IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^>.<^t^ 1.0 I.I ULU2A 12.5 US ^ ^■' ■ii I2j2 12.2 III m u 2.0 |MI| L25 iU 11.6 I '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 4% 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WIUTH.N.r. 14SN (716)t72-4S03 ^^ ^\ '^rN CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian institute for Historical IVIicroreproductions / Institiit Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notary Notes techniques et bibliographiques Th< tot The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibiiographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checlced below. D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaied/ Couverture endommag6e Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurte et/ou peliicul6e Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur Coloured inic (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ D Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ ReliA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou da la distortion le long de la marge int^rieure Blank leaves added during restcation may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais. lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 film^es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplAmentaires: L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtrr uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mftthode normaie de fiimage sont indiqu^s ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ D D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagtos Pages restored and/oi Pages restaur6es et/ou pellicul6es Pages discoloured, stained or foxet Pages d6color6es, tachetdes ou piqudes Pages detached/ Pages d^tachtes Showthroughy Transparence Quality of prir Quality indgaie de I'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du materiel suppitfmentaire I — I Pages damaged/ I I Pages restored and/or laminated/ I I Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ I I Pages detached/ r~pir Showthrough/ r^ Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refllmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiailement obscurcles par un feuillet d'errata, una pelure, etc., ont M filmtes A nouveau de ta9on A obtenir la meiileure image possible. Th< poi oft filn Ori be( the sioi oth firs sioi or i Th« sha J\h wh Ma difl ent be[ rigl req me This Item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de rMuction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X / 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here hes been re. to the generosity of: ThomH Fisher Rare Boole Librery, University of Toronto Library -oduced thenks L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grdce d la gAnirosit^ de: Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library, University of Toronto Library The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of th-f original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetA de l'exemplaire fiimd, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover whtn appropriate. AH other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en pepier est imprimde sont film6s en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration. soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires origineux sont film6s en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — »• (meaning "CON- TINUED "), or the symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la derniire image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc.. may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Thowe too lerge to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les csrtes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent 6tre film^s d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour 6tre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est filmd d partir de I'angle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bos. en prenant le nombre d'imeges n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 mm V 1 A ACCOUNT or THK RITER ST. JOHN, WITH ITS TRIBUTARY BITERS AND LAKES. BY EDMUND WARD^ ASSISTANT EMIGRANT AOBHT*^ FREDERICTON, N. a FRIIVTED AT THK SBITTINIXi OmCi; 1841. ^J A ^■ .0 ■'■■ ; i'A, -■■. :f! \ ;^i^ m ■■ / Y I ' X. TO HIS EXCELLBNCT Major-General Sir John Harvey, K. C. B. and K. C. H. Lieut. Governor and Commander in Chief in and over the Pro- vinces of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and their Dependencies, Sic. Sec. &c. May it please Your Excellency, In taking the liberty of dedicating the following pages to Your Excellency, and in soliciting for them Your Excellency 'a approbation ; I feel that I need only state in explanation or ex- cuse, that the undertaking in which I am engaged has origi- nated in a desire to promote the public welfare ; and that in endeavouring to render the natural advantages of this fine Province more generally known and better appreciated, I shall be advancing the best interests of a country, which under Your Excellency's mild and paternal government, and the just and enlightened policy of the present ministers of our Most Gracious Sovereign, is about to assume that rank among tho colonial possessions of Her Majesty, to which the loyalty, de- votion and true British feeling of its inhabitants justly enti- tle it. That Your Excellency may long continue to preside over the councils of New Brunswick, and to infuse into thu minds of all classes of its population, the same liberal and generous sentiments, for which Your Excellency has ever been distin- guished, during a long course of public life and usefulness, is the earnest prayer of Your Excellency's obliged, and very humble servant, EDMUND WARD. Frkdericton, N. B> January, 1841. J THE RIYFR 8T. JOHN, WITH ITS TRIBUTARY RIVERS AND LAKES. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. J At a period when the Queen's Government, in pursuance of a wise and liberal policy, are endeavouring to encourage E- migration to Her Majesty's possessions abroad, and thus ad- ding to the strength and security of the more distant portions of the British empire : it becomes the duty of every well-wish- er of his country and friend of his species, to give to the pub- lic whatever mformation he may possess in relation to the sub- ject; and however limited may be his means, to cast his mite into the general treasury of knowledge : and if possible, aid in directing the stream of immigration to those portions of these colonies, which a settler can occupy with the greatest comfort and improve to the most advantage. The object of Emigration is threefold. — To relieve the Pa- rent State of its superabundant population; — to encrease more rapidly the number of inhabitants in the Colonies, and thus to promote their advancement in wealth and importance; — and thirdly, to provide the means of subsistence for those, who are desirous of quitting the scenes of their earlier years, to secure elsewhere '* a local habitation," and a more comfortable and happier home. With reference to the first of those propositions : so far aa ■HSK h t m' I" 6 the Parent State is coneorned, it matters little what fate awaits the adventurous emigrant, so long as the country of his birth is relieved from the incumbrance of his presence. Still, the philanthropist every where, must feel an interest in the destiny that awaits him; and a paternal government will watch over hia course, aad endeavour to direct his uncertain steps to the ha. ven of happiness and repose. The Colony however, whose propperous condition must mainly depend upon the possession of an intelligent agricultu- ral population, is deeply interested in securing some portion of that industrial wealth, which is continually extending itself to- wards the American continent; and it therefore becomes an object of importance that information should be widely dissem- inated, as to the ability of each of these possessions to contri- bute to the promotion of the general good. And to the Emi- grant himself, it is of vital consequence that he should become acquainted with that colonial possession, which is nearest in proximity to the British Isles, or has the greatest natural ad- vantages, as relates to agricultural and mineral resources. These considerations have induced the author of the follow- ing pages, to turn his attention to the subject; and being well acquainted with the locale of Nova Scotia and New Bruns- wick, and partially with that of Prince Edward Island; he has been induced to publish in pamphlet form, a few general re- marks applicabh to these Colonies, and a brief account of the River St. John, its principal tributary Rivers and Lakes, and the fertile and tranquil country through which they pass. And first, with reference to Nova Scotia. Altho* it possess- es great natural advantages, and has afforded prosperous for- tune to a numerous body of men; who emigrated to that Pro- vince within the last forty years, — and bringing with them that patient and enduring disposition, so well fitted to enable a man to subdue the forest, have secured for themselves compe- tence and wealth : — yet she can bear no comparison with the greater and more numerous advantages, that recommend her und Sister Povince of New Brunswick to the notice of the Emi- grant. Her rivers are few, and when compared with those of this Province, are of trifling- importance and extent; while most of the land that is best adapted for cultivation, is cither occu- pied by actual settlers, or having been granted to favoured in- dividuals, during the early settlement of the country, is thus shut out from present improvement ; and its more fertile parts in the western and northern counties, is owned by a numerous population, whose natural increase must render it next to im- possible, to procure a tract of land, sufficiently extensive for the accommodation of any numerous body of emigrants. By a law passed during the last Session of the Nova Scotia Legisla- tare, a new principle upon which lands are to be granted was established; and I observe none is in future to be sold by the Crown under two shillings and sixpence per acre ; while in Lower Canada, the lowest price at which it can be obtained, is four shillings. In Prince Edward Island, which lies to the eastward of New Brunswick, and is separated by the Straits of Northumberland; although the soil is highly susceptible of cultivation, and yields to the industry of man a corresponding return; yet it is owned by individual proprietors, who demand an exorbitant price of from fifleen to twenty-five shillings an acre for wilderness land, when asked to dispose of it; and who by means of their Agents or Middle men, as they would be termed in Ireland, exact from the miserable tenantry, a large portion of the produce of the soil. During the winter season also, that Island is shut out from the neighboring continent and the rest of the world, by an almost impassible barrier of ice; and can then only be ap- proached with difficulty and danger. But in New Brunswick, its numerous and extensive Rivers, form during the winter season, level and excellent roads, which are marked off and designated by lines of bushes; fixed in the ice by officers whose duty is prescribed by 1 iw; and tho mails for England and Nova Scotia pass to and from Canada twice a week, without suffering any interruption from the se- verity of the season. During the recent outbreak in the Cana- the main ntry thro' ihabitantu u of which, having followod the lumbering business, till it has re- sulted in almost universal ruin — for in no part of the Pro- vince are the pernicious effects of that pursuit more fully and forcibly exemplified — are at present turning their attention to agriculture ; aad are availing' themselves of the natural advan* tages of the country. The principal places of business on the Mirimichi, are Ghat- ham, Douglas acd Newcastle. At the former place, the Messrs. Cunards have a very large steam saw and grist mill> establishment ; and at the second, Messrs. Gilmour Si Rankin carry on an extensive business. The latter is the shire-town of the county, and was materially injured by the great fire of 1825, which swept over that part of the Province; from the ef- fects of which it has never since recovered, altho* as the coun- try above becomes more agricultural, it must from its position* necessarily resume its former importance. Opposite Newcas- tle, Ale^tander Fraser, Esq. has a very compact steam saw- mill establiuhment. Between the Miramichie River and the Restigouche, at the bottom of a deep indent in the Bay Cha- leur is Nipisiguit harbour, at present called Bathurst, where « thriving village has sprung up, fostered as it had been by the enterprise of the Messrs. Cunards, who have within the last twenty years erected extensive establishments in the northern parts of the Province, and may be Considered as the founders of the town of Chatham on the right branch of the Mirimichi River. There is a road leading from Bathurst to Dalhousie, the shire-town of the County of Restigouche, which is seventy miles distant by land ; and at the head of the harbour, the Great and Middle Nipisiguit form a junction; the village of Bathurst being placed on the peninsula thus caused: There is an excellent road, nearly level and in a direct line from Chat- ham to this place, passing through a country chiefly covered* with heath and burnt wood, until you approach to within fif^ teen or twenty miles of Bathurst, when a decided improvement takes place: and the traveller meets with something rescm- b' the fine country lying on its promontory to the right; an >vhich is watered by the Caraquet, Pokamouchs, Tra* cadie, Tabusintac, Bartibog and ether minor rivefs. /4 a l;sl I Mf: The Richibucto, another river on the eastern coast, eihp' ilea into the Straits of Northumberland about thirty miles to the southward of the Mirimichi; and runs in a south west di- rection until it separates into two branches, one of which heads near the Salmon River of Grand Lake, and the other near the head of the New Canaan river, which falls into the Washademoac Lake. There are other minor rivers in that quarter; but to which it is unnecessary to refer at present; as it is my intention to describe that part of the Province in a more ample manner hereafter. Afler crossing the isthmus already alluded to, and ut a short distance from the head of the Bay of Fundy, the Peticodiac Kiver empties into Shepody Bay, having first united with those of the Memremcook. This river, or rather arm of the Bay, for a distance of twenty miles, extends in a north-west direction, when it makes a sudden turn to the southward and westward, and afterwards separates into two branches; one of which heads near Salmon River a branch of the Kennebecasis, and thu other making a short detour to the northward, terminates not far from the head of the Gocagne river, which empties up- on the eastern coast of the Province. The tide of the Bay of Fundy, which at some places near its head, rises fifty or sixty feet, rushes into the Peticodiac and Memremcook, with great velocity; forming a boar, which enters the former river at a considerable elevation. The land in the neighborhood of the Peticodiac, and extending over to the Bay shore, from which it is separated by the Shepody mountains, is of a superior qua- lity, and embraces a fine agricultural country. Here arc the thriving setthments of Hopewell, Plillsborough, Harvey, and New Horton, inhabited mostly by persons from Nova Scotia, Abundance of superior coal has been found in that section of the country, which it is probable will at no distant day be rai- ised and carried to market: and there are also extensive quar- tios of the purest Gypsum or Plaster of Paris. The Memremcook river which intersects the Peticodiac, tiear its junction with the Bay of Fundy, abounds with inter- vale and the most delightful scenery; and upon its lefl bank is the shire-town of Dorchester. It is proposed to connect one a t, eihp- nUes to west di- whicli other nto the in that sent; as ICC in a t a short ticodiac those of ?ay, for rection, 2stward, jf which sis, and rminatcs pties up- j Bay of or sixty th great iver at a id of the m which ior qua- aro tho ey, and i Scotia, ction of ' be rai- e qiiar- icodiac, th inter- bank is icct otic of these rivers with theGulf of St. Lawrence by means of a cJi- nal; the distance from the Bend of Peticodiac to Schediac har- 'jour on the eastern coast, being only fifteen miles, through a country very favourable for such an undertaking; and a sum of money has been voted by tho Legislature of New Brunswick, towards defraying the expence of an exploration ; provided those of Canada and Nova Scotia will join in defraying the expence. From the Peticodiac to the mouth of the St. John, there is no river or harbour of any consequence, with the ex- ception of that of Quaco, a few miles to the eastward of that place; where a light-house has been erected, to warn the ma- riner against approaching its treacherous and fatal Ledges. A short distance to the westward of the harbour of St. John is Manawagonis Bay, which formed originally as Dr. Gesner supposes, one of the outlets of the St. John; before the rocks at the Fal'.s were rent asunder, and the waters of that River were enabled to discharge themselves through the ra- vine, which some convulsion of nature has evidently occasioned; Farther to the westward is Musquash harbour; which is a mile and a half wide and two miles long", into which a minor river of the same name empties itself; the country in this vicinity, exhibiting as is usually the case throughout the Province, am- ple evidence in its reclaimed marshes and alluvial deposit, of a higher level of water, both in the interior and on thu coast. « At the south-west point of the Province, as I haVe already- stated, lies the Island of Grand Mnnaan; and within it and also forniing part of the County of Charlotte, are those of Campo Bcllo and L eer Island, at the entrance of Passamaquoddy Bay; whose western shores form part of the territory of the Uniteii States. At its lower extremity, between Campo Bello and Deer Island, is Moose Island, on which is the small town of Eastport belonging to the American Republic, which the Bri- tish troops held during tho last war between the two countries. At the head of the Bay, the Dijzgedeguash empties itself; and a few miles below is the mouth of the Magaguadavic, where is d romantic village of that name, forming a pleasant retreat for those of the inhabitants of St. John and St. Andrews, who pos- sess the tnstc atid ability to enjoy its beauties. The Falls o! 14 ihe Magaguadavic, if the scenery in its neighborhood posse*' Bed no other charm, would amply repay the admirer of nature, for any expence or inconvenience he might incur in visiting it; and in Europe, this village would be a place of annual an^ crowded resort. The following graphic description of the river which rushes through a narrow passage formed by some ter- rific natural cause, is from the pen of Dr. Gesner, who ekplor- ed that part of the country while making his first geological tour in 183d. i "At the main fall," says the Doctor *' the water descend^ l)y five successive steps, in the distance of five hundred yards, through a chasm averaging about thirty feet wide and a hun- dred feet deep. — ^Through this narrow gorge the whola con- tents of the river are poured out with a fury that defies descrip- tion. The industry and ingenuity of man have considerably modified the appearance of this remarkable spot. It still how- ever remains a most extraordinary hydraulic spectacle, and af-> fords a power for turning machinery beyond computation. Having swept slowly along the valley above, the water is ac-* Cumulated at the bridge over the top of the falls; it is then thrown by its own weight into the deep and narrow opening below, where spouting from cliff to clififand twisting its foam- ing column to correspond with the rude windings of the pas- sage, it falls in a torrent of froth into the tide below ; or pas- sing beneath the mills, its fury seems abated as it mingles with the dense spray floating above." ' This river extends about seventy miles into the interior, and has its rise in the Magaguadavic Lakes, in the vicinity of the Pokeoick, a small river that empties into the St. John about thirty six miles above Fredericton. > To the right of the mouth of the Diggedeguash river is a peninsula, upon which stands the neat little town of St. An- drews; at one time'a place of considerable commercial import* ance, and at present the shire-town of the county; to the west- ward of which, an arm of the Bay extends in a north-west di- rection till it meets the Schoodik River, decided by the British Gommifsioners in 1798 to be the St. Croix intended by the \ 15 treaty of 1783; when the independence of the United Statei was ocknowledged by Great Britain. This river runs in a north westerly direction, till it terminates in a series of Lakes, the most remote of which is only a sh ort distance from the High- lands designated in that treaty, and near one of the branches of the Penobsoot, with which it is connected by a portage of no great extent. On the western side of the Schoodik are the Ame- rican villages of Calais and Baring; and on the north-west con- nected with the other side by bridges, are the flourishing villa- ges of St. Stephen's and Mill-town and other rural settlements, chiefly inhabited like the other parts of Charlotte County, and as is the case generally throughout the Province, by the des- cendants of some of those devoted men, who adhered to the British Crown during^ the revolt of those Colonies that now form the United States of America. From the head of Oak Bay, situated near the junction of the Schoodik with Passama- quoddy Bay, a new road has been made to Fredericton, and another is being opened to the mouth of Eel River and thence to Woodstock; both of which pass through a fine tract of country of about seventy miles in extent, that is fast becoming settled; and which I shall probably more minutely describe, in a subsequent part of this work. ..vin,. Steam-boats ply regularly twice a week during the summer months, between St. John, St. Stephen's and St. Andrews, cal- ling at Calais, and performing the voyage in one day ; the dis- tance being about eighty miles. The accommodation on board these vessels is good, and the fare moderate; being twenty shillifigs currency, exclu^sive of meals. There is also a coach running between St. John and St. Andrews, a distance of a- bout sixty miles, and which goes or returns every alternate week-day ; the fare of which is the same as on board the boats, and the accommodation? on the road is all that a traveller can desire. It may be as well to mention here, that two lines of sta- ges run daily between St. John and Dorchester a distance of 12Q miles; which is performed in eighteen hours, and the fare through is thirty shillings; and another has just been started on the new road between Fredericton and St. Andrews, the proprietor of which proposes running it twice a week, to go ihro' in one day, the distance being about seventy milei^ IG I shall not here describe more minutely this portion of the Province; my chief object being to call the attention of the in- habitants of Great Britain and Nova Scotia to the natural nd. vantages of the St. John, its tributary Rivers, and the land in their immediate vicinity ; reserving a more particular account of other parts of New Brunswick, as I have already intimated, for a subsequent publication during the present or ensuing year. CHAPTER III. I HAVE already remarked, that the appearance of the shores on the St. John at its gorge, has little to recommend it to the agriculturist or traveller. Immense masses of lime stone or coarse marble rock, form a bold and precipitous boundary, on either side of a narrow passage, at a short distance above In- dian Town. Below this, the river expands; and again con- tracting, passes through what are termed the Falls; when it turns suddenly to the lefl, and discharges its waters into tho harbour of St John, causing numerous eddies and whirlpools, which formerly rendered the ferry from Carleton on the oppo- site side of the city, one of danger and annoyance. About four years since, it was attempted to build a bridge over the Ri- ver at a short distance below the Falls. And to enable wood- boats and other small craft to pass under, piers were erected of considerable height, and a truss-bridge was intended to be thrown across. The company succeeded in passing chains from the abutments, upon which to erect a scaffolding. But tho support thus prepared, was insufficient to sustain the accu'-'ulating weight; and it suddenly gave way, precipitating a numbei} of workmen into the waters beneath: several of whom lost their lives on that melancholy occasion. Since that period, the attempt has been abandoned; and the Corporation N ^ on 17 of St. John have rt present a steamboat, which ctosses the harbour frequently during the day ; amply compensating that Body for its outlay of capital, and afibrding the necessary ac- commodation to the public. i3 4.5 -J ;i ii...ii A A'i t4i;;.T;ia " The Falls" are a great natural curiosity, firomthe circum- stance of the water descending in opposite directions at ebb and flood tide; and being level at about half-tide. This a- nomaly is caused by the waters of the Bay of Fundy, which entering the harbour of St. John, rise at hign water above tho level of the River, and consequently descend through the Falls and pass inwards, until checked by the accumulating waters of the River, and the retreat of those of the Bay; when a similiar discharge of water takes place outwards, and the descent is then in that direction. During still-water at a- bout half tide, either upon the ebb or flow, steam-boats or ri- ver crafl, piloted by persons who are acquainted with the place, pass up or down in comparative security. ?- ii ^v^ i v^^ ^ , Although this passage is the only outlet at present for the St. John; it is evident that it has been formed by some convulsion of nature, similiar to that— -or probably the same, — which rent asunder the channel of the Magaguadavic, and forced open the passage of Digby Gut, directly opposite the harbour of St. John on the Nova Scotia side of the Bay of Fundy: and thus drained off the body of water, that evidently covered the Aylesford Plains and Carriboo Bog, over which the post-road at present passes between Annapolis and Halifax. As has been already observed, one branch of the St. John probably passed to the right, and discharged itself into the Manawagonis Bay, near the harbour of that name; while the other pursued its course to the lefl, and flowed over what is called the Marsh, — an extensive tract of alluvial deposit, that lies in the rear of the city, and extends to the waters of the Bay ofFundy. Afler passing the abrupt opening near Indian-town, the ri- ver suddenly widens above, and forms what is termed Grand Bay, that extends about twenty miles in a north-west direction, where it meets the waters of the Kennebeckasis and Hammond Rivers; the latter of which empties from the eastward, and the G le fbfmor passing through Norton and Susseic Vale, terminates in Salmon River, which rises in the vicinity of the head-waters of the Peticodiac, or rather the Annagance river, which emp. ties into it. A small stream called Trout River flows into the Kennebeckasis at its junction with Salmon River. About twen- ty miles from Hampton Ferry, and at the entrance of Sussex Vale, is what is called Smith's Creek, which runs to the north- ward, and may be said to be one of the branches at the head of the Kennebeckasis: Salmon River forming the other. This Creek penetrates a most fertile tract of country, where are nu- merous and thriving settlements, and much agricultural w^ealth. About the head of the Creek, and between it and Butternut Ridge, which lies between the sources of the Kennebeckasis and New Canaan River, there is a large body of ungranted land fit for settlement, embracing probably 20,000 acres; and farther on between North River, one of the branches of the Feticodiac and New Canaan River, there is much vacant land of a good description for settlement. On *he southern side of the country also, between the head of Dutch valley and the head-waters of the south-east branches of the Kennebeckasis, the land is also of a good quality, and ungranted to a consid- erable extent. t Sussex V ale, through which the Kennebeckasis passes, is a most delightful valley, and has been evidently the bed of some former lake or inland sea. The soil is chiefly a rich alluvial deposit; and the scenery, when the traveller gains any eleva- ted place, is highly picturesque and romantic. There is a nu- merous population here, and a clergyman of the Episcopal church resides and ofliciates in the Vale. There is a dissent- ing meeting-house also in this part of the country, and other places of worship are scattered along the road between Hamp- ton Ferry, where another clergyman of the Established church resides, and the Bend of Feticodiac, a distance of about seventy miles; on which route there is a resident Wesleyan and Bap- tist minister. The Fost Road from St. John to Halifax, via Dorchester, passes through this Vale. Altho' the land in this direction, is generally speaking owned by individuals, yet much of it is in a wilderness state, or is again growing up with bushes ; and in some instances has fallen into neglect, owing tg- 19 to the erection of saw-mills, which have called away the atten- tion of the farmer from the more profitable and certain pursuit of agriculture. The improvements in this part of the country however, are encreasing rapidly, the soil being generally fa- vourable for it. There is a road from Sussex Vale, which passes near the Smith's Creek settlements, and extends to those of Studholm I«Iill-stream , which empties into the Kenne- beckasis about five miles below the mouth of Smith's Creek » and is navigable for a short distance by boats and canoes. Hero there is a dissenting meeting-house and a mill establish- ment. This road passes through a tract of excellent land, which has been granted to individuals, who are fast clearing and improving it. From the Mill-stream settlement, a road extends to the New Canaan river, which it strikes near where a new road from Fredericton to the Bend of Feticodiac is about being opened, which will intersect that passing through Dor- chester to Halifax in Nova Scotia; at which place the line of mail steamers arrive from England every fortnight. -, /, ,.:..« . It would occupy too much time and be foreign to the subject of this publication, were I to enter more minutely into a des- cription of Sussex Vale and the adjacent country; particularly as, owing to the land being generally taken up, it does not of- fer that advantageous settlement for emigrants, which is to be found in places on the upper part of the St. John, and near the iiivers and Lakes in its vicinity. Just above where the Kenebeckasis opens into the St. John, is Milkish Creek, on which there is an extensive and thriving settlement. When I visited diflerent parts ef the Province in 1837, addressing meetings in support of the Total Abstinence cause, it was my intention to have gone to this place; but ow- ing to the di(Hcu1ty of ascertaining its locality, I was unable to find out exactly were it lay ; and the consequence was I completed my tour, very much to the annoyance of the friends of the cause in that quarter, without calling there. I mention this circumstance, to show the necessity of some such at- tempt as the present; for I was within a short distance of the settlement twice during the summer, when I held meetings at Kingston and at Mr. Justus Wetmore's on the Kenncbeckasis. 50 Just above Grand Baj on the loft as you ascend, and ten miles from Indian town , is what is termed the Nerepis River or Creek, which extends for a distance of ten or twelve miles over a fine bed of intervale land. It then passes through a deep gorge in the Nerepis mountain, wending its way at times • ound the base of almost perpendicular cliffs, which rise on each side of the valley for a considerable distance. The ap- pearance of the country in this direction is highly picturesque, while the wildness of its scenery m occasionally relieved by patches of cultivated land, and fine farms appearing at a dis- tance on the opposite side of the valley. The direct post road from Fredericton to St. John, passes along the northern side of the Nerepis valley ; but a preferable line of road might be ibtind in its rear, leaving the present road about six miles from Mathers* ; passing near Hartt's mills on the north- vest branch of the Oromocto, and so on through the R usage- sis settlement to Fredericton. On this line of road i under- stand there are several settlers, who have made a sort of path, by which Jhey can reach the road that crosses the Oromocto just alluded to. And it will be seen that it is proposed to open another road, following the shore-road as far as Jones', and passing through a settlement which it is intended to establish between Nerepis and the River above Gagetown ; by whic^i the route to Fredericton must be materially shortened , and will pass through a fine tract of country. .-,.,.- ^ The land through which the Nerepis road passes, would not aeem to offer much inducement to settlers; yet a number of industrious emigrants and others, have taken up land there; and commencing with humble means, have succeeded in the short space of five or six years, in placing themselves in com- fortable circumstances; and large quantities of agricultural produce are conveyed to the St. John market by land, a dis- tance of probably forty miles. Of the upper part of this dis- trict, I shall have occasion to speak, when describing the coun- try above Gagetown and in its vicinity. " ' From the Nerepis Creek for about fifteen miles, the St. John which is here called the Long Reach, runs in a north-east di- rection entering Belle Isle Bay twenty-seven miles from In- 2\ diantown, and is upon an average a mile wide, resembling a Lake rather than a Bay or branch of a river. It is navigable for large vessels throughout, and terminates in a small river that also extends in a north-eastern direction. One of its branches descends from the mountain near Bull Moose hill, tho other stretches along the valley occupied by the Studholm Mill stream, already alluded to. The soil in the valley, I under- stand from Dr. Gesner, is a dark red loara and very fertile; and the entire range of country between Belle Isle Bay and the New Canaan river, is admirably adapted for agriculture. The highlands between this Bay and the Washademoac Lake, are also capable of cultivation, bearing lofly forests of beech, birch and maple. There are several settlements, chiefly of Irish emigrants, between the Belle Isle and Washademoac, who went there very poor about five or e\x years since, and who are now in a flourishing condition. These settlements lay back from the St. John, but the roads in their neighbourhood are greatly improving. The present post road turns ofl* near the head of this Bay, leaving Kingston the shire-town of the county of King's on its right, and intersects the post road from St. John to Dorchester about ten miles from Hampton Ferry, at a place called the Finger Board. There are two roads leading from B«lle Isle Bay to the Washademoak ; tbat nearest the St. John is the most retired and picturesque, although it is most settled; and aflbrds a very romantic and delightful ride. At the raouth of Belle Isle Bay, tho St. John suddenly re- sumes its course to tlie northward and westward, for a distance of about ten miles, when you reach the mouth of the Washade- moac ; having previously passed two low Islands, called Spoon and Long Island, which are formed of alluvial deposit, and arn covered with water early in the Spring; by which means as is the case with all the intervale on the River, they are sulHcienily manured, and produce an excellent crop of grass. Opposite the mouth of the Washademoac, are the Big and Little Mus- quash Islands. This part of the River has evidently been at one time a large Lake, that has been narrowed on each side by the masses of alluvial deposit, which form its islands and ex- tensive intervales. ' • ■ m - ; >' - ' » 2^ On either sidle of the Long Reach, between the Nerepid Creek and Belle Isle Bay, the land is elevated and picturesque ; and generally speaking is of a fertile quality And on both sides the River, there are wealthy farmers, several of whom commenced life with very limited means; but who have ren- dered themselves independent by the cultivation of the soil. The intervale, as I have already intimated, yielding them an adequate supply of hay, and the upland producing a corres- ponding return for the labors of the husbandman, and heavy crops of grain to reward his toil. There is a fine stieam on the west side of the St. John, call- ed Little River, with much intervale, extending two or three miles, and surrounded with fine farms ; and on which there is a carding and grist mill. This stream has its source in a lake about a mile and a half from the St. John, in the neighbour- hood of which an excellent granite quarry is worked. Two other streams empty into Little River about a mile above, which also abound in intervale. There is no ungratted land near the River; but in the rear of the front lots, there is a tract, containing eight or ten thoasund acres of excellent land, where is the New Jerusalem settlement, which is owned by a wealthy individual in St. John. There is a Baptist meeting- house near the head of the Reach, and an Episcopal Church at Oak Point, about four miles below. At Little River there is also a Baptist meeting house, and there ar*) seven or eight schools in the Parish. About five miles above Little River is the Ocnabog Lake, into which flows a stream of the same name; that extends fourteen or fifteen miles, crossing the road leading from Gagetown to the Nerepis. Its course is thence nearly west through a natural meadow, where there are indi- cations of coal; until it approaches Tante Wante, where it terminates. Just opposite the Ocnabog, on the eastern side of the St. John and eleven miles from the mouth of Belle Isle Bay, is the Washademoac Lake, which like the latter, may be considered an arm of that River; the tide extending upwards of twenty miles into the Lake, where it meets the New Canaan River* which I have already described as flowing northward and east- 2S wardly beyond the Butternut Ridge, and whose head v'aters are at no great distance from the Poticodiac River.— There is a very extensive and old settlement, called New Ca- naan, on each side of the river of that name, through which the post road from Frederioton to Halifax, as I have already stated, will shortly pass. From the upper part of this ^tended village, a road crosses to Butternut Ridge, which is about six miles from the post road between St. John and Dorchester, leading to Nova Scotia. The road from Studholm's Mill stream, also before spoken of, is a continuation of one trom St. John; and at very little expence may be completed so as to intersect the New Canaan River, near the new road at present forming from Frederioton; and will become an important line of communi- cation, when the latter is completed, between St. John and the capital of the Province. . •. " „ > v? f.j The mouth of Washadomoac Lake is forty miles from St. John and three below Gagetown, the shire-town of the County of Queen's, in which it is situated. This Lake risea in a north-east c'irection; and in some places is three-quarters ofa mile wide. The front lots are generally settled on both sides; there is however much ungranted land in the rear. The intervale here is not to any extent, but the highlands are gen- erally ''a good quality, and are well adapted for agricultural purposes, producing hay, grain and vegetables in abundance. The present great road from Frederioton to St. John, on the eastern side of the River, crosses the Lake at Watson's ferry, about eight or nine miles from its mouth, extending to Belle Isle Bay ; but there is another opening, that will probably be the main road, and which crosses about two miles farther inland. Here are two parishes; in one of which are three meeting- houses or chapels, two of which belong to the Calvanistic and the other, to the Free-will Baptists; and there are nine school- houses; in most of which schools are taught. — In the other, there is one small house for public worship and a number of schools. On the western side of the Lake, there are several back settlements, called the Shannon, Henderson, Scotch, Waterloo, Salmon Creek, English and McFarlane lettle- 24 ments, where the land is good, and the inhabitants are doing well. There is a stream called Salmon Creek, that empties into the Lake, and about five miles from its head, the Long Creek empties into it; which is navigable for small boats and caaoes during the driest time, a distance of two miles; and on both these streams there are grist and saw-mills. There is also a large tract of intervale on the Creek, but which is pri- vate property. The River that is the source of the Lake, is navigable for ^ ;noes probably fifty miles from the head of the Lake, and small boats at certain seasons, can proceed about twenty miles from that point. All these streams, as well as the Lake, abound with gaspereau, shad, bass and salmon, which visit them during the months of April, May and June; but sal- mon and bass, although not in great quantities, are taken again in September. Trout and other small pan fish remain all the year. There are large tracts of crown lands in the rear, on both sides of the Washademoac Lake; and particularly between its head and the New Canaan settlement, where there are but few inhabitants, and where most of the land is ungranted, even to the margin of the River; which is generally speaking a rapid stream of about eight or ten roods wide. This land is well adapted for cultivation, and in many places is covered with a dense forest of pine, spruce and birch, with many vaijable sites for mills. Between the New Canaan and North, river, a branch of the Peticodiac, there is much ungranted land of a good qua- lity, and a very desirable site foi settlement, owing to it!? con- tiguity to the main Peticodiae River, from whence produce may be shipped with faciiitv to the market at St. John; and for which there probably will be a considerable demand nearer at hand, when the extensive coal measures on that river and in its vicinity come to be worked* The New Canaan falls rapidly down to the Washademoac I Lake, through which it centines its course, making the distance from its source to its junetion with the St. John, about seventy ' miles; fifty of which, as has already been stated, arc naviga- ble for boats and canoes. There are on the banks of this rivsr, numerous anil extensive tracts of int<:;vttle; and it is a well iVi J8t settled country, having been peopled during the last forty years at least. The soil on the upland is highly fertile, and there are natural meadows, that afford abundance of pasture. There is a Baptist meeting-house in the settlement; but I un- derstand it has BO stated ministry, There is also a place of worship at Long Creek. Shad and salmon are caught as far up as the New Canaan settlement; and several streams empty into the river, sufficiently large to float down timber. In fact the natural advantages of this section &f the country are great, on both sides of the St. John, abounding* as it does with tim- ber, building stone, coal and other minerals; rendering it a desirable location for emigrants, and requiring nothing but the industry of man to place the settler in comfortable circumstan- ces, and to develop its valuable resources. . CHAPTER IV. Five or six miles above the mouth of the Washademoac and on the same side of the River, is the entrance to the Jemseg, a sort of natural canal, about three miles in extent, which connects the St. John with Grand / ^' •■ ■ i.t..-j' • '> . „»fi » ,r ..». i Eight miles above the Ocnabog is Gagetown Creek, which runs up above five milcs, where it divides, and enters Hartt's and Coy's Lakes; at the head of the former of which, there is a grist mill and carding machine, aad the latter receives the waters of Sucker Brook, that emanate from Tante Wante, at the head of the Great and Small Swan Creeks, which enter the River about eight miles above Gagetown. The stream in these creeks is rapid, and the water rarely freezes to any depth. In their vicinity it is stated there is the greatest quantity of red and white pine timber, that has yet been found on the western side of the River. Farther up is Burpy's mill stream, which also has its rise near Tante Wante. At a short distance from the mouth of the Creek is Gagetown^ the shire-town of the county of Queen's; opposite which the steamers that pass daily between St. John and Fredericton, land their passengers. There is at this place an episcopal church, the court house and jail, and a grammar and two pa- rish schools. A road from'the mouth of the Nerepis Creek on the river side, passes through Gagetown, and so on by the River to the mouth of the Oromocto; a distance of about twen- ty miles. The post road which has been before alluded to, and which is called the Nerepis Road, runs in the rear; and a post- man meets the mails to and from St. John, at a place called the half-way or government house, about twenty miles back of Gagetown. It is proposed to connect the head of the Creek with the St. John, by means of a short canal not exceeding* half a mile in length; and the Legislature have voted a sum of money towards opening it. Were this effected, not only would there be a saving of distance in navigating the River, but steamboats could call at Gagetown; and, the settlers on the Nerepis and in the neighbourhood of the village, would possess greater facilities in procuring a market for their sur- plus produce; which they could either dispose of at Gagetown, or ship in the steamers to Fredericton or St. John. 01 A ^ery extensive tract of valuable land lies between G?igc-' town and Nerepis, about half-way between Nerepis Great Road and the River St. John, which comprises several thous- and acres; and were a proper line of road surveyed, and lots numbered on both sides in squares o*- hamlets, where settlers could make their selection, it is probable every lot would be applied for in a short time. Persons who have explored this tract of country, have made the most favourable report of its advantages; they represent the land to be of the very first quality, well timbered, with rock maple, black birch, elm and oak, of as large size as that on the intervale on the margin of the River. It is also very free from stone, and well adapted for agricultural purposes, with excellent mill sites. This tract is seven or eight miles from Gagetown; and efforts are making to establish a settlement there. For that purpose, a Surveyor has been directed to explore it, and to lay off one hundred 100-acre lots; and it is proposed to open a road from Swan Greek to the Settlement; by which produce may be conveyed to St. John Of Fredericton by means of the steamboats, that daily pass near the mouth of the Creek. As I have already stated it is in contemplation also to extend a road which leaves the River below the head of the Reach at Mr. Jones', and pas- ses through the New Jerusalem settlement, to Geary-town a. bout five miles from the mouth of the Oromocto; crossing the road to Swan Creek; and making a more direct line of com- munication between St. John and Fredericton. A more desi- rable location for settlers therefore cannot well be found in Ihe lower section of the Province, being contiguous to the River, and at no great distance from a steady market. It will also have the additional advantage of being in the vicinity of two o- ther settlements, that are quite convenient to the Oromocto, namely the Shirley and Gordon settlements; where I believe good land may also be found. The land alluded to as about to be laid off, will I repeat constitute a most eligible place for set- tlement; as besides the excellent quality of the land, the growth of wood is large and very open ; and it therefore may be rendered fit for cultivation, in a short time. From Gagetown Creek to the mouth of the Oromocto, the 32 land is elevated at a short distance from the margin of the ri- ver, and is well settled. Eleven miles above Gagetown there is an island called Manger's Island about two miles in length, formed of alluvial deposit, and subject to inundation during the floods of spring; as is all the country forming the eastern bank of the River, from Jemseg to Maugerville about eight or ten miles below Fredericton; which portion of the country including the Maquapit and French Lake I shall now briefly describe. From the mouth of the Jemseg, the St. John proceeds in a northwesterly, or rather a more westerly course, till it reaches a Bay situated three miles below Fredericton. The land on the margin of the River from, the Jemseg through Canning, Sheffield, and the lower part of Maugerville, and for about two miles back, is as I have just stated, overflowed during the spring or early part of the summer; and the farmers find it ne" cessary to wait till the waters have passed off, which occupies sometimes a fortnight, before they can plough or commit their seed to the ground . The same remark will apply to the lower beds of intervale every where on the River; and would be a decided disadvantage in a country where ploughing in autumn and the planting of grain early in the spring, is necessary to prevent it from being injured by the early frosts; were it not that the alluvial deposit, which derives fresh fertility from every successive inundation, brings the crop to maturity much more rapidly on the intervale than on the highlands. Immediately after leaving the Jemseg, by keeping the River road, you arrive at an extended village called Canning; in the rear of which are extensive meadows and a Lake called Back Lake; the distance from the St. John to the shore of this Lake is scarcely half a mile, and presents the shortest way by which the Grand Lake can be reached. The next settlement or parish, is Sheffield; which also extends on the margin of the River, probably a distance of eight or ten miles. This may be called the garden of the Province; and as respects the neatness of the houses and the evident comfort of its inhabi- tants, is not to be equalled, except between Hampton Ferry and the Finger Board, in the parish of Noiton. Above Shef- mm im 33 field is Maugcrville; the part of which that is nearest Freder- icton becoming more elevated within about five or six miles o^ that place, and possessing a less productive soil. The entire front however, from the mouth of the Jemseg below Canning to the centre of Maugcrville, is one continued bed of alluvial deposit; and some idea may be formed of the mass that has been accumulated from the circumstance, that during the last summer, while some persons were employed digging a well at M'Lean's, nearly opposite the mouth of the Oromocto, a log was discovered at a depth of twenty feet from the surface, in a perfect state of preservation. In the rear of this tract of coun. try, which presents a succession of farms fronting on the Iliver with houses situated at a short distance from each other, the land is low and swampy until you reach the highlands, about two miles back; and is a continuation of the natural meadows, extending from below Canning or Waterborough, as it is some- times called. Property in this section of the country is very valuable, frequently selling for thirty pounds an acre near the River. The lots however extend a considerable distance in the rear, where it is of less value. Situated immediately back of Sheffield, and about two miles from the River, lies French Lake, which is con- nected by means of a natural canal called the Thorough- fare with Maquapit and Grand Lake; and another called Lo- der's Creek, which owing to its winding course is three miles in lcn;:i^th, connects it with the St. John at the lower part of Sheffield, and about twenty^two miles below Fredericton: af- fording an excellent channel for conveying produce to that market in small boats, which may pass thro' the Creek at all seasons of the year, when not interrupted by frost. French and Maquapit Lakes both extend in the same di- rection as the St. John River, as is also the case with the Portobello, a stream which empties into French Lake from the westward, rising back of Maugerville, and passing in the rear of the swampy land in the upper part of Sheffield. French Lake extends in a northerly direction till it meets Little River, where there is a large settlement, consisting of about twenty five families. In the rear of this settlement there i« good up- land, sufficient to accommodate tliiily families more, belohg*- ing to the Crown. In this settlement are a large mill-establish- ment, a meeting-house and school-house. From the St. John River thro' Loder's Creek, the distance to the Little River settlement is ten miles, and thirteen to the mills. About six miles above this establishment, there is excellent land suf- ficient for twenty good farms. Thence up to a brook called Bear Brook, that empties into Little River, is a good tract of land, large enough for fifteen other farms. Then running up to East Brook, about six miles farther, is a large tract of land of a very good quality, probably that which has been already mentioned as lying between the head of Little River and New- castle. Except at certain seasons when the water is high, Lit- tle River is not navigable above the mills. As is the case in all these lakes, fish are abundant ; among which are gasper- cau, bass, and a variety of small fish. It will be perceived that in the neigbourhood of Little River, there is sufficient good land for settlement, lying in separate tracts, within a short dis- tance of each other, and not far from the St. John; and with which, besides the communication with Loder's Creek, it is connected by a very good road, that comes out near Brown ^ M 'Keen's, twenty miles below Fredericton. The Maquapit Lake lies between French and Grand Lakes, at a distance of two miles from the main River, having on its southern side an island of two miles long, and from eight to a a hundred rods wide, composed of intervale; and which was formerly connected with the highland, until nn artificiul pas- sage was made, that connects the French and Maquapit Lakes together at this point; forming a second — or as it is termed, a blind Thoroughfare. The north side of the Lake is well set- tled; but the lots on the lower part of Grand Luke, as high as Mr. Robertson's farm, running thro' to the Maquapit from the eastward, has prevented settlement in that direction. Above that as far as the Key-hole below Earlo's Point, over to Den- ton's Point on the Maquapit, there are two tiers of farms — those in the rear fronting on the latter, which are principally settled to the head of the Lake, a distance probably of two miles. The Maquapit lies in the same direction as Grand •Lake— from north-east to south-west. 33 There are from twenty- five to thirty farms on this Lake, on? some of which arg two or three families; and in a stream which falls into an arm of it called Little Kiver, there arc trout of an excellent flavour. During the past year, the inhabitanti* of the Maquapit and French Lakes, have subscribed a sum for the erection of a Wesleyan chapel near Oak Point, between the Lakes. There are two schools kept at the latter, and one at the former. The soil is inferior to that near French Lake, but there is abundance of indurated mar), which on exposure to the air becomes an excellent manure. Mr. Simmonds in draininof a swamp on his farm, during the summer when the last great fire occurred, and the season was unusually dry^ found about three feet below the surface a bed of white marl^ of a highly fertilizing quality. And doubtless other pla- ces in the vicinity of the Maquapit, abound with this invalua- ble substance. The following description has been handed u» by a friend, since writing the above, who resided for some time on the Maquapit; and as it contains some additional particu- lars told in a pleasing manner, we here insert it. ' ' Maquapit Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, lying in a north-east and south-west direction; it is about five miles in length when the water is low in the summer, and its greatest breadth is three miles; but its* average breadth not more than two. In the spring of the year, it overflows its boundary, and extends to the west, connecting itself with the French lake, one mile distant. It flows also south, inundating the low and extensive marshes ; associating and mixing its waters with those of Grand Lake. Those three lakes, thus annually and oflen semi-annually united, form apparently one extensive and in- teresting sheet of water. Maquapit though not deep, is navi- gable for wood-boats of the largest dimensions, except at the mouth of the principal Thoroughfare, which connects it with Grand Lake. In the months of May and June, the settlers often employ themselves, in taking flsh called gaspereaux, that abound there in that season, with shad and bass, which greatly encouraged the settling of the place. " It receives on the south the wators of the French L-\'- •^, 36 through the Thoroughfare, or connecting channel, which winds and flows darkly and sullenly through about three miles of low intervale, thickly studded with large birch, maple, and elm trees; whose luxuriant and spreading branches, cast a gloom of pleasing solitude over the unruffled bosom of the noiseless stream. The shores of this beautiful lake, have a- bounded with white oak, whose quaiity cannot be excelled, neither equalled by any in the western world. But this invalu- able wood has been profusely cut down, for the most trifling purposes; so that it is now nearly all destroyed. The land on the northwest side of the lake is not of superior quality, being low and inclined to wet, growing principally spruce and hem- lock, thinly interspersed with birch and beach. It requires much labour and manure to enable it to produce plentifully. On the east the soil is light, and produces sparingly, growip^ Bofl wood, white birch and poplar." But to return to the River. There is a Baptist meeting-houso at Canning, with no resident minister; at Shcftield there is a Wesleyan chapel, and a meeting-house belonging to the Secession Church of Scotland; and ministers of both these de- nominations reside there. At Maugerville there is also an Episcopal church and resident clergyman, and a Baptist meet- ing-house, but no settled minister of that denomination. The shore of the River is planted with low trees and bushes, to prevent it from being washed away by the floods of spring, when the waters of the St. John rise to the height of at least fideen feet. The bank of the River at Maugerville is probably twenty feet above the level of the river, when at its ordinary height during summer. It will be recollected that the log found at that place last year, was at the same depth from the surface of the bank; and it may be presumed was formerly left there, by the retiring waters after a periodical fall, the subsequent deposits having buried \t; but with which the pre- sent yearly accumulations of soil can bear no comparison. CHAPTER VI. Twelve miles below Fredericton, and fourteen above Swan Creek, the Oromocto River flows into the St. John; the coun- try on the River between those places being well settled on both sides of its banks. The Oromocto is the only river of any size, with the exception of the Kennebeckasis, that falls di- rectly into the St. John below Fredericton. It has its rise in two lakes about twenty miles apart, called north and south Branch Lakes; the streams from which form a junction eigh- teen or twenty miles from the village at the mouth of the Oro- mocto. There are several minor streams, some of which fall into these branches and others into the main stream. On the South Branch are Shin and Back Creeks; on the Noith are Hardwood, Yoho and Lyon Streams; and on the main Oro- mocto, are the Brockwell stream, the Rusagonis and Rinny Creek. The soil on the banks of the Oromoclo below the junction of the Branch streams, generally speaking is totally up^* for settlement, as a great part is low and marshy, and i^i iuiia overflowed: but there are e> rensive wild meadows tht To.! an excellent substitute for 1 .glish grass, in case of r. 'm' <,i^ of other fodder. On the South Branch tbera is a coiisi i b'^ quantity of good land, both occupied and unoccupied; v. -Ij.i runs through a beautiful and level tract called " The Valley": which is equal in richness of soil and productiveness to the best part of ShefTield. Back Creek, a tributary stream of the South Branch, also runs through a fine tract of good hard-wood land where is a flourishing settlement, called the Patterson settle- ment, with places for public worship and parish-schools. On Shin Creek, which also falls into the South Branch, about four miles above Scoullar's mills, I understand there is land flt for settlement, and which is still in a wilderness state. There is also good land on the streams, falling into the North Branch; but the country in their neighborhood, has usually been resor- ted to for purposes of lumbering; and of course no settle- ments have been formed where that is the case. Around the North Branch Lake however thero is already a good settlement ; $3 the land is excellent for tillage; and a road has been opened communicating with Fredericton, This is the new road to St. Andrews, which is nearly completed, and passes within tw^ miles of the Lake, and n little farther from the Magaguadavic. This Lake is about ten miles in length and four in breadth, and r')as in a direction nearly north and south, and parallel with the road. It is distant about twenty miles from Hartt's mills, and is settled for half that distance, probably as far as the land is good; and it is thirty-two miles from Frederic- ton by the new road. About seven miles from the mouth of the Oromocto on Brockwell stream, there is some good land, that might be cul- tivated to advantage; a road I believe has been opened through it during the last season, and two or three families have settled there. On the Rusagonis there are some fine farms; the bet- ter description of land however has been granted. Of the set- tlements in that di action I shall have occasion to speak here- after. The Oromocto is navigable for sloops and wood-boats a dis- tance of twenty miles, — for canoes upwards of thirty; and ex- cept diiring the droughts of summer, thr Creeks already men- tioned, may be navigated by canoes, Salmon, shad, bass and gaspereau rre feui.d in the Oromocto when in season; and all the smaller streams abound with the finest description of trout. The Nerepis road from Fredericton to St. John, passes through the village at the mouth of the Oromocto, over which a sub- stantial bridge has recenMy been erected. At a distance of about five miles from the mouth of the Oromocto, the road di- vides; — that to ihe Nerepis and St. John diverging to the left, acd the other continuing on to the South Branch, and other settlements m that direction, the front of which are situated about twenty miles from the Oromocto village. This road passes through the Patterson settlement, vnd intersects the Nerepis road, five or six miles above Mathers' tavern. This route, as far as the South Branch settlement I have travelled several times; and as it is in excellent order, aid generally speaking level, is a ujost delightful drive, leading to a wclj settled and fertile country. h B m. The population in the vicinity of the South Branch of the Oromocto, has been Ctotimated at from four to /ive hundred per- sons; and there are probably one hundred ^nd fifty farms, comprising ihree thousand acres of cleared land, occupied by wealthy and independent communities. Between the South Brunch road and the stream of the same name, there is a tract of ungranted land sufficient to form three hundred fine farms. Unfortunately there is no road through it; but it is to be hoped the attention of government may be directed to the subject, and that this fertile portionof country will be laid off for settlement. Betweon the Oromor'o and the South Branch settlements, at the forks of the road already alluded tc, five or Bix miles from the mouth of the Oromocto, commences the Geary settlement, a location well adapted to meet the wants and requirements of those who formed it; but the land has been neglected, and the farms ruined as elsewhere, owing to the deleterious pursuits of lumbering. Between the Oromocto and this settlement, are two or three lots of ungranted land of an excellent quality. From the South Branch settlements to Hartt's Mills on the North Branch, is a distance of about thr^e miles; and the road continues on through the Rusagonis and Maryla*^'^ .citlement.s to Fredericton. There are several good farms and a large po- pulation on the North Branch; but all the cleared land is oc- cupied- In all the settlements on the Oromocto and its tribu- tary streams, it is pleasing to state, there arc places of public worship and a number of school". About seven niles from the mouth of the Oromocto, on the South-west Branch, is a delightful sheet of water called French Lake, about a mile and a r^uarter long and a mile broad, with extensive intervale. There is an interesting settlement here, and the scenery in the vicinity of the Lake is uncommonly fine, Its waters abound with trout of a superior flavor, and largo size; a very important item of intelligence to those gentlemen of the j^arrison at Fredericton, who may be fond of angling: as the distance from tliut place is only nineteen miles; and by stopping at Mrs. Nevers' excellent house, just below the mouth of the Oromocto during the night, an earl3 drive over a good road in the morning, will carry them tc the scene of pis- catory 5pOVt. B 7 V' \^ 40 At the mouth of the Oromocto, en its left branch, there is a fine body of intervale, exstending about a mile on the River St. John, and opposite to it is Oromocto Island, formed of al- luvial deposit, but which is not inhabited; the lots being own- ed by persons residing on the main land. There is r church and dissenting meeting-house at the village on the right bank; service being performed in the former by the minister of the establishment who resides at Maugerville, and who officiates at both places J aid Wesley an ministers from Fredericton, and other o'e;^ mi . 'ons occasionally, in the meeting-house. About two milcis ovci down, and opposite M'Lean's, are the county court-houee and jail. During the last summer the remains of several Indians were discovered near the bridge at the Oro- mocto, with various copper utensils, and other relics of by- gone days; and it is probable that here was an extensive set- tlement of the former natives of the country, and here the bu- rying place of a numerous and warlike tribe. On the right bank of the Oromocto, at a short distance from the mouth of the river, the land rises; and between the village awd court-house is a mnat eligible site for a town. Unfortu- ntely the lots are vvv large; and tho seat of government being established ,. ^ ' edericton, its natural advantages in this respect havi u ot i improved. Owing to a peculiar warmth in the stream itGv* , ihe Orcmocto generally remains open longer in autumn, and the St. John is navigable to that point earlier in the spring than at Fredericton. — The principal obstructions to navigation also occur above the Oromocto; and v,hen the fine country in its vicinity is considered, and we see the immense improvement that has taken place at Chatham, within the last twenty yeais, owing to the introduction of en- terprise and capii 1 there; it is not at all improbable, that at no distant period, n own vill arise at the mouth of tho Oro- mocto, where an enterprising mercai^tile house carries on ship- building to a considerable extent at present; and that here will ultimately be lY first place of deposit and transhipment of the prodi'.ctions of the upper country, and the imported goods of which its inhabitants ntay stand in need. •i i : CHAPTER VII. m There is a very good road near the River from the Oromocto to Fredericton, a distance of twelve miles; with a number of fine farms on each side of it, and considerable intervale. On the other bank of the St. John, the upper part of Maugerville e.\tends to the Ferry opposite the lower part of the town, where the Nashwaak empties from the northward; which river will be more fully described, when I come to speak of that side of the River, between this point and the Mactuquak, beyond Keswick Ridge, and nearly opposite the Indian village about twelve miles up the River. Fredericton is the . " As a military position it is unequalled, as from the conti- guity of the different important parts of the Province, they could be sooner succoured from this place than any other.— It also forms a connecting link between the Atlantic colonies and Canada; and is a safe and convenient place for forming magazines, and equipping troops on their route from the sea- board to Quebec. The importance of this place for those pur- poses was well realised during the last war, and should not soon he lost sight of. The river St. John seems to have beeu the old and usual route of the French and Indians in passing fVom Canada to Nova Scotia and New England, long before New Brunswick was settled; and Fredericton and the villages near it, no doubt, were among the principal Indian stations, long before the country was known to the French and English. According to Douglas, this was the most direct route from New England to Canada, and was taken by Col. Livingstone and the Baron Casline in the year 1710, when they went in great haste to acquaint the Governor General that Acadia had iisillea into the hands of the British. " The natural advantages Fredericton possesses from its cen- tral position become every year more apparent, and it is only to be wished that the time is not far distant, when her inhabi- tants will avail themselves of those facilities afforded by the proximity of water power, to establish manufactories and ma- chinery. Indeed, a spirit of enterprise appears to be rapidly spreading in that town, which cannot fail, if properly directed, to produce the most beneficial results," Thus eligibly situated, it certainly is to be regretted that it is not more distinguished for enterprise, and that it is destitute of those useful institutions which exercise so beneficial an effect upon society, and without which, its members must be deficient of that intelligence and liberality that characterise the present age; but which are almost invariably the result of intellectual improvement. It is also a misfortune for the place that efforts are not made, to arrest a larger portion of the trade of the upper part of the Province on its way to St. John. For the mer- chants generally speaking, procure their supplies of British, West India, and other goods from the city; and as steam- boats ply twice a-day between that place and Fredericton, a distance of about seventy-five miles by the River route, per- sons of stated incomes and others who can afibrd it, procure the principal part of their supplies and clothing from Halifax, that city, and even from England and the United States. Altho' there is abundance of cultivated and excellent land in the neighbourhood of the town, and settlements are springing up continually at no great distance, above and around it; yet the supplies of garden-stuff and other vegetables is extremely limited; and owing to this cause and the truck and barter sys- tem, against which public or iuion should be arrayed, the price demanded for uU the necessaries of life is extravagantly high for an inland country; and flour, meal and salted provisions are brought up from St. John, during the summer; while such is the neglected state of agriculture, and so inferior is the mode of husbandry throughout the Province, that large quan- tities of oats are iw^ported fro.n Europe, although they may be sown here without the risk of failure. Owing to the lumberir'! pursuits in which the people on this River us well as elsewhere have Engaged, and to which toilesorae and scml-savage life they are unaccountably prone; a large amount of property is tinder mortgage to the supplying merchants, who have to se- cure themselves in this way for provisions and other articles advanced, to enable parties to pursue an occupation attended with very great risk. — 'And as from various causes, individuals who are not involved, have farms to dispose of, emigrants or others having capital at command, and being desirous of settling in the country, can have no difficulty in procuring eligible situations every where in the Province, at a irtoderate pri • . •. ,? . >; !!)(.• ( / CHAPTER VIII. The present road to St. Andrews, to which I have before al* luded, as passing near the Oromocto Lake and Magaguadavic river, commences near the Government House at Fredericton, and turning to the led, passes for a distance of five or six miles through heavy hemlock and spruce land, with some portion of swamp; including in that distance the Hanwell settlement, consisting of perhaps twenty families of hardy, industrious and meritorious natives of the Emerald Isle, unfortunately doom- ed to spend their strength on a hard and unproductive soil, with plenty of excellentl land a few miles farther along the line, yet remaining, and likely long to remain, in a wilderness state, licnving the Hanwell, the road passes through much good farming land with several patches of swamp and barrens, and mm 46 «ome ranges of " stony gfround"; until it comes near the £ri- oa Lake, where Chassey, an active Canadian and several o- ther settles, have for a number of years been located. Here the soil is good and productive, and the same good land, bro- ken in some places as above, continues on each side of the line to the Harvey settlement. This is a settlement composed entirely of Eng'lish and Scottish emigrants, Borderers; who having been unfortunate in their bargain with the New Bruns- wick and Nova Scotia Land Company, were under the parti- cular patronage of the government settled there by way of ex- periment. They suffered severe hardships and privations for a time, both sexes carrying heavy loads on their backs a great distance through the wilderness: but have now comfortable dwellings, and clearings in the w ^ods, have raised fine crops these two last years; and the neatly thatched "stacks of corn'' that abound in tlie settlement, remind one of the old country. They and the Hunwell Irishmen are first-rate road makers.., j Beyond this settlemement there is a beautiful district of ex- cellent land, all owned and held in a wilderness state by the proprietors, until the expenditure of the public money on the Road, and the labours of the poor Emigrants shall quadru- ple its value; when passing near the Oromocto Lake, we come to the spot where Mr. Ensor, an eccentric English gentleman, some years since made a clearing and built a house, which have since been abandoned. From this point to the Magagua- davic, the land, though much of it is pretty good for agricultural purposes, is inferior in quality to that between Ensor 's and the Harvey settlement. This point is forty-three miles from Fre- dericton. — Here is the Brockway settlement, still in York County, containing* a house of entertainment, a Blacksmith's shop, and a school well attended. From Brockway 's to Dig- deguash there are not yet any settlers; there is a fair propor- tion of good land, but much of it between the two rivers is flat and low, and unfit for cultivation. Beyond the Digdeguash the road passes through two extensive settlements of the Parish of St. Patrick in the County of Charlotte; then crossing the Waweig, it runs through the settlements in the Parish of St. .A s/.ews, to its termination at the Court House in the town of (hat name on the Peninsula, at the head of the Inner Bay o 4ri Pnssamaquoddy. — ^Tho whole distance being about seventy-ae- ven miles. From Brockway's to St. Stephens, there is a branch line partly opened. The land between the Digdeguash and Maga- guadavic, is very much the same as that through which the St. Andrews line passes; from Digdeguash to Saint Stephen the land is much better, and mostly owned by individuals. By this line, St. Stephen will be brought within sixty-five miles of Fredericton, the road will be very level; and before many years, will be easily travelled in a day. The whole distance to St. Andrews is now open, and prepared for winter travelling; more than two-thirds of which is turnpiked. And in pursuance of a recommendation from the Legislature, the land in this line of road which remained ungranted, has been laid off in 100-a- ere lots for actual settlement. It is to be hoped that some farther Legislative enactment will shortly pass; which either by imposing a tax on wilderness land, or in some other way, will break up the shameful monopoly which at present exists in this and the neighboring Piovince; whereby the finest portion of the country is held by individuals who will not improve it. The main road from Fredericton to Woodstock, for eigh- teen miles is on the rigtii bank of the River, and is quite level for the first five miles afler leaving Fredericton; when it ascends, and proceeds along an elevated tract of country, pass- ing several excellent farms, and a large body of intervale and islands of that description; whioh for a considerable distance, are concealed from the view of t^he traveller; until at length Sugar Island and others at Keswick Creek, open upon his view, and present a panorama which for richness and beauty is not to be exceeded in the Province. The land over which the road extends is of considerable altitude; and underneatli one's feet as it were, are spread out the beautiful level country, at the entrance of the valley of the Keslirick; while the Ridge of that name, in the rear of the Bluff facing the River, extends away on its lefl, until it is lost in the distant forest, that bounds the horizon beyond it. » m m m mm m It was here, during my tour in 1837, that I first observed 48 the deep ochry tint of the clay, which is met with partially throughout the Province; but no where else of so dark a color. In fact, it is a deep red: and has evidently been brought there during some deluge that swept over the country; aa it is found only on the summits of the hills, but raroly in the vallies, and that at no depth. And where the road has been cut down a few feet, you meet v/ith a light colored and friable clay, quite distinct from the superincumbent stratum. ■am i^ iuo iiBid*u% ohfi sitt ■i:%&mm ■jUiWioid/j) vi. ohl-d «i Opposite Kiswick BlufT, there is a large body of intervale on the right bank of the River, which has been produced by some counter current, when the River was at a higher level than at present; similar to that which deposited the strata, upon which Fredericton is built. Here are several fine farms forming a settlement that is called French village. A few miles beyond it, there is an Indian village, consisting of houses built for the Aborigines of the country, and which they inhabit; still retain- ing howeve-, their native wild and untameable, yet inofiensiva disposition. There has been considerable improvement made on this line of road, during the last two years; with a view to con- fine the post communication to Woodstock on this side of the River; but from just beyond the French village, it passes through much poor land: that which is not occupied possess- ing little inducement for settlers, until it reaches Long's, six-" teen miles from town; where at present the road crosses a ra- pid and dangerous ferry, and is carried along through Queens- bury and Northampton, on the opposite side of the St. John to Woodstock. ■, ■: .;5^Cfi;*iJ6iii©/, 4 u n-!tu s^iMsi •*Jt':i4 4 '>t*-i M<>%i>ni»i» a^sw Two steamboats until the present summer, have plied regu- larly between Fredericton and St. John, leaving that place and Indian-town every day, at seven o'clock in tho morning, and arriving at St. John between three and four, and at Fre- dericton about four in the aflernoon ; when not impeded by the stream, which runs with ^uch velocity when the River is at its height in the spring and autumn. The fare in these boats is very reasonable, being ten shillings in the cabin, and half price forward: and in proportion when passengers embark on board on their way up or down; with a reasonable charge for break- fast aod dinner. The night boats are also a great convenience. 40 one leavini; Indian-town and Fredericton trarj evening at six o'clock, and arriving at their destination early on the following morning; but from the circumstance of persons centinually coming on board and leaving them on their passage, and the constant conversation that is going on all night, but little re- freshing sleep can be obtained. If the tide answers in the morn- ing when the boat arrives at Indian town, she frequently pro- ceeds through " the Falls" to take in freight at the city ; which is quite an exhilirating passage, the tide rushing out with con- siderable velocity, and requiring several persons at the wheel, to make the flying vessel answer her helm. I would advise persons however who are not pressed for time, to take passage in the day-boats; by which means they will enjoy a view of jLhe scenery of the St. John, which it is admitted by all travellers, is not to be exceeded by any thing of the kipjd in Europe or America. -iiJiVm .M'.i ^i.f"'4 In 1837, in consequence of encouragement offered by the Legislature, a steamboat was despatched from Fredericton, and reached Woodstock, sixty miles above it; but owing to the obstructions^at the Maductic rapids, which might be easily overcome by diverting the channel of the River at that pointy and the want of public support, the project was abandoned; and supplies of provisions and British and West India goods, con- tinue to be carried up in tow-boats, ^nd are frequently poled up by the Frei^eh people in tl^eir canoes to the foot of the Grand Falls, where they are carried over a short portage, and again forced up against the 'stream to the Madawaska, a distance of one hundred and eighty miles above Frederictop, I.!ltl«!il;r tfliii'.Hy '! ! ■.,V-y This is but a meagre, although a true account of the steam- communicatjon, on aBiver not to be surpassed for beauty of scenery or fertility of soil and adaptation for agricultural im-o provement by any place in America; and nothing can more for- cibly demonstrate that the energies of the people of this Pror vince have been directed in a wrong channel, than the circum- stance, that but one or two solitary day-boats, c^p with diflji- culty be supported, and the same number of night boats find employment: and these only on the first seventy or eighty miles of a River nearly four hundred in extent; and that those G i *>*efl* Md wk« ishabit iii« laluriaBt dlirtfibta on ifi ghot^s, ftr« in » great aaauura indebted to other countries .')r the /ery bread they eat «nd clothes that cover them ; instead of having abundance of aurplua produce, with which to supply the commercial metro- polis on the sea-board, that contains a population of nearly twenty thousand souls; but who have to look to the neighbour- ing Province, to Europe and the United States, for that supply of provi«ions, which with proper management, skill and indus- try, might be raised within the colony itself. - ,-.;;;:.;, Before qu' ig this part of my subject, I ould call public attention to apid communication, which exists in the sum- mer, and probably will continue during every future winter, be- tween Fredericton and Halifax, the capital of the Province of Nova Scotia ; where the steamboats from England will arrive every fortnight, conveying Her Majesty's mails. By leaving Fredericton in the morning's boat, a passenger may arrive in St. John early in the afternoon; and after spending three or foiir hours or more there, can embark on board another steamer for Windsor, fbrty-five miles from Halifax and a hundred from St. John; aiid aided by the rapid tide of (he Bay of Fundy, will reach that place in time to take the coach for Halifax, and arrive there before dinner. He may thus in fact breakfast one day at Fredericton, and dine on the following- at Halifax, without any otber fatigue than that Which will be caused by a ride of forty-five milei over a compai-atively level road from r. Windsor to Halifax.' ''" '"' ' -^^^^'"i* .»' i^'io-ti; ->f '*-,.. i,o7 tic order and comfort of a family mainly depend, those of ■ good description are mucV ^ran^ed; but it is in vain to expeeC them, in the absenc<- .t :u ^^ v^holesome laws and r CHAPTER IX. .... :.o.,ui.M,a... #..♦ Will* „tw:it ..^fi-yt.'iU.'-'i • i-n\rn -ujU:'. nii 'ii»>i.;.i sr^ Ti. iteep hill, pursues its course over a dreary portage of some twelve or flfleen mileS m extent, until it arrives within four or five miles of Boiestown situatod on the South-west Miramichi about seventy miles from Chatham, and forty from Fredericton. There is a fertile tract of country, sufficient for at least two or three hundred families, on the eastern side of the Nashwaak, back from the river, ly- ing between the Penyauk and McLeod's at the entrance of the Portage. And there is a minute of Council recently passed, recommending the exploring a road thro' it, and the layirt| out 100-acre lots on each side. ' 'I . S«v«ral officers and men of the gallant 42(1 Regt. formerly ntceiy^d lands on the Nashwaak; some few of whom stilt re* main; ,^ut the lands have generally descended to their children. These lots were unfortunately laid out with a very narrow front; and in this way the parties who received them, were much cramped in the means of obtaining a livelihood. About 6(leen iniles from Fredericton, the Tay Creek intersects the Nashwaak from the westward, and five or six miles from its mouth, it separates into the North and South Branches; at the head of which are the Cardigan and Tay settlements. On this Creek there is a considerable bed of coal, of an excellent qua- lity; but which belongs to the Land Company who have a grant of the chief part of the lands in this vicinity. From this bed Fredericton might easily be supplied with this almost indis- pensable article of fuel, at a moderate rate; and which at pre- sent has to be brought from beyond the Atlantic or the Island of Cape Breton. About twenty-two miles from its mouth, the Nashwaak river turns to the led and passes throuj< h the village of Stanley, of which notice will be taken hereafter; and ex- tends within a short distance of the source of the Shiktahauki that empties into the St. John above Woodstock. Between the mouth of the Nashwaak and that of the Nash- wasis, or Little Nashwaak, — the termination -asis in the In- dian dialect meaning little: is about two miles; along which a road passes, parallel with the margin of the River. In front of which during the summer, a number of Indian famiiies ge- jierally encamp. These unfortunate people have greatly de- jgenerated, and are fast becoming extinct; but not from any ill-usage or want of kindness and consideration on the part of their more civilized brethren. They are every where in these provinces on the most friendly terms with the white inhabi- tants; who always accost them with the term *' Brother** or " Sister," and perform towards them many acts of unobtrusive charity. They are a harmless people, much attached to the British government and the inhabitants of these Provinces: and an individual may confidently trust himself to the care and at- tendance of his Indian guide; penetrate with him the most re- note and almost impervious forest, and rest securt in his lit- is am «/ -.'.»ift'„'L.j ij^ ..' I..I.J. ' k.. .l-ftL, ti tegrity and knowledge 6f the country which hemaj be traTem- ing. Various attempts have been made to induce these peop]« to adopt the modes and habits of cultivated humanity ; but coi»- tent with the freedom they have hitherto enjoyed, they roam thro' the country at pleasure. Sitting down near some favorite hunting ground or fishing stream: on the margin of a lake, or in some dense forest sheltered from the wintry blast: they th«;re satisfy the wants of nature, which are few; and remove when tired of the monotony of the place, — on the appearance of warmer weather, or the approaching scarcity of food. Thus living a life of seclusion and independence, they care not for events that are happening around: > - -•• r i iHj « Enough for them, in ignorance bred, , , ^ . ,, , ■ ' . Night yields to mom, and sun to rain ; ^ •.;>,i.; That nature's pulse in winter dead, iju »; .,■: »; By Spring rekindled throbs again." ij i j'-t- J ,. ^. _,., .. ,^, J .■„ . . . . ■■ ( i .'<■ J i ) : < I . . < C > .^■ • ,:- , ^ . . -^ 1 ■ n^o - CHAPTER X. The Nastiwasis is a small stream, extending as has alrea* dy been stated, in a northerly direction. It enters the St. John opposite tUe Government house at Fredcricton. Near its mouth is . iurge brewery which was erected about four years since by some English capitalists, but which proved a fail' are; and has ceased operations for some time. This river rune in a northerly course for six miles, and then br hes off ia easterly and westerly directions for a distance ofniua miles far- ther. There is considerable intervale below and about the Forks, where it is thickly settled. — The land is good however farther up. At a mile from the mouth of the Nashwasis, there is a grist, saw and fulling mill, and a carding machine; and another saw mill at the Forks. The vacant land in the vicini- ty of tbit river, belongs to the Land Company; but farint eui 1 56 ba obtained without difficult/ bj person! who are desirous of purchasing, either cleared or unimproved. There is a school in this settlement, and others in those of the Cardigan and Taj Creek. The Royal Road crosses the eastern branch of the Naahwasis, half a mile from its junction with the main stream; and the Cardigan settlement to which it leads, commences about eight miles from this point, extending for a distance of six- teen or seventeen miles until it reaches the Tay settlement, which continues about eight miles farther, the two embracing probably twenty-five miles. The lots are laid off in the Cardi- gan settlement in two tiers, and ate partially settled in the .e- cond; to the westward of which is the Bird settlement, four miles from Cardigan, near where the Tay Creek heads, '^i the west branch ef the Nashwasis, is what is called the King settlement, consisting of fifteen or twenty families. The Cardigan settlement is well peopled, principally by a body of persons from Wales. At this place the Rev. Dr. Jacobs, Principal of King's College, has a country residence: to which he retires when his duties and avocations at the Col- lege permit; and where he is the officiating clergymai . Car- digan lies in the heart of the territory purchased by the Land Company; but over which they exercise no jurisdiction or con- troul, having been previously granted to the individuals who settled it. The Royal Road of which I have spoken was com- menced a few years since, extending when completed, in a di- rect line to the Grand Fails, and shortening the distance con- siderably. But the line was injudiciously laid out at first; and aKViough there is doubtless considerable quantities of good land in its vicinity and fronting upon it, and it passes through an ex- tent of country in many places fit for settlement: yet there seems to be no disposition f the part of the public, to take up land in that quarter. .,„ ;» . . , ,, i ,. . .... ,, <^, Eight miles from the commencement of this road, and near the Cardigan settlement, that to Stanley diverges to the right and proceeds to that settlement, a distance of sixteen miles, crossing the branches of the Nashwasis and 'I" ay Creek, and running parallel with the road through Cardigan, about tlirec n^iles from it; and about the same distance from the muin 57 Nashwaak road. I have been favoured by Lt. Goi. Hay me Commissioner of the Company, m*h the following sketch of (be Stanley settlement, and the proceedings of the Land Com- pany already referred to; and to which an extensive tract of country in this district belongs, consisting of upwards of half 9 million of acres. - • m-^ .< - -^ . -^ ii 1, ■ > .» j ■i,c >' The New Brunswick and Nova Scotia Land Company in- corporated by Royal Charter and Act of Parliament, purchas. ed from the crown, a tract of land containing about 550,000 acres eligibly situated in the coun*y of York, Province of New Brunswick, and lying for the most part between the Rivers St. John and the South West Branch of the Miramicbie. — The Company con^menced their operations by opening a road, from a point on tho Royal Road situated about eight miles from Fredericton, which was extended to Stanley, the present seat of the Company's business; which is 24 mile«' from Fredericton. Stanley is situated on the banks of the Nashwaak River, which ict navigable for canoes throughout the year, and for batteaux and light scows during four or five weeks in the spring. Here there are extensive and w^U con- structed saw, grist and oatmeal mills, a church and a school- house, and two good taverns for the accommodation of travel- lers. Independent of the Company's officers who reside here, there are several carpenters, masons and blacksmiths, md some other tradesmen; the land in the immediate neighbour- hood of this place is excellent." To this fact I can add my testimony, having had an opportunity of visiting the settle- ment, when some of the settlers had not been three years in the country; and they were already in comfortable circumstan- ces, raising large quantities of oats, grain and potatoes, and their premises presenting every where the neat and tidy appear^- ance, for which the cottagers of England arc distinguished. *' The Company continued their road from Stanley for about seventeen miles in a northerly diection, until it struck tho South West Miramichie: nearly opposite to which is situate the embryo town of Campbell; which at present consists of a few unoccupied houses, a good saw mill in full operation, a Blacksmith's shop, and two or three good dwelling houses, in II 111 w r 1. 58 wfaieh the men engaged in the mill reside. There are some excellent old farms on each side the mill property, which was purchased from the Hon. J. Cunard; there is a good deai of cleared land on the south side of the river, which is occupied by Emigrants who are doing well; and a very tolerable road leading from " the mill" to a ferry opposite Boiestown, a dis- tance of about five miles; on which road and on the banks of the river there are some thriving settlers, as is also the case above Campbell. The Road from Stanley to Campbell, altho' well-bridged and passing generally speaking, through lands well adapted for settlement, is only occupied as far as the Cross-Creek, four miles from Stanley; the Road beyond which place is scarcely passable in the summer, owing to its being thickly covered with underbrush. From Stanley towards Fredericton the road is closely settled for the first three miles, and therir only an occasional occupant is seen for the next five; the remaining eight mil>38 to the Royal Road is tenantless at pteselit ; but there is every prospect of two or three families establishing themselves on this portion of the road early next spring. ■■ ■'■' '•■■?■••■ '.'J V-'- ■ i.'t^! \,'L\ ,,7 ,:-.)i \■r^ The Company were very unfortunate in its selection of set- tlers, having brought them from the Isle of Sky. These were chiefly fishermen, totally unacquainted with farming operations; who soon became dissatisfied, and ultimately Icflthis Province for the Canadas and Prince £dward Island, where they had friends or relations; their passage to those places being* de- frayed by the Company. The lands that they occupied, and which are 100-acre lots, are now for sale at a reasonable rate, for actual settlement. There is a road from Stanley to J. M'Laggin's lot on the Nashwaak, which passes thro' a large tract, containing a clearance of 150 acres of excellent land, which is leased to the Messrs. Blake; on the expiration of which it will be sold in lots of a hundred or two hundred acres; and each lot will have a portion of cleared land attached to it. There is also a toler- ably good bye-road; upon which aid is at present voted by the Legislature, that leads from Stanley to liie Tay settlement, and which passes thro' iund of an excellent quality ; and that of ed ad is- of 59 id not to bo surpassed I understand, in the Province. There are besides, two lines of road, to vrhich Col. Hayne al^ ludes; which as they would connect Fredoricton with the more northern portions of the country, by a more direct and shorter route, than that at present pursued, I shall give in that gen- tleman's own words; to whom the inhabitants of that distant and valuable part of the Province, will doubtless feel grateful, for the interest he evidently feels in their welfare. '' *• There is another distant section of the Province," saya Col. Hayne, the growing and manifest importance of which, renders it, I humbly conceive, essential (since it is easy of execution) that it bo connected with the Seat of Government by a much shorter route. — I allude to Campbelltown on the Restigouche. The distance from Fredericton to that place by the present mail road, is 247 miles; that by which I pro- pose to connect those two places, is only about 135, forty-two of which, viz. from Fredericton to Campbell on the South West Miramichie, is at present partially opened. I learn too, from Indians and others who have traversed the country, that altho' intersected by streams, it offers nothing approachable to a difficulty in execution." .'I ■isiii (■ '.: n«!j*'i ,':. Hii^ii It would seem that the Land Company were induced to be- lieve, that this line of road would be opened by the Province, and in this expectation, made clearances; on several of which log huts were built, as a cover for the settlers; and they are willing at present to make great sacrifices in the sale of lands, if steady and industrious families should be found to occupy them. Col. Hayne also states, that the distance from Fred- ericton to Bathurst by the present route is 159 miles, while one via Stanley would be 117. The road from Woodstock al- so to that place, which at present is 223 miles, would thus be reduced to 131 ; which in a military point of view at least, is worthy of consideration. And altho' in making these state- ments. Col. Hayne very laudably takes into account the inte- rests of tlic Company, with which he in associated, and who have expended JE 100,000 in carryijig into efl'cct their plans; yet his sugge^itions arc evidently beneficial tu the Province at large. ti 60 f n concludiBg these remarks as respects the Land Company, it may be as well to state, that with reference to the lands in the vicinity of the Stanley settlement, they will dispose of those that are vacant on the road leading to Tredericton, consisting of 100-acre lots, including log-houses and cleared land, at from three shillings and sixpence to siic shillings per acre, ac- cording to the ii. • /vnfir,moC> fjnjjJ jiu ,11 abnB) ods ri} fon >aui!tlo Odoijcib I! • To return to the River road. Passing from the moUtn df tn^ Nashwaak to that of the Nashwasis, where it crosses a bridge ^ it pursues its course at'no greslt distance from the St. John^ through the Parish of Douglas, which lies between this point and the Keswick ; and where are a number of fine farms on each side of the road. An improvement however has recently betiB made on this line.— *About three miles from the ferry opposite Fredericton, it Has been made to turii to the left and continue near the Fiver, instead of passing in the rear and ever a roujjh and hilly country, and for a distance of five miles with one exception, is almost a perfect level: rendering it A pleasant drive from Frcderictoti, and commanding a most de^ lightful view of the St. John. This line joins the old one near the mouth of Keswick Creek: where another branches off, and passed by a circuitous route, through the valley in which it flows; while the first crosses the Creek, and continuing on td the Ridge, over which it passes thro' a well settled country; descends at its termination, and again meets the branch thvi has come thro' the valley; and continues its course, until it intersects the present post road, on the lefl brdnch of the Ri- ver at Queensbury t' ■•') 'U; qhK It is nine miles from Frcdv3ricton, where the Keswick Creek empties into the St. John. This has evidently been at some time a wide and extensive river, the opposite shore of which i§ plainly discernible from the Ridge, an elevated tract of coun- try, lying about a mile and a-half in the rear of Keswick BIufT,. opposite the French village on the St. John, to which allusion has been made in a-former chapter. This Creek extends about forty miles in a west-north-west direction, for which distance it is navigable for canoes, during the spring and autumn. It heads near the sources of the Nackavvickak and the Nashwaak, and is settled for twenty miles above its junction with the River St. John. There arc large bodies of intervale on both sides of the Creek; and probably a hundred fine farms, with a I 62 numerous population. There are two churches in this district, and also two places of worship on Keswick Ridge, of which I shall presently speak. This is a fine farming country, and is well adapted for pasturage or raising grain. It was subject in former years to early frosts; but as the Proyince becomes cleared, they are less frequent. During the past year, largo quantities of excellent grain have been raised in the vicinity of the Keswick; one individual alone having obtained a hundred bushels, from five of seed. Keswick Ridge commences at the Cross Roads, as they are called; and runs in a north-west direction. It is five miles in length and one and a half wide; lying between Keswick Creek and the Scotch settlement. The ridge is an elevated district; and is composed of good land, well adapted for the cultivation of fruit trees. There are a number of good farms on the Ridge, and two places of worship — an independent meeting-house, with a resident minister of that denomination, and a methodist chapel: in which a minister of that persuasion officiates once in a fortnight. There are two good schools on the Ridge, and others in various parts of this interesting por- tion of the Province. Three miles from the mouth of the Creek, and at the upper extremity of the Bluff; the Mactuquak empties into the St. John, and extends twenty miles in a north-westerly direction, terminating near the Scotch Lake, which discharges into the Little Mactuquak. Around this Lake which is a mile and a half in length, there are twelve or fourteen farms. On the Mactuquak, there is a mill establishment, called Jouett's mills, twelve miles from Fredericton; to which and the Scotch Settlement the road already alluded to extends, passing to the rear of Cliffs and Curry's, and joining the main road as before stated, near Parents' at Queensbury. This road has been much neglected, owing to the inhabitants disagreeing as to the line; but it is very desirable it should be put in good condition, as by crossing the Ferry at Fredericton, a very fa- tiguing ride on the west side of the River, and the dangerous Ferry at Long's, may be avoided. About three miles froui the Lake, is the Scotch Settlement, consisting of at least twcn- 63 rict, chl d is ct io ty families. The land la good in this district, but is chiefly owned by the New Brunswick and Nova Scotia Land Company. The Mactnquak, except in very dry times, may be navigated by canoes to Jouett's mills, up to which it is settled; and at about seven or eight miles from its mouth, it branches off into two separate streams; which pass through land of an inferior quality. '.:'■\^■■. ¥ . »«* On the margin of the St. John, between the Shugomock and Eel River, there are extensive tracts of intervale; a very fine body of which, is to be found in the neighbourhood of what is termed the Dow settlement, about three miles below the latter stream ; and at Jones' immediately opposte Eel River, there is one of the finest farms in the country. I here met with the first instance of those distinct beds of intervale, so common on the margin of the upper part of the St. John, forming terraces one above the other, at the height probably of from eight to ten feet; and deposited during different temporary elevations of the St. John. Eel River is longer ihan either of those just alluded to, al- though they are by no means insignificant streams. It heads near the Cheputneticook, at no great distance from the Monu- ment, whence the present but I trust temporary boundary line, runs due north to Mars hill. There is a portage between the I lakes, at the head of both these rivers, at a distance of from twenty-five to thirty miles from its mouth. There ig no inter- vale on this river, but the uplfind is good and fit for settlement; and canoes may navigate up to the Falls, when the water is high. A bridge has been recently erected across the mouth of this river, which was very much wanted, as previously foot pas- sengers found it difficult to cross, there being no house near it; particularly on the lower side. — Fish arc scarce in Eel River. Four miles back from the St. John, and at a distance of two miles from this stream, ai. Irish settlement has been formed, Ihat lies between this river and Richmond, which is situated between Woodstock and the American post at Iloulton, or rather may be considered a branch of that settlement. The land in this neighbourhood where it is good is pretty well settled. But wo must retrace our steps, and examine the left bank of the St. John; commencing with the Nakawickak Creek, which empties opposite a suddo'' turn in the St. John, about thirty- five miles from Frederic; n; and intersects it on its eastern sido. The gorge is very wide at its junction with the St. John; and carries its width up to the Forks, a distance of six or se- ven miles from its outlet. The Nackawickak has four branch- es, the North-west and Little North-west — the North-east and Little North-east. The principal north-east branch runs to tho cast of tho Caverhill settlement, about five miles from the main road; the Little North-west runs parallel with the St. John, after it resumes its usual course. 'J'he Big North-west is the centre branch, and heads near the source of the Pckagomic, a riVer emptying into the St. John from the eastward above Woodstock; where the head-waters of these rivers are divided. There is a small quantity of intervale; and the upland is of a mixed quality — good and bad. The Caverhill sottlemcut just, alluded to, is of considerable extent; and on some of the farms there are extensive clearings. There are others but partially cleared tliat are not settled, and which might be purchased. The wilderness land lying from northwest, easterly round to the south-cast belongs to the Land Company; the upper corner of their grant striking the cleared land in the rear of the Nacka- wickak, about forty-three miles from Fredericton, and nine or ten miles from the South-west Miramichi, crossing the former C7 river. There is a valuable tract of wilderness land containing about 1500 acres, belonging to the Cornprtiy, situated two miles to the northward of the Caverhill settlement; which I understand from Col. Hayne is not surpassed by any upland soil in the Province. Canoes may proceed at certain seasons five or six miles up the Nackawickak; but the navigation is dif- ficult, and supplies for lumbering parties have fo be carried a- cross difforcnt portages. There is a settlement at present for- ming about four miles from the bridi^e at the mouth of this ri- ver; and to reach it the settlers have at present to travel twelve miles, the cross road coming out to the river eight miles high- er up. Wore a road cut from this !>ridge, extending in the rear of tijc Kiver lots, till it struck tl:c Mewburg settlement, near the Pekagomic, a distance of sixteen miles; it would pasa tliro' a tract of excellent land, tliat has not yet been granted to any extent, and would not only aftord an excellent location for emigrants, and others; but would cross the heads of several streams, and pass thro' a compurativcly level country. There is another Creek in the vicinity of the Nackawickak, culled tiio Koack, which has three branches; one of which is- sues from a lake two miles distant from the St. John; the other two cross the road loading to the Caverhill settlement. There arc small spots of intervale in several parts of the Nackawick- ak, t)ut which arc of no importance; and if any opinion can be formed of the land in the neighbourhood, from what is to bo seen on the post-road, it must be of an inferior deacription. The country near the river on the east side, becomes more level from lie Nackawick.ik to \Voodstock; and is more free from those boulders of granite, that arc to be found about (iuecnH!)ury; large numbers of wliich are to be met with on fho roud in tliat neighbourhood. There a'c also several Islands be- tween thn ferry and this point, among others Bear Island, and a valuable property of this description, belonging to tlic iato Peter Fraser, Ksq. which is at present advertised fo. sale. The St. Juhn as has been already stated, here makes a suddeii ■ detour forming nearly a half circle, — l!ic other extreme of which is at the mouth of the Meduxnikik, which intersects the river af " vVoodstock, the shirc-town of the County of Carlcton. la tho n a north-westerly direction for about fifteen miles, when it s;^')aratcs into two branches, which pass into the American territory. There is abundance of intervale on this river, and many excellent farms. The land is chiefly granted; but there is much that is unimproved that is well a- dapted for cultivation, which might prol)ably be bougiit at a fair price. The number of farms on this river may be estimat- ed at between twenty and thirty; and in the settlement there is a school, Salmon and trout are plentiful; the former are ta- ken in largo numbers at the falls, which arc situated at the Forks. A few miles to the northward of the Meduxnikik, and exten- ding' up the Uiver, is the settlement of Jucksontoun, which embraces a very su()crior tract of country, that is laid out in tiers, parallel with the bend of the River, tho cross-lines which intersect them running back from the St, John to the American boundary, 'J'hcre is a large population in Jacksontown, aujong whom are many independent farmers. In thi.s settlement ihcro arc two Baptist meeting-houses; and a church is about being 71 !3 ercctetl. — There aro also very good schools. The road from Woodstock, as has already been observed, passes through this settlement; and cross-roads from the River intersect it at dif- ferent places. The former is about becoming the main post road in this quarter; and travellers will thus avoid some very bad hills, that are on the line in front. At present it extends* and will continue to pass through the Williamstown settlement, where that of Jacksonfown terminates. After crossing the I'resq-islc, it will intersect the main post road at the River de Chute, and thence proceed to the Grand Falls about thirty- five miles farther up the river. The road through the Willi- amstown settlement, passes over a most fertile and level dis- liicl: large tracts of which, particularly in the neighborhood of the Prcsq-isle, as has already been stated, have been gran- ted to land-speculators, which ought to be thrown open for settlement: and those who hold them, should be compelled by an act of the Legislature, to pay a tax in common with others, on all wilderness lands; and in this way, contribute to the making of those roads, which are materially increasing the value of property every where. The land between the River and the Williamstown and Jacksontown settlements, is of the same ex- cellent qiality, and embraces the parishes of Wakefield and AVicklow. On the road leading from the Presq-isle to the St. John, coming out opposite Tomkins' there are a few fiirms; to tlio northward of which there are two flourishing sethements^ called J3ubcr and Greenfield, at a distance of three or four miles from the banks of the main River. :i' . .i; CHAPTER XIV. >.' I NiNB miles above Woodstock, the road from Jacksontown, in which those frcn; the difierent tiers in that settlement con- centrate, intersects the present mail route in front of the River, near what is termed the white meeting-house at Wakefield. From this point, the main road passes over a rough country ; although it travenses in many parts, fertile beds of intjrvale: occasionally winding along the margin of the river, which is ge- nerally speaking well cleared and settled. Four or five miles from this, there is another place of worship, also belonging to the Baptist denomination; and at a short distance above it, the road ascends, and passes along an elevated tra^. ' of country, commanding a fine view of the extensive intervale on the oppo- site dide of the River: although that on the west side, is hid from the view of the traveller; particularly the fine farm be- longing to Mr. Raymond, which commences just where the road ascends. The upland however, in this section of the Province, and extending beyond the boundary line to the west- ward, is of a most fertile character. About four miles from where the road just mentioned, strikes the St. John, the Little PresqMale flows from the westward, and crosses the road to which I have just been alluding. This stream runs in a north-westerly direction, a distance of seven or eight miles, till it reaches a chain of largo lakes and low land, that are surrounded by considerable bodies of excellent high-land, which has been already referred to, as lying beyond Jacksontown. Seven miles above the mouth of this river, is the Big Presq'-isle ; that to which allusion was made at the conclusion of the last chapter; and which also runs in a north-westerly direction. It is navigable for canoes nearly twenty miles, and to the foot of Mars hill, the terminus of the boundary line, that was erroneously run from the source of the Chiputneticook instead of the St. Croix. This river divides into several minor branches; and its entire length, may be es- timated at forty miles. The highland in the vicinity of the Presq'-isle is excellent ; find is not to be exceeded in extent 73 and fertility by any In the Province The fish on this river are chiefly trout, which are of an excellent quality; and until mills were erected, salmon were taken here. In the settlements on the upper side of this river to which allusion has been made, there are several very fine farms. There are schools in the district; but no places of worship. In this part of the country, particularly near the St. John, owing to the pursuit of lumber- ing, farms in many instances, have fallen into the hands of the supplying merchants; and persons having money, could obtain most advantageous locations in this part of the Province at a cheap rate; and would soon place themselves in independ- ent circumstances. On the east side of the St. John, about ten miles above the Woodstock court house, the Pekagomik enters that River, and runs for four or five miles in a north-east direction, where the Coal-slrcam empties. It then turns to the east-south-east, about ten miles to the Forks, and there divides into the North and South Branches, which flow for about fifteen miles: at first in opposite directions, and then gradually approach, until at their heads they overlap each other; the area forming an oval, composed of elevated land, covered with hard and soft wpod. The Coal-stream empties into the Pekagomik from the north- east, and extends upwards till it crosses the road from the Little Shiktahawk to the little south-west branch of the Great South- west ifliramichi. There is not much intervale on the Pekago- mick, until you reach the south-west branch; where there is a considerable quantity. The quality of the upland on the lower section is excellent for tillage; but about the branches it is not so good. The Coal-stream however, flows through excellent land nearly its whole extent; where there are settlements of seven or eight miles in length on both sides. On the Pekago- mik also there are extensive settlements, both near its margin and in the rear; some farms having a hundred acrfes of cleared land. Canoes may proceed up this river, for seventeen or eigh- teen miles, during the ordinary rise of the river. There are trout and eels in those streams, but few other fish. In the rear there is abundance of ungranted land: although much that has been cleared on each side has not been granted; ■ill P I i 74 but it is probable the settlers in that neighbourhood, arc living under licence ot' occupation, not having fulfilled the terms upon which land is granted. There are two places of worship at a distance from the mouth of the Pekagomik, but at present only one is occupied. Schools are commonly kept there; and owing to the liberality of the Legislature, these can always be sup- ported, if the settlers are desirous of doing so. There arc se- veral saw and grist mills on these streams, and also at the mouth of the river. '.II' The Pekagomik empties opposite Wakefield; both below and above it, the land fronting the River is good, and there are several fine farms, particularly one belonging to Mr. Hay- den, who came from the United States. I have not been on his property since 1837 ; but understand it has been much improved during the last two or three years, and may be considered a pattern farm. Adjoining this is a property belonging to Mr. McMuIlin, who owns a large tract on the opposite side of the River — I believe 1200 acres in one block. The place he oc- cupies on the east side is most delightfully situated, there being different beds of intervale, — on the second of which his dwell- ing house is situated; and if I recollect correctly, there is ano- ther in the rear. At the mouth of the Pekagomik, Mr. Sam- uel A. N'evers, has a fine grist and sawmill establishment; also an oat-mill and kiln. The next large stream flowing into the St. John from the eastward is the Shiktahawk: which intersects it about four miles above the Big Presq' Isle on the opposite side, and twen- ty-two miles from Woodstock. This river rises in a ridge of highlands that separates the waters of the Little south-west Miramichi, from those which fall into the St. John: and runs in about a south-west direction till it strikes the main River; flow- ing through a hilly country, with a soil of excellent quality and covered mostly with hard wood. I am informed by Col. Hayno, who has ascended the South-west Miramichi, as high as the Up- per Forks, and passed from thence by an excellent lumber road to the St. John near the Shiktahawk, that the land between the two rivers is in every respect eligible for settlement. Tho extent of this river is probably twenty miles, and near its head- •rl g In a waters Is one of the lakca in which the Nashwaak has its rise. There are no Battlements on this stream, which is rapid in its course; nor is the land grjinted. The cause of this absence of settlement, may be attributed in a great measure, to the steep ascent from the river, and the consequent difficulty in getting a road made, when other places offered greater facilities. There is a settlement however, between this river and the Little Shik- tahawk, which enters the St. John a short distance below the other. About three miles above, is the Munquat, which resembles the Shiktahawk, flows in the same direction nearly, and has the same quality of land; which is still in an ung'ranted state. There are other minor streams in the vicinity, which it is un- necessary here to particularise; with the exception of the River de Chute, which rises near Mars hill, and after running about twelve miles, empties into the St. John at the same distance be- low the Tobique, and thirty-six miles above Woodstock. The land in this direction is of a superior quality ; but that near the River has been taken up. At the mouth of the River de Chute, there are falls of about eight feet perpendicular height, that prevent boats from ascending. There are several Islands on the portion of the St. John, Avhich we have passed since leaving Woodstock; and a very line one is situated opposite the centre village at that place. The farthest island however, is called Green Island, and is just above the Big Presq' Isle. The St. John carries a uniform width up to the Tobique; and although there are some minor rapids between that river and Woodstock, yet there is nothing of sufficient importance to prevent the navigation of the River in this direction by steamboats; which will probably be done, when the resources of the upper country are better known and appreciated, and the boundary line between this Province and the United States, shall have been permanently and equitably decided upon. A town it is thought will then spring up oppo- site the mouth of the Tobique, where there is a fine site for that purpose. 'i w t t t Forty-eight miles above Woodstock, the Rives Tobique 76 empties into the St. John from tho eastward, and extends In a north-east direction about a hundred miles; for seventy of which it is navigable. — Its average width is twenty roda. The Tobique abounds with salmon and trout. At about sixteen milea from its mouth on the right ascending side, the Odell stream falls into it from the southward, extending about twelve or thirteen miles; the land on which however is not fit for far- ming purposes. Twenty-four miles from the mouth of this ri- ver, the Wapskohagan empties into it; and extends also in a southerly direction twenty-five miles. At the mouth of this river, there is considerable intervale; but the highlands, like those near the Odell, are not fit for farming pursuits. Two miles above the Wapskehagan, on the main Tobique river, there is an immense body of Plaister of Paris; one cliflf of which is from eighty to ninety feet in height. It is said to be of a good quality, and is frequently ground and used as a ma- nure on the land, as low down as Woodstock. On the same side and about twenty miles from the mouth of the Tobique, is the Galquack, which is larger than the Wapskehagan, and proceeds about twenty miles in an easterly direction. The land is generally rough, containing large quantities of pine timber; and is therefore unfit for the purposes of agriculture. Above this on the left ascending side, is an insignificant stream called the Two Brooks, but which extends probably fifteen miles into the interior. Sixty miles from its mouth, the To- bique branches off in different directions; forming the Nictaux or Square Forks, from their resemblance to a T. The left- hand branch or Little Tobique, runs in a north-east direction for twenty-five or thirty miles; and terminates in a lake, which is near the head of the Mirimachi River, and is two miles long. The other branch trends in a southerly direction, and is called the Main Tobique. It is probably thirty miles in length, and rises in a large lake, about four miles long. There are other streams intersecting this branch, which all have their sources in Lakes in their neighborhood. Above the Forks, the land is of an inferior quality. Twelve miles from the mouth of the St. John, is what is called the Red Rapids; where a company called the Tobique Mill Company, erected ten saws and a grist mill. The land in that neighbor- 77 )!' hood is tolerably good for agricultural purposes; and there is a small settlement at a short distance above the mills. These mills have recently been abandoned, having proved a decided failure; and the entire concern, which cost '-'i'^!> >!>, •' Near Mr Currier's house, he says, I discovered a valuable iron ore. It is of that variety called compact red hnmitito. It occurs on the hill S. W. from the house, and about half a mile disiant. Its out-cropping may be seen in two different places upon the side and on the summit of the hill. The lower bed runs north 9® E. and dips 85* eastwardly. The upper bed runs north 5° East, and dips also to the eastward. The ore occurs in calciferous slate charged with manganese, its colours being red, green and black. The strata runs N. 16° West. In order to ascertain the extent of this ore, I caused the soil to be removed in several places, and, on finding the boundaries of the principal bed, it was measured and found to be 36 feet wide. The soil overlaying it was covered with an abundance of red sorrel, which served to indicate the position of the ore, and by digging along its margin we always found the hamitite below. The soil is very thin and composed entirely of disinte- grated ore. I measured the limits of the bed as far as I w^d a- ble to expose it, and fuund its length to be 450 feet. It conti- nues into the forest, and is probably connected with the great bed of iron ore which I obs|irved last year upon the Meduxni- keag at Woodstock. The hill at Currier's is more than one hundred feet above the river's level, so that a mine may be ea- sily wrought and drained." Dr. Jackson then makes an estimate of the quantity and va- lue of the bed of ore embraced in the extent to which he traced it; and furnishes sundry stateincnts showing the immense pro- fit, which might be expected from its manufacture on the spot. He goes on to say that " situated so favourably upon the bor- ders of a great river where water-power can be advantageously employed in working the machinery of the blowing apparatus, &c. amid it)terminable forests of hardwood trees which will fur- nish a never failing supply of charcoal, possessing in fact every advantage required; this ore is of incalculable value, and not )St ;'s fmt 81 ojily sufficient to supply all the future inhabitants who may set- tle on the river, but also upon the St. John and the whole Pe- nobscot county. Besides this, it is capable of becoming of na- tional importance, in furnishing supplies of cannon and small arms, and will hereafter become an admirable site for a nation- al foundry. " From the direction in which these beds of iron ore run, it is highly probable that Ihey continue throughout the county, and connect themselves with those which I formerly discovered at Woodstock, N. B., thus passing directly above the United States' military post at Houlton. Should this opinion prove to be correct, such a discovery 11 prove of immense importance to the United States; for it is extremely difficult to carry heavy ordnance to that frontier post, and in case of war it would be almost impossible to furnish a supply of cannon, and the balls required in defence of that fortification. Although war is a great evil, yet it is always the best policy to hold ourselves in readincs to meet such aii exigency, and by such alertness on our part the probability of such an issue will be farther remov- ed; and it is an established maxim that " in time of peace we should prepare for war." The winter succeeding this Report, witnessed the erection of Forts Fail field and Jarvis, to guard the site of the future na- tional magazine of death provided for the lieges of Queen Vic- toria, which the Doctor had pointed out. One hundred and eight years ago also by artifice and misrepresentation, the Co- lotiy of Massachusetts succeeded in wresting from Richard Phillips, Esquire, then Governor of Nova Scotia, that part of h'\3 jurisdiction extending from tlie Kennebec or ancient St. Croix to the Penobscot; since when, the western frontier of Nova Scotia has been constantly yielding to a similar pressure; until those who occupy it, may without timely exertion, find themselves in view of theGulph of St. Lawrence. About sixty-three miles from the mouth of the river, entering from the north, is Beaver Brook; and on the same side, about twelve miles distant, enters the Little Machias. In the vicini- ty of this river is a fine lumbering country, and there is much 1 82 good land, fit for agricultural purposes. Near the head of tlio navigation on this stronm, is n portage of about two miles, which connects it with one of the lakes of Fish River, that flows northward into the St. John at the IVjadawapka settlement. Crossing the Restock, about a hundred rods below the mouth of the Little Machias, is the military road lately formed by the State of Maine; connecting their fortified post at the mouth of ^■'ish River, to which they have given the name of Fort Jarvis, with the road leading from Bangor to Houlton. About three Hiilcs above the Little Machias, the Big Machias coming from Ae west, enters the Aroostook on the same side. This is also a fine lumbering stream, and waters several ridges of good set- tling land. Ai its mouth is a very superior and extensive tract of rich intervale land, composed of alluvial soil, in some places of unknown depth. Upon this tract of intervale, a little below the mouth of the Upper Machi-s is the Oirm of Mr. Dalton, an emigrant from the noighbuuring btate. This is one of the finest spots on the river, and intil recently v/as the first settlement a- bove Currier's, a distance of about twenty miles. Opposite Dalton's house on the rigi:^ ^^ide of the Restock is a high bank, consisting of greywacke slate, which crops out also below the Little JMachias, containing impressions of marine plants, that are considered to have a near connexion with the anthracite coal formation; and which it is thougtit by Dr. Jackson, might be discovered not far from this locality. About eighty-four miles from the mouth of the Aroostook, the Scahapnn enters from the southward and eastward, having its rise in a large lake of that name, situated a few miles west of the Presq-isle, and surrounded by high ridges and hills of hard-wood land. About six miles farther on, we moot the St. Croix or Mcsaidis, entering from the south a fine stream con- sidered to form a principal branch of th« river. At its mouth, v.i the highest setileinent yet found on the Res*ook. This river, as v/oU as the ilig Machias, is very jligible for lumbering oper- ations; and the Aniericans have lately seized upon both, and c;ractcd mill-establishments, under the warrant and protection of the local goveuinicnt of Maine; and for some years past, have been industrioubly occupied, in laying out the adjoining laud into small allctnitnls for settlers; holding out the strongest S3 ii indiucemcntg to a rapid influx of their own population, with jt view to jeopardize, and eventually usurp the right of Great Britain, to this long coveted portion of British soil. In con- junction with those measures, they have assiduously attempted to seduce Her Majesty's subjects, who have emigrated to that quarter, from their natural allog;ance to their sovereign; and to persuade them of the hopelessness of British, protection, and the necessity of quietly submitting to their invaders. , About a hundred miles from the mouth of the Aroostook, at a bend of the river on its right bank, is a piece of cleared in- tervale; which is cultivated for lumbering purposes by Messrs, Webster St Taylor, and is the remotest spot, to which agricul- tural enterprise has yet extended on this river. One hundred and ncven miles up, is a remarkable turn, which has acquired the name of the Ox-bow. Three jniles farther up, the tJmqual- qucs enters from the south; and one hundred and twenty-three miles from the mouth of the Aroostook, the Lapaupeag empties alf-.o from the south, and is a small stream, passing in its course, very near the Sebois Lake, one of the most northerly sources of the Penobscot; from which is a short portage into the La- paupeag, a common route of communication between the Pen- obscot and Ivestook. At about one hundred and twonty-fivc miles, the Mooscluc enters from the northward, having its rise in (he mountainous region already mentioned; visible from commanding points, at a distance of forty or fifty miles. Ten miles further up, we reach the Forks of the Aroostook, formed by the Monasawgun, (flowing from the north-west and rising amongst extensive highland ridges, forming a beautiful tract of country for settlement) and the Milnakak, from the south- ward and westward. The former takes its rise in the south- erly part of the samo ipountainous region, in which the Mooseluc has its sources; and which separates these from the waters of the Allegash. The INlilnukak rises in the hi^y^hlands, which send down from their southern margin, the eastern tri- butaries of tho Penobscot; and lie nearly due north, at a dis- tance of about twenty miles from tho well known Mount Kfaadn, I •»!., • .-, .1 I <:l^:V- «J if.i- ,Ll;' CHAPTER XVi.":"^'^ "' From the mouth of the Aroostook, the St. John extends northwardly a distance of from sixteen to eighteen miles to the Grand Falls, which here effectually intercept the naviga- tion of the River. For the following description of these Falls, I am indebted to the author of the JVolilia of JVeiv Brunswick, from which work I have already made another extract. " Here the channel of the River," he says> "is broken by a chain of rocks which runs across the river and produces a tremendous fall more than forty feet perpendicular, down which the water of the entire river rushes with resistless impetuosity. The river just above the cataract makes a short bend or nearly a right angle, forming a small bay a fow rods above the preci- pice, in which there is an eddy, which makes it a safe land- ing place, although very near the main fall, vt^here the canoes, &c. pass with the greatest safety. Immediately below this bay the river suddenly contracts — a point of rocks projects from the western shore, and narrows the channel to the width of a few rods. The waters thus pent up, sweep over the rugged bottom with great velocity. Just before they reach the main precipice, they rush down a descent of some feet, and rebound in foam from a bed of rocks on the verge of the fall. They are then precipitated down the p'^rpcndiculur cliffs into tiic abyss below, which \h studded with rocks that nearly choke the pas- sage, leaving only a small opening in the centre, through which the water, after whirling for some time in the basin, rushes with tremendous impetuosity, sweeping through a bro- ken rocky channel, and a HuccJ bi » i: M CONCLUDING CHAPTER. Hlh- ^M,-*tl % : i\ LT f< I . SiNcS the foregoing pages were put to press, I have had an opportunity of visiting]the village of Carleton, opposite the city of St. John,' where there is an episcopal church and dissenting meeting-house; a clergyman of the former establishment resi- ding in the place. A respectable boarding-house for the ac- commodation of travellers, has recently been opened at Carle- ton, which promises to be of much utility. It is kept by Mr. Pendleton who formerly resided on the St. Andrews road, and gave very general satisfaction. This establishment will be a great convenience to persons arriving late in the day from the County of Charlotte, or the upper parts of the Province; and men of business will find it a comfortable residence for them- selves and the female portion of their families, wh may ac- company th'^ra, during their stay in St. John; as <>ossible for a foot passenger to cross a bridge over the harbour iii less time. Per- sons who intend taking the St. Andrews coach or the stage up the River, would find it much to their advantage, to cross over to Carleton on the preceding evening, and there join the coach on the following morning. In short, I look upon the establish- ment of Mr, Pendleton, as so decidedly a public convenience, that it will receive commensurate patronage and support. There is a house at Magaguadavic, which moro properly 91 an I city fting resi- ac- rle- Mr. and )e a the and Jem- ac- am- ain- the should be called St. George, that I am also desirous of recom- mending to travellers, who may visit thut qu&rter; and which has been opened during the past year by Mrs. Campbell, but which at present does not meet with that encourngement that it merits. To the romantic scenery and Falls at this place, I have already adverted, in the former part of this work. Persons taking the route to St. Andrews therefore, should if they have time remain a day at this place, and make an excursion to the Upper Falls as they are termed, which are situated only seven miles from the village. The ride from St. George to St An- drews, is twenty-one miles; the road winding around the head of the Bay, among numerous hills, and crossing the Diggede- guash and Backabec rivers, over substantial bridges. [ have recently passed through these places, and extended my tour to St. Stephens. On former occasions, I crossed the ferry between St. Andrews and Uobinstown, and took advan- tage of the Stage coach which runs between Eastport and Ca» liuii, opposite St. Stephens; but in the present instance, I coa- tinusd on the British side of the River, passing round Oak Bay. The road in this direction, is welt settled the whole distance, which is twenty-one miles; and on this line are a number of I- rish families, who located not many years since on land that the oviginal settlers had abandoned; and who, although they came to the place in extreme indigence, have acquired considerable property, and are now in good circumstances. The houses oa this road are extremely neat and comfortable, being built in a manner resembling those on the opposite side of the river. I While passing throuf^h this part of the Province, I learnt with regret, that severa families are about emigrating to the Canadas, who are at prt nt the owners and occupants of pro- ductive farms; which they are endeavouring to dispose of at a reduced rate. — Thus reali ij; the truth of the remark, that a want of contentment is one o'* the greatest preventives of suc- cess in life. They ma find elsewhere a milder climate, and more prolific soil; but these wil >e counterbalanced by disad- vantages, which they do no experience in this Province; andat most they can only acquire compet(ince in a land where thoy IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) t ^ ^/ 4r K^ C^A ^ 4^ 1.0 LI l^|2£ 12.5 lii Uii 12.2 £ US. 12.0 u HI* !:25|HM|i6 6" Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ »; •N? fV ;V <^ 23 WIST MAIN STMIT WIBSTIR,N.Y. MSM (71«)t7a-4S03 5^ <^ "^rV 92 will be strangei"^, in exchange fdr that which they Onjoy in a country where is essentially their home. ■■Ill > im-j ^i,^>''', is.. ,,. ' Twelve miles from St. Andrews, on the road to St. Stephens, at the bridge over the Waughweig river, the new road between the former placiB and Fredericton turns off to the right. I led tSt. Andrews about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, and arrived at St. Stephens late in the aflernoen, the road being very hilly. During the evening I crossed over to Calais; and the next morning returned seven miles on the St. Andrews road, as far 9.B Cotterell's, when I struck into another which comes out nt his pl^ace, called the Board road, that has been used for lum- bering purposes. Afler proceeding four miles, I turned to the right for a quarter of a mile, and another turn to the left for a few roods, brought me into the Fredericton road; and I reach- ed Brockway's about noon, forty-five miles from that place; a- bout eleven of which near the Harvey settlement, are still in an unfinished state, but which will be completed during the ensuing summer. • .« . Passing through this settlement in a hurried manner, I had but little time for observation. I saw sufficient however to sa- tisfy me, of the very great improvements that its inhabitants have effected within a short time. There are extensive clear- ings; and every whero the indications of comfort and content- ment. This settlement was commenced in 1837, the individu- als composing^ it receiving advances from government, which they have nearly repaid by labour upon the main road to St. Andrews. And as a proof of what may be effected by industry and attention, besides labouring on the road, these people suc- ceeded in raising during the last year on twenty-seven allot- Jner'ts, from 184 acres which were under crop 13 tons of hay, S037 bushels of oats, 192 bushels of wheat, 436 bushels of barley and other grain, 678 1 bushels potatoes, 813 bushels tur- nips, and twenty bushels of other roots. They have also at present fifteen cows, seven horses, four oxen, seven sheep and nineteen swine; and there are besides three hundred and twen- ty-seven acres chopped, which will be in crop next year; ex- clusive of what I saw that had been chopped during the present winter. From this village to Fredericton is twenty-five miles; "^S^f im a ms, reeii led ^ved illy, lext far at 93 the road passing through the Hanwcll settlement, Avhich in smaller than the other; but where the people are also doing well. This part of the road is in very good condition, and af- fords a pleasant drive. ■ i; : .- ..., . ,.;; This line of road is nearly level for its whole extent — at least that part of it which I travelled, being upwards of fifty miles; and makes the distance between Fredericton and St. Andrews seventy seven. But were it continued direct to St. Stephens, the distance between that village and the capital, would be sixty-five. Here therefore should be the place of de- posit for the American mails going and returning; that for Fre- dericton should be received and despatched by this line of road; and could thus be carried through in one day, instead of occu- pying three, as is the case at present; and those for St. John and other places in that direction — or returning from that quarter, — should be sent on to St. Andrews from St. Stephens, or received through the former place ; by which the risk attend- ing the crossing an exposed Ferry at Robinstown would be a- voided; there being a substantial bridge between Calais and St. Stephens. , li ;U.'f->U' . ' •.. . I : • ' '■•."^ •. ...I.' !;.,".:m.':.. -.i. ■•-". H- I HAVE thus in a brief but I trust succinct manner, made the reader acquainted with the more important sections of the Pro- vince; particularly those connected with the St. John, from its source in the Disputed Territory, to the point at which it emp- ties into the Bay of Fundy. I heve also been enabled to add to this work, a Map prepared by Mr; Wilkinson, and litho- graphed by Mr. O'Connor of the Crown Land Office, executed by permission of the Hon. J. S. Saunders, the Commissioner; and I should bo extremely remiss and unthankful, were i to omit availing myself of the present opportunity to express my acknowledgements to that gentleman, for the prompt and hand- some manner, in which ho tendered me any assistance in his power in aid of my present undertaking; and also to Mr. Wil- kinson, whose extensive and minute acquaintance with the * w 94 Aroostook country, has enabled mo to lay before the public, some very valuable information, with reference to the territory in dispute between the two countries. To Mr. Inches of the same department, from whose general knowledge of the Pro- vince, I derived much assistance, I also feel greatly indebted. And to the several individuals, from whom I received replies to the circulars transmitted last autumn, I beg to express my thanks for the statements they returned. I cannot conclude without making a few remarks, first as re- lates to the characteristics of the Province generally, — and se- condly, as to those persons who may be desirous of emigrating to New Brunswick. With reference to the Province then, the climate is healthful; — there are no periodical diseases: and when the constitution has not been injured by exposure or ex- cess, individuals usually attain a good old age. Every where the purest water is abundant, — a luxury unknown in many parts of Upper Canada; and it will be perceived that numerous navi- gable streams intersect the country, offering every facility for the conveyance of produce to market. Throughout the Pro- vince the utmost tranquillity prevails; and during seven or eight years in which I have traversed these colonies alone on horse- back or on foot, and during all hours both of night and day; no wild beast has disturbedmy sense of security, or ill-disposed person crossed my path. And when I have entered the houses of the inhabitants, either from weariness or hunger, I have al- ways met with a hospitable welcome, and the most confiding frankness. The utmost toleration every where prevails, with reference to religion; the roads are numerous and in good con- dition; and the Legislature annually votes large sums for their improvement or the opening of new lines, of communication. — In fact the people are not aware how well off and happy they are. As to those persons to whom New Brvmswick ofiers induce- ments for settlement, I would say, that a man of industrious and sober habits, ean nowhere go amiss. My object originally in preparing the present account of the St. John, was to benefit my fellow-countrymen in Nova Scotia, many of whom are wast- ing their energies and their lives, upon a barren and unproduc- tive soil. Since then however, I have been more fully impress- n fblic, [itory If the IPfO- )ted. |es to my 90 6tl with the importance of diverting the tide of emigration to this Province, and of inducing a large proportion of those who annually pass through New Brunswick, and which this year may be estimated at upwards of seven thousand persons, to stop and embrace the advantages which it holds forth: rather than pro- ceed to a foreign country, in which the people are less happy and iess free, than are those who reside under the mild and equitable' government of Great Britain, as exercised in these colonies. In pursuing this object, I have gone into particu- lars, that have extended this work beyond the limits, which I had at first proposed. Tnere are various parts of the Province however, (o which I could not possibly advert; and which having been long settled, may not offer inducements to the man of property; but where the industrious immigrant, whether male or female, will be cer- tain of obtaining employment, provided an exorbitant rate of wages is not demanded. And I would caution persons from the old country, particularly those who arrive from Ireland, a- gainst taking the advice of many of their countrymen here, who are interested in the continuance of the present high price of labour, by which the agricultural advancement of the country is sensibly retarded; and which can only be kept up by a scar- city of labourers. These people mislead new comers, by er- roneous statements with reference to the superior advantages of the United States; and induce them to require that extrava- gant remuneration for their services, which they well know, will not be granted. If ftingle mon coming here, would be content with from £20 to £Q5 per annum, exclusive of their board and lodging, and would hire out for two or three years, they would soon acquire the requisite sum to procure a hundred acres of land, which is a sufficient quantity for any man; and in the mean time, would become acquainted with the mode of clearing and working land. And were youths and females of eighteen or nineteen years of age, to come to this country and engage themselves in this way, they would be certain of succeeding to comfort and inde- pendence, — would become useful members of society; — and would ftrengthcn those ties, by which this colony is already 4 A f i , n'. 96 nttncbcd to the Parent State, and render it secure against f«- rci^n aggression. I have now completed the task which I prescribed for my- self, when I commenced this publication, — and which has grown upon my hands. There will probably be some unim- portant errors, the result of haste rather than inattention or design. — In the main however, it will be found correct; and the information it contains, may be depended upon. I cannot therefore but indulge the hope, that its contents will be dis- seminated throughout the British Isles and in the neighboring Province of Nova Scotia. To the inhabitants of New Bruns- wick this work must also be acceptable, as making them more fully acquainted with the valuable country in the vicinity of the St. John; and should the present unpretending undertak- ing be deemed worthy of public patronage and approbation, I shall be encouraged to commence a more full and ample ac- count of the Province, and to publish it on a more extensive scale. EDMUND WARD. Fredericton, January 26, 1311. \ ^- A'... Errata. — Vagc lU, 2d par. 1st lino, for rivers read river, and for arc read ia. P. 13, 7tb Hne, for the read siich. P. 15, 8th line, for on the northwest, read to tlie northward. P. 17, last line but one, I'or tvhere it meets, read and receives. P. 38, lllh line from the bottom, for five read seven. P. 47, 3d line from the bottom, lor its left read his left. P. 48, 13th line from the bottom, and j). C8, first lino, for J^orl/uimpton, read Soutlmmpton. P. 77, 13tli line irom tlie toj», for same read opposite. r. 85, 17lh line from the bottom, for northward and ivcstwanl, road north wtuil and eastward. fw ny- has im- i or and mot dis- •ing ins- lore tak- ac- sivo RD. »r arc 7)1 the here it : read P. 48, , read jiosile. , read MVl'..