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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 ]V LETTEllS FROM NORTH AMERICA, WRITTEN DUR1^'G TiiE SUMMEll OF 1853 PRIVATE IMPRESSION. Canterturp: ST. ATrOUSTlNE's COLLEGE PRESS. l85o. ; '.s I •!• The following Letters were addressed to the Warden of St. Augustine's by one of the Members of the Colleffe, during a somewhat hurried tour in the Northern parts of the United States and the Soutliern parts of the British Possessions in North America. A few copies are now printed, at the request of several friends, who wished to possess some account of a tour which extended over parts of North America seldom visited by Englishmen. With the exception of a few verbal alterations and trifling omissions, the Letters are printed exactly as they were written. V «> «> LETTER I. Halifax^ Nova Scotia, May \\th, I8r)3. My Dear Warden, You -will have hetird of our safe arrival at Halifax last Wednesday. As Freer was writinf? to Canter- bury, I did no more than send a few lines to my Iricnds at home to convey to them the intellii^'ence of our arrival, intending to reserve particulars till I wrote to you. Al- though I may not be able to post this letter for some days, I will commence it now, and continue it at intervals as I am able to do so. Wc left the landing-stage at liiverpool punctually at eleven o'clock on Saturday, in the steam tender. Almost the first person that we recognized on board was Mr. Disney, who was accompanying as far as the Cambria a brother Missionary to Labrador, ]Mr. Hutchinson, to whom he introduced us. He in his turn introdiwd us to j).lrs. Johnson, of whom you have heard from Frce^ ; and a few minutes after, Mr. Levin and I recognized each other. Our party was now complete. In the course of half an hour we reached the Cambria, and at twelve we fairly started under a salute from the American Steamer Atlantic. Towards evening we sighted the Isle of Man, and ere long some of the passengers began to feel uncomfortable, although B LETTER 1. tlierc was very littlu ffvound swell. On Sunday we had service in the Saloon, 1 rcadin*'- the Piavers; Mr. Hutchinson f^avc an extempore comnient on the first l^sahn ; thinking that on account of the very miscellaneous character of our congregation, this would he better than a regular sermon. "We found it very dilRcult to stand in conse(|uence of the motion of the vessel, and scarcely any persons but ourselves atteni])ted to do so. J'v Sunday eveninii; we beifan to feel the swell of the Atlantic, and this upset nie. l"'reer and Mr. Hutchinson had given up some hours before. On ?>Ioiulay we were fairly launched on the Atlantic, having taken leave of the Irish coast. The swell was now very unpleasant, especially during the night ; we kept close to our berths during- Monday. I got up lor a few hours during Tuesday ; I forget Avhether Freer did or not. We had a tolerable cal>in with two berths, and made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would allow. It was a very great thing to be by ourselves. On Wednesday the swell increased, and during the following alternate days Ave did not attempt to leave our berths, but got up for a few hours on Thursday and Saturday. On Sunday I was quite unable even to attend the service, which ]VIr. Hutchinson under- took alone. On the second Monday the swell had in great measure subsided, and we no longer experienced any feelings of sea sickness. On Wednesday morning it was thought we were approaching the coast of Nova Scotia, but a dense mist prevented our seeing the land. Soon after breakfast Freer came rushing down into the cabin to tell us that there had been an alarm of " breakers ahead," and at that moment we felt the engines suddenly reversed. We soon fired two carronades which were answered from the fort, and in the course of an hour a pilot came on board. About eleven a. m. we obtained our first glimpse of the i; Air, WTIC. « ii short' of the Now \N'oiUl, with the white lines of breakers faintly niarkinj^^ out the coast. Soon ai'ter, the fog partially cleared off, and we lb ul ourselves entering the magnificent harbour of Halifax. "We landed at Cunard's AVharf about one. I had not altered my watch during the passage and it was therefore three hours and three quarters too fast. On board the steamer, during the voyage out, they subtract about twenty minutes from each day and night. We were soon comfortably established at a boarding-house in Halifax. On the whole our passage has been favourable, although our steamer was the slowest of any on the line ; and being little more than half the size of some of the others, we probably felt the motion much more than we should have done, had we been in the Niagara, for which the Cambria had been sub- stituted for this trip. The waves of the Atlantic were not by any means what I had expected to see them, they were neither so long nor so high as I had anticipated, and there was great irregularity in the motion ; instead of running in some degree in parallel lines, they seemed to approach us from all sides, causing sometimes a pitch, sometimes a roll, and sometimes striking on one bow, sometimes on the other. I noticed that very fre- quently there would be a succession of three or four waves of considerable height, and then the vessel would proceed for a few seconds quite smoothly. Freer would sometimes call out to me from the lower berth, " AVhat a nice smooth piece that was," but generally we were neither of us inclined to speak unnecessarily. I must confess that I was rather de- sirous of seeing some of the unusually high waves, could we have had them only for a short time ; but as the waves of the Atlantic are probably, like some ghosts, easier to raise than to lay, it is well perhaps that my wish was not gratified. I might soon have had reason to say ** Evertere rates totas optantibus ipsis Di faciles." r.r.TTER I. V My idea of tlic waves was that it would be sonuiliiiii^ like sailinj? up one side of our library roof aiid down the other ; l''reer tliou:ists tell us that tliese stria? belon^i^ to a period tens of thousands of years prior to the creation of man, and yet some of them are as fresh and clearly defined as when first formed, although so minute that what appears to the naked eye to be a single line may, by the aid of a magni- fying glass, be sometimes resolved into at least six or seven. Sir Charles I.yell or>ce examined this face of rock ; I am very curious to see wliat he says about it. On Sunday morning I read prayers at St. J'aul's, the Cathedral Church, the Archdeacon preaching ; and in the afternoon I preached at St. Luke's ; and read piayers again in the evening at St. Paul's. Mr. Bullock, who is now incumbent of St. Luke's, was once in Newfoundland, and had at one time thirteen stations to attend to ; then he was moved to Nova Scotia, and was rector of Digby for some years. While there he built seven churches, three schools and one parsonage house. After- wards when it was thought he needed some work of a less laborious character, he was moved to Halifax, where he had at one time five services on Sunday. Such is Colonial work. Windsor, Nova Scotia, Monday Evening. I started this morning at nine o'clock from Halifax by coach for Windsor ; the first ten miles of the road led us round by the head of Bedford basin, and I have seldom seen a finer expanse of water. After this we began to ascend to the higher ground, and for some hours we passed through the most desolate country imaginable, covered with charred forests, the remains of a conflagration that occurred many years ago. In some places a fresh growth had sprung up, but far above this the old monarchs of the forest still reared their burnt and 8 i,r;TTi,R I. v.ilherod arms. Throughout tlie whole extent of forest the ground was almost hidden by frajjjments of rocks, and by the charred stumps of the trees. J^robably in the summer there would be some folia<^e to be seen, for I noticed a few birch trees intermin<5led with the burnt pines. After about twenty miles, the appearance of the country ijradually improved, and the clearinjjfs became more frequent and extensive. The country near Windsor is very beautiful indeed ; in every way therefore a contrast to the parts further inland. It leminded me of some parts of North Wales, and in places somewhat resembled the country between Canterbury and Whitstable, this resemblance being increased by the frequent intermixture of wood, with field and pasture land. The soil in this part is vo'y rich, evi- dently of an alluvial character. We did uot reach Windsor till six, although the distance is only forty-five miles, and we had six horses to drag us through, rather than along, the roads. On my arrival I walked up to King's College, and called upon the President, to whom Archdeacon Willis had given me an introduction. He kindly asked me to sleep at his house, but I did not think it worth while having my luggage carried up for one night ; tomorrow I am to go to breakfast, and to spend the morning with the President. I am to start in the afternoon for Kentville, where I must sleep, as the coach does not go on to Annapolis until the following morning. I have written to Griflfiths to meet me there. Thence I hope to find a steamer across the bay of Fundy to St. John's, N. B. This runs only twice a week, and has the character of being such a crazy craft, that the government mails are sent by land. Fredericton, Friday. I find that I may add only one sheet more to this letter, and must therefore compress as much as possible the account of my journey hither. I ricl ANXAT'OLIS. DIGBY. 9 and licaving Windsor on Monday afternoon, after spending a very pleasant morning with the President, I reached Kentville, a poor village, about nine o'clock; here the coach stopped for the night. We started early the next morning, and arrived at Annapolis in the course of the at'ternoon. The country through which we passed was very beautiful, resembling the tamer parts of Switzerland, being much of the character of the scenery which generally borders a mountainous country. At Annapolis I spent an hour or two with Mr. Gilpin, the Rector, a collateral descendant of Bernard Gilpin, the Apostle of the North. I found that he possessed no relics of his great namesake, but he shewed me a walking-stick which had once belonged to his nephew and biographer, William Gilpin. A striking resemblance of feature was observable between Mr. Gilpin and the portraits of his ancestor. The Steamer left Annapolis at six p.m. for Digby. The bay of Annapolis reminded me of the Lake of Zurich, though it perhaps hardly equals it. In point of beauty it seemed to me to occupy a middle place between the Lakes of Zurich and Neuchatel. On landing at Digby I found that Mr. Gray, to whose care I had addressed my letter to Griffiths, was at a place some miles distant, and was not expected to return for several days. This made it very probable that my letter had not reached its destination. I was therefore obliged, much to my disappointment, to give up all hopes of seeing him ; and as the steamer had, fortunately for me, been detained at Digby for more than an hour, I was able to go on in her that evening ; otherwise I should have been obliged to stay three days at Digby with nothing to do or to see. We had a very smooth passage across the Bay of Fundy. We reached St. John's at five a.m. This is the most flou- rishing town in the province, but contains nothing of interest. I was glad therefore to take the morning steamer for Frede- ricton. We started at ten, but in consequence of the strength c 10 LETTER I. of the current, owing to the melting of the snow on the high ground in the north of the Province, we did not reach Frede- ricton till nine. Although it was so late I thought it better to go immediately to Mr. Podmore's to enquire where Williams was to be found. It was most fortunate that I did so ; for he was then at Fredericton and about to start next morning for Woodstock. He agreed to alter his plans, and remain one day longer at Fredericton, in order that we might go on together the following day. It is generally a tedious voyage of fourteen hours, although the distance is only sixty miles ; this is owing to the strength of the current, which in some places forms almost rapids. I have been very much pleased with the Cathedral here ; I do not remember to have seen any modern building at all to be compared with it, as a whole. St. Bartholomew's Day has been fixed for the Consecration. They have already an excel- lent Cathedral library of about 2500 volumes, all good useful books. I have been spending the day with the Bishop, who kindly pressed me to stay hei- over Sunday, but I think it better to go on with Williams, in order to see his outlying stations. I am writing this at the Bishop's house, which is beautifully situated above the river, at a point where the scenery much resembles that on the parts of the Rhine about Mayence. We have just had a magnificent sunset. Hence I propose taking the route through the States of Maine and New Hampshire, and expect to reach Boston before the end of next week. r LETTER II. i' ¥ Bangor, on the Penobscot, State of Maine ; Tuesday, May 24th. My Dear Warden, My last letter carried me as far as Friday the 20th. After a very pleasant day spent with the Bishop, we walked back to Fredericton, and I took my last look at the Cathedral by moonlight ; of course its look of newness was not then so apparent, and I was able to admire it even more than before. The design is bold and good, especially as regards outline. It is situated on a point of land formed by a bend of the river, and is thus visible from all parts. The general situation of Fredericton is very fine ; one of the best views is from the Bishop's house, which goes by the name of Salamanca, given it, I suppose, by its owner, for the Bishop only hires it. From this point one gets a fine view down two long reaches of the river, from both sides of which the hills rise boldly, covered to their summits with pine forests. Fredericton itself is but a poor place, although the seat of government. On Saturday morning I started with Williams at six a.m. W^e had a fine day and the river looked well. The scenery is much finer above Fredericton than below it. The stream was very strong against us, and in one place, which might be fairly called a rapid, the boat for some minutes did not pro- gress as many yards, and once was driven back ; but at length the perseverance of the engine seemed to get the better of the 12 LETTER tl. ] obstinacy of the current, and the watery hill was surmounted. Tlie stream was here so strong, and the banks approached each other so closely, that the surface of the water was very perceptibly higher in the middle than at the sides. The river St. John receives several tributary streams, most of which still retain their Indian names, as the ^laktooquak, the Skoodawabskook, the Nakkawikkak, the Koak, (plenty of frogs there too, I suspect,) the Pokiok, &c. ; the last of these forms a very graceful waterfall, at its junction with the main stream. The colour of the water of several of these was remarkable; that of the Pokiok, before it was broken by the fall, looked just like treacle, and the fall, as we could not refrain from observing at the time, looked as if it were formed of London porter. This colour must be caused by the red- ness of the earth in the higher parts of the hills, which is dis- integrated by the rapid thaw. Yet the water, when closely examined, is not by any means muddy, but only slightly dis- coloured. Other tributary streams are the Shoggomok and the Maduksnakik. This last has its confluence at Woodstock. Although the distance is only sixty miles, we did not arrive till late in the afternoon. Even this was a quick passage, for of the two steamboats that left Fredericton before us, one did not arrive till midnight, and the other came steaming in just after service on Sunday morning. Wilhams and his rector, Mr. Street, have to distribute themselves among four Churches ; one in Woodstock, the others distant three, five, and seven miles, respectively. In the morning Williams read prayers at the Church at Wood- stock, and I preached. In the afternoon ]\lr. Street took me to the Church at Jacksonville, five miles off, where I read prayers, and he preached ; Williams going meanwhile to Richmond, distant seven miles. In the evening Williams again read prayers, and I preached, at the same church as in the morning. During my stay we liad two or three pleasant walks in the neighbourhood of Woodstock. I 1 IllVKR PLNOHSCOT. I-l'MBKUMEX. 13 Early on Aronday morning I started by a conveyance whifh carried nu* as far as a place called ^lattawanikoe^-, in the State of Maine. The frontier line is marked by a very humble iron post bearing the date 1842, at which time the frontier line was settled by Commissioners fro:n the two Powers. Next I took a rude kind of stage coach which runs, or rather cree|)s, from Mattawamkoeg as far as the Penob- scot ; the road wiis one of the worst I ever saw. During the whole day we passed through a dense forest, with but few clearings. Some of my fellow passengers were what are called " Lumbermen," (lumber means timber.) I never saw Englishmen in such an uncivilized stale, and had scarcely imagined that human nature could take so brutalized a form. T am sure^they are worse than our Enylish navigators ; what the Irish may be, I know not. I spoke to-day, when an opportunity offered, to one of the boys, whom 1 had heard using awfully bad language ; he behaved very well when I spoke to him quietly upon the subject, and said that such language was so common among them, that he had almost ceased to regard it as wrong at all. He told me that at school he had learned " to read and that," but had never had his duty taught him ; so much for godless schools. He promised me that when he returned home in a few weeks, he would go to church and try to learn. This example shews perhaps that these poor men are not so bad as they make one think them to be. I noticed also an instance of remarkable honesty in one of them ; a man refused employment, in a case in which he knew that his work would be quite unprofitable to his employer. Early on Tuesday morning I started by Steamer on the Penobscot ; and after eight hours steaming reached this place. This is the first American city, as it calls itself, that I have seen. There is every appearance of great prosperity. Though begun only a few years ago, it might now be called a hand- some town. H I (») 'i 14 LETTER II. To morrow mornin«j^ I propose to take a Steamer to Port- land (which will involve three hours of Atlantic) on my way to Boston. At present, I must confess, I am not at all favour- ably impressed with the Americans. The population will probably improve in character as one draws nearer to the States that have been longer settled. I hope to reach Boston tomorrow evening. I need not say how much I am longing for the packet of letters, which I hope to find there. It is now tea time. All American Hotels are on the plan of boarding houses, and meals are taken in com- mon. This Hotel, though in a third-rate American town, is very large. Bishop Southgate's Rooms, Boston ; Friday Evening, May 27th. I started from Bangor on Wednesday morning, and had a pleasant day's sail down the Penobscot. This river, as it approaches the sea, widens very much, and assumes in places the appearance of a fine lake. About five hours after leaving Bangor, we were on the Atlantic and owing to a dense fog were rather late in arriving at Portland. We entered the harbour at about six and found the railway cars in readiness to take us on to Boston, 110 miles. As it was an express train, we were only three hours on the road. This is un- usually fast for these railways. Our steamer to Portland, the Daniel Webster, was the finest I had ever seen, containing no less than five large and handsome saloons, two or three of them most gorgeously furnished. Every thing on board was in excellent order. On arriving at Boston, I went to the Winthrop House, which T found to be a very large and magnificent hotel, far too grand to be comfortable. The charge there is two dollars and a half per day. This, considering the accommodation, is not unreasonable. Next morning {St. Augustine's Day,) I walked out to t » BOSTON. 15 IS I deliver two or three introductions. One of these was to Bishop Southgate, the late Missionary Bishop to Constanti- nople. I found, to my regret, that he was in Maryland, act- ing for Bishop Whittingham, whom you will rememher. I met, however, at Bishop Southgate's, a very agreeable clergy- man, an American Navy chaplain, who asked me to his room. We were soon friends, and he took me to see the great Navy Yard. There we saw two line of battle ships, the Vermont and the Ohio. We went on board the former. I had never been on board a man of war before. After seeing the Naval Chapel, the rope walk, (a solid looking building of granite, 1380 feet long,) and other sights, we went to Bunker's Hill. On our return, I found that my friend was living in a private boarding house, in which both he and Bp. Southgate had rooms. I found that I could have the Bishop's rooms during his absence ; and I was not sorry to remove from my great hotel, where I was one of 300 guests, to a small and pleasant party in Bowdoin Street. Among the visitors here were two of my fellow-passengers of the Cambria. We are quite as comfortable here as in a private house. I need not say that I thought much and often of you all during the day. This forenoon I went to the State House, where the Pro- vincial Parliament of the State of Massachusets is sitting. I did not stay long. Some speechifying on the outside was of a much more uncommon character. This proceeded from a woman, one of a new sect, who are called here " Come- outers." She was declaiming furiously, though I could not make out upon what particular subject. She frequently quoted long texts of Scripture. She did not give me at all the idea of a mad woman, strange as her conduct seemed. Her name is Abby Folson, and she enjoys a certain kind of celebrity in Boston, and may be hereafter as renowned as the female heresiarchs of early days. She seemed to be a very radical reformer in all matters, civil, ecclesiastical, and social. This is my first specimen of Transatlantic fanaticism. 'I? 10 i,i;T'n R 11. As a set-oft" agjainst this I may tell you that I had this morn- ing the great pleasure of tiiking part for the first tinie in the ]>ul)lic serviee of the American Church. This was at the Church of the Advent, of ■which Hishop Southgate is Hector. My friend the Navy Chaplain (whose name is Lamheit) read the service as far as tlie commencement of the Creed, at which I)art I he^an and continued to the end of the Litany, this heing the usual division of the prayers when two Clergymen are officiating. The service was concluded by some addi- tional prayers, preceded by the l.'JSth Psalm chanted. In this last part an old clergyman officiated ; such a fine old man, with long silvery hair and a countenance like the portrait of Bishop White. The canticles were sung well and heartily l)y the congregation, a small choir of three or four little boys leading. I recognized all the chants as old friends. After an early dinner, Mr. Lambert drove me out to Cambridge Univer-^ity, about four miles from Boston, to see the Observatory. I had an introduction from a friend to Dr. Bond, the astronomer. We were shewn over the observatory by his son, Mr. George Bond, who, though only twenty-seven years of age, has made several discoveries in the department of Physical Astronomy, and is honourably mentioned by Humboldt. Here we saw the great refracting telescope, fifteen-inch aperture, the largest refractor in the world. This, with a moderate sized transit instrument and a small equatoreal, appeared to be pretty nearly all the instruments they possessed. They seemed to do but little meridional work there, confining themselves to what I once heard Airy call the play -work of Astronomy, such as looking out for double stars, making micrometrical measurements, and the like. The whole was in perfect order. Young Bond is a most agreeable man. He was in England two years ago. He also visited Humboldt at Berlin. Humboldt mentions him in connection with a photographic view of a portion of the moon's surface which he had with him. .r MOIXT AUnrUN CEMLTERV. 17 When we were speaking about this, Mr. Lambert men- tioned that when he was at Rome in 1841, he was visiting the Observatory there, and the astionomer (whose name I forget) said to him, " I will immortalize you, and name a mountain after you," he being then engaged in mapping out a portion of the moon's surface. "We were laughing about this, when 1 happened to turn towards Miidler's great Uerlin map of the moon, which was hanging against tlie wall, and there my eye fell upon Mount liambert ! I have some doubts, however, about this mountain having been named after my companion. Thence we went to Blount Auburn Cemetery, the most beautiful by far that I ever saw ; more beautiful than Pere la Chaise can ever have been, even before it was crowded as it now is, and more beautiful likewise than the cemetery at Frankfort. Nature has done much more for this than for either of those, and Art full as much. A more lovely spot cannot be conceived. No wonder the Bostonians are proud of it. The only great names that I noticed were those of Spurzheim and Bowditch. Each monument bore simply the name of the man ; certainly the noblest inscription, when the name alone is sufficiently suggestive. We next went to call on Longfellow. He received us with great kindness and courtesy. We stayed only about ten minutes, as it was late in the afternoon. Longfellow seems to be a most agreeable man, and was so kind as to ask me to call upon him again. I am going, if possible, on Monday. l! Monday, May SOtJi. I spent Saturday morning chiefly in reading ; indeed the intense heat deterred me from going oat during the early part of the day. In the afternoon Mr. Levin drove me to see his house at Brooklyne, about four miles from Boston. He had kindly intended that I should be his guest during my stay here, but as he was in the midst of the confusion of moving D 18 LETTER 11. into a new house, he was unable to receive me. On tlie whole, one is more independent at a bourdin<^ house, and the kind hospitality of the Jiostonians has kept my days and evenings pretty well filled with engagements of various kinds. These I could not have accepted, had 1 been staying at a friend's house. On Sunday morning I went to service at the Chapel in tlie Navy Yard. Mr. Lambert read prayers, and I preacjjed. In the afternoon I preached at the (Miurch of the Advent. The service was precisely as we have it at St, Augustine's ; even the chant for the Psalms was the same as that which we use for that evening, (the 29th.) I do not remember the name of the composer, but it is one of my most favourite chants. There is so much good and kind feeling among the church- people here. Several of the leading members of the Church of the Advent have called upon me. They seem to consider a stray clergyman's officiating in their church as a sort of general introduction. I have determined to sail from Boston, instead of New York, on my return home, as this will give me another sight of my good friends here, and at Halifax also. Tomorrow I propose starting for Hartford. I have not yet heard from Cleveland Coxe, and am therefore rather afraid he is from home. I am going out to Cambridge this afternoon to spend an hour or two with Longfellow. LETTER III. Houne of Rev. Arthur Cleveland Coxe, Hartford, Cutinrcticiit ; June 3rd, 18r)3. My Dear Wardkn, I think I posted (or as the expression here is, mailed,) my last letter on Monday morning. That afternoon I spent with Longfellow, and very much enjoyed my visit ; he is an agreeable man, and possesses great conversational powers. He kindly shewed me over his house, which is a handsome one, and was chosen as Washington's head-quarters, while the neighbourhood of Boston was the seat of the war. Longfellow wrote his Hyperion in the room in which Washington slept, and in which he wrote many of his dispatches ; indeed all those that are dated from Craigie House. Mrs. Longfellow is a very agreeable person, and is, I am told, the heroine in Hyperion. She is his second wife, though his first love ; and, in addition to other and better attractions, was a rich heiress. I was obliged to return to Boston early in the evening to go to a party at Dr. Shattuck's, a member of the Church of of the Advent. Here I met many of the elite of Boston, among them Dana, the venerable poet, almost the Wordsworth of the New World. His son, whom I also met, is an eminent Barrister, and author of " Two Years before the Mast." I saw there also nearly all the Episcopal clergy of Boston. Dr. Shat- tuck is the eldest son of another Dr. Shattuck, who is still I!* il ill 20 LETTER III. living, and is a man of very large property. The son, thongh not at present a rich man, is a most munificent contributor to all the charities of the parish of the Advent. He and his wife were at Canterbury three years ago, and saw St. Augustine's. They made particular enquiries after Archdeacon and ^Irs. Harrison, and other friends. On Tuesday morning I left Boston with great regret. It had been my second home on this side of the Atlantic; 1 need not say that 1 have now found another. Just before starting I received a letter from j\Irs. Johnson, enclosing one from Freer, who had just arrived at St. John's, after a three day's voyage from Halifax ; news of this will doubtless have reached you long before you receive this. After morning prayers at the Church of the Advent, I took the cars, i. e. started by railway, for Hartford. I found that Cleveland Coxe had that day returned from T^ew York, where he had been to attend the funeral of his father-in-law. He allowed me to remain till the next day at my hotel, but insisted upon my being his gucFt during the remainder of my stay. He and his wife are as kind as possible ; and really all the good people here, as was the case at Boston and Halifax, treat one with so much kindness, and always make so much of the " English Clergyman," as to cause some fear that one's feelings both of gratitude and modesty are in danger of being exhausted. We dined yesterday with Dr. Coit, the author of a capital book on Puritanism, and one of the Professors here ; the evening we spent at Bp. Brownell's, who is at present the Presiding Bishop of the American Church. Dr. Williams, the Assistant Bisliop, is absent on a confirmation tour. Trinity College is a plain building, possessuig no pretensions to architectural beauty ; but it stands well, and the grounds about it are well laid out and planted. The Library is well filled, but a large portion of the books form part of the private library of Dr. Coit, who has most liberally placed them in the College Library, for general use. Here I saw (I need not say HARTFORD. NLVV IIAVEX. 21 with how much interest) Bp. Seabury's mitre, of which Coxe makes some mention, if I remember ri V L E T T E R 1 V t (I PhUadelfhia ; Tnesday, June 2\st, 1853. My Dear Wardex, For some days I have been roaming about so much that I have aHowed my usual period for writing to pass by without a letter. In my last I told you that I was going up the Hudson with Bishop Wainwright to the consecration, or rather dedication, of a chapel school. This was on Saturday, the 11th of June. I left New York in company with the Bishop and Dr. Haight, by rail at nine o'clock, for Dearman, a small town thirty miles up the Hudson. There we found about twenty clergymen, among them Dr. iVIc Vickar (the biographer of Bishop Hobart), through whose instrumentality the school had been erected ; also his son, whom I met two years ago, at Archdeacon Harrison's. About eight clergymen were selected to take part in the service. Dr. Haight and I read the Lessons, and Dr. Mc Vickar preached. The sermon is to be printed, together with an account of the proceedings of the day. Among the congregation was Washington Irving, to whom I was introduced ; also an excellent layman, Mr. Minturn, who was present at the consecration of St. Augus- tine's. He mentioned this, and I called to mind a little circumstance which proved that we had met that day, face to face. After service about twelve of us dined at Dr. Mc Vickar's. I was fortunate enough to be placed between m;\v vokk. 27 AVashitiiiton Irvin;;' and Mr. Minturn. Dr. Mc Vickar pro- posed the healtli of St. Augustine's, to wliieh the Bishop added the names of the Warden and Mrs. Bailey. This I promised duly to communicate. After a very pleasant day, we returned in the evening to New York. On Sunday 1 preached at St. John's, Mr. Hobart reading prayers ; and we afterwards went to St. Paul's Church to the Holy Comiimnion. Both St. John's and St. Paul's are offshoots of the celebrated Trinity Church, and are served by the Trinity Church clergy. These consist of the Rector (Dr. Berrian), the Bishop, Dr. Haight, and two other clergymen. In the afternoon 1 accompanied the Bishop to a confirmation of some deaf mutes, as the deaf and dumb are here called. I'he service was entirely con- ducted by means of signs, not the mere finger signs com- monly in use, but a system of a much more graceful character. The Bishop's address to the candidates was interpreted to them by the officiating clergyman. Both the mother and the wife of this clergyman are deaf mutes. In the evening, when I was taking a walk with Mr. Hobart on the great wharf, we espied a large fire at Brooklyn, on the opposite side of the harbour. We crossed by the steam ferry, and beheld such a sight as I never before witnessed. There were piles of timber blazing clearly at a white heat, while the wind, which was blowing fiercely, often caused the flames to appear like huge cataracts of fire. The fire engines could make no impression, and the flames were let alone to do their worst. Property was consumed to the amount of 300,000 dollars, chiefly wood and coal. On Monday, after visiting Greenwood cemetery in the morn- ing, with Mr. Hobart, I started in the evening up the Hudson, with Dr. Haight, for Poughkeepsie, a town about ninety miles up the river. The scenery looked well by the evening light, but as far as I could judge, it is not by any means equal to the scenery of the Rhine. The great glory of the Hudson is its width, which averages one mile; in places it is i ,ii k % 28 LETTER IV. vt h I' ■*i as much as three or more. After sleeping at Poughkeepsie, I left Dr. Haight there and proceeded by rail to Hudson, about thirty miles further, to join the Bishop. There a * Convocation ' of clergy was to meet for the dispatch of the home missionary work of the diocese. There were about thirty clergy present. Among them Dr. Kip, the author of "The Double Witness of the Church," Dr. Potter, of Albany, and a very old Presbyter, Dr. Berhans, in his ninetieth year, who was ordained by Bishop Seabury. Next day we crossed the Hudson to Coxsackie, to the consecration of a church, and re-crossing the river, attended afternoon service at Stockport, where the Bishop held a Confirmation, and then reached New York late in the evening. Thursday I spent partly at the Seminary, partly in taking leave of my New York friends. On Friday morning I started for Philadelphia, and arrived there in the evening. As Mr. Odenheimer could not receive me at his own house, I was quartered at Mr. Wilmer's, who is considered, and justly so, the Gaius of Philadelphia. There I had the room which was occupied by Jenny Lind during her stay at Philadelphia. 1 stayed with Mr. Wilmer till the following Wednesday, seeing meanwhile most of the sights of the city and neighbourhood. The principal of these are the Mint, and the great water works on the river Schuylkill. We were so fortunate as to be shown over the Mint by Mr. Peel, the acting master of the whole establishment. Under his guidance we saw the entire process. W'hat most surprised me was the great complexity of the chemical processes through which the metals must pass in order to be fully purified, and separated ; the Californian gold being found much alloyed with silver. These are separated by means of nitric acid. The actual stamping is performed by means of the gcnott, which you will see is admirably adapted for the purpose, pro- ducing, as it does, a power almost incalculably great, through a small space. This machine is also much simpler and smaller than the clumsy stamping presses in common use. I could WASHINGTON. 29 tell you much more about the Mint, and all the otlier sights, if I had time. I must just mention that I was shewn in one of the public buildings a bench taken from Christ Church, I think, which had been occupied at ditferoiit times by Washington, La Fayette, Franklin, and Bishop White ; also the bell, a great treasure in the ages of patriotic Ameri- cans, which first sounded forth the tidings of the declaration of independence. ^1 S Chicago^ on Lake Michigan. On Wednesday morning I left Philadelphia for Baltimore, where I had an introduction to Dr. Atkinson, the Bishop elect of North Carolina. I found little to detain me at Baltimore, and went on to Washington for a night. This city reminded me of Versailles ; the fine Pennsylvania Avenue much re- sembling the beautiful street of Versailles which leads up to the palace. The Capitol is a fine building, and the same may be said of most of the great public offices. I walked up to the Capitol soon after I arrived. It was a bright starlight evening, and I stood for some time gazing on the beautiful views for which this hill is so justly celebrated. I drank the President's health in the fountain which was playing before the grand entrance. As Washington was to be my furthest point south, I noticed carefully the comparative lowness of the Pole Star, and the new constellations which were visible. These were not particularly striking, but there was all the softness and brilliancy of a southern sky, and the whole made an impression upon me which will not easily be effaced. The heat for several days had been intense, so great that I began to think it would prove injurious to me. At Washing- ton the thermometer stood at 98°. I therefore determined to give up all thoughts of going further south ; my original in- tention having been to go to Kentucky for the sake of visiting the Mammoth Cave ; but I thought it would be wiser to turn northwards immediately. I accordingly returned at it 30 I.TTTLR IV. I once to Haltimore, nml aftrr si)tMuliiij< an liour or two at Dr. Atkinson's lumse, I took tlu* niyht express train for l*ittsl)ur<^. l\y noon the next day ( I''ri(Iui/, June 2\f/i J, we were at the foot of the Alleijhany Mountains. These are crossed by means of five or six long inclined planes, up which the railway cars are drawn by means of stationary engines, as was till lately the case on the ^Vhitstable line. Parts of the ascent forcibly reminded me of Switzerland. What would one think of being drawn up the Forclaz in a railway carriage ! Some of the ascents looked terrific, and I felt rather uncomfortable. The line was in a wretched state. Some of the rails were loose at the ends, a most dangerous thing ; yet they have fewer accidents on this Pennsylvania and Ohio railway than on any other line in the Union. When at the highest part of the pass we were 2,(500 feet above the sea, half as high again as the valley of Chamouni ! We ascended, and to my still greater satisfaction descended, in safety, and reached Pittsburg in the evening. This is the dirtiest place you can conceive ; so next morning, after having seen the confluence of the Monongahela and Alleghany, which here unite and form the Ohio, 1 took the cars for Cleveland. On our way we had to wait two hours at a station called Alliance, where the lines diverge. This place is in the midst of a forest, and I made use of the time to get some idea of tho solitude and silence of the uncleared woods. I did not dart to walk far, for fear of losing my way, but I went far enough to feel thoroughly alone. The almost perfect stillness had a very solemn effect, and around me all seemed strange. New trees, new insects, new birds, uttering strange sounds, all told me of a new country. About six in the evening I got my first view of Lake Erie, lying beneath us, and yet seeming to tower above us with its far distant horizon, like a huge ocean. The sun was setting when we embarked, and the stars were already bright in the east. It required some effort to leave the deck, but I went 4' I'KAIUir. N'A^IIOTAH, 31 / i> to iny bt'rth at oleven, and on n\\ixk'\\\<^ -A oil SuncLw morning, t'ouiul tlu' steamer moored in tl»e Stra s of 'i>ietro?\ wiiicli luiite liakes Krio and Huron, svvelliiij» oi nudwa; form the small Lake of St. Clair. I spent Siuio v plcasan y at the house of Mr. Aldis, the Rector of ('hiist ('hurch. The liishop of Michif the wooden house which our students have heen i)uildin{; ill the crypt, thou}j;h inferior to it in point of workman- ship. Sonie of these are the very ori" we were still some distance iVoni our destination, and tlie water in the river was so low that we were often nearly aground. The hoat was only put to a speed of five miles an hour, for fear of running hard upon the mud. A few miles helow " Peru" we were put on shore in the midst of a swamp prairie, and a messenger sent on to order a special train for our conveyance, as fortunately for us there was a railway in the immediate neighbourhood. We reached Chicago in the evening, having been detained three hours on the road by an accident, occasioned by the collision of a second-class passenger train and a ballast train. Our road for more than eighty miles was across a fine open prairie, in many places covered with large patches of sun flowers ; these looked very strange, all of them exactly facing the sun, like a whole army with " eyes right." At Chicago I rejoined my portmanteau and determined to remain there that day and leave by the night train for Lake Erie. I then went to call upon Mr. Clarkson, one of the clergy, who took me with him to dine at the house of Mr. Ogden, one of the chief men in Chicago. There I met a most agreeable party, and enjoyed the afternoon very much. The conversation turned on the (supposed) Dauphin, whom some people think has been discovered in the person of the Rev. Eleazer Williams, a Missionary of the Episcopal Church among the Oneida Indians. You probably saw something about this matter in the English papers a few months ago. To my astonishment I found that some of the party (among them a judge and one or two lawyers,) considered the proofs conclusive. Mr. Ogden gave me the numbers of Putnam's Magazine in which the subject is discussed. These I read with great interest, and find it next to impossible to withhold my assent. I will bring these numbers home with me. The word *' home " pleasantly reminds me that I am now, being at Buffalo, nearly one thousand miles nearer you than when at St. Louis or Galena. ' • H 44 LKTTER V. Leaving Chicago at eight in tlie evening, we reached Mon- roe, on Lake Erie, early on Wednesday morning, and fomid a steamer, as large as the Cambria, waiting for us. We ought to have reached Buffalo the same evening, but owing to a strong head wind we were some hours late, and therefore all the passengers took to their berths. At four this morning we were mercilessly roused, and most of us got up and went on shore. There is sometimes danger of being taken off for another voyage without one's being aware of it. I think I shall remain at Buffalo to-day. You know I am hoping to find several letters. I shall call on Dr. Shelton after breakfast. ■> t •I Bvffalo, on Lake Erie. Much to my disappointment there are no letters for me, except one from Canada. Possibly I may find some at Toronto, but I wrote to the Bishop to ask him to send to me, at Dr. Shelton's, any letters that might arrive. I have had no letter since I was at Philadelphia, more than a month ago. I can only hope that " all is well." I am now comfortably located in the hospitable house of Dr. Shelton, T propose staying here to-day, going to Niagara to-morrow, and returning next day, so as to spend Sunday with Dr. Shelton, and assist him in his services. I have had a letter from Blackman, who is now at Hamilton. I hope to be there on Monday or Tues- day. Thence I shall go on to Toronto, and so by way of Kingston to Montreal and Quebec. I much fear that the Bishop of Quebec will not have returned ; but as the city and neighbourhood are so well worth seeing, I shall go at all events. Thence I must return to Montreal, and take the route by Lake Champlain and Lake George to Albany, where I have pro- mised to spend a day or two with Dr. Potter. After that I shall re- visit New York. Dr. Shelton made many and hearty inquiries after Arch- deacon and Mrs. Harrison, and Mr. and Mrs. Chesshyre. His church, St. Paul's, is the finest I have seen in the States, except Trinity Church, New York. L E T T E H \" I . IfaniiUon, on Lake Ontario ; SaUirday, Julij "I'^rd, 1 8. ')."{. My Dear Warden, I paid my first visit to Niagara on Friday. There is a railway from Buffalo, which takes one within a few hun- dred yards of the Falls. As soon as I alighted, I could hear the noise of the rapids, though not that of the Falls. These sounds are very different in character ; the rapids producing a tenor sound, and the Falls a deep bass. I had an introduction to iSIr. Porter, the owner of Goat Island, and of the land adjacent, and, I suppose, of the Falls also. He took me across the bridge to Bath and Goat Islands, and left me there till dinner time. !My first sight was of the Rapids, and these alone would have satisfied all my expectations. I next walked to the American Fall, and tried to get some idea of its height and general proportions. This it is diflficult to do, on account of the clouds of mist and steam that rise from the waters below. Next I went along the front of Goat Island to the Horseshoe Fall. This is grand beyond description. I spent nearly an hour on the top of the tower which is built on the edge of the rapids of the Horseshoe Fall, from which one may almost look over into the abyss below. The great feature of this fall is the depth of the river, which is said to be more than twenty feet ; this would give, I suppose, approximately, the ' \\ i n ' m i)' 40 i,i:tti,k VI. thickness of llie sheet. I was al)le, with the hv\\) of a tele- scope, to «^et as good an idea of the mass of falling water as if I had been actually viewing it from within the curve of the cataract. 'J'he waters seemed to descend with a slow and majestic motion, and a power absolutely irresistible. From the boiling cauldron below there rises a cloud of mist, which is sometimes visible for forty miles in particular states of the atmosphere. This cauldron must be acres in extent, and is filled with water covered with the whitest foam, and appears to be almost a smooth plain, gently descendhuj from the centre of the Fall. The dilFercnce of the level was, I thought, evident enough. The falling sheet seems to dive under the surface of the water below, and to rise at a distance of perhaps half a mile, and there the river is like a little Atlantic. I sat for a long time gazing at the sight, in order to get the vievvr thoroughly daguern-otyped on my mind, and I think I was successful. In the afternoon T walked down to the Whirlpool by the banks of the river. The rapids below the Falls are very grand, and extend for a distance of four or five miles. At one place, about three miles below the FaDd, is the narrowest part of the river ; here the waters, in their furious course, are so contracted in their bed, that the centre of the river is raised ten feet, it is said, above the level of the water at its banks. 1 managed to descend by a rough path to the level of the river, and there the curvature of the surface was evident enough, though I could not, of course, form any accurate judgment of its amount. The river now suddenly widens, and thus forms the Avhirlpool. Of this I could not get a good idea, as it almost disappears when the waters are high ; but it is easy to see the cause of the phaenomenon. At night my bed-room window opened upon the river, just a!)ove the Falls, but the sound which I heard moat distinctly was that of the rapids. This sound was by night very much louder than by day. The difierence in the degree of loudness MAfJAKA. 47 was very much greater than could be accounted for by tin.' absence of other sounds, wliich durin;; the day niij^ht l)e min- gled with tliat of the water. \ reuieniber that lluiulioldt mentions the same thinj^ with rcsference to the rapids of Orinoco, and accounts for it by the consideration, that diirin<^ the day the currents of air caused by tlic radiation ol the heat of the earth disturb the horizontal strata of the atmo- sphere, and thus hinder the perfect transmission of sound. At night these strata would be sul)ject to much less dis- turi)ance, and thus distant sounds would be more perfectly transmitted. This explanation seems reasonable, and in the case of the rapids of Niagara, the fact is certainly unmistake- able. Although I was, perhaps, a quarter of a mile from the Falls, my bed was very perceptibly shaken, and the same thing is felt at much greater distances. I could not help thinking that this must have been the result of my own imagination, but several friends assured me that such was actually the case. On Saturday I met Dr. Shelton at the station at the Falls, and accompanied him to the house of Mr. Fuller, a Canadian clergyman, with whom we were to spend the day. To ac- complish this we had to cross the Niagara ferry at the foot of the Falls ; this gave me a magnificent view, and also a much better general idea of the whole scene than could have been obtained from any other point. Although the water is, in places, very rough, it is said that no accident has ever occurred at the ferry ; but some considerable amount of skill is required to guide the boat amidst the numerous eddies produced by the rapidity of the currents. On our return we had to cross the ferry again. We met at Mr. Fuller's several Canadian clergy- men, one of whom mistook me for Pearson, upon whom he was (for some reason) reckoning as his curate. On Sunday I assisted Dr. Sjiclton in his services, and re- mained at home during the greater part of Monday, in order to get a little time for wn-iting two or three lelters. In the •18 M'.TTKR VI. I I evcnint^ Dr. Slieltoii took me to call upon ^Ir. Fillmore, the late President of the United States, lie is a very ajj^reeahle man, and we spent an hour or two at his house very pleasantly. He asked me to write to him on my return, to send him some information res])ectinj>' the doctrines of the disciples of Zoroaster, ahout which he had lately hecn reading. Mr. Fill- more is an Unitarian, and had, I fancy, been examining the views entertained by them on the subject of the Trinity. He also asked a good many questions respecting the Hindu Triad. On Tuesday 1 paid my third visit to the Falls, approaching them this time by the river, passing by Navy and Grand Islands. The steamer goes as far as Chippewa on the Canadian side. Even there the current is fearfully rapid, and I felt much relieved when we turned into the little Welland river, and so escaped the possible danger of being carried ov3r the Falls. Once the steamer had a narrow escape, having become for a tim.e unmanageable, in consequence of some part of her machinery being out of order. At Chippewa 1 found out jNIr. Street, the son of Williams's rector at Woodstock^ to whom I had a letter. He walked with me to Table Rock, and after watching the fall for some time from that point we determined to make enquiries as to the practicability of going behind the Falling Sheet, and as it was a favourable day, we agreed to go. We were dressed in a complete suit of oilskin, and commenced the descent. The view which we obtained from the foot of the Falls was alone more than a compensation for our trouble, and as the path seemed perfectly safe, we did not hesitate to proceed. Tiio only real difficulty that one meets arises from the rarc- i'at'tion of the air in the hollow between the rock and the sheet of falling water. The noise is almost deafening. It is quite impossible to describe in few words the marvellous sights and sounds that one thus encounters. To me, the overhanging rock conveyed a much more impressive idea of terrific gran- N'lACiAKA. 49 deiu' than even the fallini^ sheet ; and the thouglit that we were actually under the furious torrent was rather awful. Still there is no real diing-er, although the path is narrow and slippery, and slopes towards the water. The only thing to be feared is losing one's presence of mind, and so allowing oneself to be drawn towards the falling sheet by the suction caused by its descent. I do not think I can give you a better idea of this cavern, if I may so call it, than by comparing it to a very narrow and very lofty cathedral aisle, one side (the right as one enters) being formed of rock, and the other of the falling sheet of water. Its height is about 140 feet, its greatest width six or eight, and one can walk along it a distance of about 240 feet, as far as a point called Termination Rock, where the ledge, which forms the path, suddenly breaks off. We were not sorry to find ourselves again standing safely on Table Rock. I picked up some fragments of rock behind the fall, as mementos of this wondrous cavern. On the whole, these Falls certainly present the grandest combination of beauty and sublimity that 1 was ever privileged to behold ; of sub- limity alone, perhaps the upper part of the Mer do Glace is a grander example. As soon as I arrived at Chippewa, on the morning of the same day, I heard that a boat had been carried over the Falls the night before, with two men in it, and that a third man had narrowly escaped the same fate, and was still in the midst of the rapids, clinging to a log which projected a few feet above the surface of the water. I found that with my glass I could see him plainly from the Canada side. On our return from the foot of the fall, we crossed by the ferry, and found the shore of the American rapids and the bridge crowded with anxious lookers on. All exertions were being made to rescue the poor man, but it plainly appeared that there was little hope of saving him. Two life boats had been let down the rapid from the bridge by means of ropes, but both had been swamped before they reached him. A third boat, a light skiff, G 50 LETTER VI. was being lowered when we arrived. This reached him safely, but the rope attached to it caught under the log, and the boat was thus rendered useless. Next a raft was con- structed and floated towards him ; to this the man lashed him- self, and was, with much difficulty, dragged for a few yards through the rapids, when the head of the raft caught under a rock, and remained immoveable. Another life-boat was now sent for from Buffalo, which arrived by rail about the time that I left. The rest of the sad story is soon told ; the life- boat reached him safely, and the man had unlashed himself from the raft, when the boat struck him a violent blow, and he fell into the water. He attempted to swim to a small island a few yards from him, but of course all his eflbrtS'Were unavailing in the midst of the furious torrent. In a few seconds he was carried over the American Fall. The interest and excitement were intense during the whole day ; one gentleman offered a reward of 10,000 dollars to any one who should save him, and more than 1000 dollars were expended in the efforts that were made. This sad event has naturally cast a gloom over all my recollections of Niagara. On the next day, Wednesday, the 20th of July, I started from Buffalo with Dr. Shelton, for Geneva, on Lake Seneca. Our object was to attend the commencement of the Hobart Free College. We arrived at eleven o'clock, and I was comfort- ably installed at the house of the President, Dr. Hale, who has lately returned from Europe. We had a pleasant party, and in the afternoon I went to call on the Bishop. I found him confined to his room by an attack of hereditary gout. He appeared very glad to see me, and made many enquiries after Canterbury friends. In the evening our good friend Dr. Van Ingen, delivered an address before the members of the " Hermean Society." I could not understand a quarter of it; it was far too metaphysical for me. However, it seemed to give great satisfaction to the audience. Next day, after an unmercifully large number of speeches, the - ) HAMILTON. 51 it the degrees were conferred — these were B.A. degrees to about ten of the alumni. After dining with the Bishop, or rather, in his house, for he could not leave his room, we started on our return to Buifalo, and arrived there about midnight. I must add, that Geneva almost deserves its name ; it is built near the outlet of a very beautiful lake, named after the Seneca Indians. On Friday morning I took leave of my kind host, Dr. Shelton, with whom I had spent a week, and went to the Falls for the fourth time. I had now an opportunity of see- ing the scenery below the Falls, as far as Lake Ontario. The view from the high grounds above Lewiston is very tine. One's eye follows the course of the river through a dense and dark forest until it reaches the lake. We reached Hamilton in about five hours. Blackman met me at the wharf, and took me to his rector's house. The day was very hot, but we took a little walk in the evening. On Saturday morning we walked to the heights for tl^e sake of the view, and on our return, much to my delight, we had a call from Archdeacon Bethune ; with him was Mr. Mc ^'^t^-'ray, the rector of Dundas, of whom I had heard several I .^'' s in the States, and whom I was particularly desirous of seeing. In the afternoon Blackman drove me to Ancaster, to see the country, which is very pretty, much of the character of the Derbyshire scenery. On Sunday morning Blackman read prayers and I preached. In the afternoon I assisted Mr. Geddes at one of his out-lying churches, and in the evening attended the same church as in the morning. Mr. Mc Murray read prayers, and Mr. Ogilby, from Philadelphia, preached. On Monday, we (that is Blackman and I) dined at Mr. Mc Murray's, and there met Mr. and Mrs. Ogilby. It was a great pleasure to me to see them again, as I had received much kindness from them during my stay at Philadelphia. Mrs. Mc Murray is a half Indian, her mother being a full- 52 LETTER VI. blooded Oneida, and daughter of one of the most celebrated chiefs. In the drawing room we saw portraits of several of her family. It seemed strange to be thus entertained b)' an Indian lady ; and though her manners are highly refined and ladylike, her countenance is so strongly marked with Indian features that her parentage is unmistakeable. She talked freely and pleasantly of " her people," but I did not like to ask many questions respecting their present state, as they too, doubtless, like all the other tribes, are fading away before the face of the white man. After one of the most agreeable evenings that I ever spent, we started for a starlight walk to Hamilton. You will be glad to hear that Blackman is very comfortable and hapj^y, and in every way satisfied with his lot. Mr. Geddes is an earnest and energetic man, and sets him a good example, which Blackman is not slow to appreciate. Hamilton is one of the most prosperous towns (or cities, as all the large towns are called, whether Episcopal Sees or not) in all Upper Canada. The population is rapidly increasing, and its fine harbour and its situation, at the head of steam navigation, give it great commercial advantages. The church is now being rebuilt, and when complete will be one of the finest in the province. On Tuesday morning I left by steam for Toronto, and arrived there about noon. After depositing my baggage at a hotel, I went at once to the Bishop's, being impatient to get my letters, which had been awaiting my arrival for some weeks. To my delight I found four, and reckoning enclosures, nearly three times as many. There were several from Woodbridge, two from you, one each from Curteis, Emery, and Petersen, and all the news they contained was good. After I had spent nearly an hour in hurriedly glancing over their contents, the Bishop took me to see Parry, whom I met three years ago at Oxford. Here he is the Rev. Professor Parry. We then went to see Trinity College, which just now looked rather desolate, as it was vacation time. In the library I saw the hi I TORONTO. i)0 face, or leather the back of the Jackson which we gave them, with all our signatures at the back of the title page. Parry took me to caU upon Dr. Beaven, and we went with him to see the university buildings. They are poor enough, much in the style of Downing. The only thing worthy of notice is a fine collection of instruments, and perhaps I may mention a set of the Fathers, pretty complete, but by no means equal to ours. We then went to the new Cathedral. This is a fine and imposing building, and though still unfinished, has cost more than £10,000. In the interior, however, there are some painfully evident shams, as wooden columns, covered with sand, to imitate stone, plaster capitals, and the like. But in these parts, where they have no stone, such things are uni- versal, and perhaps unavoidable ; still they have the bad efi'ect of making one distrust even realities. In the evening we dined with the Bishop. This morning, Wednesday 27th, after calling on the Bishop and on Dr. Beaven, and taking another look at some of the principal buildings, I left by the one o'clock steamer for King- ston, and have been employing the last two or three hours in endeavouring to bring this half journal, half letter, " up to the present time ;" I am now going to take my ease on the deck, and to have another and third spell at my letters. I have read them all twice over already. Montreal, Friday, July 29th. Yesterday morning, about three o'clock, we reached King- ston. I got up for half an hour to get a look at the harbour and fortifications, and then went back to my berth for an hour or two, until we approached the I.ake of the Thousand Islands. This is really the lower end of Lake Ontario, and the commencement of the St. Lawrence river. This part of the lake is about twenty miles in length, and varies in width from four or five to ten uiiles. It is throughout its length and breadth studded with small rocky islands, which are said to be /, 54 i,i;tti:r vi. 1 700 ill number. These are of all sizes, some so small as to contain only three or lour small shrubs. All are covered with vej^etation, and present a most beautiful appearance, like a fairy archipelat^o. After a few miles the river was again clear, and we could form some idea of its general width. In some places it is full as wide as the Mississippi, but does not, from some reason or other, equal it in grandeur. We passed down several rapids late in the day, having changed our steamer at Prcscott, opposite Ogdensburg, for another of lighter draught, in oi'der to enable us to shoot the rapids with less difficulty. It is only of late that steamers have descended the Cedar and La Chine Rapids, a canal having before formed the line of communication between the different levels of the river. It is exciting work to see the vessel steered tlirough the narrow channels in the ledges of rocks, and the boats ap- pear to go up and down hill in a most extraordinary manner. The lower rapids are the most dangerous of any, as the channel is very narrow and crooked, and the stream very rapid. At seven p.m. we reached Montreal, and glad indeed was I to find myself among English soldiers, respectable policemen in uniform, and innumerable portraits of the Queen and Prince Albert. The city itself presents a curious appearance, being a mixture of France and England in every possible way, in its houses, streets, people, and language. The French element, however, decidedly prevails ; I could easily have fancied myself in an old French town, but for the English signs and placards. This morning I have been up the mountain, " Mont-real," with Mr. Ilebden, a clergyman from Hamilton, whom T was fo fortunate as to meet at Toronto. The view from the sumniit is extensive and varied. We could see but one side of tiie island in consequence of the great extent of high ground be- hind us. On our return we went to see the great French Church, or Cathedral, the outside of which is ugly enough. The west end is formed of three lofty arches, a poor imitation MONTREAL. QUEBEC. 55 of Peterborough, and flanked by two very slender towers, which being attached to the end of the lofty mass of the church, give the whole building the appearance of a hu^e snail with its two horns. In one of these towers is the great bell that Mears cast a few years ago. The interior of the church is remarkable only for its vastness ; it is said that there is room for twelve tliousand people, and I can almost believe it. A double tier of galleries runs round three sides of the entire building. The body of the church is filled with pews, and the aisles are closely packed with benches. The general style of the architecture is most barbarous Gothic, and the coloured glass in the windows bad beyond description. On the whole, this building, besides being the largest, is certainly the ugliest of the ecclesiastical edifices that I have seen in the New World. The quarter of the city that was partially destroyed in the late fire presents a remarkable appearance. There are acres of ground covered with ruins, still black from the effects of the fire, and in many places the plank pathway is charred by the hot ashes and the burning pitch that streamed along it. Although the work of restoration is rapidly progressing, the neighbourhood presents such a picture of desolation as is seldom seen. In the evening we are to start by a magnificent new steamer for Quebec. Quebec, Saturday. We arrived here about seven. The first view of Quebec from up the river is very grand. The heights are covered with fortifications, and rise boldly from the river. The rock which forms the citadel reminded me of Shakspere's Ciiff*. I have just been to see the good Bishop, and dine with him to-day. I must conclude this letter very hurriedly, as I find the mail leaves this afternoon. I hope I shall be able in my next letter to tell you when I propose to start for England. f ! LETTER VII. u New York, August llth, 1853. My Dear Warden, I brought my last letter if I remember right, to a somewhat hasty conclusion, in order to send it off that morning in time for one of the English mails. In the after- noon the Bishop called for me, and took me to the plains of Abraham, east of the city. There is a small, simple monu- ment erected on the spot where Wolfe fell. About a mile further on, on the north bank of the river, is Wolfe's Cove ; here the English troops were landed by night. We could trace distinctly the hollow way by which they ascended to surprise the French camp. Both the generals fell, and Quebec was surrendered without a siege. We returned by the north side of the city, from which one commands a most magnificent view across a fine valley, perhaps fifteen or twenty miles wide, thickly covered with villages. This is, 1 think, the finest of all the fine views, for which Quebec is so celebrated. The city itself is most picturesque, and appears doubly so after the formal American towns. The unevenness and almost ruggedness of the site renders some of the streets impassable for carriages, and many of the alleys consist entirely of flights of steps. There is an air of antiquity about the whole place which gives it the ap- pearance of an old French city, and such in reality it is. I think 1 never saw a city so full of ecclesiastical buildings of QUEBEC. 57 all kinds. The imnionse wealth of the Roman Catholic Church of course enables the priests to build to their hearts content ; and tliouj^h none of the ecclesiastical edifices are of much architectural merit, the old French style which prevails renders them all sufficiently picturesque. On the whole, the city itself, independently of its situation, is well woith visiting. But the great pride of Quebec is its noble position, as com- manding in every way as that of Dover Castle. The citadel is one of the strongest fortresses in the world, and is con- sidered impregnable even under the modern system of warfare. The interior wall of circumvallation is of very considerable extent, and yet from the nature of the ground, might be defended by a comparatively small number of men. The rock seems formed for a fortress, and what little nature has left undone, art has abundantly supplied. The view from the battlements fronting the river is declared by the inhabitants to be the finest in the world ; and even a stranger may allow that such a piece of vanity is certainly very excusable. I never remember to have seen a nobler view of the kind, em- bracing, as it does, two long reaches of one of the finest of rivers. On Sunday morning I preached in the Cathedral, and Pro- fessor Smith, of King's College, Nova Scotia, in the afternoon. In the evening I preached again at a small district church, of which the Bishop's son is the incumbent. On Monday Dr. Mackie took me a few miles up the St. Lawrence to see the Falls of the Chaudiere. In consequence of the dryness of the season there was but very little water. This however gave us an opportunity of seeing the bed of the fall, which is here of a very curious character. I had seen before a fine view of the fall when full of water, and it was interesting now to see the form of the deep lying rocks and chasms, which, as it were, represent themselves on the surface of this remarkable cascade. We returned by the right bank H 58 I.ETTKR VII. u p I . •' of the St. T^awrence, and thus obtained a view of Quebec from tlie opposite sliore. The next day I went with Mr. Torrance, the Rector of Point Levi, opposite Quebec, about forty miles down the St. Lawrence, to Grosse Isle, the quarantine station. A small government steamer goes there once a week, and we availed ourselves of this opportunity. You will remember that the Bishop, when he was at St. Augustine's, gave us a description of the dreadful scenes at this station during the fever that occurred there in the summer of 1847. In the course of three months there died not less than 5,424 persons. These all lie in the small burial ground on the island. Mr. Torrance himself was one of the clergy sent by the Bishop to the island on that occasion. This of course made the visit most interest- ing to me, as he was able to point out all the localities ; he assured me that he had, as one may well believe to be the case, as distinct a recollection of the whole of that awful time as though all had occurred but a few days before. Six of our clergy fell victims to their self-devotion, and Mr. Torrance himself very narrowly escaped, after a severe attack of some weeks duration. The Bishop himself did not take the fever, although he was some time on the island. Now the island is like a little paradise, and it is hard to believe that it was once the scene of such a dreadful visitation. Upon this island all the emigrants are landed for a few hours, or days, or weeks, as the state of health on board the vessel may determine. One of the clergy of the diocese is stationed there as chaplain, and a position of greater opportunity of doing good can scarcely be conceived. There is a small church at which service might be held on the arrival of each s-hip ; and even a few words spoken to the emigrants at such a time might prove of more value than many sermons afterwards, if indeed it ever fell to their lot to hear any. I went with Mr. Tor- rance into several of the sheds and hospitals ; the people seemed all pleased to see us, and their hearts open to receive rr i NEW YORK. 63 IV Steamer sailing from Boston about the 24th, but on enquiry from Mr. Levin, found that my calchUions were wrong by one week, and that the Cunarders' days of sailing are the 17th and 31st. The former day was earlier than I could have sailed without very inconvenient haste, I am therefore compelled to take the latter day, although it delays me longer than I in- tended. My plans now are to stay at New York (the last three days with Dr. Haight) till Friday. Then after staying one night at New Haven with Mr. Richardson, to reach Hartford by Sunday. There I propose to spend a few days, so as to reach Boston by the following Sunday. I am anxious to spend my last Sunday in America with the clergy of the Church of the Advent. Leaving Boston on Wednesday the 31st, we shall, if we have a fair passage, reach Liverpool on Sunday the 11th. Reckoning upon some custom-house de- tentions, I cannot expect to leave Liverpool till Monday night. I shall probably be obliged to stay one or two nights in Lon- don, and then I hope nothing will prevent my proceeding without delay to Canterbury on Thursday. I shall enquire at the Post-ofKce at Halifax in the hope of finding something there. Perhaps some kind Augustinian will write to me at Liverpool just to say that all is well. I close this letter now, as I may have to dispatch it this evening. i LETTER VIII. ;l ' 'iJ. Netv Haven, Connecticut ; August 2'2nd, 1853. My Dkar Wardex, This is, in all probability, the last letter I shall write you from this side the Atlantic, and it must be a short one. I stayed quietly at New York till last Friday ; dividing my time between Mr. Hobart and Dr. Haight. During the first three days of my stay the heat was very oppressive, but after this, the days and nights were delightful. During this time I managed to see such of the sights as I had omitted on my previous visit — as the *' Novelty " iron-works, Harper's printing office, &c. I was rather disappointed in the latter. By the time I left New York I felt as thoroughly at home as in London, if not more so. I hope to see Dr. Haight once more at Boston, when on his way to Fredericton. He is going there to the consecration of the Cathedral, which is to take place on the 31st. I arrived at New Haven on Friday after- noon, only intending to stay here one night, but in consequence of the absence of one of the clergy, I was seized upon, and induced to stay over Sunday and make myself useful. I am very glad to see New Haven again. It is the prettiest town T ever saw, and stands first in general estimation even among the beautiful towns of New England. I am more than ever impressed with the surpassing beauty of New England; it has all the peaceful home look of Old England, combined with great beauty of scenery and transparency of atmosphere. It 'J CAVE OF THE REGICIDES. 65 ^53. I shall a short ividing ing the ve, but ng this tted on arper's latter, ome as it once s going to take y after- quence pn, and I am st town among an ever it has ed with tre. It is the absence of this quiet look of home that is so striking to an Englishman when travelling on the continent. Here one has it in as great perfection as in England. On Saturday Dr. Murdock took me to see a cave in the neighbourhood, of some historical celebrity. At the time of the Restoration, the parliamentary committee which had sat in judgment on Charles I. were all compelled to flee the country, and, as was to be expecied, several of them joined the kindred spirits then residing in New England. Three of them found their way to New Haven — then, and till lately, the head quarters of Puritanism. Here, however, they were not permitted to rest, but were closely pursued by the officers of the English crown. To escape detection and apprehension, they resided for some time on the outskirts of New Haven, frequently concealing themselves in a cave on the summit of a hill about two miles from the city. Here they were pro- vided with food by the people of the country, who, I suppose, regarded *' that godly act," (as Cromwell calls the murder of Charles, in one of his hypocritical letters) with feelings of anything but disapprobation. These three were of course afterwards regarded as martyrs and saints likewise ; for pious democrats make pilgrimages to their graves, which are still shewn in the principal square of New Haven, which was formerly a cemetery. When the city grew all around this burial ground, most of the bodies interred there were removed, but with regard to these saints, it was decreed that no man should touch their bones. The names of these three worthies were Whalley, Goff, and Dixwell. The date upon the stones is still legible. I copied the dates and initials : 1678 1680 1688 E.W. M.G. J.D. There was a very amusing article in Blackwood some years ago, on ** the Cave of the Regicides," by an American friend of ours, who is not particularly fond of "popular institutions." On our return the Doctor pointed out to me the remains of I I h i f 66 LETTER VIII. a large dam formed by beavers, for the purpose of flooding the country above for their amphibious colony. On Sunday, I preached at St. Paul's in the morning, and at Trinity in the afternoon, and had consented to take a third sermon at a Mission Chapel in the neighbourhood. This last, however, I thought it better to decline doing. I leave New Haven to-day (Monday.) Hartford; Wednesday/, August 2Ath. This morning's paper announces the arrival of the Arabia^ which vessel, I believe, brings the Deputation. They will have had a very favourable passage. This day week my turn comes for sailing. I am happy to say that I am in very good spirits about my voyage, and fancy that I shall enjoy it rather than not. What makes me think this I know not ; certainly not past experience. I leave here to-morrow for Boston, and shall remain there quietly till I sail, with the exception of an excursion to Nahant, to spend a day with Longfellow. I must send this letter back to New York for the steamer at the end of the week ; it will thus reach Liverpool about five days before the America. If I pm able, I will write a letter during my voyage, and give you some account of my journey from Hartford to Boston, and of my stay at the latter place, and post it immediately on my arrival at Liverpool. Kind regards to all ; the same from A. C. Coxe. Boston, Friday Morning, It is just possible that this letter will not reach Europe much before the arrival of the America, as, in consequence of an accident to the Pacific^ the mails will be sent by a slower steamer. My last farewell from North America! a - V: JiETTER IX. Steamer /America, on the Atlantic, Off S.E. Cape of Nova Scotia ; Friday f Sept. 2nd, 1853. My Dear Warden, I must go back about a week and tell you how I spent my last days in North America. 15y the advice of my New Haven friends, I took the cars by the railway along the south coast of Connecticut, as far as the river junction. There a steamer was awaiting the arrival of the train, and we started immediately. The Connecticut river, throughout its entire course, is remarkable for its great beauty ; the scenery is of much the same character as that of the Severn or the Wye. We were fortunate also in having the most lovely weather. We reached Hartford about six, where I found Cleveland Coxa expecting me. Fortunately for me, Bishop Williams was at home during my stay at Hartford, and I was able to see a good deal of him. The day after my arrival we all went out to dine with Judge Huntingdon, which gave me an oppor- tunity of renewing my acquaintance with some of the fine distant views with which the rich valley of the Connecticut abounds. One of these, obtained from an eminence a mile or two from the city, stretches along the valley for many miles in each direction. The next day was spent in paying farewell visits to my Hartford friends. On Thursday morning the Bishop and Coxe accompanied me to the station, and I said good bye (somewhat mournfully) to two of my best friends in the New World. I I W f •> t »* ■ i ' 1.^.' f)8 LETTER IX, I had two or three hours to spare at Springfield, which gave me an opportunity of seeing what some people told me was the prettiest town in New England, (though I prefer New Haven,) and also the great U. S. Armoury and Arsenal. A note from Bishop Williams introduced me to Colonel Ripley, the Superintendent, who sent one of his subordinates, a very intelligent man, to shew me round the building. The ma- chinery is very wonderful, especially that for making the stocks of the muskets. Even the cavity for receiving the locks, irregular as it is in shape, is entirely formed by one machine, in a few seconds. The process of boring is also very curious. The stand of muskets (at this time 94,000 in num- ber) presents a strange appearance, reminding one forcibly of an immense organ. From the summit of the Clock Tower there is an extremely good view of the remarkable circular valley, in the very centre of which rises the hill upon which the armoury and arsenal are built. It appeared to me to be perfectly circular, and this rising ground quite central. The diameter of this valley must be nearly 30 miles, and it is only its great extent and remarkable regularity that prevent one's imagining oneself in the crater of some extinct volcano. At the station at Springfield I met my good friend Dr. Haight. who was on his way to Fredericton, via Boston. We pursued our journey together, and on our arrival at Boston, took up our quarters at Revere House. Next morning I went down to the harbour to see the brethren start for Fredericton, to be present at the consecration of the Cathedral. The party consisted of Bishop Southgate, Dr. Haight, Dr. Oliver, Mr. Lambert, (for whose duty I had made myself responsible,) and two or three others. They tried to persuade me to accompany them, but I had not much inclination to extend my wanderings, even had time allowed of my doing so. As I found that the comfortable boarding house at which I had stayed during my first visit to Boston was closed, I was glad to accept the invitation of Mr. Peter Wainwright (brother to the H i I .' BOSTONT. NAHANT. 69 Bishop) to be his guest for a day or two ; I had aheady accepted Mr. Levin's kind invitation to stay with him at his house at Brooklyn, and on Saturday 1 removed thither. On Sunday morning I had to walk into Boston, six miles, (there being no public conveyance on Sundays,) to take Mr. Lam-- bert's duty at the Navy Yard. After taking an early dinner with Mr. Buchanan, I went to the Church of the Advent, having exchanged afternoon duties with Mr. Stickney, who was supplying Bishop Southgate's place. I was rather tired when I reached Mr. Levin's house in the evening, but had,had nevertheless a very pleasant day. On Monday I started from Boston in a small steamer for Nahant, a watering place about fifteen miles off, to spend the day with Longfellow. As soon as I landed I heard myself addressed by name, and soon recognised a very pleasant family from Canada, at whose house I had spent a day some weeks before, while staying with Dr. Shelton. I had a good walk with them about the fine rocky coast before I went to Long- fellow's. In the afternoon Longfellow took me to Lynn, a few miles ofl^, to call upon ^Ir. Prescott, whom I was very desirous of seeing. Much to my disappointment, we found him confined to his room, with a sudden attack of rheu- matism, and therefore unable to see us. I returned to Boston late in the evening. Tuesday was spent I hardly know how ; partly in saying good bye to friends, partly in that state of fidget, which necessarily (one imagines) precedes a voyage or long journey. I forgot to mention that, a few days before, while staying with Mr. Wainwright, we went to see the great clipper ship which is being built at Boston, at present the largest in the world. She is 3G0 feet long, 53 broad, and of 4,000 tons burthen. But I hear there is a vessel now building at Pembroke which is much larger ; however, the American vessel is nearly finished, and will enjoy her dignity for a few months. On Wednesday morning, after collecting my packages at 70 LETTER IX. 'V ft I '.. ,. , Mr. Levin's house of business in Boston, I set off for tlie America, and was on board the steam tender at half-past ten. We were put on board the large steamer about half-past eleven. Just before one the mails were broui>;ht down, and we got under weigh, and after saluting the American flag, steamed out of the harbour. I got a view of Nahant in pass- ing. Longfellow and the Fullers had promised to look out for me. I was delighted to find that there were very few passengers ; not more than 70 in all, whereas the usual num- ber is about L50. In consequence of this I was able to get a state-room (^i.e. sleeping cabin) to myself, which is, of course, a very great comfort. I was also glad to find several agreeable people on board, among them a young officer, who came up to me and said he was sure we had met before. I could not remember his face, and at last he discovered that it was in Quebec Cathedral that we had met, or rather he had seen me there while taking part jn the service. I have found him in all ways a very agreeable person, and he has been my chief companion during the voyage. On Friday morning we reached Halifax, as early as three. As soon as we arrived Reginald Bullock came on board, and wanted me to go up to their house, about a mile from the wharf, and assured me that they had been sitting up all night to see me. However, nothing would induce me to go out of sight of the steamer, lest she should slip off sooner than I expected. All I dare do, was to go up to the post-office, with the mail agent, and there, much to my delight, I found a letter from Suffolk. I had had nothing from England, if I remember right, since the letters I found at Toronto. I need not, however, have been so much afraid of leaving the wharf, for we did not start till six, the steamer being detained to take on board no less a personage than his Excellency the Governor- General. His embarkation was rather a grand business. Salutes of seventeen guns each from the Citadel and Admiralty flag-ship, which were returned by the guns of the steamer. i: r i ATLANTIC. IKFSII COAST. 71 . This delay gave me an opportunity of seeing for the second time this nohle harhour. Until Sunday we had the sea tolerably calm, hut a breeze sprung up in the morning which made it rather doubtful whether we could have service. The captain asked me to officiate, and I managed to get through the morning service, omitting the Litany and Sermon. It was, however, very diffi- cult to stand. This was the last of the calm weather. On Monday the ship rolled and pitched very mu^h, and many of the passengers were missing from the saloon. On Monday morning I felt something of the mal de mer^ but soon recovered. Off Tory Island, North Coast of Ireland; Saturday Morning, Sept. Wth. We ought now to be within sight of land, but the day is rather hazy; in consequence of this ^ we shall probably keep well off the coast, and perhaps not see land till we enter the Mersey. Now one feels that the voyage is well nigh over, and a happy thought it certainly is. On the whole, we have had a favourable passage ; I have been much less unwell than on my former voyage, but this may be attributed perhaps to my being now in much better health. I am now going on deck, to endeavour to bless my eyes with the sight of land. Saturday, 3 p.m. About an hour ago we caught the first sight of land. It is really wonderful to see the accuracy with which these steam- vessels are navigated. When first the mist cleared away it revealed to us the Lighthouse on Tory Island directly ahead ; and this, after having seen nothing but sea and sky for eight days. What a joyful thing it is to see land again, something steady after so much tossing. We have just passed close abreast of the island ; the rocks are very bold and rugged, and f 'f' I I s 72 LETTER IX. the headlands about 300 feet hi^li. We passed between this ihhind and the mainland, (Sli^o, 1 think). We have had what 1 should consider a most favourable passage, but Mr. Peabody (an American millionaire on board) surprised me by telling me just now that it is the roughest of the eleven passages that he has made. The night has been most beautiful ; the effect of sailing close under the lofty indistinct head-lands of the North coast of Ireland is exceedingly grand. Sunday Morning. On coming on deck this morning, I found that we had just passed the Calf of Man (the extreme south cape) and in about two hours we sighted the coast of North Wales. We were obliged to lie to for nearly three hours outside the bar, waiting for the tide. Liverpool, Monday Morning. Although we got on shore about six in the evening, I cou) i not write that night, as I was anxious to go to evening service, and had to see about my luggage. Doubtless, before you re- ceive this, Levin will have found the America's arrival in the Times. I have just been to the post-office, and have found several letters ; yours, with four or five from the students, one from Curteis, and one from Suffolk, All contain good news, Deo Gratias. I hope to get off some time to-day, and to reach St. Augustine's on Thursday. r:! I.;' between this ave had what Mr. Peaboily le by telling ven passages jautiful ; the ead-lands of Morning, we had just md in about We were bar, waiting Morning. ing, I couli ling service, ibre jou re- •rival in the have found le students, )ntain good me to-day,