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Bibliographic Notes / Notes bibliographiques D D D Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Bound with other material/ Relii avec d'autres documents Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque D D D Pagination incorrect/ Erreurs de pagination Pages missing/ Des pages manquent IVIaps missing/ Des cartes giographiques manquent n Plates missing/ Des planches manquant Additional comments/ Commentaires supplAmentaires The images appearing here are the best quality possibie considering the condition and iegibiiity of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -^> (meaning CONTINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Les images suivantes ont At6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la htftteti de rexemp":- REPORT ON %KK Sir Sandford Flemlni QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS 1878 BY OEORCE M. DAWSON, D.S., A.RS.M., PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF PARLIAMENT. JDontreal : 1880. mmm f-^i ■.'**"■ ■ #■; SirSandfOrd ....... i ^ L i Ud, ' -T<" I; \h Mi ■■■■ !•■ "ii. - *i I Si. 'S I I 'i 13I» \\V' ^^ J \ 'IVfe iioi) . 4 '■■ ■V'i« Ak • r \ Hmlltnnrth ffo0* J\hiU or Hai-hoon Capr Fife 14 tl 13 23 U CaptBaU orXul-ltnr^r ''tpiiHtd shoal/ o M IB 22 14 16 12 •'Z.' 10 12 Ci ^ iwj*aA/ 12 12 13 13 /i 18 IS U IS 18 12 15 IS 12 13 14 « '» 18 12 ® P.O. 'igirlkKkii J» '^- 4 * •ntl'^'"' t/ ( ,,1-*'^"'"^ /oldshaM"' ', jjrtj- 20 IB . dray ' U) ♦ 'U M > Klmw^wtl Am*" r. IhtrlMon Williuni I Itim ry SeOTW^^ 31 M' JUmarhailt vhte oliff- C Gforge h "( 24 77 4S W 24 frowning Kntranpp A ,10 fi 37 3A 78 .1* *lt!/<«»»t.t fi**^**" llonilal.fl,,^ 1450'bljhJ X^v 13 35 1V»(7<- Hl^ iiJJ I'W"^: M V HallkutRl^t. n 71 Ik <*EOLo ALFI QUEEN I ■■M" RT 52" Miocene. Cretaceous. Ai/g/omrratrs anil Ash Horks probably Th'assir. JHaasic. Intrusive Granite, Diorite X'' lyj fjoralities vrhere fbssila older tkim Crefaremis have teen /mi nJ. fit.' Iron, tCu./ Copper m.1 Lead. M O R tJ S » V I S ti A IV D GEOLOOICAL SURVEY or CANADA A/rred R. C.SeLwyrv.F.R.S.,F.G.S . Director MAP of the QtTEEN CHARLOTTE ISLAXDS to illustrate report by George M. Dawson D.S, A.R.S.M.,F.G.S., SOURCES Of iJVfOffMA.rzoA': Jtun/tififf Surveys by G. M.Dawson t67S.-Skidef/fite. Irtlel, f/oitsfon Stewart Cftatttiel arte/ Soutufini/s, r/iie/ly from Admiralty PI ana. -Outline of Mcst Coast from Admiralty Plan, cerrrrted in lontfltude, i^ fy Dixon's rf Vnnroiivrrs bearinr/s. Drawn by Messrs. ffovey t(- Dawaori 10 s t""^ I I I I I I ^ T 1- Scales. If) — t— 20 NautLCul Miles. ID' s ' ■ ' ' I ' 10 20 Statute Miles. Katural Scale sotiVo. J33* 132* 1 1\\*** IJie Buiiand Lithograp2uc Co.JGmtnaJ. Q ^^'l1r GEOIiOaZCAL ST7HVE7 OF CAITADA. ALFRED R. C. SELWYN, F.R.S.. F.G.S., Director. REPORT ON TBI QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS 1878 ST GEORGE M. DAWSON, D.S., A.R.S.M., F.G.S. PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF PARLIAMENT. Montreal : DA-^V^SON BKOTHKRS. 1880. (". iV', ■!^- [•yr liAli I i'i To Alfred R C. Selwtn, Esq., F.E.S., F.G.S., Director of the Geological Survey of Canada. ':m Sir, — I beg to present herewith a report on the exploration of 1878 in the Queen Charlotte Islands, bearing principally on the geology and geograjihy of the islands, but including as appendices reports on the Haida Indians and on the zoological and botanical collections made, with a table of meteorological observations and notes on the latitudes and longitudes of places. In Appendix C, Mr. J. F. Whiteaves has embodied the result of an examination of some of the marine inverte- brates. The Survey is indebted to Mr. S. I. Smith of Yale College, and to Prof J. Macoun of Belleville, for their gi-atuitous services in preparing reports on the Crustacea and plants respectively. I have the honour to bo, Sir, Your obedient servant, GEOEGE M. DAWSON. Montreal, May 1, 1880. I mVkM. mi '■,) fe'. ' I POSJ GEOL Tr Cr Tei Gl. TABLE OF CONTEI^TS. :;.i'' -: (B.) PAQE POSITION, DISCOVERY AND EARLY HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS . . 2 Position and general character of the islands 2 Vancouver's description of the west coast 4 Juan de Fuca and De Fonte 6 Perez, Bodega, Maurelle and subsequent explorers 8 Furs, gold and coal 12 Surveys and sketclies 13 General Dbschiption op the Islands 14 Prevost Island 14 Moresby and neighbouring islands 16 Skincuttle Inlet 17 Juan Perez Sound 21 Laskiek Bny 25 Cumshfwa Inlet 27 Skidegate Inlet •. 29 Skidegiite to Rose Point 32 Masset 34 Masset to Noi th Island 38 Notes on west coast , 41 Notes on timber, climate and fisheries 42 GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS 45 General remarks on the rocks of the Queen Charlotte Islands 45 Notes on the map 47 Tabular view of formations 48 TniAssic 41) CUETACEOI'S COAL-BBARINO RoCKS 63 Skidegate Inlet 63 Cumshe«a Inlet and coast between Cumsliewii and Skidegate 77 North-western extremity of Graham Island and North Island 83 Tertiary. GlAOIATION and Sll'ERFIOIAL DEPOSITS 89 Glaciation of Queen Charlotte Islands 89 Facts indicating changes in elevation 94 Notes on glaciation and superficial deposits elsewhere on the coast. 96 General remarks on glaciation 98 ■U'f: ' » *l ' IV TABLE OP CONTENTS. APPENDIX A. ■I (B.) PAGE ON THE HAIDA INDIANS OF THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. . 103 Physical peculiarities and dress 104 Food 109 Social organization 116 Religion and 'medicine' 121 Potlach, or distribution ot property 126 Dancing ceremonies 127 Social customs 129 Arts and arcbitecture 137 Traditions and folk-lore 1 49 First contact with Europeans — Fur trade 154 Villages 161 Population l7l V. APPENDIX B. VOCABULARY OF THE HAIDA INDIANS. (B.) PAGB 177 APPENDIX C. "" (B.) I'AOB ON SOME MARINE IXVERTEBRATA FROM THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS BY J. F. WHITEAVES 190 Spongidffi, Hydroida, xinthozoa, Ophiuroidea 191 Asterioidea 182 Echinoidea, Brachiopoda, Lamellibranchiata 195 Gasteropoda 200 Annelida 205 APPENDIX D. (B.) PAOB NOTES ON CRUSTACEA FROM THE QUEEN CHARL01TE AND VANCOUVER ISLANDS BY S. I. SMITH 206 Brachyura 206 Anomoura 211 Macrura 212 Cumacea 215 Isopoda, Cirripedia 218 fDS. (B.) PAGE 103 104 109 115 121 125 127 129 137 149 154 161 171 (B.) PAGB 177 (B.) I'AQB OTTE 190 191 182 l'J5 200 205 TABLE OF CONTENTS. V APPENDIX E. ~ (R) PAOK LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS BY J. MACOUN 219 APPENDIX F. . , ~ (B.); PAQI METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS 224 APPENDIX G. "" (B.) I'AOB NOTES ON LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES 233 mm W-1 (B.) PAOB AND 206 206 21J 212 215 218 :■■' t t . iM. h;i r I I \ i P4 I \\ REPORT ON TUB QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS, BY GEOllGE M. DAWSON. D.S., A.R.S.M., F.G.S. .^^■■^l r,* :- The present report treats almost exclusively of the Queen Charlotte Equipment ^^j Islands, to which the greater part of the time employed in exiilorationj^i'^JJ,^®*"'''® during the summer of 1878 was devoted. Some difficulty was ex- perienced in obtaining a suitable craft for the passage from Victoria to the Islands — a distance of between 400 and 500 miles — and for the suc- ceeding exploratory work. It was nbt till the 27th of May that I, and my assistant, Mr. Rankino Dawson, were able to leave Victoria in the little schooner Wanderer. Our schooner was of about twenty tons burden, and the crew consisted of throe men, besides ourselves. She was provisioned and fitted out for the entire summer on leaving, as it was improbable that wo should be able to renew our supplies ex- cept b}'^ leaving the region to be examined, and at the expense of con- siderable time. Our force was occasionally supplemented during the summer by one or two natives with local knowledge. Calms, head winds and currents met with in the channels between Vancouver Island and the mainland rendered our progress to the north-westward very slow. We, however, reached Houston Stewart Channel, in the southern part of the Queen Charlotte Islands, on the 12th of June, and from that date to the end of August was occupied in the exploration of the islands. On the return voyage a preliminary examination was made Explorations J tr> I J on Vincouver of the coal measures of Quatsino Sound, and those lying between island. Beaver Harbor and the Nimjikish River, on Vancouver Island. This part of the season's operations is not here reported on. A visit was also made to the Baynes Sound coal-bearing region, at the request of some gentlemen interested in it, and Victoria was reached on the even- ing of the 17th of October. Some observations made on the superficial ! ! 'tf I ii f 2 B Dad weather. ResullH of Iht' seoson'K work. (lEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Position of the Inlands. do]X)«itH of tho mainlund and in tho vicinity of Vuncouvcr Jsluiid nro includod in tluH report with tl»o.so bearing on tho Qiieon Churiottu Islands, for tho purpose of rendering those more complete. The Avoathor during a groat part of our stay in the (^uoon Charlotte Islands was very unfavourable, being stormy and calm by turns, and exceedingl}' wot. Tiiis involved much discomfort and some delay, and combined with tho unexpectedly intricate character of tho south-eastern part of tho islands, which occupied much time, rendered it impossible to extend the systematic exploration to tho west coast. The exploration, though particularly devoted to tho geological fea- tures of tho country, necessarily involved the maintenance of a careful running survey, checked by observations for latitude taken as fro- (piently as tho weather and other circumstances admitted. Meteoro- logical observations were carried on with as much regularity as possible during tho entire season, A number of plants were collected and preserved. These have since been forwarded to Pi'of. Macoun, who has kindly furnished a list of them. Some time was also devoted to dredging, and a large quantity of material obtained in this way or collected along the shores has been handed to Mr. Whiteavos for examination. Sixty-three 2)hotograph8 were taken on prepared dry plates, most of which have proved satisfactory on development. They illustrate points of geological and picturesque interest, and also the peculiar carvings and architectural devices of the Ilaidas. These had not before been photographed, and owing to tho rapid progress of decay it will be impossible to obtain satisfactory^ illustrations of them in a few years time. Position, Discovery and Early History op the Islands. Tho Queen Charlotte Islands, so named by Dixon in 1787, form a compact archipelago, separated by wide water-ways from tho islands which fringe tho shore of the mainland of British Columbia to tho west and the coast of the southern extremity of Alaska to the north. Dixon Entrance or Sound, to the north, has an average breadth of | thirty-three miles. Like most places on this coast, it has boon several times re-named. The name Perez Inlet was given to it by Bodega in 1775, and it has also appeared on maps as Douglas Entrance, Granitza | Sound and Kygahne Strait. The water between tho Queen Charlotte Islands and those fringing the mainland to the west has boon named on some charts, rather inappropriately and in quite modern times, Hecate Strait. It has a rudely triangular form, with a width at tho south, between Capo St. James, and Day Point, Milbank Sound, of eightj^-oight I miles ; at the north, between Eoso Point and Stephen's Island, twenty- QUSEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 8 11 Island nro V Charlotto in Chtti-lotto ' turns, and delay, and c)uth-ca«tcrn t impossible jological foa- 3 of a careful aken as fro- ,d. Moteoro- ty as possible collected and Macoun, who 80 devoted to II this way or ;Vhiteaves for prepared dry pmcnt. They ;, and also the 8. These had id progress of itions of thorn Islands. |n 1787, form a )m the islands iiimbia to the la to the north, [age breadth of 1 as been several t by Bodega in Irance, Granitza •uoen Charlotto been named on In times, Hecate | Ih at the south, of eighty-eight I Island, twenty-! seven miles, this being the Hhorlost traverse from any part of the (^iioen Charlotte Islands to those adjacent to the mainland. Tlie islands maj' be '^gardod as a ])artly submerged mountain range. General char- being a continuation north-westward of that of Vancouver Island andiHiand*. the high i-egion of the Olympian Mountains of the north-western angle of Wasiiington Territory. There is, however, a wide attaehnKMit of low level land, forming the whole north-eastoi-n j)art of (Jraluini Island. A line drawn from the southern extromit}- of the islands to their north- western point has a bearing of N. 2.5° W.,* and this may be taken as representing the dirocticm of the mountain axis. The islands are included in north latitude between 54" 15' and 51° 55', in west longi- tude between 131° 2' and 133° 5'. The extreme length, from point to point, is one hundred and fifty-six miles ;t the greatest width, in a direction at right angles to the length, fifty-two miles. It is impossible to form even an ap]>roximatoly correct estimate of the arcii of the islands, owing to the uncertainty which still obtains as to the true position in longitude of the west coast. The islands forming the main chain, and representing the mountain axis are, from south to north, Pi-evost, Moresby, Graham and North Islands. The first was named after Captain (now Admiral) Prevost. North Island, so called by Dixon in 1787, was named Isle de Langara by Caamano. Prevost Island has a length of eleven and a half miles ; though I believe that ' the extremity of the land forming Capo St. James is separated from Prevost Island proper by « narrow channel. Moresby Island is seventy- two miles long, but the explorations now reported on have resulted, by the tracing out of the channels on its east coast, in leaving it a more skeleton. Graham Island has a length of sixty-seven miles, with the width above assigned as the maximum of the group. Noi-th Island is about five miles in extreme length. The separation of the larger islands may be said to be accidental, as it does not depend on any fundamental structural ft iture, but on the casual inosculation of inlets or fiords which characterize both the eastern and western coasts. Prom the southern extremit}- of the islands to Cumshewa Inlet, in Coast line, latitude 53°, the east coast is dissected with inlets, which generally have bold rocky shores, and either end blindly among the mountains or inosculate laterally with others, cutting out largo islands. The inlets in their main directions conform to two principal i)oarings, being either nearly parallel with or tnin8Ver,se to the direction of the main mountain axis. They are generally deep, and northward to the latitude of Laskeek the sea to the eastward is so also. Beyond * This and other bearings throughout the report are given with rolorenoo to the true meridian. t Distances in this and the succeeding descriptive portion of the report are stated in nautical wiles. •«\,i. ■wy-> i,: ■,(•. -ifl >•'.■-' ) •< 4 B QEOLOOICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. ' I K M I i „ ;(■' li thia place banks begin to appear, and the northern jiart of lleeuto Strait in comparatively ([uito hIiouI. Channels Mirnilar to those ])eno- .. , trating the mountain axiw further houth ai-o represented in (Jraiiani iisland by the expanMiouH ot AlaHHOt Inlet and itH aHsociated lakcrt, and by Naden Harbor. In the case of Maswet Iidot, however, a wide border of low land cuts the iidots off from direct communication with the wea to tho east. TIuh has been brought about in the manner e.\j)lained in a subseciuent division of this report which treats of the superticial Mountnins andgeology. Tho highest and most rugged i)art of the mountain axis of owian s. ^^^ inlands is found in latitude 52° 30', where many peaks boar con- siderable patches of perennial snow, and rise to altitudes probably surpassing 5,000 feet. Southward, high mountains are again found opposite Burnaby Island, but toward Ci;po St. James the landgrailually falls. About Houston Stewart Channel none of the summits probably sui'pass 2000 feet. Northward, about the lieads of Cumshowa and Skidegate Inlets, and on Louise Island, the land is very jugged, with many summits exceeding 3000 and 4000 feet. Beyond Skidegate, however, in CL.iinection with the appearance of the Tertiary forniation, tho surface becomes much loss mountainous, and though the axis of the islands is still avoII marked, tho mountains ahout the head of Masset Inlet appear seldom much to surpass 1000 feet in height, and neai- North Island low hills only occur. Graham Island may, in fact, be divided into two differently characterized regions by a line drawn from Image Point, Skidegate Inlet, to Jal-un Eiver, on the north coast. To the south-westward of this line is a country hilly and even mountainous, but so for as observed almost always densely forest-clad, with trees which attain lai'go dimensions where not too much exposed. North- eastward lies a low, flat or gently undulating country, which seldom exceeds 300 feet in elevation. This countrj'^ is also densely wooded, the trees often attaining magnificent dimensions. The west coast of the islands was examined in a few places only ; a concise description of it is, however, given by Vancouver, who coasted along it in September, 1793, from North Ii^land southward. As little can yet bo added to this, it may be o noted entire.* Vancouver's " From this point, which I have called Point North, wo found Uirwest*co°6t. general trending of these shores first take a direction S. 14 twenty-two miles to a projecting land, appearing like two islands, the west extremity of which I named Point Frederick [Frederick Island], and then S. 17 E., twenty-six miles to a high, steep, cliti'y hill, named by Mr. Djxon Hippa Island; this ended in a low projecting point to ' • A Voyage of Discovery to the N. Pacific Ocean, (SL'c. London, 1801. Vol. IV.i p. 283 cf eci?. ■ - • t Printed N. 14 W., by an accidental error. QUEEN rriAHLOTTE ISLANDH. 'ftB the iiorth-onHtwnrd, oil' wliich Ho some brcakoi-H, though at no groat vnncpuvcr'n (listanco. Tho coaHt to tho N.N.E. and S.K. of Hippu Mmd appoarccl i^'^wost con/t. to bo much broken, particularly to tho Houth-eastwartl, whoro a vory cxtoiiHivo Hound takoH an easterly direction, named by Mr. Dixon IJonneH's Sound ; its entrance, by our observations, is in latitude 53° 28', longitude 127° 21'. Having reached this extent about dark, we liauleil our wind, ami plied under an ea.sy sail to pronorvo our station until tho next morning. At the dawn of the following day, Wednesday, the 2r)tli, wo continued along the coast, composed of steep, mountainous precipices, divided from oach other by tho Avator ; those Hcomed to have gradually increased in height from Point North, from whence along tho shores to this extent were (-omo scattered islets and rocks at a small distance from the land. Our progress was slow, tho wind being light, accompanied with pleasant weather. At noon, in the ob.sorved latitude of 53° 2', longitude 227° 22', llii^pa Island by compass bore N. 42 W., and a conspicuous projecting point near tho southern-most land in sight, which I named Capo Henry, S. 82 K. ; these forming tho outline of the coast, lie from each other 8. 32 E. and N. 32 W., 15J leagues apart. This cape, situated in latitude 52° 53', longitude 227° 45^', forms the south point of a deep bay or sound, its shores apparently much broken ; to this I gave the name of Englotiold Bay, in honor of my much esteemed friend, Sir Henry Engletiold. [Since partly surveyed]. Its north point of entrance, lying from Cape Henry N. 27 W., at tho distance of seven leagues, I named Point Buck, which also forms the south point of entrance into a sound falling deep back to tho eastward, named by rao Cartwright's Sound. Its north ])oint of entrance, which, likewise after my vory particular friend and physician, I named Point Hunter, lies from Point Buck N. 25 W., distant ten miles, and a little within this line of direction is an island near the northern shore. '' Prom Capo Henry, which wo pas.scd in the afternoon, at a distances of four or five miles, tho shores, so far as wo had reached by sunset, seemed to be compact, and to take a more easterly direction. Tho southern-most land in sight bore by compass S. 7? E., the nearest shore N.N.E. five milos, and the northern-most land ii ^ight N. 33 "VV. During tho night the wind was light and variable, j^^ which means our distance from the coast was increased greatly beyond what I had intended. At daylight on Thursday, the 26th, the land near the south extremity of Queen Charlotte's Islands, which is named by Mr. Dixon Capo St. James, was seen bearing by compass S. 87 E., the northern- most land in sight N. G8 W., and the nearest shore N. 11 W., four or five leagues distant. "With a favorable though light breeze, our course was directed Ml i. li r e B QEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA, I'll' < Ik r iS' !i Voj-nge of Juan Do Fuca, Narrative of Do Fonto's voyage along tho shore, but at too great a distance to admit of our making any particular or exact delineation of it ; nor is the sketch we were enabled to obtain of these islands to be considered as correct, or to be depended upon, because their nunaerousdivisions would have demanded a survey that would have occupied infinitely more time than we had now to bestow. Our examination was wholly confined to tho general dii'ection of tho shores, and to ascertain the position of their conspicuous projecting points. Towards Cape St. James the land was very mode- rately elevated, but, like that on the northern part of the islands, it rose gradually to rugged and une\en mountains, which occupied the centre of the countiy, descending towards its extremities to a less height, and is of a more uniform appearance." On the discovery and earlier voyages to these islands and adjacent regions, a few notes may be given, forming an interesting page in the history of our knowledge of the West Coast of America. In 151)2 tho Viceroy of Mexico fitted out a caravel and pinnace to discover the ' Straits of Anian.' The origin of tho name Anian appears to bo obscure, but it was used to designate a supposed northern passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The conduct of the expedition was entrusted to a Greek pilot, Apostolos Valerianos, com- monly called Juan de Fuca. The story of this navigator, which need not here be quoted, has been doubted, and no record of his voyage can be found among the Spanish archives of the period, which have now come to light; but the accordance of his statement of the occuri-ence of an important opening in the coast of the continent in a latitude approximately given, with the fact of the existence of the strait afterwards in 1788 called by his name by Moares, establishes a sti'ong presumption in favor of his veracity. Do Fuca may therefore be supposed to have been the first to discover any part of the territory now forming the Province of British Columbia. It is related th:it in 1639 the Court of Spain, having intelligence of "some expeditions attempted in that year hy the people of Boston, New England, Bartholemcw Do Fonte was appointed to command a squadron fitted out at Callao, in Peru, to oppose them.* His vessels were named tho Holy Ghost, Saint LxicAa, Rosary and King Philip. The details of his voyage are circumstantially given, but it is unneces- sary to quote them. Leaving Callao in KUO, ho sailed northward along the Pacific Coast, and entered wha!; he^called the Archijielago of St. Lazarus on tho 14th of June. This is said to be situated in 53° N. latitude, and through it he sailed 260 leagues in intricate channels among islands, making some very exti-aordinary geographical dis- • Observations on tho Passage between tho Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, i&c. Portamouth, 1793. W.Goldson, ,'/ •» QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. Tb [C. W.Goldson, covories. It is customary to suppose that tho account of this voyage its supposed is a mere fiction, and it may be so, but it is worth pointing out that it™"" '"'' ^" shows some signs of being at least founded on fact, though the distances and other circumstances are evidently gi'ossly exaggerated, whether by De Fonte himself or some compiler of the account of the voyage. ; The latitude given — for which somewhat wide limits of error must bo allowed — runs nearly through the centre of the Queen Charlotte Islands. Such a navigation as De Foute describes, among islands, may Reasons for have been made anywhere on this part of the West Coast. His stale- importance to ment does not seem to imply that tho 260 leagues was made in miy one direction, if any value bo set on these figures. Subsequent writers interested in making out a case for the North-west Passage, have fitted in Do Fonte's descriptions with the view of making them reach as far as possible across the continent.* The very statement of the exist- ence of an cxtensh'e archipelago in this latitude should go some way in proving the partial authenticity of the narrative, as the character • of that part of the West Coast then known was quite opposed to such an idea. In a ' river' up which he sailed he says there was a fall of water till half flood, but that an hour and a quarter before high water the flood begins to set strongly into a ' lake.' Such places are not uncommon among the intricate fiords of this coast. One between tho two expansions of Masset Inlet would almost precisely answer the description. One of his oflicers, Bernardo, is said to have examined a certain river with three Indian boats, each made of a tree 50 or 60 feet long, accompanied by two Jesuits, 20 of his own people, and 36 natives. In size, number of persons which they are fitted to contain, and mode of construction from a single tree, those exactly correspond to the fine canoes which the Indians of this part of the coast actually make. Lastly, as Goldson points out, the names Conibasset, Conasset, Arenna Mynhasset closely resemble some found on the coast. This resemblance is more, howevei-, with the names ending in at or aht of the Indians of the west coast of Vancouver Island and Capo Flattery or Classet. In response to a request b}' Mr. J. F. Whiteaves, when engaged in g„^"'\^^'b"* working out the collections of fossils obtained by Mr. J. Richardson in W.H. Daii. tko Queen Chorlotle Islands in 1872, Mr. W. II. Dall, well known by his researches on the West Coast, furniwhetl a memorandum on the earlier voyagers to the (Juccn Chai'lotte Islands. f This I have made the basis of the following chi'onological record of discoveries up to the time of Vanv^ouvcr, amplifying it considerably, and making a few corrections. , . -^^— ^^——^^——— ^^—^— »———.— ^—^—^—^^-^^—^— .^^■^^.——^-^■^.^—^—^^— ^-—.^-^^—^^—— .^^^^^^^^_^— ***■ * This may be soon in a Map by Mr. De I'Isle. 1752, and in the Map aooompanying Goldeon'a volume. vf* t Published in Vol. I, Part 1, Mesozoic FossilBt 1870. '■.■•'■it:! :■'■'':■ ■< I :-^.i 8 B OKOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Voyage of Ptrez. Bodega and MaaroUe. Cook. I i On tho 25th of Januaiy, 11*74, Ensign Juan Poroz, previously em- ployed in tho 31anilla trade, sailed in the corvette Santiago, from San Bias, touching at Monterey, California, from which he sailed June Cth, on an exploring expedition to the north, accompanied by Pilot Estevan Martinez, and Rev. Fathers Pc nd Crespi, chaplains. The first land seen, July 18, 1774, was that o iho Queen Charlotte Islands, in lati- tude 54°, to tho north point of which Perez gave the name of Co. de S. Margarita [North Capo of Vancouver], and to the high mountains, Sierra de San Cristoval. Finding no anchoi-age, they turned south- ward without landing, and on the 9th of August anchored in a port stated to be in latitude 49|^°, and probably Nootka Sound. This he called Port San Lorenzo. The authorities for this voyage are the nar- ratives of Perez, observations of Martinez, and the journal of Friar Pena, MSS. copies of which were obtained from the Imperial Archives of Madrid, by the United States Government, in 1840. An account was also published in 1802, in tho introduction to the voyages of the Sutil and Mexicana. This was the first voyage actually knoicn to have been made northwards by the Spaniards after 1603. Immediately after the return of Perez, Vicei'oy Bucarelli ordered another expedition to examine the coast as far as latitude 65°. Captain Bruno Ileceta, in charge of the Santiaijo, with Perez as ensign, and the schooner Sonora in charge of Juan de Ayola, with Maurelle as pilot, in company Avith the schooner San Carlos, sailed from San Bias, March 15, 1775. The captain of the San Carlos became insane before they Avere out of sight of land, and Ayola was detached to take his place, and stopped at Monterey, while Lieutenant Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra took his place in charge of the Sonora. Most accounts are erroneous in stating that Aj'ola accompanied the expedi- tion northwards. The schooner was attacked by the natives near Destruction Island, north of Cape Mendocino ; and being very unwilling to proceed, Ileceta, in the Santiago (with Perez), seized the opportunity to return to Monterey. Bodega and Maurelle. in the schooner Sonora, liowover, kept on their way. They saw Mount Edgecumbo about tho middle of August, and aftei-wards landed in Port Ilomedios (the Bay of Islands of Cook), and, sailing down the coast, named the strait north of Queen Charlotte Islands, Perez Inlet [now Dixon's Sound], and coasted along the shores of the said islands at a considerable distance, without examining tho capes and bays. They then returned to Monterey, doing a little surveying on the Oregon and Californian coasts by the way. These expeditions of the Spaniards in tho North Pacific were singu- larly barren of geographical results. What information was obtained was, moreover, carefully concealed. When Cook, therefore, began the QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 9 B exploration of this pfirt of the coast of America, he was absolutely Avithout authentic i-eports of its nature. His instructions, based on the fact that Ilearno had found the extent of the American continent to be very great northward, were to begin a search for a jiassago to Hud- son's Bay north of the G5th degree. He did not visit the Queen Charlotte Islands. Ho left King Geoi-go's Sound (Nootka) for the north in April, 1T78, but owing to stormy weatlier did not sight the land again till he reached latitude 55° 20'. In 1786, La Perouso coasted along the shore of the Queen Charlotte i^pg^oygp Islands, and was the first to suggest their separation from the main- land. (Arteaga and Bodega, in 1779, did not visit them.) He named (on his chart), in the north part. Bale do Clonard ; » bay in the south part, Baic de la Touohe ; the south cape, Cape Hector, and some small islands oif it, Isles Kerouart. Ho sailed to the eastward sufficiently to satisfy himself that a deep irdet extended between the islands and the mainland. His Isles Fleurieu are on the main coast, south and cast of the (Jueen Charlotte Islands, and arc the Princess Hoj'al Islands of Duncan. He gave no name to the Queen Charlotte Islands. In 1786, Captains Lowrie and Guise, in the Captain Cook and Vesfois viMting Experiment, fitted out in Bombay, visited, in the course of a trading ivlo.*''"" voyage, the Queen Charlotte Islands. They have left no information on record in regard to it, but as they are said to have sailed in a direct course from Queen Charlotte Sound (which they named) to Prince William's Sound, it appears not unlikely that they passed inside the Queen Charlotte Islands. In the same year. Captain Hanna,* in the Sea Otter, fi-om Macao, is stated to have traced the coast northward from Nootka to nearly the 53rd degree of latitude, and probably visited the Queen Charlotte Islands. In September, 1786, Captains Portlock and Dixon, in the King George and Queen Charlotte, made the land of the west coast of the islands, near Hippa Island, but finding " no harbor nor the least sign of any inhabitants," bore up and stood to the southward. In 1787, Dixon, in tho Queen Charlotte spent more than a month Account of the on the coast of tho islands (July 1st to August 3rd). He gave the ij'ixon." ""^ ■•tfl 1 H >, name to the islands which they still bear, also Dixon's Entrance, North Island, Cloak Buy, Hippa Island, Ilennell's Sound, Cape St. James and Ibbitson's Sound. With the exception of the last, which is now called Houston Stewart Channel, all these names still hold- Dixon did not land anywhere, but the anonymous narrator of his voyage devotes 29 pages of his volume to the proceedings on the coast of the * Cuptnin Hanna njipeiirs to have been tlie first to engjiBc in the fur trade on the coast of what is now British Ooluania. lie failed from China in a brig of about (iO tonp, roachirR King (toorore's Sound (NootltH) in August, 1785, and fold his car;.o in Canton the following year for S2U,600. Captain Cuok had indicated Nooxku as the best place knonn to him for tho trade. 10 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. be insular. Views publish- Queen Charlotte Islands. Many interesting details concerning the e< y ixoD. inhabitants are given, and though the map accompanying his volume- is rough, his numerous bearings have been of essential value in fixing the position on the chart of the yet unsurveyed west coast. He also gives a view of Hippa Island (p. 205), sketches of Cape St. James and the island now called Frederick Island (p. 214), an excellent plate of a Haida woman with labret (p. 22G), and illustrations of a wooden dish, labret and spoon (pp. 188, 208). On the 2nd of July he attempted to enter Cloak Bay and Pai-ry Passage, between North and Graham Islands, but was prevented from doing so by the strength of the tide. Caj)tain Dixon subsequently sailed southward along the whole west coast, coming in with the land by day and standing off at night. On July 25th (St. James' Day) he rounded the south point, with the Land proved to intention of circumnavigating the islands, but owing to light variable winds, turned back, after having cruised northward on the east coast to a latitude given as 52° 59', but which may probably have been about half-way between Cumshewa and Skidegate Inlets.* In this position, high land was in view to the north-west, neai-ly 30 leagues distant, which was identified as that seen when near the north end of the islands^ proving to Dixon's satisfaction that the land he had been coasting along for nearly a month Avas a group of islands. Dixon surmised that the land was not continuous from meeting some of the same people on both sides. During this visit to the Queen Charlotte Islands, 1821 sea otter skins were purchased, which at the prices then current in Can- ton must have been worth about $90,000. Dixon met, on his return, off the entrance to Nootka, Captains Colnett and Duncan, in the Prince of Wales and Princess Roijal, which had been fitted out in London by the same company of adventurers that Dixon himself was connected with. On August 9th, 1787, they parted company, Dixon steering for the Sandwich Islands, Colnett and Duncan for the Queen Charlotte Islands. In 1788, Duncan sailed through the strait between the islands and the mainland, which we do not know to have been done previously. He also named the Fleurieu Islands (of La Perousc) the Princess Royal Islands, after his vessel. In August of the same year, Captain Douglas, in the Fphigenia, fitted out in China, coasted along part of the north shore of the islands, rounding Rose Point, and naming it. He then sailed southward, between the islands and mainland. In 178^ Captain Robert Gray, of the sloop Washington, of Boston, visited the oast coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. Ho appears to have left Nootka for the north in April. Gray called the islands Washington ('olnctt nnd Dunmn. Douglas. (•ray. * There is some uncertainty in Dixon's latitudes aboiit the south part of the islands. The latitude (fiven would place him opposite Cumshewa Inlet ; the position assigned is obtained by adding 10', this being the correction found necessary b5' Vancouver for Dixon's position of Cape St. James, (Vancouver, Vol. IV., p. 2H7), QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 11 B <:•:•■;■!■ f' Island, being ignorant of Dixon's name, and apparently of the fact that there wore several large islands.* The North Went America, a schooner of about 40 tons, built by Moaros, at Nootka, in 1188, com- manded by Robert Funter, left Nootka shortly after the Washington, and had returned to that place from a trading voyage in the Queen Charlotte Islands on the 9th of June, 1789, when she was seized by the Spaniards. As in his instructions to Captain William Douglas, com- Douglas ami manding the Iphigenia, and also in charge of the If, W. America, ' ... Meares (Sept., 20, 1788,) specially directs that in the following summer the N. W. America should examine and trade along the east shore of the Queen Charlotte Islands (which he calls the Great Island). It is probable that the coast was visited early in 1788 by Funter. Douglas, in the Iphigenia, quitted Nootka on June 3rd of the same year, sailed northward between Queen Charlotte Islands and the mainland, and afterwards visited the north coast of Graham Island, naming the entrance to Masset Inlet M'Intire's Bay, the passage between North and Graham Islands, (now called Parry Passage;, Cox's Channel, and a cove in the south side of North Island Seal's Harbour. Douglas stayed about a week in Pariy Passage. His people are the first white men absolutely known to have landed on the Queen Charlotte Islands (p. 266), and in his narrative published by Meares, he gives some inter- esting particulars of his intercourse with the natives. On the 29th of June, 1791, Joseph Ingraham, in the brig -'^^<)/'6) ingraham.. of Boston, anchored in a harbour on the south-wcstf side of the Queen Charlotte Islands, which ho called Magee's Sound, after one of the owners of his vessel. About these islands and the coast of the conti- nent immediately adjacent to them he remained during the entire summer, and having collected a largo cargo of furs, sailed for Canton in the autumn. He appears to have named two places on the north coast Hancock's River J and Craft's Sound, now called Masset and Virago Sound. The Columbia, Captain Gray, made a second voyage fiom Boston in 1790-91, and was occupied trading on the east coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands in August and September, 1791. Gray fell in Avith the Hope in this vicinity on July 23rd. He wintered at Clayoquot, V^ancouver Island, and built a small vessel there, the Adventure. On August 22, 1791, Captain Etionne Marchand, in the French ship „ , , „ , (11 Marchandi Soude, which had visited Sitka Sound, made the entrance of Cloak •I- . I * It has boon stated that Oray first identified North Inland, und travorscd Party Paasnge. North Island is, however, shown with sonio accuracy on Dixon's niai), published in I1H8, and it is I'urther improbable that Gray reached this place, as Douglas, coming a few weeks after the time of his supposed vi^it. found the natives with plenty of furs to trade. t Greonhow. North West Coast of America, 1840, p. 120. t Perhaps, however, named after the Hancock, Captain Crowell, of Boston, in the fur trade in nn. SSSSB^B 12 B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Caamnno. Vancouver. Bay, between North and (Iralmm Islands. While iho vessel stood off and on, a boat party entered and explored the bay and adjacent Parry Passage (or Cox's Channel). The tii*st chart in detail published of any of the Queen Charlotte Islands harbors, was that prepareil by Mar- chand's party. It is said, however, that Ingram inserted plans of scvei-al harbours in a manuscript journal of his voyage. The SoUde subsequently visited the west coast of Graham Island for some distance to the southward, and then departed for Barclay Sound. In 1792, the Spanish corvette Aransasu, Lieutenant Jacinto Caamano, in company with the sloops Sutil and Mexlcana, sailed from San Bias to Nootka. Thence the two last-named vessels departed for the Strait of Juan de Fuca, while Caamano, sailing northward, explored various parts of the coast to the 5Gth parallel of latitude, including the north shore of the Queen Charlotte Islands, where he applied the name Isle de Langara to North Island, and those of Estrada and Mazaredo to Masset and Virago Sounds. Gray's mate, Ilaswell, in the Adventure, and afterwards Gray himself, in the Coalmbia, also returned to the Queen Charlotte Islands to trade in this year. In 1792, Captain George Vancouver, in His Majesty's sloop Discovery and armed tender Chatham, arrived on the west coast, and began the series of explorations and surveys which occupied parts of three years, and i-esulted in the correct delineation of the main features of the coast from the 30th parallel northward, and wost- Avard to Cook's Inlet and Kadiak. In July, 1793,. ho sailed northward between the Queen Charlotte Islands and the mainland, sighting them several times from a distance. In September, 1 7!>3, he was again in the vicinity of the Queen (charlotte Islands, and in coasting down the west shore, correctly outlined it. lie gives some observations on its character and bearings from ])oint to point, which have already been quoted. He named at this time Point North, Point Frederick (Frederic Island), Englefield Bay, Cape Henry, Point Buck, Cartwright's Sound and Point Hunter. In Augiut, 1794, Vancouver again passed southward along the west coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, but, owing to thick weather, scarcely saw them, and was not able to add to his notes of a former year. Numborof vcs- It would be uninteresting, even were it possible, to follow the various tride." '^° '""^ traders who must have visited the Queen Charlotte Islands after this time. It is more than probable, indeed, that many vessels resorted to the islands during the later years included in the above record, for Van- couver gives a list of no less than twenty-one which were engaged in the fur trade between the north-west coast of America and China in y^; QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS, 13 B I China in 1792. Little or nothing was added to our knowledge of the islands after those earlier voyages till they wore visited in recent years by sevei-al vessels of the Eoyal Navy, and sketch-plans made of some of the harbours. The fur trade declining rapidlj', attention appears to have completely withdrawn fi'om the islands until 1852, when the Hudson Bay Companj' dispatched a party of men in the brig Una, Captain Mitchell, to discover the locality from which several Wfcnvcry of ^ . uolu. specimens of gold had been brought by Indians. This was found to bo in Port Kuper, or Gold Harbour, on the west coast. The gold was found in a small irregular vein, which was soon proved to run out in every direction. The quantit}- of gold obtained by the expedition was considerable, but has been variously stated. The enterprise was soon abandoned, but the discoveiy for a time created quite a/urore — the first gold excitement of British Columbia — and the locality was visited by a number of miners, but with no further success. In July, 1859, Mr. Downie, with a party of twonty-seven, provisioned for three months. (Started for Port Kuper, or Gold Harbour, reaching it on August 6th, They discovei-ed a few specks of gold, but no paying vein. Mr. Downie appears to have been the first to discover the coal in Skidegate Inlet. Discovery of About this time a Captain Torrens also went with a party to prospect ^"^'* on the Queen Charlotte Islands, and narrowl}' escaped massacre by the Skidegate Indians. The Ilaidas have always borne a bad character, and have plundered coasters on one or more occasions, detaining a portion of the crew as slaves. Fear of the possible behaviour of the Indians has frequently deterred private individuals from visiting the islands. In 1852, H. M. S. Thetis visited Port Kuper, the sketch of thisDntosofSur- port being made by G. Moore, master. The sketch of the entrance to sk'^ches. Cumshewa Inlet is by Captain T. Sinclair of the Hudson Bay Company. In 1853, II. M.S. Virago visited Virago Sound, the entrance to Masset Inlet and Houston Stewart Channel. A sketch of Virago Sound was made by G. H. Inskip, master ; of Masset by H. N. Knox, mate ; of Houston Stewart Channel by Messrs. Inskip, Gordon, and Knox. The sketch of Parry Passage, though not directly attributed to the officers of the Virago, was also doubtless made at this time. H. M. S. Alert visited Virago Sound and Houston Stewart Channel in 1860, making some additions to the previous sketches of tliese places, and a line of soundings ofl:' the east coast of Graham Island, from near Cape Fife to Skidegate, and thence to Cumshewa. In 1862, H. M. S. Hecate visited Skincuttle, to prevent violence being done to the miners then engaged there, and made a line of soundings from that .place to Bonilla Island. In March, 1864, the same vessel visited Houston Stewart Channel, making some additions to the sketch. Skidegate Inlet was (in part) carefully surveyed by D. Pender, Master, E. N., 1866. 14 B QEOLOGIOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. t '' Visit of Mr. Kiohardaon. I- l-l 'Charts and Plans. ||i In 18Y2, Mr. James Ilichardson, of tlio Geological Sui'vey of Canada, at the request of gentlemen interested in opening a coal mine at Skidogate, npont nearly two weeks in that inlet. The account of his investigations is published in the Eoport of Progress for 1872-73, and the fossils collected by him form the subject of Mr. Whiteaves' memoir, already referred to, of a short report by Mr. Billings*, and a note by Principal Dawsonf . The best chart which I was able to obtain of the Queen Charlotte Islands is that of the Admiralty, bearing corrections up to 1862, and numbered 2430, on a scale of fifteen miles to one inch. This is said to be based chiefly on Vancouver's survey of 1792, corrected by a Eussian chart of 1849, and by Mr. Inskip in 1854. It is nothing more than a very rough sketch of the main outlines of the islands. A considerable portion of the east coast is represented on the Admiralty charts 1923 A. and 1923 B., published subsequent to December, 1874, but is little altered from the last. Of Skidogate Inlet there is a nearly com- plete and accurate plan (No. 48), on a scale of one mile to an inch. There is also a sheet of plans of harbors (No. 21G8), printed subsequent to 1864, giving moderately correct sketches of Houston Stewart Channel, Virago Sound, and the entrance to Masset Sound ; very imi^orfect ones of Cumshewa Inlet and Parry Passage. A small book of sailing directions for the islands, bj' G. Inskij), was also issued by the Admiralty in 1853, but has apparently been recalled or allowed to become out of print, as I have been unable to procure a copy. Some directions for navigators are, hoAvever, to be found in Imray's North Pacific Pilot, 1870, Vol. I., probably derived from the last mentioned work. In giving a description of the islands, the east co.ist is followed from the south northwards, and such notes as may be useful to vessels visiting the coast, whether the result of personal observations or derived from the Pilot, are inserted. Ill- Southern ex- tremity of tlie Islands. i! m ? m - General Description of the Islands. The southern extremity of the land of the Queen Charlotte Islands, is a chain of rocky islets and rocks called Isles Kerouart by La Perouse, which runs off from Cape St. James three and a half miles, in a south- south-easterly direction, corresponding with that of the mountainous axis of the group. Sunken rocks must exist still further from the land in the same line, as Vancouver notes that Gray, cf the Columbia, stated that his vessel struck and received some material damage, on a rock lying at a much greater distance (Vol. IV. p. 287.) Dixon gives a fairly 1$ • Report of Progress, 1872-73, p. 71. t Ibid, p. 66, ' of Canada, al mine at ount of hin 872-73, and es' memoir, I a note by ;!■ in Charlotte D 1862, and lis is said to y a Eusnian J more than lonsiderablo alt}'' charts 1874, but Ih nearly com- to an inch. Bubsequent )n Stewart ound ; very . small book 10 issued by r allowed to opy. Some I ray' 8 North t mentioned ; is followed 111 to vessels s or derived .'jwv; )tte Islands, La Perouse, , in a south- nountainous om the land mbia, stated B, on a rock ;ive8 a fairly V 'i. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CA Klat -kv\'un Pi '£ntroiw« I. Lat. 51' 51' N. Drawn by Messrs. Bovky & Dawson. SKETCHES OF HARBOURS, GlUEEN CHAR SCAL.E: 2 Nautical miles to 1 i LL SURVEY OF CANADA. i, QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS, 1878. THt BURUBO LITHOGRAPHIC CO MONTRWL : Nautical miles to 1 inch. l> i ft • A Vo, Captain ( t. J Indit Drawn by Messrs. Bovey & Dawson. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 15 n 4icciirato viow of tl»o rocks.* As soon by niysolf at a distance of some igics Kennmrt. miles to the north-oast, thoy appear to form throo groups, tlio first lying close to ("ape St. Jamos, consisting of two largo rocks, the second of one largo and sevoml Hmallor rocks, and the third and furthest soutiiward, of two or tiii'oe rocks of some size and a nunibor ol' lessor ones. Those little islets aro very reniarkalile in a[>pearance, standing boldly up with rounded tops and vertical dill's on all sides. Even the snialier rocks have the same pillm--like form, so frof|uently found where a rocky coast is ex])osod to the full sweep of a great ocean. They serve as secure brooding places for innumei-ablG gulls, puffins and other sea- birds. The southern point of Cape St. James is a vertical cliff about oqual in height to the larger of the islands lying off it. The land gradually rises northward, till about Houston Stewart Channel it has in many j)lacesaprobai)lc elevation of 2000 foot. Capo St. James appears to be the southern extremity of an island about one mile in diameter, which has heretofore been drawn as forming a part of Prevost Island. The narrow channel which separates it from the latter runs west-south- westward. The oast coast of this and Prevost Island to -East Pointf is East o.mpt Pro- hold, and frequently formed by a cliff facing the sea. This part of'"'' ^'''""'" Prevost Island is indented by two bays or inlets, the southern apparently inconsiderable, the northern probably three or four miles in depth. From East Point the shore runs north-westward sevoji and a quarter jio,,^,,^ g.^,,. miles to Moor ■ Head, at the south-eiist entrance of Houston Stewart *'^'*^''^'*""®'- Channel. The shore is much broken, being penetrated by several inlets which run back among the high hills. Several small islands lie off it, of which one is hold, densely tree-chid, and has a height of about 150 feci. Houston Stewai't Channel runs', est two and a half miles, and then turning ahruj)tly, south-west throo miles. From the knee thus formed Koso Harbour, an inlet nearly three miles long, runs north- ward. Like the main channel, it has a width of about three-quarters of a mile. Its western side, especially to the north, is bordered by high hills, while to the north-east it is separated by a narrow nock of low wooded land from South Cove of Carpenter Bay. A stream which has been called Sodmond Hi ver on the chart, enters at its head from the west. At the west entrance to Houston Stewart Channel lies Anthony Island, on which the Indian village generally known as Mnstints is situated, Ninstints. and a number of smaller islets. No villages exist in other parts of the inlet. Those mai'kod on the chart have boon temporaiy houses, most of which have now disappeared. In the neighborhood of Houston Stewart Channel the hills or mountains every where rise steeply from • A Voyage Round tho World, but raoro particularly to the North-west Coast of America, by Captain Ueorgo Dixon. London, 1789, p. 214. t Names printed in iinlicf in this portion of the report are these given by myself, or in use by L i Indians, but which have not previously been published. " 1 i'>:';if' « ■ ■*'• n *' ' \- .. f< .-•■ " ( 1 i\ ,i. *. 16 B OEOLoaiCAL SURVEY OV CANADA. : 'I Ziologiniil I'ucundity. Soundings and shoali the shore, and there is no ai'ablc land, scarcely indeed any soil properly BO called. The trees, from the exposed position of this part of the islands are rather stunted, and show much dead wood. The}' grasp the almost naked rocks. A strong tide runs through the channel, the flood setting eastward from the Pacific, while the ebb flows in the opposite direction. This is very favourable to the existence of certain forms of marine life, and the rocks are alive with sea-urchins, star-fish, acorn- shells, mussels, chitons, holothurians, &c. The bottom was found on dredging to consist of gravel and shelly sand, except in the sheltered bays, where it is mud. At about ft)ur miles from the eastern entrance to Houston Stewart Channel the depth is said to be DO fathoms, which gradually shoals to 20 fathoms within a mile of it. The soundings then become very irre- gular, ranging from 30 to 7 fathoms. In the channel the depth varies from 11 to 20 fathoms. Within the entrance jioint on the north side there is a snug bay bordered by a sandy beach. There is also good anchorage for a small craft east of Ellen Island of the chart. Care must be exercised in sailing up the channel, as there are several rocks which contract the available width. Kose Harbour is secure and capa- cious, with anchorage at fromO to 15 fathoms, but with kelp and shoal water along its easteVn shore. The basin at its head is full of little islands and rocks, and should not be entered. Imray gives the follow- ing directions for entering Houston Stewart Channel from the eastward. When abreast Cape St. James, the vessel should close the land to IJ miles, and coast along till the entrance opens out. After passing a convenient distance southward of the largest or outer island (Anthony Island), ort' the southern end of which an extensive ledge of rocks extends south-westward, the channel will show itself. A bare flat rock about 50 feet high, which should bo kept on the jiort hand, is a good guide. Off" the point, between the eastentrance of Houston Stewart Channel and Carpenter Buy, to the north, are the North and South Danger Eocks. These are low rocky islets, but are said to be surrounded by sunken rocks. In entering Houston Stewart Channel from the north- ward they should be given u wide berth. The point above mentioned is low and densely wooded. At a little cove on its noj-th sine, protected by rocks and full of kelp, is an Indian house, which appears to be Carpenter Buy. occupied at some seasons. Carpenter Bay, between Iron Point on its north-western and Islet Point on its south-eastern side, is a little over two miles wide, and runs westward about five miles. On its south side are two small bays, the western of which has already been men- tioned under the name of South Cove, as approaching near to the head of Eose Harbour. In its head is good anchorage for a small schoonei' Danger Rocks. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 11 B ill from 6 to 10 fathoms. It is not quite land locked, but sheltered from the only direction otherwise exposed by a little rocky reef which runs out from its east side. The bay ends westward in a narrow arm, which receives two streams of some size. It resembles the head of Rose Har- bour in being filled with little rocky islands and rocks, and though well sheltered would be unsafe even for small craft. The general aspect of this inlet and the country suiTOunding it is like that of Houston Stewart Channel. Thickly wooded mountains rise everywhere from the water's edge to heights frequently exceeding 1000, but rarely if evermore than 2000 feet. The shore is generally rocky, with deep water off it, and beaches are infrequent and not extensive. The timber being of small stature and gnarled is not of any great prospective value, and agricul- tural land does not exist. There were many seals here at the time of Seals, our visit (June 17th), playing in the water or lying on the rocks. Some mothers carried their young on their backs, the two heads coming up together in a most amusing manner. CoUison Bay, lying between the last and Skincuttle Inlet, is about a Collison Bay. mile and three-quarters wide, with a probable depth of two miles. It runs up into a nan-ow arm, which was not examined. Several sniall islands and rocks lie in its mouth, and it does not appear to bo service- able as a harbour. Skincuttle Inlet is five and a half miles deep, with a width between Skincuttle its entrance points of four miles. A number of smaller inlets and coves open from it. The north side of the inlet is formed by Burnaby Island, and from the north-west angle Burnaby Strait runs north- ward to Juan Perez Sound, and separates Burnaby Island from the east shore of Moresby Island. In 1863-64, Skincuttle Inlet was the scene of the exploits of a certain Mr. Francis Poole, calling himself a civil and mining engineer. He subsequently published a volume called " Queen Charlotte Islands,"* which is chiefly remarkable for the exaggerated character of the accounts it contains. Mr. Poole gives a rough sketch map of Skincuttle, on which ho has named most of the features. I have retained his names in so far as I have been able to recognize the localities to whit-n they are intended to apply. The shores of Skincuttle Inlet resemble those of other parts of the islands already described, being in general bold, and rising at once from the water's edge either to low hil' ' or mountains of some height. The inlet appears to be continued westward by low land, but owing to the fhct that the mountains were perpetually covei-ed with mist during our stay in this place, it is possible that there are hills of some height at a little distance from the shore. Near the north-western angle of 1^^^ laiet. ^ II '1% i. London, 1872. 18 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Tim'.sr. Lituriant vosetation. Islands. Nil Harriet Har- bour. the inlet the mountains rise steeplj^ to a height of 3000 feot or more, being the highest yet met with in jDroceeding northward. The surface of the country is forest-clad, but as before noticed many of the trees are dead at the tops. When sheltered flat land occurs, however, they are well grown and healthy looking. The Spruce (Abies Menziesii), Hemlock (Abies Mertensiana) and Cedar (Thuja glgantea) are the most abundant, the latter chiefly near the shore. Alders (Alnus Oregona) and Crab-apples (Pyrtis rivularis) form small groves near the beach where the land is low. In the narrower passages where no heavy seas can enter, the trees seem almost to root in the beach, and their branches hang down so as even to dip into the water at high tide. Where a narrow beach occurs in these sheltered localities, vividly green grass spreads down till it meets the yellow tangle which grows up as far as the tide ever reaches. Owing to the dampness of the climate, a few days exposure at neap tides does not seem to injure the sea-weed. Ferns also grow abundantly on the trunks and even on the boughs of the trees, . both living and dead, and green moss forms great club-like masses on projecting branches. Large trunks, overthrown and dead, become at once perfect gardens of moss young trees and bushes, tliough lying high above the ground supported on piles of yet earlier windfall. Similar features characterize the forest bordering the shores elsewhere throughout the whole southern portion of the Queen Charlotte Islands, and — it is unnecessary to add — render locomotion in any other way than by boats or canoes along the shore nearly impossible. The entrance to Skincuttle Inlet is south of a chain of islands which may be called the Copper Islands, and lie east-north-east and west-south- west. It is a mile and a half wide, but should be used with caution, as there is reason to believe that a rock, sometimes bare, lies in it. The passage to the north of the Copper Islands is contracted, and with one or more rocks in its narrowest part. The first opening on the south side of the inlet, and best anchorage, is Harriet Harbour of Poole, of which a careful survey, with soundings, has been made. It is two miles east of the south entrance point of Skincuttle Inlet, and runs southward one mile. It should bo entered by the channel on the west side of Harriet Island, which lies at its mouth. A vessel should be kept nearer the west side of the channel, (as several little rocks covered at high water lie along Harriet Island) and run some distance beyond the inner end of the island before bringing too, to avoid the shoal bank which lies off its point. The depth is about 8 fathoms, with good holding ground, and the harbour is well sheltered from most directions, though subject to heavy puft's from the valleys at its head when a southerly gale is blowing. A mile and a half west of Harriet Harbour is Huston Bay of Poole QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 19 B This is a wide inlot which runs southward about four miles, and then turns to the west, in which direction its extremity was not visited. ' High mountains rise from the shore near its head. At the western end of Sltincuttle Inlet are three indentations of the coast, of which the southern appears to be George Harbour of Poole. The northern, lying at the entrance of Euruaby Sirait, may be called Tangle Cove. It is a well sheltered anchorage for a small schooner, but a shoal, the extent of which is unknown, lies off its mouth. The entrance is between a small island which lies at its south side and two T>oiomite ^ Narrows. other little islets to the north. In it lies a rock which uncovers at low water. The mountains at the head of Tangle Cove are steep, and probably reach 3000 feet in height. Part of their upper slopes are bare of trees, but apparently covered with peaty moss, where not com- posed of rock. Two and a half miles northward of Burnaby Strait is Dolomite Narrows. The strait is here not more than a quarter of a mile wide, and the channel is crooked, obstructed by rocks, and shoal, having from six to eight feet onl}^ of water at low tide. The curx-ent is not strong, however, and our schooner passed safel}' through, though it is not to be recommended as a passage for any craft larger than a boat or canoe. All parts of Burnaby Strait must, indeed, be navigated with great caution, as there are many rocks, and a large proportion of them are covered at high water. Just south of Dolomite Narrows, from the west side of the strait, opens Baij Harbour, expanding within to a basin nearly a mile in diameter. On the south shore of Burnaby Island, constituting the north side of Skincuttle Harbour, is a bay, with several small islands in front, which may be a good harbour, but was not examined. Further east, in the vicinity of the abandoned copper mine, Blue Jay and Kingftshei- Harbours of Poole, are mere rocky coves, scarcely commodious for boats. Granite Point, on the north side of the entrance to Skincuttle, is a Granite Point, lather remarkable whitish crag, separated by a nan-ow neck of low land from the main shore. The east side of Burnaby Island from this place to Scudder Point — a distance of about five miles — was not examined. There is, however, a deep ba}- to the north of Granite Point, with a high island lying in its mouth. The Bollfus Islands form a chain about two miles long, lying east and west in the centre of Skincuttle Inlet. They are five in number, with many small rocks and reefs. The land is low, and on the western and largest of the islands the soil appears to be good, though now covered with dense forest. Burnaby Strait is nine miles in length, running northward six and a Burnaby Strait, half nulcs beyond Dolomite Narrows, and gaining evenlualh' an average width of a mile and a quarter. Nearly abreast Dolomite Narrows on Burnaby Island arc two conspicuous mountains — The 2\cins — estimated E ■< V'V:'^ ; ,!■ ■i •> jjn> trj-ft >f I. I i IHMMMIiaiHIEiJn 20 B QEOLOQICAL SURVEY OP CANADA, i 1 1 > 9 • ■1 If 111 Barnaby strait. Jit 1500 feot in height. Ono and a half miles north of the Narrows, Island Bay, two miles dee]), runs westward. It is named from a num- ber of iiiall islands — about seventeen — which it contains, and may probably bo too rocky for a safe harbour. Four miles north of the Narrows, a passage opens westwai'd between the north shore of Burnaby Island and Huxley Island. On the west side of the northern entrance to Burnaby Strait is Skaat Harbour. This is a bay two and three-qnarter miles wide, with a total depth of about three miles. In its mouth lies one large island — Wanderer Island — and several smaller ones. The harbour turns into a narrow inlet in its upper part, which was not visited, and terminates among high mountains forming a por- tion of the axial chain of the islands. Skaat Harbour was not sounded or carefully examined, but from the character of its shores wo\ild probably afford good anchorage, especially behind Wanderer Island, and if so, it is the best for large vessels in this vicinity. It lies near the seaward opening of Juan Perez Sound, All Alone Stone and Monument Rock forming good entrance marks to Bcirnaby Strait. The harbour will probably bo found deepest on the Wanderer Island side, as there is an extensive field of kelp off the opposite shore. The entrance to Skaat Harbour on the southern side of Wanderer Island is very narrow. At the angle formed between it and the shore of Burnaby Strait are two small cov^es affording anchorage for a schooner, but with wide tide- flats at their heads, which a short distance below low-water mark fall away very rapidly into deep water. The eastern point of Wanderer Island, in line with that of Centre Island, lemls over Ijijnestone Rock, a mile to the southwai'd of the latter. This is a dangerous reef, bare only at low water, but not extensive, though a second rock, dry at low water only, lies a short distance south-east of it. Burnaby Island The north shore of Burnaby Island, five and three-quarter miles in length, lies east-north-east and west-south-west, and is nearly straight on the whole, though with a few shallow bays, ono of which has been called Section Cove, and is again referred to in this report. Alder Island lies about the centre of this stretch of coast. It is about half a mile in diameter, nearly flat, and there is probably a good anchorage be- hind it, which should, however, be approache,:.1.J '■■Kb''' iiii •'■■iJ M I; ■■■■ i.^.i ■■T' - 1§ i I': Fine timber. Dana and Sel- wyn Inletf. Mil ■Rock-fish Ilurbour. \i 26 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. rounded hills of a nearly uniform hcighth of about 800 feet. They are not without some good gravelly beaches, though generally rocky. In the inlets and bays just described, in the vicinity of Lyoll Island, there is a considerable quantity of fine timber, trees of great stature growing in all moderately level and sheltered places. The most abund- ant tree hero, as elsewhere on the islands is Abies Meusiesii. The ' yel- low cedar,' Cupressus Niitkatensis, occurs ratlicr sparingly towai'd the heads of the inlets. The Laskeek or Klue Indian village, is situated on the eastern extremity of Tan-oo Island. It is one of the most populous still remaining in the Queen Charlotte Islands. The two northern inlets from Laskeek Bay may be called Dana and Selwyn Inlets. In the mouth of Dana Inlet is a small, high, rocky island, of rounded form, which may be called Helmet Island. A second small island is near it, and from most points of view the channel be- tween the two is not seen. Care must bo taken to avoid mistaking this island for P'lowor-pot Island, in the mouth of Logan Inlet. Dana Inlet is six and a half miles long, and runs nearly duo westward, with bold shores. At its extremity it turns northward, communicating by a narrow but apparently deep passage with Selwyn Inlet, and thus cut- ting off Tal-un-kxoan Island, seven miles in lengih. The hills on this island are rounded and regular in form, and rise to elevations of from 800 to 900 feet. Selwyn Inlet runs westward, parallel to the last, for about seven miles, and then turning north-westward, runs for a like distance in that direction, giving off three arms, one of which forms at high-water a passage for canoes into the upper part of Cumshewa Inlet, and separates Louise Island from the main shore. A small island lies off the noi-th entrance point, with a low rock off it. The remainder of the east-and-west reach of the inlet appears to be free from obstruc- tions, with the exception of a small rock near the south shore. After giving the islets at the north entrance point a wide berth, a vessel should keep the north shore on board, til lin five miles the entrance of Rock-fish Harbour is reached. This harbour is formed by a book- shaped projection of low land, at the angle of Selwyn Inlet. It runs in westward for about a mile and a half, with a width of about half a mile, and an average dc])th of about fifteen fathoms. It is a secure and well- sheltered anchorage, more easily entered than Cumshewa Harbour. The west branch of Selwyn Inlet was estimated to run four miles west- south westward, and cannot be more than nine or ten miles from the upper arms of Mitchell or Gold Harbour, of the west coast. A low valley was observed to run some distance westward from the head of this branch. Of the two remaining arms of Selwyn Inlet, one appears to end blindly in about two miles, the second running north-north-east- ward, forms the communication with Cumshewa Inlet already alludetl QUKEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 27 B Thpiso upper unns of the inlet uio environed by high and rugged il^M, of which, however, owing to persistently wet weather, no to. mouni good ^^iw vvas obtained. The passage to Cumshewa is narrow ami walled in at both sides by mountains which rise very steeply from it. The land on Louise Island to the north of Eock-fish Harbour is also very high and bold. Like those before described, the shores of this inlet are densely wooded. The positions of Reef Island and the Loio Fslands in Laskeek Bay have not been lixod with any accuracy, and they are merely sketched on the map. The first-named is steep along the water's edge, and a reef runs about half a mile southward from it. From the mouth of Solwyn Iidet, the coast runs north-eastward for Coast between, seven miles, with scverjil small bays, fully open to the sea, and goner- Cumshewa. ally rocky. About mid- way a remarkable limestone point, named Point Vertical, from the attitude of the beds, pi'ojects. It is connected with the main shore by a narrow spit, on which stands an Indian house. North of it are two small islands, — Limestone Islands, — behind which the tide, running southward along the coast, forms a race at ebb. SIcedans Bay is strewn with suidcen rocks and fully open, and nhould on no account be entered by vessels. A large stream enters its head, which can be seen at some distance inland forming a high waterfall, and which, according to the Iruirtiir , flows out of a lake of some size high among the mountains. The Skedans village forms a semi-circle round skedans village the head of a small bay or cove — very rocky — which indents the south side of a narrow isthmus, connecting two remarkable nipple-shaped hills with the main shore. This peninsula is situated at the south en- trance point to Cumshewa Inlet, and between it and the Skedans Islands lying otf, the tide forms a race. The Skedans Islands form a mark in entering Cumshewa Iidet from the south, but are only sketched on the map. They are low and tree-dail. Cumshewa Harbour, of the Admiralty chart, is shown as about five cumshewa miles in depth. This opening is in reality, howevei-, a long inlet, run- ning westward fiftoon miles, and sending a prolongation southward to Selwyn Inlet. It ditl'ers in its somewhat greater width, and the low cliaracter of the land on its northern shore from the inlets to the south, and in fact marks the junction, on the east coast of the island, of the moutitain I'egion and flat country underlain by the comparatively un- disturbed Cretaceous rocks. There is more beach along the shores than in the southern inlets, and wide tide-flats, indicating shoaler water, which is not onl}' found in the inlet iti-elf, but now extends far off the coast. The shores are quite bold, however, in some places toward the head of the inlet, and the water probably deep. The mountains south of the extremity of the inlet and on Louise Island are high and carry Inlet. If; '1 " t Entrance to Cumshowa Inlot. 28 B OBOLOalOAL SURVEy OF CANADA. Hiiow ill ubuiidatico, which doubtlo.sH hwts ull Hiimmor. ThcHO appear about as high hh any yot Heon, from which it is ovidont that tJUi axial range docs not gradually die away northward, but is iiorc i iiijKlj" in- terrupted. North of the extremity of the inlet, Home mile^ bacK from the Hhoro, rounded hills estimated at about 1000 feot are seen. Outside the mouth of Cumshewa Inlet, north of the Skedans Islands, the depth is pretty uniform at about twenty fathoms, with a shelly and gravelly bottom. An extensive reef lies nearly a mile off the northern entrance point of the inlot, in a south-easterly bearing, with a second, seen only at low-water, nearly half a mile further out in the same di- rection. A vessel coming from the north should, therefore, keep well oif the shore till the Cumshewa rocks ui'c passed, and then stand in to tiie entrance in a north-westerly course. Cumshewa Island, of the chai't, is a small barren rock. Kiii-yui Island, just within the north en- trance point, on the north side of the inlot, bristles with doail trees, and can be recognized easily. About a mi)'^ further in is the narrow channel by which the inlet must be entered. This is about half a mile wide, lying between the north shore of the inlet, and northern edge of a veiy extensive shoal which runs out from the south shore, with a broadly triangular form. When the southern ])oint of the peninsula ■\vhich projects from the north shore of Cumshewa Inlet, bears N. (J5° 30' (S. 88° W. Mag.), the northern edge of the wide shoal is just cleared. The least depth in the channel is, according to the Admiralty sketch (No. 2168), seven to eight fathoms, but as the sketch is otherwise incor- rect, too much confidence should not bo placed in this measurement. A few patches of the shoal dry at low title, but the greater part of its extent is indicated onl}' by the kelp which grows thickly on it during the summer. McKay's Cove. "Within Iho narrows, on the nortli shore, is a cove, whei-o a small house for the purpose of trade with the natives was built some yeai-s ago, but is now abandoned. The tide-flats are wide, but off them a small schooner may find a pretty secure anchorage, though the tide — \vhich runs strongly in the mouth of this inlet — sweeps round the cove. Cumshewa Indian village is situated on the north side of the inlet, the houses being arranged along the shore of a bay which faces south- eastward. A small rocky island which may be called Village Island, lies off it, and is connected with the main shore at low-tide. The ruins of an abandoned village exist on the outer point near Cum- shewa Island, but this one has probably never been of great im- poi'tance. On the sketch of Cumshewa, published by the Admiralty, an an- chorage with eleven and twelve fathoms of water is shown behind the Cumshewa village. Anchorage. QUEEN CIIARI-OTTE ISLANDS. 20 n Pt'iiinHiiIn. This is a mistaUo, ft.s the bay thoro is quite shnllow. TIio iiost anclionigc for a larj^o vcskoI is probably to l)o found on tlio soutii side, nearly opposite tho Peninsula, and abreast a stretch of low land, at tho entrance of a largo stream. From tho entrance to Cumshewa Inlet, tho coast runs north-north- Coont between westward to Spit Point, at the south side of Skidogato Inlet, a di.stancoBkiT„gftre! """' of sixteen miles. It is indented by two considerable bays, the northern of which may bo called Copper Bay, from the fact that some work lias been done hero at ono time in examining a deposit of copper ore. Tho land is low, and voiy different in appoaranco_,from that of tho coast southward. In a few places it rises at the shore to a height of about 200 foot, and generally attains this elevation at some distance inland. Tho projecting points are generally low and flat, formed of gravel de- posits, elsewhere referred to as i)robably indicating a slight elevation of tho land. In correspondence with tho change in tho character of tho land, the beach becomes flat, and shoal water extends far otl" shore. Near Cumshewa tho beaches aro almost entirely composed of boulders, but show more gravel and sand toward Skidogato, though plentifully strewn with erratics, especially near tho projecting points. The sur- face of the country is densely wooded with trees of large size. Spit Point is low, and composed of sand dejiosits, which extending north- ward form the bar or shoal which stretches across the entrance to Skidogato Inlet. Tho country on the north side of tho entrance to Skidogato is also Entrance tM :.;"■':- S "*■■■■ i - ^ 32 B QLOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Charncter of the country. t ' '■ i «■ West, entrance sheltered anchoragc. Two miles west of Log Point, the south-western of Channel. j^j.^^j^p^ of the channel runs off, going first southward for about a mile. At this point it is blocked by the delta of a brook of some size, which enters from the south-east. A bank has been formed here, which dries for a width of at least a quarter of a mile at low water, and even at high tide caimot have more than four feet of water on it. This passage is therefore only adapted for canoes or boats, and is used by the Indians when travelling between Skidegatc and Port Kupor. A vessel entering the north arm of Skidegate Channel from the west might probably find a secure anchorage in the entrance to the south-west arm just mentioned. The central portion of Skidegate Channel, though narrow, occupies the middle of a valley of some width, and is bordered generally on both sides by low wooded land, sloping gradually up to the foot of the mountains, which rise to elevations between 1000 and 1500 feet. This is also the case with the arm which projects northward, and a trans- vei'se low valley connects this with that occupied by the Long Arm. Beyond Log Point the chaimel assumes the general character of the inlets of the west coast. The shores become steep and rocky, with little or no beach. The trees covering the hills become scrubby in appearance, and are mingled with much dead wood. Scarcely any soil clothes the slopes, and entensive patches of bare rock become evident among the foliage. The higher mountains are from 1500 to 2000 feet in height. Their summits are frequently bare, and show the characteristically green tint due to a sphagneoua covering of moss, and small bushes, as distinguished from the usual sombre hue of the conifers. The 'yellow cedar' (Cupressus Mitkatensis) becomes abundant towai-d the west coast, but is generally of no great size. The distance from Lawn Hill at the entrance to Skidegate, to Rose Point is forty-six miles. The coast in some respects resembles that between Cumshewa and Skidegate, and is straight and open, with no harbour, and scarcely even a creek or protected cove for canoes or boats for long distances. The beach is gravelly, and sometimes coarsely stony, to the Tl-ell River. Beyond this it becomes sandy, and though not without some gravel, continues to hold this character to Rose Point. Lawn Hill is evidently formed by an outcrop of Tertiary volcanic rocks elsewhere described. For many miles northward, banks of clays and sands are found along the shore, and for about seventeen miles northward from the Tl-ell River these frequently rise into cliffs fifty to one hundred feet in height. These are generally wearing away under the action of the waves, and trees and stumps may i)e noticed in various stages of descent to the beach. In some places dense woods of fine upright clear trees are thus exposed in section, and there must be Skidegate to Rose Point. QUKEN CHAULOTTE ISLANDS, 33 B la«oon8. much fiiio spruce timber on the wide low country which stretches bade from the shore toward Masset Inlet. Very fre({uently the timber seen on the immediate verge of the cliffs and along the shore is of an inferior quality, owing to its exposed jwsitioii. The soil where shown goii. in the clitfs is generally quite sandy, or peaty in hollow places in which water has collected. Sand hills, or elevations resembling such, are seen in some places in section in the cliffs, and it is likely that further inland where these are not found the soil has abetter character, though the fact that the upper layers of the di-ift deposits are of sand and gravel renders it probable that it is generally light. North of the range of c'iffs the shore is almost everywhere bordered Sand hills and by sand hills, which are covered with coarse grass, beach-jjea and other similar plants, and would afford fine grazing for cattle. Behind these are woods, in some places burnt and the trees generally under- sized and scrubby. This part of the coast is also characterized by lagoons, and is evidently making, by the banking up of the sand under the action of the sea. The largest of the lagoons opens at Cape Fife of the chart, running southward some miles, and according to the Indians communicating with a second further inland. The mouth of this forms a safe harbour for boats or canoes at high tide, but is nearly dry at low water. The Tl-ell River just alluded to reaches the sea ten and a half miles Tl-ellRirtr. north of Boulder Point, at the entrance to Skidcgate. It is a stream of Nome size. For about three miles above its mouth it runs nearly parallel to the shore, about half a mile back, and separated by a low swampy strip of land of that breadth only from the sea. This land is of comparatively modern formation, being composed of sand and gravel banked up by the action of the waves. It is partly open and in j>art covered with spruce trees of no great size. A ruined Indian house, liinedhoufe. which must have been very largo, stands about three miles south of ihv mouth of the river, and near this the Indians say it formerly (lcl>ouched. This is probably correct, though it can scarcely have been during the existence of the building of which traces are now seen. The water of this river is of a dark cott'ee or amber colour, and a similar tint distinguishes that of all streams of the northern low part of the islands. In the bay to the north of Ca])e Ball an Indian village, ofDeserted which some of the houses aro still standing, was fv.rmei-Iy situated.^' '^'' Tiie I ndians i-epoi-t that at very low tides patches of hard clay appear a long way otl^" Capo Ball. They relate further that many years ago a vessel went ashore on these shoals, and got otf only by throwing over- lioard many things, of which one was a brass cannon. On some ])arts(iold. of the shore near Cape Fife magnetic iron sand is abundant, and in this numerous 'colours' of gold can easily be found. 3 ■I ,1 34 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Rose Point Dangerous banks. Rose Point to Masset. Rose Point was so named by Douglas in 1788, but is known to the Haidas as Nai-koon, or long nose. It is a j-emarkable promontory, dependant apparently on no geological ieature, but caused merely by the meeting of the currents and waves from the southward and west- ward round the corner of the island. The inner part of Eose Point, near Cape Fife, does not dift'er from the low wooded coast to the south, though according to Indian accounts there are inland a great number of lakes and swamps, which may probably be lagoons like those just referred to, but have become completely land-locked and hold fresh water. Further out, where the point is narrower and more exposed, it is clothed with small stunted woods, which in turn give place to I'olling grass-covered sand-hills. Beyond this the narrow gravelly point is covered above high-water mark with heaps of drifting sand, and great quantities of bleached timber, logs and stumps piled promis- cuously together. The apex of the point is a narrow steep sided gravelly bank, which runs out for a long distance at low water. Two small vessels belonging to the Hudson Bay Company have been lost on this point, which being so low is very dangerous in dark or thick weather, and, in the absence of a survey of the extension of the banks oif it, should be given a wide bei'th. From Eose Point to Masset the minor indentations of the shore are so slight that it may be described as forming one grand croscentic bay twenty-one miles in width. With the exception of a few small rocky points the beach is smooth and regular, and almost altogether composed of sand, though in some places coarse gravel occurs, and in its steej) slope above the ordinary high-water mark, evidences the action at some times of a very heavy sea. Low sand-hills generally form a border to the woods, which densely cover the land, and grow in dark groves, with comparatively little underbush in many places, but generally rather scrubby. The trees are chieflj' Abies Menziesii. The water is shoal far off the shore, especially on approaching Masset, where kelj) forms wide fields at a great distance from the beach. Eight miles from Eose Point is the Hi-ellen River, a stream of some size, which is frequented by great numbers of salmon in the autumn. Its * mouth forms a good boat harbour. On its east bank are the ruins of an Indian village, on its west Tow Hill, an eminence remarkable in this low country, faces ihe sea with a cliff composed of columnar volcanic- rocks of Tertiary age. A mile and a half west of the lli-ellen Eiver are several rude houses, inhabited by the Masset Indians during !>. Fishing village, portion of the summer while they are engaged in curing halibut and making dog-fish oil. It is uncertain whether Tow Hill or a broad low elevation Avhich lies a short distance inland near Cape Fife is the Nagdon (evidently a corruption of Nai-koon) Hill of the chart. From Salmon river. QDFEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 35 B a distance of ten or fifteen miles northward the two appear to lie together in the axis of Eose Point. The north shore of Graham Island near Masset is ffenerally low, Approaches to Masset with shoal water etctending far off, though at a distance of about twelve miles from shore, in Dixon Entrance the depth is about 100 fathoms. At Masset, instead of the wide open bays generally met with, wo find a funnel-shaped entrance leadin;- to the narrow waters of Masset Sound. Masset requires to be approached with great caution by vessels, as, according to the sketch published by the Admiralty, a bar with only about 3 fathoms of water stretches across between the outer points. On the map accompanying this report the bar is ' indicated according to the sketch referred to, which may be approxi- mately correct only. Inside the bar the depth increases to 9 and 11 fathoms, and anchorage in 10 fathoms is found in a bay on the east side, opposite the chief Indian village. The strength of the tide, how- ever, renders this a poor stopping place. Owing to the great expansion of the upper part of Masset Inlet, the current continues to run up the sound, opposite Masset, for about two and a half hours after the water is falling by the shore, while the ebb runs out for about three hours after the tide has begun to rise on the beach. The village just mentioned is called Ut-te-ivas, and here is situated a Mission station. Hudson Bay post — the only one on the Islands — and a station of the Church Missionary Society, in charge at the time of our visit, in August, 1878, of Eev. Mr. Colli'^on. The station has now been estab- lished for two years. About a mile south of this place, also on the east shore, is a second village, and on the opposite side a third. Though all these are now decaying and with comparatively few inhabitants, Masset must at one time have been a very populous place. The land in the vicinity of Masset is all low, no hills being visible. Country about It is generally densely timbered with fine spruce trees, but there are '^^^^' reports of ' prairies ' in the interior, which may not improbably be swamps. Three miles up the sound a lagoon or arm runs otf on the east side. At this place the land pretty suddenly attains an elevation of 100 feet or more, spreading back in a flat or gently undulating plain at this level. Where seen in the banks this is formed of drift deposits. Clays and gravels below, hard-bedded sands above. Nearly opposite this place, on the west side is Maast Island, which appeal's to have given its name to the entire inlet. It lies across a bay, which seems at first sight to offer better anchorage than that already i*eferred to. The island is, however, low and sandy, and a great part of the bay or passage behind it is dry at low water. The length of Masset Sound Masset Sound, from its seaward entrance to the point at which it expands widely is nineteen miles. It is about a mile in average width, and though *■ fsl ... ' . '% '<■■.■ - £i W'^ » ' I V ' -t-'''- 1 " *' MMMMMI HMN 36 B Oreat expan- sion. Tsoo-skatli. M!# 'i'^:< ,:?*^ GKOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. slightly tortuous, preserves nearly the parallelism of its sides. The depth, ascertained in a few places, varies from 10 to 12 fathoms. A number of little streams enter at the sides, most of which, according to Indian reports, have their sources in small lakes. Four and a half miles from the southern or inner end of the sound, where its ti-end is nearly south-west and north-east, a narrow passage runs off nearly due southward, joining the expanded portion of Masset Inlet, and form- ing a large island, the general altitude of which is somewhat less than that of most of the surrounding country. This passage is partly dry at low water, but is occasionally used by the Indians in canoes. At its southern end, the narrow part of the inlet — which has been called the sound — expands suddenly to a great sheet of inland water, which with an extreme east and west length of seventeen miles, has a breadth where widest of five and a half miles. This, to the northward and eastward is bounded by continuous low wooded land, probably based throughout on drift deposits like those seen in Masset Sound and on the east coast of the island ; to the west and south by hills, rising to mountains in tl distance. Even these, howevoi", are comparatively rounded in form, and probably never exceed 1500 feet in height. The northern and southern shores are of even contour, and often bordered by wide shoals covei-ed with bouldei-s. The western half of the expansion is studded with islands, and it is rather irregular in outline, forming four large bays or inlets with intervening mountainous points. The shores are here steep, with narrow bouldory beaches sloping down at once into deep water. About the heads of the inlets, and near the mouths of streams only, are small areas of flat ground found. Of these inlets that which roaches furthest southward is called by the Indians Tin-in-oiv-e. On the south side of this great expansion, five miles from its eastern extremity, is a narrow passage, the mouth of which is partly blocked by islands, but which leads into a second great expansion called by the Indians Tsoo-skatli, or ' the belly of the rapid.' The largest of the island.'i in this passage is called Slip-a-ti-a. A small one to the cast of it (and connected with it at low tide) Chltz. A third, to the south of the first and in the middle/)f the passage, Hloiit. Kelp grows abundantly in the channels on both sides of the islands, which cannot therefore be very deep. The tide runs through them with great velocity, especially at ebb, when i)i the western channel it forms a true rapid, with much Seoond expan- white Water, sion. ■■ miles m length. The upper expansion, or Tsoo-skatli, is nine and a half and much less in width than the first. Its eastern side, as in the first, is formed of low land, while its south-western extremity is a long fiord-like inlet. In this upper expansion there are many islands, the largest of which (Has-keious Island) is nearly a mile QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 37 B ill diameter and about 200 foot high. The eastern portion of the south shore is rocky, and, sloping very gradually down below the water- level, gives rise to a complication of small islets and rocks. On the east side of Tsoo-skatli, two and a half miles from its extremity, is a rather remarkable hill, (Tow-us-tas-in) with a steep clitt' on one side, to which the Indians have attached a curious story. The north-eastern part of Tsoo skatli has a depth of from 10 to 16 fathoms. The depth of the north-western part, about the centre between the large island and the mainland, was ascertained in one place to be 23 fathoms. That of the south-western arm is probably considerably greater. Many streams flow into these upper expansions of Masset Inlet, of oid routes to which several Avell deserve to be called rivers. The largest is probably cape^iiilf."" tiiat which is known as Ya-koun, and enters the south-eastern corner of the northern expansion of the inlet, in the bottom of a shoal bay. About the mouth of the river are large sandy flats, dry at low tide. It was formerly navigable for small canoes a long way up, and is reported to head in a largo lake which, probably, like the expansions of Masset Inlet, lies along the junction of the hilly and low countries. This is the stream mentioned on a former page as forming a portion of the disused route from Masset to Skidegate. According to one account, the distance to be traversed on foot, after proceeding up the river as far as possible, is about half a day's journey. A trail from near the ^ mouth of this river also formerly led eastward to the old Indian village near Capo Ball ; but owing to heavy windfall caused by fire, both this and the navigation of the river have been given up. On the west side of the bay at the mouth of this river are a few small houses, which are inhabited during the salmon tishing season. The Ma-min River pins, the Tsoo-skatli expansion at its east end, and Eatcring rivers has a wide delta-flat about its mouth. It is navigable by small canoes for several miles, but is much obstructed by logs. It probably rises in u lake among the mountains to the south-west. The A-kuii River, joining the first expansion of the inlet from the south, some miles west of the entrance to Tsoo-skatli, was not particularly- examined, and may not be large. It is said to rise in a lake. The Ain River, entering the same exijansion from the north-west, is an important stream. There are several Indian houses which are occupied in summer about its mouth, and two about half a mile uj) its course. It is said to flow out of a very large fresh-water lake of the same name, the river itself being short. The lake is filled with islands, and is a favourite Lorrying place in the autumn. In winter it is frozen completely over. The rise and fall of the spring tides at the entrance of Masset Sound irregularities was estimated at about fourteen feet, but owing to the length of the ° ^^ *'" narrow sound, the first expansion has a tide of from eight to ten feet <■ :/h'* .:i ■ ' ■■■ *.'■ :••;■ (i 38 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. f Masset to Vira- go Sound. ? >; ' only, unci the Heconil or Tsoo-skatll still loss, about nix feot. On August 13th it was high water at tho entrance cf Massot Sound at Ih. 15m. P.M., while in the narrow entrance to Tsoo-skatli, twenty- three and a half miles distant, tho flood had just caused a reversal of the current at Oh. 20m. The coast between Masset and Virago Sounds is everywhere low, and differs from that east of Masset in being rocky or covered with boulders. No wide sandy bays occur. The points are generally of low rocks, dark in colour and of Tertiary age. Tho water is shoal far off shore, with wide fields of kolj). The trees along tho shore are not of great size, and are interspersed with occasional open grassy spaces. Nadenllarbour Virago Sound, constituting tho entrance to Naden Harbour, is situated in tho bottom of a deep bay, in which, according to the Admiralty sketch, the water averages about 4 fathoms in depth. The shoalest water lies a little outside tho narrow sound, and is 3:J- fathoms. In tho sound the water is fi*om 8 to 15 fathoms. The sound is loss than two miles in length, and loads into a spacious harbour about four miles in greatest length, and two in width, with an average depth of 8 to 10 fathoms. Low land densely wooded with spruce {A. Menziesii) and hemlock (^A. Mertensiana) of fine growth borders the whole harbour. Eock appears on the shore only near the bottom of the harbour and at the Kung Indian village, in the sound. The south-eastern shore of the harbour is low, witJi wide tido-flats, tho north-western comparativol}' bold. On the sketch of tho harbour which accompanies tho report, the soundings in the bay and sound, with the outlines of tho shoals, are adapted from the Admiralty sketch before referred to. Owing to the inaccuracies in form of the older plan, the channel may not be quite correctly laid down, and should bo navigated with caution. The Naden River enters the harbour at its south-east corner, and is pi'obably tho largest river on the Queen Charlotte Islands. It flows from a largo lake, which according to tho Indian accounts must be ton miles or more in diameter. A canoe can bo poled up iho river in about half a day to tho lake, but the stream has lately become encum- bered with many fallen trees. We rowed nearly two miles up the river in a large boat at high tide. Its general course is a few degrees west of south, and with the exception of a few swampy flats, its banks are densely wooded. Several sm.allor streams enter tho harbour ; one, in the south-west corner, is called Te-ka by tho Indians, on the Admiralty sketch Stanley Eiver. Before many years extensive saw-mills will doubtless be established on Naden Harbour. It is well situated for the export of lumber. The quality of the spruce timber is excellent, and besides the immediate shores of the harbour, logs might probably be run down tho Naden Eiver from the lake above. Naden River. Sites for saw- mills. QUEEN CHAELOTTB ISLANDS. 39 B jlished The Tied i ate Nadeii The Kung Indian village stands on the margin of a ci'osoentic sandy Indian vlllaget. beach on the weist side of Virago Sound, facing southward. It is now being abandoned for the new Ya-tza village to the north-west. Opposite the Kung village is a good anchorage. From Niulen Point, on the west sido of the bay of Virago Sound, the general trend of the shore-lino is west-north-westward for about seven- teen miles to Knox Cape, forming the north-western extreme of Graham Island. The shore and country behind it are generally low, though with some rocky cliffs of no great height. The points are rocky, but wide gravelly or sandy bays intervene. Some rocks occur at a little distance off shore, but there is no appearance of a wide shoal belt like that found east of Masset, Klas-kwim Point is a remark- Klas-kwun able promontory, rising in the centre to a hill about 200 feet in height, which, owing to the flat character of other parts of the shore, is visible for a long distance. In a rocky bay to the east of the point, and quite open to the north-eastward, is the new Ya-tza Indian village. Half- way from Klas-kwun Point to th^e east entrance to Parry Passage is t\\(i Jal-un Rioer. This stream is of no great size, but its mouth, in Jal-un River, the bottom of a little bay, forms an excellent canoe or boat harbour at high water, and appears to be a favourite camping place of travelling Indians. Three miles further westward is a small promontory, on the «ast side of which is another excellent boat harbour. To the west is a wide bay, which ma}' be called Pillar Bay, from a very remarkable Pillar Bay. rock which stands in it. This is a columnar mass of sandstone and conglomerate, about twenty-five feet in diameter and ninetj'-five feet high. The summit is sloping and covered with some small bushes. It is separated by water from the main shore at high tide, but rises from a sandy and stony flat at low water. The Ilaida name of this remarkable object is Hla-tad-zo-wbh. Parry Passage, so named after the late Sir E. Parry, separates North Parry Passage, Ishind from Graham Island. The passage proper is about two miles in length, with an average width of three-quarters of a mile, and opens westward into Cloak Bay of Bixon. Off the point on the south of the eastern entrance is a low rock, with a second reef covered at high water a little further out, rendering it necessary to enter with a south- westerly course. Lucy Island, on the north shore of the passage, is separated fiom the south shore of North Island by a narrow channel, on the north shore of which is a small Indian village, which was in foi-mer years a place of importance, and is evidently that called Tar- tanne by Douglas. A reef runs off the east end of Lucy Island, and a wide shoal with kelp stretches eastward from the shore of the southern extremity of North Island. Between these the channel extends with 8 to 11 fathoms of water. Abreast the Indian village the depth in the r .'» ;5i m i 40 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Indian villages, channel is 6 fathoms. Two (leHorte| i H 1 h QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 41 M no Hhclter, coiiisistin^ of Hovoral open buys with outlying rockw. llippaweitCoMU Isliiud \H said to bo high and bold Boawani, and the portion of the coast in its vicinity more bfolle me to make a survey or geological examination of the west coast of the islands, which would require to be carried on during the early summer, which appears to be the least boisterous portion of the j'ear. It is a very dangerous lee shore for sailing craft, and would, I believe, be most easily dealt with in one of the canoes of the counti-y, manned by a good Indian crew. Strong lidal currents prevail in the waters surrounding the Queen Charlotte Islands. The tide from the southward and that which has passed round the north end of the island meet between Eose Point and Cape Ball. The flood runs noithward along the southern part of the east coast, and eastward in Dixon's Entrance. The well-known Douglas tir does not occur in the Queen Charlotte Islands, finding its northern limit on the outer coast at the north end of Vancouver Island. Tao forest is chiefly composed of Menzies sp''uce (Abies Menziesii), the western cedar (Thuja (ji(/antea) and the western hemlock (Abies Mertensiana). The yellow cedar or cypress (Cupressus Nutkatensis) also occurs, though seldom in largo groves, and genei-ally scattered over the more barren and rocity portions of the hill slojjes. Of the trees above mentioned, Menzies spruce, the cedar and the cypress are the most valuable for lumber, and though the first-named is not consi.lered equal to the Douglas fir for most purposes, it must ere long become valuable, and can bo obtained of excellent quality and in almost inexhaustible quantity in these islands. Skidegate Inlet would be convenient in many respects as a site for saw- mills, but Naden Harbour or Masset are better situated for the purpose, attbrding easy across to a large area of wooded country. Humid climato '^^^ great growth of the trees and the comparative immunity of the woodland from forest fires depend principally on the damp character of the climate of the islands, which is also evidenced in many other Great abund iince of fine timber. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 43 B ways. The heaviest rainfall is, however, local, taking place on the neavj- IophI western mountainous axin, whore the westerly winds surcharged with '^*'" " ' moisture tirst meet an impediment in their flow, and are thrown up into the cooler regions of the atmosphere. It may often be noted that while heavy rain is falling on the mountains the sky is comparatively clear over the strait to the eastward From this circumstance the triangular area of low land forming the north-eastern part of Graham Island is not subject to an extremely heavy rainfall, and would appear to be well suited to agriculture but for the dense forest covering, which at the present time it will not pay to remove. The Hudson Bay Com- <^>'<"'inK '""''"• pany have a post at Masset, where, for some 3'ears, ittle have been kept, or rather have kept themselves, grazing on the open sand-hills in the vicinity of the coast, and requix'ing no attention suinmer or winter. Between Masset and Skidegate a considerable number of animals might live in this way, and it has been proposed to wintci- mules and horses from the mines of Cassiur in this country. In winter the rainfall in the islands is generally very heavy, with persistcntl}' overcast sky, and gales more frequent and violent than those experienced on the coast to the southward. No observations on the total iinua! precipitation exist. Snow occasionally falls in winter to a considerably depth, but Snow. does not lie long, except in the mountains. In the winter of 1877-78 no snow fell on the low lands. The general remarks on winds given for the coast to the southward storms and fogs in the Vancouver Island Pilot (page 4) apply almost equally well to those of the Queen Charlotte Islands, so far as the observations made in their vicinity show. It would appearfrom the direction of the win"as frequentlv obseiwed Averase louip- 1 II- i ]•! i^ * • !■ •^\ -4. m\ eiature of the where local circumstances dul not appear to imertere with it. 'Ihcsoa. temperature at the bottom could not be determined owing to the non- arrival of the thermometer ordered for that purpose, between Victoria ami Milbank Sound, by the inner channels, the temperatures taken every evening from May 28th to June 9th give an average of 54°. 1 Fahrenheit. From June 10th to August 28th, forty-two observations on ditterent days, all in the vicinity of the (^ucen Charlotte Islands, give a mean temperature of 53°. 8. Thi^ may be taken as rein'osenting pretty accurately the average temperature of the surface water during the three summer months — June, July and August. Seven observations in the channels between Port Simpson and ^lilbaiik Sound, between 44 B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. UHl! August 29th and September 12th, give a mean of 5i°.5. Fifteen obser- vationH between the last mentioned date and October 17th, taken about the north end of Vancouver IsUmd, and bv the inner channels to Vic- toria, give a moan of 50°. 7 degrees. Mud bi'ought up in the dredge from one hutidred fathoms, in Dixon Entrance, liad a tein- rature of 47°. Fishing bankf. The natives of the (^uoen Charlotte Island.s, as described elsewhere, live almost entirely on fish, more especially on the halibut. To tb' north of a line drawn from the entrance of Skincuttlo Inlet nurth-e ward across Hecate Strait, the depth of the water never exceeds l ' fathoms, and is generally very much less, A similar shallow urea, with a })robable width of ten or twelve miles, borders Ciraham Island to the north, and it is abso probably comparatively shoal for some distance off Halibut. the west coast of the northei-n part of the same island. These banks, swept by strong tidal currents, with the shoie line of the inlets and fiords, constitute the feeding grounds of the halibut and other ti>hes, and by their exceptional exteiision account for the great abundance of fish to be found in the vicinity of the islands. The halibut is doubtless the most important, and though it has not yet been found marketable cither salted or canned, if means were adopted whereby it might be carried in a fresh state to the southern markets, an extensive fishery DoK-fisli. might be maintained. The dog-fish {Acanthus Sukdyi), fountl in great abundance, is taken for the manufacture of oil, and a small establish- ment was at work in this business at Skidegato at the time of my visit, besides the less systematic operations of the Indians. Salmon. Salmon of two oi- more species i-un up most of the streams in large numbers, especiall}' in the autumn. They ai'c taken by the natives in wiers and by spearing, but as none of the rivers are large, the oppor- tunities for establishing canneries are not so good as in other parts of lleriinp. the Province. Ilei-ring are very abundant in some places, esjiecially in the vicinity of Skidegate^ at certain seasons. A species of pollock or coal-fish is caught in large numbers on certain parts of the west and norih coasts of the islands. It is prized by the Indians as a source of edible oil which some tribes use instead of that of the oolachen from Flat-fish. the Nasse Eiver. The last-named fish does not occur in the vicinity of the islands. Flounders and plaice abound in some localities. A true Cod. cod, probably of the same species as that for which vessels sail from San Francisco to the Okhotsk Sea, is found, but is not sought after by the Indians, though it may occur abundantly on certain banks at some Mackerel. seasons. The same remark applies to the mackerel, of which a species is found. Smaller fish, such as the various species of rock-cod and the shell-fish, which form an important item in tlie native dietary, it is unnecessary to particularize. With the exception of minerals of economic value, more fully treated of in a subsequent part of this QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 45 B report, it would appear tliat the fisheries and forests of the Queen Economic im- Charlotte Ishands will constitute their chief claim to attention, till such '""^"^""^^' time as the demand for arable land leads to the utilization of that portion of the surface which is fit for farming. Geoloqical Observations. General Remarks on the Bocks of the Queen Charlotte Islands. Tho mountainous axis of the Queen Charlotte Islands from Cape St. Composition of James to Skidegatd Channel, and probably still further northward as axis, far as Hippa Island, is composed of a mass of much disturbed, and in some places highly altered rocks, which have at first sight an appear- ance of great antiquity, but arc found on closer inspection to owe this appearance to tho inclusion of great masses of easily altered contem- poraneous volcanic matei-ials, and to the fact that thej' have been Hubjocted to an extreme of flexure and distui'bance which very *'"e- quontlv takes the character of actual fracture and displacement, aa has been observed elsewhere on the Pacific coast. To work out the intricacies of those older rocks, which maybe looked on as the nucleus of tho islands, would be a work of time anil would involve r-mch patient labour. In a preceding report on British Columbia it has been found neces- Pa'woxoic ami 'pj*!nuK|n rocks nary to include foi- the present the Paheozo'c and Triassic rocks under a single heading.* They lie together Vinconformably beneath well <^'haracterize(l Cretaceous bods, but are so much involved that no attempt has been made to separate them except locally. In the southern part of the interior of British Columbia both Carboniferous and Triassic fossils have been found among these older rocks, but noTriassic fossil?, forms of greater antiquity. In the Queen Charlotte Islands, now reported on, fossils have been discovered in the rocks unconformably underlying the Cretaceous in a number of places. These serve to liiaracterize a certain zone of argillites and limestones, which is fre- (juently "cpoatod in sections along ditferent parts of the coast, as distinctively Triassic ; and show it to represent the so-called Alpine Ti'ias wl'ich is so !a)"gely develo])ed in California and Nevada. No lornis (ii.^tinctively Carboniferous or Paho. zoic have yet been dis- covered, bi.'v from tho intimate association of iJarboniferous and Triassic possible occur- rocks in the southern interior of the Province, and more pai'ticularly fi^.n'ifliiKis '"^ from the occurrence of a gi-eat mass of rooks largely volcanic in origin '^^°'^°' and believed to be Carboniferous in age, in the southern part of Van- couver, — which forms part of the same axis of elevation with the • lloport of Progress, 1877-7S. I ' 4 Kf •I ,1 ■iJ 46 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Triassio fossils from Vancou- ver Island. Contemporan- eous volcanic matter. Queen Charlotte Islands, — it is highly probable that rocks of this ago may come to the surface in some places. Mr. Whiteaves, who has examined the fossils, does not find any clearly Triassic forms among those from Eose Harbour, the old copper mine in Skincuttle Inlet, and the south end of South Island in Skidegato Inlet. The limestones of these localities may therefore possibly be of Carboniferous age, and if so a large portion of the associated rocks of volcanic origin niust be attributed to the same period. As it is at present imjjossiblo to unravel the structural complexity of the sub-Cretaceous rocks of the islands, it has been thought best to colour them together on the map as Triassic, in correspondence with their characteristic fossils. Though no report is here made on observations in the northern part of Vancouver Island, it may be mentioned, that Triassic forms identical with those from one of the localities on Houston Stewart Channel, have been obtained on Forward Inlet and Browning Creek, Quatsino Sound. Any unconformity which may have existed between difterent beds of this sub-Cretaceous mass of rocks, may now be masked by their complete folding and the great disturbance and fracture to which they have been subjected. The occurrence of great masses of contempoi-an- eous volcanic material during both the Triassic and Carboniferous periods, in British Columbia, has been demonstrated in former reports; and in the event of the lower and possibly Carboniferous rocks proving to be really Triassic, their general character would accoi'd closely enough with that of those known elsewhere. Rocks of Logan The rocks characteristically j-epresented on Logan Inlet, antl extend- vicinity. ing northward and southward from it in a narrow trough, are evidently newer than the lithological bearing series of Skidegate is so great that it is not improbable that they may be of the same age. As no beds holding Cretaceous fossils have been found in association with these rocks, it has been thought best to include them for purposes of description with those mentioned above. The area which they occu))}- is, however, distinguished on the map from that of the older rocks, in so far as my observations enable me to define it. After the dejiosition of the rocks coloured as Triassic, and before the newer series with which the coal is associated began to be formed, a period of some disturbance must have intervened, to which a great part of the granitoid intrusive rocks of the region are possibly refer- able. Portions of these older rocks were raised above the sea level at this time, and the deposition of the Cretaceous coal-bearing rocks was inaugurated. This did not proceed uninterruptedly, however, for we gi-eater part of the series of the islands, and their resemblance to those contained in the Cretaceous coal- Distuibmce closing Triassic QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 47 B lis age M has among 3t, and •nes of and if lUbt be mrftvel slunds, 'riassic, rn part lentical Ihannel, kiatsino snt beds jy their ich they raporan- miforous reports ; proving : enough extend- Ividently nd their lus coal- libk- that IS fossils thought ontioned shed on irvations lefore the jrnied, a a great |)ly refer- ■i level at L)ck8 wa8 Ir, for we have evidence of the occurrence of a period of great volcanic activity, Cretaceous which led to the intercalation of several thousand feet of almost unmixed '*"' "" volcanic products. Following this, without any marked unconformity was a tranquil period, during which a great thickness of shales and shaly sandstones was deposited, and in connection with the earliest beds of which the Skidegate coal was formed. The overlying con- glomerates probably evidence a period of depression, after which, and closing as far as we know the record of the Cretaceous period in this region, an upper series of shales and sandstones was produced in a shallow and quiet sea. The great period of disturbance and mountain dfsturbano*©?''' formation for the region now supervened, and the only record we have of the time elapsing between the Ci-etaceous and later Tertiary is in the flexure, crumpling and fracture of the beds. It w^ould seem that during the portion of the Tertiary jieriod repre- Conditions dur- sented by the rocks of the north-eastern joortion of Gi-aham Island, the period, general relative level of sea and land has not been far different from that now obtaining. Wide areas, probably including much swampy land, were covered with a dense vegetation which in favourable cir- cumstances gave rise to lignite deposits. There ma}' have been several minor alterations of level, of one of which we have evidence at Skon-un Point, in the stratum with marine shells which overlies Lhe lignites. The records of the period are closed by the great volcanic flows which were probably supplied by a number of diftei-ent centres of eruption, tlie approximate positions of some of which are shown by the coarse agglomerate beds. Kotes on the Map. The older . ocks of the islands, coloured as Triassic, are placed in this Map., division on the evidence and with the reservations above detailed. Those coloured as Cretaceous constitute the coal-bearing series of Skidegate, and have sometimes been referred to the Jurassic period, though Mr. Wliiteaves, on more detailed examination of the fauna, is inclined to place them in the Cretaceous. The Tertiary rocks are ciiiefl}' volcanic, and are supposed to stretch below the low north- eastern part of Graham Island, beneath the drift covering. The fossils discovered are not sufficient clearly to prove their 3Iiocene ag<*, but they are classed provisionally as Miocene, as the}' represent with little doubt, rocks which have been attributed to this period on other parts of the West Coast. It should also be remembered, in con- sulting the map, that while the divisions are drawn with suflicient accuracy on those parts of the coast which have been survej'cd and examined, the continuation of the lines inland is based on the attitudes of the rocks and physical character of the country alone, and that u- H .11 48 B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. tho colouring of the regions of the West Coast whicli Imvc not been visited is hypothetical only. TABULAR VIEW OF FOKMATIONS REPRESENTED IN THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. PoHt-Pllocene. Sands and gravels. Plastic and boulder clays, gravel beds, &c. Unconformity, with evidence of some flexure and disturbance of Tertiary beds. 'Ml Tertiary, probably Miocene. Volcanic rocks of the north part of Graham Island. Sandstones, with marine fossils and lignites of Skun- un Point. Shales, clays and lignites of Ma-min River and Cbin- oo-kun-dl Creek. Complete unconformity, with evidence of great disturbance. Cliief period of mountain making. I, s« Cretaceous. A. Upper shales and sandstones. B. Coarse conglomerates. C. Lower shales and sandstones. D. Agglomerates. E. Lower sandstones. Unconformity, but without evidence of great disturbance. Triassic, but possibly Agglomerates and ash rocks of Log.n). inlet, &c, (These possibly represent Subdivision D., supra.) Flaggy calcareous argillitcs and thin limestones. passing below into i Massive limestones. Carboniferous. Massive dioritic and fehpatbic volcanic arcunnilii tions, probably including minor limestone beds, occa- sionally schistose. t boon JEEN ■y beds. iin Island. 18 of Skun- • and Cbin- peri od of inlet, &c. upra.) lestones. accunnilit beds, occii- QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. TaiASSIC. 49 B The rocks seen in the shores of Houston Stewart Channel arc every-,. where very much disturbed, shattered by faults and traversed by Stewart Chan- innumorablo dykes. This region lies in the line of the mountainous axis of the islands, and though no extensive granitic masses appear here, the intensity of the force brought to bear on this region is well exemplified. About the middle of the south-west reach of the channel, in :i bay on the south-east side, are extensive exposures of limestones and flaggy argillites, with general westerly dips. The limestones are i;enerally in thin beds, bluish-black on fi'esh fracture, and frequently fa'tid when struck. They are chorty, and contain blackish rounded musses or i-oot-likc concretions of silica, and blend with the shales or riaggy argillites, which appear to occupy a superior position. The argillites are calcareous throughout, and generally each bed is a few inches thick, though in some cases finely shaly. Fossils were found in ahiindance in some of the shaly layers and in the limestones. Mr. .1. l'\ Whiteaves enumerates the following species from this locality. They arc evidentlj- synchronous with the so-called Alpine Trias of'pji^,3i<. foggjij,, Nevada : — 1. Ampler HS {/), sp. nor. 2. Monotis subcirculnris, Gabi). 3. Halohia Lommeli, VViss. 4. Sphopra Whitneyi (?), Aleek. 5. Arcestes Gabbii, Meek. C. and 7. Fragments of two sjiecies of Ammonitoid shells, one of which appears to be new. Tiiey probably belong to dilt'ei'ent genera. 8. Belemnites, sp. nov. Felspathic dykes, generally of pale greenish-grey colour, traverse p. ^ the rocks in all directions, and stand out like ruined walls when the sottci' beds have been weathered away from them. These so compli- cate the section as to render accurate measurement impossible, but there is probably 500 feet or more in thickness of the limestones and argillites. At the point on the cast side of the entrance to Rose Harbour, large 1 masses of limestone, similar to the more compact layers of tliat above [ilescribed, again appear. They are nearly vertical in attitude, with la strike of about N. 26° E., but are traversed by a great number of hlykes and intrusive masses of felspathic rock. A few fossils, among jwliieli ai-e fi'agments of gasteropoda, apparently of the genera Murchi- mnhi, Katicopsis and Macrocheilus, were here again found. Chert is lalmndant. Following the ntrike of the limestone in this place, and ,r I V t'/JfrVf C-- t !;•. 50 B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Supposoil ar- rangement of beds. Fossils from Rose Harbour. closely associated with it, arc igneous rocks, apimrently contcmpoi-aii- eous. Tiie most abundant is darlc blackish-green, spotted, and may be called a diabase, though it is difficult from its decomposed cliaracter to determine the several ingredients. In it are massos, irregular in Ibrin and jierhaps concretioiuiry, of paler felspathic material, which piuject on weathered surfaces and assume a brown sub-metallic polish. It would bo hazardous to attempt to delineate the course of the beds in the Houston Stewart region on the information obtained. It may be, however, that the limestone just described rejjrcsentn the continua- tion of that on the opposite side of the channel, which may run with its associated argillites u]) the centre of Eoso Harbour, and so through to South Cove in Carpenter Bay, where the argillites are again fouml. In this case the limestone ex])0sures near the mouth of the Sodmond River, at the head of Rose Harbour, would represent the same bed on the opposite side of a narrow synclinal occupied by argillites. The fossils obtained in this place, however, differ from those of the first- mentioned locality in facies. Mr. AVhitoavcs recognizes in the lime- stone imperfect casts of lamoUibranchiata and gasteropoda, whieii seem to belong to the following genera: — Igneous rocks. 1. Pcctcn, or Aviculopectoi, one species. 2. Cardiomorpha {?), two species. One with radiating ril)s. like C, radutta, DeKoninck ; the other with smooth surface. 3. Loxonema (or Murchisonia), one species. 4. Macroeheilus, near M. ca7iaUculatus, McCoy. 5. Euomphalus, !•. lik> ol' tilt- Trias^ic issivc, and jillites or :-s a grey cd with :i ic cases ;i le soawavil irely eom- odded l»ut the uortli- for f^ovfii ioritic aivi Ih-eabtcrly Hti'ikos. These are supposed to underlie the limestones above described. Small quartz veins with a littlo copper pyi-ites were observed at one place. At Forsyth Point, on the north side of Houston Stewart ]|\f,|,''t';f„ '*"'"'' Cliannel at its east ontrauce, the rock is a massive granitoid dioritc or St^ewut Chan- hornblendic granite, containing fragments of darker rocks like those elsewhere forming a part of the stratified series, and traversed by dark greenish dykes of porph3'i'itic felspathic rock. At Point Langford contorted fragments of much hardenetl argillites rest in a grey-green felspathic and jwrphyritic matrix. From this point round the pro- montory to Islet Point, forming the southern entrance point of Car- penter Bay, the widest expanses are of blackish and greenish argillites, much altered, ilisturlied and traversed by dykes, but nevertheless in a few places holding impressions of a many-whorled, strongly-ribbed aniniouitoitl shell, perhaps a species of Clydonite.'i. The ribs bear a single row of nodes or spines near the periphery. This is very different to cither of the Ammonitoid shells from Houston Stewart Inlet. East of Islet Point these rocks seem to forma broad curve with general north- easterly dips at mcvlerate angles, the highest rock seen being a massive grey-green porphyritic material like a much altered agglomerate. The rocks in Carpenter Bixy are so much disturbed that there is uockaofCar- littlo chance of getting any general idea of their arrangement. They '"="'" '^'^y- are, however, doubtless of the same age with those of Houston Stewart. Argillites are largely represented, but are everywhere cut up and iiitorfei'ed with by dykes, so much so that in some places fragments only ut the sedimentary rocks remain, contorted or steeply tilted. Other areas are characterized by greenish-grey felspathic diorites, of line grain and often epidotic. It is difficult to suy whether these are altered volcanic beds or intrusive nias.ses. At Iroji Point, on the north side of the entrance to the bay, ai-e considerable ex]iosuros of hard greyish felspathic sandstones, which occasionally become conglomeritic and hold blackish shaly fragments. The dij)s are undulating, and the formation at this place on the whole nearly flat. Pyrites in small concretionary masses is found in the sandstones, and causes them to assume on weathering a rusty appearance. They are also very hard and somewhat peculiar in appearance, leading at first to the belief that they might be in part of volcanic oi'igin. This, however, is not the case, lender the microscope they are found to consist chiefly of (juartz, ])articles of dark argillites, and a pale fine-grained laminated rock which may be a Cjuartzite. In Skincuttle Inlet limestones are well represented, and would afford .Skincuttle a means of tracing out in detail the structure of the rocks, were suffi- cient time devoted to this purpose. On the east side of the entrance to Harriet Harbour, flaggy limestones, with some much altered argillites, Inlet. 52 B GEOLOUICAL SURVEY OF CANAliA. Limostono band«> rock. ai'O found (lipping north-wontwiird lit an uns^lc of 60°. This appears, howovLT, to 1)0 an aI)iioi'nial attitudu duo to local disturltanoe, for what 1h aijparcntly the same zono of liniDslonu runs Mouth-\vo.>4t\vard to the inner end of Harriet Island, and bending sharply round this, again appears on the jjoint at tlie west side of the harbour, and is here well shown, dipping south-westward at an angle of 45°. The limestone is gre}' and cryptoerystalline, and holds cherty concretions together with siliceous veins which stand out on weathered surfaces. The thickness Caicarcou? u«h "^ ^'"' ^^''^ ''* considerable, but is not completely shown. It is underlain by a peculiar material, which ajipears to be a fels])athic ash i-ock containing a large projMtrtion of calcareous matter. Itis grey in colour, 8I)eckled by the mixture of light and dark fragments, and siiot through with iron pyrites in small concretions and veins. The I3olkus Islands, lying opposite the mouth of Harriet Harbour, in the centre of the inlet, are for the most part composed of similai- limestone to that Just described. In the bay on the east side of the largest oi' western island, this is found to overlie a grey rock which evidently represents that described as occupying a similar position in relation to the limestone at Ilairiet Harbour. It here, however, simulates an amygdaloid in appearance, but is probably similai' in origin fo the last. The calcareous matter with iron i^yrites has foiincd rounded concretionary masses. This in turn rests upon a massive green amygdaloid of basic character. The thickness of the overlying limestone as shown on this island is at least 1500 feet. It iiu'ludes some layers of flaggy limestone, and of a dark grey rock of flue grain which may be called an impure limestone, and has probably been a highly calcareous mud. There can be little doubt but that the limestones of the Bolkus Islands i-cpresent those of llai'riet Harbour and vicinity, being the north side of an anticlinal fold, the axis of which run> westward up the main channel. It is further probable that the same band, leaving the cast end of the Bolkus Islands, runs across to the west end of the Copper Islands, and that the bend thus made corresponds with that shown on the southern side of the supposed anticlinal, in Harriet Harbour. The limestone now described is also probably the same with that found in Houston .Stewart Iidet. Copper Is In ml.-. The Copper Islands are largely cora])osed of grey sub-cystalline limestones, closely associated, and in some cases interbedded, with greenish dioritic rocks, which are often compact, but occasionally evident altered amygdaloids. The general strike is nearly east and west, with prevailing northerly dips at angles of about 30°. In the dioritic rocks, copper ore, in the form of small irregular strings ami concretionary masses of copper pyrites, occurs in many ])laces. These weather conspicuously green, and prove the cupriferous character of Possible ;ir- raiiKemt'iit of rocks. Copper ore. (JfEEN niARLOTTE ISLANDS. 5:{ n this part of the fonniilion, thoiij^li no iloposits of workable dimonsions were obsoi'vcd. Woll-defiiiod veins of ([iiai'lz and ealcito traverse the inlands in several piai-eswitli general north-westerly and south-easterly bearings, hut were not found to contain any (.'oj)per. The aetionof the weather on the limestone exposed between low-water Peculiar mark uiul the edge of the woods causes them to assume a rough, pitted nmestoncs. ' surface, on which hollows are separated by steep, sharp-edged ridges and lirittle points, sustaineil generally by some siliceous or other imi)urity in thostone. WHiere ahollow is formed which will contain sea or rain-water, it may be noticed that its sides are eaten into along a line corresj)ond- ing with the height at which the water overflows, a circumstance, n<>^ doubt de])ending on the absorption liy the surface of the water, thus, tor a time stagnant, of carbonic acid from the atmosphere. The pecu- liarly rough character of these limestone surfaces is, no doubt, due in part to the constitution of the rock, but also to the great rain-fall ami jH'rsistent cloudiness of the region. Limestones characterize the shores of the point on the north side Obscure f().»sils. of the inlet, opjiositethe inner end of the Copper Islands, di})ping west- ward on its eastern shore, and in association with argillites northward on its .southern. These are somewhat different in appearance from those above described, and it is not known whether they represent a broken portion of the westward continuation of the Copper Islands belt or a second limestone zone of a different horizon. The fossils obtained here are described by Mr. Whiteaves as. — 1. Casts of a large Murchlsonia or Loxonema, the whorls of which arc rather longer than wide. 2. Casts of a discoidal spiral shell, which are so l)a% /- ■■ ,^ <<;» .V % t/. fA 1.0 I.I ■^ 1^ 12.2 11:25 i 1.4 1.8 1.6 ^ ^ V. ? /] c? 7 /S^ <^ ^^ s\ 7i s 54 B GEOLOUICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. IV ProUbie Crota- once referred to. ceous outlicrf which has a general course of N. 34° W. The dyke traverses the lime- stone of the region, which is hero nearly flat, and also an aascoiated and probably contemporaneous dioritic mass. It is probably to intersect this dyke that the shaft has been sunk, but there is now no appearance on the surface which would justify extensive exploration. This is the opening named ' main shaft' on the sketch of the inlet by Poole. Huston Inlot. Limestone appears at the points on both sides of Huston Inlet. It is also found on the sonth-west side of *he inlet at several points, in asso- ciation with massiv*^^ contemporaneous green volcanic rocks, of which one — at the point at the knee of the inlet — is a well characterized amygdaloid. It is not improbable that the anticlinal axis, already mentioned as running east and west south of the Bolkus Islands, turns . abruptly at the west end of the inlet to a southerly course, running into George Bay, and thence west of, but nearly parallel to, Huston Inlet. Huston Inlet would then mark the run of one band of the limestone and of the flaggy, calcareous argillites already more than At Boulder Island, near the entrance to the inlet, several hundred feet in thickness of blackish argillites, with calcareous concretions and sandstones, and thin limestones, o; cur, and may repre- sent this band, though it is perhaps more probable that they belong to a small outlier of the overlying Cretaceous coal-bearing series, which appears in the form of sandstone and conglomerate bods at low angles on the south-western point of the Bolkus Islands. Ironoro. At the cast side of the entrance to Harriet Harbour Mr. Poole has marked a deposit of magnetite on his sketch. This occurs on the beach in the form of an irregular mass, which measures on the surface sixty- seven feet across. It is contained in a body of fine grained groenisb trappean rock, which is intrusive in the limestones and associated bods. In some places lai'ge blocks of nearly pure magnetite may be obtained, while in others it is much mixed with quartz, and contains also a considerable proportion of iron pyrites in irregu- lar bunches and strings. This in decomposing gives the whole mass a reddish colour, and from its intimate association with the magnetite might to some extent injure the quality of the ore. On laying down the course of the dyke at Mr. Poole's ' main shaft,' (m the north side of Skincuttle Inlet, it is found to very ncarh strike that associated with this dei)osit, which also appears to have a north-west and south-east course. It is therefore highly i)robable that both represent portions of the same intrusion. That the iron ore runs southward beyond the locality where it was seen in place in Harriet Harbour is shown by the fact that loose masses of it are found on the south end of F'lrriet Island. Those must have been carried thither from some place higher "^ chc valley, in common with other boulders, during the glacial period. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 65 B e s ' main The ore is a remarbably pure coarsely crystalline magnetite. Speci- Anaiysi*. mens of an average character examined by Mr. C. Hoffmann were found to contain 58'06 per cent, of metallic iron, while a fragment exception- ally rich yielded 69-88 per cent. The extremity of Granite Point is composed of a grey coarso-grainod Granite Point sycnitic rock, which is evidently intrusive, but the precise relations of which I.O the neighbouring beds is obscure. In Burnaby Strait green rocks, often evident volcanic bi'eccias, pre- Bumaby Strait, ponderate, and are indeed almost exclusively represented. They are generally massive, showing no distinct bedding, but everywhere jointed and fissured. These are supposed to belong to the great igneous series Avhich underlies the massive limestones. Irregular veins of red- weathering dolerite are abundant in this vicinity. Both points of the eastern bay on the north shore of Burnaby Island are composed of similar massive greenish rocks, but on the east side of the next bay — called Section Cove on the map — limestones appear resting on them, and striking north-westward from the south-east point of Huxley Island and a small islet lying off it. The rocks in Section Cove were examined with some care and measured Section Cove. I)}- pacing. Their arrangement is represented on the section. (Fig. 2). The line of junction of the green rocks with the limestone is confused by innumerable small faults and fractures. The lower part of the limestone is massive and cherty in places, but it soon becomes flaggy, and contains in some layers abundance of fossils, chiefl}' belonging to the tv.'o following Triassic species. — 1. Monotis subcircularis, Oabb. 2. Halobia Lommeli, Wiss. After about 350 feet of pretty pure limestone, the beds are concealed for some distance, and when again seen are largely made up of cal- j^^g'][y®^ ^""^ caroous flaggy argillites, nearly black in colour. These with occasional beds of pure limestone form the whole upper part of the series, to a large felspathic mass on the oast side of the bay which appears to be intrusive, and beyond which the beds are so much confused and broken that no estimate of their thickness could be formed. Further on, several additional intrusive felspathic masses occur. They are grey, porph^^ritic, resemble some of those of Houston Stewart Channel, and are probably of .the same age. The thickness of the limestones and flaggy argillites of the lower part of the series which maintain a suffi- cient regularity to admit of accurate measurement is about 1733 feet. They ai'c generally in a nearly vertical attitude. •' # Triassic fossils- •* l'-'>r4 •• 56 B OEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. m ''Mil- '■' !■ s, ■ - .. I h p.. -■■ «*Sv4V0\\ I O "B s I a "3 - a 5 g S o ij § St § .3 H I ^ § o . £ i^^B: ;^c •a 3 s M 5 =0 = •9 ~ « i a — « .3 a. O o a 1^ 4! B 0« B g s o o a g a 6 QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS, 57 B From tho bay opposite Alder Island, the whole north shore of Bur- Dioritio rooks., naby Island appears to be formed of greyish dioritic rocks, which occasionally become granitoid, and are composed of two varieties of felspar and pale or dark green hornblende. Those ai-e doubtless intru- sive, and subsequent in date to the bedded materials. They resemble the granitoid rock of Granite Point, at the north side of Skincuttle Inlet, but this is more highly crystalline and somewhat paler in tint. From the northern entrance of Burnaby Strait, along the south-west side of Juan Perez Inlet, and on both sides of Darwin Sound, the rocks continue in general appearance like those of Burnaby Strait, but arc in the main more felspathic, and in places become schistose, and bear an older appearance. The zone above indicated is probably in fact that Outcrop of of the outcrop of the oldest part of the rock series recognised in the (^ueen Charlotte Islands, though it does not seem possible to separate it from the rocks before described by any well-mai-ked line. It I'emains, indeed, doubtful whether the'rocks of this region appear in a long, irregular anticlinal or merely form tho disturbed edge of a series with general north-easterly dips. The former, however, appears to be the more probable suppostion. Iii Werner Bay, the rocks seem to be chiefly felspathic, in some places thin-bedded, but are associated with greenish bedded diorites, much resembling those of the Yictoria series of the south of Vancouver Island. On the west side of Hutton Inlet, near its entrance, i-ocks apparently of dioritic composition, but in some places evidently fragmental, and frequently schistose, are interbedded with limestones, which are occasionally converted into white marble. Crinoidal joints were observed on one weathered surface. Greenish Fosailg. and greyish-green rocks, chiefly felspathic in composition but passing, in some cases, into moi-e or less perfectly characterized diorites, con tinue along the shore to the vicinity of Bigsby Inlet entrance front of this inlet is composed of similar rocks, but the greater part of its south shore and the mountains rising beyond it are granitic. Where examined, the granite is coarse, and consists of white felspar, hornblend and mica, with little quartz. It forms, without doubt, an extensive mass, and does not pass i)y gradual stages into the rocks before described. The north shore of Bigsby Inlet is composed of hai-d grey-green rocks, chiefly felspathic in composition, and in some places evident amygdaloids. Near the north entrance point of the inlet, weathered surfaces of these assume a very peculiar appearance, pre- senting botryoidal forms, which are involved among themselves in such a way as to preclude the possibility of their being fragments. They appear, indeed, to represent tho surface of an old lava flow, which has now again been brought to view by the removal of the superincumbent strata. The aijpearance of these rocks is much like that of those of the f^b The southern ?o,olj8 of Bigsby Inlet. I id 58 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Shuttle Island, entrance to Rose Harbour. The roclcH of Shuttle Island are generally more or loss schistose, and in some places are very markedly so. They are greyish and greenish in colour, and felspathic or dioritic in compo- sition. In one place on the east side a pale grey talcose shist occui-s, and the schists arc interbodded with limestone or coarse marble in thin layers at the southern extremity of the ielanu. This horizon is almost certainly the same with that of the entrance to Hutton Inlet, above described. Similar felspathic and dioritic rocks, though not so dis- tinctly schistose, form the west side of Lyell Island, with the exception of False Bay, where flaggy, blackish argillites appear, and run south- eastward in a low country toward Sedgwick Bay. Crescent Inlet. The anticlinal of Darwin Sound probably runs up Crescent Inlet to the north, turning westward with its extremity. In Klun-kwoi Bay the rocks so far as seen arc rather dioritic than felspathic, and in some places evident amygdaloi('s. Argillites appear on both sides of Crescent Inlet. In one place on the 80i\th-west shore these were found to be fossil iferous, containing fragments of moulds of an ammonitoid shell of the same species as those from Houston Stewart Inlet, also a small Pecten or Aviculopecten. A band of black calcareous argillites with flaggy limestones, in all about 30 feet in thickness and dijjping N. 80° W. < 50°, was here also obsei'ved to be intercalated between two masses of conglomerate made up of fragments of crj'stallino rocks, with limestone and pieces of argillite like the surrounding beds. The lower conglomerate is sharply bounded above by the base of the argillites ; the upper rests on a broken and disturbed surface of the argillites, evidencing some unconformity by erosion. This little section is rather puzzling, but appears to repre- sent on the whole a conglomciitic mass forming a portion of the great argillite band. White Point, at the east side of the entrance to Crescent Inlet, is composed of pale felspathic rocks, which are probably intrusive. To the north-east of the belt of rocks just described, which character- izes the south-west side of Juan Perez Inlet and Darwin Sound, is an Conglomerate layer. Area of newer volcinic rocks. extcTisive area diff'ering in general lithological character from most of the rocks previously met with, and probably representing a higher part of the series. This area, which seems to be a broad synclinal, though complicated by many minor irregularities and folds, has a length of about thirtj'-one miles in a north-west and south-east direc- tion, with a probable average width of five to six miles. It embraces M great part, at least, of Ramsay and adjacent islands, and of Lyell Iidand, composes Tan-oo Island and the narrow promontory separating Logan and Dana Inlets, and appears to characterize the greater part of the shores of Selwyn Inlet. The synclinal then seems to turn m-i : i4 QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 69 B westward, and whs not further seen. The rocks aro best displayed on the north side of Logan Inlet. Near the base of lied Top Mountain, on the north side of Crescent Inlet, flaj^gy argillites appear, much broken and traversed by dykes, but with general low north-easterly dips. They run south-eastward, through low ground, behind the felspjithic rocks of White Point, and come out on the shore of Logan Inlet near its west end. These argillites probably i-opresent those frequently before mentioned. They are found on the opposite side of Cre.scent Inlet, apparently forming the other slope of an anticlinal, which is no doubt the continuation northward of that already mentioned in Darwin Sound. A few fossils (mentioned on p. 58 li.) were obtained FosBiiiforoug from them here, and they were also found to he fossiliforous in the*"*' small island near the entrance to Echo Harbour, where Monotis subcir- cularis was recognised. The widtli of the north shore of Logan Inlet occupied by the argillite band is a mile and a half or more, but the shore is rather low, and the section is not continuous. The argillites are then overlain in apparent conformity by flaggy grey sandstones, chiefly folspathic in composition. These are followed in turn by coarse Folspathk- conglomerates with well rounded fragments, which appear to be chiefly or entirely of crystalline rocks, unlike those of this part of the series. If no faults not recognized atl'cct the strata, the conglomoi-ate must have a thickness of several hundred feet at least. To the conglomerates Congloinerutei<. follow the great overlying series of agglomerate and ash i-ocks, the distribution of which has been outlined above. These occupy- the shore of Logan Inlet for about five miles easlAvard, but are cut oft' near the outer point by a mass of coarse grey granitoid diorite with epidoto. The agglomerates are occasionally coarse, but usually fine-sj:i'ained, and Awiomeratea °^ .;>./{->! ^^j g^jj rocks. graduate into ash rocks, which again pass into a compact material which may be called a felsite, and may in sonie cases represent former flows of molten mutter. The rocks are not highly crystalline, but generally dull and fino-grained on fracture, and pale in colour. The prevalent tints are greys and light grey-greens, and these characterize equally the fragments and matrix of the agglomerates, between which there is frequently very little lithological diversity. The beds ai*e everywhere considerably disturbed, but the north side of liOgan Inlet would probably be the best locality in which to make a measured section of the strata. The total thickness of the volcanic series over- Thickness, lying the argillites and conglomerates can scarcely, however, be less than 5000 or 6000 feet. The greater part of the rocks of Ilamsay, Murchison, Faraday and the Tar Islands are supposed to belong to this overlying volcanic series. Well bedded and fine-grained pale felspathic sandstones, prob- ably i-epresenting those immediately overlying the argillites at the -tv^?ji ||E|i! •'i^i':.' Ih'^^'^ |Bffi';!|l''« i S» \ >• ,'t ' ■ !#■,;. ^ ■ '■ * 1 . ■' I if m r mi m Outlying island?. Coarse agglo- merate. Dolerite. Bitumen. Rocks of Sel- wyn Inlet. 60 B GEOLOGICAL SURVHY OF CANADA. west end of Logan Inlet, are found on the western ends of the three first-mentioned ishmds. On the shore of Murchison Island these are intimately associated with hardened blackish argillitos, the section being, however, hopelessly confused by the pi-esenco of a number of tine grained pale felspathic and porphyritic dykes. The mass of the argillites probably runs down the north-ea.it side of Juan Perez Inlet, but beneath the water. About the middle of the north-west side of Ramsay Islaud, rocks differing somewhat from those generally found in the series appear. Thej' form the entire north-eastern part of the island, the eastern part of Murchison Island, and probably the whole of the Tar Islands. These rocks are somewhat more basic, and though tilted in some places at high angles, of less altered appearance than those of Logan Iidet. They include a great thickness of rough agglo- merate which has evidently been formed in the immediate vicinity of volcanic vents, as some of the included masses are over four feet in diametei". These frequently project on surfaces exposed along the shores by reason of the comparatively soft character of the mati'ix. The matrix and its included i'ragments are apparently similar in character. A microscopic section of one of the latter proved it to be a dolerite which with a dark finely granular ground-mass is rendered porphyritic by felspar and pyroxene crystals, which are frequently more or less perfectly stellar aggregations. The rock has not suffered much change, the minerals being clear and sharp. A bed apparently of porphyritic dolerite forming a small island off the east shore of Eamsay island is nearly vertical and has a rude columnar structure. The Tar Islands appear to mark the outcrop of the most massive agglomerate bed. It is reported that on one of them bitumen oozes out in small quantities among pebbles on the beach. Agglomerates of a similar character are found on the east side of the entrance to A-tli Inlet, on the north shore of Lyell Island. At the noi'th entrance of the narrow passage inside Tal-un-kwan Island detached masses of agglomerate and conglomerate are abundant, and though the rocks were not seen in place, they probably represent the northern continuation of the conglomerate described as lying at the base of the upper igneous series on Logan Inlet. The promontory south of Rock-fish Harbour is composed of much hai*dened and well bedded felspathic rocks, occasionally agglomerates, nearly vertical, and with a general east and west strike. Similar rocks appear to charac- terize both shores of Selwyn Inlet up to the long western arm, where the trough formed by these newer volcanic rocks runs inland to the westward. The northern shore of this arm is composed, however, of argillites, with some conglomerate, the latter probably representing the horizon already several times referred to, aud indicating that this ^(5 Ti-kwan :)undant, epresent ying at montory and well ical, and charac- , where to the pever, of esenting that this QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 61 B zone, though probabl}' most closely connected with the tlaggy argiliitcs, is persistent near the base of the overlying volcanic Hcries, and that if there be any unconformity between the two it must be slight. To the oast of this area of volcanic rocks newer than those of the Kun-wi Island Nouthern extremity of the islands, Kun-ga Island yet remains to be noticed. The inner or west end of the island is composed of hard greenish dioritic rocks like those elsewhere found below the massive limestone. The small island named Ti-tul, which lies off the north Hhore of Kun-ga, is composed of limestone, which also foi'ms the north Limestone, point of Kun-ga, and I'uns across it in a south-south-easterly direction. To the cast of the limestone, and apparently following it conformably, with general eastwai-d dips at high angles, or nearly in a vertical posi- tion, is a great series of flaggy blackish argillites, thin limestones and argillaceous sandstones. A few fossils, similar to those of the first- Fossils, mentioned locality in Houston Stewart Channel, and of Triassic age, Avore obtained. If the upper volcanic series described in preceding paragraphs rests conformably above the argillites and associated rocks, it must be supposed cither that a fault se])arates these rocks from those of the cast end of Tan-oo Island, or that the limestones and argillites are folded over an anticlinal axis running north-north-east and south-south-west through the western part of Kun-ga Island, and that their westward-dipping portion is concealed below the water between the two islands. At the north entrance jwint of Sehvyn Inlet, massive limestones are again found, and on the coast between this point and the bottom of Skedans Bay, limestones and argillites are the most abundant rocks, the part of the series characterized b}' these materials being appar- ently several times repeated by folds. Point Vertical is a remarkably bold spur between two bays, composed of massive beds of limestone nearly on edge, and aggregating at least 400 feet in thickness. The limestone is grey, with the stratification well marked by layers charged with black cherty concretions, and by the solvent action of the water along certain planes. Some layers have a curious concretionary struc- ture. They are traversed in all directions by little siliceous veins as thin as paper, the polygonal forms included between which have a superinduced concentric structure. North of Point Vertical are two islands which maybe called Limestone Islands. On the inner of these the massive cherty limestone, with a dip of N. 1G° E. < 40, is seen to lie directly upon an igneous material, resembling tliat found in a simi- lar position inSkincuttle, and consisting of a fragmental grey felspathic rock holding pyritous and calcareous concretions. The adhesion of the limestone to tlie igneous series is thus conclusively shown by its con- formable superposition on igneous rocks of precisely the same character Limestones of Point Vertical. Limestone and contcmpora- U00U8 igneous beds. '..■it (^ ',-.r, Jr',"- Al :• Im, 62 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Overlap of Cretaceous ugglomerates Persistent limestone band Argiuitos and >" widely Hoparntod localities. In exposuroH ju8t outside the south point llnuable? """" ^^ Bkedans Buy, the conformable junction with the limestones of the blackish flaggy argillites is also shown, confirming the opinion of their / relation formed from the inspection of other localities. The rocks are much broken by dioritic intrusions, but the limestones, becoming thin- bedded towards the top, are distinctly interleaved with the argillites. The south-east side of Skedans Bay is composed of limestone, of the usual character, with general north-easterly dips. At the bottom of the bay this is followed, in ascending order, by the argillites, and to the north these are seen overlapped by agglomerate beds, which are supposed to belong to the series (Subdivision D.) attached to the Cretaceous coal measures. The first point south of Point Vertical shows similar rocks to these last mentioned, which may there foi-in a small outlyer, and are certainly newer looking than any others of the vicinity. Nearly in the line of strike of the limestone of the south side of Skedans Bay, westwai'd, on the south sideof the West Arm of Cumshewa Inlet, at a distance of sixteen miles, similar limostone is again found ; while argillites occur on the south-east side of the South Arm, holding Monotis subcircularis. The general line of strike thus indicated is con- firmed by the parallelism to it of that of the rocks of Selwyn Inlet, and it is further probable that the limestone and argillites found west of Log Point, on the south shore of Skidogate Inlet, belong also to the same line of outoi'op, which in this case can be traced in a general direction of N. 67° W for a total distance of thirty-three miles. The general strike of the older rocks sweeps round to this bearing fi-oni one of N. 35° West, which is the more usual in the southern portion of the islands. With the exception of the limestones and argillites above referred to, the rocks observed in the western part of Skidegate Channel are entirely igneous, dioritic or felspathio. The argillites hold Monotis subcircularis in great abundance. The existence in Skidegate Inlet of several small projections of tne older rocks among those of the Creta- ceous coal-bearing series, has already been referred to. Of these the most interesting is a mass of limestone forming the south-eastern point of South '^^sland, which yielded a few fossils, on which Mr. Whiteaves furnishes the following note. — 1. A small oval, Terehratula-Wke shell. Sections of some of these specimens have been made, but the interior of each was found to be full of crystalline calcite, and no information as to the structural character could be obtained. It is not certain, therefore, to what family this shell should be referred. 2. Euomphalus sp. indt. Change in strike. Fossils from South Island. 1:^*1- A \ »y Mr. pn. • "■ *"'!*! k-;* ! ■'' ' : » [te. » /S. ..' '•! S ,."•*(> ? A ' H-. If ^ ^^'■ '^ 5 ' i^' ■ r ■>! r i* ■' *• 1^ ■4 I. y ■ ft tf I V'j ■ f ■ I Upptr Shalt &■ Stuufalentia («ntfft seen at a locality four miles up the channel which leads from South Bay to the west coast, where the rocks of C. seem to form a little broken synclinal, with steep dips, and strike nearly parallel to the Broken anthni- direction of thc passagc. Grey felspathic sandstones are here inter- bedded with dark argillites, all much hardened, and holding on the north side of the fold a little anthracite coal, the fragments of which arc bounded by small faults by which the rocks are here dissected. No estimate of the thickness or character of the seam at this place can be formed, and the coal is only interesting as showing that the rocks continue thua far at least to maintain their coal-bearing character. This locality was one of which Mr. Eichardson was informed, but had not time to visit. Fossiiiferons Subdivision C. is throughout characterized by the great abundance character of C.^^ fossils.* These occur in both the sandstones and inhales, and fre- quently are specially abundant in the calcareous nodules, of which each one in some places contains an Ammonite or other form. The rocks form a synclinal in Alliford Bay, and fringe the north-cufstorn part of Maude • The fossils described by Mr. J. F. Whiteaves in Mcsozoic Fossils, Vol. I., Part 1., arc almost exclusively from this horizon. Those collected by me dui ing the summer of 1878 are not referred to in this report, but will bo dosoribed in a succeoeding part of the volume to which reference is here made. Bay. est bods On the ;voy and t uncon- larity of between osents a tivod by )., which iitions of he north It is also »m South 1 a little i\ to the ere inter- g on the of which issccted , place can the rocks laracter. , but had ibundance and fre- hich each ocksform of Maude l.,uro almost e not referral ih reference is QOEBN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS, 69 B Island, crossing it with considerable width about the middle, and run- ning thenco to the south-east end of South Island. They constitute the whole north shore of Bear-skin Bay and the greater part cT Lina Island. A""^*" oc«i- Westward, after a gap occupied by the upper beds, they reappear at Shallow Bay, and run thence northward, past the coal mine and up the valley of Slate Chuck Creek. They form the shore for a breadth of over a mile in the vicinity of Salt Spring Bay, and in a compressed and partly overturned synclinal occupy the entire width of the Long Ai-m, appearing in a zone of variable thickness on both shores. A short distance north-west of Steep Point, a promontary is composed of rather massive sandstones of this .series, the thickness of which must be about GOO feet. These appear again at Young Point, on the opposite side of Long Arm. On the south shore, east of AUiford Bay, the rocks described on page 70 B. are also probably referable to subdivision C. The thickness of subdivision C, though variable, is great. On the Thickness, north side of Bear-skin Bay, south of the main fault, the section appears to be undisturbed, and would indicate a thickness of about 5000 feet, ^ ' ,' the summit not being seen. On Lina and Maude Islands, the thickness was estimated at about 4200 feet. North of Shallow Bay, near the coal mine, the thickness of the entire subdivision is probably not over 3200 feet, unless undiscovered fixults affect the section, Avhile in Long Arm, the part included in the fold is not over 1800 feet thick. D. Agglomerates. — Subdivision D. forms the mass of Mount Seymour, Subdivision D. and the mountains on both sides of Long Arm, the greater part of the eastern end of Maude Island, Leading Island and islets adjacent, and in a horse-shoe-shaped synclinal surrounds Alliford Bay, and the low land at its head. On the north shore it stretches north-eastward from , • the point next west of Imago Point for at least three miles, and forms Bare and Tree Islands. Its great spread here is accounted for by the fact that it is undulating at angles not very high. The thickness of Tliickness. the rocks is estimated at about 3500 feet. They are almost exclusively of volcanic origin, though some layers show traces of water action in the rounding of fragments. Some beds may have been flows of molten matter, but most are of a fragmental character, either agglomerates or tufaceous sandstones, of greenish, greyish, brown or purple tints. Lithologicai On the east end of Maude Island, and near Leading Island, some fragments are foui- or five feet in diameter. The material is almost everywhere predominantly felspathic, and some specimens resemble typical porphyrite of rather coarse grain. At the east side of the point north of Alliford Bay, hard dark tufaceous sandstones are found graduating into agglomerates, some of which, however, have their fragments so well I'ounded as to bo more appropriately designated r ) -i" mi ' i - Ld 70 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Fossils. Bods Enst of Alliford Bay conglomerates. Many layers hero become calcareous from the inclusion of organic remains, of which some arc evido.itly shellb, though too poorly preserved for recognition, except in the case of one or two specimens, which appear to be Ostrea'. / Subdivision E. E. Lower Sandstones. — Subdivision E. underlies the last. Near the centre of the south side of Maude Island a small area, which is supposed to represent the i-ocks of the Triassic, is fouri. Westward it appears to be limited by a fault, but eastward it is ovei'lain by a small thickness of bods partly of a tufaceous character, but containing also ordinary sandstones, which in some places include calcareous layers with many fossils. These, while in some cases specifically identical with those of Subdivision C, include a few species not yet found in that part of the section, and thus present a general /actes somewhat different from it. On the east side of South Bay, similar rocks are again found intervening between those of sup- posed Triassic age and subdivision D. East of Alliford Bay a break in the section occurs, in which the junction of D. and B. is concealed, but beyond it, and apparently di})- ping conformably below D, arc greenish, ashy sandstones, interbedded with shales, and pretty closely resembling the rocks of the two last- mentioned places. Following the shore eastward, the section is not continuous, but the beds above described might be supposed to overlie a great series which is frequently well exposed on the beach for a distance of three and a half miles, beyond which the rocks are concealed by the superficial deposits of the flat land about Spit Point. East of the greenish ashy sandstones and shales first described, this series con- sists of dark shales, more or less arenaceous, and a groat thickness of massive or thin-bedded sandstones, with occasional layers of well round- ed conglomerate and frequent zones characterized by large calcareous nodules. Toward the base, fragments of coal, produced fi'om drift wood, are frequently imbedded in the sandstones. With the exception of these conglomerate layers, the series so much resembles that of subdivision C, as represented on the north shore of Bear-skin Bay, that it is probable it belongs to this subdivision. The fossils found, though not very numerous, also seem to resemble those of C. It is therefore supposed that a fault, with about the position marked on the map, crosses the mouth of the inlet east of the Alliford Bay synclinal, and by an exten- sive downthrow to the east causes the repetition of the lower shales, which, between the line of the fault and eastern end of the section, must be represented in nearly their entire thickness. The thickness of the entire series of rocks belonging to the long to I ^:t'i ;'t i:^ r. ^« which the ently dip- iterbedded two last- :ion is not to overlie each for a 3 concealed t. East of series con- hickness of well round- 1 calcareous drift wood, Aon of these )division C, is probable h not very ire supposed crosses the 3y an exten- ower shales, the section, ging to the QUEEN CIIARLOTTE ISLANDS. '21 B Cretaceous coal measures of SUidegate Inlet, may thus he given asThieknew of about 13,000 foot, composed as follows:— ?er1e"r""' A 1500 B 2000 C 5000 D 3500 E 1000? 13,000 The fault alluded to in tho preceding paragraphs as the main /awif Main fault, is one which was indicated by Mr. Richardson as ninning from Anchor Cove across to Shallow Bay. It appears again westward on the south- west side of Steep Point, and probably runs on through the hollow which leads from Long Arm to North Arm. In the opposite direction it appears to run north of Triangle Island, to cut off the continuation of the conglomerates north of Burnt Island, to psias between Lina Island and tho north shore of tho inlet, and to strike that of Bear-skin Bay where a sudden change of attitude is found in the beds. At this O'^er faults, fault an extensive downthrow northward haa occurred. A second important fault is supposed to run north-westward across Maude Island, with a downthrow of the strata to the south-west, which accounts for tho sudden disappearance of the beds of sub-divisions D. and E., and the underlying Triassic rocks. Where it cuts tho north shore of Maude Island the beds arc disturbed, and indications of its course are again found near Withered Point. A third fault must run across the south-eastern extremity of South Island, on which the strata have slipped down to the north-west, bringing the bods of Subdivision C. in contact with tho older limestones, (see p. 62 B.) The Co^cgitz Coal Mine. — This mine is situated on that outcrop of Coal mine. Subdivision C. which has been described as running northward from Shallow Bay, and eventually turning north-westward up the valley of the Slate Chuck. The principal openings have been made at a distance ofaboutamile in a north-north-easterly direction from Anchor Cove. The Queen Charlotte Coal Mining Comjiany (limited) was formed in Victoria in 1865 to open up the deposits of anthracite which had been discovered hero, and in the attempted development of the property abu?idinga! largo sum of money was expended between that date and the abandon- ment of the enterprise about 1872. The mine was connected with the coast by a substantial tramway, a wharf and tho necessary buildings for the accommodation of the men erected, with screens and all the appliances for a largo output. It is very desirable to take into careful consideration all tho circumstances which have operated in bringing about the unfortunate suspension of this enterprise, not only in the l!*"'' 72 B OEOLOaiOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. intorost of those who have invoeted money in it, but on account of the importance which would attacli to the discovery of reuUy workable deposits of anthracite coal on the Pacific Hoaboard. ' "- 'f South I'uiiit t^tci'pPoint Fio. 4. Plan or Cowgitz Coal Minb and vicinity, Skidkoate, Showing the Openings Made on the Coal and the Probable Course of the Scam. (The area shadod in broken lines is that occupied by Subdivision D. The area without shading is that of C, overlain by B., represented by dotted shading.) The Plan ba«ed chiefly on measurements made by Mr. Richardson in 1872. Bxsmination Mr. Bichardson at the time of his visit in 1872 enjoyed facilities for son. ** *^6 examination of the immediate vicinity of the mine not existing at present, for during the years intervening a thick growth of bushes and weeds has covered everything, and the various tunnels and open- 1 QDEBN CHARLOTTE I8LANPH. 73 H ings liavo much dotorioratod in condition. I MJinll thoreforo briefly alludo to tijo fucttt estubiished in Mr. RichardHon'.s report, to which reforonce must be miide for the details of his observations.* The position of the coal is best shown in the opening called Hooper Hooper Crock ('reck Tunnel in Mr. Jtichanlson's report, but spoken of as King's nei. Opening and Nicholson's Tunnel in reports addressed to the Company. Tills is situated on the right or west bank of Hooper Creek, where it descends steeply from the ba«e of Mount Seymour befoi-e reacliing the loss steeply inclined valley by which it flows to Shallow Bay. This tuiinel has been driven, according to Mr. Kichardson, in a direction N, 69° W. for 190 feet thi-ough vortical bods of black shale, with clay ironstone. At this point it intersected the coal, and followed it in a bearing N. 53° W., gradually turning to N. 29° E. in a distance of about Apnearanco 450 feet. Whore first struck the coal showed from two to three feet of coal, thick of good anthracite. It increased in a short distance to a total thickness of alx)Ut six foot, in which there wore two veins of })ure coal averaging three feet, and one foot three inches in thickness respectively, but separated by a shaly midrib of about six inches. Towards the end of the tunnel the seam gnulually narrowed, and where the work was stopped Mr. Hichardson could not convince himself that any coal was present, though it is stated in a report made to the Directors in 1869 ^^*J,p'J"^^']l,j that the seam where abandoned had again expanded to a width of one '"«*• foot six inches. Mr. Deans also informs me that by removing the surface covering he has traced the seam, though in a broken and weathered state, some d; stance beyond the position of the end of the tunnel, so that there is no reason to believe that the coal absolutely terminates at this point. This outcrop called King's vein was dis- covered by Mr. King in 1867, and after it had been opened by the tunnel above described, in 1869, about 800 tons of coal were extracted, and a portion of it shipped to Victoria. The anthracite rests either Coal shipped, directly on a tufaceous or felspathic sandstone like that formerly described as characterizing the summit of Subdivision D., or with the 1 intermediation of a thin and irregular layer of compact black shale. It is overlain by similar black shales, which in some places hold abundance of Unio Hubbard.!., and show occasional films of anthracite. The surface Position oi the on which the coal lies has been undulating, and the irregularity of the deposit has been inci eased by subsequent small local disturbances^, evidenced by slickensided surfaces. The beds are now either vertical or slightly overturned. In working in this tunnel the quantity of inflammable gas exuding from the shales was so great as to necessitate the use of safetj'-lamps. In other smaller openings, made lower down jHooper Creek on the same side, no coal appears to have been found, »« • Keport of Progress, 1872-73, p. 57. I: ^18 il' 74 H OEOLOaiOAL SURVEY OP CANADA. though it is to bo preHumod itH horizon was ronchod. Tho larger tunnelH driven westward from RobinHon Crook have not boon carried far enough to Btriko tho Hooper Crook soam. •Openinifion On Eoblnson Crook, joining Hooper Crook from the north-oast, but ■Hol)lnion Creek . , ,,,.?., , , ,, ^ running nearly parallel with it where opposite tho Hooper Crook tunnel, a good deal of work has boon done. In HutehinHon's tunnel, Hituatod about eleven chains north-eastwai-d from the Hooper Crook tunnel, and 430 foot in length, no coal appears to have been obtained, with the exception of a throe inch seam nour its mouth. In three small tunnels made by Mr. Eobinson, at distances of three, nine and eleven chains above Hutchinson's, coal was found. In the first, accoitl- ing to a roi)ort prepared by Mr. Landule for the company, in November, 1869, tho seam wnt. .hreo foot thick ; in the second and third, seven feet, but 'soft,' an expression which seems from the appearance of coal still to be seen on the dumps, to mean that though good anthracite it is completely cru.shod, probably by movement of the strata subsequent to its formation. About thirteen chains below Hutchinson's tunnel, also on the right bank of Eobinson Creek, is Wilkes' Tunnel, said to bo 450 foot long. It appears to have boon driven sufficiently far to intersect tho coal subsequently to bo men- tioned as occurring between Hooper and Eobinson Creeks, and at its end a black shale with TMo Huhbardi, like that seen in the Hooper Creek tunnel, was found by Mr. Eichardsou. Shafts between On the hill between Hooper Creek tunnel and Hutchinson's, three RDbinson small shafts have boon sunk. In one of these good coal occurs, related, , as shown in tho following section by Mr. Eichardt>on, to the neighbour- ing bods. — FIST IN. Coal, good anthracite 6 , Black argillaceous shale 4 6 Coa/, good anthracite, called " the tliree-feet seam" 2 5 Black BTgillaieous shale, with nodules of clay ironstone. . ..... 11 Grey trap, or it may be altered sandstone 8 26 5 The first-mentioned bed is on tho south-west side, the strata being! vertical. In one of the other shafts earthy impure coal was found ;[ in the third little or no anthracite was obtained. Supiyosed It has been supposed that there are in the vicinity of the Cowgitel exIs»onoe of ,,.. „ , i-n- /^ii three Reams. Mino two or three distinct seams of anthracite, that on Hooper Ci'cekl being the lowest, while those opened on to the eastward and northwanij are higher in the series. It appears to me probable, however, thatj with the possible exception of small irregular seams, there is but al single coal-bearing horizon, and that that lies immediately above thej QUKEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 1i B FllT IM. 6 4 6 2 5 11 8 26 5 strata being 1 was found; agf,'lomeratos and fclspathic Handhtoncrt of Subdivision D. Tho coal in Probably but Iloopor Creek tunnel in found turning east, and ])robably bondH round *"'* **""■ ovontually to a south-easterly strike, running to tho trial shafts above described, and then again doubling abruptly on itself, continues up tho south-west side of Kobinson Creek. This structure may be, and prob- ably is, complicated by ismall faults, which dewtroy to some extent its regularity; but by Hupi)()Hing its oxistenco we account readily for tho presence of the peculiar dark argillitos with Unio Hubhardi near tho scam on both Hooper and Kobinson Creeks, the absence of tho so-called threo-feet seam in tho Wilkes tunnel, tho appearance of tho trap-like rock on the north-east of tho coal in the above qiiotod section (this rock Kooming to represent that found on tho south-east side of tho coal on Hoopor Crook), the similarity of appearance and structure in the coal seam in the section and that of Hooper Creek, and other points. In the diagram of tho vicinity of tho coal mine the probable course of the seam on this supposition is indicated, with the areas occupied by Sulxlivisions B., C. and D. From the descriptions above given, it will be evident that tho coal Irregularity of seam is in itself irregular in quality and thickness. This has arisen partly no doubt from tho inequality of the surface on which it has been laid down, but there seems also to have been a considerable amount of movement between the top of tho already hard volcanic rocks of D., and unconsolidated sediments of E., during the flexure of the strata; which, while it may cause the seam to bo very thin or altogether want- ing in some places, may have rendered it extrciacly thick in others. Such irregularity, though to a smaller degree, has been met with in the now well known measures of l^anairao, and if it can once be shown by more extended exploration that the average thickness of the seam is sufficiently great, this will be of comparatively little consequence. I had supposed, before visiting the mine, that the coal might prove Character and to be an inspissated bituminous deposit like the well known Albertite deposit of the of New Brunswick, but which had been more thoroughlj' metamor- phosed. This is not the case, however, and an origin similar to that of ordinary coals must bo attributed to it, though it is probable that the carbonaceous material has, at the time of its deposition, assumed that ■ . pulpy state which has elsewhere resulted in the production of cannel or anthracite coals. It will be observed, however, that with the exception of the beds immediately surrounding the coal seam, the fossils found are marine, and do not indicate the recurrence at different stratigraphi- cal horizons of tho terrestrial conditions which, in the Carboniferous coal formation, has resulted in tho accumulation of many supoiposed coal beds. Many fragments of wood converted to coal occur in the higher membars of the formation, but these have been drifted from the shore ■ili u 76 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. But one coal- and imbedded with sea-shells. We cannot, therefore, in the areas yet known" °"' "examined, look very hopefully for coal seams in any of the beds over- lying the horizon now under discussion. It appears, however, that at the time represented by this horizon the conditions for the deposition of coal were somewhat wide spread. As already mentioned, the charac- teristic massive carbonaceous shales with lenticular seams of anthracite, occur in the same relation to Subdivision D. some miles up Slate Cbuek Creek. Southward they are again found holding anthracite — but, so far as known, broken and impure only — near Salt Spring Bay ; while five and a half miles on a due south-bearing from Cowgitz is situaletl the locality previously described, on the channel which leads to the west coast. Direction Tho definition of the true relation of the coal to series C. and D., as proper for •' T- therexplora- above given, will ]n-ove an important aid in carrying on further explo- rations in this locality. The junction of these rocks is easily traced, though the precise horizon of the coal is often covered by low laml, and it is in following this from place to place, and examining it where necessary by shallow surface work, that the best means of proving the true value of the deposit will be found. Attention may be directed in particular to the thorough exploration of this line on all the little streams flowing into the Long Arm, and also, perhaps, to the cast end of Maude Island. The locality about the Cowgitz Mine is exceptionally disturbed, ; nd this by the duplication of the outcrojis has no doubt caused an appearance of a great quantity of coal, and supplied fragments in abundance to the gravels of the various brooks. It has added, how- ever, to the difficulty of tracing the seam, and greatly hindered its satisfactory exploration by workings. The great degree of flexure and disturbance has also probably caused the more complete altei-ation of the coaly matter forming the seam, but the character of the beds on the Long Arm, while more regular, is such as to show that any coal, even if originally bituminous, would probably there also be converted to anthracite. rompoaiticnof In appearance, the coal resembles the anthracites of some portions of the Carboniferous coal-measures, and in composition compares favor- ably with them. The two following anal3^ses, by Dr. B. J. Harrington are quoted from the Eeport of Progress 1872-73, p. 81. The first is of a specimen from the Hooper Creek tunnel, the second from the so- called three-feet seam. Both were collected by Mr. Richardson. I TI Water 160 1-89 Volatile combustible matter 5 02 4-77 Fixed Carbon 83 09 85-76 Sulphur 1-53 0-89 Ash 8-76 G69 10000 100 00 [•eas yet Jg ovcr- that at position ; charac- thracite, e Chuck —but, 80 y ; while situated l8 to the ,nd D., as ler explo- ly traced, low laml, r it where •oving the lirected in the little e cast end septionally no doubt fragments dded, how- ndeved its exure and tei-aliou of )eds on the coal, even averted to QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 77 B Oil reviewing the appearance presented by the soania, it would Eoonomicvniuo appear that too great dependence has been placed on their continuity** ' ^ eposit. and uniformity, without the necessary amount of preliminary explor- ation to determine these points. The indications were not such as to . justify a heavy exj^enditure in preparing for the shipment of coal, but quite sufficiently^ promising to render a very careful and systematic examination of the locality desirable. Tliis yet remains to be accom- plished, not necessarily by ex pensive underground work, but preferably by the tracing and examination by costeening pits or otherwise of the whole length of the outcrop of the coal-bearing horizon. It is, however, evident that the knowledge of this region so flar obtained affords no ground for the belief that it is equally important as a coul-bcaring district with Nanaimo or Comox, on Vancouver Island, where the conditions suitable to the formation of coal have occurred not only over wide ureas, but at several distinct horizons in the Cretaceous rocks. Cumsheiva Inlet and Coast between Skldegate and Cumshewa. Between Skii'cgatc and Cumshewa the coast being low, exposures Agglomerates are infrcqaent. The rocks seen are agglomerates and tufaceous sand- sandstones'.'"^ stones generally highly felspathic, and associated with some massive felspafhic materials of uncertian origin. These rocll ':i '; ■ M ;■■ Exposures on north side of inlet. Section in the Peninsula. Fossiliferoug locality. Ill 78 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. but found to run out rapidly in both directiocB. These volcanic rocks are supposed to represent those of Subdivision D. of Skidegate. In following the north shore of the inlet, a gap of about a mile now occurs in the section, beyond which the rocks are frequently seen, and sometimes continuously exposed for long stretches between tide marks. To the vicinity of Conglomerate Point they appear to represent the lower shales and sandstones, or Subdivision C. of the Skidegate section. Their general dip is southward, and they lie as a rule at an angle of about twenty degrees, though in several places they are nearly hoii zontal, or slightly undulating, over considerable areas, and occasionally become quite vertical. Owing to the close general correspondence of the direction of the shore with their strike, and irregularities in the rocks themselves ; it was found impossible to arrive at a satisfactory estimate of the thickness of the entire series, though a measui-ement was carried out with this object. It may be stated, however, that this thickness is probably not less than 2000 feet, and may be much more. In their general character the rocks resemble pretty closely those of the same part of the series in Skidegate, but sandstones are here Ies.>i important, and arenaceous shales more largely represented. Many layers are nodular, and in some cases highly fossiliferous, though each nodule does not invariably contain a fossil. In some beds the nodules become large pale lenticular masses of limestone, like those frequently found in Skidegate. A short distance east of the Peninsula })ale yellowish grits, which are supposed to be the base of Subdivision C, are seen. They form a small anticlinal, as shown in Figure 6, and to the south-west are overlain by dark argillites, in some places concretionary and fossiliferous. These appear to be interleaved with one impoi'tant, and perhaps one or more minor sheets of volcanic rock, which seems to be contemporaneous in origin. At the extremity of j the Peninsula the argillites are seen in wide exposures between high and low-water marks, and appear to be folded in a rather sharp synclinal, i though this may be a local disturbance not profoundly affecting tbe| rocks. According to the view taken of it, the thickness of strata shown between the grits and highest argillites, is either 800 or 1200 feet. A mile and a quarter west of the Peninsula, is situated the locality in j which fossils were found most abundantly. Haifa mile further on, a green basic volcanic rock forms alow cliff along +he shore. It is associated with sandstones, and has an appearance of being stratified, which is probably, however, in this instance fallacious, as the rock] seems to be a diorite, and the strata near it are confused. anic rocks mile now seen, and ide marks. )re8ent the te section. m angle of early hori- casionally ondence of ities in the atisfactorjr asurcraeut that this luch more. ely those of re here less ^any layers each nodule iiles become lently found ^wish grils, I., are seen. 6, and to lome places interleaved i of volcanic extremityof oen high and rp synclinal, iflfecting the itrata shown 200 feet, le locality in I further on, a shore. It is I ig stratified, as the rock I QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. ■)ini)j • I >> . / i i «» 79 B u ! i Pf^T .'-''>"'■ '-1= ■■• If! 80 B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. -Conglomerato Point. Conglomerate and lower shales. 1 The littlo promontory of which Conglomerate Point forms the south- ern extremity, is composed of massive conglomerates and coarse greenish-grey sandstones. The conglomerates hold fragments often several inches, and sometimes two feet in diameter of felspathic and dioritic rocks, with occasional pieces of grey sub-crystalline limestone, and argillites and argillaceous limestone of dark colours. These are evidently derived from the underlying Triassic formation, which has been fully hai-dened at the time of the formation of the conglomerate. Some pebbles of shaly argillite wore found to contain fossils. The conglomerates join with the associated sandstones along undu. lating lines, and the whole deposit evidences littoral conditions and the action of currents. These conglomerates probably represent those of Subdivision B. at Skidegate. They form a synclinal, of which the axis runs about N. 40° W., but which appears to be cut off southward by a fault or faults, the downthrow of which has been to the north. On the north side of the conglomerates the lower shales go down with at least the volume above assigned to them as a minimum thickness of the subdivision, but south of the fault they reappear with a visible thickness of only 660 feet. ' This thickness is exposed in a distance of about a quai'ter of a mik>, between the fault at Conglomerate Point and the outer side of the next Unconforumbio point to the south-west. The southern edge of the lower shales is hen- Iwassic ""^^^ found resting uncomformably on the flaggy argillites of the Triassic, and as this is one of the ])laces in which the unconformity between the formations is most dearl}^ shown, a short description of it may be given. The underlying series is exposed for a breadth of 300 feet, and is fouiul to be composed of regularly bedded flaggy argillites, becoming cal- careous in some places. These have a general southward dip at an angle of about 10°, but are somewhat contorted on a small scale. On the north side, a concealed interval of 140 feet intervenes between these and the lowest visible rocks of the overlying group, which arc then found with north-eastward dips at angles of 20° to 30°. They are sandstones, generally soft and rather shaly, and spread over a wide area on the beach, holding large and small calcareous nodules, which arc arranged parallel to the bedding, anil in some cjises contain abundance of mai'ine shells, of which a Leda or Yoldia is the most abundant. The nodules also hold obscure fragments of plants and calcified stems ami twigs of wood, while in the sandstones similar woody fragments have been converted into true coal. This is in some cases evidently in the I form of branches or small trunks of trees, but is also found in rounded " masses, which, it is supposed, may have been derived from partly con- solidated peaty beds of nearly contemporaneous origin. C BOUth- coavse ,8 often Line and nestone, hese are hich han omevatc. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 81 B Fio. 7. Sketch op Overlap of Cbktaceous Sandstones on Triassic Argillitks. a. Cretaceous sandstones. i. Triosaio argillites. sion B. at .ut N. 40° faiilte, the ide of the jme above but south y 660 feet, of a mile, jf the next ales is here le Ti'iassie, between the ly be given- mi is found joming cal- dip at an scale. On les between , which are They are a wide area which are 1 abundance ndant. The ■d stems and ;ments have [ently in the I in rounded ]5artly con- 1 Fia. 3. Details of Junction of Cretaceous Sandstones and Triassic Argillitks. ' ■ ' a. Cretaceous sandstones . b. Triassic argillites. On the south side of the underlying rocks, and resting upon them, Unconforniable sandstones like those just described arc seen at low tide. The beds of both Cretaceous and formations here dip in the same direction and nearly at the same angle, and might be supposed to form parts of a conformable series, but on close examination it is found that the overlying sandstones irregularly overlap the argillites in several places, as shewn in the cut. It is only by accident that they rest for a certain distance parallel to the bedding of the underlying argillites, in the same way that the sand of a modern sea-beach might lie upon and against the sloping broken surface of a bed of rock. It is found that the surface of the argillites is irregular below the sandstones, with pieces of the foi-mer detaching themselves to be- come pebbles. The sandstones also fill irregular channels and hollows in the argillites, the surfaces of which have been completely rounded and smoothed by the action of the waves before the deposition of the sandstones. The lower beds seem to have been in hardness and habit of weathering exactly as at present, and their surface is now being again exposed under the action of a later sea. (See Figs. 7 and 8.) The small area of underlying rocks here seen must have been at the Character of Bca-level at the time of the deposition of the beds above described, and ' was doubtless covered by the succeeding beds of the Lower Shales, which have since been removed by denudation. The beds here found lying upon the older rocks are not, however, probably the lowest of the overlying formation. There has doubtless been a progressive overlap, and in the part of the series here shown we do not find the conditions which have accompanied the deposition of the coal at Skidcgate. If the coal-bearing character of the strata persists thus far southward it is in the lowest beds of the Lower Shales that the seams must be looked for. From this place to the head of the West Arm of Cumshewa Inlet, rocks of the Cretaceous series continue to characterize 6 'i ',•■ ii; 82 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Conglomerate. Bed8>ith Mo notis. the north shore wherever it was examined ; the strike is not far froni parallel with the coast line, being N. 80° W., with the dips generally northward. Between the point above mentioned and Boat Cove a shallow synclinal may occur, which would account for the reappear- ance of conglomerates in the little islands oft' the mouth of the cove. The point of high land which separates the western and southern arms of the inlet may probably be an anticlinal. It is formed, as far as examined, of older rocks. The apex of the point is composed of a hard but much shattered felspathic rock which may be intrusive, while on the south side of the North Arm grey limestones, inter- bedded with greenish altered amygdaloids of the character frequently found in the older or Triassic series of rocks, occur. On the south-east side of the South Arm flaggy argillites occur. They were observed to become conglomeritic in one place with fragments of the underlying limestone, which might bo supposed to show that they belong to the coal-bearing series. They hold, however, the character- ' , istic Triassic Monotis. Near where the south shore of the inlet turns to an east and west course the Cretaceous sandstones again appear wi,lh general southerly dips. , . Aeglomerates. Near the southern entrance point of the inlet, the rocks are greyish or greenish agglomerates, with interstratitied tufaceous beds and sand- stones. The whole not unlike those of the vicinity of Curashewa village. These rocks probably form the clitt' which rises behind the Skedans village, while the little promontary near it is composed of older rocks, much altered locally. A mile and a half south-west of the village, near the bottom of the bay, the southern margin of the Cretaceous is found, though its actual junction with the older rocks is concealed. The lowest bed seen is an agglomerate, comparatively soft, which holds some fragments of flaggy argillite and of the massive grey limestone associated with it. The superior position of this agglo- merate to those which are associated with the limestones, is shown by the fact that the limestone and argillite fi-agments appear to have been fully hardened when included, and moreover, in some places show evidence of water action in rounding them. There are thus in Cumshewa Inlet probably several folds of the Cretaceous rocks, the axes of the flexures lying nearly parallel to the main direction of the inlet. Beds exactly representing those with which the coal occurs at Skidegate were nowhere seen, nor was any indication of the existence of workable deposits of coal in the parts of the series exposed discovered. The existence of several faults, run- ing nearly parallel to the inlet is suspected, though the only one of these actually placed, is that of Conglomerate Point, Folds and faults. ar from eneniUy Cove IV eappear- ,he covo. ern arms as far as Dsed of a intrusive, es, inter- i-equeiitly QUEEN OnARLOTTE ISLANDS. North-western Extremity of Graham Island, and North Island. 83 B On the oast side of tho point east of Pillar Bay, on the north sliore Junction of of Graham Island, tho rocks, which are entirely, or for the most part. Tertiary. of the Tertiary igneous series, are strangely disturbed. They dip at high angles in various directions, and some beds have been shattered ill place. These appearances may indicate the existence of an important fault. West of the point beds of the Cretaceous coal-bearing series are found, and best exposed in the vicinitj' of tho remarkable Pillar Rock. Pillar Rook. This tower-like rock rises abruptly from tho beach between tide-marks to a height of about ninety feet. It stands near the eastern side of tho bay, with no cliffs or other rocks comparable in height near it, though it is sui-rounded by reefs and i-ocks awash, and connected at low water with a little low tree-clad islet, and with the miunland by a spit of sand. It is composed of conglomerate, formed of well rounded but often very large pebbles, dipping S. 43° E. < 45°. The bedding is distinctly seen in the bare sides of the rock, and is also marked by the slope of its summit, which is truncated by a parallel plane. From the Pillar Rock the conglomerates and associated sandstones Conglomerateg. arc frequently seen along tho shore to Parry Passage. Tho conglome- rates greatly preponderate, but are well bedded, and contain layers of thin-bedded sandstones, holding occasional large stones. They resemble pretty closelj' the conglomerates of Subdivision B. at Skidegato, differ- ing chiefly in the abundance of large well-rounded stones, which would appear to indicate a rough shore-line. Tho pebbles are in some cases of grey massive limestone, and of black shaly rocks like those of the Triassic, while dioritic and granitic fragments are abundant. On the east end of Lucy Island and tho reef running off from it, Rock of North eonglomorates, with some shaly beds, are soon. These strike across in' the direction of the Indian village on N^orth Island, and dip off a mass of grey crystalline micaceous trachyte-porphj-ry. On the east coast of Xorth Island, conglomerates, underlain by thin-bedded sandstones and ^lark shaly beds, continue for three miles, when they are replaced by (Tystalline diorite, diftering from the rock of Lucy Island, and probably intrusive and of greater age than the Cretaceous series. The south-west shore of Xorth Island, to about the centre of Cloak Bay, is composed of the Ci'otaceous rocks, bounded to the north-west by crystalline rocks like those just mentioned, of which Lucy Island is also composed. At th(3 cast end of Cloak Bay the conglomerates rise in clifts and rugged pinnacled rocks, against which the sea breaks with great fury in south- westerly gales. The west side of llonslung Covo is of conglomerate, the east of shaly beds and sandstones, which appear to overlie the last. These are again followed in jwcending order by massive conglomerates Island. ■M I it- I BA5 Ij; 84 B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. and sandstones, which, with the exception of a considerable thiclcnes^s of shaly bods north of Lucy Island, continue to the south-east point. South jideof Qn the south side of Parry Passaife, the Cretaceous rocks are found Parry Piishhro, •' ° and Lepas Bay. overlying a rock like that of Lucy Island. The bedded rocks dip of the igneous, but the character of the line of junction is sucn as to lead to the belief that the igneous rock is an intrusion of later date, and has thrust up the strata, acting on them somewhat about the junction. This is also borne out by the fact that no pebbles of the peculiar rock of Lucy Island were found among those of the conglomerates, while diorites like those of the north end of North Island ai'e abundantly represented. In Bruin Bay, rather soft blackish and olive shaly beds occur nearly horizontal in the coves, while the points are of the in- trusive rock. Similar igneous rock is seen on the trail which leads across to Lepas Bay, south of Cape Knox, on the west coast, and appears also to form Cape Knox itself. On the south side of the baj', greyi^^ll, blackish and olive coloured shaly beds like those of Bruin Bay occur, dipping nearly duo south. They wore found in one place to hold thin layers of limestone, which is composed almost entirely of broken shells of Inoceramus, is brown in colour, and gives a slightly foetid odour when struck. These, with some worm-tracks from the same place, were the only fossils found in this area of the Cretaceous. Trachyte. Just beyond the south point of the bay last mentioned, the shales are overlain by a massive grey rock which appears to be in great thickness, rather fine grained and apparently a trachyte. Its junction with the shales is well shown, and seemingly quite conformable. It is probably a part of the series, and is traversed in several directions by jointage planes, and sometimes assumes pseudo-columnar forms, giving rise to the pinnacles and jutting crags by which this part of the coast is characterized . The subdivisions used in describing the Cretaceous rocks of Skidegate Inlet do not seem to bo applicable to those of the north-west extremity of the islands, though it is possible that we have here represented bods referable to Subdivision E. only. The character of the deposit is here pre-eminently littoral, as evidenced by the rough conglomerates. No coal was observed, and the only traces of plants were a few obscure fragments in the rocks of the east coast of North Island. Tertiary. Eocks of Tertiary age, so far as ascertained, occur on Graham Island only. They 'orm the greater part of this island, extending from Skide- gate to Pillar Bay on the north coast, and underlying the low country which forms the north-eastern part of the island probably throughout, though seldom seen where the drift covering is deep. At the heads of General character of rocks. Area of the I'ertiary. ■t:^ "I I ho coast is QUEEN CIIAULOTTE ISLANDS. 85 B JliisHct Inlet volcanic rocks of Tertiary a^e still prevail, and as tho diHtance throiigii to ti)o west coant cannot bo great and no high land iiitorvenes, it is probable that a considerable portion of the shore from Ilippa Island northward is-also characterized by these I'ocks. Though this part of the coast was not examined, tho supposition is further contirmcd by the statement of Vancouver that tho coast to tho north of ilippa Island is less bold and broken than that southward, and by tho fact that I was shown by the Indians a fragment of amber said toAmbor. have boon picked up on that part of the coast. Tho comparatively shoal region to tho north of the island doubtless depends on tho sub- marine extension of the Tertiary, while a great part of the strait between Graham Island and the archipelago fringing the mainland also probabl}' lies over Tertiary rocks. As olsewhoro mentioned, lignite is washed ashoi-e abundantly on the oast coast of tlraham Island. It is not improbable that strata of Tertiary ago maj' undoi-lie a part of Rocks atchin- the coast about Spit Point, to the south of Skidegato Inlet, oi- at least Brook, maj'^ occur at no great distance otf shore; as specimens of lignite are found there on tho beach. On the north side of Skidegate Inlet, how- ever, rocks of this age are found in place about tho mouth of Chin-oo- kun-dl brook, south of Lawn Hill. Tliey ai-e here hard thin-bedded arenaceous clays, grey in colour, and frequently with bedding planes covered with shining micaceous particles. There are also hard, coarse, sandy beds and clayey gravels, holding well rounded pebbles, associa- ted with argillaceous lignite, and including trvxnks and branches of trees Lignite, which are converted into coal-black lignite, though still retaining much of their woody texture. The beds appear on the whole to be nearly or quite horizontal. Opposite Lawn Hill, on tho coast, igneous rocks referable to the Tufaoeous Tei'tiaiy appear, and account for tho existence of this slight elevation. A linograin«d dull greyish-brown basaltic rock, with a thickness of fifty foot or more, is the highest. It appears to be regularly bedded, though this is probably owing to flow structure, and rests upon a great mass of palo-colourod tufaceous agglomerate. This is a soft light porous rock, still in much the same state as at the time of its formation. Drift lignite. It contains occasional small fragments of lignite, and is thus pretty certainly of later date than the oi-dinary sedimentary bods just described. From this j^oint to Tow Hill on the north coast of Graham Island, between Rose Point and Masset, no deposits of greater age than those of the glacial period are seen along the shore. Tho country continues low, and on the beach many fragments of lignite may be picked up. Those have evidently been torn from parts of the bottom which are suiijeet to tho occasional action of the sea during storms. Two varie- ties of lignite are represented, one compact and evidently produced from A 8G B QROLOGICAL SUHVKV OF CANADA. wood ; the otlier laininalod and much Hoftor. This in frequently porforatod by the holes of horintf molluscs. Tow Will. Forming tho bunk of the Ili-ellun liiver at its mouth at Tow Hill, is a dark greenish-brown granular rock prt>bably duloriiic which weathers brown, and is laminated in such wise as to simulate regular bedding. Below high-watei- mark on the west side of tlie ])oint u similar rock is found overlying a small exposure ofjiale grey sandy clay, very hard, and h(dding obscure root-like vegetaltle traces. These rocks pass beneath those of Tow Hill, which presents a cl ill" of over 200 feet in height to the sea, but slopes away more gradually inland. The clilt' display's a mass of columiuir prisms which run with scarcely a break from base to summit. This material is like that just described, but more compact, and less easily attccted by the weathei'. Lignite. At Ya-kan Point one ajid a half miles further west, the next rock exposures are found. The rocks are here sandstones, generally with a calcareous cement, and in somo layers becoming ii-regularly honey- combed and weathering away fast along crack-linos. Pebbles arc abundant in a few places, while other beds contain so much argillaceous matter that they might almost be called shales. Many branches and irregular masses of wood converted to lignite are included. .Some of the bedding planes are covered with obscure vegetable fragments, among which an impression of a dicotylcdinous leaf was recognized. The beds undulate at low angles but have perhaps a general dip inshore. Pieces of lignite are here abundant on the beach, together with agates such as are elsewhere found in the Tertiary volcanic rocks. Nine miles further westward, the intervening bay showing no exposures, Skon-un Point is composed of Tertiary sandstones, which ditfer from any rocks of this age seen elsewhere in the islands by hold- ing marine shells. The sandstones are here again calcareous, grey in colour, and are composed of quartz, felsjjar and hornblende grains, such as might be derived from the waste of dioritic or granitic rocks. In some layers these are crowded with shells, roughly heaped together as jjgjgofiigQj^g. though thi'own upon a sea-beach, but little worn. Underlying the shelly sandstones is lignite, in thick beds, but not so well exposed as to admit of measurement. Though in some places quite black and compact, the general chai-acter of the lignite is not such as to warrant a belief in its value as a fuel so long as good wood can be obtained iu abundance. The matrix being rough, many of the shells collected here are more = ■ or less exfoliated, and consequently present some difficulty in their determination. Mr. J. F. Whiteaves has examined the collection and furnishes a list of species, with remarks, as follows. — FoBsiliferoua sandstones. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 87 B Gasteropoda, MangeliaJ ip. unit. One worn specimen. Te-tiaryfogsllg. A'atia, sp. Unlike any of the living Hpceioa on the N. W. coast. Lumitiaf ip. Test exfoliated. Trochila, or Onlerus Test exfoliated. Crypta adunca, 8by. One specimen ; undiatinguishablo from the living species. Mr. Gabb (Pal. Cal. vol. 2, p. 82,) says that this shell occurs in the Pliocene and Post Pliocene of Cali- fornia. Lameltibranchiata. Sulen, »p. One fragment of a large species. Siliqua — Possibly the young of 5. palula, Dixon. Two examples. Stanlella — Very lilte S. jilanulnta, Con., and S. falcata Old., but smaller than either. Several specimens. Macoma nasuta, Conrad. Two or three specimens. According to Gabb. (I'al. Cal. vol. 2, p. 93) this recent species occurs also in the Upper Miocene, Pliocene and Post Pliocene of Cali- fornia. Mercenariu — Mr. W. H. Dal) thinks this shell Is closely related to his M. Kennicotti, from Alaska. Chione, sp. undt. Two specimens. Tapes staminea, Conrad. The most abundant shell in the collec- tion. It is abundant, in n living state, on the N. W. coast, and Mr. Gabb says that in California it is found in the Post I'liocene, Pliocene and Miocene. Saxidomus, 8pi;cies undistinguishable. The outer layer of all the specimens, which are not numerous, is entirely exfoliated. Cardium, one exfoliated valve. Appears to resemble C. Islandicum. Cardium. Seveml valves of a species, which may be referable to C. blandum, Gld. Area microdonta, Conrad. An extinct species, found so far only in the Miocene and Pliocene of California. Two specimens. Axifuea. Possibly a form of A. palula, Conrad, but barely distin- guishable from the smooth form (var. subobaoleta Carpenter) of the living A. septentrionalis, Middendorf, of the N. W. coast. Four single valves. Throughout the whole extent of the great Masset Inlet, the rocks Volcanic rocks exposed appear to be those of the Tertiary, and, with the excejition of those seen on the Ma-min River, all of volcanic origin. It will be un- necessary to do more than explain their general character. The whole western portion of the tirst expansion of the inlet shows a preponder- ance of dark-brownish or greenish-brown rocks of fine grain, which may be named collectively basalts, though no perfect columnar struc- ture was observed. These are associated with some amygdaloidal layers. Near the entrance to the upper expansion of the inlet, and also at one place on the north shore, a few miles west of the Ain Eiver, ■u-i. .«.^.-'f ^'•f-'*/iiii 88 B OEOLOOICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Banded trachyte Agginmeratef. thoy ni'o UHsociatod with rough agglunionitcH, which, in ono itistaiieo, were noticed to hold fVuginontH up to four foot in diamotor. In Honiarently basalts, but with snuiU glassy-white or yollowlsh felspar ciystals scattered through thorn. They have in some places a peculiar prismatic structure, and may bo nearly horizontal. A heavy sea prevented landing at other points between this and Virago Bound, but the rocks, which continue in almost uninterrupted low ox])Osures along the shore, appear to bo ut the same character. The country surrounding Virago Sound and Nadcn Harbour is Ioav, Rooksof Virago and though rock in place is seldom seen, it is doubtless undei-lain by the Naden Harbour Tertiary. In the bed of a stream on the ca.st side of the harbour rolled piecoh <)♦' lignite abound, and have jn-obably come from some outcrop not far up its course. The point at the extremity of the harbour, and one ]>laco on its western shore, show rock exposures, the material being dark greenish-brown dolerite, not unlike that found near Tow Hill. Near the old Indian Village a closo-graitied grey felspathic poi-phyrite is seen. From Virago Sound westward along the coast to the edge of the Cretaceous in Pillar Bay, igneous rocks of Tertiary age appear to continue uninterruptedly. They are basaltic and dark coloured, or grey and felspathic, and resemble those of the upper parts of Masset Inlet, but become brocciated over considerable artas, forming agglomerates which generally assume a ruddy hue on weathering, and are occasionally worn into fantastic ibrms by the aen along the shore. Glaciation and Superficial Deposits op the Queen Charlotte Islands, with Notes on those of the Coast or the Mainland Adjacent and Vancouver Island. Glaeiation and Superficial Deposits of the Queen Charlotte Islands. We find everywhere in the Queen Charlotte Islands evic' of the Glaciation descent of glacier, ice from the axial range of mountains loward the ""*' Bea, and little or none of the passage across the group of any more ponderous ice mass. Without attempting to enter into the detail of observations, which would bo to outline again the physical features of the region, it may suffice to refer in brief to a few of the more important localities. In Houston Stewart Channel, near the south end of the island, though iU-m 90 B QEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Course of ice in Houston iStt'wart channel. Extent of local glaciers. Glaciation of Skidegate Channel. the mountains in this vicinity are not very high, and do not show any permanent snow, the sides of the valleys, now forming arms of the sea, are everj-where scored and grooved. The eastern end of this channel lies nearly east and west, while that which opens to the Pacific lies south-west ani north-east. At the angle formed by these two the ai-m forming Kose Harbour runs north westward, ending among some of the higher summits. Here the Sodmond River enters, and the rocks at its mouth are found to he glaciated from west to east. The ice has then turned at nearly a right angle following Rose Harbour, and a portion at least of the stream, again changing its direction to east, passed on to the open sea at the outer jioints of the channel. The sides of the channel opening westward to the Pacific are similarly scored. Many of the boulders on the beaches are evidently glaciated, and as they lie in aome places rudely packed together, seem to have been little disturbed since they were deposited there. There is apjiarently a total absence of clay or sand deposits due to the glacial period on this part of the island. The shores are abrupt and the water deep. In Carpenter Bay, next north of Houston Stewart on the east coast, and in many parts of Skincuttle Inlet, similar traces of the passage of ice from the highlands to the sea are again found. They are not con- fined to the narrower channels, but may be traced also in the wide eastern opening of Skincuttle Inlet. In the inlets near Laskeek it was observed that while the marks of very heavy glaciatioi\ were found in their upper reaches, the rocks near their seaward terminations had been lightly shaped only, in most places still retaining the irregular forms due to old sub-aerial weather- ing or to the sea, though rounded off at the corners, tops and sides by the passage of ice. Tliis would show that the glaciers did not for a vei"v long period continue to push out beyond the mouths of these inlets, and enables us to form some estimate of the extent to which other parts of the island were buried in ice. In Cumshowa Inlet ghicial grooving was found as far out as Village Island, near its mouth. North of Cumshewa Inlet (Lat. 53°) the character of the coast changes. It becomes low, is sometimes slioal, and is no more backed by steep mountain slopes. With little exception the ahore continues to preserve this character to the north-west point of the island. The flat beaches between Cumshewa and Skidegate are thickly sti-ewn with boulders, some of which are of great size. In Skidegate Inlet or Channel there is a great spread of sandstone and shales of the coal-bearing series, which from their easily decom- posed character are not suited to preserve glacial traces, but these were nevertheless observed in a few places, and where the channel 1 1 QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 91 B opens westward to the Pacific the ci;}fstallnie I'ocks there forming its sides are lieavily glaciated. Owing to the dense forest covering of the country, sectior.s of the Boulder olar.. clays and sands which rest at least in some of the hollows are seldom found, but in the cuttings made on the road to the now abandoned Cowgitz coal mine, and in the banks of the brook, a true boulder clay, a hard greyish santly material packed with stones and boulders of various sizes, is shown. This is the most southern locality in which boulder clay was clearly distinguished in the islands. The character of the coast between Skidegate and Massot Inlets has already been described in sufficient detail, with the great stretch of flat country which forms the north-eastern part of iTraham Island. The long lines of wasting clifl' on the eastward-facing shore i>resent excellent sections of the deposits of which this low land is composed, and these appear with scarcely any exception to be those of the glacial or even yet more modern periods. A few miles north of Lawn Point, at the entrance to Skide>pata, Chemn. On the Ma-min Eiver, at the head of Massot Inlet, about a mile and Raised beaches a half up the stream and some feet above the present level of high River °"° tide, a deposit similar to that just described forms the bed of the stream, and rises in a bank from six to ten feet above it. The following species of shells resembling those of the last locality were found here. Many of them are imbedded with the valves united, and in some cases the ligature at the hinge has been preserved. Macovia nasnta, Conrad. Saxidomus squalidus, Desh. Taj)es staminea, Conrad. Lucina filosa, Slimpson. In two places the burrows of lithodomous molluscs were observed in other evid- rocks above the present water-line. One of these is in the bay on theuon. east side of North Island, where a dark calcareous shale is affected in this way just above the high-water mark. The second is on one of the Bolkus Islands, in Skincuttle Channel, in an earthy dolomitic limestone eight or ten feet above the tide. The flat land forming the north-eastern portion of Gi-aham Island may bo regarded broadly as a terrace, proving the former presence of the ► >: would probably have been sufllcient to remove it in most places. *; /f When the Strait of Georgia glacier began to diminish, the sea must g^^ at relative- have stood considerably higher in relation to the land than at present, '^ '»'«'»" '«'•'• and the glaciated rock surfaces became covered about Victoria and Nanaimo with deposits holding marine shells. This must have occurred also in the Queen Charlotte Islands, and to this time are doubtless due the clays and sands of the low north-eastern part of ' the islands above described. The material of these must have been supplied from the glaciers of the islands themselves, and added to 1' ^r n (■ 100 B GEOLOOIOAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Submerged hollows. \f-ti Hollow* left by by Jibris from floating ico from tho larger glaciers of the main- gaciers. land, the sea levelling and spreading abroad tho detritus, and pre- venting the formation of any well marked terminal moraines by tho island glaciers. The basins now occupied by tho two expansions of Masset Inlet and by Naden Harbour lie along the border of the high central axis of the iwlands, and are bounded north-eastward by the low plains of drift material. The rocky beds of these depressions may have been shaped to some extent by the ice, but the absence of drift material from their areas, and especially of erratics derived from tho coast of the mainland, which are abundant over the drift-covered region to the north east, are, with their situation, good reasons for supposing that they mark the areas last covered by glacier ice, and from which the ice eventually retreated with some rapidity, leavmg the hollows formerly occupied by it to become first inlets, and then t :;. ; : with increasing elovation in some instances lakes. '["' It is probable that complete explorations will reveal a series of such hollows along the whole eastern flank of the mountain ranges of the islands. Besides those just mentioned, there are two very large lakes on the same line between the upper part of Masset Inlet and Naden Harbour. One of these discharges into the latter, the other by the Ain Biver into Masset Inlet. There is also at least one similar lake between the head of Masset Inlet and Skidegate. None of these have, BO far as I know, been visited by any white man. In Skidegate Inlet and in Cumshewa Inlet, both obstructed at the mouth by bars, and w^ith comparatively shoal water far off shore, while deep toward their upper parts ; we seem to have exactly the same feature, though in a partially submerged condition. Further south, with high mountains rising abruptly from the water, the glaciers even at this period of their decadence must have pushed some distance seaward. There must also have been less material supplied from them, and little from the main- land, owing to its greater distance. In the halibut banks off Laskeek, however, it is possible that traces of the position of the front of tho glaciers ai'e again found. ^Accumulations Jn Hernando and Savary Islands, strewn with boulders and fonned mouth of Bute above at least of stratified deposits, we may have the remnants of a simi- lar sea-modified moraine of the glacier fed by Bute and other neighbour- ing inlets. Features somewhat similar characterize most of the fiords and inlets of the coaat of the mainland, and west coast of Vancouver Island, and though in some instances marine currents may have been efficient in silting up and reducing the depth of the inlets near their mouths, while the upper reaches have remained deep ; it is by no means improbable that moraine accumulations, spread abroad by water beyond the front of the glaciers, may account for this arrangement in many ^9^, ^ QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 101 B main- nd pre- by tho BionB of he high tho low ma may of drift rom the .covered sons for ice, and ', leaving and then cafles. As pointed out elsewhere, most of the inlets, were the land somewhat elevated, would become fresh-water lakes, discharging seaward across a flat or gently sloping border formed of dotrital materials. It is still a question, however, whether the glaciers which have lately occupied these hollows were those of the first period of cold, shrinking back toward the mountains, or whether these depressions may not represent tho beds of the glaciers of the second period, when at their greatest extension. Tho latter is perhaps the more probable supposition, but in either case the final retreat of the glaciers would seem to have been pretty rapid. t • ->a 8 of such res of the rge lakes nd Naden sr by the milar lake hese have, )gate Inlet I bars, and yard their ough in a mountains od of their I must also the main- f Laskeek, •ont of the ind fonned ,8 of a simi- neighbour- f the fiords "Vancouver have been near their y no means iter beyond nt in many ■f ' ■>*.,. *, = ;t8 t ¥'i m QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 103 B APPENDIX A. ON THE HAIDA INDIANS or TBI QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. BY GEORGE M. DAWSON, D.8., A.R.S.M., F.O.S. Tho following account of the Haida Indians is chiefly the result of personal observations during the poi'tion of tho summer of 1878 spent . ,,. , in tho Queen Charlotte Islands, prosecuted during moments not occupied by the geological and geographical work of th« expedition, at the camp fliie in the evening, or on days of storm when it was impossible to be at work along the coast. I am also indebted to tho Eov. Mr, Collison, of the Church Missionary Society, for various items of information, and largely to Dr. W. F. Tolmie, of Victoria, for com- parative notes on the Tshimsians. Mr, J, G. Swan has published a brief notice of the Haidas in the Smithsonian Contributions to Knowledge (Vol, XXI, 1876, No. 267.) This may be consulted with advantage on some points, more particularly on the natare of the tattoo marks of these people. The present memoir is, however, I believe tho first detailed account of the Haidas which has been given, i ... The Ilaida nation appears to be one of the best defined groups of Honoofreniety . -I . , T . ,. . . 1 , ,.«. ofthellaida tribes on the north-west coast. Its various divisions or bands diner nation, scarcely at all in customs, and speak closely related dialects of the same language. They have been from the earliest times constantly in the habit of making long canoe voyages, and taking into account the ease with which all parts of their country can be reached by water, it would indeed be difficult to explain tho slight differences in dialect which are found to exist, but for the knowledge that in former times they carried on, at least occasionally, intertribal wars ; besides con- stituting themselves, by their warlike foreign expeditions and the difiiculty of jiursuing them to their retreats, one of the most generally dreaded peoples of the coast, from Sitka to Vancouver Island. This ' warfare, however, partook of the barbarous character of that of the other American aborigines, and consisted mor« frequently in the 1 .%.■• 104 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Territory. Islands not directly peo- surprise and massacre of helpless parlies, even including old people and women, than in actual prolonged conflict. The original territory of the Haidas, as far as tradition carries us back, is the well-defined group of islandn calleil by Captain Dixon in ITST the Queen Charlotte Islands, but which the people themselves call Hai-daktce-a.^ These islands lie between the latitudes of 51° 55' and 54° 15', with an extreme length of about 190 miles. They are separated by waters of considerable width from the mainland to the oast and from the southern extremity of the territory of Alaska to the north. At the present day, however, people of the Haida stock, and closely related in every way to the tribes of the northern nd of the Queen Charlotte Islands, occupy also a j)ortion of the coast of the southern islands of Alaska, being the south end of the Prince of Wales Archipelago, from Clarence Strait westward, together with Forrester's Island. It has been supposed that from the large islands adjacent to the piedlfrommain- mainland the Queen Charlotte Islands have been peopled, but this is not the case, for the traditionary account is still found among the natives of internecine wars as a result of which a portion of the Haidas of the northern part of the Queen Charlotte Islands were driven to seek new homes on the Prince of Wales group. Their story is borne out by other ':'ircumstances, and the date of the migration can- not be more than 150 years ago. These Haidas living beyond the Queen Charlotte group are generally known collectively as Kai-gani, which name is also among the Indians applied to the country they inhabit. Frequently, among tribes pretty closely related in language, the process of differentiation has gone so far that neighbouring peoples disclaim any community of race, though on comparing their vocabu- laries their national identity becomes apparent. This is not the case, however, among the Haidas, who speak of all the people of their nationality as Haida, adding when necessary the name of the region Inhabited by the tribe. A comparison of the Haida language with those of the other tribes of the coast shows very few points of resem- blance. Physical peculiarities and dress. Build and ap- Physically, the various tribes of the north-west coast differ to some ^^'5^';*''^'''® extent, so that a practised eye may distinguish between them, but the diffei'ences are slight as compared with those obtaining between the coast tribes generally, and those of the interior of British Columbia. The Haidas are, however, markedly fairer skinned than most of the ' On the orthography of Indian words see note in conneotion with the Haida vocabulary. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 105 B people I'ios us xon in nselves 51° 55' ey are to the I to the ck, find I of the of the ,f Wales rrester's t to the it this is oiig the 1 of the ■e driven story is Lion can- ^ond the Kai-gani, try they coast tribes, and possess somewhat finer features. In the coarseness of the mouth, width and prominonceof the cheek bones, and somewhat disproportionately large size of the head as compared with the body, the main departures from ideal symmetry are to be found. The body is also not infrequently long and large as compared with the legs, a circumstance doubtless brought about by the constant occupation of these people in canoes and the infrequoncy of their land excurbions. The hair is black and coarse, and only in the case of ' medicine men ' have I observed it to be allowed to grow long in the male sex. A scanty moustache and beard sometimes clothe the upper lip and chin, generally in the case of old people who have given up the habit of eradicating the hair as it grows. In some instances, and these more numerous than in the other coast tribes, both men atjd women of pre- possessing appearance, and with features of considerable regularity as measured by European standards, occur. The average physiognomy of the Haida shows more evidence of intelligence and quickness than that of most of the coast tribes, an appearance not belied on more careful investigation. I have not been able to discern in their appear- ance anything of that exceptional fierceness said to be characteristic of them by the earlier voyagers, and can only suppose that these statements may have arisen from the more elaborate character of their armament and dress, and the liberal application of pigments to the skin. Many of the Ilaidas are said to be strong and dexterous swim- mers, but I have never seen them exorcising the art, which may probably be reserved for occasions of necessity. They are not long- Disease?, lived, though grey-haired men and women may occasionally be seen. Pulmonai-y diseases accomiianied by spitting of blood, and blindness geneially caused by a species of ojjthalmia, are not uncommon ; and other diseases incident to a life of exposure tend to reduce the terra of life, as they do among all the aborigines of the continent. Besides these, however, and much more fatal, are diseases inti'oduccd among them since contact with the whites. Great numbers of the Haidas, with all the other tribes of the coast, have been cut off by small-pox, both during their periodical visits to Victoria and after their return to their native islands. This disease is with them almost certainly fatal, and I could learn of a single instance only in which recovery had occurred. Owing to the complete demoralization of the Haidas since contact with the whites, and their practice of resorting to Vic- toria and other places, where they maintain themselves by shameless prostitution, venereal dis ases are extremely common and destructive. In di-ess the Haidas, like other Indians, have adopted, so far as costume, thoir means enable them, the customs of the whites, though their costume as a rule might be considered rather scanty, and some of the ii HI Ml 106 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. older people use scarcely anything but a blanket as a protection from the elements. The blanket with these people has replaced the " robes of sea-otter skins" which so much pleased the eyes of the early traders. Dixon's do8- . In Dixon's narrative* (p. 201) the sea-otter "cloaks" axe said to cnption of their ^^ ' oriifinai dress, "generally contain three good sea-otter skins, one of which is cut in two pieces ; afterwards they are neatly sewed together so as to foi*m a square, and are loosely tied about the shoulders with small leather Etrings fastened on each side." The women's dress is more particularly descx'ibed on another page in the following terms : — " She was neatly dressed after their fashion. Her under garment, which was made of fine tanned leather, sat close to her body, and reached from her neck to the ''alf of her leg ; her cloak or upper garment was rather coarser, and sat loose like a petticoat, and tied with leather strings." These extracts both refer particularly to the Haidas, but in the general account of the natives of this part of the north-west coast, the dress of the people is more minutely described in the following para- graph: — "In their dress there is little variety; the men generally wearing coats (such as I have already described) made of such skins as fancy suggests or their success in hunting furnishes them with, and sometimes the loose cloak thrown over the shoulders and tied with small leather strings. Besides this, some of the more civilized sort, particularly those in Cook's Eiver, wear a small piece of fur tied round the waist when the heat of the day causes them to throw their coat aside or they are disposed to sell it. The dress of the women differs in some respects from that of the men. Their under garment is made of fine tanned leather, and covers the body from the neck to the ankle, being tied in different parts to make it fit close ; over this is tied a piece of tanned leather like an apron, and which reaches no higher than the waist. The upper garment is made in much the same manner as the men's coats, and generally of tanned leather, the women not caring to wear furs, as they were always unwilling to be stripped of their garments, which, should they happen to bo worth purchasing, their husbands always insisted on their being sold. Indeed, the deport- ment of the women in general was decent, modest and becoming." Armour. I*^ former days a sort of armour was worn, consisting of split sticks arranged in parallel order and combined with the stronger parts of the hide of the sea-lion. None of those suits can now, however, be found. A cloak or blanket very much prized by the Haidas and called na\in is obtained in trade from the Tshimsians. It is shaped somewhat like a shawl, with a blunt point behind, and surrounded by a deep and * A Voyane Round the Wirldi but more particularly to the North-west CoMt of America. Performed in 1785. 1786, 1787 and 1788, in the King George and Queen Charlotte, Captains Port- look and Dixon. London, 1780. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. lot B 1 from ' robes raders. laid to cut in form a leather .cularly neatly nade of ler neck coarser, t in the oast, the ng para- ;enerally oh skins Rrith, and ied with [zed sort, ied round ,heir coat en differs ,t is made he ankle, is tied a Ino higher ,e manner [omen not gripped of Tchasing, ,e deport- ing." ,pUt sticks larts of the bo found, lied naxin what like deep and It of America. :;apUin8 Port- thick fringe of twisted wool. P^inely shred cedar bark is used as a basis or warp, on which the wool of the mountain goat is worked in. The cloaks are made in many small separate pieces, which are after- Peculiar cloak wards artfully sewn together. The colours of wool used are white, yellow, black and brown, and the pattern bears a relation to the totem, so that an Indian can tell to what totem the cloak belongs. These ,' ' cloaks or blankets are valued at about $30. They are used specially in dancing, and then in conjunction with a peculiar head-dress, which consists of a small wooden mask ornamented with mother-of-peax'l. This stands up from the forehead, and is attached to a piece fitting over the head, ornamented with feathers, &c., and behind supporting a strip of cloth about two feet wide, which hangs down to the feet, and is covered with skins of the ermine. The cloaks are described by the chronicler of Dixon's voyage as " a kind of variegated blanket or cloak, something like our horse-cloths ; they do not appear to be wove, but made entirely by hand, and are neatly finished. I imagine that these cloaks are made of wool collected from ' j skins of beasts killed in the chase ; they are held in great estimation, and only wore on extraordinary occasions." Shred cedar bark, twisted into a turban, and stained dull red with ^^•jj^'^j***''* the juice of the bark of the alder, is frequently worn about the head, more, however, as an ornament than a covering, and apparently with- out any peculiar significance among the Haidas, though with the Tshimsians and Indians of Millbank Sound it is only worn on occasions of religious ceremony, and it would be considered improper at other times. Feathers, buttons, beads, portions of the shell of the Haliotis, with Ornamcntc. the oi'ange-coloui-ed bill of the puffin, are used as ornaments, strung together or sewn on the clothes. The Dentalium shell was formerly prized and frequently worn, but has now almost disappeared. Painting is frequently practised, but is generally applied to the face Paints and only. Vermillion is the favourite pigment, and is usually — at least at the present day — rubbed on with little regard to symmetry or pattern. Blue and black pigments are also used, but I have not observed in any case the same care and taste in applying the paint to form a sym- metrical design as is frequently seen among the Indians east of the Rocky Mountains. The face is almost always painted for a dance, and when — as very often happens — dances recur on occasions of ceremony for several nights, no care is taken to remove the pigment, and most of the people may bo seen going about during the da}' with much of it still adhering to their faces. To prevent unpleasant effects from the sun in iiot weather, especially when travelling, the face is frequently first rubbed with fat, and then with a dark brownish powder made by '■■ A, ;^ painting. Bracelets and bangles. Tattooing. labret. 108 B GEOLOQTCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. roaatiug in tho fire the woody fungus found on the bark of trees, and afterwards grinding it between stones. This soon becomes nearly black, and resembles dried blood. A mixture of spruce-gum and grease, also of a dark coloui*, is used to protect the face in cold weather, while those in mourning frequently apply grease and charcoal to the face. Bracelets beaten out of silver coins are very generally worn by the women, who often carry several on each arm. The custom of wearing several or many polished copper rings on tho ankles and arras was- formerly common among the Haidas and Tshimsians. Those for the ankles were round in section, those for the arms flat on the inner side. In Dixon's narrative "large circular wreaths of copper" are spoken of as being frequently worn, both at Norfolk Sound and in the Queen Charlotte Islands. They " did not appear to be foreign manufacture, but twisted into that shape by the natives themselves to wear as an ornament about tho neck." Tattooing is universally practised, or rather was so till within the last few years, for it is noticeable that many of the children are now being allowed to grow up without it. The front of each leg above tho ankle and the back of each arm above the wrist are the places gene- rally chosen, though the breast is also frequently covered with a design. The patterns are carefully and symmetrically drawn, of the usual bluish colour produced by the inti'oduction of chai'coal into puncture* in the skin. In one instance, however, a red pigment had also been employed. The designs are often hereditary, and represent the totem crest of the bearer, in the usual conventional style adopted by the coast Indians in their drawings. I have never observed any tattooing to extend to the face, where it is commonly found among the Tinneh people of the interior, in the form of lines radiating from the coi'nera of the mouth, on the chin or forehead. Till quite lately the females among the Haidas all wore labrets in the lower lip. Dixon particularly notes this as being the case, though in Norfolk Sound it was only practised by women of I'ank. Dixon further gives an admirable illustration of the Haida labret in the plate facing page 226 of his volume, already several times referred to. A small aperture first made is gradually enlarged by the insertion of lip-pieces of ever-increasing size, till the lower lip becomes a mere circle of flesh stretched round the periphery of a flat or concave-sided labret of wood or bono, which projects at right angles to the plane of tho face. One obtained by Dixon was found by him to measure 3| inches long by 2| broad, which is larger than any 1 have seen. Only among the old women can this monstrosity be now found in its original form. Many middle-aged females have a small aperture in the lip, through which a little beaten-silver tube of the size of a quill is thrust, i QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 109 B es, and ' black, ge, also , while face, by the vearing me was- for thfr lOr side. spoken e Queen ifacture, ir as an thin the are now bove the ees gene- a design, he usual juncture* ilso been he totem the coast tooing to le Tinneh e cornera labrets the case, of rank, labret in referred insertion es a mere cave-sided plane of leasure 3^ en. Only ts original n the lip, is thrust. projecting from the face about a quarter of an inch. The younger women have not even this remnant of the old custom. The piercing of the lip was the occasion of a ceremony and giving I'li-rpinB of lip away of property. During the operation the aunt of ihe child must' hold her. The shape of the Ilaida lip-piece or sto-e was oval. Among the Tshimsians it was more elongated, and with the Stickeen women nearly circular. It was also formerly the custom to pierce the ears in • ■ several places. Three perforations in each ear were usual among com- mon people, but chiefs or those of importance had five or six. These held little ornaments formed of plates of haliotis shell backed with thin sheet copper, or the small sharp teeth of the fin whale. This custom obtains also among the Tshimsians and Stickeen Indians, and the Chiefs Callicum and Maquilla of Nootka Sound, Vancouver Island, are represented with the same adornment in Meares' engraving of them. The septum of the nose is generally perforated in both males and Perforation of females, and was formerly made to sustain a pendant of haliotin shell °°*^' or a silver ring, though it is not now used in this way. No process of distortion of the head or other parts of the body is practised among the Haidas. Food. Like most of the tribes of the coast, the Haidas live principally on fish. The halibut and salmon are chiefly depended on. A complete list of the articles used by them as food would, however, indeed be a long one, as few organic substances not absolutely indigestible would be omitted. The halibut fishery is systematically pursued, and the main villages Halibut fishery are so situated as to be within easy reach of the banks along the open coast on which the fish abounds. The halibut is found in great num- bers in all suitable localities from Cape Flattery northward, but is perhaps nowhere finer, more abundant and more easily caught than in the vicinity of the Queen Charlotte Islands. It may be taken in most of the waters at almost any season, though more numerous on certain banks at times well known to the Indians. About Skidegate, how- ever, it is only caught in large numbers during a few months in the spring and early summer. When the fish are most plentiful the Haidas take them in large quantities, fishing with hook and line fi'om their canoes, which are anchored by stones attached to cedar-bark ropes of sufficient length. They still employ either a wooden hook armed with an iron — formerly bone — barb, or a peculiarly curved iron hook of their own manufacture, in preference to the ordinary fish hook. These implements are described with others in treating of the arts of the Haidas. The halibut brought to the shore are handed over by the men to the "-M 110 B GEOIiOGICAIi SURVEY OP CANADA. Curing the halibut. Salmon. Other fishes. Pollock. women, who, squatted on their haunches, rapidly clean the fish, remov- ing the larger bones, head, fins and tail, and then cutting it into long flakes. These are next hung on the poles of a wooden framewoi-k, where, without salt — by the sun alone, or sometimes aided by a slow fii'e beneath the erection — they are dried, and eventually packed away in boxes for futui-e use. There are no rivers of great size on the islands, but many streams large enough to bo known as ' salmon rivers ' to the Indians. A run of small red-fleshed salmon occurs about the middle of July up some of the lai'ger streams. These answer no doubt to the fish known on the Fraser Eiver as the suck eye, and much prized. They are, however, in inconsiderable numbers, and not much sought after by the Ilaidas. About the middle of August a larger species begins to arrive in great numbers, and this run sometimes lasts till January. These fish when they first appear and are still in salt-water are fat and in good condi- tion. They soon begin, however, to become hook-hilled, lean and pale- fleshed. They ascend even very small streams when these are in flood with the autumn i*ains, and being easily caught and large, they constitute the great salmon harvest of the Haidas. They are generally either speared in the estuaries of the streams or trapped in fish-wiers made of split sticks, which are ranged across the brooks. The various * rivers ' are the property of the several families or subdivisions of the tribes, and at the salmon fishing season the inhabitants are scattered from the main villages ; each little party camped or living in temporary houses of slight construction in the vicinity of the streams they own. It is scarcely necessary to particularize at length the other species of fish used as food, comprising all those abundant in the vicinity of the islands. Trout, herring, flounder, rock-cod, &c., constitute minor items in the dietary. The mackerel and cod are found, but not spe- cially sought after by the Indians, and it is not yet known whether at certain seasons and localities they may be sufiiciently abundant to attract commercial enterprise. The spawn of the herring is collected on spruce boughs placed at low water on the spawning grounds, dried and stored away in a manner exactly simi lar to that practised by most of the coast Indians. The pollock is found on the western coast. It is generally caught in deep water with hook and line, and owing to jts fatness is much prized. The Haidas of Gold Harbour or Port Kuper make an annual business of catching these fish in the latter part of the summer. They extract the oil from them by boiling in large wooden boxes with hot stones, and then skimming it from the surface. The oil is carefully stored away, and used as a condiment to dried fish or berries, instead of the oolachen grease, which by this tribe of Haidas is not much in request. ■, . , < QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. Ill B Both the Haidas and Tshimsians have the custom of collecting salmon Salmon roe. roe, putting it in boxes, and burying these below high-water mark on the beach. When decomposition has taken place to some e:4tent, and the mass has a most noisome odour, it is ready to eat, and is considered a very great luxury. Sometimes a box is uncovered without removing it from the beach, and all sitting round eat the contents. Fatal poison- ing has followed this on several occasions. It is attributed to a small worm which is said at times to enter the decomposing mass from the sou. The Haidas also occasionally allowed the heads of salmon and halibut to lie on the beach between high and low water marks till partly do- composed, when they were considered to be much improved. The dog-fish is very abundant along some parts of the coast, and its Fish yieldinr fishery is jiow beginning to be engaged in. The fish is not eaten by ' the Haidas, but the oil extracted from the liver is readily sold to white traders, and constitutes one of the few remaining articles of legitimate marketable value possessed by the natives. Large sharks abound on the northern and western coasts, ai^fi are much feared by the Haidas, who allege that uhey fL-equently break their canoes and eat the unfortunate occupants. No instance of this kind is known to me, but they fear to attack these creatures. When, however, one of them is stranded, or found from any cause in a moribund state, they are not slow to take advantage of its condition, and from the liver extract a large quantity of oil. The whale and hair-seal (if it be proper w^hajeg ^nd to include these among products of the fisheries) abound in the waters ^^^^' surrounding the islands. I cannot learn that the former were ever systematically pursued as they were by the Makah Indians of Cape Flattery and A^ts of the west coast of Vancouver Island. When, however, by chance one of these comes ashore it is a gi-eat prize to the owner of the particular strip of beach on which it may be stranded. The seal is shot or speared, the latter doubtless having been the primi- tive mode. Both the flesh and blubber are eaten, the Indians comparing the animal on account of its fatness to that — to many of them hypo- thetical creature — from which pork is derived. They speak of it in the Chinook jargon as si-wash co-sho.^ It is interesting to remark in this connection that most of the Haidas will on no account eat pork, for some reason which I have been unable to determine. The oyster is not found on the coasts of the Queen Charlotte Islands, shell fiah. though it occurs in some sheltered localities about Vancouver Island. Clams (Saxidomus squalidm, Cardixim Niittalli, &c.,) however, abound, with the large horse mussel {Mytilus Califomianus) which on rocks exposed to the full force of tidal curreiits attains a great size. These shell-fish of course form a portion of the native diet. They are not * Meaning simply Indian pig. Si-tcaih from French tauvage, Co-iho from eochon. ¥:.'■'''■:■>'' ■ ■:: I , li'T ■' •' gather idantly. A. Mir- for tlie :c has a snesses a (10. Tho )ugh this inds, and se almost oum and ing dulce, ly in tho of tea or Gaultheria ut banks and coast tisherios, which occupy n greater pro])()rtion of the time of the natives than any other single employment. The villages aro thus not intVequently on bleak, exposed, rocky coasts or islands, lhr)Ugh generally jilaced with care, ho an to allow of landing in canoen even in stormy weather. The houses may stand on a flat, elevated a few feet above the high-tide mark, and facing seaward on a sandy or gravelly beach, on which ofv?llnKcs!"'' cmiooH can be drawn up. The houses are arrangeil siile by side, eitlioi- in contact, or with spaces of greater or less width between them. A 8])ace is left between the fronts of the houses and edge of tho bank, which serves for a street, and also for tho erection of the various carved posts, and for temporary rtshdrying Htagos, &c. Here also, any canoes ai*e placed which it is not desired to use for some time, and are carefully covered with matting and boughs to protect them from tlie sun, by which they might bo warped or cracked. As u rough average, it may bo stated that there are at least two carved jtosts for each house, and these, when tho village is first seen fi-om a distance, give it tho aspect of a patch of burnt forest with bare, bristling tree-stems. Tho houses themselves are not painted, and soon assume a uniform incon- spicuous grey colour, or become green or ovei-growii with moss and weeds, owing to the dampness of the climate. The cloud of smoke generally hovering over tho village in calm weather, may scive to identify it. Two rows of houses ai'o occasionally formed, where the area selected is contracted. No special arrangement of houses accoid- ing to rank or precedence appears to obtain, and tho house of the chief may be either in the centre of the row or at the end. Kach house generally accommodates several families, in our sense of the term; Avhich are related together, and under the acknowledged guidance ot' the elder to whom the house is reputetl to belong, and who is really a minor cliiof, of greater or less importance in the tribe — or village- according to the amount of his property and number of his people. In front of one or more of the principal houses ])lattbrms are often found, on which u group of people may bo seen squatting in conversa- tion or engaged in their interminable gambling game. The forest of carved ])osts in front of the village, each of them representing a great expenditure of property and exertion, doubtless presents to tho native eye a grand and awe-inspiring appearance and brings to the mind ;i sense of probably mysterious import, which possibly does not in reality Carved posts' vcH ni'o thou^li I of llio niu a recognised principle of evil, called //ai'-rfe- Power of evil. h'ln-a, a name signifying!; chief of the lower regions. This being is either typified by, or assumes the form of a certain inhabitant of the sea, believed to bo the killer whale (Oica ater). Indians who lose their lives ^,M ■\. 122 B GEOLOQICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. ( I After death. i by drowning arc taken possession of by the power of evil, and are turned into beingH like himself under his chieftainship. Those killed in battle, 01' even non-combatants accidentally killed during a fight, go at once to the country of Sun-l-a-tlai-dus, which is supposed to be a happy region. The spirits of those who die from disease, or in the course of nature, become latent, or pass to an ill-detinod Hades, but are from time to time recovered, returning to the world as the souls of new-born children, generally — or always — in the tribe to which they themselves Transmigration formerly belonged. This new birth may occur in each case five succes" sive times, but after this the soul is annihilated, " like earth, knowing nothing," So at least say some of the Haidas. The medicine-men profess, in many cases, to be able by means of dreams or visions to tell in the person of what child such an one formerly dead has returned — hence a considerable part of the influence they exercise. The Indian informant, already several times referred to, told me that the medicine-man had assured him that his brother had returned in the form of a child lately born. He was in doubt whether to believe implicitly or not. I have been told also of a case at Masset, where an old chief dying .said to those about him that he would return in the form of a child then about to be born from the wife of one of his relatives. He enjoined them to be careful of the child. It would seem also to be believed that before death the soul loosens itself from the body, and finally takes its departure altogether. This, at least, would appear to be implied by the fad that the medicine-men sometimes profess to catch the soul of one about to die. This, however, belongs more strictly to the curative function of the skd-ga. The ofiico of shd-ija, shaman or medicine-man is not, like the chief- taincy, hcreditarj', but is either chosen or accejjted in consequence of some tendency to dream or see visions, or owing to some omen. The would-be doctor must go through a severe course of initiation, lie must abstain from connexion with Avomen, and eat very little ordinary f(wd, and that on\y once a day, in the evening. He goes into the woods and eats 'ineartly dried on the bones, giving it a mummy-like aspect. I mention this fact as it is believed both at Skidegato and Masset, and probably generall}' among the Ilaidas, that the bodies of medicine-men do not decay like those of others, leaving only the bones, but dry up without decomposi- tion. In this particular case, it is said among the peo]>le of the tribe that if anyone looking at the dead man should see a skeleton only, ho or some of his near kinsfolk will surely soon die, whereas if Hesh is seen the omen is propitious. Uon!"'' *"''*"" ^^ anothei- ska-tja entombed near the Skidegate Village, I was told by a Haida that on one occasian he was returning to the village, about twilight, when, on looking to where he knew the tomb to bo, he saw the shd-ga himself, standing erect with his medicine rattle in his hand. My informant was much frightened, and on getting to the village told the people what he had seen, causing no small commotion among them, for the apparition was universally accepted as an evil omen. Shortly afterwards his wife, brother, brother's wife, and two sisters went, with others, to Victoria, and all taking small-pox died there. A medicine-man is entitled to take from the grave of his predecessor any of his peculiar properties. The ])rivilege is, however, not always or immediately made use of, and it may probably be necessary to wait for some dream or omen before doing so. a^wmd***'"" ^^^ '^^^^ following method of procedure to obtain a fair wind, though not confined in practice to medicine-men, but known to most of the liaidas, may serve to show the childish nf»tuie of their mystery performances. An Indian fasting, shoots a raven, quickly singes it in the fire, and then going to the edge of the sea, swoops it four times on the surface in the dii-ection in which the wind is desired. He then throws it behind him, but afterwards picking it up, sets it in a sitting posture at the foot of a spruce tree, facing toward the required wind. Prop- ping its beak open with a .stick, he then requests a fair wind for a certain numbei* of days, and going away lies down and covers himself up with his blanket, till a second Indian asks him for liow many days he has required the wind, to which question he answers. ^PT^^ QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 125 u id the round, •ci'ully which I stick, knees or pro- d have part of y dried nis fact •uerally ?ay like omposi- he tril)e only, ho tlesh is tvas told ro, about ), he Haw his hand, lage told h among il omen, sisters here. decessor )t always to wait ough not llaidus, •mances. lire, and u surfiKO hrows it f posture i. Prop- iid for a rs himself nany days Thei-o are among the noighbonring Tshimsians four 'religions,' orReiiBion,s systems of rites of a religions character. These have no relation tOT^msian*. the totems, but di;ide the tribe on different lines. They are known as (1) Sim-ha-lait, C>) Mi-hla, (3) Mo-hlem, (4) Hop-pop. The first is the simplest and seems to have no very distinctive rites. The central tiguro of the worship of the second was at Fort Simjison a little black imago with long hair known as " the only one above." The third arc "dog- Rites nmi eaters," a portion of their rite consistijig in killing and cutting, or tear- ing to pieces, dogs, and eating the flesh. They eat in reality, however, as little of the flesh as they can. quietly disposing of the bulk of it when out of sight. The hop-pop or " cannibals " are those who, in a siate of real or pretended frenzy, bite flesh out of the extended arms of the people of the village as a part of their rite. When they issue tbrth for this purpose they utter cries like hop-pop — whence their name. On tluK sound being heard all but those of the same religion get out of the way if they can, frequently pushing off in canoes foi* this purpose. Those of the .same creed, and brave, resolutely extend their arms to bo bitten. A man may belong to more than one religion, and is in some cases even forced to become initiated into a second. If, for instance, one should pass where dog-eaters are holding a solemn conclave, he may bo seized and initiated as a dog-eater nolens volens. Great hardships are sometimes endured during initiation. The more savai^e religions Deception, pretend to mystei'ious sujiernatural powers, and go to great pains sometimes to delude the common people, or those of other creeds. At Port Simpson, for instance, a young chief was on one occasion care- fully buried in the ground beforehand. When discovei'ed the opera- tors were pulling at a rope, and were supposed to be drawing the chief underground from the back of an island some way off. The rope after a time breaking, great apparent excitement occurs among the opera- tors, who say the chief is now lost, but catching sticks begin to dig in the ground, and soon unearth him to the great amazement of the vulgar. In this case, however, the cold and cramped attitude so iitfected the chief that he was lame for life. They instil the truth of such stories especially in the minds of the young, who firmly believe in them. At Foi-t Simpson, in former days, the}- have even got up such things as an artificial whale, in some way formed on a canoe. This appeared suddenly on the bay, seoiuingly swimming along, with a little child on its back. Potlatch or distribution of property. The distribution of property, or potlatch as it is called in the custom wiJe- (.'hinook jargon (Ilaida, Idc-is-hit), implying, as it appears at first sight,''""®" " such entire self-abnegation and disregard of the value of slowly accu- m ^E^ ■.4 Ti 126 B Method of dis- ' tributioii ui . iiroperty. Occi^ions on which practiS' «d. UEOLOOICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. 4 mulutod wotilth, rcquiren some oxplaimtion. The cuntoin thuw named is very widoly ispi'oad, oxtonding iiol only to all tho coast tribos of Bnti(
  • Ska-dul and Kwai-o-guns-o lung. •I 4 best clothes he may hnppun to huvo, and on his head an oniamenl made of the stout bristles from the whiskers of the sea-lion. Thosi' are set upright in a circle, and hotwcan them feiithor-dovvn is hcaj)od, ■which an ho moves is scattered on all sides, tilling the air and covering the spectators. He dances in the usual slouching way common among the Indians, bending his- knees, but not lifting his feet far from tlio ground. The people, sitting around in the tire-light, all sing, and thi> drum is continually beaten. This dance may last hull' an hour or an hour. 2. The dance distinguished as Ska-dul, appeai-s to be merely the beginning of that known as (3) Kwai-o-f/uns-o-lunij. Any man who knows the mode of singing starts the dance alone, M'hen it is called Ska-dul, soon others join in, and it becomes No. 3. This is performed by no particular number of people, the more the better, and occurs only when a man desires shortly to make a house. The man himself does not dance, nor does any giving away ol property take place. The women occupy a prominent place in this dance, being carefully dressed with the little mai'ks and na-xin or cloaks previously described. One man performs on a drum or tamborine to which all sing, or grunt in time, shuffling about with a jerky motion as they do so. There is a master of the- ceremonies who leads off the chorus. Eattles are freely used. The song is in praise of the man who intends to build, and also of the dancers. It eulogises his strength, riches, and so on, and is in the Tshimsian language. Ka-ta-ka-gun. 4. Ka-ta-ka-guii. This is performed by the male relatives of a man's wife, and takes place when a house has boon finished, the owner at the same time making a distribution of property. The dancers are attired in their best, ornamented, and with faces painted, but no birds'-down is used. It is performed iij the newly fini.-died house, and may occupy half an hour oi- an hour. The man who makes iho distribution does not dance. All sing in the Tshimsian language. 5. Ska-rut. One man performs this dance, but is genei'ally or always paid to do the duty for the person more immediately concerned. It takes place some days before a distribution of propert}-, on the occasion of such an event as tlie tattooing of a child or death of a relative or friend. The dance is performed by a single man, naked with the exception of his breech-cloth. In the first part of the dance, which appears to be intended to simulate a sort of possession or frenzy, one of the grotesque wootien masks is worn, and this is the oidy dance in which they are used. The wearing of the mask is not, however, abno- lutcly necessary, but is a matter of choice with the performer. Getting heated in the dance, he thi'ows the mask away, snatches up the first dog he can find, kills him, and tearing pieces of his flesh eats them. Ska-rut. Mask. QIEEN CIIAIU.OTTE IMLAND8. 129 M iMinment 'hesc lire honpod, covering n among [Voiii llu' , and tha ur or an sroly tlie nan who is called formed by tiurs only mi^olfdoos ace. The ly dresHcd bed. One r grunt in rhere iw a tat ties are B to build, and 80 on, of a man's ner at the attired ds'-down ay occupy itiori does or always rncd. It occasion dative or with the ICO, which izy, one of y dance in over, abso- Getting ip the first eata them. This dance i.s not portormed in the houso as tho others are. but at largo through tlio village. The usual present tarifl' for tlio perforniance of the ceremony is about ton blankets. On enquiring what the I'eelings of the nuin might bo whose dog was devoured, I found that afterwards the dog is nppi-aised un< paid for to the satisfaction of all parties. This is characteristic of the manner in which, among the llaidas themiselves, the principle of nothing for nothiiig is strictly carried out. 6. Ifi-atl. This (hincc is very fro(iuontly indulged in, and is on occa-IIl-atl. sion of any joyful event, us the arrival of visitors, &(\ It is performed by several or many men, who wear feathers in their hair ami paint their faces. The Ilaida language is used in the song. No distribution of ])r(>perty ha])pens, except in the case of the dance being to denote the conclusion of mourning for a dead friend. In this instance a potlatch occurs by the former mournor, who invites his friends together to dance with him. (Jambling is as common with the Haidas as among most other tribes, Gambling, which means that it is the most popular and constantly practised of all tiieii' amusements. The gambler fi-Cipieiitly loses his entire property, continuing the play till ho has nothing whatever to stake. The game generally played I have not boon able to understand clearly". It is the same with that of most of the coast tribes, and not dissimilar from gambling games played by the natives from the Pacific coast to Lake Superior. Sitting on the ground in a circle, in the centre of which n clean cellar mat is spread, each man produces his bundle of neatly smooilied sticks, the values of which are known by the markings upon them. Tlie}'^ are shuffletl together in soft teased cedar bark, and drawn out by chaticc. Social customs. Some points connected with the social relations of the llaidas have already been touched upon, others may be noted hero. A man wishing to marry, informs his mother on what girl his heart Marriage. is fixed, and she, going to the mother of the beloved one (sweetheart or ka-ta-dha), endeavours to arrange the match. An understanding having been arrived at, the man, when I'cady, invites his friends to accompany him, and going together to the house of the girl's parents, they enter, and sit down around the fire, beside which the girl and her friends also are. The young man's friends then speak in his favour, recommending him to the father of the girl, and praising his good qi'.ulilies. When the talk is finished, the girl rises, and going to where her would-be husband is, sits down beside him and takes his hand. The ceremony is then complete, and tlio father of the girl gives 9 ■■ill 130 B OEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Polygamy. N Training of girls. various avtiolcs of pvopei-ty to Iior, constituting iicr dowry. She is led away hy her husband, Imt after a time returns on a visit to her parents, bringing presents, genei'ally of food, from her husl)and. Marriage is eontiaeted earl}-. Polygamy is practised, but not extensively; it was formerly niojo usual, but was always mainly or entirely oontinod to recognised chiefs. I ecnld hear of but a single instance in which a man yet lias two wives. This case is at Slvitlegato. Three or four wives were not uncommon with a chief in former da\'s, and it was told to me as a tradition by a Ilaida that a Tshimsian chief at one time had ten wives. As the women do not contribute materiall}' to the support of the family, attending only to the accessory duties of cui'ing and preserving the tisli, it is probably difficult for a man to maintain many wives. The women appear to be well treated on the wliole, are by no means looked ujion as mere servants, and have a voice in most mattei-s in which the men engage. Children are desired, and treated as well as the mode oi life and knowledge of the Haida admits. Very few child."on are now, however, seen about some of the villages, the wcmien resorting to Victoria for purposes of prostitution. Their husbands, be it said to their shame, frequimtl}' accompany them, and live on their ill-gotten gtiins. It is said that in the early days of their contact with the whites, the Ilaidas were distinguished by good morals. If so, they differed from raost of the coast tribes, among whom great laxity has always prevailed. Female chastity is cei'lainly not now prized. When a girl is about to reach maturity she must attend to various ceremonies, and jiass through certain ordeals. It was the custom that she should wear a peculiar (doak or hood at that time for several months, or even half a 3X'ar. This was made of woven cedar-I)ark, nearly conical in shape, and reached down below the breast, though open before the face. It was, 1 believe, called /;ijxe. The face was painted witii tlie powdered fungus already alludeil to, and fasting more or less severe was practised. It was also customary to screen olf a corner of the lodge and give the girl a separate lire, and allow hei- to go out and in l)y a separate dooi- at the back of the house. This was connected with an idea of ceremonial unideanness. Did she require to pass out by the front door, it was necessaiy lirst to remove all the arms and various otlier things. In meeting mt-Uithe face was lo be (piickly covered with a corner of the blanket. These or othei- similar customs wer<> also in vogue among the Tshimsians, Avhose practices so closely i-esemble the llaidas in most respects. Among these people great cai'C was taken to teach the girls submission, contentment, and industry. At certain times they were not allowed to lie down to sleep, but if overcome with drowsiness must prop themselves in a sitting posture e is led )a"cnts, mt not. uinly 01- 11 single idegate. icr duys, an (-'hief aleiially duties of n\an tu il on tlio 1 have a (li-en are o-o of Il>e lOut sonic irposcs ot Vequently id that in ithis Avere ost of tlie Female to various iisloni that 'or several 'cdar-l)ai'k, st, though face was [sting n\ore •rccn I )ll" a lllow her to This \va> re(iu ire to dl the arms llO ([U leKi liar custom-' so closely great care d industry. Ileep, hut il' QUEEN CIIARI.OTTE ISLANDS. 131 B ing po; ,(ure hetwecn boxes. Before drinking, tiio cup must lio turned round four times in the direction of movement of the sun. It was aiso usual foi- the motlier to save all hairs combed ont of the head of the girl, and twist them into cords, which wore then lightly tied round th<' waist and ankles, and left there till they fell to pieces of themselves. This was supposed to give a fine sliai)e to the body. In eating, th<' girl must always sit down, to ])revent a too great corpulence. If orphaned the various ceremonies must be again perfoi-med by the girl, even though ali-eady all attended to. Among the Tshiinsians peculiar cei-emonies exist in connecti(m with Tshimsian the ' bringing out ot young men and women, and it is an occasion of public feasting. In the case of a young woman, the people being all collected, a curtain is raisetl, and she is seen sitting with her back to the spectators, peculiarly dressed, and surrounded by a cii'cle of upright 'coppers,' if enough can be mustered. She then begins to sing, or, if she does not, an old woman begins to sing near hei', and she becoming encouraged joins. The old woman then gradually drops her voice till the novice is singing alone. She then eventually makes a dance before all the people. The songs and dances are practised before the time for the rite arrives. Similar customs probably exist among the llaidas, though I did not learn any details concerning them*. With the llaidas a tirst-born son may be called by the name of the Naming a son. mother's eldest brother, the second-born after the mother's second bro- ther, or by one of the additional names of the first. Should the mother have no brother, the name of some dead friend is chosen, or in cases where the i.iCdicine-raan reveals the I'cturn of some one formerly dead ill the new-born child, the name of the person supjiosed to be thus returiiiug to the tribe takes precedence of all (jthcrs. A chief's son is named by its mother after consultation with a niediclne-man, whom she pays. He takes a night to think, and mayhap dream, about it. Therc- iil'ter he gives the name of a deceased male relative on the mother's side, which is adopted. The ci'remony of naming is witnessed by Stages in ad- many, and presents are given. A sister of the father's holds {he child hood. when named, and becomes its 'godmother' afterwards. For this she receives presents from the father, and from the boy himself whefi grown up if she has used him well. The next ceremony i» that of piercing the lobes of the ears and septum of the nose, wdien gifts are again distributed, the godmolhor-aunt coming in for a got.d share. Four times in all a youth changes his name, always taking one from his mother's family. A potlatch and tattooing of the j'outh takes piaci' on each occasion except the first, Avhen the lattei" is omiited. Also a house-building bee. On the last of these occasions the young :|:1.■^^| ;• I .< ■ ■" 132 H GEOLOGICAL SUKVEY OK CANADA. ifisim P m niiiii is aided by las mother's people, maUcs the pothitoh from his own hou>e and in his own l:is.t-adopted name. Daiu'in/;' and singing are in order at all potlatuhes. Tlie first house-building is called tux-kuxo. The second hi-au-ni-gcxa. The third xti^hl. The fourth tlo-xo-kU-iU. Slavery. Slavery is intimately interwoven with the social system of the Ilaidas, as with that of most of the tribes of the coast. Slaves were formerly common among them, expeditions being undertaken — espe- cially northward to the countiy about Sitka, wiiei'e the totems aro ditVcrent — for the special purposes of securing slaves. The intertribal wars along the coast have now ceased, however, and such piratical expeditions have also been abandoned owing to the wholesome dread of gunboats. Slaves, in consequence, are becoming scarce, and the custom is dying awa}'. A slave is called elaidi in the Ilaida language. They appear to have been formeidy under the absolute rule of their respective masters, and were sometimes cruelly treated. In some cases a slave has been killed to bury beneath the corner post of a new house. They are veritable hewers of wood and drawers of water. They can be sold, and arc supposed at the present time to bo worth about two hundred blankets each, the price having risen owing to their scarcity. Children born of slaves are also slaves. One slave still remains among the Gold Harbour Haidas. There are none at Skidogate or other of the southern villages, but a consid- erable number at Masset and the northern villages. Slaves sometimes regain their freedom by running away, but should they return to theii' native place are generally so much despised that their lives are rendered miserable. When a man falls sick it devolves upon his brother to call in the medicine-man, and also to invite the friends to the house of sickness, and provide them with tobacco to smoke. The house is thusgenei'ally full of sympathising Indians, with smoke, and the noise of the medicine-man's performances. Should the sick man die, the body is generally enclosed in a sitting posture in a nearly .square cedar box, which is made for the purpose b}' all the Indians conjointly; or, if they do not wish to make it, they subscribe to purchase from some one of their number a suitable box. The cotiin-box being the same in shape as those used for ordinary domestic pui'poses, there is generally no difliculty in securing one. In either case the bi-otiier, or other near relative of the deceased, makes a i)ollatch, or distribution of property, to repay the others for theii- labour or expense. Entombment. J*'"' "I'vn of ordinary reputation only, dies, his body (tl-kO-da) is imt at once info the coffin-box {sa-f(ini/-un), and is then stored away in the tomb-house (m-tlinij-iin-n money, and selling them out again as required. Biaid 1'V-'. Human and bird masks. Rattles. 138 B GEOLOaiOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. represent hiimiin fiicos, the kocoikI those representing birds. Figuro.s 1, 2 and 3 represent the tirst ehiss, Fig. 5 the second. They are carved in wood. Tliowe of the first chiss are usually large enough amply to cover tlio face. In some cases they are very neatly made, generally to re])i'esent an ordinaiy Indian type of face without any ,i;rotesc[ne idea. The relief of tiie work is generally a little lower than in nature. Straps of leather, fastened to the sides of tlie mask, are provided to go round the head of the wearer, or a small loop of cedar-lmrk string is fixed in the hollow side of the mask, to he grasped liy the teeth. The top of the forehead is xisually fringed with down, hair or feathcrr-. The eyes are pierced to enable the wearer to look out, and the moutii is also often cut through, though sometimes solid, and representing teeth. Grotesciuc masks are also made in this style, but none weie observed to have a smiling or humourous expi'cssion. The painting of the masks is, according to tiiste, in bai-s and lines, or the peculiar curved lines with eye-like ovals found so frequently in the designs of the coast Intlians. The [)ainting of the two sides of the face is rarely symmetrical, a cii'cumstance not arising from any want of skill, but intentionally bi'ought about. Of the second class of masks, representing birds, there are various kinds. One obtained at the Klue Village had a beak five or six feet long projecting from the centre of a mask not much unlike those above described. The l'(>ak was painted red, and the whole evidently intended to I'epi-esent the oyster- catcher common on the coast. Another mask represents the head ot a jiutfin, (Fig. 5) and is very well modelled. It is too small within, however, to allow the head to enter, and must have been worn fixed to the top of the head. Rattles are also used chiefly in dancing. 1'hese are of two principal types. First and most usual are plain sphcroiilal or oval riittles, gene- rally considerably flattened in sha])e. They are carved in wood willi great neatness, the wood being sometimes reduced to a unifoi-m ami very small thickness throughout. Each is made in two pieces, which are fixed together genei'ally by small thi-eads of sinew pa-seosed of two pieces. In describing the performance of the medicine-men (^p. 123 B.) a Medicine- peculiar charm, or implement by which the departing soul may bo '"''"'' °'"*'''"- caught and perhaps i-eplaced, was referred to. This is made from a piece of bone, which from its size and general shape might be part ot a human femur, but may possibly be that of a bear. This bone is pared down so as to have an almost perfectly symmetrical form, the ends being somewhat more expanded than the middle. A human face, often grotesque, ornaments the centre of one side, the remainder of a human figure being sometimes carved so as to extend round over the back in a more or less cramped attitude. The ends are slit, the slit in each instance jiassing through both sides of the bone, and repre- .sonting the mouth of a creature the eyes and nostrils of which are rudely indicated in a conventional manner above. The upper side of the bone is pierced by a couple of holes for its suspension over the breast by a string which passes round the neck. A few small holes, probably for the at tachment of tassels or other little ornaments are some- times made in the lower side. Some examples are neatly inlaid with fragments of haliotis shell. The dimensions of two good specimens are, Xo. 1— Length (]§ inches; vertical diainetei' in centre, 1 inch, horizontal diameter, § inch ; vertical diameter al ends, l^inch; hori- zontal diameter at one end, 1 inch, at the other, |- inch; depth of slit at ends, H; inches. No. 2 — the dimensions in the same order, TJ; 1; li If; Ij ii H iuchos. The first of these is that re^jresented in figure 28. 140 B OEOLOOICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Bono orna- luents. Bono ])ins, mores or loss ciircfiilly carvod, iiiv used by the mcdieii\t'- moii to sociirc the knot into whii'Ii tlioy tio iij) their hair; and pieces of bone carvod to represent whales, birds, human li^ures, or combina- tions of tliese aro not nnfreciuontiy found, tiiouii;h now seldom worn. They served formerly for ornaments, some of the smaller boinsj; proba- bly ear-rings. Speaking doll. A peculiar aixl very ingenious sponking doll was obtained at Skide- gate. This did not soom to be a mere toy, but was looked upon as a thing of worth, anit had previously been used, in all prt)bability, as an imi^ressivo mystery. It consisted of a small wooden head, MJ inches high by 2A inches wide and 2 inches dce])from back to front, composed of two pieces ot wood Iiollowed till quite thin, and the front one carved to re])rescnt a grotesque face, with a largo round open mouth with projecting lips. The two wooden ])ieces had then been neatly joined, a narrow slit only remaining within the neck, and .serving for the passage of air, which then impinging on a sharp edge at the back of tlie cavity repi'osenting the mouth, makes a lioUow whistling sound. To tlic neck is tied the oritice of a bladder, which is filled with some loose elastic substance, j^robably coarse grass or bark. On s(iucezing the bladder sharply in the hand a note is produced, and on relaxing the pressure the air runs back silently, enabling the sound to be made as frequently as desired. ^lost of the ordinary household utensils are made of wood, or rnthcr it may be said wore so made, for at the ])rescnt day tin and cheap earthenware dishes are rapidly su])orseding those of native manufac- ture. Several distinct types of wooden dishes may be distinguished, and these appear to have been followed Ity the maker with little variation except in tho detail of ornamentation. One form, used to hold berries and other food, is a tray of oblong outline, the length being about one and one-third times the width, and the depth eompai-atively small. These are cut out of solid wood, the edge being slightly undercut within, and the bottom within rounded though externally angular. The outer ends are genei-ally the sides occasionally ornamented by incised carving or painting. The edge is frebacco, now seem to be little if at all used for any purpose. They are genei'ally circular in outline and without ornamentation, being in some cases very roughly made. Other examples are ornamented by carving. A plain circular mortar of rather greater size than usual was found to have a width of 0^, a heighth of Gh, and an internal depth of 41 inches. A second (Fig. 15), caiwctl externally to represent a frog had, disregarding the projecting points of the carving, the following dimensions, in the same order as above, — Gi; 5^; 3^ inches. One moitar of an oval form, with projecting carvetl ends, was seen (Fig. 11). It j'cprc- sents a frog or some large-mouthed kind of tish like a cottus, but the design is comj^licated by the introduction of a human face near what shouhl the hinder end of the animal. The extreme length of this mor- tar is IC^ inches, the width at the middle 8 inches tapering a little from the head to the tail, and the height at the middle, which is nV^O* '^.^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) // ^ S^^^ 1.0 1^ 1.25 |J0 1^^ 2.2 12.0 U 11.6 ^ iV ■1>^ :\ \ V «? ^ % 142 B OEOLOOICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Horn dish. Ladles and spoons. Knives. IIoutfBhold boxes. slightly lower than the ends, 5J inches. The dimensions of the interior hollow of this mortur are 8 by 5J, an 3:1- in^^hes deep. Another stone utensil obtained at Skidegate is a dish lor preparing paint. This is 6 inches long by 2|^ wide, in external dimensions, with a trough- shaped bowl 4J by IJ inches, in which the paint has evidently been ground by rubbing from end to end with a second stone. When laid with the hollow side downward, the exterior is found to be carved to represent some animal, probably a frog, in a constrained squatting atti- tude. The carved side is represented in Fig. 12. Shells, especially those of the /vrge mussel are frequently used as spoons and small dishes. A very handsome dish, with an oval outline, is also made from part of the larger end of the horn of the mountain sheep. This is probably softened by steaming, and forced into a symmetrical shajie, then pared down thin and carved externally. Fig. 18 represents one of these. The mountain sheep horns, with those of the mountain goat, are obtained in barter with the Tshimsians and other Indians of the maiidand, neitjier of the animals occuring in the Queen Charlotte Islands. Large serviceable ladles are also made from the mountain sheep horns, the lower part of the horn being widened to form an ample bowl, and the upper straightened out to produce the handle. One of these of the larger sort measures from the end of the handle to tiic point of the bowl, round its convex surface, 2 feet 3^ inches. The bowl itself is 8^ inches long by 6 inches wide, and 2^ deep. (Fig. 6.) The spoons in ordinary use are six or seven inches long with large flat bowls, made in a single piece from the horn of the mountain goat. The handle may be carved to lepresont a human or other foi-m. An- other kind much prized and cared for, is made by attaching a bowl of the usual form, made from a piece of mountain sheep or goat horn, to the wider extremity of an entire horn of the mountain goat by a couple of ri^'ets. The goat horn, i-etaining its natural curve, is then elaborately carved with human or other figures, according to the taste of the maker. Such spoons may be about a foot in length. (Fig- 27.) Knives of all sorts are now in use, but some ingenuity is shown in adapting old blades to now handles, manufacturing knives from files, and so on. A kiiife used in rutting up iish is made by fixing one edge of a thin sqnai-e or oblong piece of iron in a cylindrical or flattened piece of wooil of slightly greater length. This has thus the form of a small mincing knife. The boxes in which most of the goods and chattels of the household are packed away are matle after a uniform plan. A small one measured LlO^ inches high by 15 square. The sides are made of a single wide thin piece of ced*<,r, which is bent throe times at a right WT: QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 143 B goat. lousehold uiiU OT\e tide of a a right- angle, with very little appearance of breaking at the corners, and pegged together at the fourth angle. The bottom is made of a sepa- rate piece of wood. The cover is cut out of a solid slab. It rests by a shoulder on the ledge of the box, and expands sligbtly upward, so that the upper surface of that of the box above mentioned and repre- sented in Fig. 29 is nearly 17 inches squai-e. These boxes are generally decorated externally by designs in black and dull red i)aint, and are carefully corded with cedar-bark rope, which is so arranged as to meet and tie over the top of the cover when desired. Mats, of an oblong form, and plaited rather than woven, from strips Mats, of cedar bark, constitute a great part of the housebold furniture. They vary much in texture, and may be either of the natural brownish or yellowish colour or diversified by black bands. One-handed adzes, with the blade fixed at an acute angle to the Adzes, handle, are very commonly used. (Fig. 14.) The blade is often an old broad file, shai'])ened at the end. These, no doubt, replace those of stone of a former day. A few of the stone adze-heads are still to bo Stono ad«es. found about the houses, and are very well shaped, and different in form from any I have elsewhere seen. One of these is represented in figure 13. Tlje head somewhat resembles a poll pick in shape, being square in section near the front, but oblong towards the head owing to the increasing breadth, the thickness from side to side remaining the same or nearly so. Near the head, one of the smaller sides is carved into one or two saddle-like hollows to receive the properl}' shaped end of the handle, which was no doubt lashed firmly to the stone with sinew or bark. The lateral surfaces are sometimes grooved from the head downward for one-third or more of the total length. The dimensions of some specimens arc as follows : — No. 1.— Length, 1' 1". Breadth, 2". Thickness, 1 ,V inchen. No. 2.— » 1^". '< 2". " If". No. 3.— " 8" (about) " 2". " 1 -ft-"- The measurements are merely averages, as the sides are not gono- rall}- strictly parallel, but slope more or less towards the ends. The material of these tools appears to be a matter of indilforence, as I have seen thera made of hard altered igneous rocks like those so common in the ^country, of a hard sandy argillito, and of the peculiar greenish jade which the natives of some other ])arts of the province prize so highly. This latter material is not, according to the Haidas, found in the islands, but has occasionally been obtained in the course of trade. Large stono hammers are still in use for driving home wedges and Hammors. similar operations. No stone arrow-heads were found, and it is pro- bable that these people, before they wore acquainted with ii-on, used bono only for this purpose. I ¥ 144 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. 'I I n Fur-seal spear. Si)cuvs and hjirpoons were doubtless in former times made of bone, like those found in the shell heaps of Yancoiiver Island. At the present day iron has been substituted. A species of harpoon is used in the chase of the fur seal. It is generally made by the Haidas them- selves from an old flat file. The cxti'cmity is sharpened to a blade-like point, which is succeeded by a series of barbs on each side, sharjjly thrown backward. The butt of the file is bored through, and a loo}) of strong copper wire fixed to it so as to move freely. To this is attached a sti'ong cord of plaited sinew, to the extremity of which a bladder or float is affixed. When in use, the butt end of the iron head is fixed in u socket in the extremity of a long, light cedar pole, but easily detaches itself when it is driven into the animal. The head of the harpoon generally fits into a wooden sheath made of two pieces fixed together with bark lashing. Salmon spear. The head of the salmon spear consists of a sharp blade-like iron tip to the base of which two pointed pieces of horn are lashed, the lashing being thickly covered with spruce gum so as to offer no impediment to the whole entering the fish. The length of the blade, with the horn barbs, is about four inches. Between the pieces of horn fits the sharp- ened end of a piece of wood, 7^ inches long, which increases gradually in size till at its inner extremity it forms a flat leaf-shaped expansion, which fits into a hollow of similar form in the end of a long light cedar pole. The entl of the pole is served with bark to prevent its splitting, and the iron-tipped head is made fast to the intermediate wooden piece, and that to the end of the pole by strong strings. When plunged in the fish, the loose wooden piece no doubt first comes out from the end of the pole, and with a slight increase of strain it comes away from the barbed head, which thus practically remains fixed to the end of tho pole by a foot or eighteen inches of cord. Fish-hooks. "^^e fish hook is made substantially' after the pattern general on the Avest coast, but owing to the want of the yew, it has not the same graceful shape with that of the Ahts and Makah Indians. In its primi- tive form, among the Haidas, it consists either of a forked branch, of suitable size, or of two pieces of wood lashed together so as to mako an acute angle with each other. To the upper piece, about the middle, is fixed the string for the suspension of ihe whole, to the free or yuter end of the lower piece a pointed bone is lashed so as to project obliquely backward, reaching to within a short distance of tho upper piece. The bone is now, however, generally replaced by an iron point, and in some caees the whole hook is fashioned out of a piece of thin iron rod, bent round and sharpened (Fig. 9). This hook is more particularly used in halibut fishing. A largo sized one in wood (Fig. 10) measures 10 inches in length, with a distance of five and a half inches between the divergent Tf^Tl [" bone, At the is uHed 8 them- adc-liko sharply , h)o\> of ittached ulder or fixed in dctiichcs harpoon togetlier n QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 145 B onds of the two pieces of which it ia made. When in use, a carved wooden float is fixed about a foot from the hook, and a short distance further up the line a large stone sinker. The whole being lowered noat and to the bottom till the stone comes to rest, the small float drifts oat*"" **'' with the tide, and keeps the hook below it at a short distance from the bottom. The wooden parts of the hooks and the floats are sometimes rudely carved. A second form of hook dift'ei-s slightly from the first, in being formed of a piece of thin iron rod, bent round in a continuous curve of an oval form, but of which the upper side has been somewhat ditngitudinal 1(1 in front uns, which unt of the in front ot jport a pair channelled li close the The two n-ul-ld-stunfj. f 1^ If \ff>:} V ■'] QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 147 B Tlio dimonslons of tlio hoiiso represented in ])lHn and eleviition in Dimonnionsof figures 35 and 30, of Hize rather greater than usual, in the Kung "* Indian Village, Virago Sound, were found to bo as follows: — Breadth of front of house, 54' G" ; depth, from front to back, 47' 8" ; height of ridge of roof, 10' 0"; height of eaves, 10' 8"; girth of main vertical posts and horizontal beams, D' 9" ; width of outer upright beams, 1 10"; thickness, about 5"; width of upper slojiing beams, 2' 7"' tliickness, 6" ; width of carved post in front of house, 3' 10". A second, and not unusual, stylo of house has only a single frame, consisting of four vortical flattened posts at each end, supporting sloping beams. The outer supporting posts are generally morticed out, and the outer ends of the sloping beams passed through them. Stout beams flattened on the lower side, and generally three in number on each side, are then made to rest on the sloping beams, and l)ear above them the cedar planking of the roof, held in place by stones heaped upon it, or by small beams laid over them above. In a passage quoted by Mr. J. G. Swan in the Smithsonian Con tri- Description of butious to Knowledge, No. 207, Marchand (1791, see page 11 li.) chand. ^ describes the houses on North Island in the following terms: — " The form of these habitations is that of a regular parallelogram, from forty-five to fifty feet in front, by thirty-five in depth. Six, . eight, or ten posts, cut and planted in the ground at each front, form the enclosure of a habitation, and are fastened together by planks ten inches in width, by three or four in thickness, which are solidl}' joined to the posts by tenons and mortices ; tho enclosures, six or seven feet high, are surmounted by a roof, a little sloped, the summit of which is raised from ten to twelve foot above the ground. These enclosm'es \vi and the roofing are faced with planks, each of which is about two feet wide. In the middle of tho roof is made a largo, square opening, which affords, at once, both entrance to tho light, and issue to the smoke. There are also a few small windows open on the sides. Those houses have two storys, although one only is visible, the second is underground, or rather its upper part or coiling is oven with tho surface of the place in which the posts are driven. It consists of a cellar about five feet in depth, dug in the inside of the habitation, at the distance of six feet from the Avails throughout the whole of the circumference. Tho descent, to it is by three or four steps made in the platform of earth which is "^ reserved between tho foundations of tho walls and tho collar; and these steps of eaj-th, well beaten, are cased with planks, which pi'ovent the soil from falling in. Beams laid across, and covered with thick planks, form the upper floor of this subterraneous story, which preserves from moisture tho upper story, whoso floor is on a level with the ground* This cellar is the Avinter habitation." 148 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Carvod posts. This doscription is Hubstantially accurate, and so dotuilod that it iH scarcely likely to bo erroneous in regard to the division by a tloor of the excavated portion of the interior of the house from that above the level of the ground. I have not seen this arrangement, however, in any of the houses now existing on the islands. The peculiar carved pillars which have been generally referred to as carvod posts are broadly divided into two claoaos, known as kexen and xat. One of the former stands at the front of every house, and through the base, in most instances, the oval hole serving as u door passes. The latter ai*e posts erected in memory of the dead. . > Doorway posts. The kexcn aro generally from 30 to 50 feet in height, with a width of three feet or more at the base, and taporing slightly upwards. They aro hollowed behind in the manner of a trough, to make them light enough to be sot and maintained in place without much difficulty. Those posts aro generally covered with grotesque figures, closely grouped together, from base to summit. They include the totem of the owner, and a striking similarity is often apparent between the posts of a single village. I am unable to give the precise signification of the carving of the posts, if indeed it has any such, and the forms are illustrated better by the plates than by any desci'iption. Human figures, wearing hats of which the crowns run up in a cylin- drical form, and are marked round with constrictions at intervals, almost always occur, and either one such figure, or two or throe fre- quently surmount the end of tho post. Comparatively little variation from the general type is allowed in the ke\en, while in those posts erected in memory of the dead, and all I believe called x^t, much greater diversity of design obtains. These posts are generally in tho villages, standing on the narrow border of land between tho houses and the beach, but in no determinate relation to the buildings. A common form consists of a stout, plain, upright post, round in section, and generally tapering slightly downwards, with one side of the toj) tltit- tened and a broad sign-board-like square of hewn cedar planks affixed to it. This may bo painted, decorated witl. some rained design, or to it may bo affixed one of tho much prized ' coppers ' which has belonged to the deceased. In other cases the upright post is carved more or less elaborately. Another form consists of a round, upright post with a carved eagle at the summit. Still others, carved only at tho base, run up into a long round post with incised rings at regular intervals. Two round posts ai'O occasionally planted near together, Avith a large hori- zontal painted slab between them, or a massive beam, which appears in some instances to be excavated to hold tho body. Those memorial posts Jiro generally less in height than the door posts. Btono models The cax'ved stone models of posts made by the Skidegale llaidas of posts.] Monumental jiosts. ?1 QUEFN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 149 B from the rock of Slate Chuck Crook nro generally good representations of tho ke\en. (Several of those aro figured by J. G. Swan in the pub- lication already referred to.) Plates, flutes, and other carvings made from the same stone, though evincing in thoir manufacture some skill and ingenuity, have been produced merely by the demand for such things as curiowities by whites. The use of copper, and to some extent the method of manufacturiug Copper, it into various articles by hammering, has been known from time im- memorial to most of the Indians of this part of the west coast. The metal has probably been for the most pai't obtained in trade from tho Indians of the Atna or Copper River in latitude (J0° 17'. it is proba- bly this familiarity with copper that has enabled the Haidas, with other tribes of the coast, so soon to acquire a proficiency in the art of working silver and iron in a rough way. Traditions and Folk-lore. Of stories connected with localities, or accounting for various cir- cumstances, there are no doubt very many among the 'laidas. Of these, such as I have heard are given. The fundamental narrative of the origin of man, and the beginning of the present state of affairs is the most important of their mj'ths. In all its minor details I believe it to be correct ; that is to say, unaltered from its original traditional form. Minor shades of moaning may in some instances be indefinite, , . _. as it was obtaineil through the medium of the Chinook, aided by what little English my informant was master of. This, as related to mo, is as follows. — Very long ago there was a great flood by which all men and animals Creation myth, were destroyed, with tho exception of a single raven. This creature was not, however, exactly an ordinary bird, but — as with all animals in tho old Indian stories — possessed the attributes of a human being to a great extent. His coat of feathers, for instance, could be put on or taken oflF at will, like a garment. It is even related in one version of tho story that he was born of a woman who had no husband, and that she made bows and ax-rows for him. When old enough, with these he killed birds, and of their skins she sowed a cape or blanket. The birds were the little snow-bird with black head and neck, the large black and red, and the Mexican woodpeckers. The name of this being was Ne-kil-stlas. When the flood had gone down Ne-kil-stlas looked about, but could Flood, find neither companions nor a mate, and became very lonely. At last he took a cockle (Cardium Nuttalli) from the beach, and maiTying it, he constantly continued to brood and think earnestly of his wish for a companion. By and bye in the shell he heard a very faint cry, like '•j!:"-)^r ^■: ■I 150 B GEOLOOIOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. that of a nowly born child, which gradiutlly bocamo louder, and at lust a little fomalo child was seen, which growing by degrees larger and larger, wan finally married by the raven, and i'roin this union all the Indians wore produced and the country peopled.* Origin of water. The people, however, had many wants, and as yet had neither tiro, daylight, frosh water, or the oolachen tish.f Those things wore all in the possession of a groat chief or deity called Setlin-ki-Jdsh, who lived whore the Nasse Eiver now is. Water was first obtained in the follow- ing manner by JVe-ldl-stlas. The chief had a daughter, and to her JVe-kil-stlas covertly made love, and became her accepted lover, and visited her by night many times unknown to her father. The girl be- gan to love Ife-kil-stlas very nxuch, and trust in him, which was what he desired; and at length when he thought the time ripe, he said that he was very thirsty and wanted a drink of water. This the jL^irl brought him in one of the closely woven baskets in common use. Ho drank only a little, however, and setting the basket down beside him he waited till the girl was asleep, when, (quickly donning his coat of feathers, and lifting the basket in his beak, he flow out by the opening made for the smoke in the top of the lodge, lie was in great haste, fearing to bo followed by the people of the chief. A little water fell out hero and a little there, causing the numerous rivers which are now found, but on the llaida country a few drojjs only, like rain fell, and so it is that there are no large streams there to this day. Origin of fire. Ife-kil-sltas next wished to obtain fire, which was also in the posses- sion of the same powerful being, or chief, lie did not dare, however, to appear again in the chief's house, nor did the chief's daughter longer show him favour. Assuming, therefore, the form of a single • '■ needlelike leaf of the spruce tree, he floated on the water near the house, and when the girl — his former lover — came down to draw water, was lifted by her in the vessel she used. The girl drinking the water, swallowed, without noticing it, the little leaf, and shortly afterwards became pregnant, and before long bore a child who was no other than the cunning Ne-kil-stlas, who had thus gained an entry into the lodge. Watching his opportunity, he one day picked up a burning brand, and flying out as before by the smokc-holo at the top of the lodge, carried it away and spread fire everywhere. One of the first places where he set fire, was near the north end of Vancouver's Island, and that is the reason why so many of the trees there have black bark.J • In another form of tho story, it is said that Nc-hil-ntUis by imiiregnating two live cookies, and keeping them warm, hatched out both a man and a woman, who were the progenitors of the human race. t As sometimes related, it is taken for granted that the gun always was, the moott alone being wanting. \ Probably refers to the Douglas fir, which hero finds its northern limit op the coast, and is very often blackened by fires from tho underbrush running up tho thick, dry bark of its trunk. QUEEN CriAHLOTTK ISLANDS. 151 B All this timo, howovor, tlio people were without daylight, and it was origin of light, next the object of jVa-ktl-stlus to obtain tluH for them. Thin time he tried still uiiother plan, lie pretended that he also had light, and con- tinued to asHcrl it, though the chief denied the truth of his Htatemont. lie, however, in Home way made an object bearing a resemblance to the moon, which, while all Iho people wore out rishing on the Hoa, in the perpetual night, ho allowed to bo part!}' aoen from iiiider his coat of fiathers. It cast a faint glimmer across the water, which the people and SetUn-ld-jiish thought was caused by a veritable moon. Disgusted at finding that ho was not the solo possessor of light, and losing all conceit of his property, the great chief immediately placed the sun and moon where wo now see them. One thing more much desired still remained in the possession of Origin of the Settin-lu-jash ; this was the oolachen fish. Now the shag was a friend or companion of the chief, and had access to his property, including his store of ool.ichons. Nc-hil-stlas contrived that the soji-gull and the shag should (jairrel, by telling each that the other had spoken evil of him. At last he got them together, when, after an angry conversa- tion, they ibllowed his advice and began to tight Ne-kil-stlas knew that the shag had an oolachen in its stomach, and so urged the com- batants to fight harder, and to lie on their backs and strike out with their feet. This the}' did, and finally the shag threw up the oolachen, which Ne-ldl-stlas immediately seized. Making a canoe from a rotten log, he smeared it and himsolf with the scales of the oolachen, and then coming at night near the great chiefs lodge, said that he was very cold, and wished to come in and warm himself, as he had been making a groat fishery of oolachens, which ho had left somewhere not far otf. Set lin-ki josh said this could not be true as he only possessed the fish, but Ne-kil-stlas invited the chief to look at his clothes and at his canoo. Finding both covered with oolachen scaUs, he became ' ' '" convinced that oolachens besides those which he had must exist, and again in disgust at finding he had not the monopoly, ho turned all the oolachens loose, saying, at the same time, that every year they would come in vast numbers and continue to show his liberality and be a monument to him. This they have never failed to do since that timo. This Haida story of the origin of things is substantially the s'lmo Resemblance with that which I have been told bj Indians of the Tinneh stock in thor^ytha. northern ])art of the interior of British Columbia. My surprise on hearing it gradually unfolded as a Haida myth was very great. It would be hazardous to theorize on the cause of this similarity of myths in tribes so distant and so dissimilar in habits, but it is certain that both its versions are derived from a common source not very remote. It may indeed be that the Ilaidas have adopted this story from the ml p -■■.' ' 152 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. .ih-' v: Orii{in of tobacco. Tradition Laikeek. at Tshimsians, for whoso language, as wo have already seen, they profess gi-eat admiration. I do not know of the existence of the story among the latter people, but they probably have it in some form, as they are supposed to be an offshoot of the great Tinnoh stock of the interior country. As is always the case with these aboriginal stories, a local colouring has been given to the narrative by the Haidas, and the story of the oolachen is an addition to that which I have heard from the Tinneh. It shows the great value set upon this tish that it should receive mention among the primary necessaries of existence, such as light, watei', and fire. Ne-kil-stlas of the Haidas is represented in function and name by Us-tas of the Carrior Tinneh. Of Us-tas an almost endless series of grotesque and often disgusting adventures are related, and analogous tales are repeated about Ne-kil-stlas. One of these relates that he disguised himself as a dead raven, and floating on the surface of the sea was swallowed by a whale, which, by violent gripes being then induced to strand itself, became a prey to the Haidas, invisible Ne-kil-stlas meanwhile walking out of the whalers belly at the proper moment. The story of the origin of the Indian tobacco referred to on a pre- vious page, is as follows. — Long ago the Indians (first people, or ancient people — thlin-thbo-hait) had no tobacco, and one plant only existed, growing somewhere far inland in the interior of the Stickeen country. This plant was caused to grow by the deity, and was like a tree, very large and tall. With a bow and arrows, a man shot at its summit, where the seed was, and at last brought down one or two seeds, which he carried away, carefully preserved, and sowed in the following spring. From the plants thus procured all the tobacco after- wards cultivated sprung. The killer whale, formerly noted as being the representative of the principle of evil, is areaded by the Haidas, who say that these animals break canoes and drown the Indians, who then themselves become whales. The chief of the whales is the evil one himself, or his nearest analogue in the Ilaida mind. It is told that in the times of the grand- fathers of men now living, two Haidas belonging to Klue's Village went out in a canoe to kill these whales, apparently as a daring adventure. They had paddled far out to sea when the canoe was surrounded by a great number of these evil creatures, which were about to break it in pieces. One of the men, grasping his knife, said to the other that if he- was drowned and became as a whale, he would still hold his knife and stab the others. The second man holding to a fragment of the canoes floated near an island and swam ashore. The first was drowned, but his companion who had escaped, soon heard strange and very loud noises beneath the island, like great guns being fired. Presently a vast ^^^"^i-k-, QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 153 B number of fish floated up dead, and with them a largo whale of the malevolent kind above described. This had a great wound in its side, from which much blood flowed. The medicine man of the village said afterwards that he knew — or saw — that the whale so killed was the chief among these creatures, and that the Indian who had killed him had now become chief in his stead. A remarkable hill, called Tow, stands on the shore between Eose story of the Point and Maswet. One side is a steep clift", while the other slopes more gradually. On the upper part of the inlet above Masset, is another hill alx»ut the same size and also precipitous on one side, called Toiv-us-tas-in, or 'Tow's Brother.' The story is that the two hills wore formerly together where Tow's brother still stands, but that on one occasion Tow's brother devoured the whole of a lot of dog-fish which was in dispute between them, and that Tow being much angered went away to the open coast, where he now is. It is also related that the summit of the hill called Tow was formerly inhabited by a very great spider, which, when a man passed, would swing itself down b}^ its rope, catch him up, and devour him. After a time a Haida killed this spider with a speai*. Nai-koon or Rose Point (the Haida name meaning long nose) is a Terrors of Kose place full of real or imagined terrors to the Haidas. It is a dangerous and treacherous point to round at any time but in very fine weather, and many Indians have been drowned there on different occaions. They say that strange (uncanny) marine creatures inhabit its neighbourhood, and believe that if a man laugh never so little in rounding the spit, the are sure to work him evil. The father of my informant, with other Haidas in a canoe, saw one of these creatures. It was like a man, but very large, with hair hanging down to its shoulders. It raised itself ^ out of the water to itg middle, and frightened the Indians very much, but caused them no harm. Two vessels belonging to the Hudson Bay Company have been wrecked on this spit, and one of the Haida medi- cine-men sJiys that the souls of these haunt the place yet. About thirty years ago a great many Indians going in canoes to profit by a dead whale that had been cast up on the spit, were drowned between Masset and that jilace. There is also told in connection with Rose Point a story of a gigantic Gigantic beaver. This animal, it is said, inhabits its vicinity, and when it wishes to come to the surface produces a dense fog, the water at the same time becoming very calm. The fog may, perhaps, clear away enough to allow some one watching in a retired nook to see the great beaver; but should the animal catch sight of any human being it instantly strikes the water with its tail and disappeai-s. To laugh at the beaver, or make light of hira in any way, is certain lo bring bad luck; and , beaver. \i ''.Vt||'i p 154 B OEOLOGICAL SCRVEY OP CANADA. Early trading voyages. Dixon's ac- count of the natives. any one seeing him must, on his return to the lodge, throw little offer- ings on the fire. The TshiinHiiuiH have a similar story of an immense beaver which inhabits the vi:inity ol'JDundus Inland. First contact with Europeaii^. — Fur Trade. During Captain Cook's last voyage in the Pacific, it was discovered that a luci-ativo trade in fui-s might be opened between the north- western coast of America and China, and though the existence of a part of the Queen Charlotte Islands had been known to the Spaniards since the voyage of Juan Perez, who was despatched by the Viceroy of Mexico in 1774, it is to the traders who followed in the track of Cook that we owe most of the earlier discoveries in the vicinity of Queen Charlotte Islands, and it is they who appear first to have come in contact with the llaiilas. lieforo many years a number of vessels were engaged in the fur trade on this part of the west coast. Van- couver in the Notes and Miscellaneous Observations appended to his journal, states that 1792 this trade gave employment to upwards of twenty sail of vessels, of which he gives a list, with the names of the captains. From this it would appear that five of the vessels were owned in London, one in Bristol, two in Bengal, three in Canton, six in Boston, one in New York, two in Portugal, and one in France. Most of these have left no record of their voyages, but in the pub- lished narratives of those of Dixon and Meares, alresidy referred to, some account of the method of trade with the natives, and of their ap- pearance, manners and customs is found. Toward the beginning and during the earlier half of the present century, the Queen Chai-lotle Islands continued to be not unfrequently visited by these trading vessels, but the sea otter, the skins of which were the most valuable article of trade possessed by the islanders, having, through continuous hunting, become extremely scarce, vessels other than mere coasters have seldom called at nny of the ports for many years, and our knowledge of the geography of the islands and home manners and customs of the natives has not been added to. It is probable that La Perouse, who coasted a part of the Queen Charlotte Islands in 178G, had some intercourse with the natives, but the earliest notice of them 1 have been able to find is that given by " W. B.," the annonymous author of the letters in which the account of the voyage of the Queen Charlotte^ of which Captain Dixon was commander, is given. He writes* under date of .July 1st, 1787, — " At noon we saw a deep bay,t which bore north-cast by east ; the en- trance point to the northward, north-east bj' north ; and the oastermost • Op. oit. |). 198. t Cloak Buy and entrance to Parry Passnge. QUEEN CHAllLOTTE ISLANDS. 155 B land south-east, about seven leagues distant. Our latitude was 54° 22" Enters Cloak N. ; and the longitude 133° 50" W, During the afternoon, wo had light ^'*^" variable winds, on which we tltood to the northward, for fear we should get to leeward of the bay in sight, and we wore determined to make it if possible, as there was was every probability of meeting with inhabi- tants. During the night we had light variable airs in every direction, together with a heavy swell from the south-west; so that in the morn- ' ' '' ing of the 2nd we found our every oflbrt to reach the bay inetibctual ; liowever, a moderate breeze springing up at north-east, we stood in for the land close \>y the wind with our starboard tacks on board. At seven o'clock, to our very great joy, we saw sevei'al canoes full of Indians who appeared to have been out at sea, making toward us. On their coming up with the vessel, we found them to bo a fishing party; but some of them wore excellent beaver* cloaks. * ■''- * * The Indians we fell in with in the morning of the 2nd of July, did not seem inclined to dispose of their cloaks, though we endeavored to tempt them by exhibiting various articles of trade, such as toes, hat- chets, adzes, bowels, tin kettles, pans, &c., their attention seemed entirely taken up with viewing the vessel, which they ap]>arently did with marks of wonder and surprise. This we looked on as a good Opening of omen, and the event showed that for once we were not mistaken. After their curiosity, in some measure, subsided, they began to tnide, and we presently bought what cloaks and skins they had got, in exchange for toesjf which they seemed to like very much. They made signs for us to go in towards the shore, and gave us to understand that we should find more inhabitants, and plenty of furs. By ten o'clock we were within a mile of the shore, and saw the village where these Indians dwelt right abreast of us ; it consisted of about six huts, which appeared to be built in a more regular form than any we had yet seen, and the situation very pleasant, but the shore was rocky, and alibrded no place for us to anchor in. A bay now opened to the eastward, on which wo hauled bj' the wind, which blew pretty fresh from the north- ward and eastward, and steered directly for it. During this time several of the people whom we traded with in the morning had been on shore, probably to show their newly acquired bargains; but on seeing us steer for the bay, they presently ])ushed after us, joined by several other canoes. As wo advanced up the bay, there ajipeared Adverse wind, to be an excellent harbour, well land-locked, about a league ahead ; we * Heavers do not occur in the Queen Oliarlotte Islands, but this term appears to bo used " '■ ' '" hcre.ii)' elsewhere in the narrative, for sea otter cloaks. See p. 228, in statement on which it iii implied that nu beaver skins wore obtjiined. t Appears to be a species of a. It houses, gh com. ,vn with on what ck of iii- ) nativos. ighs, and voA from unnel bc- iglas calls erior con- 31 the V il- ly a very ihabitants whether owing to to have lent borne ed to by doubtless the i^pot confused, after the , no other the whole iicy at the Island and in situated. Ued, and it Ith-easterly lonly a few years. Tiioro are at proHont eight or ten roughly built houso.s, with few and poorly carved postH. The people who formerly lived at the entrance to Virago Sound are abandoning that place for this, because, as was oxplai:ied to me by their chief, Edensaw, they can got more trade here, as many Indians come across from tho north. The traverse from Capo Kygano or Muzou to Klas-kwun is about forty miles, and there is a rather prominent hill behind tho point by which the canoe- men doubtless direct their course. At the time of our visit, in August 1878, a great part of tho population of tho northern portion of the Queen Charlotte Islands was collected here preparatory to tho erection of carved posts and giving away of property, for which the arrival of the Kai-ga-ni Ilaidas was waited, those people being unable to cross owing to the prevalent fog and rough weather. The village just within tho narrow entrance to Virago Sound, from Kung viiinge. which these people ai'e removing, is called Kuny, it has been a substan- tial and well-constructed one, but is now rather decayed, though some of the houses are still inhabited. The houses arranged along the edge of a low bank, facing a fine sandy beach, are eight or ten in number, some of them quite large. The carved posts are not veiy numerous, though in a few instances elaborate. In J. F. Imray's North Pacific Pilot, a few notes on harbours, &c., in the Queen Charlotte Islands are given, iind it is stated, in mentioning Virago Sound that the Indian village " is to be built " inside a point on the western side of the narrowest part of the entrance. This is whei'e the Kung village now stands. The date of the note is not given, but it is probably 18G0 when tho sketch map of the Sound was made. About tho entrance to Masset Inlet there are three villages, two on Viiinsres of the east side and one on the west. The latter is called Ydn, and shows about twenty houses new and old, with thirty carved posts. The outer of these, on the oast side, at which the Hudson Bay Post is situated, is named Ut-te-ivas, the inner Kd-yung. The Ut-te-was village is now tho most populous, and there are in it about twenty houses, counting both large and small, with some from which the sjjlit cedar planks have been carried away, leaving only the massive frames standing. Of carved posts there are over forty in all, and these, with those of the northern part of tho islands goncrully, show a considerable difference as compared with those of Skidcgato, and other southern villages. The styles of the northern posts are somewhat more varied, and the short, stout form, with a sign-board-like square formed of split jilanks at the top, is comparatively rai-e. Some of tho Masset posts are merely stout poles, with very little carving, and at this place a thick, short post with a conical roof was observed, none like which were elsewhere seen. At the south end of the Ut-te-ivas Village is a little hill, the Ma:<.set Inlet. ^-4 -.ii I I 164 B OEOLOOICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Origin of the name MaMet. Temporary villaKCH. Abandoned village. houses on and beyond which appear to bo considoro'.l an properly forming a diHtinct viUago, though generally included in the former. The remaining MawHet village (Ka-yun(/) is Huiallor than this one, ami WHH not particularly examined. The principal chief of this vicinity is named Wi-he ; he is an old man, rather stout, and with nearly white hair and boai-d. T did not learn the precise extent of his authority, or whether, or in what degree, it may embrace the villages beyond that in which ho residoH. The name Massot is of uncertain origin. Some of the natives when questioned about it, said that it has been given by the whites ; while others believe that it has been extended to the whole inlet by the whites, but was the same with that of a small island which lies a little higher up the channel than the villages, and is said to be called Maast by the Ilaidas. It is unfortunate that so manj 'aces on this part of the west coast have been frequently renamed, owing to the ignorance of the names given by former explorers, but not widely published by them. The name Massotte occurs, evidently denoting the place now so called in Mr. Work's table given on a following page, and constructed between 1836 and 1841. It is also found on the map illustrating Green- how's Northwest Coast of North America, dated 1840, as Massette, but is attached to a supposed village between the positions of Masset Inlet and Virago Sound. It is suspiciously like Mazaredo, a name given by Caamano in 1793 ; but this, according to Greenhow's identification, i,-* the same place known to the American traders as Craft's Sound, which is identical with Virago Sound of the modern charts; and this i'lent- ification appears also to be boi'ne out by Vancouver's chart. A number of small houses, occupied during the summer, or salmon- fishing season, are scattered about the shores of the southern expansion of Masset Inlet. Of these, two are situated on the Ain River near its mouth, and several near th,o mouth of the Ya-koun. These summer houses are always small and slightly built compared with those of the permanent villages, and no attempt is made to erect any carved postb or symbols such as are appropriate at the main seat of the family. On the north shore of Graham Island, east of Masset, and about a mile and a half from Tow Hill, is a temporary village also belonging to the Masset Indians, and occupied during" the dog-fish and halibut fishery. A few small potato gai-dens surround the houses, which arc of the unpretentious character abovo described, and about half a dozen in number. Just east of Tow Ilill, and on low ground on the east bank of the Ili-ellen Eiver, a few much-decayed carved posts and beams of former houses ai'e still standing, whore, according to the Indians, a large village formerly existed. Its disappearance is partly accounted for QUEEN CIIABLOTTE ISIiANDS. 1G5 B by the fact tluit the 80ft has washed away much of tho ground on whicli it stood. As tlio subHoil is only wand and gravel, this might easily have occurred during a Hingle heavy storm coming from an unusual direction, or otherwise under exceptional conditions. It is probably that called Ne-coon, and credited with live houses in Mr. Works table given further on. Ne-coon or Nai-koon is, however, tho name of tho whole north-east point of tho island. North of Capo Ball, or Kul-tow-sis, on the oast coast of Graham Island, tho I'uins of still another village yet remain. It is said to have been popiilous, and is near some excellent halibut banks. It is doubtless that called A-se-guang in Mr. Work's list, and haid to have nine houses. Tl-ell is the name of a tract of country north of tho entrance to Large old bouse .Skidegato, between Boulder Point and tho mouth of a large stream twelve miles beyond it. About nine miles from Boulder Point, some posts iu"0 still standing, of an old house which must have been of groat size and built of very heavy timbers. This was erected by tho Skide- gato chief of one or two generations back, concerning whose great size and powers many stories are current among tho Haidas. The region came into tho possession of Skidegaio as the property of his wife, but was afterwards given by him to tho Skedans of that day as a peacc-ofiFering for the wounding or killing of ono of his (Skedans) women. The tract thus now belongs to Skedans, and is valued as a berrj' ground. Skit-ei-get, or Skidegato Village as it is ordinarily called, situated inSkidegate the inlet of the same name, and extended along the shore of a wide bay with sandy beach, is still ono of the most populous Haida villages, and has alwaj's been a ])laco of great importance. It has suffered moi'e than most places, however, from the habit of its people in resorting to Victoria and other towns to tho south. There are many unoccupied and ruinous houses, and fully one-half of those who still claim it as their residence are generally absent. The true name of the town is, I believe, Ilyo-hai-ka, while Skit-ei-get is that of the hereditary chief It is called Kil-hai-oo by the Tshimsians. There are now standing in this village about twenty-five houses, counting some of which the beams only remain, and several which are uninhabited. Of carved posts there are in all about fifty-three, making on an average two for each house, which was found also to bo about the proportion in several other places. Nearly one-half of these are monumental posts or x-at, it being rare to find more than a single dooi'-post or ke-\en for each house. Mr. Work assigns forty-eight houses to this place, whicli is not improbably correct for the date to which ho refers, as there are signs that the village has formerly been much more extensive, and the Skidegato Haidas themselves never cease to dwell on the deplorable decrease of the 1 III "iijjflii m itfjMle Ik; ;i^l 1 166 B OEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Decrease in pupiilatiun. Dixon's account. populjilion and ruin of tho town. One intelligent man told nie that ho cotild remember a time — which by his age could not have been more than thirty years ago — when there was not room to launch all the canoes of tho village in a single row the whole length of the beach, when tho people set out on one of their periodical trading expeditions to Port Simpson. Tho beach is about half a mile long, and there must have been from five to eight persons in each canoe. It is not improb- able that this is a somewhat exaggerated statement, but it serves to show the idea of the natives themselves as to the extent of the diminution they have suffered. Dixon cruised iiortliward along the east coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands about as far as Skidegate, in July, 1787, whence he turned southward for Nootka. He did not come to an anchor, but gives the following particulars, p.obabl}' relating to tho people of this place* : — " Early in the afternoon (July 29tl>) wo saw several canoes coming from shore, and by three o'clock we had no less than eighteen along- Bide, containing more than 200 people, chiefly men ; this was not only tho grcitest concourse of traders we had seen, but M'hat rendered tho circumstance additionally jjleasing was the quantity of excellent furs they brought us, our trade now being equal, if not superior to what we had met with in Cloak Bay, both in the number of skins, and the facility with which the natives ti'aded, so that all of us were busily employed, and our articles of traffic exhibited in the greatest variety; toes, hatchets, bowels, tin ko.tles, pewter basons, brass pans, buckles, knives, rings, t&c, being preferred by turns, according to the fancy of our numerous visitants. Amongst these traders was the old chief, whom we had seen on the other side of the islands, and who now appearing to be a person of the first consequence. Captain Dixon per- mitted him to come on board. f * * * On our pointing to the eastward and asking the old man whether we should meet with any furs there, he gave us to understand that it was a different nation from his, and that he did not even understand the language, but was always at war with them; that ho had killed great numbers and had many of them in his possession. " Tho old follow seemed to take particular pleasure in relating these circumstances, and took uncommon pains to make us comprehend his meaning ; he closed his relation with advising us not to come near that part of the coast, for that the inhabitants would certainly destroy UB. I endeavoured to learn how they disposed of the bodies of their His latitudes for the southern part of the islands * Possibly to thoso of Cumshcvra Inlet, are inexaot.as Vancouver remarks. t This man may have boeu the Skidogate chief, and was probably only on a visit when 8cen on the west coast. Ho had no skins to sell at that time. QDEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 167 B enemies who wore slain in battle; and though I could not understand the chief clearly enough ^osiY/re/;/ to assert, that the}-^ are feasted on by the victors; yet there is too much j-eason to foar, that this horrid custom is practised on this part of the coast; [!] the heads are always preserved as standing trophies of victory. "Of all the Indians we had seen, this chief had the most savage chief of ro- . "^ nmrkable np- ftspect, and jiim whole appearance suihcicntly marked him as a proper pearance. person to lead a tribe of cainiibals. His stature was above the common size ; his body spare and thin, and though at first sight he appeared lank and emaciated, yet his step was bold and firm, and his limbs appai'enlly strong and muscular; his eyes were large and goggling, and seemed ready to start out of their sockets ; his forehead deeply wrinkled, not merely by age, but from a continual frown ; all this, joined to a long visage, hollow cheeks, high, elevated cheek bones, and a natural ferocity of temper, formed a countenance not easily beheld without some degree of emotion. However, ho proved very useful in conducting our traflSc with his people, and the intelligence he gave us, and the methods he took to make himself understood, shewed him to possess a strong natural capacity. " Besides the large quantity of furs we got from this party, (at least 350 skins) they brought several racoon cloaks, each cloak consisting of seven racoon skins, neatl}' sewed together ; they had also a good quantity of oil in bladders of various sizes, from a pint to near a gallon, which we purcliased for rings and buttons. This oil appeared to be of a most excellent kind for tlie lamp, was pei'fectly sweet, and chiefly collected from the fat of animals." On the following day some of the same people, in eight canoes, ^"ft"**'^** again came alongside, but had verj' few and inferior skins, their store being nearly exhausted. An attempt was made to steal some of the skins already purchased, on which several shots were fired after the offending canoe. On the day following, while endeavouring to make southward with battling winds, the vessel was followed by a canoe containing fourteen ]>cople, who said that one of their companions had since died from a wound inflicted. No resentment was, however, shown toward the ship's company on that account, nor any fear exhi- bited on approaching the ship. The old chief, who seems so much to have impressed the nai-rator, may very probably have been the same before referred to, and described by the Haidas as of great size and striking appearance It is unnecessary to say that no evidence ofNooannibaUam cannibalism properly so called is found among these people, though as a part of the ceremony of certain religious rites flesh was bitten from the naked arm; and in some cases it is said old jieoplo have boot) torn limb from limb and partly eaten, or pretended to be eaten, by several Kit's 168 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Jfew villajre of Gold Harbour Indians. Abandoned Tillages. Cumshewa. of tho coast tribes. No trace now remains in the Queen Charlotte Islands of the custom of taking heads. It was formerly common on the west coast of Vancouver Island. The oil above mentioned was probably dog-fish oil, and contained in the hollow bulb-shaped heads of the gigantic sea-tangle (Macrocystis) of the coast. On the Avest end of Maude Island, a few miles only from the Skide- gate village, is now situated what may be called the New Gold Harbour Village. This has been in existence a few years only, having been built by the Haidas formerly inhabiting Gold Ilai'bour, or Port Kuper, on ground amicably purchased from the Skidegate Haidas for that purpose. The inlet generally known as Gold Harbour, is situated on the west coast, and can be reached from Skidegate by the narrow channel separating Graham from Moresby Island. Tho voyage, how- ever, includes a certain length of exposed coast, often difficult to pass in stormy weather, and the Indians, though still preserving their rights over the Gold Harbour region, and living there much of the summer, find it more convenient to have their permanent houses near Skidegate. The population of the place is about equal to that of the Skidegate village, though its appearance is much less imposing, as the houses which have been erected, are comparativelj' few and of small size, and there are as yet few carved posts. The tAvo villages on the west coast, now almost abandoned by these people, are called Kai-shun and Cha-atl, — the former situated near the entrance to Gold Harbour, or Skai-to, the latter not far from the south-western or narrow entrance to Skidegate Channel. From one or both of these villages five canoes, with thirty-eight or forty people, came off to the Queen Charlotte, A few women were in the canoes, from one of whom Dixon piu'chased tho ornamental labret which he figures iu the plate opposite page 208 of his volume. The village generally known as Cumshewa, is situated in a small bay facing toward the open sea, but about two miles within the inlet to which the same name has been applied. The outer point of the bay is formed by a little rocky islet, which is connected with the main shore by a beach at low tide. The name Cumshewa or Kumshewa is that of the hereditary chief, the village being properly called Tlkinool, or by Tshimsians Kit-ta-wds. There are now standing here twelve or four- teen houses, several of them quite ruinous, with over twenty-five carved posts. Tho population is quite small, this place having suffered much from the causes to which the decrease in numbers of tho natives have already been referred. The decayed ruins of a few houses, representing a former village, which does not appear to have been large, stand just outside Cumshewa Inlet, beyond the north entrance point. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 169 n At the entrance to Ciimshewa Inlet, on the opposite or south side, isskedanevillaKo the Skedans village, so called, as in former cases, from the chief, but of which I did not learn the proper name.* This is a place of more importance than the Cumshewa village proper, and appears always to have been so. Many of the houses are still inhabited, but most look old and moss-grown, and the carved posts have the same aspect. Of houses there are now about sixteen, of posts forty-four. At the time of our visit, an old woman Avas having a new post erected in memory of a daughter who liad died some years before in Victoria. The mother having amassed considerable property for the purpose, was prepared to make a distribution when t!ie post had been fairly put up. The village borders the shore of a semicircular bay, which forms one side of a narrow, shingly neck of land connecting two remarkable little conical hills with the main. Klue's Village, properly called Tanoo, or by the Tshimsians Lax-skik, Klue village, is situated fourteen miles southward from the last, on the outer side of the inner of two exposed islands. The channel between the islands is so open as to afford little shelter, while the neighbourhood of the village is very rocky, and must be dangerous of approach in bad weather. There are about thirty carved posts here, of all heights and styles, with sixteen houses. The village, extending round a little rocky point, faces two ways, and cannot easily be wholly seen from any one point of view, which causes it to look less important than the ' last, though really possessing a larger population than it, and being in a more flourishing state than any elsewhere seen in the islandp. There were a considerable number of strangers here at the time of our visit in July, 1878, engaged in the erection of a carved post and house for the chief. The nights are given to dancing, while sleep and gambling divided the portions of the day which were not employed in the business in hand. Cedar plaidis of great size, hewn out long ago in anticipation, had been towed to the spot, and were now being dragged up the beach by the united efforts of the throng, dressed for the most part in gaily -coloured blankets. They harnessed themselves in clustei's to the ropes, as the Egyptians are represented to liave done, in their pictures, shouting and ye-hooing in strange tones to encourage themselves in the work. ThG Kun-xit Yilliisc is the most southern in the Queen Charlotte Ninstanco vilitwfc* Islands. It is gouerally known as Ninstance or Nin-stints, from the name of the chief, and is situated on the inner side of Anthony Island of the Admiralty sketch of Houston Stewart Channel. The villages marked as occuring in Houston Stewart Channel, on the same sketch. * Mr. J. Q. Swan incedentalljr refers to it u Komta, p. 5, (%p. cit. 170 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Villages on west coast. do not exist ; they have been little collections of rude houses for tempo- rary use in summer, and htive now disappeared. There are still a good many Indians here, but I have seen the place only from a distance, and know little about it. When off this place on July 23rd, Dixon was visited by eight canoes containing "near one himdred people," probably for the most part men, as it is mentioned, on the next day, that about 180 people, men, women, and children, came out to the ship. Besides the last mentioned, and the two villages near Gold Harbour, there were formerly two or three other places whei-e Ilaidas were resident on the west coast of the islands. One of these was at Tasoo Harbour, which is reported to be u large sheet of water. I could not learn whether the village here was a permanent one, but think it must have been so. It h not improbably that designated Too in Mr. Work's list, and is marked on an old sketch of the islands as standing on the north-west side of the harbour, A vilhage was situated on the island called Hippa by Dixon, of which the Ilaida name was, I believe, •Mus-too. Dixon gives a sketch of the island and village in the volume already refcn-cd to. Under date July 7th, 1787, he writes of this place. — Hippah Island. " About two o'clock in the afternoon, being close in shore, we saw several canoes putting off, on which we shortened sail, and lay too for them, as the wind blew pretty fresh. The place these people came from had a ver}' singular appearance, and on examining it narrowly, we plainly perceived that they lived in a very large hut, built on a small island, and well fortified after the manner of an hippah, on which account we distinguished this place by the name of Hippah Island. "The tribe who inhabit this hippah seem well defended by nature from any sudden assault of their enemies; for the ascent to it from the beach is steep, and difficult of access ; and the other sides are well barri- cadoed with pines and brush wood ; notwithstanding which, they have been at infinite pains in raising additional fences of rails and boards ; so that I should think they cannot fail to repel any tribe that should dare to attack their fortification. " A number of circumstances had occurred, since our first trade in Cloak Bay, which convinced us, that the natives at this place were of a more savage disposition, and had less intercourse with each other, than any Indians we had met Avith on the coast, and we began to suspect that they were cannibals in some degree. Captain Dixon no sooner saw the fortified but just mentioned, than this suspicion was strength- ened, as it was, he said, built exactly on the plan of the hippah of the savages at New Zealand. We purchased a number of excellent cloaks, and some gootl skins from the Indians, for which we gave a variety of QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 171 B ai'ticleH, some choosing toes, and others pewter basons, tin kettles, knives, &c. This tribe appeared the least we had yet seen ; I could not reckon more than thirty-four or thirty-six people in the whole party ; but then it should be considered that these were pro])ably chosen men, who perhaps expected to meet with their enemies, as they were equally prepared for war or trade." It is possible that the 'fortified hut ' seen by Dixon was a iiallisaded village on 1 Frederick enclosure intended for times of danger only, and not the village usually Island, inhabited. Such a retreat formerly existed on the little island opposite Skidegate Village, though no trace of it now remains. The last village of which I have any knowledge, stood formerly on or very near Fi*ederick Island of the maps. Its name, or that of the island, was Susk or Sisk. It is reputed to have been populous, but may never have been very important. Haidas belonging to this tribe came oft to the Queen Charlotte on the 5th and 6th of July, " bringing a number of good cloaks, which they disposed of very eagerly." It is remarked further that: — "These people were evidently a ditt'erent tribe from that we met with in Cloak Bay, and not so numerous; I could not reckon up more than seventy-five or eighty persons along- side at one time. The furs in each canoe seemed to be a distinct property, and the people were particularly careful to prevent their ueighbours from seeing what articles they bartered for." Population of the Queen Cliarlotte Islands. As the population of the Queen Charlotte Islands has decreased, the smaller and less advantageously situated towns have been abandoned by the survivors, who have taken up their abode among the larger tribes to which they have happened to be related by marriage or otherwise. When the Indians are questioned as to why these places have been given up, they invariably say that all the people are dead, which may not be absolutely cori'ect. Not any of the inhabited villages, however, now contain a tithe of the people for whom houses are yet standing. It is very difficult in all cases to form estimates of the number of the Estimate inr aboriginal tribes when first discovered, and it is a common error, from narrative, the too literal acceptance of the half fabulous stories of the survivors, to greatly over-estimate the former population. The writer of the narrative of Captain Dixon's voyage has certainly not fallen into this mistake. He writes (p. 224) : — " The number of people we saw during the whole of oui- traffic, was about eight hundred and fifty ; and if we suppose an equal number to be left on shoi'C, it will amount to one tiiousand seven hundred inhabitants, which, I have reason to think, F .1 fc ■ • 172 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Table of po pulation by John Work Totals. will be found the extreme number of people inhabiting these islands, including women and children." It is to bo remembered that Dixon not only did not anchor in any of the ports, but that most of the time he kept so far from the shore as to render it improbable that more than a small proportion of the able-bodied men of each tribe should visit the ship. The number of sea-otter skins obtained by Dixon during the cruise about the Queen Charlotte Islands was 1821, "many of them very fine; other furs we found in less variety here than in many other parts of the coast, the few racoons before mentioned, a few pine-martin, and some seals, being the only kinds we saw." po-j^ I have been so fortunate as to obtain from Dr. W. F. Tolmie the subjoined estimates of the numbers of the Ilaida tribes. These were made between the years 1836 and 1841 by the late Mr. John Work, and, though not framed from personal acquaintance with the Haida country, are supposed to be based on the most reliable sources, with which Mr. Work's long residence on the northern part of the coast oi' British Columbia had made him familiar. It is likely that even at this date the population of the islands had somewhat decreased, but in all probability not very materially. On examining the table it will be found that the villages are grouped under the common names in some instances, and that it is at times difficult to recognise what place is referred to, I have, however, endeavoured to test the table in regard to those places with which I am familiar, by comparing the relative importance of the dilferent localities at present with that assigned to them here, and otherwise, and am persuaded that the figures are substantially correct, and probably rather an under than an over-estimate if taken to represent the population when first brought into contact with the whites. The total number of Haidas living in the Queen Charlotte Islands, as given by Mr. Work, is 6593. The whole number of the Haida nation, including the Kai-ga-ni Haidas, 8328. The number of people assigned to each house in the Queen Charlotte Islands, according lo Mr. Work's table, is found to be about thirteen, which, taking into consideration the size ot the houses and manner of living, is very moderate. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 173 n Estimate of the Number of Tfaida and Kai-ga-ni Indians, made between the years 1836 and 1841, by John Work, Esq. Namk. Men. Women. Boys. Girl*. 52 112 41 107 61 63 Houses. You-ah-noe 68 98 30 117 53 65 431 70 105 35 121 61 62 44 102 42 113 54 59 18 Click-ass ....,■ ,..,,.., 26 Qui-o-hanleHS 8 H Ho w-a-guan 27 ^ Shaw-a-gan 14 Chat-chee-nie 18 Totals 454 414 436 111 r Lu-Ian-na » . 80 70 630 24 34 191 80 115 87 169 80 131 45 76 69 650 27 31 182 74 121 79 164 74 146 49 69 72 589 29 27 176 63 98 68 105 85 145 50 71 69 604 42 28 189 69 105 74 107 90 139 52 20 Niirh-tasis 15 Massette 160 Ne-coon 5 A-se-iruanflr 9 8kid-de-gate8 48 •§ Cum-sha-was 20 £^ Skee-dans 30 Quee-ah 20 Cloo 40 Kisli-a-wiii 18 Kow-welth , • . 35. Too 10 Totals 1736 1742 1476 1639 430 1' B 'f^- 174 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Present nopula- The preBont population of the northern end of the Queen Charlotte tionoftlie t„i i„ : i.i.. _,.*; i„,i I \T.. n„ii;-^ iV,„ _-:,.„:„„ ii j.. tion of t islands. Number of the Kai-ga-ni. Ultimate destiny of the Uaidus. ^W Islands is roughly estimated by Mr. CoUison, the missionary there, to number about 800. In Skidegate Inlet about 600 Haidas now remain, and are probably nearly equally divided between the two villages above described. Without referring in detail to the other villages, for which no sufficiently precise information was obtained, it is probable that the total population of the islands at the present time is from 1700 to 2000. In this estimate it is intended to include all the Haidas belonging to the islands, even those who live most of the time away from their native villages. From Skidegate Inlet and places south of it, a largo proportion of the natives are always absent, generally in Victoria. From the north end of the islands comparatively few go to Victoria, while a good many resort to Fort Wrangel and other northern settle- ments. The number of the people of the same stock in the southern part of Alaska, who may be classed together as Kai-ga-ni, is estimated by Mr. W. H. Ball at 300.* Notwithstanding the alarmingly rapid decrease of the Haida people during the century, it is not probable that the nation is fated to utter extinction. Like other tribes brought suddenly in contact with the whites, they will reach, if they have not already arrived at, a certain critical point, having passed which they will continue to maintain their own, or even to grow in numbers. As already indicated, the Haidas show a special aptitude in construction, carving, and other forms of handiwork; and it should be the endeavour of those interested in their welfare to promote their education in the simpler mechanical arts, by the practice of which they may be able to earn an honest livelihood. When the fisheries of the coast are properly developed, they will also be found of great service as fishermen; and were there a ready sale for cured fish, they might be taught so to improve their native methods as to ensure a marketable product. Saw-mills must soon spring up in the Queen Charlotte Islands to utilize their magni- ficent timber, and it is probable that in the course of years broad acres of fertile farms will extend where now unbroken forest stands. In such industries as these the natives may also doubtless be enlisted, but before they can bo prosecuted justly the Indian title must be disi^osed of. Thii^, in the case of these people, will be a matter of considerable difiiculty, for as we have already seen, they hold their lands not in any loose general way, but have the whole of the ii^lands divided and apportioned off as the property of certain families, with •United States Geological and Geographical Survey of the Rocky Mountain Region; Contributions to North American Kthnology. Vol. I., p. 40. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 175 n customs fully dovolopod m to tho inheritanco and transfer of lands. The authority of tlic chiefs is now so small that it is more than doubtful whether the people generally would acquiesce in any bargain between tho chiefs in an offlcial capacity and the whites, while the process of extinguishing by purchase the rights of each family Avould be a very tedious and expensive one. Tho negotiations will need to be conducted with skill and care. At present, anyone requir- ing a spot of ground for any purpose, must nialce what biu-gain he can with tho person to whom it belongs, and will probably have to pay dearly for it. mt- tuin Region ; ■I QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS, 177 B APPENDIX B. VOCABULARY OF THE HAIDA INDIANS OF THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. Tho f(illowiri^ vociiljulury, though hy no means compleie, may servo 1o rcpreHont the Haula hmguago for pnrpoHOs of linguistic comparison. Most of tho words were obtained by myself from intelligent natives, often through tho medium of the Chinook jargon, aided by drawings or explanations, and in some cases by a slight knowledge of English in my informant. AVhile generally correct, it may therefore in some cases bo in error, and in occasional instances phrases or short sen ton cos pcem pretty obviously to have been given in place of single words. It is also to be observed that tho Masset and Skidogatc dialects are not so diverse as thoy might appear to bo on a slight examination of tho lists, for while in most cases tho same word has been obtained in each locality, but with some degree of modification, not infrequently a different word with the same or similar meaning has been substituted, though that sot down in tho other dialect may also be well understood. It may further be remarked that the syllable tl or hi prefixed to many words, probably in most cases represents the article, but where I have not been sure of this I have hesitated to remove it. The words, before being written down, were invariably repeated by myself till I sneccedod in pronouncing them to the satisfaction oi my instructor. The indefinite character of the pronunciation of an unwritten liinguage is so marked, in most of those with which I have had to do, that in the absence of personal familiarity with tho language, the use of a complete and highly elaborated system of orthography is in practice almost impossible. I have therefore employed, with little ;iltoration, that suggested in No. 160 of the Smithsonian Miscellaneous Collections, entitled Instructions for Research relative to the Ethnology 12 178 R nBOLOniCAI. SURVEY OF OANADA. and ]*/uloloiji/ of America. Tho valuo of tho princiiml clmructorN UHod, according to tho Hchoino adopted, Ih hh ToIIowh: — a UH long iu father, short in (icrmun hat (nouily as in Kngiish what). e an long in they, short in met. i jw long in marine, short m pin. as long in note, shoi-t in home or F^Ver-'h mot. 00 as long \n fool, pool. ' t/ as in but. ai as in aittte. oi as in oil. otv as in how. en as in plume. y as in yon. X represents tho gnttural sound somotinios indicated by ch or tjh. Tho long valuo of vowels is distinguished hy tho macron, thus a, e; tho short value by tho breve, thus (I, f. The words are arranged nearly in tho order of those in the Introduc- tion to the Study of Indian Languages by J. W. Powoll. I am indebted to Mr. Powell for copies of this publication, which have boon of essential service. CI. M. D. English. Man Woman Old man Old woman Young man Young woman Boy Girl Infant Widower Widow Bachelor (old) Maid (old) Head Hair Crown of the head . Scalp Face Forehead Bye Pupil of the eye..., Eyelash SkIDEUATK DiAl-KOT. i-hling-a xada hei-a kei-a ka-ha he-tot-i-na-ha , koo-del tl-hungut-a << skung-un-ta . kdd-ze kaskai-tl tl-had-ze kas-il hoanga kwul hung-e hung-ihl-tan-gai .. hung-ihlrta-gut-se Masset Dialect. kCi-d. nun-kea-tza-da. d-i-tling-a. d-tzed-a. hd-tlel-a. xa-da-hU-zoo. na-d-tzoo-tzoo. a-wdhtl-tza-koo-tl. tl-kldl-koo-tlh. kum-il-xd-dn-ang. kum-ld-in-a-ing. kdtz. katl-kai-tl. kling-ootz. katz-kul. hang-e. kwul. hung-c. hung-kon. hung-il-td-kwutz. QUEEN CHARLOTTE IHLANDH. 179 B Enolihii. Eyebrow llppm- eyolid Lower oycl id Kar-lobe Kftr I'orfonitioii in onr Exteriiul opening of ear Noso kidgo of noHo NoHtril Septum of noso Perforation of Hoptuni of noH<" (!iioolc Hoard Moutii Upper lip Lower lii) Tooth Tongue Saliva Palate Throat (!hin Neck Adam's apple Body Shoulder Shoulder-blade Breast of a man Breast of a woman Nipples Hip Waist Belly Navel lii gilt arm. Left arm Arm-pits Arm above elbow. Elbow Arm bolov/ elbow. Wrist Hand Palm of hand Back of hand Fingers Thumb Point of finger.... Skideoatk Dcai-ect. sfiSts-how .... hung-a-liill ... humj-kwa-ul . (jeu-tun-yai ... i/itl , tjiu-het , (liu-hatli hrun kunm-ona . .. kinin-katle. .. kwun-tun-(j(ti . kwunhel kun-tse-da .... skoio-re het-le kut-sl-run . ... tmmj-a tawj-il .. .. klan-a shing-i-je ., ka-gin-zoo tl-kai Ml ka-tU skill skul-ka-ul-timj-e klin-e-we. klun-ewe-kim-ii kool-tWKje. ki-xi skil hie , skwt-a-ka-tti ... hie-kund hie-tsi-kwe hea-kow slai-kwul-tiny-e slai stl-ka-gun stl-oona slai stl-kwu-da stl-koon-a Mahskt Dialect. skiatz. hungknl. hung-kira-al. geu-stni. gfu. geu-stiti-ktl. geu-hsl. kivun. kwitn-il-kon. kwun-zool. kirun-ihl-tdtz. kinmki-tl-t'i. tl-tzut. kiii-oic-d. hatle. ku'oosc-uon. kwoot-hud-goose. tsing. tdng-il. klan or tltCi. sing-itz. k(i-gin-zoo. tl-kai. hll. tsis-tnnga. hloo. skid. skul-d-ul. tUn-oo-a. tlin-loo-e. klin-oo-e-hoot-zoo. anl-kwun. kitz. sol-gcost. Jan-goost. skwut-kd-tle. hie-kivul. hi-kwus-e. hea-kow. sle-kwiil-tung-e. stlai. stlai-kdn. sttai-skwai. stle-hung-c. stle-kwai. 180 B QEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. English. Skidegate Dialect. I'- Second finger Little finger Finger-nail Knuckle Space between knuckles. Rump Leg. Leg above knee Knee Knee-pan Leg below knee Calf of leg Ankle Ankle-bone Instep Foot Sole of foot Heel Toe Large toe Fourth toe,..;.... Toe-nail Blood Vein or artery. .. Brain Heart Kidney Lung Liver Stomach Rib Pulse Vertebrae Spine Foot-j int Intestine stl-kwo-da stl-kivun itl-tam-i-re stl-ke-ta-se stl-hut kial til kwul-lo kwul-oo-ka-run-ye kiatl-ka-nm kiatl-koic sta-kwul-tiny-e tam-a-re sta-oona stai stuk-a-run sta-kwai sta-kiing-e , sta-kwun-e , sta-kwo-ta sta-kwun kai kai-ins-ki-a ka-sin-tsin-a kou-ga hl-koo-hoo-whe . tl-kwul ke-tzi he-we tsoo-i. . std-sil. lan-S. . Masset Dialect. stlai-ok-se. stla-ot, stla-kwun. stl-tum-ai. stlooL kwuio. tel. kwul-o-lcutz. kwul-o-hdl. kiatl-koio. stai-kwool-tiwj-ai. tunt-ai. sta-oon. kl-stai. stai-kan. sta-kwo-se. stuk-uny-e. sta-kwai. sta-ot. di. ai-ins-ki-a. ka-sin-tzuny. kook. tl-xai. tl-koo-whe. kitz. he-w6. stlai-hai-hll-tung. tsoo-i, ke-tzdt. sai-sil-e. slan. The following words expressing relationships, were obtained for me by the Rev. Mr, CoUison, of Masset, and were written down by him in conformity with the usual English mode of pronouncing the vowels. I have thought it best not to attempt to bring it into uniformity with the rest of the vocabulary by transliteration. — English. Masset Dialect. \V^if« Hiiid bv husliand chd or shcL. Husband said by wife tla-hal. "1 QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 181 B English. Son said by father Father said by son Son said by mother Mother said by son Daughter said by father Father said by daughter Daughter said by mother Mother said by daughter.., Younger sister said by elder brother Elder brother said by younger sister Younger brother said by elder brother Elder brother said by younger brother Younger brother said by elder sister Elder sister said by younger brother Younger sister said by elder sister Elder sister said by younger sister Elder son's wife said by father Husband's father said by wife Elder son's wife said by mother Husband's mother said by wife Hider daughter's husband said by father Wife's father said by h usband Eldei' daughter's husband said by mother Wife's mother said by husband Younger son's wife said by father Husband's father said by wile Younger son's wife said by mother Husband's mother said by wife Younger di*ughter's husband said by father . . Wife's father said by husband Younger daughter's husband said by mother . Masset Dialect. keet. haung. kin. away. keet. Imh-ta. keet. oway. chas-toon. da-i. toon. quia. tOOTi. chas-i. toon-ay. qui-ay. keet-cha. tlah-al-haung. keetquia-cha. tlah-al-ow. keet-quia-tlahaU cha-haht. keet-quia-tlahal. cha-ow. keet-toon-cha. tlalial-haung. keet-toon-cha. ow-tlah-al. [hal. n-chada-keet-toon-tla- cha-haung, [^hal. n-chada-keet-toon-tla- if ft . .;i ;! :j ' English. Orphan Father whose children have iilldied .. Still-born child God Soul Devil Medicine-man Doiid body Tomb-house Hox for the dead Hat (any covering for head) . Head-dress of feathers Skideoate Dialect. Masset Dialect, tl-kin-git-d. ge-tul-ing-hai-loo-a. ko-da-ka-tlug-a. suti-l-a-tlai-dus. ka-tlun-dai. hai-de-tdn-a. skd-ga. tl-ko-da. sa-tling-un-nai. sa-tliny-un. ta-tsung. hl-tun-wd. I 'I t i. % IP ' III' 182 CtEOLOOtOAL SUKVElY OP CANAt)A. English. Mask Medicine-man's necklace of bone Loin-cloth, or breech-clotli ... Moccasin Blanket Paint, black " red " yellow Tattoo marks Tattoo marks on arms Buckskin » Beaver skin Otter skin Awl, of bone Sinew Thread, of sinew Thread, of skin Pole lodge Slab lodge Doorway of lodge Smoke-hole Mat Bed Fire Blaze Living coals Dead " Ashes Smoke Soot Fire-place Fire-wood Poker Half-burnt brands Bow of wood Bow-string Arrow Notch in end of an'ow (for bow-string) Arrow-heatl of bone vtIUB • • •••••• •■••••• Quiver War-club War-spear Fish-spear Armour of sea-lion's skin — Helmet of same material . . . . Skideoate Dialect. ni-xungioa. hl-ki-sta-ije. hl-kit-kl-kl-tje. stal-kun-(ji. gitlt. hai-da-mas-n. mesh. * kun-thdh. ki-dd. hia-M-da. lohoon. tsoon-kid. nai-ke. klt-ul-koiv or kwo-stlin hai. hai-ihul-ga. kai-tlul. nas-koo-sil. na. kiu. ki-nit. il-gush. tai-dun. tsa-no. ko-ha-gung. tas. stun. hl-tul-hait. kai-oic. hid-kat. tsan-oo-dan. tsan-oo. kin-i-hl-toiv. kdt-hul. tl-kit. slan. kung-al. slo-sta-mi. skoods-i-ta-bmg. xa-tl. how-it- kwo-de. shid-ze. xatl. ki-to. xit-as-ko. skutl-tad-zung. •] QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 183 B English. Canoe Drum Pish-line Line, of kelp Fish-net Fish-hook Pipe, of Htoiie Pipe-8tem, of wood Clip Large wooden dish Bowl Stone mortar Stone pestle Fire-drill Horn ladle Axe Adze Knife Knifo-handlc Knife-point Knife-edge Knife-back Sci'aper Morer Woman's fish-knife Flour Moat Nat ive tobacco Stow Doll Wooden rattle Hong ik'avor Bear, (grizzlv) " (black) Ciiribou •><»« Deor I'.rmine (ioat (mountain) ..., Mouse (wood) Molo..." Marten Otter Sea-otter Porcupine Squirrel (red) Wolf Skidkoate Dialect. Moo. how- gin tl-'jai. ka-tlioo. ta-whul. skads-oot-la. kwai-skack-oic. skadl-ho. kai-tla. kn-nil-o. ta-ro. ta-ro-tsunci. hl-kai-ge. skood-sla-gul. kitl-xow. ho-ta, skon\ skoio-gi-gue. skoic-kai. skow-ko-na. skow-skwe. katl-ka-tla, ka-tul-o. ta-ka-do. hul-kn-a-his-ta. ki-ra. hai-da-kuml-ra. ki-a-huls-a-goo-da. git. slu-sha. ska-lung. tsung. hoots. tan. xis-koo. ha. kat. klik-a. mut. si-ang. ka-gvn. koo-hoo. sli-goo. koh. owh-te. tcs-ga. koo-dze. fS;i: 184 B OEOLOOICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. English. Weasel F«-og Whale (whale-bone) Whale (killer) Porpoise Seal Fur-seal Antlers Bone (of animal).... Claw " Dung " Entrails " Fat Gullet " Hoof " Hair " Heart " Joint " Lungs " Bluejay Crow Raven Crane Duck (mallard) Eagle (white-hea<^led) Grouse (blue) Goose (Canada) Gull Humming-bird Loon Owl.... Pelican Pigeon (sea) Swan Shag Teal (green-winged) . Woodpecker Beak or bill Mouth (of bird) Tongue (of bird) Wings Claws Egg Shell of egg Yolk of egg Whiteof egg Dog-fish Halibut , Skideoate Dialect, kU(i-a-sM-da. [lias tl-kun-ko-stal, or louh- kwoon. ska-goot. shvul. hoot. kwoun. kwa-i-hil-kian. skood-ze. stlrkumn, na-re. stlan-e. kai-joo. ka-gin-zoo. sta-koon. tl-kow. koo-ga, koo-lo. tl-koo-koo-whe. klai-tlal. kaltz-da. ho-ya. hl-ko. ha-ha. koot. skew. hl-ki-foon. skin. ka-tsi-ta-tsoo-a, tOrtl. kut-kwun-es. skai. ska-tung-a. tl-whoon. kel-o. chi-goots-rid. sbots-a-da. koo-da, het-le. tang-il. Mai. ta-koon. kaw. hl-tul-ga-re. xis-kai-de-gai. xik-a-de-gai. ka-hud-a. hah-ko. ' • vni QUEEN CIIAKLOTTE ISLANDS. 185 B >«l ■. -'ill ,ilf '-1''! English. Skidegate Dialect, Salmon, (hook-bill) .... " (small rod),... « (dog-tooth) .. " (largest) Trout Shark Herring Flounder Oolachen Pollock Mackerel Cod Large-headed cod Sculpin Cardium Clams (small species), Clams (large species). Mussel " (large) Eock cod (red) '« (black) Crab (common) " (large rough).... Octopus Sea-urchin (large) " (small) .... Star-fish Skate , Mouth (offish) Eye (of fish) Gills Breast fin , Belly fin Back fin , Tail fin ;>'ales Hciring eggs , Salmon " Halibut " , Ant Bee Flee , Fly Mosquito , Spider Bud of tree Leaf Branch 13 tai-e. tUrhlt. ska-gi. ta-nin. ta-tlut. ka-hut-ta-ow-ga. v-nung. tal. sa-ow. skill. skillrte-ga. stai-dai. ska-gai. kai-ye and kla-ma. skial. ka-ga. skow. kul. ta-haaio. skun, kits-ha-lang. ko-stan. koo-ga. noo. kl-un-ga. kai-oots-ai-ool-ta. ska-um. xi-tra. Xin-e-he-ili. kin-e-hung-e. Xl-in. xin-i-hia. hun-i-luri. tl-koon-a. stai. hull. koio. XI. hah-ko-kled-a. koot-ls-ka-how. skdl. skai. kicid-Jiai-gwun. tshi-kul-di-gwa. kicot-2i-a. skans-a-skin-an. hil. Mas. 186 B OBOLOGIOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. English. Skidegatk Dialect. Outside bark Inner " Trunk Stump Eoot Main roots Leaves of spruce Clouds Sky Horizon Sun Moon Half moon Crescent moon Stars Shooting stai* Aurora Eainbow Fog Frost Snow Hail Ice Icicle Water Imago reflected by water Foam Wave ■ Current Eddy Eain Thunder Lightning Wind North wind North-east wind East wind , South east wind West wind North-west wind Whirlwind The ground Dust Mud Sand Salt Stone North hits-gun-til. Jel-na. tsoo-e. kwul-re. hllng-a. skoos-run-da. hl-kung-wa. kai-ow. yen. kwaist-sin-wash. tzoo-re. kung. kung-in-we. kung-hi-hatl-a. kai-tza. kai-tzoon-a-re. yun-ko-ka. kxoot-sa-kwo-kun. yen-in-tung-wa-ta. kuJrOong-tal. ta-ow. ka-tsa-lung, kulri-ga. ta-di-stil-goon. kun-tl. klig-a-hons-e. skwul-ro. loo. tzoo-a and kwoh-ying tzoo-kw6-tluL mil. hi-ling-a. skut-ka-ulrta. ta-jow. hioio. kwo-still. ka-di-sta-ka-doo. hlio. , korhoost-a-ga. kli-gist-koonst. ta-dzo-kai-re. tl-ga. kin-wkoo-lung. Xan. tds. tang-a. hl-kd. kla-hoos-ti-ga. QTTEEN CHARLOTTC ISLANDS. 1P7 B English. Skidegate Dialect. Bast.. South West.. Black Blue Brown Grey Green Eed Vermilion . . . White Striped Check Spots One Two Three Pour Five Six Seven Plight Nine Ten Eleven Twelve Thirteen ..... Nineteen .... Twenty Twenty-one . Twenty-two , sun-dlung-hil-ga. xioo je-we-kai-geun. Twenty-three Twenty-four ,. A year A moon Half of the moon New moon Half moon Day Night A day (twenty-four houre). Dawn Sunrise Noon Masset Dialect. hldrhl, ' kin-hlilh. sus-ln-dil. hlal-kln-dil. ohlh. si-et. mns. ut-ta. ses-a-ki-dung. tsa-um-a. hlal-kordis. swdn-sung. stoong-a. tl-kwun-ihl. Stan-sung. kle-lhd. kloo-un-ihl. sik-xi'd. sta-Sn-siing-a. kloral-swan-sin-goo. kldl, kldl-wok-sw dn-s ung. kldl-wok-stoong. kldlwok-tl-kwun-ihl. kldl-icok-stan-sung-a. lug-ws-wdn-go. [sung. lug-ios-wdn-ivok-swan- lug-ws-xodn-ivok- stoong. lug-ics-icdn-wok-tl- kxoul-ihl. lug-ws-wan-wok- stan-sung. sim-kina. kung-kais-gh. kung-kais-kin-oe. kung-ke-dldng. kung-in-oe. ut-ka-gun. al-gd. , . , iin-siodn-sin. sand-lin-hait. ,' ■; sing-di. .. I sin-tut-za. . 'm "'■■^1 188 B QEOLOaiOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. English. biK SuriBot Midnight Day before yesterday Yesterday To-day Now Past time Futiu'elime One man Three men Fewmen Many men One woman ^ One dog Two dogs Three dogs . Few dogs .... Many dogs . All the dogs English. Cat Horse Saddle Axe Auger Awl (of metal). Hand-drill Broom Comb Knife (pocket), Knife Fork Hammer Iron kettle Tin plate Scissors Table Pistol Flint gun Kamrod Cannon Bullet Powder, Skidegatb Dialect. Massbt Dialect. sing-i-a. al-yak. ' urdahl-tal-ist. a-dahl. ai-yut. et-an. ■■■■ • a-wahl. — kwai. ■ • • ■ hai-da-swdn-mng. hai-da-kwun-ihl. hai-da-koio-ga. hai-da-hwan-ga. nish-wa-da-swan- sung. ha-swan-sung. ha-stin-ga. ha-whun-ihl. ha-ge-ki-whit-zoo. ha-kwan-ga. ha-ge-wa-tloo-gun. Masset Dialect. toos. kaiu-tin. tvohl-git-ldn-oo. kiutl-tzmv. klal-kow. kit-il-koiv. tl-kVa-ka. tl-ki-ak-tdlo, tl-ki-tlun-ga. yatz-kwt-kwung-a. yd-tza. kut-torow. kl-il-hld. ts-tlang-oo. ki-kla-tl-tld. tsai-to. kit-td-tin-e. tzook-koo-kwoot-zoo. tzook-koo-ke-gang-a. tun-std-o. kwan-tow. klas-ka-kit-ta. o-klrtd-oiv. Eemarkh. Corruption of puss. Chinook. Long handle. Knife that folds. To lift food. Bai'ns fast. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 189 B English. Skideqate Dialect. Iron Load Silver , Cap or hat. Coat Vest Shirt Trousers ... Boots Slippers Stockings Shawl Dress (gown) Match (friction) Tobacco Whiskey Finger-ring Mirror Saw Picture Paper Road Interpreter Peace-maker between stran- gers . yi-e-dzi. xi-guil-huL tal-hkd. ta-tsung. xit-is-Jcoo. sko-stow. whal-tis-koo, koon. ska-tl-koon. stas-kai-ge-tl-ka-dla. hil-a-hul-ta-ow. kun-tai-giat. tl-kit-kie. ta-koon-tloo. kwul. kln-tat-kds. stil-gie. ham-hang-oo. heo. ki-gun-i-ja-go. kil-ka-lan-oo. kieu. IsJia-hi-da. ha-la-wun-i-shush-ki- kl-kuns-ti-gul-shoo. Remarks. Speech written down ^VK:. .(.'•1' •' ,'> ,:. ■,'■■'1 ■'' ' ■*■ Tr» -!,<-7.-.l" "'» ;■■■ ■ ; 190 B QSOLOOIOAL SURVET OF CANADA. APPENDIX C. ON SOME MARINE INYERTEBRATA FROU TBI QUEEN CHAELOTTE ISLANDS. BY J, F. WHITEAVES. The whole of the specimens belonging to the species enumerated in the following lists were collected by Dr. G. M. Dawson and his brother, Ml'. Eankine Dawson, in the summer season of 1878, on the eastern coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, along its whole extent, and off the northern extremity of Graham Island, between Virago Sound and North Island. With the exception of a few and for the most part common littoral forms, which were found to be very generally distributed, it has been thought desirable to place on record the exact locality and station at which each species was obtained, by dredging or otherwise, although the doing of this has necessarily involved some reiteration which might otherwise have been avoided. For valuable notes on the echinodermata and corals, and for the descriptions of new species of Archaster and Solaster, the writer is indebted to Prof. A. E. Verrill, of Yale College. Mr. W. H. Dall, of the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, has kindly examined and identified some of the smaller and more critical species of mollusca. The Crustacea collected by Dr. Dawson on the coast of Vancouver, as well as at the Queen Charlotte Islands, have been reported on separately by Prof S. I. Smith, of Yale College, A curious fact, established by these collections, is the occurrence at the Queen Charlotte Islands of several species of marine mollusca previously found only much further to the southwards, and hitherto supposed to be peculiar to the Californian fauna. The most notable of QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 191 B aerated in 8 brother, 10 eastern it, and off Sound and on littoral , has been station at , although on which id for the writer is I. Dall, of Qined and allusca. ''ancouver, ported on urrence at moUusca i hitherto notable of these are Leda coelata, Hinds ; BryophUa setosa, Carpenter ; Mitromorpha filosa, Carpenter ; Odostomia straminea, Carpenter ; Lamcllaria Stearnsii, Dall ; Volutella pyriformis, Carpenter ; Amphissa versicolor, Dall. Among the corals, too, the only locality previously known for Paracyathus caltha was Monterey. The following is a list of all the species recognised so far, but the foraminifera, hydrozoa, and polyzoa, of which a rather extensive series was procured, have yet to be studied : SpONGIDjE. Grantia ciliata, Fabricius. Dredged at moderate depths and at various localities on the coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, also at Vancouver. Tethea, Sp. undt. Not yet examined. Houston-Stewart Channel, in from 15 to 20 fathoms, two fine specimens. Hydroida. Allopora venusta, Verrill. Houston-Stewart Channel, in from 15 to 20 fathoms, five specimens. This species is placed in this division on the authority of Prof. Verrill. Anthozoa. BalanophylUa elegans, Verrill. With the preceding; also in 20 fathoms, at the mouth of Cumshowa Harbour, several fine specimens. Paracyathus caltha, Verrill. Same localities and depths as the last species. "Numerous specimens, of various sizes and varying considerably in form, from narrow and nearly cylindrical to broad cup-shaped." — Verrill. Ophiuroidea. Ophioglypha Lutheni, Lyman. Abundant at Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms. " These are larger than the original specimen described by Lyman, and show some variation. On the basal portion of the arms there are two tentacle-scales. The radial-shields are long oval, with the inner end pointed ; they only touch each other in the middle. Mouth-shields broad spear-shaped, the outer end broad and a little prolonged, obtusely rounded ; the side angles prominent and rounded ; the inner end trian- gular, with slightly incurved sides. Arm spines three, acute, the upper one considerably longest. The arms, towards the base, are high, '■M It: I'M '■A'-'*' 192 B GBOLOaiOAL SCRVBT OP CANADA. with a slight dorsal ridgo. Color, ash-gray above, white bolow." — Verrill. ,,-,.• , , : . , • . . OphiophoUs Careyi, Lyman. Mouth of Cumshowa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, not very common. *• Agrees with the description of the original typo." — Verrill. The correctness of the identification of this and of the preceding species has also been corroborated by Col. Lyman, to whom specimens of bof were sent. Amphiura urtica, Lyman. Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathomn. Several small specimens. Determined by Prof. Verrill, who remarks concerning them : " They have few small spinules on the plates near the edge of the disk. The under arm-plates are squarish, with a notch on the outer edge, as in the original specimens." ASTERIOIDEA. Asterias epichlora, Brandt. (?) Littoral, and appai-ently not very common. " Rays tive. Spines of dorsal surface evenly distributed, nearly equal, rather long, somewhat enlarged and sulcato at the tips, and sni rounded, above the base, by a thick wreath of minor pcdicollari Adambulacral spines in two rows, slender. Ventral spines long stouter, obtuse, sulcated at tips, foi-ming four close rows." — Verrill. Asterias ochmcea, Brandt. The most common of the littoral species collected. Asterias hexactis, Stimpson. mark. Found sparingly at or near low-water Jjeptasterias. (" Near L. Mulleri and Z. tenera.") Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms, several small and poorly preserved specimens. "Eays five, slender. Adambulacral spines slender, mostly i\iO to a plate. Lateral and dorsal spines slender, not crowded." — VeiTill. Pycnopodia helianthoidea, (Brandt.) Stimpson. Below low-water mark in Skidegato Inlet, but rather uncommon. Solaster Stimpsoni, Verrill. Sp. hov. Beach at Eamsay Island, five or six specimens. " This species is allied to S. endeca of the North Atlantic. It has a smaller disk and longer rays, usually ten in number. One of the larger dried specimens has the radius of the disk 1-25 inches ; of the rays 4 to 4*50 inches. Color of the disk and base of rays, above, light red ; lower QUE£N CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 193 B eurfaco yellowish. The rays are long, round, regularly tapered. Upper surface covered with clusters of smull blunt spinuloH or paxillo), mostly six to eight in a group, on the rays; and ten to twelve on the disk, whore they are more crowded. In smaller specimens there are fewer spinulcH in the clusters. These spinules are larger, stouter, more obtuse and more numerous than in S. endeca. On the lower side the interbrachial spaces are smaller than in S. endeca, with fewer l)lates, each of which bears a close group, usually of four or Hvo taper- ing spinules, rather larger than those of the dorsal surface, and much stouter and fewer than the corresponding spinules o'." S. endeca. The plates forming the lower margin of the disk are less prominent than in S. endeca ; and each bears a transverse group of about twelve to sixteen spinules, similar to those of the sides and under surface of the rays* Along the grooves each adambulacral plate boars on its inner end two small, short, tapered spines, which form a longitudinal row, and outside of these a transverse row of about eight, much longer and larger, tap" crod spines, with rough, blunt tips. These are stouter, less acute and less I'ough than those of 6'. endeca. The oral plates bear six strong and rather long spines at the inner end, the middle ones longest. These flro stouter and not so long as those of S. endeca. " This is, possibly, the form called Asterias endeca, var. decemradiata by Brandt (Solaster decemradiatus Stiinp). But Brandt gave no description whatever." — Verrill. Solaster Dawsoni, Verrill. Sp. nov. Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms, one specimen. " Of this species I have seen but a single dried specimen, with twelve rays. Radius of the disk, -80 of an inch; of the rays, 2*10. It has the general appearance and proportions of S. endeca, as seen from above, but resembles Crossaster papposus beneath. The plates of the upper surface and their clusters of spinules are even smaller, more numerous and more crowded than in the former species, there being usually ten to twelve minute and short spinules to each plate. The plates, when denuded of spines, are small, rounded and convex. The marginal plates are prominent, and each bears a prominent transverse group of nxiraerous, small, slender spinules, forming two rows of about twelve to fourteen each. The interbrachial spaces, beneath, are very small and narrow, with few plates, each of which bears a group of three or four slender spinules. These spaces are very much smaller than in S. decemradiatus, and still smaller as compared with S. endeca. The adambulacral plates bear a longitudinal group of three, rather long, slender spines on the inner end, and outside of these a transverse group of four or five, scarcely larger ones. The oral plates bear six •nap 194 B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA, e>-' long, blunt spines, the middle ones longest. The adambulacral spines especially the inner ones, are much larger and longer than in S. endeoct the latter u ually having but two very small inner ones. " Asterias affinis and A. alboverrucosa Brandt are probably a single species of Solaster or Crossaster, but the descriptions are very brief and imperfect. The former was described only from a figure of a young specimen. Both are one inch in diameter of disk. Both are described as having ten rays, with large scattered clusters of dorsal spines ("papillae"), and as resembling C. papposus. The number of rays cannot be regarded as a specific character. They may really belong to C. papposus." — Verrill. Cribrella keviuscula, Stimpsou. Common, from low-water mark to 15 or 20 fathoms. Dermaster imbricatus, Perrier. (==Asteropsis imbricata, Grube, 1857. A. Agassiz, North American Starfishes, IS^T ; p. 106, pi. xv., figs. 1-7.) A rather common and brilliantly coloured, littoral species, found at sevei'al localities. Asterina miniata, Brandt. (Sp.) Near low-water mark, abundant locally. Mediaster cequalis, Stimpson. Beach at Eamsay Island, one fine specimen only. Archaster Daicsoni, Verrill. Sp. nov. " A large species, in form resembling A. tenuispinus of the North At- lantic. Eadius of the disk, -OS ; of rays, 4 inches. The rays are long, flat, regularly tapered. The upper surface is loosely covered with small tubercles, bearing only circular groups of veiy minute, short paxillsB toward the margins of the rays ; but along the middle region of the rays and over the disk bearing a long, tapering, acute central spine, surrounded at base by a circle of small paxilltc ; between the plates there are, over the whole surface, numerous pores. Along each ray, toward the marginal plates, there are, at irregular intervals, singu- lar groups of small incuiwed spinules ; usually three or four clusters, each cluster consisting of a row of three or four spinules, form one group ; the ends of all the spinulew converge to a pore in the centre of the group. The upper marginal plates are small but prominent, and each bears a long, rather stout, acute, erect spine, surrounded at base by a group of slender, unequal spinules. The lower marginal plates mostly bear three long and large divergent spines, the upper one largest, and rather longer than those of the upper plates ; between and around their bases there are slender spinules. The adambulacral plates bear upon J. ■i ■■I"':: !' QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 195 B the inner edge a rounded group of about six very slender, blunt spine?, the two lateral ones very short, the middle ones long ; outside of these there is a transvei-so row, usually of three much longer and larger, blunt spines." — Verrill. Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms, one fine, living specimen. ECHINOIDEA. Dendraster excentrbm, Valenciennes. (Sp.) Beach in Virago Sound. LoxecUnus purpuratus, ^ixiav^&oii. (Sp.) Near low-water mark and in shallow water, common. Some of the specimens ai-e six inches and a quarter in diameter. Strmgylocentrotus Drobachiensis (Muller) A. Agassiz. Masset Inlet and elsewhere, at low tides, with the variety chlorocentrotus, Brandt. Abundant. Brachiopoda. Laqueus Califomicus, Koch. Fifty fathoms, mud, off Metla-Katla, a few dead shells. Terebratella transversa, Sowerby. {T. caurina, Gould.) Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms ; Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15-20 fathoms. Common, living, and of large size, at both local- ities. Lamellibranchiata. Zirplwea crispata, Linnajus. Beach north of Cumshewa Harbour, a large, worn, right valve. i Saxicava rugosa, Lamai'ck. Dolomite Narrows and Masset Inlet, first expansion. Mya truncata, Linnaeus. Dolomite Narrows and beach between Virago Sound and North Island. Cryptomya Calif omica, Conrad. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, one valve. Necera pectinata, Cai-ponter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, and Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms; one specimen from each locality. Kennerlia filosa, Cai-penter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, three specimens. Thracia curta, Conrad. With the j,receding, one example. Lymsia Califomica, Conrad. One young, living specimen, from the same locality as the two last-named species. ^grav / I' « , •'.•t' 1 -f 196 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Entodesm.asaxicola,'RvAv6.. Eocks at low water. Mytilimeria Nuttalli, Conrad. With the last species. ■Siliqua patula, Dixon. Beach between Masset and Eose Point, several dead but very perfect and well-preserved shells. JPsammobia rubromdiata, Nuttall. Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, one dead shell. Macoma inquinaia, Deshayos. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, one specimen. Macoma sabulosa, Spenglor, var. Dixon Entrance, Q.C.I., in 111 fathoms, three examples. Macoma inconspicua, Brodorip and Sowerby ? Large variety. Yirago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, one perfect shell and a single valve. Macoma Carlottensis, Nov. sp. Fig. 1. Macoma Carlotteruu, left valve, nat. size. Shell small, moderately inflated, thickness rather more than one- half the height, inequilateral; valves slightly flexed to the right posteriorly ; test thin and fragile. Anterior side produced, evenly rounded at its extremity, and nearly twice as long as the posterior side ; posterior side short, much nari'owcr than the anterior, subcuneiform, sloping convexly and abruptly from above downwards, and at last forming a subangular junction with the ventral margin below. Ventral margin gibbous in advance, ascending and much straighter behind. Beaks small, moderately prominent, incurved, and placed considerably behind the middle. Ligament short, external. Surface glossy, marked by very fine, close-set, concentric striations, and by a few, distant, lines of growth. Colour of young shells trans- lucent and often opalescent white or whitish. The lower portion of adult shells, when in good condition, is covered with a thin, pale ashcn- gray epidermis, and the shells themselves are often tinged with a pale grayish or brownish hue. Eight valve with two minute, widely diverging, cardinal teeth ; left valve with a single, very small, narrowly triangular tooth, which QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 197 B under the lens appears to be grooved down the middle ; lateral teeth obsolete or nearly so. Pallial sinus profound, rounded at its extremity, and reaching beyond the centre of the valves. Dimensions : — Length of an adult specimen, 6 lines ; height of the same, 4J lines; thickness through the valves, 3 lines. Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms, abundant. Mcera variegata, Carpenter. Dolomite ^Narrows, common ; mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, several. Standella falcata, Gould. Shore near camp between Virago and North Island, two single valves. ' dementia subdiaphana, Carpenter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, a large single valve. Psephis Lordi, Baird. Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms, and Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms. Venus Kennerleyi, Eeeve. Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, many, but mostly small ; Dolomite Narrows, and Hoc. .on-Stewa]'t Channel, in 15-20 fathoms, not so common. Tapes stanmea, Conrad. Shore between Virago and North Island, Dolomite Narrows, and 8 to 15 fathoms in Vii'ago Sound. Saxidomus squalidus, Deshayes. Common at several localities. Cardium Nuitalli, Conrad. Abundant, and of very large size. Cardium blandum, Gould. Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, and Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms ; mostly small, single valves. Astarte semisulcata, Leach? One dead valve, in 20 ftithoms, off Metla- Katla. Astarte Esquimalti, Baird. (=Rhectocyma mirabilis, Dall.) Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, severi.!. Miodon prolongatus, Carpenter. Dolomite Narrows, abundant; mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, several ; Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, three or four specimens. Venericardia borealis, Conrad, and var. ventricosa, Gould. Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms, four specimens; mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, many, living ; Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, three ; off Metla-Katla, in 50 fathoms, and Dolomite Narrows ; common, but of small size. lucina filosa, Stimpson. Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms, a large- single valve. ' M «r 198 B GEOLOGICAL STTRVET OF CANADA. JJucina tenuisculpta, Carpenter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, five small, living specimens. Cryptodcm flexuosus, Montagu. Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms, three perfect specimens. Cryptodm &erricatus, Gould. With the last; also mouth of Ciimshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, and Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms ; one living shell from each of these localities. Diplodonta orbella, Gould. Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, plentiful, but mostly single valves ; Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, one dead but perfect shell. Kellia suborbicularis, Montagu. Dredged, living, at several localities. Turt(mia minuta, Fabricius. Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms, one lax'ge, single valve. Lepton rude, Nov. Sp. «' Lepton rude, Dall" M. S. Fig. 2. Lepton rude, left valve, nat. size. Shell rather small, equivalve, inequilateral, tumid, but not quite as thick as high, most swollen on the postero-latoral and antero-lateral umbonal slopes, depressed in the middle, the depression extending from the beaks to the ventral margin ; test thin and fragile. General outline subtrapezoidal, length much greater than the height base concavely and shallowly emarginate; superior border broadly compressed convex, sloping gently downwards posteriorly, and rather more rapidly so in advance ; posterior and anterior ends subtruncatc more or loss obliquely above and rounded below ; postei-ior side some- what longer than the anterioi-, and rather more pointed at its extremity below. Urabones broad and depressed ; beaks compressed latei-ally, eroded, moderately prominent, curved forwards, and placed a little in advance of the middle. Posterior area ill-detined, indicated obscurely by an oblique and abrupt compression of the valves above and behind a rounded ridge or swelling, which runs in the direction of a line which might be drawn from the liinder side of the beaks to the posterior termination of the ventral margin. This ridge or prominence is QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 199 B tolerably well defined in the umbonal region, but becomes obsolete in the middle of the shell. Lunule none ; lunular region abruptly and obliquely compressed or inflected. Surface marked by coarse, crowded and irregularly disposed, concen- tric wrinkles or raised striae. As viewed under an achromatic micros- cope, with^an inch and a half objective, the shell is seen to be covered in places with an exceedingly minute, angular and irregular network of raised wrinkles and radiating striae. Colour : — Dark rusty-brown on the exterior of the valves (possibly due to the ferruginous nature of the mud or sand in which it lived), whitish on the beaks and umbones. Interior, porcellanous white. Dimensions of the only specimen collected: — Length, 10 linos; height, scarcely t ; thickness, 5 lines. Locality : — Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms. One fine speci- men, the largest known, perfect and well-preserved on the outside, but with the interior of the valves much eroded and exfoliated, and the hinge teeth badly broken. This well-marked and very distinct species has long been known to Mr. W. H. Dall, whose M. S. name for it has been adopted here. The specimens in Mr. Dall's possession are from Alaska and Monterey, so that the species appears to have a wide range on the west coast of North America. Tellmya tumida, Carpenter. Dolomite Narrows, four gootl specimens. Mytilus edulis, Linn^us. Dolomite Narrows, &c. Mytilus Califomianus, Conrad. Beach in Houston-Stewart Channel. Modiola modiolus, Linnaeus. Low-water to 10 fathoms, common. Crenella decxissata, Montagu. Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms. A single, very large example which measures nearly three lines in length by two and a half in height. Axiruea septentrionalis, Middendorf, var. subobsoleta, Carpenter. Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, abundant and alive ; also Houston-Stewart Channel, north of Prevost Island, in 15 to 20 fathoms, where many specimens were obtained. At the Queen Charlotte Islands only the smooth form of this species has been observed. Nucula tenuis, Montagu, var. lucida, Clould. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, several living specimens. Nucula (Acila) Lyalli, Baird. With the preceding; also channel opposite Seal's Head Island, in 70 fathoms. 200 B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Leda coslata, Hinds. Houston-Stewart Channel, in from 15 to 20 fathoms, a single but characteristic loft valve. The most north- erly locality previously known for this species was the neigh- bourhood of San Francisco. Leda minuta, Miilier. Channel opjiosite Seal's Head Island, in 70 fathoms. Several specimens, apparently, of a very large, tumid form of this species. A number of examples of the variety caudata were dredged off Metla-Katla, in 20 fathoms of watei\ Yoldia lanceolata, J. Sowerby. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, several living, but small ; also one valve, in 20 fathoms, off Metla- Katla. Bryophila setosa, Carpenter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, four tine living specimens. Hitherto known only from Cape St. Lucas, and between San Diego and San Pedro, California. Pecten Jastatus, Sowerby. With the preceding, also Houston-Stewart Channel, in from 15 to 20 fathoms; a single small specimen from each of these localities. Hinnites gujanteus, Gray. Fi'om several localities, common. Plfl.cunanomia macroschisma, Deshayes. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, and elsewhei-e, common. Gasteropoda. Tornatina eximia, Baird. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, seven specimens ; Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms, two or three doad shells ; Dolomite Narrows, one dead shell. Cylichna alba, Brown. Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms, two specimens. Siphonaria Thersites, Carpenter, var. One living specimen. Dentalium Iiidianorum, Carpenter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, one dead shell. Mopalia ciliata, Sowerby. A common littoral species, of which two examples of the typical form were collected, and three of the variety, or subspecies, Hindsii. Mopalia Wossnessenskyi, Middendorf. Two examples from low-water mark. Cryptochiton Stelleri, Middendorf. Beach at Skincuttle Inlet, also rocks at low-water in Houston-Stewart Channel. Katherina tunicata, Wood. Common at several places, living on rocks at or near low- water mark. V- i QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 201 B )ecimens. Abundant, living, at and below low-water max-k, in several localities. Tonicella marmorea, Fabricius. Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, two specimens. Tonicella lineata, Wood. Low-water, at several localities. Chcetopleura Hartwegii, Carpenter. Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, one small specimen. Ischnochiton interstinctus, Gould. With the preceding, also Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, and Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms. Ischnoraclsia trifida, Carpenter. Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 29 fathoms, one specimen. Lepidopleurus Mertemii, Middendorf. Frequent, living, in Houston- Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, and at the mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms. Acnuea mitra, Escholtz. Acmcea (CoUisella) pelta, Escholtz. Acmoea (CoUisella) persona, Escholtz. Acmoea ( CoUisella) piatina, Escholtz. Acmoea (CoUisella) patina, var. scutum. Cryptobranchia concentrica, Middendorf. (=Lepeta coecoides.) Two living specimens, in 20 fathoms, otf Metla-Katla. GlypMs aspera, Escholtz. Cumshewa Harbour, in 50 fathoms, two living and three dead shells. Fissurellidcea bimaculata, Dall. Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, two dead examples. Punctwella cucuUata, Gould. Virago Sound, in 8 to 16 fathoms ; mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, and Houston. Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms. Puncturella galeata, Gould. With the preceding species. Ilaliotis Kamtschatkana, Jonas. On rocks at low-water at Houston- Stewart Channel and elsewhere. This species was collected also by Mr. James Eichardson at the Queen Charlotte Islands in 1872. Pachypoma gibberosiim, Chemnitz. Common on rocks at low-water mark. Leptothyra sanguinea, Linnaeus. Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, several ; mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, common ; Dolomite Narrows, a few. Chlorostoma brunneum, Philippi. Carpenter Bay, on fronds of Macrocystis, common. 14 ■■■>:■ 202 B OBOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Calliostoma cancdiculatum, Martyn. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, four living but small specimens. •..,;,',. CcdUostoma costatum, Martyn. Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms ; Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, and elsewhere ; very common. CalUostcnna annulatum, Martyn. Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, two specimens. Phorcus pulligo, Martyn. Adult and common on fronds of Macrocystis in Carpenter Bay. Young but living shells of this species wore dredged also in 15 to 30 fathoms in Houston-Stewart Channel and in Dolomite Narrows. Gibbulafuniculata, Carpentei*. One living specimen, the exact locality of which has been forgotten. Margarita pupilla, Gould. Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, and mouth of Cumshowa Harbour, in 20 fathoms. Margarita lirulata, Carpenter. Dolomite Narrows, five living shells ; and Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, three examples. Margarita helicina, Montagu. One young, living specimen; exact locality and station unknown. Crepidula navicellmdes, Nuttall ; var. nummaria, Gould. Mouth of Cum- shewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, on dead shells, &c., frequent. Crepidula adunca, Sowerby. Two living specimens; exact locality and station unknown. Galerus contortus, Carpenter (fide Dall). Mouth of Cumshewa Har- bour, in 20 fathoms, common ; and Vix*ago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms, rather scarce. Hipponyx cranioides, Carpenter. One living adult specimen; exact locality not known. Ccecum crebricinctum, Cai"penter. Dolomite Narrows, one ; dead. Mesalia reticulata, Mighels. Off Metla-Katla, in 50 fathoms, five specimens. Bittiumfilosum, Gould. Common. Littorina Sitchana, Philippi. Rocks at low-water, at Hot Spring Island ; also shore between Virago Sound and North Island. lAttorina scutulata, Gould. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, two dead shells. , ... . Lacuna por recta, Carpenter. Island, one dead shell. Shore between Virago Sound and North ""i vl!»' QU£EN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 203 B Lacuna f var. eotxequata, Carpenter. Beach at Virago Sound, one small specimen. Alvania reticulata, Carpenter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, rare. Alvania compacta f Carpenter. Dolomite Narrows. " Found also in Japan." — Dall. Fenella pupoidea, Carpenter ? (or Eissoa, Nov. Sp.) Mouth of Cum- shewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, one live adult shell. Drillia incisa, Carpenter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, two spe- cimens ; one very large, " The most northern locality yet known for this species."— Dall. Mangelia sculpturata, Dall. M. S. S. With the last-named species, but very rare. Bela fidicula, Gould. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, three speci- mens ; channel opposite Seal's Head Island, in '70 fathoms, one large, living shell; and Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms, one dead specimen. Bela Trevelyana, Turton (teste Dall). Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, one dead shell. Mitromorpha filosa, Carpenter. Mouth of Curashewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, three fine specimens. The only previously recorded localities for this species are Santa Barbara and Lower California. Odostomia straminea, Carpenter. From the same locality and station as the species last named. One young example. Odostomia Sitkensis, Dall. M. S. (" but this may=0. inflata Cpr.," Dall), Dolomite Narrows. Scalaria Indianorum, Carpenter. Shore between Virago and North Island, one dead adult shell. Cerithiopsis tuberculata, Montagu (teste Dall). Dolomite Narrows, one dead shell; Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, three specimens. Trichotropis cancellata, Hinds. Off Metla-Katla, in 20 fathoms, three live shells; also dead on the beach of the coast between Virago Sound and North Island. Lamellaria Steamsii, Dall. Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, one dead shell. The only specimens known besides this are the two types of the species which were collected by Mr. Dall on the beach at Monterey in 1866. Natica clausa, Broderip and Sowerby. Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms, two dead shells. ^JV 204 B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. •i . Lunatia Lewisii, Gould. Frequent, living, and of largosizo, at several localities on the eastern, and especially near the northern end of the islands. . . . . ■,..., Priene Oregonensis, Eodfield. Two specimens, the exact locality of which has been forgotten. Volutella pyriformis, Carpenter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, three living shells. Not hitherto recorded to the north of Snu Francisco. Olivella biplicata, Sowerby. Beach between Virago Sound and North Island, dead shells only. Olivella boetica, Carpenter. With the preceding, and in the same worm and bleached condition. Nassa (Niotha) mendica, Gould. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathomw, abundant; Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, two dead shells. Beach between Virago Sound and North Island. Amphissa versicolor, Dall. Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, seven specimens ; mouth of Curashowa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, three dead shells. In describing this species, Mr. Dall says : — *" I have not seen specimens from north of San Francisco, and Monterey is its headquarters.'' Amphissa corrugata, Eeeve. Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms, abundant and alive. Purpura crispata, Chemnitz. Common everywhere, and very variable both in form and sculpture. Purpura canaliculata, Duclos. Same station and locality as the preced- ing, but much scarcer. Purpura saxicola, Valenciennes. With the last species, apparently not common. Ocinebra lurida, Middendorf. Mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms, and Houston-Stewart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms. Ocinebra inierfossa, Carpenter. Virago Sound, in 8 tfe 15 fathoms, and mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, in 20 fathoms. Cerostovia foliatum, Gmelin, Fine living specimens of this species were obtained on the rocks, near low-water mark, at many places. Nitidella Gouldii, Carpenter. Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms, five specimens. * Amerioan Journal of Conchologr. Vol. vii., 1872; p. 114. ' ' ' amo wovm QUEKN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 206 B Trophon tennisculptus, Carpenter. Houston-Stowart Channel, in 15 to 20 fathoms; also Virago Sound, in 8 to 15 fathoms. Trophon Orpheus ? Gould, (Young.) Mouth of Cumshew^ Harbour, in 20 fathoms. . Chrysodomus dims, Eoovo. Hocks at low-wator mark in Houston- Stewart Channel, eight living shells. Chrysodomus Harfordii, Stearns. One adult, living specimen from the same locality and station as the last-montioned species. Annelida. Nicomache lunhricalis, Malmgren. Dixon Entrance, in 111 fathoms — (VerriU.) Stertiaspis, Sp. ("Very much like S. /ossor."— Verrill.) Virago Sound, in from 8 to 15 fathoms. 206 B aXOLOOIOAL ^UBYXT OF CANADA. •1 APPENDIX D. i1 1 NOTES ON CRUSTACEA OOLLECTID BT DR. a. M. DAWSON AT VANCOUVER AND THE QUEEN CHARLOXTl ISLANDS, BY S. I. SMITH. ■M BilACnYURA. ITeterograpsus nudus Stirapson. Pteudograpmt nudua Dana, Proceedings Acud. Nat. Sci., Philadelphia, 1861, p. 249 (3) ; United States Exploring Expedition, Crust., p. 338, pi. 20, iig. 7, 1852.— Stimpson, Journal Boston Soc. Nat. Hist., Ti., p. 469 (29), 1857. Cyclograptui marmoraiui White. last of Crust. British Museum, p. 41, 1847 (no description). BeUrograpiui marmoratut Milne-Edwards, Annales Sci. Nat., III., ix., p. 193 (159), 1863. Heterofraptut nudut Stimpson, Proceedings Acad. Nat. Sci., Philadelphia, 1858, p. 104 (50). A fine male epecimen from near Victoria, Vancouver Island. Sitka is given by White as the locality for one of the specimens in the British Museum. It is abundant upon the Oregon and California coast. Fabia subquadrata Dana. Two specimens from the Queen Charlotte Islands, shore; and ono from "Houston Stewart Channel, Q.C.I., June, 1878, inhabiting cavity of large mubsel." Cancer magister Dana. Canetr irroratui Randall, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sci., Philadelphia, Tlii., p. 116, 1639 (not of Say). Canetr magitttr Dana, United States Exploring Expedition, Crust., p. 161. pi. 7, flg. 1, 1852.— Stimpson, Jour. Boston Soc. Nat. Hist., vi., p, *68 (18),1867. ^ QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 207 B Mtkuareinut magittar A. MilDe-Edwards, Annslei Sci. Nat., IV., xrift., p. 33, M(<,. 1861; op. cit., y., 1., p. 67, 1864; Noavell* Archirat Mui. Hlit Nat., Parla, i., p. 201, pi. 19, fig. 1, 1865. A Urge oarapax from the Queen Charlotte Islands. Cancer productus Randall. Randall, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sci., Philadelphia, viii., p 116, 1839.— Dana, United States Exploring Expedition, Crust., p. 1S6, pi. 7, flg. 3. — Btimpson, Jour. Boat. Soo. Nat. Hist., vi., p. 461 (21), 18S7. CanuT p4rlattu Stimpson, Proceedings California Acad. Nat. Sci., i., p. 88, 1866. Virago Sound, IS to 8 fath. ; mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, 20 fath. ; and ihallow dredging ; all from the Quoen Charlotte Islands. Cancer antennarius Stimpson. Btimpson, Proceedings California Acad. Sci., i., p. 88, 1866; Jonr. Bos. Soo. Nat. Hist., vi., p. 442 (22), pi. 18, 1867. 7 Platyeareintu recurvidetu Bate, in J. K. Lord, Naturalist in Vancouver Island, ii., p. 269, 1866. Small alcoholic specimens from Virago Sound, 16 to 8 fath., and 20 fath., mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, Q.C.I. A dry carapax from the same group of islands (no special locality given) is 83 '°"- long and 133 broad. TricJiocarcinus Oregonensis Miers, Tricocera Ortgonemii Dana, United States Exploring Expedition, Crust., p. 299, pi. 18, fig. 6, 1862. Trichocareimu Oregontntit Miers, Proceedings Zool. Soo. London, 1879, p. 34 {Tricocera De Haan, 1833, preoccupied). A young specimen from Vancouver Island, and the carapax and chelipeds of a larger specimen from the Queen Charlotte Islands. These specimens agree with Dana's description and figure, except that the teeth of the postero-lateral margin are more indistinct than shown in his figure, some of them being nearly or quite obsolete. In all the larger specimens which I have examined, the dorsal surface of the carapax is rougher and the aroolets more protuberant than in email specimens, and in very small specimens the carapax is nearly smooth and regularly convex. A small specimen, dredged by Mr. J. Richardson in the Gulf of Georgia in ISTB, and referred to by Mr. Whiteaves as Trichocera Oregonensis t on my authority (Canadian Naturalist, Vol. viii., No. 8, 1818), appears to represent a distinct species. I have seen another and much larger specimen of the same form from Washington Terri- tory, collected by J. G. Swan (Smithsonian Institution). In this species the antero-lateral margin of the carapax is strongly upturned, 208 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. and its teeth are broad and m contact at their bases. The frontal and hepatic regions and the anterior part of the branchial are smooth and flat or concave, but there are three very high, wart-liko prominences on the gastric region, of which the two anterior are larger and mark the protogastric lobes, while the smaller is in the median line and behind them ; there ai'e similar, but posteriorly less distinctly circum- scribed protuberences on the jiosterior part of the branchial region ; and the tops of all the protuberances are ornamented with smooth mammillary granules, which are large anteriorly but gradually loose the mammillary character in the rough and granular posterior regions of the carapax, which dilfer much from the antei'ior and middle regions, which are very smooth, except on the flattened summits of the gastric protuberances just described. Telmessus serratus White. White, Annals Mag. Nat. Hist,, xvii., p. 497, 1846 ; Voyage of Samarang, Crust., p. 14, pi. 3, 1848. — Dana, United State« Exploring Expedition, p. 303, pi. 18, fig. 8, 1852. There are three specimens of Telmessxis from the Queen Charlotte Islands : two small males, in alcohol, from shallow dredging, and a dry and broken female much larger than the males. The female agrees very well with White's figure and is about the same size as While's specimen, though of the opposite sex. The larger of the two males agrees with Dana's figure and description, except that the median teeth of the front ai*e not quite as acute and prominent, projecting only very little beyond the lateral. The tooth forming the lateral anjle of the carapax is much more prominent than in the female. The smaller male dilfors from the larger in having the antero-lateral margins of the carapax nearly parallel, and the tooth forming the lateral angle i-olativcly even much more prominent than in the larger male. These difterencos are shown in the following measurements of the carapaces of the three specimens : — J ^ ? Length, including frontal spines 66 ™» 20-3 66-5 Breadth in front of lateral teeth 5-7 19-4 660 Breadth, including lateral teeth 8-9 25-3 82-2 The ditt'oronces are apparently duo to the age of the specimens, and I think there can be little doubt that White's specimen and Dana'ss were of the same species. Whether the T. cheiragonus described by Tilesius and by Brandt, and T. acutidens Miers (ox Stimpson), are also of tiie same species, I am uncertain. The synonymy in this genus is still in great confusion, and the relations of the difterent forms can be made out satisfactorily only by careful examination of a largo series of specimens. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 209 B Oregonia gracilis Dana. Oregonia gracilis Dana, United States Exploring Expedition, Crust., p. 106, pi. 3, fig. 2, 1852 (^). Oregonia hirta Dana, ibid., p. 107, pi. 3, fig. 3, 1852 ( ? ). ? Oregonia longimara Bate, Proceedings Zoological Society London, 1864, p. 663, 1865 ; in J. K. Lord, Naturalist in Vancouver Island, ii., p. 267, 1866. Virago Sound, Q.C.I. , 15 to 8 fath., also Vancouver Island. The series of specimens is sufficient to show that the two forms described by Dana are sexual and belong to one species, the gracilis being based on the adult male and the hirta on the two forms of the female. In the characters of the rostral spines and the rest of the carapax, all the lai-ger males before mo agree with the doscrijitiou and figures of gracilis, while in the same characters the females agree with hirta, and the smaller males arc more or less intermediate between the two foi'ms. But among the females themselves there are two forms: all the adult and fertile specimens having the abdomen very broad and nearly oi'bicular, while in other specimens (most of them small, but some of them as large as the smaller of those with orbicular abdomens) the abdomen is much narrower and elliptical, as shown in Dana's fig. 3 b. The smaller of these latter females are, perhaps, merely immature individuals, but the larger are apparently truly dimorphic, sterile females, such as are found in many genera of Brachyura, and here, as in most similar cases, the larger of the sterile individuals show consid- erable approach to the male in the form of the carapax, etc. In the largest male before me the morus of the chelipeds reaches very nearly or quite to the tips of the rostrum, and, in this respect, agx-ees with Bate's 0. longiviana, though the chelipeds are not nearly twice as long as the carapax, if the rostrum is, as it is usually, included in the length. Bate makes no allusion to the size of his specimen, and describes it so imperfectly that it is not easy to determine its affinities with certainty.* • It may be well to remark here that there had Rpparently been an admixture of specimens from some region or region.^ far south of Vancouver Island, in the coUojtion which served as the bnsis of Bate's chapter on " Vancouver Island Crabs " in the work above referred to, and that this fact also adds to the difficulty of dotormininK the species there described. Bate him- self remarked upon the minnling of northern and southern forms in the "Collection, but he docs not seem to have suspected any mistake in rcunrd to tlie localities from which the specimens came. I am aware that many tropical and subtropical marine species extend far north alonn tlie Pacific American coast, but it is scarcely conceivable that suca an assemblage of species as Bate's list indicates should exist in any one faiinal rcKion. The list contains not only tropical Pacific American species but also Central and South Pacific, and even tropical Atlantic species. Some of the incongruities may, however, be due to wrong identifications, as in the case of the (ViVwiinn'ic* about to be mentioned r but, making all reasonably supijosablo allowance for mis- takes of this kind) there is still sufficient evidence of a mixture of specimens from different faunw, to throw doubt upon the authenticity of the sujiposed habitats of many of the new species in in the region of Vancouver Island of any of the following Mr. Lord's collection. The existence species (all of ful ; — Erlphia Hemigrapmu m 210 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. ,*1 Jl .i\ Pugettia gracilis Dana. Queen Charlotte Islands, shore ; and shallow dredging, Port Simpson to north end of Vancouver Island. Scyra acutifront Dana. Two males from near Victoria, Vancouver Island. Another male specimen agreeing well with these was collected at the same locality by Mr. E. Middleton in 1876, and is referred to by Mr. Whiteaves, on my authority, as '• Scyra, sp. undt." (Canadian Naturalist, Vol. viii., No. 8, ISTS.) All these specimens are much larger than the ones described by Dana, and differ much from his description and figures. The specimen collected by Mr. Middloton differed so much that I at first supposed it must represent a new species, but the specimens col- lected by Dr. Dawson show a nearer approach to Dana's figures, and I now think there is little doubt that Dana's description and figures were based on females and young males, and that the sjtecimens before me are the fully adult males of the same species. In the specimens before me, the lamelliform rostrum is very much ex- panded laterally, so that it is as wide, or even considerably wider than, the width of the front between the prseocular spines, and the lobes are much less divergent anteriorly than shown in Dana's figure. The protuberance upon each branchial region is elongated and excessively developed, and posteriorly it projects so much as to overhang the lateral margin of the carapax. The anterior cardiac protuberance is tubercular and obtuse and fully as high as the branchial protuber- ances, but separated from them and from the large gastric protuber- ance by a broad and deep depression ; the posterior cardiac protuberance is small, but conical and conspicuous. The whole gastric region is protuberant, and separated from the branchial region, on each side, by a deep and narrow cervical groove. The posterior gastric elevation is large and obtusely tubercular, while the anterior is small and conical. The chelipeds are proportionably much larger every way than in Dana's specimens, and the lamelliform crest on the propodus is much broader. The differences in the chelipeds, and partially also those in the cara- pax, are shown by the following measurements of the specimens collected by Dr. Dawson : — " Cenohilet" Dxoaenfi- plain eridenoe of a mistaite in ttie idenunoation, for Mier§ U'roceedinirg zooluglcal Hooiety. London, 1877, p. fifiS, pi. 66, fig. 4) has described and figured u speciex, as ("ibanariut Lordi, iaid Clibanaritu Hniatui (Milne-Edwardi) is also given, but there la nbw a mistake in the identifloation, for Miers (Proceedings Zoological Sooieti' to hare been colleoted at the same locality as Bate's C. h'nenhi*, and prenented to the British Museum by Mr. Lord, and Miers states that the specimen was labellea Clibaiiariui Hneatui.hni that it is oertainl; rot the speoiei described under that name by Milne-Edwards and figured by Dana. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. Length of carapax, including rostrum 36-8 ""^ 390 Oreatest breadth between margins 34-T 16-8 " " " branchial protuberances 27-3 29-5 Length of rostrum from base of prsaocular spine. . 90 10-3 Qreatest breadth of rostrum 7-7 90 Length of merua in chelipeds 320 28-5 Length of propodus 31-0 370 Length of dactylus 150 165 Breadth of dactyluB 10-5 12-5 211 & Anomura. Hapalogaater inermis Stimpson. Btimpson, Annals Lyceum Nat. Hist. New Tork, Til., p. 243 (116), 1860. I refer to this Bpecies, with some doubt, a single female from the shores of the Queen Charlotte Islands. The chelipeds are not described by Stimpson, but in the specimen before me they are very unequal, the right being twice as stout as the left, very much less setose, and the excavated fingers are entirely without horny tips. Eupagurus granosimanus Stimpson. Stimpson, Annals Lyceum Nat. Hist. New Tork, vil., p. 90 (44), 1859. Several dry specimens, most of them very small, ft-om near Victoria, V.I. I think it not improbable that this species will prove to be synonymous with E. Middendorffii Brandt. Brandt's species was described and figured from a specimen considerably larger than the specimens examined by Stimpson or those before me, and it very likely is only the fully adult form of Stimpson's species. Eupagurus tenuimanus Stimpson (ex Dana). One specimen from shallow dredgings, Port Simpson to the north end of Vancouver Island. The propodus of the larger cheliped is fully as broad as in Dana's specimens, but the inner edge is less sharply dentate and the outer edge less strongly curved. There is no doubt of its identity with Dana's species, however. There are several small specimens of Eupagurus from 15 to 8 fath., Virago Sound, 20 fath., mouth of Cumshewa Harbour, and from Hous- ton Stewart Channel, Q.C.I., which are distinct from either of the above species, but they appear to be immature and are not easily determined. Paguristes turgidus Stimpson. Eupagurui turgidui Stimpson, Proceedings Boston See. Nat. Hist., tI., p. 89^, 1867. CUbamariut turgidui Stimpson, Journal Boston Soc. Nat. Hist., vi., p. 484 (44), pi. 21, fig. 1, 1867. hgr:pp 212 B QEOLOQICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. J 1 Pagurittea turgidut Stimpson, Proceedings Acad. Nat. Sci., Philadelphia, 1868, p. 236 (U), 1859 ; Annals Lyceum Nat. Hist., New York, vii., p. 86 (40), 1859. Not in Dr. Dawson's collection, but a large male was dredged in the Gulf of Georgia by Mr. J. Richardson in 1875. Macrura. Gehia Pwjettensis Dana. A male 85 """• long, shore, Queen Charlotte Islands. 'Crangon vulgaris J. C. Fabricius ex Linnd. Crangon nigricauda Stimpson. Crangon nigromaculata Lockington. Crangon Alaikensis Lockington. A single dry and broken specimen from Vancouver Island. Nectocrangon lar Brandt (ox OAven). Two males and three females from Yancouver Island. The specimens are all dry and in rather bad condition for a careful comparison, but they all differ considerably from any Atlantic speci- mens which I have seen. In the specimens from Vancouver, the rostrum and the spines of the dorsal carina of the carapax are longer and more slender than in specimens from olf Nova Scotia and from the Gulf of 3t. Lawrence. In the Vancouver specimens, the dorsal carina on the third, fourth and fifth segments of the abdomen is broad and rounded, or flattened, and scarcely reaches the posterior edges of the segments, and the two carina; upon the sixth segment are rounded and fade out in the same way befoi-e reaching the posterior extremity of the segment ; while in the Atlantic specimens referred to, the carina upon the third, fourth and fifth segments is acute, and on the fifth segment projects from the posterior margin in a more or less conspic- uous triangular tooth, and the cai'inaj on the sixth segment are acute and continue to or a little over the posterior extremity of the segment. These differences may possibly indicate distinct geographical species. Paracrangon echinatus Dana. Vancouver Island. Jlippolyte Gaimardii Milne-Edw;i ds. Ilippolyte Qaimardii Miliie-Edwards, Hist. nat. des Crust, il., p. 378, 1837. Jlippolyte pandaliformis Bell, History of British Stalk-eyed Crustacea, p. 294. [1850?] Ilippolyte Belcheri Bell, in Belcher, Last of the Arctic Voyages in Search of Sir John Franklin, vol. ii., p. 402, pi. 34, flg. 1, 1856. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 213 B A single dry female specimen from Vancouver Island appears unquestionably of this species. It is about SS"""- long ; the carapax, including the rostrum, 13-8"""' ; the rostrum, *7"3. The dorsal carina is armed with six tooth, of which three are on the rostrum, and there are thi"ee teeth in the lower edge of the rostrum. Hippolyte spinus White. Cancer ipinua Sowerby, British Miscellany, p. 47, pi. 23, 1805. AlphauB spinus Leach, "Edinburgh Encyclopedia, vii., p. 431, 1813-14," (Miers), American edit., vii., p. 271 ; Transactions Linnean Soc. London, xi., p. 347, 1815. Bippolyte Sowerbai Leach, Malacostraca PodophthalmatA Britannias, pi. 39 1817. Bippolyte spinus White, List Crust. British Museum, p. 76, 1847. Bell History of British Crustacea, p. 284 [1847?]. Hippolyte spina Stimpson, Proceedings Acad. Nat. Sci. Philadelphia, xii., p. 34 (103), 1860; Annals Lyceum Nat. Hist. New York, x., p. 126, 1871. There are seven dry specimens from Vancouver Island, and two in alcohol from shallow dredging, Queen Charlotte Islands, which agree well with Atlantic specimens of this species. Hippolyte Phippsii Kroyer. Hippolyte Phippsii Kroyer, Naturhistorisk Tidsskritt, iii., p. 576, 1841 ($). Hippolyte turgida KrSyer, ibid., p. 575, 1841 ( $ ). Hippolyte vibrans Stimpson, Annals Lyceum Nat. His*. New York, x., p. 125, 1871 (J,«ar). Hippolyte Ochotensit Brandt, Middendorif's Sibirische Reise, ii., p. 120, pi. 6, fig. 17, 1849(?). A female from 15 to 8 fath., Virago Sound, Q.C.I. Length, 32°""- ;. length of carapax, including rostrum, 11-6 ; rostrum, 5-2. The dorsal carina of the carapax and rostrum is armed with eleven teeth, of which the three posterior are the larger, situated near the middle of the carapax and separated considoi-ably from the one next in front, which is just over the base of the rostrum ; the remaining teeth are succes- sively nearer to each other toward the tip, which is itself tridentate. There are in addition four teeth on the oblique anterior part of the inferior edge of the rostrum. The dentition of the carapax and rostrum is thus seen to approach pretty closely to Brandt's //. Ocho- tensis, and yet the specimen appears to bo unquestionably specifically identical with the well-kuown Atlantic species, so that I have little doubt that Brandt's species is only a variety of the female of I/.. Phippsii. KV 214 B GEOLOaiOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. '!•' : u Hippolyte brevirostris Dana. Dana, United States Exploring Expedition, Crust., p. S66,pl. 36, fig. 5, 1862 (given as H. curvirottrit on plate). A dry female specimen about 24"'°- long, from Vancouver Island, agroes well with Dana's figure and description. JSippolyte Oroznlandica Miers. Astacus Orcenlandicui J. C. Fftbricius, Systema EntomologiaB, p. 416,1775; Entomologia syetematica, ii., p. 484, 1793. Cancer aculeatut 0. Fabricius, Fauna Oroenlandica, p. 239, 1780. Alpheu* aculeatut Sabine, in Supplement to Appendix of Parry's (first) Voyage, p. ccxxxviii., pi. 2, figs. 6-8, 1824. Hippolyte aculeata J. C. Ross, in John Ross, Appendix to Narrative of a Second Voyage in Search of the North-west Passage, p. Ixxxiii., 1836. Hippolyte armata Owen, Voyage of the Blossom, p. 88, pl. 27, fig. 2, 1839 ( ? ). Hippolyte comuta Owen, op. cit., p. 89, pl. 28, fig. 2, 1839 ( ^ ). Hippolyte Grcenlandica Miers, Annals and Magazine Nat. Hist., IV., xx., p. 62 (12), 1877. A female, 44™'°- long, from shallow dredging, Queen Charlotte Islands. Fandalus Dance Stimpson. Stimpson, Proceedings Boston Soc. Nat. Hist., vi., p. 87, 1857; Journal Boston Soc. Nat. Hist., vi., p. 602 (62), pl. 21, figs. 6-7, 1857. Several small dry specimens from Vancouver Island, and an alcoholic specimen from shallow dredgings, Queen Charlotte Islands. The last specimen is74'"'"- long; the carapax including rostrum, 33"""- ; rostrum, lt*5°""'; there are ten teeth in the dorsal crest, half being on the rostrum and half upon the carajiax, and in addition there are three at the tip and five beneath the rostrum. In general appearance, and particulai-ly in the form and dentition of the carapax and rostrum, this species approaches very near to P. platyceros Brandt (Middendorff's Sibirische Eeise, ii., p. 123, pl. 5, fig. 20, 1851). But, according to Brandt's desci'iption, the carapax of the platyceros is clothed with short hairs, while in the Darus the carapax and abdomen are smooth and entirely naked. Pandalus pubescentulus Dana. An alcoholic specimen from " shallow dredging, Port Simpson to north end of Vancouver Island." The specimen is 49'""- long ; the carapax including rostrum, 25 ; rostrum, 14. There are fourteen teeth in the dorsal crest, five on the carapax and nine on the rostrum ; the extremity of the rostrum is unarmed above except at the tip, which is '■ ''I QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 215 B bidentate; boneath it is armed with oight teeth, which extend to the CUMAOEA. Diastylopsis, gon. nov. The species for which this genus is proposed is very closely allied to Diastylis in the structure of the appendages of the cephaloportoon and in the structure of the ploon, but it differs from Diastylis, and, as far as I know, from the heretofore described genera of Cumacoa, in the con- solidation and great expansion of the tergal and cpimertil portions of the third and fourth free segments of the perason, which forms an arched shield-like plate nearly half as large as the carapax. The basal seg- ments of the second pair of gnathopods (third maxillipeds) are more expanded distal ly and form a much more complete oral operculum than in Diastylis. The cephalopei-ajon, also, is much moi-o elongated and more compressed laterally than in any described species of Diastylis. Diastylopsis Dan mi, sp. nov. Female. — The cephalopcrteon is considerably longer than the pleon, <;ompressed laterally so that the breadth is little more than a fourth of the length, and the part made up of the free segments is fully as wide and as high as the carapax. The carapax is more than twice as long as high and smoothly rounded above, though the dorsum is compressed somewhat anteriorly. The eye is obscure or wanting, and the anterior lobes of the carapax extend far in front of the ophthalmic lobe and form a prominent and acute rostrum. There is a deep antennal sinus (much deeper than in the species of Diastylis) in the anterior margin below the rostrum and bounded inferiorly by the prominent dentiform antero-lateral angle, back of which the lateral maigin is dentated for a short distance. The entire surface of the carapax, as well as the dorsal surface of the free segments of the perteon, is perfectly smooth, naked and highly polished, but there are four nearly equidistant, faintly indicated transverse lines crossing the anterior half of the carapax and evidently marking the areolation so conspicuous in some species of Diastylis. The first and second of the five free segments of the perason are short and nearly or quite covered each side by the third segment, which is itself short above but greatly expanded each side into a large plate a third as long as the carapax ; the dorsal part of the fourth segment is greatly elongated, and lies between and above the lateral prolongations of the third segment; and the tergal and cpimeral portions of these two segments are anchylosed or closely united together, so that the U-shaped suture between them is only » li >vV 516 B OEOLOaiCAL SURVE'? OF CANADA. faintly indicated. The fifth segment is small, and nearly covered each side by the lateral expansions of the fourth. There are two slender submedian spines upon the ventral side of the tifth segment, and there is a similar single median spine on the first segment of the pleon. The antennulre are short, the peduncle reaching scarcely beyond the rostrum ; the first segment is stout and about as long as the second and third together, the second is short and stout, and the third, or ulti- mate, about half the diameter of the second but longer than it ; the major flagellum is slender and about half as long as the peduncle ; the minor flagellum is little longer than the first segment of the major, and is apparently triarticulate. The rudimentary antenna is scarcely longer than the first segment of the antennula, but has the penultimate segment elongated to about four times its diametei-, while all the other segments are very short. The first gnathopods (second maxillipeds) are nearly as in Diastylis, but are very long and slender, and the basal segments are but little stouter than the terminal. The second gnathopods reach a little beyond the tip of the rostrum : the basal segment in each reaches to the antero-lateral angle of the carapax and is very much expanded distal ly, so that the two together completely close the space between the lateral margins of the carapax ; the inner angle of the distal end projects in a very prominent and acute tooth, and the inner edge is margined with short plumose seta^, but the outer surface is smooth and naked like the carapax ; the ischium is very short and fully twice as broad as long ; the merus is about twice as long as the ischium, not more than half as broad, and bears on the middle of its oiiter margin a very long plumose seta; the three distal segments are very slender, subequal in length, and each is considerably longer than the merus. The tip of the flagellum of the exognath reaches slightly beyond the middle of the basis of the endopod itself. The first perroopods are slender and scarcely as long as the second gnathopods, the tip of the carpus not quite reaching the distal end of the basis of the gnathopod ; the ischium is scarcely longer than broad, the merus twice as long as the ischium, and the three distal segments subequal in length and each a little longer than the merus. The tip of the flagellum of the exopod does not reach the extremity of the basis of the endopod. The second perasopods reach but little beyond the middle of the basis of the first pair, and the exopod is about as long as the endopod. The sternum of the third free segment of the perteon is broad and greatly elongated to correspond with the lateral portions of the segment, so that the two anterior pairs of perajopods are separated by a considerable space from the succeeding pairs. The QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 21*7 B third, fourth and tifth pairw of porwopods aro short and as in the species of Diasiylis, except that the coxal segments of the third pair are very broad, about four times as broad as high, and closely fitted to the corresponding segment of the peneon. The pleon is cylindrical and »lender throughout, very much nar- I'ower than the cephalopera^on, and the segments increase slightly and regularly from the first to the sixth. The telson is shorter than the sixth segment, swollen for the proximal half its length, then suddenly narrowed into a slender terminal portion Avhich is armed either side with about five or six very slender spiniform seta), and at the tip with two styliform seta) nearly half as long as the telson itself The peduncles of the uropods arc slender, not quite twice as long as the telson and armed along the distal half of the inner margin with approximately ten very long seta;. The inner ramus is narrow, about half as long as the peduncle, composed of three segments, armed along the inner edge with approximately twelve slender spines, at the tip with a larger spine, and along the outer edge v/ith a few seta>. The outer ramus is a little longer than the inner, slender, and armed along the outer edge and at the tij) with setiform spinules. The telson and uropods are more or less imperfect in all the specimens examined, and do not admit of very exact description. All the males examined are immature and of about the same size as the females. They differ from the females, as in the species of Diastylis, "n having rudimentary exopods on the third and fourth perseopods and in having rudimentary appendages upon the first and second segments of the pleon. The specimens examined show scarcely any differences in the telson and uropods, but these differences would probably be developed in more mature individuals. A female gives the following measurements: — Length from rostrum to tip of telson i22"""' Length of cephaloperieon along dorsum 6-7 Length of carapax along dorsum 4-2 Greatest height of carapax 20 Greatest breadth of carapax 1-8 Length of 3rd and 4th free Bcgments of per;eon along dorsum 1-8 Length of pleon to tip of telson 5-6 The few specimens of this very interesting and pretty species were all from 111 fath., T)ixon Entrance, Q.C.I. It is interesting to notice that it was associated with Synidotea nodulosa, a species before known only from the Atlantic. • 15 218 B OBOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. ISOPODA. Lygia dilatata Stimpson. One specimen ft-om near Victoria, V.I. Synidotea nodulosa Harger. Idothta nodulota Kroyer, Naturhist. Tidssk., II., ii., p. 100,1846; ia Oai* mard, Voyage en Scandinavie, pi. 26, fig. 2, 1849. Synidotea'jMdxdota Harger, Amer. Jour. Sci., III., xv., p. 374, 1878 ; Proceed- ings United States National Mnseom, 1879, p. 160, 1879. Two specimens from 111 fath., Dixon Entrance, Q.C.I. It has been found in the Atlantic from George's Banks and Nova Scotia to Green- land, but has not been recorded heretofore from the Pacific. The specimens were determined by Mr. Harger. Sphceroma sp. A small species from Dolomite Narrows, Q.C.I. It is apparently quite distinct from S. Oregonensis Dana and from S. amplicauda Stimj)- son, the only species, as far as I know, described from the north-west coast of America* Tanais ? sp. There are two dry specimens of a small Tanaid from 15 to 18 fath., Virago Sound, Q.C.I. CiRRIFEDIA. Tetraclita porosa Darwin Near Victoria, V.I. Lepas anatifera Linne Near Victoria, V.I. \ •,. ■•'■'^^^V OUEEN OHABLOTTE ISLANDS. 219 B APPENDIX B. Plants Collected in the Queen Charlotte Islands, 1878. Tho following list of plants has been prepared by Prof. J. Macoun, of Albert College, Belleville, who has kindly examined the spefcimens collected : — Eanunoulace^. Eanunculus Nelsoni, Gray. " occidontalis, Nutt. « Coptis asplenifolia, Salisb. Aquilegia formosa, Fisch. Arabis hirsuta, Scop. Cochlearia Angelica, L. CaUCIFERiE. Caryophyllace^. Aronaria peploidas, L. ; var. oblongifolia, Fenzl. Sagina procumbens, L. Portulacace^. €laytonia Sibirica, L. '• parvifolia, Mocino. LEQUM[N0S^F, Lupinus Nootkatensi.s, Donn. Trifolium involucratum, Willd. Vicia gigantoa, Hook. Lathyrus maritimus, Bigel. iSpirtea Aruneus, L. fxeum inacfophylluin, Willd. Fiagaria ChiiensiH, Duchesne. RoSAOEiE. lii... M 220 B OBOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Potontilla fragiformis, Willd ; viir. villosft, Rogol. liubuH ursinuH, Chum. NutkanuB, Mod no. spoctabilis, Pur"h. RoHa Nutkana, Prowl. SAXIFRAQACEii!. Saxifraga loucanthomifoHa, Michx. ; var. Brunoniana, T. & G. " Hiloniflora, Stcrnb. Ilouchora micrantha, Doxigl. Tiarella trifoliata, L. Crassulace^. Sodum Rhodiola, D C. " spathulifolium, Hook. Bpilobium angustifolium, L. " totragonum, L. ArchangoHca Gmelini, I) C. Galium triflorum, Mx. ONAQRACEiE. IjMBELLIFERiE. RUBIACEiE. COMPOSITiB. Aster salsuginosus, Rich, Solidago Canadensis, L. Grindelia integrifolia, D C. Achilla3a millefolium, L. ; var. lanata. Hook, Tanacotum Huronense, Nutt. Nabalus alatus. Hook. Franseria bipinnatiiida, Nutt. Campanolace^. Campanula Scheuchzeri ; var. hoterodon, Gray. Ericace^. Vaccinium purviflorum, Smith. Gaultheria Shallon, Pursh. ^ Andromeda polifolia, L. Monziesia glabella, Gray. Kalmia glauca, Ait. Moueses uniflora, Gray. QUSXN CIIAftLOTXE ISLANDS. 221 B Plantago maritima, L. Triontallrt Europoea, L. Plantaqinaok^. PRIMULACEiE. SCROPHULAEIACE^. Mimulus luteus, Willd. Castilleia pallida, Kunth. Ehiuanthus Crista-galli, L. Brunella vulgaris, L. Stachya ciliata, Dougl. ; var. pubons, Gray. BORRAQINACE^. Mortonsiana maritiraa, Don. GENTIANACEiE. Gcntiana Amarella, L., var. acuta. Hook. CHENOPODIACBiB. Betulace^. Conifers Atrij>lex Alaskensis, Wat. Betula sp. Pinus contorta, Dougl. Abios Englomauni, Parry. ? " amabilis, Forbos. ? Thuja gigantea, Nutt. Cupressus Nutkatensis, Lamb. OKCHIDACEiB. Goody era Menziesii, Liudl. Spiranthes Eomanzoviana, Cham. Corallorhiza Mertonsiana, Bong. LiLLIACEiE. Smilacina bifolia, Ker ; var. Canadensis, Gray. Fritillaria lancoolata, Hook. Carex alpina, Swartz, " atrata, L. CyP£RAC£^. :r:i :?:♦-■"- 222 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Gramine^. Agrostis eqivalvis, Trin. Festuca ovina, L. Blymu8 mollis, Trin. Aira caryophyllea, L. *' csBspitosa, L. FiLICES. Adiantum pedatum, L, Lomaria Spicant, Den. LtCOPODIAL'EjB. Selaginella rupestris ; var. tropica, Spring. Musci. Dicranum ecoparium, Hed>v. Mniam punctatum, Hedw. Funaria hygi-ometrica, L. Meesia uliginosa, Hedw. Bai . alia pomiformis, L. Hypnum loreum, L. plumifera, Mutt. splendens, Hedw. undulatum, L. HsPATICiE. Chiloscyphus polyanthus, L. Jungermannia sphaerocarpa, Hook. LiCHENES. Cladonia gracilis, Fr. 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U5 iC iO to W3 >0 to U^ Wi toiou5»oSiocc'SS^«o>oy55SS«5 >ojS *o_"^^ 'S ^i'^if^.'^ to toio JI58S-5S5i$SSSSSSS^^^SSisS?2gSSf2S SSSSaSSSi5SSMSSS8SSS8S5?ia§JM^-M. aaaa|a!aaaaaaaaaaa^a|aaa|a|^a e4dlia,(Jd<9AdsilioJu2(J^oJdcaAcJd<'3.rio°iQO CO qs t^co •e^«a ." -a QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 227 B & o »: o a a, a o o a E £3 3 ^ a ^ Ti ^ a •C B i«.n a o a A. •3 'S' S J ja > S g •- a C - 3 5-2 ; 9.2 .M ^i ca h I » a o » ® C M a cl5 o S'3-' »•- o S a H =. fl*-a°-o-3o" S 5 S « g g S-a » SS •• S-E-T)^.? J 5 ® a "^ * S 2 5 E'S" "— 4S'«±f» So P * "-2= ,.,«s 2 « o * >"•' ^ «T3 s "*..>>>> «-i3 •5 ?^ c- . 3 ® "fl a, *^ * O. •' . 'E g.S 2 " ® **"&■« |.S «13 t; M " a) ^ 2 2 >.S fe d ovoo ^ ^ 1^ I' S: :•= a : • . -.a ■S-3 -Esfga .i.ir.2i;s^.i:5|r : ja 3 3 OS- .Sf" 35 35 N ^e -ft . s 2 o • o n Pk WP^ : : : :S :S : : :S : : 5 q;5 M 02 W^JCQ rCOBM >j^ WWW t^f^^WW!/! 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Mini ::§::: V' : i. eg i:^ 1:1 ' QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 229 B wa >\ es O V o o JIJS (n CO a S -d* H •3 a " M S -JSI - g S ^ « o S >. - •- ■ - ■ ^ "' >• IB .S o a» c ^ 3 33"" -2^.2::^,: ■3'3'a.i: a s a a =i.S :'"• a " "i .ja " a) !S -D « ea .^ " W5 — ■ — - ' — bii • - :a « '/3 »-' "7 o ■d"" » > ■: £i > •95 S § « S = c .,^ = •-•-..■{; O -ki "^ -M -1-1 •« k, ^^Ts •?" " S. ••■ - >3 ® > t» J a OOSOOw6m a? Co be-^'-- H fc- Q M :t >* 33 QP^ :S ■to ■ w5 W COM CO ♦JMMM CO O CJCfi u tnd"5d oooc-o ■*o«o ^ l-H OQOOOi-oao eoNfiON (NMOIN ■^CCCOOWrHN •U5 sis .WH I . .^ Hccco 1 ^Wm cdt/j ^ Id" 5? Ui S ■s in ^« ^ ?i__«w ^ « ^ ' T 3 aaaaa Oi od fi. d Q) t- 1- 1- 1— »*^ ^- 1- 1^ « a|assaf . p. . . • • OS *Q Tg ad OvA SSa?} 88?3S58S3SS 03 H 9 •9 g C o CO o 0^ c s : J. C3 CM a : : I: o a K eg s C3 It** CO cohi fcS "^ Ot0OOO05OO'*'='OOC05O ■*« rHi-l i-HCO ^ to "2 CO ^ *• • i-H -lO ■ ■^ • • • •— * -r-^ • to ■ u5 ■ lO • * 'to -IQ :S u5 >n lO "? »o uto to »c ioj»4H u5 >o ic ic lO lo aaaslsasa^aaaaa U5 ; in S •' ■^ S^ 53 __»Au!S__u5»o _icc35_ CO-* uSiA ic** ' a "*. " ■: " cs aaaaQsacd a^ aa an a, to "-It- sa aa a^ ed a sd a cd a t-t^ t^t- t-t- toco t-t~ oooo 3 •«1 a o CO 1= = = o- - - £. a, n 3- S 4 to 3 i «- CO • H a <4 o a pn .2 "2 u? ^H r3 ■«-» -.a » ^ s-5 ^m» 230 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. 1 a •a ll t> 3 QQ sterly wind. rnoon, strong n, clear, nerally clear. HH 9— a S Co" a o-S o - «T! - herly in up chani ;btC. el fternoon ar. winds ; . ; at gun to calui T3 « =JSa-'fe;?ifc 1 Light winds Lt. winds dr Calm ; clear Moniing cal Nearly caln Fresh wt8t< puff from Light N.W. M > •'rail 5 a g }0 aamflOAV •S \y g •j9?BAi 9(»jang lO I ; I ^ sjnjuaadmax te •pnoio )o pui^ •pnoio OOOrHi-*rH CO JO ^unoniv C4 ■ pujAV JO aoio^ •pui.W JO uopoeJiQ •innraiuipj "58 s S : ^ • lO •mnmixoj\; "S s S: S3 •••IV JO ajni'Biaamax lo in "SSteSK-S 55 •la^araoanti asassa s unon a 0. 1^ o. w-i a 99 sCoioo-i-j M •ajWQ 'JO , ; ^ ! a- - - ^ o J= ■*:. . . n ■'^' ' o ^ ?« ■="- S U s M- 1 s H-3W 7. tC T3 a .S ^ •a .3 2 » .2 a M « 1 2.': a a- fc » o"^ >».a an t_. wi t»^ 2 • "^ ■= "11^3 --.25. » Sja • 1-1 rt « ■»! ft " e I" "o * J3 ■ -" - - g flat OO a.a> SSj= =2 o .. ^" « ..» . . >.sf.::— >.«:-.!:.b'C.S^tt i«3 ^"o -S "S ® 2 ..t; 3^ o ij "0 ^ w _ „ °^ «.2 o— "^ i £ * "S s M a •c * OS oi: .2 •U5 utl d M OQCQ Ophoc^^ ot-toooiot- c»oooooic^r' omoo fHC4»ocvicoc4 rHOOcoe:>oc^oo ^1 i^ S¥5';2S ^ TO io CO ^ ?6 ^ iC lO uO »i5 aaaa aaaaa^g d s d d d^ d saaaaaaaa «dsddd:ddo) (MCCCO-*- .**<«0«Dr*t.. OOOOOJOi SS53f3S ►-< 3 - te a CO v. t:"3 t-_c: a ■a: O c,. ^ 3 .3 te >^P^ c M o • ■..*!» - • ■. *-• ta O 3 M\ : : '.^ ■ to : a ;<§ « • •S o :o 03 CQ .^d*> ^^W«d u !^ sm^t- ©■MOO QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. a 5 • 5 (»■* '■O E * C 3 t?T3.S o fc-S e rP« ^" ^ > •: « u 5" a gj ^ •° ?,'3 Kg ■^!''?S .5 !3 o _a fc* » o !? 03 ^ s a O •a *j oca S e H e u .a o 231 B S !^ • S ."* II Dili •, Pi - a ".5.!; I a • r. 3-3 5) «B Q, " O flj :3o S . S^.-2 iS s o M » Sr»i = R " ■- it: £* > (— flip- _ Jfl . _ _ "Son S'C o-s •• - • :35 ■J* 5» 02 O M M OD O 1^ 03 CO t^ 03 W d M 'CO d dd d • . .t^uW 03^^ CO «3«.V . *0303(a to 03 ^«- ■«i0 «3 lO »0 iC 1/3 LO LO ^T ^* ^T* '^ T* ^^ ^t* ^** ^T^ ^^ ^^ aaaanaaaaag aa C.:3Q.asde3d:ddsd .id i^ I - 1— i-* I- 1- i>. t-- i^ t^ w <>• t^ !S3S g^?rgia ?j?i??aaa g 0.5J a ssasas R S.C9 d :: S. SSSSSaSa c^ dejd:^~CQS. aass saaaaa :jdcid cjacidoid ?3i555?:^a^SS':Mi^ a535 ^?i9.S rH I— I CI n re CC ^ ■^ lO »0 tr^ %D »- 1-« 'XJ-X, c.~- o n i— ■ <— ■ ■>! m tn c. . - • , -S : a Im D- - O CO M ■* - o • a d 3 1 a 3 1 : ; I »: : 3 in -a (3 a "3 a ^ o o M 3 3 . 4-1 O O .o. . . J ^ ■* ki a OS ■'^ a l-M u ."2 1^ ^ a> :fl 5 : a : M~ • 'Oi-H : 3t3 • s§ ; e * • ta*: o ceo 232 B GEOLOGICAIi SURVEY OF OAN.\DA. 1^ s S5 •♦-a 1 » a 'C s 1 ''howery : >ienerally overcast. Light variable wimi ; p'lly o'cast ; showers. Light winds, showery, partly overcast, Uencrs'lly clear: fresh westerly breeze. Clear: westerly wind, fresh. Clouds coming from N.W. : C. K. fair. jCalm ; overcast ; showery. iKainin»: ; overcast : easterly wind 4 to 5. S.E. wd. rising to H after midn't; gen o'cast. S.W. Trind drawing variously in channels ; decreasing ; partly clouded ; fair. IBJaq^BOAV • bt '. : ; o : ; • : : ; si : iis : : & : : : c : 1"* I . s '. t . ^ ■ ■ a -.to ■ '.H .2 : :S : «J3 : :« •J9?BA1 oowjJns! wn^BJOdraax •pnoiojo pajH m ■Id co'tsj . Mui COM J<,:c«^^co^^ ■pnoio JO lunotuy ffOCO«Oi-trHOSOO«CO •pniAV JO o^-'Oi CONCOiCO*!-*-*-*!-! •pniAV JO nopoeata •mnmmiw »^:^;og:^:^: ■ •n m •ranniixBjij o ,_, : ^ :,„ :_; '-r^-M •aa?9uiojT:a •inoH aasgsassaa ocaiad«a,:ic.cisi •0}B(I CO cc -^ -^ lO ic ^' «i t-^ r-^ O i Comox Baynes Sound Off Qualicum River Trincomalie Channel Cordova Channel Off Victoria Harbour 4t QUEEN CnAULOTTE ISLANDS. 233 B APPENDIX G. NOTES ON THE LATITUDES AND LONCJITUDES ADOPTED IN TUB CONSTRUCTION OF THE MAP OF THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS BY MESSRS. BOVEY & DAWSON. The latitudes of Houston-Stewart Channel and Skidcgatc are adopted from the Admiralty maps. The latitudes of other places depend on the following observations. In the case of observation^ on the sun the angle 5[iven is the greatest double altitude, ie. twice the apparent altitude with the diameter of the sun. Witli stars the angle notttl is also the double altitude. The index error is in all cases allowed for. LATITUDES. Observation Cove, Darwin Sound, .June 28th, 1813. Sun at noon 121" 55' 8" Resulting latitude...* 53° 35' 10" Observation Point, July 3. (At 0-15 mile N., 15" W. of south point of Shuttle Island.) Sun at noon 121° 6' 30" Resulting latitude 52° 39' 23" The above values of the latitudes of Observation Cove and Observation Poin* have been compared with each other by means of the track survey between the two places. The result is that the probable true latitude of Observation Cove is found to be 52° 35' 29" and that the latitude of Observation Point remains uncertain, but may be taken aR correct within a few seconds. 16 . 'Ill V ^. «!^^< IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) i.O I.I 11.25 lii|2S 2.5 2.2 Wht(- 1.8 U ill 1.6 j: <^ "^ yS^ ^J" ^ /a V /A ^ « iV :\ \ % m <^^ "^.V_ '^ '^ <> i .'(Ml •. i ■K' ■.'•■^^ •>. •;'V.''K--!v ■V ;,-:;i f.:: w, J* Ts- ui 1'I.AIJC \I. i' ii' MOB. MASKS USED IN DANCING. • ^^^^^T 7 .?••»■• % m Mi^^ iii > I' y Plate VII. i I e. HORN LAOLE. 7. CEDAR CANpE BALER H Nat; a. FISH CLUB. to WOODEN FISH-HOOK. ""''^ "^'S^MOO^ *ND r.OAT. ''»M fl {'late VIII, If 13 « Nat; ll rs W Nat -. n. STONE MORTAR. 12. STONE PAINT DISH. IB. STONE MORTAR. 13. 14. STONE ADZe. IRON ADZE. i'Si pi '^ L i'^* r-^' ■ ' ;. . . i' ' -i^,^. ^ , ..... .»,. -r* "■"-., 1 ' f ' 1' • • h ■' • (ft; ■ • (I ■ ,^ < ' ' »-. J j , V -l' . > r i •K • ^M ♦ ' • , ^K^I^fvp^^^^ ' ^^ "i'V. .y/'^'i;.-. ■•,.--- .]. - ■ , *■■" ' \ li ■ '-(■■- \ • \.'r': [' ' i Pl-ATir. IX. n 19 Vj Nat : •6, (7. RATTLES. 18. HORN DISH. 19. SMALL RATTLE. aO, aL SMALL WOOPEN DISHES. \m .';J, ■:..•? ^^ATE X. m ^-ii./\j 6 V, N« • 24 ^» - *'• "DANCING ORNAMENT. 33. SET OF OAMBLINQ STICKS IN UEATHEH BAQ. 24. OAMBLINQ STICKS 29 CASTANET OF PUFFIN BEAKS. 1 1 ' ', i ' ■j:j-.^'™''- ' • ■ ;-." \^ . ." ■ , "■' • -" , 1 ♦ * # 3 1 \ . ■ ' - 1*1 1 1 - , / ', ' ■' -^ ^ ' ■, ■ '"i^y '!- ■': ■■'.■■' ■ '. - ' ;■'■ . 1 . '" ■ i ._ l\'X; ■,«;■ ■■ ■'■ ■•• 1 ■ : : f 1*LATE XI. 26 37. HORN SPOON. ae. RATTLt. 28. MEDICINE MAN S CHARM. f^' fm ■"¥* — Plate XIl. '/.o Nat : SO. WOODEN TRAY. ao CEDAR BOX. 81. WOODEN DISH. I ^>lt li •.*^ < \ Plate XIII. 32 'A Nat : % Nat: 32. 33. WOODEN DISK ES. t ♦ lift ■■; '"' #> I'J^ Pi.ATK xrv. rvvV 3- Tj-." •,, I 34. ELEVATION OF PART OF FRONT OF HOUSE. 3B. ELEVATION OF FRAMING OF FRONT OF LARGE HOUSE ae. PLAN OF PART OF FRAMING OF HOUSE <»• Kwul-ki-tiung. i. Ki-watl-ka. c. KwHlt-kug-it d. Ttan-tkoo-ka-da. e. Place for lower traiuverde beam or Hunf-i./cek-i-da. /■ Carved Post. g- Ki-ttang-o. h. Door.