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LONDON: THE RELIGIOUS Til ACT SOCIETY, 5G, PATEiiNOSTEa Row ; Go, St. Paul's CflUEOHYAitD ; and 1G4, Piccadilly. 41 /■:■ / / > ^^ Ill .III, mil, '■' /'' tin iiiii) "\ ;\M.iii\i>'ii III' i4 /■'/<;( 1/41/ H'liii f ', In i/.yi my //. •',./■■/•, /I. b '/liiiiif I ll . 7 li/v ilol-l 8 riiiiim 9 I'i'xl iiin'ir 10 lyi.vliitii til'. U /','.rt/it*'iii'il III'. {Xulii'lKll II. \e\Wi'st,ni It. REFERENCES U- Ml I I InilitXli n l-i,iiil.lili.Hc. mil .\iiisQ fll/ill.\-/lllll) II o. 19 .Ir.ii v..\tiiffun> 2U \.' I'.iHl.sOt, ■n .I."!!)!' f.lo, 22. liiirfiffXn ltO,\ ii fiiiimwii. 24 /,«>r. •/«>»•<»■ 25 I'lhitiiiill. 26'l'i'i)iniii>\y.fi'.{ 27 MiiiirlfSlmi 28 I luiitiiwytU, 29 /i(/»i'(V-i-,77ti4lii 30 ('/r»>j/:'>jVTV». 31 iuUiii.ff/-l/t' CH-UfrrOtll H. //ir.sy}ttii{ T. 'I'tinilKy ^..ti.vi'iial ST J..* !./<./(/*../'« /A; RJ**(>(/«vv /•'cnir.iioSn U. C'/i*V'<',v»/i' V. I'liiui/itiU lUifrteif ' V.t.l'nioii ,f( .'/ ///^^^^ i C. ih:iiniii4-r<^' f.'urtt ^ 1 'iVi- ////// AV^H' Z lli-iioltlvn I'lUiden Sliri'iitriin t'rinnti- lii,\'lif ^lli.iiiitirlli>l\-l)-iiutv ^y,''. ,»V!;»i.» -A\ Vf?7/ - 7,vA-.' .■.Vr7,.r . fnrifirjtf! I^-QFT nrn ^ rs r— n*r r- V rs I— re r- ■*^ Ws r? '<" IS.^ el §>■> AV 1 TT r: r^i rti^gr rsigi — r^ >'^';';l>l 1 \ .\\ ^^:c\'>: AN l> I — ^r NEW-YORK &C.&C. I^OOKLYIN .\v\ ,^\^^^ HY '^•■^'^:2i*^^ . 05 ,v— tQ. « ' i . mi l * I Scale ot l''i'ft r^. S«WI AOOO 2O0O l3LG^ dlF v?*^ f^^^^^^ Mfijg ' Jtf- r~F tgaaig .m\r"^ r^ r^- [■nil r rnn 'f-TS,. I— nranr ■¥- I* I lWi«L: i;;V>.lf''^>^''-'^ ^'^'•\'ti0>' <^^\ \ •iv ^F^'^'-i^* >// .^rs ,fflr-i 23/:^ ''ifiHI. fN '^v. %^>.J m Ms •5^ $^ l*^ jl'iV ^*^< j5et'f»ni«itlu'r because thoir i'rionds liavo pjno thifhor, or bocauso tlioy purpose to do so thomsehop, what can be more important than to know sometlilng of tliG soil, climate, physical geograpliy, natural pro- ductions, population, and tenure of laud in the now liomo of themselves or their friends ? Upon all thohP [toiuts arai)le information is given. British America is daily growing in value atul importance to the mother-country. The progress of Canada in popidation and material prosperity, tho opening up to settlement of tlie fertile rogion.s of the North-west territory, the discovery of gold in Britisii Columbia, the development of the resources of all tlioso colonies, and the construction of a great high- way, tlirougli them, fi'om the Atlantic to the Pacii.c, can scarcely fail to exercise an immense influence uu the future progress of the British empire. A sketch of the stops by which these colonies have risen to their present position of prosperity and promise, will interest all who are concerned to trace the growth of our national greatness. Those who delight to discein the hand of God in history will find abundant in- dications of providential guidance in the course of events hero narrated. May gratitude for past mer- cies prompt our countrymen to a deeper sense of duty and responsibility! May Englishmen never forget that " righteousness exalteth a nation, but sin is a reproach to any people." CONTENTS. •?TT.OU,-CTION . 1 CTTArTEPt I. DIRCOVEIIY 01- ItUni.SH AMEUICA. Tlie y Tf -nipn — John Cabot — Corterp»l— French explorations— .Tacqnes Ci! I -Frobifiher, Gilbert, and nther Kn^li^h diacoverers— Spanish \' • M),( , alcnjj the western coast of North America — Captain Cook — i) ites ',1' various British settlements in North America CHAPTER 11. 'UYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AND NATVRAL HISTOKY OP BUITISH NOKTH AMFUICA. 'lountain chains— The Eocky Mountains and Sea Alps of California— AUeghanies — Blue Mountains — Water system of British North America— llivers and their valleys— Extent and boundaries of British North America — Political divisions— Climate — The different seasons, wi'"' tliMr aspects and occupations — Mineral treasures— Wild animals — iiLdd— Fishes CHArTER III. Ai )iaoryAL iniiahitants op British north America. Various aboripinal races on the continent— Names of tribes on British territoi'> — Diminution of their numbers from war and other causes- Manners, customs, and personal appearance of the aborigines — Their religious beliefs — Their dwellings, canoes, etc.— Missions among them — Strikingaddressof converted Indian— Eliot— Brainerd . 24 13 vl CONTENTS. CIIAITKU IV. CANADA. PiOl Its extent and honndarios— Phvfiicnl jrcoprnphj' of the provincft— TtH niouiilaius, Ukt'H, iiiid rivers— I'ublio >M>rka of C'atmd»: cmiihU, ruilruads, aud brid|{Cfl C^ ("IIAITKII V. IIISTOUY Ol CANADA. r.arly Fronch noltlempnfs— Champlain— La flallo— Thf |Krar<1*>tir of liin piit<'rpri«('M nnd their fHiliirp— FrKiitipr wars — W'lUt witU Kii(,'li»h ooloiiintH— Iiiijiaii foes find Mllios— Montcalm— (JoiiPrtl Woll> — Hattlft of (^iirlx'p — Atii .iciiii War of IiiHcpondcnc'P and War of IWl! — Canadiuu rebi'lliun— its (.auscs— Subse(|Uflnt legislation ^ CHAriKli VI. TOWNS, VOl'VLATION, AND KDtCATloNAL SYSTEM OF CANADA. Cliipf fnwiiM of CMiiada ; Quebpc, Miintrcal, Throp Hivprs, Shprbrooke, Ottawa, Kiii^jHlciii, Torouto, Hamilton, Lntiduu— KdiK-ational avstcm of Oanada — Uiiiversitios, oolJPiiPs, and schools — Koliuioua stalisti<'8— Population— liillueuco of Protestantism and Catholicism ou the populatiou Ill CIIAITER VII. OVEUNMENT, T'llODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE OF CANADA. Form of Kovprnmont — TaTation — Natural productions and manu- faotiired ni tides — Apricultural statistics — Acquisition of land- Mineral wealth — Fisheries— Animals, wild ami domestic— Climate^ Occupations and amuscmcnta of the Canadians— Advance of civi- lization 125 ClIAPTEU VIII. imiTlSU CENTRAL NOUTll AMERICA. Botuidarips -Extent— Physical geography— The Fertile Belt— Early settlers— Various approaches — Water communications . . .151 CllAPTEIl IX. CLIMATE AND NATUllAL rUODUCTIONS OP nillTISH CENTRAL NORTH AMERICA. Climate— Fertility— Natural productions— Minerals and metals— Flora and Fauna— Agriculture— lllustrattve iucideuta ItiU COXTENTfl. Vll CHAITKU X. PiAntY PETTi.EMriNT oi imrnsH ckntii.vl Nourit amkuu a. r.iGM History nnil prosent tint** of tho UM H'w^r >)r Soll.irlf n<'ttlpnipnt — Mixxioimrn'H in tlu' N'ortli-wrnt tiTiilorv— l^iirly trials lunl •»iilVi'riii);'«— Hi'NtiliM 111' their liiti.piirs -I'll OS i)f u->ci'uluet*~.Mi.-'nttry tDur ot' tbo liishup oi iiuperl's Laud 19!} CIIAP'ITR XI. fl!\VELl,!>0 IN IIUITISH ( KNTUAI, NOKTIt A>ffl"( \. rariouH modes of tr»vellin)»— Transit f'rDiu C'tnada to UritiHli Colunibia — C'rui^te oil LiiVo Wimii|n 1.' to Kcil lli\er— TliP (ireat Ilifjliwuy iVoiu the AtlHii'ic to tliP PiiciBi'— lis Twt iinportiiii' ^— The tiio.m.^ pro- posed fvr its Meouiplifiliiutnt 21tf ( HAriKIi XII. lltB MR TRAItr. AM» TIIi; IUDson's BAY COMJ'.VNV. Thc> fur-beiirinf aniiniils of Britith North America — Ttie Ijeuver— The miirten— The ))ear ami wolf — The wolvereeii— Ti.e racoon — Origin of the fur trade — French Fur Company — The Hudsor's Bay Company — Hitter rivalry lictwcen them— Tiio North-west Company — !)oadly iViiils hetwoen the cuifiloi/i.i of the two compuiiie.s— Lord Selkirk— Coahtion of the two eouipauiea — Termination of the charter 238 CIIArTMU XITI. BUFFALOES AND lUFFALO HrNTTNO. Vahio of the liulFalo to the Indiana — Mode of hunting' it— Xumhers killed— Bufl'alo pound — Fotiduesa of the buffalo cow for her calf- Perilous nature of the hunt -''J CIIArTER XIV. HUITISU COLUMUIA- Early history of British Columbia— Boundaries and extent— General aspect of the country — Principal rivers— The gold fields— Aj;ricultural capabilities— Forests of valuable timber — Towns— Chinese settlers— The aboriginal tribes — Missions among them — Plxtracts from Hlue Books respectmg the natural productions of the country — Fiuheries— I'rogress from 18.^9 to 180,J 271 VIU CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. 1 < TANCOUVEU S ISLAND. PIGB Ilistory — Physical aspects — Beauty of scenery— Nature of soil- Climate — Natural productions— Price of land — Agriculture—Ad- Tantages olTered to small farmers— Pi ogress 29G CHArTER XVI. NOVA SCOTIA AND CAPE BRETON. Eastern provinces of British North America— Nova Scotia— It? physical geography — Mineral wealth — Cape Breton — Soil and climate — The Magdalen Islands — Salile Island — History of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton— Population-Ckief towns : Halifax, Pictou, etc. . . .312 u CnAFTER XVII. NEW IJUUNSWICK. Its extent and bonndaries — Division into counties — Principal towns- Numerous rivers and lakes — History — Government — Edui •iti'^ri — Natural productions — Climate and soil — Forests— Fisheries — Minerals —Flora and Fauna — Aborigines — Kegulations for sale of land . . 328 CHArTER xvin. PKINCE EUWAKD S ISLAND. Favourable situation of Prince Edward's Island— General aspect- Division into counties — History of the colony — Schemes for its colo- nization—Disposed of by lottery — Government- Fisheries— Climate 339 CHAITER XIX. i I ^\ NEWFOtTNDLAND AND LABKADOH. Extent and general features— Harbours— St. John's— Occupation of inhabitants — Staple commodities — History — Early settlements — Eevenue— Aborigines — Cod fishery — Seal catching— Description of Labrador— Population — Government— Value of exports . . . 3 15 the glor Ijtbsx 363 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. INTEODUCTION. The chief end of man is to glorify God. No incense is so grateful to him as the worship of the beings he has formed. ''All nations whom thou hast made shall come and worship before thee, Lord ; and shall glorify thy nauif."* The Lord himself says of man, his noblest work, *' I have created him for my glory," and,. ** whoso oifereth praise gloriiieth me."f But the barren waste, the iminhabited desert, cannot sing praises to his name. " God created it not in vain, he formed it to bo inhabited."! All the works of God sl^.ow forth his praise, all nature proclaims his glory ; but it was given to man alone, '' the minister and interpreter of nature," to give utterance to her silent lamruacre, and to declare with intelligent voice the glory of God in his works, offering the " sacrifice of praise, the fruit of liis lips."§ JJut man has fallen from liis high estate, and by nature knows not God, and glorifies him not as God. ** Multiply, and re- plenish the earth," was a command twice given to • Psa. Ixxxvi. 9. t Paa. 1. 23. % I^a. xlv. 18. § Heb. xiii. 15. B ;, J BRinSn NORTH AMERICA. Noah and his children; but as they wardered over the world they forgot God, and served false gods of their own invention. From the regions over which the heathen savage roams, no prayer ascends, lawless violence reigns, God's image is dishonoured. It is only when man's natu. 3 is changed by Divine grace, and he is bom again in the image of the *' second Adam, the Lord from heaven," that he is once more called to be a '' priest unto God," to offer spiritual sacrifices acceptable to God through Jesus Christ. Then a new command is given him: "Go ye into all the world, and preach the gospel to every creature." It is a noble and a glorious thing when men go forth from their country on such an errand. Colonization by Christian men, not by sordid and un- scrupulous seekers for gain, or degraded outcasts, is one of the noblest undertakings in which a nation, or the individual members of a natioi:, can engage. This is a fair ideal; but how sadly does it con- trast with what has been and what is. Perhaps the nearest ap^^roach to it in the world's history was when the Pilgrim Fathers sought on American shores freedom to worship God, and kneeling together when they first landed thanked God for their preserva- tion, and resolved to devote themselves to his service, and to rule their new colony in accordance with his laws. What a striking contrast to this is the history of the Spanish colonies. The history of the con- quests of the Spaniards in America is a melancholy recoxd of injustice, tyranny, and savage cruelty, bringing in their train desolation, mourning, and woe. The condition of all the settlements planted by European countries under tho sway of Homo has INTRODUCTION. 3 been, and still is, such as to cause philanthropists as -^ell as Christians to regret that these heathen lands were discovered by men calling themselves Christians, but who were a disgrace to that sacred name. Till England became a Protestant nation she ac- ijuired no colonies ; her first settlements were planted alter slie had herself received the truth in its purity. And let us rejoice that, notwithstandhig all her faults and shortcomings, notwithstanding all the dark blots that disfigure the history of her colonies, still Britain may claim the high honour, that wherever she has planted her standard, wherever her sons have settled, they have carried with them the light of truth. In all the colonies of Britain there are just and equal laws, a mild government, and true freedom. Among those who have gone out with a merely selfish object, and the outcasts who have been sent against their will, there have been ever mingled a band of noble workers, earnestly labouring to advance the Lord's kingdom, who have carried w^'th them that Bible which has made Britain great, to enlighten and civilize the most distant lands. Britain, from her insular position, her commercial and maritime habits, and being, too, the most centra) kingdom of the habitable world (standing as it does in iiic centre of the terrestrial hemispliere), seema specially called to the work of colonization. Can it be a mere accident that she is, too, the most highly favoured of aU countries with the light and life of Itevelation, the most signally privileged with the ability, the will, and the varied facilities for dispens- ing the blessings of the gospel among all nations ? Can it be without a reference to the grand designs of ] < 4 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. providenco and of grace, that to Britain, so circum- stanced and endowed, an empire has been jj:iven on which the sun never sets? Surely it is intended hy God that the seed of the word should be sown by Britons in every one of the vast provinces under their rule. They are commissioned to "declare God's glory among the heathen, his marvellous works among all nations." Not solely on her wealth, her armies, or the enterprise of her citizens, docs Britain's pros- perity depend. Let her mission be forgotten, let God's command be neglected, — and her power, honour, and prosperity will vanish ; she will become as one of the once proud nations of old, of whom not a trace remains, except the ruins which serve as a memorial and a warning. AVho can tell how much of Britain's greatness is due to the silent working of her Bible, and Missionarj^ and Tract Societies, all quietly carrying on the work given to the nation to do ? In the following bird's-eye view of our American empire, we shall consider all the British possessions in that part of the globe as united, under one sove- reign, by the ties of brotherhood, by identical in- terests, and by that intimate connection which an easy and constant communication should maintain between them. While it is hoped that all may hud instruction and amusement in these images, we espe- cially wish to point out to intending emigrants tho advantages which these colonies ofi'er to those who wish to tind a home abroad, and yet desire to retain the name and privileges of Englishmen, to live under British laws, with British rights, among coimtrymen INTRODUCTION. W^ and friends, and, more than all, to enjoy the unfet- tered exercise of that free Protestant faith, long fought for and dearly won by our ancestors. In the following pages they will see how all these blessings may be secured, combined with advantages c-.^ual if not superior to those of other regions. The temporal advantages of colonization are very great, both to the mother-country and to the indi- vidual colonist. Nations have neglected this outlet for their superabundant population, and have suffered for their error. A few political economists have laid down rules equally vain and futile to prevent its necessity, but, happily, seldom have these theories gained the sympathy of Englishmen, and the tide of emigration has still flowed on. Altliough Britain is territorially one of the smallest among the nations of Europe, yet, by the constant emigration of her super- abundant population of all classes, she has been free from the violent outbreaks and disorders from which other nations have so fearfully suffered ; while happy communities have sprung up all over the globe, speaking her language, professing her pure religion, and enjoying the benefit of her laws. These communities form the best customers for her numerous manufactures, upon which her national prosperity so greatly depends. Settlers In our own colonies must not bo considered ahens and strangers, as was once the case. Instead of being severed from or useless to the mother- country, the colonist becomes much more useful than before. The man who, at home, would not have spent two pounds a-year on British manufactures, will, when a thriving settler, pui'chase goods from 6 BRITISH NORfH AMERICA. • 11 J I r. i m this country to tho value of fifty or even a Imndred pounds during the same period. By thus adding to the wealtli of the mother-country, our colonists con- tribute largely to the internal peace and wonderful prosperity we enjoy. But in order that our colonies and our colonists may prosper, none should emigrate who are by nature or education unfitted for it, or who are ignorant of the country to which they are going, the difficulties which they may have to encounter, and the benefits which they may hope to gain. This work is designed to supply accurate informa- tion on those suly'ects with which it is desirable that intending emigrants should be made acquainted. It is ^rorthy of remark, that the quaint advice given in an old book addressed by one of the early colonists of America to his fellow-countrymen, is still as applicable as ever to the colonists of the present day. The passage is quoted as a valuable counsel to emigrants respecting what they ought to expect, and for what they have to prepare. After enumerating the advantages of the colony, and its productiveness, the author continues : * — '* I will not again speak of the abundance of fowl, store of venison, and variety of fish, in their seasons, which might encourage many to go in their persons. Only I advise all such beforehand to consider, that as they hear of countries that abound with the good creatures of God, so means must be used for the taking of every one in his kind, and therefore not only to content themselves that there is sufficient, but to foresee how they shall be able t'^ obtain the same. * Winslow's "Good If ewes from New Eugland." ■i DrmODUCTION. Otherwise, as he that walketh London stroef s, though ho be in the midst of plenty, yet if he want means, is not the bettor, but hath rather his sorrow increased by tho sight of that he wanteth and cannot enjoy it, so also there, if thou want art and other necessaries thereunto belonging, thou mayest see that thou wantest and thy heart desireth, and yet bo never the bettor for the same Some there be that, thinking altogether of their present wants, the supply of which they enjoy here, and not dreaming of any there, through indiscrotion plunge themselves into a deeper sea of misery *' I write not these things to dissuade any that shall seriously, upon due examination, set themselves to further the glory of God, and the honour of our country, in so worthy an enterprise, but rather to discourage such as with too great lightness under- take such courses ; who peradventure strain them- selves and their friends for their passage thither, and are no sooner there than, seeing their foolish imagination made void, are at their wits' end, and would give ten times so much for their return, if they could procure it ; and out of such discontented passions and humours spare not to lay that imputa- tion upon the country, and others, which themselves deserve. " As, for example, I have heard some complain of others for their large reports of New England, and yet because they must drink water and want many delicates they here enjoyed, could presently return with their mouths full of clamours. And can any be so simple as to conceive that the fountain should stream forth wine or beer, or the woods and rivers i :• ! t m. 8 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. be like butchers' shops or fishmongers' stalls, whore they might have things taken to their hands ? If thou canst not live without such things, and hast no means to procure the one, and wilt not take pains for the other, nor hast ability to employ others for thee, rest where thou art ; for as a proud heart, a dainty tooth, a beggar's purse, and an idle hand be here intolerable, so that person that hath these qualities there, is much more abominable. If, therefore, God hath given thee a heart to undertake such courses, upon such grounds as bear thee out in all difficulties, viz., his glory as a principal, and all other outward good things hit as accessaries, which peradventure thou shalt enjoy, and it may be not, tlien thou wilt, with true comfort and thankfulness, receive the least of his mercies ; whereas, on the contrary, men deprive themselves of much happiness, being senseless of greater blessings, and through prejudice smother up the love and bounty of God ; whose name bo ever glorified in us, and by us, now and evermore. Amen." l:\ il CHAPTER I. ^^P^mmm DISCOVEir OF BRITISU AMEUICA. The Norsemen— John Cabot— Cortereal— French explorations— Jacqaes Carticr— Frobisher, Gilbert, and other Eii^flish diat-overers — Spanish voyages alonp the western coast of Nortli America — Captain Cook- Dates of varii^us British settlements in Jforth America. Nearly five hundred years before Columbus sailed from Palos, the American continent had been discovered by the Scandinavians who settled iu Greenland. About the year 1001, Biorn, the master of a vessel trading between Norway and Iceland, was driven out of his course by a storm, and dis- covered the coast of North America, which he named Vinland. There the Scandinavians attempted to form settlements, but, having quarrelled with the natives, were obhged to abandon the attempt, and confine themselves to their colony in Greenland. Nothing more was known of the widely-extending territories subsequently possessed by Great Britain in America until the year 1497, when John Cabot, imder a commission from Henry vii., landed on its shores only four years after Columbus had reached the West Indies, and nearly twelve months before that celebrated navigator had touched at any part of the continent. From this early expedition may be dated both the Arctic explorations and the i I I 10 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 1 '» mnritlme greatnefis of England. King TTonry rii. l)iltorly rogrettod the unfortunate hositition that liad lost liim Columbus, and gladly availed himself of the Borvices of the Venetian navigator, then resident in liristol. This old man, Giovanni Oabota. or John Cabot, had a ropntaiion for bold and skilful seamanship, second only to Columbus himself. Henry granted to liim and his three sons a patent of discovery, dated 5th March, 1 19(5, and commissioned them to search for a North-west jmssage to the East Indies and China. In Juno, 1497, the adventurers discovered the coasts of Labrador and Newfoundland. The most authentic account of the expedition was in- scribed in Latin, by Sebastian Cabot's directions, on a map of the coasts discovered, of which the following is a translation : — " In the year of our Lord 1497, John Cabot, a Venetian, and his son Sebastian, discovered that country which no one before his time had ventured to approach, on the 24th of June, about five o'clock in the morning. He called the land Terra Primum Visa, because, as I conjecture, this was the place that first met his eyes on looking from the sea. On the contrary, the island that lies opposite the land he called the Island of St. John, as, I suppose, because it was discovered on the festival of St. John. The inhabitants wear beasts' sivins and the intestines of animals for clothing, esteeming them as highly as we do our most precious garments. In war, their •weapons are the bow and arrows, spears, darts, slings, and wooden clubs. The country is sterile and uncultivated, producing no fruit, from which circiun- SEBASTIAN CABOT — CORTEBILVL. n stance it happens that it is crowded Tvith white bears and sta^s of an unusual lieifijht and size. It yiehls plenty of lish, and these very larp^o, such as seals and salmon ; but ospocially {j^reat abundance of that kind of fish culled, in the vulvar tongue, baccalaos (cod- fish). In the same island also Ijreed hawks, so black in tlieir colour that they wonderfully resemble ravens; besides which there are partridges and eagles of dark plumage." The name of the first English ship that touclied American soil was the Matthew^ of Bristol. The names of two of the crew were Master Thome, and Hugh Eliot, '' a merchant of LristoTe." This is all that is known of the first expedition in search of a North-west channel of communication with India and China. In the following year Sebastian, son of the first discoverer, undertook a more extensive exploratory voyage along the greater part of the eastern coast, from latitude 56^ or 58^ north, and south as far as Florida. The same eminent seaman took part in another expedition in the year 1517, ^\hen it is believed that ho penetrated into Hudson's Straits, but his maps and papers have been totally lost. In the year 1500, Caspar Corteroal having obtained two vessels from the King of Portugal, sailed to the coast of America. Respecting the details of this voyage there remain only detached notices. It is supposed that he reached the American coast on the northern shore of Newfoundland, where he found a bay containing numerous islands, which he called the Golfo Qtadrado, conjectured to be the Straits of Belleisle. He then steered north- I j 19 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. I ! il HP wards, and passed along a coast, marked in old maps Cijrturealis, but now called Labrador. It ia said to have roceivod tliis name from tliu cliaractor given by Corturoal of the natives, that tliey wore lavradorcH — very laborious. AftiT a run alon;^ the coast, estimated at about seven hundred miles, the approach of tlio I'ohir winter compelled Cortereal to return to Lisbon. I'roud of his success, he started the next year witli two ships to complete his dis- covery. Only ril, lo.'j 1, and reached Newfoundland on the 20th of ^lay. After havinp; almost circumnavig'ated Newfoundland, he proceeded up the Gulf of St. Lawrence as far as a spot to which he p^ave the name of the l^)ay of Chaleur, on account of the great heat which ho there expe- rienced. His description of tho country and its inhabi- tants is interesting. ''Taking our way," says he, "along the coast, wo camo in sight of tho savages, who stood on the borders of a lake in the low grounds, where they had lighted their fires, which raised a great smoke. AVe went towards them, and found th;it an arm of the sea ran into the lake, into which we !. i I \ if 1 1 J i n| 14 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. pushed with our boats. Upon this the savages approached in one of their little barks, bringing along with them pieces of roasted seals, which they placed upon wooden boards, and afterwards retired, making signs that this was intended as a present for us. We immediately put two men asliore, with hatchets, knives, garlands for the head, and such like wares. On seeing these articles they appeared much dohghted, and crowded to the bank where we were, paddling their barks, and bringing skins and other articles, which they meant to exchange for our mer- chandise. Their number, including men, women, and children, was upwards of three hundred. Some of the women, who would not venture nearer, stood up to the knees in water, singing and dancing. Others, who had passed over, came to us with great familiarity, rubbing our arms with their hands, which they afterwards lifted up to heaven, singing all the while, and making signs of joy ; such at last was their friendliness and security, that tliey bartered away everything they had, and stood beside us quite naked ; for they scrupled not to give us all that was on them, and indeed their whole wardrobe was not much to speak of. It was evident that this people might be, without difficulty, converted to our faith. They migrate from place to place, and subsist them- selves by fishing. Their country is warmer than Spain, and as beautiful as can be imagined — level, and covered, e^^ en in the smallest spots, with trees, and this although the soil is sandy. It is full also of wild corn, which hath an ear similar to rve. We saw many beautiful meadows full of rich grass, and lakes where there were plenty of salmon. The TREACHERY OF THE FRENCH. 15 ^T^T^pppp; savages called a hatched-, cochi, and a knife, hacon.''^* Cartier carried off two natives, and took them with him to France, where he arrived on the 5th of Sep- tember, 1534. In the following year he was sent out with three shijis. During this voyage he sailed up the St. Lawrence as far as the Indian village Stadaconna, situated where Quebec now stands. Then, embarking in three boats, he sailed onwards to a place of which he had heard the natives speak, culled Ilochelaga, which they said was the principal town in tlie country. He found it to consist of about fifty bark-covered huts, fortified with ramparts of wood, and situated at the foot of a high hill, to which, Irom the beautiful prospect it commanded, he gave the name of Mont-Royal, now Montreal. The Iildian word Kanata, signifying a collection of huts, was mistaken by the French for the name of the country, which was therefore called Canada. Cartier and his party had been kindly received and well treated by the natives, but they repaid this kindness by an act of treacherous ingratitude, which was the cause of much bloodshed both among the natives and the European settlers. Tliey seized the chief of Stadaconna, Donnaconna by name, by whom they had been hospitably entertained, wdtli two of his chiefs and eight of his people, for the purpose of exhibiting them in France, leaving his subjects inconsolable for his loss. After a prosperous voyage, Cartier arrived in France on the Gth of July, 15136. The unfortunate Indians, oppressed by the air of civilized life, speedily sank and died. These were among the fii'st victims * Kamusio, vol. iii. p. 438. : I > I 16 BRITICH NORTH AMERICA. i;- I of French cruelty, but the wicked example was only too readily followed ; and the treachery practised towards them excited a deadly hostility among the Indian tribes, who soon learned to look upon the white strangers as enemies whom they were bound to destroy, thus bringing on ih.-raselves a war of extermination. Indeed, from north to south, with the exception of those formed by the Pilgrim Fathers, the European settlements were founded i'. bloodshed and wrong. Cartier again returned to Canada in 1541, acting as lieutenant to the Sieur de Roberval, who was appointed by Francis i. as viceroy in Canada, Ilochelaga, etc. Tlie French built a fort near the present site of Qneb> c, which they named Charlesbourg, being the first European settlement formed in that part of America. But the undertakino: was unsuccessful. The Indians, justly incensed at the breach of faith which lost them tlieir chief, ojiposed the French in every way, both by conspiracies and by open hostility. Jealousies arose between Cartier and Eoberval, and, ruined in health and fortune, Cartier returned to France, whore he soon after died. Eoberval was recallec! by Francis i., and nearly a century passed away before the French wore firmly establislit'd in Canada. The spirit of research slumbered for a time in England. Sebastian Cabot, disgusted with the in- difi'erence of Henry viii., resolved to transfer his services to Spain, but returned to England after the accession of the young king Edward vi., who ap- pointed h vivof'. zea casi <\ard, Willough to oiu" prt The at recommen Sir Marti covery b^ bearing h bravery ai his skill ! to Sir Hu; Ealeigh) On the 11 with five 11th of Jn possession After visit wick, and by a sev( small shij that he i coasts alo larger shi; entreated '. " Courage on shore.'' man as he A book w£ reading tc the book gift to mi I i ! ENGLISH DISCOVEEERS. 17 pointed him grand pilot of England. But the re- vived zeal for discovery during that reign, turned casi ward, producing the voyages of Sir Hugh Wilioughby and others, whose discoveries are foreign to our present subject. The attempts to discover the North-west passage recommenced in the reign of Elizabeth. In 1576, Sir Martin Frobisher was sent on a voyage of dis- covery by the queen. He discovered the straits bearing his name. He is more celebrated for his bravery and perseverance as a commander than for his skill as a navigator. Queen Elizabeth granted to Sir Humphrey Gilbert (half brother to Sir Walter Raleigh) letters-patent for discovery in the West. On the 11th of June, 1583, he sailed from Plymouth with five ships, arrived off Newfoundland on the 11th of July, and soon after proceeded to take formal possession of the island for the Queen of England. After visiting the shores of Nova Scotia, New Bruns- wick, and Newfoundland, his squadron was overtaken by a severe gale. The admiral was on board a small ship called the Squirrel, in which he sailed that he might better examine the harbours and coasts along which he passed. The crew of the larger ship, who revered him as a father, in vain entreated him to quit the Squirrel. His reply was, "Courage, lads, we are as near heaven at sea asi on shore." The setting sun shone on the noble old man as he sat on the deck of his wave-tossed bark. A book was before him, from which he seemed to be reading to his crew. W^ho can doubt that it was the book of books — God's holy word — his precious gift to man to teach him the way of eternal life! 1 I , 1 1 r t l> 1 i i f i I ■■■ > 1 1 18 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. Such was the last glimpse of the brave Sir Hum- phrey Gilbert, as darkness closed around the vessels. That night the tempest increased. The crew on the deck of the larger ship uttered a loud cry, for sud- denly the light on board their beloved admiral'.- vessel was extinguished. He and his companiont^ had gone down in that stormy ocean, awaiting the; time when ''the sea shall give up the dead that are in it." The other ship returned alone to Falmouth, with many saddened hearts on board. Notwithstanding this sad catastrophe, and the ill success that had hitherto attended the attempts of the English, a belief in the possibility of the North- west passage, and a determination to find it, had taken stron/:^ hold of the national mind. Undeterred by failure or ly suffering, expedition after expedition went out, carrying band after band of heroes, ready to struggle and endure in the hardest of all conflicts with frost, and snow, and ice. It would lead us too far from the special objects of this book to describe, or even to name, the many brave commanders who followed each other from Sir Humphrey Gilbert, Davis, Knight, Hudson, down to Parry, Eoss, Franklin, and, last of all. Sir Leopold McClintock, the commander of the gallant little Fox, which brought the tidings that the passage was found and the work done, by brave men, many of whom had laid down their lives in doing it. Why should we attempt to name them when every bay, channel, and island, commemorates their names ? An in- teresting account of all the expeditions will be found in a companion volume, to which we refer our readers.* • " Arctic Discovery and Adventure," published by the Religious Tract Society. RESULTS OF ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. 19 Thoiigb. it has been found that the long-sought channel is useless for any practical purpose, yet the efforts to find it have not been wasted; in search- ing for it, men have discovered many valuable things for which they were not seeking. Britain has formed in this school some of her greatest naval commanders — has reared a race of hardy seamen that have made her the mistress of the ocean — has upened up new channels for the whale fishery — has made valuable scientific discoveries — has fixed tlie limits of the western continent, and explored the seas and isiands which range along the remotest shores. Most of our early navigators have been God- fearing men — not ashamed of their religion — bold, uncompromising, and resolute ; as a Christian naval ofticer of the present day, addressing his younger brothers in arms, observes — " They fought and con- quered, and wrought deeds of daring beyond belief, with * the praises of God in their mouths, and a two- edged sword in their hands.' We their descendants are reaping the magnificent harvest of their great heroism. Wherever we find them they are still the same ; in tlie courts of Japan or of China, fighting Spaniards in the Pacific, or prisoners among the Algerines, founding colonies which by-and-by were to grow into enormous transatlantic republics, or exploring in crazy pinnaces the fierce latitudes of the Polar seas, they were the same indomitable God- fearing men, whose life was one great liturgy." * No colonies can be founded by Britain amidst the northern ice, yet these desolate lands should not be * "Seamanship, and its Associated Duties ia the Boyal Na,vjt' Lieutenant A H. Abton, R.N. by I u ' I: 20 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. regarded aa the least glorious part of her mighty empire, for there is not an ice-bound channel or enow- covered island in all these dreary regions, tho very name of which does not record some lieroic story of patient effort and cheerful submission, fitted to teach the youth of Britain in every future age how to labour and how to endure. We have seen how, whilst searching for a shorter passage to India, the eastern coasts of North America were discovered. It remains for us only briefly to describe the discovery of the far-off western shores of that part of the continent claimed as the heritage of Englishmen, before commencing a sketch of tlip geography of those vast regions. The glad eyes of Vasco Nunez de Balboa, after he had crossed the isthmus of Panama from the east, were the first to rest on the shining waters of the Pacific. Balboa, a Castilian navigator, was one of the numerous adventurers who flocked to America soon after its discovery by Columbus. He hear'l from the Indians of *'a mighty sea," on the other side of the mountains, into which flowed streams abounding in gold. Starting with his men, Sep- tember 1, 1513, from the village of Darien, he soon after reached the mountain from which he was in- formed by the Indian guides that he could see th^ great sea. Eesolving to be the first European who should behold this new ocean, he forbade his men to move from their places until he called them. Then, ascending to the height which the Indian had pointed out, he beheld the Pacific glittering in tlie morning sun. He now summoned his little troop to ascend said he, " The Sp; North An not tiU Ic reached tl Columbia; separate 1 In 177C known aa Admiralty course be1 versing t] deavourin instead of many imj Sandwich the i'lmeri Owing to sliips to Sound on Captain "V he carried who brou scription f implemem Europeans some com natives," good-natu looked uj passionate stature w ', M"» INTERC0UR8B WITU THE NATIVES. S81 to ascend and view the noble prospect. "Behold," Baid ho, " the rich reward of all our toil." The Spaniards sailed along the western coasts of North America and discovered California, but it was not till lo92 that Juan de Fuca, sailing northward, reached the coasts of Vancouver's Island nnd British Columbia, giving his name to the straits which separate that island from Washington Territory. In 1776, Captain James Cook, who had been long known as a skilful navigator, was selected by the Admiralty to discover a communication by a northerly course between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, re- versing the plans of former expeditions, and en- deavouring to sail from the Pacific into tiie Atlantic, instead of from the Atlantic into the Pacific. After many important discoveries, including that of the Sandwich Islands, Captain Cook came in sight of the American continent at the coast of New Albion. Owing to unfavourable winds which forced his sliips to the south, he first anchored in Nootka Sound on the west side of that large island to which Captain Vancouver afterwards gave hi'3 name. Here he carried on a friendly intercourse with the natives, who brought large quantities of furs of every de- scription for the purpose of trade. As they had iron implements and other articles manufactured by Europeans, it was evident that they must have had some communication with civihzed men. " The natives," says Cook, " were docile, courteous, and good-natured ; but quick in resenting what they looked upon as an injury, and, Hke most other passionate people, as soon forgetting it. Their stature was rather below the common size of I 22 BRITISH NORTn AMERICA. :; ! Europeans ; and although at first, owing to the paint and grease which covered their skins, it was be- lieved that they wore of a copper complexion, it was afterwards discovered that tliey were in reality a ■white people. They were well armed with pikes some headed with bono, and many with iron ; be- sides which they carried bows, slings, knives, and a short club, like the patow of the New Zealanders ; their arrows were barbed at the point, and the inner end feathered." From Nootka Sound Captain Cook sailed north- wards and explored the coast to Icy Cape. The shores were afterwards more minutely examined by Meares, Vancouver, and Kotzebue. In 1792, Captain Vancouver entered the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and sailed up the Gulf of Georgia on the coast of the province now known as British Columbia. The explorations in the interior will be related in the history of the provinces to which they belong. Although the special intention of this volume is to treat of the colonies in North America at present belonging to Britain, the history of their first settle- ment would be incomplete without a brief reference to those colonies originally settled from England, but now independent. In 1583, Sir Walter Ealeigh obtained by letters- patent a large tract of country which he named Virginia, in honour of his sovereign; and in 1584 the first English settlers were sent out by Ealeigh to North Carolina, but on the arrival of Sir Francis Drake, in 1586, they quitted the settlement, in his vessel. Various other attempts were made to Tp^wp"^ £NGLISU SETTLEMENT OF NORTH AMEKICA. 23 establish settlements, but they were all unsuc- -^essful, and at the commencement of the seventeenth contury there were no English colonies in any part of the continent of America. During the seventeenth century, the settlements planted on the coast of North America were, in chronological order, as follows : — Virginia, a. d. 1607 ; New York, which was contended for and alternately occupied by the English and Dutch, from 1014 to 1674; Massachusetts, 1020; New Hampshire, 1023; New Jersey, 1624; Delaware, 1627; Maine, 1630; Maryland, 1033; Connecticut, 1635; Ehode Island, 1036; North Carolina, 1650; South CaroHna, 1070; Pennsylvania, 1082; and Georgia, 1733 * The present possessions of England in North America have been settled or acquired as follows : — Nova Scotia, 1021; Newfoundland, 1023; Hudson's Bay territories, 1670; Canada (conquered from the French), 1759; Prince Edward Island, 1771 ; New Brunswick, 1784; Vancouver's Island, 1848. f Britain may well be content with the magnificent territory she possesses in North America. Her enterprising sons have there a fine field for tJieir activity, and it should be their earnest endeavour to develop the varied resources with which our Almighty and loving Creator has so richly endowed this favoured land. • Maryland received its name in honour of Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I. ; the Carolinas in honour of Charles. Pennsylvauia took its Ditme from its illustrious founder William Penn, and Georgia from Goorffo II., under whom it was settled by General Oglethorpe. t " The British Colonieo," by K. Montgomery Martin. y ■I «', I . \. . ;: 1 : 'i ,il CHAPTER II. PHYSICAL GEOGUAl'IIY AND NATURAL IIISTOIIY OF 1311ITISII NOHTII AMEIIICA. Monntftin chains— Tho Rocky Mountains anrl 8oa Alps of California— AllcRlianiea — Blue Mountains— \\ iittr Bjatem of Hritish North Aniorica — Kivcrs and their valleys— Kxiunt and honnduries of Ilritinh North America — Fohtieal divisions— Climate — The different Bcasons, with their aspects and occupations — Miueral treasures — WUd animals — Birds- Fishes. North 'Vmerica is divided longitudinally by two principal ranges of mountains, near each other in the south, and gradually diverging as they approach the north, keeping a certain parallelism to the coasts of the two groat oceans. The table-land of Mexico, and the Kocky Mountains, run along the western side of tho continent, but at a sufficient distance to admit of another system of mountains between them and tho Pacific, while the Alleghanies stretch along the coast of the Atlantic. The Bocky Mountains run 1,800 miles in two parallel chains from the Anahuac Mountains in lat. 40^ n., to the mouth of the Mackenzie River in the Arctic Ocean, sometimes united by a transverse ridge. The mountains nearer the west coast consist of two chains, one of which, beginning in Mexico, skirts tlie Gulf of California on the east, and main- tains rather an inland course till north of the river m 'nPT^ MOUNTAINS AND III V^ US. 25 Oregon, whore it forms the Soa Alps of the coast ; and thon, increasing in breadth as it passes through Eussian America, ends at Nootka Sound. Tho other chain, known as the Sea Alps of Cali- fornia, begins at the extremity of the peninsula, and running northward with increasing height, close to tho Pacific, passes tlirough Vancouver's Island, and after joining the Alps of tho north-'vrost coast, termi- nates at ]\[ount Elias, which is 17,8G0 feet in height. A range of very high snowy mountains goes directly across both these coast chains, and unites them to the Eocky Mountains. Between these mountains on the west and the Alleghany range on the east, lies tho great central plain of North America, stretching between the Gulf of Mexico and tho Arctic Ocean, and including the valleys of the Mississippi, St. Lawrence, Nelson, Churchill, and most of those of the Missouri, Mac- kenzie, and Coppermine rivers. It has an area of 3,245,000 miles, is about 5,000 miles in length, and has few elevations beyond a low table-land which crosses it at the line of the Canadian lakes and the sources of the Mississippi, which is nowhere above 1,500 feet high, and rarely more than 700, but forms the water-shed between the streams that go to the Arctic Ocean and those that flow to the Mississippi. On the east, the Alleghany, or Appalachian Moun- tains, separate the great central plain from that which lies along the Atlantic Ocean. They stretch from the Carolinas to the Gulf of St. Lawrence; parallel to the Atlantic, and at no great distance from it, their base being a strip of table-land from 1,000 to 3,000 feet high. m i i; ■ 36 BniTISlI NORTH AMERICA, This high land is travorsod throup;h 1,000 miles between Alabama and Vermont, by from three to five parallel rid{;;o8 of low mountains, separated })y fertile longitudinal valleys. To the suutii they maintain a distance of 200 miles fnmi the Atlantic, but approach close to the coast in the south-eastern part of tiie State of New York, from whence their general course is northerly to the river St. Lawrence. But tlio Blue Mountains, which form the most easterly ridge, are continued in the double range of the rireon Mountains to Gaspo Point in tlie Gulf of St. Lawrence. They intersect the Canadas, Maine, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia with branches as high as the mean elevation of the principal chain, and extend oven to the dreary regions of Baffin's Bay. The chief Canadian branches are parallel to the river St. Lawrence. One goes n.e. from Quebec; and the Mealy Mountains, which are of much greater length, extend from Ottawa Eiver to Sandwich Bay, and though low, are always covered with snow. Little is known of the high lands within the Arctic circle, except that they probably extend from s.e. to n.w.* But the most remarkable feature of the North American continent, and especially of that portion belonging to Great Britain, is the concatenation or chain-like combination of lakes and rivers, by which a direct, or almost direct, water communication can be maintained between the Atlantic on the east and the Pacific on the west, and from Hudson's Bay on the north to the Gulf of Mexico on the south. As the waters flow for the greater part of the distance * " Physical Geography," by Mrs. Somerville. fri 'm W( is literal Victoria, of land ( her way lo ini the mind wati-rcoM (•()iii[)()se( liranchcH frttni nor nnd the Lake Mi( planted ii Lake Hu distance 1 and the i parativelji formed b^ flowing in and the Superior, bough co: Erie, and ll(nv8. I liut a port and lakes by deep ci which aff( North An Our cro! It marks vallevs wl w w^^mm/^ WATER COMMUNICATIOX. 27 finm wpfit io onst in tlio first-nnined instance, it is litorally true tliiit a canoe may bo Irmiiclu'd nt Vi(t(»ria, Vancouver's Islaiul, and, with sliort distances of land carriage, may in the course of a summer iind her way down the St. Lawrence to Qufhoc. To imiir«'ss this important feature more firmly on the minds of our readers, we may liken these mi;j^]ity watercourses, in the sliapo they assume, to a cross (•oni[i()sed of two rather strag-jj^ling and irn>gular liranches of a tree. The upright stem, running from north to south, is formed by Hudson's liay mid the streams which unite it with Lake Huron, Lalvo Michigan, and the Mississippi, witli its foot planted in the Gulf of Mexico. It will he seen that Lake Huron and Lake Michigan imite, and that the (listimco between the southern end of Lake Mithigan and tlie navigable waters of the Mississippi is com- paratively short. The transverse part of our cross is formed by the Frazer on the west, the Saskatcliewan flowing into Lake Winnipeg, by that important lake and the streams and lakes which unite it to Lake Superior, while the eastern portion of tlie horizontal l)oiigh consists of Lake Huron and Lakes 8t. Clair, Eiie, and Ontario, out of which tlie St. Lawrence ilows. This imaginary cross represents, however, Lilt a portion of the intricate ramification of streams and lakes, whoso internal communications are aided by deep canals and some thousand miles of railway, \vhich afford easy access to all parts of the British North American provinces. Our cross will serve another very important purpose. It marks the direction of three great and fertile vallevs which exist in the North American continent, V I «| 28 BRITISH NOKTU AMERICA. : r \ f. ) i ;b and which have materially determined the direction wliich colonization should take. We name them in the order that they have become known. The first is the valley of the St. Lawrence, discovered by Cartier, Champlain, and others, which forms the eastern part of the cross; the second is the valley of the Mississippi, discovered by La Salle, though not really colonized till some generations later, when the Alleghany Mountains were crossed by the people of the United States ; the tliird valley, destined hereafter to prove not the least important, is that of the Saskatchewan and the basin of Lake Winnipeg, commencing at the Rocky Mountains and extending east to within 300 miles of Lake Superior, in the neighbourhood of which the extremities of all the three valleys may be said almost to imite. An important stream — the Red River — rises in the territories of the United States, and, running north- wards, falls into Lake Winnipeg m British North America. By its means an easy communication exists between the valleys of the Mississippi and Saskatchewan. At the extreme western point of Lake Superior will be found the Kaministiquia River, flowing from Dog Lake. From the height of land on the west of this lake a series of rivers and lakes empty themselves into Lake Winnipeg, which in like manner unite, by water communication, the valley of the St. Lawrence with that of the Saskatchewan. With the Saskatchewan should be associated the names of Hind, Hector, and Palliser, for having explored and made known the great capabilities and resources of that fertile region, sc long declared by the fur-hunters to be a desert . 1. ; ! i Hi. . > mm BRITISH AMERICAN POSSESSIONS. 29 waste, incapable of supporting a community of civilized men, except on the banks of the Eed Eiver; whereas by the computation of Professor Hind, no mean authority, it may maintain nineteen millions of inhabitants. Before speaking particularly of the British dominions, it was necessary first to consider the pjeneral system of mountains, lakes, and rivers in North America, which, in truth, form one system throughout that vast continent. The British possessions alone comprise an area of four millions of 8(][uaro miles. The extreme length from the Atlantic to the Pacific is 3,000 miles, and from north to south 2,000 miles — a territory larger than the whole of Europe — over which the Sovereign of Britain holds supreme sway. On the north, east, and west, this great territory is bounded only by the ocean ; except that on the north-west, a line extend- ing from the Polar Sea down the 140° of longitude, and then along the coast of the North Pacific to the 130° of longitude, separates it from the Russian territory. On the south, beginning at the shores of the Pacific, it is separated from the American States by an irregular line, running along the 49th parallel of latitude, till it reaches the Lake of the Woods, when it bends slightly to the south, along the south shore of Rainy Lake and river, then along Pigeon River to Lake Superior, thence across that lake to the St. Mary River, down Lake Huron to the river and lake of St. Clair, and the Detroit Eiver, through Lake Erie down the Niagara River, across Lake Ontario down the St. Lawrence until near Montreal, where that stream is m I i I I i : " i'' Vl\ i 30 BRITISn NORTH AMERICA. intersected by the parallel of 45° of latitude, thence along that parallel as far east as the meridian of 71°, and afterwards bending north at some distance from the river (embracing the eastern townships of Canada), till it meets the St. John's River, and then once more bending south down part of that stream and the St. Croix Eiver, it terminates in the Bay of Fundy, separating the State of Maine from New Brunswick. On the east we find the island of New- foundland, and on the west that of Vancouver, with other smaller islands, which will be afterwards described. British North America is divided into seven sepa- rate provinces under their respective governments, viz. : — the Canadas, eastern and western, or Lower and Upper ; British Columbia ; Vancouver's Island ; Nova Scotia, with v. ape Breton added as a county ; New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and New- foundland, with the adjacent shores of Labrador. To these, the eighth and largest portion must be added, for the present called Central British North America, but previously known as the Hudson Bay Company's territory, and often improperly denomi- nated Rupert's Land. It has been calculated that the whole territory belonging to Britain is capable of supporting upwards of forty millions of inhabitants, of which Central British America might of itself maintain nineteen millions, leaving eighteen millions for Canada, and three or four millions for the smaller provinces. As this is upwards of ten times its present population, this country will offer for years to come a magnificent field for colonization, for the employment of British capital, and for the ii CLIMATE OF BRITISH NOHTH AMERICA. 31 exorcise of that energy and enterprise for whicli the British race is so justly renowned. Considering the immense extent of this region a wonderful uniformity of climate prevails, the western part, however, being much more temperate than the eastern, even at a higher degree of latitude. For example, the southern end of Vancouver's Island enjoys a climate superior to that of the peninsula of Western Canada, although some degrees farther north. Yet for English constitutions, and even for those who are delicate, it may be asserted that there exists no cHmate more suitable than that of the peninsula of Western Canada. Of course, the cUmate of the southern districts k much superior to the northern, yet it should lie understood that throughout the whole of British North America extreme cold is sometimes experienced, so that the ground is covered, during the winter, for two, three, and occasionally for four months, with several feet of snow. But on account of the serenity of the atmosphere, and the absence of fogs, it is easy to guard against the cold, while the snow is looked upon as a blessing, as it enriches the ground and keeps it warm, kills vermin, and, when leaten down, allows timber and heavy articles to be conveyed over it on sleighs, which could not otherwise be moved where no regular roads exist. Ahhough the winter is longer than that of Europe, it passes away with rapidity ; the heat then be(;omes considerable, and all cereals and fruits come quickly to perfection. Winter is no drawback to the enjoyment of life in tlie colonies we are describing. There is ample occu- JTM I :i i h I I ^li: i HI i i " 1 ' 32 BRITISH NORTH AlIERICA. pation out of doors, -while the longer evenings at that period afford time for the cultivation of the mind, for the study, as well as for the simple reading of God's holy word, and for the performance of various manual tasks which the settle^' should be able to undertake. The inhabitants of the towns have also numerous out-door amusements during winter— sleigh-dri^'ing, skating, boat-sailing on the ice, toboggining,* fish'ng; while the hardy sportsman finds ample occupj tion in hunting. So serene is tlie atmosphere in the forest, that, when the thermometer is at the lowest, the lumberer will work with no other covering on his shoulders than his flannel vest.f In summer, though the heat for a short time is excessive, the air is so pure and dry that it is not felt to be oppressive ; and as bathing in the purest and coolest water can always be obtained, that season has its peculiar delights. The least agreeable time is in spring, when the snow begins to melt, and mud prevails in the best paved streets; but the increas- ing warmth, and the anticipation of the coming summer, causes the inconvenience to be overlooked ; the hot sun and wind soon dry up the mud, and all nature rejoices in emancipation from the thraldom oi winter. The soil, fertilized and kept warm by the snow, speedily assumes its vernal beauty, and even before the mantle of white has disappeared the grass springs up with a rapidity truly surprising, • Toboggins are oblong pieces of wood, on which people amuse them- selves by sliding down the sides of a hill covered with ice. t The author once, on asking a man how he withstood the intense cold oi" a North American winter, received the reply :— " Well, sir, there's snow and there's ice enough, no doubt of that; but to my mind aomehon ttid cold gets all friz up" (frozen up). I h TM w> THE INDIAN SUMMER. 33 j3owcr9 burst forth into bloom, and the fruits of early simimer quickly ripen and obtain a size and flavour rarelj' equalled in European climates. But even were the spring and summer less plea- sant than tliey really are, ample amends ^vould be made by the temperature which is enjoyed when autumn with its gorgeous tints has commenced. This season is peculiar to North America, and is known as the Indian summer. No words can adequately describe the elasticity, the purity of the atmosphere, the cxliilaration it produces, and its almost intoxi- cating effects. A slight gauze-like haze hangs over the landscape, the ail' is genially vrarm, at the same time that one feels as if it were impossible to become fatigued by any amount of exercise. This weather sometimes lasts for a month, or even longer, and rarely a year passes without at least a week of it ; to be thoroughly understood, however, it must be expe- rienced, and the enjoyment of it will alone repay the cost of a voyage across the Atlantic. At this reason, too, the face of nature assumes a new aspect. The green which clothes the forest in summer gives way to the most gorgeous colours, the ma])le assumes the brightest red and yellow of many shades, the oak a bright copper, the beech a delicate colouring of the purest gold or amber. While some trees assume various colours, the beech takes but one, the most beautiful imaginable. A beech grove at that time presents a lovely scene. The ground is already sprinkled with golden leaves, while above still flut- ters gently in the breeze a canopy of the same ele- gant texture, through which the sun's bright rays D 1 t t • I I ( ■f : r ii t 34 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. find their way, shedding a joyoas light through this most fairy-Hke of Nature's halls. The first rude Lhist of winter, however, strips every branch and spray, and, as if by the rod of a magician, the whole scene is changed, not to return till the following year. Winter, too, presents objects of beauty unsurpassed in any other part of the globe. When snow has fallen and a partial thaw has taken place, every bough and twig becomes coated with ice, and as the lighter branches wave to and fro in the breeze while the sun sliines on them, they appear as if hung with innumerable gems. We cannot resist here giving the description of a scene witnessed by Professor Hitchcock, surpassing in wondrous beauty those of the same character ordinarily to be observed. He calls it " The Coronation of W inter. ^^ ** The leafless branches and twigs of every tree, of every shrub, and even of every spire of grass that rose above the surface of the snow, were encased in a thick and beautiful hyaline coat, as transparent as the purest water. Along the branches the ice swelled into tubercular masses, terminating in a knob, so as to resemble strings of gigantic glass beads. Lovely was the effect produced, as the sim broke through the clouds, on these countless naiural gems, thus prepared to refract and reflect his light with more than his original brightness. " Each shrub had the aspect of a superb chandelier, and how still more magnificent did a whole forest appear, with the rays of the sun darting through and lighting up ten thousand radiant points of a diamond hue and intense brilliancy ! These gems could be seen at the distance of forty or fifty rods, "the coronation of winter." 35 and when beyond that distance, the forest had the aspect and the richness of embossed silver. The next day the sparkling brilliants were not, as before, of colourless light. Here and there appeared gems of the prismatic colours, now one of splendid sap- phire blue, next one of amethystine purple, here one of intense topaz yellow, then a sea-green beryl changing by the slightest alteration of position into a rich emerald green, and then ono of deep red. As the sun approached the meridian, the number and splendour of these coloured gems increased, 80 that on a single tree hundreds of them might be seen ; and sometimes so large was their size and intense their colour, that at a distance of fifty rods they seemed equal to Sirius, nay, to the morning star; and of hues the most delicate and rich that can be conceived, exactly imitating, so far as I could judge, the natural gems, and not par- taking at all of those less delicate and gaudy tints by which a practised eye can distinguish genuine from supposititious precious stones. And by moving the eye a few inches, we could see these different colours pass into one another, and thus witness the rich intermediate shades. Two davs afterwards there was a storm of fine rain and snow, and the beautiful transparency of the icy coat was charged into the aspect of ground-glass. This gave to the trees a new and more delicate appearance. They lesembled enchased work, formed of pure imbur- Di indeed might be expected in a country covered with forests. Of pigeons there are eight species, but individually they are innumerable, esjiecially tlio Columha Migraton'a, which passes over Canada and the Northern States in myriads, for successive days, twice in the year. There are no partrid; to thom as the only means of recovery from sin and wrath and eternal death. He explained to them \\h Christ was, and whither ho was gone, and how ho will one day come again to judge the world. He spake to them also (observing his own method, as he saw most fit, to edify them) concerning tlu^ creation and the fall of man, the greatness of God, the joys oi heaven, and the horrors of hell ; and urging them tu repentance for several sins wherein they live. On many things of the like nature he discoursed, not meddling with matters more difficult until they had tasted more plain and familiar truths." " Civilization soon followed in the footsteps of Christianity. Places in the forest were cleared, roads formed, villages bu'lt ; and thousands of the wander- ing tribes, reclaimed from their roving habits, settled down to the practices of a peaceful industry. Women were taught to spin, men instructed in husbandry and in the more simple mechanical arts, and spots that had once resounded with the war-whoop, or with the wild cries of the dance of death, echoed the hum of a virtuous and happy population." * Fourteen villages, many of them reared entirely at Eliot's o^n expense, rose in the Indian wilderness. For fifty • " Gi-eat Missionaries," by the Bev. A. Thomaou, D.D, DAVID BRAINERD. 55 years ho toilod for the Indians, and although the tribes for whom ho laboured are now extinct, the narao of this lirst "Apostle of the Indians" should uot bo forgotten in any account of the aborigines. Tlio next great labourer among tlio red men waa David lirainord, who devoted his life to their service, and Jiidiircd the Hoverest hardships to bring these hoiitlions to a knowledge of Christ. The following is luH own account of liis preaching : — '* There was indeed little room for any discourses Lilt those that respected the essentials of religion ; wliile there were so many inquiring daily how they should es(!ape the wratli to come, and arrive at the fiijoyment of eternal blessedness. And after I had led them into a view of their total depravity, and ulicncd to them the glorious remedy provided in Clirist lor perishing sinners, there was no vice unreformed, no external duty neglected. The reformation was l;it- forms appear, on whicli, in a shelt(.'red nook, the lianl)- inhabitant has pitched liis cottag*?, surrounded In- liis garden and fields. Now some mountain stream or swift-flowing river has worked out fur it.sclf a course through them ; now they sweep roiiml as they approach (iuebec, and disappear in the distance, running far inland to ihe west, after presenting sume of the most superb mountain and river scenery tu be found in any part of North Anieri(-a. Tliti views, as the voyager ascends the 8t. Lawrence and approaches Uuebec, are of exceeding beauty, varied by the passing clouds and tlio different effects of light and shade as the sun clianges his position. Precipices, waterfalls, lofty rugged era«;s or rounded hills, covered with forest trees, deep valleys running up among the mountains, of which range beyond range are seen growing more aiitl more blue and indistinct in the distance, vith cultivated patches and white-washed cottages, ami here and there a churcli tower and the house ul the cjot'j are some of the many features of the scenery. The river Saguenay presents probably some of the finest views of this description to bo found iu Canada. Let us imagine an extensive country of ni RIYER SAGUENAY. 61 rocky and thinly-clad mountains, suddenly sepa- rated by Romo corvulsion of nature so as to form a profound cliasni, varying from one to two miles in wi0 feet above iho lake level, and l*ie Ishmd, live miles south- west of the Cape, with an altitude of HoO feet. Five milts from Fort William tlie river approaches the base of the elevated but broken table-laud to M'hich M'lvay's Mountain, with an clovation of 1,000 feet above the level of the lake, forms an imposing and abrupt termination. A range of mountains, 1,000 feet in liciglit, runs for a considerable distance parallel with tlie north shore of Lake Huron. Be- tween tliis range and tlie settlements on the shores iif the lukc, tliu Great Intercolonial liailway has been liiid out. On tlie extreme north-west point of the Georgian hay, as a large part of Lake Huron is called, are situated the La Cloche Mountains, ujiwards of 400 feet in height, between Great La Cloche Lake and Lake Huron. The dazzling whiteness of the quartz rock of these mountains, their sluu'p, broken, and irregular outline, and their rugged and precipitous siiles, dotted h<3re and there with groves of trees, whether seen in combination with the waters of Lake Huron, or those of the other lakes, render the scenery around La Cloche singularly picturesque and Ijeau- til'ul. At the base of these ranges, particularly on the south side, the land is of good quality, yielding a stcnit growtli of pine, hemlock, boe( h, uuiplo, oak, dm, -.nd ash. On the British shore of Lake (Superior, Grus Cap, seen from Sault St. Mario, is the most remarkable headland, but there are several other -"I Br :1 I 'I 64 imnisii NORTH America. !i i f^ !; I : { !, El i * Lold promoTitoricR many hundred feet in liclglit to tlio westward oi'it. Altliou«;li from tlio uLovo doHcriptlons it v.Ill U Boon that Canada is nut a tnountainuus countrv, it i> very far from l»ein<; a Hat or unjacturosquo one 1; is heautifidly diver.silied throughout ]»y liills ainl vaUoys, by clifl's, rockn, and l)roken ground, U innumerable streams, often liuding their way betwcfii high baidvs and falling over ledges of roek, furniin.' rapids and romantic waterfalls, by lakes and ] oiiu as numerous as the streams, and by its sui)erb fmsts, of which portions romiun even in the early settled districts. The agricultund colonist, who cares little for boautv. and looks only at a country with an eye to its adiijita- bility iov settlement, will liuil no lack of land suited to his purpose, and which, by the persevering use df the axe, he uuiy render as treeless and bare as Salis- bury I'lains, us has been done in S(y the Indians Keetcheegalimi, as also Mis- his.i\vi,'aieyon. It is oil iiiih'S in len};tli, 110 in bmiiltii, and 1,22.> in circumi'frenee. Its surface ia tli'vatt'd ()27 feet above the level of the sea, and tlie parts wiiicli have beun fatliumed nni 1,000 feet in (Ifiitli, l)at the centre is rejiorted unfatliomable. A larg«' |)orti»)U of its soutlu-rn and western shor-.s liiluii);s to the United States, whose people have uhplavt'd their usual energy in the numljcr of towns an«l st'tllcmeuts sju-ingin^' up, and the mini's worked oiitliem; while already many hundred vessels under tlu' starry banner navi<,Mte their waters, some of wliich have carried cargoes direct to iMigland. The Americans have also constrnctecl a broad and deep (aiKil, uniting the waters of lakes Superior and Huron, the communication having before be(.'n impas- ■ralile except for canoes, in consequence of the Ilajjids ut St. Mary existing at the spot where the waters of :liO upj)er lake fall into the lower. The Canadian Kunv is more extensive than that of the United States, iiiul is about 1,200 miles in length, al)ounding in mineral wealth, with bays and inlets to form ports, and with no lack of fertile land ou which settlciuents luay 1)0 fornu'd. Two Canadian settlements have lately been estab- li'litd oil Lake Su]>erior, one at its eastern end, called St. Mary, the other at the north-western end, already >iiukL'n of as Nepigou. St. Mary's is a free port, S '/ t 1 j ■ ( ',1 I ! tl'^ I IP II ! 1 h it \ ( 66 UniTTSn NORTH AMEHICa. and tlio noigl»l)oiirinj? country havinf^ "hr^on h'u\ oi;- in froo lots, it will umloulitodly ^s()()n btcoiai; a tlnivii ,.• ]>laoo, having tlio advantaj^os of thu laku navi;j^ati .-, tho finost of lisli in immcnso (jiiantiticH, t(» Ix" hid f, r thoc'ati'hin;j;', and bring on tlio groat highway iHtwuL tho Atlantic and I'aciHc. A Kotth^mont Ir's al-^o Iik:. laid out on tho Goulais Ilivor, falling into (ioiili;. Bay; tho townships round which hoar tho warlik namoH of Kars, Fonwick, and Punnofuthcr. TL^r wholo district is knlo St. Ignaco, at tho entrance of Nopigon liay and Midi:- picoton Island, olf Mitthipicoton Harbour, aro lar^'- islands possessing mineral riches, both belonging t Canada. Tho lake is subject to storms of great violtmro, destructive not only to }>oats but to largo vessels. In a gale on these inland seas tho water l)reak.s iuti huge waves, shorter and more dangerous than thuv of the ocean. Stout vessels are therefore required f' r their navigation. Tho tirst largo vessel whidi cvtr navigated them, built by La Sallo, was probably tLn' lost.* The outlet of Lako Superior is throUi;h >i nnrrly }n'n«'titt'(l. It is tlio only United States canul tlirouj^h wliiili vessels have to pass fnmi the mouth of tho St. Liiwri'iuo into Lake Superior. Tlio larj^c island iif St. J()S('[ih, h»'lon{^in«j to Canutla, at the mouth of till St. Mary Iliver, has been laid out for sftthment. Xt'Xt to Lako Superior is T^iako Huron, which is 1,100 miles in eircumferenee, about 250 lon^', and fidiii lUO to 220 broad. On its eastern side is the wjiK' expanse known as the Georgian l^ay, almost st'[iarat('d from the main part of the lako by rho lonj^ [iiuinsula of Brueo county, and tho tmst end of tho (!mit Manitoulin. The averaj^o depth i.s 8(50 feet, ;in(l its level above tho sea is 59 1 feet. Its western ^htire alono forms part of tho United States; it is surrounded on every other side by Caimdian territory. Its nuithern part is full of islands, many of grcMit si/e. (>no of them only, Drummond's Island, belongs to the United States. St. Joseph's Island, at its western end, lias been ali'oady mentioned. East of Drum- LKjnd's Island is Coekburn's Island, with a narrow rluinnel on either side of it ; and e-ast again is the (jruud Manitoulin, 75 miles long and, in soiuo part", 2o l)road, but it has so many deep indent ati estimated to contain 221,.''>.'50 acres of land fit fdv ar their own consumption, but for the supply of tho peojde at the Jhnice Mines.* Besides the 8t. ]\Iary settlement in the Aliroma district, there are at ecjual distances live settlements formed along the north shore of Lake Huron, through * The aufhi)r curried away a head o." Indian corn from one ot these i8lan(is, given him hy an old Indian wo.^ihd. He sowe.. it seven veim afterwards in his (garden in D. irseldiire, 'vhen it i;rew up, some of the stalks prodneiiiK two and three heads ea'-h. He visited Little v^'irreiit soon after (reorce commenoed the seltlen.ent, and had niuc-h intiTi'-tiiig conversation with him. J's flourishing condition proves of what the Indians are capable. 1 i LAKE EllIE. 69 which the gjeat hij^hway will nm from tho Ottawa towards Central British Aiiu'vica. The soutliorn shores of the Georj^iaii P»ny, and also tho east shore ,il' Lake Huron, have ah-eady many ilourisliing set- rl-mentH. At the soutliern end of tho like, tho river St. Chiir connects it, Ly a channel 20 miles in li'n|j:th, witli a lake of tho same name. Lake St. rhiir is about 100 miles in circumference, and is j:i»iieriilly shoal, with low sli()re.s, but thickly wooded. It a^'ain is united to Lake Erie by th(* Detroit Iviver, at the head of which tho American town of Detroit is situated. bake Erie is about 280 miles in lenf]^th by G3 in liivadth, and 700 in circumference. It is oGo feet above the level of the sea, and its average depth is 250 feet, — (onsiderably less than that of the other largo lakes. The waters of Lake Erie wash tho southern shore of the peninsida of Canada, undoubtedly the most fertile part of tho province. The whole of the southern diore lielongs to the United States. It is connected with the Hudson Iviver by tlio Erie Canal, 3(».'] miles in length ; and witii Lake Ontario Ity the celebrated Wf'Iiaud Canal, which commences at I'ort Colborno, on Lake Erie, and enters Lake Ontario at Port I'alhousie. Its feeder is tho Grand ]liv(}r, and tlie lanal itself is 2(5 miles in length. Its locks, superbly I instructed of hewn stone, are 150 feet long by 26.} !■ "t wide, and 10 feet deep, and its <.'()Ht not less than n,o()0,000. Several other canals braiuh olT from Like Erie to connect it with other rivers in the I nited States. It a]»peared not improbable that tho waters of tho Eed liiver of Central British America might have been united by canals with those of tho iJ 11 ■ (• 70 BRITISH NOmn AMEUICA. ^Mississippi, and that river with Lako Erie, so as 1 1 form a porfcc't chain of canals an y\\<]\ through the Niagara liiver, which has the Anicrican towns of BuiTalo at its commencement on the east, anil Fort Erie on the west, or Canadian side. The Avat-r^ of the river are divided by the large island known as Goat Island, and hurrying on in a succession nf foaming rapids, one portion takes a course round i'. and then, leaping over a cliff 1G2 feet in height forms what are called the American Falls ; the larp r part keeping a direct course, with a far greater widtli and body of wati^r, forms the far-famed IIojseshoH Fall, which is about 1,1)00 feet across, and has a fall of lo8 feet. The waters, again united in a l)oiliii„' cauldron, rusli on between high and pictures(jue cliH- for live miles, till a sudden bend gives them a circular moveuK^nt called the whirlpool, in which the Ijirgost trees are sometimes whirled round and round fur days before they can make their escape by the out- let beyond. The scenery of the lower part of the Niagara Kiver is very romantic. ;i ; ■*ii;S?^t^jS» LAKE OXTARIO. 71 Tne northern, western, and i»art of the southern shores of Lako Ontario are Canadian, and were the first settled portions of the Upper Trovince. It is 130 inilt's ill Icnj^th by 80 in width, with a eirt'umforen«-e of .jOO miles. Its average depth is .500 feet, and its (levation above the sea 5G4 feet, showing that the fall of the Niagara Kiver is altogether not less than o.'JO feet. Th(? St. Lawrence lliver commences, at its eastern end, near where the town of Kingstim is built. It is ja'oposed to unite l^ake Ontario with iht' Georginn ]5ay of Lake Huron, by a canal wide ;inil deep enough to allow the passage of the largest vi'ssfls, and at the same time to increase tlie size of the St. Lawrence canals, bo as to alh>M' ships of the greatest burden to ascend to liako Superior ]iv a fir shorter route than anv yet in use. This I'lan is supported by the inhabitants of Toronto, whose interests it would grinitly advance. There is anotlicr project of still greater magnitude, supported k tlic people of Mcmtreal, which is to open up a direct water communication from the Georgian Bay, ]<}• way of French IJiver, Lake Nipissing, and the Ottawa, ^riie map will show the chain of lakes and rivers which make this scheme practical. From the rapidly increasing product i(jns of the far west — corn, 'iniler, hides, minerals — there can be no doubt that luth schemes would repay the capital expended. From Lake Ontario the St. Lawrence flows on in a iinrtli-easterly course towards the Atlantic, several times expanding intolake-like sheets of water, of whic-h tiie chief are the Lake of the Thousand Islands, between Ivingston and Montreal, so called from being filled with innumerable rocky and wooded islets 'W^ k i M , ( I t! 72 liltlTISn NORTH AMERICA. !;{ " ! \ III I 1 M - 1 IH and Lake St. Petor, between Montreal and Qiiol)Of, The ra})ids, M'liere the water rushes Avith «;^roat fnrf(» over rocky l)odH, in some places with a considcral)].. fall, would quite impede navi;::ation, wore it not for rhi- canals by which tlie obstructions have been evadcil. There are still many otlu'V imj)ortant lakes to li.- mentioned. Lake Simcoe, which lies to the north- west of Ontario, and east of Lake Huron, is uiiittMl to the latter by the Severn IJiver, and is one of the most imp(>vtant from the fertility of the surrounding: country. It ijas easy communication with Toronto by a rfiilway, the Mrst opened in Upper Canada, and its shores are surrounded by flourishing sctth- ments. Forming its northern end is the beautiful little Lak(» of C, consists of wide expanses or lakes, whicli, at tlieir lower ends, Irecjuently form rapids of gi'eater or less extent. It has about twenty tirst-«'las8 tributaries, besides a still hirger number of lesser streams flowing into it. Kiich of these rivers and streams has innumerable Iranches and smaller confluents. Its course is about cm miles, and its longest branches about half that lonirtli. I^^nlikc other rivers, its higher portions are wid(?r than those below. Two hundred miles above its mouth it contains an island 20 miles long, and iroin •'} to 10 broad; /lO miles higher up is another of almost the same dimensions. Above this portion it luissos for ab(mt 2o miles at the ba.se of a chiiiii of mountains, with a breadth excernling a miU-, and a dqith of over 100 fathoms. At its mouth the Ottawa furius the island on wliich ISlontreal stands. Just ahove it are the rapids of St. Anne, celebrated by the poet ]\Ioore in his ** Canadian Boat Song." Here is a short canal, and higher up are the rajiids of the Liingue Soutte, reijuiring for transit three distinct canals. Hence the na\igation is clear to Ottawa, formerly "^ i I '!' I 1 1; ■ ; i; t i ; > l\ f l^ I vf 1 ^ p iii •J Hi; 76 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. Bytown, defitined to bo the capital of the province. It is ono of tlie moHt hf^iiiitifully 8ituatf'(l cities in the world, on the auiimiit of a lofty clill', with tlio Ottawa Jvivt'r, horo of ^rcnit width, Hweopin^'' l>y nt itH ])aK(;. ( )ii tho opposite side in an intoriniiialili' oxttnit of forests, throiio-li whicli numorouH Htrciims iiioandor towards tiie ^rcat artery. Or. ono siilt- of tho city tho liidcau Canal, wliich coninuinicatcs witli Lako Ontario at Kingston, descends, ])y a scn'ics of h)(l\H, down tlio steo}) cliif to tho Ottawa; and on tho other, the IJicUiau liiver falls over tho dill' in a pictures(pio cataract of 100 feet in height. A sliort distance above tlio city are tlio Chaudiere Falls, which ran like a wall of I'oani directly across tlio river. As this is the great highway of the timlMi- trade, slides have been constructed on either side, l)y wliicli tho hug(^ logs are conveyed from tlie upjior to the lower level. A iine 8Usi)ension-])ridgo here s])ans 'ho river leading from Upper to Lower Canada. As usual, the water, ])efore reacliing tJio falls, rusius rapidly over a rocky bed for some distance ; and great caution is necessarv to Dreveiit tho rafts of timber getting witliin its intbieneo. Oil a visit to this 8[)ot, an (dd voyageur described to the autlior a scene of whicli ho was a witness. II'' had conducted a largo raft down some huiKh'ed niiles from near the source of one of the many tributaries of the Ottawa, when, in company with another rait. he {ii)proac]iod the Cl.'.audiere Falls. His ral't was manned cliielly by Caaadians — steady fellows, who, if uncouth, and regartQess of any laws save thos*^ of their own forming, yet abstain from drink till tln'v have brought their raft safe into dock. The other ** OVER THE FALLS." 77 raft, however, liad several men on l)onrd, who couM not be indiu'Oil to a))Htiiin from licjiior -vvlicn it was within tiuMi* reiicli. Tlio old voyai^^rur liad hroui^ht Lis rait to tlic slioro, wlioro, Imviiij^ hvi^n takon to [lilies, it WJiH lnuii^ sent down the hHcIo, while ho walked on and waH crossiii;^ th(j susjumHion-bridgo, M hen his attention was attra*' *he rapids. It was t'vident that, in a few moments, it must bo dashed til pieces, and it seemed that the fate of the four i;iit'ortiniates on it was sealed. On came the raft luirrvinjjj amid the foaming rapids ; fiercely it dashed Miriiinst the rocks, and Me])arated into as many frag- ments as there were timbers, each of which camo whirling on towards the falls. Three of the poor wntclu's disappeared amidst the tumultuous waves, hut !i fourth clung to tlie end of a piece of timber with the grasp of despair. The huge log reached ni'iirly to the edge of the cataract — still he retained his hold ; yet, in all human probability, another mo- ment would be his last. Just then the current turned i!it' log, so that the opposite end to that to which ill' (lung pointed directly to the fall. On it went, with still greater veh)city, and then, balancing for an instant on the brink of the foaming precipice, the • nd to which he held started up high into the air, and he was projected, as from a catapult, over the falls into the clear water beyond the cauldron. No one even then expected to see him again, but, uninjured, he rose tij the surface, and striking out boldly, either gained Il Hii 1 i t i I t, it I - l^ ij 78 BRITISH NOUTII AMERICA. the hIkh'O, or wiis pickod up l»y ono of tlio muny caiKjes whicli inKtmitly put oU' to his asHiHtanco, h,. being proltaMy tlio lii'ht mau who evor uaiuo ovir those falls and lived. A railway now ruuH far alovo those falls, and a lari;v portion of tlio tinilxr whit h ustid to come oYtTllmu is eonvoyod hy it to the Grand Trunk, and m» uii*, Montreal or (iut'hee for shi[>nient. IJetwcen ( 'arill/n and (Jrenville also there is a railway, hy whidi tli.' rapida and the tedious passaj^^e hy canals are avoiilti!. On the two expanses above Ottawa, stttaiucrH liiivf long been plying, and numerous townships have lit'in settled on their banks. The water-shed of the < )ttu\\\i extends over ?'ather more than 1 ,000 miles. Its Iciiyth ia 780 miles, or oO less than the l\hino. iiy uiie of its many tributaries it communicates directly, through (irand l^ako, with Moose Fort on lludsitii's Ba}'. The chief inti'rc.st to the settler ceases, how- ever, when he reach(;s the mouth uf the Mallawuu Kivcr, v.hich llows from the height of land lietwecu it and Lake Nipissing. Muttawan Kiver is na\ igablv for canoes for about 10 miles, with a fall of 120 I't-it, Hence a portage of three-(iuarters of a mile transiVis them to the chain of lakes and rivers, the w alcis ui which tlow into Lake Xi[iissing. Next to the St. Lawrence the Ottawa is the mu>t important river in British North America, both uii account of its width and depth, the length of its owu course and that of its numerous tributaries, and iLo great extent of fertile country which, by its me;ai.s, is opened up. A large numbi-r of Nourishing settle- ments are springing u[) along its banks, roads are being constructed to facilitate communication with EIVER SAOUK.VAY. 79 other rlistrictfl, aiul Kt«'mnor.s ply alony it.s \vator«. S)mo 1)1' tlit'st> uru as larj^o ami littcd up as liixiiri'Minly as tlio rivor-.stcanu'rs oi" iIk* L'liitcil States, hut tlio nijiiiln and I'all.s ^^reatly iutt'rfi'ro witli ita uavij^alioii, ius trofjiu'iit p<)rtag't!.s aro iici-essai'}'. Tilt.' third rivor of raimda is tlio Saguenay, \vlii( li (■rniitit's itself into tho St. liawreiuc, on tlio north >itlt', ultout 1 ID miles l>elo\v (iiicljec. It takes it.s ii>o in Lake St. John, and runs for 1:20 miles in a sMilli-casterly direetion. A eonsidt-rahlo numlxT of rivers llowing from tlio wild and hitherto uni)rolit- ■JiU rei^'ion of Northern ('anathi, fall into Lake St. .I'liii, many of which aro navigahlo ; ono of thorn is so for 100 miles. Near the mouth of the Saguenay in tlio village and harbour of Tadoussae, wIumko the ilistaiic'G to the settlement of ( 'hiroutimi is about 70 ndli't^, a short way above which the river ceases to lit' navigable, as hero commences a series of rapids which extend to Lake St. John. Though so far to tli(! north the climate is scarcely as severe as that of 4ut'lK( , while on the shores of Lake St. John it is ion>i(lerably milder. The great drawback to the settlements in tlio .\iL,'uenay district has hitherto been that the only 'Hiuniunication existing with (iuebec has been by water. The ( anadian Government is, lunvevor, form- iii;,' direct land communications for winter trallic, 100 miKs in length, between the Lake St. John settlo- mi'Uts and (iueliec, the lonductors of which re[)ort i.iVDiirably of the gimeral fertility of the r>oil, and of tht' progress made by the settlers, who, as its various Mjctious are o[toned up, locate themselves along it. Tlio fourth river of Canada is the St. Maurice, or m #. iH^ ^OJ ^c,"^ -^^^ nO. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 1^128 |2.5 *■ u •UUt. 18 11:25 i 1.4 m 1.6 .%. '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 v iV ^ :\ \ [V^^ js\ W^ vV mmmmm mm'm^'i^ 'mm ^fmt > I 11 :: : V Ml II , -](. 1. ■• I !k I :i 1 il I: 80 BRITISH NOETH AMERICA. Tliree Ulvers. Its source is Lake Oskelannio; its lengtli is fully 150 miles in a direct line, along wliicli it drains a district froiu 20 to 100 miles in width, ('(jui- valent to 8,-100 square miles. A large amount nf lumber is cut on the upper banks of the 8t. ^Miiurio and its tributaries, and brought dasvn to the St. Lav- rence, a considerable portion of which is convcvfi; into the T'nited IStates through the Kichelieu liiM-v aii'i Canal, and commands a high price. The Falls (jfthf Shawonegan, some distance abcn-e the town of Truis E/ivieres, are well worth a visit. The river Shaw(noi;;i]i falls into the St. Maurice over a cliff 200 feet inlirioht A rich iron mine exists near the banks of t]i<3 rin r above the town. The ore is abundant, and saiii to be equal to the best Swedish. A large fouiiiln has been established here, at which implements aiii machinery of all kinds are manufactured. The hank? are generally high, and covered with groups of ma- jestic trees. At Wemontichinique it is divided iiit) three branches : that to the west passes tliro'.ii;!! 25 lakes or more, of various sizes, some being M fathoms deep, l^y its upper waters, through tlie river Sax Lievres, the Ottawa maybe reached on one hand, and, with certain portages. Lake St. Ji.an rni the other. A road, about 75 miles in length, h;i> been surveyed between Lake St. John and tlie St. Maurice, a little below the junction with it of the Bostimnais. Ikit the rivers of Canada are almost innumernhle: only a few of the most important have been or can be mentioned. In addition to those named ami di- scribed, are many of great extent, which, however, are as yet seldom visited except ])y the Indian, tin KIYER ST. MAURICE. 81 voTageui', or the trapper. As colonization extends, these will, each in turn, rise into notice and im- •lartaTift' ; the farmer will take the place of the wild ik:iizens of the wood, and the pioneer of civilization will drive out the industrious beaver, who for ages has constructed his dam across streams which will then be busy with the commerce of a continent. ^lany of these streams run through districts of extra- ordiiiai'V fertility, or which are rich in mineral trea- sures. Others connect distant regions with each other by water-ways of incalculable value from the facilities they afford for the interchange of commodities, or tho convpyance of the produce of inland districts to the sea. Tlie number and importance of these lakes and rivers niav be more readily learned by a studv of the map than by a tedious enumeration of them here. In addition to the means of intercommunication afforded by the lakes and rivers of Canada, immense enerjT^y has been displayed, and large sums expended, in the construction of canals and railways. These are upon a scale of magnitude which would be remark- able even in Europe. It may well excite our surprise and admiration that a recently settled and sparsely peopled colony like Canada should have entered upon such works as these. The following brief summary is taken from the '* Encyclopaedia Britannica."* " The public works of Canada have already attained some degree of celebrity both in America and England. ' There is no country, ' observes ]\Ir. I. I). Andrews, in his report to the United States *So rapid is the progress of Canaria tbM the statistics of one year fall very tar short of the truth in the next. The works spoken of as in progrf ss or in contemplation, in the following summary, are now completed, and others of equal magnitude are in process of construction. ( ,.- . ■ ■ y ; f f , 82 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 'r .: y i t it ''. 1 ' senate, * -whicli possesses canals of the magnitude ariil importance of those in Canada.' The Erio Cuiud, which is the rival American water route for fainiii; the produce of the great western wh oat-growing' countries to the Atlantic sea-board, is capaLlo onlvn! transporting barges of 7o tons burden ; whei-piis tli'; canals of Canada are on a scale to allow of ocean- going vessels of from 350 to 500 tons, and carnin: 4,000 barrels of flour, to proceed through tliem, an! thus accomplish an inland navigation into tlie luar; of the continent for a distance of 1,587 miles fivir: tide-water at (iuebec. "The public productive works of Canada, con- sisting of cnals, lighthouses, etc., yielded a net revenue in 1851 of £58,738. The work yielding tlio largest amount of revenue was the Welland ('anal. extending from the head of Lake Ontario to the foot of Lake Erie, thus overcoming the interru]>ti(jn tu navigation caused by the Falls of Niagara. Tin length of the main trunk of this canal is 2S milo^, and of a feeder branch from the Grand liiver t(^ ih main trunk, 21 miles. Its width at bottom is io feet, at top 71 feet, and the depth is 10 feet. The dimensions of the locks are from 150 to 200 feet in length, the width from 26 ^ to 45 feet, and the d(^}ttli on meter \)}j feet. The amount of lockage is ;!!• feet, and the number of locks 27. This canal is alsii important as affording an unlimited supply of water power to numbers of mills and factories on its 1 uinks. The St. Lawrence canals, connecting Lake Ontario with the River St. Lawrence at Montreal, extend in all to 40^ miles, having 27 locks, and an amount ul lockage of 204f feet. The whole of these have the ,;iaenslnns of hv..lland Canal, |l,xks. Tlie Lad I of Montreal, is I: is \\o\y in imiiortaut canal tiie St. Lawren( Hite for the tr I Canada and the "The giganti ::, Canada are in :r:.versiug nearl I iMin east to wes I the main trunk killing America: ''Besides the railway system t are imderr;tood United States ii las well as the iLeing directly im Idian lines ; mo Ia2:i'icultural disti Itraile being ope: iTaliiable featiu'es jtiieir aiibrding Itrade during wi jtiun with ocean Idusod. "The most i] jrailway system [entire length oi 1,112 miles. & II C.\JfALS AND llAILWAYS. 83 iliniensions of tlieir locks as large as tliose of the Wt'lland Canal, and have all 9 feet of water in these ;,xks. The Lachine Canal, cutting through the island fif Montreal, is 8 miles in length and 10 feet deep. lit is now in contemplation to construct another [important canal, connecting Lake Cliamplain with the St. Lawrence, and thus all'ord a more desirable route for tlie trade between the Hudson Hiver and [Canada and the western States. " The gigantic railway enterprises now in progress I h Canada are intended to embrace a railway system t:;; versing nearly the entire length of the province iruin east to west, with branch feeders running into [the main trunk line, and carrying off trallio to the kiding American cities and Atlantic sea-board. ''Besides the government aid to this complete [railway system through Canada, these undertakings are imdorr.tood to receive suljstantial support from United States interests, the great western country, as well as the north-eastern states of the Union, kiuj,^ directly interested in the success of these Cana- dian lines ; more expeditious routes between the aOTcultural districts of the west and their centres of traile being opened up by them. One of the most T.iluuble features of these railways to Canada will be Itiieir ali'ording the province increased facihties of bade during winter, and uninterrupted communica- Iti-tn with ocean traffic when inland navigation is Idused. "The most important line of this comprehensive Irailway system is the Grand Trunk Eailway. The hntire length of this line, when completed, will be |1|112 miles. Its eastern terminus is at Trois ' \ t ! |. l!i .! n 84 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. Pistoles, in Lower Canada. Thenco upwards i: proceeds along- the south shore of the St. Linvren';. , passing opposite to Quebec, and continuing; tlii^ westward, readies Montreal. Before reachiiij^- Mon- treal, tlie line effects a junction at Kicliniond, in {[.■■ Eastern Townships, witli a lino of railway to Tor- land, on the Atlantic, in the state of ^Maiiio.^^ *' At Montreal, one of the most stupendous structure of modern times will carry the railway across th' river St. Lawrence, which is hero two miles in wivltli The gigantic undertaking is now in course of (ob- struction, under the superintendence of 'Mv. IJuIrr! Stephenson, whose name is associated with the well- known Britannia Tubular Bridge. f The Yictoria Tubular Bridge of Canada will, however, far sui'iia^- Mr. Stephenson's earlier work. The total span fif the arches will be fijloS feet, besides piers on oith'r side, running into the river, each about half a mil*' long. The span of the centre arch is oGO feet. Tli' number of arches is 25, and, with the exception (>i the centre one, each has a span of 242 feet. Th'^ tube, which is of iron, is 25 feet high, and IS fii' wide. The other parts of the work, including th'^ half mile of piers on either side, are wholly of snlil masonry. The height from the water level of tlie river to the floor of the iron tube, will be (iO f 'it. In order to impart some idea of the strength of this stupendous work, it may be mentioned that eath buttress is calculated to resist the pressure of 70,ouO *The Canadian Government, in their manual for the use of emigrant!, describe this line, now complete, "as being 1,090 miles in lengtb— ikf longest railway in the world." t It was opened by the Prince of Wales on his visit to Caaaua in tt? flammer of 18(i0. M GR.V:VD TRUNK LINE. 85 tuns of ice. The estimated cost of the Victoria tuoular bridge is stated to be £1,400,000. '•From ^lontreal the Grand Trunk line follows the north bank (;f the St. Lawrence, touching the towns of Cornwall, Proscott, and Brockville, to tho city of Kingston on Lake Ontario. "A bnincli line of 55 miles, connected with this part of the main trunk, runs from Bytown to Prescott, .jiiposite t(j tlie American port of Ogdensburgh, where an important connection will bo here formed with I'liited States lines of railway. Another line of aliaiit 80 miles will also be constructed in connection witli tliis section of the Grand Trunk from Montreal t.) Kingston. This is one from Bytown to Montreal, fallowing tlie course of the Ottawa, and joining the Grand Trunk at Yaudreuil, close to the Ottawa, and to the junction of that river with the St. Lawrence. "The Grand Trunk line, i)roceeding westward from Kingston, skirts the shores of Lake Ontario, passing the Bay of Quinte, through the towns of Belleville, Cobourg, and Port Hope to Toronto, the cai»itul of Upper Canada. The length of this, section of the line, from Kingston to Toronto, is about 200 miles ; the length of the line from Montreal to luruuto being 380 miles. "A branch of this section of the Grand Trunk from Kingston to Toronto, extending to 30 miles from Cobourg to the town of Peterborough, on the Pdver Otanabee, will be opened in October, 1855. .Vnother line is also contemplated from Belleville to I'oterburough. The most important line branching from this main section of the Grand Trunk, 45 miles of which are abeady open, is that from Toronto ;i ; ! = ■ 1 i 'A -miftWV^^^^t^^ y !^ Hi i » n ' ' ' i ' i. ii ■■( 86 BllITISn NOllTn AMERICA. northward, passing Lake Sirncoo, and tlirnro con- tinuing to tlio great Georgian Bay on Lako iriir,n From Toronto tlio Grand Trunk liailway |r(KCt4 directly westward tlirougli tlio fertile jicninsula ,[ Upper Canada, passing tlio towns of Guelpli an'l Stratford, and terminating at tlie flourishing townii Sarnia, at the head of the River St. Clair and sou-li. eastern extremity of Lake Huron. The entire krig";; of tlio Grand Trunk line, which is now Leing piishod towards completion, namely t'lat from St. Thomas 40 m:'?s below Quebec, to Guelph in Upper Canada; will be openc^d in September, 1850. The remaining portions of tho system will not be so actively j)m- ceeded with. The direct distance from Trois ristuks to Sarnia is 850 miles. " At Toronto another important railway systtc commences, known as the Great AVestern. TLi^ railway commences from a joint station at Turunio in connection with the Grand Trunk Eaih\ay, airl skirts the head of Lake Ontario to irainilton, <■. dis- tance of 45 miles. It thence proceeds wt'stwarl through the heart of the settled parts of tho groit peninsula, situated between the lakes Ontario, Erii', and Huron, passing through Brandford, Jiondoii, anl Chatham, and terminates at "Windsor, on the hiv'T Detroit, directly opposite to the American city of Detroit, in the state of Michig.an. At this point aii important connection takes place with United States railways. '' The Great "Western line, besides its terminus at Hamilton, diverges to the Falls of Niagara. Tlie Great Western Railway is now open from AVindsor to Hamilton and Niagara Falls, a distance of 220 miles GREAT WESTERN LINE. 87 That portion of it from Hamilton to Toronto, 45 milos in lenpfth, will be opened this year, 1854. " We have now (returning to Lower Canada) to nipntion the St. Lawrence and Champlain llailway, whii-h (OTmects tlio south bank of the St. Lawrence, iijiposite to Montreal, with the head of Lake Cluimp- lain lit Eouso's Point, a distance of 45 miles. At House's I'oint this railway connects with the system of railways to Albany, Boston, New York, and (jther parts of the United States. The lUattsburg Raihvay commences at Caughnawaga, on the south -liore of the St. Lawrence, opposite to Lachine, and runs tu the town of Plattsburg, on Ijake Champlain, a distance of 28 miles. The Montreal and Lachine l.'aihvay, a short line of 9 miles, connects the city it Montreal with the upper part of the island at the village of Lachine. This railway, as also a portion nf tlie 8t. Lawrence and Champlain line, have been inactive operation for several years." The above description will show how complete were the means of locomotion throughout the country even* t>m 3-e ars ago, and how admirably it is adapted to hecomo the abode of civilized man. Postal communi- ratioii also is everywhere perfect. The most distant hamlet has its post-office, and the number of post- offices in Canada is now upwards of 2,000, every month adding to their numbers as new settlements are opened up. A letter may be sent from one end of the province to the other for threepence currency, or twopence halfpenny sterling, which, considering the distance, and the greater expense of transport, is as low a charge as the penny postage of England. The electric telegraph passes through every town, and ^ M i *! 1 ' .M i\ ' !li I 88 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA almost ovory village in the province — there being 4,0^0 miles in operation — with remarkably low char"(s. The arrival, therefore, of a vessel at Quebec nmv L.. known almost at the same momert in evory to^r. and village in both the upper and lower parts of the province. It will have been observed throughout the prpocd- ing sketch that the names of towns and districts in Lower Canada are almost exclusively Froiu h, wliil>t in the Upper Province English and Indian nanus predominate. This dili'erenco indicates the diiloront nationality of the colonists. In Lower Canada tli- inhabitants are for the most French, botli by orifrin, speech, and mode of life. In Upper Canada tli. v are as uniformly Scotch or English. The liisturv of the colony accounts for this difference. Of this history a brief sketch will be found in the n^st chapter. •: li cnAPTEr. Y. HISTORY OF CANADA. Earlv French aettleraenta— Chrtmpliiin— La Salle— The pranileur of his entcrpii'osts at difl'eront places. Ohaniplain jkiv- tratcnl farther into the ecmntry tlian any of iiis [himi,. cessors. In IGOK, he estahlislied a settleinent ou a hill richly clothed with vines and walnut tr.tv This is now (iuehoo. Clianiplain spent the winttT there, and sowed grain, for which ho found the soil well adapted. As soon as tho season admitted, lu- continued his voyage up the river. Tweiity-livt leagues above Quebec he met a band of liilians belonging chiefly to the nation of the Algon(|uins. He most improperly engaged in an expedititni un- dertaken by these Indians against the lro(|U()i^ another largo tribe. He set out with his new allii^ to tho interior of the country, and on this expctlition discovered Lake Champlain, now called by his name In a subsequent expedition, in WAS, he accompanied his Indian allies in a long journey up the Ottawa: then, sometimes carrying tho canoes overland, some- times launching them on the lakes or rivers, they continued their march till they came to Lake Nipissing, north of liake Huron. The country through wliieh lie passed is described as in many places broken and rocky, though not mountainous, and completely im- cultivated ; yet there was a profusion of berries and delicate small fruits, which the natives preserved for winter use. The Nipissings, about 700 or 800 in :weivoinidvte frc :„) in hn'adtl „t Lako nui distinct bodj Mands .vhii I'uittin^' Lid] and atta. keJ ^v,is woundecl lieft're againj After a VI \\itli a new ill an unsatlij part in the] Iii)(|Uois, an arms a dost tlio colonist! turts, war bi was surrenc proceeded 1 with the r between tl adjustment nient set te restoration depve'cated length pr Avlieu the they yiel treaty, ha SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. 91 number, who iiiliaLitod tlie Bliorea of tliis lake, nct'ivod tho party well. After remaining two days, tli.v luiulti their way by land and water to tho coast (if tho great lake Attigouantan, wliich apptMired a (..inplt'tt' fresh-water sea, JU)0 leagues in length hy ;,ii ill ])n'udtli. Tliis was evidently tho nortliern part (,1' Lake Huron, which seems to he separated into a distinct hody of water by the continuous chain of Uhwh '.vhich extend parallel to the shore. After (jiiitting Lake Huron, they struck into the interior, and iitta'ked the fort of the Iroquois. Champlain «, IS wounded in the fight, and endured much suil'ering lit'f(tre again readiing the European settlement. After a visit to Franct, he again set sail in 1G20, with a new band of cohmists. lie found the colony in an unsatisfactory state. The French having taken jiirt iu tlie wars between the Algonquins and the h'()(jUois, and having supplied the Indians with fire- anus, a destructive contest had been carried on, and the colonists had suifered. To add to their discom- t'urts, war broke out with the English settlers, (iueboe was .surrendered to Sir I)avid Kirk, and Champlain proceeded to London for the purpose of conferring with the French ambassador there. The differences between tho two nations were now in a train oi adjustment ; but a large party in the French govern- ment set too little value on the settlement to think its restoration worth insisting upon. Champlain strongly dejireeated tliis view of the subject; his counsels at lou^^th prevailed at the court of Louis xiii, ; and when the English found the matter seriously pressed, they yielded without much difficulty. The final treaty, however, was not signed till the 29th March, Mi i i .[■ *' 1 i 1 ! .J r, 1. ii 1M i '4 ! '; ij'i & ' i " J ill-', J I Ml ! I" .4 It; ,1 ,, I Mi ■ \] - i' \ '■ II'l 92 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 1632. Charles i. relinquislied to Louis xiii. tlie right which England had always claimed, by reason of the d'scovery of Cabot, to this portion of Amerioa: upon which Canada, Acadia (Nova Scotia), and Isl- Eoyale (Cape Breton), Avere re-occupied by tlif French. To tlie French is due the discovery of the Missis- sippi, called by the natives Meohasipi. Heariiiij >u a great river, they despatched Marquette, a wriest. and Jolyet, a merchant of Quebec, who, with onl\ six followers, sailed in two birch-bark cani it- through the lakes, down Lake Michigan, till tluv landed at Chicago, at its southern extremity, and thence proceeded south till they reached the miirlity stream. Their description of the country fired tli" imagination of the Sieur de Salle, a young man . family and fortune, with the hope, one day to h: realized, of effecting a passage to China and Ja})un through the unexplored regions of the west ol Canada. Returning to France to obtain aid, h' associated with himself the Chevalier de Toiiti, an officer who had lost an arm in the Sicilian wars, ami the celebrated Father Ilennessin, who wrote u graphic account of the expedition. It was judged necessary to build a vessel above the Falls of Niagara, and to the spot which had been selected, all stores, arms, and material of every description had to be conveyed. The keel of this the first vessel of any size liuilt to navigate those inland seas was laid on the 2Gtli ul January, 1679. On the 7th of August, tlie priests chanting the Te Deuni, they set sail on the watt^rs oi Lake Erie, and passing thi'ough the Detroit Kiver SIEim DE SALLE. 93 and Lake St. Clair, entered Lake Huron on the 23rd. Here, exposed to a violent tempest, their vessel was nearly lost, and the hearts of the explorers com- pletely failed them ; hnt instead of seeking for stren<:!:th iiid courage from the God who alone could give it, the pilot, wliile La Salle and the rest were on their knees preparing for death, cursed and swore at having l-.vn l)r )ught to perish in a vile lake, and to lose the glory he had acquired by the navigation of the high seas. The storm abated, and the party, re- freshed, sailed through the Straits of Mackinack till they reached Green Bay in Lake Michigan. Hence La Sallo sent back the vessel richly laden with furs, under ( harge of the pilot. She probably foundered in tlit' lake, as she was never again heard of. La Salle, with heroic perseverance, and braving innumerable danfjprs, continued his voyage in canoes, and suc- teeded in embarking on the Mississippi, down which lie proceeded to its very mouth, and then returned to Quebec, after an absence of two years. Once more going back to France, La Salle ol)tained fDinnumd of an expedition to found a settlement at tlie mouth of the Mississippi. Not aware of its longi- tude, he sailed 200 miles beyond it, when his men becoming discontented, murdered him and a nepliew, his second in command. His discovery, however, K'd to the establishment of New Orleans, and sug- irested to the French the design of complotfdy sur- rounding the English settlements, by means of forts, up tho ^lississippi, and along the lakes, so as to have them in their power whenever another war should occur. Had La Salle persevered in his original design, ho might have discovered Lake t I ' 1 n - < ! 1 1 I I •fi ; kl l:h hi . ^ ! J lit ^ ■ ^ I .-I ! I Hi'*: i; r f ![ 94 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. Winnipeg, ascended tlie f*^askatcliewan, and crossing tlie llocky Mountains, have reached the shores of the T' .vific, and opened up that communication Mit!i China which it liad entered into his ardent iuiaf^i- nation to establisli. As it was, his first sclu'iU" was ridiculed by the fur-trading population of thoso days as impracticable, and the name of Lacliiiif was given tc a village to the west of Montreal, estaLlisliel by some returned explorers, as if that were {h fartliest point where they could find rest for tlioirfett to the west.* And in truth, justice has not even yi been done to the judgment and far-seeing powers of La Salle, when he formed his magnificent prnjeit of making La Nouvelle France, embracing as it dil the far distant west, watered by the Winnipojj:, the Assinniboine, the lied River, and the Saskatchewan, the great highway between the Atlantic and tli Pacific. What hardihood and courage wore r((|uin '1 to penetrate into territories inhabited by fierce tri1je<. whose temper and customs were unknown, ))ut wh^ would, at a slight otl'ence, have been aroused intu fierce hostility ! The village of Lachine is the only memorial whiih remains of the miglity project of that noble niiiul— the name bestowed probably rather in ridicade tliiin as a com})liment to the gallant explorin-. llaJ La Salle, instead of turning south, continued hi> course westward, as he luid intended, the shores ol Lake Huron, and Lake Superior, and Lakc^ Win- nipeg, the banks of many other lakes and rivers and of the miglity Saskatchewan, and the rieli t"n"- tory to the south of it, and of the gold- bearing; * L» Cliiue, as it was originally spelt, means China. Hudson's bay company. 95 Fraser, miglit even now have been covered with dgurish.ng towTis, villages, and settlements, which. would have made the work of forming a railway across the continent one of comparatiToly easy ac- complishment. The true North-west passage would have been opened up, and it would have been as- certained tliat none b}' water existed, except in too !;urt}icrn a latitude to make it available for any useful [urpose. Other cnterprizing Frenchmen, some influenced by the love of adventure, some by missionary zeal, and others by the desire to extend the fur trade, pushed westward in the course which has been indicated, . I iipying the territory to the very base of the Eocky Muuiitains, which they claimed as belonging to La Nuuvclle France, or rather to Canada. They estab- lished amicable relations with the natives, erected lurts, round which settlements were formed, and aJvanced civilization to an extent from which it alterwarils greatly retrograded. "Wliilo the French colonists were extending their iiscoveries and pushing tho fur trade in one direction, their riv.'ils, the English, were establishing themselves "11 the bleak shores of Hudson's Bay in tho far north ami north-west. Thev wisely employed every means I y which the alliance 'md good feeling of tho iro(|U(jis Indians coidd be secured, in order to draw tho trade away from the French settlements. To a considcr- :ijit' extent, the Hudson's Bay Company's traders ^;u■(■eerl(;d in their project, in constMpionce of the iiijinlie-ious and restrictive laws by which the French ^vd'o bound. This induced the French to make war on tho Irotj[uois, many of whom, including ^i ' ! I r^f WT i f t i 1 ll I ■ ^'! iMi i ! ; ,!• Hi, n I i; m N ■ i' k f |. 1 96 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. several chiefs, were treacherously seized and sent ir. chains to man the galleys in France, whero, ill all- to brook captivity, they soon perished. The Mar- quis de Denonville, the governor who perpetrated this atiocious act, was, in the following vear, fii hard pressed by an army of Iroquois, who pursu.,1 him from Niagara almost to the very gates of Montreal, that he was compelled to agree to the proposals they offered him, among wliicli was the restoration of the captive chiefs, and all otiier jri- soners. The stipulations of this treaty wero in part fulfilled by the Count de Frontenac, who landed a: Montreal in 1G89, with the survivors of the capture! chiefs. The Indians of those days were very different to the remnant now to be found in any part of North America. They counted their warriors b}' thousand?, and were formidable opponents. It would be im- possible here to give anything like a clear account of the conflicts which took place between themra the one side, and the French and those tribes allien had become allies of the French on the oth(n'. The French settlers had thus English enemies on th? north-west in the Hudson's Bay traders, and th" Indians under their influence, they had foes in ♦h-^ inhabitants of the New England provinces, and the Indians in alliance with them, and the settlements below Quebec were especially open to an attack by sea. The most formidable attack was that on Quebec, made by a fleet and army, fitted out at Boston, under Sir W. Fhipps. By the bravery of Do Fronteniic it was successfully rep'ilsed an* I compelled to retiuu COMPANY OF A HUNDRED TARTNERS. 97 Tlie French governor purposed to retaliate, and was littiii" out ijn expedition to attack New York, in ]ii47, when the news of the treaty of Eyswick ar- rived. AVur, however, again broke out between the tTi) rival powers in 1702. In truth, as will bo seen, tlie coluuists of these two civilized nations, instead of devoting their time to the cultivation of the grnimd, and to the develoj^mont of the vast re- fiiiirct'S of the territory, were engaged in each other's (Instruction, and in encouraging the natives in those Jreadi'ul acts of barbarity for which they are only too nutorious. There was, however, another cause which prevented the progress of the settlement and till' ostublishment of that enlightened policy by which alone it could succeed. To point it out we have to gij somcwliat back in our history. Many of the first settlors were Huguenots. Men of every cla.^s, from nobles of the highest rank down tu hunil>lo labom-ers, fled to Canada to escape from persecution and secure the priceless privilege of liberty to worship God. This, of course, was ex- .t.t.dingly distasteful to the dominant party in France, aud by the influence of the Jesuits a large number of priests, monks, and nuns were sent over to euforc) the Itoman Catholic faith. A powerful aiisociation was formed, called the ''Company of a Hundred Partners," the primary object of which was !^t't forth to be " the conversicm of the Indians to the Catholic faith, an extension of the liir trade and of )Uimerce generally, and the discovery of a route to tlie Piicilic Ocean and to China through the great rivers and lakes of New France." Protestants and '^thci lujrctics, as well as Jews, weie entirely ex- u il ii I. • r' I ?■ I , !l 'i^ I : ? DM ■ f Mi ( « I I'll i . « li'i M (i .^ ;i 1,:^ " H i ■): '■ it .^'' 98 BRITISH KOBTH AMERICA. eluded from the colory, and a Jesuit corps was ^ be supported by the Company. As may bo supposed, the colony languished under a system so pernicious, Its evil results are indeed to be found among the French population to the present day. It is interesting to observe that the New England colonists, faithful to their character, sent an envov to Canada with proposals to establish a lasting' peace between Lho colonies, not to be disturbed even although the mother-countries should be at war. The oH'er was accepted on condition that the Englii-h would join tlio French in destroying the Irocjuois, To this condition the New Englanders firmly refused to consent, and the negotiationfi were broken oii. Soon after this jealousies between the two colonies again sprang up, and, instead of peace, a state of warfare commenced which continued for many years, the Indian tribes engaging fiercely, some on one side, some on the other. By the treaty of Utrecht, signed on the 3flth of March, 1713, pence was restored between France and England. France retained Canada, but re- signed Acadia (Nova Scotia) and Newfoundland. The population of the colony at that date amountnl to 25,000, of whom 5,000 were said to bo capaUe d bearing arms, thougli this is probably an exaggera- tion. Commerce and agricidtuio were nnuh neg- lected, the fur trade (ever the greatest bane to true colonization) and military expeditions better suitins: the taste of the colonists. Thus, although (luelec contained 7,000 inhabitants, a large number uf whom prided themselves on their ranlc and fashion, great poverty and absolute distress prevailed in tlie I'BENCn DIVISION OF CANADA. 99 city. The settled portions of Canada above and belovr Quebec had been divided among about one hundred persons of distinction, these portions being called Seigniories. These were again divided into sections of 100 to 300 acres, and let to persons who Irouglit them, by degrees, under cultivation, but, Iv the French laws of inheritance, being divided and subdivided among children, the whole of the lirst settled part of the province was cu''.. up into small faniis, which now with difficulty support their pro- prietors. The Seigniories themselves have become also so much divided that the 'leir of the original proprietor retains little more than an empty title. Above Uuebec was the settlement of Trois Rivieres, not containing more than 800 inhabitants, mostly eniraged in trade. Montreal was somewhat larger. Beiug surrounded by friendly- Indians, it suffered little from the ravages of war, and from its com- manding position it was already monopolising most of the trade of the country. Above Montreal not a iCttlcment was to be found, although a series of wretched forts had been constructed which could M arcely hold their own against the attacks of hostile Indians. The most western stood at the point where Lakes Huron and Michigan unite. It was called Fort Midiilliinakinac. Its capture by the treachery of the hidiaus of tho Five Nations forms a romantic but Uuody episode in the history of the colony. The numerous priests and monks of various orders 111 Canada, although they might have assisted in tiio civilization of the Indians, kept the settlers in a state of superstitious ignorance, and contributed to retard tho progress of the colony. Tho policy of -li ) ( t' i '1 1 . ' III it' \ t '\ ,■ !: L * I il'i , It ' :(■! Jit ■'■■' ii ' 111 I '; I W' i i, \ II i I j! 'I 100 BRITISH NOUXn AMEIIICA. France, too, was to make it a military ratlior than an agricultural settlement, and, consequently, in muttiiii] prosperity the settlers found themselves far out- stripped by their I'ritish neighbours. By the yoar 17o(), -when the Marcpiis de Montcalm arrived in Canada with a considerable army, the colony (t Massachusetts alone could muster 40,000 men, tiiat of Connecticut 27,000, and other settleiiKiits piu. portionate numbers, to oppose him. At lirst \h Canadians gained some successes, but in the yi^r 1759, a British fleet sailing up the St. liiiwrenfe, landed the army of the brave General WoU'e umltr the Heights of Abraham ; the plains were gained, tk two leaders fell at the moment that victory deolaroi for the British, and Quebec M'as their reward. TLi- history of this battle, so glorious to British arii;^ and so important in its results, is well tuld Ijy Montgomery Martin : — *' Tlie Marq^uis de Montcalm made vigorous prt- ^parations for the defence of Quebec ; his armed fur'f consisted of about lo,000 men, of whom .six Imt- talions were regulars and the remainder well dii^ri- plined Canadian troops, with some cavahy an! Indians ; his army was ranged from the liiver St, Lawrence to the Falls of Montmorenci, readv tv oppose the landing of the British. Ho posses-nd also a few vessels of war and some lire-s)u[is, with which an attempt was made to destroy the Kni;ii>li Heot, but they M-ere caught by grappling irons, and towed safely past. The strength of De Montcalm'^ defences was jiroved by the unsuccessful attempt made by Brigadier-general Monckton, who (K.(Upit'ii Point Levi, opposite Quebec, to bombard the cai»ital; i i CAPTURE OF QUEBEC. 101 and, again, by the failure of the attack of the 31st of July, headed by Wolfe, on the entrendiments at Jlintmorenci, in which the assailants were repulsed with a loss of 182 hilled and Cu'A) wounded, including 11 officers killed and 46 wounded. The boats, it is gaitl, in which the British landed were accidentally delayed, the grenadiers rushed forward too eagerly, and the French, strongly posted, and aided by many Indian riiiomen, poured on them destructive fire, which compelled their retreat. "Wolfe keenly felt this disappointment, and ex- pressed, in his despatches home, his doubt of being aide to reduce Quebec during that campaign, as the fleet, his strongest arm, was ineffective against the roiky wall on which the citadel stood, and the positions of the French were, moreover, guarded by troops more numerous than his own. As soon as he had partially recovered from a violent fever, caused ly griff and anxiety acting on a feeble frame, he called a council of war, in which it was agreed to act on the bold suggestion proposed by General Town- send, of attempting to gain the Heights of Abraham, wliith commanded the weakest point of the city. Wolfe accordingly commenced operations, and con- ducted them with an address, secrecy, and presence of mind rarely ecjualled. He deceived the French by still appearing to direct his whole attention to the Montmorenci entrenchments, and at nightfall on the 12th of 8ep>tember, 17o9, the troops, consisting of the loth, 22nd, 28th, 3.5 th, 40th, 4;]rd, 45th, 47th, 48th, o8th, GOth (2nd and 3rd battalions), and 78th regiments, with a corps of rangers, embarked in two divisions ; the boats dropped silently down the river, ! 1 i: ' ii : i r ' ii ■■'[' ; ' 1 Si i ! I 1H 102 BRITISH NOXITH AMERICA. I 1 t t it i'. II lv\ 1 . i ;!■ •l: \\ 't ■H ii i 'I I- % ■• I. .il il : ' 3(i' and tlio troops landed in sirfety at the place now called Wolfe's Cove. ** Hero a new difficulty presented itself — the ascor.' was so precipitous that AVolfe is said to have doulit. ; its being practicable ; but the soldiers, led by Fniz. r' Highlanders, and aided by the branches (if shrul-; and roots of trees growing among the rodcs, su. ceeded in reaching the summit, where tlicv wtn^ speedily drawn up in regular order. Dc ^Funtdili,, maddened by finding his vigilance had failpd in guarding this important pass, lost his usual pnidonci, and seeing that liis opponent liad gained so huk li liv hazarding all, he, with an infatuation for wliitli only strongly excited feeling can account, resolved iijtun meeting the British in battle array on the plains ,.f Abraham, without even waiting the return of 2,0ii'i men despatched by him as a corps of observatinr. under Do Bougainville, to Cape Rouge, nine milv;; above Quebec. The French sallied forth from tlii ;r almost impregnable fortress without field artilltiv, and with a heat and precipitation which, under th? circumstances, strangely contrasted with the v'oolne?s and precision of the British. The eagle eye ol Wolfe took in at a glance all the details of his posi- tion. He knew that for him retreat was next to impossible ; yet while directing his main attention !> the steady advance of his right division, he skilfully covered his flanks, and endea oured to preserve tlieir communication with the shore. Both armies may bi' said to have been without artillery, the French having only two guns, and the English a lidit cannon, which the soldiers had dragged up th- heights with ropes; the sabre and the bayonet CAPTTJIIE OF QUEBEC. 103 accordinp:ly decided the day, and never was the nonous strenji^th of the British arm more manifestly displayed. The a^ile Scotch Highlandors powerfully wieldpfl their stout claymores, and lilled the place of cavalry, wliile tlie steady lire of the English fusiloprs compensated, in some degree, the absence of artillery. "On Iho part of the French 1,.500 light infantry, and somo Indian riflemen, advanced first, and began a desultory lire ; but the British reserved their shot for tho main body, and opened no general fire in return until their opponents were within forty yards. Thty tlion discharged a deadly volley, whif.h vVolfe luUuwed up by charging with the bayonet, at the head of the grenadiers of the 22nd, 4()th, and 50th reijimonts, who had acquired the honourable title of Louisbiirg grenadiers. Although wounded by a ball in the wrist, and another in the groin, and suffering from fever and dysentery, he still pressed on against the French, who fought with fury, heightened by tlie fanaticism excited in them by the priests against the Englisli lieretics. The heroism of De Montcalm was as conspicuous as that of his illustrious opponent ; botli headed their men — both rushed with eagerness wherever the battle raged most liercely, and often by their personal prowess and example changed the furtune of the moment — both acutely sensible of the responsibility of their respective positions, and stimu- lated by the enthusiasm wliich only those who have mixed in the heady current of battle can conceive — though repeatedly wounded still pressed on at the head of their men, till, almost at the same moment, both of these gallant commanders received their , i jpiiSl n^ tmt ..S^ ^ ^ f, 104 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. Si <■ I M (lefttli wound. A ball entered tlio breast of Wolfo, who, faint witli tlio Iohh of blood, reeled, nnd Irant af^ain.st the slioulder of one of his olTicers, whisper- ing', * Support mo ! let not my bravo soMi.m spo mo drop.' llo was carried to some distanc <• in tli- roar; his eyes were waxing dim, and tho lirt'-Llodfl ebbing fawt from his strong and goneroUH ln-art, wlien tho ery of * They run ! they run I ' ront the air, and seemed to stay for a moment his ilcctin,' spirit. ' WIio run?' ho eagerly inquired. 'Tiic French,' was tho reply. 'Tlien,' siiid tlio gonoral. 'pray, do ono of you run to Colonel IJavinn, unl toll him to march Webb's regiment with all sik-cmI down to Charles Ivivor, to cut oil' tho retreat of t!i.^ fugitives. Now, God be praised! I shall die liiippy.' Tho patriotic soldier then closed his ey( s, aivl exiured. Tho gallant ]\[riests an;! monastic orders ; the French language was still to bo employed in all public matters and legal dixu- ments ; they exchanged a condition of anarchy ft.ir one of order and tranquillity, and instead of tlio PROSPERITY UNDER EXOLISn RULE. 105 irirr^iHini::^ extortion to whicli thoy had been flu]>joct i!,, V now onjoyod mild and equal laws. Freed from ,,,n>taiit military service, tlio eolonists were al)lo to • im thoir enerj^ios towards the cultivation of the Imd, tlit're])y greatly increasing their li(ave(l when, on tlio outbreak of the American War ()flii(l('I)ciidence, they refused to join the Kepublicans, ninl ti^^hting bravely on the side of the IJritish rulers, (Iruvo back the invaders of their province. At tho time of tho cfmc^uest the popidation amounted to il.j,0()() souls, very nuich less than tho present popu- lation of the city of Montreal alone. Tho part of Canada lirst settled was known as tho rroviiue of Quebec from ITO.'J up to 1791, wlien, in umsoiiuenco of the settlement of tho northern and western shores of Lake Ontario by Englishmen and I'lvulists from tiie revolted provinces, it was divided inttt tlu^ two provinces of Upper ami l^ower Canada, tlio Upper being under a lieuteuiuit-governor. TIio chief event during the AV^ir of Independence connected with Canada was the combined attack in mid-winter on the province by Generals M(mtg(;mery ami Arnold. The first succeeded in capturing Montreal, and tlio latter had got within twenty-ono miles of Quebec, when, by a masterly nn^vement. General Carleton, who had been engaged before Montreal, evading Arnold, threw himself into the furnier city. Alter a short siege, an attempt was made on the night of the 31st of December to curry I ;i i -' .1 if. Wli^Hrtlw«M>A^ ►^&...*ti.1L-».-. • ^1 Hi m Mi V t ( n {r. ■ ■ 3S8 U ii iiil i ■ )\ ;i i t i 106 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. the city by assault, during the raging of a fearful enow storm. The assailants approached in Bilencf-, hoping to take the city by surprise, but were dis- covered and driven back with a tremendous fire of artillery and musketry, Montgomery and inaiiv officers and men being among the slain. Wlieii th- morning dawned, not a trace of the attackinj^ ara:v could 1)0 seen, the survivors had retreated, and tliv dead lay shrouded beneath the sheet of snow whiih thickly covered the ground. From this period (1776) to the outbreak of the second American war in 1812, the population of tli' province steadily increased, as did its general pro>- perity. At this time settlements extended not only round Lake Ontario but along the course of tli> Niagara River and the coasts of Lake Erie, as well as in the interior of the peninsula of Upper Canada, On the derdaration of war between England and th- United States, two brave and judicious men wcii found at the head of affairs. Sir George Prevost a^ governor, and General Brock as lieutenant-govornir of Upper Canada. So excellent was the spirit infiist 1 into the inhabitants by General Brock that lie was able to attack the American General Hull and ti compel him and his army to surrender prisoiitrs ^i war. This success infused great confidence into the hearts of the colonists, and undoubtedly contriljuttl much to the happy termination of the contest in favour of British interests. The inhabitants of the Lower l*rovince with the greatest alacrity took up arms, and wore quickly in a position to resir>^ f'ly attempt at invasion the enemy were likely to make. On the lakes the Americans gained the superiority WAR "WTTH TJIOTED STATES. 107 bv the ease with which they were able to construct and launch vessels. With a quickly extemporised tleet, Commodore Perry captured the entire British force on Lake Erie. General Proctor soon after- wards also lost the greater portion of the small army under liim. This disaster was, however, compensated fur by the gallant repulse, by Colonel do Salaberry, of a hostile force under General Hampton in Lower Canada. The last attempt against the Lower Province was by a force of 3,000 men under General Wilkinson, which was repulsed by a mere handful of British regulars. In the Upper Province the chief scene of the war was along the Niagara frontier. It was here, whilst resisting the advance of the enemy at Queenstown, that the gallant l^rock fell. Burlington Heights, above the town of Hamilton, were the scene of some severe fighting. It was near tlitro that Colonel Harvey, with only 704 bayonets, entered the camp of the enemy, 3,000 strong, during the night, killing and wounding many, and carrying off two generals and 1 20 prisoners. The an'ival of Sir James Yeo, with a number of naval officers and men, in the Upper Province, gave the superiority on the lakes to the British, and, happil}-, on the 24th of December, 1814, a treaty of peace between Great Britain and the United States was signed at Ghent. On the yth of IVIarch it was made known at Quebec liy Sir (loorge Prevost. Loft to enjoy the advantages of peace, the colonists made even greater progress than before the war. As early as 1809 the first steam-boat — the Accommodation —was launched on the St. Lawrence ; the second — the Su'iftsure — made her first trip during the war in f ^ m\ ii, l"5. . i , ■? m «!ll '11 4 HI .1 ■■\ I . I! ■ !' \r^ r\ i; ! ■■ I! jt 5 li 108 BRITISH NORVH AMERICA. 1813. Tier length on deck was 140 feet, and hor beam 24 feet. Two other boats were startinl in 1816, and in 1818 one commenced running botworn Builalo on Lake Erie to Michillimackinac on Laico Huron. The Duke of Eichmond arrived out as governor in 1818, and on tlio following year, unha])|tily, t\;;> deprived of life by the bite of a mad dog wliile on a tour tlirough the Upper Province. The celoljrati d Ilideau Canal, between Kingston and Otta'\\;i, was, in 1819, begun by the British government, under tlio 8U])orintendence of Colonel r)y, of the Engin(>ers, for the purpose of connecting the Ottawa Eivei- Avith the lakes. The town, built at the northern cnil, was then called Bytown, in honour of the founder, but has recently been changed to Ottawa. Prosperous as was the colony, there were, it appears, certain causes of discontent. ThesK wor re greatly exaggerated by factious persons, mIio, for the sake of getting power into their own liands, proposed to make the province independent of the mother-countrv. Finding* that their demands wcro not likely to be attended to, they, in 1837, induced many of the misguided peasantry to take up arms. In the Lower Province a la^^go body of insurgents were defeated by a party of soldiers under Colonel Gare, when three hundred of the former were killed, and their leaders escaped into tne United States. In the Upper Province the inhabitants put to lliglit a rebel force, who offered but slight resistance. It was at this period that the steamer Caroline, after conveying a body of American sympathizers across the Niagara Eiver, was burnt by a party of JEALOUSIES OF THE SETTLERS. 109 British militia, and allowed to drift over tlie Falls, a man named ""Jiirfee being killed in the aflra}'. In the year 1841, i settler — McLcod by name — in the !:;ost unjustifiable manner was seized in the State of Xeu' York, and tlirown into prison, accused of luin^ tlio murderer of Durfee. For many months it was doubtful whether lie would not be found guilty and executed, in which event England must have declared war against the United States. Happily, he was able to prove an alibi, not having even been present at the destruction of the Caroline, and he was liijorated. Lord Durham was sent out in 1800, for the purpose of adjusting the affairs of the province, iiii'l Iho insurgent i)arty had no reason to complain if any want of leniency on the part of the govern- mout. All real grievances were effectually remedied, and since that time not a single cause of complaint has been discovered. Lord Durham recommended thu amalgamation of the two provinces, which was cli'ected in 1839 by Mr. Poulett Tliompson, who succeeded Lord Durham as governor-general. IIo sent home a very unfavourable report of the state of feeling in the colony. All political and liatriotic feeling seemed niorged in hostilities of ract.', language, and religion. Mutual jealousies and avt'v.siuns raged between the French and English settlers. Every public question, every appointment, was regarded with favour or hostility just as it was considered to be a French or English proposition. Mr. ]\Iontgomery Martin quotes a despatch from the guvornur-guneral, in which he says, "No man looks to a practical measuij of improvement. Talk to i ■ i' f I i III I M 1 l' ]i •ssSSSutiJt^ » I 111 I * I t h i ! !)• III 'Ml I *' i^ 'I: 1 l\ 111 II I- 1 ■ I ■i ' i' ! I !«>' ^ P'. W t f 110 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. any one of education, or public works, or better laws — you might as well talk so mucli Greek to him. They have only one feeling — a hatred of race. Tho French hate the English, and the English liate the French. Every question resolves itself into that, ard that alone." The efforts of successive governors have been directed to eradicate this baneful state of mutual alienation, and to amalgamate the people into one homogeneous whole. These efforts have been, to a great extent, successful. Pre-eminently serviceable in promoting this most desirable issue was the wise, tem- perate, concihatory, yet firm policy pursued Ly Lord Elgin. A certain amount of rivalry still exists, and the embers of hostility between the two great races are even yet smouldering beneath the ashes. But year by year these feelings are dying. A generous com- petition — which shall do most to promote the interests of their common country — is taking the place of the former hostility and aversion. The result is, tlmt in no former period of its history has Canada made such rapid strides, or enjoyed such great prosperity. ISy the blessing of God this progress will yet continue, and that vast territory become the home of multi- tudes of happy, peaceful, and prosperous settlers. TO^TNS, pon ^n CHAPTEE VI. lOVrSS, POPULATION, AXD EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM OF CANADA. Chief towns of Canada : Quebec, Montreal, Three Rivers, Sberbrooke, Ottawa, Kingston, Toronto, Hami ^on, London— Educational aystem of Canada— Universities, colleges, and schools — Religious statistics — Popula- tion—Influence of Protestantism and Catholicism on the population. IIavixo described the physical aspects of Canada, and narrated the history of its discovery and explora- tion, we now come to the towns and cities which have sprung up with such wonderful rapidity, and thriven with such marked prosperity, on the shores of its Likes and rivers. It would be impossible to describe in detail the numerous townships which have come into existence in districts which, a few years ago, Were primeval wilderness, overgrown with forest, and viJted only by the lumberer or the trapper. We must, therefore, confine ourselves to such as from tiieir size or history possess some importance. Takiug- the St. Lawrence as our guide, and follow- ing tlie course of that mighty stream, to which Canada I'wes so large a part of her prosperity, we find on !• near its banks the following important towns and ities: — Quebec, Montreal, Three Rivers, Toronto, I'ttawa, Kingston, Hamilton, and London. Quebec, the first reached on ascending the St. Lawrence, is finely situated on its northern bank. * 't »■ ■;> ifi- s; M- ; I- * -^ 1 ! \ 1 i ': 1 ;. !'■ < \ t ' i; i ■ I' . i I: ) i. I i ^ ti » 1- I ' .1 1* , < i 112 BRITISH NORXn AMERICA. It rises li'om the water's edge up a steep liill, ^\-ith its frowninj^ fortress on the summit, and on the loft aro the far-famed Heights of Abraham, whore Woli'e fill ■while winning this province for England. Oueljoc can hardly bo called a well-built city, for, thoii^li tin r.. are some fine buildings, the stroots are very irrcguLir. For many years it was the undisputed capital of t!.- province, and is still the seat of Government. It i.s divided into the upper and lower town, witli stiY;<.'t.s winding up from the one to the other, ricturosquc us it is when seen from the water, or from the opposite shore, the view from the city itself— especially fi-um the citadel, the pubhc gardens, or the platform— is still more beautiful. On the right are the clili's undt r the Heights of Abraham, the tree-clothed shores which front them, and the majestic river llowing down from far-oif lakes, and fed by countless streams. Beljw is the bay and harbour, covered with sliijipiiiL', and capable of holdit.g the largest fleet ever colloctoJ. On the opposite shore are the romantic cliffs of Point Levi ; on the left the fertile Isle of Orleans, covered with hamlets, and the winding Eiver St. Charles, with numerous heights and points of land, some with villages perched on them, and others still thiclvly covered with wood ; while in the far-off oast and north-east rise range beyond range of dark an I frowning moimtains, beginning at Cape Torment, aiul extending in a semicircle towards the west to the Bonhommo Mountains — a wild region, across wliiili civilization has only of late begun to force its way. Quebec has numerous churches, convents, hospitals, a government-house (more than once burnt ilowir, public libraries, colleges, and other public buildiujis. QUEBEC — MONTREAL. 113 ]hny mercaniilG houses have their head-qnartors liere. It is the chief mart of the timber trade, and ships of very considerable burden are built in its yards at the mouth of the Eiver St. Charles. The population f,f t. La^Tcnce, and other important districts, and with Kinp^ston and the lakes by canal. A line suspension- iriil stores and shops are renuu'kably handsome. Nd ( i;y in Canada possesses so many advantages for a n-si- dence. Those of an educational kind are esiiecially great. It has two Universities, Ujtper Canada Col- lege, Knox's College, County of York Grammar School, the Provincial Normal School, and Model School, besides many public and private stliools, both for boys and girls. Toronto is a tliorouglily English town in the manners, customs, and feeiin;:' ui its inhabitants, and it enjoys most the conveniences of life to be found in any of the larger cities of tlio old country. The long list of societies, associations, companies, manufactories, steam-boats, sailing vessels water-works, gas-works, hospitals, barracks, etc., bt- longing to Toronto, would prove this, while rail- ways branch off from it in every direction. In HAMILTON — LONDON. 117 iHJl it had 30,000 inhabitants; in 18G1, nearly JO.OOO. Ilainilti'ii is 45 miles south-west of Toronto, beauti- f,;llv .situated on the shore of Burlington Bay, an inlet vi Lake < )utario. A narrow strip of land running atroi's till! mouth of the bay, makes the harbour cuiiii)letoly land-locked. Hamilton is spread out oa an extensive plain, backed by a range of hills, or rath' r a plateau, called the Mountain, on the edge of which aru situated a number of picturesque man- >:oDs and villas, belonging to the leading merchants of the city. In the valley in which the plain ter- Miinates on the west, stands the residence of the late well-known Sir Allan M'Nab. As affording all the conveniences of life, Hamilton is not inferior to luronto. It has well laid-out broad streets, wide si|uares, good shops, and many handsome edifices. In 18.31 it had about 11,000 inhabitants; in 1861 upwards of 19,000, of whom by far the larger num- ber arc Protestants. Hallways and steam-boats make a(( es8 to it easy ; and as it stands in one of the richest agricultural districts of Upper Canada, it will probably continue to increase. London, situated on the river Thames, 75 miles west of Hamilton, in the richest agricultural district ijf Canada, has risen with great rapidity. Its settle- ment began in 1827, and it increased so fast that in 1834 a fresh survey was required; and though it has several times been burnt down, it has risen afresh from its ashes. In 1851 it had 6,000 inhabitants; in 18G1, 12,000. By railway the traveller is con- veyed in a short time to the shores of Lakes Huron, Ontario, Erie, Simcoe, St. Clair, or the Georgian I* n M.i If f f> I 'l 5! I ( PI I y,: \ ME I'if '! 1 .^1^ iiS :!> f i i. i 118 BTlITISn NORXn AMERICA. Bay. It possosseB a groat nuniher rf fino building's, its streets tiro well laid out, its shops good, ami it is altogether a pleasant residoneo. Besides tho cities which have been nicn^ioiiod. there are numerous largo towns in tho U|i{((r Province whicli are rapidly increasing in sizo, .mirli as Gait, Brontford, Guelph, I'aris, ]iro(;kvilli>, Pcrtli, Cobourg, Port Hope, I'oterborough, Godcaidi, and many others. So rapidly does the jjopuliition of many districts increase, that what aro to-day luorr handots may in a very few years become to\Mi,s anl cities. Pew countries in the world possess greater ediua- tional advantages than Canada. It has nuinLTcms colleges for advanced students, and schools opon to all, either entirely free or at a small charge, lor tli^ great mass of the people. Of the former class X\\m are in Toronto, tho University of Toronto, University College, Upper Canada College, Knox CoUe},", Congregational College of British North Aniorica, St. Michael's College, and Trinity College; i:i Kingston, Pegiopolis College, and Queen's Collofre: in Cobourg, Victoria College ; in Lennoxvill'', Bishop's College; in Montreal, McGill College; in Ottawa, a college and ecclesiastical seminary fur training Poman Catholic priests. This list is far from exhaustive. Many more might be mentioned. These, however, will sufiice to show how great aro the facilities afforded for the acquisition of a thorough classical education. In addition to these imiversities and college?, which are designed for the more advanced students, . r PUBLIC SCHOOLS. 119 there are a large nuraljor of schools of various IcincU and grud'.'S, wliolly or in i>urt supported by the (loverniiH'iit, and which are under the «jeneral con- trul of tlio Council of Education. Thoy aro open to all classes in the coniniunity, and aro conducted without any regard to denominational and sectarian ilistinctionH. These public schools may bo divided into the following classes : — 1. Tiieu the ages of 5 and 16 years Colleges Normal and Model Schools Grammar Schools 2W,7o,> Common Schools 3,filil Iti: 7.11 ! .11.5 2,'>'Jl i 5,i:a Private Schools Total Educational Institutions Students in Colleges Students in Normal Si-hools ... Students in Grammar Schools Students in Common Schools... Students in Private Schools ... Total Students and Pupils Total sums expended for edu- cational purposes 3,077 3,240 40'^ 1,120 138,465 3,648 684 376 2,070 151,N!)1 4,663 159,68.* 632 3bO 2,550 170,254 3,94S 141.366 177,761 lss,«lo £•17(5,071 £88,478 £102,725 £151.213 The census returns of 18G1 show that the work of education is stiU progressing. In that year the num- ber of common schools in Uj)per Canada had risen to 4,019, with 329,918 scholars. The total number of educational institutions was returned as 4,oo'J, attended by about 345,000 pupils and scholars. In Lower Canada the schools are much less nume- rous. This is to be partly accounted for by the com- l)arative indilference of the Roman Catholic pupulatiuu ( 11. BELIGIOUS STATISTICS. 121 tjthe iidvantages of education — an mclIfTerenco en- couraj.;ed by the priesthood — and partly from the aversion of the French Canadians to taxation. It is satisfactory to find, however, that even in Lower Caiiala the advantaHMl 942,721 30;j,3S4 43,«t7 341,572 30,5S2 61,5.")9 7,751 21,209 K57 9,357 4,927 13,S19 4>i2 27,780 7,049 In addition to these there are several small con- P'e^nitions of which no exact statistics can be pro- cured. The Protestant element, as this table shows, preponderates greatly in the Upper Province. Of the l,o9G,09l inhabitants only 258,141 are Roman Catliuhcs. In the Lower Province, however, of the 1,110,064 inhabitants, 942,724 are Roman Catholics, ';! I \l ( ! I; 122 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. Hi '! I il i: t •1 ■, \i against 167,940 Protestants. Thus in the LoTver Province there are nearly six times as many Iioman Catholics as Protestants. The following comparative table of the popiilatinn of Upper and Lower Canada, will show how j^reat of late years has been the increase of the former :— liower Canada, 1831 611,920 Upper Canada, 1832 261,060 Excess of Lower Canada . 250,860 Lower Canada, 1841 690,782 Upper Canada, 1812 486,055 Excess of Lower Canada. 204,727 Upper Canada, 1851 952.i*M Lower Canada, 1851 Miii,2i;i Excess of Upper Canada . ti! .rij Upper Canada, 1861 l,;^9 dollars; the duiy on which amounted to 4,()o2,748 dollars.* The productions of Canada may be classified under 'H % \ \i\ i , «;T If I ', • In 1S61 the value of the exports was 36,014,195 dollars ; tho imports, «,'J5l,3«6 dollars. s ■hi r T' I'll ^^ li 1; H i i 'I 128 BRITISH NOIlTn AMERICA. the following heads : — Mines, Fisheries, For. est;. Animals and their Products, Aoricultuual I'liu. duce. Manufactures, aud Ships ruilt. The total values of the articles exported uikIo: each of these heads during the year 18G2, are thus returned bv the Government . — Mines. — Copper, cojjper ore, iron ore, pip: ami scrap iron, mineral or earth oil, stone : 7u2,!Mii dollars. Fisheries. — Dried, smoked, pickled, and fn-h fish ; oil ; furs and skins, tlie produce of frciituios living in the seas: 70.^,890 dollars. Forests. — Ashes, pot and pearl; tinibor — ii>-h, birch, elm, maple, oak, white jiine, rod piiio, tana- rack, walnut, banwood, butter-nut, and Jiickury, staves, masts, &c. : 9,48:^,897 dollars. Animals and their Fjioducts. — Ilorsos, hornnl cattle, swine, sheep, poultry, beef, bacon, hvM< grease (only 730 dollars worth), furs, honey, talldw, wool (value of wool 724,830 dollars) : ;i,iL';)../,'ij dollai*s. Agricultural Produce. — Barley, flax, flour, prcon fruit, hops, hay, Indian corn, maple sugar, tobacco, vegetables, wheat, etc. : 15,041,002 dollars. Manufactures. — Woollen fabrics, rags, cotton*. linen, furs, leathers, wood and India-rubber article*. carriages, macliinery, musical instruments, hnh, boxes, glass, plaster, Indian bark-work, vimu^ir. biscuits, sugar, tallow, soaj>, candles, ale, bcor, liJir, whisky, and other spirits : 415,327 dollars. Ships ruilt at Quebec, 988,428 dollars. These articles by no means show the wliolo "f the productions and manufactures of Canada. Tli"^ AGRICULTUEAL PRODUCTIONS. 129 jjreator portion of the articles for domestic use, and ajricuuiiral instruments, are manufactured in the wuntry — stoves, kitchen utensils, furniture, leather, aad other articles may be named. Statistics are ugly looking things on paper, and vtt they show the cajiabilities of a country in a iloar mattor-of-fact way, satisfactory to the intending >ittler. We therefore give the estimated produce of the harvest of 1862 in Upper Canada, ol)serving that it is considerably lower than the actual produce of tli(3 two preceding years. Wo also give the average number of bushels per acre, and number of acres under cultivation :- - Crop. No. of acres. Bushels per acre. Produce. Fall wlieut ... 456,465 16 7,303,4-10 ' Ppiinij wheat 99!t,21S 13 12,9S9,S34 1 lUrkj 124,S«7 20 2,197,740 ' \i^<' . . ... i*. 73,.S04 13 HfiO,622 Fcas . * •«• ... 4S;i,623 16 7,737,968 , 0«ts 712,2.53 2>\ 16,OJ5,692 ! Buckwheat... *■ >.* •.« 7s,293 16 1,252,638 I'liiirtii torn 83,913 25 2,()<,t7,825 Potatoes , 111,129 100 14,412,9(K) , Turnips •* ••• ■■• 77,079 2.50 l"<,2'iS,750 Canots (),(it;9 300 2,O(H»,7O0 Miingel-wurzel . * *•• ... l,n99 300 499,700 Beans 2,579 16 41,261 1 Clover and grass seeds, 67,999 bushels altogether. HaT.!iO(,in> hun- dred acres are given to eacli actual settler. T1:;mu!.. ditions of locaticm are, that tlie settlor he (jighton years of age ; that he take possession of tlie lanl allotted to him within six months; that he lnuii a log-house, 16 feet by 20 ; that he reside on tht lot, and clear and cultivate ten acres of land in tl" course of four years.* lie has also to keep in oidr the piece of road which passes close to his sci tiuii To obtain the free grant ho has simply to ni;i!. application to the local crown land agent, wliow!.. furnish him with full information as to mIiuI laii'l- are to be granted, or are open for sale. ( >a lunflin: in the province the Government emigration agtii;> will direct him how to proceed. On taking a section of wild land the settlor fiinl^ everything to do, and shoidd have several si'.mi;;:' months before him. The cost of clearing w'lUl larj^ is from 12 to 14 dollars per acre, but this the scttld should do, as far as possible, by his own labuiu' Meniliers of tho same f.iiiiilj' havinp; land may, howpvor, rr=!.]p tojettier on one ot their lots, thereby exempting them from building a resuieucec- each location. SALE OF CUOWN LAXDS. 133 Tit) only cliargo on land is a tax, whicli Kcldom fvcods 1(1. per aero, and is applied to loeal iniprovo- L>utH alone, in wliidi tho Huttler has a dii'cet interest. I, tiiko a free f^nint lot, a settler, with a wife and time or four younj^ children, should have from I' 10 ;,j i'.)0, which will bo sullicient to support theni f,r eighteen months, Iniild a hnt, and stock tho farm. Ik'sitles making free grants, the Government lias lands on salo in the moro desirable localities, vary- ir.i,' from 20 cents, or lOd. sterling, to one dollar, or \i. 2(1., i)or acre. The sales are made eitli(!r for ia.»li, or on time, when a higher price is charged. Measures have been taken to jtrevent land sj^ecu- laturs from purchasing blocks of land, and retailing them at a high price, or Ivceping them unsettled, to tho detriment of the more distant settlers out- sjili' tlicm, till by these means their value is raised. Crown lands in Upper Canada are sold for cash ;it 70 cents = 2s. lid. per acre, and when sold on timo, at one dollar = 4s. 2d. per acre: in that case onoiifih is to be paid at tho time of sale, and the re- muinini; four-fifths in four e(|ual annual instalments, with interest at six per cent, on the purchase-money unpaid. On the north shore of Lake Huron, and Fort William on Lake Superior, in the Nepigon, and otlier settlements, lands are s(jld on time at 20 cents per acre. All crown lands in tho newly surveyed territory are subject to settlement duties similar to those of free grants. Lands are also sold in blocks, varying from 40,000 to GO, 000 acres, at about 2s. in Upper, and lOd. in Lower Canada, on condition that the pui*chaser cause the block to be t M t| ^ » 1 1 ?^ S i f i- .1 I ! s 1 I : •i !l fj , 4' ( ^ It ' 134 BKITISII NORTH AMERICA. surveyed into lots of 100 to 200 acres each, acconlir.:' to a plan and in a manner approved of by Govern- ment, and that one-third of the block bo settled •within two years and a half from the time of sale, one- third more withm seven years, and the residue within ten years, unless the last portion is unfit for cultiva- tion. Settlers must have resided on their lots fortwj years continuously, and have cleared and cultivated ten acres of every 100 acres occupied by them, helor,. they can obtain absolute titles. All these rcg'ulatiijn?, it will be seen, are for the benefit of the honest, hard- working settler. However fertile land may be, without roads it is of little value, and a continuous line of settlements is necessary to keep open even winter roads. Hence the wisdom of the plan pursued by the Canadian Government is apparent. It is calculated that Canada can support a population of eighteen millions; as yet, however, it has only readied three millions. It is therefore very clearly the duty and interest of tlif Government to offer every encouragement to emigrants to come to the country, and, when they liavo arrived and settled, to treat them in tliat careful and liberal way which will induce them to persuade more of their countr3Tnen to come over. On this account, Govern- ment officers are appointed to receive emigrants on their arrival, to assist them in every way, to uive them all tlie information they require, and to forward them in the direction in which they wish to go. On tlio occa^3ion also of a body of emigrants going to sittlo together, an officer accompanies them, to assist tlum in selecting their land, and locating themselves, Emigrants are often suspicious, when they find tlicm- t MINERAL HESOURCES. 135 sekes tlni3 assisted, that the Government has some ulterior object, and that they may be bound down in gome objectionable way, and it is therefore most important that those who contemplate emigrating ehuuld have the real motive of the Government dearly explained to them. No part of the internal resources of Canada have been so little developed as her mines. Several valuable co|tper mines have of late years been discovered, and are now Morked in the eastern townships. Those of llaskett Hill, Belvidere, and Black E-iver, in the townships of Acton and Ascot, are best known. But it is to the northern shores of Lakes Huron and ."Superior that exj)lorers and capitalists are turning their eyes, where the Bruce and other mines have iilreaily been for some time worked. On the shore of Thunder Bay a now copper mine has lately been opened, and is being successfully worked. The Government offers the most advantageous terms to cajiitalists willing to explore and work mines. A foe formerly charged is abolished ; mining tracts of not more than 400 acres are sold at a dollar an acre, and a royalty of 2 J per cent, only is charged uu the value of the ore prepared for market. Iron, • opjier, zinc, lead, nickel, silver, and gold, are found. Nunieruus non-metallic minerals are plentiful — mag- nesiii, lithographic stone, gy])sum, sandstone, mill- stone, p;rindstone, and whetstone. Building materials of all kinds are abundant — beautiful marbles, granite, sandstones, slates, clays, and flag-( .ones. So, too, are C(jmbustibles — peat, asphaltum, and petroleum, or rock oil, of which during the last few years nume- if! !i ti :♦ \ .*k^ ' I 'Ml I !. ! i t .1 i' I- 1 * r r I! rf ■ • ^i'l ft *' ' ■ I* ol >> it .' ■! )■ ■i*aHM;M fi ■fc iilil ♦l '* -51 It; r. I. iUi 136 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. roua springs have been discovered, from which lar('e quantities of oil have been taken. The fisheries of Canada are very valual)h\ Lower Canada possesses on the Eiver and Gulf of 8t. Law- rence an extent of coast of 1,000 miles, -vvlioro the cod, herring, mackerel, salmon, and other li,shorio>, are carried on. Whale iishing is carried (jii by ves- sels fitted out at the port of Gaspc. An avoray;o season for whale oil has i^roduced about li7,(iiiii dollars. The future settler may desire to learn soiuclhinf^'if the fish he is likely to catch for his own f(jo(l. The>' are, in the first place, whitelish, salmon, trout, and herrings, in Lakes Huron, Ontario, and Superior; indeed, it may be said that they are found in all the larger lakes. The herring is likewise found iu sonio of the smaller lakes. Then there is the supcih sturgeon (but that is more rare) ; the niaslviii(ni<:t', pike, pickerel, sucker (white and black), black has*. rock bass, sunfish, perch, and several smallor kinds of fish swarm in all the smaller lakes and rivers. Tho salmon from the ocean ascends to tho head of Lake Ontario, 1,200 miles from the Atlantic, ])ut even he cannot leap the Falls of Niagara. It is acjuostiim whether the salmon would not live entirely in Huron and Superior if once transported to those Avaters, or if facilities were given them to ascend the canals. Of all the fish, the whitefish ranks Ih-.'^t ; th^ herring, too, is excellent ; large quantities aiT .sahed for exportation. They are caught with the usual seine and drag-nets, and by the Indians with spears and also with scoop-nets. The Indian goes out at FARM STOCK. 137 cirrht in liis canoe, with a liglit in the bow, and the lish, attracted by the light, comes to the hurface : till' Indian's sharji eye detects the lish, and the barbed sntar is fixed in a moment in its body. The scoop- net is used by the Indians on the rapids, especially those of St. Mary, in the pools of which the whitofish nsts on his upward course. One Indian sits in the ^tern, steering the canoe, and keeping it over the pool; an, and a fir-' is liglited in the centre, near a hole wliioh is cu: through tlio ice into tlie water. The fish, attrartfj by the liglit, como to tlie hole, and eagerly swallow- ing the bait let down to them, are forthwith traii>- ferred to the frying-pan. Often a merry lishinj^'-partv will spend many of the early houi's of the ni^ht, lit^'ij. less of the bitter cold to be experienced outside. Skating is a general amusement, but as the snow quickly spoils the ice on the lakes, places umLr cover liave been formed, of late years, in the chift cities, where persons may enjoy the exertise, indepen- dent of the weatlier, as long as the frost continues Even sailing in mid-winter is accomidished. A huat, fully rigged, is placed on runners, and jn'ovided with a Lmg oar witli a heavy ircm blade, whidi can tut into the ice. This serves the purjiose of a rudder. The wind acts on the sails, and sends the boat alun;' as thougli it were in the water; she car thus siil very close to the wind, and is put about and steered 1 y the rudder. The ice, however, must bo tolerably fiv.' from snow to allow of a boat sailing well. Snow-slujeing, or walking in snoAV-shocs, isanotlur very common amusement, both of ladies and gentle- men. Some practice is required before a per;?un can walk witli ease. The snow-shoe is an o]>l<>iiir frame about three feet in length, with net-wurk in th-:' riaijes are i «il WDTTER TRAVELLiyO. 145 rrntre. This is strapped to the foot, niifl, from its dde surface, prevents it from sinking into the snow ; while, from its liglitnoss, it is easily lifted. After 1 ting exposed to the rays of the sun for a few days, tlie siirliico of the snow liardens ; and travellers fin make their way without impediment across (ountry, over liodges, walls, ditches, and streams, I wliidi would 1)0 otherwise impassable. ]ioth whites and Indians make long journeys on snow-shoes. Even Kn;:lisli ladies learn to walk with ease and pleasure, ami often go considerable distances. Social meetings ■f all sorts take place in winter, in consequence of tiio gi'cator leisure enjoyed at that season, and from the facilities allbrdod for moving about. Closed car- riages are seldom used, though the common sleighs iM'dfor journeys have roofs with curtains. On the railways, the American style of carriage, or car, is .'I nenilly used. They allow of passing from one end :i» the other, and are warmed by stoves, with pipes running round them. Snow is the great opponent of railway travelling in Canada, but it is found that a belt of forest on either side of the line prevents it from accumulating ; and it is to be hojjed that when now lines are constructed, trees will be left ailing the line, or planted whert^ they do not exist. Tlioso who dread a Canadian winter, have only to n meniljor what tin* oiUcers and men in the Arctic '^xIl("Iition wont through year after year without suf- Itring, and they will learn to laugh at their former fears regarding the severities of Canadian cold. Per- >'>m in the enjoyment of health, youth, and spirits, Will find it a most enjoyable season ; while the in- iliistrious luboiu'er and mechanic have the means of n if li' I ' ihI' i'i \ ■ 1 t ' 1 'if ' 1 "^ 146 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. keeping out the cold more ofTectually than tliry gene- rally have in the old country. There are considerable differences hotwocn tho inhabitants of the Ui)per and Lower rioviiice in character and mode of living. This is only to Lm expected from the fact that they belong to suili different races. In tlie Lower Province the French elemoiit, as v;(t have seen, largely preponderates. But the iiilialpitantj belong to a bygone generation of the Frc'n( h jn'oiile. They retain much of the character ■which pvivailtil in France before the changes wrought by the frreat Revolution. As a rule the peasantry are kind, honest, courteous, and simple in their habits. Tlitv are, however, very ignorant, and thus bcdimo an easy prey to priests and demagogues. Thev aro frugal rather than industrious. Their farming is poor and slovenly, though in this respect thoy are improving. Their houses are generally log hut.-? raised on platforms of stone or earth, and usually have one large common room, with a liugo stove in the centre; the bedrooms are small, and arc arranged round the centre saloon. Persons in better i Inum- stances often have broad verandahs running round their houses, which, when gaily painted, with a pro- fusion of flowers in front, gives the habitations a neat, pleasant ap2)ear{uice. In oach village a number of little erections are seen, one between every live or six houses, sometimes standing on four pillars, and sometimes on platforms, something like boo-hivos in shape, with high-pitched roofs over them. These are ovens, and are shared by five or six proprietors. ■^■w TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 147 Xlio villagos have a Swiss look, with tholi* lii^h- 'itihod roofs, projecting eaves, hright-colourod vo- ninilalis, and cliurchoa of odd architetturo and tall lincoven-d 8i)iroa. At tlie corners, too, may be aeon jurines like dolls' housea, or pedestals with figures ill them, of the Virgin Mary, adorned with silk robes ,:.il a tin.-^el crown; and at others, large black crosses jiirrounded by palisades. The fences, too, surround- iripT tlio houses are neatly carved and painted, as are numy enclosing the fields; indeed, in the older settle- Lituts, nut a snake fence is to be seen. The villagos ii ivo generally a settled, old-fashioned look, very un- like tlie push-a-head, make-shift appearance of most (if those in the west — where, tliough the towns are « iperior, the villages have a less settled look, and, as the climate is milder, the houses are not so sub- stantial. Not only are the church spires of tin, but :lie roofs of many houses in Montreal, Quebec, and nthor towns and villages, are covered with it, which .Ives tliem, at a distance, a very un-English look. In the Upper Province, from the largest town to tlio smallest, everything is in transition, and gives s^^ns of rapid progress. The habitations are of every possible style of architecture — plank, log, ilab and wattle, brick, and cla}'. Snake fences forn/ the usual division between the fields, and stump., waiting for the decay of their roots are observed in every direction. Plank pavements, or rather side- walks, are still to bo found in the towns. I'lank and eorduroy roads are more common than those f(jrmed attoriling to the system of Macadam. The telegraph- wire is found traversing the pathless forest, and often stives to guide the horseman out of its mazes. The I 1 J .4' • — -.**^< --r-- i ! 1 11 i n II i h I !i I iij'i i \ i 1 I ; 148 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. railroad, too, is met with when the traveller fain it- himself away from tlie neighbourhood of all si^rnx,! civilization ; and he is reminded that though in iL..' Now World, it is one which is rapidly assimilatin;: itself to the Old, and that ere many years, or |ierha|ii months, liave passed away, the ground on wliioh h' stands may become the site of a populous villa;i(' or of corn-producing fields. In the cities, tlu; iirivat-' residences are generally substantially built of Itrid-, and there are numerous public edilices of lint' hewn stone, of a good stylo of architecture. In tlie Lower I'roviuce the private houses are com- monly warmed by one large stove, with iron hot-air pipes communicating with all tlio rooms. This leaves tho temperature of the dwelling too much at tlie mercy of the cook, and may be regulated rather liy her temper than by the feelings of the imuatt s. In Upper Canada, though stoves are also ustd, uptn grates are much more common ; giving better veiiti- lation, and aUowing tho inmates that true satisfactiuii to an Englishman of poking the tire. With regard to the expcnises of living in the two provinces, they vary but little, tliinigh th(\v avr jicr- ha2)s slightly greater in tho ITpper than the L(»\\rr. In the cities they are altogether not much los than they wouhl be in Enghmd for a family niixin;^- in society. In the country districts, on the other hainl, a family may, in tlie vicinity of a village nr snuill town, live with comfort and respectability at a very much less cost than in England, provided liixurii'S are banished. To do tliis they must farm as muih land as will supply them with provisi».ns ; iheir sugar should bo produced, from their uwu sii;^';a- FARM PRODUCTIONS. 149 bush (maple trees) ; tobacco may be of home growth ; tlieir clothes and linen made from their home-spun wool and flax ; soap and candles may bo made at liime ; Miiile the neighbouring streams and lakes will supply an abundance of fish. The woods will sup[)ly fuel. Abundance of game may be constantly had fur the trouble of sliooting it. House rent in the towns is high, but in the country a comfortable abode (in bo erected at slight cost, or rented cheaply, and thus a family with one or two hundred a year of iiuunie, over and above tlie produce of the farm, may live with a comfort utterly unattainable in England, iiud enjoy the society of neighbours circumstanced liko thonisolves and living in the same style. Although young men who have no profession or kuuwledgo of farming are strongly advised not to emi;:;rHto in the hope of obtaining situations, the sons of settlers brought up in the country will find uuiny more openings for employment suited to their tastes than in England, wliile farming is certain to ylold ani[»lo remuneration for generations to come. Eiliaattd engineers especially will find abuiulant mupation on the nuniberlesH pulJic works re(|uircd fur the development of the resources of the country. A\'lul^t Canada affords gi'eat advantages and in- hiconicnts to the more educated classes of society, it .- to the small farmer or the hardy labouring man that its attractions are greatest. Land can l»o pur- tha.sed at a very small cost or rented at a low rate, I itlirr wild or partly cleared, while he will not fail to iihtain gijod wages on landing if he seeks for emph^y- latiit in the proper direction. For this purpose ''jVLTimicnt officers are stationed at each port to 11 J • ^T ■l! Ill i i H li ,■ i i .'I ; I 1 h'^) 150 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. direct him where to go. If he lands without monf v, in two years he may save enough, besides havin.- gained some valuable experience, to take up a grant of a hundred acres, which he can obtain along oue of the great colonization roads, together witli a small capital with w^hich he may lay in provisions to last him till liis crops come romid ; ho may luil 1 his hut, got the necessary furniture and cookin,' utensils, tools, and farming implements, and a cow. Pigs and poultry he can add after his crops art gathered. He will thus be able gradually to a- cumulate around him many conveniences and c(jiii- forts. And before long he will be able to secure tht- title-deeds of a freehold farm, which becomes Lis auJ his heirs for ever. " I have never known," said a clergyman, lon^' resident in Canada, to the author, " an industriuiiN sober man fail of success in any part of the countn . I have, of course, seen the strong man stricken down by disease or accident, and children by tlio death ul u parent deprived of their support ; but i>overty, d anything like poverty, except as the evident result ol pn^Uigacy or idleness, I have not met in the whulf course of my experience." CHAPTER VIII. BRITISn CENTRAL NORTH AMERICA. Boundaries-Extent— Physical geography— The Fertile Iielt— Early settlers —Various approaches — Water communications. In an account of British North America, Canada claims, and has received, the first place, on account of its size and importance. Instead of turning east- ward, and giving an account of the long- established and woll-known settlements on this side of the continent, let us travel westward to that vast territory extending from Canada to the Rocky Mountains, prui)eily called British Central North America, and comnutuly spoken of in Canada as the North-west ToiTitory, hut known in England as Rupert's Land and tho Hudson's Bay Company's possessions. Tlif boundaries of this magnificent, but little- kn(n\n territory, are clearly defined on three sides — tliat is to say, on the south, east, and west. On the north-oust the exact boundary is disputed. It may lio iland, but a little to the south of 4'J^, uuiy com- pare favourably with that of New York, which is in latitude 4 P. The territory of British Central North Amer'c^. may be said to measure about 1,200 miles from east to Most, and 400 miles fi-om north to south. Jk^'^ fagtf ^ilifcf-— *^ . ^ ' "^ 154 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. li u.i \\\ I ML £ 1 1 ■fiii^ i' \f: i ■'. r hi ji i I I ? ■} 1 I ! 1 f ^' i I From about its centre the land begins to slow upwards towards the west, till it gains an olevatidu of 2,000 feet above the sea, where, at it.s wesiern extremity, the Rocky Mountains form an iilmipt termination to this long-continued ascent. Alth(ni:;li some of the passes are easy, and of slight «'levati(m, the general range is lofty, with rugged and precipitous peaks in many places. But the eastern sido is ( om- posed of gradual slopes, thickly covered with timlior of magniticent growth, amid which numerous strecOins rush down, soon forming rivers navigable for tanues and timber-rafts. On the western or British Colum- bian side, the descent is more abrupt, and the trees not of so fine a growth. There are several pecidiar features in tliis vast territory. One of the most remarkable is, tluit the streams from south-east and west flow towards the centre, which, although the most fertile portion, is thinly wooded ; whereas on both the east and west are dense forests, the treses from which can bo broii^'lit down by tlio streams to the parts where they are most re([uired for building and other purposes. In the region to the north-west of Lake .SuprTinr are three sheets of water, united by rivers, or rather straits, viz., Lakes Winnipeg, Winnipegosis, and Manitobah, having together an area of l.'5,0()0 S(|uaro miles, being twice the size of Lake Ontario, or nearly half as much of the earth's surface as is occupied by Ireland. Some small lakes joined to tiiern are embraced in this calculation. They occuiiy the lowest depression of the great central basin of British North America, and yet are 628 feet above the level of the sea. FERTILE DISTRICTS. 155 This great central basin, or valley, is drained by three larj^o rivers : the Saskatchewan, rising in the Koeky ^fountains, £rc n the west ; the Winnipeg, rising in the height of land above Dog Lake, from the east; and the Red River, rising in the State of Minnesota, from the south. South-east of Lake Winnip(^g, and communicating with it by the River Wininp«'g, will bo found the beautiful Lake of the Wouds. From near the western shore of the Lak<^ of the Woods commences the most remarkable feature of the ten*itory — a belt of very fertile arable laud (partly a rich open prairie country, partly covered with groves of aspen and other trees), known astlie Fertile Belt, which, averaging from 80 to 100 miles in width, stretches for 800 miles to the very f lot of the Eocky Mountains. The area of this ex- traordinary belt of rich soil and pasturage is about forty millions of acres. Including adjacent fertile districts, the area may be estimated at not less than S0,()()0 square miles, or considerably more fertile land tliun the whole of Canada is supposed to contain. The Nortli Saskatchewan, rising in the Eocky ^[ountains, near Howe's Pass (while the south Lranc h rises near the Vermilion Pass), flows through the Fertile Belt, in a valley varying from one-fourth of a mile to a mile in breadth, and excavated to the ilililh of 200 to 300 feet below the level of the prairie or plains, till it reaches the low countr}' some miles east of Fort a la Corno. While the northern part of the territory is watered by the North Saskatchewan flowing from west to east, the southern part has a Hno of water communication in the south branch of the Saskatchewan (into which flows the Calling \i \ I 'I .il^ li m t " Ill • lii '; ifi • f > i»u .•i 1 1 (I r ii loG BIIITISU NORTH AMERICA. Eiver) and a cliain of long deep lakes, wliirli y;-^^ the Assinniboine, that stream falling into tlie ll-i Hiver. Numerous tributary streams, passing (..rcotlv across the Fertile Belt, fall into the Assinniloin,., many of tliem navigable for boats, all alM)un(li,;, with lish, aifording water power for mills an! machinery, and aiding in fertilizing the ground. The portion of the territory east of the Lake of the Woods is very ditf'eront to tliat wliich lias befu described. It is full of lakes united by rivers aiul exceedingly rapid streams, descending from th" height of land forming the Canadian border, wliiih is about 100 miles from Lake Superior, anng Lake and Iviver, over the high lands, ami d"\vii into the Lac des Milles Lacs; thence aloiiL;- the Hiver Seine, into Hainy Lake, from it along Jiainy Eiver, into the Lake of the AVoods. That lake communicates, by the Eiver AVinnipeg, with Lake Winnipeg ; and as the Eed Eiver falls into tlu.' latter 'ake, the passage, though roundabout, is easy. A far shorter road, however, is that fi'oui Lake RED RmiR SETTLEMENT. 1.37 Plat, tho north-western point of the Lake of the W(H((ls, to tlie Rod Eiver by hmd, the whole dis- tance being about 500 miles. Tliis will bo the first j.jrtitin of the Groat Tliuhway opened up across .btrica, and probably about 400 luilos of this part of it will be fouTid to bo by far the most dilhcult part of tlio undertaking. Supposiuf^, then, tho traveller were to arrive at F'.rt William at the mouth of tlie Kaministiquia — wLidi can be done with the greatest ease, as there is a wetkly steam communication with Toronto, t;i Colliiigwood — ho would, as numbers are con- itar.tly doing, proceed along a veiy interesting and rjuiantic route, partly by canoes, and partly on :.»rseba( k, to the lied River or Selkirk settlement, wiitre IS collected a conmiunity of some 0,000 or '.iiijo British subjects, with a Protestant bishop and ! rj:v, lioman Catholic bishop and priests, and a ' iiief iiutor of the Hudson's Bay Company, styled by them tho governor, with one or more olHcors under !;im. This settlement is nearly the centre of British America, midway between the Atlantic and I'acific "leans, with no impracticable barriers to bar ap- iiruach, but with gi-eat natural facilities for transport .'iross the magnitioent territory in which it is placed. Irluis tlio fertile and Ilourishing Province of Canada uu ono side, and that of Briti^-h Culumltia, witli its exhau-tloss gold fields, on the other, and forms the ^ "ut liii;li\vay between them, with no extraordinary oitticultios to bo surmounted, Avliilst from its fertility it is capable of supporting tho population necessary to kcM|) the way o^ten. This territory presents itself to US mulcr three important aspects : as the future home \m 'f n" ■ '1 i M i • ' " t ' lli .1 1 1^4 { . f'M r'lS i 4 158 BRITISU NORTH AMERICA. of thousands of English people ; as a grout lii^'V way from England to China, and the nuiul.orlf.sg islands of the Pacific ; and as the link with vlii(]i in ono unbroken chain, all the British provinit-s of North America may be united so as to funn one great community, with free laws and institutions. We will first consider it as a Crown colony about to be settled. The richness of the valleys of the Mississippi anl St. Lawrence are well known, but few suppos,,! tliat there existed, in British territory, anotlior valliy capable of rivalling them in the value of its produc- tions : yet such is the case, and that valley is the long unknown valley of the Saskatchewan, which forms so large a part of the Fertile Belt, already spoken of. This Fertile Belt is in a scuiicirciilar form, leading considerably north from tlio lied River to the north branch of the Saskatchow an, and then trending south, skirting the base of tho Piockv Mountains. Rich as is the valley of the iNli^sissipjij, we have abundant proof that this Fertile B(dt, f(jr all agricultural and pastoral purposes, is not inferior to it, and as a home for people of the Britisli race, is immeasurably superior to its southern rival. Le- fore we dwell on its characteristics, its capabilities, its beauties, and its immense importance, wo must give a sketch of the Red River, and the small British settlements on it, as they at present exist, tliat wo may thence take a more complete view of the territory round us. The Rod River itself is no insignificant strcnim. It rises in Ottertail Lake, in the State of Minnesota, and first taking a westerly and then a northerly AS8INNIB0IA. lo9 iirwtion, runs, in an exceedingly tortuous course, l,,r 525 miles, chiefly tlirough fertile prairie country, before it reaches the international boundary lino at ti,.' villago and post of Pembina. Hence it runs for about U<* miles through British territory before it I'lIIs into Lake Winnipeg. The largest river flowing into it is the Assinniboino, on the west, about 2.'J miles distant from its mouth. At the contluenco J tlieso two streams stands Fort Garry, long the tliitt' post of the Hudson's Bay Company and the risiJyuce of their chief factor. A district measured by a radius of 50 miles round Fort Garry is named .Wuniboiu, and over this district the chief factor Las acted as governor, and, with a legal ofiicer under him styled the "recorder," has taken cognizance of all olTeuccs. The rest of tlie territory has been with- out even the semblance of legal authority, excejjt suih as the factors at the Company's posts have been able to maintain by their personal influence. The physical features of the lied Eiver, after it enters British territory, will bo best understood if we imagine a stream from 200 to 300 feet wide, wliicli has forced for itself a channel from 30 to 4') feet deep in tenacious clay, through a nearly level country. On the edge of the clifis thus formed, (ommoiuing at the distance of three or four miles lium Lake Winnipeg, and extending on either side of tlie river about 13 miles south of Fort Garry, dhU also along the banks of the Assinniboino, the sittlers' huuses and cottages, with churches, schools, >tores, barns, and windmills, are seen scattered at ^liurt distances from each other. There is no town, nor even what can be called a village, at this Eed i i M r ■I V ; , 1 t. , 1 r ( t ' 100 VUITISII NOUTH AMKUICA. Rivor or Sollvirk sottlomont. No buildiir:;-; diixt.r rimiid tlio fort, lor tlio |>rot«Mtioii it mi;^lit all'uiil has novor l)t'oii soui^ht or ('X[)o«t«Hl from it. liven nmnil tho chunlios — with \\w v\vo\)\um of the iiirsoiuy'c, tho Hcliool-liouso, jind tlin teacher's jilxxh^ — tlu'liDu^s do not appear to lie more thickly plaee(l. The ttria setthniieiit, iiidecul, {^ives a i;oo(l i(h>a of th ■ iikkIc iu ■\vliicli tho iuhabitantH are located. The di^triit is divided into parishes, eacli uith a water tr()iita-i', and <:;enerall3' containing a chnrch, Hchool-h-tuscj ;iii,l parsona{2:o. Tho most imposinjj; stnutiire is the Ivonuin (^athoHe cathedral, with its tin-tdvtred sjiiros glittering in the mux. FortCrarry in a rei^uiariy I'orti- liod post, with strenu^th snilicient to withstMiul aiiv attack which tho Indians could niako ajj^aiii.st it; hut sineo its erection it has never l)e(>n assailed. < »ii t!..' east side of tho rivor tho country is nndulatinir, and at a short distance rnnninp;' parallel with it is a lino of hills clothed with trees. A toleraldy thick hijt df trees frinsj^os the banks of th«^ river in several plait's, much iniproviuj^ tho sceiu^ry. ( )n tho wost tlic praiiif stretches away to an immense distanc«\ This district was e.stablishod in iHl'J by Lorl Selkirk, with Scotch enn'<::rants in the tir->t \>\at Ctjiu- pany's fur-traders, otliers bcinu^ drivini otf tlie i:Tnunii and compollcHl to winter in skin tt3nts, till at h-n'.'th tho rival companies were amalgamated, and the settlers and their territory were transferred by Lord J \. ClIttlSTIAN INDIANS. ICl Selkirk's lif'ira to tho now (((rporation — lionroforth tnitlin^,' iiiultT tlio immo of tho HiuIsou'h l>jiy (.'om- 1,111V. Tho O.OOO or 7,001) inhaljitants of tlio S(jlkirk ,,;tlt'nn'iit may l»o dividod into Hottlci'H from Kuropo and Caiiiula, rotirod ollicors and luoii of tlio Hudson's l!av ('"nipany (many of wlioiii, howovtT, liavo Indian wive.H sitid familios), nutivo-born wliitos, and half- bni'ls— til most niimorons of all — a portion of whom, tluMiii^h C'liristians in namo and jtrofossing t,j 1)0 civili/od, liavo rohipHod into tho Havaj^o Htate of tho triln's from whioli tlu^y spran;^. Tho greater part of tho half-hrood population spond tho siimmor ill hunt iniJC tho hulhdo, an ox(itin;jf occupation, whioli unfits them i'or tho nioro roji^ular aiul important occu- patiim of a>,aiculturo. Nearer tho mouth of tho rivor theift is a largo villnp^o of Cliristian Indians, with a mis>i()iiary, an ordained clorfjjyman, su[»orintonding thi'iii. Ahout tliirty miles to tho w»>st of tho lattcT, at I'niirio l'urta<;o, thoro is another llourisliin*; settle- ment of Christian Indians, brouj^ht to<;othe'r ]>y the JevuttMl /cal and porseveranco of tho missionary iltr^'vnKui jilaced over them. Tho missionary pro- iiM'iiiujg^s in tho territory demand, however, a separate iiiitice. Let us suppose ourselves standinjj^ in tho centre of this luiij; isolated settlem<'nt, soon to become the nucleus of a vast eohmy, the chief ])ost on one of the L'reat liii^^hways of nations, and take a survey of the t'-rritory round us. Turning to tho south, we see tile lltn\ ] liver flowing towanls us with manv wind- iiiirs through a rich and level ])rnirio. N joined to tliem, and still more numerous stn-amsfiill. ing into them and iUiwing out of tlieiii nortlnviml To the east is a country, partly wijoded and sdiiit- what imdulating, watered by several Rtnaiiis, anil extending for 90 miles or more to the Lako of tlir Woods. To the west we gaze over a ridi, greei. prairie. Our horizon, where it joins ^vith tlie sky, is not 20 miles off, and we Iiave a difficulty in comjire- hending the fact that the i)rairio extends luv .son miles beyond our ken to the very foot of the TJody Mountains, not all equally rich, perhaps, but all lit for the habitation of civilized man. Through this rich prairie How two rivia's, \h; Saskatchewan, already described, and tin- As.>iii- niboine, up the course of which we can look ami remark numerous flourishing farms on ciiiicr sid.v It rises in the very centre of the richest juirt of the territory, and circles round to the south and (';i>t, with numerous streams running into it. It has a branch running west and east, aiul almost uniiiti^' with the South Saskatchewan. There are two otlur rivers of some si/e, the Swan Ivi\er and tin.' lud iJeer lliver, whit h both run into Lake WinnipL'gn>is. There are also numerous other rivers and strcaius some navigable for steamerfj, others on\v lor lioats and canoes ; and innum(n*able lakes of various sizis, all abounding with exceUent ash. A remarkable circumstance conno(;ted witli tlio Fer- tile Belt is, that on the south oi it commcuccs an aiiJ, !i THE FEllTILE BELT. 1G3 niiiless (losort, oxtending for many luindrod miles into the Uniteil .States, making a vast district utterly unlit for coloni/ation, and through Avliicli conso- r:;.iitly it would 1)0 almost impossible to form a raiiuay, or to support one if f )rm(>d. To the north of the Fertile ]5elt is ador.sr-ly \rooded f' .'ion, amid whose wilds the roaming sava'^^'e can alone liii'l bU})i»ort. There are, however, a few fertile dis-: tr;i ts outside the belt, on the banks of the rivers and stwims, and on somo hills to the south. Though tcniK'il [>nurie-land, the Fort'lo ]>elt is not level. Till' nuiuorous streams which cross it cause consider- alile inoipialities. To the west of Lakes Winnijiegosis ami Mrtuitobah tliere is a chain of throe long moun- tains, known as Hiding, Duck, and Porcupine moun- tains, ^\hich are all well timbered. Tliese three 2.iiuutuins, with Lake IManitobah, and the North Saskatchewan, bound the Fertile IJelt on the north ; while the loAver portion of the Assinniboine and the (.'ailing rivers, witli the Touchwood ranges of hills hitervening, form its boundary on tlie south. The Toiklnvoud Hills are thickly covered with trees, as are the banks of all the streams. It is supposed that tliis Fertile lielt was once covered with a dense forest, whiih, during the heat of summer, was so completely destroyed by fu'e that the trees never again sprang up, leaving the roots to decay. Hence the peculiar niTiiiesH of the soil. There arc no serious impedi- ments to the ]»assage of a waggon from one end of tho belt to the other. Still it cannot but be ad- liiitted, "that very incorrect ideas have been formed ivspeeting the litness of the Fertile licit for ilie lUiinediatu construction of a railway, as merely iu- !l ^1 it 164 ^itlTISII NORTH A^klERICA. f^'fti I ' volving the laying down of rails and tin- In-iJ-in- of rivers. The really level prairies rease al't^r })a,ssin.' eastward of the Frairie Portage, on the Assiiuiihoin,. GO niiles from Fort Garry. Tlio country tliwi he- comes undulating, and is often intersoctcd by dtci gullies and ravines, forming tlie narrow valleys aliii; wliich rivers and brooks IU)w at 100 In ;;0() i;.,.t below the prairie level." These iiliysical ihu- liarities add very mucli to the beauty Hn(l iiittr-«! of the scenery, and oiler but slight iuiptMlimcnts \„ ordinary travelling, as carts and horses can (k'Soii'l the ravines wi'.hout any diliiculty, but they of lourN will make tlu) expense of constructing a raihvav greater than were the prairie continuous. Even ti tlio railway tliese streams will serve two vtrv in.- portant purposes— they will supply water aU'l \m!1 bring wood and other fuel up to the line. The following notes of a journ«'y west freni Firt Garry to the Focky Mountains, made by Trofosur Hind, will give u more perfect idea of tlu.- nuluiv lu the country than an ela])orate de.seri[)tioH. " Caui[) on the prairie, west side Fort Garry ; '.'•'h.i! pasturage. First day's journey : good trail thri>u.'L a fertile country and partially settled ; liiie [iruinis adapted for grazing and agriculture; climips il ])o[tlar ; li(>avy timber in the bays of the rivtr. 21 miles to Lane's Fost. Camp by a ])<)ol in thr shelter of a blutf of iH)plar ; good grass; heavy timber skirting the river ; 10 miles. Cross a Irvd jtraa;' with rich soil and herbage, but nearly destitute ul trees; good grazing; 10.\ miles to Fraiiie rorrago. a settlement with 200 inhabitants, chielly Christian Indians. Fine open treeless prairie; no mmaI. lOllT GARIIY TO ROCKY MOUNTAINS. IGo splemlitl pasturage; 10^ milos to Rut Eiver. Ypvv tine agricultural country, diversitied witli beautiful \ro(Mllanasturago; oak trees; 2.*J miles to north bulk of White Mud lliver. Fine country to tho Little Saskatchewan, at tho foot of tho Riding M'lUiitain ; river, 68 feet wide, .'] feet dee]>; oir- reiit, three and a ludf miles an hour. (August 28th.) Alt'T crossing tho Little Saskatchewan, the country i> thickly covered with willows and aspen ; excellent |iiistiu'aLro in tlie valley; scenery beautiful; 21 miles to the Little Saskatclunvan. Thence there is fine rullinrr country; ponds very numerous ; dutks in great alumdunce ; 2.) miles to next camping phioe. On tlicn across an open country with excellent pas- tiira^'e lor oO^ miles to Fort l^llico." Such is tlie style of country for 230 miles from the Kut Ikiver settlements, through wliich the Great Hi^^lnvay is destined to pass. It will hence trend rather more to the north, so as to keep within the Fertile IJelt, and to pass to tho north of tiio Tuucliwood Hills. From tliat point it will proceed due west, touching the elbow of tlio North Sas- katchewan, crossing Battle River, not far irom its :. ,! I <1 ? 1 i = j 1 * , 'f^ll u 1G6 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. soutliorn elbovN*, and advancing dircrtly fur t!.. Vermilion l*asH, to wliich all accounts poiiit us pr- eenting" tho fewest engineering- difficulties f^r earn-. ing over a railway, and as practicable for waass into Lake AVinnipcg through the Littlu Saskatchewan, thenco into Lake Manitobah, and from tlu'iice, i»y the Waterhen Kiver, into Lake Win- rjpcrjosis. Tho Ked, Deer, and Swan rivers, and iniiny ntluu's, navigable for boats, pass through the vd'v centre of the Fertile licit into the lakes, and a "[laucc at tlu^ map will show to what u largo extent of country access by water may at once bo L'ivcn. A great part of tho distance is navigable for steamers. Duubts have been expressed whether the North Saskatchewan can be navigated for its entire length ^ I .i f ) I t i » ■ If hi 1 108 BRITISn NORTH AMERICA. by steamors. Probably, such vcHsels as have boon built for the rivers of India, drawir.j^ but a lew indi.^ of water, would be found well adapted lo Htoiu tlje ra])ids, and would certainly be able to actoiujilish voyages of some hundred mil«3s in lenf^tli Mitlnnit interruption, even before any artilicial iikiuiih jiavt- been taken to improve the navigation. In iiddition to tho lines of water communication ahnidv d.s. cribed, there exist streams and lakes, wlii( h do in,; appear in ordinary maps, of a si/e suiliciciit inalfurd easy communication between villages, h;imlcts, and farms, whi(di may spring up in their UMighlMturiiool. It will thus ])0 seen that the greater p(»rtiun (ii this territory is encircled by lakes and rivers navi- gable for steamers, boats, or canoes. Tlio saim race who have in less than a quarter of a loiitiiiv converted the Australian province of Victoria finm a solitary desert into a colonj', the most llourishiii;' in the world, will not bo long before it linds means of making lull use of the advantages these muuln'r- less lakes and rivers alTord, and covering tlu' Tar- extending territory with prosperous, happy, auJ Christian communities. cnArxER IX. CLIMATE AND NATURAL rUODUCTIONS OF BRITISH CENTRAL NORTH AMERICA. Cumate— Fertility — Naturiil productions— Minerals and motaU— Flora and fauna— A f,'riculture— Illustrative incidents. ILwixo j^ivon a ronjj^li jj:e(), the dif- Im'iK'o in the seasons and temperature is sliglit. The wpstern or Saskatchewan end, however, enjoys the best chniate ; lor, altiioufi^h farther to the north and lariii'ire elevated, it is at a p'eater distance from the iliillini,^ inlhiences of Lake Winnipeg- and Hudson's Hay, jiiid enjoys the benelit of tlu^ south- we.sterly wind from tiio racific. The Ked liiver {Settlement is by far the coldest part of the whole basin of the ^\innij)cg. The climate grows rapidly warmer on tlio same parallels as we go westward, even when tlitTo is tin increase of elevation. The climate and ,l»i 170 BBITISn NORTH AMERICA. i ! ^ii ' soil, and ronscqiieTitly tho productions, aro miuli {]]<■ same tlirou;z;li()ut tho territory. Tho oxtromos of hoat and cold aro o\]>orioTifP(1, and tho clinnf^o is most sudden from the fsevoritios of winter to an almost tropical summer. T!i.^ summer temperature at Eod Uiver is snnicnliat higher than that of Toronto in U])per ('anuili, and that of tho winter falls helow it. The meun annual temperature of tho interior is lowtT, (u]\. sequently, than that of Canada, while that of tl western plains, in latitude o.'i^ n., notwitlistandin.' their elevation, nearly ecjuals Toronto, 8-' I'urtliir south. In ordinary years tho winter may ho said to sot in with N<)vem])er, and to last to the end of Mardi. Snow, howevrr, occasionally falls early in nctolirr and lasts till May. Mr. Lorin Blodg"(;t, the Aiiiorican climatoloij^ist, makinj? an oflicial report to liis own Government, states that *' Tho whole Saskatcliowan valley has a climate very nearly as mild in its annual average as that of 8t. Paul's, which would give it a winter mean of lo^, and an annual mean of 11. which represents tho diiiiato of Wisconsin, Xortliprn Iowa, ^Michigan, AVestorn Canada, North'Tii New- York, and ISouthern New England. J Jut thoiisli the winter of this region is a period of intense (oKl, during which the mercury makes the winter of ^Minnesota the season of animal and social eniovment. The builaloes winter in mvriads on tho nutritious grasses of the prairies up to a-^ high a latitude us Luke Athabasca. The hall'-bret'd; FERTILITY OF THE SOIL. 171 zH Indians camp out diiririf^ tho wholo winter with LI ght'ltor ]>iit a buH'alo-skin tont and abundanoo of biitl'alo-robos, and the horses t>t' tho settlers run a: largo all the winter and {^row fat on tho {jp'asses, whirh they pick wp in tho woods and bottoms." To those hoarint^ of tho intense cold of tho winter, and unacfpiainled with the climate and soil of North America, it may deem surprisin;^ that its productions shoiJd be so varied and attain to such perfection ; but, liapi^ily, vegetation depends much more on tho k'li'jth of summer and the intensity of heat, than on tho cold of winter, and thus throughout a con- -iJerahlo part of British North America, cereals and fruits which I'utirely fail in England, come to maturity. IiKlian corn, melons, grapes, tobacco, and other pro- ihietioiis of the earth, ripen to perfection in tho so- lallbHl Arctic region of the lied Eiver, while even in I)e\ (»nshire they would but seldom bo lit for use. Tho fac.'t is, that no sooner does tho snow melt, than the grass springs up, tho leaves and buds burst fortli, ;ind nature, by the wonderful ra[)idi ty of its progress, seems resolved to make am])lo amends for its long torpidity. Mr. lUodgot says, " IS[>ring oi)en9 at nearly tho same time from !St. Paul's to Lako Atliabasca ; April and ^Eay are tho natural sprin^^' months of tho whole climatic belt. The abruptness of the transition from winter to s[)riug in these northern latitudes is a wonderiul feature of tho climate. . . . This rich upward swell of tho spring temperature is prolonged through tho summer months of June, Jidy, and August, to include the amplest measures of heat for all agricultural purposes. Corn (Indian corn) thrives well at a H; i'j f \ ) r ! ; 1 1 M I 172 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. mean tcmporaturo of (55^ for tlie summer month's. reqiiiriiif^, howover, a July moan of 07 . AVluat rG(|uiroH a moan tcmporaturo of from (V2 t<. G.V, for tho two months of July and Au<^ust. These two groat roprosontativo staples of Americjin a;.Ti()ilturt^ carry with them tlio whole proeossion of ust I'ul iIom that eharaeterizo tho ncn'tliern belt of tho ttiiijHrii!" zone. Tlio mean temperature of Ked iJivtr li.r the tliroo summer months is 07' 70', noaily ilmfj degrees of lioat more than is necessary i'^r (urn (maize), while July has four degrees mon- of heat than is re(piired for its ])est development. Tin- ni k. ^ /a ^>. ^^. '/ //. Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 # ^N> V iV :\ \ K^ o^ 174 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. I ^ m 4 ^1 * humid. Yiolent storms occur, of rain and hall. tliunder mid lightning, occasionalh', as the seasiin advances, but they have tlieir beneficial as well as injurious effects, one counterbalancing tlio oiIkt. The harvest for hay, which, formed out of tlio iiatunj grasses, is in great abundance, commencts in tli,. beginning of July, and that for the cereals aljuur the 10th of August." From the above remarks, a fair idea niav ],(■ formed of the climate. Numerous other autlioritios agree that it if not inferior to that of tiie Gurdoii of Canada, which is as well suited to British con- stitutions, to the physical development of all tlif best qujdities of the Anglo-Saxon race, and to tlio bringing to perfection the most valuable prodiietiuns required for the use of man, as any portion of tlie globe. *'Tho soil," says Captain Palliser, *' is that of an ancient lake bottom, consisting of variously jnu- portioned mixtures of clay, loam, and marl, witli a remarkable deficiency of sand. It is overlaid l.'v a great thickness of vegetable mould, varying from two to four or five feet in depth. The cliief weahli of the agriculturist would be derived from rearing; cattle, large quantities of nutritious grasses abound- ing everywhere. Hemp, flax, and hops grow ad- mirably. The lun'thern portion of the Saskatcliewan district is well adapted for the rearing of cattle, al>u for the raising of sheep, if housed and fed during tlif winter and si)ring." "We may illustrate these statements by a reference to districts scattered from one end of the territory tj the other. The opiiiious expressed are not tlieo- ii- 'Vi\ rASTURAOE — COAL. I7i retical, but founded on actual expcrienco, and the nsult of personal observation. Near the very centre of the territory, at the head of the Assinniboine, is Fort Pelly. The pasture around is excellent, and the cattle raised there have produced beef of the finest quality. The Hudson's Bay Company have a considerable stock of cattle at tk'fort, and rear some fine horses, tlie bre(*ds having lievii iuiported direct from England. liound the various posts in this district there is abundance of timber for building and other purposes, consisting of spruce, pine, and poplar. Fort Edmonton is situated on the North Sas- katchewan, at what may be considered the most nortli-westerly point of the Fertile Belt. About fifty miles west of it is a Roman Catholic monastery, sur- rounded by a flourishing village of half-breeds and Indians. Dr. Hector, one of Captain PaUiser's party, spent the winter of 1858-59 at the fort, making ex- cursions in every direction round it. To the north, on tlie Athabasca iliver, he discovered coal of fair (juality cropping out in various places along the hanks. In describing the country to the south, as well as along the belt to the east and west, he says— " The most valuable feature of this belt of (uuntry, which also stretches from Touchwood Hills, Carlton, and Fort Pitt, south of Fort Edmonton, to the (dd Bow Fort at the foot of tlie Ptocdcy Moun- tains, is the immense extent it all'ords of what I tasturage consists of tracts of country partially wooded ^vith pophir and willow clumps, and bearing a most luxuriant growth of vetches and nutritious grasses. iu :ii ' "i ^\ t' , ? ' f. '■ ii' ■ IW I iJ»ft i >j a. — •^^tm ' I l'-^^ 1 1 iif I , ' i^ n I, ^ ill I VA 176 imiTISlI NORTH AMEKICA. The clumps of wood afford shelter to animals, whi'. the scrubby brushwood keeps tlie snow in sucli a loose state that they find no difficulty in pvocuriii'> food ; tho lar^e tracts of swampy coimtry wlicn frozfii also form admirable feeding- grounds, and it is onlv towards sj.rinj^ in very severe winters that lattle ainl horses cannot be left to feed in well-chosen localities through(nit this regi(m of tho country." Of natural productions, T)eside8 the abundaiKc of native grasses and vetches, there is a gr(>at varietv of trees fit for building purposes and fuel. Pro- fessor Hind observes, ** Tlie western and soutii- western slopes of the Riding and Duck inoiin- ta^..^ suppl}' heavy forests of white spruce, binli, aspen, and poplar. Tho trees often exceed ono ainl a half and two feet in diameter, with an available length of 30 to 50 feet. Tlie white spruce, the larjrest on the summit plateau of the liiding ^Mountain, gives that region a great economic value. The area ovor which these trees extend has a length of 120 miles and a width of oO miles. The numerous streams tlowiii;; into the Assinniboine, will bring this valuable tiinbor down to spots first likely to attract settlement. In the valley of the Assinniboine is a forest loO miks in length, and four in breadth, of oak, elm, a>li. maple, poplar, and aspen. Above Prairie i'orta;j;e there is another fine forest of aspen, oak, bircli. elm, and maple. All the valleys of the tributaries of the same river lyq well clothed Mitli timber, con- sisting chiefly of aspen and balsam poplar, but often varied with bottoms of oak, elm, as!i, and tho ash- leaved nuiple. On the Qu'appellc, or Calling liivir, good timber is found. Aspen forests cover tue 'II Vf ^ TIMBER — SALT SPRIXOS. 177 TouchMTOod Hill ranges, and other ranges in the neifrhbourhood." Thus with the abundance of timber which can be procured from the Eocky Mountains on one side, and from the Iiake of the Woods region on the other, there will bo no want of timber in the territory, and those places will lirst be settled to which it can be most easily brought. From the ash-leaved maple the natives manufacture large quantities of sugar. Thewliitc pruce (called pine in the country) is much used for building and boat timber, as it is light, easily worked, and of sutficient strength for ordinary I'urijDses. When oak is not to be procured, carts and ^h'ii^lis are manufactui'ed from the birch. For fuel, also, it must be remembered that an ample supply of peat or turf can be procured in every district, and this, dried in the hot sun of summer, forms excellent fuel M'hen wood becomes scarce — a contingency not likely to occur. Various berrier. are abundant throughout the terri- tory, viz., cranberry, sasketoom, Pembina currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and strawberries. Wild rice is plentifid in the region of Kainy Lake and many other localities ; to these may be added a root called the prairie turnip, not unlike the Jerusalem arti- choke. Salt springs exist on the borders of Lakes Mauitobuh and AV'^innipegosis ; they were visited by Professor Hind. The salt is of good quality ; con- siderable (quantities are manufactured, and it is gene- rally used at the Eed Eiver settleuients. The Pro- fessor remarks, '' Springs rich in brine are known to exist in upwards of twenty dillerent i)laces along a stretch of country extending fi'om the boundary lino N M' J '^ I t I r f V i ii i ' I i •i •%! i 1 1 i i f f ■« • I t. ^'^^Tr 178 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 'f ) }(■ ,f' iljt n' ^ i lii :r4 ii liin^i^i;. I I 3 lii i ii S 1 i II to the Saskatchewan. Not twenty miles from Fort Garry they are numerous, issuing from tho sides of hills in positions very favourable for solar evupuration in shallow basins, which might be excavated at a lower level than the spring, and salt extracted without the employment of artificial heat." Limestone, fit either for building or burning into lime, exists in large quantities both on the Eed Eiver and on the west side of Lake Winnipeg. Clays suitable for bricks occur in many places on the A.s- sinniboine, tho Saskatchewan, the Ked Deer limv, Battle Eiver, and elsewhere. There is always a pro- fusion of boulders of the unfossiliferous rocks tu bo found in the valleys and beds of streams, M'hich serve for building materials. A large part of the region drained by the north and south ^ ranches of the Saskatchewan is underhiitl by coal or lignite. On the North Saskatchewan coal occurs below Edmonton in workable seams. From hence it may bo conveyed by that river into Lake Winnii)eg, and thence throughout a large part of the territory. On the Brazeaus and lied Deer rivers, Dr. Hector discovered beds of great thiikness; one group of seams measured 20 feet, "of -which," he says, "12 feet consisted of pure compact coal." These coal-beds were traced for 10 miles on lied Deer Illver. At one point they were on lire (IBoH ; the bed exposed is a cliff of about 300 yards in length, being in many places in a dull glow, the constant sliding of tho bank continuing to supply a fresh surface to the atmosphere. "For miles round the air is loaded with a heavy sulphurous and Hmy smell, and the Indians say that, for as long as thev tr MINERAL PRODUCTIONS. 179 (an remember, the fire at this place has never been «t;nz'iislied summer or winter." It is not kno^vn Then or how the fire was kindled. Col. Lefroy observed lignite on Peace River, and Dr. H'Ttor discovered it in many other localities. Pro- :V.«(ir Hind observes, " The ease with which supplies HI be procured on the banks of navigable rivers gives alditional importance to wide areas of fertile soil, whiih, from the absence of timber for fuel, would otherwise lose much of their value as a region fit for settlement." The country is likewise rich in metallic ores. Sir LAn Piiehardson states that copper and malachite exist in the region of the Coppermine River, and |iu:ubago, iron, and mineral pitch are found, the Litter in great abundance, on the shores of Lake Athabasca to the north of the Saskatchewan. Speak- in;,' of the regions to the north, he says, '' They are ri.h in minerals; inexhaustible coal-fields skirt the Kucky Mountains through 12° of latitude ; beds of ^ual crop out to the surface on various parts of the Antic coast; veins of lead-ore traverse the rocks of Coronation Gulf, and the Mackenzie River fiows tiirough a well-wooded tract, skirted by metalliferous ranpjes of mounta-is, and ofi'ers no obstruction to steam navigation for upwards of 1,200 milos." Mr. Ali'xandor Mackenzie met with petroleum, lumps of iion oro, and mineral springs, and says that all the Indians ho encountered had either iron or copper tips to their spears. On tho western parts of the Fertile Belt gold exists, probably in large quantities. On the banks oi the North Saskatchewan miners are already at If i i i, 1, ■,1 ■ ^ ! »; 'i I ni • 1- r). r ; n;it ■ B . I t; = 1 i .j N 1 ( ' (it i if I ;'■*' ' '» ; ■■^ ■ ii !| ij«. |! , if 180 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. work, somo having found their way over tlie V.vh Mountains from British Cohimbia, otliors froai I;. .1 1 Eivor and the United States, and undoubtedh-, fr.,ni the facilities of apjiroach and the ahundanco of fool to 1)0 procured in the neighbourhood, a llourisliin.'] settlement will soon spring up. A great number of wild animals fit for food aro found in all directions. Buffaloes are still vervr.i. merous. There are the caribou and mooso, lilack anil grizzly bear, musk rat, porcupine, beaver, an.l rabbit>, or ratiier hares, in great numbers ; two kinds of sm;ill| deer, the wapiti, the i)rong-horned antolopo, bio; horn. and mountain goat. The musk ox is conlined to t]i>'j more northern regions. So wantonly are the butlaLied slaughtered that they must in time disappear, ar/l civilization alone can jirevent the Indians, who suli- sist on them, from vanishing at the same tiDi<.. Wolves, possessing the usual characteristics of tlu ir I race, abound in some districts, but they liavo bti:. almost exterminated in the neiglibourhood of tkl Eed Ivivor settlements. To these may Ix; added :!..' horse, of which the Indians possess a peculiarlvharJv and sagacious breed, which they train admirably fir I hunting the buffalo. They have great jmmbersu:| large and powerful dogs Avhich they employ in draj ging their sleighs. They are always used fur win:, r I travelling, and will draw a sleigh, with one man, over | the snow at the rate of six miles an hour. In the lakes, whitefish, which range from t\vuir| three up to seven pounds, are the most esteemed Pike also are very fine. Sturgeon are cauglit in lakn Yv'innipeg and the Lower Saskatchewan of the weiglit of IGO lbs. Trout also grow to a great size, ai.d tlitre FISn — WILD FOWL. 181 ^ goMoyes, catfish, and suckers. Tho names of tiie two last are not attractive, but tlio fisU tliom- selves are excellent. Nearly all the fish to be found .3 tho Canadian lakes and streams are to be found X the lakes and streams of this territory. I lucks, jilovert:, prairie hens, and many other varieties of wild ^owl are abundant. Pigeons al>o at some seasor^s visit the country in great (j'lantitic's, and it may bo said that nearly all th-' foatliered tribes known in Canada are to bo I'lund in equal numbers here. Professor Hind men- tiuns various ducks, loons, and other aquatic birds ; partridges, rails, whip-poor-will, golden-plover, hairy woodpecker, Canadian jay, blue jay, Indian hen, and woodcock. In order to afford the fullest information as to the agricultural advantages of this highly-favoured region, the following extracts are given from official documents and the writings of persons on whose ac- curacy and veracity full reliance may be placed. First, turning to Professor Hind's work on the Red River and Saskatchewan, * let us visit, with him, tho farm of an English yeoman, born and bred in the old countrv. It is situated on the banks of the Assinni- loiue, about nine miles from Fort Garry. * ' A small ?tack-vard was filled with stacks of wheat and hav; his barn, which was very roomy, was crammed with wheat, barley, potatoes, pumpkins, turnips, and carrots. Tho root crops were shortly to be transferred to the root-houses, which he had constructed by excavating • Narrative of the Canadian Bed River Exploring Exped tion of 1857, »adof the Assinniboiue and Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition of 1858. By H. Y. Hind, Professor of Chemistry and Geology, in the Uaiver-iity of Trinity College, Toronto. II ( : \ ■ '\ i; .; j i. 'i| 182 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. t ■if; > 111 < \' i '■ I- ' ' ' i V 'I I > '!h- n- I #^ 'I! ,1 • ii 1> ^ ■ : ) chambers near the high bank of the Asslnniboinp, an 1 draininjj^ them into the river. Access was tliron^'h i hole in the top, with a movable roof. Frost iKv.r entered, and ho found no difficulty in prcsfrvin.' a largo stock of potatoes and turnips tliroiiirh tlu: severe winters of this region. lie had grown V measured bushels of wheat to the acre. His turnips (Swedes) were magnificent; four of them Tvciglif] 70 lbs., two 39 lbs., and two others 31 lbs. "Whatever manure his yard and stables siipplieil he gave to green crops and the garden. His putatj crop, still in the ground, fur surpassed in (juantiiy, quahty, and size any I had ever seen before. As Mr. Gowler turned tliem up I counted thirteen, fourte. n, and sixteen potatoes, averaging three and a half Inches in diameter, at each root respectively. Tiny were planted 1st June, and were ready for eatin;^ 16th or 18th of August. The winter supply was rarely taken out of the ground before the beginnin,; of October. Indian corn succeeded well on Mr. Gowler's farm, and onions of rare dimensions were growing in his garden. He had a splendid crop (il melons, the seed being sown at the end of May, and the fruit gathered about the 1st of September; they were grown in the open air, without any artificial aid. Mr. Gowlor insisted on my tasting his wife's cheese and smoking his tobacco ; the first was toler- able, but the latter was tembly strong. " He had brought under cultivation a greater breadth of land than in any previous year. Ho sowed 63 bushels of wheat, 36 of barley, 24 of oat.s, and 101 of potatoes; and from these he realized 700 bushels of wheat, 350 of barley, 480 of oats, and PRODUCTIVENESS OF THE SOIL. 183 2.100 of potatoes. Tho cost of the seed was £50 ; tilling: soil, £2.3; gathering and thrashing, £100. Mr. Gowl' r'f profits have alrea' oak woods require no looking after. . . . Tliu cattk during summer roam at large at the back of the cul- tivated land, where they find excellent pasturaa;!': owing to the anno^^ance caused by the M)ull dogs' (a species of fly), mosquitoes, and other tlies, they collect in the smoke of smouldering fires made for their protection ; but in the fall wander off and are often not seen for weeks. The cows are milked regularly twice a day. It is usual at the Eed liiver to keep cattle housed and fed during winter ; but as cattle sometimes on the Saskatchewan renuiin out all the winter in the same way as horses, herds of lattl' might bo wintered out in sheltered situations, "witii the assistance of a little hay cut in the previous summer. Wheat grows well at the missiuuarv station at the north end cf Mani^obah Lake." Captain l*alliser, who winti'red at Fort Edmonton, saj's that all his horses got well through the season, with the exce^^tion of four which died, and iiinf were stolen. The Cypree's i^Iountains, one of tlio few fertile spots south of the belt, in lat. 4i)" 08 >., 1» COXir-rUlISON WITH CANADA. 189 long, llv)^ w., are a range elevated 1,000 feet above the level of the plains, cove 'ed with line timber, iiboimding in excellent grass, well watered, and lairly, tliough not abundantly, stocked with game. Captain Palliser and his party remained some days ill tiio mountain to hunt and prepare provisicms. We have, therefore, sufficient evidence to ])rove that the whole of the Fertile Belt is well suited for the habitation of civilized man, and that there are other fertile districts to the south and east, among the labyrinths of lakes and rivers. Tliere is ample gi-ouii(l, tit for cultivation, to support the po])ulation required to maintain the road between tlio Lake of the Woods and Lake Superior. Abundant evidence, indeed, shows that as an agricidtural country it is not inferior to the best parts of Canada, while for pastoral purposes it is in most respects superior. An account given in the following chapter, of the foun- dation of the settlement, proves that, in si)ite of the rigour of the season, it is possible for people from the old country (Scotch at all events) to exist without huts, in skin tents, with but slight covering and only a scanty supidy of food. Even at that time one coiiiitany of fur-traders showed their wisli to prevent settlement by attacking the ccdonists, killing many, l.v.-.aing their huts, and driving them from their lands. The farmer is not witliout his natural foes liere, as in every part of the world. AV'olves at t)ne time constantly visited the Selkirk settlement, but in consef[Ucnce of head-money being given, IMr. Hind find Captain Palliser say they are now never seen. Thoy must, of course, be looked for at first in the ; n 1 !i r 1' ^i I i k ■* '■ 190 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 1 > ■ 1 i i ^ I1 I if I if 'ii '1 new settlements. Spring frosts rarely injure the crops, but autumn frosts sometimes do so, unless the crops are forw;ard. Those cereals, therefore, which come with greatest speed to maturity are most suituhle for the climate. A species of locust, called by tlie settlors grasshoppers, occasionally appear and commit great havoc ; but Mr. Eoss, who certainly did not wish to tempt settlers to come out, stated that from ]81li (when the colonists' scanty crops were destroyed Lv grasshoppers) to 1856, when he wrote, they had not reappeared in sufficient numbers to commit anv material damage. Mr. Hind, however, saw flights of them in the prairies to the south, and the year before his visit they had partially destroyed the crops at Prairie Portage, wliile, in the following year, some made their appearance at the Red Eiver. Their ravages, however, are not to be comi)ared D those committed by the red locust in E^ypt, and vf-t Egypt has ever been one of the chief granaries of the world. "None of the diseases, with the exception of smut or rust, nor of the insect enemies, to Mhich the wheat crops in Canada and the United States arc subject, occur, it is said, at Red River," observes Mr. Hind. '' I heard no complaints of rust. Although I made numerous inquiries respecting destructive insects, yet I could hear of none similar to tlio Hessian tly, or wheat fly, as having been observed there." Fires occur on the prairies in the autumn, as is well known, but the settlements do not appear ever to have suffered from them. Where cattle are feeding, of course the grass is kept down, and it should not bo allowed to grow long near any AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. 191 -ttlements. There can be little cause to (irn.*d the hostility of the Indians. When the numerous small Wies of tlie exploring expeditions of Captain PaUiser and Professor Hind were wandering about in every iirection, they were never once molested. This was, of course, much owing to their judicious conduow. We sliouid state that Mr. Bourgeau, wno was jplected l)y Sir William Hooker to accompany Cap- tain Palliser's expedition as botanist, fully confirms in his report all the statements which we have made f;s to the advantages for agricultural settlement in Eupert's Land, particularly in the Saskatchewan district. '' In effect, the few attempts at the culture of cereals already made in the vicinity of the Hudson's Paj CoDipany's trading posts, demonstrate by their success how easy it would be to obtain products suf- ticiently abundant to remunerate largely the efforts of the agriculturist. There, in order to put the land under cultivation, it would be necessary only to till the better portions of the soil. The prairies otfer natural pasturage as favourable for the main- tenance of numerous herds as if they had been artiticially created. The vetches found here, of which the principal are Tlcia, ITedi/mrum, Lathjrus, and A'^teaffolus, are as fitting for the nourishment lit cattle as the clover of European pastiu'age." Who, aft'.r this evidence, can doubt that this vast territory is capable of maintidning a population equal to that of any kingdom in Europe — a territory whicli, when once peopled with civilized men, must rise, with rapidity unexampled, to wealth and importance. Mil 4 tfjf is ' s ( » '-TTir^TSTfl* :■ I i l! i 4,L ^r: ':I1 I r'* CnAPTER X. EARLY SETTLEMENT OF BRITISH CENTRAL NORTH AJSIEllICA. History and present state of the Red River or Selkirk scttlomer- IMinsionaries in the north-west territory — Early trials and siitlt-nr.-;- Results (nonior. general of Canada, he sent commissioiKTs to tli>' settlement to inquire into the state of iiiluirs. The result was, that deeds of violence became less common, and the settlers were allowed to establish thcmsolves in peace. They were a somewhat motley collectiijn, chiefly Scotch, with a few English and Irish, and th^ men of a disbanded regiment known as Do !Mouron's. consisting of French, German, Swiss, and otlier Euro- pean nations, who proved, however, not the best of settlers. Still the new colony went on inoreasirp. for the excessive fertility of the soil, tlio easy water communication with other parts, and the {il)unflan(e of fish and game, persuaded the settlors tliat pros- perity was yet in store for them, when two events occuiTed which well-nigh put an end to all tlioir hopes. The first was a flood, which in the early sprirg, by the sudden melting of the snow, swept ov(^r the lower part of the settlement, destroyin*; their fields and carrying away their houses ; the next was an unusual visitation of locusts or grasslioppers, as they are familiarly called, which totally destrovfl their crops, and brought them to the verge of starva- tion. Few, however, abandoned the settlement ; witli admirable courage they determined to persevere, and although many years afterwards a second Hood came and another flight of locusts, they were by that time too firmly established to be rooted out. There were numerous flourishing homesteads ; ami sheep, horned cattle, and horses had been introduced in considerable numbers, and had been found to answer admirably. i ' INCREASE OF POPULATION. 195 Although the greater number of the settlers were piotestants, there was no minister among them — a Lmnan acting in that capacity among the Presbj'te- riiins — when a body of Roman Catliolic Canadians arrived, with two French priests, in July, 1818. In 1S20 *he foundation of a Roman Catholic church was laid. In the fall of that year the Rev. ^tr. West, an Episcopal clergyman selected by the Church Mis- sionary Society, arri yd in the capacity of chaplain to the Hudson's Bay Company. His directions were to reside at Rod River, and to endeavour to amelio- rate tlio coTidition of the Indians. Ho was gladly received by all denominations of I'rotestants, and the scrnces he held were from the first well attended. He afterwards settled among the Scotch colonists, by whom ho was much beloved. In addition to minis- trations in the pulpit, he opened a school, where from twenty to twenty-five children attended. In 1.S23 the whole population of the colony was only GOO ; its increase was steady though slow ; in 1843 it had reached 5,143; in 1849, 5,291 ; in 1856, r)..')23. The greatest increase has been by the families of half-castes, who now number about 820 families. A very large number of those who originally came from Europe, had, up to 1856, quitted the settlement, despairing that anything like liberal institutions would be granted them, or that they would have a road opened up to enable them to carry their produce to the Canadian market. Situated as they were, there existed but one purchaser of their produce, the Hudson's Bay Company, from whom in return they had to take all their stores. The whole system under ^hich they lived was so utterly at variance with any lifvij, 3 ' :■, t ' u urn i t '.■ -i I . I t 1; 5 V I; ■I 1, ' 1 ! M ' 196 BKiTISn NORTH AMERICA. to w^hlch British 8ul)jccts aro usually compollod t., submit, that it is only surprisini^ that tlioy sliouM havo so long endured it with ev.m tolerable patienro To liio ontorpriso of an Amoriran conipiiny, the settlement is indeT)tod for the adviuitan;'(! of steam communioation along the whole navigablo part (.f the river from Fort Garry upwards. In the rnitfil States, also, they havo hitherto found tho onlv market for their produce, supplying themselves in return with American goods. One of the most important events in tlio liiston- of tlio colony, was the visit of the late 15ishf)p (.f Quebec, Dr. Mountain, as he brought its coiulitiun before the public far more prominently than had hitherto been done. Through his roprescTitations, a bishop was appointed to superintend the clerfry of the territory, who received the title of tlio IJish^p of Rupert's Land. Since his arrival, in ISt!), li^ has devoted all the energies of his mind to thf improvement of the natives and settlers, to tlie establishment of a college and schools for tlio hig'her as well as tho lower orders, to iho erection of nKjrt' churches, and to the extension of missionary ciibrts amonjjr the heathen. Ilis untirini*; devotion is sli'iwn in a little incident mentioned by Professor Hind. His lordship not being at home, he wont to tlio school-house, where, on entering, he found 'Mht' bishop, seated bei ''een two young half-castes, tcdchiw] them quadratic equationi^. Ilis lordship told mt\" con- tinues Professor Hind, "that the two lads slinwod a remarkable talent for mathematics, and for the sake of encouragement, he made a point of giviiii; them instruction in algebra after the daily routine of the I I INDIAN SETTLEMENT — STONE FoRT. 197 jihool was over, so that tlio extra tuition should in floway interfere with the more necessary ro([uire- iients for their future station in life." Much, also, :Wuetotho untiring exertions for a long course of rears uf Archdeacon Cochrane, who formed a settlo- aiiut at I'rairie Portage, chiefly of Indians, while all visitors speak in higli terms of the patient self- J(,iiyiii;j^ constancy of all the missionaries throughout tiie territory. The sottlemonts commence a few miles above Lake Winiiilx'iJ:, and extend to the south for some oO miles along lied liiver, and to the westward for about ;o miles, thus including Prairie Portage. Between tlmt place and White Horse l*laius, however, there i5 a considerable distance without settlers. The whole population may be reckoned at about 10,000. In the lower section, the parish of St. Peter, nearest Lake Winni2)eg, the inhabitants are mostly Indians, under charge of an Episcopal clergyman. In the next parish stands the Stone Fort, or Lower Fort Garry, by far the finest establishment in the terri- tory. A square area of some six acres in extent is enclosed with walls and bastions of stone. The stores are situated on either side, and in the centre stands the residence of the ollicers — an imposing building, with verandahs running completely round it. and grounds in front laid out and planted -with jn'eat taste. The establishment is under the charge of a Scotch gentleman, who carries on extensive farming operations, and has brought a considerable extent of new land under cultivation. Above it is the part of the settlement s;")oken of as the Eapids, from tiio chai'actor of the river which flcvws through it. I:i vi V ' ! li.»^ I I J 1 -^ -.1 f t^^i^Sbsaas i i| '' \ 198 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. St. Andrew's church stands ahovo the Grand Tiah'uU, Tho next parisli is tluit of St. I'aur.s, and ulovo i^ St. John's. Betwoon tho two is situated tlio ScoMi Presbyterian churcli and parochial school. The inhabitants of all those parislics, called tlit) niid(ll.. part, aro mostly retired traders and voyagcurs, i,j descendants of tlio first Scotch sottler.s. On tlif banks of tho A.ssinniboine is St. James's parisli anl church, but the congrejjation is small, on aicount ol tho number of Roman Catholics in the neighbour- hood. Education is not neglected in the setth.-ments. There aro numerous schools, and several publi. libraries; amongst which we may name the iollowin.^ St. John's College includes a boarding-school lur boys and girls, imder the immediate supervision ui the Bishop of Eupert's Land. Here a thst-ratu education is given, and several of the pupils hiivi; distinguished themselves at tho English univorsitits and in those of Canada. Others have been orduiiieJ as ministers to labour in tine territory. There is a model training institution and a larg" number of parochial and private schools, some ui which are under tlie supervision of their reppt'ctive ministers. Ten of the Episcopal schools aro sup- ported by the ** Church Missionary Society," one by the *' Society for the Propagation of the Gospel,' while others receive assistance from Exeter Collego, Oxford, private firms in Edinburgh, and from Eiigii^li congregations. Thus there is an admirable commencement oi a system of education for all classes. Little or no improvement is required — simply enlargement, ani MISSIONAllY DIFFICULTIES. 199 ffhon moro settlors arrive, and funds are fortliroming, tiii:< will (■(.'rtaiuly take place. In a'ldition to tlie churches and schools that have }veQ founded in the ncij^hbourliood of the Red Kivor, the love of Christ has induced missionaries to ■:>) forth to spread the p^lad ti;ion of barbarism, so that its inhabitants were oblirviJ lur months witbout spoilinf;. t The following accounts of missionary labour are derived from varioua reliable sources ; for Mr. Cochrane' s report we are indebted to *' The liu;u- bow in the >'orth." M ? I MISSIONARY LABOURS. 201 that contribute io our daily comfort, tho colonists fere entirely dependent on England. "This inconvenience is increased by the impossi- bility of obtaining any supplies from home except once in the year. Hudson's Bay is blocked up by fields of ice, except for a brief space during the summer months, so that vessels can seldom reach York Fort before the end of August, and are then obliged to unload and take in their cargoes as quickly as possible, lest their return should be cut off by a barrier of ice forming at the entrance of the bay, and preventing their leaving it during the winter. This annual visit of the ships was also the sole opportunity of either sending or receiving European letters, but once in the course of the winter the missionaries had the privilege of send- ing a small packet with the official despatches via Canada." The missionaries were tried by the severest suffer- ings from cold, ill-health, storms, floods, and famine. They were often reduced to the extremity of not knowing whence the food for the next day could be procured, and more than once the only supply for themselves and their households was some half-ripe barley. Notwithstanding these great and varied difficidties, they persevered in their arduous work. Several retired servants of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, with native wives, settled round them. A school-house and church were built, and the out- ward trials they had to endure were blessed by the Spirit of God to the souls of many. In 1829 Mr. Cochrane removed with his family to tho Grand Eapids, to foim another settlement about ' 1 i iHil 1 ^ • .1 I V ! )! I i * i k 't^'UutklM'V.^^. ..» i.i 202 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. n I I i l!i n 1 1 in t i' I : 1 1 I'M i> ; il fi fifteen miles from the former. He soon saw that not only for the temporal but for the 8i)iritual welfare of the people it was of the utmost im- portance to reclaim them as much as possible from their wild and wandering habits, and to lead them to more settled and peaceful employments ; so as to have an opportunity of instructing them more effectually. While, therefore, he took every oppor- tunity of declaring to them the gospel in all its simplicity and power, of endeavouring to lead them to a conviction of sin, and of the need of a Saviour, he spared no pains, either by argument or example, to induce them to turn their minds to agriculture, This was no easy matter, on account of their idle- ness and awkwardness, and. it required much per- severance to overcome so many difficulties. Yf;t he soon began to see some results from his patient, self- denying labours, and it was not long before the whole face of the country assumed a very improved aspect. The spiritual progress of the people kept pace with their external improvement, they eagerly sought for religious instruction, many applied for baptism, and in 1831, only two years after his settling among them, the congregation had increased from thirty to three hundred, while the alteration in their general habits and moral conduct boro testi- mony to the reality of the work within. On Mr. Cochrane's first settling at the Grand Eapids he had built a school-house where service was held. But the increase in the number ol worshippers soon caused a larger building to be required. Poor as the people were, they assisted him in this to the utmost of their power. In 1S31 a REPORT OF ARCHDEACON COCHR.VNE. 203 ffooden church was finished. This has since been replaced by a handsome stone edifice, which cost £1,600, the larger part of which was supplied by ;he congregation. Tho people were regular in their attendance at the house of God. " In England," Mr. Cochrane says, "it is a frequent and painful remark, * So many at market, and so lew at church ! ' but here it is the reverse. On week-days you may travel for miles, and not see a human face ; but on Sundays, as the time of service draws near, the track is covered with old, and young, and middle-aged, pressing forward to worship God in the congregation. It never comes into their minds that a slight cold, or a soaking rain, or a violent snow-storm, or a piercing frost, are any reasons to keep them from public worsliip. They have made up their minds to bo found always in tho house of God, and hitherto their strength has beea equal to their day. Be tho weather never so bad, none ever stay away but the aged and the sick ; and when the ground is too wet for the women and (liildren to walk, they are put into their little (arioles ; while the men, carrying their shoes in their hand, walk by th(ur side through mud and water reaching half-way to their knees," Nor was this a mere formal attendance. Divine truth had reached the hearts of many hoareis, and they had become new creatures. The instances of (unversion are so interesting that we regret that space forbids us to record more than two. A woman, whom Mr. Cochrane visited in her illness, in reply to his questions as to what chiefly occupied her thoughts y/hile lying alone on her bod Ih 1 ■; It ; I I i - ■( 7 I I :!, 'i: ' \T 11 «i| p 'it ii M I :, i I M ! 204 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA, of sickness, mentioned Matt. xi. 28, and Jolm vi. 37. ** These words," she added, "dwell in my mind day and night." Then, clasping her hands, with tlio tears rolling down her cheeks, she excluimeil, ** Precious Saviour ! thou art the best friend in tlie day of sickness ! " '* A man, finding himself very near his end, sfr.i to the missionary to come and see him. A\'hen h" entered, he exclaimed, ' This is the last ^•isit you will ever pay me. I know I shall soon die, Lut I have no fear : I nave a Saviour, a friend in licavtii, who hears my prayers, who draws away my heart from all below, even from my wife and cliildren, and leads it to himself. I have sent for you to tell nic ali you know about this new state.' Then stretcli- ing* out both his arms, as a bird stretching out its wings to tly away, he exclaimed, ' I want to p^o and be with Him who has washed away my sins in his own blood, and now gives me rest and peace in the midst of pain and suifering.' Five years before, as we find from the journals, this man was a heathen. "The intercourse that the missionaries had witlitlie Indians who from time to time joined their respective congregations, convinced them that the only eti'cctual mode of jiermanently benefiting this people was by forming an exclusively Indian settlement, where tlie peculiarities of their minds and habits could more freely develop themselves and be more elib(,tually directed than when dwelling among a mixed p<>pula- tion. When the Indian steps on shore from liis birch-rind canoe, his blanket thrown over his naked shoulders, in one hand his gun with wliich to pro- INDIAN LETTER. 205 cnrp his next meal, and on his other arm a small lia;chet with which to cut the poles for his tent, fol- io red by his family, as peeled as himself — a few pieces of birch-rind for their tent, and a kettle to cook ;h. ir food, constituting the whole of their property ; -if such a man even wishes to change his habits, how ]i he to do it ? He has neither knowledge nor im- rjements of husbandry, nor power of obtaining either. All must be gratuitously bestowed on them, if we wuiild locate them ; and we must locate them before we can i)reach the gospel to them." It must not be supposed that the writer held the erroneous opinion that civilization, of itself, could be expected to facilitate the reception of the gospel ; but the case of the Eed Indian was a peculiar one, and required a peculiar course of proceeding. The evangelization of the new settlement was begun in 1833, and though the progress was slow, it was steady. The Indians became more and more anxious to be instructed in the knowledge of Christ. A chief of the Muscaigoes sent this message to the English Missionary Society: — " Teil them to make haste; time is short, and death is snatcliing away our friends very fast : tell them to make haste." A letter was also sent from the principal men at the Indian villan;o to the Church Missionary Society in the fol- lowing words : — "August l8t, 1838. "Servants of the Great God, " Wo once more call to you for help, and hope our cry will avail. You sent us Avhat you called the ^ord of God ; we left our liunting-grounds axid came to hear it. But we did not altogether like it, for it :;■ )i i I I M^ ■*i'.r u 1 . * If I 1 ■ ■!■ T •^r-' ' 1 '. y- 1 \ i }. i 1 V J- i 1 1 '; ■ '^. > 1 t ! : lH|.4 !i :t i!; ri i » ;.' ■'Is ' ! ■ • \ i • f 206 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. told US to leave off drunkenness and adultorv. to keep only one wife, to cast away our idols and aii our bad heathen ways ; but as it still repeated t() us that, if we did not, the ^reat God would send us to the great devil's fire, by tlie goodness of Gdd wo saw at last it was true. We now like the word of Gud. and we have left off our sins ; we have cast awav our rattles, our drums, and our idols, and all ow bad lieathen ways. *' But what are we to do, our friends ? 'Mr. Joni n is going to leave us ; Mr. Cochrane talks of it. Must we turn to our idols and gods again ? or must wo turn to the French praying-masters ? We see tliroo French praying-masters have come to the Iiiver, and not one for us ! What is this, our friends ? Tin? word of God says that one soul is worth more than all the world ; surely, then, our friends, three hun- dred souls are worth one praying-master! It is mt once or twice a week teaching that is enough to make us wise ; we have a bad heart, and we hate our bad hearts and all our evil ways, and we wish ti; cast them all away, and we hope in time, by the lub of God, to be able to do it. But have patience, our friends. We hope our children will do better, and will learn to read God's book, so as to go forth h) their country-people to tell them the way of life, and that many may be saved from the great devil's fire. ** We hope you will pity us, and hear our cry, and send us a father to live with us here to teach us. We thank you all for what you have done for us. and for sending us tlie word of life ; and may the great God be kind to you all ! AV"e feel our hearts T^rORK OF CONVERSION. 207 fore ■when we think of you all, and the jiraying- masters that are here : we i)ray for you and for them, and shall still do so." To sliow the nature of the work of conversion among tlio Indians we give but one example. A roimg man who had for some time ^ een under the intluenco of religion, and who now lay on his dying beJ, sent for Mr. Cochrane, who asked him — "Joseph, what do you wish me to do for you? " "I have sent for you, sir, to pray for me just here," pointing to his bedside. ''When I was strong and could go to church, I felt happy in the \rorship of God ; and as long as I co'ild kneel down here and pray, I found my heart light ; but now I cannot rise, my heart is heavy and cold as ice, and I fear it is not well with me." "Do you," asked Mr. Cochrane, "believe that the Son of God is able and willing to save you ? " "Yes, entirely," answered the youth ; "and it is liy looking to him that my heart has l)eon drawn awav from the world ; and I now roioice tlisit T am going out of it. In heaven I shall be near God, and lie will make me happy. I sometimes feel a little afraid when I think of the change, but I say to myself that Jesus is there, and he will call me to come near him, and then all my fears go." Tlio following advice, given by an Indian father to his son when parting with him, is worthy of record : — "My son," said he, " as long as you have lived at home you have seen me pray ; you have gone to churcli and heard that God is love. When you go through the plains you will no longer see me pray- ing, you will no longer be told of your God and 1 ■• 1 :L . \ } ■■ ■• 1 \ 1 \ \ 1 ,?-:-^i: ..■ I I I ,1 t ' ^ t hi l t > i i h. a i' 11:1 I ) I ■ H'i' .i; 4^ %l \ 1 1 i if 208 URITISH NORTH AMERICA. Saviour. There you will meet with men whose hearts are cruel, who would like to drive an arrow throuf^h your heart, take the scalp from your hoad, and drink your blood. My son, when nif>ht comes on, before you close your eyes in sleep, ask your Gm<1 to look on you, and spread his hand over you, for that you are alone, far from lionie, and have no otlur friend but him. When morning comes, ask liim to go with you on your way, to turn bad nu'n on one side, that they may not meet you. Never for^^ot tliat the blood of Christ cleanseth from all sin. Trust in it; God has accepted it for your soul, and tlu'oughit you and I shall meet in heaven." The father added to Mr. Cochrane — ** My heart was light when I saw my son take hi? Bible and some tracts, and when he squeezed my hand with tears in his eyes, and said, ' I will romem- ber Him who is over all till we meet again.' " This mission in its labours and successes is but a specimen of very many in that vast territory, which, by the labours of faithful men and the blessing of God, is being conquered for Christ and his Gospel. Our prayer is that active, intelligent, well-educated young men may be moved to offer themselves as missionaries to the Indians. What more noble occu- pation than to bear the glad tidings of salvation to a perishing people ? Surely such a calling is not beneath the ambition of the best educated of England's sons, and we trust that some who road this account may learn to regard missionary work in its true light, and take an active part in it. A pleasing account of this mission is given bv a recent traveller. He and several of his men "were PLEASING INCIDENT. 209 attacked with fever on their passage down the Win- me^ Iviver. lie says: — "So im'ectioufl was the disease, and of a type so virulent, that four out of ►i:ht individuals who were in my canoe were attacked with it. I and one of my men found shelter with »iie Kev. R. McDonald, who, strant^ers as wo were to him, did all for us that kindness could prompt or intelligence sugj^est ; and on our getting a little better, perceiving my anxiety to rejoin my party, he jrejtarf'd liis canoe and accompanied me all the way tiilJed liiver. Mr. McDonald is a clergyman of the Kpiscopnl Church, in connection with the Church Missionary Society ; and I may here mention an incident of the journey which, as it is illustrative of 'i practice common with all missionaries wlien travel- lini; in that remote region, will serve in some measure to show the beneficial influence which their presence is producing among the native population. Every evening as we proceeded down the Winnipeg, as soon as the necessary preparation had been made lur passing the night, the whole party, including his people and mine, in number seventeen, and, with three exceptions, all either pure Indians <>r partly of Indian origin, was assembled, when prayers were read and appropriate hymns sung. The Indians all joined, and, as night closed in, it had a strange effect in that unbroken wilderness to hear the anthem rising above the din of the rushing torrent, and to see the children of the forest bent in prayer, where so lately they had been accustomed to invocations of another kind. " The station here referred to by Mr, Dawson is a •■ery important one. The Indians from Lac Seul on i V \ ' ri i 1 } I i n a i i. -4 1 H i !j* '''1 I' ! : ■;, k. mt il rt- .tw>ahi U M , ■♦»— -.»E— -^ .- I i 210 BBITISH NORTH AMEUICA. i li I i u t u j ) : i; ?* ^i: ! 1 II i: Si ■ the Enjjlish River, from Lee Portage, and from th, Lake of the Woods, sometimes assemble tlnM'p, mure especially -when they go to collect the Avild riif, which is abundant in the neighbourhood. As vtt there is only a congregation of fifty or sixty, but the establishment is not witliout its intluenco on the tar greater number who have not embraced (Jhristianitv. It is impossible that tliese untutored sava^^es can contemplate with indifl'crence the etlurts of a man who seeks them out in distress, ministers to them in illness, and does all in his power to relievo thiir necessities ; tliis the writer had an oi)j)ortunity of observing, for when he was there the chiefs came to see him as they passed, and it w^as not dilHcult to perceive the reverence and respect with which they all regarded him." The Wesleyan Missionary Society of Canada in connection with the English Conference sends three missionaries into British Central America, ono to Norway House, another to Oxford Ilouse, and a third to Edmonton and the Eocky IMouiitains. Norway House is a very important position at the northern end of Lake Winnipeg. Eossville, too, will probably some day become a place of importancf'. The church there consists of nearly two liundrod members. Abupdant proof has been given that the seed sown has not been cast aw- ay. The knowletlgo ot the truth has been conveyed even to the I'ar-distant Indian tribes by their converted brethren. At a meeting held in St. John's school-room in 18CU, where the Bishop of Rupert's Land presided, Lord Southesk stated "that in the Rocky Mountains he ' ^ _ t THE GOSPEL IN THE WIIJ^EUNESS. 211 ;V0 in with a party of Assinniboincs, who maintained uniily pniyors : they assembled at the sound of a Wl, and engaj^ed in Hinjjjing and prayer. They t^kpil liis lordsliip for Christian instruction, and lie left witli them several passages of Scripture. These iniorestiiig incpiirers had not seen a missionary, but h\ obtained a knoAvledgo of tlui gospel, and of writing in the syllabic characters, through another InJiiiu who had been instructed by the Weslcyan ;ui>sionary, Mr. liundle, many years before. A true ihristian fellow-feeling prevails among the mis- N^niiry clorgymon of the territory. Archdeacon Hunter mentions that a united prayer-meeting was lifkl at kit. Andrew's. lie says, "Eight hundred wtre assembled, and were deej^ly impressed with the >)ours of the paddl.'. Tt often happened that, throu^'-h falls, rapids, or ofhrr obstacles, it was necessary that the canoo should 1„. lightened, and its carj^o and itself carried somo d:>- tance overland. Sixty-two of such lon<.,fer or ! confer with the catechist and encourage him in t]i<; good work. We again quote from tlio hishoji^ journal. "After writing home, etc., I wont to luar the children read and sin^". They sang licMlford, Old Hundred, St. Augustine, and others, to t>al- teaux hymns. We then mustered for evening prayer, and sang the 2ord Psalm to Bedford. AVo then sang a hymn in English, and joined in praytr in that tongue, closing with tho Lord's Prayer and tlio Benf- diction in Salteaux, which I could just pronoume, the children following and taking up the words ul the former. It was a pleasing scene, and gave m>' a lively hope that a good work was rooting liere, the fruits of which might appear at the last day." A further extract may be made, in illustration ol the country and tho mode of conveyance across it. "We started soon after one o'clock. Tlio scenery around was very beautiful ; indeed the situation et NATIVE BAPTISM. 215 Islington is just what would be chosen at home for a quiet country-seat; the walks cut through the woods would be picturesque, and the boating in every direc- tion woidd afford constant amusement and variety. We soon arrived at a portage, and that a long and tangled one. It would have required the sappers and miners to clear a pathway, and open up sufficient room for my canoe. One of our men preceded with an axe, cutting to the riglit and left, both the over- topping branches and the smaller trees. One thought at once of the highway of the Lord — of the method in whicli the jiath of tlie conqueror was opened of old, and the call to the messengers of the cross, 'Prepare ye the way of the Lord.' " The next day another pause took place on the banks of the English liivor, to administer the rite of baptism to three Indian candidates, two elderly men and a woman. The incident was j^eculiarly interest- ing and suggestive. "They stood by my side. We pang together, * Come, let us join our cheerful songs.' After which I read Acts viii. 2o, to the end, and then joined in prayer, especially for those to be baptized. 1 next explained to my own party what was about to be done ; that I had j^nrposely read the chapter of Philip and the eunuch, that they miglit see how similar God's church and people are in all times. The eunuch's knowledge was pro])ably not gi'eat, but the Spirit had touclied hi.s heart, and he was baptized on the river side, and wen^ on his way re- joicing. So the knowledge of those before me might not be gi'eat, but they seemed to have a sense of sin and weakness, and a desire for the salvation which is in Christ Jesus. I then put the questions to the 1 If i 1 t! 9 ifll u 1.1 I > t * K^^' IK i ; 1 / 'y '- I 1? 216 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. candidates themselves in a short and simple fonn. Philip, the catechist, then offered up a short pravpr in Salteaux. After tliis, takinj^ Littleton hy tlie rif^ht hand^ I led him to the river's brink, and, with its water, baptized him Adam, in the namo of thf Father, Son, and Holy Spirit. Next, his wife, Kli- zabetli, and tlien takinn'. also tliat more precious freight, the enduring riclii- that fade not away — that the rivers of the land may not only bear the name of Britain, but may posso!-^ something upon them to remind all of Britain's glory, the word and worship of the living God '? " Then on they sped, lish leaping around them. aii4 eagles wheeling overhead, through woods of will iw, poplar, fir, pine, oak, cedar, juniper, and hinh Peach after reach they passed, with ever fresh and varied beauties ; sometimes beguiling the way witii a boat song, at otliers contented with the nuisic »\ the paddles. Occasionally land-locked, to all ap- EXCITING VOYAGE. 217 pt-arance, they open suddenly on a little lake, and liience, perhaps, on a narrow river passage with ibrupt rocks on either side. Then across lar^j^er lakes, studded with verdant isles, sailing before the breeze. So they gain the boundary height, from i\lii(li the water flowed in two opposite directions. We liad finished the ascent, and were now to de- fend towards James's Bay ; the current would now I e with us, and greater speed would mark our move- ments. This was pleasurable to us; but is it so Jways? Is it so in life? Is it a joyful thing to all to feel that middle life is upon them, that they have iliinbod tlio hill and gained the summit ; that theirs is now only the decline, the swift current sweeping iill to the grave ? Yet why this diiference '? ought it not to bo a delightful thing to feel that our face is towards Zion, and our feet drawing nearer to our eternal home ?" Now they begin to shoot rapids, the most exciting part of the voyage, where one false stroke would have 'lashed their frail bark to pieces. On they advance, over a succession of ripj)les or eddies, and along a chain of lakes, each one apparently more picturesque than that preceding. As a specimen of such travol- linir, we may avail ourselves of the writer's own words. " Our only difhculty was, tliat we were blind from excess of light, the sun shining on our faces, and causing sucli a dazzling reflection from the water, that tiie nu'U at times could only guess their course, which, among rocks, was rather critical. "We reached at last Alartin's Falls, the upper and lower. Here we had only partially to lighten the canoe, and launch her down backwards, it was then floated to M f tii I I i £ 1. i1 ' 1 A I » r j-if I * i ) 1 i .1 in' ii| ' it j »■ k ' ; , ( i ■ \ s »■ hi \% 218 BRITISn NORTH AMERICA. an island in the centre : we ourselves crossed where the water was very impetuous and the footing slip- pery ; two of the men stood in the water holding' a long pole, to give a temporary support to those passing over; one then carried me across leaninj^ on this as a banister. Their footing was, of pourse, surer than mine from practice ; but I tremhled as I saw them carrying over some of the piec^es, wliore the slightest sliji of the foot might have been fatal. At last all ^ as safely accomplished." We need not dwell fu7'ther on the details of the bishop's sojourn, nor follow him in his more tedious return to the Red River. A work is being prosecuted at whicli wo should rejoice, amid difficulties wliidi in our own land of liigh religious privilege we cannot adequately estimate. Difficulties there tire in the country itself, the thinness of its population, tho inaccessibility of its scattered stations, tlie rigour ot its climate. Other difficulties arise fi'om the variety ut native dialects, but Calvary can repair the broaches made by Babel, and God's book is a link to bind together the dispersed of the Gentiles as well ii.s the outcasts of Israel. There is l)ut "one Lord, one faith, one baptism," one name only given whereby we may be saved; and time, before its course is run, shall witness and welcome that glorious consummation, when througliout a ransomed world Christ will bo " all and in all." m i.;l 'J CHAPTER XI. fi }, i ST 'i -■ flil hi 1 v> TEATELLINQ IN BRITISn CEXTEAL NORTH AMERICA. Various modes of travelling— Transit from Canada to British Colambia — Cruise on Lake Winnipeg to Red River — The great highway from the Atlantic to the Pacific— Its vast importance — The means proposed for its accumplishment. The modos of transit in the north-west torritory are very various. The traveller in summer may prosecute his journey by carts or waggons, on horse- back, by canoes, barges, or, on the innumerable lakes, by small sailing-vessels. In winter he must travel by sleighs, on horseback, or on snow-shoos. The Red River carts are very ligh^ and strong. They can be formed into rafts when oi'ossing rivers, the wheels being taken off and the luggage floated over. Oxen will drag them at the rate of twenty-five miles a day. Travellers can thus traverse the territory with ease from one end to the other. Travelling on horseback is very pleasant, but, as provisions and baggage must be carried, it has hitherto been im- possible for any great distance. As soon, however, as posts are established along the road, and relays of horses can be obtained, it will become a favourite mode of travelling. The following narrative of the journey of the first largo party of emigrants who crossed ii-om Canada to i in Ill !•' m 1 1 ! f h N' •■ i ^i 1 ^5 1,' 220 BIlITISn NORTn AMERICA. British Columbia, is toe interesting to Lo omitted, especially as it may bo of service to others \\\u) m;iv follow in the same direction. Tiity numbered ulxmt ono hundred and fifty persons; one man had ])r()u<''ut his wife and children ; tho rest were unmarried, or had left their wives to follow. All the larj^^-r towns in Upper Canada were represented; tho persons li-oiii each place forming separate parties. A cajjtaiu av.is chosen with a C(nnmittee to assist him. The ;;uidt' was especially under his orders. lie directed the time of starting and camping, the rate of travelling, and order of march. Tliere were ninety-seven earts, and one hundred and ten animals, some used as saddle horses, and a few spare ones. The largest party took tho lead the first day, tho others following in order according to their size. The next dav the second led, and the largest wont in the rear. The object of this was to prevent jealousy, the first place in the train being considered the best, both for pro- curing game and for passing over soft places in the road before it M^as cut up too deeply by driving over it. So large a party made an imposing appearance, for, when marslialled in close order, it extended over the plain for half a mile. The march was conducted with great regidarity, and, except when occasionally either a cart or harness broke, there were few delays. When an accident of the kind occurred to any 'd' the party, they were ordered to drop out of the line, repair immediately, and then to take their place in the rear, all being provided with tools and ropes. It was supposed that the Indians might attempt to steal their cattle. Tho camp was therefore ar- ranged in a triangidar shape, the carts forming a CANADA TO BRITISH COLUMBIA. 2in Miral, being drawn up side by side, the shafts oiit- ^rard, and the cattlo secured inside, each to its own cart. The tents were pitched on the outsich^, each party occupying the gi'ound opposite to their own arts. Six men were appointed to watch at a time, I iwo being stationed on each side of the triangle. Tho first watch began at ten o'clock, and was changed i^rery two hours. During the first part of the journey till' niglit was divided into three watches, the camp being aroused at four o'clock, so as to be ready to start at five, allowing an hour for breakfast. They drnvo till eleven o'clock, halted for dinner, started ajrain at two, and camped for niglit at six o'clock, making ten hours of travelling each day. A little experience convinced them that six hours' drive in tho forenoon witliout food was too much for the cattle. Accordingly, when the nights became very short, the camp was roused as half-past two, and they started at three, without breakfast ; drove till five, and halted two hours to feed the animals and break- fast ; started again at seven, and drove till eleven, when they halted for dinner, making ten hours a day as before, but with much greater ease. Tlio average rate of travelling was about two and a half miles [ler hour. The first part of the journey was over level prairie, then occasionally they crossed small streams of clear cold water, with higii stoop banks, down which they had to steady their carts with ropt s ; sometimes they met with miry sloughs, where it was necessary to put their shoulders to tho wheels to help their cattle through. Some of tho streams had gently sloping banks, shaded at intervals with groves of poplars. i\\ I i ] u * ■ h i ';? a V 'I ' II' i '••{ !' I''' if ? f i « I i f in \i 1 f- ^•'1 ■ 1 H-: i1 t ■ ! ■ I 222 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. A special article in the constitution of tlicir com- pany, provided that they should rest regularly on the Sabbath. A portion of the day was do voted to religious worship, a practice systematically observed throughout the journey. These exercises Cdiisisted of prayer and praise, and the reading and exposition of a portion of the tjcrlptures. Whatever may have been the sectarian dillerences which 2)revailo(i nnKjn" them at home, here they all met on common ground, and presented their united petitions for that protec- tion they so much needed. With very few exceptions they reached their destination in safety, and without any great hardships. A good idea of travelling in this country is given in the following interesting account of a cruise perpetual alluvial flat, touched by gleams of sunset. rises tlie strange object ; and then wo iiaturallv expect to see the pretty white cottages and Holds of waving grain which surround it ; an English mis- sionary lives here. Again alluvial flats to ('t'dur Lake, which is a mere i)ond on the Saskatdicwiin, though much of it is below the horizon as wo truvorsf from wooded point to point, and are a day and a liali crossing its expanse. " J lark ! the voyageurs' song again ! AYo mrot another brigade of boats, fourteen in nuni])or, toilini: up-stream from Lake Winnipeg. Mr. ( 'hristio, the factor in command, is eloquent on the need ot steamers to navigate these noble waters, and trans- port the huge freights which now travel slowly and toilfully in bateaux. We fully agree with liini, being tolerably tired by this time of our birch-liark equijiage, and pass on to Cross Lake, where we cnnio on the traces of a burnt and drowned forest, tlio ridges covered with charred trunks, and the swamps with soaked shrubs. " The Saskatchewan is now close to its rostin?- place in AVinnipeg, though flowing on a level con- siderably higher ; and at some olden period it is possible that the rush was made at once in perpen- dicular descent over a precipice : but the torrent lias eaten through its limestone barrier, and clianged a cataract (perchance) into a rapid. For almost tlirc miles it flings itself along a rocky channel : and in all America this is the grand rapid, as Niagara is ///-' waterfall. We shoot down the distance in our frail canoe, carried headlong by those great breakers and MOUTH OF THE SASKATCHEWAN. 225 !ur?es, w'liiz/.inp^ past points of rock, doafonod by the thunder of t]w torrent and Llindod by its spray, yet er.jovinjj;' tlio astonisliing swiftness of motion, and exiited by tho sonso of dexterously-ovaded danger, Weliavo indeed passed * The river tluit runs swift,' Tliidi is Saskatchewan in Indian parhmce. " iSafo in smooth water, tho question occurs — How did !Mr. Christie's brigade of boats, how does ever any boat, climb this rapid uji-stream ? (Jur Tuvageurs oxphiin. They liave often helped to ' track ' boats tlirough this difficulty, and, harnessed k leather belts, have drawn them against the full Ibrce of tho cuiTent, by running along tho top of the limestone cliff's. " Presently we reach the mouth of tho Saskatch- ewan, M'here its thousand miles of stream join jilacidly with a lake worthy of such a contribution. From our bivouac on the shingly beach, we see the vast grey level of Winnipeg spreading to the edge of the sky afar. South-east lies tho great dim pro- montory of Kitchi-nashi, or the Big Point, a spur twenty-four miles long. Fifteen hours of tracking the next day along sandy beaches bring us to camp un its extremity. We overtake eight small canoes tilled with Swampy Crees, paddling to tho hshing l^ounds ; subsisting meanwhile on gulls' t'^^^^fi and voiing birds, from an almost exhaustless supply stored on the sandy islets. Their chief is somewhat suspicious about us, and in his superior wisdom thinks our observations and instruments must be connoLtod with a design for seizing on tliis valuable voimtrv, which for scores of miles inland is nothing Wt ' muskeg ' or trembling swamp, composed of I' i- |i« i I 111 11. ) 5 li M' • ) 'i fit ji (fi m III it is ■« i ^1 ■'1 22G UIimsiT NOUTII AMEIIICA. such moss and mud as havo for nod poat traits and bogs in liritalii. However, aft'^r a day or two tliov are reassured, and establisli Icjdn^es aniioably Itcsiil.. our bivouae, and confess that tlieir summer lUhin^' has failed at tho Grand Iwapid ; constMjiieiitly tht-v are often reduced to tho roots of buh'ushes for f ).»,!. when i^ulls fail. *' And now wo find that, like other shulLnv natures, tliis Ijako Winnipeg is very easily lashfMl into a rage : a wind of moderate strength covers it with angry waves and foam. Wo ar(« uiVn obliged to run for shelter into sluggisli cr(>eks anil behind low islets. Oneo are we com[)ell(;d to li;:liti'U cargo by throwing overboard some of our valii.Ml geological specimens. Ho who lias ever cliipiiod fossil from roek Mill comprehend tho grief wiili which a very fine orthocoratite (a massive strai;,'lit- chamljcred shell of extinct species and tlio isilurian period) is east into the uudiscorning deep, and lubt to museums for ever. " At the Little Saskatchewan Eiver we find more Indians encamped, catching whitetish in great num- bers by a process reminding one of our sclioolbov takes of herring fry. Each man, with a scoop ntt on a polo, has built himself a little stone indosure at the edge of tho stream, and as fast as he scoops up fish he throAvs them into this cage ; others take tlicri out and cure them by splitting and drying in tlie sun. These Indians are hospitably inclined, pour nomads, and in a certain wigwam havo cooked a birch-rind dish of fish, sprinkled with blackisli salt, which it is our duty as guests to consume to tlie last morsel, or we sludl give ollence. Wo do not foresee i'i STRAITENED RESOUUCES. 227 ;..•. in a fow clays, tliat duLiously-eookod lisli would v.ipritelGHS luxury, black salt and all. "HilluTto wo Lavo lived on tho poltod moat callod vaimuan, witli hucIi gamo as could bo found ; but :;Doty-six liour.s' imprisonment, from storms, rodueos Ntoa fow pounds of tho fornior in u mouldy state, alwe are obli|:;od to mako a rulo of oidy ono moiil i.i.iy M'hon woiitlu'rb(»un(l, unless wo liavo tlio i^ood irtuiio to cutch anytliiiifjif eatable. l>ut animated u:ure has deserted these wilds. Ono morniu}^ when Tp are at our last mouthful, and our last cliar^o of :-wiler, a bald- leaded ea^^lo comes wheelinjj^ above i> in ^roat circles, and that last charge brings him jjwii into our midst with a collapse — a most accept- able plenishing to our larder, though a trifle tough. ■'The Gth of ^September finds us at tho base of ie Cat Head, which tho Indians sav is the abode of imanitou or spirit ; the all-sufiicient reason being a rimbling at the base, in caverns ojion to tlie surges. Thirty-tive feot is no great altitud<' for a cliif, but in *Jii.s swampy region so much limestone is a phono- aeiion worthy of supernatural exjilanation ; and it is named from tho luilucky chase of a hunter after a lynx, say tho Crees. "Our eagle being consumed, all but his feathirs, we are <^dud to ascend tho Jack-lish lliver, to the Indian basket-traps set near its mouth. We find our civilized salmon-weirs at home anticipatetl by this wildiTuess tiintrivance — a fence of poles built across the stream, jbiping with tho current, allowing tho water to 2>as8 tlu'uii^di; a yard- wide opening near the bank, con- ducting tho fish into a square box with a grated buttoni, sloping upwards, through which falls tho • i ,1 ■ •' \u i \ ' i .1 ! ■ ii I ' \m \4 h 228 BUITISn NORTH AMERICA. 1 ; 1 1 \ i 1 water, leaving them stranded. They have moro wit than to eiitor this prison during dayli^ulit, but at night see no dangc^r, and after the first LowiWrrt ■! flo^-nder are tapped on the head by the mallet of a watching Indian, and Hung ashore. Wo sit up j-U niglit, and catch nearly two hundred tish of varif u^ sorts, cliiefly gold-eyes and pike, wherewith wo doqilv load our canoe, and travel on. " Five days through the narrows of the lake, until we roach the rushes at Red Kiver moutli, where an Indian hunter gives us some of the hundred wild ducks ho has shotdurin*]: the dav: reeds innumerahle, lur as the eye can see ; only an occasicjnal stri[i c: sand and willows to relieve the prospect. Six trlug- gish channels fuse the Red River witli AVinnipofr, which last signifies by interpretation, ' Tlie dirty water,' and deserves not so equivocal a name. *' Entering the main mouth, and rotlccting what unrivalled meadows might be embanked from tlit^^* marshes, wo paddle along for fourteen miles, till th" whole country gradually rises, woods appear in clumps, and we begin to traverse the richest ])rairif in the world. Presently, neat white houses adorn the banks, amid iuclosures of garden and tii'ld: '>v' have reached an Indian missionary village, wli.;-: such aborigines as we left gnawing bulrusht's (jn th'' marshes of the Winnipeg, are changed into civili/"'! and Cliristianized men and women. Thcncclurth the shores are no longer S(»litary; farm-houses of settlers rise at short intervals for thirty miles to Fort Garry, the capital of the region named, in blue books, As- sinniboia. It is the head-quarters of tlu; fur trade of North America at present, and must bo hereaitcr GREAT PACIFIC RAILROAD. 229 the central depot of a vast agricultural temtory ; where are already substantial stone clmrches, a col- le?e, a see-house for the Bishop of Rupert's Land, poups of commodious dwelling-houses, tho limestone bastions and turrets of a regular fortification, and the confluence of two superb streams, tho Assinni- boino and Red River." The subject of forming a direct communication irora tho Atlantic to the Pacific, through British Amorica, is ono of such immense importance, not to the colonies only, but to the world at large, that it demands special notice in tho present volume. W'eliave already seen that it occupied tlio flioughts of La Salle, and prompted many of his advoiitnrous enterprises. Patriotic and energetic men have kept this great work in view ever since. Tlio Government of the United States lias, for some 5'ears past, Um pusliing forward tho Great I'acific Railroad with an energy which even tho great war has not entirely suspended. And the Canadians liave zeal- ously devoted themselves to the enterprise, in the hope tliat, whatever may be done hj tlie neigh- bouring Republic, they may have a line running ihiouj:;li British territory, wliich sliall not only de- velop their own internal traffic and productions, but forai a great liighway between tlio two oceans, over wliith the commerce of Europe and Asia may pass to and fro. Tho remainder of tlie present diapter will lie devoted to a brief narrative of what lias been (lone, and what is now in co-'templation, towards the actouiplishment of this great work. It will be remembered that already a very largo iortion of that part of the lino which extends from u 1 '<. I 1^1 ■I 1 f I % l\f\ I I • \ 1 g'^.'f % 1 ; M 1 \ i i ii M ? h 4 } ) 230 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. Halifax, Nova Scotia, to the extreme \>est of the Peninsula of Upper Canada, is completed. The main line will be continued, either froui Ottawa or Barrie, or some intermediate point. Witli that object in view the country in the proposed dircctiijn is now being settled, while surveys are in pronesj along the entire length of the north shores of Lakes Huron and Superior. Having, however, a fine ^-iivv communication for the greater part of the year, li'um CoUingwood, on the shore of the Georgian Bay, to Thunder Bay, on the west shore of Lake Superior, the portion of the line along the shores of the twu great lakes will probably be the last completed. Undoubtedly the most important portion, and that which would the soonest prove remunerative, is tlie line between Lake Superior and the Hod liiver Settlement. Yet even that must be a work of timu. The territory must first be opened up by means of a common road, or by a combination of road, tramway, steam-boat, and canoe navigation, by lake and river. A plan with this object in view has been suggested by IMr. Sandford Fleming, an engineer of liii^h standing in Canada, who came over to Enghiii!, deputed by the people of Red Eiver, to explain their position, and to plead their cause with the British Government and the nation at large. His plan em- braces the whole line from the settled distriets uf Canada to British Columbia. He suggests that, in the first instance, a grand trunk road should Le formed through the districts to be opened up. T!iis he calls a "territorial road," and advises that it should invariably bo constructed with easy tiuvus, rMl GREAT PACinO RAILHOAD. 231 I U i and on the most available ground for railway service. Territorial road is the name given in Canada to the irst rough cutting through the forest to a now dis- trict. Tlie trees are cleared away, and it is made passable for waggons ; it is simply an earth road. The direction of this road is to be guided by the aJantabiHty of the country for settlement, so that a population may be secured througliout its whole length. Now, as in constructing a railway, we have —1st, Formation level ; 2nd, The ballast ; 3rd, The permanent way ; so, in the territorial road, we have — 1st, Au earth road, corresponding with the formation level; 2nd, A gravel or stone road, corresponding with the road bed ; 3rd, A railway. Instead of the mixed mode of interconamunication by land and water, Mr. Fleming advocates the forma- tion of a territorial or earth road to the north of Dog Lake, liainy Lake, and the Lake of the Woods, i<) the lied River settlements from Lake Superior. Thus no capital wiU be lost. All bridges, etc., should be couatructed of a substantial character, with the tinal ol)ject in view. From the territorial road, what are called ''colonization roads," should branch otl', or rather bo marked out, to districts especially suited to settlement. They in time may be converted into <^(jod gravel, or macadamized roads. ThirtUy, he suggests "concession roads;" these are lines of least importance, designed simply to give access to farm lots from the leading lines. Couces- siun roads might be laid out generally across the colouization roads, and between the several blocks into which townships are usually subdivided. The advantages of the plan are numerous, " as all the 232 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. H • m i roads in every section of the country along tho lino of the intended railway would connect, through the colonization roads, directly with tho station, the traffic would centre at these points, and at thesi points would railway crossings by public roails alone be required. The farm lots being laid out subse- quent to the location of the road, no private or farm crossings would be required, and a great oxp(?nsi' saved in bridges, land crossings, cattle giiurds, unil gates, none of whicli would be required, as tlio lai-rn- would be wholly on one side or other of tlio line." He advises, also, that on each side of tho lino a brDfid belt of forest should be kept standing, and that, where there is no bolt, trees should at once bo planted, the object of which is to arrest the snow-driits on the outer-side. Tho line being thus kept clear froui drifted snow, a liglit plough would easily overcome* any impediment the fallen snow might oUor. He remarks that, in Canada, where railways pass through forests, the snow seldom interferes with tlio regular running of trains. It is only in open sections that the snow-drifts become so heavy that they cannot be moved without manual labour. lie calculates that to supply sleepers, cross-trees, etc., .300 acres per mile is required, and that a belt extending a (piartev of a mile bej-ond each side of the line of roa I 'ml i - 'V mm ( I si ^'Wrnni v,^ 234 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. ments or posts at intervals, along its whole length, sav twenty-five miles apart. As soon as the best lint! of road has been determined, spots for these settlements should be selected, where the fertility of tlie .soil, the neighbourhood to some navigable river or lake, or a forest, or some other cause, makes a settle- ment desirable. In the first instance, posts, such as Russia has long maintained across her vast dominions in Europe and Asia, would alone be recpiireil. In some districts it might be necessary to build furts something like those of the Hudson's Bay Company, but no difficulties with the Indians need be ap])i\'- hended, if, in the first instance; they are pr()[)eily treated with. Generally it would only be neces- sary to lay out townships at the required distances. Certain lots would be reserved for government build- ings, churches, schools, etc. The rest would (juickly be taken by inn-keepers, stage-waggon contractors, coach and cart makers, blacksmiths, saddlers, carpen- ters, coopers, store-keepers, butchers, bakers, gar- deners, and men of otlier callings usually collected in a settlement on a colonial high road. Free grants should in the first instance be made of such lots to per- sons of the callings and trades most re(piired ; this might be done according to a scale drawn up and published. Thus ** the first two carpenters, one wheelwright, one saddler, three gardeners, six farmers, one baker, one butcher, etc., who apply at such a township will receive a free gi'ant of ac res of land and a town lot under such and such regula- tions." One of these regulations should be that they follow their proper trado for a year or two years, and build a residence, before obtaining title-deeds. LOCATION OF POSTS. 235 A small body of police, selected pensioners, bound to perform military duty, mij^ht bo placed at each post, and au officer of character to act as uiaj^istrate. They ■would render good service in improving the road, aiding travellers in crossing rivers, and other similar duties. Fur the gi*eater part of the distance no territorial road will bo required at lirst, as the country is already passable for waggons from the Lake of tho Woods to the Rocky Mountains, 1)00 miles, and directly the surveyors have located tho road, tho posts or settlements may be commenced. Tho first portion of 400 miles would re(|uire longer time, as trees have to be cut down, inequalities levelled, and bridges thrown acrors streams, ^'inety miles of it the inhabitants of Eed River will perform ; and the rest has the advantage of vicinity to Lake Superior, and commencing from that end will quickly be pushed westward. There will be about 2() posts in tlio first portion, and 40 in the second, and supposing that it would be necessary to have 30 persons at each post, 1,800 persons would settle up the whole line, and if conveyed to the ground in the spring, would be well housed with a store of provisions for tho winter. In the very first winter the road would become far more practicable for travellers than heretofore. With regard to provisions, there t an bo no doubt, from what has already been shown, that directly the farmers of Red River know that the proposed arrangement has been made, they will ^ako cure to sow an ample supply of wheat, and other grain, while speculators will introduce cattle, horses, and sliocp from the States. Superior breeds might bo Iff 1 1 ,1 i ■ i ' f I ■} ! ^ ': 1 ',V' 'A !» s;' '■ ! M ill ii I 1 |i||i|l^ 236 BRITTSH NORTH AMERICA. procured from England or Canada; the Hudson's Bay Company would supply some horses, and (jlliors might be purchased from the Indians. Tlio Indians, when they find that thoy can get good prices for tliart inns of ^cod size will be required. Farms must be attached to them to supply provisions, and tradesmen and artisans will flock to them. The settlement of this line of road, if its advan- tages were properly understood, would, probably, be as rapid as that of any district in the British possessions, wonderful as the progress of many of tiiem has been. ?ii ! ■ r 11 'MmIJ i n • » f CHArTEE XII. THE FUR TRADE AND THE HUDSON'S BAY COMrANY. The fiir-bearing animals of British North America— The bpnrer— The marten— The bear and wolf— The wolvereen— The racoon— Unpm of the fur trade— French Fur Company — The Hudson's Bay Company— Bitter rivalry between them— The North-west Company — Des'ily feuiis lirtween the emplayen of the two companies— Lord Selkirk— Coalition of the two companies — Termination of the charter. t I i 11. if 5 iS'^ ■,r 1 Ml. 1 i » Although the voyages of the early English navi- gators were unsuccessful as to their chief object of discovering a North-west Passage, the results were most important. They laid open the great extent of the Hudson's Bay Territory, and imparted some idea of the valuable furred animals by which its shores were tenanted. Amongst the principal (jf these may be mentioned the black bear, racoon, badger, marten, ermine, and four or five other mcnibcrs of the weasel tribe, the fox, the polar and brown lynxes, the beaver, the musk-rat, the deer, the elk, the hare and the rabbit, the wolf and the otter. "The beaver is the main staple of the fur trade, not owing to the value of the skin, which, in propor- tion to its size, is inferior to that of the marten and sea-otter, but from its abundance, and the largo and sure demand for it in the hat manufacture. It ap- pears to be indigenous in all the northern parts of FUR-BEARIXO ANIMALS. 239 :iiis continent, tlioiigh in the settled countries, and ev.n tlioso open to private hunters, it is neariy (Xterrainated. There are two modes of taking it ; one by traps, which is the easit-.st, and generally fialowcd by 8inj:;le ndvonturers ; tlie other by what ;s termed trenching. On a beaver-house being dis- (overed, all the canals heading from it are stopped up; then, with an instrument called the ice-chisel, i; is broken into, and the old animals speared. The \ MinToatlv inferior in value. The fox also in this coiiutry ull'onU n few beautiful specimens, especially tlioso of tlio black or silver kind, which are the most vulua})lo df any, but found in very small numbers, while the red and speckled are not much prized. Mr. Siiiijisr)!! eon- firms Mr. Wilson's opinion, that these arc all casual varieties of one species, the diflferont c(jlours being often produced in the same litter. " The mus«|uash, or musk-rat, is found tliroui^hoiit the continent, but especially in the vicinity of llud- son's Bay ; and though the skin does not bear a high price, the vast number taken renders it an article of some importance. It is a species of diminutive beaver, building similar houses, and captui'ed in tho same manner. The fur is used in the manufacture of inferior hats. "The bear and the wolf form also profitable olijeets of hunting, and are killed chioliy by moans of the fowling-piece. For the wolf, spring-guns are inuili used, having a cord attached to them, to which the bait is fastened ; when the wolf seizes it, the strinj; pulls tho trigger, and the ball is discharged. These animals, ho .vever, being extremely sagacious, have been known to cut the cord, and carry off the bait without sustaining injury. The hide of the wulf is considered peculiarly fitted for knapsacks and similar pui'poses, fox which it is much employed in Germany. " Bear skins arc much used in tho nortlicrn coun- tries of Europe, both for warmth and oriiainent, particidarly on the outside of carriages. Tho black bear {Vrsus niger Americanus) is well known in INDIAN IlEVEllENCE FOR DEARS. 241 Cinadft, and is found wherever wooded districts cutur, northward to the slioros of the Arctic Sea, viutiiward us far as Carolina, and westward across ic continont to the shores of the Pacific Ocean. Althou.L^h this species is the least carnivorous of its land, vt't Dr. Richardson informs us that its strength .nil utility, combined with its great tenacity of life, r>'uder an attack upon it very liazardous, and its [ursuit lias always been considered by the rude in- habitaiits of the northern regions as a matter of the hi;,'ht'st importance. They previously propitiate the wliole race of bears by sundry ceremonies, and when an individual is slain, they treat it with the utmost resiiect, address it as a near relation, and offer it a pipe to smoke. This veneration has no doubt arisen Irum their admiration of the skill and pertinacity ^tli which Bruin defends himself, and it is both lurious and interesting to observe how the same feeling is exhibited by various tribes of people, "peaking different languages, and inhabiting sepa- mte countries."* .\lexander Henry, who travelled in Canada and the adjoining territories in the years 17G0-76, has furnished us with some valuable and curious remarks regarding the black bear of the New World. Wliile on the banks of Lake Michigan, in the month of •January, he observed the trunk of an enormous pine tree much torn, as if by the claws of a bear ascending and descending. He next noticed a largo opening ill the upper portion, near which the smaller branches were broken off. It was agreed that all his re- tainers should assemble next morning, to assist in * " Fauna Boreali-Americana," part I., p. 17. R \ ■ ] 'I'l } i « ;^ \ i^^:'u 1 ■ \^' ! 5 ■ ' I: i ■ i ww t ow - 5 •' "■■I II I wii^MP^qRaMi^ppp -I tl'= ' i i 1 f 'f i ^ ! ■ i i ■ '*"* 1 i: . ' ^ 242 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. cuttinf? down the tree, as from the absence of tracks upon the surrounding snow, it was prusuiiKd that a bear had for some time lain coneeah'd witliin. The tree measured 18 ftH^t in circumference. Tlicir axfs being very light, they toiled all day, botli men an four men could carry. In all, the carcass must liave exceeded oOO 11 )s. weight. As soon as they roacho'l the lodge the head was adorned witli various ti'inkt't> and laid upon a scaffold, with a large (pumtityof tobacco near the nose ; and sundry other cereuioiiies were gone through iu the course of the eusiung ^m WOLVEREEN — RACOON. 243 iorniiigr, after whicli they made a feast of tho Tho wolvereen of America is described by Dr. FJ-liardsou as a carnivorous animal, which ft^ods (iiietiy ujion tlie carcasses of beasts that have been killed by accident. It possesses ^eat stren) of the trade by land and sea, from the rivor .St. Lawrence to the Arctic Circle and the Fro/en Ocean. Other associations were formed in Canada itself, and, under similar grants, continued to trade as far as the Saskatchewan, 2,000 miles west of their settloil dis- tricts, till the cession of the province to the Briti.^h Crown in 170o. Meantime, forty-one years after the formation of Cardinal Hichelieu's company, that i.s in the year 10(58, a party of English tradcrss, under the guidance of two Frencli officers who had (piari'elled with tlieir own government, founded a factory ou the south shore of Hudson's Bay. This led on thiir return to tlie incorporation of the adventurers into the Hudson's Bay Company, by a charter li'om Ivinj; Chai'les II., dated 2nd May, 1CG9. Hudson's bay company. 245 There were tlius two rival companies, soon to enter [into disastrous and sanguinary contiiet with each ,)'Jier. The English charter grants '' all those coun- rleji. in wliatevcr latitude tliey may lie, whose waters ioff into Hudson's Ba}'," or " to which thoy could oltain access by land or water out of Hudson's Ilav,'' hut, "which were not already actually pos- i-ssed by the subjects of any other Christian prince T state." No sooner liad the EngHsh, who were :aturiilly looked upon as interloi)ors by tlie Frencli, .^tiiblished their posts, than a force was sent from '.'anada to drive them out. Tliis led to reprisals, and hostilities did not termi- nate till the treaty of Ilyswici in 1()97, by wliich the claims of the French to the greater part of Hudson's Ba» were definitively acknowledged ; and up to the titaty of Utrecht in 1714, they enjoyed undisturbed possession of nearly the whole of the trade of the disputed territory. We liear little of the English company at this time. It is well known that, by the wmnidn law of England, a charter from the Crown (onf( rring a monopoly of trade without the sancticm 'if Turliament is illegal and void, and as this was !;it' character of the grant of Charles ii., the company f'lund it impossible to exclude interlopers from the "iimtries over which the charter professed to extend, r U> provide any remedy against its repeated in- !:iii?, oii" sterling livtm the French. In 1720, their circuni- stances w<>re so far inqirovod, that the}' again trolij.^l their capital stock, with oidy a call of ten per nr-*. from the proprietors, on which they paid dividi iil^ averaging nine per cent, for many years ; hlinwinir profits on the originally subscribed capital st''.-: actually paid up of between sixty and seventy [ir cent, per annum, from the years KiOO to ISDO: v: during a period of 110 years. By the cession of Canada to Great Britain in IT*'.', lU I* NORTH-WEST COMPANY. 247 the Fronfli traders became British subjects, and they, joined by others, sjieedily extended their traffic north and west. A number of these independent traders formed, in 1783, tlie celebrated North-west Company of Mtmtroal. Eocriiited by spirited young men, chiefly from Scotland, they pushed their way toward Hudson's Bay, and soon found themselves involved in a fierce and bitter contest with the agents of the Hudson's Bay Company, which continued for many vears with a bitterness and fierceness which was not only utterly at variance with the spirit of Christianity, but which was disgraceful to those who had been educated with the advantages which civilization could bestow. Young men who had been brought up in England or Scotland, in the same town or the same school, engaged themselves as clerks to the rival companies. The one became a servant of the Hu..son's Bay Company, the other of the North- west Company. Entering into the spirit of their superiors, they became deadly enemies, and many thus fell, shot down by bullets aimed by the hands of fell(jw-countr}Tnen, as they were traversing the territory towards their appointed stations. When one party discovered that supplies were on the way to their rival's posts, an expedition was organized to attack them, sometimes led on by a factor or clerk, or by one of the Frencli Canadians in their employ. •Sometimes a baud of Indians were instigat<>d to make the attack, and supplied with arms and ammunition for tlio })urpose. If the latter were victorious, the white men's scalps were brouglit l,;i<'k as trojdiies of victorv. Tilt' Indian lumters of oihj party were «. L *■' eucuuraged to attack those of tho other, and thus - • •] itt w la " r ■ ■ r ' r :■ ■ \ \ ■ i i ': 1 \ i V li^ I « I 'H 248 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. Si! ; • •■ 1 1 1 ■ feuds sprang up among those who had hitherto lipen at peace, wliich tended much to that rapid detivase of the native tribes which has continued since tlie commencement of this century. Every temptation which could be held out was employed by one party to draw away the hunters em2)loyed by tlieir opponents, and to gain tiioni foi themselves. Fire-water was found to bo a mofit attractive bribe, and young men of the rank of factors professing to be Christians did not Kcriiple to enter into nominal matrimonial alliances with th" daughters of chiefs, for the sake of securing the tribe to their interest. The struggles between the representatives of the competing companies rose to such a pitch that they resembled the conllicts of hostile nations, rather than the rivalries of hostile traders. Not a few i>erished, either in actual fighting, or from the privations they endured by the destruc- tion of their posts, with the stores laid up in them. Others were taken prisoners, and treated with ex- treme severity by their captors. It will surprise English readers to learn tliat such things have taken place in British territories, amongst British subjects, since the commencement of the ju'esent century. To explain it, we must rttratr the history of the companies. The Hudson's Bay Comi)any, as it then existed, engaged all its servants on tixod salaries, and employed, as its boatmen. people from tlio Orkney Islands, steady, trustworth} fellows, but without zoal or enterprise. The Nortli- west Company, on the contrary, by their arranirc- ments, created an identity of interest, and a spirit of emulation among all they employed. They were ENTERPRISE OF LORD SELKIRK. 249 promoted aocording to their zeal and talents, and each individual was led to expect that his election to the proprietaiy depended on his own exertions. Courage was an indispenjiable qualification, not merely for the casual encounters with Indians, hut to intimidate any competitor in trade with whom ho min;'ht happen to come into collision. They employed also, as canoe- men, French Canadians, known as voyngeurs, brought up frura their childliood to the calling which had been followed by their fathers and grandfathers, and whoso skill in managing canoes, capability of endur- ing hardships, and facility of adapting themselves to the habits and jieculiarities of tlie various tribes, renflcred them infinitely more popular with tlio Indians than were the matter-of-fact, unbending Oriv'ncymen. At length the eyes of the directors of the ITud- pon's Bay Company were opened to their position by the great decrease of their dividends.* They attempted, on the strength of their charter, to lay (laini not only to the territory round Hudson's Bay, but also to the distant Saskatchewan, Red Piivor, and other streams falling into Lake Winni- peg. Tliis territorial claim, unsupported by physical force, was set at defiance by their rivals, and they would jirobably have been driven from tlie fl(dd, had lint Lord Selkirk come to their support. Tlmt ener- getic nobleman had conceived, as wo have seen,f • Tlie Interests of the Hudson's Bay Company siifTcred so mnch that between 18(M) and ISJI their dividends wore lor the first eight years reiuii'd to four per cent , during tlie next six years (hey couhi pny no dividend at all, un J for the remaining ei^jht years they could only pay four percent. t See chapter X., p. 193. linn I -1 < i I ii IVIP i,! ^ fV ' 1 Si i . ; j L. 1 , ! i i !■ t i ' r ; « J i tiJ i !■ ■ J 2-0 BRITISH NORTir AMERICA. the idea of cstaLliHliing a colony on the Pifd Piivfr. The Roil was fertile, the climate tomi^erato ; ami wtn' it not for its p'eat distance from civilization, it was admirably cal'-ulated for a now settlement. It was, liowovor, Iho ^reat depot of the North-v,-est Companv for making pommican, the principal article of food used by tlieir canoe-men in voya^inj?. Sliould tho colony snccoed, it would gradually cut oiFthe l)uiialo, from which the pemmican is made, and compel the company to import from Canada, at an enormous expense, whatever provisions they required. From their first ari'ival, the new colonists were treated with tho most systematic opposition and resistance by the servants of the North-west Company, and were re- peatedly driven away ii'om the ground assigned to them. Lord Selkirk, on hearing this, purchased a number of shares in tlie Hudson's ]?ay Company, of whii h he became an active proprietor, and adopted retuliatorv measures, li-y high bribes he won over some men of education and experience from the North-west Com- pany, gave double the prices paid by his opponents for goods, and employed French Canadians as b(jat- men. Ilis plans were so far successful that ho was encouraged to send out several large bodios of emigrants, who built a fort, and permanently estali- • lished themselves, though not without undergoini: the most severe hardships. Am(»ng the most artive of the traders won over from the North-west (Joni- pany was a Mr. Colin Robertson, who had oftfii risked his own life, both among white men ami Indians, to advance the interests of his establi'^h- meut ; and, having a perfect knowledge of the EXTEXDET) OrEKATTOXS OF COirPAXY. 2.-)l interior, Lord Selkirk entrusted him witli its chief maiuiLcement. The invijjforatinf^ spirit wliicli had heon infused into tlio liitlierto cautious rouncils of tlio Hudson's l)iiv Company, by tlie darin;^ policy of Lord Selkirk and Mr. Robertson, sorm ])ecame manifest. Tho latter was acquainted with tho stron^^liolds and weak points of his opponents ; and knowing that miuli depended on the first imi)ression made on the Indians, he determined to push for Athal)asca, the p-eat northern department of tho North-west, and the most productive in beaver. No rival trader had ever before ventured to encroach on Athabasca. Mr. llobertson was very successfid. The liij^h prices ho olfered for their furs seduced the natives from their allej^^ianco to their (dd master, and hundreds camf» crowding to his standard.* Ho was joined by a stronj^ force led by Mr. Clark, another old North-west trader who had been en<^aged by Lord Selkirk, and who })ecamo a }^eat favourite witli the Chippeways. This success of their rivals still further exasperated the traders of the North- west Company, aiul made them ready for any act of violence. It is very evid«^nt that Lor<• described occurred. It is certain that a lavc mounted party of the Nortli-west Company's ser- vants, mostly half-breeds, led by a Mr. Alcxaiidtr Frasor, one of their factors, appeared in the ncin^li- bourhood of the Selkirk settlement, tlion uiidir charge of Captain Semple, styled the govonvir. Whetlier Governor Semple believed that the Xortli- westers were coming to attack him is uncertain; but, collecting tw(mty-six well-armed men, with a field-piece, he went out to meet them. Some angry words ensued between one of the half-breeds and the governor, when it is asserted that ho gave tlio order to his followers to fire. If so, two only cbej'ed, and instantly Mr. Fraser's party o])en(d a deadly fire on Governor Semple's people. lie, witii five officers and the greater part of his men, it 11 desperately wounded by the unerring rifles of llic wild hunters of the west. The survivors retreated ; but only four effected their escape. Of tlie halt- breeds, one was killed, and another wounded, lu triumph Mr. Fraser and his followers rode oil' ^itli their prisoners, leaving their slaughtered lellow- countrymen on the ground. Such was the state of affairs which avarice and unbridled passions, utterly beyond all legal control, RUINOUS P'VALSlIir. 2'>3 liafl brought about in the territory. "In fin:t, tho jijiirit of rivahy haoth parties beeamo in turn tlio most reckless de8iiera(h)es. Force was tlie only tribunal to wliich they appealed, and arms tho only argument. Tiie peaeo with tho I'liited States had thrown idlo in ( 'anada a number of soldiers whose regiments liad Ijeen disbanded. Among them was De Memvm's regiment, u[»ward8 of two hundred of whom were engaged by Lord Selkirk to overawe the North-westers. On liearing, however, of the fato of tlio eoh)nists o* lied Kiver, he did not proeeed beyond Fort William, but after establishing some of them on the Ijanks of tho Kaininistiquia, he went back to Canada to represent to tlio governor-general tho mode in wliieh his Majesty's subjects were murdering each other. It was not, however, till tho spring of 1817 that the (iovernment commissioners arrived to investigato tho reported outrages. Their incjuiries served to bring to light the dreadful state of things in the North-west territory; but the perpetrators of the outrage do not appear to have received any punish- mout, and they almost all died violent deaths. Mr. Friiser was killed in a bniwl in l*aris in 182*J, and of the rest, some were drowned in rapids, others were shot by Indians, killed in the chase, or starved to (Itiith. There was, alter this, less actual violence ; hut tho spirit of competition gained such a height, that the prices given to tho Indians for furs, after deducting charges, exceeded their value to tho com- panies. This ruinous rivalship must in tho end have proved fatal to both parties, had not some of tho - i» i I « ■^1 I !i i ■ I i m' h H ) i 1 2')4 BRITISH NOllTII AMERICA. propriotora proposod a co.'ilition, tlie pvi'linilnarics of which wvTQ signed in liondon, March, isJl, an,! confirmed at Fort "William )»y tho partners iu the July following — the new body assuming th»> title of tho IJud8(m's liay Company. It numbcrtMl among its members many men of wealth und inliuenco besides Lord ISelkirk, and succeeded i'l obtaining a license to trado for twenty-one years over the territory to the west of the llocky JMoiin- ttilns, part of which was known as New ('ul»'- donia. It was subsecjuently extended ])y a set* mil license to 1859 ; but this charter, on its expirution, was not renewed, and great part of the territory was erected into a crown colony, under the title of British Columbia. The company had also obtained a charter for Vancouver's Island, on condition of promoting its colonization ; but it being evident tliut they wore unable or unwilling to do this, the license was withdra\^^l, compensation being made to them for the amount they had expended in the attemjiit, amounting in all to £100,000. The cai)ital of the company was, according to tlie official statement laid before the select committee of the House of Commons in IHoO, £1,26,5,067 I'Js. -Id. The distribution of profits to the shareholders, frum 1847 to 1S.5G inclusive, ranged from 10 to 20 ]>er cent., and the market value of the stock during the same period, ranged from 200 to 225 per cent. ( >f 298 proprietors, of M'liich the company consisted in 18-30, 190 had purchased their stock at fi'om 220 tu 240 per cent.-'^ * When the property of the Tludaon's Hay Company changed hauJs ia 1863 the proprietors received iiOO per share. OOVEUN'MENT OP COMPANY. 2.5.3 i ! ! I Their trado is tilinost oxclusively in furp, small .^uaiititios only of oil, dried and suited lish, I'uuthorH, ijuills, etc., bein}^ sent to England. Kxcopt a.» a jirulital)le investiiiunt lor u few English bhareiioldurs, the commcrco of tho vast ro^ions under the sway of the company was alt()jj;;ether insignificant. The whole i tho trade to tho Hudson's Bay territory employs, i\i it (lid a century ago, two or three .small ships an- nually, with a low armeil steamers and .sailing vessels, uu the north- west eoa.st, 'o trade witii the treacherous —because often deceived — natives of those regions. According to Mr. Simpson, one of their partners, " The entire value of all the furs and other articles traded by tho company from the Indians in all its territories and possessions, averaged about £200,000 per annum. In one year it anumnted to £211,000, and tlie net prolits for that year were declared at i'll'j,oo;j." Tlu) allair.s of tho company were maimged by a ' ; I f i it I Ii 256 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. difforont ui^tiicis lu the territorj', nnd a certain num- ber of them assembled every year at Nomvay I loiiso, for the northern dej)artment, generally a)K»ut tho inidtllo of June, to meet the governor, and transad business. t^even chief factors with the Lrovcriiur formed a (quorum, but if a sufHcient nuinhcr ot' tli- higher rank of officers were not present, a (juuruiu was established })y tlie admission of chief traders. The territories in which they traded were dividiil into five departments, these again into tliirty-tln-cc districts, in wliich there W(>ro altogether 1.52 posts. Of these only twenty-four were in, or on the Ijordns of, tho Fertile Belt. They were as follows: — l.'.d Eiver, six ; Swan River, six ; Cumberland, threo ; Saskatchewan, nine. These twenty-four posts, thou^di belonging to districts which will soon bo settled, will not themselves be occupied by settlers for many years to come. The price at wliich furs were bartered, was. through tho ignorance of their value on tho part of the Indians, and the complete monopoly of the trsule possessed by the company, out of all proportion to the market value of the skins in England. "Tho prices paid to the Indians for their furs," says Mr. Simpson, ''are in general exceedingly small. Throughout the whole of the protected territories, the value of the goods bartered for furs is certaiidy imder one-twentieth of tho value of those fiu's in England/' For instance, a gun, costing 22s , sold for twenty beaver skins, valued iit £o2 lOs. ; a gill of powder, costing l.jd., for one beaver skin, £1 V2s. Od.; but a scalping knife, whieh cost -Id., likewise sold fur one beaver skin, as did a dozen brass buttons, a I'll I 1! TRADING WITH INDIANS. 257 paper-mounted mirror, 1 rz. of vermilion, 6 ozs. of to'iacco, and a common horn comb. A blanket was (^ilculiited at ton times the value of these articles, and a copper kettle at sixteen times. An axe sold f,r three skins, aid a iilo for two, as did a tinder- lox and burniiig-^hiss. A pair oi' trouwcrs sold for nine skins, value £14 I'Js. (Ul The beaver skin was :he usual standard of value, md was the most valua- 'io. Oilier skins were bartered at proportioiuite rates. The price set upon spirits is not m»>ntioned ; but that i!iust have been tolerably hi<;li, for it is well known how readily the Indian will part m ith everythinj^ he [Kisscjises for the sake of the aeenrsed lire-water. The tradinj^ posts are generally situated on the 'anks of a navijj:a])lo river, or on some spot con- ■Mutly passed by Indians. They are all f(»rti(ied with stockades suihcient to resist an attack of the Iiuliims, and contain the dwcllin|»]i«Ml with stores by boats, whi* h came ovt^ a year either from Vork Factory or Fort William. TJicir chief pro- vision consisted either of lish or ])t>mmican, with tl'iur. and such roots and veg(-tables as they chose to uT'»\v, Mliile Ijeef and mnttoii were not unknown to tlioso in the more soutliern districts. In their trjiding transactimis with the Eed Men Mioncy was unknown; every article was barten^d. ibe Indians were allowed, and even encouraged, to ^'('t into debt, so that a more complete control might ^•e gained over them. The careless Indian often wade no preparation for the coming winter, and he ! i i 1 ■: f ' 1 ■i i. il: i i i^^ ^ M' 11^1 258 BRITISH NOATH AMERICA. was then compelled, with his family, to starve, or tu continue his search for the fnr-boaring animals with which alone ho could obtain provisions at the noij^'h- bouring fort. Some of the officers of tlio dtnipiiny were Christian men, and desired the amelioration of the natives ; but the system was radically bad : thov could not give the Indians better prices for their skins, or useful articles instead of baubles ; tluy could not urge them to settle down, to cultivate tlio soil, to build huts, or adopt civilized customs. Thf^ir dutv to their employers was to keep them hunters, and as hunters it was hard for them to become Christians- impossible to adopt the customs of civilization. May the rec^ent change in the government of tlie territory usher in the dawn of brighter days for settlers, traders, and hunters throughout those vast regions! 'W » i i >l ■ i BUFFALOES AXD BUFFALO HUNTING. ,« I I ^j ''■ i CHAPTER XIII V - ■ * Vilue of the hiiffulo to tho Indians — Mode of hunting it— Numbers killed— Rufl'alo pound— Fondness of the buffalo cow for her calf— Perilous natore of the hunt. The animal known throughout North America as the buffalo is, in reality, the bison [JJos Americanus). He is a huge, ferocious-looking creature, with an oblong hump over the shoulders, and is covered «th long, shaggy, but fine hair. His hide is valu- able, and is extensively used for cloaks, coats, rugs, and bed coverings. The skins are known in the trade as buffalo robes. The horns are manufactured into powder-flasks, and are useful in a variety of wav8. The flesh of the bull is rather coarser grained than that of the domestic ox, but in tenderness and llavour is superior. That of the female is by far tho ])est. The hump, especially, is deservedly cele- t)rated for its richness and delicacy. The flesh forms tho cliief food of the native tribes inhabiting the prairies, as well as of tho voyageurs, hunters, and traders of the Hudson's Bay Company. It is pre- pared for keeping by being cut into thin slices and ilried in tho sun. It is then pounded between two stones till tho fibres separate, and the melted fat of the animal being poured on it, it is pressed tightly into 1 i p^« ) i i 260 BUITISII NORTH AMERICA. bags made of the skin, about fii'ty pounds in earli In thi8 Ktato it will keep fur months, and even yours, exposed to every variety of temptTature. In this state it is called pemuiican, or pemmi-kon— ;;(«>w,/,/ signifying meat, and kon fut. Ono pound of ptin- mican is considered ei^ual to four pounds of urdiuarv meat. NumborlefiS are the uses to wliieh the Indian put< the bison. His lodge, or tent, is covered with th- skins neatly fastened together. lie is clothcil in them, and his couch, saddle, bridle, and sb'in;h, ar.' made of them. The fibres serve him for hi.s thread and strings for his Ijow. Tlio liner bones he usus tor needles, the larger for hammers, chisels, and oth bow. With the hoof ho makes glue to strengtlicn ]il< bow, and for other puri)oses. The dung s<'rvcs him for fuel, and the bladder for carrying water. Its tlcsh, made into pemmican, is his chief article of tradr with the whites, from whom ho obtains nuiuGrcas articles he re(j[iures, and also unhappily the (h'stnu- tive fire-water. lie knows full well tliat tliis will bring him to an early grave, but his reply is, The bufi'alo is disappearing, and when that is goii'j, uii what shall we subsist? Notwithstanding tlio wholesale slaughter oi th<^ animal by the Indians, the ])ison still exists in va>t herds throughout tlie ^^hole of the Ft^rtile Dt'lf, and is found in most parts of British T'entral North America. It passes not only the summer, but the winter, as far north as Lake Athabasca. These animals roam in large herds, and taho so regular a course, that old hunters can calculate to a BUFFALO HUNTING. 2G1 I lioety wliere they are to l>o found, imloss they have been turned aside by prairie liros; they then seek a rew path, in search of food. No slauj^hter whicli :iit' hunters can make upon them -will hiad tliem to ibango tlio direction in whicli they are goinj:^. The irrt.'ater number of half-breeds residing at lied Kiver lepend almost entirely on the buffalo, both for their n the plains till the 20t.h of August. They often take their wives and families with them, each being provided with a cart, drawn by a horse or an ox— - the carts carrying the tents, provisions, and cortain stores and tools. In one j^arty are sometimes uhsciiibled from 800 to 1,500 hunters, with a like Tf 1> * 1^ .'i M ' t : I 262 BRITISn NORTH AilERICA. number of carts and horses, and some liundrf.] oxen and dogs. Two or thrco hundred C>jil)l.f\viiv Indians generally accompany sudi a party, fur the sake of the suporab'mdant moat, and in the lidpo of killing some of their hereditary enemies, the Sioux. Tlio greatest order and rcgidarity prevails. As soon as they have fairly started, a council is held, and a leader or president is selected, to -wliosi' commands all promiso implicit ohetlience. IK- tlien selects a certain number of captains, wlio a})poir.t constables, tiio duty of these being to see thut ail regulations regarding the hunt arc proi)orly earrixl out. Guides also are selected, and each of them i>* supplied with a flag. Each guide takes the kad for a day in turn. Tho infringement of rules is punished with lines. No man nmy pass a guide oii duty. No himter can return home withuat leave. No one can leave tho camp shoidd any animal v: property, sujiposed to be stolen, be missing. Fin- also must bo extinguished every morning wlien tli- camp breaks up. The captains can order any eart to be removed and placed in tho position they thir.k necessary for tho pul)lic safety, but ha\'e to return i' in tho morning. As there is a deadly feud betweo: the Sioux and half-breeds, these precautions a: very necessary. From Fort Garry the hunting expedition proeeii!- generally in a south-westerly direction. Day altir day they travel on with few impediments over tli«' oi^en })rairie. Order and regularity prevail in tiif camp. Sometimes a priest accompanies the tx|iMh- tion, and then mass is performed every murning in the wilderness. t !. } AFPROACHINO THE HEBD. 263 The half-breeds are here seen to advantage. Descended from a long lino of hunters, they aro physically a remarkably fine race, with the vivacity and goud-humour of their French ancestors. They pt'ssess a largo amount of self-esteem, and are easily irritated, but quickly appeased. They aro brave, harily, and intelligent; and when the buffalo dis- appears, as it must ere long, they will prove a \aliiable part of tho population of the country. At length the scouts bring in word that the bulfaloes aro in siglit. Tho camp is pitched— tho women and children remaining with proper guards. The liuntcrs advance ; as tho liord is neared they [jrm in line, tho president, captains, and police in tront. Not a gun must bo tired without pormis- >ioa from tho chief. The horses seem to understand ho work to be done. It is an animating scene. i'he lung lino of hunters get within a quarter of a r.iile of tho nearest of tho bulfaloes. Tho wind Mows from the animals, wlio go on feeding, not ware of the ai)proa(!h of foes. Tho lierds in count- !'S.s numbers stretch over tlio plains far as the cyo an reach. Each hunter loads his gun, looks to his riiulng, examin(\s his saddle-girths, and fills his mouth with bullets, tliat lie may dro]) them into his :un without wadding whilf at full gallop. Tlie • klora caution the less experienced not to shoot each (ithcr. Cautiously tlicy approacli tho herd, till tho auinuds, numbering four or five thousand, perceive them, and set oil' at full speed. Away gallo[> tho toarlt'ss liunters in hot pursuit, and aro soon in the midst of them, firing right and left. As each aninud is aiiot down, the hunter who has killed it drops , 6 •I i-1 •• I :■ • ■ \ I ■ I ^ 1 ■^ • f N NUI .( i 264 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. somo article of his property to denote his prev, und then gallops on, blaughterin{^, with unoniu' aim, on either hand. For an hour or nioro tlic chase continues. Over an area of sev(>ral miles, somo six or eight hundred bulluloes are Hoiuotinifs slain. (^oinetiniea the horse of one of tlui hunttrs stumbles, and his rider is thrown. A furious 1 uli makes at the man, hut the wcll-trainid horse, quickly regaining its feet, stands quite Htill till kis master has mounted, when he nimbly springs iisid.) and sagaciously avoids the infuriated animal. "Wlitri the all'righted buil'aloes have galloped out of si^'ht. the carts come up, the robes, humps, tungufs, and part of the ilesh of the buH'aloes, are carried oil. and those left in the camp forthwith begin to niakf it into pemmican. Largo <[uantiiies of the llt>sh, however, are left to rot on the ground. A\'hcn the pemmican is made, the expedition advances to owv- take the herd, and the same scene is again enacted. Captain Blackiston computes that since IS 12, when the Hudson's Bay Company lirst commenced to trad'' to any extent in rtd»es, thero have been no lower than 115, OUO bullaloes annually kilh'd in I'ritish territory ; Avbile on the great prairies on th(> Ame- rican side, whero the trade in bull'alo robes has Leon carried on to a far greater extent, the amount annually slaughtered at the early part of the period menti(jned, 'vas iqi wards of 1,000,000, hut thi-; trade is nov; said to have decreased, cm the Mir^- souri, one-half. In 1855, on the British side, tluT'' were 20,000 robes and skins received at York Factory alone. I'robably there were not fewer than about 230,000 slaughtered the previous year. Thi;. INDIAN IIUNTEUS. 2g; illowing two pounds per lioad per diem (a vory iiboriil ullu\vanco\ would huvo served to Kustain a [vipulatioii of a 4iinrt('r of a million, whilo prubably not ;{(),0(M) benefited l»y tliis slaii^^liter. Tlu' following aeeount, altrid^od from Professor nind's report, showH the r»'tkless and almost Huicidal vay in which the buflaloort are HlauL::ht('red by tho Indians, whoso vory existence desponds on them. Tht> j)rofessor and iiis i>arty were travelling; with du'ir earts and waj?|jjons alonj^ tho banks ()f tho I ailing Kiver : — " Wo hear that a consid^-rablo body iff Crees are encamped in the neij^^hbourho<)d, and, with a view to secure a favourable reco[>tion, send ,1 messen|:;er to announce our arrival and to express ;i wish to see their chief. After a lapse of some timo wo wee about sixty (Jree horsemen (;alloi»in';; towards IS, many of them naked with tho exc<;ption of tho hroech-clolh and belt. They are accompanied by tho (liief's son, who informs us that in an hour's timo thoy will escort us to tho camp. They are about (instructing a now pound, having literally filled tho jircscnt ono with )>ullalo, and are c^ompelled to iiliandon it on account of tho stench which arises from tho putrefying bodies. We sit on the ground and smoke till thoy think it time for us to accompany tiieia to their encampment. Tho chief expresses a wisli through his son that wo should seo them entrap tlic liuli'alo in his pound, a rare opportunity few would be willing to lose. "\Vo pass through tho camp to a [)laco which tho chief's son points out, and there erect our tents. Tho W( aro still employed in omen being assi.sted in tho operation by largo numbers of dogs, each do{£ having two poles muviny: the c; imp, It ' !■ • i I', 1) , ■ I i^ H i I- ii i ■ i I, 1 t 1 I I . I :r 5, ii- 1 i^ 1 *' f M 7 j£ 1 |« 4 Ii 266 BRITISn NORTTI AMERICA. harnussod to him, on which a little load of meat, peuimican, or camp furniture is laid. After uuMiher emoko, the chiofs son asks if wo would like to seo the old Lufl'alo-pound, in whirh during tlio past week thoy have been entrappinj^ liutl'alo. Wc acct^it the oiler, and a guide leads us to a little valley thrnn;,'U a lane of branches of trees which are called ' dead men,' to the gate or traj) of the pound. A sight most horrible and disgusting breaks upon us us we ascend a hill overlooking the pound. AV'itliin a circular fence, 120 feet Itroad, constructed of the trunks of trees, laced together with withes, and braced by outside supports, lie tossed in every con- ceivable position above two hundred dead butiUlues. From old bulls to calves, animals of every descrip- tion lie huddled together in all the forced attituiks of violent death. Some lie on their backs, with eyes starting from their heads, and tongue thrust out through clotted gore. nts. Tlie odour is (»ver- powering, and millitms c>f large blue ilesli-Hies are humming and buz/ing over the putrefying bodies. After the hrst run, ten days ago, the Indians (h'ove about two hundred bufi'alo into the inclosure, and were still urging on the remainder of the herd, wlien POUNDING THE BUFFALO. 267 one wary old bull, espying a narrow crevico which bad not been closed by tlio robes of thoso outside, rhoso duty it was to conceal every orifice, made a Jasli and broke the fence ; the whole body then ran helter-Hkeltcv throujj^h the j^ap, and, dispersing ami)n<^ the hills, escaped, with the exception of eight, who were speared or t>hot with arrows as they passed in their mad career. In all, however, two iiundred and forty animals have been killed.* " From the pound two lines of trees are placed, e.xtcnding to a distance of four miles into the prairie, each tree being about lifty fe«t from ihe other, form- ing a road from one and a half to two miles in width at the entrance, gradually narrowing towards tho pound. These trees are called * dead men.* Mon are also concealed near tho trees, and when the hunters have succeeded in driving a herd into the road, they rise and shake tlieir robes, should any animals attempt to break away from it. "At tho entrance of the pound there is a strong trunk of a tree placed at about a foot from the gntund, and on the inner side an ex( avution is made sufficiently deep to prevent the buffalo innn leaping back Avhen once in the pound. As soon as the animals have taken the fatal spring, tliey begin to gallop round and round the ring fonce, looking for a chance of escape, but with tlie utmost silence men, women, and children hold their robes before every orifice unril the whole herd is brought in. They then climb to the top of tho fence, and with the hunters, who have followed closelv in the rear of tho * The mcxle of pounding bulTuloefl is vtry ■imiiar to Xh&i by irhich m'A<& elepLauts ar* oaught in Ceylon. f •> I ' ■: ) i ., ; ! i U T IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) i 1.0 1.25 ■so 1^ I2l5 1^ 12.2 us IS, ■yuu U 11.6 6" -» PhotDgraphic Sciences Corporation i\ #^ rij^^ ;\ \ [v ^-U 6^ '<^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 872-4503 <. ■^ T i ■ ■■• ' \ 1 ■ - -- ,1 . f»t . ) ia ■Kl I I 268 bhitisii north America. buffalo, spear, or slioot with arrows or fire-arms, the bewildered animals, now lranti(j with rago and terror at findinj^ themselves unable to e.sca[)o fojni the narrow limits of thn pound." Mr. Hind conversed with a Crce a hundred j-cars old: — "lie remembfTs the time wiion his jxople were as numerous as the buflalo are now, and the buffalo thick as the trees in the forest." Tlie hunter.s of the tribe stated that during the existence of tlu- two companies all went well with the Indians ; tliev obtained excellent pay, and could alwaj-s sell tin ir meat, skins, robes, and pemmican. Since the union they had received bad pay for their provisions, ami were growing poorer, weaker, and more misorablf year by year. In consequence of the wholesale and wanton de- struction, the buffalo have greatly diminislied, and all the Indians agree in the belief that they, in like manner, will decrease till none are left. "With regard to the Indians, the philanthropist may liopo that civilization will bring means of subsistence to the Indians of which they know little at present ; and "with respect to the buffaloes, although thoy may disappear, it is satisfactory to kno7* that the rich pastures which feed them will equally siqiptirt domestic cattle, sheep, and horses; indeed, a stork derived from a cross of them with the cow increases, becomes perfectly tame, is as hardy as they ar(>, and gives an abundant supply of rich milk. Mr. Kane tells us that the half-breeds of the Tod Eiver settlement alone are supposed to kill thirty thousand annually. Among numberless illustrations of the necessity of estabUshing British rule in the BUFFALO MEAT KEPT IN ICE. 2G9 country, lie mentions tlie followinc^: — While ac- lompanying a band of lialf-])reed hunters — British «ubie(;ts, it must bo remembered, some of them sons of British fathers — one of their number, a scout, was found murdered (no uncommon occurrence), probably by Sioux, -s^-ith M'hom they had been at war for several years. " Three days afterwards the scouts gave notice that enemies were in sight. Inimodiately a hundred of the best mounted hastened tu the spot, and, concealing themselves behind the slielter of the bank of a small stream, sent out two as decoys, who exjiosed themselves to the \\qw of the Sioux. The latter supposing them to U' alone, rushed upon them ; whereu^ton the con- fided half-breeds sprung up and poured in a volley among them, which brought down eight. Tlie others tsiiipeJ, though several must have been wounded, as much blood was afterwards discovered on their truck." The half-breeds do not take scalps, but their SalteaiLx allies performed that office, and re- j'jiced over then in true Indian style. ^Ir. Kane spent the winter at Fort Edmonton, round which buffaloes abounded all tho time, and ho •-'iigaged in many hunts. Tlieir ilesh is preserved through the summer in the following way : — An ice- pit i J made, capable of containing the carcasses of 700 to 8U0 bulfaloes. The ice in the river is cut into square blocks of a uniform size with sa^\s. With th'se blocks the floor and sides of the pit are lined, and cemented together with water thrown on them, whicli freezes hard. Each carcass, witliout being skinned, is divided into four quarters, which are piled in layers in tho pit till it is Ullod up. It is then :: ' t ' ' •: I, = I I ; I n. H^ 14 t'l II 270 BRITISH NOHTII AMERICA. no ;eref^. witli a thick coatinf^ of straw, "svliicli is apain protected from the sun and rain by a shed. In thi3 •way tho meat is kept perfectly good throiip;li tho summer, and is more tender, and of bettor lUivour, than when fresh. The bulfaloes keep near the habitations of men to avoid their determined enemies tho wolves, though men slaughter them in greater numbers. Tho diiror- ence is this : the wolves worry them, the huntsmen kill them outright. Tho fare which Mr. Kaiu! • n- joyed at the fort was not to be despised, consisting as it did of whitefish, butfalo-tongues, toa, milk, sugar, and palettes* for breakfast. Then for dinner: at one end of the table a dish of boiled buifalo- liump, at the o;;her a smoked and boiled buiFulo calf, mouffle or dried moose-nose, whitefish browned in buffalo merrow, a dish of beavers' tails, roast wild goose, piles of potatoes and turnips, and abund- ance of bread. Kane, with a companion Francois, were constantly out shooting. Falling in with a herd of liullaldoa, Fran9ois instructed him in the mysteries of "making a calf," thus taking advantage of the great aiiec- tion of the buffaloes for their young, which tho whole herd will assist in protecting. This ruse is generally performed by two men, one covering himself with a wolf-skin, the other with a buffalo robe. They then crawl on all fours within sight of the buffaloes, and as soon as they have en- gaged their attention, the pretended wolf jumps on the pretended calf, which bellows in imitation of a real one. The herd then rush on to protect their * Cakes of simple Hour and water, baked under the ashes. "making a CILF.'^ 271 lupposed young with sueli impetuosity, that they do cot detect the cheat till they are close enough to ho jhot. Franqois' bellowing was so perfect, that Kano and ho were nearly run down. As soon, however, as they jumped up, the buffaloes fled, leaving behind TO of their number, who paid the penalty of their •rant of discernment with their lives. iSometimea twenty men would go out, crawling one after iho other, in a long ^line towards the herd, whicli they fould '''\na approach quite close, seldom failing to slioot several. The Indians say that the buil'aloes mistake the lino for a snako moving along the grass. Professor Hind graphically describes a combat ho witnessed through liis telescope on the Calling River. A butfalo bull appeared on the opposite side of tho valley. '* Armed with his bow from the bois d'arc, his arrows from the mesaskatomina, neatly featliered with the plumes of the wild duck, and headed with a barl) fashioned from a bit of iron hoop, tho young Cree warrior threw off his leather hunting shirt, jumped on a horse, and hurried across tho valley. Dismounting at the foot of tho bank, ho rapidly ascended its steep sides, and, just before reaching tho top, cautiously approached a large boulder, which lay on the brink, and crouched behind it. Tho bufi'alo was witliin forty yards of tho spot wliero the Indian crouched, slowly approaching tho valley as he leisurely cropped tho tufts of parched herbage which the sterile soil was capable of sup- porting. Wlien wiihin twenty yards of tho Indian, tho bull raised his head, snuffed tho air, and began to paw the ground. Lying at full length, tho Indian sent an arrow into the side of his huge antagonist. I t li : ; ,; ) ■ i ) I'^'-'m .^ i 1^ if I ■ii I It. r 1 272 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. The hull shook his hoad and mano, planted his fore feet firmly in front of him, and looked from side to fiido in search of his unseen foe, wlio, after driving tho arrow, had aj^ain crouched behind the hould.-r. Soon, however, observing tlio fixed attitude oi' the bull, a sure sign that he vras severely wouuilod. lie stepped on one side and showed himself The bull instantly charged, but when within live yards of his nimble enemy, the Indian sprang lightly behind the boulder, and tho bull plunged headlong down tho hill, receiving, after he had {massed the Indian, a second arrow in his ilauks. As soon as liu liud reached tho bottom, he fell on his knee?, and looked over his shoulder at his Mary antagonist, who speedily followed, and, observing tho IniU's helpless condition, sat on the ground within a few yards of him, waiiing for the death gasp. After one ur two efforts to rise, tlie hirgo animal gave up the strife, and dropped his head. The Indian was at his side without a moment's pause, cut out liis tonfrue, caught his horse — an excited speetator of the coutlict — and, galloping across tho valley, handed me the trophy of his success." All buffalo hunters are not equally fortunate. Dr. Richardson mentions cases in which men lost their lives. lie says : — ''While I resided at Carlton House, Mr. Finnan M'Ponald, one of tho Hudson's Bay Company'^ clerks, was descending the Saskatchewan in a 1)oat: and one evening, having pitched his tent for tiit night, he went out in tho dusk to look for game. It had become nearly dark, when he fired at a bison- bull, which was galloping over a small eminence: •' y. 3 PERILOUS ENCOUNTER. 273 and as he was hasteninj;^ forward to see if liis sliot kJ taken eiicct, the wounded beast made a rush at Lim. He had presence of mind to seize tlio animal iv tlio lon;^^ liair on its forehead, as it struck him on •Jie side with its liorn ; and heinj^ a remarkahly tall M powerl'id man, a s^rufrglo ensued, wiiich con- ::imed until liis wrist was severely sprained, and his irm rendered powerless. Ho then fell, and after receiving two or tliree Idows, Li'camo senstdess. ^Iidrtly after, he was found ])y his conijtanions lying iatliL'd in ])lood, being gored in several places ; and •i.e l)i.s()n was couched beside him. ap})arently wait- in^' to renew the attack had he sliown any signs of li!<'. Mr. ]\[ 'Donald recovered from tlie immediate illects of the injuries he had received, but died a few niuiulis afterwards."* Tlio following facts connected witli the buffalo are important in tlieir bearing upon colonization. First, that wliere the bufl'alo exists, the cow can fmd sub- sistence; and tluit, as has been stated, they not only winter on tlio Upper Saskatchewan, but as far nurtk as Lake Athabasca. The next is, that the bison itself can bo domes- tiiatcd. It can also be crossed with the cow. Humboldt spates that the mixed breed was quite common fifty years ago in sone jf the ns^rth- westorn counties of Virginia ; and lie found in Mexico an Indian tribe whose principal riches con- sisted in herds of tame bisons. Thus we lind certain proniise of an abundant supply of food for tho future settler. • "Fauutt Boreali Americaua," vol. i. p. 281. f 1 I n i . 1 t',\ CHAPTEE XIV BRITISH COLUMUIA. Early liistorr of Britif..i Columbia— ronndsries and rit(>nt — G(>n(>ral ns])pft of the country — Priiici|vil rivers— Tho gold ficlis— Aeriod'.tiiral canu'iililios — Forpsta of vnlual'lc timber — Towns — Cliinesc sptilcrs— Th^ abori;;inal tribes — Missions among them — Extract from Blue Hooks respei'tiiip the natural productions of the country— Fisheries— I'rogrefo from 1859 to 1863. i I lit H{ 'i t 1 1 , 1 w British Columbia remninod an almost imlcnnwn region till Sir Alexaiulor Mackenzie, in 1790, frosscd tlio llocky Mountains from tlio east and descfMiflfd into it. The enterprising traders of the Nortli-wost Company soon followed, and estahlishcd nuineroiis posts on the Columbia Kiver ; rnd, in ] 8()(>, Mr. Eraser, a trader of tlie Hudson's Bay C(^mpany, es- tablished Fort Eraser at tlie head of the river of iliat name. The Hudson's Bay Company obtained a licon?f for the exclusive trade over the whole of tlie terrirory west of the llocky Mountains, which expired in 18o9. Till that time scarcely a white man liad set iout in the territory, except the agents of the Fur Coiiipany. and no settlement, properly so called, exist('(l. l\> fertile valley's and rich pasture lands ; its mines ol gold, coi)per, and silver; its forests of super!) trees; its lakes and streams, teeming with fish, all remained useless, except to support a few wandering tribes of Indians. No steam-boats navigated its lakes ; no 5 1 (' I. '. 1 CREATED A COLONY. ;/i) nads woro oponod ; its stroams turned no mills. Tho vfl- Euroiieans and Canadians who formed it3 civi- lized jiopulation were occupied ^vitll tho sole object of btainiiif; tho greatest possibh^ number of furs for ;ho lowest possible price. A writer well remarks : • It was not tho interest of a commercial conipany, ulio monopolized a highly lucrative sale of European .roods, and an Cfjually ])rolitable barter of furs, to make known tho lino climate, valuable resources, and ample capabilities of tho country." Thus, New Cidodonia, as British Columbia was then called, has no history, unless an acco\int of white men ^nur- (lerod by Indians, and Indians slaughtered by the fur traders, can bo so called. It would probably have still remained unsettled, but for the discovery, in 1858, that gold, in largo quantities, existed in tho territory. The news spread -apidly through California, and there was an imme- diate rush of gold-seekers to explore the auriferous reefs and diggings. The Hudson's Bay Company was powerless to establish order amongst the new- comers. Their charter was thereforo revoked, and the country was erected into a colonj- under tho namo of British Columbia, with a governor and legislative council of fifteen members ; of whom five are public ciffiecrs, five are magistrates, and five are chosen by the colonists. The boundaries of the colony are, on the south, tho United States territory; on the north, G(P north latitude ; on the west, the Pacific and tho Itussian tc-rritury ; on tho east, the water-shed of the Eocky Mountains, and 120° west longitude. Tlio adjacent islands are included in the colony, "with the exception '■% mm e^ ' " -*t* wild apple-tree, tlio white and black tluan, aini deciduous bushes in great variety, form tho massive undergrowth. Tho vegetation is luxuriant aliuns^ beyond conception, and at this season of the vi-ar presents a peculiarly beautiful appearance. Tiie eye never tires of ranging over the varied shtules oi the fresh grc^en foliage, mingling with tho clasteiing wliite flowers of tho wild apple-tree, now in full bloom, and filling tho air with delicious fragrance. As our boat, gliding swiftly over the surfad' d' tho smooth -waters, occasionally swept beneatli th.' overhanging l)Oughs, that form a canojiy of leiivcs impenetrable to the sun's scorching rays, the el!i'or and Lower Frnsor. Tlio Uji]i T drains tlio Tinrtlicrn part of tho interior, ivceiving tlio 8tuart, Thonijison, and many otlier rivc^'H. Tlio lowor part is navigable from its mouth tn;- 10.'} mih_'8 to tlio town of Yalo. Abovi' tliis, for a Mii.^i'U'rablo distance, rapids extend till near the nioutli of tho Thompson Kiver. TIk? robimbia, tlioiiL;li navi;^ablo for canoes almost from its source, i< of less eonso([uenco than the Fraser, as it ilows tliDii^li the extrem<3 south-east portion of the pr(»vince, .lUtl tlicTi enters Am(>ri< an t(n'rit(jry. 'J'lie next in iiupiirtanco is the Thom})son liivei-, Avhich, llowinj^ ;!ii'tr('uiii, tho Canoe liiver, risinj^ in tho Cariboo listiict, falls into tho Columbia, at a point known as Hoat Encampment. TIius travellers from Canada and lied lliver, after crossing- the llocky Mountains, at tho very foot of ^^■hich IJoat Encampment is found, (.an proceed by water to (.'ariboo. On tho west, aluiiir the eoast-line, aro numerous dec]» iidits, while various rivers and streams flow througli that part of the province. Many other lakes and rivers I ■ * i ' i • i t • i 1 - 'It f. H I !' ( I V 'a f 1 i i f ^ i • ^1 f ■ 1 r 1 i . ■ ' } 1 \ f t ■ 1 J * 1 J 278 IIUIII.SII NOUTH AMKIIICA. int(!rloclc, so that l»y means of canals, sliorf railwavs unci truiuways, or coiuinou roads, easy means (.t'lnm- mimleatioii uill Lo speedily opened n[> tlirMU;^r),,,n^ tlio eonntry ; and IVoui tho gcncTal fi-rtilify uf tlio soil, little else i^ requisite fur tlio development of in alnu)st uidiniited resourees. The eliii'f ^old rej^non.s arc tlio banliS of tlie Frasov and its tributaries, tho ravilion, Uuesntllf, Cotton- wood, and other Ktreani.s ; tho Thom[)Hun, with its tribi'.ariea ; and the whoh? Carihoo rej^Mon ; especiiillv at tho base and on the t^ide.s of the hills, on theliaiiks of tho stream, and on tho slun-es of its luk«;s. Thr whole course of tho Columbia is auriferous, anil so are some of tho streams which fall into Lake Okaua|]^an. In tho extreme south, tho chief diL'^jjiiigs are on tlie Shimilkomeen Eivor, on liock Creek, and, in all jtrcjbiibility, on the Columbia Kidge. Theiv can be little doubt timt p:olil will also bo foinul on the sides of the Iloclcy Mountains. It undoubtedly exists to the east of the range, oxtcndinjj^ along' tlio banks of the Saskatchewan. Tho principal ;i<'. tV'ruuy, ami i'lto Laky icf diL'"giiiL's Creek, and, JO foinul on iiul()u))k'(Ilv j;' aloiij,' tho icipal .a, are clothed with forests, and the logs can be iloatod down to New AVestminster, and other ]iorts on tiie Gulf of (ieorpria (in the same wa; that the timber (if Canada reaches Quebec), thence to 8ui>ply tho ivpjions washed by tlie Pacific, wliich are destitute of that necessary article. Australia has already be- louie a customer for the timber of Ih'itish Columbia and Vancouver's Island. South America and China uill also take all that can be supjdied. V\'e may sum up the capabilities of tlie country in tho words of the evidence given before the House of Commons: — "Its minerals are most valuable ; its timltcr the linest in the world for marine purposes; it aliounds with l)ituminous coal, well fitted for the ireneration of steam. From Thompson's liiver and Colville districts to the liocky ^louutains, and from the li)th parallel to some 3.J0 miles north, a more beautiful country does not exist. It is in every way suitable for colonizati(»n." A considerable number of towns have already sprung up in British Columbia. ISew Westminster, situated on the right or n(»rth baidc (d' the Fraser, ju^.t above the junction of the north fork, aiul about iii'tceu miles in a nortli-easterly dirci- ness portion of the city front, on which substantial sheds and warehouses have been erected. Hitherto the greater part of the trade of the mines has pass^cd through the capital ; it enjoys the daily increasing traffic of the Eraser, and derives a laige revenue rORT nOPE — YALE. 283 from its custom duties. As other routes from tho sea are opened up to tho inte'/ior, some of this trade will bo drawn otf; hut at the same time, as the general commerce of tho province increases, so must tliat of the capital. In a dospatcli dated Now Westminster, May, 1800, Governor Douglas reports: — "The Custom-house receipts exceed £1,000 per week, and corroborate the npiuiun I lur/o expressed with respect to the state of trndo, and indicate +'ie spirited manner in Avhich supplies are being sent into the mining districts', and the confidence entertained by business men in tho auriferous resources of tho country." In tho same despatch he states: — "This city has very greatly improved in appearance since my last visit, many new buildings have been erected, and the surface, in many parts, cleared of the gigantic stumps and fallen trees that obstructed tho thttroughfares and en(;um- liercd tho ground." lioads have been formed from tho capital through the forest, and tlio land on either side has been si)eedily taken up by .settlers. Fort Hope — the town next in imp(.>rtance to the capital — is about 100 miles up tho Fraser, at tho elbow where tho course alters from south to west. Here the miners stop both going to and returaing ii'tim the upper country gold-diggings; and u number of Chinese have taken up their abode in the Unvn. It is making rapid progress, and roads are being puslied forward north and east of it. Yale — situated fifteen miles above Fort Ilope, on tho right bank of tho Fraser — is the termination of steam navigation. It is a Uourishing place, with a rapidly-increasing population. From Fort llopo i I 1 1 i is I 1 ' ! ( I; J i' t • i 1 ■ ! I ■t 'f in n f ■ I. , 284 ERITISn NORTH AMERICA. eastward a road extondK to tlie fertile district df Sliimirioraoen. Above Yale is Spuzzum, and iK.rtii of it i'i Quayome. Tlie new road, formed mar tlie banks of tlie Fraser Eiver runs along tlio face uf terrilic precipices, but is perfectly safe. Still furtlior up, on the eastern bank, at what is call»'(l tli^ Forks of the Fraser, where it is joined ],y iho Thompson llivor, is the increasing town o{ IjVttDn. The whole distance between Yale and Lytton is cut up into mining claims, and gold-digging is lure carried on Avith more science than in many other places. The miners have a great advantage in getting supplied with jirovisions at a flunqi rate. The carriage-road between Quayome and J.yttuu is of the greatest importance. The settlers are as civ^i-T about the i'ormation of mule tracks and waggon roads as peophj M'cre a few years ago about railways in England. Lytton is rising into importance ; l/it those unaccustomed to ne^^' settlements in America wouhl bo ralher astonished at the appearance of this and other similar towns in the province. An avenue is cut through the forest ; the stumps of the trees remain in the ground and stand u}) cvcvv- Trhere; the logs form walls for cottages or fences; squares in the forest are cut out for gardens or IIlUIs. Space only is cleared to allow waggons to pass. In the Cariboo district, the town of Uuesnellf has sprung up on a lake of the same name. Its p(jpula- tion is very fluctuating, though rapidly increasing. Many other towns are rising up in the forest or amongst the gold fields. Of these Douglas is, perhaps, the most promising and important. It is most picturescj[i'.eh situated on Harrison Lake, with rorULATION AT THE DTGOINQS. 285 lofty tree-covered heights risinj:!^ above it ; but the !:uini>s of trees still form a prominent featiu'e in any view taken of it. The Chinese are very numerous at all tho towns, 2* well as at the diggings. Mr. Commissioner Smders ro^mrts, from tlie Yale district, that "Tlie mining claims are, "with few exceptions, in tlio hands li tho Chinese, there being about 2,000 of this }ieoi)lo within the district." They are industrious, sober, and, generally, well conducted, certainly assist- ing to develop the resources of the country, and to increase the Government revenue. In otlior respects tliey are an undesirable people, but it may be that, uiulfr God's Providence, tlicy may reap advantages of a spiritual nature which tliey in no way expect. One Christian missionary labours among tliem, but many more would lind ample occupation in speaking to them of Christ. fc>everal of tho ministers estab- li<;]u'd in the towns devote much attention to them, but without speaking their language it is dilHiult to convoy tho truth to their understantlings. I'erhaps some missionaries may bo found, whoso state of lieahli prevents them returning to Cliina, who would be al)le to minister to them. The natives of tho country, no less than emigrants, cliiiiu the sympatln'es of the Christian pliilanthropist. Ah-t".dy some mission-stations have been , formed among them, and a lew Indians have gkiddened the hearts of the missionaries by receiving Christ in faith. There are but few of the aborigines in the interior of the province; indeed, it is supposed that they do not amount to more than 2,000. Uu the sea-board and neighbouring islands they are moro numerous; ' R .!* J '(I i I I I i i U i !;• !l 286 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. I:i I J : I reckoning all the tribes to the north, and inrlud- ing those of Vancouver, they numljer upwards of 64,000. The Hudson's Bay Comjiany'H oliiccrs calculate that they amount in all to 80,000. The}" belong chiefly to the great Cliipppwnv family, and are tolerably well disposed towards tlie \vhites ; but, unhappily, frequent quavrcds liavo arisen, which liave ended in bloodshed. The p'oator iiumber are in a sadly degraded condition. Hcvfral families unite to build a liouse proportionate in si/.o to the number of inhabitants. The building lias one hnifr ridge-pole, which is uncovered in several idaces for the free egress of the smoke. They are oxccssivel'.- dirty and lazy, and full of vermin. Tlioy novor bathe or wash, and present in consequence a most repulsive appearance of filth. AVlien roin'oadied with this want of cleanliness, they replied, that tln' dirt preserved them from the cold of winter, and protected them from the scorching heat of sinnmcr. The women, wlio saturate their hair with palinon fat, paint it with red ochre, and powder it witli the down of birds, are still more repulsive tlian tlio men. A recent writer speaks generally of tlutso on the coast, as *' with few exceptions, terribly ugly, with Hat lieads, projecting cheeks, long greasy masses ot black hair, and dirty blanket robes. Thoy arc very cruel and vindictive, constantly kill each otlu-r, aii'I the women are compelled to labour in i]\o must slavish mariner. It is advisable to pass to windward of them on a hot day. Indeed, there is notliinj: romantic about them, though at a distance they innii picturesque groups in the landscape, and their caimo are perfect triumphs of art. They all drink as much 11 INDIAN rOrULATION. 287 [ire-water as they can pet, and are thus dangorous •) offend, though friendly enough with the whites 1 1: other times." Savage heathenism is the same everj-where, and :o words coukl descx'ibe the horrors which havo Ibeen committed generation after generation through- vat tlie whole Indian territory. Yet those savages ■avo souls to be saved, and are as susceptible ■ U limits is excoedlngly beautiful and picturesque, being composed of a succession of hills and valleys, lakes and rivers, exhibiting to the traveller accus- tomed to the endless forests of the coast districts, the unusual and grateful spectacle of miles of green hills, curving slopes, and level meadows, almost Trithout a bush or tree to obstruct the way, and even to the very hill-tops producing an abundant STowth of grass. It is of great value as a grazing district, a circumstance which appears to be tho- pDughly understood and appreciated by the country ;iiit'kers, who are in the habit of leaving their mules and horses here when the regular work of packing goods to the Cariboo mines is suspended for the winter, "The animals, even at that season, are said to improve in condition, though left to seek their own food, and to roam at large over the country, a fact which speaks vohmies in favour of the climate, and of the natural pastures. It has certyinly never been my good fortune to visit a country more pleasing to the eye, or possessing a more bracing and healthy climate, or a greater extent of fine pasture land ; and there is no doubt that with a smaller amount of labour and outlay than in almost any other (iolony, the energetic settler may soon surroimd himself with all the elements of aitluence and comfort. " A good deal of riiniiing stock has been brought m for sale ; but with the exception of eight or ten lersons, there are no farmers in the district 'owing '0 the difR(;ulties of access which have till now existt'd). One of these, Mr. ^NE'Loau, a nsitive of 'S.'otland, and lately of the Hudson's I3ay T'ompany's service, has recently settled on a beautiful sjjot, near '■'i * f t i! 290 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. ,. u ? :t i >■■ I the debouchure of the Hat River, and is rapidly biinging his land into cultivation. Ho has u j^Toat number of horses and cattle of the finost Amoritan breeds, and from the appearance of the crops there is every prospect that his labour and outlay will bo well rewarded. IIo is full of courage, and as con- fident as deserving of success. Ho entortaius no doubt whatever of the capabilities of the soil, ■which he thinks will, under proper management, produce any kind of grain or root crops. Tho only evil he seriously apprehends is want of rain, which has induced him to bring a supply of water from a neighbouring stream, by which ho can at pleasure irrigate tho whole of his fields. ** I received an equally favourable report from Mr. Eeynolds, who commenced a farm at tlie Pavilion in the year 1859, and ho has consequently had the advantage of two years' experience. His last crop, besides a jirofusion of garden vegetables, consisted of oats, barley, turnips, and potatoes, and the produce was most abundant. Tho laud under potatoes yielded 375 bushels to the acre. The tui'nip crop wac no less prolific ; one of the roots weighed twenty-six pounds, and Swedes of fifteen pounds and sixteen pounds were commonly met ' with. He could not give the yield of oats and barley, the greater part having been sold in tho sheaf, for the use of the mule trains passing to and fro from the Cariboo mines; but the crop, as wa3 manifest from the weight and length of the straw, which attained a height of fully four feet, was remarkably good. He allows his cattle to run at large, and they seldom require to be housed in winter. m MM • 1 ! CLIMATE — IRRIGATION — FISHERIES. 291 "Tho cold is never severe ; the greatest depth of snow in 18o9 was twelve inches, and the following winter it did not exceed six inches. I'loughin*;' coni- aonces about the middle of March. The Humniers are generally dry, and Mr. lieyuolds is of opinion that irrigation will be found an indispensabli> appli- cation in the process of husbandry in this district. In the dry summer of 1859, he kept water almost cunstantly running through liis fields, but applied it uuly twice during the summer of IbGU, when the muisture of the atmosphere proved otherwise sulTi- uient for the crops. "The numerous streams which permeate the valleys of this district all'ord admirable facilities for inexpensive irrigation ; so bountiful, indeed, has Nature been in this respect, that it is hardly an exaggeration to say, that there is a water-course or rivulet for every moderate-sized fai-m that will be opened in the district."* Any statement of the natural resources of British Columbia would be incomplete wliich did not take into account its fisheries. A recent writer f thus speaks of them ; — "In common with the whole of the seas, gulfs, bays, rivers, and lakes of the entii'e district and coast, the Eraser swarms with prodigious (quantities of fish. Indeed, in the harbours, herrings are literary raked into the canoes, by means of a flat piece of board, sixteen or eighteen feet long, and about two and a * Despatch from Ocver.ior Douglas to Colonial Oilicc, dated Victoria, Vancouver's Island, July, 1801. t "Edinburgh Review," JSo. £il, p. 463. \- ( , 1 11 • 1 -T"^^^ 2U2 BKITISII NORTH AMEI'JCA. (5: IJIE i 1 .': ! ml Kit T f I I i half inchos hroad, studded with n dozen tiiiprnnv nails — in this riido miinnor an Indian Avill till his canoo in an hour or two; and tlio traveller alun;; tli" })anks of the shallower streams may catch the suhaoii I in his hands, implanted in these creatures an extraordinary dt sir.' to reach tlie head-sources of the various strcani^, which they rosij^n only with their lives. Indeed, ni invincible is this instmct in the salmon of r)rif;s!i Columbia, that its origin must probably be tianii to some cause still more peculiar — which wo iiiav perhaps find in the rapid in(;line of its river-lnil-, and the hii^h and impetuous floods from tlie mcln'n.^ of mountain snows, which would sweep the .s[)aw!! lack into the sea. DuriuLC the months of Jiilv an 1 Aug'ust these salmon may be seen hurryinL>- on t) their fate, passing' up each stream in count K'ss myriads, and succeeding each other in interniiuabl'' shoals. 8ALM0X FISIIEUIES. 203 " 'Onward thoy spooJ. The impotiious current is lircasted, ra[)i(ls are passed, casea ■•PI .11. ■■ i \ 1 1 i J i :^ A h*^ S ! '■I ...\i. '^- — - -f^^. [' j rii:- 1 ; I r It''; * hi' I . il i r: CHAPTER XV. vancoia^er's island. History— Physical aspects— Beauty of scenery— Nature nf soil— Climatic- Natural productions— Price of land— Agriculture— Advautascs offered to amali farmers — Progress. Continuing our course Tvestward, we reach the large and important island which lies along tl'.o coast of British Columbia, and which is separatjd from it by the Gulf of Georgia. It now forms an inde- pendent colony, under its own legislative govern- ment. It therefore receives separate notice. Vancouver's Island is situated between the parallels of 48^ 20" and 51° north latitude, and 123^ and 128^ west longitude. It is 300 miles in length, with a general breadth of from 30 to 50 miles. It has a superficial area of 14,000 square miles, being about one-fourth the size of England and Wales. Its southern and broadest end lies in a deep indentation of the mainland, part of which, with several of the adjacent island:^, belongs to the Government of tlio United States, and is called Washington Territory. Its coast-line is marked by numerous creeks ami inlets of the sea which run far inland, forming admirable harbours for shipping, and affording the greatest facilities for inter-communication. These niSTORY OF VANC0U\T:R S ISL^VXD. 297 are the more valuable, as the rivers, though nu- merous, are only navigable for canoes at short distances from tlieir mouths. The rapidity with which they rush down from the mountains, though it impedes navigation, will prove an invaluable source of power for driving machinery. Already those great natural advantages are being aj^pre- ciated. (Ships from all nations are found in the harbours. A. legitimate and extensive trade is taking the place of the barter of baubles and fire- water for furs with the Indians. Coal-mines are being worked, corn-fields cultivated, towns and ^•illages are s})ringing up with an almost magical rapidity. Tlie island is assuming tlio appearance of an established and prosperous colony. The history of Vancouver's Island is brief. Cook, as we have seen, sailed along its coast in 1776, communicated with the natives, and anchc^red in Nuotka Sound, believing the island to form jiart of the continent of America. Two years afterwards, a company of London merchants, at the head of which was a Mr. Meares, formed a settlement there, with the intention of trading with China. Their vessels were, however, seized by the Spaniards, who laid claim to all the west coast of America south of lati- tude GO^. On this a fleet assembled at Spithead, and war was about to bo declared with !Spa"u, when she made the required concessions, and indoi mitied the merchants for their loss, virtually aband(jTiing her claims, Captain Vancouver, of the lioyal Na\'y, being sent out to receive tlie transfer. He after- wards explored its coasts, and made tlie discovery of its insular character. It has properly, therefore, been i-J (! ' i 'i 1 'i w » 1 : i i i ll! 1 298 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. ^« u 1 1 i , I 1 1 ■ , '9 II , i '" 8 I' 111 called after him. It was visited the same year by Quadra, by whose name it was also, for some time, known. Men-of-war cruising in the Pacific occa- sionally touched there, as did whalers, and ^.t was occasionally resorted to by the servants of Turret Sound and Hudson's Lay Companies, to collect furs; but no interest whatever was taken in it by the public generally. However, in IS 19, the Hudson's Bay Company succeeded in obtainin;^ a lease of the island for ten years, on the condition of colonizing it, the Imperial Government reserving the right of resuming authority over it at the termination of that period on repaying to the Company the sums thty had expended in their attempt to settle it. In 18oS gold was discovered in the neighbouring terri- tory of New Caledonia, as it was then called ; and as numerous strangers had begun to Hock to the sliores of Vancouver on their way to the gold mines, the Government resumed their right, and created it into a colony in 1859, New Caledonia being created into a colony at the same time under the name of Ih-itish Columbia. At that period the whole population of Vancouver, men, women, and children, did not ex- ceed 500, chiefly servants of the Hudson's J}ay Company. That Company, however, sent in a bill to the Government for cash expended in colonization of £102,071 8s. 3d., so that each person cost the nation £330. Mr. Douglas, an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had been acting as governor, was appointed as fii'st governor under the Crown. The governor is assisted by a nominated council and an assembly, elected by the inhabitants holding tweuty r DESCRIPTION OF COUNTRY. 299 acrea and upwards of land. Originally the number uf representatives was only sovon, but it has recently been increased to fifteen, and an executive council nranted. Until within a few years back our chief knowledge of tliis large island was derived from tho rough surveys of Captain Vancouver, who thus describes the southern end : — "The serenity of tho chmate, the innumerable pleasing landscapes, and the abundant fertihty that unassisted Nature puts forth, require only to be enriched by the industry of man, with villages, mansions, cottages, and other buildings, to render it the most lovely country that can be imagined, whilst tho labours of the inhabitants would bo amply rewarded in the bounties which Nature seems ready to bestow on cultivation." Other surveyors from time to timo added a little to tho general stock of knowledge, yet very imperfect, till the English Government sent out TI.M.S. Plumper^ Captain G. 11. Eichards, r.n., by whom the coasts of the island have been thoroughly surveyed, although part of the interior still remains to bo explored. The island may bo described as consisting of a central mountain ridge, which attains Lt Mount Arrowsmith an elevation of .0,900 fcf>t, with various spurs branching off to the coast on either hand, their sides clothed with the gigantic Douglas pine and other fine trees ; while rich, well-watered valleys and undulating prairies, precipices, and hills, and wild rocks, rising out of the ground, often surrounded by superb oaks, whose branches afford a gratefi '* shade in tho heat of summer, beautifully diversify tho scenery. ^ ' 'i \ A M * 1? \ \t \ :'\l M I I > 1-^ Mi ; 300 BRITISH NORTH AilERICA. The outline of the coast is bold and romantic in the extreme, its chief features Leinj^ lofty piMUKjn- tories, rocky cliifs, bays, inlets, slielterod eovts, and pebbly beaches, with harbours ■where ships (,au ut all t^'mes find shelter ; indeed, in few spots on the '.urtli's surface can more picturesque scenery be found, wliilf from its geographical position, its great fertility, uiul the excellence of its harbours, it will luiduuljtcdly play no unimportant part in the future history di' the Pacific. Added to its other advantages, it guards, as it were, the western portal to that great iutcv- colonial high road now forming through lUiti-h North America, to be developed hereafter into a railway, across the whole continent. Vancouver is separated from the mainland on tlie north by tlie Straits of San Juan de Fuca, on tlie east by the Gulf of Georgia — which further nortli is called Qdeen Charlotte's Sound. From its narr(Av- ness ami intricacy, this channel is diflicult of access. Approaching Vancouver by way of the Pacinc, deep water will be found till within fifteen mile-;. where it suddenly shoals to ninety fathoms. A}i- proaching the coast, on the right rises the rugged, dark, snow-capped Olympian Mountains, in American territory, and on the left a long, rugged ran^n.' rising abruptly from the sea, and broken into pin- nacles and precipices, presenting every variety of mountain scenery of the grandest and most attrac- tive descri])tiou. The straits are nowhere more than from ten to twelve miles in width, but the navigation is net difficult. At the entrance of the strait is found the convenient and sale harbour of San Juan. About ESQUIMAULT — VICTORIA. 301 fifty miles up is tlie flashing light on the Race Tiocks, the scenery preserving the same mountainous and picturesque character, the range on tlio right increasing in height till opposite Victoria, where it attains an elevation of 8,000 to 0,000 feet. Some- times the hills rise clifF-like from tht water, Tvhioh is stiuhled with numerous rocky islands and islets. Eounding the Race Rocks, so called from the agitation of the water as it rushes over a rough b(jttom, Royal l^ay is entered, and the light at the entrance of Escpiimault Harbour is seen. A pro- montory, or rather a peninsula, some ten miles in circuit, separates Esquimault from T'ictoria Harbour. The neck of the peninsula is only throe miles across, and the two harbours can be united by either a canal or a railway. Esquimault Harbour is deep, pxtensive, and so safe that vessels may unload along- side the rocks. It is the great Britisli naval harbour in the Pacific, and can be entered by ships of any size at all times of tide, both by day and night. Victoria Harbour, further to the enst, is of great beauty. At present only smaller vessels are able to cross the bar at its entrance, })ut when that is deepened largo sliips may lloat on its ample bosom. The site of Victoria, noAv the capital, was chosen on account of the extent of fertile land in its neighbour- hood. It is, too, somewhat nearer the entrance of the Eraser and tJio capital of Jh'itish C(jlumbia, and is capable of being easily defended fr(;m an .attack by soa. The description l)y Dr. Eorbes conveys a good idea of the scenery of this part of the island. The new comer is supposed to have rounded Raco liocks, and entered Royal Bay, when a luagiiiiicent ■ ^ \ ; i ■t ■ i 1 I f R 1 :|, 1 I: 302 BRITISH NORTn AMERICA. 1 i t • n lii: i. ■ ; 1 prospect opens to his view — a picture whicli, viewed by the warm sunlight of a fine autumnal day, can nowhere be surpassed for beauty of outline or richness or variety of colouring. " On his iniiiKMliate left are the rounded trappean hills of Vancouver covered nearly to the summits by a thick vogolution, the purjile tints of the bold, outstanding^ rocks mingling in harmony of tone with the dark grfou of the i)ine and of the oak ; while below, in the vallevs and lower grounds, the cool greys of the ruuudcil rock-masses, fringed by a thick carpet of purple- brown fern, join with the autumnal orango tints of the maple, and the bright yet tender groon of the alder and willow, to form a mass of colour on wliicli the eye dwells with dehght. Before the observer stretches an undulating park-Hke country, backed by wooded hills of moderate height, the sea face formed by a succession of low, rounded, rocky promontories, with outlying reefs and islands. From Fisguard light, which, like a watchful sentinel, guards the entrance to the harbour of Esquimault, past Victor" a Ilarbour, Beacon Hill, and sweeping on by Cadborough Bay, this same character of country obtains ; its sloping pastures, studded with oak and maple, giving from their general appearance the idea of a country long occupied by civilized man, and covered with ilocks and herds. To the north, outlying groui)s of islands, some low and undulating, others bold and pic- turesque, stud and spring from the glassy sea. And in the east, the horizon is bounded by the American continent, grandly outlined and defined by the n(»ble proportions of Mount Baker, tower:ng in its mantle of perpetual snow, from the giant sho^ilder of which NATURE OF SOIL. 303 stretches in a south-easterly direction the serrated snow-clad range of the Cascades." The scenery of the interior in no way disappoints those who have tlius beheld the coast, under every advantage, from the calm waters of the straits. In no pfirt of the world, within a limited distance, can be found a more beautiful combination of mountain, lake, stream, woodland, and marine landscapes, than aro to be met with within a short distance of Victoria itself. Of more importance to the settler than the appear- ance of the country, is the nature of the soil which covers it. First, then, there is abundance of a calcareous sandy loam, of good quality, which is ready at once for cultivation, producing excellent crops of vegetables, and suitable for clover and other plants. Then there is what is known as humus — a rich, dark, brownish black soil, tlio product of decayed vegetable-matter, in certain localities mixed with alluvium. It is of variable dei>ths, and rests on a clay subsoil, which itself overlies trap and concretionary Hmestone. There is also a poor gi-avelly soil, with a thin coating of vegetal )le moidd, wliich, however, bears large timber of a superior quality, coarse grass, and but little underwood. The poverty of tliis soil is the consequence of its inability to retain moisture. The rains percolate tlirough it, and drain off into lagoons, leaving the hot sun to desiccate the surfiice. In some localities this may bo remedied by irrigation, for which the numberless streams flowing through the country oiler great facilities. On the clay subsoil, springs are numerous, aiid the water excellent. i| t, ( \ .> '* f II i 304 URITISn NORTH AMERICA. A romarkablo foatiiro of tlio island is tho mimoroiH lakes, fring'ed by graceful trees — tlio willow, aldir, aK2)en, wliich lie embosomed among tlic Tiiountaiiis, and whicli, in one part, aro so numerous lliat, aiilcil by two deep inlets of tho sea, they form an almost imbrokon cliain of water communication across it. The climate of Vancouver is pec\iliar. Tlif. isothermal line, which runs througli Vienna, linis- sels, liondon, nnd New York, passes considcral.ly to the north of it, and though undoul»t('(Ily its climate is healthy, and the temperature allows nC tho growth of many of tho productions of soutlu-ni ^■ Europe, tiiere is, with a hot sun, a peculiar sharp- ness and keenness in the air, in tlie sliadc or at night, which a stranger would not e.\])c(t, and which makes him glad to draw his cloak round liini, except when tho wind blows from tlie west. Tliis arises from two causes. The island has on tlirco sides lofty snow-capped mountains, over whicli tlu- winds frofpiontly blow ; and, in the second place, tiie waters wliich How round it are chilled by coniiiijj^ from tho icy sea, and by the large admixture of melted snow which runs into tliem. Still, as a whole, tlie climate is mild, the summers genial, anil the winters not more severe than those in ]']nglaiKl. At intervals of several years, severe winters occur, but even then not of so long duration as tlioso of England. As a rule, the climate of Vancouver and tho aoutli of England mav be considered similar. ('0111- pared with Canada, that of Vancouver, with r.ganl to mildness, has greatly the advantage. The raiigo of temperature, in tho same year, in Vancouver was 48i^; Canada, 138^. Tho thermometer showed Van- CLIMATE. 305 couvor's hiji^hcst, 72°; lowest, 2^\°. ranadn, hlp^liost, 102^ ; lowest, 3G'' below /oro. Tho suiuukt of Viin- roiivor is rather longer, ami tho winter very much •.hoi'tor, than that of Canada ; whih* it has an advantaji^o over that of En^^^and by heinss variable. In EiiLrland rain falls on an average once in two days ; in Vancouver, onee in three days. It is sufliciently hot to ripen Indian corn in most years, but not with tho same certainty tliat it ripens (111 tho eastern side of the Kocky Mountains, where, altliough tho summer is much shorter, tho heat ia immensely greater. • Thunder-storms are rare. At times distant thun- der is heard, but the electrical discharge seldom takes place over Vancouver. It must be understood that there is a considerable dilference in the temperature of tho coast and tho interior, tho heat of the latter being much the gi-eatest, and tho (rold probably more severe. The cold of winter commences about tho same time that it does in England, towards the end of December, except in unusually severe winters, as tliat of 18-10, when it commenced on tho 27th of November; but the following year, 18.00, was fine througliout. Again, in 18o9, severe cold set in in November, and continued for some months, with heavy falls of snow; but from March, 1800, the weather was mild, and e(mtinuod so through the winter and into the spring of 1801. The summer of this latter } ear was very hot and dry, and the early autumn lino and clear, with occasional cold south- easterly winds and heavy rains. Tho following description of tho month of ^lay is from a journal kept at Victoria at its first settle- I * < ) i ' 306 BnmSII NORTH AMERICA. :li mont: — "1.5 fino clear duys, 12 ovorrast, J ralnv.j Maximum tcmporaturo, 7'.)^ ; minimum, ;;'.) I'ahf. Ist. riaiiis covered witli verdure ; tho turncup lilv heart'n-caso, crow's-foot, j(m[)rint; wheat and peas risinjj^, early potatoes above i^ioiin.i. 4th. Campanula and lupin comin;^ into llow.r, will cherry and serviee-berry cominj^ into blitsso!n, and wild vetch lloworin}^ in warm ]»laf('s. Dth. Apple-trees blossomin;^, strawberries furniiii;;-. !itli. Potatoes, which were planted in March and April, comin{^ up. 12tli. Early beans in bloom. ls;li. Wild rose coming into bloom. 2oth. Strawbcn-it's ripening. Gist. Wild gooseberries ri])eninL;-.'' ()nlv in tho southern parts of England woidd a gardeut'r's journal show tho season so advanced. It ■ ' An abundance of game is found in every part of tho island. Of wild animals, there are bears, racoon?, mink, and deer of several kinds, often in lai-ge hcrils: the puma, wolf, etc. Grouse, woodcock, snipe, and an infinito variety of wild fowl, as well as most of tho birds found in North America, frequent its shores. The timber of the island is particularly line: tho Douglas pine is the most valuable of its tribo, and the timber trade must, in time, bo of consider- able importance. Its trees are especially adaptitl for making masts and spars. It was from henco tliat the fine flagstaff in Kew Gardens was sent. A scarcity of timber is already felt in many countries to tho south, so that numerous markets will bo found for all that Vancouver can hereafter supply. Already several houses are actively pushing the timber trade. »■ I' 5 TIMBER — FISHEUIE9. ',}0', Ilio conifcrci (or cono-l)earin}j^ family^ prodomi'nato. ImDnfJC tht'in aro, tlio Douj::la8 |>ino, Canada l»alsam I no, wliito or W'oyinoulli pint', hfinlock pine, Mack ;iruco, nolilo fir, red codar, connnon cyja-css (.t'dar, |in oak; and of tli(» en'cacea;, tho arbiitns. Tlio Uritisli Government aro already imj^ortin^^ spars from I'iionce for men-of-war. There is a j^reat demand in :;i(j island, also, for timber for fire-wood, house- iiildin", feiuin^, and b]ii[)-buildin;^. Some saw-mills liiavo Ijeen already erected, but more aro rc(|uired, and laeii to work them. There is an abimdanco of hotli frcsli and salt-water :.^li. Salmon aro very fine, and are caiij^ht in groat i;iiantitio3 by the natives, who hriiig them for sale to I'iie Victoria market. Most of the tribes live entirely on tish. Some establishments have already been harmed for catching and curing salmon, but only on a limited scale com[)ared to that of which the trade is Hisco[)tible. Cod, sturgeon, and herrings are caught ia great c^uantities, and will lintl ready sale in Chili, I'eru, China, and other countries bordering on tho Pacific, But more especially may tho whale fishing be prosecuted with advantage from Escj^ui- iiiault. Within a few davs' sail, shoals of whales are imnul, and it is considerably nearer to IJehring's Straits, the northern limits of tho I'acitlc whaling .'round, than is England to J>avis Straits. JJtjtli ilio seas fro(|uented by the "right whale" and the >l)t'rm whale can be easily reached from Vancouver. Hitherto San Francisco has chiefly been frerpiented by both English and American whalers fishing ip i i 308 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. :l <,i.. the Pacific, l)iit Esqiiimaiilt offers superior ailvan- tag^os, cspociaily for those bound northward. No harbour can compote with it as lioad-quart-Ts for vessels enelievo that Nanaimo foal will prove equal to the ]^ii<^-lish, with markets (.lose at hand, the profits must become very gi'eat. C\)})per has been found in Vancouver, and there are indicatiims of the existence of iron, usually exist- ing in the neighbourhood of coal, but, from want of liiliour, no attempt has as yet been made to work either one or other. Land is sold in Vancouver by the ji^ovenimont at an upset price of 4s. 2(1. per acre, but tiio lludscm's P)a_v and Pug'ft Sound companies, which still hold land, demand £1 per acre. Suburban h)ts of excel- lent land, of tive acres eacli, can also be rented from the government at £.') per acre, with the power of puvcliasing at a iixed sum. This is an advantage to market gardeners, who can get a high price for the"r produce. IMale IJritish subjects may al^o [ire-empt — tliat is, a single man may oecui>y loO a(,'i'es of unsurveyed land, and a married man liOO acres, Avith ten acres additional for each chiM, on payment of a fee of Hs. Id. at the oilice of the survevor-^'i-neral. TIh' claimant must describe the H-avl in \si'iting, and it must rim in a certaiu dinctioii. lie holds the land, till it is surveyed, without jayment ; and T\iien the survey is conqdeted he must pay -Is. 2d. per acre into the land-oilico. If he occupies land f 310 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. ; » li ■ St il i ■ :, already surveyed, ho must pay 4s. 2d. per an-e, ini three annual instalments — Is. Id. per acre, within a| year of the claim being recorded. Is. Id. at \]\o cikI of two years, and the balance of 2s. at the end of j three years. The interior of the island has hitherto bi^on only partially explored, so that it is difficult to stale the amount of good land fit for agricultural imrposcs. Those first arriving at Victoria with the intciitidii of farming, and expecting to find an agricultural distiii t, are disappointed, lieautifid as is the scenery, to the eye of the practical farmer its character is not attractive. T'^ndulating pine-clad hills, rising ino- gularlv (me bevcmd anotlier, with narrow vallcvs between them, such as are seen in tlio neighbourlio .] of Yictorir.^ though picturesque objects, do not convey a promise of farming capability. >Still tlure is a comparatively level peninsula in the neigli1)oiir- hood of Victoria, containing some 200 scpuiro luiks, where there are several excellent farms and f^liocD stations, and there is much good land also in the Cowitchan district, as well as in otiier directions. The crops raised are usually wheat, barley, oats, and peas ; green crops, turnips (Swedes), manurl- Avurzel, vetches, potatoes, and all kinds of vegetal »!'■<. ''The average production of wheat is 2-) to -in bushels per acre, G 1 lbs. to the bushel ; of oats, in bushels per acre, weiglit .'36 to 46 lbs. ; potato(^s, 2iHl bushels per acre, and of very sujierior quality." Horses, oxen, and muh^s are employed in the field and farmyard : the latter are especially pri/od. Pigs and poultry are easily reared. ISheep, the South Down especially, thrive, and the meat is AGRICULTTTIIAL ADVANTAGES. 311 '11 excellent and of the finest flavour : the quality of the wool is good. Tlioro are upwards of 5, (JOG sheep on the island. The average increase is 90 per cent. Herds of c:ittle, whicli have escaped from the farms, exist in a wild state in the mountains. l*ractically, the colony of A'ancouver's Island was only found(;d in 18o9. Since then its progress has been wonderful. In l.SGl the Khi[ipiiig was 101,721 tons; in ISG2 it had increased to 190,000 tons. In 1801 th(5 imports in value were 2,.'>;}o,000 dollars, and in 18(5.'} they had increased to u,.j.j.3,000. To show tiio immense benefit derived Ly the mother country from this colony alone, it is sufPuient to state that the imports which in 1801 were 5 1 G, 000 dollars, in 1802 amounted to G9 1,000 dollars, being an in- crease of 178,000 dollars. Another very gratifying fact is, that the imports from England, whi( h in the lirst three months of 18G2 were 120,000 didlars, had in the first three months of 180.'} readied 400,000 (lolhirs, being an incrc>ase of more than oOO per cent., while the increase of imports from other countries was only G."* per cent. The Admiralty establishment is increasing at Escjuimault, and merchants are now storing goods in large quantities at A'ictoria, instead of, as formerly, at 8an Francisco, for the markets of Vancouver and British Columbia, and the islands of the Pacific. i • V 1 ' ' I' If ' s* '= V i '■ ■ li Vi .^4 4 t I .J ! ,; . !'i CHAPTER XVI. I- JVA SCOTIA AXD CAl'E BRETON. Eastern provincf^s of British North America— Nova Scotia— It"! pliyical geography — Mineral wealth— Cape Breton — Koil and oliniato— Tho Mag. dulen Islands — Salile Island — History of Nova Scotia and Capo Breton- Population — Chief towns : Haiifax, Pictou, etc. Canada, from its size and importance, claims tlie fii'st place amon<^st the British colonies in America. Its close connection with the North-west territory led us to sjieak next of British Central North America, British Columbia, and Vancouver's Island. We now retrace our steps, and come to the eastern provinces of British America. These are Nova JScotia with Capo Breton, New Brunswick, Prince Edwavil's Island, and Newfoundland, with Labrador. Tiio vast colonial possessions of Great Britain do nut contain a more hardy, brave, and loyal race tlian that inhabiting these eastern provinces. Nova Scotia, lying between 4.3° and 4G^ in»vth latitude, and Gl^ and 67^ west longitude, has the advantage of an almost insular position, combiucil with tliat of the mainland — the low, sandy neck of land which unites it to its sister province, New Brunswick, being scarcely eight miles across. It MOUNTAINS — RIVEES. 313 etretehes from north-east to south-west; is about 280 miles long, with a width varying from 50 to 100 miles, and has an area of 1G,000 square miles,., equal to about two-thirds the area of Ireland. It is calcu- lated that about one-fifth jiart consists of lakes, rivers, inlets of the sea, marshes, and land otherwise unfit for tillage. The physical features of the province may be briefly described. In the first place, the coast-line is remarkable for its deep indentations, which form excellent harbours on every side, of which that of Halifax, on the south coast, is one of the finest in the world, and though in so northern a latitude is seldom or never blc^cked up with ice. Although there are no mountains, and only two ridges of ]iigh hills, there is not more than about half a mile of perfectly level ground in any direction — the rest being beautirully undulating, and affording, with the aid of its woods, lakes, and streams, the most lovely and picturesque views. One range skirts the Bay of Fundy on the north coast, and the other the west coast between St. Mary's Bay and Argylo, Tlio highest elevation is that of Ardoise llill or Arthur's {Seat, only 810 feet above the level of the sea. Tlioro are twenty-six harbours of considerable extent, nearly half of which are capable of receiving sliips of tlie line. Its rivers are very numerous. Tlio yhul)enacadio, the Annapolis, the AVest, and the Middle rivers are navigable for large vessels for some distance from their mouths. The other rivers, though not available for ships of heavy tonnage, are valuable as aflording facilities for irrigation and for intercommunication between different parts of the colony. The scenery 'J 314 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. il 1^ k . i.r < > !■: i 1 « it 4 I - on the banks of many of tliese streams is most picturesque and ])eautiful. The lakes, thoui;'li numerous, are not larp^e. TIut, too, are serviceable as increasing^ tlie facilitit-s (jf water communication in various districts, and u'ld much to the picturesque beauty of tlie scenery. The two largest are lakes liossignol and George. The mineral wealth of the province is cunsidcrahle. Coal is the most important, an extensive bed running througli the colony. Iron, copper, and lead ores arc found. Gold has been discovered in sufUcient (jiian- tities to attract diggers. Its grey granite has long been in demand for millstones, and its sandstone lor grindstones, known in the United States as "Nova Scotia blue grits." llich in its almost inexhaustiltlc coal mines, its agricultural produce, its timber, and numerous other productions, Nova Scotia is able to support a much larger population than at present inhabits it. Care Bretox, a large island on the north-east of Nova Scotia, and separated from it by the Strait of Canso, a mile wide, now forms part of the same pro- vince. It is almost divided into two isl'uids by a remarkable inlet of tlie sea called Bras d'Or, which ramifies in every direction, and forms numberless coves, bays, and land-locked havens. The inner end forms a magnificent lake, 50 miles in length by 20 in breadth, navigable throughout, with from 12 to ('.' fathoms of water. The chief entrance is by a jiassage called the Great Bras d'Or, 25 miles long, from two to tliree wide, and sixty fathoms deep. Few parts of the world offer a more superb sheet of water for M ^s IS most CAPE BRETOX. ni5 inland navigation by largo ships ; it at the sarao time gives the benefit of water communication to tlie villages and farmts on the island. The isthmus which unites the two jiarts of tho island is only 8,000 fe(!t across ; another deep bay (that of St. I'oter's) running uj), and almost joining tho ]3ras d'Or. The whole seaboard has also numerous indentations and luirljours. On the north and north-west thoro are continuous ranges of mountains, which reach, at ISmokey Cu])e, an elevation above the sea of 1,800 feet. In tho northern divisions of tho island tho land is generally low, the highest elevation being 800 feet. Tho south- west coast, opposite tho nuiiniand, from being well sheltered, is consequently tho most thickly inhabited. The houses and farm buildings peep picturesquely through oi)enings in tho forest. On the north-west the hills are bleak and bare, and the coast ccmsists of precipitous clills, which give little hope of escape to the hapless mariner whose vessel may be driven against them. Ten miles from North Cape, and in the direct entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is the snuill island of St. Paul's — about a mile long and three- quarters of a mile wide, with three hills in the centre rising uj)wards of 200 feet above the level of the ocean. Numberless were the ships cast away on this rock, till a lighthouse was erected to warn tho mariners of their danger. It is in a direct line with Cape liay, tho south-west point of Newfoundland. Cape Breton is about 100 miles long, 80 wide, and contains an area of 4,087 square miles, exclusive of the portion covered by lakes and rivers. Of this no ■ > I 1 1 . ; '' ' , ) 'V I I J' !i I m ■pp^^ 316 BRITISH NORXn AMERICA. I less than 120 square miles is known to contain veins of the best coal, easily M-orkable, extendiii«^ I'roiu Mire Bay to tlie chief entrance of the Bras d'Or. On the west also are coal-helds. These are now extensively worked. There are also immense deposits of g-j-psum, llie lower part being fit for building pui'poses, ui^d tlio upper for improving certain soils, of which great quantities are used in the United States. There aro numerous salt springs, especially valuable, in tlio neighbourliood of the ocean fisheries of Nortli America. Copper, iron, and lead are also fuuud in largo quantities. The soil of the island is generally fertile; aLing the banks of the rivers it is deep and rich, and in many places, where the granite boulders are not too thick, or can be removed, it is lit fur the cultivation of any crops. Tlie climate is similar to that of the ncighbourinij; continent — rather moister on its western side, perhaps, from its greater exposure to ocean fogs, but it is as healthy as can bo desired. Its summer heat is not so great, nor its winter cold so piercing, as that of tho greater part of British North America, but in utlur respects there is little diirercnce. Indigenous slirubs begin to blossom in June, and apple-trees in July, at which time strawberries aro in perfection. Hay is made in July, liaspborries, currants, and gooseberries do not ripen till August, wheat in September, and apples and plums towards the end of October, thus showing tluit tho feeas(Mis resemble those of Scotland rather than tho south of England. SABLE ISLAND. 317 I I Tlio ^Magflalon Islands Ixdonp; to Nova Scotia, and ai'o distant from tho north- w(';>t point of C'ape lireton eisrliteon leaorues, and from Newfoundland tliirtv-six leagues; they form a continuous chain of forty-two miles. Amherst Island, tho most southern, ia alxmt five miles across, and has an elevation in tho centre of 2(>0 feet, and a harhour into whick vessels drawing eleven feet of water can enter. Alxmt 'JOO families, cliiefly French Acadians, employed in lisliing, live on them. Sable Island is the most remarkahle and dangerous in these seas. It is ahout eighty-live miles distant from Cape Canso. It may be descrilxnl as a low, bow-sliai)ed sand-bank, thirty miles long and one and a half wide, with shoals and sand-banlcs extend- ing far away on either side. In one phice the fine sand has been driven up to form a hill 1(»() feet in height. Not a tree nor a shrub exists u[)on it larger than a cranberry or whortleberry ])ush. In other places it is covered with bent and sea-weed, on which cattle can barely subsist. A curious feature in this island is a lalvo, eighteen miles long and about a mile wide, which a sand-bank separates from the ocean. A storm once forced a piussage, through which •'•essels passed in and out, but another storm closed it up, and two American vessels, which had ventured within. Mere caught as in a trap. At one time a large herd of cattle ranged over the island, but they were wantonly destroyed, and were succeeded bv some horses, which have become perfectly wild. Tliey, however, can be shot, and serve as food for shipwrecked seamen. A super- intendent, with Boverai men, supplied with means j I ^ irr^"wrv??^T''arr*-* ^1 'S.. 1'*' m I? * I ■ 318 BlilTISH NORTH AMERICA. for savinj^ life, reside on tlie island, placed tliovf hy tlio f2^(»vernniont of Nova Scotia. One superintcndt-nt, Mr. Hodgson, lived there for forty years, and l)r(»u;^'lit up a large family. He had a farm, with a few ( ows, oxen, pigs and poultry, and four horses which liad been broken in. Tlio coarse grass ailbrded suHiciont hay for their food in the winter. Drift-wood sup- plied abundance of fuel. A good variety of wiM fowl resort to the island, and give ample sport to the inhabitants. Seals also come in great numbers, and are killed for the sake of their skins and Idublicr, the sale of which goes towards the funds of ilie institution bv which the establishment on the island is supported. This establishment has been tlic means of saving the lives of many hundreds of shipwrecked mariners. It is difficult to imagine a more desolate spot for a permanent abode. Often, during a storm, pieces of wreck and human bc^us, long hidden by the sand, are thrown up ; and the ceaseless roar of the ocean, as it thunders on the lonj; thin line of sand, is almost overpowering, while tho whole island vibrates with its successive blows, and seems to be giving warning that the whole mass of sand is about to be carried away into the boiling ocean. The ilrst attempt to colonize Nova Scotia was mado in the year 1598 by the French, who des})at( hed an expedition with a body of convicts, under the ]\Iarquis de la lloche. The manpiis, however, did little more than land forty of the wretched prisoners on Sahio Island and return to France. Seven years were allowed to pass, when, probably owing to applica- tions made by some of the friends of tho wretched SETTLEMENT OF NOVA SCOTIA. 319 y.cn, the pilot who liad aocompanietl the marquis luiis sent to ljrin<^ thoiii back to Franco. After anilcrgoing" incrcdihlo liardsliips, twelve out of tho \i)v\y were found alive. In 1(50 I a second expedition, hinder l)e ^fonti, was sent to form settlements on 'Jie coast by the Frencli, who had p^ven tho name \j.radia to tlio wliole of it, including also New Bruns- wick and part of Elaine. A few only remained, but they were finally expelled by tlu) colonists of Xcw Kiif»land, who claimed tho territory as b(lon4, a strong force was sent by Oliver Cromwell, under Major Sedgtjwick, who succeeded in gaining possession of it ; the French Bottlers — Acadians, as they were called, — however, continuing to pursue their avocations without much molestation. ,ii I 320 BRITISrr NORTH AMERICA. I-' V v-l" li i ■ Prosperity was dawning on th province whon, hy the treaty of Breda, it was a{i:ain restored to FraiK »>. For twenty years the Acadians were nninolcstcil, till on the renewal of liostiliti«'S in lOSii, Ton Koyal was capturod by the enterprisinaliamas. Ho was knitj^hted by James ii., ami led several important expeditions fitted out by Eng- land or t]ie colony. The Jh-itisli and French colonists wore contlmially engaj^ed in conilicts, till, by the treaty of li\s\vi(k. the colony was once more jdaced under the rrtiuh government. The French did not hold it long-. A new expedition was fitted out in 1710 for its con- quest — the leaders, however, exacting a guarantee from the Crown that if captured it should luvcr again bo restored to France. The expedition was successful. Port Poy-al was captured, and its namo changed to Annapolis, in honour of (iueeu Aun».'. It was formally ceded to England in 17 11, at tlio peace of Utrecht. As was too frefpiently the custom in those days, England paid no attention to tlic colony, till it was evident that the French (nn- templatcd regaining possession of it. After tlio peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, a number of disbanded troops and other settlers were sent out there with a P IIISTOKY or CAPE BRETON. 321 povomor, tho TTon. Edward CornwalliH, who landed on tlic wpot on wliit'h Halifax now Htands. Tlio town of llaliiax soon roso into importanro and bocaiiio tliL' (iqiital of the colony, aiid its harltoiir tho mosj imi»ortant luivul station on tho coast of North America. Tho history of Cape Breton is not of less interest than that of Nova Scotia. In 171 1 a few fishcr- iiK'ii from Nova IScotia settled there, and in winter tliu fur-traders and fur-liunters canio across from tho mainland to obtain furs. For tho jnirjH^se of extending:; tlie cod-tishery, and commanding the navij^'-ation of the 8t. Lawrence, liouis xiv., in KiLM), more completely colonized it. Tho strong fortress of Louisburg was built on the south-east coast, and named after liim. Scarcely did tho French fancy tlicmselves secure in their new fortress, than th(y began to instijj^ate tho Indians to harass the British settlers on the mainland. Finally, they and tlicir Indian allies attacked Animpolis, lield by the British, wlio \\ere supporttid by other ljodi(»s of Inilians. The garrison of Annapolis oljtained aid from the government of Massachusetts, and a savage warfare was (.-arried on for some years, Avliit'h only terminated with the expulsion of the French from the wh(do of Acadia, and was the prelude of tho downfall of their ])ower in North America. liouisburg was considered almost impn^gnable. It was two luiles and a half iu circumference, and .surrounded with a ram];)art of stone from thirty to thii1y->ix feet liigh, and a ditch eighty feet wide, except near the sea, where the ahullowness of the r i ^ 322 BRITISn NOBTn A^IEBICA. 1 =(•1 i 4- water and numerous rocks made it inaccessible. It was flanked by bastions and batteries, containing embrasures for 148 guns. At the entrance of the harbc r was an isLind, on which was planted a thirty-gun battery of 28-pounders, and at the end of the harbour was the grand battery of twenty-eight 42-pounders. At the west gate, the principal entrauco to the town, was another circidar battery of sixteci: guns — making it, after Quebec, the strongest fortress in North America. Its garrison consisted of 4,000 men, including regulars and militia. Yet, strong as the fortifications of Louisburg were deemed, its capture was efl'ected by Governor Shirley, of Massachusetts, and IMr. Pepperal, a mer- chant of New England, who drew up the plan of attack. Mr. Pepperal was appointed general, having about 4,000 provincial troops under him. Many ol these were followers of "VVhitfield (then preaehii.g in New England), who believed that by the destruction of the French, popery would bo driven from the country. They thus looked upon the expedition somewhat in the light of a crusade. The expedition was joined by a squadron, under Commodore Warren, who received orders from home to proceed to its support. The besieged held out for forty-nine days, sustaining five fierce assaults, in which the English lost 101 men, and the French .MOO. Finally, driven from battery to battery by the provincials, tJie French were compelled to surrender. Pepperal was created a baronet, as was Commodore Warren. Sevtral largo French ships were afterwards captured, and the Island of fcit. John was also taken by the English. CAPTURE OF LOUISBURG. 323 [accessible. It ies, containing ntrance of the ivas planted a d at the end of )f twenty-eight neipal entrance ttery of sixteei: Tongest fortress isisted of 4,000 of Lonisbiirg ed by Governor 'opperal, a nier- iip tlio plan of general, having him. Many of en preaehii.g in the destruction riven from the the expedition The expedition odore AV^arren, proceed to its Ifortv-nino dayji, lich the Engli.-li Finally, driven ials, the French sral was created lirren. Sovtral captured, and taken by tho It has often been remarked, that what British sohliers win by their bravery, British statesmen lose by tlieir diplomacy. Such was the case in this instance, and the New Englanders had the vexation of seeing their gallantly-won acquisition restored to France in exchange for Madras, at the peace of Aix-la-Chapello, in 1749. The French, knowing its value, and the inlhience it gave them over the fisheries of tho Gulf of St. Lawrence and Newfoundland, still further fortified it. In June, 17.38, it contained a garrison of 0,000 regular troops, 3,000 militia, and 1,300 Indians, while the harb(mr was secured by six ships of tlie line and live frigates, tliree of which were sunk across tho entrance. To attack tho fortress, an expedition, consisting of 14,000 men and lol sail, was fitted out under Lord Amherst, under whom was serving the gallant General Wolfe. In sjnte of a heavy sea rolling on the shore, tlio troops were landed under a hot fire, and succeeded in capturing several batteries, the guns of which were turned against the enemy. Admiral r)0scawen meantime, with GOO men in boats, entered the harbour and destroyed one sliip of the line, and towed out aiu^tlier, in tiio most spirited manner. Several breaches being made practicable, tho French governor olic^red to capitulate, but tho terms were refused. He was com- pelled, with the garrison, to suiTcnder as prisoners of war. The Ih-itish loss was only 400 killed and wounded ; tho French, besides tho fortress, lost tive "r six line-of-battle ships and several frigiitcs. The Knglish Government, fearing tluit Louisburg might again fall into the hands of tlu> French, c()m[detely dismantled it, in which state it has since remained. i 1 I ! I i I U f I '■ r. 111 m: 324 BRITISH NORTH AMI! RICA. Very little attention was paid to Capo Brofon till after the American revolution, when several families of royalists settled on it. It was then sepa- rated from Nova Seotia, and Sydney, its pr(s('iit capital, was built. A1>out 1800 a consideralile iiinui- gration from the Ilii^hlands of Scotland took placo, and the first settlers from thence being followed })>• their relations, the population has yet further been increased by a hardy and industrious race, avIio, however imperfectly tht^y may cidtivate the soil on their native hills, prove excellent cohmists. In 1820, Cape lireton, somewhat to the annoyance of its inhabitants, was reunited to Nova Scotia, with the power of sending two members to the House of Assembly at Halifax. It still continues a county of Nova Scotia, and we believe that the inhabitants have become perfectly reconciled to the arrangement — indeed, as the means of interconmiunication im- prove, it will probably be found advantageous to unite the whole group into one province. The g(n'ernment of Nova Scotia is administoroJ by a lieutenant-governor, aided by a resp(msil)lo Executive Council of eight members, a Legislative Council of twenty members, and a House of Assembly of lifty-ono members, elected by householders or landholders. The population may be estimated at 300,000. Of these .),000 are coloured, and there are nearly l,.Vio Indians remaining out of the (mce numerous trUn.- whicli fornK'ily inliabited it. The proportion, ]m»\\- ever, is greater than exists in the United States and in some t)ther Ih'itish jirovinces. In 1859, tho revenue was £17.>,957, and the HALIFAX — PICTOU. 325 expenditure £172,048. The value of imports was £1,G20,191, and exports £1,377,826. Halifax, the capital, is a handsome town, built on the shore of its maguificeut harliour, and rising gradually from the water. It was named after Lord Halifax, who founded tlio settlement after the peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748. The harhour is one of the ll.nost in the possession of Great JU-itain. It has an area of ahout ten square miles, ailbrding anchor- ago to fully 1,000 shii)s, and is open at all seasons, the navigation Leing scarcely ever impeded by ice. Halifax is the ju'incipal Ih'itish naval station in North America, and the Government have here an extensive dockyard. It is considered both by naval and military men as a very pleasant station, the hospitality of the inhabitants being proverbial. The city is about two miles long, and half a mile broad, with wide streets crossing each other, and numerous wharfs along the water's-edge. There are upwards of 2,000 houses, with a population of about 2.3,000. Tlij pi'ivate houses have a handsome a})pearance, and tlio public buildings are substantial edilices; the Province JJuilding, in tlu> centre of the city, being one of the finest in Ih-ltisli North Anuu'ica. It contains the chambers of the Council and JiCgis- Litivi^ Assembly, the Supreme Court, and iill tlie provincial olfices. The lulmiral's house is an auti(jue- loohing mansion, of a baronial character seldtmi to be seen in America. Pictou, next to Halifax, is the most important place in Nova Scotia on account of its line hiirl)our, situated at the entrance of the Culf of St. Lawreiue, and the rich coal lields in its neighbourhood. The . I t i». It BRITISH NORTH AMERICA, M ; f f t |f!( :« y :tl harLour is, however, occasionally frozen up in tlie winter. The population is from (i,0()0 to 7,0U0. It is a free warohousinj^ port, and lias an extensive trado in tinil)or, coal, and lish. A l-ailway, the commence- ment of the Great Intercolonial Line, now runs from Halifax to the town of Truro, at the head of the Mines I'asin. It will be continued on to Pictou, thus unitin<^ the northern and southern parts of the ]»ro- vince. From Truro the Grand Trunk llaihvay will run along the isthmus, through the northern part of New Brunswick, to liiviere du Loup on the shores of the St. Lawrence. Another railway runs from Halifax to Windsor, about forty-live mih's iu length, and through a fertile part of the country. The fjrmation of the Great Intercolonial liailway from Halifax to Ottawa, and thence, in course of time, through the vast prairies of British Central North America, across the Ilocky ^Mountains to New AVestminster, the capital of liritish Columbia, may bo looked upon as an undertaking certainly to bo accomi»lished. The conclusion of even the lirst })()r- tion will add greatly to the importance of Ilaliiax, and to the prosperity of the province at large. In enumerating the towns of Nova Scotia, Svdnev, the capital of Cape Breton, must not ho omittetl. It is hni'ly-situated on .an elevated tongue of iand, a few miles to the south of the entrance of the Bras d'Or. On the east side there is a basin three miles iu circumference, and on the west is the nuiiu channel of the inlet, which forms a fine harbour for large ships. Sydney is becoming the Newcastle of the Atlantic coast of North America, as Nanaimo, in Vancouver's Island, is of the Pacific. It is CLIMATE. 327 I V5 romarlcahle that coal slioi-lJ thus be found at two opposite points of the continent, where it is most eorviceiible for the requirements of man. Louis1)ur<^, -which, as has l>eon narrated, was cap- tured from tlie French in 17 lo, and a^ain in 17.38, is now a mere heap of ruins with a few iishermeu's liuts scattered about. The otlior chief towns of Nova Scotia are Liverpool and Lunenburg, Yarmoutli at tlie entrance of the ]5ay of Fundy, and Annapolis on the eastern side of tlie siime bay. At Windsor there is a college, and several schools. The climate of Nova Scotia is as healthy as that of any part of America. The temperature is milder in Avinter than that of Quebec, and the heat is less intense in suumier ; the air is pure, tliough sea- fogs occasionally pass over some districts. The longevity of a large number of its inhabitants is proof of its general salubrity. Its orcliards arc very fine, and pbims, pears, Cjuinces, and clierries grow in pro- fusion, while peaches and grapes ripen, in ordinary seasons, in the open air. The autumn, as in most parts of North America, is a most delicious season ; the severe weather of winter seldom sets in until the end of Decem1)er, and a thaw generally occurs early in January. Indeed, the climaio is much like that of Canada, modiiied by the atmosphere of the ocean. 1 (^ 3 1^ I I ! 1 ': ■ It ■ CHAPTER XVII. NEW BRUNSWICK. 1- Its extent and boundarioa— Division into counties— Prtnoipal towns- Numerous rivers and Ltkps— History — Government — Pldiifatiuii — Niiiui;il productions — Climate and soil — Forests — Fiijhi>ries — MiueraJd — iloru und fauna— Aborigines — Regulations for the sale ut laud. New Brunswick is tlio link in the chain of pro- vinces botwoen Nova Scotia and Canada. It is situated between tho ])arallels of 45° and 48^ nortli latitude, and the meridians of (53" Ao and tiJs^oO' west longitude. It is hounded by tho Day of Cluileiir and part of Lower Caiuida on tho north ; by tlie Gulf of St. Lawrence and Nova Scotia ou the east ; by the Buy of Fundy on tho south ; o.nd the State of Maine and Canada on tlie west. Tho Eiver liistigouche runs between it and Canada, and the rivers St, Jolin and St. Croix, between it and tho State of ^Maine. It contains 17,()77,oG() acres, or 27,020 square milcfj. Of this quantity upwards of 0,000, 000 acres have been alienated by the Crown, leaving: 7,500,000 acres unsold, of which 250,000 aro surveyed and ready fur settlers. Tho physical features presented by New Bruns- wick are long", bold, sw(dling undulations, now rising into actual mountains, and now sinking into deep 't COUNTIES — TOWNS. 329 valleys, or sproadinj^ into plains covcrod with mag- nilicont for(3sts and intersected by inniinierablo rivers and lakes. Tlie northern shore is low and sandy, and covered with trees of stunted {^n-owtli ; but along the course of the liistigouche the scenery is very fine, with lofty pine-clad mountains, beautiful gdeus and valleys, and numberless lakes and streams. New IJrunswick is divided into countit's, each of which has a shire-town, and is subdivided into parishes. They are as follows : — COfXTT. SHIRE-TOWK. Ristiffouche Dulhousio. (iloucestor Hiithursl. >"')rthuml)erlaiid ... Newcastle. Kent Riehibucto. Westmoreland Horchefitcr. Albert lliilshoniugh. St. John's St. John. Cou>fTY. Siitui: rowy. Charlitte St. AiKirew'a. K'litt's Kinjjston. (Queen's (iiij^.'tuwn. Sunbury Burton. York Frederieton, Carlt'ton WiMxNtui'k. Victoria Colebrooke, > ■* 1:1 I < ( ^ Northumberland is the largest of these counties, Sunbury tlie smallest. Amongst tlio most wealthy ant. John, 4.j() miles in leii<2:tli, and naviguhh^ HI miles up to Fredericton. Steamers run up to Woodstock, 02 miles farther, and wlion the water is hi^h to the Grand Falls, 2:20 miles from the sea. A])ove the falls the river liiis hccn navij;ato( by a steamer to ^fadawaska. Tliat river aj^ain is naviji^ablo for 30 miles to liako Temiscouta; and the U2)per end of that lake (27 miles lonj^ and of great depth) is only 18 miles from the Eiver St. Lawrence at Trois I'istoles. The Grand Lake, 30 miles long, is also connected with the 8t. John. Tile Salmon Eiver, navigable for IG miles, falls into the Grand Lake, with which French and ]Maguai)it Lakes are also connected. The Washado- moak Luke, also navigable, is 2o miles long, and tho stream from it enters the St. John 40 miles from tlie sea. The Kennebeccasis Iviver, falling into the St. John, is navigable up to llampton, a distance of 2o miles. I-^arge vessels are built here, and still larger ones on the Oromocto, which is navigable for 20 miles from its mouth in the St. John liiver, 72 miles from the sea. Tlie l*eticodiac, the Kichibucto, and the Miramichi, are all navigable from 15 to .'jO miles from their mouths. There are many other fine rivers navigable for boats, which, with numerous snuiU lakes, form a net- work of water communi- cation in every direction throughout the province. The Bay of Chaleur may be described as one vast haven, 90 miles long, and from 15 to 30 broad, without rocks or shoals, and with line harbours on either side. ■I ■ ■s 1 li 332 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. When first peopled by the French, Now Bnin^wifk formed part of Acadia, and remained in tlieir posses- sion till it was finally ceded to Great Britain by tlio treaty of Utroelit in 171. 'J. Not, however, tillFrcnih authority was finally overthrown in Nortli America in 17J'.> had the Eng-lish peaceable possession of thu province. In ITHo its present limits were lixcd. and it was separated from Nova Scotia, of whicli it hail up to that time formed a part. The American IJcv.j- lution brought numerous loyalists as settlers to its shores, and the paternal government of Colonel Carleton contributed greatly to its prosperity. Its advancement has ever since been steady. Its greatest misfortune was the terrific lire at Miraiui* hi. in 182.'), which extended over (),0U() square miles of forests, wlu'ii two towns, full of stores and pro\isioiis, 500 human beings, several vessels, numerous herds of cattle, and countless numbers oi wild animals, were totally consumed. Property to the extent of a quarter of a million was destroyed : £10,000 wore sent from Europe for the relief of the sullerers. The government is modelled i fter that of KiiLrland. There is a lieutenant-governor to rei)reseut tlio Crown ; a Legislative Council, or upper house, of lil members, ap})ointed for life, to reju'esent the House of Lords ; and the House of Assembly, or lower house, of 41 members, to represent the House of Commons. These are elected by the jieople for four years, -w hen a new election takes place. The governor has an execu- tive council of nine members, whoso functiy })e('(nno law, and they are then suhject to tlie veto of lier Mjjesty in Council. The ssom in June, and in July straw- berries are ripe, and haymaking begins. Wild rarpberries and other fruits are eatable in August. Wheat, oats, and other cereals, are ready for cutting in September, and should bo boused by October. The autunm is the most delightful season, and lasts for a considerable time. Heavy rains generally fall in November, but tiie weather is pleasant wjien dry. Towards the end of the month ice forms, and the rivers close up ; though the winter does not fairly set in till December, and the cold tlieu is not so severe as in Lower Canada. Tho forests of New Erimswick are extensive and valuable. Tlie timber wlieu cut can be carried by TIMHER. SS.-i Alitor from every district to the sea. This is another of the numberless instances in which wo seo how kindly our beneiicent Maker has prepared the earth to bo thelia])[»y abode of his creatures. If these line forests ^ow in the centre of vast plains, where no streams run, and where they have no communication with the ocean, they would scarcely bo available for the use of man except to a limited extent. Here tho massive trunks can bo floated down the rivers for exportation, while the smaller trees, branches, and bruHliwood serve for fences, or, when burnt, assist in fertilizing^ the ground. The finest tree in the province is the white pine, well known in En<^land as American pine. When freshly exposed the wood is perfectly white ; it is soft, lip^ht, free from knots, easily wrought, durable, and not liable to split when exposed to tho sun. It furnishes timber of large dimensions and boards of great width. It is employed in larger (piantities, and for more varied uses, than any otlier tree in America. Tlio black spruce constitutes a third part of the forests of the province, and attains 80 feet in height. Its properties are strength, lightness, and elasticity, and it furnishes fine yards and topmasts, while it is cut extensively into boards known as spruce dt'uls. There are between 700 and 800 steam or water saw-mills employed in cutting them. The American larch is tlie next tree in order of value. It is known also as tho tanuirack, and by its Indian name hack- matack and is also erroneously called the cypress and juniper. The trunk is straight, often 80 feet high, and upwards of two feet in diameter. It is very durable, and especially adapted for bhipbuildiug. 'i ' -1 J f : 5' 1 i. I ■ ^^ '^ '1 ! "i «MM l*W»*'**'W* lbs. of sugar. " ^laple honey" is made late in the year, when the sap, possessiiig less saccharine matter, is incapable of erystallizatidn. It is, therefore, consumed in a li([uid form, and is eonsidv^-retl far superior to West Intlian molasses. Tlie lisheries of New Brunswick are jjartieularly valuable. At the mouth of the liiver St. John alone not less than 10,000 .sahuon, 12,000 to h;,000 barrds of alewives, and 1,000 barrels of shad, are annually MINERAL HESOURCES. 337 cauglit. Some are salted and exported, others are eaten fresh. The annual value to the province of these lisheries is £oO,()00, besides the <|uautitie8 consumed in the province. The mineral resoui'ces of the province are consider- able. Only of late years has it been discovered that extensive coal fields exist in Albert Count}', from which the exports are already to the value of from £-•30,000 to £40,000 annually. Iron ore abounds near Woodstock and in other places. Gypsum, copper, and lead are found, as is gold, in several places. Limestcmes, sandstones, grindstones, granite, marble, flagstones, rooting-slates, potter's-clay and tire-clay, abound. I'uro crystals, agates, jasper, amethysts, and garnets are found. Game and w ild animals are the same as those of Canada, ^fost English fruits and vegetables come to 2)crfection in New ]3runswick. Indeed, tliere are few products of British soil which may not be culti- vated there with advantage. The natives have greatly decreased. At jtresent they number scarcely 1,000, including two distinct tribes — the Micmacs, or Salt-water Indians, as they are called, from inhabiting the coasts; and the Milicetes, or AVood Indians, who inhabit the forests and the borders of the lakes and streams. They are both partly civilized, and live on friendly terms with tlie whites, by whom the Milicetes are ottrn employed on shooting and fishing excursions as guidt-s. iSt.'veral -Micmac families are engaged steadily in agricultural pursuits and in' keeping cattle. Land iu the province can bo bought on terms very favourable to the purchaser, lie may obtain it at ■; I j M m iifcMjWimM Hii iiafca iV^PW^ ?*WS(«ff*-v»riiisria*«*S3w*7W»2* . ^TP^W 338 BMTISn NORTH AMEBICA. i the auction sales, which take place in each county on the first Tuesday in every month, at tho upsot price of 3s. currency (that is, 28. 5d. sterling) per acre, with an addition of 2 ad. per acre to pay for the cost of the survey. A discount of 20 per cent, is allowed when the money is paid down at tho nalo, thus enabling those paying cash to become tlio i)os- Bessors of 100 acres at £10 Gs. sterhng. rersoiis of limited capital may obtain land by paying one- quai'ter down, and the remainder by throo uuiiuul instalments. AU British subjects above eighteen, who wisli to become settlers, may claim 100 acres of Crown land wherever they choose, without competition, on pay- ing 28. sterling per acre ; or, they may work out the worth of the money at an estimated rate by labouring on the public works, and will bo allowed five years to complete the payment. Six or more persons may appoint an agent in tlio province to select land for them for actual settle- ment, who will be allowed to select 100 acres for each person so uniting, which will bo reserved for them for a year, thus giving them time to make all necessary arrangemonts to go out and take posses- sion. These regulations for obtaining land are found to work admii'ttbly, and ailbrd every facility to emigrants. CHArTER XVIII. PRINCE EDWAIID S ISLAND. Faronrable situation of Prince Edward's lalaiid — General aspect — Division iuto counties— History of the colony— Schemes for its coloniiation— Disposed of by lottery — Goverameut— Fisheries— Climate. PiuNCE Edward's Island was formorly called St. John's. It received its present name in honour of the Duke of Kent, who was for ton years commander- in-chief of British North America. It is looked upon as the garden of the North American colonies. It lies snugly ensconced in a deep bay on the north coast of Nova Scotia, with Cape J)reton circling round on the east, its liighlands sheltering it from the storms and mists of the Athmtic. It is separated from Nova Scotia by Northumberland Strait, which is about nine miles wide, while from Capo Breton it is 27 miles distant. Its length is 140 miles, and its breadth from lo to 31 miles, with an area equal to 2,134 square miles. Its 2>hysical aspect is most attractive, presenting cbieUy gentle undulations, covered with well-culti- vated farms and homesteads, and rich forests. When sailing along tlio north shore, the eye is attracted ly neat villages and farniM, pictures([Uo headlands stretching out iuto the sea, or coves and bays running ^ ■ Mim-mMmtm timTAmSar. 340 BRITISTI NOUTn AMERICA. inland; and hero and tlioro rich fi^'oon opmiin^s tlirougli tlio forests, witli Rhininjjj lakes in the dis- tance. Tlio wliolo island is so deeply indented with bays and inlets, that there is scarcely any part of tlio country more than seven or eij^ht miles iVoiu the sea, and thus every villa«;o has good water coiinnuni- cation. There are several good harbours : tht> luo.st secure is that on the southern side, on which (liarlotto Town, the capital, is built, and on the northern side is liichmond liay, from which there is safe iiilanu water communication along Cavendish Channel. West of it is Holland Harbour. The lands on the shores of Itichmond Bay are fertile and well cultivated. Seven townships abut on tlio bay, and there are in it several small but beautiful and fertile islands. The island is divided into three counties — Prince's, Queen's, and King's counties — wliich together contaia fourteen parishes. Charh)tte To^\'n, the capital, stands on the south-east side of the island, on the shore of Hillsborough Ba}', at the point where the three rivers, Hillsborough, York, and Elliott, fall into it. Tlio ground on which it is built rises gradually to a moderate heiglit above tlio sea. l>y means (d' llio three rivers sweeping round it, its water conunu- iiication with the interior is extensive; while lar;,'0 shi[)s may unload close inshore, and vessels of lM)0 tons burden can go fourteen miles higluT up. Tho town is widl laid out in broad, regular streets, runniiii; at right angles with each other, and having several op( n spaces lor S(piares ; while tho private dwelling-', pieturesquo and well planned gardens, and puhlio buildings, give it a handsome and attractive a[»p<'!U'- unce. Tho views fi-om tho higher parts of tho IIISTOKY OF THE ISLAND. .341 town, looking across Novtliumhorlaiul Straits to llio distant mountains of Nova k^^eotia, or around on the ]>ay, tlio ostuarios, and rivers, their nliorcs lined with homesteads, grassy glades, partly cleared nooks, green meadows, and forests of variously tinted trees, are picturesque and attractive in the oxtremo. The history of the island may bo ])riefiy narrated. Thougli seen by Cabot, no att«ntion was paid to it by the English ; the French therei'oro took possession of it as part of New rraueo. It was granted in IGOo to the tSieur JJoublet, a captain in the French navy, to be held as a feudal tenure. Tlie Sieur and liis asso- ciates, altiiougli holding the island till tlie Treaty of Utreclit, in 1715, regardless of its agricultural capa- bilities, did little more than employ it as a lisliing station. In the incessant petty Avars Miigod 1-t'tween the French and Englisli colonists, tlie few French settle: ,s in this district mainly occupied themselves in iitting out privateers to prey ni)on ]>ritish commerce, and in concerting attacks upon the liostile colonies. In these inroads they had willing and eager allies in the Alicmacs, au Indian tribe uhose head-(|uarters were in the island. Numberless sanguinarv conllicts took place, till, in 17oH, it was taken p(^ssession of by the English nnd(^r Lord ]v(j11o. On the con(juorors examining the house of the French governor, there ■were found hung up in it numerous Lrilish scalps, •which the Indians hail taken. On the conclusicmof peace in 17G;>, Prince Edward's Island was, with Cape IJreton, annexed to Nova Scotia, and the greater number of Fr'i'.'.h Acadians wore shipped otf either to France or to various French possessions, in consequence of the implacable '^ i ' 1< Itimim **.— M»a>ja»a fi 342 BRITISn NORTH AMERICA. i| ll ,'i III i feelin}:^ of hostility thoy oxliil)itocl towards tlioir cnn- querors. It was a happy day for all parties \\]\on the French power was tinally extinguished in North America, and the incessant petty wars canio to an end. Had just and wise councils prevailed, jnul the American revolution been avoided, unexanqilud prosperity would have been the lot of all the i'ro- vinces and States of North America. Man's evil l^assions have, unhappily, continued to retard, and often to mar, tlie onward proj^-ess of those ro;.,noiis wliich God, in his boundless goodness, has made so fertile and so fair. Various schemes were devised for the colonization Oa' this beautiful little island by the English. One of the most notable and most absurd was that dovi.s(;d by the Earl of Egmont, tlien First Lord of the Admiralty. lie suggested that it should be settltMl on a feudal plan (ho })eing lord paramount), divid»'\ii from the non-pa}Tnent by the proprietors of long aiTears of quit-rents. In 1771 the island wa« erected into a separate province; in which condition it has ever since remained, gradually increasing in prosperity. The island enjoys a responsible and representative government. It is ruled by a lieutenant-governor, appointed by the Crown ; an Executive Ccnmcil, who form the cabinet, cimsisting of eight members ; a Legislative Council of tiftecn, and a House of Assembly of fifteen members. The whole population, scattered over the country, does not amount to 80,000. The imports in the year 18o8 amounted to £186,229, and the exports to £ 1 0.3,071. The revenue in the same year was considerably under the exi)enditure. There are from ninety to a hundred schools of different descriptions, and a proportionate number of chui'ches. -■fewrainnw ■M 1 344 BRITISn NORTH AMERICA. ' i 1 1 1 i i kkii Ten times the present population could find amplo occupation in aj^ricultural pursuits, independent of those to which they would give rise ; and all accounts agree in testifying that no part of Lritisli North America is more fertile. Fish of every description, shell-fish, lohstors, and oysters, are very plentiful, and are caught at the mouths of all the rivers. Cod-fish and lierrinj^'s abound on the coast, and when the ice melts, tlio herrings rush into the harbours in vast shoals, and are easily caught in nets. The rivers likewise are well stocked with all varieties of fresh-wator fish. It only needs capital and enterprise to dovelo]) tlie fisheries to add greatly to the wealth of the colony. The climate is unsurpassed by that of any of tlio Nortli American colonies. The cold in winter is moderate, and scarcely more severe than tliat of England. The heat of summer is tem])erod by tlio sea-breezes, which sweep refreshingly over the island. Montgomery Martin says of it, " The air is dry and bracing; the diseas<.'s of the North American con- tinent are unknown, and puny British emigrants, soon after their arrival, attain robust health and unwonted strength. No person ever knew an inter- mittent fever produced in the island ; pulmonary cons;iniption is rarely met with ; the greater propor- tion of the colonists live to old age — 90 to 100 — and then die by a gradual decay of nature." After m.aking allowance for some exaggeration in this glowing description, enough, remains to show that Prince Edward's Island, though one of the smallest, is not tho least attractive of British colonies. CHArTER XIX. I NEWrOUXDLANl) AXl) LAUUADOR. Extent and penerul features— Harbours— St. John's — Oc-capation of inliahi- tanta— StapK- cimunodities — liisturv — Kurly setll'iiieiits— Hevcinie — Aborigines— Cod lisLery — Seal calelim;;— Description ol" Labrador— Populaiioii — Government — Value of exports. Although Nowfounfllaiul is tlio nearest i)art of America to Great IJritain,* it is seldom visited and little known. It is an island, lyinj.^ between 40" 10' and 51^ ,'J9 north latitude; and .52^ 41' and 50^ 31' west longitude, its southern eoast fdrniin*:^ the north- east shore of the entrance of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is about 400 miles in lengtli, with an average breadth of 130, though in some juirts it is oOO miles across. It is 1,000 miles in circumference, and its estimated area is 3(5, 000 scjuare miles. It is separated from the coast of Labrador l)V the Straits of Jielleislo, which in their narrowest part are about 12 miles "wide. In shape Kewlbundlaiul is nearly triangular. Of the interior many parts are very little known. It consists of ranges of hills of no great elevation, of swamps, and of numerous lakes, some of which are of considerable size. The soil is generally rocky and • The distance from St. John's, the capital, to Valentia, on the west coast ui Ireland, is 1,0&(} laileB. A-H liilTii—Jii f 346 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. ! •J fl :i' barren, though alonrr tho banks of tho rivers, and in some (listrictH in tlio scjuth-east, there are tracts of alluvial soil from wliich crops of oats and l)arloy of fair quality are produced. The native grasses are nutritious, and cattle can be roared with care in sufficient numbers to supply the inhabitants witli meat. In the gardens round the settlements potatoes and other vegetables grow, but not in j^rofusion. Trees also grow near the rivers and in a few other fertile spots, but do not attain any great size. But what the land denies, the sea amply supplies — food for the support of the inhabitants, and tlie means of obtaining wealth for thope who are industrious. The sliores of the island on every side are deeply indented, and ruggfjd in the extreme. Tliroughout the whole circumference there are numberless har- bours, deep bays with pebbly beaches, coves and creeks, inlets and rivers, with lofty headlands and cliffs, and woods often reaching down lo the water's edge. The chief harbours are the bays of Conception, Bonavista, Trinity, Notre Dame, Ilare, and White, on the east and nortli coasts ; St. George, on the west ; and Fortune, I'lacentia, and St. Mary's, on the south. On the south-east is a large peninsula, known as Avalon : tlie isthmus which unites it to tho mainland separates Trinity from Placentia Bay on the south. Conception and St. Mary's Bays are in this peninsula, as is Trepassey Bay on the south, and St. John's Harbour on the east. The peninsula of Avalon is the best cultivated part of the island, and contains by far the larger number of settlements. At the extreme south-east portion of the peninsula GENERAL FE/TrRES. 347 is Cape Raco, tho land ^-enorally marlo by ships on entering tho Gulf of St. La>\Ton('0, and, imliappily, the 8(('no of many disastrous sliipwrocka. A vast sand-hank surrounds No wfoundhand, about 600 miles long and .'300 miles broad. Tho English lish round the greater part of tho north and south, and tho entire oast coast ; but tho French claim tho right of fishing and curing their fish on tho west coast ; and the Americans on the opposite coast of Labrador. Tlio scenery on some parts of the coast is wild and awe-inspiring, in others more gentle and smiling. The district of Conception is the most p*^ pulous and richest part of the province, and the inhalutants are said to be tho most enterprising and in(lustriiU»ifiS f 1^ li 318 BUITISn NOUTIl AMERICA. '1^ to slilps p;oiii«^ lip. Opposite to it is another va-V known us tlio (.'liain Itock, from tli«3 fact tJiut a chain extends from it across tlit; strait to proliiltit tlio ontranco of an enemy's sliip. Altogether Hi. John's llarl»()ur is ono of the strongest in America. Neufonndhmd contains a popuUition of not h'ss than lO.'JjOUO, the greater number of whom are en- gaged partly or entirely in pursuits connected directly \vitli the lish trade. Even those employed in agri- culture occupy themselves eitlier in catching, carrying, or curing tlio cod whicli come in sudi countless num- bers around lliese shores. A snuill number oi per- sons are engaged in ship-building, the larger timber being supplied from New lirunswick. The women emjdoy themselves in knitting oveiy variety of warm woollen clothing, socks, stockings, vests, and caps. "Where tlie prcxlueo of tlie land is so limited it cannot bo expected that the exports should be very varied ; indeed, the products of the sea form the solo fctaplos of commerce. They consist of dried and cured cod and other fish, sounds, tongues, lish oils, and seal-skius. l*ortugal, the Urazils, and parts of Spain, consume a very large proportion of the dried fish exported from this province. Notwithstanding the ungenial character of the climate for a largo portion of the year, it has been proved, by experience, that those who devote their attention sttuidily to agriculture and the rearing of stock, liiid an ample reward for their labours. There are probably in the island about 2,000 horses, and from 15,000 to 20,000 horned cattle, about the same number of sheoj), and twice that number of swiue, with a considerable (quantity of STAPLE COMMODITIES. 319 carrviiiM-. poultry, rotatoes arc produeod in larj^o qimntltlos, and, with tlio addition of fiali and pardon vcij^otublcs, ailord an abundant supply of nutritious food to all wlu) arc contented with u samonoss of far»\ Somo fruits conio to porfection, siuh as currants, p^ooso- berries, and strawberries; tho latter <^row wild in great quantities, as do raspberries. Clierries and d*anisons also aro cultivated, and even apples and pears. A variety of beautiful llov'ers }j;ruw wild, but last a very short time. There aro also several useful plants, amonp^ thiMU tho Labrador tea-plant, of which a wholosonio infusion is nuub», and drunk as a common boverap^o. Tho trees aro tho black spruce and fir, tho black birch, the juniper, and tho witch hazel. Kelp is found round tho coasts, but is now used chietly for manure. Tho history of Newfoundland poos ])ack to a period of comparatively remote anticjuity. Tradition carries us back to times anterior to tlie con(piest of England, when tho sea kinps of tho north roamed the ocean in search of now lands, or tho plunder which mipht bo o])tained on tho shores of thoso alreiidy known. It is asserted tliat at that time Biorn, of Iceland, one of these sea liinps, (as in courtesy they were called, though nion* properly pirates,) was driven by stress of wt^ath^r into ono of tho harbours of Newfoundland, and that ho founded a settlenu'nt on its shores. Others Iteliovo that tho country received colonies from Norway, but tliat tho people degenerated into utter ])arbarism, and becamo amalpaumted with tho Indians. At tho time of its secimd discovery ])y Cabot, no traces of these people were found. The island was visited both by the <*!«' r 350 DRinsn KORTU AMERICA. i !,l! gallant Cortoreal and by Jacques Cartier, by whom it was called liaccalao, the name given by the Indians to the cod-fish abounding on the coast. This name has been adopted by the Portuguese as their desig- nation for the fish in its dried state. It was on this coast that about the year 1583 the brave and good Sir Humphrey Gilbert, having obtained a large grant of land from Queen Eliza- beth, attempted to found some settlements, and it was on his return home in his small disabled vessel that he and his comj^anions were swallowed up by the waves. Two years afterwards Sir Bernard Drake made another attempt to found a colony, and seized several I'ortuguose ships laden with fisli, oil, and furs ; but he returned without efi'eeting his main object. The war with Spain prevented any exi)editions in that direction for some time, but when British enterprise again revived, after the destruction of the Spanish Armada, several attempts were made to plant a colony ; but though fishing was commenced with considerable success, no per- manent settlement was formed till 1023, when Sir George Calvert, a Itomau Catliolic gentleman, who afterwards became Lord Baltimore, went out with a C(jnsi(lerable number of followers of his own p.orsuasion. They established themselves at Ferry Low, and gradually extended themselves over the south-eastern peninsuhi, to which liOrd Baltimore gave the name of Avalon, as Glastonbrry in Somer- setshire was anciently called, he supposing thai his new colony was the first place in America Nvli(!ie the Gospel was preach':d, as Glastonl Miry was believed' to have been the first spot in England to \\liicii the ilvuly settlements. 351 "glad tidings of great joy" were brought. Lord Baltimore appointed Lis son governor of Avjilon, which appears to have increased and flourished under his superintendence. It received considerable attention from the luthorities at home — not always bestowed by the English Government in those days on their plantations. Another feattlement was formed in IGoi by Sir Davitl Kirk, Ijut at the same period it appears that the French liad taken possession of a spot on the coast, called riacentia. As might liavo been expected, they soon quarrelled with tin? English ; and their en- croachment was one of the causes of the war which broke out between the two nations soon after the accession of William in. Several hostile expeditions were undertaken by ])oth parties with varied success, till peace was established l)y the treaty of liyswick. On war again breaking out several attempts wore made by the French to make themselves masters of the whole island ; and at length, in 1 708, a sti-ong force from Placentia having captured and burnt St. John's, they were entirely successful. The inland remained in their hands till, by the treaty of T'tretht, it and all adjacent islands were declared to belong to England, the French retaining certain rights of fishery and leave to euro tlieir tish on shore. The Americans in the same way have the right of tishing on the Labrador coast, of which tluy largely avail themselves. Newfoundland has ever since tliat period been entirely an English colony, and the fact that it has been considered a very important one is proved by the eminent men, chieily naval ollicers, who have been sent out since 172 J to govern it. From 177G t ; !? 352 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. to 1818 no less tlinn fifteen a(ln>Irals p^overned tlio province in succession, all well known to famo. Anion ;j^ tlicm were Admirals WaWeg-rave, Gambior, ►Sir Erasmus Gower, IloUoway, Sir J. Duckworth, and Sir J. Keatn. The last p^overnors have been Sir J. Gaspar I.o Marchant, Ker I^aillio Hamilton, C. 11. DarliniL!;', and Sir Alexander liannerman. In 18oH tho r(!venuo amounted to £in,12S, and tlio expenditure to £l73,\)i\'), the imports to £1,172,802, and exports to £1,. 'J 18, 8;H). Tho popu- lation in 18.37 cimsist'^d of 01, 2(58 mah^s, and /)8,.'}7() females; total, 122,0Ji8. Since then it has probably considerably increased, thouj^h the male population, from its maritime character, is very fluctuating. Newfoundland was the last of tho British North American provirces which obtained a responsible government. It was fully established in 18.5;5. Tho government is admiuisterjHl by a lieutenant-governor, aided by a responsible Executive ( 'ouncil of eight members, a Legislative Council of twel',e members, and a House of Assembly of thirty members. Edu- cation is not neglected in the province, and in every town, village, and hamlet will be found a day school, a Sunday school, and a school for adults; tho upper class(>s usually send their children to bo educated in l^ngland. The aboriginal inhal)itant3 who formerly occupied tho island are thought to have been a branch of the Esrpiimaux. They were tall of stature, tierce and brave, and had for centuries carried on a war to the death with tho !^^icmac Indians, who invaded their shores from Nova Scotia. They in return crossed the straits to retaliate on their foes, and were frefjuently I ABORIGINES. 353 buccessful, till they excited tlie enmity of the white men who had settled on their coasts. The tale of their fate has been often told. It is that of un- numbered tribes of the Red children of the forest. They had to feel the Cifects of the death-dealin*^ fire- arms of Euroi^eans, till, dismayed and broken, they lied to their fastnesses amid the rocks and forests of the interior. Here for years they remained con- cealed, every now and then making a sudden descent on the settlements, burning the houses, and mur- dering the inhabitants ; the colonists, in return, pursuing them, hunting them down like wild beasts, and remorselessly slaughtering them whenever taken. At length convinced, by the severe lessons they had received, of the utter hopelessness of contending suc- cessfully with the Europeans, the natives no longer ventured to approadi the settlements. Occasionally a wild ligure, seen amid the fastnesses of the interior — but who fled from the presence of the white intru- der — and signs of recent camp fires, shcjwed that small remnants of the native races still lingered in the land which once they called their own. Let Warburton tell tlie story of the last ai>poarance of the unhappy aborigines. "The winter of IHIJO was unusually severe in this ountr}', and prolonged beyond those of former years. Towards its close, a settler M'as hewing down trees at some distance from ono of the remote villages, wJieii two gaunt ligurrs crept out fi'om the neighbouring biisli ; with sad cries and imploring gestures tlioy tried to express their prayer for help. Tlio white man, terriliod by their micouthand haggard looks, seized his gun, wliich lay at hand, and shot the foremost ; the other tossed his A A ■■">ii. ^lJif * fc-'W-'- i» ^-'. ' u> !". > 354 mUTISn NORTH AMERICA. lean arms wildly into tlio air; the woods rang with his despairing Rhrieks as ho rushed away. 8iiuo then none of tlio fallen race have been seen. Tlio emaciated frame of the dead man showed how diro had been their necessity. Tliero is no doubt that tlio last of the lied men perished in that bitter winter." A description of Newfoundland would be very imperfect without an account of its fisheries. Thcv are to the province what timber and corn are to Canada ; coal, to Nova Scotia and Vancouver ; gold, to Britisli Columbia. Tlie cod fishery is of tlio cliief importance. It i^ pursued in two distinct ways; ono by large vessels on the outer banks at a distance from the land, tlie other by a vast number of boats of various sizes on the inner banks, and often closo inshore. The larger vessels, which are often roun()0 to £800,000. They consist of cod, herring, salmon, oil, skins, furs, and feathers. It is thus seen how one of the least promising and least attractive of Britisli colonies is among the most valuable. Indeed, in wliatever direction wo turn we see some of the numberless resources which the bounteous hand of our loving Creator has spread over the surface of tho globe for tho use and advantage of his creatures. Ho has, moreover, kindly implanted in tho bosom of man that peculiar feeling which makes the inhabitants of tho sea- bound sand-bank, the rugged mountain, the parched desert, the region of perpetual ice and snow, the tangled forest, or the treeless plain, ail equally cling CO.NTLrSION. 301 vrlth affection to tho land of their birth. Tlio in- habitant of tliese regions of peri)t.tual snow loves his homo with an all'oction no Iosh intense than doew tho native of tho Hunny sontli. llubit makes him insonsiblo to tho hanlsliips ho has to endure, and endears to him a mode of cxistento which to others would be intolerable. In closing; this brief notice of British Nortii America, it is impossible not to bo imprt-ssed by the vastness and jj^randeur of tho colonial empire of which it forms but a part. How immense tho respon- sibility, how great tho di<2^nity, thus ((mferred upon Britain ! It is no vain boast that ours is an empire upon which the sun never sets. In the words of an eminent writer, " England is not only the heart of a mighty empire, whoso branches and roots extend to tlio uttermost parts of tho earth, she is tdso tho * nursing mother ' of nations yet in their infancy, and on her righteous fullilment of this responsible ^ \ A o^ '-^^.•^ ^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. t4SS0 (716) 872-4503 ■^ o^ fi INDEX. AnoiiiGiN'F.s, 43 et seq. Accommodation, the, tirst steam- boat on St. Lawrence, 107. Algonquins, 43. Alleghany Mountains, 24. Amnrican Board of Missions, 56. American couiincnt discovered, 9 et seq, Annapolis, 327. "xVpostle of the Indians," 63. Ardoise Iliil, 313. Assinniboia, 159. Assiuniboine River, 156 ct seq. Asteagalus, 191. Avalon, 347. Baltioa, Vasco Nunez de, dis- covers the Pacific, 20. Bear story, 241. Belleisle, Straits of, 11. Belvidero copper mLie, 135. Black River copper mine, 135. Blakiston, Captain, quoted, 188. Blodget quoted, 170 c/ seq. Blue ^Mountains, 26. Boat Encampment, 277. Bonavista Bay, 347. Brainerd, Dadd, account of his preaching, 55. Brantford, 118. Bras d'Or, 314. Britannia Tubular Bridge, 84. British Central North America — Its boundaries and extent, 151 et seq.', peculiar features of, 154; lakes and rivers of, 154 <■< seq. ; the Fertile Belt, 155 et seq. ; Saskatchewan, River, 155; the Great High- way, 156 et seq. ; Red River, 158; Selkirk settlement, 159 et seq. ; history and present state of, 192 et seq. ; Christian Indian.^, 161 ; notes by Pro- fessor Hind, 164 ; its water communications, 166 et seq. ; climate, 169 et seq. ; fertility, 173 ct seq. ; Fort Pelly, 175 ; Fort Edmonton, 175 ; coal fields, nSct seq. ; wild animals, 180; agricultural resources, 181 et seq. ; settlement of, by Lord Selkirk, 192 et seq.; missionary labours and re- sults, 195 et seq. ; its educa- tional institutions, 198 et seq. ; Indian letter, 205 ; narrative of Bishop of Rupert's Land, 211 et seq. ; modes of travelling in, 219 etseq. 864 INDEX. British ColumLi.a — History of, 271; extent of, 27-5 ; discovery of gold in, 275 ; description of its scenery, 276 ; gold regions of, 278 {s'^e map) ; climate and fertility of, 280; towns, 2S1 et scq. ; population of, 28.5 ct scq. ; necessit} of missions to, 2Si) ct scq. ; description of the country by Governor Doiigliis, 288 ct scq. ; fisheries of, 291 ; progress of the colony, 294. British North America — Extent of, 29 ; division into provinces, 30 ; its climate, 31 ; agricul- tural and mineral resources, 37 ; its natural history a I fisheries, 40 ; aboriginal in- habitants, 43. Brockvillo, 118. Buflfalo— Uses of the, 259 ; hunt- ing the, 2G1 et scq. ; reckless slaughter of, 204 et seq. ; Indian pound, 265 ct scq. ; preserving the meat of, 269 ; "making a calf," 270 ; Indian encounter with, 271. Bytown, 108. Cahot, John, 9. Cabot, Sebastian, 11. California, discovery of, 20. Canada — Discovery of, by Car- tier, 1 3 ; his description of tho country and inhabitants, 1 3 ; Indian name Kmiata, 15 ; Ro- berval appointed viceroy, 16 ; conquered from tho French. 23 ; early missions to, 51 et seq. ; its extent and boundaries, 58 ; its mountains, 59 ; lakes, 64 ; rivers, 74 ; public works of, 81 ; Welland Canal, 82; Grand Trunk Railway, 8"> ; Great Wostora Railway, 87 ; origin of fur trade, 8i) ; settlement of Qu(;bec, 00 ; (iucbec sur- rendered to the Knglish and re-occupieil by the Fn;nch, 91 ; I'^rench explorations, 92 ; Eng- lish settlements on Hudson's r>ay, 95 ; attack on (ju('l»ec by Sir W. I'hipps, 9() ; " Com- pany of a Hundred Partners," 97 ; eaptui'o of (iuebec by General Wolfe, 100; becomes a British province, 104 ; in- creasing prosperity, 105 ct seq. ; chief towns of. 111 et scq. ; population of 1 13 e^ scq. ; educational system, 118 et seq.', religious statistics, 121 ef seq. ; government of, 125 et scq. ; taxation of, 127 ; pro- ductions and manufactures of, 127 et scq. ; agricultural sta- tistics, 129 ei seq. ; Crown lands, 132; its mineral re- sources, 135; fisheries, 136; wild animals, 138 ; birds, 140; its climate, 140 ; amusements in, 143; anpearance of vil- lages, 146 ; village ovens, 146; expense of living in, 148. Canadian explorers, 28. Canoe Iviver, 277. Canso, Strait oi, 314. Cape Breton — Its position and physical features, 314 ; the Great Bras d'( )r, 314 ; moun- tains of, 315 ; its extent, 315; mineral resources of, 316; r>G5 works of, >S2; (jiTand ■J ; (xreat 87 ; origin settlement lelxx' siir- ii^lish and 'rench, 01; »,(»2;Eng- Tiidson's 'M (Quebec i ; " Com- ^lrtners," [ueljcc Ly ; becomes 104; in- 105 it )f, 111 et .13 e^Sfy. ; t, 118 €t, .sties, 121 t of, 125 127; pro- ictiires of, tural sta- ; Crown neral re- gies, 136; irds, 140; lusements of vil- •ens, 14G; 148. tion and JU; the : ; monn- ent, 31.3; of, 31G; climate and seasons, 316 ; his- tory of, 321 ; successive occu- pation of, by English and French, 321 ; fortifications of Louisburg, 321 ; Louisburg finally t-aptured and dis- mantled by the English, 323 ; united to Nova Scotia, 324 ; Sydney, capital of, 326. Caroline, the, desti action of, 108. Cartier, Jacques, his description of the Indians, 13. Chaleur, Uay of, 13. Champlain, Samuel dc — Fotmds settlement of Quebec, 00 ; alliance with the Indians, 00 ; discovery of Lake Cham])lain, 90 ; conllict with the Indians, 91 ; second visit to the colony, 91 ; journey to England, 91. Charlesbourg, 10. Charlotte Town, 340. Chaudiere Falls, 76. Chippcways, 44. Chi-istian Indians, 51 ct scq., 161, IdOct s^q. Church of England missions, 65, Cochrane, Archdeacon, quoted, 203 c( ccq. Cockburn's Island, 67. Columbia River, 277. " Company of a Hundred Part- ners," 97. Conception Bay, 347. Conchachine, Lake of, 72. Cook, Captain James, his dis- coveries, 21. ** Coronation of winter," 3 1. Cortereal, (nispar, 11. Curtereal, Miguel, 12. ' 'ortcroal, Vasco, 12. Cypree's ^Mountains, 188. r).\K0T.\IIS, 44. Deuonville, Marquis do, atrocity of the, 96. I'etroit Kivcr, 69. Dog Lake and Iviver, 73. Douglas, Governor, quoted, 283, 2S8 cf seq. DougLis, town, 284. Drake, Sir Francis, 22. ])rununond's Island, 67. Duck Mountains, 163. "EniMuiKiii lleview" quoted, 291 et siq. Edward vi., 16. Eliot, Hugh, 11. Elizabeth, (iueen, 17. Elliott, River, 340. English River, 21.j. English settlements in AmcrJct in the seventeenth ccntur\ , 23. Erie, lake and canal, G9. Es(iuiniaidt Harbour, 301 li nfq. Esquimaux, 43. Fertile Belt, 155 et seq. Florida, 13. Fort Edmonton, 175. Fort Garry, MO. Foit Hope, 283. Fort I'i'lly, 175. Fortune Ray, 347. Francis i., 12. Eraser River, 276. Fredericton, 330. French missions to Indians, 51. French River, 72. .3GG INDEX. Frobishor, Sir Martin, 17. Fucfi, Juan de, .Straits of, 21, 300. Fur-bearing animals, 238 ci seq. Fur trade, 8'J, 238 et seq. Galt, 118. George, Indian, founds settle- ment of Little Current, G8. George, Lake, 31 1. Georgia, Gulf of, 22. Georgian Bay, 07. Gilbert, Sii'llumiihrey, fato of, 17. Goat Island, 70. Godcrich, 118. Gold fields of British Columbia, 277 (w« mop). Golfo Quadi'ado, 11. Gomez, 12. Grand Lake, 331. Grand IManitoulin Island, 67. Grand Kapids, settlement, 197 et seq. Grand River, G9. Great Highway, the, 156 ct seq. ; plans for its construction, 23U H seq. Groat I'acilic Railroad, 229. Green Mountains, 2G. Guel])h, 118. I i Halii'ax, 32.5. ! Hamilton, situation of, 117; ' poi)ulation of, 117. Have Bay, 347. Haskett HiU, copper mine, 135. Hector, Dr., quoted, 175, 178. Hedysarum, 191. Henry, Alexander, quoted, 241 ct seq. Henry vii. grants patent of dis- covery to Cabot, 10. Hillsborough Bay and River, 340. Hind, Professor, quoted, 164, 1 70 et seq., 181 it seq., 196, 2().'> el seq. Ilochelaga, 15. ilclland Harbour, 340. lludaon's Bay Company — Origin and incorporation of, 244 ; comjjetition with the French, 245 ; large profits of, 216 ; conflict with the Nmth- west Company, 247 et seq. : enterprise of Lord Selkirk, 250 it seq. ; death of Governor Semple, 252; Government in- vestigation of outrages, 253 ; coalition of, with North-west Co.ipany, 254 ; government of, 2')o ; trading operations of, 256 it seq. Huron, Lake, 67. loY Capo, 22. Indian letter, 205 et seq. Indian summer, 33. Indians — Captain Cook's de- scription of, 13; causes of diminution of, 46 ; their in- tellectual capacity, 49 ; reli- gion, 49 ; cruelty, 49 ; dwell- ings, etc., 50 ; missions to, 51 et seq. ; Champlain's alli- ance with, 90 et seq. ; allies oi the French, 96; popidationin Canada, 123 ; Christian settle- ments of, 51, 161, 199 et seq.; report of Archdeacon Coch- rane, 203 et aeq. ; Indian IXLEX. 367 letter, 200 ; naiTativo of tho Bishop of Rupert's Land, 211 ec seq. ; reverence for bears, 241 ; buffalo hunters, 2().) ft seq. ; in Britisli Columbia, 28.5 ; fate of, in Newfound- land, 351. Iroquois, 41. Isle Royalo, HG. Isle St. Ignace, GG. Islington mission station, 214. Juan de Fuca, Straits of, 21, 300 ; harbour of, 300. Kagawoxo, Lake, 67. Kaministiquia River, 28. Kingston, description of, llo; its importanco as a military and naval depot, 115; popu- lation of, 116. Lahradok — Discovery of, by Cabot, 10 ; boundaries of, 359 ; surveyed by Captain Loch, 359 ; important fishing station, 3G0 et seq. Lachine, village of, 94. La Cloche Mountains, G3. Lake of tho Thousand Islands, 71. " La Xouvollc Franco," 13. La Sallt;, his voyage from Lake Erie to mouth of Mississippi, 92 ; murder of, 93. Lathyrus, 191. "Leisure Hour" quoted, 222 et seq. Little Current Harbour, 68. Liverpool, 327. Loudon, description of, 117 ; its rapid growth, 117; popula- tion of, 117 ; its agi'icultural situation, 117. Longuo Soutte Rapids, 75. Louisburg, 321 et seq. Lunenburg, 327. Lytton, 284. MAr;i)AhEN Islands, the, 317- INIanitobah, Lake, 154 et seq. ]Manitou Lake, 67. IMattawan, River, 72. McClintock, Sir Leopold, 18. Mealy ^fountains, 2t). IMiehillimakinac, Fort, capture of, by the Indians, 99. ]\Iichipicoton Island and Har- bour, (i6. Mindemoya, Lake, GS. Miramichi, River, 331. .Mire Bay, 316. Mississippi, Rivfir, discovery of the, by a French priest, 92. Montcalm, ^Marquis de, defendp Quebec, 100 ; d(-ath of, 104. Montgomery Mai'tin 1 ; cod fishery, 3o.') et seq. ; seal catching, 30 7 c( seq. Nepigon settlomont, Go ; river and lake, 73. Niagara River and Falls, 70. Nine Mil(! Swamp, 184. Nipissing, Lake, 72. Nootka Sound, 21. North-west Conipany — Forma- tion of the, 247 ; competition Avith JIudson's Bay Company, 247 et .seq. ; activity of its servants, 248; amalgamation •with Hudson's 13ay Company, 2.)4. North-west i)assage, expedition of Cabot in seaich of a, 10. Notre Dame J'>a\, 347. Nova Scotia — Situation of, 312 ; its rivers and lakes, 313 ; mineral resources of, 314 ; Capo Breton, 314 et .seq. ; soil and climate, 31G; Mag- dalen Islands, 317 ; Sable Island, 317; early settlement of Nova Scotia, 318 et srq.; contlicts with the French, 319 cf siq. ; princiital tosnis ef, 32.3 ct seq. ; climate of, 327. Okaxaoax, Lake, 277. Ontiirio, Lake, 71. ( >skelanain, Tiake, SO. ( >t(inabce, liiver, 73. Ottaw.i Tiivor, description of, 1') ; city, advant.ageous po.si- ti'in of, 111, population of, 114. " Over the falls," 70. Pacific, the, discovery of, 20. I'alliser, Captain, quoted, 172 et seq. Pemmican, 200 ; its preparation, 2.39. Perth, 118. Peticodiac, Pivcr, 331. Peterborough, 118. Pict(,u, 320. Pie Island, 63. Porcupine IMountnins, 163. I'ort Hope, 73, 118. Port Poyal, 320. Prairie Indians, 4-3. I'rince Fidward's Island — Its situation and extent, 339 ; counties and parishes of, 3 10 ; its history, 341 ct seq. ; dis- posed of by lottery, 343 ; it> government and educational institutions, 343; productions and climate of, 344. QrcnEC, situation of, 62 ; settle- ment and history of, 90 tf seq. ; attack on, by the English, INDEX. 369 !18 et acq. ; French, Gl 9 tc)\nis cif, e of, 327. ■ription oi', ,L,^oous posi- )ulution of, ■ry of, 20. quoted, 172 preparation. !1. IS, 163. Island — Its itcnt, 339; hcsof, 310; t scq. ; dis- ly, 343; it> educational productions 4. ; G2; scttle- y of, 90 (/ the English, repulsed, 90 ; capture of, by General Wolfe, 100; province of, 105; attack on, hy tho Americans, 10.3; drsc-ption of, 111 ; its population, 113. Quesnelle, liiver, 278; town, 28i. " Rainisow in the North " quotetl, 199 rt s"/. llalei,i,^li. Sir Walter, founds the settlement of Yirishopof Rajjert's Laiid, 190; extent of, 197 ; educatiimal institutions, 198; missionary dilliculties, 199 ('/ srq. ; results of mission work, 203 ('/ sv/y.; Arclideacon Coclirane's report, 201 ct scq. Severn, River, 72. Sliiiwcmegan, River and Falls,80. Sherhrooke, 114. Shouswap, Tiake, 277. Siineot;, Lake, 72. Smokey Capo, 315. Sqitirrrl, loss of the, 17. St. Cl.iir, Lake and River, G9. St. George's P.ay, 347. St. John, Lake, 74. St. Jo]m's,Town,329 ; Rivcr,331. St. Joseph's Island, 07. St. liawrence, 2-3 ; first steam- boat on the, 107; towns on the, HI ct scq. St. Mary's sottlomcnt, 65. St. Maurice, River, 80. St. Paul's Island, 315. Stadaconna, 15. St(mo Fort, 197. Superior, Lake, description of, 05 ; settlements on, ijo. Sydney, 320. BB 370 INDEX. Tadovssac, ViUago and Har- bour, 79. Torra Primum Visa, 10. Thompson Kiver, 277. Thorno, Master, 11. Three liivcrs, 114. Thunder Bay, 62; capo, G3 ; Coppermine, 135. Toronto, description of, 116; its universities, colleges, and schools, 116; its population, 117. Trepassey Bay, 347. Trinity Bay, 347. Trois Rivieres settlement, 99. Vancoiveu, Captain, explora- tions of, 22. Vancouver' s Island — Descrip- tion of natives of, i^l ; its situation and extent, 296 ; history of, 297 et siq. ; de- scription of, 299 et seq. ; com- modious harbours of, 301 ; soil and climate of, 301 et seq. ; timber and fisheries, 306 e* seq.; valuable coal fields of, 308; sale of lands, 309 ; rapid progress of, 311. Vorazzano, Giovanni, 13. Vicia, 191. Victoria Harbour, 301. Victoria Tubular Bridge, 84. Vinland, 9. "Washademoak Lake, 331. WeUand Canal, 69. Wesleyan missions, 66. Willoughby, Sir Hugh, 17. Winnipeg, Lake, 1-54 et seq. "Winnipegosis, Lake, 154 ct seq. White Bay, 347. ^\^lite-Fish Lake and River, 72, Wolfe, General, captures Que- bec, 100 ; death of, 104. Wood Indians, description of,45. Yale, 283. Yarmouth, 327. York River, 340, LONDON: B. K. BUBT, PEINTKE, UOLBOBS Ultli. mea, 306 cf )al fields of, 8,309; rapid li, 13. 301. ridge, 84. se, 331. ,56. ugh, 17. 54 et seq. e, 154 ct fiiq, ,nd River, 72. iptures Qui'- of, 104. sription of,45. *t ).:^^^' no I »< ' ^%:.^j — - r--- "'"'■• H'M." -* 7"" ,,!).'»"'■" ,rvl '';^^At*"."'""" ' •j'' :Sr,il/„rm!l. -^.. I on y Nr-(r'(-- >:"; Smi*J ofe. 11 :i' I) s sj^i ' '^3q*;.. «* ^«/ -^-^.v? ) S^ff/. ■«• 1')kU"'il""" "'^ '"liurrhUl ... 14'^'" Mil"" A ' .'•jirriiii'"' ' »- 't *■ ■^ »» . . v-,..r?v'^ JrtS „ . \ „ « /sff«..._i->. ... K"i,^'C"C'"-" -..-'«- BBinSII AMilBICiL (•' ;: \4 ^is^'-f^ir^Kt. 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