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IN irii-u' FiuiKn i;\ JOHN BATIROW, Esq., F.K.S., F.S.A. "And t.) spoake of no mliHr maltei- tlmn of the lioiipfull luissiifjc to tin' iiortli-wcst : lion ninny of tlm best sort of m.'ii liavo si't their whole iiiilevoms to prove a piissiitje ihnt wiiye, mid iiol only In eonfereiiee, 1ml also in wriiiii.,», and piililishin;; to the world; yea whai (irem Miiniiieso' money lialh heen spent alioiii thai aeiioii, as yoni- worshjii hath eoxllv e\|ieri.'i'"e ihere.itV." ' ' Kxlrtirl 0/ „ l.lln- fioiii Unmii In llir Viiild H'ois/i/'/iniW Mn.itn- ■rnliii U'nhfnihdlmr. K^ij^Ui'. ,iiir nj llic .liii'i'iiilrfiihiirrx lor Ihf ilixiuirrvii- nin iinsxini,- ta il„- nmlh-iri'Ht.- \\\k\.\ \ \ LONDON : PRINTKD FOR THE IIAKLUYT SOCIKTY. M.nc.r.uj, / ^ f'^ Kn!iiiiii,«.«)iiii«pii> 60!^1^,^.ij- LONDON : .UA'.IDS, 3~ UltEAT IJlKr.N bTl:l:l:T, LINCOLN':! INN. TO Tin: RKVEUKI) MKMOUY OF Till; (iO(»l) SIR CHARLES MALCOLM, Km., LATK VICE-ADMIKAL OF THE WHITE, A MAN UMVEKSALLY JI O X O U R K D AND IJELOVED, AND ONi; OF THE MOST ACTIVE MEMBERS OP THE HAKLTFYT SOCIETY, h (Tfjis Folumr IS HUMBLY DEDICATED BY HIS FAITHFUI, FRIEND, THE EDITOR. ll±.iii^iji^' gjanVTmaK^ I'lIM irAKI.rYT SOCIETY. •II! l!o|.|;i!ICK IMl'i:V Mil!. IIIM.N, ,;.,•>,>., Kli.s., i„it. M.m. lust. It., Hon. Mtiii. Iliip. A.:i.l. S,- Si. rriii-l.iir.'. A-0., .Vc. I'UKslhKsr. Till. KAiti. 1)1 1,1.1. i>.\ii;iti:. ) < .Ml. c. It. 1)1!1nk\vatl;k 1!i;tiii nl, li.N., c.b. | I{i;au-Au.miu.u. Siu l-ltAMis HKAl'l'OU'r, K.C.U. (HAltLES T. UEKE, Es^., Phil. V., E.S.A. lilt I.iUU) AI.lltEl) S. CIIL'KCIIILL. WILl.l.V.M DESBOKOI'GH COOLEY, Esq. BOLTON ColtNKY, Es^.., M.H.S.L. The Kioht Kev. I.oitl) UISHOl' cii' !>T. DAVJDS. The ViscoiST E.VSTNOl!. Siu UENKY KLI.IS, K.ll., I'.K.s. lacllAKlt 1-Olilx Ksg. JOHN FOKSTKH, Esq. K. W. GREY, lObii., M.P. THOMAS HOUUKIN, Esq,, M.O. JOHN WIXTEK JONES, Esq. biu CHAKLEs I.E.MON, B.mii., M.P P. LEVESQl'E, Esq. THOMAS KINDALL, Esq. Tilt Uu.N. llEMiV E. J. STANLEY. R. H. MAJOR, Esq., E.K.G.S., HnM,R.utv SttuE YlCL-l'lU.MDK.NiS. lAllV. f ■I, INTUODUCTOnV REMAHKS. In submittin*T to the members of the Ilakhiyt Society tlie followin<^ "Geography of Iliidson's Bay", — being tlie " Remarks of Captain William (-oats in many voyages to that locality", — I could wish tliat it had fallen into the hands of some one who, with greater ability and more leisure, wouhl do greater justice in editing the work, and seeing the manuscript through the press. I cannot, however, feel otherwise than flattered at being invited to edit this Journal, and the more so, as I consider it a mark of respect to the memory of my lamented father, who was the fountain-head of all modern arctic discovery, and whose name is inseparably connected with everything that relates to that interesting subject. On this account principally the task has been undertaken. I do not know that it is the bounden duty of an editor to explain why he considers that the work he undertakes to edit should be submitted to his readers, but he may at least crave the indulgence of the Hakluyt Society, in hoping that a subject which affords hi great delight, may 't!>^ II INTUOUUCTOUV in.MAKKS. without amusement or instruction to tliem ; and the remarks of Captain Coats seem to be, generally s])eak- ing, so judicious throughout, and contain so much valuable information, and such good sound sense, that I tvust the members of our. Society will hold me ex- cused for submitting them to their perusal. Captain Coats appears himself to have made many vo} ages into Hudson's Bay, and to have been twice shipwrecked in the ice on his voyage to the straits ; to which events he very concisely thus alludes : once, " in the year 1727, when near the meridian of Cape Farewell, when running through the ice with a small sail, when two pieces of ice shutt upon us, and sunk our shi}) ; and in 173(), being entangled in ice six leagues within Cape Resolution, when tlie ice shutt upon us, by the tides only (for it was dead calm), and crusiicd oui sides in, and sunk her in twenty minutes." There is an additional interest, I conceive, attached to the journal of Captain Coats, from the circum- stance of its having been draAvn up for the use of his sons ; and he concludes by saying, that if they are neglected by the Hudson's Bay Company, they are at liberty, and " it is his will and command that every part be made publick, for the use and benefit of man- kind." That his remarks should at some future period come to light, it is evident was the wish of Captain Coats, who states, that " he has committed them to writing, least they be buried with him, and posterity be depri> ed of what may one day be thought of some use." INTUODUCTOllY UKMAUKS. Ill The hydrograpliical parts, he says, are " so adjusted and with such care," that he " willingly suhmits them to the test of time"; and, although a century has elapsed since they were penned, his remarks will be found surprisingly accurate, and well de- serving of being perpetuated among the rare and unpublished voyages and travels which the Ilakluyt Society is engaged in preserving from the ravages of time. It will be seen, that in the first page of Captain Coats's manuscript, an allusion is made to the voyage of Captain Middleton to Hudson's Bay in 1741-2, when he discovered the "Wager lliver, and to an unhappy controversy which occurred between ^Ir. Dobbs, the projector of the voyage, and himself. Wishing to inform myself move particularly of the merits of that voyage, I have referred to the original documents in the archives of the Admiralty, a de- partment under my especial charge. As there is no published account of Captain Middleton's voyage, beyond the log of the Furnace^ of which I have not been able to find a copy extant, it has occurred to me that the i)ages of the present number of the Transactions of the Hakluyt Society would be a proper medium to place on record a few facts connected with the voyage of Middleton, extracted from the original manuscripts and log of the Furnace^ with one or two letters, hitherto unpublished, ad- dressed by Captain Middleton to the Board of Admi- ralty, together with his " observations w'hile in winter quarters in Churchill River," wliich 1 believe have ^ ^ ] IV I NTllOD U CTOU V KEM A UKS. never appeared in print. These will be fonnd in the Appendix, and they are of themselves documents con- taining much interesting matter. It was not till long after the return of Captain Middleton from his voyage for the discovery of a north-west passage through Hudson's Straits, that this unhappy controversy arose. Captain Middleton was charged by Mr. Dobbs wdth neglect, in having failed to explore the line of coast which afforded a probability of a passage to the north-west. The prin- cipal points at issue appear to have been in respect to the following discoveries of Middleton, viz., the AV^ager llivcr, lle])ulse Bay, and the Frozen Strait. As regards the first, Mr. Dobbs asserted that the tide came through the so-called river from the westward ; but this question was settled the following year by Captain Moore, who entirely confirmed Captain Mid- dleton's report. Repulse Bay (most appropriately named, for it sadly repulsed Captain Lyon in the Grqjer in the year 1824) was no less accurately laid down by Captain IMiddleton ; and of the Frozen Strait, Sir Edward Parry remarks : " Above all, the accuracy of Captain INliddleton is manifest upon the point most strenuously argued against him, for our subsequent experience has not left the smallest doubt of Repulse Bay and the northern part of the Wel- come being filled by a rapid tide flowing into it from the eastward, through the Frozen Strait. " It Avas here", observes vSir Edward Parry, " that Captain ]Middi"ton and Mr. Dobbs were most at issu(^ ; tlu> former asserting, that in his discovery of INTRODUCTORY REM.^RKS. the Frozen Strait/ through which lie actually saw the tide of flood coming into the Welcome, the question was solved in a manner highly conclusive to every unprejudiced mind ; while the latter, fully imi)ressed with a conviction, that the story of the Frozen Strait was all a chimera, as well as everything Captain INIiddleton had said concerning that part of the voy- age, confidently insisted on the probability of the tide finding its way through Wager River, or at least through some arm of the sea communicating with that inlet from the westward." On looking through the correspondence at the Admiralty, it is impossible not to be struck with the straight-forward manliness, candour, and honesty of purpose, exemplified by Captain Middleton through- out this trying business ; and no j)erson on perusing the documents can feel otherwise than convinced that it was a cruel attack made by INIr. Dobbs upon the reputation of a skilful and intrepid navigator and an honourable high-minded man. Had my lamented father seen these documents, I am convinced he would have arrived at the same conclusion as myself, and would have done that justice to Captain Middleton which I am proud of this opportunity of handing down to posterity. That the Lords of the Admiralty were perfectly satisfied with his conduct, there is every reason to suppose, as in the following year he was placed in command of the ^harlc sloop. ' " A Vindication of the comUict of Cajjtain Middleton", etc.; London, 171:5. Dobbs's " Ab^tnicl of Captain Middlcton'.s Joui- nal", etc. ; London, 1711. l 'HtflWAJW»f» VI INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. The difficulties that Captain INIiddk^toii had to contend with on liis voyage to Hudson's Bay, were great. Many of his men were pressed into the ser- vice (a press-warrant having been issued to him); and the description of characters he had to deal with may be judged of from one of his letters, which will be found in the Appendix ; yet, notwithstanding his ill- assorted crew, he did all that it was possible to accom- plish, and made many new discoveries, of which the Wager River (named after Sir Charles Wager, then first lord of the Admiralty), was perhaps not the least important. I hope to be excused for quoting from Captain INIiddleton's log a few extracts in the Appendix, which will serve to shew how they passed the winter in the ice a century ago, — very different indeed both in the manner and the results to that of the present time, when no less than seven of our ships in search of Sir John Franklin have gone through an arctic winter with the loss of only one man, who "died at his post" from fatigue, while dragging t'le sledges.^ ^ " Gkougk S. Malcolm, captain of the hold of the Resolute, a I'ltivc of Dundee, whose death was attributed to exhaustion and frostbite, brought on whilst labouring as captain of the sledge Excellent (virtually, it may be said), died at his post. He was a most valuable and much respected petty officer. His remrins are at rest on the north-east shore of Griffith Island." — Captain Austin's Dispatch, 12th of Auyust 1851. The Plover, too (under the command of Captain Moore), has passed three arctic winters within Bchring Straits, with the loss of only one man, who died of consumption, and is now passing a fourth winter. i\ Id a •c m Ls a INTRODlf'TOHY REMARKS. Ml T1>L' too liboral supply of spirits is ovidoutly a grievous error ; and we shall be curious to see the result of the voyage of Lady Franklin's little vessel, the Prince Albert, now passing an arctic winter, which has sailed upon temperance principles, under the command of Mr. Kennedy, accompanied by the brave young French officer, M. Bellot, and the faitliful John Hepburn. In submitting the remarks of Captain Coats, on his voyages to Hudson's Straits, it may not be con- sidered out of place to add a few words in respect to the first establishment of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, under whom he served for many years. The original ch«,-Ler granted to the Hudson's Bay Company remains undisturbed, although its validity has of late been much called in question. It was in the year 1668 that Prince Kupert sent an expedition to Hudson's Bay, under the commaiAl of Captain Zachariah Gillam, consisting of a small vessel called the Nonsuch. They wintered at Rupert's River, and established a fort called Fort Charles, which appears to have been the first English settlement in Hudson's Bay. A charter having been granted by King Charles, the " Governor and Company of Adventurers of Eng- land trading into Hudson's Bay", became the pos- sessors of the land. ]\Ir. Shillinglaw, in his recently piiblished Narra- tive of Arctic Discovery (a work carefully compiled and of much merit), states '' that this cliarter granted to them and their successors the sole trade and com- I K VI 11 INTRODUfTOKY HFMARKS, mcrce to Hudson's Bay and Straits, witli torritoviul rights and jurisdiction over all the land and countries on the coasts and confines of the same, which v^^ere not actually possessed by the subjects of any other Christian prince or state, to be reckoned and reputed as one of the British plantations or colonies in America, under the name of Rupert's Land." Another clever little work, entitled an Examination of the Charter and Proceedings of the Hudson s Baj/ Company^ tvith reference to the Grant of Vancouver s Island (published in 1849, by Mr. Fitzgerald), con- tains a minute account of the origin and present position of the Company. To this work I would refer all who wish to investigate the history of their settlements. It contains matter of much serious reflection. " There is little doubt," as Mr. Fitzgerald observes, " that France laid claim to the Hudson's Bay terri- tories as early as the year 1598, when letters patent were granted by Henry IV of France to Signer de la Hoche, appointing him lieutenant-governor over the countries of Canada, Hochelaga, Labrador, and the river of the great Bay of Norrembegne, etc. ; and that the country was, in fact, at one time actually occupied by the French. " The French Fur Company of Quebec, established forty years before the Hudson's Bay Company, aijpear to have traversed the whole of the country which the Hudson's Bay Company now claim. For many years, when the English Company never ventured to leave the shores of the Bay, when the Avhole of their esta- INTIlODrCTOUY REMARKS. IX I'S, ive blislmiont consisted of four or five insignificant forts on its shores, tlie voyagers of the French Company were traversing the whole of the countrv north-west of the Canadas, as far, it is said, as Saskatchewan viver. jSIr. Fitzgerakl' speaks with much warmth of the miserable state of thraldom in which the Indian ])opulation has been kept, under the rule of the Com- Xiany. " Civilization has been to them, not the sun that warms, but the lightning that scorches ; and under its influence, instead of growing and advancing in the scale of humanity, the North American Indipii seems to have shrivelled still farther into the very decrepitude of barbarism." It is to be feared that this may be the case with some of these tribes ; the Cliippeways, for instance, as mentioned by Sir John Isichardsoxi ; but it certainly is very far from the case with otlier tribes more immediately under their control ; and it is but fair to the Company to quote tlie Crees, who, as Sir John Richardson observes, have been " for more than twenty-six years under the undivided control and paternal government of the Hudson's Bay Company, and arc wholly dependant upon them for annnunition, European clothing, and otlier things, which have become necessaries. No spirituous liquors are distributed to them ; and school- masters and missionaries are encouraged and aided by the Company to introduce among them the ele- ments of religion and civilization. One village has :a- ' Fitzgerald's Hudson's Bay Company. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. been established near the depot at Norway House, and another at the Pas on the Suskatchewan, each liaving a church and school-house, and a considerable space of cultivated ground. The conduct of tlic people is quiet and inoffensive. AVar is unknown in the Cree district ; and the Company's officers find little difficulty in hiring the young men as occasional labourers."^ It will not be uninteresting to the readers of this volume to know that the manuscript of " Captain Coats's Remarks" is the property of Sir Edward Parry, who has had it in his possession for many years, and has obligingly allowed the Society to publish its contents. Of the writer of the remarks, the editor can learn but little ; nothing, in fact, is now known of Captain Coats, except that he was in the Company's service as commander of one or other of their ships from 1727 to 1751. His journal, while in command of the King George^ in the latter year, is the only memorial of him that is to be found at the Hudson's Bay House. That voyage, it appears, was made to Fort Richmond, on the eastern side of Hudson's Bay ; but the journal, I learn, contains nothing beyond the usual occurrences of such voyages. J. B. ' Sir Jolin Richardson's Journal of a Boat Voyage through Rupert's Land. THK GFX)GRAPIIY OF III DSON BAY ih l\ Has not been attempted by any person that I know of. The voyages of Hudson,' James/ Fox/ Button/ and others, were directed to pcrticuhir purposes ; and what has jiast between Mr. Dobbs' and C. Middleton," is so full of argument and dispute, that the real geography is neglected — who by atoo eager pursute after truth have out run it, and left it behind — who by atoo ernest contention about it, have rendred it more doubtfidl. Notwithstanding there are in that abun- ^ Hudson's A';'5< voyage for the discovery of the north-west passage was undertaken in the year KioT. Sir John Barrow, in his " Chronological History of Arctic Regions", speaks of him as an experienced and intrepid seaman, well skilled in the theory and practice of navigation, and in the use of nautical instru- ments. " It deserves to be remarked," he says, " that he was the first of the northern navigators, and probably the first Englishman, who made observations on the inclination, or dip of the needle." On this voyage he proceeded north between the coast of Iceland and the east coast of Greenland, and attained the latitude of about 8i°. His second voyage was in the year l(j(l8, when he endeavoured to penetrate between Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla. His third, in 160!), upon which occasion he doubled the North Cape, but shortly returned towards Newfoundland, and down the cc.st of America. Hudsou's/o!«/'/A voyage was in IfilO, which was unhappily the last made by this celebrated navigator, on which he discovered the Straits and Bay which bear his name, and which will for ever hand it down to posterity. His crew mutinied, and the captain, his son, and seven men, were cast adrift in a boat amongst the ice, and perished. ^ In 1631, Captain James proceeded by Hudson's Bay in search of the north-west passage, and was compelled to winter. His crew under- went great sufferings and privations ; and the author of the Chronolo- (ii;n(;it vniv oi iudson hay. danrc of nibbngo and inipcvtlnancc,' some Htlc iiiattors to our i)iiri)()s(', what remains of the former worthys, has l)een so curtaik'd and mutihited, that very little can bee draAvn from thence. What ^Ir. D()hl).s has thought fitt to call a (liscription of ^T .,a's Bay, is so erronius, so superficial, and so trifling, ..imost every circumstance. So contrary to the experience and concurrent testimony of every person who have resided in that country, or of those A\ ho have used it any considerable time, that when it first gical History says, that the accounts of his voya benefitt of others and salvation and wclUiue of themselves. I say if such can be (iKtXiltAI'll V (»!• lirnsON HAY found, and wliiit is said here, should roii/o any person to tliis task, it will more then conipcnsitc the litle share I have in it. However, such as it is, you are WH'lIeonie to it ; would it were better. I am conscious I have wrote both too much and too little to the purpose, and too much beside, in so wide a ficdd, on so fertile a subject. The hydroi^raphy is adjusted with the greatest care from Grimington's' and my own experience. AV^hat relates to the interior parts are collected from such persons as none that knew them woidd dispute their candour and capacity, and which alone are my principal motives to connnit these r(>marks to writing, least they be buried with me, and posterity be deprived of what may one day be thought of some use. The Honourable Hudson's Bay Ccnnpany, by royall ehartcn", were invested with all the lands and seas within the Streights of Hudson and Bay adjacent, by gift and grant to them and their successors, with the sole property of trade, and with such power and privileges as was never caled in question till very lately, and wdiich has been con- firmed in parliment more than once. And who have alv/ays resided in London, the metropolis of Great Britten, from whence we sail on the entrence of this vovasre. As all ships are bound to take pilotts from hence to the Downs, or to Orfordness, this part is sufficiently token care of, and the draugts of the channile of England is enough. I shall begin at Orfordness.'- Orkn<>y islands are a cluster of islands so high and bold, ^ The editor can trace no clue to this person. Upon incjuiry at the Hudson's Bay House, he learns that " no officer of the name of Grimiug- ton appears to have been in the Company's service." ^ Here follow sailing directions of no interest or value, along the east coast of England, passing Flamljorough Head, to Euchauness and to the Orkneys. GF,()GR\!'IIY OK III 1)S()N HAY, and the scii s(» (U'jip, aiul washed with so vioh-ut u tidr, that tlic iKivitjatiou tliroiiuli these islands has been in a fjjreat measure disus(>d (except by persons very well acquainted) uutill very lately ; add to these the cloudy tenipestious wea- ther, M'hich are an appendaj^^e to all cape lands, which have not nu)re influence over the direction of the tides in their eomses than they have in the direction of the winds, which do not retard nor accelerate the tides more than tlu' tops of those mountains reflect and reverberate the winds in the direction of their courses;' these imbarrissments has hitherto deterred many ships from ^oinpths of water, the ])hices of anchor ground, and how to use or avoid the direct tides, or to back a ship up on the counter tides, with such care and circumspection, and so plain and practicable to the meanest understanding, that it is now not only a safe but most comodius navigation. What I have to oifer is in your approach to these islands ; and before you come within the verge of these tides, you ought to be well assured of the land at the distance of four or five leagues (come not near them in a fogg or dark night). You are carefully to avoid the indraughts of those wide mouthed Friths of Pictland,' AMstra, and adjacent to North Ronalsha, at and near which places the ocean tides falls into them with asstonishing force, where the small islands, rocks, and points, which obstruct the force and direction of these furious tides, revers a considerable part of those streams. These counter tides meeting, and in some places joyning those faint streams from the small opnings, are dilated in all directions, into bays, coves, and small outletts, to maintain that equilibrum so naturall to all fluid bodies ; but these nicietys are so well defined by that gentleman, that I can ad nothing to his description. Iloyhead, from whence most ships take their departure, is a promontiuy of a stupendious height, and may be seen upwards of twenty leagues ; is in latitude, 58" 50' N. ;- lon- gitude, west from London, 4° 20' W. ; and is a p(>ndent mountain of a reddish coulor, and has thirty fatham water very near its foot. the ti'los, etc., iutcrspcriicd with suitable directions for sailors." A copy of this work is in tlie nydrogra])hical Do2)artuient of the Adiuiralty. ^ Pentland. ^ The hititudes given will generally hd found surprisingly accurate, coiisiilcri)ig the period at which Captain Coats' remarks are written, — the longitudes, of course, less so. I GT'OGTlAniY OF HUDSON 11 AY. 7 Wcstwarde, as you sail you meet with two islands calcd iu the mapps Solcsskcry, but we name them with others the Stack and Skerry, W. ^ S., eleven leaf^ues from Hoyhead ; the Stack is pritty high and white with fowls' dung, and the Skerry is a low flatt island, N.E. j X., three miles asunder, from whence the Orkney people once a year s^o a seal catch- ing, and to the Stack for eggs, Avhere is vast quantities. 13arra and Rona, are two islands twenty-six leagues from Hoy, W. I N., in latitude 59" 05' X., are high bold land, and arc east and west five miles asunder ; the eastermost, or Barra, is inhabittcd, and in one appcarence not unlike a whale uppon the water, with a great diclivity in the middle, where is said to be a small harbour. St. Kilday are four islands more to westward, in latitude 58° 10' X. ; and longitude, Avest from Hoy head, 5° 30' W. ; and these are high bold land, the westermost of a pyramidal form like a sugar loafF. llokel' is a solitary island, in latitude 57'^ 38' X. ; longi- tude, west from Hoy head, 10° 30' W. Rokele is a piramid not unlike the Stack, but higher and bigger, and white from the same cause ; and I had no ground at eighty fatham on the X.W. side, at the distance of a mih; and a half, and I made E. 10° X. erly from this rock to Hoy heade. Cape Wrathe or Farro head, the north-west promontary of Scotland, lyes twenty-one leagues W.S.W. from Hoy head, in latitude 58° 30' X. To the eastward, and also to the south- ward, are moiuitains of an astonishing height, and the sides near this cape are greatly accelerated ; it bears south-west by south from the eastern Barrow, and five miles more northerly than Gallon head and the Isle of Dunibegg, the northern ^ This may ho noticed uh .a rcinarkahle instance of Captain Coats' accuracy, llokol (Rockall) is a small rock in tho Atlantic, well known to navigators, in latitude .17° '.W N., longitude 13° 41' W., as deter- mined hy Captain Vidal, R.N., who surveyed it in 18,31. ---.-^--^smmaimf 8 OKOfiRATIIY or IUDSON IVVY. point of TiOwis Island, and to eastward forty-two uiilrs ; lati- tude 58° 25' N., and in longitude west from ]Ioy head thirty-four leagues, or 3° 15' W.; or Gallen head, Dunibegg, and the Butt of Lewis, for by all these names it is desincd. Flanncn Islands ar(> a small cluster of isles, thirty-four miles to westward of Dunibegg, and eleven to southward, latitude 58° 14' X. ; which in cloudy weathc^r I have more than once taken for St. Kilday's islands, but can be of no ill consequences, the islands and highlands are so bold and high. At twenty leagues distance, to westward of St. Kilday, you have soundings from ninety to forty fathom. AVith these helps and these situations, how facile and easy is it. Coming in for the land from the Western Ocean, I came out of the North Sea sumwhat abruptly into the ocean, lead by my subject, insensible being. I woidd give you the lands and islands togeather in the trackt of foreign ships ; but if you arc going to southward through the highlands to Ireland or the western ports of Brittain, the islands arc innumerable, the tides arc so powcrfull and so distracted, that none but a person sufficiently acquainted are capible to take charge of a ship. An therefore crave leave, before I take my departure, to inform my reader that in the Bay and Frith of Murray are two principle harbours, at Cromertic and Channery, near the Codd, fitt for any ships to put into, and severall small places on either shore, not worth and beside oiu' purpose. Orkney Islands abounds -with so many fine roads and safe harbours, that it may not improperly be calcd a port of har- bours sufficiente to shelter and secure all the ships of the known Avorld, and is so coinccliusly situated for the northern navigation, that I am surprized it has not been used more in the warr, more esspecially Avitli any of the southern as well as northern powers of Europe. By its situation is a natural frontier to the Brittish domi- nions, and is so conveniently situated to cover those parts ^ lil to safe liiir- tho icrn |c in Nvcll Inu- la vts 11 \ lil OEor.r.vPTrv ov ht-dsox hay. 9 with a small force, that 1 am astonish't the government never establish't a rcnclivouz at these ishmds, when three or four ships stationed there arc capiblc to give convoy to every ship that goes that way to auw and influence that restless part of the king's dominions, and he always within a day's sail of her station. These reasons induced mc to lay this matter bc^fore a pub- lick board, who were so well satisfied that they immediat(>ly made a contract to victuall his majesties navy at this place ; but the peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748, rendred this useless. But as we seamen say, 'tis good policy in a calm to provide for a storm, so it Mould be a good prec.m- tion for the government to remove those objections Avhich at pres(>nt make it very (at least expensive) but almost im- practicable. Orkney, by its situation, is capible to shutt up all the ports of the Baltic, and Holland, and Norway, save two places, and c'cn those may be occupied with precariousness and hazard. And our navy never above half a days sail from her rendivouz. As this is no extravigant supposition, I assert it may be done with more facility than to shutt up the streights of Dover, and with less hazard and danger to our heavy ships (for in these seas we have no want of water) ; we are scarce fifty leagues from the coast of Norway to Yell, and Unst, and the Skerry s, that not a boat can pass without our knowledg(\ And while the nation has a Hawk, or Anson, or a Warren, Ave have but to see and conquo]-. And I am so convinced of the practableness of this measure^ that I flatter myself it Avill one day be put in practise ; for I have no end to serve, no intrcst to cultivate, and Avliich are the pure dictates of my own (experience comitted to Avriting, as all my other rcMuarks are, as my real stmtimeuts, for the use of my sons. These sentiments, T must confess, has given me, during I r' 10 (ii:()(i|{A'MV (»F III DSON \\\^ \\\o wiw, sonic iiiH'Msincss, lo (tl)scrvr ■\vliiit lii^li urctnlnnis (oi- !issm;ni wind, as tli(> hills turn tluMu in all directions, and yon sliould loss \\\v tK-ncfitt of hacking on the tide in thos(^ counter currents, you iwv drov(^ to westward and eastward alternately, without being able to do one usefull or prudent thing without a stout bn^^zc of wind,— -a tickle lady that no "well-bred seaman will trust too. And tluM'eforc, as we have gone Avith convoy all tbe Avarr, we have not scruples to go with. I'orty guns ships through thos(^ sounds only prcicrabh' to any other. lieiug now to tak(^ my (l(>parture in ord(>r to sail across the o'(\in to Hudson's Streights, we confine our selves to the parallels of latit .des (50°, 55)°, r)?s°, 57°, 5()°, indiflen^ntly, as the w ind and wcatluM- jircsents, in wliich yw. find Ji languid c»irr(Mit sett to southward, and inclined to Avestwaid, of six, (Mght, or nini' mil(> i; day, to the l-V of longitude west from Lon(h>n, at and near tlu> meridian of Capo Farewell, whose h i] S0111(> irioiis 11 tin; wind, loss Mils, lout lout will SIX, Voin [lose 1 1 1 i (iV.oanwMY or iiidson hay. 11 Ifititiulc, l>y iiiimy ol)scrv;\(ions, is 50" 10' N.;' ficMii tluticc to (?!!))(• Warwick, oil tlio south part of llcsolntioii Tics, in latitude, hy observation, Ol" 21' N., is V.f W \V. lan-i- tilde, together is, f'roni 1/oiidon to Hesolution on the north entrance, (54° 'MY \V. \Vr tnnkc this longitude home always, hut seldom mak(; above (i'i° '}()' \V., outward bound, which I always attributed to tin; ('urrent aforesaid. When we approach the meridian of (y'ape Farewell, we • la fiKOOKAPIlY OF HUDSON BAY. comes quite insinsiblc ; likewise, if you should be delayed any extraordinary time near the coast of Labrodore, or longer in crossinjT from Cape Farewell to Resolution, in both cases you meet a southerly current, of at least ten mile a day ; and near that coast, I am of opinion, that current dilates itself to eastward (this remark was confirmed in 1749, of four miles and a half a day). Vou are carefully to avoid being entangled in ice before you have enter'd Hudson's Streight. Ice without is so hardned and Avash'd, that it becomes like solid stone ; and as the sea is more open, so vou have a swell runs many miles into it ; add to this the tides and currents, which keep it in perpetual motion, that make it very dangerous to hazard a ship amongst it, before yon get into the streights at least twelve or fifteen leagues. This experience I boiight very dear, for in the year 1727, near the meridian of Cape Fare- Avell, we were worming through ice with a small sail, when two pieces of ice shutt uppon us, and sunk our ship : and in the year 1730, being entangled in ice six leagues within the Cape Resolution, the ice shutt upon us by the sides only (for it was dead calm at the time), and crush'd our sides in, and sunk her in twenty minutes, notwithstanding all our endea- vours. But as to the method and manner in working amongst ice, I have spoke so largly to it in another place, that I shall refer you to that description.' ' Sir Edward Parry, in his " Journal of a second voyage tor t!ie dis- covery of a north-west jiassage in the years 1821-3," makes the following observations on entering the straits, coinciding remarkably with those of Captain Coa*-i : — "The effects to be apprehended from exposure to the swell of the main ocean c nstitute the peculiar danger of first entering the ice about the mouth of Hudson's Straits, which is completely open to the influence of the whole Atlantic. A very inconsiderable quantity of loose ice is sufficient to shelter a ship from the sea, provided it be closely packed ; but when the masses are separated by wind or tide, so as to admit the swell, the concussions soon become too violent for a shi}), strengthened in the ordinary way, to withstand for any length of time. On this account it is |)rudcnt not to enter the ice wilhout a fair prosjtect of getting seven or eight leagues within the margin." f ^ w-^ > GEOGRAPHY OF HUDSON BAY. 13 (lis- [t be |c, so ship, liiuc. Liect / ) i Hudson's Strciti^hts is a passajj^c of twelve leagties wide at th(; moutli, formed bv a cluster of islands, in latitude CO' 45' N.; ealed ]kitton's lies and Resolution lies, before described as the streiglits, dilates its self immediately on tbo north side to northward, so on the south side it hold on near that parralel about twenty leaujues, and then turns round Amo- comancka to southward, and, there forms a great bay of fifty leagues from east to west. Near seventy leagues up the sea turns short up to the northward on the south side and makes a second narrow of seventeen leagues Avidc, near Savage; Point, on the north shore, from whence both shores dilate theraselves to wcst- Avard, and the north side declines more northerly up to Cape Diggs, a cluster of isles on the south side ; latitude (52° 40' N. ; over against which, on the north side, is a passage of at least twenty-five leagues, where you enter the strcights from Hudson's Bay from the westward. As the tides enter these streiglits from the eastward, so it is most furious about that narrow entrence, but is greatly abated when it comes to be dilated in that great bay to southward ; but in the second narrow it is accumilated, and is so increased, that it is very troublesome all the way to Cape Diggs, and over to the island of INIansfield,' where it becomes insinsible ; it rises near thirty foot on an ordinary si)ring tide all along the streights, but gradually decreases as you go to westward ; and the time of full sea on the full and change is from seven o'clock at Resolution to eleven o'clock at Cape Diggs, and the times and distances corresponds so stricktly in all the intermediate places, that I was asstoni ht when I came to consider them, as I have the flowings at many places to compare with. I dont recollect an instance of the like in the geography of the known world. On both sides is lined in most places with numberless nameless islands, Avliere doubtless is many fin(> harbours ; tuose of ' >'u\v citllc'l .M:iii!3cll IsIuikI. 14 GEOGRAniY OF IIT'DSON HAY. ( III! M ! ' * i note, and which we are hotter acquainted with, after you pass'd into the streiglits ahove IJutton's Islands, four priu- ciplc in numher, hut any lesser a high l)old l;vu(l, hut wash'd hy a violent tide, as is Resolution on the northern side. Amocomanko,' a large hold island on the south side, ahout twenty leagues to westAvard of IJutton's lies, lyes near a proniontary,' which makes one side of the hay caled Hope, advanced where the coast dilate to southward. I'lain and Grass Islands.^ These are two solitary lies which ly heforc that great bay at some distance from the main, hut as we seldom go or come on that side of the streiglits, I shall haisten to the north shore. Lower Savage Islands, are three larger, and many lesser, ahout thirteen leagues ahove the Cape of Resolution, W.N.W. ^ N., nearest eastermost of which, in latitude 62° 05' N. Nix Compestress, or the snowy land, is twenty-eight leagues from the Cape of Resolution. Here the tides are more still and quiet, and not so rude or troublesome as lower doAvn, when incumbcrd with ice. Near this place is an iland neat, caled Sadie Back, near the shore, which we have thought may he a good harbour, but never was experienced. Middle Savage islands are a cluster of islands forty-two leagues from the Cai)e of Resolution, W.N.W., and ly of from the main six or seven mile, — affords a fine sound be- tween those and the land, but never experienced, for reasons best known to the honourable Hudson's Bay Company. Ice Cove is a most safe harbour, nine leagues to the W.N.W. of the Great ^Middle Savage island, and good anchor ground, where I sheltered our ship from ice when I was hard press't ; it floAved (nine o'clock) full and change, and * CiiUod Akpatok Islaiul in the ju'csoiU cluirts. ^ Hay of llojxj's AdvaiK'O. ^ ^iou callud (ii'ooii It^laiuLs. '• iS r.KOfillAPTIY OF HUDSON HAY. 15 rose tw'cuty-oii^lit foot water ; 'tis barren and stonoy, scarce any green tliinj^ throws iippon the islands. A\'liere Ave lay we had many irs(piemows' came and traded witli us, which might be improved if tlie company thought fitt. f iray Goose island, Avitliin which is fine anchor ground, and you ly covcr'd ironi all wind ; but the tides both Avays carry the ice through, which is the reason why T think Ice Cove i)referable, being is all ways still : and this island is about half way to Ice Cove from ■Middle Savage isles. North Bay, or the White Streights. The shore, a little to westAvard of Ice Cove, declines to northward, and forms this bay or mouth of this streight, by op'ing a passage to northward of Savage Point of at least seven leagues Avide, and so extends it self to AvcstAvard nearly parrellel to Hudson's Streights. White Streights has sundry i'sles lye in the entrilce from both sides, Avhich do occupie so great a part of the channile that the tides arc greatly accelerated. This streights, above thirty leagues from SaA'agc Point, appears through some scattered i'sles avc perceived on the north shore, Avhere avo found so strong an indraught that Avitli some difficultv Ave got clear : one of our ships Avas so entangled, that it cost him eight or ten days in some extreanuty Avith ice and land, before he got out. Thus, Avhile the sea Avas covered Avith ice at both places, Ave could define the sea, Avhich expanded itself, out of sight to the northAvard, and to all appearance as Avide as Hudson's Streights : Ave had a regular ebb and flood and stout tide, and floAvs nine and a half hours fall and change. We lay inclosed in ice some fourteen days, that our men went every day on the mountains to look for Avater, Avho constantly affirmed that this ncAV streight Avas as boundless as the other. I the rather call it a straight, for thi; reason : Avas it a bay 1 The common api)olliition for the I']s(iuiiuaux amongst all the whalers of the present clay is " Huskies". hff^ 1 1; 16 fiKOfiUArHY OF HIDSON HVY. V II only, the tides would be retarded, not accelerated, as we found by experience ; and the ice as rude and troublesome as in any part of streiglits ; and it abounds more with i'les of ice than in other places, insomuch that it 'has been said all our i'les of ice come from this streif>ht. Savage Point, from what has been said, appears to be a large island, Avith those we call the Upper Savage Islands, forms a promontory. We steer for both ways, and where Hudson's Streights dilate to northward in going up, as it declines more to eastward in going down, whose latitude by many observations Gti° 1^0' N. It is west, from the Cape of Resolution, sixty-three leagues. It is east, from the east end of Cape Charles, thirty-two leagues. It is east from Cape Diggs sixty-nine league's. I'ts name is disputed, which is all I have to add : some call it God's ^Mercys : and the Savages islands is farther to east Avard ; for my oAvn part, this is the name I received fr(mi my predecessors, and until I have reason to alter it shall dis- tinguish it by that name. Prince Henrys Foreland is high mountain, oucr against Savage Point, on the south, or Labrodore, at the distance of seventeen leagues from Avhich the land falls away both to southward and northward ; 'tis lined Avith numberless name- less islands and very rocky, and very deep Avater near the shore. False Charles is a promontary, tAventy-one leagues to Avest- Avard of Savage point, and near the same latitude (62° 20' N.), nine leagues to eastAvard of Cape Charles. This land we liaA'e, in very hazy Avethcr, taken to be Cape Charles some times, from its likeness, — AA^hence its name. By another minute, the entrance into Hudson's Streights is some tAvelve leagues Avidc over to Buttons I'les, Avhich are four in number, large, and divers small ones in the skirts and borders of the Labradore, near Cape Chidley, in latitude 60° 50' N., and bears from the south point of the I'le of oKOfJiiAi'nY OF innsoN nw. r ape of to ulc of llcsoliition, called t'apc \\'ar\vick,' S.K. by S., and are four miles distant from Cape ChidU y ; after you pass into the strei_t;hts about thirty leagues, it dilates, to southward, into a iireat bay fifty leaq-ues wide : but as our uaviuratiou calls us to northward on two occasions, I shall only remark that about • leagues uj), the shorc^ turns short up to north- ward, and forms a second narrow, about sixteen or seventeen leagues M'i(l(% and so continues gradually widcMiing up to Cape Charles, -which is ninety-six leagues to westward of Resolution, and is in (5;^° 55' N. latitude, over against which the streights is twenty leagues wide ; beyond this, and up to Cape Diggs, or Digg's I'les, thirty-two leagues, to westward of Cajie Charles, knth of the island included ; makes the whole lentil of the streights, from the castermost part of the I'les of Resolution to the westermost I'le of Diggs, a hundred and thirty-two leagues, whose h'.titude is G2° 40' N. ; differ- ence of longitude, 14° 0'. And no^v give me leayc to expatiate a litle nppon the great influence this position of the streights has uppon the tides, where the shores accmnilate and gather their streams in order to discharge them more forcibly into the mouth of the streights, Avhicli is again reiterated and gathered, as in a bagg, in that great bay to southward, in order to restore that languar it would sufl'ar in passing that great distance from the ocean ; and thus made the agent of the distruction and disolution of those tremcndious bodys of ice, the seas disin- cumbred, and the seasons alternately restored. This phenomenon appears to mo so providential, thiit I cannot conceive how this could have been effected without this extrodinary power and force of the tides, considering what prodigious floats of ice are all the sununer in these streights, so compact and solid, and made for duration, which, like a common sewer, receives it from all tlu^ fuers and bays ' Now Cidlcil Ilatton's Ileiulland. ^ Left blank in the niannsoiint (sav sixty). u 18 OWXillAPirY (»l m DSON HAY. • If < i n as fast as it is detached by the land-waters aiul dissolved snow. I must remark that the northern side of streit^hts and northern ])arts of the bay, are generally cleared of ice first ; but whether it is owing to more frequent northerly winds in the spring of the year, or a greater quantity of snow, or to an attraction of the luminaries, or all together, this is certain, there is a draining current always to southward, althougli the winds sometimes produce a contrary effect. The strange and powerful! effects of the ice is so inter- woven with those violent tides you meet with in your ai)i)roach to lludsons Streights, that 'tis not possible to define one without exphuning the other, and therefore I judge it neces- sary to observe the particulars following, viz. : After your ship is well fitted with stores and provisions, according to your number of men, you must add about one fourth more than the iissial allowance in other voyages, pro- vide a stock of ice geer, viz., six ice hooks for mooring, and four or six lesser ones for warphig, which will be found extremely usefull ; four ice ropes of thirty or forty fathom each, your buoy ropes, and four Avhalc lines of ~^ inches, with what helps may be made beside ; twelve ice poles, twelve handspikes extrodinary, one dozen long-mouthed wood axes, two or three broad-mouthed chizzells fitted on poles, six ooat hooks. I have made upwards of twenty voyages without a small ice-boat, yet 1 do not deny the use of them. Thus equiped, you arc to sail from England by the 20th of May, in order to be at the mouth of Hudsons Streights by the 6th of July, a few days sooner or later, as the season will admit. I must take notice, that on the 3rd of July in the year 1786, we found the ice so large in the entrance, that, being inclosed, we had our ship crushed to pieces ; and in the year 1739 we attempted to enter the streights six times bet^ "cen the 1st of Julv and the li^th, and could not cfFrct i OF.OrjRAPHY OF HIDSON HAY. 19 solved ts aiul c first ; iiuls in , or to ;ertaiu, thougli intcr- iproacli ue one ; ncces- visions, out one OS, pro- ng, and found fathom inches, poles, liouthed tted on twenty the use 10 20th lits by on will in the that, and in c times t cffrct e it, so compact and close a body of ice lay across the entrance, which obliged us to stand out to sea. "I'is triu^ some- times, in favourable seasons, we have entrcd the streights sooner. I remember once we got in by the JiOth of June, and got up, with great laboiir, :'.!)Out sixty leagues ; but there we found such banks and walls of ice from side to side, that we did litle or nothing untill the J^Otii July ; and therefore you sec 'tis to litle purpose to be there sooner, and your hazard is much greater, being the ice is more compact, much larger, and not so mashed and shattered ; and 'tis incredible what an alteration the spring tides in the beginning of July makes amongst the ice in the mouth of the streights, and what immense bodys it will shatter and breek in shivers, which before was dreadful to look at when agitated and put into motion by those furious tides, which are so distracted and cut by those heavy sands of ice which makes them boyl up in cdies and whirlpooles in a most amazing manner, Avhich you arc particularly and carefully to attend too ; and if you are doubtfull of being intangled before you can get in at least fifteen leagues, and more esspecially o/ the approach of the springs, you are to forbear, and make it a rule to stand out to sea clear of that indraught. Further up the streights we find tho ice not so rude, with- out you are near the shore, or near the i'les of ice, untill you are half way up the streights ; and beyond that, to Cape Diggs, in the second narrows, uppon the turns of the tides, and more esspecially on the springs tides, every where the ice is rude and troublesome, and very dangerous. You must constantly watch its motion, which is strangely affected by the different setts of the tide, and sudden gushes wldch boils through the different rands, and different sjiecies ox ice (if I may be allowed the expression), to explain my meaning herein, it may not improperly be divided into three speices of ice, viz. : First, is those i'les of ice, are such immense bodys, aie so -3L I 20 GEOOKAl'lIY OF HUDSON BAY. i i [ ! 1 ^ '. ( I i deep ininicrsed in the water, below the eurrent oi the tides, and arc so fixed like land, without motion, or what is scarce sensible. Second, it is Avhat is called large, heavy, solid ice, and is that specie we must dread to fall amongst. This ice lyes very deep in the water, and feels the full force and power of the tides ; these plough and smash the small ice in so an amazing manner, as if God had endowed them with a furious spirit of perdition ; and these are so rent and shattered them- selves, when they are hurled against those i'les of ice, or one another, as if they strove which should be first disolved.' Third, the small ice is, as it were, the sport of the other two specie of ice, and is much more affected by the Avinds than by the tides ; and this specie is by much the greatest quantity. In and amongst this we always endeavour to shelter our ships, where we ly easy, and quiet, and safe, and undisturbed ; but only when we drive near one or other of tlie other two species of ice, you observe a discomposure, a justling, clashing, and running one against another, as I before mentioned. This is very evident, Avhether you see them or not, as we have abundance of dark foggy wether. Thus you see, my sons, hoAv signally providentialy God has ordered the different seasons ; with how small an instru- ment he can compass his intentions. That second specie of ice which is so compact and hard, and to all appearance made for duration, no Portland stone seemingly harder, yet ^ Purohas, who " out of a cliaos of confused intelligences", framed what he calls " his Pilgrimes", thus dilates upon the same subject: — " Nor the unequall seas, which might amaze the hearer, and aniatc the beholder, wlice the Tritons and Xeptune's :5elfe would ([uake with chill- ing I'care, to l)chold such monstrous icie ilands, renting themselves Avith terrour of their owne massiness, and disdayning otherwise both the sea's sovereigntie, and the sunne's hottest violence, mustering themselves in those watery plaines where they hold a continual civill warre, and rush- ing one upon another, make windcs and waves give backe ; seeming to rent the earcs of others, while they rent themselves with crashing and splitting their congealed armours." — Puixhas his PiljriDH'.'i. GEOGRAl'lIY OF HUDSON BAY. '>1 4V X liitc the ilh chill- ves with the sea's solves in 11(1 rush- ,'iiiiiig to ling aiul by lying deeper in the water than the small ice, and not so deep as the i'les of ice, is by the tides made the instrument of disolution, of its self and all the rest. And so the seasons and returns are provided for ; the seas are kept cool, without being perpetually congcalcid or incum- bred ; and the numerous inhabitants of oyl lish, amphibious creatures, and animals who require cool climes, are accomi- dated : for 'tis to be noted that the seas are not more affected by the cold ice floating up and down all the sunnner, than the adjacent coast. And you may form a pretty true judgment by the apjicar- ance of the land, wether their is any ice near it or no, but also according to the quantity. Appears a white gleam over the land and ice in that part where you will perceive the black vapour of the sea alternately chequer the appendant hemisphce ; and this, if carefully attended to, may be per- ceived to a great distance. The use is too evident to animad- vert thereon. I must not omitt to remark that altho the ice is, as it were, the sport of the tides, yet the tides are violently affected by those thick, heavy, deep rands of ice, which distract them in all directions and in all gradations, according to the bidk and depth they arc immersed. These, as before, plough through the small ice with an asstonishing force, but are overcome by the superior quantity of small ice. In all these encounters there is great danger to be catched near the borders, where the undertow is so powerfull, like falling athwart a tire of ships in a strong tides way. No power can remove untill the return of the contrary tide, and so you ly exposed to the crush and shock of all that comes : these avc call escapes with some propriety. What I have .'-aid hitherto principly belongs to the ice in the streights where the tides are powerfull every where ; but the ice in the bay, untill you are near the laiul, is very still, and is in a numner moved by the winds only ; which makes _/ * II 22 GEOGRAPHY OF HUDSON BAY. i I •■ ■fi us take any mcthocl, or sail almost any distance, rather than fasten in the bay ice. And as a memento, never enter a body of ice in the night, nor in a fogg, where their is any hazard of being inclosed, nor before you have circumscribed it as much as possible ; nor imagine 'tis lost time to take two looks before you resolve once. I have constantly experi- enced tliis, which has more than once given me considerable advantages over other ships ; in short, whenever I slighted this precaution, I generally was punished in the neglect of it before I got disentangled. Thus much for the ice. The tides about England are so well defined, that I am unable to add any great matter thereto, wherr all along the eastern coast is a regular tide and half tide propogated from the northern floods, and are accelerated, or retarded, accord- ing to the diversity of the shores, or gulphs, or flatts, or shoalds, or capes, alternately. And here it may be necessary to explain what I mean by tide and half-tide. Tides, in their duration, under the influence of the luminaries, undis- turbed by winds, neither accelerated nor retarded by the position of the coasts, bays, shoals, nor other circumstances, is six hours flood and six hours ebb, correspondent to the quadratures of the moon ; but this influence so impressed on a fluid body in motion, will continue to run three hours longer, but not rise higher ; and so, vice versus, it will run longer than low water, and not ebb lower ; and this motion is as uniform as the tides, and ebbing and flowing of the sea. Near great rivers, in bays, shoalds, and other circumstances, this motion is repulsed, and it is entirely effected in cquili- brio only. That the tides are generated by the influence of the luminaries, and formed into streams by the continents reverberating those faint tremours, is demonstrable, from that great diversity we collect from the different times and heights of the tides in sundry places, entirely occasioned by the many obstructions, or gredily swallowing them up, as is before observed, in their winding courses, round cape lands GE0GKA1MIY OF HUDSON HAY. or wide mouthed rivers, over long flatts, over shallows, amongst shoalds and Hands, and the like ; for from the North Cape, in Norway, to Cape Bona Esperanza, where the coast lyes open to the ocean, a N.E. and S.W. moon makes full sea every where ; at Whale Cove, a W.S.W. moon makes full sea. Thus has the wise Author of Nature provided for the wellfare of his creatures in raising so stupendious a fabrick as the tides arc, which arc not more useful for the business of navigation, than for the salutary refreshments of all nature (thus are they preserved sweet, thus made potable) ; thus, being agitated, are more easily evaporated and barreled up in clouds, and by their appendage the winds arc wafted into the thirsty inland countrys. From the Orkneys to Cajie Farewell, we observe, from well-grounded experience, is a S.W. current ; this, as it differs, so is it difficult to define. However, all our correc- tions is this way : to westwai'd of Cape Farewell the current is southerly ; near the Labrodore, I have known it to set twenty mile a day by observation, and therefore 'tis a caution not to approach too near the coast of Labrodore before you are well to northward in latitude 61° 25' N., in order to avoid that current, as well as the ice which lyes along that coast all the summer. And for this reason we give Cape Farewell a birthe of a degree of latitude or more, in order to avoid the ice off that cape. Thus I have brought you, my sons, to the mouth of Hud- sons Streights, where great caution is to be taken before you enter. Your ice geer is to be made ready, ruther chains and ruther takles reeved, lighter tacks and sheets for your sails ; and, in short, Avhatever will make your ship handy. The tides you shall meet here are so violent and surpris- ing, esspecially when disturbed and distracted by ice, as I before observed in my description of the ice, that nothing 1, I I 1 I ^ \ m 24 GFOGUVrilY 01' HUDSON HAY. but exporioncc can comprchciul or imagine. Suppose a ship attempting to strike a tangent across the sterlings of London bridge uppon a strong ebb ti(h>, Avhere the points of these are not more shocking than the jioints of those, take head how you touch ; the undertow nalcs you fast, and all your (>ff()i'ts are insufhcient to disintanglc you, and therefore the high and low water slacks are what, with most safety, may be used ; and on the appearance of the ice's motion, you arc to forsake the water, and push into small ice. I have more than once preserved the ship by this precaution. The times and heights of the tides arc next to bo regarded, which enter the streights from tlie eastward Avith great force, and an E.S.E. moon makes full sea at llesolution I'les up forty-five leagues ; at ^lidle Savage Islands, S.E. by E. moon makes fidl sea, and rises thirty foot water. At Upper Savage Islands, a S.E. moon makes full sea, and rises twenty-foiu' foot Avater. At Mill Islands, a S.S.E. moon makes full sea, and rises twenty foot water. At Seahorse I'oint, a S. by E. moon makes full sea, and rises eighteen foot wat(U'. At ^Mansfield Island a S bv E. moon makes full sea, and rises twelve foot water. At Carieswansnest, a S. by W. moon makes full sea, and rises but six foot Avater. Extracts from my journal, 1748 : At Ice Cove, a S.E. moon makes full sea, and rises twenty- eight foot water, and runs half-tide one mile from the shore ; 'tis probable all over the streights it may do the sanu\ And at Bonds Inlet, a S. by E. moon makes full sea, and rises sixteen foot water. This is a carefull deduction of the tides, where the distances correspond with the tides to a prodigious niceity ; and that it is demonstrable the eastern tide spends itself, and is spent, 4 CKOfill M'llY (»l in D-^ON l;\Y. I, and lances that [pent, /4 at or noar Caricswandncst, nor is tlu'rc any scnsi])l(> tide to westward of IMansfield. How are those lost strcems at Carieswansnest accnmihitcd in their progress to tlie west main .' liow generated I how formed into tides so powerfnll and so strong as they are in all parts of Sir Thos. Roe's Wellcome I is a problem as diffi- cnlt as it is cnrious. That these lost strecms are propogated in t. cmours by the impulse of th-^ sun and moon, and are rever- berated by the shores, and so formed into tides so powerfnll and so strong, will not, cannot be admitted, and yet there is such a conformity and correspondence between the times of full sea and the distances, as leave it extremely doul)tful. If you should gr-:it that there is a western tide, and that, from many circumstances, all along the western shore ther(^ is great probability, as will pretty plaiidy appear Mhen we come to make our deduction of that tide, and how it con- formes and corresponds with its times and distances, and that all northerly and westerly winds do considerably rase those tides on the western shore, and that all southerly and er.sterly do alternately flatt those tides, yet 'tis matter of astonishment that the western tide in James Bay, and the eastern tide^ at Carieswansnest, nearly on the same meridian, should have high Avater at one and the same time ; and these, in our supposition, propogated from distant and different oceans. I say it is not impossible but it may be so ; but it is very remarkable. You have something like this in the chanile of England tide from the westward, which sweeps the coast of France, Flanders, and Holland, and so far as the Lib to northward. Notwithstanding, at the same time, a brisk tide comes from the nortlrvard, washes all the eastern coasts of Scotland ^ The idea of a western seca seems to have occiii>ie(l the luiiul of Captain Coats ; which the Hood-tide Kwccping round the western side of Hudson's i]ay would encourage, by making it perhaps ajijiear in James's Bay that the flood came from the westward. 2(5 fiF,Of;i{,M IFY OF in DSON l(\Y, » I I i , t ^ * nrul England as far as Dunj^rnncss, and lliat also there may l)e some difference in the forces and strenth of those tides, as well as in their times of hio^h water. Yet w(! are certain they are hoth propo^ated and derived IVom the northern and western Hood. To apply what has heen said. It appears to me to he extremely dilficult to determine this matter, and shall content my^:-lf with ,u,ivini>- you the matter of fact, as I have colhx-ted them from tlie (experience of others and myself. A bare deduction of the JJay tide slunvs it in the fullest liyht, vi/. : Tn the dispute hetwec^n A. ]^ol)hs aiul C'aptain Middleton, near the latitude^ of ()()^ 'MY N., in Sir Thomas Eoe's Well- come, and near tlu> meridian of Cape Southampton, 'tis said a W. by N. moon makes full sea, and setts from the S.W. according to Dobbs ; a west moon, according" to ]\[iddleton, and ('omes from the N.E.; and this nuitter of fact is canvissed with some heat on both sides. JNEr. Dobbs says, if he grants jNIiddleton his postiilatum, it Avill cmbacriss him, and in his deduction of the tinu^s and luMths taken at other places, will rcnluce him to an absurdity, for if you should give Middleton a point or tAVO of the com- pass in deducing his tides, it will be of no service to him to support a N.E. tide from his frozen streights, where it will appear from his own deduction, and in his printed map]>, to be directly contrary to matter of fact ; so notorious a trip in him as will justifie all Dobbs has impuicd to him; and this will stand as a monument of folly to posterity, how all attinnpts to hide the truth arc weak and vain. Mr. Dobbs dcnluction is naturall and easy, and is supported by matter of fact, viz. : At AVager Eiver or Streight, a W. by N. moon makes full sea, and rises thii teen foot at an ordinary tide. And comes from the south west ; for if it came from the frozen streights, it would undoubtedly sweep round his Repulse Bay, where, on the contrary, INIiddleton lost all i ./I I 1 OKOfiR.VrilY OF HUDSON BAY. 2T |n the Id his 1st nil appearance of a tide, not only in the force, but hoiy:lit of the tides ; and wh.at is still mor*^ notorious, that in the streii^ht near Cape Dohbs, where the sea was squeazed in, it would be accelerated, not languish, as he found it; and it is beyond all controversy, and he himself agrees, that at or near Brook Cobham he found it fiow'd more water, and run stronger, than on any other part of that coast. Cast your eye on the mapp, and sec how a X.E. tide could perform this after pass- ing thro that frozen streight, a diminutive stream of a few leagues in breadth, to fill up that wide expanse and run with that force we find them all along the western shore. At Brook Cobham and Whale Cove, from the authority of Fox, Kelso, Nappcr, and myself, all our journals assert a W.S.W. moon makes full sea, and rises from fourteen to eighteen foot water. At Churchill River, a W.X.AV.lN. moon makes full sea, and rises fourteen foot water. At Port Nelson Shoalds, N.W. by W. moon makes full sea, and rises fourteen foot water. At Port Nelson Rivers mouth and Hays River mouth, a N.W. moon makes full sea, and rises sixteen foot Avater. At Albany Road, a N. or S. moon maizes full sea, and rises eight foot water at an ordinary tide. At Moose River Road S.^E. moon makes full sea, and rises seven foot at an ordinary tide. These times and these heights are to be understood when the tides are unincumberd by ice, iminfluenced by high winds, both which make some alteration ; but doAvn James Bay, where the tides are languid, the northerly and westerly winds will bring twelve and fourteen foot water. At York Fort I have known it rise twenty foot ; at Churchill, sixteen foot, which demonstrate that the angular position of the land and coast, and high winds, have a prodigious infiuence on the natureall course of the tides. /» ' i i 28 (iEOGRAI'IIY Ol' HUDSON HAV. tif '- 1 '■ Thus you may observe that the eastern tide spends itself, and is sjicnt, in passin A\^iger Streight a fresh-water river, unwarily tells you, the higher he went up that river above Dear Sound, he found the ice, for severall days and severall tryalls, still thicker and closer, forgetting to reflect that, Avas it a river, it could not possibly happen fo, as is demonstrable by the gradual descent of all floods ; a bare deduction will convince any man,' viz, : At Gravesend you have nearly six hours flood and six hours ebb ; at London, five hours fiood, and seven iiours ebb; at Ilichmond, three hours flood, and nine hours ebb; and at Kingston, two hours flood, and ten hours ebb. So that, you perceive, was the ice broke up in this rivci^ how soon a few tides would clear it of all appearance of ice ; and this rule is incontestable. On the contrary, where the tides arc nearly equally in duration, and wants that head of water, such places will be longer jDcstred with ice ; and this is our case, as is agreed on by all that ever attempted to penetrate amongst these islands. It may be necessary to say a word or two on the land and livers as we find them in that navigation, for the better un- derstanding our geography. Hudson's Strcights on both sides is a very high bold land, broken into inlets, and lined with islands innunierable from one end to the other, very steep too everywhere, and the flood setts into those inlets very strong near the shore, and off again uppon the ebb ; this one reason w^hy near the north shore 'tis comonly clear ^ Subboquent examination has proved it to be a river, — or, more cor- rectly sjjcakiug, an inlet, into which a small river enapties itself, — as reported by iMiddleton, and not a strait, as conjectured by some : Cap- tain Coats, apparently, among the number. [Tnr>iiriitHMr[i ~v:. fiF.oon WHY OF irrnsdN ii\y 31 111 and un- both uetl very inlets ebb ; clear l> of ice first, and jierhnps it iiiny be so iiciir the south ^hore ; the snow melting in the declivitys will cause an increment in those out setts. Mansfield Island, about twenty leagues long, is a low Hat island, but rises towards the north end ; is fift(>en leagues west from C'apc Diggs, and extends 8.S.W. nearly to 01° 8vell as Notingham and Salisbury, and other places noi yet taken notice of. From Cape Pcmbrock to Cape Southampton is a low barren plain country, nothing distinguishable thereon. You have sounding in sixty fatham regular ground, but nearer then that is broken ground ; the first is a high bold cape, but the latter is a low flatt land ; and I had a hundred and twenty fatham not four miles from that cape ; therefore, forty fatham is near enough in dark wether. Wager Streight, or River, in (50° 20' N., appears more like a sea, with deap vv^ater, high land, a rapid tid(>, and salt thirty leagues up, and dilates to westward, as was made out to the Committe of the House of Comons. AV^hale Cove is moderately high land, broken in islands and inlets, a strong tide, and flows much Avater ; the flood came from the N.N.AV., and the ebb sett amongst them froi 1 S.S.E. I was at anchor in eighteen fatham, six miles from the nearest island, in the year 1T37. Seal lliver, to southward of Cape; Uscjuimow, is a low and barren coast ; the river is choked with islands and sholds, but runs a great way into the co aitry, and with one small land carrigc approchcs a lake or sea, which washes that whole ) ; il I m fiKOORVPHY OK mnsov 11 \Y. country from wlicncf our northern Indians conic down to trade at Cliurchill l{iver once in two years. The course of this river, as near as I couhl make it out from Mack-(iua-ta, or Louff Day's son, an Indian, is near AV.N.W. a hundred and twenty miles, and so leaves a snuiU tract of land hetween this and Churchill lliver, where ^Ir. Norton, nuister, at Churchill lliver, appointed that Indian and two other younj^ fellows to observe the motions of the two nations, and so give him notice from time to time Avhat was hatching between them, and so prevented them from continuing the war so distructive to the trade ; and by this means effected and established such a peace as has not been broke since, and now arc so united by marragcs and kind- nessis as give a ho})efull i)rospect for the time to come. The northern Indians, who by his means only the com- pany became acquainted with, ordered him in the year to travill into their country, and reside amongst them for a considerable time, in order to draw them down to trade, and make what observations he could ; but as he was very young and unqualified for any great matter, I did not find any- thing remained on his memory, but the danger and tcrrour he underwent : but to the dav of his death he had an afFec- tionate kindness for that people. These northern Indians arc an exact compound between the U&quemows and western Indians ; arc robust and wild ; not so delicate as the western Indians ; negligent of their persons to the last degree ; very fond of iron and iron tolls of all sorts ; and so indifferent about rain and sunshine or tcmpestious weather, as if tliey had lost all degrees of sense. For my own part, I saw a gang of them once at Churchill lliver, whom I thought so savage and brutal, that I litlc expected anything rational from them. And yet the leader of those Indians asked us many pertinant questions ; very inquisitive into our manner of life ; from whence we brought those goods ? where wc got our iron ? went all over the ship ; <.]■<)(. U M'llY or III 1>>><>N H\Y. •.]:l wccn Iwild ; their tolls [ic or Icnsc. L-chill litlc bacler very liiglit Ihip ; oxamitu'd our anchors, cjiblcs, niid in ^liort cvfrytliinLr !»•' saw ; the compass lie took for a toy, and all we could do or say about it made him laui^h. The iron, h(> said, his countrymen valued most ; and our guns they liked very well; hut the want of powder and shot induced them to cut them up lor knives and cliizzells ; so that, on the whole, he thouf^ht nothinuf Ave l)rou<,dit was ■worth their trouble only the wroun:ht iron. Tn this reseiid)les the I'sfpu'Uiows ; but contrary to them they generally dress their vijtuals, live in tents, not in caves as those do, live more on inland food, as wcdves, deer, and other "wild creatures ; not as those, on whale's oyl and blub- bers, and other train ; they are not so megre, thin, and raw boned, as the western Indians; nor so bloatt^d, squatt, and sallow, as the I'squemoM's. 80, as I before said, they arc a compound of both, and their life and manners denionstrate this. To the southward of Seel River our western Indians are dispersed in tribes and familys, not under any monarchical goverment, but truely patriarchical, as far as I can observe ; and there youth are as absolutely under the tuition and dis- posal of the old men as in the most arbitrary country in the world ; this is most certainly that freedom of nature and independency which the antient poets dreamed of, but is nowhere to be found in the known Avorld but amongst these savages ; their obedience is not servile, but love and emula- tion ; and their eldest sons succeed in the preeminence of his fiimily. There are manv barbarious customs amonofst them ; too tedious, and in some measure foreign to my subject, the geography of that countrye. It will be necessary, before I qiatt these parts, to set down my own sentiments and that of others, in regard to the Usquemows, the naturrdl inhabitants of all the northern bor- ders of Hudson's Bay and Streights, which swarms with 34 C;F,0G1? APIIY OF TIT'DSON HAY. i } robust hardy fellows fitt for the severest ext-rcise, and indeed with such dispositions, as if God's providence in fullness of time had prepared them to receive the yoke of civility. And I do assert of my own knowledge, that these people are nothing near so savage as is represented by our early voy- agers, and that there confidence is in their innocence, not in their numbers, Avhich I have often experienced when one or two has put themselves into my hand without reserve or caution. I am of opinion with others, that if the company had thought it their interest (and if their w(>re not political rea- sons to the contrary), that discovery had been determined long before this time, and those swarms of God's people made usefull in trade and reclaimed from horrid idolitry. There is one difficulty occurs in reducing this numerous people to civility, and that is i eir way of life and dyett, Avhich makes extreenily so for Eiu'opeans to setlc amongst them ; the want of fuel makes it neccssarv to eat raw meat. Ei'.t, notwithstanding, if the company would give leave to others, or do it themselves, to shelter in the woody parts of the bay, and so return annually into those jiarts amongst the Usquemows, and continue all the summer months for a year or two, and by degrees penitrate to westward; — I say a fishery more beneficial than the furr trade might, in seven years time, be rased amongst that people, and those tribes made usefull to us, and acquire salvation to them- selves ; but if, in this progress, a passage should be found to the South Sea, it would open to us such a scene of treasure and honoiu", as no nation of the A\'orld (save one) ever enjoyed l)cfor(\ I am satisfi(>d the time is near at hand that this great work is to be undertaken, by whom I cannot forsee. The Com- pany is unpardonable in leaving such swarms of Gods peo2)le in the hands of the devill, unattempted, as well as the other Indians in generall, a docile, inoffensive, good-natured, i V 3 GEOGRAPHY OF TIUDSON HAY. 35 tlis for |ght, in those tlicm- luncl to [oasure ijoycd work Com- [icoplc other tared, humane people, ofring and hoAviug to the yoke, yet slianie- fully neglected, not to give it u harder name ; as if gorging ourselves -with superfiuitys Avas the xdtiuiate condilion of this life, and as for that in another life, we Mere neither much concerned for them, nor our selves. These arc the methods 1 think most prol)al)le to succeed, and accomplish this great Avork, and hy degrees reconcile them to our manner of life and accustome ourselves to theirs, and gradually advance this laudable business untill it is completed. For to the eternal shame of those people, all the litlc attem})ts made for the Company Avere rather to amuse than effect tliis business ; and the time appointed, and the persons employed, so unequal to the task, as posterity Avill blush to observe' how sordid and selfish this generation has been. Churchill Hiver, in latitude 59° 00' N., and 95° 00' west longitude from London (in Indian, Manato-e-sepe, a sea-like river), has an entrance from ten to seven fathom Avater deep, and steep on both sides, but rocky, and a most A-iolcnt tide of ebb, Avhich is oAving to the form of that river, Avhicli expands itself from an entrance of about a third of a mile from Cape Mary to I squemoAV Point ; Avithin from Buttons Hock to the opposite shore, is five mile over. Uppon UsquemoAV Point the Company have erected a stone fort of a quadrangular figure, Avhich is sufficient to defend the enterence into this riven*. Three miles \\\), you haA'c AA'ater for any ship, but higher up 'tis full of sholds and ^ Posterity may well Mush, wlien tlicy rcul the followinp; rcniiirks of Sir Edwiml Parry in his second voyage : — " Ujion the whole, it was impossible for us uot to receive a very unfavourable impression of the general licha\iour and moral character uf the natives of ihis jiart of Hudson's Strait (the Savage Islands), who seem to have accpiired, by an annual intercourse with our shii)s for nearly a hundred years, many of the A'ices Avhieh unhapi)ily attend a first intercourse with the civilized World, witliout having imbibed any of tlie virtues or refinements which adorn and render it hap[)y." f » 3(i GEOGllArilV OF JlUJ)SO>' J>AY. fliitts, and vcrv stonov. Abovo IMuskcta Point is u fall of water, \\ liicii tcrnxinatcs the navigation of this river to any other than very small boats and canoes, who track up this ridge of stones, wh(>re our ]K'oi)le are plagued in getting down tlunr rafts of tind)er for firo wood and other uses, which they float (U)wn many miles, for all below is cleared and cut down some years ajjo. About tw(>ntv miles above that ridge is a colatcrall branch falls into this river, called liitle Churchill, where is caught the finest jack in the world. There titinu^gg is a fish not unlike our largest white herrings, very good food, and in great plenty in the fall of the year ; but below, near the mouth o^' this river, is such sholes of salmon trout, as th(>y som(>timcs salt as nnich as half victual th(> factorye. Wiiite Whale is here in abundance, spring and fall, and seels, the natural and heriditarv enemy of that fish : there are muscles, and a sort of sprey, thrown ashore in stormy weather, not much unlike our spratts ; but no ])er(h nor sturgoon, as in the otlier rivers. Tliis river runs in from Usquemow Point, near north and south, \v\\ mile to INIuskeeta Point, near the fall, and then Minds round to westAvard, and runs upwards of two hundred miles, where, with a small carrage, they arrive on the shore of the great lake, Winipeggon. The Indians have many very expressive terms in their language. This river, from its great breadth and length, is calhnl Manato-e-sepe, a sea-like river ; this lake is caled A\'inipeggon-e-sepe, or the great sea, is but litle inf(>riour to Hudsons Bay for breadth, and length, and depth of water ;' and ish'.nds and woods scattered ev(>rywher(> ; and communi- cates with other lakes to southward, nu)re of -which here- after ; but also extends it self nearly N.W. to an indeter- min(>d distance, from the north western shores of Avhich I judge our Miscota Indians come to Churchill River to trade ' Tliis is, of course, a .siroat error, I.akc WinniiK:,:^' not lioiiii>' oiio third I'i the k'liylh, nor an eighth [uul of the width of llud»'in"s JJ.iy. i4 GKOGJtAPIIY OF HUDSON BAY. 37 their th, is calc'd lur to it(>r ;' iiini- lore- ctrr- cli I liulo Ithird ^ every other year ; hut Avethcr thev come thro the northern Indian country, or the Xadowissis country (another nation of Indians, situated on the western hanks of Winipegi^on), who trade at Yorkfort once in tAvo year, our interpriters arc not ck'ar in. These Miscota Indians tell us some visionary storeys of ships and men of a different make and complection frequenting there shores, for they are ])ositive this lake is open to westward ; and do attempt to discrihc their gilded heeks, and sails, and other matters, both tedious and tire- some, without we had better grounds ; since our acquaint- ance with these three sorts of people are but of a late date ; aiul whether it Avas cariosity or necessity that brought then first to our settlements they seem to despise many things that the other Indians are very fond of. This lake, or sea, Winipeggon, so far we are pretty certain, is not above a hundred and seventy miles to westward of (Jhurchill River, and that the southern extremity is in lati- tude of 59° N.; so that the position of this inland sea readily accounts for those extrodinary tides which arc observable all along the Avestern coasts of Iludsons Bay, with northerly and Avcsterly Avinds ; and this is so notorious and remarkable, as can hardly escape the notice of the most stupid I'elloAv that ever AA'intered at Churchill River. At Yorkfort, in Hays River, the angular inclination of that coast, took in those forcible tid(vs in their course from the north, Avliich might incline us to think it Avas raised by that possition near that place. But at Churchill those Avinds blow from the land, and should flatt the tides, not raise them, if propogated from the eastAvard. And that the ^\'inii)eggon does communicate Avith Iludsons Bay' to the northward of Cape UsquemoAv, is so generally knoAvn and understood by almost every person Avho have ^ Liike Winnipeg empties itself at its nortliern extremity into a river, wliirli (lowing tluongh a eliain of small lakes discharges itself into Iludsons Ijav at Tort 2selson. m (ilXXiUVrilY OF Ill'DSON MAY. V I (H resided tlirro any lime, lliat I am at a loss to account for the absurdity of sonu^ pcnsons conduct. 'I'o northward of that ca])c arc ishnids iniuinu'ral)lc ; hut th(; ice, the tides, and oth(>r emharrissnu'nts not fit to perticuhtrize in this jdace, [ways preve nted )k> f our p(>ople troni pusiuufj^ ni tnere, th notwith standinu; the many inc(Mitives hefore tak( n notice of. The U-ixdc at Churchill has rose from 8()()() skins to 1H,000, hcver and woolves cliic-fly, and hut a few nuirtins ; and it may he increas(>(l, and it will increase, by time, to lOjOOO, if tlu>ir was not ])olitical reasons to the contrary, Jlowtncr, our stone fort will be a fine security for the trade at that place. In coasting- along to C'ajie Churchill, eii^ht lea^iu's fVom Usqnemow Point, you nuH-t the sholes of Knight's Hill, a remarkable spot of (^arth, deposited in a fenn, to caution sea- men of those dangers near it, Avhosc banks and ridges run of to sea six mil(> ; by another note he says eight miles, and that nine fathom is too near tluMu day and night ; and so on to the cai)e, about six h>agues farther to eastward, to sail round which conu^ no ncnu'cr than ten fathom. And tlien a south by east ecnirst^ to 57° 40' latitude, in fifteen to twenty fathom, you conu> to Fort Nelsons sholes; in crossing a s])itt which shoots from them, Mith a S.S.E. coiirse, you conw into seven fatham and hard ground, and so into fifteen fatham soft ; and so continue that course from fifteen fatham soft, nntill you gradually shohling into seven fatham hard, there you come to anchor and wate the tidc^, to go over the flatt to ilay's Kiver. The shore from Cape Tatnam to Marsh Point lyc^s east by north, and west by south. By edging on the fiatts into three fatham, you rase the factory and ^Earsh Point, or see tiu) becon in Five Fathom Jlole. Vou will carry fifteen foot at an ordinary tide, in the fair way, when the factory hears S.^^'. by W. and beacon AA'.S.\\'., good nine mile ovc>r that flat! into Five Fathom Hole, a bason three ([uarters of a mile i i Ol-'.OOH AIMl V or HUDSON HAY. 39 \vn ii spitt into itluuu soft, there latt to St by three tlie oot at H hears that mile II in diameter. 'I'wo mile hii^lier up is a liole tlirec fathain deep, suflieient for one sliip. 'IliC river, uj) three miles to the factory, dry's ahnost (-very ti(h'. Note, " tlie difrerciice of h)ngitude from Churcliill lvi\er, at I'scpieniow Point, to Five Fatham I Foh' in Hay's River, is l^° !2()' E. ; but to eonu; round Port Nelson slioidds, in 57° 40' N., you must go i!" '.lY K. ; th(> Hole is in hititude 57° 10' \. ^'ou observe, in eoasting, you sliould not go without twenty or twenty-two fatliam, least you should fall in with the shoalds of Cape Tatnam, nor neai'er than fifteen fatham, least you be embarrised with the shoalds of I'ort Nelson." York Fort, in Hay's River, has the most ])rineiplc trafh; lu that country, where the two rivers brings down such swarms of natives annually, as is nowhere else in that country. Fort Nelson is by much the most navigable for shijis, and near half the trade come down that riv ^v ; but 'tis so full of sliiiri)s ;)nd falls, that most of our Indians chuse Hay's Itiver, and 'tis more secur(\ and better for the Company, guarded l)y those ilatts and shallows against the attempts of an enemy by sea, the only way to come at ihis settlement. As to the extent of these two rivers, they run up seventy miles nearly parrelel to one another, betAveen the south and Avest, and there unite, forming that island the settlement is made uppon ; from thence it runs into sonu; morassis and beaver grounds, and has its source in an infinity of litlr> laf es, Avhich dilate themselves in rivulets into the Lake Nimipigou,' which stretches nearly N.^^^ and S.E. above sixty leagues in length, and in breadth n(>arly forty leagues, from ;Vi° ')f latitude to 5()-, in form of a philbert, where enters a streight seventy-five leagues in length from the N.X.AV. out of the \\'iniiK\ggon-e-sep(>, before exjdained, the (>astern border of Avhich is in 100° W. longitude from London. This Lak(^ Nlmipeggon has many islands covered with ' Lake Wiimiijcgoos. 40 GKOOU.VniY OF III DSON UaY, i i if ii f wood, and the borders arc r('])lcnishcd witli dear, and all sorts of beasts, and men ; the lake abounds with fish, titi- mcgg (at the proper seasons in prodi'^ious qiiantiti(>s, which tlic Indians smoak and dry for winter food), perch, and niathii, and sturgoon very largo, and fine eating : all these different species of fish come down onr rivers into Hudson's Bay at some seasons of the year, and are caught by our people — sturgeon, mathii, and chai'ming perch as big as a small cod, and titiniegg, at our southern settlements ; jack, salmon, and titimcgg, at our northern settlements. Our trading Indians from all those countrys assert that the Wini- peggon is filled Avith salt water very deep, with seals and whales and othci sorts of fish in abundance. The western borders of this Lake Winipeggon is inhabited by the Nadouissis ; more to soutlnvard is the Sinipoots ; to soutnAvarcl of them is the Foots and. Stone Indians ; farther south is the Cristians ; and to southward of them is the Stureroon Indians. The northern borders of that g/eat lake is occupied by the Miscota and northern Indians, who partake so much of the features and complection of the Usquemows, that I am pcrswadcd they are near neighbours to one another. But those tribes to westward of th? lake extend to an ind"termined distance. Wither Mr. Kelsey was amongst those western Indians when he travilcd to cultivate the com- pany trade, or the more southerly Indians, I am not w 11 informed ; but this is certain, that the Foots, Senepoots, and Stone Ini^nms, have frequented York Fort many years ; the Nadouissis, Christians, and L^turgoon Indians, is of a later date ; the Miscota are a nation we have had a much shorter acquaintance with ; and their unequal war with the Nado- wissis, a powxrfull and warlike people, inspired them with motives to seek out fire-arms, which the northern Indians, their kindred and frinds, first brought them to Cl^urchill River. » I OEOORAPIIY OF UTtDSON Jl.VY. 41 habited M lots ; to " farther is the to an Inonefst com- :t AV 11 js, and ; the later liortcr N^ado- with [lians, irchill All these tribes and nations are situated on the western side^^ of those lakes, from latitude 01° to 47", to westwnrd of the Superior Lake, and the strcights from lake to lak(\ and do f^cncrally come down every year, or once in two years, to trade at York Fort. Those countrys that ly between Hndsons liay on the east, and those great lakes on the west, are occupied by a mixed moiingril people of many tribes, as great and litle Winipeggons ; their very names tells us where they come from, when the lakes are well fixed. The Cristians, I must acknoA\'ledge, are an unmixed people ; I have seen them as lair as the Europeans, and nothing like the other Indians, l)ut in their manner of life. The Pike Indians, Owashoes, and Eagle Ey(>s, do all go down to Albany ; the great and litle Tabitabies, Piscotagcmies, and INtiscosinks, do frequent Moose River ; all the rest of the wandring tribes are thos(^ we call Home Indians, or from those lakr •. It is amongst these tribes that the French wood-runners make such inroads on our borders ; nor is it in the power of man to prevent it growing worse and worse, withcut we coidd fall on a way to send our people amongst the Indians, to live and hunt, and marry and mix, and encounter and drive those pedlers back into their own lakes. For I dont find those wood-runners ever made any pro- gress much to northward of the Superior Lake; and some of the branches on the eastern side, and those to westward, seem always to hav(> been strangers to them, perhaps owing to the intestine warrs and divisions amongst those diffin-ent tribes. These lakes so define(1 occupies the greatest pnrt of that inland coiuitry. And thus has those idle, indolent, ha])py wanderers in their paradise, freed from the curse of all civilized countrys, ambition and wavit, the pleasure and benefit of rambling into far distant countrys, without the hazard of being siuprized bv more savage Fnro]ieans. in ysa 42 GEOGRAPHY OF HUDSON BAY. ^r ] , w.\ i\ contentment and ease of mind, in lazy luxery, without '^per- turbation or misgiving for want. On the contrary, are so hospitaly inclined, that if by chance they meet any stcrved Indians, or familys of sterved Indians, they immediately share fate with them, and cannot, nor will not, enjoy a morsal untill those are provided for, not ?'"intily, but in the same measure and manner with him- self. I knew an instance of this, of two familys of Indians at Churchill, in the year 17452 or 1743, one whose name in English was Warrior, the other Atcquenow. The Warrior meets him in the barren plain a starving for want, and him- self well stock't with provissions, he gave him a small supply, and haistned into the hunting grounds, and lift poor Atc- quenow to strugle with famine in a barren plain : finally, they dyed, and eat one another, and so the" whole family was cut off, all but two vigorous children, who in great extremity reach't that factory. Some time after, the Warrior comes down to trade, the other J lians upbraids him ; amongst other expressions, tells him he was as savage and greedy as the French or English ; he retires immediately into his tent, covers his head, and dyes in a few hours after. This is matter of fact ; and altho' I was not an eye-witness when the Warrior dy'd, I was at Churchill a few days after, when his family was in the utmost confusion abf ii it. Here's humanity ! here's virtue in perfection ! this is what the antients dreamed of; but is nowhere in the known world to be found but amongst these savages. You will say, my sons, that a people so happy in almost every circumstance of life, should have multiply 'd and in- creased much faster then it appears they have. I answer, their fugitive rambling life from place to place, is destruc- tive to their younger chilldrcn ; for 'tis certain their women bring forth their chilldren much easier and without injury than ours do ; and sometimes this indolent security over- tiikes them in those barren plains, — and so hungar, the 1 GEOGRAPHY OF HUDSON UAY. 43 almost ind in- l. only distemper that kills an Indian, dispatches a whole ftxmily. The Indians shew us their wisdom on divers occasions, and in none more than in their choice of names of creatures and places, which always imply something of their natures and qualitys ; which I could evince by too instances : thus, Winipcggon is a larger lake or sea, Nimipeggon is a lesser lake or sea; AMteck AVinnepeeggon, a place where deer abounds ; our rivers Manato-e-sepe, a sea-like river, a sea- like lake, and a thousand more such significant terms ; islands the same, Agomisco, Sick, where deer herds ; the like of fish and fowl. Ticko-omo, a deer haunt; Metcsina, ' place of refresh- ment ; Kato-ccan, a fine hunting ground ; Komo-so-ta-co, a place where deer herds ; Coapachi-oun-e-scepe,' a fresh-water river; Qua-qua-chich-i-uan, it swallows quickly our gulph hazard ; Mischigitu-e-seepe, a river without bounds, our Great White Whale River, cum multis aliis. This inteligent way of fitting names informs them at once what may be expected in those places, and is so extrodinary usefull to posterity, and renders our arbritary distinctions quite con- temptable. And the better our governours and people have made themselves acquainted with these people, they have ahvays had a stronger impression of their judgement and wisdom. Those three larger lakes, and a multitude of lesser lakes, nearly parellel and equidistant from Hudsons Bay, affords by their branches an easy communication with the rivers and creeks of Hudsons Bay, by the vast falls of snow which makes such floods and flows of water as greatly facilitate th?* roving wandring disposition of this idle, indolent, happy people ; and we are pritty certain all or most of those Indians ^ The same significant terms are still adopted by the natives : for instance, the Thleweechodczcth, or Great Fish River, discovered by Sir George Back, i^ / V ' 44 (iEOOHAPHY OF IILDSON HAY. on this side those lakes come down to trade annuallv, and those Indians to westward of those lakes every other year, to one or other of our setlenients ; the wood-runners endea- vour to way lay them, and sometimes come in for a chasing part, especially amongst the mungril tribes ; but those west- ern Indians in national tribes are such as the pedlers arc shy of meeting with. From the Point of Marsh at the mouth of Port Nelson lliver lip to Plambrough Head, a bluff high land on the north-west side, is twenty-eight miles, and navigable for any ship, where you meet with a cluster of islands and a I'all which terminates that navigation ; not but small boats and canoes get over with some difficulty, and have a fine chanile for many miles above (and I have heard that a ship might get over this fall if she waited some high raging tides in the fall of the year) ; it is about twelve miles wide at the Point of Marsh, and so inclines gradually to about four miles in breadth against that headland. At eight miles distance is Hay's River ; above the factory is a creek, against which in Port Nelson is another, which in a manner meet, where the natives in bad wether unload their canoes, and come over into Hay's River, rather than go round the Point of Marsh : this pass would be of great consequence if ever the Company come to bo rival'd in that trade. However, the Company has delay'd to secure this place sooner ; their orders was sent in the year 1749, to erect a fortification on that side to secure that pass and shut up that river. In sailing into that river, take your soundings from the south shore, in five to three fathani, to avoid falling into broken ground to northward, which is very stud too ; but you have flatt and fair soundings on the south side. With this precaution you may, in dark wether, sail safely into Port Nelson, six or eight mile up course, nearly S.W. by S. In this noble, capacious river, the antient worthys took shelter, and immagined none other would answer so well for ft <& W '■' GROOHAPHY OF Hl'DSON BAY. 45 ni the into but With into byS. took 11 for li tlie business of trade and for a comiortable residence, and a settlement was made ; but soon after was removed where it now stands, at the concurrent request of all the natives, for the reasons before mentioned. This river has a most extro- dinary flux, owing to those unbounded flatts ; and the fall produces a violent reflux, which keeps the mouth of this extrodinary river always open in winter, whence proceeds those pernicious frost-mist's, which affects the eyes and lungs of our people in a most deplorable manner ; for which nothing is so effectual as bleeding and sweating, if worse, blistering ; but the continuation and repetition of these remidy's impaires our peoples health so much, that very few ever escaped this drcadfull calamity. This is attended with so exquisit a pain that it is never mentioned by any who ever were afflicted with it but with terrour. The Indians always bleed and sweet with the steam of warm water : this remidy, altho slower, I am of opinion do less wound the flne capillaries of the lungs, where the seat of this malady do principly ly ; and if the faculty would excuse me, I could assine a reason why those mists are so hurtfull in that part. This steam arises from a mixture of salt and fresh water, which is immediately congealed into ice, very hard ; so wafted into the lungs, into those fine capillaries, without being disolved. This sudden and violent effect is made before nature can reconcile her self to so prodigious an extream : hence those convulsions and straitnings that give that exquisite pain. From the mouth of Port Nelson to Cape Tatnam is near twenty leagues distance, E.N.E., by true chart, along a flatt shore, from five to ten fatham deep, in a channile about six leagues broad, over to Port Nelson shoalds. The cape is flatt off a great way, to 57° 35', variation, 17° N.Avesterly in the 1740, where the coast winds away E.S.E. ; but flatt and sandy, and the coast very low but woody ; twelve miles along- shore you meet the east and west Pens, two litle woody i , i ■ '■ 46 OEOORAPHY OF HUDSON BAY. islands. And in latitude 56° 00' is a fine river, caled Severn, which dilates itself into far distant countrys, communicates with all those lakes, and affords, by its branches, an easy cntcrence into all the other rivers : hence the Indians go indifferently to Albany, to Hays, and Port Nelson. About forty years ago, the Company had a setlcment on this river, and the trade was considerable ; but uppon the recovery of York Fort by the peace of Utrecht, the Company throwed it up as not worth the expencc, and the trade is divided between Albany and that place. The iUouth of this river is said to be shoald ; but the bar is not near so broad as at Hays River. This coast and river is covcr'd with wood every where, and a pritty clean shore without ten or twelve fatham. From Severn River to Cape Henrietta Maria, in latitude 55° 10' N., the course is E.S.E. ; to westward of which, in 65° 30', near Cajje Look-out, is some broken ground, banks, and ridges, a great way off, come no nearer than seventeen fatham ; the land, very low and fenny, appears here and there in tufts of trees. To southward of the Cape, the land run S.S.E. very low, but clean, even soundings, wdth wood in some places. The shore is flatt a good way of. S.E. from Cape Henrietta Maria, seventeen leagues distance, is a cluster of bairen islands, four larger in number, and many lesser, from 54° 40' to 54° 28', caled the Bear Islands, in thirty fatham water, cliffy, and not so low as the main, higher than the hull of a ship. Five leagues east from the south Bear, is a rock one mile in cir- cumference, caled the Cubb. In coasting down James Bay, you are to observe to keep from ten or twelve fatham into twenty-two fatham, to avoid the islands to eastward ; and so on, S. by E., into 53° 30', you come to the west end of Agomisco, and so regard those depths into 53° 00', where you come to the north-east corner of that great island, where you fall into broken ground and deep water, twenty-five or thirty fatham in a cast or two. GEOORAPHY OF HUDSON HAY. 47 keep avoid i° 30', those orner :1 and two. If i ^i East, seven leagues from this point, are four islands, named Weston's Isles ; E.N.E. nine leagues, arc two Twins of a moderate bigness, and barren, cliffy land, with some scatercd wood here and there. E.S.E. fourteen leagues, is fine bold island, caled Holoman's Temple ; and so, on a chain is some scattered islands, nearly S.S.E., to Trodileys, to Charlton Danbys and Caries, in 52° 10'; to eastward of those arc numberless nameless islands. N.IJ — There is a rock, S.W., sixteen miles from the South Bear, in latitude 54° 20' N., which I named Floatars Wash, from an accident of that man, who Avas drowned there. From the north-east corner of Agomisco, S.S.E. thirty-two miles, in latitude 52° 32' N., is a dry bank called the Gaskitt. 'Tis about tvo mile long, S.S.W. and N.N.E., and drys half a mile ; you have fifteen fatham close to eastward of it, and five, six, seven fatham to westward. I am of opinion there is a wide, open channile to westward of it ; 'tis thirty-two miles to eastward of Albany Road ; 'tis fifty-seven miles to eastward of the South Bear, and that island is twenty-five miles to westward of the North Sand Head in Albany River ; 'tis fifty-eight miles N. by E. from Moose River Road, and twenty-one miles W.S.W. from Trodiley Island. From the Gaskitt, fifty-eight miles S. by W., you come to Moose River Road ; eight mile north from Sand Heads, North Point, W^N.W., six mile, in latitude 5P 34' N., where you wate for the tide to go into that wide-mouthed river, which is not less than twelve miles over, from the North Point to the opposite shore, which opens with three chan- niles ; but the north and eastern are so choked with banks and shoalds, and there is no using those ; the midle chanile will admit of a shijo of twelve foot. Observing the tide over a bar one mile broad, and one mile "within the Sand Heads, is a litle place affords water for a ship to ly afloat, caled the Lower Ship Hole, to distinguish it from another four mile above Sand Heads, caled Ship Hole, in three fatham, low 48 OEOORArilY OF HUDSON BAY. Eight iiiile water, where we moor and do our business, bplov*' the factory on Robcrsons Islands, from Midlcbrough, another island runs a shoald Avithin half a mile of the ship, which cuts the river, and prevents the ship going to the factory, which has water plenty all above that place. In this river you have many islands, all covered with wood, as is the sides everywhere, except here and there 'tis interspersed with Savannahs. The wood is spruce, pine, popler, juniper, and some burch, shrubbs of many sort, covered with variety of bcrrys, as huckle-berrys, blew-bcrrys, cranberrys, juniper- berrys,afine yellow berry caled pithogatomincs, straAv-berrys, and bramble-berrys. This great variety, intermixed witii those evergreens, afford a most delightfuU prospect ; and, indeed, Mooso River is the garden of Iludsons Bay. Notwithstanding, I knoAV not by what ill-fated policy this settlement has, ever since its settlement in the year 1732, struggled with great difficulty in regard to country provisions. The Indians in this neighbourhood, by their longer inter- course with the English and French, are more sociable, more civell, and a better genious for trade, more humane, and not so savage, as in the northern parts of the bay, and require more address and management to make them usefull to the settlement, which, I doubt, has been so much neglected, and which has been a great injury to this settlement and trad(^ hitherto ; for 'tis as well replenished with fish, and fowl, and deer, and other cretures, as any of the other settlements, and rabbits in greater abundance. 'Tis true the marshes are wider, and the deluges are more violent, whicli root up and sAveep of whole plains, and plow up that sort of grass the foAvl are so fond of, near the borders of this river ; but as these are to be had uppon as easy terms as at any other settlement, by going a litle Avay out of the verge of these deluges. Surely 'tis a monstrous oversight ; and the Indians are so sensible of this, that they have treated our people with a proportionable contempt ; and this appeared so plain CEOGRAPIIY OF III'DSON HAY. 49 lians |opl(> liiiii to one of our modern governoiirs, who liad but a very litlc correspondence with these people, and observing the niiscar- rages of those before, he proposed, executed, and accom- plished, in one season, a greater supply of provisions than ever was knoAvn at that setlement, by the aid and advice of these very people. This shows what may be done, and like- wise, what has been neglected, left undone ! About eight miles above the factory is a cluster of islands, near which is a fall of the river, where boats and canoos are track't up, where the river is collected into a narrower com- pass, and deape water, and so collected extends itself into distant countrys, as far as latitude -17° 00', but is divided into two main branches : the greater runs S.W,, and termin- ates in the great Tabitabi Lake ; the other branch runs south, and ends the lesser Tabittabi. These two lakes affords, by their branches, an easy comunication with the lakes of Canada, Piscataggama on the west, and Camasinck on the east ; and the trade was considerably inlarged by the address of the aforesaid person, but was removed for reasons best known to the Company. Moose River is called, in Indian, Moosc- c-sepee, from the abundance of those deer ; also Nimmow-e- sepee, from the abundance of sturgeon in itt. The countrys bordering on this river is said to be very fertile, and capible of any culture ; and the summer season not so short, nor the winter so severe, as in other parts of the bay ; and abounds Avith jack, perch, mathyi, titimegg, and sturgeon, the finest and largest I ever saw, which these Indians smoak and dry at proper seasons. And you but seldom hear of any starved Indians hereabout; wether 'tis oAving to fewer barren grounds, or to a greater plenty of provision every Avli(>re, I leave it to more proper judges ; and T am told that rabbits may be had in quantity s ahvays. From the outer bouy of this riA'cr, eight miles E. by S. from the North Point to Albany Road, is sixty miles by coni- ])utation, six mile to the bluff, twenty-one miles more to 7 I\ ' ^ 11 50 (!E()fiU\]»HY OF Iirns')X HAY. A\^ipisco, eighteen more to Coekispcnny, and twenty-four miles move to the huy, in the fair Avay going into that river, N.N.W. i W., ^y^V. by N., and X.W. by W., in five futhani, twenty-one miles east from *^he fort on Bailey's Island, eight miles within the north Sand Ifead, and thirty-two miles AV. by S. from the Ciaskitt, in latitude 52° 22' N., by a fine observation, and Avhere a south moon makes full sea, rises uninflueneed about eight foot water, and the variation is l(i° north-westerly. The river is full of shoalds at the mouth, and a vessel of ten foot may go to the factory very safely ; but the buisness is now done by a slooj), and no ship has been in this river this twenty-five years, for reasons best knoAvn to the Com- pany ; for sur(> I am you seldom escape a gale in that wild road, esspecially in the fall, as put all at stake ; the ground is a light oa/, and vei'v bad anchorage. 'J'his river extends its self nearly AV.S.AW about three hundred miles, and by a small carrage into Mitehipekitan, hold on a navigable course into the Superior Lake in latitude 50° 00', from whence the French encroach into the Comjianys borders, and endeavour to fillurc our Indians to trade w^th them ; and, the better to succeed therein, erected a setlement on this river, within a hundred and twenty miles of Albany Fort, and resided there a considerable time, and did this setlement a great deal of damage ; but by some mismanagement amongst themself, it was deserted, and the Company, in the year 1741, erected a block-house near that place, which commands the two branches of that river : since -which no French Indian has resided on that river, altho we constantly hear of their roving amongst the scattered tribes, and with their guegaws and nicknacks have had, by times, a great influence over this good-natured indolent people. But those been practised so often uppon them, that the jest is worn out, and that fnritm and tiaon is the word by Avhich only the Company has the ascendent, not only in a greater choice of goods, but lu CEOGUArilY ni" HUDSON HAY. 51 cnty-four bat river, 'c fatham, iiid, eight miles W. hy a fine sea, rises ion is 10° vessel of ! buisness :his river the Com- that wild D ground V extends and l)y a le course lence the ideavour jetter to within a d there deal ot niself, it erected he two ian has roving iws and ver this ractiscd nd that any has ds, hut better pennorths ; which, as I observed helore, these Indians arc more polit(>, and are most accustomed to trade. 'J'liis river, after you are Avithin the shallows, is a fiiu' navigable river, many miles up, and the sharps and falls ;n-e fewer than in most rivers in the country. The western branch, one hundred miles up, do verge on the heads of Severn and Port Nelson : hence the Indians descend indifferently into all our rivers, which afford our people so easy a comuni- cation and inteligencc^, that none of the wood-runners can haunt that wide-extended country but in a very short time all our govcrnours may know it, and take their measures accordingly. As we know their wants, and know their practises, the neglect of this wise jiolicy will be always an injury to the Company. The Superior Lake is four degrees from north to south, and is 9° 00' of longitude from east to west, between 84"" and dS" west from London. 'Tis caled Superior, or Upper Lake, by the Europeans ; I suppose, from the descent of the waters falling into the liurons and Illinease, and other lakes of Canada, at the streight of St. ^laria, Avhere is a fall caled Sauteur(!s ; or as being the ultimate progress of the French, for the reason I mentioned. On the northern borders of this lake are many islands, which th(> French geographers have confounded Avitli other names than the first discoverers gave them, and hold forth to us the expediency of retaining as many of the Indian names as M-e can get, to make our geography inteligible ! The only island I shall take notice of, Lahonten cales Minong, near Avhich enters a streight seventy leagues from the xS'.W ., long which passis througli the Tike Lulian country into the Nimi- peggon-e-sepee be lore discribed. James IJay is an arm of JIudsons Bay, extending from Cape Henrietta ]\laria, in ■')■')' 10', to Moose Iviver, in '')l" '-'A', and is, in breadth, hl'tv-four h'agius iVoni east to west, iucliii- M I ■ 62 (ilKX.KArin ol' 111 DSON r,\Y, iii^', as von siiil, to soul liwmd, and lias luaiiy (nibariissir'-nts, wliicli you arc caicrully t<) attend too. l*oint Look-out lyes twenty leaf^ucs to westward of .' o Trenrietta Maria, in latitude ''")() ()()'; to eastward of which, uppon an l''.S.l'',, course, lyes many a hank and shoald, some of wlioni I have seen dry in seven, eight, and ton fathani AvattM' ; and tlKM'elore, to avoid wliicli, seventeen or twenty lathani is near enough, and then you have soft, even ground; the hanks ar(> hard, stoncy urounch If vou are entan";led in ice here, you r un great hazar fd, f< or th«> tides iwv. so distracted amongst tlu^se hanks, that it will iccpiire your utmost addi(>ss to scH'ure your ship: when ch;ar, the tide setts east and Avest. As you come towards Ca\)c I [(Mirietta INfaria, you Avill find your soundings mor(> even and ilatt ; a long way ol', a more w lieyish colour, Avhich, as yon sail to eastward, and deapen your water, it grows hIackcM' and hlaeker, until! it hecomes ota (leap galle eoloui' ; and soft ground in twenty or twenty- 1i\ !" fathom from brokcMi ground and shoahl Avatcr in a litlc pths, I'rom fifteen to tw(>nty-four fatham, you sail \"(My safely, taking your soundings from the shore. If you go to (^istward into deeper wat(M', you meet many em- harrissments ; and mor( to westward, is to near the Hear Islands, in latitude 54° 'S^^' , to 54"' I^S', four hirg(>r and many l(>ss(M'. \\iih sundry rcx^fs of rocks, which Avould hook you in, it' \ ou arc^ not verv cautious, in a fo:«', or dark night. Near th(> same latitude, on the west main, is a hlufi* of wood, caled I'oint ^[ourning, from huriing one of Captain James men tlnae. TIk" land to norlliward of this, and \\(\si\Muil ot' the capt-, is all a low tenn_\ unbounded marsh, fiKOfil' AI'llY Ol' HUDSO..f HAY. 5.3 a lillo atliiuii. Idrn iin tell I, you If ly em- Hear many oil in, ufr of [iptaiu , and not to he seen l)ut in very fine weather, so that your lead is your jirinciple gui(h'. Seventeen mih- S.\V, from the Soutli IJear, in the fair May, is a rook, dry at lialf tide, a quarter of a miU" hnv^, I nanu'd Kloateis W^isli, in twenty-five i'atham, close too on all sides ; atul fifteen mih's due; east from the said South IJear, is a rock as hi^h as tlie hull of a ship, one mile in circumference, caled the Cubh, in thirty-five fatham. 'J'hcre is a hank runs lii'teen leagues from the Cuhh towards the North Twinn, with ten, twelve, fourteen, when to the Avcstward you have twenty-two fatham soft ground and black Avater ; therefore, in u.irk and foggy weather, we hold it safest to coast it up along (he west main from iifteen to twenty fatham, which prevents your falling in with those embarrissment, and keeps you clear of Litle Agomisco on the; west main. In latitude 53" 40', where you may shouldcn into (;ight or nine fatham, and is even flatt ground a great Avay off, and haul of to eastward about E.S.E. in t!u)s') depths, till you have broken ground, and in a cast oi *wo, thirty or thirty five fatham near the north-east point of Agomisco. From hence you st(;er S.E. by 8. thirty-two miles in 25, 22, 18, 22, 20. You will come to a dry bank a quarter of a mile long, but the reefs from it may be two mile, N.N.E. and S.S.\\., caled the Gaskitt ; between this and Agomisco is a i)retty good chanile, but disused on account of the broken ground near Agomisco ; the latitude of this bank, by a fine observation, is 52° 'o2', and lyes fourteen miles to eastward of the north-east horn or point of Agomisco. In sailing lu-ar the south and (>astern i)art of Agomisco, you must take care of your tides, which setts nearly N.E. and S.^V., and the tide of ebl) runs pritty briskly, and will sett you eastward amongst the islands, which is not to be ])revented but by keeping your lead strickly fifteen or twenty fathams, and black water will free you from many api)rehensions. ; i V ' n 54 GEOOKAl riY OF HI DSOV HAY. 1 i, After you pass the Gaskitt, you coiue to a ri^c of hard ground, in ten, eleven, nine fatliani,from which 8.S.A\'. hrings you into fourteen, thirteen,, fifteen fiitham soft ground, which is the most you must (^xpect to southward of the Gaskitt ; thirty-two mile west from this ridge is Albany Eoad. in five fatham, and latitude 52° 20', when the fort in the river is west from you twenty-one mile, where a soiuh moon makes full sea, 10' north-westerly variation; fifty-eight miles south from the Gaskitt, you come into Moose liiver lioad, in five fatham, soft but good anchor ground, E. by S. ; seven miles from the North I'oint, the iSorth 131 uif, in going into Moose liiver, tlie coast from Albany to Moose Ixiver, nearer than five fatham, is all banks and broken ground, the land is low and cover'd with woods, and Avinds like a bow ; south from the Northsand Head in Albany liiver, ai'e the Canuce Creeks; tAvelve miles more easterly is Natititia; four miles farther is Noinansland ; a broken point shoots of some dis- tance, S.E. by E., tAventy-four miles from Albany Road, carrys you near this ])oint, in six fatham, near enough ; Kokeishpenny is a litle island four miles more easterly, where the coast Avinds about S.E. by S. ; fifteen miles bring you to AVapisco, another little island, Avhicli makes a bay, and affords anchor ground Avith Avesterly Avinds ; from this to the North Point is eighteen miles, S. by E., in not less than five fatham, Avlicn the point bears S.W. to W.S.W., you are tlien uppon the broken ground, and may run a ground if you are not very carefull of your lead ; this is the rule for dark and hazy Aveather, but Avhcn it is fair and clear, and the land app(>ars true, you may keep in six or scA'cn fatham, and the Nortli Point Avill direct you into Moose liiver lload ; and 'tis to be noted, all the land is cover'd with trees, Avith some litle intervals, Avhich makes it apear so bold as to be seen into ivn fatham from the deck. 'To eastward of that river's mouth towards Indian Head, the tults and huuuuacks appear over that fenny shore here I- cF.oniJ vriiY OF iiudsox hay, 55 c of hard W. brings lid, wliicli Gaskitt; d, in five c river is on makes ilcs south id, in five .^en miles to Moose u-cr than nd is low uth from Canuce )ur miles ome dis- y Road, enough ; iisterly, bring a bay, tliis to ess than 'ou are und if ule for ir, and a! ham, iioad ; m^, with to be Head, (' licj'e es and tliere, but so shaHow, thcne is no coming nigh it, till von come near ti.at head, which Ivs E.S.E. thirtv-two miles from the North Point, in latitude 5V 30', from thence to Point Comfort, E. by N. twenty-seven miles, and so over to INIount Shaddock, E.N.E. twenty-seven miles, is the true distance from the west to the east main. To eastward of Indian Head is a deep bay, which insinu- ates itself into 51° 10', and expands itssclf to eastward twenty-six miles, at the bottam of which is two largci" and one lesser creeks or rivers, on the western and southi rn side of this bay, Seal more northerly, and Onahanna River more sotherly, which comes from Theketowesakee ]Masshishcock, a good place to shoot geese in ; more to eastward in this great bay is another river caled IMsquamisquoAV ; these rivers or creeks verge on Nodoway River, whence the French liulians in all their attempts on our settlements, the whole coasts flatt off. Point Comft)rt is a peninsula, from whence the coast declines to southward into those bays, to westward and east- ward into the mouth of Nodoway River, near the entrance of which is a fine creek caled Thompson's, who, it is said, he Avintered his vessel there ; 'tis to be noted, our first voyagers had such dreadl'ull apprehensions of the deluges in all our principle rivers, that they often grapled with great inconveniencys of another kind ; but noAv 'tis otherwise, and our people make no difficulty of, and shelter our ships and sloops everywhere. This great river, caled by the natives Xotowaes, or Uta- wawas Autawas, Avith a large mouth, opens itsself a passage nearly S. and S.S.E. to a great distances, and falls into the Lakes of Saguina and Tadussock, on the (>astern verge of the Superior Lake, Avhence a small distance into Canada without a carrage ; those Lakes of Saguina, from whence this great river is derived, occupys the greatest part of this side of the country, and at first was the finest hunting M (il'lX.U \V\\\ or in DSON W V V «'( >nntivinall Aninirn; Iml the rotili-sls lulwcrti the I lU'- lisji inul l''v(>nili Iiwlinn'^ \\;\\v so drprdplcd llic RtotKs, llinl it l\;n\d tlir finuily t'vcwtun^s ;n(' st:\tioMiii v. ;\nd 'tis llir stocks ol" tlicso ^vh^Mn (liosc disscntions \\,\\v tlisti o\d. ()i\ \\\v sln>vcs ol' this gvr;it ri\(M'. iuid on the l;d\os H'^j"- cc\\\. \\\r Ont; nvnis occn|n(\ Mud mio m di'^tnirt tni)(>; n win like ]x>t>]>h\ iind :) tcivonr to all the nriohhouicinu Indinns ; lirotpiois; nnd di^ niMthcv tvi\d<- with tln^ ('on\]>:uiy nor the I'ront h : Itnt go annnnllv uiih tho Irrotpioos to trade witli tluin at the l^rittvsh s(MhMn(M»ls on the Lake ()ntario. Von a\ ill peihaps ho a litle snr]>ris(Ml thai ni» othe\- have taken notie(> ol' ihis; hoAV (Atr(^Mnlv kind 1 hav(^ hvcw to this warlike Noloways, or ()ti'uvais. in assigning tlu^n so large a trackt ol' conntrv ; Init th(^s(^ ]>o\vple ar(^ sm-h a terronr to the servile^ Ivihos. that althongh tlu^v tlo not constantly go anniiallv a I'scpn^now hnnting tor thcMr Moody inhin»n\ne sacrilicc, thos(^ \wov crcMtnrcs do this lor them, or ar(^ snre to he that sacrilioe (or th(Mnsel\(^s ; and th(^s(\ when pnuMU'cd. are to l»c t o I'rcMuh Indians, that th<\v wanted soni(> I's- (jnomows t'or tl\(Mr annnall sa(Mitic»\ and that he an '"'^ of llicsc ImIvCS MllJM- !'<' ; M w ;ir- i IndiMiis ; « ; find d(» Ii ; ImiI ^o in Ml flic II pjihaps '«' (»r (luN ; Nolnwijys, conndy ; ic s(>ivil(' niniMlly m NMcrilicc, !)(' tllMl MIC (o ll(> iiois. or or Ola- rsr \(M'y iMooso »ino Cs- iUui Ills II. or l)o n-dimr(> ily. Mild iilps in H's. Mild 1 .J* oidir'd tliii^i' two I'll IK li JmliMM'^ to ( nil . m pnilimi o| tin m to tlir 1 1 loipiooM ( oi {''.liipiiM'^, ii'^ oni I iidiMii'^ I ;dl till III i, iind « liicli (liosc vn \ ()lMnMis nru-i |o liikr, Imt finiii liic liMiuh ol llic livr liMlioihi; niiiii' o( poor I'l^fp'oi m ■■; Voimi^r IIMII (iind lo iimlnlMkr tliis (liiiinrioiis rmliiiHHir • vliif li w lien lir WMM iiiloiimd IIimI lii^ NMclilicr w <\'< Im voiii mImv Mcirplrd, lir (l''jH(pio(Mio\v ) piiltlislics Ills IcMst, Mild iIm K" iry;(ilcs tin iii^fj vrs ovi'r llioso lion id iidiniiiMiio ( iiiiiinoiis «pii(o drIiomiMif. 'Iliis niMltn (d Im( I I hImIc lioiii lliosc tlinl wcio i\r wilin'^sis n\ il. Mild do Kii(liririill\ (•\ iiKc uluil I Ixloir Mdviiiuid, mimI slirw IIM ol wIimI rdMsripiriicr it would Iw to oiii llMdr if wc could u ill tlicsr people over to llic ('ompntiV'^ iiiticKl, wlmf M liiir riontici (liov 'ill iii.dvo 11*^ Mi',Miiist tlie ill' iiixioii^4 (d tlir wood iiiiiiicrM. N»"Mr IIh' moil'- ( ' llii'^ ^loMt liver i-^ one otiirr river, wliicli Inkes M iiiorr » le hcoiii'^e, mikI issnid to Md'ord more WMter, w itii lew. ■ sliMrj)s miiiI (mIN, mikI Iiv hum Ii more I're- cpieiiled liylliest v c trilies of mitix es. Mild ishytlie l''iii (d the iiMtives. our people loiitid it iieeessMry to ^fo over lo the wi-sl iiiMill to selle, mihI look Moose Kiver liy tlie WMV, Mild liiMile M sellemeiit there, hut were dispossesed of it hy the l''reii(h, Miid deiiiollished it in the heiriiiiiiiif^ ol Kinj^ \N illiMiiis reii;ii, Miid hiy so niioeeiipied iiiitill the v'fMr \1'-V,i the ('oiiipMiiy resumed m sellemeiit, Ms is helore mentioned. I'ml the setienieiil mI AIIimiiv Iims heeii tlioii<^lit so eonvenient Mild so eonimodiiHis for liMde. so secure m sitinition from the MUcnipIs (d" Mil enemy, tliMt the tifide here Iims heeii mIvvmvs so considerMhIe ms en^nj^^e the CompMiivs whole Jittrntion, lhi'ou_i;lH)ul IIimI loii;^ avmit Ml'ler the l''r( nch liMd wrested every other |)miI ol' the Iimv iVom tin ui, mI m prodint was taken and retaken, and once fiK()(il{ AIMIY OK III DSON MAY. 59 the M'cstor- Toni roint is the l)est 10(1 clianile hich is the Vom Poinf ttons, and ^outli to a hence by id lioldincr r Otawuis 3vcr since to wester- ns^liam, a use : the seven ty- Lliver. I^harleton "harminfj- castAvavd ' islands, ourtiers, ition ho Avliicli Avai-e- Jut one le east c with d, and er ili(> )iit tlic Eng-- ul dis- of the once \ ] i 'If ii repulsed, but a lew years before tlie end of Queen Anns reign. Fourteen miles Avcst from the south end of Charlton is the Hock of Lisbon, between whom ar(> nuvny shoalds and banks, so that in sailing from the westward you must take care to trav( 1 well to southward before you enter the sound, to avoid the dredfull .' Eight miles from the north end are two small sandy islands, caled Gull Islands. Futher ly's, or according to (irimington, Trodely's,'* a fine, high, bold island, four mile in length, twenty-five miles E.8.E. from the Gaskitt, and X. by E. thirty-two miles from the Kock of Lisbon. Twenty -three miles east from Trodely's are two small islands, called Struttons, which forms a tine sound or harbour, caled riiips's; between these and Trodeleys, about halfway, are two small sandy islands without other names ; the reefs and shoalds from these low sandy islands have always pre- vented our people from striking across through those islands, and are sure to stopp at Struttons and Charletons sounds in the passage to and from Slude River to Albany. Trodely, in latitude 52'^ 40', is uppon the same meridian of Solimons Temple, another island, four mile long, of a nu)- derate height, and lyes E. by N. twenty-tluee miles from the Gaskitt. Lord Westons islands, four in number, is thirteen miles N.N.W. from Solimons Temple, in latitude 53° 00', and are seven miles in length, uppon the westermost of which the Company lost a ship 1T24. The Twinns south end is X.W. from Westons Lslands six- 1 Sentence incomplete in the raanuscript. ^ So in the niiuuiscript. There arc niany sentences in the mannscript carelessly constructed, and words evidently omitted, from which the editor inters that Ca])tain C'oats"s remarks have heen badly copied, and are nut in ids uwii handwritinj'. r III k I ()() (iEOOR.VrilY OF HUDSON HAY. n In M 'I i* 1 1 'I \ teen miles distant, N.E. by E. eighteen miles from the Horn of Agomiseo ; the two islands are about sixteen miles in lenke and dcpeophxl, \k 1 (>2 GEOORAl'lIY Ol' HUDSON IJAY. ;i \ (■ altho' frinds, more than there natural enimies the Usque- mows, when these poor people often make good their disap- pointment, and so arc butchered for God's sake. All the bays, and rivers, and lakes, and creeks, abound "with salmon, trout, titimegg, jack, and perch, etc., and dear, and fowl, and partridges, more plenty full then any where else : foxes, martins, otters, are by much the finest in Hudsons Bay. As these correspond with the Usqiiemow, Ave find they like iron, and iron tools, and fishing tackle, beyond any other thing ; but by the intercourse of the French, they have picked up there guegaws, and ginicracks, and begin to be as fond as the others. Cape Hope, in latitude 52° 40', are one larger, and several small islands, N.A\'. by AV., twenty-seven miles from George's Point, fifty milt>s east from the Gaskitt, in which is a fine cove, secure from all winds, but the south-east, where, for- merly, the annuall ship wintered : it affords some fish, and plenty of wood, but inconvenient for many other necessary's. Those people had such drcadfull apprehensions of the deluges in all the rivers, that they always grapled Avith great difficultys ; so far from the main, where must be had every refreshment, but now is made tolerable, if not dcsireable, by taking another method. Gibbs's Island is in latitude 5'ii° 55' N., fifteen miles due I'rom Cape Hope, and tAvo larger, and divers lesser ; to east- Avards of Avhom, near the main, ly's anothers cluster of islands, called Gilpin s, eight miles east from Gibbs's, Avhcrc Captain James Knight' Avintcred in the year 1G9J2, Avith one hundred ' Captain James Knight ''the governor of the Factory at Nelson's River) conducted an expedition for the discovery of a rich copper mine, in the years 1710-21. They all met with a melancholy end ; and half century piassed away before their remains were found on Marble Island, Chesterfield Inlet. It is stated that in the second Avinter their numbers were reduced from fifty to twenty, and that in the following sunuuer only five romaiued, three of whom did not long survive. The two who remained, fretpiently ascended a rock to look for relief, ;nid v.ould sit X v> oKOfiRArriY or iiudson uw. 6.3 V Usque- c'ir disiiji- , abound md dear, ly Avherc Hudsoiis find they my other icy have to be as i several urcorge's is a fine ere, for- fish, and essary's, of the th great I e\ery ble, by es due cast- dands, aptain uidred clsou's r mine, half Island, iimhers luiuucr o who I sit and tAventy-thrce men, a monument of which stands erected to this day. Sheppards IsLand is, south from Gibbs's, about fiv(^ or six miles, and fifty-tAvo miles E. by S. from Wcstons Islands, and seventy-five miles E. by S. from the Tforn of Acfomisco. They are tolerably high, with some wood ujjon them. Grimmingtons ])ay, where he winterd scverall times, in latitude 53" 10', is fii'tcen miles from the north to south, with many nameless islands in it. 'I'hc coast lyes nearly north and south, and is covered with innumerable litle islands, rocks, and shelves, to a considerable distance from the shore. Trout River, in 53' 40', runs a good way into the country, whence is taken abundance that fish, which Avas a gr^ at re- freshment to Grimington and his men. Sea-llorse Point, near the entrance of this river, is a long point of stones, remarkable for being cover'd Avith those creatur(>s at perticular seasons. Mishshegattee, or the Gn^at Eiver, is in 54"^ 10' N., and extends into the inland lakes, as its name imports. This I'iver, we are told, by its branches and lakes, afibrds an easy communication Avith the Eastern Ocean ; and Saquina lliver al)ounds Avith sturgeon, white Avhales, and all the other spe- cies of fish. The northern Indians before mentioned, would gladly draAV us to setle on tliis river, to get favtlier from the French Indians ; and tliat the TsqucmoAVs AA'ould come ther(; to trade, A\hich Avould make us amends for loosing those few Indians Ave have from the skirts of Ruperts River, and the parts adjacent. 'Tis said here is to be had izing glass, christial, and hnid ore, Avhich, \\ hen one considers Avhat u (lo\vn on tlu'ir return and \vco]i liittorly. At last (so nc avo tnld), ono of the two sunk under his mi. roilnncs, aniHir fellows died (ill', tin re is no rciison to douht. Pl|!i! ■H I ; ( ( ' 04 fiKOfill Vl'IIV OI' IUDSON ItAY, track't of land this ii()l)lc capacious rivci' runs through, is less to be wondered att.' From hence the coast winds out to westward, nearly N.N.W., to Cape Jones, in latitude 5o^ 00', and is the eastern proniontary, as Cape Ilenritta Maria is the western of James Bay, and is one hundred and fifty miles to eastward of that west main. A ery many shoalds, and islands, and embarrissments, covers this coast, that we cannot explain it so fully as we could wish ; and many islands have been new named, and those so named still more doubtfull, that av(> shall sum up all we have to say, — that near the cape is a high broken land, and the coast to northward declines to eastward, nearly N.E., as it does to southward nearly 8.S.E. Near all those islands there is tolerable anchorage, and good shelter under some of them, llvvc is very litle tide, and seldom flows above two foot, but runs to nnrtliAvard always, if not disturbed by the winds. Our two sloops, in there progress to Artiwinepeck in 1744, hauled in with this cape, aiid found a fine chanile between those ranges of islands and the main for upwards of twenty leagues, nearly north-east, and rode and named sundry islands in their progress to Great AMiite Whale River, in 55° 23' N. latitude, with a fine entrance, and a most capa- cious river, abounding with all sorts of fish, of flesh, and fowl ; Avhere those northern Indians reside all the sununer, as well as the greatest part of the winter. This river, by the concurrent testimony of all the Indians, is said, by its lakes and branches, to fall into the Eastern Ocean.'- Uppon the shores of this river is to 1k' had the finest island christial I ever saAV, grows solitary, in mvdtangular forms, of an ^ jVote Jtji Cdptniii Coati^. — 8e(iue.scoin says, it wins E. l)y S. one luin- (Ired uiilcs into a large lalve one liundred and twenty miles over from cast to west ; and that on the eastern verge 8a(j[uinay issues down to Canada, and is full of sharps and falls; that on the northern luid sonthern liorders arc hranchcs into other hikes. '^ This i.s not eorrect, as it fall> into .James's I'av. I 'A \v fJKOMtMMIY OF IH D'^OX HAY. 65 irougli, is :l, nearly id is the ) western eastward nds, and )lain it so icen new that W(> cape is a clines to ly 8.S.E. ind oood ide, and always, in 1744, between twenty snndry iver, ill •^t capa- sli, and ninnier, , by the ts lakes )on the liristial of an 1110 Imn- rcr from iliiwn to Miilieni t exceeding fine water ; lead oar, and i/inglass in many places. These provident Indians reside on this river, where they catch and cnre qnantities offish ; try ii]) the oyl,' and is said to be very palateable, at least not distaistefull when done there way. No Indians in America have a greater afflnence and plenty than these, and Avithont rambling those immense conntrys the others do ; and would be very numerous, wa.«? it not for those diobolical principles that delude tliosc honest, good-natured, idle, indolent, happy people, which shatters and breaks the spirits of these, which are so obnoxious to frinds and foes. The Company has been made sensible of this, but could not I'all on a Avay sooner to shelter these unhap])y people ; which, in all probability, our new setlc- ment at Artiwinipeck will be a means to protect them, and ennable them to keep in a body, by carrying all they want to their doors. In the latitude 5o° 50', is a noble, high, bold island, named the Hill of Portland, N.W. by N., eleven mile from the north cheek of that river; farther to northward is another island, culed ^terry's, in hcmour of one of the gentlemen of the committee ; afford good anchorage between them and the main. From hence is nothing remarkable untiil you come to Lith^ AVliale River, on the N.E. crs. in latitude ;>()' 08', with high bold land on each side a going in. Over a bar, with eight foot uppon it in the midle, is a sunken rock, dry at half-tide, which flows here about four foot water. About two mile within the barr, this river divides into two branches ; one lesser takes a more easterly cours, the larger one a more southerly crs.; but are both terminated by falls impassable to any thing but canoes, one mile above tlu^ Fork Point. Adjacent to the lesser creek, four miles up, cm the sid(> of a very high clitf, is that fine lead-mine so much taken notice off : but is so difficult to bring down, that when above t\v(>iit\ iiicii was employed to i>('t it down, they ' So ill tla- lUiUiUM'rijit. 9 ()(> (;l-',Of UAi'H V OV liUlihON BAY. :l ! 4 had not above un tj luiis and iialt", r.lti.oiigli near three weeks about h. 'J'he'<; is the li -est ehristials in the worUl there ; there is vast slioah: oi' "white •\vhale thcnc^ and other fish in <>reut pk'nty ; pritty wochly within, and niueh grass. N. by E. IVoni this rivers mouth, is a bokl ishmd, five leagues dist. named Bibyos ; from whence, S.S.AV. three mik", runs a hnlge of rock. The coast is rocky quiti' to Gulph lEa/ard, in latitude o()° 22' N., distant a.])out sixteen mik* N.E. by N., where is such a race that the Indians have found a most expressive Avord for, Qua-qua-chick-iwan, — it swalloAvs quickly./ Belchers Islands, four in number, lyes forty-five leagues to westward of Litle AVhale lliver ; by another account, only twenty-nine leagues, in latitude 50' 0()',/vhere I was entangled three days in ice. T found a flood and ebb setting due east and west ; but we drove to eastward most. 1 have made a computation of about four anJ a half miles a day. This increment to esist ward, which is wing to those vast quantities of snow, whirl i. disolves and drains down our rivers from the western shore, amongst whom is good anchor oround. About seven leagues jiorvli from those is a range of islands twenty leagues in length, I Mute(;n larger, and many smaller ; the midle, in 58 00' N. latitude, at the distance of seven- teen leagues from the east main, amongst Mhieh the Usque- mo'v: ;■■ ^'arms all the summer months to catch fish and monhi .; fowl, in great abundance, vq)pon all these. Belchers and Sleeper islands. In latitude 59° 05', m'c told fourteen islands in sight ; and, by my account, the wcstermost is upi)on the same meridian of the North Bear ; and the North Bear is 2'^ 50' west longitude from Cape Diggs ; and Gulph Hazard lyes 2° 05' cast longitude from Cape Diggs, in 56° 22 north latitude. The Sleepers are seven larger, and many smaller islands, from 59° 40' to 00° 05'; the wcstermost is in 59° 50', and is fourteen mih-s to westward of the North Bear, wit^ fine 1 : i s f.KOGRAl'lIY OF HUDSON RAY. .»! '/h iicai- throe s in tlic world ivvv, and otlicr fl iiiuch grass, (1, five leagues roe mile, runs ^nli)li Hazard, mile JNMv by liavc found a , — it swalloAvs lyes fort}'-five ; l)y another 50° OCyN'here flood and el)l> istward most. I half miles a N'ing to those ins down our good anchor gc M' islands my snudler ; 'o of scven- thc I'sque- h fish and o, IJelchers hi fourteen stei-most is 1 the North and Guild) S in 5G" '22 (I' islands, •'>0', and is wit') fine opnings anil good ancliornge ; and many T squc h n-. hjiuim these islands in siunmrr, and hears S.W. hy S. ' \\ '-i" -lSilv. leagues from Cape Smith ; a high, hold, noV.!? » .f r u • So seen twenty-five leagues. In latitude 61 40' N., is the south-west ])ei'iv 'f Mau?^^."' Id, fourti'en miles to eastward of tlie West Slc"]< ?.\ in>,i bear from the south-east point AV. hy S. (Mghteen iniies ; is ex- treamly low and fiatt, and has neither hush nor brake ; hut all round these parts you have good soundings on hoth sides, to 01'' 00' of latitiide southerly, where you cross a ridge of hard ground, sonu' ton leagues from east to west, from twenty-five to forty-five faih. into soft ground to v-astward, — a very useful! obs(>rvation in coming from the westward. The south-east part is ninety-six miles S.A\^M\'. i'rom Cape Di <>■<>■ From the south end of Mansfield, on both sides, is low vwn ground, and pritty good soundings ; hut as you go nu)re northerly, the land is higher, and the coast is deaper and rocky, and forty fatham is near enough on tlu^ east side, and twenty-five fatham on the west side. Near ihe mie'e, on the east side , ar(> tAvo small islands, which woidd afford a good harbour. The X.W. part is fiftieu l-^aguc- ii'om Diggs. On the '.lorth end, in latitude (52^ 3.7 is an inlet of a good breadth, ;.nd runs in some distance ; I ■■," J. think the other is preferable. Tlu^ coa^t all round the nor< a euo ef Mar vlield is dcap Avater and foul , round, and rocky. '. 'n the nortli- wcst part of this isla is a patch of snow, aitout out- mile square, which, in hazy weather, is to he seen when you can- not see th.o ishuul. I named it Silver Patch. There is such swarms of fowl here, uppon this island, tluit it seems incapabh to contain them ; whi'h we meet at sea many leagues off, before avo see the island. Th(> l's(iuemow do vizet this island also, and I'or the same reason. This island, in its form, is not unlike a nine-pin, \y'u\i. its apex to the north, and winds both ways to its base, neurly S.A\ . by S. H f ft: i-' i f I jtt 68 GEOGKAl'IlY Ol" HUDSON KAY. twenty leagues : in latitude, the S.W. point lyes on the same meridian of the North Bear ; the westerniost of IJakers Dozen, in latitude 58° 20' N., lyes four mile to westward of this point ; and the AV'est Sleeper, in 59° 50', is fourteen mile to westward of this point, and lyes eighty-six miles to wcst- Avard of Cape Diggs. Cape Pemhroke, as has been said, is a high cliff, in latitude ()8° 05' ]\. ; lyes fifty-seven miles to westward of the midle of the north end of Mansfield, seventy-six miles more to Cape Walsingham, and eight(>en miles to the cast end of Salisbury, and one hundred and forty-nine east from thence to the west end of Cape Charles : one ajout four leagues distant, and the other five leagues ; so that this note says these two lands are one hundred and seventy-six miles, cast and west, from each other. I'rom Cape Pembroke to CariesAvansncst, in latitude 02° 10', and longitude 7° 13' west from Cape Diggs, or two hundred miles, is an even champain, barren country, without bush or brake, or anything remarkable, save an island named Cape Nesdrakc, where the coast wind about more to westward on the ;uuth side, as it does more to northward on the north side. In the year 1737 I made many observations on this coast, which corooberated so well with Foxs, which I litt of afterAvards, that I was greatly pleased ; and found a languid flood and ebb, Avhich I lost entirely after I passed Caries- swansnest. At Cape Nesdrakc it run one and eight-tenths of a mile ; and at Carieswansnest, seven-tenths of a mile. This is matter of fact, from many essays. From Carieswans- nest to Cape Nesdrakc, the coast is east and west, nearly a broken rocky shore, and forty fatharn is near enough ; you have sixty fatham four leagues off the coast. From thence to Cape Pembroke, the coast is somewhat higher ; Caries- wansnest is a most dangerous cape land. 1 had one hundred and tAventy fathaui iu)t above five leagues from it. It is very low land, and the loast declines both ways many [)oints ; so "9 • % a GEOGRAPHY OF HUDSON HAY, 60 >n the same ol" JJakors i^cstward of u-tc(-n mile Ics to wcst- in latitude the midle s more to v«t end of om thence ir leagues note says miles, cast cleG2°l()', ) hundred t bush or ncd Cape tAvard on ic north on this I litt of languid Caries- t-tenths a mile. eswans- learly a :h ; you thence Caries- undrcd is very its ; so that you must depend entirely on your latitude, which I have sett down with some degrees of accuracy. (Jape Southamp- ton is said to ly more northerly and to westward, to which I can say but litle : oidy when we speak of it, we call it the Southampton Shore, the Southampton Coast, etc. This Carieswansncst lyes one hundred and fourteen miles to westward of the south-west part of ^Iansfi( Id Island, l)ut makes a narrower chanile nearest the north end, as the coast inclines to each other. This chanile I have named the Boke of Mansfield, which has deap water on both sides, and a very low, dangerous coast : add to this, your southerly winds are generally foggy, and those shores collect those opaque vapours, which arc drove through here from all the southern and Avestern parts of the bay : so likewise 'tis more liable to blowing tenipestious weather. And as you must encounter with these difficultys, you will expect I should give whnt aid and lii>"ht I can. In comina^ into this chanile from the south- ward, you may be out in your latitude as well as your longi- tutle ; and therefore it Avill be necessary to take your sound- ings uppon the south end of Mansfield, to southward of latitude of 62" 00' N., for after you are to northward, you fall into deap water eighty or one hundred fathani, unless you come near either shore ; if to southward of that latitude, you have not less than one hundred and twenty fatham. Uppon the Southampton Coast, if to northward of that lati- tude, you shoaldcn quickly ; if to eastward, on the island side, you fall into a deaper water, with a N.E. course, Avhich declines from the island ; and if on the Southanqiton side you shoaldcn, which you may satisfie your self by traAcrsing two or three miles so entred, you boldly sail into ()'S° 00' lati- tude, and then you haill to eastAvard S.E., or S.E. by E., for the entrance of Ilud-ions Streights. When you comt' from the westward, the difficulty is the same; }ou must not dare go to northward of <)2 00' N., least you fall on the west side ol' that low id[)v land, noi much \l £ 1 I 4 1 1 70 GEOGRAPHY OF HUDSON HAY. to southward, least you lose the Ijcnctitt of those souiulinns on tliat sliore, whicli are so convenient for entrin<>- this channilc. If you think it eonvenient to run to castwnrd of Mansfeikl, vou nuiy most coniodiouslv run to eastward in (51" ()()', or 01° 20' N., and may depend on meeting that ridgo I before mentioned from the south of ^[ansfeikl; and then hale N.N.E., or N.E. by N., Avill bring you to Cape Diggs. This was the method they followed fornu'rly ; but we lately have been at liberty to go indifferently on either side of Mansfeild ; and the ehanniles are both nearly of a breadth, but the northerly winds in the fall, makes it necessary to use the western, not the eastern ehanile. In stormy Avether, y'll tell me it is very troublesome to keep your lead in sucli deap water : it is so, but after yo come into forty or fifty fatham, you verge on either side ; and, therefore, this pre- caution is not to be neglected in dark nor gloomy Avether, otherwise, if it is clear, you sail as near either shore as you please, for I dont know of any banks or shoalds at any great distance from the shore. Shark Point, N. by E. from Cape P(nnbrokc, in latitude G3° 30', and in longitude 84'' 30' Avcst from London, and so on to Cape Comfort, in latitude (v5° 00' X., and longitude 80° 10' west from London, are remarkable, for giving the antient worthys some pleasure' when they found the coast wind round to Avestward, but falling into a bay more north- erly : Fox calls it his farthest. These three cape lands, and this bay, makes west side of the North Channilc ; as Lord Westons Portland, in 66° 30' north latitude, and longitude 81° 30' west from London ; twenty leagues souch-east from which is Cape Dorchester ; twelve leagues south-east farther ' Whatever pleasure the ancient worthies may ha\e derived upon this coast, certain it is, that it has not heen vouchsafed to those of modern times. It was off tiiis coast, from Cape Comfort to Seahorse Point, that Sir George IJack was heset in the Pack, in the " fearful voyage of the Terror,'''' in l!S:37, when he miraculously escaped shipwreck. i-i 1 4 c;T:()f;i{ WHY of ir/nsox hay. 71 11(1 ^o itudo the coast lortli- and Lord tudc roin tlicr ! i fe^ f is {'ape Charles, makes the castcru si(h- ot" that North Chaii- nilc. Robert IJilot afterAvards attempted this phiee, and yot iij) into G()° 47' X. on the western si(U> oi this channik? ; but in traversiiif^ here, he tbmid but thirry-fivc f'atham ; and findint;- the hm^ wind away to eastward, and much incumbred with ice, and allso a broken tide, from Ciimberlands Iidet, as he sujjposi's, he (juitted tlie western land to avoid the iiuh'aught of tliat iidet, and stood into Caukins Sound, in Go" 40', where it flow'd liiilitc en Ibtjt water : and an E. bv S. moon makes full sea. To nortliMard ol" these places, no Europeons, it' ever, })cnetrated Irom lludsons IJay or Streii'iits (cxcei)t Midleton in "^ir Thomas lioes Wellcome), lint if we com- pare this with W'm. liaffin in his bay, he traversed from Sir James Lancaster's Sound aIoiit>- that western coast, from 70° Si)' N. latitude, to ().S' 00' X., and saAv that western land, but was obliged to forsake it for the same reason, impassable ice : thus tliese three; worthys saw, but could not accom- plish that most desireable discovery — not into the south sea's, but joyn Hudsons to IJaflins Bay ; and all agree to northward of Lord Westons Portland the land winds away to eastward. If Fox's longitude be true, and you compare* it with Middletons in lte])uls(> Ihiy, you will find that thes(> three persons Avere ])ritty near each other, altlio different in their ^'out ; for in that bay to northward of Cape Comfort, they had but litle tide, and not very shallow water, and that ice, not land, prevented their going further to westward ; also, it flow'd but litle water. Fox says, a S. by E. moon makes full sea at Shark Point ; and 3lidleton says, a west moon, at his 'rozen streiyhts, makes full sea. The liav was full of ice when Fox and Hilot was there ; and the frozen streights has not bi'en clear since the creation, accordingly to ^Lddleton, of ice. The others lost the sett of a tide as soon as they past Cape Comibrt ; and Middleton cales his Repulse Bay a jVIill Pond, in one expression, so that they corroberatc in every I m iii . J i 1 i 1 n \ [■ i 1 < ! [ II ] i 7'> OroriRAPHY OF HUDSON HAY, circumstance, only in his unnatnreall deduction of the times of" liigli water, which it is impossibh to reconcile with an eastern tide. I put no retraint uppon nature, but take the matter of fact as they stand recorded in their own accounts : examine them yourselves ; it ai)pcars so to me. I am not more surprised at ^liddletons asserting this matter of facts, then at ]Mr. Dobbs for not putting that controversie to issm* about his frozen streights and the northestern tide he so much laboured, uppon the identity of those circumstances. These are such glaring ov(>rsight-, in two such able per- sons, as shall be an instance to futurity how mens judgement may be injiired by heat, by resentment, and by a too partial influence to this, or that side of tho question. Salisbury Islands, Notingham Islands, and Mill Island, remains to be spoke too. Salisbury Island is in latitude ().'3° 25' N., thirty seven miles to eastward of Cape Diggs, and fifty-eight miles to westward of the east end of Cape Charles, and one hundred and eighty miles to eastward of Cape Pem- broke ; 'tis a high bold island, about twelve miles long, south, from the east end ; six miles distance, is a litle rock as bigg as a ship, with very deap water round it. Betwen this and Notingham runs a brisk tide thro a sound six miles over: the southermost part is in latitude 63° 15' N. ; is north from Cape Diggs thirty-six miles ; is coverd with many litle islands, which distract the tide in various direc- tions. Sir Thomas Button was at anchor in this sound, and was so farr deluded by the direction of this tide, that he made such deductions there from, as do but litle credit to his memory. This island is eight leagues in length from the north-west to south-east ; from the east of Salisbury to the cast of Notingham the course is W.S.W. eight or nine leagues, and the Avest end is in latitude (53° 50' N., and bears from that cape N.N.W. N.N.W. from Cape Diggs, in latitude 64° 28', are four islands, caled by Fox, Alill Islands, from the ice grinding i GEOOHAPIIY OF IIUPSOV HAY. 73 from ioui iippon them. Cape Charles, on the eastern sick' of the North Channilc, is twelve leagues N.E. from these islands ; these islands, and the main to eastward of the North Channile, arc all high, bold, montanious land, and arc indinted in bays and coves, and the hills are cut and interspersed with valcys, very foul, and rocky, and deap water, every Avherc near then). Many tribes of Usqucmows havmt and reside in these islands, whose shores are cover'd with fowl ; and seas abound Avith some black whale, many sea-horses, seals, and all sorts of oyl fish, salmon, and some others. The Usquemows^ all over the strcights, are bold, robust, hardy people, undaunted, masculine men, no tokens of poverty or want, with great fat, flatt, greazy faces, litlc black percing eyes, good teeth, lank, black, matted hair, with litle hands and feet, under proportion ; a well made back and shoiddcrs ; loyns, buttock, and haunces, well fortified ; thighs are jiretty full, but their leggs taper into a litle foot. * * * * * * * There women weare such an uncouth habitt, as make it extreamly difficult for them to move about at all ; their shoes, boats [boots], and breaches, are all of a peice, sett of to an ex- travigant breadth at top, which holds a child, and half their houshold furniture in each ; her mantua is divers skins, sow'd like our seamcns frocks, a head like a monks cawl, but large enough to put a child in, as well as her head ; this comes ^ The correctness of Captain Coats, in his description of the features of these Esquimaux, is entirely corro'iorated by Captain Lyon, in his narrative of his unsuccessful attempt to reach Repulse Bay in the Griper, in the year 1824. It is impossible to look at the clever sketches which Captain Lyon has introduced in his book, wHhout seeing how faithful is the description Cajttaiu Coats has given of .heir " great, fat, flatt, greazy faces, little black percing eyes, good teeth," etc. ; and in speaking of them. Captain Lyon calls them, " boisterous, noisy, fat fel- lows." — Brief Narrative of an unsuccessful attempt to reach Repulse Day through Sir Thomas /{owe's Welcome, in H.M. sliip Griper, in the year 1824. By Captain G. F. Lyon, R.N., p. 128. 10 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. 1.0 I.I rM ISO ■ 2.5 [Ml 2f B4 i 2.2 MM 1.25 1 1.4 III 1-6 1— ^ 6" — ». V] /# ^^<>' *>.^^ /r '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation iV ^ ,v ri>^ ;\ \ ^v ^ <^' 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 873-4503 4^ o^ I ii: hi . t f * ■ t I' i lii •< \ ; 74 GEOGRAPnY OF Ht'DSON BAY. down tc her breach, and is decorated with party coloured skins, and sowed very neat all along the borders, at breast and hands, with a long tail, three foot and a half long, about six inches broad in the crutch, and, as it farther depends, may be ten inches broad, decorated likewise with a litle loop at the end, which is rounded off: its use is too apparent in so rigorous a clime to need any further explanation ; under this, they wcare a litle pair of breeches, close behind, and bc^forc goes half way down their thighs, and under all, Aveare a smok, made of bladder and beast gut, curiously dry'd, and sow'd very neat, or dear skin, made thin, and not badley dressed, with two or three pair of socks, and their hair ty'd in a roll uppon the fore heads. In this garb, this happy people enjoy a contentment not to be purchased by rubies. The habits of the men arc not much diflerent ; their shoes and boats tyd under the knee ; their breaches a litle longer ; their coats not so long, nor so long a tail to them ; their cawl for their head less, and made to pidl over their broad faces pritty tite, as the skirts are made to draAV over a hoop (the only aperture into their close canoes), in the midlc where he sitts, not much unlike a weavers shutle, if both sides were made curvilinear ; he has one padle, nine or ten foot long, with blades at each end, fortified on the edges with bone or ivory ; thus accutred, they will dart past the ships at a pro- digious rate, at least fourteen or sixteen mile an hour, re- gardles of Avind or sea, for nothing can ent(>r his canoe while he keeps his seat. They have many contrivances to catch foAvl and kill fish of the most ennormous size, very ingenious find curious, and with great facility. These canoes are so tender, and composed of so many litle peices of wood, of whale bones, and bones of fish and beasts, as Avould asstonish you how they held together ; and, lastly, they draw over this peice bitt frame, a covering of skins, made tite all over, and soAv'd on close every where to that hoop where its lord sits in pride and hauty contempt. I have often thought this people are I I / i OKOGRAPHY OF HUDSON BAY. i J coloured at breast ig, about ncls, may :; loop at mt in so ider this, id b(>t'orc weare a ly'd, and tt badley hair tv'd is happy y rubies, eir shoes ; longer ; leir cawl Kid faces loop (the vherc he es -were >ot long, bone or at a i)ro- lour, re- oe while to catch igenious s arc so k'ood, of sstonish iver this vcv, and cl sits in oplc arc I I (4 i of the linage of the Chiiiease,in the many features 1 think I see in them — their bloated, flatt fiices, litlc eyes, black hair, litlc hands and feet, their listlessness to travilling, very fair when free from greese, very submissive to their men, very tender of their children, and are indefatigable in the gew gaws to please their men and children. I have had some of those toys from the children brought to mc by father and mother, to learn them to look at us without trembling, Avhieh shew this peoples great wisdom. These toys are litlc peices of ivory, made in form of all their fishes, all their fowls, all their beasts, all their utensils, men, women, and children ; nay, some to imitate our ships, our ])oats, and our men, litlc canoes, luggage boats, litlc bows and arrows ; in short, nothing escapes their notice ; and even in these childess things, bestow a good deal of labour. As they get vast numbers of seals, sea-horses, and Jeer skins, so most of their habitts arc made of one or other of those skins. The want of wood, and severity of the dime, puts tliis people on eating their victuals raw ; not but we have had litlc stone pots and bone spoons, and other contrivances to dress victuals ; but this, I suppose, may be for their sick or children only, for 'tis not possible to gett fewell for that use. Blubber and seals flesh make up the greatest part of their food ; not but tliat they easily catch fowl of all sorts, and other fish Avhat they please, and do live in great affluence and plenty, and would not, I am persuaded, change their fatt dabbs for all the fine luxurys of the east. It has been said that these are Anthropophagions, and that their cruelty and barbarity is iu)t to be expressed. 1 answer, it is no otherwis(,' than as all the Indians in America do, to sacrifice their enimyes to their god ; and then, indeed, they do partake of human Hesh. Ikit to say it is a delicate, and that they do it at any time when they can gett it, and that it is a favorite dish, I believe 'tis quite otherwise ; for my own part, I see notliing in them to countenance such a hellish i :f 1 n I ■ {,'.. II* ■i > f 76 GEOGRAPHY OF HUDSON BAY. principle, and do think them as gentle and sociable, and more so, since one cave often serves a whole tribe of two or three hundred persons, men, women, and childien, where they live in love and affection, and more unanimous than we can pretend too ; so obliging and so affectionate to one another, when we arc trading with them, that any j)erson may per- ceive what a harmony there is amongst them. That they are idoliters, I am perswaided ; for I have had a bone deity, which they seldom are without in their canoes. The rising sun summons all on their knees, when you hear such a contrast of vocal musick as comes from the lowest recessis of the mind, with such energy and noble contempt as lift these people, in idea, above the common leval of all mankind ; and I daresay they think themselves the favorite people i.f God, and look on us with more compassion and contempt than we do them. For to what reason can we ascribe that great confidence in them, when they singly and alone have put themselves in my hands, but a nobleness of mind, above the low conceits of mean earthly creatures ? All our shining characters in history had this criterion, — suspi- cion, and jealousy, and diffidence, are always esteemed the true intimations of a pusillanimous. Nor does this great confidence' and resignation jiroceed from stupidity, as I observed at Ice Cove ; for while we conversed with t]iese people, both men, women, and children, with all the freedom and cheerfullness in the world, yet, as soon as our people shewed them thev wanted to look into their tents, and trans- gross the laws of decorum, in one instant the women and children retired, and the men had their bows and arrows in their hands as quick as thought ; which, when I perceived, 1 Captain Lyon, in his voyage of the Griper, speaks thns of the great confidence of these poor Esquimaux : — " As we walked to them along high shingly beaches intersecting small swampy lakes, several birds were shot by our officers ; but although the natives saw them fall, they ex- pressed neither siirj»risc, fear, nor curiosity, al»out the guns." — liriej ynrratire, p. 'u. I I. i< GtOGUAl'IIY OF HUDSON BAY. 77 ? All I caled of our men at the intreaty of one old man, and so the women and children came again to their gambols with our people, as before, debonair, and in good humour, and before we parted, brought us two .*r three dozen of young green geese, and eamc on board the ships severall times afterwards whilst we stayed there. These instances shew these people are not stupid ; but their confidence and resig- nation is in a higher jjower, — that power we arc taught to dread, but to dispise all others. So that in these people you see practical philosophers ; what wc should be, what avc are not. Ilow mean and contemptable must we appear in the eyes of these peoj)le ! who, when Ave ap])roaeh them with crouds, and caution, and bustle, and noise, and firing of guns, enough to terrific such hen-lunuted creatures as we are, which makes no other impression on them than extort a laugh, and hasten their way towards us. I have often thought that the book of nature is more evident to (hem than us. The inferiour creatures betr.ay their fear by squ(>aking, chirping, running, or scratching ; but lyons, bulls, bears, egles, whales, sharks, and wolves, shew no signs of fear, but go on uniform in all their habitts and motions unafl'ected with fear, invariable in their gratification of sense. If, as the philoso) hers say, that man, in his composition and passions, partakes of all the beasts of the forest, how difierent are ours to these savages, as wc call them ! In these is such a serenity and composedness on every occasion (not but they are very fond of iron),' that I have often beheld them with great admiration. This is the character of our Usquemows in Hudsons Streights and J3ay, and am sensible 'tis somewhat ^ This is probably a <|uaint insinuation of their pilferini^ propensities, which are not to be denied. Captain Lyon says, that some of tlic natives who visited his shij) were not so violently overpowered by their joyous sensations as to forget that they came to improve their fortunes ; and one most expert fellow succeeded j)retty well in jiicking pockets, an occujia- tion from which fretiuent detection did not discourage him. — /ji/on's Jirief Xdi'rative, etc., p. 137. n 78 GEOGRATHY OF HUDSON BAY. I i different from Mr. Egedes in Straight Davis ; but tliis may be easily accounted for where a nation is broke by war or other calan.'ty. How soon it produces a degeneracy in the peopk^, we need not go from home to verify this instaiice. My sentiments on this people has had so good effect on the present gentlemen in the direction of the Company, that in the year 1749 an attempt was made to setle amongst them, and fix a factory, in such a situation as might secure our people, and accomidate these people to trade. Accordingly I was sent to survey the coast from Cape Diggs down the Labrodore, and collect as many circumstances, and make oUch observations, as was necessary to accomplish this design. But found that coast so wild and barren to northward of Gulph Hazard, in latitude 5G° 22' N., and longitude 2° 05' E. from Cape Diggs, that there was no possibility to subsist Euro2)cons to northward of that gulph, where we cntred and erected Richmond Fort, which will give us an easie access to these people, and accomidate those wandring tribes of northern Indians : a jieople hitherto greatly distressed for want of a setlement to succour and support them from the many enemies these poor people have on both sides. Thus you have our endeavours. God must crown the intention. We have watered ; but God must give the increase. As the motive is truly generous, so God will bless it with his aid. The small share I have had in the execution of this laudable design are entirely from motives of honour and conscience. If I live to see it succeed, it will give me infinite pleasure ; if not, Gods will be done. Nothing from me shall ever intervene ; let those that do, be answerable for it. But enough : 'tis time to resume the geograjihy. From Cape Diggs, in 6-1° 40' N., and in longitude 79° 00' west from London, down the Labrodore coast on the east main, after you are the isles of Diggs Deception : eight leagues S. by W. from that cape, you have a barren, levill, i)lain country, all along to Cape Smith, in latitude G0° 47' N. ; and I GEOGRAniY OF HUDSON BAY. (9 seventeen mile to ■westward of Cape Diggs, which is a high, hokl, brave land, from whence extend a range of mountains, E. by N., to an indetcrmined distance, which tower over that barren, wihl, fenny country. To northward of that cape, are nothing remarkable, but four islands, twelve leagues to northward, caled Four Usquemows. The shores is very foul and stoney all along Avithin twenty fatham water ; but without that, you have a clean oazy bottam. We anchored and sent our boats ashore at sundry places on this coast, and found a gradual discent of the flood as we proceeded to southward. At Cajie Smith, and at the Sound, we found the current sett to northward perpetually, and that the rising of water abnited something of its force, but run to northward always. It rise and fell about four foot water. The sound is near two mile wide, and affords a fine har- bour ; but the barren islands are so scattred in it, that you are never above a quarter of a mile from one or other. 'Tis a good eight mile through, and very rocky, and lyes much exposed to a south-west wind. In 61° 20' are five islands, from whence we had some Usqiiemows, who seem to me to be meeker and modcster, and of a more Indian complection, neither so robust and hardy, nor so undaunted and insolent, as in the str(>ights ; but with a meek, resigned confidence, put themselves into my hands, without diffidence or precaution — a strong evidence of their innocence. I take the more perticular notice of this, because none of our ships ever touched here before. Cape Smith, as was said, is a brave, high, bold promontary, and extends itself, W. by S., six leagues from the adjacent coast on the north side, and nine leagues from the adjacent coast on the south side. Fenny Coast, which is a very low fenny coast, from the foot of that range of mountains before taken notice of, all along the coast to the Point of Portland, in latitude 59° 00', Il' III J :! II i| i 80 CEOfiRAPHY OF III'DSON BAY. and appears, here and there, with litle tufts and hammocks, as you sail along ashore ; but this coast is so lined with islands, banks, and broken ground, that it is not easy to come at it. There is no standing into less than twenty fiitham, no where ; but you meet banks, and rigcs, and broken ground. Near the Point of Portland, Avhich is a high, bold pro- montary, in latitude 59° 00', and near the meridian of Cape Diggs, before which are a cluster of barren, bare islands, I named Duble Dozens, the westermost of whom I caled in memory of my habitation, Limchousc and Ratcliff, with deap water very near them, and foul anchorage. There runs a constant current to northward through them ; the water of gall colour, OAving, as I conceive, to a large mixture of fresh water. These islands are all of them craggy, cliffy, and riseing ground ; very ragged, and many sunken rocks amongst them, where you must be very cautious in sailing through. From hence the coast winds south-east d pritty high land, and deap water, and is lined with isl w thout distinction, to Hopv/cll Hoad, in 58° 00', and do make a fine chanile between these and the main, which may be of infinite use in times to come. I have named them Holmes of Hopwell. From thence to Gulph Hazard, in latitude 56° 29' N., the coast is a brave, high, bold land — in some places montanious, with a botamless shore, and covered with a chain of islands, of sundry sizes, and are distinguished with names, as by the map annexed. These islands form a fine channile, and fine anchorage, which I named Richmond Channiles. The islands covering these whole coast, to Cape Smith, affords a most comodious navigation for sloops, boats, and canoes ; and I doubt not but ships may find shelter in many places thi-o those numbles inlets, which is hardly less than from one mile to five mile wide, and an oazy bottam. The current all along this coast setts along shore to northward about two mile an hour, and I !' if ji) i'Si GEOGRAPHY OK HUDSON HAY. 81 ., the linious, ands, )y the )ragc, ering dious t but nbles mile coast and rises three foot water akeniately. The variation of the nea- dle in 1749, at Cape Diggs, 4ii° north-westerly, and at (iulph Hazard, JilP north-westerly; at the soiith end of Mansfcild, iHi° north-westerly, and at the intermediate distances, propor- tionable. The whole coast, f?om Cape Diggs to Gulph Hazard, is so wild and barren near the sea, that we hardly saw one living tiling, except a fuee crows, gulls, fish, fowl, sea pigeons, etc. The land afforded a sort of rye grass, snow (ho])S, white and purple, without odur, and a creeping bramble, without berrys. Southward of the ])oint of Portland, the valleys grew more salutary, and the grass and shrubbs more mature ; and we found some berrys here and there, and amongst the stones, many sparkling gems, which gave a luster to this barren, silent, inhospitable country. I remark that the grass scams of a better colour, of i more lively green, not so pauled and burnt to southward, then it is to northward of Cape Smith ; that the shrubbs arc in a small degree larger, and the grass is deeper in the valeys on the south side. The barren, bare rocks which border this whole coast, produces no living creature ; even the snow ponds which face the sun, and are sufficiently heated, has not one living thing in them ; no aquatick, no worm, no in- sect, but muskeeta's; no berrys, no seed, no food for Gods creatures, neither by land nor water, for we tryed our netts every where. No wonder, so unrcplcnishcd by nature, it should remain desolate.' And yet I am of oppinion, that the fish of the sea, as avcU as beasts and fowls, are stationary no where, but in their errattick rambles, may vizit this barren ' This desolate coast seems to bear a marked rcseniManco to that discovered by Lieutenant Sherrard Osborn, bite commandinff II. M. Steam Tender Pioneer, who conducted an extended party from Captain Austin's si^uadron (1801), and i)enetrated south-west of Cape Walker, to latitude 71° 50',rnd longitude 104°, a distance of five hundred and six miles, from the winter quarters of the s(iuadr()n and back to the ships, — one of the most remarkable journeys performed in the arctic regions. 11 li H2 (iKOGKAPHY OF Hl'DSON BAY. soil. Tlirir is some snow moss in the valcys, which, I am tokl, the dear are fond of; and nature produces nothing in vain. Ihit I am perswaded their stay is but very short on so scanty commons what I have taken notice of. Doubtk^ss, the natives Usquemows know the time and seasons of those haunts, and nick it, for we found vestiges of them at all the places we stopt att. And O, my consciouns ! I think they are all gone together, for when wc go ashore, there is so pro- found silence, such awefuU precipices, no cackling, chirping, squceking, on land or water ; all nature seams asleep, that wc could hardly immagine ourselves awake, and uppon the earth, nntill we scale those lofty sunnnits, and see those sparkling saphircs, which display'd their ghn-ies on the face of the sun. The sea and sounds affords a fine prospect from thence. I must add, in kindness, there is fine shelter for a ship in stormy weather, Avhen it comes to be well known, in fine coves, fine sounds, and good anchorage ; and that it may be vastly usefull hereafter, I have named those high hills of Hopwell, the islands, holins, and chanile, as is before taken notice of, the channile from twenty-five to five fatham, from two to four miles wide, this note says, and rounds and runs to the point of Portland upwards of tM'enty leagues ; and I fore see it will be of great service to futurity in carrying on the Usquemow trade, which will shelter our traders from ice and storms in their passages early in the spring, when and before those wanderers retire from the main to their summer residence. Gulph Hazard is not above two miles in length into Arti- winipeck, yet M'ind is of little service, the land is so tre- mendous high, and hang over the sound, that the wind, as well as the Avaters, are reverberated by those cliffs ; mainly in this consists the danger, and where the sound is botamless, there are other difficulties, but I'll forbear to say more, be- cause it opens into a fine expanse. The Artiwinipeck appears so finely variegated with mountains, groves, cascades, and I !, GKOCHAIMIY OK limsON HAY. Ki , I am ling in lort on jbtless, f those all the ik they so pio- [lirping, thtit -we ic earth, parkling the Sim. ice. I ship in L, in fine t may be . hills of )rc taken am, from md runs and I rying on from ice ^rhcn and summer nto Arti- i so tre- wind, as nainly in otamless, nore, he- appears des, and catcracts, — vales so adorned, with trees and tine m((hU)\vs interspersed here and there, tliat I was strnek with achnira- tion when 1 first saw it : I phiinly saw such a su(hhu aUera- tion in the face of nature, as gave me a most agreeahh' surpri/e, in sailing hut two mih* through the gulph. I'ppon the bay side is nothing to be seen but barren rocks, and jjarched vales ; no herbage, nor trees, nor shrubbs ; and the litle verdure there is, is so pauled and sickly, and tinc- tured with those rusty waters, as makes it offensive to look att. But here all is florid and green, the verdure so I'resh and lively, the woods in such decorum and statelyness, as shew us those kindly vapours and cfHuvia they suck from the waters of this sea Artiwinipeck. I r(>mark that all along the coast down to Artiwinipeck, there is no regular tide, and that it is entir(>ly under the go- verment of the winds ; that ^itlc languid nu)tion it has setts to the northward. AVhen we lay at the Decoy, we could perceive it rise and fall three or four inches alternately, as the wind blow'd fainter or fresher ; likewise, we found at Smiths Sound, at llopwcll Head, and at the gulph, it con- stantly set along shore to northward, and Avhich was (quicker near the capes, and more languid in the bays. We observed the tides had been considerably highe; in all places at perti- cular times, which confirms me in opinion, that it is entirely under the influence of the winds ; and the luminaries have very litle or no effect on these tides, as I very carefully noted, when I observed them at full and change of the moon. And as we had fine wether the whole time, so the influx was in a manner insinsible ; and this I collected from many trials in all those places at the Decoy at Smith Sound, where the coast lyes with an inclining angle : there it swells higher by three or four foot, but at other places, near points or cape land, I never could perceive it rise above seventeen inches at Lady Lakes Grove, whereas at Richmond Fort it flowed four foot at spring tides. These places are but four- vf ■ i IH I ); ' 1 I I ^i ir Mt f m dson hay. S.j tlon of CllUSC'S istiuui; lie the Tses by nor at c above Kike no jwert'nll inllvul- ancl so the like spropor- t it is ju) cc of th(> ill north- ed nic in here can lountains, conceive, y seldom , but are iflght and lives were torth-west s without wo inches storm lit Icn inches |ond Fort, ud which ordinary seventeen If my conjecture liohls j^ood, it will sui^iifest to ii^ u pro- babilitx ol" (Indiny; a inoie commodious passaufe down to .lanu's's Hay, which, in all Hkclihood, is much sooner disin- cumbred of ice, l)y those con>tant (h\iinini( currents iVom the lands, and the icficcted winds -which ch-ars this coast and expands the atmosphere. JJut tlic determination of 'his con- jecture, and some others, must be h it to futurity. I say, if our ships coidd avoid those immense bodys of ice in goiiii^ (h)wu that bay (wliich makes that voyajj:e always precarious), it would t(ive a s(>ciirity to that naviufation and setlements as M'ould free them from many anxious concerns, which, as it is, makes success doubtfuU. From Cape Higgs to Sir Thomas Sniitlis Sound, is a bar- ren, plain coast, and foiu ground four mile of into twenty fatham, wlicre you fall into an oa/y bottam ; from thence to the ]*oint of rortland the coast is u low fennv marsh, with litle tufts here and there, but is so cover'd by banks and broken ground, that there is no coming nearer than twenty or twenty-five fatham. ]*oint of Portland is the northermost ])romontary of the high lands, but is so covered Avith the Diible Do/ens, that it most remarkable for its lieith than otherwise. From thence to thcCulph of Hazard (called in Indian, (hia-qua-cheek-a- wan), is a most bold coast, to be seen many leagues of att sea, and cover'd by high, bold islands, which make a fine channilc between them and the main. Those to llopwell Head are so like one another in form, make, and size, that I dared not make other distinction than Holms of Hopwell, least my successors should cavill with me. IJut to southward of that liead, down to the gulph, arc so remarkable one from another, that I have not scrupled to assinc names to all of them, and distinguish them so to futurity, so necessary to make this coast inteligable. Ihit all along that coast you have pretty deap water, untill you come near the verge of those islands, where is foul i^ i u If i!'^^ 86 GEOGRAPHY OF HUDSON BAY. broken ground ; and from Solitary Islands to the Comittccs, is a ridge from thirty-five to fifteen, which may hereafter be of good use when better known, which is not less than seven leagues from the main. As our boats went through the chaniles of Hopwell a?id Richmond, I am informed there is very good anchorage every where, and many fair sound and inlet through those chains of islands, and that nothing but a iitle experience is wanting to make it the most commodious navigation in the world ; and I should think it no hard task for a small boat to go from Cape Diggs to Slude River. We viziited all the highest mountains in our progress, which overlooks that country to a great distance, but ob- served neither bush nor braquc, but a sort of snow moss here and there in the declivities ; in the vales is a sort of rye grass, some snow- drops, vilet and white, without odour ; on the bare mountains it is not casie to conceive how they are heated, and I suspect this to be real cause why this country is quite forsaken during those heats, which warms the air to such a degree as banish the cold wether game from these parts, and so both beasts and men do ramble by neces- sity. Tf I conjecture right, the spring hunts will answer best ; for, altho we saw no living thing uppon the land or water, except what is befor taken notice of, yet we saw evi- dent marks and traces of men and beasts and fowls in every place we touclit att all along the coast ; but is so barren, and the verdure so languid and sickly, the sudden change we met in passing through the gulph gave me a most agreeable surprise. When I first cntred the sea of Artiwinipcck, I was struck Avith the amazing grandour and beauty of the place, those sstonishing mountains which border the sound arc so adorned with such beautifull verdure, and trees in such docoriun and order, as if art had conspired with nature to make those trcmendious hills more delightfull, where those rows of evergreens ascend stratum super stratum up to their mittccs, after be n seven igh the there is md and ling but modious lard task rer. progress, but ob- noss here rt of rye dour ; on tiow they Avhy this eh warms ame from by neces- lll answer |c land or saw cvi- in every irrcn, and Kange we I agreeable ,'as struck lace, those Id are so in such I nature to lerc those Ip to their GEOGRAPHY OF HUDSON B VV, 87 very siimniitts, form a most dtlightfull border, and down to the very sea, to adorn and embellish that prodigious moun- tain. On the right appears Lady Lakes Grove, under a stupend- ous mountain, from whence fall a vissable cascade, which throws itself in serpentine folds in many streams through that grove into the sea, refreshing and enlivening all the verdure near it. Artiwinipeck, open to your view, presents you with an in- closure of high mountains such as is not in the known world, whose skirts and borders arc so embellised with woods and grass and 2)lains, and interspersed with low islands here and there, some covered with woods and grass and cverg'-eens, and others bare and barren at convenient distances, as make a most delightful! landscape, and as if nature had been re- solved to make the contrast inimitable. And it is not casie to conceive what an intense heat those barren bare rocks and mountains acquire during the summer months (which arc natures hot beds), and which warms the air to such a degree as setts all nature in a high ferment ? and we our selves are not a litle affected with those sultry blasts. The sea contributes its part by affording plenty of water, and is so indented with points and islands innumerable, scattered here and there, as never to be boisterons nor dan- gerous, near which you have anchorage and anchor ground every where. The bottam is covcrd with fine muscles, and sea-eggs, and clamms, and spouts, and scallops, and other shell-fish, which allures those shoals of fish you see come through the sound every day, as well as those salmon, titimegg, and lake fish, which abounds in every place within the gulph. 'J'he seels in the gulph are innumerable, and the fish-fowl covers the waters uppon the influx, but rest and retire on the ebb. The hunting grounds all shoAv how well they arc stockt at proper seasons ; partridge and ducks always thus furnished 88 GKOORAI'IIY OF HUDSON »AY ff for the siihsistaiK'o and rccrration of fish, of fowl, of boasts, and men, we had some reason to expect to m(x>t with tlie footsteps and traces of many tribes of Indians, which we did every Avhcre in onr progress ronnd that sea ; and deer in herds, not only in those nnntl^erless declivities, bnt on all the islands we tonched att. In short, such is the beautifull situation of Lady Lakes Grove, the awfull grandurc of ]Mount Eden, the delightfuU groves of Grove Sound, the towring grotto and inchanting vine yard, and elegant situation of Richmond Fort, and the inimitable borders of AVinters Mort Lake, as is not to be parrelled in Iludsons Vnxy, if in the whole Avorld. Thus much in justice I must need say, and recommend it to posterity, to add, to alter, and correct my faidts and mis- rejiresentations, improve my hints if they deserve it, confirm or controul my conjectures, and so they shall do an acceptable service to truth, to the company, and to mankind in gcmeral.' As for the interior parts of the Labrodore, it is wholy oc- cupied by the northern Indians before taken notice of, who live and depend mostly on fish and deers flesh ; woolves, foxes, and otters, afl[brds cloathing ; and as these are to be had by traps, and ginus, and other contrivances, their neces- sities nor ambition dont prompt them to desire many things from us : our twine, fish-hooks, ice chizzels, ketles, and small wares, make up the ultimate of their wants. As for guns, powder, and sliott, their arc numbers of them dont know their use. The moulted fowls at proper seasons, and what else may he had with the bow and arrow, procure enough for cnangc of dyett, wdio live in great plenty otherwise, do reduce these peoples wants into a narrow compass. ^ It is eviileut from this observation, that these remarks were intended to be preserved to posterity ; and it must be admitted, that although a century has ehipscd since they were written, they contain much inter- esting matter worthy of being preserved among the works of the llak- luyt Society. I! ! ! ! i ill (;i;()(;i{ M'li V oi' mnsoN hay. 8i) boasts, •ith the wc (litl (leer in 11 all tlic y Lakes ^lightfuU chanting , and the lot to be iimend it and mis- t, confirm acceptable 11 general, wholy oc- cc of, who : woolves, are to be leir neces- any things , and small tor gnns, lont know and what re enough lerwisc, do Ivcvc intenflcd It although a much intcr- of the lluk- The skirts and l)orders of Labrodore are hilly and moun- tainous on every side (a small part excepted^ ; but the interior parts is covered with lakes and morassis to a wide extent, which affords an easy communication into all our principal rivers ; but as above, these peo])le have their food and rayment on so easy terms, that hardly one in twenty have ever taken the trouble to go to ours, or any of the French setlements. Indolence and idleness has a good share in this indifference : but surely tis a mark of great wisdom in them. However, those few that has frequented the setlements, begin to like our commodities better ; their women like our nicknacks and guegaws, and the men begin to love brandy, bread, and tobacco, so that a litle address and manage- ment will bring these happy drones out of this profound lethargy. You'll say these people would, from their manner of life, have increased faster than the other indians ; but the reason I gave before has, in some measure, prevented them ; and now it will be a good motive to apply themselves in earnest to the use and defence of the gun, who, by the aid and convenience of our setlement at Richmond Fort, will be enabled to keep in a body, and repell force by force, without being divided, or under a necessity to travell a great distance from their fiuuilys, by having all those things brought to their own doors. All the hilly and mountanious parts of Labrodore arc occupied by the Usquemews, from the bay of Saint Lawrence on the southern, eastern, and northern borders, and all along the east main to 56" and 57° latitude, and on all the islands adjacent, w^ho are the seamen and fishermen on salt waters, as those are on inland lakes and fresh water rivers. Both one and other g(>tts great quantities of deer ; but whales, seels, and sea-horses, are the principle support of the Escpic- mews ; wether these retreat and retire to any distance from the sea side uppon the approch of winter, or are wearid with 1 I) I M ; : f Ij I I ! 1 I \l' ■' Ii 90 (;i;()Gis, so alert and s])riry bordering northern Indians avc have Ix-fore attempted to discribe, but it came on blowing Aveather and prevented my making further re- marks ; if I conjecture right, the allarums av(> gave last year at Diggs, at the Four EsquemcAvs, at Cajie Smith, at the Decoy, at ITopAVcll, and at the l)oz(nis, had excited their curiosity doAvu to the sea side to be satisfied, for they had nothing to trade but their breeches, of Avhich I have a sam])le. What remains to be added to our geography, is a Avord or tAvo on the s('asons proper to prosecute this navigation. And as it is very ha/aru:)us to enter the streights before the Ix^gining of. Inly, for ice, so it is dangerous to be in that bay after the middle of September ; the gales of wind and snow setts in for a continuence, Avith very short calm intervals ; the severe frost fire such that you cannot Avork a ship ; pos- sibly as the frost prevails the Avinds decrease, but to what purpose ? Avhen blocks are locks, and ropes are bolts, and sails can neither be taken in nor left out, is surely the last r^,^• "al GKO(JKAlMIV OK HUDSON HAY. \n ciivc to a single )ino\vai(l contrary Iter, and CSS tlu'iv )f l)rca(l ; ians arc ; icccption, ose at the cliilldrcn, cer skins, 1 fatt and ;r(' as tho nortlicrn It it came rthcr rc- last year th, at the ited their lor they 1 have a IS a word lavigation. l)('forc the n that hay and snow- intervals ; l^hip; pos- ut to what |l)oUs, and ly the last 14 extremity ; the new ice near the shores and rivers, and the wash ol' the sea, stick to your ship and ropes like hird-lime, cand in your sails like pitch, and so all opjx-ratioiis j)y water ceasis, in the northern parts of the hay first, and so south- ward soon alter : the winds on the land ai'e vaiial)h', and yon have short intervals of fine weather in the day time, nntill the end of Octoher; hut those violent i^ides of frost and snow are so frequent, that all our craft are put into winter quarters; when the rivers are covered with ice, and the shores arc; lined to a great distance, and water (lisai)])eares, the land cloathed with snow, then i)revales those; violent ])iercing winds, which no creature can face for a continuence (except some short intervallsj. And so apprehensive are our jx'ople of heing caught out in those fiightfull (hilts at any distance I'rom the factorys, that they never suli'er a stranger to go a how shott from tin; palisai' without a person of exoerience with them. 'i'hose terrible snow drifts and dark condensed fou^s are hardly to he guarded against. Kven the most ex])erien(;ed men we have, have l)(>en at times jiut to great extreamitvs. Thus I have given you my sentiments on every part rehiting to this voyage ; youi own prudence must su])ply whats want- ing; and as these remarks may be of pecuUier use and ser- vic' to you in your ein])loyment to and from that countrv, so it will be necessary i'or you to conceal tlies(> re-marks from even'v other person. And I charge you to keep them s(>cret, least others should draw consequences from them I never intended, to the prejudice of the lludsons Hay Company. But if at an\^ tim(> hereafter the CJompany should reject you and spurn you from them, and deny you a moderate employ- ment, ui that case von are at liberty ; and it i s my wil aiu comnnuid that every part be nnvde publick for the use and henefitt of maido nianv notes, and l)Ut very few have had 92 OFAHJK.VrilV OK IILDSON HAY. Uf !i more cxp|)ortui\itios to ('X])lain tliis goograpliy. 'I'lio mcannoss and contoniptablo ap|)lication I have drawn r(M[nirc some indulgence; ; l)ut tlio hydrogrii- I>hy(all parts arc so well adjusted, and with such care, that I do willingly subniitt th(>ni to the test of time. 'Thus I conclude, with my prayers, that (lod that he will give you a right use of them, and conclude, Yoril AFIK.CTIONATE FaTIIKU. t 1 I ; iiiii this ratit)!! I aic, that t he will A Pr KX])A(i K. lThku. * \'()KK Fort is 10 I.")' west longitude tVoin the north ciul of iMansfciid ; also 11" 1-5' west loiiL^itiidc to tlic west main, in latitude 5H" 00' N. It ilowed in Ham Sound 1) Ins. 4*)' on tlic full and ( lian^c oi' th(^ moon ; hut the tide run iintill 10 lirs. '.]()'. It Howes on tile coast from 'led Head to Ihukaiine> nearly Ins. hV, or S. by W. I'ull and eliani(e, and runs lialf'-tide. Ihiehanuess is in latitude 57" 'lo N. ; variation, 14° 'oO' rtl nortli-wes terlv, 'riu> course iVom Hattei-y Head to South ]lot\alsa is X.N.W. twenty-five leagues ; and tliis is conh.ined hy sundry ex])e- rimeuts. Cape iicrietta Maria is in longitude; H4° 00' W. from 1/OluI on, or f -f \V. f rom (J ipe I) liilis. East 13arrow Island is twelve mile to northward of Hoy Head, and seventy-eight ditto to westward of ditto. Hoy Head is in laiitude 58 55' N., and longitude •>' oO' A\'. from London. Stack rie hears fro'n Hoy Head W. ^ N. eleven leagues. East Barrow to Hoy Head, E.S.E., tw(>nty-six leagues. Cape of Rcs(duti'ii to TS'ix Compestriss. cours X.W.hy W. sixty-six mih's, in latitude (52° 04' X. Observed in latitude (55^ iiO' N., when Upper Savage I'le bore N. i E. five leauues ; variation, -W oO' north-westerly. I'rom ( ape Diggs to the north, and nearest j)art oi .Mans- feild, hears E, and W . Hfty miles. Hi I 94 (iKOUllAl'IIV OK HUUSOX l»\Y. From Cape Digf^s to the Wv-t Main, in latitude (>0' 00' X., is 1()° W. lon to (Japo Diggs. From Cape Diggs to the -west (>iul of Cape Charles, is iiim!ty miles east, and twenty-two miles northing. From Cape Diggs to the Cajjc of Resolution, 14° 20' E. longitude. From the Cape of llesolution to Cape Farewell, 19° 1-iO' E. longitude. Confirmed, whose latitude is .)9° 40' X. From C. Resolution to the liast IJarrow Islaiul, ()2" 25' Fi. longitiule. From Cape Diggs to C'arieswansuest, 0° 20' W. longitude ; ditto, to Cape Nesdrake, 5° 45' west ditto ; ditto, to the West Main, in latitude 59° 45' X. ; 15° 00' W. longitude ; which is a low, levill, barren land, and tolerable soundings in fifteen fath., four mile from the land. Moulting Island, in latitude 59° J35'N., one mile and a half from the shore, is thirteen leagues N.^^.^^^ from Usqucmow Point, and is remarkable. Observed in latitude 02° 45' X., when the north -^nd of Mansfeild bore south five leagues; I^iggs, E.S.E.; Xothing- ham, E. by X^. ; and run east forty mile, when Cape Diggs bore south five leagiu^s. From Cape Diggs to C Resolution, 14° 02' E. longitude, in seven davs. From the east end of Cape Charles to the east end of Salis- bury He, is fifty-eight miles westing, whose latitude is C2°42'N. REMARKS IX SAH.IXG INTO HAYS RIVER. If Bony of the fair way uppon the flatts, bears from the beacon in I'ive Fatham Hole, X.E. by E. and S.W. by W., five mile, and lyes in ten foot water. Rouv in that hole bears from the beacon N.X.E. 4 E. and H)0'N., llivcr is arles, is r 20' E. r 1^0' E. S2° 25' E. ngitiuU- ; tlu.' Wrst • ; Avhich in iittrru .ml a lialf h -nid of NotUing- pc Diggs [)ngitu(le, of Salis- Ititudc is .\ri'i:M).V(;i:. J).> S.S.W. r, \\'.; and from the bony on thr soutli point of Stones, N.K. 2 N. and S.W. \ S. ]5ouy of llu- sonth point of Stones, to the bony of the rj)pcr Hole, N.N.l'i. :, K. and S.S.W. ^ W. 'J'liat bony lyes Avitli t\\v Ix'cons on the ^^al■sh Shutt in one, and bears A\'. l S. and K. [, \,, in fifteen foot at low ^vater. I observed in latitnde OH' '.iH' N.,near Tort Xelson shoalds, 1(5° 00' north-westerly; variation by snndry azinionths. Ditto at Eive Jlole, latitnde oT^ !()' X. Confirmed IT-'W, 40° longitude from l^squemow Point, 2" 20' E. ; but to round the shoalds, \r ']')' E., in miles seventy-four or eighty-two ditto. Stone Itiver is sixteen miles from York Fort, and bears from Five Eathani Hole E.S.E. ^ S. From Five Fatham Ifolc to Cape F)iggs in eight days, l;r 42' E. longitude. From (/ape Diggs to Carieswansnest, in 02° 15' latitude, "t" ol' W. longitude; from t]\^.t low point the land trends X. by E.; five leagues off you have one hundred and twenty fatham. I observed at York Fort the latitude, 57° 00' X\ ; ditto, when Stone llivcr bore S. I W. 57° 25' X . ; dist. five leagn(>s in seven fatham. X.Ii. Keep Hungry Bluff S.W. i S. The Point of ISIarsh, W. by S. is th(> best water ; 'tis three miles from the factory to the beacons on the Point of ]Marsh, and it is two miles and ten vai'ds athwart from hi"h water m..A to ditto at the factor 7' trom the by W., |a E. and REMARKS ON THE TIDES ADJACENT TO THE CAPE SOUTH AM I'TON COAST AND ELSWERE. In latitude 62° 15', longitude 5° 46' W. from Diggs, in forty-six fatham, mud at 10 a.m., a slack. Four leagties from land, in forty-five fatham, mud at 7 p.m., it set one mile and eight-tenths E. by S. i S. r 96 OK()(iU\l IIV itK IIIDSON 1!\Y. Tn latitude ()1° ',(;' X., 7° 1:}' \V. Iiom Dig^S it set at 1 I'.M., .seven-tenths of a nul(> X.W. ; in one hnntlvecl and twenty fathani, soft ground, Caricswansnest north six leagues. At 2 P.M. it sett four-tenths of a mile E. by S. ; latitude, mr 48' X. At 5 i>.M. a slack ; longitude, 13° 9" .7. from Cai)c Disju's. on At 8 P.M. it sett five-tenths of a mile W. by N., in seventy- six to seventy fathani, ouzy. At 8 A.M. ^vc had a shick ; latitude, 61° 51' N. At 12, noon, it sett six-tenths of a mile S.S.E. ; longitude, 1()° 00' W. from C. Diggs. At 2 p.:m. it sett four-tenths of a mile N.X.W. At anchor near Whale Cove, in twelve fatham water, hard ground, fifteen islands in sight. At 2 p.m. it sett six-tenths of a mile W. by N. ^ N. ; lati- tude, 6r 30' N. At 5 P.M. it sett four-tenths of a mile N.E. by N. ; longi- tude, 15° 4(5' AV. from Diggs. At 9 P.M. it sett fovir-tenths of a mile N.E., in forty-two to forty-five fatham water. From Five Fatham Hole to the cast end of Notingham Island in five days, 14° 46' E. longitude. I observed in latitude 58° 42' N., when Flannil Islands bore S. by E. six leagues distance. I sett the north end of Lewis Island bore S.W. by S. about seven leagues ; East Barrow, N. by E. g E. five leagues ; the West Ba^ ow, N. by W. ; and are three mile asunder. LcM'is Island, on the north end, is prett levell and cliffy ; the south part, mountainous and hilly. East Barrow Island is in latitude 59° 05' N. and longitude east from liesolution, 55° 12' E. I observed in latitude 58° 43' N., when Pictland Skcrrys bore W. by N., and the south end of Ronalsa bore N. by W. six leagues. r Al'PKXUAGK. iVi it set at lied and leagues. latitude, am Cape . scventy- ongitude, (\.t anchor L ground, N.; lati- »f . ; lony;i- rty-two to otingham il Islands y S. about gucs ; the asunder. difFy; the longitude d Skcrrys N.byW. Bv another account, Girdlcness is thirtv-sevon miles to eastward of Holm Sound. 1 stood of five miles from Mo( kbegger into twenty fatham, and tacked when liaisbrough Sand bore east twelve mile. Flambrough Head in latitude 54^ 05' N. ; in steering north it carryed us twenty-one mile to eastward of Buchannes.s. IJy this account, it is longitude V 5(i' W. from London, and its latitude 57^ i35' X. Stock and Skerry in one bears N.E. by E, four nules asunder. From London to Resolution made 64° 30' W. longitude. I observed in latitude (il" Jil' N., when Ca^ Warwick bore X.W. by W. I observed in latitude 62° 10' N., when the ^liddle Sal- vage bore E. 3 S. iivc leagues. I observed in latitude 62° 26' X., when Salvage Point bore N. by E. ^ E. four leagues. I observed in latitude 62° 59' N., when cast end of Salis- bury bore N.E. by E. ; west end of ditto bore X.E. by N. ; east end of X otingham, X". ^ E. ; west end c ditto, X. ^ W. ; Cape A\'alsingham, W. All well defined. X^.W. from Cape Henrietta Maria you have broken ground from five and a half to eleven fatham, in those depths we steered, untill the Cape bore south six miles, when we dropt into ten, twelve, fourteen fatham oaz. I observed in latitude 55 15' X^., when the Cape bore W. by N. seven miles ; longitude, 4° W. from Cane Diggs. From Cape Henrietta Maria to latitude 53° 16' N., and eighty-one miles to eastward, I set the Xorth Twinn from E. by S. to E. by N. ^ N. seven leagues ; Viners Island from S.W. by W. to "VV. by N. about five leagues. When the east end of Agomisco bore S.W.,the east end of the North Twinn bore E.N.E. I went from the ship in Moose River Road, and rowed 13 !! M li I ■• 1 '. i 'I ! 11 f)8 fiEOfSK MMIY OF limsON HAY. into tlic luontli of tliat river as follows : North niiifr,\\'.N.\\\ jit () las. 2'', ))ast the outer bony in four fatliams ; (J hrs. 5G' past the second bouy, three and three quarters fathains ; hrs. 58' past the third houy, three and a (piarter fathanis ; 7 hrs. 08' ditto fourth bouy in three fatliams ; 7 hrs. 15' ditto fifth bouy, tln-ee, oiu- foot less ; 7 hrs, iii^' ditto sixth bouy, two and a half fathani ; becons, two and a half I'athanis. "W'e returned on board by 9 h. 47', and rowed four mile an hour. At the North Sand Beacon, three and a quarter fatham best water; seecmd ditto, three ditto; tiiird ditto, three and a quarter ditto ; fourth ditto, three ditto ; fifth ditto, three and a (juarter ditto ; sixtii ditto, three and a half ditto, bceon ; seventh ditto, four and a half ditto, bouy at Ship- hole. From the bouy in jNloose River Road 'tis six miles to the North Point ; twenty-one miles N.N.W, | W. to AVapisco ; nineteen miles N.W. by N. to Cockishpenny ; twcnty- foiu' miles N.W. by W. to the bouy of the Fairway, at the entrance of Albany River, liy keeping in five fatham is a surer way to find the l)()uy. I observed i.. latitude 51° 40' N., when the bouy bore S.S.A\'. two miles ; North IJluff, AV.N.AV^. six miles. I came out uppon a neap tide. 'J'he bar begins half a mile Avithout the Sand Heads, and is one mile in breadth ; we liad not less than fourteen and a half foot. N.IJ. — As a memento, when the Sand Heads are covered, vou have above twelve foot uppon the bar. The south end of Alansfcild, in latitude 61° 40' N. lyes up])on the meridian of the North Bear ; the West Sleejjcr, in latitude 59° 50' N., is sixteen miles to westward. From Moose River Road to the Gaskitt, fifty-eight miles northe ; from thence to the South Bear, fifty miles westing ; and 2° 00' E. longitude from thence to Cape Diggs. And by computing your time at five miles a day, it will pritty nearly Ai'n.M).v(ii;. S)i) ff.W.X.W. ; lirs. 50' •s fathams ; vv fatlianis ; rs. l.V ditto «ixtli bouv, hams. I four mile •tcr fatliairi , three and [litto, throe hair ditto, y at Ship- lilcs to tlio A\^apisco ; ; twenty- 'ay, at the itliam is a louy bore I came [c Avithout (I not loss ito, when c'lvc foot r X. lycs leopor, in Iht miles Ivcsting ; I And by nearly account for that easterly current you have from C. II. Maria to Man>frild. From buttons lies to Silly in twenty-tMO days, 50° .'>()' K. loni^itiide. From Uattery Head to Holm Sound, \. ])y W'., twenty- five leagues. From London to K(>s()lution,();r 50' E. longitude, in latitude 01° 40' X., Aviiere is a litle island five miles from the Fast lUuff, Shut in bear, X. by F. J5y another account, O-j oO' F. longitude. Cape I'squemow, in latitude (JF lO'X'., longitude KJ' 40'\V'. from Cape Diggs, appears like Knights Hill nc.u' Cape Churciiill : make in a point, and you hav? broken gi'ound, Avhich distracts the tides and turns them in eddies and over- falls. W'c had thirtv-Hvo, twenty, thirty, twentv-live, twenty- seven, twenty-five ; black peper, mi\t with yellow shells, hard ground. Cajjo, X.X.W. five leagues. Cape Fembroke, in latitude Oo' O-V X., fiity-seven miles east to the north end of Mansfeild ; seventy-six mile> east to Cape \\'alsingham ; eighteen mih^s to the east end of Salis- bury : and our crs. was E. i X'. one hundred and lorty-nine miles to the west end of Cape Charles : all in twenty-i'our hours. Fr(nn Capc^ I^igg^ to Resolution, 14 18' E. longitude. From liesolution to the East Barrow, ()2^ '20' E. I observed, in latitude 58° 47' N., when it bore N.N.W. seven leagues. Europa Foint-on-Lewis, W.S.W. nine leagues. Cape Wrath, S.S.E. nine leagues, Ave run in sight of LcAvis Island tAventy leagues : the southermost parts are very high land, but the north end is pritty levill. From liesolution to Hoy Head, 04° 30' E. longitude. All remarks to Resolution confirmed. I made but 58° W. lonu;itude from Hoy Head to Resolu- tion ; but Avhcn you compute the errors in latitude southerly, hi \ '. !^' r>. ,: 'rjli Ui u 1' I i 100 GKOGU.VrHY OF HUDSON bAY. ill twcnty-onc clays passage, in a current nearly S.W., four and a half mile a day ■\vcsting, this being digested in the log, I am perswaded it will reconcile the outward and homward bound journalls. I have named east end of the north shore above Lower Savage I'les, the East Bluff, fifteen leagues, above three mile from Sadie Back. I observ'd in latitude 62° 06' N. I observed the south end of Mansfeild in 61° 40' N. ; tis a low point of banks of shells. On the east side, forty fiitham is near enough ; but on the south and west, 'tis flatt of a pritty distance. From Litle Agomisco, we run in five and a half to six and a half fatham S.E. by E. Observ'd in latitude 53° 29 N. ; nearest dis. S.S.AV. six miles. A\'e sailed from the north-east Horn of Agomisco t. by E., and got in three miles to westward of the Gaskitt. I am of oppinion their is a wide chanile to westward : their is a ridge from it two mile to northward, and it spits of half a mile to soutliAvard from a dry bank of shingle a quarter of a nule long. From Tutherly Island I stood twenty mile W.S.W., and tackt one mile from the Gaskitt. This narrow is twenty -one miles wide ; 'tis thirty-two mile to eastward of Albany Road, wlicrc I lay twelve mile east from the North Sand Head, and 'tis fifty-seven miles to eastward of the South Bear, and that island is fourteen miles to westward of the North Sand ^(^■ld. I observed the north end of :Mansfeild in 62° 30' N. lati- tude on the meridian of the Bears. The westermost of Bakers Dozen is four nule to westward of that meridian, in latitude 58° 20' N. Flambrough Head, in latitude 54° 08' N. longitude, 0° 11' E. from London. I obs(>rved, in latitude 61° 35' N., Avhen the East Bluff of llesolution bore N.W. by N. five leagues, Cape "W^arwick ;1^ i ! I ^-d ^ '^*'X APPEXDAOF.. 101 I S.W., four d in the log, id lioniward bovc Lower e three mile N. 10' N. ; tis a forty fiitham is fiatt of a If to six and 53° 29 N. ; ;co t. by E., ;t. I am of 'ir is a ridge ilf a mile to r of a mile S.W., and Aventy-one any Road, |nid Head, Bear, and ortli Sand jO' N. lati- lormost of rridian, in |de, 0° ir Bluff of Warwick W. by X. \ N. eight leagues, and made home to the land 60° 54 E. from Hoy Head. South part of Notingham is in latitude 03° 15' N. South end of ^lansf'eild in latitude 01° 40' N. We saw the Bear Islands in twenty-five fatham oaz south, do. east four leagues ; we steered S. by E. eighty-eight miles; south, seven miles, in depths twenty-nine, sixteen, twenty, twenty-three, to the East Horn of Agomisco, west one mile, to nine, eleven, twelve, fifteen, sixteen, twenty ; and going fourteen miles further S. bv E., run into thirty fath., the water of a gall coulour. The Bear Islands, by this acct., is 3^ 00' W. from Cape Diggs. I observed in latitude 52° 32' N., half a mile from the Gaskitt, this bank and ridge is two miles in length from north to south ; the dry part is nearest the south cud ; we had ten to fifteen fatham within half a mile ; and this shoald lyes fourteen miles to eastward of the Horn of Agomisco. This East Wash, or Horn of Agomisco, is thirty-four miles to eastward of the Bear Islands, in latitude 53^" 00' X, : it is by this note fourteen miles to westward of the (iaskitt, in latitude 52° 32' X. ; the South Bear in latitiule 54° 28' X. from hence, crs. and dist. I observed in latitude 51° 34' X., when the Xorth Point bore AV.X.W. h X., Robersoiis Island, S.S.AV. ; bouy n<' tlu; Eair Way, S.AV. by S. one mile ; the Bluffs at ^^'a-wac's Creeks, W. by X., in four and a half fatham at anchor: the Gaskitt from this buoy bears X. by E. fifty-six miles. The channile into this river is thus . from the Sand Heads you steer X.X.E. one and a half mile, from eleven .ind a half foot to nine at low water; then X.E. one and a halt" mile, nine, nine, nine foot over the barr into eleven, twelve, fourteen, fifteen foot; go one mile further to the Eair A\^iy buoy, which I compute is near six miios into Siiiid Heads beacons. The coast has many bank, and lyes of into five fatham and broken ground ; and the two bouvs of the Fail- Way at Moo^e Nf 102 !l i? «E001Ui.HVoK„r„sox,,VY. "■"- *» 'I- lion, ■ ."■'■:■' ^; 'y " ■ -^ «'•. ti,i„,v.„;„„ «-^-K.-ul .V.x.H- ,1, , "I'""'"""' »'"»l<' i" "o.rlv i "■•' "■'« ^54° OS- X r™ '""- '■ '■'■- '-"ce, X.X.,v( "'-I.. -Hue.,. ,„,.... ;■'■;•';;■"■;;'• '-."ckcai,..! i.',„.„. •^'-^f(vn miles. ^''" ^^- iO°; .soutJierly, I observed tlic Xor^l. i\ • , . ,"■'''■ ■"■>° ««■ X., ivorn":,,; Tv ;;"';"'i? "■ ■""■"«■'■. ■•" i-h. "7> ^" ^° ^«' ^v. ,;:;,;:■,;; -;;-;;" -• .:- x..,, "'^'t I't. of Ma„,,HI,| Ui-m \ ' '-"^' ""' ^""'1'- "imdi,,,,. "" '^- '""S'tudc Cr,,,,, ,]„. ^,„.^| «^"i-su.. ,■,.„„ „,,,"■ : ''"''»-'■■>'>•-««. (;.„,„,„, ^. J. "- ri- .0 i,„, ,;,:;;;;| "-'^•'•'"8".kio ,i«=43-i, ,■,.„„, „„: % lliis note, f|„. „„,.,i, „,„., ,. ^ . «■''»'• fr»". iiov ir.„i ,, ''""''■"• ^-•'■■fq.<. UV,„1, tins cape is nearly 58° ;J5' X '^''' • ^^"^ ^''^^f'^lo of ^''" Low..,. „„,,. i„ „„_,^ "' Ton, ,,, A,,„.„i.„,, Al'Pi;M)A(iK lo;} I'oc courses rorth Sand (iaskitt, ill tliirty-niiio iitli. watc]-, t' X. Tlic is nearly ', x.\.\r. vd riotars soutlierlv. rv, in lati- (list. four he North hv soutli- tlu; .said M-niost is [in, \.E., i:. by E. oni But- a loviU |l niouu- ^^'ra(]l, Id more rars, in Itiide of Id and jseo. Ii mile M W. i \. from the South Sand l)eacon, tliirteen foot at h>w water: "\ve caine over the bar in twelve foot water, and run sixtv-four miles frcmi this road to Albany ]load. ^'ou cwe not to stand above sixteen miles athwart from Ai»"omiseo towards tiie North Twlnn. It is n(>arly thirty miles from the two lands ; but the shoalds of oiu", and a rid^c of rocks from the other, re([uire fourte(Mi miles for birth. I taekt in twenty-nine lalham,when the North Twinn bore I'rom E. I S. to N.E, j ]]., dist. ten miles; and this island strechis N.N.E. twelve miles in lenth. 1 observed the latitude in 50" 20' X., and stood sixteen miles back to the Horn of A^omiseo, one mile A\ . by N. I observed the AW-st Slec-per in latitude ot)" 40' N. ]5y this note it is five leagues to westward of the North IJear ; and this North Bear is 2"^ iHV A\^. longitude from Cape Diggs. From Resolution to St. Kilday in fourteen days, wc made 58' 0;r E. longitude; Cape Earew(>ll, 10'' J>(;' E. from the Dijit. St. Kilday bore S. by W. twelve leagues. Observed in lati- tude 5S";jr)'N. From Ivoseness to Tinmouth Castle, S. by E. seventy- seven miles, and south one hundred and sixty miles, when the latter bore W. by S. seven leagues in thirty-six lionrs. From Hoy Head to llesolution in twenty-four days, or 54' Ar. longltud. (jlul])h Ila/ard is ll" 10' E. from Cajie lliggs ; homcwai'd, 2" or E.; latitud';, 5{)" 22' N. ; variation, 2\)" north-westerly. It flows eleven o'clock full, and change and risis but scven- teeii inches at uw u'u dph at an (U'diiuu' ■y tide From Resolution to the lii/ard in twenty-five days, ()2" 00' E. 1 oniri tud{ From Kattery Head to Ivoseness, N. by AV. ^ W., eighty- one mil(>s in sixteen hours. I observed Hoy Head in latitude 58" 52' N. Near the Eabrodore, in latitude 00" 20' N., 58" W. from I ! , 1 ; I |, ; 1 1 ' % 104 OROGRAPHY OF HUDSON HAY. London, wo had a current ssctt to southward eighteen miles in one day. At Cove Ilarhour, in the middle Salvager IsU^s, it fh)\ved ten hrs. ^0' on the full and change, and rise twenty-five foot nine inches ; but on the 3d after full, with a strong S.E. wind, it rise twenty-nine foot. 1 observed Cape Smith in latitude (50° 5(i' N., longitude 1° 48' W. from Cape Diggs, or twenty-tAvo miles. You have a ciurent three mile north a day. At Hichmond lload in Artiwinii)eck, tlu* tide risis three foot foiu- and a half inch at an ordinary tide ; in a storm at N.^^ ., it rises seven foot, iiu'reasing for forty-eight hours; it shrunk on the contrary Avind for the like time. Bonds Inlet is six miles long, and four miles wide in the narrt)west part, ^^'.S.A^'^. | S. seven leagues through all the islands. St. Kilday is one hundred and thirty miles to Avestward of Hoy Head. From Ixesolution to Hoa' Head, 01'^ 45' E. lona;itude. From London to llcsolution, (52" OF W. longitude. I observed the sun rise tAvelve minutes of time sooner then by calcullation in Hudsons Streights. By this note, the south end of Mansfeild is in latitude Cpks'N. I observed in latitude 60 13' X., the Xcrth Sleeper, S.E. by E. four leaguers, and the West Sleeper, S.S.VV^. ^ W. iiA'c leagues the latitude by this note. X. Sleeper, 00^04' X.), A\^ CI iu\^ ni\. \r , longitude. . I \\ . Sleeper, bO 00 iS.) ' ( By tAvo curious obserA'ations to this purpose, I found, in sailing from Albany Road io the Xorth TAvipu, a north-east current tAvelvc mile a day. From Resolution to Cape Desolation in 61*^ 00' X. latitude, the longitude 14^^ 30' E. ; Cape Farewell in 60" 20' X. lati- tude ; N. i E. tAvelve leagues. We afterAvards made the East (52" 150 rom C. Digg.^. ■t L APPENDAGE. 105 htccn miles s, it flowed ity-fivc foot strong 8.E. ., longitude You have risis three I a storm at it hours ; it wide in the igh all the •cstward of itude. ide. [ooner then in latitude ^per, S.E. nV^five |C. Digg,^. [found, in ^orth-eost latitude, i N. lali- the East i Barrow, 45° 44' E. longitude from this place ; but this note is imperfect. I observed Flambrough Head 3" 37' E. longitude from Holm Sound. I observed the latitude; in Albany Road, when the beacon on the North Sand Head bore AV.S.W. eight miles, deducting a proportion of the dayly difference, 52' 20' N. Gulph Hazard in latitude 5G° 22' N.; longitude,77°00' W. from London. 1744. Observed St. Kilday is in latitude 58° 10' X. ; longi- tude, 5° 30' W. from lloy Head, four in number. Confirmed. 1745. From Resolution to Hoy Head, 01° 30' E. longitude. I observed in latitude 61° 21' N., when Cape Warwick bore N.W. 5 N., and the last Bluff of Resolution north. It flowed in Bonds Inlet two days after full moon, 12 o'clock, and rose fourteen foot ; its latitude 02' 38' N., very deap water. In it there is a small rock on the north side ; as you enter from the streights, a strong tide ; and you have a small cove on the Cape side, which lyes open to the north-east. Flatts of Hays River is eight miles over from Five Fatli. Hole into six fatliam cours, E.N.E. j N., into latitude 57° 28' N. When the first Bluff to westward of Knights Hill bears S. 3 E., you go of those shoalds from seven fatham, sixteen and seventeen fatham, and soft ground ; where Usquemow Point bears W.S.W. 5 S. six leagues. In latitude 61° 37' N., wc saw the south end of Mansfeild N.W. by W. four leagues, which 13°0'E. from Five Fatham Hole, and 14° 11' E. to Cape Diggs. I observed Rokel in latitude 57° 38' N., 53° 24' E. longitude from Resolution, a solitary rock-like pyramid, and no ground one mile west from it, eighty fatham of line. 1744. East Barrow is two hundred and fifty-five miles to eastward of Rokel. I observed in latitude 58° 40' N. : the East Barrow bore north six leagues ; the Butt of Lewis and East Barrow bears N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. sixteen leagues distant. 14 I ^1 1 I r ii 1! i. 106 OEOOHAl'HY OF HUDSON HAY. I observed the latitude 57° ^4' N., when Rattcry Head bore N.AV. by N. four Icat^iies. I observed in latitude (51° 41' N., when the east bluff of llesolution W. by N. | N. six leagues. In Ship Hole, in Moose lliver, I observed the latitude, 51° 26' N. J North Point, north seven or eight miles. It flowed seven hours and a half on the quarter day ; eo that S. I W. moon makes full sea. Albany lload, in five fatham, is twenty-one miles east from the fort on Bailys Island. The North Bear is 2° 30' W. longitude from Cape Diggs ; and Mansfeild, on the south-east part, is six mile to eastward of that meridian. From Resolution to St. Killday, 57" 33' E. longitude, in latitude 58" 10', four in number. 1747. From London to Resolution, 64" 30' W. longitude. Cape Henrietta Maria is forty-nine miles to westward of the North ]k\ar. By this note the South Bear is 2" 20' W. from Cape Diggs. Observed a current of eight mile a day sett to southward in sailing down the streights, but 'tis much more near the south shore. (lulph Hazard is caled, in Indian, Quaquachichcliiwan, or, it swallows quickly. Isbistcr. 1748. From Button lies to St. Kilday in twelve day, 60" E. longitude ; from ditto to Hoy Head, 63" 38' E. longitude. In eighteen days that year run from Churchill .'^Iver to Orkney. I observed the latitude in Ice Covj, 62" 24' N. ; ditto in ^loose River Road, 51" 33' N.; North Bluff, W. | N. in four and a half fatham. Teas Bay in latitude 54" 40' N. ; longitude, 1" 30' W. from London. Hoy Head, latitude 58° 52' N. ; longitude, 4° 20' W. f rom Lond on. THE KM). attcry Head :^ast bluff of ho latitude, t miles. It 'ay ; eo that 3s east from ipe Diggs ; ;o eastward tigitudc, in lon^ntude. 'stward of 2^ 20' W. iouthward near the ;hchiwan, y,00"E. itude. ^^ivor to ditto in • in four \V. from APPENDIX CAPTAIN M1DI)I.KT0N'S VOYAGE TO HliD^SON'S I^AV Foit Tin.; DISCOVERY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, IN rOMMANI) OK THK "f (1741-42), UUXA.'e" nOMIt, AND "di THE I.ATTEU IN ClIAKGE SroVEKY' M.\K OF Mil. WM. M()( )I! l V 1 I !' , : t \ I APPENDIX KXTUACTS FROM THE LOG* OF CAFT. CHKISTOPTIER MIDDI.KTON, ON HIS VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH- WEST PASSAGE THROUGH HUDSON's STRAITS. " 1741 {Friday, July 31). This day a council was held on board, in latitude 61° 02', longitude 86° 11' W. " The question was put, and taken into consideration, whe- ther it would be proper to proceed upon a discovery of a passage from Hudson's Bay to the South Sea directly ; or to repair, with His Majesty's ships Furnace and Discovery, to Churchill River in Hudson's Bay, as the season of the year is too far advanced to proceed any farther, and there being a necessity of securing the vessels, and providing necessaries for wintering as soon as possible : and it was una- nimously resolved, considering the rigor of the winter in these parts of the world, the want of everything necessary for building lodgings for the men, a convenient place for secur- ing the vessels from the dangers of the ice, the necessity of digging store-rooms for the provisions, — no brandy, spirits, nor strong beer being proof against the severity of the winter above ground, — the uncertainty of securing the vessels after the frost comes on, which usually happens in the beginning of September ; and the obstructions we may probably meet with in our passage, by fogs, calms, ice, and contrary winds. " That it would be the best and sui-est method for the ser- ^ From the original log of Captain Middleton, in the Record Office of the Admiralty. no Minnr.ETON's VOYVfiK t ' I vice in gonoral, to jirococd directly for Ohiirchill River in Hudson's Hay, there to secure His Majesty's vcHHch Furnace and Discovery, Avith their provisions, stoies, and ammunition ; and to provide convenient winter-cjuarters, firing, and neces- sary clothing, for their respective companies ; and to wait the breaking up of the ice next year, and then to attempt the discovery of l passage from Hudson's I^ay to the South Sea. " 1741 {Friday, 'ith Sej}t.): at the mouth of our tvintering coi'c, Churchill liiocr. Cohl weather, with sleet and snow ; the wiuds variable. Continued our men at work as above ; every tide, as we dig down, we meet with rocks and stones, which wc arc obliged to blow v^i. We got our anchors above high- water mark. Yesterday morning, as I was going forwards, and the men running round with the capstan, I was jammed between the end of one of the bars and the companion, which took my breast and back bone, so that I fell do^vn senseless for some time ; and when recovered a little, was in great pain, and difficulty of breathing, but don't find any damage inwardly. I hope I shall, in a short time, recover a^' n, through the assistance of Providence. **(aS Jiday, Wth Oct.) Clear air; cold weather. This being the anniversary of His Majesty's coronation day, we solemn- ized it in a particular manner. Wc marched all our men from the New Fort, under arms, to the cove where the ships lay, being above two miles distant, and at noon discharged twenty-eight guns, belonging to both ships, that were laid in order on the shore for that purpose, where the two ships winter. The officers drank to His Majesty's health, and success to the British arms, as the guns were firing. It was observed at the same time that the wine with which the officers drank the aforesaid healths, and which was good port wine, froze in the glass as soon as pomed out of the bottle. They marched back in the same order, with drums beating m. m River in Is Ftirnave munition ; md ncccs- xl to wait o attempt the South icintering snow; the k^c; every cs, which ove high- forwards, 1 jammed 5n, which senseless in great damage T ao- n, is being solemn- ur men le ships ;hargcd laid in ships h, and It was ;h the d port ottlc. mating * fa- ro IIinSON HAY. Ill and colours flving. Whr, drove out of sight to sea ; the rest fast froze. People have crossed the river upon the ice, eight miles up, four days ago. I observe how so much ice is made in the bay, straits, and shores, in these parts ; and why there is more made some years than others. It is caused in the fall of the year, before the rivers, bays, and inlets, are froze fast ; for the ice that is made on the several lee shores increases at a great rate, near one mile in twenty-four hours, which at the flux and reHux of the tides breaks off, and when the wind blows from the shore is all carried out to sea, Avhere it fastens tog(>ther, and more increases with it. And as we find in the straits and bay greater quantities of ice some years than others, it is owing to the length of time these several rivers, inlets, bays, etc., are freezing fast ; for the sea is not, nor can freeze, without something to fasten upon. And if the rivers should keep open imtil the latter end of ()ctob(>r, it would go near to fill Hudson's Bay one quarter full of ice. Now all the ice that's drove into the open bay, let the wind blow from any i)art of the compass, will have one side of it a weather side, which 112 MinnrjiTON's voyage i 'I-'i'ies made i„ ZtiL^r ''' ''"^ "•"»' "^^ ?'-' " I'l'cra! allowance of „o.. „" , ""^ '^'"'^'». ""•» '-. prove, ..o.„ ,.e „„„.,., of r;!',::*" "™"" ■" ""'■y of JIfc M„j,,t ., 4 j^^-" ''• J '"x bang the annivcr- t-Hler, eleven. D.ank ,„ j^';' """8 T™"'^™ 8""' ' "><^ I't."ch, together with «,.o„ J h^ ' "1 ' ^""""^^ '"''''' "'o feeto,y'» ,„e„, ,„j „„ »/■;"' among our people, the freezing. Thi' eingteln r ''"'";."'* "'"* -»-> ■-'> -'• ourgun» being^e reH r' """"-<'" 'J'-son. fi'--vo,fc at the New C 7 '"""' "° ^^'^^'^ "« ™-»e tl'irty gallons of bran.lv ind ^'■"'' "'"' "™ "»'' °«^"s Mo. of the factor, .rniSt: ffh: "" T ^''"'■'' "''• f*"'f f '• ^-^ chips' eon.pa„ies a-u- he 7" ""'"°" '™'' here to keep their Christm,, n v '<"•>'.'"•» returned O'- fourteen day. WoTu' ' '" ™^'°"'' ^^ '»*« brandy every day all the 'tij °" ^"^'^^ ''">°B beer and << / Tf/ T •'■'•Hit,. (Thursday, Uth Dec.) Most of ., factory are very well exeentin , P'^P'" ^' *e old -* the seur'y, an^: f LTb T "T *"' "''^ »«-^0 » this plaee. I have 7^7 ' """^ ^'^^ '»' ^''ore beer has been expended T' '™'' ^"^^ "^ ^"8"* «-s used here t^^Stri':;.:"'' ''^■-''^' '''-"^^ inst it ; and ust be grcjit ^tracts, that ncn diuinff btlcss, miii.t 3 results, in gales and ic anniver- n the same guns ; the d the royal made into )eoplc, the ition day. snow, and r 'J reason, off some d officers as before, sharp air. Iiting and I returned j)r twelve )eer and the old lafflicted in shore English lie only •|() III DSON HAY. 113 la A little fuither on it will he seen that it had not the cflrct, and many of the men wore attack in the morning till nine ut night ; and when the fire is out, a red hot shot, twenty- four pounds' weight, hung up at the window to thaw it ; on the outside there are shutters to every wiiulow, siv inches thick ; four lar^c fires made in the stoves every day — a cart- load of wood for each ; yet all this will not keep things from freezing within doors. "(Mi)H(Iai/,4f/< Jan.) Fair and clear weather, but extreme cold. I went out this forenoon Mith a design to take a walk ; but had not gone two hundred yards before my face was froze all over in a blister, so was obliged to return. "HTlinrsday, -^^th Feb.) This evening our surg(>on canu^ down from the old factory, after cutting off the men's toes, and the flesh of several that were froze and mortified. 'J here are foiu* men at the old factory very bad with the scurvy, twelve at the new factory very ill with the scurvy, the country distemper, and froze ; twenty-five at both jdaces, belonging to both ships, not able to go abroad ; and seve- ral not able to help themselves. I get fresh provisions for those in the scurvy ; and the surgeon uses all possible means to save them. In the spring of the year we shall supply them with green herbs — the best remedy known here for the scurvy." The supply of green herbs was certainly more likely to be efficacioiis than the "thirty gp lions of brandy to nuike into punch." "{Saturday, loth March): Churchill Hirer. Abraham 15 ^ p 1 ^ 1' ^' M ' . ; u i y \k M ! 1 114 MIDDLETON S VOYAOK Page departed this life, after a long illness with a fever and senrvy ; a very stout, able-hodied man, and a good seaman. We have, at this time, filieen or sixteen very ill ; several of them cannot live long. So extreme cold, there is no stirring abroad. " {Monday, 'H^nd March.) Fair and moderate weather ; in the morning, calm ; at noon, veered to south-east. John Blair, an able seaman, died last night of the scurvy, after a long illness. Fourteen or fifteen more continue very ill of the same distemper. AVe continue serving them with fresh provisions and strong beer : those that are well are served with half brandy and half spruce beer ; and a bottle of brandy and sugar to every four men, once a week, over and jvbove their allowance.' " {Friday, 2(yfh March.) Henry Spencer died of the scurvy, being long ill. Most of them are carried off with a looseness. " {Mo?iday, July I2th.) Latitude, 65° 30' ; longitude, 85° 55' W. Wind, weather, etc., as per log. Our way made, allowing for working among the ice, is N. 11 W., dist. tAventy- one miles ; depart., four miles : therefore latitude and longi- tude as above. At noon, a fair point, cape, or headland, appeared on the north shore, to the northward of Whale Bone Point, which bore from us eight or nine leagues, as above, in latitude 65° 10' N., and longitude from London, by accot., 86° 06' W., which I shall name Cape Dobbs. And now we arc standing in for an inlet or strait, which makes a fair opening north-Avest from us, though not very wide, to secure our ships from the continual danger they must be exposed to by l}"ing in the AVelcome, or proceeding any fur- ther until the ice is gone ; and if this cannot be done, we must forthwith return. ^ Tins superabundant supply of spirits must have been most injurious to the men, who seem to have suffered severely, forming a great contrast to Captain Austin's and Captain Penny's ships during the winter of 1850-1. TO HUDSON HAY. 115 a fever and od seaman. ; several of I no stirring tc weather ; east. John irvy, after a e very ill of a with fresh [ are served le of brandy r and above died of the ;d off with a ingitude, 85° ■ way made, dist. twcnty- e and longi- r headland, d of Whale leagues, as London, by obbs. And ich makes a ery Avide, to ey must be ng any fur- )e done, we Inost injurious [great contrast Ithe winter of " [Tuesday, July 13) : in the llicer Wager, North America. The weather, wind, and other remarks, as per log. Sound- ings and depths of water as below. At six, entering the inlet, which Avas now suspected to be a river. Very good soundings, no less than sixteen fathoms ; and most of the way, as we go uj), twenty, thirty, and forty-four fathoms. It was just low water as we entered. The tide runs five or six miles an hour. This river, which I choose to name Wager River, in honour of Sir Charles Wager (first Lord Commis- sioner of the Admiralty), at four or five miles within its entrance, is six or eight miles wide ; four or five leagues up, it is four or five leagues wide. There are several islands in the middle, and some rocks, Avhich Ave haj^pily escaped. At high Avater, the land on both sides as high as any in England. \bout six leagues up, at our first anchoring, the tide runs not above tAAO miles an hour. At ten in the morning sent the master Avith the boat to help the tender into anchor by us, out of the tides and ice ; but she is diiven doAvn Avith the ebb again, it being calm, and thick ice surrounding her. " {Thursday, July 15th.) Many of our men are very bad of their old disease, the scurvy. Those Avho Avere on the rccoA'cry Avhen avc came from Churchill, are groAvn Averse again ; so that one half of them are unserviceable. " ( Tuesday, July 20fh.) I returned on board, and brougiit the deer, as above. Gave part to the tender, and the rest to our sick people gratis, or oAX'r and above their alloAvance. It was A'ery strange, that, in this sickness, even a day or tAVo before they died, they Avould eat their Avhole alloAvance, and a great deal more if they could get it. "{Sunday, August 8th.) Latitude, 05° 41'; longitude, Ho^^'Z'. Wind, Aveather, etc., as above. Our course made since tAvo in the morning that Ave bore aAvay, to noon, is S. 30 W. ; dist., forty-seven miles ; depart., two hundred and thirty-five miles. I returned on board last night, as above, having been fifteen miles from the place Avhere Ave lauded. My clerk, i, In a W 'idW 116 mij)Ulf,ton's voyage the carpenter, gunner, and one Indian, were with me. We passed over high mountains till we came to the furthermost, which overlooks the Frozen Strait, and the east bay on the other side, and could see the passage where the flood came in. The narrowest part of this strait is four or five leagues, being six or seven at the broadest, almost full of long small islands ; its length is about sixteen or eighteen leagues. It stretches south-east round to the south. To the westward we could see it from beginning to end, all full of ice not yet broken up, quite fast to both shores and to the small islands. We saw very high land fifteen or twenty leagues to the southward of our station, which I take to run towards Cape Comfort, being the furthest that Bylot went ; and the bay which Fox named Lord Weston's Portland, in part of Hud- son's North Bay, about north-west from the west end of Nottingham, by comparing our longitude made with Fox's and Bylott's. As this last-mentioned bay and strait is quite full of ice not likely to be thawed this year, at least till very late, so as to allow time for a discovery, it was resolved in council to make the best of our way into Hudson's J3ay homewards, " {Simrlay,\bth Aug.) Latitude, 61° 25'; longitudc,92° i^o'. I find I can do no more to the purpose I am ordered upon, and my men are most of them very much distempered ; so that, by consultation, we find the best method to bear away for Enoland." ;i I i.^l2 -J& TO HUDSON HAY. 11- I me. We irthermost, bay on the flood came ve leagues, long small cagucs. It e westward ice not yet aall islands, jucs to the wards Cape nd the bay irt of Hud- vest end of with Fox's rait is quite !ast till very 1 resolved in dson's Bay ude,92°25'. ered upon, npered ; so bear away Letters^ from Captain Middlctoti, commanding the Expodition for the Discovery of a North- IVcst Passage through Iludsoii's Strait ; dated from their Winter (jnarters in Churchill liiccr, 2^th June 1742, and addressed to Sir Charles Wager, First Lord of the Admiraltg. " Right Honble. Sir, — " The last that I wrote to you from the Isles of Orkney was dated June the 25th, 1741. On the 27th I sailed from thence, the tender in company. The iirst and second day after wc were out, had calms and contrary winds ; spoke with two ships, the one from New England, the other from Virginia, — both bound to London. After that, had favour- able Avinds and weather. On the 16th of July made Cape Farewell, the east entrance of Davis's Straits, being very high, ragged land, covered with snow. It is in the latitude of 59° 45' N., and longitude, from the meridian of London, about 40" W. ; which meridian I shall accoimt my longitude from the rest of the voyage. " On the 21st saw several large isles of ice in latitude 60'^ 30', and longitude 61° 00' W. On the 25th, made the south part of Cape Resolution, the north entrance of Hudson's Straits, being in the latitude of 61° 25' N., and longitude, 64° 00' W. At the same time sailed into the straits with a fair wind, but thick fog. The variation of the compass in this strait, is N. 40° westerly. Very strong and dangerous tides run in here, with overfalls, ripplings, and whirlings, yet very deep water, — two hundred fathom not far from the shore. 'I'he tides flow on change days E.S.E. and W.N.W. in the harbours on shore, and five fathom; the flood comes from the eastward, and thither it returns. " The 29th, got the length of Cape Diggs on the south side and Avest end of the straits, in latitude 62° 50' N., and longi- * The t'oll(»\viii,n' loiters iU'o copied I'ldiii the oiij^iiials, in the Record (»tHce of the Atlmiraltv, mid have never liet'ore lieen i>ul>lished. ^* 118 MIDDI-ETOX S VOYAGE « tude 78° W., about one hundred and forty leagues from Cape Resolution, which is the length of these straits. Found our passage very clear of ice, only large isles that are for ever seen on the coasts here. The land on both sides is very high. The north side apjjcars to be nothing but islands and broken land, covered all the year with snow and pestered with ice, unpassable excepting three months in the year. The same evening we passed by the north end of Mansel's Island, which is distant from Cape Diggs fourteen leagues, and is in length twenty leagues, though in most places not above three leagues broad ; very low and dangerous coming near it in the night and foggy weather, being deep water close to, and cannot be seen above three or four miles from the deck in clear weather. " We made Carey's Swan's Nest on the 31st, in longitude 83° W., and latitude G2°, forty leagues from the north end of Mansel's Isle ; having thick, foggy weather, blowing hard, the wind easterly and on the shore, could not try the tides, or make bold with the land. Off this place I held a council, where it was unanimously agreed to repair to Churchill River, for reasons given in my journal, to which I refer your lordship. " August the 2nd it continued fogj^y ; and meeting with much ice, retarded us very much in our course. On the 7th, made the land thirty miles to the eastward of Churchill River, having had much ice, contrary winds, calms, and fogs, for four days past. On the 9th, got both ships into Churchill River, and employed our men in preparing winter quarters for the ships, themselves, and provisions, by preparing an old fort that was in ruins, cutting fire-wood to burn in the long winter, digging a dock for the tAVO ships, and places under ground to secure our stores from the extreme frost. "On the 31st hauled the two ships ashore, on account of the spring tides, and to be out of the way of ice. September the 17th, got both ships securely moored, free from the dangers TO HUDSON n.v.Y, lit) from Cape ^ound our 3 for ever es is very slands and 1 pestered tlie year, f Hansel's n leagues, places not )us coming leep water miles from 1 longitude north end •wing hard, y the tides, 1 a council, Churchill refer your seting with •n the 7tli, Churchill |s, and fogs, Churchill ler quarters cparing an lurn in the and places Inc frost, ount of the tembcr the llic dangers of ice, and sent the men to their winter quarters. We had, fc- the most part, from the first of this month, hail, snow, and cold pinching weather ; the land all covered with snow, and the shores lined with ice. The dock that we were ol)liged to dig for our ships was done with great lahour and toil to our men night and day ; had much ado to complete it before the winter came on, the ground being hard froze all the year, except three or four foot down, and many large stones and rocks we were obliged to blow up. By the 29tl , the river was almost full of ice, and the northerly trade- winds set in, making it extreme cold. The wind blows between the N.N.L. and N.AV. until thj latter end of May Most of our men employed in cutting wood fo^ burning in stoves, which they haul home upon sledges over the frozen snow, when there is anything of moderate weather and they can stir abroad ; for many days there is no looking out of doors, for the drifting snow and extreme frost. " We continued four fires in our dwelling-house every day, in large brick stoves that will hold a good cart-load of wood each time ; and at night, when burnt down, stop the top of the chimney to keep the heat in our apartments. After Christmas several of our men got the scurvy, with pains all over their limbs. By March they almost all had it, and several died. The frost is so extreme for four or five months in the winter, that we can hardly look abroad without freez- ing our foccs, hands, or feet; and then lying in for cure brings on the scurvy ; and wdioevcr takes to his bed hardly ever gets abroad again, but falls into a looseness, which generally carries him oflf in eight or ten days. Though in twenty years that I have used this voyage, I never heard of, or knew, any afflicted with this, or any other distemper, before the last and this year.' ^ This seems most unaccountalile — unless it be the too free use of spirits, which may have occasioned so much illness on the present voyage. V i 120 MIDDLKTON S VOYAGK 1; t lii I' 't ii "April the 7th, 174J2, T ordered my officers and men to the ships (I mean such as were abh^ to do anytliing, for we were very Aveak and sickly at that time), and employed them in cl(;aring the ice from the inside of the ship, which was several inches thick, and airing the same with four or five large coal fires made in the iron stoves we had for that pur- pose. The carpenters were employed in fitting the shij) for sea again ; and about the middle of April set all hands to work in digging a dock in the ice to heave the ship farther astern before the river broke up ; for the tides generally take off when the ice is gone. They worked with great labour night and day, as the tidos would permit, in digging the dock and cutting the ice from the ship ; but it was the 10th of June before I could get her into the river, where I laid her aground for the carpenters to bream and caulk. I have used the utmos,; despatch in getting both the shij)s ready ft)r sea ; and propose, if winds and weather permit, to sail this day, and diligently obey my instructions in proceeding on the voyage for the discovery of a passage from this place to the South Sea. And therefore wishing your lordship health and long life, beg leave to subscribe myself, Eight Hon. Sir, Your most obedient and most humble servant, (Signed) Christ. Middi-eton." " Furnace, in Churchill River, June 28th, 1742." " A little befo/e the ships were ready for sailing, some Northern Indians came hei e to trade, and I prevailed on three of them, with presents and promises, to accompany me in my voyage. Two of these Indians speak several dialects of the Indian tongue, and have, as far as I can understand, been at Nc Ultra. The third is one who was brought up about the iWJiP* =t lO HUDSON HAY. 1:21 id men to iig, for Avc oyctl them which was 3ur or five V that pur- lic sliij) for 1 hands to hip farther erally take •eat labour igging the IS the 10th here I laid [k. I have IS ready for to sail this ceeding on lis place to ship health \ '4 frvant, 1)1) I, ETON. factory here, but has been among the Northern Lulians, speaks their language and Englisli tolerably well, and I hope will be of great service to the main design. I have herewith inclosed the observations I made here this winter. " Sir Charles Wager, Knt." The next letter I find from Captain ^liddlcton reports his return to England on the 2nd October 1742, and encloses a continuation of his "Abstract of Proceedings". '* Hon. Sir, — I send this to acquaint you, for their lord- ships' information, that I am now working up the river Thames, in order to moor at Galleon's Reach, there to wait further orders. In this is inclosed an abstract of my proceed- ings in the voyage I was ordered upon ; and if their lord- ships would give me leave (at the return of this messenger I have sent) I shall wait upon them with a draught of the parts discovered, and a continuation of my journal from the 28th of June last till this time. I am, Hon. Sir, Your most obedient humble servant, (Signed) Christ. Middletox." '' Furnace, at the Hope, Oct. 2nd. 1742." Iling, some xl on three me in my }cts of the |id, been at abo\it the An Abstract of Jic Procecxiings of His 3Iajcst)fs Ship " Furnacc''\ apon the Discovery, etc. " I sailed from Churchill the first day of July 1742, being the first spurt of wind I could get for sailing out of the har- bour, and continued sailing with a fair wind till the 3rd, 10 il ■ I ! II ( I 122 M I [)l)I,KTON S VOYAGE when we saw an island, the two extremities bearing N. by E. and E. by N., lying in the latitude of 63" 00' N., and longi- tude from Churchill 3° 40' E.; which I take to be the same Fox named Brook Cobham. On the fifth day I saw a head- land on the north side of the Welcome, bearing N.W. by N., distant seven or eight leagues, in the latitude of 63° 20', and longitude from Churchill 4° 00' E. Here I tried the tides several times, and found, close in with the land, the tide to run two miles an hour from the N. by E., which I take to be the flood ; and by the slacks, from several trials, I found that a west or W. by N. moon made high water, having a full moon that day. On the 8th saw the north side of the Welcome, with much ice in shore. I tried the tide, and found it set E.N.E. two fathoms. On the 9th, continuing my course, and sailing through much ice, I was at length obliged to grapple to a large piece. The tender did the same, to keep off from the shore, the win! blowing us right upon it. I tried the tide frequently, and could not discover cither ebb or flood by my current log. Here we were fast jammed up in ice, being totally surrounded for many miles, and the wind setting it right upon us : it was all ice for ten leagues to windward, and were in great danger of being forced on shore ; but it happily falling calm after we had lain in this condition two or three days, the pieces of ice separated, or made small openings. We being then within two miles of the shore, and with no little difficulty hauled the ships from one piece to another, till we got amongst what we call sailing ice, that is, where there are such intervals of water as a ship, by several traverses, may get forwards towards the intended course. In ttis manner we continued till we saw a fine cape or headland to the northwarcl of Whale Bone Point, in the latitude of 65° 10' N., and longitude from Churchill, 8° 54' E. This I named, after my worthy' friend, ^ rnvforthy would have be jn more appropriate, for I cannot but think he behaved very ill to Captain Middleton. — Ed. I •*w SP ' TO IIl'DSON HAY. 1;>.J N. by E. ind loiifjfi- thc same \y a heacl- \V. by N., i° m, and the tides ;he tide to L I take to s, I found having a ide of the tide, and continuing at length ;r did the g us right 3t discover were fast any miles, ice for ten ■ of being }r we had ces of ice icn within Ity hauled )ngst what itervals of forwards Icontinued of Whale tude from [y' friend, ^t but think m Cape Dobbs. I had very good soundings between the two shores of the ^W•lcome, having forty-six, forty-eight, and forty-nine fathoms of water. *' At the same time that I saw Cape Dobbs, I descried a fair opening b-^iring N.W., which, according to my instruc- tions, I stood in for amongst the sailing ice. It was just flood when we entered it, the tide running very strong ; which, by observations afterwards, I found to run five or six miles an hour. I run over some rocks on the north side of it very luckily, being just high water, and anchored in about thirty-four fathom water ; but when the tide of ebb was made, it ran so strong, and such quantities and bodies of ice came down upon us, that we were obliged to stder the ship all the time, and to keep all hands upon their guard with ice-poles to shove off the ice ; notwithstanding which, it brought our anchor home, and taking hold again, one of the arms was broke off. The next day I sent my lieutenant in the boat to seek out some securer place for the ships, it being impossible to keep afloat long where we were. Some Usque- may savages came off to us, but had nothing to trade, ;. used them civilly, made them some presents, and dismissed them. As soon as I got the ships secured, I employed all my officers and boats, hr nng myself no little share in the labour, in trying the tides, and discovering the course and nature of this opening ; and after repeated trials, for three weeks sucr "sively, I found the flood constantly to come from the eastward, and that it was a large river we were got into, but so full of ice there wai no stirring the ships with any probability of safety while the ice was driving up and down with the strong tides. Here I lay, not a little impa- tient to get out ; went several times in my boat towards the mouth of the river, and from a hill that overlooked part of the "Welcome", saw that place fuU of ice, so that I found that there was no time lost by our being in security. However, H 1 '■ i. !'l , i I 124 MIDDLKTOX S VOYAGE I sent my Houtcnant and master in the eight-oared hoat, to look out for a harhour near the entrance of the river, and it was a small miracle that they got on hoard again, for they were so jammed up with ice, which, driving with the strong tides, would inevitahly have stove the hoat to pieces, and all must have perished, had it not been for an opening in a large piece, into which they got the boat, and with it drove out of the river's mouth ; but when the tide slacked, the ice opened as usual, and then they rowed over to the north shore, so got in with the flood. I several times sent the Indians ashore to see if they knew anything of the country, but they were quite ignorant of it. In this vexatious condi- tion I continued for three weeks, resolving to get out the first opportunity the river was anything clear of ice, and ;nakc what discoveries I could by meeting the flood tide. This river, wliich, by my frequent trials of the lands, soundings, ddes, etc., I was able to take a draught of, I named the River Wager, after the Right Hon. Sir Charles Wager, etc. " On the 3rd of August the river, for the first time, was a little clear of ice, and accordingly I sailed out of it in pursuit of our discovery, and on the 5th, by noon, got into the lati- tude of 66° 14'. We had then got into a new strait much pestered with ice, and on the north side of which we saw a cape or headland bearing north. We had deep water and very strong tides within four or five leagues of it. I named this headland Cape Hope, as it gave us all great joy and hopes of its being the extreme north part of America, seeing little o no land to the northward of it. We tmned or worked round it the same night, and got five or six leagues to the N. by W. before we could perceive any otherwise than a fiur and wide opening ; but about noon, the 6th day, after having got into the latitude of OT 40', found we were im- bayed, and by two in the afternoon could not go above three U t'm H I I — ; [1 boat, to cr, and it , for they ;hc strong; ;s, and all ning in a h it drove >d, the ice the north sent the c country, ous condi- )t out the f ice, and flood tide, the lands, ught of, I ir Charles i . imc, was a in pursuit o the lati- rait much i 1 we saw a water and I named 1 t joy and ca, seeing ■i or worked ■J ucs to the ^ se than a day, aflor were ini- ■ (ove three , : TO HUDSON HAY. U5 leagues farther; and having tried the tides all the forenoon, every two hours, till two o'clock in the afternoon, found neither ebb or flood, yet deep water. From this it was con- cluded that we had overshot the straits on the north-east shore, from whence the flood came ; and as tlnue was no proceeding above three or four leagues farther, it was agreed upon by all to return back, and search narroAvly for a strait or opening near where we found the strong tides. On the 7th, after we were confirmed the flood came in on the north- east side from the E. by S., I went on shore in the boat, and found it flowed fifteen foot three days after the full, and a W. by S. moon made high water. I travelled twelve or .'ifteen miles inland till I came to a very high mountain, from A\ hence I plainly saw the strait or opening the flood came in at ; and the mountain I stood upon being pretty near the middle of this strait, I could sec both ends of it ; but it was all froze fast, from side to side, being about eighteen or twenty leagues long, and six or seven broad, havir^g many small islands in the middle and sides of it, and very high land on both sides. But ps there was no appearance of the ice clearing this year, and near the 67th degree of latitude, no anchoring the ships, being very deep water close to the shore, and much large ice driving with the ebb and flood, and but little room if thick weather should happen, which we continually expect in those parts, — it was agreed upon in council to make the best of our way out of this dangerous, narrow strait, and to make observations between the 64th and 62nd decree of latitude. The Frozen Strait I take to run towards that which Bylot named Cape Comfort, and the bay where Fox had named a i^lare Lord ^\'^eston's Portland. It is in the latitude of 66° 40', and longitude 12° 19' E. from Churchill. '* Pursuant to the resolution, we bore away, and tried the tides on the other side of th(> Welcome, sounding and ol)- serving close in shore, l)ut met Avith very little encourage- 126 middleton's voyage I i i I t 1 -i ■l\ mcnt. On the 11th of August, I onco more saw the Tslaiul Brook Cobham, and continued trying the tide ; still finding the flood came from the eastward, and by coasting along the Welcome, was certain of its being the mainland, though there are several black whales of the right whale-bone kind seen thereabouts ; and there arc several small islands and deep bays. I worked off and on by Brook Cobham, sent the two Northern Indians ashore upon the island, who, at their return, gave me to understand that it was not far from their country, and desired I would let them go home, being tired of the sea. I kept them with assurances that I would act according to my promise, and finding no probability of a passage in two or three days after, I gave them a small boat well fitted with sails and oars, the use of which they had been taught, and loaded it with fire-arms, powder, shot, hatchets, and everything desirable to them. They took their leave of me, and I sent another boat with them for water, which accompanied them ashore, the Southern Indian being with them. The Southern Indian, who was linguist for the Northern ones, returned with the boat. He had been accus- tomed to the English at the Factory ; and being desirous of seeing England, and a willing handy man, I brought him with me. The same evening, which was the 15th of August, I bore away for England, thinking to have tried the tides at Carey's Swan's-ness, but could not fetch it. On the 20th, saw Hansel's Isle. On the 21st, Cape Diggs was in sight. On the 26th, made Cape Resolution, and arrived at Cairston, in the Isles of Orkney, the 15th of September, where I jjut several men sick ashore, — most of the companies of the two ships being very much afflicted with the scurvy and other- wise distempered, — I waited there to recruit my men after the fatigues of the voyage, and to impress hands to bring the ships safe to the River Thames. I sailed from the Orkneys the 24th of the same month, and having variable winds and weather, am now working up the River Thames to moor at -4 '4 II TO HUDSON HAY. 127 ic Tslimd il finding along the ., though (one kind lands and liam, sent I, who, at t far from mc, h(nng X I would hility of a ;mall boat L they had dcr, shot, took their for water, dian being ist for the ecn accus- csirous of ught him f August, c tides at the 20th, in sight. Cairston, licrc I put )f the two Imd other- 1 men after bring the Orkneys kinds and moor at Galloon's Reach, there to wait farther orders. For the par- ticulars of the voyage, 1 humbly refer their lordships to my journal and draught. (Signed) Christopher Middleton." Probably no officer employed upon such an expedition was more unfortunate in the selection of his crew than Cap- tain Middleton. A great part of them were pressed into the service ; and the following letter will convey some idea of the troublesome characters he had to deal with. ** Hon. Sir, — I beg leave to acquaint you, for the inform- ation of my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that this day I received their lordships' order of the 15th instant, in relation to the five men, who are thereby directed to be dis- charged into the Cormcall ; and, in answer thereto, I desire their lordships may be acquainted, that I should have been glad to have got rid < them long ago, and am only sorry Cai)tain Stapylton is to be troubled with such villains ; for, notwithstanding I have used them all the voyage with great lenity and indulgence, and have ordered them near a third more provisions than his majesty's allowance, they have broke open and plundered almost every cask in the ship, by which I am no small sufferer, and now have deserted the ship under my command without any leave or notice, and enticed all the common hands to do the same, who, I believe, did not want much invitation ; for certainly no ship was ever pestered with such a set of rogues, most of them having deserved hanging before they entered with me, and not three seamen among the whole number of private men ; so that had it not been for the officers, who, every one of them, worked like common men, I should have found no little difficulty to get the ships to England. " I am now almost destitute of working hands, and humbly beg their lordships w^ould please to order the officers of the I' 11 lUi •I • '■ ll \-(i 4 '^1^!' 128 middlp:ton's voyage yard here to supply me with men to get the ship cleared of her stores and provisions, as I shall, according to their lord- ships' directions, discharge the five men mentioned in their order. I am, Hon. Sir, Your most obedient humble servant, (Signed) Christ. Middleton." " Furnace, at Woolwich, Oct. 16th, 1742." " Hon. Secretary Corbett." The folloAving "observations", made by Captain Mid- dleton at the n inter quarters in Churchill lliver, are also obtained from the Records of the Admiralty, and will be I'ound to contain much curious and interesting matter. OBSERVATIONS. The effects of uold ; together loitli observations of the longi- tude, latitude, refraction of the atmosphere, and doclina- tion of the magnetic needle, at Prince of Wales's Fort, Churchill River, in Hudson''s Bay, North America. Ihj Christopher Middleton, commander of his majesty''s ship " Furnactr, 1741-42. " I observed that the hares, rabbits, foxes, and partridges, in September and the beginning of October, change their native colour to a snowy white ; and that for six months, in the severest part of the winter, I never saw any but what were all white, except some foxes of a different sort, which were griz/lcd, and some half red, half white. " That lakes and standing waters, which are not above ten or twelve foot deep, are froze to the ground in the winter, and the fishes therein all perish. \. • TO iirnsov itAY, 1;?}) Icarcd of cir lord- in their It, DLETON. ain Mid- , arc also I will be cr. '7reiu putting lines and hooks. Ihit if they are to l)e taken Avith nets, they cut several holes in a straight line the length of the net, and pass the net, with a stick fastened to the head- line, from hole to hole, till it reaches the utmost extent, and what fishes come to these Indes for air are thereby entanghd in the net, aiul the fish, as soon as brought into o])en air, are instantaneously froze as stifl' as stock fish. The seamen like- wise fresh(ni their salt provisions by cutting a larg(^ hole through the ice in the stream or tide of the river, whieh they do at the beginning of th(> winter, and keej) it oj^n all that season. In this hole they put their salt nu>at, and the minut(> it is immersed undei* water, it bc^comes pliable and soft, tliout'h before its innnersion it was very hard fro/(\ " 13eef, ])ork, mutton, and Acnison, that ar(> killed at the beginning of the winter, are preserved by the frost for six or seven months entirely free from putrefaction, and ])rove tolerable good eating. LikcAvise geese, partridges, and other foAvl, that are killed at th(> same time, and kept Avith their feathers on and guts in, require no other preservative but the frost to make them good Avholesomc eating, as long as the Avinter continues. All kinds f)f fish uxo preserved in the like manner. " In large lakes and rivers the ice is sometimes broken l)y imprisoned vapours, and the rocks, trees, joists, and rafters of our buildings, are burst with a noise not less terrible than the firing off a great many guns together. The rocks Avliich arc split by the frost are hove up in great heaps, h-aving large cavities behind, Avhich I take to l)e caused by impri- soned Avatery vapours that re([uire more room Avhen froze than they occupy in their fluid state. N(>ither do I think it unaccountable that tlu^ frost should be able to tear up loeks and trees, and split the beams of our houses, Avheu I consider IT 1^ 130 Am)l)LKTO>:'s VOYAGE 4 i |i ^^ the great force and elasticity thereof. If beer or water is left in mugs, canns, bottles, nay, in copper pots, though they are put by our bedsides, in a severe night they arc surely split to pieces before morning, not being able to withstand the expansive force of the inclosed ice. " The air is filled with innumerable particles of ice, very sharp and angular, and plainly perceptible to the naked eye. I have several times this winter tried to make observations of some celestial bodies, particularly the emersions of the satellites of Jupiter, Avith reflecting and refracting telescopes; but the metals and glasses, by that time I could fix them to the object, were covered a quarter of an inch thick Avith 'ce, and thereby the object rendered indistinct, so that it is not Avithout great difficulties that any observations can be Uxkvn. " Bottles of strong beer, brandy, strong brine, spirits of wine, set out in the open air for three or four hours, freeze to solid ice. I have tried to get the sun's refraction here to every degree above the horizon Avith Elton's quadrant, but to no purpose, for the spirits froze almost as soon as brought into open air. " The frost is never out of the ground ; hoAV deep, Ave cannot be certain. W^e have dug doAvn ten or tAvelve feet, and found the earth hard froze in the two summer months ; and AA'hat moisture avc find five or six feet doAvn is Avhite, like ice. " The Avatcrs or rivers near the sea, Avhere the current of the tide Aoaa's strong, doth not freeze above nine or ten loot d(^cp. " All the Avater Ave use for cooking, brewing, etc., is melted snow and ice ; no spring is yet found free from freez- ing, though dug lu'ver so deep doAvn. All Avaters inland are froze fast by the beginning of October, and continue so till the middle of May. " The walls of the house Ave live in arv of stone, tAVo foot lO HIJUSON IJAY. 1;}1 or water is thoiigli they y are surely to withstand of ice, very naked eye. )bscrvations ions of the telescopes ; ix them to thick -with ) that it is )ns can be , spirits of urs, freeze )n here to drant, but IS brought deep, we elvc feet, months ; is white, irrcnt of or ten etc., is lu freez- inland muc so ^vo foot thick ; the windows very small, with thick wooden shutters, which are close shut eighteen hours every day in the winter. There are cellars under the house, wherein we ])ut our wines, brandy, strong beer, butter, cheese, etc. Four large fires are made in great stoves, built on purpose, every day. As soon as the wood is burnt down to a coal, the tops of the chimneys are close stopped with an iron cover. This kec^jjs the heat Avifhin the house (though at the same time the snu)ke makes our heads ache, and is verv ofl'ensive and unwholesome) ; notwithstanding which, in four or five hours after the fire is out, the inside of the walls of our house and bed places will be two or three inches thick with ice, which is every morning cut away with a hatchet. Three ^i- four times a day vvc make iron shot of twenty-four pounds weight red hot, and hang them up in the windows of our aj)art- ments. 1 have a good fire in my room the major part of tlu? twenty-four hours, yet all this will not preserve my beer, wine, ink, etc. from freezing. " For our winter dress, we make use of three pair of socks of coarse blanketting or Duffield for the feet, with a pair of deer-skin shoes over them ; two pair of thick English stock- ings, and a pair of cloth stockings ujion them ; breeches lined with flannel ; two or three English jackets, and a fur or leather gown over them ; a large beaver cap, double, to come over the face and shoulders, and a cloth of blanketting under the chin ; Avith yarn gloves, and a large pair of beaver mittens hanging doAvn from the shoulders before, to put our hands in, which reach up as high as our elbows : yet, not- withstanding this warm clothing, almost every day some of the men that stir abroad, if any Avind bloAvs to the nortlnvard, are dreadfully froze ; some have their arms, hands, and faces, blistered and froze in a terrible manner, the skin comiug ofi" soon after they enter a Avarm house, and some have lost their toes, NoAV their lying in lor the cure of these frozen parts brings on the scurvy in a lamentable manner. Many have 132 middi.eton's voyage [i.ii ifi n dictl of it, and few are free from that distemper. I have procvircd them all the helps I could from the diet this cou7itry affords in winter, — such as fresh fish, partridges, broths, etc., — and the doctors have used their utmost skill in vain ; for I find nothing will prevent that distemi^cr from being mortal but exercise and stirring abroad. " I also find the effects of cold occasion a great error in the time of the sun's rising and setting, making the refraction of the atmosphere much greater than in Europe. " I have observed the apparent time of the sun's central rising and settini>- for five or six months in the winter with a good level three or four days in a week. I had a good second watch of Mr. George Graham's for the time ; having computed the sun's true place, thence his declination, at the time when such appearance hajipened, and found his apparent rising sooner than the true time by near eight minutes, and his setting apparently so much later, so that the apparent day is longer than the real or astronomical day by almost sixteen minutes, and consequently the apparent night is so much shorter than the true night, making the horizontal refraction more than a degree. And as the refrac- tion occasions an error in the time of the sun's rising and setting, so it likewise vitiates the amplitude ; and this must be precisely heeded by mariners, or they will never gain the declination of the magnetic needle with any certainty, a thing of no small use and im2)ortance in the art of navi- gation. " In .B. I used a level, by reason these observations M'cre takc^n upon a place forty feet above the surface of the ocean, and about seven or eight feet above all the land in the way of the sun's rising and setting in the middle of winter. " I am surprised those learned gentlemen, the French astronomers, Avhci wei'e sent from the Academy of I'aris to the polar parts to observe and measure the figure of the earth, sliould find the refraction ol' the atmosphere It) be no TO HUDSON' BAY. 133 cr. I have o diet this partridges, Host skill in 'iiiper from :at error in e refraction n's central he winter I had a the time ; cclination, fonnd his lear eight -r, so that iiiical day ipjjarent dving the le rcfrac- siiig and his must ver gain ertainty, :)f navi- •ns wcxc ocean, he way French *aris to of the 1)0 no more than in France or England, when they complain of such extreme cold, and certainly not without reason. " Corona; and jiarhelia, commonly called halos and mock suns, appear frequently about the sun and moon here. They are seen once or twice a week about the sun, and once or twice a month about the moon, for four or live months in the Avinter ; several of different diameters appearing at the same time. " I have seen five or six parallel coronas concentric with the sun several times in the winter, being for the most part very bright, and always attended with halos or mock suns. The parhelia are always accompanied with coronas if the weather is clear, and cent i rue for several days together, from the sun's rising to his setting. These rings are of various colours, and about forty or fifty degrees in diameter. " The frequent appearance of these phenomena in this frozen clime seems to confirm Des-Carte's hypothesis, who supposes them to proceed from ice suspended in the air. " The aurora borealis is much oftener seen here than in England ; seldom a night passes in the winter free from their appearance. They shine with a surprising brightness, dark- ening all the stars and planets, and covering the whole hemisphere ; their tremulous motion from all parts, their beauty and lustre, are much the same as in the northern parts of Scotland and Denmark, etc. " The dreadful long winters here may almost be compared to the polar parts, where the absence of the sun continues for six months ; for though we have that luminary here all the twelve nu)ntlis, yet the air is perpetually chilled and frozen by the northerly winds in winter, and the cold fogs and mists obstructing the sun's beams in the short sunnner we have here ; for, notwithstanding the snow and ice is then dissolved in the low lands and plains, yet the mountains are perpetually covered with snow, and incrcdi])le large bodies of ice in tli(^ adjacent seas. If the air blows from the southern E'» . if i-i ii ':^ \U MIDDLETON S VOYAGE parts, the air is tolerably warm, but very cold when it conies from the nortliward, and it seldom blows otherwise than between the N.E. and N.W., except in the two summer months, when we have for the major part light gales between the east and the north, and calms. " The northerly winds being so extreme cold is owing to the neighbourhood of high mountains, whose tops are perpe- tually covered with snow, which exceedingly chills the air passing over them. The fogs and mists that are brought here from the polar parts, in -winter, appear visible to the naked eye in icicles innumerable, as small as fine hairs or threads, and pointed as ?harp as needles. These icicles lodge on our clothes, and if our faces or hands be uncovered, they presently raise blisters as white as a linen cloth and as hard as horn ; yet if wc immediately turn our backs to the weather, and can bear our hand out of oui mitten, and with it rub the blistered part for a small time, we sometimes bring the skin to its former state ; if not, we make the best of our way to a fire, and get warm Avater, whercAvith we bathe it, and thereby dissipate the humours raised by the frozen air, otherAvise the skin Avould be off' in a short time, Avith much hot, serous, Avatcry matter coming from under along Avith the skin. And this happens to some almost every time they go abroad, for five or six months, in the winter, so extreme cold is the air Avhon th'.; Avind bloAVS anything strong. " Now I have observed, that Avhcn it has been extreme hard frost by the thermometer, and little or no Avind that day, the cold has not near so sensibV affected us' as Avhen the thermometer has shcAvn much less freezing, having a brisk gale of northerly Avind at the same time. This differ- ence may perhaps be occasioned by those sharp-pointed icicles, before-mentioned, striking more forcibly in a Avindy day than in calm Avoather, thereby penetrating the naked skin, or parts but thinly covered, and causing an acute sensa- ' Sir Jvlwiird Parry makes u prociocly bimilar remark. TO IIinsON 15\Y. \ '.].') icn it conies ^Twise than ivo summer les between is owing to are perpe- ills the air 'c brought iblo to the ae hairs or icles lodge ered, they d as hard e weather, it rub the §■ the skin ' way to a d thereby wise the serous, in. And oad, for the air extreme ind that IS when aving a differ- pointed windy naked scnsa- tion of pain or cold. And the same I'cason, I think, will hold good in other ])laces ; for should the Avind blow northerly anything hard for many days toa[cthcr in Euij^land, the icich>s that would be brought from the polar parts by the continu- ance of such a wind, would, though imperceptible to tlu; naked eye, more sensibly affect the naked skin, or ]);uts but slightly covered, than when the thermonu'ter has shewn a greater degree of freezing, and there has been little or no wind at the same time. " It is not a little surprising to many, that such extreme cold should be felt in these })arts of America more than in places of the same latitude on the coast of Korway; but the difference I take to be occasioned by wind blowing con- stantly here, for seven months in the twelve, between the N.E. and N.W., and passing over a large tract of land and exceeding high mountains, etc., as before mentioned. Whereas at Drunton,' in Norway, as I observed some years ago in wintering there, the Avind all the winter comes from the north and N.N.W., and crosses a great part of the ocean clear of those large bodies of ice we find here perpetually. At this place we have constantly every year nine months' frost and snow, and unsufferable cold from October till the beginning of May. In the long winter, as the air becomes less ponderous towards the polar parts, and nearer to an a^quilibriuni, as it happens about one day in a week, we then have calms and light airs all round the compass, conti- nuing sometimes twenty-four hours, and then back to its old place again, in the same manner as it happens every night in the West Indies, near some of the islands. '■' Th'> snow that f dls here is as fine as dust, but never any hail, except at the beginning and end of winter. Almost every full and change of the moon very hard gales from the north. " The constant triide-winds in these 'loithern parts, I think ' Tronilhjem, or Drniithciiii, ! i ' i !:](> MIDDMION S V(>YA(;K i* I i! *^' a p 1) iiiul()\i1>t('(lly to j)r()('c('(l iVoiM the same principle wliicli our Icanu'd Dr. JIalley coiic(>ivos to be the cause of the trade- wiiuls near the ('(piator, and th(>ir variations. " * Wind,' says he, ' Is most properly defined to be the streiim or cnrrcMit of tlu> air ; and where such current is per- ])ctual, and fixed in its cours(<, 'tis necessary that it proceed from a permanent and nninterniitting cause, capable of pro- ducing a lik(^ constant effect, and agreeable to tlu^ known properties of air and water, and the hiws of motion of fluid bodies. Such an one is, I conceive, the action of the sun's beams upon the air and water, as he passes every day ovcu* the oceans, considered together with th(> nature of the soil and situation of the adjoining continents. I say, tlu^refore, first, that according to the hiws of statics, the air, which is less rarified or expanded by heat, and consequently more ponderous, must have a motion towards thosc^ parts thereof which arc mor(^ rarified and less ponderous, to bring it to an anpiilibrium,' etc. " Now that the cold dense air, by reason of its great gravity, continually presses from the polar parts towards ;Lc e([uator, where the air is more rarified, to preserve an a^qui- librium, or balance of the atmosphere, I think is very evident from the Avind in those fro/en regions blowing from the n(n-th and north-west from the beginning of October until May ; for we find that when the sun at the beginning of June has warmed those countries to the northward, then the south-east-cast and variable winds continue till October again ; and I don't doubt but the trade winds and hard gales may be found in the southern i)olar parts to bloAV towards the eqiuitor, Avhcn the sun is in the northern signs, from the same principle. " The limit of these winds from the polar parts towards the equator is seldom known to reach beyond the thirtieth degree of latitude, and the nearer they approach to that limit, the shorter is the continuance of those winds. In ^ ^^iiSSX. TO IUDSON HAY, i;; > I ' wliicli our f tlic tradc- 1 to 1)(> the lent is j)rr- i it proceed l)lo of pro- tlio known on of fluid i' the sun's y day ovov of the soil , therefore, ', which is ntly moiT Its thereof 'ig it to an its f>Teat wards .i.c an a^qui- y evident from the Iher until pinino- of then the Octoher rd jrales towards •oni the towards |hirti(>th to tliat Is. In New England it hlows from the nortii near four months in tlie winter; at Canada al)out live montiis ; at the Dane's Settlement in Strait Davis, in ijie sixty-third decree of lati- tude, near seven months ; on the coast of Norway, in (i 1°, not ahove five months and a half, hy reason of Ijlowing- over a great part of the ocean, as was hefore mentioned, for those northerly winds continue a longer or shorter s])aee of time, according to the air's heing more or less rarified, which may V(>ry prohahly he altered several (hgrees, l)y ihe nature of the soil, and the situation ol'tlie adjoining continent. " The vast bodies of ice Ave meet with in oui' passage from England to Hudson's Ihiy is very surprising, not only as to quantity, hut magnitude", and as unaccountable how tlu;y are formed of so great a bidk, some of them being immersed one hundred fathom or moie under th(> surface of the ocean, and a fifth or sixth part above, and three or four miles in circumference. Sonu* hundreds of these we sometimes see in our voyages here, all in sight at once, if the weather is clear. Some of them are frequently seen '>n the coasts and baidcs of N("Avfoundland and New England, though much diminished. " A\'hen I have been becalmed in Hudson's Strait for three or four tides together, 1 have taken mv boat and laid close to th(? side of one of them, sounded and found one hundred fathom water all round it. 'J'h(> tide floweth here above four fathom, and I have observed by marks upon a body of ice the tide to rise and fall that difference, Avhich Avas a c(>rtainty of its being aground. Likewise, in a har- bour in the Island of Resolution, Avhere I continued four days, three of these isles of ice (as avc call them) came aground : I sounded along by the side of one of them, qvutc round it, and found thirty-' wo i'athom Avater, and the height aboA'e the siu'f'ace but ten yards ; another was twenty- oiglit i'athom under, and the perpendicular height but nine Yards above the Avatcr. IS Il ' i I 138 MlUDLKTOiN S VOYAOF, W > " I can in no other manner account for the aggregation of such large bodies of ice but this. All along the coasts of Straits Davis, both sides of Baffin's Bay, Hudson's Straits, Anticosti, or Labrador, the land is very high and bold, and one hundred fathoms or more close to the shore. These shores have many inlets or fuirs,' the cavities of which arc filled up "svith ice and snow by the almost perpetual winters there, and froze to the ground, increasing for four, five, or seven years, till a kind of deluge or land fiood, which com- monly happens iu that space of time throughout those parts, breaks them loose, and launches them into the straits or ocean, where they are dro\e about by the variable winds and currents in the months of June, July, and August, rather increasing than diminishing in bulk, being surrounded (except in four or five points of the compass) with smaller ice for many hundred leagues, and land covered all the year with snow, the weather being extreme cold for the most part in those summer months. The smaller ice that almost fills the straits and bays, and covers many leagues out into the ocean along the coast, is from four to ten fathom thick, and chills the air to that degree, that there is a constant increase to the large isles by the sea washing against them, and the perpetual wet fogs, like small rain, freezing as they settle upon the ice; and their being so deeply immersed under water, and such a small part above, prevents the wind having much power to move them; for though it blows from the north-west quarter near nine months in the tAvelve, and consequently those isles are drove towards a warmer climate, yet the progressive motion is so slow, that it must take up many years before they can get five or six hundred leagues to the southward; I am of opinion some hundreds of years are required, for they cannot, I think, dissolve before they come between the fiftieth and fortieth degree of latitude, where the heat of the sun consuming the ' Filths or fioiclt?. 4 'il '^ TO IirnsoN HAY. i;j{) ■grcgation of ho coasts of on's Straits, (I bold, and ore. These f which arc tual winters bur, five, or which com- those parts, e straits or iable winds id August, surrounded t'ith smaller all the year r the most that almost ?s out into hoin thick, a constant inst them, as they immersed vents the though it hs in the towards a low, that ve or six lion some I think, :1 fortieth ming the \ippcr parts, they lighten and waste in time. Yet there is a jierpetual supply from the northern parts, which will ';o continue; as long as it jilcases the Author of all Hciiigs to keep things in their present state. " Ohsifi'dtioiis of the lomiitudc, latitude, and the derlinailon of the macjiietir, needle, at Prince of IJ^ales's Fort, Chnr chill Ricer. 'The true time of the emersion of the , "• first satellite of Jupiter at London, IS according to Mr. Pound's tables, .J Mf J2()M,< The true time of th(^ emersion at),, \l\Ul. Churchill ^ *' Ma re] I '2;J 5.) ;•)() oO The horary difference of meridians. . (5 !2S 00 "Which converted into degrees of the e([uator, gives ninety-seven degrees, the distance of the meridian of Chur- chill from that at Lcmdon. Wherefore, since the time at London was more than that at Churchill (according to this observationj, Churchill must be ninety-seven degrees west from London. '' I took several other ob'^ervations, which agreed one with another to less than a minut:^, but this I look upon as the most distinct and best. " The observation was made with a good fifteen-foot re- fracting telescope, and a two-foot reflector of Gregory's kind, having a good watch of Mr. Graham's that I could depend upon ; for I had frequent opportunities of discover- ing how much its variation amounted to, and constantly found its daily deviation or error to be fifteen seconds too slow, by which means it was as useful to me for all pur])oses as if it had gone most constantly true without any change. This watch I kept in my fob in the day, ani^ in bed in 3!t 140 MIDDr.KTDN S VOYAfiK ii: ^ ! ■', I !•■ * the night, to preserve it from the severity of the weatlier, for I observed that all other watches spoiled hy the ex- treme cold. " I have found, from repeated observationy, a method of obtaining the true time of the day at sea, by taking eight or ten different altitudes of the sun or stars when near the prime vertical, by JNIr. Smith's or INIr. lladley's quadrant, which I have practised these three or four years past, and never found from the calculations that they differed one from another more than ten or fifteen seconds of time. This certainty of the true time at sea is of greater use in the prac- tice of navigation than may appear at first sight, for you thereby not only get the variation of the compass without the help of altitudes, but likewise the variation of the needle from the true meridian, e\ery time the sun or star is seen to transit the same. Also having the true time, day or night, you may be sure of the meridian altitude of the sun or star, if you get a sight fifteen or twenty minutes before or after it passes the meridian, and the latitude may be obtained to less than five minutes, with several other uses in astrono- mical observations ; as the refraction of the atmosphere, and to allow for it, by getting the sun's a^jparcnt rising and setting, which anybody is capable of doing, and from thence you will have the refraction. " If we had such a telescope contrived as Mr. Smith re- commends to be used on ship-board at sea, now we can have an exact knowledge of the true time of the day or night from the above instruments and a good watch; I hope we should be able to observe the eclipses of the first satellite of Jupiter, or any otli(;r phccnomcna of the like kind, and thereby find the distance of meridians or longitude at sea. " The variation of the magnetical needle, or sea compass, observed by me at Churchill in 1725 (as in No. 393 of the Pliilosophical Transactions for the months of March and April 1726), was at that time north 21° westerly, and this T() in DSON HAY. 141 he weatlier, l>y the ex- inctliod of in^>' eiglit or n near the s quadrant, fs i)ast, and ift'cred one iine. Tliis n the prac- it, for yen iss witliout ion of the n or star is me, day or 3f the sun ji before or c obtained astrono- lere, and ising and m thence ■winter I have carefully observed it at the same place, and fiiul it no more than 17°, so that it has differed about one degree in four years ; for in 17^38, I observed it here, and found its declination IS^ Mcsterly. I have carefully ob- served, and made })roper allowance for the sun's declination and refraction, and find the latitude here to be 58" 5(5' north; but in most ^larts of the -world, where the latitudes are fixed by seamen, they are for the most part falsely laid down, for want of having regard to the variation of the sun's declina- tion, which computed at a distant meridian, when the siui is near the equator, may make a great error in the sun's rising and setting, azimuths, etc. " These things I thought proper to take notice of, as they may be of service to navigators, and the curious in natural inquiries." ClIRlSTOrjrER MiDDLETON. 5mith re- can have or night hope we satellite ind, and it sea. om2)ass, i of the ch and md this riNTs. I i li I i .\ !l '■■l I: INDEX. ARoinisen, sailing directions for, 53 Akjiiitok Fsliind, foraierlj calloil Anio- coiiiiinko, 11 AUiiiiiy, Hudson's Bay Company's set- tlement at, 57 ; wrested from them liy tli(! l''rencli, hut afterwards con- firmed to them liy the Treaty of I'treeht, 57 Aiiuu'omaMko (now called Akpatok Island), U Artiwinipeck, s()-H7 Hudson's Bay Company's settlement at, (')5 its mountains, etc. 8'2-b3; irregularity of its tides, b'3 B. Barra and Tiona, islands of, 7 Belchers and Sleeper Islands, ()(i Bilot, Ii(diert, made a fruitless attempt to gain Ca])e Chai'les, 71 IJoke of ^MauNfield, a name given hy Captain ('oals to a narrow clianuel neai' the north end of Carieswaus- nest, (J!) Ik'ook Cohhani, whales and seals abound there, '2',) Mutton, Sir Thonuis, his voyage of discovery in Ifll'J, 2 Button's Islands, 1(! C. Canuce Creeks, 54 Charles, Cajie, 17 the harhours ahont, :tl fruitless attem])t of Ro- bert Bilot to gain tjiis jioint, 71 -'s I'ort, the first settlement of the Hudson's Bay Company, 57 C'hurchill, reniarlialiU- increase in its heaver trade, Its Uivcr, its latitude and lon- gitude given, ;15 Churchill River, ohservations on the etl'ects of cold, etc. at, hy Captain C. Middletou, Appendix, 1'2H Coapache-mie-se])ee, ^"4 Coats, Captain AVilliam, sails for Hud son's St)'aits, 10; remarks in 1741, on the longitude from Hoyhead to llesolution, 11; his shij) sunk l>y the ice in 17.,'7, near Caj)e I'arewell, I'-l ; met witli a similar disa-^ter in 17:t(i, I'J; atteni])ted to enter Hud- son's Straits six times in 17 M!) with- out success, IK-Ii); the idea of a western sea seems to have occupied liis mind, "•^5; coiTectness of his des(!ription of tlio l']s(juiinaux con- firmed hy Captain Lyon in lH'24,7:t; Induced the Hudson's i!ay Com- pany in 174!) to attemi)t a settle- ment among the Estpiimaux at Hudson's Bay, 7H ; struck witli tlui amazing grandeur and beauty of Artiwinijieck from tht^ sea, S(i-HH; intended his remarks to he pi'e- served to jiosierity, Hs ; interview with a tribe of Indians in 17 50 at Deception, i)0 ; his directions re- lative to tlie puldication of his re- nnu'ks, !)1 ; contdusion, !l'-2 Comfort, Cape, narrow escajie from shipwreck of Sir (ieorge ISack olf this coast in ls:{7, 70 CronuMtie and Chaunery, tiie iiar- liours of, s Cuhh, a large rock near Bear Islands, 4(t D. Danby'>^ and Carey's Inlands, Captain James wintered there, 5H Decoy, tlie, a jilace so called by t.'ap- tain Coats, yw Diggs, Cape, IM, 'V.) the variation of tlie Ui'e- dle in 174!) at, s| Die liaireii nature of llie ciiiisi til (iidf llii/ard, Ml 144 INUKX. E. 77-7H "" "^ ^"P'.'iin Coats, ■Ks'ininianx, ,.,ilIo,l»7r,„,,; „ , l,„„ 7—- ».;«.imt„r,i,„ ,„;,■; "■':-s„;:^;,;;'y- --■■" »r .1,,. G. j^'#:ssfiE;:::^ r A'"i„n,„„',i,:„;i."'."''J;.f ■-""■■■ i„ I,, ^"i' llieir ,.,,„, i, I '■' ''V' ':""^r'nious 77 ' ' l'"<<'''"'^' I'l'oiH'iisiiic.s -"Mis, u,„| 4,, " •"'^■. ^!'; ul.alos, ^^J'H'sc i;iv„.. '<■""' ••'"■'•1' nt ,vnf ■ -<'"l"ii vi( iU(]()s(' |,'jv(i|' ■■"/. < "'ii.s, HO, Hr, ' "'"'^'' '0 < allium .Jf*^^ INDEX. 145 ly of, why so 1 liy (^'i)]i« 'ill f llllll 1111,110 liere, 17 1 voyiijjn ill st iiassa<,'e, 4 . oC tllC CDJlst (ke mill (ha- lted by Cap- licir iiirnads uilsou's iiay trac'l ol' tlio lines Kiii^lii [V aiK'liorago It; abmiiuls llcsll, 1(11(1 iliiihitiii;! its allo.l I'laiu 'vly C'liiM! ir sailin^JT Ids ol' ils I'MllS, lllld ■ IT) 111 ol' llic \\o of tlic 'ar, N',) Indians of llio s ni'iii- |('ii|itain Holni Sound, in }Io|)i''s iVdvaiK't^, Ray of, l-l Hoianvell Clianiudl, H(i Hoad, the naturo of the tides at, M Hoyhead, its latitude and lonj^itude, li Hoy Sound, 10 Hudson, nu'iitioned in Sir J. Harrow's "(ylironolo^dcal History of the Air- tic Keu'ions" as the first of tin' norllKM'ii nnvij^ators, and probably lilt' tirst l',n^flislini;in who made ob- st'i'viitioiis oil the iiiclinatioii or dip of the needle, 1 Hudson's ibiy, its wijstern lakes occu- pied by a mixed jieople of many tribes, 41 ; western tide enters, vi!( the ice renders it dan- ^'(■rous to remain there after the middle of September, !)0 ; its pierc- ing' wind-- to b(i ;l\()idiil, !)1 ; sliow- , to survi'y the coast from Cape Piggs down to Labrador, with a view of forming a settlement tiiere, 7S Hudson's Straits, the dangerous na- ture of the ice at the mouth of, I'-i ; its situation described, \'i ; its tides, Vi ; abounds in fine harbours, V-l position described, 17; influence upon the tides parti- cularly aUuded to, 17, IH; the stores, provisions, and other refpiisites for slii])s navigating its waters, 18 ; the best period to enter the straits, IH ; the ice, its diversity of form and cha- racter, l!)-D'J ; caution necessary for entering the mouth of, 'Vi ; the \io lence of the (ides ut, v».'t ; the land connected with it, 80 Huskies, tin.' common aiipellalion for the i;s((uimaux amongst the whalers (d' the jnvsent day, 15 Ici' cove, its safe harbour, II Indians, tlu^ bapjiy coiidiiioii of those inhabiting the lakes near Hudson's l!ay, 41, 4'-J ; their great hosjiiinlity, 4'.i ; an interesting illustration of this, 4"-i; wisdom in their claMce of names, 4:1 the iitlliience aiiil i)lenly of those iiibiibiting the (ireal While Wliiile Kiver, fi.') Home Indians, a tribe inhabit ing tlie lakes east of Hudson's Mitv, 41 Northern Indians, their luibiis described, M'i ; fondness for iron, :>•.' Northern liidiniis occupying the interior of Labrador, ss ; their manners and customs, hs ; \ei-y dirty in their jiersons, !)0 Western Indians, their mode of life and form of government, ;!•'( .T. .fames Ibiy, 51, s5 — sailing directions for, 40 James, ('apinin, his voyagi' in seiirch of the north-west passnge, 1 K. Kelst\v, JNlr., sii))posed to have tra- velled among the Southern Indians, 40 Kickovan, river, so called by the na- tives, (iO Knight, Cajitain .lamei, winti'red at (iilpin's islands in Kl'.t'J, fi',' ; the fatal results of his expedition in I7I!)-'-il, iVi, (i;i Knight's Hill, its dangers to seamen, ;tH Kokeishpenny, an island iieiir Alliiiny Roaiis, H be of Indians of the Noda- Indians, their I'iscotagemies, a tribe of Indians fre- (lucnting the Moose River, 41 I'i 'iamis(juo\v, Biver, 55 V I. md Grass Islands (now called < V' n Islands), 14 I'o, i; ook (Jnt, its latitude, b'2; ice an.. L, Ciua-(iua-chick-i\van, (iU R. Repulse Bay, 71 iiesolution, Cape, 11 Islands, l.'J Richmond Channel, H(i its fine anchor- age, 80 Fort, 84, 88 the tides at, M erected to accommo- date the wandering tribes of North- ern Indians, 78 Rockall, a small rock in tlie Atlan- tic, 7 Rockele, p^Tamid of, 7 Roe's, Sir Thomas, Welcome, '-iS S. Saddle Back, island of, recommended as a good liarbom", 14 Saguina and Tadussock, la'.es of, 55 ; the country near famous for hunt- ing, 55-5(i Savage Islands, Lower and Middle, 14 I'oint, L'} called by some God's Mercys, 1(! Seahorse I'oint, narrow escape from shipwreck of Sir George liack oif this coast in 1837, 70 Seal River, from whenc j the Northern Indians come down to trade at CliurchUl River, ;Jl-3-.i Severn lliver, 4(1 Shark I'oint, 70 Skerry, Island of, 7 Smitli, Cape, 8()-n1 's Sound, barrenness of tlio coast to Cape Diggs, 85 the nature of the tides at, 83 Southampton, Cape, 31 Stroom, the, 10 Stack, the ishuid of, rcmarkalile for its vast (luiintities of eggs, 7 St. Kilda, the islands of, 7 Superior, Lake, Jl T. '' bitabies, ii tribe of Indians fi'e- ([Ueiiting the Moose River, 41 Tliekeiowesakee Masshishcock, a- bounds in geese, 55 Tides, their diaracteristics and influ- ences, •-i'i-'-i4 ; the times and heiglits of at Resolution Island, '-^4 Twins, two islands near Agomisco, (iO ; well wooded and abounding iv deer, GO W. Wager, Sir Charles, letters from Cap- tain C. Middleton to, relative to his voyage of discovery in 174'i, 117-'.il Strait, or Jiiver, its resem- blance to a sea, :t0-3l Walker, Cai)e, the desolate coast sotUh-west of, refen-ed to by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, Ml Wanvick, Cape (now called Hatton's Headland), 11-1' AN hale Cove, ri'uuu'kable fiu* the num- ber of whales and seals in its vici- nity, Q!), M White Straits, 15-10 Winnipeg, Lake, called by the Indians Winipeggon-e-sepe, or tlie Great Sea, 30 ; its natui'al productions, 3!) 40 Winipeggon-e-sepe, now called Lake Winnipegg, 30 Wrath, Cape, 7 Y. York Fort, the principal trading place of the country, 30 Itioii, II p ll ii' I,' IN DON : lilCITAIiDS, ;l~ OliKAT QUF.KN STHKF.T, i.incoln'h inn. -iwci TIIK IIAKLUYT SOCIETY. President. Sll; Kohl'.HK IC IMI'i;V Mri!. Acii.l. Sc S(. 1','lri sliiirt,'. Xr ,(..-. Vice-Presidents. TitK i-:aiu. ok i:i.i.i.sMi;i!r.. cai'tain c. n. 1). liiimiNi:, k.n., c.h. Council. 1Iem;-.\iimi.. Sin K. I'.KA ll-OltT, K.C.M. < IIAIII.KS T. r.l.Ki;, i:sc;., I'hil. D.. K.S.A. 'iiiK i.iiini Ai.i i;i;i) s. ciil'Kcim.i,. \V. II. ((Mil.llV, ISii. liOl.ToN ((iliNKY. KsQ., M.li.S.I,. TlIK ItKillT 111 V. I.IJIM) lilSllcil' l)V ST. HAViDS. 'liu: VisiniNP |:as|N()I!. Siu IllNKV 1:1.1, IS. K.ll., IMI.S. HiniARn Kol!I), KsQ. .101 IN hOliSTKl!, Ksij. 1!. W. iil!i;V. V.^'i: M.I'. riidM.VS IKHXIKI.N, |;s(3., M.D. .lOIlN WIN IKK. KINKS, Ksq. Silt ni.viji.Ks i.i;m(in, hakt., M.r. 1". i.KVKsiiii;, i;s.) rilllMAS KI'NIIAI.I,. I'.SQ. ■I'm; llnN. IIKNUV K.J. STANLEY. Honorary Secretary. It. II. M A.I (II!, Ksc... K.li.G.S. Bankers. MkssIIS. JidrVl'.KlK ANIl Co., II. llAY.MAliKi;T. THE II.VKLUYT SOCIETY, which is establishca for the r'lrpose of iirintinjif rare or uujiulilished Voyages and Travels, anus at opening by this means an easier access to the sources of a branch of know- ledge, which yieMs to none in ini]iortance, and is sujierior to most in agreeable variety. The narratives of travellers and navigators make us aciiuainted with the earth, its inhabitants and productions ; they exhiliit the growth of intercourse among mankind, with its ett'ects on civilization, and, while instructing, they at the same time awaken attention, by recounting the toils and adventures of those who first explored unknown and distant regions. The advantage of an Association of this kind, consists not merely in its system of literary co-operation, but also in its economy. The ac<|uire- ments, taste, and discrimination of a number of individuals, who feel an interest in the same jiursuit, are thus brought to act in voluntary com- bination, and the ordinary charges of publication are also avuideil, so that the volumes proiluced, are distributed among the Members (who can abme obtain them) at little more than the cost of printing and pajier. The Society expends nearly the whole of its funds in printing works for the Members ; and since the cost of each cojjy varies inversely as the whole number of copies printed, it is obvious that the Members are gainers ii,a,&a. T 1, i i L f ( 3 ii I- 2 individually by the prosperity of the Society, and the consequent vir;our of its operations. The Members are requested to hear in mind that the power of the Council to make advanta,2;eous arrana;emcnts, will depcn't: , 'n'i ^ns of Sir Richard Hawkins, Knt. Tn his Yoyapro into " : Sea in 15!):}. l!opriiU(Ml from the oditiim of l(i-^v!, and odhet. (Jupt. <"' Tl. Diiinkwatkh liETnr.NK, I'.N., C.J3. Select Letters of Columbus. With Orif,'inal Dncumonts vi'latiiii,' to the Drscovi-nv of tlic N'fav AVori.d. Translated and Editeil by II. II. Ma.iok, Esq., of tlie British ^luseuni. The Discoverie of the Empire of Guiana, V>y Sin "Wat.tf.t! TiAT.r.oir, Knt. Edited, with Co)iious b'-xidanntory Notes, and a IMoiiraiiliical IMcmoir. by Siit I'oiu'.kt H. ScuojiiuiiciK, I'liil. D., etc. Sir Francis Drake his Voyage, 1595, By Thomas I\rAVNAUM'., to.LrttI .t wiib tlic Spiiiii>li Aci'oi.nt of Drake's Attack on Puerto liico, edited from tlie Ori^^iual ^ISS., by \V. 1). Cooi.KV, Esq. Narratives of Early Voyages Undertaken for tlu^ Discovery of a T'iissn<,'e to (^'atitaia and Intua, by tlie Northwest, witli Selections from tlie I!ecor. Edited, with Notes and nn Introduction, by John Wintki! Joxks, Esq., of the British ]\Iusenni. A Collection of Documents on Japan, With a Comiie'iiiary, by 'I'homas liiNOAi.t., Lmj. J 4ii M snt vif^our ver of the in a great re paviililc Secretary, Islington ; nn Fields, ve received ' their sub- e edition of ., C.B. .'f,\v Worn. 1 1 ilixseum. y Notes, and ;. I)., etc. nkc's Attack .i:v, Esq. ."TiiA, liy the ■llii\vslii|) of uiii :MSS. ill 1^,'cther witli II iis well l,y hit., the first ■iciipt ill the ■icuni. Kr.TYT, Tre- IntrndiU'.tion, ;* 8 The Discovery and Conquest of Florida, By Don Fimuunammi i.i; Snio. 'i'liiii-liitcd (lilt (if I'oriiii^'iicsc liv riicliiird Jliikluyt; and Kditcd, with Ndlcs mid nn Iiitrddiiciidii, liy \V. li. jlvi;, K^q., ol the llrili-.li .Mn>\ts, in many Voyajjes to that locality, hetweeii the years I7vi7 and IT.")!. \\ itii an A]ipeii(lix, eontainin;,' l'..vtraets from the Log of Cavt. Mihulkion' on liis \(iyat,'e for the ilis(.'o\eiy oi the North-west Passage, in II. .M.S. ■' l-"iiiiiace', in 1711 •4. Edilt'd Ity John Bauuov, Es([., F.il.^\, I'.S.A. Written liy !'( lie edited To 111 Other Works in Progress. The Second Voi,u:\rE oi' Nori:s vi'on 1ii>sia. Dhake. — The world i')ic()iiq)(ii liy \\'. Sandys Vai x, Es(i., ]M.A. SoFAi.An. — The History of Kastein Kthiojiia, liy J. dos ' 'ov 1007 'J"ranslated, with Notes, hy \V. l)i>iioitor(iH Cooii -l ^q. The I'Iasi-India ^'ovaoe oe Sui IIeniiv ^Iiddeeion in liiOl-'). I'ldm the rare Ivlitioii of KiOli. Edited liy Boi.idN Counev, Estj. A Coi.Li'.c TioN OE Eai!I.v Doci'iNiENTs, to form a Sniqilenieiit to the Narrative of Voyages towards the North West, liy T. Ulndale, E>,t[. De Mokga. — Sucesos en las Islas Filiiiinas. Works suggested to the Council for Publication. FuESCORAl.Di. — The Travels of Eivscolialdi in I'.'-'yiit and Syria, in l-'isl. Translated from the Italian text as edited liy ^lan/i. BETHENCoruT. — A History of the Discovery and (.'oii([neNt of the Canary Islands, made liy .lean de Bethenc(airt, in llO'^-'Jo. Froni tiie Eiench Narrative of his Clnqilains, Pierre Bontier and Jean le N'enier. Ca da Mosro. — The \d,\a:;cs of Ca da Mo>to along the \\'esteni Coa>t of Africa in 14.")4. Traii>lated from the Italian text of 1')(I7. Yiikhnia. — Vir;4inia in the years ir)H4-l(lli(l ; cominisin^' the Narratives of Arthur Barlowe, Italf Lane, Thomas llaniot, etc. Cadiz. — A Brief and True INqiort of the Iloiionralile Voyage to Cadiz, l.")!)(J. From the suppressed eiUtion of I'liis, with additions. C01.0XIZ.VT10N. — Pam]ihlets on Ccdoni/atioii. By Sir William Alexander (after- wards Earl of Steihne), and James llai^thoriie. JoA.M DE Castko. — Kotiero em que se coiitem a Viageni que tizerani os Portii- gnozes no anno de loll, iiartinando da Citade de (ioa atre Suez. China. — The Histoiie of the !.'reat and mightie Kin;,'donie of China and the situation thereof. Translated cuil of Spaiii-li liy 1!. Parke. London, loHH. Gaevano. — Tratado dos descoliiimentos anti;,'os e modeiiios feitos ate a era de IDoU, coiuposto pelo famoso Antonio Ualvao. Lisboa, 17:il. 4 ■j il m Laws of the Hakluyt Society. I. Tlie (ilijt'ct of tliis Socii'ty slmll be to iiriiit, I'or distriliution iiiiioiifrits ineniliei's, rnre and vahuihlt' \'oyai,'es, Travfls, Na\al l'',xjiL'(litiniis, ami other geot,'i'a])liical records, from an early iiei'i(iroeeedings of the Society shall be then read, and, along with the Auditor's J{e])ort, be submitted for approval, and finally, the ^Mcciiug shall proceed to elect the Council for the ensuing year. VI. At each Ainiual Klection, six of the old C(Uincil shall retire; and a list of the jiroposed new Council shall be printed for the subscribers previous to the general meeting. Yll. The Council shall meet ordinarily on the ihd Tuesday in every month, excepting August, September, and October, for the despatch of business, three fomiing a (pioruiii, and the Chairman having a casting vote. Mil. Gentlemen preparing and editing works for the Society shall receive twenty-five copies of such works respectively. IX. The number of copies printed of the Society's productions sliall not exceed the estimated number of Subscribers ; so that after the second year, w hen the Society may be sujiposed to have reached its full growth, tliei'e shall be no extra copies. X. The Society shall appoint Local Secretaries throughout the kingdom, empowered to enrol members, transmit subscriptions, and otherwise forwanl the Society's interests ; and it sliall make such aiTangements with its corre- spondents in the chief provincial towns, as will insiire to subscribers resiumg in the country the regular delivery of their volumes at moderate charges. Rules for the Delivery of the Society's 'Volumes. I. The Society's productions will lie delivered without any charge, within three miles of the General I'ost Office. II. They will be forwni'dcd to any place beyond tliat limit, the Societv ])aying the cost of booking, but not of carriage ; nor will it be answerable iii this case for any loss or damage. III. They will be delivered by the Society's agent, Mn. Thomas IlicHAitns, ;17, Great Queen Street, Linc(dn's Inn Fields, to persons having written authority of subscribers to receive them. IV. They will be sent to the Society's correspondents or agents in the ]irincipal towns throughout tlie kuigdom; and care shall be taken that the charge for carriage be as moderate as possible. v^^ '---\ imiinifrits mill (itlior L'ighteoiith n advance 111, shall lie vote at the Kit sv^nh'y, ilt'i'od as a 1 a Conncil •t'siiU'iits, a hut vacan- lie Council. ally, on the (litioM and c Auditors jirncL'cd tu tire ; and a rs previous ay in every [t's|iiitch of tin;^' vote. iciety shall IS shall not cond year, there shall kintidom, ise i'orward |i its corre- |r^ resiiuug lar.i'es. Irye, within Ihe Society Iwerahle in TiiojiAS Ins having Ints in the li that the LIST OF MEMBERS OF TJIE llAKLUYT SOCIETY Adam, Admiral SlrC, K.C.B., Greenwich Hii-liital Admiralty (The), vj ropli'H Ainslie, I'liiliii r>arringt(in, Ks(i.,St.('olnie All|iiirt,FrankHn, Ks(|., iri(i,Leadeiihall-st. Aiiii'iican !\Iini>ter, His Excellency the, l:!M, I'iccadilly Army and Navy Chili, l-\, St. Tames's ^i[. Arniwsmith, .John, Msij., Ill, S(iho-s(|uare Aslier, 'Mv. A., Iterlin Ashton, J. Y., ]'.>i|., Liveiiiool Atkinson, F. R., Esq., Manchester Baillie, David, Esq., 14, Belgrave-square llaker, William, Es(|.. .Fun., •'(, Cr(isliy-s(|. liaiiks, ^V., i';s(|.. INlelina-iilace, (irove-rd. Barrow,.!., Esq., E.li..S, 7, New-st., Spring gardens Batho, J. A., Esq., Sli, Lomliard-street ]5eatty, James, I'Nq., C.l'.., Southamiiton Beaut'ort. Bear-Admiiid Sir Eraiicis, K.C.B., F.B.S., Admiralty Becher, Captain, U.N. Beck, Dr., New York State Eihrarv.Alliaiiv Beke, Charles T.. Esij., rhil.D.,';!4, Cum- ming-street, I'eutonville Belcher, Captain Sir Edward, C.B., B.N. ]5el!. Reverend Thomas, Berliice Bell, Boliert, Escj., Norris Castle, East Cowes, I.^V. Bell, Bobert, ICsq., :(:!, Soho-square Bell, ^V., Esij., Cliurch-place, Clapham Berhice Beading Society Bei'lin, The lioyal Lihrary of Betencourt, .Vloiizo, l-'.^q., Philadelphia Bethune, Captain C. B. Diinkwater, C.B. Pi.N., Admiralty Biden, Captain Blackie, Dr.\Valter G., Yillafield, Glasgow Blackwood, (.'aptain Fr. 1'., B.N., United Ser\ice Cluli Blandi'ord, ^Marquis of, :), ^Vilton-terraee lUunt, J., E-(|., :Mortlake Blytli,.James, Es(|.,'i4, llyde-jiark-gardens Bois, H., Esq., 11(1, Feuclnu'ch-street Bombay treographical Society Bnne, :srr. F. ciki'ley-squart> Bi'iiun, (ieorge, Fs(|., 41, li(iclie>ter-row lirown,.!., E^q.,Newcastle-pl.,Clerki'nw(dl Brown, ^Y. H., Esq., Chester Bnjw;., Jdhn Carter, F'.sq., Providence, Bliode Island Bruce, .Idlm, Ks(|., F.S.A., 5, L'pper Glou- cester-street, l)orsct-s(nmre Brussels, Uuyal Library of IJullock, ('aiil.*l"redfrick. K.N., AVonlw icli Buiiney, WilUam, En(1., Hull Burnett, AV. F., Commande ', R.N., Royal Naval College, Portsmouth Camiibell, R. H. S., V]^i[., "i, Argyle-place, Regciit's-strei't Cannon, Charles. I-",sq., British Museum Carlton Club, Pall Mall Chapman, Captain, li.A., .\tliena'um Cliapman, 'William, l'".si|., Riidimond Chauncey, Henry C, E>q., New York Chichester, .L 1!., E>(|., 4'.t, Wiiiipole-st. Christie, .lonatlian ileiiiy, Es(|., i», Stan- hope-street, Hyde-park gardens j Churchill, Lord 'Alfred S., F.R.G.S., 0, Bury-street ! Clarke, Thomas, Esq., Ordnance Otlicc, I Pall :\[all Clive, Robert, E>(|., ;")•"!, Grosveiior-sireet ('(dborne. Lord, P.), Hill-street, Berkeley- square I Colleilge, Dr., Lauriston Hou^e, Chel- I tenham ' Collier, .lohn Payne, Esq., F.S.A. Colonial GtUce Congress, Library of the, T'liited States Cooh^y, W. I)., Esif., .'i:t, King-street, Bloomsbury Corney, Bolton, l'.s(i.,;\LR.S.L.,Piarnes-ter. t^'J^vwU/^ ; , n () Costello, DmUtiV, l'N<|., G-A, Acncift-roail, St. .Foliii's Wood Cotton, II. A., Ii-^i|., r>iiiiistii]il(' Cox, I'l. Will., y.^H; "I, Crown Utlice Kow, 'IVini.le Cnicrot't, ('ii|)t., li.N. Cninstouii, (i., I';s(|., (,'oivlionso, Lanark Crct', Daviil, Ksij., •,'.'(, Biisli Innc CroktT, '1'. Crol'toii, l']s(|., ;(, Gluucester- roail, < )lil riroiiiptoii Ci'owniiiscliicld, A., I'.s(|. Ciinnin;,'liaiii, ( Jipliiin Cunnin^'liaiii, I'di'i', I'lsi]., v!, Madflcy Villas, Kensin^'toii Dalryniple, Arthur, Esq., St. Giles, Norwich Daniel, (i., Ks(|., F.L.S., St. .Tolm's "Wood De la H.'c'lic, Sir Jleiiry, K.ll., vis, ,Jer- niyn-strci't !)(■ Lasaiix, Miss Donnctt, W. H., Esq., Boston, U.S. Dii'ktMis, Charles, Esq., Tavistock I [ous(>, 'J'avistock S([nare Dilko, C. Wcntwortli, Escj., 70, Sloaiic-st. Dilke, C. AV., I'",s(j., Jim., 7(),S]oaii(,'-strc(a Dislirowc, Sir J'klward, K.C.Ji., St. Kathurine's, Regent's-jiark Drake, Samuel G., Esq., Boston, T7. S. Dry, Thos., Esij., vj:'), Lincoln's Inn Eiidds East India Company, 'I'he yon. the Court of Directors of the, "^0 ropii's Eastiior, \'iscoiuit, -1."), (irosveiior-jil. Jidmondsion, .lames, l';s(i., 7, Trafaljj;ar- s(]uare, Twickenham Ellesmore, The i'larl of, is, l)el','rave-sq. Ellice,]{t. Hon. J^lward, .ALl'., IS, Arling- ton-street Elliot, .T. B., Esij., Tatna Ellis, Sir Henry, K.H.,F.R.S., A-c.,Ei-itish .Museum Elphiustone, Lord, 14, St. George's place Elphinstone, -John F., Esq., •,':}, York-ter., iiegent's-jiark Elphinstone, Lieut., '■), Chesham-place, 15elgrave-s(iuare iMiderliv, Charles, Esq., East (ireenwich Ethersey, Commander, H.E.I.C.S. Evans, Captain George, 1{.X. Fayrer, Joseph, Esq., M.D., Eoyal West- minster Ophthalmic Hospital, Charing- cross Femiell, .Tames Hamilton, Esq., 4, Deve- reux-court. Temple Foley, Lord, Grosvenor-square Force, Colonel J'eter, "Washington, L".S. Ford, li., Esq., V^:], Park-street, Gros- venor-square Foreign OtKce Forster, J., Esq., 58, Lincoln's Inn Fields J'ranklin, Lady Freer, W. K., Esq. (ialignani, .M., I'aris (iawler, ('(donel, I'nitud Service Club tiiliraltar Garrison ivihrary Giraiid, U. Hervc, Esij., Furnival's-inn Gladdish, William, Es(i., (iraveseiid (ileiidening, liolieit, llsq., T), l!ritain-st., Port sea (ileiiiiy, — , Esi|., 1;')'^, Strand (iordoii,,I.T., l''.s(i.,Slieiillol' .Mid Lothian, is, Herriol-street, Edinliuigh Graham, Itoliert, Esii. Gray, .John Mdward, Esq., British Museum Greeiiwi(di Hospital, the Otlicers' l.ihrary (ireenwich Society for the Dilfiisioii of Useful Knowledge Grey, It. .f. Moring, Esq., Trinity iiou'-e Grey, 11. W., Esq., M.P., l(i, Carlton-ter. Guild, G. F., I'jsij., Boston, U.S. Guise, W. A'.,Es(i., Ehuore-ct., Gloucester Hale, J. H., Park-rd., Stockwell-couuuon Hallitlay, William, Esq., 14, Donegall-pl., Pelfast Hamilton, Piohert, Esq., Charing Cross Hosjjital Hanrott, P. A., Esq., Queen's-square, P)loomshui-y Harvey, Henry Martin, Esq., Leytonstone. I'lsscx HaiNcy, W. IJrotherton, Esq., Salford, JNlaiuhester Ilawes, Penjamin, Esq., M.P., !), (^leen's sipiare, Westminster Hawkins, Edward, Ksq., Pritish Museum Heath, Edward, l''.s(|., Liverpool Henderson, Dr., li, Curzon-st., IMayfair Heywood, J., Esq., Acrestield. IMauciiester HertlurdLiteraryanilScientiticInstiiution Hohhouse, I'ldward, Es(j., Twickenham Hodgkin, Tliomas, Esij., M.D., ;("), Bed- ford-square Hollond, P., Es(i., M.P., Portland-])hice Holman, Lieutenant, P.N. IPdmes, .James, Ilsq. 4, New Ormond- street, Foundling Holmes, John, Esq., P)ritish Museum Home Oflice Horner, Pev. J. S. H., Wells Park, Somersetshire Hull Suhscription Library Ibbs, Mr. J. C, H.E.I.C.S. Jackson, H. Esf|., St.Jaines's-row, Shefheld Johnston, Alexander Keith, l-'dinlmrgh Jones, J. Winter, ]';sq.,lh-itisli 3Iuseum Jukes, J. P., Esq., ••2H, Jerniyn-street Junior United Service Club, Pall Mall -m^ Scrvici! Club '■>■ l-'miiiviil^-iim ( iravcNtMil ij., 5, Ih'itiiin-st., tminl I'dl" MidLdthian, lulmi^^li , British Mnsonin • OtlicfiV l.iliiiuy tliu DiHu^^iou of [., Trinity Ilnnso , IC), Curlt(.n-ter. 1)11, U.S. reel., Uloucoster tnckwoll -common , 14, Donegiill-i)l., I., Charing Cross Queon's-squiii'f.', ',sq., Leytonstoiuv , ]''.sq., Sulf'ord, 31. r., !», (iueen's r.iitish Museum ivfi'iKiol ;oii-st., Mnytaiv lirld. ^Manchester iiiiiticlnstiiution 1., 'rwickcnliiiiu . ^il.D., ;!•'), Ued- r(irtlainl-])hico IN. New Ormontl- ttish Museum p., Wells Turk, Is. L'j^.vow, Shetheld Ith, KdinhnrKh Utisli ]\[nseum I'vmvn-street lub,' I'ftU ^lall Kiilh, T. llihiin, I',-i|.. I'.a^t India llnii^e Kiiiudi, .1., K^i]., :t!t, l>e\on-^liirt' idacc, Ni'U-l'n.iii K.r-lake. My. T.. Ih'i^tnl Ke\>, Mr. .1. \., II.i;.l.C.S. Laird, .Inlni, Ksf|., Ilirkeniiead Laire, I'r. .F., l',-><|., II. M. Duckyiud, Clialhaiii I.ardiii'i', LeiiiKild .lames, F.s(|., Britisii Mu^eiiiii I.ane, H. l>o\v\fr, M^^., J'irchlii 'd, near 1'irniin;,'haiii l,aili;nii. It. O., Ksq., 'M.l)., -JO, I jqicr Soiithwick-street, Hyde Park -Miiiani l.au, Uilliaiii, l'.s,|.. ln:t. Tircadilly l.eic, ii'r Permanent !,ilir;iry Le Mesiirier, 1{. Ariliur, I'lsq., (.'oi-jjus ('lni>ti Ciille^je, Oxt'iiid Lemon, Sir (,'., Jhut., >LP., -Ifi, Charles- street. BtMkeley-squiire Lenox, .Fames, I',m|., New ^nik T.eve-^c|ne. Peirr, I'.-q., •^'•), ( iuildrnrd-st. Little and ilrouii, Mcssr^., Ihi^Ihii. I'.S. Lof'tu^. William Ki'innit. i!>i|., NeuiMstlr- niMiii Tmic Lo^'iin, .L 1!., I',-q. Londnii liistitulion, I'inshiiry Circus LoiidiPii Lilirary, I'i, St. ,IanieN's-si|iiare Ludlow, .T. 3L, l!>(|., '1'.). ChaiiiTiylane 3Iacketi/it', Cell. Sir .Vlex., llarl., (i.C.lI. I, Circus, P.alh ^lacken/ie, .Tdiiii W., Lsq., I'.dinln v h -Alackenzie, I.'. A., l'.s(i., Hyde i'al■I^-lllal•e M'Leod, ^Nliss, 4, l'(dey-|)lace Macre:;ily, W. ("., l',sr|., Slurliorne Ihjuse, Dc.r-et ^IimImii, Cajil. Frederick, ri.C.S,, ."). N'orth- wii'k-teri'act>, Si. .lnhn's Wooil Maih'as Literary Sociniy INhudstone, N'iscdiuit Major, U. IL, l''.s(i., British Museum Ualcolm, W. Kl]ihiiistone. Ksq., Ihirnfoot Manchester Atli Tl Markhani, Clements, Jlsr].. Gt. Horkesley, Colchester ^larsh, Hon. (ipor;^e I'., Con>taiUino]d(^ .Marsham,l!ohert,l'",sq., Stratton Strawless, Xorwieli ^L'lssie, Captai' T. L., Ti.N., Chester :\reek. Sir .Fai 1 4, SoDH'rsi'i-])! :\Iilman,'l"heVur. Kev. 11. IL. Dean of St. Pauls Millies, 1!. :Mfmck ai. Ksf|.. .ALP., 'Jfi, Pall Afall Mitforil, Admiral Aloiitriou, Commandei', ILll.LCS. ^Nlontriou, W., Lsq., IJoiiihay Mulhr, P., Lsq., Amsterdam Aluiiicli Pioval Lilirar\ Miinioe, .Fumes and Co., lin^tcui, I'.S. Muquardt, — , L>q. Murchi^on. Sir Loderiik Inijiry, I'.U.S. \-c.. Hi, Bel^,'rave-'^quare Muniliy, Hon. H. C, llrookhn, New York .Muria.N. L(.rd,(ireat Stuart St., i',diiilair;.'h .Miiria>, .Icdin, l'.>i\., Alhcmarh- siicct MiiiiMN, William, i^--q., •.!, .loiiii street, l'>irixeliy>(|nare .Minion, (ieorj;c, INq., Maiichf^ter Nehyani, .T. Moore, M.D., Ki, Lee-.oii- street, liuhlin NeKoii, 'I'liniiias Wriu'ht, Ilsq., 'i'-i, (iliai- ce-,ler-i)lace. New-rotid N'ewcastle-u|)on-'ryne Literary and Scl- ( iitilie institute New York .^L•l■^•antile Lilirary Niiiinio, 'I'hdiiias, INq., jii'iiierara Norris, |-',dwiii, l'Ni(., Si'c. A--iatie Society, !l.'). New i)urliiii,'t(in->treet North ShielcL Literary and I'hilosojihical Institution (•rieiital ('lull. Ilanover-si|nare Oswald, .Tn>i']di, INq., '.ill. .M itre-terraco, I'owiiham-riiad. Kiiit^-laiid Oiivrv, p.. Ks(|.. P.S.A..l!>,<>\fi lid terrace, Hyde I'ark I'arkor, .L AV., i'.sq.. West Strand Pasley, Alajiii- lieiicral Sir C. W., K.(.'.!!., P,>, Norfolk Cre-ctiit, HyU- Park i'l'mherton, Mrs. Peimiii'jftoii, .Fdhn, Lsq,, Philailel))hia Peiin>yl\aiiia, lli-torical Sdciity of Pentoii, lleiirv, Jisq., h, Park ->t., (Iros V('iiors([iiiirc Petit, Piev. .F. Louis. th<' I'liland-., Shitrnal Petit, Lieut. -Colonel C. B., il, New S(|iiare, Lincoln's Inn Pdlliiejtton, Viscdiiiit. U. L)oltr>ii-row Porier, (r. AV., Lsq., Pritisii MusiMini Pdrii-r. 'I'hdiiias, {']•<>[., Maiii'lie-,ter PorUMls, .Idhll. Lsq., Maiirhe-ter PdrlsiiKiiith, the linyal Na\al ( dllege Pdiirtales, t'diint .Mlierl, l'>eilin Powis, Tvul of, 4"), Berkeley-s(|uare I'latt, (r. Clayttm, Ls(i., i'liiladelphia I'resL'ott, Bear Admiral H., C.B., Ports- mouth 1 )({., !», Cin'us, Gv .nvich Bliys,T., Esq., Boyal ()rdnance '.Vodlwich 11 n 8 Ticli, ]\Iossrs., Tavist! ick-rnw, Cov.-gnrd. liichiirds, 31 1'., ."(7, Great (^ueen-street Itirliiirdson, Sir .Toliii, M.D., F.K.S., Has- lar, (idsport Iiicliardsdii, lialjdi, Esq., (ireenfield Flail, }Iolyw(dl, Fiiiitsliirc Ki,i,'^'s, (r. \V., Wasliiii^'toii, T'.S. Iiitttn-, Professor Karl, Iltnliii Kdliiiisdi), Lieut. Walter F.,ll.X.,F.ri.G.S., Junior Fiiited Servi(!o Cluh Rose, AVni., I'lsq., Coalport, Sliropshii'e Rnynl Society, Somerset llmxse Pioyal (reoj,'ra])liieal Society, ^Vaterloo-pl. Fiuuiliold, ('. ]•:., Ks(j. Iiuudall, 'i'lionias, Esq., Fast India House RiUlierfurd, Lord, St. Colm.-st., Fdiub. Eye, Artliur ]>., Esq., Banliury Eye, W. B., Esq., Biitisli Museum Sanders, Captain, H.ls.T.C.S. Saunders, 'J'relawney, l']sq.,(i, ChariiiK-cr. Scliouiljui'fJtk, Sir lloliert, St. Doiiiint;o Sedi^'wick, tli(! Eev. Adam, Wooihviudian I'rol'essor, C'amlirid., F.P.S., ;{, New- street, Spring Gardens Trade, Board of 'J'ravellers' Cluh, Un\, Pall :\Ldl 'i'rinity Hiaise, T'ower Hill Tyiiemouth Literary and I'liilosopjiicul institution United Service Institution ^'i(hd, Captain, l>.N. ^'ienna luqierial Library Von Bach,.J(diann Friedrich, Fsq.,P.i'itish Museum Von Sieh(dd, Col. I'll. I"r., Leydeu Waite, Henry, Es(j., (.'hurch-street, Stok(^ Newiiigtoii Walker, H. I'-sfj,, Cheltenham Walker,.!., Es(|.,-i7,Beiiiard-st.PiUssell-sq. Walker, .loshua, Es(|., Jiui., '-i. Park-place, Harrow-road Washingtoi 1, Captain J., E.N. , Wood-street, Wofdwi(di Waters, .F. S., Esq., Baltimore, T'.S. Watts, Thomas, J'lsq., Fh'itish ]\Fiiseum Weir, William, \\s(\., ."id, Great Corain-st. Whateley, William, Es(i., Q.C., i Wright, II., Esq., Chelienham Wyld, James, Esq., ]M.I>., Strand Young, G. F.,F>;sq.,M.P.,Soiitli SeaHoiiso IIOXORAUY LoC'AIi SlOCKirrAltlES. E])iNiu;Kc,ir .\iii. T. ,1. Stkvk.nson, ^t7, I'rinces Street. Gr.Asoow ;\l I!. D. BiivcK. f)\KOIiI) All!. .L FL I'AltKKU. I't.v.MoiTii Li,i:wi;i.i,vxN .Jkwitt, I'Isq. St. Hi;mkr's, Jkusev. .Mu. LKL'KUVitr;. luc MAiiri'^. I'lUNiF-.n. liRKAT i;ri;c.N si'iiKF.r. 1., F.T.C.C. iins, Mons. H., J'aris i'anjiliiin, Higli-st., Uxfonl l'ls(|., ;")(), 'riireailiici'iUc-st. IS., J']sf|., 'J'owii Clerk, FIiill (inis ol', l!l, Ciiv('inlisli s((. ■^(|., MA)., F.Ii.S., n, Ni-w- CriU'deus r 1, l(l(i, IVill :Mall Tower Mill terary ami l'liil(js(i]iiuc;il Institution It.N. 1 Library nil Friedrich, Esq., liritish >\. I'll. Fr., LeyJen •^sq., (,'liureli-street, Stoko ., Clieltcnliani 47, lierimrd-st. linssell-sq. , Ks((., Jun., 'J, Park-place, ptainJ.jE.X.jWiiod-stroet, sq., Baltimore, T'.S. ]'js(i., Thitisli ]\lnseum Esq., ;((), Great (.'oram-st. am, Ksq., (^.C, (i, J'aik- linster ^ev. W., D.D., :\rastcr of te, Cambridge . James, Euiichurch, Isle ., Esq., I'^ast India House 1, I'Jscj., ;{, Wellington-st., l.,Nortliumberland-]ioiise, V. J., 1, Jiaymond's Biiild- nn S., Esq., Hull X., Esq., 7, Poultry mmond, Esq., 4-i, Half ■adiDv I, Ksc]., lOM, New Bond-st; nt Joliu, ll.K.f.C.S., l:i7' reet ., Clieltenliain sq., M.l'., Strand q.,M.P.,Soutli Sea House i'riiices Street,