, or forcing an occasional passage by 'boring;' and on the 7th, making effective progress, they were privileged to accomplish their escape into cleai' water ! The general rsult of this sad catastrophe — lui- \< t f ' i\ 78 IMi; rUANKl-IN LXI'LUITIDN. \ '■ ' i> n { ■i« I :■ exum])l('d even in the ailvcntuious scrvicf" of the wluil('-fisli(>iy — was the loss of twcnt) .i oh, uiur- t('(Mi Hritish and one Foreign, in tlu iK'if.^ of Melville Bay, and one more in a different rejj^io!^ ; besides abont twenty otliers, more or less dama«,'ed. The fishery, too, proved a gi'neral failure: only about I third j)art of the fleet, 1 believe, succeeded in obtaining any success. The loss of life, on this sad occasion of hardship and peril, was not very great. The rum-cask, as it is wont wIkmi surr(>ptitiously resorted to in mari- time calamities, did its usual disservice, — cheering those, ind(>ed, who ventured on its temporary stimulus for a short time, but ultimately reacting on the incidentally acciidretl energy with a more than corresponding dei)ression. The first to suffer by ex])osiue and hardship were generally these self-indulgeut, and those who perished in travelling across the ice from the section of ships to which our luirrative specially rht be greatly fnrthered by the preliminary establisli- ment of posts on the ice or ])roximate shores, as depots of provisions, and as places for resting on the line of direction proposed to be pnrsned. In an ordinarily favourable summer, the scout ship designed for this service, would be able ])ro- l)ably to penetrate through Barrow Strait coir ' r- ably beyond Cape "Walker. Having then pursued a western and south-western direction, so far as tlie ice might permit, until fairly arrested for the winter, such vessel would constitute^ a starting point for ire- travelling far beyond the reach, on plans hith(Mto adopted, of the ultimate ex])loration, by setting out from Port Leo[)old. From the jiosition tlius attained, wlien the season for travelling miglit be deenuvl sufficiently ]n'oxi- mate, let provisions, with extra clothing and tcnits, be sent forward in tlie lin(^ of S(>arch determined upon, for a four oi' five days' distance — say fifty to seventy miles. Instead of a mere mound of snow% as a mark, a ])ole couhl ')e erected as a guide subse- quently to the place. Poles made of reeds or bam- boo might be tlie liglitest for carriage, which, being st(>adied by guys or shrouds, would easily sustain a flag, .1 ball, or, what would be still better, a cvlin- ^i i)N AIDS TO Fl RTIIEKANCt OF RESKAH( 11. h:\ der of red or blue calico, stretched by cane hoops, whicli would pack in as small a compass almost as a flag, and be b(^tter seen in calm weather. From this first post, a second preliminary party could be pushed forward to another correspond in<^- distance, depositinfif there also botli tents, provisions, and clothinfi^, tog(>ther with the li<4hter sledfj^es and other apparatus of the principal travelling ])arty. From hence, assumed to be an advanced position of 100 to loO miles, the travelling pnrty might still be accompanied, if found advisable, by a fatigue party for some days beyond, so as to enable the men designed for distant service to commence more fresh than when left to their unaid(Ml efforts and resources. Certain advantages, 1 conceive, woidd be derived from a measure of this kind, for the establishment of at least one prelinnn iry post, over the ])lan of setting out witli fatigue parties and th(^ whole ex- pedition at once. As to such advantages, may be noted, — the pioneering of the track for the avoid- ance of unnecessary detours ; t]w establishment of a good post in anticipation of the best of the season for travelling ; the practising of the men, with th(» view of the best selection for the distant service, etc. To me it appears, that, on some plan of this kind, the party for the distant scM'vice, rcvsting at the farthest post for a day or two, might set out from their advanced position comparatively quit(* fresh. Confident, too, of their having such advanccnl post to fall back uj)on — with fresli r(\sources in juo- visions, tents, and clotliing — the mm woidd travel 'I ' i 'I H4 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. k ■A I II l\ with more elasticity of spirit, and, by consequence, would be able to accomplish, should circumstances otherwise prove favourable, a much greater distance. In an arduous and cxhaustinp^ undertaking of this nature, it would be very important, both from religious and physical considerations, that strict re- gard should be hau to the rest of the Sabbath. In an undertaking where men go, as it were, w\t\\ their lives in their hands, the due observance of the liOrd's-day, religiously considered, would, in an especial manner, be found productive of a holy con- fidence in that gracious Being with whom are the issues of life ; whilst physically considered, there coTild be no doubt of a beneficial influence being dcnived from the observance of an institution mani- festly adapted to a general law in the constitution of man, and, indeed, more extensively of nature, — such observance being calcidated at once to restore the exhaustion of the over-worked travellers, and, by the Divine blessing, to further the enterprise in which they were engaged. If, as we have supposed, a travelling party, effi- ciently provided and arranged, should commence^ their journey from a position, which we conceive to be ordinarily attainable^ far advanc 'd in the direc- tion of Melville Island — say 100 ^o 150 miles to the westward or south-westward of Cape Walker, — their ultimate research, if the character and course of the ice were favourable, might extend 300 to 400 miles further, which would b(» fully one-half of the interval betwixt Port Leopold and Point Barrow. « ,) * * f ON AIDS TO FURTHERANCE OF RESEARCH. Ho In assuming such an advanced position as being ordinarily attainable, when the recent experience of 8ir James Ross might seem to indicate otherwise, it may here be sufficient to refer back to our second Chapter (pp. 28 — 25), merely adding, that even in the two summers occupied in the recent voyage, there is no proof against the supposition that the navigation of a more western longitude was possibly open, had the shij)? been in a position to avail themselves of it. Hence, we have assumed, that the vessel designed to take post at or near Melville Island, might, hkewise, be able to accomplish this extent of navigation. If so, the opportunity would be afforded, by means similar to those already suggested, of pushing researches by ice-travelling parties down to Banks' Land, tracing the coast Avestward, and, i)erhaps, eastward, besides sending a small party, during the season for such researches, to explore tlie sea round the western part of IMelville Island towards the north, or rounding, if practicable, the Parry Islands towards the east. In all this contemplated progress by ice-travelling, which, under ^ndinarily favourable circumstances of season and ice, we deem to hv reasonably i)racti- cabu , we have relied solelj on ihe unaided efforts of the 7ncn employed in the enterprise. But we are )('t, I am well persuaded, but beginning to learn wliat may be done under other arrangements by this mode of progress. My own conviction of the applicability of it for research in ice-covered seas has long been .such, as to have c^licited the ]»ro- r.. <■ r, , 1 I S(i iHE lUANKLlN IvM'LDI riO.N [)()siti()ii of the possibility of reach iiifij the Pole by do f^^"' or moans of sledge-boats drawn by reindcun* even by mannal force, which was pnblished in the second volnme of the " Memoirs of the Wcrnerian Society of Edinburgh," from a j)aper read to tliat Society in the year 1815. And althongh the attempt made under the orders of our Government some twelve years afterwards failed ; yet the failure, being occasioned by circumstances which in the plan originally proposed would have been avoided, Y)rovcd nothing against the practicability of the scheme, as, indeed, the gallant officer who commanded the cx- pc^dition has, in a letter published ir: Sir John Bar- row's abstract of recent voyages, himself admitted. * But there arc other modes of focilitatin,<'; a pro- gress in transglacial journeys of, perhaps, easier applicability than in tlie use of reindeer or even dogs. One of the simplest which has struck my mind, — from the ciicumstancc of having once secMi the surprising efficacy of the agency in drawing a light carriage — is by the use of kites. In the in- stance referrc^d to, the kite was guided in the direc- I 1 J ■ * As aicl( (I in the progress by leiiulecr or dogs, we find, as fin- as the records collected can enable one to judge, that the most rapid ?*iid considerable transgl; cial journeys, yet accomplished, havp been made by the Russians. Instances of such journeys are givcii in "The Account of the Arctic Regions," vol. i. c. 1, s. 4 ; ;/ad also in the Edinburgh New Philosophical .Journal, for 182H, vol. V. pp. 22 — 42 in " Remarks on the probability of reaching th»j North Pole . ir < rdor to the enquiry of how far the expe- dition under Capt. Parry afttct: (he probability of the enterprise." — Another art.icu in the sanu ;. iirnal, vol. xx. (for \H'>i5 — (J) pj). 93 — 100, '* On circumstancc^'i connected with the original suj/f/estion of the Modern Arctic Expeditions," will be fotiiid to have very close relation to the introductory portion of the present publication, 1 ,' i ft ON MDS TO FlRTHKHANii; nV in:sK\|{(ll. S, tion of i\\o road — being ()l)li([iie to tliat of the wind -bv lateral t)y lateral (/ui/s\ by moans ot whieh a range of (linv^tion could b<» commanded of, I think, about teu or twelve points of tlu; compass. Tlie c.peii- m(Mit was made on the Downs at (^lifton, when, happening to be present, I was allowed to take my seat along with the originator of the scheme anrl another person, during a very ra])id transit of the carriage thus drawn along, over a limited extent of road adopted for the trial ; and althor.gh no genc^id use of this mode of locomotion could advantageously b(^ made, wherc^ the several contingencies of favour- able wind, a breeze blowing freshly, but not vio- lently, and a road without undue turnings, must be always requisite, yet it does seem that where the time and circumstances of the outsetting of a shnlge party could be selected, an im])ortant furtherance might be yielded to the progress over favourable ice at the commencement, as well as during any subs(». (juent period in which tlu; rc^quisite circumstanc(vs. as to the wind and quality of the ic(\ sliould prevail. Among the variety of schemes and contrivanc(^s which hav(^ been brought before the public, with the view of furthering Arctic discovery, and of pro- moting research after ovu' missing adventurers, ther<' is one possessing decided capabilities which it might not be well to pass over without notic(\ — I refer to the us(» of balloons. Balloons liave long been contemplated as cal- culated for advantageous employment, (as indeed actual experiment has justified), for the purpose of observation froni an elevated position, in wait!U(^ ; ,h > r t i »• ^l ^i: li ■' I'll' i. 1 - » tk H h m THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. whilst a like rmploymcnt of balloons has been sug- gested in aid of the means hitherto employed for Arctic researches. As a mode of attaining an elevated site for obser- vation — whether for looking out for the anxiously- sought expedition under Sir Jolni Franklin, or for tlie more remote inspection of the nature of the ices and lands in the direction contemplated for travelling ])arties, or parties otherwise engaged in researches, the balloon, it is obvious, might be very advantageously made use of. With a perfectly calm and clear atmos]ihere, a heiglit of perhaps half a mile, or more, might be ascended with a small balloon, attached by a light rope, or lead line, to the ship ; whilst a practised aeronaut, proA ided with sledge, provisions, and tent, might ascend, when the air was pretty stagnant, very much higher — trusting to the resources carried along with him, for his return, within a limited distance, to the ship. In respect to the nature and extent of vitnv com- manded in aeronautics adventure, considerable mis- take seems to prevail, which it may not be unuseful to notice. It had been assumed by a document which recently appeared in some of the public journals, that an elevation of two miles would command a panoramic view of at least 1200 miles — an extent of vision, however, unless singularly aided by a generally elevated region of country beyond the ordinary horizon, greatly overrated. The ordinary horizon — assuming a surface of ocean, or ice-covered sva, or a country on which tlie posi- tion ascended from should be an average one as to ? i ON AIDS TO FX'RTIIERANCE OF RESEARCH. 89 <'lcvntion — would be visible (not ullowin'i; for re- fraction), about eighty-three or eiglity-four mik's from the elevation of one statute mile, or about 118 statute miles, equal to a panorama of about 740 miles, from the elevation of two miles. Another prevalent mistake, too, is, tliat such a body as one of the discovery sliips woidd necessarily be discernible, if witliin view, from such a command- ing position. My own impression is, guided by some consideration of the angidar measure ordinarily visible, that such a ship, even with all sails set, woidd not be discernible by the naked eye (that is, in ordinary states of the atmosphere as to refrac- tion) above forty miles off, and a far less distance if lying beset with sails furled. The telescope, indeed, could reveal the otherwise invisible object to the very extent of the visible horizon, or some- what beyond, but the difficidty would be to catch an object so small within so vast an area of vision. Nevertheless, great advantage might result, thougli not to the degree popidarly assumed, from balloon obser>ation, wliilst such means of observation, I appreliend, are abiuidantly practicable. As the tilling of a balloon with liydrogen gas would not be a matter of great difficulty, where the length of time occupied by the process might not be of importance ; and as a balloon so inflated would have a greater ascending power than one filled with the ordinary gas for burning, — it would be quite possible, I conceive, and, it may be added, sufficiently practicable, to set forth a balloon of sueli capabilities, from an advanced vessel in our :>^. 1 ■ , r' ■■h .1 I I !)() TIIK rUVNKLlN KXI'KOITION. proposed rxpcdition, as to cany u party of three jnen, with provisions, sledge, tent, and apparatus, tor a journey of a month or more. Were such a medium of transit ado[)ted, and a favourable occa- sion as to the direction and force of the wind hapi)ily obtained, the outward journey, or the principal part of it, niiju^ht be accomplished without fatif^ue, so that the little party would start quite fresli in strength and resources on their return to the ship. In regard to the em])loyment of so small a party, it may be submitted that, it has yet to be deter- mined, w^hether very small [)arties would not be almost as safe as large ones ; whilst no doubt coidd exist as to their economy in means and resources, and tlie ad\antage they woidd afford of researclies being made at the same time on several lines of direction. 'i'hen^ is another object connected with such re- stnuches as we have been considering, of a viMy im[)()rtant ui'lure, in wliich balloons might certainly have very advantageous employment, — \iz., as t/i(%sscH ^;. V ^ m Photographic Sciences Corporation >v :<\^ \\ ^9) V 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ( 92 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. h:n 1 Ml well adapted. For a balloon completely filled up with gas, and so secured against its escape that its density could not materially change, could only continue to ascend, it is obvious, until the weight of the air displaced by its mass, should cease to be greater than the weight of the balloon, with its attachments and gaseous contents. Hence, if the free-ascending power were but small, its upward course would be soon arrested by the gradually diminishing density of the atmosphere, and then, on reaching the point of equilibrium, the balloon must pursue only a horizontal flight. Knowing, there- fore, as we very well do, the ratio of diminution of density in the atmosphere by ascending ; and being aware, to begin with, of the solid displacement of air by the mass of the balloon when filled, we could so adjust \hefree ascending power, by weighting the buoyant vessel, as to cause it to travel at any deter- minate altitude we might desire. Thus provided with the elements of probable direction and progress — elements, indeed, which might vary, somewhat, in the difierent regions that might be traversed, but not materially so, perhaps, within a few hundreds of miles, — the fall of the balloon might be effected at any required distance, reck6ned in time, by the connecting of a small time-piece (such as that of the common alarum) with a sufficiently-weighted valve at the top, which would secure the release of the valve and the escape of the gas at any particular interval.* * The use of slow-match, the combustion of which may be tolerably well estimated, has, elsewhere, beeu suggested for the ON AIDS TO FURTHERANCE OF RESEARCH. 93 Had our anxiously-sought adventurers been pro- vided with apparatus of this kind, it is hardly probable but that some message directly from them would have reached us year by year, and so, not only might any unnecessary anxiety have been pre- vented, but the direction in which relief might have been afforded clearly and certainly pointed out. The foregoing considerations, as to measures for searching after our missing countrymen in an eastern direction by Baffin Bay, will of course apply — so far as they relate to ice-travelling and the employment of balloons, or other aids for obser- vation and research — to the furtherance of the like objects from any other quarters. But whilst they may apply generally, they might be carried out perhaps, in the present case, with the greatest effec- tiveness by an expedition by Baffin Bay, where the time for preparation, if promptly set about, is yet sufficient. Such are the considerations respecting Arctic research, and practical measures for the discovery and relief of our absent adventurers with the Franklin Expedition, — which, amid the numerous plans already set forth by others, I venture now, with much diffidence, to submit to the public. attainment of this object, which has the recommendation at least of being unexpensive. But watch-work machinery, sufficient for the purpose, could be had at a cost, I believe, of a few shillings for each apparatus. #, 1 ! J fi. i!;i- hi, PI i 1 ' 'if 94 THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. U ii And it may not, I hope, be presumptuous to say, that, were the various researches, contemplated by the foregoing plan, fairly carried out, some satis- factory or conclusive results might be reasonably and confidently expected. For it is hardly within ordinary probability to suppose that the track, with its deviations, originally prescribed to the missing expedition, could be so extensively pursued and variously intersected, without traces of its progress being met with, or the adventurers themselves dis- covered and relieved. The time for hope, though fast passing away, is, we confidently believe, not yet extinct. For besides the grounds of remaining hope already suggested, there is yet one other to vhich the piously consi- derate mind will hardly fail to dwell upon with consoling impression to the last. Ordinarily, in- deed, we have been encoui'aged by a happy expe- rience hitherto, to look confidingly to the goodness and mercy of the God of Providence, who, in the case of all our other adventurers, has so graciously preserved and returned them in safety. In the instance which now so calls forth our earnest sym- pathies, there are special reasons for looking, with much hope, to this grand source of power, for the preservation of the imperilled navigators. We all — if our profession of religion be a reality — admit, in the very fact of our public and private devotions, a blessing derivable from Him who heareth and answereth prayer. Now it is cause of much satis- faction to know, that there are those amongst our absent countrymen who are not only God-fearing ON AIDS TO FURTHERANCE OF RESEARCH. 95 men, but eminently men of prayer, among whom the Commander of the Expedition himself is, I well believe, a conspicuous example. And in addition to what we might hope from the personal supplica- tion of the parties in^/olved in perils, we have tlie additional ground of trust in ' the effectual fervent prayers of many righteous' in these realms, which, we are scripturally told, ' availeth much.' And if such prayers have been drawn out of the Christian sympathies of many, more especially were they drawn out on one occasion, within the preceding year, when, urged by the wish of the most devoted, persevering, and talented wife of the Commander of the Expedition, — public prayers were offered in sixty or seventy churches on the same day, and at the corresponding service, when, perhaps, some 50,000 worshippers sent forth their combined suppli- cations, before a Throne of Grace, " for the preser- vation and safe return of the officers and seamen, engaged in the Arctic explorations." For my own part, I cannot but allude to this happy and pious incident, not only with great consolation, but as a ground of Christian hope for a blessing on the researches yet to be made, and for an answer of mercy ; so that yet we might have the privilege of rejoicing over these our imperilled countrymen in tlieir merciful preservation, and happy, happy return. May our gracious Father in Heaven, yield us this blessed result ! Jh 96 m iJ II". * APrENDIX. I. — On the Researches by the Herald and Plover, BY Behring Strait, in the Summer of 1849. To complete the historical sketch of measures hitherto undertaken in search of the Franklin Expedition, — the abstract of the proceedings by Behring Strait during the summer of 1849, has been reserved for this position, for the benefit of the Admiralty Despatches, just arrived. From hence we learn, that the Herald, 22, Captain Kellett, C.B., sailed from Oahu, on the 19th of May, and arrived at Petropaulski, on the 24th of June. Proceeding north- ward, she passed Behring Strait, on the 14th of July, and anchored at Chamisso Island, on the 15th, where the Plover was found at anchor. The Plover, as was expected, had been so delayed in her progress the year before, that she was unable to reach the position appointed for search. She had wintered at Noovell, on the coast of Kamtchatka, — had cut out of her winter harbour on the 30th of June, and had just suc- ceeded in reaching the appointed rendezvous the day before the arrival of the Herald. The ships, joined by the Nancy Dawson, yacht, sailed from Chamisso, on their voyage of research, on the 18th of July. On the 20th, they were off Cape Lisburne, and, passing Icy Cape, the boat expedition, under Lieut. PuUen, — consisting of the Herald's Pinnace, decked over, and three other boats, — was despatched on the 25th. These APPENDIX. 97 K, ;o le le »r 1. t, d 1 r 1 1 t boats, accompanied by the adventurous yacht, went round, and for some little distance beyond. Point Barrow, together, when, agreeable to instructions, two whale-boats, being fully provisioned and equipped for separate service, pro- ceeded on the search towards Mackenzie River, — it being purposed, should that position be happily attained, of which there was every prospect, that the men should ascend the river to Fort Hope, and return by York Factory, in Hudson Bay, in the summer of 1850. The Herald, meanwhile, advanced northward, along the edge of the pack, until finally stopped by ice, July 28th, in latitude 72' 51' N. and longitude 163'= 48' W. From that period until near the end of September, this ship was engaged in active explorations of the region intermediate betwixt the impenetrable Arctic ices, and the American coast, discovering and landing on an island in 71*^ 20' N., longitude, 175*^ 16' W. besides discovering other lands inaccessible by reason of ice. But no traces of, or informa- tion concerning, the Franklin Expedition, were anywhere met with. On returning to Cape Lisburne, the appointed ren- dezvous, the two larger boats which had set out with Lieut. PuUen's expedition, were met with, along with the yacht. Having equipped the Plover, which was to winter in Kotzebue Sound, and made some final researches, the Herald left the Sound for the southward on the 29th of September, and passing Behring Strait, on the 2nd of October, reached Mazatlan, from whence her despatches are dated, on the 14th of November last. jii 98 APPENDIX. m ' 1 t, ;l I )'■■<»»- v.. ,., „ .„,- Ci8" Jj.'rliillilxKii Jl , IViiKc \ w.ii'.'.s i.y f\i,i,-tiii-i^/i /;' i' V Ls;Ji<.v\ «) U I „^,, O V /'"■P' '^ r^/wi-<'^^^'t; ". ■Mi^Vy^MiiniiH- lull- 8 .>-. 'J^ A J i- <,'.\NaJ1a3- Sculp? 2GI -J ' t'llil ' " "1 It 1141, 1,1.1 72" ""«■ :)»".' ^Airu^ . \v R Y Strait ■I/ ., /[ .'4i m ■#(^ /l„hi- I . O /,. ■!.■ • CI Piivy r\ Yoiinij r\ S.tiii.ryiH,' ly .Hi) s .1 1 M IhI » .rrl ..^^^'■' 3 /.i/litwti'/ir I. ^ «e^ ^'./rUrlilj"/*'"* fi 2 3 Wntiworth I .' 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