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V-

' . ' • '# (

NARRATIVE

THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS

IN THE YEAR 18454,

AND TO

OJIEGON AND NOIITII CALIFORNIA

IN TFTE YEARS 18l:j-4.i.

BREVET CAPTAIN J. ('. FHEMONT.

or THE TOPOGn.\Piiir i, F.\aiNRKiti»,

UNDER ™k oKUKns OP coK. .. ,. .„kkt. ai.Kr or thk roro.n umixa. nunr.At

REPRINTED FROM tHK OFFICIAI. COPT.

NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 200 UllOADWAY.

PIlILADKhPnrA:

GEO. S. APPLETON, 148 CHESNUT STREET.

CINCINNATI :-DERBV. BilADLEY, t COMPANY. 113 MAIN STREET

1846.

PREFATORY NOTICE.

The immense ro^ioii west of the Rocky Mountains, cxlcmiing to the
P.irific ocean, and I)oiiMiled by the Russian frontier on the north, and CaU-
furnin on the south, now attracts so much of popular regard, and is com-
iniiiirlod widi so many important national interests, that an accurate and
niimito ac(|uaintance with the general to])ic is essential to every American
cili/.L-n.

Several explorinif tours of the western portion of our continent, within the
geographical boundaries of the wilds now commonly known by the title,
()uF.(i(jN, have taken place during the present century. President Jefferson,
in 1804, directed the first scrutiny in that country under the superintendence
of Messrs. Lewis and Clarke, who devoted the larger part of three years to
tiio examination of those trackless forests, and who were the pioneers of
the movements which are now extending the limits of civilization, where
Indians, or deer, bears, or buffaloes only roamed. The second expedition by
Major Pike to survey the West, forty years ago, was restricted to the eastern
side of the Rocky Mountains, and consequently communicated little direct
intelligence concerning the lands, the possession of which is now the subject
of controversy between the United States and Britain.

The other subsequent travellers in the western territory confined their
researches within the country through which the Upper Mississippi and
Missouri flow; and therefore imparted no information of any importance
cuiiceriiing the Oregon lands, rivers, and other topics of public interest.

J)uring several years, however, from 1833 to 1838, Mr. Nicollet, a scien-
tific tourist, explored a very extensive portion of the western country beyond
the northern branches of the Mississippi. At the close of his amateur travels,
the government of the United States engaged him to repeat his journey in
another region ; and Captain Fremont was united with him to assist his
efforts. After an absence of two seasons, they returned and e.xhibitcd the

27'; vi)

PUKKATOHY NOTKI-:

rcnitlt of llu'ir (Iiscovohi-h niul iiHtrononiioil oliMrrviitioiiii iiiul lopo^rnphirnl
miinciiHiircnu'iilH tt> tlir Kovoriunciil at ^Vaslllll^loll.

It luMi)^ ili'niraltli' lor the I''eii«-ial autlionticri to lircotiio (iiliy a('(|ii.-iiiilr(i
wiili ||i(« Mtati! of tlir territory between the !»nnlliern wco^rapliieal l»oiwularv
t'f llin riiitetl Slalt'H and the Hot ky MomilaiiiH, around the head-waters ;if
the Missouri, Captain Fremont was appointed to superintend that explorin:<
Ifiir. 'rhiM enlerjirisuiK and »<*ieiiti(ie traveller in now ahnent on his f/iiid
expedition to enlarge our ar(|u;ui)laii('*! with llu! western uninhahited ilistriels.

The ciiMuin:^ narratives include th(^ Ki:i>oUT8 of the two tours whit h have
already l>een made l)y Caplain I'renjonl, as they were pri'senled to ihe Con-
gress of the I'nited tStates, and urigitially puMished liy their eonunund ; cx«
eluding only the ]iortions which nro altogether asiionomieal, seienlifie, and

pluiosophual, and llieretore not adapted tor gr'ueral ulilMy. ( aplam rremont
Htates that (he whoh; of the ilelineations hoth *' in the narmlive anil in the
ma])s," which constitute the uflleial publication, txrv. " the result tif jtositivc
observation." From a survey of the researches thus presented, it appt'ars,
that the entire nutp of Oregon lias been amply drawn tail, so far as at present
IS re(|iusitj! for all tin' purposes of geographical iu'juirv and national arrange-
ment. ^^'ith these claims on |)idilic attention, and the deep interest which
the subjeel itself now olb is, iliiit authenlic edition of C'ajilain Fremont's
e.vlensive and prolrac!' d researches in the western dominions of the United
f-'lates, is c( i.(:(!cnl!y n con.meiidetl to the peru.sul iT our fclluw-cilizcnii.
Nfcw \ unK, Surrmkri II, HT*.

«i;

A RKPORT

AN EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY

LTina »iiTw«iiii TUB

MISSOURI RIVER AND Till] ROCKY MOrMWINS,

ON Till Lim or
THE KANSAS AND (HIKAT PLATTE RIVERS.

VV'asiiincto.n, March 1, 1813.

To Colonel J. J. AllKKT,

Chu-f of ihf Corji^ »f Top. Kmr :
Sir : Ajjr(!('iil)ly to yniir itnlcrH to explore
anil rc[)ort niMni tlio country Iwtwccn llio
frontier)* of Miflnonri aiitl the Soiiili Vnt"* in
the Iliie.ky nioiiiitaiii.-', ami on the line of the
Kansas and (Jreat IMiitte rivers, I tn't out
from VVacliinpton city on the 'Jil day of May,
IS 13, anti arrived at St. EouiH, hy way of
New York, the UlM of .May, where the nc-
ccsHary |)re|>arations uereconipleteil, and the
expedition commenced. I proceeded in a
«teani!)oat to CliotiteanV landing, alimit four
iiundred miles l)y water from St. I.oui!<, and
near the mouth of the Kansas river, whence
we proceeded twelve miles to Mr. Cyprian
Chouteau's tradinjj house, where we com-
pleted our linal arrangements for the expedi-
tion.

Had weather, which interfered with a.xtro-
uojnical oliscrvationo, delayed us neveral
Jays in the early part of June at this poht,
which is on the ri^rht bank of the Kan^aH
river, ahont ten miles almvc the mouth, and
six iK-yond the western boundary of Missouri.
The sky cleared off at length, and we were
enabled to determine our position, in hmgi-
tude nU' 2.'i'4fi", and latitude 39* 6' 67 .
The elevation alMJvo the sea is about 700
feet. Our camp, in the meantime, presented
an animated and bustlin)r scene. All were
busily occupied in completinjj the necessary
arrun<rements for our campaign in the wil-
derness, and profiting by this short delay on
the verpe of civilisation, to provide ourselves
with allthe little essentials to comfort in the
nomadic life we were to lead for the ensuing
summer months. Gradually, however, every-
thing — the materiel of the camp, men,
horses, and even mules — settled into its
place, and by the 10th we were ready to de-

part ; but, before we mount our horses. I will
pive a short description of the [arty with
which I performed this service,

I had collected in the neighborhood of St.
I/niis twenty-one men, principally Crtole and
Canadian loi/atrcur!', who had Ih'coiim' fami-
liar with prairie life in the service of the liir
companies in the Indian country. Mr.
Charles I'reuss, a native of (Germany, was
my assistant in the tonogni|ihical part of the
survey. I.. Mnxweil, of Kaskaskia, had
k'en eii|:aged as hunter, and Christopher
Carson (more familiarly known, for his ex-
ploits in the mountains, as Kit Carson) was
our puido. The persons engaged in St.
liOiiis were :

Clement Lambert, J. B. I/Esperance, J.
n. Ix;f4vre, IJenjamin I'ofra, Louis (Jonin,
J. B. Diimis, Basil Lajeunesse, I''rH!i9riiij
TeHsic, Benjamin Cadotte, Joseph Ciiiiienf,
Daniel Simonds, Leonard Benoit, Michel
Morlvi Baptistc Bcrnier, Ilonore Ayot.Fran-
9ois liatulippe, Franfois Badeau, Louis Me-
nard, Josepn Ruelle, Moise Chardonnais,
Augustc Janisse, Raphael Proue.

In addition to these, Henry Brant, son of
Col. J. B. Brant, of St. I^uis, a young man
of nineteen years of age, and Randolph, a
lively Iwy of twelve, son of the Hon. Thomas
II. fienton, accompanied me, for the develop-
ment of mind and body which such an expe-
dition would give. We were all well armed
and mounted, with the exception of eight
men, who conducted as many carts, in which
were packed our stores, with the baggage
and instruments, and which were each drawn
by two mules. A few loose horses, and four
oxen, which had been added to our stock of
provisions, completed the train. We set out
on the morning of the lOlh, which happened
to be Friday — a circumstance which our men
did not fail to remember and recall during

CAIT. FRKMONTH NAKU.VMVK.

[1B49.

th<> linrilKliliiD mill vexullnnii of tlic rnmilni;

{•iirtiry. Kir ('y|irian CliHuirnti, to v\Ii<)m>
iiiiliiofi, iliiriiiK uiir nlay Ht Iiin hi>iiM>, we
v^iTt' iiiiirh iiidrlilotl, nrninipniiii'il uh nrviTiil
milt'M on our way, iiiilil w«> iimI hii liitlian,
wlioni lii< liail «>iitrn([iMl lo cniuliKt im in Iht'
lifft lliirty or lorty uiiU'n, wli»<n' lie wrni U>
('<<n>i;;ii im to llii< oci'nn of pmiri«>, uliit-li, ui<
uiTi' Inlil, »tri'tt-lii*«l without inli'rrii|ili<in al-
liio"! In iliv tmH<> of llio Uorky mmintninii.

I'riini tli<> Im'II of wimnI w' irli lioiilcrM tlit>
KnhfiiK, in wliicli wi' linil puxHnl vrvcml
('iiiHl-liHikin^ Inilion fHrnii*, wo hiulili-nly
t-nirrijiMl on tin* prairim, which riTi'ivrd uii
lit ihr (iiitfiOt with Home of thr r Mrikiiiff cha-
rHrifrii«tic(« ; for hrri' nnd thire riK!o iin In-
iliim, nnil hut a fuw mili'i ilihtant hi>ii\ v rloudu
of Hnniki> were rollinif ln'fore ihi* (iro. In
ulmiit li'n niilei* wo ronohod tho Santa Fe
nmd, nU>uf uliicli wo cuntiiiuod for a hhort
tinn', and oncani|i(>d early on a Hinall vtroiim ;
l.avini; tnivi'llod aliuut rlrvrn niilcH. Dur*
in^r our journey, it waH the cuhlmmry prac-
tico to rncump an hour or two iKfuro Nuncot,
wlion tho oartH woro dinposod k) an to form
a Hort of Imrrioade around a circlo fi mo
eighty yardij in dianu-tor. Tho tontrt wire

fiitrlit'd, nnd the horROH hobhlod luul turiu-d
iKMO to (rrazo ; niui hut a fow minnton
olapxod Ix'foro iho ctK>k» of tho moHnOi*, of
which thor» four, were hunily t ii^>nj;od

in preparing veiiiiij,' mini. At nijjht-

fall, the horson, . iule^, and oxen, were driven
in and picketed — that in, secured hy a halter,
of which one end wan tiod to a funall htoel-
filiod picket, and driv'Mi into the |;round ; Iho
halter leiu}.' twenty or thirty foot long, which
eiiiiMcil liicni to obtain a little fiNMi during'
the ui(,'lit. When we had reached a part uf
the I'ountry whore such a precaution became
necessary, the carts lieing regularly arnin{jed
fur defending; the camp, guard was mounted
at eight o'clock, consisting of three men,
who were relieved every two hours; the
morning watch being horse guard for the day.
At davbreak, tho camp was roused, the ani-
mals turned loose to graze, and breakfast
generally over betw cen six and seven o'clock,
when we resumed our march, making regu-
larly a halt at noon for one or two hours.
Such was usually the order of the day, ex-
cept when accident of country forced a varia-
tion ; which, liowevcr, happened but rarely.
We travelled the next day along the Santa
Fe road, which we lell in the aflcrnoon, and
encamped late Ik tlie evening on a small
creek, called by the Indians Mishmagwi.
Just as wc arrived at camp, one of the iiorses
set off at full speed on his return, and was
followed by others. Several men were sent
in pursuit, and returned with the fugitives
about midnight, with the exception of one
man, who did not make his ap|)camiice until
morning. He had lost his way in the dark-

neiiii of the utf>\A, nnd ulcpt on the prairli>.
Shortly Hitrr niidni(;hl it het:nn to ruin I ea-
\ily, Hiid, an our lenlMWore of light hmiI thin
cloth, they ollired but little oUlriiilion In
rain ; we w ore all w ell noaked, and (;liid w hen
mirninir came. We hud u rainy inuii h i n
Iho I'.'lh, but the wenlhir grow tine mm iho
day advanced. N\'oencam|i«'d in a rniiiirLi-
blv Ixniitiful oituation on tiio KHn!<ur< bintls,
which coiiimanded a line \iow ol iho riser
Milley, hero fiom throe to lour iiiiUs wide.
The centrni |Mirtion was occupied hy a broad
bolt o| hiavy tiiul)4>r, and nearer Iho hills tho
|,rnirioH wore of tho richeiit verdure. One
of Iho o\. n was ' H'ed here for foinl.

Wo n ached the li>i>4 of the Kansaa lato
in Iho aftpriuon of the Mth, where the river
waw two hundred and thirty yards wide, and
coiiiiiieiiced imiiiediately prenarulionH for
crushing. I had expect* d to find tho river
fordublo . hut it had i>een swollen hy the late
rains, and was swooping bv with an angry
current, \ellow nnd liirbid as the Mit>souri.
('|i to this point, the road wo had travelled
was a remarkably ("no one, well henton, and
level — the usual roud of a prairie country.
Ily our route, the ford was one hundred
luili's Inin the mouth of tho Kansas rive .
SeMHil mounted men lid the way into the
stream, lo swim ncrons. Tiie animals were
driven in after them, and in a few miHutes
nil had reached the opposite bank in safety,
with the exception of the oxen, which swam
some distance down the river, nnd, returning
to the right bank, were not got over until
the next morning. In the meantime, the
cart.s liad been unloaded anddismnntlod, nnd
an India-rubber boat, which I liad brought
with me for the survey of the I'lntle river,
placed in tlie water. The boit was twenty
feet long and five broad, a -id on it were
placed the bo<ly and wheels of t c:iit, with
the load belonging to it, and three men with
|iaddlcs.

The velocity of the current, and the incon-
venient freight, rendering it ditlicult to bu
managed, Basil linjounesse, one of our best
swimmers, took in his teeth a line attached
to the boat, and swam aliead in order to
roach a footing as soon as possible, and as-
sist in drawing her over. In this manner,
six passages Imd Leon successfully made,
and as many carts with their contents, nnd
a greater portion of the party, deposited on
the left bank ; but night was draw ing near,
and, in our anxiety to have all over before
the darkness cloired in, I put upon the boat
the remaining two carts, with their accom-
panying load. The man at the helm was
timid on water, and, in his alarm, capsized
the boat. Carts, barrels, boxes, and bales,
were in a moment floating down the current ;
but all the men who were on tlie shore
jumued into the water, without stopping to

).l|
I.

s'l

t;l

[1849.

Ilio pr«irii».

to rum lea.

k'lil mimI liiiii

r'lriKlinn Id

> IIIUkIi III
tilK* IIH till'

I rt iiiiirl.i.
>n»UK lilnlfh,
I'l till- river
null H w iilo.
I liy H brtiiij
i>«> IiiIIh tlic
^••ro. Olio

VIIIIHIIM llto

■p the rivrr
' wide, and
utiiiiiK for
I tin' river
liyilir late
'in iinjfry
' MibHuuri.
I truvrllcd
OHtiMi, and
f rountry.
s liiindri-d
fAn rivf .
y into tlie
rimlR wore
V iniNiitrs
in rafety,
it'll Hwain
rolnrninjr
•vor until
timp, tliti
itl<'d, nnd

luoiiglit
llo rivor,

tvvj'iity
it were
It, Willi
icii with

e incon-
It to bo
our best
It Inched
rder to

Ullll UH-

unnner,

made,
Im, and
iled on
e near,

before
le boat
nccom-
in was .

p.-'ized

bit leu,
"rent ;

f'hore
intr to

18 IJ J

r.M'T FIIK MONT'S NAIIU ATIVK.

Il.ink if they roiild Mwim, iiml iilmont every-
thing -even hiM y artuteH, mirh an U^n»
tmlliinl — vv.iit reciisert'd.

Twn iif the riH'ii, Mill) I'ouiil not xwiin,
Clinic liiiii iM'ili;; drowned, mid nil the Nii^iir
bpton^ill^ to Olio of the iiiCHiteM wnNted ilK
aweeli* nil the iiiiiddy watern ; but our hea-
vicMl hMH vvui it linjr of euU'ee, which cmi-
taiui'd iieiirly till our proviMimi. It wan a
hifM wiiiili iiiiiic but n traveller in :i Mtran(;e
and iuh<»-|iitiihle cDiiiitry run a|i|ireciate ;iiiid
ot'li'ii urtiTvviirii, v\heii exci-Miiive toil mid loiiu
iii-irchin^ had (ivercontu iia with ruti;;u(> and
weiiriiicHH, we reiiieinlN'rcd and nuMirtied
over our Ihih in the Kivnsii!*. Cnrxoii nnd
Muxwcll Imd been much in tho water yen-
tt'rdiiy, and JHith, in coiitei|ucnce, were lakeii
ill. The roriuer conlinuiu}; no, I remained
ill cituip. A nuinlirr of Kmii<art ludiann
vinited uh to-thiy. (iiiin^ up to one ol the

1»rr»ii|»H who were tcattered niniui;; tho trecu,
found ono tiillini; on the (rrouiid, iimonir
Hiuiie of the men, gnively nnd thiently !«|H>nk-
ing French, with an much fitcilily and at.
little embarniHHiuent uk any of my own
|)arty, who were ■early all ol'French oriirin.
On nil nidoa wan heard the Ntrnn(;c,' Vnn-
gnngu of hid own people, wild, and liannon-
izing well with their appearance. I liHtnied
to him tor some time with feclingH of strange
curiosity and intorent. He wan now appa-
rently ihirty-fivo years of ago ; and, on in-
(|uiry, I learned that he had been at St. Ixiuin
when a boy, ami there had learned the
Freiuli language. From one of the Indian
women I obtained a fine cow and calf in ex-
change for a yoke of oxen. Several of them
brought UH vegctablen, pumpkins, onions,
beand, and lettuce. One of them brought
butter, and from a lialf-breed near the river
I had the good fortune to obtain Home twenty
or thirty iMiuiida of cotFee. The dense tim-
ber in which we had encamped interfered
with aHtronomical observations, and our wet
and damaged Ftores re(|uired exposure to the
Bin. Accordingly,thc tents were Btruck early
the ne.\t morning, and, leaving camp at six
o'clock, we moved about seven miles up the
river, to a handsome, open prairie, some
twenty feet above the water, where the fhie

frrasa afforded a luxurious repast to our
lorses.

During the day we occupied ourselves in
making astronomical observations, in order
to lay down the country to this place ; it
being our custom to keep up our map regu-
larly in the field, which we found attended
with many advantages. Tlie men were
kept busy in drying tlie provisions, painting
the cart covers, and otherwise completing
our C'luipagc, until the afternoon, when pow-
der '<ts distributed to them, and they spent
8o hours in firing at a mark. We were
u<i\ r &irly in the Indian country, and it be-

gnn to lie tiiiie to prepare for tlie chaiicea of
the wilderne»«,

t'riiliii/.Jiiiir 17. — Till' weather yesterday
had not |M'riniUed uh Io miike the nlixervit-
lioiiM I vva>« dcHiroiiM to oblain litre, and I
therefore did not move to-day. The people
continued their target tiring In the fleep
hank of the river here, were iieNtx nl iniiii-
meralile awallowo, into mie of vvbu h a Jnruo
prairie nnnke had got about half Iiih hoirv,
mid wan occupied in eating the young bird*.
The old oiu'H were ttying about in greiit dii«<
treuM, darting at him, and vainly endeavoring
to<lrive him off. A shot wounded him, and,
being killed, he was cut ojien, and eighteen
young Hwallows were fouml in bin Uidy. A
Hudden storm, that biirht upm us in llie af-
ternoon, cleared away in a brilliunl minset,
followed by a clear night, which enabled us
to determine our position in longitude iKt^
as 05", and in latitude lit) li(>' 40

A party of emigrants to the Coliimbiii
river, umfer tho charge of J)r. While, an
agent of the (iovernment in Oregon Terri-
tory, were alwut three weeks in advance of
UH. They consisted of men, women, and
children. There were sixty-four min, and
sixteen or seventeen funiilics. They had a
considerable number of cattle, and were
trans|Hirting their household furniture in
large heavy wagons. I understood that ihero
had l)een much sickness among them, and
that they had lost several children. One of
the party who had lost his child, and whose
wife was very ill, had left them aUnit ono
hundred miles hence on the prairies; and as
a hunter, who had accompanied them, visited
our camp this evening, we availed oiimdvea
of his return to the States to write to our
friends.

The morning of the 18tli was very unplea-
sant. A tine rain was falling, will', cold
wind from the north, and mists made the
river hills look dark and gloomy. We left
our camp at seven, journeying along the foot
of the hills which border the Kansas valley,
generally about three miles wide, and ex-
tremely rich. We halted for dinner, after a
march of alwut thirteen miles, on the banks
of one of the many little tributaries to the
Kansas, which look like trenches in the
prairie, and are usually well timbered. Af-
ter crossing this stream, I rode ofT some
miles to the led, attracted by the appearance
of a cluster of huts near the mouth of the
Vermillion. It was a large but deserted Kan-
sas village, scattered in an open wood, along
the margin of the stream, on a spot chosen
with the customary Indian fondness for beauty
of scenery. The I'awnecs had attacked it
in the early spring. Some of the houses
were burnt, and others blackened with
smoke, and weeds were already getting pos-
session of the cleared places. Riding up

CAPT KKKMONTS N.MIRAIIVK

flMt.

Dm Vcnnilllon riv«»f, I rpn.liwl ihr fonl in
llm<' «n mt'H tin' (•i»rt>', ntnl, rntfiHff, en-
rKmiN'il oil It* wi»<»l<Tn iti(li» Tin' w«'»lln'r
rnnliniM'il ri)ol, llic llicrnn>iin*ti'r Wmg tliU
pvrnmif «• low n* l!»^; l>iH lli«> r\^^\^ w»»
oiilticii'iitlv rlour liir i»»'tri>ne>niiial olworvt-
lii»n«, wliirli pliiri'il im in liiitilnilf (Ml" or
07 . iii).l lntitii.li. -Mf l.V l!»". At nun-fl.
till' lHiriiiiii-'i>r wa* ill 'JK.HI.V tin mioiiiolpr
« I".

W)' liri'iikiNnttHl till* next morning ut Imlt'
]in>-t I'lM', 'Mill Ifll iiiir i>nruMi|iiiM'iit rariy.
Till' iimniiiiK wnn nml, tin' tin rmoiiirliT
lieiiitf ut Ift*. Qiiitliii;: tlii' riMT l>Htli<iii.
the riijiil run alonj; llu' ii|il.nnl>*, i>vit n r<i||-
Inu roiiiiti y, (fiMUTtiliy in vii'W of tin' Kiin-
pntt from lijjlit to Iwflvc inilt'H i!i->tiiiit.
IVlMny liiri;i' UhiMck, oI » M-ry rompnrt
«:iii(lntoni', (if vnrioii* uliuiicn of ml, foiiic of
llinii four or livi' loim in wri^'lit, wi-ro fiiil-
trri-il uUmu tin' liilU; iiml mnny ln-iiiitiful
lilnnli in II.>wiT, niiioiiir wliicli the ami>rf>hniiij'o!iiif tin- iiiont rriiiimi>n willow
of the iouniry. W«' 'riivclli'l nli.i ircn
inili'K, mill |iiiclii'<l our tci.ti iit ivniiii'; on
tlin lit ail SMitcr^ ol II ffiii:ill nit'k. iiiu n* iiily
ilry,l)i:l liiivin;;in itn !hi| m \i'-!il liiii' -jiriii::)*.
Tilt' liiiroiniMiT imliiMi' tl a rn.i.-itlciiilili' rii»»'
in till' rouiitry — lirrt' nlnuit fi> tfoii liiinilri'ii
fppt oIhivi' till' Bi'i — unil till' inor»';MP(l i-U'vii-
tion iijiwMrril iilrotiiiy to liini» KiMiir .'!ij;lit
intliinitt' iipiii till' vi';;ft;itiitn. 'J'iio iii;;l!t
wild fold, Willi n liiMiv \ (I'.'w ; llir tlu'rinoim>.
trr at 1 i p. in. Htaiuiin;; Ht Ui^, li.iriimvti>r
'.'S. |H H. Our |Hni(i(in wnn in l"iii;;itiiili' 1)6°
If I!)", ami liilitii.!.' 30' ;10 I'l .

'rill' iii'iruiiij; of till' I'Oili wri!, liiio, willi a
Houtlier'y lirft'Zf ami a liri^lit pky ; iiml at
tU'Von o'riuck we vvcri' on lli'- niari'li. Tlu"
country to-i!iiy was rallii'r in'ri' Im-krii, rin-
iiip Hlill. ami cowTpil cvfrywiu'ri' wiili iVa;,'-
niPiitu of Kilicpoiis Iiinci'tdiiP, pcrticiihrlv on
tliP Hiitiiniif.-, will re tli»'y were small, ami
thickly Ftri'wi'il as pchhlps on tin' ^!lorl' of
tlip sea. Ill ihr.xp Pxpo!=i'il siliiatinji-t i^ri'vv
hut fi'w plants; tlioujjh, whoncvpr llic 8oil
was pood and protected from tlio wind.-i, in
the crock bottoms and raviiipn, and on the
slopps, tlipy Ilourislied abundantly; amon^j
thpm tlip nmnrphn, Htill rotaininp its charac-
teristic plarp. \Vp croii>-Td at 10 a. ni., the
Bip V'-riiiillion, wliirli has a rich liottom of
about ono inilo in breadth, ono-third of which
la occupied liy timber. Makinsx our usual
haltnt noon, after a day's manli of twenty-
four milpfi, wo reachod the \\\\t Blue, am'
encamppd on tlie nplnnds of the Wf.^'rn
aide, near a small creek, where w's a line
large spring of very cold water. Thix '« u
clear and handsome stream, about one hun-
dred and twenty feel wide, running, witli a

rapid fftrrrnl. lhroui;h a wcll'timlierpd vaN
|py. To-day nnirlo|M' were neen running
ivcr the liilU, ami at evening < 'amon liroiiglit
na u tine derr Lingitiide of the camp iMI*
3-J Mi , hititude 3(1** 46 DM 'i'liermome*
ler at wun'i't lb". A iilpaaxnl »iMithprljf
hree/e and liiii' niornin^r liad (.'iviii place tu
a i;nlc, with indicatiniiii ol Uid xM'iither;
vsIkmi. after a march ol ten milci*. we liallrd
to noon on n fuiall creek, where the water
htiNwl III d'-e|i potiN. In the linnk of the
crii'k liiiie>toiie made itn ap|M-ariitice in a
xtMliim aiNiiit one ftHit thick. In the ufier
noon, the |H'i>i<le Kicmcd to siillir for want
ofwaicr. Tl.c road Jul ulmi;; u lii^'li dry
tid}.'e; dark linen of timber indicated tlio
headi of htri aniH in the pl.iiiiA below ; bill
there was no watc" near, iind the day wr^
very ii|.|.,. •'ive, .vith a hot wind, and tho
tlicriiiomeler ui. i)i)*'. Along our ruiit" the
iinuiri'ha has iM'en in very abundant hut va-
riable Itlooin— in Moine places lieiniiiig In>-
maili tin' wiight ol purple cliifterH ; in oth-
ers without a lliiwcr. It seems to Ionc lit'Ht
the Miiiny hIo|m's, with a dark soil and :<outh-
ern »'X|m i.nre. I'.verywiiere the roM! is met
with, ami reinimU us of cultivated (;iii'den.s
ami ciNili'.ition. It is scattered over the
prairit'S in ^nl.lll Ixniipiets, and, when (>lilter-
m^r ill till' dews and wavin„' in the piea^unt
brce/t' of the early inorniii;;, is the most
Uaiilifil of the prairie (lowers. The «r/r-
miniit, a'isinthe, or prairie sage, as it is va-
riou-ly ci.lled, is increasing in size, and glit-
t^-rs like silver, as the southern brei/.e turns
lip its leaves to the sun. All these plants
have their in^ect inhabiiants, variously cidor-
ed ; taking generally the hue of the tlower
on which they live. The artrtnixiit has its
small Hy accoiiijanying it Ihniugh every
cliaii;;e of elevation and latitude ; and wher-
ever I lia\e yeeii the asclijiius liil>'ii).\ii, I
have always remarked, too, on the liower a
lirge butterlly, co nearly resembling it in
color as to he distinguishable ut a little dis-
tance only bv the motion of its wings. Tra-
V Hill}; on, tiie fresh traces of the (Jregon
emigrants relieve a little tho loneliness of
till' roiid ; and to-night, after a march of
twenty-two miles, we halted on a small
creek, which had been one of their encamp-
ments. As we advance westward, the soil
appear* to l.e getting more sandy, and the
surface riick,.an erratic deposite ol sand and
gr.ivel, rests here on a bed of coarse yellow
and grey and very friable sandstone. Kven-
iiijr closed over with rain and its iipual at-
tendant hnriles of inusqiiitoes, with which
we were Hiinoyed for the first time.

June 'i'i. — We enjoyed at breakfast this
morning i lu.xiiry, very nnusual in I it
country, in a cup of excellent eoiree. w '\
cream fnm our cow. Being milked it
night, cream was thus had in the 'noniing.

riA4t.

tnhorrd vaN
*ii niiining
•nil hruii|f|it
• niiiii) W"
rii<<riiiiinie.
I •iMithi'rIy
I'll (iliiro tu
J ut'ullior;
, ui> Imlird
' tilt' wiilor
ink (if iho
riiii(*<> III ■

I llii> ufii'r
r lor want

II lii^-li dry
ii-ntnl tlio
w'low ; bill
(< (l;iy Wta
I, and (ho

Mil!" Ihu
lilt tail VII-
'lidJii); Im<.
H ; ill iitli.
) lovr licxt
and Miiiitli*

l>M! i-* IIH't

il {;iiid«'ii.'*

nvi'r the

pii (ililti'r-

■ (ik'u^uiit

tliu riioitt

'VUv arte-

\ it in va-

uiid ^lit-

zc tiiriiM

t |iliiiili«

y iiiliir-

(Idwer

llllH it8

every

id wlicr-

iiiMi, I

fliiMcr a

i: it in

ittio (lis-

Tra-

(Jrogon

less of

ircli of

Hinall

ncninp-

lio soil

and tlio

lid and

yoIIoMf

Kvcn-

ll:il at-

u liich

1st this

in J l^

1S42.)

CAIT. KKKMONT'tt NARRVI'INK.

r''

jrtiing.

Our ml«i-<Uv Imlt -vm ftt Wyi«fh'« etPtik, In
IIm' U*d III vvliirli uiTi' lUMiirnMi't iNnildi'ni
of dark li'rrii({iiiiiii< >>itiid«li)ii>', iiiiiiuIimI wiih
othvr* ol tli(> ri'd mtiiijiluiio Hlri'Hdy nn'ii-
(ii>n«<l. lleri' n |Kick of ciird^, lyintr l<H>f>i<
•11 tlii> ffrn*', iiiiirki'd mi <'nriiiii|Mii(Mit ol mir
Ori'Knii iMiii^riiiitn ; und it wn« iit tin i'lo«i*
1)1 (lii> diy mIumi \sv iiumI*' <>iir liaoiiur in tlit'
iiiidit III Hiiiiii> v\idl(iiiilx-rcd mviiu'i* iii'.ir liit*
Liitit! Illu«>, tMi'iily-loiir inili*>« trmn mir
rump or till' |)ri'ci'diii>( nijjlil. ('ri»H<«iM|; ||m>
nuvt niorniiiK u iiuiiilM>r nt liiiiiiUoiii<> rrcok*,
Mitli I'l'iir wiitfriind Nuiidy IxmU, wi' r)Mrli«>d,
Mt IW .t Ml , • very iM-aiililtil wixNlcd Hlnani,
m\n>ul tlurty-Hvc fi'it wide, mili-d Sandy
cn-i-k, and Hoiiictiiiicx, ii4 tlio (>(toi>it In'-
fjin'iitly winter lliere, tlie Otto fork. 'I'lio
I'liunlry Ii:h h<'ciiiii<< vi-ry xaiidy, and tin*
pluntx lenH varied and alMind.ini, widi llie
oxi'r|itii.n of tliu (jm(iryt/i<<, wliii'li rivnix Ilie
ifr.is-* ill (jiiuntity, tlnMii^ii iMt hu forward aa
It tiii>4 Ix'iMi fiiiiiid to (lie I'it^tward.

At iht' \l\g Trceii, wlnte we Imd intended
to noun, no water wum to lie fniind. 'I'lie U'd
of lin' little rroc'k wu-t |M'rlecily dry, and, o'l
tlie uil.iueiil Kiiiidy botioin, rti'i, lor lite liriit
time, inado tlieir a|>'M'iir.ini'e. Wo made
lu-re a Hlior( delay in Meari'li ol water ; and,
alt-r a hard duvM iiiarcli ol twcnly-ei^lit
unlet:, uiM'aiii|ieil, at 6 o'llock, on tlie l.iltle
Itliie, w'liero our arrival inadi' ii nceiie ol the
Araliiaii desert. Ah fant as they arrived, men
and liiiiwes rn^lled into the blreain, where
they bathed and drank tof^other in coininoii
eiij-iym'-iit. Wo wore novv in the raiinc of
tiiu I'awneeM, who wore accustomed to interit
this put ol the (-oiintry, Ht<!alin;r liorseM from
coinpnnieri on their way to the mountains,
and, when in Hullicient force, o|MMily utt>tck-
in;; and plunderin^r them, and Hiibi) ctin^;
them to various kindn of insult. For the
first time, therefore, jjuard was mnnnted to-
niifht. Our route tin? ne.vt morning lay up
the valley, which, bordered by hills with
Kriiceful s!()|»c«, looked uncommonly ^reen
ami be.intiful. The stream wa« aUiut lifty
feet wide, iind throe or four dee|), frinj,'ed by
cotton woihI and willow, with fre(|uont proves
of oak tenanted by Hocks of turkeys. (Jame
liere, too, made its a|)|)oaranco in greater
plenty. KIk were frequently ceen on tlio
mils, and n<nv and then an antelope iMiunded
across our path, or a doer broke from the
proves. Till! road in tho afternuun was over
the U|)per prairies, several miles from the
river, and we encamped at sunset on one of
its small tributaries, where an abundaiice of
prele {iifniselum) aillirded tine forage to our
tired animals. We had travelled thirty-one
milea. A lieavy bank of black clouds in the
west camo on us in a storm lielwecn nine
and ten, preceded by a violent wind. Tlio
rain fell in such torrents that it was ditTicult
tn breathe facinff the wind, the thunder rolled

inc#«a«nlty, arxl (hn wholA ikv w*« trfmii*

lou« With li<rhtninir: now uiid then illiiinin.
n'<'<| by a blni Iiiik llit>h, xiicceeded In pitt liy
darkiM'M. Carbon hud the wal'h ir<'iii (en
to inidniifhl, a)id to liim had h"<<ri imi i|?ni<t
our young i-.imixi^iitititn i/c tni/iici', Mi'itunt,
llruiii and U Heiilon. 'I'lii* was (heir lir»l
iiit;ht lui guard, and 'Uch an iiitrixlin (ion did
no( iiu;;ur very au^puio mly i>t the pleamiren
III the ex|ie<|ition, .Miiiiv tlnn :M''tii«pire<l tii
rnider (heir Hitiiiition uii.'oiiiiortab!e ; Niorieii
of deMiM'rate and bbxxly iiiliiin li^'hli* were
rile III the camp; our |)o»ilioii wa* biidly
clioNen, mirroundeil oii all hides 1>,' limlN'n d
hollow*, mil occiipvmi an iiriu >i| several
hundred feet, mi that necosiirilv the guards
were tir a|Kirl ; and niw and then I nitilj
hear Kamloliih, ai if relieved by th.> muind
ol b voice III (lie tlarkness, culling out (o (htf
H(>ri:eaiit ol ilie giinnl, to direct Ins attention
to some iuriifiniry Hlarm : but tl ey h1o<h| it
out, Htid liNik their (urn regiiiarly al\i>r>
ward.

I'iie next morning wo had a Mp< ciiuen of
the laUe alarms to which all purlieu in theic

wild regions are subject. I'n -.Iiiig ii|i

the valley, o' jei (s were seen on the e'ipiu
site bills, which disnpix'ared Is'lore a glii>s
could be broiiglit to Immp ii|Hin lliem. A
man, who w:im a short di t mce in the rear,
came spurring up in great liiis(i>, hh<iiiiin<;
Indian'* ! Indians! lie lind been near
enough (o hei> and < oiiiil them, ncconlmg to
his report, and had inadc out twenty ••even.
I immediately halted ; arms wer(> examined
and put in order ; the usual preparations
made; niul Kii Carson, s|)riniring upon ono
of the hunting horses, crosiied the river, and
galloped olV into the op|Misite prairii>s, (o ob>
tain some certain inlelligcncu of their move*
iiientH.

.MountiMJ on a fine horse, without a paddle,
and scouring bareheaded over the prairies,
Kit was one«tf the linest pictures of a horse-
map I have ever seen. A short time ena-
blid him to discover that the Indian war
party of twenty-seven, consisted of si.v elk,
who had been gnzing curiously at our cara-
van as it passed by, and were now 8cain|M»r-
ing oil' at full sjM'ed. This was our lirst
alarm, and its excitement broke agreeably
on the monotony of '.he day. At oii'- iiik)Ii
halt, the men were e.vercised at R target ;
and in the evening w(> pitched our touts at a
Pawnee encampment of last July. Th*ey
had apparently Killed builiilo here, as many
bones were lying about, and tho frames
whore tin* hides had been stretched were yet
standing. The road of tho day had kept
tho valloy, which is sometimes rich and well
timbered, though the country is generally
sandy. Mingled with the usual plants, a
thistle (carduus leucii^raphus) haci for the
last day or two made its appearance ; aad

CAPT. FREMCNT'S NARRATIVE.

[1849.

Hi'

along the river bottom, Iradcscatttia (virijini-
ca) nnil milk plant (afclei>iits stjriaca*) in
conBidembie quantities.

Our march to-day hail l)oen twcnly-onc
miloB, and the aBtronomical observations
gave us a chronometric I' n^itndeof 98° 23'
VI", and latitude 40« 20 SO'. We were
moving forward at seven in the mominf^.and
in about five miles reached a fork ot the
Blue, where the road leaves that river, and
crosses over to the Plaltc. No water was to
be found on the dividing ridge, and the casks
were filled, and the animals here allowed a
short rejKJse. The road led across a high
and level prairie ridge, where were but few
l>iants, and those principally thistle (carduiis
kuc6graphu!t), anil a kmd of dwarf artemi-
sia. Antelope were seen frequently during
the morning, which was very stormy.
Squalls of rain, with thunder and lightning,
were around us in every direction ; and
while we were enveloped m one of them, a
flash, which seemed to scorch our eyes as it
passed, struck in the prairie within a few
iiundred feet, sending up a column of dust.

CiDssing on the way several Pawnee
road:^ to the Arkansas, we reached, in about
twenty-one miles from our halt on the Blue,
what is called the coast of the Nebraska, or
Platte river. This had seemed in the dis-
tance a range of high and broken hills ; but
on a nearer approach were found to be ele-
vations of forty to sixty feet, into which the
wind had worked the sand. They were co-
vered with the usual fine grasses of the
country, and bordered the eastern side of
the ridge on a breadth of about two miles.
Change of soil and country appeared lierc
to have produced some change in the vege-
tation. Cacti were numerous, and all the
plants of the region appeared to flourish
among the warm hills. Among thcin the
amorpha, in full bloom, was remarkable for
its large and luxuriant purple clusters.
From the foot of the coast, a distance of two
miles across the level bottom brought us to
our encampment on the shore of tne river,
about twenty miles below the head of Grand
Island, which lay extended before us, cover-
ed with dense and heavy woods. From the
moutk of the Kansas, according to our reck-
oning, we had travelled three Tiundred and
twenty-eight miles ; and the geological form-
ation of the country we had passed over

* "7..ig plant is very odoriferous, and in Canada
efaarms the traveller, especially when passing through
woods in the evening. The French there eat the lender
shoots in the spring, as we do asparagus. The naUvea
make a sugar ol the flowers, gathering them in the
morning when they arc covered with dew, and collect
the cotUm from their pods to All their beds. On account
of the silkiness of this cotton, Parkinson calls the plant
Vinrinian tilk."— Loudon's Eneyelopadia of Planti.

The Sioux Indians of the Upper Platte eat the young
pods of this plant, boiling them with the meat of the
bM&lo.

consisted of lime and sandstone, covered by
the same erratic ilr|K)sitc of sand and gnivcl
which forms the surface rock of the prairies
between the Missouri and Missisnippi rivers.
Except in some occasional limestone bould-
ers, I hud met with no fossils. The t;l<'Ta-
tion of the Platte valley above tlio sea is
here about two thousand feet. The astro-
nomical observations of the ni^hi placed ns
in longitude 1)8° 46' 49", latitude lOoll'
06'.

June 27. — The animals were somewhat
fatigued by their march of ycstordny, and,
after a short journey of eighteen miles along
the river bottom, I encamped near the head
of (Jrand Inland, in longitude, by oliserva-
tion, 99*' 05' 24", latitude 40" 39' 32".
The soil here was light but rich, though in
some places rather sandy ; and, v/ith the ex-
ception of a scattered fringe along the bank,
the timber, consisting principally of poplar
{populus mnnilijera), elm, and hackberry
(celt is crassi/olia), is confined almost entirely
to the islands.

June 28. — We halted to noon at an open
reach of the river, which occupies rather
more than a fourth of the valley, here only
al)out four miles broad. The camp had been
dis|)osed with the usual precaution, the
horses grazing at a little distance, attended
by the guard, and we were all sitting quietly
at our dinner on the grass, when suddenly
we heard the startling cry " dii monde !" In
an instant, every man's \. eapon was in his
hand, the horses were driven in, hobbled and
picketed, and horsemen were galloping at
full speed in the direction of the new comers,
screaming and yelling with the wildest e.\-
citement. " Get ready, my lads I " said ihf
leader of the approaching party to his men.
when our wild-looking horsemen were dis-
covered bearing down upon them ; " nour
allons atlraper aes coups de baguette." They
proved to l^ a small party of fourteen, under
the charge of a man named John Lee, and,
with their baggage and provisions strapped
to their backs, were making their way on
foot to the frontier. A brief account of their
fortunes will give some idea of navigation in
the Nebraska. Sixty days since, they had
left the mo-'h of Laramie's fork, some three
hundred miles above, in barges laden with
the furs of the American Fur Company.
They started with the annual flood, and,
drawing but nine inches water, hoped to
make a speedy and prosperous voyage to St.
Ix)uis ; but, after a lapse of forty days, foand
themselves only one hundred and thirty
miles from their point of departure. They
came down rapidly as far as Scott's bluf&,
where their difficultiee began. Sometime*
they came upon places where the water was
spread over a great extent, and here they
toiled from morning until night, endeavoring

[1849.

1S49.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

le three
II with
mpany.
and,
)cd ti)
to St.
foand
thirty
They
hluffi,
etiines
T was
' they
raring

to Ang thoir boat throufrh the Hands, making
only two or thrcu miles in an many days.
Sometimes they would enter an arm of the
river, where there apjieared a tine channel,
and, a.\\tit desccniiing pntsporously for eight
or tt>n miles, would come suddenly upon dry
hand-i, and he compelled to return, dragging
tlioir lioat fur days igaiust the ninid current ;
and ut others, they came u|ton places where
tiiu water lay in holes, and, getting out to
tluat oil' their boat, would fall into water up
to their necks, and the next moment tumble
over against a sandbai Discouraged, at
leufith, and fmding the IMatto growing every
day more shallow, they discharged the prin-
cipal part of their cargoes one liundrod and
thirty miles below Fort I^aramie, which they
secured as well as pos:)ible, and, leaving a
few men to guard tliem, attem|)ted to con-
tinue their voyage, laden with some light
turs and their personal baggage. After fif-
teen or twenty days more struggling in the
sands, during which they made but one hun-
dred and lorty miles, they sunk their barges,
made a cache of their remaining furs and
property, in trees on the bank, and, packin_
on his back what each man could carry, ha
commenced, the day before we encountered
them, their journey on foot to St. Louis.

We laughed then at their forlorn and vag-
abond ap|>«'arance, and, in our turn, a month
or two afterwards, furnished the same occa-
sion for merriment to others. Even their
stock of tobacco, that si^iie qjid non of a voy-
ageiir, without which the night tire is gloomy,
was entirely exhausted. However, we
shortened their homeward journey by a small
supply from our own provision. They gave
us the welcome intelligence that the buifalo
were abundant some two days' march in ad-
rance, and made us a present of some choice
pieces, which were a very acceptable change
irom our salt pork. In the interchange of
news, and the renewal of old acquaintance-
ships, we found wherewithal to till a busy
hour ; then we mounted our horses, and
they shouldered their packs, and we shook
hands and parted. Among them, I had
found an old companion on the northern
prairie, a hardened and hardly served veteran
of the mountains, who had been as much
hacked and scarreii as an old moustache of
Napoleon's " old guard." He flourished in
tlie sobriquet of La Tulipe, and his real
name I never knew. Finning that he was
going to the States only because his compa-
ny was bound in that direction, and that he
was rather more willing to return with me,
I took him again into my service. We
travelled this day but seventeen miles.

At Oil' evening camp, about sunset, three
figures were discovered approaching, which
our glasses made oat to be Indians. They
proved to be Cbeyennes — two men, and a

boy of thirteen. About a month since, they
had left their people on the south fork of the
river, some three hundred miles to the west-
ward, and a party of only four in number
had been to the Pawnee villages on a horse-
stealing excursion, from which they were
returning unsuccessful. They were miser-
ably mounted on wild hordes from the Ark-
ansas plain*, and had no other weaiMins than
bows and long spears ; and had they been
discovered by the Pawnees, coi;!d not, by
any possibility, have escaped. They were
mortitied by their ill success, and said the
Pawnees were cowards, who shut up their
horses in their lodges at night. I invited
them to supper with me, and Randolph and
the young dlieyenne, who had been eyeing
each other suspiciously and curiously, soon
became intimate friends. After supper, we
sat down on the grass, and I placed a sheet
of paper between us, on which they traced
rudely, but with a certain degree of relative
truth, the watercourses of the country which
lay between us and their village.^, and of
which I desired to have some iii'orniation.
Their companions, they told us, li > taken a
nearer route over the hills; but i!i'>y had
mounted one of the summits to spy out tlie
country, whence they had caught a glimpse
of our party, and, confident of good treat-
ment at the hands of the whites, hastened to
join company. Latitude of the camp 40°
39' 61".

We made the next morning sixteen miles.
I remarked that the ground was covered in
many places with an efflorescence of salt,
and the plants were not numerous. In the
bottoms were frequently seen iradescanlia,
and on the dry ienches were ranliius, caclus,
and amorpha, A high wind during the
morning had increased to a violent gaiefrom
the northwest, which made our afternoon
ride cold and unpleasant. We had the wel-
come sight of two bufliiloes on one of the
large islands, and encamped at a clump of
timber about seven miles from our noon halt,
after a day's march of twenty-two miles.

The air was keen the next morning at
sunrise, the thermometer standing at 44o,
and it was sufficiently cold to make over-
coats very comfortable. A few miles brought
us into the midst of the buffalo, swarming
in immense numbers over the plains, where
they had left scarcely a blade of grass stand-
ing. Mr. Preuss, who was sketching at a
little distance in the rear, had at first noted
them as large groves of timber. In the
sight of such a mass of life, the traveller
feels a strange emotion of grandeur. We
had heard from a distance a dull and con-
fused murmuring, and, when we came in
view of their dark masses, there was not one
among us who did not feel his heart beat
quicker. It was the early part of the day.

CAl'T. FRKMONTS NARRATIVE.

[1849.

when the hcrdH are ffi'diii;? ; and cvory-
wlien- llit'V wore in motion. Here and tliorc
a hui;c old bull was rollin}r in tlio (rrnnrt, and
cloutL of diiMt rose in llie iiir from variouH
|)artrt of tlio hiindrt, «>aoli the ncotw of j^omo
ol):<tiiiatt> Ijirht. lndi:iii.-4 and htitllilo make
(lie |M>oiry ami lift' ol llif prairio, and o\ir
camp was full of llu'ircxliilarution. In placo
of llio fjuii't monotony of the ma/ch, ri'lievtd
only by the cracking of the whip, and an
'• niiiiirr ditnc ! eiifitiil dr i^urc: ! " hIioiiIh
and sonjrs ii'soimdod from ivory part of the
line, and our eveninjr camp was always the
oonnnoncenifnt of :i I'e.ist, which terniinuted

II.

only with t)ur tlepuriiire on the ful.'owinir
mornin;:. .At any time of tiie niplit tnijilit
bo Hcen pieces of llie most delicate and
choicest meat, roa^itinp in iipjixhis, on slicks
around the tire, and the frujird were never
without company. With pleasruit w eather
and no enemy to fear, an abundance of the
most excellent meat, and no scarcity of
bread or tobacco, they were eiijoyin;,' thi'
o.isiri of a voyai;eur's lite. Three cows were
killed lo-d:iy. Kit (.'arson had shot rue, and
was continuin^r llie char-e in the midst of
uiiotlier herd, when his horse leil headlonjr,
but Bpran;; up and joined the (lyini; kind.
Th-iiiir!i considerably liurf, ho had tl.e ^ood
fortune to Itreak no iHines; and Afaxweil,
who was mounted on a fleet hunter, cap-
tured the runaway alter a hard chase, lie j
was on the point of .^bootinjj him, to avoid i
the !o.-s of his bridle, (a liaiidsiMnely numnt- j
cd Spanish one), when he found that liis I
hor.'^e was able to come up wilh him. Ani- ;
mals are freipiently lost in this way ; and it
is necessary to keep close watch over them,
in the vicinity of the buflUlo, in the midst of |
which they scour oil" to the jdains, and are
rarely retaken. One of our mules took a
sudden freak into his head, and joined a
ncighborinff band to-«Iay. As we were not
in a condition to lose horses, I sent several
men in pursuit, and remained in camp, in
the hope of recoverinjj him ; but lost the
afternoon to no purpose, as we did not see
him again. Astronomical observations
placed us in longitude lOOo 06' 47", latitude
40O49' 65".

July 1. — Along our road to-day tlie prairie
bottom was more elevated and dry, and the
hills which border the right side of the river
higher, and more broken and picturesque in
the outline. The country, too, was belter
timbered. As we were ridinsj quietly along
the bank, a grand herd of bullalo, some seven
or eight hundred in number, came crowding
up from the river, where they had been to
drink, and commenced crossing the plain
nlowly, eating as they went. Tlie wind was
favorable ; the coolness of the morning in-
vited to exercise ; the ground was apparently
good, and the distance across the prairie (two

or three miles) gave uh a fine op|iortunity to
change them before they could get among the
river hills. It was t(H) tine a proB|M'ct for a
chase to Im; lost ; and, Imltinfr for a few mo-
ment?, the hunters were brought pn and sad-
dled, and Kit Car.^on, Maxwell, ami I,sfa:fed
togi'ther. They were now somewhat lesi
than half a mile distant, and we rode easily
along until within about three hundred yards,
when a siuldeii agitation, a wavering in the
hand, and a galloping to an<'. fro of some
which were scattered along the skirts, gave
us the intimation that we were discovered.
We (-tarled together at a ha ml gallop, ridiii;;
steadily al)rcii>t of each other, and here the
interest of thech'se became .«(> engrossingly
intense, that we were sensible lo nothing else.
We were now closing upon them rapidly, and
the front of the mass was already in rapid
mofiiin for the hills, and in a few sectuids the
movement had communicated itself to the
whole herd.

A crowd of bulls, as usual, brought np the
rear, and every now and then some of them
laced about, and then dashed on aOer the
band a short distance, and turned and looked
again, a^ if n.ore than half inclined to stand
and tight. In a few moments, however, du-
ring which we had been quickening our pace,
the rout was universal, and we were going
ovi-r the ground like a hurricane. When at
about thirty yards, wo gave the usual shout
(the hunter's /vls de charge), and broke into
the herd. We entered on the side, the maw
giving way in every direction in their heed-
less course. Many of the bulls, less active
and less fleet than the cows, paying no at-
tention to the ground, and occupied solely
with tlie hunter, were precipitated to the eartli
with great force, rolling over and over wilh
the violence of the shock, and hardly dis-
tinguishable in the dust. We separated on
entering, each singling out his game.

My hor.se was a trained hunter, famous in
the west under the name of I'roveaii, and,
with his eyes flashing, and the foam flying
from his mouth, sprang on after the cow like
a tiger. In a few moments he brought me
alongside of her, and rising in tiic stirrups, I
fired at the distance of a yard, the ball enter-
ing at the termination of the long hair, and
passing near the heart. .She fell headlong
at tl.o report of the gun, and, checking my
horse, I looked around for my companions.
At a little distance, Kit was on the ground,
engaged in tying his horse to the horns of
a cow which lie was preparing to cut np.
Among the scattered bands, at some distance
below, I caught a glimpse of Maxwell ; and
while I was looking, a light wreath of white
smoke curled away from his gun, from which
I was too far to hear the report. Nearer,
and between me and the hills, towards which
they were directing their course, was the

[1849.

opjiortunity to
[,M-t amuiifr th(>
•rosprct tor a
for a few mo-
it i>n mill Hiid-
ami I,Ntii-ti>d

llllCU'llUt ICRf

e rod(> caeily
undrt'd yards,

Prinnr ill tlio
("ni of Hcino
' nl(irtH, piivp
s tliscovrrcd.
,'iilloj), ridiii"
iiid iurt< Ili(>

C'lli:r08.sill(r|y

iiiitliirif,' else.
I rapidly, and
iuly in rapid
I seconds tlio
itself to tli(>

aiiglit lip tliP
OHIO of lliom
in after tlie
1 and looked
ncd tu stand
lowever, du-
ng our pare,
were goiiii:
. When at
nsiml slioiit
broke into
Je, the maw
their heed-
less active
t'm^ no nt-
pied solely
theearlli
over with
lardly dis-
la rated on
tiie.

fainons in
■can, and,
jam Hying
le cow like
rought me
stirrups, 1
ball enter-
hair, and
headlong
eking my
inpimions.
e ground,
( horns of
} cut lip.
e distance
well ; and
1 of while
om which
Nearer,
rds which
was the

1843.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

body ol the herd, and, giving my horse the
rein, wo danhed after them. A thick cloud
of dust hung U|)on their rear, which tilled
my mouth and eyes, and nearly smothered
me. In the midst of this I could see nothing,
and .he butfalo were not distingnishalilc until
within thirty feet. They crowded together
more densely still as I came iipf)n them,nnil
rushed along in such a compact body, that I
could not obtain an entrance — the horse al-
most leaping u|)on thorn. In a lew moments
tho mass Jivided to the right and lott, the
horns clattering with a noise heard above
everything else, and my horse darted into
tho opening. Five or six bulls charged on
us as we dashed along tho lino, but were 'eft
far iiehind ; and, singling out a cow, I gave
her my fire, but struck t(K> high. She gave
a tremendous leap, and scoured on swift(>r
than before. I reined up my horse, and tlie
band swept on like a torrent, and loft tho
place quiet and clear. Our chase had led us
into dangerous ground. A prairio dog-vil-
.agc, so thickly settled that there were three
or four holes in every twenty yards square,
occupied the whfde bottom for nearly two
miles in length. Looking around, I saw only
one of tho hunters, noarFy out of sight, anil
the long dark line of our caravan crawling
along, three or four miles distant. After a
inarch of twonty-four miles, we encamped at
nightfall, one mile and a half above tho lower
end of Brady's Island. Tho breadth of this
arm of the river was eight hundred and
eighty yards, and the water nowhere two
feet in depth. The island bears the name of
a man killed on this spot some years ago.
His party had encamped here, three in com-
pany, and one of the number went off to iinnt,
leaving Brady and his companion together.
These two had frequently quarrelled, and on
the hunter's return he found Brady dead, and
was told that he had shot himself accitlont-
ally. He was buried here on the bank ; but,
as usual, the wolves had torn him out, and
some human bonea that were lying on the
ground we supposed were his. Troops of
wolves, that were hanging on the skirts of
the buiiklo, kept up an uninterrupted howling
during the night, venturing almost into camp.
In the morning, they were sitting at a short
distance, barking, and impatiently waiting
our departure, to fall upon the bones.

July 2. — The morning was cool and smoky.
Our road led closer to the hills, which here
increased in elevation, presenting an outline
of conical peaks three hundred to five hun-
dred feet high. Some timber, apparently
pine, grows in the ravines, and streaks
of clay or sand whiten their slopes. We
crossed during the morning a number of hol-
lows, timbered principally with box elder
{acer negundo), poplar and elm. Brady's
island is well wooded, and all the river along

which our ro.id led tcwiay may, in general,
Imj called toleraitly well timhorod. Wt; pass-
ed near an encampment of the Oregon emi-
grants, where they appeared to have n'|K)scd
several days. A variety of household arti-
cles wore scattered aliout, and llioy Iml pru-
liably disbiirdonod thomselves here of ininy
things not alisolutoly necessary. ! Iiad h-it
the usual road Itefore the mid-day halt, an I
in the afternoon, having sent sovi nil men i i
advance to reconnoitre, marched dirccily lor
the mouth of tho South fork. On our .irn-
val, the horsemen were sent in ami siMtli-n J
aix>ut the rivor to search the Ix'sf f<iriliii..j
places, and the carls fidlowed ininiediately.
riio stream is here divided by an i-land into
two channels. The southern is four hiindreci
and lifty feet wide, having eighteen or twenty
inches water in tlie «lee|H'st places. Willi
the exception of a few dry bars, the bed of
the rivor is generally quicksands, in wliiih
the carts began to sink rapidly so soon as
the mules halted, ho that it was necessary to
keep them constantly in moticm.

Tht» northern cliannel, two thousand two
hundred and fifty feet wide, was somewhat
deeper, having froq'ieiitly throe feet water in
the niiinerotis small chamiels, with a Ix'd of
coarse gravel. Tho whole breadth of tho
Nebraska, immediately below the junction, is
five thousand t'lreo hundred and fifty feet.
All our efpiipage had reached the leu bank
safely at (] o'clock, having to-<lay made twenty
miles. We encamped at the point of land
immediately at the junction of the North and
South forks. Between the streams is a low
rich prairie, extending from their confluence
eighteen miles westwardly to tho bordering
hills, where it is five and a half miles wide.
It is covered with a luxuriant growth of grass,
and along the banks is a slight and scattered
fringe of cottonwood and willow. In the
bultalo trails and wallows, I remarked saline
efflorescences, to which a rapid evaporation
in the great heat of the sun probably contri-
butes, as the soil is entirely unprotected by
timber. In the vicinity of these places there
was a bluish grass, which the cattle refuse
to eat, called by the voyageurs " lierbe snlie "
(salt grass). Tho latitude of the junction is
41° 04" 47", and longitude, by chronometer
and lunar distances, 100" 49' 43". The ele-
vation above the sea is about two thousand
seven hundred feet. The hunters came in
with a fat ccw ; and, as we had labored hard,
we enjoyed well a supper of roasted ribs and
bnudins, the chef-d'muvre of a prairie cook.
Mosquitoes thronged about us this evening ;
but, by 10 o'clock, when the thermometer had
fallen to 4'.'°, they had all disappeared.

July 3. — As this was to be a point in our
homeward journey, I made a cache (a term
used in all this country for what is hidden in
the ground) of a barrel of pork. It was im*

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1843.

pORHiblo to conceal iiicli a |)ro«"i'o»linjr from
the Hliarp eyoH i»f our (.'lit?yeimo com|)anionn,
and I tlicrelorc told them tOL'o and hoc wiiat
it .vns Ihoy were burying. They wonht oth-
erwine huve not iuiled tti return and destroy
our aiclif in «\\|)e('fRtion of nomo rich booty ;
liut pork they dinlilto, and never eat. We
h'ft our cani|) at i), continuing up the South
fori<, the prniriu itottom alfording us a fair
road ; but in the King gni«s w,e roused myri-
Hd.4 of inoHUuitocs and Hies, from which our
horncH sutlerod Bevercly. Tlie day was
smoky, witii a pleasant breeze from tho south,
v.nd the plains on the opposite side were co-
vered with bufliilo. Having travelled twenty-
tive miles, we encamped at 6 in the evening ;
and the men were sent across tho river for
wotxi, as there is none here on the left bank.
Our tires were partially ma<le of the hoix dv
vachc, tlic dry excrement of the buftlilo,
which, like that of the camel in the Arabian
deserts, furnishes to the traveller a very gexnl
sttbstitute for wood, burning like turf.
Wolves in great numbers surrounded us
during the night, crossing and recrossing
from the o[iposite herds to our camp, and
howling and trotting about in the river until
morning.

July 4. — The morning was verj- smoky,
the sun shining dimly and red, as in a thick
fog. Tho camp was roused witii a salute at
daybreak, and from our scanty store a portion
of what our Indian friends called tlie " red
fire water " serwd otit to the men. While
we were at breakfast, a bufFalo calf broke
through the camp, followed by a couple of
wolves. In its fright, it had probably mis-
taken us for a bancTof bufialo. The wolves
were obliged to make a circuit around the
camp, so that the calf got a little the start,
and strained every nerve to reach a large
herd at the foot ot the hills, about two miles
distant ; but first one, and then another, and
another wolt joined in the chase, until his
pursuers amounted to twenty or thirty, and
they ran him down before he could reach his
friends. There were a few bulls near the
place, and one of them attacked the wolves,
and tried to rescue him ; but was driven oil'
immediately, and the little animal fell an
easy prey, half devoured before he was dead.
We watched the chase with the interest al-
ways felt for the weak ; and liad there been
a saddled horse at hand, he would have fared
better. Leaving camp, our road soon ap-

f>roached the hifls, in which strata of a marl
ike that of the Chimney rock, hereafter de-
scribed, make their appearance. It is proba-
bly of this rock that the hills on the right
bank of the Platte, a little below the junction,
are composed, and which are worked by the
winds and rains into sharp peaks and cones,

giving them, in contrast to the surrounding
tvel region, something of a picturesque ap-

(icarancc. We crossed this morning numc<
rous beds of the small creeks which, in the
time of rains and melting snow, pour down
from tho ridge, bringing down with them al-
wavs great ipiantities of sand and gravel,
whu'hnave gnidually raised their Iwds fuur
to ten (eet above the level of the prairie,
which tliey croHH, making each one of them
a miniature Po. Iliiised in this way alN)V(;
the surniundin^r pniirie, without uny bank,
the long yellow and winding lino of their
beds rt'seniblfs a causeway from the liills to
the river. Many npots on tho prairie arc
yellow with siMitlitwer {heliuiithus).

As wo were riding slowly along this after-
noon, clouds of dust in tho ravines, among
tho hills to tho right, suddenly attracted our
attention, and in a few minutes column alter
column of bufiulo came galloping down,
making directly to the river. Ily the time
the leading herds had roacliiu ho water, the

frairie was darkened with the uenso masses,
mmcdiately before us, wiiou the bands first
came down into the valley slretclied an un-
broken line, the head of which was lost
among tlie river hills on tlu; opposite side ;
and still they |ioured down from the ridge on
our right. From hill to hill, tlie prairie bot-
tom was certainly not less than two miles
wide ; and, allowing tlio animals to be ten
feet apart, and only ten in a line, there were
already eleven thousand in view. Some
idea may thus be formed of their numiier
when they had occupied the whole plain.
In a short time they surrounded us on every
side ; extending for several miles in the rear,
and forward as far as the eye could reach -,
leaving around us, as wc advanced, an open
space of only two or three hundred yards.
This movement of the buffalo indicated to
us the presence of Indians on the north
fork.

I halted earlier than usual, about forty
miles from the junction, and all hands were
soon busily engaged in preparing a feast to
celebrate the day. The kindness of our
friends at St. Louis had provided us with a
large supply of excellent preserves and rich
fruit cake ; and when these were added to a
maccaroni soup, and variously prepared dish-
es of the choicest bufialo meat, crowned
with a cup of coifee. and enjoyed with prai-
rie appetite, w^e felt, as we sat in barbaric
luxury around our smoking supper on the
grass, a greater sensation of enjoyment than
tho Roman epicure at his perfumed feast.
But most of all it seemed to please our In-
dian friends, who, in the unrestrained enjoy-
ment of the moment, demanded to know if
our " medicine days came oflen." No re-
Btramt was exercised at the hospitable board,
and, to the great delight of his elders, our
young Indian lad made himself extremely
drunk.

[184a.

m\ing nume*
vhicli, ill tho
V, pour duwii
^itli tiiein al-
and frravcl,
3ir l)od!* four

tlio prairie,
one iif tlitMii
H way alH)vo
It uiiy l)Hiik,
line uf their
I the hilla to

prairie arc
m).

ig this aftcr-
inca, among
ttracted our
;oluinn after

[ling down,
Jy llic time
e water, tliu
use inasHeB.
i bandei Hrst
ched an un-
:h wud Io»t
posite side ;
the ridge on
prairie bot-

two niilcR
Is to he ten
there were
!W. Home
eir iiuinijer
hole plHJii.
IS o'l every
in the roar,
>uld reach ;
;d, an open
Ired yards,
idicated to

the north

bout forty
ands were
a feast to
38 of our
us with a
3 and ricli
added to a
mred dish-

crownc'l
with prai-

barbaric
er on the
ment than
ned feast.
30 our In-
led enjoy-
» know if
No re-
>le board,
ders, our
atremely

1849.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARR.\T1VK.

Our encampment \v,\» within a few iiiiles
of tho place whore the lond crosses to tho
north fork, and various reasons led me to di-
vide my party at this point. The north fork
was tho principal object of my survey ; but
I was denirous to ascend the south branch,
with a view of obtaining some astronomical
positidUH, and determining the mouths of its
tributaries as far as St. \ rain's fort, estimat-
ed to be some two hundred miles further up
tho river, and near to Ijong's peak. There
i hoped to obtain some mules, which I found
would 1)0 necessary to relieve my horses. In i
military point of view, F was desirous to form
Bomc opinion of the country relative 'o the es-
tablishment of posts on a line conntctingthc
settlements with the south pass of the
Rocky mountains, liy way of tiie Arkansas
and tho south and Laramie forks of tho
i'latte. Crossiii" tiie country northwest-
wardly from St. Vrain's fort, to the Ameri-
can company's fort at the mouth of the La-
ramie, would give me some acquaintance
with the nfHucnts which head in the moun-
tains between tho two ; I therefore deter-
mined to net out the next morning, accompa-
nied by Mr. Preuss and four men, Maxwell,
Bernier, Ayot, and Basil Lajeunesso. Our
Cheyennes, whose village lay up this river,
also decided to accompany us. The party I
left in chiiryi' of (Element Lambert, with or-
ders to cross to the north fork ; and at some
convenient place, near to the Coulie des
Frtnci^, make a cache of everything not ab-
solutely necessary to tho further progress
of our expedition. From this point, using
the most guanicd precaution in his march
through the country, he was to proceed to
tho American company's fort at the mouth
of the Ijiramie's fork, and await my arrival,
which would be prior to the 16th, as on that
and the following night would occur some
occtiltations which I was desirous to obtain
at that place.

July 6. — Before breakfast all was ready.
We had one led horse in addition to those
V de, and a packed mule, destined to car-
ry our instruments, provisions, and baggage ;
the last two articles hot being of very great
weight. ') he instruments consisted of a
sextant, artificial horizon, &c., a barometer,
spy glass, and compass. The chronometer I
of course kept on my person, I had ordered
the cook to put up for us some flour, coffee,
and sugar, and our rifles were to furnish the
rest. One blanket, in addition to his saddle
and saddle blanket, furnished the materials
for each man's bod, and every one was pro-
vided with a change of linen. All were
armed with rifles or double barrelled guns ;
and, in addition to these, Maxwell and my-
self were famished with excellent pistols.
Thus accoutred, we took a parting breakfast
with our friends, and set forth.

Our joiirni'y the first day iiffDrdid nothing
of any iiitercHf. We shot a bufllilo toward
sunset, and having obtained some meat for
our evening meal, encamped where a little
timber aflorded us the means of making a
tire. Having disposed our moat on roasting
sticks, we proceeded to unpack our bales in
search of coiTeo and siigur, and flour for
bread. With tho exception of a little parch-
ed colFce, unground, we found nothing. Our
cook had neglected to put it up, or it had
been somehow forgotten. Tireil and hun-
gry, with tough bull meat without salt (for
we had not been ablo to kill a cow), and a
little bitter coffee, wo sat down in silence to
our miserable fare, a very disconsolate narty ;
for yesterday's feast was yet fre.sh in our
memories, and this was our Hrst brush with
misfortune. Each man took his blanket,
and laid himself down silently ; for the worst
part of these mishaps is, that they make
people ill-humored. To-day wo had travel-
led about thirty-six miles.

July 6. — Finding that our present excur-
sion would be attended with considerable
hardship, and unwilling to expose more per-
sons than necessary, I determined to send
Mr. Preuss back to the party. His horse,
too, appeared in no condition to support tho
journey ; and accordingly, after breakfast,
lie took the road across the hills, attended
by one of my most trusty men, Bernier. The
ridge between the rivers is here about fifteen
miles broad, and I expected he would proba-
bly strike the fork near their evening camp.
At all events ho would not fail to find their
trail, and rejoin them the ne.xt day.

We continued our journey, seven in num-
ber, including the three Cfheyennes. Our
general course was southwestj'up tho valley
of the river, which was sandy, bordered on
the northern side of the valley by a low
ridge ; and on the south, after seven or eight
miles, the river hills became higher. Six
miles from our resting place we crossed the
bed of a considerable stream, now entirely
dry — a bed of sand. In a grove of willows,
near the mouth, were the remains of a con-
siderable fort, constructed of trunks of largo
trees It was apparently very old, and had
probably been the scene of some hostile en-
counter among the roving tribes. Its soli-
tude formed an impressive contrast to the
picture which our imaginations involunta-
rily drew of the busy scene which had been
enacted here. The timber appeared to have
been much more extensive formerly than
now. There were but few trees, a kind of
long-leaved willow, standing ; and numerous
trunks of large treep were scattered about
on the ground. In many similar places I
had occasion to remark an apparent progres-
sive decay in the timber. 'Ten miles far-
ther we reached the month of Lodge Pols

CAPT. FUKMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1849

i •

creek, a clear ami hamliiomo wtrram, rim-
ning thrniigh a broad valley. In its roiirro
throii^'li tiio bottom it ban a iinirorin breadth
ol twi iity-lwo I'wt, and cix inches in depth.
A few willimi on llu* iHiiika vtrike |ilpaHaril-
ly on tbf (•)•»', by llu'ir preennons, in the
niidxt ot llii> hot niid Imrrvn nandii.

The amiir/litt wiih fri'»iuent amonfr the
ravinri), but the »unfl«)wcr (hrlianthuii) wan
the rburnctoribtic ; and llowern of deep
warm colon* Koem inont to lovo the nandy
Hoii. The impre!<Hion of the country trivolb'd
over toHJuy was one of dry and barren nandM.
VVo turned in towardi the river at noon,
and gave our horeea two hourn for fo«Kl and
rent. I had no other thermometer tbiiii the
one attached to the barometer, which nlood
at 89°, the height of tiio column in the ba-
n)meter Iwing 26.5236 at meridian. T lo sky
was clear, with a high wind from the Houth.
At U, we continued our journey ; the wind
liad mcMlcratcd, and it jjccame HlrnoHt uncFi-
durably hot, and our animals 8u(1i.>red severe-
,'y. In the course of the afteri;oun, tJio wind
ro8C suddenly, and blew hard from tlie south-
west, with thunder and lightning, and squallit
of rain ; these were blown against us with
violence by the wind ; and, halting, wc
turned our backs to the storm until it blew
over. Antelope were tolerably frequent,
with a large grey hare ; but the former wore
ahy, and the fatter hardly worth the delay of
stopping to shoot them ; so, as the evening
drew near, we again had recourse to an old
bull, and encamped at sunset on un island in
the Platte.

We ate our meat with a good relish this
evening, for we were all in imc health, and
had ridden nearly all of a long summer's
day, with a burning sun reflected from the
sands. My companions slept rolled up in
iheir blankets, and the Indians lay in the
grass near the fire *, but my sleeping place
generally bad an air of more pretension.
Our rifles were tied together near the muz-
zle, the butts resting on the ground, and a
knife laid on the rope, to cut away in case
of an alarm. Over this, which made a kind
of frame, was thrown a large India rubber
cloth, which we used to cover our packs.
This made a tent sufliciently large to receive
about half of my bed, and was a place of
shelter for my instruments ; and as I was
careful always to put this part against the
wind, I could lie here with a sensation of
satislied enjoyment, and hear the wind blow,
and the rain patter close to my head, and
know that I should be at least half dry.
Certainly I never slept more soundly. The
barometer at sunset was 26.010, thermome-
ter Si", and cloudy : but a gale from the
west sprang up with the setting sun, and
in a few mmutes swept away every cloud
from the sky. The evening was very fine,

and I remained up lo take some astronomi-
cal oliHcnutions, which made our position
in latitude •IU<' 61' 17", and longitude 103*
07' 00".

Jiilu 7. — At our camp this morning, at C
oVIiMK, the buromoter was at !i6 1M3, ther-
mometer 60°, and clear, with a light wind
from the Boutlnvest. The pant niuht bud
been 8(|uallv, with high windi«, and occasion-
ally a few drops of ruin. Our cooking did
not (M'cupy nincli lime, and wo I'Mt cnmp
early. Nothing of interest occurred during
the morning. The siimo dreary bnrronness,
except that a linrd nuirly clay imd replacc'l
the Hiindy foil. IluHalo absolutely covered the
plain on lN>th sidcH the river, and whenever
wo ascended the liillti, scattered herds gave
lite to the view in every direction. A small
drove of wild lior8eit made their appenranco
on the low river bottoms, a mile or two to
the leK, and I cent olV une o. the Indians
(who seemed very eager to cut . (i one) on my
led horse, u spirited and fleet animal. Tho
savage muniruvrcd a littlo to get the wind
of the hordes, in which he succeeded — ap-
proaching within a hundred yards without
wing discovered. The chase lor a few
minutes was interetiting. My hunter easily
overtook and (uiiised the hindmoht of the wild
drove, which the Indian did not attempt to
lasso; all his eflR<rt8 being directed to tho
capture of the leader. But the strength of
the horse, weakened by the insuflicient nour-
ishment of grass, failed in a race, anii all the
drove escaped. Wc halted at noon on the
bank of the river, the barometer at that time
being 26.102, and the thermometer 103'^,
with a light air from the south, and clear
weather.

In the course of the afternoon, dust rising
among the hills at a particular ilace, at-
tracted our attention ; and, riding up, wc
found a band of eighteen or twenty bufialo
bulls engaged in a desperate fight. Though
butting and goring were bestowed liberally,
and without distinction, yet their efl'orts were
evidently directed against one — a huge gaunt
old bull, very lean, while his adversaries
were all fat and in good order. lie appeared
very weak, and had already received some
wounds, and, while we were looking on, was
several times knocked down and badly hurt,
and a very few moments would have put an
end to him. Of course, we took the side of
the weaker party, and attacked the herd ; but
they were so blind with rage, that they
fought on, utterly regardless of our presence,
although on foot and on horseback we were
firing m open view within twenty yards of
them. But thia did not last long. In a very
few seconds, we created a commotion among
them. One or two, which were knocked
over by the balls, jumped up ind ran off into
the hills ; and they began. tQ iptreat alowlj

»l|

Hll
h{
ill

bil

til

[164a

ne astronomi-
our position
ngiiuilc 103*

lorninjf, at 6
iti 1H3, ther-

liffllt Willi/

niuht Imii
11(1 nccuHion.
cookiiif,' did

l"tl cnmp
rrcd during
bfirrt'iinoBH,

iiid roplftcc'J
' covcit'd the
J whenever
herds (fave
'^- A Rinull
«|»pcaranco
' or two to
tliu Iiidiiiiid
one) on my
imul. The
t tlio wind
pcdod — nf)-
■df without
lor a few
nt»>r canily
of the wild
attempt to
ted to the
treii^tii of
cient noiir-
anJ all the
on on the
t tliat time
otor 103",
and clear

lust rising
ilaro, at-
igr <ip, we
ty buffalo

Though

liberally,
Forte were
iige gaunt
Ivcrsaries
appeared
t'ed some
g on, was
idly hurt,
e put an
e side of
»erd ; but
hat they
Jresence,
we were
yards of
In a very
n among

1 off into
t alowlj

1843.

CAPT. FRKMONT'S NARRATIVE.

along a broad ravine to the river, fighting
furiously as thoy went. Hy the time thev
had reached the tmttom, we had pretty well
disncrRcd them, and the old bull hobbled off
to lie down somewhere. One of his enemies
remained on the ground where we had firHt
Hred uixin them, and we Htopped there for a
short tune to cut fn»ni him some meat fr)r our
Hupper. Wo had neglected to Hecuro our
horneN, thinking it an uinieccsHary precaution
in their fatigued condition ; but our mule
took it into nin head to start, and away he
went, followed at full speed by the pack
liorHe, with all the baggage and inntrumenls
on his back. They were recovered and
brought back, after a chafie of a mile. For-
tunately, everything was well secured, no
that nothing, not even the barometer, was in
the least injured.

The sun was getting low, and some nar-
row lines of timl)er fcur or live mil<!3 distant
promised us a pleasunt ciiinp, where, with
plenty of wood for (ire, and comfortable shel-
ter, and rich grass for our animals, we should
find clear cool sprinifs, instead of the warm
water of the Platte. On our arrival, we
found the bod of a stroatn fifty to one hun-
dred feet wide, sunk soinn thirty feet below
the level of the prairie, w ith perpendicular
banks, bordered by n fringe of green cotton-
wootl, but not a drop of water. There were
several small forks to tlie stream, all in the
same condition With the e.vception of the
Platte bottom, the cotmtry seemed to be of a
clay formation, dry, and perfectly devoid of
any moisture, and baked hard by the sun.
Turning off towards the river, we reached the
bank in about a mile, and were delighted to
find an old tree, with thick foliage and
spreading branches, where we encamped.
At sunset, the barometer was at 25.950,
thermometer 81°, with a strong wind fromS.
20® E., and the sky partially covered with
heavy masses of cloud, which settled a little
towards the horizon by 10 o'clock, leaving it
sufficiently clear for astronomical ob.=erva-
tions, which placed us in latitude 40° 33' 20",
and longitude 103" 30' 37".

July 8. — The morning was very pleasant.
The breeze was fresh from S. .50° E. with
few clouds; the barometer at o'clock stand-
itig at 25.970, and the thermometer at 70°.
Hiiicc leaving the forks, our route had p.issed
over a country alternately clay and sand,
each presenting the same naked waste. On
leaving camp this morning, we struck again
a sandy region, in which the vegetation ap-
peared somewhat more vigorous than that
which we had observed for tne last few days ;
and on the opposite side of the river were
some tolerably la'rge groves of timber.

Journeying along, we came suddenly upon
a place where the ground was covered with
horses' tracks, which had been made since

the rain, and indicated the immediate pros-
ence of Indians in our neighborhiuMl. The
bufrnio, too, which the day iHjforo had been so
numerous, were nowhere in sight— another
sure indication that there were |)eoplo near.
Riding on, wo discovered the carcass of a
butliilo recently killed — perhaps the day be-
fore. We scanned the horizon carefully
with the glass, but no living object was to be
seen. For the ne.vt mile or two, the ground
was dotted with biitfilo carcasses, which
showed tliat the Indians had made a surround
here, ami were in considerable force. We
went on quickly and cautiously, keening the
river lK)ftom, and carefully avoiding liio hills ;
but we met with no interruption, and began
(o grow careless again. We had already
lost one of our horses, niid here Rasii's mule
sh ,»e(l Hyinptoms of <.'iving out, and finally
refused toadvanc-\lMing what the Canadians
call r^N//. lie therefore dismounted, and
drove her along before him; but this was a
very slow way of travelling. We hsd inad-
verteiitly got about half a mile in advance,
but our Cheyennes, who were generally a
mile or two iii the rear, remained with him.
There were some dark-looking objects among
tlie hills, about two miles to f lie left, here low
and undulating, which wo had seen for a
little time, and supposed to lie buffalo coming
in to water: but, happening to lookliehind.
Maxwell saw the Cheyennes whipping up
furiously, and another glance at the dark
objects showed them at once to bo Indians
coming up at speed.

Had we been well mounted, and disen-
cumbered of instruments, we might have set
them at defiance ; but as it was, we were
fairly caught. It was too late to rejoin our
friends, and we endeavored to gain a clump
of timber about half a mile ahead; but the
instruments and the tired state of our horses
did not allow us to go faster than a steady
canter, and they were gaining on us fast.
At first, they did not appear to be more than
fiileen or twenty in numlwr, but group afler
group darted into view at the top of the hills,
until all the little eminences seemed in mo-
tion, and, in a few minutes from the time
they were first discovered, two or three hun-
dred, naked to the breech cloth, were sweep-
ing across the prairie. In a few hundred
yards we discovered that the timber we were
endeavoring to make was on the opposite
side of the river ; and before we could reach
the bunk, down came the Indians upon us.

I am inclined to think that in a few sec-
onds more the leading man, and perhapa
some of his companions, would have rolled
in the dust ; for we had jerked the coven
from our guns, and our fingers were on the
triggers; men in such cases generally act
from instinct, and a charge from three hun-
dred naked savages is a circumstance not

CAIT. FRKMONT'H NARRATIVE.

[1843.

'■i

well c»Ic»iIi»1«hI ti> prj)mot«' a c«k»I pxpn-im' of

iiulgment. JiiM. mi ho wtn about to tin*,
luxwrli rocnffiiizod the londin|; Imliuii, ■ml
■lioiitfHl t(» him in the liidinii lan(;iiii)n*>
" You'ro a lool, (i — ilHinii yoii, don't von
know me ?" 'I'ho t>oiiiid o( \m own fiin-
Kiiii(fC HiMMned to xliiH'k tlip Kuvit)fi\ and,
iiwiTvin;? Iiin horK«' a littlo, ho pn:<!icd ui* like
an arrow, lie wIiim'UmI, n» I nnli' out toward
him, and (fnvo me hi.-* hiuul, ntrikiii;; Imh
brooMf luid oxclaiiniiig " .\m|w»li6 I" T!i«»y
prnvo<| Id Ik* n villi«)»o ot" ihHt MHtion, Hmonjf
whom Mnxwt'll Imd roMidi'd iih a tn«d«*rtt your
or two previonHJy, and roi'oijniiod him nr-
cordinply. Wo wore wv)n in llic inidnl of
llio l>anu, niiKWi.'rinjj as woll n« wo ooiild a
innltitiidp of rjuoRtionH ; of which the vory
first was, (»f what trilx- wore our Indian roin-
panionfl who wore cominjr in tho roar .' Thoy
ijoomed diNi«ppoiiitc«l t(» know that thoy won'
Chcyennon, for thoy hail fully antiriptod a
(fraud danco around ii Pawnoc nculp t hat nijrht.
The chief .sliowod us his villiipo at a grove
on the river si.x niilc« ahoad, and pointed out
a band of biiflulo on the otiier nide of the
IMatto, immediately oppo.sito no, which he
said they were poing to surround, Tl>ey had
seen the Imnd early in the morning from ttieir
village, and hwl l)ecn making a large cirou it,
to avoid givinc them the wind, wl>on thoy
discovered us. Ii.a few minutes the woiih'ii
came galloping up, astride on their horses,
and nuked from lieir knees down, and the
hips up. Thoy Udlowod the men, to assiut
in ctifting np and carryinjr off tho moat.

The wind was blowing direclly across tlic
river, and the chief reqiiosted nsto halt whore
we were for awhile, in order to avoid rai.>*ing
the herd. We therefore unsaddletl our horses,
and eat down on the Ixink to view the scene ;
and our new acquaintances rodo a few hun-
dred yards lower down, and began crossing
the river. Scores of wild-looking dogs fol-
lowed, looking like troops of wolves, and
having, in fact, but very little of the dog in
their composition. Some of them remained
with us, and I checked one of tho men, wliom
I found aiming at one, which he was about to
kill for a wolt; The day had Iwcome very
hot. The air was clear, with a very slight
breeze ; and now, at 12 o'clock, while the ba-
rometer stood at 25.920, the attached thermo-
meter was at lOS". OurCheyenne^ had learn-
ned that with the Arapaho village were about
twenty lodges of theirown, including theirown
families ; they therefore immediately com-
menced making their toilette. After bathing in
the river, they invested themselves in some
handsome calico shirts, which I afterward
learned they had stolen from my own men, and
spent some time in arranging their hair and
painting themselves with some vermilion I
had ^iven them. While they were engaged
in this satisfactory manner,one of their half-

wild homes, to which the cnmd of prancing
nnimiils which had jiiNt paMMod had recallod
tho treodom of hor p.vistonce among the wild
droves on the prairio, suddenly dashed into
tho hillt at the top of her speed. She wi«
their pack horse, and had on hor back all thn
worldly wealth of our noor (.'hoyeniioH, all
llioir accoiitremcntH, anil all the little articles
which thoy had picked u|) among us, with
Noine few prosents I had given them. Tho
loss which thoy seomod to n'grel nn)>t wore
llioir H|)oars and shiolils, und mmiio tobacco
which thoy had received from mo. However,
they l)oro it all with the philosophy of an In-
dinn, and laughingly continued llieir toilette.
Thoy appeared, however, a little mortified at
the (lioiight of returning to tho village in such
a sorry iilight. " Our |)eople will laugh at
us," said oi!L» of them, " returning to the vil-
la;|o on f«)«>t, instead of driving buck a drove
of Pawnee horses." lie demanded tu know
if 1 loved my sorrel hunter very much ; to
which I replied, he was the object of my
most intense aflection. Far from being aide
to give, I was ntyself in want of horses; and
any suggestion of parting with the few I had
valuable, was met with a (Msremptory refusal.
In the meantime, the slaughter was about to
commence on the other side. So soon as
thoy reached it, tho Indians separated into
two bodies. One party proceeded directly
across the prairio, towanu the hills, in an
extended line, while the other went np tlx
river ; and instantly as they had given the
wind to tho herd, the chase cuminenced. Tiu
buflklo s»artod for the hills, but were inter
ce|)tcd and driven back toward tho river
broken and running in every direction. Th«
clouds of dust soon covered the whole aceno
preventing us from having any but an occa
.'^ional view. It had a very singular appear
ancc to us at a distance, especially \vhc»
looking with the glass. Wc were too far U,
hear the report of the guns, or any sound ,
and at every instant, through the clouds of
dust, which the sun made luminous, wc could
see for a moment two or tliree buft'alo dushins
along, and close behind them an Indian with
his long spear, or other weapon, and instantlr
again tliey disappeared. The apparent et-
lence, and the dimly seen figures flitting by
with such rapidity, gave it a kind of dreamy
eftcct,and seemed more like a picture than a
scene of real life. It had been a large herd
when the ceme commenced, probably three
or four hundred in number ; but, though I
watched them closely, I did not see one
emerge from the fatal cloud where the work
of destruction was going on. After remain
ing here about an hour, we resumed our
journey in the direction ot the village.

Graduc'.y, as we rode op. ludian after In-
dian came dropping along, 44an with meat ;
and by the time we hwi '/ixd the lodges,

' of prune iiiff
Imd n>coll«>d
Kmg the wild
•IhkIicJ iiiui
i. Nlio wn
' back (ill tim
oyoiiiiDH, all
little* iirtjcloii
"»ff iiH, with
il"Mn. 'I'ho

I inost W(«ro
•»« tobacco
. Iluwover,
hy of nri fii.
leir toilette,
rnortitiod at
ago in such

II lau(;li at
', to the vil-
ick ft drove
B«l to know
much ; to
set of my
Iwing aljjo
ornoH ; and

few I had
ry refiiHal.
H about to

» Boon BH

rati'd into
il directly
Hh, in UM
'It np th(
fiven the
fd. TJu
re inter
»u river
)n. Thi
accno
in coca
appear
y whe»
w fark

sound ,
)uda of
'0 couW
iushing
in with
stantir
cnt Bt.
ing by
reanfiy
than a
e herd

three
ugh I

* one

work
main
our

Jr In-
neat;

1819]

CAIT. F11E.M()NT'M NARRATIVE.

^^.

the J(««'kward road wa« cnvoriMJ with llio m-
turnin({ horxflintMi. It wnH a ploHximl con-
traitt with tliu dortcrt roail wt^ had Uumi trav-
elling. Httvnral hud joined rouiimny with
UN, and one of the cJiii'lM invited hh to hii«
lodge. The villag** miHi.HaMl of alKtut one
hundred and Iwfuly-live lodgex, of which
Iwi'iity wore ''hi'yt'nncH ; the latter pitcliod
a littu" uparf from the AnipulioeH. 'I'licy
were diH|»<Med in a Hcattering nmnnoron boin
nidoH of a broiid irrei^ulur Mtroct, atM>ut one
hundred and fifty fuct wide, and running
along the river. Ah wo rode along, I re-
marked near Koino of the lod^fen a kind of
tripod frame, formed of three alender poleitof
hirch, scraped very cleati, to which were
affixed the riliield and Hnear, with noine other
ureiipons of a chief. All were nrruiiuloii^ly
clean, the upear head wan hurniNlied bright,
and the shield white and Htaiulettrt. It re-
minded mo of the dayit of feudal chivalry ;
and when, aa I rode by, I yielded to the pasH-
iug impulru;, and toiicliod one of the rt|M)tle8tt
Hineldi with the miizzio of my gun, I almost
expected a grim warrior to uUrt from the
lodge and icHcnt my cli.iUenge. 'I'lie maHter
of the lodge Hprciid riut a rube for mo to ait
upon, and the nquawa set before un a la -go
wiMxlen dish of bullulo meat. Ho had IJiIh
ui|)u in the mean while, and when it had
(icen paxaed around, we c^tinmcnced our din-
ner while he cimtinucd to nmoke. Grad-
ually, five or six other chiefs came in, and
look their seats in Hilence. When we had
finished, our host asked a number of ques-
tions rclativo to the object of our journey, of
which I nude no concealment ; telling him
simply that 1 had made a visit to see the
country, preparatory to the establishment of
lailitary (Kislfl on the way to the mountaius.
Although this was information of the high-
est interest to Ihem, and by no means calcu-
lated to please them, it excited no expres-
sion of surprise, and in no way altered the
grave conrtesy of their demeanor. The
others listened and smoked. I remarked,
that io tiking tlie pipe for the first time,
each had turned the stem upward, with u
rapid glance, as in offering to the Great
tSpirit, before he put it in his mouth. A
etorm had been gathering for Uie past hour,
and some pattering drops on the lodge
warned us that we had some miles to our
camp. Some Indian had given Maxwell a
bundle of dried meat, which was very ac-
ceptable, as we had nothing; and, springing
upon uur horses, we rode off at dusk in the
f.icc of a cold sliower and driving wind.
We found our companions under some
densely foliaged old trees, about three miles
up tlie river. Under one of them lay the
trunk of a large cotton-wood, to leeward of
which the men had kindled a fire, and we
aat here and roasted our meat in tolerable

shelter. Nearly oppo»ife wan the month of
one of the most considerable aflluents of the
South fork, Itt t'nurche aux ('(inlDn (Beaver
fork), heading ofT in the ridge to the south*
east.

July U. — This morning we caught the
first faint glinmse of the Rocky mountains,
alHXit sixty miles distant. Though a t(der-
ably bright day, there was a slight mist, and
we were just able to discern the snowy sum-
mit of " Ixing's (K>ak" (" Ir-s deux oreilluM "
of the ('anadiaiiH), showing like a small
cloud nr>ar the horizon. I found it easily
distingui-4|iable, there being a |)orceptible
dillereuee in its upiH-aranco from the white
clouds that were floating aliout the sky. i
was plea-ted to find (hat among the traders
and voyageurs the name of " Long's peak "
had \teon adopted and l)ec(Hne familiar in the
country. In the ravines near this place, a
light brown sandstone made ita first appear-
ance. About 8, we discerned several per-
sons on horseback a mile or two ahead, on
the op|K)site side of the river. They turned
in towards the river, and we rode down to
meit them. We found them to bo two
white men, and a mulatt<i named Jim Deck-
with, who had left St. Louis when a boy,
and gone to live with the Crow Indians.
lie had distinguished himself among them
by some acts of diiring bravery, and had
risen to tlie rank of a chief, but had now, fur
Home years, left them. They were in search
of a band of horses that had gone olF from a
camp some miles abcvc, in charge of Jlr.
Chabonard. Two of them continued down
the river, in search of the horses, and the
American turned back with us, and wo rode
on towards the camp. Abput eight mile*
from our sleeping place we reached Dijon's
fork, an affluent of^ the right bank. Where
we crossed it, a short distance from the
I*U,tte, it hae a sandy bed about four hun-
dred yards broad ; the water in various
small streams, a few inches deep. Seven
miles further brought us to a camp of some
four or five whites (New Englandcrs, I be-
lieve), who had accompanied Captain Wyeth
to the Columbia river, and were independent
trapiters. All had their squaws with them,
and I was really surprised at the number of
little fat bufHilo-fed boys that were tumbling
about the camp, all apparently of the same
age, about three or four years old. They
were encamped on a rich bottom, covered
with a profusion of fine grass, and had a
large number of fine-looking iiorscs and
mules. We rested with them a few min-
utes, and in about two miles arrived at Cha-
bonard*s camp, on an island in the Platte.
On the heights above, we met the first Span-
iard I had seen in the country. Mr. Chabo-
nard was in the servi' * of Bent and St
Vrain's company, and liad left their fort

CWT. rilKMONT'S NARRATIVK.

[I84f.

■nme forty or fifty milon iiJiovi', in lln* uprinij.
with boAtii ladHi) with tint fiirM of lli<* IhhI
ynar'i trado. lie had met the ■■tn<< lortiirio
M thn voy«iri'un« on thn North lork, mid,
lh)dini( it itii|MiNi«il)l«* to proceed, hud tiiki'ii
up hifl i«unim«>r'i( nmidonro on thii* iMlmid,
which hfl had nnmi'd St. ilcliMiii. Tho
river hill* apiioArrd to \n' roiniKwcd nitirt'ly
of sand, and the I'latto had h>Ht the niiiddy
charncti'r ol itH watcrH, and hero wuh tolrr-
ably rli'iir. From iho mouth of tlio Smith
forK, I had found it (MTiiAiDiiiilly hrokon up
by nmall iiilandN ; and ut Iho tinit^ of our
journry, wliicli wax at a hcmihoii of the your
when tho waters were at a fiivorahlo Htn|re,
it wai not naviffablo for anything' drawiii);
•ix inchcH water. The current was very
iwitt — the 1; d of the ntrenin a coarHe (jruvel.

From the plaro at which we had eiicoiin-
tPfcd the ArapahoeH, the I'latte had Ihm>ii
tnloralily well frin^red with timlier, and the
iaiand hero had a tine grove of very lar;re
cotton-woodi), under whtwe hroad whade tlie
lenta were pitched. There wa.i a hirjje
drove of horriCH in the o|)|xwite pmirie bot-
tom ; amoke was riHing from the xcattcred
tiren, and the encampment had (piitc a pa-
ti'iarciial air. Mr. (.'. received us huHpitii-
bly. One of the people wua tient to gather
mint, with the aid of which ho concocted
very good julep; and homu l)oiled hMlTiilo
tongue, and coffee with the luxury of Hiigiir,
were soon set before u*. Tlie |M'opIe in hiH
employ were generally SimninrdH, and
among them I saw a young SihuuhIi woman
from Taos", whom I found to Ihj Beckwith'a
wife.

July 10. — We parted with our hoHpitahie
ho8t alter breakfaat tho next morning, and
reached St. Vrain'H Fort, aljout forty-live
miles from St. Helena, late in tho evening.
This post is pitiiated on the Sou *< fork of
the I'latte, immediately under the moun-
tains, altout seventeen miles cast of liong's
peak. It is on the right bank, on the verge
of tho upland prairie, about forty feet alwve
the river, of which the immcdintn valley is
about six hundred yardb wide. The Htreain
is divided into various branches by stniill
islands, among which it runs with a swift
current. The bed of the river is sand and
gravel, the water very clear, and here may
be called a mountain stream. This region
appears to be entirely free from the lime-
stones and marls which give to the Lower
Platte its yellow and dirty color. The Black
liijls lie between the stream and the moun-
tains, whose snowy peaks glitter a few
milps beyond. At the fort we found AFr. St.
Vrain, who received us with much kindness
and hospitality. Maxwell had spent the last
two or three years between this post and the
village of Taos ; and here he was at home,
•nd among his friends. Spaniards frequently

come over in search of rmploymoiit ; and
Kt'veral came in shortly after onr an-ivai.
They usually obtain about aix dollars a
month, generally paid to them in irnnds.
They are very useful in a camn, in taking
care of lionet and mules ; nna I engagf d
one, who proved to Im< an active, laborious
niiin, and wbh of very considerahle aervire
to me. The elevatiim of the Platte here is
live thousand four hundred feet atMivo Iho
xea. The neighlioriiig niounta:ns did not
ap|M<nr to enter far tho ri'gion of |N<r|)otual
Mnow. which was genenilly conHne<l to tlie
northern side of the iieak.t. (hi the south-
ern, I remarked very little. Here it appear-
ed, so ftr us I could judge in the diNtaorr,
to descend but a few liundred feet below the
KuniiiiitH. •

I regretted that time did not permit me to
visit them ; but the proper object of my sur-
vey lay among the inountaiiiH iiirther north ;
and I looked forward to an exploration of
Iheir snowy recet'ses with great pleasure.
The piney regiiui of the mountains to tlio
south was envelop«Ml in smoke, and I was
informed had been on tire lor several months.
I'ike's peak is said to be visible from this
place, about one hundred miles to tho south-
wani ; but the smoky state <if tho atmospher«>
|)reventod my seerig it. 'I'he weather con-
tinued overcast during my stay here, so I'lat
I failed in detennining the latitude, but ol>-
tained good obriorvations for time on thn
mornings of the llth and I'Jth. An assum-
ed latitude of HP '22' 30" fr„m tho evening
position of tho 12th, enal.,. .1 mo to obtain,
for a tolerably correct longitude, 106° 12'
l:i".

July I a.— The kindness of Mr. St. Vrain
had enabled me to obtain a couple of horses
and three goo<l mules ; and, with a further
addition to our |);irty of tho Spaniard whom
I had hired, and two others, who were going
to obtain service at ] ^ramie's fork, wo re-
sumed «)ur journey at 10, on the morning o(
the I'itli. Wo had been able to procure
nothing at tho p<i8t, in the way of provision.
An exacted supply from Taos had not yet
arrived, and a few pfiunds of coffee was all
thtit could be spared to us. In addition to
this, wo had dried meat enough for the first
day ; on the next, we ex|)ected to find buf-
falo. From this jMwf, according to the esti-
mate of the country, the fort at the mouth
of Laramie's fork, which was our next
pciint of destination, was nearly due north,
distant about one hundred and twenty-five
miles.

For a short distance, our road lay down
the valley of the Platte, which resembled a
garden in the splendor of fields of varied
flowers, which filled the air with fragrance.
The only timber I noticed, consisted of pop-
lar, birch, cotton-wood, and willow, fa

•Old

Tl.^
b'lil

fl84t.

184:^.1

CAl'T. FKHMUNTS NAUKATIVK.

'incut ; and
Hir aHvai.
I ilnllara a

I ill I^VHtll.

t. in takino

*, lahiirioiia
l)|p »orviro
•itt«' lirro lit
afnivo J ho
tiri tijd not
f |M'rpotiiHl
ihmI In tli(>

tilC KOIllll-

• it appear*
' (iJNiaDro,

bt'low the

rmit mo to
i)f my 8nr-
her north ;
lorntion of

pleasiiro.
inH to thti
md I waa
lil monthfl.
from thiH
tho Hoiith-
Imospiiero
ithcr con-
re, 8o t'mt
0, but oIh
e on tho
n nnNum*
» evpninjr
o ohtain,

lOS" 12'

St. Vrain
)f horHcs

* further
rd whom
re gninft
, wo re-
irning of

procure
'ovision.
not yet
was ull
ition to
the first
nd buf>
16 esti-

mouth
next

north,

ty-five

Y down

bled a

varied
france.
)f pop.
r. U

•(>m(.<thin(( Iph^ thun tliri>i> niilt'H, wo croHticd
Tliiiuip«ou'ii crcok, diu* ot the iillliiinlN lothi'
Infl huuk ol tho Suilh lork--ii liuf* r<trcuui
kImmU Mixty-li\c li'«-t sviilt', iiiiii llirt'o U-ot
duo|), JuurnoyiiiK on, tho Invv dark hue of
tho niuck hilix ly 111:1 liotASfoti Ui4 iiml tho
miiuutiiiuM to tho li'ti, III iiluoit It'll iiiih-H
from iho Itirl, wo ri'tichcd Cuihr a hi I'mttlrf,
whoro wo hikllod to noon. 'I'hiH ix ii vory
bvuuliliil moiii.tiiiu htrruiii, hIhjiii utn' hiiii-
drod loot wide, ll(i\viii;r with ii lull .^wilt cur-
rent uvor ii riH-ky ImmI. Wo liultod iiiulor
tho Hhiido of Noiiio t'otlDii-wiMNlH, with mIiIcIi
tho Htroaiu ii* wiMNlod h('iiti('riii).'ly. In tho
upiior purl of itH ooiirio, it rnii-' iiinid tho
wildoitl luoiiiituiii ht'onory, niiil. Iiroiikiii);
tliroii(;h tho niiuk hiiln, fullH inio tho I'latto
al)out ton miles In'Iiiw tliiH pliico. in tlio
ruuTHO of our hito juiiriK y, I liud iiiiiiiii^rd
to hccoiuo ihi; |>oKH0M.ior ol u vory iiiitrnctu-
bio miil(< — II p<'rloct vixen — iiiid hor I hiul
tiirnod over to my Spiiuiiird. It occiipii>d iih
al)out half un hour to-day to jrot tho Hiidtllo
apon licr; hut, oiicv on lior huok, Jop^ciuild
nut bo diHiiioiinlod, ruuli/.iiiir liio uccoinitH
givon of Mexican horHo.s niiil horHoi!iaii>lii|i ;
and wo continued our route in the ufler-
nuon.

At evening, we nicamiiod on Crow (/)
rrcuk, huvin}( travelled alMuit twenty-ei^rht
miles. None of the parly wei»( well iic-

auaiiitod with the country, niul I had ^reat
itliculty ill aRcertainiii^ what wero the
nainoH of llio HlroHins we cros.xod hetween
tho North and South fork^ of the I'latte.
Thia I Hupnosed to be Crow ortok. It in
what Ih culled a Hall Htreuiii, and the water
stands in |)ooIh, having no continuous coiirue.
A tine-grained HuiidHtoiie nia.lo itrt ap))ear-
anco in tho bankn. Tho oh-ervatioiiN of the
night placed un in latitiule 4()o 42', longi-
tude 104° 67' 40". 'I'he haroincler at wiin-
set was 25.231 ; attnchod thermometer at
6G*>. tSky clear, e.\cept in the east, with a
liglit wind from tho north.

Julu 13. — There being no wood hero, we
used last night the ^oi's de vache, which is
vory plentifiii. At our camp this morning,
the barometer was at 25.235 ; tho attached
thermometer G0°. A few clouds were mov-
ing througli a deep blue sky, with a light
wind from the west. After a ride of twelve
miles, in a northerly direction, over a plain
covered with innumerable quantities of cacti,
we reached a small creek in which there was
water, and where several herds of bufliilo
were scattered about among the ravines,
which always aSbrd good pasturage. We
seem now to be passing along Uie base of a
plateau of the Black huls, in which ttie for-
mation consists of marls, some of them white
and laminated ; the country to the left rising
suddenly, and falling ofT gradually and uni-
formly to the right. In five or six miles of

n iiorllioaiiterly coiiri*o, wn ulriirk a hi^h
riilijo, liriikoii into conical |NMiki4, on wIioko
NUiiitnitN largo iHiiililirM wore gutlicred in
lieapM, The iniigiielic direction ol the ridge
i>« iiorlhweMt and noiilhiuitt, tho glittering
wliitoof itN precipitniiMniileH niiiking it viNible
for many iiiiIoh to the Hiuitli. It iH ( iiiii|Hmi>d
of a Hdil I'lirtliy Iniie-tinio and inailM, roMom-
blin<: tlmt, lieri'iillor doKcriliod, in tho neigh-
iMirliiiciij of the < 'liiiniiey rork, on llio North
fork of the I'lattr.niMily worked by thi> Mind*
and ruiii*i, and HometiineH inoiildid into very
faiitai«tic Hha|ioH. At tho lontol the northerr
mIo|m' was tin- lu'd of a iTi'ok, mhiio Inrty teet
wiile, cniiiing, by freiiiimt laiU, Irmn the
Im-iicIi hImivo. It was mIiiiI in by high |)er-
poiiiliciilar liiinks, in which were ftrala ol
white laminated marl. Its bed was perlectly
dry, and the loading fi iliiri' of the whole re-
cion isoiieof ri'iiiarkal4e aridity, and perfect
lioedoiii Iroiii niuiptiiro. Ill ulxiiit nix miles
we crost^cd the bed of luiotlier dry creek; and,
ciintiiiuiiigoiir ride over a high level prairie,
a little iK-loro Hiindown we came nuddcnly
ii|Miii a boautiliil creek, which revived us
with a feeling of delighted surprise by the
ileanant cnntniht of tlio deep verdure of its
lankrt w ith the parched desert wo had passed.
We had Hiid'errd iniicli to-day, both men and
horses, tor want of water ; having met with
it but once in our uninterrupted march ot
forty milort, and an excliisiive meat diet cre-
ates much thirsit.

" l,ifi hmlia^ liriini murha hambre" said
the young Spaniard, in(|uiringly ; " y lafjente
litiiihirii, nan] I, "anii^o, we'll camp here."
\ stream of good and clear water ran wind-
ing almiit through the little valley, ond a
herd of biiiliilo were (piietly feeding a little
distance below. It was quite a hunter's pa-
radise ; and while some ran down toward the
band to kill ono for supper, others collected
Ixiis lie vache for u fire, there being no wood ;
and I amused myself with hunting for plants
among (he grass.

It will be seen, by occasional remarks on
tho geological formation, that the constitu-
ents of the soil in these regions are good,
and every day served to strengthen tho im-
pression in my mind, confirmed by subse-
quent observation, that tho barren appear-
ance of the country 's due almost entirely to
the extreme drynets of the climate. Along
our route, tho country had seemed to increase
conetantly in elevation. According to the
indication of tho barometer, wo wero at our
encampment 5,440 feet above the sea.

The 'vening was very clear, with a fresh
breeze "rom the south, 50«' east. The baro-
meter ul sunset was 24.862, the thermometer
attached showing 68°. I supposed this to
be a fork of Lodge Polo creek, so far u I
could determine from our uncertain menns
of information. Astronomical obaervattero

CAl»T. FRKMONTH NAKRATIVK.

[IMI.

JMVff for Ili«» I'nmp a InnjriUHlo of 101* .T.»'
T'.nmJ UtUii.l.' II* OH 31 ,
Jul,j \ I. —Tin' winti ronimiioil rrr«li fn>in
(III* ■mm* ((Mitrtcr in ihi* tnnriiiiiif ; llio ii«y
\mnj[ «-lrnr, wilh IIh' fxcrpfiitn ol' » few
rloiijii III •III' Imrixon Al <>iir n«mp nl <5
iiVlitck. tin* hfitflil iif thi< iKiruiiuMiT wild
Ht.Nao, thfNllKi'ii<'<l ihiTinomHiT Jll" (Mr
foiirfi' lliiK inorniii); wut ilirrrfly mirth by
r.)iiipii».K. Iho varitUion Iwintf Ift* it l»i°i'n«t-
I'riy. A riilo of Imir niil«"» lirmijrht im to
l/wlpr I'kIi' rroi'k, whirh wn hkil witii at itx
mouth nn lti«* South fork ; rr(.ii>iinir '<n tin'
wiiy two ilry Htri'miiM, in rij;liti»i'n iiiilf* Ifoni
our »'nrmnninpnt of tin- |tiii«t night, we ro»rh«
«l A hiprh lilruk Tu\ff\\ fiiinpo«"Ml rnliroly '•!
tlip Kiiinn cnrthy liinoMioiio uml marl provi-
nuitly ili'HcrilNMJ.' I hml ni'Vi-r pocn nnyihin|ir
which imiiri'HKpd ho Htn'nply on my mini! ii
fpflincf of (loaolation. Thv v«lli>y, through
which run the walcrx of llorxo crt-rk, lay in
view to tho north, but tm\ fur to have any in-
Hurnrp on the iiniiuMiiilt* view. < )n tin* |M>ak
uf tho ri(ltf«> whore I wa* Mtnnilini;, mime xix
or upvcn niinilreil feel aNtve the river, the
wind waa high and bleak ; the barren and
arid country neeined h« it it Imd lieen awept
by firen, and In every direrlion the KHinodiill
Mh-cojorcd hue, derived from the formation,
met the eye. On the nummitM were wune
atiinted pinea, many of them deud, all wear-
Ing the xame aHheii hue of denoliition. We
Icit the place with pleasure ; and, after we
had doscended several hundred feet, iialted
In one of tho mvinea, which, at the dintanee
of every milo or two, cut the tlanki* of the
ridffe with little ruNhini; MreamK, wearing;
Momething of a mountain cimmcter. Wu
had already begun to exchange the comparn-
lively barren landa for thoae of a more fertile
character. Though tlic aandntone formed the
broken Iwnkii of the creek, yet they were
covered with a thin gnurt ; and the HIty or
aixty feet which formed the lK)ttom land of
tho little stream were clothed with very luxu-
riant f[nHti, among which I remarked willow
and cherry {cerasus virgininna) ; and a
quantity of gooHclierry and current bushea
occupied the greater part.

The creek waa three or four feet broad,
and about six inches deep, with a swift cur-
rent of clear water, and tolerably cool. We
had struck it too low down to tind the cold
water, which we HhoiiUI have enjoyeil nearer
to its nourcea. At U, p. m., tho 'barometer
waa at 25 060, the allached thermometer
104*. A day of hot aunHhine, with cloudp,
and moderate breeze from the south. (Con-
tinuing down the stream, in alrout four miles
we reached its mouth, at one of the main
branches of Horpe creek. liooking back
upon the ridge, whose direction appeared to
be a little to the north of east, we saw it
teamed at frequent intervals witli the dark

lme« of wooded utrrsm*. nlfliienl-* of the rivrr
that HoMi'd no far a* Me could me along ilfl
Immc. \\^' rnMM'd, ill the *|)Nce of twelve
milrn from our noon hall, three or four forka
of lliirxe creek, and pncttm|ied al numrt on
the luoHi eiioterly.

The Ixrk on which weencamjied a|<|iearr«l
to hii\e li)||o\«ed an easterly direction un to
tliiN place ; but hen> it makea a very midden
bend to the north, iwoaing tielween two
langea of nrecipitniiN hilU, called, ai I wax
informed, (lo^hen'- hole. There in wiine-
\\hen> in or nearthiM liMa'iiy a pluce mo call-
ed, hut I am not certain tnai it wa* the place
of our encampment. |.iM>king Imck upon
the «|M>l,at the diMtuuce ol a few miientothe
northward, the hilli< appear to rluit in the
prairie, through » Inch run* the creek, with
a nemi-circular sweep, which iiiiglit very na-
turally lie called a hole in the hilU. Tho
(feologital com|¥Miition of the ridge Ik thu
same which conntiliites the rock of the Court-
hoiiiie and ('hiiniiey,on t!ie North fork, which
anp«'ared to me a conliniittioii of this ridgiv
'I he winds and raiim work this formation into
a variety of Min;rulnr forms. The pass into
(tosheii s hole in almut two mile* wide, and
the hill on the western sidu imitates, in an
extraordinary manner, a masMive fortified
iilace, with a remarkaliln fulness of detail.
The nM'k ix marl and earthy liineKtone, white,
without the least appearance of vegetation,
and much resembles masonry at a little dis-
tance ; and here it sweeps around a level
area two or three hundred yanls in diameter,
and in tho form of a half iiKsin, terminating
on either extremity in enormous bastions.
Along the whole line of the |)nra|M'ts app<mr
domes and slender n inarets, forty or fifty
feet high, giving it ev^'ry appearance of an
old fortifieutown. On the walers of Wliile
river, where this formation exists in great
extent, it presents ap|H>arances which excite
the admiration of the solitary voyageiir, and
form a friMjuent theme of their conv-i-iialion
when speaking of the wonders of tho coun-
try. Soinetimea it ofi'ers the |>erfe< tly illu-
sive appearance of a largo city, with nume-
rous streets and magniticent buildings, among
which the Canadians never fail to se" th'-ir
cabaret ; and sometimes it takes ti;e ',or»rt of
tt solitary house, with many large chhinbers,
into which they drive their horses at night,
and sleep in these natiirul defences |)erl'ectly
secure from any attack of prowling savages.
Before reaching our camp at (Joshcn's hole,
in cro^ising the immeiibe detritue at the foot
of the Castle rock, we were involved amidst
winding passages cut by tho waters of the
hill; and where, with a breadth scarcely
large enough for the pssage of a horse, the
walls rise thirty and forty feet perpendicular*
ly. Thia formation supplies the discoloration
of the Platte. At sunset, the height of the

I*
t

longit

tl
Wt wiJ
day w

«i thel

»iiiri> i|

[Ill«l.

IDI'J 1

r.MT FIIKMONT'N N.MIHATIVK.

mrrriiriitl rnlunin wnit 2A AOO, (Iii> iiiiaclii><l
lhi'rni<inii*ti*r H*", mtd mIiuI tiKxIirtti* Iroin
H. 'AH* K. ri.imU rov««ri>i| tin* nky with (lut
riiii* of tli«> in«N>n, Itiil I hud iTilnl in ubuiii-
lliif till* imiinl nutniiioinii'iil ulHor\nhiii)ii,
wfiith |iIn(ihI UN ill liilttu'*v II" tU U'.Aiiil
l<iii|rituil«> 101° 'J»' aii".

Jiili/ \ft. - At (! tltin niiirnln(;, tlii* linromi**
li>r WIII4 lit ■_'.'> ."klA, til*' lliiriniiitD'tiT T'J'^ ; ttu>
lUy wiiM lliH', MJth Hrttiut rl.iiiiU liMiltiii^f lUrlt
rni tlio »viii(li, Mitli n lri*-li linc/.i* Iroin llii>
ouiiti* ipiitrtfr. Wi> riiiiiii] tltnl ill iiiir jour*
nry nrroDx tin* couMlry wi> linl knpt loo
miii'li to III)- i'iimIm iinl. 'i'UU iiioriiin;.', iiccoril-
iituly, wi< tnivcllol liy toin|i:iN4 f<otni liilU till) wiiiil Ki'tMiiKil to liavt>
jti«t iNKiiod t'roiii lu) oven. Our liorxi''* wito
miirh (JintrctiHi'i!, ax w«' hiul truvfllril hiinl ;
uiDJ it wiH vvitli Hiiiiii' iliflicuity tliiit tlioy
wiTi' nil ItrouKht lo tlu' I'IhIIo ; wliicli wi-
rraclu'il iit I oViock. In riling; in townnlii
tho river, \vu lnuiul llii> triul ot our cnrtH,
wliicli a|i|M>!irci| to liiivi> |ia-H<>J a iluy or two
•inro.

Aftrr linvin(r allowcil our animalH two
hoiiri* for I'ood ami rt'iKwc, wo n'Niimi'il our
journpy, utui towanlH thu cIonp of tin) day
caino ill HJ^'lit nl l,»rariiii>'M fork. InMiiing
(roin till- river hill-", wo cuine lirnl in view of
Fori I'lalte, a |»o<t lii'IonKiiitr lo MeHnrs Sy-
hilie, Aiiains &. ('o.iNitiialediininedialeiy in
tho (Kiiiit of laud nt tlin junetion of Laraniio
with the IMattc. Like thn |Kmt we had viHitcd
on the South fork, it was huilt of earth, and
htill miUnisliL'd, Ikmii^j ciicluscd with wuila
(or rather hou(te») on three ol the Hiden, and
open on the fourth to the river. A few hun-
dred yard* broiifrht uh in view of the |)OHt o'"
the Amcriran Fur Company, called Fori
John, or l<aramie. Thin wan a iarpc post,
having more the air uf military couHtruction
than tlio fort at. tho muuth of the river. It
is on the loll hank, on a riHin(( ^'''^uiid some
twenty-five feet above the water; and ita
lolly walln, whitewashed and picketed, with
the iar^re liat'tionH at the an^leH, gave il quite
an iinpHJii^ appearance in tho uncertain
li((ht of evening. .V cluHter of lodges, which
the language told us bcl.)nged to Sioux Indi-
ann, waH pitched under the walls, and, with
the fine back ground of the Black hills and
the prominent peak of Laramie mountain,
strongly drawn in the clear light of the west-
ern sky, where the sun had already net, the
whole fo~med at tlic moment a strikingly
beautifu picture. From the company at St.
Louis I had letters for Mr. Boudeau, the
gentleman in charge of the post, by whom I
was received with great hospitality and an
efficient kindness, which was invaluable to
me duriag my stay in the country. I found

our jH'opto enrnmiwil on the hank, a nhort
iliKiurue alMi\u l(n» fort. All wern well;

mill. HI II iijoynient ol u IhiuiiiIIuI «up(N*r,

whirl) coll! «• niiil lireiid iiimle luxiirioua to u*,
we »iRin lor;;ot thu fatigue* of thi) laM ten
duyM.

July \(l. — I found Ihiit, during my almenrp,
the piilualion nf iiHain) Iciij iindergono Foinu
rhaii(;e , and llie iiminl (piiet and Moniewhat
nioiiolonouM regularity ol the camp hud given
place lo (•xciti'iiifiit and ainriii The cir*
ciiiiiHlunrei* which oi'ennioned this chango
will Im' found narrated in the following ex-
tract from the joiirii.tl ol Mr, PreuHN, which
coiiiiiieiKi'N with the day of our iie|Niratioii
on the South fork ot the I'lalto.

r.xtraet fmm ihfjnurntil of .yfr, Prtui$.

"JulijG. — VVe rronHi'd tiie plateau or high-
land Ix'lween the two forki* in alwut six
hourn. I let my liorne go as slow as ho
liked, to iiideiiitiil'y un ImiiIi for thn previous
hardxhip; and about ikniii we reached the
North fork. Tiiero was no nign that our
party had piiHuod ; we nnle, ihereforo, to
Home pine treen, unxaililled the hurnex, and
ntretched our linilm on tho grani*, awaiting
the arrival of our conifHiny. After remain-
ing hero two hoiirn, my companion becamo
iinjiatieiit, mounted hix horso again, and ro<le
of! down the rivi-r to moo if ho could dincover
our (n'ople. I 4i'U so inariNle yet, that il was
a horrible idea to mo to iK'strido that saddle
again ; ho I lay ntill. I knew they could not
come any other way, and then my conifm-
■lion, ono of the bent men of the company,
would not almndon m^. Thu sun went
down ; ho did not come. Uneasy I did not
(••••I, but very hungry ; I had no provisions,
but I could make a tire ; and as I espied two
doves in a tree, 1 tried to kill one ; but it
needs a better mark^imaii than myself to kill
a tittle bird with a rifle. I made a large
lire, however, lighted my pipe — this irue
friend of mine in every emergency — lay
down, and let my thoughts wander to the far
east. It was not many minutes after when
I heard the tramp of a IiorHe, and my faithful
companion was by my side, lie had found
the party, who had been delayed by making
their cache, alwut seven miles below. To
the good supper which he brought with him
I did ample justice. He had forgotten salt,
and I tried the soldier's Hubstlute in time of
war, and used gunpowder ; but it answered
badly — bitter enough, but no flavor of kitchen
salt. I slept well ; and was only disturbed
by two owls, which were attracted by the
fire, and took tlieir plftce in tlie tree under
which we slept. Their music seemed us
disagreeable to my companion as to myself ;
he nred his rifle twice, and Jien they let ui
alone.

CAIT. KUKMONTS NARUATIVE.

[1842

184S

"./i((y 7.— At hIxhii It) oVI.xk. llu< piriy
nrrivnl ; uiul wf t<'nlimi'<l our jtmrncy
lliroii^:. u couivlrv wliu-li uIKmv.1 hut iiM'c In
iul,<ir.-l III.' lr;»\.«il.<r 'I'll.' h.uI wu-. imuli
m.iii' Miiulv lli.m III llii>\:ill<\v I'clow tin- o.in-

lIlUII.'.' Ol 111.' lolU-^. llll.l 111.' Ul'.' ..I' llu'

i.Miiilrv n.> l.'iic.T I'K'i.'iili'il lilt' ivtr.'.-luii^'
^ju.'H uliu-li liii'l IiiiIutH iliar.u'tori/.i'il il.
riio ri«li ^;^n^'<• ««'* »»« Uxni.l t'lilv in ilif-
pcr.-.'il Mj'i'ls. I'll l.nv jrr.nui.lH. ;iial on tlio
iH.lloni I iii.l .<l 111." '•'r.'iun:*. A l.'ii;: I'r.'ii^lit. ;
j.iin.'.l I.' i'\ln-iii.' li.Ml. Ita.l so luui-iu-.l ii|>
III.' iipi'.'r pramt's, tlial liu'v w.i.' in ii..ui\
pla.-.K Uil.l. »r o.n.'r.'il «<nly \vu!| a tlnii
(jnn\ll> nl yt'Il»>« an.i p-v^r j:ra>!«. Tlio i\;»-
luro I'l" till' (..'il HMu'tTs It oMnMiii'ly liuscojv
lil.;.' lo till' \u-i->.tiiil:-s I't tlio .liina:«v \>c-
twivii till' r.M'k*. uii.l :n'iii tli.M- junoium to
llu' \\\m\ IuI'.s. tl^o lonuatioii .-ouMsts ot'
marl aii.l a so;\ oartli\ liin.^stono. witli jr'-ani-
lio hrtii.l-t.Mi.v Siioh a v^riuatiou oinnot jrivo
riM> to a M.^rilo soil ; a;uK on o ir loturn ;:i
Si'p.nn'.vr. wlu'.i tiu" country lia.l ivon \\a-
ton\l hy ;ri\juont ra.:i>. t!;o va',..\v ol Uio
V.y.w Kvk(\i iiko a j^anlon : !-\'' rii-li was liio
\vrvlun' of \lw irrAssos. aii.j so hiMiriant tho
Wvx>m of abun.TaiU iV>\\i^rs. The \\ii>l ^.^^•'
'.Vjjms 10 r.iako i:.« apjXMranco. hui tiiv.;K^r
IS s»> scajvi' \\\K\ \\c ^.';iiTa"..y maiJe our liros
>; Iho .Vis tif iv.7.->.-'. \V.;H tm^ o.\.~t pin'U o;
ivw *n.J llion »a is. 'ato.l tnv or tvwv s!;»nd-
n\f Wc A hiiU:-hci,i<^ on t^io rivcr Uiik.
llh-ri'' is nono whaunor lo Ix^suvn.

" Ji.h S. — 0«;r n\«,i l.-'-.Jsy w.^s a ^>i.:an
ono. So fAmo ms.ii .ts sp;x^Ara..x'o — no:
cvfn f hiilVjtjo or » svray *:-.a lojx* ; %:^4:
n>'vihu\^ .Vv'UTTfsi to brvak tiio m.i^^v'^Jony
«Tit.; »NM;t .S o\-!.vk. when Vto cin\an
mft.^f » sii.Ucr. ha t, Trtcw wrs & jr^-wopinc
m o; sot^i.Js ftr>.i horponifr. frrr.-; c\ itx s^oi' —
ft hi-.T) ,uj: u^ *.n.'. :ro .r. ni"*is» o.miusjon ;
nfl.^ xvon^ txkrr. ;7om \XiCiT ook ct ; baljt^:
jwno.h<>s ova^ninfsi : in s.hors, tiicre wis :~if
cry *-»5 ■ Ipuisiw^" !v*r»i A^jum. 1 "hHii tv-
o<w(W sk^ mvh »»V13^i^.■>m^i: jo these ij£.-ias,
thu; now thry mv'c" hui ij;:Ji" i n, '"t»ssii>r! ^-.n
ii>f . K-nil N>:oTT 1 hue .'.mc :c htvonir f xcJU>d.
ihe now o»^m<»rs worr RtNTtrrAiDfd :o he
whit«i. 1; 'wfc* k )fi-r^ pjL-;\ o; L-j.orTs *iid
tmppoTS. OAivinrtoi by Sir. iBricurcr. & roax
m-oh kTi."'»-n m iJif hisi.in o:" tJif r^iuoiry
As thf siiTi was low. anc xhorc va* a tinf
frsss nsicJ; n.M far atii>ar.. riicy ti;mrc wut
anc orvamivc iot TJir Tt\i:\i\ wiir. us. JSr
Brwi^r wras in\-itiv. ?.~ sunpor , anc. a-tr? ibf
ra'i// oi.'/'. was Tcm:'\ott. ■»■< .tsifiupc wru,
oaprr inrr'ps; t»- ax: ar^-oun; a: lUfir act-cc-
fniTS. Wiwi; ihc\ liar. inf>i. «'f wMild t>f
likr;y J*-^ pnr^->imif>.r . rJir chaiu-«. wIikX liac
)vtail<>r. :hrri,. woinc nrnhah.'y hanjwr. u ns .
arxj «f i.v>k^c nivir. tiwir liw as a nirrurf
« cur own. Hf jnta.-ropic u* IXM. Ua mn-
ditmr. .X :t»f r.r.untr\ hat h^-.inif exr«^inp-
h danpf'joui. Ttif Siaux. »hi ha£ ttfiei.

Imdiy (liBpooptl, Imd broken out into open
liostility, luul in tla> prt'cedino; autumn his
|i:irl\ li.i.l "lu.miitorc'.l tik-in in a severe cn-
j;a;,iin.'iif, in wliii'h ii niinibor of lives had
iH'.'n l.'st on lu'lh sides. United with Uie
I'lu'yonne and ilrva Ventre Indians, they
wiTO s."o.iriii>r the upper i-oniitry in war par-
li.'.N ol jjreat l.in'o. iiiul wore at this time in
llio iioif;hl'.>rlii>i I ol tho AVi/ Huttes, & fa-
mous hindmarlv. whioh was directly on our
path. They had declared war u[>«jn every
lixiiijjthin}: which should bo found westward
ol lliat point ; thoujih their main object wa;
to attack a larjjo camp of whites and Snake
Indians, who had a rondozvons in the Sweet
Water valley. Availi:i>: himself of his inli-
mate k:'.ow fod^'O oi the country, he liad
ri\iciuM 1 jramio by an unusual route tiirough
tho l>;ack hills. .-inJ avoided coming into
.ontact wi;h any of the scattered parties.
i'.iis jrontloman otl'ored his services to ac-
coinj^jny us so far as the head of the Swett
W.itor ;" b.it ti.o absence of our leader, which
was dtvply rojrrcttiHl by us ail, rendered il
ini.vsMl).o' for us to enter upon such ar-
nlIl!^Mnonts. In a camp consisting of men
wIk'-so live* h-.id Ix'eu sjvr.t in this country.
I e.\;vctod to tind every one prepared for oc-
ciiruiices of liiis nature ; but. to my great
f urprtse. I i. und. en tliO C'. lilrjr}-. ti.at liiis
liov^s haa ti.rown them all iiit-' liie greate-i
cousteraauon : and, c->n every side. 1 heard
only one ex Jama: ion. ' L n"v <?»•'"<' J*.^ "^ '"^
;;■■'. ru-'us.' A'l th»e night, pcitterec gTC«ups
were asscaib.ed arouod iLe ^-ei-. siiiokir.'g
tJve.r pipes, and Ii>;e^aing » jUi ix>e greatest
oi.^ moss to exaggerated aetaiis o: lnd;ax
hosu.iUes : and m tij? niorr.ing I h-'.^nd Utt
fAaip dispintod. and agitaitv; .'V a vanetv o:
e<">r.iiK-t.:ng ojunions. A majontr o* tXte jtec-
pie vere str.iniriy cisp^K^'d ti' return : but
CjtrDoni Lar:i^£-n. » ith jicane 3ve or fcir oih-
ers-. n'-oieivSt'i ibe^r detf miinauoD lo fuljow
Mr fTemorit lo t'le utiermost lunit of bit
>oiimev. Ttte otiiers rieided lo tbeir re-
njonsiran.-.es>. and, s.">me*tifi.t asJiamed of
Ujo.r c-^^uTCici-. cniir-iuaed i:> ucJvaur-f at
jpass so jiiT as LarariiJr i.irt.. fastwarc of
w fuch iiti'Y w£-re aware n; daiigf-r wuf tC' ut
anpri^aenooid Ncc» jUisxaiiLing tne ccmro-
SKm anc tvritenjen- we wfrt very eary ol
Uit roai as tiie dhys were ertrenH.iy iid\,
and wf wf-re aijLious u> jiram rnr tiit trmHf
Df^sf o; liif m.Trriing. Ti»t son mary iorm-
aziciT- ovic w nir.L wf wert new iciurneying.
nvDUROt y oS?rs k. i!ic irtveiier \jpwf o: rt^
marka;j.!e anc pirxurpsqut leaury. Tc sevf-
ra.. o: Utfsf j£»ri..rjef>. viteTi- int wmat aiu:
"Jif raiii bbvi workftL Uie biufc mu curiouE
snanes^ iht voyagftirr navf g-vet namef ac-
cardmg U' somt mnr.iac reaemiuanae. ^Jm
a: tbeitf.. r*iiec inf Omr^-tumsi.. we pafiaesc
bivuiT <;a miif^ from our encampment uf ian
lugn;. anc u^wajc bool xmm. Ui &igX£i m XM

celcl
distal
callej
estafc
NothI
the dl
a mal
becori
lM?en I
into tl
to drf

[1842

lit into open
r aiitiiiiin his
a severe on-
of lives liad
lied with Uie
Indians, they
ry in war par-
t this time in
Hiiitts, a fa-
ce tly on our
• njxjii every
ind westward
in object wa<
s and Snake
in the Sweet
If (if his inii-
try, he liad
oute tJirough
ci.iniiiir into
ired parties,
vices to ac-
n the Sweet
oader, which
, rendered ii
on such ar-
ting of men
;hi« countrr,
pared for oc-
\o my gTva:
n'. tiui this
:ije gjeat«-i
ide. i heATc
".J j>as at i"V
ereti p-C'Ups

rte greait^t
c: Intuax

^"ari«y of

um . bu:
or ftii: otb-

"uuc'W
iniii of idt

xhtiiT re-
yjamea o:
.cviLncf i.:
iiSTwarti of
wLt I: -jt
Ujf c.;in:B-
rv ehTix oL
van.y ii3U

" r kirm-
;ii,-l»py:n^.
if'Wr o: rt-

Tc sevf-

cunouf
luauef iic-

Bpf pbsaec
ten; u: iaai
f tii cQ xnc

1842.]

CAPT. FREV NT'S NARRATIVE.

celebrated Chimtiey mck. It looks, at fhi^
distance of about thirty miles, like what i .
called — the long chimney of a steam factory
establishment, or a shot tower in Rnltiniore.
Nothing occurred to interrupt the (|uir't of
thfi day, and we encamped on the river, after
a march of twenty-four miles. UufTIilo had
become very scarce, and but one cow had
ix^en killed, of which the meat had been cut
into thin slices, and hung around the carts
to dry

" Jiihj 10. — We continued along the same
fine |)liimly beaten road, which the smooth
surface of the country alForded us, for a dis-
tance of six hundred and thirty miles, from
the frontier^: of Missouri to the Laramie fork.
In the course of the day we met some whites,
who were following along in the train of
Mr. Uridger ; and, alter a day's journey ^f
twenty-four miles, encamped about sunset at
the Chimney rock. It consists of marl and
earthy limestone, and tfie weather is rapidly
diminishi ^ its height, which is now not
more thav -ivo hundred feet above the river.
Travellers who visited it some years since
placed its height at upwards of 500 feet.

" July II.— The valley of th? North fork
is of a variable breadth, from one to four,
and sometimes six miles. Fifteen miles
from the Oiimney rock we reached one of
those places where the river strikes the
bluffs, and forces the road to make a con-
siderable circuit over the uplands. This
presented an escarpment on the river of about
nine himdred yards in length, and is fami-
liarly known as Scott's bluffs. We had
made a journey of thirty miles before we
again struck the river, at a place where
some ^scanty grass afforded an insufficient
pasturage to our animals. About twenty
miles from the Chimney rock we had found
a very beautiful spring of excellent and cold
water ; but it was in such a deep ravine, and
fo small, that the animals could not prolit by
it, and we therefore halted only a few min-
utes, and found a resting place ten miles
further on. Tiie plain between Scott's bluffs
and Chimney rock was almost entirely co-
vered with drift wood, consisting principally
of cedar, which we were informed, had been
supplied from the Black hills, in a flood five
or six years since.

'■'■July 12. — Nine miles from our encamp-
ment of yesterday we crossed Horse creek,
a shallow stream of clear water, about se-
venty yards wide, falling into the Platte on
the right bank. It was lightly timbered,
and great quantities of drift wood were piled
up on the banks, appearing to be supplied
by the creek from above. After a journey
of twenty-six miles, we encamped on a rich
bottom, which afforded fine grass to our ani-
mals. Bufl&lo have entirely disappeared,
and we live now upon the dried meat, which

is exceedingly poor food. The marl and
earihy limestone, which constituted the
formation for several days past, had changed
during the day into a compact v' iteor grey-
ish wliito limestone, sometimes containing
hornstono ; and at the place of our encamp-
ment this evening, some strata in the river
hills cropped out to the height of thirty or
forty feet, consisting of a fine-grained gra-
nitic sandstone ; one of the strata closely
resembling gnei.^.s.

"■July 13. — To-day, about 4 o'clock v.e
reached Fort Laramie, where we weie cor-
dially received ; we pitched our camp a lit-
tle above the fort, on tij bank of the I^ara-
mio river, in which th j pure and clear water
of the mountain strr.iin lookad refreshingly
cool, and made :^ pleasant contrast to the
muddy, yellow rvaters of the Platte."

I walked up ' o visit our friends at the fort,
which is a quadrangular structure, built of
clay, after the fashion of the Mexicans, who
are generally employed in building them.
The walls are about fifteen feet high, sur-
mounted with a wooden palisade, and form a
portion of ranges of houses, which entirely
surround a yard of about one hundred and
thirty feet square. Every apartmi nt has its
door and window — all, of course, opening on
the inside. There are two entrances, oppo-
site each other, and midway the wall, one
of which is a large and public entrance ; the
other smaller and more private — a sort of
postern gate. Over the great entrance is a
square tower with loopholes, and, like the
rest of the work, built of earth. At two of
the angles, and diagonally opposite each
other, are large square bastions, bo arranged
as to sweep the four faces of the walls.

This post belongs to the American Fur
Company, and, at the time of our visit, was
in charge of Mr. Boudeau. Two of the
company's clerks, Messrs. Galpin and Kel-
logg, were with him, and be had in the fort
about sixteen men. As usual, these had
found wives among the Indian squaws ; and,
with the usual accompaniment of children,
the place had quite a populous appearance.
It is hardly necessary tc say, that the object
of the establishment is trade with the neigh-
boring tribes, who, in the course of the year,
generally make two or three visits to the
fort. In addition to this, traders, with a
small outfit, are constantly kept amongst
them. The articles of trade consist, on the
one side, almost entirely of buffalo robes ;
and, on the other, of blankets, calicoes,
guns, powder and lead, with such cheap or-
naments as glass beads, looking-glasses,
rings, vermilion for painting, tobacco, and
principally, and in spite of the prohibition, of
spirits, brought into the country in the form
of alcohol, and diluted with water before
sold. While mentioning this fact, it is bat

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1842.

justice to the American Fur Company to
aUte, that, throughout the country, I have
always found them strenuously opposed tc
the introductian of spirituous liquors. But,
in the present state of things, when the coun-
try is supplied with alcohol, when a keg of it
will purchase from an Indian everything he
possesses — his furs, liis lodge, liis horses,
and even his wife and children— and when
any vagabond who has money enough to
purcliasc a mule can go into a village and
trade against them successfully, willioiit
withdrawing entirely from the trade, it is
impossible ior them to discontinue its use.
In their opposition to this practice, the com-
pany is sustained, not only by their obliga-
tion to the laws of the country and the wel-
fare of the Indians, but clearly, also, on
grounds of policy ; for, with heavy and ex-
pensive outfits, they contend at manifestly
great disadvantage against the numerous in-
dependent and unlicensed traders, who enter
the country from various avenues, from the
United States and from Mexico, having no
other stock in trade than some kegs of li-
quor, which they sell at the modest price of
thirty-six dollars per gallon. The difference
between the regular trader and the coureur
des bois (as the French call the itinerant or
peddling traders), with respect to the sale
of spirits, is here, as it always has been,
fixea and permanent, and growmg out of the
nature of their trade. The regular trader
looks ahead, and has an interest in the pre-
servation of the Indians, and in the regular
pursuit of their business, and the preserva-
tion of their arms, horses, and everything
necessary to their future and permanent suc-
cess in hunting : the coureur des hois has no
permanent interest, and gets what he can,
and for what he can, from every Indian he
meets, even at the risk of disabling him
from doing anything more at hunting.

The fort had a very cool and clean appear-
ance. The great entrance, in which I found
the gentlemen assembled, and which was
floored, and about fifteen feet long, made a
pleasant, shaded seat, through which the
breeze swept constantly ; for this country is
famous for high winds. In the course of
conversation, I learned the following parti-
culars, which will explain the condition of
the country : For several years the Chey-
ennes and Sioux had gradually become more
and more hostile to the whites, and in the
latter part of August, 1841, had had a rather
severe engagement with a party of sixty
men, under me command of Mr. Frapp, of
St. Louis. The Indians lost eight or ten
warriors, and the whites had their leader and
four men killed. This light took place on
the waters of Snake river ; and it was this
party, on their return under Mr. Bridger,
which had spread so much alarm among my

^<eoplc. In the course of Uie spring, two
^ other small parties had been cut off oy the
Sioux — one on their return from the Crow
nation, and the otiier among the Black hills.
The emigrants to Oregon and Mr. Bridger's
party met hero, a few days before our arri-
val. Divisions and misunderstandings had
grown up among them ; they were already
somewhat disheartened by the fatigue of
their long and weariijome journey, and the
feet of their cattle had become so much
worn as to bo scarcely able to travel. In
this situation, they were not likely to find
encouragement in the hostile attitude of the
Indians, and the new and unexpected difH-
culties which sprang up before them. They
were told that tlio country was entirely
swept of grass, and that few or no buffalo
were to be found on their line of route ; and,
with their weakened animals, it would be
impossible for them to transport their heavy
wagons over the mountains. Under these
circumstances, they disposed of their wagons
and cattle at the forts ; selling them at the
prices they had paid in the States, and tak-
mg in exchange coffee and sugar at one dol-
lar a pound, and miserable worn-out horses,
which died before they reached the moun-
tains. Mr. Boudeau informed me that he
had purchased thirty, and the lower fort
eighty head of fine cattle, some of them of
the Durham breed. Mr. Fitzpatrick, whose
name and high reputation are familiar to all
who interest themselves in the history of
this country, had reached Laramie in com-
pany with Mr. Bridger ; and the emigrants
were fortunate enough to obtain his services
to guide them as far as the British post of
Fort Hall, about two hundred and fifty miles
beyond the South Pass of the mountains.
They had started for this post on the 4th of
July, and immediately after their departure,
a war party of three hundred and fifty
braves set out upon their trail. As their
principal chief or partisan had lost some re-
lations in the recent fight, and had sworn to
kill the first whites on his path, it was sup-
posed that their intention was to attack the
party, should a favorable opportunity offer ;
or, if they were foiled in their principal ob-
ject by the vigilance of Mr. Fitzpatrick, con-
tent themselves with stealing horses and
cutting off stragglers. These had been gone
but a few days previo is to our arrival.

The effect of the engagement with Mr.
Frapp had been greatly to irritate the hostile
spirit of the savages *, and immediately sub-
sequent to that event, the Gross Ventre In-
dians had united with the Oglallahs and
Cheyennes, and taken the field in great
force — so far as I cotild ascertain, to the
amount of eight hundred lodges. Their ob-
ject was to make an attack on a camp of
Snake and Crow Indians, and a body of

184^

aboil
rcndl
Vttlle

[1842.

Bpring, two
ut oft" by the
m the Crow
! Black hills.
Ir. Bridger's
ore our arri-
andiiiffs had
/ere already
3 fatigue of
fiey, and the
no 80 much
travel. In
kely to find
titude of the
<pected diffi-
hem. They
vas entirely
• no butlulo
route ; and,
it would be
their heavy
Jnder these
heir wagons
:hein at the
es, and tak-
r at one dol-
-out horses,
the moun-
me that he
lower fort
of them of
rick, whose
niliar to all
history of
nie in corn-
emigrants
lis services
ish post of
fifty miles
mountains,
the 4th of
departure,
and fifty
As their
it some re-
sw^orn to
was sup-
attack the
nity offer ;
incipal ob-
itrick, con-
lorses and
been pone
ival.

with Mr.
the hostile
ately sub-
V^entru In-
.Uahs and
in great
n, to the
Their ob-
camp of
body of

1843.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

abon one hundred whites, who had made a
rendezvous somewhere in tlio (irecn river
valley, or on the Sweet Water. AfttT
spending some tiuu> in butllilo hunting in the
neighborhood of the Medicine Bow moun-
tiiiii, they were to cross over to the Green
river waters, and return to Laramie by way
of the South Pass and the Sweet Water val-
ley. According to the calculation of the In-
dians, Mr. Doudeau informed me they were
soinowhero near the head of the Sweet
Water. I Hub.sequently learned that the
piirtv led by Mr. Fitzpatrick were overtaken
by flioir pursuers near Rock Independence,
in the valley of the Sweet Water ; but his
skill and resolution saved them from sur-
prise, and, small as his force was, they did
not venture to attack him openly, llere
they lost Jiie of their party by an accident,
and, continuing up the valley, they came
rtudjenly upon the large village. From
these tfiey met with a doubtful reception.
Long residence and familiar acquaintance
had given to Mr. Fitzpatrick grfiit personal
intlnence among them, and a por.on ot them
were disposed to let him pass quietly ; but
by far the greater number were inclined to
hostile measures ; and the chiefs spent the
whole of one night, during which they kept
the little party in the midst of them, \a
counril, debating the question of attacking
them the next day ; but the influence of
'• the Broken Hand," as they called Mr. Fitz-
piitrick (one of his hands having been shat-
tered by the bursting of a gun), at lengtli
prevailed, and obtained for them an unmo-
lested passage ; but they sternly assured
him that this path was no longer open, and
that any party of whites which should here-
after be found upon it would meet with cer-
vain destruction. From all that I have been
able to learn, I have no doubt that the emi-
•rraiits owe their lives to Mr. Fitzpatrick.

Thus it would appear that the country
was swarming with scattered war parties;
and when I heard, during the day, the vari-
ous contradictory and e.xaggerated rumors
which were incessantly repeated to them, I
was not surprised that so much alarm pre-
vailed among my men. Carson, one of the
best and most experienced mountaineers,
fully supported the opinion given by Bridger
of the dangerous state of the country, and
openly expressed his conviction that we
could net escape without some sharp en-
counters with the Indians. In addition to
this, he made his will ; and among the cir-
cumstances which were constantly occurring
to increase their alarm, this was the most
unfortunate ; and I found that a number o(
my party had become so much intimidated,
that they had requested to be discharged at
this place. I dined to-day at Fort Platte,
which has been mentioned as situated at the

junction of Laramie river with the Nebraska.
Here I heard a confirmation of the state*
meiits given above. The party of warriors,
which had started a few days since on the
trail of the emigrants, was expected back in
fourteen days, to join the villaffo with which
their families and the old men had remained.
The arrival of the latter was hourly expect-
ed ; and some Indians have just come in
who had left them on the Laramie fork,
about twenty miles above. Mr. Bissonette,
one of the traders belonging to Fort Platte,
urged the propriety of taking with me an in-
terpreter and two or three old men of the
village ; in which case, he thought there
would be little or no hazard in encountering
any of the war parties. The principal
danger was in being attacked before they
should know who we were.

They had a confused idea of the numbers
and power of our people, and dreaded to
bring upon themselves the military force of
the United States. This gentleman, who
spoke the language fluently, oiiered his ser-
vices to accompany me so far as the Red
Buttcs. He. was desirous to join the large
party on its return, for purposes of trade, and
It would suit his views, as well as my own,
to go with us to the Buttes ; beyond which
point it would be impossible to prevail on a
Sioux to venture, on account of their fear of
the Crows. From Fort Laramie to the Red
Buttes, by the ordinary road, is one hundred
and thirty-five miles ; and, though only on
the threshold of danger, it seemed better to
secure the services of an interpreter for the
partial distance, than to have none at all.

So far as frequent interruption from the
Indians would allow, we occupied ourselves
in making some astronomical calculations,
and bringing up the general map to this
stage of our journey ; b..; the tent was gen-
erally occupied by a succession of our cere-
monious visitors. Some came for presents,
and others for information of our object in
coming to the country ; now and then, one
would dart up to the tent on horseback, jerk
off his trappings, and stand e'lently at the
door, holding his horse by the halter, signi-
fying his desire to trade. Occasionally a
savage would stalk in with an invitation to
a feast of honor, a dog feast, and deliberately
sit down and wait quietly until I was ready
to accompany him. I went to one ; the
women and children were sitting outside the
lodge, and we took our seats on buffalo
robes spread around. The dog was in a
large pot over the fire, in the middle of Uie
lodge, and immediately on our arrival was
dished up in large wooden bowls, one of
whicb was hanc'.od to each. The flesh ap-
peared very glutinous, with something of the
Havor and appearance of mutton. Feelintf
something move behind me, I looked roun(^

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARIlA'l'IVB.

[1842.

and found that I had taken my seat amonnf a
litter of fat young puppies. Had I been
nice in such matters, the prpjiidiccB of civi-
lisation might have interfered with my tran-
quillity -, but, fortunately, I am not of deli-
cate nervcB, and continued quietly to empty
my platter.

The weather was cloudy at evening, with
a moderate south wind, and the thermometer
at 6 o'clock 86". I was diaapiwinted in my
hope of obtaining an observation of an oc-
cultation, which took place about midniglit.
The moon brought with her heavy banks of
clouds, through which she scarcely made
her appearance during the night.

The morning of the 18th was cloudy and
calm, the thermometer at 6 o'clock at 64°.
About 9, with a moderate wind from the
west, a storm of rain came on, accompanied
by sharp thunder and lightning, which lasted
about an hour. Duri.ig the day the expected
village arrived, consistiiig princjpally of old
men, women, and children, 'ihey had a
considerable number of horses, and large
troops of dogs. Their lodges were pitched
near the fort, and our camp was conntantly
crowded with Indians of all sizes, froiu morn-
ing until night ; at which time some of the
soldiers generally came to drive them all off
to the village. My tent was the only place
which they respected. Here only came the
chiefs and men of distinction, and generally
one of them remained to drive away the wo-
men and children. The numerous strange
instruments, applied to still stranger uses,
excited awe and admiration among them,
and those which I used in talking with the
sun and stars they looked upon with especial
reverence, as mysterious things of " great
medicine." Of the three barometers which
I had brought with me thus far successfully,
I found that two were out of order, and spent
the greater part of the 19th in repairing
them — an operation of no sm^^ll difficulty in
the midst of the incessant interruptions to
which I was subjected. We had the mis-
fortune to break here a largo thermometer,
raduated to show fifths of a degree, which
used to ascertain the temperature of boil-
ing water, and with which I had promised
myself some interesting experiments in the
mountains. We had but one remaining, on
which the graduation extended sufficiently
high ; and this was too small for exact ob-
servations. During our stay here, the men
had been engaged in making numerous re-
pairs, arranging pack-saddles, and otherwise
prejparing for the chances of a rough road
ancf mountain travel. All things of this na-
ture being ready, I gathered them around
me in the evening, and told them that " I had
determined to proceed the next day. They
were all well armed. I had engaged the
eervices of Mr. Bissonette as interpreter, and

had taken, in the circumstanccH, every po«-
sible means to iiiHuro our flafety. In the ru»
mors WR had heard, I believed there waa
much exaggeration, and then they wore men
uccustoineu to tliiri kind of lite and to the
country ; and that tlieso were the dangers of
every day occurrence, and to be expected in
the ordinary course of their service. They
had heard of tlio unsettled condition of the
country bctoro leaving St. Ijoiiis, and there<
lore could not make it a rea.son for breaking
their engageinentH. Still, I was unwilling
to take with me, on a service of some cer-
tain danger, men on whom I could not rely ;
and as I had understood that there were
among them some who were disposed to
cowardice, and anxious to return, they had
but to come forward at once, and state their
desire, and they would be discharged with
the amount due to them for tie time they
had served." To their honor be it said, there
was but one among them who had the face
to come forward and avail himself of the per-
mission. I asked him some few questions,
in order to expose him to the ridicule of the
men, and let him go. The day after our
departure, he engaged himself to one of
the forts, and set off with a party to the Up-
per Missouri. I did not think that the situ-
ation of the country justified me in taking
our young companions, Messrs. Brant and
Benton, along with us. In case of misfor-
tune, it would have been thought, at the
least, an act of great imprudence ; and there^
fore, though reluctantly, I determined to
leave them. Randolph had been the life of
the camp, and the '* petit garpon" was much
regretted by the men, to whom his buoyant
spirits had aflbrded great amusement. They
all, however, agreed in the propriety of leav-
ing him at the fort, because, as they said, he
might cost the lives of some of the men in a
tight with the Indians.

July 21. — A portion of our baggage, with
our field notes and observations, and several
instruments, were left at the fort. One of
the gentlemen, Mr. Galpin, took charge of a
barometer, which he engaged to observe
during my absence ; and I entrusted to Ran-
dolph, by way of occupation, the regular
winding up of two of my chronometerB,which
were among the instruments fcft. Our ob-
servations showed that thu chronometer
which I retained for the continuation of our
voyage had preserved its rate in a most sa-
tisfactory manner. As deduced from it, the
longitude of Fort Laramie is Ih. 01' 21",
and from lunar distance Ih. 01' 29" ; giving
for the adopted longitude 104" 47' 43".
Comparing the barometrical observations
made during our stay here, with those of Dr.
G. ^ingleman at St. Louis, we find for the ele-
vati. f the Tort above the Gulf of Mexico
4,470 feet. The winter climate here is i«*

[1849.

?very po«-
In the ru<
there waa
were men
nd to the

lilllfircra of

\pccted in
:o. They
on of the
and there-
r breaking
unwilling
some cer-
I not rely ;
lero were
isposed to
, they had
state their
irged with
time they
said, there
i the face
of the per*
questions,
;ule of the

after our
to one of
to the Up-
it the situ-

in tailing
Brant and
of misfor-
ht, at the
and there»

mined to

ic life of
was much
s buoyant

nt. They
ty of leav-
cy said, he

men in a

1849.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

markably mild for the latitude ; but rainy
weather is frequent, and the place is ccle-
bratrd for winds, of which the prevailing one
lit wcHt. An east wind in siimmor, and a
south wind in winter, are said to l)c always
accompanied with niin.

VVi! wore ready to depart ; the tents were
struck, the mules geared up, and our horses
Hiiddlcd, and wu walked up to tlic fort to tnko
the stirrup cup with our friends in an excel-
lent home-browed preparation. VViiilo thus
pleasantly engaged, seated in one of the little
cool chambers, at the door of which a man
had been Htati(mcd to prevent all intrusion
from the Indians, a numl)er of cliiefH, several
of tliein powerful line-looking men, forced
their way into the room in spite ol all oppo-
sition. Handing me the following letter,
they took their HeatH in Hilunce :

"Fort Platte, Juillel 1, 1842.

" Mr. Fremont : Los chefs setuntasHcm-
blis prfcscntement me disent de vous avertir
de ne point vous mottre en route, avnnt que
lo parti do jeunes gens, qui est en dehors,
poient do retour. De plus, ils me disent
iju'ils sont tres certains qu'ils feront feu k la
premiere rencontre. lis doivent etre do re-
tour dans sept k huit jours. Kxc\isez si je
vous fais ces okservations, mais il ino semble
qu'il est mon devoir de vous avertir da dan-
ger. Meme de plus, les chefs s»)nt los por-
leurs de ce billet, qui vous defL'iident do
uartir avant lo retour dcs guerriera.

" Je suis voire obeissant serviteur,
"JOSEPH BISSONETTE,
" Par L. B. CHARTRAIN.

" Les noms de qucljues clief^. — TiC Chapeau
de Loutre, le Casseur de Fleches, la Nuit
Noir, la Queue de Boeuf."

[Translation.]

" Fort Platte, July 1, 1842.

" Mr. Fremont : The chiefs, having as-
sembled in council, have just told me to
warn you not to set out before the party of
young men which is now out shall nave re-
turned. Furthermore, they tell me that they
are very sure they will fire upanyouassoon
as they meet you. They are expected back
in seven or eight days. Excuse me for
making these observations, but it seems my
duty to warn you of danger. Moreover, ihe
chiefs who prohibit your setting out before
the return of the warriors are the bearers of
this note.

" I am your obedient servant,

"JOSEPH BISSONETTE,

" By L. B. CHARTRAIN.

" Names of some of the chiefs. — The Otter
Hat, the Breaker of Arrows, the Black
Night, the Bull's Tail."

After reading this, I mentioned its purport
to my companions ; and, seeing tnat all
were fully possessed of its contents, one of
the Indians rose up, and, having first shaken
hands with me, spoke as follow :

" Voii have come among u.> Ht a bad time.
Some of our people have been killed, and our
young men, who are gone to tlio mountains,
are eager to avenge the bl(M)d of their rela-
tions, which has been shed by the whites.
Our young men are bad, and, if they meet
you, they will Micve that you are carrying
goods and ammunition to their enemies, and
will fire upon you. Vou have told us that
this will make war. VVo know that our
groat father has many soldiers and big guns,
and wo are anxious to have our lives. We
love the whites, and are desirous of peace.
Thinking of all these things, we have deter-
mined to keep you here until our warriors
return. We are glad to see you among us.
Our father is rich, and wc expected that you
would have brought presents to us — horses,
guns, and blankets. But we are glad to see
you. We look upon your coining as the light
which goes before the sun ; for you will tell
our great father that you have seen us, and
that we are naked and poor, and have no-
thing to eat ; and he will send us all these
things." He was followed "by the others, to
the same cfiect.

The observations of the savage appeared
reiisonable ; but I was aware that they had
in view only the present object of detaining
me, and were unwilling I should go further
into the country. In reply, I asked them,
through the interpretation of Mr. Boudeau,
to select two or three of their number to ac-
company us until we should meet their peo-
ple — they should spread their robes in my tent
and eat at my table, and on our return I
would give them presents in reward of their
services. They aeclined, saying that there
were no young men left in the village, and
that they were too old to travel so many dava
on horseback, and preferred now to smoke
their pipes in the lodge, and let the warriors
go on the war path. Besides, they had no
power over the young men, and were afraid
to interfere with them. In my turn I address-
ed them : " You say that you love the whites ;
why have you killed so many already this
spring ? You say that you love the whites,
and are full of many expressions of friend-
ship to us ; but you are not willing to undergo
the fatigue of a few days' ride to save our
lives. We do not believe what you have
said, and will not listen to you. Whatever
a chief among us telta his soldiers to do, is
done. We are the soldiers of the great chief,
your father. He has told us to come here
and see this country, and all the Indians, his
children. Why should we not go ? Before
we came, we heard that you had killed his

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1849.

Id !

•■I

:,*i: -

people, and ceaned to be hin children ; but we
came among you peaceably, holding out our
bands. Now we find that the storieH we
heard are not lies, and that you arc no longer
bia friends and children. We have thrown
away our bodies, and will not turn back.
When you told us that your young men
would kill us, you did not know that our
hearts were strong, and you did not see the
rifles which my young men carry in their
hands. Wo are ^w, and you are many, and
may kill us all ; but there will be much cry-
ing in your villages, for many of your young
men will stay behind, and forget to return
with your warriors from the mountains. Do
you think that our great chief will let his
soldiers die, and forget to cover their graves ?
Before the snows melt again, his warriors
will sweep away your villages as the fire
does the prairie in the autumn. See ! I have
pulled down my white houses, and my people
arc ready : when the sun is ten paces higher,
we shall be on the march. If you have any-
thing to tell us, you will say it soon." I
broke up the conference, as I could do no-
thing with these people ; and, being resolved
to proceed, nothing was to be gained by de-
lay. Accompanied by our hospitable friends,
we returned to the camp. We had mounted
our horses, and our parting salutations had
been exchanged, when one of the chiefs (the
Bull's Tail) arrived to tell me that they had
determined to send a young man with an ;
and if I would point out the place of our eve-
ning camp, be should join us there. "The
young man is poor," said he ; "he has no
horse, and expects you to give him one." I
described to him tKe place where I intended
to encamp, and, shaking hands, in a few mi-
nutes we were among tlie hills, and this last
habitation of whites shut ou^ from our view.
The road led over an interesting plateau
between the North fork of the Platte on the
right, and Laramie river on the left. At the
distance of ten miles from the fort, we en-
tered the sandy bed of a creek, a kind of de-
file, shaded by precipitous rocks, down which
we wound our way for several hundred yards,
to a place where, on the left bank, a very
\tiTBe spring gushes with considerable noise
and force out of the limestone rock. It is
called " the Warm Spring," and furnishes to
the hitherto dry bed of the creek a conside-
rable rivulet. On the opposite side, a little
below the sprip?, is a lofty limestone escarp-
ment, parti ; .shaped by a grove of largo
trees, whose green foliage, in contrast with
tbe whiteness of the rock, renders this a pic-
turesque locality. The rock is fosslliferous,
and, so far as I was able to determine the
character of the fossils, belongs to the car-
boniferous limestone of the Missouri river,
and 18 probably the western limit of that for-

mation. Beyond thia point I met with no
fossils of any description.

I was desirous to visit the Platte near the
point where it leave* the Black hills, and
therefore followed this stream, for two or
three miles, to the mouth ; where I encainp-
rd on a spot which aflSirded good grass and

firite {eijuisftum) for our animals. Our tenta
laving been found too thin to protect our-
selves and the instruments from the rains,
which in this elevated country are attended
with cold and unpleasant weather, I had pro-
cured irom the Indians at Ijaramie a tolera-
bly large lodge, about eighteen feet in diame-
ter, and twenty feet in height. Such a
lodge, when properly pitched, is, from its
conical form, almost perfectly secure against
the violent winds which are frequent in this
region, and, with a fire in the centre, is a
dry and warm shelter in bad weather. By
raising the lower part, so as to permit the
breeze to pass freely, it is converted into a
pleasant summer residence, with the e.\traor>
dinary advantage of being entirely free from
mosquitoes, one of which I have never seen
in an Indian lodge. While we were engaged
very unskilfully m erecting this, the interpre-
ter, Mr. Bissonettc, arriveu, accompanied by
the Indian and his wife. She laugned at our
awkwardness, and offered her assistance, of
which we were frequently afterward obliged
to avail ourselves, before the men acquired
sufficient expertness to pitch it without diffi-
culty. From this place we had a fine view
of the gorge where the Platte Issues from the
Black hills, changing its character abruptly
from a mountain stream into a river of the
plains. Immediately around us the valley ol
the stream was tolerably open *, and at tbe
distance of a few miles, where the river had
cut its way through the hills, was the narrow
cleft, on one side of which a lofty precipice
of bright red rock rose vertically above the
low hills which lay between us.

July 22. — In tlie morning, while breakfast
was being prepared, I visited tliis place with
my favorite man, Basil Lajeunesse. Enter-
ing BO far as there was footing for the mules,
we dismounted, and, tying our animals, con-
tinued our way on foot. Like the whole
country, the scenery of the river had under-
gone an entire change, and was in this place
the most beautiful 1 have ever seen. The
breadth of the stream, generally near that ol
its valley, was from two to three hundred feet,
with a swift current, occasionally broken by
rapids, and the water perfectly clear. On
either side rose the red precipices, vertical,
and sometimes overhanging, two and four
hundred feet in height, crowned with green
summits, on which were scattered a few
pines. At the foot of the rocks was tbe
usual detritus, formed of masses fallen fitun

1843. 1

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

above. Among the pines that gnw here,
and on the occaaional bankn, were the cherry
(cerafui virffiniana), currants, and grains de
IjoBuf (xhejiherdia argentea). Viewed in the
■unithino uf a plcHmiiit inornin|(, the Hccnvry
wan of a inont Htril<ing and romantic l)eaiity,
which aroHe from the pictureHqiie disi^Ktaition
of the objectH, and the vivid contrast ot colors.
I thought with much pleasure of our ap-
proaching dcHccnt in the canoe through such
iiitoresling places ; and, in the expectation
of lioing able at that time to give to them a
full examination, did not now dwell so much
as might have been desirable upon the geo-
logical fttrmations along the line of the river,
where they are developed with great clear-
ness. The upper portion of the red Htrata
consists of very compact clay, in which are
occasionally seen imbedded large pebbles.
Delow was a stratum of com|)act red sand-
stone, changing a little alK>ve the river into a
very hard siliceous limestone. There is a
small but handsome open prairie immediately
below this place, on the left bank of the river,
which would be a good locality for a military
post. There are some open groves of cotton-
wood on the Platte. The small stream which
comes in at this place is woll timbered with
pine, and good building rock is abundant.

If it is in contemplation to keep open the
communications with Oregon terriuiry, a
show of military force in this country is
absolutely necessary ; and a combination of
advantages renders the neighborhood of Fort
Laramie the most suitable place, on the line
of the Platte, for the establishment of a mili-
tary post. It is connected with the mouth
of the Platte and the Upper Missouri by ex-
cellent roads, which are in frequent ust.,and
would not in any way interfere with the range
of the buiTalo, on which the neighboring In-
dians mainly depend for support. It would
render any posts on the Lower Platte un-
necessary ; the ordinary communication be-
tvvoon it and the Missouri being sufficient to
control the intermediate Indians. It would
operate eliectually to prevent any such co-
alitions as are now formed among the Gros
Ventres, Sioux, Cheyennes, and other In-
dians, and would keep the Oregon road
through the valley of the Sweet Water and
*'.d South Pass of the mountains constantly
open. Tt lies at the foot of a broken and
mountainous region, along which, by the es-
tablishment of small posts in the neighbor-
hood of St. Vrain's fort, on the South ♦brk
of the Platte, and Bent's fort, on the Arkan-
sas, a line of communication would be formed,
by good wagon roads, with our southern mili-
tary posts, which would entirely command
the mountain passes, hold some of the most
troublesome tribes in check, and protect and
facilitate our intercourse with the neighboring
Spanish settlements. The valleys of the

rivers on which tliey would bo situated are
fertile ; the country, which supports immense
herds of buflaln, is admirably adapted to
grazing ; and herds of cattle might bo main-
tained by the peats, or obtained from the
Spanish country, which already supplies a
|)orti()ii of their provisions to the trading posts
mentioned above.

Just as we were leaving the camp thia
morning, our Indian came up, and stated his
intention of not proceeding any furtlier until
he had seen the horse which I intended to
tfive him. I felt strongly tempted to drive
him out of the camp ; but his presence ap-
|)earcd to give confiaence to my men, and the
interpreter thought it absolutely necessary.
I was therefore obliged to do what he re-
quested, and pointed out the animal, with
which he seemed satisfied, and we continued
our journey. I had imagined that Mr. Bis-
sonette's long residence nad made him ac-
quainted with the country, and, according to
his advice, proceeded directly forward, with-
out attemptmg to regain the usual road. He
afterward informed me that he had rarely
ever lost sight of the fort ; but the effect of
the mistake was to involve us for a day or
two among the hills, where, although we
lost no time, we encountered an exceedingly
roiigh road.

To the south, along our line of march to-
day, the main chain of the Black or Laramie
hills rises precipitously. Time did not permit
me to visit them ; but, from comparative in-
formation, the ridge is composed of the coarse
sandstone or conglomerate hereafter de-
scribed. It appears to enter the region of
clouds, which are arrested in their course,
and lie in masses along the summits. An
inverted cone of black cloud (cumulus) rest-
ed during all the forenoon on the lofty peak
of Laramie mountain, which I estimated to
be about two thousand feet above the fort, or
six thousand five hundred above the sea. We
halted to noon on the Fourche Amire, so
called from being timbered principally with
the Hard amire (a species of poplar), with
which the valley of tne little stream is tole-
rably well wooded, and which, with large
expansive summits, grows to the height of
sixty or seventy feet.

The bed of the creek is sand and gravel,
the water dispersed over the broad bed in
several shallow streams. We found here,
on the right bank, in the shade of the trees,
a fine spring of very cold water. It will be
remarked that I do not mention, in this por-
tion of the journey, the temperature of the
air, sand, springs, &c. — an omission which
will be explained in the course of the nar-
rative. In mv Hearch for plante, I was well
rewarded at tnis place. **

With the change in the ^ological forma-
tion on leaving Fort Laramie, the whole face

CAPT. FREM0NT8 NARRATIVE.

[1849.

184

r I

of the country hw cniirrly altorrd ita ap-
pearance. Eaitwanl of tiiut meridian, the
principal object! which striko the eye of a
traveller are the absonce of tiink'r, and the
immenM oxpaoHn of prairie, Cdvorod with
the verdure of rich grnimei', and highly adapt-
ed for pRKturajfc. Whenever thoy are not
dJHtiirlx'd l»y iho vicinity dI nmii, liirg*' henln
>»f buffalo give animation to tliiH country.
Westward of liaramio river, the rej^ion in
nandy, and apparently Blerilo ; and the place
of the graaa la usurped by the arlrmhia and
other odoriferous plants, to whose crovvth
the sandy soil and dry air of thiM elevated
region seem highly favorable.

One of the prominent characteristics in
the face of the country is the extraordinary
abundance of the artemisias. Thev grow
everywhere — on the hills, and over the river
bottoms, in tough, twisted, wiry clumpH ; and,
wherever the beaten track was Ictl, thev ren-
dered the progress of the carts rough and
slow. As the country increased in elevation
on our advance to the west, they increased
in size ; and the whole air is strongly im-
pregnated and saturated with the odor of
camphor and spirits of turpentine which be-
longs to this plant. This climate has been
found very favorable to the restoration of
health, particularly in cases of consumption ;
iind possibly the respiration of air so highly
impregnated with aromatic plants may have
t^ome inffuence.

Our dried meat had ^iven out, and we be-
nan to be in want of tood ; but one of the
hunters killed an antelope this evening, which
aSurded some relief, although it did not go
far among so many hungry men. At 8
*'clock at night, after a march of twenty-
ocven miles, we reached our proposed en-
campment on the Fer-i-C/ieia/, or Horse-
shoe creek. Here we found good grass,
with a great quantity of -pr^le, which fur-
nished ^ood food for our tired animals. This
creek is well timbered, principally with
Hard amire, and, with the exception of Deer
creek which we had not yet reached, is the
largest affluent of the right bank between
Laramie and the mouth of the Sweet Water.

July 23. — The present year had been one
of unparalleled drought, and throughout tlie
countrjr the water had been almost dried up.
By availing themselves of the annual rise,
the traders had invariably succeeded in car-
rying their fura to the Missouri; but this
aeason, as has already been mentioned, on
both forks of the Platte they had entirely
failed. The greater number of the springs,
and many of the streams, which made halt-
ing places for the voyageurs, had been dried
up. Everywhere the soil looked parched
and burnt ; the scanty yellow grass crisped
under the foot, and even the hardiest plants
were destroyed by want of moisture. I

think it neceeaary to mention this fact, be-
cause to the rapid evaporation in auch an
elevated region, nearly Hve thousand feet
above the sea, aimont wholly unprotected by
timber, Hhoiild bo attributed much of the
bterile appt^aranco of the country, in the de-
struction of vegetation, and the numerous
saline vHlorescenceH which covered the
ground. Such 1 afterward found to U) the
case.

I was informed that the roving villages of
Indians and travellers had never met witVi
dithculty in finding an abundance of grass
for their horses ; and now it was alter great
search that we were able to find a scanty
patch of grass, sufficient to keep them from
sinking; and in the course of a day or two
they began to suffer very much. We found
none tcMlay at noon ; and, in the course of
our search on the I'latte, came to a grove of
cotton-wood, where some Indian village had
recently encamped. Boughs of the cotton-
wood yet green covered the ground, which
the Indians had cut down to feed their horses
upon. It is only in the winter that recourse
is had to this means of sustaining them ;
and their resort to it at this time was a strik-
ing evidence of the state of the country.
We followed their example, and turned our
horses into a grove of young poplars. Thi»
began to present itself as a very serious evil,
for on our animals depended altogether the
further prosecution of our journey.

Shortly after wo had left this place, the
scouts came galloping in with the alarm of
Indians. We turned in immediately toward
the river, which here had a steep high bank,
where we formed with the caits a very close
barricade, resting on the river, within which
the animals were strongly hobbled and pick-
eted. The guns were discharged and re-
loaded, and men thrown forward, under cover
of the bank, in the direction by which the
Indians were expected. Our interpreter,
who, with the Indian, had gone to meet them,
came in, in about ten minutes, accompanied
by two Sioux. They looked sulky, and we
could obtain from them only some confused
information. We learned that they belonged
to the party which had been on the trail of
the emigrants, whom they had overtaken at
Rock Independence, on the Sweet Water.
Here the party had disagreed, and came
nigh fighting among themselves. One por-
tion were desirous of attacking the whites,
but the others were opposed to it ; and
finally they had broken up into small bands,
and dispersed over the country. The greater
portion of them had gone over into the terri-
tory of the Crows, and intended to return by
the way of the Wind river valley, in the hope of
being able to fall upon some small parties of
Crow Indians. The remainder were return-
ing down the Platte, in scattered parties of

ten

encc

voci

ral

the

any

little

U'eii

V i

11842.

1843.]

CAPT. FRKMONT'H NARRATIVE.

Ilia fact, be>
in luch an
juaand feet
irotected by
uch of tho
r, in the do>
I numoroiia
nvered tho
id tu be thu

villages of
r met witVi
:e of graiH
alter great
d a scanty
I thom from
day or two

We found
I course of

a crove of
village had
tho cotton-
und, which
heir horses
It recourse
ling them ;
vas a strilt-
e country,
turned our
lara. This
eriouB evil,
>gethcr the

place, tJic
e alarm of
ely toward
high bank,
very close
thin which
I and pick-
Mi and re-
nder cover
which tlie
nterpreter,
nect theii),
companied
, and we
confused
y belonged
he trail of
ertaken at
Bt Water,
and came
One por-
le whites,
) it ; and
lall bands,
he greater
the terri-
return by
:he hope of
parties of
ire return-
parties of

len and twenty ; and those whom we had
encouiitrrml belonged to thomt who had ad-
voratt'd an attack on the oiiiigrantH. Seve-
ral of tho irion suggowtt'd Nhnoting thttni on
the spot ; but I promptly diMCountoniiiiced
any such proceeding. Tliey further inlorin-
(>d inn that huHklo were very scarce, and
little or iin grass to Im found. There had
1)0011 no rain, and innumerable (|uantitieH of
grasMhi)p|H>rN had destroyed the grans. 'I'ho
iiisectM iiad Iwen so numerous smce leaving
Fort lAramio, that the ground Hoomcd nlivc
with them ; and in walking, a little moving
cloud preceded our footsteps. This was bad
news. No grass, no butialo— food tor nei-
ther horse nor man. I gave them some
plugs of tobacco, and they wont off, appa-
rently well mitisfied to be clear of us; for
my men !id not look upon them very loving-
ly, and they glanced suspiciously at our war-
like preparations, and the little ring of rifles
which surrounded them. They were evi-
dently in a bad humor, and shot one of their
horses when they had loll us a nliort dis-
taaee.

We continued our march, and, after a
journey of about twenty-one miles, encamped
on tho Platte. During tho day, I had occa-
sionally remarked among the hills the psora-
lea esculenta, tho bread root of the Indians.
The Sioux use this root very extensively, and
I have frequently mot with it among them,
cut into thin slices and dried. In the
course of the evening wo were visited by six
Indians, who told us that a large party was
encamped a few miles above. Astronomi-
cal observations placed us in longitude 1U4°
69' 69", and latitude 42o 39 26".

We mo.dd the next day twenty-two miles,
and encamped on the right bank of the
Platte, where a handsome meadow afforded
tolerably good grass. There were the re-
mains of an old fort here, thrown up in some
sudden emergency, and on the opposite side
was a picturesque bluff of ferruginous sand-
stone. There was a handsome grove a lit-
tle above, and scattered groups of trees bor-
dered the river. Bufhlo made their appear-
ance this afternoon, and the hunters came in,
shortly after we had encamped, with three
fine cows. The night was fine, and obser-
vations gave for the latitude of the camp,
420 47/ 4o»».

July 26. — We made but thirteen miles
this day, and encamped about noon in a
pleasant grove on the right bank. Low
scaffolds were erected, upon which the meat
was laid, cut up into thin strips, and small
fires kindled below. Our object was to prsfit
by the vicinity of the buffiilo, to lay in a
stock of provisions for ten or fifteen days.
In the coarse of the afternoon the hunters
brought in five or six cows, and all hands
were kept bnsUy employed in preparing the

meat, to tho drying o. which tho guard at«
tended diirin|^ the night. Our [M'oplo had
rerovnred th«»ir gaiety, und tho bu^y figures
around the blazing tln^H gt\o a pirturpuque
iiir to tho camp. A very serious arculi'nt
wi rred this morning, in the fm'Hking of
oiii- of ilui baroiiioters. These had been the
object of my constant solicitude, and, hh I
had intended tbcin principally for mountain
Hprvirc, I bad used them as seldoiii as [Kif-
siblo; taking them always down at night,
and on the occurrence of storms, in onii-r to
loHion tho chances of being broken. I was
reduced to one, a standard baronioter ol
Troughton's construction. This 1 determin-
ed to preserve, if pssible. The latitude in
42° 61 ' 36", and by a mean of tho results
from chronometer and lunar distances, the
adopted longitude of this camp is lUd** 60'
46".

July 26. — Early this morning wo were
again in motion. We had a stock oi pro-
visions for fifteen days carefully stored away
in the carts, and this I resolved should only
be encroached upon when our rifles should
fail to procure us present support. I de-
termined to reach the mountains, it it were
in liny way possible. In the meantime, buf-
falo were plenty. In six miles from our
encampment ^which, by way of distinction,
we shall call Dried Meat camp), we crosset.
a handsome stream, called La Fourche
Itoisie. It is well timbered, and, among the
flowers in bloom on its banks, I remarked
several asters.

Five miles further, wo made our noon halt
on tho banks of the Platte, in the shade of
some cotton-woods. There wero here, as
generally now along the river, thickets of
hii>puj)ha<jc, tho grains de bceuf of the coun-
try. They were of two kinds — one bearing
a red berry (the shepherdia arcentia of
Nuttall) ; the other a yellow berry, of
which the Tartars are said to make a kind
of rob.

By a meridian observation, the latitude of
the place was 42° 60' 08". It was my daily
practice to take observations of Jie sun's
meridian altitude ; and why they are not
given, will appear in the sequel. Eight
miles further we reached the mouth of Deer
creek, where we encamped. Here was an
abundance of rich grass, and our animals
were compensated for past privations. This
stream was at this time twenty feet broad,
and well timbered with cotton-wood of an
uncommon size. It is the largest tributary
of the Platte, between the mouth of the
Sweet Water and tlie Laramie. Our astro-
nomical observations gave for the mouth of
the stream a longitude of 106° 08' 24", and
latitude 42° 62' 24".

July 27. — Nothing worthy of mention oc-
curred on this day ; we travelled later thaa

ii.

CAPT. FRKMONT'8 NARRATIVK.

uiual, having upoiit lonto time in Hcurchinff
for gnu, croamntf ami ro-crunMing Un* river
beluro we could tind a iiulHcit lit i|iiaiitily tor
our animalH. Toward dunk, wo t'iirttmp«'d
among noino arteiniiia Ituitlu-K, two and ilirop
fo«l in height, where hoiiio KCiilti'ri'd |mli Ihh
of ahort tough grauM iillbrdi-d u Hcnnly miio-
ply. In crooning, wo had occuHion to oh-
Borvo (hat the river wan fro<|ia'iitly too di-op
to U* lorded, though we alwayn Hiicc»'i'di'd
III rii.,!ing a place wlicre tlio water did not
niter the carU. The Htreain coiitimii'd verv
clear, with two or three hundred feet breadth
I > of water, and the iandy bed and bmik« were

Irecjuently covered with largo round jiebbleH,
Wo had travelled this day twenty-ceven
inilcB. The main chain of tho Black hills
wan here only about Hcven iniiea to Uie
Houth, on the right bank of the rivor, riHiiig
abruptly to the height of eight and twelve
hundred feet. Patches of green grass in
the ravines on the steep sides marked tha
presence of springs, and the smnmitd were
clad with pines.

July 28.— In two miles from our encamp-
ment, wo reached the place where the regu-
lar road crosses the IMatte. There was two
hundred feet breadth of water at this time in
the bed, which has a variable width of eight
to flfleen hundred feet. The channels were
generally three feet deep, and there were
largo angular rocks on the bottom, which
made the ford in some places a little ditH-
cult. Even at its low stages, this river
cannot be crossed at raiidoin, and this has
always been UHcd as the best ford. The
low stage of the waters the present year
had mme it fordable in almost any part of
its coitfse, where access could be bad to its
bed.

For the satisfaction of travellers, I will
endeavor to give some description of the na-
ture of the road from Laramie to this point.
The nature of the soil may be inferred from
its geological formation. The limestone at
the eastern limit of this section is succeeded
by limestone without fossils, a ^reat variety
of sandstone, consisting principally of red
sandstone and fine congfomerates. The red
sandstone is argillaceous, with compact
white gypsum or alabaster, very beautiful.
The other sandstones are grey, yellow, and
ferruginous, sometimes very coarse. The
apparent sterility of the country must there-
fore be sought tor in other causes than the
nature of the soil. The face of the country
cannot with propriety be called hilly. It is
a succession of long ridges, made by the nu-
merous streams which come down from the
neighboring mountain range. The ridges
have an undulating surface, with some such
appearance as the ocean presents in an ordi-
DAnr breeze.
- The road which is now generally followed

thn>iigh thm region in thercforo a very good
one, Without any dilHciilt aacrnta to over-
come. 'I'hv urinripal obatructiona are ne^r
th« river, wlivre the transifut waters of
heavy riiinN have made deep ravine* with
hteep twnks, which rendorK frequent rircuita
nerexHury. It will Iw remembered that wa-
gons paHH this road only once or twiee a
year, which i«i by no nieana aulUrient to
Lrt'iik down the stublx^rn roots <■.' *.ho iunu-
iiierable artemiitia buKhva. A fmrtial ab-
Hence of theHe Ih olten Uie only indication of
the tnick -, and the roughnoHa produced by
their roots in many places gives the nmd the
character of one newly opened in a wooded
country. This in usually considered tlic
v.'omt |Hirt of the road east ol the mountains ;
and, as it passes through an open prairie
region, may be much improved, ho as to
avoid the greater part of the inequalities it
now presents.

From the mouth of the Kansas to the
(ireen river valley, vest of the Rocky moun-
tains, there is no such tiling as a mountain
road on the line of communication.

We continued our way, and four miles
beyond the ford Indians were discovered
again ; and I halted while a party were sent
forward to ascertain who they were. In a
short time they returned, accompanied bv a
number of Indians of the Oglallab band of
Hioux. From them we received some inter-
esting informe.tioii. They had formed part
of the great village, which they nforiued us
had broken up, and was on ita way home.
The greater part of tlie village, including the
Arapahoos, Cheyennes, and Oglallahs, had
crossed the Platte eight or ten miles below
the mouth of the Sweet Water, and wcro
now behind the mountains to the south of
us, intending to regain the Platte by way of
Deer creek. They had taken this unusual
route in search of grass and game. They
gave u.s a very discouraging picture of the
country. The great drought, and the plague
of grasshoppers, had swept it so that scarce
a blade of grass was to be seen, and thdre
was not a bulValo to be found in the whole
region. Their people, they further said, had
been nearly starve<l lo deatli, and we would
find their road ma ^ed by lodges which tliey
had thrown away in order to move more ra-
pidly, and by the carcasses of the horses
which they had eaten, or which had perished
by starvation. Such was the prospect be-
fore us.

When he had finished the interpretation
of these things, Mr. Bissonette immediately
rode up to me, and urgently advised that!
should entirely abandon the further prosecu-
tion of my exploration. " Le nuUleure avis
que je pourrats vous dormer c'esl de virer de
suite." " The best advice 1 can give you,
I is to turn back at once." It was hia owa

iiite

the

mn.

had

ol t

but

[it4J.

IS48.]

CAIT. FIIKMONT'S NARIIATIVK.

wry guoU
a lo over-
R Km n«wr

wiitcra o(
vinoM with
int rirciiiUi

(1 tlllll WA-

jt twice a
ilUritmt to

'.lio iunu-
imrtial Hb>
dicKtinn of
utliici'd by
le roiid Uie
I a wnodud
idurvd Uic
nouiitaini ;
)cii pmirie

HO M to
qualitiea it

laa to the
icky inoun-
mountain
I.

four mile*

diHcuvereU

' wero unt

'«re. In a

anicd bv a

kb band of

some inter-

uriiicd part

iiformed ub

vay home.

udingthe

hihs, had

les below

and were

80Uth of

by way of

is unuBual

ne. They

uro of the

;lie plague

lat scarce

and thdre

tlui whole

r said, had

wc would

v'hich tliey

more ra-

he horses

,d perished

ospect be-

irpretation
imediately
sed that I
r prosecu-
lleure avis
de virer de
give you,
hia owa

liitantiun Id return, an w« had now reached
the* (Hiiiit to which h« hud tMiKH^*'*' '<> •ittcnd
me. Ill reply, I called up my men, iiiid ciiin-
muninited to them fully the iiifurmatinn I
had |iin( received. I then exprcNMiMl to them
my lixi'il deterininalioii to proceed to the end
of the eiiterpriNe on which I hiul iK'en nent ;
but as the iiituation of the country ({ave iiie
Home reiiAon to apprehend tiiut it mi^ht he
attended with un iinlortuniite rewuit to Mnmo
of UH, I would leave it optional with thvm to
cnnliniiu with mu or to return.

Amoni; them wero some Hvo or six who I
know would remain. We had Htill ten diiyit'
provisioiiH ; and, should no i^mo be found,
when this stock was ex|)onded, wo had our
horscH and mules, which wc could eat when
other moans of subsistence failed. Uut not
a man tlinched from tlie undertaking.
" We'll cut the mules," said Basil liajeiines-
M) ; and thereunon wc sho«)k hands with our
interpreter and his Indians, and parted.
With tiiem 1 Hcnt back one of my men,
Dum^ri, whom the elFcctrt of an old wound
in the log rendered incapalilo nf continuing
the journey on foot, and his horse seemed on
tlic point of giving out. Having resolved lo
disencumlicr ourselves immediately oi every-
thing not absolMtely necessary to our future
operations, 1 turned directly in toward the
river, and encamped on t'<o letl bank, a little
above the place where our council had Iteen
hold, uiid where a thick gro.-» of willows
odered a suitable spot for the obj->ct I had in
view.

The carts having been dischargi-l, the
covers and wheels were taken oft*, and, with
the frames, carried into some low phices
among the willows, and concealed in the
dense foliage in such a manner that the glit-
ter of the iron work might not attract the ob-
servation of some Btraggl'ng Indian. In the
Band, which had been blown up into waves
among the willows, a large hole was then
dug, ten feet square, and six deep. In the
meantime, all our effects had been spread
out upon the ground, and whatever was de-
flignea to be carried along with us separated
and laid asiiie, and the remaining part car-
ried to the hole and carefully covered up.
As much as possible, all traces of our pro-
ceedings were obliterated, and it wanted but
a rain to render our cache safe beyond dis-
covery. All the men were now set at work
to arrange the pack-saddles and make up the
juicks.

The day was very warm ajid calm, aiid
the sky entirely clear, except where, as
UBual along the aummits of the mountainous
ridge opposite, the clouds had congregated
in masses. Our lodge had been planted,
and on account of the heat, the ground pins
hod been taken out, and the lower part
•lightly raised. Near to it was standing the

Iwrometer, which swung in a tripo«| frame ;
and within tho liMlge, where a ■mall lire had
Im'cii built, Mr. I'reuMS was occupied in ob-
serving the tem|M>ratiirn of boiling water.
At iIiIn inslajit, and without any wurning
until it was within lifty yards, a viniiitt gust
of wii»l ilushed (town the Itnlge, Imryiiiix un-
der it Mr. I'reiiMN and alNuit a ili>/.en men,
who had attempted to keep it Irom U>ing
carried away. I Hucceedeo in caving the
barometer, which the IinI^o was currying oil'
with itself, but tho thurmomuter vv;ih liroken.
Wo had no others of a high graduation, none
of those which remained going higher than
13fi-> Fahrenheit. Our astronomical olwor-
vations gave to this place, which wo named
(^(iche camp, a Icmgitude of lOG" 38' 20",
latitude t'io 60' 63' .

July 'JO. — All our arrangement ^ having
been completed, we loft the encnnipmont at
7 o'clock this morning. In tliis vicinity the
ordinary road leaves tho Platte, and crosses
over to the Hwcet '.V.tter river, which it
Ntrikos near Rock indej)endence. Instead
of following this road, i had determined to
keep the immediate valley of tho I'lalto so
far as the mouth of tho Sweet Water, in the
expectation of tinding better grass. To this
I was further prompted by the nature of my
instructions. To Mr. Carson was assigned
the oiKcc of guide, as we had now reached
a part of the country with which, or a great
part of which, long residence had iimdu liim
familiar. In a few miles we reached the
Red Biittes, a famous landmark in this coun-
try, whose geological compoeition is rod
saiulstonc, limestone, and calcareous sand-
stone and pudding stone.

The river here cuts its way through a
ridge ; on the eastern side of it arc tho lolly
escarpments of red argillaceous sandstone,
which are called the Red Buttes. In this
passage the stream is not much compresse<i
or pent up, there being a bank of consider-
able though variable breadth on cither side.
Immediately on entering, we discovered a
band of buftalo. The hunters failed to kill
any of them ; the leading hunter being
thrown into a ravine, which occasioned some
delay, and in the meantime the herd clam-
bered up the steep face of the ridge. It is
sometimes wonderful to see these apparently
clumsy animals make their way up and
down the most rugged and broken preci-
pices. We halted to noon before we had
cleared this passage, at a spot twelve miles
distant from Cache camp, where we found
an abundance of grass. So far, the account
of tlie Indians was found to be false. On
the banks were willow and cherry trees.
The cherries were not yet ripe, but in the
thickets were numerous fresh tracks of the

Srrizzly bear, which are very fond of this
ruit. The soil here ia red, the composition

. 'L

CAIT PRF.MONTH NARRATrVK.

fl84l

II I

\ming (lerivad fri>m tli« ri*(i Mnii«lMii>n«>.
Abixil M0ven milva brf>uf(ht um ihrDiitrh th«*
ritlK*), ill which Urn rournc nl l\w rivi»r i«
north mill Mouth. Il«>n« thn vkIIi'Y <>|w<iim out
bmailly, niui hioh wkIU of the nt\ rorinntinn
pr«M>tit thi'iiiMlVPa aiiiontf lh« hillx to th«>
••tilt. Wo (TotHWil hrrv n |tn'tty littli>rrp<'k,
ui) ntlltii'iit of the ri^ht luink. It in wi'll
tiinlM*rcil with rottoii-wiKMl in thin viriiiity,
HMil till' MliMiiilh)^ hsH limt itN xliriilHhko chiir-
neti'T, hihI In'Cdiiii'm iiniuil irvcx Hix nnil «*iirht

iMUtIt

itfvt in ht<i((ht, ami Monx'tinx'N «>i|{ht in<'ii(*M
in (linmulcr. Two or thrrr inilcN rImvh tbiM
cre«k wn inail<< our cnrninpini'nt, having
travelled tiMlny twonty>livi> niili'H. Ouriuii-
mala fared wi.*ll li<>rr, hh tliorr in an ithiin-
dancn of Kniaa, Tlio rivpr bed ia nrndi* up
of pvbbioH, and in tlio twtik, at the lt>vi>l of
the water, ia a coniflompratp of conrac pv\t-
bloa alHiut tho aizH of oatrirli vgft^, and
which I riMuarked in tlip Imnka of tho Ijiru-
mie fork. It la ovrriaid by a Hoil of mixed
elay and aund, aix feet thick. Ky iiHlrono-
nioai obacrvationa, our poaition ia in Jon^^i-
tudo UHi° 6V 3'I", and latitude V2° IW.

July 30. — After trHvellinif alKiut twelve
milea thia morning, we rcucliud it pliicu where
tho Indian villaf^e had croaacd the river.
Hero wcid the puiea of discurdod hnlprea and
■kelctona of huraca lyinff about. Air. Car-
ion, who had never been hiji^hcr uptimn thia
^int on tho river, which Ima tho diameter
.if beini^ exceedingly rugged, and walled in
by prncipicca above, thought it adviaabic to
camp near this place, where wo were certain
of obtaining graaa, and tomorrow make our
oroaaing among tho rugged hilla to tho Mwect
Water river. Accordingly we turned back
and descended the river to an itiland near by,
which was about twenty acrea in size, cover-
ed with a luxuriant growth of graaa. Tho
formation here I found highly intereating.
Immediately at thia ialnnd the river ia again
shut up in tho rugged hilla, which coinn
down to it from the main ridge in a auccca-
sion of spurs three or four hundred feet high,
and alternated with green level prairiUovs or
meadows, bordered on the river banks with
thickets of willow, and having many plants
to interest the traveller. The island lies be-
tween two of these ridges, three or four
hundred yards apart, of which that on the
right banK is composed entirely of red argil-
laceous sandstone, with thin layers of fibrous
gypsum. On the left bank, tlie ridge is com-
posed entirely of siliceous pudding stone, the
pebbles in the numerous strata increasing in
size from the top to the bottom, where they
are as large as a man's head. So far a.s I
was able to determine, these strata incline to
the northeast, with a dip of about 16". This
pudding stone, or conglomerate formation, I
was enabled to trace through an extended
range of country, from a few miles cast of

the meriillnii of Fort lAramiA to whom ,
I'liund It aii|M<rp<M«*«l on tho grunitn of thi.
KiK-ky nioiintaina, in longitude lOlP 00'.
From ila apiH'iirance, lh<« main cliiiin of the
l<Nniini>< mmiiitain ia coni|Mm«Ml ol thia r')ck ;
and in a inimlM<r of |iliirea I found inotated
IiiIIh, which aervcd to mark a SiirMer level
which had been prolmbly awept away.

Theae roiiuloineriitea are very friable, and
eaaily ilecoin|Hiae«i ; and 1 am inclined to
ihink lliiM formation ia the aource from which
wiia derived the great de|MMito of aand and
gravel which lorina the surface rock of tlie
prairie country weat of tho Miaaiaaippi.

< 'roaaing the ridgu of n>d aandatone, and
traverning the little prairie which liea to the
aoiithward of it, we made in tho arieriuKin an
exciiraion to a place which we have called
tho Hot Hpring (iato. Thia place hiia much
the Hp|M>arance of a gate, by which the
I'laltu paaaea through a ridge oom|M)aed of a
white and calcareoiia atindatone. i'he length
r)f tho paaaage ia almut four hundred yards,
with a amoolh green prairie on either aide.
Thr«)ugh thia place, the stream flows with a
(|uiet current, unbroken by any rapid, and ia
alK)Ut seventy yards wido between the walla,
which rise |>er|)cndicularly from the water.
1*o that on the right bank, which ia the
lower, the barometer gave a height of three
hundred and sixty loot. This place will be
moro iiarticularly doHcriM hereafter, aa we
paaaetl through it on our return.

We saw hero numerous herds of mountain
sheep, and frc(iuently heard tho volley of
rattling stones which accompanied their rapid
descent down tho steep hills. This was the
first place at which we had killed any of
theae animals ; and, in conseauonce of thia
circumstance, and of the abundance of these
aheep or goats (for they are called by each
name), we gave to our encampment the name
of Ci'.u^. Island. Their flesh is much cs-
teem.Ml by the hunters, and has very much
the flavor of the Allegany mountain sheep.
1 lin e frequently seen tho horns of this ani-
mal three feet long and seventeen inches in
circumference at the base, weighing eleven

faunds. But two or three of these were
illed by our party at this place, and of these
tho horns were small. The use of these
horns seems to be to protect the animal's
head in pitching down precipices to avoid
pursuing wolves — their only safety being in

E laces where they cannot lo followed. The
ones arc very strong and solid, the marrow
occupying but a very small portion of the
bone in tne leg, about the thickness of a rye
straw. The Tiair is short, resembling the
winter color of our common deer, which it
nearly approaches in size and appearance.
Except in the horns, it has no resemblance
whatever to the goat. The longitude of this
place, resulting irom chronometer and lunar

<li
l<
<»

•4

<M.

[1841

to whitra •
'iinitn (i| thk
« luir* oo*.

clinii) ol th«
(It ihiM r»ck ;

iiikI ixiHltlttJ

i)r»-.rttr levol

•way.

r friable, and

ini'liru'il to
n Irom which
ot Matiii anil

rocli (if Uie
iii«iii|i|ii.
luNtdiitt, anU
;h lu'H t(i tlui
all<>rti(Kin an

liavn (-allcti
re liiia much
y which th(>
inuNiHcd (if a

'i'hti \f>ngO\
ndrnd yanls,
) oitlicr aide.
HuwN with a
rapid, and ia
en tho walJH,
II tho water,
irhich in the

frht of three
ace will b«
Bailer, an we

of mountain

10 volley of

>d their rapid

'hiH waa the

led any of

idncc of thiii

nee of these

ed by each

nt the name

much cfl-

very much

ntain sheep.

of this ani-

!n incheH in

lin^; eleven

these were

and of these

se of these

ie animal's

es to avoid

ty being in

3wed. The

the marrow

rtion of the

ess of a rve

imblinff the

r, which it

ippearance.

"esemblance

itude of this

r and lunar

I84S)

CAI'T. KttK.\l()NT'S NARRATIVB.

diatancoii, and an uccultation of Armtia, i»
107'* i:i' 'JD", and the latitude lU' AA 'AT'.
()ii« (if our hiiriteii, whirh had ({iveti <iut, we
It'll l<> receive Nlri'Mtflh on (lie i»liiud, intend-
\>m lo take her, |N>rlii(pi«, on our rvturii.

July ;j|. — Thii inoriiliiK we hill the roiirne
ol the I'lalte, to i-riMa over to the Hweet VVa-
iiT Our wriy, fur a tew tiiili'M, lay up the
•andy InmI ol a dry creek, in which I lound
■•evoriil iiiteri'iitiitt( phiiilM, liiMtvintf thin, we
Wound our WHy to the Kiiniinit ol tho IiiIIh.
ol which the [MMtkii itn* here eiKht hundred
leet iilNivn the I'lulte, Imre and rocky. A
laii|; tiiid ifradiial hI(i|mi led from theiie hilU
liv^lio Hweet Water, which we reached in
liltccii inileM troin (ioiit Uhuid. 1 made an
i-arly encuinpineiit here, in order t« kIvh the
liuiiterN ua (ip|Mirtunity to iirocuro a aupply
Iroiu acveral liandN ol biiDald, which made
their apiMmriince in the valhiy near by. 'i'lie
htriMin hero is about sixty leet wide, and at
ihJH lime twelve to eighteen inchcH deep,
with a very inuderato ci rrent.

The adj<iinint( prairies are luindy, but the
immediuto river bottom is a umA soil, which
iittorded an abundaiico of sott (rreeii ifrass to
our horses, and where I lound a variety of
iiitereHtini{ plants, which nuide their ap|M>ar-
aiice for thu tirst time. A rain tu-ni){ht
iniuie It unpleasantly cold ; and there was no
tree hero, to enable us to pitch our single
tent, the poles of which had been left at
Cacke camp. We had, therefore, no shelter
except what was to bu found under cover of
the absinthe bushes, which f^row in many
thick patches, one or two and sometimes
tliree feet high.

AuKmt 1. — The hunters went ahead this
ritoniing, as buiTalo ap(iearod tolerably abun-
dant, and I was desirous to secure a small
stock of provisions ; and we moved about
Mcvon miles up the valley, and oncainpcd one
mile below Rock independence. This is an
JKoliited Gfranite rock, about six hundred and
lilty yarcFs lon)^, and forty in height, tlxcept
in a depression of the summit, where a little
soil supports a scanty (growth of shrubs, with
a solitary dwarf pine, it is entirely bare.
Kverywhere within six or eight feet of the
^rround, where tho surface is sufRciently
Hmootli, and in some places sixty or eighty
feet above, the rock is inscribed with the
names of travellers. Many a name famous
in the history of this country, and some well
known to science, ai > to be found mixed
among those of the traders and of travellers
lor pleasure and curiosity, and of missiona-
ries among the savages. Some of these
have been washed away by the rain, but the
greater number are still very legible. The
position of this rock is in longitude 107° 66',
latitude 42° '29> 36". We remained at our
camp of August lb. until noon of the next
day, occupied in drying meat. By observa-

liotl, the hitiKiliidi' of the placfl is 107* 'iA
•J3", latitude A'A"^ r.r fl6-".

■luffuit '2. — Five miles above Rock hide-

Iiendenre we came lo u place railed the
)evirs iUle, where the Hweet Water rutu
through the (mint of a uranito ridife. The
length of the imisiige is aliout three hundred
yardu, and tho width thirty-tlve ynrdx. Tho
walls of rock iiri' vertical, sml ttlioni lour
hiindriMl f)>i>t III height; and the Mlroiiiu in
the ((ate is ulino«t entirely choked up hy
imtttteM which have lUlleii Irom aliove. in the
wall, on the right Imiik, im adike of trap rock,
cutting through a tiiii>-grained grey granite.
Near tlie iioint of Ibis ridge crop out some
strata of the valley formation, consisting ol a
grey ishmirareouHt*Hndi«t(>ne, and fine-grained
coiiglom)*rate, and marl. We encamped eight
miles atiove the Devil's (iate. There was
no tiuilN'r ot any kind on the river, but good
tirrii w«>re made of drift wood, aided by the
/loi.i ill- vac.he.

Wo had to-night no shelter from tho rain,
which commenced with s(|iialls of wind about
KuiMut. The ('(iiinlry here is exceedingly
picturesque. On either side of the valley,
wliich in four or five miles broad, the moun-
tains rise to the height of twelve and tillcen
hundred or two tliou.xand tcet. On tho south
side, the range ii[i|iears to bo timbered, and
to-night is luminous with tires — probably the
work of the Indians, who havo just passed
through the valley. On thu north, broken
and priip'.'o masses rise abruptly from tho
green Nward of tho river, terminating in a
riiio of broken summits. Except in the cre-
vices of tlie rock, and hero and there on a
ledgo or bench of the mountain, where a few
hardy pines havt) clustered together, these
are perfectly bare and destitute of vegetation.

Among these masses, where there arc
somotimea isolated hills and ridges, green
valleys open in u|ion the river, which sweeps
the base of those mountains for thirty-six
miles. Everywhere its deep verdure and
profusion of beautiful flowers is in pleasing
contrast witii the sterile grandeur of the rock
and the barrenness of the sandy plain, which,
from the right bank of the river, sweeps up
to the mountain range that forms its south-
ern boundary. The great evaporation on the
sandy soil of this elevated plain, and the sa-
line efnorescences which whiten the ground,
and shine like lakes reflecting the sun, make
a soil wholly unfit for cultivation.

August 3. — We were early on the road
the next morning, travelling along tho up-
land part of the valley, whicn ia overgrown
with artemisia. Scattered about on the
plain are occasional small isolated hills.
One of these which I have examined, about
fifty feet high, consisted of white clay and
marl, in nearly horizontal strata. Several
bands of buffiilo made their appearance t(K

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATrV^E.

[1842

I84S

:M[!

Ill

day, with herds of antel()|i»» ; and a grizzly
bear — the only one wo encountered during
the journey — waH seen scruinbling up among
the rocks. As we passed over a nliglit rise
near the river, we caugiit tlie first view of
tlie Wind river inountains, appearing, at this
distance of about seventy miles, to be a low
and dark mountainous ridge. The view dis-
bipaled in a moment the pictures which had
been created in our minds, by many descrip-
tions of travellers, who have compared these
mountains to the Alps in Switzerland, and
speak ol the glittering peaks which rise in
icy majesty amidst the eternal glaciers nine
or ten thousand feet into the region of eter-
nal snows. The nakedness of the nver was
relieved by groves of willows, where we en-
camped at night, after a march of twenty-six
miles ; and numerons bright-colored flowers
had made the river bottom look gay as a gar-
den. We found here a horse, which liad
been abandoned by the Indians, because his
hoofs had been so much worn tliat he was
unable to travel ; and during the night a dog
came into the camp.

August 4. — Our camp was at the foot of
the granite mountains, which wc climbed
this mo'ninp to take some barometrical
heights ; and nere among the rocks was seen
the iirst magpie. On our return, we saw
one at the mouth of the Platte river. We
left here one of our horses, which was una-
ble to proceed farther. A few miles from
the encampment we lett the river, which
makes a bend to the south, and traversing
an undulating country, consisting of a grey-
ish micaceous sandstone and fine-grained
conglomerates, struck it again, and encamp-
ed, after a journey of twenty-five miles. As-
tronomical observations placed us in latitude
4'i° 32'' 30^ and longitude lOS" 30' 13"

August 6. — ^The morning was dark, with
a driving raiq, and disagreeably cold. We
continued our route as usual ; but the wea-
ther became so bad, that we were glad to
avail ourselves of the shelter offered by a
small island, about ten miles above our last
encampment, which was covered with a
dense growth of willows. There was fine
grass for our animals, and the Umber afforded
us comfortable protection and good fires. In
the afternoon, the sun broke through the
clouds for a short time, and the barometer at
5, p. m., was at 23.713, the thermometer 60o,
with the wind strong from the northwest.
We availed ourselves of the fine weather to
make excursions in the neighborhood. The
river, at this place, is bordered by hills of the
valley formation. They e i of moderate
height ; one of the highest peaks on the right
bamc being, according to the barometer, one
hundred and eighty feet above the river. On
the left bank they are higher. They cohciSt
of a fine white clayey sandstone, a white

calcareous sandstone, and coarse sandstone
or pudding stone.

August 6. — It continued stpnilily raining
all the day ; but, notwithstandi.-j^, we left our
encampment in the afternoon. Our animals
had been much refreshed by their repose,
and an abundance of rich, soil grass, which
had been much improved by the rains. In
about three miles, we reached the entrance
of a kiinyon, where the Sweet Water isstiO'!
upon the more opon valley we had pnspcd
over. Immediately at the entrance, and su-
perimposed directly upon the granite, are
strata of compact calcareous sandstone and
chert, alternating with fine white and reddish
white, and fine grey and red sandstones.
These strata dip to the eastward at an anirJo
of about 18a, and form IJie western limit of
the sandstone and limestone formations on
the line of our route. Here we entpred
amon*r the primitive rocks. The usual road
passes to tne right of this place ; but wo
wound, or rather scrambled, our way up the
nar-r)w valley for several hours. Wildncss
and disorder wore the character of this
scenery. The river had been swollen by the
late rams, and came rushing through with
an impetuous current, three or four feet deep,
and generally twenty yards broad. The val-
ley was sometimes the breadth of the stream,
and sometimes opened into little green mea-
dows, sixty yards wide, with open groves of
aspon. The stream was bordered through-
out with aspen, beech, and willow ; and tall
pines grew on the sides and summits of the
crags. On both oides, the granite rocks rose
precipitously to the height of three hundred
and five hundred feet, terminating in jagged
and broken pointed peaks ; and fragments of
fallen rock lay piled up at the foot of the pre-
cipices. Gneiss, mica slate, and a white
B unite, were among the varieties I noticed,
ere were many old traces of beaver on the
stream ; remnants of dams, near which were
lying trees, which they had cut down, oi.e
and two feet in diameter. The hills entirely
shut up the river at the end of about five
miles, and we turned up a ravine that led to
a high prairie, which seemed to be the gene-
ral level of the country. Hence, to the sum-
mit of the ridge, there is a regular and very
gradual rise. Blocks of granite were piled up
at the heads of the ravines, and small bare
knolls of mica slate and milky quartz pro-
truded at frequent intervals on the prairie,
which was whitened in occasional spots with
email salt lakes, where the water had evapo-
rated, and left the bed cc ered with a shin-
ing incrustation ot salt. The evening was
very cold, a northwest wind driving a fine
rain in oub faces ; and at nightfall we de-
scended to a little stream, on which we en-
camped, about two miles from the Sweet
Water. Here had recently been a very

■ '#

large
some
uiuai
place
iiiado
;ntei
li'ini.'

I (isO(
(.!.|.

Ai\
ttif
the c
>(retc
trlille
dun
and it
rainei
and a
beaut
vallc y
It nov
forks
iiucd
when
noon
t>om
cpcnii

^l)0t,

beech

plants

The

[1842

oandstonc

ly raining
we left our
'uranimalfl
eir repose,
asa, which
rains. In
} entrance
atcr issues
lad passed
:e, and su-
ranite, are
Jstonc and
ind reddisi)
andstones.
it an anirlo
n limit of
nations on
'8 entered
usual rond
3 ; but wo
vay up the
Wilancss
sr of ihiH
lUen by the
•ough vvitl)
r feet deep,
, Theval-
:he stream,
rrcen mea-
groves of
i through-
; and tall
lits of the
rocks rose
e hundred
in jagged
gments of
of the pre-
i a white

I noticed.
ver on the
hich were
own, oue
Is entirely
ibout five
that led to
the gene-
) the sum-

and very
'e piled up
imall bare
lartz pro-
le prairie,
spots with
lad evapo-
a shin-
Ding was

ig a fine

II we de-
h we en-
he Sweet

a rerj

1843.]

CAl'T. i-nBrvioNT'a narraTIVH.

large camp of Snake and Crow Indians ; and
some large poies lying about utlbrded the
inoauH of pitching a tent, and making other
places of shelter. Our fires to-night were
made |.rincipally of the dry branches of the
aitemisia, which covered the slopes. It
li'irns quickly, with a clear oily flame, and
iiiiiki's a hot lire. The hills here are com-
|(isO(l (if hard, compact micaslate, with veins
ol ijuartz.

Amrusl 7. — We left our encampment with
till.' rising sun. As we rose from the bed of
ilie creek, the snow line of the mountains
^rretchcd grandly before us, the white peaks
flittering in the sun. They had been hid-
(Jlmi in the dark weather of the last few days,
and it had been snowing on them, while it
rained in the plains. We crossed a ridge,
and atrain struck the Sweet Water — here a
beautlli 1, swift stream, with a more open
valU y, timbered with beech and cotton wood.
It now began to lose itself in the many small
forks which make its head ; and we conti-
nued up tlie main stream until near noon,
when we left it a few miles, to make our
noon l.alt on a small creek among the hills,
<iH)m which the stream issues ny a sntll
<'[i(>tiiug. Within was a beautiful grassy
spot, covered with an open grove of large
Ijecch trees, among which I found several
plants that I had not previously seen.

The afternoon was cloudy, with scfiialls of
rain ; but the weather became fme at sun-
set, when we again encamped on *he Sweet
Water, within a few miles of the South
I'ass. The country over which we hn.ve
passed to-day consists principally of the
compact mica slate, which crops out on all
ridges, making the uplands very roc):y and
slaty. In the escarpments which bcier the
creeks, it is seen alternating with a light-
colored granite, at an inclination of 46°;
the beds varying in thickness from two or
three feet to six or eight hundred. At a dis-
tance, tlie granite frequently has the appear-
ance of irregular lumps ol clay, haroencd
by ex iosure. A variety of astern may now
be numbered among the characteristic
plants, and the artemisia continues in full
glory ; but ca^ti have become rare, and
mosses be^in to dispute the hills with them.
The evening was damp and unpleasant ; the
tliermometer, at 10 o'clock, being at 36°,
and the grass wet with a heavy dew. Our
astronomical observations placed this en-
campment in longitude 109° 21 ' 32'S and
latitude 42'^ 27' 16".

Early in the n^orning we resumed oui
journey, tSe weather still c'oudy, with occa-
sional rain. Our general course was west,
as I had determined to cross the dividing
ridge by a bridle path among the broken
co)intry more immediately at the foot of the
rnoantains, and return by the wagon road,

two and a half miles to the south of the point
where the trail crosses.

About six miles from our encampment
brought us to the summit, The ascent had
been so gradual, that, with all the intimate
knowledge possessed by Carson, who had
made this country his home for seventeen
years, we were obliged to watch very close-
ly to find the place at which we had reached
the culminating point. This was between
two low hills, rising on either hand fifty or
sixty feet. When I looked back at them,
from the foot of the immediate slope on the
western plain, their summits appeared to be
about one hundred and twenty feet above.
From the impression on my mind at this
lime, and subsequently on our return, I
should compare the elevation which we sur-
mounted immediately at the Pass, to the as-
cent of the Capitol hill from the avenue, at
Washington. It is difficult for me to fix
positively the breadth of this pass. From
the broken ground where it commences, at
the foot of the Wind river chain, the view
to the southeast is over a champaign coun*
try, broken, at the distance of nineteen miles,
by the Table rock ; which, with the other
isolated hills in its vicinity, seems to stand
on a comparative plain. This I judged to be
its termination, the ridge recovering its rug-
ged character with the Table rock. It wUI
be seen that it in no manner resembles the
places to which the term is commonly ap-
plied — nothing of the gorge-like character
and winding ascents of the Alleghany pass-
es in America; nothing of the Great St.
Bernard and Simplon passes in Europe.
Approaching it from the mouth of the Sweet
Water, a sandy plain, one hundred and
twenty miles long, conducts, by a gradual
and regular ascent, to the summit, about
seven thousand feet above the sea; and the
traveller, without being reminded of any
change by toilsome ascents, suddenly finds
himself on the waters which flow to the Pa-
citiv. ocean. By the route we had travelled,
the distance from Fort Laramie is three hun-
dred and twenty miles, or nine hundred and
fifty from the mouth of the Kansas.

Continuing our march, we reached, in
eight mile^ from the Pass, the Little Sandy,
one of the tributaries of the Colorado, or
Green river of the Gulf of California. The
weather had grown fine during the morning,
and we remamed here the rest of the day,
to dry our baggage and take some astrono-
mical observations. The stream was about
forty feet wide, and two or three deep, with
clear water and a full swift current, over a
sandy bed. It was timbered with a growth
of low bushy and dense willows, among
which were little verdant spots, which gave
our animals fine grass, and where I found a
number of interesting plants. Among tlM

neighboring hills I noticed fr.i^''cnts of
granite containing majjneiic iron. liongi-
tiidoof tho camp was 109"^ 37' 60", anu lati-
tude 42^ 37' 31'.

AitfTustQ. — We made otir noon halt to-
day on 3ig Sandy, another tributary of Green
river. The face of the country traversed
was of 11 brown sand of granite materials,
tho detritus of tho neighboring mountains.
Str.tta of the milky quartz cropped out, and
Mirlts of granite wore scattered about, con-
t lining magnetic iron. On Sandy creek the
fnrmation was of parti-colored sand, exhibit-
ed in csicarpmenta fifty to eighty feet high.
In the afternoon we had a severe storm of
hail, and encamped at sunset on the first
New Fork. Within the space of a few miles,
the Wind mountains supply a number of tri-
butaries to Green river, which are called the
New Forks. Near our camp were tv/o re-
markable isolated hills, one of them suffi-
ciently large to merit the name of mountain.
They are called the Two Buttes. and will
serve to identify the place of our encamp-
ment, which the observations of the evening
placed in longitude 109" 58' 11", and lati-
tude 42° 42' 46". On the right bank of the
stream, opposite to the large hill, the strata
which are displayed consist of decompoping
granite, which supplies the brown sand of
which •*'e face oi the country is composed
to a cotiaiderable depth.

August 10. — The air at sunrise is clear
and pure, and the morning extremely cold,
but beautiful. A lofty snow peak of the
mountain is glittering in the first rays of the
sun, which has not yet reached us. The
long mountain wall to the east, rising two
thousand feet abruptly from the plain, behind
which we see the peaks, is still dark, and
cuts clear against the glowing sky. A fog,
just risen from the river, lies along the base
of the mounta i. A little before sunrise, the
thermometer was at 36", and at sunrise 33<».
Water froze lai>t night, and fires are very
comfortable. The scenery becomes hourly
more interesting and grand, and the view
raero is truly magnificent; but, indeed, it
ueeds something to repay the long prairie
journey of a. thousand miles. The sun has
just shot above the wall, and makes a magic-
al change. The whole valley is gi< wing and
bright, and all the mountain peaks are gleam-
ing like silver. Though these snow moun-
tams are not the Alps, they have their own
character of grandeur and magnificence, and
will doubtless find pens and pencils to do
them justice. In the scene before us, we
feel how much wood improves a view. The
pines on the mountain seemed to give it much
additional beauty. I was agreeably disap-
pointed in the character of the streams on
this Bide Q<"ihe ridge. Instead of the creeks,
which dwcription had led me to expect, I

CAPT FPEMONTO iNAKKATiVE.

[184'J.

' 1842

find bold, broad streams, with throe or four
feet water, and a rapid current. Tho fork
on which we tiro encamped is upwards of a
hundred feet wide, timbered with groves f)r
thickets of the low willow. Wo were now
approaching the loftiest part of tho Wind
river chain ; and I left the valley a few miles
from our encampment, intending to penetrufi'
the mountains as far as possible with the
whole party. Wo were soon involved in
very broken ground, among long ridges cover-
ed with fragments of granite. Winding our
way up a long ravine, we came unexpected-
ly in view of a most beautiful lake, set like
a gem in tho mountains. The sheet of wa-
ter lay transversely across the direction we
had been pursuing ; and, descending tiie
steep, rocky ridge, where it was ntccssary to
lead our horses, we followed its banks to the
southern extremity. Here a view cf the ut-
most magnificenc3 and grandeur burst upon
our eyes. With nothing between us and
their feet to lesson the effect of the whole
height, a grand bed of snow-cappeti moun-
tains rose before us, pile upon pile, glowing
in the bright light of an August day. Im-
tsediately below them lay the lake, between
two ridges, covered with dark pines, which
swept down from the main chain to the Hpot
where we stood. Here, where the lake glit-
tered in the open sunlight, its banks of yellow
sand and the light foliage of aspen groves
contrasted well w'th the gloomy pines.
" Never bi . re," said Mr. Preuss, " in this
country or in Europe, have I seen such mag-
nificent, ^rand rocks." I was so much
pleased with the beauty of the place, that I
determined to make the main camp here,
where our animals would find good pastur-
age, and explore the mountains with a s' .all
party of men. Proceeding a little further,
we came suddenly upon the outlet of the
lake, where it found its way through a narrow
passage between low hills. Dark pines,
which overhung the stream, and masses of
rock, where the water foamed along, gave it
much romantic beauty. Where we crossed,
which was immediately at the outlet, it is two
hundred and fifty feet wide, and so deep thit
with difficulty we were able to ford it. L .
bed was an accumulation of rocks, boulders,
and broad slabs, and large angular fragments,
among which the animpls fell repeatedly.

The current was very swift, and the water
cold, and oi a crystal purity. In crossing
this stream, I met with a great misfortune
in having my barometer broken. It was the
only one. A great part of the interest of
the journey for me was in the exploration of
these mountains, of which so much had
been said that was doubtful and contradict-
ory ; and now their snowy peaks rose ma-
jestically before me, and tho only means of
giving them authentically to science, the

1842.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

rco or four
The fork
wards of a
I {proves or
I wore now

tlio Wind
a few milps
penetrnti'
e with the
involved in
idges cover-
y^indinjj our
jnexpertpd-
ke, set like
fleet of wa-
irecfion we
ending tao
itccssary to
lanks to the
V cf the Ht-
burst upon
sen us and
■ the whole
jpeu moun-
le, glowing

day. Inn-
te, between
ines, which
to the spot
iG lake glU-
C8 of yellow
pen groves
omy pines.
IS, " in this
I such mag-
9 so much
ilace, that I
camp here,
ood pastur-
trith a B .all
;tle further,
^tlct of the
ffh a narrow
lark pines,

masses of
)ng, gave it
we crossed,
let, it is two
30 deep that
brd it. Ii.
:s, boulders,
r fragments,
peatedly.
id the water
In crossing

misfortune

It was the
interest of
ploration of

much had
1 contrsdict-
:s rose ma*
y means of
icience, the

object of my anxious solicitude by night and
day, was destroyed. We had brouglit this
barometer in safety a thousand miles, and
broke it almost among the snow of the
luountaine. The loss was felt by the whole
camp — ctil had seen iny anxiety, and aided
iiu; in preserving it. The height of these
mountains, considered by the Tiunters and
tnuiorH the highest in the whole range, had
I (?on a theme of constant discussion among
tlii'in ; and all had looked forward with plea-
biiro to the moment when the instrument,
which thoy believed to be true as the sun,
^houlu stand upon the summits, and decide
their disputes. Their grief was only inferior
lo my own.

The lake is about three miles long, and of
very irregular width, and apparently great
(lopth, ana is the head water of the third New
Fork, a tributary to Green river, the Colo-
rado of the west. In the narrative, I have
'Allied it Mountain lake. I encamped on the
north side, about three hundred and fifty

ir<ls from the outlet. This was the most
•' rn point at which I obtained astro-
.ui.iical observations, by which this place,
called Bernier's encampment, is made in
110'^ 08' 03" west longitude from Greenwich,
and latitude 43" 49' 49". The mountain
(loaks, as laid down, were fixed by bearings
t rom this and other astronomical points. We
had no other compass than the small ones
used in sketching the country ; but from an
azimuth, in which one of them was used, the
variation of the compass is 18° east. The
correction made in our field work by the as-
tronomical observations indicates that this
is a very correct observation.

As soon as the camp was formed, I set
about endeavoring to repair my barometer.
As I have already said, this was a standard
cistern Kiromefer, of Troughton's con-
Ktruc.tio' '^'.e glass cistern had been
broken ai i.it'vay; but as the instrument
had bee; > •■( ,.i' proper position, no air had
found its way i » Uie tube, the end of which
had always remaiii..J covered. I had with
ine a number of vials of tolerably thick glass,
some of which were of the same diameter
as the cistern, and I sppTit the day in slowly
working on these, endeavoring to. cut them
of the requisite length ; but, as my instru-
ment was a very rough file, I invariably
broke them. A groove was cut in one of the
trees, where the barometer was placed uu-
rin^ il.f night, to be out of the way of any
pos. ic 'fanger, and in the morning I com-
menccii <,gai).. Among the powder horns
in the carnp, I found one which was very
transparent, so that its contents could be
almost as plainly seen as through glass.
This I boiled and stretched on a piece of
wood to the recj^uisite diameter and scraped

it very thin, in order to increase to the ut*
most its transparency. I then secured it
firmly in its place on the instrument, with
strong glue made from a buffalo, and filled it
with mercury, properly heated. A piece of
skin, which had covered one of the vialr,
furnished a good pocket, which was well se-
cured with strong thread and glue, and then
the brass covtr wa^ screwed to its pinro.
The instrument was left some time to dry ;
and when I reversed it, a few hours aftor." I
had the saiisfaction to find it in perfect ordor;
its indications being about the same as on
the other side of the lake before it had been
broken. Our success in this little incident
diffused pleasure throughout the camp ; and
we immediately set about onr preparation.?
for ascending the mountains.

As will be seen on reference to a map, on
this short mountain chain are the head waters
cf four great rivers of the continent; namely,
the Colorado, Columbia, Missouri, and Platte
rivers. It had been my design, after having
ascended the mountains, to continue our route
on the western side of the range, and cross-
ing through a pass at the nortnwestern end
of the chain, about thirty miles from our
present camp, return alone the eastern slope,
across the heads of the Yellowstone river,
and join on the line to our station of August
7, immediately at the foot of the ridge. In
this way, I should be enabled to include the
whole chain, and its numerous waters, in my
survey; but various considerations induced
me, very reluctantly, to abandon this plan.

I was desirous to keep strictly -.vithin the
scope of my instructions ; and it would have
required ten or fifteen additional days for the
accomplishment of this object ; our animaJs
had become very much worn out with the
length of the ioi'rney ; game was very scarce ;
and, though it uues not appear in the course
of the narrative (as I have avoided dwelling
upon trifling incidents not connected with the
objects of tlie expedition), the spirits of the
men had been much exhausted by the hard-
ships and privations to which they had been
subjected. Our provisions had wellnigh all
disappeared. Bread had been long out of the
question ; and of all our stock, w^e had re-
maining two or three pounds of coffee, aud a
smai? quantity of maccaroni, which had been
husbanded with great care for the mountain
expedition we were about to undertake. Our
daily meal consisted of dry bufialo meat,
cooked in tallow ; and, as we h«ui not dried
this with Indian skill, part of it was spoiled ;
and what remained of good, was as hard as
wood, having much the taste and appearance
of so many piecep of bark. Even jf thii,
our stock was r!>(iidly diminishing in a camp
which was capable of consumingtwo bufi&loe*
in every twenty-four hours. These *niBrmt*

■^M

m
- m

CAPT. FRMiMON T'S NARRATIVE.

[1842.

had entirely disappeared ; and it waH not |)ro-
bablo that we should fall in with them a<rain
until wc returned to the Sweet Water.

Our arianpfcmenta for the ascent wore
rapidly comuicted. We were in a lioHtiie
country, which rendered tlie yreatesi vi},n-
lance and circumspection necessary. The
pass at the north end of the mountain wa.'<
generally infested by Blackfeet ; and imme-
diately opposite was one of their forts, on the
vil^c of a little thicket, two or three hundred
leot from our encampment. We were posted
in a grove of beecn, on the margin of the
lake, and a few hundred feet long, with a nar-
row prairillon on the inner side, bordered by
the rocky ridge. In the upper end of this
grove we cleared a circular space about forty
feet in diameter, and, with trie felled timber
and interwoven branches, surrounded it with
a breastwork five feet in height. ' rap was
left for a gate on the inner side, by :'• 'i»''"»
animals were to be driven in and f
while the men slept around the little .-
It was half hidden by the foliage ; and, gar-
risoned by twelve resolute men, would have
set at defiance any band of savages which
might chance to discover them in the inter-
val of our absence. Fifteen of the best
mules, with fourteen men, were selected for
the mountain party. Our provisions consist-
ed of dried meat for two days, with our little
stock of cofiee and some maccaroni. In ad-
dition to the barometer and a thermometer, I
took with me a sextant and spy-glass, and
we had of course our compasses. In charge
of the camp I left Bernier, one of my most
trustworthy men, who possessed the most
determined courage.

August 12. — Early in the morning we left
the camp, fifteen in number, well armed, of
conrse, and mounted on our best mules. A
pack animal carried our provisions, with a
coffee pot and kettle, and three or four tin
cups. Eveiy man had a blanket strapped
over his saddle, to serve for his bed, and the
instruments were carried by turns on their
backs. We entered directly on rough and
rocky ground ; and, just after crossing the
ridge, had the good fortune to shoot an ante-
lope. We heard the roar, and had a glimpse
of a waterfall as we rode along ; and, cross-
ing in our way two fine streams, tributary to
the Colorado, in about two hours' ride we
reached the top of the first row or range of
the mountains. Here, again, a view of the
most romantic beauty met our eyes. It
seemed as if, from the vast expanse of unin-
teresting prairie we had passed over. Nature
had collected all her beauties together in one
chosen place. We were overlooking a deep
valley, which was entirely occupied by three
lakes, and from the brink the surrounding
ridges rose precipitously five hundred and a
thousand feet, covered with the dark green of

tlio balsam pine, relieved on the border of the
lake with the light foliage of the aspen.
They all communicated with each other *, and
the green of the waters, common to mountain
lakes of great depth, showed that it would bt'
impoHsible to cross them. The surprise
manifested by our guides when these impas-
sable obstacles suddenly barred our progress
proved that they were among the hidden
treasures of the place, unknown even to tlio
wandering trappers of the region. Descoiid-
ing the hill, we proceeded to make our way
along the margin to the southern extromity.
A narrow strip of angular fragments of rock
sometimes affi)rded a rough pathway for om
mules, but generally we rode along tne shelv-
ing side, occasionally scrambling up, ac u
considerable risk of tumbling back into the
lake.

The elope was frequently 60o ; the pinet*
grew densely together, and the ground wa.^
covered with the branches '^rJ trunks ol
trees. The air was fragrant with the odor
of the pines; and I realized this delightfu.
morning the pleasure of breathing that.
mountain air which makes a constant theint)
of the huntet's praise, and which now inndi^
us feel as if we had all been drinking some ex-
hilarating gas. The depths of this unex-
plored forest were a place to delight the heart
of a botanist. There was a rich undergrowth
of plants, and numerous gay-cclored nowers
in brilliant bloom. We reached the outlet at
length, where some freshly barked willowK
that lay in the water showed that beaver had
been recently at work. There were some
small brown squirrels jumping about in the
pines, and a couple of large mallard duck.s
swimming about in the Llream.

The hills on this southern end were low,
and the lake looked like a mimic sea, as the
waves broke on the sandy beach in the force
of a strong breeze. There was a pretty open
spot, with line grass for our mules; and
we made our noon halt on the beach, under
the shade of some large hemlocks. We re-
sumed our journey after a halt of about an
hour, making our way up the ridge on the
western side of the lake. In search of
smoother ground, we rode a little inland ;
and, passing through groves of aspen, soon
found ourselves again among the pines.
Emerging from these, we strucK the summit
of the ridge above the upper end of the lake.

We had reached a very elevated point ;
and in the valley below, and among the hills,
were a number of lakes at difierent levels ;
some two or three hundred feet above oth-
ers, with which §iey communicated by foam-
ing torrents. Even to our great height, the
roar of the cataracts came up, and we could
see them leaping down in line- of snowy
foam. From this scene of busy waters, we
turned abruptly into the stillness of a foreat.

1842.

[1842.

nrder of the;
the aspen,
other ; and

mountain
it would b('
IP Hurprisi'
leso iinptts-
ur proffreKs
the hidden
even to thi^

Di'scoikI-
ke our way
extrt'inity.
nts of rock
vay for om
g the she) V-

g wp. ftc »
:k into tlic

; the pines
p'ound was

trunks ol
<.h the odor

delight! II :
thing that,
itant theme

now mndo
ig some ex-
thia unex-
it the heart
ndergrowth
red flowers
the outlet at
:ed willows
beaver had
were some
)out in the
Hard ducks

1 were low,
sea, as the
in the force
pretty open
lules ; and
iach, under
B. We re- <>
f about an
dge on the

search of
tie inland ;
kspen, soon
the pines,
the summit
of the lake,
ited point;
ig the hills,
ent levels ;
above oth- '''^
id by foam-
height, the
d we could

of snowy
waters, we
of a foreat.

1812.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

where we rode among the op*>n bolls of the
pines, over a lawn of verdant grass, having
(Strikingly the air of cultivated grounds.
This led us, after a time, among masses of
rock which had no vegetable earth but in
hollows and crevices, though still the pine
forest continued. Toward evening, we
rcficlied a defile, or r er a hole in the
inmmtains, entirely shut in by dark pine-
covered rocks.

A small stream, with a scarcely percepti-
olo current, flowed through a level bottom
i)f perhaps eighty yards width, where the
jrriiss was saturated with water. Into this
tlio mules were turned, and were neither
liohblcd nor picketed during the night, as the
line pasturage took away all temptation to
ptray ; and we made our bivouac in the
pines. The surrounding masses were all
of granite. While supper was being pre-
pared, I set out on an excursion in the
neighborhood, accompanied by one of my
iiion. We wandered about among the crags
and ravines until dark, richly repaid for our
walk by a fine collection of plants, many of
them in full bloom. Ascending a peak to
find the place of our camp, we saw that the
little defile in which we lay, communicated
with the long green valley of some stream,
which, here locked up in the mountains, far
nway to the south, found its way in a dense
forest to the plains.

Looking along its upward course, it seem-
ed to conduct, by a smooth gradual slope,
directly toward the peak, which, from long
consultation as we approached the mountain,
we had decided to oe the highest of the
range. Pleased with the discovery of so fine
a road for the next day, we hastened down to
the camp where "we arrived just in time for
supper. Our table service was rather scant ;
and we held the meat in our hands, and clean
rocks made good plates, on which we spread
our maccaroni. Amonfj nil the eirange pla-
ces en niiicli we had occasion to encamp
during our long journey, none have left so
vivid an imf ression on my mind as the camp
of this evening. The disorder of the masses
which surrounded us ; the little hole through
which we saw the stars over head ; the dark
pines where we slept ; and the rocks lit up
with the glow of our firei, made a night
nicture of very wild beaut}'.

August 13. — The morning was bright and
pleasant, just cool enough to make exercise
agreeable, and we soon entered the defile I
had seen the preceding day. It was smooth-
ly carpeted with a soft grass, and scattered
over with groups of flowers, of which yellow
was the predominant color. Sometimes we
were forced, by an occasional difficult pass,
to pick our way on a narrow ledge along the
aide of the defile, and the mules were fre-
quently on their knees ; but these obstruc-

tions were rare, and we journoyod on in the
sweet morning air, delighted at our good for-
tune in having found such a beautiful en-
trance to the mountains. This road contin-
ued for about three miles, when we suddenly
reached its termination in one of tlie grand
views which, at every turn, meet the travel-
ler in this magnificent region. Here the de-
file up which we had travelled opened out
into a small lawn, where, in a little lake, the
stream had its source.

There were some fine asters in bloom, but
all the flowering plants appeared to seek the
shelter of the rocks, and to be of lower
growth than below, as if they loved the
warmth of the soil, and kept out of the way
of the winds. Immediately at our feet a
precipitous descent led to a confusion of de-
files, and before us rose the mountains as
we have represented them in the annexed
view. It is not by the splendor of far-off
views, which have lent such a glory to the
Alps, that these impress the mind ; but by a
gigantic disorder of enormous masses, and a
savage sublimity of naked rock, in wonder-
ful contrast with innumerable green spots
of a rich floral beauty, shut up in their stern
recesses. Their wildness seems well suited
to the character of the people who inhabit
the country.

I determined to leave our animals here,
and make the rest of our way on foot. The
peak appeared so near, that there was no
doubt of our returning before night ; and a
few men were left in charge of the mules,
with our provisions and blankets. We took
with us nothing but our arms and instru-
ments, and, as the day had become warm,
the greater part left our coats. Having
made an early dinner, we started, again.
We wnre soon involved in the most ragged
precipices, nearing the central chain very
slowly, and rising but little. The first ridge
hid a succession of others ; and when, with
great fatigue and difiiculty, we had climbed
up five hundred feet, it was but to make an
equal descent on the other side ; all these in-
tervening places were filled with small deep
lakes, which met the eye in every direction,
descending from one level to another, some-
times under bridges formed by huge frag-
ments of granite, beneath which was heara
the roar of the wafer. These constantly ob-
structed our path, forcing us to make long
ditours; frequently obliged to retrace our
steps, and frequently falling among the rocks.
Maxwell was precipitated towara the face
of a precipice, and saved himself from going
over by throwing himself flat on the ground.
We clambered on, always expecting, with
every ridge that we crossed, to reach the foot
of the peaks, and always disappointed, until
about four o'clock, when, pretty well worn
out, we reached the shore jf a little lake in

■.'■'•.11

m
II

CAPT. FRKMONT'S NARRATIVK.

[1849.

which was a rocky isliind. We reimtiruul
here a short lime to rest, and cuntiniied nn
around the lake, which had In 8umc plucen
a beach of white sand, and in otiiera vvum
bound with rock«, over wliich the way wiis
difficult and dangerous, ad the water irom
innumerable springs made them very slip-
pery.

By the time wo had reached the further
side of the lake, wo found ourselves all ex-
ceedingly fatigued, and, much to the satis-
faction of the whole party, we encamped.
The 8^M)t we had chosen was a broad flat
rock, m some measure protected from the
winds by tlie surrounding crags, and the
trunks of fallen pines anbrdeu us brij^ht
fires. Near by was a foaming torrent, which
tumbled into the little lake about one hun-
dred and fifty feet below us, and which, by
way of distinction, we have called Island
lake. We had reached the upper limit of
the piney region ; as, above this point, no
tree was to be seen, and patches of snow lay
everywhere around us on the cold sides of
the rocks. The flora of the region we had
traversed since leaving our mules was ex-
tremely rich, and, among the characteristic
plants, the scarlet flowers of the dodecatheon
denlatum everywhere met the eye in great
abundance. A small g-een ravine, on the
edge of which we were encamped, was filled
with a profusion of alpine plants in brilliant
bloom. From barometrical observations,
made during our three days' sojourn at this
place, its elevation above the Gulf of Mexico
13 10,000 feet. During the day, we had 8"-n
no sign of animal life ; but among the rocks
here, we heard what was supposed to be the
bleat of a young goat, whicn we searched
for with hungry activity, and found to pro-
ceed from a small animal of a grey color,
with short ears and no tail — probably the
Siberian squirrel. We saw a considerable
number of them, and, with the exception of
a small bird like a sparrow, it is the only
inhabitant of this elevated part of the moun-
tains. On our return, we saw, below this
lake, large flocks of the mountain goat. We
had nothing to eat to-night. Lajeunesse,
with several others, took their guns, and
tallied out in search of a goat ; but returned
unsuccessful. At sunset, the barometer
stood at 20.52:2 ; the attached thermometer
60". Here we had the misfortune to break
our thermometer, having now only that at-
tached to the barometer. I was taken ill
shortly after we had encamped, and continu-
ed so until late in the night, with violent
headache and vomiting. This was probably
caused by the excessive fatigue I had under-
gone, and want of food, and perhaps, also,
u some measure, by the rarity of the air.
The night was cold, as a violent gale from
the north had sprung up at sunset, which

entirely blew away tho heat of the firoa.
The cold, and our granite bedn, had not been
favorablo to sloop, and we wore glad to see
tho face >>t the sun in the morning. Not be-
ing delayed by any preparation for break-
fast, we Kct out immediately.

On every side as we atlvanced was heard
the roar ot waters, and of a torrent, which
we followed up a short distance, until it ex-
panded into a lake about one mile in length.
On the northern side of the lake was a bank
of ice, or rather of snow covered with a
crust of ice. Carson had been our guide
into the mountains, and, agreeably to his
advice, we led this little valley, and took to
the ridges again ; which we found extremely
broken, and where we were again involved
among precipices. Here were ice fields ;
among which we were all dispersed, seeking
each the best path to ascend tho peak. Mr.
PreuHS attempted to walk along the up|)er
edge of one of these fields, which sloped
away at an angle of about twenty degrees ,
but his feet slipped from under him, and he
went plunging down the plane. A few
hundred feot below, at the bottom, were
some fragments of sharp rock, on which lie
landed ; and though he turned a couple of
somersets, fortunately received no injury be-
yond a few bruises. Two of the men, Cle-
ment Lambert and Descoteaux, had been
taken ill, and lay down on the rocks a short
distance below ; and at this point I was at-
tacked with headache and giddiness, accom-
panied by vomiting, as on the day before.
Finding myself unable to proceed, I sent the
barometer over to Mr. Preuss, who was in a
gap two or three hundred yards distant, de-
siring him to reach the peak, if possible, and
take an observation there. He found him-
self unable to proceed further in that direc-
tion, and took an observation, where the ba-
rometer stood at 19.401 ; attached thermo-
meter 60o, in the gap. Carson, who had
gone over to him, succeeded in reaching one
of the snowy summits of the main ridge,
whence he saw the peak towards which all
our efibrts had been directed, towering eight
or ten hundred feet into the air above him.
In the meantime, finding myself grow rather
worse than better, and doubtful how far my
strength would carry me, I sent Basil La-
jeunesse, with four men, back to the place
where the mules had been left.

We were now better acquainted with the
topography of the country, and I directed
him to bring back with him, if it were in
any way possible, four or five mules, with
provisions and blankets. With mc were
Maxwell and Ayer; and after we had re-
mained nearly an hour on the rock, it be-
came so unpleasantly cold, though tiie day
was bright, that we set out on our return to
the camp, at which we all arrived safely,

1842.]

CAFt. tTlEMONT'S NARRATIVE.

atntf^aling in one ailer the other. I con>
tinned ill durinff the afternoon, but became
bettor towards sundown, when my recovery
was completed by the appearance of DaHil
and four men, all mounted. The men who
had ^nne with him iiad been too much fa-
lijrued to return, and wore relieved by those
ill ch»rf;e of the horses; but in his powers
of emiiirance Basil resembled more a moun-
tuiii fionl than a man. They brought blan-
krts and provisions, and we enjoyecrwell our
drii'd meat and a cup of good cofleo. We
ml led ourselves up in our blankets, and,
with our feet turned to a blazing tire, slept
Hoiuully until morning.

Aiifrust Ifi. — It had been supposed that we
had finished with the mountams; and the
evening before, it had been arranged that
Carson should set out at daylight, and re-
turn to breakfast at the Camp of the Mules,
taking with him all but four or five men,
who wore to stay with me and bring back
the mules and instruments. Accordingly,
at the break of day they set out. With Mr.
Preuss and myself remained Basil Lajeu-
nesse, Clement Lambert, Janissc, and Desco-
teaux. When we had secured strength for
the day by a hearty breakfast, we covered
what remained, which was enough for one
meal, with rocks, in order that il might be
safe from any marauding bird ; and, saddling
our mules, turned our faces once more to-
wards the peaks. This time we determined
to proceed quietly and cautiously, deliber-
ately resolved to accomplish our object if it
were within the compass of human means.
We were of opinion that a long defile which
lay to the left of yesterday's route would
lead us to the foot of the main peak. Our
mules had been refreshed by the fine grass
in the little ravine at the Island camp, and
we intended to ride up the defile as far as
possible, in order to husband our strength
for the main ascent. Though this was a
fine passage, still it was a defile of the most
rugged mountains known, and we had many
a rough and steep slippejy place to cross
iiefore reaching the end. In this place the
sun rarely shone; snow lay along the border
of the small stream which flowed through it,
and occasional icy passages made the foot-
ing of the mules very insecure, and the
rocks and ground were moist with the trick-
ling waters in this spring of mighty rivers.
We soon had the satisfaction to hnd our-
selves riding along the huge wall which
forms the central summits of the chain.
There at last il rose by our sides, a nearly
perpendicular wall of granite, terminating
2,000 to 3,000 feet above our heads in a ser-
rated line of broken, jagged cones. We
rode on until we came almost immediately
below the main peak, which I denominated
the Snow peak, as it exhibited more snow

to the eye than any of the neighlraring sum*
mits. Here were three small lakes of a
green color, each of perhaps a tiiuiisand
vards in diameter, and apparently very deep.
I'hcHO lay in a kind of chasm ; and, accord*
ing to the barometer, wo iiiid attained but a
few hundred fuct alwvo the Island lake. 'I'ho
barometer here stood at 20.460, attached
thermometer 70*'.

We managed to got our mules up to a
little bench about a iiundrcd leot above the
lakes, where there was a patch of good
grass, and turned them loose to graze. L)u*
ring our rough ride to this place, tlioy had
exhibited a wonderful surefootednosri. Parts
of tlie defile were filled with angular, sharp
fragments of rock, three or four and eight or
ten feet cube ; and among these they had
worked their way, leaping from one narrow
point to another, rarely making a false stop,
and giving us no occasion to dismount.
Having divested ourselves of every unneces-
sary encumbrance, wo commenced the as-
cent. This time, like experienced travellers,
we did not press ourselves, but climbed
leisurely, sitting dowi, so soon as we found
breath beginning to fail. At intervals we
reached places where a number of springs
gushed from the rocks, and about 1,800 feet
above the lakes came to the snow line.
From this point our progress was uninter-
rupted climbing. Hitherto I had worn a
pair of thick moccasins, with soles of par-
Jliehe ; but here I put on a light thin pair,
which I had brought for the purpose, as now
the use of our toes became necessary to a
further advance. I availed myself of a sort
of conib of the mountain, which stood against
the wall like a buttress, and which the wind
and the solar radiation, joined to the steep-
ness of the smooth rock, had kept almost en-
tirely free from enow. Up this I made m;
way rapidly. Our cautious method of ai
vancing in the outset had spared my strength ;
and, with the exception of a slight disposi-
tion to headache, I felt no remains of yester-
day's illness. In a few minutes we reached
a point where the buttress was overhanging,
and there was no other way of surmounting
the difficulty than by passing around one
side of it, which was the face of a vertical
precipice of several hundred feet.

Putting hands and feet in the crevices be-
tw: ~n the blocks, I succeeded in getting
over .t, and, when I reached the top, found
my companions in a small valley below.
Descendmg to them, we continued climbiig,
and in a short time reached the crest. I
sprang upon the summit, and another step
woula have precipitated me into an immense
snow field five hundred feet below. To the
edge of this field was a sheer icy precipice ;
and then, with a gradual fall, the field sloped
off for about a mile, until it struck the foot

'.^]

V .<■•

CAI»T. FRKMONT'8 NARRATIVE.

[1849

of another Idwct ridpe. I Btood on a niirrow
croHt, ntmnt llirro feet in width, willi on in-
clination (il al)r.iit *J0"' N. 61° K. Ah noon
a» I liiul i;riiti(icd tho fifHt Icclinffii of curi-
(wity, I (It'MCcndcd, and cacli man aiicnndod
in hiH turn ; for I would only allow onu at a
timo to mount tho undtable and precnriouH
rtlab, which it neemcd a breath would hurl
into tilt' iibvHH below. Wo mounted tho luv*
romotor iu tho Know of tho summit, and, fix-
ini; II riinrod in a crevico, unfurled tho na-
lioiiiit tla^r to wave iu tho breexo whore never
rtanr wavod before. During our morning's
u.sciMit, wo liad met no sign of animal life,
exce|)t tho Bmall sparrow-like bird already
inentioneil. A stillnesa tho most profound
and a terrible solitude forced themselves con-
ntantly en tho mind as the groat features of
the place. Here, on the summit, where the
.ttillnesH was absolute, unbroken by any
Bound, and the solitude complete, we thought
ourselves beyond tho region of animated life ;
but while wc were sitting ont ho rock, a soli-
tary bee (bromuf, the humble bee) came
winging his flight from the eastern valley,
and lit on the knee of one of the men.

It was a strange place, the icy rock and
the highest peak of the Rocky mountains,
tor a lover of warm sunshine and flowers ,
and we pleased ourselves with the idea that
he was the first of his species to cross tho
mountain barrier — a solitary pioneer to fore-
tell the advance of civilisation. I believe
that a moment's thought would have made
us let him continue bis way unharmed ; but
we carried out the law of this country, where
all animated nature seems at war ; and, seiz-
ing him immediately, put him in at least a
fit place — in the leaves of a large book,
among the flowers we had collected on our
way. ~ The barometer stood at 18.293, the
attached thermometer at 44° ; giving for the
elevation of this summit 13,670 feet above
the Gulf of Mexico, which may be called the
highest flight of the bee. It is certainly the
highest known flight of that insect. From
the description given by Mackenzie of the
mountains where he crossed them, with that
of a French officer still farther to the north,
and Colonel Long's measurements to the
south, joined to the opinion of the oldest tra-
ders of the country, it is presumed that this
is the highest peak of the Rocky mountains.
The day was sunny and bright, but a slight
shining mist hung over the lower plains,
which interfered with our view of the sur-
rounding country. On one side we over-
looked innumerable lakes and streams, the
spring of the Colorado of the Gulf of Cali-
fornia ; and on the other was the Wind river
valley, where were the heads of the Yellow-
itone branch of the Missouri; far to the
north, we just could discover the snowy
heads of the Trots Teions, where were the

sources of the Missouri and Columbia rivors ;
and at the nouthern extremity of tho ridgr,
tho peaks wore plainly visible, ainoiii; which
W(>re some of tho springs of thu N<*lirurikn or
I'lalto river. Around im, tho wliolo Hcenn
had one main striking feature, which WH4
that of terrible convulsion. Parallel to itH
length, tho ridge was split into chuHmft and
fiMsurcs ; lietween which rose the thin lofty
walls, terminated with sicndur minnrcts and
columns. According to tho barotnuter, tho
little crest of tho wall on whicii wo stood
was three thousand five hundred and seventy
feet above that place, and two thousand
seven hundred and eighty above the little
lakes at tho bottom, immediately at our feet.
Our camp at the Two Hills (an astronomical
station) oore south 3° east, which, with a
bearing afterward obtained from a fixed po-
sition, enabled us to locate the peak. The
bearing of the 7Vot» Teions was north fiO®
Wfst, and the direction of the central ridge
of the Wind river mountains south 39° east.
The summit rock was gneiss, succeeded by
sienitic gneiss. Sienite and feldspar suo-
ceeded in our descent to the snow line^
where we found a feldspathic granite. I
had remarked that the noise produced by the
explosion of our pistols had the usual degree
of loudness, but was not in the least pro>
longed, expiring almost instantaneously.
Having now mode what observations our
means aiibrded, we proceeded to descend.
We had accomplished an object of laudable
ambition, and beyond the strict order of our
instructions. We had climbed the loftiest
peak of the Rocky mountains, and looked
aown upon the snow a thousand feet below,
and, standing where never human foot had
stood before, felt the exultation of first ex-

[dorers. It was about 2 o'clock when we
efl the summit ; and when we reached the
bottom, the sun had already sunk behind the
wall, and the day was drawing to a close.
It would have been pleasant to have lingered
here and on tho summit longer ; but we hur*
ried away as rapidly as the ground would
permit, for it was an object to regain our
party as soon as possible, not knowing what
accident the next hour might bring forth.

We reached our deposit of provisions at
nightfall. Here was not the inn which
awaits the tired traveller on his return from
Mont Blanc, or the orange groves of South
America, with their refreshing juices and soft
fragrant air ; but we found our little cache of
dried meat and coflee undisturbed. Though
the moon was bright, the road was full of

Erecipices, and the fatigue of the day had
een great. We therefore abandoned the
idea of rejoining our friends, and lay down on
the rock, and, in spite of the cold, slept
soundly.
August 16. — We left our encampment

1849.]

CAPT. PREMONT'S NARRATIVK.

rivoin;

ridge,
which
iitkaor

Hccnn

1 1 WAH

to iu

with the daylight. Wo Haw on our way
large Hocka of the mniiiitain (foat lo<)kin((
down on ua from the clitlM. At the crack <•(
n ride, they would bound ofl'iimonfftho rockn,
and in a f»w minutCH make tlu-ir ap|M>aranco
on romo lofty peak, Romu hundred or a thou-
sand I'cut above. It in iieodloHH to attempt
auy further deiicription of the country ; thu
|N)rtion over which we travelled tliin morniii);
wan rou|{h as imn|rination could picture it,
uiid to us Bceined cnuaily beautiful. A con-
cniirMo of lakes and rushint; waters, inoiin-
tains of rocks naked and destitute of vef^eta-
l)lt> earth, dells and ravineH of the inoHt
ox(|uiHite beauty, all kept green and frcttli by
t>ie great moisture in the air, and sown with
brilliant flowers, and everywhere thrown
around uU the glory of moat magnificent
iictineH : these constitute the features of the
place, and impress themselveH vividly on the
mind of the traveller. It was not until 1 1
o'clock that we reached the place where our
unimaJH had been left, when wo first attempt-
ed the mountains on foot. Near one of the
still burning tires we found a piece of meat,
which our friends had thrown away, and
which furnished us a mouthful— a very
scanty breakfast. We continued directly
on, and reached our camp on the mountain
lake at dusk. We found all well. Nothing
had occurred to interrupt the quiet since our
departure, and the tine grass and good cool
water had done much toj-e-establish our ani-
main. All heard with great delight the order
to turn our faces homeward ; and toward
sundown of the 17th, we encamped again at
the Two Buttes.

In the course of this ailernoon's march,
tlie barometer was broken past remedy. I
regretted it, as I was desirous to compare it
again with Dr. Engleman's barometers at St.
Iy>uiH, to which mine were referred ; but it
had done its part well, and my objects were
mainly fulfilled.

August 19. — We lell our camp on Little
Sandy river about 7 in the morning, and tra-
versed the same sandy, undulating country.
The air was filled with the turpentine scent
of the various artemisias, which are now in
bloom, and, numerous as they are, give much
gaiety to the land.xape of the plains. At
10 o'clock, wa stood exactly on the divide in
the pass, where the v agon road crosses, and,
descending immediately upon the Sweet
Water, halted to take a meridian observation
of the sun. The latitude was 42° 24' 32".

In the course of the afternoon we saw buf-
falo again and at our evening halt on the
Sweet Water the roasted ribs again made
their appearance around the tires ; and, with
them, good, humor, and laughter, and song,
were restored to the camp. Our coffee had
been expended, but we now made a kind of
tea from the roots of the wild cherry tree.

Av^uiit 93. — Yesterday evening wo reach-
ed our encampment at Rock lii(li<|)i>iid(>iirtf,
where I took some aHtronoiiiiriii nliHtTviitioiiH,
Here, nrtt unmindful of the cunloin of rnrly
travell*>rrt and explorers in our country, I en-
griived on thin rock of the Fur Wenl a wyin-
l)ol of the C'liriHtitin faith. Among the thickly
iiiscrilxMl iiaineH, I made on the liard grunitu
tlii^ iiiiproHHion of a large crows which I co-
vered with a black preparation of liidia rubber,
well calculated to rexiHt the inlliieiiceol wind
and rain, It ntandH amidst the iiaiiieH of
many who have long since found their way
to the grave, and for whom the huge rock is
a giant graveHtono.

One deorgp Weymouth was sent out to
Maine by the Karl of Southampton, !.«)rd
Arundel, and others ; and in the narrative of
their dincoveries, ho says : " The next day,
we ascended in our pinnace that part of the
river which lies more to the westward, carry-
ing with us a cross — a thing never omitted by
any Christian traveller — which wo erected
at the ultimate end of our route." This was
in the year l(iU5; and in 1842 I ol)eyed the
feeling of early travellers, and left the im-
pression of the cross deeply engraved on the
vast rock one thousand miles beyond the
Missigsippi, to which discoverers have given
the national name of Ruck Independence.

In obedience to my instructions to survey
the river Platte, if possible, I had d..erntine(i
to make an attempt at this place. The India
rubber boat was hlled with air, placed in the
water, and loaded with what was neceut<ary
for our ojwrations ; and I embarked with Mr.
Preuss and a party of men. When we had
dragged our boat for a mile or two over the
sands, I abandoned the impossible undertak-
ing, and waited for the arrival of the party,
when we packed up our boat and equipage
and at 9 o'clock were again moving along
on our land journey. We continued along
the valley on the right bt: : of the Sweet
Water, where the formation, as already de-
scribed, consists of a greyish micaceous sand-
stone, and tine-grained conglomerate, and
marl. We passed over a ridge which bor-
ders or constitutes the river hills of the
Platte, consisting of huge blocks, sixty or
eighty feet cube, of decomposing granite.
The cement whi. h united them was proba-
bly of easier decomposition, and has disap-
f eared and left them isolate, and separated
y small spaces. Numerous horns of the
mountain goat were lying among the rocks ;
and in the ravines were cedars, whotse trunks
were of extraordinary size. From this ridge
we descended to a small open plain at the
mouth of the Sweet Water, which rushed
with a rapid current into the Platte, here
flowing along in a broad, and appaJrently
deep stream, which 'jeemed, from its turbid
appearance, to be considerably swollen* I

, 4j

'^'' '-n

PAI'T. FRKMONTrf NAIUIATIVK.

[1843

*i'i

obtaiiD'il liiTP nonM>antmn(irniril olwprvalioiiM,
and til)* iirti>riiiHiii wni« M|M'Mt in ff*'*t\i\f( mir
boat rcitly lor imvitfatiiin Ihi* next day.

/li<tri/s/ 'Jt. — VVi< ufarfi'd bflon* Miinrim',
inUtndiii^ tn hrmMnnt at (iiMtt ImIhikI. I IihiI
dirrclfd ihc land party, in rliartr"" "1 H«'rnii'r,
to pniciM'd lo thin |tliic»>, wliert) they wi»rr to
rcmnin, Hlxmld tli<>y tiixl nu not«« to apprinu
tluMii ol our Imvinof pntiHiul. (ii tho evont of
rt'Ci'ivin^ this informal ion, thoy woro lo con-
tiniii' llifir roiito, paHHJnpf by cfirfain placeH
wliicli hud Ix'iMi d»'Hi(fnnt»'d. Mr. I'reiiM nc-
coinpiuiicd mo, and with iih wcrt) flvo of my
l»<'i<t tni'ii, viz : ('. liamlH'rt, Bnail I^ajcuncriHe,
lloiiori Ayot, Hcnoiat, and I)e8cotpau.\.
II»'ro n|i|M'iirod no urarcity of wator, and wp
tuoii on hoard, witli various iiiMtrtimtMitH and
l>iiL'ffB(ji', provisiona for ten or twelve days.
We paddled down the river rapidly, for our
little criilt wafl liffht as a duck on the water ;
and th<> Mun had been 8omo time riuen, when
we lioiird liofore uh a hollow roar, which we
.■<uppoHod to bo that of a fall, of which we
liad heard a vaflruo rumor, but whose exact
local it V no one liad been able to describe to
UH. VVu were approachinfi^ a ridffe, throui^h
wliicli the river passes by a place called
" caRon " (pronounced kanyon), a Spanish
word, sif^nitying a piece of artillery, the bar-
rel of a gun, or any kind of tube ; and which,
in this country, has been adopted to describe
the pansage of a river between perpendicular
rocks of great height, which freijuently ap-
proach each other so closely overhead as to
'orm a kind of tunnel over the stream, which
*'oams along below, half choked up by fallen
fragments. Between the mouth of the
Sweet Water and Goat island, there is pro-
bably a fall of 300 feet, and that was princi-
pally made in the cafSons before us ; as, with-
out them, the water was comparatively
smooth. As we neared the ridge, the river
made a sudden turn, and swept squarely down
against one of the walls of the canon with
a great velocity, and so bteep a descent, that
it Tiad, to the eye, the appearance of an in-
clined plane. When we launched into this,
the men jumped overboard, to check the ve-
locity of the boat, but were soon in water up
to their necks, and ou" boat ran on ; but we
succeeded in bringing her to a small point of
rocks on the right, at the mouth of the cailon.
Here was a kind of elevated sand beach, not
many yards square, backed by the rocks, and
around the point the river swept at a right
angle. Trunks of trees deposited on jutting
points 20 or 30 feet above, and other marks,
showed that the water here frequently rose
to a considerable height. The ridge was of
the same decomposing granite already men-
tioned, and the water haa worked the surface,
10 many places, into a wavy surface of ridges
and holes. We ascended the rocks to recon-

noitrn th«< grmind, nnd from the iiuminit thn
imiiM|{ii Hp|M'iir<*r mnny olmtrurtiuiiit, nnd hrokon
by H nuiiilM>r of itnuill fallM. Wn Naw no-
wlii>rt< H lull nnxwiTlhg to that wliich had
Imm'u domrilN'd to iih hh having 'JO or 'J/k Iri't
but Nlill (Mincliidod thiM to Ui th«* placi' in
qiu'Hiioii, aN, in thtt M«>aHon of HoodM, tho runli
of the rivor agninxt the wall would |)r<Mlui'o
a i;n>at rise, and the watnrN, retlectml Hr|iiur«'ly
olr, woulii (IcHctMiti through the paHnagn in a
nhect of foam, having evitry np|M>HraMC«> of a
large fall. Kighto«Mi years provioua to this
time, as I have Rub«pauently leurnod from
himHolf Mr. Fitz|>atricK, somewhort) above
on this river, hud embarked with a valuable
cargo of beaver. Unnrtjiiainted with the
stream, which he lM>lievod would conduct
him safely to the Missouri, he came unex*
pectedly into this caflon, where ho wu
wrecked, with the total loss of his furs. It
would have l)een a work of great time and
labor to pack our baggage across the ritfgw,
and I determined to run the cafion. We all
again embarked, and at tirat attempted to
check the way of the boat ; but the water
swept through with so much violence that
we narrowly escaped being swamped, and
were obliged to let her go in the full force of
the current, and trust to the skill of the boat*
men. The dangerous places in this caffon
were where huge rocks had fallen from above,
and hemmed in th« already narrow pass of
the river to an open space of three or four
L>nd five feet. These obstructions raised the
water considerably above, which was some«
times precipitated over in a fall ; and at other
places, where this dam was too high, rushed
through the contracted opening with tremen-
dous violence. Had our boat been made H
wood, in passing the narrows she would hav
been staved ; but her elasticity preserved her
unhurt from every shock, and she seemed
fairly to leap over the falls.

In this way we passed three cataracts in
succession, where, perhaps 100 feet of smooth
water intervened ; and, finally, %ith a shout
of pleasure at our success, issued from our
tunnel into the open day beyond. We were
so delighted with the performance of our
boat, and so confident in her powers, that we
would not have hesitated to leap a fail often
feet with her. We put to shore for break*
fast at some willows on the right bank, im«
mediately below the mouth of the caiion ; for
it was now 8 o'clock, and we had been work-
ing since daylight, and were all wet, fatigued,
and hungry. While the men were prepar-
ing breakfast, I went out to reconnoitre. The
view was rery limited. The course of the
river was smooth, so far as I could see ; on
both sides were broken hills ; and but a mile
or two below was another high ridge. Th^ '

11H4J

1849]

CAI»T. FIIKMONTM NAIUIATIVK.

lunk Kt tlio moiitli n( tho cnnoii wan mIiII tlic
decoiiij!'Miii^ i;riuiiii<, with Krciit qiuiiititiui
urinica, whi"li iiihiIo a vttry ^lilti'rinu; nuiuI.
Wii rtMMiibtirki'i! Mt !) oVIcmIc, hiiU hi about
' A'vnty iiiinuti'n roachotl ttut iiHxt cuAoii.
l^imliuK 1)11 a rocky Mliorn at iln coinmnice-
iiii'iit, wi! HMCi'iidiMl tliu riil(((< to rurotiiioitro.
l'nrta^ri> wKH out of tho iniuMtion. So far un
we ciitilil i«iH\ thu ja^tfuu rockH (Mjjiitud out
Iho coiirHO of tho CHiioti, on a wimlintf lixc
(if Hi'Vt'ii or oight iniloM. It whh aiinply a nar>
row, ilark cliaMin in iho rock; and huru tho
|it>r|M'iiin('ular facoa wuro iiiucli hifjfhcr than
III Iho prrviouH Dana, Immii^ at thia end twu
to thri'u huiidrcu, and furthor down, an wc
al'torwards aacertainod, five huiuirud I'vut in
vorticiil hei^fht. Our previous huccchh had
iniidu iirt iHild, and we detoriniiicd a^ain to
run tho caflon. Evcrylhin|{ waa Hccurud aH
tiniily iiH |M)i4Hiblo ; and having; divoi^tod uur-
Holvuri of Uio i^rreater part of our clolhini;^, wc
putihcd into thd stream. To save our cliro-
iioiiii'tt'r from accident, Mr. Preuaa took it,
and attoinpted to proceed alon{( tho ahoro on
tiio niaHHOH of rock, which in places wore
piled up oil ckher aide ; but, ailor ho had
walkoil about live minutes, everythiiif; like
tiliorc (linappearcd, and the vertical wall
came Hqiiurely down into the water. lie
therefure waited until wo came up. An
iiglv pass lay before us. We had mudo fuHt
to the stern of the boat a strong rope about
fit^y feet long ; and three of the men clam-
bered along among tho rocks, and with this
rope lot her down slowly through the pass.
In Kcveral places high rockt* lay scattered
about in the channel ; and in the narrows it
required all our strength and skill to avoid
staving the boat on tho sharp points. In one
of these, the boat proved a littlo tix) broad,
and stuck fast for an instant, while the water
flew over us ; fortunately, it was but (or an
instant, as our united strength lurced her
immediately tlirough. The water swept
overboard only a sextant and a pair of saddle-
bags. I caught the sextant as it passed by
me ; but the saddlebags became the prey of
the whirlpools. We reached the place where
Mr. Preusa was standing, took him on
board, and, with the aid of the boat, put tho
men with tho rope on the succeeding pile of
rocks. We found this passage much worse
thnri tlie previous one, and our position was
latliiT a bad one. To go back, was impos-
sible ; before us, the cataract was a sheet of
foam; and shut up in the chasm by the
rocks, which, in some places, seemed almost
to meet overhead, the roar of the water was
deafening. We pushed off again ; but, after
making a little distance, the force of the cur-
rent became too great fur the men on shore,
and two of them let go the rope. Lajeu-
nesse, the third man, hung on, and was jerk-
ed headforemost into the river from a rock

about twi'lvo feet high ; and down the iictt ahot
like an arrow, liuMiT following um in tliti rapi<l
i-urri'iit, and t'Xi'rting all hirt Htn-ngth to kocp
ill 1111(1 cliaiincl — hilt iiiud mily hi-imi occa-
MKiiially liki) a black niiut in the vvliiti< foam.
Ilovv lar wo wont, I do imt o.\ii(tly know;
but wo HUi'cocdoil ill liiriiiiig tlic bout iiitoiin
oddy below. "'(V^ />/"/," Hiiid llasi! I.ti-
jouiioHHu, as ho arrivoil iiniiiodiiitol) allot im.
" Jc cruis bim i/iio J\n nu^i iin dnni miti ."
lie had owed his lili> to liin nkill an ii Hwim-
iiior, and I dotormiiiod to tiiko him mid the
two otluTH on board, iiiid tru.'-t to Hkill aiul
fortuno to roach tho othoroiul in Huloty. W'v
placed ournolvoM on our knooH, w ilh the Hluirt
paddloH ill our liandri, tlu: imiht skilful boat-
man boitig at the Imjvv ; uiid again we com-
moiicod our rapid do.-cciit. We cloarod
rook after rock, and .shot puxt lull aftor fall,
our littlo Ixiut hooiniiig to play w itii the cata-
ract. Wo became tlushou with huccchn, and
familiar with the danger; and, yielding to
the cxcitoment of the oocaKJon, broke forth
together into a Canadian btuit song. Hing-
ing, or rathor Hhoutiiig, wo danhod along;
mid' wore, 1 bolicvo, in llm inidnt of the cho-
rus, when the boat struck a coiicoalod rock
iinniediatoly at the foot of a full, which
whirled her over in an iiistuiit. Throe of
my men could nut swim, and my tir^t Icel-
ing was to asttiHt them, and save some of
our etlects; but a dliaru cox'-ussion or two
convinced me that I hau not yet saved my-
self. A few Ktrokes brought me into an
eddy, and I landed on a pile of rocks on the
left side. Looking around, I saw that Mr.
I'reuss had gained the shore on the same
side, about twenty yards below ; and a littlo
climbing and swimming soon brought him
to my side. On the opposite side, against
the wall, lay the boat bottom up ; and Lam-
bert was in the act of saving Descoteaux,
whom he hud grasped by the hair, and
who could not swim ; " Ldche fax" said
he, as 1 afterwards learned, " ldche pas, cher
frire.'^ ^^ Grains jms" was the reply, " Je
vien vais mourir avanl que de te Idcher."
Such was the reply of courage and gene-
rosity in this danger. For a hundred yards
below the current was covered with floating
books and boxes, bales of blankets, and scat-
tered articles of clothing ; and so strong and
boiling was the stream, that even our heavy
instruments, which were all in cases, kept
on the surface, and the sextant, circle, and
the long black box of tho telescope, were in
view at once. For a moment, I felt some
what disheartened. All our books — almost
every record of the journey — our journals
and registers of astronomical and barometri"
cal observations — had been lost in a moment.
But it was no time to indulge in regrets ,
and I immediately set about endeavoring to
save something from the wreck. Making

I/','

CAl'T, l'Ui;.\lO\rH NAIIHATIVK.

1184a.

18 VJ

I '.

Ik :■

l,i k

lll'l

narkntv*'" uiulrrNtiMNl nii woll m* iNMMihln l>y
•iifna (for Miitliini; coiilil Ih< licnnl in (In* nmr
Ol wati>rM|, wn t'oiiuntMircd mir o|N«riitioim.
Of ovtfrytliiiiK nii IxMni, tin* only itrtit'ln that
had (mmmi navimI wai* my iI<miI>I*< iNtrri'lli'd f^nn,
winch Dt'Hcotciiux had cauirht, and cliintf to
with drowning tenacity. Tho in'-n roritinu-
od down thp rivpr on tho lull hank. Mr.
Pn-iiKM and niywlf dt'nci'ndt'd on tho sido wi>
worn on ; and l<ajoiuiOHa«>, with a paddio in
hi* hand, jiimiN'd on tho lH)At alono,and ron-
tinned down tlio ciiflijn. HItn wum now liffht,
and cleared *'v<>ry bad place with innch Ti'hn
ditticiilty. In a tihort tiuio ho wan joinod hy
l<anilM<rt, and the ncarch wan continued for
about u inilo and a half, which wan vu* Tar an
tho boat could proceed in the \mm.

Hero tho wiilin were alntut live hundred
foot hiuh, and tho frnj^inentM of rockti Ironi
above liad clutked tho river into a hollow
jMiM, but one or two loot aliovo tho Hiirl'ace.
rhrouj^h thiH and tho interhticcN of iho rock,
tho water tound ilH way. Favored In'yond
our expectation)*, all of our reji^iNforH had
been recovered, with the exception of one
of my journaltt, which contained tho nntOH
and incidcnla of travel, and to|K)i(raphical
dctcriptionfl, a number of Hcattt'rcuaHtrono-
mical observationit, principtilly meridian alti-
tiidort of the Him, and our biiroinetrical re^if-
tor west (»f liUramio. Fortunately, our
other journaU contained duplicatoH of the
most important barometrical obHorvatioim
which had l)oen taken in the mountaiim.
Theflo, with a fow Bcattered notes, were all
that had bccn preserved of our meteorologi-
cal observation."!. In addition to thoHo, we
naved the circle; and thesp, with a fow
blanket8, concUtuted everything that had
been reHcued from the waters.

The day was runninrr rapidly away, and
it was necessary to reach (toat island, whi-
ther tho party had preceded us, before night.
In this uncertain country, the traveller is so
much in the power of chance, that we lie-
came somewhat uneasy in regard to them.
Should anything have occurred, in tho brief
interval of our separation, to prevent our re-
joining them, our situation would be rather
a desperate one. Wo had not a morsel of
provisions^-our arms and ammunition were
fifone — and we were entirely at the mercy of
any strangling party of savages, and not a
Utile in danger of starvation. We therefore
f^et out at once in two parties. Mr. Preuss
and myself on the loft, and the men on the
opposite side of the river. Climbing out of
the canon, we found ourselves in a very
broken country, wh°re we were not yet able
to recognize any locality. In the course of
our descent through the canon, tho rock,
which at the upper end was of tho decom-
posing granite, changed into a varied eand-
Btone formation. The hills and points of tho

rid){pfl w»»rfl roveriHl with fruifirionta of a
yellow nniidpitone, uf whici tin trata were
aioinetiineN dii«pl»yed in the !.roken rnvine*
which inlerriinteil our rouri>>, and nutde nur
walk extn'Miely littiKuing. At one |Miintof
tho caAon the red argillnceoim uniidiitoiie
nwe in a wall ol tlve hundred feet, pturiiioiint-
ed by fi Ntrutuin of white MandHtone ; and in
anopiKMite ravine a column of red xiindHtune
roue, In form like a Hteepl<>, n\t»»t one hiimlred
and fifty feet high. The Ncenery wax extreme-
ly picturemiue, and iiotwithHtnnding nur lor-
l<»rn •'onditioii, we were frecpiently obliged tn
Mtop and admin <t, Our progrexN wun not
very rapid. We had emerged Irom tho water
half naked, and, on arriving at the top ol thn
precipice, I found inyMolf with only one nioc-
catin. The I'rnumentM of rock made whI1<.
iiig pitiiil'iil, and I was freipiently obliged lo
Htop and pull out tho thornn ot tho rnrtun,
here the prevailii^f plant, and with which a
few ininuteH* walk covered tho lK>ttom of my
feet. From thin ridge tho river emerged
into a smiling prairie, and, descending to the
liitnk for water, we were joiiiod by Denoist.
The rest of tho party wero out of sight,
having taken ii more inland route. Wo
cro.-tsed the river rC)ieatodly — somntimea
able to ford it, and Homotimes ■wimming—
climbed over llio ridges of two more cnAons,
and towardrt evening reached tho cut, which
wo hero named tho Hot Hpring gate. On
our previous visit in July, we had not enter-
ed this pass, reserving it for our doHcent in
the boat ; and when we entered it this even-
ing, Mr. Preuss was a fow hundred feet in
advance. Heated with the long march, ho
came suddenly upon a Hne l)old spring gush-
ing from the rocK, about ten feet aUwo the
river. Eager to enjoy the crystal water, ho
threw himself down for a hasty draught, an J
took a mouthful of water almost boiling hot.
He Baid nothing to Benoist, who laid himself
down to drink ; but the steam from the water
arrested his eagerness, and he escaped tho
hot draught. We had no thermometer to
ascertain the temperature, but I could hold
my hand in the water just long enough to
count two seconds. There are eight or ten
of these springs discharging themselves by
streams large enough to be called runs. A
loud hollow noise was heard from the rocU,
which I supposed to be produced by the full
of the water. The strata immediately whore
they issue is a fine white and calcareous
sandstone, covered with an incrustation of
common salt. Leaving this Thermopylee of
the west, in a short walk wo reached the rod
ridge which has been descril)ed as lying just
above Goat Island. Ascending this, we
found some fresh tracks and a button, which
showed that the other men had already ar-
rived. A shout from the man who fint
reached the top of the ridge, responded to

1842.)

rwr. FriKMONT'H naiirativb.

from In*I()W, inrnmnl u* tlmt our (rii'iiilit v/t>rn
nil on tho ijiUnd ; nrid mk wen' imhiii AiimriK
lh»Mii. Wi» foiiml »i(Miii» purcn ol' ttiiinilo
•tHridini; nroiind tho (ir«> foriiit, wn'i iimiia((i'ii
til i^i't Miiiin dry clothi'M miioiii/ I hi' |NH)p|«.
A Miiddon Htorin of rkiii dmvd im into tlic
lit'iit xlioltiT wi) could llrid, wlii>rn wo «li>pt
DDiindly, itllnr oiio ol' lh(> moat fiitigiiiiiifdnya
I hnv<' ovnr i'X|>«rifliic«Hl.

Auffunl '26. — Karly tliia niorniiig I^Hitui-
nnmto waa M>nt to tlia wrock for tho artirl««
which hnd Imrn niivpd, niul «hout noon wn
li'ft thi< iNltirxl. The imiri> which wo had
l»ff lii'rc in July hiiu much improved in con-
ilttiiMi, iind xhfl Mtirvcd um wi'II iiufniii for xomo
tiiiic, hut WUH lltmlly niMtndoiu'u nt a Hulwn-
i|MiMit piirt of the joiininy. At 10 in tho
iui>rniii|j of tho QHth wo roRchrd (.'acho
iiitiip, whcro wo found ovcrythinjj undiit-
liirU'd. Wo disinterred our dojKwit, ar-
ruii^rod our carta which had Iwen left hern on
tilt! wny out, and, travollinp; a few niilen in
the ufti'rnoon, encamptid fur the ni((lit at tho
ford of tho I'latte.

Aiitliist 27. — At ntiddny wo halted at tho
plrice wlu'ip wo hnd taken dinner on the 'J7lh
of July. The country which, when wo pasa>
Oil up, iooited an if tho hard winter Iroata
hud panxed over it, had now nnHumcd a now
fHce, so much of vernal froHlineia had b(>on
piven to it by tho lato ralnn. Tho I'liittc waa
exccedinj^ly low — a more line of wntcramonf;
tlin Niuidlxira. We roacheil Iiaritmio fort on
the lH«t day of Augunt, alter an abscnco of
forty-two daya, and had the pleiiHui-** to Iind
our friondH ail well. The ' Tlie'.i diiy had
been fixed for our return ; anc »ho quick eyes
of tho IndianH, who were on t'. > hnikout for
UH, diricovvred our ttng an wo wound nmonv
tho hilln. The fort saluted UMwitli rejieatcd
diHcliarj(eH of its HJngle piece, which we re-
turned with acattorud volleys of our small
arms, and felt the joy of a houio reception in
getting back to this remote station, which
seemed so far ofT as wo went out.

On the morning of tho 3d of Septemlior we
bade adieu to our kind friends at the fort,
and Continued nnr homeward journey down
tlie Platte, which was glorious with the au-
tumnal splendor ot] innumerable flowers in
full and brilliant bloom. On the warm sands,
among the helianthi, one of the characteristic
plants, we saw great numbers of rattlesnakes,
of which five or six wore killed in the morn-
ing's ride. We occupied ourselves in im-
proving our previous survey of the river;
and, as the weather was fine, astronomical
observations were generally made at night
and at noon.

We halted for a short time on the after-
noon of the 6th with a village of Sioux In-
dians, some of whose chiefs we had met at
Laramie. Tho water in the Platte was ex-
tremely low ; in many places, the large ex-

(MinHo of MatidH, with nome occanionnl Ntunt4>d
IrccH on the iNtnkN, gave it the air rif (hi> iM>a-
cfHixl ; the \ti>i\ of the river bt'injf meri'ly a
xucreRxion ot RandlmrM, among v\liicli th«
cliaitiiel was divided into riviiletNu fi>w inchea
deep. Wo cnmaed and recroMM'd with our
carts re|M>ntedly iind iil our pleiiHure ; and,
whenever iiii oUl ruction liurred our way, in
the shafM} of precipitnuH blufls tliitt caiiio
down upon tho river, we turii<>d directly into
it, and made our way along tlie niin<ly bed,
with no other inconvenience tlinn the frp«
'jiient (|uickitaiidH, which greatly tntigui'd our
animals. Diiiintprring on tho way the cachi
which had been made by our party when they
ascended tho river, wo reached without ac«
cident, on tho evening of tho TJlh of H<>p.
teinlN)r,our old encampment of the >Jd of July,
at the juiictitm of tho forks. Our rochg of
tho barrel of pork wan found undisturbed,
and proved a seasonable adilition to our stock
of provisions. At this place I had determin-
ed to miiko another attempt to descend tho
I'latte by water, and accordinglv '•pent two
days in the construction of u bull Ijout. Men
were sent out on tl> vening of our arrival,
the necessary niii<.i<i'r of bulls kille<l, and
their akina brought to tho camp. Four of
the beat of them were strongly sewed to-
gether with buffalo sinow, und stretched
over a basket frame of willow. The seams
were then covered with ashes and tallow, and
tho Imat left exposed to tho sun for the great-
er part of one day, which was suflicicnt to
dry and contract the skin, and iniike the whole
work solid and strong. It had a roiwidcd
Iniw, was eight feet long and five broad, and
drew with four men aliout four inches water.
Oa the morning of tliu 15th we embarked in
our hide boat, Mr. Preuss and myself, with
two men. We dragged her over tho sandi«
for three or four miles, and tTien left her on
a bar, and abandoned entirely all further at-
tempts to navigate this river. The names
given by the Indians arc always remarkably
iippropriate ; and certainly none was ever
more so than that which they have given to
this stream — " the Nebraska, or Shallow
river." Walking steadily tho remainder of
the day, a littlo before dark wo overtook our
people at their remaining camp, aliout twenty-
one miles below the junction. The next
morning we crossed the Platte, and continued
our way down tho river bottom on tho letl
bank, where wo found an excellent plainly
beaten road.

On the 18th we reached Grand Island,
which is fifty-two miles loner, with an ave-
rage breadth of one mile anu three-quarters.
It has on it some small eminences, and ia
sufficiently elevated to be secure from the
annual floods of the river. As has been
already remarked, it ia well timbered, with
an excellent soil, and recommends itself to

'*.• f*.

l<2

CA1»T. FREMOi/i'S NARRATIVE.

ri84a

notice nti the best pint fur a military position
on the Lower Platte.

On the 22(1 we arrived at the village of
the Grand I'awnees, on the right bank of the
river, about thirty miles above the mouth of
tlie Loup fork. They were gathering in
their corn, and we obtained from them a very
welcome supply of vegetablcH.

The morning of the 24th we reached the
Loup fork of the Platte. At 'Jie place where
wo forded it, this stream was four hundred
.ind thirty vards broad, with a swift current
of dear water ; in this respect, ditTering from
the Platte, which has a yellow muddy color,
derived from the limestone and ma/1 iorm-
ation, of which we have previously spoken.
The ford was difficult, as the water wJs so
deep that it came into the body of the cartti;
and we reached the opposite bank after re-
peated attempts, ascending and descending;
the bed of the river in order to avail our-
selves of the bars. We encamped en the
left bank of the fork, in the point of land at
its junction with the Platte. During the
two days that we remained here for astro-
nomical observations, the bad weather per-
mitted us to obtain but one good observation
for the latitude — a meridian alti^.:de of the
sun, which gave for the latitude of the mouth
of the Loup fork, 41° 22' 11".

Five or six days previously, I had sent
forward C. Lambert, with two men, to Belle-
vue, with directions to ask from Mr. P.
Sarpy, the gentleman in charge of the Ame-
rican Company's establishment at that place,
the aid of his carpenters in constructing a
boat, in which I proposed to descend the
Missouri. On the afternoon of the 27th we
met one of the men, who had been despatch-
ed by Mr. Sarpy with a welcome supply of
provisions and a very kind note, which gave
U3 the very gratifying intelligence that our
boat w as in rapid progress. On the evening
of the .SOth we encamped in an almost im-
penetri'jie undergrowth on the left bank of
the P'atte, in the point of land at its conflu-
eice with ihe Missouri — three hundred and
fifie( 1 miles, according to our reckoning,
from the junction of the forks, and five hun-
dred and twenty from Fort Laramie.

From the junction we had found the bed
of the Platte occupied with numerous islands,
oianv of them very large, and all well tim-

bered ; p tssesaing, as well as the buttora
hinds ul the river, a very excellent soil.
With the exception of some scattered groves
on the hanks, the bottoms are generally
without timl>ur. A portion of these consist
of low grounds, covered with a profusion of
tine grasses, and arc probably inundated in
the spring ; the remaining part is high river
prairie, entirely beyond tl.d influence of the
floods. The breadth of the river is usually
three-quarters of a mile, cwopt where it is
enlarged by islands. That portion of its
course which is occupied by Grand island
has an average breadth, from shore to shore,
of two and a half miles.

October 1. — I rose this morning long be-
fore daylight, and h'^rrdwith a feeling of
pleasure the tinkling of cow-bells at the set-
tlements on the oppos te side of the Missouri.
Early in the day we reached Mr. Sarpy's
residence ; and, in the security and comfort
of his hospitable mansion, felt the pleasure
of being again within the pale of civilisa-
tion. We found our boat on the stocks ;
a few days sutficed to complete her ; and, in
the afternoon of the 4th, we embarked on
the Missouri. All our equipage — horses,
carts, and the materiel of the camp — had
been sold at public auction at Bellevue.
The s:.-ength of my party enabled me to man
the boat with ten oars, relieved every hour ;
and we descended rapidly. Early on the
morning of the tenth, we halted to make
some astronomical observations at the mouth
of the Kansas, exactly four months since we
had left the trading post of Mr. Cyprian
Chouteau, on the same river, ten miles
above. On our descent to this place, we
had employed ourselves in surveying and
sketching the Missouri, making astronomi-
cal observations regularly at night and at
midday, whenever the wet .her permitted.
These operations on the river were conti-
nued until our arrival at the city of St. Louis,
Missouri, on the 17th. At St. Louis, the
&ale of our remaining efiects was made ;
and, leaving that city by steamboat on the
18th, I had the honor to report to you at the
city of Washingt-m on the 29th of October.

Very respectfu.iy, sir.

Your obedient servant,

J. C. FREMONT,
fid Lieut. Corps of TopogU Ergineei's.

■i >v

1-:; ?-■■•.■■.•>,

'i ^^

,*rf)>

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARR/.TIVE.

•I

ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS.

The longitudet given in the eubjoined table are referred to the meridian of €hreenwiek.

For the determination of utronomieal posi-
lions, we were provided with the following in-
tttruments:
One telescope, magnifying power 120.
One circle, by Gambey. Paris.
One sextant, by Gambey, Paris.
One sextant, by Troiighton.
One box chronometer, No. 7,810, by French.
One Urockbank pocket chronometer.
One small watch with a light chronometer bal-
ance, No. 4,632, by Arnold &. Dent.
The rate of the chronometer 7,810, is exhibit-
ed in the following statement :

" New York, May 5, 1842.
"Chronometer No. 7,810, by French, is this
day at noon —
" SloiD of Greenwich mean time 11' 4"
" Fast of New York mean time 4A.43' 1"
" Looes per oay . ^"r^

" ARTHUR STEWART,

" 74 Merchants' Exchan,re."

An accident among kome rough ground in
the neighborhood of the Kansas nver, strained
the balance of this chronometer, (No. 7,810,)
and rendered it useless dunng the remainder ui
the campaign. From the 9th of June to the
24tb of AuguHt, inclusively, the longitudes de-
pend upon the Brockbank pocket clironometcr ;
the rate of which, on leaving St. Ijouis, wu^
fourteen seconds. The rate obtained by obser-
vations at Fort Laramie, 14".05, has been used
in calculation.

From the 24th of August until the termina-
tion of the journey. No. 4,632 (of which tho
rate was 35".79) was used for the same pur-
poees. The rate of this watch was irregular,
and I place but little confidence in the few
longitudes which depend upon it, though, so far
as we have any means of judging, they appear
tolerably correct.

Table of latitudes and longitudes, deduced from observations made during
' : the journey. •.; . '

Date.

1842.

May 27

June 8

18
19
20
25
26
27
28
30
2

JqIt

4
6
7
11
12
13
14
16
23
24
25
26
26
28
39

Station.

St. Lonia, residence of Co'anel Brant ...
Chouteau's lower trading post, Kansas river -
Left bank of the Kansas river, seven miles above the

ford

Vermilion creek ......

Cold Springs, near the nitad to Laramie

Big Blue river --..-..

Little Blue river

Right bank of Platte river

Right bank of Platte river .....

Right bank of Platte river

Junction of north and south forks of the Nebraska

or Platte river ......

South fork ol Tlatte river, left bank.

South fork o'" TNtte river, island . . - -

South forh of Platte river, left bank

South fork of Platte river, St. Vrain's fort

Crow creek .......

On a stream, name unknown ....

Horse creek, Goshen's hole 1 ....

Fort Laramie, near the mouth of Laramie's fork -

North fork of Platte river

North fork of Platte river, Dried Meat camp -
North fork of Platte river, noon halt ...
North fork of Platte river, mouth of Deer creek -
North fork of Platte river. Cache camp
North ftrk of Platte river, left bank - . -

Latitude.

Deg. min. sec.

38 37 34

39 05 57

39 06 40

39 15 19

39 30 40

39 45 08

40 26 50
40 41 06
40 39 32
40 39 51

40 39 55

41 05 O."*

40 51 17

40 53 26

40 22 35

40 41 59

41 08 30

41 40 13

42 12 10
42 39 25
42 47 40
42 51 35
42 50 08
42 52 24
42 50 53
42 38 01

Longiinde.

Deg. min. sec.

94 25 46

95 38 05

96 04 07
96 14 49
96 32 35
98 22 12

98 45 49

99 05 24

100 05 47

100 49 43

103 07

103 30 37
105 i2 12

104 57 49
104 39 37
104 24 36
104 47 43

104 59 59

105 50 45

106 08 24
106 38 26
106 54 32

D«U>.

184S.
July 30
Aug. 1

4
7
8

Sept 3

8
9
10
16
16
17
18
19
20
20
21
23
23
25
28
29
Oct. 2

5
6
6
8
10

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARUAl'lVE.
Table of latitudes and longitudes — Continued.

[IMS.

Btotloa.

North fork of Platte rirer, Goat island ■ • .

Sweet Water river, one mile below Rook Indepen-
dence -...-.-.

Sweet Water river ....--

Sweet Water river .-...-

Little Sundy creek, tributary to the Colorado of the
AVeet

New fork, tributary to the Colorado . . .

Mountain lake .......

Highest peak of the Wind river mountaina.

Sweet Water, noon halt .....

Sweet Water river ......

Sweet Water river, noon halt ....

Sweet Water river, at Rock Independence •

North fork of Platte river, mouth of Sweet Water -

Horse-shoe creek, noon halt . . . .

North fork of Platte river, right bank ...

North fork of Platte river, near Scott's bliif& -

North fork of Platte river, right bank, six miles above
Chimney rock ......

North fork of Platte river, mouth of Ash creek

North fork of Platte river, right bank . - -

North fork of Platte river. Cedar bluffi - . .

Platte river, noon halt .....

Platte river, left bank

Platte river, left bank ......

Platte river, left bank

Platte river, left bank ......

Platte river, noon halt, left bank ....

Platte river, ta^ bank ......

Platte river, left bank ......

Platte river, noon halt, left bank ....

Platte river, left bank

Platte river, mouth of Loup fork ....

Platte river, mouth of Elk Horn river ...

Platte river, left bank ......

Bellevue, at the post of the American Fur Company,
right bank of the Missouri river ...

Left bank of the Missouri, opposite to the right bank
of the mouth of the Platte ....

Missouri river .......

Bertholet's island, noon halt ....

Missouri river, mouth of Nishnabatona river -

Missouri river, left bank

Misaoori river, mouth of the Kansas river

LaUtnde.

LoDgitads.

min.

tee.

Deff.

mm.

g«e.

107

108

109

110

■

I- '

' *

■' '

. tJ

" I

^v;.'! ;-icM

■*5

■, »," ^ t. i ■ .-

■ H?

'*J,r:.V

, 1

.A'

A REPORT

or
THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION

. . ' TO

OREGON AND NORTH CALIFORNIA,

IN THE YEARS 1843-'44.

■Qi

Washington Cixy, March 1, 1845.
Colonel J. J. Abert, Chief of the
Corps of Topographical Engineers :
Sir : — In pursuance of your instructions,
to connect the reconnoissance of 1842, which
I had the honor to conduct, with the 8"rveys
of Commander Wilkes on the coast of the
Pacific ocean, so as to give a connected sur-
vey of the interior of our continent, I pro-
ceeded to the Great West early in the spring
of 1843, and arrived, on the 17tl» of May,
at tho little town of Kansas, on the Mis-
souri frontier, near the junction of '\e Kan-
sas river with the Missouri river, where I
was detained near two weeks in completing
the necessary preparations for the extended
explorations which my instructions contem-
plated.

My party consisted principally of Creole
and Canadian French, and Americans,
lunounting in all to 39 men ; among whom
you will recognise several of those who
were with me in my first expedition, and
who have been favorably brought to your
notice in a former report. Mr. Thomas
Fitzpatrick, whom many years of hardship
and exposure in the western territories, had
rendered familiar with a portion of the coun-
try it was designed to explore, had been se-
lected as our guide ; and Mr. Charles
Preuss, who had been my assistant in the
previous journey, was again associated with
me in the same capacity on the present ex-
pedition. Agreeably to your directions,
Mr. Theodore Talbot, of Washington city,
had been attached to the party, with a view
to advancement in his profession ; and at
St. Louis I had been joined by Mr. Frede-
rick Dwight, a gentleman ot Springfield,
Massachusetts, who availed himself of our
overland journey, to visit the Sandwich

Islands and China, by way of Fort Vaa-
couver.
The men engaged for the service were :

Alexis Ayot,
Francois Badeau,
Oliver Beaulieu,
Baptiste Bernier,
John A. Campbell,
John G. Campbell,
Manuel Chapman,
Ransom Clark,
Philibert Courteau,
Michel Cri-lis,
William Creuss,
Clinton Deforest,
Baptiste Derosicr.
Basil Lajeunesse,
Francois Lajeunesse,
Henry Lee,

Louis Menard,
Louis Montreuil,
Samuel Neal,
Alexis Pera,
Francois Pera,
James Power,
Raphael Proue,
Oscar Sarpy,
Baptiste Tabeau,
ChailoH Taplin,
Baptiste Tesson,
Anguste Vasquez,
I oseph Verrot,
1 alrick White,
Tiery Wright,
Louis Zimiel, and

Jacob Dodson, a free young colored man of
Washington city, who volunteered fo ac-
company the expedition, and performed his
duty manfully throughout the voyage. Two
Delaware Indians — a fine-looking old man
and his son — were engaged to acconipany
the expedition as hunters, through the kind
ness of Major Cummins, the excellent In-
dian agent. L. Maxwell, who had acconi-
panied'the expedition as one of the hunters
in 1843, being on his way to Taos, in No v
Mexico, also joined us at this place.

The party was armed generally with
Hairs carbines, which, with a brass 1*2-U>.
howitzer, had been furnished to me from the
United States arsenal at St. Louis, agreea-
bly to the orders of Colonel S. W. Kearney,
commanding the 3d military division. Three
men were especially detailed for the man-
agement of this piece, under the charge of
Louis Zindel, a native of Germany, who had
been 19 years a non-commissioned officer

►'•■>.'¥

CAFT. FREMONT'S NAHKATIVE.

[1643

Si?

|:r.

of artillery in the Prussian army, and regu-
larly instructed in the duties of his pioj'es-
sion. The camp equipage and provJHions
were transported in twelve carls, drawn
each by two mules ; and a light covered
wagon, ninunted on good springs, had been
provided for the safer carriage of iiiUru-
menta. Thesr, were :

One refracting telescope, hy l''rauf-nha-
fer.

One reflecting circle, by Ganibey.

Two sexttnts. by Trougliton.

One pocket chronometer, No. 837, by
Gofle, Falmouth.

One pocket chronometer, No. 739, by
Urockbank.

One syphon barometer, by iluiiten, Paris.

One cistern barometer, by I'rye & Shaw,
New York.

Six thermometers, and a number of small
compasses.

To make the exploration us useful as pos-
sible, I determined, in conformity to your
general instructions, to vary the route to
the iiocky mountains from that followed in
the year 1842. The route was then up the
valley of the Great Platte river to the South
Pass, in north latitude 42^ ; the route now
determined on was up the valley of the
Kansas river, and to the head of the Ar-
kansas river, and to some pass in the moun-
tains, if any could be found, at the sources
of that river.

By making this deviation from the former
route, the problem of a new road to Oregon
and California, in a climate more genial,
might be solved ; and a better knowledge
obt.iined of an important river, and the coun-
try "t drained, while the great object of the
expedition would find its point of commence-
ment at the termination of the former, which
was at that great gate in the ridge of the
Rocky mountains called the South Pass,
and on the lofty peak of the mountam which
overlooks it, deemed the highest peak in the
ridge, and from the opposite sides of which
four great rivers take their rise, and flow to
the Pacific or the Mississippi.

Various obstacles delayed our departure
until the morning of the 29lh, when we com-
menced our long voyage ; and at the close of a
day, rendered disagreeably cold by incessant
rain, encamped about four miles beyond the
frontier, on the verge of the great prairies.

Resuming our journey on the 31st, after
the delay of a day to complete our equip-
ment and furnish ourselves with some of
the comforts of civilized life, we encamped
in the evening at Elm Grove, in company
with several emigrant wagons, constituting
a party which was proceeding to Upper Cal-
ifornia, under the direction of Mr. J. B.
Childs, of Missouri. The wagons were va-
riously freighted with goods, furniture, and

farming utensils, containing among other
things an entire set of machir.cry for a mill
which Mr. Childs designed erecting on tii6
waters of the Sacrament(» river iimptying
into the l)ay of San Francisco.

We wen- joined hero by Mr. William
Gilpin, of Missouri, who, iiitemling this
year to visit the settlements in Oregon, had
been invited to accompany us, and proved
a useful and agreeable addition to the par-
ty. From this encampment, our route un-
til the 3d of Juno was nearly the same as
that described to _,ou in 1842. Trains of
wagons were almost constantly in sight ;
giving to the road a populous aid animated
appearance, althougit the greater portion of
the emigrants wiire collected at the cross-
ing, or already on their mtirch beyond the
Kansas river.

Leaving at the ford '.he i.sual emigrant
road to the mountains, we continued our
route along the southern side of the Kan-
sas, where we found the country much more
broken than on the northern side of the
river, and where our progress was much
delayed by the numerous small streams,
which obliged us to make frequent bridges.
On the morning of the 4th, we crossed a
ii..:Hlsomc stream, called by the Indians Ot-
ter ct'eek, about 130 feet wide, where a flat
stratum of limestone, which forms the bed,
made an excellent ford. We met here a
small pnrty of Kaftsas and Delaware In-
dians, the latter returning from a hunting
and trapping expedition on the upper waters
of the river ; and on the heights above were
five or six Kansas women, engaged in dig-
ging prairie potator.s, (psoralea esculenta.)
On the afternoon . the 6th, while busily
engaged in cro .iig a wooded stream, we
were thrown into a little confusion by the
sudden arrival of Maxwell, who entered the
camp at full speed at the head of a war
party of Osage Indians, with gay red blank-
ets, and heads slmved to the scalp lock.
They had run him i distance of i '-out nme
miles, from a creek on which wc had en-
camped the day previous, and to which he
had returned in search of a runaway horse
belonging to Mr. Dwight, which had tak«n
the homeward road, carrying with him sad-
dle, bridle, and holster pistols. The Osagos
were probably ignorant of our strength, and,
when they charged into the camp, drove off
a number of our best horses ; but we werp
fortunately well mounted, and, after a hard
chase of seven or eight miles, s oeeded lu
recovering them all. This accident, which
occasioned delay and trouble, an I threatened
danger and loss, and broke down some good
horses at the start, and actually endangered
the expedition, was a first fruit of having
gentlemen in company — very estimable, to
be sure, but who are not trained to the oare

1843

other
a mill

oil tll6
plying

'iiliaiii
I thia
II, liiul
iioved
le par
ite un-
inc as
[lins of
sight ;
iniuted
ion of
cross-
nd the

i84S.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

and vigilance and self-dependence which
such nn expedition required, and who are
not subject to the orders which onforoe at-
tention and exertion. We arrived on the
8lh at the mouth of the Smoky-hill fork,
which is the principal southern branch of
the Kansas ; forming here, by its junction
with the Republican, or northern branch,
the ir.;\in Kansas river. Neither stream
vas fordable, and the necessity of making
a rafl, together with bad weather, detained
us here until the morning of the 11th ; when
we resumed our journey along tlie Republi-
can fork. By our observations, the junc-
tion of the streams is in latitude 39'=> 03' 38 ",
longitude 96<^ 34' 56", and at an elevation
of U'26 feet above the gulf of Mexico. For
several days we continued *o trave! along
;he Hep.tblican, through a • lantry beauti-
fully watered with numerous.' streams, hand-
somely timbered ; and rardJy an incident
occurred to vary the monotonous resem-
blance which one day on the piairies here
bears to another, and which scarcely ro
quire a particalar description. Now and
then, we caught a glimpse of a small herd
of elk ; and occasionally a band of ante-
lopes, whose curiosity sometimes brought
them within rifle range, would circle round
us, and then scour off into the prairies.
As we advanced on c<ir road, these became
more frequent ; but as we journeyed on the
line usually followed by the trapping and
hunting parties of the Kansas and Dela-
ware Indians, game of every kind continued
very shy and wild. The bottoms which
form the immediate valley of the main riv-
er were generally about three miles wide ;
having a rich soil of block vegetable mould,
and, for a prairie country, well interspersed
with wood. Tb.i country was everywhere
covered with a, considerable variety of
grasses, occasianally poor and thin, but far
more frequently luxuriant and rich. We
had been gradually and regularly ascending
in our progress westward, and on the even-
ing of the 14th, when we encamped on a
little creek in the valley of the Republican,
265 miles by our travelling road from the
mouth of the Kansas, we were at an eleva-
tion of 1,520 feet. That part of the river
where we were now encamped is called by
the Indians the Big Timber. Hitherto our
route had been laborious and extremely
slow, the unusually wet spring and constant
rain having so saturated the whole country
that it was necessary to bridge every water-
course, and, for days together, our usual
march averaged only five or six miles.
Finding that at such a rate of travel it
would be innpossible to comply with your
instructions, 1 detennined at this place to
divide the party, and, leaving Mr. Fitzpat-
riok with tJtr^ty-five men in charge of the

provisions and heavier baggage of the camp,
to proceed myself in advance, with a light
party of fifteen men, taking with me the
howitzer and the light wagon which carried
the instruments.

Accordingly, on the morning of the 16th,
the parties separated ; and, bearing a little
out from the river, with a view of heading
some of the numerous affluents, after a 1 v
hours' travel over somewhat broken ground,
we entered i pon an extensive and high level
prairie, on which we encamped towards
evening at a little stream, where a single
dry cotton-woo 1 afforded the necessary fuel
for preparing si pper. Among a variety of
grasses which to-day made their first ap-
pearance, I notiod bunch-grass, (festuca,)
and buffalo-grass, (sesleria dactyloidea.)
Amorpha canescens (lead plant) continued
the characteristic plant of the country, and
a narrow-leaved lathyrus occurred during
the morning in beautiful patches. Sida coc-
cinea occurred frequently, with a psoralia
near psoralia floribunda, and a number of
plants not hitherto met, just verging into
bloom. The water on which we had en-
camped belonged to Solomon's fork of
the Smoky-hill river, along whose trib-
utaries we continued to travel for teveral
days.

The country afforded us an excellent
road, the route being generally over high
and very level prairies ; and we met with
no other delay than being frequently obliged
to bridge one of the numerous streams,
which were well timbered with ash, elm,
Cottonwood, and a very large oak — the lat-
ter being occasionally five and six feet in
diameter, with a spreading summit. Sida
coccinea is very frequent in vermilion-col-
ored patches on the high and low prairie ;
and I remarked that it has a very pleasant
perfume.

The wild sensitive plant (schrankia an-
gustata) occurs frequently, generally on the
dry prairies, in valleys of streams, and fre-
quently on the broken prairie bank. I re-
mark that the leaflets close instantly to a
very light touch. Amorpha, with the same
psoralea, and a dwarf species of lupinus,
are the characteristic plants.

On the 19th, in the afternoon, we crossed
the Pawnee road to the Arkansas, and trav-
elling a few miles onward, the monotony of
the prairies was suddenly dispelled by the
appearance of five or six buffalo bulls, form-
ing a vanguard of immense herds, among
which we were travelling a few days after-
wards. Prairie dogs were seen for the first
time during the day ; and we had the good
fortune to obtain an antelope for supper.
Our elevation had now increased to 1,900
feet. Sida coccinea was a characteristic on
the creek bottoms, and buffalo grass is be-

^,5

■.y'fp

't • I-'.

l'^^^

Z"^^

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVK.

[1843.

coining abundant on the higher parts of the
ridges.

June 21. — During the forenoon we trav-
elled up a branch of the creek on which
we hud encamped, in a broken country,
where, however, the dividing ridges always
afforded a good rond. Plants were few ;
and with the short sward of the buffalo
(frass, which now prevailed everywhere,
(giving to the prairies a smooth and mossy
iippt'aranco, were mingled frequent patches
of a beautiful red grass, (aristtda pollens,)
which had made its appearance only within
the last few days.

Wo halted to noon at a solitary cotton-
woud in a hollow, near which was killed the
ffrst buffalo, a large old bull.

Antelope appeared in bands during the
day. Crossing here to the affluents of the
Republican, we encamped on a fork, about
forty feet wide and one foot deep, flowing
with a swift current over a sandy bed, and
well wooded with ash-leaved maple, (ne-
gundo fraxinifolium,) elm, cotton-wood, and
a fsw white oaks. We were visited in the
evening by a very violent storm, accompa-
nied by wind, lightning, and thunder ; a cold
rain falling in torrents. According to the
barometer, our elevation was 2,130 feet
above the gulf.

At noon, on the 23d, we descended into
the valley of a principal fork of the Re-
publican, a beautiful stream with a dense
border of wood, consisting principally of
varieties of ash, forty feet wide and four
feet deep. It was musical with the notes
of many birds, which, from the vast expanse
of silent prairie around, seemed all to have
collected here. We continued during the
afternoon our route along the river^ which
was populous with prairie dogs, (the bot-
toms being entirely occupied with their vil-
lages,) and late in the evening encamped on
its banks. The prevailing timber is a blue-
foliaged ash, (fraxinus, near F. Ameri-
cana,) and ash-leaved maple. With these
were fruxi tus Americana, cotton- wood, and
)'■ „ ieaveu willow. We gave to this stream
me name of Prairie Dog river. Elevation
2,350 feet. Our road on the 25th lay over
high smooth ridges, 3,100 feet above the
sea ; buffalo in great numbers, absolutely
covering the face of the country. At even-
ing we encamped vrithin a few miles of the
main Republican, on a little creek, where
the air was fragrant with the perfume of
artemisia filifolia, which we here saw for
the ffrst time, and which was now in bloom.
Shortly after leaving our encampment on
the 26th, we found suddenly that the nature
of the country had entirely changed. Bare
sand hills everywhere surrounded us in the
undulating ground along which we were
moving ; and the plants peculiar to a sandy

soil made their appearance in abundance.
A few miles further wo entered the valley
of a large stream, afterwards known to b«
the Republican fork of the Kansas, whoss
shallow waters, with a depth of only a few
inches, were spread out over a bod of yel-
lowieh white sand 000 yards wide. With
the exception of one or two distant and de-
tached groves, no timber of any kind was
to be seen ; and the features of the country
assumed a desert character, with which the
broad river, struggling fur existence among
quicksands along the treeless banks, was
strikingly in keeping. On the opposite side,
the broken ridges assumed almost a moun-
tainous appearance ; and fording the stream,
we continued on our course among these
ridges, and encamped late in the evening at
a little pond of very bad water, from which
we drove away a herd of buffalo that were
standing in and about it. Our encampment
this evening was 3,600 feet above the sea.
We travelled now for several days through
a broken and dry ^andy region, about 4,000
feet above the sea, where there were no
running streams ; and some anxiety was
constantly felt on account of the uncertainty
of water, which was only to be found in
small lakes that occurred occasionally among
the hills. The disco\'ery of these always
brought pleasure to the camp, as around
them were generally green flats, which af-
forded abundant pasturage for our animals ;
and here were usually collected herds of the
buffalo, which now were scattered over all
the country in countless numbers.

The soil of bare and hot sands supported
a varied and exuberant growth of plants,
which were much farther advanced than we
had previously found them, and whose showy
bloom somewhat relieved the appearance of
general sterility. Crossing the summit of an
elevated and continuous range of rolling
hills, on the afternoon of the 30th of June,
we found ourselves overlooking a broad and
misty valley, where, about ten miles distant,
and 1,000 feet below us, the South fork of
the Platte was rolling magnificently along,
swollen with the waters of the melting
snows. It was in strong and refreshing
contrast with the parched country from
which we had just issued ; and when, at
night, the broad expanse of water grew in-
distinct, it almost seemed that we had
pitched our tents on the shore of the
sea.

1'ravelling along up the valley of the
river, here 4,000 feet above the sea, in the
afternoon of July 1, we caught a far and
uncertain view of a faint blue mass in the
west, as the sun sank behind it ; and from
our camp in the morning, at the mouth of
Bijou, Long's peak and the neighboring
mountains stood out into the sky, grand an<

1848.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

luminously white, covered to their bases
with glittering snow.

On the evening of the 3(1, as we were
journeying alonff the partially overflowed
bottoms of the Platte, where our passage
stirred up swarms of mosquitoes, we came
unexpectedly on an Indian, who was
perched upon a bluflf, curiously watching tho
muvcmcnts of our caravan. Ho belonged
to a village of Oglallah Sioux, who hud lost
all their animals in tho suvcriiy nf tho pre-
ceding winter, and were now on their way
up the Bijou fork to beg liorHCs from the
Arapahoes, who were hunting bulfulo at the
head of that river. Several came into our
camp at noon ; and, as they were hungry, as
usual, they v/ere provided with butfalo meat,
of which the hunters had brought in an
abundant supply.

About noon, on the 4th of July, we ar-
rived at the fort, where Mr. St. Vrain re-
ceived us with his customary kindness, and
invited ua to join him in a feast which had
been prepared in honor of the day.

Our animals were very much worn out,
and our stock of provisions entirely ex-
hausted when we arrived at the fort ; but I
was disappointed in my hope of obtaining
relief, as I found it in a very impoverished
condition ; and we were able to procure on-
ly a little unbolted Mexican flour, and some
salt, with a few pouuds of powder and lead.

As regarded provisions, it did not much
matter in a country where rarely the day
passed without seeing some kind of game,
and where it was frequently abundant. It
was a rare thing to lie down hungry, and
we had already learned to think bread a
luxury ; but we could not proceed without
animals, and our own were not capable of
prosecuting the journey beyond the moun-
tains without relief.

I had been informed that a large numi it
of mules had recently arrived at Taos, from
Upper California; and as our friend, Mr.
Maxwell, was about to continue his journey
to that place, where a portion of his family
resided, I engaged him to purchase for me
10 or 12 mules, with the understanding that
he should pack them with provisions and
other necessaries, and meet me at the mouth
of the Fontaine-qui-bouit, on the Arkansas
river, to which point I would be led in the
course of the survey.

Agreeably to his own request, and in the
conviction that his habits of life and educa-
tion had not qualified him to endure the hard
life of a voyageur, I discharged here one of
my party, Mr. Oscar Sarpy, having furnished
him with arms and means of transportation
to Fort Laramie, where he would be in the
line of caravans returning to the States.

At daybreak, on the 6th of July, Maxwell
was on his way to Taos ; and a few hours

after we also had recommenced our journe]r
up the Platte, which was continuously tim-
bered with cotton-wood and willow, on a
generally sandy soil. Passing on the way
the rom.'iins of two abandoned forts, (one of
which, however, was still in good condition,)
we reached, in 10 miles, Fort Lancaster,
tho trading vstitbiishment of Mr. Lupton.
His post was beginning to assume tho ap-
pearance of u ciunl'ortabTo farm : stock, hog.s,
and cattle, were ranging about on the prai-
rie ; there were dilferent kinds of poultry ;
and there was tho wreck of a promising
garden, in which a considerable variety of
vegetables had been in a flourishing condi-
tion, but it had been almost entirely ruined
by the recent high waters. I remained to
spend with him an agreeable hour, and set
off in a cold storm of rain, which was ac-
companied with violent thunder and light
ning. We encamped immediately on the
river, 16 miles from St. Vrain's. Several
Arapahoes, on their way to the village
which was encamped a few miles above us,
passed by the camp in the course of the
afi. noon. Night set in stormy and cold,
with heavy and continuous rain, which lasted
until morning.

July 7. — We made this morning an early
start, continuing to travel Ui) the Platte ;
and in a few miles frequent bands of horses
and mules, scattered for several miles round
about, indicated our approach to the Arapaho
village, which we found encamped in a beau-
tiful bottom, and consisting of about 160
lodges. It appeared extremely populous,
with a great number of children ; a circum-
stance which indicated a regular supply of
the means of subsistence. The chiefs, who
were gathered together at the farther end of
the village, received us (as probably stran-
gers are always received to whom they desire
to show respect or regard) by throwing their
arms around our necks and embracing us.

It required some skill in horsemanship to
keep the saddle during the performance of
this ceremony, as our American horses ex-
hibited for them the same fear they have for
a bear or any other wild animal. Having
very few goods with me, I was only able
to make them a meager present, accounting
for the poverty of the gift by explaining that
my goods had been left with the wagons in
charge of Mr. Fitzpatrick, who was well
known to them as the White Head, or the
Broken Hand. I saw here, as I had re-
marked in an Arapaho village the preceding
year, near the lodges of the chiefs, tall tri-
pods of white poles supporting their spears
and shields, which showed it to be a regular
custom.

Though disappointed in obtaining the
presents which had been evidently expected,
they behaved very courteously, and, after

■'•■.tvft,.

''.'•.''3

sfe.i2?

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAIIRATIVE.

[1841

a Utile conversation, I left them, and, con-
tinuing on up the river, halted to noon on
tho bluff, aa the bottrms lire almost inunda-
ted ; continuing in tht. aAernoon our route
along the mountains, which were dark,
ntiitty, and shrouded — threatening a storm ;
the snow peaks sometimes glittering through
llip clouds beyond the first ridge.

We surprised a grizzly bear sauntering
along the river ; which, raising himself upon
his hind legs, took a deli jerute survey of uh,
iliat did not appear very satisfactory to him,
and he scrambled into the river and swam
to the opposite side. VVe halted for the
night a little above Cherry creek ; the even-
ing cloudy, with many mosquitoes. Some
inditrerent observations placed the camp in
latitude 39^ 43' 53", and chronometrio lon-
gitude 106O 24' 34".

July 8. — We continued to-day to travel
up the Platte ; the morning pleasant, with a
prospect of fairer weather. During tho fore-
noon our way lay over a more broken coun-
try, with a gravelly and sandy surface ; al-
though the immediate bottom of the river
was a good soil, of a dark sandy mould, rest-
ing upon a stratum of large pebbles, or rolled
stones, rs at Laramie fork. On our right,
and apparently very near, but probably 6 or
10 miles distant, and two or three thousand
feet above us, ran the first range of the
mountains, like a dark corniced line, in clear
contrast with the great snowy chain which,
immediately beyond, rose glittering five
thousand feet abovo them. We caught this
morning a view of Pike's peak ; but it ap-
peared for a moment only, as clouds rose
early over the mountains, and shrouded them
in mist and rain all the day. In the first
range were visible, as at the Red Duttes on
the North fork, very lofty escarpments of
red rock. While travelling tlu-ough this
region, I remarked that always in the morn-
ing the lofty peaks were visible and bright,
but very soon small white clouds began to
settle around them — brewing thicker and
darker as the day advanced, until the after-
noon, when the thunder began to roll ; and
invariably at evening we had more or loss
of a thunder storm. At 11 o'clock, and 21
miles from St. Vrain's fort, we reached a
|)()int in this southern fork of the Platte,
where the stream is divided into three forks ;
two of these (one of them being much the
largest) issuing directly from the mountains
on the west, and forming, with the eastern-
most branch, a river of the plains. The
elevation of this point is about 5,500 feet
above the sea ; this river falling 2,800 feet
in a distance of 316 miles, to its junction
with the North fork of the Platte. In this
estimate, the elevation of the junction is
assumed as given by our barometrical ob-
BeiTations in 1842.

On the easternmost branch, up whioh Wk
took our way, we first came among tho

I)ino8 growing on the top of a very high
tank, and where we halted on it to noon ;
quaking asp {populiM trcmulnidea) was
mixed with the cotton-wood, and there were
excellent grass and rushes for tho animals.
During the morning there occurred many
beautiful flowers, whioh we had not hitherto
mot. Among them, the common blue flower-
ing flax made its first apiiearance ; and a tall
and handsome species nt gilioy with slender
scarlet flowers, which appeared yesterday
for tho first time, was very frequent to-day.
We had found very little game since
leaving tho fort, and provisions began to get
unpleasantly scant, as we had had no meat
for several days ; but towards sundown,
when we had already made up our minds to
sleep another night without supper, La-
jotincsse had the good fortune to kill a fine
deer, which he found feeding in a hollow
near by ; and as the rain began to fall,
threatening an unpleasant night, we hurried
to secure a comfortable camp in the timber.
To-night the camp fires, girdled with ap'
polas of fine venison, looked cheerful in
spite of the btormy weather.

July 9. — On account of the low state of
our provisions and the scarcity of game, I
determined to vary our route, and proceed
several camps to the eastward, in the hope
of falling in with the buflTalo. This route
along the dividing grounds between the
South fork of the Platte and the Arkansas,
would also afford some a ' "tional geograph-
ical information. This morning, thcrefonc,
wo turned to the eastward, along the upper
waters of tho stream on which we had en-
camped, entering a country of picturesque
and varied scenery ; broken into rocky hiils
of singular shapes ; little valleys, with pure
crystal water, here leaping swiftly along,
and there losing itself in tiie sands ; green
spots of luxuriant grass, flowers of all colors,
ind timber of difllerent kinds — every thing
to ^'i 3 it a varied beauty, except game. To
one of these remarkably shaped hills, hav-
ing on the summit a circular flat rock two
or three hundred yards in circumference,
some one gave the name of Poundcake,
which it has been permitted to retain, as our
hungry people seemed to think it a very
agreeable comparison. In the afternoon a
buffalo bull was killed, and we encamped on
a small stream, near the road which runs
from St. Vrain's fort to the Arkansat.

July 10. — Snow fell heavily on the moun-
tains during the night, and Pike's peak this
morning is luminous and grand, covered
from the summit, as low down as we can
see, with glittering white. Leaving the
encampment at 6 o'clock, we continued our
easterly course over a rolling oountryi neai

:iJf-^

[1841

hioh wk
>ng tho
ry high
nuon;
e.i) \vu
ro wore
nimalB.
(1 many
hithorlu
flower-
nd a tall
alonder
osterday
to-day.
le since
in to get
no meat
undown,
mindii to
)er, La-
in a fine
i. hollow
to fall,
) hurried
i timber,
with ap-
Berful in

1843.]

CAPr. FllKMONT'S NAIIHATIVK.

•I

to the high ridge*, which are generally
rough aud rocky, with u cnaritu coii^lomorato
dlMpliiyud in muMes, and covered with uineit.
TliiH ruck is very friiihlu, and it in undoubt-
edly from its deuonipoaition that tho prairioH
derivi) their sandy and gravelly formation.
In H miles wo crusHod a head water of the
Kioway river, on which wu found a strong
fort and cortil that had been built in the
•priiig, and halted to noon on tho principal
branch of tho river. During the morning
our niiile led over a dark vegetable mould,
mixod with sand and gravel, the character-
istic plant being esparcelte, {onobrychm sali-
va,) a Hpecios of clover which is much used
in certain parts of Germany for pasturage
of block — principally hogs. It is sown on
rocky waste ground, which would otherwise
be useless, and grows very luxuriantly, re-
quiring only a renewal of the seed about
once in fifteen years. Its ibundanco here
gveatly adds to the pastoral value of this re-
gion. A species of antennaria in flower
was very common along the line of road,
and tho creeks were timbered with willow
and pine. We encamped on li'jou's fork,
the water of which, unlike the clear streams
we had previously crossed, is of a whitish
color, and the soil of the bottom a very
hard, tough clay. There was a prairie dog
viiluge on the bottom, and, in the endeavor
to unearth one of the little animals, we la-
bored ineflfectually in the tough clay until
daik. After descending, with a slight in-
clination, until it had gone the depth of two
feet, the hole suddenly turned at a sharp
angle in another direction for one more foot
in depth, when it again turned, taking an
ascending direction to tho next nearest hole.
I have no doubt that all their little habita-
tions communicate with each other. The
greater part of the people were sick to-day,
and I was inclined to attribute their indis-
position to the meat of the bull which had
been killed the previous day.

July 11. — There were no indications of
buffalo having been recently in the neigh-
borhood ; and, unwilling to travel farther
eastward, I turned this morning to the
southward, up the valley of Bijou. Espar-
cette occurred universally, and among the
plants on the river I noticed, for the first
time during this journey, a few small bushes
of the absinthe of the voyageurs, which is
commonly used for fire-wood, {artemisia
tridentata.) Yesterday and to-day the road
has been ornamented with the showy bloom
of a beautiful lupinus, a characteristic in
many parts of the mountain region, on
which were generally great numbers of an
insect with very bright colors, (Htta vesica-
toria.)

As we were riding quietly along,- eagerly
searching every hollow in search of game

we discovered, at a little dintance in th«
prairie, a larg ^i'Azly bear, so buHJly on*
gaged in digging roulM that ho did not per-
ceive us until wo wore gnllopMi^ dowr. i
little lull tiiXy yards ft-oni him, wlicr. he
ehargoii upon us with siii^h sudden ficrgy,
that sevvnil of us came near lotting oiir Hiid-
dles. Hcing wounded, he coiiiiiiciii:«m1 re-
treating to a rocky piny ri<lgo lu; ir by,
from which we were not able to cut hii<i oil',
and we entered the tiinlxir with him. .''ho
way was very much hlookcd up with fuliiii
timber ; and we kept up a ruiiniii,'^ fight for
some time, animated by the hour (Oiiir^ing
among the horses, lie did ;;<)t full until
after he had received six rifie ballH. He
was miserably poor, and added nothing to
our stock of provisions.

We followed the stream to its head in a
broken ridge, which, according to tho ha-
rometer, was about 7,500 furt above the
N«>a. This is a piny elevation, into which
the prairies are gathered, and fr(mi which
the waters fi<»w, in almost ovory direction,
to tho Arkansas, I'latto, and Kaiisius rivers ;
the latter slrcam having here its remotest
sources. Although Hoinewh.it rocky and
broken, and covered with pines, in compari-
son with the neighboring mountains, it
scarcely forms an interruption to the great
pruirie plains which sweep up to their bases.

We had an excellent view of Pike's peak
from tiiis camp, at the distance of 40 miles.
This mountain barrier presents itself to
travellers on the plains, which sweep almost
directly to its bases — an immense and com-
paratively smooth and grassy prairie, in
very strong contrast with the black masses
of timber, and tho glittering snow above
them. With occasional exceptions, com-
paratively so very small as not to require
mention, these prairies are everywhere cov-
ered with a close and vigorous growth of a
great variety of grasses, among which the
most abundant is the buffalo grass, {sesleria
dactyloiats.) Between the Platte and Ar-
kansas rivers, that part of this region which
forms the basin drained by the waters of the
Kansas, with which our operations made us
more particularly acquainted, is based, upon
a formation of calcareous rocks. The soil
of all this country is excellent, admirably
adapted to agricultural pu ^oscs, and would
support a large agricultural and pastoral
population. A glance at the map, along our
several lines of travel, will show you that
this plain ia watered by many streams.
Throughout the western half of the plain,
these are shallow, with sandy beds, be-
coming deeper as they reach the richer
lands approaching the Missouri river ; they
generally have bottom lands, bordered by
blufifa varying from 50 to 500 feet in height.
In all this region the timber is entirely con-

' . ' vl

".' M

'>T<^

*: A

CAl»T. FUKMONTS NAUUATIVK.

[1843.

1843.)

I V"''

III i: ■

l;iW

AmA to lh« atreAmii. In tlin raHtorn halt',
wliorii iIm) noil in a (luop, rirli, vt<t{i<(ul>lii
mould, rrtontivo «it' rain and tiioiNtunt, it in
of vigorouH ((rowlli, uml ot' many (liiV«r«>nl
kinda ; and tlirouKliout the wi'ittiirn halt' it
ooniistH cntiruly ol' varioiiit Hpucioa uf cot-
ton-wood, which doMurvoa to lio called the
tree of tlio dttavrt — ({rowin({ in Handy mtiU,
whcru no othur troo uill t(row ; pointing out
the exUtonco of wator, and turniahing to tho
traveller fuul, and food lor hia aniniula. Add
to tliia, that the wcatorn border of thu plain
ia occupied Ity tliu Mioiix, Arapaho, and
Cheyenne nationa, and the I'uwnuea and
other half-civilized tribca in ita oaatern
limita, for whom the interinediuto country
is a wur-ffround, you will have a tolerably
correct idea of the appearance and condition
of the country. i)eacendiii(( a aoniewhat
precipitoun and rocky hillaide among the
pinca, which rarely appear elaewhere than
on the ridge, we encamped at ita foot, where
there were acverul springa, which you will
find laid down upon thu man as one of tho
•xtreme sources of thu Smoky Hill fork of
the Kanaas. From this ]>lace the view ex-
tended over the Arkanaus valley, and thu
Spaniah peaka in the aoulh beyond. As the
greater part of the men continued aick, I
encamj^ed here for tlie day, and ascertained
conclusively, from experiments on myaelf,
that their illness was caused by the meat
of the buHalo bull.

On the summit uf the ridge, near the
camp, were severrti rook-built forts, whiuh
in front were very difficult of approach, and
in tho rear were protected by a precipice
entirely beyond the reach of a rifle ball.
The evening was tolerably clear, with a
temperature at sunset of 63°. Elevation
of the camp 7,300 feet.

Turning the next day to the southwest,
we reached, in the course of the morning,
the wagon road to the settlements on the
Arkansas river, and encamped in the after-
noon on tho Fontaine-qm-bouit (or Boiling
Spring) river, where it was 50 feet wide,
with a swift current. I afterwards found
that the spring and river owe their names
to the bubbling of the eflfervescing gas in
the former, and not to the temperature of
the water, which is cold. During the morn-
ing a tall species of gilia, with a slender
white flower, was characteristic ; and, in
the latter part of the day, another variety
of esparcette, (wild clover,) having the
flower white, was equally so. We had a
fine sunset of golden brown ; and, in the
evening, a very bright moon, with the near
mountains, made a beautiful scene. Ther-
mometer, at sunset, was 60", and our eleva-
tion above the sea 5,800 feet.

July 13. — The morning was clear, with
a northwesterly breeze, and the thermome-

ter at aunriao nt 40 \ Thflfe WArn no clouds
along thfl mountmna, and thu morning aun
allowed very clearly their rugged charac-
ter.

Wu rcaumed our journey very early down
thu river, following an uxtremely good lodge
trail, which laaiiea by tho head of tliia alroain
iVom the bav<m Salade, a high moiuitain
valley behiinl I'ikn'a peak. The aoil along
the road wan aandy and gravelly, and the
river well timbered. Wu halted to noon
under thu ahade of some lino largo cotton-
wooda, our aniiiuila luxuriating on ruahcx,
{ri/uisi-tum htffinale,) which, along this riv-
er, were remarkably abundant. A variety
of caetua inadu ita appearance, and among
auveral strange planta were numuroua and
beautiful cluatura of a plant ru.ienibling mi-
nitiilui Ju/<i/)<i,wii\i a handaome convolvulua
I had not liithei'to aoen, (calyalr^ta.) In
the afternoon we paaaod near the rncamp-
nieiit of i>. hunter named Maurice, who had
been out into tho plains in pursuit of bufl'ulo
calves, a nuniber of which I aaw among
aome domestic cattle near hia lodgu. •Short-
ly afterward.>i, a party of iiiountaiiieora gal-
loped up to UH — tino-luoking and hardy men,
drt^jod in skins and mounted on good fat
horaca ; among thoin were several Connec-
ticut men, a portion of Wyeth's parly, whom
I had seen the year before, and otliera were
men from the western states.

Continuing down the river, we encamped
at noon on the 14th at its mouth, on the
Arkansas river. A short distance abovu
our encampment, on tho left bank of the
Arkansas, is a pueblo, (as the Mexicans call
their civilized Indian villages,) where a
number of mountaineers, who had married
Spanish women in the valley of Tuos, had
collected together, and occupied themselves
in farming, carrying on at the same time a
desultory Indian trade. They were princi-
pally Americans, and treated us with all thu
rude hospitality their situation admitted ;
but as all commercial intercourse with New
Mexico was now interrupted, in con8e(pience
of Mexican decrees to that elTect, there was
nothing to be had in the way of provisions.
They had, however, a fine slock of cattle,
and furnished us an abundance of excellent
milk. I learned here that Maxwell, in
company with two other men, had started
for Taos on the morning of the 0th, but
that he would probably fall iuto the handb
of th« Utah Indians, commonly called tho
Spanish Yutes. As Maxwell had no knowl-
edge of their being in the vicinity when he
crossed the Arkansas, his chance of escape
was very doubtful ; but I did not enter^aiM
much apprehension for his life, having great
confidence in his prudence and courage. I
was further informed that there had been a
popular tumult among the pueblos, or civil-

(1843.

1648.)

CAIT. I'll i:.M( J.N I'.S NAIiU.VTIVE.

vfii Iniliina, reai«liti(( iioar 'I'lum, nifHiiiKl
thi' " forftffutrM" of that plun-, in wliicli
llii'v )uiil |iluii(lnro(i thoir liouHiiit ami ill-
iriiitixl tlieir fuiiulina. Aiiioiik lliimu wIiom
l>i(i|M>rly had bueii doatroyod, wita Mr. liuuii-
hitn, liitlicr-in-law of Mitxwnll, from whom
I liikd uxpertcd to obtain aupplioa, and who
IkiiI li««i'n obliged to makn liia oacapfl tu
.S^inl.i I'Vt.

Hy thia poaitiun of aflaira, our expecta-
tion (if nblaininK aupplioa from I'aoa wua
(lit oil'. I tiiid hure llio aatiafaotioii to meet
iMir »(nnd biiflalo hunter of 184*J, Ohriato-
jihtT Ciiraon, whoao aervioca I coitaiderud
luvHcIf fortunate to acouro again ; and aa a
mnrorccmrnt of mulea wna ubaolutcly nn-
ci'MHury, I diiipatohod him immediately, with
ail account oi our neccaaitica, to Mr. ('harlea
Hi' ly, whoao principal post ia on the Arkan-
H&a river, about 75 iAiIoh holow Fontaine-
mi-houit. Ho waa directed to proceed
Irom that poat by the neareat route acroaa
the countrv, and meet mo with what ani-
rnali* ho ahould bo able to obtain at St.
Vraiii'a fort. I also admitted into the party
Charles Towna, a native of St. Louin, a
Hcrviccalilo man, with many of the qualitica
of a good voyaseur. According to our ob-
acrvatiuna, the latitude uf the mouth of the
river ia 38° 16' 93"; its longitude 104<-> 58'
30 " ; and its elevation above the sea 4,880
foct.

On the morning of the 10th, the time for
Maxwell's arrival having expired, we re-
Humod our Journey, leaving for him a note,
in which it waa stated that I would wait for
him at St. Vraiii'a fort until the morning of
the Sflth, in the event that he should suc-
ceed in his commission. Our direction was
up the Uoiling .Spring river, it being my in-
tention to visit the celebrated uprings from
which the river takes its name, and which
are on its upper waters, at the foot of Pike's
peak. Our animals fared well while we
were on this stream, there being every-
where a great abundance o( prele. I/wmea
leptophi/lla, in bloom, was a characteristic
plant along the river, generally in large
bunches, with two to five flowers on each.
Beautiful clusters of the plant resembling
mirabilis jalapa were numerous, and gly-
cyrrhiza lepiaota was a characteristic of
the bottoms. Currants nearly ripe were
abundant, and among the shrubs which cov-
ered the bottom was a very luxuriant growth
of chenopodiaceous shrubs, four to six feet
high.

On the afternoon of the 17th we entered
among the broken ridges at the foot of the
mountains, where the river made several
forks. Jjeaving the camp to follow slowly,
I rode ahead in the afternoon in search of
the springs. In the mean time, the clouds,
which had been gathered all the afternoon

nvvr the mountains, hrgtn tn roll downahnir
Midea ; and a atorni ao violent burat upon
■III', tliiit It app«'arcd I hud entered the atore-
houae of thci thimdor atorma. I I'onlinued,
however, to ride along up the rivi>r until
liliout aiinaot, and waa beginning to bu doubt-
ful of tlnding the Npriiiga bolore the next
day, when I oamo MiidJeiily upon a large
amooth rock iibont twenty yurda in diame-
ter, where the watrr fr(»m aevrral Hprinjra
waa bubbling and boiling up in the iiiulMt ol
a white incruNtatioa with which it had cov-
ered a portion of the rock. Aa thia did not
oorreM|)ond with a description given tiui l>y
the huiitora, 1 did not atop to tuMtn the wa-
ter, but, dismounting, wallted a little way up
the river, and, paaaing through a narrow
thicket uf shrubbery bordering the stream,
stepped directly upon a huge while rock, ut
the foot of which the river, already liccomti
a torrent, foamed along, broken by a small
fall. A deer which had been drinking at
the spring waa startled by my appt.mch,
and, apringing across the river, bounded otf
up the mountain. In the upper part of the
rock, which had apparently been furined by
deposition, was a beautiful white busiii, over-
hung by currant bushca, in which the cold
clear water bubbled up, kept in conatant
motion by the eacaping gas, and overflow-
ing the rock, which it had almost entirely
covered with a smooth crust of glistening
white. I had all day refrained from drink-
ing, reserving myself for the spring ; and
as I could not well be more wet than the
rain had already made me, I lay down by
the side of the basin, and drank heartily of
the delightful water. The spring is situ-
ated immediately at the foot of lofty moun-
tains, beautifully timbered, which sweep
closely round, shutting up the littlo valley
in a kind of cove. As it was beginning to
grow dark, I rode quickly down the river,
on which I found the camp a few miles
below.

The morning of the 18th was beautiful
and clear, and, all the people being anxious
to drink of these famous waters, we en-
camped immediately at the springs, and
spent there a very pleasant day. On the
opposite side of the river is another locality
of springs, which are entirely of the same
nature. The water has a very agreeable
taste, which Mr. Pr«u8S found very much
to resemble that of thi/amous Selter springs
in tiie grand duchy of Nassau, a country fa-
mous for wine and mineral waters ; and it
is almost entirely of the same character,
though still more agreeable than that of the
famous Bear springs, near Bear river of the
Great Salt lake. The following is an an-
alysis of an incrustation with which the wa-
ter had covered a piece of wood lying na
the rook :

■:M

r.(

I Mil

,:&

■K "'i!

ii;b

CAM'. KKKMONTS NAUHATIVK

111141

It:

I' ■ '

CarlNinatit of lima . .

. ou.ua

CarlHMiiitft III' miiKnAKJa .

l.'il

Hulphati! of liiiiK ^

Chloriilt) oi' I'ftlciutn > .

.03

Chloridu III' niUi(iM!iiia j

Milieu

l.flO

Vi'j/riiiliio niiiliiT . . .

.yo

Muiilura mti iuM . . .

. 4.(11

100.00

At 1 1 iiVliirk, when the ti'mprratiirtt iif fhi<
AT wan 73 ', that vf thr> wiiti>r in tlim wiih
WO.ft'' ; sum! lliiit ol llio iippiT i»|triiijr. whirli
iitiiiii'il iVitMi iliit (lilt rock, m«rn i'X|miih'iI
to ihc HUM, will (11) \ Ai »iinHi't, wlii'n llm
tointiflriiturn of llin air wan fl(J ', that of
tho lower a|irin((» wan fl8'->, ami that of the
iippur (M '.

Jiili/ 10. — .V heaiitifiil nn<l rli'ar ninrnini;,
withasliKht iirei-ti' from Um noiihwi'Ht; th«
toniporatiiriMif ihnair at NiiiiriHi> liciiin .'»7.r/\
At this time tho tempfrnliire of the lower
■prinK was 57. H^^, and that of tho upper fi I.H '.

The trees in the neijfhhorliooil were liireh,
willow, pine, and an oak resemhliim i/m r-
ruM alfift. In the shrnhhery alon^ the river
are eurr.int hiiKheti, (n/if.i,) of which the
fruit lian a itinfrular piny flavor ; and on the
mountain Hide, in a rod gravelly Koil, is n
rsrnarkalile conifnrous tree, (perhaps an
aliir.t,) haviiif^ tho leaves HiM^ularly lon^,
broad, and scattered, with hiiMJics of .'<j>trit(i
ariafolin. IJy our observations, this place
is fl,350 feet above tho sea, in latitude 38^
fi9' 10", and lon(;itiide lOSO 32' '15"

Ueaumiu); our journey on this morning;,
wo descended the river, in order to reach
tho iiiniilh of tho eai^tern fork, which I prn-
jiosed to ascend. Tho left bank of the river
iicre is very much broken. There is n hand-
some little bottom on the ri);ht, and both
banks are exceedingly ]>teluresqiie — strata
of red rock, in nearly perpendicular walls,
crossing the valley from north to south.
About three miles below the springs, on the
right bank of tho river, is a nearly perpen-
dicular limestone rock, presenting a uni-
formly unbroken surface, twenty to forty
feet high, containing very great numbers of
a large univalve shell, which appears to he-
loiig to tho genus inoceramua.

In contact with this, to the westward,
was another stratum of limestone, contain-
ing fossil shells of a .different character ;
and still higher up on the stream were par-
allel strata, consisting of a compact some-
what crystullino limestone, and argillaceous
bituminous limestone in thin layers. Dur-
ing the morning, we travelled up the east-
ern fork of the Fontairie-qui-bouit rirer, our
road being roughened by frequent deep gul-
liea timbered with pine, and halted to noon
on a small branch of this stream, timbered
principally with tho narrow-leaved cotton-

wiMid, {futfmluM an/fUMlt/olut,) called by ihi
('■nadian* Imnt nm^rr. On a hill, near hy
wnr« two remarkitbln columns of a grayiiih
white eonglomeratn roek, imn of which wn^
about twenty fuel high, and two fnt in di
ametnr. They are ■urmniinted by ulalm of
a dark ferruirinniis eiinglotnerate, furininif
black ca|xt, and adding very much to ilieir
columnar eti'ect at a ilmtaneo. Thin riieli
is very destructible by thn action of tin'
weather, and thn hill, of which they for-
merly eonstitutnd apart, is entirely aliraded

A ahaft of the gun carriage wan broketi
III the ufteriioon ; and we made nn early
halt, the stream being Irom twelve to twen-
ty feet wide, with clear water. As usual,
tfie cIoikIn had gathered to a nlorm over
the nioiintainM,aiid wo had a shnwery even-
ing. At sunset the thermometer stood at
(CJ ', and our elevation uImivo the sea was
0,030 fei t.

Jtili/ 'JO. — Thia morning (as we gnnorally
found (he mornings under tneao mountains*
was very clear and beautiful, and tho ait
cool and pleasant, with the thermometer at
14". Wo continued our march up thn
stream, along a green sloping bottom, be-
tween pino hills on tho one hand, and the
main lllaek bills on tho other, towards the
ridge which separates the waters of the
I'hitte from those of the Arkansas. As wu
a|ijiroaclied the dividing ridge, the whole
valley was radiant with (lowera ; blue, yel-
low, pink, white, scarlet, and purple, vied
with each other in splendor. K^parcetto
was Olio of the highly characteristic plaiiti*.
and a bright-looking flower (gmtlardin
arislata) was very frequent ; but the mo.<vt
abundant plant along our road to-day, w:i.s
geranium maculatum, which is tho charac-
teristic plant on this portion of the dividing'
grounds. Crossing to the waters of the
Platte, fields of bluo flax added to tho mag-
nificencn of this mountain garden ; this was
occasionally four feet in height, which was
a luxuriance of growth that I rarely saw
this almost universal plant attain throughout
the iourncy. Continuing down a branch of
the riattc, among high and very steep tim-
bered hills, covered with fragments ot rock,
towards evening we issued from the piny
region, and made a late eneanipment near
Poundcake rock, on that fork of the river
which we had ascended on the 8th of July.
Our animals enjoyed the abundant rushi .>
this evening, as the flies were so bad amon;,'
the pines that they had been much harassed.
A deer was killed hero this evening ; and
again the evening was overcast, and a col-
lection of brilliant red clouds in the west
was followed by the customary squall of rail.

Achillea millefolium (milfoil) was among

the characteristic plants of the river hot-

I toms to-day. This was one of the moat

«(k

•♦■. *^

»#

(It4l

1813 I

CAPT. ntK.MONT.M NAIIRATIVK

lli'il hy Ihi

II, riiMir hv

' II (rrityinh

winch WIl^

I'l't't III i||.

by MJitlia III'

I', rnrininu

li lo thttir

'I'liiN rock

mil lit' lli>'

I tlii'y (or-

ly iitirailMil.

wiiM broken

n nil rarly

irtt to twoii-

An iinuiil,

itortii uvf<r

wnry nrcn-

nr Htiiod n(

M tita wa«

(^nnnrally
nioiintainNl
in<l tho ait
inornutor at

vU up till!

iiottom, bo-
nd, niid till'
owurdn thi'
era of the
IS. An wu

th«i whok'

blue, yel-

purple, vjpil

Kpj'orcette
iHtic plantR.

(gnillardvt
it tho moM
to-day, wii«
the charnc-
,he dividing'
tern of the
to the inag-
n; this was

which was
rarely saw

throughout
a brunch of
f steep tini-

floiiimon pUnUi during the wlmln oC our
^luriM'v, occurring tn uIiiionI i<>i*ry vnrii'iy
III' MdMiiion. I iioIicikI It oil lliii IowIiiihIm
of till' iiviTM, iii*ar till) coiiat ol' tb«t I'uinlli',
;tn<l iM'iir to the miow miiutig llio iiiuiiiitaiiiN
of the .Nurnn Ntiuida,

|)uriii(r tills flxeursion, wo had surveynd
m list bi'iid oiiu of the two principiil briiiicheN
ol' iIk' upper ArkanMiiH, 75 iiiil''N in |i'ii|{tli,
iind I'litirt'ly ev»iiipl«ted our mirvcy of the
Sttiitli fork of the Platte, to tliii exlreine
Nuurci'M of that portion of the river which
heloii^N lo the plains, and heads in the bro-
ken hilU of the Arkansas dividiiiif rid^e, at
ihf loitt of the iiiountaiiiB. 'I'hat portion of
UN witters which were collected aiiiong tlieH<.>
iniMiiilainN, it wiih hoped to explore un uur
lioineward voya({e.

ItiacliiiiK St. Vrain's fort f»n the morntnff
of tliii "I'', we found Mr. Filzpatrick and
liiN piirty in ({ood order and excellent health,
mill my true and relialile frtenil, KiK'aiMMi,
wlio hud brought with hiin ten i^oml inuleN,
witli the neeeHsary pack-HuddloH. Mr.
rit/.|iiilrii'k, who hud often endured every
I'Xtii'inity of want during the course of Iiih
uioiiiitiiin life, and knew well the value of
|iroviNioiiH 111 this country, had watched over
iiiir Htiick with JealouN vigilance, and them
wuH ail abundance of llour, rice, BU(rar, and
culfec, lu ihe camp ; and again we fared
iuxuri' ' "'•• Meat was, however, very
HCiirce ; uiid two very Hiiiall pigs, which we
obtained at tho fort, did not go far among
forty men. Mr. Fitzpatrick had been here
n wei'lt, during which time his men had
been iiceu|iied in refitting tho camp ; and
the repoHc had been very beneficial to Imm
anini.'ilM, which were now in tidorably good
etiniliiion.

1 had been able to obtain no certain in-
rormatioii in regard to the character of the
paNsea in this portion of the Ilorky moun-
tain range, which had always hccn repie-
sented as impracticable for' carriages, but
tho exploration of which was incidentally
contemplated by my instructions, with tlie
view of finding Bunio convenient point of
passage fur the road of emigration, which
would enable it to reach, on a more direct
lino, the usual ford of tho CJreat Colorado —
a place considered as determined by the na-
ture of the country beyond that river. It is
singular, that immediately at the foot of the
mountains, I could find no one sufliciently
acquainted with them to guide us to the
plains at their western base ; but tho race
of trappers, wh« formerly lived in their ro-
eesises, has almost entirely disappeared —
dwindled to a few scattered individuals —
some one or two of whom are regularly
killed in the course of each year by the In-
dians. You will remember, that in the pre-
Tious year I brought with me to their village

near tlii« |hini, and ho«punMy irmlnd on th«
way, Neveral ('lieyeiinif IndiaiiN, wlnun I had
■net on llie Lownr I'liitte. .Shorily :i|\«r
their arrival here, tlieite were out wiili a
party of Indiana, (tliuiiiaulvea the prii)ci))al
men,) which diaeovnrpd a few IrupjH'ra in
the iiei^lilioring iiiouiituina, whom they im-
mediately miiriiered, altlioiigh lum of tbein
bad been nearly thirty yeara iii the eoiintry,
and waa perfectly well known, aa he hud
grown gray umong tli«m.

'rhriHigh tilt., portion of tho inoniitains,
alao, are the cuatomary roada of the war
parties going out agaiiiat the lliuli and
SlioahoniMt Indians; and oci^aaionally par-
ties from the (7row nation make their way
(low n to the southward along tliiH chain, in the
exiiectation of surpriaing aomo straggling
lotfgea of their enemii*N. Shortly before our
arrival, one of their parties hud attacked an
.\rapalio village in tlie vicinity, which th»iy
bad found unexpectedly stronir ; and their
aNNaiilt was turned into a rapid Might and a
hot pursuit, in which they had been eom-
pi'lled to abandon the animals they had rode,
and escape on their war horses.

Into this uncertain and dangerous region,
Hiiiall parties of three or four trappern, who
now could collect together, rarely ventured ;
and conseipicntly it was seldom visited and
little known. Having determined to try
the jiassage by a puss through u stiiir of the
mountains made iiy the Cdc/ie-d-la-I'oitdre
river, which rises in the high bed of moun-
tains around Long's peak, 1 thought it ad-
visablfl to avoid any encumbrance which
would occasion detention, and accordingly
•.ijfinn separated the party into two diviNion«
—one ul which, under tho command of Mr.
Kitzpatrick, was directed to cross the plains
to the mouth of Laramie river, oud, continu-
ing thence its route along the usual emi-
grant road, meet me at I'ort Hull, a post
ticlongiiig to tho Hudson Uay (<oinpany,
and situuted on Snuko river, us it is com-
monly called in tho Oregon Territory, al-
though better known to us as Lewis's fork
of the (.'olumbia. The latter name is there
restricted to one t>f the upper forks uf tliu
river.

Our DeluHure Indians having determined
to return to their homos, it became necLssa-
ry to provide this party with a good hunter ;
and I accordingly engaged in that capacity
Alexander Codey, a young man about 95
yeurs of age, who hud been in this country
six or seven years, all of which time liad
been actively employed in hunting for the
support of the posts, or in solitary trading
expeditions among the Indians. In courago
and professional skill he was a formidable
rival to Carson, and constantly afterwards
was among tho best and most efficient of
the party, and in difficult situations was of

••J
■'.ft

■ '^

ii-» '

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1841

,1 ''v

•:!7

^l-;.

incalculable value. Hiram Powers, one
of thfi men belonging to Mr. P^i'zpatrick's
party, was (lischanred at this place.

A French engage, at Lupton's fort, had
been shot in the back on the 4th of July,
and died during our absence to the Arkan-
sas. The wife of the murdered man, an
Indian woman of the Snake nation, desirous,
like Naomi of old, to retur to her people,
requested and obtained permission to travel
with my party to the neighborhood of Hear
river, where she ^xpected to meet with
some of their villages. Happier than the
Jewish widow, she carried with her two
children, pretty little half-breeds, who added
much to the liveliness of the camp Her
baggage was carried on five or six pack
horses ; and I gave her a small tent, for
which I no longer had any use, as I had
procured a lov' 'e at the fort.

For my own party I selected the follow-
ing men, a number of whom old issociations
rendered (reeable to me :

Charles Preuss, Christopher Carson, Ba-
sil Lajeuiiesse, Francois Badeau, J. 13. Ber-
nier, Louis Menard, Raphael Proue, Jacob
Dodson, Louis Zindel, Henry Leo, J. B.
Derosicr, Fran(;ois Lajeuncsse, and Augustc
Vasquez.

By observation, the latitude of the post is
40O 16' 33", • nd its longitude 105° 12' ??3",
depending, with all the other longitudes
along this portion of ♦be lino, upon a subse-
quent occultation of September 13, 1843, to
which they are referred by the chronome-
ter. Its distance from Kansas landing, by
the road we travelled, (which, it will be re-
membered, was very winding along the
lower Kansas river,) was 750 miles. The
rate of the chronometer, determined by ob-
servations at this place for the interval of
our absence, during this month, was 33.72",
which you will hereafter see did not sensi-
bly change duning the ensuing month, and
renaiiieti nearly constant during the re-
mainder of our journey across the continent.
This was the rate used in referring to St.
Vrain's fort, the longitude between that
place and the mouth of the Fontaine-qui-
bouit.

Our various barometrical observations,
which are better worthy of confidence than
ihe isolated determination of 1842, give, for
the elevation of the fort above the sea, 4,930
feet. The baromete.' here used was also a
better one, and less liable to derangement.

At the end of two days, which was allow-
ed to my animals for necessary repose, all
the arrangements had been completed, and
an the afternoon of the 26th we resumed our
jrespective routes. Some little trouble was
experienced in crossing the Platte, the wa-
ters of which were still kept up by rains and
meltiDg snow ; and having travelled only

about four miles, wj encamped in the even-
ing on Thompson's creek, where we were
very much disturbed by mosquitoes.

Ihe following days we continued our
march westward iver comparative plains,
and, fording the Ci'iohc-i-la-Poudre on thu
morning of the 28th, entered the Black hills,
nnd nooncd on this stream in the mountains
beyond them. Passing over a fine large
bottom in the afternoon, we reached a place
where the river was shut u)» in the hills ,
and, ascending a ravine, made a laborious
:.nd very difficult passage around by a gap,
striking the river again about dusk. A littlfa
labor, howe.er, would remove this diffi-
culty, and renler the road *.o this point a
very excellen': one. The evening closed
in dark with ruin, and the mountains looked
gloomy.

July 29. — Leaving our encampment about
7 in the morning, we travelled until 3 in the
afternoon along the river, which, for this
distance of about six miles, runs directly
through a spur of the main mountains.

We were compelled by the nature of the
ground to cross the river eight or nine times,
at difficult, deep, and rocky fords, the stream
running with great force, swollen by the
rains — a true mountain torrent, only forty
or fifty feet wide. It was a mountain valley
of the narrowest kind — almost a chasm «
and the scenery very wild and beautiful.
Towering mountains rose round about ; their
sides sometimes dark with forests of pine,
and sometimes with lofty precipices, washed
by the river ; while below, as if they in-
demnified themselves in luxuriance for the
scant) space, the green river bottom was
covered with a wilderness of flowers, theii
taU spikes sometimes rising above our heads
as We rode among them. A profusion of
blossom^ on a white flowering vine, {clema-
tis lasianthi,) which was abundant along the
river, contrasted handsomely with the green
foliage of the trees. The mountain appear-
ed to be composed of a greenish gray and
red granite, which in &ome places appeared
to be in a state of decomposition, making a
red son.

The stream was wooded with cotton-
wood, box-elder, and cherry, with curraat
and serviceberry bushes. After a some-
what laborious day, during which it had
rained incessantly, we encamped near the
end of the pass at the : >uth of a small
creek, in sight of the great Laramie plains.
It continued to rain heavily, and at evening
the mountains were hid in mists ; but there
was no lack of wood, and the large fires we
made to dry our clothes were very comfort-
able ; and si night the hunters came in with
a fine deer. Rough and difficult as we found
the pass to-day, an excellent road may be
made with a little labor. Elevation of thi

1643]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAURATIVE.

le even-
^e were

ued oar

])lain8,

un tlui
ick liilUt
ouiitaina
lie large
d a place
le hills ,
laborious

y a gar.
A littlb

his diffi-
point a
g closed
IS looked

ent about
il 3 in the
for this
s directly
lins.

ire of the
ine times,
the stream
en by the
only forty
;ain valley
a chasm t
beautiful.
)out ; theii
ts of pine,
es, washed
;f they in-
ice for the
lottom was
iwers, theii
e our heads
refusion of
,nc, (clema-
nt along the
;hthe green
;ain appear-
sh gray and
es appeared
n, making a

vith cotton-
vhh currant
er a some-
■hich it had
led near the
h of a smaV.
•amie plains,
d at evening
s ; but there
arge fires we
rery comfort-
came in with
t as we found
road may be
ration of thi

camp 6,540 feet, and distance from St.
V rain's fort 56 miles.

Jiiii/ 30. — The day was bright aofain ; the
thermometer at sunrise 5^^^ ; and leaving
311 r encampment at 8 o'clock, in about half
A mile we crossed the Cdche-a-la-Poudre
river for the last time ; and, entering a
iiniodiiier country, we travelled along a kind
oi vallon, bounded on the right by red buttes
iiiid precipices, while to the left a high roll-
ing country extended to a range of the
Black hills, beyond which rose the great
mountains around Long's peak.

Hy the great quantity of tinow visible
among tliem, it had probi.bly snowed heavily
there the prt vious day, v/iiile it had rained
on us in the valley.

We halted at noon on a small branch ;
and in the afternoon travelled over a high
country, gradually ascending towards a
range of buttes, or high hills covered with
pines, which forms the dividing ridge be-
tween the waters we had left and those of
Jiaiamie river.

Late in the evening we encamped at a
s|)ringofcold water, near the summit of the
ndjie, having inf;.,.ised our elevation to
7,520 teet. During the day we had travel-
loij 24 miles. By some indifferent observa-
tion-:, our latitude is 41^ 02' 19". A spe-
ci of hedeome was characteristic along the
\\ hole day's route.

l']nierging from the mountains, we enter-
ed a region of bright, fair weather. In my
t;xi)erience in this country, I was forcibly
impressed with the different character of
the climate on opposite sides of the Rocky
mountain range. The vast prairie plain on
ilio east is like the ocean ; the rain and
clouds from the constantly evaporating snow
(if the mountains rushing down into the heat-
ed air of the plains, on which you will have
occasion to remark the frequent storms of
rain we encountered during our journey.

July 31. — The morning was clear ; tem-
perature 480 A fine rolling road, among
|)iny and grassy hills, brought us this morn-
ing into a large trail where an Indian vil-
lage had recently passed. The weather
was pleasant and cool ; we were disturbed
by neither mosquitoes nor flies ; and the
country was certainly extremely beautiful.
The slopes and broad ravines were abso-
lutely covered with fields of flowers of the
most exquisitely beautiful colors. Among
those which had not hitherto made their ap-
pearance, and which here were characteris-
Lio, wiis a new delphinium, of a green pnd
lustrous metallic blue color, mingled with
compact fields of several bright-coloxed va-
rieties of astragalus, which were crowded
together in splendid profusion. This trail
conducted us through a remarkable defile,
to a little timbered creek, up which we

wound our way, passing by a singular and
massive wall of dark-red granite. The
formation of the country is a red feMspathic
granite, overlying a decomposing mass of
the same rock, forming the soil of all this
region, which everywhere is rod and grav-
elly, and appears to be of a great tlural fer-
lii>v_,.

As we emerged on a small trii)utary of
the Laramie river, coming in sight of its
principal stream, the flora became perfectly
magnificent ; and we congratulated our-
selves, as we rode along our pleasant road,
that we had substituted this for the uninter-
esting country between Lanamie hills and
the Sweet Water valley. We had no meat
for supper last night or breakfast this morn-
ing, and were glad to see Carson come in
at noon with a good antelope.

A merid m observation of the sun placed
us in latitude 41° 04' 00". In the evening
we encamped on the Laramie river, which
is here very thinly timbered with scattered
groups of cotton-wood at considerable inter-
vals. From our camp, we are able to dis-
tinguish the gorges, in which are the suurcot-
of ('Ache-Ji-la-Poudre and Laramie rivers ;
and the Medicine Bow mountain, towards
the point of which we are directinif our
course this afternc m, has been in sight the
greater part of the day. By observ-itioii
the latitude was 41° 15' 02", and longitude
106O 16' 54". The same beautiful tlora
continued till about four in the afternoon,
when it suddenly disappeared, with the red
soil, which became sandy and of a whilish-
gray color. The evening was tolerably
clear ; temperature at sunset 64o. The
day's journey was 30 miles.

August 1. — The morning was calm iind
clear, with sunrise temperature at 42°. We
travelled to-day jver a plain, or open roll-
ing country, at the foot of the Medicine
Bow mountain ; the soil in the morning be-
ing sandy, with fragments of rock abun-
dant ; and in the afternoon, when we ap-
proached closer to the mountain, so stony
that we made but little way. The beautiful
plants of yesterday reappeared occasional-
ly ; flax in bloom occurred during the morn-
ing, and esparcette in luxuriant abundance
was a characteristic of the stony ground in
the afternoon. The camp was roused into
a little excitement by a chase after a buffa-
lo bull, and an encounter with a war party
of Sioux and Cheyenne Indians about 30
strong. Hares and antelope were seen du-
ring the day, and one of the latter was
killed. The Laramie peak was in sight
this afternoon. The evening was clear,
with scattered clouds : temperature 63<3.
The day's journey was 26 miles.

August 2. — Temperature at sunrise 530,
and scenery and weather made our road t«-

■\W

' AT
.'ft

•'Jii

CAPT. FHIIMONTS NARRATlVlii.

L184S.

dsy delightful. The neighboring inouiitixin
is thici<ly studded with pines, intenningied
with the brighter ibiiagu of aspens, and
occaaional spots liiio iuwns butwucii the
patches of snow among the pines, and iiurc
and tliure on tiie iieigiits. Our route below
lay over a comparative plain, covered with
the sanio brilliant vegetation, and the day
was cloi<r and pleasuMtly cool. During tlio
morning, wu crossed nany streams, clear
and rocky, and broad grassy valleys, of a
strong black soil, washed down from the
mountuiiiH, and producing excellent pastu-
rage. Theao were timbered with the red
willow and long-loaved cotton-wood, min-
gled with aspen, as we ajjproached the
mountain more nearly towards noon. Ds-
parcette was a characteristic, and flax oc-
curred frequently in bloom. We halted at
noon on the most western fork of Laramie
river — a handsome stream about sixty feet
wide and two feet deep, with clear water
and a owift current, over a bed composed
entirely of boulders or roll stones. Tiiere
was a large open bottom here, on which
were many lodge pules lying about ; and in
the edge of the surrounding timber were
three strong forts, that appeared to have
been recently occupied. At this place I
became fust acquainted with the yampah,
{unethum graveolens,) which I found our
Snake woman engaged in digging in the
low timbered bottom of the creek. Among
the Indians along the Rocky mountains, and
more particularly among the Shoshonee or
Snake Indians, in whose territory it is very
abundant, this is considered the best among
the roots used for food. To us it was an
interesting plant — a little link between the
savage and civilized life. Here, among the
Indians, its root is a common article of food,
which they take pleasure in offering to
strangers ; while with us, in a considerable
portion of America and Europe, the seeds
are used to flavor soup. It grows more
abundantly, and in greater luxuriance, on
one of the neighboring tributaries of the
Colorado than in any other part of this re-
gion ; and on that stream, to which the
Snakes are accustomed to resort every year
to procure a supply of their favorite plant,
they have bestowed the name of Yampah
river. Among the trappers, it is generally
known as Little Snake river; but in this
and other instances, where it illustrated the
history of the people inhabiting the country,
I have preferred to retain on the map the
aboriginal name. By a meridional obser-
vation, the latitude is 41° 45' 59".

In the afternoon we took our way direct-
ly across the spurs from the point of the
mountain, where we had several ridges to
cross ; and, although the road was not ren-
dered bad by the nature of the ground, it

was made extiemely rough by the stiff
tough bushes of artemisia triderJata,* in
this country commonly called sago.

This shrub now began to make its ap-
pearance in compact fields; and y^o were
about to quit for a long time this country uf
excellent pasturage and brilliant flowers.
Ten or twelve buH'alo bulls were seen dur-
ing the afternoon ; and we were surprised
by the appearance of a large red ox. We
gathered around him as if he had been an
(dd acquaintance, with all our domestic feel-
uigs as much awakened as if we had come in
sight of an old farm house. He had j)roba-
biy made his escape from some party of
emigrants on Green river ; and, with a vivid
remembrance of some old green field, he
was pursuing the straightest course for the
frontier that the country admitted. We
carried him along with us as a prize ; and,
when it was found in the morning that he
had wandered off, I would not let him be
pursued, for I would rather have gone
through a starving time of three entire days,
than let him be killed after he had success-
fully run the gauntlet so far among the In
dians. I have been told by Mr. Bcnfy
people of an ox born and raised at St.
V rain's fort, which made his escape from
them at Elm grove, near the frontier, hav-
ing come in that year with the wagons.
They were on their way out, and saw occa-
sionally places where he had eaten and lain
down to rest ; but did not see him for about
700 miles, when they overtook him on the
road, travelling along to the fort, having
unaccountably escaped Indians and every
other mischance.

We encamped at evening on the princi-
pal fork of Medicine Bow river, near to an
isolated mountain called the Medicine Butte,
which appeared to be about 1,800 feet above
the plain, from which it rises abruptly, and
was still white, nearly to its base, with a
great quantity of snow. The streams were
timbered with the long-leaved cotton-wood
and red willow ; and during the afternoon a
species of onion was very abundant. I ob-
tained here an immersion of the first satel-
lite of Jupiter, which, corresponding very
nearly with the chronometer, placed us in
longitude 106o 47' 25". The latitude, by
observation, was 41° 37' 16"; elevation
above the sea, 7,800 feet, and distance from
St. Vrain's fort, 147 miles.

August 3. — There was a white frost last
night ; the morning is clear and cool. Wo

• The greater portion of our subsequent jour-
ney was through a region where this shrub con-
stituted the tree of the country ; and, as it will
often be mentioned in occasional descriptions,
the word artemina only will be used, without
the specific name.

■M

II84S.

1843]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAHUATIVK.

come II)
proba-
party ol'
h II vivid
/ieltl, he
for the
i. We
e ; and,
that he
it him be

were early on the road, having; breakfasted
before sunrise, and in a few miles travel
entered the pass of the Medicine Butte,
through which led a broad trail, which had
t)(;iMi fcconlly travelled by a very largo par-
ty. Immediately in the pass, the road was
liroken by ravines, and we were obliged to
clear a way through groves of aspens, which
iji'iierally made their appearance when we
rciiclied cLvated regions. According to the
barometer, this was 8.300 feet ; and while
wc were detained in opening a road, I ob-
mincd a meridional observation of the sun,
which gave 41° 35' 48" for the latitude of
the pass. The Medicine Butte is isolated
by a small tributary of the North fork of the
Platte, but the mountains approach each
other very nearly ; the stream running at
their feet. On the south they are smooth,
with occasional streaks of pine ; but the
butte itself is ragged, with escarpments of
red feldspathic granite, and dark with pines ;
the snow reaching from the summit to within
a few hundred feet of the trail. The gran-
ite here was more compact and durable than
that in the formation which we had passed
tlirough a few days before to the eastward
of Laramie. Continuing our way over a
plain on the west side of the pass, where
the road was terribly rough with artemisia,
we made our evening encampment on the
cieok, where it took a northern direction,
unfavorable to the course we were pursu-
ing. Bands of buffalo were discovered as
we came down upon the plain ; and Carson
Itrought into the camp a cow which had the
fat on the fleece two inches thick. Even
in this country of rich pasturage and abun-
dant game, it is rare that the hunter chances
upon a finer animal. Our voyage had al-
ready been long, but this was the first good
bnftalo meat we had obtained. We travel-
led to-day 26 miles.

August 4. — The morning was clear and
calm ; and, leaving the creek, we travelled
towards the North fork of the Platte, over
a plain which was rendered rough and
broken by ravines. With the exception of
h-onio thin grasses, the sandy soil here was
occupied almost exclusively by artemisia,
with its usual turpentine odor. We had ex-
pected to meet with some difficulty in cross-
ing the river, but happened to strike it
where there was a very excellent ford, and
inilted to noon on the left bank, 200 miles
from St. Vrain's fort. The hunters brought
in pack animals loaded with fine meat. Ac-
cording to our imperfect knowledge of the
country, there should have been a small af-
fluent to this stream a few miles higher up ;
and in the afternoon we continued our way
among the river hills, in the expectation of
encamping upon it in the evening. The
ground proved to be so exceedingly diffi-

cult, broken up into hills, terminating in es-
carpments and broad ravines, 500 or 600
feet deep, witii sides so precipitous that we
could scarcely find a place to descend, that,
towards sunset, I turned directly in towards
the river, and, after nightfall, entered a sort
of ravine. We were obliged to feel our
way, and clear a road in the darkness ; the
surface being much broken, and the jiro-
gress of the carriages being greatly ob-
structed by the artemisia, which had a luxu-
riant growth of four to six feet in height.
We had scrambled along this gully for sev-
eral hours, during which we had knocked
off the carriage lamps, broken a thermome-
ter and several small articles, when, fear-
ing to lose something of more importance,
I halted for the night at 10 o'clock. Our
animals were turned down towards the riv-
er, that they might pick up what little
grass they could find; and after a little
search, some water was found in a small
ravine, and improved by digging. We light-
ed up the ravine with fires of artemisia, and
about midnight sat down to a supper which
we were hungry enough to find delightful —
although the buffalo meat was crusted with
sand, and the coflTee was bitter with the
wormwood taste of the artemisia leaves.

A successful day's hunt had kept our
hunters occupied until late, and they slept
out, but rejoined us at daybreak, when,
finding ourselves only about a mile from the
river, we followed the ravine down, and
camped in a cotton-wood grove on a beauti-
ful grassy bottom, where our animals in-
demnified themselves for the scanty fare of
the past night. It was quite a pretty and
pleasant place ; a narrow strip of prairie
about five hundred yards long terminated at
the ravine where we entered by high precip-
itous hills closing in upon the river, and
at the upper end by a ridge of low rolling
hills.

In the precipitous bluffs were displayeil a
succession of strata containing fo.ssil vege-
table remains, and several beds of coal. In
some of the beds the coal did not appear to
be perfectly mineralized ; and in some of
the seams, it was compact and remarkably
lustrous. In these latter places there wete
also thin layers of a very fine white salt.s,
in powder. As we had a large supply of
meat in the camp, which it was necessary
to dry, and the surrounding country appear-
ed to be well stocked with buffalo, which it
was probable, after a day or two, we would
not see again until onr return to the Missis-
sippi waters, I determined to mske here a
provision of dried meat, which would be ne-
cessary for our subsistence in the region we
were about entering, which was said to be
nearly destitute of game. Scafll'olds were
accordingly soon erected, fires made, and

^1
I

'..V,

V<^i

■'V ■J.f

■Mf>

m
m

CAl'T. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1813.

':0

ail, :

;i''".!!!i

the mtMi out into titin hiioes to bo driod ;
and all were busily occupied, when the camp
was thrown into a sudden tumult, iiy a
chari{c from about 70 mounti'd Indians, ovor
the low bills at th»; upper rn<l of tbo little
bottom. Fortunately, the Ruard, who was
between them and our animals, bad caufjht
a glimpse of an Indian'n head, as bo raised
himself in bis stirrups to look over the bill,
a moment before be made the charge ; and
Buceeeded in turning the band into the camp,
as the Indians charged into the bottom with
the usual yell. Hefore they reached us, the
grove on tbo verge of the little bottom was
occupied by our people, and the Indians
brought to a sudden halt, which they made
in tiiiie to save themselves from a howitzer
shot, which would undoubtedly have been
very effective in such a compact body ; and
further proceedings were interrupted by
their signs for peace. They proved to be a
war party of Arapabo and Cheyenne In-
dians, and informed us that they had charged
upon the camp under the belief that we were
hostile Indians, and had discovered their
mistake only at the moment of the attack
— an excuse which policy required us to re-
ceive as true, though under the full convic-
tion that the display of our little howitzer,
and our favorable position in the grove, cer-
tainly saved our horses, and probably our-
selves, from their marauding intentions.
They had been on a war party, and had
been defeated, and were consequently in the
state of mind which aggravates their innate
thirst for plunder and blood. Their excuse,
however, was taken in good part, and the
usual evidences of friendship interchanged.
The pipe went round, provisions were
spread, and the tobacco and goods furnished
the customary presents, which they look
for even from traders, and much more from
government authorities.

Th(!y were returning from an expedition
against the Shoshonee Indians, one of whose
villages they had surprised, at Bridger's
fort, on Ham's fork of Green river, (in the
absence of the men, who were engaged in
an antelope surround,) and succeeded in
carrying off their horses and taking several
scalps. News of the attack reached the
Snakes immediately, who pursued and
overtook them, and recovered their horses;
and, in the running fight which ensued, the
Arapahos had lost several men killed, and
a number wounded, who were coming on
more slowly with a party in the rear.
Nearly all the horses they had brought off
were the property of the whites at the
fort. After remaining until nearly sunset,
they took their departure ; and the excite-
ment which their arrival had afforded sub-
sided into our usual quiet, a little enlivened
by the vigilance rendered necessary by the

neighborhood of our uncertain visiters.
At noon the thermometer was at 75<3, at
sunset 70<^, and the evening clear. Eleva-
tion above the sea ft, 820 feet ; latitude 4 1'^
30' 00" ; longitude 107^ 83' 27".

Aiiffust 0. — At sunrise the thermometer
was '16'^, tbo morning being clear and
calm. Wo travelled to-day over an ex-
tremely rugged country, barren and un-
interesting — nothing to bo seen but arte-
misia bushes ; and, in the evening, found a
grassy spot among the hills, kept green by
several springs, where we encamped late.
Within a few hundred yards was a very
pretty little stream of clear cool water,
whose green banks looked refreshing among
the dry rocky bills. The hunters brought
in a fat mountain sheep, (ovis montana.)

Our road the next day was through a
continued and dense field ot artemisia,
which now entirely covered the country in
such a luxuriant growth that it was difficult
and laborious for a man on foot to force his
way through, and nearly impracticable for
our light carriages. Th region through
which we were travelling was a high
plateau, constituting the dividing ridge be-
tween the waters of the Atlantic and Pa-
cific oceans, and extending to a considera-
ble distance southward, from the neighbor-
hood of the Table rock, at the southern
side of the South Pass. Though broken
up into rugged and rocky hills of a dry and
barren nature, it has nothing of a moun-
tainous character ; the small streams which
occasionally occur belonging neither to the
Platte nor the Colorado, but losing them-
selves either in the sand or in small lakes.
From an eminence, in the afternoon, a
mountainous range became visible in the
north, in which were recognised some
rocky peaks belonging to the range of the
Sweet Water valley; and, determining to
abandon any further attempt to struggle
through this almost impracticable country,
we turned our course directly north, towards
a pass in the valley of the Sweet Water
river. A shaft of the gun-carriage was
broken during the afternoon, causing a con-
siderable delay ; and it was late in an un-
pleasant evening before we succeeded in
finding a very poor encampment, where
there was a little water in a deep trench of
a creek, and some scanty grass among the
shrubs. All the game here consisted in a
few straggling buffalo bulls, and during the
day there had been but very little grass,
except in some green spots where it had
collected around springs or shallow lakes.
Within fifty miles of the Sweet Water, the
courlry changed into a vast saline plain, in
many places extremely level, occasionally
resembling the flat sandy beds of shallow
lakes. Here the vegetation consisted of a

[1813.

visiters,
t 75", at
Eleva-
itui'o 4 1"

rmomcler
le:ir nnd
r an ex-

and un-
bi',t arte-
r, found a

green by
ipcd late.
8 a very
ol water,
ng among
B brought
liana.)
hrough a
arlemisia,
jountry in
18 difficult
) force his
icable for
n through
a high

ridge be-

and Pa-

considera-

neighbor-

soulhern

B[h broken

a dry and
f a moun-
ams which
ther to the
sing them-
[nall lakes,
fternoon, a
Ible in the
ised some
inge of the
^rmining to
.0 struggle
lie country,
th, towards
^eet Water
rriage was
isjpg a con-
5 in an un-
icceeded in
ent, where
!p trench of

among the
nsisted in a
1 during the
little grass,
here it had
allow lakes.

Water, the
ine plain, in
occasionally
J of shallow
insisted of a

1643.

CAPT FREMONT'S IN AKiva 1 1 . ...

shrubby growth, among which wore several
variotjpa of chenopodiaccnus plant.s ; but
ihe charautoriBtic shrub was Fremonlm
virmicularis, with smaller saline shrubs
prrowing with singular luxuriance, and in
many places holding exclusive possession
of the ground.

On the evening of tlio 8th, \vv encamped
on Olio of these fresh-water lakes, which
tlip traveller considers himself fortunate to
liiui ; and the next day, in latitude by ob-
servation 42° 20' 06", halted to noon im-
mediately at the foot of the southern side
•f the range which walls in the Sweet
Water valley, on the head of a small tribu-
tary to that river.

Continuing in the afternoon our course
down the stream, which here cuts directly
through the ridge, forming a very practica-
ble pass, we entered the valley ; and, after
a march of about nine miles, encamped on
our familiar river, endeared to us by the
acquaintance of the previous expedition ;
Uie night having already closed in with a
culd rain-storm. Our camp was about
twenty miles above the Devil's gate, which
we had been able to see in coming down
Uic plain ; and, in the course of the night,
the clouds broke away around Jupiter for a
short time, during which we obtained an
emersion of the first satellite, the result
of which agreed very nearly with the
chronometer, giving for the mean longitude
107^" 50' 07" ; elevation above the sea 6,040
feet ; and distance from St. Vrain's fort, by
the road wo had just travelled, 315 miles.

Here passes the road to Oregon ; and
the broad smooth highway, where the nu-
merous heavy wagons of the emigrants
iiad entirely beaten and crushed the arte-
inisia, was a happy exchange to our poor
animals for the sharp rocks and tough
shiubs among which they had been toiling
so long; and we moved up the valley
rapidly and pleasantly. With very little
deviation from our route of the preceding
year, we continued up the valley ; and on
the evening of the 12th encamped on the
Sweet Water, at a point where tie road
turns off to cross to the plains of Green
river. The increased coolness of the
weather indicated that we had attained a
ffieat elevation, which the barometer here
placed at 7,220 feet ; and during the night
water froze in the lodge.

The morning of the 13th was clear and
nold, there being a white frost; and the
thermometer, a little before sunrise, stand-
ing at 26.5°. Leaving this encampment,
(our last on the waters which flow towards
the rising sun,) we took our way along the
upland, towards the dividing ridge which
separates the Atlantic from the Pacific
waters, and crossed it by a road some miles

farther south than the one we had followed
on our return in 1842. Wo crossed very
near the table mountain, at tho southern
extremity of tho South Pass, which is
near twenty miles in width, and already
traversed by several different road«. Se-
lecting as well as I could, in the scarcely
distinguishable ascent, what might bo con-
sidered the dividing ridge in thi.s rctnark.i-
ble depression in tho mountain, 1 took a
barometrical observation, which gave 7,400
feet for the elevation above the (iulf o(
Mexico. You will remember rtiat, in my
report of 1842, I estimated the elevation of
this pass at about 7,000 feet ; a correct ob-
servation with a good barometer enables
me now to give it with more precision.
Its importance, as the great gate through
which commerce and travelling may here-
after pass between tho valley of the Mis-
sissippi and the north Pacific, justifies a
precise notice of its locality and distance
from leading points, in addition to this
statement of its elevation. As stated in
the report of 1842, its latitude at the point
where we crossed is 42^ 24' 32 " ; its longi-
tude 100° 26' 00"; its distance from the
mouth of the Kaiisiis, by the common trav-
elling route, 962 miles ; from the mouth of
the Great IMatte, along the valley of that
river, according to our survey of 1842,
882 miles ; and its distance from St. Louis
about 400 miles more by the Kansas, and
about 700 by the Great Platte route ; these
additions being steamboat conveyance in
both instances. From this pass to the
mouth of the Oregon is about 1,400 miles
by the common travelling route ; so that,
under a general point of view, it may be
assumed to be about half way between the
Mississippi and the Pacific ocean,. on the
common travelling route. Following a
hollow of slight and easy descent, in
which was very soon formed a little tribu-
tary to the Gulf of California, (for the waters
which flow west from the South Pass go to
this gulf,) we made our usual halt four
miles from the pass, in latitude by observa-
tion 42° 19' 53". Entering here the valley
of Green river — the great Colorado of the
West — and inclining very much to the
southward along the streams which form
the Sandy river, the road led for several
days over dry and Ijvel uninteresting
plains ; to which a low, scrubby growth of
artemisia gave a uniform dull grayish color ;
and on the evening of the 15th we en-
camped in the Mexican territory, on the left
bank of Green river, 69 miles from the
South Pass, in longitude 110° 05' 05", and
latitude 41° 53' 54", distant 1,031 miles
from the mouth of the Kansas. This is
the emigrant road to Oregon, which bears
much to the southward, to avoid Ihe moun-

,'.

.-■■4:\i

^Atl. FREMONT'S NAUUATIVE.

[1841.

tains about tlio western heailii of (irceii
liver — tho Rio Vrnlc of llio Spaniiuda.

Augux/ 10. — ('ro8»iiiK tho river, lierc
about 100 feet wide, \>y a very yond ford,
wo continued to doBcond for seven or ei^lit
miloH on a pleasant road alonp tho ri<(lu
bank of the stream, of wliioli the islands
and shores are iiand.<<onicly timbered with
cotton-wood. The refieuhint^ appearance of
the ))niud river, with its timbered shores
and p;reen wooded islands, in contrast to its
dry sandy plains, probably obtained for it the
name of Green river, which was bestowed
on it by the Spaniards who first came into
this country to trade some 25 years ago. It
was then familiarly known as the Secils-ke-
dee-agie, or Prairie Jlen {tcfrao urophasi-
anus) river ; a name whicii it received from
the Crows, to whom its upper waters be-
long, and on which this bird is still very
abundant. By the Shosbonee and Utah
Indians, to whom belongs, for a considerable
distance beh)w, tho country wiiere we were
now travelling, it was called the Bitter
Root river, from the great abundance in its
valley of a plant which affords them one of
their favorite roots. Lower down, from
Brown's hole to the southward, the river
runs through lofty ciiasms, walled in by pre-
cipices of red rock ; and even among the
wilder tribes who inhabit that portion of its
course, I have heard it called by Indian
refugees from the Californian settlements
the Rio Colorado. We halted to noon at
the upper end of a large bottom,^near some
old houses, which had been a trading post,
in latitude 41^ 46' 54". At this place the
elevation of the river above the sea is
6,230 feet. That of Lewis's fork of the
Columbia at Ii)urt Hall is, according to our
subsequent observations, 4,500 feet. The
descent of each stream is rapid, but that of
the Colorado is but little known, and that
little derived from vague report. Three
hundred miles of its lower part, as it ap-
proaches the gulf of California, is reported
to be smooth and tranquil ; but its upper
part is manifestly broken into many falls
and rapids. From many descriptions of
tappers, it is probable that in its foaming
course among its lofty precipices it presents
many scenes of wild grandeur ; and though
offering many temptations, and often dis-
cussed, no trappers have been found bold
enough to undertake a voyage which has so
certain a prospect of a fatal termination.
The Indians have strange stories of beauti-
ful valleys abounding with beaver, shut up
among inaccessible walls of rock in the lower
course of the river ; and to which the neigh-
boring Indians, in their occasional wars with
the Spaniards, and among themselves, drive
their herds of cattle and fiocks of sheep,
leaving them to pastiire in perfect security.

Tho road here loaves tho river, which
bends considerably to tho east ; and in the
at\oriioon wo rusumcd our westerly course,
passing over a somewhat high and broken
country ; and about sunset, after a day's
travel of 20 miles, reached Black's fork of
the (iroen river — a shallow stream, with a
somewhat sluggish current, about 120 feet
wide, timbered principally with willow, and
here and there an occasional large tree. At
3 in tho morning 1 obtained an observation
of an emersion of the first satellite of Ju|)i-
tor, with other observations. The heavy
wagims have so completely pulverized tho
soil, that clouds of fine light dust are raised
by the slightest wind, making the road
sometimes very disagreeable.

August 17. — Leaving our encampment
at in the morning, we travelled along the
bottom, wiiich is about two miles wide,
bordered by low hills, in which the strata
contained handsome and very distinct vege-
table fossils. In a gully a short distance
farther up the river, and underlying these,
was exposed a stratum of an impure or
argillaceous limestone. Crossing on the
way Black's fork, where it is one foot deep
and forty wide, with clear water and a
pebbly bed, in nine miles we reached Ham's
ibrk, a tributary to the former stream, hav-
ing now about sixty feet breadth, and a few
inches depth of water. It is wooded with
thickets of red willow, and in the bottom is
a tolerably strong growth of grass. The
road here makes a traverse of twelve miles
across a bend of the river. Passing in the
way some remarkable hills, two or three
hundred feet high, with frequent and nearly
vertical escarpments of a green stone, con-
sisting of an argillaceous carbonate of lime,
alternating with strata of an iron-brown
limestone, and worked into picturesque
forms by wind and rain, at 2 in the after-
noon we reached the river again, having
made to-day 31 miles. Since crossing tho
great dividing ridge of the Rocky moun
tains, plants have boon very few in variety,
the country being covered principally with
artemisia.

August 18. — We passed on the road, this
morning, the grave of one of the emigrants,
being the second we had seen since falling
into their trail ; and halted to noon on the
river, a short distance above.

The Shoshonee woman took leave of us
here, expecting to And some of her relations
at Bridger's fort, which is only a mile or
two distant, on a fork of this stream. In
the evening we encamped on a salt creek,
about fifteen feet wide, having to-day trav-
elled 32 miles.

I obtained an emersion of the first satel-
lite under favorable circumstances, the night
being still and clear.

1843.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

!r, which
1(1 in the
y course,
(I l)rokcu
r a day's
's fork of
III, with u

120 feel
How, ami

tree. Al
)McrVHtioii
! of Ju|)i-
ho htsavy
Brized tho
arc raised
tlic ruad

campnient

aloii|r thn

lo8 wide,

tho strata

inct vege-

t distanoo

ing these,

iiiipiirc or

ig on the

foot deep

tcr and a

led Ham's

earn, hav-

and a few

loded with

s hottom is

ass. The

rolve miles

sing in the

or three

and nearly

stone, con-

ite of lime,

iron-brown

ticturesquo

the after-

lin, having

ossing the

[;ky moun

in variety,

ipally with

3 road, this
emigrants,
nee falling
oon on the

eave of us
3r relations
a mile or
bream. In
salt creek,
)-day Irav-

first satel-
9, the night

One of our mules died here, and in this
portion of our journey wo lost six or sev(!n
of our animals. Thn grass which the
country had lately aflbrdod was very poor
uiiil insufTicieiit ; and animals which have
l)ei'ii acciititomcd to grain bocuine soon
\vt':ik and uiiahle to labor, when reduced to
110 otiior nourishment than grass. Tho
American horses (as those are usually
riillud which arn brmight to this country
iVoiii the States) are nut of any serviceable
value until after they have remained a
winter in tho country, and bccuino ac-
cu>)loiiied to live entirely on grass.

August 19. — Desirous to avoid every de-
lay not absolutely necessary, I sent on Car-
son ill advance to Fort Hall this morning,
10 make arrangements for a small supply
of provisions. A few miles from our en-
euinpinent, the road entered a high ridge,
which the trappers called the " little moun-
tain," connecting the Utah with the Wind
river chain ; and in one of the hills near
which wo passed I remarked strata of a
coii^rlomerato formation, fragments of which
were scattered over the surface. We cross-
ed a ridge of this conglomerate, the road
passing near a grove of low cedar, and de-
scended upon one of the heads of Ham's
fork, called Muddy, where we made our
mid-day halt. In the river hills at this place,
1 discovered strata of fossilliferous rock,
having an oolitic structure, which, in con-
nection with the neighboring strata, autho-
rize us to believe that here, on the west
bide of the Rocky mountains, we iind re-
peated the modern formations of Great Bri-
tain and Europe, which have hitherto been
wanting to complete the system of North
American geology.

In the afternoon we continued our road,
and, searching among the hills a few miles
up tho stream, and on the same bank, I dis-
covered, among alternating beds of coal and
clay, a stratum of white indurated clay,
containing very clear and beautiful impres-
sions of vegetable remains. This was the
tiost interesting fossil locality I had met in
the country, and I deeply regretted that
time did not permit me to remain a day or
two in the vicinity ; but I could not antici-
pate the delays to which I might be exposed
in the course of our journey — or, rather, I
knew that they were many and inevitable ;
and after remaining here only about an hour,
I hurried off, loaded with as many speci-
mens as I could conveniently carry.

Coal made its appearance occasionally in
the hills during the afternoon, and was dis-
played in rabbit burrows in a kind of gap,
through which we passed over some liigh
hillsj and we descended to make our en-
campment on the same Rtream, where we
found but very poor grass. In the evening

a fine cow, with her calf, which had strayed
off from some emigrant party, wnrr found
several miles from the road, and brnught
into camp ; and as she gave an abundance
of milk, we enjoyed to-night an excellent
cut) of coHen. Wo travelled to-day ii8
miles, and, as has been usual Mince croH«iiig
the (ireen river, the road has been very
dusty, .and tho weather smoky and oppres-
sively hot. Artemisia was characterititiu
among tho few plants.

August 80. — Wo contiii icd to travel up
the creek by a very gradual ascent and a
very excellent giassy road, passing on the
way several small forks of the stream. The
hills hero are higher, presenting escarp-
ments of parti-colorcd and apparently clay
rocks, purple, dark rod, and yellow, con-
taining strata of sandstone and liinestono
with shells, with a bed of cemented pebiiies,
the whole overlaid by beds of limestone.
The alternation of red and yellow gives a
bright appearance to tho hills, one of which
was called by our people thn Rainbow hill ;
and tho character of the country becamo
more agreeable, and travelling tar more
pleasant, as now we found timber and very
good grass. Gradually ascending, \vc reach-
ed the lower level of a bed of white lime-
stone, lying upon a white clay, on the upper
line of which the whole road is abundantly
supplied with beautiful cool springs, gushing
out a foot in breadth and several inches
deep, directly from the hill side. At noon
we halted at the last main fork of the creek,
at an elevation of 7,200 feet, and in latitude,
by observation, 41<3 39' 45"; and in the af-
ternoon continued on the same excellent
road, up the left or northern fork of the
stream, towards its head, in a pass which
the barometer placed at 8,230 feet above
the sea. This is a connecting ridge be-
tween the Utah or Bear river mountains
and the Wind river chain of the Rocky
mountains, separating the waters of the
gulf of California on the east, and those on
the west belonging more directly to the Pa-
cific, from a vast interior basin whose "rivers
are collected into numerous lakes having
no outlet to the ocean. From the summit
of this pass, the highest which the road
crosses between the Mississippi and th4
Western ocean, our view was over a very
mountainous region, whose rugged appear-
ance was greatly increased by the smoky
weather, through which the broken ridges
were dark and dimly seen. The ascent to
the summit of the gap was occasionally
steeper than the national road in the AUe-
ghanies ; and the descent, by way of a spur
on the western side, is rather precipitous,
but the pass may still be called a good one.
Some thickets of willow in the hollows be-
low deceived us into the expectation of

^•^:::

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAKUATIVR.

ri84S

!•-?

f;i'

Andinif a camp at our usual hotir at ilin root
of the mountain ; Imt wo funnel tlirm with-
out wulor, and eo'itinnt'd down u riivinf,
and onrampi'd ubout dark at a iilac*' wlicrn
iho Bpringa ajo^ain bc^an to mako tlit'ir ap-

|>«arancc, but where our animals fartui bad-
y ; the stock of the cnii^ranta ha\in({ razod
tlie grass as complele! y att if wr woro ayain

Aiiffuxt SI, — An hour's Iravfl this morn-
ing; lir«>iiplit us into tbn fcrtilo and pirlu-
rtviuo valloy of Hear rivrr, tho principal
tributary to tho (Jrcat Salt lake. The
Ntream is hero 200 feet wide, friuRt'd with
willows and occasional ^^ roups of hawthorns.
We were now entering a region which for
us possessed a strange and extraordinary
interest. Wo were upon tho waters of the
famous lake which forms a salient point
among the remarkable geographical features
of the country, and around which the vuguo
and superstitious accounts of thn trappers
had thrown a delightful obscurity, which
we anticipated pleasure in dispelling, but
which, in the mean time, left a crowded
field for the exercise of our imagination.

In our occasional conversations with the
few old hunters who had visited the region,
it had been a subject of frequent specula-
tion ; and the wonders which they related
were not the less agreeable because they
were highly exaggerated and impossible.

Hitherto this lake had been seen only by
trappers who were wandering through the
country in search of new beaver streams,
oaring very little for geography ; its islands
had never been visited ; and none were to
be found who had entirely made the circuit
of its shores ; and no instrumental observa-
tions or geographical survey, of any de-
scription, had ever been made anywhere in
the neighboring region. It was generally
supposed that it had no visible outlet ; but
among the trappers, including those in my
own camp, were many who believed that
somewhere on its surface was a terrible
whirlpool, through which its waters found
their way to the ocean by some subterra-
nean communication. All these things had
made a frequent subject of discussion in our
desultory conversations around the fires at
night ; and my own mind had become toler-
ably well filled with their indefinite pictures,
and insensibly colored with their romantic
descriptions, which, in the pleasure of ex-
citement, I was well disposed to believe,
and half expected to realize.

Where we descended into this beautiful
valley, it is three to four miles in breadth,
perfectly level, and bounded by mountainous
ridges, one above another, rising suddenly
from the plain.

We continued our road down the river,
and at night encamped with a family of emi-

5 rants — two men, women, ami Hevoral chil
rt'ii — who appeared to bo bringing up thn
rear of the great caravan. 1 was Htrtick
with the fine appearance of their cuttle,
Moine Mix or eight yoke of oxen, which really
looked UH well ua if they had been all lliti
Diiiiimer ut work on Nome good farm. It
wait Htrango to sec one small family travel-
ling along through such a coiiiilry, no remote
from civilization. Some nine years since,
Nuch a security might have been a fatal one ,
but since their disaotrous defeats in tin;
country a little north, the Uluckfeet have
ceased to visit these waters. Indians, how-
ever, are very uncertain in their localiticH :
and the friendly feelings, also, of those nuM
inhabiting it may be changed.

According to barometrical observation n\
noon, the elevation of the valley was 6,400
feet above the sea ; and our encampment at
night in latitude 42° 03' 47", and longitude
lil° 10 53", by observation— the day's
journey having been 26 miles. This en-
campment was therefore within the territo-
rial limit of the Uaited States ; our travel-
ling, from the time we entered the valley of
the (treen river, on the 15th of August,
having been to the south of tho 42d degree
of north latitude, and consequently on Mexi-
can territory ; and this is the route nil the
emigrants now travel to Oregon.

1 he temperature at sunset was 65'^ ; and
at evening there was a distant thunder
storm, with a light breeze from the north.

Antelope and elk were seen during the
day on the opposite prairie ; and there were
ducks and geese in tho river.

The next morning, in about three miles
from our encampment, wo reached Smith's
fork, a stream of clear water, about 50 feet
in breadth. It is timbered with cotton-wood,
willow, and aspen, and makes a beautiful
debouchement through a pass about 600
yards wide, between remarkable mountain
hills, rising abruptly on either side, and form-
ing gigantic columns to the gate by which it
enters Bear river valley. The bottoms,
which below Smith's fork had been two
miles wide, narrowed, as we advanced, to a
gap 500 yards wide ; and during the greater
part of the day wc had a winding route, the
river making very sharp and sudden bends,
the mountains steep and rocky, and the val-
ley occasionally so narrow as only to leave
space for a passage through.

We made our halt at noon in a fertile bot-
tom, where the common blue flax was grow-
ing abundantly, a few miles below the mouth
of Thomas's fork, one of the larger tribu-
taries of the river.

Crossing, in the afternoon, the point of a
narrow spur, we descended into a beautiful
bottom, formed by a lateral valley, which
presented a picture of home beauty that

ing
late

fl84S

1843]

CAP'". FREMONT'S NARFIATIVK.

Mciit directly to our bearta. Tlio eAge of
tlio wood, fur Bcveral miica along thn rivor,
wuN dotltid with the whitu covera uf <>ini-
Kfiint wu((uiiB, collcctud in ^roupa ut difler-
ent i*ntn])8, where the amokea were riainft
lazily from the firea, around which thu wo-
men weru occupied in preparing the evening
mciil, and the children playing in the grasa ;
and herds of cattle, grazing about iu the bot-
tom, had an air of quiot acuurity, and civil-
i-i,od comfort, that made a rare aight for the
traveller in anch a remote wilderneaa.

Ill common with all the emigration, thoy
had been rcpuaing for aevcral idaya in this
dolighlful valley, in order to recruit their
iinimala on ita luxuriant pasturage after their
long journey, and prepare them for the hard
travel along the comparatively aterilo banka
uf tho Upper Columbia. At the lower end
of this uxlenaive bottom, tho liver paaaes
liirough an open caflon, where there wore
high vertical rocka to the water's edge, and
the road here turna up a broad valley to tho
right. It waa already near sunset ; but,
hoping to reach the river again before night,
we continued our march along the valley,
finding thu road tolerably good, until wo
arrived at a point where it croaaea the ridge
by an usuent of a mile in length, which was
80 very steep and difficult for the gun and
carriage, that we did not reach the summit
until dark.

It waa absolutely necessary to descend
into the valley for water and grass ; and we
were obliged to grope our way in the dark-
ness down a very steep, bad mountain, reach-
ing the river at about 10 o'clock. It was
late before our animals were gathered into
eamp, several of those which were very
weak being necessarily left to pass the night
on the ridge ; and we sat down again to a
midnight supper. Tho road, in the morn-
ing, presented an animated appearance. We
found that we had encamped near a large
party of emigrants ; and a few miles below,
another party was already in motion. Here
the valley had resumed its usual breadth,
and the river swept off* along the mountains
on the western side, the road continuing di-
rectly on.

In about an hour's travel we met several
Shoshonee Indians, who informed us that
they belonged to a large village which had
just come into tho valley from the mountain
to the westward, where they had been hunt-
ing antelope and gathering service-berries.
Glad at the opportunity of seeing one of
their villages, and in the hope of purchasing
from them a few horses, I turned imme-
diately off* into the plain towards their en-
campment, which was situated on a small
stream near the river.

We had approached within something
more than a mile of the village, when sud-

denly a aingiA horaemaii cmorgnd from it at
full apeod, fullowod by another, and another,
HI rapid aucct!»Nion ; and then party after
party pourtui into tho itlain, until, when the
foruiiioHt rider ruacliiul iin, uII the whole in-
tervening plain was occupied by u maHN of
horamnun, which canio charging down upon
ns with guns and nak<!il hwodIm, lancus, and
bowH and Hrrows, — hi'liuim cnliroly naked,
and warriors fully dreMncd for war, with the
lung red streamers of their war iionnulM
reaching nearly to the ground, all minulnl
together in tho liravcry of navage waifaie.
They had been thrown into a siiddtn tumult
by the appearance of our Hag, which, among
these people, ia regarded as an emblem of
hostility — it being usually borne by the
Sioux, and tho noighburing mountain In-
dians, when they come hero to war : and
we had, accordingly, been mistaken for n
body of their enemies. A fow words from
the chief quieted the excitement ; and thu
whole band, increasing every moment in
number, escorted us to their encampment,
where the chief pointed out a |)laoc for us to
encamp, near his own lodge, and iiiadu
known our purpose in visiting thu village.
In a very short time wo purchased eight
horaes, for which wu gave in exchange
blankets, rod and blue cloth, beads, kniv(!s,
and tobacco, and the usual other articles of
Indian traffic. VV^e obtained from them also
a considerable quantity of berries of dilTer-
ent kinds, among which scrvicc-bcrrica
were the most abundant ; and several kinds
uf roots and seeds, which wc could cat with
pleasure, as any kind of vegetable food was
gratifying to us. I ate here, for tho first
time, the kooyah, or tobacco root, {Valeriana
edulis,) the principal edible root among the
Indians who inhabit the upper waters of the
streams on the western side of the moun-
tains. It has a very strong and remarkably
peculiar taste and odor, which I can com-
pare to no other vegetable that I am ac-
quainted with, and which to some persons is
extremely offensive. It was characterized
by Mr. rreuss as the most horrid food he
had evv put in his mouth ; and when, in the
evening, one of the chiefs sent his wife to
me with a portion which she had prepared
as a delicacy to regale us, the odor imme-
diately drove him out of the lodge ; and
frequently afterwards he used to beg that
when those who liked it had taken what they
desired, it might be sent away. To others,
however, the taste is rather an agreeable
one ; and I was afterwards always glad
when it formed an addition to our scanty
meals. It is full of nutriment ; and in its
unprepared state is said by the Indians to
have very strong poisonous qualities, of
which it is deprived by a peculiar process,
being baked in the ground for about two daya.

if.|

' V

■H

> !• ■'(

uSv

irJj

m
M

6
m

Tfl

CAPT. I'UKMON'r'.S NARIIATIVK.

[18 IS

m'<i

■' 1"

Tliu tiKirniiiu ol' tli«> d till wtiH ilin;i)^ri<t>u-
biy cool, witli itii I'liNtcrlv wiiiii un<l vory
■inoky wratluir. \Vi> miilo u liit«t xtiirl from
thu villu({i>, liiiil, ri-».'Hiiiin^' thn roiid, (mi
whicli, ilurmj( ull ilir <liiy, wi-rr «<«iiltt'ni(l
lliu emit^rant \vutt<>n«,) wi> (Miniiiiiicd mi
down the vulli-y of lh« river, ImnU'iTd liy
hii(l> ■i'l'J tiitiiiiiiuiiioiiH liilU, oil wtilcli liri'K
lii-(! aoiMi at tilt! Hiiiiiiiiit. Tim mhiI ii|>|>(<:ii'n

(((MI'TJlliy U""*'i IlltllOUU'll, Witll till) ({l.l.'iMI'M,

iiiuiiv ol' the iiiaiits urti ilried up, probiilily on
itrroiiiit of llic Krt'ut lieiit uiiil \v;iiit ul' ruin,
Thu coiimion bliiu lliix of iMiltivutioii, now
alnioHl eiitir«!ly in m'<i<l — only a ncutu-rril
flower Ixjro ami then! ri'infiininK — ia tin'
nioMt charucleristio plant of thu llciir rivi'i
valley. Wlini wc (!ncuiii|ieil at niuht on
tho riRht liaiik of thu river, it wiih ^iowiiik
an in a Hown litilil. VVe had travelled dnrini;
tho day 2'J niihm, enrainpint; in latitude (hy
observation) I'J 'AW 50", cliroiioinctric loii-
gitiido 111 ' 1-J'().V.

In our nci<;lil)orliood, thn mountains ap-
peared uxtreiitulv rugged, f^ivini; Mtill great-
er valuo to this beautiful natural paxH.

Aiiifust U5. — 'I'his was a cloudleHs but
flinoky autumn mnrnin^f, with a cold wind
from tho SK., and a tunipnraturo uf 15" at
sunrise. In a few miles I noticed, where ii
Ihtle Htreain crossed tho road, fra((inents of
scorialcd hasaU scattered about — tho firHt
volcanic ruck wo had seen, and which n«)w
became a characteristic rock along our fu-
ture road. In about six tniles travel from
our encampment, wo reached one of tli>!
points in our journey to which we had al-
ways looked forward with great interest —
tho famous Bter sf)rinf:[s. The place in
which they are situated is a basin of miner-
al waters enclosed by the mountains, which
sweep around a circular bend of Dear river,
hero at its most northern point, and which
from a northern, in the course of a few
miles acquires a southern direction towards
the GuKAT Salt lake. A pretty little
Btreatn of clear water enters the ujijier part
of the basin from an open valley in the moiin-
luins, and, passing through the bottom, dis-
charges into Dear river. Cros^ng this
stream, we descended a mile below, and
made mir encampment in a grove of cedar
immediately at the Heer springs, which, on
account of the effervescing gas and acid
taste, have received their name from the
voyageurs and trappers of the country, who,
in the midst of their rude and hard lives,
are fond of finding some fancied resem-
blance to the luxuries they rarely have the
fortune to enjoy.

Although somewhat disappointed in the
expectations which various descriptions had
led me to form of unusual beauty of situa-
tion and scenery, I found it altogether a
place of very great interest; and a trav-

iilliT tor ihn firitt timo in a volcartio r«>gton
reuiuiM* ill a coiutunt t \i-iti iniMit, unil ai
every Mtep ih urreittod by nonitithing re-
markable ami new. Thcro ih a cmifiiiiimi
of iiili'rontiiig objiH'iH gathorod together in a
Miiiall Hpuce. Armiiid ihu placr of eiu'ainp-
iniMil the lieer nuiingH wore iiiiriierouii ; but,
an fur UN we could UHr-i-rtuin, were entirely
i-oiifnied to thai locality in the bottom, in
ihe bed ot the nv r, in iront, for a space df
several hundred yardrt, they werii very
abundant ; the ctlervoMcing ga-s ri-sing iiji
and agitating the water in ooiiiitlcHs bulj
bliiig columns. In the vinnity round about
were numerous Hprings of an entirely differ-
ent and etpially marked niineral (iliaracter.
Ill a rather picturesque spot, about 1,3U0
yards below our encampimMit, and immi'di-
utely on the river bank, is the most remark
able spring of the place. In an opening oii
tho rock, u white column of scattered water
is thrown up, in form like ajel-tVcuu, to a
variable height of about three (Vet, and,
though it is inuintuinod in a constant supply,
its greatest height is ■■< ttained only at regu-
lar intervals, accm ' to tho action uf the
force below. It is u ompuiiied by a suii-
tcrrancan noise, which, together with the
motion of the water, riiukos vory much the
impression of a steamboat in motion ; ami.
without knowing that it had bet-n already
previously so calleil, wc gave to it the name
of the IStcambual spring. The rock througii
which it is forced is slightly ruis«d in u con-
vex manner, and gathered at the opening.;
into an urn-mouthed form, and is evidently
formed by continued deposition from liic
water, and colored bright red by oxide of
iron. An analysis of this deposited rock,
w hich I subjoin, will give you some idea ol
tho properties of the water, which, with the
exception of the Deer springri, is the iniii-
erul water of the place.* It is a hot spring,
and the water has a pungent and disagree-
able metallic taste, leaving a burning effect
on the tongue. Within perhaps two yardn
of iiw jet-d^eau is a small hole of about nn
inch in diameter, through which, at regular
intervals, escapes a blast of hot air with .i
light wreath of smoke, accompanied by a
regular noise. This hole had been notict li
by Doctor Wislizenus, a gentleman who
several years since passed by this place, and
who remarked, with vory nice observation.

* ANALVBI8.

Carbonate of lime .

. 92.55

Carbonate of magnesia .

. 0.42

Oxide of iron ....

. 1.05

Silica i

Alumina >

. 5.98

Water and loss )

" *

loaoo

(IfllS

IH43.I

l^Vl'T. FUKMONT'M NAUUAllVl'.

tl«

.|.(

10 ro^ioii
, It ml III
liiii^ rv-

■DIll'llHioil

tliiir lit a

fiicatiip-

Dim ; Init,

•• nil rely

tmii. Ill

t(|)ari> III"

mi) vpry

I'IhIII^ II|i

t'Hs bull

iiiiil ahmit

uly tJilli'i-

liiirai'tei

lut 1,3U0
iiiiiiicili-
I reiimik

MMiiii|{ (111
SK'il water

\<IU, t(l II

feet, iiiiil,

lit nU|i|l|y,

y at renw-
ion <>r the
by a «ul»-
witb tlie
' iiiiioii tlic
tion ; ami,
11 ulreuriy
t tlic iiaiiifl
i:k tliroii^ii

111 ill !t COR'

10 ()|ieiiin;;
I cvideiiily
fruiii the
y oxiiifl ul'
situd rock,
(lie idea ul
It, with tlie
8 the mill-
hut Bpriiig,
diaagree-
iiiiig effect
two yards
f ubout ail
ut regular
air with a
inied by a.
en notioi'd
eiiuiii uiio
< jiluci!, and
liberviiiioa,

92.55
0.42
1.05

thikt Hinulliti(( tlio Kaa which itnurd iVom thn
iiritioe priiduri'd ii HeiiN.iliuii ol' (riddiiinHS
anil iiauHun. Mr. I'rtiUiiN and niyiiidr rn-
peati'd tlie olMinrvution, and wiith no well
Natiolit^l with itH oorrcctneaa, that we did
not lind it ideaaimt to coiitniiic thi« experi-
nitiiil, itH the Heiinution of ^iddiiieHH \\hich it
produi'tul wan certitiiily htriiii(( and deeidtMl,
A hii(;e eniivniiit wauoii, with a htr^e and
liiverMlled I'ainily, had overtaken un ami
halted to noon at our encaiii|.in(wtt ; itiid,
while we were nittin^ ut the Hprin);, a hand
ut boyH and RiilH, with two or three yoiin((
Dien, (*anie up, one of whom I aitked to
at(i'>p down and Hmell the ^iih, di'.siroii!* to
!'ati>ry myself further of it.«t ell'eetM. Hut
hih natural caution had been awakened by
the siny;ular and BU»pii*ioii« ftatiires of the
place, and he dedined my pi'o|iosal decided-
ly, and with a few industiiict remarks about
the devil, whom ho seemed to con.sider the
gnitus loci. The ceaMcless motion and the
jilay of the fountain, the red rock, and the
green treua near, make this u pictiireaiiue
apiit.

A Hhort distance above the 8|iring, and
near the foot of the same spur, is a very re-
markable yellow-colored rock,8iift and frii-
ble, coimi.'itin^ principally of carbonate of
lime and oxide of iron, ot regular structure,
which is probably a fos.sil coral. 'I'lie nx^ky
bank alonp the shore between the Mteanitioat
spring and our encampment, along which is
dispersed the water frtiin the hills, is com-
jM)8ed entirely of strata of a calcareous tufa,
with the remains of nios.s and reed-like
grasses, which is probably the formation of
hprings. The Beer or ISitda sprinir.t, wliii^b
have given name to this locality, are agree-
able, but less highly flavored than the Hoil-
irn>; .iprini^.s at the loot, of I'ike's peak, which
are of the same character, 'i'liey are very
uiinierous, and half hidden by tufts of grass,
which we amused ourselves in removing
and searching about for more highly impreg-
nated spring.s. They are some of them
deep, and of various sizes — sometimes seve-
ral yards in diameter, and kept in constant
motion by columns of escaping gas. JJy
iiialysis, one quart of the water contains us
follows :

Oraliii.

Sjulphato of magnesia .... 12. lU

Sulphate of lime 2.12

Carbonate of lime 3.80

Carbonate of magnesia .... 3.22

Chloride of calcium 1.33

Chloride of magnesium .... 1.12

Chloride of sodium . . . . 2.24

Vegetable extractive matter, &o. 0.85

26.84

The carbonic acid, originally contained in

rile water, had mainly escaped before it was

Huhjeeted to analyiiM ; and it waa not, th«r**

fort*, taken into coiiaiduratton.

In the afternomi ( wandered about .imong

the eed.UH, which occupy tti« greater part
..r .1... I..... . I. .1 'I'l .

of the bottom t

Is the inounlii

the

owaniM me inouniaiiin.
soil herif h.iH a dry and calcmii'd appearance;
in some plai-en, the ojien groiinda are cov-
ered witii Kiliiie ollloreHconces, and there
are a iiuiiilier <>f regiilarly-nhaped and very
remarkable hills, which are formed of a
suecesHion of convi'X strata that have been
deposited by llin waters of eXlinct springs,
the orilices of wbieb are found on their
summits, some of them having the form of
funnel-shaped cones. Oibera of these re-
markably-bhapod lulls are of a red-colored
earth, entirely bare, and composed |irinci.
pally of I irboiiate of lime, with oxide of
iron, formed in the same manner. Walking
near one of them, on the summit ol which
the springs were dry, my attenlion was al-
tiacted by an uiidergroiind noise, around
wliieh 1 <!irele(I repeatedly, until I found ll»e
spot from beneath which it came ; and. re-
moving the red earth, discovered a hidden
spring, which was boiling up from lielow,
with the same >li.iagreeitbje metallic taste aa
the Steamlioat spring. Continuing up the
bottom, and crossing the little streuin which
has been already mentimied, I visited sevo-
rul remarkable red and white hills, which
had attracted my attention from the road in
tlie morning. These are immedi. oly upon
the stream, and, like those already iiacn-
lioiied, are formed by the deposition of suc-
cessive strata from tiie springs. On their
summits, the orilices through which tlio
waters had been discharged were so largo,
that tliey resembled niiniatine craters, being
some of them several feet in diameter, cir-
cular, and regularly formed as if by art. At
a former time, when these dried-up foun-
tains were all in motion, they must hare
made a beautiful display on a grand scale ;
and nearly all this basin appears to me to
have been formed under their action, und
should bo called the place of fountains. At
the foot of one of those hills, or rather on its
side near the base, are several of these
small limostono columns, about one foot in
diameter ut the base, nnd tapering upwards
to a height of three or lour feet ; and on the
summit the water is boiling up and bubbling
over, constantly adding to the height of the
little obelisks. In some, the wuirr unly
boils up, no longer overflowing, and ii.is hero
the same taste as ut the .Steamboat spring.
The observer will remark a gradual subsi-
dence in the water, which formerly supplied
the fountains ; as on all the summits of the
hills the springs are now dry, and are found
only low down upon their sides, or on the
surrounding plain.

A little higher up the creek, its banks are

i).^

\Al

r«

CArr. FRKMONTS NAIIKATIVK.

[Hit.

Airmit'l l)y alrnta n( n very heavy an<l linnl
•(••iriiK'i'iMiM liiiNiklt, liavl,)^ II ttri({lit iiit'lulln^
Inatro wln'ri hntki'ii 'I'Ihi iiDuinluinw <iviir-
liKikiiitr ilio |>laiii lint ol'ttii cntirt'ly diHi^ri'iit
UiMilii|;ii'iil cliaruoti'r. <'oiiliniiini{ on, I
vt4lki'il til till' niiiiiniit ol'oni) oC ilicni, wli<>ri<
lliii |iiini'i|iiil nii'k wnn ;i ({ruiiiiliir i|Uiirt'/..
DkhopmiIiiik tint iiKMinlninit, iiiul rrtiiriiinif
tiiw^inU tliui'iiiii|Mtloti^ tliH hiiHii i(t° llii< tu\^v
M'liii'li xkirtN tliK pliiit), I rminil nl tliti foiit
III' a riioiiiitaiii niiiir, ami iitMUin(( rroiii a ciiiii-

Iiaol riii'k til' u iliirk Itliio onlur, :i t(r«;it niiiii-
M>r III' HiiniiuH hiiviii^ tlm Ntmii< |iun|^<nit ami
iliH;iurcr;ilily niiHullia tanto uircaily tmm-
tloiicil, till) wator of which wan oolluotuil
inltt u very ruiiiarkiihle hwm, whuao Nin((u-
larity, |iorhu|m, inaiiu it uppoar to mu very
iMiikiinrul. It JN UiTU^ — porhupH fifty yariLi
III c-iri'iiinl«roiinii ; and in it tho water iHron-
tiiiiHMl ill ill) i'li*vutii)ii of Hcvcral fcot almvo
the Miirriiuti(liiii,( i^rounil, hy a wall of ciiica-
ruoiiM ttij'ii, CDiiipoMUil principally af thu rii-
niuiiirt of iiioNHcn, tlirci) or four, anil Nnnic-
tiincH ten feci hif^h. The w.-itur within m
<i!ry clear ami |iiiro, ami thron or four I'vci
kiflcp, where it could ho conveniently mcaH-
ureil near tho wall ; and at a contiidcrahly
lower Id vol, in another pond or hiiHin of very
clear water, and apparently of conaidcrahle
de|itli, from the hottom of which the ((aH
wuH esuapintt in biibhiinff columnn at many
plaeoB. This water wau collected into a
■mall Htream, which, in a few hundred yardM,
sank under ground, reappeariiiK ainonp tho
rockH hctwecn tho two f^reat Hprin^^s near
the river, which it entered hy a little fall.

Late ill the afternoon 1 set out nn my re-
turn to the camp, and, crossing in the way
a large lieldof a salt that was aeveral inches
deep, found on niv arrival that our emigrant
friends, who had hecn encamped in company
with us, had resumed thoir journey, and the
road hud again assumed its solitary charac-
ter. The temperature of tho largest of the
Beer spriiiga at our cncain|iincnt was 05^ at
aunset, that of the air being (12.5'^. Our
baroiiietrio observation gave 5,640 foot for
the elevation above tho gulf, being about
500 feet lower than tho Boiling springs,
which are of a similar nature, at the foot of
Pike's peak. The astronomical observa-
tions gave for our latitude 42" 30' 57", and
1 1 1 J 40' 00 " for the longitude. Tho night
was very still and cloudless, and I sat up
for an observation of the lirst satellite of
Jupiter, the emersion of which took place
about midnight ; but fell asleep at the tcle-
acope, awaking just a few minutes after the
appearance of the star.

The morning of the 26th was calm, and
the sky without clouds, but smoky ; and the
temperature at sunrise 28.5'^. At the aame
time, the temperature of the large Beer
■priiig, wliere we were encamped, waa 56<^ -

that of ihn Sirariihoal npring h7" . nnd that
of the ■leiuii hull', near it, Nl.ft '. In ihr
I'oiUMi of the iiiiirning, tho lanl witLront of
the I'migralion pitnaed by, nnd wu wero
again IrA in our place, m the rear.

Itemuining in camp until nearly 1 1 o'clock,
we tra\el|i'il a iiliort liiMtanctf down (lie riv-
er, and halted to noon on lliii bank, at .t
Iioiiit where the road ipiitH the valley of
tear river, and, cnmning a rnlge which di-
viileN the ( I rent liaoiN from the I'acitic wa
tern, reucheN b'ort Hall, by wav of the I'ort-
neiif river, in u dmtaiice of probably HAy
milen, or two and a half dayn' journey foi
wngoiiM. An examination of the great laku
which i« the outlet of tliit riv«r, and the
principal feature of geogra|ihical interest in
the buiiin, waH one of the main objeets ron-
teinplated in the general plan of our survey,
and I accordin^jly deleriniiied at thiM place
t» leave the road, and, after having com-
|ileied a recoiinoiiixaiice of the lake, regain
It HiibHe(|ueiitly at l''ort Hall. Hut our little
Htock of proviHions had again become ex
treinely low ; we hud only dried meat nuflk
cicnt lor one meal, and our supply of Hour
and other comforta was entirely nxhaunted.
I therefore immediately dispatched one of
the |iarly, Henry I^ice, with a note to Car-
son, at Kort Hall, directing him to load a
pack horse with whatever could be obtained
there in the way of |irovi!iionN, and ondeaTOi
to overtake nio on tho river. In tho mean
time, we had picked up along the road two
tolerably well-grown calves, which would
have becoino food for wolves, and which
had probably been lel\ by some of the earli-
er emigrants, none of those we had met hav-
ing made any claim to them ; and on theae
1 mainly relied for support during our cir-
cuit to the lake.

In sweeping around tho point of tho moun-
tain which runs down into tho bend, the
river here pauses between perpendicular
walla of basalt, which always fix the atten-
tion, from the regular form in which it oc-
curs, and its perfect distinctness from the
surrounding rocks among which it has been
placed. 'I'lie iiiouiitain, which is rugged
and steep, and, by our measurement, 1,400
feet above the river directly opposite the
place of our halt, is called the Sheep rock
— probably because a flock of the common
mountain sheep (oris montana) had boon
seen on the craggy point.

As we were about resuming our march in
tho afternoon, 1 was attracted by tho singu-
lar appearance of an isolated hill with a
concave summit, in the plain, about two
miles from the river, and turned off towarda
it, while the camp proceeded on its way to
the southward in search of tho lake. I
found the thin and stony soil of the plain
entirely underlaid by the basalt which fornu

Ii'l lliiil
Ilii Itir
|i>(ii III'

NVITU

■loek,
|lii> riv-
iii .1
y of
n"h (li-
rir w«
I'orl.
y flAy
Ini-y fill
lit laku
ikI th«
|)reat in
tN rnii-
urrey,
» plaoH
a com-
ri-i;ajn
jr littU
me e»
lit nuA
of floui
aiiHted.
uiio of
to Car-
load a
Ittninod
idvavoi
o mean
lad two
I would
I which
10 earli-
let hay-
n these
Dur oir-

IMI.J

CAl'T. KIIKMONT'S NAUU/VIIVK.

the rivi^r walU ; and when I rnanhnd th«
iiniuliliorliiMid III' thn hill, ihit •iirliwn itf ihii
plmii wdM mill into rii«|ii«)iit tUaurita and
uhaaiMN i>l till) aanit) ■roriuliiil voIi'uiiki rook,
Iriiiii liirly to aixty lfi!l dtti>|t, hut whioh
Uiurii wiia nut huIIIi'dmiI liitht to pLMintriilf
iintiri)ly, and wliu'li I hitd not liiiin to dn-
Mi'ttiid, Arriviul ul ihii Niiiiiniit of tho lull,
I I'lMiiid lliiit il trriiiinali'd in ii viiry iicirnct
oialur, ol' an uval, or iiitarly circular I'oriii,
300 |aci'N ill circuiiil'itri'iicc, and 00 lent ut
Iho K>''*>ttitat dct|)th. Tliv wallii, wliiuh wuri;
ptrlitctly vurtical, and diN|ioi«ud likn iiianon-
ry in u very ruifular manner, vvuni coin|iim-
«d 1)1 a ltrowii-ooloni(| iM-oriacitouN liivit,i!>i-
ditiitly tliu production oC a inodurn volcano,
and luvin^all tliu a|ipcaranci) ol' tliu li|/liti)r
aeoru'M'oiiH lavaa of Mount .Mtiia, Vi'hu<
viuM, an*l other vuicanocM. 'tin) I'acua ol'
the walla wore ri'ddiMicd and ^lavtud liy tho
lirx. III which they had hccii inidtvd, and
winch had liilt thum cuntortud and Iwiatcd
hy itM violent action.

Our route diirini; the afternoon waa a lit-
tle rou^h, heinK (in the dirc(;tion wu hud
taken) over a volcanic iilain, where our pro-
j^reriN waa Homctiiiica ohntructnil hy fiNaurcM,
and hiack heds coinpoaud of franmcnta of
tho rock. On hoth aidva, the mountaina ap-
peared very hrokon, bit tolerably well tim-
bered.

Aiifi;ust '20. — t/ro8»inK ^ point of rid^jo
which makes in to the river, wo fell upon
it B^'iiiii before sunset, uiid encamjied on the
ri^lit bank, opposite to the encampment of
three lod^'c.i of Snake IndtaiiN. They vinit-
ed UM during tho oveiiiii^, and we obtiiined
from tliein a Hinall quantity of roots of dif-
reri-nt kinds, in exchange i'or^^oods. Among
thorn waM a sweet root of very pleasant lla-
vor, having somewhat the laMte id' preserved
(|uiiice. My ondcavortt to become acquaint-
ed with the plants which furnish to the In-
diana a portion of their Hupport were only
gradually successful, and after long and per-
severing attention ; and even after obtain-
ing, 1 did not succeed in prcHorviiig them
until they could be satiNlactorily determined.
In this portion of the journey, I found this
particular root cut up into such small pieces,
that it waa only to be identified by its taste,
wiiuii the bulb was met with in perfect form
among the Indians lower down on tho Co-
lumbia, among whom it is the highly cele-
brated kamds. It was long afterwards, on
our return through Upper California, that I
found the plant itself in bloom, which I sup-
posed to furnish the kamas root, {camassia
esculenta.) The root diet had a rather
mournful eiTect at the commencement, and
one of the calves was killed this evening
for food. The animals fared well on rushes.

August 27. — The morning was cloudy,
with appearance of rain, and the thermome-

tor at aunriae at 90^^ Makintr >•> unuaually
narly atari, wu eroaiii'd thu rivar at a uoimI
ford . unil. following for aliitut lltrne hour*
a trail which led along tho bottom, we ('n-
lered a lahyrinth of hilU below the main
riilge, and halted to noon in tho ravimi ol a
pretty little alreaiii, timbered with cotton-
wood of a large ni/.e, aah-lnavitil ntaiile,
Willi cherry and other nhruhby trurn. I'lio
bu/y weather, which had preventeil iiny
very extended views kinco eiilerini( ihu
(iieen river \ alley, began now to diaaiqiear.
There waa a Hlight rain in the earlni pirt
of the day, ami at noon, when the tbeniio-
meter had riKcn lo 7U.& ', we hul a bnglil
sun, with blue nky and acuttered niniult.
According to the barometer, our halt here
among the hillt w.-is at an elevation of 0,320
feet. ('roHMing a dividing ridge iii tho af-
li^rnoon, wu followed down another little
Hear river tributary, to the point where it
eini^rgi^d (Ml an open green Hat among the
liilU, timbiyed with groves, and bordered
with cann thiirkets, hut without water. A
pretty little rivulet, coining out of the hill
I side, and overhung by tall lloweiiiig pl;inta
I of a speeieH I had not hitherto Neon, fur-
nibbed us with a good camping |ilace. Thu
evening was cloudy, the teinpeiaturu at
I sunset GO \ and thu elevation 5,110 feet.
I Among the plants occurring along thu line
I of road during the day, epincttv.s ilm prat'
I rnn (grindelia squarrosa) was in consnlera*
hie abundance, and is among the very lew
plants remaining in bloom — the whole coun-
try having now an autumnal a|)pearance,
in the crisped and yellow plants, and dried-
iip grasses. Many cranes woro seen dur-
ing the day, with u few antelope, very shy
and wild.

Aitffust 38. — During thu night we had a
thunder storm, with moderate rain, which

ry clear,
Leaving
our encampment at the Cane spring, and
quitting thu trail on which wu had been
travelling, and which would probably have
alForded us a good road to the lake, we
crossed some very deep ravines, and, in
about an hour's travelling, again reached
the river. Wo were now ,in a valley five
or six miles wide, between mountain
ranges, which, about thirty miles below,,
appeared to close up and terminate the val-
ley, leaving for the river only a very nar-
row pass, or canon, behind which we ima-
gined that we should find the broad waters
of tho lake. We made the usual halt at
the mouth of a small clear stream, having
a slightly mineral taste, (perhaps of salt,)
4,760 «3et above the gulf. In the afternoon
we climbed a very steep sandy hill ; and,
after a slow and winding day's march of 37
miles, encamped at a slough on the river.

has made the air this morning verj

tho thermometer being at &5^. Leaving

(• •

• l<f

<^5l

'Mr,
fit

CAPT. FRB^MONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1843.

I %■■ .4^

w ■*;

There were great q\iantitics of geeao and
(lucks, of which only a few were shot ; the
liKtiiin.s having probahly made them very wild.
'I'he men empl()yed themselves in fishing,
hui caught nothing. A skunk, {inrphitix
Afiiericana,) which was killed in the after-
noon, made a supper for one of the messes.
'Iiic rivor is bordered occasionally with
(i( Ids of cane, which we regarded as an in-
di'-alion of our approach to a hike country.
We had frequent showers of rain during the
night, with thunder.

Auii;u.Hl 29. — The thermometer at 8unri«*>
was 5^\ with air from the NW., and dark
rainy clouds moving ou the horizon ; rain
squalls and bright sunshine by intervals. I
rode ahead witji Uasil to explore the conn-
try, and, continuing about three miles along
the river, turned directly off on a trail run-
ning towards three marked gaps in the bor-
dering range, where the mountains ap-
peared cut through to their bases, towards
which .iie river plain rose gradually. Put-
ting our horses into a gallop on some fresh
tracks which showed very plainly in the
wet path, we came suddenly upon a oiim!!
party of Shoshonee Indians, who had fallen
into the trail from the north. We could
only communicate by signs : but they
made us understand that the road through
the chain was ^ very excellent one, lead-
ing into a broad valley which ran to
the southward. We halted to noon at
what may be called the gate of the pass ;
on either side of which were huge moun-
tains of rock, between which stole a little
pure water stream, with a margin just suf-
ficiently large for our passage. From the
river, the plain had gradually risen to an
altitude of 5,500 feet, and, by meridian
observation, the latitude of the entrance
was 42°.

In the interval of our usual ht',it, several
of us wancli^red along up the stream to ex-
amine the pass more at leisure. Within
the ga e, the rocks receded a little back,
leaving a very narrow, but most beautiful
valley, through which the little stream
wound its way, hidden by different kinds of
trees and shrubs — aspen, maple, willow,
cherry, and elder ; a fine verdure of smooth
short grass spread over the remaining space
to the l>"vp sides of the rocky wal's. These
were ot a blue limestone, which constitutes
the mountain here ; and opening directly on
the grassy bottom were several curious
C3 es, which appeared to be inh..oited by
root diggers. On one side was gathered a
heap of leaves for a bed, and they were
dry, apen, and pleasant. On the .oofs of
the caves I remarked bituminous exuda-
tions from the rock.

The trail was an excellent one for pack
horses; but, as it sometimes crossed a

shelving point, to avoid the shrubbery we
were obliged in seveVal jilaceH to open a
road for the carriage through the wood. A
squaw on horseback, accompanied by five
or six dogs, entered the pass in liie after-
U'loii ; but was too much terrified at fiiuling
li' -If in such unexpected company to
make any pause for conversation, and hur-
ried off at a good pace — being, of couise,
no further disturbed than by an accelerating
shout. She wa.s well and showily dressed,
and was probably going to a village encamp-
ed somewhere near, and evidently did not
belong to the tribe of root difff^crs. We
had now entered a country inhabued by
these people ; an<l as in the course of our
voyage we shall frequently meet with them
in various stages of existence, it will ha
well to inform you that, scattered over tho
great region west of the Rocky mountains,
and south of the Great Snake river, are
numerous Indians whose subsistence is al-
most solely derived from roots and seeds,
and suck small animals as chance and great
good fortune sometimes bring within their
icach. They are miserably poor, xrmed
only with bows and arrows, or club." , and,
as the country they inhabit is aiiP' .^t desti-
tute of game, they have no means of ob-
taining better arms. In the northern part
of the region just mentioned, they live gen-
erally in solitary families ; and farther to
the south, ihey are leathered together in
villages. Those wlu five together in vil-
lages, strengthened '<y association, are in
exclusive possession of the more genial
and richer parts of the country ; while tht
others are driven to the ruder mountains,
and to the more inhospitable parts of the
country. But by simply observing, in ac-
companying us along our road, you will be-
come better acquainted with these people
than we could make you in any other than
a very long description, and you will find
them worthy of your interest.

Roots, seeds, and gras-o every vegetable
that affords any nourishment, and every
living animal thing, insect or worm, they
eat. Nearly approaching to the lower ani-
mal creation, their sole employment is to
obtain food ; and they are constantly oc-
cupied in a struggle to support existence.

The most remarkable feature of the pass
is the Standing rock, which has fallen from
the cliffs, above, and standing perpendicularly
near the middle of the valley, presents it-
self like a watch tower in the pass. It
will give you a tolerably correct idea of the
character of the scenery in this country,
where generally the mountains rise abruptly
up from comparatively unbroken plains and
level valleyc ; but it will entirely fail in
representing the picturesque beauty of this
delightful place, where a green valley, full

[1843.

1843.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAURATIVE.

il)t>ery we
liii|iiiiiy to
, uikI hiir-

Ot" coil ISO,

celerutiiif,'
y (IrcBsed,
c encainp-
y did not
(crs. We
tibiicd by
rso of our
with them
it will bs
over th»
mountains,
river, are
ence is al-
and seeds,
! and great
ithin iheir
or, irnued
lub.a , and,
t desti-
lans of ob-
rthern part
Y live gen-
farther to
ogether in
ther in viU
ion, are in
ore genial
while tht
mountains,
arts of the
ing, in ac-
ou will be-
3se people
other than
i will find

vegetable
md every
'orm, they
lower ani-
nent is to
laiitly oc-
;istence.
f the pass
alien from
ndicularly
esents it-
pass. It
iea of the

country,
B abruptly
plains and
ly fail in
ty of this
alley, full

of filiaije, and a hundred yard.s wide, con-
trai'ts with naked crags tliat spirr up into a
blue liiK! of pinuiicles 3,000 feet above,
HOinetiines crested with cedar and piuo, and
Bomcliiiics rugged and bare.

Tbo dcleuliori that wo met with in open-
ing llic rfiad, and perhaps a '.villin'Mioss t.i
liiitror on the way, made tho aflernoou'.s
travel short ; and about two miles from the
entrance we passed through another gate,
and encamped on the stream at the junction
(if a Hub; fork from the southward, around
niiicli tiio mountains stooped more gently
down, forming a small open cove.

As ir, was still early in the afternoon,
Basil and myself in one direction, and Mr.
Prouss in another, set out to explore the
country, and ascended different neighboring
peaks, ill the hope of seeing some indica-
tions of the lake ; bui though our elevation
atl'orded magnificent views, the eye raug-
ina: over a l.mg extent of Bear river, with
tlu! broad and fertile Cache valley in the
(iirectidu of our search, was only to be
scon a bod of apparently impracticible
uioantains. Among these, the trail we had
licen following turned sharjjly to the north-
ward, and it began to be doubtful if it would
not lead us away from the object of our
destination ; but I nevertheless determined
to keep it, in the belief that it would event-
ually bring us right. A squall of rain drove
us nut of the mountain, and it was late
when we reached the camp. The evening
closed in with frequent showers of rain,
with some lightning and thunder.

August 30. — We bad constant thunder
storms during the night, but in the morn-
inir the clouds were sinking to the horizon,
and the air was clear and cold, with the
thermometer at sunrise at 39°. Elevation
by i.a'ometer 5,580 feet. We -were xn mo-
tion eaily, continuing up the little stream
wittiout encountering any ascent where a
liiii.se wou'd not easily gallcp. and, crossing
a siiirjit dividinjf gi-ound at tb*; summit, de-
sceiuie] upon a small str^'im, • '')ng which
we continued on the sam:3 excftilient road.
In ridin', through the pas: , numercMW« cranes
were seen ; and prairie hen?, or j^rouso,
{bonasia umbclbi.i,) whic'.i lately had been
rare, were very abundant.

This little affluent brought us to a larger
stream, down which we travelled throiijfh a
mo;e open bottom, on a level road, where
licavily-h'den wagons could pass wK^out
obstacle. The hills on the right grew

II • of?

lower, and, on entering a more open coun-
try, we discovered a Shoshonee village ;
and being desirous to obtain information,
and purchase from them some roots and
berries, we halted on trie river, which was
lightJy wcoded with cherry, willow, maple,
service berry, and aspen. A meridian ob-

servation of the sun, which I obtained here,
gave 12 ^ 1 r 2d" for our latilule, and the
barometer indicated a height of .'),!7(» leet.
A number of Indians came iiiiniediately
over to visit us, and several men were sent
to the village with good.s, toiiaccu, knives,
cloth, veriiulioii, and the; usual tniik(<t.s, to
excliaiigo for provisions. IJut llicy had no
game of any kind ; and it wa.s diiiicult to
obtain any roots from tliem, as they were
miserably poor, and had but little to sjiare
from their winter stock of provisions. .Sev-
eral of the Indians drew aside their blankets,
showing me their lean and bony figures ;
and I would not any longer tempt them with
a display of our merchandise to part with
their wretched subsistence, when they gave
as a reason that it would expose them to
temporary starvation. A great portion of
the region inhaiiited b.- t!iis nation formerly
abounded in game ; tb. i." (falo ranging about
in herds, as we had found them on the east-
ern waters, and the plains dotted with scat-
tered bands of vnteiopo ; but so rapidly
have they disappeared within a few years,
that now, as wo journeyed aloiiL'. an occa-
sional buffalo skull and a few wild antelope
were all that remained of the aiiuiidance
which had covered the country with animal
life.

The extraordinary rapidity witli which
the buffalo is disappearing from our territo-
ries will not appear sur|irising when we re-
iTiember the great scale on wuich their de-
struction is yearly carried on. With incon-
siderable exceptions, the business of the
American tial.ug posl!» is carried on in their
skins; every year the Indian villages inak*
new lodges, for which the skin of the buffa-
lo furnishes the material ; and in that por-
tion of t\w country where they arc still
found, the InW ms derive their entire sup-
port from them, and slaughter them with
a thouglitbess arM* abominable extravagance.
Like t^ie Iwliar«« themselves, they have
been ;i characteristic of the Great Weat ;
and as, like them, they arc visibly diminish-
ing, it will be interesting to throw a glance
back*ifard through the last twenty year»,
and give some account of their former dis-
tribution through the country, and the limit
<4' their western range.

The information is derived principally
from Mr. Fitzpatrick, supported by my own
personal knowledge and acquaintance with
the country. Our knowledge does not go
farther hack than thf spring of 1824, at
which time the buffalo were spread in im-
mense numbers over the Green river and
Bear river valleys, and through all the
country lying between the Colorado, or
Green river of the gulf of California, and
Lewis's fork of the Columbia river ; the
meridian of Fort Hall then forming the

■K '

' k' I

^:y

«1
0i

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAUHATIVE.

[1843.

1843.]

r'.: V ■ -

$■.

western limit ef their rangu. The buflUlo
then remained for many years in that coun-
try, and frequently moved down the valley
ot'^the Columbia, on both sides of the river
as far as the Fis/iing falls. Uelow this
point they never descended in any numners.
About the year 1834 or 1835 they bepan to
diminish very ra()iiiiy, and continued to de-
crease until 1838 or 1810, when, with the
country wc have just described, they en-
tirely abandoned all the waters of the Pa-
cific north of Lewi' 's fork of the (Jolumbia.
At that time, the Flathead Indians were in
the habit of finding their bulfalo on the
heads of Salmon river, and other streams of
the Columbia ; but now they never meet
with tliem farther west than the three forks
of the Missouri or the plains of the Yellow-
stone river.

In the course of our journey it will be re-
marked that the bufl'alo have not so entirely
abandoned the waters of the Pacific, in the
Rocky-mountain region south of the Sweet
Water, as in the country north of the (Jreat
Pass. This partial distribution can only be
accounted for in the great pa.storal beauty
of that country, which bears marks of hav-
ing long been one of their favorite haunts,
and by the fact that the white hi ntcrs have
more frequented the northern than the south-
ern region — it being north of the South Pass
that the hunters, trappers, and traders, have
had their rendezvous for many years past ;
and from that section also the greater por-
tion of the beaver and rich furs were taken,
although always the most dangerous as well
as the most profitable hunting ground.

In that region lying between the Green
or Colorado river and the head waters of
the Hio del Norte, over the Yampah, Koo-
yah, White, and Grand rivers — all .if which
are the waters of the Colorado — the buffalo
never extended so far to the westward as
they did on the waters of the Columbia ; and
only in one or two instances have they been
known to descend as far west as the mouth
of White river. In travelling through the
country west of the Rocky mountains, ob-
servation readily led me to the impression
that the buffalo had, for the first time, cross-
ed that range to the waters of the Pacific
only a few years prior to the period we are
considering ; and in this opinion I am sus-
tained by Mr. Fitzpatrick. and the older
trappers in that country. In the region west j
of the Rocky mountains, we never meet with
any of the ancient vestiges which, through- 1
ou:, all the country lying upon their eastern '
waters, are found in the great highways,
continuous for hundreds of miles, always i
several inches and sometimes several feet in
depth, which the buffalo have made in cross-
ing from one nver to another, or in travers-
ing the mountain ranges. The Snake In-

dians, more particularly those low down up-
on Lewis's fork, have always been very
grateful to the American trappers, for the
great kindness (as they frequently expressed
it) which they did to them, in driving the
buffalo so low down the Columbia river.

The extraordinary abundance of the buf-
falo on the east side of the Rocky moun-
tains, and their extraordinary diminution,
will be made clearly evident from the fol-
lowing statement : At any time between the
years 18'.24 and 183U, a traveller might start
from any given point south or north in the
Rocky mountain range, journeying by the
most direct route to the Missouri river ;
and, during the wh(de distance, his road
would be always among large bands of buf-
falo, which would never be out of his view
until he arrived almost within sight of the
abodes of civilization.

At this time, the buffalo occupy but a
very limited space, principally along the
eastern base of the Rocky mountains, some-
times extending at their southern extremity
to a considerable distance into the plums
between the Platte and Arkansas rivers,
and along the eastern frontier of New Mex-
ico as far south as Texas.

The following statement, which I owe to
the kindness of Mr. Sanford, a partner in
the American Fur Company, will further
illustrate this subject, by extensive know-
ledge acquired during several years of travel
through the region inhabited by the buffalo :

"The total amount of robes aniiualiv
traded by ourselves and others will not be
found to differ much from the following
statement :

American Fur Company,
Hudson's Bay Company, .
All other companies, probably

KobcN.

70,000
10,000
10,000

Making a total of ... . 90,000

as an average annual return for the last
eight or ten years.

" In the northwest, the Hudson's Bay
Company purchase from the Indians but a
very small number — their only market being
Canada, to which the cost of transportation
nearly equals the produce of the furs ; and
it is only within a very recent period tii;U
they have received buffalo robes in trade ;
and out of the great number of buffalo an-
nually killed throughout the extensive re-
gions inhabited by the Camanchesand other
kindred tribes, no robes whatever are fur-
nished for trade. During only four months
of the year, (from November until March,)
the skins arc good for dressing ; those ob-
tained in the remaining eight months being
valueless to traders ; and the hides of bulls
are never taken off or dressed as robes at
any season. Probably not more than one-

[1843.

down up-
een very
i, for Iho
expressed
iviiijT the
river.

the buf-
ky moun-
miiiutiui),

the fol-
tween the
light start
rth in the
g by the
uri river ;
his road
<l.s of buf-
lii.s view
ht of the

py but a
alung the
ins, some-

extreniity
tlie plums
as riveiKS,
Sew Mex-

1 I owe to
partner in
ill further
ive Ivnow-
k-sof trav(!l
iie bullUlo :
i annuullv
vill not. be
! following

ItoboH.

70,000
10,000
10,000

1843.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

90,000
ir the last

son's Bay
ians but a
irkel being
asportation

furs ; and
)eriod that

in trade ;
bull'alo an-
ensive re-
sand other
r are fur-
lur months
til March,)

those ob-
nths being
es of bulls
3 robes at

than one-

third of the .skins are taken from thoDnimals
killed, even when they are in good season,
i),c labor of preparing and dressing the
robcM being very great ; and it is seldom
that a lodge trades more than twenty skins
111 a year. It is during the summer months,
and in the early part of autumn, that the
greatest number of bulfalo are killed, and
yet at this lime a skin is never taken for the
|mr|i(>se of trade."

from these data, which are certainly
liiniK'd, and decidedly within bounds, the
reader is left to draw his own inference of
the immense number annually killed.

In IHl'i, I found the Sioux Indians of the
r|)])er I'latte demontes, as their French
traders expressed it, with the failure of the
buli'alo ; and in the foHowing year, large
viilai;es from the Upi)er Missouri came over
tu tlie mountains at the heads of the Platte,
in search of them. The rapidly progressive
I'aiiiire of their principal and almost their
only means of subsistence has created great
alarm naiong them ; and at this time there
are only two modes presented to them, by
which they see a good prospect for escaping
starvation : one of these is to rob the settle-
nients along the frontier of the States ; and
the other is to form a league between the
various tribes of the Sioux nation, the
('lieyennes, and Arapahoes, and make war
atraiiihi the Crow nation, in order to take
iVom them their country, which is now the
bust bulfalo country in the west. This plan
they now have in consideration ; and it
would prol- ibly be a war of extermination,
as tiio (Jrows have long been advised of this
stale of aft.iirs, and say that they are per-
fectly prepared. These are the best war-
riors ill the Rocky mountains, and are now
allied with the Snake Indians , and it is
l>rol)able that their combination would ex-
tend iibclf to the Utahs, who have long been
engaged in war against the Sioux. It is in
tills section of country that my observation
("oriufily led me to recommend the estab-
lisliiiioiit of a military post.

The farther course of our narrative will
give fuller and more detailed information
of the present disposition of the buffalo in
iho country we visited.

Among the roots we obtained here, I
eouKl distinguish only five or six different
kinds ; and the supply of the Indians whom
we met consisted principally of yampah,
{anetlaun, graveolens,) tobacco root, (Vale-
riana,) and a large root of a species of
thistle, (circium Virgimanum,) which now
is occasionally abundant, and is a very
agreeably flavored vegetable.

We had been detained so long at the vil-
lage, that in the afternoon we made only
lye miles, and encamped on the same river
after a day's journey of 19 miles. The In-

dians informed us that we should reach the
big salt water after having slept twice and
travelling in a south direction. The stream
had lujre entered a nearly level plain or
valley, of good soil, eight or ten miles broad,
to which no termination was to be seen,
and lying between ranges of mountains
which, on the right, were grassy and smooth,
unbroken by rock, and lovvf^r than <m tho
left, where they were rocky and bald, in-
creasing in height to the .southward. On
the creek were fringes of young willows,
older trees being rarely found on the plains,
where the Indians burn the surface to pro-
duce better grass. Seveial magpies {pica
Hudsonica) were seen on the creek this
afternoon ; and a rattlesnake was killed
here, the first which had been seen since
leaving the eastern plains. Our camp to-
night had such a hungry appearance, that I
suffered the little cow to be killed, and di-
vided the roots and berries among the peo-
ple. A number of Indians from the village
encamped near.

The weather the next morning was clear,
the thermometer at sunrise at 44 ^.5, and,
continuing down the valley, in about five
miles we followed the little creek of our
encampment to its junction with a larger
stream, called Roseaux, or Reed river. Im-
mediately opposite, on the right, the range
was gathered into its highest peak, sloping
gradually low, ant? running off to a point
apparently some forty or fifty miles below.
Between this (now become the valley stream)
and the foot of the mountains, we journeyed
along a handsome sloping level, which fre-
quent springs from the hills made occasion-
ally miry, and halted to noon at a swampy
spring, where there were good grass and
abundant rushes. Here the river was forty
feet v/ide, with a considerable current ; and
the valley a mile and a half in breadth ; the
soil being generally good, of a dark color,
and apparently well adapted to cultivation.
The day had become bright and pleasant,
with the thermometer at 71°. By observa-
tion, our latitude was 41° 59' 31", and the
elevation above the sea 4,670 feet. On our
left, this afternoon, the range at long inter-
vals formed itself into peaks, appearing to
terminate, about forty miles below, in a
rocky cape ; beyond which, several others
were faintly visible ; and we were disap-
pointed when at every little rise "we did not
see the lake. Towards evening, our way
was somewhat obstructed by fields of ar!e-
misia, which began to make their appear-
ance here, and we encamped on the Roseaux,
the water of vhich had acquired a decidedly
salt taste, nearly opposite to a canon gap ia
the mountains, through which the Bear river
enters this valley. As we encamped, the
night set in dark and cold, with heavy rain;

'■> ♦?

m
mi

CAPT. VHEMONTS NAIUIATIVE.

[1843.

m-'.-'

I ■>

SI, -f ♦= V ■

'.i?

and the artcmisia, which was hero nur only
wood, was so wet that it would not hiirii.
A poor, nearly starved dog, with a wiiutid
in his side from a ball, euine to the camp,
and reioaiiiod with us until the winter, when
he nicl a very unexpected fate.

Scfi/ciii/wr 1. — Tlio morning was squally
and eold ; ihe sky sealtcred over witli
clouds ; and the night liad been so unconi-
forfalile, that we were not on the road until
b o'cltick. 'Travelling between Hoseanx
and li<iir rivers, wo continued fo descend
the valley, which gradually exj)anded, as we
advanced, into a level ))lain of good soil,
about -25 miles iti breadth, between moun-
tains 3,000 and 4,000 feet high, rising sud-
denly to the eUuids, which all day rested uium
the peaks. These gleamed out in the occa-
sional sunlight, mantled with the snow which
had fallen upon them, while it rained on us
in the valley below, of which the elevation
here was about 1,500 feet above the sea.
The country before us plainly indicated that
we were apj)roaching the lake, though, as
the ground where we were travelling af-
forded no elevated point, nothing of it as yet
could be seen ; and at a great distance
ahead were several isolated mountains, re-
sembling islands, which they were after-
wards found to be. On this upper plain the
grass was everywhere dead ; and among
the shrubs with which it was almost exclu-
sively occupied, (artemisia being the most
abundant,) frequently occurred handsome
clusters of several species of dictcria in
bloom. Purshia tridentata was among the
frequent shrubs. Descending to the bot-
toms of Bear river, we found good grass for
the animals, and encamped about 300 yards
above the mouth of Roseaux, which here
makes its junction, without communicating
arty of its salty taste to the main stream,
of which the water remains perfectly pure.
On the river are only willow thickets,(5a/jj:
longifulia,) and in the bottoms the abundant
plants are canes, solidago, and helianthi,
tnd along the banks of Roseaux are fields
o{ malva rotundifolia. At sunset the ther-
mometer was at 54"^. 5, and the evening
clear and calm ; but I deferred making any
use of it until 1 o'clock in the morning,
when I endeavored to obtain an emersion
of the first satellite ; but it was lost in a
bank of cjouds, which also rendered our
usu;il observations indifferent.

Among the useful things which formed a
portion of our equipage, was an India-rub-
ber boat, 18 feet long, made somewhat in
the form of a bark canoe of the northern
lakes. The sides were formed by two air-
tight cylinders, eighteen inches in diameter,
connected witii others forming the bow and
stern. To lessen the danger from accidents
to the boat, these were divided into four

dilTerent compartments, and the lerior
spacu was sufliciently largo to contain five
or six persons and a (utnsideralde weight of
baggage. The Koseaux being too deep to
bu forded, our boat was filled with air, and
in about one hour all the equipage of the
camj), carriage and gun included, ferried
across. Thinking that iJori.ins in the course
of the day we might reach the outlet at the
lake, I got into tiie boat with Hasil Lajeu.
nesse, and paddled dosvn Hear river, intend-
ing at night to rejoin the party, which in
the mean time proceeded on its wiiy. Tlio
river was from sixty to one hundred yards
broad, and the water so deep, that even on
the comparatively shallow points we could
not reach the bottom with 15 feet. On
either side were alternately low bottoms
and willow points, with an occasional big'
prairi' ; and for five or six hours we fol-
lowed slowly the winding course of the
river, which crej)t along with a sluggish
current among frequent detours several
miles arcumd, sometimes running for a con-
siderable distance directly up the valley.
As we were stealing quietly down the
stream, trying in vain to get a shot at a
strange large bird that was numerous among
the willows, but very shy, we came unex-
pectedly upon several famdies of Root Dig-
gers, who were encamj)ed among the ruslica
on the shore, and appeared very.busy about
several weirs or nets which had been rude-
ly made of canes and rushes for the jiurpose
of catching fish. They were very much
startled at our appearance, but we soon es-
tablished an acquaintance; and finding thiit
they had some roots, I promised to send
some men with goods to trade with them
They had the usual very large heads, re-
markable among the Digger tribe, with ni;it-
ted hair, and were almost entirely nakeil ,
looking very poor and miserable, as if their
lives had been spent in the rushes where
they were, beyond which they seeivied to
have very little knowledge of any lliinir.
From the few words we could conijireliciid,
their language was that of the Sn ike In-
dians.

Our boat moved so heavily, that we li;id
made very little progress ; and, finding th;it
it would be impossible to overtake the ciiini ,
as soon as we were sufficiently far bolou
the Indians, we put to the shore near a liiifh
prairie bank, hauled up the boat, and cac/ud
our effects in the willows. Ascending the
bank, we found that our desultory labor hurt
brought us only a few mdes in a direct lino ;
and, going out into the prairie, after a scareli
we found the trail of the camp, which was
now nowhere in sight, but had followed tiie
general course of the river in a large cirru-
lar sweep which it makes at this place. 'I'lie
sun was about three hours high when we

:.^

ofll
,lllp
tudt

wit

iher

the

era

a dii

mile

was

anin

On
oth

[1843.

i843.1

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAHIIATIVE.

iirior
iitiiiii five
wcifrlit of

I) (lt'L'|) to

I iiir, !ind
S,'!' (if the
il, (iiiiioil
llio I'ourse
tli't at tlit>
sil Ijiijoii.
Dr, intend'
which in
ay. Tilt-
red yards
It even on
we CDuld
I'eet. On
l)ottnm8
ional hi^f''
rs we M-
sc ol' tiie
slug-git: li
•s several
i'or a con-
lie valley,
down the
.sl\ot at a
ous aiiionjf
iiine iinex-
■ Roof Dig.
[the rushes
,husy ahout
heea rudc-
.he i)ur])ose
very much
\e soon e^--
findinjr that
led to send
with them
heads, ic-
, with nial-
•ely naked ,
, as if their
shes where
seet'ied to
any ihiiiir.
iHuiireheiid,
Snike ]i)-

lat we had
finding th.it
e the ciiiii]:,
y far helow
near a lugfi
and car hi (I
cndiujj tlie
y labor iiart
direct lino ;
:er a seaicii
which was
dlowed the
arge circn-
jlace. The
I when we

found the trail ; and as our pcoplo had pass-
ed early in the day, we had tho prospect of
a vigorous walk before us. Immediately
where we landed, the high arable plain on
which wo had boon travelling for several
diiys past tcrminated^in extensive low flats,
very generally occupied by salt marshes, or
licds of shallow lakes, whence tho water
hid in most places evaporated, leaving their
Ii:u'd surface encrusted with a shining white
ri.'.si(liiuni, and absolutely covered with very
small unioalre shells. As we advanced, the
v\ hole country around us assumed this ap-
pearance ; and there was no other vegeta-
tion than the shrubby chenopodiaceous and
other ajiparently saline plants, which were
confined to the rising grounds. Here and
there on the river bank, which was raised
like a levee above the flats through which
it ran, was a narrow border of grass and
short black-burnt willows ; the stream being
very deep and sluggish, and sometimes 600
to 800 feet wide. After a rapid walk of
about 15 miles, we caught sight of the camp
fires among clumps of willows just as the
sun had sunk behind the mountains on the
west side of the valley, filling the clear sky
with a golden yellow. These last rays, to
us so precious, could not have revealed a
more welcome sight. To the traveller and
the hunter, a camp fire in the lonely wilder-
ness is always cheering ; and to ourselves,
ill our present situation, after a hard march
in a region of novelty, approaching the de-
bouches of a river, in a lake of almost fabu-
lous reputation, it was doubly so. A plen-
tiful supper of aquatic birds, and the inter-
est of the scene, soon dissipated fatigue ;
and I obtained during the night emersions
of the second, third, and fourth satellites of
.lupiter, with observations for time and lati-
tude.

September 3. — The morning was clear,
with a light air from the north, and the
thenntmieter at sunrise at 45°. 5. At 3 in
tlic morning, Basil was sent back with sev-
eral men and horses lor the boat, which, in
a direct course across the flats, was not 10
miles distant; an '■» the mean time there
was a pretty .^pi>i of grass here for the
animals. The ground was so low that we
could not get high enough to see across the
river, on .iccount ot the willows ; but we
were t ^dendy in the vicinity of the lake,
and th» water fowl made this morning a
noise like thunder. A pelican {pflccanus
onocrutalus) was ';jlled as he passed by, and
many geese anJ ducks flew over the camp.
On the dry salt marsh here, is scarce any
other plant than salicornia herbacca.

In the afternoon the men returned with
the boat, bringing with them a small quan-
tity of roots, and some meat, which the
Indians hud told tliem was bear meat.

DeFcending the river for about three miles
in the afternoon, we found a bar to any
further travelling in that direction — the
stream being spread out in several branches,
and covering the low grounds with water,
where the miry nature of the bottom did
not permit any further advance. We were
evidently on the border of tho lake, al-
though the rushes and canes which covered
the marshes prevented any view ; and wo
accordingly encamped at tho little delta
which forms the mouth ot Bear river ; a
long arm of the lake stretching up to the
north between us and the opposite moun-
tains. The river was bordered with a
fringe of willows and canes, among which
were interspersed a few plants ; and scat-
tered about on the marsh was a species of
uniola, closely allied to U. spicata of our
sea coa^it. The whole morass was ani-
mated with multitudes of water fowl, which
appeared to be very wild — rising for the
space of a mile round about at the sound of
a gun, with a noise like distant thunder.
Several of the people waded out into the
marshes, and we had to-night a delicious
supper of ducks, geese, and plover.

Although the moon was bright, the night
was otherwise favorable ; and I obtained
this evening an emersion of tho first satel-
lite, with the usual observations. A mean
result, depending on various observations
made during our stay in the neighborhood,
places the mouth of the river in longitude
112'3 19' 30" west from Greenwich; lati-
tude 41° 30' 2a"; and, accordinjf to the
barometer, in elevation 4,200 leet above the
gulf of Mexico. The night was clear, with
considerable dew, which I had remarked
every night since the first of September.
The next morning, while we were prepar-
ing to start, Carson rode into the camp with
flour and a few other articles of light pro-
vision, suflScient for two or three days — a
scanty but very acceptable supply. Mr.
Fitzpatrick had not yet arrived, and pro-
visions were very scarce, and difficult to be
had at Fort Hall, which had been entirely
exhausted by the necessities of the emi-
grants. Ife brought me also a leiior lion)
Mr. ])wight, who, in company with several
emigrants, had reached that jiiace in ad-
vance of Mr. i''itzpatrick, and was al'«ul
continuing his jcmrnoy to Vancouver.

Returning about five miles up tiie river,
we were occu|)ied until nearly sunset in
crossing to lh(^ left bank— the stieaui, which
in the lust five or six miles of its v-ourso i«
very nu.ch narrower than above, being very
deep immediately at the banks ; and wc
had great difficulty in gi^uing our animals
over. The people w'lh the ba^'guge were
easily crossed in the boat, and we encamp-
ed on the left bank where we eruostd tU«

^;v

s:,;*

■ V : •

'«hS

■ ■ t, 'Vv'

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1843.

ti^"''

river. At sunset the thermometer was at
76'^, ''nd there was some rain durinfj the
night, with a thunder storm at a distance.

September 5. — Ueforo us was evidently
the hed of the lake, being a great salt marsh,

Cerfectly level and hare, whitened in places
y saline eflloresnenceH, with here and there
a pool «1 water, and havintr the appearance
of a very level sea shore at low tide. Im-
mediately alonff the river was a very nar-
row strip of vegetation, consisting of wil-
lows, lielianthi, roses, iiowerinp vines, and
grass ; bordered on the verge of the great
marsh by a fringe of singular plants, which
appear to be a shrubby salicorniu, ur a
genus allied to it.

About 12 miles to the southward was one
of those isolated mountains, now appearing
to be a kind of peninsula ; and towards this
we accordingly directed our course, as it
probably afforded a good view of the lake ;
but the deepening mud as we advanced
forced us to return toward the river, and
gain the higher ground at the foot of the
eastern mountains. Here we halted for a
few minutes at noon, on a beautiful little
stream of pure and remarkably clear water,
with a bed of rock in situ, on which was an
abundant water plant with a white blossom.
There was good grass in the bottoms ; and,
amidst a rather luxuriant growth, its banks
were bordered with a large showy plant,
{eupatorium purpvrcum,) which I here saw
for the first time. We named the stream
Clear creek.

We continued our way along the moun-
tain, having found here a broad plainly
beaten trail, over what was apparently the
shore of the lake in the fej)riiig : the ground
being high and firm, and the soil excellent
and covered with vegetation, among which
a leguminous plant \glijcyrrlnza lepidota)
was a characteristic plant. The ridge here
rises abruptly to the height of about 1,000
feet ; its face being very prominently mark-
ed with a massive stratum of n).se-colored
granular quartz, which is evidently an al-
tered sedimentary rock ; the lines of de-
position being very distinct. It is rocky
and sleep ; divided into several mountains ;
and the rain in the valley appears to be al-
ways snow on their summits at this season.
Near a remarkable rocky point of the
mountain, at a large spring of pure water,
were several hackriHtry trees, {cellu,) prob-
ably a new species, the berries still green ;
and a short distance t*rther, thickets of
Bumach, {rhus.)

On the plain here 1 noticed blackbirds
and grouse. In about seven miles from
Clear creek, the trail brought us to a plane
at the foot of the mciuntain where there
issued with considerable force ten or twelve
hot eprwgfc, iiighly impregnated with salt.

' In one of these, the thermometer stood at
130O, and in another at ISS^.S ; and tho
water, which spread in pools over tho low
ground, was colored red.*

At this olace tho trail wo had been follow-
ing turned to tho left, apparently with the
view of entering a gorge in tho mountain,
from which issued the principal fork of a
largo and comparatively well-timbered
stream, called Webor's fork. We accord-
ingly turned off towards the lake, and en-
camped ou this river, which was 100 to 160
feet wide, with high banks, and very clear
pure water, without the slightest indication
of salt.

September 6. — Leaving the encampment
early, we again directed our course Ibr tho
peninsular butts across a low shrubby plain,
crossing in tho way a slough-like creek with
miry banks, and wooded with thickets ol
thorn (cratirgus) which were loaded with
berries. This time we reached the butle
without any difficulty, and, ascending to the
summit, immediately at our feet beheld the
object of our anxious search — the waters of
the Inland Sea, stretching in still and soli-
tary grandeur far bcyonu the limit of our
vision. It was one of the great points of the
exploration ; and as we looked eagerly over
the lake in the first emotions of excited plea-
sure, 1 am doubtful if the followers of Balboa
felt more enthusiasm when, from the heights
of tho Andes, they saw for the first time the
great Western ocean. It was certainly a
magnificent object, and a noble terminus to
this part of our expedition ; and to travellers
so long shut up among mountain ranges, a
sudden view over the expanse of silent
waters had in it something sublime. Sever-
al large islands raised their high rocky heads
out of the waves ; but whether or not they
were timbered, was still left to onr imagina-
tion, as the distance was too great to deter-
mine if the dark hues upon them were wood-
land or naked rock. During the day the
clouds had been gathering black over the
mountains to the westward, and, while we
were looking, a storm burst down with sud-
den fury upon the lake, and entirely hid the
islands from our view. So far as we could
see, along the shores there was not a soli-

• .\n analysis of the red

earthy

matter de-

jKwited in the bed of the stream from the springs,

jjivos (he following result :

Peroxide of iron

. 33.50

Carbonate of magnesia .

. 2.40

(.'arlMinate of lime .

. .')0.43

Sulphate of lime .

. 2.00

Chloride of sodium

. 3.45

>Sil>ca and aiiimitt*

. 3.00

Water and looi

ftJiS

100.00

[1843.

tood at
and tho
the low

1843.1

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAERATIVK.

33.50
2.40

50.43
2.00
3.45
3.00
5.22

lary tree, and but little appearance of graas ;
anu on Weber's fork, a few miles below our
last encampment, tho timber was (ratlicrcd
into grove.H, and then disappeared entirely.
As this appeared to bo tho nearest point to
ihc luko wliero a suitable camp could be
found, wo directed our course to one of the
frrovcs, wliurc we found a handsome en-
campment, with pood grass and an ubun-
liiuice of rushes \equisetum hyeinalc). At
MUiHot, the thermometer was at 65°; the
livening clear and calm, with some cumuli.

S'liiember 7. — The morning was calm and
clear, with a temperature at sunrise of 39°.5.
Tlio day was spent in active preparation for
3iir intended voyage on the lake. On the
LMlge of the stream a favorable Hpf)t was se-
lected in a grove, and, fellinj,' the timber, we
made a strong coral, or horse pen, for the
aniuials, and a little fort for the peoole who
were to remain. We were now probably in
the country of tho Utah Indians, though none
reside upon the lake. The India-rubber boat
was repaired with prepared cloth and gum,
and tilled with air, in readiness for the next
day.

The provisions which Carson had brought
with him being now exhausted, and our
stock reduced to a small quantity of roots, 1
(letorinined to retain with mo only a suffi-
cient number of men for the execution of
our design ; and accordingly seven were
«ent back to Fort Hall, under the guidance
of Fran9oi8 Lajeunesse, who, liavmg been
for many years a trapper in the country, was
considered an experienced mountaineer.
Thoiiifh they were provided with good hor-
ses, and the road was a remarkably plain
one of only four days' journey for a horse-
man, they became bewildered (as we after-
wards learned), and, losing their way, wan-
dered about the country in parties of one or
two, reaching the fort about a week after-
wards. Some straggled in of themselves,
and the others were brought in by Indians
who had picked them up on Snake river,
about sixty miles below the fort, travelling
along the emigrant road in full march for
the Lower Columbia. The leader of this
adventurous party was Fran9ois.

Hourly barometrical observations were
made during the day, and, after departure of
tie party for Fort Hall, we occupied our-
selves in continuing our little preparations,
and in becoming acquainted with the coun-
try in the vicinity. The bottoms along the
river were timbered with several kinds of
willow, hawthorn, and fine cotton-wood trees
(populus canadensis) with remarkably large
leaves, and sixty feet in height by measure-
mitnl.

We formed now but a small family.
Witla Mr. Preuss and myself, Carson, Ber-
ttier, and Basil Lajeunesse, had been select-

ed for tho boat expedition— the first over at-
tempted on this interior sea ; and Badeau,
with Derosier, and Jacob (the colored man),
were to be lell in charge of tho camp. Wo
were favored with most delightful weather.
To-night there was a brilliant sunset of
golden orange and green, which left the
western sky clear and beautifully jiuro ; but
clouds in tho east made me lose an occulta-
tion. Tho sunmier frogs were singing
around u.><, and tho cv^:.ing was very plea-
sant, with a temperature of (JOo— a night of
a more southern autumn. For our supper
wo had yampah, tho most agreeably flavored
of tho roots, seasoned by a small fat duck,
which had come in the way of Jacob's rifle.
Around our fire to-night were matiy specu-
lations on what to-morrow would bring forth,
and in our busy conjectures wo fancied that
we should find every one of the large islands
a tangled wilderness of trees and shrubbery,
teeming with game of every description that
the neighboring region afforded, and which
the foot of a white man or Indian had never
violated. Frequently, during the day, clouds
had rested on the summits of their lofty
mountains, and we believed that'we should
find clear streams and springs of fresh water ;
and wo indulged in anticipations of the lux-
urious repasts with which we were to in-
demnify ourselves for past privations.
Neither, in our di.><cu.ssions, were the whirl-
pool and other mysterious dangers forgotten,
which Indian and hunter's stories attributed
to this unexplored lake. The men had dis-
covered that, instead of being strongly sewed
(like that of the preceding year, which had
so triumphantly rode the can>,ijs of the Up-
per Great I'lat'te), our present boat was only
pasted together in a very insecure manner,
the maker having been allowed so little time
in the construction, that he was obliged to
crowd the labor of two months into several
days. The insecurity of (he boat was sensi-
bly felt by UH ; and, mingled with the enthu-
siasm and excitement that we all felt at the
Erospect of an 'undertaking which had never
efore been ac -jjiplished, was a certain im-
pressio'i of dangi" sufficient to give a seri-
ous character to our conversation. The
momentary view which had been had of the
lake the day before, its great extent and ruji-
ged islands, dimly ceen amidst the dark
waters in the obscurity of the sudden storm,
were well caltuiaied to heighten the idea of
undetined danger with which the lake waa
gPiiMrally associated.

Srplemln-r H. — A calm, clear day, with a
sunris:; temperature of 41o. In view of our
present enterprise, a part of the equipment
of the boat had been made to consist in three
air-tight bags, about three feet lonp, and ca-
pable each of '-ontaining five gallons. These
had been filled with watpr the night before,

'^■m

'>X\

:li

CAl'T. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1843.

.-d-.

(■ ■'■;

:^ t:

Lfrfi''

and wore now pliicod in tlio lioat, uitli our
blaiiketH nnd irnntnitiioiitH. coiiMiMtiiij? «>f a
Bcxtniit, ti'lt'ocoiip, Hpy-(^lii«H, (hcrtiuiinotcr,
and buroinPliT.

Wo li'll tliP cnm\) tit HiinriHO, mid lind ft
very ploasunt VDyitjjo down tlif rivor, in
which thrri' whm jrcMicriilly I'ijjht or icn I'oct
of wafer, dof'iH iiini; iis wo iiourt'd llic month
in tiio lultor purl of Ihf dny. In tli»' coiirHf
of the inoriiinji; wo dinrovori'd thiil twooftho
cylinderH loiiUod no much iih to nM|iiiro ono
man ('(mstiintly at the hollown, to koop thoin
Bullicienlly fnii of air to Hiipport tho boat.
Althouf^h wo had inadf a very oariy start,
wo loitered ho much on tho way — ^toppiiijr
every now and tlion, and floatinj^ wilonlly
alonjy, to got a Hhot at a {jooso or u ducl{ —
that it waa iato in tho day when wo loncriied
tlio outh't. The river hero divided into
eeveral branches, filled with fliivialH, and ho
very Hhallow that it, was with difliculty we
could get the boat along, being obliged to get
out and wade. Wo cncain|H.'d on a low
point among rushes and young willows,
where there Was a quantity of drift wimmI,
which served for our fires. The evening
was mild and clear ; we made a pleusant
bed of the young willows ; and gpose and
ducks enough had been killed for hw abun-
dant supper at night, and for breakfast tho
next morning. 'J'he stillne.-is <if tho night
was enlivened by millions of water fowl.
Latitude (by observation) 11° 11' 20'; and
longitude 112'^ 11' 30"

September 9. — The day was clear and
calm ; the thermomctor at sunrise at 11)".
As is usual with the trap[>ers on the eve of
any enterprise, our people had made dreams,
and theirs liappened to bo a bad ono — one
which always preceded evil — and conse-
quently they looked very gloomy this morn-
ing ; but we hurried through our breakfast,
in order to make an early start, and liave all
tlie day before us for our adventure. The
channel in a short distance became so shal-
low that our navigation was at an end, be-
ing merely a sheet of soft mud, with a few
inches of water, and sometimes none at all,
forming' the low-water shore of the lake.
All this place was absolutely covered with
flocks of screaming plover. We took off
our clothes, and, getting overboard, com-
menced dragging the boat — making, by this
operation, a very curious trail, and a very
disagreeable smell in stirring up the mud, as
we sank above the knee at every step. The
water here was still fresh, with only an in-
eipid and disagreeable taste, probably de-
rived from the bed of fetid mud. After pro-
ceeding in this way about a mile, we came to
a small black ridge on the bottom, beyond
which the water became suddenly salt, be-
ginning gradually to deejwn, and the bottom
was sandy and firm. It was a remarkable

diviHion, Hopamfing tho frenh wnfern of the
rivern from tho briny wafer of tho lake,
which was entirely mhiruted with common
salt. I'ushing our little vohmoI acn.rtH tho
narrow boundary, we ppning on board, and
at length were aflont on tho waters of the
unknown sea.

Wo did not steer for tlio monnlainons
islands, but <lirected our course towards a
lower one, which it had bei'n decided wo
should firnt vi^if, the summit of which was
formed like the crater at the upper end of
Hear river valley. So long as we could
touch the bottom with our paddles, wo wore
very gay ; but gradually, as the wati-r deep-
ened, wo liecame more still in our frail !)«.
teau of gum cloth distenrled with air, ami
with pasted seams. Althouirh tho d;iy was
very calm, there was a considerable swell on
tho lake ; and there were white patches of
foam (m the surface, which were slowly
moving to tho southward, indicating tho set
of a current in that direction, and recalling
the recollection of tho wliirlpool stories. The
water c<mtinued to deepen as we advanced ;
the lake becoming almost transparently
clear, of an extremely beautiful bright-green
color; and tho spray, which was thrown
into the boat and over our clothes, was di-
rectly converted into a crust of common salt,
which covered also our h-ands and arms.
" Captain," said Carson, who for some time
had been looking suspiciously at some whit-
ening appearances outside the nearest
islands, " what arc those yonder ? — won't
you just take a look with the glass ?" We
ceased paddling for a moment, and found
them to be the caps of the waves that were
beginning to break under the force of a
strong breeze that was coming up the lake

The form of the boat seemed to be an ad-
mirable one, and it rode on the waves like a
water bird ; but, at the same time, it waa
extremely slow in its progress. When we
were a little more than half way across tho
reach, two of the divisions between tho cyl-
inders gave way, and it required the con-
stant use of the bellows to keep in a suHi-
cient quantity of air. For a long time we
scarcely seemed to approach our island, but
gradually we worked across the rougher sea
of the open channel, into the smoother water
under the lee of the island ; and began to
discover that what we took for a long row
of pelicans, ranged on the beach, were only
low clifls whitened with salt by the spray of
tho waves ; and about noon we reached the
shore, the transparency of the water enabling
us to see the bottom at a considerable depth.

It was a handsome broad beach where we
landed, behind which the hill, into which
the island was gathered, rose somewhat ab-
ruptly ; and a point of rock at one end en-
closed it in a sheltering way ; and as there

1848.

(;ai»t. kkkmont'h nakuativr.

tiiinniiH
'll^l^^ a
iIimI we
<ii \vn«

(Mid of

cniild

,«• wore

r (lop|)-

WHH nn Ahiindance of drift wo(nI alon^; the
ulioro. if iiffiTod im n plonannt encampment.
W« did ni)t BiifFor our fruijilo Iniat to touch
the Hharp rocks ; but, ROttinir overlK»ard, dJH-
charped the hn);(^(;e, and, lifting it pcntly
out of the water, carried it to the upper part
of the l)eiich, which was compoMcd of very
Htiiali frii|;mt>ntri of rock.

Ainoni; the HuccesHive hanks of the lM>nrh,
formt'd hy the action of the waves, our aften-
tinn, as we approached the island, had been
altriicled hy one 10 to 20 feet in hroiidtli, of
II diirk-ltrown color, neini; more closely
('.\nit\iiipd, tliis was found to Ih) comp<ised,
to (lie depth of seven or eij^ht and twelve
iiulii'H, entirely of the larva' of inserts, or,
ill coimnon lanjjiiage, of the skins of worms,
nliont the size of a prain of outs, which had
liceii wiiNhed up hy the waters of the lake.

Alliidin); to this suhject some months af-
terwards, when trnvellinp through a more
soiitliorn |K)rtion of this repion, in company
with Mr. .loseph Walker, an old hunter, I
was iiiformed by him, that, wandering with
a piirty of men in a mountain country east
of the preiit (Jalifornian ranpe, he surprised
a ])i\rty of several Indian families encamped
lu'iir a small salt lake, who abandoned their
lodjrps at his approach, leaving everything be-
hind tlieui. Being in a starving condition,
tliey were delighted to fhid in the abandoned
liidgos a numlwr of skin bags containing a
(limntity of what appeared to be fish, dried
and pounded. On this they made a hearty
snjjpor : and were pathermg around an
iibiindiuit breakfast the next morning, when
Mr. Wiilker discovered that it was with
these, or a similar worm, that the bags had
l)oeii tilled. The stomachs of the stout trap-
pers were not proof against their prejudices,
and the repulsive food was suddenly rcjoct-
(hI. Mr. Walker had further opportunities of
seeing these worms used as an article of food;
and 1 am inclined to think they are the same
a.s those we saw, and appear to be a product
of the salt lakes. It may be well to recall
lo your mind that Mr. Walker was associ-
ated with Captain Bonneville in hi.s expedi-
tion to the Rocky mountains ; and has since
tiiat time remained in the country, generally
residing in some one of the Snake villages,
nlien not engaged in one of liis numerous
Irajiping expeditions, in which he is cele-
brated as one of the best and bravest leaders
who have ever been in the country.

The clif!s and masses of rock along the
shore were whitened by an incrustation of
salt where the waves dashed up against
them ; and the evaporating water, which had
been left in holes and hollows on the surface
of the rocks, was covered with a crust of salt
about one-eighth of an inch in thickne&s. It
appeared strange that, in the midst of this
grand reservoir, one of our greatest wants

lately had \)cpu salt. Fxpoj-ed to bo more
fM'rfectly dried in the mm, thin b«rnm(' very
white and fine, havitig flu' iimihiI (liivor of
very excellent common salt, willionf any for-
eign tasfe; but only a little WHS ci)lliTft'(l for
present uho, as there was in it a niimluT of
snutll black innects.

('iirrying with us the barometer, and fillinr
instriimfnti*, in the afternoon wo axcen-led to
the liigli('«t |M>int of the iHliind — a bare rocky
peak, HOO foot above the lake. Stiindiiig on
the Huinmif, we enjoyed an extended view of
the hike, enclosed in a basin of rugged moun-
tains, which Hometimes left miirsliy Mats and
extensive bottoms U'tween them and ilie
shore, and in other places came directly down
into the water with m\<\ and precipitous blulTB.
Fidlowinp with our plunses the irregular
shores, we searched for some indicafinna of
a communication with other bixlies of wafer,
or the entrance of other rivers ; but the dis-
tance was HO great that wo could ^iiai<e out
nothing with certainty. To the soutliward,
several peninsular mountains, 3,0U0 or 4,000
feet high, entered the lake, appearing, so far
as the distance and our position enabled un
to determine, to ho connected by tints and
low ridges with the mountains in the rear.
These are probably the islands usually indi-
cated on maps of this region as entirely de-
tached from the shore. The season of our
operations was when the waters were at
their lowest stage. At the season of high
waters in the spring, it is probable that the
marsln^s and low grounds are overflowed, and
the surface of the lake considerably greater.
In several places the view was of unlimited
extent — here and there a rocky islet appear-
ing above the water at a great distance ; and
beyond, everything was vague and undefined.
As we looked over the vast expanse of water
spread out beneath us, and strained our eyes
along the silent shores over which hung so
much doubt and uncertainty, and which
were so full of interest to us, I could hardly
repress the almost irresistible desire to con-
tinue our exploration ; but the lengthening
snow on the mountains was a plain indica-
tion of the advancing season, and our frail
linen boat appeared so insecure that I was
unwilling to trust our' lives to the uncertain-
ties of the lake. I therefore unwillingly re-
solved to terminate our survey here, and
remain satisfied for the present with what we
had been able to add to the unknown geogra-
phy of the region. We felt pleasure also in
remembering that we were the first who, in
the traditionary annals of the country, had
visited the islands, and broken, ^vith the
cheerful sound of human voices, the long
solitude of the place. From the point where
wo were standing, the ground fell ofi' on
every side to the water, giving us a perfect
view of the island, which is twelve or tbir

• V

'•ft' I

■,';■»•

■■,♦*!
■J t'l ,

„|Kfi

CAl'T. FIIEMONT'R NARRATIVK.

[1A4I.

t<»fn nilloH III rlrciimfpronro, Mng Niniply n
rocky hill, on wliirli thorc in ni'illuT wiit<>r
nor triH'H of any kiml ; al(ll(>ll^h tlin Ftmion-
lit! tirmiculiirin, which wan in irn-ul nhiimi<
nnco, inijrht niHily ho iiiixtiikon tnr tiinhcr nt
n (liHtnncc. The pliint Ht'(Miit'i| hen* ti) do-
lijjht ill II cimp'iiitti air, Kiowini; in pxtrimr-
(linary liixiiriiinco mnon In o'mid \vol hiaU,
nml wiiH viTV iihiinilnnt on the iip|M>r partH of
the i^liiriil, wlicro it wan iilinosl tin! only
nlitiif. TliiH irt ominpiitly a Hulino Hhriili ; itH
li'iivi's have a very Halt tiintc ; ami it liixuri-
atc'H in Mulino ^oIIk, where it i(* iisiialiy n cha-
racteristic. It in widely ditViiHOtl over all thin
country. A chenopodiuceoiiM Bhriih, which
Ih a new Hpecies of uiiionk (O. riyida, 'I'urr.
cjf" /•';•<•;/». )i vvuM equally charact'^rintic of the
lower parts of the idund. TlieHc two are
tlio Htrikinir plantn on the island, and helon^;
to a cliiHs of plantH which form a prominent
feature in the vegetation of this country.
On the lower parts of the iHland, alno, a prickly
pear of very large size was frequent. On the
Hhore, near the water, waw a woolly species
of phnra ; and a now species of umMlifcrons
plant {leplitUrmia) was scattered almut In
very conciderahle abundance. These con-
stituted all the vegetation that now appeared
upon the island.

I accidentally left on the summit the bross
cover to the object end of my spy-glass ; and
as it will probably remain there undiMtnrbed
by Indians, it will furnish matter of specula-
tion to some future traveller. In our e.xcur-
eions about the island, we did not meet with
any kind of animal ; a magpie, and another
larger bird, probably attracted by the smoke
of our fire, paid us a visit from the shore, and
were the only living things seen during our
stay. The rock constituting the cliffn along
the shore where we were encamped, is a tal-
C0H8 rock, or steatite, with brown spar.

At sunset, the temperature was 70°. We
had arrived just in time to obtain a meridian
altitude of the sun, and other observations
were obtained this evening, which place our
camp in latitude 41° 10' 42", and longitude
1 1 2« 21 ' 05" from Greenwich. From a dis-
cussion of the barometrical observations
made «'.uring our stay on the shores of the
kko, we have adopted 4,200 feet for its ele-
vaton aliove the gulf of Mexico. In the
first disappointment we felt from the dissipa-
tion of our dream of the fertile islands, I
called this Disappoinlmenl island.

Out of the drift wood, we made ourselves
pleasant little lodges, open to the water, and,
after having kindled large fires to excite the
wonder of any straggling savage on the lake
shores, lay down, for *he first time in a long
journey, in perfect security ; no one thinking
about his arms. The evening was extremely
bright and pleasant ; but the wind rose dur-
ing the night, and the waves began to break

heavily nn the
tremblo. I luid

fhore, making our ixland
not ex|M'(-l)>d in our inland
journey to hear the roar of an ocean surf;
and the Ktrangenens of our situation, and the
excitement we felt in the asMoriuted inti>reHtR
of the plure, made this one ol the most in-
tereHting nij(litM I rememlwr during our long
expedition.

In the inorning, the surf was breaking
heavily on the shor", and we were up early.
The lake was dark and agitated, nnd we hur-
ried through our scanty hreakfust, and enw
harked— having lirKf tilled oneof th" buckets
with water from the lake, of which it was
intendeil to make salt. The sun had risen
by the time we were ready to start; and if
was blowing a strong gale of wind, almost
directly oil" the shore, and raising a considera-
ble sea, in which our Ixmt strained very
much. It roughened us we got away from
the island, and it required all the etForts of
the men to make any head against the wind
and sea, the gale rising with the sun ; and
there was danger of being blown into one of
the open reaches beyoiKlthe island. At the
distance of half a mile from the beach, the
depth of water was 10 feet, with a clay bot-
tom ; but, as the working of the boat was
very severe labor, and during the operation
of rounding it was necessary to cease pad-
dling, during which the boat lost considera-
blo way, I was unwilling to discourage the
men, and reluctantly gave up my intention of
ascertaining the depth, and thecharacterof the
lied. There was a general shout in the boat
when we found ourselves in one fathom, an<l
we soon alter landed on a low point of mud,
immediately under the biitte of the peninsula,
where we unloaded the boat, and carried the
baggage aitout a quarter of a mile to firmer
groiiiuT. We arrived just in time for meri-
dian observation, and carried the barometer to
the summit of the butte, which is 600 feet
above the lake. Mr. Preuss set off on foot for
the camp, which was about nine miles dis-
tant ; Ba.«il accompanying him, to bring back
horses for the boat and baggage.

The rude-looking shelter wo raised on the
shore, our scattered baggage and boat lying
on the beach, made quite a picture ; and we
called this Xhc ft slier man's camp. Lynosiris
gravenhnis, anil another new species of oni-
ONE ((). confertifolia — Torr. cf* Fr^m.), were
growing on the low grounds, with interspers-
ed spots of an unwholesome salt grass, on a
saline clay soil, with a few other plants.

The horses arrived late in the afternoon,
by which time the gale had increased to such
a height that a man could scarcely stand
before it ; and we were obliged to pack our
baggage hastily, as the rising water of the
lake had already reached the point where we
were halted. Looking back as we rode oS,
we found the place of recent encampment

[1848.

1848.1

CA1»T. FRKMONT'H NARRATIVE.

«'nrl/.

ontiroly covorrd. The low pitin tlimii|;h
which we nxlu to tho ramp whn covitriI with
a cotripnct growth ni ihniluN of oxtrnonliimry
HJ/c iiii'l liixiiriunco. Tho Hoil waM tiatiily
Hiul Hnliiit*', tiat phio'H, remMiihliiii; thu Ih-iU
III |H)ii(li«, that worM Imri) of vt'Ki'tntion, and
diviTi'd with a |N>wdi>ry whitt* nalt, httinK
iiiti>rH|)«<rHi>d HinnnK the MhriUm, ArtomiHiii
tridi'iiiiilii wiiH wry abundant, but th«^ phintn
Mcri' |irinci|mlly milino ; a iiir^o ami vi^or-
oiiH ( li)>ii()|MNliucoou« Mhriib, livt> to iM^ht loot
Iiii;li, bcint( charactoriMtic, with Froinontia
vtrmictiliuiM, and a nhrubby phmt which
Hccms to b«t a new Baliairnin. We reached
tlii> caiiii) in time to encafM) a thunder xtorm
uliiili liliickened tho Hky. and were received
Willi II diHchiir^fo ot the howitzer by the
|it'i)|ilt>, who, having been unable to nee any-
ihiii^ of UM on the lake, had be^fun to feel
KOMic iineiiHineHa.

Sriiicmbfr 11. — To-day wo remained at
thJH ciiinp, in order to obtain nome further
oliKiTViitionn, and to Itoil down the water
which had been brou((ht from the lake, for a
Hiipply of Halt. Rou|;hly evaporated over
llii' lire, tho live f^allouH of water yielded
toiirti'fii pints of very fmc-crained and very
wliiti> Halt, of which the whole lake may be
rpiriir(!(.-'i an a oaturnted Holution. A portion
of till' salt thuH obtained has been 8ulijected
III :iiiiilyt«i8, givinif, in 100 part!), tho following
propoi'tionH :

Analysis of the salt.

C'liloride of sodium (common salt) . 97.80

(Chloride of calcium 0.61

fliloridc of macneoium 0.24

Suipliiitoof soda 0.2.3

Siihiliatcof lime 1.12

100.00

(ilancing your eye along the map, you will
seo a email stream entering the Utah lake,
Hoiith of the Spanish fork, and the first wa-
ters of that hike which our road of 1844
rrnssos in coming up from tho southward.
Wiif'ii I was on this stream with Mr. Walker
in that year, ho informed mo that on the
upper part of the river are immense beds of
rock suit of very great thickness, which he
liiid rroqiiently visited. Farther to tit*.' south-
Wiird, tlio rivers which are affl lent to the
Coloriido, such as the Rio Virge i, mid 'Jila
river, near their mouths, are iii itiej;. ited
with salt by the clifRj of rock sail '«;(.- /een
which they pass. These mines occur in the
ftame ridge m which, about 120 miles to the
northward, and subsequently in their more
immediate neighborhood, we discovered the
fossils belonging to the oolitic period, and
they are probably connected with that form-
ation, ana are the deposite from which the

(irett I^ke obtainn it* salt Had wo rpmain<

ed longer, we shouhl havi- tnund them in it*
ImmI, and in the mountaiim around ii^ ahrrfva.

Ily olworvation, the l.itiliiili- of lln^ ramp
iri 41' I >' fiO", niid lontfiliiiio Wi" ()»V .|;j".

The olmervutionM made during our stay
give for the rate of thi* «'hrr<iium('»tir :»l ,72,
corn'H[M)ndiiig alinoHt exactly with the rate
ohtiiiiicd at Si. Vraiu'K fort, Jiaroinotriral
olmervation* were made hourly during the
day. 'I'his uu>rniiig we breiiklanted on ynni-
IMli, and had only kainl^H for supper ; but a
cup of goo«l cotlee nlill dintinguihhod um from
our DiKH'r iui|uaintanceH.

Si'plimbir 12. -Tho morning was clear
ami culm, with a temperature at Hunrinc of
32*^. We roHunied our journey lato in tho
day, returning by nearly the name route
which wo had travelled in coming to the
lake ; and, avoiding the paHsage of Hawthorn
creek, struck tho hills a little Udow the ho*,
salt springs. The Hat plain wo had here
passed over consisted alternately of tolerably
good sandy soil and of Naline plats. Wu
encamped early on Clear creek, at the foot
of the iiigh ridge ; one of the peaks of which
wo ascertaineuby measurement to be 4,2 lU
feet above the lake, or ab«jut 8,400 feet above
tho sea. Behind these front peaks the ridge
rises towards tho Rear river mountains,
which are |)rol)ably as high as the Wind
river chain. This creek is here unusually
well timbered with a variety of trees. Among
them were birch (belula), tho narrow-leaved
poplar (populiis amuslifdiui), several kinds
of willow (salix), hawthorn (cratdgua), al-
der (ulnns liridis), and cerasus, with an oak
allied to quercus albn, but very distinct from
that or any other species in tho United
States.

Wo had to-night a supper of sea gulls,
which Carson killed near trie lake. Although
cool, the thermometer standing at 47°, mus-
quitoes were sufficiently numerous to be
troublesome this evening.

September 13. — Continuing up the river
valley, wo crossed several small streams ;
tho mountains on the right appearing to con-
sist of the blue limestone, winch wo had ob-
served in tho same ridge to the northward,
alternating here with a granular quartz al-
ready mentioned. One of these streams,
which forms a sma'ler lake near the river,
was broken up iplo several ciiannels ; and
the irrigated bottom of fertile soil was covered
with innumerable flowers, among which were

Eurple fields of eupatoriuin purpureum, with
elianthi, a handsome solidago (S. canaden-
sis), and a variety of other plants in bloom.
Continuing along the foot of the hills, in the
afternoon we found five or six hot springs
gushing out together, beneath a conglome-
rate, consisting principally of fragments of a
greyish-blue limestone, efflorescing a salt

' I

:■)■'

■■I'-i^i

• Ntr

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0 Eftti m

S m ^

la 12.0

I.I

PhotogTdiDhic

^Sdences

Corporation

r<\^

<^^*<»

23 WIST MAIN STRUT

WIUTiR,N.Y. I45M

(716)«73-4S03

^1^^

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVK.

[1848.

Bf.-.

upon the nurfiire. The lomperatiirr of ihoRo
sprin^jH was i:{|°, and tho rorks in thn hed
wer« f.oloreil with a red doposito, and thoro
waH ct)inmi)n salt cryHtalli/.od ontho margin.
Tlif'rt! wa.-i also a white incrustation n|Min
Ifiivcrt niid roots, cnnsistintj principally of

carlionalt! <ir lime. There were rushes seen
alonjr the road thiH aftermxin, and the Koil
under tho hills was very hiack, and apparent-
ly very jrood ; hut at thin time the (jrass is
entirely dried up. We ciieain|)e(l on Bi>ar
river, immediately helow a cut-olV, the canon
hy whicli the river enters this valley hearing
north hy compass. The nipht whs mild, with
a very clear sky ; and I ohtaineil a very
excellent ohscrvation of an occultation of
Tau." Arietis. with other ohservation.'i. Both
immersion an<l emersion of the wtar wore
ohserved ; hut, as our ohservations have
shown, the phase at the hright limh <jeneral-
iy fives incorrect longitudes, and we have
adojited the result obtained from the emersion
at the dark limh, without allowinrr any weight
to the immersion. Accordinfj to these oli-
scrvations, the lonnritude is 1 1'2*06' 12", asid
the latituile U« 42' 43''. All the longitudes
on the line of our outward journey, between
St. Vrain's fort and the Dalles of the Co-
lumhia, which were not directly determined
by satellites, have been chronometically re-
ferred to this place.

The people to-day were rather low-spirit-
ed, hunirer makin<T them very quiet and
peaceable ; and there was rarely an oath to
be heard in the camp — not even a solitary
enfant de gnrce. It was time for the men
with an expected supply of provisions from
Fitzpatrick to be in the neighborhood ; and
the gun was fired at evening, to give them
notice of our locality, but met with no re-
sponse.

September 14. — About four miles from
this encampment, the trail le<l ns down to
the river, where we unexpectedly found an
excellent ford — the stream being widened by
an island, and not yet disengaircd froin the
hills at the foot of the range. We encamped
on a little creek where we had made a noon
lialt in descending the river. 'I'he night
was very clear and pleasant, the sunset tem-
[vniture being 07".

Tlie people this evenh'g looked so forlorn,
that I guve them permission to kill a fat
young horse which I had purchased with
goods from the Snake Indians, and they were
very soon restored to gaiety and good hu-
mor. Mr. Preuss and myself could not yet
overcome some remains of civilized preju-
dices, and preferred to starve a little longer ;
feeling as much saddened aa if a crime had
been committed.

The next day we continued up the valley,
the soil being sometimes very black and
good, occasionally gravelly, and occasionally

a kind of naked salt plains. We fctu >! on
the way this morning a small encrnpmcnt
of two families of Snake Indians, from whom
we purchased a small (piantily of kiHtijnh.
They had piles of seeds, of three «liirercnl
kinds, spread out u|K)n pieces of hufliilo ioIjc ;
and the scpiaws had just gathered almiit a
bushel of the roots of a thistle (rirciiim Vir-
irinianiim). They were about the onlinary
size of carrots, and, as I have previously
mentioneil, are sweet and well flavored, re-
quiring only a long preparation. They had
a band of twelve or fifteen horses, and ap-
peared to l>e growing in the sunshine with
about as little lalior as the plants they wera
eating.

Shortiv afterwards we met an Indian on
horseback who had killed an antelope, which
we purchased from him for a little powder
anti some balls. We crosseil the Iloseanx,
and encamped on the loft bank ; halting
early for the pleasure of enjoying a whole-
some and abundant supper, and were pleas-
antly engaged in protracting our unusual
comfort, when Tabeaii galloped into the
camp with news thiit Mr. Fitzpatrick was
encamped close by us, with a ^ood supply of
provisions — flour, rice, and dried meat, ami
even a little butter. Excitement to-night
made us all wakeful ; and aftei a breakfast
before sunrise the next morning, we were
again on the road, and, continuing up the
valley, crossed some high points of hills, and
halted to noon on the same stream, near seve-
ral lodges of Snake Indians, from whom we
purchased about a bushel of service berries,
partially dried. By the gift of a kni'e. I pre-
vailed upon a little boy to show me ti*^ koo-
yah plant, which proved to be Valeriana edu-
lis. The rofjt, which constitutes the kootjah,
is large, of a very bright yellow color, with
the characteristic odor, hut not so fully de-
veloped as in the prepared substance. It
loves the rich moist soil of river bottoms,
which was the locality in which I always af-
terwards found it. It was now entirely out
of bloom ; according to my observation,
flowering in the months of May and June.
In the afternoon we entered a long ravine
leading to a pass in the dividing ridge be-
tween the waters of Bear river and the
Snake river, or Lewis's fork of the Colum-
bia ; our way being very much impeded, and
almost entirely blocked up, by compact fields
of luxuriant artemisia. Taking leave at this
point of the 'vaters of Bear riv'er, and of the
geographical basin which encloses the sys-
tem of rivers and creeks which belong to
the Great Salt Lake, and which so richly de>
serves a future detailed and ample explora^
tion, I can say of it, in general terms, that
the bottoms of this river (Bear), and of some
of the creeks which I saw, form a natural
resting and recruiting station for traveller!,

1843]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

now. niid ill all time to como. Tlio iHittoinn
an- i'Xli'iisivt> ; WHtorexcollciit ; liinlKTHiitli-
I'ii'Mt ; tiio mill (Tooil, iiiiii well mlapN'd to the
KriiitiK siiul ;(riiHMi>H Hiiiti'il to hiicIi an I'levat-
I'll ri-i;ioii. A tniiitary |)iist, niid a riviliznl
ai'ltli'iii'-nt, woiiltl Ik' (iI yrcat valiu* luTi" ;
ami riitlli' and liorMt'rt woiilii ilo wt'll when'
)rni>.-< anil ^■alt »o inucli aboiiiul. ". lie lake
will ruriilHli cxliaii8tlo88 Hiipplics ofnalt. All
tlu' miniiitain wideH here are covered with a
Viiliiaiilf nutritious t;raf>H, called bunch {rrtiRH,
triMii the lorni in which it (rrowH, which Iuih
H M'coiid irrowth ill the lull. The iK'a.sts of
llic iiiiliiiiiH were iht lipm it; our own found
it :i ciKid Kul>.><istonce ; and its quantity will
.■iii^tuin any amount of cattle, and inaketliiH
truly II hiicolic region.

\V't' met here an Indian family on horse-
bac'n, which had been out to gather service
lierrio.x, and were returning loaded. This
tree wan scattered about on the hills ; and
the upper part of the pass was timliered with
aH|»en (fMtpulus trem.) ; the common blue
riiuM'riiig (lax occurring among the plants.
The approach to the pass was very steep ;
ami the summit about fi,300 feet above the
eva. — probably only an uncertain approxima-
liiiii, a.s at the time of observation it was
blowing a violent gale of wind from the
lutrthweMt, with cumuli scattered in masses
uvor the sky, the day otherwise bright and
dear. We descended, by a steep slope, into
a liroad o|)en valley — good soil ; from four
to live 'Tiiles wide ; coming down immediate-
ly iipo.. one of the headwaters of the Pan-
iiack river, which here loses itself in swampy
irri)und. The appearance of the country
lierc is not very interesting. On eitlier side
in a regular range of mountains c>( the usual
ciiaracter, with a little timber, tolerably
rock7 on the right, and higlier and more
sninotli on the left, with still higher peaks
looking out above the range. The valley
atVorded a good level road ; but it was late
wiuMi it brought us to water, and we en-
cunipcd at dark. The northwest wind had
blown up very cold weather, and the arte-
fiiisia, which was our fire wood to-night, did
not happen to be very abundant. This plant
lovo.« a dry, sandy soil, and cannot grow in
the good bottoms where it is rich and moist,
but on every little eminence, where water
iwA not rest long, it maintains absolute pos-
Bossion. Elevation above the sea about
6,100 feet.

At night scattered fires glimmered along
the mountains, pointing out camps of the
Indians ; and we contrasted the comparative
security in which we travelled through this
country, with the guarded vigilance we were
compelled to exert among the Sioux and
other Indians on the eastern side of tlie
Rocky mountains.

At '<unMH the thermometer was at 60o, and
at midnight at 30°.

Sf/hinlicr 1 7. — The morning sky wan rnim
and eli-ar, the l('in|ieriture at rlnyiipht l)cing
li.Oo, and at Kiinrise UOo. There if through-
out this inouiitain coiintry a remarkable dif-
ference Utweeii the morning ami midday
teinperaliirc.H, which at this ^eaxui wan very
generally lOoor .Odo, and occaHionally great-
er; and Irerpicntly, alter a very fro>ty morn-
ing, the heat in u few hours would render
the thinnext clothing agreeable. .Miout noon
we reached the iiiHin fork. The i'aiiiiark
river was iK'fore u.<» ; the valley l>eiiiL''lier(' li
mile wide, fertile, and bordered l.y Miumth
hills, not over 500 feet high, partly covored
with cedar; a high ridge, in wliicli there is a
prominent peak, ri.sing iK'hind llio-o «>n the
left. We continued to deseeiwl this stream,
and found on it at night a warm and eomlort-
able camp. Flax occurred so fre(|iieiilly du-
ring the day as to be almost a (characteristic,
ana the soil ap|)eared excellent. The oppe.
site hills on the riirht are broken here into a
great variety of shape.'^. The evening was
gusty, with a teinjierature at sunset of 59^.
I obtained, about midnight, an obsi>rvution of
an emersion of the first satellite ; the night
being calm and very clear, the stars remark-
ably bright, and the thermometer at 30*.
Iiongitiide. from mean of satellite and chro-
nometer, 112° :J9' 52"; and latitude, by ob-
servation, 42*^ 44' 40".

Septemlier 18. — The day clear and calm,
with a temperature of 25"^ at sunrise. After
travelling seven or eight miles, we emerged
on the plains of the Columbia, in sight of the
famous " Three Butlcs,"' a well-known land-
mark in the country, distant about 45 miles.
The French word buUe, which so often occurs
in this narrative, is retained from the familiar
language of the country, and identifies the
objects to which it refers. It is naturalized
in the region of the Rocky mountains ; and,
even rf desirable to render it in English, I
know of no word which would be its precise
equivalent. It is applied to the detached
hills and ridges which rise abruptly, and
reach too high to be called hills or ridges,
and not high enough to be called mountains.
Knob, as applied in the western States, is
their most descriptive term in English. Cerro
is the Spanish term ; but no translation, or
paraphrasis, would preserve the identity of
these picturesque landmarks, familiar to the
traveller, and often seen at a great distance.
Covered as far as could be seen with artemisia,
the dark and ugly appearance of this plain
obtained for it the name of the Sage Desert ;
and we were agreeably surprised, on reach-
ing the Portneuf river, to see a beautifnl
Keen valley with scattered timber spread out
neath us, on which, about four miles di**

! '

4 *

CAl'T. FRKMONT'H NAIIIIAI'IVK.

(1843

■?*'•■

Uiit, wore glixtoninf^ tlin white whIIm of tlio
ft)rt. Till' I'ortiicMit' nitiH aloni; tlio nnlHiid
plait) nciirly to itH inoiitli, and hii Rl)ru|it
doHcont uf |)erhu|)fi 'iOU luot liroU(;l>t un down
iinin(Mliat«>ly iifxtn tlic Rtrrnin, wliicli at the
ford is lUU yardrt \vid<>, and throe t'eot di-i i>,
with clfur water, u swilt current, and gravelly
licd ; hut a httle hiKher np the hreathh wan
only ulmut 35 yards, willi apparently deep
water.

In the hottom I remarked a very preal
iiiinilx>r of Hprin^TH and nhniirhH, with remark-
uljly rlear water and fravel \xh\h. At Kuncet
we enciun|>ed with Mr. TalUit and our I'ricndH,
who canio on to Fort Hall when wo went to
the lake, and whom we had the natiHraction
to find all well, neither party havinf; met with
any mitichaneo in Iho interval of onr He|»a-
ration. They, too, had had their nhare of
fatigue and Mcanty proviHionn, an there had
been \ery little game left on the trail of the
nopulous emigration ; and Mr. Fitzpatrick
had rigidly hu8banded our stock of Hour and
light provisioHH, in view of the approaching
winter and the long journey before uh.

Sifilrmttrr 19. — This morning the sky wan
very dark and gloomy, and at daylight it be-
gan Huowing thickly, and continued all day,
wilU cold, disagreeable weather. At ennrine
the tem|)erature was 43°. I rode up to the
fort, and purchaRed from Mr. Urant (the
ofljcer in charge of the post) Moveral very
inditVerent hor8«H, and tive oxea in very tine
order, which were received at the camp with
great satisfaction ; and, "nc being killed at
evening, the usual gaiety and good humor
were at once restored. Night came in
stormy.

Seplemlvr 20. — We had a night of snow
and rain, and the thermometer at sunrise was
at 34°; the morning was dark, with a steady
rain, and there was still an inch of snow on
the ground, with an abundance on the neigh-
boring hills and mountains. The sudden
change in the weather was hard for onr ani-
mals, who trembled and shivered in tlio cold
— sometimes taking refuge in the timber, and
now and then coming out an^* raking the

grass, or

snow oir the ground for a little
eating the young willows.

Seiilcmber 21.— Ice made tolerably thick
(luring the night, and in the morning the
weallier cleared up very bright, with a teni-
peniturc at sunrise of 29°; and I obtained a
meridian observation for latitude at the fort,
with observations for time. The sky was
again covered in the afternoon, and the ther-
mometer at sunset 48°.

September 22. — The morning was cloudy
and unpleasant, and at sunrise a cold rain
commenced, with a temperature of 41".

The early approach of winter, and the dif-
ficulty of supporting a large party, determin-
ed ine to send back a number of the men who

had lieritme natiMfietl that they were nut littnl
for the lalxiridus xervire and frecpn'rit jin.
vation to which they were nece^Hiirily rx-
|N)sed, and which there waH reason to iN-licvt'
would become more nevere in the liirtluT
oxtenni(m of Iho voyage. I acci>rdmt.'l\
called Ihein tdgelhur, and, hiforniiii;.' tin-in m
my intention to continue our journey duriiii.'
the ensuing winter, i'l the course ot wlm h
they would probably In> e.x|)niied to rntisidern-
ble hardnhip, succeedp<l in prevailing iiimh n
numlK>rof them to return voluntarily. Tlnv,
were : CharleH l)c Forrest, Henry l.ee, J
Campbell, \Vm. Creuss, A. Vasfpiez, A. I'cni,
Patrick White, H. Tennon, M. Creely, Knin
9oiH I<ajeuneHHe, DuNil liiijennesse. Arnoiit:
thene, I regretted v«'ry much to lose HiihiI
Ija|eiine«f»e, one of the bent men in my piirly.
who was obliged, by the ccmdition of his
family, to be at home in the coming winter.
Uur preparatioiiH having l)een completed in
the interval of our stay here, both partifM
were ready this morning to resume their
respective routes.

Lxcept that there is a greater rpuiiitity ol
wood used in its construction. Fort I hill vcv
much resembles the other trading po»<tH whirii
have been already «lescril)cd to yim. iitid
would be another e.xcellent post of rcliel tor
the emigration. It is in the low, rich linttnni
of a valley, apparently 20 miles lonp. rDnneil
by the conflueiire of I'ortneuf river with
Ijcwis's fork of the Columbia, which it en-
ters aliout nine miles l)clow the fort, iind
narrowing gradually to the month «)f the
I'annack river, where it has a breniith ol
only two or three miles. Allowing .00 miloH
for the road from the Beer it])rin<rx «>f Bear
river to Fort Hall, its distance along the
(ravelled road from the town of Wi'sf i)ort, on
the frontier of Missouri, by way of I'nrt !j»-
ramie and the great South Pass, is 1323
miles. Beyond this pkce, on the line of
road along the barren valley of the Upper
Columbia, there does not occur, for a dis-
tance of nearly three* hundred miles to the
westwani, a fertile spot of ground sntlieiently
large to produce the necessary quantity of
grain, or pasturage enough to allow even a
temporary repose tc the emigrants. On
their recent passage, they had been able to
obtain, at very high prices and in insuffi-
cient quantity, only such assistance as coiilJ
be aflbrded by a small and remote tradini;
post — and that a foreign one — which, in the
supply of its own wants, had necessarily
drawn around it some of the resources of
civilisation, but which obtained nearly all iti
supplies from the distant depot of Vancou-
ver, by a difficult water carriage of 260
miles up the Columbia river, and a land car-
riage by pack horses of 600 miles. An
American military post sufficiently strong to
give to their road a perfect security againit

till- Iivli
ity mid
aii'l wli
till- r<'|'
ti) iillitri

tin' jTU

liiiiiiry

(H)-t (II
ihI Oil t

lortti t
<»iipi>li<

llic fill

nmy
Ml mill
region"

1 HI

riMT

1)1 il-iM

rnrrect
ni'i;;lii
jotxl 1
lireci-'

I«48.]

fAI'T niKMONTS NAUUATIVH.

••rr nof tijfp,|
rrr(|uciit pn.
•••'XNiirily vx-
■•>ri to U'-licv..

• llif riirlliiT
!irc(ir(|iiii.'l\

iiiiii.' llii'iii ,,i
"iriii'v (liiriii:,r
rs<' of will! h

• ilinjr lUMii n
nrily. Tli.-.
•■iiry l,(M', J
ncz, A. iVn,
'rrt'ly. Fran

'I'C. Anmiij.-
o lose lliiml

in my j)iirtv.

it ion of hi.,
niiijy winter,
•ornplotod in

•lolli piirtifM
camno tUoir

' qiiuiititv r>r
>rt Hall vcv

pwfH w hi ell
•<> yoii. iimi
of relief U,r

rich hiiitom
oiifr. forinf'/l

river wilh
vhich it en-
i« C'lrt, mid
)iith of t|i(.

breadth oi
np .OOtniloH
l^^* of Hear
' nlonp flip
^'t'Hliiort, on
of I'ort Im-
's, is 1323
lio line of
thi> Upper
1 for u (liB-
niles to thp
RiiHiciontly
luantify of
low even a
Hits. On
en able to
in instiffi-
10 R8 ronid
tn tradin/f
ich, in tli0
icccssarily
<onrci'M of
irly all iti
f Vancou-
:e of 260
land car-
ilea. An
strong to
■yaguatt

•

ilic Indian frilwo, who are luiKettled in local-
ity mill very uncftrlain in their diH(M)nilion,
mill which, with the nnceKitary lacilitieM tor
ilii' repair of their erpiipii|re, would Ik> ahip
(i. iilliird them relief in Ktock and prain from
till' [irtMlncfl of till' poHt, would Ik* of extraor-
diimry value to the emigration. Much a
|io>t ^and all otheri* which may Im> e8t(il)lii«h-
(nI mi the line to Oregon) would naturally
iDfiii the nurlrus of ii HcttlemenI, at whicli
fliipplieM and refMinc woiilil lie obtained by
till' eiiii(rrant, or tradin^r caravauH, whicli
iimv hereafter trHverm* tliooo elevated, and.
Ml many places, demilato and inhoHpitablu
ri'j.'ionM.

I Mibjoin an analvHiN of the noil in the
river lixitoin near hort Hall, which will lie
ol ii-'histunce in enablin^r you to form mmie
rurrect idea of its general chanirter in the
ni'i^'lilMirinp country. I characterize it an
^0(nI land, but the analysis will show ItH
prccine properties.

Analijsis of nnil,

Silicina 68.66

.Miiiiiina 7.46

('iirlKinate of lime ... 8.61

(>urlj<)nate of magnesia ... 6.U9

(hide of iron .... 1.40

Urjfaiiic vegetable matter - . 4.74

Water and loss ... 4.00

100.00

Our observations place this post in longi-
tude 112° 29' 64", latitude 43" 01' 30", and
in elevation above the sea 4,600 feet.

Taking leave of the homeward party, we
rf sumed our journey down the valley, the
weiiiher being very cold, and the rain com-
i:i^' in hard gUMtn, which the wind blew di-
rectly ill our faces. We forded the !'orl-
ntMil in a storm of rain, the water in the
river being frequently up to the axles, and
about 110 yards wide. After the gust, the
\N father improved a little, and we encamped
aiKjiit three miles below, at the mouth of the
I'iiiiiiack river, on Lewis's fork, which here
liaH a breadth of about 120 yards. The
teir.|)crature at sunset was 42*^ ; the sky
partially covered with dark, rainy clouds.

Stpiember 23. — The temperature at sun-
riHc was 32*^ ; the morning dark, and snow
falling steadily and thickly, with a light air
from the southward. Protited of being
obliged to remain in camp, to take hourly
barometrical observations from sunrise to
midnight. The wind at eleven o'clock
set in from the northward in heavy gusts,
and the snow changed into rain. In the
ailernoon, when the sky brightened, the rain
had washed all the snow from the bottoms ;
but the neighboring mountainB, from sum-

mit to fiMit, were luiiiiiioiihly white — an in-
aiiHpiciouM coinuiencemeiit of the autumn,
of which this wan the tirHt day.

!-ii fihmhir 24. — The tlierinoiiieter at sun-
Tine WBH ;j.V', and a blue fiky in tlie went
|iroiiii.'<etl a tine day. The rivi-r liottnmH
here are niirrow and swHinpy, wilh (reiiuenl
HloiigliH ; mid after cronniiig the i'aiinack,
the road continued alonir the uplanrlH, ren-
dered very nlip|iery by the xoil of wet clav.
and entirely covered with arteiiiii.i;i liUHhef.
among which occur fre(|ueiit frii(Miieiit!« ol
olmidian. At ncMin we encamped in a ^'rove
of willowH, at the iijiiK-r end of a pronp of
ihlandn about hall a mile above the Aim rican
/nils of Snake river. Among the willowM
here, were home buHhes «>l Lewis and
Clarko'M currant (ribrt dureum). The
river here enters iMtween low mural bankn,
which consint of a line ves'icular trap rock,
the intermediate portions iK-in;? compact and
crystalline, (iradiially lH>coining higher in
its downward course, these bank.s of scori-
ated volcanic rock form, with occasional in-
terruptions, its characteristic feature along
the whole line to the Dalles of the liOwer
('<duniliia. resembling a chasm which had
iM-eii rent tliroii^h the country, and which
the river had alterwards taken for its bed.
'i'he immediate valley of the rivor is a high
plain covered wilh black rocks and artemi-
sias. In the south is a Imrdering range of
mountaiiiH, which, although nut very high,
are bn>ken and covered with «now ; and at
a great distance to the north is seen the high,
snowy line of the Salmon river mountains,
if front of which stand out prominently i|
the plain the three isolated rugged-looking
little mountains commonly known as the
Three HuUps. Between the river and the
distant Salmon river range, the plain is
represented by Mr. Fitzpatnck as so entirely
broken up and rent into chasms as to be im-
practicable for a man even on foot. In the
sketch annexed, the point of view is low, but
it conveys very well some idea of the open
character of tl c country, with the buttes
rising out above the general line. By mea-
surement, the river al)ove is 870 loet wide,
immediately contracted at the fall in the
form of a lock, by jutting piles of ^coriaceous
basalt, over which the foaming river mast
present a grand appearance at the time J
nigh water. The evening was clear and
pleasant, with dew ; and at sunset the tem-
perature was 64". By observation, llie lati-
tude is 42" 47' 06', and the longitude 112®
40' 13'. A few hundred yards below the
falls, and on the left bank of the river, is an
escarpment from which we obtained some
specimens.

September 26. — Thermometer at sunrise
47". The daycame in clear, with a strong
gale from the south, which commenced at 11

>"•

'.ft

9ti

CAI'T. FUKMONT'S NAllUAIIVK.

11843.

I%t3

of tlu» liiHt iiijriit. Tlip roail Uwluy led nlonj^
the river, wliirli irt fiiil of riipitlH iind hiiiiiII
fulln. (iniri'* irt very hoiintv ; uiul aloii); the
ni^Tf^eil bniikH iire Hciittonul ctMlHM, witli iin
abuii<liii)(-i< (tl rockn mid Kaj,'p. Wi'triivflled
11 inili'M. niid oiu'nii)|K>d in tho iiltiTnoon
npiir tilt* river, on ii ntcky crock, tlio hed of
wliicli wiis criiirt'ly oc-ciipird with lionldi^rs
of a very liiry:e size. For tlio last three or
four iinles the rijjht bank of tho river han a
palixadod a|)|H'arancc. One of the oxen was
killed hero lor \'*hm\, Tho thorinometcr at
eveiiin^r was at ftS**, tho i«ky almost over-
ca^t, and the iiaronieter indicated an eleva-
tion of 1. too feet.

Si-iiifnihi-r Jt). — Rain dnrinp the nijjht,
91: Ju> leniperatnro at Hunrim' U*. Trav-
ellinjj alonjr the river, in alnnit I miles we
reaciied a |iirtnreH(|iie Htroam, to which we
;{avo the name of Fall creek. It is remark-
able tor the many lalU which occnr in a
short distance ; and its l)od is com|M)sod of a
calcareous tnfa, or vepotable rock, composoil
principally of tho remains of reeds and
mosses, resomhlinjj that at tho Ititiiin sprhig
on Bear river.

The road alon;; the river bliifls had boon
occasionally very bad ; and imauinintr that
some ronjjh obstacles rendered »uch a detour
necessary, we followed for wveral miles a
plain wa^on road loading up this stream, un-
til we reached a point whence it could bo
seen making directly towards a low place in
the range on the south side of tho valley, and
we became immediately aware that we were
on a trail formed by a party of wagons, in
company with whom we liad encamped at
Kim grove, near tho frontier of Missouri,
and whi(;h yon will remember were proceed-
ing to Upper Calitornia under the uirection
of Mr. Jos. Chiles. At the time of their de-
parture, no pnicticablo passc-j were known
in the southern Kocky mountains within the
territory of the United States ; and tlie pro-
bable apprehension of difliculty in attempting
to pass near the settled frontier of New
Mexico, together with the desert character
of the unexplored region beyond, had induced
them to take a more northern and circuitous
route by way of the Sweet Water pass and
Fort Hall. They had still between them
and the valley of the Sacramento a great
mass of mountains, forming the Sierra Ne-
vada, here commonly known as the Great
Californin mountain, and which were at this
lime considered as presenting an impracti-
cable barrier to wheeled carriages. Various
considerations had suggested to them a divi-
sion of the party ; and a greater portion of
the camp, including the wagons, with the
mail and other stores, were now proceeding
under the guidance of Mr. Joseph Walker,
who had engaged to conduct them, by a long
■weep to the southward, around what is

called the intint nf the mountain ; and, cnmn.
ing throiigli a jtasn known only to him>eir,
gain the banks of the Hacraineiito by ili(>
valley of tho San Joaquin. It wan a iuiiij
and a hazardous journey for a party in wliirh
there wen- women and children. Si.xiy
days was the shortest |N>rio«l of tim(> in whiiii
tliev could reach the |K>iiit of the moniii.iiii,
and their route lay through u country irlml)-
ited by wild and badly dis;N<t)od Indian.'^, mul
very |MK»r in game ; but the leader \vu- u
man possosoing ^reat and intimate kimw-
lodge of tho Indian^, with an oxtrartrdiiiiiry
lirmncHS and (locision of character. In tho
inoantime, Mr. Chiles had passed down the
Columbia with a party of ten or twelve men,
with tho intention of reaching the settle-
inents on the Sacramento by a iiioro direct
course, which indotinite information in tin
hunters had indicated in the direction nf the
head waters of the Uii lire our Mulhnirs ;
and having obtained there a roinldrcemint
of animals, and a supply of provisions, meet
the wagons before they should have reiiclied
the |)oint of the mountain, at a place wliich
had l)een previously agreed U|)oi). In ilie
course ot our narrative, we shull 1h' able to
give you some intormation of tho furtinip
which attended tho movir.ionts of these ml-
venturous travellers.

Having discovered our error, wo imme-
diately regained the line along the river,
which the road quitted about ikmui, and en-
camped at 6 o'clock on a stream called Kurt
river {Itiiiire atix Cajeiix), having tiavclled
only 13 miles. In the north, the Saliuoii
river mountains are visible at a very Itr
distance; and on the loll, theridgo in \\bieh
Raft river heads is about 20 miles distant,
rocky, and tolerably high. Thermometer at
sunset 44°, with a partially clouded sky, ami
a sharp wind from the SVV.

September 27. — It was now no longer |m)s-
sible, as in our previous journey, to travel
regularly every day, and find at any moment
a convenient place for repose at noon or a
camp at night ; but the halting places wore
MOW generally fixed along the road, by tho
nature of the country, at places where, with
water, there was a little scantv grass. Since
leaving the American falls, the road had fre-
quently been very bad ; the many short,
steep ascents, exhausting the strength of our
worn-out animals, requiring always at such
places the assistance of the men to get up
each cart, one by one ; and cuir progress
with tw "^Ive or fourteen wheeled carriages,
though light and made for the purpose, in
such a rocky country, was extremely slow ;
and I again determined to gain time by a di-
vision of the camp. Accoraingly, to-day the
parties again separated, constituted very
much as before — Mr. Fitzpatrick remaining
in charge ot the heavier baggage.

1843]

CAPT. FHKMONT'S NARRATIVE.

Tho morninif wai calm ami clear, with a
whilo froHt, and the temperature at sunriiie
J4«.

Tn-day the country had a very forhidding^
nppoarance ; and, after travellini; 20 milPH
oviT a Hliglitly undulatini; plain, wo en-
rHtn|>od at a connidoraLlo nprini;, called
Swamp creek, rifling in low groundn noar
till* fHiint of a Rpur from the mountain. Rp-
tiirniM(r with a small party in a Htarving con-
ilitiori from the westward 12 or 14 yearn
since, Carnon had met here throe or four
IhiHIiIo build, two of which were killed.
'I'hcy were among the pioneers which had
made the experiment of colonizing in the
vnllev of the Columbia, and which had
fitileJ, as heretofore stated. At Hunset tho
thprinomt'tcr was at 46", and tho evening
wRK overcast, with a cold wind from tho
SK., nnd to-night we had only sago for fire
wihkI. Mingled with the arteminia was a
shriiblty and thornv chonopodiaoenus plant.

Si-jiirmher 28. — rhonnoinctor at piinrise
»()•. The wind rcme early to a jrale from
till' west, with a very cold driving rain ; nnd,
.-tt'tiT an uncomfortable day's ride of l!5 milen,
\v(' were glud when at evening we found a
slicltorpd camp, where there was an abun-
Hance of wood, at some elevated n)cky is-
l,-)iiils covered with cedar, near the com-
inrncoment of another long capon of the
river. With the exception of a short deten-
tuiii at a deep little stream called (ioose
rreek, and some occasional rocky places, we
liiul to-day a very good road ; but the coun-
try has a barren appearance, sandy, and
(icn.<cly covered with the artemisias from the
banks of the river to the f(X>t of the moun-
tains, flere I remarked, among the sage
huxhos, green bunches of what is called the
second growth of grass. Tho river to-day
lias hau a smooth appearance, free from
rapids, with a low, sandy hill slope bordering
the bottoms, in which there is a little good
soil. Thermometer at sunset 46", blowing
a gale, and disagreeably cold.

September 29. — The thermometer at sun-
ri«;u 36", with a bright sun, and appearance
of liner weather. The road for several miles
WHS extremely rocky, and consequently bad ;
l)ut, entering after this a sandy country, it
became very good, with no other interrup-
tion than the sage bushes, which covered the
river plain so far as the eye could reach, and,
with their uniform tint of dark grey, gave to
I lie country a gloomy and sombre apfiear-
ance. All the day the course of the river
has been between walls of the black volca-
nic rock, a dark line of the escarpment on
the opposite side pointing out its course, and
•weepmg along in foam at places where the
mountains which border tho vallev present
always on the left two ranges, the lower one
t apor of the higher ; and, on the opposite

side, the Halmon river mountninn ar«> vinihle
at a groat diNlanrn. Having miulc -J t iiiiIom,
we pncain|N<d about & o'clock on Itm k rrcck
— a stream having considorabln wutt-r, a cwitt
current, nnd wooded with willow.

Si'jitimhrr .10. — Thermometer nf sunrise
28°. In iiH progress towards the river, this
creek siMin enters a chasm of the voUuniu
rock, which in places along the wall prosents
a columnar appearance; and the road lie-
comes extremely rocky whenever it iiasucs
near its banks. It is only about tueiity teet
wide where the road cronses it. wiili h deep
bod, and steep hanks, covereil wiili rocky
fnigmcnts, with willows and a little ^Tassoit
its narrow Iwttom. Tho soil appears to l>e
full of calcareous matter, with wliich tlio
rocks are incrusted. Tho fragments of ruck
which hud Iwen removed by tho einigrants
in making a road where we ascende(r from
tho bed of this creek wore whiteii'd with
lime ; and during the afternoon's mnrcli I re-
marked in the soil a considerable quantity of
calcareous concretions. Towards evening
the sages Iwcame more sparse, and the clear
spaces were occupied by tufts of green grass.
'i'he river still cot tinned its course through
a trough or open caAon ; and towards sunset
we followed tne trail of several wagons which
had turned in towards Snake river, and en-
camped, as they had done, on the top of the
escarpment. There was no grass here, the
soil among the sage being entirely nuked :
but there is occasionally a little bottom along
tho river, which a short ravine of rocks, «t
rare intervals, leaves accessible ; and by one
of these we drove our animals down, and
found some tolerably good grass bordering
the water.

Immediately opposite to us, a subterranean
river bursts out directly from the face of the
escarpment, and falls in white foam to the
river below. The main river is enclosed
with mural precipices, which form its charac-
teristic feature along a great portion of its
course. A melancholy and strange-looking
country— one of fracture, and violence, and
fire.

Wo had brought with us, when we sepa-
rated from the camp, a large gaunt ox, in ap-
pearance very poor; but, being killed to-night,
to the great joy of the people, he was found
to be remarkably fat. As usual at such oc-
currences, the evening was devoted to gaiety
and feasting; abundant fare now made an
epoch among us ; and in this laborious life,
in such a country as this, our men had but
little else to enjoy. The temperature at sun-
set was 66", with a clear sky and a very high
wind. By the observation of the evening,
the encampment was in longitude 114° 26'
04'', and in latitude 42" 38' 44".

October 1. — The morning clear, with wind
from the weat, and the thermometer at 5Bfi,

V ,<

I -y

CAl'T. I'HKMo.NT'S NAHIIAIIVF,.

11S4I.

JKi

U",

Wc ii«iron<l('d to the bottom, taking with »•*
the boat, for the purpouc of vii«itinf{ ihf lall
In Ihr oppoititp clifiM ; mid whtlr it whm Umiik
filled with nir, we ociMipii-d oiirm'lveii in
meamirintr tho river, wlmh in I.7MU Ict'l in
breiwttli, wilh bnnkH -»0<) drl IhkIi. Wc
were HurpriHcd, «in our arrivul tit the oppnHltt*
ride, to tiiul n iH'Hiililul biiHiii ot clt-ar wiilrr,
foriiicd by tlio lalliii(( river, around which
thi' ri'"k!» wiTc whitened by moiuc Maliiie in-
crtiHtAtion. Here ihe IndiHiiH had roiiMtrurl-
od wicker dittnx, although I wiih iiil(irin#d
that the cnlmon do not iihcpiuI the rivr bo
far ; and it« character below would apparently
render it impructirablo.

'I'hc HHcent of the utoop hill Kide was ren-
dered a li'tlo ditlinilt by a den»o prowlli of
fihrubrt and lieldii of cane ; iind there wore
frequent hidden crovicoH niiioii^; the rock^,
where the water was heard riiKliiiiK below ;
but we uncceeded in reaching; the main
stream, which, iMuin{; from between Blrata
of the trap rock in two princifml braiulie>»,
produced almuHt immediately a torrent, '2'^
feet wide, and white with foam, It in a pic-
tiirenque upot of Binpular beauty ; overshiided
by buHhcB, from under which the torrent
((lanceH, tumblinf( into the white ImHin below
where the clear water coni ranted lH.'aiitifully
with the muddy stream of the river. Itn out-
let was covered with a rank growth «if cane«,
and a variety of unuHual plants, nnd nettles
{urlica canabina), which, before they wore
noticed, had set our hands and arinH on lire.
The temperature of the Bpring was 6«^,
while that of the river was 61°. The per-
pendicular height of the place at which this
(rtream issues is 45 feet above the river, and
I5'J feet below the summit of the? precipice,
making nearly 200 feet for the height of the
wall. On the hill side here, was obtained a
■pecimen consisting principally of fraginentn
of the shells of email Crustacea, and which
was probably formed by deposition from these
springs proceeding from some lake or river
in the highlands above.

Wo resumed our journey at noon, the day
being hot and bright ; und, after a march of
17 miles, encamped at sunset on the river,
near several lodges of Snake Indians.

Our encampment was about one mile be-
low the Fhhiiip falls, a series of cataracts
with very inclined planes, which arc proba-
bly so named because they form a barrier to
tlie ascent of the salmon ; and the great fishe-
ries from which the inhabitants of this bar-
ren region almost entirely derive a subsi.st-
ence commence at this place. These ap-
peared to be unusually gay savages, ibnd of
loud laughter ; and, in their apparent good
nature and merry character, struck me as
being entirely ditrerent from the Indians we
had oeen accustomed to see. From several
who visited our camp in the evening, wc pur-

c-hnM'd, in e.xriiaiitte for ^(mmIh, dried salmon.
At this Ni-uMon they are not v«'ry fat, but wn
were e.ixily p!ea««il. The liidiuiiM made ui
roiiiprehend, that when the Hulinnn raine U|i
the ri\er in the upring, they an> m> abiindiinl
that they meiely throw in their stM>ar!« at ran-
dom, certain of bring n;( out a tish.

Thene poor [x-oplc are but Hliglilly pr»
vided with winter clothing; there is hut lit-
tle game to fiiriiixli skins for the pur|NiM> ;
and of a little animal which seemed to he thu
inoHt iiiimeruuH, it re(|iiire(l *J0 skins to make
a covering to the knees, iliit they are Ntill
a joyiiiiH talkative race, who grow fut and lic-
coniu |Mior with the salmon, which at leant
never fail them — the dried U-iiig used in tlm
absence of the Iresh. We are eiicaiii|Hd
imiRediiitely on the river bank, and with lliu
salmon jumping up out of the water, and In-
dians paddling about in lx)ats made of riiMlien,
or lau^ihing around the fires, thu camp to-
night has ipiite A lively appearance.

Tho river at this place is more open thaji
for hoinc diftance above ; and, for the limp,
the black precipices have disappeared, ami
no calcareous mutter is visible in tho soil.
The thermometer at sunect 11° ; clear and
calm.

(httibir '2. — 'Hie sunrise tem|)eratiire wi.*
•18' ; tlie weather clear and calm. Shortly af-
ter leaving the encampment, we crossed a
htreiim of clear water, with a variable breadth
of lU to '20 yards, broken by rapids, and light-
ly wooded with willow, and having a liltlo
grash on its small bottom land. The Imr-
remiesH of the country is in lino contrast to-
day with the mingled beauty and grandeur
of the river, which is more open than
hitherto, u ith a constant succession (if falU
and rapids. Over thu edge of the block
clitl's, and out from their ^ces, arc falling
numberless streams and spring.s ; and all
the line ot the river is in motion with thu
play of the water. In about seven milei we
reached the most beautiful and picture.«qiw
fall 1 had fiecn on the river.

On the opposite side, the vertical fall ii«
perhaps 18 feet high; and nearer, the slitcl
of foaming water is divided and broken into
cataracts, where several little islands on tho
brink and in tho river alwve give it much
pictiires<iiie beauty, and make it one of those
places the traveller turns again and again to
lix in his memory. There were several
lodges of Indians here, from whom wo tra-
do<r salmon. Below this place the river
makes a remarkable bend ; and the road,
ascending the ridge, gave us a tine view of
the river below, intersected at many places
by numerous fish dams. In the north, about
50 miles distant, were some high snowy
peaks of the Salmon river mountains ; and
in the northeast, the last peak of the range
was visible at the disUnce of perhaps 100

H4;» I

(APT. FHKMONT'.S NARRATIVK.

iiiilcn or iimrc. Tho rivor hill'* mnHJuf nf
very bniki'ii ninxDCN nf Nanil, rovrrt-d cvi-ry
wiMTf with Iho unmo inti>rti)innlili> firliU «if
•"•ijt', iiiid ()<T«Hionttlly lhi> hmuI in vi'ry lioHvy.
We iiuw vory friMiiiPully naw IikIiiuih, wIio
MTi* Hlriinjj along tho rivi>r nt I'vory liltto

i|)<il wlii'ro fixh nrr to Ito cnii^lit, nml th(>
' ry li'iun'ii, hafj^ni (fmh), wim coriHtnntly
lii'iinl wliniovpr wo pno^pil noiir their hiilx.
• ■r met them in tho nmd. Vrry inriny of
Mii'in \von< (Nidly nnd pnrtinlly droKNod in
iivcrcoat, nhirf, waiHtroiit, or |mntnln(inM, or

vliiitt'\(«r articio of rlothihi; they hud lit'on
iMi' lo procurn in trade from the pinii;rnnt.« ;
I'lr \vi' lind now entirely cpiittcd Iho country
where hawk'H Ih>1Ih, t)eadH, and vermilion,
wcru the nirrent coin, and found that hero
•iiily iHofiil articloN, and chiefly clothinp,
wore In preat reqiitjit. These, however, iire
"iieerly noiipht after; and for a few trillinij
piices of cluthinp, travellerH may procure
;.Mn| Kiitricient to carry them to llie roliiin-
l.ia.

\Vi' miule a lonp Htretch across the iip|M'r
; Iain. Mild encamped on the hliifV, when* the
;;rii?(M wax very preen and pood ; the noil of
I'e iipjier plainH cnntaininp a coiisiderahle
1 i*i>|i()rtion of calcarcoiiH matter. This preen
ii'i-liiiei's of the prass was very renmrkaldc
'. r the seanon of the year. Apain we heanl
Me roar of a fall in tho river helow, where
'Se witter in an nnhroken volume poes over
.1 d"sceiit of several feet. The nii;ht in
I 'o;tr. and the weather continiieH very warm
■:i.l pleasant, with a nunHCt teinperalme of

Odilicr 3. — Tlie morninp was pleasant,
A'iih a tein|)eratHrc at nnnrixc of ■\'2°. 'J'he
r":iil was hroken hy ravinoH ainonp the hillx,
iind in one of these, which made tho bed of
I ilry creek, I found a frapmentary stratum,
'>r brecciated conglomerate, consistinp of
ilinty slate pebbles, with frapmcntd «)f lime-
Kruno contaminp fossil shells.

On the left, tho mountains arc visible at
the distance of twenty or thirty miles, ap-
jiearinp smooth and rather low ; but at in-
tervals higher peaks look out from beyond,
niid indicate that the main ridpo, whicli wo
are leaving with the course of the river, and
which forms the northern boundary of the
(treat Basin, still maintains its elevation.
About two o'clock we arrived at the ford
where the road crosses to the ripht bank of
^^nake river. An Indian was hired to con-
liurt us through tho ford, which prf)ved im-
practicable for us, the water sweeping away
the howitzer and nearly drowning the mules,
which we were obliged to extricate by cut-
ting them out of the harness. The river
here is expanded into a little bay, in which
there are two islands, across which is the
road of tho ford; and the emigrants had
pMsed by placing two of their heavy wag-

poriK iilirea*t of each other, mo n« lo oppoM
a coiisideralile maM« apaiiiMi tin- ImhIv of
water. The Indiaim itilnriiieil im t hut on*
of tiic men, in affeinptiiip to I urn noma
rattle which had taki-ii a wroiiL' direction,
I was r:irriii| oil' by the nirrcni ami ilrowiied,
Since ilii-ir pasKupe, tlii> wati-r hml rinMi
I rnn.-idcrably ; but, f'nrtiiiiately, w.- Ind a
j rcHdiirce III a Ixiaf, wIik-Ii wan lilird with air
I and launched ; and at mcvcii u'riock wr were
I salely i>iicain|M>d on the o|i|Mi>.ite lmiil<, the
aniinalH swiinininp acnmH, ami ihi' carriape,
howitzer, and bappape ol the rain;>. Iteinp
enrrit'd over in the Iwat. At the place
where we croHsed, altovo the i^-liiml-', the
river had narrowed to a breadth ol 1,0 H»
leet by measurement, the greater portion of
which was from six to eight leet deep. Wo
were obliged to make our camp wlicre w«
landed, ainonp the Inilian lo<lpes, which
are Hemi-circiilar huts made ol willow,
thatrhed over with straw, and oikmi to the
sunny Mtiith. Hy observation, tlif hiiiinde
of our encampment on the ripht bank of
the river was 13* 5.5' 68"; chroiioinetric
lonpitiide ll.'i°()l' lO", and the travelled
distance from Fort Mali 'J(»H miles.

Octiihcr \. — (.'aim pleasant day, with tho
thermometer at Hiinrise at 47". heaving
the river at a consideniblo distance to the
let't, and following up tho bed of a rocky
creek, with occasional holes of water, in
alMiiit six miles wo ascended, by a long and
rather steep hill, to a plain (>00 feet above
the river, over which wo continued to travel
diiriiip the day, having a broken ridge -.'.OOO
or .1.000 fool high on the right. Tiie plain
terminates, where we ascended, in an es-
carpment of vesicular trap rock, which sup-
plies tho fragments of tho creek below. Tlie
sky clouded over, with a strong wind from
tho northwest, with a few drops of rain and
occasional sunlight, threatening a change.

Artemisia still covers the plain, but I'ur-
shia Iridentata makes its appearance here on
the hill sides and on bottoms of the creek*
— quite a tree in size, and larger than the
artemisia. We crossed several hollows
with a little water in them, and impioved
grass ; and, turning off from the road in the
afternoon in search of water, travelled about
three miles up tho bed of a willow creek,
towards tho mountain, and found a good
encampment, with woo<i and grass, and little
ponds of water in tlie l)od of the creek ;
which must be of more importance at other
seasons, as we found there several old fix-
tures for fishing. There were many hole*
on the creek prairie, which had been nuule
by the diggers in search of roots.

Wind increased to a violent gale from the

N.W., with a temperature at sunset of 67*.

October 5. — The morning was calm and

clear, and at sunrise the thermometer WM

« V

n^'

r.MT. FKivMO.NT'.i NAUUATIVK.

tt 92". Thv road tonUy who fircrt^inniillv
•xtittmcly rocky, with hanl vulrninc. (rttu-
mflnU, and our travelling wry mIow. In
about ninr milt* tho roaci lm(iiK>il um to a
group of Kniokinff hot Hprin^K, with a ti>in-
peraturo «»f 104 . TUvnt wcw a low holi-
anthi in hiiNHn, with mudo other low plant*,
and ih«> placo wan {;r«><>n nmntl iiliout ; tho
ground warm, and the* air plraMnnt, with a
•ummcr attn(Hipher«> that wan very (tralofiil
in a day of high and cold Nearching wind.
The riM-kH wi>ro covchmI with a whiio and
red inrrtiMtation ; and Ihn water hait on tli*>
tongui' tho HAme unplouMuit ctrctt »h that ol
Ihu ItaMJn Npritig on Ik^ar rivor. They lorrn
Koveral hninrhoH, an«l bubhic up with forco
enough to niiao tho Rmall pcbbloa M>vt>r»l
inchea.

The rollowinff ia an analyaia of tho Jopo-
ih with which tno rocka arc incruatod :

Anahf$u.
Hilica

Carbonate of lime
("arbonato of magneaia
Oxide of iron
Alumina . • •
Chloride of aodium, die.
Hulphate of aoda
Sul!il'»l»» -^f lime, die.
Org jetabic matter

Wat. loaa

TJ.66

14.00

I. 'JO

4.66

0.70

1.10

6.30

lOO.UO

Theae spring! arc near the foot of the ridffo
(a dark and rugged looking mountain), m
which some of tno nearer rocka have a red-
diah nppearancc, and probably conaiat of a
rcddiah-brown trap, fragments of which were
scattered along ttie rt«d after leaving the
spring. The road was now about to cross
the point of this mountain, which we judged
to be a spur from the Salmon river range, we
crossed a tmall creek, and encampeil about
sunset on a stream, which is pnibabiy l^ako
river. This is a small stream, some Ave or
■ix feet broad, with a swift current, timbered
principally with willowa and some few cot-
tonwoods. Along tho banks were canes,
rose buslMB, and clematis, with I'urshia tri-
dentata aad artemisias on the upper bottom.
The sombre appearance of the country is
somewhat relieved in coming unexpectedly
from the dark rocks upon these green and
wooded watercourses, sunk in chasms ; and,
in the spring, the contrasted eflfect must make
riiem beautiful.

The thermometer at sunset 47^, and the
night threatening snow.

October 6. — The morning warm, the ther-
mometer 46" at sunrise, and sky entirely
clended. After travellii.g about three miles

ovor an oxironioly rocky mnd, the volcanic
fraginoiilH iN'^an tu disappear ; and, ontorinn
among llic hilUat Ihn putnt of tho mountaia,
wo found oiiraclves suddenly in a grunito
country. I lore, the character of the vogo-
lation waa wry much changed ; the artmiiaia
diiiappt>an-d alnioitt entirely, ahiowing only at
intorvaU tovvardi tho cliHie of tho day, and
was roplacod by {'urnhia tridonlata, witli IIom-
oring ahrulM, and Minall liolda ndltelfrui ihiart-
rain, wliicli gnvo bliHHn and gnioty to the lulls.
Thoao wore every where covered with a Irotih
and groon »<hort grnaa, like that of tlio oarly
Hiiring. ThiH in the fall or aocond growth,
tho dried gniHM having Im'oii burnt oil by tho
liidiuiiN ; and whorover the lire haa luiHxod.
Mio bright-groon color ia universal. 'IIiohuiI
among tho hills ia altogether dilloroiit from
thai of the river plain, being in many plarea
black, in othera sandy and gravelly, nut of a
firm and good character, appearing to result
from tho dot'ompoMition uf the granili) rorki«,
which In jtrorooding rapidly.

In quitting for a time tho arteim^ia (aagt- 1
through which we had been so long voyag-
ing, and the sombre appearance of which ia
so discouraging, I have to remark, that i
have been informed that in Mexico wlioal ix
grown upon liic ground which prodiicoH tliis
shrub ; which, if true, relieves the noil liom
the character of sterility imputed to it. Ue
this as it may, there ia no dispute alM)ut the
grusM, which ia almost universal on the hilla
and mountains, and always nutritious, even
in its dry state. \Vc passed on the way
iiiaMHOH of granite on tlie slo|)e of a npur,
which was very much weathered and abrad-
ed. This is a white feldspathic granite, with
small scales of black mica ; smoky i|uartz
and garnets appear to constitute tluH |>ort<on
of tho mountain.

The road at noon reached a broken ridge,
on which were scattc<Y>d many boulders or
blocka of granite ; and, passing very small
streams, where, with a little more tiian the
UHuul timber, was sometimea gathered a little
wildorneHH of plants, we encam|)ed on a
small stream, after a march of t)'J miles, in
company with a few Indiana. Temperature
at sunset 61° ; and the night was partially
clear, with a few stars visible through drill-
ing white clouds Tho Indians made an un-
successful attempt to steal a few horses from
us — a thing of course with them, and to pre-
vent which the traveller is on perpetual
watch.

October 7. — The day was bright, clear,

Eleasant, with a temperature of 46° ; and we
reakfastcd at suniise, the birds singing in
the trees as merrily as if we were in the
midst of summer. On tlie upper edge of the
hills on the opposite side of the creek, the
black volcanic rock reappears ; and ascend*
ing these, the road passed tliroiigh a baaio.

184S.

f'AI'T nillMMNTH NAIlllAnVt:.

arourwl whirh th« hill* Mwopl in nueU n iitnn-
nfr MM to uivi* it the ■|tfN>iiniiiri> nl' mi old
mlrr. litiro wrrfl ntnila iiimI hmld-M iH'tU
iif l)liirk Hrorinli'tl rr)cl(, •nd hill* ri>in|MiKi>(l
1)1' till' HHiiic, on iIh* MUininit of om* rif wliidi
ihiT" wnK nil n|MMiinff n'Krinltliti|; n rent
NN'i* trnvi'lli'd to-diiy triniturii a rouiifry ri»-
•iMiililiiit; tlmt dl' yf>iil«>riliiy, wlii'rc, iiltliutiirli
till' HiiriacK wnii hilly, tin* nmil wan (((nmI, Uto
iiiU linn, iiihI nitin>ly froo from ntck* niui
:irt«>iiii)<iii. Tixiiir li>n, liolow, wan tli<>|fn'nt
kH^t< |ili(in ; and nn i\w ri^ht w«rp tin* iictir
iii<iiinlt«iiii«, wliicli proMMiIrd n minMitlily
t rnkrii rlinrai'tvr, or rathi>r a Hiirrarv waved
itito iiiiinlN'rIoM hiilM. Th(> road wan tKca-
Miiiiiilly nilivonod hy tni>t>tintf IndiunH, iind
till' day waa extrumrly iNiaiititnl ntid iilcaa-
mil ; and wt> wi>rp pli*aM>d (o Ixt froo Irointlic
Ki(j.M', pvoa for a day. VVIn'n wo lind trnv-
• llcil alM)ut H miloH, w«* w«*ri' noarly (i|i|Kiiiit(>
• iiiglit'Mt (Hirtion of the mniintainM on
<Im' It'll Midi' nf the Himiko rivor valley ; and,
loiitiniiiiitf on a fow inilva U'vund, wo canio
xiiildiMilv in Bi((lit of the broad ((roon line uf
till' valley of the Hniirr lioiifr (winnIihI
rivor), black near the Korjjo whcro it do-
Ihmk-Iii'h into the plaiiiH, with hiffh prpri|iii-(>H
of l«isfilt, bi'twoon walln of which it imKMOH,
I on onior^rinif from the iiiounlainH. tollow-

nm with the eye ita upward roiirno, it ap-
fioarH to Ih? ohut in amun(( lofty moiintaiiiH,
cimflnin^ iln valley in a very riidTKcd country.

DoHcondint; the hilla, after travelling; a few
miloH akin(( tlic hiffh plain, the road brouf^ht
11)1 down u|M)n the b«>ttom8 of tlie river,
which JH a beautiful rapid utreain, with clear
mounlain water, and, aH the name indicatoH,
well wiK'ded with Hoinc varietiea uf timber —
iiuionff which are handMomc cottonwooila.
Such a 8treain had iiecoino quite a novelty
III iliiH country, and we were delighted this
afternoon to make a pleaKant camp under fine
old trecu a((uin. There were neveral Indian
etu-riinimientn Hcattered alouff the river ; and
■i number of their iiihabilantH, in the courtK>
ol the evetiinjr, came to the camp on horxe-
lack with dried and frcBli fiah to trade. The
< veiiini; was clear, and the temperature at
^iiriHct 67".

At the time of the first occupation of IIuh
r<-^i»m by parties eitj^ged in the fur trade, a
-iniill party of men under the cummand of

Keid, constituting all the garrison of a

li'tlo fort on this river, were surprised and
MiiiHHacrcd by the Indians ; and to this event
the Ktreani owes its occasional name oVReid's
rher.

On the 8tli we travelled about 26 miles, the
ridge on the right having scattered pines on
the upper partu ; and, continuing the next
day our road along the river bottom, after a
day's travel of 24 miles we encamped in the
•Tcning on the right bank of the river, a mile
above tne mouth, and early the next morning

arrived at Kort ll>'i»f Thii i« a limpl*
dwolling-lii)iiM> on the ritihl biuik of Nnakit
river, alMnii a tnilo In>Iow the inoulh of
Riviere IIoImmW' ; mid on our arrival wo wore
roroued with anauroenlile lio«piliilily by Mr.
Payotle, nn olRcer of tho IIiuImhi liny <'oui<
pniiy. ill cliiirKo of iho fort -. nil ol mIiovo
^iirrimiii cotiHinled III a t'niiadinii i»\;im^.

Ill-re I'll) rmid recnmcei* Ihe river, which in
lirund ntid deep; bill, Milli our giMHl boat,
aided by two rnno«>», which were loimd nt lh««
place, the rniiip wan very xtNiii traimlerrod to
the left bank. Here we found ournelvoa
ntfain xiirroiiiided by llie mh^;!* ; nrtemiMia tri*
deiit»tn,nnd the diHereiil xlirulMt w hich during
our voyii^e had iilwayn iiindo their appi'ar-
mice aliiindunlly on Kiiliiio noilH, lN>ing bore
the prevailing and almowt the only iilanlK.
Anions Ihetii tho Miirfaco wan roveri><l with
Iho iiNiinl Hiiline ot1lorei>coiiceM, which hero
coiiitiHt alinoMt entirely of cnrlNHiate of noda,
with a Hniull |Hirtion of chloride of Hodium.
Mr. I'liyctte hill! made but nlight attempts
at cullivHlioii, bin ed'orlfi being limited to
niihiiitf a lew vegetableH, in which he nuc-
ceedeil loliTiiliiy well ; the jMint iK'ing prilici-
nally Hii|i|Mirteil by miIiiioii. He was very
iioHpilabie hikI Ixiiid to iih, mid wu made a
Henxiblo iin|ir<>Hhiiiii u|Nin nil biit comeHtiblcf ',
but our principal itirmid was into tho dairy,
which WHN abiiiulnntly Mippliud, ^itm-k ap|)car-
ing to thrive extremely well ; and wo hiid an
uniiHiinl luxury in a prenont of Irosh butter,
which wni, however, by no means equal to
that of Fort Hall — nroliably from some acci-
dental caiiMe. During tho day we remained
here, there were coimidenible iiiiinberH of
iniHorable balf-iiukod Indians around tho fort,
who had arrived from tho neighlioring moun-
taiuri. During the summer, the only sub-
nifitenco of Ibeso |ioople is derived from the
salmon, of which they are not provident
enough to lay up a siifltc'ent store for the
winter, during which many of them die from
itbtioliite starvation.

Miiiiy little accounts and scattered histo-
rioH, toirethor with an acijuaintance which I
gradually acquired of their modes of life, had
left the aboriginal inhabitants of tliis vast re-
gion pictureuin my mind as a race of people
whose great and constant occupation was the
means of procuring a subsistence ; and though
want of space, ana other reasoM.will prevent
me from detailing the many incidents which
made these things familiar to me, this great
feature among the characteristics of the
country will gradually be forced upon your
mind.

Pointing to a group of Indiana who had
just arrived from the mountains on the left
side of the valley, and who Were regarding
our usual appliances of civilisation with an
air of bewildered curiosity, Mr. Payette in-
formed me that, every year since hn arriva^

: >

> rj

■1

-pi

.■Mi

■-''}'..

tOQ

• '.VrP. niHMnNTN NAUIIATIVK

flAtt.

tN«<rrltl to litll, l:ttli> «in'>l(i*« \>oilM Im> M't'll

riwiiiL' iiiii'iii;( \\t' iii<>iih(iiiii«, »li)*ri> (III-)
^vuiiM Im' Ii.iiii.| in iiiiHcr.ililcyniiii'f. >«t«rviiij{
mil till' wiril'T; iiml ^iMMi'liiiii'n. rn'r<iriliity In
till' p'lii'nil b-lii'l', ri'.liii'i'il III ilii* Imrror ol
CNniiitNiliHiii — ilii> KtMiiiT, «'• roiirfo, |iri'yin(r
on the woiik. ('rrtiiin it in, itii-y iiro ilrlvfii
to liny oxlrrmiiy I'T I>m(iI, ninl cat i-vrry iif
Kcrt, iirul I'vcry rrfi'piiijj tliini;, liowcviT
l(>ntliH<iiiii> ami rc|iiil»ivi'. SniiilK, li/itnU,
antM — nil nrc ilrvonro-l with tho ri'iidiiii'MM
tinil ijri'i'ilim'HM of mrri' iiniinnU.

In criiiiiiinti with hII tlii' (illii>r Imliitiii* we
liHil I'lirniiiitrriMl hIiico riMirliiiiif tho I'lirilic
walern, iIichi' |>rii|ilu iioi' the SIiohIioikm' or
Snakn lan^iia^o, wliicli ymi will Imvo o^ru-
■ion to ri'iiiurk, in llio courMO ol the imrrn-
tiro, in tho iiiiivorMil lan{(imi;o over a very
••xtnnnivi! rojjidii.

On tilt' t'Voniii){ of the lOdi, I obtainnl,
with the iiHiiiil o)iriei-vui>>Mir<, H very exrellent
oincrMion of tho lirxt mitcllite, uyrreiiifj very
ooarly with the rhronooieter. From thene
obMorvntionn, the loniri'iile of the lort in
IIO"' 17' 00", liititiiile 1:1" J'.C '2-2", and
elevntioii nliove tlie m-a 'J, 100 feet.

Sitlinp hy the lire on the river hank, and
waitiiiff for the iiiinit'rnion of the satellite,
which did not take plHco until after midni|rlit,
wo heiird the monotonoiin sonjj of the In-
diaoH, with w liich tliey uerotnpiiny a certain
game of which they are very fond. Of the
poetry wc cniild not judge, but the muiiic wan
mixenihle.

OrUibrr 11. — The morning WM clear, with
a light hrceze fniin the eaut, and a tem()«'ra-
ture at sniiriHC of 33". A part of a huilock
purchiiKod at the fort, together with the lioat
to BHsiHt him in crossing, wan left hero for
Mr. Fitzpatrick, and at 11 o'clock wc re-
sumed our JDiiriioy ; mid directly leaving the
river, and cro»Ning tho nrtemisia plain, in
Hoveral ascents we reached the foot of a
ridge, whore the road entered a dry sandy
hollow, up which it continued to tho head ;
and, crossing a dividing ridge, entered a
Himiiar one. Wo met here two poor emi-
grants (Irishmen), who had lost their horses
two dayM hIik e — probahiy stolen by the In-
dians ; and worn returning to the fort, in
hopes to hear something of them there.
They had recently had nothing to '..it ; and I
halted to unpack an anims', and gave them
meat for their dinner. In this hollow, the
artemisia is partially displaccci on the hill
■ides by grass ; and descending it — miles,

ahiiul Nunart we rr«ehr«| the HuHrr rtii,r
Mulhriirn the iintortuimte nr iinhi< ky riM-r),
H rtiiinldenilile utreaiii, with an iixrnige
lireadlh ol .V) feet, aixl, at lliin lime, I ^ incite*
■ti'iilh ol water.

The Ihilloiii liiiidM were generally inn- niid
a hall mile hrond. covered prini'i|xitly with
long dry grn»M ; mid we hud ilillhiilty to lind
•<iilnci"nt ijihmI ynixK lor the rniiip. Willi
the exception of u had place nf ii few htiiutied
yariU loiiir, wliirh oeciirreil in roumliiig a
|Miint ol liill to renrli the ionl < I the river,
ilie riNid during the day had iM'eii very goiMl.

IhiiJfr I'J. — The iiiorning wa* clear niid
calm, and the theriiioiiieler at Kiiiiri«e 'iW",
My atlenlioii wa<« ■ttracled l>y n HUioke on tli<*
riifht oide of the river, a little In-low the Imd,
where I found on the low luink, near the wa>
ter, a considerable iiiiihImt of hot »|iriii;;i<, in
which the leiii|M'ratiire o| the water wan lIKi"
The ground, which wa^ loo hut for I lie naked
fiMif, wiiN covered alntve mid Iwl'iw the ^|lrill^;<
with un iiicriiNtatioii of conuiioii hhU, very
while iind giwHl, and line-graiiieil.

Iieadini' for A iiiiieH up a broad dry branch
of the iNlalheurn river, the rond entered a
Haiidv hollow, where the Kiirlnic wan ren-
dered linn hy the admixture ol other rork
iN'ing giMMl and level until arriving near the
heaifot the ravine, where it iHCaiue a little
rocky, and we met with a niinilier of f>liarp
BHcentM over an iinlulatiiig hiirluce. Chmh-
ing here a dividing ridge, it liecaiiie an e.x-
cellent road of gradual descent down a very
marked hollow ; in which, alter 10 miloH,
willowN liegan to apfiear in the dry U'd of a
head of tiie liiiiirr mix Ihiulnnix (Kirch
river) ; and descending 7 milch, wc found,
at its junction with another branch, a little
water, not very good or abundant, but niitVi-
i lent in case of necensity for a camp. Cross-
ing Dirch river, wc continued for alioiit I
miles acroKs a |)oint of hill ; the country on
the lelt iR'ing entirely mountainoiiH, with no
level HjMit to be seen ; whence we descended
to Hnake river — here a tine-looking stream,
with a large Uwly of water and a smooth
current ; althoiijrli we hear the roar, and»ee
below us the comiiieiicemeiit ol rajiids where
it enters anumg the hill.s. It forms heru i\
deep bay, with a low sand inland in the
midst ; and it.s course among the mountains
is agreeably exchanged for the black vol-
canic rock. The weather during the day
hai been very bright and extremely hot ;
but. its usual, so PiMin as the sun went down,
it was necessary to put on overcoats.

I obtained this evening an observation of
an emersion of the first satellite, and onr ol»-
servations of the evening place this encami>-
aent in latitude 44° 17' 36", and longitude
lir»*> 50' 45", which is the r,,( ,,n of thu re-
Bulta from the satellite am <<iironometer.

IMS]

CArr FrU'.NfoNTH naiiuative.

Till" i'lrv»f' in %hnvr tlin ■on I, HMO fi-it Al
lliiM I'm inpiniMil, tlio f^rtun In nciinly nii<l

ih-iiJhr n.— Til" nmriiinK who ''rijjlif,
witli ill)' li>iii|M'rnliiri> iil Kiiiirinc 'JH' . Tlic
linroi'H linil i>trii))-i| (iir<lnrin(f tin* iii({lit, pni-
ImIiIv ill vriiri'li iif (fni»<« ; niiil, hOit n cuii
■iilcriiMr ili'iiiy, wi' liiiil miii'i'immIi'iI in litiilinu
all lull tun, wliiMi, nUiiit II oViiM-k, \m* liriirii
tlt(> woiititl iif nil liiiliiiii KotiK mill ilniin n|i>
riMU'liiii^; mill xhnrtly iiniT, tliri*<> ('iiyiiMO
itilinnx ii|i|>«-iiri>il in m^^lil, ll^in^ill^ witli
ilii-ni till* (wo nniinnU. Tlioy Im'Iiiii^i>(| io a
|inrly wliicli liml Imtii on n liiilTiilu hunt in
the niMithlxirhiKMl of thn Uockv mountain",
uiiii wiTi' liiirryini; home in iiiivmiro \W
pD'vi'iid'd (hi'in with Koiiii' tolNK'cii, aiiil (illicr
thin^H, with whirli llii>v ii|i|H<»r<>(i well •>iilii«<
fit'il, mill, niiHl(>rutin(f tlicir |iun', tnivrili-tl in
I'lttnpnny with im.

\V»« wi'ri' now iiliout to U'nve thr vnlloy of
tlir* ((D'lit Moiithrrn hrnncli ot tlii< folunihia
rivi'r, li> whirli tho nlmonrn of tiiiilMT, nii<l
till' Krnrcily of wnti-r, \f}\i' tin* Hp|M>ttrunro nt
n ih'xrrt, to enter it inoiiiitninoiiN ri'|{i'.tn
vs here tlio xoil ix |;oo<t, nnil in which the fnci*
of the country in I'overril with nutritiouii
;;riifii('« nnti ilrn««' forei-t — Inml rnibrucinK
niiiny viirirtien of trcrit m-ruiiar to tli(> ooiiii-
try, mid on which the tiiniirr exliihitu a lux-
iirinnct' of jrrowth unknown to the pattern
l<«rt of the continent and tn Riiropo. Thin
intiuntiiinouH ri*)rion connortH jtHolf in the
foiithwnrd und wentwiird with the riovnted
roiintry iK'Jonyinif to thn Cttscndo or ('uiilbr-
niu riin^e ; and, uh will Im roinurked in the
rourne of the iiiirrative, foriiH the etihtern
limit of the fertile and timliered laiidii nUma
the deHert and inoiintuinoiiH region ineliided
wiliiin the (ireiit Hnnin — a te'in which I up-
[ily to the intermediate rei^'on between the
Uorky mountains iind the next ran^re, cou-
uiiniii); many laken, with their own nyHtein
of riven* mid creekw (of which the (Jreiit
Salt iH the principul), and which have no
ronnection with the ocean, or the jrreat
riverH which (low into it. Tliiri (ireat Dubin
ii! yet to Ikj adequately explored. And here,
on (juittini; the banks of a ntcrile river, to
enter on arable mountains, the remark niny
W made, that, on this western slope of our
rnntinont, the usual order or distribution of
(.'•kmI and bad soil is often reversed; llie
river and creek bottoms being often sterile,
and darkened with the glwimy and barren
arleinisia ; while the mountain is often fer-
tile, and covered with rich grass, pleasant to
the eye, and good for flocks and herds.

leaving entirely the Snake river, which
is said Tienccforth to pursue its course
through canons, amidst rocky and impracti-
cable mountains, where there is no possibili-
ty of travelling with animals, we ascended a
long and aomewhat steep bill ; and croeaing

the dividing riflge, rniiui ilown into tho val-
ley of Hur»l river, wh rh lure |iN>k.-< like a
hole among the hill« The nvernge lirradth
of (he Htreiiin here it .'U feet; it Im wfII
fringed with the umuil aiiu II (inil)er ; mid iht*
xoil in the liotlomM ix giuid, wjih Utter grn«*
than we linit lately l>e< ii nci iminiiieil to »v% .

We now Irnvelleil thri>iigh 4 very nioiin-
laiiiouM etiiiiiiry ; tli(> xtrinni running rntlirr
ill A ravine lh„n n valley, and the mad in de-
cidedly bnd und dmigen'iiii fur single wa-
gons, lrei|uently eni-fin;,' the iitreatn v»her«
the water is fioiiielimei deep; and all th«
day the nniinaU were fatigued in climbing
up mid deNcending a succesxiun of stri>p a«-
cenlM, to avoiil ihe pieripilous hill Hides;
and the common trail, which leatU al'ingthe
mountain side nt places where the river
I'Irikes the bufe. is i<(iinetiiiie« bud even for
u liorsemnn. The moimtnins along thia
day i iourney were t (inijK)Hei!, near the river,
ef ri slaty ralcareoits roi k in 11 metniiuir|ihir
conililioii. It appears originnlly to have
iN'eii a slaty t-edimeniury limentune, but ila
preM'iit ii;iidi;i(>n indicates that it has hern
altered, and has become p:trtia!ly rryrtalline
— probably froiii the pri>.\iniity of volcanic
rock-*, lint tli(iii;.'li travi liiiig was m|ow ant!
Iali|;iiing to llii> iiiiimais, vsi* vv<>re delighted
with the appearance of the country, which
was green and refrei.hini; after our (rdioua
journey down (ho pnrclied valley uf Snake
river. The mountains were covered with
g(K)d biiticli gras.* (Iintunt); the water ol
Ihe streams wan cold und pure ; their bot-
toinn wire handMimelv vvooumI with varioiu
kinds of treeH ; and fiuge mid lofty and pic-
turesi|iie precipicen were displayed wheru
the river cut throu;;li the mountains.

We found in the evening Home good grasa
and rushe.'4 ; und encamped among large
timber, priiu ipally birch, which had been re-
cently burnt and blackened, und almost de-
stroyed by Hre. The night was calm and
tolerably clear, with the tlierinometer at sun-
set al ftU". Our journey to-day was about
•JO inilos,

(h-Uiber II. — Tlio day was clear and calm,
with a temperature at sunrise of -IG". After
travelling about three inilos up the valley,
we found the river shut up by precipices in
a kind of caAon, and the road make.i a cir-
cuit over the mountains. In the ufternoon
we reached the river again, by anullior little
ravine; und, after travelling along it for a
few miles, left it enclosed among rude moun-
tains ; and, ascending a smaller branch, en-
cnm|)ed on it about 6 o'clock, very much
elevated above the valley. The view waa
everywhere limited by mountains, on which
were no longer seen tho black and barren
rocks, but a fertile soil, with excellent graaa,
and partly well covered with pine, rhavo
never aecu a wagon road equally bnd in the

• •••.

>■

■■■til

;t*

1U4

C.M'T. FRK.MONTS NAIIRATIVK.

[1848.

same (tpnce, us this of yostenlfty luid Icvday.
I noticed where one wiijjoii had been over-
turned twice, in a very bhort diHtanco ; and
it was surprising ti ino that thos-e wiipoiiH
whicli were in the rear, nnd could not nave
had much iissi.-tance, jfot throiifjh at all.
Still, there i.s no mud ; and the road has one
advantHfj*^, in Unng perfectly linn. The
day had been warm and very pleasant, and
the niijht was perfectly clear.

Octolirr 15. — The tliennometer at dayliirht
was 42°, and at sunrise 40°; clouds, which
wore sc4ittere(l over all the sky, disappeared
with the risinfr Run. The trail did not much
improve until we had croHscd the dividing

5 round between the BruU (Burnt) and Pow-
er rivers. The rock displayed on the moun-
tains, as wc approached the Hummit, was a
compact tran, decomposing on tlio exposed
surfaces, anil apparently an altered argillace-
ous sandstone, containing small crystalline
nodules of anolcime, apparently filling cavi-
ties originally e.xisting. From the summit
here, the whole hori7.on shows high moun-
tains ; no high plain or level is to be seen ;
and on the left, from south around by the
west to north, tlic mountains arc black with
pines ; while, through the remaining space
to the eastward, they arc bald with the ex-
ception of some scattered pines. You will
remark that wo are now entering a region
where all the elevated parts are covered with
dense and heavy forests. From the dividing
grounds we descended by a mountain road
to Powder river, on nn old bed of which we
encamped. Descending from the summit,
we enjoyed a picturesque view of high rocky
mountains on the rijjlit, illuminated by the
setting Fun

From the heights we had looked in vain
for a well-known landmark on Powder river,
which had been described to me by Mr.
Payette as Cnrhn: aeiil (the lone tree) ; and,
on arriving at the river, we found a fine tall
pine stretched on the ground, which had
been felled by some inconsiderate emigrant
axe. It had been a beacon on the road for
many years past. Our Cayuses had become
impatient to reach their homes, and travelled
on ahead to-day ; and this afternoon we were
visited by several Indians, who belonged to
flie tribes on the C(.iumbia. They were on
horseback, and were out on a hunting ex-
cursion, but had obtained no better game
than a large grey hare, of which each had
some six or ?even hanging to his saddle.
We were also visited by an Indian who had
his lodge and family in the mountain to the
left. He was in want of ammunition, and
brought with him a beaver skin to exchange,
and which he valued at six charges of pow-
der and ball. I learned from him that there
are very few of these animals remaining in
this part of the country.

The tcmpontturc at sunset was 61°, and
the evening clear. I obtained, with other
observations, an immersion and emersion of
the third satellite. B<levation 3,10U feet.

Octitbrr 16. — For several weekf the
weather in the daytime has been very beau-
tiful, clear, and warm ; but the nights, in
comparison, are very cold. During the night
there was ice a quarter of an incn thick in
the lodge ; and at daylight the thermoinctor
was at 16'^, and the same at sunrise; the
weather being calm and clear. The annual
vegetation now is nearly gone, almost all
the plants being out of bloom.

I^st night two of our horses had run ofl*
again, which delayed us until noon ; and we
made to-day but a short journey of 13 miles,
the road being very good, and encamped in
a fine bottom of Powder river.

The thermometer at sunset was at 61",
with an casterlv wind, and partially clear
sky ; and the day has been quite pleasant
and warm, though more cloudy than yester-
day ; and the sun was frequently faint, but
it grew finer and clearer towards evening.

October 17. — Thermometer at sunrise 26*.
The weather at daylight wan fine, and the
sky without a cloud ; l)ut these came up, oi
were formed with the sun, and at 7 were
thick over all the sky. Just now, this ap-
pears to be the regular course — clear and
brilliant during the night, and cloudv during
the day. There s snow yet visible in the
neighboring mountains, which yesterday ex-
tended along our route to the left, in a lofty
and dark-blue range, having much the ap-
pearance of the Wind river mountains. Il
IS probable that they have received their
name of the Bliie mountains from the dark-
blue appearance given to them by the pines.
We travelled this morning across the afflu-
ents to Powder river, the road bein^ good,
firm, and level; and the country Became
constantly more pleasant and interesting.
The soil appeared to be very deep, and is
black and extremely good, as well among
the hollows of the hills on the elevated blats,
as on the river bottoms ; the vegetation being
such as is usually found in good ground.
The following analytical result shows the
precise qualities of this soil, and will justify
to science the character of fertility which the
eye attributes to it :

Analysis of Powder river soil.

Silica 72.30

Alumina 6.26

Carbonate of lime 6.86

Carbonate of magnesia .... 4.62

Oxide of iron 1.20

Organic matter ....... 4*60

Water and loss 4.27

100.00

1848.

I84S.J

CAVT. FltKMONTS NAtlKATlVK.

\0§

72.30
6.25
6.86
4.62
1.20
4-60
4.27

From tlip waters of this ntrcam, the road
aiicpnded by a gord and moderate aHCcnt to
a dividing ridge, hut immediately entered
u|)<)n ground covered with fragments of an
altered niliceouH shite, which arc in many
pliicea large, and render the road racking to
a carriage. In ihiit rock the planes of depo-
Ritinii are distinctly preperved, and the meta-
morpliifrn is evidently due to the proximity
of volcanic rocks. On either side, the moun-
t4iin8 here are den!>ely covered with tall and
handsome trees ; and, mingled with the

S-een of a variety of pines, is the yellow of
c Kuropean larch (jtinus larix), which
loHcs its leaves in the tall. From its present
color, we were enabled to sec that it forms a
large proportion of the forests on the moun-
tains, and is here a magnificent tree, attain-
ing sometimes the height of 200 feet, which
1 believe is elsewhere unknown. About two
in the afternoon we reached a high point of
the dividing ridge, from v;hich we obtained
a good view of the Grand Rond — a beauti-
ful level basin, or moimtain valley, covered
with good grass, on a rich soil, abundantly
watered, and surrounded by high and well-
timbered mountains ; and its name descrip-
tive of its form — the great circle. It is a
place — one of the few we have seen in our
journey so far — where a farmer would de-
ligiit to establish himself, if he were content
to live in the seclusion which it imposes. It
is about 20 miles in diameter ; and may, in
time, form a superb county. Probably with
the view of avoiding a circuit, the wagons
had directly descended into the Rimd by the
face of a hill so very rocky and continuously
8teep as to be apparently impracticable ;
and, following down on their trail, we en-
camped on one of the branches of the Grand
Rond river, immediately at the foot of the
hill. I had remarked, in descending, some
very white spots glistening on the plain, and,
going out in that direction after we had en-
camped, I found them to be the bed of a dry
salt lake, or marsh, very firm and bare,
which was covered thickly with a fine white
powder, containing a large quantity of car-
bonate of soda (thirty-three in one hundred
parts).

'I ,ie old grass had been lately burnt off
from the surrounding hills, and, wherever the
fire hiid passed, there was a recent growth
of fitrcmg, green, and vigorous (rrass ; and
the soil of the level prairie, which sweeps
directly up to the foot of the surrounding
mountains, appears to be very rich, produc-
ing tlax spontaneously and luxuriantly in
various places.

Analysis of the Qrand Rond soil.

SOica
ilinmina

70.81
10.97

Lime and magnesia
(Jxide of iron ....
Vegetable matter, partly decomposed
Water and loss ....
Phosphate of lime

The elevation of this encampment
2,940 feet above the sta.

October 18. — It began to rain an hour be-
fore sunrise, and continued until 10 o'clock;
the sky entirely overcast, and tlio tempera-
ture at HiinriKe 48°.

We resumed our journey somewhat later
than usual, travelling in a nc:irly north di-
rection across this Iwaiitiful viilley ; and
about noon reached a place on one of the

[)rincipal streams, where I had determined to
eave the emigrant trail, in the expectation
of finding a more direct and better road
across the Blue mountains. At this place
the emigrants appeared to have hehl some
consultation as to their further route, and
finally turned directly off to the left ; reach-
ing the foot of the mountain in about three
mMes, which they ascended by a hill as steep
and difficult as that by which we had yester-
day descended to the Rond. Quitting, there-
fore, this road, which, after a very rough
crossing, issues from the mountains by the
heads of the Umalilah river, we continued
our northern course across the valley, fol-
lowing an Indian trail which had been indi-
cated to me by Mr. Payette, and encamped
at the northern extremity of the Grand Rond,
on a slough-like stream of very deep water,
without any apparent current. There are
some pines here on the low hills at the creek ;
and in the northwest corner of the Rond is a
very heavy body of timber, which descends
into the plain. The clouds, which had rested
very low along the mountain sides during
the day, rose gradually up in the afternoon ;
and in the evening the sky was almost en-
tirely clear, with a temperature at sunset of
47". Some indifferent observations placed
the camp in longitude 1 17" 28' 26", latitude
45** 26' 47 ' ; and the elevation was 2,600
feet above the sea.

October 19. — This morning the mountains
were hidden by fog ; there was a heavy dew
during the night, in which the exposed ther-
mometer at daylight stood at 32", and at sun-
rise the temperature was 36".

We passed out of the Grand Rond by a
fine road along the creek, which, for a sboit
distance, runs in a kind of rocky chasm.
Crossing a low point, which was a little
rocky, the trail conducted into the open val-
ley of the stream — a handsome place for
farms ; the soil, even of the hills, being rich
and black. Passing through a point of

188

^^1

9.21

'III

a.ia

6.46

1.01

100.00

nent is

■ '^?'

:''♦!

,:!

.,* H

'AA

106

CAl'T. rRi;M()N'I'".S NARRATIVK.

[1843.

f^tl;

f lines, wliirli Ixiro oviiliiuv'.-* of Ijciiij; miicli
requontcd by tin' Iniliiins, iind in which tliu
trees were woiiu'tltiuM appiireiitly 1200 feet
I»ii;h ami 3 to 7 I'M-t in (liumcter, we lialtetl
for a few inimitcs in Ihi* nfleriHMin iif the foot
of the Hlne inoimtiiiii", on a hranch of the
Grand Kond rivi-r, iit ;ui eleviitioti of 2,700
feet. Resiiinin<»oiirji>uriiey, we commenced
tlic aHceiit of the iiioMMtiiiii through an open
pine forest of hirgo ;um| stately tree.'', ainon^
which the iulsam pine made its appearance ;
the road beini' ko'^Ji ^^i^'' *''o exception of
one steep accent, with a corre.spondinjr ile-
flccnt, which inigiit both h:ive been eas^ily
avoided by opr nln^ a way for a short din-
tanco throng), the timt)er It would have
been well hat* wo encam|)ed on the stream
where we had halted below, as the nijrlit
overtook us on the mountain, and we were
obliged to enramp without water, and tie up
the animals to tlio trees for the night. We
had halted on a smooth open place of a nar-
row ridj;e, which descended very rapidly to
a ravine or piney hollow, at a considerable
distance below ; and it was quite a pretty
Hpjt, had there been water near. But the
t'.rcs at night look very cheerless after a day's
march, when there is no preparation for sup-
per going on ; and, after sitting some time
around the blazing logs, Mr. Preuss and
Carson, with several others, volunteered to
take the India rubber buckets and go down
into the ravine in search of water. It was
a very difficult way in the darkness down the
slippery side of the steep mountain, and
harder still to climb about half a mile up
a^ain ; but they found the water, and the cup
ot cofiee (which it enabled us to make) and
bread were only enjoyed with greater pleas-
ure.

At sunset the temperature was 40® ; the
evening remarkably clear ; and I obtained an
emersion of the tirst satellite, which does not
give a good result, although the observation
was a very good one. The chronometric
longitude was 117° 28' 34'', latitude 46° 38'
07", and we had aj^ccnded to an elevation of
3,830 feet. It appeared to have snowed yes-
terday on the mountains, their summits
showing very white to-day.

October '20. — There was a heavy white
frost during the night, and at sunrise the
temperature was 37°.

The animals had eaten nothing during the
night ;.and we made an early start, continu-
ing our route among the pines, which were
more dense than yesterday, and still retained
their magnificent size. The larches cluster
together in masses on the sides of the moun-
tains, and their yellow foliage contrasts hand-
somely with the green of the balsam and
other pines. After a few miles we ceased
to see any pines, and the timber consisted of
several varieties of spruce, larch, and balsam

nine, which have a regularly conical figure.
These trees appeared from (iO to nearly 200
feet in height ; the usual circumference be-
ing 10 to 12 feet, and in the pines soinetimeH
21 feet. In open places near the summit,
these trees became less high and inoru
branching, the conical form having a greater
base. Tlio instrument carriage occasioned
much delay, it being frequently iiecessiiry to
fell trees and remove tne '.alien timber. The
trail we were following led up a long ^pur,
with a very gradual and gentle ri-je.

At the end of three miles, we halted at an
open place near the summit, from which we
enjoyed a line view over the mountiiinous
country where we had lately travelled, to
take a barometrical observation at the height
of 4, 4 GO feet.

After travelling occasionally through oj)en
places in the forest, we were obliged to cut
a way through a dense body of timber, from
which we emerged on an open mountain
side, where we found a number of small
springs, and encamped after a day's journey
of lU miles. Our elevation here was 5,0UU
feet.

October 21. — There was a very heavy
white frost during the night, and tin' ther-
mometer at sunrise was 30".

We continued to travel thrcugh the forest,
in which the road was rendered dilFicult by
fallen trunks, and obstructed by many small
trees, which it was necessary to cut down.
But these are only accidental diflicullies,
which could easily be removed, and a very
excellent road may be had through this pass,
with no other than very moderate ascents or
declivities. A laborious day, which had ad-
vanced U3 only six miles on our road, brought
us in the afternoon to an opening in the
forest, in which there was a tine mountain
meadow, with good grass, and a large clear-
water stream — one ot the head branches of
the Umaliliih river. During this day's jour-
ney, the barometer was broken ; and the ele-
vations above the sea, hereafter given, depend
upon the temperature of boiling water. Some
of the white spruces which I measured to-
dsiy were twelve feet in circumference, and
one of the larches ten ; but eight feet was the
average circumference of those measured
along the road. I held in my hand a tape
line as I walked along, in order to form some
correct idea of the size of the timber. Their
height appeared to be from 100 to 180, and
perhaps 200 feet, and the trunks of the
larches were sometimes 100 feet without a
limb; but the white spruces were generally
covered with branches nearly to the root
All these trees have their branches, particu-
larly the lower ones, declining.

October 22. — The white frost this morning
was like snow on the ground ; the ice was a
quarter of an inch thick on the creek, and the

1843.1

CAI»T. FREMONT'S NARUATIVK.

101

tlicrmoin '!> r at iiinriso was at 20*. But, in
a fi'w lioiirH, ilie tiny bocamo warm uiid plea-
sant, and our rond over tlic niountaiiifl was
doli^rhtml and full of ciijuyinent.

'I'lio trail piisHod soinetimcH tliroii^li very
thick yountr timber in wiiich there was much
rullinjr to he done ; but, after travelling a
lew miles, the mountains became more bald,
and we reached a point from which there wan
a very extensive view in the northwest. VVc
were here on the western verjie of the Blue
moiuilainH. long spurs of which, very pre-
cipitous on either side, extended down into
the valley, the waters of the mountain roar-
in<j bot\v«'en them. On our righ*. was a
Diountiiin plateau, covered with a dense for-
est; and to the westward, immediately below
us, was the great iS'ez Perci (pierced nose)
prairie, in which dark lines ot timber indi-
cated the course of many aflluents to a con-
niderublc stream that was seen pursuing its
way across the plain towards what appeared
to be the Columbia river. This I knew to be
the VVaJahwalah river, and occasional spots
along its banks, which resembled clearings,
were supjwsed to be the mission or Indian
settlements •, but the weather was smoky and
unfavorable to lar views with the glass. The
rock displayed here in the escarpments is a
compact amorphous trap, which appears to
con.stitutc the mass of the Blue mountains in
this latitude ; and all the region of country
through which we have travelled since leav-
ing the Snake river has been the seat of
violent and extensive igneous action. Along
the Burnt river valley, the strata are evident-
ly sedimentary rocks, altered by the intrusion
of volcanic products, which in some instances
have penetrated and essentially changed their
original condition. Along our line of route
from this point to the California mountains,
there seems but little essential change. All
our s|)ecimens of sedimentary rocks show
them to be much altered, and volcanic pro-
ductions appear to prevail throughout the
whole intervening distance.

The road now led along the mountain side,
around heads of the precipitous ravines ; and,
keeping men ahead to clear a road, we passed
alternately through bodies of timber and small
open prairies, and encampsd in a large
meadow, in view of the great prairie below.

At sunset the thermometer was at 40", and
the night was very clear and bright. Water
was only to be had here by descending a bad
ravine, into which we drove our animals, and
had much trouble with them, in a very close
growth of small pines. Mr. Preuss had walk-
ed ahead, and did not get into the camp this
evening. The trees here maintained th.-ir
size, and one of the black spruces measured
15 feet in circumference. In the neighbor-
hood of the camp, pines have reappeared here
among the timber.

October '23. — The morning was very clear ;
there had been a heavy white frost during
the night, and at sunruo the thermometer
was at 3I».

After cutting through two thick bidips nf
timl)or, in which I noliceil mhiu' t^mall trees
of htmlork sprtice (iifnis.^r), the forest be-
cam«' more open, ami wv had no longer any
trouble to closira way. The pint's here were
1 1 or 12 feet in rirciUMrcreiice. and about IIU
feet high, and appeared to love the ojien
grounds. The trail now led along one of the
long spurs of the mountain, descending grad-
ually towards the plain; and nttor a few mile;-
travelling, we emerged llnally from the for-
est, in full view of the plain Ix-Iow, and saw
the snowy mass of Mount Hood, standing
high out above the surrounding country, at
the distance of 180 miles. The road along
the ridge was excellent, and the grass very
green and good ; the old grass having lieen
burnt off early in the autumn. About 4 o'-
clock in the afternoon we reached a little
l)ottom on the VValahwaluh river, where we
found Mr. Preuss, who yesterday had reach-
ed this place, and found himself too far in
advance of the camp to rettirii. The stream
here has just issued from the narrow ravines,
which are walled with precipices, in which
the rock has a brown and more burnt aj)-
pearance than al)ovc.

At sunset the therm<mieter was at 48" ;
and our position was in longitude 118" 00'
39", and in latitude 45" 63' 35".

The morning was clear, with a tempera-
ture at sunrise of 24". Crossing the river,
we travelled over a hilly country with good
bunch grass ; the river Iwltom, which gen-
erally contains the best soil in other coun-
tries, being hero a sterile level of rocks and
pebbles. VVe had found mo soil in the Blue
mountains to be of excellent quality, and it
appeared also to be good here among the
lower hills. Reaching a little eminence,
over which the trail passed, we had an ex-
tensive view along the course of the river,
which was divided and spread over its bot-
tom in a net-work of water, receiving sevral
other tributaries from the mountains. There
was a band of several hundred horses grazing
on the hills about two miles ahead ; and as
we advanced on the road we mot other bands,
which Indians were driving out to pasture
also on the hills. True to its general cha-
racter, the reverse of other countries, the
hills and mountains here were rich in grass,
the bottoms barren and sterile.

In six miles we crossed a principal fork,
below which the scattered water of the river
was gathered into one channel ; and, passing
on the way several unfinished houses, and
same cleared patches, where corn and pota-
toes were cultivated, wo reached, in about
eight miles farther, the missionary esfcablisb-

■I

,iA'

.'•ft

CAVT. FIIKMONT'S NAURAI'IVK.

[1843.

*.r..

mont nf Dr. Wliittnan, whirli roiiHiritfil, nt
tliia tiiiip, of one ailniit- Iioiihu — i.e., built of
unburnt brickn, ns in Mi<xic-n.

I roiiiiil Dr. Wliitintiii iilHrtit on k viait to
the Dallen v{ tliu CuliinibiH ; but liiid tli«>
pleaanro to hoc a ruie-lookin); Inrnv I'liinily ttf
emigrantH, men, wiiiiion and children, in ro-
bust licalth, nil indoinnifyMi^ llicniHelvcrt lor
prcvioiiH ricanty fare, in a lie.irty conHumii-
tiun of potntoox, wliicli arc !<i'«MiiiCL-tl lioro of
a remarkably {^(hkI (|uali*y. Wo were dis-
ap|M>inted in our expo'jtation oi' obtaininir
corn meal or Hour at this station, the mill
belonging to the misHion having been lately
burnt down ; but an abundant supply of e.x-
cellent potatoen baniHlied regrettt, and fur-
nished a grateful HulMtitnte for bread. Anmall
town of Nez I'erce Indians gave an inhabited
and even a populous ap|M;arance to the station ;
and, after remaining about an hour, we con-
tinued our route, and encamped on the river
about four miles below, passing on the way
an emigrant encampment.

Temperature at sunset, 49°.

October 36. — The weather waj pleasant,
with a sunrise temperature of 36°. Our
road to-day had in it nothing of interest ;
and the country olTorcd to the eye only a
sandy, undulating plain, through which a
scantily timbered river takes its course.
We halted about three miles above the
mouth, on account of grass ; iknd the next
morning arrived at the Nez Pcrci fort, one
of the trading establishments of the Hudson
Bay Company, a few hundred yards above
the junction of the Walahwalah with the
Columbia river. Here we had the first
view of this river, and found it about 1 ,200
yards wide, and presenting the appearance
of a fine navigable stream. We made our
camp in a little grove of willows on the
Walahwalah, which arc the only trees to be
seen in the neighborhood ; but were obliged
to send the animals back to the encampment
we had left, as there was scarcely a blade
of grass to be found. The post is on the
bank of the Columbia, on a plain of bare
sands, from which the air was literally filled
with clouds of dust and sand, during one of
the few days we remained here ; this place
being one of the several points on the river
which are distinguished for prevailing high
winds, which come from the sea. The ap-
pearance of the post and country was witli-
out interest, except that we here saw, for
the first time, the great river on which the
course of events for the last half century
has been directing attention and conferring
historical fame. The river is. Indeed, a
noble object, and has here attained its full
magnitude. About nine miles above, and in
sight from the heights about the post, is the
junction of the two great forks which con-
stitute the main stream — that on which we

hud been travelling from Fort Hall, ami
known by the names of I^^'wis's fork, Sho-
nhonee, and Hnake river ; and the North fori.,
which has retained the name of ('oluml)i:i,
a>4 iN'ing the main stream.

We di'l not go up to the junct\)n, bcin ;
presxed for time ; but the union of two Inrc''
streamx, coining one from the floutheaHt,iiii<l
the other from the northeaHt, and meeting in
what may be treated as the gcographioil
centre of the Oregon valley, thence doublin-
the volume of water to the ocean, wliil<
opening two great lines of communiratiou
with the interior continent, constituten ;i
feature in the map of the country wlii( !i
caimot bo overlooked; and it was probiil.' •
in reference to this juncti(m of waters, im I
these lines of communication, that this pi
was established. They are important line-.
and, from the structure n' the country, niuir
for ever remain so — one tf them leading lo
the South Pass, and to the valley ol tin-
Mississipi ; the other to the pass at the hciid
of the Athabasca river, and to the countrie i
drained by the waters of the Hudson liiiy.
The British fur companies now use b(it'>
lines i the Americans, in their emigraliuji
Oregon, have begun to follow the one wliicl^
leads towards the United States. Bateans
from tide water ascend to the junction, n ml
thence high up the North fork, or Columbia.
Land conveyance only is used upon the line
of Lewis's fork. To the emigrants to Ore-
gon, the Nez Perce is a point of interest, a.-<
being, to those who choose it, the termination
of their overland journey. The broad ex-
panse of the river here nivites them to em-
bark on its bosom ; and the lofly trees of the
forest furnish the means of doing so.

From the South Pass to this place is about
1,000 miles; and as it is about the same
distance from that pass to the Missouri river
at the mouth of the Kansas, it may lie as-
sumed that 2,000 miles is the necessary land
travel in crossing from the United States t<t
the Pacific oceau on this line. From the
mouth of the Great Platte it would be about
100 miles less.

Mr. McKinley, the commander of the post,
received us with great civility ; and both to
myself, and the heads of the emigrants who
weiB there at the lime, extended the rights
of hospitality in a comfortable dinner to
which lie invited us.

By a meridional altitude of the sun, the
only observation that the weather permitteil
us to obtain, the mouth of the Walahwalali
river is in latitude 46° 03' 46''; and, by the
road we had travelled, 612 miles from Fort
Hall. At the time of our arrival, a con-
siderable body of the emigrants under the
direction of Mr. Applegate, a man of con-
siderable resolution ana energy, had nearly
completed the building of a number oi

184fl.l

CAI»T. FREMONT'S NAllUATIVE.

109

Mackinaw baitx, in which Ihcy proponed to
continue their further voyaire tluwn the
(/oiiiinliia. I had Keen, in JeHcendiniif the
Wiiliihwalah river, a fine ilrovo of Hevcral
huniired cattle, which they had exchan|;ed
for Culirornian cattle, to Im» received at Van-
couv«'r, and which are connidered a very
inferior breed. The other portion of the
«'iiiij.'rHtion had preferred to complete their
journey hy land ulon|; the ImnKH of the
r'olimihia, taking their utock and vvitguns
with them.

iluvinff nunforced our animalH w'tli eight
frenh liorsen, hired from the |M>nt, and in-
croaHcd our Mock of provinionH with dried
salmon, potatoes, and a little U'ef, we re-
*umed our journey down the lefl bank of the
I'olumbia, \mnfr guided on our roitd liy nn
intelligent Indian boy, whom I had engHgod
loncrompany us as far uh the DalleH.

From tin elevated iHjint over which the
vmd led, wo obtained another far view of
Mount Hood, 15U miles distant. VVc ob-
\iiiiu-d on the river hank an observation of
Uif Hun at noon, which (rave fur the latitude
16^ 68 08". The country to-day was very
imprepoHHessinc, and our road bad ; and as
we toiled slowly along through deep loose
sands, and over fragments of black volcanic
rock, our laborious travelling was strongly
contrasted with the rapid progress of Mr.
Aj)i)U'gate'8 fleet of boats, which suddenly
came gliding swiftly down the broad river,
which here chanced to bo tranquil and
smooth. At evening we encamped on the
river hank, where there was very little grass,
und less timl)er. We frequently met Indians
\)n the road, and they were collected at every
(iivorable spot along the river.

Oc.litber *29. — The road continued along
tiie river, and in the course of the day Mount
^t. Helens, another snowy peak <Jf the Cas-
cade range, was visible. We crossed the
IJnia-lilah river at a fall near its mouth.
This stream is of the same class as the
Wiilaliwalah river, with a bed of volcanic
rocK, in places wplit into fissures. Our en-
>!i.npment was similar to that of yesterday ;
lli.TO was very little grass, and no wood.
Tlie Indians brought us some pieces for sale,
f> liicli were purchased to make our tires.

October 31. — By observation, our camp is
ii, latitude 46" 60' 06", and longitude 119°
2;i' 18". The night has been cold, and we
li ive white frost this morning, with a tem-
fi trature at daylight of 25°, and at sunrise
oi' 21**. The early morning was very clear,
aud the stars bright ; but, as usual since we
aie on the Columbia, clouds formed imme-
diately with the rising sun. The day con-
tinued fine, the east being coverecl with
scattered clouds, but the west remaining
clear ; showing the remarkable cone-like
peak of Mount Hood brightly drawn against

the sky. This wan in view all day in th«
southwest, but no other peaks of the range
were visible. Our road was a had otip, of
very loose deep sand. Wo met on the way
a party ol Indians unusually well drosseJ,
wearing clothes of civilized texture and
form. They ap|H>ar('d iiitclli<;(*iit, and. in
our slight intercourse, iinpresM'd ine with
the U'lief that thoy I'dHsi ssod sunu' aptitude
for acquiring liingiiH<;(>s.

Wo continued to tnivi'l along the river,
the stream U-ing interspersed with ninny
sand bars (it iM-iiig the smson ol low water)
and with many islands, and an apparently
go«Kl navigation. Small willow i were the
only wood ; rock and sand the proiiiinent
geological feature. The rock of this section
IS a very compact and tough basalt, occurring
in slrutii which have the appeamnce of l)eing
broken into fragments, assuming the form of
columnar hills, and appearing always in es-
carpments, with the broken fragiiienls strew-
ed at the base and over tlie adjoining coun-
try.

We made a late encampment on the river,
and used to-niyht jyurxhia tr'ulenititn for lire
wood. Among the rocks which lormed the
hank, was very good green grass. I latitude
46° 44' 23", longitude 119° 46' 09".

IS'oretnber 1. — Mount Hood is glowing in
the sunlight this morning, and the air is
pleasant, with a temperature of 38". We
continued down the river, and, passing
through a pretty green vulley, iKiunded by
high precipitous rocks, encamped at the lower
end.

On the right shore, the banks of the Co-
lumbia are very high and steep ; the river is
1,690 feet broad, and dark blufls of rock give
it a picturesque appearance.

November 2. — The river here entered
among blufl's, leaving no longer nxim for a
road ; and we accordingly lell it, and took a
more inland way among the river hills ; on
which we had no sooner entered, thnn we
found a great improvement in the country.
The sand had disappeared, and the soil was
good, and covered with excellent grass, al-
though the surface was broken into high
hills, with uncommonly deep valleys. At
noon we crossed John Day's river, a clear
and beautiful stream, with a swift current
and a bed of rolled stones. It is sunk in a
deep valley, which is characteristic of all the
streams in this region; and the hill we de-
scended to reach it well deserves the name
of mountain. Some of the emigrants had
encamped on the river, and others at the
summit of the farther hill, the ascent of
which had probably cost their wagons a day's
labor ; and others again had halted for the
night a few miles beyond, where they had
slept without water. We also encamped in
a grassy hollow without water ; but as we

• V,

1 •

•."-li

-'I

■ 1 lil

110

(;ai»t. krkmonts narrative.

11848.

fe;

litd beoti rornvviirnoil of thiH privation by tlin
({iiiilt>, till' aniiimlN luul nil Immmi watcrod ut
liu- rivi-r, ail we iiaii bri>ii((lit witli Utt a huI-
licicMit i|ii;iiiUly r»r tlio iiiKlit.

Mtunn'h r'A. — Alter two li(Mjr»'ri(li' throii^rh
u loriik', liilly country, covi-ri'd iix hII tlio iip-
Uii.l luTi- a|)|M'iirs to Iw with (jckkI j;rt'cn
Kr.i'<r', wi' il.'.i('tMnii'il iij^ain into llii' river liol-
U)iii, iiloii„' uliicli wo rt'rtuincil our Mtorilo
roinl, uiul I'l iiltoiit lour niilvH reacbod tlic
ford ol tli<> I'll! riviT {Uiiiirc. aux Chairs),
a C()ii.»iiltT.tl)lK tributary to tbe Columbia.
Wir li:ut ti.vird on roucbini; Ibc Ncz I'ercc fort,
a re|)i>titiiiiioftbL' uccoiinl in ro^rurd totbe un-
Ntittlt'd cliiiriU'tor of the C'olinnbia IndiiuiH at
tlie pritsi'ul liuu' ; and to our liltio party tliey
bad ut various points iniinifetitcd a not very
friendly di.sposilion, in Hever>l attoinptH to
•teal (Hir liorKOH. At thin placo I cxi)ccted
*o tind u b.idly disposed band, who bad plun-
dered u party of 1-1 emigrant men a few days
before, and taken away tbeir horses ; and
accordingly wc made the neces-sary prcpara-
liuns for our security, but happily met with
DO dilHculty.

The rivui' was high, divided into several
arms, with a rocky island at its outlet into
the Columbia, which at this place it rivalled
iu size, and apparently deserved its highly
eharacloristic name, which is received Irom
one of its many falls some forty miles up tbe
river. It entered the Columbia with a roar
of falls and rapids, and is probably a favorite
(isbing Btalion among the Indians, with
whom both banks of the river were |)opulous ;
but tiiey tfiarcely paid any attention to us.
'J'he ford was very diificult at this tune, and,
bad they en'.ertained any bad intentions, they
were oIU-iihI a good opportunity to carry
them out as I drove directly into the river,
and durin;r the crossing the howitzer was
occasionally several feet under water, and a
number of the men appeared to be more often
below than above. Our guide was well ac-
quainted with the ford, and wc succeeded in
setting everything safe over to the left bank.
We delayed here only a short time to put
the gun in order, and, ascending a long
mountain hill, loft both rivers, and resumed
onr route again among the interior bills.

The roar of the Falls of the Columbia is
heard from the heights, where we halted a
few moments to enjoy a fine view of the
river below. In the season of high water it
would be a very interesting object to visit, in
order to witness what is related of the annual
submerging of the fall under the waters
which back up from the basin below, consti-
tuting a great natural lock a^ this place.
But time had become an object of serious
consideration ; and tbe Falls, in their present
state, had been seen and described by many.

After a day's journey of 17 miles, we en-
camped among the hills on a little clear

stream, where, an usunl, the Indiana imme-
diately gathered round us. Ainung them
was a very old man, almottt blind Irotn n'ji\
with long and very white hair. I hiipiMneil
of my own accord to give this old m.u\ a prt-
sent of toliacco, and was struck with the im-
prexsion which my iinpropitiated notice nmdi,'
on the Indians, who up|M>ared in a remaika-
lile manner uc(|iiainted with the real value ol
g(M>ds, and to understand the ei|iiivalents of
trade. At evening, one of them s|)oke a few
words to bis |MMiple, and, telling mo that wc
need entertain no uneasiness in regard to our
animals, as none of them would be disturbed,
they went all i|uietly away. In the morning,
when tliey again came to the camp, I ex-
pressed to them the gratiKcation we felt at
tbeir reasonable conduct, making them a pro-
sent of some large knives and a few smaller
articles.

Wxr.mliiT 1. — The load continued among
the hills, and, reacbinfj an eminence, we saw
before us, watered by a clear stream, a
tolerably large valley, through which the
trail passed.

In comparison with the Indians of the
Rocky mountains and the great eastern

fdain, these are disagreeably dirty in their
labitH. Their huts were crowded with half-
naked women and children, and the atmo-
sphere within anything but pleasant to per-
sona who bad just been riding in the fresh
morning air. We were somewhat amused
with tbe scanty dress of one woman, who, in
common with tbe others, rushed out of the
huts on our arrival, and who, in default of
other covering, used a child for a fig leaf.

The road in about half an hour passed near
an elevated point, from which we overlooked
the valley ot the Columbia for many miles,
and saw in the distance several houses sur-
rounded by fields, which a chief, who had
accompanied us from tlie village, pointed out
to us as the Methodist missionary station.

In a few miles we descended to the river,
which we reached at one of its remarkably in-
teresting features, known as the Dalles of the
Columbia. Tbe whole volume of the river at
this place passed between the walls of a
chasm, which has the appearance of having
been rent through tbe basaltic strata which
form the valley rock of the region. At the
narrowest place we found the breadth, by mea-
surement, 58 yards, and the average height
of the walls above the water 25 feet ; form-
ing a trough between the ro»ks — whence the
name, probably applied by a Canadian voya-
geur. The mass of water, in the present
low state of the river, passsed swiftly be-
tween, deep and black, and curled 'nto many
small whirlpools and counter currents, but
unbroken by foam, and so still that scarcely
the sound of a riopie was ncani. The rock,
for a considerab.e distance from the river.

[1848.

inimc-
'i tliem
tin iij^i',

|>|*)'|IC(I

I a prc-
tlii* ill)-
I' iniiilit
iii;it'kn-
It I lit* ()(

MtH of

■ a few
hilt we
I ti»o\ir
tiirbcd,
loriiinp,
I ex-
lelt at

1843]

CAPT. FRRMONT'S NARRATIVE.

Ill

WM worn over a larff« portion of itx unrfaro
into circular IioIph and wpll-liko cnvitifx, hy
iho nl»ra«i()n of tlin rivor, which, al Iho ncn-
»4<)n of \uff\\ walcru, in Hpri'iid out over lhi»
adjoiiiitii; hottoini.

In till* rt'ftjt |l.l^^ni^(r(• through lhi>i chiifm,
i*n iinliirf iiniil»> ovciit hiiil orcnrrod tn Mr. Ap-
plt't.'HleV party, in Iho Nms of oiio of their
l)ontH, which had Ikhmi curried niidiT wiili-r in
llic midHt of the Ditllfn, imd two (if Mr. .Apitle-
i;ate'M children and one iniiti drowned. I'Iuh
iiiiKlortiino WUH nttrihiitod only to wiint of
•kill ill the Hteernnian, ns at ihi.s heawon there
i^ no imfiediinent to nnvi^ration: nlthoii^h
the i)lnce is entirely imprisHnlile at hiyh wn-
lur, when boalH pann nsilely over the jrreut
lulls above, in the Biiliinerjnjd Btato in which
iJiey then find tluMn'olves.

ilie li.iMalt here is precJHoly the wime nn
Uiat which constitiiteH the rock of the valley
liiirhcr np the CoUiinhia, being very coini>.ict,
with a few round cavities.

Wo panned rapidly three or four miles
down the level valley, and encamped near
the mission. The character of the forest
growth here changed, and wo found our-
selves, with pleasure, airaiii among oaks and
other forest treeH of the oast, to which we
hwl long been strangers; and the hospitable
and kind reception with which we were wel-
comed among our country people at the mis-
sion aided the momentary illusion of home.

Two good-looking wooden dwelling houses,
and a large rcIiooI nouse, with stables, barn,
and garden, and largo cleare<l lields iM'tween
the houses and the river bank, on which
were scattered the wo<iden huts of an Indian
village, gave to the valley the cheerful and
busy air of civilisation, and had in our eyes
an apiK'arance of abundant and enviable com-
fort.

Our land journey found here its western
termination. The delay involved in getting
our camp to the right bank of the Columbia,
and ill o|)eiiing a road through the continu-
ous forest to Vancouver, rendered a journey
along the river impracticable; and on this
hide the usual road acros.s the mountain re-
quired strong and fresh animals, there being
an interval of three days in which they could
obuin no food. I therefore wrote immedi-
ately to Mr. Fitzpatrick, directing him to
abandon the carts at the Walahwalali inis-
Rionaty station, and, as soon as the necessary
pack saddles could be made, which his party
required, meet me at the Dalles, from which
point I proposed to commence our homeward
journey. The day after our arrival being
Huiiday, no business could be done at tiie
mission , but on Monday Mr. Perkins assist-
ed me in procuring from the Indians a large
canoe, in which I designed to complete our
journey to Vancouver, where I expected to
obtain the necessary supply of provisions

and Htores for onr win'er joiirney. Thni«
Indians, from the family to wlii>iii the canoit
lielonged, were engaged to ah«i-l in w. rkinjj
her during the voyage, and, \siili tlicni. our
water party consisted of .Mr. I'renss and my-
self, with Hernier and Jacob Doil^oii. in
charge of the party which was to reiiriin iil
the Dalles I lelt (*ur»-on, with iii.-lriictioii-' la
occupy the people in making pm-k MoMlett
and n litling tlieir t-ipiipage. 'I'lie vilhiije
from wliicli we were to take llie canoe wad
on the right bank ol the rivr. alMuit ten
miles Ik>Iow. at the mouth nl the Tiniineiiit
creek ; and while .Mr. I'reiiss proceeded
down the river with the iiisiriMiienIs, in a
little canoe |iinldled by two Indians. Mr. Per-
kins accompanied me with the remainder of
the parly by land. The last of the eini(,'ranlM
had jii.Ht lelt tli(> Dalles at the time of onr ar-
rival, travelling i-oine by water and others by
land, making ark-like raits, on which tlin
had iMiibarked their lamilies and hoiiseliold,
with their large wagons and other furniture,
while their stock were driven along the
shore.

For about five miles Inflow the Dalh^s, the
river is narrow, and j.robably very ileep ; but
during this distance it is soine'shat open,
with grassy InUtoms on the left. Kritering.
then, among the lower inoiinlaiiis of the
(Jascade ranire, it assumes a general charac-
ter, and high and steep rocky hills shut it in
on either side, rising abruptly in places to
the height of 1,500 feet alxtve the water, and
gradually acquiring a more inountainoiis
character as the river approaches the Cas-
cades.

After an hour's travel, wiien the sun wa*
nearly down, we searched along the shore
lor a pleasant place, and halted to prepare
supper. We had been well siipjilied by our
friends at the mission with delicious salted
salmon, which had been taken at the fattest
season ; also, with potatoes, liread, collee,
and sugar. We were delighted at a change
in our mode of travelling and living. 'I'lie
canoe sailed smoothly dow^n the river : at
night we encamped upon the shore, and a
plentiful supply of comfortable provisions
supplied the first of wants. We enjoyed the
contrast which it presented to our late toil-
some marchings, our night watchings, and
our frequent privation of (ood. We were a
motley group, but all happy : three unknown
Indians; Jacob, a colored man ; Mr. Preiiss,
a German ; Bernier, creolc French ; and
myself.

Being now upon the ground explored by
the South Sea expedition under Captain
Wilkes, and having accomplished the object
of uniting my survey with his, and thus pre-
senting J. connected exploration from the
Mississippi to the Pacific, and the winter be«
ing at liand, I deemed it necessary to econO'

■■.jV

■:

•a

Ill

CAI'T. FKKMONT'tJ iNAHIlATIVE.

[1843.

misn tiiiiM l)v voyAgiii|{ in tlut iiiulit, em Im
cuatoiiikry h<>re, In avoid tho hiKl' wiiiiiM,
wliicli ri-"' with Uio moriiiti|r. hikI (Jecline
Willi ttif <i ly.

A('roriliiii{ly, iillur an hoiir'ti halt, wo HKuiii
r'inh:irk<-<l, iiiid rt'Huiiicd our pleaHant voya^o
ilowii i!i<' river. Tho wind ronu to a gniei
alter scviiul lioiirM ; hut the in<M>n waH very
hriijlit, uiid the wind wiu lair, and the cun(Mi
I'liini ed r.ipidly down the Htrcain, thu wavcH
Creaking; into loam aion^Hide ; and our
ni^'iil voyii^e, ax tho wind bore uh rapidly
aloMi; Ix'twecn the dark inonntuinK, wan wild
and int> Tfhtini; About niidni^'ht we put to
tho ttlioro on a rocky beach, behind which
wad a diirk-iookiu(f pino loroHt. We built up
lar^u tires among tlic rocks, which were in
iar^e niiis.^ea round about ; and, arran^jfin^;
our hlimkelH on tho moHt Hhcltered places wo
could liml, panned a (leli(rlitl'ul nivht.

Alter Hii early broiikfuHt, at daylight we
resumed our journey, tho weather being
clear and Iteautifnl, and tho river nmooth
and Htill. On cither Hide tho mountains are
all pine-liinlH'reil, rocky, and high. We
were now approaching one of tho marked
features ol tijo lower Columbia, where the
river form.s a great cascade, with a aeries o(
rapidn, in breaking through the range of
mountaiiH to which the lofty peaks of Mount
Hood ■<i'\d Ht. Helens belong, and which rise
as great pillars of snow on either side of tho
passage. Tho main branch of tho Sacra-
mento river, and the Tlamalh, issue in cas-
cades from this range; and tho Columbia,
breaking through it in a succession of cas-
cades, gives tlio idea of cascades to the
whole range ; and hence tho name of Cas-
cade Ranug, which it bears, and distin-
guishes it from the Coast Range lower down.
In making a short turn to the south, the
river forms the cascades in breaking over a
point of agirlomeratcd masses of rock, leav-
mg a iKinJsome bay to the right, with seve-
ral nH*ky pinc-covored islands, and the
mountains sweep at a distance around a
nove where several small streams enter the
bay. In less than an hour we halted on the
left bank, alwut five minutes' walk above
the cascades, where there were several In-
dian huts, and where our guides signified it
was customary to hire Indians to assist in
making the portage. When travelling with
a boat as light as a canoe, which may
easily be carried on the shoulders of the In-
dians, this is much the better side of the
river for the portage, as the ground here is
very good ana level, being a handsome bot-
tom, which I remarked was covered (as was
now always the case along the river) with a
growth of green and fresh-looking gr^js.
It was long before we could come to an un-
derstanding with the Indians ; but at length,
when they had first received the price of

their amtiHtnnco in goodii, they went vi^or-
ou»ly to work; and, in a shorter time limn
had lieen o<M-upictl in making our urran^e-
menlH, the can(H>, instrumentH, and lNig|iH((e,
were carried through (a distance of uImmiI
half a mile) to tho bank below the lunni
caacade, where wo auain emlmrked, liie
water licing white with fuain among u^ly
rocks, and lK)iling into a thousand whirl-
pools. The boat passed with great rapidity,
crossing and recrusaing in tho eddies ol the
current. Alter passing through almut two
miles of broken water, we ran some wihl
looking rapids, which are culled the l^iwer
Rapida, being the laat on the river, which
below is tranquil and amooth — a broad, mug-
niliccnt atream. On a low broad point on
the right Imnk of the river, at the lower end
of these rapids, woro pitched many tents of
the emigrants, who were waiting here for
their friends from above, or for boats and
provisions which were expected from Van-
couver. In our passage down the rapids, I
had noticed their camps along tho shore, or
transporting their goods across the p«)rtage.
This i)ortage makes a head of navigation,
ascending tne river. It is about two milea
in length ; and above, to the Dalles, is 4fi
miles of smooth and good navigation.

We glided on without further interruption
between very rocky and high steep moun-
tains, which sweep along the river valley at
a little distance, covered with forests of pine,
and showing occasionally lolly escarpments
of red rock. Nearer, the shore is bordered
by steep escarped hills and huge vertical
rocks, from which the waters of the moun-
tain reach (he river in a variety of beautiful
fails, sometimes several hund.ed feel in
height. Occasionally along the river occur-
red pretty bottoms, covered with the green-
est verdure of the spring. To a profession-
al farmer, however, it does not offer many
places of sufficient extent to be valuable for
agriculture ; and after passing a few miles
below the Dalles, I had scarcely seen a place
on the south shore where wagons could get
to the river. The beauty of the scenery
was heightened by the continuance of very
delightful weather, resembling the Indian
summer of the Atlantic. A few miles be-
low the cascades, we passed a singular iso-
lated hill ; and in the course of the next six
miles occurred live very pretty falls from the
heights on the left bank, one of them being
of a very picturesque character ; and towards
sunset we reached a remarkable point of
rocks, distinguished, on account of prevail-
iug high winds, aiul the delay it frequently
occasions to the canoe navigation, by the
name of Cape Horn. It borders the river
in a high wall of rock, which comes boldly
down into deep water ; and in violent galeo
down the river, and from the opposite shore.

[1843.

1843.

CAIT. FUKMO.NTS NARIIATIVK.

lit

which iit the prevailing; (iirnrtinii III' htroni;
kviiidH, ihi' wiitcr in iIiihIu'iI it^uiii'-t it with
ioii)«iii<'nilili> violi'iu't'. It n|i|H'iirH to lnriii n
•.••rimiM iilmtiicitt to catKN* triiv«'lliii|{; miii I
WiU iiiloriiM'd liy .Mr. INrltiiiii, tliut in n voy>
up' up the river li«> liiul In'on (li'tniiinl two
\\i'i>l(H lit lltiN pluci', iinil wan liniilly ()l)li(;fil
1(1 ntiirii to Vmicouver.

'I'lii- vsimlrt uf tliJM reifion (icnt'rvt* ii pnr-
liciilitr Hiiuiy. TiM'y l)low in curri'ntii,
uhii^h kIiovv tlioni to Im) unvcrned by lixivl
lawH ; iiiul it ii4 a prolilcni now far tlicy nmy
i'liini! Iroin thu niounUinM, or from tliuoccHii
lliroii(rli tlio broalts in tlio inountainH whicli
id oiii llu« river.

'I'ho liillx here lind hwt Honu'thintf of tlieir
i<icl<y itp|)i'iirunc(>, and Imd already l)0);nn to
ilfciiM''. Am the Hiin went down, we i«cari*h-
I'll iilon^r tiii> river for an inviting H|Nit; and,
limliii^ a clean rocky hcach, where soine
iitr){t; dry Ireen were lyinff on the (ground,
we run our l)oat to the nhore ; and, alter an-
nthor couilortMhle supper, ploughed our way
uloii^' the river in darknesH. lleavv cloudn
I omtimI the Hky thin cvenint;, and the wind
lt>}r!in to sweep in (^usts among the treex, bh
ii liiicl wouther were coming. Am we ad-
vanced, the hillt* on both Bid' h grew con-
.-taiitly lower; on the right, r. -treating from
till' nhorc, and forming a somewhat exten-
sive bottom of intermingled prairie and
uoiHled land. In the course of a few hours,
lul ()|i|N)site to a small stream coming in
troiii till' north, called the Tea Prairie river,
the highlands on the left declined to the
liliiiii.", and three or four miles below disap-
[leiired entirely on both sides, and the river
ciitored the low country. The river had
^Tiulually expanded; and when wo emerged
Iroin the higlilands, the opposite shores were
.-io distant as to appear indintinct in the un-
certainty of the light. About 10 o'clock
>)ur pilots halted, apparently to confer about
tho course ; and, after a little hesitation,
pulled directly across an open expansion of
the river, where the waves were somewhat
rou^h for a canoe, the wind blowing very
iH'oh. Much to our surprise, a few minutes
iiltorwards we ran aground. Backing off
our l)()at, we made repeated trials at various
|)lHces to cross what appeared to be a point
>'t )<hirting sand bars, where we had at-
ii'inpted to shorten the way by a cut-off. Fi-
iiiiliy, one of our Indians got into the water,
tml waded about iintil he found a channel
-^uliicicntly deep, through which we wound
•iii>n(r after him, and in a few minutes again
filtered the deep water below. As we pad-
dled rapidly down the river, we heard the
iioiRe of a saw mill at work on the right
l)ank ; and, letting our boat float quietly
down, we listened with pleasure to the unu-
sual sounds ; and before midnight encamped
on the bank of the river, about a mile above

Fort Vaiicoincr. Our (iiif dry mMithcr had
■{ivt'ii |iliu'i> to adiirk < lomly inuhl. .At mid*
riii;lit It lic^aii to ruin: and vm< IhiumI our*
M'lvcri Hiiiidi'iiiy in IIm> gloomv and humid
KcaMon, which, in tlit> narrow r«'i;ioii lying
lM-tw<'«>n tlii> I'acitic and tin- Cit^cadi' iiioiiii<
liiiiiH, and lor a (-oihkIitiiIiIc dir-tancc along
thf conHt, Hii|i|ilii>N till' |ih(ci> of winter.

In thu iiiorniii^, tlic fir^t iili|<>ct that at*
trartcd my attention vmih (lie l>ari|iie (.'olum*
hia, lying at iinihor near the laiidiii^r. Hhe
was uliout to Htart on her vo\ii^e to Kii^land,
and was now ready lor M>a ; liein^r detained
only in waiting the nrriMil ol the exproHN
liateauH, which doHcend the Coliiniliia and
itrt north fork with the overland mail from
Canada and lliidHon'ri hay, which had been
delayed lH>yond their uxiiai time. I iinniodi*
ately waited upon Dr. McLaughlin, the rx*
ecutive otlicer of the lliidi-oii Il;iy Company,
in the terrilu'y west of the Uocky nr "ui-
tains, who received me w ith the courtesy and
hospitality for which he Iiiih Im-cii eniiiu<ntly
distinguiHhcd, and wliicii inukeH a forcible
and delightriil imprehnion on a traveller
from the long wilderneMH Irom which we had
insued. I was immediately niipplied liy him
with the necoHsary Htoren nnd provisions to
refit and supiMirt my party in oiircoiitcmplat*
ed winter journey to the Mtiitex ; and also
with a Mackinaw boat and canoeH, manned
with Canadian and IroqiioiH voyageurs and
Indians, lor their tranH|)ortatiuii to the Dalles
of the Columbia. In addition to this etHcient
kindness in furnishing nie with these neces*
sarv supplies, I received from him a warm
anu gratifying sympathy in the suffering
whicli his great experience led him toantici*
|)ate for us in our homeward journey, and a
letter of recommendation and credit for any
officers of the Hudson Hay Company into
whose posts we might be driven by unex*
pected misfortune.

Of course, the future supplies lor my party
were paid for, bills on the (jovernmeut of the
United Stales being readily taken ; but every
hospitable attention was extended to me, and
I accepted an invitation to take a room in the
fort, " and to make myself at home while 1
slaved"

I found many American emigrants at the
fort; others had already crossed the river
into their land of promise — the Walahmette
valley. Others were daily arriving; and all
of them had been furnished with slielter, so
far as it could be afforded by the buildings
connected with the establishment. Necessa-
ry clothing and provisions (the latter to be
afterwards returned in kind from the produce
of their labor) were also furnished. This
friendly assistance was of very great value
to the emigrants, whose families were other-
wise exposed omuch suffering in the winter
rains, which had now commenced, at tha

'il

■ St.

' •»■

•*.,i--i

114

CAIT. niKMONTrt NAKKATIVi:.

[I«4I

r-^VT

Mmo tim* ihit lJi«»y w-to in wuii «»f »ll »'•'•
conunoii ivc<»h< irn-* nt lil«'. 'I'Im* • wlin li nl
Ukmi » wi'iT nuivi'ViiiK"'' h( tln' \<>A IVrci
f<irl ci»iiliiiii"i| In iirrivf' -ul'i-ly, Willi ii'> i»tln»f
itccidciil limn In* l»'"ii iilri'ii'ly iivniiimi'd
Tlio |»i»rly wliirh Iml rriu*oi\ n\i>r Hi"' ('n*-
cmIi) III iiiiitiiin-' w«'ri' r<*|n»rii'il in Imvi' 'oxt h
iititii!»>r ol llii'ir iiiiiini'n ; iiml tlnwc wlm Irul
ilriviMi tli"ir Htork down tlio Coliiinliiu liud
bruuilii t'li'in MiiU-ly in. and loiiiid lor tln'tn ii
ri'.iJv md very proliiulilc lutrkcl, nii I wrri'
li^rcidy |irii|io4ini; lo rciiirn lo llic Sditci in
tlic M|iriii4 lor i»nollii'r Hiipply.

(n 111" H|)iii« 1)1 two d.iyn mir prninrntionn
liid 1) 'I'll compli'tivl. mid wi» wi'n* nvidy to
Hi't out on oiir r.-inrii. It would Imvc Iti't'n
very (xnitifyiiiK to Irivo jjont' down to llu' I'd-
ciflf, an I, mM\ in tlie init'rt'-'t and in tin* lovi>
of jrt'o^rr.ipliy, to liiivo st'iMi lliu ocoiin on llii*
wlmIith us wt'll a-* on tin' t'li^tcrn nidi* <d tlii>
eonliiM'iil, X > i\* to jjivo II H!iii«liictory roin-

KjptiMii'rtrt to llit> jjcojjriipliic.il pi(*liirt' wliii'ii
0(1 b«><>n t'ornDul in our inind'< : itut llu* rainy
RoaHon had now ro^'uliirly Kt't in, nnd tin* uir
waK liiliHJ svitli lo^r-t and ruin, wliicli It'll no
boauty in any wcenory, and obilructod olwr-
viitioiH. Tlio o!i|i>ct of my iiixlnii'tions had
b<!Pn •Mitiri'iy liillilli'd in hiiviii;» coniK'ctod
our reronnoin^anco willi the Hiirvi'y of Cup-
lain VVilkt>-i ; and altlion<;li it would have
b'l'o atfrt'i'ahlc and HatiHlactory to terminate
hero aUo our riiih'r aKtronouiical ob-*prva-
tiuu'i, I wa>4 not, tor such a reamm, juHtilied
lo makn a delay in waitin<; i'ur favorable
weather.

Near xuii!<et of the lOlh, the boats left the
fort, and eiicainpod after making only a few
iniloM. ( >ur Hotilla conHiHted of a Mackinaw
Imrge and three canoes — one of them that in
which wo had descended the river ; and a
party in all of twenty men. Due of the emi-
grants, Mr. Unmet, of Missouri, who had
left his family and property at the Dalles,
availed himself of the opportunity afforded
by the return id' our boats to brinj; them
down to Vancouver. This gentleman, as
well as the Messrs, Applcjjate, and others of
the emigrants whom I saw, possessed intelli-
gence and character, with the monil and in-
tellectual stamina, a.s well as the enterprise,
which give solidity and respectability to the
foundation of colonies,

November II. — The morning was rainy
and misty. We did not move with the prac-
tised celerity of my own camp; and it was
near 9 o'clock when our motley crew had
finished their breakfast and were ready to
start. Onro afloat, however, tiiey worked
steadily and well, and we advanced at a good
rate up the river ; and in the afternoon a
breeze sprung up, whic;)) enabled us to add a
sail to the oars. At evening we encamped
on a warm-looking beach, on the right bank,
at the foot of the high river hill, immediately

a» ill' lowr I'lid of <'.»|>« Horn. On lh'» op.
p i<ii>* N'lore I* M.iiJ to li* a xin^fular liolo m
ilii> in Miniain, Iroui wliich MieJnliuM Ix'-
lii've com"< tint wind pr'Nlifiii;; th">««' gil<'<
It \4 called till' D-vil'M hole ; and the Indian*,
I wa* lolil, have beiMi re«olving to M«>nd down
ono of their hIivim to explore the refion In-,
low. Al dirk, ill" wiml shifted into \u
stormy (piarler, gradually increasing lo :i
gale from the nouiIiwi'dI ; and lli<< nky lx<-
coiniiig clear, I oli'aiiied a giMid ot>si*rviition
of III) tMii>>rsioii of the first Naltdlile ; tli>* r<>-
Niitt of which, iM'iiig an absoliile obstTvatimi,
I have a<lopfed lor llie longitude ol ili.> placi*.
,Vi)i.7/i/" /• I'J. — Till' wind during tli" iiiltIi'
had Increased to so tnurfi violence, that tin
broad river this morning was angry and
white ; the waves breaking with consideni-
ble force against tins rocky wall of the capi'.
Our old Iroquois pilot was unwilling to ri<l<
the lioath around llie point, and I was not dis-
posed to hazard the dtores of our voyage lor
the delay of a day. Further observations
were obtained during the dav. giving for tliu
latitude of the place l.'t^ SA' 0!»" ; and lln-
longitnde, obtained from the satellite, is IJ'J

\orfmher 13. — VVe had a day of rlisiigreea-
ble and cold rain ; and, late in the afternooti,
began to approach the rapids of the cascades.
There is here a high timbered island on the
left shore, liolow which, in descending, I IihI
remarked in a bliilVon the river the e.vtremi-
ties of trunks of trees appearing to be ini-
tjedded in tin ck. Landing here this afier-
noon, I found in the lower part of the e-*-
carpment a stratum of coal and forest tn'i'-,
imbedded between strata of altered day
containing the remains of vegetalili's. tli'
leaves of which indicate that the nlanis wi re
dicotyledonous. Among these, tiie pifeins ef
some of the ferns are not mineralized. I>ut
merely charred, retaining still their vegelaM"
structure and substance ; and in this coinii-
tion a portion also of the trees remain. Tlie
indurated appearance and cornpactn(^ss of iIh'
strata, as well, perhaps, as the miiieriiizi'il
condition of the coal, are probably due ii
igneous action. Some portions ol thi* coil
precisely resemble in aspect the canal coi!
of England, and, with the acconipanyiiur
fossils, have been referred to the tertiary for-
mation.

These strata appear to rest upon a m^•i!>
of agglomerated rock, being but a few !eot
above the water of the river ; nnd over tlieiu
is the escarpment of perhaps eighty feet,
rising gradually in the rear towards the
mountains. The wet and cold evening. aiiJ
near approach of night, prevented mn from
making any other than a very slight examin-
ation.

The current was now very swift, and we
were obliged to cordclle the boat along tho

lM-» 1

(•.\I»T. KUKMmNT'.S NAUKATIVK.

lit

Ifit »liur'<, wlH*r(* llio \y\nk wd* ri»vi>r<<i| with

\.ir\l>' iiii*'«'t roi'kx. \ii;lit iiscrtiMtk um
lit til" ii|i|M'r cikI til llii> i^luiiit, « nhort ilin*
litiH'i' Inmiivv tlio (''i>«i'fi)K'M, nixl w» hiilti'il on
ill)' 'iiN'ii iHHiit III till' m>':iiiiiiii<>. till' liuMrr
iiuMK-', iinMli'il iil(ii;fi>tlii>r ity lirli<iii«. Iiml
|i«<«»«'(l iiliiM'l, iniil Men* Diit lit 4iultl. Willi
lln'ii w.i< Hk' li).l;;i', wlii.li w'K tin* mily
•lii'ltiT wi' liiul. witli iiM^t III till' Im-iIi|iii^ iiml
|in>vini<iii4. W'l' kIihiiIi'iI, uii'I lirctl ifiiiiN ;
iMit u'll tit no piir|i>i'«*, iM it W't4 iiii|)'ttiltlt'
: if till-Ill to lii'iir uImim* tin* rmir <il tlic rivor ;
iiiil \\t' r'lnuiiH-ii nil iti;rlit witli'inl Klii'ltcr,
■ III' mm piMiriii^ ilovvii nil tin' tiiiti'. 'I'lu'
iilil vovu^i'iirH (lit! not aiijH'ur In iiiiinl it
miicli, liiit ciivcroii tlit'lii'o'lvt'M up iim Mi'II nn
till') L'Kiilil, iiiiij liiy (iiKvii (III till* xtml In'iicIi,
\*lii'n' tlii'v ri'iiiaiiH'il '|iiiol iiiilil iiii)riiiii(|.
Th' rl'^Ht of iH hpoht II riitlHT iiiim'riililt'
iii^lit ; mill, to uilil to our (liitrouilort, tlic in-
t'OM«ui)t riiii )'\liii);uiHlM'd iMir Droit; iiiiil vv'i<
won' jflail wlifii at IhhI ilayli({lit iippi'uri'il,
nil we ii^^.iiii i'iiil>ark<*il.
CrosNiiiK to lilt' riylit liaiik, wi» rortlillnl

iht' llitlt ll!cll|;r till* f«luir<>, lIltTl' k'illU IIO

l'iii;;i'r iiiiy iioi' lor IIk* pinlilli'rt, utiil put iiitn
a lillli- li.iy Ik'Idw tlii' iippor rii(titln. Ilfrc
wo fiMiinl till' IihI;/!' pill Iii'iI, ttiiii iiliiiiit twen-
ty Iiiiliiii'* rtittjiiir iiroiiiiii II blii/.iii^ liri' wi'li-
III, iiiikiii;; II liixiirioiiM brLMkl'iiHt witli huN
ni'Hi. bri'^i, biitlor, Hii}rnr, itilU'i', iiiul ollior
jiruvi-inii-t. Ill tilt! I'ort'Hl, on tlie I'llyc of iIk*
lii;:li liluirovorlookinj,' llio river, in an Iiiiliitn
trnivo yiiril, coiiHintlinr nf u follfction of
UiiiiIh, ill ciicli of wliicli wow tlio HCiitlt'rt'il
liuiii'M of tiiiiny «k('lt'ti>ni». Tbo tombs woro
iiiiiilc of boariN, wliiili were oriiiiim'iiteil witli
iiiuiy ii;;ures of men iind iiniinnlH of tlie
ii;iliir:il nizt' — from llieir uppeariuiro, romtti-
lutini; tlu» iirinoriiil lievifi* by wliicli, aiiionpr
Imliaii-i. tbo cliit'frt are ii>iially known.

i'lic massort of rock ili^tpliiyt'ij aloiijj tlie
fhirt's of llio ravine in llio iioijjliliurliootl of
llii' ciiMcaiJi's are clearly volcanic prodiicls.
H'tui't'ii tliii* cove, wliich I calleu (Jrave-
y iril b;iy, and anotlier Hpot of sinootii water
lib ivt', on tlie rijjbt, calleil Ludern bay, sliel-
!• ri'd by a jiiUinjf point of liiijre rocky inaHses
lit liic loot of the cascades, the nlioro along
the iiiti'rvenin;jr rapids is liiietl with preci-
[lices (if distinct strata of red and variously
colored lavas, in inclineil jwisitions.

'I'lie iiiafses of rock forming tbo point at
Iii'lers buy eon.iist of a poroiia trap, or
[)i-alt — ii volcanic product of a modern
pfriod. Tlie rocks belong to agglonr.erated
misses, which form the immediate ground of
tiio ciseiides, find have been already inen-
lii'iieil as constituting a bed of cemented con-
jrloiiieriite rocks appearinjj at various places
■tliuiif the river. Ilere they are scattered
iJon^f llie shores, and tbroiijjh the bed of the
river, wearing the ciiaracter of convulsion,

wliii'li fiiruM lhi> impri'aiitvi* nod proininont
li'iiliiri' ol ilie ri\t'r nl tin* ptiie.

NVIn'rt'vt'r w«» imiim* in roiiiiiti w ith l|,i«
rock4 of tlii'Mt inouiitnin<, \m' Inuini thnn
Viitc!Miic, uliii b i" prtibitbly iIh' rb.triiiti'r ol
the ntiitri' ; uiul ui iln" limc, rAonf tln'irrent
-iiowy foiiii., .MiMiiii Ue^iiiir iiihI St. ||i<|.
out, were in iittioii, ((ii tbe -j.Ul nl tlic pre-
feilm;r 'mim'iiiIji r. St. Ilfleiu liaij fi'utlcrcti
ilM iiKlte", like a li^lll lill III Kiiii'.v, o\('r Ilie
D.illet of the Colli iiliiii, AD milt't ilMlnnt.
.\ »{N'iiiiii'ii of tiii'M' a»lii'< WHS yiM'ti to in«'
by Mr. Krt'Mer, one of the ib'r;;smfn at the
ifalle..

The lolly raiiitt' of the < 'uM-iitli' iiioiiiilninM
forms a diittiiii't lM)iinilary belweeii the oppo.
I'll)' •■liiiiiiteH of the reuiontiilotiir itit western
ami eastern biisiiH. On the wi-t, they pre
M'lit a barrier to tbi' iIoihIs of In^ itiid rain
which roll up imm the I'acilic o< i-aii and
lieut a^ain-t their ni^^td fides, loriiiiii^r thi*
rainy neaitoii of the winter in the country
aloii^ the I'liast. Into the briiiliter »>kii'H of
the ri'^'ioii iiliiiii; lliijr eiislerii Iihm', tliin
rainy winter in viT peiielrates ; niitl at the
Dalles of the ( 'o|iimi>i.'i the raiiiv reason ih
unknown, tht> brief winter bi'iii;; limiled to a
periiMl tif alN)tit two inonths, iliiriii(( whieh
the eiirtii is covered with the s|ij;lii .«iii)WHiif
a climate remarkably mild fur so lii;.'li a lati-
liiile. The Cancatle raiijie lias an iivern^e
ilixtance of about 11)0 miles linm the hoa
coiixt. it e.xtenils far both iinrili and houth
of the Columbia, and is iiidicatetl to tbe dis-
tant observer, both in ciuirse and position, by
the lofty volcanic peaks which rise out of it,
ami which are visible to an inini'-'iise dis-
tance.

Diirinj,' several days of constant rain, it
kejif our whole force laboriously employed
in ijettiii},' our bar^e and canoes to the upper
eml of the cascades. The portajxe ground
was occupied by enii;;raiit families; their
thin and insullicienl cl(^tllill;,^ bare-headed
and bare-footed cliililren, attestinjr tbe length
of their journey, and showing that they had,
in many instances, set t)iil without a due
preparation of what was iiulispensable.

A gentleman named I.uilers, a botanist
from tbe city of Hamburg, arrived at the bay
I have calletl by his name while wo were
occupi >d in bringing up the boats. I was
delightei. to meet at such a place a man of
kintJre.l pursuits; but we had only the plea-
sure of a brief conversation, us bis canoe,
under the guidance of two Indians, wa»
about to run the rapids ; and [ could not en-
joy the satisfaction of regaling him with a
breakfa.sf, which, alter his recent journey,
would have been an extraordinary luxury.
All of his few instruments and bagtrage were
in the canoe, and he hurried around by land
to meet it at the Grave-yard bay ; but he

'M r

•I

"* ''1

/ii

tit

CAI'T FKKMOSTH NAIIKATIVK.

[\H4^

WM Mtrrflly o«it of night, wlirii, by lh<*r«n*-
leMnrnn III thi* Iniimn*, lhi> htMl wm« ilniwii
into (hi* miilat III iho rnpiiln. ami tfUnrt'il
down thi< riM*r, lioltoiii up, wiCh llii' Io«n of
evi«rylhiri(; it coiitiiiriiMl In tlii> tmliiral
ennrorii I filf (or lii« mi"fortiin«', I gn\i' Jo
tho litllo rove llii< imiiu' ol I.U<li'r>« Imv.

\i>i>m/hr I A — \W i-oiiliiMii>il tiMlny niir
Work lit ilio |)ortn|f(*.

Alciiit iiiMiii, till' two ImrROM of tlirrxprrMH
troin Moiilri'iil iirrivi><l iit tlii> i.|i|»cr |Nirtai(«>
Iniiiliiii;, which, for hir(;i> Ikxiipi, i« on thr
riijlit hunk of till" riviT. Thi'y wn' n tlni*-
lookin^ iTcw, itiiil niiionif thnn I ri'tniirki'd
fi fr<»Nh-liH»kinj( wmnnn mul hrr ilmiKhtor,
oini)friintM from ('unniht. It wit^ HittiMfnctory
to tn'i' thi' orilt-r mill tpivil with which tht'xi'
»»xp<'rii'ncc(l wfiliTini'n I'lliTtnl th»» |Mirtitiji»,
And phmaimI thrir ImwUm o\i*r tin* ru'^ciiih'ii.
Thi'y hnil lurivi'il at n<Hin, Hnil in the rvi'ning
tln>y i'\|H'cti'<l to rt'iich Vnncoiivor. 'rhcui'
hntpiiiii* carry Iho cxpronw of th«* lliidMon
lliiy <'ninpi«iiy to tlio hi|;liPf>l nuvi^nhli* |)oint
of tho north fork of thf ('oliiiiihin, whfnro
it irt C!irrtcil hy nn ovurliinil pitrty to liiki'
WiHi|M»r, wlioro it in diviilotl — [xirt (foin^ to
Montronl, and part to lliidNon Hay. Thim
a ro{;ular communication iM kopt up l)rlwppn
tiirc*' vnry n'tnoto |)<>inti«.

Till* ('anadian cmi|;nintii woro niucli rha-
(frini'd at tlin change of climate, and in-
I'ormod me that, only a few niileii aiNive, they
liuil jell K country of hriglit hlue nky and a
i«hiiiin<; nun. The next mornini; the »p|M»r
|)iirt!4 of the mountains which directly over-
look the caKcados were white with the frenh-
ly fallen hiidw, while it continued tu rain
steadily lielow.

Late in the afternoon wo finiflhed the port-
afje, and, emharkint; n^fain, moved a little
dintance up the ri(;;ht hank, in order to clear
the nmaller rapidH of the caxcadcH, and have
a smooth river for the next morning. Though
wo made hut a few inileH, the weather im-
proved immediately ; and though the rainy
country and tho cloudy mountains won' close
behind, before uh was the bright Hky ; i*o dis-
tinctly is climate here marked by a moun-
tain boundary.

Novrmher 17. — We had to-day an oppor-
tunity to complete tho sketch of that por-
tion of the river down which we had come
by night.

Many places occur along tho river, where
the stumps, or rather portions of the trunks
of pine trees, are standing along the shore,
anu in tho water, where they may bo seen
at a considerable depth below the surface,
in the beautifully clear water. These col-
lections of dead trees are called on the Co-
lumbia the submnrffed forest, and are sup-
posed to have been created by the effects of
some convulsion which formed the cascades,
and which, by damming up tho river, placed

lhr««< irrr* undi-r watrr aiul d*»tr«)yr«l thfin
Hut I vttiiiHn* to preaiimi* that the raacmlc.
are older Ihitn the irt^n ; an<l a* lheiM> ml,
mergrd fiirf"!* iwcur at flvi» or "ix pliur.
along the river, I had an o|i|Mirtunity to tu
ti«ly inynelf thn' thi-y have Intu formetl Ir^
immen<e land xlideit from the mountain<.
which here cliwely "hut in the river, nixl
which brought down with them into tin
river the piiii'N of thr mountain At utm
place, on tlie ri|{ht JHink, I reiiiarked n piur,
wliere a |Mirlion of one of lhei<e Hliih«N niTin-
eil to have pliinted itself, with all the iMr
green foliage, and the \eg<>tation of tin
neighlHirinir hill, directly aniidxt the falliti);
and yellow leaven of the river Ireeii. It ih-.
ciirred to me that this would have Intii n
iMtaiitifiil illiiHlrHtion to the eye of a ImtnniKl

Following the courne of a slide, whirh
was very plainly marked along the 'umin.
tain, I found that in the interior pit t thr>
trees were in their usual erect |Nwition ; lint
at the extremity of the slide they were rmk-
ed alxtiit, and thrown into a confusion of in-
clinalions.

About 4 o'clock in the afterno«in we [mw-
ed a sandy bar in the river, whence we had
an unexfiected view of Mount llou<l, lM>arin;;
directly south by compass.

Durmg the day wo used oar and sail, ami
at night had again a delightful campiii;;
ground, and a dry pbx^o to sleep upon.

Ninftnlter |H. — The day agam was plen-
ant and bright. At lUo cluck we pas^ted a
rock island, on the right shore of tlie river,
which tho Indians use as burial ground ; iiml
halting for a short time, about an hour after-
wards, at the village of our Indian friend^*,
early in the aflcrnocm wo arrived again iit
the Dt. lies.

Carson htid removed the camp up the riviT
a little nearer to the hills, wlicro tho animiiN
had better grass. We found everythitig in
good order, and arrived just in time to par-
take of an excellent r.wst of California lieef.
My friend, Mr. (iilpin, had arrived in uil-
vance of the partv. His object in visitini;
this country had bet>n to obtain correct in-
formation of the Walahmetto settlements ;
and ho had reached thin point in his journey
highly pleased with the country over which
he haa travelleu, and with invigornti'i
health. On the following day he continiiid
his journey, in our returning bouts, to ^'an-
couver.

The camp was now occupied in makin.'
the necessary preparations forour homewnni
journey, which, though homeward, contcni-
plated a new route, and a great circuit lo
the south and southeast, andthe exploration
of the Great Basin between the Rocky moiiii-
tains and the Sierra Netadit. Three principal
objects were indicated, by rc|X)rl or by n»Bp#,
as b«ing on this route ; the character or ev-

|4tJ )

CAIT. KKKMnSTH NAKUATIVK.

Ill

,»lrne» n( which t wi«hi>«l in Mn<rt«iii, nrxl
«liii*h I iiMiim(*il H^i UiHhiiarka, or kkihiiir
|MiinU, on Iho |»r«>)««rtwl hiii* n( rrturn. Tho
rtmt of lhi«««> |M)ititii wan lh«> TlnmnfK Iftkr,
Ml th<> UhU-Uiitl ItotwfiMi (ho hrnil of K»ll
n\i-r, wliirh Cdini*)) to tin* ('dIiiiiiImh, niwl (ho
S«< rmmnidt, which iriN>ii (o (ho hny of Nnn
rntncuro ; Btiil Iroin whirh Ink*' a rivrr nt
till- Mriio imtiii* iimkoii Id* wny wi'Himtnily
.lin-rt (i> (hp iH*)>nn. Thl* hiko miil river Mv
ollcii tkIUmI Kliinxii, hii( | hnvi* rh()««>ii (o
wnii* ilM n«mo arronhni; (o (hi* liuliiiti |iri>-
iiiiiiria(ii)n, Th(> iNwidiin nl' (hi* luki*, on
till* lino of inlKiitl ('onimiiiii<'K(ioii lN>(wi>i>n
Ori't^oii Hnd ('Alifornia; i(i |)ri)xiini(y (o (he
il<'iniri-K(ion UiiiiKlnry of lii(i(uil«« VJP', itn
iiiipiilod iloul)lp('hnrii(t<>ruf Ink)', or tnomlow,
ir<iir(hnj( (o (ho poiiMon of (ho yonr ; nnil (he
liixiilo anil wnHiko rhitni(-()T a((rihu(o(l (o
tlio ImhaiiM alioti( i( — all intido ii a ilofimlilo
ol>l>>ct (o vinit anil oxnniino. Fn)iii (hin lako
Hir roiirap wan in(on(loil (o Ito alxint Hoiith-
.•li't, (o a rojMirdMJ laku rnllpil Mary'd, a(
wMMO ila^H' joiiriiov ill (ho (iron( Haxin ; and
tlii'iii'o.Htill on m)ii(hoiiH(, (o (ho repiiti'ii /^/(■•
iiiiii nturn rivor, whirli hnH hnil a plurr in
M) iiiAiiy inapM, ami coiiiUoii'incoil (ho lirliof
of (lie oxiNd'urcof a >;roa( rivor (lowinjj from
ilif llorky moiin(ainN (o (ho buy nf San
FniiciKco. Prom (he lliionavontiira (ho
nt» |N>iiit wan iiHoiuIci (o l>o in (ha( MO('(ioii
i>r tho Kocky nioiindtiiiH which inrlnilp^ (ho
Iii'ikU of ArkatiMnrt rivor, and of (he opjymi(o
wiiitTn of (ho ('aliforninn piilf; and (ncncc
ijown tlio ArkaiiKaM (o Hcn('H furt, and home.
Thn wan our projected line of return — a
<;n-M part of itahHoliitcly new (o (^ooKraphi-
rnl, lio(anical, and ^oolofi^ical iicionce — and
the Hiilijoct of ropordi in relation to lakew,
rivor*, donerd*, and Kavaj^ea hanlly ahovo (he
ciMMliiion of more wild animaln, which in-
lliiiH'il dosiro d» know what thiH (rrra in-
■"■^nita really contained.

It wnH a Horions on(erpriRO, nt the coin-
ni-nrpinoiit of winter, to undertake tho tra-
vi'r»o of Miich a re^rion, and with a party
C'inxistin|r only of twenty-live pcmonH, and
liii'v of muny nations — American, French,
(ii'rin;in, Canadian. Indian, and colored —
niiil niiwt of them young, Heveral boinp nn-
il r iwenty-ono yearHof ape. All knew that
ii ^^trallpo country was to be e,xplored, and
<l:in>.,erH and liardHhipn to l)e encountered ;
Imt no oit.e blenched at tho prospect. On
I lit' contrary, courage ami conH»lence anl-
mali'd (he whole narty. Cheerfulnesc, rea-
ilim-r's, Kubordination, prompt obedience, cha-
racterized all ; nor aid any extremity of
|ierii and privation, to which we were after-
wanlrt exiMmed, ever belie, or derogate from,
itie line spirit of this brave and generous
commencement. The conrse of the narra-
tive will show at what point, and for what
reasons, we were prevented from the com-

plo(o oxoriiiion of ih»« plan, aflor having
niadi* ronnidorahlo pni|;n'«« iiiMin it, and how
wo \^^^rv lorcod by donfft pUiim and mouit-
tain ranifoii, aiul di*i'p (iiowa, far (o the
oniiih, and near to (ho l*ari(lr oronn, atui
alonif tlio Moxtorii Irnno of tho Sierra Nova-
da ; Mhoro, indt'Ofl, a now and Nni|ilo tiold o(
exploration o|N'iiod itvelf hoforo int. For
(ho proMon(, wo inii"( follow (hit imrrndvp,
which will llmt load u* Koiith aloii^; the val-
ley of Fall rivor, and (ho oa>i(orn bane ol thr
('aHi-ado ran((o, (o (be 'I'iNinalh lako, trom
which, or itN ninrgin, throo river« go in (hro<<
dirocdoim— one weKt, di (bo ocean ; anolhrr
nor(b, (o (he Culuinbia ; the third Miuth, tu
California.

For (be kiipport of the party, I bad pro-
vided lit V.'ineoiivor i\ Niipply of provihionn
for not lenit than three inonlhn, con«iM(in^
tirincipnlly of (loiir, peuM, iind (allow — tho
latter being ii^ed in cooking , and, in addi-
tion (r) tbiM, I b:id purcbaMid at the uiiamon
Miine ralifoi'iiia eiidle, which were to >m;
drivrii on the hoof. We hud lUI mulei« and
horHOM — part of the latter prncnred (roiit tiie
IndiaiiH about tli)> iiiiknioii , and tor tbi* miin-
(enaiice of which, our reliance wait upon
(be gr.tna which we iihoulil find, uiid the auA
poroiiH wood, winch wu« (o bo Hulmtitutrd
when there witt iionr.

Mr. Kil7.|iatriek, with Mr. Talbot and the
remainder of "be party, arrived on the -il»l ;
.ind the eaiiip was now citmely enK.'%Kt;<l ia
the lidxir of preparation. Mr. i'tirkiua buc-
ceeded in obtaining aa a guide to the Tla-
math lako two InduinH— one of whom had
boon there, mid boro the iiiarki of hoveral
wounda ho bad received from hoiiio of the
Indiana in the neigbborhood ; and (be uthoi
went along for company. In order to ena-
ble us to obtain lior.«ie.'<, be diMpatebed mes-
sengers to the various Indian villagCH in the
neighborhood, informing tbeiii that wo were
desiroua to purchase, and u|>pointing u day
for tliein to bring thorn in.

We made, in the moan time, several
excursions in the vicinity. Mr. I'crkiiw
walked with Mr. I'rouHs and my.Htlf to the
heigbtH, about nine miles distant, on the op-
posite side of ihf river, whence, in fine
weather, an oxteu-iivc view may be had over
the mountains, including seven great peaks
of the (Cascade range; Imt clouds, on ibi:*
occasion, destroyed the anticipated p!ea.suie.
and we obtained bearings only to three iliat
were visible : Mount Hegnier, St. llelenw,
and Mount Hiiod. ()n (be heinbts, about
one mile south of (be mission, a very fine
view may he had of Mount Hood and St.
Helens. In order to determine their posi-
tion with as much accuracy as possible, tho
angular distances of the peaks were moaaur-
ed with tho sextant, at different fixed point*
from which they could be seen.

.fill

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118

CAl'T. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1843

The IndiniiH lirouRht in tlicir horses at
Iho appdiiited time, and wo sucicpcded in
obtaining' a ntinihcr m «'Xi'h:in)?o lor (nxids ;
but tliey were rclalivr-ly much hi;jher hero,
where pooils iiio [ilfity iuul ;if moderate
prices, than wc h.td Ioimk! ihein in tho more
eastern part of our voyiiire. Several ot'lhn
Indians iminired very anxiously to know if
we had any dollars ; and the hordes wo

Froc;red were much fewer in number than
had desired, and of thin, inferior quality ;
the oldest and [loorest bein^j those th;it
were sold to ns. These horses, as ever in
our journey you will have occasion to re-
mark, are valuable for hardihood and great
endurance.

November 21. — At this place one of the
men was discharpcd ; and at the request of
Mr. Perkins, a Chinook Indi;m. a lad of
nineteen, who was extrenicly desirous to
" see the whites," and make some acquaint-
ance with our institutions, was received into
ihc party, under iny special charge, with
the understanding that I would again re-
turn him to his friends. He had lived for
some lime in the househcdd of Mr. Perkins,
and spoke a few words of the English lan-
guage.

November 25. — We were all up early, in
the excitement of turning towards home.
The stars were brilliant, and the morning
cold — the thermometer at daylight 260.

Our preparations had been fi ly com-
pleted, and to-day we commenced our jour-
ney. The little wagon which had hitherto
"arried the instruments I judged it necessary
to abandon ; and il was accordingly pre-
sented to the mission. In all our long trav-
elling, it had never been overturned or in-
jured by any accident of the road ; and the
only things broken were the glass lamps, and
one of the front panels, which had been
kicked out by an unruly Indian horse. The
howitzer was the only wheeled carriage now
remaining. We started about noon, when
the weather had become disagreeably cold,
with flurries of snow. Our friend Mr. Per-
kins, whose kindn jss had been active and ef-
ficient during our stay, accompanied us sev-
eral miles on our road ; when he bade us
farewell, and consigned us to the cire of
our guides. Ascending to the uplands be-
yond the southern fork of the Ttnancns
creek, we found the snow lying on the
ground in frequent patches, although the
pasture appeared good, and the new short
grftss was fresh and green. We travelled
over high, hilly land, and encamped on a
little branch of Tinanens creek, where there
were good grass and timber. The southern
bank was covered with snow, which was
scattered over itie ooitom , and the little
creek, its borders lined with ice, had a chilly
and wintry look. A number of Indians had

accompanied us so far on our road, and re-
mained with us during the night. Two bad.
looking fellows, who were detected in .sti'.ij.
ing, were tied and laid before the fire, iiii!
gu \rd mounted over them during the niylii
The night was cold, and partially clear.

Norrinber 20. — The morning was clniiJv
and misty, and but a few stars visible, Dur
in^ the night \rater froze in the tents, an;
al .^unrise the thermometer was at 20-\ J.uli
fam|) at 10 o'(dock, the roail leading alonr'
tributaries of tins 'I'inanens, and being, .sd
far, very good. \N e turned to the right ai
the fork of the trail, ascending by a h\vv\.
ascent along a (spur to the dividing grouinN
between th.is stream and the waters of i'.ii;
river. The creeks we had passed were
timbered principally with oak and otiier il(
ciduous trees. Snow lies everywhere hiTi
on the ground, and we iiad a slight fall dtr
ing the morning ; but towards noon the gray
sky yielded to a bright sun. This morning
we had a grand view of St. Helens ant
Regnier : the latter appeared of a conical
form, and very lofty, leading the eye far up
into the sky. The line of the timbert.!
country is very distinctly marked here, the
bare hills making with it a remarkable con-
trast. The summit of the ridge commanded
a line view of the Taih |)niirie, and lliu
stream ruiming through i*, uiiich is a trihii-
tary to the Fall river, the chasm of wiiich
is visible to the right. A sleep descent of
a mountain hill brought us down into tli«
valley, and we encamped on the stream ■'
ter dark, guided by the light of tires, winch
some naked Indians belonging to a villagu
on the opposite side were kindling for us on
the bank. This is a large branch of the
Fall river. There was a broad band ol
thick ice some fifteen feet wide on either
bank, and the river current is swift ami
bold. Ths night was cold and clear, and
we made our astronomical observation tliit
evening with the thermometer at 20*^.

In anticipation of coming hardship, and
to spare our horses, there was much walk-
ing done to-day ; and Mr. Fitzpatrick and
myself made the day's journey on loot
Somewhere near the mouth of this stream
are the falls from which the river takes its
name.

November 27. — A fine "icw of Moiini
Hood this morning ; a rose-colored mass of
snow, bearing S. 85^ W. by compass. The
sky is clear, and the air cold ; the thermom-
eter 2^.5 below zero; the trees and bushes
glittering white, and the rapid stream filleil
with floating ice.

Stiletsi and ihc White Crane, two Indian
chiefs who had accompanied us thus far,
took their leave, and we resumed our jour-
ney at 10 o'clock. We ascended by a steep
hill from the river bottom, which is sandj,

1H43.J

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAUUATIVE.

119

to a volcanic plain, around which lofty hills
sweep in a regular furni. It is cut up by
piillit's of hasidtic rock, escarpments of
which appear everywhere in iho hills.
Thin plain is called the Taih |)rairie, and is
upriukied with siune scattered pines. Tiie
rountry is now far more interesting to a
iraveiler than the route along the Snake
iiiid (,'oluniljia rivers. To our right we had
always the mountains, from tlie midst of
whose dark pine forests the isolated snowy
peaks were looking out like giants. They
.<crved us for grand beacons to show the
rale at which we advanced in our journey.
Mount Hood was already becoming an old
aiMiiiaintance, and, when we ascended the
jirairie, we obtained a bearing to Mount Jcf-
tbrson, S. 23^ \V. The Indian superstition
lias peopled these lofty peaks v;itli evil spir-
its, and tiiey have never yet known the
iread of a human foot. Sternly drawn
against the sky, they look so high and steep,
BO snowy and rocky, that it would appear
almost impossible to climb them ; but still a
trial would have its attractions for the ad-
venturous traveller. A small trail takes off
through the prairie, towards a low point in
the range, and perhaps there is here a pass
into the Walahmette vnlley. Crossing the
plain, wo descended by a rocky hill into the
bed of a tributary of Fail river, and made
iui early encampment. The water was in
holes, and frozen over, and we were obliged
to cut through the ice ibr the animals to
drink. An ox, which was rather trou-
blesome to drive, was killed here for
food.

The evening was fine, the sky being very
clear, and I obtained an immersion of the
third satellite, with a good observation of an
emersion of the first ; the latter of which
1,'ives Ibr the longitude, 121° 02' 43" ; the
latitude, by observation, being 45° 06' 45".
The night was cold — the thermometer dur-
ing 'lie ol)servations standing at 9°.

Noimbcr 28. — The sky was clear in the
nionung, but suddenly clouded over, and at
KiMuise began to s..ovv, with the thermome-
tor at IS'-!.

We traversed a broken high country,
partly timbered with pine, and about noon
crossi^d a mountainous ridge, in which, from
the rock occasionally displayed, the forma-
tion consists of compact lava. Frequent
tracks of elk were visible in the snow. On
our right, in the afternoon, a high plain,
partially covered with pine, extended about
ten miles, to the foot of the Cascade moun-
tains.

At evening we encamped in a basin nar-
rowly surrounded by rocky hills, after a
day's journey of 21 miles. The surround-
i/ig rocks are either volcanic products, or
highly altered by volcanic action, consisting

of (piartz and reddish-colored silicinua
masses.

Norcinbrr 29. — We emergrd from the
basin, by a narrow pu- , upon a considerable
branch of Fall river, running to the east
ward through a narrow valley. The trail,
descending this stream, brought us to a lo
cality of hot springs, which were cm either
bank. Those on the left, wiiich were
formed into deep haiidstinn' basins, would
have been delightful baths, if the outer air
had not been so keen, the tl."r.iiometer in
tlie.se being at 89 \ Tiiere were otiiers, on
the opposite side, at the foot of an escarp-
ment, ill whi' /i the temperature of the water
was 13 1\ These waters deposited around
the sprini.'' a brecc'ated mass of (juartz and
feld.spp;, much of it of a reddish color.

W J cros.sed the stream here, and ascend-
ed ar ain to a high plain, from an elevated
point of which we obtained a view of six
of the great peaks — Mount .Tefferson, follow-
ed to the southward by two others of tho
same class; and succeeding, at a still great-
er distance to the southward, were three
otiier lower peaks, clustering together in a
branch ridge. These, like tho great peaks,
were snowy masses, secondary only to
them ; and, from the best examination our
time permitted, we are inclined to believe
that the range to which they belong is a
branch from the great chain which here
bears to the westward. The trail during
the remainder of the day followed near to
the large stream on the left, which was con-
tinuously walled in between high rocky
banks. We halted for the night on a little
by-stream.

November 30. — Our journey tc-Jay was
short. Passing over a liigh plain, on which
were scattered cedars, with frequent beds
of volcanic rock iu fragments inters;-ersed
among the grassy grounds, we arrived sud-
denly on the verge of the steep and rocky
descent to the valley of the stream we had
been following, and which here ran directly
across our path, emerging from the moun-
tains on the right. You will remark that
the country s abundantly watered w ilb large
streams, which pour down froni the neigh-
boring range.

Tliese streams are characterized by the
narrow and chasm-like valleys in which
they run, generally sunk a thousand feet be-
low the plain. At the verge of this plain,
they frequently commence in vertical preci-
pices of basaltic rock, and which leave only
casual places at which they can be entered
by horses. The road across the country,
vvhich would otherwise be very good, is
rendered impracticable for wagons by these
streams. There is another trail among the
mountains, usually followed in the summer,
which the snows now compelled us to avoid ;

:*!

•■•rf

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''•Hi

IflO

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

1813.

and I have roa.Hon to believe tliat lliis, pass-
ing nearer the licads of these streams,
would afford a much better road.

At such places, the pun carriage was un-
limbered, and separately dencended by hand.
Continuing a low miles up the left bank of
the river, wo encamped early in an open
bottom among the piuoa, a»<l)ort distance be-
low a lodge of Indians. Here, along the
river the bluffs present escarpments seven
or eight hundred feet in height, containing
strata of a very fine porcelain clay, overlaid,
at the height of about live hundred feet, by
a massive stratum of compact basalt one
hundred feet in thickness, which again is
auccecded above by other strata of volcanic
rocks. The clay strata are variously color-
ed, some of them very nearly as white as
chalk, and very fine grained. Specimens
brought tVem these have been subjected to
microscopical examination by Professor
Bailey, of West Point, and are (*onsidered by
him to constitute one of the most remarkable
deposites of fluviatile infusoria on record.
While they abound in genera and species
which are common in fresh water, but which
rarely thrive where the water is even brack-
ish, not one decidedly marine form is to be
found among them ; and their fresh-water
origin is therefore beyond a doubt. It is
equally certain that they lived and died at
the situation where they were found, as they
could scarcely have been transported by
running waters without an admixture of
sandy particles ; from which, however, they
are remarkably free. Fossil infusoria of'a
fresh-water origin had been previously de-
tected by Mr. Bailey in specimens brought
by Mr. James D. Dana from the tertiary
formation of Oregon. Most of the species
in those specimens differed so nmch from
those now living and known, that he was led
to infer that they might belong to extinct
species, and considered them also as afford-
ing proof of an alternation, in the formation
from which they were obtained, of fresh
and salt water deposites, which, common
enough in Europe, had not hitherto been
noticed in the United States. Coming evi-
dently from a locality entirely different, our
specimens show very few species in com-
mon with those brought by Mr. Dana, but
bear a much closer resemblance to those in-
habiting the northeastern States. It is pos-
sible that they are from a more recent de-
posite ; but the presence of a few remark-
able forms which are common to the two
localities renders it more probable that there
is no great difference in their age.

I obtained here a good observation of an
emersion of the second satellite ; but clouds,
which rapidly overspread the sky, prevented
the usual number of observations. Those
which we succeeded in obtaining are, how-

ever, good ; and give for the latitude of the
place no 35' 23", and for the longitude
from the satellite i8io 10' V!5".

December 1. — A short distance above our
encampment, we crossed this river, whirk
was thickly lined along its banks with inu
In common with all these mountain streamti
the water was very clear, and the current
swill. It was not everywhere fordatilo,
and the water was three or four feetdoepai
our crossing, and perhaps a hundred feet
wide. As was frequently the case at surli
places, one of the mules got his ])ack, con-
sisting of sugar, thoroughly wet, and lunit'il
into molasses. One of the guides infornu'd
me that this was a "salmon water," an>i
pointed out several ingeniously-contrived
places to catch the fish ; among thepines^in
the bottom I saw an immense (me, almut
twelve feet in diameter. A steep asceiu
from the opposite bank delayed us again ;
and as, by the information of our guides,
grass would soon become very scarce, we
encamped on the height of land, in a marshy
place among the pines, where there was an
abundance of grass. We found here a single
Nez Perci' family, who had a very handsome
horse in their drove, which we endeavor-
ed to obtain in exchange for a good cow;
but the man " had two hearts," or, ml her,
he had one and his wife had anotlu.T : she
wanted the cow, but he loved the iiorse tun
much to part with it. These people attach
great value to cattle, with which they are
endeavoring to supply themselves.

December 2. — In the first rays of the sun,
the mountain peaks this morning presented
a beautiful appearance, the snow being en-
tirely covered with a hue of rosy gold. We
travelled to-day over a very stony, elevated
plain, about which were scattered cedar and
pine, and encamped on another large branch
of Fall river. We were gradually ascend-
ing to a more elevate<l region, which would
have been indicated by the rapidly-increas-
ing quantities of snow and ice, had we not
known it by other means. A mule wliieh
was packed with our cooking utensils wan-
dered off among the pines unperceived, and
several men were sent back to search for it.

December 3. — Leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick
with the party, I went ahead with the how-
itzer and a few men, in order to gain time,
as our progress with the gun was necessa-
rily slower. The country continued the
same — very stony, with cedar and pine ;
and we rode on until cark, when we en-
camped on a hillside covered with snow,
which we used to-night for water, as we
were unable to reach any stream.

December 4. — Our animals had taken the
back track, although a great number wen
hobbled ; and we were consequently delayed
until noon. Shortly after we had left this

1843.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

Itl

encampment, the mountain trail from the
Dalles Joined that on which we were travel-
ling:. Afirr paesing for several miles over
;in artciui^ia plain, the trail entered a beauti-
ful i»ine forest, through which wo travelled
fur HRveral hours ; and about 1 oVlock de-
(cended into the valley of another large
oraiicli, on the bottom of which were spaces
of open pines, with occasional meadows of
00(1 grass, in one of which wo encamped.

ic stream is very swift and deep, and about
40 feet wide, and nearly half frozen over.
Among the timber here, arc larches 140 feet
hi|i[li, and over 3 feet in diameter. We had
to-night the rare sight of a lunar rainbow.

December 5. — To-day the country was all
pine forest, and beautiful weather made our
journey delightful. It was too warm at noon
for winter clothes ; and the snow, which lay
everywhere in patches through the forest,
was melting rapidly. After a few hours'
ride, we came upon a fine stream in the
midst of the forest, which proved to be the
principal branch of Fall river. It was oc-
casionally 200 feet -vide — sometimes nar-
rowed to 50 feet ; the waters very clear,
and frequently deep. We ascended along
thu river, which sometimes presented sheets
of foaming cascades ; its banks occasionally
blackened with masses of scoriated rock ;
and found a good encampment on the verge
of an open bottom, which had been an old
camping ground of the Cayuse Indians. A
great number of deer horns were lying about,
indicating game in the neighborhood. The
timber was uniformly largo ; some of the
pines measuring 23 feet in circumference at
the ground, and 12 to 13 feet at six feet
above.

In all our journeying, we had never trav-
elled through a country where the rivers
were so abounding in falls ; and the name
of this stream is singularly characteristic.
At every place where we come in the neigh-
borhood of the river, is heard the roaring of
falls. The rock along the banks of the
ilream, and the ledge over which it falls, is
3 scoriated basalt, with a bright metallic
iiacture. The stream goes over in one
clear pitch, succeeded by a foaming cataract
of several hundred yards. In the little bot-
tom above the falls, a small stream dis-
charges into an entonnoir, and disappears
below.

We had made an early encampment, and
in ihe course of the evening Mr. Fitzpatrick
Join^ us here with the lost mule. Our
lodge poles were nearly worn out, and we
found here a handsome set, leaning against
one of the trees, very white, and cleanly
scraped. Had the owners been here, we
would have purchased them ; but as they
were not, we merely left the old ones in
their place, with a small quantity of tobacco.

December 6. — The morning was frosty
and clear. We continued up the stream on
undulating forest ground, over which there
was scattered much falling limber. We
met hern a village of Nez Perco Indiana,
who appeared to be coming down from the
mountains, rind had with them fine bunds of
horses. With them wero a few Snake In-
dians of ihe root-digging sj)ecie.s. From
the forest wc emerged into an open valley
ten or twelve miles wide, through which the
stream was (lowing tranquilly, upwards ol'
two hundred feet broad, with occasional isl-
ands, and bordered with fine broad bottoms.
Crossing the river, which here i.ssuos from
a great mountain ridge on the right, we con-
tinued up the southern and smaller branch,
over a level country, consisting of fine
meadow land, alternating with pine forests,
and encamped on it early in the evening. A
warm sunshine made the day pleasant.

December 7. — To-day we had good trav-
elling ground ; the trail leading sometimes
over rather sandy soils in the pine forest,
and sometimes over meadow land alonj the
stream. The great beauty of the country
in summer constantly suggested itself to our
imaginations ; and even now wc found it
beautiful, as we rode along these meadows,
from half a mile to two miles wide. The
rich soil and excellent water, surrounded by
noble forests, make a picture that would de-
light the eye of a farmer.

I observed to-night an occultation of n
Geminorum ; which, although at the bright
limb of the moon, appears to give a very
good result, that has been adopted for the
longitude. The occultation, observations
of satellites, and our position deduced from
daily surveys with the compass, agree re-
markably well together, and mutually sup-
port and strengthen each other. The lati-
tude of the camp is 43° 30' 36 " ; and longi-
tude, deduced from the occultation, 121°
33' 60 ".

December 8. — To-day we crossed the last
branch of the Fall river, issuing, like ail the
others we had crossed, in a southwesterly
direction from the mountains. Our direc-
tion was a little east of south, the trail lead-
ing constantly through pine forests. The
soil was generally bare, consisting, in great-
er part, of a yellowish white pumice stone,
producing varieties of magnificent pines,
but not a blade of grass ; and to-night our
horses were obliged to do without food, and
use snow for water. These pines are re-
markable for the red color of the bolls ; and
among them occurs a species, of which the
Indians had informed me when leaving the
Dalles. The unusual size of the cone (16
or 18 inches long) had attracted their atten-
tion ; and they pointed it out to me among
the curiosities of the counti-y. They an

■ *

.-i-Ml

199

CAP'I'. FIlKMnNr.-; NAKKVTIVK.

[IA4J

1813.)

morn reinarkalilo for their hrm- diiimetcr
than thuir hiMjjht, which usually avcrjij;*'!*
only iiliDul I'JO Ci'ci. Tho icatlcls are short
— only lwi» or three iiicliCM Iouk, and five in
a slieaili ; liic hark of a rt-tl color.

Driiinbtr !). — The trail loada always
throui^'h HplcMidid |)inc forests. Crossitig
dividiiij^ ;j!ouiids hy a very fino road, wo
(h'M'cndcd very gently toward.^ the south.
I'he weather was pleasant, and we halted
late. 'I'he soil was very much like that of
yesterday ; and on the surface of a hill,
near our tMicanipnient, were tlixjilaycd heds
of [luniico stone ; hut the soil produced no
t^rrusN, and again the animals fared badly.

Ikviinljcr 10. — The country began to
improve ; and about 1 1 o'clock we reached
a spring of cold water on the edge of a
savannah, or grassy meadow, which our
gu.dus informed us was an arm of the Tla-
mati: lake ; and a few miles further we en-
tered upon :<n extensive meadow, or lake
of gra.ss, surrounded by timbered mountains.
This was the Tlamath lake. It was a pic-
turesque and beautiful spot, and rendered
more attractive to us by the abundant and
e.vcellent grass, which our animals, after
travelling through pine forests, so much
needed ; but the bruad sheet of water which
constituies a lake was not to be seen. Over-
looking it, immediately west, were several
snowy knobs, belonging to what we have
considered a branch of the Cascade range.
A low point covered with pines made out
into ttie lake, which afforded us a good place
for an encampment, and for the security of
our horses, which were guarded in view on
the open meadow. The character of cou-
rage and hostility attributed to the Indians
of this quarter induced more than usual pre-
caution; and, seeing smokes rising from the
middle of the lake (or savannah) and along
the opposite shoies, I directed the howitzer
to be Hred. It was the first time our guides
had seen it discharged ; and the bursting of
the shell at a distance, which was some-
thing like the second fire of the gun, amazed
and bewildered them with delight. It in-
spired them with triumphant feelings ; but
on the camps at a distance the effect was
difleicnt, for the smokes in the lake and on
the shores immediately disappeared.

The point on which we were encamped
forms, with the opposite eastern shore, a
narrow neck, connecting the body of the
lake with a deep cove or bay which receives
the principal affluent stream, and over the
greater part of which the water (or rather
ice) was at this time dispersed in shallow
pools. Among the grass, and scattered
over the prairie lake, appeared lo be similar
marshes. It is simply a sh 'Uw basin,
which, for a short period at t ^ time of
loelting saowB, is covered with water from

the neighboring mouiitaiiin ; but this pnib-
ably soon runs off, and leaven for the re
maindcr of the year a green savannah,
through the midst of which the river Tla-
math, which flows to the ocean, wind.s \u
way to the outlet on the f^outhweslern suic

))ccimbrr 11. — No Indiun.s made tlipu
appearance, and I determined to pay thim
a visit. Accordingly, the people were galh-
orcd together, and we rode out towards tho
village in the middle of thu 'ikc, which nix
of our guides had previously visited. It
could not be directly aiproaehed, as a lar);u
part of the lake appeared a marsh ; :in<l
there were sheets of ice among the grass,
ui' which our horses could not keep llitir
foo'ing. We therefore followed the guidu
for u considnrable distance along the forest,
and then turned off towards tho villagf,
which wo soon began to see was a few Vax^v.
huts, on the tops of which were collected
the Indians. When we had arrived witliin
half a mile of the village, two persons wero
seen advancing to meet us ; and, to pleai>u
the fancy of our guides, we ranged ourselvi.i
into a long line, riding abreast, while Ihev
galloped ahead to meet the strangers.

Wo were surprised, on riding up, to find
one of them a woman, having never befoio
known a squaw to take any part in the busi-
ness of war. They were the village ciiief
and his wife, who, in excitement and alarm
at the unusual event and appearance, had
come out to meet their fate together. Tho
chief was a very prepossessing Indian, with
very handsome features, and a singularly
soft and agreeable voice — so remarkable as
to attract general notice.

The huts were grouped together on the
bank of the river, which, from being spread
out in a shallow marsh at tho upper end of
the lake, was collected hero into a singlo
stream. They were large round huts, per-
haps 20 feet in diameter, with rounded top.',
on which was the door by which they do-
scended into the interior. Within, llier
were supported by posts and beams.

Almost like plants, these people seem to
have adapted themselves to the soil, and to
be growing on what the immediate locality
afforded. Their only subsistence at this
time appeared to be a small fish, great quan-
tities of which, that had been smoked and
dried, wero suspended on strings about the
lodge. Heaps of straw were lying around ;
and their residence in the midst of grass
and rushes had taught them a peculiari«kill
in converting this material to useful pur-
poses. Their shoes were made of straw
or grass, which seemed well adapted fur a
snowy country ; and the women wore on
their head a closely woven basket, which
made a very good cap. Among other
things, were parti-colored mats about fotu

[tA43

)ut tliiH |)rob-
n for the re-
II saviinnah,
li(! river 'Tli-
in, winds \u
western .suic.

made thru
to pity tliuiii
were fiii\.\\.

towards thu
0, wliieli OIK
visited. Ii
u\, as ii lai),'u
marsh ; ami
g the jrrass.
it keep llieif
cil the guidu
g the I'orest ,

llie village,
s a few larjrt'
ere collected
rrived williin
persons wero
rid, to pleabu
a;ed ourselvc.i
i, while thcv
ingers.
g up, to find
never hejcire
t in the biisi-
village cliici'
lit and alarm
learance, had
fether. The
Indian, with
a singularly
cmarkablti as

ether on llm
being spread
ipper end of
into a singlo
id huts, ptir-
■ounded toj)?,
ich Ihcy <io-
rVithin, llier
iams.

oj)le seem to
a soil, and to
iiate locality
}nce at this
, great qiian-
smokcd and
igs about the
nag around ;
idst of grass
pecuiiari«kill
useful piir-
de of straw
dapted for a
len wore on
isket, which
mong othei
s about foui

1813.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARHATIVR.

193

.t--''

iVet squarfi, which wo purchased to lay on
the snow under our blankets, and to use for
lahlc cloths.

Niiinliers of singular-looking dogs, re-
•^enililing wolves, were sitting on the tops
n( the huts ; and of these we purchased a
voting one, which, after its birthplace, was
lumrd Tlamath. The language spoken by
ihe.se Indians is difTerent from that of the
Sho^honee and Columbia river trilies ; and
i)lh('rwi.sc than by signs they cannot under-
stand each otiier. They made us compre-
hi.'nd that they wore at war with the peo{)le
who lived to the southward and to the east-
ward ; but I could obtain from them no
•orlain information. The river on which
iliey live enters the Cascade mountains on
ihe western side of the lake, and breaks
through them by a passage impracticable for
travellers ; but over the mountains, to the
northward, arc passes which present no
nthcr obstacle than in the almost impene-
trable forests. Unlike any Indians wo had
previously seen, these wore shells in their
noses. We returned to our camp, after re-
maining here an hour or two, accompanied
liy a number of Indians.

In order to recruit a little the strength of
iiur animals, and obtain some acquaintance
with the locality, we remained here for the
remainder of the day. By observation, the
latitude of the camp was 42° 56' 51"; and
the diameter of the lake, or meadow, as has
been intimated, about 20 miles. It is a pic-
turesque and beautiful spot ; and, under the
hand of cultivation, might become a -little
paradise. Game is found in the forest ;
timbered and snowy mountains skirt it, and
fertility characterizes it. Situated near the
heads of three rivers, and en the line of in-
land communication with California, and
near to Indians noted for treachery, it will
naturally, in the progress of the settlement
"f Oregon, become a point for military oc-
cupation and settlement.

From Tlamath lake, the further continua-
tion of our voyage assumed a character of
discovery and exploration, which, from the
Indians here, we could obtain no informa-
tion to direct, and where the imaginary
maps of the country, instead of assisting,
exposed us to suiTering and defeat. In our
journey across the desert, Mary's lake, and
the famous Buenaventura river, were two
points on which I relied to recruit the ani-
mals, and repose the party. Forming,
agreeably to the best maps in my possession,
a connected water line from the Rocky
mountains to the Pacific ocean, I felt no
other anxiety than to pass safely across the
intervening desert to the banks of the Bue-
naventura, where, in the softer climate of
a more southern latitude, our horses might
tind grass to sustain them, and ourselves be

sheltered from the rigors of winter and from
the iiihoMpitable dcHcrt. The ;,'iii(l('» who
had conducted us thus f;ir on our journey
w«'re about to rclurn ; and 1 ciiiii uvored in
vain to olitain otli' ' to lead ii^, even for
a fowduyw, in the direction (ca.st) which we
wialicd to go. The chief to whom I ajiplied
alleged the wiiiit of liorseH, and the snow on
the mountains acr(l^^s which imr course
would carry us, and the Hickncss of his fam-
ily, as reasons for rel'using to go with us.

Dectmbcr i'2. — This inorning the camp
was thronged with Tlamath Indians from
the southeastern shore of the lake ; but,
knowing the treacherous disposition which
is a remarkable characteristic of the In-
dians south of the (Jolumbia, the camp was
kept constantly on its guard. I was not
unmindful of the disasters which Smith and
other travellers had met with in this coun-
try, and therefore was equally vigilant in
guarding against treachery and violence.

According to the best information I had
been able to obtain from the Indians, in
a few days' travelling we should reach ano-
ther large water, probably a lake, which
they indicated exactly in the course we
were about to pursue. We struck our tents
at 10 o'clock, and crossed the lake in a
nearly east direction, where it has the least
extension — the breadth of the arm being
hero only about a mile and a half. There
were ponds of ice, with but little grass, for
the greater part of the way ; and it was dif-
ficult to get the pack animals across, which
fell frequently, and could not get up with
their loads, unassisted. The morning was
very unpleasant, snow falling at intervals in
large flakes, and the sky dark. In al)out
two hours we succeeded in getting the ani-
mals over ; and, after travelling another
hour along the eastern shore of the lake, we
turned up into a cove where there was
a sheltered place among the timber, with
good grass, and encamped. The Indians,
who had accompanied us so far, returned to
their village on the southeastern shore.
Among the pines here, I noticed some five
or six feet in diameter.

December 13. — The night has been cold ;
the peaks around the lake gleam out bright-
ly in the morning sun, and the thermom-
eter is at zero. We continued up the hol-
low formed by a small afiluent to the lake,
and immediately entered an open pine forest
on the mountain. The way here was some-
times obstructed by fallen trees, and the
snow was four to twelve inches deep. The
mules at the gun pulled heavily, and walk-
ing was a little laborious. In the midst of
the wood, we heard the sound of galloping
horses, and were agreeably surprised by the
unexpected sriival of our Tlamath chief,
with several Indians. He seemed to have

- ''K

.K;«j:

•pi

194

CAPT. FIIKMOXT.S NAIIUAI'IVK.

[ISt3

TouikI hJH ronduRt irihoHpitiiblo in li^ttitif^ llio
Atriin^ors 'Inpnrt without :i f^iiiilo thrnii|;h
tho «n<»w', and had como, with a lew othtTS,
lo pilcit UM !i day or two on tlie wny. Aftor
trav('llin« in an eaHtorly direction throuuli
the Ciiresl for ahout four hours, we reached
.1 (r(ln^tiderahh> 8treain, with a horder of ^'xxl
KriHN ; and here, by the advice of our guides,
we cnraniitod. It is al)out thirty feet wide,
and two to four feet deep; the water chsar,
with some current ; and, according to the
inforniution of our Indians, is the principal
aflhu'nt to (he lake, and the head water of
the Tlamath river.

A very clear sky enabled mo to obtain
here to-night good observations, including
an emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter,
which jrive for the longitude 12 1'^ ao' 42",
and for the latitude 42" 51' 20". This
•Miicrsion coincides remarkably well with
the result obtained from an occultation at
the encampment of December 7th to 8th,
1843 ; from which place, the line of our
survey gives an easting of thirteen miles.
The day's journey was 12 miles.

December 14. — Our road was over a
broad mountain, and we rode seven hours in
:i thick snow storm, always through pme
forests, when we came down upon the head
waters of another stream, on which there
was grass. The snow lay deep on the
ground, and only the high swamp grass ap-
peared above. The Indians were thinly
clad, and I had remarked during the day that
they suffered from the cold. This evening
they told me that the snow was getting too
deep on the mountain, and I could not in-
duce them to go any farther. The stream
we had struck issued from the mountain in
an easterly direction, turning to the south-
ward a short distance below ; and, drawing
its course upon the ground, they made us
comprehend that it pursued its way for a
long distance in that direction, uniting with
many other streams, and gradually becom-
ing a great river. Without the subsequent
information, which confirmed the opinion,
we became immediately satisfied that this
water formed the principal stream of the
Sacramento river ; and, consequently, that
this main affluent of the bay of San Fran-
cisco had its source within the limits of the
United States, and opposite a tributary to
the Columbia, and near the head of the
Tlamath river; which goes to the ocean
north of 42°, and within the United States.

December 15. — A present, consisting of
useful goods, afforded much satisfaction to
our guides ; and, showing them the national
flag, I explained that it was a symbol of our
nation , and they engaged always to receive
it in a friendly manner. The chief pointed
out a course, by following which we would
•nive at the big water, where no more

anow wiiN to ho found. Travelling in a di-
rection N. GO'-' I'-, by compnM, which the
IiidiaiiN informed mu would avoid n hail
mountain tt» the right, we ero.Hsed the Sa-
cramunto where it turned to tlie s(uith\var>l,
and entered a grassy level plain — a smallir
(iraiid Kond ; from the lower enil of wlucli
the river issued into an inviting (Mxiiitry o|
low rolling hills. ('roNsiiig a hard-fro/rn
swamp on the farther side of the Uond, we
entered again the pine forest, in which very
deep snow made our travelling slow and la-
borious. We were slowly but gradually a^
ccnding a mountain ; an(l, after a hard jour-
ney of seven hours, we came to some nakcil
places among the timber, where a few tufit
of grass showed above the snow, on the
side of a hollow ; and here wo encainjied
Our cow, which every day got poorer, ux'.
killed here, but the meat was rather tou^'li
Jhcpmber 16. — Wo travelled this morn
ing through snow about three feet deep.
which, being crusted, very much cut the
feet of our animals. The mountain ?till
gradually rose ; we crossed several spring
heads covered with quaking asp ; otherwise
it was all pine forest. The air was dark
with falling snow, which everywhere weiijii-
ed down the trees. The depths of the for-
est were profoundly still ; and below, \vk
scarcely felt a breath of the wind which
whirled the snow through their branches. 1
found that it required some exertion of con-
stancy to adhere steadily to one course
through the woods, when we were uncertain
how far the forest extended, or what lav
beyond ; and, on account of our animals, il
would be bad to spend another night on the
mountain. Towards noon the forest looked
clear ahead, appearing suddenly to termi-
nate ; and beyond a certain point we could
see no trees. Riding rapidly ahead to this
spot, wo found ourselves on the verge of a
vertical and rocky wall of the mouiilain.
At our feet — more than a thousand feet be
low — wo looked into a green prairie coun-
try, in which a beautiful lake, some twenty
miles in length, was spread along the foot
of the mountains, its shores bordered witi:
green grass. Just then the sun broke out
among the clouds, and illuminated the coun-
try below, while around us the storm rage<l
fiercely. Not a particle of ice was to oe
seen on the lake, or snow on its borders.
and all was like summer or spring. The
glow of the sun in the valley below bright-
ened up our henvts with sudden pleasure;
and we made the woods ring with joyful
shouts to those behind ; and gradually, as
each came up, he stopped to enjoy the uiv-
expected scene. Shivering on snow three
feet deep, and stiffening in a cold north
wind, wo exclaimed at once that the namei
of Summer Lake and Winter Ridge shoiiM

[1813

avcllin(7 in a Hi-
[)ft««, which tha
Id ikvoiil n had
(•roHMi'd the Sa-
( I ho mujlhwiiril.
plain — a Hinallcr
er ciul of whioh
iliii>» <Mniiitry n|'
jj a liard-fidzfn
of tlio UoikI, we
St, in which vpry
in^ hIow and l;i-
iMit (rraduallv »»
iflcr a hard jour-
10 to some tmkiil
,hero a few tuft-'
10 snow, (in the
c wo encainiind
pot poorer, wu-
as rather toiitjii
ellod this nuirn
three feet deep.
y much cut lhi>
3 inountain fUW
d several spring
5 asp ; other\vin(!
he air was dark
erywliere wfinli-
leplha of the tor-
; and below, wc
the wind which
heir branches. 1
: exertion of con-
' to one course
'6 were uncertain
led, or what lay
f our animals, w
ther night on the
the forest looked
ddenly to term!-
n point we could
dly ahead to thin
n the verge of :i
[>f the mountain.
thousand feet he
en prairie coun-
ike, some twenty
il along the fooi
IS bordered witi;
e sun broke out
ninatcd the eoun-
I the storm ragwl
if ice was to be
w on its borders,
or spring. The
ley below bright-
sudden pleasure;
ring with joyfnl
ind gradually, a«
to enjoy the un-
g on snow three
in a cold north
e that the namei
ter Ridge shoiiM

IfliS.

CAl'T. I'UKMONT'S N.VIiUATIVE.

IQ-^

li« applied til thoHO two proximate |ilacen of |
^u('ll Midden iiiid violent contrast. I

Wo were now immediately on tlio vergu '
.if the forest land, in wliicli we had been .
inivi lliiig HO many dayx ; and, looking for- 1
ward to the oiiNt, «e;iret! a tri'o was to bo ;
^leii. Viewed li'oiii our eleviitiou, the faix> |
if tilt! cotiiitry c.vhibited only rocks and
:ra<-s, and presented a region in which thu |
itrteniiMia became the principal wood, fur- 1
ni.'thiiii; to its scattered inhabitants fuid for
ilu-ir lires, building material for tliuir huts,
ind Mlu'ltei for thu small game which iiiinis-
\ftti to their hunger and nakedness. Droad-
Iv niaiknd by the boundary of the mountain
wall, iind immediately below us, wei«! the
liist waters of that (j'rcat Interior Basin
wliicii has tho Wahsatch and liuar river
miiuntains for its eastern, and tho Sierra
Nevada for its western rim ; and the edge
iif which wc had entered upwards of three
muntlis before, at tho Great Salt lake.

When wc had sufficiently admired the
Keeiie below, we began to think about de-
sceuiiiniT, which hero was impossible, and
wti turned towards the north, travelling al-
v.ay** along the rocky wall. We continued
i>n hv four or live miles, making ineffectual
;iticmpts at several places ; and at length
sneceedcd in getting down at one which was
r.vlicmely difficult of descent. Night had
closed in before the foremost reached the
bottom, and it was dark before we all found
ouMolves together in the valley. There
were three or four half dead dry cedar trees
on the shore, and those who first arrived
kiiiill^d bright fires to light on the others.
Ot>e of the mules rolled over and over two
or tlirco hundred feet into a ravine, but re-
covered himself, without any other injury
than to his pack ; and the howitzer was left
midway the mountain until morning. By
iiliservation, the latitude of this encampment
is 42^ 57' 32". It delayed us until near
noon the next day to recover ourselves and
put every thing in order ; and we made only
I short camp along the western shore of the
lake, which, in the summer temperature we
enjoyed to-day, justified the name we had
Ifiven it. Our course would have taken us
to the other shore, and over the highlands
beyond ; but I distrusted the appearance of
the country, and decided to follow a plainly
beaten Indian trail leading along this side
of the lake. We were now in a country
where the scarcity of water and of grass
makes travelling dangerous, and great cau-
tion was necessary.

December 18. — We continued on the trail
along the narrow strip of land between the
lake and the high rocky wall, from which
we had looked down two days before. Al-
most every half mile we crossed a little
■Fling, or stream of pure cold water ; and

the graNfj wan certainly a,s frenh and green
as in tho early s|iring. From the white
HtlloreMcencn along thu shore of the lake,
wo were e.iabied to judge that the water
was impure, like that <>*' lakes we Muhna-
ijiiently found ; but the mud prevented us
from approaching it. Wo encamped near
the eaMteiii |)oint of the lake, whtsro there
appeared between the hills a broad and low
connecting hollow with tho country beyond.
From a rocky hill in the rear, I could sec,
marked out by a lino of yellow dried grabs,
thu bed of a ntream, wliich probably con-
nected the lake with other water in tho
Hpring.

The observed latitude of this encampment
is 4ao 4'2' 37".

Ihccmber 19. — After two hours' ride in
an easterly direction, through a low (jonntry,
the high ridge with pine forest still to our
right, and a rocky and bald hut lower one
on thu left, wo reached a considerable fresh-
water stream, which issues from tho piny
mountains. So far as wu had been able to
judge, between this stream and the lake wc
had crossed dividing grounds ; and there
did not appear to be any connection, as
might be inferred from the impuru condition
of tho lake water.

The rapid stream of pure water, roaring
along between banks overhung with aspens
and willows, was a refreshing and unex-
pected sight ; and we followed down the
course of tho stream, which brought us soon
into a marsh, or dry lake, formed by the ex-
panding waters of the stream. It was cov-
ered with high reeds and rushes, and large
patches of ground had been turned up by the
squaws in digging for roots, as if a farmer
had been preparing the land for grain. 1
could not succeed in finding the plant for
which they had been digging. There were
frequent trails, and fresh tracks of Indians ;
and, from the abundant signs visible, the
black-tailed hare appears to be numerous
here. It was evident that, in other seasons,
this place was a sheet of water. Crossing
this marsh towards the eastern hills, and
passing over a bordering plain of heavy
sands, covered with artemisia, we encamped
before sundown on the creek, which here
was very small, having lost its water in the
marshy grounds. We found here trierably
good grass. The wind to-night was high,
and wo had no longer our huge pine fires,
but were driven to our old resource of small
dried willows and artemisia. About twelve
miles ahead, the valley appears to be closed
in by a high, dark-looking ridge.

December 20. — Travelling for a few hours
down the stream this morning, we turned a
point of the hill on our left, and came sud-
denly in sight of another and much larger
lake, which, along its eastern shore, was

it.

hill

180

CAPT. FUKMON'i 3 NAkUATIVK.

[ISIJ

lionlnrcd liy tho liish hliick rultfe
wliirli wulli'il it ill l»v ii |in'pi|nl(iiiM fiuvi on

nionri)

hy tho II

I liy II pri'
this Hiili- 'riiniiiKhoiil linn n-tjioii tin* fiicr
of till' roimlrv in cliiirJictfii/rd liy iIh'm! yrv-
ripicPN (if lihick volcanic rm-k, (,MMinriilly
(tncloxiii!? till! v.illoys of Htri-aniM, uiul fro-
qiii'nlly trriiiiii:iliii'4 ihi' IiiIIh. Ofli-n in llii)
I'oiiiMc III' iiiir jDurncy wn wmilil Im triiiptiMl
to coiitiiiui' mir riiail up llio ^imiiIi' aNci-iit of
a hiopiiitr lull, wliK'h, at tli** Miininil, would
iniiniiiati! abruptly iti a lilack precipice.
Spread out over a lLMip;tli of "20 iiiiIch, llio
lake, when wc fuBt caino in viow, jirosnntod
a liandmiiiii; (-lu'ct of walnr ; and I ;javi! to
it till! iiaini! of i.aki! Alicrt, in lioiior of the
cliiof of till! corp.s to wliicli I liclonRi'd. I'lio
frpwh-wali'r striain wc li:ul followed emptied
into the lake liy a little fdl ; and I waH
doubtful for a inoincnt whether to ^n on, or
encamp at this place. The miry ground in
the neigliborhood of the lake did not allow
US to examine tho water conveniently, and,
being now on tho borders of a doHert coun-
try, we were moving cautiously. It was,
however, still early in tho day, and I con-
tinued on, trusting cither that tho water
would be drinkable, or that we should find
some little spring from the hill side. We
were following an Indian trail which led
along the steep rocky precipice ; a black
ridge aloiij the western shore holding out
no pro.spcct whatever. Tho white efllorcs-
cenccs wliicli lined the shore like a bank of
.tnow, and the disagreeable odor which filled
the air as soon as we came near, informed
U3 too plainly that the water belonged to one
of those fetid salt lakes which arc common
in this region. We continued until late in
the evening to work along the rocky shore,
but, as often afterwards, tho dry inhospita-
ble rock deceived us ; and, halting on the
lake, we kindled up fires to guide those who
were straggling along behind. We tried
tho water, but it was impossible to drink it,
and most of the people to-night lay down
without eating ; but some of us, who had
always a great reluctance to close the day
without supper, dug holes along the shore,
and obtained water, which, being filtered,
was sufficiently palatable to be used, but
still retained much of its nauseating taste.
There was very little grass for the animals,
the shore being lined with a luxuriant
growth of chenopodiaceous shrubs, which
burned with a quick bright flame, and made
our firewood.

The next morning we had scarcely trav-
elled two hours along the shore when we
reached a place where the mountains made
a bay, leaving at their feet a low bottom
around the lake. Here we found numerous
hillocks covered with rushes, in the midst
of which were deep holes, or springs, of
pure water : and the bottom was covered

with gra^H, which, ulthoiigh of a nnlt atnl
iinwholcftoiiie quality, and mixed with n.iUw
etllorcitcence.*, wiis Ntill iiliuiid;iiit, and iiriili'
a good li:iltiiig place to ri'criiil our aiiitirils ,
ami we aceorilingly encamped here lor tlip
remiiiider of the day. I rode aheail »evrr;il
milen to aHcertain if the.e w:i!i any apjuMr-
ance of a watercoiiriHO entering the I ike ;
but found none, tlie hills presiMviiij,' tluvr
dry character, and llie t-liore of llie likr
Hjiriiikled with the Haine wliite powihiry miIi
stance, and covered with the Kaiiic mIii'iiIi'*
There weii! flocks of iluckM on tho hik<'.
and frequent track.'* of Indians along tlu
whore, where the gra^'.'^ had been recciitlv
burnt by their fires.

We ascended the bordering mounlaiii, in
order to olit;iin a more perl'ecl view of iIp'
lake in skelcliing its figure; bills sweep en-
tirely around its basin, from which the w,i-
ters have no outlet.

Dirrin/jrr tJ'J. — To-day we lofl this fur-
bidding lake. Impassable rocky ridges li.n.
red our progress to the eastward, and I :ic.
corditigly bore olT towards the south, over
an extensive sage plain. At a eonsulerriMi
distance ahead, and a little on our left, wis
a range of snowy mountains, ami the cdiiuiry
declined gradually towards the foe', of a liinli
and nearer ridge immediately liefire iix,
which presented the iValure of black proii-
pices, now becoming common to the einiii
try, On the summit of the ridgo, snowwus
visible ; and there being every imlicalion c!
a stream at its base, wo rode on until iil'ir;
dark, but were unable to reach it, and hiiliiil
among the sage bushes on the open jilnii:,
without eith> r grass or water. The t«"
Indiarubber bags had been filled with w.uiv
in the morning, which afTordcd sufliciciit li>r
the camp; and rain in the night forinrl
pools, which relieved the thirst of the iiiii-
mals. Where we encamped on the l)]e;ik
sandy plain, the Indians had made huts cr
circular enclosures, about four feet high ainl
twelve feet broad, of artomisia biibhc'.
Whether these had been forts or houses, or
what they had been doing in such a dosrrt
place, we could not ascertain.

December 23. — Tho weather is mild ; ilit
thermometer at daylight 38° ; the wind hav-
ing been from the southward for several days
The country has a very forbidding appear-
ance, presenting to the eye nothing but s;il"
and barren ridges. We rode up towariU
the mountain, along the foot of whicii wt
found a lake, which we could not approach
on account of the mud ; and, passing armiml
its southern end, ascended the slope at the
foot of the ridge, where in some hollows wa
had discovered bushes and small trees— in
such situations, a sure sign of water. We
found here several springs, and the hill side
was well sprinkled with a species offetlu-

[Id43

r II m\t mill
t with n:ilint>
lit, mill iiriih:
iiiir :itiitii;ils .
liiMi' lor till'
IkmiI »(nrr:il
iiiiv !i|iiii';»r-
;r till' liki';
it'i'vilin lllt'ir
III' tint lilkr
owilttry Mill
iiiiiif mIiiii!!"
Dtl till' l:ik''.

IM illoll^ till'

ocii roiiciitly

inountiiiii, in
I viinv (>r tin
lU swrcp (Ml-
liii'li till' w,i-

Iffl this I'lir-
jy ritljro.'* Ii;ir-

rd, ami I ric

otolith, liver

, ronxiilciviMi

our li'ft. \v;i>
III tlio roiiiiliv

foot of ;i liii:li

V lit;fiir(i ii>.
' bliick jiroii-

to llin uoiiii.
Jro, snow w;i-
/ imlic'ilion m
on iiiitil iil'ti .
I it, nml li:ilii'<!

o])ni |il;iii',
cr. TIk! t\V'
ed with w.iii'
[1 sufliciriit I'ur

night loriiic!
•st of the iiiii-

on tho l)ip:ilv

made huts it
• feet lii<»h aii''
iiiisia hiishr^

or housos. n:

1 sucli a dosrrt

;r is mild ; tlie
the wind Inn-
ir several d;iys
iddingr ap|ie;ii-
ithingf but i<;iL"
ie up tdwarilj
t of wiiicli wt
I not appnvicN
passing aronml
le slope at the
mo hollows W8
imall trees— in
if water. We
nd the hill side
ecies of fettu-

1843]

CAPT. FIIKMONTS NAKHATIVR.

197

ca — a hotter gtana tlian md had fniiii I for
many dayn. Our rluvalfd ponition unvu uh
Ik ^Mio I vii'W ovn' the coiiutry, but wit dia-
(•ti\rri:d uothiiiK Vrry i'iii'oiii.ii;imi;. Soiilli-
Miird, iiliiiiit tt'ii iiiilcH lll^l ml, wiiH aiiolhi'r
biiKkil l.iki', towards v\hicli a broad ful Ird
!,1mii^ iIh' ri<l^t> ; mid ibj;* app(•arlll^ to uf-
rmd iIm' luoNt practi(r.il)li' route, I ditcnuiuitd
kii riiutiiiuf our jounify in tlial ilirt'clion.

Dniinfii r ''21. — W'l! found tlin wal»!r of
till' i.iki' tob'rably pure, and ciicainpi'd at tbo
t'.iillur nid. 'riii'ri! wiro homo good gra«n
and raii»'H along tho bliorc, and tiio vi-gola-
tniii at tlii* placo cuuHisti.d principally of
clii'iiopodiac(!ou.s HlirubH.

Ihci mill r *J;'. — W'o were roiincd, on
t'liii>tiii;ts morning, by a di.iidiargu from the
Kii):ill arni'i and howitr.cr, with which our
)>''opli' Haluted the day ; and tho namu of
wiiK-li wu be.Uowcd (ui tho laku. It was tho
firsil time, p(!rhap», in tlii-i rcmnto and dcHo-
litu region, in which it hud boon so coin-
menioratcd. Always, on days of religious
or iiitiunal noinmemoration, our voyagcurs
t'xpi'ct .somu unusual allowanno ; and, hav-
ing nothing else, I gave them each a little
htiindy, (which was carefully guarded, as
iiiu; uf the most useful articles a traveller
(".III earry,) with some cofFeo and sugar,
wiiii'li here, where every eatable was a lux-
ury, was sufficient to make them a feast.
Till' day was sunny and warm ; and, rc-
fiuining our Journey, we crossed some slight
ilividing grounds into a similar basin, walled
III on the right by a lofly mountain ridge.
Tin; plainly beaten trail still continued, and
uccasioiially we passed camping grounds of
Uic Indians, which indicated to mo that wn
rti le liii one of the great thorough fares of
ilie country. In the afternoon I attempted
tn travel in a mnro eastern direction ; but,
iil'ier a few laborious miles, was beaten
hack into the basin by an impassable coun-
try, There were fresh Indian tracks about
the valley, and last night a horse was stolen.
\Vc encamped on the valley bottom, where
there was some creainlike water in ponds,
colored by a clay soil and frozen over.
tJlienopodiaceoua bhrubs constituted the
growth, and made again our firewood. The
animals were driven to the hill, where there
was tolerably good grass.

December 2fi. — Our general course was
iigain south. The country consists of
larger or smaller basins, into which the
mountain waters run down, forming small
lakes ; they present a perfect level, from
which the mountains rise immediately and
abruptly. Between the successive basins,
the dividing grounds are usually very slight ;
aiid it is probable that, in the seasons of
high water, many of these basins are in
communication. At such times there is
evidently an abundance of water, though

now wo find ■rarctdy luoro than the dry
b«<d«. On filher hide, the niomitaimi,
though not very hiuli, appear to be roeky
itnd sterile. Tlip luMii in vvhu-h we were
travi'llinu 'leeliiied lowurili tlie miiiiIiwi>hI
eoiner, where the iiiouiil:iiii!« iiidieuted »
narrow outlet ; and, turning round a rocky
jioinl or cape, wo continued u\i a literal
orancli valley, in wiiieh we eiii'aiii|ied at
niglil on a rapid, pretty little ^t^eall> of
fiehli water, whieh wu found unexpectedly
among llu! sage near the ridge, on the
right side of the valley. It wa.< bordered
with grasHy bottoms and clumps ol' willows,
the water partially fmzcn. Tins bliuaiii
belongs to llio baMii svo htd lel't. My u
partial oli.servation to-night, our camp was
found to be dire<-tly on the i-Jd parallel,
ro-niglil a horse belonging to (.'arnon, one
of tho beht we had in the camp, was htolen
by the Indians.

December 07. — Wo continued up the
valley of the slroam, the principal branch
of which hero issues from a bed of high
mountains. We turned up a biaiu-li to the
left, and foil into an Indian trail, which
conducted us by a good road ovur open
bottoms along lliu ercek, where the hiutw
was five or .-jix inches ilt,'ep. (iradually
ascending, the trail led tliroiigli a good
broail pass in the mountain, wbeic wo t'ound
the snow about one foot dee|i. There were
some remarkably large cedars in the pass,
which wore covered with an unusual ipian-
tity of frobt, which we supposed might |ios-
sibly indicate the neighborhood of water ;
and as, in the arbitrary position of Mary's
lake, we were already beginning to look
for it, this circumstance contributi'd to our
hope of finding it near. l)escen<ling from
the mountain, we reached another basin, on
tho flat lake bed of which we found no
water, and encamped among the sage on
the bordering plain, where the snow was
^tiU about one foot deep. Among this the
grass was remarkably green, and to-night
the animals fared tolerably well.

December 28. — The snow being deep, I
had determined, if any more horses were
stolen, to follow the tracks of tho Indians
into the mountains, and put a temporary
check to their sly operations ; but it did
not occur again.

Our road this morning lay down a level
valley, bordered by steep mountainous
ridges, rising very abruptly from the plain,
Artemisia was the principal plant, mingled
with Fremontia and the chenopodiaceous
shrubs. The artemisia was here extremely
large, being sometimes a foot in diameter
and eight feet high. Riding quietly along
over the snow, we camo suddenly upon
smokes rising among these bushes ; and,
galloping up, we found two huta, open at

■" ..' I

<.t,

■ ' M

I "'•:

*fe

198

CAPT. FUKMONPS NAUUA'IIVK.

(1813

lh<f top, .itKl InoNflly hiiill of ntim', ^vliinh
ii|i|H<;irci| to havn t)v«<ti ili'ni'rtcil iil ihi'
itiHtimt ; iintl, lixikint; liftily arniiiiil. wt!
fi;i\v m'vcrul liiiliiini i>ri tli«i frniil nf tlm
rulB" ni-nr hvi !Hi<l M'vnul olln-ri Mcramlw
linK III) llii> n'u\i'. We liitil rniiir ii|>iiti tliiMii
Md HU<lclriily, that IIk'V Irt'l l>''<'ii wcll-iiiuh
:<ur|>ri«ril III llii'ir IihIkch. A mui' (\r*> \\;i»
hiiiiiini; III ilii' iiiiililli' ; n fvw l)ii>k)MH iiiiiiln
(if niriiw wi'ri^ lyiiii; iilxiiit, witli mii* or two
laliliit HkiiiN; iinil tliorr w;in a litllo KriiHH
wMliiTcil altoiit, iMi winch tlioy h.iil hrrn
lyiriir. •' 'raliilin — lio !" llirv ulioiitod from
lilts hilU — :i word wliicli, in tho Siiaki'
lunju:i(;i>, ^iKiiififH tr/iifi — and remained
looking :it iih from lirtiind tlio rnckiH. Ciir-
Mon and (lodcv nidu towiud.i tho hill, but
tho intn run olF like deer. Tlioy lind luton
!«o niiicli |>r('HH(>d, tliiit a woman with two
children had drii|iiird lirhind a am^o ItiiNh
near the lodyu, and wIhh C irMoii accident-
ally Htiimhlcd upon her, shu immediately
bpfun Hcroaminjf in tho exlrcmily of fear,
and Hhiit her eyes fast, to avoid soeiii^
him. >*«ho was brought back to tho ludgu,
and wo endeavored in vain to open a com-
munication with the men. l)y dint of
presents, and friendly demonstration^, shn
was brought to calmncsB ; and wo found
that they belonged to the Snako nation,
sneaking tho language of that people.
Kiy:ht or ten appeared to live together,
under tho same little shelter ; and they
aocmed to havo no other subsistence than
the roots or seeds they might have stored
up, and the hares which live in tho sage,
and which they arc enabled to track through
the snow, and are very skilful in killing.
Their skins afr()rd them a little scanty cov-
ering. Herding together among bushes,
and crouching almost naked over a little
sage fire, using their instinct only to pro-
cure food, these may be considered, among
hmnan beings, the nearest approach o the
mere animal creation. We have reason to
believe that tiiese liad never before seen
the face of a white man.

The day had been pleasant, but about
two o'clock it began to blow ; and crossing
a .slight dividing ground we encamped on
the sheltered side of a hill, where there
was good bunch grass, having made a
day's journey of 24 miles. The night
closed in, threatening snow ; but the large
sage bushes made bright fires.

December 29. — The morning mild, and
at 4 o'clock it commenced snowing. We
took our way across a plain, thickly cover-
ed with snow, towards a range of hills in
tho southeast. The sky soon became so
dark with snow, that little could be seen of
the surrounding country ; and we reached
the summit of the hills in a heavy snow
storm. On the side we had approached,

thin had appeared to ho only a riilge of low
hiiln ; and we wore nurprified to liml mir
selveit on the Minnmit of a bed of liiokin
motintaini, which, an far mm tho weailiir
would iieiinit un to Nee, declined rapiillv tti
some (iiw country ahead, preHi'iitiiii( i
dreary and Muvage characte.r ; and for i
moment I looked around in donlit on iju'
wild and iiilioRiHlalde propped, Hciri'ily
knowing what n : ^i to lake wliicli iini^lii
conduct us ti» Nome place o*' Mheltor fur ilic
night. Noticing among the hilU the bcaij
of a gruHHy hollow, I di'l(>riiiiiied to jnlimv
it. III the lioiii! that it would conduct iih to i
Htream. \N o lollowed a wimliiig dcHciui
for several iiiileN, the hollow grailiiallv
broadening into little moadoww, and !)<'•
cinning the bod of a Mtreain as we u>l-
vnncocl ; and towards night we were agrou-
ably Nur|)risod by the appearance of a wil-
low grove, whore we found a Mlielten I
camp, with water and excellent and al)iiii-
ilaiii grass. The grans, which wan ooveriij
by tho snow on the bottom, wan long ainl
groen, and tho face of tho mountain liad a
more favorable character in its vegotalioii,
being smoother, and covered with gooij
bunch grass. The snow was deep, and tin
night very cold. A broad trail had onternl
the valley from tho right, and a short ill:)-
tanco below tho camp wore the trackx
where a considerable party of Tiidiaiit liuii
passed on horseback, who had liiruod (uii
to the loft, a|)parcntly with the view of
crossing the mountains to the eastward.

December 30. — After following the stream
for a few hours in a soiithoastorly diroc
tion, it entered a caflon whore wo ecuild imt
follow ; but determined not to leave llii.'
stream, we searched a passage below, whore
we could regain it, and cnlored a regulai
narrow valley. The water had now inoro
the appearance of a flowing creok ; several
times we passed groves of wiHows, and \vu
began to feel ourselves out of all difrioulty.
From our position, it wa« reasonable to con-
clude that this stream would find its outlet
in Mary's lake, and conduct us into a bettor
country. We had descended rapidly, aiiil
here we found very little snow. On lioiii
.sides, the mountains showed often stupen-
dous and curious-looking rocks, which :it
several places so narrowed the valley, that
scarcely a pass was left for the camp. It
was a singular place to travel througii — shut
up in the earth, a sort of chasm, the little
strip of grass nnder onr feet, the rough
walls of bare rock on either hand, and llie
narrow strip of sky above. The grass to-
night was abundant, and wo encamped in
high spirits.

December 31. — After an hour'^ ride this
morning, our hopes were once more de-
stroyed. The valley opened out, and beforf

(IH1.1

1044)

CAPT. FUKMONl'M NAUHAIIVK

Itf

iil^n of low
I find our

lit' liiiiki'ii
If wr:ilhtr

r;i|ii(lly In

•"»i'lllinif :i
:illil I'lir ;i
)l|l|t III) llir
, ncirccly
licli iiii^lii
IliT I'm ihi'
l-i iIm> Ihm.I

III t'llllllW
llll-t IIH to .1

11^ (li'Jii'riil
(;rnilii;ill\
fN, and Ik ■

;is wt! ml-
rt'crc iiKicf-

I' llf II Wil-
li Mlii'llcrc I
ami iiliiiii-
\n» o.ivcrril
IM \l\U^ iiikI
iritain liail :i
vcf^elalidii,
with ^Mdil
li'<-|), and tilt'
liad cntrri'il
a Nlnirt dii-
tlin trarkd a rt'^Miliii
I now more
ok ; si'voriil
)ws, and \vu
ill difTienlty.
lablc U) cciri-
id its nutlet
into a bcltur
rapidly, and
■. On hotli
Icn stupoii-
9, which iit
valley, that
I camp. It
ougli — shut
n, the littlf
the rough
nd, and the
le grass to-
ncamped in

W ride this
) more de-
, and beforf

HB HKuin liiy on* of llic dry IwiMinii. AHcr
»(initi M'ari'h, wi< dit('iivt>r<Ml u hii^h-wulrr
outlet, which hront(lil idi in a fi-w miN-n, himI
hy » lU'Mct'nt ot' nfvcrul hiindnid tii(!t. iiiln
anolhrr hm^ hroad hanin, m which wii Imind
ihi) lied of a Htr^niu, and ohluint'd tmlliciciit
water hy cutting thu ten. Tht) ^raaa on lhi<
liutlonit wan Halt and iin|ialalahle.

Here wn concluded the year |H|3, and
• mr new year'n evu wan rather a Khiorny
unn. 'I'ho result ol' our journey he^an to ho
vury uncertain ; the country waa NiuKnlarly
unl'avorahlu to travel ; the ((■'i'*'**''* heini;
IrMipiently of a very iinwiioleHnnHt idiarac-
t«r, and the hoofs of our aniinaU weru mi
worn and cut liy thn rockit, that many of
them worn lamn, and could searcely hit ((ot
alonu.

JVt'ic Year''s day, IS4I. — We continund
down the valloy, iictwuen a dry-lookiii|^
Idack ridu;n on the Infl and a moru tuiowy
and \\\\i\\ (inn on tho ri^lit. Our roud wan
had alonir tlin hottoin, hcMiif^ hiokcn hy u;ui-
lies and impeded hy sa((e, and Handy on the
hillii, w here there is not a blade of ({ratts,
nor dues any appear on the mountains, 'I'hn
^oil in many places consists of a fine pow-
ijcry Hand, covered with a saline efllori's-
'\e\\co ; and the general character of the
couiiiry is desert. During the day wo di-
rected ot.i* course towards a black capo, at
thu fiiot of v-hich a column of smoke indi-
rated hot spriLTs.

f iniKtrif Si. — " Vo were on the road early,
ami the face of ti.e countrv hidden by fall-
in)jr Huow. We travelled afonx the bed of
tho stream, in some places dry, in othcr.s
eovered with ice ; the travelliiifj beinp very
bad, through deep fine sand, rendered teiia-
cimi.s by a mixture of clay. The weather
cleared up a little at noon, and we reached
the hot sprinifs of which we had seen the
vapor the day before. There was a largo
field of the usual salt grass here, peculiar to
such places. The country otherwise is a
perfect barren, without a blade of grass, the
only plants being some dwarf Fremontias.
We passed the rocky cape, a jagged broken
point, bare and torn. The rocks are vol-
canic, and the hills here have a burnt ap-
pearance — cinders and coal occasionally ap-
pearing as at a blacksmith's forge. We
crossed the large dry bed af a muddy lake in
a southeasterly direction, and encamped at
night without water and without grass,
among sago bushes covered with snow.
The heavy road made several mules give
out to-day ; and a horse, which had made
the journey from the States successfully
thus far, was left on the trail.

January 3. — A fog, so dense that we could
not see a hundred yards, covered the coun-
try, and the men that were sent out after
the horses were bewildered and lost ; and

wo weru ctiMHeijuonily detained at camp un-
til late III the day. Our Hiiiialiun bad now
beioliie 11 nerious oili'. We li.id re.iihdd

and mil over the iiomlion wheif, .,< rijin

iim in in
have found .Slary'H

to the bent miii

lina
•uld

V pOH«Pnii|<in, Wi< ■-•hii
lake or river. We
were e\iMiriitly on ihii vergr of Ilic denorl
which had been re|ioiled to un ; and tin- ap-
peariiiico III' the country wan ho rnrluilding,
tliiil I w;iK .ifr.iid to ruler it, and ihiiiiiiined
III bear away to the Moiithward, keeping
clohc along the mountuiim, in the full expeo-
laiioii of reaching llui Miiena\eniiira river.
i'liiN iiioriiiiig I put every man iti the ramp
on loot — niynelf, of coume, luiiiiii;^ the reat
— and in this manner lightened liy ilintribu-
tioii the loaiU <if thu aniniiilH. We tniNellad
Hcven or eight niilcM along the xu\\n< border-
ing the valley, and encam|ied wheru there
weii^ a few bunches of grass on the bed of
a lull torrent, without water. Tiiero were
niinie large arteiiuHiaM ; but the principal
(ilant.s are clwnopodiacoouH shrubH. '1 he
rock c'/(n|»o.>tiiig the mountaiiiH is here
changod suddenly into white granite. The
fog »iliiiwed the tops of the htlls at sunset,
and stars enough for obsisrvatioiis in the
cirly evening, and then closed over us as be-
fore. Latitude by observation, iO ' JH' 15".

Januarif 1, — 'I'he fog to-day was still
inoie doii.se, and the people again wito bo-
wildered. Wo travelled a few miles around
tho we.itorn point of the ridge, and encamp-
ed wh(!re there were a few tufts of grasa,
but no water. Our animals now were in a
very alarming state, and there was increas-
ed anxiety in tho camp.

Januarif 5. — ^Sa^lo dense fog continued,
and one of tho mules died in camp this
morning. 1 have had occasion to remark,
on such occasions as these, that animals
which are about to die leave the band, and,
coming into the camp, lie down about the
fires. We moved to a place where there
was a little better grass, about two niilea
distant. Taplin, one of our best men, who
had gone out on a scouting excursion, as-
cended a mountain near by, and to his great
surprise emerged into a region of bright
sunshine, in which the upper pans of the
mountain were glowing, while below all was
obscured in the darkest fog.

January 0. — The fog continued the same,
and, with Mr. Preuss and (-'arson, 1 as-
cended the mountain, to sketch the loading
features of the cuunlry, as some indication
of our future route, while Mr. Fif/pat'rick
explored tho country below. In a veij
short distance we had ascended above the
mist, but the view obtained was not very
gratifying. The fog had partially cleared
off from below when we reached the sum-
mit ; and in tho awiihwest corner of a ba-
sin communicating with that in which w»

W ■

^ul

I ^1

' '1

ISO

CAPT. KU KMONT'N NAHUATIVK.

(It44.

sinoki', lA iiiilt'N ilmliini, iniliciiliiit; iIm' |)r<'-
MiMi('i< of hot n\n\i\\in. 'I'liiTi*, itUo, ii|i|M>iiri'<l
lo Imi thn (Millet III' lIxiMt' ilriiiiiiiit; i-Iiiiiiim-Im
of the rotinlry ; nml, im hik'Ii plitrrn ull'onl-
nil iklwayn nioro or Ii*mii KrimM, I ili-lcriiiini'il
lo Ki<>«>r in thni iliriTtimi. 'I'liu tu\u'' ^''
liail iiMfiMulril n|i|i<'iir«'il In Im riiiiipoiicil of
iViiKtiii'iilM (if wliitd ifriiniti'. Wi< law hero
IraccH (it' iihi'(>|i mill iuiIc|ii|m',

I'iiiti'rin^ lhi< iii>i}(liliiiriii(; Viiiicy, uml
rriiNNiriK thu lioil of nriiillii'r liikc, nl'icr ii liiinl
iliiy't Inivrl (iv«>r ((rniiiiil n( yii'litinir iiiihI
1111(1 Nrtnil, wi) ro.wihcil ilm H|iriiiifn, wlicrc
w«' roiiiiil iiii uliiiiiilnni-c (if uriiKN. wlucli,
(liiMiuli (inly tdlcriilily ^ond, niaiNt liiia |)l:k(*i>,
with ii>r«>n<nr« to tliu |itiiit, ii irl'nmliiiiK ninl
agri>«<uliln Rpot.

I'hia iH till* mo.^t I'xtraorilinury inciiiily of
hot i*|irinKii wc liiul nii>t iliirmu tlic joiiriify.
Till' liiiNtn III' llio lar^'CNt on** lian a circuiii'
rerrncti of aovoral hiinilml Tcct ; liiil lln'rc
in at one extremity a rin*iilar npaiT ol' about
fll'lccn i'vol in (lianii'ttT, entirnly oociipii'il
liy tlio boiling wntnr. It boiln np :it irrccfii-
inr intervals, and with iniicli noiNi>, The
water in clear, ami the Hprini? il«>i>p ; a pnli>
about Hixteen feel lonpf was ciNily inmierNi-il
in the ei)ntre, but we hud no ineanN of fiiriii-
in(( a i^oud idea of the depth. It wan niir-
ruiinded on the margin with a iinrder oC
firtrn (^rass, and near the nhorc the teinner-
aturo of the water was *.'()« '. We had no
ineaiH of ascertaining that of iho centre,
where the heat was greatest ; hut, by dis-
persing the water with a pole, the tempera-
ture at the inarjjin was increased lo i()8 J,
and in the contra it was doiibtlcss higher.
By driving »'io pole toward<i the bottom, the
water waa made to boil up with inerea.Hed
forco and noise. There are several other
interesting places, where water and smoke
or ^iXH escape, but they would re;;uro a
inun description. The water is inijirf t^na-
»cd with common salt, hut not no in ich as
to render it unfit for (general cooki )f ; and
a niixturo of snow made it pleasant to
drink.

Ill the immediate neighborhood, the val-
ley bottom is covered almost exclusively
with chenopodiaceous shrubs, of greater
luxuriance, and larger growth, than wo have
seen them in any preceding part of the
journey.

I obtained this evening some astronomi-
cal observations.

Our situation now required caution. In-
eluding those which gave out from the in-
jured condition of their feet, and those sto-
lon by Indians, we had lost, since leaving
the Dalles of the Columbia, fifteen animals ;
and of these, nine had been \ct\ in the last
few days. I therefo(^«determined, until
we should reach a country of water and vee-

elalinn, lo fi'ol our way ahnidl, hy having
the line of route i - plnrrd n(iiMi< lil'leen nr
twenty inilrn m iidvniice, itml only In leave
a pr< M'rit incainpin'H't when the pueri'tnling
one wan known.

'I'uking with me (iodey and Carson, I
made lo.ilny a lliiiroii|{li explnralinn of llin
ni'tghbnriii|{ valleyii, and loiind in .t ravine
in the bordering innunluiiis a goml eamp-
ing idace, where wan water in spring*, and
a niitneietit ipiaiitity ot grass for a night.
Overshadowing the springs were nonii*
trees of the sweet eottoii-wood, which, nlb<r
I a long interval of .ibsenee, we saw again
Willi pleasure, regarding them as hnrlungerH
of a bi'tler I'oiiiitry. 'I'o us, they wi-re e|o-
(iiient of green prairies and liulDilo. We
toiind here a broad and |ilainly marked trail,
on which there wore tracks of horxi-s, and
we appenri'd to have regained one of tlit;
ihoroughfarMt which pasH hy the watering
plac(>s of the country. On the western
mountains of the valley, with which thii of
the boiling spring conimunieatos, wo re>
marked scattr'red cedars — probably an indi-
cation that we were on the liorderM of the
limbered region extending to the I'acilic.
We reached the camp at sunset, after a
day's ride of about forty miles, 'i'he horwei
we rode wi*re in good order, being of some
that were kept for emergencies, and rarely
used.

.Mr. I'reuss had ascended one of the
inoiiotains, and iiccu]>ieil the day in sketch-
ing the country ; and Mr. Fitxpatrick had
found, a few miles distant, a hollow of ex-
cellent grass and pure water, to which the
animals were driven, as I remained anothei
day to give them on o|iportunily to recruit
their strengtti. Indians appear to be every-
where prowling about like wild animals, and
thorn is a fresh trail across the snow in the
valley near.

Latitude nf the boiling springs, -lU^ 30' 16",

On the 9th wo crossed over to the cotton-
wood camp. Attiong the shrubs on t!ie hills
were a few bushes of cphidra occulmlnl^/t,
which aflorwanis occurred freipiently along
our road, and, as usual, the lowlands were
(fbcupied with urtemisia. While the party
proceeded to this place, Carson and njyseff
reconnoitred tho road in advance, and found
another good encampment for the following
day.

January 10. — We continued our recon-
noissance ahead, pursuing a south direction
in tho basin along the ridge ; the camp fol-
lowing slowly after. On a largo trail there
is never any doubt of finding suitable places
for encampments. We reached the end of
the basin, where we found, in a hollow of
the mountain which enclosed it, an abun-
dance of good bunch grass. Leaving a sig-
nal for thu party to encamp, we continued

[IMI.

\Hi\

CAPT I'HKMONT.S NAUHATIVK.

181

our wny up thn hollow, inti'iiiliiic tn arf
what iity IwynntI tho inDiiiiiuirr, I'lifl HdI
low wan ■rvniAl rnili'x lim^, iDriiiitiK a uood
|KMa, lli<< aiKiw tlr('|ii>iiiiiK lo iilmiit ^ toot im
wii iK'iri-it ihi> Hiiriiinii ll(<\(in<l, a ilrlUi'
l)4'l\\('<Mi till' iiioiiiiliiiim ijcoi'niiii'il rn|iii|lv
iImkiI tMo thiiiiMitiiil U'vl ; mill, (illiii^ ti|> till
ilio lower Mptiri'. WAN II n\\rt)\ of uri'ri. wa-
ter, Moiiir twrriiy niiii'it hroail It lirok'* ii|i-
iin (Mir I y*'i< liko tli*' ocriin, 'i'|ii> nn^liJKtr-
iii(( |ii'iikN roau IiIkIi iil)ovi* iia, luiil wu na-
iiMitlcfl on<< of (li«'ni to oliiiiiii II Itotiiir view.
Thf wtivra w«rr curlitiK in Ihii hrci'Xt't ntiil
ilii'ir )liirk-({roi>n color mIiowciI it to li«> ii
liody ot' itorp wntrr. For i\ loti^ tiiiii< wr
Mat enjoying tlio view, for wi> tiiul lirconH'
fati|;ii''<l v^i'h mouiitainN, niiil tlut fri'i; i>x-

Iianar of movini^ wiivra wiin very ^^rati'fiil.
t wan M't like a irnn iii lli)> niounlaiiia,
wliii'li, from our |ioMiiioii, mtiiumI to i'tic'.o«e
il aliiioKt ('iitirfly. At thr wi'Hicrii i>ii<l it
roiiiiiiiinu'ati'd with tli«< liiiu of Iiuhiiih wc
liail li'H n few daya hIiicc ; aiid oti tho op-
|ioHil(* N. lu it ttwciit a riil^ro of otiowy tiiniin-
iain«. thi! fool of llic jfrciit Sii-rra. (tn po-
sition at firnt inclined iim to liclim-o it Mary'a
lake, l)Ut till) rii((u<)d tnoiinlaiim wuro ko oiw
lirely dtm'ordanl with doNeri|itionM of itn low
rush) MlinrcB and oiicn country, thai \\v
concliiilcd it Boinu unknown hody of water ;
whicii it afterwards proved to he.

On our road down, ihe next day, we hhw
liertiN of iiioiintaiii ithccp, and eiicaniped on
a little ntreani at ihe inniith of the defile,
about a niilo from the margin of the \. ater,
tu which wo hurried down iinint li.aely.
The water Ih so slii^htly Halt, that, at fir^t,
wo tliou),'hl it freuh, and wmild lie plGasaiit
tu drink when no other could he had. The
shore waa rocky — a handaome beach, which
reminded us of the seu. On some hruv
granilr boulders that wcr« scattered about
the shore, I remarked a coaling of a calca-
reous 8ub8tance, in some places u few inch-
es and in others a foot in thickncHs. Near
our camp, the hills, which were of primitive
rock, were also covered with this substance,
which was in loo great (piantity on the
mountains along the shore of tho lake to
have been deposited by water, and has the
appearance of having been spread over the
rocks in mass.*

* Tho label attached to a specimen of this

rock WBH loflt ; but I append an analyais of that

whiih, from memory, I judge to bo the Hpcci-

men .

Carbonate of lime .... 77.31

Carbanate of magnesia 5.25

Oxide of iron l.GO

Alumina 1.05

Silica 8.55

Organic matter, water, and loss 6.24

100.00

Where wn had li.tlleil, aj>p><ar«<d to he a
f.tvorile eniiipin|{ jdarr for Indiann.

Jiinunry IH. — \Ve followid w^wm abroad
IimIiiiii trail aloii^ ihn iihiirn o| the laki« to
the Houthward. h'or n Hhnit Npticp wi* had
room rnouuh in the boliom ; but, after trav-
i'lliii({ a ^tinrl diatanee, thr water *iMept the
loot of the preciiitloiin mountains, the peaki
of which are ubniit II.OOO feel iiltose the
lake. Tlie trail wound aloii(( the liaNO of
iheio' |ireeipiei«a, against whieh the water
duNhed below, by a wny nearly ini|>raeiiea"
hie lor the lio»it/.er. Ihiriiiif a urealir part
of the mortiiii;( the lake \mim near!) IimI by a
niiow niorni, and the wavcN hmke on the
narrow beach in a loni; line of foaiiiiiig turf,
five or Hix feet high, 'i'be day wan iin-
pleaNantly cold, the wind driving the Know
nharp againnt our faeen ; and, having ad-
vanired only about \'i miles, Wii eneainpod
III a boltoin formed by a ravine, covered
with goodagraKM, whieli wat frenh and green.

We did not gel the howitaer into eainp,
but were obhgcil to leave it on Ilit! rorka
until morning. We saw ^ev(!ral llocki of
hiieep, but did not mieceed in killing any.
DiieliM were riding on the waven, and mot-
era! large fish were neiMi. 'I'be mountain
MidcH were crimted with the caleareoiiH ce-
ment pri'viously mentioned. There wero
eheno|iodiaceouB and other HhriibH along the
beach ; and, at the foot of the rocks, an
al)undaiice of rphrdiit orritlcutnli.i, whose
(lark-green color makes them evergreens
among the shrubby growth of tho lake.
Towanls evening the snow began to fall
heavily, and tho country had a wintry ap-
pearance.

Tho next morning tho snow was rapidly
melting under a warm sun. Part of the
morning was occupied in bringing up the
gun ; and, making only nine miles, we en-
camped on the shore, opposite a very re-
markable rock in tho lake, which had at-
tracted our attention for many miles. It
rose, according to our estimate, ftOO feet
above tho water ; and, from the point we
viewed it, presented a pretty exact outline
of the great pyramid of (Jheops. Like
other rocks along the shore, it bccmed to
1)0 incrusted with calcareous cement. This
striking feature suggested a name for the
lake ; and I called it Pyramid lake ; and
though it may he deemed by some a fanciful
resemblance, I can undertake to say that
the future traveller will find much more
striking resemblance between this rock and
the pyramids of Kgypt, than ti;i lo in be-
tween them and the object from which they
take their name.

The elevation of this lako above the sea
is 4,890 feet, being nearly 700 feet higher
than the Great Salt lake, from whicli it lie*
nearly west, and distant about eight degre«■^

■*

•1

I-

■X

' . K*

139

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1844.

of longitude. Tito position and elevation
of this lake make it an object of (,riu)(^raplii-
cal intcr^at. It is the nearest hiku to the
wcHtern rim, as the Great Salt lako is to
the eastern rim, of the (I rout HaMJn which
lies between the base of iho Itocky moun-
tains and the Sierra Nevada ; and the ex-
tent and character of which, its whole cir-
cuinfercncc and contents, it ia so desirable
to know.

Tiie last of the cattle which had been
driven from the Dalles was killed hero for
food, and was still in good comlitioii.

January 15. — A few poor-loukinif Indians
made their appearance this morning, and
we succeeded in gettinfj one into the camp.
lie was naked, with the exception of a tu-
nic of hare skins. He told us that there
was a river at the end of the lake, but that
he lived in the rocks near by. From the;
few words our people could understand, he
i>pokc a dialect of the Snake langiiage ; but
we were not able to understand en- ugh to
know whether the river ran in or out, or
what was its courps ; consequently, there
still remained a chance that this might be
Mary's lake.

Groves of large cotton-wood, which we
could see at the mouth of the river, indica-
ted that it was a stream of considerable
size ; and, at all events, wc had the pleasure
to know that now wo were in a country
where human beings could live. Accom-
panied by the Indian, we resumed our road,
passing on the way several caves in the
rock where there were baskets and seeds ;
but the people had disappeared. We saw
also horse tracks along the shore.

Early in the afternoon, when wc were
approaching the groves at the mouth of the
river, three or four Indians met us on the
trail. We had an explanatory conversation
in signs, and then moved on together to-
wards the village, which the chief said was
encamped on the bottom.

Reaching the groves, we found the inlet
of a large fresh-water stream, and ail at
once were satisfied that it was neither
Mary's river nor the waters of the Sacra-
mento, but that we had discovered a large
interior lake, which the Indians informed
us had no outlet. It is about 35 miles long ;
and, by the mark of the water line along the
shores, the spriug level is about )2 feet
above its present waters. The chief com-
menced speaking in a loud voice as we ap-
proached ; and parties of Indians armed
with bows a .d arrows issued from the
thickets. We selected a strong place for
our encampment — a grassy bottom, nea-ly
onclosed by the river, and furnished with
i.bundant firewood. The village, a collec-
aon of straw huts, was a few hundred yards
higher up. An Indian brought in a large

fish to trade, which wu had the iiiuxpresMible
Matisfaclion to find was a salmon trout; we
gathered round hi i eagerly. The Indians
were amused with our delight, and imme-
diately brought in niimbers ; so that the
camp was soon stocked. Their flavor waa
excellent — superior, in fact, to that of any
fish I have ever known. Thoy wero of
extraordinary size — about as large as the
Columbia river salmon — generally from two
to four feet in length. From the informa-
tion of Mr. Walker, who passed among
some lakes lying more to the eastward, th's
fish is common to the streams of the inland
lakes. He subsoquently informed mo that
he hud obtained tiicm weighing six pounds
when cleaned and the head taken otV; which
corresponds very well with the size of those
obtained at this place. They doubtless
formed the subsistence of these people, who
hold the fishery in exclusive possession.

I remarked that one of them gave a fish
to the Indian we had first seen, which he
carried off to h.j family. To them it was
probably a feast ; being of the Digger tribe,
and having no share in the fishery, living
generally on seeds and roots. Although
this was a time of the year when the fish
have not yet become fat, they were excel-
lent, and we could only imagine what they
are at the proper season. These Indi-ins
were very fat, and appeared to live an easy
and happy life. They crowded into the
camp mo.'c than was consistent with our
safety, retaining always their arms ; and, as
they made some unsatisfactory demonstra-
tions, they were given to understand that
they would not be permitted to come armed
into the camp ; and strong guards were kept
with the horses. Strict vigilance was main-
lai.ied among the people, and one-third at a
tin were kept on guard during the night.
There is no reason to donbi that these dis-
positions, uniformly preserved, conducted
our party securely through Indians famed
for treachery.

In the mean time, such a salmon-trout
feast as is seldom seen was going on in our
camp ; and every variety of manner in which
fish could be prepared — boiled, fried, and
roasted in the ashes — was put ir .o requisi-
tion ; and every few minutes an Indian
would be seen running off to spear a fresh
one. Whether these Indians had seen
whites before, we could not be certain ; but
they were evidently in communication with
others who had, as one of them had some
brass buttons, and we noticed several other
articles of civilized manufacture. We cculd
obtain from them but little information re-
specting the country. They made on the
ground a drawing of ihe river, which ihey
represented as issuing from another lake in
the mourlains three or four days distantiin

[1844.

l>i('ssible

rout ; we

Indiana

I iiiime-

thiit tho

•ivor wan

t of any

wero of

e aa tho

from two

in forma-

I amon{{

rard, tlrs

ic inland

inu that

1844.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

iti

a direction a little west of south : beyond
which, they drew a mountain ; and further
still, two rivers ; on one of which they told
us that people like ourselves travelled.
Whether they alluded to the settlements on
tho Sacramento, or to a party from the
Tnited States which had crossed the Sierra
iihout three degrees to the southward, a few
years since, I am unable to determine.

I tried unRuccossfully to prev.iil on some
of them to guide us for a few days on the
road, but they only looked at each other and
laughed.

Tlie latitude of our encampment, which
may be considered the mouth of the inlet,
is 39^ 51' 13" by our observations.

January 16. — This morning we continued
our journey along this beautiful stream,
which we naturally called the Salmon Trout
river. Large trails led up on cither side ;
the stream was handsomely timbered with
large cotton-woods ; and the waters weie
very clear and pure. We were travelling
along the mountains of the great Sierra,
which rose on our right, covered with snow ;
but below the temperature was mild and
pleasant. We saw a number of dams which
the Indians had construe led to catch fish.
After having made about 18 miles, we en-
camped under some large cotton-woods on
the river bottom, where there was tolerably
good grass.

Januaru ^7. — This morning we left the
river, winch here issues from the moun-
tains on the west. With every stream I
now expected to see the great Buenaven-
tura : and Carson huiried eagerly to search,
on every one we rf-ached, for beaver cut-
tings, which he always maintained we
should And only on waters that ran to
the Pacific ; anc' the absence of such signs
was to him a ^ure indication that the water
had no outlet from the great basin. We
followed the Indian trail through a tolera-
bly level country, with small sage bushes,
which brought us, after 30 niles journey,
to another large stream, timbered with
cotton-wcod, and flowing also out of the
mounta;ns, but running more directly to the
eastwarr!.

On the way we surprised a family of
Indians in the hills ; but the man ran up
the mountain with rapidity ; and the woman
was so terrified, and kept up such a con-
tinued screaming, that we could do noth-
ing with her, and were obliged to let
her go.

January 18. — TheiP -.vere Indian lodj^es
and fish dams on the stream. There were
no beaver cuttings on the river ; but below,
it turned round to the right ; and, hoping
that it would prove a branch of the Buena-
ventura, we followed it down for about
three hours, and encamped.

I rod? out with Mr. Filzpulrick and Car-
son to reconnoitre the country, which had
evidently been alarmed by llie news of cur
appearance. This stream joined with the
open valley of another to tlio eastward ; but
which way the main water ran, it was im-
possible to tell. Coluiiin.s of smoke rose
over tiie country at scattered intervals —
signals liy which the Indians here, as else-
where, communicate to each other that
enemies are in the country. It is a signal
of ancient and very uni\ersul application
among barbarians.

Examining into the condition of the ani-
mals when I returned into the camp, I
found their feet so much cut up by the
rocks, and so many of them lame, that it
was evidently impossible that they could
cross the country to the Rocky mountains.
Every piece of iron that could be used for
the purpose had been converted info nails,
and we could make no further us>i of the
shoes we had remaining. I therefoie de-
termined to abandon my eastern coi.rse,
and to cross the Sierra Nevada iaio the
valley of tiie Sacramento, wiierever a prac-
ticable pass could be found. My decision
was heard with joy by the people, and dif-
fused new life throughout the camp.

Latitude, by observation, 39° 24' 16".

January 19. — A great number of smokes
are still viaible this morning, attesting at
once the alarm which our appearance had
spread among these people, and their igno-
rance of us. If they knew tho whites,
they would understand that their only
object in coming among (hem was to trade,
which required peace and friendship ; but
they have nothing to trade — consequently,
nothing to attract the white man ; hence
their fear and flight.

At daybreak we had ii heavy snow ; but
sat out, and, returning u)) the stream, wont
out of our way in a circuit over a little
mountain ; and encamped on the same
stream, a few miles above, in latitude 39°
19' 21" by observation.

January 20. — To-day we continued up
the stream, and encamped on it close to the
mountains. The freshly fallen snow was
covered with the tracks of Indians, who
had descended from the upper \.'aters, prob-
ably called down by the smokes in tlie
plain.

We ascended a peak of the range, which
commanded a view of this stream behind
the first ridge, where it was winding its
course through a somewhat open 'valley,
and I sometimes regret that I did not make
the trial to cross here ; but whil we had
fair weather below, the mountu^ns were
darkened with falling snow, and, feeling un-
willing to encounter them, we turned away
again to the southward. In that direction

■I

•a ' f!

131

CAIT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1844.

p '

we travollfd tlu; next dny over a tolerably
level country, i. ■iiip always tlio high
mountains on tho west. There was but
little Know or rock on the pround ; and,
after huving: travelled 21 miles, we en-
camped aijain on another large stream,
running off to the northward and eastward,
to meet that wo hail left. It ran through
broad bottoms, having a fine meadow-land
appearance.

I-aliliulc 30^ or 53".

./(Diuiiri/ 20. — We travelled up the stream
for about 11 miles to the foot of the moun-
tain.s, from which one branch issued in the
southwest, the other flowing from SSE.
along their base. Leaving the camp be-
low, we ascended the range through which
the first stream passed, in a cafion ; on the
western side was a circular valley, about
15 miles long, through which the stream
wound its way, issuinr from a gorge in the
muin mountain, which rose abruptly beyond.
The valley looked yellow with faded grass ;
and the tiail we had followed was visible,
making towards the gorge, and this was
evidently a pass ; bat again, while all was
bright sunshine oa the ridge and on the
valley where we were, the snow was
falling heavily in the mountains. I de-
termined to go still to Itie southward, and
encamped on the stream near the forks ;
the animals being fatigued and the grass
tolerably good.

The rock of the ridge we had ascended
is a compact lava, assuming a granitic ^-
pearance and structure, and containing, in
.some places, small nodules of ob&idian. So
far as composition and aspect are concerned,
the rock in other parts of the ridge appears
to be granite ; but it is probable that this is
only a compact form of lava of recent ori-
gin".

By observation, the elevation of the en-
campment was 5,020 feet ; and the latitude
S80 40' 54".

January 23. — We moved along the course
of the other branch towards the southeast,
the country affording a fine road ; and, pass-
ing some slight dividing grounds, descended
towards the valley of another stream. There
was a somewhat rough-looking mountain
ahead, \vhich it appeared to issue from, or
to enter — we could not tell which ; and as
the course of the valley and the inclination
of the ground had a favorable direction, we
were sanguine to find here a branch of thd
Buenaventura ; but were again disappointed,
finding it an inland water, on which we en-
camped after a day's journey of 24 miles.
It was evident that, from the time we de-
scended into the plain at Summer lake, we
had been flanking the great range of moun-
tains which divided the Great Basin from
the wat«rB of the Pacific ; and that the con-

tinued succession, and almost connection,
of lakeo and rivers which we encountered,
were t'.ie drainings of that range. Its rains,
springs, and snows, would sufficiently ac-
cotmt fur these lakes and streams, numerous
as they were.

January '2i. — A man was discovered run-
ning towiiids the camp as we were about to
start this morning, who proved to Le an In-
dian of rather advanced age — a sort of for-
lorn hope, who seemed to have been worked
up into the resolution of visiting the stran-
gers who were passing through the country.
He seized the hand of the first man he met
as he came up, out of breath, and held on,
as if to assure himself of protection. He
brought with him in a little «k'r. bag a few-
pounds of the ppfids of a pine tree, which
to-day we saw for the first time, and whicii
Dr. Torrcy has described as a new jecies,
under the name of pinus monophyllus ; in
popular language, it might be called the nut
pine. We purchased them all from him.
Tlie nut is oily, of very agreeable ll^vi r,
and must be very nutritious, Uo i! rr'Stii. • :;
the principal subsistence of the trib^ ,;" ;
which we were now travelling. By a jaes-
ent of scarlet cloth, and other striking arti-
cles, we prevailed upon tiii? nian to be ouv
guide of two days' journey. As clearly as
possible by signs, we made him understand
our object ; and he engaged to conduct us
in si/ht jf a good pass which he knew.
Her: we ceased to hear the Shoshonee lan-
guage — that of this man being perfectly
unintelligible. Several Indians, who had
been waiting to see what reception he would
meet with, now came into camp ; and, ac-
companied by the new-comers, we resumed
our journey.

The road led us up thr creek, Ayhich here
becomes a rather rapid mountain stream,
fifty feet wide, between dark-looking hills
without snow ; but immediately beyond them
rose snowy mountains on either side, tim-
bered principally with the nut pine. On the
lower grounds, the general height of this
tree is twelve to twenty feet, and eight
inches the greatest diameter ; it is rather
branching, and has a pecul'-- -"nd singular
but pleasant '. dor. We folk. . od the river
for only a short distance along a rocky trail,
and crossed it at a dam which the Indians
made us <7omprehend had been built to catch
salmon trout. The snow and ice were
heaped up against it three or four feet deep
entirely across the stream.

Leaving here the stream, which runs
through impassable cafions, we continued
our road over a very broken country, pass-
ing through a low gap between the snowy
mountains. The rock which occurs imme-
diately in tiie pass has the appearance of
impure sandstone, containing i^cales of black

[1844.

1844.1

CAPT. FUKMONTS WUU.VTIVK.

136

mica. Thia may be only a stratifieii lava. I
On issuing from the gap, the compact hiva,
and other volcanic products usual in the
country, aijiain occurred. We descended
from the gap into a wide valley, or rather
liasin, and encamped on a small tributary to
the last stream, on which there was very
^'00(1 grass. It was covered with suchtli;ck
ice, that it recpiired some labor with pick-
axes to make holes for the animals to drink.
I'he banks are lightly wooded with willow,
and on the upper bottoms are sage and Fre-
montia with ephedra occidentalism which be-
gins to occur more frequently. The day
has been a summer one, warm and pleasant ;
no snow on the trail, which, as we are all
on foot, makes travelling more agreeable.
The hunters went into the neighboring
mountains, but found no game. We have
five Indians in camp to-night.

January 25. — The morning was cold and
bright, and as the sun rose the day became
beautiful. A party of twelve Indians came
down from the mountains to trade pine nuts,
of which each one carried a little bag.
These seemed now to be the staple of the
country ; and whenever we met an Indian,
his friendly salutation consisted in ofl'ering
a few nuts to eat and to trade : their only
arms were bows and flint-pointed arrows.
It appeared that in almost all the valleys the
neighboring bands were at war with each
other ; and we had some difficulty in pre-
vailing on our guides to accompany us on
this day's journey, being at war with the
people on the other side of a large snowy
mountain which lay before us.

The general level of the country appear-
ed to be getting higher, and we were gradu-
ally entering the heart of the mountains.
Accompanied by all the Indians, we asc > '.-
ed a long ridge, and reached a pure spring
at the edge of the timber, where the In-
dians had waylaid and killed an antelope,
;nd where the grepter part of them left us.
Our pacific conduct had quieted their alarms ;
and though at war among each other, yet
all confided in us — thank.^ to the combined
efieots of power and kindne.^ — for our arnas
inbj ,i< d respect, and our little presents and
good treatment conoiliated tht:ir confidence.
Here we suddenly entered snov six inches
deep, and the ground was a little iOcky with
volcanic fragments, the mountain appearing
to be composed of such rock. The timber
consists principally of nut pines, {pinus mo-
nophyllus,) which here are of larger size —
12 to 15 inches in diameter; heapsof cones
lying on the ground, where the Indians
hare gathered the seeds.

The snow deepened gradually as wc ad-
vanced. Our guides wore out their mocca-
sins ; and, putting one of them on a horse,
we enjoyed the unusual sight of an Indian

who could not ride. He could not even
guide the animal, and appeared to have no
knowledge of horses. The snow was three
or four feet deep in the summit of the pass :
and from this pomt the guide pointed out
our future road, declining to go any further.
Helow us was a little valley ; and beyond
Miis the mountains ruse higher still, one
ridge above another, present mg a rude and
rocky outline. Wo 'kscendud rapidly to
the valley ; the snow impeded us but little ;
yet it was dark when we reached the foot
of the mountain.

The day had been so warm, that our moc-
casins were wet with melting snow ; but
here, as soon as the sun begins to decline,
the air gets suddenly cold, and we had great
difficulty to keep our feet from freezings
our moccasins being frozen pi^rfectly stiff.
After a hard day's march of 27 miles, we
reached the river some tin.a after dark, and
found the snow about a foot deep on the
bottom — the river being entirely frozen over.
We found a comfortable camp, wh'^ve there
were dry willows abundant, and we soon
had blazing fires. A little brandy, which I
husbanded with great care, remained, and I
do not know any inedicinc more salutary, or
any drink (except coffee) more agreeable,
than this in a cold night after a hard day's
march. Mr. Preuss questioned whether the
lamed nectar even possessed so exquisite a
flavor. All felt it to be a reviving cordial,
rhe next morning, when the sun had not
yet risen over 'he mountains, the thermom-
eter was 2^ below zero ; but the sky was
bright and pure, and the weather changed
rapidly into a pleasant day of summer. I
remained encamped, in order to exumine the
country, and allow the animals a day of rest,
the grass being good and abundant under
the snow.

The river is fifty to eighty feet wide,
with a lively current, and very clear water.
It forked a little above our camp, one of its
branches coming directly from the south.
At its head appeared to be a liandscjiiie pass ;
and from the neighboring heights we could
see, beyond, a comparatively low and open
country, which was oupposed to form the
valley of the Buenaventura. The other
branch issued from a nearer pass, in a
direction S. 75° W., forking at the foot
of the mountain, and receiving part of its
waters from a little lake. I was in advance
of the camp when our last guides had lei't
us ; but, so far as could be understood, this
was the pass which they had indicated, and,
in company with 'arson, to-day I set out to
explore it. Entering the range, we con-
tinued in a northwesterly direction up the
vallej , which here bent to the right. It
was a pretty, open bottom, locked between
lofty mountains, which supplied frequent

136

CAPT. FREMONT'S N4.RRATIVE.

[1844.

streams as wo advanced. On tho lower
part they wore covorod wiih nut-pino trees,
and above with masses of pine, which we
eaaily recopniscd, from tho darker color of
the foliage. From tiic fresh trails which
oecnrred frequently during tho morning,
deur appeared to he remarkably numerous
in the mountain.

Wo had now entirely left tho desert
countiy, and were cm the vergo of a region
which, extending westward to the shores of
the Pacific, abounds in largo game, and is
covered with a singular luxuriance of vege-
table life.

The little stream prew vapidly smaller,
and in about twelve miles we had reached
its head, the last water coming immediately
out of the mountain on the right ; and this
spot was selected for our next encampment.
The grass show ' ^••'<1I in sunny places;
but in colder situa i i snow was deep,

and began to occur in ^s, through which
the horses found some Giiiiculty in breaking
a way.

To the left, the open valley continued in
a southwesterly direction, with a scarcely
perceptible ascen7, forming a beautiful pass :
the exploration of which we deferred until
the next day, and returned to the camp.

To-day an Indian passed through the val-
ley, on his way into the mountains, where
he showed us was his lodge. We compre-
hended nothing of his language ; and, though
he appeared to have no fear, passing along
in full view of the camp, he was indisposed
to hold any communication with us, but
showed the way he was going, and pointed
for us to go on our road.

By observation, the latitude of this en-
campment was 38° 18' 01", and the eleva-
tion above the sea 6,310 feet.

January 27. — Leaving the camp to fol-
low slowly, with directions to Carson to en-
camp at the place agreed on, Mr. Fitzpatrick
and myself continued the reconnoissance.
Vrriving at the head of the stream, we be-
^-an to enter the pass — passing occasionally
through open groves of largo pine trees, on
the warm side of the defile, where the snow
had melted away, occasionally exposing a
large Indian trail. Continuing along a nar-
row meadow, we reached in a few miles the
gate of the pass, where there was a narrow
strip of prairie, about fifty yards wide, be-
tween walls of granite rock. On either side
rose the mountains, forming on the left a
rugged mass, or nucleus, wholly covered
with deep snow, presenting a glittering and
ioy surface. At the time, we supposed this
to be the point into which they were gath-
ered between the two great rivers, and from
which the waters flowed off to the bay.
This was the icy and cold side of the pass,
and the rays of the sun hardly touched the

snow. On the letV, the mountains rose into
peaks ; but they wore lower and secondary,
and the country had a somewhat more open
and lighter character. On the right were
several hot springs, which appeared remark-
able in such a place. In going through, we
felt impressed by the majesty of the moun-
tain, along the huge wall of which wo were
riding. Here there was no snow ; but im-
mediately beyond was a deep bank, through
which we dragged our horses with consider-
able effort. We then immediately struck
upon a stream, which gathered itself rapid-
ly, and descsnded quick ; and the valley did
not preserve the open character of the other
side, appearing below to form a cation. We
therefore climbed one of the peaks on the
right, leaving our horses below ; but we
were so much shut up, that we did not ob-
tain an extensive view, and what we saw
was not verv satisfactory, and awakened
considerable doubt. The valley of the
stream pursued a northwesterly direction,
appearing below to turn sharply to the right,
beyond which further view was cut off. It
was, nevertheless, resolved to continue our
road the next day down this valley, which
we trusted still would prove that of the
middle stream between the two great rivers.
Towards the summit of this peak, the fields
of snow were f'vur or five feet deep on the
northern side ; and we saw several large
hares, which had on their winter color, be-
ing white as the snow around them.

The winter day is short in the mountains,
the sun having but a small space of sky to
travel over in the visible part above our
horizon ; and the moment his rays are gone,
the air is keenly cold. The interest of our
work had detained us long, and it was after
nightfall when we reached the camp.

January 28. — To-day we went through
the pass with all the camp, and, after a hard
day's journey of twelve miles, encamped on
a high point where the snow had been blown
off, and the exposed grass afforded a scanty
pasture for the animals. Snow and broken
country together made our travelling diffi-
cult : we were often compelled to make
large circuits, and ascend the highest and
most exposed ridges, in olrder to avoid
snow, which in other places was banked up
to a great depth.

During the day a few Indians werd seen
circling around us on snow shoes, and
skimming along like birds ; but we could
not bring them within speaking distance.
Grodey, who was a little distance from the
camp, had sat down to tie his moccasins,
when he heard a low whistle near, and,
looking up, saw two Indians half hiding oe-
hind a rock about forty yards distant ; they
would not allow him to approach, but
breaking into a laugh, skimmed off over

[1844.

1844.J

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

137

the snow, seeming to luive no idea of the
power uf fire-arms, and thinking them-
selves perfectly safe when beyond arm's
lenuth.

'r<>-nipht we did not succeed in getting
the howitzer into ciiinp. This was the
mo laborious day we had yet passed
thiuugh, the stoep ascents and deep snow
exhausting both men and animals. Our
single chronometer had stopped during the
day, and its error in time occasioned the
loss of an eclipse of a satellite this even-
ing. It had not preserved the rate with
wliich we started from the Dalles, and this
will account for the absence of longitudes
along this interval of our journey.

January '29. — From this height wc could
see, at a considerable distance below, yel-
low spots in the valley, which indicated
that there was not much snow. One of
these places we expected to reach to-
night ; and some time being required to
bring up the gun, I went ahead with Mr.
Fitzpatrick and a few men, leaving the
camp to follow, in charge of Mr. Preuss.
We followed a trail down a hollow where
the Indians had descended, the snow being
30 deep that we never came near the
ground ; but this only made our descent
the easier, and, when we reached a little
affluent to the river at the bottom, wc sud-
denly found ourselves in presence of eight
or ten Indiana. They seemed to be watch-
ing our motions, and, like the others, at
first were indisposed to let us approach,
ranging themselves like birds on a fallen
log on the hillside above our heads, where,
being out of reach, they thought themselves
safe. Our friendly demeanor reconciled
them, and, when we got near enough, they
immediately stretched out to us handfuls
of pine nuts, which seemed an exercise of
hospitality. We made them a few pres-
ents, and, telling us that their village was a
few miles below, they went on to let their
people know what we were. The principal
stream still running through an impractica-
ble canon, we ascended a very steep hill,
which proved afterwards the last and fatal
obstac'e to our little howitzer, which was
finally abandoned at this place. We passed
throuf'h a small meadow a icw miles be-
low, crossing the river, which depth, swift
current, and rock, made it difficult to ford ;
and, after a few more miles of very difficult
trail, issued into a larger prairie bottom, at
the farther end of which we encamped, in
a position rendered strong by rocks and
trees. The lower parts of the mountain
were covered with the nut pine. Several
Indians appeared on the hillside, recon-
noitring the camp, and were induced to
come in ; others came in during the after-
noon ; and in the evening we held a coun-

cil. The Indians immediately made it
clear that the waN-rs on which wo were
also belong to the CJrcat Uasin, in tln> »Mlg«
of which wo had been since tho 17Ui of
l)eceml)er ; and it became evident that we
liad still the grrat ridg ; on the left to cross
before we could reach ihe Pacific waters.

We explained to the iiidiaiis tiiat we
were endeavoring to find a passiigo across
the mountains into tiic country of the
whites, whom we were going to see ; and
told them that wc wished tliuni to bring ua
a guide, to whom we would give presents
of scarlet cloth, and other ailieles, which
were shown fo them. Tiicy looked at the
reward we offered, and coiitbned with each
other, but pointed to the snow on the
mountain, and drew their hands across their
necks, and raised them above their heads,
to show the depth ; and signified that it
was impossible for us to get through. They
made signs that we must go to the south-
ward, over a pass through a lower range,
which they pointed out ; there, they said,
at the end of one day's travel, wc would
find people who lived near a pass in the
great mountain ; and to that point they
engaged to furnish us a guide. They ap-
peared to have a confused idea, from re-
port, of whites who lived on the oilier side
of the mountain ; and once, they tuld us,
about two years ago, a party of twelve men
like ourselves had ascended their river,
and crossed to the other waters. Tiiey
pointed out to us where they had crossed ;
but then, they said, it was summer time ;
but now it would be impossible. I believe
that this was a party led by Mr. Chiles,
one of the only two men whom I know to
have passed through the California moun-
tains from the interior of the Basin —
Walker being the other ; and both were
engaged upwards of twenty days, in the
summer time, in getting over.' Chiles's
destination was the bay of San Francisco,
to which he descended by the Stanislaus
river ; and Walker subsequently informed
mo that, like myself, descending to the
southward on a more eastern line, day
after day he was searching for the Bue-
naventura, thinking that ho had found it
with every new stream, until, like me, he
abandoned all idea of its existence, and,
turning abruptly to the right, crossed the
great chain. These were both western
men, animated with the spirit of explqra-
tory enterprise which characterizes that
people.

The Indians brought in during the even-
ing an abundant supply of pine nuts, which
we traded from thetn. When roasted,
their pleasant flavor made them an agreea-
ble addition to our now scanty store of
provisions, which were reduced to a very

\' »^j

i "^

■ 1 '■'

i«'

(1
■ i -1*1

r'.:|4'|

■ IK

CAPT. FUKMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1844.

low ebb. Our iniiicipul htoek web in peas,
whiah it is .<iut nece-ssary tt> say contain
scarcely any nutriment. We liixl Htiil a
little flour left, sumu colTuc, and a quantity
of sugar, which I reserved as a ilefcncp
against starvation.

The Indians informed us that at certain
seasons they liavn tisli in their waters,
whicli wt! supposed to be salmon trout ; lor
the rcuiitiiuler of the year they Uve upon
the pine nut.s, which form their creat winter
subsistence — a portiun being always at
hand, siuit up in the natural storehouse of
the cones. At present, they wore presented
to us as a whole [leopie living upon this
simple vegetable.

liie other division of the party did not
come in to-ni<;ht, but eni;amped in the n[)-
per meadow, and arrived the next morning.
They had not succeeded in getting the
howitzer beyoml the place mentioned, and
where it had been left by Mr. Preuss in
obedience to my orders ; and, in anticipa-
tion of the snow banks and snow Rclds still
ahead, foreseeing the inevitable detention
to which it would subject us, I reluctantly
determined to leave it there for the time.
It was of the kind invented by the French
for the mountain part of their war in Al-
giers ; and the distance it had come with
us proved how well it was adapted to its
purpose. We left it, to the great sorrow
of the whole party, who were grieved to
part with a companion which had made
the whole distance from St. Louis, and
commanded respect for U3 on some critical
occasions, and which might be needed for
the same purpose again.

January 30. — Our guide, who was a
young man, joined us this morning ; and,
leaving our encampment late in the day,
we descended the river, which immediately
opened out into a broad valley, furnishing
good travelling ground. In a short distance
we passed the village, a collection of straw
huts ; and a few miles below, the guide
pointed out the place where the whites had
been encamped before they entered the
mountain. With our late start we made
but ten miles, and encamped on the low
river bottom, whore there was no snow, but
a great deal of ice ; and we cut piles of
long grass to lay under our blankets, and
fires were made of large dry willows,
groves of which wooded the stream. The
river took hero a northeasterly direction,
and through a spur from the mountains on
the left was the gap where we were to pass
the next day.

January 31. — We took our way over a
gently rising ground, the dividing ridge be-
ing tolerably low ; and travelling easily
along a broad trail, in twelve or fourteen
miles reached the upper part of the pass,

when it began to smiw thickly, with very
cold weather. The Indians had only the
usual scanty covering, and appeared to suf-
fer greatly from the cold. All h-ft us, ex
copt our guide. Half hidden by the storm,
tiie mountains looked dreary : iiud, as night
began to ajjproach, the guide siiowed great
reluctance to go forward. 1 pl:i«'«d him
between two rifles, for the way begun to be
ilifRcult. Travelling a little fiirlhur, we
struck a ravine, which the Imlian said
would conduct us to the river ; and as the
poor fellow sufftred greatly, shivering in
the snow which fell upon his naked skin, I
would not detain him any lunger ; and he
ran ofT to tho mountain, where ho s;iiil
tiiore was a hut near by. Ho hud kept the
blue and scarlet cloth I had given hiui
tightly rolled up, preferring rather to endure
the cold than to get theia wet. In the
course of the afternoon, one of the men had
his foot frost-bitten ; and about dark we had
the satisfiiction to reach the bottoms of a
stream timbered with large trees, auiony
which we found a sheltered camp, with ai<
abundance of such grass as the season af-
forded for the animals. We saw before us,
in descending from the pass, a great continu-
ous range, along which stretched the vallev
of the river ; the lower parts steep, and dark
with pines, while above it was hidden in
clouds of snow. This we felt instantly satisfi-
ed was the central ridge of the Sierra Nevada,
the great California mountain, which only
now intervened between us and the waters
of the bay. We had made r. forced march
of 26 miles, and three mules had given out
on the road. Up to this point, with the ex-
ception of two stolen by Indians, we had
lost none of the horses which had been
brought from the Columbia river, and a
number of these were still strong and in tol-
erably good order. We had now G7 ani-
mals in the band.

We had scarcely lighted our fires, when
the camp was crowded with nearly naked
Indians ; some of them were furnished with
long nets in addition to bows, and appeared
to have been out on the sage hills to hunt
rabbits. These nets were perhaps 30 to 40
feet long, kept upright in the ground by
slight sticks at intervals, and were made
from a kind of wild hemp, very much re
sembling in manufacture those coinnmn
among the Indians of the Sacramento val
ley. They came among us without any fear,
and scattered themselves about the fires.
mainly occupied in gratifying their astonish-
ment. I was struck by the singular ap-
pearance of a row of about a dozen, who
were sitting on their haunches perched on
a log near one of the fires, with their quick
sharp eyes following every motion.

We gathered together a few of the moat

ie^-

1844.]

CAPT. rHK.MONT'S NAIlllATIVK.

130

intelligent of the Indians, and held this even-
ing an interesting council. I cxphiined to
them my intentions. I tuld thcin tiiat wo
had come from a very far country, having
Itoen travelling now nearly a year, and that
we were desirous simply to go across the
mountain into the country of the other
whites. There were two who appeared
particularly intelligent — one, a somewhat
(lid man. )le told me tha't, before the snows
foil, it was si.\ sleeps to the place wlicre
tiie whites lived, but that now it was im-
possible to cross the mountain on account
of the deep snow ; and showing us, as the
others had done, that it was over our heads,
he urged us strongly to follow llie course
of the river, which ho said would conduct
us to a lake in which there were many large
fish. Tliere, he srad, were many people ;
there was no snow on the ground ; and wc
might remain there until the spring. From
their descriptions, we were enabled to judge
that we had encamped on the upper water
of the Salmon Trout river. It is hardly
necessary to say that our communication
was only by signs, as we understood no-
thing of their language ; hut they spoke,
notwithstanding, rapidly and vehemently,
explaining what they considered the folly
of our intentions, and urging us to go down
to the lake. Tdh-ve, a word signifying
snow, we very soon learned to know, from
its frequent repetition. I told liim that the
men and the horses were strong, and tiiat
we would break a road through the snow ;
and spreading before him our bales of scar-
let cloth, and trinkets, showed him what we
would give for a guide. It wa« necessary
to obtain one, if possible ; for I had deter-
mined here to attempt tho passage of the
mountain. Pulling a bunch of grass from
the ground, after a short discussion among
themselves, the old man made us compre-
hend, that if we could break through the
snow, at the end of three days we would
I'ume down upon grass, which he showed us
would be about six inches high, and where
the ground was entirely free. So far, he
said, he had been 1 1 hunting for elk ; but
beyond tiiat (and he closed his eyes) he had
«een nothing ; but there was one among
tliem who had been to the wli'tes, and, go-
ing out of the lodge, he retu ned with a
young man of very intelligent appearance.
Here, said he, is a young man who has
seen the whites with his own eyes ; and he
swore, first by the sky, and then by the
ground, that what he said was true. With
a large present of goods, ■ ve prevailed upon
this yuung man to be our guide, and he ac-
quired among us the name Melo — a word
signifying friend, which they used very fre-
quently. He was thinly clad, and nea'' /
barefoot ; his moccasins being about worn

out. Wc gave him skins to make a uew
pair, and to enable him to perform liis un-
dertaking to us. Tho Iniliiin.s ri'in:iinod in
the camp during the night, and wo licpt the
guide and two others to .'<l('rii in tho ludg*-
with us — Oarson lying aorosM the door, and
having made them eoiiipicJK'iiil I he Uboofout
fire-arms. Tho snow, wliicli liai! iiitormit'
ted in tho evening, coiniiioncod Ihilii);/ :igain
in the course of tho niglit, and it hiinwon
steadily all day. In tiio nioining 1 acipiaint-
ed the men with my decision, and o.xpluineu
to them that necessity rcquirod us lu make
a great effort to clear tlio moiintuius. I re-
minded them of tiio beautiful valloy of tho
.Sacramento, with wliioli thoy were familiar
from the descriptions of Ciuson, who had
been there some fifteen years ago, ami who,
in our late privations, had delighted us in
speaking of its ricii pastures and abounding
game, and drew a vivid contrast boween its
summer climate, less than a hundred miles
distant, and the falling .snow around ns. I
infoined them (and long experience had
given ihem confidence in my observations
and good instrument.s) that almost directly
west, and only about 70 miles distant, was
the great farming establishment of Captain
Sutter — a gentleman who had formerly
lived in Missouri, and, emigrating to this
country, had become the possessor of a
principality. I assured them that, from the
heights of the mountain before us, we
should doubtless see the valley of the Sa-
cramento river, and with one ellbrt place
ourselves again in the midst of plenty. The
people received this decision with the cheer-
ful obedience which had always character-
ized them ; and the day was immediately
devoted to the preparations necessary to en-
able us to carry it into eil'ecl. Lcggins,
moccasins, clothing — all were put into the
best state to resist the cold. Our guide was
not neglected. Extremity of suffering might
make him desert ; we therefore did the best
we could for him. Leggins, moccasins,
some articles of clothing, and a large green
blanket, in addition to the blue and scarlet
cloth, were lavished upon him, and to his
great and evident contentment. Ho array-
ed himself in all his colors ; and, clad in
green, blue, and scarlet, he made a gay-
looking Indian ; and, with his various pres-
ents, was probably richer and better clotfi-
ed than any of iiis tribe had ever been
before.

I have already said that our provisions
were very low ; we liad neither tallow nor
grease of any kind remaining, and the want
of salt became one of our greatest privations.
The poor dog which had been found in the
Bear river valley, and which had been a
compagnon de voyage ever since, had now
become fat, and the mess to which it be-

v,'-:

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lit:

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';r

''''.
^

1t
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140

CAPT. FUKMONTS NAUKA'I'I\ K.

11814.

longed roquc8>0(l purtiiiHttion tu kill it. I.ciivo
waa ((runted. Spread out on tliu unuw, tlie
meat looked very (food ; und it inade a
atrengtiicninff meal lor the greater part of
the eainp. Indian!! hniuglit in two or tlirto
rabbits during tbo day, whicli weru piir-
cliaaed from tlinm.

Tlic rivor was 10 to 70 feet wide, and
now entirely frozen over. It waa wooded
with large cotton-wood, willow, and if/(/(/(
dc liwuf. Uy observation, the I ititude of
this encanipmont was 3H ' 37' 18".

Ff/jruari/ "J. — It had ceased snowing,
and this morning the lower air was elear
and frosty ; and aiy or seven thousand feet
above, the peaks of the Sierra now and tlicn
appeared among the roiling clouds, which
were rapidly dispersing before the sun. Our
Indian shook his head us he pointed to tiie
icy pinnacles, shooting high uj) into the sky,
and seeming almost immediately above us.
Crossing the river on the ice, and leaving
it immediately, we commenced the ascent
of the mountain along the valley of a tribu-
tary stream. The people were unu.sually
silent ; for every man knew that our enter-
prise was hazardous, und the i.ssue doubtful.

The snow deepened r.ipidly, and it soon
became necessary to break a road. For
this service, u party of ten was formed,
mounted on t!io strongest horses ; each
man in succession opening the road on foot,
or on horseback, until himself and his horse
became fatigued, when he stepped aside ;
and, the remaining number passing ahead,
he took his station in the rear. Leaving
this stream, and pursuing a very direct
course, we passed over an intervening ridge
to the river we had left. On the way we
passed two low huts entirely covered with
snow, which might very easily have escaped
observation. A family was living in each ;
and the only trail I saw in the neighbor-
hood was from the door-hole to a nut-pine
tree near, which supplied them with food
and fuel. We found two similar huts on
the creek where we next arrived ; and,
travelling a little higher up, encamped on
its banki* in about four feet depth of snow.
Carson found near, an open hill side, where
the wind and the sun had melted the snow,
leaving exposed sufficient bunch grass for
the animals to-night.

The nut-pines were now giving way to
heavy timber, and there were some im-
mense pines on the bottom, around the roots
of which the sun had melted away the
snow ; and here we made our camp and
built hug« fires. To-day we had travelled
sixteen miles, and our elevation above the
sea was 6,760 feet.

February 3. — Turning our faces directly
towards the main chain, we ascended an
open hollow along a small tributary to the

river, which, according to the IndiaiiH, intuai
from a mountain to the aoutli. Th*< snow
was so deep in the hollow, that wo wur*
obliged to travel along the tttonp hill Mw,
und over spurs, where wind und sun hail in
places lessened the snow, and where the
grass, which ap])eared to be in good <piality
along the sides of the mountains, wan ex-
posed. V\'e o|icned our road in the same
way ns yesterday, but niado otdy hcvcn
mile:5 ; und encamped by soriin hih iiiga at
the foot of a high and steep hill, liy whicli
the hollow usccnded to annther banin in tin
moimtain. The little htriam below wan
entirely buried in snow. 'I'he 8j)ring.s wor<;
shaded by the boughs of u lofty cedar, which
here made its first appearance ; the unuuI
height was I'^O to 13U feet, uml one that
was measured near by was 6 feet in diam-
eter.

There being no grass exposed hero, the
horses were sent back to that which we had
seen a few miles below. We occupied the
remainder of the day in beating down a roiid
to the foot of the hill, a mile or two diHtunt :
the snow being beaten down when moist, in
the warm part of the day, und then hard
frozen at night, made a foundation that
would bear the weight of the animals the
next morning. During the day several In-
dians joined us on snow shoe-' Tiicso were
made of a circular hoop, about a foot in di-
ameter, the interior space being filled with
an open network of bark.

February 4. — I went ahead early with
two or three men, each with a led horse, to
break the road. We wore obliged to aban-
don the hollow entirely, and work along the
mountain side, which was very steep, and
the snow covered with an icy crust. We
cut a footing as we advanced, and trampled
a road through for the animals ; but occa-
sionally one plunged outside the trail, and
slided along the field to the bottom, a hun-
dred yards below. Late in the day we
reached another bench in the hollow, where,
in summer, the stream passed over a small
precipice. Here was a short distance of
dividing ground between the two ridges, and
beyond an open basin, some ten miles across,
whose bottom presented a field of snow. At
the further or western side rose the miildle
crest of the mountain, a dark-looking riiigc
of volcanic rock.

The summit line presented a range of
naked peaks, apparently destitute of snow
and vegetation ; but below, the face of the
whole country was covered with timber of
extraordinary size.

Towards a pass which the guide indicated
here, we attempted in the afternoon to force
a road ; but after a laborious plunging
through two or three hundred yards, our
best horses gave out, entirely refusing to

11814.

1844.

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

H' SHOW

WO wore
ill itiilof,
I) iiiid ill
WTV fht(
J ((iiulity
wuH ex-
o «unu'

HCVt'Il

liii^H lit
y wliicli
II ill til)

nw WIIH

Ks wori'
r, wliirli
u! usual
nu) tliut
ill (iiiiiii-

mako any fiirthor cfTurt ; imd, for tlin lim»',
we wtrn brmiKlit to ii htaiiil Tim uuiil*'
inrortiioil iiH tliiit WR wctv rntcriiitf tlio iltM-p
snow, and lii'r« licffiin llio difliciillii'it of tlii!
inouiilain ; and to Imii, iind alinoNt to all,
our iMitcrpriHfl nflt'ini'i! lio|)(do.sH, I n'tunipd
a xliort dihtanrn back, to tli«i hrnak in tlio
hollow, \vli»rc I met Mr. I'itzpairick.

'I'll*! caini) had hern all the day ocrupicd
in ondravonnn: to iiHccnd tlm hill, hut only tli«.>
liexl liorHPH had Hiu'cflcdfd ; I ho atiiinalN,
l^cnRrally, not liavini; Butllriont Mtren^lh to
bring thnn»tdvr>H up without tlio packn ;•
and all tlio lino of road hrtwcun thin ami
the Hprin((.s wuh utrowcd with ciiinp Btciics
and r(|uipa(;e, and liorHcs (louiidorin^ in
snow. I thernforn imiiH'diatcly ('n('anip('(l
on tlio (rrouiid with my own iiu'hm, which
was ill advance, and dir('(!l('d Mr. Filzpat-
rick to nicamp at tho HpriiifjN, uiid Hciid all
the aiiinialn, in char^n of 'I'ahcaii, with a
fltron^r fjuard, back to ihn |)Iace where they
had hcLMi paHtiired the ni^lit lieforu. Here
was a .small .spot of level ground, j)rolC(!t«!d
on one side by the mountain, and on the
other sheltered by a little ridpe of rock. It
was an open j^rovo of pinex, which assimi-
lateil m size to the frraiidiuir of the moun-
tain, beinsf fiecpieiilly six feet in diameter.

To-ni(;lit we had no shelter, hut we made
a largo fire around the trunk of one of the
huge nines : and cnvcrinfr the snow with
•mall houghs, on which we spread our blan-
kets, soon made ourselves comfortable. The
night was very bright and clear, though tlio
thermometer was only at lO". A strong
wind, which sprang up at sundown, made it
intensely cob) ; and this was one of the bit-
terest nights during the journey.

Two Indians joined our party hero ; and
one of them, an old man, immediately be-
gan to harangue us, saying that ourselves
and animals would perish in the snow ; and
that if we would go back, ho would show
us another and a better way across the
mountain. He spoke in a very loud voice,
and there was a singular repetition of
phrases and arrangement of word.s, which
rendered liis speech striking, and not un-
musical.

We had now begun to understand some
words, and, with the aid of signs, easily
comprehended the old man's simple ideas.
"Rock upon rock — rock upon rock — snow
upon snow — snow upon snow," said he ;
" even if you get over the snow, you will
not bo able to get d'^wn from the mountains."
He made us the sign of precipices, and
showed us how the feet of the horses would
Blip, and throw them off from the narrow
trails which led along their sides. Our
Chinook, who comprehended even more
readily than ourselves, and believed our
situation hopeless, covered his head with

I his blanket, and began to weep ami lament.
j" I wauled to nee ihc whilcn," haul Ii» ; •• |
came aw.iy from niv own pro|ilc f nee ihn
whites, and I wouldn't care to dm nmonK
lliem ; but hi'ri^"'--anil br looked around
into the cold night and gloorny forcHt, and,
drawing h\n blanket over Uin head, began
I again to lament.

I Seated around the tree, the fire illumina-
ting :lie rocks and tiie tall bolls of tin- |>i(ieii
round about, and the old Indian baraiii^uiii;j,
we presciiti'd a i;roiip of vei y seriiius facen.
Filiruiin/ .'». — The night bad been loo
cold lo sleep, and we were up very e.irly.
Our guide was standing by the fire with all
his finery on ; and seeing liiui shiver in ibn
cidd, 1 threw on his sboiihler.s one of my
lilanket.s. W'e missed him a few niiiiiileH
afterwards, and never saw him again. Ho
had deserted. His bad faith and treachery
j were in perfect keeping with the estimate
I of Indian cb.iiacler, which a long iiiter-
' course with this people had gradually forced
I upon iDV mind.

t N'l'bile a portion of the camp were ocou-
I pied in bringing up the baggage to this
j point, the remainder were busied in making
sli!(lges and snow shoes. 1 had determined
to explore the mountain ahe-vr], and the
sledges were to be used in trai ^porting the
baggage.

The mountains h«>ro consisted wholly of
a white micaceous granite.

The day was perfectly clear, and, while

the sun was in the sky, warm and plea.'-ant.

My observation, our latitude was 3H ' 4*2'

*i(J" ; and elevation, by the boiling jjoint,

7,400 feet.

February 0. — Accompanied by Mr. F'itz-
patriek, I set out to-day with a reconnoitring
jiarty. on snow shoes. We marched all in
single flic, trampling the snow as heavily as
wo coulu, Jrossing the open basin, in a
march of about ten miles we reached the
top of one of the peaks, to tho lel't of the
pass indicated by our guide. Far below us,
dimmed by the distance, was a large snow-
less valley, bounded on the western side, at
the distance of about a hundred miles, by a
low range of mountains, which Carson re-
cognised with dulight as the mountains bor-
dering the coast. " There," said he, " is
the little mountain — it is 15 years ago sincn
I saw it ; but I am just as sure as if I had
seen it yesterday." Between us, then, and
this low coast range, was the vaiiey of the
Sacramento ; and no one who had not ac-
companied us through the incidents of our
life for the last few months could realize
the delight with which at last we looked
down upon it. At the distance of apparently
30 miles beyond us were distinguished spots
of prairie ; and a dark line, which could be
traced with the glass, was imagined to bf

':"ti' ■

I ■; ■

.1:

CAI'T. FRKMONT'S NAIIRATIVK.

[1044

thn courio <»f iho 'ivor ; but w«) v%cri! fvi-
(loiitly ut a Krcut livi^lit iilinvu tlio vulley,
und uutwouii lilt iiiiil the |iliiiiiM Dxtniiduil
iiiiU'N III' MiKiwy lii'liU mill linikcii nilifru of
Iiiiiii-cuviirt'il iiiiiiiiitaiiiH.

It wan liitu ill ill)) ilay wlini wo turiiod
tusvunl.t tliu c!kiii|i ; uiul it ^rtsw rapiilly ciiUI
!ia it ilrow tnwitnltt iiiulit. Oiio ul' tint nicii
bcciiiiui rationed, •'iiid bin tout bo((aii to
frutJ/i , iiiid, liiiildiiii;^ u lire in tlio trunk iif
a dry old fcdur, Mr. Kitz|mtrick niiiiaiiiiul
Willi liiiii until liLs clotliuH could liu driod,
and III) wan ill a condition to como on, Al-
tera day'u iiiarcli of -JO iniluH, we ittra((ult>d
into camp, one aU«<r anolliur, at ni((bli'all ;
tbc K'*''^''''' 'lumber exccNHively fatigued,
only two of tbu parly buvini; ever travelled
on tmuw ulioesi before.

All our energiea woru now directed to
getting our animalu acroH8 tlio nuow ; and
It was buppoaed tb..t, after all tlio baggage
bad been drawn witit tbu sleiglnt over lliu
trail we bud made, it would bu sudiciontly
liard to bear our animals. At neveral [)lace»,
between tliis point and tbo ridgo, wo bad
diacovorod aotno grassy spots, wbero tbo
wind and sun bad dispersed tbo snow from
tlie sides of tbo liills, and tlieso were to form
resting places to support tbo unimals for a
nigbt in their passage across. On our way
across, wo bad set on tiro several broken
stumps, and dried trees, to mult boles in tbu
snow for tbo camps. Its general deptb was
5 feet ; but wo passed over places wborc it
was 20 feet deep, as shown by tbo trees.

With one parly drawing sleighs loaded
with baggage, I advanced to-day about four
miles along the trail, and encamped at the
first grassy spot, where we expected to
bring our horses. Mr. Filzpatrick, with
another party, remained behind, to form an
intermediate station between us and the ani-
mals.

February 8. — The night hap been ex-
tremely cold ; but perfectly still, and beau-
tifully clear. Defore the sun appeared this
morning, the thermometer was 3'~> below
zero ; 1° higher, when his rays struck the
lofty peaks ; and 0*^ when they reached our
camp.

Scen:5ry and weather, combined, must
render these mountains beautiful in summer ;
the pu;ity and deep-blue color of the sky
are singularly beautiful ; the days are sunny
and bright, and even warm in the noon
hours ; and if we could be free from the
many anxieties that oppress us, even now
we would be delighted here ; but our pro-
visions are getting fearfully scant. Sleighs
arrived with baggage about 10 o'clock ; and
leaving a portion of it here, we continued
on for a mile and a half, and encamped at
the foot of a long hill on this side of the
open bottom.

lifriiinr and (iiidey, wlin ^eattirdav loom
iiig bail biMMi HUiil to uneeiid a liigber peak,
got III, liiiiigry and fatigued. Tliey run-
tirnii'd what we bad already tierii. Two
other Mluigbs arrived in the aflcriiiiiih , and
the men biiiiig fatigued, I gave tliciii all te.'k
and sugar. Snow cIouiIm began to n>u in
the SSVV. ; and, upprelien«ive of a hicniii,
which would duHtioy our road, 1 iwii' the
people back to Mr. r'ily.patrifk, witli diroe-
lions to send for the aiiimuls in itie luoniiiig.
With mo remained Mr. I'reuit-*, .Mr. 'r.illtot,
and (/arson, with Jacob.

Klevation of the camp, by tbu boiling
point, is 7,Uv'0 feet.

Fihnioi 1/ 1). — During the night the woatli-
ur changed, the w'nd rising to a gale, and
eommeneing to miovv before ilayliglil ; be-
fore morning the trail was covered. NVe
ruiiiainud quiet in camp all day, in the course
of wliicli the weather improved. Four
sleighs arrived toward evening, with tho
budding of the men. W'e sulfur miicli from
the want of salt ; and all tbu men are be-
coming weak from iiisufTiciunt food.

Fchrunry 10. — Tapliii was sent back
with a few men to assist Mr. Filzpatrick ;
and continuing on with three sleighs carry-
ing a part of tbo baggage, wo had tho satis-
faction to encamp within two and a half
miles of the head of the liulluw, and at the
foot of the last mountain ridge. Hero two
large trees had been set on firu, and in the
holes, wheru tbo snow had been melted
away, we found a comfortable camp.

Tho wind kept the air filled with snow
during tho day ; the sky was very dark in
the southwest, though elsuwhere very clear.
The forest here has a noble appearance :
tho tall cedar is abundoit ; its greatest
height being 130 feet, aii' circumference
ao, three or four feet above the ground ;
and here I see for the first time the white
pine, of which there are some magnificent
trues. Hemlock spruce is among tho tim-
ber, occasionally as large as 8 feet in diam-
eter four feet above the ground ; l.ut, in as-
cending, it tapers rapidly to less than one
foot at the height of 80 feet. I have not
seen any higher than .30 feet, and the
slight upper part is frequently broken ofT by
the wind. The while spruce is frequent ;
and the red pine, (pinus Colorado of the
Mexicans,) which constitutes the beautiful
forest along the flanks of the Sierra Neva-
da to the northward, is here the principal
tree, not attaining a greater height than 140
feet, though with sometimes a diameter of
10. Most of these trees appeared to differ
slightly from those of the same kind on the
other side of the continent.

The elevation of the camp, by tho boiling
point, is 8,050 feet. We are now 1,000
feet above the level of the South Pass in

1841

<AI»T. FUKMONT'S NAUUVriVK.

113

iho l{iii*ky iiiouiiUiiiM ; itiul kIiII wn aro not '
•luiic ii«c<iiiiliii(;. Tliii top of II ilikt ritl)<i'
near wuh lutrn ot* miihw, iiml vury w*'ll i
upriiikluil with huiM'li ^ruiiH, Mutliciiitil to |iuh-
tiiru till) itttimulH two or ihri'n <luy* ; iiiiil
lliiN \v;iN to liu tli)'ir riiiiiii |H(iiit of HU|i|)ort.
'I'IiIh riili;«! iH i;<iiii|ionuil of ,1 ootii|iiii*t tra|),
itr biiM.ili, of a I'Dluiiiniir htiuctiiri.' ; ovor tlio
«iirf;i('<i uro Nciittiircil lar^t* hoiiMcrN of po-
rouN tnip. 'I'liu hilU iiio in iiciny |)liicija imi-
lirely uuvured with niii;iII fiu^mt'iitM of vol-
r-ikiiK^ rock.

l'utliii(( Oil our Mnow blioua, W(> Riiont thu
afternoon in uxplorin^ i ro.til iihisul. 'I'hn
ularo of llie onow, conilniii'il witli ^rcat fa-
11^110, hiiil rnndiituil many of th)i pioph* iiiiitr-
ly lilinil ; )nit wu uoro forttinato in haviiii;
Motiii; liliti^k nilk handkrrchittfn, which, worn
an veil.t, vory much roht'scd thfoyc,

FihriKin/ \\. — lli^h sviimI contiiiui-d, anil
our trail thitt morniii|[{ was nearly invi!«il)lo —
huro anil ther«! imiicatL'il hy a little riil^o of
nnow. Our Bituiition hocaiiio tin'Monio and
dreary, reipiiriiijf a htroiij^ exurciso of pa-
tiuiiD) an<l resolution.

Ill the ovenin^j 1 received a iiiesMayc from
Mr. l''il/,palrick, acipiainlini? ">•' with the
utter failure of hin attempt to (fct our iiiule.s
and horauH over thu 8iiow — the half-iiidden
trail had proved entirely too slii^ht to Nup-
port ihuiii, and they had broken throur;h,
and were plun({ing ahout or lyin^ half liurieii
in snow. He was occupied in endeavoring^
to (ict them bank to \m camp ; and in tiie
mean time sent to mo for fun her in.striic.
lions. I wrote to him to send the animals
immediately back to their old nasture.s ; and,
after having made mauls and Mhovtd:*, turn
in all the strength of his parly to open and
lieat a road throuf^h the snow, streii^rthenini.'
it with branches and boiijrhs of the pines.

Fvbruary 13. — We made mauls, and
worked hard at our end of the road all the
day. The wiiwi was high, but the sun bright,
and the snow thawing. We worked down
the face of the hill, to meet the people at
the other end. Towards sundown it began
to grow cold, and we slu)uldercd our mauls, .
and trudged back to camp. |

February 13. — We continued to labor on
the road ; and in the course of the day had
the satisfaction to see the people working
duwii ths face of the opposite hill, about
three miles distant. During the morning
we had the pleasure of a visit from Mr.
Fitzpatrick, with the information that all
was going on well. A party of Indians had
passed 011 snow shoes, who said they were
going to the western side of the mountain
after Ash. Thia was an indication that the
salmon were coming up the streams ; and
we could hardly restrain our impatience as
we thought of them, and worked with in-
creased vigor.

The meat train did not arrivn thiw cvoning,
and I gave (loday h'ave to kill our little dog,
( Tlaiiialh,) wlin-li he prepiireil m Indian
tii.^liion ; Hcorehing olf the hair, and wuhK-
iiig the fikin with itoap and niiow, and th<*n
nilting It up into lueceN, which were l.ijd
on the Miiow. Mhortlv aftiMwariU, the Hlei){||
HI rived with 11 .supply ol linrMii meat ; aiul
we had to-nit^lit an extraordinary dinner—
pea-Noiip, mule, and dog.

Fi'/iriiiirf/ 11. — The dividing ridge of the
Sierra in in hight iVoin iIiih eiKMiiipnient.
.Veeompanu'd by Mr. I'reiixx, I ascended to-
ilay the highest peak to the ri^lil ; from
which v\c had a beaut il'iil view tU' a iiiuiin-
tain lake ut our feet, about lifii;eti milen in
length, and so entirely Htirroundi'd by moiiii-
taiiifi that we could not diucover an outlet.
We had taken with un a ghiK.s ; but, though
we <!njoycd an exleinled view, the vaPey wan
half hidden in iniHt, im when wo had Meeii it
before. Snow could Ito diHtinguished on thu
higher |)art.>< of the coant inountaiim; east-
ward, an far an tlio eyo could extend, it
ranged over a •errible iiiaws of broken snowy
iiKnintaiiiM, fading olf blue in the diHtancu.
riio rock composing the Huniinit consiHts ul'
a very coarse, dark, volcanic congloinerntfl ;
the lower |iarts ajipeared to be of a slaty
structure. 'l"be highest trees were a few
.srattering cediirN and aspens. l''rom the
iinmediato foot of the ptnik. we were two
hours in .eaehing the summit, and one hour
and a (piarter in descending. The day had
been very bright, still, and clear, and suring
.seems to be advancing rapidly. VVliile
llio sun is in the sky, tlio snow melt • rapid-
ly, and gushing springs cover the face of
the mountain in all the exposed places ; but
their surface freezes instantly with the dis-
appearance of the sun.

I obtained to-night some observations ; and
the result from these, and others made din-
ing our stay, gives for the latitude 38*" 11'
.57", hmgitude 120" i26' 67", and rate of the
chronometer 25".82.

Fchrunr!/ IH. — Wo had succeeded in get-
ting our animals Hafely to the first gra.ssy
hill ; and this morning I started with Jacob
on a reconnoitring expedition beyond t!ie
mountain. Wo travelled along the crests of
narrow ridges, extending down from the
mountain in the direction of tbo valley, Irom
which the snow was fast melting awuy. On
the open spots was tolerably good grass ; and
I judged we should succeed in getting the
camp down by way of these. Tosvards sun-
down we discovered some icy spots in a deep
hollow ; and, descending the mountain, we
encamped on the head water of a little creek,
where at last the water found its way to tiie
Pacific.

The night was clear and very long. We
heard the cries of some wild animals, which

144

(•APT. KHKMONTM NAKRATIVK.

[Mil.

had tiroii iittrnrti'tl liy our IW, nnil ii tWk nr
jrroHi' |)ii-«ti'M over iliirinu Hu' iii((lit. Kvi'ti
tliOHo •'Ir.iiiixi' Hiiiinil'« limi Miiirirlliinu plf^aMari'
to ')iir Hi'tmcK ill tliiN ri'KJDii ol nilfiiro nml

(loMolntinil.

Wi! Ktiirfffl nijwiii t^arly in llio iiiorriiit^
Tho rr)*i>k i«ri|uiro<| n rc^^iiliir bri'iullh nf
ftWxit 'JO ti<<-r. iirul wn MiMti) tx'ifiin to liiMir thi>
rimliiMi; oi llif wafiT Ih'Iow thf irr siirliicc,
nvnr wlm-li wo trriv<>ll)')l to avoid tlut kikiw ;
a few inilcs Im'Iow wo hrokf tlinnij^li, wJuto
Uio wutor w«N Ri>vt<riil t«>)>t (|i|i, niiil liultod
to tnakr' II two niiil <lry our clotlii'H. NVi*
(*.ot)tiiiiii><l II tew niiloM t'lirtliiT, wiilkiiiK Inmiii;
very lulMirioiiH without hiiow mIioon.

1 wiiM now pcrtt'ctly Matixrtoil that wn had
•truck lht> Htr«'iun on which Mr. Sutter hv«d ;
ftnii, turning iihoiit, inndo a hnrd |niHh, niid
rotchi'd tlio ram|) at dark. Ht'rc we had tho

{leaMiiri' to tind all Iho mmainint; aniinalH,
7 in iiuinhor, Hafoly arrived at tho ^jraHMv
hill near tho camp; and hero, al«», we were
agreeahly HiirpriHod with tho Hi^ht of an
ADundanco ol' nalt. Some of the horno ((uard
had irone to a nei)(hlM)rint^ hut for pine muIm,
and rtiwcovered unexpectedly a hirge cake of
very white fino-|;rained Malt, which the Indi-
anH told them they had brought from tho
Other Hide of tho mountain ; they UMod it to
eat with their pine nutH, and readily Hold it
for po<xI«.

On the I9th, tho people wore occupied in
makini; a road and Drin^fing npthc hat^fpiire ;
and, on tho afternoon of tho next day, I' eh.
ruary '20, IStl, wo encamped with the ani-
mals and all the mttlrriel of tho camp, on the
summit of tho Pash in the dividint^ r'lAge,
1,000 miles by our travelled road from the
DalleH of tho Columbia.

Tho people, who had not yot been to thin
point, climbed tho neighboring peak to enjoy
a look at tho valley.

The temperature of boiling water gave for
tho elevation of the oncampmont 9,338 feet
above tho sea.

This wan '2,000 foot higher than tho South
Pass in tho Rocky mountains, and povrral
peaks in view rose several thousand (ect still
nigher. Thus, at tho extremity of the conti-
nent, and near tho coast, the phenomenon
was seen of a range of mountains still higher
than the great Rocky mountains themHelves.
This extraordinary fact accounts for tho
Great Basin, and shows that there mii^t be
a system of small lakes and rivers here scat-
tered over a flat country, and which tho ex-
tended and lofty range of the Sierra Nevada
prevents from escaping to the Pacific ocean.
Latitude 38" 44'; longitude 120° 28'.

Thus tho Pass in the Sierra Nevada,
which so well deserves its name of Snowy
mountain, is eleven degrees west and about
fcur degrees south of the South Pass.

February 21. — We now considered our-

wlve« virlorioua over Ihft mnuntnin; hnvini;
only the dnocent hitlom iii, mid th<> vulkiy
iiiLlrr our eye**, we felt Niron;' hii|ii> tint we
Hhoiild fiirre our way d)>wn Hut tlii« mim u
cn-n* in which the deori'nt ««■< /«// fin'iie,
S'ill deep lieliN of Know lay liftwei-ii, and
there wax a large intervening H|Hire ut rmigh-
liH>king aiiiiintainM, thrftiigli wliidi wi* hnil
yet to wi'iil our way <'arNon rniiHnl me
iIiIh morning with an early Hre, ami we wi're
all up long In'fore day. in onl<T to pa^-* the
Niiow lleliU JM'fore the huh hIiomM rctidi'r tho
rruHt Hofl. VVe enjoyed thiHniorniii;^ ti Mri>no
atHiinriHe, whicheveu here whs uiiu tiially glo-
rioiiH and lieaiitilul. Iminedialily alinM> tho
eiiHtern iiioiiiitiiiiii vvaN rejM'ited a rlmid-
roiined m.i"»H of purple range*, JMird'-red with
bright yellow gold ; the |M<akH nhot up into a
narrow line of crimHon cloud, aliove whish
tho air was filled with a greeninh orange ;
and over all wiim the Hingumr In'auty nf the
hliio nky. I'ansing along a ridge which
coinmaiuled the lake on our right, of which
we began to dixcover an outlet through a
cliaHni on the west, we panMed over alternat-
ing open ground and hanl-criiMted hiiow
fieldrt which Hiip|)orted the animaln, and en-
c,ain|)ed on the ridgo after a joiirr •' of six
iniles. The grass was In'tter tl' e had

yet seen, and wo were encampei lump

of trees twenty or thirty feet high, . ..niiling
white pine. With the exception of these
small clumpH, tho ridges wore l«iro; and,
whoro tho snow found tho Hiip[K»rt of tho
trees, the wind had blown it up into l>anks
ten or fifteen feet high. It required much
care to hunt out a practicable way, as tho
most open places frequently led to impassa*
ble banks.

We had hard and doubtful labor yet be-
fore us, as the snow appeared to lie heavier
where tho tin)l)cr began further down, with
few open spots. Ascendi;"" a height, we
traced out tlio best line wo eould discorer
for tho next day's march, and had at least
tho consolation to see that the mountain de-
scended rapidly. The day had l3een one of
April ; gusty, with a few occasional flakes of
snow ; which, in the afternoon, enveloped the
upper mountain in clouds. Wo watched
them anxiously, as now we dreaded a snow
storm. Shortly afterwards we heard the roll
of thunder, and, looking towards the valley,
found it all enveloped in a thunder-storm.
For us, as connected with the idea of sum-
mer, it had a singular charm ; and we
watched its progress with excited feelings
until nearly sunset, when tho sky cleared off
brightly, and we saw a shining line of water
directing its course towards another, a broad-
er and larger sheet. We knew that these
could be no other than the Sacramento and
the bay of San Francisco ; but, after our long
wandering in rugged mountains, where so

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f of the
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t' which
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mill on-

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1M4.]

CAI'T. KIIKMONT'M NAHIIATIVK.

!«•

frMni«n»lv w»» hml m«t with (li«ii|i|H)iiiiiii»tit4,
una wIkti' lh«« croo^ieiif i>t I'vcry tkIk" iIm-
pkyi'il Hitini' iinkiinwn litki' or river, wimm'p*

imt iilino«t iiiriii'l lo U'limo thiil wi* wi'rit nt
Mt lo •'<< i|i>> iiitii iliK |fi>iiiiil country of
which wi> IukI ln'iinl mo iiiiiny t/l>iwiiiK ili>-
acripliinK, itml ilri'iuli'il itL'tiiii to liiiil kdiiio
vAMt iiitiTior liikc, whoxii liiMi>r wuti'rx would
tirinir iix ilii<n|i|Nii!itm<>iit. On Ihi* Moiithcrii
Hhorc ol whiit ii|i|H>iiri*d to In< lhi> liny could
Im Imccil till* KJctttniinf linn when* cntori'd
iiiMtlicr liiri^i* Htrimin ; mid ii^iiiii th» liiiuim-
vi'iitiirii roso tip in our inimU.

CitrHoii hud cntcrcil Ihn vnll)>y mIoiii; tin-
Hoiitlicrn niiU* of llio liiiy, and riMiicnilMtrcil
iicrlt'cliy to have crcmxi'd tlio mouth ol ii very
mg<' Ntri'iini, which they hud liccti ohli^od
to riiti ; liiit the country then wum ho cn>
tiri'ly coveri'd with wiiler Iroin hiiow iind
nun. tint he hnd licen iihlit to form no cur*
rt'ct iiii|ir<>MNiori of wntercoiirMCM.

We hud the mitiHlnction to know tlint »t
ii'Hst there wore |m)o|iIo helow. Firi'« were
lit up in the viillpy juMt at ni(;lit, nppearini;
to Im^ ill iin.twer to oiirx ; nnd thcMc ttiKiiM ol
lite reiiewi'd, in Moine ineartiire, tho gaiety
ot the camp. They appeared mo near, that
wti indued them to he iimon^f tho timber of
«<iiue ol tlie nei)rhl)orin(r rid^uii ; hut, havin^f
llieiii ciiMHtantly in viow day al'tur day, and
iii^dit alter niirht, wo attorwardo found tliem
to he lircH that had liocn kindled by tho Indi-
iiii-i uinoiiif tho tuldri's, on tlio shoro of tho
liav. HI) mileii diHtant.

Ainoii}( tlio very few plantH that appeared
here, wur* tho common blue flax. To-night,
a tniile waH killed for f(M)d.

FihriKtnj 'J'J. — Our hreakfaHt was over
loujr heloro ilay. Wo took advanta((o of the
coolnesH of tho early morning to got over
tlio Biiow, which to-<lay occurred in very
(loop luinkfl amoni; the timber ; but wo
Koarclied out the coldoRt placoH,and tho anl-
niuls passed Hiiccorisfiilly with their loadH
llie luird cruMt. Now and then, the delay
of mukitig a road occanioned much labor
ami losH of time. In tho alter part of the
(lay, wo saw before us a liandHomo graBsy
rid^'o point ; and, making a dosporato puna
over a HIIOW held 10 lo 16 feet deep, we
iiappily succeeded in getting the camp
across ; and oneampod on tho ridge, after a
man-li of throe miloH. We had again the
prosjM'ct of a thunder-Btorm below, and to-
iii^'lii wo killed another mule — now our only
rcsniirco from starvation.

We satistied ourselves during the day
that the lake had an outlet between two
rau<;es on tho right ; and with this, the
creek on which I had encamped probably
effected a junction below. Between these,
we were descending.

Wo continued to enjoy the same delightful
weather ; the eky of the satMO beautiful blue,

and Hiich a iiun^et nnd nanrUo M on nnr

,\tliiiiic ciMi^t we ccHild ncarrely linagin*.
And here iimontf the niniuiininx, '111110 Ut<\
almve the xeu, we have the di-epliliii- Mky
and minnv climato of Hmyrna ami ralemio,
which a little map boforo me vhow* are tit
the iinme littitiide.

Tlieeli'Viilioii alM)\e llie Hen, Ity the lM)ilin|{
|Hiint. 14 H.fttIA leef.

F'-hninrif 'JU.— Thii* wax our moot dilliciilt
day ; we were forced ofV the riduen hy tho
(|iiaMlity of itnow uinoiii/ the tiinher, and
obliged to take to the inoiintiiin mdex, vvhern
occa-iioiially, rockM and u hoiitlicrn expoturo
iilliirded iiH a <'liiiiice to Mcrsiinlile along, lint
these were nteep, and xlip|iery with xiioW
and ice ; nnd the tough evergreenn of tho
moiintniii iiii|H*ded our way, tore our ^kinN,
and i>xliaiiHted our patience. Some of iia
hail the mislortiino to wear iiiiKiisMins with

Iiiirflirhi' KolcN, HO hiippery tliut we i-oiild not
leep our feet, and generally crawled acroaa
the Htiow beds. Axen and mauls were no*
cessary to-day, to inako a mad through tho
riiiow. (ioing ahead with CurNoii to ro*
connoitro tlin road, wo reached in the alter*
n-' < the river which made the outlit tif tho
liii~>'. CarHoii Hprang over, clear iicroHS a
placo where tho ntreain was coinpresspd
among rocks, but the finrllrrlir sole of my
mociissiii glanced from the icy ro(!k, and
precipitated me into the river. It was somo
tew hoconds before I could recover niysolf
in the current, and Carson, thinking me liurt,
jiim|)«>d in after mo, and wo both had an icy
hath. Wo tried to nearch a while lor my
gun, which had liooii lost in tho fall, hut tho
C(dd drove ui« out ; and making a largo tire
on tho bank, alter wo had partially dried
ourselvfls wo wont back to meet the camp.
Wo atlorwards found that tho gun had been
slung under tho ico which lined tho hanks
of tho creek.

Using our old plan of breaking the road
with alternate horses, wo reached tho creek
in the evening, and encamped on a dry open
place in tho ravine.

Another branch, which wo had followed,
here comes in on the left ; and from thia
point tho mountain wall, on which wo had
travelled to-day, faces lo the south along tho
right bank of tho river, where the huh ap-
pears to have molted the snow ; hut tho op*
posito ridge is entirely covered. Here, among
the pines, tho hill sido produces but little
grass — barely siiificient to keep lil'u in the
animals. We had the pleasure to lie ruined
upon this afternoon ; and grass was now our
greatest solicitude. Many of the men looked
badly ; and some this evening were giving
out.

February 24. — Wo rose at three in the
morning, for an astronomical observationi
and obtained for the place a latitude of 38"

146

CAPT. FitEiViONT'S NARRATIVE.

ri844.

46' 68"; longitude 120° 34' 20". The sky
was clear and pure, with a sharp wind
from the northeast, and the thermometer 2®
below tiie freezinjj point.

We continued down the soutli face of the
mountain ; our road leading over dry ground,
we were able to avoid the snow almost en-
tirely. In the CGiirse of the morning, we
struck a f( ot puth, which we were generally
able to keep ; and the ground was soft to
our animala' feet, being sandy or covered
with mould. Green grass began to make
its appearance, and occasionally wc passed
a hill scatteringly covered with it. The
character ■->( the forest continued the same ;
and, among the trees, the pine with sharp
leaves and very largo cones was abundant,
some of them being noble trees. We mea-
sured one that had 10 feet diameter, though
the liejght was rot more than 130 feet. All
along, the river was a roaring torrent, its
fall very great: and, descending with a
rapidity to which we had long been
strangers, to our gr^at pleasure oak trees
appeared on the ridge, and soon became very
frequent; on these I remarked unusually
great qu'.nttties of misletoe. Rushes began
to make their appearance ; and at a small
creel; where they were abundant, one of the
messes was left with the weakest horses,
while we continued on.

The opposite mountain side was very
sieep and continuous — unbroken by ravines.
and covered with pines and snow ; while on
the side we were travelling, innumerable
rivulets poured down from the ridge. Con-
tinuing on, we halted a moment at one of
these rivulets, to admire some beautiful ever-
green trees, resembling live oak, which
shaded the little stream. They were forty
to fifty feet high, and two in diameter, with
a uniform tufted top ; and the summer green
of their beautiful foliage, with the singing
birds, and the sweet summer wind which
was whirling about the dry oak leaves, nearly
intoxicated us with delight ; and we hurried
on, filled with excitement, to escape entirely
from the horrid region of inhospitable srow,
to the perpetual spring of the Sacramenio.

When we had travelkd about ten miles,
the valley opened a little to an oak and pine
bottom, through which ran rivulets closely
bordered with rushes, on which our half-
starved hcrses fell with avidity; and here
we mai^« our encampment. Here the roar-
ing toribi.i; has already become a river, and
we had descended to an elevation of 3,864
t?et.

Along our road to-day the rock was a
white granite, which appears to constitute
the upper part of the mountiiins on both the
eastern and western slopes ; while between,
Jbn central is a volcanic rock.

Another horse was killed to-night, for food.

February 26. — Believing that tlic diffi-
culties of the road were passed, and leaving
Mr. Fitzpatrick to follow slowly, as the con-
dition of the animals rpquired, I started
ahead this morning with a party of eight,
consisting (with myself) of Mr. I'reuss and
Mr. T.ilbot, Carson, Derosier, Towns, i'roue,
nnd Jacob. We took with us some of tliu
best animals, and my intention was to pro-
ceed as rapidly as possible to the house ot
Mr. Sutter, and return to meet the party
with a supply of provisions and fresh ani-
mals.

Continuing down the river, which pursued
r very direct westerly course through a niir-
ow valley, with only a very slight and nar-
row bottom land, we made twelve miles, and
encamped at bome old Indian huts, apparent-
ly a fishing place on the river, i he bottom
was covered with trees of deciduous foliagp,
and overgrown with vines and rushes. On
a bench of the hill near by, was a field of
fresh green grass, six inches long in some ol
the tufts which I had the curiosity to meas-
ure. The animals were driven here ; and I
spent part of the afternoon sitting on a large
rock among them, enjoying the pauseless ra-
pidity with which they luxuriated in the im-
accustomed food.

The forest was imposing to-daj in the
magnificence of the trees ; some of the
pines, bearing large conos, were 10 fe^n in
diameter ; cedars also abounded, and we
measured one 28j feet in circumference, four
feet from the ground. This noble tree seemed
here to be in its proper soil and climate.
We fo'md it on both sides of the Sierra, but
most abundant on the west.

February 26. — We continued to follow the
stream, the mountains on either Imml in-
creas ng in height as we descended, and shut-
ting up the river narrowly in precipicos,
along which we had great difficulty to jjret
our horses.

It rained heavily during the a.' . noon, and
we were forced off the river to the lieiirhts
above; whence we descended, at night-fiil',
the point of a spur between the river aiul a
fork of nearly equal size, cominjj in from th^
right. Here we saw, on the lower bills, tlio
first flowers in bloom., which occurred sml-
denly, and i'l considerable quantity ; or.n of
them a species of gilia.

The current in both streams (rattier lor-
rrnts than rivers) was broken by larije Imiil-
ders. It ■ 'as la^e, and the animals fatiiriiod :
and not succeeding to find a ford immediato-
ly, we encamped, although the hill si-lo af-
forded but a few stray bunches of grass, and
the horses, standing about in the rain, looked
very miserable.

February 27. — We succeeded in fordinj;
the stream, ard made a trail by which we
crossed the point of the opposite hill, which,

1)^44.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

i4ir

on the Houtliern exposure, was prettily cover-
ed with j^ret'ii prass, and we halted a mile from
our last ciicampmont. The r ver was only
about sixty feet wide, but rapid, and occa-
sionally deep, foaming among l)oulders, and
the water beautifully clear. Wo encamped
on the hill nlope, as there was no bottom
level, and the opposite ridge is continuous,
affording no streams.

Wo had with us a large kettle ; and a mule
l)cing killed here, his head was boiled in it
for several hours, and made a passable soup
for famished people.

Below, precipices on the river forced us to
the heights, which we ascended by a steep
spur 2,000 feet high. V.y favorite horse,
Proveau, had become very weak, and was
scarcely able to bring himself to the top.
Travolling here was good, except in crossing
the ravines, which were narrow, steep, and
frequent. We caught a glimpse of a deer,
the first animal we had seen ; but did not
succeed in approaching him. Proveau could
not keep up, and I left Tr.cob to bring him on,
being obliged to press t jrward with the par-
ty, as there was no grass in the forest. We
}irew very aiixious as the day advanced and
110 grass appeared, for the lives of our ani-
mals depended on finding it to-night. They
were in just such a condition that grass and
repose for the night enabled them to get on
tlie next day. Every hour we had been ex-
pecting to see open out before us the valley,
which, from the mountain above, seemed al-
most at our feet. A new and singular shrub,
which had made ils appearance since cross-
ing the mountain, was very frequent to-day.
It branched out near the ground, forming a
clump eight to ten feet hign, with pale-green
leaves of an oval form, and the body and
branches had a naked appearance, as if strip-
ped of the bark, which is very smooth and
iliin, of a chocolate color, contrasting well
with the pale green of the leaves. The day
was nearly gone ; we had made a hard day's
march, and found no grass. Towns became
light-headed, wandering off into the woods
without knowing where ht was going, and
.facob "u.-ought,him back.

Ne-".. i;;ght-fall we descended into the steep
ravine of a handsome creek thirty feet wide,
and 1 was engaged in getting the horses up
tiie opposite hill, when I heard a shout from
Carson, who had gone ahead a few hundred
yards — " Life yet," said he, as he came up,
' life yet ; I have found a hill side sprinkled
with grass enough for the night." We drove
along our horses, and encamped at the place
about dark, and there was just room enough
to make a place for shelter on the edge of the
stream. Three horses were lost to-day —
Proveau ; a fine young horse from the Co-
lumbia, belonging to Charles Towns ; and
another Indian horse which carried our cook-

ing utensils ; the two former gave out, and
the latff^r strayed oil' into the woods as we
reached the camp.

Fehruari/ 2i). — Wo lay shut up in the nar-
row ravine, and gave the animals a necessa-
ry day ; and men were sent back alter the
others. Derosior volunteered to bring up
Proveau, ti) whom ho knew I was greatly at-
tached, as he had been my favorite horse on
both expeditions. Carson and I climbed one
of the nearest mountains ; the forest land
still extended ahead, and the valley appeared
as far as ever. The pack horso was found
near the camp, but Derosier did not get in.

March 1. — Derosier did not get in during
the night, and leaving him to follow, as no
grass remained here, we continued on over
the uplands, crossing many small streams,
and camped again on the river, having made
6 miles. Here we found the hill side cover-
ed (although lightly) with fresh green grass ;
and from this time forward we found it al-
ways improving and abundant.

We made a pleasant camp on the river hill,
where were some beautiful specimens of the
chocolate-colored shrub, which were afoot in
diameter near the ground, and fifteen to twen-
ty feet high. The opposite ridge runs con-
tinuously along, unbroken by streams. We
are rapidly descending into the spring, and
we are leaving our snowy region far behind ;
everything is getting green ; butterflies are
swarming ; numerous bugs are creeping out,
wakened from their winter's sleep ; and the
forest flowers are coming into bloom. Among
those which appeared most numerously to-
day was dodecalheon denlattim.

We began to be uneasy at Derosier's ab-
sence, fearing he might have been bewilder-
ed in the woods. Cnarles Towns, who had
not yet recovered his mind, went to swim in
the river, as if it were summer, and the
stream placid, when it was a cold mountain
torrent foaming among rocks. We were
happy to see Derosier appear in the evening.
He came in, and, sitting down by the fire,
began to ♦ell us where he had been. He
imagined he had been gone several days, and
thought we were still at the camp where he
had lefi, us ; and we were pained to see that
his mind was deranged. It appeared thai .he
had been lost in the mountain, and hunger
and fatigue, joined to weakness of body, and
fear of perishing in the mountains, had
crazed him. The times were severe when
stout men lost their minds from extremity of
suffering — when horses died — and when
mules and horses, ready to die of starvation,
were killed for food. Yet there was no mur-
muring or hesitation.

A short distance below our encampment
the river mountains terminated in precipices,
and, after a fatiguing march of only a few
miles, we encamped on a bench where there

if<

J.'

' 1 ■!

it'

14»

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

ri844.

were springs and an abundance "\ tho fresh-
est pras-i. In the meantime, Mr. Preiiss
contmiied on down the rivtr, and, nnaware
that we had encamped so early in the day,
was lost. When night arrived, and he did
not como in, we l)Cgan to understand what
had happened to him ; but it was too late to
maiffi any search.

March 3. — We followed Mr. Preusb's trail
for a considerable distance along the river,
until we roiu-lied a place where he had de-
sct'uiled to the stream below and encamped.
Here we shouted and lired gims, but received
no answer ; and we concluded that he had
pushed on down the stream. I determined
to keep out from the river, along which it
was nearly impracticable to ?ravel with ani-
mals, until it aliould form a valley. At every
step the country improved in beauty ; the

Eincs were rapidly disappearii.fr, and oaks
Bcame tho principal trees of the forest.
Among these, the prevailing tree was the
evergreen oak (which, by way of distinction,
we shall call the live oak) ; and with these,
occurred frequently a new species of oak
bearing a long slender acorn, from an inch to
an inch and a half in length, which we now
began to see formed the principal vegetable
food of the inhabitants of this region. In a
short distance we crossed a little rivulet,
where were two old huts, and near by were
heaps of acorn hulls. The ground round
about was very rich, covered with an exube-
rant sward of grass ; and we sat down for a
while in the shade of the oaks, to let the ani-
mals feed. We repeated our shouts for Mr.
Preuss ; and this time we were gratified with
an answer. The voice grew rapidly nearer,
ascending from the river; but when we ex-
pected to see him emerge, it ceased entirely.
We had called up some straggling Indian —
the first we had met, although for two days
back we had seen tracks — who, mistaking
us for his fellows, had been only undeceived
on getting close up. It would have been
pleasant to witness his astonishment; he
would not have been more frightened had
some of the old mountain spirits they arc so
much afraid of suddenly appeared in his path.
Ignorant of the character of these people,
we had now an additional cause of uneasi-
ness in regard to Mr. Preuss ; he had no
arms with him, and we began to think his
chance doubtful. We followed on a trail,
still keeping out from the river, and descend-
ed to a very large ere 'k, dashing with great
velocity over a pre-eminently rocky bed and
among large boulders. The bed had sudden
breaks, formed by deep holes and ledires of
rock running across. Even here, it deserves
the name of Uncle creek, which we gave to it.
We succeeded in fording it, and toiled about
three thousand feet up the opposite hill. The
mountains now were getting sensibly lower;

but still there la no vftlley on the river, which
presents steep and locky banks; but here,
several miles from ti;e river, the country is
smooth and grassy; the forest has no under-
growth; and in tlie open valleys of rivulets,
or around spring heads, tho low groves of
live oak give the appearance of orchards in
un old cultivated country. Occasionally we
met deer, but had not the necessary time for
hunting. At one of these orchard prouiuls,
we encamp<>d about noon to make an ellbrt
for Mr. Preuss. One man took his way
along a spur leading into the river, in hope
to cross his trail : and another took our own
back. Both were volunteers ; and to the
successful man was promised a pair of pis-
tols — not as a reward, but as a toki'u of gra-
titude for a service which would free us all
from much anxiety.

We had among our few animals a horse
which was so much reduced, that, with trav-
elling, even the good grass could not save
him ; and, having nothing to cat, ho was
killed this afternoon. He was a good ani-
mal, and had made the journey round from
Fort Hall.

Dodecalheon (lenlatuin continued tho cha-
racteristic plant in flower ; and the miked-
looking shrub already mentioned continued
characteristic, beginning to put forth a small
white blossom. At evening the men re-
turned, having seen or heard nothing ol AJr.
Preuss ; and I determined to make a hard
push down the river the next morning, and
get ahead of him.

March 4. — We continued rapidly along on
a broad plainly-beaten trail, the mere tnivel-
ling and breathing the delightful air being a
positive enjoyment. Our road led along a
ridge inclining to the rivor, and tho air and
the open grounds were fragrant with (lower-
ing shrubs ; and in the course i/\ the morn-
ing we issued on an open spur, by which we
descended directly to the stream. Here the
river issues suddenly from the mountnin?,
which hitherto had hemmed it closely in
these now become softer, and change fonsi-
bly their character; and at this point com-
mences the most beautiful valley in whkh
we had ever travelled. We hurried to the
river, on which we noticed a small .';an>i
beach, to which Mr. Preuss would nnt iraljy
have gone. We found no trace of him, liiit.
instead, were recent tracks of bare-tooted
Indians, and little piles of muscle shells, and
old fires where they had roasted tiif^ fisii.
We travelled on over the river gromids,
which were undulating, and covert'd with
grass to the river brink. We halted to noon
a few miles beyond, always under the shade
of the evergreen oaks, which formed open
groves on the bottoms.

Continuing our road in the afternoon, we
ascended to the uplands, where the rivei

ri844.

river, which
; but here,
e country ia
IS no nnder-

ot' rivniefs,
w provt'H of
orchiirds in
isionally wk
ary time for
nl proiituls,
i<e nn elVort
:)k his way
ver, in hope
wk our own

anil to the
, pair of pis-
oiifMi of gra-
1 free us all

lals a horse
it, with trav-
j|(l not save
cat, ho was
a good ani-
' round from

led the rha-
[ the naked-
pd continued
forth a small
;he nion ro-
ithiiii^' of Mr.
nake a hard
Horning, and

lidly alonjT on
mere tnivel-
I air being a
led along a
1 the air and
with Hower-
f,\ the inorn-
by wbicii wg
n. Here the
e moniitiiin?,
t closely in
hango sensi-
s point corn-
ley in wliinli
urried to the
. small sund
iuld niitiirnliy
e of him, but.
)f bare-tooted
;le shells, and
5tod the fish.
iver groimdr,
coveri'il with
baited to noon
der the shade
formed open

afternoon, we
ere the rivei

1844.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

149

passes round a point of preat beauty, and
goes through very remarkable dalles, in cha-
racter resembling those of the Columbia.
Beyond, we again descended to the bottoms,
where we found an Indian village, consisting
of two or three huts ; we had come upon
them suddenly, and the people had evidently
just run off. The huts were low and Blight.,
made like beehives in a picture, five or six
feet high, and near each was a crate, formed
of interlaced branches and grass, in size and
shafKJ like a very large hogshead. Each of
these contained from six to nine bushels.
These were filled with the long acorns al-
ready mentioned, and in the huts were
several neatly made baskets, containing quan-
tities of the acorns roasted. They were
sweet and agreeably flavored, and we sup-
plied ourselves with about half a bushel,
leaving one of our shirts, a handkerchief, and
some smaller articles, in exchange. The
river again entered for a space among hills,
and we followed a trail leading across a bend
through a handsome hollow behind. Here,
while engaged in trying to circumvent a deer,
we discovered some Indians on a hill several
hundred yards ahead, and gave them a shout,
to which they responded by loud and rapid
talking and vehement gesticulation, but made
no stop, hurrying up the mountain as fast as
their legs could carry them. We passed
on, and again encamped in a grassy grove.

The absence of Mr. Preuss gave me great
concern ; and, for a large reward, Derosier
volunteered to go back on the trail. I di-
rected him to search along the river, travel-
ling upward for the space of a day and a
half, at which time I expected he would
meet Mr. Fitzpatrick, whom I requested to
aid in the search ; at all events, he was to
go no farther, but return to this camp, where
a cache, of provisions was made for him.

Continuing the next day down the river,
we discovered three squaws in a little bot-
tom, and surrounded them before they could
make their escape. They had large conical
baskets, which they were engaced in filling
with a small leafy plant (erndium cicutari-
um) just now beginning to bloom, and cov-
ering the ground like a sward of grass.
These did not make any lamentations, but
appeared very much impressed with our ap-
pearance, speaking to us only in a whisper,
and offering us smaller baskets of the plant,
which they signified to us was good to eat,
making signs also that it was to be cooked
by the fire. We drew out a little cold horse
meat, and the squaws made signs to us that
the men had gone out after deer, and that
we could have some by waiting till they
came in. We observed that the horses ate
with great avidity the herb which tiiey had
been gathering ; and here also, for the first
time, we saw Indians eat the common grass

— one of the squaws pulling several tufte,
and eating it with apparent relish. Seeing
our surprise, she pointed to the horses -, but
wo could not well understand what she
meant, except, perhaps, that what was good
for the one was good for the other.

We encamped in the evening on the shore
of the river, at a place where the associated
beauties of scenery made so strong an im-
pression on us that we have given it the
name of the Beautiful Camp. The undulat-
ing river shore was shaded with the live
oaKs, which formed a continuous grove over
the country, and the same grassy sward ex-
tended to the edge of the water ; and we
made our fires near some large granite
masses which were lying among the trees.
We had seen several of the acorn caches du-
ring the day ; and here there were two whioli
were very large, containing each, probably,
ten bushels. Towards evening we heard a
weak shout among the hills behind, and had
the pleasure to see Mr. Preuss descending
towards the camp. Like ourselves, he had
travelled to-day 25 miles, but had seen
nothing of Derosier. Knowing, on the day
he was lost, that I was determined to keep
the river as much as possible, he had not
thought it necessary to follow the trail very
closely, but walked on, right and left, cer-
tain to find it somewhere along the river,
searching places to obtain good views of the
country. 'jViwards sunset he climbed down
towards the river to look fcr the camp ; but,
fin''iM(r II,) trail, concluded that we were l)e-
hi ntd walked back until night came on,
wJn I: . 'ing very much fatigued, he coll'^ct
ed drill whuI and made a large fire among
the rocks. 'F'Ik next day it became more
serious, and he oncampcil again alone, think-
ing that we must ivc taken me other
course. To go back would have b* en mad-
ness in his weak and starved condiiion and
onward towards the valley was his mly
hope, always in expectation o( reaching it
soon. His principal mean r<f subsistence
were a few roots, which the hunters call
sweet onions, having very little taste, but a
good deal of nutriment, growing lerally
in rocky ground, and requirinL' od deal

of labor to get, as he had onl) ket knife.

Searching for these, he found a nest of big
ants, which he let run on his hand, and
stripped them off" in his mouth ; these had an
agreeable acid taste. One of his greatest
privations was the want of tobarco ; and a
pleasant smoke at evening woidd have been
a relief which only a voyageur could appre-
ciate. He tried the dried leaves of the live
oak, knowing that those of other oaks were
sometimes tised as a substitute; but these
were too thick, and would not do. On the
4th he made seven or eight miles, walking
slowly along the river, avoiding as much M

11'

■u

lao

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1844.

possible to climb the i>iilf«. In little pools ho
caught Hoine of the smallpst kind of fwps,
which he swallowed, not bo much in the
gratification of hunper, as in the hope of ob-
taining some stipnjjth. Scattered along the
river wore old (if j-p'acen, where the Indians
had roa.ied miu*clt's and acorns ; but though
he searched diligently, he did not there suc-
ceed in finding cither. Flo had collected
fire wood for the nin^ht, when he heard at
some distance from the river the barking of
what he thought were two dogs, and walked
in that direction as quickly as ho was able,
hoping to find there some Indian hut, but
met on y two wolves ; aiul, in his disappoint-
ment, tne gloom of the forest was doubled.

Travelling the next day feebly down the
ri\er, he found five or six Indians at the huts
of which we have spoken ; some were paint-
ing themselves black, and others roasting
acorns. Being only one man, they did not
run off, but received him kindly, and gave
hira a welcome supply of roasted acorns.
He gave them his pocket knife in return,
and stretched out his hand to one of the In-
dians, who did not appear to comprehend the
motion, but jumped back, is if he thought he
was about to lay hold of liim. They seemed
afraid of him, not certain as to what he
was.

Travelling on, he came to the place where
we had found the squaws. Here lie found
our fire still burning, and the tracks of the
horses. The sight gave him sudden hope
and courage ; and, following as fast as ne
could, joined us at evening.

March 6. — We continued on our ro*
through the same surpassingly bea-. .ul
country, entirely unequalled for the pastur-
age of stock by anything we had ever seen.
Our horses had now become so strong that
they were abie to carry us, and we travelled
rapidly — over four miles a" hour ; four of ns
riding every alternate hour. Every few
huudred yards we came upon a little band of
deer ; but we were too eager to reach the
settlement, wftich we momentarily expected
to discover, to halt for any other than a pass-
ing shot. In a few hours we reached a large
fork, the northern branch of the river, and
equal in size to that which we had descend-
ed. Together they formed a beautiful
stream, 60 to 100 yards wid ?■ ; which at first,
igPorant of the nature of the country through
which that river ran, we took to bo the Sa-
eramento.

We continued down the right bank of the
river, travelling for a while over a wooded
upland, where wo had the delight to discover
tracks of cattle. To the southwest was visi-
ble a black column of smoke, which we had
frequently noticed in descending, arising
fipom the fires we had seen from tho top of
the Sierra. From the upland we descended

into broad groves on the river, consistina of
the evergreen, and a new species of while
oak with a large tufted top, and three to six
feet in diameter. Among these was no
brushwood ; and tlie grassy surface gave to
it the appearance of parks in an old settled
country. Following tiio tracks of th- horses
and cattle in search of p iple, we discovered
a small village of Indians. Home of tliese
had on shirts of civilized matiufacturo, but
were otherwise naked, and we could under-
stand nothing from them ; they appeared en-
tirely astonislied at seeing us.

We made an acorn meal at nonn, and
hurried on ; the valley being gay with flow-
ers, and some of the banks being "hsojntoiy
go'.dei' with the Califouiian poppy (fsrh-
scholtzia croo'a). Here the grass was smooth
a"d green, and the groves very open ; the
large oaks throwing a broad shade among
sunny spots. Shortly afterwards we {^.ive a
shout at the appearance on a little bluff of a
neatly built adobe house with glass win-
dows. Wo rode up, but, to our disappoint-
ment, found only Indians. There was no
appearance of cultivation, and we could see
no cattle, and we supposed the place had
been abandoned. We now pressed on more
eagerly than ever ; the river swept round in
a large bend to the right ; the hills lowered
down entirely ; and, gradually entering a
broad valley, we came unexpectedly into a
large Indian village, where the people look-
ed clean, and wore cotton shirts anu various
other articles of dress. They immediately
crowded around us, and wo had the inex-
pressible delight to find one who spoke a lit-
tle indiflerent Spanish, but who at first con-
founded us by saying there vere no whites
in the country ; but just then i well-dressed
Indian came up, and made his salutations in
very well spoken Spanish. In answer to
our inquiries, he inform?d U3 that we were
upon the R^' dc lis Ameticanos (the river of
the Americitn"), and that it joined the Sa-
cramento river about 10 miles below. Never
did a name sound more sweetly ! We felt
ourselves among our countrymen ; for the
name of American, in these diistant parts, is
applied to the citizens of the United States.
To our eager inquirioc, he answered, " I am
a vaquero (cow herd) in the service of Capt.
Sutter, and the people of this ranchcriu
work for him." Our evident satisfaction
made him unmunicative ; and he went on
to say that Capt. Sutter was a very rich
man, and always glad to see his country
people. We asked for his house. He an-
swered, that it was just over the hill before
us ; and ofiered, if we would wait a moment,
to take his horse and conduct us to it. We
readily accepted his civil offer. In a short
distance we came in sight of the fort ; and,
passing on the way the house of a settler on

1844.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

Itl

the opposite side (a Mr. Sinclair), we forded
the river ; and in a few iniies were met a
short ilifitanco from the fort by Capt. Butter
himself. He gave us a most frank and cor-
dial reception — conducted us immediately to
his residence — and under his hospitable roof
wo had a night of rest, enjoyment, and re-
freshment, whicii none but ourselves could
appreciate. But the party left in the moun-
tains with Mr. Fitzpatrick were to be at-
tended to; and the next morning, supplied
with fresh horses and provisions, I hurriod
oil" to meet them. On the second day W9
met, a few miles below the forks of the R\o
(le los A mericanos ; and a more forlorn and
pitiable s\^l,t thai, they presented, cannot
well be im gined. They were all on foot —
each maii, weak and emaciated, leading a
horse or mule as weak and emaciated as
themselves. They had experienced great
ditHculty in debcending the mountains, made
i^lippery by rains and melting snows, and
many horses fell over precipices, and were
killed ; and with some were lost the packs
tJiov carried, .imong these, was a mule
wiili the plants which we had collected since
leaving Fort Hall, along a line of 2,000
miles travel. Out of sixty-seven horses and
mules with which we commenced crossing
the Sierra, only thirty-three reached the val-
ley of the Sacramento, and they only in a
condition to be led along. Mr. Fitzpatrick
and his party, travelling more slowly, had
Ijoen able to make some little exertion at
hunting, and had killed a few deer. The
scanty supply was a great relief to them ;
loT sevr>rai had be.'^n made sick by the strange
anci unwholesome food which the preserva-
tion of life compelled them to use. We
stopped and encamped as soon as we met ;
and a repast of good beef, excellent bread,
and delicious salmon, which I had brought
nlong, were their first relief from the sufrer-
'm^;a of the Sierra, and their first intro-
duction to the luxuries of the Sacramento.
It required all our philosophy and forbear-
arice to prevent plenty from becoming as
hurtful to us now, as scarcity had been be-
fore.

The next day, March 8th, we encamped
at the junction of the two rivers, the Sacra-
mento and Americanos ; and thus found the
whole party in the beautiful valley of the
Sacramento. It was a convenient place for
the camp ; and, among other things, was
witliiu reach of the wood necessarj' to make
the pack saddles, which we shouldf need on
onr long journey home, from which we were
farther Histant now than we were four months
before, when from the Dalles of the Colum-
bia we so cheerfully took up the homeward
line of march.

Captain Sutter emigrated to this country
from the western part of Missouri in 1838-

1839, and formed the first settlement in the
valley, on a large grant of land which he olv
tained from the Alexican Government. He
had, at first, some trouble with the Indians;
but, by the occasional exercise of well-timed
authority, he has su' '-oeded in converting
them into a peaceable and industrious peo-
ple. The ditches around his extensive
wheat fields; the making of the sun-dried
bricks, of which his fort is constructed ; the
ploughing, harrowing, and other agricultural
operations, are entirely the work of these
Indians, for which they receive a very mo-
derate compensation — principally in shirts,
blankets, and other articles of clothing. In
the same manner, on application to the chief
of a village, he readily obtains as many boys
and girls as ho has any use for. There
were at this time a number of girls at the
fort, in training for a future woollen factory;
but they were now all busily engaged in
constantly watering the gardens, which the
unfavorable dryness of the season rendered
necessary. The occasional dryness of some
seasons, I understood to be the only com-
plaint of the settlers in this fertile valley, as
It sometimes renders the crops uncertain.
Mr. Sutter was about making arrangements
to irrigate his lands by means of the Rio de
los Americanos. He had this year sown,
and altogether by Indian labor, tliree hun-
dred fanegas of wheat.

A few years since, the neighboring Rus-
sian establishment of Ross, being about to
withdraw from the country, sold to him a
large number of stock, with agricultural
and other stores, with a number of pieces
of artillery and other munitions of war ; for
these, a regular yearly payment is made in
grain.

The fort is a quadrangular adobe struc-
ture, mounting twelve piece? of artillery
(two of them brass), and capable of admit-
ting a garrison of a thousand men ; this, at
present, consists of forty Lidianj, in uniform
— one of whom was always found on duty
at the gate. As might naturally be expect-
ed, the pieces aie not in very good order.
The whites in the employment of Capt. Sut-
ter, American, French and German, amount,
perhaps, to thirty men. The inner wall is
formed into buildings, comprising the com-
mon quarters, with blacksmith and «)th( r
workshops ; the dwelling house, with a lar^v^
distillery house, and other buildings, occu-
pying more the centre of the area.

It is built upon a pond-like stream, at
times a running creek communicating with
the Rio de los Americanos, which enters the
Sacramento about two miles below. The
latter is here a noble river, about three hun-
dred yard.s broad, deep and tranquil, with
several fathoms of water in the channel, and
its banks continuously timbered. There

II!!

■I 'IV

•^M.

152

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1844

were two vi'hhpIh belonginp to dipt. Sutter
at anchor nonr tlii> landing — one a large
two-mast 0(1 ligliter, ami iho othor a Hchoo-
ncr, which wan nhortly to proceed on a
voyage to Fort Vancouver for a cargo of
goodn.

Sinro his arrival, several other persons,
principally AtncricanH, have estiibliHhed
themselves in the valley. Mr. Sinclair, from
whom I experienced much kindness during
my stay, is HOttled a few miles distant, on the
Rio do los Americanos. Mr. Coudrois, a
gentleman from (iiermany, has established
himself on Feather river, and is associated
with Captain Sutter in agricultural pur-
suits. Amoncr other improvements, they are
about to introduce the cultivation of rape
seed (brasxira rapus), which there is every
reason to believe is admirably adapted to the
climate and soil. The lowest average pro-
duce of wheat, as far as wo can at present
know, is thirty-five fanegas for one sown ;
but, as an instance of its fertility, it may be
mentioned that Seiior Valejo obtained, on a
piece of ground where sheep iiad l)oen pas-
tured, 800 fanegas for eight sown. The
produce being different in various places, a
very correct idea cannot be formed.

An impetus was given to the active little
population by our arrival, as we were in
want of everything. Mules, horses, and
cattle, were to be collected ; the liorse mill
was at work day and night, to make suffi-
cient flour; the blacksmith's shop was put in
requisition for horso shoes and bridle bits ;
and pack-saddles, ropes, and bridles, and all
the other little equipments of the camp, weie
again to be provided.

The delay thus occasioned was one of re-
pose and enjoyment, which our situation re-
quired, and, anxious as we were t« re-
sume our homeward journey, was regretted
by no one. In the meantime, I had the plea-
sure to meet with Mr. Chiles, who was re-
siding at a farm on the other side of the
river Sacramento, while engaged in the se-
lection of a place for f settlement, for which
he had received the necessary grant of land
from the Mexican Government.

It will be remembered that we had parted
near the frontier of the States, and that he
had subsequently descended the valley of
Lewis's fork, with a party of ten or twelve
men, with the intention of crossing the in-
termediate mountains to t!ie waters of the
bay of San Francisco. In the execution of
this design, and aided by subsequent infor-
mation, he left the Columbia at the mouth
of Malheur river ; and making his way to
the head waters of the Sacramento with a
part of his company, travelled down that
river to the settlements of Nueva Helvetia.
The other party, to whom he had committed
bia wagons, and mill irons and saws, took a

course further to the south, and the wagnni
and their contents were lovt

On the 22(1 we made a preparatory move,
and encamped near the settlement of Mr.
Sinclair, on the led bank of the Rio de los
Americanos. I had discharged five of the

a; Neal, the blacksmith (an excelleij
man, and an unmarried man. who hac
done Ills duty faithfully, and had been of
very great service to me), desired to remain,
as strong inducements were offered here to
mechanics. Although at considerable in-
convenience to myself, his pood conduct in-
duced me to comply with liis reijuoKt; and
I obtained for him, from Captain Sutter, a

I)resent compensation of two dollars iinil a
lalf per diem, with a promise that it should
be increased to five, if he proved as good a
workman as had been represented. lie was
more particularly an agricultural blacksmith.
The other men were discharged with their
own consent.

While we remained at this place. Den..
sier, one of our best men, whoso steady
good conduct had won my regard, wandered
off from the camp, and never returned to it
again ; nor has he since been heard of.

March 24. — Wo resumed our journey
with an ample stock of provisions and a
large cavalcade of animals, consisting of
130 horses and mules, and about thirty head
of cattle, five of which were inilcii cows.
Mr. Sutter furnished us also with an Indian
boy, who had been trained as a vaquero, and
who would be serviceable in managing our
cavalcade, great part of which wore nearly
as wild as bulfalo; and who was, besides,
very anxious to go along with ua. On*- di-
rect course home was east ; but the Sierra
would force us south, above five hundred
miles of travelling, to a pass at the head ol
the San Joaquin river. This pass, reporteo
to be good, was discovered by Mr. Joseph
Walker, of whom I have already spoken,
and whose name it might therefore appro-
priately bear. To reach it, our course lay
along the valley of the San Joaquin— tiie
river on our right, and the lofty wall of the
Impassable Sierra on the left. From that
pass we were to move southeastwardly,
having the Sierra then on the right, una
reach the " Spanish trail" deviously traced
from one watering place to another, wliicli
constituted the route of the caravans from
Puebla de Ins Angeles, near the coast of the
Pacific, to Sanla Fi of New Mexico. From
the pass to this trail was 160 miles. Fol-
lowing that trail through a desert, relieved
by some fertile plains indicated by the re-
currence of the term veffas, until it turned
to the right to cross the Colorado, our course
would be northeast until we regained the
latitude we had lost in arriving at the Eutak
lake, and thence to the Rocky mountains at

[1844.

:l>o wagoni

tory move,
ptit of Mr.
Ilio (le lo8
five of the
II oxcoIIpi t
n. wlio har
11(1 hopii of
1 to rninain,
rod liorp to
idomblo iii-
coiidiirt ill-
:'(mr'st ; niid
ill Sutter, a
>lliirs 1)11(1 a
lat it should
(1 aa {I'Hxl a
d. Ho was
blarkHinilli.
1 with their

place, Dero-

[lOHO steady
■d, wandered
^turned to it
'ard of.
)ur journey
isions and a
consistinp of
lUhirty head
inilcli cows,
til an Indian
raqiiero, and

anajrinp oui"
were nearly
vas, besides,
US. On-- di-
it the Sierra
five hundred
: the head ot
lass, reportec

Mr. Joseph
?ady spoken,
refore appro-
r course lay
Joaquin— the
,y wall of the
From that
theastwardly,
le right, iino
iously traced
lotlier, which
aravans from

coast of the
exico. From

miles. Fol-

sert, relieved
icd by the re-
ntil it turned
lo, our course
regained the
; at the Eutah

mountains at

1844.]

CAPT, FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

the head of the Arkaniiag. This courae of
travellin(r, forced upon uh by the structuro
of the country, would occupy a computed
dJHtanco of two thouHand miles before wu
reached the head of the Arkansas ; not a
settlement to be seen upon it ; and the
names of places alonj; it, all hein;^ Spanish
or Indian, indicated that it had been but lit-
tle trod by American feet. Though long,
and not free from hardships, this route pre-
Bcnted some points of attraction, in tracing
the Sierra Nevada — turning the Grfiat Basin,
perhaps crossing its rim on the south — com-
pletely solving the problem of any river, ex-
cept the Colorado, from the Rocky moun-
tains on that part of our continent — and
seeing the Boutncrn exiremity of the Groat
Salt hike, of which the northern part had
been examined the year before.

Taking leave of Mr. Sutter, who, with
several gentlemen, accompanied us a few
miles on our way, we travelled about eight-
een miles, and encamped on the Rio de Ida
Cosumnrs, a stream receiving ' ■ name from
the Indians who live in its valley. Our road
was through a level country, admirably
Nuited to cultivation, and covered with
groves of oak trees, principally the ever-
^rreen oak, and a large oak already men-
tioned, in form like those of the white oak.
The weather, which here, at this season,
can easily be changed from the summer heat
of the valley to the frosty mornings and
bright days nearer the mountains, conti-
nued delightful for travellers, but unfavora-
t)le to the agriculturists, whose crops of
wheat began to wear a yellow tinge from
want of rain.

March 25. — We travelled for 28 miles
over the same delightful country as yester-
day, and halted in a beautiful bottom at the
ford of the K io de los Mukelemnes, receiving
its name from another Indian tribe living on
the river. The bottoms on the stream are
broad, rich, and extremely fertile ; and the
uplands are shaded with oak groves. A
«howy lupinr/s, of extraordinary beauty,
growing four to five feet in height, and co-
vered with spikes in bloom, adorned the
banks of the river, and filled the air with a
light and grateful perfume.

On the 26th we halted at the Arroyo de
las Calaveras (Skull creek), a tributary to
the San Joaquin — the previous two streams
entering the bay between the San Joaquin
and Sacramento rivers. This place is beau-
tiful, with open groves of oak, and a grassy
sward beneath, with many plants in bloom ;
some varieties of which seem to love the
shade of the trees, and grow there in close
small fields. Near the river, ancl replacing
the grass, are great quantities of ammole
(soap plant), the leaves of which ar« used in
California for making, among other things,

mats for saddle cloths. A vine with a small
white flower (mehlhria!) called here la
yerha hucmi, and which, from its iihimduncc,
gives name to an islani' and town iii the bay,
was t()-(hiy very fre(|uoiit on our nuul — some-
times running on the ground or climbing the
trees.

March 27. — To-day wo travelled steadily
and rapidly up the valley; for, vvilli our wild
animals, any other gait was iin|)OHsihle, and
making about five miles an hour. During
the earlier part of the day, our ride had been
over a very level prairie, or rattier a succes-
sion of long stretclies of prairie, separated by
lines and groves of oak timber, growing along
dry gullies, which arc filled with water in
seasons of rain ; and, perhaps, also, by the
melting snows. Over much of this extent,
the vegetation was sparse ; the surface 8how«
ing plainly the action of water, which, in the
season of flood, the Joaquin spreads over the
valley. About 1 o'clock we came again
among innumerable flowers ; and a few
miles further, fields of the beautiful blue-
flowering lupine, which seems to love the
neighborhood of water, indicated that we
were approaching a stream. Wo here found
this beaiittftil slrub in thickets, some of
them being 1*^ feet in height. Occasionally
three or four plants were clustered together,
forming a grand bouquet, about 90 feet in
circumlerencd, and 10 feet high ; the whole
summit covered vith spikes of flowers, the
perfume of which is very sweet and grateful,
A lover of natural beauty can imagine with
what pleasure we rode among these flower-
ing groves, which filled the air with a light
and delicate fragrance. We continued our
road for about half a mile, interspersed
through an open grove of live oaks, which,
in form, were the most symmetrical and
beautiful we had yet seen in this country.
The ends of their branches rested on the
ground, forming somewhat more than a half
sphere of very full and regular figure, with
leaves apparently smaller than usual.

The Californian poppy, of a rich orange
color, was numerous to-day. Elk and several
oands of antelope made their appearance.

Our road was now one continued enjoy-
ment ; and it was pleasant, riding among this
assemblage of green pastures with varied
flowers and scattered groves, and out of th6
warm green spring, to look at the rocky and
snowy peaks where lately we had suffered
so much. Emerging from the timber, we
came suddenly upon the Stanislaus river,
where we hoped to find a ford, but the stream
was flowing by, dark and deep, swollen bv
the mountain snows ; its general breadth
was about 60 yards.

We travelled about five miles up the river,
and encamped without being able to find a
ford. Here we made a large coral, in order

'Si^

CAPT. FRKMONT'S NAIIRATIVK.

1 1844.

to bo able to catclj a nufflcipiU riuinlH>r or
oil" wild aniinalN to relieve thoMO previouHly
packed.

Under the nliado of the oaku, alontf the
river, I noticed irmliiim cicutariiim in bloom,
eiffht or fPM irichen hi((h. Thin i«* the pliint
which we hud Mcen the HquawH (ra'heriiiK on
the Rio de Ioh AmcricanoH. Hy the inhahit-
anti* of tiic valley, it in highly enteemcd for
fatfeniiiK cuttle, which apfwar to bo very
fond of It. Hero, where the «oil Ite^inH to
be Handy, it supplies to a conHideruble extent
the w ant of prnHH.

DeHJrouH, 119 far n« poBoible, without delay,
to include in our examination the San Joa-
quin river, I returned this morning down the
StaniHJaun for 17 miles, and again encam|)ed
without having found a fording place. Alter
following it for 8 miles further the next
morning, and finding ourselveH in the vicinity
of the San Joaquin, encamped in a hand-
Bome oak grove, and, several cattle bemg
killed, we ferried over our baggage in their
skins. Here our Indian boy, who probably
had not much idea of where ho was going,
and began to be alarmed at the many streams
which we were rapidly nutting between him
and the village, desurtea.

Thirteen head of cattle took a sudden
fright, while we were driving them across
the river, and galloped off. I remained a
day in the endeavor to recover them ; but,
finding they had taken the trail back to the
fort, let them go without further effort.
Here we had several days of warm and plea-
sant rain, which doubtless saved the crops
below.

On the 1st of April, we made 10 miles
across a prairie without timl)er, when we
were stopped again by another large river,
which is called the Rio de la Merced (river
of our Lady of Mercy). Here the country
bad lost its character of extreme fertility, the
soil having become more sandy and light ;
but, for several days past, 'ts beauty had been
increased by the additional c.v nation of ani-
mal life ; and now, it is crowded with bands
of elk and wild horses ; and along the rivers
are frequent fresh tracks of grizzly bear,
which are unusually numerous in this coun-
try.

Our route had been along the timber of the
San Joaquin, generally about 8 miles distant,
over a high prairie.

In one of the bands of elk seen to-day,
there were about 200 ; but the larger bands,
both of these and wild horses, are generally
found on the other side of the river, which,
for that reason, I avoided crossing. I had
been informed below, that the droves of wild
horses were almost invariably found on the
western bank of the river ; and the danger
of losing our animals among them, together
with the wish of adding to our reconnois-

Nnnro the numeroun Ntr. amn which run down
from the Sierra, decided me to travel up tho
oaMtern Imnk.

Ajirit '2. — Tho day wan orrupicd in build-
ing a boat, and ferrying our baggage acroM
tho river; and wo encam|M<d on the Itnnk.
A large tinhing eagle, with white head and
tail, was slowly sailing along, fooking uft(>r
salmon ; un<l there were some pri>tty birds in
the timber, with partridges, ducks, and gopw
innumerable in the neighborhoo«l. VV'o Wi-rc
struck with tho tauienPHs of the latter bird at
Helvetia, scattered about in flocks near the
wheat fields, and eating grass on the prairie ;
a horseman would rido by within 30 yards,
without disturbing them.

April .3. — To-day wo touched severii!
times tho Han Joaquin river — here a fine-
looking tnmquil stream, with a slight cur-
rent, and apparently deep. It resembled the
Missouri in color, with occasional p.intsnf
white sand ; and its banks, where stoop,
were a kind of sandy clay ; its average width
appeared to be about eighty yards. In the
Iwttoins are freouent ponds, where our ap-
proach disturl)ed multitudes of wild towl,
principally geese. Skirting along the tim-
i)er, wo frecjuently started elk ; and largo
bands were seen diuring tho day, with ante-
lope and wild horses. The low country and
the timber rendered it difficult to keep the
main line of the river; and thi« evening wc
encamped on a tributary stream, about live
miles from its mouth. On the prairie border-
ing ■ San Joaquin bottoms, there occurred
during the day but little grass, and in its
place was a sparse and dwarf growth of
plants ; the soil being sandy, with small bare
places and hillocks, reminded mo much of
the Platte bottoms ; but, on approaching tho
timber, we found a more luxuriant vegeta-
tion ; and at our camp was an abundunco of
grass and pea vines.

The foliage of the oak is getting darker;
and everything, except that the weather is a
little cool, shows that spring is rapidly ad-
vancing ; and to-day wo had quite a summer
rain.

April 4 — Commenced to rain at daylight,
but cleared off brightly at sunrise. We fer-
ried the river without any difficulty, and con-
tinued up the San Joaquin. Elk were run-
ning in bands over the prairie and in the
skirt of the timber. We reached the river
again at the mouth of a large slough, which
we were unable to ford, and made a circuit
of several miles aroun''.. Here the country
appears very flat; oak trees hav^ entirely
disappeared, and are replaced by a large
willow, nearly equal to it in size. The
river is about a hundred yards in breadth,
branching into sloughs, and interspersed
with islands. At this time it appears sufG-
ciently deep for a small steamer, but its na*

were

of fr<

1844.1

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

!A6

11844.

nn down
l lip tho

in biiilil-
^c ttcnmn
hn Imnk.
Iicad ami
log uftt-r
y birdH in
md K('<'w

Wo WlTt'

tor l)ir(l III

1 iiciir th»'

10 prairie ;

30 ynrds,

d Hpvenii
ro a tine-
«Up[ht ciir-
'inbitMl till'
.1 p intH of
lere htri'p,
>ragp width
Is. I» tl>"
(ro our ap-
wild low!,
ig tlio tim-
and larpo
with antc-
iountry and
to keep llio
evening we
1, about live
airie border-
;re occurred
, and in its
growth ol
h Hmall bare
no much of
oaching tho
■iant vegcta-
bundanco of

ting darker;
weather is a
s rapidly ad-
te a summer

at daylipht,
ie. We fer-
ilty, and con-
k were riin-
1 arid in the
lod the river
lough, which
ade a circuit
the country
lav^ entirely
by a large
size. The
in breadth,
interspersed
,ppearB suffi-
jr, but its na-

vigation would 1)0 broken by HliallowH at 1
water. Hearing in townnln the river, wo
wore again forced otF by another iiloiigh ;
mid paHHing around, ttteered towardH a clump
of treeHim the river, and,Uiiiling there ('(hhI
<rraM, encamped. Tho prairiex ahuig the
left hank are alive with immetiKe drovoH of
wild liorHeH ; and they had been Keen during
the day at every o|)oning through the wcmnIh
which atVorded iih a view arro«n tho rivor.
Latiliule, by obHcrvation, 37** 08' 00"; lon-
gitude l'J0-.|ft'2'2".

Ajiril ft. — During the earlier part of the
ilay'ti rido, tho country proHonted a lacus-
trine appearance ; the river wuh deep, and
nearly on a level with tho Biirroiinding coun-
try ; its banks rained like a lovee, and fring-
itl with willows. Over tho bordering plain
were interspersed sjiots of prairie among
tk'Idh o{ luU (bulrushes), which in this coun-
try are cal'd /M/an;.«, and little ponds. On
the (ipnositu side, a lino of timber was visi-
iilo, which, according to information, points
out the course of tho slough, which at times
I if high water connects with tho 8an Joa-
ijiiiii river — a la.go body of water in the
upper part of the valley, called the Tul6
hilvLH. The river and all its sloughs are
very full, and it is probable that the lake is
iiDW discharging. Here elk were frequent-
ly Htarted, and one was shot out of a band
wiiich ran around us. On our left, the
•Sierra maintains its snowy height, and
imisses of snow appear to descend very low
tiiwiirds tho plains ; probably the late rains
ill the valley were snow on the mountains.
We travelled 37 miles, and encamped on the
river. Longitude of the camp, 120° 28'
U", and latitude 36" 49' 12'.

.1/'/// 6. — After having travelled fifteen
iiiiieb along the river, we made an early halt,
tinder tho shade of sycamore trees. Here
we found the 8an Joaquin coming down
from the Sierra with a westerly course, and
checking our way, as all its tributaries had
previously done. We had expected to raft
t!ie river ; but found a good ford, and en-
iiunpcd on the opposite bank, where droves
lit wild horses were raising clouds of dust
oil the prairie. Columns of smoke were
visible in the direction of the Tul6 lakes to
the southward — probably kindled in the tu-
lareti by the Indians, as signals that there
were strangers in the valley.

We made, on the 7th, a hard march in a
cold chilly rain from morning until night —
lie weather so thick tliat we travelled by
compaiis. This was a traverse from the San
Joaquin to the waters of the Tul« lakes,
and our road was over a very level prairie
country. We saw wolves frequently during
the day, prowling about after the young an-
telope, which cannot run very fast. These

were numerous during 'ue day, and two
wore caught by the ju'ej/ie.

[jite in tho liltoriKHwi .ve diHCovered thn-
Imt, which was fnu.id to ln> proves of oak
trees on a dry am»,o. Tlh> rain, which had
fallen in frequent (•liowerx. poured di>v'»; in a
storm at siiuMet, \v III a Htrniiir wind, which
swept (itr till' cloiiil'", and left a cleat ; ky.
Riding on tliron^'h tl<e timber, nlioiit dark
we loiiiiil aliiindaiit wati r in f<inall iioihIh, 20
to 30 yp.rdM in diumetir, with clear deep
water and sandy lieds, bordered with bog
rushes (Jiiiinix rjyiisus), und a tall rush
(frirpu)! lacuniiis) iwi-lve fee* higli.and sur-
rounded near the margin vvitli willow tree*
in bloom ; airuing them one which resem-
bled salix ini/riri)ijes. The oak of the
groves was tne same already mentioned,
with small leaves, in form like those of the
white oak, and forming, with tho cverg.een
oak, tho cliaracteristic trees of the vnllo;. .

April 8. — After a rido of two miles
through brush and open groves, we reached
a large stream, called the River of the Lake,
resembling in size the San Joaquin, and
being al)out 100 yards broad. Thi.i is the
principal tributary to the Tiilo lakes, which
collect all the waters in the upper part of
tho valley. While wo were searching for a
ford, some Indians appeared on the opposite
bank, and, having discovered that we were
not Spanish soldiers, showed us the way to
a good ford several miles above.

The Indians of the Sierra make frequent
descents upon tho settlements west of tho
Coast Range, which they keep constantly
swept of horses ; among them aremanywho
are called Christian Indians, being relugces
from Spanish missions. Several of these
incursions occurred while we were at Hel-
vetia. Occasionally parties of soldiers fol-
low them across the C oast Range, but never
enter the Sierra.

On tho opposite side we found some forty
or fifty Indians, who had come to meet us
from the village below. We made them
some small presents, and invited them to ac-
company us to our encampment, which,
after about three miles through fine oak
proves, we made on the river. We made a
lort, principally on account of our animals.
The Indians 'wrought otter skins, and several
kinds of fish, and bread made of acorns, to
trade. Among them were several who had
come to live among these Indians when the '
missions were broken up, and who spoke
Spanish fluently. They informed us that
they were- called by the Spaniards viaiisitos
(tame), in distinction from the wilder tribes
of the mountains. They, however, think
themselves very insecure, not knowing at
what unforeseen moment the sins of the lat-
ter may be visited on them. They are dark'

'•?■

I ■>•

1 ;■

1 1

■V

CAPr. I'UKyo.NT'H NARRATIVE.

[1844

iikinni'il, liiit liiinilMiiino nml intollipfont In-
(liatiH, iiriit livi> |>rinri|Milly nn acDrrit ntui the
rooN lit' tlir* tiil<t, of which uUo their hiitH
nre mmlf.

My <tt)M«»rviition, tlio Intitml.' of tho iti-
rnttinmi'tit Im .'}({" •2\' OU", and lungituJu
lU)*" 11' i()».

April <). — For Hoverftl mHoM wo hnd very
Mid fiuvclliiiif ovor whiit in r;ill<><l nttti'ti
i;rmiiMl, ir\ which the finrm'H wero frt'fiiii'ntly
up tit thfir l<tio('H. Miikini.' Idwiirdx a line
of limlKT, w(« foimd ii Mmall forrluliio utrniim,
bcyori'l wliicfi tho roiintry imiirovcd, niid the
f^riinH licciitiio rxrrllctif ; iind, rroHHiiii' ii
iiiimlii'r of dry luid tiinhprcd arrm/nn, wv
travolli'd until late through o|i<'n(ifil< ftrnvon,
and tMic:im|i('d amonj^a roIlcctinnDf HtrmimH.
Tht>Ht> vvi'H! running amon^; ru-iioN and vvil-
Iowh; and, an nNiinl, flocl<H of hlnrhliirds
announced our approach to wntor. Wo
havp liori" approached considcrnlily noaror to
the oasfprn Siorra, which hIiovvm vory plain-
ly, Htill covorod with masHcuof 8now, which
yosforday and to-day han also appoarcd
ftlinndant on tho Poant Ranpo.

April 10. — To-day wo mado another lonjj
jonrnoy of ahout forty milos, through a
country unintoroHtinsr and Hat, with very
littlo grasH and a sandy soil, in which sovoral
hranchpM wo crossed had lost thoir wator.
In tho ovoning tho face of tho country ho-
cnnio hilly ; and, turning a fow miles up
towards tho mountains, wo found a good en-
campment on a pretty stream hidden among
tho hills, and handsomely timhorod, princi-
pally with large cotton woods (p)^?//M,s, difter-
mg from any in Michaux's Sylva). Tho
seed vessels of this tree wore now just ahout
bursting.

Several Indians camo down tho river to
see »»8 in tho evening; wo gave them supper,
and cautioned them against stealing our
horses; which they promised not to attempt.

April ] I. — A broad trail along the river
hero takes out among the hills. "Biien
camino " (fjood road), said one of flio In-
dians, of whom we had inquired about tho
pass ; and, following it accordingly, it con-
ducted us beautifully through a very broken
country, by an exccilont way, which, other-
wise, wo should have found extremely bad.
Tnkr'n separately, the hills pre.sent smooth
and graceful outlines, but, together, make
bad travelling ground. Instead of grass, tho
whole face of the country is closely covered
with crodlum cicutarinm, hero only two or
throe inches high. Its height and beauty
varied in a remarkable manner with the lo-
cality, being, in many low places which we
passed during the day, around streams and
springs, two and three feet in height. The
country had now assumed a character of
aridity ; and the luxuriant green of these
Uttle streams, wooded with willow, oak, or

Myrruiiiiri', lof)ked very n-froshing anion|; th«
sandy hilU.

In the evening we encainpod on a large
creek, with abundant wiiter. I noticed liere
in bloom, for the tiri«t lime since leaving tlie
Arkansas wafi-rs, tho Minifiitis Julantt.

April \'2. — Along our road to-day tin'
country was alt«igether ftandy, and vegetation
ineiiger. I'.-hnlra (X'ri'lrnliilin, which wo
had lirsf f en in the neighlK>rho«Hl of the
I'yramid lake, made its ap|H>arance here, and
in tho coiir-e of the* day Ix'caine very ii!;iui-
dant, and in largo buf<heti. TowanU Ihc
close of the altemooii, wo reaclifd a tolcrii-
lilv large river, which emptieM into a huiiiII
lake at the head (d' tho valley ; it is abimt
lliirty-live yards wi<le, with a i tony iinil
gravelly bed, and tho swiftest stream we
have crossed since leaving tho bay. Tin'
bottoms pnMliiced no grass, though well
timbered with willow and cottcmwood ; nnd,
ttOer awcentling it for several miles, wo inmlc
a lato encampment on a littlo bottom, wiih
scanty gniss. In greater part, tho vegefn-
tion alotig our road consisted now of rare
and unusual plants, among which muny
were entirely new.

Along the lM)ttoms wore thickets consist-
ing of several varieties of shrubs, wliirli
made hero their first appoaranco; andanidii).'
these was (inrryn elliplica (Lindley), a small
tree belonging to a very peculiar natiirHl
order, and, in its general appearance fgrow-
ing in thickets), resembling willow. It now
becanifi common along tho streams, frr-
(juently Hup|dying the place of salix longi-
folia.

April 13. — The wator was low, and a few
miles above wo forded the river at a rapid,
and marched in a southeasterly direcliitii
over a less broken country. The mouiitaiiw
were now very near, occasionally loominf;
out through fog. In a few hours wo reiulird
the bottom of a creek withotit water, nvor
which the sandy beds were dispersed in
many branches. Immediately where wo
struck it, tho timber terminated ; and beluw,
to tho right, it was a broad bed of dry nnd
bare sands. There were many tracks of
Indians and horses imprinted in tho sand.
which, with other indications, informed us
was the creek issuing from the pass, and
which we have called I'ass creek. Wc as-
cended a trad for a few miles along the
creek, and suddenly found a stream of water
five feet wide, running With a lively current,
but losing itself almost immediately. This
little stream showed plainly the manner in
which the mountain waters lose themselves
in sand at the eastern foot of the Sierra,
leaving only a parched desert and arid plains
beyond. The stream enlarged rapidly, and
the timber became abundant as we ascended.
A new species of pine made its appearance,

[1844

imong th«

n a InTRp
itiiM'd lirri'
"aviiifr III'"
tlavn.
((.(lay tin-
voijotiition
w\\k\\ wo
M)(l of lli«
o liorp.iinil
very ii!;iim-
twiiril« llif

i>(| II toltTll-

[)fo a Miiiill
it in alxiiit

I tony mill

Htrctuii \vi'

Imy. Thn
lioii^h well
iwoihI ; nii'l
(>M, wo nmdc
Dottom, with
, tho vont'ta-
now of run;
vhicli inuny

kets conoift-
iruhK, wliirli
!•, nnil nniiiii(.'
ilipy),aRmnll
iiliar untiirHl
riincc fRriuv-
llow. U now
strcairiH, frr-
f salix lonifi-

)W, nnil n few
T at a mpiil,
>rly (lirprUitii
'ho mountains
mlly looming,'
rs wc roiirlipii
it watrr, nvpr
(licpersctl in
LT whore wc
il ; and below,
eil of dry nml
any tracks of
in tho siuiJ.
, inforiml us
tlio pass, iind
reek. Wc as-
iles along the
tream of water
lively current,
diately. TWb
he manner in
age themselves
of the Sierra,
and arid plain*
d rapidly, and
-D we ascended,
its appcarsnce,

181 (.]

CAIT FUKMONTH NAKHATIVi;.

ift7

with rovrrfil kiniU of oiik-*, nii<l a Muioty of
trooF«; anil tho ooiuitry v\v\i\ii'Uu \tn npfM'Hr-
iinoo HiidiliMiiy nml ontiroly, wo found our-
mdvrri ii|{iiiii tnivi'lliiiir ninoni; the old or-
cliird-liko |iliiron, Iti-ro we Kidcctod a lU'-
li^rliilnl <'ii<'iiin|iiM<'iit ill a liiiiid'iiino ^roni
ii;ik liiilliiw, whoro, aniiin|,r ihi> opoii lntlU ol
tlio troo-<, wnM iin aliiiiuliint xwitrd ot tfriiMs
and pt'ii vinoH. In tlii> ovonin^ a ChriHtiiin
Indian rndo into the ninip. woll ih'i'MHod, with
liiii^r Hiiiirx, and a innili/mi, iinil K)H'iikin((
.'^jmni'li (liionfly- It wan nn imrxpcctod iip-
parition. and a htran^o and ploitp^ant Hiirht in
tliiw doMohitc cfor^iooi a nioMnliiin — an Indian
laco, MpaniHli coMtiinio, jinirlin^ ^piirf*, and
liorno <'(|iiip|iri| at)or tho Spanish iminiior.
Ilo in!iirinc<l inu that ho liolon;.rod to ono of
iho SpiiniHh iniNxions to tho couth, distant
two or thron dayH* rido, and that ho had
olifiiinod from tho prioNtH icavo to Hpond a
li'w diiyM with liiM rolations in tho Siorra.
Ilaviujj i<oon iih ontor tho puss, he had conio
ili)wn to vjKit UH. Mo appoarrd familiarly
ii('(|ii:iiiilod with tho roiintry, and iravo mo
(li>Hnito and clear information in ro(;ard to
tho do8ort rojfion eaHt of tho mountains. I
had ontorod the paHH with a Htronp dispof^i-
tititi to vary my roiito, and to travel directly
luroHH towardrt tho (treat Salt lake, in tho
view of obtaining nomo acfpiaintance with
tho interior of tho <ireat BiiHin, while pnr-
Hiiin;' a direct course for tho frontier; but
hi>» roproHontation, which described it as an
arid and barren desert, that had repulsed by
Its Htorilitj all tho aitempts of tho Indians
fopiMiotrato it, determined me for the present
to ri'iiiKpiish the plan; and, agreeably to hi.s
ndvico, after crossinff tho Sierra, continue
')iir intended route along its eastern base to
tlie Spanish trail. By this route, a party of
MX Indians, who had come from a great
river in tlio eastern part of the desert to
trado witli his people, had just started on
their return. He would himself return the
next day to San Fernando ; and as our roads
wiiiiid be the same for two days, ho offered
his pervicea to conduct us so far on our way.
His offer waa gladly accepted. The fog,
which had somewhat Interfered with views
in the valley, had entirely passed oflif and
left a clear sky. That which had enveloped
us in the neighborhood of the pass pro-
ceeded evidently from fires kindled among
the tulares by Indians living near the lakes,
«nd which were intended to warn those in
tho mountains that there were strangers in
the valley. Our position was in latituc'c 36°
17' 12", and longitude 118" 36' 03".

April 14. — Our guide joined us this mom-
iTig on the trail; r».nd, arriving in a short
distance at an open bottom where the creek
forked, we continued up the right-hand
branch, which was enriched by a profusion
of flowers, and handsomely wooded with

xyciinioro, oukx, roitonwuiNl, and willow,
with other tri'OH, and Hoini- nhrnliliy piunia.
In iti^ long xtrin^i ol liailH, tliii nyi-ittnoro
dilli'rit Irotii that ol the I'nitod Niuti"<, ami in
Iho /i/f</(i>iifi iM-riJfiiliilin of lliKikor - a ni'W
Mpoi'ioH, recently diHcnlNMl ninoii^' tho plaiiU
collectoil in Iho vovago ^\\ the Nijpliiir. Thr
cotfiinwood variini JIh foliage with while
tiiltH, iiiid tlio r<>iitlii>ry m'oiIh wito llsing
plontiriilly tliroiii;h the lux. < ■(xi-cborriew,
iii',irly riiio, were very aliiindunt uii llii> iiioun*
tain ; ami a:* wo paHHcil llii> dividing (rroiindii,
which wore not ver\ vnny to iixcortain, Iho
air waN t'lllod with pi-rliinio, as il wo were
oiitoriiig a hi)r|i|y ciiltiviiti'il giirdi>ii ; iiiul,
iiiKti>iii| III' (rriM'ii, oiirpathwiiy iitid tltc nuMin*
tain .xidort wore covered with tlolil ul ji-iiow
llowors, which lioiowaH the previiilin;; color.
Our ioiirnoy to-day wwi* in tho inid.ot of an
adviincod npring, wIioko green and lloral
lioniity oUI'rfil a deliglittiil confrnHt to the
«andy valley we hud jiikI Iclt. All the day,
snow waH in night on the butt of the iiioiin-
tain, which frowned down upon us on tho
right ; but we behold it now with loolings of
pleasant security, as we rode almig licivveon
groon trees, and on (lowerH, with hiiinining
birds and other leathered Iricnilw of tlio trii-
veller ( Mlivoning tho ^'orolle spring air Ah
we reac'iied the summit of this lioautiful
pass, and obtained a view into the eastern
country, we Haw at once that her^ was the
place to take leave of all such pleasant
sceiiOH as tlioso around lis. The distant
mountains were now bald rocks again; and
below, the land had any color but green.
Taking into consideration tho nature of the
Sierra Nevada, we found this pass an excel-
lent one for horses ; and with a liitie lalior,
or perhaps with a more perfect examination
uf Iho localities, it might \>f made siitllcient-
ly practicable for wagons. Ifs latitude and
longitude may be considered that of our
last encampment, only a few miles distant.
The elevation was not taken — our half-wild
cavalcade making it too troublesome to halt
before night, when once Ptarfed.

We here left the waters of the bay of Sac
Francisco, and, though forced upon them
contrary to my intentions, I cannot regret
the necessity which occasioned the deviation.
It made mo well acquainted with the great
range of tho Sierra Nevada of the Alta Cali-
fornia, and showed that this broad and ele-
vated snowy ridge was a continuation of the
Cascade Range of Oregon, between which
and the ocean there is still another and a
lower range, parallel to the former and to
the coast, and which may be called the Coast
Range. It also made me well acquainted
with the basin of the San Francisco bay,
and with the two pretty rivers and their
valleys (the Sacramento and San Joaquin),
which are tributary to that bay ; and cleared

I5A

CAl»T. I'llKMON'I'H NAKIIAIIVK.

[1844

up noinr |H)infi» in ip>o(/rnpliv on wliirli orror

liiiil l()n({ pri'viiili'tl It linil I n ronxlitntly

ru|iritii(Miti'i|, AM I liiivi* iilri'itily HUti'tl, that
tlic> iMiy i»r Hun Frnniiiii) ojmmh'iI fur ihti)flii<
ii)U«ri(ir, liy ■omi> rivrr ruining down tntin
tho iMtMi' oi tltx Rocky inoiintHinx, timl ntton
wliii'li Mii|i|i<Hi>i| Htri'iiin till) n'lini' of llio
iliiiMiHViiitii.i liiiil lM.ti>n lii'Ntowi'd. Our olt-
•(•rvatiiinM ol tin* Sii>rra Novmlit, in thn Imi^
tliNtiiiKu* Iroui tho head ol tho Sai'rniwnto to
t*ii> hflad ol thn Sun Joui|iiin, utid of Iht* val-
ley licjow if, \vhi«'h colU'c.tH all lh<' wntorn of
til'! Sun FrunciMCD hay, mIiow thut thix ni>i-
thi'r it nor cmi Im> tho cnr*i\ No rivor from
tho inti-rior dooi, or run, cnHH tho Siorra
Nwvad'i — ifMolf nioro loOv than tho rocky
inoiintuinrt ; and u*« to tho llnonavontiiru, tho
mouth of which noon oii tho ooaMi ^uvo tho
idoa uiid tho namo of Iho ropiilod grout rivor,
it in, in fact, u Hinnll Mtroam of no mtiNo-
ijnoiico, not only holow tho Siorra Novadn,
but uctuallv Iwlow thu(.'i>ai«t Uango^-tukin;;
itrt rirto williin half a do^^roo of the ocoan,
ruiinin}r parallol to it lor uhoiit two dojrrooi-,
und then fallin(f into tho I'acilic noar ^^on-
teroy. Thore i» no ofKMiing from tho bay of
San [''runci^co into tho intorior of the conti-
nent. The two rivers which How into it are
comparatively nhort, and not per|)endictilar
to the coaHt, but lateral to it, and haviii'r
tlioir head.H towards Ore},'on and Moiitiiern ( 'uU
ifnrnia. Thoy open linen of commiinicaticm
north and Hoiith, anil not caHtwardly ; and
lliUH thin want of interior communication
tVom tho Sail Franc Ihco bay, now fully as-
certained, yivofl jjreat additional value to the
Columbia, which standu alone um the onlv
great river on the Pacific slope of our conti-
nent which leads from the ocean to tho
Rocky Hinuntains, and opens a line of com-
munication from the sea to the valley of the
Mississippi.

Four compith'ros joined our guide at tho
pass ; and two going back at noon, the others
continued on in company. Descending from
tho hills, we reached a country of fine grass,
where tho eiUHlium cicutariurn finally uisap*
peared, giving place to an excellent quality
of bunch grass. Passing by some springs
where there was a rich sward of grass
among groves of largo black oak, wo rode
liver a pluin on which the guide pointed out
.1 ypot where a refugee Christian Indian had
been killed by a party of soldiers which had
unexpectedly penetrated into the mountains.
Crossing a low sierra, and descending a hol-
.ow wliere a spring gushed out, we were
struck bv the sudden appearance of yi/cca
trees, which gave a strange and southern
character to the country, and suited well
with the dry and desert region we were ap-
proaching. Aasociated with the idea of bar-
ren sands, their stiff and ungraceful form
makes them to the traveller the most repul-

nlvo troc in the vi'grlRhli» kingdom Follow-
ing thi* hollow, wo xhortly cnnio ii|Kin u crrok
'imliorod with lurgo hliuk onk, which yrt
had not put lorth n loaf. Thoro wni« a Hmnll
rivuU't of running wator, with giNwl i;ru«it.
/ifiril 10. — Tho IndiitiiM who had uccoiu-

INiniod tho guido rcturnod thiN inoriiii''r, and
piirchnsfd from thom a SpaniMh Huddli> uinl
long Mpurs, us roininiHroiu'oa of tho time ;
ami for a fow yurd^ of Mrarlot clolli thoy
gave mo a horso, whitdi uftorwarilM iM'caiiti'
IiknI for othor Indians.

We conlinuod a short diHtunco dov^n thi
crook, in which our guido iiilurmod iii
thut tho water very soon diNuppotirod, aiul
tiirnofl directly to tho southward along tin-
foot of tho mountain ; the trail on which wc
rode ap|M>ariiig to doscrilio tho oaMtom limit
of travol, whero water and ^'niss toriiiinutcd.
(!rosNing a low spur, which Ixinlorod '!'«
crook, wo desconded to a kiml of plitiri
among tho lower spurs ; tho doscrt lioing in
full view on our loft, apparently illiinitalilo
A hot mist lay over it to-dny, through whirl
it had u white and glistoning appoaninco;
hero und there n fow dry-lcHiking hi 'h s mid
isolated bluck ridges rose suddenly upon it.
"Thoro," said our guido, stretching out hi.-,
hand towards it, " there are the grout llitiiii:<
(plains), tin h'tij dffiia ; vo htiij zitaiii — muln .
there is noithor water nor grass — notliin
every animal that goes out upon tlioiii, ''oh.'
It was indooddiHuml to look upon, and hard >
conceive so great a change in so short adin-
tance. One might travel tho world over,
without lindinif a valley innro fresh uin! ver-
dant — more Imral and sylvan — more mIiv
with birds and animals — more bounteously
watered — than we had left in the Sun Joa-

3uin: here, within a few miles' rido, a vast
esert plain spread before us, from wliich tho
boldest traveller turned away in despair.

Directly in front of us, at some distance to
the southward, and running out in an onKt-
erly direction from tho mountains, stretclieil
a sierra, having at the eastern end (perhaps
60 miles distant) some snowy peaks, on
which, by tho information of our guide, snow
rested all the year.

Our cavalcade made a strange niid gro-
tesque appearance ; and it was impossible to
avoid renecting upon our position and com-
position in this remote solitude. Within
two degrees of the Pacific ocean; already
far Boutn of the latitude of Monterey ; anJ
still forced on south by a desert on one huiid
and a mountain range on tho other ; guided
by a civilized Indian, attended by two wild
ones from the Sierra ; a Chinook from the
Columbia ; and our own mixture of Ameri-
can, French, German—all armed ; four or
five languages heard at once ; above a hun-
dred horses and mules, half wild ; American,
Spanish, and Indian dresses and equipments

[1844.

lorn F'»ll«)w-
) ii|K)n II creek
k, wliicli yet
rn wuH n Mmall

II liiiil iicciitn-
iiKiriiii'', atui

InIi Mlllllil)' lUlll

of till' tiinc ;
let cliilli tlic'v
nriiril-4 In'Oiiiiii'

[ICO »li)wn thr

intiirincil ih

iipprurril, and

i-aril aliiti(( tlif

on wliifli wi'

oaMtcrn limit

nt^ Icrininiitcii.

IxiriliTod 'I'i

kind of I'luti

iMcrt lii'in^ ill

liy iilitiiitiiliit'

tliri>ii;;li wliid

r ii|ip«'i»runcp;

t\[t III '/• n mill

lonly upon it.

tcliin;; out liio

ic prt'iit llitiiiif

ZllCil/^— llllilll .

iiHH — nntliiii,:
on tlii'iii, ■''«»«."
on, niid liard >

80 nliort iiiiii*-
p world over,
fresh siiid vor-
n — iniiri' iilivo
■o l)o\int<'oiisly

llu' Htm Joii-
«' ride, a vast
frotn wliicli tlio
in despair,
iincj distiinrc to
lit in iin onst-
ain-», strotclied
n end (perhaps
wy peiik.s, on
)ur fjiiide, snow

ango nnd gro-
8 impot«o)il)lo to
iition and coin-
tude. Within
)cean ; already
yionteroy ; and
rt on one hand

other; guided
h1 by two wild
nook from the
lire of Ameri-
rmed ; four or

above a hun-
ild ; American,
ind equipments

18 1 1

CWr, FU I : MONTH NAUR.VI'IVK.

lAO

inti'rmintflod— Miicli waa our r<iin|irMitlnn.
Our miirrli vvn^ a wort ot pnM'i'«<ion, Hroiiln
iihi'itd, iiud nil the Mitiikt ; n Iroiit and roar
tiviHinh ; tlio |Mi<'k nnlnialii, \>nuipiy(v, and
lioriii'd ratllt', in tlii> ('ctiln' ; iitidtho whoii*
'iri'ti-liinj^ a (pmrti>r of ii iniii* nioiii; our
ilfi'piry jiiilli. In (Iiim form w joii.i yi-d ;
l'N)kni(r more a^ il wn Udon^fd to Ania lliitn
I I till' Hiiiti'd Hlalt'n ol AiiK'rii'ii.

NV't» roiitiiiui>d ill II noiitlicrly dirortion
tiniHi* tlH> plain, to wliicli, hn wi>ll mn to m
I III' coiiiitry, M) lur iim w»* coiihl mi<i», tint i/kc
•/iri'CK (^avc a Htnin(/»» and f<iiij(uliir cliii-
I u it'r H<»vt'ral nrw pliints iipiM'iirud, ainou^
Ahicli witM a xyifopliylliici'oiiH xliriili (zi/nif
I'hiiUiiin ('iilifitniiriini, 'I'orr. and Kn-iii.),
MHiu'liiiH's ten fi'of ill lu'ij^lit ; in loriii, and
III the pliancy of itn hraiiilicH, it ix rather n
'irai't-fiil plant, Itn li-avcs nro Minatl, cover-
I'd with a reHinouM Huhxtnnce ; and, pnrticii>
lirly when briiiMod and cruMlu'd, exhale a
MiiKulur hut very agreeabh) and rplreshini^
iidiir. Tliirt Nhriib and the yucrn, with many
viirietien of cactUH, make iho chariicteriKtic
r<'atun.^H in the vegetation for a longdiMtancp
ti) the oaHtward. Along the foot of the
iiioiintain, twenty miloM to tlie aonthward,
n-d Ntri|K>M of tlowcrH were viHiblo during the
iniirning, which we HuppoNed to l)0 vario-
;;at(.'d Handritimoi. We rode ntpidly during
llie day, nnd in the a<\erni)on emergeil from
till' ijurcii forcHt at the foot of an Ditttinr of
the Hierrii before ii8, and came among the
•ii'Ids of riowera we had seen in the n»orn-
iiig, wliich couHinted principally of the rich
(Miige-colored Californian poppy, mingled
with other flowers of brighter tintn. Reach-
iiijr the top of the spur, which wn« covered
with fine bunch grass, and where the iiillH
wore very green, our guide pointed to a
•mall hollow in the mountain before us, nay-
in;,', " A rsle pietlra hay fiffua." He ap|M'ar-
od to know every nook in the country. We
roiitinued our beautiful road, and reached a
-spring in the slope, at the foot of the ridge,
:'iiining in a green ravitie, among granite
Colliders ; here nigiit-ahade, and liorclcrd of
tmckwiieat, with their white blossoms around
t'li" n:ruiiito rocks, attracted our notice as fa-
"liliar plants. Hevcral antelopes wore seen
iinong the hills, and some large hares. Men
wore sent back this evening in search of a
wild mule with a valuable pack, which had
i.iannged (as they frequently do) to hide
iNolf along the road.

Hv observation, the latitude of the camp
;>> :U"> 41' 42"; and longitude 118° 20' 00".
The next day the men returned witli the
mule.

April 17. — Crossing the ridge by a beau-
tiful pass of hollows, where several deer
broke out of the thickets, we emerged at a
^inall salt lake in a vallon lying nearly east
and west, where a trail from the mission of

Siin Hwnniftituni cnm«*a In The Inkn is
alMMil 1,'iUO ynrdN in diaiiielpr ; ■M.iiiiiiidod
on the iiiariiin by a white nalty Ixirdur,
which, by the riiiuII, reminded u>t Hlightly ol
I.iikf» AU'rt. 'I'lu're are Koiiie cnUnimiMMlN,
with willow and eldi'r, around the lake ; ami
tlie water ih a little «alt, although imt en-
tirely unlit lur drinking. Here s\o turned
directly to the eiutwanl, along the trail,
which, from iN'ing Hulduiii iipied, U aliiioNt
iniiKirceptible ; and, alter traveijjng a lew
iiiliei«, our guide hailed, and, |i<iintiiig to Ilio
hardly vimbli) trail, "/ii/io ia mmuui," Haid
he, " nn x/ jiiinlr — \it iiiimi>i>\" \\,< |iiMiit-
ed out a black Iniiit! on tliu |dain at tlie loot
of the mountain, where wu would tliid water
to encamp at night ; and, giving hiin a [ire-
Kent ol knives and m-aritt cloth, \\»< xhook
hanilM anil parted. He bore oil' moiiiIi, ami in
a day's riile would arrive at Han l-'ernundo,
one of several missions m this part of (.'ali-
loriiia, where ilie country is so beuiitilul that
it iri consiilereil a paradise, anil the iiume of
itH principal town {I'lnhlu itn /ns An^ilia)
would make it angelic. We coMiniied on
through a succession of valleys, and came
"-'o a most beautiful s|Mit of llower liuUU :
iiibiead of green, the hilu were perple and
orange, with unbroken beds, into which
each color was separately gathered. A pale
straw color, with a bright yellow the rich
red orange of the iK^ppy ininglod with lielda
of piirjde, covered the spot with a Moral
beauty ; and, on the border of the sandy de-
serts, seemed to invite the traveller to go no
fartlrer. Riding along through the perlumed
air, wo soon alter entorn'ii a dehie over-
grown with the ominous iirL'imsin tritlvn-
liilit, which conducted ns into a sandy plain
covered more or loss densely with lorests of
yucca.

Having now the snowy ridgo on our right,
we continued our way towards a dark hulte,
L)elongiiig to u low sierra in the plain, and
which oiir guide hud pointed out lor a land-
mark. Late in the day, the familiar growth
of Cottonwood, a line of which was visible
ahead, indicated our approach to a ereek,
which wo reached where tho water spread
out into sand.H, and u liltlo below sank en-
tirely. Here our guide had intended we
should pass the night ; but there was not a
blade of grass, anil, hoping to find nearer the
mountain a little for the night, we turned up
the stream. A hundred yards above, we
found the creek a tine -Iream, sixteen feel
wide, with a swiil current. A dark night
overtook us when we reached the hills at
the foot of the ridge, and we were obliged
to encamp without grass ; tying up what
animals we could secure in the darkness,
the greater part of the wild ones having free
range for the night. Here the stream was
two feet deep, swift and clear, issuing from

100

CAPT. FRRMONT'S NARRATIVE

[1844.

a neighboring snow peak. A few mile h bo-
fore reachin^j this cnu-k, wo had crossod a
broad dry river bed, which, nearer tlie hills,
the hunters had found a bold and handsome
stream.

April 18. — Some parties were cnpaged in
huntinij lip the Hcatteroil horses, and others
in H( '.rchinjj ibr {fiass above ; botii were
succcsslnl, and late in the day we encamped
among sotne spring heads of tho river, in a
hollow vThich was covered with only tolera-
b'y good grasses, the lower ground bein<,'Lii-
tirely overgrown with large brnchei of the
coarse stilV grass (ntrex silrlirnsis).

Our latitude, by observation, was 31° 27'
03"; and longitude 117° 13' 00".

Travelling close along the mountain, we
followed up, in tho afternoon of the 19th,
another stream, in hopes to find a grass-
patch like that of the previous day, but wore
deceived ; except some scattered bunch
grass, there was nothing but rock and sand ;
and even the fertility of the mountain seem-
ed withered by the air of the desert. Among
the few trees was the nut pine (pinus mono-
phyllus).

Our road the next day was still in an
easter'y direction along the ridge, over very
bad travelling ground, broken and confound-
ed with crippled trees and shrubs ; and,
after a difficult march of eighteen miles, a
•wneral shout announced that we had struck
the gri:at object of our seach — the Spanish
TRAIL — which here was running directly
north. The road itself, and its course, were
equally happy discoveries to us. Since the
middle of December we had continually been
forced south by mountains and by deserts,
and now would have to make six degrees
of nor<fti?jg', to regain the latitude on which
we wished to crosu the Rocky mountains.
The course of the road, therefore, was what
we wanted ; and, once more, we felt like
going homewards. A road to travel on, and
the right course to go, were joyful consola-
tions to us ; and our animals enjoyed the
)eate>i track like ourselv^os. Relieved from
Lha rocks and brush, our wild mules started
off at a rapid rate, and in fifteen miles we
reached a considerable river, timbered with
Cottonwood and willow, where we found a
bottom of tolerable grass. As the animals
had suffered a great deal in the last few days,
I remained here all next day, to allow them
the necessary repose ; and it was now ne-
cessary, at every favorable place, to make a
littlo halt. Between us and the Colorado
river we v.cre aware that the country was ex-
tremely poor in grass, and scarce for water,
there being many jomadas (day's journey),
or Jong stretches of fortv to sixty miles, with-
out water, where the road was marked by
bones of animals.
Although in California we had met with

people who had passed over this trail, we had
been able to obtain no correct information
about it; and the greater part of what we
had heard was found to be only a tissue of
falsehoods. The rivers that vvi> foinid on it
were never mentioned, and others, parli;;ular-
ly described in name and locality, were sub-
sequently seen in another part of the coun-
try. It was described as a tolerably good
sandy road, with so little rock as sciirceTy to
require the animals to be shoil ; and we found
it the roughest and rockiest road wo had ever
seen in tl.c country, and which nearly de-
stroyed our band of line mules and horses.
Many tnimals are destroyed on it every year
by a disease called tho foot evil ; and a tra-
veller should never venture on it without
having his animals well shod, and also carry-
'iiw extra shoes.

Latitude 34° 34' 11"; and longitude 117"
13' 00".

The morning of the 22d was clear and
bright, and a snowy peak to the southward
shone out higli and sharply defined. As has
been usual since we crossed the mountains
and descended into the hot plains, we had n
gale of wind. We travelled down the right
bank of tho stream, over sands wliich are
.somewhat loose, and have no vci ire, but
are occupied by various shrubs. A clem
bold stream, 60 feet wide, and several feet
deep, had a strange appearance, running be-
tween perfectly naked banks of sand. The
eye, however, is somewhat relieved by wil-
lows, and the beautiful green of the sweet
cottonwoods with v/hich it is well wooded
As we followed along its course, tho river,
instead of growing constantly larger, gradu-
ally dwindled away, as it was absorbed by
the sand. We were now careful to take the
old camping places of the annual Santa Fd
caravans, which, luckily for us, had not yet
made their yearly passage. A drove of se-
veral thousand horses and mules would en-
tirely have swept away the scanty grass at
the watering places, and we should have
been obliged to leave the road to obtain suh-
sistence for our animals. After riding 20
miles in a northeasterly direction, we found
an old encampment, where we halted.

By observation, the elevation of this en-
campment is 2,250 feet.

April 23. — ^The trail followed still alonjr
the riv ., which, in the course of the morn-
ing, entirely disappeared. We continue:!
along the dry bed, in which, after ?.n intervul
of about 16 miles, the water reappearec' in
some low places, well timbered with cotton-
wood and willow, where was another of the
customary camping grounds. Here a party
of six Indians came into camp, poor and hun-
gry, and quite in keeping with the character
of the country. Their arms were bows of
unusual length, and each haxl a large gourd,

[1844.

trail, wo had
intorinatinn
of wliat we
y a tissue of
» tbdiid on it
•s, parlitMiiar-
y, weif Hub-
oi 111'? coun-
)loral)ly L'ood
Id HCiircely to
ami we lound
1 wo liail ever
li nenriy do-
i and iiorses.
I it every year
il ; and a tra-
in it willioiit
nd also carry-

jngitude 117°

/as clear and
he southward
ined. As lias
the mountains
lins, we had a
jown the right
ids wliicli lire

vcr 'lire, but
■ubs. A cleai
id several leet
ze, running be-
of sand. Tlie
blieved by wil-

1 of the sweet
well wooded.

irse, tho river,
' larger, gradii-
13 absorbed by
•eful to take the
jHual Santa Fe
IS, had not yet
A drove of sc-
ales would eii-
xanty grass at
e should havo
1 to obtain sub-
After riding '2\)
^tion, we found
'9 halted.
;ion of this en-
wed still alon^r
je of the morii-
We continue:!
ifter ?.n interval
reappearec' in
•ed with colton-
another of the
Here a party
), poor and hun-
;h the character
3 were bows of
d a large gourd,

1814.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAIlIlAriVK.

161

strengthened with meshes of cord, in which
ho carried water. They proved to be tho
Mohalivo Indians mentioned by our recent
guide ; and from one of them who spoke
Spanish fluently, I obtained some interesting
information, which I would be glad to intro-
duce hero. An account ot the people inha-
liiting this region would undoubtedly possess
interest for tho civilized world. Our journey
homeward was fruitful in incident; and the
coiMitry through which we travelled, although
a desert, allorded much to excite the curiosi-
ty of tho iKjtauist; but limited time, and the
rapidly advancing season for active opera-
tions, oblige me to omit all extended descrip-
tions, and liurry briefly to the conclusion of
this report.

The Indian who spoke Spanish had been
educated for a number of years at one of the
Spanish missions, and, at the breaking np of
tl'.ose establishments, had returned to the
mountains, where he had been found by a
party of Mohahve (sometimes called Amu-
chaba) Indians, among whom he had ever
since resided.

He spoke of the leader of the present par-
ty as " mi amo " (my master). lie said they
lived upon a large river in the southeast,
which the " soldiers called the Rio Colora-
do ;" but that, formerly, a portion of them
lived upon this river, and among the moun-
tains which had bounded the river valley to
the northward during the day, and that here
iking the river they had raised various kinds
>f melons. They sometimes came over to
trade with the Indians of the Sierra, bringing
with them blankets and goods manufactured
by the Monquis and other Colorado Indians.
They rarely carried home horses, on account
of the difficulty of getting them across the
desert, and of guarding them afterwards
from the Pa-utan Indians, who inhabit the
Sierra, at the head of the Rio Virgen (river
of the Virgin.)

He informed us that, a short distance be-
low, this river finally disappeared. The two
different portions in which water is found had
received from the priests two different names ;
and subsequently I heard it called by the
Spaniards the Rio de las Animas, but on the
map we have called it the Mohahve river.

April 24. — We continued down the stream
(or rather its bed) for about eight miles,
where there was water still in several holes,
and encamped. The caravans sometimes
continue below, to the end of the river, from
which there is a very long Jornada of per-
haps sixty miles, without water. Here a
singular and new species of acacia, with spi-
ral pods or seed vessels, made its first appear-
ance ; becoming henceforward, for a consi-
derable distance, a characteristic tree. It
was here comparatively large, being about
120 feet in height, with a full and spreading

top, tho lower branches declining towards
the ground. It afterwards occurred of smaller
size, frequently in groves, and is very fra-
grant. It has been call(>d by Dr. Torrey
spiroliibinm odoratnm. The zygophyllacooiiM
shrub had been constantly characteristic of
the plains along the river; and here, among
many new plnnts, a new and very remarka-
ble species of eringonum (erini^onum ivjla-
linn, Von. &l Frem.) made its first appear-
ance.

Our cattle had become so tired and poor
by this fatiguing travelling, that three of
them were killed here, and the nieat dried.
The Indians had now an occasion for a great
feast, and were occupied the remainder of
the day and all the night in cooking and eat-
ing. There was no part of the animal for
which they did not find some use, except the
bones. In the afternoon we were surprised
by the sudden appearance in the camp of two
Mexicans — a man and a boy. The name of
the man was Andreas Fxientes; and that of
the boy (a handsome lad, 11 years old), Pa-
blo Hernandez. They belonged to a party
consisting of six persons, the remaining four
being the wife of Fuentes, and the father
and mother of Pablo, and Santiago (iiacome,
a resident of New Mexico. With a caval-
cade of about thirty horses, they had come
out from Puebla de los Angeles, near the
coast, under the guidance of Giacome, in
advance ol the great caravan, in order to
travel more aJ leisure, and obtain better grass.
Having advanced as far into the desert as
was considered consistent with their saftty,
they halted at the Arrhilelte, one of the cus-
tomary camping gi nnds, about 80 miles
from our encampment, where there is a spring
of good water, with sufficient grass ; and
concluded to await there the arrival of the
great Caravan. Several Indians were soon
discovered lurking about the camp, who, in
a day or two after, came in, and, after behav-
ing in a very friendly manner, took their
leave, without awakening any suspicions.-
Their deportment begat a security which
proved fatal. In a few days afterwards, sud-
denly a party of about one hundred Indians
appeared in sight, advancing towards the
camp. It was too late, or they seemed not
to have presence of mind to take proper
measures of safety ; and the Indians charged
down into their camp, shouting as they ad-
vanced, and discharging flights of arrows.
Pablo and Fuentes were on norse guard at
the time, and mounted according to the
custom of the country. One of the princi-
pal objects of the Indians was to gel possee-
sion of the horses, and part of them imme-
diately surrounded the band ; but, in obedi-
ence to the shouts of Giacome, Fuentes drove
the animals over and through the assailasts,
in spite of their arrows; and, abandoning tha

1 '■il

«?'

i.'

'A !li'

162

CAI'T. FRKMONT'S NARRATIVE.

L1844.

reat to their fiitc, carried thorn off at speed
across the f>liiin. Knowing iJiat ihoy would
1)0 pursued by the Indiana, without making
any halt except to shift their saddles to other
horses, tiiey drove them on for about sixty
miles, and this morniMglel't them at a water-
ing place on the trail, called Agua de To-
niaso. Without giving themselves any time
foi rest, they hurried on, hoping to meet the
Spaiiish (^aravan, when they discovered my
camp. I received them kindly, taking them
into my own mess, and promised tliem such
aid as circumstances might put it in my
power to give.

Aiiril 25. — We left the river abruptly, nnd,
turning to the north, regained in a few miles
tJie main trail (which had left the river sooner
than ourselves), and continued our way
across a lower ridge of the mountain, through
a miserable tract of sand and gravel. We
crossed at intervals the broad bods of dry
gullies, where in the season of rains and
melting snows there would be brooks or rivu-
lets ; and at one of these, where there was
no iidication of water, were several freshly-
dug holes, in which there was water at the
depth of two feet. These holes had been
dug by the wolves, whose keen sense of smell
had scented the water under the dry sand.
They were nice little wells, narrow, and dug
straight down, and we got pleasant water
out of them.

The country had now assumed the cha-
racter of an elevated and mountainous de-
sert ; its general features being black, rocky
ridges, bald, and destitute of timber, with
sandy basins between. Where the sides of
these ridges are washed by gullies, the plains
below are strewed with beds of large pebbles
or rolled stones, destructive to our soft-footed
animals, accustomed to the grassy plains
of the Sacramento valley. Through these
sandy basins sometimes struggled a scanty
stream, or occurred a hole of water, which
furnished camping grounds for travellers.
Frequently in our journey across, snow was
visible on the surrounding mountains ; but
their waters rarely reached the sandy plain
below, where we toiled along, oppressed with
thirst and a burning sun. But, throughout
this nakedness of sand and gravel, were many
beautiful plants and flowering shrubs, which
occurred in many new species, and with
greater variety than we had been accustom-
ed to see in the most luxuriant prairie coun-
tries ; this was a peculiarity of this desert.
Even where no grass would take root, the
naked sand would bloom with some rich and
rare flower, which found its appropriate home
in the arid and barren spot.

Scattered over the plain, and tolerably
abundant, was a handsome leguminous shrub,
three or four feet high, with fine bright-pur-
plo floweta. It is a new psoralea, and oc-

curred frequently henceforward along our
road.

Beyond the first ridge, our road bore a lit-
tle to the east of north, towards a gap in a
highe'' line of mountains ; and, alter travel-
ling about twenty-live miles, wo arrived at
the AfTita de Tomnso — the spring whore the
horses had been left ; but, as we expected,
they were gone. A brief examination of the
ground convinced us that they had been
driven off by the Indians. Carson and
Godey vohmteered with the Mexiciin to pur-
sue them ; and, well motmted, the three set
off on the trail. At this stopping place there
were a few bushes and very little grass. Its
water was a pool ; but near by was a spring,
which had been dug out by Indians or trav-
ellers. Its water was cool — a great refresh-
ment to us under a burning sun.

In the evening Fuentes returned, his horse
having failed ; but Carson and Godey had
continued the pursuit.

I observed to-night an occiiltation of o'
Cancri, at the dark limb of the moon, which
gives for the longitude of the place 116"^ 23'
28"; the latitude, by.observation, is 36° 13'
08". From Helvetia to this place, the posi-
tions along the intervening line are laid down
with the longitudes obtained from the chro-
nometer, which appears to have retained its
rate remarkably well ; but henceforward, to
the end of the journey, the few longitudes
given are absolute, depending upon a subse-
quent occultation and eclipses of the satel-
lites.

In the afternoon of the next day, a war-
whoop was heard, such as Indians make
when returning from a victorious enterprise ;
and soon Carson and Godey appeared, driv-
ing before them a band of horses, recognized
by Fuentes to be part of those they had lost.
Two bloody scalps, dangling from the end of
Godey's gun, announced that they had over-
taken the Indians as well as the horses.
They informed us, that after Fuentes left
them, from the failure of his horse, they con-
tinued the pursuit alone, and towards night-
fall entered the mountains, into which the
trail led. After sunsefthe moon gave light,
and they followed the trail by moonshine
until late in the night, when it entered a nar-
row defile, and was difficult to follow. Afraid
of losing it in the darkness of the defile, they
tied up their horses, struck no firo, nnd lay
down to sleep in silence and in darkness.
Here they lay from midnight till morning.
At daylight they resumed the pnrMiit, ami
about sunrise discovered the horses ; and,
immediately dismounting and tying up their
own, they crept cautiously to a rising ground
which intervened, from the crest of which
they perceived the encampment of four lodges
close by. They proceeded quietly, and had
got within thirty or forty yards of their ob-

[1844.

1844.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

163

ong our

ore a lit*
<rap in a
r travel-
rrivcd at
/here the
[•xpocted,
ion of the
lad been
rson and
in to pur-

thrce pet
lace there
rass. Its

a spring,
is or trav-
it refresh-

, his horse
Jodey had

lion of o'
)on, which
ell6'* 23'
is 35" 13'
;, tlie posi-
I laid down
1 the chro-
etained it3
brward, to
longitudes
in a fiubsc-
the satel-

ay, a war-
ians make
criferprise ;
ared, driv-
recognizcd
■y had lost,
tlie end of
^ had over-
le horses,
ucntes left
, they con-
ards night-
which the
^ ve light,
moonshine
;ered a nar-
iw. Afraid
defile, they
•(?, and lay
darkness,
morning,
nnniit, and
)rsca ; and,
ng up their
ing ground
,t of which
four lodges
J', and had
if their ob-

ject, when a movement among the hor.ioa
ditfcovered them to the Indians; giving the
war shout, they instantly charged into the
camp, regardless of the iiiunher which the
fmir lodges would imply. The Indians re-
ceived them with a Hight of arrows shot
from their lung bows, one of which piissed
through (Jodey's shirt collar, barely missing
the neck ; our men fired their ri(k'.s upon a
steady aim, and rushed in. Two Indians
were stretched on the ground, fatally pierced
with bullets ; the rest lied, except a lad that
was captured. The scalps of the fallen
were instantly stripped off; but in the pro-
cess, one of them, who had two balls through
his body,sprnng to his feet, the blood stream-
ing from his skinned head, and uttering a
hideous howl. An old squaw, possibly his
mother, stopped and looked bacK from the
mountain side she was climbing, threatening
and lamenting. The frightful spectacle ap-
palled the stout hearts of our men ; but they
did what humanity required, and quickly ter-
minated the agonies of the gory savage.
They were now masters of the camp, which
was a pretty little recess in the mountain,
with a line spring, and apparently safe from
all invasion. Great preparationf had been
made to feast a large party, for it was a very
proper place for a rendezvous, and for the
celebration of such orgies as robbers of the
desert would delight in. Several of the best
horses had been killed, skinned, and cut up ;
for the Indians living in mountains, and only
coming into the plains to rob and murder,
make no other use of horses than to cat them.
Large earthen vessels were on the fire,boiling
and stewing the horse beef; and several bas-
kets, containing fifty or sixty pairs of mocca-
«ins, indicated the presence, or expectation,
of a considerable party. They released the
boy, who had given strong evidence of the
stoicism, or something else, of the savage
character, in commencmg his breakfast upon
a horse's head as soon as he found he was
not to be killed, but only tied as a prisoner.
Their object accomplished, our men gathered
up all the surviving horses, fifteen in number,
returned upon their trail, and rejoined us at our
camp in the afternoon of the same day. They
had rode about 100 miles in the pursuit and
return, and all in thirty hours. The time, place,
object, and numbers, considered, this expedi-
tion of Carson and Godey may be consiuered
among the boldest ancf most disinterested
which the annals of western adventure, so
full of daring deeds, can present. Two men,
in a savage desert, pursue day and night an
unknown body of Indians into the defiles of
tin unknown mountain — attack them on sight,
without counting numbers — and defeat them
in an instant — and for what ? To punish
the robbers of the desert, and to avenge the
wrongs of Mexicans whom they did not

know. I repeat ; it was Carson and Godey
who did this — the fornier an Amcrirnu, born
in the Uoonslick county of Missouri ; the lat-
ter a Frenchman, born in Kt. I,onis — and
both trained to western enterprise from early
life.

Ry the information of Fiicntos, wo had
now to make a long stretch of forty or fifty
miles across a pliiin whicii lay lK.'tween us
and the next possible camp ; and wo resum-
ed our journey late in the afternoon, with the
intention of travelling through the nitfht,
and avoiding the excessive heat of the day,
which was oppressive to our animals. For
several hours we travelled across a high
plain, passing, at the opposite side, through
a cafion by the bed of a creek running
northwardlij into a small lake beyond, and
both of them being dry. We had a warm,
moonshiny night ; and, travelling directly
towards the north star, we journeyed now
across an open plain between mountain
ridges ; that on the left being broken, rocky,
and bald, according to the information of
Carson and Godey, who had entered here in
pursuit of the horses. The plain appeared co-
vered principally with the zysofhyllum Call-
fiirnkum already mentioned ; and the line
of our road was marked by the skeletons of
horses, which were strewed to a considera-
ble breadth over the plain. We were after-
wards always warned, on entering one of
these long stretches, by the bones of these
animals, which had perished before they could
reach the water. About midnight we reach-
ed a considerable stream bed, now dry, the
discharge of the waters of this basin (when
it collected any), down which we descended
in a northu-eslerly direction. The creek
bed was overgrown with shrubbery, and se-
veral hours before day it brought us to the
entrance of a caiion, where we found water,
and encamped. This word caHon is used
by the Sjianiards to signify a defile or gorge
in a creek or river, where high rocks press
in close, and make a narrow way, usually
difllcult, and often impossible to be passed.

In the morning we found that we had a
very pour camping ground : a swampy,
salty spot, with a little long, unwholesome
grass ; and the water, which rose in springs,
being useful only to wet the mouth, but en-
tirely too salt to drink. All around was
sand and rocks, and skeletons of horses
which had not been able to find support for
their lives. As we were about to start, we
found, at the distance of a few hundred
yards, among the hills to the southward, a
spring of tolerably good water, which was a
relief to ourselves ; but the place was too poor
to remain long, and therefore we continued
on this morning. On the creek were thick-
ets of spirolobium odoratum (acacia) in
' bloom, and verj' fragrant.

' !\i?

|;ffl

Ifri

CAPT. i'REMONT'S NARRATIVE.

\\SU

Passuiff tliruiigh the canon, we entered
another sandy biinin, throiijjh which the dry
stream bod coiitiniied its northwesterly
course, in which direction appeared a high
•nowy mountain.

We travelled through a barren district,
where a heavy gale was blowing about
the loose sand, and, after a ride of eight
miles, reached a li<.rge creek of salt and bit-
ter water, running in a westerly direction,
to receive the stream bod we had left. It is
called by tlie Spaniards Amargosa — the bit-
ter water of the desert. Where we struck
it, the stream bends; and we contini;nd in a
northerly course up the ravine of its valley,
passing on the way a fork from the right,
near which occurred a bed of plants, con-
sisting of a remarkable new genus of cruci-
fercc.

Gradually ascending, the ravine opened
into a green valley, where, at the foot of the
mountain, were springs of excellent water.
We encamped among groves of the new
acacia, and there was an abundance of good
grass for the animals.

This was the best camping ground we had
seen since we struck the Spanish trail. The
day's journey was about twelve miles.

April 29. — To-day we had to reach the
Archilette, distant seven miles, where the
Mexican party had been attacked ; and leav-
ing our encampment early, we traversed a
part of the desert, the most sterile and repul-
sive that we had yet seen. Its prominent
features were dark sierrax, naked and dry ;
on the plains a few straggling shrubs —
among them, cactus of several varieties.
Fuentes pointed out one called by the Span-
iards bisnada, which has a juicy pulp, slight-
ly acid, and is eaten by the traveller to allay
thirst. Our course was generally north ;
and, after crossing an intervening ridge, we
descended into a sandy plain, orlmsin, in the
middle of which was the grassy spot, with
its springs and willow bushes, which consti-
tutes a camping place in the desert, and is
called the Archilette. The dead silence of
the place was ominous ; and, galloping ra-
pidly up, we found only the corpses of the
two men : everything else was gone. They
were naked, mutilated, and pierced with ar-
rows. Hernandez had evidently fought, and
with desperation. He lay in advance of the
willow half-faced tent, which sheltered his
family, as if he had come out to meet dan-
ger, and to repulse it from that asylum. One
of his hands, and both his legs, had been cut
off. Giacome, who was a large and strong
looking man, was lying in one of the willow
■belters, pierced with arrows. Of the
women no trace could be found, and it was
evident they had been carried ofF captive.
A little lap-dog, which had belonged to Pa-
blo's mother, remained with the dead bodies,

and was frantic with joy at seeing Pablo
ho, poor child, was frantic with grief ; and
filloil the air with lamentation.^ fur his tathor
and mother. Mi pailrr ' AH madn: ! — was
his incefl!>ant cry. When wo behold thiti
pitiable sight, and pictured to ourse'ves the
fate of the two women, carried off by sava-
ges so brutal and so loathnomo, all compunc-
tion for the scalped-alive Indian ceased ; and
we rejoiced that Carson and Godey liad been
able to give so useful a lesson to these
American Arabs, who lie in wait to murder
and plunder the innocent traveller.

VVe were all too much allected by the sad
feelings which the place inspired, to remain
an unnecessary moment. The niglit we
were obliged to pass there. Early in tlie
morning wo left it, having first written a
brief account of what had happened, and put
it in the cleft of a pole planted at the spnng,
that the approaching caravan might learn
the fate of their friends. In commemoration
of the event, we called the place Agua de
Ilei-nanuz — Hernandez's spring. By obser-
vation, its latitude was 35* 51' 21".

April 30. — We continued our journey over
a district similar to that of the day before.
From the sandy basin, in which was the
spring, we eHcrcd another basin of the same
cnaracter, surrounded everywhere by moun-
tains. Before us stretched a high range,
risinnr still hifrher to the left, and terminatini'
m a snowy mountam.

After a day's march of 24 miles, we reached
at evening the bed of a stream from which the
water had disappeared ; a little only remained
in holes, which we increased by dijrginji ;
and about a mile above, the stream, not yet
entirely sunk, was spread out over the .sands,
affording a little water for the animals. The
stream came out of the mountains on the
left, very slightly wooded with Cottonwood,
willow, and acacia, and a few dwarf oaks ;
and grass was nearly as scarce as water. A
plant with showy yellow flowers (Stanleija
integrifolia) occurred abundantly at intervals
for the last two days, and eriogonnm infla-
turn was among the characteristic plants".

May 1. — The air is rough, and overcoats
pleasant. The sky is blue, and the day
bright. Our road was over a plain, towards
the foot of the mountain ; zygophyllnm
Califomicum, now in bloom with a small
yellow flower, is characteristic of the coun-
try ; and cacti were very abundant, and in
rich fresh bloom, which wonderfully orna-
ments this poor country. We encamped at
a spring in the pass, which had been the
site of an old village. Hero we found excel-
lent grass, but very little water. We dug
out the old spring, and watered some of our
animals. The mountain here was wooded
very slightly with the nut pine, cedars, anH
a dwarf species of oak ; and among the

[1814

1844.J

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

! — was

fid tlUH

hich thP
remained
digging-;

not yet
le sands,
Is. The

on the

ttonwood,

rt oaks ;

water. A

Slanleija

intervals

inn infia-

ilauts.

overcoats

the day

towards
ophyllum

a small
he coun-
and in
Uy orna-
amped at
been the
■ind excel-

Wo dug

le of our
g wooded
dars, unH
inong the

thraha were Purshia Iridentala, artemisia,
And ephedra occitlcnialis. The niiinerouH
■hrubn which conxlitute the vegetation ef
the plains are now in bloom, with flowers of
white, yellow, red, and purple. The con-
tinual rockH, und want of water and grass,
begin to be very hard on our mules and
horses ; but the principal loss is occasioned
by their crippled feet, the greater part of
those left being in excellent order, and
■carcely a day passes without some los.^;
and, one by one, Fuoutes's horses are con-
stantly dropping behind. Whenever they
give out, he dismounts and cuts ofl'their IsiWa
and manes, to make saddle girths ; the last
advantage one can gain from them.

The next day, in a short but rough ride
of I'J miles, wo crossed the mountain; and,
descending to a small valley plain, encamped
at the loot of the ridge, on the bed of a creek,
where we found g(Mxl grass in suflicient
quantity, and abundance of water in holes.
The ridge is extremely rugged and broken,
presenting on this side a continued precipice,
and probably aflbrds very few passes. Many
digger tracks are seen around us, but no In-
diao.-* were visible.

Maj/ 3. — After a day's journey of 18 miles,
in a northeasterly direction, we encamped in
the midst of another very large basin, at a
camping ground called Ids Vegas — a term
which the Spaniards use to signify fertile or
marshy plains, in contradistinction to llanns,
which they apply to dry and sterile plains.
Two narrow streams of clear water, foui or
tive feet deep, gush suddenly, with a quick
current, from two singularly large springs ;
these, and other waters of the basin, pass out
in a gap to the eastward. The taste of the
water is good, but rather too warm to be
tgreeable; the temperature being 71° in the
one, and 73* in the other. They, however,
afforded a delightful bathing place.

May 4. — We started this morning earlier
than usual, travelling in a northeasterly di-
rection across the plain. The new acacia
(spirolobium odoratum) has now become the
characteristic tree of the country ; it is in
bloom, and its blossoms are very fragrant.
The day was still, and the heat, which soon
became very oppressive, appeared to bring
out strongly the refreshing scent of the
zygophyllac'eous shrubs and the sweet per-
fume of the acacia. The snowy ridge vve
had just crossed looked out conspicuously in
the northwest. In about five hours' ride, we
crossed a gap in the surrounding ridge, and
the appearance of skeletons of horses very
soon warned us that we were engaged in
another dry jomada, which proved the long-
est we Iiad made in all our journey — between
fifty and sixty miles without a drop of water.
Travellers through countries affording
water and timber can have no conception of

our intolerable thirst while journeying aver
the hot yellow sundH of this elevated conn*
try, where the heated air seems to be entire-
ly deprived of moisture. We ato occasion-
ally the bimada, and moistened our mouths
with the acid of the sour dock {rumex vemt-
siis). Hourly expecting to find water, we
continued to press on until towards midnight,
when, after a hard and uninterrupted march
of 16 hours, our wild mules began running
ahead ; and in a mile or two we came to a
bold running stream — so keen is the sense
of that animal, in these desert regions, in
scenting at a distance this necessary of life.

According to the information we had re-
ceived, Sevier river was a tributary of the
Colorado ; and this, accordingly, should have
been one of its affluents. It proved to be the
Rio d<: (os Angeles (river of the Angels) — a
branch of the liio Virgen (river of the Vir-
gin).

May 5. — On account of our animals, it
was necessary to remain to-day at this pluce.
Indians crowded numerously around us in
the morning; and we were obliged to keep
arms in hand all day, to keep them out of
the camp. They began to surround the
horses, which, for the convenience of grass,
we were guarding a little above, on the river.
These were immediately driven in, and kept
close to the camp.

In the darkness of the night we had made
a very bad encampment, our fires being
commanded by a rocky bluff within 60 yards ;
but, notwithstanding, we had the river and
small thickets of willows on the other side.
Several times during the day the camp was
insulted by the Indians; but, peace being our
object, I kept simply on the defensive. Some
of the Indiana were on the bottoms, and others
haranguing us from the bluffs ; and they were
scattered m every direction over the hills.
Their language being probably a dialect of
the Utah, with the aid of signs some of our
people could comprehend them very well.
They were the same people who had mur-
dered the Mexicans; and towards us their
disposition was evidently hostile, nor were
we well disposed towards them. They were
barefooted, and nearly naked ; their hair gath-
ered up into a knot behind ; and with his
I jw, each man carried a quiver with thirty
or forty arrows partially drawn out. Besides
these, each held in his hand two or three ar-
rows for instant service. Their arrows are
barbed with a very clear translucent stone, a
species of opal, nearly as hard as the dia-
mond ; and, shot from their long bow, are al-
most as effective as a gunshot. In these
Indians, I was forcibly struck by an exprss-
sion of countenance resembling that in a
beast of prey ; and all their actions are those
of wild animals. Joined to the restless mo-
tion of the eye, there is a want of mind — an

166

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1814.

abHonco of thought — and an action wholly
by impulao, strongly cxpressoil, and which
constantly recalls tho siiniliirity.

A man who appeared to be a chief, with
two or throe others, forced himaelf into camp,
bringing with liim his arm.^, in spito of my
orders to the contrary. When shown our
weapons, he bored his ear with his fingers,
and said ho could not hear. " Why," said
he, " there are none of you." Counting the
people around the camp, and including in the
nuinhor a mule which was being shod, he
made out 2i. " So many," said he, nhowing
tho number, " and we — we are a great
many ;" and he pointed to the hills and moun-
tains round about. " If you liavo your arms,"
said he, twanging his bow," we have these."
I had some difficulty in restraining the peo-
ple, particularly Carson, who felt an insult
of this kind as much as if it had been given
by a more responsible being. " Don't say
that, old man," said he ; " don't you say that
— your life's in danger " — speaking in good
English ; and probably the old man was
nearer to his end than he will be before he
meets it.

Several animals had been necessarily left
behind near the camp last night ; and early
in the morning, before the Indians made their
appearance, several men were sent to bring
them in. When I was beginning to be un-
easy at their absence, they returned witli in-
lorniiition that tlipy had boen driven off from
the trail by Indians ; and, having followed
t!io tracks in a short distance, they found the
animals cut up and spread out upon bushes.
In the evening I gavo a fatigued horse to
some of tlie Indians for a feast ; and the vil-
lage which carried him off refused to share
with the others, who made loud complaints
from the rocks of the partial distribution.
Many of these Indians had long sticks, hook-
ed at the end, which tiiey used in hauling out
lizards, and other small animals, from their
holes. During the day they occasionally
roasted and ate lizards at our iires. These
belong to the people who are generally known
under the name of Diggers ; and to these I
have more particularly had reference when
occasionally speaking of a people whose sole
occupation is to procure food sufficient to
support existence. The formation here con-
sists of fine yellow sandstone, alternating with
a coarse conglomerate, in which the stones
are from the size of ordinary gravel to six or
eight inches in diameter. This is the forma-
tion which renders the surface of the coun-
try so rocky, and gives us now a road alter-
nately of loose heavy sands and rolled stones,
which cripple the animals in a most extraor-
dinary manner.

Un the following morning we left the Rio
de los Angeles, and continued our way through
the same desolate and revolting country,

where lizardii were the only animal, and the
tracks of the li/ard catern the principal sign
of human l)eing8. After twenty miles'
march through a rond of hills and heavy
sands, wo reached the most dreary river I
have ever seen — a deep rapid stream, almost
a torrent, nassing swiftly by, and roaring
against obstructions. Tho banks were
wooded with willow, acacia, and a frequent
plant of tho country already mentioned
(Garrya elliptica), growing in thickets, re-
sembling willow, and bearing a small pink
flower. Crossing it, we encamped on tho
left bank, where we found a very little grass.
Our three remaining steers, being entirely
given out, were killed here. By the boiling
point, the elevation of the river here is 4,0G0
feet; and latitude, by observation, 36" 41'
33". The stream was running towards the
southwest, and appeared to come from a
snowy mountain in the north. It proved to
be the Rio Virgen — a tributary to the Colo-
rado. Indians appeared in bands on the hills,
but did not come into camp. For several
days we continued our journey up the river,
the bottoms of which were thickly overgrown
with various kinds of brush ; and the sandy
soil was absolutely covered with the tracks
of Diggers, who followed us stealthily, like
a band of wolves ; and we had no opportunity
to leave behind, even for a few liours, the
tired animals, in order that they might be
brought into camp after a little repuso. A
hoise or mule, left l)ehind, was taken off in a
moment. On the evening of the 8tli, having
travelled 28 miles up the river from our first
encampment on it, we encamped at a little
grass plat, where a spring of cool water is-
sued from the bluff. On the opposite side
was a grove of cottonwoods at the mouth of
a fork, which hero enters the river. On ei-
ther side the valley is bounded by ranges of
mountains, everywhere high, rocky, and
broken. The caravan road was lost and
scattered in the sandy country, and we had
been following an Indian trail up the river.
The hunters the next day were sent out to
reconnoitre, and in the meantime we moved
about a mile farther up, where we found a
good little patch of grass. There being only
sufficient grass for the night, the horses
were sent with a strong guard in charge of
Tabeau to a neighboring hollow, where they
might pasture during the day ; and, to be
ready in case the Indians should make any
attempt on the animals, several of the best
horses were picketed at the camp. In a few
hours the hunters returned, having found a
convenient ford in the river, and discovered
the Spanish trail op 'he other side.

I had been engaged in arranging plants ;
and, fatigued with the heat of the day, I fell
asleep in the afternoon, and did not awake
until sundown. Presently Carson came to

1844.1

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

I(i7

me, and reported that Tnbcaii, who early in
the day had left hin poet, and, without my
knowledge, rode back to the camp wo had
left, in Hparcli of a lame mule had not re-
turned, While we were cpcakinjr, a smoke
rose B\iddenly from the cottonwood grove l)o-
low, which plainly told us what hau befallen
him ; it was raised to inform the surround-
ing Indiana that a blow had been struck, and
to toil Uwm to bo on their guard. Carson,
with scvprnl men well mounted, was instantly
sent down the river, but returned in the night
without tidings of the missing nian. They
went to the camp \vc had left, but neither he
nor the mule was there. Searching down
the river, they found the tracks of the mule,
evidently driven along by Indians, whose
tracks were on each side of those made by
the animal. After going several miles, they
came to the mule itself, standing in some
bushes, mortally wounded in the side by an
arrow, and left to die, that it might be after-
wards butchered for food. They also found,
in another place, as they were hunting about
on the ground for Tabeau's tracks, some-
thing that looked like a little puddle of blood,
but which the darkness prevented them from
verifying. With these details they returned
to our camp, and their report saddened all our
hearts.

Maj/ 10. — This morning as soon as there
was light enough to follow tracks, I set out
myself, with Mr. Fitzpatrick and several
men, in search of Tabeau. We went to
the spot where the appearance of puddled
blood had been seen ; and this, we saw at
once, had been the place whore he A^'^ and
died. Blood upon the leaves, and beaten
down bushes, showed that he bad got his
wound about twenty paces from where he
fell, and that he had struggled for his life.
He had probably been ahot through the
lungs with an arrow F'om the place where
he lay and bled, it could he seen that he had
been dragtred to the river bank, and thrown
into it. r^o vestige of what had belonged to
him could be found, except a fragment of his
hor.se equipment. Horse, gun, clothes — all
became the prey of these Arabs of the New
World.

Tabeau had been one of our best men,
and his unhappy death spread a gloom ovei
our party. Men, who have gone through
such dangers and sufferings as we had seen,
become like brothers, and feel each other's
lo6s. To defend and avenge each other, is
the deep feeling of all. We wished to
avenge his death ; but the condition of our
horses, languishing for grass and repose,
forbade an expedition into unknown moun-
tains. We knew the tribe who had done
the mischief — the same which had been in-
sulting our camp. They knew what they
deserved, {\nd had the discretion to show

themselves to us no more. The day l)efor©,
they infested our camp; now, not one ap-
peared ; nor did wo ever afterwards see but
one who even belonged to the same tribe,
and he at a distance.

Our camp was in a basin below a deep
canon — a gap of two thousand feet deep in
the mountain — through which the Wi« Virffen
passes, and where no man or beast could
foil w it. The Spanish trail, which we had
lost in the sands of the basin, was on the
opfiosite side of tho river. We crossed over
to it, and followed it northwardly towards a
gap which was visible in the mountain. We
approached it by n defile, rendered difHcult
for our barefooted animals by the rocks
strewed along it ; and here the country
changed its cliaractcr. From the time we
entered tho desert, the mountains had been
bald and rocky ; here they began to be wood-
ed with cedar and pine, and clusters of trees
gave shelter to birds — a now and welcome
sight — which could not have lived in the
desert we had passed.

Descending a long hollow, towards tho
narrow valley of a stream, we saw before us
a snowy mountain, far beyond which ap-
peared another more lofty still. Good bunch
grass began to appear on the hill sides, and
here we found a singular variety of inter-
esting shrubs. Tho changed appearance of
the country infused among our people a
more lively spirit, which was heightened
by finding at evening a halting place of very
good grass on the clear waters of the Santa
Clara fork of the Rio Virgen.

May 11. — Tho morning was cloudy and
quite cool, with a shower of rain — the first
we have had since entering the desert, a pe-
riod of twenty-seven days ; and wo seem to
have entered a difTorent climate, with the
usual weather of the Rocky mountains.
Our march to-day was very laborious, over
very broken ground, along the Santa Clara
river ; but then the country is no longer so
distressingly desolate. The stream is pret-
tily wooded with sweet cottonwood trees^
some of them of large size ; and on the hills,
where the nut pine is often seen, a good and
wholesome grass occurs frequently. This
cottonwood, which is now in fruit, is of a
different species from any in Michaux's Sylva:
Heavy dark clouds covered the sky in the
evening, and a cold wind sprang up, making
fires and overcoats comfortable.

May 12. — A little above our encampment,
the river forked ; and we continued up the
right-hand branch, gradually ascending to-
wards the summit of the mountain. As we
rose towards tho head of the creek, the
snowy mountain on our right showed out
handsomely — high and rugged with preci-
pices, and covered with snow for about two
thousand feet from their summits down.

CAPr. FKKMONTS NAItUATIVK.

[IS44.

Our anlmala wore iomowliat. rcpaiJ for thoir
hard marches by an excellent camping ground

Stho iiimmit of the ridge, which forum hero
B dividing chain between the waters of the
Rio Viraen, which goes Houth to the (.'olora-
do, and those of Sevier river, flowing north-
wardly, and belonging to the (treat DnHin.
We considered oiirBOlvei an crossing the rim
of the banin ; and, entering it at this point, we
found here an extensive mountain meadow,
rich in bunch graaa, and fresh with numerous
ipringfl of clear water, all refreshing and
delightful to look upon. It was, in fact, that
las Vegas dc Santa Clara, wliich had been
BO long presented to us as the terminating
point of the desert, and where the nnnuai
caravan from California to Now Mexico
halted and recruited for some weeks. It
was a very suitable place to recover from
the fatigue and exhaustion of a month's
BDtTering in the hot and sterile desert. The
meadow was about a mile wide, and some
ten miles long, bordered by grassy hills and
mountains — some of the latter rising two
thousand feet, and white with snow down to
the level of the vegaa. Its elevation above
the sea was 5,280 feet ; latitude, by obser-
▼ation, 37" 28' 28" ; and its distance from
where we first struck the Spanish trail about
four hundred miles. Counting from the
time we reached the desert, and began to
flkirt, at our descent from Walker's Pass in
the Sierra Nevada, we had travelled 650
miles, occupying twenty-seven days, in that
inhospitable region. In passing before tlie
great caravan, we had the advantage of
finding more grass, but the disadvantage of
finding also the marauding savages, who
had gathered down upon the trail, waiting
the approach of that prey. This greatly
increased our labors, besides costing us the
life of an excellent man. We had to move
all day in a state of watch, and prepared
for combat — scouts and flankers out, a front
and rear division of our men, and baggage
animals in the centre. At night, camp duty
was severe. Those who had toiled all day,
had to guard, by turns, the camp and the
horses, all night. Frequently one third of
the whole party were on guard at once;
and nothing but this vigilance saved us
from attack. We were constantly dog-

Sed by bands, and even whole tribes of
le marauders ; and although Tabeau
was killed, and our camp infested and
insulted by nome, while swarms of them
remained on the hills and mountain sides,
there was manifestly a consultation and cal-
culation going on, to decide the question of
attacking us. Having reached the resting
place of the Vegas de Santa Clara, we had
complete relief from the heat and privations
of the desert, and some relaxation from the
sererity of camp duty. Some relaxation,

and reliixjition only — for camp guards, horse
guardM, and scouts, are indlNpnnsable from
the time of leaving the frontiers of Missouri
until we return to thnm.

After wo left the Vet^as, wc had the grati-
fication to bo joinurl by the famous hunter
and tr.'ipnor, Mr. Joseph Walker, whom I
have beturo mentioned, and who now ba>
caniu our guide. Ho had left California
with the great caravan ; and perceiving,
from the signs along the trail, that there
was a party of whites ahead, which ho
judged to bo mine, ho detached himself
from the caravan, with eight men, (Ameri-
cans,) and ran the gauntlet of the deser*
robbers, killing two, and getting some of th<
horses wounded, and succeeded in overta-
king us. Nothing but his groat knowledge
of tne country, great courage and presence
of mind, and good rifles, could have brought
him safe from such a perilous enterprise.

May 13. — Wo remained one day at this
noted place of rest and refreshment ; and,
resuming our progress in a northeastwardly
direction, we descended into a broad valley,
♦ho water of which is tributary to Sovier
lake. The next day we came in sight of
the Wah-satch range of mountains on the
right, white with snow, and here forming
the southeast part of the Great Basin.
Sevier lake, upon the waters of which we
now were, belonged to the system of lakes
in the eastern part of the Basin — of which,
the Great Salt lake, and its southern limb,
the Utah lake, were the principal — towards
tho region of which we were now approach-
ing. We travelled for several days in this
direction, within the rim of the Great Basin,
crossing little streams which bore to the left
for Sevier l&ke ; and plainly seeing, by the
changed aspect of the country, that we were
entirely clear of \he desert, and approaching
the regions which appertained to the sys-
tem of the Rocky moomains. We met, in
this traverse, a few mounted Utah Indians,
in advance of their main body, watching the
approach of the great caravan.

May 16. — ^We reached a small salt lake,
about seven miles long and one broad, at the
northern extremity of which we encamped
for the night. This little lake, which well
merits its characteristic name, lies imme-
diately at the base of the Wah-satch range,
and nearly opposite a gap in that chain of
mountains through which the Spanish trail
passes ; and which, again falling upon the
waters of the Colorado, and crossing that
river, proceeds over a mountainous country
to Santa F6.

Mat/ 17. — After 440 miles of travelling
on a trail, which served for a road, we again
found ourselves under the necessity of ex-
ploring a track through the wilderness.
The Spanish trail had borne oflT to the

1844.]

CAI»T. FREMONT'S NARUATIV'E.

100

•outhoaMt, croBHing the VVuh-iiiilcli ranK<!.
Our courae led to tlic iiortliuakt, ulutig the
foot of that range, mid leaving it un the
right. The mountain preaontcd itnelf to uh
under th>. i'orui of neveral ridgea, riding one
above tlio othor, rocky, and wooded with
pine and cedar ; tlic lattt ridge covered with
anew. Sevier river, flowing nortliwardly to
the lake of the aaine name, collects ita prin-
cipal watora from this section of the Wah-
satch chain. We had now entered a region
of great pastoral promise, abounding with
fine streams, the rich bunuli grass, soil that
would produce wheat, and indigenous flax
growing as if it had been sown. Consistent
with the general character of its bordering
mountains, this fertility of soil and vegeta-
tion does not extend far into the Great
Dasin. Mr. Joseph Walker, our guide, and
who has more knowledge of these parts than
any man I know, informed me that all the
country to the left was unknown to him,
and that even the Digger tribes, which fre-
quented Lake Sevier, could tell him nothing
about it.

May 20.— We met u band of Utah In-
dians, headed by a well-known chief, who
had obtained the American or English
name of Walker, by which he is quoted
and well known. They were all mounted,
armed with rifles, and use their rifles well.
'Tiio chief had a fusee, which he had carried
8iung, in addition to his rifle. They were
journeying slowly towards the Spanish trail,
to levy their usual tribute upon the great
Californian caravan. They were robbers
of a higher order than those of the desert.
They conducted their depredations with
form, and under the color of trade and toll
for passing through their country. Instead
of attacking and killing, they alfect to pur-
chase — taking the horses they like, and giv-
ing something nominal in return. The
chief was quite civil to me. He was per-
sonally acquainted with his namesake, our
guide, who made my name known to him.
He knew of my expedition of 1842 ; and,
as tokens of friendship, and proof that we
had met, proposed an interchange of pres-
ents. We had no great store to choose out
of; so he gave me a Mexican blanket, and
I gave him a very fme one which I had ob-
tained at Vancouver.

May 23. — We reached Sevier river — the
main tributary of the lake of the same name
— which, deflecting from its northern course,
here breaks from the mountains to enter the
lake. It was really a fine river, from eight
to twelve feet deep ; and, after searching in
vain for a fordable place, we made little
boats (or, rather, rafts) out of bulrushes,
and ferried across. These rafts are readily
made, and give a good conveyance across a
liver. The rushes are bound in bundles.

and tied hard ; tiio buudlun are tied down
upon polos, as closo as tbvy can bo pressed,
and fashioned like a boat, in bving broader
in tliu middle and pointed at the ends. The
rushes, being tubular and jointed, aru light
and strong. The raft swims well, and m
shoved aloug by poles, or paddled, or puslied
and pulled by swimmers, or drawn by ropes.
On this occasion, we used ropes — one sit
each end — and rapidly drew our little float
backwards and forwards, from siioro to
shore. The horses swam. At our place
of crossing, which was the most northern
point of its bend, the latitude was 39 J 22'
10". The banks sustained the charactej
for fertility and vegetation which we had
seen for some days. The name of this
river and lake was an indication of our ap-

()roach to regions of which our people had
•een the explorera. It was probably named
after some American trapper or hunter, and
was the first American name we had met
with since leaving the Columbia river.
From the Dalles to the point where we
turned across the Sierra Nevada, near 1,000
miles, we heard Indian names, and the
ereater part of the distance none ; from
Nueva Helvetia (Sacramento) to las Vegas
de Santa Clara, about 1,000 more, all were
Spanish ; from the Mississippi to the Pa-
cific, French and American or English
were intermixed ; and this prevalence of
names indicates the national character of
the first explorers.

We had here the misfortune to lose one of
our people, J'raiKjois Badeau, who had been
with me in both expeditions ; during which
he had always been one of my most faithful
and eflicient men. He was killed in drawing
towards him a gun by the muzzle ; the ham-
mer being caught, discharged the gun, dri-
ving the ball through his head. We buried
him on the banks of the river.

Crossing the next day a slight ridge along
the river, we entered a handsome mountain
valley covered with fine grass, and directed
our course towards a high snowy peak, at
the foot of which lay the Utah lake. On
our ri^ht was a bed of high mountains, their
summits covered with snow, constituting the
dividing ridge between the Basin waters
and those of the Colorado. At noon, we fell
in with a party of Utah Indians coming out
of the mountain, and in the afternoon en-
camped on a tributary to the lake, which ia
separated from the waters of the Sevier by
very slight dividing grounds.

Early the next day we came in sight of
the lake ; and, as we descended to the
broad bottoms of the Spanish fork, three
horsemen were seen galloping towards us,
who proved to be Utah Indians — scouts
from a village, which was encamped near
the mouth of the river. They were armed

CAI'T. FRF.MONT'S NAUU.VTIVK.

[1844.

with riflflfl, aud their horirii worn in (^noil
eoiidition. We cncaniiiffd rieiir thnin, on the
fipaniiili fork, which m onn of tho principal
tribiitariea to the lake. Finding tliu IndianH
troiil>l(<iioinr, und dpniroua to remain hrrn ii
day, wo runiovod tho next mornint; farthor
down tho lake, and rncanipod on a fortilo
bottom near the foot of tho name moiintain-
niiH ridffo which bordcrn tho (Jrcat Salt
lakp, and alon)( which wo had Journoy<'d tho
proviouH .Septombor. Hero tho principal
plants in bloom wore two, which wcro ro-
markalilo an alTordint; to tho Snako Indian^
—the one an abundant supply of food, and
tho other the most uauful amonp th') nnpli-
oatiuns which thoy use for wounds. Thuso
were tho kooyah plant, ffrowiny in fields of
txtraordinary luxuriance, and couvollaria
itellttta, which, from the experience of Mr.
Walker, is the best remedial plant known
amonK those Indians. A few miles below
us was another village of Indians, from
which we obtained some fish — among them
a few salmon trout, which were very much
inferior in size to those along the Califor-
nian mountains. The season for taking
them had not yet arrived ; but the Indians
were daily expecting them to oome up out
of the lake.

Wo had now accomplished an object wo
had in view when leavmg tho Dalles of the
Columbia in November last : wo had reach-
ed the Utah lake ; but by a route very dif-
ferent from what we had intended, and
without sufficient time remaining to make
tho examinations which were desired. It
is a lake of note in this country, under the
dominion of the Utahs, who resort to it for
fish. Its greatest breadth is about 15 miles,
stretching far to the north, narrowing as it

((oos, and connecting with the Great Salt
ake. This is the report, and which I be-
lieve to be correct ; but it is fresh water,
while the other is not only salt, but a satu-
rated solution of salt ; and here is a problem
which requires to be solved. It is almost
entirely surrounded by mountains, walled on
the north and east by a high and snowy
range, which supplies to it a fan of tributa-
ry streams. Among these, the principal
river is the Timpan-ogo — signifying Rock
river — a name which the rocky grandeur of
its scenery, remarkable even in this coun-
try of rugged mountains, has obtained for it
from the Indians. In the Utah language,
og-wdh-be, the term for river, when cou-
pTed with other words in common conversa-
tion, is usually abbreviated to ogo ; timpan
signifying rock. It is probable that this
river furnished the name which on the older
maps has been generally applied to the
Great Salt lake ; but for this I have prefer-
red a name which will be regarded as high-
ly oharacteriatio, restricting to the river the

deaoriptivo t*^rm Timpnn-ngn, and looving
for tho I aUo inio which it flown tho niiiiio of
lh« people who roaiilo on itn chores, and by
which It 18 known throughout the country.

'I'ho volumn of wator nfTordod by tho
Timpiiii ogo is probably oqiial to that of the
Sfivicr rivor ; and, at tho timo of our visit,
there wwn only one pliico in the liiko valloy
at which the SpaniNn fork was fordabltt. In
tlx' cove of mountains along its caMtcrn
Hhoro, thtt lake is bordered by a plain, whom
tho soil is gont^rally good, anti in groiitor
part fertile ; watered by a delta of prettily
timbered nUeams. This wnuhl bo an ox
ccllont locality for stock farma ; it is gener-
ally covered with good bunch grasn, and
would abundantly produce tho ordinary
grains.

In arriving at ths Utah lake, we had com-
pleted an immense circuit of twelve dogreea
diameter north and south, and ten degrees
east and west ; and found ourselves, in May,
1814, on the same sheet of water which we
had hf' in September, 1843. The Utah is
the lorn limb of the Great Salt lake ;

and thu.^ we had seen that remarkable sheet
of water both at its northern and southern
extremity, and were able to fix its position
at these two points. The rircuif which wo
had mode, and which had cost us eight
months of timo, and 3,600 miles of travel-
ling, had given us a view of Oregon and of
North California from the Rocky mountains
to the Pacific ocean, and of the two princi-
pal streams whicb form bays or harbors on
the coast of that sea. Having completed
this circuit, and being now about to turn
the back upon the Pacific slope of our con-
tinent, and to recro^s the Rocky mountains,
it is natural to look back upon our footuteps,
and take some britf view of the leading
features and general structure of the coun-
try we had traversed. These are peculiar and
striking, and differ essentiallv from the At-
lantic side of our country. The mountains
all are higher, more numerous, and more
distinctly defined in their ranges and direc-
tions ; and, what is so contrary to the natu-
ral order of such formations, one of these
ranges, which is near the coast, (the Sierru
Nevada and the Coast Range,) presents
higher elevations and peaks than any which
are to be found in the Rocky mountains
themselves. In our eight months' circuit,
we were never out of sight of snow ; and
the Sierra Nevada, where we crossed it,
was near 2,000 feet higher than the South
Pass in the Rocky mountains. In height,
these mountains greatly exceed those of the
Atlantic side, constantly presenting peaks
which enter the region of eternal snow ;
and some of them volcanic, and in a fre-
quent state of activity. They are seen at

t.^

1844.]

(AIT. I'UlIMON'rs NAUUATIVE.

171

creut dintuncut, uml kukIu lliu traveller in
nU cuurata.

Tliti cuurtnu ;iii(i iluvulioii of titittic raiiKeit
ffivo (liri'ftiun to tliu iivotm uiuI t-lmriietur to
ttio <'i)UHi. N>, Kit'iit iivur (ItiL'H, or euii, tiiko
it« iisu liuluvv tliu CiUfiido uiiil .Sii^riu Nu-
vadu lAUiH'- ; tliti distaiieu to lliu mui lii too
aliort to udiiiit of It, Tliu rivi;rs of tlm San
KruiiciiM ) buy, which uro tliu laij(t'»t iil'icr
the Ctduinbiii, uru liioiil to tiuit Iniy, utui
liitcrul to iho ciiiiHt, liiivinK lluijr auurci'H
about on a Itnu with thu Dulles of the (-'o-
lumbia, and runiiiii)j each in a valley of iln
own, between Cuaot ran(;u and thi; ('ancade
uiid Sji'rra Ncvaiia ran(;<*. The ( 'oluinbia
ts tlio (inly river which traveitten the whole
breadth of the cmiiitry, breaking through
all the raiigea, and entering the sea. Draw-
ing ilM waters from u seetion of ten de-
^'riteu of latitude in the Hucky rnountuiiis,
which uro collected into one atreani by
ihree main forka (Lewib'a, Clark's, and the
North fork) near llio centre uf the Oregon
valley, thia great river thcncu proceeds by
u single channel to the sea, while its three
forktt lead each to a puas in the mountains,
which opens the way into the interior of
the continent. This fact in relation to the
rivers of thia region gives an imincnsu val-
ue to tho Columbia. Its moulli is the only
iHlet and outlet to and from the aca ; its
three forks lead to tho paasea in the moun-
laina ; it is therefore the only line of com-
munication between the Pacific and the in-
terior of North America ; and all operations
of war or commerce, of national or social
intercourse, must be conducted upon it.
This givea it a value beyond estimation, and
would involve irreparable injury if lost. In
this unity and concentration of its waters,
tho I'aeilic side of our continent diflers en-
tirely from the Atlantic aide, where the
waters of tho Alleghany mountains are dis-
persed into many rivers, having their difTer-
ent entrances into the sea, and opening
many lines of communication with the in-
terior.

The Pacific coast is equally dilTerent
■fom that of the Atlantic. The coast of
the Atlantic is low and open, indented with
numerous bays, sounds, and river estuaries,
accessible everywhere, and opening by many
channels into the heart of the country. The
Pacific coast, on the contrary, is high and
compact, with few bays, and but one that
opens into the heart of the country. The
immediate coast is what the seamen call
tron bound. A little within, it is skirted
by two successive ranges of mountains,
standing as ramparts between the sea and
the interior country ; and to get through
which, there is but one gate, and that nar-
row and easily defended. This structure
of the coast, backed by these two ranges of

tnouiitaliia, with its concAntralion and unity
of wutriN, givfH to ihij couiiirv an iiiiuicine
niihtaiy nlrciitjtli, and will |iitil).tbly niiilor
Ort'^on the luoul iinpngiiable country tn
till) w«irld.

Ditl'iuing NO iniirh from thn Atlantic Hide
<if our continent, in roai>t, luountaiii.i, ikud
rivers, thu Paciliu utile dillcra from u in
atiolli'i' iiiottt raid and Niugular fi.iliire —
that »f lliii (ircat iiilcrior liaMiii, of ulm h I
liiivo MO often spoken, and the whole form
and character of which I was «o anxioun to
UMoertain. Its uxiotciicc nt voui^hcd for by
such of the American traders and huuti-rs
as have soiiio kiiuwitidge of that region ;
tln! Htructiiro of the fciierra Nevud.i range
of mountains re({uiro« it to be there ; and
my own observations conlirm it. Mr.
Joseph Walker, who is so widl aiMjuaiiited
in those parts, informed mu that, t'loin thu
Great Salt lake west, there was a suecca-
Nion of lakes and rivers which have no
outlet to tho sea, nor any connection with
the ('idumbia, or with the (Colorado of the
(iulf of ('alifornia. He described some
of these lakes as being largo, with iiuiiktous
streams, and even considerable rivers,
falling into them. In fact, all concur in
tho general report of thcae interior rivers
and Takea ; niid, for want of understanding
tho force aii>i power of evaporation, which
ao soon establishes an G(|uilibrium between
tho loss and supply of waters, the table of
whirljionis and subterraneous outlets has
gained belief, as the only imaginable way
of carrying off the waters which have no
visible discharge. The structure of the
country would require this formation of in-
terior lakes ; for the waters which would
collect between the Rocky mountains and
tho Sierra Nevada, not being able to cross
this formidable barrier, nor to get to the
Columbia or the Colorado, must naturally
collect into reservoirs, each of which would
have its little system of streams and rivers
to supply it. This would bo the natural
effect ; and what I saw went to confirm it.
The Great Salt lake is a formation of
this kind, and quite a large one ; and hav-
ing many streams, and one considerable
river, four or five hundred miles long,
falling into it. This lake and river I saw
and examined layself; and also saw the
Wah-satch and Bear River mountains which
enclose the waters of the lake on the east,
and constitute, in that quarter, the rim of
the Great Ilasin. Afterwards, along the
eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, where
we travelled for forty-two days, I saw the
line of lakes and rivers which lie at tke
foot of that Sierra ; and which Sierra is
the western rim of the Basin. In going
down Lewis's fork and the main Columbia,
1 crossed only inferior streams coming in

171)

CAIT. FKKMONT'S NAKUAi'lVE.

[1844.

rrnin tUf IrO, aurh M cotiM draw ihcir
WKti'r rriim a ahnrt ilmtotii'ii only ; iitul I
oUeii pi:ivv lliu niiiiiiitaiiia nt lliiMr hnnilii,
wliitr Willi arum ; mIiioIi, all aoeiiuiiU Haul,
(livntrd ihii wutnra of thn darrl from Ihoae
of til" ( oliiiiiliia, Aiiil which cniiid ho no
oiiiri timii tint raiii(r of nioiinlaiiiN which
ruriii ilii> run of llin Daniii on ita northt^rn
Kiiliv Ami in rrliirninK from California
aloiii; tlio .S|)aiiiHli trnil, aa far ua thn h><ail
of tli(( Santa Clara fork of tlio Hio VirK«n,
1 croaaod only amall atruama making llxur
way Noiitli to tliu Colorado, or loat in aand —
KM thi] Mo-hah-vn ; wliilo to thn N'ft, loHy
luoiintaina, thiiir aiininiita white with xnow,
woru o|\(Mi viaiblfl, and which niitat have
turned watvr to thn north aa wolt aa to thn
aoiith, and thua vonatitiitt'd, on thin part,
till' aiiiithf'rn rim of tho llaain. At the
hitad of ihn Santa Clara fork, and in tho
Vo;ra8 do Sanla Clara, wn croaat'd tho
ridgo which parted tho two ayatnna of
waters. Wo entered tho Haam nt that

Iioint, and have trnvellod in it over aiiice,
lavinij ila aouthoaatorn rim (tho VVah-aatoh
mountain) on the right, and croaHiiig tho
•Iroama which flow down into it. Tho cx-
iatonoo uf tho Haaiii ia therefore an catah-
lislied fact in my mind ; ita extent and cnn-
tenta arc yet to hn hcttor aacertaincd. It
cannot bo loaa than four or five hundred
tnilea each way, and muat lio principallv in
the Alta (Jalifornia ; the doniarcation lati-
tude of i2^ probably cutting a sogmeut
fiom tho noilli part of tho rim. Of ita in-
terior, but littln ia known. It ia called a
desert, and, from what I aaw of it, sterility
may be its prominent characteriatic ; but
whero there is bo much water, there must
be some oasis. The great river, and tho
gruat lake, reported, may not bo etpial to
the report ; but whore there is so much
snow, there must bo streams ; and where
there is no outlet, there must be lakes to
hold the accumulated waters, or sands to
•wallow them up. In this eastern part of
the Dusin, containing Sevier, Utah, and the
Great Salt lakes, and the rivers and creeks
falling into them, we know there is good
■oil and good grass, adapted to civilized
settlements. In the western part, on Sal-
mon Trout river, and some other streams,
the same remark may be made.

The contents of this Great Basin are yet
to be examined. That it is peopled, we
know ; but miserably and sparsely. From
ull that I heard and saw, I should say that
humanity here appeared in its lowest form,
and in its most elementary state. Dis-
persed in single families; without fire-arms ;
eating seeds and insects; digging roots,
(and hence their name,)— such is the con-
dition of the greater part. Others are a
(tngree higher, and live in communities

upon aomn l4kn or rivAf that aiipplUa Hah,
mid from Mliich llicy rcpuUc llin mianrabla
l^'UK'' ■ 1^"' i^abbit la tho lar|{i)at animal
known HI lliia doaorl ; ita flt'ith Alforda a
little mr.-tt; and ihuir hag-likii rovnring la
made of ita nkina. Tho wild aago ia thair
only woiwl, and hrro it la of oxtraordi-
nary aixo -iionii'tiini'a u foot in dintiiotar,
and atx or i'it(lit loot hi)(h. It aorvra fur
fuel, for building tnatnrial, for ahflllnr to thn
rabliita, and for nuiiio aort of covoriiiii for
thn ftii't and Inga in cohl wnatluir. Siirh
urn tho acooiiiita of tlir iiihabitanta and pro-
duciiona of tho (treat llaMn ; and wliioh,
though iiiipci'fo't, muat have miiiio founda-
tion, and oxritc our deairo tu knu<v tlia
whole.

Tho wholo idnaofauch a duanrt, and such
a poopio, in a novelty in our country, and
excitca Aaiatic, not American idcaa. Iiitn
rior baaina, with their own ayatcma of lukut
and rivera, and oHen sterile, are comrnuii
enough in .\aia ; pooplu atill in tho ninnien-
tary atato of families, living in deaerta, willi
no other occupation than the mere animal
anarch for food, may atill ho seen in that
ancient quarter of tho gUho ; but in Ameri-
ca such tliinga arc now and atrungc, un-
known and unaiiapcrtod, nnil discredited
when related. Hut I flatter myself that
what is diacovorod, though not enough to
aatiafy curiosity, is sufficiont to excite it, and
that subsequent explorations will complet«
what has been commenced.

This account of the Great Basin, it will
be remembered, belongs to tho Alta Cali-
fornia, and ha.s no application to Oregon,
whose capabilities may justify a separate
remark. Ueferring to my journal for par-
ticular descriptions, and tor sectional boun-
daries between good and bad districts, I can
oaly say, in general and comparative tornia,
that, in that oranch of agriculture which im-
plies the cultivation of grains and ataplo
crops, it would be inferior to tho Atlantio
States, though many parts are auporior for
wheat ; while in tho rearing of flocks and
herds it would claim a high place. Its
grazing capabilities are great ; and even in
the indigenous grass now there, an element
of individual and n; tional wealth may be
found. In fact, tho valuable grasses begin
within one hundred and fiftv miles of the
Missouri frontier, and extend to the Pacific
ocean. East of the Rocky mountains, it is
the short curly grass, on which the bufTalo
delight to feed, (whence its name of buffalo,)
and which is still good when dry and appa-
rently dead. West of those mountains it is
a larger growth, in clusters, avid hence called
bunch grass, and which has a second or fall
growth. Plains and mountains both exhibit
them ; and I have seen good pasturage at an
elevation of ten thousand feet. In this

IIM4.)

CAPT. FIIKMONTM NARUATIVK.

173

(■|MMil;ini*iiMM prixlui*! lli« IrtiiliiiK or trKvclliii);
ourit«aitK cm llii<l aultniRti'iicff I'or thnir uiii-
inaU , uihl III iiiiliiiiry o|ii*ruiiiMi« any iiiiiii-
bcr ol'citvitlry iiiiiv lin imtvuil, uikI uny iiiiiii-
b«r iifi'iUtlit limy no drivnii ; iiiul llnm inni
au<l lioMi'M lin Niip|iiirti<il nil loh|{ <>X|irilit|iinii,
ami t'vin in wintn', in tlio Mhcllvrnil aitiia-
tiiinn.

< oinninri-iitlly, tlio vuliiti of ttio Ori<|{on
country iniint lit* ffri'ut, wuiilitui an it i* hy
llm iiiirlli I'lirido nonui — I'rontlng Ahiii —
(iroildi'intr iiiitny nt' ilui vlniu'iila ot' ciiin-
inurcii — niiltl itiul hcitllliy in ilN cliiiiuli* —
iukI IxTiiiitiiitt, iia it iiutiiritlly will, it llio-
ruiii^hl'irn I'ur llio Kant India iind Chiriii
lrii<lu.

'riiiiiinir mir Curcn nncn innrp pnniwnrd,
on till' niiuiiint; iif iliu '.i7tli wi; left iIid I'tuh
1 iki', iuiil rontitiiiuil lor two dayn to iiMrond
Uie S|iani(tli Cork, uliicli \h dixpurHud in nil-
ineiiiiiH liritnuhnH aiiion|{ very ruKK^-^' iiioiin-
luin'<, u liicli uH'okI I'tuv paitHCN, miil render ii
t'iiiiiiliar iieiniitiiit:knc<! witli llieiii lUMreititury
to i|i«' triivellor. 'I'iic Btri'iiiu can Hcurcily
lit) Hiihl to liavo u viill»y, the iiiounlaiiiH riniiiK
ul'teii iilirii|itly tVoin tlio watpr'it vdgo ; but a
({ooii trail I'iieilitiited our travelling, and tlieru
were tVei(ueiit iHittoina, covered with cxecl-
lent (ri:tt*8. Thu HtroaiiiH are prettily and
vaiioiiAly wooded ; and cverywliorc the
muuntain uhows ({ruBs and timber.

At our encampment un the evening of the
28th, near the head of one of the branches
we had ascended, strata of bituminouH liine-
stono were displayed in an escarpment on the
river blutrs, in which were ctmtainod a vari-
ety of fossil shelis of new species.

It will be remembered, that in crossing
this ridge about 120 miles to the northward
*n AuuuHt last, strata of fossilifurous rock
were discovered, which have been referred
to the oolitic period ; it is probable that
these rocks also belong to the same forma-
tion.

A few miles from this encampment wo
reached the bed of the stream ; and cross-
ing, by an open and easy pass, the dividing
ridge 'which separates the waters of the
Great Basin from those of the Colorado,
we reached the head branches of one of its
larger tributaries, which, from the decided
color of its waters, has received the name
of White river. The snows of the moun-
tains were now beginning to melt, and all
the little rivulets were running by in rivers,
and rapidly becoming difhcult to ford. Con-
tinuing a tew miles up a branch ''f White
river, we crossed a dividing ridge between
its waters and those of the Uintah. The
approach to the pass, which is the best
known to Mr. Walker, was somewhat diffi-
cult for packs, and impracticable for wag-
owi — all the streams bemg shut in by nar-

row ravinen, and the narrow trail ali.ii^ ilm
■tt<iiiiiaii|{i> oldnly
oni* uiiiiintl lit a tiiiiii. From (lie iniinniil wn
hud a lhii> view of llin mmuy Id ;ir Itivnr
rniiKe ; uml there were ntiil ii'iniiimi^ lieiU
of itnow nil the eojil Midi'N of tlm liilU near
tho pa«« W'v deneeiideil liy ii niirrow ra-
vine, III uIiiitIi was rapully uiiilii'ied a little
branch ol the IMiilah, and hailed to nonn
about 1,A00 feet below the pax«, ;it an ele-
vation, by tho boiling point, of n,!l()0 feet
above the nea.

The next day we deNPeinled iiiittipf tbo
river, anil ultoiit imoii reaclieil u pniiit where
tliiee fork:« eoine lot(etlier. Konling one of
theH« Willi Hiiine ililllciilly, we eoiitiMiinl up
the middle lnuneh, whirli, fintii tiie enlor of
ill* watem, is iiamed the Kd! river. Tin* few
pimxex, and extremely iu(,'),'ril iiatiiri' of the
••oiintry, yive to it threat htrrii;<lii, and heeiirc
the IJtaliH from the intniMiui of their eno-
mien. ('rotiHing in tlm urirriiocui n soiiifl'
what broken hi;;lilinii, c-ii\i>rri| in iilaccs
with fine graHMes, and willi ii'dar on the hill
miles, wc eniMiniied at evcniM;,' on aiiollior
Iriluitarv to the I'^i/i/r//;, eiillnl llie Ihu/ii.vn
fork. riie water waH very elear, tin) stream
not being yet Hwnlleii by this im liiin/ snows ,
and wu forded it without any tlilllriilly. It
ii« a considerable branch, lii.iii)r Hjircid out
by iHlaiiilN, tho largest arm tiling iitinul a
hundred feet wide ; and the niitiiu it bears
is probably that of some old Krencii trap-
per.

TH'i next day wo continued down tlm
river, which wo were twice obliged tocrosM ;
and, thu water having risen diiniig the iiigbl,
it was aluiost everywhere too deep to be
forded. After travelling about sixteen
miles, we encamped again on the left bank.

I obtained here an occullation of ■* .SVor-
pii at the ilark limb of the moon, which
gives fur the longitude of the place 112'^
18' 30", and the latitude 40^ 18' 53 ".

June 1. — We left to-day the Duchesne
fork, and, after traversing a broken country
for about sixteen miles, arrived at noon at
another considerable branch, a river of great
velocity, to which tho Iramicrs have im-
properly given the name of Lake fork. The
name applied to it by thu Indians signifies
great swiftness, and is the same which they
use to express the speed of a racehorse.
It is spread out in various channels over
several hundred yards, and is everywhere
too deep and swift to be forded. At this
season of the year, there is an uninterrupted
noise from the large rocks which are rolled
along the bed. Allor infinite difficulty, and
the delay of a day, we succeeded in getting
the stream bridged, and got over with the
loss of one of our animals. Continuing our
route across a broken country, of which the
higher parts were rocky and timbered with

174

CAl r. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1844.

eodar, and the lower parts covered with

Siod grass, wo reached, on iho afternoon of
e 3d, the Uintah fort, a trading post hc-
longinir to Mr. A. Roubidcau, on the jirinci-
pal fork of the Uintah river. We found tlie
stream nc'ly as rapid and difTicult us the
Lake fork, divided into several channels,
which were too broad to be bridged. Willi
the aid of gnides from the fort, wo succeed-
ed, with very great difticully, in fording it ;
and encamped near the fon, which is situ-
ated a short distance above the Junction of
two branches which make the river.

By an immersion of the 1st sutcllrtc,
(agreeing well with the result of the occul-
tation observed at the Duchesne fork,) the
longitude of iho post is 109° 56' 42", the
latitude 40° 87' 45".

It has a motley garrison of Canadian and
Spanish engages and hunters, with the r.sual
number of Indian women. We obtained a
small supply of sugar and coffee, w'tti some
dried meat and a cow, which -..as a very
accepiable change from liie pinoli on which
we had subsisted for some weeks past. I
strengthened my party at this place by the
addition of Auguste Archambeau, an ex-
cellent voyageur and hunter, belonging to
ihe class of Carson and Godey.

On the morning of the 5th we left the
foit* and the Uintah river, and continued
our road over a broken country, which af-
forded, however, a rich addition to our bo-
tanical collection ; and, after a march of
25 miles, were again checked by another
stream, called Ashley's fork, where we
were detained until noon of the next day.

An immersion of the 2d satellite gave for
this place a longitude of 109° 27' 07", the
latitude by observation being 40° 28' 07".

In tha afternoon of the next day we suc-
ceeded in finding a ford ; and, after travel-
ling fifteen miles, encamped high up on the
mountain side, where we found excellent
and abundant grass, which we had not hith-
erto seen. A new species of elymus, which
had a purgative and weakening eifect upon
the animals, had occurred abundantly since
leaving the fort. From this point, by ob-
servation 7,300 feet above the sea, we had
a view of the Colorado below, shut up
amongst rugged mountains, and which is
the recipient of all the streams we had been
crossing since we passed the rim of the
Great Basin at ine head of the Spanish
fork.

On the 7th we had a pleasant but long

• This fort was attacked and taken by a
band of the Utah Indians oinco we pu^ed it ;
and the men of the garrison killed, the women
carried off. Mr. Roubideau, a trader of .St.
Louis, was absent, and bo escaped the fate of
th« rest

day's journey, through beautiful little val-
leys and a high mountain country, arrivinfl
about evening at the verge of a steep and
rocky ravine, by which we descended to
" Brown's holc.''^ This is a place well
known to trappers in the country, where iho
canons through which the Coloru'lo runs ex-
pand into a narrow hut pretty v.illey, about
sixteen miles in length. 'I'ho river was
several hundred yards in breadth, swollen
to the lop of its hanks, near to wliieli it was
in many places fift en lo twenty feet deep.
Wo rejKiircd a skin l)oat which had been
purchased at the fort, and, after a delay of a
day, reached the opposite banks with much
less delay than had been encountered on the
Uintah waters. Accoriing to iiifurnr.ilion,
the lower end of the valley is the most
eastern part of the Colorado ; and the lati-
tude of our encampment, which was oppo-
site to the remains of an old fort on the left
bank of the river, was 40<^ 46' 27", and, by
observation, the cK .'ation above the sea
5,150 feet. The bfvring to the entrance
of the canon '>el' vv was south 20^ east.
Here the river venters between lofty preci-
pices of red rock, and the country below is
said to assume a very rugged character ;
the river .md its afiluents passing through
canons which forbid all access to the water.
This si altered little valley was formerly a
favorite wintering ground for the trappers,
as it i.tforded them suflUcient pasturage for
the:; animals, and the surrounding mcun-
tains are well stocked with game.

We surprised a floek of mountain sheep aa
v/e descended to the river, and our hunters
killed several. The bottoms of a small
stream called the Vermilion creel:, v.hich
enters the left bank of the river a short dis-
tance below our encampment, were :;overed
abundantly with F. vcrmicularis, ai d otiier
chenopodiaceous shrubs. From the lower
end of Biown's hole we issued by a remark-
ably dry canon, fifty or sixty yards wide,
and rising, as we advanced, to the height
of six or eight hundred feet. suing from
this, and crossing a small green valley, we
entered another rent of the same nature,
still narrower than the other, the rocis on
either side rising in nearly vertical pre npi-
ces perhaps 1,500 feet in height, 'ihesa
places are mentioned, to give some idea of
the country lower down on the Colorado
to which the trappers usually apply tho
name of a canon country. The canon
opened upon a pond of water, where w»
halted to noon. Several flocks of mountain
sheep were here among the rocks, which
rung with volleys of small arms. In the
afternoon we entc-ed upon an ugly, barren,
and broken country, corresponding well with
that we had traversed a few degrees north,
on the same side of the Colorado. The

1844.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

175

Vermilion creok afforded u.s brackish water
nnd itidifffrent \xi"iH>i for tlie iiiglit.

A few scattered cedar trees were the
only iiiii>roveinciit of the country on the fol-
lowing day ; and at a little spring of had
water, where we halted to noon, we had not
even the shelter of these from the hot rays
of the sun. At night we encamped in a fine
p~ove (if cotlon-wood trees, on the banks of
ihe Elk Head river, the principal fork of
the Yampuh river, commonly called by the
trappers the Bear river. We made liere a
very strong coral and fort, and formed the
camp into vigilant guards. The country we
were now entering is constantly infested by
war parties of the Sioux and other Indians,
and la considered among the most dangeroi
war grounds in the Rocky mountains ; par
ties of whites having been repeatedly de-
feated on this river.

On the 11th we continued up the river,
which i.s a coiisiderable stream, fifty to a
hundred yards in width, handsomely and
continuously wooded with groves of the
narrow-leaved cotton-wood, (populus an-
gustifulia ;) with these were thickets of
willow and grain du bauf. The character-
istic plant along the river is F. vermiciila-
ris, which generally covers the bottoms ;
mingled with this, are saline shrubs and ar
temisia. The new variety of grass which
we had seen on leaving the Uintah fort had
now disappeared. The country on either
side was sandy and poor, scantilv wooded
with cedars, but the river bottoiuvs afford-
ed good pasture. Three antelofies were
killed in the afternoon, and we encamped a
little below a branch of the river called St.
Vrain's fork. A few miles above was the
'ort at which Frapp's party had b^-^n de-
feated two years since ; and we pass^^ii dur-
ing the day a place where Tarso^ ha<? been
fired opon so close that oxif of the men had
fiv<3 b»<)' .-ts through his body. Leaving
th.8 iivrr the next morning, we took our
way across thii hills, wh«re every hollow
had a spriDg of running water, with good
grass.

Yesterday and to-day we have had before
our eyes the high moufitains which divide
the Pacific fr<'j>m the Mississippi waters ;
and enteririj? here among the lower spurs,
or foot hills of »he range, the face of the
country began to improve with a magical
rapidity. Not only the river bottoms, but
the hills, were covered with grass ; and
among the usual varied flora of the moun-
tain region, these were occasionnlly blue
with the showy bloom of a lupinus. In the
t.'onrse of the morning we had the first glad
view of buffalo, and welcomed the appear-
ance of two old bulls with as much joy as if
they had been messengers from home ; and
when we descended to noon on St. Vrain's

fork, an affluent of Green river, the hunter.^
brought in mountain sheep and the meat of
two fat bulls. Fresh entrails in the river
showed us that there were Indians above ;
and, at evening, judging it unsafe to encamp
in the bottoms, which were wooded only with
willow thickets, we ascended to the spurs
above, and forted strongly in a small aspen
grove, near to which was a spring of cold
water. The hunters killed two fine cows
near the camp. A band of elk broke out of
a neighboring grove ; antelopes were run-
ning over the hills ; and on the opposite
river plains, herds of buffalo were raising
clouds of dust. The country here appeared
more variously stocked with game than any
part of the Rocky moun*c.ins we had visit-
ed ; and its abundance is owing to the ex-
cellent jiasturage, and its dangerous char-
acter as a war ground.

June 13. — There was snow here near
our mountain camp, and the morning was
beautiful and cool. Leaving St. VraiH's
fork, we took our way directly towards the
summit of the dividing ridge. The bot-
toms of the streams and level places were
wooded with aspens ; and as we neared the
summit, we entered again the piny region.
We had a delightful morning's ride, the
ground affording us an excellent bridle path,
and reached the .summit towards midday, ni
an elevation of 8,000 feet. With joy and
exultation we saw ourselves once more on
the top o-f the Rocky mountains, and beheld
a little stream tak>«g its course towards the
rising sun. It was an affluent of the Platte,
called Pullam\s fork, and we di .cended t<i
noon upon it. It is a pretty stream, twenty
yards broad, and bears the name of a trap-
per wlio, some years since, was killed here
by the Gros Ventre Indians.

Issuing from ihe pines in the afternoon,
we saw spread owt before us the valley of
the Platte, with tli<» pass of the Medicine
Butte beyond, and i^ome of the Sweet W^ater
mountains ; but a smoky haziness in the air
entirely obscured thf Wind River chain.

We were now about two degrees south of
the South Pass, and our course home would
have been eastwardly ; but that would have
taken us over ground already examinfed,
and therefore without the interest which
would excite curiosity. Southwardly there
were objects worthy to be explored, to wit ;
the approximation of the head waters of
three different rivers — the Platte, the Ar-
kansas, and the Grand River fork of the Rio
Colorado of the gulf of California ; the Pass-
es at the heads of these rivers ; and the
three remarkable mountain coves, called
Parks, in which they took their rise. Ona
of these Parks was, of course, on the west-
ern side of the dividing ridge ; and a visit
to it would require us once more to cross

179

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1844.

the summit of tho Rocky mountains to the
west, and then to recross to the east ;
making, in all, with the transit wo had just
accomplished, three crossings of that moun-
tain in this section of its course. But, no
matter. The coves, the heads of the rivers,
the approximation of their waters, the prac-
ticability of the mountain passes, and the
locality of the thrke Parks, were all ob-
jects of interest, and, although well known
to hunters and trappers, were unknown to
science and to history. We therefore
changed our course, and turned up the val-
ley of the Platte instead of going down it.

We crossed several small aiFlluents, and
again made a fortified camp in a grove.
The country had now become very bpauti-
ful — rich in water, grass, and game ; and to
these were added the charm of scenery and
pleasant weather.

June 14. — Our route this" morning lay
along the foot of the mountain, over the
long low spurs which sloped gradually down
to the river, forming the broad valley of the
Platte. The country is beautifully watered.
In almost every hollow ran a clear, cool
mountain stream ; and in the course of the
morning we crossed seventeen, several of
them being large creeks, forty to fifty feet
wide, with a swift current, and tolerably
deep. These were variously woodc d with
groves of aspen and cotton-wood, witli wil-
low, cherry, and other shrubby trees. Buf-
falo, antelope, and elk, were frequent dur-
ing the day ; and, in their abundance, the
latter sometimes reminded us slightly of
the Sacramento valley.

We halted at noon on Potter's fork — a
clear and swift stveam, forty yards wide,
and in many places deep enough to swim
our animals ; and in the evening encamped
on a pretty stream, where there were sever-
al beaver dams, and many trees recently cut
down by the beaver. We gave to this the
name of Beaver Dam creek, as now they
are becoming sufficiently rare to distinguish
by their name the streams on which they
are found. In this mountain they occurred
more abundantly than elsewhere in all our
journey, in which their vestiges had been
scarcely seen.

The next day we continued our journey
up the valley, the country presenting much
the same appearance, except that the grass
was more scanty on the ridges, over which
was spread a scrubby growth of sage ; but
still the bottoms of the creeks were broad,
and afforded good pasture grounds. We
had an animated chase after a grizzly bear
this morning, which we tried to lasso. Fu-
entes threw the lasso upon his neck, but it
slipped off, and he escaped into the dense
thickets of the creek, into which we did not
like to venture. Our course in the after-

noon brought us to the main Platte river,
here a handsome stream, with a uniform
breadth of seventy yards, except where
widened by frequent islands. It was appa-
rently deep, with a moderate current, anj
wooded with groves of largo willow.

Tho valley narrowed as we ascended, and
presently degenerated into a gorge, through
which the river passed as through a gate.
We entered it, and found ourselves in tiie
New Park — a beautiful circular valley of
thirty miles diameter, .valled in all round
with snowy mountains, rich with water and
with grass, fringed with pine on the moun-
tain sides below the snow line, and a para-
dise to all grazing animals. The Indian
name for it signifies " cow lodge," of which
our own may be considered a translation •
the enclosure, the grass, the water, and thd
herds of buffalo roaming over it, naturally
presenting the idea of a park. We halted
for the night just within the gate, and ex-
pected, as usual, to see herds of buffalo ,
but an Arapahoe village had been before
us, and not one was to be seen. Latitude
of the encampment 40^ 52' 44". Elevation
by the boiling point 7,720 feet.

It is from this elevated cove, and from the
gorges of the surrounding mountains, and
some lakes within their bosoms, that the
Great Platte river collects its first waters,
and assumes its first form ; and certainly no
river could ask a more beautiful origin.

June 16. — In the morning we pursued
our way through the Park, following a
principal branch of the Platte, and crossing,
among many smaller ones, a bold stream,
scarcely fordable, called Lodge Pole fork,
and which issues from a lake in the moun-
tains on the right, ten miles long, in tho
evening we encamped on a small stream,
near the upper end of the Park. Latitude
of the camp 40° 33' 22".

June 17. — We continued our way among
the waters of the Park, over the foot hilh
of the bordering mountains, where we
found good pasturage, and surprised and
killed some buffalo. We fell into a broad
and excellent trail, made by buffalo, where
a wagon would pass with ease ; and, in the
course of the morning, we crossed the
summit of the Rocky mountains, through a
pass which was one of the most beautiful
we had ever seen. The trail led aiueng
the aspens, through open grounds, richly
covered with grass, and carried us over an
elevation of about 9,000 feet above the level
of the sea.

The country appeared to great advantage
in the delightful summer weather of the
mountains, which we still continued to en-
joy. Descending from the pass, we found
ourselves again on the western waters : and
hailed to noon on the edge of anothei

1844.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

177

mountain valley, called the Old Park, in
which is formed Grand river, one of the
principal branches of the Coloriido of Cali-
fornia. We were now moving with some
caution, as, from the trail, we found the
Arapahoe village had also passed this way.
As we were coming out of their enemy's
country, and this was a war ground, we
were desirous to avoid them. After a long
afternoon's march, we halted at night on a
small creek, tributary to a main fork of
Grand river, which ran through this portion
of the valley. The appearance of the
country in the Old Park is interesting,
though of a different character from the
New ; instead of being a comparative plain,
it is more or less broken into iiills, and sur-
rounded by the high mountains, timbered
on the lower parts with quaking asp and
pines.

June 18. — Our scouts, who were as usual
ahead, made from a butte this morning the
signal of Indians, and we rode up in time to
meet a party of about 30 Arapahoes. They
were men and women going into the hills —
the men for game, the women for roots —
and informed us that the village was ea-
camped a few miles above, on the main
fork of Grand river, which passes through
tlie midst of the valley. I made them the
usual presents ; but they appeared disposed
to be unfriendly, and galloped back at speed
to the village. Knowing that we had
trouble to expect, I descended immediately
into the bottoms of Grand river, which
were overflowed in places, the river being
up, and made the best encampment the
ground afforded. We had no time to build
a fort, but found an open place among the
willows, which was defended by the river
on one side and the overflowed bottoms on
the other. We had scarcely made our few
preparations, when about 200 of them ap-
peared on the verge of the bottom, mount-
ed, painted, and armed for war. We
planted the American flag between us ; and a
short parley ended in a truce, with some-
thing more than the usual amount of pres-
ents. About 20 Sioux were with them —
one of them an old chief, who had always
been friendly to the whites. He informed
me that, before coming down, a council
had been held at the village, in which the
greater part had declared for attacking
us — we had come from their enemies, to
whom we had doubtless been carrying as-
sistance in arms and anununition ; but his
own party, with some few of the Arapahoes
who had seen us the previous year in the
plains, opposed it. It will be remembered
that it is customary for this people to at-
tack the trading parties which they meet
in this region, considering all whom they
meet on the western side of the mountains
12

to bo their enemies. They deceived me
into the belief that I should find a ford at
their village, and I could not avoid ac-
companying them ; but put several sloughs
between us and their village, and forted
strongly on the banks of the river, which
was everywhere rapid and deep, and over
a hundred yards in breadth. The camp
was generally crowded with Indians; and
though the baggage was carefully watchsd
and covered, a number of things were
stolen.

The next morning we descended the
river for about eight mdes, and halted a
short distance above a canon, through which
Grand river issues from the Park. Here
it was smooth and deep, 150 yards in
breadth, and its elevation at this point
6,700 feet. A frame for the boat tisjing
very soon mad«, our baggage was ferried
across ; the horses, in the mean tune, swim-
ming over. A southern fork of Grand
river here makes its junction, nearly op-
posite to the branch by which we had en-
tered the valley, and up this we cop.';inued
for about eight miles in the afternoon, and
encamped in a bottom on the left bank,
which afforded good grass. At our en-
campment it was 70 to 90 yards in breadth,
sometimes widened by islands, and separa-
ted into several channels, with a very swift
current and bed of rolled rocks.

On the 20th we travelled up the left bank,
with the prospect of a bad road, the trail
here taking the opposite side ; but the
stream was up, and nowhere fordable. A
piny ridge of mountains, with bare rocky
peaks, was on our right all the day, and a
snowy mountain appeared ahead. We
crossed many foaming torrents with rocky
beds, rushing down to the river ; and in the
evening made a strong fort in an aspen
grove. The valley had already become
very narrow, shut up more closely in
densely timbered mountains, the pines
sweeping down the verge of the bottoms.
The coq de prairie {tetrao europhasianus)
was occasionally seen among the sage.

We saw to-day the returning trail of an
Arapahoe party which had been sent from
the village to look for Utahs in the B,ayou
Salade, (South Park ;) and it being probable
that they would visit our camp with the
desire to return on horseback, we were
more than usually on the alert.

Here the river diminished to 35 yards,
and, notwithstanding the number of affluents
we had crossed, was still a large stream,
dashing swiftly by, with a great continuous
fall, and not yet fordable. We had a de-
lightful ride along a good trail among the
fragrant pines ; and the appearance of buf-
falo in great numbers indicated that there
were Indians in the Bayou Salade, (South

178

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVP].

[1844.

Park,) by whom they were driven out. We
halted to noon under the ahado of the, pines,
anJ the weather was most delightful. The
country was literally alive with buffalo ;
and the continued echo of the hunter's
rifles on the other side of the river for a
moment made mo uneasy, thinking pcrha;)s
they were engaged with Indians ; but in a
short time tliey came into camp with the
meat of seven fat cows.

During the earlier part of the day's ride,
the river had been merely a narrow ravine
l)ct\veen high piny mountains, backed on
both aides, but particularly on the west, by
a lino of snowy ridges ; but, after several
hours' ride, the stream opened out into a
valley with pleasant bottoms. In the after-
noon the river forked into three apparently
equal streams; broad buffalo trails leading
up the left hand, and the middle branch, in-
dicating good passes over the mountains ;
but up the right-hand branch, (which, in
the object of descending from the mountain
by the main head of the Arkansas, I was
most desirous to follow,) there was no sign
of a buffalo trace. Apprehending from this
reason, and the character of the mountains,
which are known to be extremely rugged,
that the right-hand branch led to no pass, I
proceeded up the middle branch, which
formed a flat valley bottom between timber-
ed ridges on the left and snowy mountains
on the right, terminating in large buttcs of
naked rock. The trail was good, and the
country interesting ; and at niglitfall we
encamped in an open place among the pines,
where we built a strong fort. The moun-
tains exhibit their usual varied growth of
flowers, and at this place I noticed, among
others, thermopsis montana, whose bright
yellow color makes it a showy plant. This
has been a characteristic in many parts of
the country since reaching the Uintah
waters. With fields of iris were aquilegia
carulea, violets, esparcette, and straw-
berries.

At dark, we perceived a fire in the edge
of the pines, on the opposite side of the val-
ley. We had evidently not been discovered,
and, at the report of a gun, and the blaze of
fresh fuel which was heaped on our fires,
those of the strangers were instantly ex-
tinguished. In the morning, they were
found to be a party of six trappers, who had
ventured out among the mountains after
beaver. They informed us that two of the
number with which they had started had
been already killed by the Indians — one of
them but a few days since — by the Arapa-
hoes we had lately seen, who had found
him alone at a camp on this river, and car-
ried off his traps and animals. As they
were desirous to join us, the hunters return-
ed with them to their encampment, and we

continued up the valley, in which the stream
rapidly diminished, breaking into snnil trib-
utaries — every hollow affording water. At
our noon halt, the hunters joined us with
the trappers. While preparing to start
from their croampment, they found them-
selves suddenly burrounded by a parly of
Arapahoes, who informed them tliiit their
scouls had discovered a largo Utah village
in the Bayou Salade, (South Park,) and
that a large war party, consisting of almost
every man in the village, except those who
were too old to go to war, were going over
to attack them. The main body had as-
cended the loft fork of the river, which af-
forded a better pass than the branch we were
on ; and this party had followed 'i"r trail, in
order that we might add our ftrtv lo theirs.
Carson informed them that we were too far
ahead to turn back, but would join them in
the bayou ; and the Indians went off appa-
rently satisfied. By the temperature of
boiling water, our elevation here was 10,430
feet ; and still the pine forest continued,
and grass was good.

In the afternoon, we continued our road —
occasionally through open pines, with a very
gradual ascent. We surprised a herd of
buffalo, enjoying the shade at a small lake
among the pines ; and they made the dry
branches crack, as they broke through the
woods. In a ride of about three-cpiarters of
an hour, and having ascended perhaps 800
feet, we reached the summit of the divid-
ing TLiDCn, which would thus have an esti-
mated height of 11,300 feet. Plere the
river spreads itself into small branches and
springs, heading nearly in the summit of the
ridge, which is very narrow. Immediately
below us was a green valley, through which
ran a stream ; and a short distance opposite
rose snowy mountains, whose summits were
formed into peaks of nalred rock. We
soon afterwards satisfied ourselves that im-
mcdialely beyond these mountains was the
main branch of the Arkansas river — most
probably heading directly with the little
stream below us, which gathered its waters
in the snowy mountains near by. Descrip-
tions of the rugged character of the moun-
tains around the head of the Arkansas,
which their appearance amply justified, de-
terred me from making any attempt to reach
it, which would have involved a greater
length of time than now remained at my dis-
posal.

In about a quarter of an hour, we de-
scended from the summit of the Pass into
the creek below, our road having beon very
much controlled and interrupted by the pines
and springs on the mountain siilu. Turn-
ing up the stream, we encamped on a bot-
tom of good grass near its head, which
gathers its waters in the dividing crest of the

1844.]

CAPr. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

179

Rooky mouiitaina, and, according to tlio l)c.st
informalion wc could obtain, separated only
by the rocky wall of the ridge from the head
of the main Arkansas river. By tiie obser-
vations of the evening, tiie latitude of our
encampment was 39'^ 20' 24", and south of
which, therefore, is the head of the Arkan-
sas river, The stream on which wo had
ericamped is the head of eitiicrthc Fontaiiif-
qui-f)(inif, a branch of the Arkansas, or the
remotest head of the soiitli fork of the
Platte ; as whicii, you will find it laid down
on the map. But descending it only through
a portion of its course, we have not been
able to settle this point satisfactorily.

In the evening, a band of bufl'alo furnished
a little excitement, by ciiarging through the
oamp.

On the following day, we descended the
stream by an excellent buffalo trail, along
the open grassy bottom of the river. On
our right, the bayou was bordered by a
mountainous range, crested w'th rocky and
naked peaks ; and below, it had a beautiful
park-like character of pretty level prairies,
interspersed among low spurs, wooded
openly with pine and quaking asp, contrast-
ing well with the denser pines which swept
around on the mountain sides. Descending
always the valley of the stream, towards
noon wo descried a mounted party descend-
ing the point of a spur, and. judging them to
bo Arapaboes — who, defeated or victorious,
were equally dangerous to us, and with
whom a fight would be inevitable — we hur-
ried to po.st ourselves as strongly as possible
on some willow islands in the river. We
had scarcely halted when they arrived,
proving to be a party of Utah women, who
told us that on the other side of the ridge
their village was fighting with the Arapa-
hoes. As soon as they had given us this in-
formation, they filled the air with cries and
lamentations, which made us understand
that some of their chiefs had been killed.

Extending along the river, directly ahead
.>f us, was a low piny ridge, leaving be-
"ween it and the stream a small open bottom,
on which the Utahs had very injudiciously
placed their village, which, according to the
women, numbered about 300 warriors. Ad-
vancing in the cover of the pines, the Ara-
pahoes, about daylight, charged into the vil-
lage, driving ofT a great number of their
horses, and killing four men ; among them,
the principal chief of the vilhiiio. They
drove the horses perhaps a mile ')oyond the
village, to the end of a hollow, whore they
had previously forted at the edge of the
pines. Here the Utahs hnd instantly at-
tacked them in turn, and, acourding to the
report of the women, were getting rather
the best of the day. The women pressed
us eagerly to join with their people, and

would immediately have provided us with
the best horses at the village ; but it was
not for us to interfere in such a fontlict.
Neither party were our frienil«, o • under our
prolectiiui ; and each was ready to piry up-
on us that couid. Hut wc (;ouIil not help
feeling an unusual excitement at being with-
in a few hundred yards of a fight, in whifh
500 leen were closely engaged, and hearing
the sharp cracks of their rifles. We were
in a bad position, and subject to he attacked
in it. Either party which we might inert,
victorious or defeated, was certain to fall
upon us ; and, gearing up immediately, we
kept clo.so along the pines of the ridge, hav-
ing it between us and the village, and kciep-
ing the scouts on the summit, to give us
notice of the approach of Indians. As we
passed by the village, whicli was immedi-
ately below us, horsemen were galloping to
and fro, and groups of people were gathered
around those who were wounded and dead,
and who were being brought in from the
field. We continued to press on, and, cross-
ing another fork, which came in from the
right, after having made fifteen miles from
the village, fortified ourselves strongly in
the pines, a short distance from the river.

During the afternoon. Pike's Peak had
been plainly in view before us, and, from
our encampment, bore N. 87^ E. by com-
pass. This was a familiar object, and it
had for us the face of an old friend. At its
foot were the -springs, where we had spent
a pleasant day in coining out. Near it were
the habitations of civilized men ; and it
overlooked the broad smooth plains, which
promised us an easy journey to our home.

The next day we left the river, which
continued its course towards Pike's Peak ;
and taking a southeasterly direction, in
about ten miles we crossed a gentle ridge,
and, issuing from the South Park, found
ourselves involved among the broken spurs
of the mountains whi'^h border the great
prairie plains. Although broken and ex-
tremely rugged, tho country was very inter-
esting, being well watered by numerous af-
fluents to the Arkansas river, and covered
with grass and a variety of trees. The
streams, which, in tKe upper part oi liieir
course, ran through grassy and ojKn' hol-
lows, after a few miles all descended into
deep and impncticablo canons, through
whu'h they found their way to liie Arkan-
sas valley. Htn» the bufTalo trails we had
followed were dispersed among the hi'ilss or
crossed over into the more open valleys of
other Mreams.

During the day our road was fatiguing
and (lifTicult, reminding ua much, by its sti >"p
and rooky character, of our triwelling tho
year btloie among the N> wvl river moun-
tains ; but always at nighl we found soma

180

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[1844.

grassy l)ottnni, which afTorded us a pleasant
camp. In the deep suchision of these lit-
tle streams, we found always an abundant
pasturage, and a wild luxuriance of plants
and trees. Aspens and pines wore the pre-
vailing timber; on the ereeks, oak was fre-
quent ; hut the narrow-leaved cotton-wood,
{pofiuhi.i aii<ru.itifolia,) of unusually large
size, and seven or eight feet in circunifer-
onoe, was the principal tree. With these
were mingled a variety of shrubby trees,
which aided to make the ravines almost im-
pnnetrable.

After several days' laborious travelling,
we succeeded in extricating ourselves from
the mountains, and on the morning of the
28th encamped immediately at their foot,
on a handsome tributary to the Arkansas
river. In the afternoon we descended the
stream, winding our way along the bottoms,
which were densely wooded with oak, and
in the evening encamped near the main
river. Continuing the next day our road
along the Arkansas, and meeting on the
way a war party of Arapahoe Indians, (who
had recently been committing some out-
rages at Bent's fort, killing stock and dri-
ving off horses,) we arrived before sunset at
the Pueblo, near the mouth of the Fontaine-
qui-bouit river, where we had the pleasure
to find a number of our old acquaintances.
The little settlement appeared in a thriving
condition ; and in the interval of our ab-
sence another had been established on the
river, some thirty miles above.

June 30. — Our cavalcade moved rapidly
down the Arkansas, along the broad road
which follows the river, and on the 1st of
July we arrived at Bent's fort, about 70
miles below the mouth of the Fontaine-qui-
bouit. As we emerged into view from the
groves on the river, we were saluted with a
display of the national flag and repeated
discharges from the guns of the fort, where
we were received by Mr. George Bent with
a cordial welcome and a friendly hospitality,
in the enjoyment of which we spent several
very agreeable days. We were now in the
region where our mountaineers were accus-
tomed to live ; and all the dangers and dif-
ficulties of the road being considered past,
four of them, including Carson and Walker,
remained at the fort.

On I In; 5th we resunit^d our journey down
the Ailiiinsas, travelling along a broad wag-
on road, and encanipt;d about twenty miles
below till- fort. On the way we met a vt ry
large vi! age of Sioux and Cheyenne In-
dians, who, with the Arapahoes, were re-
turning from the crossing of the Arkansas,
where they had been to meet the Kioway
and (>amanche Indians. A few days previ-
ous they had massacred a party of fifteen
Dela wares, whom they had discovered in a

fort on the Smoky Hill river, losing in the
affair several of their own i)eo]ilf . They
were desirous that we shouhi btar a pacific
message to the Dolawares on the frontier,
from whom they expected retaliation ; arul
wo passed through them without any diffi-
culty or delay. Dispersed over the plain in
scattered bodies of horsemen, and family
groups of women and children, wilh dog
trains carrying baggage, and long lines o(
pack horses, their appearance was pictu-
resque and imposing.

Agreeably to your instructions, which re-
quired me to complete, as far as practica-
ble, our examinations of the Kansas, I let)
at this encampment the Arkansas river,
taking a northeasterly direction across the
elevated dividing grounds which separate
that river from the waters of the Platte.
On the 7th we crossed a large stream, about
forty yards wide, and one or two feet deep,
flowing with a lively current on a sandy
bed. The discolored and muddy appear-
ance of the water indicated that it proceed-
ed from recent rains ; and we are inclined
to consider this a branch of the Smoky Hill
river, although, possibly, it may be the Paw-
nee ibrk of the Arkansas. Beyond this
.stream we travelled over high and level
prairies, halting at small ponds and holes of
water, and using for our fires the bois de
vache, the country being without timber.
On the evening of the 8th we encamped
in a cotton-wood grove on the banks of a
sandy stream bed, where there was water in
holes sufficient for the camp. Here several
hollows, or dry creeks with sandy beds,
met together, forming the head of a stream
which afterwards proved to be the Smoky
Hill fork of the Kansas river.

The next morning, as we were leaving
our encampment, a number of Arapahoe In-
dians were discovered. They belonged to
a war party which had scattered over the
prairie in returning from an expedition
against the Pawnees.

As we travelled down the valley, water
gathered rapidly in the sandy bed from ma-
ny little tributaries ; and at evening it had
become a handsome stream, fifty to eighty
feel in width, with a lively current in small
channels, the water being principally dis-
persed among quicksands.

Gradually enlarging, in a few days' march
it became a river eighty yards in breadth,
wooded with occasional groves of cotton-
wood. Our road was generally over level
uplands bordering the river, which were
closely ooverud with a sward of buffalo
grass.

On the 10th we entmnd again the buffalo
range, where we had found tht'i*t- animals
so abundant on uur outward Jou-'uey, ani
haln'il for ai day aniong numerous herds, in

1844.]

CAPT. FREMONT'S NAHHATIVK.

ISl

order to make a provision of meat sufficient
to curry uh to the frontier.

A few days afterwards, wo encamped, in
a pleasant oveninpr, on a liigli river jirairie,
the stream liein^ less than a hundred yards
broad. Diirinjr the nij^ht we liad a sncces-
sion of thunder slormw, with heavy ami eon-
Ijnnous rain, and towards ninrninfj the water
suddenly burst over the banks, flooding the
bottoms, and becominfj a large river, five or
six hundred yards in breadth. 'I'he dark-
ness of the njirlit and incessant rain had
concealed from the guard the rise of the
water ; and the river broke into the camp
so suddenly, that the bajLrgngo was instantly
covered, and all our perishable collections
almost entirely ruined, and the hard labor
of many months destroyed in a moment.

On the 17th we discovered a large village
of Indians encamped at the mouth of a
handsomely wooded stream on the right
bank of the river. Readily inferring, from
the nature of the encampment, that they
were Pawnee Indians, and confidently ex-
pecting good treatment from a people who
receive regularly an annuity from the Gov-
ernment, we proceeded directly to the vil-
lage, where we found assembled nearly all
the Pawnee tribe, who were now returning
from the crossing of the Arkansas, where
they had met the Kioway and Camanchc
Indians. We were received by them with
ihe unfriendly rudeness and characteristic
Lusolcnce which they never fail to display
whenever they find an occasion for doing so
with impunity. The little that remained
of our goods was distributed among them,
but proved entirely insufficient to satisfy
their greedy rapacity ; and, after some de-
lay, and considerable difficulty, we succeed-
ea in extricating ourselves from the village,
and encamped on the river about fifteen
miles below.*

The country through which we had been
travelling since leaving the Arkansas river,
for a distance of 260 miles, presented i.> the
eye only a succession of far-stretching green
prairies, covered with the unbrjken verdure
of the buffalo grass, and sparingly wooded
along the streams with straggling trees and
occasional groves of cotton-wood ; but here
the country began perceptibly to change its
character, becoming a more fertile, wooddd,
and beautiful region, covered with a profu-
sion of grasses, and watered wilh innumera-
ble little streams, which were woo»led with
oak, large elms, and the usual varieties of

* In a receut report to the department, from
Major Wharton, who visited the Pawnee vil-
lages with a military force some months after-
wards, it is stated that the Indians had intended
to attack our party during the night we remain-
wl at this encampment, but wrc prevented by
the interposition of the Pawnee Loupe.

timber common to the lower course of the
Kansas river.

.\i; wo advanced, the country steadily
improved, gradually assimilating ilsdf m
appearance to the northwe.'itern part of the
.State of Missouri. The btaulil'nl .swan! of
the buffalo grass, which is reuardiMl as tlio
best and most nutritious found on liie prai-
ries, appeared now oidy in |)atc!ieN, heinj
rejjlaced by a longer and coar.-icr grass,
which covered the face of the country lux-
uriantly. The difference in the clin'raeter
of the grasses became suddenly eviilcnt in
the weakened condition of our animaU,
which began sensibly to fail as smm as w«
quilted tho buffalo grass.

The river preserved a uniform i'rcu(it!i
of eighty or a hundred yards, with hroa^l
bottoms continuously timbered with large
cotton-wood trees, among which were in-
terspersed a few other varieties.

While engaged in crossing oneof liie n i-
merous creeks which freipiently iii;i<'(li(l
and checked our way, sonRlijiics olilijj-in:^
us to ascend them for several miles, one (^f
the people (Alexis Ayot) was shot throuj.Mi
the leg by the accidental discharge of a nlle
— a mortifying and painful inischan(;e, to be
crippled for life by an accident, after having
nearly accomplished in safety a long and
eventful journey, lie was a young man of
remarkably good and cheerful temper, and
had been among the useful and efficient r.icn
of the party.

After having travelled directly along its
banks fur two hundred and ninety miles, we
left the river, where it bore suddenly off ia
a northwesterly direction, towards its junc-
tion with the Republican fork of the Kan-
sas, distant about siyty miles ; and, continu-
ing our easterly course, in about twenty
miles we entered the wagon roar! from .Santa
Ve to Independence, and on the last ilay of
July encamped again at the little town of
Kansas, on the banks of the Missouri river.

During our protracted absence of fourteen
months, in the course of whieli we had ne-
cessarily been exposed to great varictic-i of
weather and of climate, no one case of sick-
ness had ever occurred among us.

Here ended our land journey ; and the
day following our arrival, we fouml ou;-
solves on board a steamlioat rapidly gliding
down the broad Missouri. Our travel worn
animals had not been sold and di.-per.-^ed
over the country to renewed labor, but were
placed at gin)d pasturage on the frontier,
and are now ready to do their part in the
coming expedition.

On the 6th of August we arrived at St.
Louis, where the party was finally disband-
ed ; n great number of the men ha\ing their
homes in tho neighborhood.

AndiiMiB Fueutes also remained here, hav-

188

CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE.

[I8U

ing readily found omployment fur tho win-
ter, and is ono of tho nwn (ingagod tu ao-
company mo tho nronont ycur.

Pablo Ilornandoz romuins in tiie family
of Senator Uonton, where ho ia well taken
care of, and conciliates ^ood will by his do-
cility, intulligonco, und amiability. Gonnral
Almonte, tho Mexican minister at Wash-
ington, to whom ho was of course made
known, kindly offered to tuko charge of
him, and to carry him back to Mexico ; but
the boy preferred to remain where ho was
until no got an education, for which ho
•hows equal ardor and aptitude.

Our Chinook Indian had his wish to B«e

the whites fully gratified. He accompanied
mo to \Vuithin(j:ton, and, after remaining
several months ut tho Ciilumliiu colln({e, was
sent by the Indian department to Phibdel-
phia, whore, among other tliiiigN, he learned
to read and writu well, and spoiik tho Eng-
lish language with some (hiunoy.

He will accompany mo in a few days to
tho frontier of Mn^souri, whenou ho will bu
sent with some one of the eniigrnnt compa-
nies to tho village at tho Dalles of tho (Jo-
lumbia.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
J. C. FREMONT,
Bt. Capl. Topi, i^ng inters.

CAPT. I'WEMONT'S MAUUATIVE.

TABLE OF DISTANCES

ALONa

THE ROAD TRAVELLED DY THE EXPED'.TION IN 1813 AND 1844

OUTWARD JOURNEY.

From Kansas Landing to Fort Vancouver.

Date.

a ^
Si "^

8-!

Localitiea

Dato.

ince travel-
each day.

lance from
sas landing.

LocnlitioM.

<=>!

1»43.

Miles.

Milet.

1843.

Miles.

May 39

July 29

807

831

861

lune 1

Aug. 1

887

100

918

Medicine Bow river

123

944

141

962

North fork.

160

981

174

1,011

182

1,040

187

Junction of Smoky

1,066

Sweet Water

Hill and Repub-

1,089

lican forks.

1,118

188

1,143

212

\ 15

1,152

South pass.

240

1,167

258

'25

1,192

275

1,221

Green river, or Rio

296

Colori^do.

310

1,247

333

1,268

351

1,300

377

1,328

404

1,358

430

26 '

1,384

456

1,421

490

1,433

516

Crossing of the Re-

1,455

pubhcan.

1,463

Beer Spriugs.

540

1,484

567

21 ,

1,505

597

27 1

1,532

618

1,549

644

South fork.

1,568

Idy 1

676

1,594

705

Sept. 1

1,616

733

1,633

751

St. Vrain's fort

1,636

Mouth of Bear river.

755

1,642

781

1,669

801

25 j

1.694

184

CAPT. FKKMONT'S NAUUATIVE.
TABLK OF DISTANCES— Continued.

Data.

LooalitiMk

Dale.

z,-^
l^

LooalitlM.

1843.

MiUi.

Mile:

16-13.

Milei.

MiU».

Seot. 8

1,714

Shore of the Salt

Oct. 9

2.2.M

lukc.

2.2.16

Fort BoM.

1,722

Iiiuiid in the Salt

2,276

lakf.

2,303

1,750

2,323

1.763

2,345

1,790

2,371

1,814

2,384

l\i

1,833

2.105

It)

1,8.VJ

2,425

1,H83

9,446

1,!)U6

Fort Hall.

9.458

8s)

1,»18

9,463

1,928

American fuila on

9,479

Lcwin'm fork.

9,497

1,041

2,515

1,938

2,518

Fort Nez Pero«, al

i>n

1,978

the mouth of Wa*

•JK

2.-)

2,003

UhwalHh riv«fr

•J!»

2,027

2,537

2(i

2or.3

2,556

Oft. 1

2,069

9,577

2!)

2,098

9,603

2,114

Nov. 1

2,626

I'J

2,133

9,645

2,159

9,669

2,181

9,676

Dalles.

2,204

6&7

9,766

Fort Vancouver.

2,230

HOMEWARD JOURNEY.

From the Dalles to the Missouri river.

Date.

stance travel- ;
d each day.

istance from
the Dalies.

Localitica.

Date.

stance travel-
d each day. |

Localitiefl.

1843.

Miles.

1843.

ilfi7e«.

Miles.

Hov. 25

Dec. 4

147

158

177

902

2 J

221

)

935

Dec. 1

105

250

Tlamatb lake.

116

il 12

955

138

1 13

367

CAPT. FIIKMONT'S NAUHATIVE.
TAULK OF DISTANCKS— Continuofl.

rM, ai
)f Wb.

1^^

DaU. !

Locnlitiea.

Data.

liOoalitim.

1843.

M^lf».

Milf.

1644.

MUf».

Milt:

Pec. U

288

F«b. 91

1,006

3U9

1,(109

•MS

Kurnmor lake

1,014

:m 1

1,026

341

1,040

19'

365

*J6

l.O.Vl

310

Lake Abort.

LO.'iS

•

397

1,065

426

Mar. 1

1,071

433

2&3

l.OHl

446

Ctirifltmaa lake.

1,088

460

1,108

481

1,142

Nueva Ilolvetia.

505

1,158

521

1,176

536

1.197

553

1,239

571

1,256

1844.

1,264

Ian. 1

591

April 1

1,274

616

1.296

623

1,314

630

. 5

I.. -151

632

l,3(i6

647

Great Boiling upring.

1,416

658

1,422

668

1,453

678

1,493

684

Pyramid lake.

1,517

696

1,532

705

1,559

Pons ill tlio .Slerru No-

717

vada.

735

1,591

757

1,623

765

1,662

783

1,665

788

1,680

812

1,713

Spanish trail at Mo

826

hahve river.

851

1,733

871

1,766

896

1,774

908

1,799

920

1,842

927

1,854

938

1,861

964

1,885

Feb. 2

980

May 1

1,900

987

1,912

990

1,930

994

1,987

995

2,005

Rio Virgvn.

998

2,015

1,001

Summit of the Sier-

2,033

1 ra Nevada.

2,034

s>.

'^A

o . ^-^ ^.^^.

t- V

v-.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

%-.

1.0

1.1

111 lU 12.2

140

Hiotpgraphic
• Sciences
Corporation

<>.

23 WEST MAIN STREIT

WnSTIR,N.Y. USM

(716)t73-4S03

^'^.

■^^^

166

CAP'r. FREMONT'S NAURATIVE.
TABLli OF DISTANCES— Continued.

• : J

travel-
day.

.a ^^

Date.

Localitu<«.

Duto.

|5|

TxH'nliticM.

1844.

MHe».

Milr,.

1814.

Milr».

Milea.

May 10

2,05«

Jiiiio 22

15 ,

2,913

nnvoii Siilado, (South

2,070

Park.)

2,0S4

VcgaBilc^uiilttC'laru.

2,949

2,099

2.970

2,120

2.991

2,1.37

3,002

2.15-1

3,(112

2,181

3,033 '

2.203

3,003 I'uiltln, oil ilic Arkuu-

2,234

HILS.

2h>

2,257

3,100

2.2G9

Sevier rivor.

July I

'«,133 D.miI'h lort.

2,292 1

3,l.'i3

2,324

3,18-1

2(*

2,333 Utah luke.

3,215 '

2,355 ;

3,243 llond-\vnli>r of Smo-

2,380

ky Hill lurk of the

2,405

KuuHati.

2,43G

3,270

2.4.')2

3."i!»H

Juiw 1

2,468

3,322

2,476

3, .152

2.497

Uiiituli fort.

.•»,3<i2

2,523

3,:<y5

2,538

3,117

2,568 Green river, (Browu'ttI

3,141

' '

hole.)

3,470

2,604

3,499

2,634

3,.')22

2,GG4

3,.'->39

2,690

3,r.G5

2,716

3..^j87

2,739

3,606

2,764 New Park.

3,630

2,790

3,648

2,823

Old Park.

3,670

2,836

3,682

2,852

3,694

2,879

3,702

Kansas landing

2.898

Aug. 1

3,709

Miasouri river.

D. Appleton ff Company's Publications.
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liAI.^AII ROOKII. Hy Thomna Mooro 37 "^i

IKISII MKI.ODIKS 37 '4

NICirr TIIOinJIITl;!. Hy Thou. Young a7,.j

HISTORY OK UArt!^KI-AS. Hy Dr. Johnson 37'j

PRIVATK ni'.VOTION.S. Ry llannnh Moro 3Hi

PRAt'TICAIi I'IKTY. Hv Hnnimh Moro 75

SONCS OK Tin; AKFKOTIONS. By Mra. lli;nii.n»..3LS,
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IN Till

ARTS, MANUFACTURES, AND TRADES:

INOLUDINO

MEDICINE. FIIARMAIY, AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY.

DKBIONKD AB A COMrKNUtOUl

BOOK OF REFERENCE,

rOR TIIK

MANUFACTUUKIl, TIIADESMAN, AMATKUH, AND HEADS OF FAMILIES.

BY ARNOLD JAMES COOLEY.

ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMER0U3 WOOD EN3RAVINaa
FurmiiiK one liaiulxoiiio Volume, P^o., of 050 piigcs. Price 9i 'J5 Imiind.

Till dosiRP nnhc work nuw nircrnl to tliu public, U to (irewnt tin nccunto nnti ci>ni|M'nilii)ni cnlloctlon orroriniilai aim
INoceiaei, togcllicr with ii vurli'ly <>( imcriil iiirorniiition, sulliiblv to iliu crncnil n-Milcr, nml (irarlli'iil piir|)<)«('s.

In the |)rrri>riiiiiii(!C i>l° the luliorlntit tusk o( ciiiiipilutlon, tho princliNil iiim ha« iivi'ii in n-iiiirr tlim \\<i(k iis txtrnOvnly
uuful aa iMMslble, iis well \\h it rorrrcl, I'diiiprrlifn^iM', iiiid ('iinvi'ni>'iill>' iimiUKi'il iiiiiiiiial cif ri'lcri-iirc >ii tlic oiilijcrl* on
wliloh it irrni.t. It u III l>r niiiml u> I'lmlain (liri'Cti><n< (nr tlii' prcpMnillon ol'scvrril lliiiii>;iiMlar.ii'lc'<r)f ii.< :>■ t ai.it ulilily,
tp.rthcr Willi thpir properties, usp", nnil iloxc", nml ■ nrrally, iho iiirans nf nsrcrlalnlrc ihrlr piirtiy. f n ) rl^-rrr llrr "ifll
pre-wnco in oilier C(iiii|HiiiniU. In most cas<>.<, ihu iler!\ tiiiii of tin; iiainos, ami a >lii)rt lil-turlcal nolirc nf llir iiirre .n:|Hir
Mnt >ulwlHnce'<, have beun apitcndcd; and the vurious fcientilic and technical ternis iliat occur, hnvu licen penerully
dellncd, fur llin purpose ol' rriiderliit; Ihe work n.i »eir explanatory as possllile. A:! tlio naiiiea of siib^tnncc.*, eKiieclally
tiiose employed In iheiiiWlry, pharmacy, and meilidnc, have underline rr|ieatcil alterations, and even at the pre'^cnt day
Crrqacntly vary, lu applied by dilTerent Individuals, the old and nuw niiines, and llin usual Rynniiymes, English, Latin, nnd
Continental, have generally been Introduced, Tor the purimse of preventing inUtiikes, and lUcllltatlng referencu to mo:e
elaborate worki.

A general, rather than a iclentinc armngrmcnt hnx been adopted, liccnusn tho object nf the work is popular nnd uiil-
v«nai; and IhouKh likely to be occasionally lucful to men of science, it i.^ more cs|)ecially addressed t« practical (teniciis.
and the public at liirKO.

The sources froin which the iiinterlals of tho present work hnvo been derived, are such ns to render K dcservlnR of Ua«
Dlmost confldencc. The best and latest have been invariably resorted to, and Innumenble volumes, both Urilish and Con-
tinental, have iH-en consulted nnd ciim|>ared. A large |Hirlio'' of the wor'i has Ik'CU derived from the iiersonnl e.\|M'rieucu
of the Editor, and lliu processes of various laboratories and iiianiirniliiries, many of which he can highly recomini'iid, from
having Inspected their application on nn extensive -cnle. The Iruli-^criiiilnatu adoption of matter, witiio>'t kxaminatium,
has been uniformly avoided, and in no InsUince has any process been admitted, unless it rested u|K)n some well-known
fact of science, or came recommended on good authority.

Books of practical receipts in general, hitherto have been compiled with little regard to order or science. In thi.s
respect there was a vacancy to be filled. Bomething between the silliness of ignorant qiinckery, nnd the |iriifoiind and
extensive developments of l!re's Invaluable Dictionary, was wanted, adapled to domestic purposes, which ini|;ht jiratify Ilia
Amateur desirous to make u familiar ex|icrimcnt, and also Impart skilful directions to the Mistress of ihc llou'^elmlil, 'ipoii
•nmbcrlcss matters which constantly require her attention and Jisdginpiil.

Mr. Cooley*.s (.'vi-loimidia amply supplies the deficiency, in its :ipplic:iiiiin to all tho ordinary pur|H)scs of life. The
Means to promote eomfort and economy in the domicll nrc unfolded. Uakers, and Confictioners, and Uroccrs, es|)cclally,
wtU learn from It the most advantageous methods to secure good articles tit the lowest cost. Chemists and IlriiH):i-'ts will
comprehend liie iiiii''t iipproved and scienllfic methods to obtain tlie miP'sI etilcts of llielr pharmaceutical liibur'^. A;:ricnl
turUts will (11 ciivrr i<ie iiiii>i profitible manner to engage In a liirse v.iriiiy of their numerous occupations in the Dairy
Ihe Field, the Sl:ibli-, and the runii-yard. Manufacturers and MeelmMlcs who are engag> d in the working of Copper, Irbn,
Tin, Loud, <;iii-', I'lrftiinrry, tills, nnd Wool, will be lienefited by Ihe multiplicity of valuable inforniiilion in their rcrpcfr
Qts departments, ('allco Printers and Dyers, and the Workers In India Ilubber, also, will derive cxteii|te additions la
Ihalr knowledge from this Volume. Bookbinders, Taper Makers, and Typographers will alio And their bl|ffe$i explained,
while Dentists and Thonogrnphcrs will equally be Interested in tho increased knowledge which they will imbibe of tholi
MepecUve arts nnd professinni, from BIr. Cooley's laborious researches. Hence, hi* CTCLor«iUA or Feactical Bccurri
0ttm tm ■£ ntnon* advaatages nnpanllelcd by any timilor prodnctloB.

9 * ••

SUPPLEMENT TO DR. URES DICTIOXARY,

D APri.KTO.V II CO. IIWB JfST rUlil.lSIIKI),

RECENT IMPROVEMENTS IN ARTS. MANUFACTURES, AND MINES ;

B«ing • 8u|i|ilitmrnl to hli Diclioniry.

HY ANDRKW I'RK, M. I), F. R. H., *r , Ilc.

0«* Tiilamn.Hvu , nr:lOO|ifi(oa itn<l noir 'J'M ul tltor.ilo wool cult, in f>t|i<'r i:ov»r, 1 1, or iiiilioap t<i iimtcli tliu l)ictiuiiar]r,tl ^

Aiiii>ii;t<t ilin ni'iii) urticlai ontirsly new, »nil otbort truatoil at grualvr langtli in tliii luppltiinvnt tliiin lii llio futinrr ••!>
liiMM ul'tliu Uicliunary, will bo ruunil —

AriTic Aiiu— Alcohol— Ahiiow Root (Id gruwl^ trA |iro|icrti<'ii) -Ai>ti:ii4<i Willi (with a noli.;" of llin mrci mTuI
Uhofi of MM. Arago .uul Miilot at Groni'llo, nnir Pari*)— IUv^rmm Uklk ('• Ih.) mjritery of biuwinu it iik'Ih |iliilo»o|.liir«illjf
■tutllcit mill inroni|iiiriilil7 liottnr unilnriluuJ in Munich lliitn in I^nnlon, iiml tlirougliuut lluviiilu Ibun in Kri;:li>iiJ ") lltii'i'i ri
(with a coiii|ilii(u ili'icniiliuli, with flgurei,urth<- |jr(o Ailloioi>i<- ll.ikirit « ut Itci'trnnl inil I'uilriniouth.) lliTi'Mct (ila umi
onl inaniirirtnri'.) IIrk4|i (wiih an occount uf liio ('ii'in-li iiii|<rov<>iiii-nla, iirroinpiiiiicil with plaiK of ovna ) IIbilk iJak-
inu (now MK'tlioil, iiccuinp;inioil with illuitration* ) ('•■no rRi^ti<i(i (iilu<tr»ti'il with r'l.ilHii.itc i-iitt oCilic iniMt rcrunt im
proVMiiinnti.) Cti omkl ('ALorm (a ilcinriptiun of .Mr, Km 'I'iiIIhii'^ iinprovi'inciit on I'hiitojfraphy.) ('AiuM.i(n now pro
eBKi of the III inuf.ii'turo of) Caouiciiolt (full inforoMlion of lhi> rfcrnt upplii-iiiioii of Ciioiil ■lionc to Ih" urU, undfr Hook-
himliii;;, Ilrihliii^ .Mucliino iinJ KUitiu Uitnijii.) Chi.oratk un'oitiii ClloroLtrc (n nnw rontriltntion from cxIiMiiivr )>■
porinifliitiil rr^iMirrlicA.) CorPKK. I>Aiii!tiiRKoTTri (nn clilKiratr urtirlo ilrtcriptivc of nil Iho nuwl rei-mt iiiiprovfmi'ntR, 'lo
nunpiiniril with illu«trutlon«.) KLiciito-METALLUROT (n foil urrounl, with illiintrulion*, uf thin import. mt iippliriition of mi
rncu to till) 1141';- o: liff.) K^itMctLinu (account of a rorcnt patunl.) KvArniiATio^ (a new pntnit for generating, purifyin;-,
■ml roiiih'iniiis •team) F£iiilr^TATio!« (u u»i!ful ronipanion to account uf ll'ivaiiun Boor) KurL (an rlilioriito loriii ol
B»|K;riiiii'iili' on llin incanurnmaiit of hiiat, oiiil the i|ualiti<-i of <liir<-ri-tit kimli of Coal ) 0»t LiuilT (thi< arli.Io conlribultti
by an iiitu'lli;,'i'iit friuml of Dr. I'ru'i may bo coniitlcrix! aa a ulan aril tn-uliia on the lubji'Ct, itoccupica twenty luiir pngi>ii, hi>4
i* illuiilratiMl with many I'lulMirule ruta ) (•cLtTi?>B (arnornpanii-il with illuitrationa ) (lUA^to (n full ui-i-ount of thia im|M>r
laiit uitii'le for thu ,\{;rii'ulturi«l, from extnniive fX|>vriinont» on inmplca uf every ilracriptiun.) IIati. iLi.tiMi^ATioN, L'uai
of, (a valo.tlilu iirtiilu on tlio UilTuaion ami economy of I.iijht, with illuatration<.) Iro:< anil HiicLTiMii (ile«cription, with ftg-
area, ofthu \i'»\ pl.ma of tho apparatua for the hot uir lilaat, ami for fui-iling Iho hlaat furnace with minu, liinoatone, onil (Uul.)
LAMPa (on till) eoiMtriiction of Lainpa for burning apiril* of Tui|K>nlino otherwiau Ciiinphcno.) Liaiiicr («onie obncrvutioiii
on the proi'e.14 ufl' iiiiiin:;.) I.EArHER Morocco (it< manuficlurc.) I.r.ArHUR .SrLiTriMo (account of vurioui iiimlea with il-
u«tr itioiii.) Mai.t (tho quantity of malt coniiiinoil liy tho varioua breweriua of l>onili>n,) Mktallic Amai.> <i< (recent eco-
Hoiiiieu. -iii'ilioil of improving. IIctallic Htatiitici (rollectrd to the present pcrioil ) MiMCt, (ciulaining a iletuileil uv-
roniit ol thu »'orkiii|> of .Minea, with their prixluettona, in varioii, part* of Ihu world.) .Ml'>i|Ui:t (a itafo uinl ainiple conatrik'-
lion of, will) ili)t:illeil I'uta.) OiLi(tho in inuftrturoof .''kei* (.'Ri:aiii!<<i Q|ft,now forllio llrat time roproacnte.l hy u cumpleto aol
nTfijuri'i i-xliiliilinj; the various pnrta of tho W'eilgc Htaiiiping .^lill.) Paper (partirularu of tlin most rucent improvemontix
with illiHlratioiia.) I'kitkr. Pc«rl, Artificial anj DcADa (paitinilira of new machinery for tho niuuufacture, with ilhai-
iTittiona.) PiloTiKiRVPilT (ila proccaa ) PoTTER'a Ovem (a new patent.) PRl't«i«lE uf PuTAaii (ill nianuf.inliire, Willi illua-
trntioiii.) I'riiuLiMo of Inon (n new planofan economical furnace for converting caat iron into bar or nnlleaMu iron ) Hac-
tHARoMcrr.R (a nnw Irililo pointing out the proportion of auga.-, or the laccharino matter of mall, coni:iiiieil in tho aolulton I'l
any apocitie gravity. Hilr (new analyaia of.) Silver (tho extraction of from lead.) SMoKE-PnETK!<Tio:onptioiiahle,aiinpl'3 and aucceaaful plan for efTerting the rontiiinniation of aodoairablo an object ) i>i>u\ (now etpcrimoola.)
l'ri:<<iiNn (a short hut Hyatcmatic viow of the admirable aelf acting a^atcin. whereby all operation)! in a cotton factory ar )
linked together in regular aucceaaion, and co-operate with little or no manual aid, toward turning nul a perfect product.)
Kri^iTa (with a new table.) Starch (accompanied with a detailed illuatration.) Steel (a new iinproveinenl, with cut*. )
Srii.L (with til* iniixt rerunt French improvements. / Sugar of Potatoes (fully inveatigated from profexxionul roauurtwi )
Ti:a (rocenl n.TperiniuntH and ronmrka on ita pruportioa.) Tobacco (ia diacuaacd at conaidoralile length, chiefly friini evideuco
rocenily given before tho Ilouao of Cummona.) ToRToiaK-SHELL (ita manufacture into varioua iibjertx ) I'unrEMiiifa.
BriHiTa (experiniciita from varioua koata.) VErtTiLATio.t (Iho most improved mode.) Water-Mi. verai. (several tiiblca ui-
^ibiting the nature and composition of tho most celebrated mineral waters uf (le.nany ) White IjEao 'description oi a new

Mtunt.) Woou-l'AviNa (doacriptivo of tlio beat ayateni.) WoooPriiervimu (tho ayatein adoptu I by the inuxt cininont oagl-

^eni.) Zi.ic (recent improvement* in the manulacturc of thia metal.) With an Appendix entitled CiiLUUTitr SiuPLirisc;

Quide to Practitioners in toitin Alkalia, .^cida, and Itleaching Substancca, in several departmunta uf tho Cbomical Aria

BV THE SAME AUTHOR.
Recently Published, the fourth .Imcricanfrom the third London edition,

A DICTIONARY

ARTS, xMANUFACTURCS, AND MINES:

.:t;'^TAl.VING A CLEAIl EXPO-SITION OF THKHl PlU.\CIl'[.i:.S AND FK.VCTICE,

ILLU.STR.\Ti:0 WITH 1011 WOOD E.N'tJUAVI.NGS.
Dun atuut vuhimo, ivo, uf 131 1 pages, strongly liouaj in loatlier, $3 ; or in two vu|i|in>is, $5 50.
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* oiniiii'ir- ani industry, and an important addition to a sp Tics uf literature the exclu^iivo pro.luction of thu prcucnt con.
Mtv, and tli» piDsenl statu uf puacu and civiji/atiun. — iihen)rum,

l)r Vri'N Dietionury, of which the American edition 'n now coniplulud, is a sinpundoua proof of porsovpiiii:; assiduity, eonft-
'tlMd with guniiij -ind tasto. For all the benefit of inditidiial cnterprisu in thu practical arts and manufieinrea, and for tb«
rfihanceiiieiit oftjeneral prosperity through the oxtonainn of accurate knowledgo of (Hilitical oconoiny, wo have nut any work
^ortliy to bu runipared with this im|>ortant volume. We are c rnvmced that inaniifacturora, morchitnis, tradesmen, atudanU
rf* natural and uxpertuiuntul philoaophy, invenlivo mechanic*, men of opulonce, muiubora of legislatures, and all who deair* la
/Mnprcheiid something of the rapidly accelerating progress uf those discoveries which facilitate the supply uf hutnao waata,
jvl tho augmentation uf social comfort* with the oatiunal weal, will find tbi* iuvdluablo Dictionary a perennial iOiikM til
Mlutar/ instructioa and edif/ing eigo/ueat. — JVU. InttL «

VALUABLE AORICULTURAL WORKS,

puni.isiiiii) it\ I) Arrt.i:T(p\ ,\' co., joo juiOADWAV.
RURAL EC ON O M Y ;

CIIBMI.<<I'IIV, PIIVHIftf, AM) .Mi:ilMIl'>l.iii;vi <iu', tllKMIMTUY AI'l'UKU TO AtJUKLMIIlBi

iiy J. n. n()rissA\(;AULT,

Mi'nilic r ul'llii' liKlitiili' ■>! I'r ■nri', I'lr.

TnA\)»i,ATr,i), wiTir an ivriiuuniniv ^m» suikh, mv ukohuk i,\w, A«jniiM*LTiTia«T

One li:iiiiUiiiiiit voliiiiif, l','iii(i. of .'ilMI iKigfit. l'rii-(> | M,

•' Thf NiilijiM'iM iiri', V»'a«'lalili' l'liy'<Mil<i|(> , iiml ilic ('lirmiciil ('niiilitiitinn of Jin Hiit»'<iinii'i'n, Hir-
thnriix; rnnu iiinl Jiih'iv*, .Miiiiiiri--, Kniiiiinii iir<'r>i|M, Kt'>'iliii)(iir .\iiiiii;ili«, Aniiniil Origin, llniiioiiiy
of Aiiiinal'i, St<ii-k in (ii-nunil ami ilx jiroiliK.'lion nl' .Mainiri's, I'aiti-ninK i>l' DuiiicMlitr (4|(irk, ui><l Mulvor-
oinginal <'itn-iil<'rali<)iiit — nil iIkmk Munjfci't, willi '.Ix'ir sariouii luniii-i'tiiiim, aru iri-aliMl \>y tlxii auilior
id a rli'ar, alil<' and KaliHlactDry nianiDT, ami tin- pliilntniijiv ul' tlio \\ Imlu niatUT ('on.sitlfri.'il in ilit ruia-
linn nml a|i|>iir:iliilit y In m;;i ii'iiltnr>>. Tlii' wnrk is the i'ruil of a long lil'u itf hIuiI)' aiid u.xiiurinient,
nnd il4 |u<rii-<al will aid tlii' (arim-r gr<Mtly in nhlainiiig a piuriicul and ni iuntific knuwlcd^fu uf liiit
profexsimi " — .Imrricmi .lirriciilturi.it.

"To l.ii'lii;{ lii'lonjt!! iIk' merit of a di^rovcri-r. IIi- li-d ilio way in tlio ap|ili(-ali>)n of exact
•cienre to a!;rii'iiltiir 'iiit Ins 1-4, with all lli^^ traii»ii'ml>'nt nii-ril, a tri'int'iidoiiH tliPori/iT. No micli
ohjerlioti Iji-s a;r:iin-4t M Moiii-manK;iiilt, who |ir<>i'i'i-dM aN f-ari'l'iilly and irxpi'rinicnlallv a^ if in hia
own lal>oraiory,and texts all Win vii'ws iijion lii^ rami liefure giving tliein to (liii world It is tins that
givuH itiieli valiiii to Ills hook, xrhieh wi^ wan ily eoinim-nd to oiir axrieiilinral frientU. —///<//''/(> .Idc.

" A iiioru eoin|ileti> tnaiiiial i-aniiot liu de<irfd." — Coiirirr anil t'.niiuirrr.

•• W'e rejoieu that thiM work of an etniiieiil Fruiicli teaelier of Agrieiiltnral Sricneo linn boon
placed hel'oru tliu Aiiiuriean piihlie." — Tnlninn,

" Tlio inrorinatioii it impartrt is exeuedingly full and eoniprelienHivi) ; it liao for the farim-r tho
groat ineril of exemption from Hcienlifiir teeliiiiealities." — .V. V. I'ommrrrial .iilrrrlinrr.

" Wo arc Hali-tlied that a valiiahle addition has heun inadtt to thi* ainoiint of important agrieiillnral
information witlnn uiir reach. M. ltoiii.ssaii;;anlt ix not, l>y any ineatiH, n mere theorist, or man of
iciunnu — ho is a praetiral fanner, wali.liiiig elo.xely all tliu ujiurations of liin nlantation, and handling

'to Jay, an well as I no

tlio balance himself, weighing his ealves, tV'., from day to Jay,

liaii nscortained with cxaetneii!* the rosultd iiuw pro(liico<l.

TUB

Farmer's Cabinet

IWUMKR'S AM) KMIGIUNT'S HAND-BOOK:

prodiico ol' hii licldx,

BKIN(J

A FULL A\D COMI'LF.TP: Gl]]AJK FOIt TIIK FAKMRIl AM) EMKMIANT;

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AiiAiTKi) TO Kvi:iiv «"i,Ass ()|- rnrvTiiY Ki:siiii;.\is.

Ihj J T. M.inSII.ll.L, .hithnr of " The F.mi^^rant's Tnir (hiiili.'

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' D. A. A- CO. HAVE ALSO .ll'ST I'lllLISIlEP,

STABLE ECON'OMY;

bbi.no a tukatisi; o.\ tiik .M\s'\(;r,Mr.\r "r iini;.-*!.-!. i.\ i!i:t.\iiu.\ to staiii.!.\(j, r.Ruo.MiNU.

KKKOrNc;. VVATKItl.N*;, A.M) WOKKIMJ.

nV JOHN STHWART,

Veterinary Stirgeoii. and Intoty ProleMorof Vetorinnry Moilinific in tlio Aml'Tii'miin I'tiivi'r«ily, Oh«gow.
From tlie third Cnglifili edition, witii Siutua nnJ .Aililitiom. it.lniitiii^ ii t» Air -riiMii Pnoil mid Cliiniiii*. Ily A. !)• AlAIN,
Bditot ol the Anericaa Agr.julturiaU — Illu>li^iU-d with iiumurou* K'ljr ivjn^'t. O.io vuluiin!, IJino. Prko, 81.

■

STANDARD EPISCOPAL WORKS

PuhVuhed bif I). Aitpltton 4* Co., Nrw-York.
THE KINCJOM OF CHRI8T1 MAQEE ON ATONEMENT AND

Or, llliitii ri'i4|M<riiiig till- I'riiK-ipli't, ('i)iHiiliitiiiii,
Niiil Onlinaiici-K III' tint Ciilliulir ('liiircli. Ily
Trrilirirk hi'iiitmi Miiiirirf, M A., niii|iliiiii i>l'
(iiiv'-i MiMiiiliil, I'rnruH^iir III' r'.MKli!«ti l.ili'r.'itnri!
uii<i lli:4i<iry, KiiiK'n ('nllfj^r, l.nniliKi. (Iim-
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PALMER'S TREATISE ON THE
CHURCH.

K Tri'iitJHO (in llin (.'liiirrli nf Clirixl. Di'itigniil
I'liii'lK I'lr llio iiHi! i>rSliiilriiu ill 'I'ln-iilitKy Ity
lli« lliv Win. I'.iliiii r, M. A., nl" Wnrrf'ili'r
riilli';^!', Oxfiiril I'.ilili'il, wiili Niilt'H, liy tlm
ItiKlK l(.-v \V. H.WIiiltiiiKliiiii, I). I)., lliMlMi|i
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BURNET'S HISTORY OF THE RE-
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Tlio lliilnry ol'lln' llirnriii.iliiiii iifllii) (Iliiircli i/
Kii'.'l III'!, Iiy (iilliirl liiirtu't, l>. I)., lite Lord
niiliii|i III' SaliKliiiry — vvitli tlu! ('<illi'i:tiiiii (il
Ri'citi'iU aiiii a ri)|ii<iiiH liiili'x, icvi^i-ii iiml cor-
recli-ii, with aililitmiial Nntrs ami a l'ri'la<-i>, liy
till- |{.v. 1;. Nauw, I) I)., lain I'mii'ssiir iir.Mii-
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lll^t^ it' <l witli a rri>nlis|iii>ci) iiiiil twiMiiy-tlirce
|MirtriiN, rdnniii^ I'mir Hvo. voluiiii-s. -j-l.

riii-a|i I'diiiiiti, witlioiit till) ItiTiirds, 3 voliiiiiux,

Hvi

no.

BURNET ON THE XXXIX. ARTI-
CLES.

An llxponilion ol'tlii! 'i'liirty-Ninti .Xrtirlon of the
Cliiir.'li of r.iiglaiid, l»y (Jillii-rt Itiiriift, I). I).,
hitii l5isl'.o|) of .Salisli-.jry. With an .\p|i<!ndix,
ciiiil i'iiiiij5 llin .'Viij^Mliiir^ Conri'ssicin, ('rt'cd ol"
l'ii;i(' I'iiH IV , tVc. Ili'visfil and rorri'cti'd,
tvitli r(i|ii<iiH Noti's and additional Ri-ri'ri-iiri.'s,
by tliu Iti'V. Jaiiii;!* It I'agi-, A M., i>r(ini't!ii!<
Coili'gi', Cainhridgo. Omi vol., octavo. igi'J.

OGILBY ON LAY BAPTISM.

An Oittliiii- id'lliu Argiiinrnt afS.'iin.Ht thi.- Vaiidilv
of Lay ISa|ilisin. Hy Julin l>. Ogilliy, I) {)'.,
Prolissnr III' Mi'clusia.Ktical History. One vol.,
fiiino. 7'i v.U.

PEARSON ON THE CREED.

An I'<x|io.-iitioii of till' CriJi'd, l»y John IV.-ir.'jnn,
I). I) , lato nisliop of ('hii.NtiT. With iiii Ap-
pendix, <-oiitainiiig tlm principal (iriM:U and
Latin l-'rcnl.^. lli;visfd ami corrertcd hy tlie
|{i!v. W S. Dohson, .M. A., Piti rlioiise, Cam-
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SACRIFICE.'

l)iHriiiiriii>i« iind l>i4Ni>rliiiionii on tin' Si riplurul
DoL'IriiH'.v of AloiH'ini'iii and Sariifiif, :iiiil 011
ihn prinripal Argiinii'iili iidvaiii-i •!, am! llii*

mode of |{i'a'<onilli( I'lliplovi'd tiy (lie I >ppone|ll4
of ihoit" Ooi'trilleil at hi'iit \\y tli'' r.-Lilili^ln d
(liiirrh l(> the late im>~t !(• v Win. Mi{im'.
It. I) , \ri lilii^hiip of Dnliliii, 'I'vvii vidiiiiieo,
riiy.ii ""Ml , lieaiitit'iilly priiili d. '^'\.

THE PRIMITIVE DOCTRINE OF
ELECTION;

Or, an lliiitorii al Impiirv inio ijii< lijiaiiiy and
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rhri-l. Hy <Ji'cir(?i! Stanley Tain r, M. I) , au-
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Tor ofury Sunday and I'rimipal lliil\d.iv in ihi*
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PAROCHIAL SERMONS.

I're.K hed at ('l:i|.hain ami (ila>l>iir\ . Ity the Rev
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Till' t\vi< MiliiiiH'i of till' .\iiirriiMn oilillii'i, v'linlniiiing fmi
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Cfc^RCtTRlAN'S LIBRARY.

Thu ynK^t'i of ihi.s Heries are uiiil'iriu in *\\ le,-
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('iergy of tho Protestant I'.piseoiial Cliureli.

riio Crnni III riirlit ; .Mi.'ilit'iliiiiiii iiii uiir Hivl'iur.

IIIKIK

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(Xill.llV'H [rf'cturi'ii iiii llin (.'Iiii n'li in l''M;,'hiii<l iiml ,\iiii'ri<'>i

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wri^lit. I'Jiiiii i....l '.1.^

."^I'KM'KR'."^ Clirinliiui ln«lru('li'il in tlni \\';iyH ortl.ii (iinii, I

mill I III' Cliiiri'li, I (lino I >J.'i

.\i:U'M \.N"S .Suriii'iin iin Snliji'i-l. ol" lliii lliv. |-Jniii..l 'J.'i

M.W.M.Vi; on tlio I'lilty nl'tliii Clinri-li. Iilnio I IKI

.V KI''.MriS,ortlii> Iniitiition ol'i lirml. i'nin|i|i ti-, IG11111..I i).l

HIII:kI,i)('K'S rriidliiill'lirliiliiin. H^im I (iil

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\VII,S().\''.-< SaiT.i rrivaln, coiiipli'tr li'm I 00

nil'KTOV'S lli.l.iry ollho Kiirly Kiifli-li Cliiir.li I (10

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i^'ino 73

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SI 'TTO.N'S Dmre Vivrro, l.i.'urii tn l.ivo Mmu 1 00

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CIIKISTM.AS IIKI,I,.S, anilolliir I'liiniii. Ilinio 74

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T.WLOK'.S Kpiitropucy A««cili'il ami iMiiintaineil. JRino

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COMMON SCHOOL LIBRARY.

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I.itllii ( inn iiimpIi Care.
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Ho|>n on, lldiio ever.
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COMPLETE TEXT-BOOK OF HISTORY.

A MANUAL OF ANCIENT AND MODERN HISTORY:

By W. CooKE Tavuik, LL. D., of Trinity College, Dublin.

REVISED, WITH ADDITIONS ON AMERICAN HISTORY,

By C. 8. Henry, D. D., Prof, of History in the I nivereity of N. York.

One handaoma volume, Bvo., of em riagea. tte.as.

*a* For convenience aa a Claaa-book, the Ancient or Modem portion can be had aeparately.

I Ani'ICnt IIiDToaT, containing the Political History,
(iCUKriiphiail I'iMitlon, and Soclul Slate of the I'rlncliMl
Nntlon« of Antii|uity, carefully digested ftttm the .\n-
rleni Writers, and lllustmiea by the discoveries of
Miitlcrn dcliolnrs and Travolten.

Tliis iNirtiun li one nf the best compunds of Ancient
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.ail for the collcglnle lecturer; and Is an essential hand-
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with nil that if* memorable In general srralar archoioloffy.
n. MoPKax lits-mav, containing the Rise ami Progress of
tkn Priiicipnl Kiiropean Nations, their Political History,
ami (he CliiiiiBes In their Social Condition, with a History
lA the Colonics founded by Europeans, and a Chapter on
the United States.

This Manuiil of Modem History, hj Mr. Taylor, Is the
moat valiinlile and instructive work concerning the general
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whole department uf hlstorirjit litaraturo.

Mr. Ja|ikd BrAaas, In speaking of this Manual, says :

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students, and to the time allotted to them I'or this branch of

study, I im Inclined to think thiit work preferable to tlioite

which have preceded It."

President Siikldin, of the WatervlUe College, says of It:

" I hiivo devoted as much time as I have Deen able, m

an cxaniiniition of 'Taylor's Manual of Ancient anil Modem

llUtiirj' ;' nqd I feel prepared to s.iy, that I look upon It n^

the nioKt valuable work which I have seen, /vrfAr purpoin

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Hgtneral teit-book ofhlatory Is needed, the work of Taylor,
as iiiililislied hy yon, seems to me well litted (br the purnoae."
The following is fVom President Ibslbrooke, of East
Tennessee University. Speaking of the Manual, he toys :

" Ills an lavaluabln work. As a Text B<Mik or Manual of
genemi history, it is, in my opinion, unsurpaiased. The ad
ditlonal chapter on the hUtory of the United States, will
make It still more acceptable to Attieriean readers "

LECTURES ON MODERN HISTORY:

By Thomas Arnold, D.D., Author of "The History of Rome," etc., etc.
With an Introduction and Notea, by Henrt Reed, Prof, of EuRlish Literature in the Univeraity of Pennay Iv'a

One handsome volume, ISino. tl-SS.
mt Lectures were considered by their author as purely Introductory, and were intended lo exeile a more vivla
I tn the study of Modem History ; and there Is no book better ralrulated for tiiat purpose tlun this ; nor has r*" —
Ml lasned one so latensciy iaterestinc to Teacher as well as Pupil.
%* This voluma fimns a portion of the third series of the above l^lbrary

fOMMON

, coiiibiniug
Ifiiry. 'I1i«

r.'Ctrd with

inr.

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ByUM
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AU.

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RY:

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able to thme

le, Myi of It :
Dcen able, ti>
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ok upon It a«
r tht purpo$n
. . Wherever
rK of Taylor,
tho purpose."
nke, of East
ibI, he iiiyi :
or MhiiuhI of
eil. The a<l
I States. Witt
loni"

Pennaylv'a

a more vivki
DorhMtiMn