IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. '<6 „ mp 1.0 I.I iiiin o IIP io Hill 2.0 SiS lllllU 1.8 1.25 1.4 |l.6 ■* 6" — ► HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SB0 (716) 872-4503 iV ^N, ■^ <> -^ <? /> * Ci^ ^ <> ''q,^ .*' 4>#^ i V c ^1 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian institute for Historical IVIicroreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pellicul6e I I Cover title missing/ D Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Re\\6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr^e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout6es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmies. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl^mentaires; L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mithode normale de filmage sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. D D D D D Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag^es Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurdes et/ou pelliculdes Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages ddcolordes, tachetdes ou piqudes Pages detached/ Pages ddtach^es 77 Showthrough/ Transparence I I Quality of print varies/ n Quality in^gale de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel suppldmentaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc.. have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 film^es A nouveau de fagon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est fiim6 au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. IPX 14X 18X 2X I I I I I I I I I I I I |y| 26X 30X 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library of the Public Archives of Canada L'exemplaire filmA f ut reproduit grAce d la g4n4rosEt6 de: La bibliothdque des Archives publiques du Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Las images suivantes ont it6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet^ de l'exemplaire film6. et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol —^(meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimde sont film6s en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commen^ant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols •-^- signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour 6tre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 H THE WORKS OF HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT. laaii THE WORKS HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT. VOLUME XXXV. CALIFORNIA INTER POCULA SAN FRANCISCO: THE HISTORY COMPANY, PUBLISHERS. 1888 Entered according to Act of Congress in the year l«ss, by HUBERT H. BANCROB r, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. All Rnjlitx lieserveil. PREFACE. So full of oddities, and crudities, and stranjjfc devel- opments, consequent upon unprecedented combina- tions of nationalities, characters and conditions, were the flush times of California, that to condense them into the more solid forms of history without to some extent stilling the life that is in them and marring their origuiality and beauty is not possible. There are topics and episodes and incidents which cannot be vividly portrayed without a tolerably free use of words — 1 do not say a free use of the imagination. Much has been written of the Californiar Inferno of 1840 and the years immediately following, nmcli tliat is neither fact nor fable. Great and gaudy [)ictures have been painted, but few of them bear nmch resemblance to nature. Many conceits have been thrown off by fertile brains which have given tlieir authors money and notoriety ; but the true artist who, with the hand of the master drawing from life, places before the observer the all-glowing facts, unbesmeared by artificial and deceptive coloring, has yet to appear. No attem[)t is made in these pages to outdo my predecessors in morbid intensifications of the certain phases of society and character engendered of the times. They contain simple sketches and plain de- scriptions, historical rather than fantastical, with no effort toward effect. (V) ■ri TI Til THl It CLA£ SAN CONTENTS OF THIS VOLUME. CHAPTER I. THE VALLSr OF CAMFORNIA PAGE • . . I <'HAPTER ri. THREE CENTURIES OK Wir n r.i,, .. WILD TALK ABOUT GOLD IN CALIWIRNIA CHAPTER III. FURTHER RUMOK.S OF THE EYr^TPVi.i. ^» XH. PISCOVEBV JZZZ ' '!"'' " ™H-A PRIOR ro CHAPTER IV. AFFAIRS ABOUT THE COLOMA SAW-MILL . . 25 44 I>URINQ THE SPRING OF 1848 . 62 CHAPTER V. THE JOURNEY OVERLAND CHAPTER VI. 89 THE VOYAGE TO CAU«,RNIA_NEWVORK TO CHAORES. ..... ,0, CHAPTER VII. THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA-ISTHMUS OF PANAMA CHAPTER VIII. THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNU-PANAMA TO ...N fr^.cISCO CHAPTER IX. EL SOSAOO CHAPTER X. CLASSICAL ABNORMITIES SAN FRANCISCO , CHAPTER XI. (V) 155 190 225 248 260 ** CONTENTS. CHAPTKR Xir. '*"'■"'•■"• .294 ('JIAITKR XIIJ. KUKTIIKR AIlNUKMiriKS „.- CHAI'TKR XIV. BUSINESS. ...... „„, CHAI'TKR XV. ILLt'sniATIONS OF LIKE ANK CUAKAtTKII gjM CHAI'TKR XVI. A.MO.N(l THE MINEIW ^g. CHAPTER XVII. SgUAn'ERISAI „^p CHAI'TKR XVm. PACIFIC COA.ST PRISONS .,,, CHAI'TKR XIX. SOME INDIAN EPISOlJIOS ^.jg CHAI'TKR XX. SOME CHINESE EPISODES gg, CHAPT) .1 XXI. COURTS OF JUSTICK AND COURT SCENES. . ROo CHAPTKR XXII. DRINKING ggg CHAPTER XXIIl. GAMBUNG go- CHAPTKR XXIV. DUELLING ^o. CHAPTER XXV. TALKS OF THE TIKES ^gg . 315 . :m CALTrORiSTIA INTER POCULA . 734 . 785 ('• CHAPTER I. THE VALLEY OF TALIFORXIA. Horteuaio peaco, thou knowest not gohVH .effect. — Tamiiiij of the ,^?>r«»r. tur^- Pnlif"^'"-' ''•™';'' '""' ''™™«' SehoUl tl>0 ni turo, Calitoniia in lier cups I ^ Onco Jong ago sailors thought to hold in tlioir Pm brac^ the god Bacclms, whon" they carried fn « Z c r ''' t 'r '^"^ 'r^ while!" buV^;::;.::; tlie god awoke he caused vines fn fw;»r +i i early to California tSintl cZ^'L^'L';.;?'.'' .er of her treasures, but wte theuSes'^C^'"'' tive, fallins on destruction P' Yet swiftly as this chaff of immigration was swent away, nierclessly as California frowned o many si was not so .nuch to bla.ne, although for a br efVace she played the bacchante, for she was ha,ll J tJ i worse than Pcntheus, wh^ from nSg ^'pl^^ ^^^'r*:^; '''""^r,!:rrv''<' '''^™'--'' '-5hii.g.st«ro" 9 - THE VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. the avenging deity, and bereft of sense was led tlirough the city in female apparel, stricken with mania, with a doulle sun and a double Thebes before his eyes, finally to be torn to pieces by women. First of all she was made to reveal her mystery, held sacred to the memories of time; for which extortion, like another Pythia, she was placed upon a tripod over , the chasm Cassotis, and for a Delphic temple choos- ing the snow-powdered Sierra, and for the mephitic exhalations the less offensive incense from odorous pines. Native to sublim.ited airs and all-engendering sun- shine, her intoxication partook more of youthful revels than chronic intemperance; nevertheless, thou wast drunk, California, as thou well knowest; as drunk as Agave when tearing in pieces her own son whom she took for a lion's cub. Thine hills were drunk from the fruit of their own vines; and in the great valley was heard the sullen roar of hell echoing hollow on the ear. All this was exceedingly disgraceful, and especially repulsive in young and lovely woman ; whereat, toward the immaculate east, conventional spinsters of untried chastity blushed and hung their heads, though never refusing to receive the fruits of sin. Between two mountain systems stretches the valley of California, an elliptical, trough-like plain, five hun- dred miles in length by seventy-five in width ; a vast amphitheatre, from whose arena circling terraces rise up to the lofty canopy of a pearl and berjl sky — colos- sal benches, whereon the gods might sit and watch the strange doings of men below. Although not gods we some day may be ; all gods were once men, or something worse. Therefore come sit with me upon the plateau-shelf up over the hill Mokelumne, near the source of the Stanislaus, where sometime sat Nemesis, eyeing the pilgrims as they entered the Golden Gate, and measuring out to them MOUNTAIN SYSTE^IS. led with i3fore First icred , like over . hoos- phitic orous ; sun- revels wast ink as •ui she : from valley low on il, and onian ; ntional their uits of rallcy e hun- a vast DS rise -colos- watch ^1 (vods le come Ihe hill where they them <4 tliclr several portions of invented woe. Five thous- and feet below, and far as eye can reach, spreads out a i)crl.srope of beauty such as makes us loath to put off liumanity even to be gods, lest mayhap as gods wc should have no sympathy with scenes like this. Often have I thought when standing entranced before entrancing nature, what a pity it was we could not always have her scenes before us; and as for heaven, give it to those who are dissatisfied with earth. Only exterminate north winds, nervousness, and all rascal- ity, and I could rest contented yet awhile here upon this bench, though not a god. Walled in on every side, without loop-hole or portal save by passes to the plateau regions of Utah and Arizona, and the bay of San Francisco, which across the concave from where we sit, and midway between its north and south extremes, parts the Coast Range, whose green and grizzly hills it crowds back, and ])aves the way through the Golden Gate to the Pacific, we have before us what was once broad ocean, then an inland sea, afterward a hedged-in Eden, God- givon to a thrice happy race, and later converted into a nineteenth-century coliseum, wherein was destined to be performed a play entitled The New Greetl- struggle of the Nations. Time enough, however, to talk about that to-morrow. Sit still awhile and wo sliall presently see, out here upon this holiday of creation, elves and fays, if any there are left for these new Arcadian vales. We can offer them whereon to sport ground which one day will be as classic as that of Greece, plains up-swelling beneath their feet, and slopes of evergreen and sweeps of forest. Then there are warm inviting knolls under star-lit skies, and enchanted groves where heaven's witchery might wanton regardless of irate ocean on one side or shadowless deserts on the other. When this mightv Sierra was a-building, this grand up-lift, with its fluted sides flushed with never- 4 THE VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. dying foliage, its white-cushioned benches, and long serrated summits, its rocky pinnacles whose alabaster crests glisten lustrous to mariners a hundred miles away, when its crevices were being filled with molten gold, a sea of sorrow was about to roll at its base, for the S(juabble for this treasure that is presently to come will be pljiful to see. Split a fern-stalk and place it in a dish with the thick ends together, and the leafy sides both lying toward the east, and you have mapped the drainage system of the California valley. The stalks are the two rivers, the Sacramento and the San Joaquin, which, rising respectively at either end of the great valley, graciously receive their tributaries as they wind through oak and poplar vistas; then rolling slowly on, ever slowly, once bright and clear with happy contentment, but presently opaque in sullen shade, on to their junction, and thence together to the sea. And it is along this eastern side, where the branches and leaves and leaflets rest on the edges of the dish, and form labyrinths of ridges, and subordinate valleys upon which are flung in infinite disorder, bluffs, cliasms, and smoothly rounded stonu-waves heaped almost mountain high, that we have the Sierra foot- hills, already abnormally classic. Aside from the petrified sentinels left standing adown the centuries, there is ample evidence of what Plutus was hammer- ing at hereabout. Left, after laying the Sierra foun- dation, were the dead volcanoes which we see, and their trachyte spurs flanking dark green forests, all intermingled with lavender and bufl:' lava beds and scoriaj; blistered ashen slopes, whose vegetation is stunted and ill-tempered, and fire-riven hills of purple rock, loose and crumbling, to which cling blasted pines and wind-smitten oaks. Over many of her deformities nature spreads a seemly covering, hld- inij what were otherwise the bare bones of an un- IN THE COAST RANflE. mg iter i ilea ■>,' itcu i for r to k' 1 the 1 y"V^' 1 ua»4e ■.-'; 3 the quiu, ,:| Treat • wind ■'1 lowly .9 3 lappy hade, ■; 3 the ■1 nchcs ^ dish, \ alleys A' Llutts, % leaped 1 foot- •1 li the luries. liiucr- 1 fouii- .i m and fts, all '] K and Ron is '■] B)urple ' \ Hasted i| Hf her H hid- ; Hi un- sii;litly skeleton. Manyof these foundation-hills, and particularly the little valleys between them were fin- is] lod in her happiest mood. Many of these cinders of spent forces have been well fleshed with soil, well watered, made fragrant with gums and odorous plants, and toned in healthy glistening green. But it is down into the valleys that you must go, into the valleys of the Coast Range, and that too be- fore man has mutilated everything, if you would see what nature has done for this strip of seaboard. There are natural meadows arabesque with tawny wild-oats, blossoming pea, and golden nmstard, interspersed with indigenous vineyards, and fruit-bearing thickets. There are flower-gardens laid out in patterns by the deft fingers of nature, stars and crowns and chaplets of yellow, purple, white, and red. Scattered over broad park-like plains, and rising from tall wavy grass are oaks of various forms and species, some high with broad branches, and many scraggy and storm-bent. Here and there trees cluster in groves, and clumps of undcr-growth gather round to keep them company, liising from the broad plain are solitary buttes, with cloud-entangling crests, sharp and high; and all around the borders bluff promontories, and tongues of u[)lifted land timbered with beech and birch, ash, myrtle, and laurel, shoot out into the valley, some- times sudsiding in small round hills covered with tulips, wild onions, hemp, flax, and prickly chaparral. Now bring down through rocky canons the clear dancing water; lead it n^und in winding courses where it will best moisten the surface, broadening it occasionally into lakes, locking it in lagoons, or leav- ing it in sluggish sloughs; then go out while the morning is fresh and gray, just as the sun begins to ])our a sensuous warmth into the air, to refine the mists and give lustre to the foliage, and to set life glowing under a blue and purple haze, and if the eyes shine not with gladness, and the breast swells not THE VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. with gratitude, then the heart is hard indeed, and the breast but Httle better than a flUit. You say that such a region should teem with ani- mal life, and so it does. You can see there pelicans and sea-gulls fishing together in the bays ; seals and soa-lions barking on the islands; wild fowl thickly clustered on lake and tule-marsh ; fish darting amid the waters; and beasts of many several sorts roaming tlie forests. On the tangled hillside is heard the soft note of the curlew ; you may listen also to the rust- ling of the pheasant, the chirrup of the blackbird, the whistling of the partridge, and the sweet songs of the robin and the lark. And they all rest content ; they are not driven by intense heat or cold to long migrations, their little journeys between valley and mountain being scarcely more than an afternoon's ramble. Nor need they take nmch thought for the morrow; even the prudent bee often leaves neglected the honey-bearing flower, and fails to lay in a winter's store. To elk and antelope, deer and bear, hill and plain are one, and that whether scorched by summer's sun or freshened by whiter's rain. Bounteous nature plants the fields, brings forth the tender verdure, cures the grass, and stores the acorns. Little of frozen winter is here, little of damp, malarious sum- mer ; cool invigorating nights succeed the warmest days. Ice and snow banished hence sit cold and stolid on distant peaks, whence are reflected the impotent rays of the sun. Where then is winter ? November drops its gentle rain upon the sun-burned ground, closing the weatlier- cracks, freshening the Lydian air, and carpeting the late gray hills and vales in green ; and this is winter. Spring comes warm and wanton, and nature is clad in holiday garb. Summer, dry and elastic, and trem- bling in amethystine light, is fragrant with the odor of dried grass, cypress, wild bay, and juniper. Tlie heat of summer is seldom enervating, and the thick sullen fogs that creep in from the ocean are not WONDERS OP THE REGION. t unhealthy. The cUmate of CaUfornia is reliable; though her women may be fickle, her winds are not. llaiii she sends at rain-time, and this having passed prayers are <jf no avail. Thus along the centuries seasons come and go, while over all diurnally sweeps the half-tropic sun. In the broad arch float flocks of light clouds, or spread out in long fleecy folds between which at night silently sails the melancholy moon. From the sparkling white on alpine donie^ the gray and golden sunlight smiles across the amphitheatre, enfolds the lustrous clouds which send shadows crawlhiij alony: the mountain- side and over the plains, nods with its earliest rays to sleepy ocean, dances back from sea to snow-peak ; then, pal[)itating in purple, it rises from violet-banks and grizzly hills, and mingles with the russet liaze of the horizon, or creeps in tenderer tones through evanescent mists into deep cailons and murky ravines, and glows warm and tremulous over the sombre shades below. cntle ,ther- r the inter, ilad in trcm- odor The thick not Before descending to the more practical affairs of life in this region, I might point you out some of the so-called wontlers of the arena-rim ; though I may say to 3'ou that long since 1 arrived at the conclusion that there is in heaven or earth no one thing more wonderful than another. With whatsoever we are un- familiar, that to us is wonderful when seen; wonder is l)ut the exclamation of iijnorance. Yonder at the northern end, lonely and white, stands Blount Shasta, girdled by lesser volcanic peaks tliat look like pigmies beside the monarch of the north which liftt '^'! front so proudly above the solenui forest- sea that iMJtfts in niournful monotones upon its base. To one not cradle(! amid such sights its awful grandeur beside our puny life is crushing. Standing in the clear atmosphere, unrivalled and apart, like Orion it catches from over the eastern r'uhre the first ravs of morninjj, and flashes them far down the vista; while at evening THE VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. its frosty diadem gleams with the glances of the departing sun long after the shades of night have overspread the surrounding hills. Before us at the portal two sentinels, Helena and Diablo, guard either side, with Tamalpais picketed near the entrance ; while far to the south, over the Tulare lakes and meadows, from the cold starlit ether or glowing hi the roseate hues of day, the tall obelisks and stately domes and bristling minarets of mounts Brewer, Whitney, and Tyndall look down in grave guardianship. Proud ininmtability ! Yet whether dripping with slimy sea-beds, or being graven by glaciers, or smoothed into forms of comeliness by tempest, these mighty ministers to needful lowlands do nevertheless slowly crumble in decay, and with their dust feed forest and flower. So man is laid low, and mind. A little to our left, and almost hidden by granite- waves and conoldal domes that rise out of broad fir- planted snow-fields, yawns the plateau-rent of Yosem- ite. It lies in the Sierra foothills, nearly at right angles to their trend, and consists of a trough-like erosion, or sink, about a mile in perpendicular depth, six miles in lengtii, with a flat bottom from half a mile to a mile in irregular width. Angles and square recesses press mto walls of light gray granite, bril- liantly white under the reflection of the sun's rays, in places reddened by moss, fantastically carved, or stained with vertical parallel stripes of brown and black. Over these smooth white walls the ]\Ierced and its tributaries leap in wavy silver threads, and dashing in dusty foam upon the chasm floor, intone eternal hallelujahs. Any one of the scores of domes, and peaks, and perpendicular channels, and lichen- covered i)recipices that here present themselves taken apai-t constitutes of itself a study. Climbing up the outer side of the basin, and emer- ging from tlie level forest that covers the thick flat rim and veils the approach to the chasm, the tourist '% I YOSEMITE. 9 of late r times sharply reins in his stood — if so bo that the jatled cayusc ro(iuires it — dismounts, and stands on Inspiration point, a roek}' eminence com- manding a partial view of the valley. Here every one who writes a book stands spell-bound as if in the presence of the almighty, beholds a new heaven and a new earth, feels the onmipotence and majesty of the infin'.:e, attempts in vain to give his vision utter- ance, indulges in a sublime fit of rhapsody, and then drops into mesmeric silence. Old life and ordinary emotions are suspended, and a new tide of feeling rushes in upon the soul. The mortal part of man shrinks back, and the immortal prostrates the beholder before this api>arition of majesty and desolation. Entering at the lower end by the Mariposa trail, a general view of the valley is obtaineil, which displays first, on the left, the granite-block El Capitan, a smooth seandess battlement, rising clearly cut 3,300 feet in height; and on the right the Bridal Veil ftill, a white cascade of fluttering gossamer, leS,]>ing from the western edge of Cathedral rock 630 feet, when striking the heaped-up debris at the base of the cliff, it continues in a series of cascades 300 feet perpen- dicular to the bottom, where it flows off in ten or twelve streamlets. Summer dries the Virjjin's Tears that fall o[)})osite the Bridal Veil, for their source is not the eternal snow of the high sierra. When the stream that feeds the fall runs low, nearly all the water is dissipated by the wind, which first sways, then scatters it, and finally breaks it into (piivering s[>ray, which the tardy sun, wh.Mi it ai)[)ears, gilds with rainbows. Over the floor of the enclosure is spread a varie- gated carpet fit for a palace of the gods. jVIoadows of thick grass are interspersed with flt)wers and flowering shrubs, and fringed with thickets of inanzanita, alder, maple, and laurel, and groves of oak, cedar, and fir, with occasional moss-covered rocks, marshes, and patches of sand; while high up on the battlement, 10 THE VALLEY OP CALIFORNIA. clinging to crevice and shelving rock, are tall grace- ful fcrna, with branches of the most delicate tracery, which from their dizzy height look like tiny shrubs. United with grandeur are sweet freshness and melody ; mingling with iris-hued mists is the fragrance of flowers, and with the music of the waters the songs of birds. Receiving and giving rest to the troubled waters after their fearful leap is still the Merced river, which winds through the valley in sharp angu- lar bends, striking first one side and then the other. It is some seventy feet in width, and as transpar- ent almost as air ; indeed, so deceivingly limpid is it, that the unwary tourist who steps into it is soon beyond his depth. So too in regard to everything in and around this r3tjion of vastness ; dimensions are so stupendous that judgment is confounded ; the in- experienced eye cannot measure them. Distance is cheated of its effect ; until perhaps, one toils in vain all day to accomplish what appears to be no difficult task, when the mistake is discovered and the eye is straimd no lonofer. Now and then a huge boulder, breaking from its long resting-place, comes crashing down the precipice, thundering in loud reverberations throughout the chasm. Sometimes in spring a flood bursts on Yosemite, when there is a tunmlt of waters, and high carnival is held in the valley. Scores of newly- born streams and streamlets fall from the upper end, and along the side roar a hundred cataracts wliose united voices might waken Endymion. Pyramids of mist stand on the chasm floor, and ribbons of white waters twenty or thirty feet apart hang against black walls, or fall like comet's tails side by side, with jets shooting out from either side like arrows, weaving gauzy lace-work and forging fairy chains. In May and June the streams are flush, and the monotone of falling waters is broken by crash and boom like angry surf striking the shore; but as au- tumn approaches, the roaring cataracts dwindle to DIZZY WATERFALLS. n on i I mere threads, which are shattered to mist in their descent, or disapi)car entirely. Frost d ispels a portion of the summer haze, and the air of whiter is clear and cold. Tiie granite walls glisten in a net-work of ice, and the frozen vapor whirls through the canon, smit- ing the clhfs, and overspreading the domes in layers of white, which, as they thicken, loosen their hold, slide oif in huge masses, and striking upon the debris piles, break into powder, and fill the gorge to the brim with fine particles of frozen mist, which sparkle like diamond dust. Further upward in the valley, just beyond the Bridal Veil, is Cathedral rock, and still a little further, shooting up in graceful pinnacles. The Spires. Then on the left come the Three Brothers, called by the natives Pompompasus, or Leaping Frogs; and jiro- jcctlng from the o})posite side the obelisk-formed Sen- tinel rock, which rises from the river, like a watch-tower, over three thousand feet. Across the valley from Sentinel rock, and fed exclusively by melting snows, is the great Yosemite fall, the largest in the world, if height and volume both be considered, being fifteen times as high as Niagara, and most indescribably grand. Springing from the verge of the chasm, over a smoothly polished, perpendicular wall of fifteen hun- dred feet, and swaying in the wind like a scarf of lace, the water strikes upon a rough, inclined shelf, over wliicli, ragged with foam, or spread out in transparent aprons, it rushes in a series of cascades equal to 625 feet perpendicular to the verge, when, with a final plunge of 400 feet, this most magnificent of half-mile leaps is consummated. No small portion of tlie water which drops from the top, and which widens and scatters in its descent, is dashed into spray before reaching the bottom; yet enough is left, even in the dryest part of the season, to send a deep, hoarse roar reverberating through the canon. Two miles above the Yosemite fall, the valley splits into three canons, at the head of the middle one of 19 THE VALLFA- OF TALIFORNIA. which tumhlos the Mcrcod, here a fleecy mass of foam. Down the canon to the left flows the Yenat^a, and down the one to the riglit the Ilhlouettc. Here, at tlie upper end of tlie valley proper, where the river branciies with the branch in*; chasm, in the outer anoflo of Ycnajija canon, we find tiic Washington Column, and the Royal Arches, and back of these the North Dome, a rtmnded mass of overla[)|)ing, concentric, granite plates. On the opposite side of Yenaga canon are the Half Dome and Cloud's Rest, and in the canon, !Mirror lake. Ascending the Merced through the middle canon, besides two miles of cascades in which the river de- scends over two thousand feet, we find two magnificent falls, surrounded by (ue grandest scenery, — Vernal fall, which makes up in volume and impressive beauty what it lacks in height, and the Nevada fall, with the Cap of Liberty near it. The Illilouette branch of the Merced also has a beautiful fall. Thus, amid sentinels of granite, and mighty battle- ments, and musical cascades, and roaring cataracts, witli its verdure-clad floor, and its time-worn walls curtained in glistening gossamer, cold in its colors though they be of dazzling brightness, wrapped in veils t)f silvery mist round which in drapery of pris- matic hues Iris dances, or illuminated with airy clouds of frozen spray, Yosemite sits enthroned. Above and beyond, cold, silent, and white, stretches the ijrcat rauije on whose sunnnit lies the snow that, melting, tunes the viols of a hundred cataracts. A fitting play -ground ft)r the state, truly! A wonder worthy of California! Travel the world over and you will find no counterpart; there is no wonder like our wonder. Even a Yosemite rivulet may boast its sheer half-mile of precipice. All here is grand and unique ; all of characteristic bigness except water, but Californians were never specially partial to water! I say Yosemite has no counterpart — I should rather HETCH-HETCHY. It say outside of California. Here wc have others, so that if the grout chasm of chasms sliould ever be k)st to us, we still sh<)ul(> not be without our wonder. There is tlie Little Yosemite valley above the Nevada fall, with its concentric granite structures, and the same river flowing tlirough it in beautiful cascades; and there is the Hetch-hetchy valley, which, if a little less grand than the Yosemite, would answer well enough in place of it. The Hetch-hetchy chasm walls tlie Tuolumne river about sixteen miles north-west from Yos« mite. It is three miles in length, from an eiglith to half a mile in width, with walls not quite mo high as those of the Yosemite, tliough the volume (►f water flowing into it is nmch greater. It extends in the same direction as Yosemite, has a perpendicular blurt' — the {•ounterpar\ of El Capitan, a larger stream fed hv the meltiuir snows which fall over a clift' 1,000 feet in heiglit; has in the Hetch-hetchy fall, 1700 feet in height, the counterpart of the Yosemite fall, with its Cathedral rock, 2,270 feet in height; finally, at its upi>cr end, it splits into two canons instead of three as at Yosemite. All along the base of the Sierra, and niountiiig u])ward to its sunnnit, arc innu- merable valleys, meadows and spritigs, lakes, water- falls, and cascades, eroded canons, polished domes, and Volcanic spindles, finger posts of the early gold-seekers, obelisk groups, table mountains, kettles, chests, forts, caves, bridges, sugar-loaves, cathedral-peaks, and uni- corn peaks ; the which, if they should be described every one, I suppose that even the world itself could not contain the books that would be written. Many mighty chasms we have on this Pacific slope beside the Yosemite canon of the Merced, and the Hetch- hetchy canon of the Tuolunme. There is the Amer- ican river with its north and south forks down two or three thousand feet in hard slate. The Columbia and the Fraser rivers have their fifty miles and more of gorges several thousand feet deep; and grander yet, the Kinjj river canon, with its hard granite walls f II THE VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. from three to seven thousand feet deep. Then, grand- est of all is the grand cafion of the Colorado, 300 miles long, and from 3,000 to 6,200 feet in depth, also the result of erosion. There are likewise many other noted wonders in California, as Bower cave near by, with its cleft, per- pendicular chamber walls and subterranean lake, dell, grotto, and grove ; the Alabaster stalactite cave of El Dorado on our rijrht; the Calaveras cave of skulls in which, when discovered, were found human skeletons coated with carbonate of lime; the Santa Cruz cave, and nun;erous natural bridges. Bower cave, situated in Mariposa county, consists of a crevice in the lime- stone hollowed out by water; hence it is open at the top but widens out cave-like beneath the surface. It is 133 feet long, 109 feet deep, and 80 feet wide. Three maple trees grow within it, sending their branches out througli the split roof, and the water on the bottom is so transparent, that the deep cavities which are worn on either side above and below, may be distinctly followed beneath the surface to a depth of forty feet. Alabaster cave, in Placer county near Auburn, is a large cav ity, discovered by lime-burners while quarryhig. There are two chambers, one 100 by 200 feet, and the other 25 by 100 feet, and from 4 to 20 feet in depth. Brilliant stalactites of various shades and shapes hang in irregular rows, hitersperscd w^ith spaces stained with a sort of grotesque graining. One of the chambers, called the Crystal Chapel, looks like an embowered arctic region petrified. Over a branch of the Trinity river natu^-e has thrown a ledge of rocks 300 eet wide and 150 feet thick, under which runs the stre m through an arch 80 feet wide and 20 feet high, u nong others, Coyote creek, in Tuolumne county, is spa aed by two natural bridges. To these sc« les of grandeur and beauty vegetation contributes it> quota. Among twenty clusters of mammoth trees, there are eight principal groves, of MAMMOTH TREES. IS J which thfi Mariposa and Calaveras are chief. Tlie ouca- 1\ |)tuH of Australia is a tailor tree than the sccjuoia j^l>j"antca of California — Wellingtonea gi«rant<'a these trees were once oalh'd ; hut this could not he tolerated in a lafid where is celchratod the 4th of July, and so the nainc^ was clianged to Washingtonea; hut lately, arborists say simply sequoia gigantea. Taking height, bulk, and numbers together, if not the tallest and old- est, we have here the grandest groups of forest trees upon this planet. The Mariposa grove, which, with the Yosemlte valley was given by congress to the state of California f )r public use and recreation, is situated thirty miles from Yosemite, and con'^'^-ins, scattered among smaller trees, over 200 which are more than twelve feet in diameter. Sixty of them, measured six feet from the ground, have diameters of from 27 to 07 feet, and in heiijfht are from 187 to 270 feet. The Grizzlv Giant measures on the surface 9^ feet in circumference. Through the hollow of a prostrate trunk, two horse- men ride abreast for a distance of 100 feet. One hundred feet above the ground, a trunk which is there twenty feet in diameter, puts out a branch six feet hi thickness. The trees are straight, with gracefully tapering jrunks, fluted bark of a light cinnamon color, and small coniform tops. In the Calaveras grove there are about 100 trees of the larger sort, thirty of which measure from 230 to 2.35 feet in hei<dit, and from 30 to 45 feet in circumference six feet from the ground. Five men occupied twenty -two days in felling one of them, which was accomplished by bor- ing through the trunk with pump-augers. After it was completely severed, wedges had to be driN en in on one side to overturn it. This tree is estimated to have been 1,300 years okl; its bark was a foot and a half thick, and upon its stump, which six feet from the ground has a diameter of twenty-seven feet, after squaring and smoothing it, was erected a pavilion for dancing and pleasure parties. ^ 18 THE VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. We will now tnrn to quite a different scene Round Sfc. Helena, once a bellowing crater, and the chimney of hifernal furnace-fires, the earth's crust softens, steams with Internal heat, and appears with its comlincss marred so as to expose the mysteries of unadorned earth ; for terraqueous nature, as well as human nature, has its unseemly side, its infirmities, and sinks of corruption. On one side of St. Helena are the steaming sulphuric springs and boiling mud of Calistoga, and on the other that pit of Acheron, the Geysers. Surely the balance of power must be pre- served, the heaven of California must have its hell; aye, let nature boast har abnormities, nor be outdone by that hungry human horde which rushed in hither and lined the streets of every mining camp with scores of hells. Three miloa away one hears the puff and roar as of ocean steamt;A>i, and sees the ascending smoke and steam. In the approach there is no Point of Inspira- tion; but Hog's Backs, and steep, angular glades, down which Jehu drives with such headlong speed as makes the timid passenger to shiver, and prepares the tourist for the enjoyment Plutonic pleasures. To one gazing from the mountain brow upon this monstrosity of nature, God is not in all his thoughts, but Satan and his hissing emissaries ; here is no new heaven and earth, but a nether realm, with sty- gian odors that offend the nostrils. He who first discovered the beauties of Yosemite was struck speechless as at the portal of paradise. The hunter Elliott, who in 1847 chased a bear into the vallc}"^ of tne Pluton, spying the Devil's canon turned and fled, and on reaching his companions ex- claimed : " Boys 1 I have found hell 1 " Around the cool deep crystal waters of Clear Lake are numerous soda springs, sulphur banks, and borax deposits. Down the western slope of the western ridge that bounds this region, in the heart of a tangled forest once well fctuclved with game, flows the Pluton river, a THE GFA'SERS. ir is no sGinite radise. ir into canon IS ex- es forest Ivcr, a merry tuinblino^ stream from twenty to thirty feet in in widtli, formerly almost alive with trout, and shaded 1)V the foliage of overhanging vines and branches. At rig] it angles to the Pluton canon, from its northern side, is a o'orge about half a mile in length, and but a few rods in unequal width, with steep walls rising from 50 to 150 fiet. This little off-shoot is called the Devil's canon. From its entrance at the Pluton canon its uneven i-urface rises, and at the upper end it divides in two, and mingles with the hills. A little creek with niinia- ture falls and cascades runs through it, whose waters jit tlieir scmrce are pure and cold, but which as they <Ioscend soon become contaminated by their surround- ings. Sometimes a i)artial footpath winds by the stream, betwi i-n the rocks and mobile earth, but often it is undermined or swept away. The entrance is but a narrow rocky pass, roofed by fallen, but yet grow- ing trees, adorned with fantastic roots, and partially covered with debris and creeping plants. This en- trance is called Proserpine's Grotto, and beyond it the cailon widens a little. The scene within is barren and ghastly. Bottom and sides are skinned of every sign of vegetation, and scorlated with suljihur, salts, and sl'my deposits. Around the upper portion of the sides, the earth assumes a reddish hue, below which it is marbled with the ghastly colors of festering flesh, patches of pale ashen and white, patches of frreen and slaty stain, yellow sulphur snow and black sulphur root, with all the intermediate shades of death and dissolution. Hot springs burst forth from hot ground, spitting, sputtering, hissing and panting in unmanageable wrath. Through whistling steam and sickcninir sul- phur, yawn horril)le mouths like the gates of Aver- nus. It is as utterly infernal a place as can well be imagined, lurid and murky, and sickening with heavy vapor. In every hole and corner this model Pande- monium seems iidiabited by shadowy fiends, and every fiend to be doing his best to render his little Cal. Int. Poc. 2 18 THE VALLEY OF CAI IFORNIA. crevice the particular liell of the place.* On the bottom and along the sides are two hundred grinnhig mouths spurthig liquids of every hue. Into tliis sower of desolation and dire combustion, midst hissing vapor and the stench of decomposing drugs, vomit white blue and black sulphur springs, boirmg alum, cpsom salts, and magnesia springs; iron and soda springs; conglomerate and nondescript medicated mixtures, until the little rivulet, nauseated by tlic vile compound, turns wheyish in color, emits a faint gurgle, tosses feverishly on its rocky bod, and then slndvs along its slimy way. Round stinking pools that fill the air with their fetid breath, are incrusta- tions of iron, tartaric acid, copperas, and verdigris. The clammy ground, crispy with sulphuric crystals, rough with scoria3, quakes and sends forth noxious gases. Waves of sulphuric seas thump against the thin crust of the seemingly hollow earth ; jets of liquid black leap hissing from blue-vitriol nuid, and a cavernous roar echoes through the pitchy glen. Nature, sick with sore boils, eaten by acids, palslod and jaundiced, is smothered with alopathic abomina- tions. Pass Proserpine's Grotto and ascend the canon. Pick your way carefully and plant your feet in the footprints of the guide, else your legs may suffer for the neglect. First there is an Iron and Alum si)ring, with a temperature of 97° Fahrenheit ; then the Medicated Geyser bath, containing h^on, sulphur, cpsom salts and magnesia; Eye Water spring, om- nipotent against ophthalmia ; and in the order men- tioned Boiling Alum and sulphur spring, Black Sul- plmr spring, Epsom Salts spring. Boiling Black sulpjiur spring. The largest spring is the Witches' Cauldron, situated two-thirds of the distance up tJie canon, and the loudest the Steamboat Spring at the head of the caiion. The Witches' Cauldron is a hole or sink six or seven feet in diameter, of unknown depth, and with a temperature of 292° Fahrenheit. I VALLEY OP THE PLUTON. 10 n the inning o tins lissing vomit alum, (i scxla liicated by tlic a faint d then T pools icrusta- !rdi;j;ris. rystals, noxious inst the jets of I, and a )alslod oniina- canon. in the Vor for spring, icn the lulphur, nir, om- V.' ' r nien- ^k Sul- Black Pitches' up the at the a hole |ik!io\vn enheit. Seething and swashing like a troublous witches broth stirred by subterranean imps, with no visible outlet, its thick l)lack liquid bubbling sometimes to a height of tliree or four feet, the bank near by begrimed like a eliimney-back and just above blooming with beauti- ful Kul[>hur crystals, Dante himself could not conceive a more [jcrfect stygian pool. This black vapory pit has been called also the Devil's Punch Bowl. It is an insult to his Majesty, who knows full well how to brew tiood punch. Every si)ring lias its voice, its own peculiar strain ; its busy l)abl)le, or surly grumble, or hollow moan, or impotent sputter, or testy hiss, or angry roar, or wild shriek, its vain spoutings or gleesome gurgle, and throughout the ages the infernal choir ceases not to deliver its united and discordant strains. But loud above all voices and high above all sounds are tlic puffings and roaring pulsations of tlie Steamboat Geyser, which sends from the hillside in several fitful volumes, through orifices from an inch to a foot in diameter, columns of hot vapor to heights of from 50 to 200 feet. The sounds of which the name is exi)ressive, are like those proceeding from the escape ]>ipe of an engine. The roar is continuous, though broken by pull's and louder bursts, while all around from tiny holes in the spongy ground jets of hot steam shoot upward, with a force and fury significant of the contending elements beneath the surface. Then tliere is the Intermittent Geysc>r, which belcluvs boiling water spasmodically, vsometimes fifteen feet and again only tliree or four feet; the Devil's Ink- stand, which emits through a small aperture a bla( k li<iuid that may be used l\)r writing, and whose stain is indelible; the Devil's Grist-mill with its sputtering clatter; the Devil's Kitchen, the Devil's Bake-oven, the Devil's Wash-tub, the Devil's Tea-kettle, the Devil's Pulpit, and the devil knows what else. All along the banks of this Lethe stream, as you climb, fainting with the heat and smells, between slippery rocks and 20. THE VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA over the seething uncertain ground, your blistering feet perhaps ankle deep in mineral deposits, and lift- ing themselves spasmodically from the heated earth, you may see pools of slaty swash cxiialing a dock- niud stench, steam whizzing through fissures, and black compounds belching from slag and clinkcr- rimmcd holes ; at which strange doings Helena groans afresh, and fallen forest trees ten miles distant shudder and turn to stone. Here, as everywhere in dealing with the unknown, men speculate upon the causes of these phenomena, some holding that they are produced by volcanic action, otliers by purely chemical forces. Side by side, only a few inches apart, are hot springs and cold springs, boil- ing springs and springs whose waters arc undisturbed. An iron pipe terminating in a whistle inserted in one of these steam orifices, sends forth a shrill shriek. On the Pluton is the Indian spring, whither the na- tives, who feared to enter the Devil's canon, have re- sorted from time immemorial to bathe in its healingr waters. There they erected a sweating-house, and thither they carried their sick. Near tlie hot black sulphur bath, which they have made, flows a stream of clear cold water, into which, after their fjishion, they plunge alternately. On one side of the Devil's canon is the Mountain of Fire, honey-combed with dead geysers, and stratifiec' with sulphur, epsom salts, copperas, nitre, ammonia, tartaric acid, cinnabar, magnesia, and yellow ochre. Near by are the vent holes of a crater from which the steam whistles witli great force. In early morning, before the overhang- ing va[)ors are dissipated by the rising sun, the gorge is filled with steam, which rolls off in huge banks be- fore the wind. Above and beyond the edges of this Tartarean pool, round which struggle pale sickly trees, in the valley of the Pluton, and sometimes ap- proaching coyishly to the very verge of the heated waters, mountains, hills, and ravines are overspread with a covering of fresh verdure and wild flowers, SAN FRANCISCO BAY. 21 5G, and black stream ishkm, Devil's witli 1 salts, nabar, ic vent s with rliang- goroe iks bc- )f this sickly es ap- icated prcad wers. made all the more luxuriant and charming by tlie warmth of these infernal fires ; and to complete the picture, at sunrise a weird rainbow, refracted from sulphuric vapor, hovers in clear prismatic hues over the canon, and h>ses itself in the glistening emerald at either end. Turn then away, happy in the thought that nature inflicts on man few such insights into her sf)n!eries, but rather veils in beauty the mysterious chemical processes of her laboratory. Tlie great sink in the Coast Range, which lies before us near the border of the ocean, and into which the waters of the entire valley are drained, is another marvel of nature, though utilized and made common by man. But for the Golden Gate fissure or cleft, which abruptly cuts in two the continuous coast line, large areas in the interior would be perpetually under water. Were the channel tlirough this blutf'-bound gateway less deep, so that the ocean's ebb and flow should not be felt within, San Francisco bav would bo a lake. But better far as it is, a lake-like and wcll- nigli land-locked harbor, larger than Rio de Janeiro, and fairer tlian Naples; with all the glowing haze jind delicious sweetness of the famous Neapolitan air, l)ut without its subtle softness and enervating languor. Mount some warm misty morning to the top of Yerba Buena island, which stands midway between tlie cove to which it gave its name and Oakland ])oint, and the prospect thence will scarcely fail to kindle the eye, to swell the heart, and awaken long- ings for other scenes. From this island's base spreads out a mimic ocean, shaped like an arrow-point, sixty miles in length by four or five in width, wliose radiant waters flhig back the rays of the morning sun, or ripple under the influence of wind and tide, and from whoso borders, wavy hills roll up, smooth and round as the bust of Canova's Venus, or dimpled like a merry school-girl's face. These, interspersed with gen- 22 THE VALI>EY OF CALIFORNIA. 1^1 ll: tier slopes, and radiating valleys and ridges, and minia- ture plains, through wJiicli thread numerous stream- lets, were not long since tlic home of the prowling panther and marauding cov ote, of wild-cat, bear, and deer. Myriads of wild-fowl and sea-birds fished in these waters, and quarreled, filling the air with their shrill cries; while within the bay and without the por- tal, and for 3000 miles along the shore, were seal-rocks, w ith crawling monsters barking, enjoying their siesta, or holding conference like sinful souls in purgatory. Northward there is a maze of undulating elevations, domes ridges and peaks, their outline toward the ocean delicately penciled against the sky, and further inland in the distance is a background of nebulous mountains, the landscape lighted in places by unseen watcrSj and all painted in soft aerial colors of varied depth and tone. Toward the south the ridges on eitlier side recede; the water broadens at fi'^'^^t, then narrowing, melts away in hazy perspective. Beyond is tlic great sea, smiling in azure or fretting in impa- tient green and white, with its silence-breathing surf singing ocean lullabies to the sleepy hills, or rolling in from the horizon huge waves, which, dashing them- selves against then' shore-limits, fall back foaming at their own impotency. Thus sculptured in the heart of the Coast Range, some parts of the bay are narrow and deep like a highland loch, with bluffs and promontories; in otlier parts the water spreads out, and encircles large islands, — Angel, Alcatraz, and Yerba Buena, — or washes a diminutive beach. Its seaward shore is splintered into points and estuaries; on the opposite side are coves and graceful crescents ; while round the northern end, where empties the Sacramento, are bays carved within bays, straits and detp-flowing channels, and sentinel islands and embankments. The northern side of the Golden Gate is a steep, dark, reddish wall, six or oin-ht hundred feet in heiglit. From the top of this wall the hills mount and roll oif THE PEERLESS. 23 1 iiiinia- streaiii- rowling ?ar, and shed in ;li their the por- d-roeks, r siesta, itory. vations, ard the further lebulous unseen f varied jges on "^^t, then Beyond n inipa- hig surf jlhng in them- niing at) Range, hkc a in warm yellowish-green surges round Tamalpais, deepening into purple as they rise in graceful alpine outline and mingle with the clouds. Opposite this bank the waters of the bay and ocean are separated bv a ridge of argillaceous sandstone, severed at the (iolden Gate so as to form a peninsula some six miles at the northern end, and broadening into open high- lands toward the south. Upon these so lately sand- blown hills, freckled with tough, wind-defying shrubbery, beneath whose branches quail and rabbits loved to hide, and birds and rivulets sang together, is )iow being planted the commercial metropolis of the Farthest West; while all around this favored bay, blustering in its strength and radiant in its beauty, and already white with the sails of every ocean, in- dustries are sprhiging up, towns and cities are being built, and a race of men and women developing which some day will make the nations marvel. The bay of Kieselarke has been called golden because of its shin- ing sands; but far more i)roi)er may our beautiful sheet which from the first so gladdened the hearts of tlie followers of St Francis rejoice in that name, for not only are its shores golden, but its hills and skies, its connjierce and its industries, its towns and people are golden. Fair California! clad in verdant spring vesture or resting in arid robes under a metallic sky ; volu})tuous in thy half-tropic bed, in thy sunlit valley warmed with the glow of bronze and rosy lustre, redolent with wild flowers, and billowy with undulating parks and smooth corrugated mounds and swelliiii; heiohts, with waving grass and fragrance-breathing forests, ca})ti- vathig the mind, and ravishing the senses with thy bewitching charms, and smiling plenty in alternate seasons of refreshing rains and restful dryness; witli thy lofty snow-capped peaks, and metal-veined Sierra, and amethystine smooth-browed hills bathed in purple mists and musical with leaping streandets and songs 1 8^ THE VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. of birds; with tliy corridors of sundered stone, and glacier valleys silvered with moonlit lakes, and cool refreshing basins filled with transparent blue; with thy boisterous alpine streams, and (juict lowland rivers, and sluggish waters wanderinti: throULili char- rcterless sloughs; with thy scraggy scattering oaks, and tangled undergrowth, mirrored in crystalline pools, and flowering shrubs, and mighty sable forests; with thy sunlight soft and hazy, and air sea-scented and sparkling yet mellow, sthnulating yet restful, and pure and sweet as that which blows from Araby the Blest, yet strong withal, wooing the sick and care-laden, cooling the vein-swollen brow, thrilling the blood with ocean's stinmlants and giving new life, not stifling it ; with thy native men and beasts, and birds and fishes, and fields of native grain, all hitherto unmarred bv man, all fresh as from the hand of the creator revel- ling in p/inieval joy and fragrance, while the valley murmurs its contentment, and the forest cypress nods its sable plume; crimson purple and violet in thy blushing beauty veiled in misty gauze that rises fresh ami glistening from the sun-beaten ocean, and fills the heavens thick with spray or whirls oii" in eddying clouds round the mountain tops, breakiiig from mina- ret and spire into long streamlets edged by burnished sunlight; voluptuous thus, or fierce in thy wild unrest, in thy lashed energies fiery as A^chilles, whatever be thy mood or circumstance, thou art a song of nature rhijyinor an ever changing melody, thou art tlie smile that lit Jehovah's face when he saw that it was good ! I, and I cool with wlantl char- oaks, pools, ; with •d and d pure Blest, -laden, »d with ling it; tishes, red hv r revel- ; valley ss nods in thy (S fresh Us the ddyinor I nuna- nished unrest, vcr be nature smile t^ood ! t CHAPTER II. THREE CENTURIES OP WILD TALK ABOUT GOLD IN CALI- FORNIA.- 15:17- 18«7. Tlirtisting, toiling, wailing, uuiiling, Frowning, jireacliing — sndi a riot! Each with ni'vt'r-i'oa.siiig lahor, Wiiilst he tliiiiks ill! fheats liis neighbor, C'licating liis own heart of (luiet. ShiUfij. Ix tliose days of unbridled adventure, when man was perm*itt(>d to prey upon his fellow-man, and when the many-sided world was as yet but p;u-tially known to civilization, L(old was the chiefest good that strange lands could vield, and hence every strang(> land, in the imagination or desh-e of its discoverer, abounde<l hi ijrold. So it was that California, even before it was seen by any Si)aniard, was reputed, without reason, lich in irold. What stories Cabeza de Vaca had to tell, when he arrived from the IVIt^xican gulf at Culia- ( an, in 1587, of the vast wealth of this whole northern legion 1 As to the truth of the report, it must be true, for it was the peo[)le of the country who had informed him, thougli in language that he did not understand, and of realms of which they knew noth- ing. From the verv first a strong conviction i)ossessed the minds of the comjuerors of ]\[exico that tlu^ west- ern coast, ]>articularly tow.ird tlu; north, was rich in gold and pearls; an<l so all through the century suc- cessive ex])(!ditions were sent to the gulf of California, and to the pt'iiinsula. That most reverend and truthful man, Francis Fletcher, preacher to the jiirate Drake, who, because God commanded Adam to subdue the earth, felt it (86) 2C THREE CENTUTvIES OF WILD TALK. Ills duty, as miuistcr of God and son of Adam, to ^^o abroad on tliis eartli, and kill and steal to the full limit of his capabilities; and who felt it likewise his duty "to register the true and whole history of that his voyage, with as great indifferency of aflection as a history doth require, and with the plain evidence c.f truth," — this right rare and thrice worthy gentleman, as ho would say of his captain, saw strange things in California; that Is to say, things strange to those who know California, but credible enough three hundred years ago to those who were never nearer to the spot than its antipode. In July of 1571), the pirate, as his preacher says, was met by peculiar and nipping colds. The natives, he affirms, "vsed to come shivering to vs in their warme furres, crowding close together, body to body, to receiue heate one of another." Oh! "how vnhandsomc and deformed appeared the face of the earth it selfel" Birds dared not leave their nests after the first (Vg was laid until all were hatched; but nature had favored these poor fowl, so that they might not die in the operation. The causes of these ])henomena he next explains on scientific principles. Because Asia and America are here so near together, and by reason of the high mountains and the like, "hence comes the generall squalidnesse and barren- nesse of the countrie; hence comes it that, in the middcst of their summer the snow hardly departeth euen from their very doores, but is neucr taken away from their hils at all ; hence come those thicke mists and most stinking foggcs." Inland the country was better. " Infinite was the company of very large and fat Deere, which there we sawe by thousands . . . besides a nmltitude of a strange kind of Conies . . . his tayle like the taylo of a Rat." The savages were exceedingly edified by the words of the preacher, by his psalm-singhig, and his reading of the scriptures ; so much so, that when the gentle pirates took their leave, "with sighes and sorrowings, with hcauy hearts and grieued minds, they powred out wofull complaints I ■4 i 'C. THE PIRATES rRKACHER. 27 , to ^'O he full Aac liis of that on as a L'lice c.f tleinan, ihigs iu )S0 who luticlrcd he spot 3, as his if colds. ;ring to jgetlur, ." Ohl^ e face of uir nests latched ; lat they of these inciples. ogether, he like, barren- in the sparteth m away ie mists try was rjjfe and As . . . ies . . . \es were :lier, bv iptures ; bk their ' hearts 1 plaints and moan(>s, with bitter tearcs and wrinj^ing of their hands, toruH'iitinjj; theinselues." This was exccedinj^ly like tlie Callfoniia Dii'i'er, as was also their king, bcf( ■h h )f a U Lp|)earnig, "came a man body and goodly as[)oct, bearing the Septer or royall mace, . . . whereupon hanged two crownes, a bigger and a lesse, with three chaines of a maruellous lengtli," and so on. It was with ditticulty that the English- men picvented these people from worshipping them, and oif'Ting sacrifice as unto gods ; and the eagerness witli which tluy accepted Elizabeth for their sovereign was i)l('asant to see. But about gold? "There is no jiart of earth," says tlie preacher, "here to be taken up wlierein tlu^re is not a reasonable quantity of gold or silver." And again: "The earth of the country siHiined to promise rich veins of gold and silver, some of the ore being constantly found on digging." Even a school-ijfirl would recoijnize in this the extra vaij^ance of fiction. Climates change; simple savages might mistake Drake's buccaneers for gods; but if gold and silver ever existed amid the rocks and hills in the neighborhood of Drake bay, the world has yet to know it. In Ids Noficia de la California, Miguel Venegas, speaking of tlie voyage of Sebastian Vizcaino along the shore of Upper California in 1G02, draws attention to the royal cedula of the IDtli of August, IGOn, granting Vizcaino permission to explore California, and inserts that document in the first volume of his his- toi'v. The kiiu' savs, referrin<; to Vizcaino's voyaije of IG02, "que descubrio el dicho Sebastian Vizcaino en la costa en mas de ochocientas leguas, que anduvo, so informo, y que todos decian, haver latierra adentro grandes poblaciones, y plata, y oro," — that the said Vizcaino was told by the Indians aloiiir the whole coast of 800 leat'-ues which he discovered, of lartre S(>t- tlements in the interior, and of silver and gold. " Whence Vizcaino is inclined to believe," the king continues, "that great riches may be discovered, es- 28 THIIEE CENTURIES OF WILD TALK, i iv pooially as in sonic parts of the land veins of metals arc to be scon;" — porquc en alijjunas partes en la tiorra firnie dcscubrian betas dc nietales. Thus, there is little wonder tluit very early the rumor was abroad that tliore was <fold in California, thou«j;h without any foundation, as the interior had never yet been visited by white men. As far from the truth as the preacher's story and the king's story, is the statement passed from one writer to another without conmient, that I^oyola Ca- bello, a priest of the mission of San Jose, bay of San Francisco, on returning to Spain published, in 1000, a work on Alta Callfoniia, in which the existence of gold in placers was mentioned. I do not know whom to jiold res[)onsible for starting this fiction, though one Goori^o jNI. Evans has been active in cU'culatinix it. We can only wonder that so many respectable persons have re[)eated it as fact. In the first place no such bonk was ever })ublished. Secondly, in 1 090, and for nearly a century thereafter, there was no San Jose mission on the Bav of San Francisco, though there was a San Jose del Cabo, near Ca|)e St Lucas. Lastly, if there was such a man, and such a book, and such a place, there was no gold there. Fortunately for mankind, believing a thing, or fan- cying a belief in it, be it never so sincerely or strongly, does not make it true; nor is seeing always believing, when perforce, one must see through the eyes of sail- ors, whose statements are proverbially unreliable. "Do Gualle saw many islands eastward of Japan in latitude 32° and 33',' Sfivs old Arthur Dobbs; and sailing further cast, he saw many populous and rich islands, some with volcanoes, which abounded with gold, cotton, and fish. . .Gemelli mentions rocks seen in latitude 30°, and an island said to be rich in gold ; and also another in latitude 32°, called Rica de Plata, which from their names and abounding in gold, may be supposed to be well iidiabited." By how many have these gold bearing islands been DIVERS DKCKPTKINS. metals cii la 4. tlicro al)rt)a«l )ut any visited »rv and i)ni one ola Ca- of San n 1090,^ :enco oi w whom iU;jjh one itinur it. I persons no such , and fi»r Ian Jose fh there Lastly, such a [, or fan- ^tron<j;ly, >hevln*2;, of sail- (relial)le, apan in ^hs; and md rich with ^ks seen lin <]fold ; ;,ica de icling in labited." Ids been since visited, antl how nmch metal has been taken from them ? Perliaps twenty times the followlnj^ passajjfo in Shflvix'Le, A l'(>i/<i(/r licnnid tlic World in 171i)~2'J, by no means a rare or remarkable book, has been pointed out to me by men whoso superficial investii^ations have led them to believe that jjjold was known to exist ill California nearly two centuries a_<j;o. Here is the passage : " The eastern coastof that part of California which I had a sight of, appears to bo mountainous, barren and sandy, and very like some parts of Peru; but nevertlieless, the soil about Puerto Seguro, and very likely in most of the valleys, is a ricli, black mould, which as you turn it fresh up to the sun ap- pears as if inti-rmingled with gold dust, some of which we endeavored to wash and i)urify from the dirt; but though wo were a little prejudiced against the thoughts tl'.at it could bo possible that this metal should be so promiscuously and universally mingled with common earth, vet wo endeavored toclcanscand wash the earth from some of it, and the more wo did the more it appeared like gold; but in order to be fuHher satisfietl, I brought away some of it which we lost in our confusions in Chii^a." Now in the first place this navigator — whose map bv the wav shows the two Californias too:ether as an island — never was in Alta California at all; and sec- ondly, he may or he may not have seen particles of something resembling gold at Cape St Lucas, the only point at which he touched. In a word, what- ever he saw or said has nothing whatever to do with the discovery of gold in the Sierra foothills. And yet I have seen printed in more than one Pacific coast newspaper this statement of Shelvocke's without any reference to the fact, and apparently without the knowledge of it, that the California referred to was not Tipper California, At the time Shelvocke was engaged in his circum- navigation, the Hudson's Bay Company was explor- 30 THllEE CENTURIES OF WILD TALK. ing to the westward. Almost as much as gold-pro- (luchig mountains tlie world wanted inter-oceanic communication. From Patagonia, northward, nearly to the land's end, the seaboard had been searched in vain for a passage ; only the part between Hudson bay and the Pacific remaining yet unexplored. In 1719 two vessels, the jUhany Frirjatc, Captain (Jrcorge Barlow, and the Discovery, Captain David Vaughn, wvre fitted out for the purpose of examining the the western side of Hudson bay, and passing thence through the strait of Anian into the Pacific. This strait, the discover}'' of whicli was so eagerly de- sired, was believed to exist ; it was even laid down in charts, and there were some who said that they had seen it, others that tliey had entered it, though all tlie while it existed onlv in imagination. James Knight was given command of the expedition, and was "with the first opportunity of wind and weather, ti) depart from (irravesend on his intended voyage, and by God's })ermission, to find out the strait of Anian, in order to discover gold and other valuable commodities to the northward." !Mr Knight entered upon the task with enthuslam, though then eiglity years of age, and " procured, and took with lilm some largo iron-bound chests to held gold- dust and other valuables, which he fondly fiattered hnnself were to be found in those parts." Not hear- ing from the expedition, many conjectured, as Sanmel Hearne remarks, "that IVIessrs Kniijht and Barlow had found that passage, and had gone through it into the South Sea by the way of California," and it was not known until fifty years later, when Hearne was undertaking his Coppermine river expedition, that they had not found the Anian strait, and had not filled their iron-bound chests with the gold of Califor- nia, but had all been lost in Hudson bay. The Shining Mountains — as the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Range were called by those who wrote geography a hundred years ago — were deemed from GOLD IX THE SHINING MOUNTAINS. 31 )kl-pro- occanic , iiearlv clicd ill Hudson ed. Ill George '^auglin, iiiil the passing Pacific, erly de- down in ley hatl thouiih James on, and I id and ntended out the )ld and 1." Mr tliougli id took lid jT^old- attered )t hear- Saniuel Bailow it into it was ne was tliat lad not )vada wrote frc current reports something wonderful long before their treasures were disclosed. " This extraordinary range of mountains," says Jonathan Carver in 1700, "is cal- culated to be more than 3,000 miles in length, with- out any very considerable intervals, which I believe sarj)assos any tiling of tlie kind in the other quarters of tlie ^i^lolte. Probably in future ages they may be found to contain more riches in their bowels than those of Indostan and Malabar, or that are ]m)duced on the Gokh'U coast of (jruinea ; nor will I excejit ev(Mi the Peruvian mines." No little excitement occurred in Mexico aliout the time of the expulsion of the Jesuits, who, it was re- ]);)rt(xl, had found extensive deposits of gold on the ]u>ninsula of California, and had concealed the fact from the government. It was hi the rivers, hi the rocks, an<l in the soil, peojilo said, and the supposed concealment as to the spot containing the precious nu>tal, on the part of the Jesuits, tended in no wise toward delaying their enforced departure. To prove the matter Josd (lalvez, marquis of Sonora, accom- panied by Miguel Jose de Azanza, in 1769 passed over into (California and instituted a search. A few weeks of fruitless endeavor satisfied Azaiiza, who r(>turned to Mexico, saying that the numpiis was insane to continue tlie search : for the expression of which opinion Azanza was incarcerat(^d, and kept in jirison for a time, (ialvez found notlung, however, though the Jesuits afterward affirmed inFrance that it was true they had found gold. Tiiis was jn-obably said in order to occasion regret in the minds of those who had caused their expulsion. Ail this of course is irn^le- vant to the present ])urpose, except that in the loose and general refi-rence made to the event, it is not stat{>d, and often not known, that the J(>suits were never in Upjier California, and that the search of (lalvez and A^zanzt was confined strictly to the penin- sula of Lt.- ,r Caiif'irnia. Such facts, mutilated and misstated, floatin<jr iti the ■t 32 THREE CENTURIES OF WILD TALK. minds of ij^iioraiit persons who receive them at second or twentietli hand, lead to remarks like the followinj^ by Mr Simpson, author of Three Weeks in the Gold /iV/Z/ms, published hi 1848. "It" also known that an expedition was fitted out by the governor of Sonora during the last century, which owing to various dis- couragements failed. In his Travels in Mexien, when near the mouth of the Colorado in IS'Jfi, Lieutenant Hardy sajs: "The sand is full of a glittering sort of tinsel, which shines beautifully when the sun is ujion it. It is common all over Sonora, and is, I imagine, nothing more than broken laniiuje of talc, the surface of which being })robably in a state of decom})osition, the original color is c!-anged to that of cop})er and gold. It ciiinibles easily between the fingers, and cannot there- fore^ be metidlic; but its delusi\e appearance may pos- sibly have given rise to the reports, which were sj>read, as it is supposed, by the Jesuits, who formerly tMideavored to make an establishment upon the river, of t;old dust beino: intermixed with the sand." Fav- ette Kobinson thinks the Jesuit j)riests were aware of the existence of gold in California, meaning Lower California, but can-fully diverted the attention of tiie natives from it in favor of mission labor. Oslo in his manuscript Jlisforia <le California expresses the opinion that the Franciscans were too busy with conversions to ascertain whether the river sands held gold. The recent conjectures, he savs, that thev knew of gold are not probable, because the secret could not have been kept among so many. Since 1775 the Mexicans have met with silver in the vicinitv of the Colorado, and some sav with small de- posits of placer gold, but with none that would yield profitable returns. Very soon after the organization of the missions in Lower California, converted Indians sent iito tlie upper country to persuade the natives there to listen to tlie teaciiings of the padrer,, talked, on their return, of the shining sand that they saw in St SHININfi SANDS OF CALIFORNIA. 88 second llovvinj^j le (/old ,'n that Soiiora aus clis- outli of : "The ti sliines ?oiumou >re than h boiiujf original old.' It )t tliorc- [uay pos- ch were formerly 10 river, " Fay- aware of I Lower n of tiie no in his 3 opinion versions d. The of gold ot have ler in tlie iniall de- dd yield Ization of lianssent :>s there |ked, on saw In the streams, and in the ravines which thoy had traversed. But so conunon were these reports, so fiiniiJlar were the conquerors with the presence of precious metals everywhere within the subjugated domain, that a s])rinkiin<; more or less, here or there, was little regarded. Nevertheless, it is reported that later they huilt furnaces, and brought sand from the seashore \o be used in smelting antimotiial silver lead. A nmp was made of southern California in 1775 by a priest sliowing the exph>rations of the Jesuits on the Ct)lora(lo river for several hundred miles, and thence to tlie Tulare valley. J. H. Carson is the author of a little book, printed in Stockton in 1852, I'utitled Karn/ J Urol lections of the Mines, and a Iksmp- '<nn of the (ircat Tidare Valley, awA worth fifty times % ii wei*dit hi ixold. This writer was informed that in tiie Mexican archives was a letter from a priest, dated at one of the Jesuit missions in 177G, notifying the govrnment that while searching the niountains for i mission sites he and his confreres had met with pure silver in masses weighing several tons, and that th(\y i had forbidden all mention of the matter under pain I of excommunication and death, lest a sudden influx of population should destroy their schemes for con- version. Upon the strength of this assertion Wright and his associates fitted out an expedition under a Mr Ho\ t, who proceeding to California from Mexico, in due ti-ne sent back a letter with rich specimens of silver ore, ilmost solid, as Mr Wright declared. NLitl er iJoyt or any of the party returned, nor were ihe}- ever lje.iiil from: and it was supposed that they were manl mm' iiy the natives. Exploruig at a nmch later period in the vicinity of Moore creek, Carson encountered a shaft sunk apparently twelve or twenty years before. Part of the windlass was still standing, though in a state of decay, and the ])lacc agreed with the description given by Hoyt. When Carson ques- tioned the natives about it, he was told that the shaft had 'i't^n sutik by Mexicans who had been in that •'.",' '» 1st. I'oc. 8 84 THIiEE CENTURIES OF WILD TALK. neiijjhborhood but who had since diod ; the gentle savages failed to mention the manner of their taking off. Referring to the Diccionario Gcoproficn-Histn'n'o dc las IiuUas OccideviaJcs o America of Antonio de Alcetlo, published in Madrid in 1786-9, we find stated that in California, " provincia de la America Septentrional, y la I'lltima parte de ella en lo descubierto jlcia el norte " are many wonders. Strange animals are there, and some that the Spaniards introduced, which have multi})lied enormously. There are insects, snakes, tarantulas, and ants without number, but no fleas, bed-bugs, or chegoes. A-^ prone to mendacity as I have ever found Air Dunbai. " is not prepared to meet in his Romance of the ■■ so bold a misreprese itation as that Alcerh) " positively asserts the existence of gold in California, even in lumps of five to eight pounds," and tliat in face of the plain statement : " No se han des- cubierto minas ; pcro hay bastantes indicios de que existen de todos metales." At Alizal, near Monterey, silver is said to have been found in 1 802. Remarking how deep benea theth surface lay the precious metals in the interior of north- ern Mexico Humboldt, after his visit in 1803, ex- pressed the opinion that toward the north gold might be found in large quantities near the su^ -tee. Knowledge of the existence of furnaces, used in tlie smelting of silver ore, in the southeastern part of California, or in the Colorado river region, is vaguely tracetl back to 1808. An exploring party from Stock- ton in 1800, in search of silver lodes, met in the vicinity of these furnaces a party of Mexicans with like intentions. With the Mexicans was an ancient aboriginal, Jose el Venadero he was called, one hun- dred years of age, who stated that these furnaces were in use when Mexico first threw off the yoke of Spain, fifty -two years ago. He was a mission Indian at the time, and the Spanish soldiers stationed at the furnaces to protect the workmen from the natives were with- I -* I 1))!' ii^l ht»aftii rtiTii 11 SUTTER AND THE RUSSIANS. S6 gentle taking iiorio de AlcccU), that in rional, y ivie " are [id sdnic ultiplied rantulas, -bugs, or er found b in his ation as »f gold in luls," and han dcs- 5 de que to have nea theth of north- 1803, ex- Id might used in li part of vaguely n Stock- t in the ans with ancient ne hun- ces were if Sp'lin, ni at 1/1 le farnaoes fere with- drawn during tlic revolution. A large body of natives, headed by liis brotlier who was a chief, then attacked and killed tlie miners, and the priests who were with t!i( lu : since which time the lode has not been worked, and the ])lace had been forgotten by all except those engaged in tlie massacre. M. S. Brock way saw there ill 18j1 veins of antimonial silver. Count Scala writing in the NoiiveUcs AnvaJes (ks Vniiaijcs, in 1854, asseits that althougli local tradition has not jneserved any souvenir of the excursions of tlie llussians into the auriferous re ijions wliich have since been !)f such value to California, yet there are unanswerable proofs that several officers of the Rus- sian comjiany have ai ditl'erent times, between the years 1812 and 1841, ])rocured a considerable quantity of metal from the native tribes of Yuba and Chico. "Nous montroros tout a I'heure," he goes on to say, " (juc c'est aux Kusses de Bodega que les Americains sont redcvables de 1' hcureuse decouverte qui leur donne aujourd' hui la faculte d'etendre leur souver- aincte dans la Nouvclle-Grenade et le Nicaragua, et d'imposer leur influence a toutcs les republiques es- ]>agnoles du Pa(iH(]ue." In })roof of his premise Scala's chain of argument is not in every link consis- tent with fact. I will give it for what it is worth. He does not know hov it occurred, or wliat might have been the nature of the senices which Sutter had rendered to the govermnent of Archangel, but certain it is that one day the cajitain arrived in Cali- fornia well n^conmiended to the authorities .it Ross and Bodega, M. Goriett", a rich merehant established at Yakoutsk, pretends to have shown him in 1838 or 183D a score of "kilos de lingots d'or et de pepites," which he had gathered live years before in the Sac- ramento valley, whileon an excursion with the rifxihros of the company. And Goriefl' counselled Sutter to devote himself exclusively to the investigation of these auriferous lands. However that might have been, Scala continues, "no one then in California was igno- i!| 99 THREE CENTURIES OF WILD TALK. rant of tlic existence of gold in tlio Sierra Nevada districts. The Creoles had often bouglit it from tlsc Indian hunters, and in tlie time of the Spaniards the missions had secretly procured it in large quantities. The only obstacles which for a century had hindered the workuig of these mines by white men were tlie well known ferocity of the wild Indians, and ignorance of the exact position of tlie placers. After having made several excursions in the country pointed out to him by M. Gorieff, Sutter went to tlie governor at Monterey and asked a grant of the lands. This grant, which comprised an area measuring eighty kilometres in length and sixteen in width, was traversed by the route from San Francisco to the American posts on the Columliia river. It was a virgin region, abounding in game, profusely watered, rich in pasturage, and surrounded bv mild-mannered tribes. Tliere Sutter establislied himself as trapper, hunter, and agriculturist. When in 1841 the Rus- sians evacuated Ross they sold to him tlieir material, l)y which means he became strong enough success- fully to withstand the provincial government. Thus was due to the Russians, the conclusion is, the gold dis(H>very in California, and her consequent greatness." Here ends C >unt Scala, whom I have translated accurately, if somewhat freely. It is possible, even probable, that the Russians of Ross and Bodega knew of the existence of gokl in the Sierra f»)t)thills. They had every o[)portunity for acquiring such knowledge, being in frequent conmiu- nication with tlie inhaliitants of that region; and there was no special inducement for them to notify the Mexicans of the fact. But as for Sutter being aware beforehand of the existence of gold in the vicinity of New Helvetia, I am sure tiiat he was not; first, because he told me so, and secondly, bc?- cause, if he had known it his line of conduct would have been different. Further than this, it is not true that tlie Indios bravos were so fierce as successfully if! 8CALA AND SUTTER. 37 Nevada rom tl'.c irds the lantitica, liindercil ;vcre the rnorauce r haviiuj; sd out to rcrnor at Is. This g eighty idth, ' was :o to the It was a watered, mannered s trapper, tlie Kus- niaterial, li success- lit. Thus the gold reatness. translated lussians of l)f gold iu iunitv for [t conunu- gion ; and to notify ttcr being lid ' in the it he was fondly, bc- ict would Is not true iccessfuUy to guard their gold from the Russians. Tliey woie not'^ fierce at all, hut ratlier as Sutter found them " aux nioeurs douces et fiiciles.' Hitliiiski tells of a laborer, a servant of tlie Rus- sian American Company in California, wlio one day Avtiit to tlie commandant with tlie story that he had scrn gold in the bed of a stream, and advised that a party" be sent to examine it. The man was told to miiui his own business. Add to the statement of Scala the testimony of (Toveriior Alvaradi), given in the first volume of his Jlisforia (k California, and it is almost certain that the Russians of Ross and Rodcga were aware of the ex- istence of gold in the valley of California as early as 1814. During the administration of Governor Ai- gUdlo, Alvarado says that gold was found in the jtossession of a Russian, El Loco Alexis he was called. The man was in jail at Monterey at the time, impris- oned with three others, pt'rhaps for drunk(Miness, or for killing beaver, or, more likely, for being Russians. Alexis would not tell how or where he obtained the gold, and as he was shortly afterward sent to Sitka, nothing came of it. Alvarado does not hesitate to assert further that "we well knew of the existenct* of gold di'posits on the slopes of the northern mountains, but the Indians, who were so much more numerous than we, prevented our exploring in that direction." Because Phillips, in his Minerahfpj, edition of 1818, spoke of gold in California, many thought he liad knowledge of the existence of that metal in the Sierra foothills. In the possession of the San Francisco Society of Pioneers is a" stone tablet, indicating the discovery of gold on Feather river in 1818. It was presented to the society by W. F. Stewart in 18G8, and is held in great estimation by the wise men of the dav. The stone is of hard, yellowish, sandy texture, about twelve inches in length by an average of three inches in width, THREE CENTURIES OP \^^LD TALK. M ,iii III and one incli thick. It is flat, and on one side are deeply cut, in legible letters, these words : 1818 GOLD CAVE IN TlIM M. .SHIP LODBM L M This cabalistic stone is said to have been picked up on the west branch of Feather river, in 1850, by William Thomas, and given by him to A. J. Pithan, of San Jose, in 1851. Mr Thomas, after dilig<>nt search, was unable to find the gold cave. Discussions of possibilities or probabilities are wholly useless. Tlie chances are a hundred to one, in my opinion, that some miner of 1849 cut the letters for pastime, and then threw the stone away, or gave it to some one to make a good story out of And now comes Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo with similar testimony, that the Spaniards in California kninv of gold, but could not profit by their knowledge on account of the Indians. In the first volume of his Illsforiade California he further states that, in 1824, wliilo Captain Pablo do la Portilla was encamped at San Emilio, Lieutenant Antonio del Valle, who had a stock of beads, blankets, and tobacco, traded his goods with the Chauchilas and Jozhnas for fourteen thousatid dollars in gold, "cliis[)as de oro," emphasiz- ing his statement by the further assertion that " el teniente del valle trajo el oro d Monterey, y lo he tenido en mis manos ; y por eso respondo de la verdad del hechc." Jose de Jesus Pico, still living in San Luis Obispo, asserts that Father Martinez, the minister of the mis- sion of that name, gave him and three fellow-soldiers, in 1821), twenty ounces of gold in one ounce balls, and that he believes the father must have picked it up at the place named San Jose, near the mission. He buspected that several Spaniards were for a time SOME PROPHECIES. side arc picked up 1850, by r. Pitlian, r dili*^eiit libcussions less. The [lion, that stiine, and me one to dlejo with California cnowledge unie of his , in 1824, anipc'd at who had traded his >r fourteen eniphasiz- that "el y lo he la verdad ) lis Obispo, f the mis- vv-soldiers, balls, antl ed it up at sion. He or a timt^ secretly engaged at the mission in refining gold and silver, because the father had many flasks of (juicksil- ver, as well as instruments and materials for refining those metals. Jedediah Smith is accredited with having found placer gold near Mono lake, on the way back from California, wliither he had led a party from the Salt Lake country in I 825. Thomas S})rague, writing to Edniond Iliindol}>h, in 18G0, states that he was well aware of the fact, and that the spot where the gold was fitund was on the route to Salt lake, and east by nortli from Mono lake. Quite a (juantity of this gold. Smith brouglit back with him to the American Fur Company's encamjunent on Green river. His j)artners Were so J (leased with his success that they induced liim to return to tlie gold field, in which attempt he lost Jiis life. The defeat of tlie party by Indians dis- couraged the company, and they abandoned their searcli f )r gold. Mr Sprague's statement as to tlie route of Smith to and from California is only i)artially correct. As furtlier evidence that gold was believed to exist ill California, may be mentioned certain laws and reg- ulations framed by the Mexican government. Refer- ring to the Vallejo ( 'olrcrio)) de Donnnoitos, we find that on "tlie IDthof July, 1828, President CJuadalupe Vic- toria transmitted to the governor of California a decree of the Mexican congress equally ai>plica])le to all tlie ^[exican states and territories. All prtivious decrees prohibiting the export of gold and silver bullion were revoki'd, and states were permitted to collect duties. Bars, (pioits, and rails nmst be numbered and stampcMl with weiglit and fineness. Another decree, of the 13th of Septemher, lays down the rules for the ex[»or- tation of gold and silver bullion. Permits might be obtained by jjresenting petition and invoices at the; custom-house. Then the formalities i)rescribed for the authorities of the custom-house are given at great length, besides a number of stipulations and penalties. '40 THREE CENTURIES OF WILD TALK. Upon the assertion of M. Duflot do Mofras mainly rests the discovery of gold at San Isidro, in S'U Diego county by a man from Guanajuato about 1828. " A San Isidro," he says in the first >olume of his Ex- j)hmitlon du Tcrritoire deV Oregon, dcs Californics, ct de la Mer Vcrmeille, Paris, 1844, "tl quatorze lieucs dans Test de San Diego, on trouve des mines d'or et d'ar- gent qui furent exploitees il y a quinze ans par un hommc de Guanajuato." Padre Viader, a priest at Mission Santa Clara, is said to have [)ossessed the gift of prophecy. Two years before it occurred, he foretold the drouglit of 1821), and advised the<people to prepare for it, and plant double the usual area. He likewise predicted the discovery of gold in California, and the transfer of that land to another nationality. This reminds one of the many signs and omens pointing to the fall of Monteruma, and the Mexican conquest, which oc- cured during the century preceding that event. Another prophet, who died hi 1830, was Padre Magln Catahi, of this same mission. Among other things he j)redicted that great riches would be found in the north, and that people would flock thither in great numbers. It is safe to affirm that among peo- ple of extraordinary piety no important event ever happens but that after the occurrence many persons can be found who said that it would be so. And now for the statement of a savage among others who testify. Puleule, a Yuba, swore, as soon as he had acquired that civilized accomplishment, that when he was a boy, say in 1830, he had often amused himself by picking from the gravel large pieces of gold and throwing them into the water. Manuel Victoria writing the Ministro de Rclaciones says in 1831 that there are no mines of any value in California ; that the pagans know of none ; and that it is the opinion of experts that there are no minerals in the country. The unreliable editor of Tlie Natural Wealth of Cali- '^ s mainly , in S.*n )ut 1828. )f his Ex- lies, et de sues dans r ct d'ar- s par uu Clara, is •y. Two ought of »r it, and predicted ! transfer , reminds o the ftill which oe- nt. as Padre )ng other be found hither in [long peo- ent ever V persons among as soon lent, that li amused bieces of lelaciones lvalue in land that I minerals of Cali- WARNER'S VHEORY 41 1 I'M fornia, states that the first gold was found in the Santa Clara valley in 18:};{, and that other deposits were discovered in various i)laces in the Sierra INladre, Blount, the pioneer, assured Bishop Kip in 18G4, that thirty years before, that is to say in 1884, he en- countered ore, wliich at the time ho thought to be copixr, but tlun knew to be gold. The bishop dis- plays extreme credulity even in repeating such a statement. About on a par with this is the assertion of Mr CJray, who wrote what he calls a TlisUm/ of Orcf/on, tiiat two jovial })riests. brought to the Oregon coasts by the Hudson's Bay Comi)any, discovered, when wandering among the Bocky Mountains, pare silver and gokk'n ores, specimens of which they car- rle<l to St Louis and Europe. What their jollity had to do with it the historian does not explain; nor does he give us proof that any assertkni of this kind Was made bv them prior to the discoverv of Marshall. (Governor Alvarado thinks it imj)ertinence on the part of Sutter and ]\[arshall to claim the honor of the ii'old discovorv ; for in the fourth volume of his His- i<iria <lc California he observes, "que el pueblo Amer- icano es esencialmente egoista cuando trata do hacer apare^er al sefior Marshall como primer descubridor dil oro en California; (|U0 en buena hora la legislatura de premios y pensiones ii (juienes so le Antoje, yo no me mezelo en esos asuntc^s, desde que mi voz seri'a (l(Mnasiado debil para efectuar reformas que la mayo- rir de los legisladores no desean ver implantadas; pero e\ijo que no se cina con laureles (jue de justicia perte- necen d mis compatriotas, la frente de Sutter, Mar- si lall y demas aventureros que a cada bienio se ])resentan ante la legislatura del Estado reclamaiM* > reconqtensas por servicios quo ban estado mi y lejos de prestar, y por descubrimientos que habian sido hechos mas de quince afios dntes que k)s titulados descubridores del oro Viniesen d California." My old friend Warner gives the most plausible ex- planation as to the origin of the many ungrounded \v > 9 « THREE CENTURIES OF WILD TALK. rumors concerning the early discovery of gold ' .ili- fornia. Several persons, he says, coming iv this country, brought with them bullion or dust, to be used as money, which passing into commerce, was handled by different persons and ship[)ed at various times to various places. Thus Palacios, arriving in 18IU as agent for a Guaymas merchant who had pre- viously shipped goods to California, and had purchased land and cattle, brought a considerable quantity of grain gold and silver bars, obtained in Sonora, where- with to facilitate his operations. About the same time J. P. Leese arrived from New Mexico, having in his possession placer gold to the value of several thousand dollars A large proportion of this treasure fell into the hands of the agents of Boston merchants, and was shipped to Boston, California thus acquiring the reputation in certain circles of a gold-producing country. Thus Mr Dana, referring to the cargo of the Alert, states, in his Tiro Years Before the MaM, that among other things was a quantity of cold-dust brought from the interior by Indians or vicans. And he learned further from the owners \ .j was not uncommon for homeward-bound vessels to have on board a small quantity of gold. Rumors of gold discoveries were then current, he adds, but they at- tracted little attention. In Mexico, by a law of March 24, 1835, was created the Estahlecimlento de Mineria, which body was to superintend the mines of California, in case there were any, as well as those of northern Mexico. Notwithstanding all these affirmations, oaths, and prophecies, Alexander Forbes, in 18.35, writes : "There are said to be many mines of gold and silver in the peninsula, but none arc now worked, unless, in- deed, we may except those of San Antonio, near La Paz, which still afford a trifling supply." And again: — " No minerals of particular importance have yet been found in Upper California, nor any ores of metals." And speaking of the coming of Hijar's UNRKLIABLE TESTIMOXY. 43 [1 ' ali- ; u tills ,st, to bo orce, was t various [•riving ill ) had pre- purchased lantity of 'a, where- same time ing in his thousand •e fell into lants, and acquiring producing 3 cargo of Maftt, that rMd-dust vicans. .J was 8 to have rs of gold b they at- as created y was to here were aths, and writes : ,nd silver mless, hi- near La nd again: have yet ores of Hijar's party, he says, "Tliere were goldsmith's proceeding to aVountry where no gold existed." While (HI a visit soutli in 1 874, I met at San Luis OhisiM), Mr Henry B. Blake, author of a historical ski'tch of southern California, who stated that the first gold shipited from Califoriiia was in IH86, and canu> from the source of the Santa Clara river. With regard to gold in Lower California, the Pf?*?^2/ Ci/rlopirdhi of 1830 says : — " The mineral riches arc very inconsi<leral)le. Only one mine is worked about ten or twelve miles nortliwest of La Paz, where gold is ex- tracted, but the metal is not abundant." The San Antonio mine is the one referred to. " It is sujiposed that the western declivity of tlie mountains contains a considerable (juantity of minerals, but if this be the case they will probably never V)e worked, as this part of the peninsula is (juite uninhabitable." And the country to the northward is not V' ry different in the (•pillion of this writer, who ccmtinues: "In minerals ITpper California is not rich. A small silver mine was found east of S. Ines, but it has b( en abandoned. In one of the rivers falling into the southern Tule Lake, some gold has been found, but as }et in very small quantity." CHAPTER III. FURTHER RUMORS OP THE EXISTENCE OF GOLD IN CALI- FORNIA PRIOR TO THE DISCOVERY BY MARSHALL. Is yellow dirt the passion of thy life ? Look but on Gripus or on Gripus' wife. — Pope. Nearer the mytlilc than any we have yet encoun- tered, in point of elaboration at least, is the story told in 1865 bj the Paris correspondent of the London Star. The writer claims to have discovered, in a pri- vate collection hi Paris, belonging to an antiquarian named M. le Carpentier, the first gold found in Cali- fornia. It was in this wise: During the revolution of 18.S0. and for years afterward, M. le Carpentier had felt somewhat nervous iest his collection should be seized by a mob or by burglars, for it wr.,s now very valuable. While in this frame of mind he was startled, late one night in 1837, by a loud knocking at the street door. After some delay he opened it with great precaution, and there stood a middle-aged n)an, emaciated, apparently in wretched health, and in tat- tered garments. "You do not know me," began the individual, speaking somewhat wildly, " but I know you, and tliat is enough. I want you to assist me in applying to government for a vessel and a hundred men, and I will bring back a ship-load of gold." The antiquary's face showed what he thought of the proposal. " Oh, I am not mad," the invalid continued. " See hercl You are wise. You know the value of this" — producing from his pocket a large piece of quartz, M. le Carpentier was richly impregnated with gold. S3ME STRANGE STORIES. 45 a kindhearted man but not avaricious, and he still tlif)ught his visitor a little insane. Leading him with- in, he set food before him, and then giving him for a ]Mcce of the quartz a napoleon, and telling him to call again whenever he pleased, dismissed him. The man never reappeared, but the rock, when anal- yzed, was found to be rich in gold. Fifteen years elapsed, and the incident was well-ni^h forgotten, when one day a small, heavy parcel, enclosed in a torn and greasy handkerchief, was handed with a letter to the antiquarian, by the keeper of a lodging house i:i a neighboring street, who said that they were left tliore by a man who had died, and that they liad been a long time mislaid. What was the antiquary's as- tonishment, on opening the letter, to find it from the poor invalid, and dated but a few days after his visit, while the heavy package was the block of quartz. " I am d}'ing," he wrote. " Ycu alone listened to me. You alone stretched out a helping hand. I be- queath you my secret. The country whence I brought this gold is called California I " It is stated that a Scotchman, Young Anderson by name, attempted, in 1837, io enlist English capital in mining ventures, through representations made to him by a Guatemalan priest who had lived in California, that gold existed in the neighborhood of San Francisco. The Scotchman was unsuccessful. In 1 8 5 1 , some three years after Marshall's discovery, it was related in the Worcester Transcript that one \V. F. Thompson, an experienced trapper, remembered having found gold while on the north Yuba, some twelve years before, a pound of which he carried with him to Fort Leavenworth. There he left it, no one seeming to know or to care what it was. When tidings of the g()ld excitement were noised abroad, he was engaged in trapping in the far north, and recognizing his mistake, at once hurried back to the spot, only to find every inch of the ground uprooted. There was quite a mania for mining in .A.lta Cali- 46 FURTHER RUMORS OF GOLD. fornia about the year 1840. Silver was then the attraction, rather than gold. Men, women, and children talked about their ores very much as in later years stocks were discussed. Copper was about that time discovered at Soledad pass, some ninety miles nortli of Los Angeles. The Quarterly Review of 1850 states that the English botanist, Douglas, was blamed for not having discov- ered gold on this coast after having travelled over so much of it, and that, too, when "the roots of some of the pines sent home to England were found to have small flakes of gold held together in the clotted earth still attached to them 1 '' Juan B. Alvarado says that the rings which he used at his wedding, in August 1839, were of California gold, and tliat his eldest daughter has still in her pos- session a golden ring fashioned in 1840 at Monterey from metal procured at San Fernando. In his manuscript dictation, CaVifomia 1841-8, John Bidwell remarks: "Among our party of 1841, the general opinion was that there was gold in the Rocky Mountains. Some trapper in the Black Hills had picked up a stone, and carried it with him for a whet- stone, and in the pocket in which he carried the stone he found a piece of gold. My comrade, James John, before mentioned, actually proposed to me, while we were crossing the plains, to remain behind tlie com- pany in the Rocky Mountains to hunt for gold and silver. It was almost a daily occurrence to see men picking up shining particles, and believing them to be something precious." When James D. Dana, of the United States' ex- ploring expedition entered California from Oregon, in 1841, — it is remarkable how many authors copy each other's errors, and write this date 1842, — he noticed that "the talcose and allied rocks of tlie Umpqua and Shasty districts resemble in many parts the gold- bearing rocks of other regions, but the gold, if any there be, remains to bo discovered." And on liis re- THE SAN FERNANDO MINES. 47 turn, when he published his book on geology, he made mention of gold-bearing rocks and quartz vehis both in Oregon and California. Hence the report became current, after the discovery of gold, that Dana had told of its existence in California seven years before, which was not the case, as he himself distinctly states. " It is very doubtful," justly observes Tuthill, in his Uktoni of California, "whether it occurred to Profes- sor Dana that there was gold to be found here in quantities that would ever get into more practical use than to lie as rare specimens behind plate doors in tlie mineralogical cabinets of the colleges." Murchi- son made similar remarks on the auriferous rocks of Australia, and so have twenty other persons spoken of twenty other places, which, however, is far from the actual discovery of gold. It is, moreover, a little singular that so shrewd a man, and so experienced a scientist as Dana, should not have seen the gold which with the sand and gravel he displaced during his journey along Feather river. James Anthony jTroude claims that by reason of his geological knowledge Sir Roderick Murchison was enabled to foretell the discovery of Australian gold. It is true that Murchison said that tliis metal might be found in Australia; a safe affirmation for one hiving no claim to geological divination, and considering the sizj and character of the country. At last we have a vcritabl(> gold discovery, and gold mines worked in Alta California, with greater or less success, for a period of six years prior to the dis- covery of Marshall. They were situated in the San Fernando vail jy, on the rancho of Ignacio del Valle, fourteen leagues from Los Angeles, and eight from the San Fernando mission, toward the Sierra Nevada. Tlie discovery, which occurred in March 1842, was in this wise : Two vaqueros were searching for stray cat- tle in the valley, and when tired, threw themselves uj on the ground to rest. One of them casually tak- ing some earth in his hand, noticed shining particles, -.*s In' w hi I 48 FUKTEER RUMORS OF GOLD. which he fancied were copper. He showed them to his companion, who said they looked hke gold, and then scraped up some earth, and rubbing it between his hands, found more of the metal. Both decided to take the dust to Los Angeles, and ask the opinion of some of their friends who had worked in the mines of New Mexico. It was not until some days later that they arrived there, and showed it to certain Sonorans who were then at the settlement. They declared that it was placer gold, and asked Francisco Lopez — for that was the name of the man who fi^und it — to take them at once to the locality. Soon afterward they set farth, with a number of their friends, for the San Fernando valley, guided by the two vaqueros. Another version of the discovery is, that in the early part of 1840 Don Andres Castillero, a Mexican mineralogist, picking up a pebble, called tepustete by Mexican placer miners, in the vicinity of the Las Virgenes rancho, remarked that wherever tliese stones were found gold must exist. Francisco Lopez, the discoverer, overheard the observation and remembere I it, when, some months later, while plucking wild onions, a similar pebble was found in tlie soil around the roots. He set to work examining the earth, and found a grain of gold. Juan Manuel Vaca, owner of the rancho on which was built the town of Vacaville, was the first to carry the news to Governor Alvarado at Monterey, presenting him with an ounce of gold con- tained in quills, from which was made a pair of ear- rings for his wife and a ring for his eldest daughter. In 1842, these mines were worked for a distance of ten leagues, and in 1844 for thirty leagues. The gold was of the best quality, and many representations wore made to the supreme government urging the necessity of thorough surveys, and of develophig the mineral resources of California. In the Coleccion de documentos relativos al departamento de Califomias, Manuel M. Caj-.tafiares writes, " this branch ought to be considered less worthy of attracting attention than MISLEADING STATEMENTS. 49 agriculture. It is nevertheless, of great importance, and I have the satisfaction of assuring you tliat it forms ii California one of the most valuable resources which that department contains." The bod whence the gold was obtained was of gravel, and the cuts into tlie banks, even as late as 1845, did not exceed thirty feet. Some of the more experienced miners, were able by merely looking at tlie ground, to tell whether or not it contained gold, and would scrape the surface with a scoop or spoon made of bullock's horn. The earth was then thrown into a basket, which was emptied on a platform made of stakes about three feet high, driven close together into the ground, with poles placed lengthwise and filled in with grass, the whole being covered with a cotton sheet. Then water from a distance of six feet was thrown over the nmd, and in an hour or two the diit would be washed away while the gold remained. As soon as this gold discovery was more generally known, many people tic?ked to the mines, and in May 1844, Ignacio del Valle wag appointed juez de policia, and Zorrilla, his substitute, to keep order, as well as to levy dues upon the sale of liquors, to portion out the land, and to impose taxes if necessary. It was his business likewise to collect fees for wood, pasture, and mineral privileges. About this time there were one hundred persons at work in the mines; but the numbers decreased as the rumiing water failed, which they continued to do until the miners were unable to obtain enough to drink. They were a steady and hardworking people, but with all their labor were unable to earn more than from one to two dollars a day. So scanty indeed were their earnings that no taxes or dues were levied for that year, Abel Stearns hi November 1842 sent to the Phila- delphia mint for assay, as specimens of this placer gold, eighteen and three quarter ounces mint weight, and twenty ounces by California weight, which in CajlInt. I'uc. 80 FURTHER RUMORS OF GOLD, iii H If 'If 1 rfl' Hi Mn August following was returned with the accompany- ing certificate. "Before melting 18 34-100 oz. ; after melting 18 1-100 oz.; fineness, 926-1,000; value $344.75; deduct expenses, sending to Philadelphia, and agency there, $4.02; net $340.73." By December 1843, two thousand ounces of gold had been taken from the San Fernando mines, the greater portion of which was shipped to the United States; and from that time little is heard of the place till in 1845 Bidwell visited it, and found o.ily thirty men at work whose gains did not exceed twenty-five cents a day. E. E, Pickett states that in 1842 he met men in the Rockv Mountahis who had been in California and who said that gold was there. " They were not the first to give such information since I had read the same when a boy." It is such statements as this that have so often deceived the public. Mr Pickett never read of gold in Alta California when a boy. " The first hide drogers and other traders who visited this coast, even as long ago as the last century, obtained small quantities of gold-dust washed from the earth in the southern part of the state." This assertion is likewise misleading if not absolutely untrue. I have elsewhere explained how small quantities of gold found their way to the coast. In the Emigrant's Guide to Oregon and California, by L. W. Hastings, printed at Cincinnati in 1845, ap- pears the following : — "The information which I was able to acquire does not afibrd me sufficient data upon which to predicate any very accurate conclusions in reference to the mineral resources of California; but sufficient investigations have been made to deter- mine that many portions of the mountainous regions abound with several kinds of minerals, such as gold, silver, iron, lead, and coal, but to what extent, the extreme newness and unexplored state of the country, utterly preclude all accurate determination. It is, however, reported in the city of Mexico, that some SANDELS, AKD THE KING'S ORPHAN. SI Mexicans have recently discovered a section of coun- try. in the extreme interior of California, which af- fords ample evidences of the existence of both gold and silver ore, in greater or less quantities, for thirty leagues in extent. Since this report is so very extra- ordinary, and since it originated as above stated, the safest course would be to believe but about half of it, and then, perhaps, we should believe too much. Doctor Sandcls, a very able mineralogist, who had for some time been employed in his profession by the government of Mexico, spent four or five months in mineralogical investigation in Upper California. It was from this gentleman that the above information was de- rived, hence it is entitled to imi)licit reliance." Sutter took a great interest in this scientist, and in his labors. Sandels was a Swede educated in London, as Bidwell says, though Thorpe affirms that he obtained his edu- cation in a government institution in his own country, and that he called himself one of the king's orphans; that is, in return for an education at the expense of tlie government he was to make investigations in foreign parts for the benefit of the institution, such being one of its regulations. Others say that he had lived in Mexico and was sent by the duke of Bedford to explore California. Bidwell thinks that he had been in Brazil, and was for some time associated with M. Bonpland. He is said to have been robbed in Mexico, of the proceeds of property sold in Brazil to the amount of $189,000, though how the king's orphan obtained such a sum no one attempts to explain. Sandcls spent several days at New Helvetia enjoying the hospitality of its proprietor, who took great delight in his society. Seeing him so much interested in minerals, and so unwearied in his researches thereabout, Sutter said to him one day, " Doctor, can you not find me a gold mine ? " Placing his hand upon the shoulder of his host, the doctor replied, " Captain Sutter, your best mine is in the soil. Leave to governments to provide 52 FURTHER RUMORS OP GOLD. the currency." This was in 1843. Bidwell further states that Sandels explored as far north as Chico creek. Mr Dickey was with him. They did not examine any mountains except the Buttes. On his return to the fort Sandels reported " indications of gold, but that unless the mountains on the sides were richer than those in the valleys, the mines would not pay to work." A man came from the southern part of California to Sutter Fort in the autumn of this same year, 1843, calling himself Juan Baptiste Ruelle. In an old quill, which looked as if it had been brought from New Mexico, were a few particles of gold, which he said he had found on the American river. This excited the suspicions of Bidwell, who was present, and these suspicions were increased when the man asked for two pack-horses laden with provisions, and an Indian boy to attend him. He wished to go in search of gold, he said, and he would be absent several days. There was a company of Canadian trappers in the vichiity about to start for Oregon. It was not known that Ruelle belonged to them, but it was feared that with so valuable an outfit he might forget to return. Hence his request was denied. E, Stevens, a practical gold-miner from Georgia, and the leader of Townsend's party in 1844, came to California with the avowed purpose of discoverin;;' gold. While crossing the Rocky Mountains, or shortly afterward, he thought that he recognized in- dications, and one night, when encamped at some point in Utah, washed out a small quantity of dirt and found the color. Nevertheless, this mining ex- pert and professed gold seeker crossed the Sierra, re- turned to its summit in the spring for the wagons of his party, and thence to camp, thus, without being aware of it, travelling several times over the very ground of which he was in seaich. In the Souther)! Quarterly, in 1845, some one made hap-hazard the fol- LARKIN'S STATEMENT. 88 lowing statement, referring to California: "In tlie lieart'of the country rich veins of gold ore exist." Both silver and gold were reported noi-th of San Francisco bay in 1845 : ''Mines of gold, silver, cop- ;per, lead, sulphur, and quicksilver," writes an cmi- 1 grant in 1846, "are being found in all directions." f And then he mentions as in operation two quicksilver niines, yielding thirty per cent of pure ore, one on the Inorth and the other on the south side of San Fran- jisco bay. " No less than seventy denouncements of nines have been made to the alcalde of San Josd 'itliin the last five months. . .The evidences now arc that there is a vast field for mining operations about to open here." Koporting to Commahder Montgomery May 2, [l84n, in answer to a request for information respect- ing mines in California, Thomas O. Larkin, United [States consul at Monterey, makes the following state- bnent: "At San Fernando, near San Pedr6, by I was] ling the sand in a plate, any person can obtain [from one to five dollars per day of gold that brings [seventeen dollars per ounce in Boston. The gold has [been gathered for two or three years, though but few have the patience to look for it. There is no doubt {in my mind but that gold, silver, copper, quicksilver, lead, sulphur, and coal mines are to be found all over Califi^rnia. But I am very certain that they will [under their present owners continue as they are. iTlie Indians have ahvavs said there were mines, btt w'ould not show their location, and the Californiant: [do not choose to look for them." Elsewhere in his report he mentions the copper mines of Juan Bandini, ninety miles south of San Diego ; coal on the rancho (>f Rafael Gonzalez, seventy miles south of Monterey, and at San Pablo; sulphur beds twenty-five miles [north of Monterey, and also near Sonoma; silver [mines about sixty miles north of Monterey; asphal- [tum in various places; quicksilver near San Josd and [Sonoma; silver and lead twenty miles from Monteiey; f 'I ill S4 FURTHER RUMORS OF GOLD. lead on the rancho of Captain Richardson ; black lead at various points, and slate on the Sacramento river. On the 4th of May, 1846, Larkin writes from Mon- terey to the secretary of state at Washington: "By the laws and customs of Mexico respecting mining, every person or company, foreign or native, can pro- sent themselves to the nearest authorities and denounce any unworked mine. The authorities will then, after the proper formalities, put the denouncer in possession of a certain part of it, or all ; which is, I believe ac- cording to its extent. The possessor must hereafter occupy and work his mine, or some other person may denounce against him. In all cases the government claims a certahi portion of the product. Up to the present time there are few or no persons in California witli sufficient energy and capital to carry on minint;, although a Mexican officer of the army, a padre, and a native of New York are, on a very small scale, ex- tracting quicksilver from the San Jose mine." Besides the statements having some pretentions to truth were many absurd stories ; such as that gold was discovered by the Mormons in fulfilment of a prophecy of Joseph Smith ; and again, that a Pawnee chief, to whom Sutter had given a rifle, and who dit d some three months later, appeared to Sutter in the spirit and told him where to find gold, begging hiui meanwhile to buy with it a rifle for every member of his tribe. In 1864 John Bidwell was told by Brig- ham Young that some of his men claimed to have found gold prior to the discovery of Marshall, but that it was doubtless a mistake. After a brief visit to California L. W. Sloat, in December, 1846, read a paper before the Lyceum of | Natural History in New York, in which he said: "I am confident that when it (California) becomes settled, as it soon will be by Americans, the mineral develop- ments will greatly exceed in richness and variety the most sanguine expectations " — which after all was no j very remarkable prophecy. BANDINI, PICKETT, EVANS. n ; black lead iimento rivtr. ,es from Mou- ngton: "By ?ting mining, tive, can pic- and denounce ill then, afttr rin possession I believe ac- lust hereafttr jr person may e government b. Up to the i in California ry on minin^^ a padre, and lall scale, ex- nine." pretentions to as that gold ilfilment of a ihat a Pawnoo and who diid Sutter in tlic bejxijing hiin ry member »it ;old by Brig- imed to ha\ o Marshall, ))ut W. Sloat, ill le Lyceum of he said: "I comes settled, ^ leral develop- id variety the ^ er all was nof 1 Juan Bandini imagined, in 1846, that the hills around San Diego were impregnated with metal ; in- deed a metal of some unknown description had already been discovered. Writing in his Historia de la Alia Culiforuia he says: "Empero, de lo que yo creo que son abundantes estas pequenas sierras es de metales, pues todas las piedras de la superficie aai lo indican, y aini se lia sacado para fundicion un metal cuya calidad no se lia conocido, atribuyendo esto d la escasez de honibres de conocimicntos mineralogicos." "During 1847," Picket says, " and particularly in the fall of tliat year, there was quite an excitement in San Francisco and San Jose on the subject of mineral discoveries. But this was mostly in reference to quicksilver and silver mines, which were reported to bo rich and numerous in the hills and mountains bounding botli sides of the valley of San Jose. To- ward winter this excitement subsided, all the silver mines having proved to be humbugs." One George M. Evans, of Oregon, aspires to the distinction of having been among tlie first to find gold in California; or at least lie attempts to throw Mar- sliall into the background. If wliat he claims for himself has no better basis of truth than what he claims for others, he may take the palm for unblush- ing impudence and mendacity. Meanwhile let him be satisfied with the notoriety to which he has already attained ; for its odor will not be improved by further agitation. So far as I am able to ascertain, it was he who started the story of Cabello, before mentioned, and most bungling work he made of it. Will Mr Evans tidl us to what lingo belong the words jtliurros, and- Jxrconladd en Historia cl California Alfa, antl lunv ho obtained information that the mission of San Jose was built on the bay of San Francisco in lG72,a hun- dred years before ever a Franciscan was on the giound ? I do notsay thatall which heaffirmsis false, for I have no mea.is of knowing. I only say that the statements which I know to be Calse cause me to distrust all his ^if i 86 FURTHER RUMORS OP GOLD. assertions. A Mexican named Salvador, he says, was sliot at Yerba Buena in the autumn of 1845. On Lis })orson was gold-dust to the value of a thousand dol- ars or more. He at first refused to tell where he obtained it ; but in his dying hour relented, and ix)int- ing "in the direction of the San Jose mountains," cried, "lejosl lejosl" Where the San Jose mountains are situated, or what mines were ever found beyond them, !Mr Evans does not relate. While with a party of Mormons, who, in the autumn of 1846, ascended the San Joaquin river, on " the sand point of the small island opposite to what is called the entrance to Stock- ton, then called Lindsey's lake," he picked up some yellow specks from the bank, and remembcrhig '."liat the Mexican, Salvador, had said, wrapped them in paper, took them to Yerba Buena, and testing them with acids found them to be gold. If this be true, why did not Mr Evans gather gold, or publish his discovery ? Because, as he claims, of " not having any idea of the gold being in such quan- tity as was afterward proved." But if it was not there in quantity sul'icient even to be worthy of men tion, where did Salvador obtain his bag of it? A'^a' , in Auijfust, 1847, in company with Reading and Per- kins, Evans writes, " we explored the mountains near San Diego, and near the river Gila, where we found gold more abundant than has since been found on the north fork of the American." If this was true it is singular that some one did not go there and gather it. Once more, on being informed by Henderson Cox that he and others were about to explore a route across the mountains for the approaching Mormon exodus, he told him of Salvador, and drew for him a chart of the country. Cox went his way, came upon Mormon island and the gold there, and invited Evans to join Inm. The latter reached that point on the 19th of January, 1848, and by the 8th of February had nineteen thousand dollars. On the next day % 3 EXTRAVAGANT INVENTIONS. m while lie ami others " were in the lower end of the nr.ll-riu'o, Marshall the overseer and his little girl {•line in, and the child picked u^) a pretty stc^nc, as she called it, and showed it to her father who pro- n )ancod it •4«)ld, He was so excited about it that he sai Idled his horse and that day rode to Sutter's fort to tell Captain Sutter, hut he clid not believe it worth n )tico, and for a while the idea died away. The Mormons wishintjj to keep their discoveries a secret from people not Mormons worked out the gold and said nothmjj; more . . . Marshall died either four days before he arrived home in the eastern states with a barrel of gold, or four days from the coast." Amongst the falsehoods so thickly scattered here, it is difficult to detect a i)article of truth. Marshall never went ea^t never had a barrel of gold; was not dead; the Mormoir, never worked out the gold ; never wished to keep their discovery secret from all who were not Mormons, nor did they first discover gold; Evans was not present when the first gold was found at the saw-mill ; the idea with Sutter never died away ; Cox and Beardsley were not the first to find Mormon Island ; Sutter did believe ^Marshall's statement backed by tne evidence worth his notice ; IMarshall's child did not pick up the gold ; Marshall had no child present ; and so on back to the beginnins.^. I must apologize for occupying so much space i?\ criticising a work so unworthy of notice as that of George M. Evans; but if this for myself be necessary, I should apolo- gize in a ten-fold degree for the many journalists, here and in the east, who published his Munchau- senisms as facts, and thus imposed on a credulous public. One of his statements Evans concludes with the oflensivo intimation that he would not ob- ject to a gift from the government in return for the inestimable benefit conferred by him on mankind. Several attempts have been made to rob Marshall of the honor of tlie discovery ; but so far from the exist- ence of extensive gold deposits being known prior to 58 FURTHER RUMORS OP GOLD. the building of the saw-mill, it was with difficulty men could be made to believe the fact even after it was ascertained beyond a doubt. I will inflict upon the reader but one more of these pure inventions whose sole merit is their extravagance. A stranger giving his name as Bennett entered Brown's hotel, San Francisco, in the summer of 1847. After inviting the landlord to drink, he asked him whether he knew of any one having a thousand dol- lars to invest in something which would yield enor- mous returns, and being thereupon introduced to one George McDougall, said that he wanted a thousand dt)]lars to invest in blankets for traffic with the In- dians, offering as security two imall bags contaii ing what he declared to be gold. The men of San Fran- cisco looked at the backwoodsman as if they thought him demented. Meanwhile McDougall's wrath was rising, and finally he broke out. " Do you think I am a fool ! " Bennett walked off, muttering " Yes, I think you are ; and j'ou will find it out one of these days." In the autumn of the following year he aijain visited San Francisco and showed Brown three hundred pounds of gold-dust, stathig tliat after his interview with McDouijall he v/ent to Monterey to obtain either the money or the l)lankct.s from Thomas O. Larkiii, " but as soon as he laid eyes on him he concluded not to ask." In 1847 three noted characters of the day, Moun- t;>iu Jim, Dutch Fred, and Three-fingered Ja(k sported silver buttons in Monterey, the metal wliere- for, they said, had been taken from the old Indian claim on the south branch, or Carmelo creek. Some soldiers traded government rations for the buttons, and the army paymaster finally had them assayed at Wasliinirton where they stood the test. It was com- mon cn(mgh in 1847 and 1848 to see silver in the hands of tlio nat' /es at the Carmelo ; but little was thought o^ '^ ftC the time, for during the war many mission flagons, censors, chalices, and candlesticks rh difficulty v^en after it ore of these travagance. 3tt entered iier of 1847. asked him ousand dol- yield enor- uced to one a thousand dth the In- i contaii ing f San Fran- ley thouglit wrath was > you think muttering it out one e followhig nd showed ust, stathig lie v/ent t(» he l)lankcts 10 laid eyt s 'A HrOHER AUTHORITY. 69 liad l»ccn melted down, the metal finding its way into trade. In liis message of 1848, President Polk stated that at the tune of the acquisition of California, the exis- toiice was known of precious metals to a considerable extent — referring of course to the developments in the soutliern part of the state. " Although rumors of the existence of gold in Cal- ifornia had occasionally been heard," said Dwinelle in an address before the society of Pioneers in 1866, "still they had never been verified or traced to any re- liable source; and they were regarded as we now regard the fal)ulous stories of the golden sands of Gold Lake, or tliose of Silver Planches which are said to ex- ist in the inaccessible deocrts of Arizona," Tinkham, in hia History of Sfockton, says that Weber was not surprised to hear of Marshall' > discovery, "as he knew tliat gold existed in the mountains of San Luis Obispo and Santa Biirbara, bo' ause he had re- reived dust in small (|uantities frjni the Mexicans at San .L)sd" — a reasonable deduction truljM The ri ader has probably observed how many there were wlio already knew of the existence of gold in California as soon as Marshall discovered it. Sutter never pretended to this, though he thought it strange that the natives had not brought him gold, for he was alwayj^ urgijig them to collect for him any curiosities that could be gathered in the mountains; in answer to which appeal were brouglit to liim plants, animals, birds, fruits, pipeclay, red ochre, and legends of vari- ous kinds, but never gold. " I was in possession of a fact," writes the Rev. W. Colton.alcade of Monterey, hi May 1841), "which leftno doubt of the existence of gold in the Sta'iislaus, more than a year prior to its discovery on the Anieri( an Fork." Reverend and dear sir, no one doubts that gold was there l)efore Marshall found it; it is tl c knowl'dge of itsexist(>nc(> that was not as yet revealed. **A wild Indian," Mr Colton continues, "had strag- # FURTHER RUMORS OF GOLD. i glcd Into Monterey with a specimen which ho had lianiniercd into a clasp for his bow. It fell into the hands of my secretary, W. R. Garner, whocomnmni- cated the secret to me. The Indian described the locality in which it was found with so much accuracy that Mr Garner, on his recent excursion to the mines, readily identified the spot. It is now known as Car- son's Diijifino-s. . .It was the full intention of Mr Gar- ner to trail this Indian at the first opportunity, and he was prevented from so doing only by the impera- tive duties of the office." Both Parsons and Barstow affirm that previous to his discovery, Marshall had often expressed his belief in the existence of gold in the mountains; and Mrs Weinier goes so far as to assert that the discovery was not accidental. It is indeed somewhat remarka- ble that the secret remained so long unrevealed. The ground had been traversed these many years by na- tives, by servants of the fur-companies and free trap- pers, by emigrants, by explorers, and by professional scientists who observed nothing, notwithstanding that the tell-tale blush was there upon the foothills plainly visible to those who could read it. And yet it is no matter for surprise. Do not even the most gifted in this latter-day dispensation, with all the brilliant 11 'lit revealed bv science, walk as men blind or dream- iiig, while on every side, wrapped in the invisible, or latent in the earth and air and sky, arc secrets as manifold, and as pregnant with meaning as any hith- erto divulged, awaiting but the eternal maich of mind ? If Dana and Sandels, or any of those whohavebeen heedlessly 'redited with the discovery, had really found gold as did Marshall, and had published it to the world as did the teamster, how different micrht have been the destiny of the Pacific coast nations. To England, or to France, either of which countries would have paid thrice over the paltry fifteen millions and the indemnity duo the United States, PECULIAK DESTINY. 61 [i he had [ into tlic coniDiuiii- ribcd the I accuracy the mines, n as Car- f Mr Gar- unitv, and 16 impera- )revious to 1 his belief ; and Mis discovery b reniarka- aled. The ears by na- M \ free trap- Drofessional mdinix th.at ills plainly et it is no nost «i;ifted le brilliant or dreani- Hvisible, or secrets as any hitli- maich of haveheen had really shed it to rent might st nations, countries Itry fifteen led States, 1^ '4. California i^ight then have belonged; or even Mexico herself might have awakened from her lethargy, and gathered from this new-born El Dorado sufficient gold wherewith to satisfy her creditors. In such a case how different wt)uld have been the appearance, for better or worse, of the hills and valleys of the golden state. Morever, without the gold of California to counter- balance that which England found in Australia, where would have been the commerce of the United States ? Whfc/ would have been our credit during the war for the union, when even with California gold, poured in- to New York at the rate of three or four millions a month, the federal promises to pay fell to one-third of tJK'ir face ? The vital sustenance of that war was Cal- ifornia gold and Nevada silver, without which foreign t)ccupation in the Pacific States was possible, and for- eign domhiation, with abolition of Monroe doctrines and the like, extremely probable. In conclusion, it is hardly necessary for me to state that there is as yet no sufficient evidence of any knowl- edge by white men of the existence of gold in the Sierra foothills, prior to the discovery at the Coloma saw mill on the '24th of January, 1848. Even were it not so; if, for instance, as in the case of America and the Northmen, the existence of the continent had been once known, and the knowledge lost or forgotten, to Colund)Us, none the less, would belong the honor of dis- covery. So with Marshall. There n'ay have been some who thought of gold, or talked of gold, or even handled gold before January 1848; but, none the less, to James Marshall belongs the honor of its discovery, if indeed, it can be called an honor. The difference in the merit of the two discoveries, not to mention their relative importance, as to which, of course, there can be no comparison, is that in the one case Columbus be- lieved in a new world and sought i;., while Marshall stumbled on his discovery by the merest accident. CHAPTER IV. AFFAIRS ABOUT THE COLOMA SAW-MILL DURING THE SPRING OF 1848. PhituH, I shan't go near that fellow, Jupiter. Jufi'ittr. How, my good I'lutas, not wlieii 1 hid you ? PUitm. No. He in.uilted nie, turned nie out of his house, and scattered me in all directions, — nie, the old friend of the family, all hut pitched i;.o out of doors, as if I burnt hid fingers. What! go 1)a('k to him, to he liirown to hi.4 iiarasites, and toadies, and htirlot.s? No; 8en<l me to those wlio valno the gift, who will make much of me, who honor me, and desire my company, and let all these fools keep house still with Poverty who prefer her to me. Let them get her to give them a spado and an old sheepskin, and go dig iVr their two-pence a-day, after squandering tliousands in gifts to their friends. Jupilvr, Timou will never hehave so to you again. \\ i| When at length civilization began to creep into the canons of the Sierra foothills, and the cry of gold was raised, how was answered tlie mill-race digger s sliout \ Tamely enougls at first. Few heeded it, or imagined that it amounted to any more than a thousand other great or small discoveries made since Spaniards began their explorations northward from Mexico. Gold was thinly distributed over wide areas, with richer depos- its at intervals, so that for one great discovery, tliere were a hundred which were hardlv wArth attention. When bags and bottles of it were displayed at Be- nicia, at Sonoma, at San Franci.sco, and Monterey, the sleepy towns began to rub their eyes, and awake to the fact that here was gold, bright yelU)W haul gold, and in such quantities as might wt 11 and quickly claim tlicir consideration. The quiet of pastoral Cali- fornia was disturbed; the pulses of the people quick- ened as with one accord they directed their eyes northward. Thence spread the news to Mexico, to Oregon, to the islands of the sea, to the eastern slioie of the continent, to South America, and to the conti- f hi MARSHALL, THE DISCOVERER. 63 THE SPRLVa e, and scattered but pitclied 11.0 m, to be tlirowii tliose wbo Viibio re inycDiiipany, irefer ber to me. I, and go dig lor to tbeir friends, '—LucUin. 3ep into the of g'okl was Tcr s sliout? or imagined sand other liards began Gold was her depos- very, tliere attention. yed at Be- Monterey, and awake ellow haul nd quiekly itoral Cali- iplo fjuick- their eves [Mexico, to tern shoie the oonti- r\cv.U of the so-called old world. White people lieard of it, and black people; coppery, red, and yellow peo- |)1j.^ — came rushing in from every quarter, all eager for some of the delectable dirt. Much has been written regarding the Coloma gold discovery. ^luch about it worth knowing remains unwritten. The choicest unpublished information to inv knowledge is that contained in the manuscript of Henry W. Bighr, Dianj of a Mormon in Calif omiia, who was on tlie ground at the time, with a remarkably elear head and ready pen. The statement given mo bv Mr Sutter at Litiz, and contained hi the manuscript entitled Pcrsomd liemlniftccu •>• of General John Av(/ns- tii.^ Suffer, is also exceedingly interesting and valuable. I will herewith present verbatim several of the more impor-tatit accounts of the discovery. Marshall was a queer genius. I speak with exact- ness, for he was both a genius and queer. I have in my possession an old daguerreotype which is unlike any other portrait that I have seen. Parson's Life of Marshall is the best book upon the subject extant. Naturally kind and humane, his mind dreamy while his faculties were in repose, but of cragged disposition and inclined to be a little fierce when roused, all along his later life he was made morose by what ho deemed injustice and neglect on the part of the people, and <»f the government. "The enterprising energy of which the orators and editors of California's early golden days boasted so much as belonging to Yankecdom," he writes bitterly in 1857, "was not national but in<li- vidual. Of tlie profits derived from the enterprise It stands thus, Yankeedom .$000,000,000; myself indi- vicUially $000,000,000. Ask the records of the coun- try for the reason why? They will answer, I need not. Were 1 an Englishman, and had made niy dis- covery on English soil, the case wouhl have been dirtbrcnt." Mr Hittell visited him at Coloma in his retirement, where he alone remained of all those early discoverers. **No photograph of him has ever been m AFFAIRS ABOUT THE COLOMA SAW-MILL. 1 .y ! Ill III obtained " he said. " I requested him to let me get a negative, from wliich I would have pictures taken and sold in San Francisco for his benefit, but he re- fused indignantly. The thought of the injustice that had been done him made him unhappy. He wanted no allusion made to the debt due by California to him. Others have been loaded with wealth and honor, and he has been left to struggle along in poverty and ob- scurity, he who discovered the gold that made Cali- fornia what it is." Poor Marshall ! Too simple and sensitive by half I Had he made the gold, and it had been stolen from him by an ungrateful republic, he would not have been in his own opinion more cruelly wronged than by this neglect to reward him for — what? Yet we can but feel kindly toward the man who, though mistaken in what constitutes greatness, and merit worthy of public reward, was nevertheless well-meaning, honest, and industrious. His name will forever be conspicuous in the annals of the country, ho\7socver accidentally it became so. Yet far more than in picking from the historic tail- race the first particle of the divine dirt found there, Marsliall had often played the hero. The world knows its impudent men, its brassy, bellowing fellows; but how few of its real noblemen I Many generous deeds are recorded of Marshall while in the war; an<l it was not an unmanly act, the saving his saw-mill, in the way he did, from a freshet which threatened it just before the discovery of gold. The dam was built of brush with the butts laid down stream. The rains coming on, the river rose, and fears were entertained that the works would all be swept away. Side by side with his men, Marshall worked day and night, and received therefor the praise of his partner, and the respect and admiration of his associates. Up to his waist in water, in constant peril of his life, for many hours he worked, and finally succeeded in anchoring the mill in safety. Marshall claimed to have been the cause of the dis- THE AUSTRALIAN fJOLD-FIXDEB Vk coverv of ookl in Australia as well as in California. The story'^goes tliat an Englisliuian, named Har- giaves, came one day to the Coloma mill for lumber. He seemed specially in a bad humor, for he was curs- ing California, and the people, and lauding to 'eaven h "viTV tiling, Haustralian and Henglish. Marshall let him go on for a while without saying a word. Finally he broke out: "Sec here, my friend I" if you don't like this coun- try, why do you come here ? Nobody Invites you. Nobody will cry if you take yourself off. Go home and dig gold. I warrant you I could find the stuff in Australia." The speaker, beginning sharply, had gradually, almost unconsciously dropped Into a medi- tative strain. Tlie man took it .up in earnest. Marshall was a great character thereabout; he had found gold in California, and surely he must know if it was in Aus- tralia. "Do you really thhik so?" asked Hargraves. "I am sure of it," said Marshall. " If I thought so I would go." And he went. And for the millions of pounds sterling turned by this moans into the British treasury, he received from the British government £5,000, and from the Australian government £10,000, while ]\Iarshall from his un- grateful country received nothing. Everybody was busy and cheerful at the Coloma mill on the afternoon of the 24th of January 1848, for the heavy rains which had threatened to destroy the dam during the first half of the month had ceased, and tlie danger was past. There were several of the I^attalion boys here at work in various ways. They had come hither, last from the half-completed flour- ing-mill at Brighton; and such had been their suffer- ings during their terrible marrh from Council Bluff and Santa Fe, as to make the double pine-log-and- clapboarded cabin seem exceedingly comfortable, and Cal. Ikt. Poc. UM.. M Ml AFFAIRS ABOFr THE COLOMA SAW-MILL. the grizzly bears, and wolves, and wild Indians moro companionable than civilized man with his detestable prejudices and tyrannies. Present assistintjf on the works were eight good Indians from New Helvetia, and because they would not speak when spoken to, the valley people did not like their brethren of tlu- mountains, but called them mala gcittc, and wanted to kill them. Weimer and his aboriginal mechanics were indus- triously employed in the lower part of the race, which by this time was nearly deep enough at that end. Up near the place where the mill-wheel was to be Biujler was drlllincr into an obstinate boulder. Ben- nett and Scott were working at the bench; Stephens and Barger were hewing timber; Smith and John- son were felling trees. Near the men's cabin, and close by where Bigler was blasting, Brown was whijt- sawim? with an Indian. This heathen was ijrcatlv interested in affairs, and worked with a will ; for ho had been toLl that this machine when finished would saw out boards .)f its own volition; whereat he had responded that it was a lie. It was as good as a play to see this fellow when the mill was first started run- ning. He was " completely beaten," Bigler says. " He lay on his belly, where he could have a fair view from the bank, but near the saw ; and he lay there for two hours watching it. He was taken with it, and said it was vano — Indian Spanish for bueno — and wanted to be a sawyer right awfiv." Brown and Blijjler were anmsing themselves, whilf at their work, by quizzing the doul)ting aboriginal in the saw-pit respecting supernatural agency in tlic handling of saw-logs, when they were approached l>y a young Indian who requested them to get him a tin plate, at once, for Mr Marshall, who was at the lowi r end of the race with Weimer. Brown jumped oti from the log, and brought from the cabin the plate, wonderins: meanwhile what Marshall could want with the thing. When about to quit work for the night, a-: i Jj. DISCOVERY OP GOLD. dians moro detestable intT on tlu' V Helvetia, spoken to, hrcn oi tlio d wanted ti) were indus- racc, wliich it that end. 1 was to be ilder. Ben- \\; Stephens h and .Tohn- s cabm, aiul vu was whlp- t was greatly L will ; for ho inishcd would ereat he had ;ood as a play ■ started ruu- Bigler says. ,ve a fair view- he lay there iken with it, for bueno— Inselves, while aboriginal in ^3ncy in the .pproached by get him a tin s at the loW( r n jumped «'♦! bin the plate, uld want with for the night, I Marshall came up and said, " Boys, I believe I have found a gold mine." The remark produced no start- ling elfect upon his hearers, and Marshall walked off to his house on the mountain-side which he had lately built for himself. Later Marshall visited the men's eahin, and again remarked that he. was almost sure h(! had found gold at the lower end of the race. Then lu' said, "Brown, I want you and Bigler to shut down the head-gate early in the morning. Throw in a little saw -dust, rotten leaves, and dirt; make all tight, and we will see what will come of it." The men do as they had been told. And while they are at breakfiist Marshall goes down to the mill- race alone. After breakfast the men come out, and each betakes himself to his work. Presently ^lar- sliall appears, his old white hat within his arm, look- ing wonderfully pleased. A smile overspreads his fac(% and the boys know that it means something unusual. Coming nearer, slowly, quietly, yet in heavy depth of tone he sjjeaks : " Boys, by Gt»d, I've got it;" and he places his .hat down on a bench in the mill-yard. All gather round to see what it is ; .^nd there, sure enough, on the top of the crown, knocked in a little, lies the worshipful metal. There is about half an ounce of it, in flakes and grains, from the smallest particle to pieces as large as a kernel of wheat or larger, and though not one of the }>arty has ever before seen gold in its native state, there is no longer a skeptic among them. Azariah Smith draws from his p.»cket a five-dollar piece, i)art of his mili- tary pay, and compares it with the dust. There seems to be little dift'ercnce in color or weight; tlie cohi is somewhat lighter in tint, which is accounted for by reason v T its alloy. Not a very crucial test, but all sufficient at this juncture. Led by Marshall, all now hasten down tlie race, and soon are absorbed in picking from the seams and crevices the precious metal. They conclude that the deposit is rich ; and from this time the fever 68 AFFAIRS ABOUT HIE COLOMA SAWMILL. I :iil!!!'' sets in. Furtlicr tests aro applied, for tromblinj; doubts will arise, atui soiiu' is thrown into vincgni, and sonic is boiled in Mrs Woiinor's soap kettle. En- joinin«]f secrecy Marshall takes some of the gol 1 and goes with it to the fort to have it further tested. And when he returns thus he delivers himself: "Oh boys 1 it's the pure stuff." Then he goes on to relate his adventure: "I and the Old Cap*' for so he calls Sutter, " went into a room and locked ourselves up. And we were half a day trying it. And the regulars tiiere wondered what the devil was up. They thougl t perhaps I had found quicksilver, as the woman did down toward Monterey. Well ! we compared it with the Encyclopedia, and it agreed with it ; we ap[)lit(l a^jua foilis but it would have nothing to do with it. Then we weighed it in water; we took scales with silver coin in one side balanced by the dust in the other, and gently let them down into a basin of water: and the gold went down and the silver up." And he motions the manner of it with his hands. ** That told the story what it was," he concludes. Marshall reported further that Sutter would soon be there, and examine into the matter for himself. Sure enough, next day Marshall entered the men's cabin and said, " Boys, the Old Cap has come ; he is up at my house. Now I will tell you what we will do. You know, he always carries his bottle. Let us each throw in and give Henry some gold, and in tlu; morning, when you shut down the head-gate, let him take it down and sprinkle it over the base rock ; and when the Old Gent comes down, and sees it lying there, he will be so excited that he will out with his bottle and treat all hands." It was agreed ; the salting was done ; and while the men were at breakfast next morn- ing they saw Sutter, with Marshall and Weimer on either side of him, coming down to the mill. Suttt r was dressed with care as bocame the owner of squaio leagues, and the commander of a fortress, and lie walked with a cane. The men stepped out into the SUTTER'S VISIT. tromblin<j; o viiK'gai. >ttle. Eii- j gol i and lier testod. iisclf: "Oil m to relate so he calls irHelvca u^i. ;lic regulai s jey thougl t woman did ared it with we applied do with it. scales with dust \n the sin of water ; • up." And hds. "That would soon for hiniseit'. d the men's come; he is hat we will ;tle. Let us I, and in tlu; rate, let him [e rock; and lying there, Ih his bottle salting was It next morn- Weinier on iiill. Suttir er of square •ess, and h*' »ut into the 1 mill-yard, and heartily and respectfully greeted their cMiplover, who invited them to join the party in a walk 'down the race. While on the way one of Wrinier's little hoys ran on in advance of tliem, and seeing the shining substance so temi)tingly displayed, the i)est picked upnearly every particle of it, and came runnin<4 hack ahnostoutof breath, andcryhig, "Father I Fatlieri See what I have found 1" Marshall and his men each to heaven breatlud a silent curse on that iiini)eeiit head for having spoiled their fun Sutter, .seeing it, struck his cane into the ground and ex- rlaimed, "By Jo! its rich." The boy lad left un- litled the seams, and crevices, and gravel deposits, and the men after all had an exciting time of it gold- j)icking, Sutter among the rest. Tliere is little wonder the statements are conflicting when no one saw it all, and each was able to describe correctly only those parts of which ho was an eye wit- ni'ss. And after innumerable repetitions and disput- ings, confusion arose. Some even denied that Marshall was the first discoverer at Coloma, but this assertion is not worthv "'f <'onsideration. Then tlu'n was a controversy over the fii-st piece found, and what be- came of it, more senseless than the rest. Sutter, at Litiz, showed me a ring upon which was engraved on the outside iiis coat of arms, and on the inside. "The fir.st gold discovered in January 1848." And yet it was not, speaking with exactness, the first gold dis- covered; for Sutter says in his statement that some of it he picked up himself, and some was given him by tlie men then i)resent. The ring weighed an ounce and a half. Then Mrs Weimer claimed to liave had in her possession for many years the very fiist piece picked U]), and which Marshall gave her. This cannot be true, as according to ^larshall's testi- mony the first piece weighed fifty cents, whereas Mrs Weimer's piece was equal to five dollars ami twelve cents. It is safe to conclude that the destiny of this first jiiece is lost to history. 70 AFFAIllS ABOUT THK COLO.MA SAW-MILL. Tlic foUowiii}* oopios «»f HtateiiUMits may bo rclii'd upon as correct, word for word with the rcsjKictivc orifjjiimls. And as first in importance I ^ivo tlio ac- count delivered me from his own hps by General Sutter. Oiu' liiiny afternoon in January 1848, MiirHliall, Irijiiiin^; with M.vtcr, i':i- tcnMJ my olficu, next the giianl lionsc, in a liurritMl excitt'il manner, aiiil a k"<l to SCO mu ulonu in tiiu )ii){ lulU^tu, wliirli was my privatu otliee, ami the clerk*' olHue.i. I was Kurprisutl, iHJcau.so the tlay lieforc 1 hentup all tliat he wantcil, mill-iron and evurytliing. I eouM not iuiauinu what ho wanted, yet I < ■ ducted him to my private room.s, parlor anci hedriKini, ami wc entered a:id Hliut tilt! door. In this parlor I had very ancient funiituru made liy tiie ilii - Hiaiii at Fort Ross, tliu first manufactured in Califoniia, iKiIng of laurel, a:id very clumsy. Yet it wa.s hotter than the chairs ia many ricii uumih home u.f that jHsriod. Often have I jfono into the house of a well-to-do owner of larj,i) herds of cattle, and have lu^en otl'ered a hulloek'n head to Hit on, as a cha i-. Marshall a.sketl mo if the door was locked. 1 «aid, 'no, hut I will lock iu' H(! wa-i a singular man, and I tiM>k this to ho some freak of his. I was nut iu the least afraid of him. I had no weajMin. There was no gun iu tlic room. I only supposed, at ho was queer, that ho ttMik thi.t tpUM-r way to tell mo some secret. lie tirst said to me, 'Are wo alono?' I replied, 'Yos.' 'I want two howls of water,' said ho. I rang the hell for a servant. I had six ditferciit signals for six dill'erent clerks and servants. The howls of water wen- hraiight. 'Now I want a stick of redwood,' said Marshall, 'and some twiiu' and some sheet coiii)er.' ' What do you want of all these things, Marshall ': ' said L 'I want to make some scales,' he replied. 'Hut I have scalit enough in the apothecary's shop,' saiil I. I had all the time a, doctor, when I coidd get one, and a hospittil, and treated people without charge. 'I tl.il not think of that,' said Mamhall. I went myself and got some scales. Moauvhilo the d(.;ir had hecomo uidocked again, and so remained, although it was oii the side of the room adjoining, my rooms l>eing douhle. It was not my otlico, hut my private rooms. When I returned with the scales, I shut the door, hut did not lock it again. Then Marshall pulled out of his pantaloons' pocket a white cottmi rag, widch contained something rolled iip in it. Just as he was unfolding it to show mu the contents, the door was oj)ened hy a clerk nassiug througii, who did i.'ot know that wo were in the room, ''ihere,' exclaimed Marshall, (piickly thrusting the cotton doth again in his pocket, 'did not I tell you wi: had listeners?' I appea ed him, onlered the clerk to retire, and locked the door. Tlion lie hrou;rht out his mysterious secret again. Oi)ening the doth ho hehl it hefiTC mo ni his hand. It contained what might have been ahr>\:t an ounce and a half of gold-dust, flaky and in grains, the hirge*t]>iecenot (pii.i' so large as a pea. and from tiiat down to Ton tlian a pin-head in si/c. 'I hjliove this is gold,' said Marshall, 'hut tiie people at the mill laughed at me, and called ino crazy.' I carefully examined it, and saitl to him, 'Well, it looks so; wo will try it.' Then I wont to the apothecary's shop, ami g'lt af(ua fortis and applied it. The stuff stood the test. Marshall asked me il 1 had any silver. I sivid, •yc?,' ancl produced a few dollars. Then we ]'iit an e(}ual quantity in weight of goM in one side and silver in the other, ar.l dropping the two in the howls of water, the g^ild went down and outweigln '1 tlie silver imder water. Then I Imuight out a volume of the old American encyclopedia, a copy of which I happened to have, to see what other tets there were. Then I .said to him, 'I he^ievc this is the finest kind of gold.' Then he said he wished I would accomi»any him immediately to theniill. It was about su])i)er-time, and raining l<ard. I said, 'You had better take supper uow; I will go up early iu the niorniug, as soon as I have given my SUriKK S STAT KM KM'. with water, i'!i- Liiiuir, ami a k-.l !, anil the t'liii'l;*' that hu M iiittcd, lilted, yi't I <'<iii- wo eiitereil umiI lailo hy tho Uu • iig of laurel, a:iil I iiu'n'rt home ii.f II owner "f larj,.? it im, as a ehai-. lit I will hick il." his. I was lint s no gun in tlu- jueer way to trll I.' 'I want two hail Hix tlitfiToiit s of water wen- 'and 8iiiiie twine liiig-t, Marshall'.'' i\t I have sealiM a doctor, whrii 1 large. 'Id. I line Hcalex. lined, althoii),'lt nlilo. It wa-* did not lock it a white cotton as unfolding' >t lassing through, aimed Marsiiall. (it I tell you «c and looked tlin Idling the clcth lave been aliout itjiieeenot (jui.i' lead in size. ' 1 mill lauglieil at to him, 'Will, 's shop, and ^i^t hnll asked iiif il Then we juit the other, ar.l and outweighi'l le old American hat other tc ts kind of gold. ' tely to the mill. hail better taUu have given my I 1 arraniji'd tlie nffairn of the day.' Mar thall would not Mait ted and rodii otf in the rain. Tlio men orders nnl fur HU|)|iiT or aiiytliiug che, Imt iiioun >|iirii'H sLTajii tr. At I < wiTti Ncry giMid to keep the rain < and iliiniig "the nigiit, the ciir>o of t!io tiling hiir<t uiion my iiow the I'liil would he, and the next day I .;i\v tnim thel icginniiig liid a nioliiichcly rido of it t«i the «aw-niili. Of couimc J knew nothing of till! "Xtiiit of the discovcrv, hut I was N.iti.stied, wiictiier it ainounted to null h or l.til'-, tha' it woiihi greatly iuterfci,. with my jilans. .Vttriid.d ly my «<ri,'i'.iiit ami one of my soldii'iM ImMi Iiiiliann— I net out iii'xt iiioriiiiig for the ill. II. When almnt iialf way tliere I ducoyered oh|i'i-t iiioyiii'.; iiiMiU t ill the liiislie.^n.ar tiie road. Tuniiiig to my attendant I aiki'd, 'Wh.iL H that?' Ili^ rciilcd, 'It in tlio xaiiie man who wa^ wit'i yiiu hut iiiulit.' liiiiim.' u|i, I found, sure enough, it wan Marshall. It wan t'li'ii rainiin,' hard. II ivc y III liccii here all n gilt? I a ked. hi idied, ' I >iM;nt tlie iiinht at tlie null, .-iiiil came hack thii-i f.ir to meet ym Dm toll 11, Marsiiall wa;* wtill yery re ales.: II. dh iriiiii our rill liidicycd the wiiule coiinliy iniind \va.srich with g.dd. When we arriyed lie >viiit with liie to tlie iiidl race. I'luple were at work widening and dec|icii. ill',' the race. Tlicii l.c tnlil thciii to ijiiit work and let tho water through. Alter it had mil a wh 1 ■ he urdcrcd it .stopiii'd again. Mcaiiwhde the water liad wadied the graycl and dirt away, and then wo went in linnting for t'.;e littlo pieciM siicii a I .Marshall had hroiight down. I jiickcd Home np, and t'lcii e.'icii of tlie Mormon.* gave mc soiiii', and .Marshall gave me Home, too, 'Tiu'ii I said, 'This all must ho made into a liii'.;cr-riiig, an hooii as wo can get, a goldiiiiith,' and later this was done, and 1 liave this ring now. Here It is. It wcl^lMal mil tail ounce and, i half, and lu'ar.4 the inscription, 'The first tilth] dis •iiyeriid, in .laiiiiary |.S?.S. ' 1 h.id my coat of arms engrayed on it. I told the people there that it was gold, that there was no mistake, and t!iit I only aiked that it< discovery Mhoujd he ki'pt a secret for nix weeks iiutd I got my lloiir-iiidl ready, ami they all were very willing to do ho. IV.it this was not to he. 'I he men could not get along without ]iroyisioiis, .iiid I sent Hoiiie up hy a ,Swi.;s teaimtcr. 1 .should have sent my IndiaiM. Mn Weiiner had .-ome hoys, who s.'iid to tie! teamster, 'We have g 't some gill 1.' Tlie man l,i:!glicd at tlicin, when the mother e.'iclaiiiied, 'Well, you necil net laugh. It is true we li.-ive found gold. Look here, what do yiiu call tl'vt? ' Tliii >yoniaii little knew the conseipieiiees to mo of this thought- less wagging of her tongue. '1 he tiMMHter .•'ecu re 1 sonic of this gold and rotunied to the fort. At that time Sain Hraniiaii and (Jeorge .Smith, a relative of the great Mormon prophet, now higli in tiie Utah church, kept a store in one of my outhouses invir the fort. This was the tir.<t store, except my own, started in the valley. There were then a good many settlers in the valley, and they hrought to this Miirinon store hides talliw, and skins, and took away manufactured articles. McKinstry, who ^vas willi me then, called it a shirt-tail stort!, for every time I wanted a few things for my Indians, the iiroprictors I'Xidaimed, 'O, you Mill lireak t!ie a4<ortiiient ! ' Xcvertheloss, this store assumed great iiiipor- taiici ai soon ai gold «as discovered. Wii:iien and wiii.key helped the thiiij' along. It was a fundamental iind uiriUerahle law of the shirt-tail ston- tli.it credit should not he given f,ir whiskey. This was altogetlier too valnahle a commodity to he trusted out. The .Swiss teamster wa< universally tliir<ty. \U- wanted now a hottle of lirandy. At the counter where he had heeii .so often refused, he iiresented hi nielf, called for his poison, and at the saiiio time proudly came down with the dust. ' Wli.-t is that? You know very well licpior means money,' exclainiod linither Smith. 'That is money,' replied the teamster. ' It is fohl.' ' Yes, yes, that will do, ' said Smith. ' I have no time for your pleasant- tries.' 'Go to the fort and ask the captain If you don't helievo me.' 72 AFFAIRS ABOUT THE COLOMA SAW-MILT. ■iSvii ■'IJ Smith came in hot haste, and said, ' Your man came to mc and said that this is gohl. Of co'irae I knew he lied, and told him so.' ' Nevertheless it is goUl,' said I, and so the secret was oat. Next I will give the account by George Frederick Parsons, which may be regarded as the best of Mar- shall's versions: On the morning of that memorable day Marshall went out as usual to sujierintfmd the men, and after closing the fore-hay gate, and thus sliuttiiiK on the water, walked down the tail-race, to sec what sand and gravel h.-iil \)een removed during the night. This had 1 tee u customary with him for some time, for he had previously entertained tiie idea that there might he minerals in the mountains, and had expressed it to Sutter, who, Iiowevcr, only lauglicd at him. On this cccasion, having 8trolle<l to the lower cud of tl:i! race, he stood for a moment examining the mass of deliris tliat lia<l heen washed down ; and at this juncture his eye caught the glitter of something that lay, lodged in a crevice, on a riffle of soft granite, some six incile^< under the water. His first act was to stoop and pick up tlie suhstancc. It was heavy, of a peculiar color, and unlike anything he had seen in the stream Iwifore. For a few minutes he stood with it in his hand, retlet'ting, and en- deavoring to recall all that he had licard or read concerning the viiridiis minerals. After a close examination, he became satistii^l tliat what he Iielil in his hand must bo one of three sulwtances — mica, sulpliurets of coj)per, or gold. The weight a.ssured him that it was not mica. Could it be siilpliunt of copper? He remembered that that mineral is brittle, and tliat gobl is malleable, and as this thought passed through his mind, he turned about. placed the specimen upon a flat stone, and proceeded to test it by .striking it with another. The substance did not crack or flake ofl"; it simply bent un- der the blows. Ihis, then, was gold, and iu this manner was the flrst gold found in California. If we were writing a sensation tale, instead of a sobre history, we might proceed to relate how Marshall sank, pale and breathless upon a neiglibnr- ing rock, and how, as he eyed the glittering metul in his hand, a vision roM' before him of the mighty results of his discovery. But in fact nothing nt the kind occurred. Ihe discoverer was not one of thespasmodic and excita- ble kind, but a jdain, shrewd, practical fellow, wiio realized tlic importance of the discovery — though doubtless not to its full extent, since no one d.d that then — and proceeded with his work as usual, after showing the imggi t to his men, and indulging in a few conjectures concerning the proi)ablo ex tent of the gold flelds. Asa matter of course he watclied closely from time to time, for further developmento, and in the cour.e of a few dtiys had collected several ounces of the precious metal. Although, however, he was satistieil in his own mintl that it was gold, there were some who were .skeptical, ami as he had no means of testing it chemically, he determined to take some down to his partner at the fort, and have the (juestion Hn.ally decided. Some four days after tiie discovery it became necessary for him to go below, for Nutter had failed to send a supply of provisions to the mill, and the men were on short commons. iSo mounting liis horse, ancl taking some tliree ounces of gold dust with him, he started. Having always an eye to business, he availed himself of this opportunity to examine the river for a site for a lum- ber yard, whence the tnnber cut at the mill could be fli>atcd down; and wliile exploring for this purpose he discovered gold in a ravine iu the foot- lulls and also at tlio place known afterwards as Mormon island. That niglit he slept under an oak tree, some eight or ten miles east of the fort. where he arrived about nine o'clock the next mornmg. Dismounting from his horse, he entered .Sutter's private office, and proceeded to en(|uire into the cau<e of the delay in sending up tiie jirovisious, Ihis matter having been explained, and the teams being in a fair way to load, he asked for a fe«' Uiiuutcs' private conversation with Colonel Sutter, and the two entered a Ljli. c and said that Frederick ;st of Mar- out aa usual to il thus shutting anil gnavel liail th him for some cht be minerih liowever, only >wer end of tlie I tliat liatl heon erof soniethiiij; lix inches under stance. It wiis 1 in the stream lecting, and eii- ing the various at M-hat he held ts of copiier, or 1 it he sulpliunt nd tliat g(dd is J turned aliout. it hy striking it simply l)ent un- %a the first gold tory, wo might ion a neighlicir- d, a vision ro>c fact nothing ot |odie and excita- tlie importuucf nee no one d.d inc the nugg< t riujahle extent y from time to s had eoUected e was satisiied fikeptical, and akc some dowii 1. Some four low, for [Sutter e men were on hree ounces ot ) husiness, he site for a luni- eil down; and no in the foot- island. That st of the fort. lounting from Imiuire into tlie r liaving heen lieil fi>r a few two entered a I MARSHALL AND BROOKS. W little room at the hack of the store, reserved ab a private office. Tlien Marshall showed iiim the gohl. He loolied at it m astonishment, and, stdl douhimg, asked wiiat it wa.s. His visitor replied tliat it was gold. * I'npos- sihlo' was tliu incredulous ejaculation of Sutter. Upon this Mar.diall aske.i for some nitric acid, to test it, and a vaquero having Iweii despatched to the gunsiiiitli's for that i)uri)ose, .Sutter encpiired whether tliere was no otlier way in wliieh it could Ikj tested. He was told t!:at its character might he aseertaine.l hy weighing it, and accordingly some silver coin— .fS.p'), waiall the fort coidd furnish— and a pair of sinaU scalen or balances haviiiff lieen ohtoined, Marshall iirocee.lcd to weigh tho dust, first in the a:r, aiid t'leu in two b..wl« of water. Tlie experiment resulted as he had fore een. T'le (In <t went down; the coin rose r;rlitl3' up. Mutter gazed, and hn doubts faded and a sul>se(|uent test with the nitric acid, which by {\m t;me had ar- rve.l,' se-thid the (I'.uwtion finally. Tiien the excitement began to .spread. Sutter knew well the value of the discovery, and m a short; time, hav.ng iinde hurried arran>;emcnts at the fort, he returned w;th M:ir;hall to t'oloma, to see for him.self the wonder that had been reported to him. Here is wliat purports to be a verbatim ."('latioii by Sutter to J. Tyrwliitt Brooks, quite different and in n)aiiy places contradictory to that o;iven by liim to otliers. One can easily iinajj;ine bow Sutter liimself iJiiLilit chaiiLjc^ liis story in its several narrations accord- iiij^ to humor and audience: I wa.< sitting one afternoon, said the caj)tain, ju<»t after my siesta, cnf;an;ed by-the-by, in writing a letter to a relation of mine at Lucerne, when 1 Mas iii:errui>ted l<y Mr .Marsliall— a gentleman w itii wliom I liad freijuent bu ine ts t:a:i iaetioiis — bursting hurriedly into the room. Fro;ii tlie unusual agitation ill h < manner 1 iuiag Med tliat someJiing sirious had occurrel, and, as vo iiiviihiiitarily do in tliispart of the worhl, I at onee glaneeil to see if my ride w n in its pro]ier jilaee. You shnidil know that the mere appearance of Mr Mir hall at that moment in tlie fort was <|uite enouf.'!i to .surprise me, as he I. id, but two day.s before, left tlie jilaee to mak.^ some aUerations in a mill f ir .sawii g pine planks which he iiail ju;t run up for mo, some miles higl;er uit the Americanos. When he hail lecuvered him-eif a little, he told nieti;;it h'Wever great my surjiri e might be at bin unexpected reappearance, itwoiild be mucli greater wlien I heard the intelligeneo lie had eonio to bring mo. 'intelligence' he added, 'which, if properly prolited by, would jiut both ot ui in pin session fif unheard of Mealth-niillions and millions of dollars, in fact.' I frankly own, when L hea'd this, that I thought something had t udied .Marsliall's brain, vheii sudii""'vall my misgiving) were jmt toane:id 1 y his dinging on the table a handl'nl oi scales of jiure virgin gold. I was f.i rly thunderstiiiek, and a keii him to exjilain what all this meant, when ho w .lit on to say, that accord ng to my instructions, he had thrown the mill- M '^cd out of gear, to let the v]u \v body of the water in the dam liiid a jias- s:i re through tl:e tail-race, M'liich \ias previou ly too narrow for the Mater to run nlF in sufficient ipiantity, Mlicreby the M'heel M-as previ'iited from etii- ( i.nily jicrformiiig itsMork. ]$y this alteration the narruM- channel Mas coii- sdera lily enlarged, and a mass of saniiandgravcl carried off by the force of tl:e tnireat. Karly in the morning after tlii.s took place, he- Mr Mar>!iall — Mas walking along the left bank of the stream, M'heuhe perceived something which he at first took for a piece of opal- a clear, transparent stone, very common hero - flittering on one of the spots laid bare liyth.e sudden crumbling away of the bank. He iiaid no attention to this ; butM'hilebe was giving directiiuis to tlio Mdikinen, having ob-<erved several iiimilar j/littering fragments, his curiosity Mas so far excited, that ho stooiied doM-n and picked one of them up. ' Do you 74 AFFAIRS ABOUT THE COLOMA SAW-MILL. m IiII^Cji: know,' said Mar.ihall to me, ' I positively debated within myself two or throe t.me.4, whether I uhould take tlio trouble to bend my back to pick i r» one of the pieces, \nd had decided on not doing ho, when, further on, anotlier glit- tering morsel caught my eye— the largest of the pieces now before you. I condeijcended to pick it up, and to my astoni.diment found that it was a tliin scale of what appears to Ite puregidd.' He then gathered some' twenty or t'.iirty s'imilar pieces, wliich on examination convinced him tliat his suppo.i. tious were right. His first impression was t'.iat this gold had been lost or buried there ny some early Indian tribe — perhaps some of those mysterious inhabitants of the west, of whom Me have no account, but who dwelt on tl;is continent centuries ago, and built those cities and temples, theruina of which are Koattcred about the ;e solitary wilds. On proceeding, however, to exam:i:e t'.;e noigliboring soil, he discovered that it was more or less auriferous. This at once decided him. He mounted his horse and roiledown to me as fast nn it would carry him, with the news. At the conclusion of Mr Marshall's iu- count, continued Captain Sutter, and when I had convinced myself, from the t-pecimens he ha<l brought with him, that it M-aa not exaggerated, I ft It ai inuili excited as liimself. I eagerly enquired if ho had shown the gold to the work-iH!ople at the mill, and was glad to hear that ho had not spoken t(i ii single per., on about it. We agreed, said the captain, smiling, not to i:.( ii- tion the circum stance to anyone, and arranged to set oflf early the next (l::y for the mill. On our arrival, just before sundown, we poketl the sand abo\it in various place.-i, and before long succeeded in collecting between us moie than an ounce of gold, mixed up with a good deal of sand. I stayed at .Mr Mar;!!iairs that night, and the next day M-e proceeded some little distance r.p the south fork, and found tliat gold existed along the whole course; not only in the bod of the main stream, where the water nad subsided, but in evi-iv little dricd-up crook and ravine. Indeed, I think it is more plentiful in these hitter places, for I, myself, witli nothing more than a small knife, picked out from a dry gorge, a little way up the mountain, a solid lump of gold wliicli weighed nearly iin ounce and a half. On our return to the mill, we ■wcru astonished b/ the work-people coining up to us in a body, an<l 8ho«iiij,Mii small llakcs of gold similar to those we had ourselves procured. Mar li.ill tried to hiugli t!ie matter off with them, and to persuade tliem that Mliat thoy hail found wa< <mly some shining mineral of trilling value; but ono ( f thi IiKlians, wlio l;ad worked at the gold mine in the neighlmrliood of J,:i I'az, in Lower California, cried out 'oro! orot' We were di.^appointedenoiij.'li at this discovery, and supposed that tlie work-people had been watching oi,r movements, aUhough we thouglit M'e had taken every precaution ag;i ii t being observed by t!iem. I heard afterwards that one of tliem, a sly Ki;i- tuckian, had dogged us about, and that, looking on the ground to see if !:•' could discover what we were in search of, had lighted on some Hakes of goid himself. The following is an account taken by Mary P. Winslow, in Deconibor 1874, from Mrs Wicmcr, wlin, with her husband, was then in San Francisco scokiii ,' relief from the society of Pioneers. The writi r speaks of Mrs Wiemer as a fine large woman of soiii' sixty summers, with an intelligent kindly face. We arrived here November 1840, with a party of fourteen families, acinus the plains from Missouri. On arriving at Sutter's fort, Sacramento, \\>- found Froiiiont in need of more men. Aly husband enlisted before we li li got the oxoii unyoked, and loft me and seven cliildren at the fort in the i in of Commissary Currin. Wo drew our rations like commim sohliers for i 'i:r months. Captain Sutter arrangoil a room for us in tiie fort. As soon i- Mr Wiemer returned from .Santa Clara, where he had been stationed dm iii." ~1" AILL. Wis. WIEMER'S STORY. 75 lyself two or three to pick 1 1 one i>f • on, anotlier glit- iw licfore you. I , that it was a tliin ed Boine twenty or I that hia suppo i- i iiad heeu lost or >f those niysterioiis t who dwelt on tl.is , the ruins of whkh owever, to exaniiiio jsauriferoua. Thin wn to me as fast ;is ' Mr Marshall's ac- inced myself, from exaggerated, I ftlt I shown the gold to I had not spoken ti> II nil'.ng, not to r..< u- early the next il :;y oked the saudahout g between us nioiu d. I stayed at Mi- me little distance i.p lole course; not only )sided, but in evtry lore plentiful in tht'se iiall knife, picked out lump of gold which 1 the mill, we Mire ody, and showinj^ \n procured. Mar !iall lade them that wliiit ig value; but om; if neighborhood of I.a ilisappointeil enoii;;h il been watchin),'or.r precaution agn" t of them, a sly K' '.i- ground to see if .:'" n some Hakes? of yoid by Mary V. Wiemcr, who, Giiicisco soekin;; Tlie writir woman of s<»iiie ' face. irteen families, across fort, Sacramento, vi- ilistod before wo li;i'i at the fort in the c-.w mvni soldiers for i""' ;ho fort. As BOO" •!* been stationed dm ing the M'intur, he joined three others and went over the mountains to what is now called Donner lake to fetch over the etlects of the Donner famdy, after tiiat terrilde winter of suffering that you have lieaid about. In Juno IhlT tliey loaded all our household plunder for Battle creek, up on the Sacraiiionto, to put up a saw-mill, but they changed their ph«u and went to Coloma. (.'.;ptain Sutter and J. W. Marshall were eipial partners and were tlie lieail of tlie expedition. After Kcven days of travel, we arrived at sun- down a mile al)ovc the town. Next morning Mr Wiemer went out to select a site for the saw-mill, and I, a site for the house. Ho was to oversee tlie Indians, be a handy man about, and 1 was to bo cook. W'v had from fifteen to twenty men employed. ' l?ut you iiad some lielp from the Indians, didn't you ? ' asked the writer. •(Hi no. except to scratch out the pots and sweep out the dirt floors. We BOOM had a log htmse, a good log liouse, and a log heap to cook l)y.' 'I'hev liad been working on tlie mill-race, dam, and mill about six months, when, One morning along tlie last ilays of December or the lirst week of Januiiry, 1847 S, ;!ftcr an absence of several days to the fort (that was our i San Francisco in those diiys) Mr Marsli.all took Mr Wiemer and went down i to see what had been tlone while lie was away. The water was entirely shut ' otl' and, as they walked along, talking and examining the M-ork, just ahead of them, on a little, rough, muddy rock, lay something looking bright, like .gold. They both sfiw it, but Mr Marshall was the first to 8loo]).ti) pick it up, and, in he looked at it, iloubted its being gold. Our little son Martin wa< along M'ith them, and Mr Marshall gave it to him to bring uj) to me. He came in a hurry and said: 'Hito, mother, hei'c is something Air Mar- shall and pa found, and they want you to put it into salaratus water to see if it will tarni.th.' I said, 'This is golil, and I will throw it into my lye kettle, which 1 had just tried with a feather, anil if it is gold, it will bo goM wlieu its ciunos (mt. ' I tini.ihed off my soap that day and set it off to c ■', .III it staj'cd there till next morning. At the breakfast table one of t' ' »■' i- haiiih raised up his head from eating and said, 'I heard :;ouie- tiii ; lout gold being di-icoveriid, M'hat about it?' Mr Marshall told him to ask Jenny, and I told him it was in my soap kettle. Mr Mar.diall said it was then! if it had not gone back to (' lifornia. A plank was brouglit for mo to lay my soap onto, and I cut it in chunks, but it wat not to be found. At the bottom of the pot was a double handful of potash, which I lifted in my two hands, and there was my gold as bright as it could be. Mr Mar- shall still contended it was not gold, but whether ho was Jifraid his men woidd le.vve him or he really thought so I don't know. Mr Wiemer re- marked tliat it looked like gold, weigiied heavy and wouM do to make money out of. The men ])roinise<l not to lea\e till the mill -was finished. Not be- ing sure it was gohl, Mr Wiemer urged Mr Marshall to go to the fort and have it tested. He did so and Oeorgo McKinstry, an as.sayer, jiroiiouiucd it gold. Captain Sutter came right un with Mr Marshall atid called all tlie lndi:iiis togctlier, and agreed with them to certain boundaries th:it they cl.iiiiied, ;ind on the right of discovery demanded thirty jier cent of all gold taken out. They in iiayiiieiit were to give the Indiaiu a ci'rtain numbi'r of h.indki'rchicfs, pocket-knives, looking-glasses, shirts, beads, and other trinkets. ' Mrs Weimer will you be kind enough to tell me how you came hi posses- sion of this jiiei'O of g lid.' 'Yei; it was just this way; one day Mr Marshall Mas packing up to g I away. He had gathered together a good deal of dust on the thirty per nut iMHiness, and had it buried under tiie lloor. In ovi'rhaiilini; his tra[ps, he said to me in the presence of Klislia I'aekwood, 'Jenny, 1 wdl givi' vmi tliis piece of goM. I always intended to have a ring made from it for "my mother, but Twill give it to you.' I took it and have liad it in my posses- f-'on frorii that day to this. ' Vou have not the exact date of the discovery ot gold?' '\o, but it was somewhere about the holidays, for I know that Captain Sutter had sent up to ine a dozen bottles of brandy, six for the men 70 AFFAIRS ABOUT TEE COLOMA SAW-MILL and Rix tor me. ' Tliu iiiuce of sold I must describe. Its value ia bctwocii four uiid live doUaro. It looks Tike a piece of spruce gum just nut of tuu iiioutli of u school-girl, except tlie color. It is rather Hat, full of iiideiiia- tioiis, just as the teeth make in a piece of nice gum. There are one or tuu rougli points on the edge, which, with a little stretch of the imagination, gives the appuiu-aiice of a ir.an's head with a helmet on; then, turn it an- other way, and, as Mrs Wiemcr said, 'itlook^ like some kind of variiiint or other. It can easily lie identitied by any one wholun ever seen it befoic Other accounts of secondary importance are given l)y liiirstow, Slieriiiaii, Ma:<on, Bidwoll, tlic Ainiilx (}/' Suit Fritiirinrtt, the /{■jn-iMiiifjithr Mrn nj I r I'liriji, , Tuthill, liittell, Dunbar, Woods, and a multitude of uewspapir writers. ii y 11 i (roin*^ back to Biglcr's diary I find it of interest U) follow him for a few days after the discover}'. The men hastened the work at the mill, so as to keep hy their promise with Sutter, and be sooner able to diii^ for^old; and though some spoke of throvviiM^r up their employment, yet the fear that the mines were not rich deterred them. On Sundays, however, they went into the tail-race, and scratchin*.' about with their butcher knives fretjuently obtained from three to vhj]\t dollars. The first s-'old discovery be yond the limits of the Coloma saw-mill was on Sun- day, the ()th of February. Early that morning Biglir said he would cro.ss tli(> stream and try the ba^^e rocks facing the saw-mlU; Barger said he would go witli him, and the two started, taking only their knivc s. U|) to this time none of the mill hands knew tln' simple process of washiiig, nor hdd tluy ever sei ii rockers; the way they gatht?red the gold was to pick it up grain by grain as it lay on tli«?: Kjcks, or wltii tlieir kmves dig it out from the crevicis and hole r On this Sunday ]->igler secured ten dollars. For d' - termliiiiig the value of gold-dust, he made a light p;;ir of wooden scales; and by balancing tvvolvii and a hiili' cents in silver with gold-dust, lie formed a ratio of oin bit to two dollars, twenty-live cents to four dolhiis. and so on. Bigler seems to have been the only oi c wlio was seriousU' affected l>y the news of the <><iM discovery. Not «'ontent to wait till the i\ext Sunday, he on Saturday afternoon threw down his pick, for i.i' with Brown and ethers were digging at tlie race, aiid mm [ILL ^^^^AT bicler did. 77 valuo is lietweeii I juat out of tiie t, full of intleiua- re are one or two tlie iiiiaginatioii, then, turn it an- J kintl of vanniut jvcr seen it liufoir. liirstow, SherniiiM. iiiitiitii'e M'H Hi I' I- tude of uew»l<ai>»^^r of interest to )very. mill, so as to 1)0 sooner ai tie o of throwiii;,' lat the mint 8 lays, howevt r, ■atohin*.^ about obtained from i discovery bt 11 was on Sun- norning Bigl*'!' the ba^e r<)cl<s vould jjjo witli tUeir knivrs. lids knew tli"' (cy ever seta )ld was t<» piilv rocks, or with ices and boU-^- lavs. For d';- wle a lii-dit piir clv«> and a bull d a ratio of ow to hwv doUuis. ■n tbo only one vs of tbe goM e next Sunday. »vc k,f< or i.f bis I it tbe race, aa( broke out, "I say, Brown, let us have your gun, 1 want to shoot some ducks." Brown told him to take it, and Biglcr left tliem. As he walked along the rivor l)anks lie kept thinking of gold; and when about lialf a mile below the mill he fancied that on the op- jHtsite side of the stream the rocks looked similar to ' the on(^ wliereon he had found gold the previous Sun- day. They were bare, and it also seemed that tber(3 liad forna^rly been a slide ; so taking off his clothes ^:he waded over, and found the ground glistening with I golden dust. The next day was rainy, so the men eniained within doors; but Bigler, without saying a ord to any one, started down the river, crossed over Wto the san'ic rocks, and obtained eight dollars. On till' following Sunday, still keeping ids own counsel, lie went to the same spot and picked up a little over ^f an ounce and a half All through the next week he * Morkfd stea<lily at the mill; "but about this gold, if there was anything in it," he asked himself, "should not the brethren elsewhere know of it?" So ho wrote <rf it to Jesse Martin, Israel Evans, and Ephraim ( Jreen, three of liis former messmates in. tlic Mormon Itattulion, then at the Houring-mill, but asked thej^ not to mention it to m\\ one, unless to those in whom they could trust. On Tuesday, the 2'2d of Fel)ruaiy, n fall of snow stopped work, and while the men were at breakfast Marsliall walked into the cabin and said, "Boys, it is going to be slippery to day," pointing to the upiier story of the saw-mill, which had to be raisid, " and rather bad about putting up the frame ; vou mav work if you see fit, or let it alone." TIic men were glad to take a holiday, and each one had an e\('us(\ Alick Stevens declared he wanted to mend liis trousers; Brown thought he would ]»re[iare a dish of peas; and Bigler, who was present, said to Bnnvn, "If you will let me have your gun, I will go and Hh<»ot deer." "Take it," was the reply. Bigler started, and climl>in}j a hillock a little to the west of the mill, looked about as hunters do befort; choosing 11, J' AFFAIRS ABOUT THE C'OLOMA SAW-MTLL, their course. His eye glancinj^ down tlie river fc 11 uiMHi the rocks where he had twice found gold. Itlv hesitated for a moment, tlien turned to the ri;j;lit, made for the river, and was soon opposite his favorite place. The late rains had swollen the stream, and the water was verv C(>ld. Tins did not deter hlni, for undressing and carrying his gun and clothes, lie wad( d over; hut when he reached the opposite hank he wa.s so benundn'd that he could not work. He tried to light a fire, hut his fingers refused to hold the ihut and steel. He then tried to catch fire from his gun, a cap-lock, but while in the water the charge had got wet. The only way left was to run and jump ; and the most exasj)erating part of it was that right hefoic him. starini; liiin in the face, was what he souii'ht, and f)r which he had braved the danger of deadly cramps, hut which now he was powerless to grasp. Snow had fallen: the dav was cloud v, and the mists heavv. ( hi th<! bare rock the snow soon melted; in the crevict s and di-ep ]daces it renuiined. As soon as he became a little warm, Bigler set himself to work, first seardi- ing the u])per rocks, thence slowly working his way down to the water's edge, where it was so j)lentiful that he spent the remainder of tlu^ day }>ickiMg it i p, grain by grain, from the tiniest speck to the lump W'rrth over five dollars. As he dug out the gold, ju; put it in his cap. The labor was so engrossing that night ciune on before he was aware of it. As lie arose, and tried to straighten himself, he cried out with pain. He tiiought his back was broken; and without recrossing the river, he made his wav alonij; the bank, until wh< n opposite^ the dam, he called for Brown to bring over the raft. Meanwhile the sus])icions of his comrades had been aroused, and no sooner had he reached the cabin than they began to question him. Why had he crossed tlie river? Or if he wi.-hi^d to hunt on that side why had he not crossed it iii the. morning ? It was ?io use trying to deceive then> further, nor was Bigkr in the ILL. HUNTING FOR GOLD. lie river fdl 1 gold, ilo } the riijjl.t, his favorltu stroam, and Rter him, tur L>s, lie wath'd bank he was Ho tried to [)ld the iiiut roiii his gun, irixc had s»«it I jump; and rijiht hifnif > soug'ht, and adly cniiiii's. . Snow had lieavv. ( 'ii tlio crevic* s ^s lie horaiiif first scan li- iiWiS. his wav so pU'ntitiu iokiiijj; it v]*. () tlu' hiiint >e <>•(> tl rossiuij: hi. that it. A*^ u> crR'( out hrokeii; and Is wav oiiii lie ca al lied f 111' Ics had het'ii cabin than ho crossed I at side why was Jio use wl. r m liH. th humor for it. Drawing the rag in whicli the gold was wrapped from his pocket— "No," exclainis the narrator parenthetically *'»f>t that exactly either; I will tell the truth Mr Bancroft ; I had tied it up tur saf« '-keeping inthe((»rnerof iny shirt," — he showed it to his friends. They took it from hhn, weighed it, and found that he had gathered a little short of an ounce and a half. There was no further secret dig- ging for Bioler, for on the next Sunday, the 27th of J'cbruary, five others determined to accompany him; and they sinnt the day, lying prostrate with their faces to the ground, scratching and hunting for the pi-ecious particles. That night arrivi'd from i)elow three of the Mormon boys, FicHeld. Sichu-y Willis, and Wilford Huds<m, ^\ itli their guns and blankets on their hacks. It ap- |.carsthe secret writti'U to Martin, (Jreen, and Evans, was told, for easier kee]»ing, to other three;, who tind- iii'-- it heavv, started at once for the saw-mill, saving to their coni])anlons that tiny were going on a visit, and for a few ilays' shooting. IMarshall happened to be in the house when they arrived, and instead of being (►trended at Bigler's faithlessness, talked good liuinoredly about their prospects till a late hour, and gave Hudson ])ermission to dig in the tail-race. Therefore earlv next morniiiLf the three went thither, and not long after Hudson ])i( ked np a lump worth about six dollars. On Thuisdav, the I'd of ^larch, tlie Mormons took their depaiture for the Houring-null, Willis and Hudson tollowing the river to look for gold, and Fiefield, accompanied by Bigler, l>'oin*j; bv the road. All four met at the flouring-mill. All the way down tlu! river, though passing over some of the rich- est de[»osits, Willis and Hu(lson gathered oidy fifty cent-4 ; and so disyusted were thev that tlu^v refusi d to hi ve anythmg more to do with the bushiess, thoui^h uru'ed bv their friends, who volunteered to iro buck with them. Bigler, however, returned to ..,,,;■, , . - 80 APPAmS ABOtJT THE COLOMA SAW-MILL. [if Coloma, whore nothing of note occurred till Sunday, the 11th ot* March, when Miirshall started the saw- mill running. The following week was spent in deep- ening the fall in the tail-race ; but on Sunday all went gold-digging, when Bigler secured two ounces. About this time Bigkr took charge of the Indians, teach- ing them to saw and chop wood. Though anxious enough to learn, they were extremely awkward, ar.vl were continually hurting or cutting themselves. Ho worked in this manner until Friday, the 7th of April, when he, Stevens, and Brown, started for the fort to have a settlement with Sutter, and to tell him that they wished to leave for Salt Lake. On the evening of the next day they arrived at the Houring- n)ill, and found the place well-nigh deserted. They were told that Willis and Hudson, with others, were up the river getting gold. Bigler stayed over Sunday at the flouring-mill to make arrangements as to what they should buy of Sutter for their intended journey. Those present agreed to send in advance a few men to pioneer a route across the Sierra, the main body to be in readiness to start in the beginning of June, with the exception of eight men who were to leave the fol- lowing Saturday with an express for the States. Next day Bigler and his friends stai-ted for the fort with Browett who was to act as spokesman, but were una- ble to see Sutter, or buy the seeds, cattle, horses, and tv.o brass cannon they wished. On Tuesday they left the fort for home, intending to turn their atten- tion for the rest of their stay to gold-digging. As t^Jiey could not make the journey in a da}', they cn- c:Vmped for the night at a ereek fifteen miles from thi' flc\uring-mill, and next morning Bigler, whose mind wa3 running in one direction, began to look for gold; and he and his four companions soon found about ten dt)llars. As Willis and Hudson were not far away, they determined to look them up and see what success had attended them ; so keeping close to tiie river they soon came across them, at what afterward was called A DOIKOS OP TTtli: MORMONS. •I Mormon island. Five persons, Ira Willis, Jesse B. Martin, Ephraim Green, Israel Evans, together with' Hudson and Sidney Willis, were at work, and had, on that day. obtained two hundred and fifty dollars. Higler here noticed an improvement in mining, for one « r two of the Mormons had Indian baskets, and were aide hi a short titne to wash out from twenty-five cents to two dollars. l^igler arrived at Coloma on the 13th, and from tliat date he and his friends began mining. It was iwird work, for the only tools they had were their knives. He tried to get an Indian basket, but none were available ; and so had to use a tray on which he kixrded dough to serve as a washer, while Alick Stevens did good service with his wooden wash-bowl. Tliere was only one tin pan, about the size of an eight quart basin, among ail the miners ; so they had to (-arry the dirt in sacks from the dry gulches, a mile below the mill, to the river, some five to six hun- dri'd yards distant, and there wash and separate the gold. In less than tiiree weeks after Bigler's arrival at the sjiw-mill the great rush to the mines took place, and soon the little gulches were thronged with eager gohl-seekers, who disputed Marshall's claim to the land, and (luj:; where they pleased. Among the strangers was an old Sonoran who was evidently a miner. He thig a hole and filled it with water. Then he fitted into it a cotton sheet, into which he shovelled dirt, which the water dissolved, leaving the gold sticking to tlio cloth. Bigler and Brown then tried the same nictliod, but with partial success. It was at this juncture, the middle of June 1848, tliat Bigler, and many others of the Mormon battal- ion, turned their faces toward the new city of the saints. None tell us how hard it was for them to kave the fascinations of the gold fields for the distant desert, or whether it was hard at all. But it is very certain that there were few in the canons of the Cai.. Int. I'oc. 6 AFFAIRS ABOUT THE COLOMA SAWMILL. i'ti Slorra foothills who wouUl then have turnod tl.c ir back on Mammon for tho service of any other gi !. After this the world came flockint; in. The n««i: n round Marshall's mill soon swarmed with <jold-seek(rs. Two thousand dii^gers were at work there, with kni\ « s, picks, shovels, sticks, tin pans, wooden bowls, willow baskets, and cradles, pickinj^ crevices, scrapin;^ rocky beds, riddling gravelly sand, and washing dirt for tl:r metal. Shortly after there were some four thousand upon the ground, if we include natives, who wciv mostly enj[>loyed by white men. It was then ilis- covered that all about in the vicinity of Marshali's mill gold abounded. Virgin placers were found cii Feather river, on Deer creek, on Yuba river. New discoveries followed in quick succession, each addiii;; fuel to the flame. Every gulch and ravine was ])i(is- pected, and there was scarcely a spot where gold wr.s not, though not always in paying (luantiti-s. Finally the fiict became apparent that all along the base df the Sierra, on every affluent of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, from one end of the great valley nf California to the other, almost every rivulet, gul( li, and canon was rich in gold. "Some fifty thousand persons," writes one wIki deals largely in exaggeration, on the 8th of Nov<'iii- ber, 1848: "are drifting up and down the s1o[m's of the great Sierra, of every hue, language, and cliiiu'. tunmltuous and confused as a flock of wild geese ti>k- iny: win*' at the crack of a gun, or autumnal leavt s strewn on the atmospheric tide by the breath of tlio whirlwind. All are in search of gold; and, with eyc^ diluted to the circle of the moon, rush this way and that as some new discovery, or fictitious tale of suc- cess may suggest." Says another in a letter to tlio New York ./onrval of Commerce, from Monterey un<i« r date of August 29, 1848, "At present the people are running over the country and picking it out of the earth here and there, just as a thousand hogs let [ILL. (I.KRK "AL K\ A< K i KUATION. uriu'd ti;< ir other <j;( '.. The r(';j;i; ii jjold-sockcrs. witli kiilvt s, owls, willow ■a[>iii;jj rocky • dirt for tiic lur thousand ,, who wtic lis thou dis- •f Marshall's re found «>ii river. New each adiliiiLT lie was pros- lore ijold wi.s i'>s. Finally the base of raincnto and at vallev nf vulet, gul« li, cs one wlio of Nov<'iii- le slopes lit and cliiiu'. I jj^eese tak- mnal leavts rcath of tlio id, witli eyo lis way ami tale of suc- etter to tlit' iterev uiuii r people i\\y out of till' nd hogs kt 1....SO in a fon^st would root up ground nuts. Some u t eight or tell ounets a day, and the least active one nr two. They make iiKtst who employ the wild In- dians t(» hunt it for them. There is one man who lias >ixtv Indians in his employ; his profits are a dollar a minute. The wild Indians know nothing of its value, and wond<T what the pale faces want to do with it; ;nid they will giv«! an ouiu'e of it for the same weight of' coined silver, or a thimhleful of glass beads, or a Ljlass of grog. And white men themselves often giv.^ an (»unce of it, whi(di is worth at our mint eighteen <|oll,iis or more, for a botth- of brandy, a bottle of soda p(»wders, or a plug of tobacco." Then stn-anis began to form in every quarter; in- land streams and ocean curr<'nts, social tricklings and iM»zin<j;s from scattered and far distant homes, gather- ing into rivulets, and expanding into human rivers, iiiciiasing in strength and volume as they neared that worshipful irold. Bands of ilevotees were origan- i/i'd for pilgrimages, in which Christendom and |»ajfandom might join alike, in Avhioh all the sons of nit 11 might join and bow before one common shrine. In vain we search the annals of mankind for a similar flocking. The nearest akin to it were the (^hristian crusiides made in the ninth century, and subse(|uently, for the recovery from profane hands of tli(.' tomb of Christ — wild fanaticism, folly incredible, yet under providence working out for civilization the 'j;i-andest results, bringing together antagonistic socie- ties, forcing oppugnant elements to coalesce, and melt- ing and moulding humanity into more useful and cnmelier forms. But the world was smaller then than now, and although the numbers were large they comprised comparatively few nationalities, and the di.;- tance travelled was less. In the nineteenth century there were cosmopolitan crusades for gold wherewith to make rich the finder, and add volume to the world's circulatliKj' medium. Was the ijold sousxht in these modern pilgrimages essential to human well-being, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) k A {/ A f/. & ^ 1.0 I.I 25 '"'^^ I'M v.- lilM III 2.2 .1' IM lllll^ ¥" iia. II 1.25 1.4 1.6 .4 6" - ► VW' / c?m, ^% Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^ ^ ''-' .% \# V ^ /a ^ 84 AFFAIRS ABOUT THE COLOMA SAW-MILL. as appeared to be the quasi possession of Christ's sepulchre ? The central idea of the Christian cru- sades was fanaticism; that of the Plutonic crusades was avarice. Which is better or worse, which has done the more for or against human progress, is not here a point of discussion. The question is, whether gold is more valuable than religion, or avarice a nobler passion than fanaticism ? Has the world then grown no wiser nor more sober in ten centuries ? Yet as in the mediaeval crusades great benefits from great evils came, so in the latter-day crusades for gold, good will come of them; but the great good God there- from designed for man, California has yet to tell. First those nearest at hand felt the subtle influence. The ox-team of the emigrant turned toward Coloma ; the trapper left his peltries, and the ranchero his herds, curious to see what this thinoj should mean. The excitement was felt by the devoted Mormons, some 6f whom attempted a small settlement on the Stanislaus, which they called New Hope, and immedi- ately they were reconciled to digging gold as if by gen- eral agreement. Sutter was nearly ruined by the dis- covery. On the instant his laborers deserted him almost to a man, leaving a mill unfinished, and all his property exposed to the depredations of the rabble, which were more serious than those of the natives had ever been. They drove off his cattle, squatted on his land, and then combined and beat him in the courts, when courts were established. Marshall was swept away by the tide. Immediately following the discovery, most of the provisions for the mines were obtained at Sutter's fort ; then traders went to Sonoma for supplies. One would think that these early settlers, with leagues of land and thousands of horses and cattle, and of native la- borers, should have reaped a harvest from the gold crop. And so they did, most of them, at first, but so strange and unprecedented was it all to them that they became bewildered ; gold poured in upon them EFFECT OF THE GOLD DISCOVERY. SO freely that it seemed as if it would never be want- ing again. Between the embarcadero and the fort, "boatmen were shouting and swearing; waggoners were whistling and hallooing, and cracking their whips at their straining horses, as they toiled along with heavily laden wagons to the different stores within the building ; groups of horsemen were riding to and fro, and crowds of people were moving about on foot. It was evident the gold mania increased in force as the eagerly longed-for El Dorado was approached. Every store and shed was being crammed with bales of goods, barrels of flour, and a thousand other things for which a demand had suddenly sprung up. The captain's own house was like a hotel crowded with more visitors than it could accommodate." The incomers could not obtain accommodations within the fort, and were obliged to content themselves with camping outside. "It was not easy to pick our way through the crowds of strange people who were moving backwards and forwards in every direction," says one who was present. "Carts were passing to and fro ; groups of Indians squatting on their haunches were chattering together, and displaying to one an- other the flaring red and yellow handkerchiefs, the scarlet blankets, and muskets of the most worthless Brummagem make, for which they had been exchang- ing their bits of gold. Inside the stores the bustle and noise were even greater. Some half a dozen sharp- visaged Yankees, in straw hats and loose frocks, were driving hard bargains for dollars with the crowd of customers who were continually pouring in to bar- tor a portion of their stock of gold for coffee and to- bacco, breadstuff, brandy, and bowie-knives. Of spades and mattocks there were none to be had. In one corner, at a railed-off desk, a quick-eyed old man was busily engaged with weights and scales, setting his own value on the lumps of golden ore or the bags of dust which were being handed over to him, and in exchange for which he told out the estimated quantity '< IK m w > 80 AFFAIRS ABOUT THE COLOMA SAW-MILL. of dollars. These dollars quickly returned to the orighial deposit, in payment fur goods bought at the other end of the store." Owhig to the scarcity of coin, gold-dust did not bring over two thirds of its real value. On the fourth of June, Mormon island and its approaches presented scenes of the greatest excitement. A numerous cara- van was moving along toward the no longer ridiculed El Dorado. In July, Colonel Mason, then military governor of California, visited Coloma, and found Marshall livhig near the mill, while there were many persons at work on the river above and below him. Crossing over to a stream, since known as Weber creek, three or four miles below the mill, he found at work one Suilol, with about thirty employed natives, who received their pay in merchandise. Eight miles above was a large number of whites and Indians, some working in the river bed, and others in the small valleys. These latter were exceedingly rich, two ounces being consid- ered the average yield for a day's work. In a small gutter, not more than a hundred yards long by four feet wide and two or three feet deep, two men had shortly before obtained $17,000 worth of gold. An- other small ravine had yielded $12,000, and on every side there were hundreds of such. The poor natives gathered round to pick up a few crumbs of civilization, and with a new money buy new comforts to supply new wants. Gold-dust by the bushel had been within tlieir reach for ages; but with- out the conventional value i)laced upon it by the cun- ning of progress, it was of no use to them. Now, de- prived of their natural resources, they herded about the mining camps, being permitted occasionally by the kinder-hearteil miners to wash a |)an of dirt from their claims, or to sweep the sluice-boxes. Fretjuently they obtained quite a little quantity of gold on the rivers bv scraj/mg the crevices of claims abandoned bv the white men. Even In the davs of their dcjtjeneration, food hold( SAVAGES AND GEXTE DE RAZON. 87 the men maintained their lordly dignity, and loft all the gold-digging to the women. These obtained sometimes two or three dollars a day each, and with the proceeds of their labor they bought food and finery. One would think that with thousands of acres of valuable land stocked by immense herds, with gardens and orchards and fields of grain, the influx of a vast gold- producing and agricultural population, requiring food and farms, would have made the great grant- holders monarchs of wealth and industry. But such was not the result, Tlie old Mexican-Californians hereupon proved themselves a comnmnity of children. No sooner was the discovery of gold announced than hired laborers, mechanics, herders, and retainers dropped their iniplements, abandoned their trust, and rushed for the mines. No amount of money which the landed proprietor could offer was sufficient to hold them. Thus left defenceless, he was overrun by swarms of adventurers, who drove off" his cattle, shot his Indians, and took possessi(jn of his ground. Even the sedate gente do razon caught the infec- tion, and taking with them their servants and retain- ers, hastened to the mines, and selecting a favorable spot, put their men at work, while they sat in their tents in state, or strutted about from camp to camp, or lounged down among the boulders. The relations of man and master, however, were soon severed in t!ie mines, the one casting off" old ties and and affec- tions and setting up for himself, and the other return- ing home to mourn to the end of his days over the rapacity of the Yankees, and his loss of o[)portunity and loss of property, which, after all, were due for the most part to himself. The soldiers in the service of the United States were also seized with the gold fever, and abandoning tlieir ])osts, ran off" to the placers. It was almost impossible to retain crews on their ships. The pioneer steamship, California, on her first voyage lost all her 88 AFFAIRS ABOUT THE COLOMA SAW-MILL. crew ; and in order to return to Panama had to en- gage men at enormous wages. Thus, while her com- mander, engaged by the owners in New York, was receiving $250 per month, the chief engineer and the black cook had |500 each, the firemen $250 each, and the seamen $200 per man. This state of things did not last long. The next steamship of the line anchored under the guns of the United States line-of-battle ship Ohio, and her men could not desert. CHAPTER V. THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. I hiive seen servants upon horses, and princes walking aa servants upon the earth. — Ecclesicuites. California, in 1848, stood on none of the world's highways. It was an isolated amphitheatre, a valley on which the sun was ever setting, far away from civ- ilization and the homes of the gold-worshippers. On one side were seas of land, on the other seas of water. And the water and the land both were vast and bil- lowy, trackless, and often showing their hostility to man each after its fashion. One or the other of these seas of desolation, or their equivalent in obstacles, nmst be crossed before the dragon-guarded treasure could be touched. Now the journey to the mines, occupying as it did weeks or months, and being made by companies or aoforreirations of men, women, and children, called forth new phases of human conduct, no less than did life at the diggings. Two days out, whether on plain or ocean, and the pilgrim began to feel himself a new being, the chrysalis from which he had emerged being his late environs. The metal of which he was made was as yet scarcely recognizable, but the fire was a-kindling which should quickly determine it. Therefore it is proper to delineate and preserve characteristic sketches of overland and ocean travel to California durinir the flush times. And first as to travel overland. The prairie seas were not wholly unknown ; even the prairie schooner (89) 00 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. had navigated some portions of them. Since Cabeza de Vaca the Spanish castaway, Moncliat Ape the learned savage, Lewis and Clarke, Fraser, Thompson, and the others first to traverse different localities, Ste- phen Long had ascended the southern branch of the Nebraska or Platte river to its source, and an overland trade had sprung up between the United States and Mexico. Ashley had ascended the north branch of the Platte, and had encamped near the head waters of the Colorado. The year following, 1824, Ashley continued his dis- coveries through the South pass to Great Salt Lake, built a fort in Utah valley and left there a hundred, men. In 1826, a six-pounder cannon was drawn from ]\Iissouri 1200 miles through the wilderness, and planted within this fort. In 1827, many heavily laden wagons performed the same journey, penetrating far- ther westward ; among others, Mr Pilcher, who with forty-five men and a hundred horses crossed the Rocky Mountains by the South pass, wintered on the Colo- rado, and ill the year following proceeded to Fort C(jlville, then recently established by the Hudson's Bay Company. From tliesc and other points in the Great Basin, hundreds of trappers, traders, and emi- grants crossed the Sierra at the several passes between San Bernardino and Shasta, and descended into the valley of California. Smith, Jackson, and Sublette, able and enterprising men, continued the explorations of Ashley, and during the years 1828 and 1829, they traversed the whole region between the Columbia river and the Tulare lakes, and down to the borders of the sea. Smith fell a prey to the savages, it will be remembered, in 1829, after having twice crossed the continent to the Pacific ocean. In 1832 J. O. Pattie, a Missourian fur-hunter, published an account of his rambles through New Mexico, Chihuahua, Sonora, and Cali- fornia. He boated up and down the Colorado, crossed Sonora to the gulf of California, and thence to the of SOME EARLY TRAVELLERS. 01 Pacific. Captain Bonneville of the United States army, while on a furlough in 1832, with a hundred men and more than twenty wagons, achieved in the regions round the Colorado and Columbia many ad- ventures made thrilling and jocose by the facile pen of Irving Captain Wyeth, of Massachusetts, about this time entertained plans similar to those devised by John Jacob Astor in 1809, which were to concentrate the fur-trade of the United States, and establish unin- terrupted communication by means of a line of posts be- tween the Atlantic and the Pacific. Wycth's project was to establish trading posts on the Pacific slope, and send thither manufactured goods, bring back furs and salmon, and also ship furs to China. To this end he made two overland expeditions to the Colum- bia, planted Fort Hall on Lewis river, north of Great Salt Lake about a hundred miles, and a fishing post on Wappatoo island, near the junction of the Willamette and Columbia rivers, and within a short distance of tlie coast. Then boijan emioration to flow into Ore- gon from the United States, as alone the eastern part of our domain was then called: agriculturists and religious teachers, founded little colonies in tlie valley of the Willamette, and in the regions of Walla Walla and Spokane methodists and presbyterians opened schools, and Jesuits fnmi Saint Louis, notable among whom were fathers De Smet, Mengarini, and Point, attempted the conversion of the natives. In 1839, at Walla Walla, was set up the first printing press on the Pacific coast north of ^lexieo. Mean- while, notwithstanding the efi'oi'ts of the Mexican au- tliorities to prevent it, stragglers, — trappers, traders, and emigrants, — percolated through the mountains bounding Ca u'briiia on the east, and trespassed on her lands. Taese intruders would scmietimes engage themselves to work for the Californians, or to nuirrv their daughters and receive grants of land, cattle, and the catliolic religion. A i)arty of trap[)ers frimi Mis- souri arrived at Fort Yuma in 18"J7, among which 92 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. were some emigrants for California, The glowing btorios of the fur-hunters concerning the beauty, fer- tility, and climate of California, between the years 1825 and 1840, found here and there Hsteners who determined to make the venture. After all this comes John C. Fremont calling him- self explorer, and pathfinder, which latter truly he was, — finding the paths others had made rather than making them himself Three great emigrations, each three years apart, mark the exodus of the people inhabiting the frontier states, and the tide of overland travel westward to the slope ot the Pacific. The first was that to Oregon in 1843, some of which on nearing the Pacific turned oiT and entered California, guided along the Humboldt by the famous mountaineer, Joe Walker. At this time many kept the Oregon trail as far as Fort Hall, or Fort Boise, on Lewis river, before branching off for Cali- fornia. The second was that to California in 1846, pending hostilities between the United States and Mexico. These a . v^enturers were assured that California was a most delightful country, one every way desirable to settle in ; that it was thinly peopled, and except along the seaboard almost unoccupied; and that now the nation was roused to arms, engaged in a hand to hand conflict with a weaker power, which would probably result in the acquisition of all that territory by the stronger; or at all events the United States could protect citizens settled on the Mexican frontier, if not, finally, they could protect themselves. This spirit and this emigration were encouraged, both by the government and by popular feeling. The result proved as had been anticipated; scarcely had the emigrants of 1846 arrived in the valley of California, when the whole magnificent domain fell a prize into the lap of the United States, and these hardy hunters, ox-drivers, and land-tillers, found themselves upon THE THREE GREAT IMMIGRATIONS. H the spot just in time to reap a rich harvest. It was ill this year, and the year previous, that the Mor- mons, having been previously expelled from Nauvoo, Illinois, made their way out of the accursed land, and found an encampment at Council Bluff on the Mis- souri river, which was the rendezvous, or place of preparation for a further westward journey, a journey which should place the Rocky Mountains a barrier between them and the hated gentiles. The third great overland emigration was in the sprin«jj and summer of 1840, when Gold I was the watchword along the line, and Ho for the diggings 1 was painted on the canvas wagon-covers ; when ava- rice warmed the heart, and fired the brain, and steeled the sinews; when in the dreams of the ox-drivers wagon loads of yellow nuggets rolled out of rocky canons into pastures green as Arcadian vales, wherein the cattle might graze, and drink from the Pactolean streams that watered it. It was during the middle one of these great migra- tions that the Donner tragedy occurred. It was in 1846 when a party attempted a new route from Fort Bridger, round the southern end of Great Salt Lake, and through the Truckee pass of the Sierra Nevada. The company was composed of George Donner, wife, and five children ; Jacob Donner, wife, and seven chil- dren; J. F. Reed, wife, and four children; W. H, Eddy, Breen, Pike, Foster, and others, with women and children ; in all about eighty souls. The journey across the plains under favorable con- ditions was by no means an unpleasant one. Though somewhat monotonous, it was capable of being made both healthful and pleasurable. Many a one who, reduced by disease, had set out upon this journey with little hope of ever reaching the end, arrived in California well and strong, like a man newly made; many a one, alas! set out well and strong who met death ere his journey was completed. In company \m 04 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. with otlicrs, some bound for Oregon and sonic for California, the Donner party had a prosiKious j'-vii'- ney from tho Missouri, and passed the gnat divide in good health and spirits. The longer half of tho journey was acronipli.shed; the cattle were in go* d condition, and j.rovisions abundant ; it was yet nild- suninier, ample time thought they to escape tho snows of tho frowning Sierra. So, buoyant with an- ticipations of a speedy and prosperous termination of their travels, they arrived at Fort Bridger, one lum- drod miles east of Salt Lake, on the 25th of Jul v. It was tlieir intention to have continued in the Oreg( n trail as far as Fort Hall, or bevond, before turning southward toward California, but they were inducitl to deviate from the usual route by L. W. Hastings, wli(» assured them that he had found a way shorter and better than the old one, a cut-ofi* it was called, tho name referring to the route and not the travellers. Nor did Mr Hastings wilfully misrepresent matters as many charged him with doing, for his route wns essentially the same as that taken by the emigration of 1849, and by the overland stage and railway. A. J. Grayson, the eminent ornithologist of Mexico and California, led a party of pioneers in this emigra- tion. He was accompanied by his young, devotid wife, and out of solicitude for her welfare, or otlu r cause, he escaped two great dangers of the journey as by intuition. In a letter from San Francisco written February 22, 1847, speaking of Hastings and his route which was represented to be better and 2rj0 miles shorter than the old way, Mr Graysen ,'ays : " This news created some excitement amonjtj the end- grants; some were for going the new route without reflecting, whilst the more prudent were for going by the old trail via Fort Hall. I for one consulted Cap- tain Walker, who happened to be at Fort Bridgor and well acquainted with both routes, and also a man whom I could believe ; so I took his advice and went by the old trail, together with a respectable portion adA ROUl'ES AND CUTOFFS. of OTnij.'rants." Arrived at Fort Hall there ai>iKartd aiu)tli( r allurement in the shape of a cut-off. " Here wc nu>t with a Mr AppUgate," continues ]Mr Gray- sen, "just from Oregon, who came that far to meet the emigration, and conducted tlu m through a new route which he had discovered over the Cascade mountains to Oregon. This was good news to the emigrants, as it was re})resented as hring a nearer and better route of course. This caused a good manv to go to Oregon who were bound for California, as they thought they would reach tluire before they could California. But the nature of the route led me to believe it a very difficult one, if not impassal)le for wagons, which I have sinct" learned was the case. This route continues on the Califia-nia trail nearly to the California mountains, where it takes a north- west direction over two lofty ranges tf mountains — the Cascade and the Umpqua," Resting three days at Fort Bridger, the Dormer company turned their faces southward, passed Salt Lake, and on toward the Truckee river. But alas ! the farthest way round would have been the shortest way to their destination. Although this route was shorter and better than the other, it was then new, unbeaten, and often these emigrants were compelled to stop a day, or two days, sometimes eight days to explore, to cut away underbrush, to grade a bluff or bridge a marsh. Arrivhig at the southern end of Salt Lake they fell into the track of a company in advance of them, and so for a time made better pro- gress. But short was their sheen. At a place to which they gave the name Twenty Wells, they spent the night of September 6th. Some of the wells, which vary from six inches to nine feet in diameter, they sounded to a depth of seventy feet and found no bottom. After a hard day's drive, the next evening they encamped in a beautiful meadow covered with luxuriant grass, and where w^ere natural wells like the others, Upon a split stick conspicuously placed M "?»-ii 3 dd THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. they found a letter from Hastings, who had gone before, saying that betw'jen this point and the next water were two days and nights of hard driving ; so they rested the next day and refreshed themselves. Cutting grass for the cattle, and laying in a supply of water for the two days' desert, the Great Salt Lake plain they called it, at daylight on the morning of September 9th they broke camp. It was a dangerous thing to do, to cast themselves, their wives and little ones, their cattle and all their belongings, into an unknown desert where they had been assured that with no mishaps, and by straight and hard driving, there were two days between them and water; but there was now no help for it. The result proved most disastrous. The third day, at noon, Eddy and some others, with their cattle, suc- ceeded in reaching a spring seventy-five miles distant from the last wells, but they were obliged to leave their wagons twenty miles behind. About dark Reed came up, and stated that the rest of the wagons were forty miles behind, and that the fainting cattle were being urged forward to the water by the drivers. Reed and Eddy immediately started back, the latter with a bucket of water, which he carried five miles for a prostrate ox. Reed met his cattle with their drivers ten miles back, and went on to assist the Donners ; but Reed's cattle all died before they reached water. It was not until the evening of the 15th that all ar- rived in camp, having left many of their wagons scat- tered along the track, and half their animals dead. Affairs now began to look serious. Some families were completely ruined ; dread forebodings began to arise in the minds of all. With the ill-fated desert behind them they could not retreat ; before them the way was dark and uncertain. The surviving cattle were exhausted, and the woodwork of the wagons shrank in the dry air until the spokes rattled in the wheels, and the tires seemed ready to fall off. Tak- ing the cows and all loose animals, feeble and dis- pa.ssc THE DONNER PARTY. 97 heartened they continued their way, but were soon obhged to bury a portion of their property. That day thej' encountered an ominous snow-storm, and made but six miles; the next day they passed over some low mountains, and encamped in a well-watered valley. October 1st saw them slowly travelling along down Ogden river. And now begins a tale whose sickening details blot pages of our annals ; a tale before which I would gladly close my eyes and lay down my pen ; a tale which calls in question whether indeed there be in man, left to himself, any divine spark, any innate good. More bloody than beasts, more insane than demons, these human castaways in a desert wilder- ness, surrounded by their wives and children, first shot at by savages as they pass along, fall to fighting among themselves. Some oxen becoming unruly, two teams are entangled, whereupon the drivers swear; then one of them threatens to thrash the owner, and dealing him a heavy blow with the butt end of his whip, receives in return a stab which stretches him dead upon the plain. Reed, who does the killing, though regretfully and in self-defence, is driven from the camp. Thereupon he marches on before tlie oth- ers, dodging the arrows of the savages and giving the company warning of impending attacks, and thus pa.sses over the mountains into California. Continu- ing their way, an old, worn-out man, whose feet had swollen to bursting, is left behind to die. In vain does my unwilling credulity look for escape; in vain do I seek some excuse for the pitiless act ; the doers of the deed themselves tell the story, and say their cattle could not draw him. Hardcoop, from Antwerp, Belgium, sixty years of age, ill and worn out, was the abandoned man, and Eddy, the narrator of the fact,, he who refused him conveyance. One Kiesburg. a most loathsome villain, of whom more hereafter, thrust from his wagon the old man, and when besought by his companions to return for him, replied, " I will not Cal. Int. I'oc. 7 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. kill my horses for old Hardcoop." Some offered to go back on foot and bring Hardcoop forward, but the others refusea to wait for them. Daily their cattle lessened in number, some drop- ping from exhaustion, some being shot or stolen by the natives. In such cases, wago::T and property were buried at different points. One of the party, a Ger- man, having lost all his oxen, wished the company to stop while he concealed his effects. This the others refused to do ; so selecting two men, likewise Germans, he prevailed on them to help him, assuring them that they could easily overtake the train. Three days after the two men came up, and told a story of on- slaught by the savages, in which their employer was killed and the property burned. As the dead man had money, no one doubted that the others murdered him for it. Intense selfishness governed the actions of women as well as of men. Eddy, having lost all his property, picked up one of his children, and his wife another, and thus they marched along, until fainting, they begged first of one woman and then of another, a little meat to save their little ones from starvation. They were everywhere refused. Unable to get water, Eddy begged a pint of one who had ten gallons, and was likewise refused. " I will have it, or your life," cried the man, now desperate, and took it accordingly. The Donners had suffered severely with the rest, but up to this time their losses were less than some of the others. On the 29th of October, they reached the eastern base of the Sierra, which loomed before them high into the heavens, a white wall glistening with frosted pines. Climbing upward as far as they could go, they found the top of Truckee pass five feet under snow. Returning to a cabin near their camp of the preceding night, they rested next day, and on the Slst the whole party again attempted to cross the mountains. They ascended to within three miles of the summit, where they now found ten fiaet of snow, each moment thick- enet how and AT CONNER LAKE. 99 ened by the clouds. It was very cold. The wind howled round the crags, and the whirling snow blinded, and every moment threatened to engulf them. They saw how impossible it was to proceed farther, so re- turning to the cabin, they made preparations to win- ter there, near what is now called Donner lake. Soon their horses and cattle were all gone ; some butchered and eaten, others strayed and buried in the snow. A little game was with difficulty killed, but not sufficient to satisfy hunger. Starvation stared at them. It was death to go away, and death to remain there ; it is easier, however, to die in active endeavor than in passive despair. After three several failures, Eddy and sixteen others, five of whom were women, succeeded in crossing the summit on snow-shoes. This was on the I7th of December. They were now in the heart of the Sierra, faint, having but little food, and almost buried in the soft snow, which con- tinued falling day after day. They had one gun, but not a livinjcf thins was to be seen. Some were stricken with snow-blindness, and on the 23d of December, one, Mr Stanton, from Syracuse, New York, fell be- hind and perished. It was each for himself; they were all now as fiends seven times hardened. Christmas found them burrowing in the snow, and debating whether to attempt to proceed or to give it up. Eddy and the women determined to go on ; the others sullenly refused to move. From the start the allowance had been one ounce of food to each, three times a day ; now they had been without any food for two days. One, Patrick Dolan, proposed the casting of lots to determine which should die. Eddy assented; William Foster objected. It was then proposed that two should fight until one was slain ; tlien that they should continue their journey until one should suc- cumb, which last proposition was finally accepted. Then they staggered on three miles farther and en- camped. With great difficulty they succeeded in lighting a fire, but during the night it was extin- l 100 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND guished by the storm. About ten o'clock one An- toine died; three hours after, another, Graves; the next day another, Dolan, the day after, one more. Murphy. Plenty of man-incat now 1 Two went mad ; the rest took turns praying. Tighter the skin cleaved to the fleshless bones, wilder and fiercer grew the sunken eyes, and fixed and more fixed the features of the ghastly faces. Hunger even left them, and they moved about their shrunken carcasses as if just dragged from the grave. After lying under their blankets in the snow for two days and nights they struck a fire, and all but Eddy, as he says, "cut the flesh from the arms and legs of Patrick Dolan, and roasted and ate it, avert- ing their faces from each other, and weeping." The 29th of December they departed from the Camp of Death, as they called their last halting-place, and went forward. Eddy would probably have died but for half a pound of roasted bear-meat which he acci- dentally found while fumbling for something in his pouch. It was wrapped in a paper on which was written in pencil, '* From your own dear Eleanor." Ah 1 the boundless devotion of woman. He had left his wife behind, and now she starves herself and little ones to save him. Though he struggled manfully to rescue them he never saw wife or child again. Eddy was at last obliged to succumb, and feed on his fellows or die. He reported that he " experienced no loathing or disgust, but his reason, which he thought was never more unclouded, told him that it was a horrid repast." Swearing vengeance on Hastings, as others swore vengeance on Jesse Applegate for having de- coyed them, as they called it, into his cut-ofF, they staggered along, leaving on tlie white snow of the Sierra the crimson tracks of their bloody feet. Of the party were a Mr and Mrs Fosdick. The 4th of January, 1847, Fosdick died, and the body was left about a mile back from where they camped that night. ON THE SIERRA. 101 In the morninjjf, Mrs Fosdick, feeling that she must kiss once more the cold lips of her dead, started back for that purpose. In the words of Mr Thornton, Eddy's narrator, "two individuals accompanied her; and when they arrived at the body, they, notwithstanding the remonstrances, entreaties, and tears of the aflnficted widow, cut out the heart and liver, and severed the arms and legs of her departed husband. Mrs Fos- dick took up a little bundle she had left, and returned with these two persons to one of the camps, where she saw an emigrant thrust the heart through with a stick, and hold it in the fire to roast. Unable to en- dure the horrible sight of seeing literally devoured a heart that had fondly and ardently loved her until it had ceased to throb, she turned away, and went to another camp, sick and almost blinded by the specta- cle." On they go, death even too slow for their now ghoulish appetites; and as they reel along, drunk with misfortune and human blood, thej' solace them- selves with thoughts of their next repast. "There is Mrs McCutcheon," says Foster, well-nigh insane, " she's a nuisance, she can't keep up ; let us kill her. There is Mary Graves and Mrs Fosdick ; they have no children, what do you think of them ? " Some oppose, and then the men, so weak that they can scarcely stand, draw their weapons and threaten to fight over it. Next they shoot two tame Indians who had been sent bv Sutter with horses to the relief of the party when it was first told him by Reed that they had lost their cattle in the desert, and before anything was known of their 1. ' "• great distress and starvation. The names of those sacrificed were Lewis and Salvador. So faithful were they to Sutter's in- terests, that a few days before they had refused to abandon the property of their master, even to save their own lives. When Sutter heard of it he was greatly distressed, and turning to the wretches, ex- claimed, "You kill and eat all my good Indians 1" '>\ r< iSl 102 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. lil i!i u Thus they slowly continued their way down ' the Sierra to the north branch of the American river, when on the 9th of January they came to a rancheria of natives, who were so overcome on beholding the pitiful condition of the strangers that they burst into loud lamentations, the women sobbing in sympathy as they hastily prepared mashed acorns for their re- lief Then these natives sent messenojers on to the next rancheria, that its people might likewise prepare food and welcome for the afflicted travellers ; and so they passed them along from one to another, all that was left of them, until on the l7th of January they reached the house of M. D. Richcy, whose kind- hearted daughter on first beholding Mr. Eddy burst into tears without speaking a word. Of the seventeen who set out from Truckee, eight had perished by the way, and all of these were men. Every woman had come through. The news of their suffering, and the condition of those left behind, spread swiftly among the settlers. Couriers were despatched to Sutter's fort, to Sonoma, to Yerba Bucna, and im- mediate preparations were made for the relief of the sutterers. Men eagerly volunteered to go to their assistance, and money was furnished with lavish hands. Even thus early hi her history, as ever after- ward, the heart of California was wide open to tlie cry of distress. Several expeditions at once set out for Mountain camp, as the cabhis near Donncr lake were called. The first was under Reed, who when driven from the camp for man-slaughter had made his way to California, where he was awaiting the ar- rival of the party witli his wife and children, Sutter and John Sinclair sent out a party under Aquilla Glover. Eddy attempted to return with this party, but was obliged from weakness to give it up. Glover made two expeditions, Reed and McCutcheon two, Foster and Eddy one, besides the expeditions of Starks and others, and of Mr Fellan. Burying provisions in the snow for tlieir return as RELIEF EXPEDITIONS. 103 they went along, Glover and his party reached Moun- tain camp on the evening of February 19th. On every side the snow presented an apparently unbroken level, and the stillness of death was there. They shouted, and the moaning wind answered like voices from another world. Other and louder shouts were raised. Presently, like vermin from their holes, crept forth from the cabin under the snow human forms, skeletons slowly moved by a cold and aching anima- tion. A dull delirium of joy broke forth in low laughs and sobs and tears. "Have you brought anything for me ? " one after another asked, the narrator goes on to say : "Many of them had a peculiarly wild ex- pression of the eye ; all looked haggard, ghastly, and horrible. The flesh was wasted from their bodies, and the skin seemed to have dried upon their bones. Their voices were weak and sepulchral ; and the whole scene conveyed to the mind the idea of that shout having reached another world, awakenhig the dead from un- der the snows. Fourteen of their number, principally men, had already died from starvation, and many more were so reduced that it was almost certain they would never rise from the miserable beds upon which tliey had lain down." The unhappy survivors were, in short, in a condition the most deplorable, and beyond the power of language to describe, or of the imagination to conceive. The annals of human suffering nowhere present a more ap})alling spectacle than that which blasted the eyes and sickened the hearts of those brave men whose indomitable courage and perseverance in the face of so many dangers, hardships, ai)d privations, snatched some of these miserable survivors from the jaws of death, and who, for having done so much, merit the lasting gratitude and respect of every man who has a heart to feel for human woe, or a hand to afford relief " Many of the sufferers had been living for weeks upon bullock hides ; and even this sort of food was so nearly exhausted with some, that they were about to 104 THE JOUENEY OVERLAND. dig up from the snow the bodies of their companions t)r the purpose of prolonghi|^ their wretched Hves. Mrs. Reed, who lived in Breen's cabin, had, during a considerable time, supported herself and four chil- dren by cracking and boiling again the bones from which Breen's family had carefully scraped all the flesh. Some of the emigrants had been making prepara- tions for death, and at morning and evening the in- cense of.prayer and thanksgiving ascended from their cheerless and comfortless dwellings. Others there were who thought they might as well curse God as bless him for bringing them to such a pass ; and so they did ; and they cursed the snow, and the mountains, and in the wildest frenzy deplored their miserable fate. Some poured bitter imprecations upon the world, and everything and everybody in it ; and all united in common fears of a common and inevitable death. Many of them had, in a great measure, lost all self- respect. Untold sufferhigs had broken their spirits, and prostrated evi^rything like a commendable pride. Misfortune had dried up the fountains of the heart; and the dead, whom their weakness made it impossi- ble to carry out, were dragged from their cabins by means of ropes, with an apathy that afforded a faint indication of the extent of the change which a few weeks of dire suffering had produced in hearts that once sympathized with the dis^-ressed and mourned the departed. With many of them, all principle, too, had been swept away by this tr jmendous torrent of accumulated woes. It became necessary to place a guard over the little store of provisions brought to their relief; and they stole and devoured the raw-hide strings from the snow-shoes of those who had come to deliver them. Upon going down into the cabins of this Mountain camp, to the party were presented sights of misery and scenes of horror, the full tale of which will never be told, and never ought to be ; sights which, although the emigrants had not yet commenced eatin C(»nii| Wv»ul| was to go HORRIBLE SCENES. lOS eating the dead, were so revolting that tliey were compelled to withdraw and make a fire where they would not be under the necessity of looking upon the painful spectacle." Some were already too far gone to eat; others died from over-eating. Glover could take out part of the sufferers only. One of the Donner brothers was so reduced that it was found impossible to remove him. His wife, who was comparatively well, when besought by her hus- band to accompany the party, firmly refused ; and there she remained through horrible lingerings, and died with her husband, a noble example of conjugal fidehty. It was with the utmost difficulty that any of these unfortunates were conve3'^ed over the snow, and to add to their misery, Mr. Glover, when in the extremest necessity, found his buried provisions de- stroyed by cougars. One of their number, John Denton, when ho could proceed no farther, told them to go on and leave him, which was done after building him a fire and leaving him nearly all their food; and there he died. On the 25th of February, they encountered Reed and his party going in, the meeting between whom and his wife was most affecting. Reed continued his way, as his two children were yet at Mountain camp. He found the survivors in a yet more pitiful plight than when Glover first saw them. After performing several acts of humanity, the relief party "had now, for the first time a little leisure to observe. The mutilated body of a friend, having nearly all the flesh torn away, was seen at the door, the head and face remaining entire. Half consumed limbs were seen concealed in trunks. Bones were scattered about. Human hair of different colors was seen in tufts about the fire-place. The sight was overwhelming, and outraged nature sought relief by one spontaneous out- cry of agony, and grief, and tears. The air was rent by the wails of sorrow and distress that ascended at once, and as if by previous concert, from that charnel- 1 in 106 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND, house of death beneath tlie snow." There were chil- dren wallowing in their filth, and moaning for food, that had so lain, undisturbed, for fourteen days. Jacob Doniier was dead. Baptiste had just left the camp of the widow with the leg and thigh of the dead nwm, '* for which ho had been sent by George Donner, the brother of the deceased. That was given, but the boy was informed that no more could be given, Jacob Donner's body being the last they had. They had consumed four bodies, and the children were sitting ujjon a log, with their faces stained with blood, de- vouring the half-roasted liver and heart of the father, unconscious of the ai>proach of the men, of whom they took not the slightest notice even after they had come up. Mrs Jacob Donner was in a helpless condition, without anything whatever to eat except the body of her husband, and she declared she would die before she would eat of this. Around the fire were hair, bon(!S, skulls, and the fragments of half-consumed limbs." The relief party under Foster and Eddy was the next to enter. Eddv found his wife and children all dead. "Patrick Breen and his wife seemed not in any degree to realize the extent of their peril, or that they were in peril at all. They were found lying down, sunning themselves, and evincing no concern for the future. They had consumed the two children of Jacob Donner." The wickedest man of all was Kiesburg, the same who so cruelly thrust the old man from his wagon. While there were yet hides enough to sustain life, and a dead bullock uncovered by the iiielting snow on which the others lived, he took to bed with him one night Foster's little four-year-old boy, and devoured him before mornhig. "What adds, if possible, to the horrors of this horrible meal is the fact that the child was alive when it was taken to bed, leading to the suspicion that he strangled it, al- though he denies this charge. This man also devoured Mr Eddy's child before noon the next day, and was THE WICKEDEST MAN. 107 among the first to coninmnicate the fact to hnn. When asked by the outraged father why lie did not eat the hides and bullock, he coolly replied that he preferred human flesh as being more palatable and containing more nutriment." Fellen and his party, the last to visit the place for purposes of relief, did not reach the camp until the 17th of April. As narrated by Bryant, they found Kiesburg " reclining on the floor of the cabin, smoking his pipe. Near his head a fire was blazing, upon which was a camp-kettle filled with human flesh. His feet were resting upon skulls and dislocated limbs de- nuded of their flesh. A bucket partly filled with blood was near, and pieces of human flesh, fresh and bloody, were strewn around. Tlie appearance of Kiesburg was haggard and revolting. His beard was of great length; his finger-nails had grown out until tliev resembled the claws of beasts. He was ra^yjcd and filthy, and the expression of his countenance was ferocious. He stated that the Donners were both dead." Accused of havinu' murdered Mrs Donner for her money, he denied it, until Fellen put a rope round 1.1s neck and threatened to hang him, when he pro- duced some of the valuables of the Donners, and five hundred dollars in money. Fellen, in his journal, under date of April 20th, says of Kiesburg, the last of the emigrants to leave this place of abomination, "they hurried him away, but before leaving he gath- ered together the bones, and heaped them all in a box he used for the purpose, blessed them and the cal)in, and said, 'I hope God will forgive me for what I have done ; I couldn't help it, and I hope I may get to heaven yet. We asked Kiesburg why he did not use the meat of the bullock and horse instead of hu- man flesh. He replied he had not seen them. We till n told him we knew better, and asked him why tlie meat in the chair had not been consumed. He said, ' O, its too drv eatuig ; the liver and lights are 1 ' r in} ',■■>!. \ ^'ly 108 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. I a f^rcat deal bottor, and the brains make good soup." Wlicii accused of the murder of Mrs Donner, he said tliat Mrs Donner, in attempting to cross from one cabin to amither, had "missed tiie trail, and slept out one night; that she came to liis camp the next night very much fatigued ; he made her a cup of coffee, E laced her in bed, and rolled her well in the blankets, ut the next morning found her dead. He ate her body, and f«)und lier flesh the best he had ever tasted. He further stated that he obtained from her body at least four pounds of fat." A.t the close of a general summary of the affair, the Califonua Star of the 10th of April 1847, says: "After the first few deaths, but the one all-absorbinLC thought of individual self-preservation prevailed. The fountains of natural affection were all dried up. The chords that once vibrated with connubial, parental, and filial affection were rent asunder, and each seemed resolved, without regard to the fate of others, to es- cape the impending calamity. Even the wild hostile mountain Indians, who once visited their camps, pitied them ; and instead of pursuing the natural impulse of their hostile feeling to the whites and destroying them as they could easily have done, divided their own scanty supply of food with them. So changed had the emigrants become, that when the party sent out arrived with food, some of them cast it aside, and seemed to prefer the putrid human flesh that still remained." On his return to the east. General Kearney passed by the scene of these tragical occurrences, and halted there on the 22d of June, 1847. He ordt -ed the re- mains collected and buried in one of the c? ins; some of the bodies presented a mummy-like i nearance, the flesh having remahied undecayed in ti ^ dry at- mosphere. Fire was then set to the cabin, a :1 so was consumed as far as possible every trace of t e melan- choly occurrence. Of the eighty persons jriginally composing the party, thirty-six perished, of whom IMMIORATION OP 1840. 109 but eight were females, while twenty-four females and twenty males survived. Revolting as are these revelations, the half has not been told. Of the dark deeds committed In this sepulchral Sierra, under cover of night, or in the light of day made blacker than blackest night by the darkness of the deed, comparatively few have ever been told. But entmgh has been told to show us what men will do when forced by necessity. These Donners were cultivated, wealthy peo|)le; they be- haved better in some respects than the others, and yet they did not wholly forbear to eat of each other. During the immigration of 1849, and before that time, there wore many parties who underwent much suffering; some similar to those experienced by the Donner party, yet there was no instance which as a whole equalled those horrors in magnitude and inten- sity. Toward this western shore had set the world's tide of human life and human passion. So great was the movement of 1849 that I might say there was almost a continuous line of wagons from the Missouri river to the Sierra Nevada, an almost unbroken line of light from the camp-fires at night ; hence it was safe enough for single wagons, or horsemen, or foot passengers even, to join the throng. And many of these individual adventurers there were. But man likes company, especially when there is toil and un- certainty before him; and so at the east overland societies were organized and officered bound for the mines, the object being that by a conmmnity of labor or capital mutual comfort and safety might be in- creased. The idea of association was to divide the /enturo, or to unite the benefits of money and labor, or for mutual aid, or protection, or to assure attention in case of sickness, or for all these combined. One desires to go to California who has not the means, so he drives across the plains the team of ciie who 110 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. requires a driver. Hundreds of associations were formed on various plans, some to go out by water and some by land. Usually they were composed of from ten to fifty persons, though I have known companies c f 100, and one of 150 men. Each member contributed so much capital either in money or its equivalent, which was expended before starting in provisions, clothing, utensils, medicines, or whatever in the opinions of the officers would yield the largest profit, or tend most to the amelioration of the condition of the members. In Augusta, Maine, a society was formed of thirty persons, each contributhig $500, which capital was cmploj^cd in the purchase of a ship of 200 tons, and freighting it with wooden houses, machines for washing and separating gold, a mill, and merchandise, of which portion was to be sold in San Francisco, and part to be used by the members of the association in mining and milling operations of their own. Another similar copartner- ship was organized at Utica, New York, with a capi- tal of $30,000; and many others. The ships were to be sold or abandoned at San Francisco, and seamen eagerly shipped to be discharged there. But these associations were mostly failures. They were too cumbersome, the men too inexi)erienced, too little acquainted with the country and with what they proposed to do, knowing neither each other nor themselves. The ineffiv'ient members cramped the energies of those who might succeed alone ; cumber- some associations cannot move with the promptness and celerity of hidividuals ; they are unable to act indi- vidually, to seize occasions, and the best men belong- ing to them are usually most rejoiced to be free from them. Codes were sometimes adopted and by-laws signed ; but from inexperience, and the festerings arising from new and strange abrasures, c. verland parties frequently broke into helter-skelter scrambles before the jour- ney was half completed. Frequently the means THEORY AND PRACTTCE OF ASSOCIATION. Ill hat nor the )(r- laiul ^idi- mg- Ifice ioa ; roin hly )ur- bans necessary for the journey, either by land or water, would be furnished by i»ne in consideration of a prom- ise from the other to perform a certain amount (f labor, or to divide the profits. But so entirely then was California beyond the reach of law, or even light, or restraint, that a man must be impregnated with honesty and conscience in a remarkable degree long to be mindful of obligations entered into with those who are never to know if he keeps them. No sooner was a family, tor instance, fairly started overland, than the master was as much m the hands of the man as the man was in those of the master , and often an emigrant was obliged to submit to insult and wrong heaped upon him by some base-minded churl to whom he was doing charity All the em- ployer could do in such cases was to turn the man adrift, but this was impracticable in the middle of tl.o plains with teams and stock to be attended to. Moreover, such action might be exactly what the fellow would like, as he could then make his way f )r- ward untrammeled, with what his employer would feel obliged to give him, or he could join some other band. Often when ready to start, the most absurd rumors were rife. Some would say that the Mormons, ready to kill or convert the emigrants, waited and watched for them at the rivers ; in romantic re^jions savi.,i;es lurked, if so be they should escape the avt'nging saints; while still farther west, the emissaries of per- fidious fur-companies had penetrated to brilu' with rum or blankets the unso})histicated red man, and stir him up against intruders upon the game-tilled park that (k,d had given him. Full of fanciful theories, until experience beat prac- tical common-sense into them, some of the d(»lngs of the emigrants were most childish. One conipany a few davs after starting was struck with a freak of law-making; and immediately after attempting to put in practice the new regulations, as was often liie case, ii I ir 112 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. I'^ 11' it all fell in pieces. It appears that an edict had gone forth against dogs ; all must die or leave the train. The enraged owners of valuable canines rushed to arms, and prepared to mingle the blood of the slayers with that of the slain. The result was the amendment of the decree and a reelection of officers. The ordinary migration was something as follows : From the various points of departure along the then so-called western frontier, companies, families, and in- dividuals set out on foot, on horseback, on mules, in covered wagons — prairie clippers or schooners some called them — drawn by long files of cattle, and filled with flour, bacon, beans, sugar, coffee, tobacco, whisky, cooking and household utensils, and other useful and useless articles, many of which were soon to be thrown away to lighten the load. Extra draft and riding animals to be used as relays, and to take the places of the exhausted, lost, or stolen ; and some- times cows and sheep, were driven, beside or behind the wagon. As the animals thinned in immber, oxen and mules, or horses and cows, might be seen yoked together, and horseless cavaliers, thankful of any re- lief for their blistered feet, did not disdain to mount horned cattle. In the wagons were women, children, and sick persons, though often these were obliged to walk to save the strength of the fainting animals. At the belt of many were carried a large knife, and one or more revolvers ; slung to the back a rifle, and from the saddle-horn a lasso hung ready for inmio- diate use. Taking with them their wives and children these gold-worshippers left behind — not starvation and anarchy, but peaceful, happy homes, good governuient and plenty, abasing their work-worn women, and exposing their nurselings to burning plains and icy mountains, dooming them to disease, perhaps death. Love of adventure prompted some, love of 1 We crii tho hy thrd the dow mon ha hi and out c turke some and i quarr secure antelo beasts womer someti] and h< buried it woul nually ! To c tically i reached was not of overii Missour from the or if for taken — t within si dotted th old pion< that. A glowing 8 Cai health most „f tu ' crime not a few *^"' ""d We of lawlessness and «'ougl "KteSr ""'■?'""* 2,000 miles aown into the garden of P„lf ■ ™ Nevada, and months the em,|™„Ts Vte ^''f°™>^ , J'"'" weeks a"d haWion; eve.! the h!^^s ofSt"^''* °^ ""^ human «ncl then swept down uZ ti°„ ''^ "^^^S^^ that now out of view. On reachL i ' """"^ "ninown and turkeys, and an ocSoiaf ttT"'' "^''""^ e'k, wM «om« would pursue, but wff't' ^ ■"^^""• ^^'"ich and then a wiser hunter whV. f?''ept,on of now quarry their incipient 1,1? • T,""''' "'"''o » noble secured little food. :^fr''\ of fire-arms ante ope with the g^ w„lf oo "5"'° ""'' 'catteril b^stsof prey, witlfno^&Zf >/^^'"' ^"'^ ««>ef women, were the ^nlo ^* of savage men nn^ -metimes sterS: Region ''T'^ "^ ""s^^lf :„"^ and here and ther?ve„e.i '"**J7'''» was water .buried the traveller t [^«'^'^''on. Sometimes s^'l " would be too pooi even .'VTy '■»'<'«. andaS "ually swept over it " '" ^""^ *he fires thatC tieaHyl^^Sble^rir ^""''^ -'"*- was prac ^^oaehed tfe eas too Ute^Z'S' "^*'^« 8°'^ dfsco^v: t was not until abont t • , .?''e summer of ISJB X mS"^ emt:Ut%:;5'-/^;^84» thJt'h^elide' iVlissouri, was one of the oh; T "' ^"^^pendence from the northern states and S P"'"*" "^ ^^P^^uTe or if for southern California f J ^^S'^"^^"*« ^^^ goal taken-that old trai nev^l f' ^^"*^ ^^ traiJ^was yithm shot of the bartn W-'^,^"-^^ ^^^nee passhu' jotted the horizon or fitd ^Vj ra'" '''''. -casCaH^ old pioneers who had Jaid 1 7T'' ^^^ *h« wary *^at-. At this time 30 oon 7*""* ^"^^ better thZ glowing ardor, anTfrom h, S' '/^ ^ ^^'^'^-h in its CA.. i«x. Poc. 8 """^ '^^/ndividual history, might F) lU THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. tell a tale more thrilling and more fascinating than any of ancient pilgrimage, trailed over plains and rug- ged hills of desolation, often with a miserable road, or with no road at all ; and exposed to tornadoes fierce enough to demolish a caravan, followed by ravenous wolves and croaking ravens, harrassed by savages, keeping watch by night, and sweating and swearing by day ; suffering from scurvy and fever engendered by salt unwholesome food, and from cholera brought up the river from NeV Orleans, and wliich clung to them until dissipated by the sharp air of the elevated regions 500 miles distant Over the boundless prairies they straggled, up in to the rarified air that stifled men and beasts, down into waterless, sandy sinks ; across sage brush plains efflorescent with alkali, over salty- white flats caked hard as st(me, through blinding dust, and into heaps of sand-like drifted ashy earth where the animals sank to their bellies ; resting by cooling springs, or thirsting beside fetid and acrid waters; windinjr along the banks of slug'>ish water-courses, fording brackisli brooks, swinnning ice-cold rivers, ex- posed now to the unbroken rays of a withering sun, and now to chilliing hail-storms, hurricanes, and suffo- cating sand-blasts; sometimes miring in mud, sonus times clioked in impa][)able dust which saturated hair and clothes, filled eyes and nostrils, and made these emigrant trains look like caravans emerijiny: from an ash storm on the })lains of Sodom. But what were these temporal miseries beside the eternal reward that awaited them beyond the Sierra, which, from its eastern slope, so giimly frowned on those who came so far to tamper with its treasures? Blessed faith 1 though material and transient in its promised joys, it was none the less innnortal What thougli credence be but a fata mon/ana, happiness a phantom, and flattering hope be fed by night on dreams and by day on mirage ; what though imaginary shapes take on reality, and thought spends itself in midnight apparitions and fantastic aerial visi(His, faith and hope ermjt: o MIRAGE. 115 and happiness are none the less real, none tlie less eternal By clay and by night, waking or sleeping, gorgeous pictures toward the west were spread out before these pilgrims — by day, phantasmagoria, aerial plays of fancy as manifested in these terraqueous metamorphoses due to variations from ordinary refrac- tions of luminous ra^-s hi their passage through atmos- pheric strata of ditl'erent densities, thus pluraliziiig reflections, bnnging objects nearer, trans})orting them to a distance, lifting them up from below tlje horizon, investing and deforming them — by niglit, pictures of tlie past and the future, the unwelcome })resent foi' the moment wrapped hi oblivion; pictures of lionte, of opulence, of merry-makings, and heart-gladdenings. Here, high above the ocean, between the two great uplifted ranges, wliere hills and desert flats rise well nigh into the clouds, is the native land of the mirage, distinct in its unreality, magnificent, ihougli built of air and sand. Now it is a hmely valley, bearing in its bosom a glassy lake, girdled witli waving groves and parted by rushing streams; and now tlie gilded spires of a mighty city pierce the dull, desiccated heavens, massive masonry pillars the firmament, while long drawn shadows cross and re-cross the marble domes and crenelled turrets of atliousand palaces eni- bahned in pleasant gardens like a Babylon, or gleam- ing from settings of silver as wliere tlie lion of Saint ]\lark keeps guard over the bride of the Adriatic; at times, again, their own images would loom out (Us- torted hi figure or position, like the gliostof Brocktn, through the ghiomy sultry air paljiable with sand. As when, bk^ar-eyed from long contentions witli tlu) sand and sun, exhausted by toilsome travel and faint- ing with thirst, Fancy strips the eartli of its jiallid cov- ering and fills the rent with the vaulted firmament, sets up images motionless in the air and sends aerial animals of divers sorts in hot chase one after another, inundates sandy plains by the beating of the upahoot- ing sua upon the surface, and places before them 116 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND, transparent pools and isle-dotted lakes, reflecting cool groves and grassy resting places, only to be borne oft' by the wind, and cruelly snatched from their grasp on nearer approach ; so to the ardent longings of their inflamed brains, fickle fortune, incarnated, becomes a true prophetess, and beckons them on with pleasing illusions to their destruction. Alasl that it should be so ; that fortune, fame, and happiness, and life itsclf, should be so like the mirage to which these foot-sore desert- walkers so often anchored their hopes ! At the beginning of the journey, witli fresh cattle, a })lentiful store of food, and a road that lay through grassy prairies and well-watered valleys, with bright, cheerful warmth by day and restoring sleep at night, each dropping into place, and all attending to their several duties, driving their teams, seeking water, preparing resting-places for the night, unyoking oxen, picketing horses, unpacking the wagons, pitching tents, gathering wood and cooking the supper, mending broken wagons, telling stories by the camp-fires, watching their grazing cattle, or scouring the adjacent plain for the strayed or such as had been stolen, chasing buffalo, shouting antelope, parleying with the natives — in the first flush of sanguine hope, with ex- pectation bright before them, this sort of life was not so bad. When a caravan camped at night, the men made a circle of their wagons, at once a bulwaik and a corral for their cattle. About this they pitched their tents, and surrounded all with a guard of blazing camp-fires, which threw their glare far into the sur- rounding darkness, and illuminated the groups that cooked or smoked or slept beside them. Golden- winged Eros sometimes dropped in among them, flut- tered about the wagons, and a clergyman or squire must be hunted up among the trains to terminate his sad doings by a marriage. Once in a while they killed a buffalo and then they munched and munched, till marrov -nd fat, and fullness made their worn, wan faces tc bine in the red fire-light like the satyrs. bon£ I-;VND xMARKS. 117 a>'<l a.Chimney rock at nnl *f "'" *'"• ^''"^''•tl tuttes nant „f an ancient biuffbT^f" '""■"'■»™t and rlm- by the winds and vT' e "P"" "'"i won, awZ ^ face of hoavcTtl:. S^fi' ''""? """ ^ warning, as you cl.oosc f,f'. ■"'S^'' »f 'i"!'" <>r spread for „,ifestl,ersnLl.^ *l"'' "• ^-ott blurt^ Krand as the hills o Sw a,? ur^-""'' *""'elif^ "»«.'.;• one, through the Z "* *''" S^antcitics; l.ut tomb „ foe, heralcQ by ^SyTf *'"^'''' '^-'"''=rin". «■•«, girdles their rauimrts ami fl "'"",'""' l»"ar of IS heard ajrain throu..rtl ? ' 'f "''a^l' "fa Jericli,, an J the roar of tfe^ ea^!,!™"''^'^ "^ "'« ta» - grass becomes scarcelT^br^ '."'''■'"'™''- '^^^<'- tiTe' '» "'any places is all c«,sumed f ?"* ^'^^ ""• and '1- routes must be sonTf ', '"' ""^ and u„ r„,| '^"■/"od, and wo„,cn S ' if!"' '""'•' K'in to fll,t »'"' »'en, ill-fed l"l l^t'^t?^'" ^"^^'^ an,| die fi;-'" daylight till dark'^dex^,^' h*'","^ *''" ""'WlJ "flioat and cold, be,;i„f'JT'',*;t'''''-'"'ato blasts 'ftonedof thoir'lai"'"rt,nnld ^V"^ ""'^' l'« P=wr dumb brutes thus slmwiT^^' ^^'^^amvliile the 'xvners- gree<l, gasph', ajlC"'-iT'"''="' '"«'«i^ ppon-mouthcd, with Inillt J"^<"'«We to the .r„ad ja-s and dull sunken "^ d""*-'""- ""'' ^'^^' t venty miles a da,-, or wfth if? "'""=' "'^r two „? *. an' ,rr:' tS*:^ -r^. n.- reaso,,. Mows, mai,3. • '•them and m'iiiH -'7 <'"'' l"""- the carcasses oi their boal Tn li"""" """""^ wi"' 'allw of the MississiimTt ,'^" V'" "'V"'"' the tracks were marked by reirf "'''"'• '"»»• t-.rtuo s t;^.ts, east-offclothi„/s 1 nrn • •™«°"'' d«'""lisho< ^--^therottiug'^i~ftfe-ffl 118 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND witli the 111 covered <;ravcsof incn and women, u^hastly Bkeletotis of jrolden hopes. Some were ovcrtak(!n hy the snow, and losing their way, perished ; some wero sliot hv savaojcs; some fell bv disease. In thcwords of a pilgrim, "the last part of the emigration resembled the rout of an ami}-, with it.s distressed multitudes of helpless sufferers, rather than the voluntary movement of a free people." On reaching the Truckee, their weary spirits grew buoyant again; for now the trail w\as <jfood, water and <;rass abunlant, and the first tall trees which thcv had seen for elLjht hundred miles, appear. So on the survivors come, sometimes worn out bv famine and fatigue, over sterile hills and scorch- ing Saharas, through the valleys of death and from tlie plains of desolati(m, heedless if not heartless, up by the pathway through the cloven granite, through the mountain pass, then zig-zag down the steep slopes, and beneath the shadowy pines of the Sierra, empty- ing all that is left of them and their belongings into the valley of the Sacramento, or into the garden of Los Angeles, ready after their toilsome march to reap and riot with the best of them. Fortunate indeed are they if their last flour be not cooked, and the last morsel of rancid bacon be not de- voured, before reaching their journey's end. Once among the settlers, however, and they are sure of the meansof appeasing their hunger; for there yet remains something of that substantial hospitality which the jioorest western emigrant would tliink it shame to re- fuse another. Now they may revel in the realms of golden dreainr,. Here, indeed, is the promised land; and these dirt- colored, skin-cracked, blinded, and footsore travellers, whose stomach linings are worn and wasted from car- rying foul food and fetid water — let them enjoy it. Stripping off their ragged and gritty clothes, tlie newly-arrived may bathe in the inviting streams, drinking in the cool, refreshing water at every pore ; they may put on fresh apparel, and fill themselves THE LAND OF CANAAN. lid with good bread and beef; tlion mounting their liorses, they may wade them through tracts of wihl oats that top both horse and rider, and they may tread down t]»e yeUow bloom of countless autunmal Howcrs. Tliey may see licrds of antelopes passing along the plain like wind-wave'S over the grass, and droves of wild horses tossintj their heads in the air as their broad nostrils catch the taint of the intruders, and great, aiitlered elk, some as big as Mexican nmles, grazing about the groves and under the scattered trees. Now they may rest, and now the more fortunate may hope to enjoy the luxury of house, and bed with clean slieets and soft pillows. Yet at first, to him who has long slept in the open air, these are no luxuries. Often tliose accustomed to every comfort at Jiome, neat and fastidious in all their tastes, on resuming their former mode of living after sleeping a few months in the open air, have been obliged to leave a comfortable bed and spread their blankets under the trees if they would have sleep. The house and its trappings stifle them. So hates the savaije civilization. The relative dangers of the overland and ocean journeys have sometimes been discussed. I should sav that hi dansjfor, and in the romance which dan<j:cr brings, the journey across the plains eclipsed the steamer voyage, in which there was more vexation of spirit than actual peril. Even the long and stormy passage of Cape Horn had fewer terrors than the? be- lated passage of the snowy Sierra. The traveller wlio takes ship for a far-off' laud incurs risk, it is true ; but if he reaches his destination at all, it is without effort on his part. He throws himself upon the mercy of the elements, and once having done this he can do no more. But there is much that is strength- eniuix, ennoblinti:, in the battlinos and uncertainties of overland travel. I have, indeed, often thought that man is never more ingloriously placed, that his petti- ness and feebleness are never more ignobly patent. 120 THE JOURNEY OVERLAND. I! than when he is brought face to face with nature upon the ocean. See him as he scans the horizon with anxious and fearful eye, watching for an enemy which he knows is his master; mark him, when that enemy appears, cringing and shrinking from tlie shock of battle, his ship tossing helplessly with folded and bedraggled wings, as if seeking to become so small and insignificant that the storm will sweep over her bowed head in contemptuous pity. But what a different aspect man presents wlien braving and contending with perils such as those to which our overland immigrants were exposed. They were not so much at the mercy of capricious elements, to drive them hundreds of miles out of their course or retard their journey for months. Upon their own strength, courage, and endurance they relied. Havhig determined their route they set their faces westward, and westward by that route they went until their goal was reached, opposing force with force, meeting danger, difficulty, and hardship, without flinching, conquering every foot of the way by their own indomitable will. Yet, alas ! many here fell by the way, as we have seen. CHAPTER VI. THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA— NEW YORK TO CHAORES. Some 8ct out, liko crusaders of old, with a glorious equipment of lio]ie anil ciitliUMiasiii, and gut broken l>y the way, wanting iiaticnctt witli each other and the world. — Georije E'uot, EvEUYBODY is supposcd to Iciiow, tliougli cvcrybotly does not know, that Phryxos fled from the wratli of his father AthaniJis, kin»( of Orchoinenus, in BoDotia, riding througli the air to Colchis upon the rain with tlie golden Hoece, which was the gift of Hermes. The ram was then sacrificed to Zeus, and the fleece given to King -^]tes, who hung it uj)on a sacred oak ill the grove of Ares, where it was guardctl night and day by an ever-watchful dragon. Polias, king of lolcos, in Thcssaly, sent Jason his half brother s son, wlio claimed the sovereignty, with the chief heroes of Greece, in the ship Argo to fetch the golden fleece. Jason obtained the fleece, though Pelias had hoped ho should have been destrovcd. Of the Arsjonauts there were fifty in number, and among them Hercules, and the singer Orpheus, Castor and Pollux, Zetes and Calais, Mopus, Theseus, and others, the stories con- cerning whoso enterprise, it is thought, grew out of the commercial expeditions of the Munvans to the coasts of the Euxiiie. Ulysses, returning from the scige of Troy, made a ten year's voyage, being driven about by tempests, during which time he underwent many strange adventures. Other Mediterranean mythological voyages there were, and hypothetical navigations to the near shores and islands of the Atlantic and Indian oceans; follownig which were { 121 ) 122 THE VOYAOE TO CALIFORNIA. tlu! voya«2^('H of tlie Sraiulinaviurs, tlioso i\crco Nofae- iiK'ii tliat wcro the terror of all the maritime nations of nortlurn Europe, and tlie first kn«)\vn tliscoverors of Amt rica. Then there were tlie vovai^eH of tlie l\)rtiiL;uese round Africa, and of the Spaniards to America; tliere wi^re the ])ut('li vova<jfes foreoiujiust, and tlie Enuflish vovaytes of eireunniavisjration ; tjiero were vovai;es of discovery, commercial vovanes, V()V- ages for purposes of war, science, and reliujion, for pleasure, proHt, and prosclytin|j;, hut never since the sea was made has there hcen seen such vova<;inij: as the trip to California during the flush times. And never shall the sea behold such sights again ; nevt r shall tempest sport such tangled human freight, nor the soft tropical wind whi.sper of such confused and desultory cargoes as those which swept the main in shijis from every point in search of the new golden fleece. As compared with contemporaneous trans- Atlantic navigation, the voyage from New York to San Fran- cisco by way of the Istlnnus presents entirely distinct features. It was an episode individual and peculiar ; a part, and no small part, of the great uprising and exodus of the nations; it was the grand pathway of pilgrims from all parts of the eastern world ; it was brimfuU of romance and comedy, of unnumbered woes and tragedy, enlivened now and then by a dis- aster which sent a thrill throughout the civilized world. It was a briny, boisterous idyl, where courage bore along slippery passage-ways, and love hjunged U]H)n canopied decks, and sentiment in thin nmslin cooed in close cabins, and vice and virtue went hanrl in liand as friends. The California voyage occupied twice the time of the trans- Atlantic ; the steamers employed in tin. former w^ere large, standing well out of water, and capable of carrying from 700 to 1,500 passengers, while those of the latter were lower and smaller. In the character of the passengers, those by European ABXOIIMITIES OF THE JOURNEY. 123 vessels were more lioinogeneous, more alike one an- other, each ship carrying a fraternizing cargo what- ever tiie caste, a cargo of ncaicr kin.slii[) in origin and dt!stlnation, while on the Cahfornian stcanurs ail was babel-tongued discordant conglonu'ration. In scenery the California trip, as compared to the European, is as kaleidosco})e to spy-glasH; there are seas that lash themselves into angry foam, seas that race their hlue billows aloni;, swirling and shaking their crest:4 in careless wantonness, and seas glassy as mountain lakes, mirrorinur the luxuriant ijreen of tropical isles and mainland. Within the three weeks allotted to the trip the voyager j)asses under the hitluence of the four seasons, is introduced to wonderful lands, and made acquainted with strange peoples. Nature and human nature assumes phases altogether new; unitpie experiences and wide prospects shaqMMi tlu^ faculties and eidarge ideas. A sort of inspiration follows; the windows of the mnnl are opened atid innnensity rushes in, even sea-sickness is an Inspiration, or is followed by keener thoughts and an inspiriting frame of mind. The reasons whv there never again can be such sea- voyagings are obvious. This planet has no other Cali- f )rnia left, no other Pacific coast, no further stretch of gold -besprinkled un(>ccupied temperate zone. CJold discoveries there may be, and possible uprisings and rushes, but the earth is now belted by railways and telegraphs, and all ])arts of it winth rusliing to, all parts of it possible to seize, pleasant to live in, or profital)lc to subdue are now occupied and guarded by civilized or semi civilized nations. There never will be another crusade for the recoverv of the holv sei^- ulchro, nor another ten centuries of religious wars, nor another Bartholemew massacre, nor any more old-fashioned voj'ages of discovery, nor any more California gold-hunter's voyages of adventure. His- tory may repeat itself; so may nature, progressional pheuouiena, and fundamental social laws, but mon- IM THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. strosities, aberrations, and abnormities, never. The early voyage to California, like everything purely Californian, is and ever shall be mi generis. On the 24th of February, 1852, accompanied by my friend Mr Kenny, I set sail from New York in the steamer George Imw for Habana. There were then two steamship lines in operation between New York and San Francisco — one by way of Nicaragua, and the other by way of Panamd. By the Nicara- gua route, passengers were conveyed direct to San Juan del Norte, or Greytown, where they took a small steamboat and were conveyed up the river San Juan and across Lake Nicaragua to Virgin bay, Rivas, or Nicaragua, as the landing was severally called ; thence by land to San Juan del Sur, and again by steamer to San Francisco. Two steamers of the Panamd lino, sailing one from ISew York and the other from New Orleans, met at Habana. There the passengers and mails of both were transferred to a third steamer and conveyed to the port of Chagres, where, disembarking, the Chagres river was ascended in small open boats to Gorgona, or Cruces, thence by saddle and pack nmles to Panamd, where the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's steamer lay waiting to sail for San Francisco, touching at Acapulco. As early as 1835 the attention of the president, Andrew Jackson, was called by Henry Clay to the subject of inter-oceanic communication, and Charles Biddle was appointed commissioner to examine tlie several routes and report thereon. Nothing, how- ever, was then accomplished. In 1847 the vexed question of the boundary line between British Columbia and Oregon having been settled by treaty of the United States with Great Britain, it was deemed desirable, if possible, that some shorter and safer route should be found to the rich valleys of the Northwest Coast, which were then rapitllv being settled, than the savage path across the plains, or STEAMSHIP COMPANIES. Panama to Astoria. Oregon f T ^"^^ ^ork via tic side at Charleston 4^ ' ^^^^^^^ng on the Atlan *!- Pacific at ttiefrSr"' ^^^^' «-' - ^'«co. Under this aS.f '''''^^' ^"^ ^an Fran- month^^^^ contract for 'a f 09,000 per annum, was aw^'f, ! *^T"Pe«sation of who assigned it to wlllitm K a" ^'""^^ ^^^^Is, associates. Here thon , ^«P'»waJI and his Pacific Mail steL h ;'c^:::;.t """^'r^ « ' «- h\ the acquisition of k 1 fi ?^^ ^' '''^^^^' stimulated CO d cliscoieries--b;;th : ^'Xr^ '^" ^"^-'i"-^ within less than three monVlT iJ •^''^"^^ J'appened a>^«umed manimotirpZ" !^^^^^^^^ ^ts organizatLJ largest oceanic transportation ' ^"^^ '^^^^'"^ the 7«r seen, having [TrtteS T^""'^ ^^'' ^^^'^^ has steamers, sending^its^i^nlr "' f''^^ «^ ««v<'"ty seas every fifteen davsZ 7 ''t Ploughing the >^ow York to HongTon^ L'r^ «-;3g^be'froni ^an Francisco. "^ ^' ^^ ^^7 of Panamd and Pao,(,c, tl,e service on^he Atl^v'"''!''"""*"' *" «■« ""•"P'oes of the ir„ited State, M-rJ?r"'8 "'"''•'• tl^e l«".v, wliieh sailed their , ¥"'■' Steamship Co,,,. »tcamers were built and jesiafche f"* "'^, '«^^- «' «« fi;r San Francisco, via Samd /?;','' S"!^' H-m I'o /'««awa beino. obli,., d t r i . '*f^""> a'tbou.rh ;%o« was the first ZrrX* l^^'Z^'f""''^- *''« tl"8 naming of their eraT, It T,'^'**""'*''""- la ^;"'». even" then, was^lt ,*,""] ',''/'""*,'"'* ^ali- "f these ship-owners a tL? . •'"?«'*"> "'e minds -'-tie news of thelt^of ^o^d 11 1^ THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. reached tliem wlien the pioneer vessel, the Califonua, went to sea, which was on the 6th of October, 1848. The Panama and the Oregon followed the California at short hitcrvals. In consequence of the 5>()ld discovery, and the distraction in maritime afthirs growing out of it, the original project of contiiming the line to Oregon was abandoned, and San Francisco was made the terminus. The Pacific Mail Steamship Company was not the first to raise the shrill whistle of steam in these west coast waters. Organized in Enyjland hi 1840, was a company for the purpose of steam navigation in the Pacific, and two steamers of 700 tons each, tlie ]l\ru. and the f'liili, were sent under the conunand of William Wheelwright throutch the strait of Mai^cllan to the port of Talcahuano; but this enterprise failed from impro])er managemcnc. In 1845 a little steam schooner, whose machinery had been put in by Erics- son as a sort of experiment, was sent by 11. B. Forbes from Boston round Cape of Good Hope to China, and upon the death of the captain the mate claims to have crossed thence to San Francisco. Then the Hudson's Bay Company had their steamer plying between Puget Sound and Russian America before the California, a magnificent wooden side-wheel steamer of 900 tons, entered proudly the Golden Gate. On the 1st of December, 1848, as our history tells us, the Atlantic company des})atched the steamer Falcon for Chagros to connect with the California from Panamil, northward. The passengers by the Falcon were not all of them gold-seekers, as rumors of gold discoveries prior to her departure were so faint as to have created little impression upon the public mind. Arrived at Panamii, however, they found some 1500 eager adventurers dose upon their heels, all clamorous for a ])assage to San Francisco, each ravenous to be in at the rich harvest before the others. All anxiouslv awaited the arrival of the STEAM AND GOLD. 127 California, which made her appearance twenty-five clays after the Falcons passengers had reached Pan- aiiiil, and with 500 of the more highly favored, the first steamship sailed majestically up the coast, entered the bay of San Francisco, and came to anchor between Yerba Buena island and the Cove, on the 2Hth of Februarv, 184!). What an awakeninij was here alonu those hitherto slumbering shores ; steam, gold, and Anglo- Ameiican occupation, all in a breath I And let it be borne in mind that neither of these events grew out of the other ; each was independent, though all simultaneous - -as if this fair land, ripening for untold agt-s in the womb of tim<', i'at! with the throes of progress now been born tn iht >: i '^re, and made reatly for the use of civilized iM'dii. Then followed a series of the vilest impositions ever ]iractised upon a travelling public. An o])position line by way of Nicaragua was early establislu'<l, but tilts tended rather to increase than to diminish the discomforts of jiassengers ; for the fare was at times r duced so low that it would scarcely ])ay for the food consumed, to say nothing of conipensati(»n for passage. Then combinations would be entered into, and C^ali- r>inia made to bleed for the shipowner's f)rmer losses. Subse(|uently the Nicaragua company ob- tained control of the Pai-ni::^; line on the Atlantic side, and the Nicara'^ua ]\u(: \\;.y, discontinued. Tliis made matters worse Mi n '■va-, for so powerful had tliis monopoly now become, ^bat it could safely defy opposition from any source, '\l cj»ese heartless and Uiiscrupulous steamship magnates, called by the nmch alnised Californians the scourges of the ocean, were determined to wring from their traffic • the last i)ossible dollar, at whatever cost of comfort, health, property, or even life to those who were obli<»;ed to commit tlnnnselves into their lu? ids. The st>rvice on the ilaniic at this time would ha\'e better befitted tho , ' V can slave trade than the 128 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. carrj'ing of American citizens; the vessels were small, ill-appointed, often unseaworthy, half-manned, with- out order or discipline, and with little attention to comfort or safety. Exacting the money before the passenger went on board, all they could get out of him, shipowners somethnes performed part, some- times the whole of their contract, according to cir- cumstances. Indeed captains, seamen, pursers, waiters, stewards, hotel-keepers, boatmen, and railway officials, often appear to regard the wayfarer as an enemy, going from place to place to disturb honest folk like themselves, and whom to answer otherwise than in a contemptuous, surly manner were ^, ^1= jrace to the profession. A mistake had been coi. ted, the em- ployes of tlie California steamship com^ anies seemed to say, in not having had the passengers all put in irons before starting. Ear-ringed islanders, tattoed sailors, impudent negroes, and improved Irishmen, upon principle snubbed every one that came in their way, rich or poor, ignorant or learned, as infinitely beneath them. Jammed hito a purgatorial hole, there to remain in durance vile until the heaven of Califor- nia was opened to them, from the beginning to the end of the journey travellers were at the mercy of these vile, unprincipled persons. The rooms were often so close and filthy that occupants dreaded to go to bed at night, and in the morning dreaded to arise and encounter the social and atmospheric impurities of the day. Often the floors of ill-ventilated cabins were strewed with poor women, over whose faces was spread a deadly pallor, the little ones crawling round mothers too weak to move ; while in the steerage were sights so sickening "as would put to blush the most inhuman land-monster of feudal or any other times. In selling tickets little attention was paid to limita- tions In numbers by law; ships with a capacity for 500, would crowd in 1500, and often he who paid for a first class passage was thrust into the second cabin, and second cabin-passeng'Ts into the steerage. Every SOME TRAVELLING MAXIMS. niean artifice conceivAKi . ^^ tf fare would be exacted r«'''''\""' ''"'f fi"o.i, tlireat of separating „S„ , " ^"<"»PiyJ>orth, unde^ '"xury on board; but Xr L •^'?"^ '™^ "'« greatest I'assage „,o„ey Jt was sdd to tl ■"'= *''"« "^ »«00 at wenty-five' cents a S b ,1 ^t"^"''' '"""'""»y roa ity but a ba)f or qCt. 1 f ''" P""'"'^ ^''<"-e il. With parched tou.W?!' h, "'^ " P?""<1, an.l ma.n pay the price. The vovi ■^ "'?"''' '">' "'K'"! to With dreid, and undcrtig" 7 -f, '"f;«' '''"vard to one, at least at that Scsolecl '.f^''"'™'™- No Ploasuro trip. It wa L i o , if'" ■" ".'^y <« •■> Cahfornian's e.Mncrience l> ""V'""^* ^Pot w manv a "igl.tmare. If S" ?' """r'»'><='-«l to this day ^s a «- but left-llIXd S'i''^tr'""""''--''--"" •"tenfattes of those daw r^^H ""• "'* *'"' «*^-'"nor "'".. any through w S, tW 'P- '" '"S"'"' ^'"tter ,"«™r since tl,e world was w',,"''' '^'''' ^i'«<l, for justice to carriers and c^t ,"""' *" "^"'^d- In -Luittod that tra^eS^rs^ritititdr'^r"^' " "'"^t ' fr.volous co,nplaints, ofte'^v eK- t'a^tir"*'""-^ "'"' »ut tins does not warranf « 7 -^ ,. *"^'^^ I>atioiicc- f ";' ,«jsten,atie in u"ts " ucb "'''''"' "'"' ^' "tinie I ■ojl'less Calif„„,ia ;^2„tet %'T ''?!'«' "1'"" "diy, and in every wavT/,.* ^"'•'!,?n<iurt is ciw- W.I1 grun,ble and be^uSs™ ^M^l'^"'' "• travellers l-eoiters must expect tliis T f ' f"'',"" "'"' 'i"tcl- ;:.'";'•. that as aVuie rose CO ;r- ''""'''"'"«'■ ■"<>■■«- '■'gilt, should expect least u^''""' ","»*t, who, as .. ^''infortsatl,on,efindsZ„,n^"f ^';'' '»' "'" fcwost f..' s of tmvcl. In such ca eft, I '""' *''" *''""''- "'"k^the loudest nole wkh% "•"'"''''■"'' "^"»"^- «'«! unposition. To-day anlt'"'n 7'"' "f ''ardshi , gf-s are almost alwav^^tr™ !w '"^''-bel'aved passen- il'-rganized and aStXhe T""' "" '"""^^ ''"»' .|h<reare standard niaxim.i. "^"'.'^yance may be " -ould be well tr ,l'rt''",7ver, which 130 THE VOYAGE TO CAIJFORNIA. 1/ w comfort in travelling, then submit with resignation to all ordinary imi)08itions. Resign yourself at the out- set to the carrier as his victim, as the arbiter, for the time, of your fate. Do not expect land luxuries at sea ; man is a terrestrial and not an aqueous animal. Not the least in the catalogue of annoyances, fretful- ness, and complainings, the passengers bring upon them- selves. Go into the hot, fetid air of the second cabin and steerage, then be ashamed to nurse j'our discom- forts in your upper room. The smell of oil from the machinery, and filth from various quarters is nauseat- ing, it is true; but I have suffered more from the disgusting behavior of passengers than from filthy ships and discourteous employes. Nor do I mean to say that Californians are especially bad travellers; as a rule they were, even in early times, orderly, quiet, and well-behaved ; and when time had tempered their spirits, hilarity and good humor prevailed. Other- wise how should 1500 men, women, and children have been able to exist, crowded into close quarters for nearly a month, and much of the time under a tropical sun? Every sensible man then setting out for California well knew that he should have to rough it ; or, if he did not know it at the start he soon iound it out, and ho ^oon saw that he might as well begin to make the bciit of discomforts on ship board as any where else. Those so thinking yielded gracefully to what they saw was inevitable, and found that after all happiness does not depend so nmch on having things a little better than our neighbor, and that a little comfort, with a heart disposed to be contented, carries with it much happiness. Besides, all were certain of fortune, or at least felicity, the moment they reached San Francisco ; and so, in place of brooding over present privation.s, they rather dreamed of future plenty. There were notable exceptions to these systematic impositions, even on the Atlantic side; while on tlio JPacific, the rule was reversed. I have often been told ATLANTIC AXD PACIFIC SERVICE. by officers of the Pnf.i'fi„„ or more l.earti y c™dt,„ "1^?^ "'?' "o™" '^•^Mecl sorvice on the Pacific w^lf ,*^?"" tl>e first tl.e upon t),e Atlantic butTf .m'"'"^ """'rast to that ;^-e the n,a„age« of ?he "^*'' *%?*"■"■. of ,865 Company able to rid f?f„, . '^" ^^^ Steamshin which ^ited so long L'tr'T' •"■ *'«'* influence t us time the coutn.l „f H ^i^"" "» 'he line. At their hands, whe" t fe l^^.^^'r.'iue passed into -ere extended to trlveTloS o„"^h " A.f "''. <=<"'"'"^'^ hitherto been custon.ary on the P^i^*'""*'" «« had eomimny had frequentl/ove^o^lfi ;. -""^ ^"^ifie but this sometimes was an ac^ nf t l^"^" steamers, eruelty ; as, f«r exan.ple l*en tl ^rJ '^"'«'' than Panamd on her first vov^'th ^"'■^""'''' "-eachcd there; and this, togethTl-l <,f''"'?™ «"^ ragin., anxiety to «,a^i t,,f ^^^ "^h he often ill-advised stances drawn the last uLf ^°H '"''' 'u many in- congregated on th^ Is^rus "' * T 'T^''* "^ 'ho- «'!uch had aceomniodatiil for ''^* *''"' ^*'=''™er. ja'led with four times X/ i^' ^"^ P^engers SUOO was paid on t is tri^L""'"*''"'- ^' ^igg as Gradually the serv ice Tc" * 'T^' P^^ge- and yet more magnificent ^», P'^'^^ted. L^mer tune to time, with°p on ^Ide .?[' ""''^ '"'"' fr™' >"ie m length, and thei ,^e«> in »n " ?'^''".™* °f * oftcered. The line ro^ to tl^ i "PPointed and ably "'arme, and became an W tn *i '"^ °^ *''« "'orld^ J' rem this time until ti ° f'"= ^u'erican nati™ ■•aiHvay, it carried mo*^„ ""'"P'^tion of the Pac fie and, accordin.. to d^T P»^™gers, at fairer rat , ■•umbers wit^fetr dt"omi.„^i",f ^^ ?i ^"" "*« - ' ecoamc lino. F„ur, five and j".f''' ''™'' ''"other passed and repassed n WW "^ thousand people ^handise was ^ar^'ej Xh t.T '^^I^^^'' "'"f ""e^ "%'regated millions Tf doikr/^" t" *" ^^^ » ton, ■Jason why the passal o„ X W-^^ey. One '- P'easant is'that fhe^X^^T^: - ^--ade 132 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. water, more like floating hotels, more spacious and coniinodioua than those on the rougher Atlantic. When I reached New York, in February 1852, the rush for California still continued, though in a some- what modified form. A little regularity was emerging from the original chaos. The steamship office was not now mobbed the night before the advertised day for selling tickets, nor were sailing vessels despatched daily for Chagres, to empty their passengers hito that infectious climate, leaving them to complete their journey as best they might. For this, however, the ship owners were not to blame. So wild had been the excitement, so insane were men to get at this newly discovered gold, that thousands would recklessly take passage on any craft to Chagres, and trust their chances to get from Panamd to San Francisco. This they did knowing the berths on all the steamers were engaged for months to come, and that nmltitudcs were waiting passage, both at New York and Pananul ; but as it was every man for himself, each was sure that by some means, natural or suixirnatural, he would manage to get through. Before this, clamorous crowds used to collect in front of the ticket-office previous to the departure of every steamer, and there remain for days and nights, so as to be ready the mo- ment the door was opened. Sailing vessels were taken from the fishhig or freighting service, and fitted up with a temporary deck below, the space between which and the upper deck formed a dormitory and saloon. Round the sides of this between-decks were three or four tiers of open berths, and in the centre piles of luggage, passengers' stores, rough, hanging shelves for tables, and boxes and benches for chair.s, there being no such thing as caste among the passen- gers, or cabin, or separate apartments, save the cap- tain's room. And thus, like the boat of Charon, these vessels plied, and ere they landed their prurient THE DRPARTURE > the grotesque, i„ tl," embarki,T'""r "" ""'« J'usband and wife cl i n? ^ '^''^;'' «'«*^r and br«t 'r ft'tntic en.braeo as if if Y\^'^<'h other in vet ,. ' -lo for the an,usemo^^t;^-''"^^^^^ ^"^ '-^ « - - '^ t, to say nothing, of turni.t . ''"^'^^^'^ «»^' i'^iiibr- '".i.^ from one to n./^i " ^^' ""* »'>t of ft ru ■•''•"■■••"t-an pltS" ■^';" ?«<""l't "read "I" „„„, -;d Who re»a,„, „„d ehe So^^nr/rt n, yvts do not aocomnnn.r +i ^ ^ «»>', and 134 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. i starcr, while the young husband beside her tries in vain to appear as if used to it. There is the lean and hungry, most bland and voluble lawyer, with long hooked nose and bald head, with sword cane and con- cealed deringer ; and there the hard headed and hard- hearted politician, who deals in the patriotism of the American people as the pawnbroker deals in the sufferings of the poor. This political huckster, hav- ing had in his tune a monopoly of certain souls in certain districts, but having meanwhile sold his own soul to Satan many times on one side of the conti- nent, now seeks a new market on the other. There is the little scrawny avaricious old woman, probably tlie most disgusting, at the same time the most piti- able object on board, going out solitary and alone to wash or nurse or otherwise work and hoard, if per- adventure she may scrape together a little gold be- fore she dies. There is a family, father, mother, and daughter, the latter of that silly simpei'ing age which fancies the eyes of all the world to be perpetually resting on herself; there the man of business with two females in charge, bustling about under his load of responsibility ; there the sleepy young man, there the Jack-a-daisical young woman — slieepamong wolves — and there one, ill-mannered and awkward, fresh from clod-breaking and swinc-tending, yet whose even flash intelligence and whose broad brow and firm lij) sliow fifty years of determined perseverance and self- denial, if so be so much should stand between him and success. Noah's ark presented no more incongi ous gather- ing. More than thirty different nations are repre- sented on this deck ; men and women of almost every land in Christendom and many beyond that line, of divers colors and strange speech, the lank smart Yan- kee, always at home; the tall bony hairy western man, uncultured yet thoughtful, who comes so far cast to get a start for a farther west; cattle drivers from the nor>*:li and negro drivers from the south ; QUALITY OP PASSENGERS. Texan ™.gers an7'ptt7t'" •'^'' "««-»-&" occupation j;o„e; pom^o^rportf^^RT"'''*"'^ '"" ^^''onnng, polite Frenclunen •^3.-^"*?"" '' ^'"'^^tic, t-crmans; fi„ry Castilia , ), ^J '"""^'""l^rturl'aUe »««roos, mul^ttoer and ' .Trr™'' ^'.'-" J"v ! ovory shade uniting In tlieir^vah, ^J-' V."''""'-os of teut,„u3 disposition all the evn ' f "?*».''»» «'«! pre. costry with few inherited IT '^i-""'"' ^iverae an- J»o,.ity of costu'^e ' and'lt T''""'; ^"^^ «""' Broadway dandy with t ,,!,* / ,'^'""ito>ianco— the ""t; the western huntt^i^|.'' f'f ^""f > ""d tall dress, and the loose butX^'sll-,/''' ,'"'''-''" '«"«I- tl.e boat,„a„., pea-jacket ««/„""■;' "",'' «''^''«J boots; can's blanket and so,n?L! ""r wester; the Mevi- -onted with pist>iTtwi::i:;;l!'' ^'f'T'y "'™- fiojn belt and shoulder. He„ i. ' "'"^ '.'"'•"^ «'"'« a"<J bayonet, and yondir an an„l 1""" "''"' "">«kJt con.pany organized for fiXT'f ' ''"^'^'"^ "^ «"»'o ■•ann trumpet tied to hist^k'^ i"^«°'''., with »" "•■cs you ,„ay read of wit a,t^ f"f "] *«''• &«*- '»«;nn,e„t and of gray t^of ,^1 ^ ""l^y '"■'>''>». of ;: honesty ,„dofyeS;t^f,r'^-f of b^^^^ ^'^ui tile scene with fh^^.V i , ""^^^^y «nicers en. -'.'' faces S^lowing tnder th^tfl'^""™-'! uniform , tbuigs of life. ' ""' *"■= ii'Huence of the good ';"^^i^ wife, alone in t]^t nl^T ''''' '^'^^'^' "^ newi; ^Just of distance yet unL / ! ^^ "T^'^'^'y ^i«">"t thi -'^i cheeks blanS a^d h S T'',? ^^"^ "^^^^-t f untned waters and t ds 1'^^^ " ^^ ^^""^'^^^^ tiieni from loved ones, perha ' I ^"'^ *^ '^I^^^-'-^^^ '-"--wthei;f-;-r„:x;r:L»ir::;t:f 13G THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. the soil of America or Australia, so that their dorni- uaiit passion finds solace. Thus the conglomerate and cosmopolitan character of the passengers give us a foresight of what we may expect on reaching our destination. As the hour for departure approaches the confusion increases. Loaded carriages drive hastily up to the gang way, discharge their contents, and drive away, The mails come down in heavy wagons and are taken on hoard. Excited passengers rush hither and thither, knocking against one another, looking after lost baggage, hunting missing friends and searching for their rooms. The wharves and shipping are crowded to see us off. The cries of seamen and porters mingle with the hoarse roar of steam; the gong sounds for visitors to go ashore, hasty "good- byes " and " God bless you " rise from full hearts and fall from quivering lips; the captain mounts the paddle-box, the gang-plank is drawn ashore, orders to "cast off the hawser " and " turn ahead " are given, the ponderous walking-beam moves, the paddle-wheels turn, and promptly at twelve o clock, midst the cheers of the gathered nmltitude, the waving of hats and handkerchiefs, and the flashing of fun and fancy and sentiment from upturned laughing and liquid faces, the ship creeps from her berth, turns her back upon the land hallowed by all the ties of birth and educa- tion, and with her gun booming the last parting, glides down the stream, winds through the forest of shipping, past islands and grassy slopes beaming with happy homes, and shoots out hito the ocean toward that future of mystery and trembling expectation which assumes shapes so fantastic in the minds of those on board. On our way down the bay, tickets were examined in order to detect stowaways; three aspiring but impecunious unfortunates were taken in custody and shoved into the boat with the pilot when he left the r AT SEA. W steamer at Sandy H™,k n„ ■■enmrncd hidden unfil next d» ■ '° ^''"^''era an .' Wearanco he was sot to work^^^"' '",' '"^kin,. h s '"3 passage, Fonr„tt„„ i- '" ""o eoa] hunker^ f "■ere sent baekTv f^" 'I'V «'"' f»rewell W,!'' »•"• ^'.ii. struck X u,i'''f' *''™ ^'"l- Ti a, a™: waves of the Atlantic. ' " '"-'' <=""«« ""-oush the "list as We \v<»rr> unjjht prospects, glad to be nfP„ . *^'-' "'«l'in«ti<m ,:f V'nturc; on the other mfn, i'' '"'«^'' *» niake the «'»io with ruined hellthi''^ '"^"^"^^ "n" Mure 7- on na !';" r^i,!^^ '^'1 t '^'"8 f-* o^ <>r the wild( ^ ^t, 9, " »^o be back h^ k ; 'fought f,t,:|''S^^ta,»rt and smollffl talked of the time to eon^ "^ ' w^'-'f!, S^upea and «» insidious and subtle i„fl "'''-' *'"'s abstracted "Pou the voyagere TK "^''."•^« appeared toS^f ™i;-gnated^vith"t,S^t'uidT^',"';? *° "" 'rum tile water throu<.h th? i r"' '' <^reenin,r „„ the pianks on which It j ^'"P^ '""'>ers, throm"? a^ fl ^^P^^'^^' and we were « "^^."^ ^"'^ ^ay- and the ocean. ^^'^^ ^^one with darkne^^ , ^f Jit shut us in wifl. f osed us round witi w7v ^"^''•^ storm-clouds «r..l 188 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. OU3 wheels that beat them into foam, wheels striving \\'ith the contending flood, on one side deep in water and on the other vainly grasping at the rushing tide below. The jcrkhigs now and then of the ship betokened a rising sea. Ciijars and sentiment were abandoned, for here was the beginning of a long unrest. Neither sighings, nor the quickening heart-beat of hope, neither the memories of loved ones left behind, nor the brilliant aspirations of the future, nor even the solonm thought of thus being brought into the more immediate presence of my maker could prevent the rising within my bosom of sensations foreign to meditation. I tried to appear indifferent ; as the evil increased I attempted even to smile, but it was a ghastly business. As the wind grew boisterous, and the motion of the vessel more palpably uneven, all on board, sav e the favored few who had neither conscience nor stomach, souffht retirement. Some thouijht to brave down the unbidden rising within by moving briskly about and nibbling a cracker instead of eating supper and going to bed. "You can walk it off," they said, "do not give up to it." I noticed, now and then, that these would suddenly disappear, and when next seen i:i their dotcrmhied perambulations, they looked paler and not altogether happy. Some sat down to table and with affected nonchalance and flourish of knife and fork ,and pronounced orders for food, courageously began to eat; but soon a cloud overspread their fjatures, a careworn expression as of some internal trouble, until at last sickness overct)ming sensitive- ness, one person after another would rise hastily from tlie table, clasp one hand on his mouth and the other on his waistcoat, dart for the door, make for the guards, and there unbosom his burdened breast to the fislies. Indeed, my own food was as restless within me as was Poseidon in the bowels of his father Cnmos. Few remained on deck that night to witness the ■ SEA-SICKNESS. 139 Ithe glories of the setting sun ; the stars were sought be- low, the via lactea streamed over the ship's sides, and tlie study of Neptune's palace under the sea appeared far more fascinating than the study of Orion and the Pleiades. Sea-sickness is a great leveller. It prostrates pride, purges man of his conceit, makes him humble as a little child; it is specially conducive to repentance and after repentance to resignation. I know of nothing, after the first fear of death has passed away, that makes one so ready to die. A great wave places its back under the ship and lifts you up, up, hito the very clouds ; then it stands from under and you go down, down, with a tickling sensation within, until you stop your breath waiting for the vessel to strike upon the bottom of the sea. Then comes a mhigled pitching and rolling, when the innermost loses cohesion, oscil- lates, rotates and upheaves, when the foundations of the great deep are broken up within you, when the strong man bows himself as it were a woman grinding at a mill, and the mourners go about the cabin like apocal^'ptic angels, wailing as they pour their vials out ; and by this unrest and the revels of devils with- in, the image of God is degraded into that of a self- acting hydraulic pump. The mind becomes concerned, tlic brow overcast; it is like clapping on the head a hope-extinguisher, Jind squeezing the body at once of every rest and comfort flesh aspiros to ; as if the iimer lining of the man were rolled up and wrung out down to the very dregs of gall and bittenu'ss. Then the body assumes a doubling posture, the s|)inal colunm becomes flaccid and linipy, the victim is filled with a desire to sink to the floor or lie prostrate; nuinliood oozes out at the fingers' ends, and Cuisar becomes like a sick girl. And all the while those who escape these miseries regard this agony as ludicrous in the extreme. It is a capital joke to see the 8tn>ng man brought low, to hear him swear and storm at every thing and every THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. body with impotent fury in the intervals between his retching fits ; to see the pale despairing women strewed about the cabin, on carpet, chairs and sofas, attended by the stewardess with her gruel bowls, and fizzing powders, and lemons, and toast and tea ; to hear all day the groans and moans and gurgling laments in every quarter, to have the night made hideous by the loud alarms of bowel- wrench ings and belchinos that might awaken the seven sleepers; and then to see the tables deserted and the quandary of those who try to determine which is least difficult, to keep in bed, to dress, or to eat — all this is very amusing to those happy souls who pet and plume themselves because they are not subject to such horrible sensations, or compelled to assist at such unpleasing scenes. This rocking sensation has somethingr strange in it ; it affects different persons so differently. Some it drives well-nigh mad, with sensations akin to those of the novice in gambling who loses his last half-dollar at monte, giving its victim, if not death, resignation to it ; others it sends off into peaceful and long con- tinued sleep bestowing rest and contentment ; others not only are not sea-sick but are made hilarious by it. These latter, as they pass from room to room and see the wan, woe-begotten faces of the vomiters, become extremely satisfied with themselves. " Oh 1 no, I am never sick," says Jenkins, "I like it, it agrees with me; I really enjoy it, my appetite is never better than when it is a little breezy ; only one other beside the captain and myself at the table; roast du".k, tough as ox-hide " — and so he rattled his nauseous boasts to the infinite disgust of prostrate listeners. And as in the sensitive breast there is usually a sense of weakness and shame attending this evil, so it is held by a certain class a cardinal virtue to escape it. Noth- ing so inspires a man with a good opinion of himself and his internal belongings as to be able to smoke and whistle and carry an undaunted front when the heads of his comrades are horizontally inclined, and their THE BILLOWY SEA. 141 bosoms heaving with the heaving sea ; or when they are seized with a sudden interest in the study of ich- thyology, and strain their eyes in untimely peering into the troubled waters. It makes a man glad to see his companions sea-sick ; it makes him rejoice in his superiority, to delight in their woe; he laughs that he is better than they. Then the shame of it to the miserables who suffer. Of all who remained cab- ined and berthed for the two days succeeding our de- parture, few could be found who had been sea-sick at all. Some had had a headache, others were fatigued and needed rest ; some were not hungry, and then it was too much trouble to dress. Of all maladies, the one for which its victims are least to blame, they ap- pear the most ashamed of, while colds and fevers i3rought on by foolish indiscretions are unblushingly acknowledged. Many have made sea- voyages who suffered severel j' at first, but afterward very little ; although they could still be seasick in rough weather, they knew better how to take care of themselves. There appears to be no universal remedy for this hateful and hated nausea; some find relief in iced champagne, others in brandy, soda-water, tea, gruel, codfish, or fruit. Much depends upon the state of the system, and no two are to be treated exactly alike. In some individual cases, the secret is to find that place and po- sition where one can be most at rest. Few ever suc- ceed in combating the evil, being always forced to yield vanquished. Hence it is on going to sea, the first thing to do is to arrange one's room and effects sotliat one may be prepared for it ; as a certain nobleman used deliberately to make ready his bed before getting drunk. On this steamer my berth was near the hatchway, and at times the sun poured in upon me the full volume of his rays, which with the motion of the ship, long fasting, and a compound of villainous smells ranker than Falstatf found in Mrs Ford s linen, niado me almost wild with fever and suffocation. 142 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. Then, with Gonzalo, would I have given a thousand furlongs of sea for an acre of barren ground. I would have given my chance of heaven, to say nothing of California, to have been out of it, anywhere but there. This is why middle-aged and elderly men endure the hardships of a voyage to California better than young men and boys, their physique is more fixed, their minds more evenly balanced, and they know better how to make themselves comfortable. My father informs me that on his passage from Panamh,, many young men died of the Isthmus fever, but not a single person over forty years of age was ill with any disease. The next day the sea was higher, but the morning after it was evidently growing quieter. Following the throes of sickness comes a mental exaltation, giv- ing birth to new thoughts. Never have I felt my brain so active as while lying bracing myself in my berth for days, until my bones ached, and during which time I would be up only long enough to rush to the table for my meals, and rush back again to keep the uneasy food quiet. Thus dull intellects are whetted into keenness by the asperities of the journey, and so made ready to cut their way through the difficulties awaiting them. Moreover, this malady is the best cure in the world for love-sickness, as I have noticed in the pensive youth who had left his inamorata be- hind, and in solitary young women going to Califor- nia to be married. Indeed, upon the homoepathic hypothesis that similia simiUhns curantur, this malady is likewise an antidote for bankruptcy, conjugal infi- delity, or any ill flesh is heir too. The heart and the stomach cannot both exercise the mastery at the same time. Overwhelmed at the beginning of the voyage with the merciless fate that crucified all fond endear- ments, and indifferent to terrestrial affairs; as the rising wind grows stronger, and the rolling waves mount higher, slowly the dominator lifts passion from the seat of the affections, and places it just below, where it plays havoc with the organs of supply. PASSENGER ROUTINE. ^5^.?^^-s±fr:?--/-;: 'ere fancy " shf „ "t .''^ ''"■<^«' of )"■■'• will an-j take it for /ra^?ed T'"^' "'"' «>« otheCsiek the hdy went to sea W)" 4.°"' ^"^ "■" Aftei^vard small voice within 1170. • f ™' whether the still never aftenvai 1 di/!?, T"*' «'>e did not sa • but -a-sicknoss could be btXr' " '"''-*' 'ttt ■'^t ]ast the PfrrittTr • Pa e, gaunt forma crawlilf t '?S,?" dissolution ordered rooms and eyleac T""^ ^'^^'^ a'"! di"- as hey first attempt ^o use th.' T' /'"^Sering about and rail ngs, finally settlhl? d ™ ?1' ^'■'"'P"'g I'ost" ■n ';'gi.:back easyrchars Sid nTV" '?"=""' I™'"?"'' of feeding arise • Bn-ToTv °" l-enches. Thc...^l,(= ^^ble fill ^p. ^|(fitr;'tu™^T^ ^'"";^' and sS a degre^e of amiability ThT "1 •?"*'*" ""»es soine eheerful look as tlL 2uJ^'^"i faces put o "a n;anifcstii,„ their coTyatSfeT ''°'''' the' female^ ll^';'--, odete, and in theTresse^Vtr •™'' .""«'-^^t "-'nder these auspices if „„t ^ ' their neiVJibori go«i conduct pre™[ls ""* ^"""""y- «t least |™e5 *';H wrh1:^i-^,P-f^^ begin. Taki„,y„„ of the purser, the civil cnnL 1 '^'"'"'' t" the , ffice "ays a civil man tou '"" "'a"dant, though not al "-hose number deL.Cte' ™ '"' '* " "''^'« eheck Notables and favofi'es '^1 ''f '''"• "'^ vo'a'e tat'^fterrrrbtr^^^^^^^^ :^ them.'%3idXtr': ^r'-feio" • managed upon the mo^t dem ''^Pta'" » table, all is table is usuLuy ilj JZlfZJ'^^"' P''""^¥<s. The always. Table ticket's'^^.tti """'•/''"""'' ""t t" en to prevent a scramble 141 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. for place, which, before the seats are allotted, some- times rises to a downrisrht fijjht whenever the bell rings. I never saw the Darwinian theory more aptly illustrated than before these table tickets were given out ; in a voyage to California, the survival of the fit- test was a foregone conclusion. At meal time partic- ularly the animal was let loose ; the strong prevailed, and <jbtained a seat at table, while the weak, or such as did not choose to exercise their strength if they had it, waited, and took what was left. As the strong man fed, he lapsed into a state of semi-unconsciousness ; his manners were unstudied, and his abandon perfect. He could sweep the dishes of their contents, far as the arm could reach, quicker than a prairie fire sweeps the ground of grass. The movements of a starved dog over the cat's saucer of milk were slow as compared with his movements. He appeared wholly unaware of the presence of women and children who likewise were hungry for food, thoujjh I have seen females who could fiy:ht for their survival with the best of the men. When his hunger was satisfied, he came to himself, gazed wistfully about, picked his teeth with his pocket-knife, and slowly retired. Steamers for the Californian passenger trade were usually built with three or four decks ; they were at this time all side-wheel and carried small masts. Sails were sometimes spread, though little depended upon them in navigating the ship. The larger ves- sels employed from seventy-five to one hundred men, officers, seamen, and servants. Of all the employes the firemen were the greatest suiferers ; working be- fore a hot furnace down in the hold, they were fre- quently so overcome of heat that they had to be packed in ice to cool them off. On the upper deck, above the ship's hull, was a double row of state-rooms, with ample space between them and the guards for sittinjx and walking, and for the manaojement of the ship. On this deck, forward, were also the pilot- coNSKircTroN op ship. ^ouse. and the r ^'^^ "«« were ap e^ -,^1^ ""' ''^^''' ^"-^ and ir» '" oarcb^:^ e" tlfe";'f, ^'o™' "^"d also flT*-^ '>""" loom, the l,»;i ™ "ffi<:ers' romn« «l' ^° *ere {,'alle; Bett'':f'?»P. bar, buteherTU " ""S'^^er's atr^£e\ ^^^'^^ZtP^^^ •'ftbe Seal. ' ''i^"' "f f'e sS thi^?'"'*^"" ''ad »f the S.?i •"• "'«r took the r ;,;,? ^"'^ ^ *ose passe„,?e;'™b ^"""g before or aZti" i''" ^'"''" ^« .>'as usually ,S'f ^ ""S'^'x^or adoct I'^i Notice wa<s r.«„*; "Either competonf ». ^^wr, but ^^ickens, turkevfi ^«"iesin -.»V.r„n^^-^-e, duck, eheep, swine, and 146 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORXIA, cattle were carried on board, and butchered as re- quired. Meals were kept going in the saloon nearly all the time, as when the ship was crowded three or four tables were set for each meal, so that breakfast crowded on luncheon, and luncheon on dinner. On tliis trip there were nine tables in all, but I have fre- quentl}'^ seen the tables all laid twelve times each day. The steerage passengers were treated more like beasts than human beings; to the shipowners they were but so much freight, to be carried at so much a head. Their sufferings, and whether they lived or died, were matters oi' their own. They were bedded like swine, and fed like swine. Instead of a trough, a broad, board shelf was suspended from the ceiling, which served as a table, greasy and clothless, furnished wltli tin plates and cups, and pewter spoons, and on which were placed huge pans or kettles of food, stews, beans, and the like. Droves, one after another, were let in thr<jugh a gate, and after they had fed a while they were driven out by their sooty overseers. Out of the regions of ice and snow, out of boist t- ous waves and cold stinging air, we pass Cape Hat- teras, and dropping down the Florida coast and across the gulf stream, sail into an unruffled sea, into the soft, southern, aromatic air, down into the seaweeds, and through the haunts of nautilus, and flying fish, which in their attempts to scale the ship often drop upon the deck; down among the ever-green isles where were enacted the initial tragedies of Ameri- can race-extermination. Spring succeeds winter and summer spring. The polestar pales behind us. The air first softens, then grows languid, and finally pul- sates with heat. Flannels and heavy clothing are laid aside ; clean calico dresses and summer bonnets take the place of woolen gowns and hoods, and the experi- enced male travellers sport their white pantaloons, linen coats, and straw hats. Out under a burning sun, and into hot sea-breezes, and from shivering in «>'VN mro THE TROWC& ^urs and over^nn^^ W oner<.y wifi *^'^'T^ves about tht J ^ ^^'^'^ ^^f^ins "J'in; m.-n.l „ , "^ern frosts arp .n u , ^o'^Jiern "nnui steal ov° r Z , ""^ ^^'^''"n k ;,-,* ' 7"" ? "'^■■■y IH.ro an.l stand/- "'"^ ' P'^'^Pi'^ «'« 1%'''"' •^■"■p, np fl,„^, ^g. ?'«'s ,, gr,,at beads uLuT " rfiaracter. *"<' """"t the true STnf ,',""■" f oloss toV to ouT l^r "Sers are verv „„• . • iinc. wave 'r!'"''?* °" b'«rd B ,' *''f ™«'<"l teL. « ).el«rah,"!''"'^*''<'™fce"ftheer''"'? "'« '"■'^t- lerth nr ""oets, some restlos>i fi.li . "etwoon the "">'>th,Zl,r'"'r"' '""•«>• jaw a„h ""*'•• At cursed ih^,» i '^"en those of ^i • 'i'^"' wie beef Here :»S e^lr""^' "'^'"■"« us THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. l^ tlic ship. Rushing in where angels fear to tread, into the august presence of omnipotence itself, he boldly addresses the Thunderer, the captain of the craft, who if he happens to be occupied gives in return a dciep-toned curse and a shove which sends the appli- cant headlong elsewhere for information. Nothing daunted, but a little more wary in the future, before he leaves the ship he knows the difference between bow and stern, and lee and wcatherside, learns to count time by the bells, and to play seven-up for the drinks. I noticed, after we were fairly out at sea, a certain habitual sarcastic expression on the face of many, particularly those of the ruder sort, as if the wearer wished to cover his sense of inferiority. Such are tlie men, who, seasoned by experience, and having in reality gained a better opinion of themselves, but making less show of it, on their return from California fall victims to professional pickpockets, who regularly plied their trade between New York and Aspinwall, endeavoring to win the confidence of returning Cali- fornians so as to fleece them on going ashore. Some there were on this trip out who had been to California before, men of slow demeanor, with slouched hat and slouched gait, of free and easy speech, and comfortable carriage, and self-satisfied countenance, red-shirted, perhaps, as they were proud of the distinction, and these wfere looked up to as superior beings by all raw recruits. Some sat the livelong day gazing list- lessly on the water, or staring stupidly at their fel- lows ; others restlessly wandered about with a sharp anxious inquiring look; some set themselves up as sailors and talked knowingly of ships, others discussed politics, religion, and monetary affairs, and many had much to say of the land and people to which they were going. Among them you might readily point out the chronic talker, the chronic listener, and the chronic laugher, which latter with his asinine guffaw at every silly repartee was the most disgusting of all. 'M ■} ii \, ■ STEAMSHIP LIFE. ■SU'^i^fti" ? "'ff je^ ^^' ''^' v^: < "ty. felt that il''^^"''«olf to be ?„ {? *'''' ""'»- "i'l't thing rL7'J°'»S the faajtif«P>th "f Stoaiiishin JjY ' ''"'ineas bt tS :i'^--K-s, tl..^ tZl^ «"m.- "OSS and chnmirj?. ^"«'aljfanL'rf.n» I '■'"""'■e hf^^tvveon Ln.'" '''sten.ner ffi ™''' '"s^ morose- ™yarrrr'^''''d dullness fe '\'' ''•f^^'^nc,: "vx.n.o,n/oS„r"''^r P'-'-»n need " ''''•^' "««'' '^ rati, some ThU^f^'^- ^"">^ «tudv s„ "'"I'' ''""''I ''»ck-gamm.«, , "''"'<'• '"'h'X or s^^uff"""*''. some ""dn^tafew^i^"', -rite '"'te^ 0"'^' <'^«-' or "''o whose Wn "^ *"> ^"vacre is 1,1 >'' * J°«™al, ".deal is :,-ofcr r^ W^un , l S"f,P°Hunit,. '""o has ended l ^l"^^'" "^ GauJ 1^7 *''" "'■™nie f those :hot;ttr^"n'« '» '»- l: '1^ ••" """"ont Which t u'' ,«'"-onometcrL*;r'^'">««»; '""•"te'' sta'g^,*'""^ ''"■ng their a„ge, t^r"'*' ^"unle mo,r if "'s' -nere and f h«« ^ ^° *"e an- ''- 'houX'tirr '"^^ '■" «-h s t!T'^ "'-"id f«nark and li- .'*'"'" «""nd her w«ti-",^<'«'J "Pon ^-odo-nwhonoWS^-f^-V 150 THE VOYAGK TO CALIFORNIA. tlieir hate, and manifest no more delicacy in disclosing their mutual infelicities. Home-sickness, oftener felt than spoken, sometimes overtakes unfled<^cd wanderers. On this voyage, just as we were passing the Bahama islands, one man was so overcome that he could not repress his tears as he begged the captain to put him on board the first returning ship. •' I acted hastily," he cried, " I did wrong in leaving wife and children. But I will make amends; let me return and work for them till I die." In time, this man, who was a poor me- chanic, became reconciled; but I could not help think- ing how many hearts had throbbed well-nigh to bursting with secret regrets. The fifth day out was Sunday, when the Episcopal service was read by the purser. Sabbath is never Sabbath again after spending one on a California steamer. The sacred charm is broken, the hallowed influence of the day forever gone, placed among the tilings that were, only to be called up in the mcmor}', and pondered over, and wondered at. Here Sunday is nmch like other days ; there is little to remind one of the deep celestial quiet of the home Sabbath. There was a little less card-playing and novel read- ing ; now and then a bible or a prayer-book might be seen, and sacred hynms supplied the place of negro melodies. But home pictures would appear painted on the imagination deeper and stronger than on other days. Evening songs fell on hearts tuned to the old familiar strains, sending tears to the eyes of many a listener. Many there were in body rocked on tlic Atlantic that in spirit were back by the old fireside. The Loud laugh fell on the ear, but the heart heard only the chiming of the village bells ; the merry jest wei)t round, but ere it fell it turned to a precept pro- nounced by the familiar voice from the old churcli pulpit; the rippling of water was but the murmurs of mother and brother talking of the absent one. Con- science draws fine lines sometimes ; there was one man who would not take a hand at cards because it was HABANA. 151 Sunday, but he did not mind risking a dollar on the game. Came in sight late that niglit, or, ratlicr early tlio nc xt morning, the fair island of Cuba. I dressed my- self and went out. It was a magnificent moonliglit night and the sea was smooth as glass. There was a soft troj)ical haze in the atmosphere, and as, on our approach, the mountains of the interior assumed form, and the green hills, and white beach, and coral reefs — almost buried in foliage-— the waving palms of the hill-toi)S and the orange groves nestling in quiet val- leys were more plainly distinguished, the view pre- sented was ravisliJiu' in the extreme. Arrived off Habana an hour before daylight, we came to a stoj) and lay too under the guns of the Moro Castle, where we were obliged to wait until sunrise before entering the harbor, such being the rule. Then, just as the sun lifted its warm tints above the horizon, scattering the sky -painted imagery that forecast the dawn, we turned round the daik bluff, under the frowning battle- ments of the fortress, ij;un answering gun in courteous salute, while far ovci tJu. sea swept the morning nmsic fi\)m the fort, like blasts of the archangel sounding the opening of a new world. As we slowly steamed up the chaniiel, on tlie right of which lay the city, with its terraced houses of many colors, blue, yellow, and red, its quaint cathedral ])iles and glittering sjurcs, our course was arrested by pompous health and cus- toms officers, wlu), after performing their duties to their dignified satlsfacti<m, allowed us to proceed. We soon came to anchor before the city, and the passengers were permitted to land. Pygmalion's statue was no more lost in won- derment than was I. To my inexperienced gaze all was as marvelous as if I had been lifted from another world and put down upon this spot. There was the voluptuous morning sun rolling in an aerial sea of crimson flanked by silver-burnished clouds ; the wanton air pla}ing with the feathered palms, and breathing 152 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. tlie perfumed incense of orange groves ; and here a wonderful city glittering beside a glassy sea, a city famous for its cigars, its fountains, its magnificent opera house and mosaic mirrored counting house, its narrow streets and broad shaded carriage-way and Isabel Segunde promenade, its grand plaza, cafes and brilliant gas lights, its moonlight music, and gay military officers, and dark-eyed senoritas, and its two- wheeled volantes — the hansom cab of London and the gondola of Venice — drawn by a small, scrawny horse, harnessed to the ends of tM'o long poles ten feet and over from the vehicle. The tail of the ani- mal is braided so as to leave it at the mercy of tor- menting flies, and besides drawing the gig with its freiglit of fat Cubans or fair senoritas, the poor beast must carry a driver with large jingling spurs and heavy club. If iii.<re than one beast is attached to a volante, the horses are usually driven tandem. To the the bishop's garden, the pofiular drive, most of our passengers went for the day — past villas and chateaus buried in blooming foliage, through avenues bordered by hedges of roses, and shaded by orange-trees bending beneath their golden fruit. At night wo listened to the band playing in the plaza, and watched the half-veiled senoritas, and sombre looking men and smoking women and naked boys, moving noisily about beneath the shrubbery and under the glowing moon which, mirrored on the glassy water of the harbor, made it shine like a sea of silver. Siempre fiel isla de Cuba; la'loya mas brilliante en la carona d' Espana — heaven be with thee, as thou in my youthful fancy appeared almost like heaven. The passengers, baggage, mails, and freight of the George Law were here transferred to the steamer Georgia, and day and evening were consumed in the operation. At length, worn out by unaccustomed fatigue, tired even of a tropical paradise, we shoul- dered a quantity of cigars which we had purchased KINGSTON. 158 and went on board — settling the export duties, under direction of the seller, by givhig a half dollar to the official stationed on board, who pocketed it amidst vehemently gesticulated protestations, which I took to be a sort of mock battle between conscience and duty ; or it may be he deemed the bribe insufficient to satisfy virtue so august. Leaving him to reconcile matters as best he might I hurried to bed, and wlien I awoke in the morning the lovely isle had vanished like a dream, and we were far on our way toward Jamaica, that is to say, the Land of Wood and Water. Kingston, where we touched for coals, should be the black man's paradise. A negro pilot pretended to guide our vessel into the harbor, a negro })ort- master pompously manipulated the mails, black shop- keepers importuned passers by, black hackmen clamored for a fare, black prostitutes smiled for cus- tomers, black fruit-vendeis and parrot-sellers crowded tlie avenues leading from the wharf, dashinij: black dandies flourished their white-headed canes, squads of olack sokliers swelled hi the Britisher's red coat, the regimental band which played in the park was con>- puscfl of some fifty fine performers — black ; black women, about fifty in number, some of them young girls, did the coaling, carrying on their heads a tub or lialf barrel holding sixty pounds of coals, marohii»g up and down the gang-plank with ease and alacrity, jiccompanying their ap[>arently laborious duty with loud laughter, song, and dancing, while the men sat l)y and smoked and smiled approval. Swarms of polished ebony bipeds, male and female, perambulated the streets, smoking their long cigars, and fomiliarly (lacking their rude jokes with the passengers. Kace <listinctioQ, if there be any but such as is merely phy- sical, seems to be here reversed, the white man, as a <lass, occupying about tlie position of the black man ill other parts. Literally, a white man here is as 164 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. good as a black one so long as he behaves himself. Colored freeholders received the elective franchise as early as 1830; after 1838 they could sit in the local legislature, by which qualification 1853 saw one black man in the council and fifteen in the assembly. Judg- ing from the muscle on arm and leg, and the loads the women carry on their heads, this West India climate agrees with the African. Putting to sea, in three days thereafter we an- chored before the ruins of the old fort of San Lo- renzo conunanding the entrance to Chagres river. CHAPTER VII. THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA,— ISTHMUS OF PANAMi. What deein'd tliey of the future or the past t The pretient, like a tyrant, held them fast. — Byrotu The isthmus of Panamd, or, as it was anciently called, Darien, must ever coininand the interest of the civilized world. Aside from the charm which history tlirows over this region, as the bar which baffled the last attempt of the great admiral to find a passage to India, as the point where were planted the first perma- nent Spanish settlements on the North American conti- nent, as the window of the bi-continental Cordilleras wliich, opened by the hand of Vasco Nuiicz de Balboa, lot in from the great South Sea a flood of light illumi- nating well nigh to blindness all Europe, as the initial point to many a marauding expedition, as the scene of divers piratical attacks, and local revolutions, — I say aside from historic associations, this narrow strip of earth must ever be rcijardod with attention bv all tlie nations of the world, presenting, as it does, the smallest impediment to inter-oceanic communication and an uninterrupted patliM'ay from Europe to Asia, saiUng to the westward. Said Walter llaleigh to Klizal)eth, "Seize the isthmus of Darien, and y<ui will wrest the keys of the world from Spain." Here tlie continent was first spanned by iron, and here is being duj^ the first inter-oeeanlc canal. At the beginning of the new traffic arislnj; from tlie discovery of gold in California, thi; natives of the Isthmus were civil, inoffensive, and obliging. This (155) 156 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. state of tilings was quickly changed, however. It was a new experience for tlieni, this contact with Anglo- Americans of the ruder sort, strong, shrewd, and overbearing, too often impudent and insulting, too many of them unprincipled, with a sprinkling of unmitigated rascality. The mild and ignorant tropi- cal man shrank from them at first, then grew sullen and suspicious, and finally fell to cheating in return, though never able in this last accomplishment to equal his bright exemplar. Two pilgrims landing at Chagres from the steam- ship Isthmus, in January 1849, the Quaker City then lying in the harbor, hired bongos for themselves and baggage, proceeded up the river to the head of navi- gation, then transferred their belongings to the backs of mules, riding one between them, alternately, and so proceeded to Pananid. This was then tl e usual way. The steamer California was there, having just come round Cape Horn, and having on board some sixty passengers from Valparaiso. There was quite a panic among the travellers, sev- eral thousands of wlu^m were collected there, waiting f;»r an opportunity to proceed to San Francisco by any conveyance whatever. There was much inqjrudence anion ,»• them. The excessive use of intoxicating ]i(juors, eating tropical fruits to which they were unaccustomed, .and heavy rainfalls, contributed to develop sickness among them. It was difiicult to obtain accomnioda- tlons; people were crowded, and many died from cholera and fever. Many of the persons on the Isth- mus at the time had tickets only to that point, and tickets from there to San Francisco, for deck passage, were sold as high as six hundred dollars. The steam- ers could not furnish accommodations for so many pi^rsons. The steamship company allowed a certain number of tickets to be drawn, but there was imuli trickery in this. In order that there mi'jlit be fair play, some of the outsiders were called in; but gam- blers and other improper persons having been selected. ON THE ISTHMUS t .at scourge, and .TZ,'^! *^, J°™«' «ere victims " tl.e whole black ropulaS of rr*?' «"'' ""»» n^-Tly In tlieooures of time amX'tTv^' '*/*"'' "■"" '851. ation of passengers fro ',1 fA"'"' '^"" *''« transij but the above data 1^1,1"^'""""^ «""•" provided vevan idea of ItlXe 6.T^T" ''^^^ ™. tn-' |.-.W by way of the IstLuTh^l"^ f*"*" ^"'""""'ia -i«-ay, commenced in isro^t^nferlru! P""l>any due encoural^efe; '"'' '" "'^""^ *''« I'o travel ed over an,l ;„.,ii .•""*«' seven ni es niu<if •" t'.e „te of 7;:^^ ::f joii"*; a" '^T'"' '■"^ "- -"■ *'"ger crossing the Is Ln !. ""'''' "" every pas «« given to Ugh f ,eh«r ,, r"-'"'*^'- ^o LdZ "r three leagues easter v to P ' ^'''Tf'' »''«"«« t«o ™.lled Aspinwall, the n^„*e a^d™,' "' ^^'T S', then "»»i being thrust aside for tl5''^V"'^ 'I'" «>■«* "d- "'»ney magnate. However t.'n"'^ " ^''»' York "'«afewyea,«afterresS TI,"''' ""r "^ ^^olon "n.l r,Kle ever the seven mlh., J 7" '''^^'nl'arked, '"g for the same quite ti ?,f ''"'npleted work, na, ;;'«ed to engage\r i\,Mi;rtlr"rr '^^•^^- «' ich we could as easily anH, i 9"'S''''' ""•■■. '"■^"■e as afterward ^ "^ "^'"^Pb' liave done ''vvrfi„t/t7;r;^^^^^^^^^^^^ >"l"al and unique ; a feat^"l;.^' altogether indi- -^- wlideinclV:jlS«ra!c:rthrS ^ 'ff 158 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. ever changing scener}- which affords the observer con- stant dehght, as the journey is now made. Chagres at this time was a town of about seven hundred native inhabitants, dwelling in some fifty windowless, bamboo huts, with thatched, palm-leaf roofs, and having open entrances, and the bare ground for a floor. The town was surrounded by heaps of filthy offal, and greasy, stagnant pools bordered with i)lue mud. It is situated on a small but exceedingly picturesque and almost land-locked bay, well nigh l)uried bv the foliage that skirts its banks and rolls off in billowy emerald toward the hills beyond. Be- tween the shore and mountains stretch away for miles in every direction broad, open savannahs, cut into firms, covered with chaparral, and stocked with cattle. Wh< re the river and ocean meet rises a bold bluff, ( rowned by the castle of San Lorenzo, whose ruined f )rtre.ss and batthnncnts, gnawed to a skeleton bv the toetli of time, gaze mournfully out upon the sea which lashes its waves against its steep foundations, as if determined to uproot in all these inhospitable parts the last vestige of the olden time. Fallen to the bottom of the clifll* were parapet and guns ; screaming SL\a-birds occupied the crumbling, moss-covered watch- tower ; while within the dismounted cannon, bearing, with the royal arms of Spain, the date of 1745, were slowlv chanixinsr into rust. Ilenmants of the old paved road which ascends the hill were there, and the draw- bridge over the moat — once wide and deep, but now rank with vegetation — leading to the main gateway ; likewise the drawbridije to the citadel on the verjje of t!ie cliff, whence a charming view of sea and land may be had. At Chagres, passengers were accustomed to stay no longer than sufficed to engage boats and start on their journey. This region is specially noted for the insalubrity of its climate. Asjnnwall, or Navy bay, where the first blow upon the railway was struck, occupies a small swampy nmd- reef called Manzanilla island, fringed with mangrove COLON. beasts and n„i^„„U3 inseots ' '' ""'^ "-^ ^^'Pt"-', %. anXea'S rt^''^^"'^- -'-' Nav, seems to ,„o l.arcllv nr 2l,I l""T^'' C"l"n. Tl,is "f ">e early voya^Z^^^t a„v" "'^'''•^' '''"-■ '-' « event ; and in the next «?,.„ fi ^ '"™'""' "f ™el, an '"'vo found many"ZLmZ'\«"'^^ ad.niral coul »"* timn this tJZvCZa "^^S-^ud "»P'-rt 'le Bastidas or Columb,^ f , ^''«ther Kodri,,,, r-d;^ do not .state Kfi;;?^''::';' ?'."'«.«, th.Iir "f tiiat famous place it will? *""? '""*""' '"akes adventures of Die?r'dp K- '^ ^'-ombered, s in the ;^'«?- A relativJof twrS ™"p*'"'^«^''--i- bavn,g eonnnand of anXr Zn *[' '^"f'" ^y '""'■'•• ^■euosa sailed, and beeoVni^iltlf ''/.'''"' "' "''"''I "amier in a storm, wr/orL 1^*"' '^"'" ''» ™'"- ^,arl,„r his worn,-eaten II n aT H ''^ T'"'"S '"'", to Cl.agres, so called b the Lt' ;"""*'' "^ «'o river I'o nmltitudes of ^La f.rs tw"; ''""" ,^^'''^''' f--"" Aspniwall, with its hvl.rll^^M?" "'"' '»«•" "f '"terseeting stajfna ,t^n " I' T 'T T' f*''^"-^^'" "^ ''«'aymg vegetation reek 1 t.t-r'' "^ ""'»« «»<! omwhng reptiles, oiver „ve? r"""""' ""^ «'ith "f 'ler creations, man L, "^ ""*'"•« *" the vilest '™ in. or ,.th;r to die TS T'^"-^ " l''-« '-f ^ I'lan.Iy written on the face f l"'™"'""'e death is "ant. Tmvel the world over 7"F ^'"•"''^•"" i"''«l- '"V find son,ething he ter than i T "7'^' f''-^" v„u I'laec. Sear<-hinL' for thJ • '? """"' '» a»v other --'I' o«elled, w^Vu,;,* rinTe?"-' "' ",'"<■'' ^sp.' ! eaimot be anywhere surpassedw, "■■'"" ^'"'''' «■'"<■'' '^^""lla island may h«.Tthe fi "f '^^''e"- Man- j'''!";:*- Originalfy aw,,,," ^Cf """•^'^^ "" *''e I^U'ldings were below thJtvel of ,'^""«'«"™'« "f the itvilof the ocean, and dry 160 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. land was made by filling in as occasion required. The result in this soft soil of filth and vegetable putridity may be imagined. The very groun:! on which one trod was pregnant with disease, and death was dis- tilled in every breath of air. The rain-fall at Aspin- wall is very heavy. During the rainy season, which is from May to January, the windows of heaven are opened, and in October and November there is a quick succession of deluges. Glued furniture falls In pieces ; leather moulds, and iron oxidizes in twenty- four hours. Quite a contrast between the old and the new I In making the transit by rail, the day before reaching Aspinwall every one descended into the hold of the steamer, either in person or by proxy, selected his baggage, had it weighed and cheeked, and paid ten cents a pound for all over fifty pounds if a holder of p steerage ticket, and all over one hundred pounds if a holder of a cabin ticket. Baggage was then trans- ferred to the steamer on the other side witiiout fur- ther trouble to the owner. No sooner was the pjank out than the closely penned passengers, with a rush, squeezed and stampeded — the American style of dis- embarking — hastened ashore, scattered themselves among the hotels, shops, and fruit venders, and were soon lost in present gratification of appetite, and in laying in a store of comforts and disease for the future. The pleasure of placing foot on shore after a long voyage, even though it be the soft spongy shore of Aspinwall, is exquisite. To a cramped sea-rolled landsman any spot of earth looks lovely, especially when viewed from the sea. To tread on solid ground, and feel mother earth beneath your feet again, seems like a return from supernatural regions. Thus to land and thus to cross the Isthmus is a pleasant change from the tiresome life on board the steamers. Railway passengers wish the ride was longer, wish they could so ride all the way to San Francisco. Seated by an open window, the face fanned by the RACE PANDEMONIUM. m motion of the train, and armed with a pitcher or pail of iced water, the ride is indeed charming. But at the time of which I write crossing the Isthmus was a veiy different affair, as I shall show. !rlaced ashore at Aspinwall by the ship's boats the passengers by the Georgia were conveyed on oiien platform cars to Gatun, seven miles distant, situated on a small stream of the same name, near its conflu* ence with the Chagres river. There an uproarious scene presented itself The occasion was the hiring of bongos or canoes in which to ascend the river. The boating was done by negroes and natives ; the patroncs, skippers, or owners of the boats were mostly Creoles, the least tinge of whiteness in their blood being suffi- cient to warrant them in asserting supremacy. The gold-seekers were here first thrown upon their own resources ; here the real battle began. On shipboard tliey were only so much steamship pabulum ; tho goddess of liberty had shrunk to the dimensions of a captain of a water craft. Once more on shore, and American manhood might again assert itself Of course attempts would be made at cheating, and such attempts sliould be resisted to. the death. Nothing quicker marks the narrow-minded and inexperienced traveller than a morbid fear of being overreached. Sliall the American eagle be brow-beaten by the turkey-buzzards of a nonderscript No-land? Hence any attempt at fancied imposition was blustered down, and knives and pistols freely used, if locessary, to en- force fair dealing. Seldom did a steamer load of passengers get started up the river without much wrangling. Boat-owners were not slow to take advantage of tj.<nr necessities, and charge exorbitant fares ; or having made a con- tract they flew from it and demanded more. Rascal- ity was rampant ; and so keen were the adventurers to scent a swindle that they sometimes found a mare's nest. Ma'w a pil ^frini here first shed the crust of oouvcntionality ; and many another on glancing inta Ca&. Int. Poc. 11 1G2 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. the kaleidoscope of unsanctified human nature and liberated passion turned back discomfited, and sought his home oy the steamer that brought him. If the infernal regions were to be bombarded for this gold, they would pause and consider the matter. Then there were yet those fastened by fate in this magnifi- cent cesspool of tropical putrescence who could get neither way; who having taken their chances of reaching California had lost. Happy indeed would they have been if they could have gone forward in any direction. And there were those, saffron-visagcd skelett)ns, stretched side by side on cots, in the heated rooms of hotels, on whom death had set its seal, with no loved one near to ease the aching limb or wet the parched tongue. Passengers in India rubber and oilcloth suits, singly and in aniuli/amated groups of quondam friendships, armed with pistols, guns, knives, umbrellas, and life- preservers, mild-mannered as belted brigands, were on the qui vive lest assassination should add their car- casses to the many significant mounds in the vicinity. Equipped with drinking-cups, pots, kettles, forks, spoons, and air-beds, with stores of meat, bread, brandy, and pills, all were rushing about bargaining, swearing, and whooping, impatient to be off. Bam- boo-faced patrones ranting bad Spanish, in broad- bottomed pantaloons, colored muslin shirts, and broad- brimmed jipijapa hats, with huge cigars in their sensual mouths, having fleets or boats at their connnand, formed the central figure of excited groups, danoes from fifteen to twenty-five feet in length, dujjj from a single log of bay or mahogany, and capable of carrying from four to ten persons with their luggage, could be engaged to Gorgona for from thirty to fifty dollars and a bottle of brandy for the boatmen. The patron usually accompanied his fleet, steering one uf the boats. Our boat is engaged — it has an awning to protect ON THE THE CHAORES RTVER. 163 iliips, life- re on • car- inlty. forks, )rea(l, ining, Baiu- road- roacl- thcir their oups. ble of fiftv The kne «^'t rotect us from alternate sun and rain — our baggage stowed, and we have settled into as comfortable positions i.s our cargo will permit. One glance at the jangling crowd ujwn the bank, and we are off. After all there is something touching in the scene. The steamer we had an idea would bring character to the surface ; but now we find we knew little of our neiy;hbors before they stepped ashore, and assumed their respective parts forthe Isthnms extravaganza. The burly man and loud talker, that we imagine might brave boatmen cr boa constrictors, now pufl's and sweats about the outir edge of a knot of determined actors, among whom tie little quiet boyish-looking fellow, with shoi-t, slight frame, small hand, and delicate features, assumes au- thority as by appointment. In such an emergency mind and resolute daring, of their own inherent vir- tue, form a nucleus round which grosser substance !:!;ravitatcs. Then what a history they have, every one of them. In their outre guise, with all their inor- dinate desires and liberated propensities, their fretful fault-findings, stupid misunderstandings, and morbid restlessness, there is an air of stormy grandeur about tlicm. They are heroes and martyrs, in their way. Have they not left quiet peace for troubled wander- ings, abandoned loving hearts for loneliness ? Have tlioy not for sweet charity's sake blinded their eyes to tlie rosy smiles of children, stopped their ears to tlie passionate sobs of wife and mother and sister, steeled tlieir affections against home and its sanctifying mem- ories, and cast themselves adrift, aye, plunged their souls into a gehenna of hiquietude and stinging battle? Two or four or six shining, black, thick-limbed and muscular negroes, uniting with the African wooly hair, and protruding lips, a Moorish aquiline nose, or as many lighter colored, and lighter limbed natives, piopelled the boats up the stream by means of poles, at an average speed of a mile an hour. Taking their stand upon the broadened edges of the canoe on either ' 164 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. side, one end of their pole upon the bottom of the river, and the other placed aj^ainst their shoulder, smoking with perspiration, their deep chests sending fortli volumes of vapor into the vapory air, their swollen sinews strained to their utmost tension, and keeping time to a sort of grunting stmg, they step steadily along from stem to stern, thus sending the boat rapidly over the water, except where the cur- rent is strong. The middle of the channel, where the water is deep and the current rapid, is avoided as much as possible; yet with every precaution the men frequently miss their purchase and the boat falls back in a few minutes as great a distance as it can re- cover in an hour. Ev3ry now and then, ceasing their work, the swarthy boatmen disrobe with the most im- perturbable sang froid, and wholly insensible to the presence of horror-stricken females, and with perspira- tion streaming down their naked sinewy limbs, cry "banoTand running the bow of the boat into the bank, they fasten it there with the poles and plunge into the stream. Or if overtaken by rain, which here falls with scarcely the slightest warning, they strip them- selves to the last rag of whatever they happen to have on, and rolling up their clothes put them in a dry place until the rain is over. In places poles and paddles are wholly ineffectual, and tlie boatmen are obliged to take to the bank, and tow the boat after them with a rope, or, wading in the water, bear it by main force up the rapids. One boat after another is pushed along amid sage re- marks, coarse jests and yells, and the firing of pistols. There is a humorous side to every scene; and this was the side usually uppermost in early Californian times, however trying the ordeal, or incongruous tlio grouping, or dismal the moral shades. To these ad- venturers so lately liberated from the nauseating con- finement of a rolling overcrowded steamer, — not- withstanding the heat and moisture which hung in the air, and folded them about like a wet blanket— REHUNDANT VEf,ETATIOir. 160 ^^ft^ Vr IZf'l- ^^ ^'^-^ ^'-ir J "liKi. ii.ki«fc scenes SO .3 ' ^^/'^'^^^ "^ '"u«c]e i.^d toj?etI,erwitI,Ii|>era,n./\- ^"."^ wonderful to tHe . tJ'ty spirits; tJ.o;,rJ ' ,,,17'^ ^f '"Jarating eff^^^^ up^.^ '•^^ain to seek rofufe f shh/^i" ^ere quite rS -"the other side. " ^ '^"^^ ^^^^^e they found on^ -mountains f in,:ni<.u'^' S^l''''r''^^- ^'« 7 • .^''^''y shade of ,rrepn « i ^'^''^"tic, rank, and fl^s with rose-red purnh '. •?"''''^' ^"^ K'i»t nin ''Jf^andpinkin^ndfesst^^^^^^ Pahns, thiek-Ieaved rnin ^' i^'i ?^''''^"'^"P^- sS '-""teous bananas arTS'it »'«J-«tii teak and I'^^^asites, whicJ, uZn^t, I^ .""»»««"-Wosscined •^'ndant, mat and uni e Si "f![^^"'^'' ^^««Pi"g, and '/•ace, and <>ver-reac fn . t ^ ^^'"^^ '"^ '^««^ e.n -- ;rge in the gZ^y 't^T'li''' i^^"^« '"^-t ■nf fT ''""^>^ '•"^'ts into the ; f?""''"^' ^^^-ias ^^'»t falling, and weave Jh.; 1 "^* ^^^^^^ to pre- ^roens; bread-fruit hanl in ' ^'^T^'''' "'*« t] iek «"'! piantain pine-ann ^f ^'"^'^ ^^««ters overlie^/ l-i-w ailigatir^ Jtnd "sur"^^^' "-.T ^^'S J'^T spontaneous favors ifT'^"!' ^.^^^^ Profusei; I" f tree in the tropics Tf "? *"^'"^^ "^^tter to "'acl^' a plant-patriarch wlw,"'""* ^'"' ^^^^ng it J ;:;;;ft support a%len'; ;,,^^^^^^^^^ or no\ an ^ ^\ and creeping pL2 of «V'''^1^^^«' P^^ple convol. poeies, which^if !sp! Jl f„^^;^«^ every genus and ', ^^f^ parpet coveVin..- a snl. fi ^T"""^ ^'^"^^^ fi>rin J^'^' tree's shadow at nolT ^''^^ *""e« the area of ••••^'st behemothVsmo h; 7; ^^^ ^^^^ at last tJ^e f '^vn by these re ent ess ^ rl . ^.''^^'^' ^"^ ^^4 ed PmliJy buried in broad f^""^^'^'' '*« napless trunk^'s i'^'-hes of spongy Zts i'^f ?^ J^^^^^^ vines an Underneath dark yZjlT''^'' ''^'*««^"^«. vistas of shadowy colonnade are .1 t!. „ 166 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. tall grasses and tanyflod shrubbery tlirouj'h wliicli wild beasts with difficulty force their way. What in our colder dimes are rare exotics, here riot in the open air, bursting with exuberance. Innumerable flowers of every hue gild the landscape ; the tiny blos- soms of the north spread out in flaming proportions, or assume shapes m which they almost lose their iden- tity, while innumerable species unknown to the north- ern naturalist abound in rank profusion. Chief among these, and one of the most remarkable that blooms in any clime, is the Flor del Espiritu santo, the flower of the holy ghost. Lifting its graceful form from marshy j)ools and decayed logs to a height sometimes of six or .seven feet, it throws out broad lanceolate leaves by })airs from jointed leaf-stalks, while on a leafless flower-stalk springing from the bulb are sometimes ten or fifteen tulip-shaped blossoms of alabaster white- ness, and powerful magnolia perfume, enfolding with- in their tiny cups the prone image of a dove, formed in such consummate grace and synmietry as no art could approach. And with this emblem of imiocence and celestrial purity rising from a sensual jiaradise; with its gentle head bent meekly forward, its ex(|uis- itely shaped pinions hanging listlessly by its sides, its tiny bill, tipped with delicate carmine, ahnost resting on its snow-white breast, in form and feature the v<iy incarnation of ethereal innocence — shall we blame tlie early priests for pointing the poor natives to this flower, and telling them (lod is here? Palm trees of various descriptions line the banks, and gorgeous water lilies dip their fragrant heads as tho boat passes over tlusm. Every shower of rain is like the s})rinkling of perfume on the vegetation lairds of richly painted plumage and shrill song ilium inate the forest; the dark, scarlet-breasted toucan, which tosses its food from its long serrated beak int<> the air and catches it in its throat, and in drinking, ns the padres say, makes the sign of the cross, whem • they call it Dios te de, (May God give thee) ; scream li^ ANIMATED NATURE. 167 ing parrots, parroquets and flamingoes witli their harsh discordant voices, and black and yellow turpiales, wild turkeys, peacocks, and herons, and multitudes of others, gorgeously feathered and sweet of song, glitter amidst the shadowy green. Chatteihig monkeys leap from tree to tree and swing upoji the pendent vines ; mammoth blue butterflies, brilliant as the rainbow, dance in the sun and rise to match the azure of heaven on wings a hand broad; and humming birds, beautiful as the butterflies, buzz and poise and dart from flower to flower. Myriads of insects with burnished coats of mail sparkle in the air and poo[)le the plants, while all through the day the shrill whistle of the chichana — a kind of green grasshopper — is heard, which begin- ning in a low gurgle, rises into a clear blast like the whistle of a steam engine, and which may be distin- ".•"uished a mile distant. Early Sjjanish writers throw up their hands in as- tonishment over the wonders of this land; melons, cucun.bers, and lettuce, say they, ripen in twenty days after they are sown. Fruits and edible roots al)ound in great profusion. The pinea[)ple was considered the most delic ious of all tropical productions. Wild bea.sts and venomous rej»tiles and birds of brillia!;o }.lumage fill the forests. A species of lion, smaller than those of Afri(a was found tliere, as well as fierce leopards and ravenous tigers which easily tear a niau in pieces; deer, fox(\s, hai'i's, raltbits, nniltitudes of dvvB and monkeys, alligators, venomous bati , vij)eis, snakt s, s;*orpions, plieasants, peacocks, parrots, and birds decked in a tlnmsand shades of gay livery, and pour- ing forth swei't melody, all preying one upon another, each fulfilling its mission, to oecujjy and <'njoy tht; bounteous gifts of nature so lavishly placed at their dis[)osal. It is a pity so fair a scene should be so foul; that such dark death-clealing plague-spots should be clotted in treacherous beauty ; that quick and ardent nature siiould flood such loveliness with vapors of destruction, 168 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. slioulci breathe into it a breatli of malignant perfume, and give it over to slimy reptiles and ravenous beasts ; to panthers, tigers, leopards and cougars, to long lash- like snakes, and lazy alligators, and poisonous ants, and black stinking cormorants. The river here is a clear, but somewhat shallow stream, about fifty yards wide ; its banks at first low and marshy rise into hills as you ascend, and roll off in distant mountains. Now it is full of bongos and canoes coming and going, racing, knocking against each other ; and at every turning of the crooked stream the boatmen's cries and shouts of passengers are heard cheering as they pass. So winding is this river in its course that more than fifty miles are traversed in order to reach a point thirty miles distant. On they go, the prospective diggers, panting after a sight of the yellow dross as harts pant for water. To them it was nothing but the nakedness of God's creation, all this wild, weird beauty about them, the glorious <iuivering and play of light and shadow, where the black reflects th(i clifl[s of eternal foliage rising sheer from its very edge. As we ascend, though still tropic, the river scenery becomes more subdued, and the country in i)laces begins to look as if cultivation was b(;ing attem})ted. At Dos Hermanos we stop[)ed a little before night for our supper. Before one of the principal eating- houses we found a table spread in the open air, covered with a clean cloth, and attended by a mahogany- colored wc»man, bare to the waist, with a white loobe flowered cotton skirt trimmed with lace, a broad- brimmed Panaiiul hat, and a golden necklace adorned with coins. On her unstockingtd feet were a pair of yellcvv satin slippers, and in her mouth a long large ( itrar. On the table were red earthen iui^s and odd- sirapiul dishes filled with tortillas, dried meat, boiled fi»wl, eggs, fresh rolls, and cofl'ee. Scarcely had we started on our way when night s NIGHT ON THE RIVER. 169 foil suddenly upon us and the whole heavens were illuminated. Large fireflies glowed like sapphire in their vain endeavor to outshine the stars, which sparkled with almost dazzling brilliancy above them. Behold here a new heaven and a new earth 1 new constellations above and new fruits and flowers below. A torch placed in the bow of the boat cast weird sliadows over the disturbed water, and threw into denser blackness the bordering thickets. Presently the moon came up from behind the mountains of verdure ; and while the swarthy forms of the boatmen marched to their monotonous strains, the tired travel- ler sat silently with cramped legs, or la}- his aching back upon the heaped up luggage and watdud in <lreamy speculation the blazing stars. Passing Ahona Lagarto we spent the whole of the following day toiling up tlie stream under a burning sun, with occa- sional showers of rain, the hot glare upon the water and the steamiiu i itenness on the land beinij at times almost unendui.i»ble ; now and then we landed to rest and eat. The crisp cool morning and evening air, laden with sweet odors from the woodlands, was most refreshing. Part of the next night we laid over iit Barbacoas, a native village with huts of poles and palm-leaves furnished with a mat to stretch on and a liainmock to loll in. and thick with swarms of naked iliildren. Before the tramp of gold-seekers awoke tlieir avarice, centuries came and went, and the dolce far nieiite of the natives, Tike their soft skies and fragrance-breatliing forests, was undisturbed. Too liululgent nature by withholding the necessity r'i- iiu>ved tlie incentive to action. The next day we reached (;rorgona, wliich ended our boating and the first stage of the journey across the Isthmus. Two days and nights were usually oc- cupied in accomplishing this distance, portions of the (lays being taken for rest and portions of the nights f .r travel. There were tw(» }»oints on the river where passengers were accustomed to leave their boat and ?! ' no THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. take a mulo trail for Panamii — Gorgoua ar.d Cruccs, the latter beiiit; about six miles froiii the fornier; in- deed, there was a third lauding, Obispo, lying lutween the other two at a shar[) bend in the river. Gorgona is the head of river navigation for six months of the year, namely, from November to April, and Cruces for the other six montlis. The trails from these ditter- cnt points all unite before reaching Panama. At Gorgona, that is to say the Place of Rocks, we found a bamboo-built hotel with thatched roof and gr.>und floor, the principal room having round the sides rows of <jrass hanunocks huni; on a frame-work of upriglit [»osts in the form of shelves one over an- other like tlie steerage berths of a steainer. These berths were of sufficient size to acconnnodate an out- stretched man, and one of them I engaged for the niu'ht for one dollar. Evidentlv the landlord knew jiow to keep a hotel. After supper I went out to take a survi^y of the place. The scenery thence is bolder than any I have yet seen on the Isthmus. The town, consisting of about a hundred houses, is built on a high table-land, wlu^nee rise hills and uioun tains on every side, covered with drift-like masses of vegetation moved by the meeting winds from two oceans, and formins.? an amijliitheatre throunh wliich flows tli(> tortuous stream at my feet. Yonder is the crowning peak of (JjUid)ali whtMice, it is said, both the Atlantic and Pacific may be seen from onv. spoL Besides the house in which I. lodged were i\\v <n' six others, some of them of boards, some of a»lobe with tiled roofs, and some of ret.'ds, with largt; signs sueji as "l^nion Hotel," " Hotel Francalse," an<l tlu' like. Ivept mostly by Yankcu' landlords, who appeared ti^ know h(»w to make the most out of the traffic. The earrying tra<ie betwei'ii here and Panama sniarks of Yankee enterprise, as do also the gaming tables wliere the natives lav down their hard-earned dollars. Tlfr- Were also a few stoivs, and an abundance of drinkhi'j saloons and fandan'j-o liou.ses. \io;ht came; on apait IL ii OORGONA. m aiul darkness, falling suddenly when once the glaring sun dropped behind the hills, and soon a blaze of li^ht poured from the hotels, saloons, and gand)ling and dance houses in front, while a thousand moving torches glinnnered in the surrounding darkness, and niingli'<I with the promiscuous mass of l)rut«3 and human life. Kisinj*' in the back<;round was the dark silent wood, and in front the sluo;«j;ish stream, on whose bank this ' ■ strange assemblage had gathered. Tlierc was a i, ulango that night; tluae always seems to be one at places of this kind. The (jiorgonan upper ten danced at the alcalde's; the baser sort c»n tJK^ sward beneath a vertical moon. Bvron is riyht in his sarcasm on the chaste moon. It was a half barbaric and wholly volu})tuous dance, and the reward of the danseuse, the most enduring and suggestive, was to ha,'e the hats of the company piled on her head — a doubtful honor considering the headu from which they come. These hats had the advantage over beeliives, that their iidiabitants did not sting. liising early next morning, and partaking of a hasty breakfast of beans, salt meat, coarse bhv( k l)read, and cottee without milk, I went out and eneountei'cd a scene similar to that at (ratun, where we had embarked on the river below two days before, e\e» j)t tiiat in the present bargMining nmles took tl.e ]>lace of boats, and th<'re was an absence (»f that wild hilarity which displayed itself innnediately on landing from tli«' steamer. All thi'ough the nigjit boats had been arriving, an<] there \*'ere now a huiidii'd of them and more .sti'unu' siih; bv side at the; lantlin<r. On the low sheK ing .sandy bank were scattered ml»)ers' tents and nativ.' huts, uncovered p!h\s of baggage, miiighd with which were the prostrate forms of unlioused l>ilgrims, landlords, mulct eer>;, and trons))ort contract- ors, w hile up the stee)) embaidvment, rising from tlie rivcr-botton>, were bands of fly-blown hor.ses of the or- (I'-r of lt<isinant'\ neighing to the mournful melody of nmles, and iilling the heavens with their discords. 172 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. ! i« To add to the commotion, we here met ^lic main body of returning Californians, on their way from Panamd, to take the steamer which we had left. Some of them were neatly clad, orderly, and quiet ; others, in their shaggy hair and long untrimmed board, guarding with religious care their torn and earth- stained garments, as sacred relics t)f their pilgrimage, were laden with gold-dust, and wore in their bronzed visages the smirk of success; but by far the greater number were disappointed-looking men, poorly dressed, some suflcring from rheun^atism, cri[)pled limbs, and broken constitutions; some with their formerly stal- wart frames shrunken and wasted by fever, and many disheartened, bankrupt wretches, who had been stripped of their all, and were now returning to their homes, scattc^ring curses on California as they wont alonj;. It is a significant fact that the steamer steer- age was better filled on the return trip than on tlie voyage out; and there was more money in the pock- ets and ill the gold-dust belts of the steerage pa'^scn- gers than in those of the cabin passengers. The rea- sons were those: Returning Californians comprised four several classes. First, those who could get home no other way, who could l>arely scrape enough together to buy a stf'^'rage ticket Secondly, those who had money, but who 1im/1 toiled hard for it, were accus- tomed to roughing it, and [u*ferred economizing here that tliey might liave the more hen^after; tliis was a large class. Tlilrdly, inetiicient and impecunious sons or relatives of geiitlenu'n, who were heljted to (Vili- fornia by their friends in the ho})e that they would there develop into sonu'thiiig, and were now, aft( r having made a miserable failure of it, being heijied back to tlieir homes in order to save them from total destruction. Ihese could by no means make up tlielr minds to descend into the depths so long as tlu>v had friends to foot tlieir bills. And fourthly, men of means, whose monev was chieflv in bills of exchain»e. Many miners went home in the steerage armed to the GOING ANT) RETURNING. 173 teeth, and well laden with gold-dust, two or more friends uniting their accumulations, and each in turn guarding their treasure night and day, never leaving it for an instant during the entire trip. This was in order to save the freight, which was then high. They argued if they got through, their money should ; if it was lost, all would go down together. Narrowly they eyed one another, the going and the returning, one with interest not unminglcd with ad- miring envy, and the other with an air of superiority, perhaps with contemptuous pity. Ahl the mighty power of gold, in which is condensed all that is bright and beautiful of earth, all that is holy of heaven and hateful of hell, in whose yellow molecules are wrapped all human virtue and passion, that could thus consum- mate this meeting, bringing together from the remotest ends of earth brave men of thought and deed, meeting here in the heart of a tropical wilderness, in the middle of this narrow Isthmus which so provokingly obstructs the world's commerce, on the topmost point, round which revolves the two Americas and the two great oceans, meeting in a pestilential clime, some hurrying one way and some another, some sick to death of gold- seeking, others burning for it! It was not a little curious, the sight, as we stood and watched them there, the outward bound and homeward bound, some with the confident swagger of greenness yet upon them, rude and unacconunodating in their grumbling selfishness, stupid in their perverse independence, aiui surly in their unreasonable opj>osition to order and regulations ; the others, men of like origin and caste, but licked into some degree of form and (*ongruity by their rough experiences, rude and ragged they niay be, but quieter, more subdued, more easily adapting themselves to circumstances, more ready to yield some fancied right for the common good, more humanized uiid harmonious, whether more polished « or n(;t. LiLji.t like that of revelation seems to have broken In upon them during their w;in'J.cr:n;j3, enlijliten- 'i'l ' I . il:' m THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. ing their minds and toning their hearts to new sensibiHties. With as little delay as possible our passengers handed their baggage to tht; packers, hired saddle- mules, paying from ten to twenty dollars for a beast to Panamd, and mounting, filed off into the narrow path that marked the way. Some of the women donned man's apparel, and rode man-wise ; others accepted a compromise, and followed Mrs Amelia Bloomer, who cut off her skirts and paraded the streets of New York in short clothes first in 1849, just in time for the California-going sisterhood to adoi)t that costume on the Isthnms; others refused in any wise to molest the sacred limits of their })etticoats, prefer- ring to die rather than to outrage modesty, shame tho sex, and exhibit their larsje ankles even to tlie barbarians, among whom he who wore the least cloth- iwiX was most in fashion, nakedness absolute beiny; full dress. Children were seated iti chairs strapped to tlie backs of natives ; luggage was also carried lashed to the backs of porters. For so supposedly enervating a climate, the loads these natives, negroes and mongrels, are capable of carrying is surprising. I was told thut some of tliem frequently packed on their backs 2C0 pounds from Gorgona to Pananul, twenty-five miles, in a day and a half. Many of the passengers engaged, these men to carry their efiects, antl made the journey with them on foot. There was no wagon road across the Isthnms, and the trail from Gorgona, though not so broken as that from Cruces, was rough in the extreme, and led tlirough a greatly diversified country. Two miles brouLjht us across the table land, when we entered a dense forest, from which tlie sun was wholly excludiMl by tho overhanging branches. Thence we ft)llowe<l the path successively over soft, uneven ground, througli shady canons, and mountain chasms nmrky in their gloomy solitude, up and round precipitous hillsides cut by travel into steps and stairs, on which and hito THE ISTHMUS LAND JOURNEY. well-worn holes the careful and sagacious animal placed his foot tenderly, knowing that an inch or two on the wrong side of it would send him sliding down the steep slope. Now we would be under a canopy of creepers trellised with palms, now winding through a valley of impervious undergrowth, rustling with serpents, in- sects, and birds, and then out into the broad, open, l)urning plain, crossing turbid streams and mountain rills, wading some filthy morass, rounding rocky cliffs, and exposed alternately to sun and rain. Descending with slow and cautious step the steep declivities from the little spot of table-land round (Jorgona, then as- cending and descending attain and again until tierra caliento is reached, the scenery is ever changing, now capti> ating with its beaut}, and now thrilling with its Magnificence. Often we passed through ravines which had been washed out by the rain, and so narrow at the bottom that on entering at either end I)orsons nmst shout in order to notify others wish- ing to come from the opposite direction. Hearnig the whoops of muleteers within, we were often ol)lig(>d to wait until they should emerge, when we could enter, and shout for those coming from the opposite direction to wait their turn. Some of these gullies have lu'eii worn down thirty feet and more by centuries of travi'l, and are so narrow at the bottom that a loaded mule can barely get through. Often wlu>n travellers met, one would have to turn back ; and again, when caught in tight places, horsemen would draw uj) their legs, and so lot tlie animals squeeze past each other, wlien this could be done. All along the way crosses marked the resting-place of those overtaken by fever or assas- sin, while tlie murderer himself found unsanctificd .sojjulchre beneath a ]iile of stones at the cross-roads. Every now and then we would stop to rest at a way- side rancheria, where bread, warm water, and vile liquors were sold at exorbitant prices. Then there Avere more pretentious houses where the belated trav- eller could spend the night, the " Halfway House " and «• I i ^! 170 THE VOYAOE TO CALIFORNIA. the " True Half-way House " kept by Europeans or Ainericaiis, Tea and coftee were plentiful along the route, but milk was scarce. The water of the Isth- mus, for drinking purposes, early acquired a bad name ; its effects were said to be extremely delet(;rious, espe- cially on Europeans. The distaste, thus or other- wise arising for this fluid, so fastened itself on many of the pilgrims that it never afterward left them ; for on arriving in California they seemed to prefer strych- iime whiskey even to the melted snow of the Sierra. As a matter of fact, water, and nothing else, taken simringly will carry one through fatigue and inhospit- able climates better than any stimulant. In crossing the Isthnms thousands have killed themselves, or planted the seeds of disease, under the excuse that water was pernicious. In ancient times there was a trail from Panamsl to Cruces, paved with large round stones from six to eighteen inches in diameter. In places it was three feet wide. It overlaid all the softer ground, and con- nected with the rocky defiles and hillside shelves, where it frequently narrowed to a foot in width. Near Pa- namsl it widened yet more and was kej)t in tolerable repair, but the upper end was dilapidated and almost useless, being washed away by flood, or cut under or broken sheer asunder by torrents, so as to leave it in pieces high above the sunken bottom of a ravine. Over tnese disordered heaps of smooth stones minglefl with soft deep nmd, the poor heavily laden nmle was obliged to stumble, and the wonder was how he ever got through at all. Though not as comely as the beau- tiful beasts of Europe, these mules, with their limbp ui steel, show a more marvellous dexterity, risking their feet with confidence, as if by instinct or memory, in dangerous places. There is no necessity for diret t- ing the animal you ride ; give him his head and let him go, and when you get to Panamd get off" and give him the bridle ; the master is not far awav. Tlu^ Gor- goua trail strikes the ancient road some seven or eigla «'o northern ocean tlio t ^ "."^ ''''»■•' f'c river (,. ;""v«yod for eentiries Ij . " "?'« »'""' S^^^was « seen g„|,| trains ami' =°i ™" *" "'« «lav wcr. T «'-'.'fKlitterinr„Xl:^^Xl'r';r *'"' ^~^ '•"liimoned mures wit ,^;„ r I''" ^"''"•'S of rielWv and spurred, and atSe^H ' *"-'"'''•>' ""'"-/iSot^l vollow nmsketeera. TWv^ V?^ "f ''"if a d.^,^ ^'«t assistance to ar,v nfii '"'^"^ ^^^^cr tlie sli. U ^/^ close; houses, two and^ '^^^^ *^'^^^>^dm^^^^ ; «d and adobe, supplant 1 ''^ '^«"^'« i» heil.T «? .««.4 »W »tone cross and bell, we ent^^IV c^^ INT. Poc. 02 ""^ ^^^^> Panama is the oldest nin IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 m ISO 3.2 I.I 1.25 i'-i IM IIIII2.2 :" m '""^ I "- IIIM lU U II 1.6 Va e /a o % Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MA!N STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. «4580 (716) 872-4503 V ^^^ A ^ LO^ V k 'V- i. 4if V . '<liEvf \ \ ^N ^'^ » 178 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. European city now standing on the mainland of the two Americas. In tlie year 1515, tlie story goes, Pedrarias Ddvila, governor of Castilla del Oro, despatched from Santa Maria de la Antigua del Darien, the first settlement of the Spaniards on the n?ainland of America, situated on the gulf of Darien, then called Urabd, but whose traces are now wholly obliterated, Antonio Tello de Guzman, a native of Toledo, with one hundred men, and instructions to cross the Isthmus to the South Sea, and establish there a settlement from which to prose- cute discoveries along the shores of the Pacific, After several conflicts with the natives the journey was ac- complished. As he approached the borders of the southern sea, Tello de Guzman heard much of a place called by the natives Panamd, famous, as the Spaniards supposed, for its wealth ; but in truth, only a collection of fishermen's huts, the name signifying in the aborig- inal tongue, "a place where many fish aie taken." This was the discovery and origin of the site of old Pananiii ; and although nothing further was accom- plished toward a settlement during this expedition, subsequently, from the reports given by Tello de Guzman, Pedrarias founded the metropolis of his government. There, after the chivalrous Vasco Nunez and liis comrades had been belieaded at Ada, the surly old governor quarrelled with Oviedo, and plotted against his best friends. Thence Pedrarias proceeded to pacify Nicaragua, and thence Francisco Pizarro and his bloody crew sailed for the conquest of Peru. "Very noble and very loyal" Charles V. called the town in those days, meaning thereby very nmcli gold, very much goldl Now the spot is so si- lent and dead, so crumbled and fc^rest-encloscd, that on one side you may pass within ten steps of its ancient walls and discover no city, while from the bay a soli- tary ivy-covered tower is seen, which marks the tomb of crumbled splendor scattered round its base. In 1671 the buccaneers under Henry Morgan, sacked *-^ THE OLD AND THE NEW. 179 and burned old Panarnd, and it was then determined to choose a healthier site before rebuilding the city. The old city boasted its palatial houses of cedar, adorned with paintings and rich hangings, its cathe- dral and other fine churches ; its eight convents, with their costly altar-pieces and gold and silver orna- ments; its 2000 dwellings tenanted by wealthy mer- chants, and 5000 by lesser tradesmen; its royal stables, and beautiful gardens, and fertile fields; and the new city was built upon a scale of yet grander magnificence. But with the decline of Spanish power in the new world, Panamd fell. The vast trade U[)on the Pacific, extending frt)m Chili to CaHfornia, and across to the Philippine islands, which brought to anchor in her harbor galleys laden with tlie gold and silver of America, and the rich stuffs and spices of India, and filled her store-houses, and made her mer- chants princes, became scattered. The city sank into a lethargy from which it was partially awakened by the shouts and pistol-shots of a new race of gold-seek- ers. But Ichalx^d was too deeply graven on her door- posts. The glory of despotism and fanaticism had departed; and even in the momentary awakening in- cident to the Californian emigration the principal traffic was in the hands of Anglo-Americans. As com[)ared with its ancient grandeur Panamd, until the construction of the ship canal was fairly under way, presented a melancholy ap])earance. The city is built on a rocky peninsula which juts out some quarter of a mile from the base of the Ancon hill into a broad, peaceful, isle-dotted bay. Across this peninsula from beach to beach, extend streets, inter- sected at right angles by other and broader streets, which invite currents of air, and most of which are well paved. On approaching the city from any tlirec- tion, the dilapidated fortifications, and cathedral tow- ers, and high, tiled roofs attract the first attention. The houses are built of stone, wood, and adobe; most of them are two stories in height, some three, with f 1 ''' : 180 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. courts or patios, and verandas round the upper stories, beneath which one may walk during a rain over nearly the whole town without getting wet. The style of church architecture is sui generis, Hispano- American if you like, common to the cathedrals and missions throughout the whole Pacific States; adobe, stone, and stucco thrown together in quaint irregular piles. Some of the principal churches and many of the buildings were in ruins, the roots of ravenous plants boring into the crevices, dislocating the stone, and tearing down the huge walls. The grand old cathedral, however, remained, fronting on the plaza as all cathedrals do, with its towers filled with bells, and mosses and creepers covering its crumbling walls; beside which there were at the time I first visited the city, a college, a nunnery, and four convents. The cathedral would hold four thousand persons ; the roof was supported by large pillars ; round the altar was a profusion of silver ornaments, and flat on the floor were scores of marble slabs on which were graven the virtues of the holy remains resting beneath. The twelve apostles in marble occupied twelve niches in the end toward the plaza. Bats and lizards in- fested the building and disputed with worshippers the right of occupation. Pictures adorned the walls and shrines were placed at intervals around the interior. Over the crucifix of the high altar presided a large silver stork with her young. Throughout the city pearl-oyster shells glittered from steeples and pinnacles, and from the turreted bell-towers at the street corners, every morning at sunrise, came discordant peals, accompanied by the clang of cathedral bells, filling the streets with pious worshippers slowly and silently wending their way to church. On feast days which were many, the city flaunted her bravest finery, and looked not unlike a wrinkled beldame in gaudy attire. Gaily dressed men and women, proudly sporting their Spanish cloaks, uad darker-skinned natives in white costumes, marched PRIESTS AND PEOPLR 181 the streets from one bedizened altar to another, while the shaven priest with his peculiar hat, long black robe with bnght satin hning, small clothes fastened at the knee with golden buckles, white silk stockings, slippered feet, and cigar, surveyed with zealous inter- est the effect of his enlightened teachings. But on all days were seen stealthy coffee-colored men with thin sinewy limbs; stealthy half-naked women with twinkling jet eyes and bronze bust glis- tening in the palpitating light; girls and boys sur- rounded with cocoanuts, oranges, and limes, bananas, eggs, and flowers of shell work. There were avenues of fruit and vegetable stalls ; while through the open doors under the veranda the more aristocratic traf- fickers displayed their dry goods, groceries, and liquors. The main streets in the central part of the city were lined with hotels, shops, and gambling saloons, newly whitewashed and adorned with flaming sign- boards in English vocables, while on nearly every other house waved the stars and stripes. This busy renovated centre was flanked by crumbling vine-clad walls and mouldering ruins. In its palmy days the two sides of the town facing the sea were protected by batteries, and the sides toward the land by a hij^h wall with watch-towers and moat. The bastions were constructed at different times as necessity de- manded, and presented an irregular appearance ; and though the walls were high the fortifications were not strong. Panamd. was divided into two parishes, one, the city proper, lying within the wall, and called San Felipe, the other, that portion without the wall called Santa Ana. Two large gates opened toward the sea and two toward the land; the latter once strongly fortified were entered by drawbridges. The popular promenade was the rampart, round whose tottering walls and ragged turrets were scattered the (lismantled guns of brass, so richly wrought and so carefully embossed by the great foundries of Barcelona. The private houses of San Felipe were mostly of ; .IM m BU 182 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. stone, those of Santa Ana of wood. They had tiled roofs, unglazed windows, small halls, with doorways large enough to admit a man on horseback, through which the air might circulate freely. The heavy wooden balconies, which were universal, served at once for all possible purposes. One would there place his kitchen, another his laundry, another his bath- room; they were likewise used for reception roor\, garden, and promenade. The family living in tlie upper apartments, the ground floor was usually let for shops or manufacturing puqioses, or, it may be, occu- pied by servants. Santa Ana was composed of a poorer population, mechanics and laborers, and thcbe arranged their households as best they could, some living with rats, pigs, and chickens in a style inferior to that found in the villatjcs of the natives. Houses decayed rapidly, and owners and tenants alike appearc d averse to making repairs. Scmietimcs the dirty walls were whitewashed at the beginning of the dry season, and the holes of the comejcn-eaten woodwork filled with green paint, but often doors and balconies were left unwashed and unpainted. Water was brought on mules from a river three miles distant, and emptied into porous jars placed in niches in front of the bett( r houses, where it was kept cool by evaporation. The rooms of the city houses were usually large and airy, the ceilings high and unlined; they had no chimneys, cooking being done in the court-yard, or on the floor or stone table of the kitchen. In most of tlie rooms were hammocks, in which lazy men and loosely robed women lounged away the time. All sorts of costumes were worn by men and women of every mingled shade of color, Caucasian, American, and African. The native female was satisfied with a simple skirt; the creole loved a white cotton skirt flounced and trimmed with lace, with low, loose, sleeveless waist, leather or satin slippers, anda jipijapa hat ; the Spanish gentleman who had not yet adopted European fashions delighted in white linen pantaloons DRESg. 183 and vest, a loose coat of the thinnest material, and a broad brimmed jipijapa hat of fine texture; while the African, breeched or mibrcechcd, broiled in simplicity unconstrained. The nationality of foreigners disap- peared under the hizarreric of their accoutrements; the gentleman gold-hunter found a woollen shirt, cotton pantaloons, and straw hat very comfortable. Jipijapa hats, commonly called Panamit hats, are not made in Panamil, but in Peru and elsewhere. They might be had for two or three dollars, and up to fifty, and even more. The Spanish crcolc gentleman, who is usually slight but wiry, in complexion sallow, with black hair and eyes, and always a moustache, if his purse permitted would wear white pants, and appear to the best advantage. There was no lack of beauty shining from the half veiled faces of the sciioritas, with their white dresses, in red and yellow ribbon trimmin<^s, and bright colored slippers often covering stockinglcss feet. The dress of the better class was at this time becoming European, black being the pre- vailing color. The population of the Isthmus consisted mostly of natives. Some parts of the country had not been conquered, and several of those conquered had been abandoned by the conquerors, who found it beyond their power to occupy them and subdue nature, even if unmolested or assisted by the Indians. Besides Indian and African, and Indian and Spanish inter- mixtures, Spanish was infinitely crossed with African, of which Carib blood was then most prominent. These remarks refer especially to the coast region. In the interior departments, like that of Chiriqui, a purer white element predominated then as now. The most dangerous characters were the vagabonds from the shores of the Antilles, who had been drawn to the Isthmus since the Californian passenger trafldc com- menced. Tlie government, not having the means to support a sufficiently large police force, such as the existing circumstances demanded, authorized the rail- li'UiJ :'i If 184 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. w I road company to assume the protection of life and property on the transit, with power virtually to inflict condign punishment on criminals. The force organ- ized while the railway was being built consisted ef forty men, motley in color, costume, and character, but very efficient, and was under the command of a delicate, boyish-looking, but most energetic Texan ranger, named Ran Runnels. Though this force had no jurisdiction in the city of Panamd, it occasionally made arrests of desperate characters within the walls, the criminals receiving their punishment without. This irregularity was winked at by the authorities. In a short time the Isthmus was free of the numerous malefactors, which had been drawn from all parts of the world to prey upon travellers crossing from ocean to ocean. The climate of the Isthmus is very hot on the coasts, but on the sides of the mountains in the interior it is comparatively cool and healthy. The city of Panamd is the healthiest sea-board spot in this region, miasmatic fever being prevalent almost everywhere else. Besides standing out in the sea as it does, the waters of the ocean playing upon three sides of it, and from \\hich it receives breezes opposing the insalubrious air of the interior, there stands the hill Ancon at the rear of the peninsula, forming a natural barrier ,to the poison-breathing swamps of the Rio Grande beyond. With proper care, and avoiding the abuse of spirituous liquors, a foreigner may safely live in Panamd the year round; indeed, during the dry season, which is from the middle of December to the middle of May, with the strong northerly winds which then prevail, and the absence of heavy rains, the cli- mate is both delightful and wholesome. The bay of Panamd is a picture of languid beauty. It is large and open, yet well protected, but so shal- low near the town that large vessels are obliged to anchor two or three miles off shore. On one side is the sea into which it opens, spreading out for ten SCENERY. 185 thousand miles, north, south, and west, rolling up the bay for ninety miles its slow, strong, eternal swells, while in the background banks of dark green foliage rise from the white sandy beach, and swelling Into hills and mountains, disappear in the distant clouds. Pyramids of green verdure, made purple by distance, rise from the azure sea, and mingle with the azure heavens. Looking southward from the fortifications you see Flamenco, Perico, and Llenao or Islanao, and beyond some three leagues away is the island of Ta- boga, near which the coaling vessels rest at an- chor. The island is about a mile and a half long by half a mile wide, and has its semi-European town, and its native population, with their hamlets of bamboo huts. Far away toward the east, over indo- lent waters reflecting the blue sky, the sun's glare softened by the breath of summer mists, past little paradises of brilliant green seemingly floating on the placid surface w^hich mirrors their foliage, are the Pearl islands, where Vasco Nunez and his crew an- chored the ships which they had brought with so much labor and peril across this formidable Isthmus. On the island of San Miguel, the largest of the Pearl archipelago, is situated the town of the same name, where the unbreeched natives used to deck their tawny skin with gems that would make the eyes of a city belle sparkle with delight, and ebony pearl merchants displayed their wares, haggling in the sale of them with all the cultivated cunning of a Jew. Panamd, patched and whitewashed under the new rdgime ofl'ercd a seemingly grand array of comforts after our late privations. At the hotel we found cot beds, one to a man, although there were many men to a room. Here was a new field for fretting and brain-whetting, and well the gold hunters improved the opportunity. The streets were crowded day and night with Californian emigrants. Outside the town were encampments of them, apparently as comforta- IT, ; i! 1 186 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. ! blc in their tents as were their brethren in the ex- pensive city hotels. Here, waituig and watching, some of them for weeks and iiionths, for an opportunity to get away, tliey continued the process of moral declination and decivilization. Fledglings fresh from their mothers, little mammon-dried men, and tall hairy fellows, armed to the teeth and streaming with perspira- tion, strolled about the streets, watching the fruit- venders, and water-carriers, ogling the bare-breasted girls, pricing hats, looking wistfully at the tempting catalogue of iced drinks througli the open doors of the saloons; or, entering the churches, they would stalk about the isles, peer into tlie nmsty confessional boxes and thrust their impious fingers through the lattice, push their way into secret corners, invade the precincts of the altar and profanely handle the orna- ments, and sneer, in their superior conceptions of God- worship, at all this clap-trap of the devil, as they called it. Some few of the aspirino sort studied Spanish, or essayed some knowledge of the history of crumbling relics ; some played billiards, or gambled, or got drunk ; some fished, gathered shells, braved the sharks and bathed, hunted monkeys and parroquets, or sat under old vine-clad walls gazing at the hum- ming birds as they buzzed about the flowers. Some died of fever; others killed themselves by drinking villainous liqu.fs, eating excessively of fruit, or by overdosing with pills, patent medicines, cholera pre- ventives, and like supposed antidotes to supposed impending disease. Once seized with sickness and without a faithful comrade, a man's chance for recov- ery was small ; for already a coating of callous indif- ference to the sufferings of others seemed to be enclosing the hearts of many of these adventurers, and a pale fever-stricken stranger was too often shunned like a leper. The morning after our arrival, and for days there- YANKKE SWINDLERS. 187 after, we were in tribulation about our baggage, which the packers failed to deliver as they had i)r<)in- ised. Gradually the truth dawned upon us that this was one of the tricks of the tratle ; and when after waitin*; a week, and considering the distance from Gorgona was only twenty-five miles, which couhl bo easily made in a day and a night, when we and many others were obliged to go forward without our bag- gage, we were satisfied, as we afterward learned t' lu^ the truth, that we had been systematically swindled. The fact was that civilization, under the impulse of the gold-fever, had so tinctured this Isthmian wilderness as to have overturned the influence of the simple- minded savage, thus giving up travellers to men more rapacious than beasts, which will not prey upon their kind. At Chagres and on the river, transportation had been left mainly to Creoles and natives, as the occupation was too hazardous to health for the shrewd northerners to undertake it ; but Gor- gona and Panarad, were comparatively healthy, and here sharpers might take their stand and levy toll. The native and mongrel races were not bad enou<j:h nor bold enough for the situation. These could prac- tise extortion on a small scale, but the cocking of a pistol or the flash of a knife-blade usually brought reparation. Here indeed was a field for nobler talent. Hitherto, and for the last three centuries, dark- skinned carriers had been content to appropriate only a part of the effects committed to their care, and col- lect freight on the portion delivered ; but for the dt)uble- edged son of a higher order of culture and broader views such dealings were too tame. So he instituted a reform, weiLjhed bagijaoe at Gorijona or Cruces, and collected the frciglit in advance, ten or fifteen cents a pound to Panamd, then he could deliver such j)ortions as policy dictated, and keep the remainder having secured the freight on it in advance in case it should prove not worth the transportation. This system I afterward learned from sources unquestiona- 188 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. ble, had been regularly practised by men appearing to be New Englanders and New Yorkers from the es- tablishment of the steamship line. Passengers as a rule were helpless ; for when the steamer was ready, they were obliged to go on board, and their baggage was not worth the cost of hunting it. From the first appearance of foreign travellers in these f arts, it has been a notorious fact, and of current remark, that of all robbers and swindlers on the Isthmus white men were the worst, and compared to them the na- tives were humane, faithful, and honest. The steamers here took in coal and provisions, beef, fowl, and swine, flour and general groceries, oranges, pineapples, citrons and bananas, and liquors of all sorts. Quite a traffic was sometimes done here in tickets by brokers; some, to save, would sell their steamer ticket and take passage on a sailing vessel, which they afterward too often found of that class whose captain and officers were accustomed to take in so much wine and spirits that they would forget to take in any water. After a week's detention the steamer Panamd an- nounced her readiness to receive passengers, of which opportunity we all made qui^k avail. With our ef- fects shrunken to the easy c« .npass of our hands, we left our hotel, walked down the street, and out through the great gate, to the shore of the bay. There we found stationed just beyond the surf that broke upon the white beach, a row of boats ready to convey pas- sengers to the steamer, with porters and boatmen to carry us through the foam to the boat. Wading to the edge of the water the boatmen would stoop their ebony shoulders and back up to us invitingly. Women were picked up in their arms, and handled most ten- derly for such sooty savages. Sometimes stepping on a slippery stone, down man and rider would both go into the brine, amidst the shouts of the lookers-on. But this happened very seldom ; the wide, bare, leathery feet of the carriers were usually quite sure. REGENERATION AND BAPTISM. 189 Mounting a naked broad back, we were carried through the surf, dumped into the boat and rowed to the ship. On arriving at the gangway, we were obHged to show our tickets, every species of trickery being resorted to by a certain class on shore to get themselves forward without paying their passage. The passengers then formed themselves into a line before the purser's office window, and when all were on board rooms and berths were allotted. Thus in this Isthmus transit, we find the history of every man who made it a unique experience, wiich acted powerully upon the recasting of his charactor — a fit preparation for the baptism which was to follow his landing in Califoruiat I )l CHAPTEK VIII. TlfE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA-PANjVMA TO SAN FRANCISCO, We have had enough of action, and of motion wc, KiiUetl to starWoard, rolled to larlioard, wlicn the surge was seething free, Vlierc the wallowing mounter sjjuuted his foam-fountanis in tlie sea. — The LotoH-Enters. !!; ! While hero upon the Isthmus, and before proceed- ing on our journey to San Franrisco, let us glance at tlie route round the continent, that we may be better able to make comparisons as we go along. Tliere have been many remarkable voyages to Cal- ifornia by sailing v(\ssels, as well from Panaiiui to San Francisco as round Cape Horn; there have been many adventures connected with them far more thrill- ing than any that occurred in the voy.ages by steamer. Tlie voyage round the Horn, as it was called, did not differ materially from sea voyages elsewhere; that from Panama to San Francisco had at this time a marked individuality, a few exami)les of which I will give. The rickety schooner Dolphin, of 100 tons, left Pa- nanul in January 1841), with forty-five persons. After putting into several ports for sup[)lies, the passengers had to abandon the craft at Mazatlan and transfer themselves to the bark Matilda. They finally readied San Francisco on the 6th of May, having spent 110 davs on the vt)vaije from Panamd. But the career of the DoJpJiin was not yet at an end. Certain gold-seeking ""vaifs then in Mazatlan, anxious to reach California, bought and refitted her. (I'JO) SAILING VESSELS. m She sailed on the 15th of April with no less than six- ty-eight persons, among whom were some who in lat- ter years acquired more or less distinction in California. In the course of tlie voyage tliey underwent much sufterhig, scarcity of water contributing thereto. A number of the company, driven to desp(!ration, landed in Lower California, and made their way north on foot. Reacliing Rosario with the greatest diliicult}', they siglited two vessels, one tlie Dolphhi. and tlie otlier an Italian bark. The latter took some of tlic schooner's passengers away witli her, and a few of tlie land party returned to their own old craft, the rest preferring to continue their journey up the C( )ast. The latter after undergoing many hardships reached San Diego on the 24th of June. As for the l)()/j>lii)i, she went into San Diego harbor in a sinking condition, and was condemned and sold without more ado. One of her ])assenger3 had died on the voyage. The vicissitudes of a party on board the schooner San iilase'ia, of thirty-five tons, which sailed from IMazatlan in May of the same year, were in many re- spects the counteri)art of those suffered by the Jhl- y>///yi',9 people. Some of their number wtu-e taken off by another vessel at sea; the rest abandoned tlie craft on the coast of Lower California, and made their way on foot, carrying their effects on their backs, to Todt)S Santos, where they procured mules, ind on the 24th of May set out for La Paz. On the journeys they suffered greatly for want of provisions and water. Finally, on the 1 1th of August, they fell in with lOniory's surveying pai-ty at the initial point of the l\lexican boundary line. Meanwhile the San lllamia If ft San Jose del Cabo, and completed her vovai^e at Monterey, after the manner of the Dolphin, on the 1st of July. Another of the land journeys tip the peninsula was that of J, W. Venable, who came from Kentucky via l*anamd in 1841), and was a member of the state as- sembly from Los Angeles in 1873, and who travelled Ifi. 192 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. 1 on foot with two or three companions from Agua Dulce, on the coast of Lower CaUfornia, to San Fran- cisco, about twelve hundred miles. They had been obliged to land by reason of the slowness of their ship, scarcity of wa.^r, and stubbornness of their captain. They arrived at San Francisco before the ship. The latter took 166 days for the trip. But even crazy sailing vessels were better than dug-out canoes, in which some started on the long voyage from Panamd to San Francisco. Bayard Taylor states that in the early part of 1849, when three thousand persons were waiting on the Isthmus for conveyance to the new El Dorado, several small parties started in log canoes of the natives, thinking to reach San Francisco in them. After a voyage of forty days, during which they went no farther than the island of Quibo, at the mouth of the gulf, nearly all of them returned. Of the rest, nothing was ever heard. On other authority, we are informed that twenty-three men left Panamd on the 29th of May, 1849, in a dug-out canoe, for San Francisco. None of these madmen ever proceeded far on the road; neither did many of them ever return. Returning to our voyage by steamer. "Ah!" ex- claims the enthusiastic lover of California, immediately his foot touches the well-scrubbed deck of the Pacific Mail steamer in Panamd bay, "such is California, such the superiority of the new over the old. As the Atlantic st-jamer is to the Pacific steamer, as Aspin- wall is to Panamd, so is your cold, dull, eastern coast to our warm, bright, western coast." In due time a steam tender conveyed travellers from the company's wharf to the steamer at anchor some three miles away. On account of the tide, which rises and falls about seventeen feet at neap, and twenty-two feet at spring tides, the tender can float at the wharf only twice in twenty-four hours. Low water spring tides lay bare the beach for a mile and ofti tics, trail) then soon adop; on til oftlu .steam ticket on bo; v.rty rocurr Califoi (lotonti sciigerf a of the <'aino ( "lljoy i sense o the est TJiere i Isthmus the trav Much than on an; large passenge «pwt it s til is reeni sliakiiicr I so many i Loungi tlio upper j'l all its s ^vith the t surface ol distance, t t'AU I^E-EMBARKATION AT PanamX. then stepped fr„„, «,? ca„ t fi**"/'"", • l^^se.ifrora S'|on on board the steanr TJ u '"''"'■' "'"' '"-'■« adopte<l ,„ consoquence f *'i 'f '"■••a"genient was "" the 15th of Anrn 18.?fi l^ •''""' "'»<=S broke Z 'f the armbal a.sii?ed 250 J-r ^ r'"'"'' ""-' "^g'"-^ ^toamsh.p /«;„„,> while tlev^'''™'''''^'''-"'" the tickets at the Panama ,1 ^ *"'''' Procurin.r their "" both sides beTrknl 5 ''"''• " """''«•'■ of person, '^rty was alsoKred irr'''''*^'- Much Z? rccurre, of Vh scenes^,a '! '''''"''''• "T" «vo7a . f ahfornia in future tZe ^^''^''t'^u*" ""^ fr<>m 'letention. Usually some tW ^f '"""^ «-ith«ut mongers were settled .^"Lir 'r;:^T'i "^^^^ "'^' P""^- "f tlie steamer, as the ba" n" f ,% -T *'"= »•■"'">« eamo aft, r the passen.S'sf t'l.t I'"'"''*' »'«' ">»ils ""joy another view of tS ° '"* ^}""'<' was time to »o"se of satisfaction and ;esTwh!;';*"P' "'«'''■• "-t !je es aWishing of one's self n*.''''™^' ""^''ed Jiei-e IS now „o more ehan L t,,*''l ""^ -J^-rter. Isthmus are past; a fortS? V*'' ^'"''"•■^ of the t'.e traveller Lis alm«uf e'eSS"". /' ^"•"•''. ""d Mueh I'leasanteronthePaJil- l°'^'"'J"'"-"<-v. t'an on the Atlantic, if fw ^VTS" """ally ; '^ larger and more comfortable rl'^'}^" "'^'n^ri passengers, 1 ke the Pie fi„ ■ "''" temper of the j;'et it seen,s almost hkebll^ "■'°"^''- ^" ""' "" t "s reen>barkati„n at Pan'n i />"" *'!" •'"•"■''«v "new jak.'.g up and re,«r^iS'';, 'i'''^'-' '^ ""■'' « Sonerii «' many new faces came Zu, " '™"''''™ ^''ere '".»" its glorious beauties t^ T"^ °'" before'y"" ' .,' 194 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. city of to-day, and the tomb-tower of San Gcr6nImo designating the site of old Panamd, which the bold buccaneers ravished with such a relish ; the hazy moun- tains beyond, with their curiously shaped crests — thus quietly watching the boats come and go, the fruit- venders dispensing their wares, the sea-birds circling round the ship, and turkey -buzzards solemnly sailing through the air; listening to the friendly waters which lap the smooth sides of our monster vessel, with the softly perfumed air that wanders objectless between the sea and the low-lying sky, there comes stealing m upon the senses a delicious repose. Up to this point, and for several months past, mind and body have been upon tlie rack about this California expedition. There were the preparations, the adieux, the embarkation, tlie voyage, the Isthmus ; then there is the remainder of it, the voyage up the coast, the landing, the new lif ■, with all its desperate ventures and uncertainties ; but here, for the moment, is perfect rest, earth, sea, and sky combining to intoxicate the senses, enrapture the soul, and overspread all with a sensuous tranquillity and calm. At this time the commander of our steamer, which was the Panamd, was that veteran of the Pacific IMall Steamship Company, Watkins, called commodore ; and among the five hundred and ninety-four passengers were Mr Hutchins, Mrs Davenport, Gihon, Maguirc, and others notable in the annals of California. Lato in the afternoon of the 12th of March, the cluiiii from the buoy was dropped, and clearing the islan<ls, in an hour we came abreast of Taboga — to Panama what Capri is to Naples, but more beautiful. Oranges and tamarinds fringe the beach; the glass-green foliair;' of cocoa and banana trees sweep from the valley up the hillsides a thousand feet. Then we sailed clnwii past Bona and Otoque, rounded Punta Mala, sonic ninety miles southward from our anchorage, and were fairly out at sea, with the warm bay of Pananul, and its quaint, old, dreary town, wakened once a century Jiidies. "opolizc on boar f'f card I^ants CO ^^anies Three ei hive socia possible, ^rasp up( the right touching ON THE PACIPIO. ^7 a Pizarro a M ^^* sliower attended us. TW P"*' "«'>' « «mndcr n-ily rain and Ji.-J.tnin,, . 5 T'^ "° *'nd to speak nf P«.h Waste, „„ electrical wL clc '"P' *'W> ^""P- 7 ton-ents of Ji^ht streami, ff'"''; ""^''"■•'Panicd rowed from hori^Sn tozS' V I" ^"''^'"'^ «%-f"r- tremes of alternate pitch vwl I P' '"'t>^''*n tlie ex- ?4tno^;-rS""^^ Ven.guas,Tt:nd™c.:'tt'r "'« P-^-nto^ „f S oa,ni„„ la.iI^.alo;<X*„: «' g-^nder "x-untalnf tlio chariot of Poseidon S J ''•'"'' ^"te"^. like "f the monsters of th "'/""" ''°"n<l "^ myriad? "» eve,7 side, witl tt til' T""*^ 1"'' S-"^" ^ l"jed and the load before „f ''T' ""='""<' """'ir! and observation seemed T ""* •>'''' P"* on time "'f «ea. Gossipstor,! *° <'^P«'«" with the eJpaS pater familias grewTocuTd . ' TT' '^"»'<^<' «<"-eriv: p'mfort, reading ISZil *"i*'°" '"""^d towafd '"p Pitoliers of ce^ pu'ch r"w '• ^''"""ts nJxed 'aAes. Gamblin,. Xb ■ !? «"=>-ewith regaled the n"Poli=!ed the sa o°o'n b ' t '" '¥ earlier voyages mo - board the 00^™'^;!"='''^,''-' ^^'^^^ "' card-playing in the sf!f ' •^^'^ tln'rewas plentv l'a..ts could p,?,ble to tbit*?-''"''"''- ^''""■^ the occu Ka.ne, obtaiLc on capXn't'T"*^"'' ""<' W Tl.ree evils the law .eeurn!; >"'''■• "'"' flight '"». drunkenness and f . P'"'^'^*« to control tramb P'-«'ble, sliould let theSvu'"^' ^' '''^'' ^° «»* "« g/aspupon him but t„ prew? ■ *'??• ""^ place its '--.Which the law iZ^t^be^^Z:^ 108 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. injury to another is a legal wrong whose proper prov- ince it is the law's to check. With diminished at- tempts at religious proselyting, a laissez-faire system in personal morals, and less political engineering, our civilization would speedily assume fairer and purer proportions. Let parents and teachers build up them- selves and the young in the strength of personal re- sponsibility and moral rectitude, for in no other way can certain evils be overcome ; then we may leave law for thieves and murderers. On the steamer, bets were made on daily distances, on the time of arrival at any point, on the height or weight of any person or thing, on the time in which coat and boots could be taken off and put on, and on anything that hap- pened to strike the fancy, however absurd. During the long voyage there was ample time to take a survey of the past, to reckon accounts with providence, to apply the touchstone of experience to natural qualities; a farther vision opened to the ejc, sight was not bounded by the horizon. The im- prisoned traveller saw clearly back to his boyhood in a swift series of pictures like those which flash upon the brain of a drowning man ; and when his thoughts were turned toward the future, it was with a clearer and more discriminating survey than any hitherto made. In these early days of California voyaging, there were always two or three among the passengers wlio set up for geniuses, self-constituted court fools. Usu- ally they were young men rustically or provincial ly bred, who were now for the first time absent from home, and who seemed to feel that the time and place had arrived in which their talents should unfold. They sought fame in various ways — by much anil heavy walking about the ship, by scowling, by swag- gering, by boisterous talking and coarse laughinjjj, and by practical jokes played to the infinite disgust of their supposed admirers. Sometimes they were joined by brazen-faced or ambitious young women, ^•OTUa TEALVIKO SCnoOL and sets Wnnl^J u ^ '^ o«.H„ .„4?4:,tX:S^^^^^^ vie «,eH each lo the refined and ,„„!•*•*''"'*% '""nspiruou., from which there C^nTeTl'T^^ «" '"AiS; Wcas torture Of oU ai '^^^^po tor days anr? «r^ i greater part of til™ t^T''*' •'^««P«ons ; bv if th! well behaved, Z ^ZT.^'^ 'i'"'^'' o"-'! r^and circumstances. ^ ""'^^^'^ the most tryino- tiers, no band of inarhM-. ° Wnpany of coiir f-amed to look indSn^iv"" '%"""''*■ "^ solZra '"-e ealudy faced an a^"'L"" ''<>''">. could W -Hi ""'^nt adventurers riei^V""' '"'' ''>««' >'»»"« Ti^y were men ) '^""'^ ^""'^ «very nationality "'"self was not conS?' a^ ^T'""? *''« P<>«»ei<^r ""ts are intensified or „MV ''«™'<'Ped. General ^-omes meaner, th^WtLe^'™*!!' "'^ mean „?„ -y become angelic, o'lauttftttt """ ^'?"" utptjis, accordmg IC 198 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. i:ll! to his moral anatomy or the chemistry of his compo- sition, and the action of environment upon it all. The prevailing winds along this coast are southerly during summer, and northerly during the winter months ; so that after leaving Punta Mala our captain kept well in shore, which here is high, and hold, and covered with rich foliage down to the water's cdga. Passing Punta Mariato our course was still due west, until we cleared the palm-covered island in the vicin- ity, uninhabited save by monkeys and birds of bril- liant plumage, when we took a more northerly direc- tion along the shores of Nueva Granada, Costa Rica, and Nicaragua, over whose lakes and rivers Gil Gon- zalez and his crew crept so cautiously. The second day saw us off San Juan del Sur, where those who made the journey by way of Nicaragua took ship for San Francisco. By the Nicaragua route passengers disembarked on the Atlantic side at San Juan del Norte, otherwise called Greytown. Stepping from the ocean steamer on board a steam river craft, they ascended the San Juan river to the Machuca Rapids, where they landed and walked a portage of about a mile, while the lug- gage was conveyed up the rapids in bongos manned by naked, long-haired, tawny natives. Above the Machuca rapids, smaller steamboats carried them to the Castillo rapids, where there was another por- tage of half a mile. Then taking another and a larger steamboat, they continued up the river to Saii Cdrlos, crossed Lake Nicaragua to La Virgen, and thence proceeded overland by mules, or on foot, to San Juan del Sur on the Pacific, where they reeiii- barked on board an ocean steamer for San Francisco. The whole distance is about 165 miles, though in- cluding the bends in the river it is oftener reckoned at more ; 75 miles on the river, the same on the lake, and twelve or fifteen miles overland to the ocean. By the Panamd route, before the building of the rail- THE NICARAGUA ROUTE. ' tt'- wl,„le distanefwaf?!. ?"?'^°'^'■='Nicaral"^I• l.an by way of PanamT T,"-* ''"°? ""«» 'hoC 1855-57— the timrn" «i-k f "^'"^ '" '"tcr years— which IhaveX naSd'-r "^"'''-'^ ^p"^ this series. His ili-Xfd J? T*'""" ^'^'''e of tmns,t co,,,pa„y.s river a Jl^' °I "-"""^^"tins the t» li.s rum; for by stopnlf «,» f If' '^""'"''"tod passengers to and from cllff^ ^'"■*'"''' '™"«it of d'lmved himself of t " oSv ^""' '•>' ""'^ "'"te- he - inned daily by S rt.- '"''"'' ''''"™k3 bullets-witl, foreign rwukk r**'"?', '""' ''"^ti'e was the roused veSge™f tlT''"'''"''' *° ^'"^h aio„rsr™s^;t'd-™ Cbagres and across ?o Pa' ^"^°"*^*'«'" "P the « an old Simish town com '« ^T ^''*" '^^^ Norte '>"" and thatched iS^s „! » °f about fifty bam- >»onts of later date, confainTnl »n!" .'''"«'«d tene- I wnte an extren.ei; Sd "S„t *^" *"«« "f wMch mndred. The towri isX„t 'Y"^"'"''™ of about five ^r a long narrow sTn> "of tdT'"^'"™*'"™-^ Arenas, whioli from thJ stLm . T'™ <« P^nta 'slaiKl than a cape, T « s 2 ''' ,""'''' """■« 'iko an and uuhealthful and til """"""^"'g country is low tufted grass and llrgrowttr-^'"?'^ '"attid w I smooth-barked vineSSTree T,fY ^'* '"■•^* »f gators, and monkeys claim? /"^^ey-'jumrds, alii- -liiough steam was Pmr.l« "J"> ment ot the countrv «f the §an JuanXr'trs™ ^^'^^ *■>« «^«S tl.an in journeying ot th? OhT'''^ V'" '^"™f»rt vhcel boats plied lom raoid i!^^' ^""'" stern- '»te; into them we^eTrfven nJ"^""'' '^"^ «>« ariven promiscuously, men, 200 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. women, and children of all classes, black, white, and mulatto, and herded like cattle without privacy or restraint, without rooms or berths. Thus were the tired travellers kept for two or three days and as many sickening sleepless nights; the decent and re- fined portion continually hearing the vile language of tlie obscene and blasphemous. Some there were, however, who could forget their discomforts, and lose themselves in the contemplation of nature's magnificence. Canopied by broad-topped trees, slender and white-limbed, with their bright fjliage fluttering like spangles in the sunshine, by lofty palms whose tasselled branches bent gracefully over the banks- dow i to the water's brim, passing Arcadian isles rich in tropical plants and perfumes, the frouzy boat with its confused cargo of panting gold-hunters, wound with the winding stream, round among snags, and shoals, and rapids, up and onward toward the empire of their gilded hopes. Dark, deep-red lignum vitaB and caoutchouc, bananas and plantains with their long smooth leaves, and scattering sugar-cane with high tasselled crests, shelter lovingly the mammoth red and yellow flowers that fringe the stream. Thousands of black, brown, and gray monkeys hold their conventions on both sides of the river, and make their exhibitions on the trees, leaping from limb to limb and catching and swinging themselves violently, suspended by the tail, grinning and chattering, and screaming in jubilant mockery to the pitiful dirt-diggers, in whom they seem to recog- nize a degeneration of their own species. Surely they of the forest are fittest and will survive. At an island eighteen miles from the bay, whose keeper had a small white neat board house and a garden, the steamboat stopped to wood. Ascending the river, nature spreads out in broader and ever increasing sublimity. The foliage assumes statelier proportions; the forests are grander, and the mountains higher. Pendant from the limbs of tall O" THE WVEE SAN WA^. ^ tree to tree in irracofnlf f ^ ''°'''"'' extendi,,,, fr„,„ emllya.thrin^trWrd/:ft,"u T''" »''>•«--.:? «■'-% of o,,,lles3 color IVi^^f''* P'^'-'-K" ""J «weot ;vl..eli is tl,„ brigh(cri,i ,?^"'''T™""«»™»■>g At'c 'r''' "' W^k- ''^ ^ it«l"ng.fau. about onTliffitytanl'""? ?""<' ^^^WIo. of "ew by an old ruinTfortil *','''•''"."''"'«''"'' Ml l'rese,,tcd formidab eM,nSt^^^^^^ >■» ifapaln,y day of tlio river. Ti,ou„l. E "ri "",!"'>"<"}' ascents pement tl,ere are sections „f KT"^ "C''"''k and 13 quadran.-ular tl.ml f ■ '" ^'""e- In sl,aDe it embrasures on eitl,er side ^w\l^ T '^f '''«''' ^'th tbo first section, are Zl ,>,n * "''■ '?'"' a'*^" «'itl,in "■■e dark vaults connectd bv ^ ' ""'' '" *''« "'terior were several hotels at Cast^lorj '^^S^'^"- There times rested there for thrS'f "^ !««««'««« some- ^'^TX:Zfl 'f r *h^ ""» dwindles to low at the Outlet o/ Lak ' Nrr^uf 7 ^' ^^ C^"-'" fi'rt, snnilar to FoH CMtmo^« ' "'r," * dilapidated Between the fortress a^^ lak??'" '^ ''"^'"Wable. Ut N^ small thatched t': " " *°'^" "^ ""-"t f ''t^^rS ~h7„Se e^ - sublimity. Icnsfth by sixty miles n width ^* '''"' ""<' """^ m *;;d crystallin.f basks undift' tn"^**^, '^''^■''°«ed P^ple tone, and from its , weir ^T' '^i' "' 'ivid niountains lift the,„"elit Zf"-- f""'"' '"»« and sm„k,„g volcanic peaks K;"*" J'"^*' thickened bv of the water is thSbert™;!.?"'" J?"' ^'-•^ ""*' Its twn, brother Mad^™^ f ''""'° Onietepe, with -e four and fiv^ SSd teb'"""/,'"!*'' "e^^ "'e lake, and whose Smf! "'"^ "'« ^"''faee of ■early forty ,«iles. 0„7t, w °'' "-' *' '^''' '« S', a dirty little town with TJ " j^"'''' '^ '^i'Km with a dozen dirty littje tlv- 202 THE VOYAOE TO CALIFORNIA. eras, where passengers feed, and swing their hammocks for the night. During the day one may bathe here in safi'ty, as it is said tiie aUigators frequent this |K)r- tion of the lake only during the night. Very kmd of the alligators. Across the narrow strip of land, the only bar to un- inteirupted water communication bi'tween the two oceans, travellers proceed on mules and donkeys, women riding some siile-ways and some astride. The ride is delightful. Half the way the road is level and straight, covered by a dark forest so dense in places that there seems scarcely standing room for the trees ; and the interstices are so filled with matted branches, leaves, coppice, parasites, and other vhics, as In places to prevent the sun's rays from ever touch- inix the ground. The remainder of the road winds through rolling hills, then scales a lofty mountain, and descends to the sea. Thirty board houses, shingled and painted, stretched along the shore of a small l)ay constitutes the town of San Juan del Sur, which seems to be a cross between Chagres and Asplnwall. As at Panamil, the shelving beach does not jiermit the small boats to approach nearer than about twen- ty-five yards from the water's edge, and passengers nmst be carried aboard on the backs of the boatmen. Hi' re steamers anchor about one hundred and fiftv yards from land. A hundretl miles north we pass Realejo, one of the coal stations of the Nicaraguan line. The harbor is a good one, being an indentation of the shore line with an ish id at the entrance. Three miles from the town, whic. consists of one-story tiled adobe houses, and contaii a squalid population of about four hun- dred person a dock has been built, to which ocean vessels may ) made fast. Thus the Central American coast is passed; and thus racing with the sun, down toward the equator, and up toward the pole, round by the southern cross, PASTIMES OP rA.c8KX0KR«. We Work our ^^ I V '"vciuc'u. IjovDra ufI. ■•o"*' Out and now ■-i-!l'"igto the iri„i,„t,„„„l .,,1 ?'""■" t" busi,„.„. "'■''"S™, drinking iooc ,m >' *'"-*■• '■'"""•■^'. »ucS the ,s;,ug<.„us traoTv- of i f^ ^.' , ^ "'"' """'Jf t„ tli,.», "".'I S,">U, filling i, ;"X *°'f'"- «-ith an.otln-st b, rW ,.^" t'."se sunsets ;rtu n/'",';""'^' E''"™- re u™ „,„,„ «,^ ,,„„1»'- _ B ,.>,K .„ig,,t p,„,„i-' ig <" the (,coan's brink if * "'" '^'^Y- I'au, ♦ '« plenitude of it"^,.' '"""'- «'"' fliM-s bark t ,^ -.OS the puny ^ffl,^ Xt t!"-"'-;'^ -"'^'- »• .i. b •bvergnig rays im.t,,nion.Wn *? """"'"' "'«' «-itb itl '■■■""tless iniigos, u.^rren 1 *"•' .''"'^•■<' ™l>"rs ,to ol-ervor. nte^; valrs hL?' ■ "''■•'S"">tion of ;^ ■ ™"' ti'eir author's deeliiJ „ j ™''>' quarter to 1^ departing gl„ries. I„'" L'^ ™*''' *« '"«"-e of . -""• •^"^^ixautJiors deolnm « j -^^.m^. quarter to ■1^ departing gl„ries. I„'" L'^ ™*''' *« '"«"-e of '■' '«'>'. -en in it, perfeetio^orrirt''' '"^''V "•"i IX the tropics, tile 9M THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. i I- ti I. vital power of the sun is modified by the humidity of the air which it has called up during the day, and which tinges the celestial blue with dark azure, fills the heavens with delicate crimson and roseate tints, and turns the sky into gleaming gold. Solar fires are reflected upon the surface of the agitated waters, and all the west is red with slain sunlight. The setting sun is almost always accompanied by clouds, which, owing to the curvature of the earth, though seemingly touching the water's edge, may be two miles above the ocean ; they are formed sometimes of ice and snow, and serve as specula in the display of those prismatic colors which illumine them as they wreathe th.emselves into innumerable grotesque pic- tures of mountains, animals, cities, and every form of imagery of wh.jh the mind is capable of conceiving. Ranged in the direction of the wind, in parallel grad- uating series one above another, they sometimes over- spread the whole azure background from horizon to zenith, and draw themselves out in long strips far away toward the dim, leaden east, each rank increas- ing m brilliance toward the west. They heap them- selves in huge billows of roseate vapor, or in mountains of sombre gray fringed with coppery crimson, and then go cliasing one another with endless evolutions and transformations along their blazoned course. Breaking into detached masses, they assume various forms, a grand old temple, with arches and colunms, from whose holy of holies flames the fiery orb as from the veiled shekmah, bathing the ocean in a halo of glory; a castle crowning a rocky clifi\ with turrets and battlements, with moat and walls and pennon- bearing tower; a magic city, with gardens, and pal- aces, and glittering domes and minarets ; forms of cool, inviting groves, majestic forests, meadows, and grassy knt^lls; home scenes, the house, the barn, t\\v table spread for tea, with the well-known forms of loved ones gathered round it ; the fancy-pictured gold land, whither tends every thought, and of which all SUNSET AT SEA. "P the .»toep'a«,e„T't™s' 'f"f-"^ '""'» ^S waters, ij usive Jftk^«\. 1! !^ * cascades of tuiuLV^ the inverted trees anH ^''*"'^ "" «^«Jr linVpid ^ ^!'"° ^on.; with htrrd 'f;:r^nr''f f^^^^^^^^^^^ c'ophante, hydras 1, "'' ""^stretched tail- ? '"'gfi..atio,. pe„ci?"""S ""^ heart can feel™ tJ,e wluJe from beliind an „™''r*5 '',*''« '"^m^^,^ all nLt "!'""•'' "ito brown Jv I, n! ' f* ^'°'<'t. and I • "orthward and soutI,w„r) " "''"^e and over «ky, hangs a gauzy "'7^'*^' "^'* ^^and olouds and »'>^esof^ft,«,i/J«.;.jn ,nany several blending "■'■«■ a plungf ;Yfe fn' "'"'"?' """ *•>« ^e-'s brink ffn stea'mei'rXS^-^ovvnj.and as tlfe £' vesem % yet glow; f^f^^^''^.'^; and while tife '""n the gray east, silentZ „? ,'^'"' f""»"-o fires r^«eps „p, coquetting wrtlff,"^ unobserved, the ,„«,„ '- -^- on.er e:L^;^Xwr s!!;l;'7,s 206 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. dignity upon the dancing waters, whose undulations transform her wake from a steady stream of molten metal to broken bars, as of a shining ladder leading heavenward. Therewith she pursues her modest way. The rising sun — paling the glories ot the southern cross, and as enchanting as the sunset but for the ab- sence of evening vapors — few lovers see. Those to whom the sweet joys of courtship are denied, the married, and the hopelessly incorrigable, seek other pastimes. Amateur theatricals and sham trials are instituted, in which no small amount of talent and wit are often displayed ; stories are told ; politics, science, and religion discussed, and home, and California, and gold-getting talked about Some western adventurer holds breathless a crowd of listeners while he spins a yam of thrilling deeds among the savages, and of hair- breadth escapes; then another undertakes to cap the story by improvising a more startling one, and so the fun goes on. The 4th of July, Washington's birth- day, and Christinas were usually observed; on Saint Valentine's day a post-office would be opened, where a list of names was posted, and missives dealt to merry recipients. Some endeavored to sketch the coast as they sailed by it, others to cut its outline from paper. Suddenly the steam-whistle, with a long shrill blast, sounds the alarm of fire, and the terrible cry is taken up and thrown from one to another until it reaches the uttermost parts of the ship. Pale faces flit to and fro, and trembling knees stagger no whither. For a moment all is hubbub and confusion; but soon every man is at his post; the hose is un- coiled, the water is turned on, the decks are flooded, the life-boats are made ready and the life-preservers dragged out. Some stand by, ready to lower the boats, and others with pistols and cutlasses place themselves on guard prepared to strike down any wlio should attempt to jump into them without leavi; others with uplifted axes seek the thrice dreaded foe ^M ALAKjf. *o cut away thp r-;. i '"' pump, ^'.ne Jook aCihe"" *'''"'' " ''««<'«■ Some ^?nger^ i„^ a fire bXtl Sf",'? ^o^ain of thet^ was three-foU • fi!t^ •! ^^^ benefit of fM^ J • • a...use„,e„t. '^^''' '"''™. and mmiyl^X^ , » ^^emng bestows by far rt^ . , rolled' ^Tr"' tweniyXt T*- 'Ifs'^*''"' h"«rs aft!. *?P' "■" ™ff'ncati„g b rea«, f ■" *'"' *»''""? is alter the sun, and the fresh^ f ''*■>' ^'"^ westward water t„ the parehed ton't T? '"^ "''"■ ^^'eon'o as gathernig lustre with the^ ,^1 • '^""^ with stars tile great concave fmm\^^"''"« "'g*", and liZf; S^nSVlSred!!:-^^^^^^^^ I^^'^f ™ys--,s now lun>inou w th „,"'' T"^'^'^ ''J' "'« S '« the romance of sea-vov3 '^^'■"'''«"* «■•«• This Occasionally the encn^'-« J'' "'? P-'^'O' of trave to renew the wadding rf l^Pf '° repair a valve now beam— by which^l i P'"'™, or to nut i , ' a f ' , n 208 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. tkr times preach, if not, the purser would read the Epis- copal service. Every few days, after the waiter had put the rooms in order, the captain and steward made a tour of inspection, looking into each room as they passed by, while the waiter followed in the rear. The kitchen of a Rotterdam housewife is not more brightly polished than the cook's galley on inspection days. Lighted up at night, to one viewing it from a distance, the steamer looked like a fairy floating palace. Some few were suffering from Panamd fever, and one poor fellow, a young man in the second cabin, died. It is a sad sight, a burial at sea ; sad m its mo- nitions, and sad in its suggestive retrospections; sad in its summoned thoughts of hopes cut off, of riven hearts and wailing homes. The body was sewed up in a canvas shroud, and a shot and some pigiron at- tached to the feet ; it was then placed upon a plank, one end of which was extended over the ship's side ; the steamer was stopped for a moment, a prayer was read, the signal given, and the body slid off into its liquid grave. Skirting the low, abruptly changing shores of Guat- emala, its huge volcanic mountains are seen in dim outline rising from the plain of foliage to a height of thirteen and fourteen thousand feet, with their grace- ful cones seemingly smoking within a veil of mist. Here we met the steamer with eastward bound pas- sengers. The ship's officers were looking for her. At first nothing was seen but a column of black smoke rising from below the horizon, then the smoke-pipe, and beneath it an ink-spot not larger than a pea-pod, which stood for the hull. This black spot gradually enlarged and assumed shape, until it loomed high upon the water, a bellowing monster flaunting its finery not a hundred yards from us, with its decks crowded with men and women waving hats and handkerchiefs. Guns were fired, and a boat lowered to make the ex- changes There is much that is grand and impressive THE MEXICAN COAST in such ft meetiniT • , **-' s'^em to sit so prouWr T ^"^« ^n ocean «f seen from «„^f i ^'^' ^^ ^wd it so ?Xi ^^^ainer ^lottest paf t of ?M ?^ ^^^^^"aiitepec we enf doice fir l;rf ^^^^^'^Vand tCLf "' ^^^° ^^^ this, had o^Tfi7L^«^^^^^^oss merrdL„"s"r/"r ^"^ "re in them tV "^ '^^ «ou^d take nn% ., ^'^^' ^^^ ^ eu;se",Jv%T'^ ^^ot^o^et''? ^^^^^^ a bni' whlnj y' ^^'" upon u«»- ih \/ ^ languor. Came in si„j,t tv. ""■«<'tLi„„g tto right von t^ T ""^ '^ft. anclat "ffr'T^ *« and Vou will . . *"® buoy. XToto i ^ *"e »W mllt" ?. "?*«'• place of exftn^ ^""^ "'■'"'»<' '1^ 210 'XHE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. is another entrance, which, though deep enough, is too narrow for safety. This port, the best on the r/estern coast of Mexico, and the half-way station between Pananid and San Francisco, can safely harbor five hundred ships. It is part of an inunense basin cut in granite rocks — a coarse-grained granite like that of Fichtelbcrg and Carlsbad, toothed and rent like the Catalonian Mount- serrat. Its shores are so steep that vessels can lie {ihnost under the chaparral that overhangs its banks. Surrounded by mountains rising on every side from six hundred to three thousand feet, the listless ocean air seems inadequate to drive out the pent-up exhala- tions from an undrained swamp filled with decaying vegetable matter ; and the town, which has the name of being the hottest place on the route, is considered quite unhealthy. For weeks the tliermometer stands at 120° in the shade at mid-day. In early days a gap wa? cut in the hills to admit a current of air ; it was also used as a roadway, and thf; great gash is pointed to travellers as a specimen of Spanish energy and capal)ility in the olden time. On a strip of soft white sand encircling the bay grow cocoa-palms, their long green arms and smooth stems bending with fruit ; and the amata, or tree of love, offers its umbrolla form and magnetic influence to all who choose to avail themselves of its ravishing shade. Time was when this port was more famous through- out tlie world than that of New York, or any otlicr along the border of the firm land of America, if we except Vera Cruz and Panamd. Under Spanish ruL , it lay in the line of travel from the Philippine islands across Mexico to Vera Cruz, over which route annual caravans of loaded mules carried the wares of Cljiria, Japan, and the Spice islands, thence shipped to Spain. Enjoying a monopoly of the Manila trade, it was fre- quented by galleons which annually dispensed their rich cargoes to merchants who flocked down from the ':;apital to make their purchases, and who at the same ACAPULCO. dred leagues, travellT„n?.i'''''° ,''''''»" «"« hun- ;"»"'?> The road is ffi;> Paek-muie, and saddle »"d.ts than that from Mi*"' ^^Z"''"'"""*"'' h *'""• "'« ^ame winding wthl an *f " '" ""-^ ''i'''''-- conveyance over them'b^„„ e,nnl "^ .'"""' "■«»»« "f tamed m the days of C„S ^ ^■''' """ «>«* "b- t-n Sn*!;1sl^'~ a busy population of fif. ^ "f three thousand. Tim ^, i ." ''f"'^*^' '"ert town I'ut the business h nm^}J^^^t^T '« h«ter„„ene u" ""d Europeans. ICl^'l" *''" 'i""''' "f A»,eri™ns of animated traders olfi''ft'' P'-"*^' *here .-rmn"' :'"o" seen, and on i.eTarml *?'''• ™/' S^'-'We'^^s a ' ;i« from it are situa ed h™ L"'''"?".'" ^"■"'*' ''ad- tilod adobe, stone and J j ^."'''■'''a''tial houses „f »"d bc.fore;hich dei-rf "' "'"' P=''"-Svo: nnd rain, The shops S, ' /"■"•"■"t^ftion fro„, su^' are da.=,lingjy white'^'i'l rVr'-"^"-<'wellin"" "'■*-■ y The tun,blinlQls of '"'"*'"■""• ""at am <cup,ed, give the appeararce J t^-^V^nts long u„- «-'s a mnnature ship to assist tl^ fi-o,„ the ceili,,,. It was half past eighnS, nl "^^^ "^ "tailors! JWeh I9th when the /^„„„,; « ?", *'"^ «^«>ing of P"'<o bay, and there we mS Id . 1''' ^^ '•» Aca- Soaroely does the steamer e™l1 ""td noon next day. rrounded by canoes ladeT with f"'"!"'' ^^'"'<' 't is . nnmg from various parts „ftf 7'*' "'"* «'""« 212 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. shell-work, and are often paddled by a woman with a cigar in her mouth, while a man or boy attends the floating shop. Traffic is conducted in this wise: Ranging themselves along both sides of the steamer tlie dark-visaged venders lift up their e3^e8 and voices to those above inviting trade. Armed with a basket or mat bag, to which is attached one end of a long line, they throw the other end up over the guard. Whoever wishes to make a purchase takes the line, draws up the basket, and puts into it a piece of money. Then loweringr it to the boat and intimating what is wanted, the seller takes the money and puts m the basket its equivalent in wares which are then drawn up on board by the purchaser. Tired of this you may amuse yourself by throwing dimes or quarters over- board, and watching the naked tawny-skinned urchins ; who float about the ship as in their natural element, dive and scramble down into the transparent water ten or twenty feet, and come up porpoise-like, puffing and blowing the water out of their heads, with the glittering coin between thumb and finger. Seldom or never do they fail catching it before it sinks very far, and holding it up to view for a moment they throw it into their mouths and watch for more. These boys will thus remain in the water for hours without any support save that which a slow fin-like motion of arms and legs gives them, and despite the sharks to which one of them is now and then sacrificed. To him who has made the voyage, the bare mention of these little incidents will call up a thousand associa- tions which will enable him in some degree to live again the time that formed so important an epoch in the life of every Californian. While the steamer is taking in coals, cattle, fowls fruit, and water, which occupies several hours, you may if you like go ashore in a boat and visit the town, less than a mile distant, in a recess of the bay. Near the landing, and on the shady side of the plaza, you will find spread out on tables and on the ground "UMPSES AT MEXICAN UFR fioad a necklace, at the 1ml • thr„ws over ,0'*;' «'t, but should Jou et TrL""" '"■'''"S. it is a C «..ne far before the co4e eoW iV"" *'" "<>' m' J lesires a present in return a'' '?'"".*' *■»•'« u,, a, j lx= served bv a female iJ^' ,^ ""o <Hnnw usLi t '■""k and virago At -T^'l ''''^'touratcur atot -■'"ke.andsip^Ta^i"?" '""ngo i„ sha^ n"!'' substantial .til), Ihoulh "rruU '^t'""'' ''^id I J sonod by one „r two eonimnL /' '^ "^ual'v "arri "Miers with heterogenoTun,? "^ '^''^'^ barrfCd ■■«s anns. In a clSir "nZf • "'" "'"' "'"'ost wor , '"wn there is del^XJT^ **'" ^'''oam back of Vt tl'f stand on he S'^l'' bathing, but thet,^ riS" ";»ko it an awkard posi, ilf '" '""«'• -^^>^tu Pl-'ced in. Oecasio,,olf " " ""x'est man t ''7' ™ <■„ previous to our arrival « '" *""' '■'''»^''«l tc\ - been contributed ?or h 1 reli:;? ''?''"«' <'*- 214 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. cjast, and others with intentionally running his sliip ashore. All the upward bound steamera were crowded, and were unable to take on board the shipwrecked passengers. C. J. Dempster, J. B. Crockett, J. Mc- Dous^al and wife, and thirty-four others, men, women, and children, succeeded in securing passage by the Panamd; the rest were obliged to wait until a vessel could be sent them. There were in all about eisxht hundred, passengers and crew. Four hundred had taken passage in sailing vessels and steamers for San Francisco; the others were in a destitute condition, and subsisted on contributions. There was much suf- fering among the women and children durini; their march through an inhospitable country, and while at Aeapulco tlicre was nmch sickness and several deaths. After some delay, the clipper ship Nortlieni Lifjht was sent by Mr Vandewater, agent for the company at San Francisco, to their relief. Stockton matlo a movement in their aid, and Mayor Harris of San Francisco called a meethig on the 29th of Mai-cli — rather late, one would think, but better than never — to devise measures to render them assistance. Many were inclined to censure the company for their dila- toriness in despatching them conveyance to San Fran- cisco. One hundred and twentv thousand dollars, it was stated, had been paid by the North America's pas- sengers; through no fault of theirs, they had been thrown on a foreign and unhealthy shore, and now tlie company were loth to spend a few thousand dol- lars to save their lives. Next day we were at sea again, carrying with us, as it would seem, half the inhabitants of the ocean. M^'riads of flying-fish skim over the smooth sea, flash- ing their silver tinted wings as they skip from wave to wave, or break cover and fly away. Sharks dart by, leaving, if it be night, a phosphorescent wak(\ broken and luminous like fiery serpents; porpoises and dolphins leap and gallop along, and play about the ship, following in its wake, or trying the metal MEXICAN rORTd. oHheir heads acrainst fJ,«f r ., '^' -go turtle is Cl'ati^'i 'r"*"^*^r- »-« a 'uge, snorting bJackfisr^^Jnl. •^''^^r' ^'""^^^r a ^;':^- '"g and 8Woopi,MM fj'^' ^^'jterspout. S.a-birds «iHps wake for tJ,iirC£t'"'^ «"ther wateh til iiiore are tJiroo Mov,' „ «»cl the gulf of cXnia^aTtKl^''^"^^^-P"ieo « earners son.etin.os Ch M.^^^'^A *^'^ ^^^^^nd hundred ivilvs nortii of A T"^^"^^"' »«'"o four ^- n, opposite Ca])e St lZ, ! , ^'1 1' ""''' ^^^^^^*^- aJ^ove Sun Bias. Manzlnni ^ ^'""^^'^d "'iJes or so tl.roe huiidrod soverd l ' i"" f -"^ ^'^''"'^'* <>^ P-rhans P-t of CoIuna:Tte'"; ^ "'l'^^^^'^^- tie sT J'^dts inland. On n ^ t^ ^^^^^ seventy fiv.. "oarly alivajs oivoroW S '°''' "> 'icisrlyt is Trc. Man-,./ ida,.:;^-'^ -f '-»«;. L»vi„^ '^ ;';-' ™,)ciy t,.at^;^:;f , ; , X ;:, 'r, '"""■-' ^ot l';<-t">^«)ue port of MaLt^^™^'' "'«'"»d it. Th "tl'erwise unbroken swX.? t," '"'*1«' f'"'" the '\';|eh tJ.e sea dashes t'V "^"""1 ■•""' '"tweon *'"'". is safe, ex-ccS from , 'iT"- ^''« ""ehora.^e P"aehing the l,arbjr the 1?.'."'*'"'*'' S^'''^- <>" a°P- ' '" «ie dark rod ohffs oL"T ?' '""'''"'' "'"' '»■■>"' K";en transparent waer7j„e;rr'.r''',,»""«3 the !■ eturc, with a dim back , 'o»n-l /"^ '''"' " *'''te J amtlan is the most imno'',S^t''M ■"'™"*''"' ""«• "'« Pae,fie, and displZ^?!- Tf '",?" «™i'»rt on ".mnerolal activity i ^' \,S '^T.f "'' ''^'*'"« "" 12,000 or 15,000, the climate" e'altlntl ''?"'"""" '^ "caJtii^, the liouses sub- 316 THE VOYAGE TO CAUFORNIA. etantial, and coated with dazzling white or straw color, and the streets clean. Crossing the gulf and continuing our course, on the 27tli we meet the steamer Neiv Orleans bound soutli. Past the surge-smoothed granite colunuis, caverned rocks, and high white beach of Cape St Lucas, and out of the intertropical regions, and the temperature changes ; particularly in summer, when the traveller leaves the warm southerly winds of the Central American and Mexican coasts for the cool bracing northwesters and chilly fogs of California. And with the climate scenery changes, and desolation now marks the border of our way, hitherto robed in re- dundant vegetation. The forest-clad Cordilleras of Mexico disappear and the treeless hills of the penin- sula come in view. Approaching the colder regions, the albatross turns back and we are met by myriads of Mother Carey's chickens, and graceful gulls which follow the shij) for hundreds of miles. The southern cross dips lower and lower until it finally disappears, and the north star rises each nijiht hiifher above the horizon. Droopmg spirits revive. White linens and blue flannels are packed away, and winter woolens and thick clothing substituted. The coast of Lower California as seen from the steamer, presents a series of openings and headlands, with now and then volcanic mountains, and unbroken plains of vast extent, reaching far into the interior, all basking beneath a fervent sky. In places are rocky steeps over which are scattered a few cacti and some distorted shrubs, with more robust vegetation back of all, and now a) A then a fertile-looking valley running inland. Tiie islands of Santa Margarita and Cerros lying near the mainland present rather an un- inviting appearance. The country, however, is more attractive on nearer acquaintance. And now our eager eyes catch the half-transparent hills of Alta California, but before we fairly reach SAN DIEGO. them we turn an^ « ^ ^'^ »■'« placed LnTfi "■'," t»-oaM,. whn'^t, *'" ?"»"'. ''^ «aiied into it % '"^l?"^ ^"^ ««, and tJ.lr -^^ \ "^"ver encountered M '' ^"^ "^ ^^'^ severe f ?^'"'' ^'"'uu-h oiir^ . % 'fc vvus cloo.l, • T ^^ Storms out in f^P'^'^^^^^P^ic vision fts fT' ^^ *^'^^ accursed 218 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. fill a prairie bison, the ship's bow pointed now upward toward the sky, now downward into the depths. Responsive to the sh?'ieking blast the phosphorescent waves reared tlieir crests on higli, clashed one against another, and breaking into foam shot brilliant streams of spray into the black air, like flashes of light from a luminous snov/drift. Fearing to be driven to de- struction before the wind, the steamer's bow was pointed athwart the waves, and tiiere in the teeth of the storm the utmost efforts were made to prevent her beini; cauyjlit and overturned in the trout^h of the sea. Returning to my berth, and bracing myself and holding on, I lay listening to the creaking timbers and straining joints, to the thud and rattle of the waters against the ship's planks, to the crashing of glass and crockery, and the clatter and bang of loose furniture and baggage, sent hither and thither by every lurch of the struggling ship, to the shouts of sailors, and the nnngled moans and blasphemies of passengers ; watchhig through the slow hours for day. listening for some break in the beating macliinery which should leave us at the mercy of the waves, wondering if ever I should see the firm and beauteous earth again. Dawn brought only increased fury to the storm. No tables could be set that day ; indeed, there was little thought of eating, for long before the tempest had spent itself the ship was despaired of, and such passengers as were out of bed were beaten about like footballs. All loose canvas was torn to shreds, and boats were splintered and sent flying from their fas- tenings Clothes went a drift without their owners, and half-dressed men and women staggered about in dismay and confusion. Heavy seas were shipped in rapid succession; the wind and waves swept over tlio deck in a hurricane, and to add to our distress the ship, though comparatively new, had parted lur seams, and was leaking badly, so that all the pumps STORM ON THE PACIFIC unfa 'eZ,t:r r*. ^-« -- - " bottom of watery sulehes 17 '^"^i '"""'^"'^ "* tl,e her beam enda, sea;^,e„ cfu„rt„ H, ''' • ""?"* ''"«''' »» iivea """'g to the rigg,„g fo^ (.,,^5^ %-.f(irr w,etr g::^„x ■''/"^ *>-'«•-* «""(! had increased until ttetZ/"'' '*'=''*'.>• "'e '"|ig imrscd for wortl.v n. ■ "P'f'et' sea, in wrath ''"Shty unrest; therrJsSr:;"' ^''"°'' 't^elf i„ ^ tiio .stonn culminated in a fre.T" f".' "''"' " how], away toward the west u fder t "T n^ ^V' ^'"^"'S fi<;;g clouds, lookin,, quickh w, n •ir''^""' '^'4 t»nlv balanced herselfCsome f' ' ■''^ *''''P '"""'™- air, looking far away, as IrT tif"* """8 '^"^ high in «here the low scwhUh^ivI '"•>''' 7"''' '''■''"h, to where air and water wlpnedX^ > """"" ""*■ «'aand sky were one, 3 I ± '"'r'' *'«^"'"' ""d sierra a succession of nJli„„T. '^'';"' """"' high and splashing clift. Sfw ''^'^J «'a.ssy guI,h-3, perhaps, hundreds of nX^ "' they can,e, born ™hH,g after them, roar™ LTf ' ,T" ' "'""^a"'! ful as ,f to overwhchn us." TholiW "f""'' "™'h- I stood was no more to the , I ''"!' "" ""hich t" a whirlwind. Tl,en L i *°." * ''uzzin.. flv •"t" the deep smootl UnS"^"^ ''^™"""Sf ^>""^ "Pward, beheld on either T ™"""' "'"' '""1<"'S ""■""tain, with tremb n^ d ■ * '"•'*'"^' "'"'ten "aele, with aerriedu"^,if ".«"»<' «''*-""'^' Pi' - t"o„„|, and ahnost per^^ ic„ . " 'iTT'' ••"'" f'^" stieaked with stri„g/fi,i , ' ^ I J'^'^^'^'"'-" "alls t.ent avahanche leaped t o' ,b f, '"f-'.T* """'^^ hnpa- 'I'"." I'e laboring slip W ,w " ?i„"'' ^'^^ "''"' " "rish looked again u,,°, (,,'„ ,;^ '"; ' ce nmre uplifted, I -toll waves, beautiful " teir e " ""'"' !""' ^^a«s now r,s„,g V ,„ mountai s now n eT.-™''^'"'^ '"'"'^' then turning, surge meetin J sT. 'f """ P'ains terdance; and now come, t^ "." '" f"aH,ing c.-uii- '"« brine swifter;,: rDiitrtr'-T "'"-^^■ 'anas dart, and seizmg (,ho 220 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. chafing main beats down its wild roaring breakers, holds the crushed waves in fierce embrace while yet other howling gusts sweep over them, then relaxing, stirs up the levelled surface, smites the atrugglin<r streams into dust, and breaks the liberated waves into IVaojnients swirled off in surge-flakes into the leaden air. As I have before remarked, the petty annoyances of travel try temper and discover the varying play of light and shade in character. Now a storm at sea tries men's souls, and discovers to each the measure of his manhood, of his faith, of his courage and cal- lousness; discovers to him the realities of his religion, if he has any, the povert}'' of his hopes if he has none. And like all phenomena througliout the realm of na- ture, there are no two human cliaracters alike, and no two manifestations exactly similar under the influence of fear. In this instance, throughout the night, and during the greater part of the day, some slept and snored on, others lay awake in their berths, nmto, and a[)parently indifferent, others, greatly frightened, clutched their beds and groaned. Some, throwing themselves upon their knees, poured forth petitions to unseen powers, now in dismal howls and now in intelligible prayer ; others were so smitten witli cow- ard fear, so hopeless and helpless, as scarcely to know wliat they did, and mingling incoherent oaths and ex- clamations witli their pitiful cries, they looked ateacli other and shuddered, clasped hands convulsively, gazed beseechingly upon tlie merciless ocean, and let fly their thoughts back to tliehome thcv had left -and forward to the California their hopes had aspired to, and which now seemed a million of leagues awav. Not onlv did the storm severelv tax the strength of the ship, but it made such inroads upon the scanty fuel that there was gieat danger of our being left exposed powerless to the fury of the waves. Our captain therefore about noon this day, which was tlio 28th of March, came to anchor under the lea of Monterey. a low island, and aft., tu "" dence of the wind for over s^rt '^""'"g **« ™bsi- night oa^'et^'wltrf"^ "T^-^ i^if and anoth the iowerin, sCmZjTr.f" "' «- "o" Once more nothini, canTJ ! " *'"' ""qniot ocean' tie darkness and the t- m* ^ waters; yon f„„"5 ^ O, sinking ,s as the sii.l-;„ ? . * *"" "'aves ■ and . ,;; "'"f wave that striSmf„„"«° ''f F^^''^- ever3 '■■K locls upon the coffin ' *''" ''**'' '« like fa]f. ^^''''^C'&Z^r -" -- "er passion F'om the ocean the Cwl ''''"' .'"*" hazyCrDfe I"':;' '•ugged barren sea wa 1 /"*'' '«'''« like tSt ■ '1 1 ri F ■1 If:' 1 $ i w a, i 222 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. the sometime famous capital of California, which point we reached at nine o'clock that night. A shelving point, Phios by name, green with waving pines and terminating in black rocks, marks the ap- proach to Monterey bight, an indentation of the coast, scarcely to be called a harbor, yet generally safe f(jr shipping. Rising behind a town of five hun- dred inhabitants, of spacious well-built tiled adobes, intermixed with dwellings of wood, with government buildings, and a fort on an eminence near the water, is an amplutheatre of wooded hills glowing like an illuminated p"u»rama in the warm hazy air — the whole forming i ' ely and picturesque a scene as the sun shines on. ThK)Ugliout the next day all hands were busy chopping and taking in wood. Setting sail at half past nine we prepared with some nervous i/au'le de cocnr ft>r the last night, that most joyous of all nights on shipboard. By daylight next morning, which was the 1st of April, 1852, the bold rugged clifts of jioints Lobos and Bonito are in full view, the lonely Faral- lones stand sentinel on our left, while northward in the direction of Point Reyes stretch the high rockv ixalleries of the coast which bound the sea to its very edge. Slow ? The sluggish boat seems scarcely to move 1 The lazy wheels slap the water in aggravating dor- manc}", and between each step of the walking-beam you ma}' count a month. By far the longest hour upon the route is that when, with adjusted rigging and slushed masts and feed waiter and lut;<jfajje read\', we watch wath feverish impatience the slowly lessen- ing distance between us and the headlands. It was in order, the day before this last, for the captain's ftivorites to prepare a fulsome testimonial for gentle- manly conduct and able seamanship, to be publisheil in the daily journals on landing ; while those who fancied themselves to have been ill used might cliaiigc their muttering curses into bold charges, and talk SAN FRANCISCO. the eh„,,,,i, k„ betwoof tl rt- 1',"' '■"""'^' ov"" to s of tlie Golden GatP^il, . '"?.'' •^'uff-bouiul J,/ W K^ scream, then si,?,, e'/ a ,c t ,1""' 'i'" ^'''rti^'d "ow ,u,esce„t under anl ' ]"'' '""' ^■«""»- sa;id or" gauze, ehoer. fi,,", ' ^ oZT'' '"'"'^ "'■' ^ ■m K ."'""'•*''« "-"tor and T,^ ."/P"" «'« «!'ore <'"tl boats come al„n.r,i,f' ,, ''•■"""'crcl„-cf:, wave «'nyard to tl,o wharf ,° 1 *.'"^" ^'o i""vo ,l„wl!; Out of the pij;;-; : f„:'"-J"«™oy is done. ' '"'^ me of a glowi„./s°„ p f ■-"■ '"*" *'"= «oft war,,, .0 never Vict =,: ITSZ""""'"^' »«• "- "W from tlio tables with tl,!' f '"'f'^tiNg sn,e)ls "okroaebed cabins, aS hi dh.^'S'^r ''"«'• ^om j"d dishes, on to the firn, «rou^ "'"'.'•'^"ter of g„„ 'ah and clean linen, and ^iS, T'"' "'"' '»'" a «Kfast; away from tlie horriw! f ^' ?" "H'etizh... '■» osolo,,o^becp],aunt«l f n,f , '^^^ "^^ *' irh wS "«' "«'-se jesters, and selfis '^"'■"""'«'«l .wearers ami^ff 1 '''''"''"S "'Others i,d *"'''"'/'"' "'.""g -e so lately clo.:^n cd j r.'"™ ""'' *™Patio s'^ '"""g their thirtv-dWvn, "'"'"" '"'pes and peril ^-«-. The bond T.S'Sottor^"' '•",' *'- 1 equality accideiitaJly ill 224 THE VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA. made is forever broken; now money, not steam and iron and plank, is God. Asliore I Never have I experienced greater pliys- ical pleasure than in the first hour ashore from a long and tedious voyage. Every pore of my senses drinks satisfaction ; head and heart and heels unite in speak- ing their content ; it is like an escape from prison or a release from purgatory. So am I in California, the lovely, the golden-dreamed, the wonderful 1 Looking over the water toward the east, I see through the subtle violet haze, the land before me like a land of promise; mountain, vale, and bay glimmering in a flood of saffron sunlight, zoned and studded with bright emerald hills — gold and green, significant of the royal metal in its veins, and the elements of the rich har- vest hidden in its breast. Iiivei erit. So some even f state. Son Sj)ania temple f<»r a f( troasui down t cold di ever be roirion Ki J3orJ giJt sJio J",!,'' at a lantern t^io rain was not The t far as an into sobe Some say [ey. in G because i Caj CHAPTER IX. EL DORADO. Inveteracct lioc qucxjue ; et quod hodie exeinplis tueinur, inter cxcin^Ia erit. — Ttu-ilu.i. So they called the country El Dorado, The Glided; some of them so called it not knowing; why ; the name even fastening itself upon a political division of the state. Some of them knew that since the coming of the S}>aniards, when Vasco Nunez hunted for the golden temple of Dabaiba, and Juan Ponce de Leon searched for a fountain of perpetual youth, and Cortds freighted treasure ships from Mexico, and Pizarro from Peru, down to the silvery days of stock gambling, and the cold dull tyranny of railroad management, tlierc has ever been in the minds of the greedy, somewhere a region ruled by El Dorado, or rather a place called El Dorado, or The Gilded. It was not necessary the gilt should be gold, or even that there should b(^ gild- ing at all ; indeed, the thing was rather of the Jack-a lantern order, or like the crock of gold at the end of the rainbow, when ready to put your hand upon it, it was not there. The true, or original El Dorado — that is, true so far as any aborginal or other mythology can be woven into sober story — was in South America, wiiere, as some say, the micaceous quartz in the Essequibo val- ley, in Guiana, gilded the land. Or it may have been because the high priest of Bogotd sprinkled his person Cal. Int. Poc. 16 (226) t« ^■■\ 226 EL DORADO, with gold dust, thus originating the idea of a gilded humanity, that people came to think of the country as gilded. The high priest. El Dorado, the lord of this magnif- icence — for chief and country generally bore the same name — was every day annointed with perfumed gum and bathed in gold-dust, so that his whole body glit- tered like the sun. His moving was as the moving of a golden statue, and his breathing was as of subli- mated diamonds. Incredible it would ever seom, were not the truth verified by many witnesses, liow long, and earnestly, and honestly men pretending to sanity sought this myth. Beginning with Sebastian de Belalcdzar in 1535, and Gonzalo Pizarro in 1539, the valley of Dorado was the object of search by various expeditions fitted out from Peru, Quito, Bra- zil, New Grenada, and the Rio de la Plata, the in- fatuation continuing down to as late a period, in one instance at least, as 1775. Coming to more definite statements, we know that a Spaniard named Martinez reported that having been adrift at sea he was thrown on the coast of Guiana, and taken to Manoa, the capital of the king of that region, who was an ally of the incas of Peru, that tlie roof and walls of the city, wherein he had resided seven months, were covered with the precious metals. Orellana, a lieutenant of Pizai ro, who visited the val- ley of the Amazonas, 1540-1, spoke of a region whtro gold and silver abounded to a fabulous extent. He reported to have been in Manoa, and to have seen the immense treasures. Van Hutten, who commanded an expedition from Coro, on the coast of Venezuela, 1541-5, thought that he had caught a glimpse of the golden city, . in search of which he had started. Several expeditions undertaken to reach the mythical region failed, notably one in 1560 under Gonzalo Ximenez de Quesada from Bogotd. The fable lias occupied men's minds, among others leading to results that of Sir Walter Raleigh, who undertook to find THE GOLDEN KINGDOM. -d "??.%^a?;r<-'««<'- to Guiana i„ r,^ pseudodi^overieso fS J'« *° ^« ^'^" traces of the capital of the golden \Zr7 ^'«'gl>. showing the ■netols, the sidewalJts th,^ fl. T''':™ '» P'-«™'Us k;nd, and the wagon 3^ f,tf f ^ *'."' the*^yell,>w kind; for at hand were si?Lt?-n V*'' the white «''vor, and a hill „f s^^ ''\"«^ » '"" of gold, a hill „f l«laee of snow-white marble wti' ■1^'' "^ *''« "'i'^i and alabaster, all encSd bv !' S'"?" "^ P°Wrv wrought cedar and ebo^v f ''^/*"'^'''«s of curiously -vond the power of tot" 'o ";en'"''P"°'' ''«'* ^^ ^^^ I he Diecionnrj'n U: ? • ^ * Moreri-s FrenT;SS';itb'"'l'*.,>»''''t»n of ^f iravel, published in ?r53 T'"'.™''?"* additions bv El Borado, as situated ttwee^t^'^ *'?^ P'-°^i"^« of and Aniazonos, containing *i! *?^ "^e™ Orinoco Sreat city on ik wet e™^,^t'rf ^J a^ Parinu,, and a Kroat quantities; but add,T'." i' ,'"'"•'» "f gold in ;:;-antado,-'andthar.ni^t r t^° '" '"^''o est,t •■'r proved to be only " bu"l 1°' "'<' ?">o had thus -s. Hu„,boldt prLd that ,f » iT ''" '°* «^P«fio- Nirr-*''^f^ of Man™. ''^^ '"""^ "-^ "'"'ost as king, aj wer?:Std to 'T' ""* ^^^ the gilded Kilded country, we hfv^h,, ^ '^""'^n* with onW I ''""•anity than ever tL p^f ^'"Pf then more of giid And the^oat oFgi t hS TeTn'"" !? '^^ ™"W hoasl 'Incker on many of them until fl ^''*"-"^' *'*«"■ and ooatmg of metal of Zie k^n^ f* "^ *" '""^^ thick 'ver, gold, or brass s^^A • '.'^* '"' otherwise- '''"od and bone, Srt and h~'' '"n""'*' "" " ™«tinl' and nothing else Mom tha„ ' '"''^ ''"" "^"^^ to discover the veriteW» """^ '"^ have thought dwelt the money-gSSs^r °' ^'""'"-. -hfre -nia,1hf s::Sr b^bMt'^ -.- the tulip oubbie, the Mississippi bubble. 228 EL DORADO. what may we not look for in the book of human follies ? The miseries of a miner might fill a chapter of woes. Digging and delving with eager anxiety day after day, up to the waist in water, exposed now to the rays of the burning sun, and now to cold, pitiless rains, with liberal potations of whiskej^ during the day, and mad carousals at night, flush with great buckskin bags of gold-dust, or toiling throughout the long summer without a dollar, indebted to the butcher, baker, and gr(x;er, heart and brain throbbing and bounding with success, or prostrate under accumulated disappoint- ments, it was more than a man with even an iron frame could endure. When disease made him its prey, there was no gentle hand to minister to his wants, no soft voice to whisper words of love and com- fort, no woman's heart on which to rest his aching head. Lying on the hard earth, or rolling in feverish agony on the shelf-bed of his cabin, often alone and unattended throughout the livelong day, while the night was made hideous by the shouts and curses of rioters, the dying miner, with thoughts of home, of parents, wife, and sister, and curses on his folly, passed away. That was the last of him in this world, name- less, graveless, never heard froml Meanwhile, and for years after, those he left at the old home despair- ingly dwell upon his fate. Such cases were sad enough, but there were others still more melancholy. The patient, devoted wife, waiting and watching for the husband's return, toiling early and late for tlio support of their children, ever faithful, ever having him in her thoughts, and so passing her life away, until hope became charred and black, while the object of all this love, of this devotion, was, maybe, spending his substance with harlots, writhing under the delirium of drunkenness, without at any time bestowing even a thought upon that devoted wife and those abandoned children. ] dl(j( he J eess to S( tJius Son] hark and and hrok( turhe gulch ness t Soi: dried tile wi in wJii, ininin«> and bu like Su town e^ Je.ssly a to swea sports iiVen vi to I Jay ] tJi^' cardi and a du ^^redioal iasts, niei st'tting tl] wJion the and good It Was or failure a« oJsewhc '!' ''I groatc Sitting on ■ 229 MISERIES OP THE MINKR to sending it in a lettw wl^l k"^ ','' "»'" g""<l <io"vs tl.us many a poor hoart ath " '*!'' °'' ^id not ; aL S™>e, and as a rule th^ n f '^'""' "" »" the end •■"'d «Pmt; «o«.e fcVrct'l'' ''?'"f. broken i, uX ;""l joyous; but by fo r/'' '» ''««ltl., ^ucceSf •'.-d'Tp in tt ::;rnt\*e^r?.V ■'f'- havmg boo„ t w„,ter, tJ,us loavin^^buUiH "j-''^ fr<«en%p ;" ouniiay tiian anv Suii.l,,, * -^^eiy day is nioro t"wn ever sees. All is id ^ *''" Pf'^Porous n,in,W l-«»h about the st^ets so ,? r"' • S^unt fi,r„,s fl list" '" «vear at the ti^^s'a "?'"'?'! K^'berin. i„™- H-rts when grunSn' Itsdfl'"^' °"' '"VS i-vcn vice stagnates. Sf ', v ''"*°'"e8 unbearalje ;> play for moLy or wWskev "', ""* *'"' wbereti I.' 'I'e cards for fun.'' Mol evHk ' ""'' * "''"ffl" an<l S '"'?<«„ is looked u^o^tTT''""'""' "■■^"la<^- J heal inen drive a fai'r traffie a,'"] ''""""^ "™""' j'tscs, nienain(r in +r, "^^ttinc as louir as fJ.r. ]• -"in^'the'^o^t S'irr'>:.'''^''-i^«S n "b^n the fuel f„r tW ii^fc' "'^^*i'" '."»''* Previous but tebf nTS -|«r^''-*' "- ^- - 'ailure in^TeTnTn:: "VIT ^^at led to sueeess - eWi^ere, were "te tl^ ^ ^''t''"'',-?-"^' b '- 230 EL DORADO. fomia, like frogs about a frog-pond, — sat thus and croaked, cursing California, and looking at tlio gravel bods, and crying, "There is no gold in them." That did not bring fortune. Steady persistent work, with reasonal)lc economy, though it seldom rewarded one with a strike or a largo return, was sure to result in something. Laziness and captious disquiet were tho two evils. There were comparatively few miners at tho end of thoir first two years in California who had 31,000 laid by, and yet a claim would have to pay but five dollars a day to give the miner of it $2,000 at the end of two years, allowing $1,000 during the meantime for food and clothes. But during the earlier years, wages were ten dollars a day or more, and tlie miner who ctmld not get that, or twice as nmch, would stoj) woik, and cither do nothing or prospect for something nearer tho largo ideas brouijcht hither. Often in making excavations for buildings the spado uncovered the bones of some unknown wanderer, thrust hurriedly beneath the cover of earth 1 stranger next to him, thrust beneath a lijjht co of earth and straightway forgotten. Very early there appeared a mania for rushes, as they were called, that is, a hurrying hither and thither after the echohig cry of go\d. Whole camps were; thus stampeded ; at times the wildest stories of now finds beinii enouiih to cause men to leave «jood diiTijiniJS in the hope of findhig better. Almost all of these excitements ended in disaster, like that of the Gold Lake affair, about which one thus writes : " One day, while in Sacramento city, I heard an old citizen relating his experience in tho gold mines of this country. Among other incidents, was that most memorable of California humbugs, th? Gold Lake v\- citement. I shall not attempt to follow the old miner through all his mountain wanderings, nor is it noc( s- sary to mention his hopes and fears, his sufferings antl toils, and ultimate disappointments — but he made one hair-breadth escape which I shall mention. For many 10 ■T T»E OHIO DIOOIXGS. f '.oavil^ ,a^,, ^^, 1-^; »cl about fift^'r;,, ,7 s"ow „,. t|,u mountains wT "^ ""<' altlmu.r], the orod with a fi„„ era" l' T^ ''''^•P' ^'e' it wtl eov '.efoetoftheanimafl' "0^0^:^'^ ''"''" ''-'-'h <JkI break-and sueh a breath "»/. I'owever, ti.ocrast "' "W"' oy a roarin.r inoimfr,-. '■ " '""' swi..pt out 7">pl«toly arcl,ed oCr « ''""""' *'"'''' l«d been <'l«orvabJe until the crust wi, ""7' "'"^ "'tiroly m " ;>" ","-' very brink of tht fri Uf"',''"- O^J-'^^ro Z ':"''>ly time to back out ami '^"»''K"' "''»«", and S :"f 'r r^' "' "> «» CZ^°"; Tl» most Antoine'S/atlTrdl,?!?' the miners of "lanoli of tl,o America,. ..: ' *"** ""'•th-midill„ nten.e„t regarding h^o™:;/^-'^ "' " flutter:'f e ! :;i-"™^ ~Surir„v;" ^" "•' -^ ^'^^^ a'lotlier was ready to n,i„ * '*■'" ^ ""'> failed wore of worth onfv as Th "^"-V ''■'"■''"'«« w ,>h /Ims time and opportmn-f l' ""?'" ''ring in,,.ra»„ 'mndreds when, httS >''M *■'■'"» «'« «' « -^'"■^e of this exeftemerwa. , " *''" • ''""'"-""The ™»onoffivemen who "ai ?h ' ""'"7' "* ^ntoi e »^^>o broug),t into clmp a he?' T"/'"'" ^i""- ad W'™ questioned as t, il, i •>' '"*^' "f gold dust ;'".'«' it, tl,ey b^ame n me^""'""- ^5- bad ot' 'I'oir noses, and smile, L , "?^,l'"' tlieir fin.rws to '"«» went their way Th/ "'''"^■- P'-''»«"tly tl e ''f"to, and there se^n toS^T *''^''«'' *" 4™ *-»eisco; hence it wastlt I,?'?'"',''""" '""'•San ■' the,r mine. Eyidently ^ey t/ 'S*^ ""' ™""-«'^'d -". and ret„„,i„g to -"-^10^^.:^^^^- 232 EL DORADO. others forestall them. Where were the diggings of these Ohioans ? Early in the spring of this year, three Mexicans had struck it rich on Vanfleet creek, a little stream near to, and running parallel with Antoine creek. Between these two streams James Williams kept a store, where the lucky miners made deposits for safe- keeping. Williams, wishing to retire, notified all per- sons to remove their deposits. With the rest, the Mexicans came and took away their gold, which by this time amounted to seventy-five pounds in weight. Greedy eyes watched them as they went, and murder- ous feet followed them. In the last party that set out from Antoine creek in search of the Ohio diggings was James W. Mar- shall. They had spent over a fortnight climbing rug- ged mountains, and stumbling through dark ravines ; their food was almost gone, and they had turned their faces homeward, when, by an abrupt bend in the aboriginal trail which they had found, they entered a cool, grass} glen. So shaded was it, and so suddenly went they into it from the sunhght, that at first they did not see the horrors it contained — here a ghastly skeleton with a round hole in the skull; there another with a bullet through the heart ; yonder a third whose feet had caught in the vines as the swift messenirer of death had overtaken him from behind. The car- cases of four horses, their packs and saddles unrc- moved, were found near by. One after another of these dismal objects Marshall's observant eye took in; then after a moment's pause, while a dark cloud gathered about his brow, he said, •' Boys, we have found the Ohio diggings 1" Upon the discovery of gold within the domain re- cently acquired, the question arose. Shall foreigners be allowed ecjual privileges with American citizens in abstracting the |)reclous metal ? It should be borne in mind that both the Spanish FOREIGXERS IN THE MINES. «s ma/OS WHcricani Th« H^' "'"' .Particularly of tvi^r, when he found himaelPft-T""-,-^""'"''"'. !''>«'- ),-ver„„,ent of the U™teJs»t "'"''■' *'''•' '""^ ""d ^"^tan hi„,^,f and™i.4>t ' IT '°"'^'*™« *" American, ivith his 8l reww'r • ' ."''"'*' *''« Anglo. «'nsrt> ve of sharing Kr,"f '"'"''• """ be^»'''e particularly with SpaZZ^^TT""^- "''"' ""'«>^. claimed that Californivf f ^',"fc"^""'ri«a»s. Thev PWns.audtheme^iXrnfr''? -^""jy^ "'"' f«rtZ and theirs alone And vif r'"'""^^'"™^ he tjieirs of the earth rusl in^lnli f ' ^^ ^'V'" ''" ">« ■«'S pocketing the a-old ■ = -"'.^"""i? "'e lands and ^^trictedi; as^ufos'XTall fo' T'^IV"'^ ''"»»- "T ^^«««fod for the purchase ^fV" ^^"^T" " "« In regard to nerniitt;!, f ^ ' " """' w deniess «.« foofhiiis, «;rA*r£an ':;?' "^^ '" ''''^'™-t fr ; say that his governnZT.? ""7, ""«''' truthfuUv t.i.o power to\eept ICrsTfit'""''',*,'" "«'" «"d velyhe might bring Itself /.V 7.'.?''^ ""'"'=- the absence of govern me f '" "'<' "'^'''^ that in K.. a unit of t^TgZrZ,^: governmental protectio ^ to determine a Policra "nV ''■T'' ^'^ ^'""« right ■at he had to^m^ir ri.t Tn J"' TI" '''■"'•''««-- But in e„tertaini|,„ the S tin? tT ''*'' ""'ditions. rKl;t to act for th? govenol . •' "',7 P/«sessed the '""■'"g foreigners accesst """"''"" '"' di«al- »™lth the American mne; fll iT'^'i''' """oral antecedents, facts, and precedent t ■'""'•'"'*'• """ l.at reciprocity treaties wW.s. T" !?'"'"'»' "'o'"! f"r.-e.- that when no such tl ^ "''"""'"« »'ere ii ""■"■"'dWtion; in feet thaf th '"' f"^'} ""•'■^' ™ ."overnment had ever been lo m '' '"T " *''" """''•''■al ;?"r,-,ge immigration a,^ !°ffT" *'^' '*' ''"">■«. on- ' "dcr this krTown ^Sl "fl""' '«''*« to all '" tacit consenl fo ci. S'T'*' P'tr^re^uival t X;l« "ow too late to7u"",tbn ^',"? '"*''"'-' ""^ " ""«■ "-" by fo.e of ri '?^, ': ;P---. or to EL DORADO. Native American citizens objected to foreigners fill- ing their purses from the wealth of the foothills, and returning to their own countries. They particularly objected to Chinese and Spanish- Americans. White skins were for a time welcome among the American miners ; but Indians, Africans, Asiatics, Islanders, and mixed breeds generally, were detested. The state of California having no title to either the agricultural or mineral lands lying within her limits, her legislature possessed no right to impose a special tax on foreign miners as it attempted to do. Nor was it for the state, but for the United States, to say what should be done with the gold embanked in the foothills, or who should or should not abstract it, or pay for the privilege of abstracting it. The tax thus attempted to be levied was twenty dollars per month. The people soon saw the folly of such a measure. The miners scarcely averaged twenty dol- lars a month after all their expenses were paid. But those hostile to the Spanish-Americans, and other for- eign elements among the mining population gained their point. The Evening Picayune of San Francisco said on the 14th of August 1850, "We infer, with tolerable certainty, that from fifteen to twenty thou- sand Mexicans, and perhaps an equal number of Chilcnos, are now leaving, or preparing to leave Cali- fornia for their own country." It is true that certain outrasjfcs committed in the south had soniethintj to do with this exodus, but undoubtedly the main cause was the passage, by the legislature at San Jose, of the law to tax foreign miners. It would be useless to deny that the first day the tax-gatherers appeared at Sonora, where hitherto peace and amity had presided, the community was split in two, and arrayed one part ayfainst the other with bowie-knife and revolver. It was a great error to suppose that the value of gold to California lay in enriching a few trappers, farmers, and emigrants. Such narrow-mindedness could not compass the idea of enticing energy anil FOKEION MINERS. capital from all nart, „f *i . ^ -ttle»e„t and m'^Xe lopUf j' ^ -"»- quick the work that u, <|er dSff"- *'°'"«^ '" ""« Vr on Chinese laborers in the Ini °rT' '^"fy ™POBod a'scniumatin.r a.rain<,f ti ^ ^e only reason for :r 't? ^4'- crttt: sttt"« «'«' "'''^ f "■. The miserable spirit of ,i;i " • "" "^ ^"^ *» foreigners had shown ftsolf t tT''""""'""^ "gainst 5th of Augnst 1850, the San p'' ''■''^''- 0" «'e aldermen by resolutio^ nrohH^? j^ffnf'sco board of engage in drayi„„ dr vh^^, i*^ *''"* "'''«« should boatB for the%,SVeyi:,"=„?t "'^ ™''"'"'^' ^'"vil spirituous liquors. ^ * "'^ Ptesengers, or sellinS -oy nndsuminer of IS-,n „ ■ " southern mines with alannin'"''''^ Prevailed in the mon guleh resolutions tTrirX'T:';?'';"'^- A* «» - s 'ould quit tho,,e diggi '^^E t^' *" *^''-''i<-a"3 forcibly expelled. flowSverth « ''^'^''"days. or be foreigners, not of AmIriVan, A ? o ">" »<•«"" of ordered that all forSZZT ^' ^oiiora it was f aged in ponnan'S ■J./^fPy-h "^ -re T cave the country within ^ft P^**^,'''o pursuits, sl„,ul,! ^^■tween the IinJs,Tmef f if ^"• «r'"« " « SanFranciseoJo^n^;"/";;*'' "^ 'r>' '•"'iov; the "■at the Americans had tT"""' "! "^"'y 2<), Lsai' f-us and Cliilians „S ou^^'ir"*' "'•■" "" Mo.. I ourna justified the H C? bee, ,'" ''""I'"--'-- That atrocities daily pernefZSi 5""?uso, as it alleged of Auieriean origil^-^^TK ^^ t't'""?- "^ »'^""*. ;>gh enough in the seaJo of h„™ T ''"' '"" rank the deliberations of any au °if ' ''"i'^ '" coniinand ho dared strike a blow wb»7 '^f "'i"" '"octing. If '■™n in defence of hTs w fe^ T ",'.;*J<*' ""ght be ;';ayaised, and moun ed ,tn ,vitl "'^"' """'"''y t" the rancheria, and shoof -1 "^"^ """W ride ^■'"Idreii, innocen a" d .MamV „? '•""• *""""'• «"d u ouuty, promiscuously. Who 'Jf. 236 EL DORADO. would waste time in trying savages for their lives ? A whole rancheria of 150 souls, for the killing of one Anderson, under the severest provocation, and the stealing of some cattle, were shot down and butcherd with knives in the most cowardly manner by self- styled citizens of Trinity county, in April 1852. Hundreds of puch disgraceful instances might be re- corded had I the time, space, or inclination to parade them. Durlnor 1852 the crusade agfainst foreii^n miners reached its climax, with the result that in the spring of the year Mexican guerrilla bands extended from Mariposa to Mokelumne hill. The Americans of Saw-mill Flat, in Tuolumne, would have been massa- cred on the 7th of July, but for an Italian who warned them. They thereupon took up arms and drove all foreigners from the locality. Many meas- ures adopted to drive foreigners from the mining claims with varied success might be mentioned, but for lack of space I must leave them out of these pages. It is worthy of notice, however, that amidst tlie strong feclinij aroused on manv occasions, and the nmltitudin- ous threats, little blood was shed. The Americans were none of the time sure that they were right, and their action was much less determinate and uniform than in the administration of popular justice. As time went by, from urging persecutions against all foreiijners alike, it became directed aijainst Asiatics onlv. In this cowardlv work, white foroiijners thoni- selves, but recently obnoxious to American citizens, were the chief instigators. By tliis time the better class of Americans had given uj) the occupation of minhiij : and the dreijjs of the nationalities had taken their places to glean what they could from the leav- ings. The latter continued the persecutions against the Chinese. The president said in liis message to congress, De- cember 2, 1850, that he was at first disposed to favor the plan of leasing the mines, or of granting licenses THE CARSO.V mu AFFAIR. ^ lands againat monopoTu:^ tnd^f *" P™'^''' "ineral "lent the lamest reve,^ I . ™''^ *° "le govern ■•eeon,mended S' 'V^' °'! r<-™d thought ™e -mil lots and Smgl Tln^lT"^ *"'™4 '"'o iwlitic and impracticable p, ^ *" *"* <"!•"'% im- « lo in the Siirta Co^i,, !* "Vl ' P'"™f ^■^*"'- "^Vi^K secif,tcontai„edgoldf^,o ',,»•" '""'"""'"S it tS on iintil he owned a barren , no, T'"^ *"'>''•«'•• «»<! so guard these n.ineral gZr^Z)"' f"^'' ''''«'' to the miners, and prevent ^.Tl- '""'''• *° drive oft' ""'itarv force lanje^than ^ "'"*''•. ''°"'<' require a "'oral /orce ten tW„,^f ^T"'^ '" Mexico,\„d a »;ont was able at S^To com ^''^t^''"' govern The mmers were essentTlN. •"""*"«' "' California ™>gi»g over a vast Se^s't?*")^ JP 1^"' ''«'''*'• a httle here and a little theS / ^''^''-fio'd^- digging before finding a spot woHh^^;kZ"'^V"T' i^««? air'^"-™-^t-SUi;::!;c:ii'r iodt'btttT?;;::e*„^[,:.i'»'ir|eompa„iesofte„ .'o">eti„,es open wa^ TouM V^T 'f '' '" '"^^ "^ 'i^ ties ranging then.selves o„ either "> '^""'""ding par- teeth with knives, revoho^ „ j "'''' ""'""' to the ^"l'P'e..ient suits it W "d TatSV ,f' S''i'-o"ld It IS not at all cert-iin fi 'f ^*"'ts follow fights, fite of things, any lo^L-i"i '" *'"> «ien oxistin. tn mnieml la°nds wou& ha *' 1 ^' T'''"^ '" '"especl he niining districts oCaWo„:r1r'""'''', "^'^l.t in i"" "?"<•■' accustomed to tl e r mv. ""^ '""' ''«-omo file . better able to take care of H "■';' *"'' "'"^' i" eastern politicians. NevertbelT'™" *'">" ^«re ermusaft-rays which would no*',r """■* '^*''« ■""">• ^■'«yegarding minemlTa^'rj'^'^ "'''•"'■ed '""'the- f^ii^l ;-mstance the followit " """' "'''^^ de- ll'" f'"o.JI5^r:^ rtifho^'iS-^ "" Carson l->-ss,o„ and began to" ^^o^l'X^tCl^.r'^r' 238 EL DORADO. Mi': )!: claimed 1,000 foet along the ledge, being 125 feet to each man. For nine months they remained in peacea- ble possession, working their mine continuously. The richness of the vein drew to the hill many miners, who at length began to question the right of Morgan and his men to hold so nmch ground ; and the ques- tion of title once raised, soon the whole claim was covered with squatters. Morgan appealed to the courts and was declared the rightful possessor; but when the sheriff attempted to place him in possession the squatters declared they would die before yieldihg their claims. Further than this, being greatly supe- rior in numbers, they held a meeting and passed reso- lutions that Morgan and his company should leave the camp within an hour, or be driven thence. The property in their cabin, said their resolutions, was to be "held sacred." The resolutions of 200 armed men against eight usually prevailed in the mines, so next day all that was left of the Morgan company on Carson hill was the cabin with its sacred utensils — hallowed pots and kettles and holy woolen shirts. Thus ejected from a ledge of his own discovering, of which the courts had declared him the rightful owner, Morgan heralded his wrongs in every direction, and called upon the neighboring camps to sustain him in his rights. The opposite party likewise sent fortli messengers asking a suspension of public opinion, threatening at the same time to raise five hundred men for a flight. Meanwhile Morjjan went to Sonora, where he found fifty men to jom his standard. With these he sot out on his return to Carson hill ; but on the way nearly half his force deserted, thinking it hardly the maik of wisdom to risk their necks in other men's quarrels. Arriving after night, Morgan en- cami»ed with about thirty men in a canon under the hill, intending next day to open a fight for the prem- ises. A gun accidentally discharged made known their presence to the opposite party, who, supposing their number ten times greater than it was, abandontd MrNlNG LAWd .XT^ tne place. JSTevf ^ . 239 ^'"w small a force thev h«W i ^® squatters saw h,- and fifty anW ;i .*^'^ """^'^^^ of abc3 ' *^-^' '"^- oaJni consultation, thcbS ?''' """mediately Aftor Hance amlT ''^'^''''" "f the storv It. Flni„,,„„ , • on Carson hill T^Jr '^''""'' '' s- 'nent tw W '"I '"<'*"'■''. 'le loaCl t i -^'""^ "'^''"t '"- cnat ifanco had sohl *i ,".<"' «' 'ns ast()ni<ili gattCfaiiiitr^^^^^^^^^^ -L'ecembor of 10-1 •>^'^^"^" over a mil I Ion ^^ '{'"ca co.nm„ti:,"Teai',r^.t'>e Hill t^ 'ele .,f ""'"•^; "in, and the courts plaee.) \r "^ ■" '""rts to savo vLat ,s law without poll' f ^'*" '" f^'^^^ion Bu? •^wcrtcl, for the countrr f.l •, ^^^' ^^'as anrelv y;'-veu tnat Moriran shoT/M '"'"«'"? » ^^aud. Thov *''ove him awav Tf , "^ ^^^^'«^ the Hill anrl t *^ li i [.ill 240 EL DORADO. themselves to stand by him and support the courts. During these excitements hundreds of armed men appeared ranged on either side, but none were killed or wounded. Here ended the matter. The miners loved to regulate their own affairs, par- ticularly mining matters, and hanging. At a meeting held Sunday evening, the 20th of April, 1851, at Horseshoe bar, the following pertinent if not logical resolutions were adopted : Tliat wo are in favor of law and order, and are willing to obey all man- dates of our courts, and all authority coming in a proper and legitimate way; but that we do not recognise tlie right of jurisdiction of our courts in cases of trespass on miuerU claims, and that wu believe all ditiicultics of the miners in respect to their claims can be settled far more speedily, with greater jus- tice, and with far less cost and trouble, by the miners tliemselves than by any court now existing in the state. Resolved, that we are not in favor of throwing our cases into courts whicli have not been found able to exercise their authority in such a way as to give to the people a feeling of satisfaction; and that while we charge none with corruption or dishonesty, we believe it to be the rottenness of our coui-ts that has brought tliem into disrepute. We think too many of our public officers are more familiar with monte than they are with mining, and believe they have a better knowledge of twenty-one tlian they have of trespass on min- eral claims. Resolved, tliat we will not carry the differences which arise among us in regard to leads and claims before any court until a proper one be established by tlie general government; that we will discountenance all such appeals, and that as for ourselves, we will resist as best we can all attempts of our courts to exercise jurisdiction of this kind. In criminal affairs, tlie miners were governed simply by their ideas of right, formulated to some extent by tradition, but always in the ends of justice. In civil cases, all depended upon agreement, and if there was no agreement, then upon custom and equity. The miners of every locality met and made their own laws regulating right of occupation; for the rest, there was little to question or dispute about. These laws were much alike in the different districts, and yet they varied a little. There were hundreds of them, enough to fill a volume. I give a few as samples. Following are the regulations adopted by the min- ers of the Kock Creek Ditch and Mining District at a meetmg held the 1st of December, 1853. I. This district shall be bounded by the Fordyce and Booth Rock Creek Districts on two sides, the Spout Spring ravine on the lower aides, and tliu south branch o' liock Creek on the other. ^^VS AND REGULATIOXS. m n. All claims shall i ^ tain to such (leiitl, „! ""'^ 'lumlred feet fr«„* ^, "i- '^'i-t.?/j;,rt.rt"^^^^^ -*« the moun. the pro:ipoctiui{ of on,. ,.| . ; " "'"Uglily prosDenf »i & -' '- -; ---''S,-S^:;;- J. ........... „„„ At a n,eeting of the „ • ' '" °' '"""■"""' Low at the W%Z\"Z:V^'""^^ «"""- was mnimg tlistriet; •^ -"*"' *" "rgaiiizo a new Oi .notion of S. Jj. Herr "k thoT'lP' ^'"^ ^-^"t ''yB^-c^' '?'k' '"^ "'« -^ec. I. The s ze of nl-,;!. ' '^ f"llf)\vmff laws u-o";^ . '^'"icho. 'ii'ui fuet lon<r n,. 1 ^"''""s on gulcl, or ..? V'^SMere adopted' '"'=i I istrict slwli ^ 1 1 '*" Violate or refi.-^ + i EL DORADO. 9. All water running in its natural channel belongs to the miners on said channel, each miner having a right to uae the same on his own ground. 10. All claims held by companies or individuals in this district shall bu recorded by the 1st of January. 11. These laws are not intended to apply to private rights, heretofore obtained in accordance with the common customs and usages of miners. At a meeting of the miners of Bear river, for tlio purpose of making laws and regulations for said min- ing locality, it was resolved : 1. That the newly discovered mining district shall be known as Mammoth Springs diggings. 2. That all claims in the bed of the river shall be ninety feet in leugtli, running up or down said stream. 3. That the bed of the stream be considered that part of said stream lying between its bars and banks. 4. That all claims in Imrs or banks of said stream shall be sixty feet running up and down the same. 5. Tiiat notices of claims shall hold good for ten days from date of notice, when, if not workeil, said claims are forfeite<l. 6. That all bank claims that are not workable shall hold good until they are workable. A meeting of the miners of Mammoth Springs diggings was held, pursuant to previous notice, at the store of S. M. Young, on Bear river, when a recorder of claims in the district and judges were elected, and the following resolutions offered: 1. That the price of recording claims shall be one dollar for each claim. 2. That when miners are working on their claims said claims shall lie considered good whether recorded or not. 3. That river claims shall hold good until considered workable by a majority of miners of this district. 4. Tljat the boundaries of Mammoth Springs diggings be considered from \Vm Bradley & Co. 's claim up the river to Bear valley. 5. That no person be allowed more than one workable claim at a time liy location. 6. That a person may hold as many claims by purchase as he tliiiiks proper. 7. That claims in this district if not represented or recorded within ton days from this date shall be considered jumpable. 8. As amendment to resolution, knew, too, that the time for working the bed of the stream shall be the first of June. 9. Tliat a copy of these laws be left in possession of the recider, and the chairman of tliis meeting. 10. That the laws of this district heretofore enacted and also the procoed- ings of this meeting be published in the Nevada Journal and Youmj A me rift. At a meeting of the miners in Nevada county, January 15, 1854, the following laws were read and adopted : Sec. 1. The name of this mining ground shall be called Myres lUniiie Mining district. 2d. Said district is bounded as follows: On the east by the Native Aiiitri- can ravine, south by West Hill district, west by a straight north and smith line running past the head waters of Myres ravine to the Yuba, thuuce LAWS AND REGULATIONS. at III from line liy Itliiiiks lin ton ^ug the if, iui'l hoceed- mty, and llUvvine lAiiieri- south I tUcuce down tho Yii1)a to the month nf Native American ravine to the Htartliig place. lid. Each chiim shall be one hundred feet square. 4th. Each claim or cninpany'a claim shall be worked every ten days Sundays excepted, with one full day's labor and renewal of notice. Wlicn a coinpany lias claims adjoining, M'orking on one shall be considered as work- ing on tlie whole. All claims not workable to ailvantage for want of water, or any other cause, shall hold goiMl three months by being recorded, and a rcconl of the causes, stating the reason or reasons why they are nut work- able. Tith. Tliat no person shall hold more than one claim by location; he may, however, hold as many by purchase as are worked, according to the laws, provided, he lias a ImnaJiileuiW of sale signed by two witnesses. tith. There shall be a recorder elected for the term of one year, whose duty it shall be to record tliese laws and all others that may be passed here- after in a book prepared for that pur])ose, to record all claims, transfers, and bills of sale, for which he shall receive tiTty cents for each claim, trans- fer or bill of sale recorded. 7th. Each company siiall have its ground defined by substantial stakes, with notice of the numlMsr of claims held and name of the secretary of said c(imi>any on the notice. 8th. That all disputes that may arise in regard to claims shall be decided by arbitration of the miners of this district, and each party shall choose a <hsinterested man, and the two a third one to arbitrate the matter. 9th. That the arbitrators' and witnesses' fees shall be the same as allowed by the county court to jurors, and paid by the i>arty in default 10th. That these laws may be altered or amended by giving ten days notice, and signed by twelve interested miners of this district, stating tlie ol)ject in writmg, and sticking up said notice in live of the most conspicuous places in this district, by a vote of the majority of the miners interested in this district being present at such a meeting. 11th. That E. D. Dean be and is hereby elected recorder. 12th. That these laws shall be in full effect after this date, January 18, 1854. At a meeting of the miners of Pleasant Flat held August 1, 1854, E. Mills was called t(» the chair, and E. P. Palmer appohited secretary. The following by- laws were adopted : That said flat shall be called Pleasant Flat Mining district Article Ist Pleasant Flat district is bounded on the lower end by the caflon, or the claims known ivs Jewett & Co. 's claims, and extends up the Flat to the upper end of H. H. Roberts & Co. 's claims, and on each side from hill to hill. Article 2d. Eaeh claim in the creek sliall consist of sixty feet in length, extending from bank to bank, and not interfering with claims formerly lo- cated. Article 3d. Each claim in the flat shall consist of eighty feet stiuare. Article 4th. Each miner on said flat shall be entiUed to one claim by location and Ave by purchase. Article 6th. When there i^ not sufficient water to supply each company of men in the Flat, they shall be liinite<l to forty-five inciies each, witli six- inch pressure, commencing at the lower co., and extending up the flat as the water fails, until they are all limited, allowing the upper cos. the flrst right. Article 6th. Each man or co. is required to have his claims recorded on t}ie secretary's bo ik, and to perform one full day's work on his or co.'s claims every tenth day, vhen he or co. can obtain the amount of water specified in tlie 5th article. Otiisrwise his claims are forfeitable, if recorded from the first of November, 1S54, until the first of May, 1855. 1,1 ii 244 EL DORADO. Articlo 7tli. No man, or company of men, shall he allnwed to put a (latn or any uljMtruutiun in tliu creek or hkIo race ho a-s to <laniage tlie elainn almve or IhjIow. Eacli company ia required to keep the side race in order <ii)piMitu their own claims. Artiilo 8tli. It shall ho the duty of tlio secretary or reconlcr to rucurd all claims in tliu dLstrict if ruiiuc.sted hy the claim-holder, aiul to Hixfcity tliu lioundarie.i of each claim or company '^ claim. For which the seeivtary .shull receive tho sum of tweiity-livo cents for recording each claim. Articlo Uth. Kach company siiall have the right to cut a drain race tiirougli tho claiuH hel.iw, ami if the party cannot agree upon the amount of damage, if any, tliey siiall leave it to disinterested jtersoiis. And tii.it all dilKcultics arising in this district in regard to mining claims siiall ho settled hy disinterested miners of tho district. Article 10th. Tliat each company shall empty their tailings on their om'u ground. Articlo 11th. That these laws he suhject to amendment hy a vote of two thirds of the miner i of tho district. Article I'Jth. 'ihat a copy of these laws shall he puhluhud in the Nevada Jourmtl, and three copies shall he posted in the district. At a meeting of the miners of Busli Creek, lield September 4, 1854, on motion, M. S. Cleveland was called to the chair, and N. A. Hicks was appointed secretary. On motion, a committee of three was appointed to draft resolutions for the action of thi.4 meeting, A. B. Swan, H. A. Lonaa, and M. Sullivan, member.-. The following resolutions were presented, and unan- imously adopted: 1st. Tliat this district shall he known as Lower Busli Creek district. 2d. That the houndary shall he as follows: conunencing at tlie Ujjper Falls, or at the lower lino of Allen's claims, and running down to the i.vW'. hlasted hy Brush (."reek Co. in IS.")!!, including five claims in the Kock Creek adjoining, and ten claims in Miles' Ravine. 3d. 'ihat the claims shall he sixty feet in length, and extending fmiii hank to hank. 4lli. That any person may hold one claim hy location, and as many 1 • y purchase iia ho may see proper. 5th. That any person owning claims in this district can leave and vacate the same until there is sufficient water for grountUsluioing hy having tlieiii recorded in the recorder's hook, giving numher and location of the same witlun ten days after tliis date. Gth. That these resolutions he published ir. *,lie Nevada Journal, According to previous notice, a meeting of the mhiers ot Little Deer creek was held on Slaturday. Septem- ber 9, 1854, and adopted unanimously the following additional laws : 1st. There shall be no dams or obstruction kept In the channel of Little Deer creek during tho freshets, either at or above or l)elow low water niiirk, except the dam at tho falls, which may be kept in during the freshets. 2d. That the company or companies using the water of the creek sliall not tlrop t'.ie r.ame in cuts or flumes so as to prevent the company or companies below taem from ujiug tlie i;ame wa;,er. I'ly tins places noriVu^,'',''''''"'^ ''"''■; a Uruor^^ ■ i . ''■■"■« a chance toVZ ^'^^^''^''-t acce.Io to ro iL I ''f °''^"'' -^"'XW. "'.1 An Hone,t Mi.vkr. ■L'et US now son Imw +i ■■;S-*-l as tl.4''°H t "r7/'«f™<lo<l wl,at thoy tlicTO wero t«-.> lanr,. „ ""-' '*«"imtr of 1851 One, CO,.,,,,,,,, 7% :;,X"'- at wo.-k at Col ', ^^ •■■";'l'a..y, was .sued bni " H ^"7 ";' ""■■ Tu.md Y tlu'ir injury. Thc^TuM,, ' '.l^ '"' ''"'i' "P «-ator '0 court to ,,av s-oo ami ""yr was onlcnd l,v ; '"7-1 tlK.,I. ton ZTVX:: n' '•■"';■ ''''- ™"'"t ' ;'VJ-'crco, at tl.oo.vniration „n/'?-r.''<''^^«''' *" "boy '" ^"h-. 1851, Ro.r,.;s t, ™'r !^.^* ","0. on tl,e 28tii "und tl.o place gtarded l?:"'!"'^ '" '«"• " ''"»■"■ Ho t': resist The IWM, ^'« "7'«d >"e" l>roparod '^^"^•'■^'''''-'^wtijni'r^^..^:-:! m EL DORADO. tearing down the ob- yielding to necessity was structioii. Sheldon's rancho on the Cosunincs was the scene of civil discord during the first days of July I8al. A dam had been built by Sheldon for the purpose of ir- rigating his land. But while a benefit to him, it was working tl on tne river a great injury to the miners above, as the water flowed back on their claims ; where- fore they rebelled and threatened to destroy his works. Sheldon, bringing 150 ranchmen to his support, with a six-pounder placed in position, prepared to resist the miners. The latter, however, in Sheldon's absence, spiked the cannon and took prisoner the man who had charge of it. Sheldon, upon his return, finding the miners advancing with axes to cut away the centre of the breastwork, undertook to defend the dam, and with twelve allies walked ft)rward and took })ositions in different places. Sheldon then remonstrated witli the miners, told them that they were trespassing on his property, and threatened death to the first man who should attempt to cut away the dam. Immedi- ately a shot was fired from the besieging party, strik- ing Johnson, one of Sheldon's adlierents, and almost instantly killing him. Some one in the crowd ex- claimed, "there, we've killed Johnson, now give it to Sheldon, give it to Sheldon I" Half a dozen guns were aimed at him, and he, too, fell dead. Anotlier of his party was killed and two wounded. Several Were taken prisoners, but speedily released. The num- ber of miners is variouslv estimated at from foi-tv to one hundred. They escaped with little or no injury. A difficulty arose at Park bar, about the middle if July 1851, over some mining claims. The authorities interfered, but were successfully resisted by seven nun, who maintained their claim in a most defiant manntr. The authorities then sent to Marysville for assistanci, and two oflficers, McCloud and Bo wen, came over to make an arrest, but were met by sixty belligerents, who, armed with pick-handles and stones, drove the LAWS AND REGULATIONS. m officers away. The deputy sheriff of Yuba county, with a posse of 150 men, then appeared at Park bar and arrested two or three of the leaders, who were taken to Marysville jail and dealt with according to law. The rebellion was subdued and no further diffi- culty ensued. • (i- CHAPTER X. CLASSICAL ABNORMITIES. £a inusz auch solclie Kauze geben. —GoeHte. Ne nous emportons point contre Ics hojnmcs en voyant lenr ingratitude, lour injustice, leur fierte, I'amour d'oux-meines, et I'ouhli desautros ; ilssont aiusi faits, c'est leur nature : a'en f^cher, c'est ue pouvoir supporter que la pierre tonibe, ou que le feu s' el6ve. — La Bruylre Phantasia, non homo. ^ Pelroniiis Arbiter. Mur. — We are men, my liege. Muc. — Ay, iu the catalogue ye go for men. -Maclieth. Human nature turned loose into an unfcnocd field cuts queer capers. This we have seen fully illustrated throughout our entire study of the California flush times. Why it does so, or from what turned loose, it does not know. It knows that it is loosened from somethinij:, and beini; like certain oases set free by certain salts, its behavior under the new conditions is peculiar. ]3ut the capers thus cut being of the first rank, and the most superior of their kind, may l)e railed classical ; being queer they may bo called abnormal. Man's antics are Imt aberrations of development ; tiiey are a phase of physical and intellectual revolution whose origin and circumstance are according to con- ditions. Until to some extent set at libertv, human nature never knows that it has been bound ; and when it be- gins to know and feel its bonds, it camiot tell by what powers it was enslaved. And even when its iiou fet- (■248) 1; MEN AND GODS "■^o «„■ s„el, word, as^^f'T-^'^ ^""M I.avol, t '"iig "I'Pi'oiitioosliin an «,;^ ^ ' '"' ''■''8 sorved a "" «"."cl to say to 1,"^.*'^?,J ';';""? °f J™rs, it wiK ■■-I'fiii- along tiK, lane nf M^ •* '""''''^'•' "''y Sio lou ''^tural and art ficial eio^ Jl ^"'™ '■'™tfd on overy ;'«oe, feel, or tlwnk ? fiefo/fr" "''.*'''-^' '■«''"«in? "10 men of Yortv-nino 7k *'"' ''""""S liitJior nf «"<' -ul by lawVradSsT", ''""'"'° «<d My .'■■•o f-ra „,„„,„,;t they wel fi '"'T\'^'"'"^^-^iZ &'.S'"'^^^^-'«S^t,t: ;.';;r '" ^-" .^ntod u,r fc: 7f, ■"""/ ti^' ''•'"^ way roun<l tlio w„rld L , 'l,"*^.*'""" travelled ;:;;.y .oaclK.d the .,„;r^dy"tX* ""- -'-tinati„n' "liat a mixture of natter^ I r- ,T/''™» tlioir lives :'"• ;""' ™Mshino still runn-r I *>' '""""' "'"l Mve t "' ;l"' niiM-st of all la, ' °1,*'' T'*' «it'"'>.t and '■■'■'« te„.i„„tion ;:, t;^:; s:i'i"'™«--- <'™ti.: h,;;'' i;. I 'I If 2S0 CLASSICAL ABNORMITIES. All sprinkled was the wide ocean with f3hi[)s, the wavy plains with moving congregations. One is the counterpart of the other ; the ocean is but billowy hills and restful plains, the mountains petrified waves. All the world was up, and every man wished to be a-top of it; for long ages ago the golden crop was sown, and now the golden har\'est is to be gathered. Following the phantom hope, following the fantastic visions oi his brain, starboard, larboard, now to the south, now to the west and north, fitful fate leading, ten thousand men were on these ships whose thousand roads were here converging. Virtue, health, knowl- edge, fame, wealth, and heavenly expectation all lay in this one direction. Drifting south toward the burning sun, I being also there, softer and warmer broke the breeze upon our brow, and warmer grew the waves as, sailinir southward from out the black night and thundering sky, we dashed into the day- light. The sky was studded with new stars; and nightly came the bashful moon creeping timidly up from the horizon far behind the clouds, trembling at her own presumption after so gorgeous a display of the sun's majesty. Round the land's end and steering nortliward, with certain thousand leagues yet to sail, three several times with chafing spirits in unwel- come rest we lay twelve days wasting of ftimine and weariness, waiting the tardy wind. Yet presently with fresh wind we onward swiftly drive again as if for our sliip. as for that of the ancient mariner, the wind opened before and closed behind. As Anaxu- goras remarked of hades, the distance to California in those days was about the same from one place as from another. There arc evils springing from ocean travel, yet one cannot but be imi)roved by it. Go on board a steamer, shut yourself in your room, throw yoursrlf on your bunk, and even amidst the frequent paroxysms arising from troublous unrest, the intellect seems to enlarge and become luminous like the phosphorescent tile s( Ov, Passio J'»und liH-k, I"_'oJ,s, J iff 'less, tile Sie •Sllovvv'" yi'iitJy THE COMING HITHER. ~u'S ttSr'Y , ^'"'o the mindt every throe of selsick^^Tnf *!f ^'P' ^ ''»ve 1 1 ''•"*■ ■"«> passing o,or it withTh- ^"°.''' "'"' "'c stal- j-nes, and „11 th^S- bel„„„i„T'''' *'": ""I^^ «■'<! little '■His, as ^'noas carried t-^^^nS^f *''!?" ^^ "^^^ 1 ™^e seen upon a bapk.rro,,„,i !,/ f f^'«"i nvor ennig-strcaked cl,.ud-wa?s T,? • ■""''^' •>'"«. "sht- a l-eated furnaee, ^yhl ZtZ"''^ ".' "'f'''»"Se>-^Ike a-.<l a garden is tl,t sS rf"t,7t/''r"'' "^ Nevada, "en gold to drink, tl e r thirs t "f'^^'T^'.^'*'*' «»^^«' 'i'ey will roar before VL 5^ '"-'"'« •'"sire, and A-.dthi,g„u,^:X« '- word a "- -ivil!«;tir ; wbat others have do, oX; t,'^ T"''' «'-'''«™ "■e t„„e must rest satisfied %>!"" *'•' ""'' ^ f'-r passionless plain, To^^ ttlT '''""^'' "'« Mistered >"und the sunbnr, t hiUs ad'' ,°^ «'W ground, >■'« k, then down where iC '""''' ""■'l''''"? "^ ■•"«-' ''"'Is, and the rivers iro u, i ^'''^^ '^"'^"'^ Putiid ;''l^^s, they con,e at k„T;tht%"r';'''^''"'-''=«' -^ Ml CLASSICAL ABNORMITIES. chasinc: hills in low rounded rvthm, while November's moisture tints the gray plats with green, and the swelling bud begins to push from the branches of the trees their dry leaves. " Eureka 1" exclaimed Archimedes, as the method of determining specific gravity flashed upon him while in the bath. " JCureka 1 " cried the gold-thirsty thous- ands as, striking their picks in the gravelly bottoms of the Pactolian streams, they turned up the glittering sand wliich was to behoarmg balm for all the nations. In the ho})o of a sudden ac(|uisition of wealth there is that which strikes the imagination and rouses the spirits not found in the patient plodding walks of in- dustrj' or commerce. At such times the mind be- comes so inflamed, and tlie judgment so warped, that the venturer closes the eye to danger and disappoint- ment, and visions of the coveted treasure only absorb the mind. To tliese early diggers California was the Ompha- los, the earth's navel-stone, the very centre of created things ; she was what Ithaca was to Ulysses. A mngh, wiUl nurBe-land liut whose crops are men, A land wluTc, girt liy friends and foes, A nuiii niiglit say tlie thing he wouhl. Thoy were no brainless brood of mad adventurers, though among tliem were riiunv such. They were gods, and god-makers. First of all labor was deified, digging for gold being no child's play, but work — labor and rags. Into Jove's hands was placed a l)i('k, ami ^linerva was made to stand in the state seat; Jupiter was not permitted to go naked, neithci' nm.st he wear store clothes. Thcv themselves dis- played tlieir contempt of conventionalities by dressing as badly as they could, and if by chance one of them became suddenly rich, he dressed worse than the rest. Some, if they did not attempt the perfect nudity of the Picards in Flanders, and ape Adam in paradise, canie near to it, their wardrobe being shirt and over- alls, with the shirt usually loft ofi", do Wl uati ncr.s temj a joi W was i a par must ti \'ate( S'-'Worg tin's is f'lMliJy. liiore Ti Toss and to ^aJls an P''ide-ta and fvri iHir fru ^y'ith t] V't a]] Tiiere '^I'tween /"■"!,'ress hkv. ail ■^'•thiiig from tiie ^^' 'Unities It t rpi 253 7 f'o devotion to a eaure'- Ll. "'"""""' "Vct self- » i'erever the aohiovom^J rf fl" i?~"'"' »" the rest ""t"lto tl.o tickiingof a fit? "''"•'"' ««•' '■« ^honf: "^^'aml quacWy. Asdm 7 '7''!*'™'-«t"beel,Ja^ '•■rs IS not usually rX^n'^^ I"-«fes,n,jf su,x,.rior n,an "mi'orance hotel LCTrLll?,," ''■"' "^ '••"■■ni"." a a journa <,f extra 14^.3"? P"'''-^^* ''fhn.srand ,,Jlfl"^ Californfa t cb f^i?r;';^ """■■^l-Per »as the bare stretch ,>f earth n ., "•>"""o'- There a paradise for wild men b^ V °"'.''« more? It ^^ ;"U« be swept and ga^Wstd ^"\T''^i'""'^ ixtslt < '%'"ig a government v., fi "*-'^''"' * day of „oJ, ■vated, ancf by and ^ "ties t !i^"'!''«''ed, Ian Is^ i": *wers, ehurches, hZses „f "' '''"' "'eir street, ^'ambln,,, shops, hospit* °L P~««tution, scho.t: t MS is going on, inVld itio" J ■'"■ ^"'^ ^-hilo al lll^^S^^^lSl'rfe-thela^^^ -liicre Was Iio».q • v wits. ;;;.;^r » •-.^■•- "g "a 7:„rihr 1' "--""-ibed ."%"-ess, change. ° Like an tt f '''^' ''''■"""nt of y--; all the foS.es of n^tl 1 "'r",'"'"'' "f "'atte X.. h,ng was fixed, nothh "5a sh" r '^"''-'^ I" "'"•"^t "m the shores of time in"J fi 1 "'*"«• Launched et;T„ities, they cou d s m 1 boundless sea , f tl!; '-^■■■o'Iingwith{heran:':!fd:S;;."- -i- of Lrlh I, 284 CLASSICAL ABNORMITIES. Very different was the Califoriiian nation in its making from the American nation. In the settle- ment of New England there was an agreement in religion, in politics, in morals and manners, in every- thing appertaining to the new conmionwealth. One was as prim and puritanical as another. All were death on sin, and although they had so lately fled from persecution, they were little behind their perse- cutors in requiring all men to believe what they be- lieved. This fanaticism was the strongest element of their union, the most exalted of Plymouth-rock senti- ments. In California the moral ideal was not nation- making, or meeting-house-making, but money-making. The meanest of occupations, however, was saturated with thought. It was an epoch of expansion, follow- ing a long period of concentration of ideas, both uitoii these shores, among the Hispano- Americans, and at the east, where intellect was more slowly but none the less surely marking out the pathway of its final emancipation. There were yet new moralities under the sun as well as new lands. Coascicnce, which was once con- sidered an original faculty, was now regarded as the product of an association of ideas. And under tlu^ new survey, right and wrong assumed original prerog- atives. And as the primary elements of the st)cial structure in California, more than in any spot or time the world has ever seen, were abstracts of the be,^ t elements of the foremost nations of the earth, so tlio body politic in its completion and entirety was socoirI to none. Every element of pioneer character was in- stinct with directness and efficiency. For the matter of that, there were among tluni men without a country, men who never had a country, who, bom upon the wing, were accustomed to icst on any spot where they happened to light, and to tit their ears to any name given them. Like animals of an elevated type, while the oruan- ism grew rapidly, the organs of the body politic of H inher robe, noss I her s CahTo Th( m the uousnt <'ia] ini will ea that wj nature fL'ption.' P'>sition JuIIs SUi iiivss. J ^•'Uinot i foine in ^'le chea «i leper. As in peacJicd ^^ "^^O OF A TOV NATTOK. California develou. > , " ""™''- W tl.e „.„«=ierwtri?l^ .^'g-tion was good k,„ *J'e brain in^^nf ,^*^"' tae bones carfJln ■ ^ ""^ we ny-]oaves at the hn^rln • ^ ^'^''* ^ eu, was '"'l»s on the limitlc« r " !."«'" safely launnl^ f *" '■"-trained aUw '"^''" "^ *» ^-u^htT-illMu! ■"Iiwi'tan"ran/ "".'»«»'» ii'folicities is th. robe, dvod i,r V ?^"-"'""«'t, wl,icl, Jik *i| ''''™" of ''«'• Cee""f """-^ into tlieiea™ f m*^"'" IV^'""'- in tl'otvorJd.'^Butl/'-'^' ""'' *''« "*«' natured n na 'ntore,,u^e'i,a,!rta„!,TT ''!;■«' "'"' «■"•"" \] 2S6 CLASSICAL ABNORMITIES. esty, it was becoming really unsafe in California to profess or practice virtue too boldly. It was safe to display only one's vices. And it is safe to say that since ante-Caisarian days, for a time three of the Latin deities at least wci'o nowhere more devoutly worshipped than hero : Plutus, Venus, and Bacchus, each one of wliom was known to have put to death tliousands of liuman beinjjcs without a liciiise. Now and then was one as lucky as Barney O'Ricr- don, who, when he was lost at sea, got hnnself paid for piloting the ship that showed him the way home. Others were obliged to live like plovers, that is to say on little else tlian wind, yet all the while as sure of discovering treasure by means of their superior knowl- edofQ or luck as was William Leurand bv his scara- heii'<, or gold-bug indicator. Many would have turned schoolmasters like the younger Virginia scions upon the bursting of the Alabama bubble, but unfor- tunately there were no children to be tauglit. It takes time and sex to make men, or even youth for discipline. They had no ame for law. Cases wore decided by the pistol beforehand and tried afterwards. The most insignificant quarrels were settled by a resort to arms, frequently resulting in the murder of one of the par- ties, the survivor finding it often easier to obtain an ac- quittal for the crime of murder than some simple mat- ter of justice hi the courts. Whenever a murderer chose to come forward and stand trial he was almost sure to be acquitted on the ground of self-defence, though he who touched his neighbor's ])roperty was hunted and hanged. In politics they were as dispu- tatious as the Athenians. Rude men formed into a new and crude society, seize the few pleasures that first present themselves, and if these are of a lower order than hitherto ha^c been in accordance with the habits and tastes of sonic of them, tlie more refined soon sink to the level of the rest, and accept with thankfulness anything that e or baye, at t/,o n,„o„ f,. Lv T-'"*'"''' '''"• "'«* " tl.c,r l.„pes until the verv- «I?1 "" ,""^ ^'"liUS ]f<!« tl,o l„„.i^on. Their S^,f,"',''r "'^ ™'"'-« «mks M^,r hopes, fears, lovorhate "^''^' '"''" H<1, golden «■»"! Sides Streaked win, • ."'"y ^aw the7ii„„„ ^I'rinkled the pll urT "•«"'<'• "'«' i'oW dust )';;-■• it conferred 'tS-'»»eh f« /he permanent ;, ' "' ".■nnmnities, as for t ,e^, .'""^ attraction i„ •'"t'ouces, which is thi k P'"^'>ase of present in ,7 """-I. to whtl VonVr •'^%»°' «bStdv . n,ake rich the prji?! '"S,^; .ff Money wilj ■""<' ).v having more tim,. ;. '"^ ,'^ Commerce bc^ne- "■'.tals „f wheat wV fee,," "'"^^- Two thous^d tljousand centals; buttw„tf ""•■«, '"""ths than^^e •-llvor depreciated ZeiZ , l°r 'i1.''°"'"-« in gold "r "■■' ulation will car^ o„ ,^f *'""'»? the anmu„t ^n ti'"us«,d. "y "" »° more traffic than „„" "r'o extravagent. A L^ "'"'"' "•"■ '"' desires tie reward of g^at hanlsLL„-^':'' S"^*' rieJii, "" "'« mduljjenco. CarnZ ;.W? , '"' ^''?''' ^''""W e,,. ,„,.,.„ J, •' s with him such expccta- 258 CLASSICAL ABNORMITIES. tion, he could ill brook the disappointment tliafc too frequently awaited his arrival, and the hopet* and failures that followed only ripened him for any excess. As a rule everybody arrived in Califoniia poor; many of them remained poor, undergoing more or loss suffering; and yet there never was what might j)n)p- erly be called a poor class upon the coast. Spread out before the adventurer were metal-veined hills and fertile valleys ; and with such fair provisions, united with health and strength, he was rich though he had not a dollar, and did not know where his diimer was to come from. To the wise man no circumstances could offer greater inducement for the exercise of self-control, for indul- gence was always attended with great risk to hcaltli and life; and yet, self-control was about the last thing of which men there were thinking. Money tlu y wanted ; behavior was unrestricted. And yet, it soon became apparent that in one sense the penalties of extravagance and dissipation were not exacted witli the same regularity in the new community as in tlio old. Rioting was not attended by disgrace ; poverty did not necessarily follow prodigality, nor want, pov- erty. There were bushels of gold in the placers, tin- property of any one who would take it out, and tli<; petmiless of to-day might be the envied possessor of ii pocket-full to-morrow. The improvident sometinu s seemed to succeed as well as the careless. Obviously this tendency to gratify present desire s at the expense of the future arose from immediiitt* surroundings, lieckless expenditures and unbridltd passions were qualities not inherited from the midilK' classes of staid connnunities. Improvident Englisli- man and thrifty German, alike, on touching California soil seemed to lose self-control, and seize proxiniato pleasures regardless of future penalties. Too many of them, like Ulysses in the island of Calypso ami in the halls of Circe, forgot their Penelope, and guvo themseJves UD tn f J ^'^ '"wTT- '""''""»"«'-«"*" of a „„, Man desires f„od a,„| ra^,'", "'" ™m "fall f„rccl m wJiftf .-a 11 ^. ' ®"'"o fame ami nil , •^* ®"'»e CHAPTER XI. SAN FRANCISCO. Superanda omnia fortuna ferciulo est. — Virijil To the Greeks, Delphi was tlie centre of the eartli ; to Jews and Christian.s, Jerusalem; to Californiaiis, San Francisco. Pastoral San Francisco was but a hamlet. Thou<xli a seaport, it had little to do with the sea, and Wiis more like a cluster of houses in the country than a commercial town. The presidio maintjiined tlie dii;- nity of government and war, and tlie mission the diu- nitv of reliyjion, so that for the traffickers at the cove little diufnity remained or was requir<d. Even wlir;; the ijalvanic shock of uold-discoverv .struck the place, it did not innnediately assume larijfe proportions, l»iit ratlier stood stupified for a moment before settin<^ out on its broad pathway of pro^j^ress. Hence it was that durinur the winter of 1848-!) the place did not grow nmch, nor was it very large l»y the end of 1849. The principal Wuildings were clus- tered around the plaza, or Portsmouth s(piare ; hriek structures were few, and thcn^ was not one renlly substantial building in the place. The gn^ater pnrt ef the town consisted of tents and small shanties nuule out of packing-boxes, with some not very good hous( s of more pretentious construction. The f(;w travelled streets were little better than mire during the rains. while the sidewalks were made of barrel staves and narrow pieces of board. (260) T rouii and tlio .'tew and ( llOUS( stoiy many old h TJi, Peop] UKUHK (sweep to ussi •iiid j)[ and te witli s] ers J UK ti\e m; old. 'J lijied u lii.^Ii-w, and Sa line, sonie w Califoi'] 'lie ,saii( ai(tl)(r I '""ek an( ^vater, t Justily III TJh, s *'n, and llellow fi t'UuusJy, STREETS AND BUILDINGS ^' The autumn of 1850 saw quite a oiiv-like settlement round Ycrba Buena cove. Prices of most necessltit .s and gome luxuries had come down within the reach of tlie masses, but were still hijjfh enough. Seveial ;k'\v j(jurnals were started, such as the Pacljlc yars una ('(»n)ncrcial linlhtin. The El Dorado gambling- house, from a canvas tent, had become a fine tliree- story brick building. Tlie bay was noisy with steamers, many of which were transformed sailing V)oats, with tild litilcis whicli l)urst with the slightest jirovocatioii. The tire of 18jO i)ut an end to many irregularities. l*eople chen began to build in a niore fubstantial niiimier. The fire of ISol, however, mad a clean HWet'p of all that bad been done, and the city began to assume a more regular a|)[)earance. Brick housis and ))lanked streets took the place of the huddled huts and tents of the previous years. The bay was alive with sliipping; by midsunnner over a hundred steam- ers had entered and departed. "Old things are passing away," sighed the medita- ti\e man, by old things referring to things two years old. The hills were behig cut down and the hollows filled ui). Alontgomery street, which was the original liigh-water mark, was now in the heart of the city, and Sansome street, which had been filled up between Jackson and California sl^reets, was the m^w water line. The wattu* lots between Montijomt'rv and San- some were first j)iled, and then filled in. South of Calitbinia, the steam excr'-itm' was l)usy scooping up tlic saiid-ldlls, and dropping Uiem into tlu> low places along the border of the ct)ve. A rail-track was laid (Ml Battery street, ai>ng which cars wen- seen fiying hack and forth all <lay, dum})ing their loads into tlie water, the conductor, mounted on the foremost truck, lustily blowing his horn to givi^ warning of approach. Tlu^ space bounded by Montgomery, J^icific, Jack- son, and Kearny streets was, in the s[)ring of 1851, a IidIIow filled with little wooden huts planted promis- cuously, with numberless recesses and fastnesses filled iLr: I '. 262 SAN FRANCISCO. with Chilians — mon, women, and ohiklron. The place was called Little Chile. The women appeared to be always washing, but the vocation of the men was a [)uzzle to the passers-by. Neither the scenery of tlie 1)lace nor its surroundings were very pleasant, particu- arly in hot weather. On one side was a slhny bog, and on the other rubbish heaps and sinks of offal. Notwithstanding, it was home to them, and from their filthy quarters they might be seen emerging on Sun- days, the men washed and doan-shirted, and the women arrayed in smiling faces and liright-colored apparel. They could work and wallow patiently through the week provided they could enjoy a little recreation and fresh air on Sunday. Whcn(;ver a vessel arrived from a home port, the camping ground presented a lively appearance. Round the chief hut or t'lcmhi lounged dirty men in parti-colored scrapes and round-crowned straw hats, smoking, drinking, and betting at inonte. Most of these were either on their way to, or had lately returntid from, the mines. Walk Kearney street at night from California street to the Plaza. The shops are all closed, all but the saloons, mostly attended by a French or Spanisli woman, and Cheap John auction stores, whose cri( s in husky voice and bad breath strive to roar above the jingling bells, before each door, where every one tries to ring down his neighbor. Passing along you step aside to avoid some reeling drunkard runniiiLj into you, and as you approach the plaza, the blazing light from the thickly planted saloons glows in the thick, murky air without, and strains of mingled music from different bands fall upon the ear. Pouring in and out of temples dedicated to Bacchus and to For- tuna, are crowds of people of every hue, and ton^ur, and character under heaven. Building in the autumn of 1853 was active, and tlie structures were of a much more durable character than was the custom to rear hitherto. Most of the hou com liigl tlwe the ] dene havii of bi 1^'ran and n 1k' f<M ^)r b] '"'•anie, J louses Jiouses <<»n.sid( <|Uakes "!^ain.st i>tino' 1 lilon; V, ••rait- i,: vate iiu tlieni to ^\as fjiri t'ver, tli I'i'ick dv «|>mo ot South Vontgoi M'as t\ni " I cai JiiVs, in a t'lo J)tli , J''ars one "f" San <"<'Ugll fc '•'ifgest cl, ^"d Rincc ^''''»in thes STYLK AND QUALITY OF BUILDmOS. houses for business purposes, both in tlie cities and in eounty towns, and mining camps, were of brick, not liij^h but well built. In San Francisco even private dwellings were many of them of brick, but owing to tl>e rains of winter and the fojis of summer brick resi- dences were never popular. A few years later, after liaving thoroughly tested tliem, no one built dwellings of brick; there arc now wooden dwellings in San Francisco which cost the owners to build $300,000, and not a sin<rle fine residence of brick or stone can 1h' found in the city. It is not the cold or damjMiess, for brick buildings can be made as warm and dry as IVame, though this climate does not require very warm houses. San Franciscans do not care to have tiieir jiouses too warm; nor with all the fogs and rains i.s it considered a very damp climate. The fear of earth- quakes at one time exercised the strongest influence against brick dwellings; this, while there was no ex- isting necessity for them, and tliey were in addition more costly, and plainer, with fewer facilities for elab- oiaU ovnamentation which characterizes modern pri- vate iiviuses in this country, caused a prejudice against them to spring up, and the fashion for frame houses was formed, which still remains. At one time, how- tver, there was quite a movement in the direction of brick dwellings of a plain but comfortable character, some of which may yet be seen at North Beach, Soutli Park, and scattered at intermediate ])oints. Montgomery Block, by Halleck, Peachy, and Billings was the largest building of the season. " I can well remember," says William Van Voor- hios, in an address before the California Pioneers, on the <)th of September, 1853, "and I am not by many years one of the 'oldest inhabitants,' when the bay of San Francisco afforded ample room and verge I nough for the easy and unobstructed passage of the largest class mail steamers anywhere between Clark and Rincon [)oints; when one could make one's wiy from the summit of Telegraph hill to the old Paikcr B:tf!' •m m m mil iiil S64 SAN FRANCISCO. house by \vlndin«^ down its baro sides, now Broadway and l*a( ific streets, and leaping the slough, now Jack- son street, wading tlirough the bay, now Montgomery street, up a sand bank, now Wasliington street, to an open sj^ace, now Kearney street ajidtlic Plaza, thence fifty paces soutli to the point of destination I can well remember, also, when an unobtrusive casa, com- pan'd with the immense structures which now rise heaviiiward here and there at magnificent distaiu'cs, ^vns all that, in the way of internal, or for that mat- tt!r, external improvements, met the eye; when the Parker house, the old Portsmouth house, the United Stat(>s hotel, Howard's store, th(> venerable adohe on the IMaza, then a custom-house, afterwards a broker's sliitp, ami now no more, with one or two other shan- ties, looked to us immigrants of '4D like ]»alaces; when seraiK'd natives chased the wild bullock over the sur- rounding hills, satisfying a lean lank traftic, not com- inerc<s with tlie ottering of abide or horn; when a Cirme.'e was a Iiisks vnfunv, and a w«»man on the street-- wl\i(Ji was an imaginary line drawn in red and blue ink on pastt; -board — an absolute and unmitigated w<vnder." Tl'o pihvdriver, both the ninn and the machine, was an institution of San Francisco's bal>vlu>od. Without tl»e driving of piles, the water-lots of tJie cove <!»«u)d not be rvclainied, and without their re( lamation own- ership was of little avail. The manner of it was in thiswisit; fi-om one end of a lumlif-rinij scow I'ose, liigli in the air, two p<n'pendi(ular beairis. betw<iii wliii'h played a largo lump of iron. A primitive stcaui- ongine, staniling back of tin upi'igltt beams, tlrove the ma<'liinery. On or near the sj)ot destined to be r'- daimed tloatod hundreds of piles, that is, young tiers, from twelve to eighteen inclu'S in diameter, cut thirty or f(!rtv feet in K'Uijfth, cniefuliv trimmed and sharp- i.n\v{\ at one end. With its claws, vvhich were attached to the e]id of a chain, the maclilne seized one of these floating logs near the lar|^e end, and with a Nviieu'zing SOME OF THE INIIAKITANTS. 2C5 \v:i5 kout Iwu- iu Icrn laiii- irty I'lu'tt king rattle lifted it up, planted the point in the proper place, bringing the large end under range of the iron block or hannner, whicli was lifted up and dropped ui)on it in successive blows. The sorriest of all sink-holes was the old city hall. Originally theJenny Lind theatre, which proved to be a bad speculation, it was by potent, grave, and rivcreiul city fathers, for a j)r<»i)er ct)nsideration of their jxK-krts by the seller, converted into a niunicij)al building. The price paid was $J00,000, to whi( li must b.' added $40,000 for alterations. It was a i)lace that few re- spectable persons would care to enter except as driven there by necessity. It was connected with everything unhappy, uidioly. The basement was a vault filled with drunkards, vagabonds, thieves, with tlu^ usual attendants on the fraternity. On the first floor were tlie municipal offices, the mayor's court-room behig the tnost sickening ]>lace of all. \j\) one flight weie the rooms of the city council, the city treasurer's ofliee, and the district court chambers. In the third floor were more offices. Su1)sequently wert> addiKl to the niain (edifice the old gambling shops on cither side, of (•lie of wliich was niade the hall of records, and of the other, offices. A. motley crowd wns ever thronging the streets; the tato()ed islander, the solenm Chinaman, and the sloveidy Chilian mingled with the more dcuided wliite jind blaek from li^urope and Africa. A. mighty talii?- maii hiid transformed a wilderness into a place of busy industry, a barren ])euin.sula into a blooming city ; and the .same subtle influenc(! was sdllat work, blending n.\tional antipathies with kindly spm[)iithies, and har- monizing the antagonistic elements <>t' this sti'ange brotherhood. Blessed be gold when it can be brought to such uses? Thus rapidly was an orderly, iiiti>)ligont population replacing ti»e hurrying gold -seeker.s. Those who now |»urpose<l to makt^ California their home, were resolved that the scum from eastern and European cities, and •r lili 2C6 SAN FRANCISCO. the convicts from tlie British penal colonics, ahouki not bo permitted to mar the fair prospects of the state, winch sentiment led to popular tribunals, des- cribed in another volume. Hundreds of Micawbers were always waitlnjr for something, anything, to come along — waitin^^ about tlie post-office, custom-house, and other fedcal and municipal free-soup houses ; standing in auction rooms, and str<»lling down Long Wharf The country was filled with would-be great men — men who measured the greatness of their own worth by the fancied littleness of their neighbor. Every bosom beat high with aspirations. I have said that in the absence of old-time associa- tions, some were disposed to be lonely at times, to tlie damage of tlieir morals. While this was true, it was likewise true that, altlioughin a strange land, isolated, without friends or female companions, exposed to temptations, reverses and hardships, the 'forty-niner found much in the form of a substitute for ennui. There was an indescribal^le stimulant in the business atmosphere, in mingling with men, not unlike that so often glorified in the physical, which chased away lone- liness, generated excitement, stri})ped time of its mo- notony, and glued tlie heart of the adventurer forever to tlie soil A Ocrman editor of San Francisco is responsible for the following, which he tells for a true story; One day a German was leisurely riding ahmg Sansome street, near Saerain«'nto, when he heard a })istol shot behhid him, heard the whizzing of a ball, and felt it strike his hat. Turning about he saw a man with a revolver in his hand, and taking off his hat he found a bullet Jiole in it. "Did y(»u shoot at me ?" he asked. "Yes," replied the other, "that is my horse; it was stolen from me a short time acjo." "You must bo mi.staken," said the German, "I have owned tins horse for three years." "Well," exclaimed the other, " now that I come to look at it, I believe I am mis- PLAY-COmO. 267 taken. Excuse mo, sir; won't you take a drink?" The rider dismounted, tied his horse, and the two found a drinkitii5-sah)on near by. Entering it they railed for their respective beverages, talked the aflair over in a cool connnou-place u.anner, and parted friends. Doctor Ver Mehr gives to C. V. Gillespie the credit of having the only carriage in San Francisco in Scp- toml)er 1849. Better still, the worthy doctor gives him the credit of taking him and his family up in it when lie landed on the beach at Montgomcrv street, iiftor a seven months' voyage round Cape Horn. A Indv in a carriaire was then no conunon siijht. Pass- ing up Washington street on their way to the residence of Frank Ward, corner of Stockton and Green streets, the new-comers met a group of Frenchmen straggling along the uneven ground compf)sing the sidewalk, when one of them, pointing to the plaza, then a sandy lot, called out to his comrades, "Voila, messieurs, la place royale !" Just then they spied the carriage with its fair freight, when in an instant off' went their hats, and all shouted sinmltaneouslv, " Vi vent les dames!" Many theatres and otlier places of amusement sjirang up, in which the performance and attendance v.'ere both good. The stork companies were far above tlie average in Europe and the east. In California, poor acting, like poor ])reaching, or poor horse-racing, (lid not pay; it recjuired more than ordinary ability jimong the performers to hold in their seats for two or three hours their discriminating and restless audi- ence. Somewhat expensive it was for the young mer- eliant or salaried clerk, but wliat were they to do after wnik, with no home and no congenial female society? Almost anvthing was better than loiterhiLir about gambling saloons, or other dens of vice, with which the town was filled, and which it was difficult always to esca[>e. So it was that Callfornians were groat play -goers, and in their gatherings might bo seen as varied a 268 SAN FRANCISCO. crowd as over gathered in the foreigners* gallery of an Athenian theatre in the days of Euripides. An English sailor might be seated beside a Boston mer- cliant; a hybrid — half Aztec, half Spaniard, beside a French nobleman ; a Sweedish consul beside an Italian fisherman ; farmers, mechanics, and miners all tosjether. Amonij the men and women of the statje time throws a glamour which softens their ruder parts, and heightens the charm all feel in their tragic and comic fictions. The effect of the drama on California was most beneficial. The craving for excitement had become to the people a second nature. Business gave the mind employment during the day, but at night recrea- tion seemed necessarv. In the absence of home and Social tics, the Ljaiiiin<jf-tablc asid the *jlitteri:i«; saloons of prostitution wore too often the resort of men too good for such places ; but when theatrical performances of the better sort were offered, there was a marked decline in the patronage of the gaming-table and liquor saloons. The tastes of the conmmnity were not so low as circumstances had hitherto made thent appear. As anmsenients of a higher order were intro- duced, those of the baser sort lost their charm. As early as IS.*) I there was scarcely a mining town of a thousand inhabitants without its tiieatre. To the homeless, liouseless wanderer the theatre was a blessinuj. And notwithstandini; all that has i)een said of San Francisco looseness and inunorality, tliere never was a time wlien a licentious drama was cncouragi'd, or even tolerated. Far above the a\ t rage tlieatre-goer of New York, London, and Paris, in rv 'fined taste and appreciation were those of San Francisco. Lovers of tragedy who attended the Jenny Lincl on the niiiht of the 14th of Januarv 1851 to witness rizarro, were regaled witji a recital of real life which ecjualled anything tluy might Jiavc seen upon the stage. It appears that Airs lianibleton, who was ti) THEATRES. 269 have acted a part that night, did not live in harmony witli l»er huslmnd, but found the society of Mr Coad, a member oi" the same company, more congejiial. Matters Iiad not proceeded far when Mr Hambleton brought on the climax in a storm of passion. Con- fronting the lovers, who were guiltless of any crimi- nality, he made the man promise to quit the country instantly. The woman seeing all hope of happiness liad gone, took poison and died; whereat Coad also took poison and attempted to die, but could not. There was no performance at the Jenny Lind that night. Jeems Pipes to the San Francisco Eveiunfj Picayune writes from Sacramento the 2 1st of August 1850: — " To dessippate my retched sonsa}' shuns I go to the M street Pmificke Tlirnire; by the way, one of the most perfekt spcciments of arkitekshure in the wurld. The band led by Mons Bona were a playin a Jenny Lind poker, and the ordience, graced by sum hiterest- ing phemales, wos quite large, orderly, and respekta- bel. The play was * Honey Moon,' Mr ami Mrs Tliorne, from Chatham Theatre, the principal attrak- shun. Six months ago upon the same spot wos I sittin on a lo<:c, wittling:, and nuthinu; to see but stumps, and treas, and a few dirty tents — so nmch for the go-ahedativeness of Amerikans." The signals on Telegraph hill became so many and so intricate, and withal were so important to anx- iously gazing expectants, that an enterprising lithog- rapher conceived the idea of putting them on a chart where all could see and learn tluMu. ( )ne night sliort- ly after tlie publication of this chart, a niiWKboy sat in the top loft of the theatre, cracking peanuts, and criti- ( ising the sons and daughters of Thespis, as they strutted their brief parts before him. Presently one rushed upon the stage with arms extended at right angles with his body, and exclaimed, •' What means this mv lord?" The bov who not onlv knew well the chart, but whose fancy was then revelling in the an- m SAN FRANCISCO. Ir ticipated profits of his paper, cried out, " Side-wheel steamer 1' The house, and the actor's arms, came down simultaneously. A story is like-wise told of a newly arrived emi<rrant across the plains, who, in ap- plying; this chart to the interpretation of the signals, mistook a windmill which st«)od near by for the arms of the telegraph, and counting u[) the fans concluded that a fleet of clippers was coming in. Twice or thrice a month the mail steamers, connect- ing San Francisco with New York by way of Panamii, departed and arrived. Both were peculiar and nota- ble occasions. It is difficult for one who has not lived it through to realize with what nervous pulsations these vessels were watched as they came and went. California was then well-nigh out of the world, be- yond the pale of civilization, of sabbath and home in- fluence, of all the sweet memories and amenities that make life endurable. Her people were voluntary exiles, cut ort' from friends and all congenial society, doomed for a period to a life of self-abnegation and hard labor, and these days of steamer arrivals ami departures were as links in the life-chain that was to bind tlie future to tiie past. The present went for nothing, or worse than nothing, pcrliaps ; for it might be a niglitmare, a horrible dream, a something to be blotted from the memory as soon as ended. Wiicn the steamer came in with passengers from home — tlu; whole eastern seaboard, and west to the IMissouri rivt r, was then home to the expatriated of California — witli perhaps friends on board, but abt>ve all with letters, what a flood of tender recollection rushed in U[)on the soul ! Therefore when the signal flag was unfurled, and the wind-mill looking indicator on telegraph liill stretched forth its long ungaiidy woouen arms and told the town of a steamer outside, a thrill went throujjh the heart like that which Gabriel's trumpet sends into the fleshless bones of the dead. Some rushed tot clifl' line as fi appc grov as it boar (rate put ( antin Alerc iiies' steam the n the m ing W( Tlu and n ness-ii l*rou<l citv h'i •nultiti djsdain Now s stretcii •IS she < •shore b are tJie may be tliat sea tlie ripi stronger ►Some a •'uriosity side of ^vllarf; o .ship is wi ARRIVAL OF THK STEAMER. '271 to the liilla; others mounted horses, and riding to the <'liff, watclied the httle cloud of smoke under the sky- line thicken and blacken; watched the vessel emerge us first the smoke-stack and spars, and then the hull appeared above the horizon ; watched the little speck grow into a great leviathan, as lazily — oli 1 how lazily us it appeared lo those on shore as well as thoso on board — it ploughed the sea and entered the (;ro]den (irate ; then returning, watched the little bouts as tliey put out from shore to board the monster — the quar- antine officer's boat, perhaps, with the yellow flag, the Merchant's Exchange boat, and the express compa- nies* boats; watched the white smoke from the steamer's gun curl up and float away in clouds, while the report reverberating through the streets roused the more abstracted occupants from their soul-absorb- my: work. Then a stream of hacks, and wagons, and tlrays, and men on foot, hotel-runners, working-men, busi- ness-men, and loafers, set in toward the wharf IVoudly the great ship sweeps round the bay to the city front, as if conscious of the admiring gaze of the nmltitude; leisurely, and with majestic dignity, as if disdaining to make an exhibition of her strength. Now she stoj)s her wheels, and yawns, and blows, and stretches her neck, after her fortnight's journey ; then as she drops hito her berth, the crowds on ship and shore begin their noisy jests and salutations. Hearts arc there heavy with anxiety, waiting for tidings it may be which will affect their entire future; but on that sea of upturned faces you find no lowering clouds; the ripiding waves are wreathed in smiles, ami the stronger surges break into hilarity and badinage. Some are there to meet their friends, others from curiosity ; some have climbed from small boats u[) the side of the vessel while she was aj)proaching the wharf; others stand on the tops of piers, and when the ship is within a few feet leap on to the deck, where theie IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) // //^ ^ %> 1.0 IrfiM IIIIIM I.I 12.2 itf IIIIIM 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 .4 6" — ► V] <^ /a 0>i % Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 f/. fe ^ i 272 SAN FRANCISCO. is a scene of embracing, kissing, laughing, and crying, impossible to describe. The passengers land and make their way to the ho- tels, when they luxuriate in a comfortable room, bath, and a table from which food once more seems palata- ble ; clothes are taken from the trunk and put on, the creases in which mark the wearer as a new comer. Meanwhile lines begin to form at the post-office win- dows, although it may be twelve or twenty hours be- fore the mails are ready for delivery. Thither con- gregate the anxiously expectant, the husband and father hungry for news from home, the lover with soft eyes and flushed cheek and tingling nerves, and in whose breast angels and imps alternately beat their tatoo as he waits to learn his fate ; the rough miner, tlie merchant's clerk, the mechanic. Ah 1 never were letters so longed for or so prized. Alone in that mot- Icy crowd, for months without one word from home, the heart steeled to the world around them, deadened in that social Sahara, here was the only solace for heart-sickness, the only sustenance the soul would have perhaps for months to come. Rapidly the lines lengthen, until perhaps five hun- dred persons are gathered there, having the appearance at a distance of a mob, but with the utmost order and regularity, each new-comer taking his place behind the last before him. There is no respect of persons, no crowding or jostling ; any attempt at unfairness is speedily put down by the omnipotent majority. The raganmffin, who everyone knew never wrote or re- ceived a letter in his life, might take his stand besit!(^ the millionaire, and sell his place as opportunity oflercd, when near the window, to some one whose time was more valuable than money, which he frequently did for five, or ten, or twenty dollars. Some bring thoir stools and while away the time reading, smoking, and chewing. Eastern papers are sold by the newsboys, peripatetic cafes and liquor saloons walk about on French legs, and hand-cart hotels are rolled along tlio Jinei dow of a St ages, cursi. disco awak rare c iucn £ of tlie cisco. conjpL shirts and s]< scarcel seem ? see We disguis tlieni ? Loo]< telj nie witJi; . find no tough, iioart w Jiie if yo or paJac 'ittentivc 'lo Avho I ';«ard fro pulse is iHftn. TJ «ort ofga 'juently s On nea: anxious. Cal. AT THE POST-OFFICE. fil> lines dispensing the ordinary edibles of the table. Finally, after long and tiresome waiting, the office win- dow is opened and the line moves forward at the rate of a step in about three minutes. Standing in those lines through hours that seem like ages, outwardly jocund, but inwardly bleeding, the cursings and ribald jests that fall upon the ear mingling discordantly with the purest strains of human affections awakened by tender thoughts and heart-longings, a rare opportunity offers us to see of what stuff thi!se men are made. They are rough-looking fellows, most of them, even if our post-office be located in San Fran- (isco. IVIany of them fossil-featured with bronze complexion, shaggy-haired and unshaven, have torn shirts and ragged pantaloons; while their heavy boots and slouched hats are so worn and full of holes as scarcely to hold together. Are they not what they seem ? Does their aspect in any way belie them ; or see we here men of sovereign and elastic natures so disguised that even their mothers would not know them ? Look into their eyes as you go along the line and tell me if you discovered much that you dare trifle with ; look under the unkempt hair and tell me if you find no intellect, and through the worn vestures and tough, storm-beaten flesh-coverings down into the licart whence ebb and flow the issues of life and tell me if you see there no pleasing pictures, no gardens or palaces where truth and loveliness sit enshrined. If you would know somewhat of them, regard them attentively as they receive and read tlieir letters ; for lie who can open a letter from the home he has not licard from for months without a flush or quickened j)ulse is either a very courageous or a very callous num. This letter-opening at very wide intervals is a sort of gambling with fate, in which hope not unfre- (juently stakes happiness against fearful odds. On nearing the window the face lengthens and looks anxious. The name is given, and the response comes Cal, Int. Poc. in • ) 274 SAN FRANCISCO "Nothing, sir." "Will you please look again says tlie disappointed applicant "I canie round Cape Horn ; they were to send me letters after I had been out a month and it is now six months since I havo heard a word." "I told you, sir, there is nothing hero for you ; the next." This time a letter is forth- coming. Stepping aside, with trembling hand the recipient tears it open and begins to read. Mark the pallor that shortly overspreads the countenance, the stiffening of the muscles of the face, the compression of the livid lip, the wave of agony that mantles the features. In a moment the blood which from every part with one accord rushed to the heart to bi'cak it, returns, but you can see as the man moves off that he is stricken as with a knife-stab, without the mut- tered "Oh God, she is dead!" The next in line may be as frantic in his joy as the other was desolate in his sorrow. All unconscious of his surroundings, ho laughs aloud, kisses the precious missive, and skips and dances like a delighted school girl. There stands one, a man of middle age, noble look- ing and apparently of decided character, intently perusing some closely written pages. He was and yet is honored by his friends at the east, who say if one only escape with honor it is he. Of the church he was a trusted member, in his family an adored husband and father. So great was his own inward sense of strength and right intention that he scorned the idea of demeaning himself, and gave it scarcely a thought. But like every member of the race, he knew nothing of himself until he was tried. Cali- fornia opened his eyes, as thousands of othci*s liave been opened, and showed him a nature wholly differ- ent from what he supposed himself posscaf«ed of. Instead of high religious sentiments and moral purity hitherto enjoyed, he finds himself in the society of harlots, a gambler, an unbeliever. Yet as he reads that letter, written by a tender loving wife whore faith and trust in him the whole world shall iiot shake, STEAMER-DAYS. 273 telling him of her deep abiding love, of her patient waitings and watchings, of her deeds by day and her dreams by night, of the hopes and plans that await his dear return ; telling of his children one by one, how they have grown in goodness and loveliness, how the little one, whom he has never seen, has learned to lisp its father's name in its evening prayer — as he reads the letter which thus so vividly recalls tlie swet t and hallowed past, you may mark the twitcliing of the muscles in his face, the tears trickling down lii?4 cheeks, and the bosom swelling with emotion. Gijin*' to his room he reads and reads again tlio letter, vows reformation ; but over this oasis of his desert life the sands quickly blow, and he soon goes on the old licen- tious way again. Steamer-days, the day before the sailing of the steamer for the ea^, were the great tickings in social and conmiercial time. Bills were made to fall due on those days, letters must be written on that day, and collections and remittances made. Passenijjers nmst get ready, and if not done before, they nmst secure tlieir tickets. They were feverish, fidgety days. From morning till night collection clerks with a pack- age of bills in one hand, and the mouth of a canvas coin-bag slung over the shoulder in the other, were rushing about the streets, and seldom was tlie office lamp extinguished before twelve or two o'clock. On the morning of tlie sailing of the steamer, all work having been finished the day or evening previous, passengers go on board, attended by their friends to see them offl The idle and the curious of every caste and calibre likewise crowd the wharf and decks for an liour or two before the departure. Trunks are taken on board; the passengers, laden with packages of fruit, books, bottles, and boxes, find their respective places. In the cabin, the black bottle Is frecjucntly passed around, and champagne made to flow freely. The forward part of the ship is filled with miners, go- ing home with all the prestige of travel and ad^•cnture 276 SAN FRANCISCO. in strange lands. It is a matter of pride with many to be seen by their friends in their mining costume ; so the bushy head and long beard are protected with care, and every hole in the battered hat, every patch in the woollen shirt, every dirt-stain on the greasy pantaloons, are regarded with hallowed affection. Thus appeariii:j in his native village, with hints suggestive of secreted gold-dust, and inuendoes which seemed to say, " I could tell you a thing or two if I liked," "Perhaps John Robinson came back without his pile, and perhaps he didn't," the returned Califomian is the hero of the hour. It was a common remark that more money went east in the steerage than in the cabin. Some canied buckskin bags of dust in their pockets, others in belts under their shirts, and guarded by an ominous-looking navy revolver. Experience had made many shy of entrusting their hard earnings to banks and express companies, and freight on gold was high. Sometimes a party of two or three would put their fortunes in a carpet-bag, ten or twenty thousand dollars' worth of gold-dust, alternately guarding it, and never leavhig it unwatched for a single instant during the whole voyage from San Francisco to New York, thereby saving in exchange the price of passage for each of them. Notwithstanding all their care, many return- ing miners were robbed by professional sharpers, who infested all the main avenues of travel, and followed their vocation regularly on the steamers between As- pinwall and New York. In the steerage also were many penniless persons, broken in health and spirits, going home to die. There were those, pusillanimous and disgusting individuals, eaten up of disease, already morally dead ; there vfcrc self-pitying unfortunates, whining and complaining, whom success never attends under any circumstances, and who never should have left their mothers' apron- strings; and there were those who had manfully fought the battle and been beaten. Faithfully and a per To confir the to be talk; chang and as from lookin meet ( Were c commt taste fancy nature I UifluenJ LETTERS FROM HOMR 277 J)atiently these last had toiled and suffered, hope and ear alternatmg between fortune and disease, unwilling to give themselves the needed rest and care with wealth and happiness just within their grasp ; and so, with their thin pale faces, and sunken eyes, and hollow cheeks, they feebly drag themselves about with hope crushed, and this world forever lost to them. God grant that they may find some soft hand and sym- pathizing heart to smooth their dying days I The periodicity of this business phenomena contrib- uted largely toward a fitful and spasmodic progress. On these occasions the past and future seemed to mhigle with the present, and hope, regret, and doggetl determination filled the heart with lontjings indescrib- able. Likewise the custom of merchants, and indeed of all classes, of making frequent or occasional trips to the east, for the purpose of seeing their friends, at- tending to business, marrying, or bringing out a family, exercised a strong influence upon the development of rharacter in California. Even miners, in some in- .stances, would make their periodical migrations, spend- ing a season, as they called it, in the mines, and then a period of rest and pleasure at home. Tom suddenly from the dail}^ monotonous struggle, confined for twenty or thirty consecutive days witliin the narrow limits of a steamship, there was nothing to be done but to sit down and think, or read, or talk; and this meditation, or series of meditations, changed the whole course of many a life. Thouglits and aspirations then arose, which, but for this isolation from business, never would have been conceived; looking out upon the sea, time and eternity seemed to meet on the distant horizon, the windows of the soul were opened, and God and nature admitted to a closer communion; the ideal of manhood was elevated, a taste for travel and improvement was engendered, fancy was set free, the mind broadened, and the whole nature of the man enlarged under these beneficent influences. ijiii W 278 SAN FRANCISCO. Letters from home 1 blessed be letters I Though they come travel-stained from a voyage of seven thousand miles, across two oceans and a continent, they are as fresh with old associations, as fragrant with sweet reminiscences as if penned but yesterday. How like angels' visits they come at steamer intervals, and what a spell their presence casts, freighted as they are with love and kind greetings. Many a time have I sat at my table, far into the night, opening one after another from a pile of business correspondence before me, having first selected and placed unopened on one side, yet not so far away but that my hungry eye could rest on them, all that breathed of tender memories and pure affection, resolutely holding them there, the best for the last. There they lay filling the room as with a spiritual attendance, throwing their magic influence into every fibre of my being, and dimming with moisture the eyes that would not cease to look on them. Then with what tremulously sweet and bitter emotions T would take them up and break- ing the seals, let into my fluttering heart the soothing stream oi mellow memories, drank once more from the fountains of my youth, and bathed my weary soul in the sacred atmosphere of home. Sweet silent messages, whose witching presence can so wean our sordid vision from the seducing mirage of glittering dustl An impecunious discouraged young man digging at Columbia, who had found his friends at home de- linquent in writing to him, determined to bring a re- sponse if it lay in the power of ink and goose-quill. Accordingly he seated himself and wrote three or four old gossips asking the price of land, and stock, what advantageous investments offered, what a fine farm of two or three hundred acres could be purchased for — since which time during his stay in California there was not a mail but brought him letters. The new post-office building, now in the autumn of 1852 fronting on the plaza, and extending from Clay toC affai was stree edito Tlie the \ tlie SI Prob a vari ploy E iVenc there contin cific. the Sa steanie sent a\ twice a thousai to disaj The I find 1851. hi San which . obJitora covering remain tide of ii The Olc among the Apol — have c warehous land-mar] stairs, at Wliarf. along the 11 1 t OLD LAND MARKa was an entnmce at CtheJ.V^A^^""^*^"- T"'«'-e ^1^1 to street. Tl,e Fren"),^ thl " P"'^«'"^ f""" editors eaci. had a part asSed ev!.I*°"";"' *'"' «'« the building, but thlvrnTtl^," "''i?'" '™Sth of Oie stea«,ers led into and far T !^ ,"■; ^''^ ''™val of Probably never a Dost ,7ffi„ "^ *?'' ''""'n the street variety of langua.^sl^^f.T"?^ '^"^"^ i" "ue ploy a Chinan,a°n, af J'elerks w, ""' """'*^'7 to en, l;>ench, German; Spantj, a„??t"!'''"''^«' ^"^i"". there were letters fion. Sw,^"^/v """• ^<i<^ «hich cont,„e,,tsofAsiaandAfr"ra^^!^'"^r'/«la»d.the "ftc The average nuiulx^r ofll '/'""dsof the Pa- theSan Pranci^o posUffi^e ^n [b "''".'■T'^«'"'y steamer, was sixty tliousand „ ?.?** *"'™' "f eaeh sent away by ea^hst^al^t' "ft *':t''^"'^Se number twice a month ten thouZd n! ^ *'>""»a'«l-leaving '.San .tsrtr- ^-^^^^wSs whieh have so frequenU ' Ct^ "**>'• The fires "WitcTated many, ajid Z math If' """ "'^ ''^ve eovenng the rest, so thatin a^?,„f •""P^^n'ent '« remam to show how San vt ■ '""*' ""thing will "«°f {""nigration SmZZn^Tol f*'^^,''''^" the The Old Adobe, the Citvwl iT "^" ■>«■■ chores, among the things that wif 'h il " H ^t?-"'™' «'« the Apollo— evidences of *t . " *''® Niantir and -have disappeared :nd^^t^"'7rise of a later da e warehouses built ok solid e„wi ^'A'^"" ^^"'^ la>ge land-mark, is now abou bei„f re °"^°^ '""^ '"^t stairs at .,hat used to bTTlfe '^'"°^e'^_the boat- Wharf The steam paddv h^ d "''Ti'y "^ Long along the old wharf Une and ,b» ''7''^ '*' »»'! «" ' *"" *''e stws are rapidly 280 SAN FRANCISCO. siglit. covered. Another week will put them out of It is melancholy to see these old, well-known relics di8appearin<; from our midst. How many a hopeful man has landed on those stairs, whose bones lie bleaching on the plains or in the ravinos of the hi- hospitable Sierra I How many a sanguine youth, the joy and hope of a loving family, lias bounded up then, buoyant with hopes never destined to be realized I Great hearts have passed those steps ; honest hearts, biy: with determination to win a fortune in this j;oldcn land, not for themselves, but for those whom they loved better than life. Alas 1 many such are broken with grief ere this. " We well remember the scenes which used to bo enacted on those steps in olden times, at the arrival of the monthly steamer. The crowd of emigrants gazing in astonishment at everything they saw ; the few females who did arrive shrinking in terror from the red-shirted men, bearded like pards, whom they saw around them; the eager and heated boatuien, pushing, tugging, and swearing, in order to get first to the steps; the news-venders, with their dollar Heralds and Tribunes! Ah I those were fine old times, after all. " But think of the treasure which has gone down those steps 1 The millions and millions of dollars, when the -steamers were about to leave I Rough, plain, and unfurnished as they were, none have ever borne one half the treasure which has passed down them unnoticed. They have been the funnel through which all the gold of California has been poured upon the world. "A fairer morning never rose on earth. The clear blue sky hung above, and the pure atmosphere, through which the mountains twenty miles away could be traced to their every furrow, enveloped the city when she arrived, a girl of eighteen summers, as beautiful as the day itself, clad in her bridal robes. She and passi <'ouI( But brigj trod Was c clinia ing r( againj those JJourec not; t led wi< in his so tenc and of he hac happy i ho kne he kne could TJie col more, a tlarknes showed stairs w "Let They ha tlie wor] tliO Hone, one. Pi The streets, d state. ]y ^ay on gol c V THE LONG WHAIIF BOAT STEPS. M She had been married that morning on the stisanier, and buoyant with life, and hope, and gladness, slie passed up those steps, followed by a train in which could be seen all the i)C'auty and talent of the city. But those heartless old stairs never looked a whit the brighter for all the beauty and all the worth that trod them. "Again: the rain came down in torrents; the night was of that pitchy darkness which is only known in climates such as this. The wind in gusts came slash- in«_j round the corners, drivini; the torrent like waves against the houses, when a man came crawling down those steps. He sat there for an hour. The rain poured down on his uncovered head, but he heeded it not; the wind tore open his ragged clothes, and wrest- led with him, but he felt it not. With his face buried in his hands-, he thought of the mother he had loved so tenderly, and the sister whom he had cherished; and of her, dearer far than either, to win whose hand he had first ventured to these shores. Were they happy ? Were they even alive ? He knew not, but he knew that he wanted bread, and had it not ; and lie knew that though those at home were poor, he could not reach them to rescue or suffer with them. The cold wind and the roaring rain beat on an hour more, and his seat was vacant 1 He had rushed into darkness, and the wave which closed over his head showed him no more pity than did those heartless old stairs which had witnessed the struggle of his soul! " Let them go I Cover them up — pile on the sand ! They have had too much to do with the misery of the world to be worth saving. What good has all the gold done which passed down them? Perhaps none. How many has it made happy ? Perhaps not one. Pile on the sandl" The winter of 1849-50 was very rainy, and the streets, devoid even of sidewalks, were in a horrible state. Mud and filth from six inches to six feet deep lay on all the principal thoroughfares, which one SAN FRANCISCO. might wado or swim according to depth and consist- ence. But by the winter following some of the more central streets wore planked, and remembering their former abasement horses and drivers became frisky as the animals' feet clattered upon the firm thoroughfare, and there were loud complaints against street-racing. Not only equestrians dashed their horses up and down the o'owded streets at unlawful speed, but the buggieii, carriages, and even carts drove ott* at furious rates. It was a difficult country for either animals or men to keep quiet in. Very different was the aspect presented V)y Califor- nia street in 1853 from that of 1873 after the banks, in- surance buildings, and Merchant's Exchange had been erected. At the former date the planked street was perforated with holes of various sizes and doptlis, some of dimensions sufficient to swallow a horse and cart, others aspiring to nothing larger than a man's leg. The occupants of the street, however, did not seem to take the matter nmch to heart. Many of the apertures were fenced in or covered and labelled. Over one was drawn a large picture, a caricature of the vicinity, representing the street with the surround- ing buildings, and a horse and dray just disappearing through one of the openings, while another quietly stands by looking on. On the boards which ^ larded the way were placards and divers inscriptions, such as, "Head of navigation; no bottom." "Horse and dray lost; look out for the soundings." "Storaoo wanted; inquire below." "Squatters attention I 1)\- ver's ranch." " Office to let in the basement; Wil- liam Diver, agent." "Good fishing for teal," and others of like import. The winter of 1849 bore hard upon both merchants and gold-diggers. The season was very wet; the people were unfamiliar with the climate, and not well provided with shelter or clothing. There was the half-starved miner in his board house or cabin, the merchant shivering in his tent. loWoi nienr, •'arrjO( large of Lo l»retex to bet the du ]>resen some Women withou too pro an act ( strange] ^vritten l>rance. Stran l>lood an gonerati( l)ulJ-figh graced tl daughter ("ros Wen knights \ 'nounted the most wlien the tu'ne, ass most ao-iJe thrust of infuriated oass of tl adherents there was ] usually pro the ancient BULL B'lOHT. Inuring the winter of igrw o x, l^-r portion of the vaJIey o7r„ w' "■ '""'^ ^^ ^''« "'^''>,'tHl, wore driven into fl/ .V:''^'^o'''"a. then sub- ^^•'•^'' destitute; olher" ha^ ' ''r"'', ^^»«* ^^ them ;>^n.od gold-dust: men unao.n^ ^'"^i ^^^ ^^' J'an " ^^^rge cities foil victhn« ""^f ustomed to the ways f ;>^ Long Wharf^th/^it :: f^'^'^V^f^-nd s^rkj pretext into a low don and f '"^^^?^^d under some ;> bet on some surHl^.^ wi^ .r^'"^' ^ "^''"-d tJ»e dust changing Lands V i'"" "'"^^ ^^^u^t of presented in San iVancisco of T^ ^Pecta^-le was thJ -";o women actuanrtarv'rl ^^7'^^^ '»^" «^'J women tenderly reared hT l^-. ^^'^^^J m^H and too nroud to If»f +i. • *^''rK, without frieiuJa. „« i «t™,gen, as ^ell rSd, "*^ ""' *•>«" done K written „f a surety i„ the r""^''^'^-"' ''"■"• ''"* l.mnce. ^ '° »*« au^,. s book of ren.e.n- .-negations after thd'dS , ""xhe t'"' ^'^'"^ "" imll-fiijht was an iniDo-im, -Ine tune was wl,™ a Kiaced the arena andTh^ spectacle; when ro '2. "•?« were powerful a„d^et?J, '^"^"j"^; *''™ the liiiights with all the m.!f J ' ^^^ P'<^«dwes, clad likp 'pnted on metttZr^2""' f ''''™''-/ and t e most dashing hor^menT"'^, /'<"'*. were .en the Ja«<i^/i^,;?^'J,^"te world could find; tume, assisted by the 1.., ''^^* e'ese-fittin.r cos ■"o^t agile of foolfi' btet t'n l^^T" *■"« •l'''^'<est a^d thmst of his keen fwo^' f ,*''« """«'*'• with one ™?f ef this pastime wlsTal i'^ ^''""."d. The car? adherents aft^r the adZ,t'f1l,°'"lr''"y by its «"«-entc.tom5Tr;Xpp7bte:s 284 SAN FRANCISCO starvation and exhaustion, with tirped horns and ter- rified expression, was goaded into the arena, while brutal-looking tawdrily-attired horsemen on raw-boned Rosinantes, attended by ragged banderillos and chulos pricked courage with their steel weapons into the poor beast — which had all the sympathy of every human witness — and then clumsily butchered it. Perambulating the streets of San Francisco on the 23d of May, 1850, was a tall, raw boned man, in blat k skin and black clothes. His wooly head was sur- mounted by a white beaver with a broad blue band, and in his hand he carried a bell which served to fill breathing spact s with its parenthetical ringings. His demeanor was as grave as Mark Antony's when ho mourned over Caesar's body; his voice was as ridi, his gesticulation as efi'ective, though his harangue was not untinctured with a vein of burlesque. A dramatic black man, in black clothes, with a white hat bi)und with blue, and carrying a boll; and these were his words : — " Look a-here, white folks, T'se a- gwine to gib you all fair notice dat de bull- fight what is a-gwine to be dis arternoon, ain't a-gwine to be till to-morrow at de same time, 'coz dev can't come it. Ting-a-ling-a-ling. 'Coz dey ain't got de bull by de horns. He ain't come to town yet, but is comin' fas' ever dey can fetch him along. So de bull-fight is a- gwine to come off to-morrow arternoon. Ting-a-ling- a-ling. An' arter dat a chicken fight. It's truth I ni a-tellin', gem'men. The bull what's agwhie to fight 's one of de bulls what you read about. He's done been and killed nine men already, but he says he can't kill de tenf 'coz how he's too much for him. He's eiglit feet, am dis bull, an' jus' about sixteen feet long ef lie knows hisself. His horns am done been jus' about six feet 'tween de tips, and de hair on his back am been grown up to de sky, an' de crows hab done gone an' made nests into it. An' I'm obliged "t/O tell you dat de bull-fight is obliged to be postponded till to- morrow arternoon, when you mus' all come an' see PROMENADE STREETS. dig splendid bull, sartjn shore ; an' de chicken fight what's a-gwine to take place arter de bull-fight which am a-gwine to take place 'fore de chicken fight. Bof of 'em togeder has been obliged to be postponded till de next day, which am to-morrow artemoon in case it should be a fair day an' not rain." The plank road to the Mission was the boulevard of 1852-3, the first established public drive and public promenade in San Francisco. Winding among the sand-hills from Mission or Howard streets, the road tlien boasted its four-horse omnibus line and its two toll gates. On every pleasant day, from morning till iiivrht, it was thronjied with men of fashion and women of pleasure, idlers, loafers, gamblers, babies with their mannnas or nurses, making their several displays in their vehicles of divers descriptions, each after the bent of his own wise or foolish fancy. Along the road were vegetable and flower gardens, and some little white cottages were soon seen liere and there nestl in jj anions': the sand-hills. Here San Francisco took the air; her^ was the resort at that time of San Francisco s best society. Another great promenade of the city about this time, or a little later, was Stockton street from Wash- ington street to Washington square. It was then hut partially graded and planked, but on it were tlu handsome private residences and the principal churches. West of this the streets were for the most part in a state of nature, though many pretty cottages and some fine larger houses dotted the hillside. Dupont street, with its salt)ons and small shops, wasathronged and busy place. At night the gambling shops and stores were brilliantly lighted, and in the different sa- loons were women in great variety, Spanish, English, (Jerman, French, Kanaka, and Chinese. Durin*' the tlay it was the chief thoroughfare between the busi- ness portion of the town and the residences in the direction of North Beach. The custom house, city SAN FRANCISCO. hall, post-office, the more gorgeous saloons, with cigar shops, fancy stores, and livery stables, were on Kearny street, the street of loafers, litigants, lawyers, officials, politicians, the idle and the employed, and also the street of fast riding, which in those days was more common than now, Montgo'^^ery street from the be- ginning was the Wall street of San Francisco, the street of bankers, brokers, gold-dust buyers, jewellers, book-stores, and newspaper offices, with a free sprink- ling of restaurants and drinking saloons. Below Mont- gomery street, on land reclaimed from the bay, were the large warehouses, wholesale stores, and auction houses. On Sansome street was the American thea- tre and several hotels. On Battery and Front streets were many brick buildings well stocked with goods. Davis street, built wholly on piles and the last opened, was the resort of seafaring men, and the shops mostly contained ships' supplies. To these and the intersect- ing streets from Jackson to California, with the ex- ceptions of the Clark point and iron manufactories of Happy valley, the business of San Francisco was chiefly confined — a small area, truly, when we consider the astonishing amount of traffic carried on withui these limits. Wo is me for I am in trouble 1 was the one \oncr contiimous wail of San Francisco from birth till past babyhood. Born of disorder, corruption rankled in its blood. Colic and physic were its alternate comiwii- ions during infancy, and ofthnes the remedy was ten- fold worse than the disease. Wealth untold was its heritage, but all of it was given, before she numbend six 3'ears as a city, for an enorm<ius debt. This was lur first trouble, vast property in her pueblo lands, and ravenous wolves to lap it up. Water in front and drifting sand-hills behhid, the equalizhig or gradinu' of which was a trouble. Fires were a trouble, and streets, and debt ; the hounds of '5 1 and the ballot-bt )X stuflers of '56 were troubles. Yet withal the child grew and waxed fat. HONEST HARRY MEIGGS. 287 Like a thunder-clap dropped on San Francisco the in- telliijence that Henrv MeiofffS had absconded. Honest Harry Meiggs 1 A defaulter, forger, swiiidlcr, impos- sible 1 A week ago he was the most popular man in California, his record was the cleanest, his reputation tlie most spotless. On Friday his failure for the sum of eight hundred thousand dollars was announced. On the Tuesday previous he had bought the bark American, furni.shed and provisioned her in princely style, and the same night sailed with his family for "ports in the Pacific." The journal of this, Sunday, morning, October 8, 1854, leads off with a long list of forged comptroller's warrants, together with others un- told, aggregating half a million or a million of dollars. John G. Meiggs, brother of honest Harry and newly elected comptroller, also sailed on the American for these veiled "ports in the Pacific." Why did he go away being likewise a popular and capable man and newly elected to office, unless it was that being cognizant of his brother's crimes he preferred flight to braving the disgrace ? Besides the spurious warrants, merchants soon found their forced notes in circuL^.tion, and these could easily be traced to their source. Honest Harrv nmst be the rojrue 1 Then a thousand Hngors pointed that way, bony, bloodless fingers, and plump, fat fingers, digits horny with hard labor, bc- lomjintj to washerwomen, and working; men, and the diamond digits of merchants, bankers, and frail fair Few escaped the fangs of Harr}', for he was ones. (lever, he was popular, and above all he was honest. So tliey, his victims, loved to call him Honest Harry ^NEeiirtifs. Now the connnunitv cursed him. Con- gregating upon the street corners, men told their losses and swore if they could catch hhn they would liang liim Even now in the opinion of Sweeny and Baugh the bark American is becalmed outside, only twenty miles southwestward off the heads, and Cap- tain Alden with the steamer Active, is going to sweep the coast for sixty miles in both directions. Now SAN FRANCISCO. Harry, quickly and vehemently say your prayers so that hell may hear, for if the north wind fails you, you lose your head and the South American govern- ments a great railway financier. Alas I the Active breaks down and the swindler escapes. A magnificent audacity characterized all the tran- sactions of thic the prince of California swindlers, or as his victims put it, he "played it in fine on 'em." Thirty-three thousand dollars of Wm Neeley Thompson and Go's forged notes were endorsed by Henry Meiggs two and a half months prior to his departure. Stock of the California Lumber Company, of which he was president, was forged to a large amount — some said half a million. It was his custom invariably to give his forged paper as collaterals to moneyed men who would lock them up and make no attempt to realize on them ; or he would deposit it in some bank, take a certificate to that etfect, and obtain the money on the certificate. In this way his guilt was kept secret u}) to the last moment. When the captain of the American was questioned why he was fitting up his boat so sumptuously and whither he was bound, h replied, that the vessel had been purchased by two wealthy gamblers, who in- tended a trip of pleasure and adventure on the Pa- cific, first to Puget Sound and then to Australia. In leaving the city with his family Meiggs took a car- riage and said he was going to San Mateo; but stop- ping at Mission Point on the bay, he embarked in a small boat for his vessel, which was lying in tlie stream. No sooner was he fairly on board than the bark was towed out to sea, and hoisting all sail was soon out of sight. Before leaving he wrote a letter to Goddefroy, Sillem & Co., informing them of his intended departure from the country never to return. Owing them a large amount he left a confession of judgment in their favor for two hundred thousand dollars, under which they immediately attached a large amount of property. This letter and confession YERBA BUENA CEMETERY. were not delivered until the day after his departure, and the attachment that followed was the first inti- mation the public had of his failure. That the arch criminal had confederates in the board of aldermen, of which he was shortly before a member, among the street contractors of whom he was special patron, and among those who aided his escape, there can be no doubt. That his scheme should so successfully have prospered in the face of so many chances against it, shows him to have been what his previous career in California and his subsequent manipulations of South American railway systems amply prove him, a matchless financier and manager. It was one of the most gigantic swindles successfully perpetrated tlie world has ever seen. What is stranger still the money which he carried away, united with his consummate skill, yielded him an im- mense fortune, and to this day he has never been brought to judgment. Having served an apprentice- ship in the politics of San Francisco, he felt qualified to manipulate governments on a grander scale ; and notwithstanding the blasted rejmtation which folK)wed ]iim, he acquired such an ascendency over the leading minds of Chile and Peru as to blind them to his fiiults, and build for himself a gigantic fortune and a workl- wide fame. As in all scoundrelism there was the utmost heart- lessness displayed in his frauds. Rich and poor alike lie plundered, and scrupled at nothing which should add to his ill-gotten gains. The exact amount car- ried away by him was never known — probably about six hundred thousand dollar ' Many victimized never mentioned it. His failure and forgeries left him de- linquent over two millions. The American was pro- visioned for a two years voyage, the bills for wine and tine stores amounting to over two thousand dollars. She was well armed, having on board four guns, two of them brass pieces, and was manned by a crew ready to do their master's bidding, so that if over- I. (AL. Int. I'oc. 19 290 SAN FRANCISCO. taken tlie fugitives undoubtedly would have made a desperate resistance. Yerba Butna cemetery could tell some strange tales if its dead could speak. Little dreamed the grave- diggers of those days that these dreary acres dotted with chaparral and sage-brush beneatli, with here and there diminutive oaks and stunted laurel whicli hid the timid hare, while the howling coyote prowled not far ofi*; that this uninviting wilderness should so soon be laid out in broad streets whose sides should be lined with beautiful residences, and that from tlu; very spot where were then deposited the tired bones of the argonauts should so soon arise the magnificent city hall of this young, giant metropolis. There was one solitary manzanita with blood-red stalk and ever-green leaves which looked as if it hatl strayed from some happy valley of the Coast Range, hidden from the rude blasts of ocean. It seemed out of place here, this bloody red and green shrub, midst the ghastly white of dead humanity. It was a sor- rowful looking place, harboring the remains of sor- rowful men. It was in February 1850 that the ayuntamienlo set aside there shifting sands for burial purposes. In 1857 an old fence enclosed the sacred ground, entrance to which was made through a dilapidated gate. The place was sadly neglected, the paths in places entirely obliterated, and the grove approached only by wad- ing ankle deep in sand. There in a dismal pit, twenty -five by eighty feet, lay the bones of 800 i)i()- neers, piled side by side, and one above another, .i strange medley, and whoso flitting ghosts could each tell its own strange story. Beside this mammoth sepulchre was the bone- bleaching ground of the Celestials, where the disin- terred bodies of dead Chinamen were whitened and dried by the bonfire made of theirown redwood coffins. When properly cured, these precious relics were car< - fully packed in strong boxes, and shipped to the angoi- vis he der bofi row ing- witJ grea \^ feet, bf»xe prevj town hft s other! ^vith 1 storiej tlie dc water visitor punts It sernbia JioineJe lionie f<eal of l^^ien W(| "1 our '>ad inf 'iioes, t Ix'arts, l^fonu I'l'ivate, '"■ woine ['}' strai Jnto i-ac} j"g the I "ut prom w HOME-BUILDINO. 291 visiting land of FohL Poor, indeed, and most unhappy , lie who hitherward from the Flowery Kingdom wan- dered, never to return. Unlucky shades of homeless bones ! And yet there are such lying here. Long rows of significantly shaped sand heaps mark the rest- ing-place of moneyless bones. Some have a board with characters scrawled on it for a tombstone, but the greater part of these graven are nameless. With lumber at eight hundred dollars a thousand foet, buildings and bunks were made of dry -goods boxes, or cloth, though finally boards and shingles prevailed. By and by they undertook to grade the town, infelicitous to all but street contractors, for this left some houses all cellar ; others were perched upon foggy cliff, inaccc^ssible except by scaling ladders; others looked as if their construction had been begun with the roof, and built from the top downward, lower stories being added as the dirt was taken away. At the door might sometimes be seen stationed a tub of water and a broom, with which before entering the visitor might wash off his big boots, into which his jiants were tucked. It was all for home — anything for a home. The semblance even was heaven after so long and barren liomelessness. It is hard to overrate the influence of home. If we made it, it is part of ourselves, with the seal of ourselves «et upon it. If we grew up in it, then we are part of it, and carry with us through life ill our reflections, carnage, and conduct its good or had influences. Tlie landscape gives exj)ression to our faces, the nmsic of the streams attunes t)ur cliildish hearts, our native air inspires our thoughts. Homes are more o])en than in other countries, less l»iivatc, but none the less sacred. There are few men or women so exclusive as not to be easily aj)proached l»\ strangers with any sort of credentials. Prying into each other's affairs, meddling, gossiping, discuss- ing the private relations t)f neighbors and friends, are nut prominent vices. Scandal served up with appe- ■' ! ; !i,3 SM SAN FRANCISCO. tizing minuteness in the morning paper does not mak breakfast the lesa palatable, and the exposure of pri- vate life in the public prints does not lessen the circu- lation of a journal. How many in all this bustling city could pray the prayer of Socrates, but would not rather write him down a ragged, bare-footed, old heathen, and an ass ? "O, beloved Pan, and all ye gods whose dwelling is in this place, grant me to be beautiful in soul, and all that I possess of outward things to be at peace witli them within. Teach me to think wisdom the only riches. And give me so much wealtii, and so much only, as a good and holy man could manage or enjoy," San Francisco climate, like the people, is exceed- ingly mixed, very good and ver^"^ bad ; treacherous, contradictory, and yet most reliable ; hot and cold, and yet neither hot nor cold; dry, yet always damp, raining, but not wet — clothing at one time on tlie street, lace shawl and furs, overcoat and duster, and one as appropriate as another. " Four seasons in one day; blarst such a c(»untryl" exclaimed a tragic Faust as he threw up his engagement and hurried out of town. Often in the kitchen there wore storms; as wlieu Alice, who was a good cook, and had a bit of temper withal, had her wages gradually reduced from $250 to $100 a month, flew into a rage, and marched lior- self off, saying she would not live in such a place. How different from all this is the picture of to-day ! Gradually from Yerba Buena cove the city of our father Saint Francis has spread out, first nortliwanl over the hills and into the valleys beyond, far away to the Golden Gate, then southward for miles, en- compassing the old Mission Dolores and far boyonrl, while westward and on the hill tops broad avciuus lined witli palaces and gardens invite the weary mom\ - makers to repose. Grand hotels, and mercantile aiul manufacturing establishments, stand along the busy THE CITY OP TODAY. 293 thoroughfares, while churches, cathedrals, and public buildings rise from the dense mass of lesser structures. Elegant equipages with their fair freight roll over the paved streets, and out through the park to the ocean beach ; while street rail-cars, with scores of miles of iron track reaching far out into every suburb, carry the less pretentious population to and from their homes. CHAPTER XII. SOCIETY. mens muUtiono recreabitur: slcut in cibis, quorum divenitate reficitur ■toinachuB, et pluribus minoro faatidio alitur. — Qumtilian. The California year of 1849; what was it? An exclamation point in the history of civilization ; a dasii In the annals of time. This twelve-month was not Si> much a year as an age, not so nmch an episode as an era. Heart throbs, they say, rather than time tell the age of man ; here then was a century of heart throhs; we could as well drop out of history a hundred of other years, as this one most notable year. Otlier years have been repeated, and will be many times; this one, never. Throughout the records of the race, from first to last, there will never be reproduced on this planet the California flush-times drama. It stands out hi the experiences of men unique and indi- vidual, each swift day of it equal to many another year. How vain, then, the attempt to portray this fleet- ing hour! Dreaming will not achieve it, nor romanc- ing; it is neither caricature,, nor burlesque, noi' extra vaijanza. These lead the mind further from th«^ truth. Neither will the bald facts, though plainly and fairly stated, give a perfect idea of the time ; there was present much besides plain facts; there were facts running riot, and the wildest fancy turned into facts — a pandemonium of romance and reality. There were here fifty thousand active and intelligent young work- ers, whose experiences fully written for that year (294) THK YKAR OF 1849. 2BS would fill fifty thousand volumes, each as large as tliis. And then the subject would not be fully pre- s(!nted, unions into each of these fifty thoustind vol- umes the breath of in8i)iration mij:fht place true and living soul ; for the winds of California worci redolent of soul, and every morning's sun kindled now fires of (•ner»ry that wont not out at night. The 1841) of California, of America, of the world I It was the pivot <m which the frame-work of human progress turned a fnish side to the sun, a side brooding mag- gots hitherto, but now a new and nobler race of mon. Since the days of Adam, wliose eyes were opened to behold himself by his maker, there noviT has been u mirror held up before man which so roHer'tod him in his true light, stripped of all the shams and vou- vcntionalities of staid societies. Leaving in thoir old homes evt^ry restraint, every influence that bound them to ancient forms and traditions, the latter-day argonauts entered the mines with name and identity sunk. They wore no longer their former solves; they wore born and baptized anew. IL'nco aroso a social organism at once complex and po(;uliar, wlu>se growth is at every turn a new development. In dross the people of California were as inde- ])('U(lent and original as in everything else. Free tiiought and free habits pervaded the wliole donuiin of society. Even those who dressed genteelly de- clined slavery to fashion. They claimed the privil(>ge of exercising taste in preference to bowing boforo French law. Ht;nce it was that the streets of San i^Vancisco presented every variety of style in tht^ss the world had seen for the last quarter t)f a century. An English writer speaks of "some forlorn indi- vidual exhibitiniir himself in a black coat and a stove- j>ipe hat, looking like a bird of evil omen among a flock of such gay plumage." But the ancient minor of early days prided liimsolf to the last in his rags and patches, in his torn hat and boots awry, and open- breasted woollen shirt with up-rolled sleeves, display- 1^ SOCIETY. ing the tawny hairy skin and swollen muscies — which was, indeed, but another species of foppery. This rejoicing in their rags was like Antisthenes, through the holes of whose clothes Socrates saw rank prido peering. In the cities, the several nationalities re- tained their peculiar style of dress, so that on the streets of San Francisco were to be seen the silver- buttoned trousers, leather leggings, and bright-colored serape of the Mexican, the shooting-coat dress of the Englishman, the corduroys of tlie Irishman, the black of the New Englander, and the Paris fashions of Frenchmen, New Yorkers, and southerners. Every one could wear what he pleased, and no costume, how- ever bizarre, appeared to attract nmch attention. Indeed, while there is so mucli in dress which speaks the character of the wearer, during this most hnport- ant and solemn struggle there were other things to absorb the mind. For here for a time the battle of good and evil rages fiercely, and before it is fairly over, as, indeed, it never is, many will find themselves weather-bound, destined never to gather the fruits of their toil, destined never to leave these accursed shores, but forced by fate to toil on to the end, till death relieves them. Like the dart of Abaris, their new vocation renders their past invisible, wliile their future henccfortli is destined to be filled with tliose accidental colors which depend on tlie state of the eye rather than on the hue of the object. It will be a paradise or a penitentiary^ as success or failure is en- countered. Giving thus all for gold, they are like zealous missionaries giving all for Christ, many of them dropping or losing their names, so that their most intimate companions shall ot know them. The Connecticut Sunday h. forbade travel and work except in cases of necesi y or mercy, and in early times there were few such ct 9s. Massachusetts laid a penalty of ten dollars on eve ' one who travelled on Sunday, except from necessit or charity. The laws of Vermont permitted the aaple sugar makers THE CAUFOKNIA SUNDAY. HT to set tubs anew on Sunday in case of an extraordinary run of sap. In California there was much necessity, much mercy, and sap was always running. Sunday, if possible, was chosen for public affairs, for arrests, trials, and executions, as there would be deuionstratcd greater public interest on that day. The maxim. Dies Dominicus non juridicus, had little weight with them. So far as mining-town morality was concerned, Sunday was a day for anything but work. Recreations of any kind were admissible, and shirt- washing, broad-making, gambling, drinking, horse-racing, fighting, and hanging, all came under this category. There was here a complete return to primitive ideas regarding Sunday. Like Christmas, the ounday of the pioneer Christians was a day of rejoicing. In Ttrtullian's time, the word Sabbatum marked the seventh, not the first, day of the week, and to fast on that day was deemed sinful. Indeed, if we may be- lieve Justin Martyr, there were Christians who, like our miners, considered it criminal to keep the sabbath. During this epoch of abnormities, when a chaos of heterogeneous elements was under fermentation which brought to the surface the best and the basest quall- ti(^s of human nature, maiiy untried experiments must be wrought, many problems solved which never before had come within the range of social ethics. Tliere nmst be a re-adaptation of individuals and com- nmnities to new environments. Strange remedies nmst be applied for strange evils ; new resources must l»e developed, new benefits seized and utilized. The epoch stands out on the canvas of history in ever deepening colors; and only in ages to come, when tlie knowledge of human actions and divine laws sliall be brought into nearer relationship, si. all its true im- port be understood. It was an original melodrama, liorn of the time; but under Thalia s laughing mask were hidden the club and steel of tragedy. The world liad had its romance of religion, of chivalry, of the I 1 § «;• SOCIETY. ideal ; but here was its first great romance of utilitar- ianism. This was no island of ^gina to be peopled by transforming ants into men ; but here men were to be made monarchs ; mind was to be emancipated, and thought left to its unfoldings, such as never had yet been done under the sun. Here, martyrs and heroes, unsainted and unsung, amidst strugglings and suffer- ings, were to achieve glorious things for the race. Digging in the dirt, selling rum, tobacco, flour, and bacon, hammering out mining machinery, assaying gold and the like, seem dull and prosaic occupations enough when compared with the tilts and tournaments of knight-orrantry, the pious entliusiasm of crusaders, and the thrilling deeds on the battle-fields ; neverthe- less the poetry and romance are here for all who pre- fer reality to fantasy. Here, weather-beaten and bearded diggers are uneart ]ig primeval treasures which shall revolutionize commerce and society ; they are bringing to light brilliant gold wherewith to buy liappiness ; and these mitiisteriug towns and cities which spring up on every side as if by magic, an; tlu; marts of theh* servitors who feed and clothe their occupants. Golil-getting, however, is not an end but a means; it is only an incentive or impulse in tli(! great plan of))rogress. The romance of it is found in the strange developments, the wonderful events, the grand display of that force which brings order out of chaos, and places under subjection to the whole, tempers op- pugnant and ajiparently ungovernable, with the least personal restraint possible. By the prudish and pharisai^al this anomalous lif(i and society may be regarded with abhorrence ; bythi; social philosopher and lover of the race, it will bo studied as one of the most interesting and instructive; pages of history. In older societies impurities sink to the bottom or gather in slimy corners; but when tl!<; stream of progress, in an ungovernable torrent, forced a new channel westward, filth and purity were stirnn! up together, and its waters became thick with passion HOPE AND DESPAIR. 299 and prejudice ; hence never before have we had such an opportunity of watching the phenomena of separation and purification as here presents itself Neither Brit- ish Columbia nor Australia at all compare with Cali- fornia in this respect, for here, from the beginning, there was always the wildest latitude allowed to hu- man action, consistent with self-preservation, while in the British colonies gold-seekers, from the first, were under an established rule. In California, the only government and the only recognition of crime was such as grew out of necessity. There was never any parental restraint or guidance, there was no period of formation or childhood ; from a scattered assemblage of diversified tongues and (!olors* the population at once assumed state preroga- tives; and being ill-understood by any not on the spot, and far removed from eastern influence, the peo- })le were left to do very much as they pleased. On arriving in California, the new-comer soon found liimself enlisted in the ranks of one of two classes, the liopeful or the despondent. If of the former, he was soon seized with the intoxication of his new surround- ings, and joined the business orgie. Confident and daring, he at once went to work at something, — any- thing, whatever first oftered itself, and continued in (incrgctic industry until success in a greater or less degree was achieved. Often he would fall, and as often rise again. There was no such tiling as "«>n'ain- in<jj down, no thougfht of vicldino-. His ojrasp on for- tunc was firm and constant, and although the slippery jado might sometimes twist herself almost from his grasp, he never would entircdy lose his hold, for this oiico lost, all v/as lost. This doo'H'od determination, liopu in the future, belief in the times, and confidetice in himself were a fortune. Should he join the ranks of the latter class, he was forced to abandon all his bright hopes, and turn himself over to despair. Every thing he saw was dark and gloomy. A man of con- science in society and business, the glorious drunken- 300 SOCIETY. ness of the times was denied him. The rains of winter dampened his anticipations and drowned his energies; the cold, coast winds cut into his vitals, and the hot, summer sun of the valleys withered his hopes, and left him despondent and nerveless. With heart sunk within him, every blow he struck was echoed by his rattling bones Disgusted with himself and all the world, and heaping curses on the country, he returned home, if he could get there, covered with shame, or eked out a broken-hearted existence in the land he so heartily hated. The very qualities most conducive to prosperity in older communities were to some extent out of place here; men thrived on what elsewhere would prove their destruction. Old maxims were as useless as broken crockery. True, among the shrewder spirits there was a method in their madness, and sometimes seemingly rash and headlong speculation was the re- sult of well-laid schemes. There were times when a general advance in prices rose into a mania, and then whatever a man bought, real estate or merchandise, was sure to yield him a profit a week, or a day, or an liour afterward. All this seemed to one newly arrived a bedlam of insane speculation, and speedy convulsion was predicted. At first there were no fixed customs in the country to which every comer must in a gieater or less degree adapt himself Every man's conduct was regulated b}'^ his own tastes rather than bv preiistablished rules of society. Fashion never found more indifferent vo- taries. But the romance and irksomeness of this kind of life gradually wore away; woman came to the res- cue, and the proprieties, suavity of manners, and staid customs of older societies came into general observ- ance. Society separated into strata; something like caste appeared, and the components of the community became more and more individualized. Most of those who came hither were in the matur- ity of manhood, with more or less skill and experience EFFECT OP ENVIRONMENT. 801 in their several vocations. This skill and experience, by means of which society is influenced, were acquin.'d under different systems of education and discipline ; and in the adaptation of these experiences, one to an- other, and all to a general whole, theory and specula- tion were in a measure thrown aside, and men became eminently practical. All must discard somethinjj;- of that just pride for the ancient and local customs of their fathers under which their progress had been at- tained thus far. This it was difficult at once to do. The way in which we are accustomed tt> do a thing we cannot but feel to be the best way, and we see no reason why we should throw it aside for an- other which will bring about results less easily. Nor need we, except in some instaices, when we nmst per- force adapt ourselves to general customs. And by this discarding of habits formed on a framework of technical philosophy alone, and seizing upon actuali- ties as they exist, i. respective of their origin, the ijrrandest results are attained. Until a late day we lacked home and the home feel- ing in California, We began by staying here a little while, and we have remained longer than we intended. We lack the associations running back for generations, the old homestead, the grandfather, and grandmother-, juid uncles, and aunts, and cousins. There is nothing around us hallowed by an indistinct past. There is nothing older than ourselves ; all that we see has grown up under our eyes, and for these creatures of our own creation we have no reverence. We are not }'ct settled, we are constantly moving to and fro like restless spirits, living in hotels and boarding houses ; or if we have a home we want to s(?ll it and go into (he country, or to Europe. It is so n)uch troulik; keeping house, with these Chinamen for chamher- niaids I The average intelligence of any nation in Christen- dom, not even excepting the great American peophs is greatly overrated ; particularly when it comes to m 808 SOCIETY. mankind acting in the mass, cooperatively, as a sect, order, or legislative body. The noise and bustle of some excite others; as an old broken down cart- horse, driven into a band of wild, frolicsome horses, becomes fractious and unmanageable. Business breeds business, and caution engenders caution. He who croaks and hoards, lying in wait for opportunities to get sonietliing for nothing, incites others to croak and hoard and lie in wait; and so stagnation follows. A man who cheerfully, and with hope in his heart, goes to work, develops the resources of his country, buys and sells and builds, will incite like activity in others, and development and property must follow. Deliberation and caution are well enough in their place, and not to be overlooked at any time, but a good driver does not put on the brakes going up hill. It is true that the people of California are very greatly absorbed in making money. And tliis is as it should be, for what is money-making but develop- ment and jirogress ? Culture and refinement always follow material prosperity, they never precede it. We have here lands to be put under contribution, mines to be opened, railroads and cities to be built; would it be accounted to us as wise to sit down to [)lay when we have made no provision for our dinner? First provide for the material man, else the mental will fare poorly enough. But, say our friends at the east, " You have made money enough ; it is time you should turn your attention to somethint; better than money, if ever you intend doing so." Very true, but railway trahis are not stopped at full speed ; cart horses do not usually make the best racers, and ships built for the water do not sail well in the air. Money-makers are simply macliines, as are philoso- phors and scholars ; take one to pierces and remodel it, and the working of it afterward is very doubtful. I see no other way but to give the country time. The nc^xt generation will beget new inventions, ex- periences thus brought together propagate. Henco MATERIAL FOR PROGRESS. 303 it is that we are more fully up to the times in every- thing, much more, all things put together, than al- most any other community. It is easy to undorstand how men and women thus thrown together, strangers to each other, strangers in ideas, speed i, and traditions, without the substra- tum, as a social foundation, which only can coalesce; as society slowly develops, fail to have that interest in each other and that intense loyalty which charac- terizes older and more settled comnmnities. Society ]i(!re is a malformation, or rather it is yet not society, but only materials for society; yet nowhere will th(! people quicker or more heartily unite for the public; good; nowhere are they more free and social than here; nowhere is there less clap-trap and ridiculous apings of things traditional than here. Strangers coming together cannot immediately em- brace and become brothers. They have too little in common, see too many faults in each other; will not mellow on the instant asperities of character. The seeds of lasting friendship are usually planted in early life, and matured in a soil of warm and tender sympathy, in order to produce a plant which will endure the storms of selfishness that beat upon it in after life. Once the social heart of California lay so imbedded in gold that it could not throb. The passions were let loose, and a moral leprosy infected the i)eople like an epi- demic. But all this passed away, as every epidemic passes, afttu- having weeded society of some of its weaknesses, and left it in fair condition for pcrniam nt growth. To the great majority of the pioneers the Sierrn. ■was a sphinx propounduig a riddlo, which they must, answer. Thousands laid down tlioir lives in the at- tempt, for there were the lion's claws to tear the un- successful venturer in pieces. Of rare celestial beauty was the face and bosom of the goddess as she lured men to their destruction ; of dark ferocity was she as she lapped them to their final doom. Sri mm 304 SOCIETY. Very hard were the times in the mountains now and then ; times when no one could pay his butcher bill, when the miner had not money enough to roll tenpins; yet, there was little complaining. The merchant considered it useless to sue for his account, for even if he could collect it, he knew he would incur enough of unpopularity to make the loss many times greater, and perhaps get a sound thrashing some night when the boys were deep in their cups and with plenty of money. Society at this time was far too unselfish for its own good, or for the good of the world. An aristocracy, in tlie common acceptation of the term, never has found place in Califiirnia. Vain and silly women have attempted cliques, have drawn round themselves lines of exclusiveness, and essayed tlio leadership of fashion; but all such efforts have had little mterest to any except the aspirants themselves, usually involving them in contempt and ridicule. Likewise there have not been wanting those, w1k», jealous of the pretensions of the ambitious in tliin direction, have by their envious scoffings betrayed a desire for the position which they pretended to despise. With no provincial court, with the officers of government not the most admirable characters in the community, with no fixed military or naval system, with agents of the general government too poorly paid to make much display, with but a small literary class, with the entire community in- tent chiefly on money-getting, and holding in con- tempt all forms save the forms of debit and credit, there was here not the first element on whicli to base an arist<icracy, either of iii^ney or niirul. Wealth was worshipped, and success, and that keen ness of intellect which could acquire wealth ; but the [)ossessor was as frequently despised, and his quondam washer- woman wife snubbed by her less pretentious Ri>^ters. Early society here was an aggregation of s; . angers in which lucky strokes of fortune dazzled INFLUENCE OF WOMAN. 305 t.) >rs ;crs ,val tt ><> a in- on- lUl. tlu' the eyes of competitors, and unostentatious merit passed unnoticed ; great men, if success can be called greatness, were too near their beginning to hispire that respect necessary to the formation of an aris- tocracy in social circles. There were here no old families whose merit, wealth, or respectability had long held their neighbors in esteem, though there were the beginnings of many such. Woman played her part in early California, annals, her influence being abnormal as much by reason of its absence as its presence. For the absence of women liad a strange effect upon the men, although they themselves were scarcely aware of it. Religion they could do well enough without, while dwelling for a time in this wilderness, but that their life should be limited to a community of men was indeed a new ex- perience. It was like a void in nature, something dropped out of their existence. After all, which condition was the harder: hcr's whose smile dissembled the sinking heart on parthig ; her's whose brave words belied the glistening, tear tliat hung trembling on the droopmg eyelid ; hers whost; lot it was, all through the cold winter with him away, to fight the hunger- wolf that prowled about the door, and keep her little ones from freezing, or his who abandons all for the hope of getting gold? Tliere is but one thing this side of heaven lovelier tlian the form and face of woman, and that is her heart-bloom. Fed by the veiled virtues, the poetic courtesies, the delicate influences and affections, witli all the tender sacrifices locked within, it fills the at- mosphere with its fragrance, redeems man from him- self, and makes a paradise of what were otherwise a l)arren waste. A thing in some form desired by all inoii, she whose heart beats true to the coming and ^t;oiTig of her friends; she whose brain was all ablaze with ten thousand tender fantasies ; she through whose eyes one sees her heaven-lit soul ; she whose deft Cal. Ixt. Foe. 20 w 1 m [:■■-! i V 306 SOCIETY. fingers are as dancing points of thought ; she whose feet upon the sward are lighter than the soft south wind ; she whose voice is angels' music singing whence she came ; she whose charms are crowned by goodness and sweet, gentle sympathy; such is gentle, virtuous woman. Spaniards who had wives in Spain were forbidden by King Ferdinand to reside in any of the colonics; they nmst go after them. There were no Kino- Ferdinands to make the men of California bring out their wives. At first wives were few, but houris in abundance came from the uttermost parts of the earth, whose beauty and virginity, like the black-eyed dam- sels of paradise, were, in the eyes of the soiled and solitary Californians, renewable at pleasure. Of these, as the Koran tells of the houris in paradise, each wo- man-worshipper, if he possessed sufficient gold-dust, might have seventy -two. So that for women, the mines became like Torquemada's fabulous Lizard is- lands, a retreat for outcast damsels of every species. In the cities, particularly, and sometimes in tlu' mines, there were not lacking Aspasias of the superior type, refined and cultivated women whom shmous cii - cumstances had driven from the ijarden of chastitv, and whose intellectual attractions were surpassed only by their j)ersonal charms. When, however, the younjj; men bey;an to think of makinij this countrv their home, the^y longed for home comforts and happiness, chief among which was a wife. Whereupon they, some of them, marry and are soon led to thank God for the blessing of no children. How often when death's tidinijs came of a loved one gone, father, mother, wife, or child, has the soli- tary mourner withdrawn from his boisterous compan- ions, retired to the woods or to the hill-side, and there held his lonely funeral. The hope of his life, perhaps, his morning and evening star, that for which he bad come hither, the main-spring and motive of all liis toil, suddenly destroyed. Oh 1 God, is it necessary WIVE.S AND OTHER WOMEN. 307 bvcd Isoli- Ipan- Kwiv luvl his ksary thus to torment ? Might not omnipotence have devised some scheme less cruel than that which nmst needs send up one universal wail from the beginning to the end of time, wailing births followed by wailing deaths, as though spirit and flesh had been united only to be torn asunder, as though sentient behigs had been created only for the anmsenient of fate i What is this ( »ne lesson nature teaches us ? Short, swift, and damna- l)le. Throughout the ages the stron*; shall eat up the ^veak, and death shall swallow ail. Foolish are we, to propagate our kind that they may be made the sport of the present, with the certainty of a final uhastly issue. Now the heathen for their gods do not have that love and respect. Love, or what was called love in Homeric heroes, in the minds of Augustan critics, and ill mediajval religious devotees was but a weakness. Among warriors, the tender sentiment implied cfRemi- iiacy, and too often piety pleaded the will of heaven as ;m excuse for treachery to woman. And what did thi' gods themselves know about love? Their love was all sensuality. Jupiter put Cupid in the stocks I »i cause the mischievous imp would not make the W(»inen love him for himself alone, but nmst first turn him into bull, satyr, swan, or other form before his |iitvsence should inspire the tender ])assion. They would call it hate, not love, that prompted the idea of itcinal l)urnin<»;. Thine are in every city other fifty wives besides the titty daughters of Danaus, king of Argos, who kill thi'ir husbands, if not in a single night, then in a time made yet more cruel by its prolonged length. Intolerant of restraint as the wild votaries of Bel- inda, or of Anubis, of Osiris, or of Cvbele, like the Koiiians of Juvenal's day, one connnon <{uality of reckless disregard of consequences pei^vaded the whim of the hour. Amorous widow-hunters of the Colonel Chartres or duke of Roussillon type, preeminent hi their superfluity of naughtiness, met with fair success. m 308 SOCIETY. 11 H •4 Dr Brewer in his Dictionary of Phrase and Fable, says that frequently he who went to dig gold in Cali- fornia, put to board in some neighbor's family his wife and children, or, as it was sometimes termed, turned them out to grass — hence grass-widow. This definition is far-fetched. Originally the term signified an unmarried mother; later, a wife separated from her husband. Just how far the absence of woman affected society it is difficult to determine. With her men are fools ; without her devils. Man may be made better or worse by woman according to her quality. As a modest maiden and a true and loving wife, slie is tiu; &,irest handiwork of the creator; us a splenoti*- moody demirep, she is the aptest instrument of t]i(! devil. As Dante, probably with his own tcrniaij:;aMt wife in view, groans "La fiera moglie piu ch'altro, mi nuoce." With the purity of hor heart she may makr all things pure; under the counterfeits of love slif may seduce by her charms, and doom to death by li< r affection. Within a limited sphere every woman lias a Pandora's box which she may open if she chooses. Physically weaker than man, morally woman is greatly his superior. She is his superior as well in the emotional part of her nature as in her finer seiisr of duty ; she is more self-sacrificing, has greater sen- sibility, is naturally more chaste, more tender, more compassionate, more forgivr.ig; she excels in all pas- sive virtues, but hi intellect, ethics, in courage, in tin' activities of life she falls behind her ruder companion. Women feel rather than think; they are governed by impulse rather than by opinion. In an evenly bal- anced community they are less tempted than men, and therefore less given to criminality; but once faiily embarked in excesses, and they outstrip the most vicious men. Tlie partner of man in his low cstati' as well as in his right living, woman cannot lift In i self much above the moral atmosphere which 1 e make-i for her. Hence it is that had it been possiljln ii'^ WIVES AND OTHER WOMEN. for women to have followed the gold-seekers of 1849, und to have endured the hardships of the California flush times, it is probable that as a whole, and to a cortain extent, they would have fallen into excesses tluiiisclvos, instead of withholdin*; their companions oiitirely from them. The patience, modesty, and gentleness of the better sort would have greatly as- sisted the sobriety and magnanimity of the men, but the frivolity and jealousy of the more graceless would liave increased their intompcirance and brutality. Mucli would have depended on the view taken o\' the question by the women; had they been there, and had they been as ready to sacrifice all for gold; had they been as ambitious, as avaricious, and as untram- cllcd by society as were the men; the intensity of the oriiies would have been increased ten-fold. Hai)ly she was never called to undergo tlie ordeal. Het'oie her appearance on tlie scent; the ebullition had iiiateiially subsided, and gold-diggers began to think seriously of becoming setth'rs, and of making this ( t»untry their home. Tlie first females to come — and these were early enougli u[)on the ground — were the vicious and uncliaste, wlio o])enetl and presided at hrilliant saloons and houses of ill-fame, and sat by the gambler and assisted him in raking in liis gains and paying his losses. Flaunting in their gay attiie they were civilly treated by the men, few of whom, ( veil of the most respectable and sedate, disdained to visit their houses. On the steamer.s coming out, the flail, fair one was often shown all tlie delicate consid- t rations due to the fine lady of innnaculate morals; the officers of the ship were always at her command, and if a favorite of the captain she was assigned a seat at his table. On her arrival, nu'rchants and Judges were among her associates. Tiiere was little social caste or moral quality in those days. In the ahsence of the true the imitation was made to answer. And so men went wild over the shadow as they were doing in other things; the folds of female drapery m 11 m 31' 810 SOCIETY. were worshipped, whether they held a woman or a skeleton. Later, families were brought out, virtui; and domestic honor gained the ascendancy, and inde- cency slunk away and hid itself. Then tlie maiden and spinster at the east were seized witii a desire ti> visit their aunt or sister and see California. Mu< li to their surprise, most of tlieni found Imshands shortly after their arrival, never dreaming of such a possibil- ity. Enterprising young men advertised for wives ; but the demand being so much greater than the sup- ply, this method was not the most successful. Fre- quently, however, through the medium of a c<)mm»»ii friend, likenesses of a very puny man in California and a sorrowing damsel at the east would be ex- changed, letters would follow, and then the wooir would send on the passage-money, and the blushing fair one liasten over the sea to her adorer. Old sweethearts often came out to their lovers, who nut and married them on the steamer deck. It needs nothing fui-ther to prove the influence of pure woman on those destined to receive hai>piness at her hand than to notice the behavior of one who is expecting a wife or sweetheart. Some timu before tlic steamer is due, the greasy hat ami checked sliirt itiv thrown aside, and whitewashed of his past, with clean linen and shaven chin, the happy expectant is suddenly seized with a desire to attend churcli. He manifests, perhaps, a deep interest in the Sunday-school, and wishes to become a teacher; he si'»hs over the desr. crations of tiie sabbath, and the moral depravity of tl r country. As the liour for the steamer to arrive drav >. near, he becomes nervous, business seems irksome, 1 c looks in the glass, pulls out a gray hair or two, bruslus his new clothes, and walks up to the t<ip of Telegrapli hill, and then around to the Mercliants' Exchange Finally the steamer is telegraphed ; he rushes down to the wharf, piously curses the general slowness of things, springs on board before the plank is put out, elbows his way through the crowd, finds her, and clasps W'lXKB AND OTHER WOMEN. •11 li>l her to his regenerate lieart Gatukt teiUam'mt rirtns! The men wore relatively superior to the women. As a ruUs the better class of men came to California, and a more ordinary class of women. The trip to this country was tedious, dis*j;ustin|ij to a sensitive, d«'licate woman; there was no society here, no liouscliold con venience. It was a very hard ]>lace for a wo.ii;i:;. The finer specimens of woman) lood could find hushiinds at home; there was no necessity for them to undi'r^o tlie h«>rror8 of a sea voj'aj^e to California, and its so- ciety afterward. Nevertheless, nmltitudes of nohic and true women did come; Imt it nmst he admitted that woman here in early times was not the intelli<;c'iit, refined, and sensible heinuf that is found in oldei- and more settled ctjmnmnities. In California ^ood lius- hands re!j;ularly once a we«'k rolled up their sleeves, and helped wife or dau<.;hter at the wash-tuh. To live in purity, woman must liave the sympathy of those around her; thousands in California have fallen simply from the fact that men had no faith in them. Othello j)layed before a Califoniian audience ill those days would have appealed to sentiments stran;j,e to the hearts of many of the hearers. Now and then shi})s from France and elsewhere W(>uld enter the })ort., with conjpanies of respectable nirls on board, who would be immediately caujjjht up i)y gamblers and saloon-keepers, to assi.st at tlie tables or dispense drinks, at two hundred and fifty dollars a month; but alas, within a week or two, des})ite the vigilance of the proprietor, they would be mated! Thus we see that there were true women and there were false women amontj those the ^old-seekca's left behind. California widows they were called, and they were to be found in every rural town, every hotel, Itoarding-house, and watering place. Faithful, modest wives and mothers some of them were, patiently waiting the end of this sudden and strange family dis- rui)tion. Round them were mouths to feed and no re- mittance came ; yet never doubting, the heart-en- ,r 812 SOCIETY. shrined image was crowned with fidelity and noble purpose. And thus, through years of anxious toil they held to oheir hopes, dreaming at night horrible dreains of staring gold-diggings up to their neck in glittering mud, their heads wreathed in rattlesnakes, gnawed by wolves, or cut off for foot-balls by the savages, all the while not knowing whether their hus- bands were alive or not. Their existence they knew to be a living death, yet they worked away, sewing for the tailor, making shirts, giving lessons to the neiijhbors' children, or even working out. Tliere wore others, however, who took a more freo and fanciful view of their situation, and determined to enjoy and make the best of it. These lived on the cliarity of their family or friends. It was unsafe to treat them with coldness or neglect, for any moment their Imsband miLilit return a millionaire. Younsj: and beautiful and abandoned 1 True, temporarily and for lier own benefit abandoned ; but wliy sliould lie think more of gold tlian of lier? Tlie first taste of wcullock was sweet; by it, however, the a[)})etite was only wlietted, not gratified. Former and unsuccess- ful lovers weit! now remembered and smiled ui)on, and flirtation was found a pleasing way to shorten tin; liours of a husband's absence. Some returned in tinu; to reclaim their wives from too free a course of dissi- [)ation ; otliers did not. Du Haillv refers to the Enolisli custom of sendinu' young wonu;n out to India to get married tliere, and says tliat tliis custom finds its counterpart in Califoi'- nia in a curious prospectus in whicli an American woman, Mrs Farnliam, offered to organize, on a lar-ge scale, a scheme for the emigration of women to San Francisco. Tlie highest respe'*tal>ility was required, and no emigrant was admitted under twenty-five years of age. A ship was chartered especially for their use, and each must have 1200 francs. Small as was the amount required, the enterprise was not a success ; but this did not hinder the Californian colonization agents WIVES AND OTHER WOMEN. 313 from continuing to solicit in their publications the fair sex to come. "What does it matter about money," they said, "that is the last consideration of a gentleman among us." "The young person who loves the world and its j)leasures," says one of them, " will find here [)artners ready to procure her every enjoy- ment ; while she who is inclined to domestic comfort will meet quiet and steady men whose doors will open to welcome her." Of the wrecked hopes of men in California many speak; of the wasted sympathy of woman, of her vain yearning for tlie promised tenderness, of her faith among the faitliless, her constancy after all affection liad been withdrawn from her, her deep sorrows and sufferin<js as tlie reward of a devoted life — none at all. What are the blows of battle to hnn who engages in the conflict in comparison to the helpless agony of an eye-witness? All thhigs will a man give for his life. Woman gives all for love; deny her this and she is dead indued. A catalogue of Californian infidelities, i»roken vows, brutal treatment, failure to provide on the part of him who took from a happy home a tender loving heart under promise of eternal love and pro- tection, would make one blush for the rjicc. Men 1 anie hitlier to rough it, and it did them no harm, hut added to tlieir manliness. For woman, a life in California in early times was [)robabl3' one of tlie most trying positions she could be called upt)n to endure, lier lov(^, her j)ride, her health, and stieiigth, lier honor and reliuion, all being brought under t\iQ crucial test. If she could drudge by day, and 'vithstand dis- comforts by night, and live under it, she could iiuiiiage to get ahmg; but with want and unkindness tills could not always be. Too often her weary life N\ as soulless duty, and death the only recompense ; anfl thus was her gentle spirit crushed and made ripe f' »r heaven. Content is godliness; but for a woman to have (outont, she must have something beside wealth ; her B i 1 (■ ;; 1 : 1 1 ,. , ft % 1 M ■i: 1 ill 314 SOCIETY. heart knows no alchemy that will turn it into gold. There is a limit beyond which mere mental culture and unaspiring industry, be they never so earnest and patient, cannot broaden or deepen the soul. There must be a little sentiment, a little feminine ambition, a little womanly excitement other than that which a purely money-making husband usually gives ; else the tender harmon}'^ of the heart is silenced, and the deli- cate flower witliers and droops. California was no place for a fastidious woman. She who could wash best, iron best, or cook best, was the most independ- ent, and the one to win fortune, and even happiness if her nature admitted it. Nevertheless, there were many whose hearts nothing but a golden key could unlock. It is not to be wondered at that intemperance in business and pleasure should result in social discord. Tliougli the Yankee element predominated, there was in society at the first, scarcely what could be called a recognized or recognizable nationality ; California was then but a geographical expression — Vox et praiteiea nihil. The guests of a large dinner or supper party were as varied in character and qualities of mind as amouL;- the rich men of Rome, who had acquired wealth l»y disreputable means in the days of Pliny, though tli San Francisco host did not carry the distinction s fiir as to serve up dift'erent qualities of food and win to the different guests as in Rome. 10 CHAPTER XIII. FURTHER ABNORMITIES. E come gli stomei ne portan I'al Nel fredclo tempo a shiera lartta rga e piena; Cosi quel fiato gli spirit! mali Di qud, ili Id, di giii, di sii gli mena : Nulla speranza gli conforta mai ; Non (ihe di posa, ma di minor punor. -Delt Inferno. In Luci; iiV l^ialogues of tho Dead, Charon com- pels all to Soiip before entering his boat; the rich man of his wealth, the M)in man of his foppery, the king of liis pride and kingship, the athlete of his flesh, the partrician of his noble birth and his honors, the phil- ( )Sopher of his disputatiousness, his rhetorical flourishes, his antitheses and parallelisms, and all his wordy trumpery. None may go to the regions of tlu^ dead even with a rag of clothes on. Now there are many in California who would like to take with them there all they liave, who are trem- blingly fearful oi dy hip: fv\ci leaving the wealth they love so much ; who cfttuu.t, bear the thought of i)arting with it even aftei d^ atb ; iswA so tliey leave it to be dis- sipated by lawyers unci oxueu.tors, instead of devoting it themselves to some ime il » id noble purpose. Many large estates have, in this way been scattered, which doubtless wrunix the souls ( f their former owners as they looked up, watchful and wistful, at the hapless flow of their dear ducats. After all, there is a not wholly unjust law of compensation applicable to savage and civilized, poor rnd rich, the past and the present; cen the most tori- "^vted in life may find relief in the ( 818) > I If M'' 816 FURTHER ABNORMITIES. sweets of death. Let him beware who takes to him- self more than his share of good, for upon him the gods will lay a corresponding quota of evil. To a gold-laden ass all doors open. But the wealth- winners of California were not asses, whatever may prove to be some of their descendants, who like an oyster have nmch mouth but no head. Their lives, it is true, were too much like the life of an ass, enticed to drag its load by tlie fodder held before it, and which sees nothing but the fodder. They worked for money as if they had a wolf in their stomachs. Some were made wealtliy by their avarice ; others were made ava- ricious by their wealth. There vere men among them of whom it might be said, as it / " Jeremy Taylor, "His very dust is gold"; there \> others of whom we are compelled to admit, *'Hite> very gold is dust." Wealtli does not accumulate in the liands of a com- munity by accident, nor by divhie inter[)ositi()n, neitlier docs literature, art, nor science. Because men will so and so is not a sufficient reason for their doings; all human actions aie the result of cause, and individ- uals will to act, or they act, because of that cause. It was the aj)pli('ati().i of the principles of political economy to social ])liilosopliy, though carried not quite so far as at the present time, that made the Wealth of Nutmis of Adam Smith so long the popular and powerful ex- [)onont of economic principles. j^]arly in the sixties there arose a race of bonanza kings with silver souls; silver were their friends, and silver were their enemies, for to be worthy their con- sideration at all, they nmst be of silver; silver was their meat and meditations; their doors were barred with silver, and silver paved their way to the final abode of souls. There was a whiskey demon and a silver demon, and these two demons fought; the silver denum caught the whiskey demon, but the whiskey demon gnawed out the vitals of the silver demon. Great is whiskey, and great is silver, but the greatest MORAL STANDARD OF THE TIMES. 317 of all is the bonanza king who gives his best friend points that direct liim the shortest road to ruin. Then spawned speculation, all kinds of gambling being in vogue in saintly circles and rabble congrega- tions — all except the honest old-time games, such as faro, monte, and poker. And there were established among the sand-hills society shops, where the undying reign of fashion set in; and politician shops, wliere fat offices were sold ; and peculation shops, where office-holders might turn an honest i)eiiny, and pay the purchase-money for their place. There were some good fellows among the latter-day rich men, but not many. They were generally of tlie Gripus order ; some hard drinkers nnong them, who when in their cups did not always treat witli distin- guished courtesy their guests ; who were well enough satisfied to let Lucullus suj) with Lucullus. Avarice gnawed at their vitals like the parasite in the stomach of a shark. Banks sprang up whose caterpillar was a steamboat or a grog-shop, and dignified dames sat in stately parlors whose grub was the laundry. These later overwhelmingly rich ones were quite difierent from the free-hearted and free-handed of the tlusli times, who, like Ali Baba, would not take the time to count their gold, but measured it. The enormous wealth of the former seemed rather to create a hunger for more money, with a gnawing appetite ever in- creased by what it fed on. Then perhaps they would grow covetous of fame and higher social standing, and so flit about, hither and thither, restless, and perhaps reckless, in search of something which, when found, only added to their unappeased desires. 5 Along the pathway of nations, savage and civilized, we see every community with its moral ideal which acts as an individual cohesive force holding society to- gether. It seems of less importance what the ideal is than that there should be one. Theft was the moral standard round which revolved all virtue in the mind s k If u 318 FURTHER ABNORMITIES, I of an Apache, while the Comanche would probably have placed murder first. In ancient Greece, far above female chastity was patriotism, while with us the relative importance of the two virtues is reversed. Spain's strongest social bond was loyalty, that and its ill-favored companion, religious bigotry. In the days of pious vigils, and self-crucifixions, humility was at a premium, while later boldness and bravery were the highest virtues. Now, although tlie chief object of every one pres- ent was money, wealth was not their highest admira- tion. Gold was plentiful. All started on an equality. If in the scramble some filled their pockets while others did not, the former were lucky, and that was all. All of them were still men, good me!i or bad men as they were before, and not one whit changed ; nor were they in the eyes of any there present special objects of adoration. Temperance, chastity, piety, none of these assuredly were the moral ideal of the time, neither was patriotism, asceticism, nor any of the soft amenities of life. What then was that paramount virtue worthy the devout admiration of tJiis august rabble? It was a (juality for which I find no single exact expression in any vocabulary. It was a new quality for worshipful jmrposes, and made uj) of several comnum qualities. Take from extravagance its love of display, from })rodigalitv the element which tends to the destruction of its possessor, and from munificence every appear- ance of charity, and we approacli the opposite of what is connnonly called meamiess, which was the exact opposite of the moral ideal of the time. Gen- orosity, open-handedness, large-heartedness, here was the ideal; and if it ran its ])ossessor upon tlie slioal.'; of bankruptcy, or into a drunkard's grave, it was lamentable, but no such black and accursed evil as parsimoniousness, stinginess, niggardliness, or in a word, meanness. There was nothing in the world so mean as meamiess. If a debtor was unfortunate and CLASSIC OATHS. m could not pay; all right, better luck next time. It' he was thoroughly competent and honest lie could ob- tain credit anywhere, twice as much as before. But if he was a mean man, if he had resorted to any trick, or subterfuge, or had attempted to cover any cunning; or if he was low in liis ideas, grovelling in liis tastes, close-fisted and contemptible, a mangy dog were better than he. As in other abnormal accom})lishments, so in pro- fanity, the miner aimed at tlie liighest excelkincc. The ordinary insipid swearing lie scorned, and so hi- vcnted new terms of blasphemy befitting his more exalted ideas. Since the days i)f Cain God was never so cursed. Profanity was adopted as a fine art, and practised with the most refined delicacy and tact. From morning till ni<jht men mouthed their oaths and then swallowed them. The lanyjuaj^e of bias- pliemy, with its innumerable dialects and idioms, de- veloped into a new tongue, which displayed great depth and variety, with delicate shades befitting tint idiosyncrasies 'jf individual swearers. Tlie character of the man was nowhere more clearly defined than ill the quality and quantity of his oaths; one who ( (»uld not or would not swear was scarcely a man vt all, and but little better than a })ious hypocrite or a woman. Among the most cultivated blasphemers, who made swearhig a study, euphony was first of all regarded; and this was etf'ected by alliteration, an adjiTtive followed by a suljstantive both beginning with till' same letter. The style though studietl might be of the sinq)le or tloritl cast, but it was sure to he l)oth original and etfectivc. Xot that all men swore, or that all the swearing of tiie world during this epoch was tlone here; I only < laiiii that it was here original, if not abnormal and arti.^tic. Oaths have their nuK)d and tense and number, their individuality, and nationality. There is the sportive ' I m m FURTHER ABNORMITIES. oath, light airy and graceful as the limbs of the youth- ful dandy; the earnest oath; the angry oatli ; tlu; frank and hearty oath, indicative of honesty and g<j()d humor; the oath of success, in which the choictst gems of irreverence are thrown off like soap-bubbk-s ; , oaths of time, place, and occupation; the oath of com- mon conversation, the nmrderous cut-throat oath, the business oath, the oath of greeting, swearing when not knowing what else to say; the midnight guttural drunken oath, the clear ringing gladsome oath <it" morning, the orthodox oath, oaths that are not oaths, reluctantly coming from bashful inexperienced li[)s ; tlie scientific doubly-refined oath of the gambhu- ; oaths of nations, the good old round Englisli oatli, racy and mouth-filling as even Hotspur should wisli, the rolling sacre of the Frenchman, the infernal melody of the Spaniard, the whining Yankee cussings, tlu; spluttering Dutchman's swearings, and the imitative^ intonations of the Celestial. The nmleteer relievccl his burdened bosom in outpourings that seldom failtd to convict the most impenitent animal. Approaching the unfortunate mule that had fallen und(>r a heavy load, or had mired in the mud, its driver would pi)ur forth sucli a stream of profanity intc) its ear as would make the dumb beast tremble in everv fibre, and glance around with terrified eye as if expecting the earth to open, or the invoked deity to smite to dust the author of such fiendish imprecations. Under sucli exhortations, native stubbornness gave way, and tlic virtue of profanity was clearly vindicated hi the t^yrs of the driver. Indeed, notwithstanding all that has been said n - garding vice and crime, I am not so sure that Califor- nia in her wickedest days was worse than the pseudo ligliteous states of the east and Europe. In the shameful pleasantries of the times there were counttn- balancing virtues, which went far toward preserviii;^ the moral equilibrium. If iniquity here was more unblushing, there was less of cant and hypocrisy, less IMPORTED WICKEDNESS. 321 of covert deceit and pliarisaical humbug, less of that wliite lying and envy and jealousy which constitutes the pabulum of older religious and fashionable societies. Loyalty to an honest and enlightened ideal is, after all, the truest morality. Ill-fitting forms, provoking dissimulation and falseness, keep the social pool always turbid. Experience tells us that wickedness, in greater or less degree, is inseparable from human nature ; to hide away the evil, and cover our wrong-doing with placid smiles, polished bearing, or sanctimonious coun- tenance, may not be, after all, the surest way of eradicating it. A world of ideas was here flung into a world of practise, and until right was ready, force nmst rule. Like the returning heroes of the Trojan war, every leader has his history and historian, each one of whom sought to outdo the rest in their relation of daring deeds and marvelous tales, all leaving far behuid in this respect -^schylus and Agamemnon. Once when evening had stretched the shadows across the street, I saw a man of middle age, robust and proud, pouring into the bosom of a friend a tor- rent of sorrow, accompanied by liashful, agonizing tears. The cause of his grief I know not. It may have been the destruction of his hopes by fire, for on every side were the smoking cinders of a recent con- flagration which had laid hundreds low, and caused many a strong man to weep internally if not in actual tears. And who shall blame them, brave men though they be, for this is the third, or fourth, or fifth ruin with some of them, the third or fifth time fate has S(!nt them forth with only their head and two hands to begin life anew. I did not stop to listen, gaze, or question. With grief such as this, no stranger inter- meddleth. Yet to the disappointed man of toil I would say, yield thee not. Yet another blow, and another, and another. As long as thou canst strike, I care not for the result, thou art not overcome. As long as Cal. Int Poc. 21 ,: Wi 322 FURTHER ABNORMITIES. roU)nL!,ti pulsates in the heart it matters not the outer conditions or success, the man hves and nothing can queuf'li his energies. The strokes fall re»jfularly and to the purpose. Better to sow and never reap than not to sow, for in sowing lies the spirit of increu.se more tlian in reaping. He who can always work, I care not ft)r the result, is no failure. Work itself is life, progress, success. But alas I when courage casts off til J man, and coward fear enters in and saps activ- ity, unstrings the nerves and weakens the mind and body, uncaging hope and relaxing the tendons that grapple difticulties, the poor wretch, though he live and oat and sleep happily as ever, is dead already. Work, work I say; never mind what conies of it, work. For of such is the kingdom of earth and heaven. For so are we made. Like the Wanderin<jc Jew, we cannot stop. Ever and onward we nmst march, march, march. There is no rest but tlie rest of rotting, and even in this tliere is evermore work, work. Hence, a ni in having lost his hold and become workkss, is neither of this world nor of the next, but floats in a purga- torial abeyance worse than death. Weep, my good friend, if you will, there is nothing unmanly in tears. Despair not of him from whosi; sensitive or passionate nature adversity wrings tears : especially if they be tinctured by wrath or bitterness; but despair rather of him who with pointless languisli- nient lives usque ad nauseam. Well directed effort cannot always fail; but if it so appears, still let an- ticipation wipe the brow of labor and triumphal visions sweeten healthful sleep. Among many both of citv and country there was no fixed standard of morality. Each had been edu- cated in a different school, that is to say, those of tlu in who had been taught morality at all ; each held a dilf- erent tradition, or no tradition; religion was a father's rod or a mother's tears, and law and justice were in their own right arm, so that, as with the Sophists BUSINESS AND MORAL COURAGE. 3i»3 of Plato's tiino, plcnsiiro and pain, profit ami loss, were about the only criLcTia ot rijj-lit and wrony; and uold and brass wore iIm. only criteria of respoctabiHty. That unblushiiiiT eii<.'rgy which }»ushes men in wliere angels fear to tread, which so obscures the senses that (ino can scarcely see one's own failures, seemed at once, and almost unconsciously, to bear a man onward upon the topmost wave. If he fell he had no thought ot anything but io get on his feet again, surely he would not lie and cry about it like a child. "Many of my friends have left me," says the walt- iii':;. working one, "have left me for the states. Of latt , Sam Punches and others. And as they left they pictured me of what they should see at home; of their coniini; friendly meetinL'"s, ioys, and wet-eved ijreet- iiigs, such as my heart had often told me should be mine the day I might again behold the lustrous scenes of vouth. And I wonder if the «>rass will look as • aven, and tlie sun as l)nghtlv shine as fanev now pic- tures. Shall I see the faces that rise before me now, tlie forms and features photogra})hed in my memory years aijo, or will tliey seem stran*'e to me. wry and wii'dvled \ Will I have merry meetings and heart- felt greetings, I wonder? Days are dead and many dark nights have sunk into the tomb since I bade my native hills good-b\-e. I see them as I left them, and tliev are waving me adieus: I wonder if they all have changed, if I have changed. My beard has grown stul)ble, I grant, silver-gray mingles with the brown of my hair, yet my heart has not lost its buoyancy, nor my eye its brightness ; I can still laugh and love though I have felt ^vhat sorrow is. "Home shall see me one day, so the inward wl.is- per strikes my ear, and a mother's kiss shall call back childhood. Old of head but young of heart, a motli- ers's kiss shall scatter the silver ijrav hair and smooth and soften the fixed features; in a sister's embrace years of wanderings are lost. Then how soon my ab- ilrt JUl FURTIIEIl ABNORMITIES sencc and return both alike will be forgotten. Some- thini:^ tells me I shall see thein. •' Will Barry I shall see ; mv old playmate, school- mate, Will, fidus Achates. Will is married now, and he will talk to me of wife and little ones, as he would talk of an extra head, or arm, or leg. Wife and little ones 1 I wonder if Will has changed. Merry meet- ings and suppers; bright eyes, winning smiles, and soul-swelling nmsic I Shall I meet one nearer still than sister or mother; one who, laying her head upon my breast, and tightly clasping me around shall make me swear to wander no more; who breathuig rest into my soul, opens my eyes to beauties hitherto ob- scure, ojiens to my longings a passage outward and up- ward, and who fills the measure of my desires with her own satisfying self — lives she, and for me ? " Millions and millions of such floating thoughts hover ever round the brain of the waiting, working one, nerving the arm and sustaining existence itself, filling the dark shaft with bright images, furnishing stuft' for dreams. I never thought I should fancy the occupation of a pawn-broker, and yet I cannot see what there is about it that should necessarily render shop and shopman so obnoxious to Christian nostrils. It is said that their ox-eyed, hook - nosed and ugly-mouthed proprietors make their money through the necessities of the un- fortunate and poor. Granted, but who does not? Would you on that account close the comer grocery and the bakery ? Does not your banker acquire a pledge from his wearisome client before he deals out to him the ducats? Curse them for grinding the poor I Curse, then, all the world. Curse fathers for feeding their children bread earned by the sweat of hirelhigs ; curse mothers for pointing the finger of pcorn to those pitiable wretches whose very existence is contamination to their untempted daughters. Is your purse-proud capitalist who would see a poor THE rAAN'NBUOKER. 3*20 Wfu. starve before he would lend her five dollars on a ilead Imsband'a ring, any more the friend of hunum- ity than the grindin|jj Jew who wt>uld ? So it is with many of our popular prejudices — sift them and you fiml no substance. Oh, my pro[)hetic soul, mine uncle 1 Many a proud head has bowed beneath the symbolic balls for the first time in California. Could the pled^jes at tlie slio])s of San Francisco pawn-brokers rise up and si)eak, what tales they would tell ; of what sijjfhs, and poverty, and struggles, and despair they would speak ; of what broken vows, of what heartless cruelty, of wiiat devoted love and self-sacrifice, of what agoniz- iiig deaths 1 What touching, silent el(H|uence in tiiose worn and faded articles, many of them once pledges of affection, now pledges of necessity 1 Nothing smacked more strongly of the topsy turvy times, or was more characteristicallv Californian than tliesc pawn-brokers' shops. Ten per cont. a nioiitli; that was the rate charged, and the interest for one day was the same as for one month. Quick turns wen' likewise the rule, for the sharp-eyed Shylock re- ceived the riglit to sell pledges unredeemed at the ex- piration of one month. What a contrast there must be between pawn-brokers' pledges of different parts of the world. Here you see, scattered about the jvawn-broker's boudoir, the materials for a first-class ouiiosity shop; guns, revolvers, bowie-knives, swords, dress coats, camel-hair shawls, clocks, watches, dia- monds, meerschaum pipes, opera-glasses, books, gold- headed canes, flounced dresses, pictuies, and every conceivable article of value which is not too cumber- some or difficult of transportation. This temple of distress, the necessitous of overs'^ class and caste ap- proach : the unsuccessful adventurer, the ruined game- ster, the bloated victim of dissipation. See that pale, broken-hearted widow approach with tremulous step. She is a novice still proud in her poverty. With un- easy glances at the passing witnesses of her disgrace, m i 326 FURTHER ABNORMITIES. she enters a dimly-lighted, ill-ventilated room, steps up tt) an opening in the barrier of separation between customer and proprietor, similar to a post-office win- dow, and timidly lays upon the board perhaps a dia- mond ring, relic of happy days dejmrted. A dark visaged man in greasy coat and faded smoking-cap froin within seizes the jewel, and through glasses of the greatest magnifying power, critically scrutinizes it as if to read the sparkles of its soul. "How much?" at length he asks, peering at his customer over the top of his spectacles. "Thirty dollars," replies the applicant, who wishes to borrow as little as possible so that the jewel may be the more easily redeemed. " No more than twenty," the man in spectacles briefly responds. The ring had cost a hundred dol- lars years ago when diamonds were not worth so much as now. But taking the coin and certificate which the mati of money as a matter of course pre- sents, the victim of necessity departs, thinking "when and how shall I redeem it?" Lines of travel were soon established and every facility offered the impatient gold-seekers for getting from place to place. Good wagon roads were marked out through the valleys which in the summer an- swered every purpose, but after the winter rains had thoroughly saturated the parched and porous soil a loaded wagon once off the beaten track sank to the hubs and must be unloaded and pried out as from a marsh. Through the town the stage thundered out into the valley, over tlie broad plain, up the ascent, through rugged and sometimes more than suspicions defiles, then down by gradual and winding descent to where the half-stripped miners planted their heavy blows through the hot livelong day. The river steam- boats entered into the spirit of the times, and now and then there was strong opposition. Then might be heard opposition runners at the wharf crying "One dollar to Sacramento by the magnificent steamer STEAMBOATS AND STAGES. 327 Senator, the finest and fastest boat that ever turned a wheel from Long Wharf, sound and strong, with nnr- rors, mahogany doors and silver hinges — one dollar to- night — feather pillows and curled hair-mattresses, eight young-lady passengers and not a nigger from stem to stern of her. All the dead languages spoken, and all for one dollar 1" "Low fares and no monop- oly," yells another, "no more rotten bottoms and bursting boilers, and beds with bushels of bed-bugs and fleas 1 " In August 1853 the fare to Sacramento by boat was one dollar in the cabin and twenty-five cents on deck. Opposition steamers flaunted their banners, and Long Wharf presented a stirring scene. He was a luckless fellow who fell unprepared into the hands of the runners. Amidst cries of "no imposition prac- tised by this line," and cursings on a\\ sides of combi- nations, monopolies, and oppositions, he is fenced in by the philistines, and nolens volens he is hurried to the boat, whose representatives are for the moment in the ascendant. At the various landings along the rivers, stages take up the passengers and whirl them on toward the mines, and when wheeled vehicles are sto})i)ed by the rugged barriers of the Sierra foothills, saddle nmles stand ready to hurry them on to their destination. Out of every necessity is born a new phase of diaracter; and the Californian stage-driver — the whip par excellence of early times, now unhappily no more — is not the least origmal and fantastic — of the great conglomeration. Culled from the scum, with a swaggering air, a rough manner, and uncleanly mouth, lie is not without heart, conscience, and deportment. He is a lord in his way, the captain of his craft, the fear of timid passengers, the admiration of stable- boys, and the trusty agent of his employer. He prides himself in being an expert in his profession, to which all other occupations and professions are subordinate; all must sooner or later fall hito his FURTHER ABNORMITIES. ;il hands, for to this end towns are built and men and women migrate hither and thither. An offer of money as a gratuity would be received as a deadly insult, but he will graciously accept a cigar or a glass of liquor. Stage coaches are levelers of distinction, and the judge or governor on the box beside the driver is his equal, if not indeed his in- ferior; for can a man of law or politics drive a stage ? He who travels by steamer or stage must resign his liberty, and place his destiny for the time being in the hands of the august commander. Meeting on the road, the friendly drivers halt and hold a confer- ence, mingling with their classic speech the most refined blasphemy. In places of danger the stage- driver manages his team with the coolest dexterity ; but he will not go one inch out of his way to save his passengers from the fear of perdition. Sometimes he sees safety in speed, and performs wonderful feats in circumventing obstacles ; again he trims his boat or empties out the cargo. Two styles of vehicles were used, the Concord coach, carrying nine inside and two or five beside the driver outside, and the mud-wagon, of larger or smaller di- mensions according to roads and traffic. The best horses, four or six in number, were employed, the stage proprietor, like all others of quick perception and ac- tive energy who came to California, soon learning wherein lies true economy. Over a good road, ten miles an hour were readily made. Before the hotel and stage office in Sacramento, at dawn of day, were drawn up side by side, all fronting one way, twenty or thirty coaches, each behind ft)ur restive horses, at whose heads stood grooms hoklini,' them in check. Men of every nation and degree, eacli with a roll of blankets, and many carrying a rifle, elbow their way from a candle-light breakfast through a labyr- inth of horses and wheels, with lighted pipes and bottles of rum, seeking their respective coaches. The driver mounts his seat, casts a critical glance over the rig- STAGING EPISODES. ging, swears at the horses, politely directs his atten- dant to make some change, gathers up the " ribbons," and turning half round bellows to the crowd, "Ail aboard for Brighton, Mormon Island, Mud Springs, and Hangtown I " In times of opposition, the confu- sion was increased ten-fold by runners. " Now, gen- tlemen, this way for Nevada; take you there in five hours; last chance to-day for Coloma and George- town, Auburn and Yankee Jim's I'' Soon all is ready, and off they go, amidst shouts and cracking of whips, and clatter of horses' feet, and the rattling of stages, through the town, and out into the fresh morning air, into the vastness of the open sea-like plain, diving through the long grass, under the wide-spread oaks, down into gulches, across streams, and up into the hilly country of the mines. All is exhiliration and mei riment. Round the broad streets of Marysville gaily-decked horses before brilliantly painted coaches snort and prance in the early morning, while the office clerks stand beside drivers and shout, "Here ye are for Brown's Valley, Long Bar, Rough and Ready, and Grass Valley." In like manner the Stockton herald proclaims, ** Knights Ferry, Chinese Camp, James- town, and Sonora." Before the United States Hotel, Nevada City, one morning in May 1855, stood two rival stages for Forest City. One passenger only had put in an appearance when the agents for the contending lines came up and opened the business of the day. The solitary passenger they found seated in the stage. " What fare are you paying in there ? " asked the agent for the opposition. " Five dollars," was the reply. "Get out, and I'll carry you for four." The pas- senger, thinking it was an easy way to earn a dollar complies and takes his seat in the opposite stage. "Here, come back," exclaimed the other agent, " I'll take you up for three." 330 FURTHER ABNORMITIES. The passenger is but fairly reseated in the first stage, when an offer of two dollars tumbles him out atjain, and an offer of one dollar sends him back. But the opposition is not to be beaten m this way. " Well, old fellow," he finally puts in, "sorry to make you so much trouble, but get back here and I will carry you for nothing, pay for your dinner, and give you all the whiskey you can drink on the way 1 " I will cite one instance showing the behavior of these knights of the whip, under trying circum- stances. Upon the box of the coach leaving Forest City for Nevada the 23d of July, 1855, were seated two men, members of the Jehu brotherhood, one of whom was driving. Passing under the limb of a tree which seemed in some way to have settled and dropped down since the last trip, the top of the stage was torn entirely off, and the driver thrown to the ground. Of the eleven passengers one was thrown upon the root and three jumped to the ground. The crash of the breaking vehicle frightened the horses, which started off at full speed, dragging the driver some distance before they freed themselves from his grasp. The horses were now dashing along tin road at a furious rate, wholly without control, and the in- mates of the stage apparently helpless. • At this junc- ture the man who occupied the seat next the drivei, deliberately got down upon the pjle, walked to the end of it, gathered up the reins, returned safely to his scat, and finally succeeded in stopping the horses without further damage or loss of life. It was when the long routes were established across the plains, however, that staging assunjod its most gigantic proportions ; one by the way of Salt Lake and the other through New Mexico and Arizona — two thousand miles in twenty days and nights, stop- ping only to change horses and for meals. The road across the Sierra Nevada was fearfully picturesque, and going down the mountain sides was anythiiitj but quieting to unsteady nerves Lighting a cigar MULE PACK TRAINS. 331 and putting on the break and lashing his snorting licirses to a keen run, the skillful Jehu, with a diaboli- cal leer, would send his coach dashing round precipice and craggy wall on a thread of chiseled-out road, swaying and sliding to within a few inches of death, and dodging the overhanging rocks and trees, diving in and out of ruts and whirling round on the verge of chasms where but for the timely cry of " Sit up to windward," horses, coach, and company would be hurled into the abyss below. Moie than once the thing has happened, when upon a drunken driver, a slippery road, a fallen tree or boulder unexpectedly t iicountered in rounding some sharp turn, was laid the blame. At first, between the several towns and camps there were no wagon roads, but only mule trails ; so that among the hills and in the mountains, provisions and other supplies had to be carried to the miners strapped to aparejos upon the backs of nmles. Thus "packing" became a large business, and was one of the features of the times. Mules for the purpose were driven up from Sonora and Sinaloa, and Mexi- cans were chiefly employed as va'queros or nmleteers. ^Making up their cargoes hi loads of from two to four hundred p junds according to the roads and the ability of the respective animals, each load was evenly bal- anced and firmly lashed on. At sunrise or there- ahouts all was ready for the start, when an old horse with a cow-bell at his neck and a boy on his back led otf, and the tinkling of this bell the nmles would follow day and night. Three or five Mexicans on saddle-mules would follow a train of twenty or fifty mules re-adjusting loads, assisting the fallen, and urging on the whole with loud cries of "upal nmla, arribal arribal" Tlie Mexicans are the best vaqueros in tlie world. They are as familiar with the habits and idiosyncra- sies of the horse and mule as is the Arab of those of the camel, and they sit upon the saddle as if part FURTHER ABNORMITIES. of the animal. A loaded train will travel about twenty-five miles a day. The favorite camping- ground is a grassy spot near a stream of clear water ; there at night the Mexicans dismount and unpack. Bringing up one mule after another, a blind is thrown over the animal's eyes to make it stand quietly, then with one man on each side the hide ropes are rapidly untied, and the cargoes, consisting of sacks of flour, sugar, barley, and bacon, boxes of tobacco, dried fruit, and miscellaneous groceries, and kegs of liquors, each kept separately, are ranged in a row with the aparejo or pack-saddle in a parallel row, each saddle directly opposite its load, with the girth and saddle-cloth be- longing to it folded and laid upon the top. The mule's back is then examined, and if galled, remedies are applied to the spot, and the tired animal is turned loose to graze. In the morning the mules are driven up and packed in like manner, and on they go. On the whole the cunning little animal bears a good character. Though sometimes stubborn, it is as one possessed of the devil or overtaken by a fault rather than willfully wicked, for in his ordinary mood he is very patient and faithful. Though in some re- spects his sensibilities may be somewhat blunted, he nevertheless has a keen moral sense. He guards the load entrusted him with intelligence and faithfulness, being careful not to knock it against the trunks of trees, stooping low to let it pass under an overhang- ing limb, planting his feet firmly in dangerous places, eyeing the rocks that jut out over the trail round the mountain side, lest in an evil moment his pack striking one, he be thrown from the narrow path, and hurled trembhng into the abyss below. The moment tlio pack is loose or anything drops from it he stops, and no matter how hungry or weary he may be he is al- lowed little time to eat until his work is finished. Even in those days dreams were dreamed and proph- ecies prophesied of the time when San Francisco DREAMS AND PROPHECIES. 333 should be but five days' journey from New York, and the summer houses of the Gothamites should bask on the Pacific slope ; of the time when the shadows of gigantic trees should fall on mansions glittering like temples; and in the vistas of long colonnades, fringed and rainbowed by countless fountains, should stand statues worthy of Phydias, and should walk a people worthy to have been his models. These new Greeks were the Califomians of the twentieth or thirtieth centuries. Every woman is then to be pure as Diana, wise as the unborn goddess, and fair as she whose beauty awed the judges of Athens. The men are to 1)0 thewed like Hercules, shaped like Apollo, and wise as Plato. CHAPTER XIV. BUSINESS. ,^ij-<, called The world is full of hopeful analogies, and handsome, dubious e possibilities. — Oeorge Eliot. Business linos and methods were not definitely de- termined. You might buy butter in a hardware store and drygoods at a liquor shop. When Purser Forbes, of the steamer CaJifoimia, sot out to purchase stores, he ransacked the place, picking up here and there what he could find, paying usually a dollar a pound for provisions; whereupon, becomnig somewhat disheartened, he dropped into a restaurant, where, for a mutton chop, with poor bread, and still poorer coffee, and no butter, he was made to pay $3 50. Thereupon he thought it must be a great country, and so went on with his purchases. Business was conducted on high-pressure principles. On Long Wharf there was a candy shop, the owner of which, after six months' business failed for $100,000. So quickly after a fire was building begun, that a water bucket would have to be used before the new timbers were laid. Since the days of the Medici, who ranked hi'jrh among the class of Lombard money-changers, tlie in- signia of the three golden balls, derived from their armorial bearings, hang over the entrance to the pawn- broker's sliop. Frenchmen were the first to raise the occupation of boot-blacking into an art. The cleaning, and damj)- ening, and plastering, and polishing were not done by (334) SPECULATION AND WILD UNREST. 88ft women, as Dibdin, in his bibliographical tour, pictures it all in the streets of Caen. The few women tlitro were in those days were used to blacken characters, not boots. Much has been said by a class of persons whose en- thusiasm overshadows their judgment, of the breadth and bigness of everything Californian, as if size were worth, and bigness, greatness. 1 take no special pride in tlie size of California's turnips, nor in the amount of go!)] riddltsd from the placers; I rejoice in Califor- nia's btauties, for beauty is a thing to rejoice in; I bathe in her mellow, misty light, and drink her spark- ling air, and rejoice in her capabilities, in t! k > intelligence of her men and women — all that is good in them ; her frailties have no attractions for me, her sins are hate- ful to me. By midsummer, 1850, fifty ships were in port, upon whose cargoes the owners could not pay freight, and jmt up at auction the ship's consignees would buy them in. Traffic as here displayed, so loud, so large, so errat- ic, was the very irony of speculation; and for long afterward California was famous for wild ventures, and liigh rates of labor and interest; yet it was clear- ly enough demonstrated that such speculation may prevail unattended by general financial convulsions in a community whose circulation is purely gold and sil- ver. The recuperative powers of the people after a fire, Hood, or drought, were marvellous. An isolated com- nmiiity with a metallic currency tends to the originating and building up of private banks, andthougli a specu- lative inflated condition of things appears at intervals in a rapid spasmodic progress, the failure of any local or incidental element of prosperity, though affecting in some degree every membor of society, involved in ruin comparatively fev.^ Nevertheless, the country, and all about it was old and extravagant, the people and their doings being no less whimsical and bizarre til an tlie streets and the houses of the towns. Over the sudden and wonderful development of wealth, 8M BUSINESS. commerce in the young metropolis had become crazed. A few actual transactions which I will cite will illus- trate the diversities and vagaries of trade better than any general description. There were not lacking men, and a large class of them at one time on California and Pine streets in San Francisco, who were free and frolicking enough. During the height of the mining stock excitement the board of brokers boiled like a geyser cauldron. It was a queer fraternity this brotherhood of air-beating knights; surging and screeching in their struggles for commis- sions, which, when obtained, were pitched hither and thither with the reckless indifference common to all kinds of gambling. The champagne seller, the cigar seller, the jeweller, and livery-stable keeper, all came in for their share. Merrily these brokers made their money, and merrily they spent it. Most innocent were they in their broad and philanthropic egotism. In their eyes the universe revolved round their board- room ; and the man who hammered the anvil and yelled in well-recognized tones of superior discordance, was the Great and only One, the First Cause and the Last. Their creed and catechism were easy affairs. " I believe in the only one and respectable board of brokers," the former began, referring to the "big board," as distinguished from two or three smaller boards, whose members in the eyes of the aristocratic band were vulgar parverms, and bad society ; and to every such question as "Who made you?" and " What is the chief end of man ? " the answer was "A broker," "to be a broker," and the like. Their fehenna, which though large was not a veiy hot one, ecause of their uniform kind-heartedness, was filled with that vast horde of unfortunates whom fate had denied the blessedness of being brokers; these and bad members were refused admission to the heavenly hall. It was an exceedingly nerve-splitting occupation. The hours of business were few, but the clatter and THE STOCK BOARD. 337 bang of hammered iron and human voices raised to a pitch of wild phrensy made the excitement fear- fully wearing. The calling of a stock was sometimes as the flinging of a carcass to a mixed pack of raven- ous hyenas, wolves, or other bloody or bellowing beasts. Then it behooved them to be quick; for often an instant of time was thousands of dollars for and against certain interested ones. The fashion of their buying and selling was no less senseless than it was infernal ; but such a thing as questioning the manner of their calling never occurred to them. On the contrary it was their pride, their glory. •' One of the wealthiest stock-brokers of San Fran- cisco to day," writes one, " formerly peddled potatoes along the same streets where he can now count his own buildings by the dozen. Another well-known resi- dent, then a lawyer, now a judge in one of the courts, worked for several weeks as cook in a restaurant. Overhearing one of the patrons of the place complain that he could not find a lawyer to take up a case he had in court, he proffered his services, took off liis apron and went before the court, won the case, charged a fee of $200, and was retained for two other cases before leaving the court-room. A certain col- lege professor who went out from New York in '4'9, while working with a shovel on the public streets, overheard a Frenchman trying to arrange some busi- ness with a wealthy real-estate dealer. Neither of them could understand the other. The professor leaned upon his shovel and explained the meaning of the Frenchman. The matter was arranged in a moment. * Drop that shovel and take off your over- halls. You 're just the man I want,' bluffly said the real-estate man; and the next morning the professor commenced his career as business interpreter at twenty dollars a day." Once in a while a staid old merchant from Boston or New York, braved the dangers and disgusts of the voyage, to look after some consignment or other busi- Cal, Int. Poc. 22 BUSINESS. ness, when he would be struck dumb with astonish- ment at the reckk'ss whirlpool of business that sur- rounded him. He would see the shop-keeper sweep with his arm into a bag silver coin stacked upon his counter in payment for goods, as not worth the count- ing ; he would see screaming auctioneers crying off goods to whittling, tobacco-juice-spirthig bidders, who between jokes would buy whole cargoes, ship and all with terrible sany: froid. Thus the city-builders carried their work forward in wild irregular spasms but ever onward, unceasingly unhesitatingly. Often the arrival of a vessel, the completion of a wharf, or some such excuse would double the price of property within a few days. Again and again one wonders how it is that so many of the shrewd and enterprising so soon became bankrupt. With such foresight, such practical com- mon sense, uniting energy, and golden opportunities, all as it would seem wisely applied and earnestly em- braced, it was pitiful to see them later, all there were left of them, or well-nigh all, wandering the streets that they had made, by houses they had built but now no longer theirs, moving silently and sadly ovor long-familiar ground, yet amidst scenes strange to them though fruits of their own untiring energy — wandering thus alone unrecognized skeletons of their former selves, while a new generation of millionaires flaunted its wealth in their faces. It was sad to sic their wrecked hopes reconstructed by men of lessir worth, whose proud argosies bore heavily upon tlu ir slender craft ; to see tlie connnerce of a great metropo- lis, once their own, ruled by upstart speculators; tn see their sand-hill home, with its acres of garden ami barn-yard, become thick with magnificent mansioii>. wJKfse lords were lucky gamblers, whose parvenu mis- tresses flouted and overshadowed their humble wives, while they themselves plodded quietly through thiii declining years, happy indeed if wife, and children, and food, and shelter, might be left to them. STRIKES; (iOLD DUST TRADE. 8Se Strikes among mechanics began early in California. In July 1853 the carpenters of San Francisco com- plained among themselves of the irregularity of prices for day's work, the rate ruling from t< n dollars down to next to nothing. No one knew what to charge ; each was fearful of asking too much or not enough, und so they fixed wages at eight dollars a day, some- wliat above the average of what they had been get- iing. On the 18th, those determined to hold out and not work except for the wages named, to the number (»f about 400, held a meeting on the plaza, and after- ward formed a procession and marched through the town with banners streaming and nmslc playing. Had wai];> ■- been double, it is likely they would have been just as dissatisfied. Laborer's strikes are a melan- ♦ lioly commentary upon the intelligence of working uit-n, who fail utterly to see that wages are regulated I'V the inevitable law of supply and demand, and that any attempt to forestall this law reacts upon them- selves. The 'longshoremen determined to have six dollars for niiu' hours work, instead of five dollars for ten lioura, l^orambulating the wharves to the number of ul)out 300, they forced all who were at work to join tht'in, using threats and violence when entreaty failed. Tho wliarves for the time were almost deserted ; but lu'xt dav the stevedores havinjj acceded to their de- iiiands, the men went to work, happy in the thought of another dollar a day to spend and another hour to spend it in. At the same time the calkers and ship- carpenters demanded and received ten dollars a day. The firemen and coal passers then struck, the former demanding $100 a month, and the latter %7b. The masons of Sacramento also demamled the same wages received by their fellow-craftsmen of the bay, which Nvas ten dollars a day. The hod-carriers of Stockton, ill place of five dollars a day, struck for six dollars, hi San Francisco the system worked so well, that the masons whose wages had just been raised to ten dol- m BUSINESS lars, on the I7th of August, paraded the streets in a body, and refused to work for less than twelve dollars a day. During the first five years subsequent to the dis- covery of gold, the gold-dust trade underwent many changes. Prior to 1849 the ruling price at San Fran- cisco was fourteen dollars an ounce, and in the mines much less. It was once sold at auction for twelve dollars. Afterward the rate was fixed and maintained at sixteen dollars an ounce. Due attention was not paid by merchants to the quality or cleanliness of the dust, and many miners were not careful to remove all the black sand. The scales used were also not always the nicest, nor the weights most correct. The gold from central California was mostly vii^in gold; but that which was later thrown upon the market from the mines of Mariposa, Kern river and Fresno. was of inferior quality. This gave rise to a system of adulteration, which could not be easily detected by purchasers. In time assay offices were established t< > reduce the mass of the precious dust to a determined value before shipment ; this, together with the stimu- lating traffic by large competing banking-houses, ad- vanced the price of clean dust first to $17, and after- wards to $17 50 an ounce, this being the avera*jft'. The proceeds of some mines were, however, sold as low as $14, and those of others as high as $20. The gold-dust trade finally fell into the hands of four large houses, which a little later shipped only bars witli the true value stamped on them. In April. 1851, bankers agreed to receive on deposit no California coin other than that issued by Moffat and Company, who were the only ones faithful in their valuation, and had, moreover, made provision to re- deem the coin issued. Until the establishment of th(i mint at San Francisco, merchants suffered because of the exclusion of California coin from circulation. Tliey could not refuse to receive it without injury to their COINS AND COINAGE. 341 trade, and generally had much of it on their hands. Some foreign coins began to circulate at the value put upon them by the United States government. At last, to obviate difficulties, the legislature passed a law making it a criminal offence, punishable by fine and Imprisonment, for coiners to neglect stamping upon their coin its true value, or failing to redeem it from the holders thereof on demand. In October 1852 news came that the federal gov- ernment had ordered that the fifty-dollar slugs or in- gots should not be received for duties at the custom liouse. This was a serious blow, at a time when coin was very scarce. Legal coins at once advanced cwo ])er cent. Though that order was coupled with a liromise to establish immediately a mint, the people were not satisfied. The hank failures of 1854 and the political corrup- tion of 1855, hastened a commercial crisis which had heeii brewuig for a year or two y)reviou8. The mone- tary cataclysm of 1848-52, was followed by a reaction resulting from various causes combined, to-wit: in- < reuse of a non-productive population, greater labor to (X tract gold from the earth, high-pressure life and ifckless extravagance, a .succession o}' disastrous floods unci fires, and over-trading. Hundreds of merchants tailt (1 and involved hundreds of others in tlieir fall. Many failed as many as three times and started anew, I'tliirs took subordinate positions ordi-ank themselves t»i death. Not one in ten of the San Francisco mer- (liants of 1841), was doing business in 1855. Fifteen hundred lu^althy men, of every intellectual calibre, tnund themselves without occuj)ation •)r means of live- liliood. California's credit was now at a low ebb iiliioad. The population did not then increase at all. lltal estate was so low that there was scarcely any Hild. Since the fire of 1851, San Francisco saw no j^ldomier day than that foHowing the suspension of Pa,u;e, Bacon, and Company, announced on the 2 2d of February, 1855, i! aia BUSINESS. The San Francisco branch mint, in 1857, was robbed of ten or fifteen thousand dollars by the coiner's head cutter, William Bein, a Belgian. Bein was arrested the 19th of August, confessed the crime, and gave up to the United States most of the proceeds of his crime. The gold taken was in blanks and clippings, and the circumstance which aroused suspicion was the deposit, by a banking house, of certain small, rough, gold bars of standard mint value. Bein was promptly convicted. Others implicated in mint swindles were arrested shortly after. Isador and Henry Blum were brought up on a charge of conspiracy against T. A. Szabo, in attempting to extort money from him, believing him a mint-defaulter and in their power. Augustin Har- aszthy, melter and refiner of the San Francisco branch mint, on the 19th of September, was indicted by the United States grand jury upon a charge <it' embezzling gold to tlie amount of $15 1,550. He was arrested and released on $20,000 bail. Afterward h< was tried and sentenced to six years in the stat( prison an<l to i)ay a fine of $2,000. Californians early determined that as mind aii<l manners were here free, money should be free also. Dante could have found in California a better answ ei to the question why usury offends divine goodness, than the silly one Virgil gave him. It was in the realms below that the two were sagely discoursiiiu, and the sage and master answered that in (:Jenesis it is written that man is to work and multiply, and that the usurer thwarts nature by taking money without working for it. Good reasoning tJuit may be in hadt>s. but itsounds sillyin California, Our first answer is tliat usury does not offend God; our second tiiat nionev like any other commodity is regulated in its price hy the innnutable law of supply and demand, and is worth what it will bring in tlie market. If a person finds it profitable to borrow money at ten per cent a month, why should he not be permitted to do it ? If he can get it for less lie will not pay that ; if h' INTEREST AND USURY LAWS. S43 cannot make it profitable at that rate he will not borrow it. No greater absurdity stands upon the statute books of civilized nations than laws compell- ing men to loan their money for less than it is worth. Tliey might as well pass laws compellhig merchants to sell their wares for less than their value. On the statute-books of all enlightened countries, from the days of Shylock to the present time, the usury law has been obsolete, and the idea of foisting Kuch a piece of antiquated nonsense upon the people of California was not to be thought of. They wanted no laws regulating the price of the use of money, they said, any more than laws regulating the price of flour or city lots. Men are supposed to know their own business best; one, what he can afford to pay for the use of money, and another what rate of inter- est he can afford to loan it at. There is no more reason for a legislature to pass laws regulating the interest of money, than that it sliould frame sumi)tu- ary laws which we all admit would be a step back- ward. At that time particularly, the chief staple of California was the metal of which money was made, and lier business men of all others should know that this as well as any other product is liable to fluctua- tions according to the supply and demand. If the mercliant, manufacturer, or miner, can attbrd to pay high wages and high interest, it shows that the country is so prosperous and his enterprise so ]»r()fit{ible that he is justified in paying high for capi- tal and labor. In times of panic or stringency aris- ing from overtrading or extravagance the case is iMHerent; but it is not against such contingencies that a usury law aims to provide. The objc^ct is to invade a man's jirivate afl'airs when lamez fairc is Ix'tter. Besides, admitting the existence of an evil, usury laws instead of curing it only aggravafr it. In till' place of securing the lender a return of his money with tl)e interest agreed on by law, it only forces him to resort to fraud in loaning his money, and by weak- m 344 BUSINESS. ening his security to throw a heavier burden upon the borrower. Almost all laws made to protect bor- rowers of money react on the borrower, the lender having the advantage. The suspension of several banks threw the wheels of finance generally off the track. Confidence in other banking houses was im- paired ; the solvency of merchants was suspected. No man felt that his ducats were safe unless he had them in his own possession. Likewise the effect upon the people of the suspen- sion of the two great express companies was much greater than that of all the banks combined. There was not a town of any consequonc<^ in the interior or on the coast from San Diogo to Puget Sound, where one, or most generally both of these companies did not have oflUces. There thousands of miners and labor- ers liad deposited their little all, preparatory to remit- ting to their friends at the east; they had there laid by a little for a rainy day, a nest egg, passage-money lionie, in fact their all, the result of years of hard labor— thousands, I say, throughout the length and breadth of the land, saw their money and their hopes thus suddenly cast away. And if credits during the flush times were freely givtiu, us u rule debts were prom[)tly paid. Business was done u[)on honor. There was no law ; away from the larger towns there were no [)reteusions in the way of tribunals for the collection of debts. Had there been such they would have received little f>atronage. If the debtor was ill and unable to work, why molest him ? Poverty, there was none. When every rivulet and ravine yielded large nturns to tlu; application of pick and paji, he who was able to wield these implemcmts could not be called poor. If the di'btor was a rascal, and would not pay when he could, a knife would cut the difficulty, or a pistol-ball reach the wrong quicker than the law. In the first flush of business upon the new Ameri can high -pressure priiicii)le, after gold had been dia- 1 1 BUYING AND SELUN6. 345 covered but before sufficient time had elapsed for cargoes to arrive from a distance, when money was l)lenty and prices had advanced in some instances a thousand per cent, the trick was to get goods, not to sell them. The two chief rival firms were Charles L. lioss, and Howard & Melius, each of which kept a w til-manned boat ready on the instant to shoot out to- ward the Golden Gate, on the approach of any mer- rliant vessel, so as to forestall competitors in securing stock. To this end a sharp lookout was kept, as we may easily imagine, and every means adopted at once to catch the first view of the incoming vessels and Mind the eyes of the others to the welcome sight. It luippeiied one opaque, niisty morning that the fog lifted for a moment only, just long enough for Ross' sentinel to see loominj; seaward a maijnificont britr wiiose white sails in the vision seemed to fill the whole o(<'aii. Ross and his crew were soon afloat, pulling liard in that direction. So was the rival lioat, for the watchers had been watched, and such movements were well understood. The advantage, however, was witli Koss, who beside havhig the start, knew where the vessel lay; and by pulling stoutly out of course and tlien escaping them in the fog, he threw his com- IK'titors off the scent, found tlie brig, crawled up the sides to the deck, and as coolly as possible after the fancy of Yankee traders, salutt^d the captain and opened negotiations. "What ye got?" demanded b'oss. "Waal," the captain began, "there's some wooji'n shirts, a hundred and fifty or two hundred dozen ' "Stop a moment,' Cxclainied Ross who I'laiidy heard the sound of oars approaching every moment nearer, "wliat'll you take for everything on Itnard?" " Oh, I guess you are joking," simpered the skipper. "N«>, I am not joking," said Ross, drawing iiom his pocket a handful of yellow goUl. "What advance on your invoices will you take for all the merchandise in your ship?" The skipper |K>ndered, nut faiUng to notice the rapidly increasuig noise of i 1 1 846 BUSINESS. oars, this sharp-witted Boston captain; he pondered as he eyed the New York man thus met on this western aide. It was a long proceeding, carefully se- lecting and laying in this cargo, in which twenty or more shippers were interested, and guiding it safely through divers-tempered winds, over 16,000 miles of ocean, to this very far-away port — it was a long pro- ceeding to be disposed of summarily, for three months would have been a short time ordinarily in which to have sold the cargo. Three months ; and fifty per cent, would have been regarded as a good round profit. " Come, captain, if you want to trade, and I take it that is what you are here for," said Ross, now growing a little nervous, " how much advance, and the money down?" The skipper looked him steadily in the eye, glanced significantly at Howard who was climbing up the side of the vessel, and answered slow- ly, *'one hundred per cent." "I'll take it,' Ross said. "This will bind the bargain," he added, as hv passed over the handful of money. *' And I'll make those woollen shirts pay for all the damned truck here," said the purchaser, as he regahied his boat, swearing thus mildly not through lack of feeling, but because he was in training for a position as teacher in Wheeler's forth-coming Sabbath-school. And the gentle Brannan, Sam; he learned to flaunt the Mormon's money bravely at the auctions. Sum delighted in auctions. Never was he so happy as when perched on a high box smoking a long cheroot, and sinking the small blade of his sharp knife into the soft pine. Gillespie was then at the head of tlu; Cliina trade, and the disposal of cargoes by aucti<»n was daily gaining favor. It saved so nmch trouble in the way of handling, and warehousing, and charg- ing, and collecting, and prices were often better thai: when jobbed out. One day, pursuant to notice, Gil- lespie put up a cargo of tea to sell. At the hour, there upon his box sat Sam, smoking, and spitting, and wliittling, thinking perhaps of the extravagant MANNERS AND METHODS, 347 price of wives in the market, and how much it would cost to people Zion at current rates ; thinking of the temple to the living God which he was to rear in the wilderness; thinking of anything except lucre, and tlie price of tea. " Ten chests with the privilege," began Gillespie. " I will sell not less than ten chests, the purchaser to have the privilege of taking as much more at the price sold as he pleases." Around the open boxes merchants were blowing and crushing, and smelling and tasting; Sam sat serene. "And how nmch am I offered ? " Gillespie went on. " Thirty- five cents, thirty-five ; forty ; and five ; fifty ; fifty-five cents I am offered ; sixty. Are you all done gentle- men? Sixty cents, going; sixty cents, once; sixty cents, twice ; third and last time — " " Sixty-one 1 " came from the top of the box. " Sixty-one, sixty-one cents, and sold. How nmch will you take Mr Bran- uan?" Now there was tea enough in that ship to give every grocer in town a good stock, and the bid- ders present had all so reckoned, and had deemed it tolly running it up to a high price when they could just as well buy it low. The tea was then worth in the market one dollar and a quarter, or two dollars and a half, or five dollars, according as it was held and controlled. Brannan was the heaviest buyer there; he miorht take fiftv chests out of the five hundred. So they reasoned, and were content that Sam, tlie ravenous, should first satisfy himself Imagine, there- fore their chagrin as in answer to the auctioneer's (juostion, '* How much will you take Mr Brannan," they heard come from the top of tlie box, where the eyes were still bent on the continued wliittling, in notes like the snarl of a coyote, "Tlie whole damned concern." The prices of provisions were exceedingly unsteady, and those accustotned earlv in the morninij to enter the markets with their baskets on their arms, for few delivered what they sold in those days, soon learned not to be surprised at anything in the way of prices. I'i 'i. ^ VM >:4 348 BUSINESS. ■1^ i ! One day George Eggleston stood behind a box of fine fresh eggs talking with Bob Parker from whom he rented his stand when a customer came up. "How much are eggs?" "Six dollars." "What, a box ? " " No, a dozen." " Give me a dozen." Some- thing in the little trade struck Parker, who delighted in waggery, as a little ludicrous ; probably it was the indifference with which the customer bought eggs, paying as cheerfully six dollars a dozen as six dollars a box. And the plot of a little joke instantly arose in his mind. "George," said he, when the customer had gone, " you will never make anything in this business if you don't keep better posted in prices." " How so ?" demanded Eggleston. " Why, here you are sellinjj egijs at six dollars a dozen, when the regu- lar price everywhere is eighteen dollars," responded Parker. " But I know where I can get all I want at throe dollars," said Eggleston. " That's it," replied Parker. " Yt)U haven't the business sense that tells a man liow to make avail of his opportunities." Parker tlien turned to speak t « a friend ; but one ear was open to Eggleston's doings as a dai)per little man of family stepped briskly up and oegan negotiations "Hello, George, those are nice eggs; how do ye sell 'oni." "Well," replied Eggleston, somewhat slowly and denmrely, "eggs are a little up this morn- ing; those arc eighteen dollars a dozen." "All right, " said tlie little man, " I'll take two dozen." And he laid down the thirty-six dollars far less grudgingly than the average Boston man would have given thirty-six cents for an equal quantity of the same commodity. Potatoes were scarce and high at San Francisco during the winter of 1848-9, and as there had been scurvy in the mines they were specially desired. The Hawaiian Islands crop had been bought and eaten, and the ground had been hoed over a second time for what had been left the first ; for prior to this last operation there was not a potato for sale in the PRICES CURRENT. 349 town. The day after the cleaning-up ship had come in from the Islands, some small watery specimens of the root were exhibited in the market, and on the doorpost of one of the hotels was tacked a shingle on which was (Chalked "potatoes for dinner to-day." And early that morning the thrifty burghers of the place were out with their baskets, smilingly asking the market man "How do you sell potatoes?" "A dollar and a half," the rieply would come. "Give me a bushel." "A bushel I They are a dollar and a half a pound." "Oh I ahl I will take two pounds." California gold largely increased the importation of silks, velvets, laces, jewelry, and other articles of luxury. It stimulated the building of houses, and carriages, the breeding of horses, but not the rearing of children ; it increased the number of theatres, balls, parties, and concerts four fold, and advanced real estate values, and the prices of all commodities. One day a man having 1,500 dozen eggs for sale, brought in by a coasting schooner, hailed a street mer- chandise-broker, of whom there were hundreds in those days, and insisted on his buying them, which the broker finally did, at 37^ cents a dozen. Right away the buyer began to sell at $4 50 a dozen, when the first seller exclaimed " What a fool I have been 1 " and securing the remainder at the last mentioned price, took them to Sacramento and sold them at $6 a dozen. When tobacco was down, a man desirous of build- ing a house on made ground tumbled in boxes of it, enough to form a foundation. Before the house was built tobacco was worth $1 a pound, more than a dozen such houses. Wanting a cn)S8 walk one threw in sacks of beans, which shortly after were worth thirty cents a pound. At the restaurants of the period. Skinner's chop house on Second street, Sacramento, for example, were heard all the old cries of the cheap eating- houses of Fulton, Ann, and Nassau streets. New VJf ip i! niji 880 BUSINESS. York. Blustering waiters in greasy clothes switch- ing filthy towels about the noses of their guests, bawl their orders from morning till night and from night till almost morning, in the honorable effort to fill the stomachs of the great unwashed. Loud of voice and with faces red they cry, through the hole which opens into the fizzing, smoking kitchen, "Hurry up them cakes 1 "" Plate of fish-balls quick 1" "One rare steak ; one hasli ; plate o' fried tripe, with one onion, done brown!" "Come, why don't yer hurry up them cakes ; don't be all day 1 " Thus they con- tinue, through the busy hours of meal time amidst clatter of dishes, and now and then a crash resulthig from a collisi(m of the carriers, varying their stern calls with benign and soothing words to the afflicted customers: " One moment, sir." '• I'll attend to your case, sir." " Now then, sir ; we have as you perceive by the bill of fare everything you can wish, sir." A miner mumbles forth his order, and the next moment is almost lifted from his seat by the shout : " Cakes, sausage, tripe, fish-balls, liver, and tea for one, quick 1 * Long Wharf, by which name the lower end of Com- mercial street in San Francisco was known in the early years, was tlie rendezvous for thieves and thimble- riggers as well as for all sorts of peddlers, criers and "givers away" of merchandise. There Cheap John flourished in all his glory, and no matter how hard the times, drove, what appeared on the surface, a lively business. •' That feller in thar talks as ef he had his tongue iled ;" remarked an attentive observer, a tall, raw-boned, liatchet-faced individual, one evening. "Talking of iles," immediately broke forth the facetious auctioneer who overheard the remark, "I have somethinof here which I ravther think will kinder take you," at the same time holding up as many bottles of hair oil, brushes, and pieces of soap as both hands could contain. " Here's a lot of goods, gentlemen, worth in a reg- CHEAP JOHN AUCTIONS. S.'Sl ular way five dollars." The crowd smiled audibly. •*Now, I don't want as much as that," continued Cheap John. *' Times is too hard, and if you won't liave 'em for something you may take 'em for nothing. I'll put 'em all at four-an'-a-'a'f. Who'll givenic four? Take 'em along for three, gentlemen, you know times is hard and these goods must he cleaned out of here. There tliey are for two-an'-a-'a'f. Who says two? Down they go at one, and to show you that times is hard and that these goods must be sold, there they lire for fifty cents, and I'll never ask a cent more nor cake a cent less." " Well, mister," drawled out the sharp-visaged ob- server, who by this time had worked his way up to the counter, "times is hard, very hard I may say, an' t f you'll jest throw in that 'ar coat an' pants, an' that 'ar vest, an' fiddle what's hangin' up thar agin the wall, why dang my buttons ef I don't paternize yer fifty cents worth." Sickness was an expensive pastime in those days, and to indulge in some diseases was much more ct)stly than in others. The fee-bill of the San Francisco iiit'dical society, organized June 22d, 1850, gives tlie prices for various visits and operations rang- ing from $16 — one * ounce,' — the lowest, to $1 ,000. A single visit was $32 ; a visit in regular attendance $32; for every hour detained $32 additional; advice $50 to $100; night visits as consulting physicians 8100; for various specified operations from $500 to $1,000. Doctors flourished, and as a class were no more scrupulous than ministers or minors. At Yeates' raiicho, in 1 841), a man died. He had two yoke of cattle and a large quantity of provisions in hia wagon. Df Sparks took care of him, and when he died claimed the rattle and wagon for the doctor's bill. Dr Sparks was soon taken sick and Dr Clinton took care of him. Sparks died and Clinton took cattle, wagon, pro- visions and all the property Sparks had, for his bill. i i < <9 M BUSINESS. A wag published in the Herald of June 6, 1851, a caricature model business-letter of the day, from a California correspondent of an eastern shipper. The receipt of several hundred ship-loads of goods is acknowledged, most of which were sold at half their cost, and the remainder of the invoices were closed by the regular fire of the 4th ult. "Some two hundred of your vessels," continues the letter, "have cleared for China and the Elast Indies; the balance, Hay five hundred, remain in port from our hiability to negotiate further drafts on you. Most of them are less liable to sink, as they now lie on the sand flats, than they would be if sent to sea, and we would advise their re- maining as they are some forty or fifty years. We would advise the immediate shipment of some five hundred assorted cai^oes as the supply in the market is not more than sufficient for fifteen months. Any article quoted at high prices, the consumption of which is limited, should be shipped in large quanti ties, in order to compete with the host of other ship- pers. In shipping dutiable goods, you need never provide for the payment of the duties, as we are at all times prepared to advance the amount required at ten per cent, per month interest ; or, if you prefer it, have the goods stored in the celebrated U. S. fire-proof bonded warehouses, at the trifling expense of seven dollars per ton the first month, and three dollars each succeeding month. An anniversary fire is confidently expected on the 14tli inst., when we hope to close most of our consignments." Looking at the fleet of vessels at anchor in the harbor, one wondered how it was possible for three hundred thousand men to consume the cargoes of them all. But these three hundred thousand weru equivalent to a million of mingled young and old, women, children, and men. Cities were to be built, farmes stocked, and mines developed, and all this re- quired immense supplies and material. Little or uothing was then produced ; even lumber for building, TRAITS AND CHARACTERISTICS 3S3 and vegetables and grain, were shipped from distant ports. The captain of a vessel landing from a small boat, throw his valise upon the shore, and calling out to a ship's porter, "Carry that valise up to the hotel, my l>oy," pitched him a half dollar. Drawing back from the com, which he had permitted to fall upon the ground, with an air of magnificent disgust. Jack drew from his pocket two half dollars, and throwing them over toward the captain, exclaimed as he turned upon liis heel, "carry it up yourself" Some long-headed, leathery-brained Boston Yankee i?ent out shot. He had more shot than he could sell av. home, and he had been told that there was consid- eiable shooting among the miners; so he threw into a shipment a large consignment of shot. "Who wants shot in California I " exclaimed the consignee. " Nobody," replied a broker. " What'll ye give for *em ? " " Don't want 'em." "Didn't ask if you wanted them. I asked what you would give for them." " Oh I ten or twenty cents a bag." " Thoy are yours at twenty cents." The buyer then rubbed up his wits, and presently sold them at $4, to be run into revolver bullets. Then lie bought a lot of tacks at ten cents a paper; for "wliat do people want of tacks who have no carpets?" ho liad asked. But when they began to tack up can- vass houses, all those tacks went off lively at $2 a pajHT. Of the firm of Priest, Lee and Company, at Sutter's Fort, was Christopher Taylor, who went from Oregon to San Francisco in 1848, on the brig Henry, which carried down produce, lumber, provisions, and passen- gers. In company with several Oregonians he pro- ceeded up the Sacramento in the little vessel of Sutter and Hastings, arriving at Sutter's fort in September. Cal. Int. Poc 23 3S4 BUSIXESS. I : mi ' I There they hired a team to take them to Coloma, at which place they encamped. He whom Mr Taylor calls his partner went over to the middle branch, where he met friends whom he joined, and was soon maiiing one or two hundred dollars a day. Being thus left alone, Taylor returned to the fort, arriving the 25th of September, and having in his pocket about twenty-five dollars. While considering in just what way he would make his fortune, his money being pretty well spent, he was accosted by his old friend Barton Lee. "Chris, what are you going to do?" "Well," said Taylor, "I think I shall go into business here." "You are just the man I want," returned Lee. "Come and dine with me." Now neither of these individuals had capital suffi- cient to pay a week's board; yet each thought the other possessed of abundance. Both, however, wore enliijhtened before dinner was over. Lee had a littlo the advantage, as he had begun a large business by renting a room in the fort for a store, though he had nothing to put in it. For this he had promised to pay a rental of $100 a month; the first month's rout was still due. These interesting facts came out gradually between courses, as they might be told without affecting digestion. " What do you think of it ?" asked Lee after dinner. " I think I shall go into business," paid Taylor. ' * Whore is the stock to come from?" inquired Lee. "Do yf)U know any one at San Francisco?" "No one," re- sponded Taylor. "But we can get goods enougli; we will buy them." There were at this tiujo con- stantly arriving from the bay small slooi)s, laden with such goods as the miners required. Assuming the attitude of senior partner, although Lee had tlie room rented before him, Taylor said, "While I sweep out the store, you go down to the embarcadero and buy out the first vessel that arrives; buy ever^'thing on board." " But where will I gc^t money with whioli to pay for it all?" Lee wanted to know. "Leave tliut ifEANS AND MEAWRES. Mr to me," replied Taylor. Lee did as he had been di- rected, and returned reporting the purchase of a cargo. "What does it consist of?" demanded Taylor. "Ore- gon bacon, flour, and boots and slioes," was the reply. "Exactly what we want," said Taylor. "About tlio ]»av — what arranixemcnt did vou make ? " " Not anv." "Well, in the morning say to him that his money is ready, and he shall have it as soon as the goods aio landed." "That is all very well," said Lee, "but I would like to know what kind of a scrape I am gettiuk; into." "Docs the captain drink?" "He soaks in it all the time." "All right; see that plenty of whisikcy i^ always at hand; as fast as the cargo is dischar«ivHl, send it to me, but do not lot him tjike it out too raj)- idly; tell him our team is worked hard, and that we are so crowded we cannot st«nv it away faster." All went on smoothly at the embarcadero. The master of the vessel thouixht Loc one of the best men he had ever met, exceedingly honest and trutliful. Tavlor handled himself livelv about the store. Ha made trade brisk. Some of tliose in the crowd that '.vas coming and going he knew; they and otheis wanted supplies. The goods as they arrived were not put into tlio store, but were piled up outside, thus making a grand display. Such largo merchants nmst surely have largo means, and good credit. The result of it all was the merchandise was sold as fast as de- livered, and when the captain camo for }iis money, the jt.trtners had enough to pay f r the cargo, vessel, and all. It happened one day wirh Mr Palmer, in settling oil-hand some accounts with a business acquaintance involving heavy transactions, that he stood near a pile of lumber. There was due the man from i'ahner 8-r),000, for which Palmer gave a check on Palmer, C()(»k,and Company, writing it with chalk on a shingle, which was presented and promptly paid. The diggers alone produced the gold ; a,s for the rest, all preyed on them and on each other. Even ^1l il-li i ' Jl It "m BUSINESS. the packers and traders were often hard pushed to make both ends meet, as when Shnonton sold his mangy dog for $50, taking in pay two worthless pups at $25 each. In the summer of 1851, business was decidedly dull. Everybody comi)lained. Many returned home. Miners had touched bottom ; for agricultural products there would be no demand, and the country was miw a good one to leave. Auctioneers continued to ham- mer off goods at rates which, after paying freight, cartage, storage, and conunissions, if the shipper was not brought in debt himself, he might deem himself fortunate. How like a golden dream the old time came over them — ^the brisk trade, and three and five hundred per cent profits of '49 and '50 1 Alas, but for the fires they might now be at home enjoying the fruits of their enterprise, instead of being obliged, for the third or fourth time, to try it just once more. None felt the dull times which seemed to settle on San Francisco in earnest first toward the spring of 1852 more than the sporting fraternity. Many gambling-houses did not make enough to pay the nmsic, and gamblers did not refuse to ])lay lor as small a sum as a quarter of a dollar. Fifty-dollar slugs were as common on the dealer's table four months previous as silver dollars were now. The absence of rain about the 1st of March made business men and miners blue. People were just beginning to realize the full effect of the absence of rain upon the interests of the country, and no one had the heart even to gamble. Grand raffles were then started to stimulate the flagging spirits of gambling. Tobin and Duncan, auctioneers of China ^oods, finding them- selves with a large stock, and bidding being slow, en- gaged the Jenny Lind theatre, spread out a brilliant array of prizes, one thousand in number, consisting of diamonds, jewelry, paintings, and China fabrics, and on the (Jth of March, 1852, distributed the whole by lot amoniT the larire audience in attendance. Fi^■e among Ui'-lBi RAFFLES AND OTHER GAMBLING. hours were occupied in the drawing, which took place under the superintendence of a committee of eiglit persons. The first prize, a diamond watch valued at two thousand dollars, was drawn by one Moses. Duncan's Chinese salesrooms, thrown open the 5th of April, 1853, made a finer display of Oriental mer- chandise and curiosities than any similar establishment in Europe or America before or since. Spacious rooms, tastefully fitted up, were crowded with costly Asiatic goods, })rescnting the appearance more of a magnificent museum than a shop. The wealth and splendor of the Indies were spread out in tempting array for the benefit or ruin of purchasers — shawls from Thibet and Cashmere, silks embroidered bv pa- tient Hindoos, Chinese robes, ornaments in wood and ivory, work-boxes of Bombay, scented sandal-wood, grotesque carriages from Japan, porcelain ware, and paintings. Beside the elaborately wrought silk and crape shawls, which were very popular at first, but which soon we it t ni of fashion, the Chinese shops in San Francisco ottered many curious articles. Carved ivory, representing auunals, cities, pagodas, junks; puzzles, fans, chess and checker-men in wood and ivory ; sandal-wood, roots twisted into peculiar shapes; gorgeous but flimsy silks, satins, and velvets; hila'id l.uMjuered ware and china, silver filigree work, pictures, jDid a thousand other things, displaying the a3sthetic shades in the minds of those half-civilized heathen. Business at the beginning of 1854 was pronounced (hill ; everybody was complaining. The minors lacked water, tire country traders money, and so the ware- In >uses of the city must groan with goods and their owners with mnui It. would, indeed, have been very strange had not sonio become <liscouraged. One man landed in San Kniucisco in January, 1851, with $150,000 worth of troods. The first fire after his arrival destroyed half ot tliom, the next swept away the remainder, and ! Ill I :- ^ f/0 BUSINESS. after a six months business career in California, he returned home ruuied and well-nigh heai"t-broken. No wonder that some, their fortunes smitten to dust, predicted for the city the fate of Babyh)n, and fled from its portals as from the gates of Sodom. But notwithstanding the rapid succession of disasters, ^vhich in any other country under heaven would have sri'nied fatal, again and again the city rose from its aslu'S, and its people buckled on anew their battered armor. Yet the spring trade of 1854 was good. It fell olT as usual toward summer, when there were great complaints against insane and avaricious eastern shii)i)ers for glutting the market with goods. In August there was a revival in business and general pr<»spi'rity throughout the state. Notwithstaiidhig the many destructive fires, building was active, and in the interior tt)wns a better class of liouses were erected than ever before. Marysviile was specially lively at this time, and the coast towns fiom Ban Diego tA Puget Sound — San Pedro, Santa Barbara, Santa Cruz, Monterey, Eureka, Trinidad, Crescent City, I\jrt Orford, and others began to show signs of progress. At tine of the sales of the state's interest in the city of San Francisco water lots, in October '854, 1;12 lots wen; bid oil' to a certain person who bubst- (juently made two payments on account of tlie same ill accordance with the terms of Siile. At the proper tiniG the purchaser presented himself before the auc- tioneers, the agents of the board <*f commissioners, pr< j)ared to make the third and iiaal ])ayment, tt>- getlier with the usual commissions and a fair price fer drawino; ui> the deed. The Rircnts for tlio sale nt' the state s interest refused to receive this last install- ment, unless the purchaser would pay them in addi- tion to their legal connnisslons $1,1)80 for making out the deed, liehig at the rate of fifteen dollars a lot f<r the 132 lots. AlthoUirh but one deed for the entire CHANGE AND REGENERATION. 359 purchase was necessary, the auctioneer claimed the right to cliarge the same as if 132 dift'erent deeds had been drawn up. This exorbitant demand the purcliaser refused to pay and the lots were resold by the commissioners' agents. Thus matters progressed. From a savage wilder- ness there soon emerged a settled community ; fortunes were made and lost ; cities arose like magic and were destroyed by fire or flood in a breath ; one day the noisy industry of a busy population echoed through the liills and ravines, and the next all was deserted as if smitten by the plague ; speculative excess, gamb- ling, and debauchery ran riot, while decency stood l)y helpless to restrain. Unworthy and unprincipled men usurped the highest offices, and by tlieir nefari- ous schemes filled their pockets and those of their abettors with the ill-gotten gains of pilfering and dis- honesty, and all this time tlie press was either silent through fear of })ersonal injury, or basely sold itself to uphold iniquity. Then can)e a change for the better. Vice was compelled to retire from ]>ublic gaze; the gambl(;r and the harlot were no longer allowed to ply their trades on the most public t!;orough fares in the broad light of oixiu day, and the beu'/li Itecame in a measure purified. Yet public and private enterprises of a substantial aiul permanent character were projected and cairied out in greater numbers and more rapidly than hith- erto. Formerly, such only were attempted as would immediately }'ield a ricli rew'ard, and these wcni ac- < oiiiplish*!*! with the least possible expense, and in such a manner as to last only for the time being. T(>nts, liuts, and log-cabhis were the h(mies of the ndner, a raft was his ferry-boat, and a scratch upon tlie hillside liis water-ditch. The towns and cities were of nmsh- rooni growth, merchants cooked and sKpt in their ;'!)lit-board stores, find guarded their goods and tri'as- urcs from thieves and fires. Farming life was no bet- ter, and exhibited ft w evidences of that spirit of 1 '» 360 BUSINESS. content and permanence which now began to appear m well-tilled lands, with fences pnd drains in hand- some dwellings with cultivated j^urdens and commo- dious outhouses. Culture and improvement began, to be seriously considered; institutions ..ore organized devoted to morals, religion, temperance, and the ini provement of the mental and physical condition of tlit young. Plank roads were made, and substantial bridges built across the principal streams. Some eastern men made money in California, but more lost heavily. If from sickness, fire, flood, or any other cause, the extravagant ideas of eastern speculators failed to bo realized, agents were accused of frcaud, and the reputation of the whole country called in question. A loss is mourned in louder tones than tell a profit, and as, owing to the chaotic state of aflairs, venture after venture was lost, and men wlio had been known and trusted from boyhood slipped from tlio fingers of rectitutle, the world was filled with complaints of California, and it was thought that goM and its corrupting influences had so undermined tic principles of its votaries that the atmosphere! of the Pacific slope was tainted with moral contagion. How manv of those men labored true to their trust amidst the most disheartening reverses, their friends at home never knew Rushing liither, blind to all before them, they fouTtd u condition of afl^airs xery dift'erent from what tliey ha<J anticipated. The mart was crowded with artiel<H unauited to the nujuirements of the country, and lacking what it needed most. The mines did not yield inevitable and immediate wealth, but severe labor was there rewarded by fluctuating suc- cess, so that the most faithful to their trust wiiv sometimes forced to annul contracts and diHa|)}M)iiit expectation. CHAPTER XV. ILLUSTRATIONS OF LIFE AND CHARACTER. Al mondo mal uon e senza rimedio. — Sanncaaro. In newly-settled regions rural siujplicity is rare. Igntiranco, stupidity, bigotry tluTo may be in abund- iUH'o, V>ut tbat innocence which arises from isolation, fn>m the absence of the contaminating influences of fusil ion, frivolity, falsity, from the arts and humbug of liigh life, and from the demoralizing tendencies of social intermixtures, leading to deceit and dissipation, is seldom ft)und in rural districts recently occupied. For the harassing cares, the asj)critics, the trials of ttinpcr attending family migrations, the clearing of a wilderness, and the planting of a home are not such as foster single-mindedness, domestic religion, and the tenderer graces. As time went by, the moral and social condition of tlie mining towns greatly improveil. There was an industrious, orderly, and intelligent population, with wives and sisters; there were churches, and schools, and libraries, and newspapers; there were well-filled shops, and money enough to patronize them, but yet tliey were far from being like the clean ipiii't villages of New York or New England. The stoics were o|>eii on Sunday, and the saloons were better filled than the churches. The door of the harlot opened upon the most public thoroughfare, and from within mi^ht be heard by the passer-by the ribald oath and oltscene jest, and the chinking of the gambler's che< ks. <3f.l) ILLUSTRATIONS OF LIFE AND CHARACTER. II '! Houses, streets, and society, and life in general, ap- peared crude and raw, as indeed they were. Immigration, though decreasing in numbers, gained in quality. The character of its composition changed. Men now came to stay, bringing with them their families, their lares and penates, and sufficient money to establish themselves in some industry tending to the increase of conuncrce, or to the development of the country. The fitful and irrational passion which {)rompted earlier innnigration was less indulged in by ater comers, who sought success where success is usually found, in permanent plodding rather tiian in sudden acquirement. There were new avenues of industry opened, and plains and valleys were orna- mented with homes, made attractive by cultivation without and endearments within. Immiijration was wanted: but not that kind of immigration which characterized the first settlement of this country, and of many new countries ; not the lowest and vilest from the purlieus of cities, nor gamblers, nor ephemeral speculators; but earnest, honest, hard-working and law-abiding men and women, who should comeacrossthe plains with their ox-teams, their household goods, and their little ones; or cross- ing the water, should come to plant themselves in a new soil, and there remain and build up for them- selves and their posterity a new home. The daN's of the adventurers were past; in coming they fulfilled their destiny, acted their part in the great social up- heavals which, in their coalescing, outlined the config- urations of future institutions, gave boundaries to thought, and color and cHmax to ideas; but now tlu ir work was done, and the slower process of disintegia- tion and alligation must be accomplished by otlirr agencies. Three years had scarcely passed before it was dis- covered that California possessed charms as powerful to retain as to attract. It was a proud thing for the young villager to visit his old home with well-lined THE RETURNED CALIFORXIAN. ||t pockets, the admiration of the girls, the envy of his former companions, and the special object of interest of the old folks. It was grand and hertuc to be of California. Tamely to settle in the slow old home after participating in the glories of gold-digging, gambling, and free fighting wa.s out of the (|uestion. Nor were home and friends and occupation to the more enliglitened from the larger cities, ever again the same after a residence in San Francisco. Speculation and conmiercial pursuits after the old fashion oH'erod no attractions after having made three or four fortunes with lightning rapidity one after another, though they were swept away by fire as fast as made. So gradually the contemplated brief sojourn lengthened into a fixed residence, the family was sent ft>r, and tlicn apparently for the first time the husband and father opened his eyes to the iniquity around him and went to work in company with wife and daughter to bring about a better state of things. And this moral morass was reclaimed almost as speedily as it was formed. Healthy plants could not grow in a swamp of festering corruption The question was simply should the country be reclaimed to virtue or should vice prevail. And now the easy citizen and loose moralist becomes a reformer. If the country is worth making his home in — and do his best he can- not live away from it — then it is worth purifying and directing in its young growth. So public gambling is suppressed, prostitution driven from the more promi- h' nt thoroughfares, libraries are founded, churches l>uilt, and schools established; charitable institutions spring up, and the ocean air, as it passes through the streets of the city and over the bay, towaril the labor- ers in the valleys and in the mines, carries with it less of pollution and blasphemy than formerly ; a long breatJi of it may now be taken without suffocation. Enough sudden fortunes were made' enough rich deposits unlocked, to keep alive the flame of expecta- tion. Who knows, thought the patient unsuccessful i ILLUSTRATIONS OF LIFE AND CHARACTER. delver but that my turn may come next, and my lifo be illuminated by the roseate tints of gold, warm mellow metal, transcendent gold. Take for example the tunneling operations which in 1854-5 dissected every hill. Without capital, without means even to buy bread, four or six or ten men form themselves into a "ompany and coolly begin a work requiring years of irbor and thousands of dollars to complete. Buoyed by faith hi theories of world-building you hear them talking of ages past as other men talk of yesterday, reasoning of the time when channels of rivers wound round the lofty hills, when through a silent world tenantless streams rolled into a saltless sea. Thus strong in faith,hope feeds and clothes the phil- osophic miner for months and years. He lives and la- bors, he scarcely knows how. Time passes ; the end approaches; the last blow is struck; the point is reached which marks success or failure. Round him who washes the first i)rospcct-pan on reaching the end of the shaft or tunnel, agroup gathers breathless with anxiety. One with furrowed brow, and silver-sprinkled hair, and features fixed and immobile from care and toil, thinks of her who with him has started down the limitless decline, whose days will soon be past brightening with gold, and whose fate for life with that of others dear to him, the next five minutes may decide. An- other, a young sire, forgotten of his children, scours into a fiery glow the hairy skin above the heart, calls back his flitting fancy from the heaven of the old home, and peers into that pan of dirt as into an oracle. Yet another, little more than boy in years, though old enough in experience, delicately featured and boarinLf signs of good breeding, the small hands hardened, and fingers cramped by crowbar and pickhandle, yet not so stltf but they can renew by every steamer the story of unchanged love to her whose image fills his heart, ah t What means the product of that pan of dirt to him? SLAVES AND SLAVEHOLDERS. 3r>5 Less and less become the contents, until at last the result is known — two ouiicos they think it is, but call it an ounce, and their fortunes are made. Yet for ivery one who wins, let it be remembered, ten fail. And what means failure such as this? It means a slice (►f life thrown to the dogs, a measure of capabili- ties emptied upon a dunghill, capal)ilities of enjoying, (if improving; it means grayer hairs, deeper furrowed lineaments, and stiH'er limbs, with no results in ac(iui- sition worth living for. And besides this loss of time, of hope, of energy, it means bankruptcy, a long unpaid and unpayable score at the butcher's and a dozen other like places; it means in the man and all iiis affairs demoralization, if not Indeed dissipation and death. The absence of cant and fanaticism, and the liberalized views of the people on all subjects saved California from most of those festering disputations and argu- iii'-nts to which the question of slavery gave birth in other states of the confederacy. Here all the world met as on neutral ground, ignoring bootless argument (»ii topics foreign to their immediate purp(»se. Ques- tions of social policy were based for the most part on utilitarian ])rinciples ; doctrines and dogmas were left to those who had more leisure to discuss them. While m;uiy were in favor of the admission of California as a slave state, the majority were decidedly opposed to it; yet northerners were not disposed to quarrel with slaveholders for bringiny: with them their servants, and permitting them to work for their masters as long as they pleased. In the mining districts and in the towns tnere were many slaves, who of course could leave their masters at any moment, and did in tlie end leave them, yet for the time and midst the hubbub of eontonding events they preferred bondage to a sever- aiiec of old ties. In this pandemonium plunge, ten centuries of cul- ture and superstition were flung to the winds. There were new thoughts, new hearts, new dress, new IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 m IIIIM IIIIU m 1140 2.0 U III 1.6 V ^^ ^» c». .''I^ •;> Photographic Sciences Corporation ?^ WB?T MAIM STREET WEBSTI-^.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 A. ;:<? Sp. ILLUSTRATIONS OF LIFE AND CHAnACTER. speech, and new names. Conventionalisms, creeds, and politics were left at home in coming hither; here were new conditions for a fresh unfolding. New con- ventionalities arose, crude and strange, born of the necessities of the new society; for intellect, volition, and passion must of necessity develop form and fashion. Some trivial circumstance — anything which hap- pened to strike the fancy of the dominant spirits anionff his new associates — as likelv as not fastened upon each new comer an appellation which adliercd to him through life. Thus the dress of one suggested the name of Frippery Jim, the complexion of another that of Black Bill or Red Rover. Almost ev^ery mining camp had its Yank and Sandy, its Little Breeches, Pike, Boston, Mississippi, Mis- souri, Bricktop, and so on, names significant of pecu- liarity or place. There was no one to vouch for the truth of the stranger's statements concerning himself. It was scarcely to be supposed that he would give liis past character exactly according to the record; and who knew but that he might also have changed his name ? "Who are you?" in a tone by no means likely to ])lacc a timid man at his ease, was the first question. "Sturgis, Deacon Sturgis, they used to call me in Connecticut, where I came from." "You a deacon," with an ominous step forward, "Hell is full of sucli deacons 1" Another quick survey for a salient point, and a sanctimonious air seems predominant, which together with the report given of the new arrival de- termines the matter. "This is Pious Pete," and if the christened one was wise, he would gracefully ac- cept his new name, and invite all hands to partake of the new communion. San Francisco, as well as Athens, had its Diogenes. Philosopher Pickett was his name. Between Picket t and his Athenian prototype there existed certain dif- ferences incident in some measure to differences in age and country. For example, instead of rolling in A SAN FRANCISCO DIOGENES. 367 hot sand, and clasping snow-clad statues, the Califor- iiian philosopher sunned himself on the piazza of liis hotel, and drank iced juleps. His tub stood in the lobby of the legislature, where he practised the pro- fession of connnanding men. However at heart a cynic, the surface was charm- inirly bland. So it always was with Californian philosopliers. Of whatsoever school, the very first requisite was a free and easy demeanor. This, with always a readiness to drink at some one else's expense, and a hajipy faculty of impelling the hands of listeners into their pockets for the benefit of a bar-room com- jiany, were qualities in obtaining an ascendency over tlie mind more fruitful than flagellations, chastity, })()verty, or any species of antics or asceticism. (jffice-seekers were not slow to perceive that Phil- osoplier Pickett was endowed with qualities of great value to every one except himself It is enough fov a jthilosophcr to be a philosopher. The moment he seeks wealth or political preferment the pedestal crunil)les, and he becomes like other men, earthy. Once a candidate for a legislative clerkship, noticing the extended acquaintance and easy influence of the pliilosopher, determined to approach him. The little man was courteous, and verj"" free with his half dollars about bars and billiard-tables. In due time the appli- (ant for office broached the subject nearest his heart, and begged the philosopher's influence. Pickett turned to him in apparent surprise, as if the man's every movement for the past three days had not dis- covered his ambition, and straighteninii his slim fiijure to its full height, fixed upon hmi a pair of glittering yray eyes, and spake : " Sir," said he, " I am the last man outside of Plato's n{)ublic from whom you should solicit aid. Should I advocate your claim, the meudjcrs would suspect you lionest; and surely you nmst know that an honest niiui stands no more chance before a California legis- lature than a cat in hades without claws." The laa- .v^,sl.-,,F if 'V 368 ILLUSTRATIONS OF LIFE AND CHARACTER. guage of Californian philosophers, it will be observed, is more forcible than elegant. " If you want office," continued Pickett, "cheat at poker, brawl o' nights, murder a man or two, show your breadth at bribery, — anything rather than display such weak imperfec- tions as honor, honesty, and good character. Our legislators will none of these." Many a walking romance, many an epic in flaunt- ingr robes or rags has wandered these hills. Far be- yond the limits of human habitations, on the top of a mound surrounded by what was called the Doomed valley, there once lived a personage known as the Old Man of the Mountain. No one knew his name, or who he was, or whence he came. He was absent all day, no one knew where, returning regularly at night, and he was never seen to cook or eat anything. The scattered cooking utensils appeared never to have been used by him. Finally he vanished as mysteriously as he had come. How many hermits have walked the streets of this strange city, and how many hermitages have there been in unfurnished rooms and boai'ding- house garrets 1 In common with men true to themselves, the intel- ligent, the honest, the faithful of every nation, California became the rendezvous of prize-fighters, thieves, gamblers, and murderers. Convicts came over from Australia, bold desperadoes of the order of Saint Giles, and outlaws from various parts. It was the paradise of the disgraced, the bankrupt, the de- faulter, the felon. But happily these were a short- lived race, and there was enough of a different element at first to leaven the mass, and finally, in the shape of vigilance committees, to purify it. Then there were numberless intermediate and less influential grades, such as would-be leaders of cliques, who conceived it their mission to enlighten mankind and exalt them- selves; exquisites, gentlemen by profession, and by profession only, whose feathers were speedily plucked by humbug-haters, who grew apace in the congenial UNITY IN VARIETY. 369 atmosphere ; the excessively prim and puritanical, who when they fell never stopped mitil they reached bot- tom; godless young men, of rich and honorable parent- age, who preferred the woollen sliirt and unkempt beard of the miner with immediate independence to the more sedate and less venturesome life of plodding ros[)ectability, with the crowning honor of church dcaconship or bank director to gild its latter days. Notwithstanding the diversity of character here displayed, diverse in thought, customs, beliefs and tongues, there was almost immediately apparent — in tlie Caucasian portion of the society at least — a re- markable homogeneity and oneness in adaptation to the new order of things. Strangers to each other's faces, to each other's hearts, to each other's idiosyn- ( rasies, come from strange lands into a land strange to all, and there at once fit themselves to strange and improvised ways never before heard of by any. The facility with which the several elements coalesced may be attributed to two causes. First, although the up- rising was general and proceeded from nations distant and diverse, the exodus was one of certain homogene- ous elements, no less individual and distinct than other migrations of peoples. Human nature the world over is framed on one model, and the component parts of au individual society, though widely scattered origin- ally, may be collected and fused into recognised metal wliich shall pass current in all societies. Certain qualities and classes throughout all the contributing nations, were alike touched by the knowledge of the gold discovery, and rose up in answer to one common impulse. Secondly, being thus brought together obe- dient to common promptings for the accomplishment, eacli for himself, of a common object, there was a sympa- thy of interests and a connnunity of thought and action never displayed by characteristics and nationalities so varied and extended since the crusades. The fact is, so- ciety here was at once so unique and abnormal, that it was impossible for anyone thrown into it not to con- • i I Iff >s Cal. Int. I'oc. 24 p 870 ILLUSTRATIONS OF LIFE AND CHARACTER. form in some measure to its demands; and this necessity, which hes at the foundation of all progressional law, threw over the moral and physical aspect of the peo- ple the same general tint. All had C(mie hither t<> achieve gold; sudden acquisition of enormous weaitli was the one idea, and all those social fictions which connnon sense vainly seeks a reason for were thrown to the winds. High and low, educated antl ignorant, polished and rude, are all confounded in an all-absorb- in<>- fraternitv of labor. Under the woolen sh.irt and grizzled beard the former dandy may scarcely be dis- tinguished from the blacksmith, or the master from his man. How sadly has the world degenerated ! See that ragged blear-eyed tailor. Twenty years ago he was a white-shirted, shaved and nmstachioed gambler, with his monte bank, his mistress, and his mule, all the gayest of the gay. The songbirds were not liohter-lieartedthanhe,ashe went home in the mornini; and turned into bed for a sleep after a successful nigl it of it. Then how professions have changed and mixetl themselves up since then. There are mechanics turned preachers; preachers turned politicians; edi- tors turned lawyers and lawyers editors; a whilom bartender now practises medicine, and yonder scrawny- featured, shaggy-headed individual in Sam Slick cos- tume takes photographs — very bad ones — in the mornings, and sits upon the judicial bench dealing- out justice, too often as blurred as his pictures, in tlie afternoon. Dram-sellers have become millionaires, and millionaires and paupers alike have passed down the dance of death to the time-racket of delirium tre- mens. Ancient washerwomen are drawn through the streets in satin-lined carriages by caparisoned horses, and attended by liveried servants, while these who have known better days sit pale and sad of heart sewing from early till late for bread. Yet, with all their Acherons and rivers of sorrow rolling over them, conscious always of sowing hero THE LAND AND THE MEN. 371 liun the eternal seeds of misery, despair and death ever gnawing at tlieir heart-strings, tlie unsuccessful ones carrv a bold, brave front, treating lightly misfortune. Melpomene's tragic face is wreathed in laughing ivy. They are not the men to groan over sickness and mis- fortune. They toil on, bankrupt in everything but li()])(\ doul)t contending with expectation as the pick, blow after blow, shiks among the boulders, with no more thought of giving up than the gambler who loses a bet. Their life has been a ha [>py -go-lucky one ; every bh)w they struck was a wager. No won- der tlicy used to bet at the gaming tables, it being so iiiucli easier to ofamble thus than to bet a hard dav's work against the ten dollars that tlu^y would get or iii>t get. Thus we see how money which comes freely tVoiii river bank or faro bank would go freely ; we see Low it was that prodigality would follow so closely ujion the heels of avarice; we see liow infidelity springs from Impulse, until only one prayer is left to tile miner. "Give us, O God, with the appetite, the ijold to satisfv it. In a general analysis of character prevailing in Californian societv in its nascencv, we must not lose siojit of its composite and heterogenous qualities. Each individual member of societv was a particle, independent of and in a manner antagonistic to every otlier particle. Notwithstanding the general homo- geiieitv of material, there were antagonisms of inter- est, of disposition, of morals. Final concretion had not yet set in. There was then an absence of those (Tu|ue-formations, political coalescino's, and little society or\ stalizations which have since become so marked a fratiire in the connnunitv; and when orixanizations came, one of the first was a banding of villians for ])inposes of depredathm. Every honest man's mind was intent upon its own aftairs, and dwelt littl<> on tlios(^ affecting others or the public weal, except where s;if('ty or greater gain made closer connnunion neces- sary. All were strangers to each other; of their past ' 372 ILLUSTRATIONS OF LIFE AND CHARArTER. lives tliere was no record nor current report ; men of tastes and habits the most opposite, such as the phil- osopher and the charlatan, the missionary and mur- derer, the merchant and the highwayman, were forced together in one incongruous mass. Nevertheless, there were traits common to all of them, promhient among which were extraordinary energy^ and acute- ness. It was a land of romance, the natural atmo.?- phere of youth and inexperience, a land devoid of the dull sameness that overshadowed the lands all had left behind. It was curious to see how proud were the success- ful Californians of the country. The man wlio had spent but three months here was entitled to the honor of calling himself a Californian — on returning iiome. Whatever his opinion of California while there, and howsoever nmch he had lonjjed for home, once bark among his friends and words could not express his admiration for the land and the people. It was tlie only place fit to live in, the only place where peopli^ knew how to do business, the only place where mcii filled the ideal of manhood, and as a matter of course he was going back. In everything Californian lie took a keen interest. First of all he was proud of himself for having gone there, proud of the old clothes and shaggy beard and gold dust which he had brouglit back, proud that his eyes had been opened so as t(» take in a view of the world. He regarded with pity his old comrades who still plodded along at the rate of a dollar or two a day. Never since the great Egyptian exodus have tlie Hebrew ra«e found a soil and society better suited to their character and taste, better adapted to their pros- perity and propagation than California. All nations having come hither, shades of color, of L»elief, pecu- liarities of physique, of temper and habit were less distinctly marked. Gold was here, and in common with the gentiles the Jew loved gold. Foi' the rest, all I THE HOME OF THE ISRAELITE. 373 all he asked was to be let alone, and here that bless- iiiuf was granted him more fully than in any country he had ever seen. Gold and golden o[)portuniti('S, money-making and freedom of thought, speech, and action, these were here, and these were the Jews' eartlily paradise. So Jeshurun waxed fat and kicked. He did not love work, so he carefully kept out of the mines; but in every mining town was found his clothing store, his fruit and trinket shop, his cheap John establish- ment. And in the cities he built him a synagogue, ill id warehouses upon the streets devoted to niercjian- dise, and dwellings in the choicest suburbs. Hotels and watering-places were filled with his presence; secret societies felt his influence; but otherwise, save ill his trafficking, he held aloof from gentile associa- tions. Liberalized by environment the Jews cared little f( )r the tenets of their faith ; many of them forsook Ood; few closed their shops on a Saturday; some sacrificed unto new gods; few took to themselves the daughters of gentiles to wife. Nevertheless they j'et retained their ancient rites, which proved as bands holding them in one brotherhood. True they shared with the Asiatic and the Ameri- canized Spaniard the antipathy of the dominant race, with this difference : the antipathy manifested toward tlic Jew was perpetual and unattended by violent demonstrations, while repugnance to the Chilean and Chinaman broke out into occasional bloody encounters. Ill this inspiring of dislike they excelled all other lieople ; though they did not seem to take it greatly to heart, and disliked as evenly and serenely in return, ^[oney was the humanizing bond however; Christian and Jew loved money. Here, as elsewhere, they mingled freely with the pet)ple, more freely, perhaps, than anywhere else since the days of Abraham, though they mixed with them as httle as ever. Though crafty and cunning, and 374 ILLUSTRATIONS OF LIFE AND CHARACTER. oftentimes dishonest in their dealings, they were not more so than otlier men, and they usually manajjjod to escape detection and punishment. Seldom a Jew was seen in jail, or in a mob, or intoxicated, tliough upon the slightest pretext many of them would fail in business, and compromise with their creditors. Like the Chinese, they lived and accumulated wealth where more lax or lavish gontil !S starved. This was to their honor, and to the shame of the spendthrifts. Often in early times in mhiing districts, for«jettini; their fathers and their fathers' faith, thev drank, and gambled, and raced horses, and swore, and frequented houses of prostitution. Then they were fine fellows, and the noble American miner voted tlie Jew as good as the white man. Then the finger of scorn was removed, and ostracism no longer talked of in the charmed circles of commerce. The Pike county man — which term was finally ap- plied indiscriminately to emigrants from the wi!stoni states — could not mingle with the mixed po[>ulation of California without becoming in some degree tonod down: tlie angles of the New Englander were in like manner rounded ; even the Jew, eschewing old clotlies, was often less mercenary than his neighbor, and at- tained a fair degree of manhood. Indeed, there are many Jews in California to-day who are far above tlie average American or European in liberality and higli- minded public spirit. But notwithstanding the tincture given to society by the Englishman, the Frenchman, the German, Irish, Scotch, Swiss, Spaniard, Italian, and even the Chinaman, the Anglo-American has ever been the dominant mind. An intermixture of European, Asiatic, and African elements alone never would have made a Califomian. It may have been a staid English colony like Australia, or the field of unprogressive fiery revolutions, like Spanish America, but it never would have experienced that season of speculative energy which has driven it so swiftly on- ward. The European is sedate, conservative, method- m ABSENCE OF (JOVEllXMEN'T. :iT5 ical, plodding, and contented ; the Anijjlo- American is versatile, venturesome, cuiming, dissatisfied, and cap- tious, California, naturally, with her sudden and wonder- ful appeariniLj, demanded innnediate recognition from tlio United States government as a full-fledged state. Was it not right and proper that she should bo so recognized, and that the mantle of })rotection and the benefit of law should be extended over her? And 3'et, month after month of the year of l(S4t), she waited, now buoyant with hope, now sunk in despair, wondering if ever the time would come wlien party bickerings on the eastern side of the llocky Mountains would give place to the inter- ests of the people. A most anomalous position was that in which the inhabitants of California found themselves. They were part of a great nation, ar.d yet were without government ; a country rich in min- eral and agricultural wealth was theirs, but they had only a limited control of it. Regulations for the ex- traction of its treasures were wanting. Titles to ag- ricultural lands, which nmst be in^proved at the set- tlers* risk or not at all, were also wanting, and the national congress had failed to provide them. By transient visitors, and writers on California, nmeli more was said than was ever understood of the peculiarities of Californian society. As a rule phil- osopliers and wise men coming hither can learn fully as much as they can teach. Though they can tell us many things we do not know, we can tell them many things we know, as well as many things we do not know, things they never met or are likely to meet elsewhere. The appearance which California pre- sented to them, with frequent exaggerations and epithets denouncing all, was early heralded b}- hare- brained writers in the various languages, and Califor- nia made to appear in the most diabolical light, giving this as the normal state of American society. There were always present alarmists and croakers ii i <| ■; H A 1- m ii ^ffKBii i-'/ltBHffl'M > '■'■■ 1 . 'iln 1 876 ILLUSTIIATIONS OF UFE AND CTIARACTER. enough, who saw nothing but disastrous torniinatlons of a social organization begun on such a low and sor- did basis; who were always pointing to haunts of li- centiousness, to drinkinjr and gambling saloons, to ballot-box stuffing, public debt, political wickedness, and vigilance conunittees, to police reports and all the dismal paraphernalia of vice, as if these were Califor- nia and the basis of Californian society. Thus it was thai, for a quarter of a century in foreign parts and on our eastern seaboard, California was but inji)erfectly understood. After all the toning down and polishing up which society was destined here to undergo, in the minds of the distant nmltitude we were still the same lawless, godless crew that enacted the Inferno of 1849. And we asked how louix we were to suffer the stijjjma and lie under the cloud ; how long our elastic eneri^ies must tuni and overturn before our foreign friends could see us as we were ? We asked the question in the fifties and received our answer in the eighties. In this continued mi.scon ception of our character we may, however, more fully recognize how deep was the impression made by the discovery of gold. Roused to its remotest corners by the mill-race diggers* shout, the world in one glance fixed in its stolid brain the shocking nightmare that followed, a i there the impression remained. And in truth enough even now remains of the old sulphuric smells and pitchy infirmities to modify somewhat our pride ; but in that great day when our friends across the Atlantic and across the Pacific shall have madi^ white all their robes, even as those of the daughters of -zEger and Rana, may not the children of pioneers, and the survivors of the early pandemonium hope to have achieved in their eyes a change of raiment? We have much to say of life in California ; not so much of death ; and yet all Californians die. In early times rum, exposure, and disease not being sufficient, they all used to carry revolvers to kill each other with. Ask them why they carried the man-killing A COMMUNITY OF rLAfK-IlUNTERS. ^71 iniplenuMits, aiul tlioy would say to <l(f('ii(l tlicir lives. Y"t ill n-ality the anna which the miners displayetl on all occasions for protection, impliedly from their com- panions, only invited attack and added to tluir danger. Though they thou<;ht, that like the belt of Thor, the Scanilinavian war-god, these implements doubled their strenjjfth whenever they put them on, in reality they were weakened by them to that same dej^ree. They could die pretty well, die coolly, die with their hoots on, as they called violent death, but theirs was not the coolness of wisdom and philoso])hy. Theirs was not the death of Socrates, for example. "Crito," he said, as the circle of the subtle })oison narrowed slt)wly round his heart, "Crito, I ov/e a cock to Aa- dopius; will you remember to pay the debt?" "The debt shall be paid," said Crito; "is there ajjything else ?" And so he died, the- ' being his hijt words. There was a class of young mea who came to Cali- fornia in those days, by no means a small one, that commanded our special sympathy. They were mostly from schools and colleges, of fine abilities and hiii^h l)romise, well read, and many of them leaving pleasant homes and affectionate friends. Possessing a high- strung, delicate organization, their young ambition big with enthusiasm, they came hither with mhids half formed, and with vague ideas as to their future. They only knew that here of all places in the world was their opportunity; that in this arena there was for every man a career, and distincticm to him who had the nerve to win it. They felt in themselves the com- pressed energy of youth, the smothered fire of yearn- ing aspiration. Lured by golden hopes, they joined tlie El Dorado argonauts and came to California. On reaching San Francisco, they found thousands of others, who, like themselves, had landed without ]iionoy and without friends, and were looking for something to do. The professions were over-crowded, and all the avenues of trade thronired. '., 't 11'' V 378 ILLUSTRATIONS OP LIFE AND CHARACTER. One of these waifs would start out in the mominor and \^isit all the law offices ; then he would hang around the courts and public offices ; or he would go from shop to shop begging a situation. Only give him something to do, something on which to feed the fire (jf his ambition, and no matter how hard the work or how small the pay he would gladly under- take it. Give him a trial ; he was apt and honest, and he must soon have work or starve. Day after day, from morning till night, and every day for weeks and months, with heart in his throat, and big shame- faced tears now and then slipping out from under his eye-lashes, his very soul sinking within him, he would make his mournful rounds. All was life and bustle, and merry money-making; fortune's favorites jostled him as they hurried past ; only he with stifled long- ings was doomed to walk the streets like a beggar and an outcast. Yet not alone, for there were hun- dreds of others like him, every steamer emptying out a fresh supply, and the merchants could not furnish places for twenty applicants a day. Often a hundred of these sad earnest faces might have been seen stand- ing at one time, at seven o'clock in the morning, be- fore a store waiting for the door to open in order to answer an advertisement for a bookkeeper. At length heart-sick and disgusted they would scatter off, some finally to do the work of porter or day- laborer, or to drive a cart or milk- wagon, or to work on a farm ; others, and by far the larger number, go- ing to the mines. There the wanderer, standing in the cold running snow-stream of the Sierra, working in the river-beds or on the canon-side until his limbs are immb and sharp rheumatic pains shoot througli his shoulders, at night tossing in sleepless unrest on his hard bed, or gazing in heartful self-pity on the stars thinking of home, with crushed enthusiasm frets his days and nights away, at morning wishing it were night and a j night wishing the morning were come, brooding over his lost estate and the unrev/ardcil EVER-FLITTING FORTUNP- W^ drudgery which has befallen him, over visions of departed promise that rose so flush in his youth- ful manhoixl, now all fled, leaving him but the one hope of final rest. So time slowly drags along, while fortune flits before. Talk to the unfortu- nate of bearing up, of the folly of despair, of the greater difficulties conquered by the heroic struggles of others, and he will point you to years of unrequited toil, to the bright yellow ignis fatutis that ever eludes his grasp, to the many times when undismayed he rose after a fall, and applied himself with new energy to new tasks, until bruised in heart and bleeding he can rise no more. He asks not your sympathy ; for his failure he makes no defence ; he will never return to his friends humiliated; leave him alone to die! It is sad to see dead hope entombed in a sound body, to see the vigorous mind cramped as in a cruel prison-house, and the guide of young manhood brought low. To him who was thrown upon himself in youth, and accustomed to the rough cares of life, it makes little difference where or how his lot is cast. If he cannot be cook he can be scullion, line his stomach with satisfying kitchen grease and be happy. But with those who have been carefully guarded in their youth it is not so. Crush the enthusiasm in an am- bitious sensitive heart, put out the fire that drives tlic machinery, and you may bury what is left. Work is not the well-bred vounoj man's misfortune; with an object he will work his fingers to the bone, he will work his brain until the veins on his hot forehead swell almost to bursting ; he will leave behind him dead half a score of your mechanical drudges at Work. Poverty is not his misfortune; to be well housed, well fed, and well clothed are trifles to him who has a purpose in hand. His misfortune is to have his intuitions stifltxl, his talents choked, his mind withered for want of development; this it is that makes him sour and misanthropic, all worth living for, growth, development, culture, an intellectual life, m m II I ^^1 ILLUSTRATIONS OF LIFE AND CHARACTER. a nobler manhood, or the hope of attaining these, forever lost. Perhaps it would be well for such a one to ask himself if it were not possible to find hap- piness in something short of the full realization of his original plans. Success often springs from failure ; at all events, it lies in the discipline wrought by noble efforts rather than in the end of wealth and luxury. Many a heart- sick wretch in San Francisco has wandered over these sand-hills, out around by the Presidio hills to the Golden Gate bluffs and the ocean, and there gazing forth on the broad waters, or watching the tumbling waves come in and break in silvery surf at his feet, thought of the dead past, of blasted hopes, and a black future; thought in self-pitying woe of home and the loved ones there; thought of the great gulf of separation here, and the dismal blank of the hereafter. " Why, O God ! why is it?" he would ask. " Dost thou delight in breeding men to misery f CHAPTER XVI. AMONG THE MINERS. Mensura juris vis erat. — Lucan. The miners of the flush times, their characteristics and quality, their idiosyncrasies and temper, are as far beyond description as the wind and weather of CaUfornia, where the twenty sides of twenty thousand lulls, and the twenty turns of twenty thousand ravines have each an individual climate. Twenty life-times might be spent and twenty volumes written before the story of one mining-camp in all its ramifications could bo told. The story of one mining-camp was the story of mankind; and to follow it after death was the story of the gods. Each man of them should be enriched with heaped- up grains of gold brought down by the streams of the Sierra, as Croesus was enriched by the golden sands of l^actolus. Soon many of the camps could boast their church and schoolhouse, and temperance hotel, and express office atid bank; the scattering huts and cabins, and sj)lit-board one and two-story houses, and squares of shabby shanties, with a block or two edged on one side with red brick or rough stone stores, all cluster- ing beside swift-running streams, and the now stumpy hillsides, and taking on the dignity of town. As out of rough stones a smooth even wall is made, so from these sometime uncouth characters, these hairy and woollen-shirted men, were formed staid (381) ,1;: ii 882 AMONG THE MINERS. communities, with happy liomos and virtuous environ- ment. Their reading was mostly of tlie English Reynolds type, and the Frencli Faublas' Lia'mms danfjereuses order, "wliere," as Lamartine says, "vice parodied virtue, and riotous liberty, love." Their books were not always as full of charming villainy even as Rous- seau's Confessions, Alexander the Great, manslayer, was a small man; Alexander Small, miner, was a great man. Anyone with men enough could conquer any nation or kill any number ; it requires no quality of greatness to do this, and surely no one but a fool would drink himself to death ; but I do not know that any great man pre- tends to deny that he is a fool. On the other hand, he who accomplishes nmch with little; he who can deny himself, rule himself, is greater than he who can only riile others. Alexander the Great had ambition of which no medicine on earth could physic him; but force was greater than ambition, greater than all glory and all gods. Alexander the Great, dram-drinker, man-killer, and gambler in ordinary to his Satanic majesty, the world has known these two or three thousand years; Alexander Small, gold-digger to tlie gods, and the greater of the two, the world has never known at all. Many great men have been underrated during tluir lives, many small men have been overrated; many small in some things and great in others have been rated small or great in everything. Ralston,* as the California bank's president, sitting behind other men's millions, was great, as Crcesus was great; Ralston, ;i week later, dead, self-drowned, out of all his troubles, was a small man indeed. Evil results sometimes flow from good qualities ; some are generous because they are weak, and some are weak because they are generous. The sweep- ing winds of passion palsj- the heart, jaundice the eye, and dry of its freshness all the gentler qualities of GLADDENING GOLD. 383 their nature. Sometimes it became necessary for every member of the community to watch every other member, lest by some evil act the gods would be of- fended and send down vengeance on all. Nevertheless, out about this wilderness, among comrades, partners as tliey frequently called eacli other, in times of sickness and death there were deeds performed such as hew mountains into statues in honor of the dbers, while sea and solemn pines unite to sing tlicir praises. And grotesque as niiglit be the miner's burial as all knelt round the grave, old-time habit and the liberal potations drank in honor of the departed, aiding their genuflexions, there was as much heart as iu l)rass bands or priestly palaverings. Thousands tliere were who came and saw, but did not conquer. Coming for wool they went homo shorn, l^et the clouds write in dismal sliadows on the red earth now abandoned of this swarthy society — fiiiniKS, we have been 1 Complaint was of no avail ; roast beef, plum pudding, and chanqiagne were not with tliem in reason. Verily, it seemed if ever in this bustling, breathing world times were out of joint, it was these Californian times of 184D. Wickedness prospered; virtue and merit appeared to be the ene- mies rather tlian the friends of fortune. Many a sparkling mountain stream has proved to many a lusty digger an Acheron, a river of sorrow. Ifis destiny had seemed to him as surely predeter- mined as was that of Achilles, foretold by his goddess mother. Stay at home and a long life of inglorious ease crowned by wealth and progeny awaited liini ; go. and a glorious death should swiftly follow a career of victory. And now, round his bronzed visage, coarsely streaked with corroding care, hung grizzled locks wildly matted as by the heavy pressure of inexorable environment u[)()n the brain. Under the Sierra's feet is gold enough for others but none for me. Bushels of it from all parts pile themselves up at the metropolis, and I 1 384 AMONG THE MINERS. thence is scattered to every quarter. Sent to the east, sent to the west, sent to Europe, to Asia, there to gladden thousands, why should not some of it gladden me by gladdening mine? There is gold enough for others but none for me. I have drank of Acheron, let me now drink of Lethe. My past let me consign to oblivion, and regenerate once more take my place among the honorable of the earth. Brinij forth the • • • t • A divining-rod, the witch-hazel of the epidemic demono- pathy, and let its subtleties become so clearly percep- tible to the sublimated brain of the bearer, that the arch-witch gold may be found, aye, gold I aye, gold 1 Hundreds went mad. Lunatics roamed the streets at large ; indeed, it sometimes seemed as if all were lunatics. Horrible is the disordered laugh of mad- men and fiends ; and so is the hollow mournful mirth of rioting starvelings, making dismal with their half- ghostly orgies the lonely canon. But they were not all as insane as they seenied. Should any object dear to them be laid in their pathway, they would turn aside the evil influences of their avarice or morality, as Ulysses, who affected madness to escape the Trojan campaign, turned aside his plough when the infant Telemachus was laid in the furrow. Prostrate in blank despair, oblivious from drink, or battling undismayed, the life struggle still continues. Walk round the arena, pass by the fortunate — they are the exceptions, and can care for themselves — but glance at some who have fallen. The old white-whis- kered bell-boy who answers your summons at the hotel was once a wholesale grocer, with a business of six millions a j'^ear ; that waiter in the restaurant was 6nce colonel in the Austrian service ; an aide-de-camp to Larmorcier hires himself to a paper-hanger; there is a doctor driving a dtay, here a graduate of Trinity college, Dublin, tending bar, and so on. As the development of the country increased its classical abnormities, with some of its greatest channs diminished, and with the glamour of unreality origin- ONE OF SINCLAIR'S FANEGAS. 385 ally thrown over all removed, pioneers began to look back upon it as a dream. Time rolls on, and between the river banks and wooded hills smile little garden spots, enclosing neat white cottages, to which distance lends the flavor of the old-time home, where wives so long and anx- iously waited the return of their rough darlings. And here they are still, far from the land of their birth, youth's hopes perished, hastening to untimely graves. Hatefully shines the new-minted metal, the price of conscience, of love, the reward of life's failure 1 Slumber now is wooed not by the soft low tones of wife and children; the care-heated brain is soothed not by the magic touch of fairy fingers, nor is the roused heart calmed by the uplifting and out-going influences of family prayer and praise. Mingled with the coyote's howl comes the sound of revelry from the adjacent camp, while the panting river and the sigh- ing wood sing their lonely lullaby. And to the man of merchandise in the busy city's marts arise visions of home, of the native village, of friends beloved, of childhood scenes ; rocks, hills, and wood; meadow, orchard, and the clear running stream; garden and barn; pets and playmates, — these, and a thousand like things, haunt them in their leisure hours, intrude themselves during the hot perplexities of busi- ness, and mingle with their midnight dreams. Time was when there were hours, blessed hours, uncursed by any burning desire. Carelessly standing in one corner of Sinclair's house, in the autumn of 1848, half covered by the old lumber wliich had been thrown upon it, was a fanega measure full of gold, all but half an inch. Now a fanega holds a bushel and a half. One day came along Patrick McChristian, happy in charitable peace with the world, being himself in those days a prince among the diggers, for his pockets were always stuffed with his several thousands. Cal. Int. Poc. 25 386- AMONO THE MINERS. "What ye got there?" demanded Pat, as his sharp eye caught the glorious color beneath the rubbisli. " O, nothing much," Sinclair replied, "my men brought it in." "Ain't ye afraid somebody will steal it ? " asked Pat, as he threw off the articles that covered it, and took a long and deep look into it. " I don't lie awake nights about it," Sinclair said. "You may have it, Pat, if you will carry it away ; yes, if you will lift it but three inches from the ground." Sinclair was a man of his word, but McChristian knew well enough the feat to be impossible. Nevertheless, he could not resist the temptation of plunging his hands into it, of stirring it up and smoothing it down, and finally, just for the fun of it, of taking a tug at it. "Only three inches from the ground," again Sinclair quietly re- marked, "and it is yours, so help me." Pat lifted, straining himself into seriousness, strain- ing until he saw sky-rockets and shooting stars. It was of no use. The measure clave to the ground as if riveted there. It would not leave it a hair's breadth, and Pat was obliged to go forth and content himself with increasing his fortune by slower degrees. The quality of their fellowship was rare indeed. Not more singular and hearty in verse was the wel- come Horace gave Lucius Varius, his friend and fellow-student at Athens, and the fellow-soldiers at Philippi, than that given in reality by these rough digging men to a returned comrade. " Pour till it touch the shining goblet's rim, Care-drowning inasaic; let rich ointments flow From amplest concha I No measure we shall know I What 1 shall we wreaths of oozy parsley trim Or simple mjrrtle T Whom will Venus send To rule our revel? Wild my draught shall be As Thracian Bacchanals', for 'tis sweet to me To lose my wits, when I regain my friend." Under the shaggy uncombed locks were finely tempered brains puzzling over the body's destiny; and beneath gray woolen shirts were hearts, some large some small, beating to the measures now of celestial songs and now of Abaddon's wing-flaps. THE GOLDOMETER SUPERSTITION. 387 Behold the bummer I An unlearned man of modest bearing, but fathomless cheek. Or if he be a legal or political bummer we call him brick. He, too, may sicken you with nauseathig words, or be as quarrel- some, indolent, insolent, vicious, gambling, drink- ing, fighting, and dandified as any member of the Macaroni club that cursed Vauxhall gardens. This man never did a day's work hi his life, never did a useful thing, never earned an honest dollar, never drew an honest breath. What he eats is not his own ; his own flesh and blood does not belong to him. And when invited to partake, such invitation being the ever-present hope and aim of earthly existence, he takes from his mouth his tobacco quid, as the ser pent vomits its venom before drinkmg for fear of poisoning itself. The godless miners were not more free from super- stition than papist or puritan fanatic. Once a Texan charlatan, a tall, broad-shouldered, sallow-faced, livid- looking fellow, Fletcher by name, dropped down on Murphy's, and the worldly wise and cunning of that camp were caught as easily as mediajval Christians. Ho professed to have discovered or invented a gold- onietcr which would direct the possessor unfailingly to gold deposits, and enable him to trace unerringly tlie precious vein through all its dips and curves and angles, backing his statement by an offer to bet one hundred dollars that in ten minutes he would find a purse of gold hidden within the limits of an acre of ground. No one cared to waste time over such trifling ; surely he should know of what he was talk- ing; show them where the undug gold lay, and he should have his pay. Every man there had indulged in some little pet necromancy of his own conjuring which had cost far more than this ; they could but lose. And so the Texan wizard bled them. Taking his magical instrument, which consisted of a metal- ninunted wooden pointer split at one end so as to take in the man's waist, he proceeded to the diggings be- "j| '.IP.'i » H AMONG THE MmKRS. yond the town, followed by a concourse of eager ex- pectants. Arrived on the spot, after certain incanta- tory preliminaries which would have put to blush a Kadiak Shaman, he began to grope about as if in darkness, then suddenly starting up he struck out a zigzag course as if following a vein. Round the sjmr of the hill and down the opposite slope, over claims and through gardens the talisman-directed Texan went, while the crowd rushed for pick and shovel with which to mark out the line and unearth tlie treasure. Down they went, digging with a will, five, ten, fifteen feet, and no vein was struck. Deeper said the sa^e, and a crevice twenty-five feet in deptii, whi^h let the sunlight strike subterranean waters, was opened without result. A sense of swindle began to steal over those diggers and tliey went for the Texan ffoldometer man. But the end was not yet. Select- mg one from their number he seated him on an empty whiskey keg, and began to mesmerize him and breathe into him the spirit of prf)phecy. Shortly the spirit- ualized miner began to talk, and he informed his eager listeners that gold was surely there, but that it lay ten feet deeper than they had yet dug. Satisfied by tliis voice from another world, they continued their work, but now with much greater difficulty, for besides be- ing obliged to hoist their dirt they must pump out the water which constantly flowed in upon them, so tliat before they had reached the required depth the Texan had ample time to make his escape. It was in the winter of 1849-50. Two men whose claims had yielded, every working-day during tlie winter not less than $140, and from that to $320, abandoned it early in the spring in order to hunt f<»r something better. After a dangerous and fatiguing tramp over the yet covered snow-ridges, spending sev- eral months turning the channel of a stream which yielded nothing, they turned their faces backward and entered the nearest mining camp, without a dollar, and with nothing that would buy bread, unless it was a WORTH AND WORTHLESSNESS. 389 double-barrel sbot gun. The weapon was worth fifty dollars, but no one would buy it ; the traders had stacks of old guns, which they could not dispose of, ai»d no one just then happened to want such an arti- cle. Their case was becoming desperate ; night was coming on, and the empty stomachs called loudly for food. Taking the gun in his hand, one of them stepped up before a store and called out, "Who'll give me five dollars for this gun?" One smiled, another shook his head, no one wanted it. At length the store-keeper reached out his hand and said, " Let me look at it." After examining it, said he, " I'll play you five dollars worth of pork against the gun." ** Agreed," replied the impecunious miner. The miner won. "Now I'll play you five dollars worth of flour against the gun." The miner agreed, played, and won again. This was too much for the speculative proclivities of the crowd, and one of the lookers-on immediately bantered the lucky owner of the gun to play him five dollars in money against it, which was promptly accepted and Wf)n. "Now boys," said the miner, again holding up the gun, "I've made a raise; that let's me out; any of } u can have the gun that wants it." Of course no one took it, and the miner then rising and picking ii]) his pork, flour, money, and the gun he could not sell, but which had, nevertheless, served him a most fortunate turn, joined his comrade, when the two hastened to satisfy their hunger. Some appeared blindly to stumble from one piece of good fortune upon another. A nasal-voiced New Englander in 1849, thought he would try California in a small way for a short time. So buying a ticket for $395, he sailed lazily down into the tropics and crossed the Isthmus. That, however, was a dull busi- ness ; besides he was making nothing. Arrived at Panamd, he scratched his head, went to bed, and rose ill the morning and rubbed his eyes. Then he went out and sold the remainder of his ticket which yps to I' 'II 1' ;!N 300 AMONG THE MINERS. carry him to San Francisco for $700, hired himself as butcher to the steward of the banie steamer for ^ 1 00 the passage, bought a pick in San Francisco, and fol- lowed the crowd to the mines, turned up gold the first blow he struck, took out $9,000 in the course of a few days, sold his claim for $2,000, and returned home to marry Hannah and set his traps for a deaconship. Probably there never existed a community more prodigal in their generosity, and more munificent in their charities than the fortune-hunters of California. It is nothing new, it is nothing paradoxical, to sec lavish expenditures attending successful ventures ; and often it is that the more men risk for money the freer they will spend it. With Spanish conquerors human life was held in low esteem as compared with gold, which once obtained was flung about as a thing of little value. Winning gold with sword, shovel, or cards, does not breed economy. Few camps at the first were without their quarrel- some cut-throats, who, like Achilles, preferred an early death with glory to a long and quiet fameless life. It was the assassin's paradise. In the faces of some were painted the colors of debauchery. Rude- ness was their rule of courtesy. The sun contains neither gold, silver, tin, lead, nor mercury, and yet the lusty diggers loved the sun. They slept on the gently sloping hill-side, or down in the dry beds of the rivers, roofed only by the timbered banks, and lighted only by the dim cathedral light of the stars,- which slid their rays through the rents in the foliage overhead. Chaste as Diana, the yellow metal seemed to possess her power, and turn intrud- ing Acteons into stags. Boys still in feeling, their locks began to silver, and soon they were old men. As regards gold, for which these men had come so far, and toiled so hard, and sacrificed so much ; gold, for which loved ones far away were even now sutler- LEGEND OF NEGRO lULL. 301 ing, waiting with fond and faithful expectation the wanderer's return, surely every grain of it should bu dearer than his life's blood to the finder, and hoarded as miser never yet hoarded wealth. Let us see. Says tlie alealde of Monterey: 'My man Bt)b, who is of Irish extraction, and wlio has been in the niinis about two months, returned to Monterey four weeks since, bringing with him over two thousand dollars as the proceeds of his labor. Bob, while in my employ, re- quired me to pay him every Saturday night in gt>ld, which he put into a little leather bag, and sewed into the lining of his coat, after taking out just twelve and a lialf cents, his weekly allowance for tobacco. But now ho took rooms, and began to branch out; he had the Lv;st horses, the richest viands, and the choicest wines in the ])lace. He never drank himself, but it filled him with delight to brim the sparkling goblet for others. I met Bob to-day and asked him how he got on. 'O, very well,' he replied, 'but I am off again for the mines.* 'How is that. Bob? You brought down with you over $2,000 ; I hope you have not spent all that ; you used to be very saving — twelve and a half cents a week for tobacco, and the rest you sewed into the Hning of your coat.* 'O, yes,' reimed Bob, * and I have got that money yet ; I worked hard for it, and the devil can't get it away, but the $2,000 came asily by good luck, and has gone as asily as it came.'" A negro, finding himself adrift in the gold-land, thought to lay in a store, so striking out with the rest, lie began at once to realize his hopes. He had not long been at work when a rusty miner, bristling with bowie- knives and revolvers, came down u[K)n liuu. "Hello, you black scoundrel, what are you doing in niy claim ? ** "Beg pardon, massa; didn't know dis yore claim.'* Glad to get away with his black skin unpunctured, ho next essayed an empty hole at the foot of the hill, ,r 1 i 392 AMONG THE MINERS. but no sooner was he fairly at work when he was greeted with : "Get out of there, you infemel nigger, or I'll blow your head off I" " Good Lord, massa, is dis yore hole ? Where, then, shall I dig?" '*Go up on top of the hill and dig, and bo damned," was the reply. The negro went, not dreaming that he had been directed thither as the most unlikely place to find gold in the whole district. Nevertheless, he sunk a shaft, at the bottom of which he found gold, which he took out to the value of $4,000. The place was named Negro hill, and prov-ed to be the richest diggings in all that region. Labor was the only honorable occupation, and labor was essential to manhood. He who did not work was a social bastard, and a shirk. Lodging-liouscs in early times consisted of a shanty, with walls lined with standing berths, having coarse beds always ready made, so that the proprietor had little else to do than to sit on a stool and take the money. A mincer once havivig occasion to occupy such a bed in San Francisco seemed troubled in mind as he weighed out the dust, and finally broke out with : "Say, stranger, do you just sit thar and take a dol- lar from every man that sleeps on them beds?" "Yes, that's my business," replied the keeper. "Then," said the troubled miner, slowly, as if talk- ing to himself, "its a daumed mean way to make a living, that's all I've got to say about it." See that fortnightly steamer, proudly furrowing her way through the great deep from Pananul to San Francisco I To the scattered inhabitants of tliis vast Pacific slope she brings intelligence from the old busy east. Here is money and merchandise; here ])r(>fit and losses; here germs of fortune and seeds of bank- ruptcy. This, however, is not all. This ocean- Th and ui disgrat iiidu](>( "lie loij ^V(To ti tirs. THEORY OF EXTRAVAGANCE 393 ,aoi- plougher, a thing of life, comes freighted with high tlestiny. Laden with how many tons of joy and sor- row comes she ? How many bundles of love and hate brings she ? How many thousands of little packets of happiness and misery are to be distributed from the mass of mail-sacks in her hold ? Many were the men coming from the mines with their little bag of hard-earned gold-dust, just enough to carry them home, and perhaps a little more, who f(^ll victims to the glight-of-hand sharks of Long Wharf. It is strange that so many simple ones with beards and brawny arms and wrinkled faces should be found among those who had spent a year or more in the country. It certainly speaks well for their asso- ciates in the mines; but most of the weather-beaten innocents were western men who came across the plains and had never seen New York, San Francisco, or any other large city, and the professionals of Long Wharf were adepts, and very shrewd. Numberless were the complaints of these old infants before the re- corder, of having been inveigled under some pretext into a low den, and there robbed, or induced to bet on some sure thing. The cappers for these houses could put their hands upon their victim among a thousand ; usually in some way they professed friendship for the countryman, and gained his confidence — he was from the same state, was likewise going home, was just about to procure his ticket, would show his friend tlie way, stopping, accidentally of course, at the house of his thieving associates. muB her San vast Ibusy i)rot\t )anl<- Iceau- Tlus in the mines were elements instinct with riot and unrest, while in the cities immbcrloas were the (lisj^raceful bankruptcies attributable to foppery and the inilulgenco of the palate. Such as these, enn)tying at one long draught the Circe-prottered cup, straightway ^\ (Tc turned to swine, retaining yet their human facul- ties. To some it seemed as if a ]>remium was laid on indulgence and extravagance. Fires were sweeping i'^i 894 AMONG THE MINERS. away cities and their contents ; floods spread periodic desolation over the land, mining and business ventures were like staking money — or what was worse, time, sinew, health^jnly from the falling of the dice, and from that which a man spent could he expect to re- ceive benefit. Every mining-camp had its Anacreon, its jovial and musical toper, who drank and sang in praise of wine and love. Every camp had its ruling spirits, careless of the morrow if only they might by the magic of their gold, ardently spiritualized by drink, be perfectly happy for to-day. They were as wild in their beliefs and theories of gold-deposits as was Samuel Lover's fairy-finder. Darby Kelleher, who threatened to make mincemeat of little drunken Doctor MacFinn, whom he mistook for a Leprehaun, if he did not straightway fill his chest with gold. It was a matter of no small pride to go back home successful, and thousands remained and died rather than be seen by their friends as poor as when they went away. "Home or the mines I" was the watch- word of more than one gambling venture. There was an Englishman who, having secured a bag of gold-dust, the result of a summer's work in the mines, reached anchorage at Liverpool with Lis treasure in safety; but on going ashore, the gang-plank gave way, and he wa.^, precipitated into the water. To save himself he dropped his bag of gold, and was never able to re- cover it. Happening to have about him just enougli to pay his fare to California, he immediately purchased a ticket, and returned to the mines without ever once casting eyes on his old home, or grasping his friends by the hand. But the lucky ones I How forever after by all the villagers they were held in reputation as the bravest and wi^^est of men, even as was Haddad Ben Ahab, who journeyed to the wall of the earth's end, and from its top gazed on the mysteries beyond. Yet there were some who, after a weary search for great SMALL AND GREAT. "m things, returned to their homes, only to find their des- tiny in village labor, their fathers at first seeming in tlieir eyes old-fashioned, fossilized, non-progressive men of la vieille roche. The stories told by returned Californians were to their hearers fabulous ; and they were, indeed, too often as little worthy of literal belief as the wonders Rabelais narrated concerning his hero — how seventeen thousand cows and more scarcely supplied the babe with milk ; how the mare on which he rode was as large as six elephants ; how he cut lettuce as big as walnut trees, used for his hair a comb nine hundred feet long, and for a toothpick an elephant's tusk, ■'' f CHAPTER XVII. SQUATTERISM. Some suffer them selfe for defaut of aparannce, To be outlawyd, and other some suspendyd, Out of the churche for hys mys goueranunce, And yet nought caryth, therfro to be defendyd, Howe beit they myght: and haue theyr mater endyd, Suche assay by falshode to prouoke the lawe, And than it He, and them therefro with drawe. y/tc Ship of Fools. Squatterism is the doctrine or system which has for its base the maxim eminently American that all citizens have equally the right to share in the com- mon property of the country, particularly in the public domain. The terms squatter and settler are often used synonomously, the former being no more a word of opprobrium than the latter. A squatter is one who takes possession of and settles on unoccupied land. He may do so legally, taking possession of lands belonging to the government, and in accordance with all the requirements of government, or he may plant himself on lands belonging to another or on lands in dispute, or on lands covered by ISIexi- can grants of which he had no knowledge, or in the validity of which he had no faith. The term settler is rather the more respectable of the two, as that im- plies simply one who makes his home upon a piece of ground formerly either public domain, or land held by another and acquired by purchase. Thus we see a squatter may be a settler, and a settler may be a squatter. There is this distinction, and this only : a settler is seldom intentionally a fraudulent squatter, although a squatter may be a respectable settler. As (396 LAND-CLAIM COMMISSION. 397 a rule, however, the terra squatters is applied to those who settle upon the lands of another, or upon lands in dispute, while the settler is one of that worthy and enterprising class who enter upon and subdue unap- propriated public domain, and thereby establish a claim, by virtue of first actual possession, to the right of purchase or of title in conformity with law. Of course a man may settle himself in town or in a thickly populated district; but the term is usually used as I have said. Between the honest settler and the unprincipled squatter there was a marked differ- ence. The one was contented with what land he could use, and willing his neighbor should have as nmch; he did not oppose monopoly in another while practising it himself; he was not unjustly agra- rian, but ready to respect the rights and titles of others, as he would have others respect his. If the large grant-holders came into possession of their lands justly and in accordance with law, the land was theirs. If our government promised to respect those rights, it should do so, at whatever cost to its citizens. With- out going back to the time when these grants were made, when the Mexican authorities could not give their lands away, and regarded every loyal settler an acquisition compared with which a few leagues of land were as nothing ; without taking into the account the necessities of these grant-holders for broad lands for grazing purposes, their risks of life and property among the wild natives, their isolation, and their cliances of never again living in civilized society, — which indeed, but for the accidental discovery of gold, tliey would not, nor scarcely did then, — without tak- ing these and the like into consideration at all, the holders of large land grants righteously obtained are as much entitled to protection as any other class of men in their possessions. The squatter of the California flush times was one who assumed the name of settler without being en- titled to it. He was a professional gull, ever hover- I M 398 SQUATTERISM. ing about some oroad-acred pelican, which had dived into the depths for its possessions, and held them rightfully. He it was who speculated in town lots, staked off fa ming lands, jumped mining claims, and stole the nest of another rather than build one of his own ; waiting and watching for opportunities to pounce upon the property of others if so be he might escape the law's penalty. The squatters of Sacramento, affirming that the lands of Sutter belonged to the United States, re- solved, in July 1850, to hold possession of that which they had seized, peaceably if possible, forcibly if neces- sary ; and if the bail of an arrested squatter should be refused simply because the bondsman was not a land- holder under Sutter, all executions issued in conse- quence thereof should be deemed illegal, and the associated squatters should "act accordingly." A commission was appointed by act of congress, early in 1851, for the purpose of ascertaining and set- tling private land claims in California. It was to consist of three commissioners appointed by the presi- dent, a secretary skilled in the Spanish and English languages, and not to exceed five clerks; it was to continue for three years, unless sooner terminated by the president. An attorney was to be appointed to attend the meetings of iiie board, and guard the inter- ests of the United States in the premises. The com- mission might summon witnesses, and administer oaths; and every person claiming lands in California by virtue of any right or title derived from the Span- ish or Mexican governments, should present the same to the commissioners when sitting as a board, together with such documentary evidence and testimony of witnesses as the claimant relied upon in support of his claim. Appeals from the commission might be made to the United States district court, and thence to the United States supreme court. Three tedious tribu- nals, attended by harassing and expensive litigation, were thus to be undergone before the land-holder was SORROWS OF THE SETTLER. 399 secured in the peaceable possession of what in the be- ginning was his own. In deciding upon the vaUdity of claims, the com- missioners and courts were to be governed by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, the laws of nations, the laws, usages, and customs of the government from which the claim is derived, the principles of equity, and the decisions of the supreme court of the United States so far as applicable. A. patent should issue to claimants for all claims finally confirmed ; those finally rejected should be considered as part of the public domain of the United States. Land granted by the Mexican authorities for the establislimcnt of a town in existence on the 7th day of July, 1846, and town, farm, or pasture lots held under a grant from a cor- poration to which lands were granted for town pur- poses, did not come under the jurisdiction of these commissioners ; and the fact of the existence on the above mentioned day of any town or city being duly proved was prima facie evidence, either of a grant to the corporate authorities or to the individual, under which holders might claim. It was the duty of the commissioners to ascertain and report to the secretary of the interior the tenure by which the mission lands were held, and those held by tame Indians, agricul- turalists, rancheros, and pueblos. It was hoped that when California became a state the uncertainty in regard to land titles, which exer- cised so fatal an influence on agriculture and settle- ment, would be quickly terminated ; but it was about a year after congress had created a commission, whose duration, as I have said, was limited to three years, that the commissioners presented themselves in Cal- ifornia. Many of those who emigrated to California were informed, and undoubtedly believed, that the vast territory ceded by Mexico, and whose beauty and fertility had been so extolled, was at the time of its cession the public property of Mexico, and as such, « ■•}\ ^ '■■■•■■■ Xi\ III: Uy^ I m 400 SQUA'iTERISM. with the change of sovereignty, became the public property of tlie United States. Under that belief they oanio with their families, household goods and catth;, feeling certain that an abundance of valuable agricultural land was to be had for the taking. TluTcfore, when on arrival they found all the best arable lands covered by enormous grants to the Mexi- cans and otliers; that their government had neglected to carry out treaty stipulations to determine the valid- ity of those claims; that the lands of native Cali- foniians even were daily wrested from them by com- binations of squatters and thievish lawyers, tliey were greatly disappointed and naturally indignant. Then it was that breaking down all hedge-rows of law and logic, they struck the bold decision that these preten- tious ten-league land-holders were usurping monopo- lists, who, like savages, unjustly held from advancing civilization brt)ad areas of God's earth for which they had paid nothing, had no use, and t<i which they had no right. Nor were there lacking lawyers and politi- cal demagogues ever ready at hand to feed the fire of their unjust anger and prey upon their pre- judices. The immigrants complained in a memorial to con- gress, forwarded in December 1849, when social quitt was most disturbed by the squatter excitement, th;it tliey had come hither in the belief that their govern- ment had purchased this territory from Mexico, and that they had the right to preempt and settle upon lands here as in any other part of the public domain. But, instead of possessing that right they had found themselves to be trespassers, subject to the extortion- ate demands of pretended owners. Denied them was the privilege to pitch a tent, to plant, to build, to occupy. There is scarcely a spot fit for a settlement, town-site, or farm, said they, that is not crossed with Mexican titles or Spanish grants, and held by the possessors for speculative purposes, greatly to the in- jury of bona fide settlers. Thirty miles square in the JK-OJI WliH noun more JioJdc in th| ihvx hireh") f^tand.v like filf'O O sense, •'•s the *iisput£ under its su turning j"g a ^>r the tonance practise CaJiforri Low IIIISII, AFRICAN, AND CHINESE. 401 Sacramento valley are claimed by two persons, who jiarcol it )ut to gambling speculators for the purpose of obtaining high prices from actual settlers, and this was but a snigle instance. There were not wanting men to espouse the cause of law and order, in its relation to squatterism, as t'lsdwhcre, and to cry loudly against the violation of the sacred principles that constitute the fran?e-work of scK'iety, whenever such violation stood between tlieni and titles to lands held or coveted. On the otlier hand, if law and order stood between them and tlu'ir interests, they were the foremost to es})ouse scjuattorism and brute-force title. The Herald, at first tlie great champion of reform, the leader of the people, and the instigator of committees of vigilance, was denounced by its contemporaries, as later it de- nounced the leaders of the reform of 1856. ** Nothhig more plainly proves the real opinion of many land- lioltlors and speculators in the city," says one, writing in the autunni of 1850, "regarding the validity of their titles, than the reckless and desperate course tliey are now pursuing, as expressed througli the' hireling newspaper organs, at the head of which stands the Herald. If the present judges cannot, like most of our old alcaldes, be bribed to uphold the existing «ystem of land-ownership, and in the face of all law, equity, reason, honesty, and common sense, decide that the beach and water lots, as well as the greater portion of the rest of the city, are in- ilisputable titles in the names of those holding them under such a system, I would ask the Herald and its supporters what they expect to gain b}'- over- turning these courts, murdering the judges, and rais- ing a civil war to destroy the very government which, for the time being, alone gives any support and coun- tenance to the dishonest and fraudulent land robbery practised not only in this city but in all parts of California." Low indeed lie the social sewers through which Cal. Int. Foe. 'J& 402 SQUATTERISM. flow our party politics. Out of the depths, all whiskcy- Boakcd and in ignorance drenching, were brouglit Erin's exiles to be made kings. Then the down -trod- den African was lifted to tlie bosom of northern re- publicans, and borne tenderly to the polls. Next in turn come the Chinamen, now called pig-tailed, and turned into social swine, grunting under the blows of the lordly Irishman; but when needed by a political party every one of them should be a sweet John, and a lovely almond-eyed American voter. The squatters of California were at first denounced by the officers of the law, who called them outlaws, murderers ; but when these same office-holders desired reelection, and squatterism had become a power in the state, then candidates of every party vied with each other in grovelling prostration. From their vocabulary the term "squatter" was stricken, and every land- robber was an honest settler. The immigrants were undoubtedly much disappointed at not being able to step in and take possession of the choicest morsels of the new domahi, and thereupon induljxed their disjjust with all the senseless bombast common to enraged, free-born citizens of the great American republic. With wagons, tents, and equip- age, with guns, knives and pistols, they swarmed up- on the lands of the grant-iiolders, threatening death to any who interfered, and even went so far as to ap- proach the verge of growing towns and stake off upon the principal streets, beyond the limits of the occupied portions, town lots at intervals of forty feet, markiiiL!; the stakes with the names of the claimants, and the time from which such possession dated. Thus it was that very early in the history of Ameri- can occupation in California, squatterism became an evil. It was indeed only a phase of mob law, but with this important difference. A resort to popular, arbi- trary administration of justice might, under certain circumstances, be excusable in criminal cases, where tlie vital principles of social good conduct were at wao woni( not tics Kinc( Was '^nit( her, V "f Fc UU'll o or vac sidio, iiioJislj squatt ^aptaii court. THE EVIL AT SAN FRANCISCO. 408 liicn- Ic an lai'V>i- irtaiu /here Ire at sialic ; but in civil differences, wliicli by no possi- bility can a resort to arms in any wise lessen, and Avhich must ultimately be determined by arbitration, by tiic courts, by common sense and reason, and by nothing else, fighting is brutish. In squatterism the existence of courts is ignored, not because, us is tli(3 case with vigilance connnittees, justice cannot bo ob- tained and the guilty escape, but because justice is tardy and claimants are impatient. And then tho men of California had so long been thrown upon themselves for the redress of grievances, that they liad acquired the habit of fighting their own battles, deeming a resort to law contemptible petty-fogging. No 1 tlie first, the brawny arm, the knife, tlie re- volver, these were the tools for them 1 Away with law and title deeds; we want not reason, we want the [iroperty 1 Swarms of squatters settled on every available spot about San Francisco, whether already claimed or not. The sand hills were so fenced in, without regard to roads or regularity, that it was with difficulty a wagon could nicike its way beyond the suburbs in any (iHvction. Fights between claimants were fn quent, women joining the men in their shooting scrapes, and not infrequently officers in the discharge of their du- ties would be threatened. Most of the land at El liincon, that is to say Rincon Point, or Kincon Hill, was held by the government as a reserve. The rnited States leased it for a time to Theodore Sliilla- bcr, who, upon attempting to take possession the 28th of February, 1850, found it covered with squatters, men of Sydney and that class, who refused to pay rent or vacate. Captain Keys tlien in charge at the pre- sidio, detailed twenty soldiers to the place, who de- molished the tents and shanties and drove off the squatters. One of them brought suit against the captain for damages which was dismissed by the court. In July 1853 the sheriff, Johnson, was shot by a squatter while placing in possession the rightful 404 8QUATTERISM. owner of a lot on Mission street ; Union Square was fenced in, and when by order of the niayor the street commissioner attempted to remove it, the claimant drew a pistol but was disarmed before he could use it. It was in a quarrel over a lot on Greenwich street tliat John Baldwin, an old and respected citizt?n, was shot dead by one Hetherington. There was a multi- tude of affairs of this nature, many of which resulted fatally. Samuel Brannan in 1851 had deeded the Odd Fel- lows' ground for a cemetery, and by mid-summer 1853 squatters swarmed on it. In certain quarters there appeared something like systematic organization with wealth behind appearances. It appears that Captain Folsom experienced no little trouble from the squatter. He repeatedly cm- ployed armed bodies of men to clear his property, tear down fences, demolish houces and drive oft' claim- ants. This was a rather arbitrary practise for a whilom government officer; but the courts were slow, nmch slower than gunpowder; and when property was rapidly appreciating and depreciating, lengthy litiga- tions would entail loss even to the winner. A lot on the corner of Mission and Third streets was the scene of a fatal squatter riot about the first of June 1854. Some ten men were engaged on either side. The police were rather inclined to favor the squatters, but they were finally ejected. In this disgraceful aftair two men were killed and five wounded. So rank had become this evil that holders of prop- rty under title derived from the city, and others, )ld a meeting on the 5th of June, 1854, at the offi Vi) of Theodore Payne and Company, and steps were taken toward the appointment of a special police for the protection of their lots, or in other words, for the organization of a band of fighting men to drive away the squatters. Something of the kind was needed, and, indeed, justifiable, for the squatters had entrenched themselves on Mission street; and threatened havoc and def bo mad c'aiJod, i of a sa boon ph ^>oking dated sJi tlius asp '"^' poss( "lootinir at Musici More I street be< tahiing p spread raj ^ lot tliat I'ghtfu] o^ ently squa t^acJi otiicr i^owell, Jfl claimed si coiitendin ^'•iimant. «thor side s and a wom^ loss active and formini promises on ^v'ho march *inels. Th« ^ml drove t «jght before s'on, and na tJiey were ^ ^v'ore then p "Pon the sai It Was th stake ofl^ the 'g FIGHTS AND LAW-SUITS. and death, fire a!id extermination, should any attempt bo made to expel them. Fort Larkin the place was called, in honor of one of the riniiloaders. The jxallev of a sailing-vessel, perforated with port-holen, had l)oon planted as a fortress on the disputi-d lot, over- looking which, on a sandy eminence, stood a dilapi- dated shanty, the headquarters of the belligerents who thus aspired to become owners of lots by merely tak- ing possession of them. The next day a nmch larg«>r meeting for the suppression of squatterism was held at Musical Hall. More and more audacious the squatters t>f Mission street became every day. And the infection for ob- tauiing property without rendering an equivalent spread rapidly over the city. Soon there was scarcely a lot that was not fenced in and guarded, either by its rightful owner or by some wrongful claimant. Pres- tMitly squatter rose up against squatter, and fought each other. On Green street, between Stockton and Powell, James Lick owned a lot which two squatters claimed sinmltaneously. Murphy and Duffy being the contending claimants, and each backed by a sub- claimant. One party erected a fence, and when the other side attem})ted to pull it down, pistols were fired, and a woman and a man shot. The squatters were no less active than their opponents in holding meetings and forming secret associations. Before the dispute*! premises on Mission street armed men were stationed, who marched back and forth night and day like sen- tinels. The authorities at length took the matter up, and drove them away ; but scarcely were they out of sight before the squatters were back again in posses- sion, and nailing up their demolished fences. Finally they were effectually dislodged ; the rightful owners were then placed in possession, and peace again smiled upon the sand-hills. It was the fashion of purchasers of water-lots to stake off the limits of their submerged lands and fence them in by means of pile-drivers, paying little regard vji i06 SQUATTERISM. to the necessities of sliii)ping or the rights of other claimants. Tiiis custom led to nuiny fights ahnig the city t'nmt, and numberless injunctions and coniplahits in the courts. Possession was generally regarded the best title, and to obtain or hold possession a resort to arms was of daily occurrence. In acquiring or maintaining title to the water-lots of Yerba Bucna cove, the pile-driver was an imi)ortant agent; superseding Irishmen, it fenced city blocks in the bay, and if dispossessed, fell back u\Mni strategy to maintain possession. Ac(!rtain block, for example, was wholly enclosed on three sides, and on the fourth the fence of piles was open only sutHcient to admit a vessel. Just within this entrance were stationed two store ships, green water-dragons guarding possession, and keeping the ])ile-driver away from what it had with so nmch difficulty enclosed. Either the vessels nmst be carried by a ptorming party, and the aperture closed by the pile-driver, or they nmst be cut loose and turned adrift hi the dead(»f tlio night. In this instance both devices were used and a loiiii' list of fi<;hts and law-suits followed. Hiram J?earson and F. Lawson were, on the 21st of September, 1853, accused before the recorder of assault with deadly weapons while attenn)ting to take possession of a water lot. Pearson was discharge*! and Lawson held for trial. The contending parties, it appears, had fought in boats, one of which, an old hulk called the Bethel, Lawson scuttled, intending to sink it t>n the lot and so maintain possession. Shots were freely fired on both sitles, and attempts made to thn)W each other overboard; but no lives were lost. One Pinkham, living in April 1864 at the Potrero, thought to enrich his posterity by driving piles so as to enclose a number of overflowed lots in front of the glass-works. Others caught the infection; lines of piles were driven, and lots enclosed at intervals, from Potrero point halfway to Steandioat point, and again nearly to the mouth of Mission creek. The desire AFFAIR AT SAN RAFAEL. 407 2 1st 'X of take 'ties, old [IT to lihots Ic to ll)St. trert), ls(» as If the Ics ot' I frolic lira ill lesivo for free suburban bomestoads, and water-lots witbout ]tiiy, was always prevalent among tbe land-bungry of San Francisco, and recent grants made by tbe legis- lature seemed to bave fired afresb tbeir insane desires, Tbe water-lots tbus seized belonged to tbe state, and many piles were driven along tbe city front for wbicb tbe greedy grabbers never received visible compensa- tion. Tberc was a difficulty in Marin county in August I8r)4, wbicb tbreatened to assume a serious aspect. Ceitain mission lands near San Rafael, wbicb bad been set apart bv^ tbe Mexican autborities for rellijious purposes, were seized and staked oft' by an oi'ganized band of squatters, wbo determined to bold tlie i>rop- crtv tie et ar)nis. One winyr t)f tbe mission buildino;s at San Rafael was, in 184!), used as a cburcb, and tbe «»tlier as couit and jury rooms ; otber apartments were occupied by Mexican families witb tbeir dogs, ]u)gs, and <attle. By order of tbe alcalde, William ]iey- iiolds, tbe city was suiAeyed in 1850 and laid oft' in town lots witb a Mexican title. Tbe price of b)ts was fixed at tbirty dollars eacb, and a day aj)pointed by the alcalde for tbe sale, tbe first a])plicant to receive the first cboice. A great rush was made for lots by tliose wbo bad failed to make tbeir fortunes in San Francisco sand-bills; but tbe town, developing more slowly than was anticipated, many of tbem were al- lowed to fall into tbe bands of tbe tax-»jatberer. Tbe land in dispute bordered upon tbe town, and was j)ait of tbe old mission orcbard and vineyard, wbicb bad been neglect d by tbe cburcb and by its rightful own- ers for niiiuy years, and bad at length fallen a prey to l)ivemi)t(»rs. On the 7tli of August tbe cbuivb party, to the number of al)out twenty-five, apjx^ared against the squatters witb sticks and staves, and drove tbem from tbeir sbores. So habituated bad tbe people of California l)ecomo to trusting only to themselves for tbe accomplisbment of their purpose, that mob law became tbe too frecjuent I 408 SQUATTERISM. ' «: ]■' arbiter of important civil cases, especially in the set- tlement of squatter disputes, and in swindles affecting the general public. Whatever was wrongfully accom- plished by law, the people who had learned to look upon themselves as above the law, deemed it incum- bent upon them to make right, and this they did in the surest and most direct manner. The town of Oakland was thrown into a state of great excitement on the 27th of August, 1853, arising from the claims of Carpeiitier, !Moore, and others t(j the long line of water property along the front. A meeting was held and resolutions passed repudiating these claims, and determining to divide such pro[»crty equitably among the people. This, with the assist- ance of club and pistol, they proceeded to do. Two hundred and fifty citizens signed a pledge Jo ; I by each other at all hazards. Then at it thvy went. Business was suspended; fighting was free to ail; and the result was that Carpentier's men were beaten and ignominiously driven from the field. Nowhere did the energy and audacity of the squat- ters assume greater proj)ortions than on the lands of John A. Sutter, in the Sacramento vallev. Sutter's claim was beyond all question valid. He was the j)io- neer in this rej^ion. He had r< reived from the Mex- ican autliorities a genuine grant, m due time confirnud bv tlie United States ijovernment He built a fort, cultivated the soil, and raised flocks and herds. If there were anywhere rights and conditions entitled to res[)ect by innnigrants, they were here present. The 14th of August, 1850, witnessed a serious aflra J' between the citizens and an organized band of squatters composed of emigrants who had taken ui> claims on unoccupied lands in and adjoining Sacra- mento. It apjwars that a case had lately been tried and decided against the squatters, the judge denying an appeal. This decision, together with what they deemed an illegal attempt on the part of an inferior court "^o make it final, fo exasperated the squatte ^ that gove obey witJi tJie d inouii to th( ]'risor one ()) An a ]arg( demon cials u Jace, tJ assesso iiiortali his su] TJie les fiiialJv ( Xext d in tJie c i"g sue] saloon t f^quattor eral nx sJierifi tors tak governo] iiiihtia t< tlie riot, deinned ( inir.st uj taking u ^JiiTo a]) f"i'Mia wa and Hex; to arijis V SucJi, I ^••ot of I )( ^1 if' 1 I BLOODY AFFRAY IN SACRAMENTO. 409 that they held a mass meeting, and declared the state government unlawful and the authorities not to be obeyed. Two of their number were arrested, charged with rebellion, and lodged in the prison brig. On tlie day above mentioned forty armed men, under a mounted leader, marched through the streets down to the prison brig for the purpose of releasing the lirisonors, and also to recover certain lumber of which one of their number had been dispossessed. Arrived at the levee thev found close at their heels a lanjce crowd hooting at them, and makin*; warlike demonstrations. The mayor, sheriff, and other offi- cials were on the spot. Closely ])ressed by the j)opu- lace, the squatters wheeled and fired. Tlie mayor, assessor, and a dozen others were struck, several mortally. The fire was returned by the sheriff and his supporters, and continued for about an hour. The leader of the squatters was killed and the band filially dispersed. Thus far five or six only were dead. Next day the sheriff with about twenty men set out in the direction of the fort f«)r the purpose of arrest- ing such squatters as they could find. Stop})ing at a saloon to drink, the sheriff's party was fired upon by scjuatters concealed in an adjoining room, and a gen- eral melee ensued, in which three, including the slieriff, were killed, several wounded, and four squat- ters taken prisoners. On receipt of the news, the gfjvernor, then at San Jose, ordered a brigade of militia to proceed to Sacramento and assist in quelling the riot. This uprising of the squatters was con- demned on all sides; a torrent of pul>lic indignation !»urst upon them from all })arts of the state. For taking up arms against the constituted authorities, there appeared no justification, no palliation. Cali- fornia was not yet a state; the titli'S to })ublic lands and Mexican grants were ill understood, but a resort to arms was not the way to settle them. Such, briefly, was the great Sacramento s([uatter riot of 1850. The squatter party was composed ill il il ' I. i I I 410 SQUATTERISM. chiefly of iininigrants f.'orn the western states, where Spanish grants were unknown. Schooled in the cl(x?- trine that all unoccupied American soil is free, they knew and cared to know nothinij of the land laws other than the laws of preemption ; and to be driven from their lots by speculators claiming under the Sutter title was unbearable tyranny. The trouble had long been brewing. Much feeling prevailed during the winter of 1849-50, and the squatter element then lacked only a leader openly to resist Sach a spirit at length appeared under the name of Dr Robinson, who was seconded by one M ihoney. One of the squatters had bec^n ejected ti\e authorities, and two arrested as before men- ti./ned. Meanwhile the squatters had been collecting army and ammunition with which to oppose the exe- cution of the law. Robinson was arrested, passed the form of trial, and was released. Not h^ng after he was elected to the legislature from Sacramento county, an act on the part of the people significant of their sj-mpjithy. An organized band of squatters, some eighty in number, who had taken up claims on an island in Feather river, kno vn as the Jimeno grant, told the deputy United Statos marshal, who in May, 1853, was attempting to sei ve certain summons, that they had contributed $3,000. with which to defend the suit, that they were now carrying it to the supronu' court, and if they lost it there they should then fight. They told the officer, moreover, that if he attempted to serve his summons they would kill him. The mar- shal retired and took the boat for San Francisco. Stop])ing at a wood-yard, he learned that the proprie- tor, Holiday, was one of the persons for whom he had a summons. The marshal delivered the writ and be- gan to read the summons, when he was interruptt d with, "Waal, I suppose I may as well kill you now as any time," at the same time receivhig on his arm, which he had thrown up to protect his head, a blow SANTA BARBARA AND HEALDSBURO. 411 which, had it not missed its aim, would have killed him. Being unarmed, and unable to pnjcure a weapon on board, the officer was obliged to return without having accomplisiied his purpose. In May 1853, one of the frequent disputes arose as to the possession of a certain piece of land at Santa Barbara. Jack Powers had settled upc^n a tract about two miles from town, which Nicholas Den claimed to have leased for a number of years from the government. The case was decided in Den's favor in the district court, and afterward in the suprcn;e court. Nevertheless, Powers refused to give up possession, claiming that as it was government property, it was free f:o all American citizens. Sheriff Twist deter- mined to eject him by force. Powers then collected fifteen of his friends, and formed a sort of barricade on the rancho, by felling trees, piling up logs, and ar- ranging wagons for the purpose. They had liquors and food provided for a number of days, and several |)ieces of nmsic to enliven the time. Well armed with revolvers, rifles, and shot-guns they were pre- pared to resist the officers. Three of Powers' adher- ents, on the way to his place, encountered the sheriff and others, who were trying to take out the spikes that had been put in the cannon the previous night. Words ensued as to their intended use of the cannon, which resulted in a serious melee with several wounded and some killed on both sides. Not less than 200 men, squatters on the Fitch, the Pena, and the Berreyesa grants, situated about Hcaldsburg on Russian river, banded for mutual pro- tection in movements defensive and aggressive. Sonoma and Santa Rosa valleys in common with al- most all parts of the state covered with Mexican grants, have been the scenes of repeated assassinations and outbreaks, of which I give n instance. In April iS58 fifty armed men attacked the government sur- veyor, Tracy, then acting under instructions issued by Mandeville, surveyor general, seized and tore in i I 5 1,1 i 412 SQUATTERISM. pieces his papers, and informed him if he valued liis life he would drop that business and go home, which Tracy was very glad to be able to do. The band then rode to the house of Pena, where Lugo, one of the owners of a large tract, was stopping and forced him under threats of han<xinir to siijn an article of release of title to certain lands, and also to innnediatelv and forever retire from those parts. Next the mob i>n)- ceeded to Healdsburg, distant from the former frolie about six miles, in search of Dr Frlsbie, a landholder whom they proposed to force into the relinquishment of his title to a portion of his lands. The citizens rallied to the support of law and government, and though the squatters threatened to burn the town, held their ground, and the free-land men retired. At Suisun in December 1862 certain squatters against whom John B. Frisbie had obtained judg- ment, and a writ of restitution, refused to vacate when ordered to do so by the sheriff; whereupon that officer summoned to his aid a posse, and marched against them when they yielded. The original proprietors of Boise city, Idaho, bought the town site from ranchmen who had settled there, surveying it and laying it out in town lots ; to every one who wished to build a dwelling they gave a piece of ground. Busuiess lots they sold. All went well until in the autumn of 1864, a judge and two lawyers dropped upon the place and then l)egan lot-jumping and litigation. In some way the sentiment got abroad that the proprietor's title was valueless, that the ground on which the city was built was public domain, and that any one might settle on an}' unoccupied spot. Then the two lawyers revelled in fat. Those who had taken possession of their neighbor's property, hoping to get something for nothing, after submitting to ex- pensive litigations were obliged to step down from their position and leave the land to its original occu- pants and their successors. Lov saiiit. other ] eccentr '•le enc Was gi\ T , ( I'lanci.s nestle t witli P 'SpanisJi 'is proi self to 1 tile chuil isli crow "f Quin tin, like Mas ver\ other ii killing f( It has Quintln ^Spaniard 'ity of SI durum; iinr for Jjhorigina ( I 1;^ CHAPTER XVIII. PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. Such prisons are beyond all liberty. — SnrMituj. Lovely San Qucntin 1 Saint thief I Thief and no srtiiit. Saint and the dwelling place of thieves and otlicr malefactors. The name and the naminij were (Hcontric and mongrel, though, as it turned out, suita- lilr enough, even considenng that to Spanish "San" was <civen a foreijin " Qucntin." To explain. Round that bright corner of San Francisco bay, where under the shadow of Tanialpais nestle the coves of Corte de !Madera and San Rafael, witli Punta de Quintin, as the point was called in S])an*ish times, bet^yeen them, there once roamed with his ])eople a native chieftain, who, on allowijig him- self to be sprinkled on the head, and made a son of tlk' church, as well as an humble vassal of the S[)an- isli crown, was honored by the padre with the name if Quintin, after one of the saints. Now, this Quin- tin, like others we luivc known possessing Christianity, was very far from a Christian's ideal in his raids and dtlier innnoral practises, inasmuch as stealing and killing formed parts of his programmes. It has been clahned that the point was called San Quintin in remembrance of a victory won by the Sjumiards over the French in 1547, in front of the city of San Quintin, the ancient Augusta Veroman- d< "rum ; but there is no evidence of that being a fact ; nor for placing San before Quintin. It was the aboriginal non-sanctus after whom it was named. (413 J if .it irii t SJ /'i 414 PArlFIC COAST rRlSONS. Woird and hobgoblin were the uses and purposes, as "Well as the name and naming of the enchanted spot. From the ocean tlie rough breezes como tcmi>cred by warm airs rising from sutmy meadows, while the fog- banks, filtered by the wooded slopes, wrap the tnirsty earth in gentle moisture. Glorious indeed the view toward the east; the pliant sparkling water, the smooth billowy hills, and the shoaled and islotcd shore winding between; while beyond, old Diablo, winks and blinks and nods as in uncouth wooing of the gorgeous wealth of beauty at its feet. A rare retreat, truly, for those whose lives are de- voted to the laborious occupation of unjustly appro- priating to their own use the property of others. Alasl that man should be obliged to shackle his fellow-man ; that society after feeding and clothing from boyhood scoundrels who never in all their lives did one blow of honest or beneficial work, after pro- nouncin<j: a formal condemnation should be obliijcd to lodge and feed and clothe them, in lots of hundreds and thousands for years and often for the remainder of their lives. Yet they would say how hard the devil drives his servants! Before San Quentin was, there were villains ; but never have they been so well housed on these Pacific shores; that is to say, those who have been publicly housed at all. Time was when this charmed shore of California played its role as a sort of penal settle- ment for a society rich in rascality. Mexico sent hither her criminals with the double intent, as lur authorities had the assurance to say, of improving their morals and increashig the population of Califor- nia ; and to the petition for a lessening of the evil, to send only useful convicts, since California had no jails, no heed was paid for several years. Then, and be- fore, and since, were presidios for prisons, and mission- ary buildings for guard-houses. In those days class, and caste, and character entered largely into prison etiquette. Some convicts enjoyed the liberty of a PRISON BRIOS. 415 free citizen, living on a ranclio or in the pueblo; others were restricted to certain districts, or ct)nfined within l)()undaries; while yet others were doomed to shackles and liard labor under su^iervision of the garrison. In tliose da_y8 it was small pain to be a great villain, though woeful to sin lightly. Among the gold hunters, the ships that brought tliein out were sometimes turned into jails and peni- tentiaries under the name of prison brigs. San Fran- cisco boasted t)ne of these, as likewise did Sacramento. Tlic Enplicmia, as the pristm brig of San Francisco was called, was purchased about the first of August, 1841), with the first money appropriated In' tlie town council, elected by order of General Klley. This was tlie first regularly appointed place of confinement where rogues and convicts were kept in custody. When the old Euphcinia proved inadequate to the rapidly increasing demand for prison facilities, other liulks were added to the prison service; and thus matters stood when in April, 1851, an act was passed l>y the legislature appointing a board of inspectors and giving James M. Estill, with wliom was associated ^[. G. Yallejo, a contract for the control of the state jiison, prisoners, and hulks for a term of ten years. The time was one of dear labor and eccentric en- terprise ; and it was thought to be a grand thing if tl e institution could be made self-supporting, and tlie prisoners be obliged to work for their bread. In this way the state would be relieved from the expense of cjuardiuij and mahitaininij its felons. But the government soon saw that it had committed a most egregious error. The abuses were manifold and fla- grant. Public weal was soon dropped out of the management, and innnediate j)tcuniary profit became tlic dominant purpose. Such of the prisoners as it was found profitable co keep at work, were kept at hard labor from daylight till dark, Sundays and other (lays, chopping wood, making brick, or performing contracts m which such kind of servitude was found 1 ' ,)i \^^\\ 4ie PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. remunerative. The rest were permitted to escape. On one occasion, while a prison brig was lying at Angel island, the men at work and their guardians lolling in the cabin, the convicts quietly turned the key on them, and escapnig to the adjacent mainland betook themselves to the woods. It soon became aj^parent that the hulk system failed to meet the requirements, and that ground nmst be selected and substantial buildings erected. The year following, namely, in A})ril 1852, a bill passed the legislature providing for the erection of a state prison on the site purchased at Point Quintin. Even then the stone building which soon arose failed to accommodate all, nor would the interests of the contractors allow prisoners to be confined to one locality. Hulks were still used at diH'erent points. Men were likewise sent in squads under feeble guards to farms and woods ; many convicts were even dcs- ])atched unguarded to distant places. Great partiality was shown, thereby facilitating the escape of many a scoundrel. Still matters were for from prosperous ; and so clam- orous became the public, that in 1855 the legislatun^ revoked the contract with Estill, and declared his lease forfeited. The state then assumed the manajxe- ment. A board of directors was appointed, and a strong wall twenty feet high, was thrown round the j)rison premises. In 1856, politics being more power- ful than public weal, and as a reward for his for- mer unfaithfulness, a fresh contract was made with the same Estill, with new restrictive conditions. He was to safely keep and maintain the state prisoneis for the term of five years at a compensation of $10,000 a 3'ear. So favorable to the lessee was this contract that Estill was enabled almost immediately to assign it to one McCauley at half the compensation allowed him. The principle was now a grinding one ; prison man- agement meant simply money. Abuses were ranker rENITENTIARY msCirLINE. ill tlian ever ; so much so that in 1858 govoriiniont nn;aiii (K'claivtl tlio contract aiiuullcd, and took forcible jtos- si'ssion of tlic promises. Tlie lieutenant-governor was iiiaile ex-ofticio warden, with a full staff, and the keys delivered to him. The assiL'nee broujxht suit for dam- ages which was sustained by the supreme couil. A compromise was agreed U[)on, but the statt; failed to meet its obligation. At last, in 1800, to get rid of him. a bonus was paid the assignee, since which time, if we except several extensive escai)es, state-prison iiiaiiagement has steadily improved. Prison discipline, penitentiary science, uniting with tlie system of reformatory efforts, are of late begin- ning. The castle donjons of the feudal barons had improved but little when civilization had largely ad- vanced hi other directions. The eigliteenth century had well-nigh gone before Howard made liis fanums ('X|ioso of the wretch(Kl condition of prisons in England and Wales, and the great Millbank penitentiary, mod- oli'd by Jeremy Bentham, had not been built more than tliirty years when the grounds at Quintin Point wt'ie laid out; so that California, although the young- est of the great societies, is not so far behind the rest of the world in this regard as might be imagined. In almost all modern prisons industrial labor lias taken the place of purely ]>enal labor, such as the crank, shot-drill, and treadmill. All well-managed juisons are now self-sui)porting, or more than self- sui>i)orting Each prisoner, immediately he is incarcerated, whether in a state " penitentiary or a county prison, should be put to work. Jails should not be conducted upon the free-boarduig- lunisi' principle, but convicts s-i' nJ.d be made to earn their living, or as nearly so as possible. There are things useful that even children can do; and if the fodil of the prisoner depended somewhat upon his earnings, it might tend to sharpen his wits over use- ful work. Cal. 1st. I'oc. 27 , '4\ 418 PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. Thero arc different systems of on mannircniriit ill the United States. In all state-prisons tlie cnn- tract system prevails, with .some half d»)zen exceptions ; some are under state manat^ement, and some niixcd. Several states show earnint^s amounting to more tlian expenses. In North Carolina the averai^e cost of inaiiitahiini; prisoners per capita in 1 875 was about !?:m). while in Oregon it was over $300, and in Nevaila nearly $400. In the average number of prisoners San QutMitiii with 1>00 or thereabouts, stands sixth. Sing Sing, in New York with 1300 being first, Auburn, New Yoik. and Joliet, Illinois, with a few less, behig second and third. Nevada can scarcely boast of 100, while the average of Oretjon is but little more. The prison managers of 1877 complain that Clii- nese cheap labor is ruining the penitentiary ! TIic law permits convicts to be hired out at the rate of fifty cents a day. At twenty-five cents a day cnn- tractors could employ them, but not at more than this, as otherwise Ch' • labor is preferable. There is a state prison at 1 a\. More facilities are re- quired either at San Quentin, Folsom, or elsewluio. The prison tract at San Quentin com)>riscs i;)0 acres. The situation is extremely favorable ; the soil first recommended it, being good clay for bricks. The prison itself covers a square of six acres, enclosed bv a wall now twenty-five feet high. Outside are a number of buildings for offices, stables, and outhouses. with a few ijarden patches. The warden's villa lies on an elevation near by. Inside the wall are three rell buildings of several stories, parallel to one anothtr, and twenty feet apart. Two are of brick 124 by -''' feet, and erected in 1864 at a cost of $60,000 eaeli. There was $200,000 appropriated by the legislature of 1876 for new buildings, and a four-story l-rick structure 50 by 400 feet was the result. With the exception of the lower story of the storo buildhig, which is divided into seven large rooms, with r lioned l»y fou passage tiek. t\\ '•(■sides, tides, a The I rics. oiie whole h the irrcj tlie cent] ♦It'll, wit desei't. A nun )dt; sen "ig muzzl tions. \1 narrow ti i^iiard Jioi «i'«o situ J,'all()ns. Convict •UK I to JU( ^^ rather i new arriv, measured, agination case (,f es i^"'form, ai A. secom ^^ the ha ''''">lvct-tos '■^'xl iiijign Illeiit. fh( •''"^"1 release ^vlio shows '^if;'ravated ^^'in not say SAN QUENTIN. 419 witli rows of bunks, the rest of tlio floors arc parti- tioiK'cl into (loul)lo lines of cells, chieflv nine feet loiiir Itv four wulo, and eijjfht high, opening tui a central passago. The cells eontiiin ono to two bunks, a straw tick, two pairs of blankets and a bucket. Many are, lit sides, neatly furnished with tables, stools, toilet ar- ticles, and ornaments made or bought by the inmate. The block also contains workshops of several sto- ries, one costing $130,000, and a number of offices; the wliole having rather a patchy appearance owing to the irrciLiular additions made at various times. In the centre Is an open space cultivated as a Hower gar- bled, with a hewn stone fountain — an oasis in the desert. A number of yjuards arc on the watch atjainst re- volt; sentinels patrol upon the walls; and the frown- iii;jj muzzles of primed guns api>ear in different direc- tions. Upon the two parallel hills which enclose the narrow tract tKere are, besides, several stations or ;iuard houses with grape-charged cannon. There are also situated the prison reservoirs, one of 250,000 gallons. A large l)rick yartl borders on the bay. Convicts are brought hither by country sheriffs; and to judge by the mileage allowed, the task nmst be rather attractive to the more di.stant otticials. The new arrival is conducted to the turnkey's office to be measured, and to undergo a physical and moral ex- amination for fitness, for place, and identification in case of escape; whereupon he receives the striped uniform, and his hair is clipped very short. A second and less agreeable initiation awaits him at the hands of the old residents, consisting of hlaiiket-tossing, rail-riding, and other persecutions and indignities, regulated according to his tempera- ment. Those who take the fun in good humor are scxtn released and become favorites. But woe to him wlio shows obstinacy or cowardice ; his sufferings are aggravated and prolonged in proportion ; complaints will not save him. I ' ri\ I. 420 PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. The life of prisoners is not so severe as might bo expected. The bell rouses them at five to seven a. m., according to the season, and ten minutes later tlie cells are opened by the turnkey, permitting the nun to roam in the yard for half an hour. Fifteen niiu- utes are allowed for breakfast, and then on to work- shops, brickyard, or offices. The signal for dinner is given at half past 11 o'clock. Those who possess tea or coffee are given facilities to prepare the beverage, and at a sign the men fall into line for the dining-room, where two rows of tables groan under the abundant rations of meat and bread, with soup ad libitum. The turnkey overlooks the hungry army from behind an elevated desk, and gives the order to be seated. All are now on the qui vive for the next signal, to begin eating, which is obeyed with a will. Silence prevails, broken only by the oc- casional clatter of spoons, with which the more par- ticular have provided themselves, for the dangerous knives and forks have been replaced by the more nat- ural implements of the paradise era. A last rap closes the banquet, and the convicts march out wUli abated eagerness, removing the glossy evidence of the tooth and nail combat by a complacent wrist movement. The supper call is at half-past four, after which all are locked in. Those who have lamps or candles may read, play, or work, till nine, when lights are extin- guished, except on the lower story, where they burn all night to reveal any attempts at boring the wall. The work was largely in the hands of contractors, manufacturers of furniture, saddles, shoes, clotirui;,^ cigars, barrels, bricks, etc., each of whom emi^^loyt'd from 25 to 200 men. The prison provides all tlie needed shops, power, and guard. The custom of sending gangs to work outside the prison has been much restricted. Task work is most common, and on completing his share the convict may while away the time, cr, l>y f( K )i SUV 1 ch.ij men ea-jft rout orn^a A some educ£ sever fees o: anion 1 visitoi TJli; soniew its moi •iiid thj some ^e:,^1rd( aithouf taMisb «in(l wa TJlO UK teraet cniui;, must tJio jiun prisons Won,,, in Calif; a Veiy |. cuous in <'e(le(| 01 J,''"nMini ROUTINE AND ATTRACTIO^'^S, m extra work, earn money wherewith to purcliase better food, and articles of luxury, even daily papers. Many save considerable sums. The upper floor of one of the buildings forms the chapel, where sabbath service is conducted by clergy- iiKu volunteers to audiences of 300 to 500 men, who eajjjerly welcome any change in the monotony of their routine. Among the attractions are a fair choir, and an organ purchased by contributions from the prisoners. After service a few of the talented convicts instruct some 250 companions in rudimentary branches, an educational process which is fostered by a library of several thousand well-thumbed volumes, and by the fees of visitors. Literary entertainments are arranged among them, and, at times, lectures are delivered by visitors. This is not a very repulsive picture of a prison, somewhat different from the Labyrinth of Cnosus with its monster and starvation, or the dreary eryastula, and tlie Jullianum with its deadly fumes, or the loath- some dungeons of the middle aijes. Yet the ancients regarded prisons merely as places of detention, and, altliough Plato advocated penal and penitentiary es- tahlishments, the second phase developed very slowly, and was accepted in France only after the revolution. Tlie more recent knowledge of the necessity to coun- teract the tending of prisons to become schools for crime, and the introduction of reformatory systems, nmst be traced to the noble efforts of Howard, and the Immane crusades of Fry, while the idea of making prisons self-supporting finds its origin in the political economy problems of our era. California has not yet had time or moans to develop a very perfect system. The one great evil is promis- cuous intercourse, whereby the young and less corrupt are exposed to the contagious influence of the har- dened criminal, and the want of an efficient check on gamhlnig and other vices, as maybe learned from the roi»orts of the connnittees. '0lt' PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. Good conduct is promoted by a credit of five days in the month to every prisoner, witli an hicrease of one day every two years, till the allowance reaches ten days. This is deducted from his term of ser- vitude. Pardons are also held out besides other rewards. Punishment has become more humane, and consists mainly in reducing privileges and good -conduct time. IJesperate characters wear chahi and ball, and are prohibited from holding intercourse. The lash which was once applied for all offences, and periodically to captured fugitives, has almost fallen into disuse, and so has the dark dungeon, although both remain to inspire a salutary terror. Flogging was also admin- istered with a long paddle-formed board, with perfora- tions, through which tlie flesh was forced by every blow. Even more feared than this was the torture by water, which consisted of a jet played upon the mouth and nose of the victim. So severe was tliis punishment that if the same jet were let fall upon the stomach it would cause death. Tlie numerous attempts at escape form interesting episodes of prison history. The thought of liberty here swallows all other thought, and life itself appears the inferior gift of heaven, as Drydcn puts it. The great leisure enjoyed allows the mhid ample time to fondle the alluring hope ; to dwell upon the many records of fellow-prisoners who have with varying success scaled the walls, filed bars, undermined cells, assumed disguises, or otherwise hoodwhiked the guard ; and to evolve plans worthy of a Dtedalus, attended by equally daring exploits. The most famous stampede was that of Jul} --, 1862, when a general outbreak took place, owing immediately, it was claimed, to the starvation regime of Commissary Jones. Nothing occurs to arouse suspicion although the plot muat be widely known. The dinner hour has passed A SAN QUENTIN ESCAPE. 423 and a gang of over 100 convicts is marching through the gate in the rear of the prison, when sut!denly some fifteen separate from the rest and rush for the front ^ate, securing the guard. Lieutenant-governor Chel- lis notices the movement from his office, and hastens for safety to the adjoining bedroom, but the door is broken in, and he is brought forth to give orders to the gate-keeper to surrender the keys. The order is given but the keeper bravely refuses to comply, as- sertuig that they are not in his possession, but the convicts are not to be deceived ; a struggle ensues ; tlie keys are snatched fr-nn him and the gates thrown <>l)cn amidst shouts of liberty. The cry is echoed by the crowd, amidst a general rush to join the leaders regardless of the volleys from the guards. The men from the workshops bring their axes, files, and other tools, while others storm the armory, overlooking a case of sabres in their hurry, and obtainnig only one loaded revolver, besides uncharged pistols and some other arms. Two to three hundred convicts have now passed tlie gate bearing the governor of the prison with thorn, but of these fifty are quickly secured by the captain of the guard, while the rest proceed in a body along the wall to station 5 on the hill. The guard stands ready to sweep th«ir column with grapi - shot; but the convicts are prepared; the captured goverFior is placed at the front to serve as shield, with a loaded pistol at his head to remind him of the func- tion. "For God's sake don't shoot 1" exchiiins the victim with uplifted hands. There is no time for hes- itation ; the guard turns the gun, discharges it into the water, and spikes it. This is more than they had expected, for the gun had been counted upon to silence the next one upon the adjoining hill. In thei» oxas- l»eration they reproduce the Tarpeian tragedy, and Kun with carriage follow the guard m his whi'-iiiig de- SClMlt. Their path now lies across the brickyard to station 424 PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. 10. Several volleys flash against them from the guns, but pass over their heads, so directed, no doubt, out of regard for the governor. The guard in pursuitare almost equally discriminating. In this way the main body advances along the Corte de Madera road, toward Mouiit Tamalpais, plunderiui; the houses in their way of every thing portable, although not without expressing regrets at the unavoidable ne- cessity. Indeed, they are polite enough to leave the governor his watch, remarking that it would be too mean to commit detailed robbery after stealing his whole person. Their patience, however, is sorely tried by his corpulency, which is becoming an obstacle to progress, despite the frequent reminders api)lied to his body in the form of knife-prods. A wild, bare- backed pony is produced to accelerate his motion, but either the weight or earnest entreaties of the governor save him from the dreaded ride. At four p. M. a slough is reached, and the panting hostage is compelled with the rest to wade chin-deep in the miry water. On gaining the high fence beyond, his slimy corpulency is found too heavy to be hoisted over, and is released. This act is suicidal, for the guards are no longer restrained by his presence, and resume firing with telling eft'ect. By this time the news of the outbreak hai spread far and wide, and aware of the danger to life and proi)- erty, every able-bodied man in the San Rafael district who can lay his hands upon a weapon and a horse musters for the chase. About 200 well-equipped men close in upon the gang. Behig comparatively unarnud the convicts find resistance useless, and the affair be- comes a ixanio of hide and seek. Bv twiliijht nearly the whole nundier is secured, and at eiyrht p. m. the prison gate closes behind them. ^Meanwhile a side-play lias been performed on the bay. A party of a dozen fugitives or so, whose dilut(<l Viking blood still tingles to the harp of Necken, liavf boarded the prison sloop Pike Coiinty. The hawsers ANOTHER ATTEMPTED ESCAPR 425 are cut amid a whiz of bullets ; the distance from the wharf is rapidly increasuig, and so are their aspira- t i< >ns ; but, alas 1 one thing has been left out of account ; tlie non-consulted mistletoe proves in this instance to 1)0 a treacherous mud-bank, and hope, their Baldur, fulls. The first roll-call showed over thirty missing but this imnibcr was reduced to less than a dozen by sub- sequent captures. Ten were killed and thirty wounded. On receiving the first exaggerated accounts, the chief v>f police at San Francisco obtained full powers from the governor. He engaged a steamer, and arrived on the sjx)t at five o'clock the following morn- ing, with a body of armed citizens, but nothing re- mained to be done. The Sacramento Ranjiers were also turned out for the pursuit. A reward of fifty dollars was offered for each fugitive. On Saturday April 2, 1864, a determined attempt at flight was made by a gang composed chiefly of Mexicans, under the leadership of Tom King. One jiar+y, engaged in unloading, broke from the work ckiring the afternoon, ami began to scale the wall. The guard fired, but twenty -three succeeded in gain- ing the brick-yard, where another party joined them. The fu<j:itives armed themselves with stones and bricks, and attacked station 4, evidently with a view to (•a})ture the gun and turn it to account. The four guards at this point found that the guns would iutt work, spiked it, and rushed for the guard-house; hut only two reached it, for the next moment the convicts had possession of the place, and sent the other two whirling over the embankment. The ad- vantage was momentary onl}'; the gun on the otlier side opened fire, and the guard came charging on lioise and foot. In twenty minutes the capt(»rs of the Imttery surrendered and were conducted to tlioir cells, with a loss of five killed and a number of Wounded. Many ingenious individual attempts have been ! II. 426 PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. made at various times to escape, notable among them being that of E. A. Strickland from San Mateo, who after three months devoted labor upon his lock, and having in readiness a scaling-hook and rope, stepped from his cell only to encounter the six-shooter of the officer who for several days liad been watching him. Ten days in the dungeon and a severe whipping M'as the penalty for this attempt. The prison commission of Nevada took possession of the six-cell jail with twenty acres of land, and a fine inexhaustible quarry near Carson, purchased for $80,000 on the 1st of March, 1864. The same year another building with thirty-two cells was constructed by the convicts at an outlay of only $4,000 besides their labor ; and several other structures rose during the following years. Still more cxcitnig than the escapes at San Quentiii was that which took place at the I\evada state prisiMi. Carson, on Sunday September 17, 1871. A well arranged plan had been formed with the aid, it was rumored, of several outside and powerful coadjutors. The projector was a young horse-thief nanud Clifford, who, in conjunction with a numerous staff, had for some time been gathering information oi' routine and Imildings to guide tlio operations, and had Collected all available scraus of iron and other material for tools and sluiig-shot. It was the custom to allow prisoners the use of tlie western-cell room on Sundays, free from direct super- vision, and of this they had availed themselves on two preceding Sabbaths to cut through the ceiling into the loft, and thence through the wall hito the adjoining building on the east. A signal had been agreed upon, and shortly before six o'clock, when tlm cells were to be locked for the night, the plotters haJ nearly all crept through the ojiening, and had takm up positions in the adjoining loft, sixty feet distant, over the room of the deputy warden, while a few tlo- termined fellows waited below for the captain of tlio anii.v B, guar '•atli ei-.s (unfr took tlirou witJic NEVADA PRISON ESCAPE. m guard. Soon the jingle of keys called to action ; and as the captain and his attendant entered they were stunned, one with a slungshot, the other with a bottle. Several more jx)unced in to deal the coup de griice, but merciful sentiments prevailing, they were thrown into a cell and locked up. The next moment the convicts were climbing the cell tiers, for the hole, to join their companions who had already broken through the ceilinj; in the east buildinjj and were tumblinij down upon tJie deputy warden. This startled func- tionary was awed into submission, but soon made his escape to securer quarters. The noise had caused no loss consternation on the lower story, where Lieu- tenant-governor Denver was entertaining a party of hulies at dinner. Seizing a pistol he rushed out to meet the crowd as it came pouring down the stairs, led by ClitFord. The first shot almost crippled the leader, but the mass pressed onward, overpowering him, and makhig him the target of his own pistol. At this critical moment, Deadman, a life convict, who acted as servant to the officers, and had followed his master faithfullv, seized a chair, and whirlintr it with savage fury stretched several convicts on the floor and l)itchod one over the balustrade. This act diverted attention and saved the life of the wounded governor; l)ut his heroic champion had also to succumb to num- bers, and fell senseless after demolishing another chair upon the assailants. Meanwhile the bleeding Clifford led on to the armory, wrenching open the lock with suspicious ease, and soon the firing aimounced that arms had been secured. Believing the prisoners safe under lock and key, the guard had abandoned itself to the leisure of the Sab- hath, leaving no sentinel on the wall. As the i)rison- ers entered the guard-house, there were none to confront them except the guard Isaacs, who fearlessly took his stand in the yard with a six-shooter, firing in through the windows and receiving the return fire without flinching. His right knee being shattered by 1 lull "■ til fai PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. a bullet, he coolly leant over upon the left leg, and continued to fire until a shot in the hip brought him down, fatally wounded. Struck with admiration at his courage, the prisoners refrained from doing him further harm, and merely secured his pistol. The resolute stand of the guard had caused many irreso- lute convicts to return to the shelter of their cells, and soon a reenforcement of three ijuards and two citi- zens came up. Two of the guards were speedily placed hors de combat, while a citizen, whose rash- ness led him too near the windows of the guard-house, received a bullet in the head from which he did not recover. During the confusion Denver's little daujfhter found her way into the yard, and ran heedlessly into the range of the fire, as if to shield the brave Isaacs. A French prisoner, employed in the guard-room, rushed forward on seeing the danger of the little one, and bore her off, leaving the terrified mother in an agony of doubt whether her child had not escaped one danijcer only to encounter another. A youni; woman had also noticed the child, and impelled by feminine devotion, she had followed, only to flutter in bewilderment over the blood-stained ground before the windows with the belclihit; guns. Once more the gallantry of La Grande Nation was displayed as the Frenchman dashed to the rescue. Of the reenforce- ment one citizen alone remained unscathed. A man with a buggy who happened to be at tlie prison when the firing began, hurried to town to give the alarm ; but before the sheriff and his dozen f dlow- ers arrived, twenty -nine of the most desperate con- victs had escaped, some badly wounded, leaving behind forty -three comrades who had been restrained by force and fear, or whose term was nearly expired. A large force of citizens also appeared equipped from the state armory, followed by two militia comi)anies from Virginia city, who were already in pursuit in different directions before midnight. FUKTHER NEVADA ESCAPES. HI Guided by a big negro the majority of the fugitives sought the mountain range to the east, but shortly after, small parties were reported at various points, demanding food and clothes, or obliging some black- smith to remove their irons. Some appeared at an Ind- ian camp, where two assumed the dress of the warriors, and a third donned the habiliments of a female aboriginal. The conuniseration of a ranchero was ex- cited by meeting a man devoid of all clothing save his drawers, shivering before the piercing wind which swept the valley during the night. A l»arty of six came upon a German charcoal burner, and tying him to a tree they made off with his four horses. In this position he was found six hours later by pursuing citi- zens, muttering vengeance loud and deep. Despite the pressure of hunger and weakness from long confinement the convicts baffled their pursuers for a long time, while reports of robberies and nmrders poured in from all directions. After a reprehensible delay of eight days a reward was offered of $200 or 8300 per head. This proved an incentive, and sev- eral captures were made, although not without desper- ate encounters wherein three citizens lost their lives. In one place three ranchmen followed four armed con- victs, and watching their opportunity they covered them with rifles. The prisoners offered the tempting bribe of $2,500, to be released, assuring the captors tliat a secret message to a certain person would be re- sponded to by a masked man who should pay the money. Although tempted to secure this accomplice, and j>erhaps the money, the captors preferred the surer reward of $900. The story was connnented upon as indicating powerful coadjutors, and the inac- tioji of the deputy warden during the melee was se- verely criticised. At 3 o'clock p. M. the 28th of October, 1877, an- other break occurred in the Nevada state prison which narrowly esca|ied being a serious aft'air. A deputy warden, MattheWisjn, on entering the slioe- ■1 %' H 430 PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. I shop was seized by six convicts and borne to the ground. " Liberty or death," they cried. ** You die, but we will be free." " You had better be quiet," said Matthewson, " You will be shot." Meanwhile Gonard, a captain of the guard, had been seized by three prisoners, who told him if he would go quietly with them he should not be hurt. Gonard likewise expostulated, telling them such ac- tion would bring upon them certain death. The prison-breakers all belonged to the shoe-shop, and were armed with knives, by one of which the keeper was cut in the groin. Both parties now endeavored to reach the gate ; but the alarm was given and the i;uard stood firm. The rinjjj- leaders were fired upon, and several of them fell, one Johnson fatally wounded. Mathena, who was badly injured, when captured cried, "I am lostl My last chance is gone I " and endeavored to kill himself. In Oregon the first convicts were hired out to re- sponsible persons for support and safe-keeping; but it soon became apparent that a penitentiary was needed, and during the legislative session of 1851 three com- missioners were appointed to superintend the erection of a building. Nothing was done, however, before the meeting of the legislature of 1852-3, when an- other trio was appointed which set to work with a will, and in 1856 an $85,000 building stood ready. The leasing system was resumed between 1859 and 1862 after which the governor became ex-officio su- perintendent. Since 1864 every governor has ap- pointed a superintendent. In 1866 the state prison was fixed at Salem, the present site, and a wooden jail erected at a cost of $38,000. In 1870, $50,000 was granted for a more substantial brick edifice of two stories, with basement, and two wings each 160 feet in length. The wooden prison formed one of t)ic OREGON, WASHINGTON, AND IDAHO. 431 workshops, devoted to carpentry, tannery, worked with the aid of water power. In 1874, 150 acres of garden and farm land were already under cultivation, and this, together with the brick-making department, helped considerably to sustain the establishment, so much so, that the earnings of the two years 1873-4 amounted to $65,260 and $65,269, while the expenses were but $78,047 ; but the average number of pris- oners for the two years was a little over 100 with not a single female. The morit-book system worked well. When a pris- oner had earned not less than four marks, and not over six, during the six months, he received a credit of one day for each mark. When such credit-marks were earned during the succeeding semesters, he re- ceived an additional day for each, until five days had been gained for each mark. This time was deducted from the sentence, while the allowance was lost by breaking rules or attempting to escape. At the ex- piration of his term he received fifty cents for each credit mark, less loss of tools, loss of material, and waste. In 1861 the Oregon state penitentiary received the convicts from Washington at $3 75 a week, the lessees liaving liberty to work them at times. In 1871 the Washington convicts were kept at Steilacoom jail, pending the futile attempts to obtain an appropriation for a territorial penitentiary upon the twenty-seven acres donated on McNeill island opposite Steilacoom. By act of February 22d, 1873, congress made an ap- propriation, and in November a wing with forty-two cells was completed at a cost of $37,800. In 1866, tjie Boise county jail served as territorial prison for tlie eleven convicts of Idaho. Miners would not em- ploy them, and no work could be procured wherewith to make them contribute to the cost of maintenance. Deer Lodge City, as the pretty little village situ- ated in the valley of that name is called, is the site of the Montana penitentiary. The Deer Lodge river 432 rAClFIC COAST rRisoxs. V.i is tho principal tributary, or rather, tlio upper part of tlio Clark fork of the Columbia, which luimo it takes some 2,000 miles northwest from its source, after hav- ing rccciv(Hl as tributari(!S the Blackfoot, Bitterroot, and Flathead rivers, and numerous smaller streams. The sum of $50,000 was appropriated by congress, in 18G9, to build a prison at some place to be desig- nated by the legislative assembly of Montana. Deer Lodge was the point chosen. Twelve acres of the public domain were marked off as the site, and th(! erection of a buildhig was by law placed in cliarge of tho United States marshal, William F. Wheeler, to whom I am indebted for these fticts. The building was completed and accepted in tlic summer of 1871, the appropriation barely covering the cost of the stone walls, roof, floor, and fourteen brick cells, six by eight feet in size, and grating for the lower windows only. The building was eighty by forty feet; its walls were two feet thick, and twent)'-two feet high. A mansard roof afforded room for a third tier of cells. The building has since been completed and furnished. A high board fence was also constructed, enclosing a spaco 300 feet square for a prison yard. The marshal still retained control of the building, and on the 2d of July, 1871, opened it for the reception of territorial and United States convicts. Twelve criminals were at that time re- ceived. Then, and subsequently, besides furniture and fix- tures of every kind furnished, the United States paid all prison expenses, the salaries of officers, sui)erintend- ent, guards, and physician, who were supplied witli rooms and subsistence, the clothing and food of pris- oners, fuel and lights, and the territory of Montana paid the general government one dollar a day for the keeping of each of its convicts. Becoming impatient of govermental leading-strings the territory asked and obtained control from the loth of May, 1873, to the 1st of August, 1874; by which MONTANA. 433 fix- )aitl nid- Ivitli bris- tana till' ings hicli time, concluding they did not know how to keep a j)rison, the JegisTature begged their guardian at Wash- ington to take back his pretty present, as they found it somewhat expensive. They had nut guests enough to make it profitable. At first the cost to the United States of each pris- oner, \ter diem, was $1 86, while the territory paid ^'1 03. Back under the management of Marshal Wheeler agahi, and the Ist of August, 1874, for the first year the cost was $1 66 a day for each prisoner, for the second year $1 45, and for the third year .«;! 36. "The greatest misfortune to the prisoners," writes Marshal Wheeler to me the 23d of October, 1877, "is that they have no regular employment. The town being so small it does not find it profitable to hire prison labor, because the prisoners cannot go outside of the prison-yard, and there is no manufac- tuiing done in the town. All work on the improve- ments done about the prison has been done by the prisoners, and only the material paid for by tlie gov- ernment. The prisoners make all their own clothes, C(M»k, saw wood, and do all that is done for the prison and themselves. They have a great deal of spare time, and would be glad to be employed. We have but few books, but get gratis many newspapers and magazines, which are eagerly read by the prisoners. All of them have improved in reading, writing, and the common branches." For cleanliness, order, and health, the Montana, prison, though small, was a model. Religious ser- A ices were held on such Sundays as preaching could Ik> secured. No severer punishment was administered than loeking an offender in his cell, feeding him on bread and water, or if very refractory placing him in irons. During the first six years, out of eighty -three prisoners there were four escapes, and one recapture, leaving in fact three. The United States marshal was ex-officio superin- Cal. Int. Poc. 28 Ml 434 PACIFIC COAST PRISONS. tendent, with a salary of $1,200 a year, and having for his assistants four guards of his own appointing and removing, one of whom was called deputy super- intendent, and acted as chief in the absence of the marshal. The salaries of the assistants were $1,000 a year each; the physician was paid by fees. All expenses were paid monthly on vouchers mailed to the attorney-general with an explanatory letter. Alaska has had few prison facilities to speak of. Under the Russian regime, malefactors were confined at the forts. For a time after American occupaticn the only civil rule was the local municipal govern- ment of Sitka, and that was maintained without authority of law. Under an act of congress in 1853, A. W. Babbitt, then secretary of the territory, was authorized to expend $20,000 in building a penitentiary for Utah. The building was placed in what was then known as the Big Field Survey, made under the provisional laws of the state of Deseret. The building was com- pleted in 1854; Daniel Caru was elected warden, and Wilford Woodruff, Albert P. Rock wood, and Sanmol R. Richards inspectors. There was in prison an average of nine prisoners for some time, many coming and going, and but few serving out their term. These new villains cost the new territory about five thousand dollars a year. They could have been hanged immediately after conviction for less money. As the years went by, and the gen- eral government failing in its appropriations, the build- ings became somewhat dilapidated, and there were several escapes. Prior to Juiy, 1875, Arizona had no prison. Tie judge in sentencing criminals named some county jail as their place of confinement, and of such prisont i.s the sheriffs of the respective counties had charge. No state convict up to this time had ever served liis full term, but alwavs escaped. In 1875 the legisla- ture passed a law locating the prison at Yuma, and XJTAH AND ARIZONA. 435 appropriating $25,000 for building purposes. Con- victs were kept in the Yuma jail up to July 1876, when they were removed to the prison then ready. There were then seven only, and during the next six months three more were added, making ten prisoners in the Arizona penitentiary on the 1st of January 1877. CHAPTER XIX. SOME INDIAN EPISODES. Believe me, it is not necessary to a man's respectability that he shonld oommit a murder. Many a man has passed through life most respectt..'; , without attempting any species of homicide. A man came to me as the can- didate for the place of mv servant, just then vacant. He had the reputation of having dabuled a little in our art, some said, not without merit. What startled me, however, was, that he supposed this art to be part of the regular duties in my service. Now that was a thing I would not allow. So I said at once, ' if once a man indulges himself in murder, very soon he comes to think little of robbing '; and from robbing he comes next to drinking and Sabbath -breaking, and from that to incivility and procrastination. Once ])e- gin upon this downward path yon never know where yon are to stop. Many a man has dated his ruin irom some murder or other that perhaps he thought little of at the time. — De Qmncey. The natives of California were quick to learn the purchasing power of gold, but they did not thereby become greedy of it like their white brethren. When they wanted a sack of flour, or a few pounds of to- bacco, or a bottle of brandy, some of them went to the river and washed out the gold necessary for their purchases. They were badly cheated at first, having no knowledge of the value white men put upon the metal, and they would as readily give a handful of it as a smaller quantity, if they had it, for whatever struck their fancy, something to eat, or to drink, a gaudy handkerchief, or a garment. Time and intercourse with the more cunning race sharpened their wits a little. Then they adopted a method of their own in making purchases. In parties of five or ten they would first stroll through the storo, carefully observe several articles, and settle in their own mind what they would buy, but saying nothing to the shop-keeper. Then they would retire to a little (486) distj groi tJiey retuj their ITpoi perhj the s Jate, give well ; crease eratioi the ai wliich buy bi they w ing mo each tij until ti The Califori In the blanket or $5 shopkee of sava^ a<'orns, ill tile gi i"g 1500 liandken st^rape. h()])pers, pound; While on the S< to his cai f«d belt ^^ught it STANISLAUS GAMBLERS. 4S7 distance, and seating themselves in a circle on the ground gravely discuss matters. One after another tliey then went to the store and made their purchases, returning afterward to their place in the circle. And their method of barter was frequently in this wise: Upon a leaf, or piece of paper, one would pour out perhaps a teaspoonful of gold-dust, and taking it to the shopkeeper, point to the article desired and ejacu- late, ughl which being interpreted meant, "I will give you this for that.' If the shopkeeper took it, well ; if he refused it the Indian would withdraw, in- crease the pile of dust, and return, repeating the op- eration until the amount was large enough to procure the article. Again, if it was biscuits they desired, of which a teaspoonful of dust in the days of '48. would buy but half a dozen, and they wanted several dozen, they would go and come, never at any one time bring- ing more than the first measure of dust, receiving six each time until they had secured all they required, or until their dust was gone. The Mexican serape was quite becoming to the California root digger, and took his fancy wonderfully. In the absence of a serape, however, an American blanket would do, and for this, of a quality worth $4 or $5, they cheerfully paid Weber, the Coloma shopkeeper, $100. Before the end of 1848 thousands of savages, who up to that had lived on roots and acorns, and had paraded the forests as naked as Adam ill the garden, were arrayed in gorgeous apparel cost- ing $500, conspicuous in which was gaudy calico, red handkerchiefs, hat, shirt, pantaloons, and blanket or serape. For food, in place of acorns and mashed grass- hoppers, they purchased almonds and raisins at $16 a pound; and for a bottle of whiskey they paid $IG. While the Reverend Mr Colton was playing miner on the Stanisla'j!), in the autumn of 1848, there came to his camp three wild men, attracted thither by a rod belt which each of them wanted ; so they first bought it and then gambled to see which should have i ''li 438 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. it. "They could speak only their native dialect," said Colton, "not a word of which I could understand. We had to make ourselves intelligible by signs. They wanted to purchase the belt, and each laid down a piece of gold, which were worth in the aggregate sonic $200. I took one of the pieces and gave the Indian to whom it belonged the belt. They made signs for a piece of coin. I oft'ered them an eagle but it was not what they wanted ; a Spanish mill dollar, but they wanted something smaller; a fifty-cent piece, and they signified it would do. Taking the coin they fastened it in the end of a stick so as to expose nearly the entire circle, and set it up about forty yards dis- tant. Then they cast lots, by a bone which tliey threw into the air, for the order in which they should discharge their arrows. The one who had the first shot drew his long, sinewy bow and missed ; the sec- ond, he missed ; the third, and he missed, though the arrow of each flew so near tlie coin that it would have killed a deer at that distance. The second now shot first and grazed the coin; then the third, who broke his string and shot with the bow of tlie second, but missed. And now the first took his turn and struck the coin, whirling it off" at a great distance. The other two gave him the belt which he tied around liis head instead of a blanket, and away they started over the hills full of wild life and glee, leavinif the coin as a thing of no importance in the bushes where it had been whirled." To the discharged volunteer, Henry I. Simpson, who was there in August 1848, the natives at work near Mormon island appeared exceedingly singular, They " were dressed in strange fantastic guise ; in- stead of the breech clout, which used to be tlieir chief article of the toilet, gaudy calicoes, bright colored handkerchiefs, and strips of red cloth were showily exhibited about their persons. The first party with whom we came up, consisted of an old Indian with his squaw, and a youth about fifteen ; they seemed to ABORIGINAL MINERS. 43d be working on their own account, though most of the Indians work by the day for some employer, who furnishes them with food, and pays a regular p«3rdiom — sometimes as much as twenty dollars a day, but more generally at the rate of an ounce and a half of gold, the current rate of which is from ten to twelve dollars per ounce. When we came within sight of this party, they were in a short, deep ravine, very busily employed digging with small machetes, or Spanish knives; and as soon as they perceived us, they looked with some vexation of manner, as though they feared we were coming to interfere with their rights of dis- covery. I may here remark that a nice regard is al- most always had for such rights. A party finding a good bed of gold, is seldom or never interfered with by others — at least the immediate vicinity of their operations is not trespassed upon. As an evidence of this feeling of natural justice, I learned that there was, at the mill of Captain Sutter, a fine bank of de- posit which had not been touched, out of respect to the rights of the captain, who, of course, had no real ownership in the matter. The Indians soon became satisfied that we had no intention of trespassing, and began their work again, the old fellow jabbering away in bad Spanish in reply to our inquiries. He had about his person, in an uncouth-looking buckskin poucli, from six to eight ounces of gold, as I should judge, which he exliibited with some exultation. While we were engaged with the old man, the boy, who had progressed some few yards ahead in his work, uttered a sudden, ugh I which is tlie Indian expression of wonder. We all turned toward him, and saw hiin holding up, with an expression of irrepressible delight, a large lump of gold incrusted with earth and gravel, which seemed as big as a man's fist. The old fellow rushed toward him with quite an un-Indian-like eager- ness, and taking it from his hand, commenced rapidly cleaning it of the dirt and gravel, which he accom- plished with peculiar skill, and in less than a minute 440 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. exhibited to us a lump of apparently pure gold, which I should judge weighed at least six or seven ounces. We all examined it closely and with open admiration. Whether it was a craving of avarice that seized my heart, or because I admired the specimen as one of the finest I had seen, I will not pretend to determine; but, as it was, I felt a strong de- sire to possess the piece. I suppose my feelings were legible in my countenance, for the old Indian looked knowingly into my eyes, and then, after a few words in his own language with his squaw, he took the gold in his hand and proffered it to me, taking hold, at the same time, of a bright scarlet sash which I wore around my waist, thus evidently offering a trade. ISIy sash was a fine one, and though worth by no means the intrinsic value of the gold, would perhaps have sold for much more in that region, for the Indians had been known to gratify their fancies at much more exorbitant prices : it was not this, however, that made me hesitate, but rather that it seemed like s}iec- ulating upon the ignorance of the savage. ' Take it, Harry,' said Charley to me, ' I do not like to im- pose on the old fellow, Charley,' said I. * Pooh, some less scrupulous person wiii sell him a few yards of printed calico for it ; so it amounts to the same thing in the end.' Doubtless the Indian thought that our hesitation arose from a desire to enhance my demand for the sash, for he held a few minutes longer consultation with his squaw, and then commenced un- doing his pouch, as if he intended to offer an additional price. I shock my head, however, to indicate tliat he should stop, and undoing the sash I gave it in ex- change for the gold. Certainly vanity is a sweet morsel to the human heart ; even the habitual stoicism of the savage yields to its magic influence. No sooner had the old man obtained possession of the coveted treasure, than both his wife and son gathered around him, forgetting entirely their work in extravagant admiration of the gaudy plaything they had purchased 80 fai joym( Sa 1848* "On refresi tlian small and re knocks meat, lizatior liowevc has nij Woman warm v ^\oods. among •'*^ts as i wliicli s In a approac cxperiei Indians vesting the whit been o and the' th.Qy wt* prices in this, the^ a'ld dig I ^\'ag(^ns r of all kii one hunc ^i'hI joine Tlie first Island, oil SUTTER ON INDIANS. 441 BO far beyond its value. We left them to their en- joyment, and proceeded on." Says one who visited the Stanislaus in October 1848 of some natives he saw at Wi»rk in that vichiity: " On the plain we fell in with the camp of Mr Mur- phy, who invited us into his tent, and set before us refreshments that would have graced a scene less wild than this. His tent is pitched in the midst of a small tribe of wild Indians who gather gold for him, and receive in return provisions and blankets. He knocks down two bullocks a day to furnish them with moat. Though never before within the wake of civi- lization, they respect his person and property. This, liowever, is to be ascribed in part to the fact that ho has married the daughter of the chief — a young woman of many personal attractions, and full of that warm wild love which makes her the Haideo of the woods. She is the queen of the tribe, and walks among them with the air of one on whom authority sits as a native grace — a charm which all feel, and of which she seems the least conscious." In a melancholy strain, which, coming from him ai)proaches tiie grotesque, Sutter thus describes his experiences in mining with the natives : " Even the Indians had no more patience to work alone, in har- vesting and threshing my large wheat crop out, as t];c white men had all left, and other Indians had been engaged by some white men to work for them, and they commenced to have some gold for which tliey were buying all kinds of articles at enormous prices in the stores; which when my Indians saw tills, they wished very umch to go to the mountains and dig gold. At last I consented, got a number of wagons ready, loaded them with provisions and goods of all kinds, employed a clerk, and left with about one hundred Indians, and about fifty Kanakas who had joined those I brought with me from the Islands. The first camp was about ten miles above Mormon Island, on the south fork of the American river. In il !■ 442 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. a few weeks we became crowded, and it would no more pay, as my people made too many acquaintances. I broke up the camp and started on the march fur- ther south, and located my next camp on Sutter creek, and thought that I should there be alone. The work was going on well for awhile, until throe or four travelling grog-shops surrounded me, at from one and a half to two miles distance from the camp; th3n of course, the gold was taken to these places, for drinking, gambling, etc., and then the following day they were sick and unable to work, and bocauie deeper and more indebted to me, and particularly tlio Kanakas. I found that it was high time to quit this kind of business, and lose no more time and nK)ncy. I therefore broke up the camp and returned to the fort, where I disbanded nearly all tlic people who had worked for me in the mountains diyctxinij yrold. Tliis whole expedition proved to be a heavy loss to me." One Sunday in August I80O, in tlie town of Sonora, a person called Cave in conversation with a gambh r named ^lason, pointing to an Indian wlio was loun.;- injj about the street, offered to lav a wager that lie could induce the native to rob or kill lum. Mason accepted the offer. Cave then drew the native aside, told him that Mason had a larjjje sum of monev liidden ; told him where he should find it, and that if he would rob or kill ISIason he should have half of it and no harm should befall him. Placing an unloaded pistol in his hand Cave urged hhn on to the consununation of the deed. Irresolute, bewildered, worked upon more by the exhortations of Cave than any desin^ to do wrong, the native hesitatingly entered Mason's house, looked around and came out without touching a thing. Mason was watching for him and as soon as he was fairly on the street again shot him dead. For specimens of Indian warfare we must go nortli. The natives of California valley were a mild race, and when the miners shot them down the survivors seld( bord quite peop digni Di iiig fi ei-n ( si>irit( no w< Coi bv tlu and S cry, ai invadii .strono'( iSIiasta tlie R,) to the Jo; til Tijisey, diplomt Whi, time Soineti IH'acom On Work ni wJiite ni f'oine in Women, j'lg 'sti( land yoi Card ity, tellj same ol J"1I1," h "lortisin cominor o o t SULUX THE SHASTA. 4«S seldom retaliated. In the vicinity of the Oregon border, however, on both sides of the line, it was quite different. The inhabitants were a bolder, braver people, wiio would not tamely submit to every in- dignity. During the year 1852 there were several now niin- in*; fields discovered in nt)rthern California and south- eru Oregon, and the natives thereabout bein<j: high- spirited and strong, and the miners overbearing, it is no wonder there were many outrages on both sides. Conspicuous among the savages was a Shasta, called by the white men Scarface, and another named Bill, and Sullix the bad-tempered, who in cunning, treach- ery, and cruelty, were equal to any of the white men invading their domains — only the latter were the stronger. E. Steele, of Yreka, was a favorite of the Shastas, who named him Jo Lane's Brother. Among tlie Rogue river chiefs, some of whose people belonged to the Shasta nation, were Tolo and Jolm, Sam and Jo ; then at the foot of the Siskivou mountains, was Tipsey, or the Hairy, second to none in war and diplomacy. White men imposed upon the Shastas, and from time to time these chiefs had killed white men. Sometimes Steele played successfully the part of pt'acemaker ; oftener there was fighting. (hi one occasion, while a surveying party was at work in his vicinity, Scarftice said to them, "You white men who are so good and so great, v.liy do you come into our countrv and kill our men, ravish our Women, and go around witli a com[)ass and diaiii cry- ing * stick, stuck,' set up a few stakes and call the land your own when you have not paid a cent for it^" Cardwell, an old Indian-fighter of that vicin- ity, tells many stories of this aboriginal. "This same old Sullix sat upon one of the sills of my mill," he says, "while I was at work boring and mortising on it, watching the road alive witli men counng into the valley after the discovery of the «• 444 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. Jacksonville mines, and he remarked to me that it had never been the intention of the Indians to give up the country, but they had meant to let a few whites settle here, and get as nmch property around them as tliey could, and then go to work to wipe them out; but ihey were discouraged by the unex- pected influx of people. He then consoled himself by telling me one of his adventures. Some time a^o, with two other Indians, he was on the Klamath river, and late one day they saw two white men slip- ping along and trying to avoid being seen. He and his companions watched them, and observing where they camped that night, stole up and murdered them both. He seemed to rejoice over the bloody deed. 'But now,' said he, *we have waited too long to carry out our design ; the whites have overix>wered us.' He would work himself nito a great rage talk- ing of these things ; his eyes would fauly turn green. When he told me of the murder on the Klamath, I came near striking him with my chisel ; and I then and there made up my mind that if an opportunity ever presented I would kill that Indian. I afterwards had the pleasure of shooting him, but it did not kill him. This was in the subsequent Indian troubles." Cardwell states further that a few days after he had selected his mill site at the present town of Asli- land, Tipsey's band had a quarrel with a Shasta band over on the Klamath, in which Tipsey was wounded in the chin, and two of his men were killed. The bloody arbitrament having proceeded thus far peaceful negotiations were begun. The money value of the dead Shasta was about equivalent to Tipsey's chin. On the other side a Shasta chief was killed. "They set- tled the matter," continues Cardwell, "by standing oif the two chiefs, but several horses were demanded by Tipsey in payment for his two braves killed, with the understanding, however, that if Tipsey recovered, the horses were to be paid back as indemnity for the death of the Shasta chief. Tipsey recovered, and the Shas< niand and S( the S numb« also n each 8 battle Mr Li The S] and th( fire at fifteen, and go yards ( number and sho the field three da tlay. T us in al (German At n() found nil tJto Indii Com in devastati hor 9tli, house of of courte t'hild the] As the t') it, Mi that ther She was Xew Yor some time fluently, ers of pen THE SHASTAS IN BATTLE. 415 Shastas came over, about one hundred strong, and de- manded the horses. Tipsey refused to deliver tliein up, and sent to Butte creek for help, determined to give the Shastas battle. The reenforcements swelled the number to about one hundred and fifty. The Shastas also received reenforcements, making the number on each side about the same. Their manner of going to battle was extremely diverting. The prairie where ;Mr Lindsay Applegate's farm is, was the battle-field. The Shastas were collected on one side of the prairie, and the Rogue Riv( vs opposite. Each built a large fire at the place wuere they were assembled. Ten, fifteen, or perhaps fifty would start out from one side aiul go scampering across to within sixty or eighty yards of the opposite party, when about the same number would start after them, chasing them back, and shooting at them all the way to be chased over tlio fields in their turn. This kind of warfare lasted for tliree days, the contestants fighting about six hours a day. They then compromised the matter, reminding us in all this of the highly rational way France and Germany have of settling their quarrels. At no period in the history of savage warfare are found more brave deeds by heroic women than during tlic Indian troubles of 1855. Coming down the Rogue River valley, spreading devastation on every side, on the morning of Novem- ber 9th, a large band of savages appeared before the house of Mr Wagimer, who was absent on a mission of courtesy to Sailor diggings, leaving his wife and child there alone. As the Indians approached the house, and set fire to it, Mrs Wagoner knew that her fate was sealed, that there was no escape from death or dishonor. She was a beautiful woman, educated and refined, New York being her native state, and having been some time on the frontier, she spoke the local dialect fluently. But she made no attempt to use her pow- ers of persuasion at this juncture, knowing that such 44S SOME INDIAN EPISODES. effort would be useless. Tlio eneiuiesof her race were at her door; they were savanrfs, iimddeiied hy yours of wrong and the shedding of much innocent Wood. Tlieir wives and daughters liad been outraged and slain by the white men ; for a brief moment they might enjoy revenge. Barring tlie door, and refusing admittance to any, refusing even to parley, she proceeded (juietly to ar- range her beautiful hair, and dress herself with neat- ness and decorum, as if for an important occasion; then drawing to her the child, and f .Iding it to lier heart in the last embrace this side of eternitv, she seated herself in the middle of the rot)m, took the child in her lap, pillowed its head upon her breast, and thus, while singing to it a lullaby, she met her doom. She heeded not the approaching flames; slie heard not the savage yells; nor was she conscious of the glittering eyes that peered at her through the crevices of her cabin. Already in spirit she was far away from that horrible scene, safe with her child be- yond the skies. The leading events of the insurrectionary niovo- ment of the Modocs I have presented in my general history, but the subject is worthy of more extendid treatment than I was able then to give it. I have, therefore, reserved sufficient space for fuller detail in this volume. To the early incomers the Modocs were a wild, un- known people, and scarcely ever seen. Indeed, Modoc is a Shasta word, signifying stranger, or hos- tile, and so was taken up and a[)plied to these savages by white men hearing the Shastas speak of them. When Superintendent Huntington made the treaty of 1864 with the Klamaths and Modocs, that portion of the latter tribe which lived on the border of Cali- fornia, and acknowledged Keintpoos, — individually known in the settlements as Captain Jack — for tin ir chief, he had no great difficulty in gaining the consent of til even tlu; ol that J unfittt hud rl KhlMlU in tJie conseqi nwn ; a I'"rtuni 'i'Jicy \v that it ino/iy n Some mining c t'Hvn Jioi J'-'"glisIi ^var beini ^vere Jed str-engtJi 'h' huccv I'll is idea ii'»tives, ^i'I>erintt duties of and the ]V chin, pre northern ' ^■'''i<ly beg white niei •;i>i' rations ^'•^hiiient <. ft'e known U'v.s, toget ^■'<>us of th these India '"»-''i, and t. KEXTIPOOr, or. tAITAIX JACK. 447 of this pcrsonajTo to tho tonus of tlio treaty. Yot evoii tlien, circuiiistanocs existojl wliioli would luako the observance of the conditi«uis «)f tlio treaty excud- iiijily irksoiiio to Captain Jack, wln> had aetjuired tliat love of civilized as well as savage viei's wliii h unfitted him for oncagement on a res( r' ation. The hud character of the Sliastas, Pit Klvers, Lower Klanmths, and other trihcs occu}>ying tho country in the vichiity of tlie mines, was not altogether in consequence of their association with vicious white men ; such asst)ciation, however, gave them every op- jK»rtunity to practice whatever vices they might have. They were so given to quarreling among themselves, that it was only when at war with others tliat har- mony reigned in the household. Some of these savages were always hovering about mining camps and were often emi)loye<l us servants in town houses. They had a good unck'rstanding of the English language, and were not unaware of the civil war being carried on at the east, from which they were led to believe the white race, of whose numerical strength they had a feeble idea, was in a c«>n(lition to he successfullv attacked and possiblv exterminated. Tills idea prevailed t:> a great extent among all the natives, from the Missouri to the Pacific. When Superintendent Steele of California, entered upon the duties of his office, in 18G3, he found the Klamaths and the Modocs, under their chiefs Lalake and St hon- cliin, preparing to make war upon the settlers of northern California and southern Oregon, having al- ready begun stealing cattle and plundeiing and killing wjiite men travelling thnm^h their countrv. The operations of the 1st Oreg<m cavalry and the estab- lishment of Fort Klamath to prevent these outrages, are known to the readers of my history. These iiieas- uies, t»)gether with the killing of two of the most vi- cious of the Klamath sub-chiefs, resulted in bringing these Indians to a realization of the power of the white men, and the necessity of a treaty. 448 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. Ill February 18G4 these border Indians, who be- longed some to California and some to Oregon, but who knew nothing of the 42d degree of latitude whicji formed the boundary between, and who wcr'^ in tlio habit of visiting Yreka, the residence of Superintendent Steele, being led to fear that they would be punished by the Oregon troops for their misconduct, sought tiie advice of Steele who made with them a sort <f treaty of friendship and peace. This treaty was inude solely with Steele, and witnessed V)y a justice of tl e peace, E. W. Potter, and the sheriffc;f Siskiyou county, D. Kearn. It required of the Indians nothing but their promise to live in peace among each other and with the white men, to refrain from killing, and steal- ing from members of tlie several tribes, and from in- terrupting the travel of individuals of one trihe through the country of another. Tlie penalty for breaking this promise was to be given uji to the sol- diers f )r punishment. They were retjuired to respe( t the lives and property of white men, negroes, and Chinamen, allowhig them to pasb thnmgh the country claimed by them without molestation, or being taxed for right of way, or robbed of their property or mon(y, but they were permitted to charge a fair price for ferrying travellers across streams, or acting as guides if desired to do so. They agreed not to get drunk wlien they came to the settlcmentw, nor to steal while on these visits, nor to rob tlie sluice-boxes of Chinamen, but promised to remain out of town at night in tlu ir own cam] is. They also promised not to sell tJieir own or the cl.i!- dren of other Indians, or to sell their women to wliitc men unless the purchasers would go before a just id' and marry^ these women, nor to bring their arms into the settlements, except to be repaired. On the ])art of the white people it was agreed by Steele that tluy should be protected when they came to the settle- ments; but thty were counselled to obtain passes from the officers at the forts, and the ^lodocs and Klanij tlie in at Foi Tlie to jjial fe.ssioi) bo quei s "verit bis jud tlie mo wiiJi tl !>een in time, .si tjjat {)ui K la mat should ] <onj))re] f^tnietioi It is ( in FebrL «cttleniei f"»und ju, i!i prosti ^'aj)tnii '•V tJie (>•( •lotlocs 1 was conij 'I'ibi's, aiii ill Nv!|;;t \\ foriiMTjy ■ .^I'-'iiits wl •')iid from into Vivk, I'lf .'ittacli wliieli Avo '^"st Kivt ''•'•^i,!.i"Med tl y'''^^<! Jiim I "^ the ]\r< Cal. MOiXXJS ANO KLAMATHS. 449 Klainaths wtro informed that they were subject to th(3 iiis[)ecti<)n, protection, and restraint of the officers at Fort Klamath. The motive which led the California superintendent to make a treaty witli Indians whom, by his own con- fession, he knew did not belong to his district, might he (pustioncd — indeed was questioned afterward, with s verity; but there was no reason to doubt that to liis juilginent he seemed to be doing what was best at the moment. But he was not unaware that a treaty with the Klamatlis and Modocs had for a long time !»ern iu contemplation; and was likely to occur at any time, since congress had made an appropri.ation for tliat i»urpose, an<l the Klamatlis had been fed at Fort Khimatli during the winter; and his long experience slioiild have told him that savages are never able to ( (tn))>rehen(l, nor ever willing to \;'>nsentto receive in- structions from twt> sources. It is easy to see how the treaty made with Steele ill February, which permitted the Indians to visit the settlements, where, in s[)ite of their promises, tiny f.)Uiid means to carry on their former r.ofarious trade ill prostitution, should have affected the aitituck^ of ('a}itaiii Jack and band toward the treaty authoriznl liv the urovernment, and made with the Klamatlis and Modocs in October following. Tliis baml of Modocs was conijiosed in part of vii-ious renegades from other tiihes. and )iad their home about TuK; and Clear lukt'S, ill \vli;:t was known as the Lost River countrv, where tir;a"rlv thev used to lie in wait for parties of emi- 'jrants whose road lav around the shores of the lake, and from which they now had an easy and short road into Yreka and the mining settlements. Achnitting tlie attacliment of aboriginals to particuhir localities, wliicli would make them ri'luctant to remove from liost River, Captain Jack could nt)t willingly have resigned the advantages which the tn^aty with Steele gave him over that which Sconchin, the head <-hief of the jVIodocs, agreed to accept from lluntlngt«»n; cal. 1st. i'oc. a* iis 450 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. and it very soon was understood tliat though Jack ha<l signed the treaty witli the other chiefs, he had no intention of keeping it. This probable repudiation of the treaty during tlie interval before it was known to \w ratified bv congress, and btifore the agencv was well established, was not, however, a subject of serious concern. In the meantime they wore not keeping their agree- ment either with Steele or the United States. In the autunm of 1807 two of them were apprehended by Agent Applegate, and placed in chains at Fort Klamath, for distributing annnunition to the hostile Snakes; and in the following vear, having refused to come on the reservati<m, military aid was asked to comp(^l them to remove. In 1801) the settlers of Sis- kiyou county petitioned (xeneral Crook to remove the Mod(»cs to the reservation, as their presence in tliat district was detrimental to the interests of the people. Ill rt'i>ly. Crook stated that the Modocs woi'lf' have been removed before tliis, but for a report f f' the former connnander at Fort Klamath that the Indian department ditl not supply sufficient food there, and that they would not submit to remain uiion a reserva- tion where they were not fed, and could kill but little game. After some weeks, however, (leneral (^t<m»1<, on the demand of Superintendent Mea?ham, ordered the commanding ottie(T at Fort Klamath, Lieutenant Goodal(\ if he believed the Indian department pre- pared to take charge of them in such a manner as to give no cause of complaint, to bring Jack and \\\^ band upon the reservation. Accordingly, in ]>ecenilH>r. Meacham, accompanieil by a detachment of troops from the fort, re[)aired ti Stone Hridge, on Lost river, where he met (^aj)taiii Jack and his band, and informed them of the purpo-' of the government to insist on his observance of tli-- tri'atv. During tlu; ni>j[ht followinijf the council. Jai k. with a few of the most desperate characters in liis following, left the camp and tied to the lava beds. on tlie ^^eorge the liar fis Jack tliese, I; him, af two or i the resj George, Meacl f>'> uj>pe] J>orarily wliere tli W- gave and on tJ new agen ^''•'ing tJi; sul)sisten( f<»u]d not nient, mi 'Substitute *>nly at K ♦astern O California As if t( Jninianity, J'l'essjon'u ^•''ve<I am •'"ippliod, r ''<lis, and ^<iiid influ( •^l»nng Jio J( ^\v<» IiundrL liver to fis And it was t > compel t f"f<>nnatior '''•^'<ling at "l">'i tJie ofl SUPERINTENDENT MEACHAM. «n on the south side of Tule lake, leavinj^ two suh-chiefa, (Joorge and Kiddle, with the women and children, in the hands of the superintendent. Meachara did not, as Jack hoped, return at once to the reservation witli those, but remained in camp, and sent m«^ssengers to him, after wliich diplomatic correspondence, lasting two or three days, Jack finallv consented to vco witli the rest upon tlie reservation, saying, however, to George, that he did not intend to stay. Meacham established Jack's band at Modoc point on ui)pcr Klamath lake, where Sconchin also was tem- j)orarily located before removal to Camp Yainax, and where they were to all appearance contentedly settled. Ha gave them a supply of clothing nnd provisions, and on the 1st of January, 1870, turned over to tlie new agent at Klamath, (). C. Knapp, the business of stehig that Crook's fears concerning their conifortablo subsistence were not realized. For, as if tlic Indians could not be wholly entrusted to the Indian depart- ment, military officers were, in the autumn of IS(JI), substituted for the agents previously employed, n«>t onl\' at Klamath, l)ut at each of the reservations in eastern Oregon, and on many of the reservations in California and elsewhere. As if to sustain the military character for superior humanity, and also perha]>s to make a favorable im- jiression upon Jack's band, while all the Indians r*'- ciived ample allowances the.se were particularly well supplied, rec(>iving more in proportion than the Klani- aths, and beinsjf favored in other wavs. But to these kind influences Jack was hisensible. l*]arly in the s[)ring he left the reservation with all his peojile, a'xiut two hundred and fifty in number, and returned ti' L(»st liver to fish and to be within easy reaeli of Vrekii. And it was evident that f )rce would have to b<' used to compel this band to remain upon the reservation. Information was at once sjnt to the supeiintendent, residing at Salem, who chereupon made a deniaiid upon tlie officer in command at the fort to take nieas- ( i ■4| 4S2 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. ures to return these Indians, which effort for some time, however, roniained uiiattenipted. In the mean- time misunderstandings arose between the superin- tendent and the agent, the former accusing tlie latter of allowing the Klaniaths to ceaselessly annoy and insult the Modocs, whom he had ordered to change their location, and surrounded them with Klamaths, to their great dissatisfaction, under a pretense of pre- venting their escape. If tlierc was one thing more than another on which Superintendent Meacham prided himself, it was his knowledge of and iuHuenee over Indians. Like Steele, wlio had accepted the chieftainship of Jack's band in 18(14, lie was flattered by being looked '.ip to by sav- ages. He had a theory that if a man only felt suffi- <'i<ntly hiw connnon brotherhood with the wild men, he Would be able to control them tlirouglt their affec- tions; and although Jack seemed rather an unprom- ising sul)je('t for such practise, he anticipated the gnater distinction from success. He was, therefore, indignant when it was reported to him that Knapj» had (lone anything to disi*lease Captain Jack, wlio, he Kild, could not be blanuxl for leaving the reservation under the circumstances-'. The cireumstanees as alleged by Ja.ck were, that his people were obliged to labor at making raihs, that tliey had little tv) eat, that the watir on the r< serva- tion was frozen, and that Captain Knapp n)oved thtiii from place to place; to which Knapp replied that they were ])laeed at Tvfodoe point at their own re quest, and their pr<!pused itMuoval, about tlie 1st oC A[>ii!, was to a Muital)le [)lace for opening farms and for obtaining wood and grass. It was this prosju-ct of having to allow his men tt> be degraded by labor, instead of living off tlio sale of women and childn ii. which hastened Ca{)tain Jack's departure. Meacha;ii tJiouglitdifferently ; and in his dissatisfaction requested that some distinct special regulatitnis should be p?". mulgated, whereby tlie relative })Ositious of tlie militai \ and rassr TJ from the a it wi office] diaas tJiat i negloc the bli at tJio .judg/)! that h( turn if A yc was (lor grown 1 Vr'ven tc tho nn'n taken t fno oust 1-lass w sihlo jH miles s( Californ prop().sG( •^00 Mo( f!r])ersu was to( <'xaminin ,irer»era]l 'ia\i()r (I ^•'ft to his him. In Au "land of t Canliy, ai ) ; "WISDOM AND STRENGTH. 458 antl Indian departments micfht be understood, embar- rassment removed, and harmony made possible. Tliat there was some such necessity is apparent from the fact that enmity existed between Knapp of the agency and Goodale of the fort. Knapp, tliough it WIS Jiis duty to have called upon the commandiii;^ otficer of Foi*t Klamath to brinjj the abscondinu; In- tlians back, neglecte<l to do so, ujwn his own belief tliat the force at that post was insufficient. This ne^dcct caused Goodale to be censured, who placed tlie blame very promptly where it belonjjjed; thou«;h at the same time he was compelled to a<hnit that the judgment of Knaj>p in this matter was ct)rrect, and that ho had not force sufficient to compel Jack to re- turn if he did not wisli to, as plainly he did not. A year and a half elapsed, during which nothing was done to bring back the absentees. Captain Ja(k, grown bolder tlirough success, and theencouragenitiit given to li'ia rebellion by that class of men known in tiie minos as "squaw men," meaniiiLC men wlio had taken to wife Indian women, either witli or without tuo customary marriage ceremonies, and by other low- rl.vss whitA>8, if not by the advice of some more respoii- siUlo jKjirson, made him set up a claim to a tract six miles sijuare, lyhig on both sides of the Oregon and California line, near the head of Tule lake, where l.e proposed to establish liimself as chief of the '200 or .'500 Modoc men, women, and children whom ho had so far j)ersua.detl to follow him. Superintendent ^leacham was too nmch o<^cupied with (N)nunissioner Brunot in examininijf into tlie condition of the Indians of Oregon generally to give his personal attention to the be- havior of Captain Jack, whom he the more willingly left to Ills own devices because he sympathized with In August 1870 Crook was relieved from the com - I'liind of the department of the Columbia by General Cunl)y, and sent to fight the Indians in Arizona. For 454 SOME, IXDIAN EPISODES. the suiiie purpose the military stations in Oregon were (leplotcd, there being but one company, K, of the 2od infantry, at Fort Klamath, under Lieutenant Goixlale, and no cavalry ; while at Camp Warner, the nearest post to Klamath, there was one company of cavalry and one of infantry. It could not be expected that one of these posts could assist the other, each having t(j keep in check a thousand savages, who might at any moment take advantage of relaxed vigilance to renew hostilities. Wherefore Jack continued to re- side at Lost river, visiting the reservation from time to thne, clandestinely, to draw away other ^lodocs. But Sconchin, the liead-chief of the tribe was able to kec[» a minority of the people on tiie reservation, }Iistory repeats itself m the wilderness as wdl as on the asjics of Empire. An Indian nmst be old to lia\ *; any wisdom; it is always the "young mi-n" who can- not be controlled, and who are the Icadt-rs in war. Sconchin had enjoyed his day as the blood-thirsty enemy of the white race, and many were the victims of his savage ferocity, when from a watch tower in Clear lake his spies looked for the dust of some toilinor emii^rant train, for which he arraimed the am- bush at Bloody }H»int. That was all changed now. He had found the white men stronger than he, and wisely consented to be forgiven, and fed for the re- mainder of his days. B(vsides he was chief, and a cliitf nmst have a respectable following; therefore liis achice to the Modocs was to keep the treaty, and avt)id hostilities with the Ufiited States government. He had been rewarded for his good behavior by being allowed to tjike his people to Camp Yainax, near liisi former home, in S[»rague valley, about the time that Jack left the reservation. The Klamaths used formerly to be the friends of the Modocs, though they seemed not to have be(>n so thoroughly Imse in th<;ir dispositions. Under Lalako they hail been known to be guilty of murder and other atrocities ; but after coming on the reservation, and depo the I their whici form] frient KJaiij with cause tJie ni againt^ tlie t\\ enemy until t of Jac Kiauia I lia i'lg nee tJie wJi ()r-or(,„ iioissan* to tlie i J-ugone «'i!id the beilijr ui of farine imnjeroi ridges, v «iiid j\l(,t settlers over tile the Tule Since *ion of tl }>y Meac ig'iorant- leJt some ATTITUDE OF THE SAVAGES. and being instructed, and especially after Lalake was deposed and a reniarkublo youni^ savage, named by the agent Alien David, i)ronioted to tlie chieftainship, their ambition seemed to be to advance in civilization, which they were aware could be done only by con- forming to treaty regulations and cultivating the friendship of the government. This conformity of the Klamaths, a source of pride, and perhaps of boasting with them, was obnoxious to Captain Jack, and a cause of his late feeling of hostility to the Klamaths; the more so that the latter had acted with the whites against the lu>stile Snakes, and had hel[)ed to arrest tl.e two Moilocs guilty of carrying amnmnition to the enemy, and afterward held in chains at Fort Klamath until the war ended. Such was the relative position of Jack and his band to Sconchin's band and the Klamaths in the summer of 1870. I have elsewhere remarked that the constant scout- ing necessary during the Indian wars had revealed to the wliite men every feature of eastern and southern Ongon, hitheiio but little known. Drew's rccon- noissance from Fort Klamath to the Owyhee had led to the construction of the central military road from l^ugene city to the eastern boundary of the state; and the adaptal)ility of the country to stock-raising Ix'ing underst»)od, invited its settlement by that class «»f furmers, who began to establish themselves in the numerous small valleys lying between the frequent ridges, very soon after the confirmation of the Klamath and Modoc treiity; so that in 1870 there were many settlers living in secluded homes miles apart, scattered over the Klamath basin from the reservation south to the Tule and Clear lakes. Since Jack had resolved to lay claim to that por- tion of the country about Tule lake — a claim favored by Meacham, of which fact Jack could not have been ignorant — tht; settlers in the vicinity of Lost river had felt some uneasiness, which was increased to alarm 456 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. when in August, Jack's band began to kill their cattle, a sure indication of a deterniiiiation to bring on hos- tilities. He hatl at this time about 200 followers, S vmchin having succeeded in withdrawing from his influence nearly seventy, who had been living at Camp Yainax, and which addition to his following made him the equal with Jack in point of numbers. Just before depredations were begun, Agent Knapp held a council with Jack, whom he met in Yreka, when the latter informed him that he would not uro upon the reservation, and refused even to come to Camp Yainax to see the superintendent who was ex- pected there. Having thus thrown down the gaunt- let, it was but one step more to kill the stock of tlie settlers. Now commenced that preliminary warfare the froiiticrsmen only too well understood. Roaming about the country in small parties, selecting a time when the men belonjjjini; to a farm were absent from their houses to dash up to the doors on horse- back, dismount and demand a cooked meal of the frightened women, during the preparation of whicli tliey freely occupied chairs or beds, making insulting jiostures and remarks — these were the indications of what was surely to follow. To these outrages tlic settlers singly dared offer no resistance; nor could tliey collectively have done more than to hasten the outbreak. It was the duty of the superintendent to call for the arrest of these savages, and of the com- mander of Fort Klamath to perform i+^i; but for rea- sons already alluded to, no arrests were made. During the summer of 1871 the insolence of Jack's band increased alarmingly. They frequently came ujjon the reservation, and about Forts Klamath and Warner, behaving in a defiant manner, saying that they had friends in Yreka who gave them passes and they should go wh ere they pleased. So far as the asser- tion that they had "papers" was concerned, it was true that they carried letters written by persons of presumed respe condi some vous tiiat j might At rostin< irjg a as he hers ol WIS so tions, t niakino Indians applicai an attc Klamat ineff'ecti (Iocs, th l>y the i InO( vation, superint attempts change ( Jackson, with liis When A of the CO desired t t'oee slioi afc the sai AppJegat This desi Canby, tl P<-'id any his follow J A UTTLE MURDER, 487 respectability living in Yreka, testifying to the good conduct of Captain Jack ; and it was also true that some of the settlers liviiiij nearest to Jack's rendez- vous were averse to his heinsr removed, fei'linj; sure that the attempt would bring on a conflict which might prove fatal to them. At length Jack precipitated the necessity for ar- resting him by going ui)on the reservation and kill- ing an Indian doctor of Sconchin's band, who as he alle<'ed, had caused the death of two mem- hers of his family. Whether he believed that this was so, or only wished to carry out his defiant inten- tions, the result was the same; the terms of the treaty making it the duty of the government to defend tlie Indians on the reservation from their enemies, and on application of Ivan Applcgate, connnissary at Yuinax, an attempt was made by the connnander at Fort Klamath to arrest Jack, which effort was renderetl ineffectual bv those white friends of the renejxade Mo- docs, the squaw men, living along the route travelled by the troops in going to Yreka. In October 1870 Agent Knapp of Klamath reser- vation, was relieved by John Meacham, brother of tlie superintendent, who was in charge at the time of the attempted arrest of Jack. There had also be(;n a cliange of commanders at the fort. Captain James Jackson, 1st cavalry, having been ordered to this post, with his company, B, and to assume the command. When Agent Meacham informed the superintendent of the course pursued by the Motlocs, that functionary desired that no arrests should be made until a confer- ence should have been had with Jack and his band, at the same time naming John Mcacliam and Ivan A]>plegate as his representatives to confer with tlicm. This desire havincj been connnunlcated to (General Canby, that officer directed Captain Jackson to sus- pend any measures lookhig to the arrest of Jack or his followers until further advice, but to keep his com- 45S ROME INDIAN EPISODES. inantl in reatliness to act promptly and efficiently f.>r tho protection of the settlers in the vicinity, should the conduct of the Indians make it necessary. At the same tune a confidential order was issued to the commandin*; officer at Vancouver to place in ett'ective condition for field service two companies of infantry at that post. In the meantime the superintendent was pursuing his temporizing [)olicy, advising the government to stul- tify itself by yielding to the demands of these Indians, and setting the example to other discontented hands, of which the warlike Snakes constituted several, to make similar requirements. His recommendations were met by counter advice from other persons interested in tho proper settlement of the Indian question, and were not yet acted upon; while the encouragement thus held out to Jack's band to consider the Lost river country as their own, was doing its work in augmcnt- inir their stubbornness and insolence. John Meacham, acting under instructions from the superintendent, sent Sconchin to find Jack and en- deavor to obtain a conference. Sconchin carried a letter to a man named Fairchild, living on the road from Tule lake to Yreka, well known to the Indians, and influential among them. Fairchild and Schoii- chin, together, found and conversed with Jack, wlio would not agree to the proposition for a conference, and Sconchin returned to Camp Yahiax. In the early part of the summer of 1871, Jesse Ap- plegate settled at Clear lake upon a tract of land owned by J. D. Carr, and lying partly in Oregon and partly in California, which was selecte«l as a stoc k rancho from the swamp lands of the states, and of which Applegate v/as agent. On the settlement hv- ing made at Clear lake, Jack demanded of Applegate a stated allowance of subsistence in consideration of having permission to settle in the country that le claimed, which demand was promptly refused, Apple- gate sessnj India by A| friend riors, people coniph the su to obtii was gi' Would time in tonduci At 1 tliat he JJointed l)rovidei tended liave wi inent Je Vainax, paired i white n The dist arrived i surround featliers Tlie c( onibarras occupied military iuvectivp, 'onnnissic as a reaso I>o fearec yainax, w ^iom the COMMISSION AXD CONFERENCE. 450 gate not choosing to recognize his right to levy as- sessments on citizens residing on land to whidi the Indian title had ijeen extinguished. On this retusid by Applegate, Jim, one of the firmest of Jack's cliostii friends, at the head of fifteen or twenty V(»uu*' war- riors, set out upon a tour of the farms in Sangtll val- Ky, lying to the north of Clear lako, alarming the people by their insolent behavior, and causing thom to complain to the agent at Yaiiiax, and through him to the superintendent. These things led to the attempt to obtain a conference with Jack, to secure which he was given to understand that the killing of the doctor would be overlooked, and he allowed to remain forthe time in the Lost river country upon his promise to conduct himself peaceably. At length he hiformed Applcgate of Clear lake tliat he would consent to see the connnissioners ap- jiointed by the superintendent to confer with him, l)rovided they would come to him at Clear lake, at- tended by not more than four men, he agreeing to liave with him the same number. On t\ '\s aimouncc- inent Jesse Applegate sent a mes.senger in haste to Yainax, and Ivan Applegate and John Meacham re- paired at once to the rendezvous, attended by two white men and two Indians from the reservation. The distance to be travelled- was sixty miles, and they arrived there on the 15th, where they found Jack surrounded by twenty-nine warriors in the paint and feathers of war. The conference opened awkwardly, Jack seeming embarrassed and dismclined to talk. But Black Jim occupied some time in denouncing the officers of the military and Indian departments in terms of bitter iuvectivp, after which Jack found words, and gave the connnissioners a history of his grievances. He gave as a reason for not returning to the reservation that lie feared the Klamath "medicine," though Camp Yainax, where the Modocs were living, was forty miles from the Klamath agency. He complained that the I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I iiM mil 2.5 12.2 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 = = : "^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) 873-4503 W U.X fA m SOME INDIAN EPISODES. Klarnaths made him angry by assuming to own the wood, grass, and water on the reservation, drawing an effective picture of the miseries of such a state <-f dependence. He denied that his people had ever done anything to disturb the settlers, though they had in the summer of 1870 driven away several families who had settled around the north end of Tule lake the previous winter, when Jack and his band were on the reservation, where he was expected to remain. H. F. Miller subsequently returned, and made some ar- rangement with the Indians, paying them an assess- ment, and being one of those whites opposed to the removal of the Indians from interested motives. Jack demanded to know who had given information against him, but the knowledge was withheld, for obvious reasons. The conference amounted to this, that Jack prom- ised to listen to the agent's advice, not to do anything to annoy the settlers, and not to resist tlie military, and was given permission to remain where he was until the superintendent should come to see them. Agent Meacham vrote to the superintendent that no danger was to be apprehended at that time of any serious trouble between the Modocs and the settlers. Yet on that same night, after the commissioners had started on their return to Yainax, it was warmly de- bated in the Modoc camp whether or not to open hos- tilities at once by killing the Clear lake settlers. The report of Meacham's conference with Jack, and his assurance that no immediate danger existed, was communicated by the superintendent to Canby, wlio in turn communicated the same to the commander of the division at San Francisco, and the matter restetl. This impression was strengthened by the report of the military hispector, Ludingttm, who entered Oregon from the south by the route passing by camps Bid- well, Warner, and Harney, that the people along the route seemed free from any fear of Indians, and that any rumors to the contrary were occasioned by the petty India] \iolen ing tl Jucksc not be ailairs, to giv( tiers o: reportc But atli, an tniry, affairs, oft]ie( ration, surli th in the c roinove( conflict n'turnii alarmeti Thci tors unt l)c'en in Mere n Fort K ill tlied( to be m( On the peti' '»o renio less thai roniovin; acconipa military. To M fonsiden tlie pern SLUMBERING SORROWS. 461 petty annoyances of individuals or small parties of Indians visiting the settlements, but unattended by violence or threats. The military department, except- ing the inspector, who did not visit Klamath, and Jackson, who should have been better informed, could not be blamed for not knowing the true position of allairs, since it was the duty of the Indian department to irive such information as the welfare of either set- tiers or Indians required, and the superintendent had repcjrted that there was no danger. But so the settlers of Lost river, Link river, Klam- ath, and Tule lake districts did not feel. On the con- trary, they petitioned the superintendent of Indian affairs, and the general commanding the department of the Columbia, to remove the Modocs to the reser- vation, Raying that the conduct of the Indians was such that they dared not allow their families to remain ill the country, and in fact a number of families were removed to Rogue River valley, in anticipation of a conflict with the Modocs, some families going and returning several times as they were more or less alarmed. The petition of the settlers did not reach headquar- ters until late in January 1872, though it nmst have been in the superintendent's hands. That complaints were made by the citizens to the commander at Fort Klamath is shown by the correspondence on file in tlie department. Captain Jackson having been asked to be more explicit in making statements. On the 25th of January tlie superintendent sent tlic petition to Canby, witli a request that the Modocs lie removed to Camp Yainax, and suggt sting that not less than fifty troops be sent to perform the duty of ronioving them. Jesse Api>logate was instructed to accompany the expedition, if not objected to by the military. To Meacham's letter, Canby replied that he had considered the Modoc question temporarily settled by the permission given them to remain where the com- 402 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. missioners had found them in the previous August ; and that he did not tliink it would be expedient to send a military torce against them until they had been notified of the determination of the government to make the change contemplated, and notice given of ^he point selected, as well as the time fixed upon for removal ; but that in the meantime the commanding officer at Fort Klamath would be directed to take all necessary measures to protect the settlers, or to aitl in the removal of the Modocs should forcible means be required. In reply to Canby, Meacham gave as a reason for previous action that in his report for 1871, he had recommended that a small reservation be made for the Modocs at the north end of Tule lake, but that the department had not yet taken any action in the matter; and accounted for his change of policy in asking for their removal to Yainax by saying that they had agreed to remain where the council was hold at Clear lake, whereas they were then at Tule lake, sixty miles from the council ground, and had conse- quently forfeited all claims to forbearance. He re- peated his request f jr their removal to the reservation, and recommended that Captain Jackson be instructed to arrest Jack, and five or six of his head men, and hold tliem in confinement until further orders were received from Washington: but the militarv orders sliow that Jackson was only instructed to keep the department informed of the condition of affairs rela- tive to the Modocs. There was at this time a continual interchange of correspcmdence between the superintendent and Canby; and it appears that Meacham was able to thoroughly infuse into the mind of the general tliat the Modocs were in the position of a helpless and in- jured people, who had been driven from the reserva- tion by their enemies the Klamaths. In a letter to Canby dated February 18, 1872, he repeated that they were abused by the Klamaths, and that the sub- con fo APPEAL TO AUTHORITIES. 468 agent failing to protect them they left the reserva- tion, having been upon it but three months, in the winter of 186'J-70. Why they had refused to come upon tlie reservation before that time, he did not say, nor make any reference to the fac that they were coerced into connng at tliat time; and that conse- quently their dislike to the reservation did not have its foundation in the conduct of the Klamaths during those three months. Thus while Canby was asked to compel the Modocs to go upon their reservation, he was furnished with a cogent reascm for hesitating to do so; and was placed by the statements of the sup- erintendent of Indian aifairs in the position too often occupied by the military department, of opposition to the people whose property and lives were involved. And not only Canby, but the commander of the division, who received his information from Canby, was influenced in like manner. Alarmed by the delay in arresting Jack and his confederates, a petition was forwarded by the people of Klamath basin to Governor Grover, of Oregon, to urge the superintendent to remove the Modocs, or in c;ue this was not done, to authorize the organization of a company of mounted militia, to be raised in the settlements for three months' service, unless sooner discharged by the governor. In this petition the set- tlers reiterated their former statements, saying they had been harassed for four years by the Modocs, who were about 250 in number, with about eighty warriors every day growing more insolent. The military, said the petitioners, are keen to ex- tend the desired protection, but are subject to the superintendent's order, who has turned a deaf ear to our numerous petitions; and unless the governor could help them there was no further authority to wliich they could appeal. They were scattered over a large area of country, and in case of an outbreak the loss of life would be heavy, a contingency they were seeking to avoid 18 ' 464 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. Governor Grover at once called upon Superintend- ent Meacham, who thus urged renewed his applica- tion to General Canby for troops to arrest Jack, seconded by a letter from the governor. To this application Canby replied that he had sent an order to the connnanding officer of the district of the lakes to establish in the threatened neighborhood a cavalry force sufficient to protect the settlers; adding that until the questions submitted by the superintendent to the commissioners- of Indian affairs at Washington should be settled, it was his duty to prevent a war if possible; but if that could not be done, all the forces needed to suppress the Indians would be applied. According to these instructions Major E. Otis sent a detachment of fifty cavalry and three officers to es- tal>lish a temporary camp in the Lost river district, wiiicli for the time relieved tlie settlers without re- liioving the cause of their anxiety. Early in April Meacham was relieved of the superintendency, and L. B. Odeneal appointed in his place. The position, owing to the Modoc difficulty, was not without serious responsibilities, and so Ode- neal felt it to be. One of his first acts was to take counsel of Major Otis in regard to the propriety of permitting Jack's band to remain any longer where they were. Otis made a formal recommendation in writing, that the permission given them by Meacham the previous August should be withdrawn, and they be directed to go upon the reservation ; but that the order should not be given before September, so that in case they refused, the military authorities coukl put them upon it during the winter season, which was considered the most favorable time for the under- taking. Otis further recommended placing Jack and Black Jim on the Siletz reservation, or any other place of banishment from their people; and stated as his reason for this advice that in his judgment there would be no peace for the people, to whom they were THE HATEFUL RESERVATION. 4G5 insolent and insulting, so long as permitted to roam about the country, without the presence of a consid- erable military force to compel good behavior. In order to make room for the Modocs, and remove all cause of complaint it was proposed to place Otseho's band of Snakes, together with Wcwawewa's and some others, on a reservation in the Malheur country. The same suggestion was made in a communication to Canby April 15th. While these matters were under discussion an order arrived from the commissioner of Indian affairs to remove the Modocs, if practicable, to the reserva- tion already set apart for them under the treaty of October 1864, and to see that they were properly pro- tected from the Klamaths — showing that Jack's story of abuse had reached Washington. The superintend- ent, if he could not remove them, or could not keep them on the reservation, was instructed to report his views of locating them at some other point, naming and describing such place as he selected. Not wishing to make the journey to Klamath, Odeneal wrote to agent Dyar at the reservation and Commissary Ivan Applegate, at Yainax, to see Cap- tain Jack, and endeavor to persuade him to return to the reservation. Previous to this order, on the 3d of March, Major Otis had made an attempt similar to the one now required of the agent at Klamath. By means of his Indian scouts under Donald McKay, he o[)cned communication with Jack, assuring him of the peaceable nature of his mission, and inviting him to meet him at Linkville, a settlement founded by George Nourse at the lower end of the upper Kla- math lake. But Jack declined to meet the major anywhere but in his own country. After considerable negotiation it was arranged that the meeting should take place at Lost river gap, the soldiers to be left at Jjinkville, and Jack's warriors, except half a dozen men, to be left away from the council ground. Otis went to the rendezvous with Agent High, two gf Cal. Int. Poc. 30 466 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. the Applcgates, three or four settlers as witnesses, and three or f«)ur Klamath scouts, and found Jade awaitint^ him with thirty-nine figliting men, as on a previous oceasit)n he had met Meacliam. The council proved as little productive <( satisfactory results as the former one. When the order came from the commissioner through Suiierintendent Odeneol to inform the ^lo- docs of the wish of the government that they should comply with their treaty obligations, Schonchin was emi)loyed to act as messenger and arrange for a con- ference. As before he required the agents of the government to come to him, and the rendezvous was appointed at the military camp at Juniper sj)rings on Lost river. Dyar and Api)legate, attended by the hvm I men of the reservation Modocs, met Jack and his favor- ite warriors on the 14th of !May, when every argument and inducement was held out to influence them to keep the treaty ; but all to no puqv)se. Promises of ample protection, subsistence, and privileges were of no effect. The unalterable reply of Jack was ever to the effect that he should stay where he was, and would not molest settlers if they did not locate them- selves on the west side of Lost river near the moutii, where he had his winter camp. The settlers he s;ii(l were always lying about him and trying to make trouble; but his people were good people and would not frighten or kill anybody. He desired only ])ea( e, and was governed by the advice of the people of Yreka who knew and understood him. At this conference Sconchin made a strong appeal to the Modocs, urging them to accept the benefits of the reservation, and pointing out the danger of resist- ing the efforts of the government to induce them to comply with the terms of the treaty. But all was in vain, and Jack as heretofore occupied his position of defiance to the government. As the commissioners were instructed, in case the Modocs refused to go upon the reservation, to select and t po.se ( repor had b purpo uj), ar as stat in thei their n fore, tJ TJiis forwan Walkei W'liich y taken t should i roniovec pJishnic; On recei tlie com der to r( tion, "p, tlie time Onth conferen< quiet, gi' that tinu tJirougli londerint f'oniment fa nip, to tiy. Tin the last c the troopi excitemen i'"rty arm( roservatioi beliaved ii to the res( ATTITUDE OF THE MODOCS. 407 and describe some other location favorable to the pur- pose of carrying out the attempt to tame thorn, they re[)orted that no situation outside of the reservation ♦ had been found so suitable as the reserve itself for the purpose, all the good agricultural land being taken u[), and most of the grazing land having been locat«d as state land In additit)n, the settlers were determined in their opposition to having the Modocs located in their midst at Lost river. They recommended, there- fore, that they be placed on the reservation. This report being sent to the superintendent was forwarded to the commissioner at Washington, F. A. Walker, together with his own opinion on the subject, which was that the head men should be arrested and taken to some point remote from their tribe until they sliould agree to keep the laws, and the remainder b^ removed to Yainax; the time suggested for the accom- plishment of this plan being the last of Septend)er. On receiving thisconmiunication, which was approved the commissioner issueil to the superintendent an or- der to remove the Modocs to the Klamath reserva- tion, "peaceably if you can, forcibly if you must," at the time suggested. On the 11th of ^lay, Otis reported that since his conference with them in March, the Modocs had been quiet, giving no cause of complaint. They Were at that time scattered from Yreka to Camp Yainax, and through the mountains in the vicinity of Lost river, rendering the camp at that place useless, and he re- commended its withdrawal, proposing instead of a camp, to make an occasional tour through the coun- try. The troops were accordingly withdrawn about the last of the month. No sooner, however, were tlie troops returned to Fort Klamath, than the same excitement prevailed as before. Captain Jack with I'orty armed men presented himself at a camp of the roservation Indians, off on their summer furlough, and behaved in such a manner as to frighten them back to the reservation in great haste. The settlers were SOME IXDIAX KPISODES. liardly less alarmed, and talked of or^anizini^ a militia coinj)any for protection. The usual corresiH)n(leni'o followed between the Indian and military departments, Canby assuring the superintendent that the settlors would be protected. While the Modoc question was thus approaching a climax, influences unknown to the departments were at work to confirm Captain Jack in his defiant course, his friends in Yreka having encouraged him to believe that an arrangement could bo made by which he could remain at Lost river by offering to secure the per- mission of the ijovernment. This offer led to furtlicr opposition by the Modocs, who in their ignorance of government affairs, and respect for Steele — whom they still regarded as clothed with authority to direct them, and whom they trusted as their confidential friend— ^ believed they would be defionded in resisting the au- thorities in Oregon — a mistake which was to lead to the most deplorable consequences. It was now definitely settled by the proper author- ities that the Modocs were to be removed to the res- ervation before winter. For this purpose superintend- ent Odeneal repaired to Klamath where he arrived on the 25th of November, whence he sent James Brown, of Salem, and Ivan Applegate to Lost river to request the Modocs to meet him at Linkville on the 27th. At the same time the messengers were in- structed to say that the superintendent had only the kindest feelings for them ; that he had made ample provision for their comfortable support at Yainax, where, if they would go within a reasonable time, they should be fairly dealt with and fully protected ; and if they would go there at once with Applegate, he would meet them there, but if they refused he re- quired them to meet him at Linkville in order that a final understanding with them might be had. Captain Jackson had been superseded in the com- mand of Fort Klamath by Major Hunt, who in turn CArTAIN JACK DEFIANT. 4m was relieved July 17, 1872, by Major John Green, in counuand at this time. ^lajor Otis had also been re- lieved of the connnand of the district of the Lakes, June 18th, by Colonel Frank Wheaton, "Jlst infantry. To Wheaton, Odeneal addressed a communication at the same time, informing him of the purpose of his visit, to carry out the instructions of the conunissionor to remove the Modocs to the reservation. Odeneal had been of the opinion, when he came into office, that force would not be necessary; but on learning more about the matter, and conferring with Ivan Applegate, he asked to have a force in readiness suffi- cient to overawe the Indians, should they prove refrac- tory on receiving his message, so sugixestinjj: to Wheaton in preferring his request to have the troops ready for immediate action in case they were needed. On the 27th the superintendent, in company with Dvar from the Klamath agency, went to Lhikville to meet the Modocs, as he had appointed, but there found only his messengers, who informed him of Jack's refusal either to go upon the reservation or to meet liim at Link\ ille. "Say to the superintendent," said Jack, who with a part of his men was in camp at Lost river, "that we do not wish to see him, or to talk Mith hhn. We do not want any white men to tell us what to do. Our friends and counsellors are men in Yreka. They tell us to stay where we are, and we intend to do so, and will not go upon the reservation. I am tired of being talked to, and am done talking." It being now apparent that nothing short of an armed force could influence these Indians to submit to the government, the superintendent sent a report of tlie late conference of his messengers with Captain Jack, and of the reply of Jack to his proposals, together with the order of the commissioner, to Green, with a request that he should furnish sufficient force to com- ]>el the Modocs to go upon their reservation ; and in case it became necessary to use compulsorj' measures, to arrest first of all Jack, Black Jim, and Scarfaced m SOME INDIAN EPISOPES. Charley, holding them subject tt) his orders. In re- ply to this demand, Green sent word that Jackson would at once leave the iK)8t with about thirty men. It had never been in contemplation by the superin- tendent or agents, or by General Canby, that any number of troops under fifty should attempt to arn st Jack and his head men. Indeed, the general had is- sued a special order early in September, giving the commander of the district of the Lakes control of the troops at Fort Klamath, that in an emergency he might have men enough to make the attempt at re- moval successful. On receiving these instructions Wheaton rei)lied that he had directed Green to keij* him fully and promptly advised by courier of any change in the attitude of the Modocs, and should it be necessarv he should move into the Modoc country with every available mounted man from Camp Har- ney, Bidwell, Warner, and Klamath. Had a strong force of cavalry been called out, and proceeded with proper caution, doubtless the arrest might have been made. But the officers at Foit Klamath flattered themselves that the Indians would yield at once to the troops, the more so that tlie weather was stormy and uii worable to escape. Green, therefore, after despatching a courier to Wheaton, did not wait for instructions or reenforcc - ments, but sent upon this doubtful errand a force of thirty-six men, believing that if surprised the Indians would surrender. The troops left Fort Klamath at noon on the 28th of November, officered by Jackson, Boutelle, and McEldery. Odeneal, who had sent his messenger Brown to notify all settlers who would be endangeiod by an unsuccessful engagement with the Indians, also met Jackson on the road about one o'clock on tlio morning of the 29th, and directed him to say to the head men of the Modocs that he had not come to tight them, but to conduct them peaceably to Yainax, ATTACK OF TIIK TROOPS. 471 "whorc arrangeinenta had been made for thoir rccop- tit)ii ; not t<) fire a gun except in seH'-defeiuo, afcer they had first fired upon him; and in every way to guard against any appearance of hostility. Guided by Ivan A])plegate, the troops moved on through a heavy rainstorm, arriving near Jack's cam}) about daybreak. Jacksi)n then formed his troops in hue and advanced rapidly ujwn the Modocs wJio were surprised but not unprepared. Halting his men at tiie edge of tlie camp, Jacks»)n called to them to lay down their arms and surrender, Applegate inter- preting and explaining the meaning of the visit, ask- ing them to yield to the authority of the Indian de- jKii-tnient. A part of them seemed willing to do so, but Scarfaced Charley, Black Jim, and some others retained their guns making hostile demonstratioi ;. Three-quarters of an hour was spent in parleying, during which UicbO few leaders grew more detcrminr<!, and at loi\',rth Jackson ordered Boutelle t'> take some men from the line and arrest them. As Boutelle ad- vanced in front of his men, Scarfaced Charkv ex- claimed with an oath that he would kill one officer, and fired at him. This was the signal for hostilities to commence. A volley from both sides opened sinmltaneously, and Boutelle lost, almost at the first volley, one man killed and seven wounded. The troops kept up a rapid firing, killing in a short time fifteen Indians. Up to the time that firing commenced, Jack had taken no part in the conversation, but lay sullenly in his tent, refusing to come forth or make anv answer to the propositions When hostilities began, how- ever, he showed himself prepared and retreated fighting. Mr Applegate says that the Modocs had for a long time vigilantly guarded against surprise; and after Ivan and Brown had left, Jack gathered the warriors, so that at the time of the fight their aggre- gate number of men and boys capable of bearing ¥ Hi 472 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. arms was probably twice as great as at the time of Ivan's visit. Every circumstance indicated that they were prepared for any emergency. The horses were all gathered hi bands near the encampments, and an Indian evidently on guard, fired liis gun and ran for camp shouting soldiers 1 soldiers 1 when Jackson's troops first appeared. The great error of attempting the arrest of the Modoc leaders with so small a force became now ap- parent. Had Jack and a few others been taken, there would have been nothing to fear from the others, who would have been restrained by apprehen- sion ot' punishment falling on their leaders. But no arrests being made, the advantage was all on the side of the savages. The already too light force of Jack- son was rendered less efficient by having to care for the wounded whom he dared not leave in camp, kst the Modoc women who still remained should kill and mutilate them. Leaving only a light skirmish line in charge of Boutelle, he was forced to employ the re- mainder of his men in removing the dead and wounded to the north side of the river in canoes, and thence half a mile below to the cabin of one Dennis Crawley. Having done this he returned to the southwest side of the river and dismantled the Indian camp, destroy- ing whatever property it contained, among otlier things three rifles and two saddles found in Jack's wickiup. In the meantime a party of settlers con- sisting of Oliver Applegate, James Brown, J. Bur- nett, Dennis Crawley, E. Monroe, Thurber, Caldwell, and others, who had collected at Crawley's to await the event of the attempted arrest, attacked a smaller camp on the north side, and had one man, Thurbtr, killed. They then retired to Crawley's i)lace, and kept up firing at long range, preventing the Indians from crossing the river and attacking Jackson's com- mand on the flank and rear. Tv^hile the fight was going on, two settlers William Nus and Joseph Pi'ii- ning, coming up the road, unaware of danger, were OPENING OF TKE MODOC WAR. I 473 fired upon and wounded, Nus fatally, within half a mile of the house, which thev reached before Nus died. Applegate, Brown, Burnett, and others then v/eut in various directions to warn the settlers that liostilities had begun, which left but a small force at Crawley's to protect the wounded and the other inmates. During the forenoon Crawley came to Jackson with the information that the Indians on the north side under two noted Modocs, Hooker Jim, and Curly- headed Doctor, were preparing to attack his place. On this hiformation, he mounted his men and rode rapidly up the river eight miles to the ford, wliere alone the cavalry could cross, arriving at Crawley's late in the afternoon. In the meantime the Indians burned some hay, and conimitted some minor de[)re- dations in sight of the troops. Darkness brought a cessation of hostilities. While these events were taking place, no one seemed to have thought of the danger that threatened the settlers in the lower country art»und Tule lake. Cap- tain Jackson was ignorant that there were any inliab- itants in the vicinity who had not been warned; but on the morning of the 30th, having heard that there was a family named Boddy about three and a l;alf miles below Crawley's, he sent a detachment, guided by Crawley, to ascertain their condition. At Boddy s house no one was found; but everything being in order, with no signs of violence, and the horses being In the corral, Crawley came to the conclusion that the family had been warned, and had tied southward, warning thers, and he thereft)re returneil with a corresponding report. Such, however, was imt the fact. While the fight was g<nng on, during the morning of the !21)th, a party of Modocs, escaping aiid making their wav toward their afterward celebrated stronjrhold m the lava beds, had killed three men and one boy of this family who were found in the woods at work cut- o 474 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. tinsj and haulincj fire wood. The women, two m num- ber, were permitted to escape. The Boddj family consisted of William, his wife, his daughter and her husband, Nicholas Schira, and his step-sous, William and Richard Crav'^an. Mrs Schira's narrative was suljstantially as follows : On the morning of the 2*Jth Mr Schira was looking after some sheep on the border of Tule lake, and came in during the forenoon with some ducks he had shot, changing his muddy boots, and afterward taking his team and going to the woods for a load. Mrs Schira subsequently took the wet boots out in the sun to dry them, and it being a quar- ter past eleven, she thought it time for her husband to be returning. Looking up the road, she saw the team coming without a driver. She went up to the mules and stopped them, took up the lines, and saw that they were bloody. She informed her mother that something had happened to her husband, and after putting the animals in the stable, the two women walked up tlie road together. About a half mile from the house they found Schira, dead, shot through the head with a revolver. Mrs Schira then remembered her brother Richard, who would be coming home witli her husband, and ran on, leaving her mother, who could not keep up with her. As she ran, she saw Hooker Jim's Indian wife emerge from the sage-brush, and afterv/ard Hooker Jim, Curly-headed Doctor. Long Jim, One-eyed Mose, Rock Dave, and Huuijjv Jerry, all well-known Modocs. They did not inter- cept her, but went toward her mother, who was still beside the dead man, and asked her if there were any men at the house. Knowing well that nmch depeiuh J on her reply, she feigned not to understand their pur- pose, answering, "No, the mules have run away ami killed the driver, and I am looking for our men." At this answer they left Mrs Boddy without molesting' her, but could not have gone to the house, perliaps fearing to find men there notwithstanding Mrs Bodd\ s denial. Other Ijidians who came that way a day THE BODDYS AND BROTIIERTONS. 475 later robbed the place of $800, every article of value, and t(j()k seven horses besides. The bodv of Schira, wliicli was not mutilated when she left it, before she saw it aixain was much mangled. After finding the l)(>dy of her brother, Mrs Schira, with her mother, tied over the timbered ridge toward Crawley's, but while on the crest, happening to see the men gathered at that place, they mistook them for Indians, and turned toward the highest hills between them and Linkville, where thev found snow Iving, through which they travelled until late at night, when they sat down under a juniper tree to wait for daylight, by whidi time Mrs Schira's feet were so swollen that she could not wear her shoes. Tearing up part of her dress, Mrs Boddy bound up her daughter's f 'ct, and tlicy continued their Hight, having eaten nothing since the previous morning. When near the bridge on Lo.st river, about halfway to liinkville, tluy were met by Mr Cole, who conducted tliem to the bridge, from which place they were taken to Linkville in a wagon l)v Mr Roberts, where for the first time they heard of the affair of the dav before, which had caused tiieir terrible calamities. On the 2d of Drceinl)er Mrs Sehira returned, with a party of f )ur volunteers, in a wagon furnished l>y ]Mr Xourse, to look for her de-ad. ()n arriving at Crawlev's she found that Boutelle had that morning gone down with three men on the same errand, and when he returned had found three of the bodies, Schira, Boddv, and liichard Boddv. The younger brother was not found for twelve days, having fled, on being attacked, from tlie ])]ace where he was herding slieep, and where they t!X}»ected to find him, into the thick woods, where he was over- taken and killed. The Boddv faniilv were from Aus- tral'ia, and were industrious worthy ]>eoj)h\ It did not appear that the part}' of Indians com- mitted anv further nmrders that dav. On tlie follow- nig day they killed a immber of persons about the border of Tule lake, and among others their good 476 SOME INDIAN EPISODE!?. friend H. F. Miller, just when and how there were no witnesses to relate. Living within seventy-five yards of Miller's house was a family named Brotherton, three men of which were killed. The remainder of the familv would have shared the same fate but for the courage of Mrs Brotherton, who defended her house and children until relief arrived, three days after the slaughter of her husband and sons. The account Mrs Botherton gave when rcscuc<l was. that on Saturday, the 30th of November, be- tween two and three o'clock in the afternoon, she saw at some distance approaching the house, eight Indian men and eiixht women, who had the horses belon^ino- to her husband. They surrounded the liouse of John l?]iroeder, in sight of her own, and sliot Shroedcr, who was on horseback, and who tried to escape by running liis horse, but was overtaken and killed. Joseph Brotherton, fifteen years of age, was in com- pany with Shroeder, but being on foot, and t)nly a boy, they gave all their attention to the man on horseback. Mrs Brotherton soeiuix her son runninu^ toward the house, went out to meet him with a re- volver. A younger boy, Louis, fearing for his mother, called her back and ran after her, but she ordered him back to the house to ijct his Henrv ritlc, telling him to elevate the sight 800 yards, and fire j:t the Indians. He obeyed — his little sister wiping ar.d handllni; the cartritli^es. In this mamu^r the mother was })rotected by one stm, while she rescued another. She returned safely to the luHise and the door was closed and fastened. The Indians then rode past, half a mile, to the tules, where they left their lu)rs( s, and came back, on foot, keeping ^Miller's house br- tween them and the Henry rifle. Entering jMillers house, they pillaged it, having alreatly killed him. Under Mrs Brothertoii's directions, tlicFO was a poit hole bored on the side of her house toward JSIiller s. As the auger came through the Indians saw it, and fired, but without hitting anyone. The boy at the SLAUGHTER OF SETTLERS. 477 hole returned the fire and wounded Long: Jim. One Indian was killed by ^Irs Brotherton. While this was going on, an Indian woman who had been living with Sover as his wife, came to Mrs Brotherton's door, wishhig to be taken in. The Ind- ians ordered her away, and threatened to kill her if she refused to go. Slie told them to kill lier, if they wished, being then in deep grief for her white husband ; but they replied tliat they killed Boston men, not women. At lengtli Mrs Brotherton, whose sympathy was aroused for the poor creature, opened the door to atl- mit her, and Hooker Jim, who was waiting for this (•pportunity, shot into the opening, fortunately with- out liitting anyone. At dark the Indians went awa\', and did not return, tliouijh Mrs Brotherton dared not relax her guard, and was not relieved until the third da}', wlien a party under Ivan Applegate came that May, and took the family to Crawley's, ten miles above. On leaving Mrs Brotherton's, the Indians pn^ceeded along the eastern border of the lake to the house of Louis Land, a stock raiser. What transpired tliero could only be surmised by those who afterward found the cabin destroyed, and the dead body of his herder in the road near the Brotherton place, where he had fiillen after a chase of over nine miles. Land was ab- sent; but a man in his service, Adam Shillinglow, was killed; also Erasnms, Collins, and two strangers riding along the road. The nunibor of wliite men killed on the 29th and 30th of Noven>ber was eiixhteen. n The distance from Orav/lev's, which was now the central point of interest in the Klamatli valley, to Fort Klamath was nearly sixty miles. The agency was a few miles nearer. Camp Yai.iax was about the same distance. It was twenty -three miles to Link- ville, where the road to the Rogue River vallej' left the Klamath basin at Link river; and sixty-five miles from there to Ashland on the other side of the Cas- 478 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. J I cade mountains. These distances in a new country without telegraph linos or railroads, were insupt-rablc obstacles tt) tlic swift movement necessary to the emergency which had overtaken the people in Klam- ath valley. Nevertheless, what could be done \>\' rapid riding was done. Couriers flew in every dhec- tion with news of the disasters of the '21)tli. As soon as the intelliijence reached Klamatli ai^eiuv, Dyar raised a company of thirty-six Klamaths. whom he placed under D, J. Ferree, and sent to Crawley's to reinforce Jackson. Oliver Applegate hastened to Yainax, and after talking to Schonchin, who assured him of tlie good faith t)f the Modocs at that eamj). placed fifteen of Sehoncliin's people on guard under the white employes, and takin*j: with him nine res( r- vation Indians, part ^lodoes and part KhmuUlis, without any other white man he crossed the Sprague river mountains into Lani^ell's valley, and to Clear lake, the residence of his uncle. Jesse Applegate. This severe test of the good will of the reservation Indians was nobly borne by them, demonstrating on their part the utmost regard for Applegate's person and safety on the dan<j:erous iourney. Arriving at Clear lake on the '2d of December, he found his brother Ivan with a party of six citizens from Linkville, who had been through the country to warn the settlers. They left Linkville on the 1st (»t' December, having been compelled to wait for arms to be sent from Fort Klamatli before setting out. ai'd accompanied by five cavalrymen, detached from Jai k- son's connnand had already visited all the settU'ments If known to them, and learned the fate of the settlers on Tule lake, sending the remains of the l^rotherton family to Crawley's, as alreatly related. Leaving the cavalrymen at Clear lake to protect the family of Jesse Applegate, Ivan and Oliver join, d their forces and searched the countrv to recover tlie bodies of the nmrdered men, without success on tlint day. On tlie 3d Oliver Applegate's i)arty found Sliil- ATPLEGATE'S PARTY. 479 llnglow'g body, which one of the Indian volunteers, a son of old Schonchin, bound upon a horse. Ivan Applegate's party were scattered over several miles of country looking for tlie dead. Two men, Charles Monroe and George Fisck, were left witli a wagon at the Brotherton ])lace to find the body of S( hroeder. Wlien they saw the party of Modocs and Klaniaths approaching, with their leader disguised as an Indian, supposing them to be the enemy, they ik'd into the cover of the tall siige-brush and con- cealed themselves until undeceived l)v the voice of Applegate, wheti they joined him and went with him t< • the house. Wliile Applegate looked over the prem- ises his Indian volunteers sat outside on their horses, an<l Fisck returned to his search for the missing 1) )(lies. Being in the stable. Applegate heard h)ud slirieks, and lookiui; out saw Fisck ridiiiLT at the top of his speed, pursued by Scarface Charley and fifteen others. At Schroeder's ciibin some of the savages lialted to set fire to it, while Scarface kept up the pur- suit of Fisck, who finally gained the stable, which Apj)legate had already began to fortify, piling uj) logs to strengthen the wall, while three of his !Modocs stood guard outside. As the enemy api)roached, the guards fired. The fire was returned, when Scarface i)assed by, and stopped about four hundred yards away to counsel with his party. In ortler to gain time, Applegate directed Jim Sconchhi to go out to them and hold a jtarley. That Applegate had the most entire <oiifi- dtnce in his Indian allies was shown bv this attion; t'lr had Jim the least desire to join the enemy, some <it' whom were his relatives, the opportunity was fur- nished. So far was he from betraying his almost single-handed white leader, that he quite deceived Scarface and his followers, pretendit»g to tluin to have a party of sympathizers at the stable, and oft'er- ing to brinij them out to confer with him. Uunng this conference Jim learned that the hostile r 480 SOME INDIAN EPISODES, Modocs had planned to finish the work of spoliation on that day. Captain Jack, with eighteen warriors, was to operate on the west side of Lost river to the stone ford, cross there, and join Scarface. After they had killed all the men who were out lookin*^ for the dead, and burned all the houses, they would return to Crawley's the same night, and attack Jackson's camp. Charged with these particulars, Jim returned to the stable, which had been hurriedly converted into a fort, with port-holes bristling with guns. Scarface waited some time for the return of his supposed ally, who not coming, he cautiously advanced, and seeing tlie preparations made to receive him knew he had been outwitted. Fearing to make a charge from that side, he to(jk a ci'"cuit and when out of rifie range started at a brisk gait to swoop down upon the stable from the rear. A-^ain Jim Sconchin filled the breach of danger, darting a'cross the open space be- tween the stable and a hayric k, and firing the hay. It flamed u\\ and the attacking party retired to the shelter of the sage-brush, half a mile off. In the meantime the party of white men under Ivan Applegate were at no great distance away, and saw nmch that was transpiring without understanding it. Mistaking his brother's party of Indians for the enemy, and having witnessed the pursuit of Fisck by Scarface and the subsequent burning of the hayrick, Mr Apple- gate supposed that the greater part of Jack's force was at the Brotherton place, and signaling his men to come together, they hastily retreated to Crawley's to inform the commander of the military forces of the whereabouts of the enemy, and also that Fisck and Monroe were killed, as he believed they were, and as they would have been but for his brother. The guns that were fired as signals by Ivan Apple- gate were equally misinterpreted by those in the stable, who feared that Captain Jack had already reached that side of the river, and was attacking the other party. In this supposed imminent peril, a Klamath TERILOUS ENCOUNTERS. 481 railed Whistler was entrusted with the dangerous duty of carrying a message to the niilitar}- camp under a flag of truce. As he did not return, and it was not considered exi)edient to stand a siege under tlie cir- cumstances, when ni«^ht came on the party mounted and set out for Crawley's, preferring the risk of meet- ing the enemy to remaining shut up until Jack should ap}»ear. But the non-appearance of Jack, and the apparent inaction of Scarface, were not occasioned by a fij/lit else- where, as was conjectured. The company oi' Klam- atlis before mentioned as sent by Dyar to reenforce Jackson, had been on a scout down the west side of tlie river under Blow, one of the head men on the reservation, and returning was seen by Jack, who prudently kept concealed. Scarface, too, had been frustrated hi his designs by the flight toward Yainax of two of Sconchin's Modocs, held by him since the aftuir of tlie 21)th. Seizing a favorable ^moment, they set ofl:' at full speed, pursued by half the hostile party, which depletion of his numbers left Scarface without the strength to make an attack. These at the time unknown but favorable circumstances deprived the retreat of a portion of the danger in which it was thought to be involved, and also prevented the plan of an attack on the military camp from being carried into efl:ect as designed. Half way on their journey, Applegate's party were met by Whistler, accompanied by the Klamath cliiefs Dave Hill and Blow, with their company of scouts, who returned with them to Crawley's, where the forces were so arranged for the night that the Indians could not attack without exposing themselves to the fire from two camps a short distance apart. It was discovered next morning that some of the Indians had crawled up within two hundred yards of the camps, but fearing to attack had contented themselves with taking two horses to show their daring. On the morning of the 4th a party of seven citl- Cal. Int. Poc. 81 tn i \ 482 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. zens, with thirty-threo Klaniaths and frIoiKlly IVrodocs, returned to Tule lake and brought in all the deatl ex- cept Miller, whose remains were found about Christ- mas, horribly mutilated; and the Younger Bodtly, who was discovered two weeks earlier. ()n the way to Linkville to bury the dead, on the 5th, Applegate's brothers, who were in charge of the property that remained undestroyed, and of the expedition gener- ally, met a party of fifteen volunteers under Captain Kelly, and learned that their father, L. Apfilegate, had started for Clear lake with seven men from Ash- land. Fearing he might fall into danufer with so small a force, they hastened back to camp that night. and joining Kelly's comp my went on to Brotherton's place with them on the morning of the Gth. When near the lake they could sec about a mile away a party of eight, whether Indians or not they could not tell, and riding along the edge of the lake two white men, who they feared were all that was left of the Ashland party. Ivan Applegate rode forward, and found them to be two advanced guards of a com- pany of cavalry from Camp Bidwell on its way to Crawley's. Taking Applegate, whose face was paliited. for an Indian, the guards would not permit him to come near, but conversed with him at a distance until informed of their mistake. The party of eight, wlio were now known to be white men, and believed to ho the Ashland party, also concealed themselves in tho rocks on the approach of Kelly's party, nor would they come out until the soldiers went to them and explained that their friends wished to join them. It was then found that the party consisted of the seven Ashland men, under Jesse Applegate, his brotlur being unable to ride any farther. They were tryini,' to save st)mc of the property and stock belonging to the murdered men or their bereaved families. brnm l)i'aiii ■•It th (lie ( tliat • ■liter ereek nanuM Botwi campi a S']U£ Entering lower Klamath lake from the scuth is a ismall stream forking toward the west, the southern INDIAN PREPARATIONS. branch Vinj:? known as Cottonwixxl, and the wostorn hiancli as Willow crt'ok. On fuch of those branolu's, ;it tlio crossini^ of the roads, was a ranclio; tluit on tlio Cottonwood helno; owned hv Van Brewer, and that on Willow ereek l>v Fairchild. Anotlier stream entering the lake on the west side was known as Hot creek ; and here too, at the crossing, was a settler named Dorris. Others were livin*; in the vieinltv. Between Dorris' and Fairehild's places was an en- ( aiiip:nent of forty-five Indians called the Hot Creeks, a sniialid band, not yet hostile, but which might be- come so if left to the persuasions or coercion of Captain Jack. These the settlers, after the fight at Lost river, determined to remove to the reservation. The Indians were not unaware of the position in Avliich Jack's band was placed by their refusal to go U|>()U the reservation. Being greatly frightened they easily yielded, and <m the 5th of Decend)er started for the reservation under the charge of Fairchild, Dorris, Colver, and others whom Dyar had been notified to meet at Linkville, where the Indians Avould be turned over to him. I3ut being told bv a drunken German that if they stjirtetl for the reserva- tion they would be killed on the way, they fled. Fairchild, Dorris, l^all and Beswick then deter- mined to make an effort to persuade Captain Jack to surrender, submit to the authorities, and prevent the iin|)ending war. Being personally well known to the Iiulians, they went accompanied by three of the Hot Creeks, and without arms, to seek Jack among the Juniper ridges between Lost river and the lava beds soutli of Tule lake. Thev were successful in finding hhn. and used every argument to influence him to acetpt the proftered peace but without avail. Jack reject(\l any and all overtures that looked toward any inti'rference with his liberty, and boldly declared his <lesirc to fight, telling Fairchild that he wished the soldiers to come, and was prepared for them. Toward i ■■■. n ri S I !■'"( SOME INDIAN EPISODES., his visitors, who ho knew wore actuated by a desire to Have him as well as tiie white men, he condueti'd himself in a friendly mamier, even lendinj^ Fairchild a horso to ride, his own havini^ strayed, or having been stolen by Jack's band. In this conference Jack reiterated his charges against the Indian department, and denied all respon- sibility in the matter of the fight of the 29th of November, saying that the troo[)s fired first; also denying that he or Scarface had had anything to do with the murder of the settlers which followed, say- ing that L(mg Jim was accountable for those atro- cities; pretending to bo quite above killing settlers, and able to fight armed men. The result of the con- ference was twofold. It gave Jack an opportunity to gain over the Hot Creeks who accompanied Fair- child and through them the whole band ; and it convinced the military that no terms need be de- manded of the Modocs until they could enforce an unconditional surrender. War was inevitable ; and the settlers along the route from Lost river to Fairchild's immediately removed their families to Yreka, wl ilc those in other parts of the country were removed to Rogue River valley. Men who must remain in iso- lated localities surrounded themselves with stockades. When Colonel Wheaton received the letter of Superintendent Odeneal, before referred to, it found him confined to his bed with quinsy. He immediately answered that steps had already been taken to con- centrate, if nee ssary, all the available mounted nu ii of Harney, Bid 'ell, Warner, and Klamath to compel the removal of ick's band to the reservation, should they resist; but e trusted there would be no serious difficulty when ti attempt came to be made. In reply to th letter of Colonel Green informing him of Jack's refusal to move, or even to listen to any further parley on the subject, and of Superintendent Odeneal's requisition for a force to intimidate hiiu, 1 \ n f( Whe niand uud c cut's to th tain 1 dutacj (I K men gati! di recti every a iiig thii Would subinisf f^ufficiei fore W miscJiie The Camp \ tJiu way ordered all the n t]ie sanu rnad. I iioKI) eni 3<i of D Biilwell, noon of make for trains, w[ tliat C(»ul( oj.portuni stronghoh <Ji" supplie, In orde: otlier sett seemed th COXCKNTR.VrroX OP TROOPS. 480 Whoaton ronllcf} th^i. i • ■'"■"di-'g '>*oer at Fort^'';;?' '"■''« -'iroctal tI,o con,. ••"" •'"■"IH-l the M„d,,™t,^ :.""*''. '" '•'■T'vs.'nt l,i,„, 'Mt's autl.„rity, U8i„./l|| H,r?""" ""•" ""I'-^riiitoa,!- t;.m Perry's troop i' Z"J" "-^mfiTeo hi,,, witi, Cap- . ota<.|,„.„„t fro,,, 'Ca„;p B w. II „?! '?'• "'"' "'«' » <'• Kyle, wliich would , rive 1^, • I L,eute„a.,t J. '"<■" m addition to Jaefs ,A ^^^''"'y-fivo cavalry. Katu force of 150 conmin i '> '""'''"« »" a««ro. 'li'''-t«I hi,n to proc 'd r^' "'"'1''*'' '■»™''y- He ;'>'0-way sustainCheln r""'"';' "P"" *'"^ <'"ty. in "« tl.at nothing 2re t,,an r"/'''""'^"-'"*- ''"' aJd- «"uld be requi^^d Ta ^ i.tv 'T "['"'I'^^y f'«e ™h„„s.,on. Tl,e consome, ce^:/!'"";' *^"''"^'' ""« »nffi.',ent show of such fo^f, „| ,"",'"}""*'' """'« » f";o Wheaton's order arrK-pd „* p*'^ ,'<""»'" Be- ■>"-l"ef had been con'sSed ''"'■' ^''""''* *« ilio nionient that news of ti ,• Ca'np Warner, WheatonTh-,,?! i , p'^^'f •''"^'''^'l tile way of Yainax to ioin T t ^''"y" '""'P. by '>;;'ored Captain Ber,Sfr [uT"' Crawley 's ,'^L„5 « 1 the n,en that could be sr^Pf '' ?,'<'""^"' *'"• tliu ^n,e point, by the way of ?, ?, *'"" !"«'. *« >■".■« Perry's co.npany {.f! r"- T'*^'"" ^■'"i'mnt ".Mth end of Goose lake vallv "*''*,'"''"<■''"' •" «>« ^1 "t December, and CaS Re *'"!,."'•"'" "^ «'« y«eU „i„ety.six miwC, r^w?'*':'^ ' *'"""1' '' '* '"";" of the followinir dav «?,"•> "' "" *''" '•'■■«. ;"".ke forced marches, anTnoft ^*-<?f« ""ie.c.l to t;«iiis, which w,,uld fo C " I 'i '™" ""• SKpl'ly- l«'t <-"„ld be inadt ateelT' hij,"^^*,"'-''' ,"" «» '-'^te "I'l'ortunity afforded the \r '^'ai'sed, and ample *-"nsbold'they mtht'',3^°j'7 t" rcnove to Z — - «.t a„dl-i-- 1;;-',-. SOME INDIAN EPISODES. Bernard's troop was stationed at Land's place, which was on the east shore of Tule lake, on the border of volcanic country popularly known as the lava beds, and which extended around the southern shore of the lake westward for fifteen miles. From Bernard's camp to that particular portion of the lava beds where the scout had discovered Captain Jack's band to be safely stationed, was about thirteen miles, the trail to the stronghold being over and among masses of broken rock of every size, and similar in character to that which had aflforded the Pit Rivers their secure hiding-places when General Crook attacked them in the autumn of 1867. On the west side of the lava beds was stationed Perry's command, at Van Bre- mer's rancho, distj. t twelve miles from the strong- hold, at the crossing of Cottonwood creek by what was known as Lickner's road, and not far south of the crossing of the Yreka road ; while Jackson remained at Crawley's where Green had his headquarters. As fast as transportation could be procured, the material of war was being gathered. The governors of Oregon and of California were called upon for aid by the citizens of both states, the war being almost equally in both. Governor Booth of California re- sponded by sending arms and ammunition on the call of the settlers near the boundary, the arms being out of date, and the ammunition two sizes too large for tlie arms Governor Grover, requested by Superin- tendent Odencal tv> furnish arms to the people of Oregon, responded by forwarding an immediate sup- ply. The Washington Guard of Portland, Captain Charles S. Mills, tendered its services to the state, but were declined only because a company of volun- teer militia organized at Jacksonville, and anotlior company raised in Klamath basin had already been accepted; the former under John E. Ross, and the latter under O. C. Applegate. Applegate's company consisted of seventy'' men, nearly half of whom were Indians from the reservation, mixed Klamaths, Mo- THE SEVERAL LEADERS. 487 docs, Snakes, and Pit Rivers. They were occupied during the time the regular troops were massing their material, in scouting through the country, to prevent not only fresh outrages on citizens, but to intercept Jack's messengers and spies, whose visits to Camp Yalnax were a source of some uneasiness. Now that Jack had decided upon war, his great endeavor was to gain over the Modocs on the reser- vation as he had done the Hot Creeks, and in order to do this he employed threats as well as entreaties. Those who would not help him were to be considered his enemies, and killed as if they were whites. The Hot Creeks, being oiF the reservation and uirprotected, were easily convinced tliat their safety lay in follow- ing Jack; the reservation Indians were differently placed. So long as they were loyal to their treaty obligations, they could demand the protection of the government. It was even for their interest to assist in putting down Jack, who they knew would scruple at nothing to carry his points, or to draw them into the trouble he was himself in. Sconchin and the most intelligent of the reservation Modocs understood this perfectly. At the same time there was always tlic possibility that Jack might carry out his threat to destroy the camp at Yainax, in which case trouble would follow, either through the coi.llict of the two bands, or through the reservation Iiidlans being frightened into complianci^ witli Jack's demands. Nor was compulsion alone to be feared, but tlie influence of the feeling of kinship, which is strong among the Indians In order to guard against a surprise, the agency buildings were enclosed by palisades, and a guard maintained day and night. When Canby received the report of the battle of the 20th of November and the subsequent slaughters, he ordered Colonel Mason, with a battalion number- ing sixty-four men, to proceed to the Klamath coun- try to join the command of the district of the Lakes, 488 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. i I On the evening of the 3d of December Mason left Portland by special train, accompanied by captains George H. Burton and V. M. C. Silva, and lieutenants W. H. Boyle and H. De W. Moore. On arriving at Roseburg, the roads being very heavy with mud and the transportation of baggage difficult, the remainder of the march to Jacksonville and over the mountains in rain and snow occupied nearly two weeks, so that it was past the middle of December when Mason re- ported to Green at Crawley's. It was not until about the same time that Wheaton, having recovered from his indisposition, reached Green's headquarters from Camp Warner by the way of Fort Klamath, where he found the supply of ammunition nearly exhausted by issues to the settlers on the day after the battle at Jack's camp, necessitating the sending of Captain Bernard with a detachment and wagons to Camp Bidwell for a supply. Meantime neither the Indians nor the troops were idle. Captain Perry was still at Van Bremer's with forty cavalrymen. Colonel Ross, in command of the Jacksonville volunteers, was at Snell's place, near Whittles' ferry. On the IGth of December detach- ments frtmi both companies made a reconnoissance of Jack's position, approaching it within a mile, and be- ing led to believe that it could be surrounded so as to compel him to surrender. Of the strength of the Modoc position the military authorities knew nothing except by rumor up to this time, and had not yet learned definitely much. Few whites had ever visited tliis place, the access to whicji was extremely difficult. It was known that the lava beds contained an area of ten miles square, broken by fissures and chasms from ten to a hundred feet in width, many of them a hun- dred feet deep, and that it abounded in caves, one of which was said to contain fifteen acres of clear space, with an abundance of good water and many openings, the largest of which was of the size of a common door. There were places in the lava beds where grass grew THE LAVA BEDS 489 in small flats, the trails to which were known onlv to the Indians, and where their horses were secure. From the rocky pinnacles with which the region was studded, the advance of an enemy could be discovered five miles off, while from their secure liiding-i)laces the dwellers in this savage Gibraltar could watch their approach within twenty feet. When the stores col- lected in the caves were exhausted, they could steal out through the winding passages, and watching their opportunity drive in the cattle found grazing outside the lava beds ; or could in the same stealthy manner procure fish and fowl from the lake. Nothing could bo stronger or better chosen than the Modoc position. Should amnmnition fail them, they could still make arrows. Even in cold weather little snow foil in the lava bods, and that little soon melted away from the warm rocks. The reconnoissance revealed many if not all these advantages, and impressed all minds with tlie certainty that it would be by hard fighting that Jack would be dislodged. Amotig other things, it revealed the apparent necessity of using howitzers and shells to drive them out of their hiding-places, and terrify them. An order was accordingly sent to Van- couver for two howitzers, waiting for which occasioned still further delay and much impatience among the troops, both regulars and volunteers, the latter having enlisted for thirty days only, and the time being al- ready half spent in comparative inaction. The weather was very cold, besides, and the state troops but ill supplied with blankets and certain articles of [)rovision. Another difficulty presented itself The volunteers being state troops had organized to fight in their own territory, whereas the Modoc stronghold lay just over tlie line in the state of California; but Wheeler and (xreen recognized and letjalized the invasion of Cali- Umua, by ordering Ross to pursue and fight the hostile Indians wherever they could be found, regardless of state lines. ^ m SOME INDIAN EPISODES Actual hostilities were commenced on the 22d of December by Jack's band in force attacking a wagon from Camp Bidwell, with a small detachment under Bernard, when within a mile of camp at Land's, on the east side of Tule lake. One soldier, five horses, and one mule were killed at the first fire delivered from an ambuscade. The sound of their guns being heard at camp. Lieutenant Kyle hastened to the res- cue with nearly all the troops, only ten being mounted. Skirmislnng was kept up throughout the day, the Indians being driven from one rocky ledge to another by tlie superior arms of the troops, the range of which seemed to surprise them greatly. Their object in at- tacking was to capture the ammunition in the wagon, in which attempt they failed, losing their horses, and four warriors killed and wounded. A buijler whom they pursued outran them, and made good his escape to Crawley's, when Jackson's troop was at once sent to the aid of Bernard, but before h's arrival tlie Ind- ians had retreated. About the same time the Indians showed themselves in small parties on Lost river, op- posite the military headquarters, invithig the attack of the soldiers, and also on the mountain near Van Bremer's, wliere Perry and Ross were encamped. Evidently the apparent hesitation of the troops had given them much encouragement. About the 25th of December Wheaton, who was awaiting the arrival of the howitzers and of amnmnition from Camp Bidwell before making an attack on the M(jdoc stronghold, had as above mentioned ordered the Oregon volunteers to the front. Captain Apple- gate, anticipating an early engagement, and fearini; what might happen in the event of the ^lodocs beinjj; driven from the lava beds witliout being captured, sent information of the coming battle to the settlers, and instructed them to fortify. The people in Lan- gell valley nearest the stronghold, preferred going to Linkville ; and while a party of five families were en route they were fired upon by Modocs concealed in I! LrniLY FIGHTING. 491 had was ition the 3red red, ^ers, jan- t.) en II ill the rocky ridge near the springs on Lost river, twenty miles from that place, but were relieved and escorted to their destination by a scouting party. A supply train on its way from Fort Klamath to headcjuarters was also attacked, and a party of the escort wounded, being relieved in the same manner by the volunteers. Applegate having transferred the case of Camp Yainax to Dyar, who with a guard of fifteen men proceeded to take charge, and watch over the friendly Modocs in case of a visit from the hostilos, hastened to join Green's forces at the front, where drilling and S(()utlng continued to occupy the time. Green, who retained command of the troops, under Wheaton, was ordered to attack the Indians whenever, in his judgment, sufficient supi)lies and amnmnition had been received, but not to attack until these had been furnished, and in the meantime to make frequent re- connoissances. Green had never fought the Oregon Indians, and was confident that when his preparations were com- \Acte, he should achieve an easy victory. With the howitzers, and one snow storm, he said, he was ready to betjin. On the 5th of January^ Captain Kelly of the vol- unteers, with a party of twelve men, and five Indian scouts, made a reconnoissance to look for a more prac- ticable route than the one in use from Van Brim- mer's, Green's headquarters, to the ^lodoc stronghold. On the way they came upon a party from Jack's camp of about twenty warriors, evidently upon a fiTaging expedition, who retreated toward camp on being dis- covered, and were pursued by the volunteers for three miles. When overtaken they had dismounted and fortified. The volunteers also dismounted, answering the fire from the rocks which soon brought to the rescue of the beseiged the remainder of Jack's war- riors. The soldiers then retreated to an open field, followed by the Modocs, who, finding their position unfavorable for attack, returned to their stronghold. Hi at SOME INDIAN EPISODES. A run by Applegate with twenty men, around Van Brimmer's hill, as the ridge between Van Brimmer's and the lava beds was called, rev^aled the fact that the Modocs used this height as an observatory whence they informed themselves of the movements of the troops. Scarface afterward said that Applegate's party passed within twenty feet of his hiding place, but he could not safely attack. On the 12th of Jan- uary a scouting expedition, consisting of thirteen men under Perry, a few Klamath scouts under Donald McKay, thirty men, half of them Indians, under Ap- plegate, and the whole under Green, made a recon- noissance to the lava beds from Van Brewer's, to as- certain the practicability of taking wagons to a posi- tion in their front. On the appearance of Green with Perry's detachment, the Modoc pickets fired on them from a rocky point of the high bluff, on the verge of the lava beds. Perry returned their fire, and drovv. the Modoc guard over the bluff, shooting one of Shacknatjfcy's men through the shoulders. Applegate came up in time to observe that the Modocs were scattering in small parties to ascend the bluff and get on the flank of the troops, when he distributed his Indians along the bluff for a considerable distance, in the rocks, to intercept them. Scarface, who was standing upon a high point in the lava beds, discovered the movement, and cried out in a stentorian voice to his warriors, "keep back, I can see them in the rocks." The Modoc guard then fell back half way down the hill, where they made a stand, and uttered speeches of defiance to the soldiers, and entreaty to their Indian allies, reproaching them for joining themselves to their natural enemies the white men. Captain Jack and Black Jim were very confident, daring the troops to come down and fight them on the lava beds. Hooker Jim said, once he had been a peace man, but was now for war, and if tho soldiers wanted to fight, the opportunity should be afforded them. One of their medicine men then MODOC BRAGGADOCIO. 498 made an address to the scouts, entreating them to join the Modocs, saying that if all the Indians should act in concert they would be few enough. Donald McKay answered them in the Cayuse tongue that their hands were red with the blood of innocent white people, for which punishment would surely fall upon them. Jack then said he did not want to fight Cayuses, but soldiers ; and growing indignant, finally invited them to come and fight him, saying he could whip them all. The Klamaths asked permission to reply, but were checked by Green, who did not think the comnmnication profitable to either side. A retreat was ordered, it not being the intention of Green to fight on that day, and with so small a force. To this Applegate's Klamaths were opposed, saying that the troops had the advantage of position, and could easily do some execution on the Modocs. As the force of Green withdrew. Jack's men resumed their position on the high bluff, and Applegate's com- pany being then on the summit of the second ridge wished to open on them, but were restrained, and the command returned to headquarters. It was now the middle of January, and nothing had been done to relieve the public suspense. The settlers in Klamath valley remained in the fort. The road from Tule lake southward was closed. Fairchild and Dorris had converted their places into fortified camps. There was talk of other settlers being exposed, and of volunteer companies forming in some of the northern California towns to go to their assistance ; in fact Mr Dorris had been selected to make personal application to the California governor in their behalf. But this functionary had other advisers, and had made or did soon make a recommendation to the government to set apart five thousand acres of land, in the vicinity preferred by Captain Jack, as a reservation for the Atodocs ; and implied at least that it was a desire for speculation on the part of the Indian department m m 4M SOME INDIAN EPISODES. Oregon which brought on the war ; a charge justly resented by the people of southern Oregon The government, however, declined to yield any further to the demands of Captain Jack or his intercessors. On the IGth of January, everything being in readi- ness and the weather foggy, which answered in lieu of a snowstorm to hide the operations of the troops, the army moved upon Jack's stronghold. General orders had been issued on the 12th concerning the disposition of the troops, and the most perfect under- standing prevailed as to the duty expected of every division of the forces. The regulars in the field numbered two hundred and twenty-five, and the vol- unteers about one hundred and fifty. The latter con- sisted of the Jacksonville company, the Klamath com- pany, and Fairchild's California company of twenty- four sharpshooters who offered their services on the 16th. At four o'clock in the morning Colonel Green, with Captain Perry's troops, moved up to the bluflf on the south-west of Tule lake, to clear it of Modoc ])i('kets and scouts, and cover the movement of the main force to a camp on the bluff three miles west of tlie Modoc stronghold, located so as not to be observed by the enemy. By three in the afternoon the whole force on the west side of the lake, consisting of Mason's battalion ; two companies of infantry under Captain Burton and Lieutenant Moore ; a detachment of an- other company, under sergeant John McNamara; the Oregon volunteers, commanded by General John E. Ross ; two companies under captains Hugh Kelly and O. C. Applegate; Lieutenant Miller's howitzer battery ; Captain Fairchild's sharpshooters — all but seven of the scouts, dismounted, and provisioned with cooked rations for three days, had been meanwhile encamped in a juniper grove, with a picket line thrown out along the edge of the bluff, and another around the camp. Captain Bernard's force on the east side of the CRAWLING INTO THE STRONGHOLD. 495 lake, consisting of his own and Captain Jackson's couipanios, and twenty regularly enlisted Klaniatli scouts under Dave Hill, had been ordered to move up to a point not more than two miles from the Modoc position, to be in readiness to attack at sunrise ; but proceeding in ignorance of the ground, he came so near to the stronghold that he was attacked and obliged to retreat with four men wounded. The camp was early astir on the morning of the 17th. As the troops looked down from the high blutf upon the lava beds, the fog which ovorl^ung it resembled a quiet sea. They were to plunge down into til is, and feel for the positions assigned them. Mason with the infantry occui)ied a position on the left of the line, resting on the lake, with Fairchilds sharpshooters flanking him; to the right of the in- fantry were the howitzers; in the centre General Whcaton and staff, Major General Miller and General Ross and staff; on tlie right of the generals cai)tains Kelly and Applegate; and on the extreme right Captain Perry's troops, dismounted ; Colonel Green in command of the whole. Descending the bluff by the narrow trail, surprised at meeting no Modoc pickets, the troops gained their positions in the order given about seven o'clock. Hardly had the line formed when the Modocs opened fire. It had been the desii'n of Wheaton to move out on the riuht until Green's command met Bernard's in front of the Modoc position, when three shots should bo fired by the howitzers to announce a parley, when Captain Jack would be given an op[)ortunlty to surrender. But to carry out this progrannne, it was soon dis- covered, was impossible. The Modocs were not to be surrounded in their stronghold and asked to cajjitu- late, but forced the troops to fight for every foot of ground on the way toward it. On account of the density of the fog — which now was found to be an obstacle instead of a help to suc- cess in reaching the central cave, the Indians having 406 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. the advantaj^e of being familiar with the passages among the rocks, whereas the troops were obliged to scramble over and among them as best they could, at the risk of falling any moment into an anjbush — the movement aimed at on the right was extremely slow. Nevertheless, it was steadily pushed forward, all caution being used, the men sometunes lying down and crawling prone over the rocks within a few yards of the Indians, who could be heard talkhig, but who seldom could be seen, though they were able to see through openings in their defences the approaches of the troops as far as the fog would permit. The howitzers, which had been so much relied upon to demoralize the Indians proved useless so long as the enemy's position was concealed from view. The line, after advancing a mile and a half, was halted, and a few sheila thrown, causing some excite- ment among the Modocs, over whose heads they passed, falling beyond Bernard's line on the east side of the stronghold ; but through fear of hitting Ber- nard's troops the firing of the battery was suspended and Green pushed on the west line by a series of short charges another mile and a half passhig over ravines running and sounding the war-whoop. It is related by Applegate that Green, who during this advance carried one of his gloves carelessly iu his hand, was frequently shot at by the concealed Modocs, who attributed his immunity from harm to some charm or "medicine" contained in this glove. They also shot at Captain Applegate and his brother Ivan who accompanied him, with similar results, from which they inferred these persons had received pro- tection from a miraculous power, and that powder and shot were wasted upon them. The recklessness of Green was remarked upon by his command as well as by the Indians. About one o'clock the extreme right of the line, which now enveloped the stronghold on the west and south, was brought to a halt by an immensely deep APPLEGATES NARRATIVE. 497 and wide ravine which soparuted it from Bernard's line on the otlier side, and which strongly guarded tlie stronghold, being close at hand. Green at once saw that it could not be crossed without an inunense sacrifice of life. A consultation with Wheaton and other officers led to a change of plan, and it was de termined to move the west line by the left around tlie north side of the Modoc position, along tlie shore of the lake, connecting with the right of Bernard's force from that direction. An order was given to reorganize the Hue for withdrawal, which, owing to the difficult nature of the ground, was not understood by all the officers, and created a confusion which but for the all-enveloping fog might have resulted in a heavy loss. " While we were charijing down this ravine," writes Applogatc, "I fell, probably from the etl'ect of a shot. RL'Covering myself, I joined the line, jumped the canon at the bottom, and took up position on a sage plain on the otlier side. Such a volley met us that the sage brush was mown down above our heads where we lay. Then came the order Look out for Bernard! The volley was from his line. While pre- paring to charge the stronghold, I saw the troops on the left withdrawing. I did not understand the movement, but kept place in the skirmish line. I saw a soldier fall, one of Perry's men, and took cliarge of him. On nearing the brink of the strons:- hold I found most of the troops had passed under the bluff, and the rapid firing gave notice that a severe conflict was going on there. A message was received from General Wheaton to report to head- quarters for orders, which I did, and found that the regulars had already passed around to the north side of the lava bed to join Bernard, and that Wheaton wanted the volunteers to remain with the headquar- ters. I was ordered to take my men to the lake for water, after which I formed a line in advance of cal. Int. Poc. 82 ^H m SOME INDIAN EPISODES headquarters in a series of crags parallel witli tlie stroni^liolcl, and fought the Modocs as we moved. "Hooker Jim was lying behind a wall of stone, appearint' to command the Modocs on the left of tlio stronghold. His voice was known to the Indians with me; he was callin«j attention to the fact that tlie regulars were hopelessly separated from the volun- teers, and that by moving around our right flank tliey could cut off our retreat. I sent Lieutenant Hizer to headquarters to report this. I then saw a signal- fire s[)ring up beh.ind Hooker JimV position, and then anoth(;r, three hundred yards to the west, and heard the war-cry repeated there, and knew the Modocs were making a movement to cut us off. I then went to headquai-ters myself and reported the situation. General Wheaton had made preparations to remain in a little cove on the shore of the lake over night, but now determined to return to the hi<rh bluff We could not safely have remained with only a hundred men, burdened with the wounded and artillery, and after fighting the Indians all ni^ht we should have been prevented getting to the bluff, and probably all massacred. ■* On getting my report. General Wheaton ordered me to withdraw from the rocks and lead the retreat, Kelly to cover tlie rear, and to fall back four milos. I kept out a skirmish line to the left until the men were exhausted and falling. When it became so dark it became difficult to follow the trail, I put one of my Modocs on the advance as guide, who led us out to tlie top of the bluff. So suddenly was the movement effected that the eiienn' did not discover it. We ay reached camp at elevca »'clock, wearied to death." The Modocs resorted to many devices to deceive the troops, such as wearing sage-brush fastened on their heads to conceal their movements, and settin<5 up rocks of the size of a man's head on their breast- works to draw the fire of the soldiers, who shot hun- dreds of bullets before they discovered the trick. r A DISCOUIIAOINO DAY. 409 By the time the volunteers, who during the skir- mishing along the route had changed pt)aiti«)n with Perry's troop, reached headquarters, the regulars, who were now all in the advance, had made the coimection hv their left with BernartI, encountering a destructive fire as they iwissed between the stronghold and the lake, where was a ravine only less danj'erous than that on the south side. A detachment oi Burton's coni- l»any of infantry and Fairchild's riHemen had pushed forward and taken position in a pile of rocks near this crossing to cover the troops as they passed. But, as Wlieaton afterward expressed it, on their side there "was nothing to fire at but pufl's of smoke issuing from cracks in the rocks," while every movement of a soldier was likely to be observed by the Modocs, who swarmed behind their well selected defences. The most of the troops passed by crawling over the rocks on their hands and feet, suffering terribly, but Burton's and Fairchild's companies were not able to extricate themselves until after dark. After passing the first ravine, Bernard, who could not be seen for the fog, called across a point of the lake to say that he was within four or five hundred yards of the Modoc posi- tion, and Green determined to join him if possil>le, and charge the stronghold before dark, but after advancing aloiujj the lake shore under fire from the overhanjjinj' clifl's, he found himself confronted with a deep chasm ill Bernard's front so well defended that he had not been able to cross it all day, and had also to defend himself from a flank movement by the Modocs on his left. While in this discouraging position, the fog lifted, and a signal was received from the general. The day was now well-nigh spent, and it was by tliis time evident that there was nothing to be gained, even with plenty of time, by exposing the volunteers to the same ordeal through which the rci^ulars had l>assed. It was plainly impossible to capture the stronghold with the men and means at command. AVheaton therefore ordered the volunteers to remain 000 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. where they were, signalled Green to come into camp if he thought best, while he himself prepared to spend the night in a small cove on the shore of the lake. But the Indians had observed the separation of the volunteers from the regulars, and were making prei)a- rations to surrc/und them by getting between tlieni and the high biuff where stores of amnmnition and supplies had been left in charge of only ten men. Signal fires were already springmg up in that direc- tion, and other indications given of the intentions of the Indians. Upon this discovery Whoaton deter- mined to fall back to camp, and again signalled Green of his change of plan, authorizing him to withdraw to Bernard's camp at Land's rancho, fourteen miles dis- tant. The forces on the west side were all of Koss' command, a portion of Perry's troop, and the infantry reserve, separated by the fog from the main force during the flank movement. Just at dark the retreat to camp began, Applogate's company leading, tlio wounded with the artillery in tlie centre, Kelly's com- pany and Lieutenant Ross' detachment skirmisl dug with the Indians in the rear. As night advanced tlic Modocs withdrew, and stumblmg along the rocky trail the command on the west reached the camp i)f the night before about midnight, thoroughly ex- hausted. But if they found a march of four miles under the circumstances exhausting. Green's forces wore in a worse position. Fearing to expose his men a second time to the peril of passing the Modoc position, when night had fallen he commenced the march of fourteen miles over a trail fit only for a chamois to travel, car- rying the wounded in blankets, or on the backs of ponies captured during the day. One of Fairchilds men. Jerry Crook, whose thigh-bone was shattered. rode the whole distance with his leg dangling. ] lis comrades tied a rope to it by which it could be lifted out of the way of obstacles; but nothing could pre- vent frequent rude shocks from the rocks and bushes. iiiij. MODOC VICTORY. 601 The sufferings of the wounded were horrible. Nor were they ended when they came to Bernard's camp, for on the lOth they were sent to Fort Klamath, sev- enty miles away, over a rougli road, three miles of which were naked boulders. And there were others whose sufferintjs were aujoniziny; to bear or to behold. It was not until between one and two o'clock p. M. of the 18th that Green's command reached camp. When a halt was called, the men fell asleep standing or rid- iiiij. Their clothes were in shreds from crawlimj among the rooks; their shoes were worn away from their feet. If tliey had been a month in the field, tliey could not have looked more used up in every way. After making arrangements for the removal of the wounded to Ftirt Klamath under charge of Jack- son with an escort of twenty men on the night of the I'Jth, Green and Mason returned to headijuarters on tlie night of the 18th, attended by ten Indian scouts, takinjj the road around tlie north side of the lake. The loss sustained in tlie reconnoissance — it was no more — of tlie 17th was nine killed and thirtv wounded, including in the latter list Captain David Perry and Lieutenant John G. Kyle of tlie regulars, both wounded at the crossing of the ravine before the stronghold, and Lieutenant George Roberts of the Calif :rnia vol- unteer riflemen. The dead were left upon the field, or if alive when left, were soon despatched by tlie Indian women. There was no doubt that the army had suffered a total defeat at the hniids of the Modocs, or that the army officers were surprised by it. Their utterances after the affair were very different from their confident predictions before the trial. "The ditticulties encountered in moving to connect our lines l)y the lake side were very great," Wheaton reports, "tlie troops being hardly able to crawl over the sharp locks and lediT'^" that separate them, and at the same time fight a Nvcil-entrenched and desperate enemy, jiroverbially skillful as marksmen, and armed with good rifles. Bernard had been unable during the en- 602 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. n ! tire day to advance across the gorge in Lis front; tlie movement toward his right was not accompHshed until nearly dark, and sunset found the troops too nmch exhausted to render a night attack practicable. It was evident to all that we had not force enough to invest the enemy's position, or artillery enough to shell him out of it. ... I have never before encoun- tered an enemy, civilized or savage, occupying a posi- tion of such great natural strength as the IModoc strt)nghold, nor have I ever seen troops engage a bet- ter armed or more skillful foe." "It is utterly impossible tt) give a description of the place occujMed by the enemy as their strongliold," says Green. " Everything was done by officers and men that could be done ; troops never behaved better. They contended gallantly with an enemy hidden by rocks, deep gorges, and fog ; we tried it on every side with the same result." "I will leave it to others," remarks Mason, "to find language to convey an ade(juate idea of the almost impassable charactir of the country over which these operations were conducted, and which make the Modoc posititui a second Gibraltar." And Bernard savs, "I have wished, respectfully, to say that the place the Indian now occujiy cannot be taken by a less force than si'Vi ii hundred men; and to take the place by an assault by this force will cost half tlie C()mmand in killed and wounded. A large force, well supi)lied, judicit)usly handled, moving at night by ap[>roaches, piling np rocks to ])rotect themselves so they can operate dur- ing the day, may take the place. Howitzers could bo eilectually used on the east side of the lava beds." No blame could attach to any hi consequence of defeat. The soldier should have antici})ations of vii'- torv, and a tjeneral should believe in his own skill. There had been no drawbacks; the officers had gono into the fight fully prepared, even to the fog niii( h was to conceal their advan(e; and though tiiis »ir- circumstance, ov its constant coutiimancc, was BICKERINGS OF THE WHITE MEN. son mentioned as tletrinicntal, there could be no doubt that it was a great protection to the troops, and that \vithout it the loss would have been twice as great. All through the Indian wars there was no small jeal- ousy between volunteers and regulars. In this in- stance Applegate was accused of doing nothing with his company when, in reality, he was pre[)aring to charge the stronghold at the other end of the line wlien ordered to withdraw, and lost two of his men. Bo vie savs the Orcijon vt)lunteers were discouraged, and therefore failed to keep up the connection with the riglit of Perry, when the fact is that so far from ht M^ discouraged or reluctant to join Perry on their hey had passed Perry and were on his right, ri'i iiwi s(, far in advance of him that when the connnand was given to withdraw toward tlie left they did not luar it and were left behind. A portion of Perry's troop which failed to connect was excused on account nf the fog. Boyle dismisses the volunteers with the rciuark tliat altliouy-li there were a few brave men among the volunteers, notabl}'. Captain Kelly and JiieutenantReam, "their services did not renmnerate tl 10 government for the rations consunied and the large amount of forage furnislied their horses." Boyle, be- ing (|uartermai-iter, may have felt tlie drain on his siij)pJio&; but as t.(. the value to the government of anything tl'Jt vk,' done in the Modoc country about this time, lux alight have been grave question with- out casting shu'^ up*»u the pco})le of Oregon. For some re.'^*-- n, vvhich could probably be explained in military circles, Boyle also blames Cajitain Bcrnaid t' »r the slaughter whicli occurred in passing tlu" strong- hold on the north, sayinij that he did ni>tobev Colonel < Irien s order to advance his left and draw the tire of the ModtK's while the troops were trying to make the <'onnectioi\ vith his forces; and this, although Green says in ln.> .port that he "sent Bernard with his troop to di'^ them — the Indians — back, whicli he dill successiUi.y," Bernard had more than his share f ■ {. ■n i IKS ji. h H p[-1 t t k nr im SO:\IE INDIAN EriSODES. cf ihc fii'litiii'i to do, the Indians in front of him bcinix in greater numbers than at any other point. In a desperate encounter, such as this one, the troops needed the inspiration of cool and confident officers ; but Captain Jackson was so ill this day that, accord- ing to Bernard, he should have been in the hospital, " falling several times upon the ground from exhaus- tion." Doubtless his lieutenants behaved valorously, but it is plain that Bernard had his hands full, and that he received blame which should not have been accorded to him. o^ the Modocs was unknown, great. They were consid- nidition for making sudden The loss on the s\^>" but was not thought ered to be in as good descents on the settlements as before the battle ; and Applegate's company was sent to Lost river to pro- tect tliose nearest to the stronghold. In fact thcv were scouting within six miles of Lost river on the 19th, wlien Lieutenant Ream with twenty -five volun- teers was on his way to Bernard's camp with the horses belonging to Fairchild's company. They ];ad captured the arms and annnunition of the fallen sol- diers, which was considerable, as the troops were or- dered to have one hundred rounds on their ^ ^sons, and fifty rounds lU close reserve. The time for which the Jacksonville volunteers had enlisted, thirty days, had expired on the Gth, the prospect of a battle only having detained them beyond that time; and as tlioy had left their homes and business without preparation, at a moment's warning, they were now anxious to re- turn. The possibility that the result of the battle of the 17th miffht cause an excitement on the reserva- tion, rendered the presence of Captain Applegate at Yainax desirable. In consideration of these circumstances. General Wlieaton, on reaching Van Brimmer's, sent a dispat('\ to Portland bv the wav of Yreka, askinix General Canby for tliree hundred foot-troops and four mortars, and suuyresting that the governor of California be PE.VCE POLICY. 505 called upon "to send volunteers to protect that portion of his state open to incursions from the jModocs. To this demand Canby responded by ordering two com- panies of artillery and two of infantry from the de- ]>.irtment of California, and one of artillery and one of infantry from the department of the Columbia ; and, as the inliabitants of Surprise valley apprehended an uprising of the Snakes on account of the !Modoc ex- citement, a company of cavalry was sent to their protection, making the number of troops, when the reinforcements should arrive in the Modoc country, six hundred exclusive of ihe garrisons at the several posts in the district of tiie Lakes. But even with these, the country being in parts inadequately guarded, the general sent a recommendation to army lieadquar- tors at Washington that conditional authority should ho given him to call upcm the governors of Califc^rnia and Oregon for two companies of volunteers from each state. On the 23d the encampment at Van Brimmer's was abandoned, the troops and stores being removed to Lost river ford, where a permanent encampment was made, and where preparations were carried on for re- newing the attack when the reinforcements should arrive. These preparations consisted in constructing two mortar boats with which to attack from the lake- side, while attacking at the same time from the land, surroundino; and batterin<i down the stronL^hold — a })lan which, had it been suffered to go mto execution, would have put an end to the Modoc war. But now occurred one of those blunders of admin- istration which have periodically marred our Indian policy On the 30th of January General Slierman was di- rected by the secretar\' of war to notify General Canby by telegraph that offensive operations against the Mo- docs should cease, the troops being used only to pro- ti'ct the citizens and repel attacks. The explanation soon followed A peace commissioner was to under- 606 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. take to acconipliLih what the inilitar}^ had fiiilcd to tlo — conquer tlie obstinate hostility of the Modocs and obtain their consent to go upon some reservation, if not upon that one where by the terms of treaty they belonged. But if Wheaton was surprised at this wholly unex- pected change of policy, he was equally mortified at being relieved of his command at the same time by Colonel Alvan C. Gillem of the 1st cavalry. Nor was the dissatisfaction on this account confined to himself, but was shared by most, if not all, of Ins offi- cers, and the state authorities and people as well. That Canby regarded the change of policy as a re- flection on himself also, seems to be indicatetl bv his t >leorram to Sliernian, in answer to the new order from the president and war department. He said tliat hostilities with the Modocs could not have been avoided, as they were determined to resist, and had made their preparatiims ; that he had been solicitous that they should be fairly treated, and had taken care that they should not be coerced until their claims had been decided upon by the proper authority; liavi:i^' done tliat, he now thought tliev should be treated like any other criminals, as there would be no peace on the frontier until they were subdued and punished. Two or three months later the government was pre- pared to acknowledge Canby 's good judgment. Slierman rejilied to Canby protest : "Let all de- fensive measures proceed, but order no attack on tlic Indians till the former orders are modified or changed by the President, who seems disposed to allow tln^ ]ieace men to try their hands on Captain Jack." How significant of his opinion of what was going on at Washington is Sherman's dispatch 1 In the mean- time the President and Secretary Delano had an in- terview with Secretary Belknap, after which Delano informed the secretary of war that he had decided to sond to the scene of the difficulties a commission con- sisting of three persons, witb instruction to ascertain PEACE COMMISSIOJf. 807 tlio causes which led to the existing liostilitics, and tlie most eftective measures for preventing their con- tinuance. The Secretary of the Interior further gave it as his opinion hi the instructions, that it was advis- able to remove the Modocs to some new reservation, invsumably the Coast reservation; and directed the commissioners to endeavor to get their consent to be })laoed there, unless in their judgment some other ]>lace should be better adapted to accomplishing the purpose of the department to make peace. The com- missioners were directed not to interfere with the military, otherw.se than express a wish that no unnec- t'ssary violence should be used toward the Modt)cs, whose confidence the government desired to obtahi, uiul their voluntary consent to whatever regulations miiiht be made. As the chairman of the commission, IMeacham, had to come from Washington, some time nmst elapse be- fore the object for which it was organized could be accomplished, or the business begun. This interval was not without its exciting episodes. Between the 17th of Januarj' and the 4th of Februar}^ eight Mo- docs had been killed, as many wounded, and nearly all then- horses captured, their princli)al loss occurring oil the 25th of January, when, emboldened by tlieir hito victory, they attacked the rear guard of Bernard's tiain while moving camp from the southeast corner of Tule lake to Clear lake. They captured one wagon, when Bernard returned and fought tlu'm. No losses Wire sustained by the troops. The capture of their liorses was a serious blow to the Modocs, who were tlms deprived of the means of making their predatory excursions into the surrounding country, either for pui'|)()ses of attack, or to procure subsistence. Being shorn of a part of his strength, Captain Jack resorted to his native cunniny:, and allowed it to be s'M(l tlint he was tired of war. A constant connnuni- cation was kept up between Jack's camp and the Ind- 1 '^ m SOME INDIAN EPISODES. ion women living with wliite men in Siskiyou county, the latter visiting the lava beds and carrying informa- tion. Soon after the battle of the 17th, and about tlie time of Bernard's last skirmish, an Indian woman from Dorris' made a stolen visit to Jack's camp, bring- ini; back with her when she returned another Indian woman named Dixie, who conveyed a message to Dorris and Fairchild from Jack, requesting them to meet him for a conference, at a place appointed, where they might come unarmed, without being molested. Dixie brought the further news, that on the 1 8th a quarrel had occurred among the Modocs because Jack and Bogus Charley had not fought on the day of the battle, and that in tlie difficulty Jack had been shot tlirough the arm, all of which was intended to create the belief tliat there was a peace party among tlie Mod(Jcs, of wliich Jack was the head. Tliis familiar phase of Indian diplomacy did not de- ceive anyone ; but Fairchild beint; anxious to converse with Jack, if indeed he wished to have a conference, went out to the bluff overlooking the lava beds, and sent Dixie to inform Jack that he would see him there, and that should he come he would not bo harmed ; but Jack refused to leave his camp. After sending messages back and forth for some time, Jack offered to come half-way, a proposition declined by Fairchild, who finally sent word he would receive him at his camp on the blufT anytime up to the evening of the 1st. Jack, however, did not come; and it was believed by many that he had only made an effort to get Fairchild into his power, wliile others thought ho really desired peace, but was afraid to risk being cap- tured. Whatever his motives were, a scouting party of his men, after a quiet interval of two weeks, ven- tured out and burned the house of Denis Crawley, made historical by the events of the 29th of Novem- ber, and escaped again to their caves, though pursued by the troops. Meantime the forces ordered to the Modoc country lllOf SETTLERS INDIGNANT. ' 809 by Canby were slowly collecting, embarrassed by the difficulty of inoviug in midwinter. Gillem proceeded to Yreka, where he was met by Major Throckmorton from San Francisco, with h.is infantry comma.id, and tooether they pushed forward to Van Brimmer's through a heavy snowstorm, the troops having marched all the way from Redding. A company had been ordered from Camp Gaston, which was compelled to march fifteen days in severe weather before arriv- ing at Yreka. The transportation of supplies was even more difficult than moving troops, though it went steadily on. On the 3d and 4th of February the Oregon volun- teer regulars nmstered out. There were at this time 200 men at Wlieaton's camp on Lost river, and 100 at Bernard's new camp at Applegate's on Clear lake, while Perry's company was divided between Dorris', Fairchild's and Small's places for their protection. The artillery and other troops were still en route ; but there were men enough in the immediate vicinitv of the Modoc stronghold to prevent any very open demonstrations on their part had it been their inten- tion to make them. On the 4th of February Gillem took up his headquarters at Van Brimmer's, as being nearer the telegraph station of Yreka, soon after es- tablishing a tri- weekly line of couriers to and from tliat place. While these preparations were making for war, the commissioners who were to bring about a peace were also on their way to the front. When the people most interested in all these pro- ceedings learned that an effort was to be made to coax the Modocs to accept peace and the reservation of their choice instead of punishing them, there was a general feeling of indignation, and the grand jury of Jackson county on the 14th of February indicted eight of Jack's band as being guilty of the slaughter of the 29th and 30th of November on the evidence of Mrs Brotherton and her son who identified them. This step was taken in order to forestall the possible I ! 610 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. action of the peace commission in removing tliom be- yond the reach of the laws. The sentiment of the sufferers by the Modoc outbreak, and those best in- formed upon the subject, was that it was an insult to the state, and an outrage upon mdividuals for the govcrmnent to open this door of escape for Jack and his band. The connnissloners appointed by the government to conduct the negotiations with Captain Jack wire at first A. B. Meacham, L. B. Odeneal, and J. H. Wilbur; but Meacham refusing to serve with either of these men for personal reasons, Jesse Applcgatc and Samuel Case were substituted. Canby was ad- vised of the appointments, and also that the commis- sions wore instructed to meet and cimfer with him at Linkville on the 15th of February. The com- mission was not, however, organized until the 18tli, owing to the failure of Meacham to arrive on the day appointed. There was a general feeling that tl.e conunission would be a fiiilure, a fact which was ac- knowledged by its chairman while j-^et at Yreka, in a telegram to Washington, conveying the intelligence that Governor Grovcr had filed a protest with tie board against any action of the commission wlii< ]i should purport to condone the crimes of the ]Modo( s, who should be given up and delivered over to the civil authorities for trial and punishment ; and hisist- ing that the commissioners could have no power to declare a reservaticm on the surveyed and settled lands of Lost river anv more than on the settled lands in any other portion of the state. To this pro- test, which was forwarded to the secretary of the hitcrior, Delano returned answer that the commissi( u should proceed without reference to it; and that if the authority of tlie United States was defied or resisted, the government would not be responsible fr the results, and the state might be left to take care of the Indians without assistance from Washington. To this somewhat insolent message the people could SAVACIE AND CIVILIZED DIPLOMACY. 511 only reply by still protesting. The commissioners, UiidcT tiie orders of the government, repaired to Fair- child's rancho in order to be nearer Captain Jack's headquarters, as well as to be placed in earlier connnu- iiication with army headquarters and with Washington 1 ly meansof courier and telegraph, and conmienced their labors. On his way to Fairchild's, at Yreka, ^leacham expressed the opinion in public that Jack was an hont)rable man, and would go upon a reservation if requested by him to do so; but in his dispatches to Secretary Delano he Avas l(>ss hopeful. A messenger was immediately sent to Whittle's ferry to secure the services of Bob Whittle and his Indian wife Matilda in carrvinoj on negotiations with Jack. Pendinof the result of Matilda's interview with Jack, she havinjx been sent to solicit a conference between the Modocs and the commissioners, the board entered upon an invest!' >-ation, so far as thev were able, of the causes of the present attitude of the ^lodocs toward the government and the people of Oregon. On the "Jlst of February, the chairman telegraphed to tlie actinij commissioner of Indian affairs at Wash- iiiirton, that his messenjjer to Jack had returned brinor. ing tlie intelligence that the Modocs were expecting some one to come to them with a message; that they wore tired of living in the rocks, and desired peace; were glad to hear from Washington, but did not wish to talk with anvone who had been en«jja<j;ed in the war; and that if Case and Meacliam would meet them outside the rocks they should not be harmed. That was not, however, what was reported to the commis- sion by Bob Whittle, who said that the Indians, twentv in number, met him accidentallv a mile and a lialf from camp. The two parties advanced within TOO yards of each other, dismounted, and laying down tlieir arms, went forward and shook hands. Jack and Sconchin, with seventeen armed men, soon came up, and dismounting, also shook hands. Whit- tle then made known his errand, and Jack consented '■'■ 612 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. to a confereHce if Steele and Roscborougli, of Yreka, and Faircliild should bo presuiit, but declined to meet the conunissionerd, saying that though their hearts might bo good they Were unacquainted witli them, and desired their friends to be present. The president had already anticipated their wishes, and by the advice of Canby appointed lloseborougli as one of the conmiissionera; and in comi)any witli Stoijle, who, it was thought, would bo useful in com- municating with the Modocs, the new commissiom r was on his way to the front, when a second interview was had with Captain Jack. At this meeting, on the 24th of February, Whittle was met a mile from the lava beds by a party of forty Modocs heavily armed, carrying needle guns, but declaring that tliey had no disposition to fight, and only wanted peace. Jack boasted to Whittle that he was not yet so thoroughly incensed as ho might be, and pointed hi evidence t > the fact that the houses of Dorris, Faircliild, Van Brimmer, Small, and Wliittle, were yet standing; saying again that he would consent to talk wit Steele, Roseborough, or Faircliild. No propositi( on either side were made for peace, negotiations (-. this character being left to be considered in general council, should a council be arranged. Meantime Jack was growing impatient, and expressed a desire to have the meeting with the commissioners ovei-. A Modoc named Dave returned to the camp of tlio commissioners with Whittle, and on the following day took a message to Jack that Faircliild would visit him on the 26th to arrange for the council. Accordingly, on that day Fairchild visited Jack, accompanied, not by Whittle and Matilda, but by Hiddle, and his Indian wife Toby, as interpreters. He was charged to tell Jack that the commissioners would come in good faith to make peace, and thougli he, Fairchild, could not give them the terms, he would fix upon a place and time of meeting, and whatever he agreed to would be accepted. But Jack would MORE CONFERENCES. 513 not consent to come out of the lava beds to Iiold a council, nor would Fairchild agree that the coininis- sioiKirs should go unarmed into the lava beds. Fair- child therefore returned without having come to any urrant'eniont: and with him camu several of the worst of Jack's band, Hooker Jim, Curly-hi^aded Doctor, a:i(l Shacknastv" Jim, who wished to make terms with Lalake, tlie old chief of the Klaniaths, for the return of a banil of sixty horses which the Klamaths had taken from the Alodocs during the war, and which Ldake now promised to restore. No one had any iiuthority to interfere or to prevent the Modocs thus supplying themselves with liorses, while pretending to bj waiting to make peace with the agents of the government. Oil the arrival of Roscborough and Steele the h )ard of commissioners met, when the terms of peace which should be presented to Jack were discussed. The discussion resulted in ofFcring a g- iieral anuujsty to all Modocs, on condition of their full and complete suTendcr, and consent to remove to a distant roser- v.itioii within the limits of Oregon or California; all c )iiiinlssioners voting for these terms except ^leacham. Fiiirchild was also instructed to say that Cauby would make peace and conclude terms, !Meacham also dis- senting from this proposition. With tlioso instructions Steele proceeded, on the otli of March, in company with R. II. Atwcll, a newspaper rcportor, Fairchild, and the interpreters, lliildle anJ his wife Toby, to the Modoc strongiiold, a; 1(1 had a conference with tlie head men concerning tli'j acceptance of these propositions of the peace com- nussion. Captain Jack gave his consent to the terms offered, and a3 Steele supposed accepted for his band, though there was evidently some dissatisfacti(>n on the part of a portion of his men. As Steele had but little knowledge of the Modoc language, and as Jack spoke no English except a few English names of tilings, Steele was deceived as to the real import of Cal. Int. Poc. S3 514 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. what was going on, and misunderstanding Jack's pro- fessions of peaceable intent, fully believed he had bound his people to surrender to the government and accept its mercy. The mistake seems to have been a singular one, inasmuch as Riddle and his wife were the best of interpreters, and both Steele and Fairchild familiar with Indian manners; besides which, Scarface could speak English, and probably some of the others. On returning to headquarters Steele reported that peace was made ; the Modocs accepted. An immedi- ate feeling of relief was experienced by the commis- sioners, who set about preparing despatches and sunnnoning couriers, when Fairchild declared there was a mistake in the report; the Modocs had not agreed to a surrender and removal. So confident was Steele that he had understood Jack correctly tliat he proposed returning and having a second interview. Fairchild, equally positive there had been a misunder- standing, and fearing the effect when Steele's report became known to the Modocs, declined to expose him- self to their rage. Meacham, in view of these con- flicting opinions, cautiously reported that he had reason f )r believing an honorable and permanent peace would be concluded within a few days, at the same time so guarding his statements as to commit himself to no particular theory. This caution was well timed, as the result of Steele's second interview proved. On returning to the cave the same evening, he found the Indians nnich excited, by what it was difficult to toll. Hooker Jim and tlie others who visited the camp at Fairchild's might have been alarmed by stories received from go-between Indian women and vicious white men ; this was the view adopted by the friends of the Modocs. But there were other circumstances that looked like pie- meditated deceit and treachery. The Modocs liad been reiinforced by twenty warriors, though Captain Jack still professed peace principles. S?onchin was openly hostile, and professed great anger at the pro- JACK DEFIANT. 615 posal to surrender, rejecting emphatically all offers of j)eace. Even Steele, whose confidence in the Modocs was so great, was alarmed. That night he slept in the bed of Scarface, who sat beside him until morning to protect him from the bloodthirstiness of others. In the morning Jack wore instead of his own a woman's hat, and Sconchin, as on the previous even- inu^, made a war speech, violent in tone and manner. When ho had finished, Jack threw off his woman's hat and hypocrisy together, and made a very determined war speech, declaring that he would never go upon a nservation to be starved. When told bv Steele of tlio power of the American people, and the futility of resistance, he listened with composure, and then re- plied, "Kill with bullets don't hurt much ; starve to death hurt a heap 1 " He referred also to the punishment inflicted on his people when he was a boy by the Yroka volun- teers under Ben Wright, and having made as strong a case as he could to justify his actions plaiidy defied tlio i)(>wcr of the United States. As much in sym- jiatliy with them as was Steele, he was glad to be permitted to return to Fairchild's on the morning of tlio 4th of March. No full report of this interview was ever made public. It was understood that the peace commissioners offered anmesty to all the Modocs who surrendered as prisoners of war, to remove them to Auixel Island in San Francisco bay, and feed and shelter them until a reservation could bo found for tlieni in a warmer climate, presumal)ly in Arizona. They were to be comfortably clothed and shtltercd wliere they were until conveyed to Angel Island, and Canl)y ofl'ered to secure permission for Captain Jack to visit the president of the United States in com- pany with some of his head men. Tliese offers were, to the comprehension of Jack, but signs of weakness. Why should Canby and the coinnnssiniiors extend forgiveness to an enemy if they could kill him? Such an offer could only proceed S16 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. from a conviction that the Modocs in their caves were invincible ; or otherwise the proposition must be a trick to get them out of their stronghold. Jack made a counter proposition, to be forgiven and loft in the lava beds. He had only twenty-three warriors, he said, forgetting that on the previous evening Steele had seen sixty-nine at the council. He wanted Meacham and Applegate. with six men, unarmed, to come on the following day and shake hands with him in conclusion of a peace. On returning from this interview Steele advised the commissioners to cease all negotiations until the Indians should themselves solicit terms; that the Modocs thought the white men were afraid of them, and carried on negotiations solely in the hope of get- ting Canby and Gillem, Meacham and Ap|)legate in their power, in which event they could certainly kill them. As for himself he would not take the risk again of going to the Modocs. The second report of Steele produced a decided change in the prospects of the commission, and Mea- cham at once telegraphed Delano that the Modocs rejected all offers, and that their proposal to meet in full force two of the commissioners and six men, un- armed, in the lava beds signified treachery i that tlic commissioners were still willing to meet the Modocs, but not on their terms; that the Indians had lieen reiinforced from some source ; that protection liad been offered to all who would come out of the lava beds; but that the conmiicsion was a failure and lie waited for instructions. To this candid statement Delano telegraphed that he did not believe the Modocs meant treachery; that the mission should not be a failure ; that he belicvid he understood the unwillingness of the Modocs to confide in him, and that negotiations should be con- tinued. How the honorable secretary came to know so nmch my authorities do not say. Canby tele- graphed to Sherman on the 5th that the reports fruia ALLEGED WRONGS. 517 the Modocs indicated treachery and a renewal of hostilities. In reply Sherman said on the Oth that the authorities at Washington confided in him but not in the commissioners, and placed the matter in his hands. o While the negotiations with Jack had been in progress the commissioners were engaged in examin- ing;, according to the instructions of the Secretary of tlie Interior into the cause of the war. On the 22d f February their first report was formulated, in wliicli was recited all the alleged wrongs of the Modocs, as alread}^ known to the reader of my general liistory, dissatisfaction with the Klamath reservation as a place of residence, owing mainly to the domina- tion of the Klamaths and ill treatment by the agents. With reference to these charges, the commissioners n marked that concerning the latter complaint it was well founded; they were satisfied the fault lay in the treaty, and not in the conduct the agents and em- ployes of the reservation. If food and clothing had IxH'U insufficient they had nevertheless been impar- tially distributed. No indulgences had been granted to one tribe or band not extended to all; and wliile the Klamaths, Snakes, and Sconchin's band of Modocs were contented. Jack and his followers alone found cause to justify a refusal to perform their treaty stipulations. Out of this refusal had grown the causes which led to the war ; the assertion by the Modocs of a right to a country which they had conveyed b}- treaty to the I'nited States, and which was subsequently settled upon in good faith by citizens of Oregim; their per- sistence in rf)amhig over, and refusal to abate their pretensions to, this country, treating the settlers as tlieir tenants, and committing acts which must inevita- lily lead to collision between the races. Then followed the attempt to compel them to go where they belonged — an attempt ordered by the Indian department at 518 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. Waslilngton — and their resistance. These were the causes which led to the war, as found by the commis- sioners. Their instructions also required them to devise the most judicious and effective measures for preventing the continuance of hostilities, and for the restoration of peace. The findings upon this question were rather ne::^ative than positive. The commission decided that in any settlement of the existing hostilities it would be inadmissible to return them to the Klamath reser- vation, or to set apart a reservation for them on Lost river, or anywhere in the vicinity. They objected, also, to a poace on the basis of a general amnesty, which would bring the federal and state governments in conflict, and furnish a precedent calculated to cause misconduct on reservations, besides greatly offending the friends and neighbors of the slain settlers. It was their opinion that the eight warriors indicted in Jackson county should be surrendered to the state autliorities if demanded, though the government should assign them counsel for defence, and secure them an impartial trial, protecting thtra from lawless vi(jlence. Should the terms which the commission would submit to the Modocs be accepted, namely, a general amnesty, with the exception of the eight war- riors, and removal to a new reservation far away, they should be taken away at once to some fort, other than Fort Klamath, where they could be protected and kept under surveillance until their final destinati(»u was decided upon. The reasons assigned for these conclusions were that although before the 29th of November it might have been practicable to have assigned the !Modocs a reservation on Lost river, the events of that day ren- dered such a proposition absurd, even had not the previous misconduct of the Indians made it impolitic'. There could be no real peace with the Modocs in that vicinity. On the Klama li reservation there could ho scarcely less cause of conflict, since the Klamaths luul DIVERS OPINIONS. 519 taljen part in the war against the Modocs. The Klaaiaths themselves would object to having the res- ervation made a penal colony for thieves, with whom they were expected to live on terms of equality. The objections to a general amnesty were founded upon the history of the Modoc rebellion from first to last, culminating in resistance to United States authority, and the slaughter of settlers. To the report of the conmiissioners Canby gave his approval, with the ex- ception that he held the opinion that the Indians by surrendering as prisoners of war would be exempt fiuni process and trial in either Oregon or California. From this opinion Iloseborough dissented, but thought neither state would attempt to punish the warriors if satisfied they would be removed to some distant coun- try beyond the possibility of a return. This was so far as the people of California were concerned, who seemed to have more sympathy for the Modocs than for the suffering settlers. But the people of south- ern Oregon were extremely sensitive on the subje( t < f a general anmesty, and expressed themselves in a manner that was construed by the Modoc apologists to mean general bloodthirstiness on their side. It is not unlikely that representations to that effect found t!ieir way to Washington through other avenues than tlie California newspapers, and that the secretary of tiie interior feared the effect of such utterances upon the members of the commission ; hence the authority givon to Canby to select two other commissioners to fill the i)laces of Applegate and Case, resigned. That Ai)plogate would have resigned had not his relatives been impugned by the allegations of Captain Jack, into which mquiry was ordered to be made, is rendered j)robable by his separate report made on the 'Jth of March. " The commission appointed to examine into the causes and bring to a conclusion the Modoc war, liaving concluded its labors," writes Jesse Applegate, " it was atfreed that each member should submit his 620 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. own views and opinions of the subject as a final re- port. In pursuance of which agreement I submit the following opinions: 1st. The causes leading to the war were the dissatisfaction of Captain Jack's band of Modocs with the provisions and execution of the treaty of October 14, 1864, and refusal to abide there- by. To what extent wrongs justified resistance, the commission, having no power judicially to investigate, cannot say. 2d. The immediate cause of hostilities was lesistance by the Indians to military coercion, 3d. Unconditional surrender of the Indians, and the trial and punishment of the guilty by the civil author- ities, would have been more satisfactory to the whites, and a better example to the Indians, than more len- ient conditions. 4th. Terms of surrender were offered the Indians to save the further effusion of blood, and secure a permanent peace by the removal of the whole tribe out of the country ; a result scarcely to be hoped for by continued hostilities. 5th. The terms agreed to by the commission were suggested and must be carried into effect by the military. A commission to negotiate a peace was therefore unnecessary. 6th. A commission to inquire into the causes of the war should be composed of men wholly disinterested in the findings of the commission, directly or indirectly, and clothed with full power to investigate. 7tli. Some of the personnel of this connnission being ob- noxious to the Indians, it was a hindrance to negotia- tions. Having no power to administer oaths, or send for persons or papers, and the official acts of the chair- man to be reviewed, its findings nmst have been im- perfect and unsatisfactory in regard to the causes of the war. I therefore consider the commission an ex- {)ensive blunder." Mr Applegate's compensation had leen fixed at ten dollars a day, and expenses; but with that chivalrous independence which ever char- acterized the man though accepting the service lie declined the pay. Prom the 6th of March, it might be said that no pe? hai of tici JACK'S SCHEMING. 821 peace commission existed. Everything was in the hands of General Canby, who was the representative of the military power in Oregon. As if Jack had an- ticipated something of this kind, and feared hostilities would be recommenced before the end for which he was now scheming could be accomplished, on the day following Steele's final visit to the stronghold he sent his sister Mary to Canby, to say that he accepted the terms offered on the 3d of present protection and support and removal to a distant country ; aski.ig that a delegation of his people might be permitted to accompany the government officers in search of a new home while the remainder of the band waited under the protection of the military. He likewise proposed that his surrender should take place on Monday, March 10th. To this proposition Canby assented, informing Mary that Jack, and as many of his band as were able to come, would be expected that evening, or the next morning, and that wagons would be sent to tha edtje of the lake to bring in the others on ^Monday ; also that if Jack did not c(nne tlie matter would be referred to the military. But Jack did not come as expected on Thursday evening. Messengers wore sent, instead, saying that the Modocs were burying their dead, and could not yet leave the lava beds, but would do so soon. When Mary came the second time, she brought the followinsj messatjes from Jack and Sconchin, in refer- ence to the threat of Canby to send the troops unless Jack and the head men came at once. Sconchin said, "I have heard the talk tliey have sent. I don't want to fight any more. I don't want to shoot any more soldiers, and I don't want anv soldiers to shoot my people. I have but a few men, and I don't want to fight with more men than I have got. I didn't think the peace connnission would get mad so quickly, or the soldiers. The talk looks as if tliey were mad. I want to live in peace. I don't want to go anywhere to fight. I want to live in my own house, and I want 522 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. to live in pea«e. I want to know what officer got mad so quickly. There are only two head men of us, and we didn't get mad ; we wanted to live in peace. Do they want to come and shoot us again ? I don't want to slioot anyone, and I don't want anyone to shoot my men. I have thrown away my country, and now I want to go away and hunt another. I thougl t they were to come and take me away at once. I wanted time to take my people, some ot' them are sick, wouldn't be able to go away at once ; and I don't want them to go to killing them again. I have got all my people to say yes, that they are willing to go, and not talk bad any more. I don't want this country any more — I want a warmer country. I explained this to my children, and they all say yes and sanction it. I want to remain a little while. Some of my pe<jple are sick and can't go, and then the military can go with them." Jack said: "I am very sad. I want peace quick, or else let the soldiers come and make haste and fight. I want to stay here a little while, so that my people can get ready to go. I say yes to going to a wainicr country; and this is tlio first time I have said yes. I don't want my people shot. I don't want my men to go with guns any more. I have quit forever. I have buried the past, and don't want to be made answera- ble for the past. I have heard that they wanted to shoot me. That would be like shooting an old woman. I want to talk good words onl}-. I don't want to shoot or be shot. I don't want anyone to get mad as quick as they did before. I want to live in peace. I want to go and see my people on the reservation. My mind is made up to say yes. I have a good heart, and want no mistake made this time, to live with go»)d heart and talk truth. I have no paper men, and can't write on the papers. The papers called me batl, and lied about me. If they don't lie to me I won't lie to them. I want to give up shooting. I never have born out snice I came on here. If they had come I would REMARKS OF CAI'TAIN JACK. 88S liave sliot them. I never have seon any white men except tliose who came here. I want Fairchikl and Kiddle, and anyone else willing to come out. I want to see my people at Yainax. I have thrown away niy country, and unless I go I never exi)ect to see my people again ; and then I want to go to town, and then I will go away and never expect to return. I want to see what they have to say My nnnd is made up, and I have little else to say. They have got my heart now, and they nmst look after it and do right. I am nearly well and have a gt)od heart now. I ex- l)ect Mr. Meacham is very sick and couldn't come. I am nearlv well, but am afraid o'l account t)f the sol- diers on the road. There are so many soldiers around. There are sokhers on Lost river, on Clear lake, and l^ernard's soldiers. Wouldn't they be afraid if they were in the same situation ? I want to ,' ee their head men who never have been here. I have heard of so many soldiers connng I was afraiil. When they visited me they laid down and slept and were not pestere<l. I had a bad heart yesterday morning when ^Ir Steele lift here, to thiidc that he would not come bade or believe me. If I knew the new country I would go out when he came in. I want to visit my peo[»le, then the new country, and want the peace connnis- sion to go with me and show it to me. ]. wish to live like the white men. Let everything ba wii)ed out, washed out, and let there be no nj'.rj blood. I have got a bad heart about these warriors. I Iiave got but a few men, and don't see how I can give them up. Will they give up their peo])le who nmrdercd my people while they were asleep? I niiver asked for the })eo[)le who murdered my people. I only talked that way. I can see how I could give u[) my horse to be hanged, but I cannot see how I could give up my men to be hanged. I could give up my horse to be hanged and wouldn't cry a' out it ; but if I gave up my men I would have to cry about it. I want them all to have good hearts now. I 524 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. have thrown away everything. There must be no more bad talk. I will not. I have spoken forever. I want soldiers all to go home. I have given up now, and want no more fuss. I have said yes, and thrown away my country. I want soldiers to go away, so I will not be afraid. When I go to Yainax I don't want to come back here, but want to go to town, and then to the new country. I wanted to go to a new country and not come back any more to see my people; that is why I wanted to go to Yainax. I want to see how many of my relations would go with me. I feel bad for my people in the lava beds. I would cry if I did not see my people at Yainax. I don't know the new country, and they wouldn't know where they were. I know no country but Shasta and Pitt river. But I say yes, and consent to everything and go away. I don't want to live here any more, because I can't live here any more in peace. I wish to go to the southern country and live in peace. I want my people to stay here till I and some of niy head men go and look at the new coun- try'. I want Riddle and sojne others to go with me. I want clothing and food for my men. I want it given t.> them here, am deceivin<' them. I don't want them to think I I want my people to be taken care of while I am looking for the new country, want to know where they can stay and eat wlien I am gone. I want to stop with Fairchild. I want to know if they got mad at me so quick because I could not believe them at once. I could not come; I had but two horses, and the Klamaths took my good one. I have no saddle, and my horses have been ridden so much they are not fit to ride. I am a chief; am proud ; am ashamed to ride a poor horse. I under- stand their tall. now. It seems now that I have been with them, and talk;, 1 with them and seen them. I talk with my mouth. They have paper men to write down what I say. I want Fairchild to come to- morrow to see me. Mary has brought back good PEACE PREFERRED. fi25 news. I want to see them as bad as they want to s«>e nic. I don't want Fairchild to be afraid to come nut with Mary. I want and hope Mary will come back with message and say yes, just as I have done." Toby Riddle, who interprcitcd the messages sent by Jack and Sconchin, and who saw through their sinis- ter meaning warned Can by of treachery. And read now, in the liglit of subsequent events, their inten- tion is plain. Stripped of iteration and verbiage, the messages, while pretending to be for peace, were cun- ningly arranged to hide a deep-laid scheme. Scon- cliin affected surprise that the commissioners were so soon offended by the faithlessness of the Modoc lead- ers, and inquired the name of the officer who was so impatient. Jack wanted peace or war at once, but preferred peace. He promised not to lie to the com- missioners if the white men who were sent to him would tell the truth, he of course to be the judge, lie was tired of being confined to the lava beds by soldiers on every side of him, and wanted liberty to go to Yainax and to Yreka; after which he would consent to look up a new country for his people, but wished the principal military officers and the peace commissioners to accompany him, while all his people but those he should select to accompany him should be allowed to remain in the lava beds, having first re- ceived food and clothing to make them comfortable (luring his absence. He did not like the demand that he was told had been made for the surrender of tl.o murderers, saying that he had never made any su<h demand of the white men for killing his people; and proved his magnanimity by the fact that Steele and the intrepreter had slept unharmed in his camp. He was surprised and angry that Steele had not trusted him enough to return again, and wanted Fair- cliild to come and see him. Though there were pro- fuse professions of a desire for peace, there was little in Jack's me3sage to indicate an}^ degree of humility. On tlie contrary, the terms, if complied with, would SOME INDIAN EPISODfiS. leave him master of the situation — the sohlicrs with- drawn, his people clothod and fed, and allowed to remain on Lost river, while lie went forth free. In spite of these signifirant demands of tin* ^fodoc leaders, Canhy, who had been forced into a position where he felt that he must vindicate the j)ower and the ri}^hteou8ncs8 of the government, as well as his own ability as a representative of both, proceeded with the preparations for receiving the Alodocs on the 10th. Tents were put up to shelter them, with hay for beds, new blankets, and plenty of food and firewood, besides many articles of convenience and even of luxury for the leaders. Four wagons, under the char<je of Steele and a te^amster named David Horn were dispatched to the place agreed upon, at Point of Rocks on lower Klamath lake, where they expected to find Jack and his party. After waiting for several hours and no Modocs appearing, Steele returned to Fairchild's and reported the failure of the expedition. After this breach of faith, Meacham telegraphed the connnissioner of Indian aft'airs at Waslihiinton that every honorable means to secure peace had be( n exhausted; that the Modocs broke every promise, and offered terms that were entirely inadmissil)l(!; that messengers were unwilling to return to their camp; and intimated that he C(m8idered the mission of peace as closed, but awaited orders. He received from the Secretary of the Interior an order to submit his telegrams thereafter to General Canby for approval, and in all proceedhigs to be governed by his advice until further directed by the department. In the meantime Canby had telegraphed that although the Modocs had failed to keep their apjioint- ment, and some movement of the troops might hv necessar}% simply to keep them under close observa- tion ; he did not regard this last action as decisive, and should spare no efforts to bring about the result desired. With this the secretary was better pleased, FEARS OP THE FARMERS. 827 id nnrl in a note to the Secretary of War commented on it warmly in contrast with tlie expressions of the chair- mau of the peace commission. Sherman, liowever, was not HO san«j;uine. lie rei)Hed to Canhv's tcleirram tluit it was manifestly (losircd hy all in authority that the peace measures should surcoed and counselled patience. "But shouM these peaceful measures fail, and shcmld the Modocs presume too far <»n the for- bearance of th(! ijovernment and a<jain res(»i't to de- ceit and treachery, I trust you will make such use; of the military force that no other Indian trihe will imitate their example, and that no reservation for them will be necessary except graves among their chosen lava Vxds " At this tlm(.^ Meacham would willingly liave seen the peace commission dissolved, and more than once liad signified his readiness to make his final report at Washington. The peace commission was extremely unpopular in his own state, and was likely to ruin liis cliances for any future i)olitieal prefernu'ut. Subser- vient as it had been from the first to the advice of the military, by order of the government it occupied a position antagonistic to i)eace, os it did, by tlie terms offcired by the military, to the authorities of Or(>gon and the sense of the people. All the other connnls- sioners had resigned and gone honu;. The delavs caused by the connnission m the operations of tlie military forces were liki'ly to defeat the object for which tliey were assembled, as with the approach of spring the Modocs would escape into the mountains, where no number of troops could hope to cajiture them, and whence they could descend i»i small parties to steal and nmrder at will. The stock-raisers in tlic vicinity of the lava beds complained that their cattle and sheep were lassoed not only by the Indians, who killed all they needed, but by the army teamsters and soldiers also, who took fresh meat when they desired, thinking they might as well have it as the Indians. The time was at hand for putting in crops, but no SOME INDIAN EPISODES. t fanner in that rej^ion would venture to do any thing on liis land until the Modoc difticulty should be set- tled. Fears were entertained that the Piutes, Pitt Rivers, and Snakes, aggregating two or three thou- sand warriors, would be induced by Jack's success in resisthig the United States authorities to commence hostilities, and combine with him in a war Avhich might become general. Already that portion of tlie Nez Perces who had always been disaffected toward the treaty of 1855 were making trouble in the Wal- lowwa valley, on the eastern border of the state. No formal treaty had ever been made between the gov- ernment and the Indians subdued by General Crook's operations a few years previous, who now openly re- joiced over the rumors that Captain Jack still defied the power of the soldiers who had conquered them, and the inhabitants were already calling for protection by petitions to the governor. That this threatening attitude of the Indians was directly due to the influ- ence of the peace connnission all were aware; and hence arose the opposition of those not inunediately interested in having the Modocs punished for crimes committed by them. Of the importance of these matters to his state Meacham was fully cognizant; and having become convinced that no satisfactory terms could be made with the Modocs, he was quite willing the whole problem should be left with tlie military for solution. Bat he was not permitted to dispose of the enterprise into which he had brought himself and others in that way. Instead of that, Odeneal, who declined, and then Dyar, was appointc d on the commission in the pla'-e made vacant by tlio resignation of Case, and Jesse Applegate's place was filled by E. Thomas, a method ist clergyman of Peta- luma, he being the choice of Canby. Thus the com- mission was reorganized. The day after Jack's failure to keep his word with the commissioners, a reconnoissance of the lava beds SCONCHIN'S RELUCTANCE. was ordered by a cavalry company under Colonel Biddle, but nothing was seen of the Modocs. Ac- cording to a previously expressed desire of Jack's, a messenger was sent to Yainax to invite Chief Sconchin and sub-chief Charley Riddle to visit him, an invita- tion seconded by the commissioners. After several days of deliberation, Sconchin reluctantly consented, fooling convinced beforehand how useless would be his intervention. At starting he said, "Let me once look into their eyes, and I will know what to report." Thereupon he went, and looked into the eyes of Jack and his brother, and returning assured the commis- sioners to hope for nothing, that all future negotia- tions would be unavailing. There could be but one reason why the outlaws wished to see him, which would be an appeal to him for that assistance which iiad already often been refused to the messengers sent to Yainax. That communication was kept up between tlie loyal and the rebel Modocs there was plenty of evidence; indeed, the messenger sent to bring in Sconchin found Long Jim, one of the warriors under indictment, at Yainax. On the 1 3th Biddle, while reconnoitering in the vi- cinity of the lava beds, captured thirty-four horses, and n)i<;lit have killed a number of savayjos had not his orders forbidden it. The capture of the horses, though an act of hostility not entirely consonant with pt'uce measures, was thought necessary to lessen the chances of escape from the lava beds before a surren- der could be effected. In the meantime negotiations had been carried on by means of the Indian women living about the settlements, one of whom after visit- ing the stronghold brought word that Jack wished for a conference, but was afraid to couie out of the lava hods lest Canby should ni»t be able to control his sol- diers, in proof of which he mentioned the taking of his horses. Being afraid to come out, he wished Fairchild and Meacham to come to him in his strong- hold. Cal Int. Poc. 84 Ill 530 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. About the middle of March, Canby and the peace commission removed headquarters to Van Brimmer's, and the troops now numbering between 500 and 600, were drawn closer to the lava beds. No material change took place in the attitude of affairs for ten or twelve days. The material of war was slowly brought nearer to Jack's stronghold to convince him of the futility of all attempts at escape. If Jack was waiting to gain time, when the snow be- ing off the mountains the Snakes could come to his assistance, he was in apparent danger of being frus- trated, though that he occasionally gained some re- cruits from renegades of other bands was credited. On the 1 9th Meacham wrote to the commissioner of Indian affairs at Washingttjn, that he had not en- tirely abandoned hopes of success; even that he was satisfied, had no outside treachery intervened, pea( o would have been accomplished before this. The Mo- docs, he said, had been informed that the authorities of Oresron demanded the warriors indicted : also that Jack would surrender them, but dared not. In tlils letter he advocated a meeting on Jack's terms ; and said if left to him he should have visited Jack in IJio lava beds ; and that he was ready to do so at that time, but was restrained by Canby. It did not appear, however, that anything had oc- curred that should have changed his mind since he had written that the Modocs meant treachery. That he did not at this time enjoy the confiilenoe of t]\o departments is placed beyond doubt by a telegram from Sherman to Canby, authorizing him to remox i' from the commission any member he thought unfit, and devolving upon him the entire management of the Modoc question. Canby did not think it necessary to remove Meacham, the only member of the connnission then on the ground, particularly as he was clothed with supreme power. But even Canby could not make .ill his reports agree, for on one day he thought that t\\o FURTHER PROTESTATIONS. m Modocs would readily consent to go to Yainax, should tliat be thought best, and the next was obliged to re- }H)rt that they were not in a disposition favorable to any arrangement; they had sent one of their women in- to camp to say that at the last moment their hearts failed them, and they could not make up their minds to go to a new country. Time, the general said, was becoming of great importance, as the melting of the s low would soon enable the Indians to live in the mountains, but he hoped by a system of gradual com- pression, and an exhibition of the force to be used ii'j;ainst them, to satisfy them of the hopelessness ot further resistance, and give the peace party sufficient .strength to control the band. On the 22d generals Canby and Gillem made a reconnoissance with a cavalry company, during which an accidental mooting was liad with Captain Jack and a party of his warriors. A conference between the generals and Jack and Sconchin was arranged; but instead of Sconchin, Jack brouijht Scarface, the acknowledi;ed war chief. Not).- iiig could be elicited from Jack but protestations that lie did not want to fight, nor to be shut up in the lava beds, but would go back to Lost river. The gradual compression went on; headquarters were once more removed to the foot of the high bluff, witliin throe miles of the stronghold ; while three other camps woie established within distances varying from four to tliirtoen miles. At length on the 24th the new commissioners, Tlionias and Dyar, arrived at headquarters; and also Cajitaln (). C. Applogato, with five reservation Mo- does who had been sent for by General Caid)v to as- sist if possible in the peace negotiati(ms. On tlie 'JHth Oenoral Gillem and Commissioner Thomas had an interview with Bojjjus Charley who had bi'on itassinir frcelv between the stronghold and the camn of tie connnissionors for several weeks. In this interview it was once niore agreed that the Modocs sjiould come out the following day ; but according to their usual I U i\ k 532 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. tactics a delegation consisting of Bogus Cliarkv, ^laiy, another Indian woman named Ellen, and Bos- ton Charley, was sent in their place with a message to the commissioners and Canby of a private nature. The impression given out at the several interviews held up to this time was that there were two pai-tics among the Modocs, a war party and a peace party, and that Jack was of the peace party, while Sconchin, his rival, was striving for the chi^'ftainship by at- tempting to lead the majority or war party. That this was simply a device to deceive the connnissioners as to their real strength and purpose was afterward made apparent ; but at the time it succeeded, as the telegrams of Canby show. After the meeting of the 'J 2nd he said; "The result confirmed the impression l)reviously reported, that the war faction is still pro- dominant. Captain Jack's demeanor was that of a man under duress, and afraid to exhibit his real feil- iiigs. Important questions were evaded or not an- swered at all." "^his created a feeling of compassion toward Jack in the mind of the general who was conducting the negotiations, and led him to believe more in the final success of the peace commission, ^leacham, feeling compelled to follow the lead given, as ordered by Delano, after the late unsatisfactory meetings, again wrote to the commissioner of Indian artulis that the principal impediment to the surrender of the Indians was the fear that the offending wamors would be punished, and that this fear was willfully increased by bad white men, who desired to have the war prolonged from mercenary motives. This accusation, which gained most credence at the greatest distance from the seat of war, was easy of refutation, since the only men having the opportunity at first to connnunicate with the Indians were those sent by the connnissioners, and another class who lived upon terms of equality with !Modoc women, and who could have little of anything to gain by the con- tinuance of hostilities, b it whose profits had formerly CAUSE OF FEAR. 6o3 floponded greatly upon the trade of the very Indians now rendered unable to carry on commerce by reason of the war. It was m the power of the military at any time to have prevented the communication exist- ing between these women, who picked up all sorts of stories in their intercourse with low white men and the Indians in the lava beds, had they chosen, simply by sending them to their people with orders to remain there until Jack surrendered. That this was not done was a miUtary blunder. On the other hand, the peace oounnission, which was military in its feelings, being desirous of establishing the character of the govern- ment for magnaminity, encouraged the Modocs while still avoiding hostility to send small parties almost <laily to headquarters, where they could observe all that was going on, and where they were sure to hear from those who were most likel}' to seek their society auvthinij and evervthing. These blunders were the direct cause of the fear which, if any, possessed tlie Indians, which fear was therefore chargeable to those conducting tlie peace commission, and not to any other persons. Above all, the authorities at Wash- ington, who had sot their hearts upon the success of a doubtful experiment, by insisting upon pacific meas- ures when these measures had been persistently re- jected by armed savages, possessed of considerable kniAvledgc of the government, were responsible for the present condition of aftairs. So far was this infatuatiisu rnrrird, that on receiv- ing Canby's telegram saying that Jack still wished to return to Lost river, Delano instructed the general not to require that any of the propositions heretofore made should be accepted, but if the Modocs insisted on not going elsewhere, to allow them a reservation on Lost river; and if they were opposed to the surrender of the offending warriors, not to insist upon that, but to include them also in the amnesty. From the 26th to the 1st of April nothing occurred i.iii 634 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. of importance at headquarters, though news was brought from Langell valley that Hooker Jim and a party of Modocs had shown themselves near Alkali lake and driven ofF a large band of horses; also that on the night of the 24th they were at Yainax where they talked until moniing, trying to persuade the res- ervation Modocs and Klamaths to join Jack, telling them that five tribes had promised to take the war path with him as soon as he left the lava beds, and that unless they united with the war confederacy they would not be safe. They sent their women to a man named Jordan, who lived with an Indian woman, to buy powder, but failed to obtain any. This move- ment of the Modocs greatly alarmed both the white men and Indians in Sprague River valley ; and as the conduct of the Snakes in Goose Lake valley was alarming, a petition was presented to the governor of Oregon for protection. The raid of the Modocs into Langell valle}", and their threats to the reservation Indians, somewhat alarmed the families at the Klamath agency, who were almost entirely unprotected, Dyar being absent on the business of the peace commission, and the other white men assisting the Indians with their farms on diflferent parts of the reservation. Knowing that the Modocs might in one night make a descent on the agency, Captain Pollock, in command at the fort, ad- vised the temporary removal of the families to the post, and made a requisition on General Gillem for a few men to guard the government property on the reservation, which requisition was not honored on ac- count of the need of all the troops about the lava beds. The messenger who carried the despatch at his own instance circulated the rumor in Linkviile that the Klamaths had joined the Modocs, the families at the agency had taken refuge at the fort, and the country was in a state of alarm. Happily Captain Applegato chanced to be at Linkviile, on his return from tlie headquarters of the peace commission with his Modoc MOVEMENTS OF THE TROOPS. delegation from Yainax, and was able to quiet the apprehensions occasioned by this unauthorized allega- tion against the Klaniaths. The people on tlie reser- vation were at no time afraid of the Klamaths, although tliey were just then under apprehensions in regard to tlio hostile Modocs. The Indians on the reservation vere fearful of an attack. "Jack had long before the war told old Sconchinand other Yainax Indians," says Applegate, "tliat in case of a war with the whites he would destroy Yainax, and kill the Indians tliere if they did not join him. Old Sconchin told me this oaily in the war, and said if Jack's band came to Yainax on a raid, his men would die fighting ft)r the place and their white friends. The Modocs did scout in the vicinity of Yainax, and it is altogether probable tliat had we not been constantly on the alert a descent would have been made on us during the first months of the war." On the Slst of March a movement by the troops in f )rcc was made, three hundred marching to the upper end of Lower Klamath lake, and thence on the 1st of April to Tule lake and the lava beds. On the 2d the Modocs siijnified their willingness to confer with the coinnnssioners at a point midway between headquar- ters and the stronghold. Jack reiterated his terms, to be allowed to have Lost river, with a general am- nesty, and to have the troops all taken away. The most that was accomplished was to obtain consent to erect a council tent, the weather being stormy and coltl, at a place on the lava beds about a mile and a quarter from tlie camp of the connnissioners, where future nesiotiations could be carried on. On tlie 4th a request was made by Jack that Meacham, Rosebo- rougji and Fairchild should meet him with a few of his men at the council tent. They went, accompanied by Riddle and his wife Toby as interpreters. Jack was accompanied by six warriors and the women of his own family. Colonel Mason had been ordered to move his com- I "I- I'l SOME INDIAN EPISODES. li pany to camp two miles from the stronghold on the east side, and the movement seemed to have had some effect in bringing^ about the interview. The council was opened by Roseborough, who explained to the Indians their position. Jack and Sconchin both re- plied that they wanted the Lost river country, and reiterated their former demands. Roseborough replied that it was useless talking about Lost river, because they had sold it, and could not have it back; that blood had been spilled tliere, and the Modocs would not be able to live there in peace. Jack replied that his young men had done wrong in spilling the blood of innocent men, but declared that had no set- tler been in the fight of the 29th of November, none would have been killed. He then recited his grievances while on the reserva- tion. But when shown by the commissioners that ho could not have his demand for the Lost river country complied with, or if complied with that he could not enjoy peace there after what had happened, he said that if he could not have that he would say no more about it, but would accept a small reservation in Cali- fornia, including Willow, Cottonwood, and Hot creeks, with the lava beds. This, too, was refused as imprac- ticable. When Meacham addressed the Indians, they lis- tened with indifference. Tne council lasted for five hours, when it was sn.ddenly terminated by the Ind- ians, who retired, saying if they changed their mind in the matter, they would report next day. On the following morning Boston Charley came to the commissioners' camp and wished to see Rosebo- rough, to whom he said that Jack desired another in- terview, when Roseborough replied that he did not wish to talk any more with Jack until he had ma«lo up his mind what he would do. Boston then remarkeil that the Indians might all come in the next day, which led Roseborough to think they really contem- plated surrender. A message was immediately sent SUSPICIONS AROUSED. m by Toby Riddle conveying a proposition to Jack to surrender with any others who might elect to do so. The proposition was not only declined, but in such a manner that on her return Toby assured the commis- sioners and Canby that it would be no longer safe for tlieni to meet the Modocs in council. Tht; informa- tion was lightly treated by the generals, and by Thomas — the former feeling behind them the power of the federal government, the latter trusting in the power of the almighty — but was regarded as of more con- sequence by Meacham and Dyar, who better under- stood the characters of the informer and of the Indians informed against. Through the indiscretion of Thomas, the Modocs were made aware that their contemplated plan of assassination was understood, a knowledge which undoubtedly hastened its consummation. On the morning of the 8th Jack sent a messenger to the commissioners, requesting a conference at the council-tent, and a proposition to meet them with only six unarmed men. But the signal officer at the station overlooking the lava beds reporting six Indians at the council-tent and twenty more in the rocks be- hind them, all armed, the invitation was not accepted, and no meeting was had. Jack understood from this rejection of his overtures that he was suspected, and tliat whatever he did must be done quickly. He had jj^ained by his baffling course the time needed, so that should he be compelled to leave the lava beds he could escape, and join or be joined by the Snakes on tlie east. This he intended to do, first destroying the army generals and the peace commission, by wliich he expected to throw the troops into temporary confusion, and during the confusion to carry out his plans. Therefore on the morning of the 10th a delegation from Jack's camp consisting of Boston Charley, Hooker Jim, William, or Whim as he was called, and Tfiive visited the commissioners at headquarters about three miles from the stronghold, and brought a propo- 638 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. a sition from Jack that generals Canby and Gilleni, with the peace comuiissioners, should meet the Mo- docs in conference. The interpreters were sunt out to learn Jack's wishes, and also to convey to him protest from the commissioners, whioli was in writinjj;, and which Riddle read to Jack, containing the terms before offered — a general amnesty and a new reserva- tion in a warmer climate. It was evident to Riddle, from the manner of the Modocs, that they were not acting in good faith. Jack threw the paper sent him upon the ground, saying he had no use for it; he was not a white man, and could not read. He also insisted upon the com- missioners coming a mile beyond the council-tent, saying he would go no farther to meet them. Light remarks concerning the conmiissioners were made in the hearing of Riddle by others of the Modocs. They had also been killing and were drying heef, and had thrown up breastworks of stcme to strengthen certain points ; all of which were to the interpreters hidications that they were preparing for war rather than for peace. After a good deal of negotiating, Riddle advising against any meeting, it was finally agreed — Thomas being chairman in the temporary absence of Meacham — that the conference should be held between Canby and the commissioners on one side, and Jack with five men on the other, all to go unarmed, and to meet at the place selected by Jack, an extensive basin sur- rounded by rocks, at eleven o'clock on the forenoon of the 11th. After this decision Riddle called on Canby and advised him to send twenty-five or tliirty men to secrete themselves in the rocks near tlie council ground, as a safeguard against any treacher- ous movement on the part of the Modocs. To this proposal the general replied that it would be an insult to Captain Jack to which he could not consent; and that besides, the discovery of such a movement by the Modocs would probably lead to hostilities, and be CANDY'S CONFIDENCE. 8S9 unwise. But aside from this it was a silly sujjfsjfos- tion. If Jack's men were hidden behind the 1(m ks the soldiers of course would have been discovend; if they were not there the ])resonce of tiie soldiers waH unnecessary. Again, l^oston Charity came into Gillem's ramp on the evtnin*^ of tlie lOtli, and remained there until the connnissioners left to iro to tlie council tent next morning, seeing and reporting evcrvthiiii;. When Meacham heard of the arrangement, he re- monstrated against going into the hole in the rocks Jack had designated, and indeed against any meeting at all ; but he finally yielded to the wishes of Canby and Thomas, when Jack consented to change tlie })lace of meeting to the council-tent, which he did on the morning of the 11th. Everything being now arranged so far as it could bo f)r what all wished might be a conclusive confer- ence, Riddle once more warned the commissioners tliat in his belief the Modocs meant to kill them at this meeting, and Toby said the same. But Caidjy was confident that they dare not attack him with Mason's force where it could be put into the strong- hold before the Indians could reach it; that the road to the council-tent had been watched from the signal station all the morning, and that only the number of I'ldians agreed upon were on the ground, and they apparently unarmed. With simple and refreshing faith Thomas said, "There is no danger; let us put our trust in God ; surely he will not let harm come to mon engaged in so good a work." "Trust God, if you want to," growled Riddle, " but I tell you don't trust them Indians." Indeed, so earnest was Riddle that it should be well under- stood that it was all against his judgment, that he requested Canby and all the commissioners to accom- pany him to the tent of Gillem, who was ill, that he inicrht make a formal protest in the presence of that officer, plainly stating that he consented to make one HJ„|1, :i:,ii-; S40 SOME INDIAN EPISODES, <»f the party rather than lay hhnself open to the charge of cowardice, and the declaration was there made. Then Riddle proposed that if the meeting; must take place, the party should carry concealed arnjs. To this Canby and Thomas objected, ileter- niined on keeping faith with the Indians, though so strongly assured of their treacherous intent. Neither Meacham nor Dyar entertained the same scruples regarding the savages, nor the same trust in the jus- tice of heaven and the protecting arm of providence ; though opposed to the meeting, like Riddle they would go rather than be called cowards, or charged with deserting Canby and Thomas. Accordingly Meacham and Dyar concealed each a small pistol upon his person to be used in case of emergency. At the time appointed the party set out for the council-tent. There were, besides the connnissioners, Canby, the interpreter Riddle, and Toby. Mea- cham and Dyar took their horses to ride, though the nature of the ground made horseback travel slow. Toby also rode, all the others walked. On arriving at tlie ground, they found Jack awaiting them with the number of followers agreed upon ; but these with the addition of Bogus Charley and Boston Charley, who had spent the night at GUlem's camp and accompa- nied the commissioners to the rendezvous, gave Jack just twice as many as were on the other side, exclu- sive of the two interpreters. Jack was indeed a cunning fellow, and nowhere was his shrewdness ever more craftily displayed than in this instance, where by making two of his confed- erates accompany the intended victims, he could not be accused by them of bringing more than the num- ber agreed upon. The commissioners* party joined the Indians, who were sitting in a semicircular group about a campfirc near the tent. Canby offered them cigars, which they smoked for a little while. The council was then opened by the general, who spoke in a kind and fatli- THE FATAL MEETIN'O. Ml erly way, saying ho had for many years hcen ac- quainted with Indians, and thought he underatood them; tliat he had come to tliis meeting to talk in a friendly manner to them, and conclude upon a peace ; and that whatever he promised them that day, they might be sure they would receive. Meacham followed with allusions to his office as a commissioner sent by the government to make jxjace, and take the Modocs away from a place where blood liad been shed, to a new and happier home, where they would be provided with a comfortable support. Thomas made some similar remarks. Jack then spoke, saying he did not wish to quit the country ho was in ; that it was the only country known to him. }[o had given up Lost river and he wanted Cotton- wood and Willow creeks instead. He wanted the soldiers taken away, and wanted to be left in posses- sion of the lava beds It was soon evident that no- thing would be gained by the conference. Meanwhile the air began to thicken with treacliery. As the savages manifested uneasiness on seeing a white man not of the party approaching the place along the trail, Dyar mounted his horse and riding forth turned back the intruder, that the Indians might not suspect duplicity. When he returned he did not rejoin the circle, but threw himself on the ground at a little distance from it, still holding his horse by the bridle. Mcacham's horse had been standing loose; but as tlie conference drew toward a close, Meacham secured tlie animal, still continuing his part in the discussion, tlie others remaining seated or reclining on the ground. In the midst of Meacham's remarks Sconchin threw ill some disrespectful words in his own tongue which the commissioners did not understand. Hooker Jim tlicn arose, and going to Meacham's horse took the overcoat from the horn of the saddle and put it on. Then with mocking gestures he strutted back and forth saying iu English, "Don't I look like old man Meacham?" ';oii:< 548 SOME TVDIAN EPISODES. ■■ I Every one present understood fully the significance of the affront Treachery was rapidly unfolding into death. None durst show alarm; and though each was anxious to catch the eye of the others, none must indulge in a significant glance, lest it should be made the signal for what all felt was impending. True, no guns were visible, but revolvers could bo plainly seen beneath the raiment of the savages. Calmly the general rose from his seat, again refer- ring to his early acquaintance with different tribes o'' Indians, and pleasantly related that one tribe had elected him chief, and given him a name signifying " Indian's friend ;" and another had made hun cliief, and given the name of the "tall man;" that he had never deceived them, but had always dealt fairly with them ; that he was there that day by order of the president of the United States; that he had no au- thority to remove the troops, who were there by tlio president's order, and also to see that everything was done that was rigl\t, by both Indians and settlers. Sconchin replied with the demand tliat they sliould be given the Willow Creek or Hot Creek countrv, and that the troops should all be taken away. Wliilc his speech was being interpreted, Jack arose and walked around behind Dyar's horse. At the same time two Indians, carrying several guns each, sudden- ly appeared, as if arising out of the gn)und. Jack returned to a position in the circle opposite to Canby, and as Meacham demanded, " Wliat does that moan ? " Jack gave the word in his own lansjcuaijjo, which meant "all ready," and drawing a revolvd* from his bosom fired at Canby who was within a few feet of him. When the Indians carrying guns first came in sight. all but Toby Rid<lle had sprung to tlieir feet. Toby lay flat on the ground. Simultaneously with Jack s attack on Canby, Sconchin fired on Meacham, and Boston Charley on Thomas. At the first motion of Jack to fire, Dyar, who was a CULMINATED SAVAGERY. 643 very tall man, and had an advantage of a few feet in distance, started to run, pursued by Hooker Jim. Findinj^ Viimseif close pressed, when he had gone 150 yards, he turned and fired witli his pistol, which ciipcked the advance of the enerny. By repeating this manoeuvre se/eral times he escaped to the picket line. Kiddle also escaped by runnintj, though ho was pursued by Shacknasty Jim, assisted by Branclio, who with Scarface, Steamboat Frank, and Sloluck, had been r-oncealed in the rocks near the council-tjround. Toby escaped with only a blow given her by one of the Indians who coveted her horse ; Ju ck interfer- ing, she was permitted to follow lier husband. It was but a few moments after Jack had uttered liis ''all ready," when General Canby lay stripped naked upon tlie ground with a bullet hole through his head. A short di.stance from him was Thomas, ill so d(!ad, and nearly naked. Near the clergyman lay Meacham, stripped, and with five bullet wounds — in the ftice, the left hand, the right wrist, the lobe of one ear, and the side of the head, and a knife-cut on tlie other side of the head. With all these injuries, liowever, he was not dead, and revived half an hour later when the troops reached the spot. Can any one tell why, what is so freciuently the case, that the two men who trusted in the Lord perished, while t'.iosc who did not were saved? Some would say tl;:<t tliese chivalrous persims slioiild have exercised better judgment, and not have (U'penuled on God to work a miracle to save men from (h'struction, who, v'hiM; fairlv warned of their danixcr (leliherately walk into it. Even the ph-a ofdutv does not here obtain, for there was no oblii^ation restinji on them to risk their lives; no principle involved in it. no important issue turning upon it. It made no whit difference to any (me whether or not those sav- aj^i's were seen on that particular day, by those par- ticular persons, and in that particular way. The last telt.'grani from Canby on the subject, dated April Jl 544 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. 12tli, contained those words ; "In my judgment per- manent poac y caiHiot be secared if they are allowed to remain in this innnediate neighborhood. The Modo( s are now sensible that they cannot live in peace on Lost river, and have abandoned their claim to it, but wish to be left hi the lava beds. This means license to plunder, and a stronghold to retreat to, and was refused. Their last proposition is to come in and have the opportunity of lookhig for a new home not far away, and, if they are sincere in this, the trouble will soon be ended ; but there has been so much vacilla- tion and duplicity in their talks that I have hesitated about reporting until simie definite result was at- tained. All the movements of the troops have been made deliberately and cautiously, so as to avoid col- lision and to impress the Indians that we have no un- friendly intent ; thus far we have succeeded very W(3ll, but their conduct has given so much reason to appre- hend that they were only trying to gain time, that I have organized a party of scouts to operate with the troops if they should go to the mountains or renew hostilities." Before General Canby had left camp at headquar- ters he requested General Gillem, should anythiuLf ha})pen to confirm him in his suspicions of the treach- erous designs of the !Modt)cs, to send Doctor Cabaniss to notify him. Soon after the commissioners reach<'<l the council-tent, an Indian approached the jdcket-liiu' about Colonel ^Mason's canjp, which was located at Hospital Rock, about two miles east of tlu; stronghold, carrviuij a white flaj;. Lieutenant Sherwooil was sent to meet him. He soon returned and re|H»rtr(l that three !Modocs wished to have a talk with the conuuander of the post. Sherwood was then sent to inform the Indians that if they wished to sec the colonel tlKy niust ct»me inside the picket-lhie. Liiu- tenant Boyle of the same regiment, who happened ti» be present, asked permission to accomi)any Sherwood, and the two officers a«rain went out to meet the lla' INDIAN TREACHERY. 546 r)f truce, which was lialf a mile outside the lino of pickets. Just before tluy came to it tliey wore met hy one of the Indians, wlio gave his name asWooley- liaired Jake, and tlie names of his Ci»m})anions as Comstock Dave, and Steamboat Frank. He then in(juirod if Lieutenant Boyle was the connnanding of- ficer, and on being told that he was not, invited tlie ofHcers to go on to where tlie flag-bearer was in wait- ing. The manner of the Indians seemhig to indicate tivachery, the two officers being unarmed, declined, Imt aLireed to talk with them if tliev W()uld come to tlu! jticki't-post. This the Indians refused, and Sher- wood and Boyle started for their camp, a mile distant. Xo sooner were their backs turned than the Indians began firing, and they began dodging from rock to r(H'k as they ran. Sherwood soon fell mortally wounded; but Boyle escaped, Ix'ing protected by the liio »»f the picket-guard who kept the Indians back. 1'' ' troops soon turned out aiul brought in the svuMi.ded lieutenant, who <liod three davs afterward. This occurred while Canby was smoking and chat- ting with the consi)irators at the council-ground, and was [lart of the plan by which Jack meant to deprive the army at once of its principal officers. Had th.e sclii'iiie succi'edcd as Jack intended, the troops placed hy ( Jilleni near the stronghold for tlu' purpose of bi'- iiij; ready in this or any other emergency, would have hull thrown hito temptmir}' confusion, rendering tht in unable to interfere with the slaughter of the roniinissioners. In Jack's plan there was nothing lacking. Tin- officer at the signal station overlooking !Mason's cani|) telegraphed Gilleni what had occurred, and the {Iiiicral Sent for Cabaniss. A message was written, and the doctor fullv informed of the damper of his mission, which indeed he knew beforehand, anil was willing to encounter for the sake of General r'anby wlidin ho jrreatlv loved. But at the moment the • message was handed to hiui, the signal officer on Cal, Int. I'oc. Hi ■ iil> i I i ll i 540 SO]ME IXDTAX ITISOPES. the west side cried out " Tliey arc firing on the couii- cil-tent!" The men turned out at the first ahiriii, Sergeant Wooten, of K company of cavahy, head- ing a party without orders. Tlie wikh^st confusion prevailed; yet in the soh^ intent if possible to save Canby and the otiiera tliere was a kind of order. CilK'ni ga\e his commands rapidly, and the troops Were only too eager to get at the assassins Coloru 1 ]\riller's battery E, 4th artillery, Major Throcknio'- ton's batteries IM and K, 4th artillery, and con(pa- nies E and (x, I'Jth hifantry, under Colonel Wriglit and Captain Howe, moved forward as rapitlly as they could iTet over the rouu^h ijrou!Kl But before tliev had proeeetled far they met l)\'ar, with the story of the fatal catastrophe. On reaching the council- ground !M(\acham was found to be alive, and was rescued. The Indians retreated to their stronghold, and the troops followed for half a mile, when they wore halted, and at night withdrawn to camp. Ihus ended the peace commission, conceived by placo-huntors, and al'toiward conscientiously ii^fisted upon by well-meaning but uninformed officers of tlic government in opposicion to the opinions and ferliiius of the white people most concerned, and of tlie Indians themselves. Secretary Delano was jiangul in effig}^ at Yn^ka, and imblic meetuiga held to dn lionor to the nuMnory of General Canby in Portland, where nctthhig that had hap[M nod since the assassina- tion of President Lincoln had so afleete-d the whole connmnnty. In justice to Delano it should Ik^ said tbat he lind been subjected to a strong outsi<le pressure finni people with philaMthopic theories and no knowledge of the subject. Letters pourod into the department in behalf o? the ^fodocs fn»m individuals and secic- ties of every quality and quarter. Oil tiie I'.Xli of March a letter was sent to the ])resident by Pron-^'in Murray of New York. re])roaching him for emf»lnv- ing the army against the Modoca. " If true, what S((>ol(> the M whv si go n Ian (five t idorie i there tlit'ir b] ,uivcd {) The ^WO(I(»fg '*L;ain.st flvrly ,! Many I I'he peo Ordori tlie Ar<„i '•"uneil-n line, fotv nn\\'(>vor infi'uitry, "lish bcir the Mod, tfi'gi'apJi J'''ad\- to ^vliich M; l'"sition a ^'lllcii, th "i'Jit; no slicltiT liii I laving nr; ^Vrhv^ se ''d!'T it !h' '■"•4-igo in Jlfni on ]| ''."'d, with ^■'^'''t; aii« TARPY RESOLUTION. 547 Stoolo is roportod sayin;^, that the prcsulcnt knows till' ]\[t>cl(»('s are not to hlanic in tliis niattiT, then wliy sliould n<»t the army be turned against the Oiv- HKiiians ?. . .Can you not leave tlie iModoos at rest? (Jive them long, long time. Throw upon Oregon iilone the nvsponsihility of this grave injustice. Is there no way but that our army must recinve hi their breasts the bullets which are shot because of the ;^recd and covetousness of the Orcgoniansr' The quakers also interested themselves for the Mixlocs, Alfred H. Love, of Pliiladelphia, ])rotestnig ;i'';iinst em])loving the army in forcing them to nuike pr.ice, and saving the Peace Society of that city t'i( ely discussed iwul dee[»ly deplored such a cause. ?ihuiy newspajHTS took tliis view of the subject. The jieople of Oregon survive. Oiders now came fr<nn Wasliington to wipe out tlie Afodocs. On tiie day after tlie massacre at tlie (niincil-ground, tlie Indians attacked Mason's skirmish line, forcing the left [ticket post to give way. It was. however, retaki'ii l>y Lieutenant Thellar, of the 'J 1st iiitaiitrv, with a porti«»n of Company I, a sliarp skii'- tiii^ih being ke[»t up all day and a pait (»f the l.'5th. the ^^()d(^cs attackinii. On the 14th (Jeiieral (Jillem trhgraphed Colonel ^Tason asking if he could be ivady to adviiiice on the morning of the Kith; to wliieh !M;ison rei^lied thot lie }ircferred to get his fii'st I'nsition at night, and was ready to move that night. f liHem thtMi ordered him to tak(> his position on that iii^ht; not to make any persistent attack, atid to sh( her his men as well as possible. Donald McKay h.iviiig arrived M'ith a company of seyentv-two Warm Si'niig scouts, which Caiiby had order«<l organized ill'; er it !>eca:ne apparent that t)ie jSIodocs might n^- ciigagc in hostilitic>s, ^lason was dii'ected to ))ost tli<Mii on his left, or on the north side of his strong- iiohl. with onlers to woi-k around toward (Jreens ri.;lit; and bo sure to wear their uniforms to prevent I I Hll! ' I .: V I 1 \' 648 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. n)istakcs; not to use his artillery except ^vhen lio thought it would h< < iToctive; and to hold every iiuli of ground gained. "Tell your men," he said, " b) remember Geneml Canby, Slierwood, ami the flag." The niovement began at midnight, and before day- light the tnn)ps were in position, about 400 yards east of the stronghold, the right infantry, und r Captain Burtoh, resting on the lake, and on the ht>, the cavalr}% dismounted, under Captain Bernard, a section of mountain howitzers under Lieutena:it Chai»in being held suljject to speeial order. Tlic men had thrown up breastworks of stone to conccul their exact position from the tnemy. Soon aft< r daylight the howitzers opened fire, and skirmishinj; conmienced. On the west side Perry and Cranston of the cavalry moved at two o'clock in the morning to a pohit l)t - yond the main portion of the .stronghold on the soutli, where they concealed tlicir men, waiting to be j(»iiii(l at daylight by the infantry and artillery under Alilli r and Throckmorton, with Green and stafi". These h fl camp at seven o'clock, and soon united with Perry's conunand. Miller had the extreme riglit, Throck- morton on his left, and two companies of infantry in the centre; while the cavalry Nwre on the extreme left, touchinij the lake, the intention beinix to elo.sf in gradually on the stronghold from every side. The day was warm and still, and it could be im Ioniser .said, in defence of failure, that i'jfnorance 'if the nature of the ground or obscurity from fog pK - vented success; besides, every man had a [ujrsiitiiil interest in retrieving the honor of the army from tla' humiliati<m of the I7th of January. The first op]"'- sition was encountered a mile and a half from Jack's camp, when straggling shots at long range began t<» fall among the troops, who advanciid in oj)en skirmish order along the lake shore, sheltering theniselves as best tlev could under cover of the ritcks in their wav. On rcachnnj: the gorge under the blulP, a galling lire v";is pn station was gi' and ra| ;uid till time M iittentid (langerc was woi Several also woi to advar li'iitenai li'tlf-pas< the line "pposite fi''>iit wit M'"llled tloop.s ; thro\vin<» thrill a ,) W lit U'ej 111 p'>S-40SJ iniiii |)Ia( ••i^Cfl, only si lo, ajso, "f ilef('nc Ill"ll l)V f( At .six ^^•'f'l. an: st|'()i|_r!io|( "i'4'ht M;),,.^ -Moilors \v 'i"'( cl..s,., 'filled, anrl 'li-'Jiifs Were ''^■'''•y sid(> '^'l-nipthi 11; if' BATn.E OF THE LAVA BEDS R40 vnn poured into tlicni from a large party of !Modocs stiitioiiod tliero. The reserves comiiijr up an order was given to cliargc, wliich was done with suoli force luid rapidity that the Indians were ohliged to retire, and the troops took their position. At the same time Mason was doinnr nil in Jiis j)ower to divide the attention of tlie Modoes, wl;ilo the army passed tliis dangerous point. In tlio eliargo, Li(>ut<'nant Ka'fan wa>5 wouikIcmI in tlio tliigh, but did not leave the field. Several privates of IVIiller's artillery oonnnand w<re also wounded. At two o'clock the order was given to advance the mortars under Captain Thomas and li' iitiMiants (.^'anst(m and Howe, 4th artillery. By li;df-j)ast four t!i(\v were in position, and the left of the line on the west had deployed down the lake opposite to the stronghold, crossing the? ojten space in fiMiit without loss. Half an hour later the Modoes ^ii'Uied to he concc^ntrating their fire on Mason's troops; hut just at this time the mortars hegan tliiowing shells into the Modoc "^losition, which gave tli'iii a (jiversion and arrested their fire. So far all w lit W(dl. Tlu! hlulF tak< n by the charge was still ill pos>iession of Miller's men, between wliom and the 111 liii jdateau or mesa, in which the cavs were situ- ateil, oidy two ledges of rock intervened. On !^^ason's silo, also, the Modoes had abaiirlone*! their outer Hue of defences; but the cidouid would not yet ex[)ose his iii'ii by fidlowing them. .Vt six o'(doek the mortars were again moved ftr- w.ird. and by nightfall the trot»[)S in front of the stronghold were ready to seah; the heights. At mid- tii^lit Mason took u[) the position abandoned by the Modoes within 100 yards of tlieir <lefences. The day had closed with eight soldiers wounded and three Killed, and one citizen su])pose(l to be killed. The In- dians wore nearlv surrounded, and fouglit tlu; troops oji • vi'iv side, seemin*if to indicate more stretwrfh than tlii'v w(>ri' supposed to ])ossess. !^fortar ]ttartiee was K'pt n[) throughout the night with inlcrvals of teumin- 850 SOME INDIAN ETISODES. utos. The troops, wlio wcro jjrovitled with tlirco duys c«)oke(l rations, ovorcoats, M.aiikct.s, and 100 rounds of annnunition eacli, rcniainod on tlio field without chan;_'- insjj ])o.sition. Findinjjf when daylij^ht came on the IGth, tliat ^Eason's k'ft untk'r Tlichar had p ),sscssion of tlio mesa, with the Warm Spring scouts on his riglit, and tlie whole line unhrokcn, the Modocs ahantloncd tluir strong defences, and i)assed out Ity unseen trails, g( t- ting on his left and in his rear, pr^'venting his joiuing (irei'u's riglit, as directed by a dispatch from (jillein. Subsequently he was ordered to advance his right, and join (ireeu on the shore of the lake, which move- ment cut the Indians ofl' from water. A sharp iii- gagement took place in ])revi'nting the Indians fr<iiii getting to the lake. J^y ivii o'clock (ireen's liiif had scaled tlie bluff, and reached the to[) of tlie riclij:e next to the stronghold, meeting but little o[t[)ositioii; but it was decided not to push the troops at this point, as there might be a heavy loss without luiy gain ; and the want of water would soon drive th* jVIodocs out of tlieir caverns an<l dc'fences, while it was not likely they couhl find a stronger position anv- where. The work of the ilay consisted simply in skirmishing. Nojunction was effected between !^las- on's left and (Jrei'u's right, the principal resistauci- being made to this m(»vement, the object of wliieh was apparent at a latter period of the battle. In the evenin«j tlie ^^lodocs having a large fire in their camp Thomas dropped two shells into it wliicli wi'fc followed by war w]k)»»[)S, and also l)y crits df rage and pain. After this the ]\Iodoes sliowed thnn- selv(!S and cliallenged the soldiers to do tlu; same, IJut the soldiers were hiddi'U behind stone breast Works in groups of five or six, with orders at no tiim' to allow themselves to be surprisi'd. In the.se little' forts, built at niglit, they slieltered ^^hemselves, and caii;;lit a little sleep, two at a time, while the others watched. '■ CLOSINfi IN. 851 The hardest fi^lit during tho day occurred wlicn Miller was endeavoring to form u junction witli tho Warm Spring scouts, and failed As ho was cross- ing a chasm, tho !Modocs suddenly appeared and tut him oft' with thirteen inon. They fortified theni- srlvos, and fought desjRrately until ahout four in the afternoon, when, shellsbeginning to fall in that vicinity, tlit y left cover and ran into the lims amid a shower ( f i)ulK'ts, losing two men killed and one woundid. Agahi in the evening the Modocs made a movement to hreak through tho lines and get to tlie lake, hut Wire checked by a heavy fire from tho troops. Tho second dav ended with some further advance's made upon tlie ^Fodoe stronghold, and tho moilar batteries in better itosition. The blaze of musketrv along tho jiike sliore In the closinjjf enya-'ement at nine o'clock in the evi'ning was likened to the dartinLj of Hanies on ;i burning pniirio seen at niglit. Once more tho troops remained over night in the field, having nothing warm with tJieir rations but coffee served to them hot. Tlie conditi(»n of the jNlodoes nmst have been vi'ry niiseral)le, hennni'd in as they were, cut off from Wiitei', and not allowed a moment's rest from fi\ ini; .•-IhHs. Those who watched them through field- ulasses ((uriuiX the dav stiid that thev nm from one ' ^ Of/ » jioint of rocks to another back and forth, with no ap- parent motive, seemhigly dismayed by the peril that * ii\ irone<l them. But tlie work of ext(>rniination did not go on as (Tillem desire<l. The Warm Spring war- riors reported killing four ^Fodocs and losing one of tlicifown men. How many wen; killed in their cavt s was unknown. The casualties on the part of the tioops in the two days' fight amounted to seventeen, only five being killed. Cauglit thus in his own trap, tho time had come when Captain Jack should surely bo juit to death. < Ml the morning of tlii^ 17th the lines nu't without ini- 1' 'iiiient, and (.h)sed hi on the stronghold, finding few • hW m '':W'i i SOME INDIAN EPISODES. Modocs to dispute their passage. About eleven the Indians seemed to rally, and the troo})s niu,de a gciieial moveiiieiit to sw('«;p the lava beds. Down upon the fated band they poured, each soldier eager to be first. No quarter now ; think of Canby 1 Thus tliey ruslied pell niell into the stronghold. With uplifted sword and gun ready, all breathless they prepared to strike. But what is this ? Where are the dastardly red skins? Utterly vanished I An examination of the ground showed a fissure in the pedregal leading from the oaves to tlie distant hills. This pass had l)een marked with rocks and poles so that it could be fol- lowed in the darkness; and tlirough it had been con- veyed to a place of safety the families and property of tlie savages, men enough only having been left to keep ui) an appearance of fighting during retreat. It was the eff )rt to keep the pass open and undiscov- ered, that had so long prevented the junction of iVIas- on's left witli Green's right. After having succi'ss- fully retreated to a place of safety, a poi"tion of tin; Modoc warriors returned and enyfaged the trooijs for about one liour. Before quitting the scene altogctlier a party of them esca[)ed to the rear of (rreen's com- mand, and between him and his camp killed a tcan)- stor from Yreka named Eugene Hovey, nmtilating his body horribly, and taking from him four horses and a nmle. Two newspaper correspondents were fired on but they escaped by running. The news that the stronghold had been evacuat'^d, and the Modocs had escaped, was carried by messen- gers in every direction, and the greatest excitement l)revailed. The intelligence was received in Yreka witli "tlie greatest amazement," so sure had been tli hope of tlie s[)eedy close of the war whenever the military were jX'rmitted to act in their proper capac- ity. Even now people tried to comfort themselves by repeating tliat the stronghold was captured. But tlie mere possession of tlie classic caves, now that .Ta( k was out of them, and free to carry on a guerilla war- EVACUATION OF THE STRONG HOLD. r):.3 faro, was a matter of small felicitation, if not of posi- tive solicitude. In the caves were found evidences of the death of scventeeu of the Modocs as it was believed. It ap- jiiared that most of tlie women and cliildren had \kvii removed previous to the assassination. Many siiells wore found to have exiJoded in and ahout the ^[odoc camp, from which it is judged that they nmst liuve had many wounded. A body was found which was supposed to be that of Scarface Charley, tlu; su[>position being confirmed by an old woman found ill tiie cave and taken prisoner. It was also believed that Sconchin was killed. This was afterwards learned to be an error. Their scalps were still saft; on tlieir heads, though a sergeant of troop K, 8th cavalry, thought he had secured tliat of Scarface as a trophy. (^>uery: because savagism scal}>s, may civilization? Does it make devils of men to fight the devil with his own weapon? Smoke from fires in the southeast indicated that tlio Indians were fleeing in the direction of CJooso lake or Willow springs. The cavalry was ordered to pursue. Captain Perry setting out on the morning of the 18th to make a complete circuit of the lava beds, which compelled him to march about eighty miles. The Warm Spring scouts also were scouring the country to the eastward. Both connnands were out tun days witliout seeing the enemy. In the mean- time !^tason was ordered to hold tlie ]\I<)doc fortress with his couHuand, and the property of his camp at Hosj)ital rock was removed to his former camp on tho peninsula or Scorpion point. The cavalry not with Perry were ordered to this camp. This left tho tiiiil along the lake exposed to attack from tlie enemy's Scouts. On the 18th the Modocs came in plain sight on a ildn'o about two mil?s oft", and seemed by their largo liies to be burning their dead. They also fired an w. m ***■■?,„, ^^::';!|| (L i ■: ..IS IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ;^iiiiiM iiM t^ IIM III 2 2 i'~ ,i.;„n 1.8 U III 1.6 <^ V Photographic Sciences Corporation \ •SJ ^\ [V 4s 23 WIST MAirM : TREET WEBSTER, NY. M580 (716)872-4503 ^2^14 ^ '«*?^ S^ 1 654 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. occasional shot during the clay from nearer points. On the morning of the 19th as a pack-nmle train was on its way from Scorpion point to Mason's camp on the lava beds with supplies, escorted by twenty men under Lieutenant Howe ; it was attacked by eleven ]\Iodocs in ambush, who were driven back. Lieuten- ant Leary, coming to meet the train with an escort, had been less fortunate, losing one man killed and one wounded in passing the same spot. As the train was entering the lava beds it was again fired on ; and again on returning, at both the attacking point:;. Dunng tlie day the Indians crept up to within a few hundred yards of the pickets, firing a volley into camp. A shell dropped among them by Captain Thomas scattered them for that day. They showed tliemselves liowever on the 20th; going to the lake for water they fired on the Warm Spring warriors burying their dead, and even had the audacity to batlie themselves in the lake in sight of camp, only a feeble attempt being made to get at them by the as- tonish (1 soldiery. In fact, they exhibited no fear about approacliing the army camps, and the Warm Spring warriors were posted at the head of the bay between the lava beds and Hospital rock to prevent the Indians visiting the abandoned camp to pick u}) cartridges, coming to the lake for water, or stealing into Gillem's camp to gather information as spies. Why did not the troops go forward and grind tlio savages to powder? The men were impatient enougli to be doing something, and vexed because General Gillem preferred to wait for two companies of the 4th artillery, en route from San Francisco to Fort Crook under Cai)tain John Mendenhall and H. C. Hasbrouck, but which, on the news of the escape of the Modocs at headquarters department of California were telegraphed to proceed by the way of Shasta valley to report to Gillem. They now thought they knew that the IModocs could not be surrounded; or THE MODOCS AT LARGK 855 waling id tlie iiougli cucral of the , Fort H. C. cape of Uforuia Shasta it they led; or if they were they had to be assailed in their strong position, and killed or captured. To accomplish this it was not numbers that could effect it, but skill and daring. The officers as well as the troops shared in the general impatience at the course of the command- ing officer, and went so far as to say that he consid- ered only his own personal safety, remaining in camp during the throe days' battle, and after the kittle having all the troops that could be spared posted at his camp. When the peace commission was terminated by the assassination of Canby the whole frontier was thrown into a state of alarm followed by an attempt t(j place it on the defensive. Governor Grover was informed 1)V telegraph that the road from the Rogue river to Klamath valley was dangerous and that the settlers had been warned. He was asked to order out 300 volunteers; and did issue a proclamation calling for that number of men to serve on exposed portions of the frontier. He ordered Ross to raise a volunteer company, and open the road from Jacksonville to Linkville, and to take to the settlers in the Klamath basin forty-eight needle guns with 300 rounds of am- munition, which had been issued a month previous in anticipation of difficulties following the failure of the peace commission, and stored at Jenny creek on the road to Linkville. At the same time the gov- ernor sent dispatches to United States senators J. K. Kelly and J. H. Mitchell, directing them to ob- tain an order from the war department for 500 needle ''uns to be turned over to the state of Oret;on for the nearest arsenal, 200 of which were due on a former refjuisition, and the remainder to be credited to the state on quotas due in the future, which arrangement was effected. When it became known that the ^[odocs had left their stronghold, great consternation l)ievailed among the inhabitants of northern Cali- fornia, and the wildest rumors gained credence. On :m 556 SOME nsT)IAN EPISODES. the 19th J. K. Luttrel of the third congressional district of CaUfornia arrived in Yreka with the intel- ligence that the Indians of the lower Klamath and Salmon rivers were fully informed on the Modoc war, and there could be no doubt that Modoc runners had visited all the northern California and southern Ore- gon tribes. He had joined a company of volunteers going out to bring in the remains of young Hovey, shot on the I7th, for the purpose of visiting the scenes of hostilities, and to make a report upon them in his position as representative. The information he acquired, however, was obtained in Yreka, and from the same source that furnished all the informa- tion that was permitted to reach Washington at this time. On the 20th the courier from headquarters to Yreka was fired on while riding express about four miles west of camp, the news of which alarmed the settlers on Willow and Hot creeks, who apprehended visits from small marauding bands of Modocs, and sent their families to Yreka. To add to the excitement, the Indians on the lower Klamath and in Scott valley were holding mysterious dances and ceremonials, decked in their war paint. The same rites had been observed in Goose Lake valley, where also much alarm was felt. Fresh direction was soon imparted to operations by the discovery of the Warm Spring scouts that the Modocs were, after all, within the lava bed limits, although six miles to the south of the former camp. Here they had strongly intrenched themselves, and were adding to their supplies and courage by frequent descents on goods-trains and wayfarers. Their retreat revealed, they became more daring, and ventured with great bravado within range of the military headquar- ters only to disappear as if by magic before pursuers. It liad been learned by experience that in these nat- ural strongholds, with their knowledge of the ground, they could defy a manifold superior force in compara- THE MODOC'S SURRENDER, 657 tive safety, while the besiegers were exposed at every turn or advance. The press and pubhc alternated between expressing apprehension of Indian raids and condemnation of military maneuvres, and seemed to favor a proposal of certain rash spirits for hunting down the miserable remnant of Modocs at so much per scalp, as the cheapest and surest way of settling the difficulty. In dealing with fiends, fiendish measures were allowable, they argued. Regular warfare wa^i evidently ineffi- cient, and would involve the needless sacrifice of blood and money. The military naturally scouted the imputation cast on their ability, notwithstanding repeated missteps. During the first march toward the new Modoc retreat, they allowed thomselves to be surprised by the enemy, which fell upon the reconnoitering force of Major Thomas, and scattered it in confusion, with the loss of twenty-two killed, and a number of wounded, while only one Modoc perished, through his own carelessness. The result was another period of inaction, to await reenforcements, during which the soldiers freely ex- pressed their lack of confidence in officers whose only achievements seemed to be leading them into traps. Lack of water compelled the Modocs once more to seek a new refuge. On their way to Snow mountains they came upon a detachment sent to head them off from so undesirable a direction. In the effort to stampede this force, like that of Major Thomas, they were foiled, partly through the promptness of the Warm Spring Indians. The pursuit by the soldiers was, moreover, so hot that the attacking band lost its horses, together with the reserve ammunition. Thus crippled, they were obliged to turn toward Indian Springs, there to be speedily surrounded by the troops. In this dilemma they negotiated through Fairchild, offering to surrender to him if promised their lives. This was agreed to, and on May 2 2d Fairchild brought in seventy captives, including a %W 558 SOME INDIAN EPISODES. dozen warriors, among them Steamboat Frank, Sliack- nasty Jim, Bogus Charley, and Hooker Jim. The band proved to be mainly Cottonwood Creek Indians, who under accumulating reverses had tired of danger and hardships. Not content with abandon- ing their comrades, the above leading spirits actually volunteered to aid in capturing Jack, who with twenty braves had pushed eastward to Willow creek. Guided by these renegades, captains Jackson and Hasbrouck came so close upon the fugitives that several of their squaws were secured. After being i>ursued to Langell vallev, half their number surrendered, includinij: Scar- face Charley Jack availed himself of the parley to hasten away, only to be intercepted by a detachment under Captain Perr}-, to whom he gave himself up on June 1st tojjether with a few followers. Nearlv all the remainder were fathered in durinfj the follow- ing three daj's. Thus ended the six months campaign of the Modocs, which cost the government one third of a million in dollars, exclusive of pay and equipment of troops, and a casualty of one hundred soldiers, killed and wounded, not counting hapless settlers and their heavy losses in property. Of the eighty war- riors who started the war, fifty sur\'i\ed, with over a hundred women and children. General Davis was ordered to try the captives by court-martial, regardless of the demand by Oregon for the surrender of certain nmrderers amomv them to her civil authorities for trial. Meanwhile a band of Hot Creek Indians, under transmission to Boyle's camp, were attacked by m?.sked men and four of them shot. No investigation followed this cowardly deed. The court-martial, which sat between the 5th and 9tli of July, condemned to death Captain Jack, Boston Charley, Sconchin, Black Jim, Watch-in-tate, and Sloluck. The sentence of the last two was commuted to imprisonment for life at Alcatraz, where they died ; the other four expiated their crimes on October 3d, at Fort Klamath. The reneirades who had assisted FINAL DISPOSAL. ino to rapture them wore granted their lives, yet two of these were ringleaders, and the worst characters in the band. The remnant of the Modocs, one hundred and fifty-five, including foi-ty-two males, were moved to Indian territory, under the chieftainship of Scar- faced Charley, their most cultured representative. Scho il and aijricultural trainiuijc has made them «j;cntle and nearly self-sustainhiij. Old Sconchhi remains with his peaceable followers on the Oregon reser- vation. Whatever the opinion concerning Modoc character and claims, a certain admiration must be accorded to the stubborn determination of the band, and its suc- cess in so lontj resistino- with a mere handful of war- riors the overwhelming military forces, supported by a wide-spread connnunity bitterly hostile to Indians. The country was favorable to guerilla warfare, how- ever. The ISIodocs were acquainted with every foot of the ground, and used to a flitting forest life, while tlie troops were hampered not alone by inexi)erience in this respect, but by rigid regulations unduly enforced bv officers with deficient trahiinij; for such service. The former had, moreover, secret allies among the apparently neutral tribes of the region, which were onlv too olad to aim an indirect blow at the white in- viiders. Nor were traders lacking, or even oflHcials, who found it to their interest to prolong the cam})algn. Once started on the war-path, the Indians were l>ronii)ted both by fear of vengeance and by the hope for some happ}'- turn of affairs to persevere. Eastern people, safe in their seclusion, could not understand the danger and sufl^bring of pioneers with wives and children and scanty means, exposed to the mercy of exasperated natives. They felt inclined rather to sympathize with a brave minority api)arently fighting for hearth and home, for existence, against ruthless frontiermen and soldiers, intent alone on usurpation and glory. Their representations before an admuiistratiou equally unconscious of the real state k,4 r m M 560 SOME INDIAN EPIFODKS. of affairs brought about the issue of instructions which tied the hands of both settlers and troops, and werc! the principal cause for the prohmgation of the war and the many attendant misfortunes. CHAPTER XX. SOME CHINESE EPISODES. Bom. — So have I heard on Afric's burning shore A hungry lion give a grievous roar; The grievous roar echoed along the shore. Artax. — So have I heard on Afric's burning shore Another lion give a grievous roar. And the tirst lion thought the last a bore. — Bomlxitttat FurioM. In the annals of our coast there is no fouler blot tlian the outrages perpetrated at various times and places upon Indians, Mexicans, and Chinese. Viewed from any standpoint the aspect is revolting. As a free and forward nation we fling over the walls of a close despotism sentiments which would have disgraced feudalism. As a progressive people we reveal a race jtrejudice intolerable to civilization; as Christians we art' made to blush beside the heathen Asiatic; as just and humane men we slaughter the innocent and vie with red-handed savages in deeds of atrocity. Let the diabolism rest where it belongs, with un- principled demagogues and our imported rulers from the lower social strata of Europe; such is surely not tl;e sentiment of true, high-minded American citizens. It is infamy enough for our people to bear, that sucli tilings are permitted in our midst. Since our first occupation of these shores the better class of citizens from the eastern United States have discountenanced impositions upon foreigners. The foreigners them- selves, and chief among them the low Irish, are the ones who must bear the blame. To question a right guaranteed by constitution and treaty, to punish the innocent, to prosecute the unoffending, cruelly to en- Cal. Int. Poc. 36 (Obi) mAm 562 SOME CHINESE EPISODES. tcrtairi the weak, and despitofuUy to treat the poor is 11;) part of An^^lo-Aincricaii character. I have } ot to find the first instance where atrocities upon the Chi- nese were not condemned by the connnunity, by nine- tontlis of them, and Ijy those who op[)os(xl by every fair and humane means the presence of Asiatics in our midst. Accursed bo tlie day that made from the dis- tempered slums of European ce.ss-pools tlie first American citizen, and gave liim power so to influence for evil our politics 1 Prominent among the outrages in California upon the Chinese are those at Los Angeles in 1871, and in Chico in 1877. There are thousands of minor impo- sitions, from the stoning of a pig-tail by school boys, to the massacre of a Chinese mining-camp by bad- blooded diggers, many of which I have given else- where, but most of which were unrecorded, save by the avenLjing an*jel. Yet these two instances illus- trate the extreme to which this spoliation has been carried in California. Negro Alley was the Barbary Coast or Chinatown of Los Angeles. The alley itself was a small street connecting this hotbed of human depravity with the business portion of the city. The two quarters, so near and yet so socially distant, were in marked contrast, as marked as the Five Points and Broadway, or as St Giles and Piccadilly ; old-fashioned, low, one-storied, whitewashed, tiled, windowless adobe buildings stand- ing amidst filthy and unkept surroundings charac- terizing the one, and brick warehouses, banks, and gay shops the other. The denizens of Negro Alley comprised the dregs of the nations. Asiatic, African, and European, Latin and Indian there lived in un- holy association, and for vocation followed thiev- ing and murder. This was the nest, the city quar- ters of that large fraternity of crime that fed on southern California, Arizona, and northern Mexi- co. It was the rendezvous of bandit, burglar, pi tty thief, and gentlemanly highwayman, of men of all sorts, small In addin demo brotli^ As el; Were Itroke fisiicu; uliicli a rule trials { tliems( cution eeedini Women for vik Bv thr ing or Were o their li' On A of tJie f'onipan one oft] one of t company then ab( suhmitte Were dn befi^re tJ Yo Hin day a pi tico of tl the folio t^ase .$!,( forward arising ai AFFAIR IN LOS ANGELES. sorts, to bo bought with money, and some for a very small amount. In this the lowest of terrestrials made their abode, adding their full (juota to the general fund of filtli and demoraliaition. One of their institutions alone, the hi'otliel system, occupied about two-thirds of a block. As elsewhere among the Chinese in California there were two rival companies who?e antagonisms often hi'oke out in battles of 'jjri'ater or less degree, from fis^icuft'to firearms. A case arose concerning a woman wliicli excited unusual animosity between them. As a rule the Chinese were able to manage their own trials and punisliments, and admhiister justice among tliemselves after their own fashion, even to the exe- cution of offenders ca})itally, and to keej) their pro- ceedings covered from the eyes of the law. But their women, almost all of whom were held as chattels and f )r vile purposes, were sometimes too nmcli for them. By throwing ofl* the yoke for the purpose of marry- ing or other object, and appealing to the law they were of course protected from their owners, though their lives were endangered thereby. On Monday the 23rd of October, 187 1, the prologue of the present tragedy was recited. The Ah Choy company accused tiie Yo Hing company of abducting one of their women, and marrying her Melican fashion to one of their own men, in order to deprive the Ah Choy company of their claim to her. Women were worth thin about $400 each, and the outrage was not to be sul)mitted to. Loud caterwauling ensued ; then knives weie drawn and pistols fired. No damage was done befiire the contending parties were arrested though a Yo Hing jacket was pierced by two bullets. Next day a preliminary examination was had before a jus- tice of the peace, and bail fixed for appearance in court the following day, in one case $500, and in another case .$1,000. The manager of the Ah Choy came forward and proffered security, when, the question arising as to his ability to pay, an officer was sent to ■",'*¥ 564 POME CHINESE EPISODES. I examine his effects. Tlie exhibit of $3,000 in gold and a large package of greenbacks was reported as the result, and the bond accepted. This display of wealth may have had its influence in feeding the fires of violence which followed. Free again, the Chinamen returned at once to their fight. Their hatred for each other was now thor- oughly aroused; fighting men had been brought from a distance, and to death or any other consequence they had become ravingly indifferent. Renewal of the contest having bc^en anticipated, scarcely were their shots aijain heard when mounted officers were on tlie spot attempting new arrests. But the Chinese, in- furiated by tlie interference of law, as well as by their own quarrel, pointed their weapons at the approaching officers, and firiny: fled to their dens. S!)ectators coni- ing to the rescue, the officers agam advanced, and were again fired upon, this time with more fatal eftect. An officer, and a citizen, Robert Thompson, were struck, the latter dying in an hour and a half Others were also wounded. The assailants retiring, the Asiatics for a moment were masters of the field. Thus far the Chinamen were wrong and deserved punirhment, while the officers ar, ' the people acted rightly. But now followed one of those outbursts of demoniacal passion but too common in countries where the people are accustomed to think and act for them- selves. Attracted by the firing, a crowd had gathered. Houses in the neighborhood had been closed, and iron shutters fastened. And now at the sight of blood, quicker than it takes to write it, a chain of men was thrown around the block so that none might escape. The evil element of the place, some in hope of plunder, others from love of slaughter, rushed to the front and assumed the offensive. Scores of pistols were drawn, and for a moment the shot rattled briskly against the Chinese tenements ; then all was still. But it was the murderous stillness of the mon- ster making ready its death grip. Then low curses CELKSTIALS CAflED. 60S were heard, hissed and whispered at the first, but risiiij^ into louder deaunciat'ioiis against tlio whole heathen brotherhood as it ran alony: the lino. Fire was proposed to burn them out; but fear of general conria«;rations brought forward those whoso property would bo endangered, and the plan was abandoned. (fOod citizens interposed their cooler counsel, but without avail. The opportunity for blood and plunder was too good to bo lost, Ilevenge upon a weak and l;('ll)less race, upon those who had never injured tiicni, upon those whose only crime was a too plodding in- dustry, was likewise u[)permost in the minds of many. Presently one of the besieged attempted escape. With a hatchet in his hand ho issued from on" if tlio houses, and running along the front a slu)rt dis- tance endeavored to cross the street, when he wus captured by an otlicer, and led away toward tlie jail. The crow ! followed cryiiuj: *' lEani; him 1" "Take liini from Harris 1" "Hang liiml" One of the mob tried to plunge a knife into his back. He was a littlo Chinaman for sue h bi«j reveuLre. Finallv when half way or more to the prison he was taken from the not unwilling officer's hands and hanged, hanged to the crossbeam of a gateway convenient, bung- iiiolv hanjjed until tlic little fellow was verv dead. Tlio dance of death >vas now fairly oj)ened. Like the flames of a city burning, the conflagration of Hsjiulish passion roared and surged round tlie hapless inmates of the Chinese block, as the crowd with brutal ferocity fell afresh to their sanguinary task. The sheriff with all his assistants sought now to divert the fury of the fiends. The citizens likewise lent their aid. But all in vain. Satan himself was piping for his own to dance. With yells of savage blasphemy in answer to the cry for more blood, another rush was made upon the build- ings. Mounting the roofs, they tore away the tiles a;id fired upon the inmates, an exultant yell followinir each successful shot. Wherever it was possible about SOME CHINESE EPISODES, the tenements to open with axe, or bar, or sledge an aperture through which to fire, it was done. For three hours this continued at sickening length. At last the doors of tlie charnel-house were broken open and a sea of horror, shrouded by the dismal night, rolled stifling over the senses. Sprawling in their gore, crouching in corners, and under banks were ti:c mangled forms of moaning men, and women, and chil- dren upon whoui this terrible destruction had come thus suddenly. Little respite the rabble gave them. Dragging from their hiding places the trembling in- mates, one by one they brought them to the door, where others halted and hurried them to execution. A cluster of three were hanged to the end of a gutter-spout overhanging a corridor; other three were dangled from the edge of an awning ; four were strangled at the sides of a wa^on: four were taken to the gateway where the first was executed and sus- pended from the same beam. When the rooms were emptied of their living occupants, the bodies of three who had been shot to death remained, and many others wounded. Of those hanged one was a mere child, and children assisted at the execution. "Most of the whites engaged in the hanging," writes an eve- witness to the San Francisco Bulletin, " were men of Hibernian extraction, men in whose countenance you could easily distinguish the brute nature that con- trolled all their actions, but none of that face divine we are so often delighted in looking upon. And these men had all their brutal passions wrought to the highest pitch. But were any stronger evidence ne( - essary of the utter demoralization of this mob than that already adduced, we find it in the fact that tlio city gamins were sprigs of humanity not jet having entered their teens, and alasl women participated in the night's hellish proceedings. Instances of both actually came under my own observation. At tlie place of execution on Los Angeles street, a little urchin, not over ten years old, stood on the top of MURDER AND ROBBERY. B07 the awning from which the Chinese were hanged. He was as active as any one in doing the hangnig. His childish voice sounded strangely at that time and place, as he called aloud for more victims to sacrifice to the demon-god ; and it was a stranger and sadder sight still to behold him lay his hand to the rope, and help them haul them up. And in the background was a woman looking on. Her brogue betrayed her extraction. She loudly congratulated the lynchers on the performance of their diabolical work, and en- couraixed them to continue." Three of the four Chniamen who fired at the officers escaped, and only one of those killed is known to have in any wise offended the law. It was a most inhumane massacre of innocent men. Satiated somewhat with blood, the mob now per- mitted the sheriff to drive such unslaughtered Asiatics as he could find to prison for safe-keeping. Then the work of robbery began, which action stamps at once tlie character of those by whom the murdering was done. Locks were broken and general pillage fol- lowed. Every room of the Cliinese houses in Negro alky was ransacked, and every shelf, trunk, and drawer cleared of its contents. Even the pockets of the murdered men were picked, and from one, a Chi- nese doctor, the clothes were stripped while he was yet hanging. From one was taken $400 wiiile on his way to jail; $7,000 was found in the money-box of a store ; the amount secured by the mob was estimated at from $20,000 to $30,000. The whole affair occu- })led about four hours, closing with half-past nine on the night of Tuesday the 24th. At 1 1 o'clock all was quiet in Negro alley, but it was the quiet of death and desolation. Attempts were made to bring the nmrderers to jus- tice ; but law is poor and puny, in such a case it did what it could. At the coroner's examination wit- nesses were extremely careful how they testified lest thoy should implicate a friend or bring upon them- 868 SOME CHINESE EPISODES. selves the vengeance of desperate men. " The evidence so far," says a telegram of Thursday, "implicates two Irishmen, one having boasted that he helped to get away with three Chinamen." And writes another, " Let those at a distance not be too hasty in passing judgment in this matter. These acts of atrocity were perpetrated by a comparatively small number of men, of the very worst class in the community." The grand jury of Los Angeles indicted thirtv-scven per- sons for riot. Two of them were also indicted for as- sault with deadly weapons, two for assault to commit murder, and twenty-five for murder. They stated in their report that the parties engaged in the disgraceful scenes of the 24th of October were " the worst elements of society, and in their cruelty, and savage treatment of unoffending human beings, their eagerness for pillage and blood-thirstiness ex- ceeded the most barbarous races of mankind. No attempt was made by any officer to arrest person's en- gaged in the taking of human life even in their prc.- e:ice. Hundreds of law abiding citizens , who were u.iwilling witnesses of the sad spectacles of that nl'ijht, would have quickly and clieerfully assisted in endhig tlie anarchy had some resolute man, clothed with authority, placed himself at their head.* One dark, rainy night in December 1876, fifty or sixty men, most of them armed with guns and pi jtols, met in the woods near Chico for the purpose of adopt- iacf measures for the exteruunation of the Chinese in that vicinity. Their immediate plan was to fire the Sierra mill, where Asiatics were employed, and to bum both Chinatowns. During the session their emissaries were out, gathering with guarded intima- tions recruits from among those known as favorable to the cause, who as they approached the assemblage cried "You" and were answered "You" such beinix the pass- word. After some parley t!ioy began to divide into three parties for the three proposed burn- AFFAIR m CHICO. 639 ings, when opposition arose, some saying tliat they were opposed to Chinese labor, but they were also opposed to burning property. Many wore in favor of the most sanguinary measures, which should stop at nothing short of killing all the Chinese together with their white employers. The discussion waxed warm, and continued so late that action was postponed, and the conspirators departed to meet openly m the town hall the second night thereafter. At the place named, and at two subsequent open meetings the question was freely discussed, many opposed to vio- lence taking an active part in the proceedings. But there were those bent on blood whom mild measures would not pacify. These met secretly again at Armory hall ; and when those who favored clearing that locality of Chinese by killing and stanipeding them were called upon to enroll their names, some sixty or seventy came forward and and signed the compact. Constitution and b^'-laws were then adopted. The organization was named the Anti-Chinese and Workingmen's Association. Ofiicers were to be elected In' ballot to serve for a term of six months, and were to consist of a president, vice-president, secretary, corresponding secretary, treasurer, marshal, inside guard, and outside guard. To be eligible for member- sliip the applicant must be not less than eiofhtet^n years of age, and nmst hold opinions opposed to the presence of Asiatics, and to those who employ, i);it- r tn'ize, or advise them, or lease them houses or lands. An initiation fee of one dollar was named, an<l signs, grips, and passwords adopted. Officers of the law were to be resisted if nt^cessarv, and the word "Nine" was the cry of distress. The arm raised over the head with the palm of the open hand forward was a signal for help. For greater efficiency the management was en- trusted to a Council of Nine, consisting of three cap- taii;s and six lieutenants, who were thems' Ives to execute their decrees, though they might call on any I mm III 1%, S70 SOME CHINESE EPISODES. member for assistance, and do all the necessary burn- ing and killing, which latter might include white men as well as Chinamen. Oaths were administered promising secrecy and implicit obedience to the or- ders of the council of nine, under penalty of death. Over 150 members were enrolled upon this basis. The council of nine had their secret place of meet ing, which was over a butcher's shop, where they en- tered one at a time. Most Californian towns are satisfied with one Chi- nese quarter. Chico had two, besides scattered clumps of Celestials in their shingle shanties or white tents wherever they happened to be at work. The first meeting of the council of nine was held in February 1877, on which occasion it was proposed to burn old Chinatown. Failing to reach a conclu- sion, the meeting adjourned to the second night after, when the proposition came up to burn both China- towns. As time and the cause progressed the killing of six prominent citizens was seriously discussed. John Bidwell was specially obnoxious for employing Chi- nese, and opposing coercion. Said Wrlt^ht the stable- man on one occasion, "If the council orders me I will go out and return immediately with Bidwell's scalp." A secret society called the Order of Caucasians had existed for some time on this coast, based upon igno- rant and fanatical opposition to Mongolians. This organization was composed mostly of foreigners, with a few American mountebanks, who for the privilege of acting as leaders did not hesitate to pander to the lowest passions and prejudices of the demented fana- tics. While affecting great regard for law and order, they bound themselves to principles tending to tlio most diabolical crimes. Caucasian clubs, or encanqi- ments as they were called, were scattered throughout the entire country. Second only to their outrageous measures against Mongolians was their declared an- tagonism against American citizens who employed or SECRET SOCIETIES. in befriended the Chinese. Was ever such impudence heard of? By tliese alien hodcarriers, and the iMjllti- cal pimps their associates, such citizens of the L'nitcd States as preferred to employ Chinese to Irish were denounced as public enemies, whom to injure within their coward limit of law was imposed as a duty 1 The followinj' extract from the Caucasian constitution speaks their condenmation in stronger terms than mine. " Each camp and every individual Caucasian, and every encampment, and the supreme camp, pled<^es to each and every merchant, manufacturer, and trader, trav- eler, mochanic, and laborer, thus acting, all their indi- vidual and combined influence, power, advertisement, and patronage; and shall oppose to annihilation by every manner and means within the thin gauze of the law all others. "And it shall be the bounden and solemn duty of every Caucasian, of every camp, encampment, and the supreme camp, to pursue and injure every one while he remains on the list of public enemi(!S, and each and everv one forever, in all their walks of life, save religion, morality, and person. "Every Caucasian, every camp, every encampment, and the supreme camp, shall labor to impede, harass and destroy a public enemy by every mode and means, and manner, known and unknown, wltliin the reach of brains and thought and act, and within the bounds of law. "In his business, his means, his substance, his peace and success, publicly, privatv,ly, socially, commercially, and abov . U politically. "Should property be lost because of such duty, tho same not being insured, upon the pro[)er show- ing encam[)ment shall pay the fullest insurance that might have been secured upon such property ; and Insured or not, encampment shall aid the faithful l)rf>ther financially and in his credit to replace all losses. "Should loss be occasioned because of the duty of ip\ : ■1! 572 SOME CHINESE EPISODES. Caucasians in regard to the property of public ene- mies, camps shall appraise the loss, pay it immediately to the fullest farthing, and forward receipt and certi- fied copy of such appraisure to the secretary of the encampment. "A Caucasian who knowingly breaks his pledge as regards public enemies, shall be charged with perjury, and if guilty, declared a public enemy, and if an offi- cer perpetual public enemy." With no other charge than that an employer had discharged white labor and substituted Chinese, or contemplated doing so, threats were made of fire and death ; and humiliating was it to see these free white Americans come forward and disclaim such intention, tacitly admitting the right of the questioners to place them under bonds. The evil eflects of this society, besides frequent outbreaks of violence which might be traced directly or indirectly to it, were seen in the bold defiant tone assumed by its members, and in the idlers that crowded the streets and who would not work ex- cept at exorbitant wages. Living at this time in Chico was a launder, John Slaughter, a name significant of celestial achievement, native of Arkansas, born of a Cherokee mother, and aged twentv-three. He was a member of the work- ingman's association, to join which he discharged all the Chinese in his service, hoping thereby to obtain the patronage of the members. Philip Rondos was his partner, and the Chinese washermen ran them a strong opposition. Not long after John Slaughter had joined the league, a stableman, Henry C. Wright, also a mem- ber of the brotherhood, who had killed his man in Nevada, and with H. J. Jones had burned Bidwell's soap factory, informed John Slaughter that he, his brother Charles Slaughter, Wright, and F. Conway, were ordered by the council to assist at the burnini,' of the Chinese quarters at a time named, and that all divulge the were to take an ironclad oath never to CONSPIRACY AND CRIME. 679 plot nor to be taken alive. Meanwhile some difficulty arising between the council and their president A. M. Ames, the adventure was postponed. After this, meetings of the order were regularly held Monday nights, the council discussing proposed l)urnings and killings. It was ordered that Een True sliould be r.ssassinated for guarding the Chinese quar- ter after the attempt to burn their liouses had failed. ( )n the night of March 8th, Eugene Roberts and John Slaughter met opposite the Chico hotel. '* Business," ejaculated John. "What business?" asked Roberts. "Some of us are going to burn old Chinatown," John replied. In an open space in the rear of the town thoy met a1)C)ut twelve ochxjk that night. One of the number, Holderbaum, obtained three sacks of straw, and sat- urating them well with coal oil started for the Chi- nese quarter. For half an hour after the dogs barked so loudly they were obliged to keep off, but finally tney succeeded in shoving the straw under a house occupied by a Chinawoman and igniting it. Next, the incendiarism of the Butte Creek Gardens, wliose tenements were rented by Chinese was ordered, and this time more distinguished action followed the order. By the council of nine James Fahey was directed to reconnoiter, while the others, armed, should hold themselves in readiness. " There is a big lot of Chinamen down there," said Fahev on his return. "It's got to be done, 1 suppose," ejaculated Wright. "We have to begin some time and somewliere; &o far it has been all talk and no cider." " I didn't know I had to murder men when I joined," said Slaughter. "The council have to father this job, as I'm out of it," growled Fahey, as he walked off toward the room over the butcher's. At 7 o'clock on the night appointed, near Chico ih-i*} 87* SOME CHIN'ESE EPISODES. Creek bridge on the Dayton road, the men again met, and immediately set out through the fields west of the race-track to Edgar slough, and then up the Oroville road to the first Chinese camp opposite which they stopped. Charles Slaughter was now of the party, and also Eugene Roberts, a native of Con- cord, New Hampshire, twenty years of age, a butch- er's butcher by occupation. The latter did not know what infatuation led him into the folly, nor did any one else, unless it was the inspiration of the council of nine that overshadowed him as he sawed bones and cut and chopped meat in the room below. In the vicinity were three Chinese camps; and filled now with the demon of destruction Fahey wished to burn them all; but it was thought best by the others to take the first one that night and leave the others for another time. Close at hand where they now stood, and near the huts, was a barn partially filled with straw, to which through a crack Roberts applied fire. Then they aii ran down behind the banks of the creek near by and made ready their pistols to fire upon the Asiatics as they came out. Rare sport 1 A dog givhig the alarm the fire was put out. Then crawling up to the shanty nearest the barn they began to fire into it. The inch boards of which it was made, with the spa<?c3 exposed by the cracks and windows, afforded not tlio safest protection, and the occupants watching their chance opened the door, dodged the bullets, and ran into the bushes. Charles Slaughter then fired the barn for the second time, and it burned to the ground. This was laurels sufficient for the nijjht. Returnhi<j to headquarters and reporting, they were commended for the bravery and skill with which they opened tlic campaign. John Slaughter was made lieutenant and others promoted. On the Humboldt road two miles east of Chico, at Chris Lemm's ranch, stood a shanty tenented oii the night of March 14, 1877, by six Chinamen, whose MORE MURDER. 573 occupation just then was clearing a piece of ground by contract, which work had been previously offered to white men, and by thein refused, at four dollars an acre more than the Mongolians received. In the afternoon of the day mentioned, Roberts called at Slaughter's laundry and asked John to ac- company him to the slaughter-house and assist in turning up beef. John assented. While engaged at their work Roberts paused as if a thought had sud- denly struck him. " Let's gf) up and burn the China cabin on Lemm's ranch," he said. "Agreed." replied Slaughter. " Who will go ? " *' Fred Conway and I, Thomas Stainbrook, and Charles Slaughter, making five in all," said Roberts. The party met according to agreement just above the house of Roberts father shortly after 7 o'clock, and proceeded up the Humboldt road toward Lemm's rancho, Roberts and John Slaughter marched before, aiul the others followed. Roberts was captain of the occasion. A wagon passing, all hid themselves behind a log. Neither Conwav nor Steinbrook knew the exact nature of the work to be done ; hence they were somewhat startled upon Robert's cooly remark- ing as they neared the hut, "Unless we kill the Chinamen we will be arrested." They did not object to rob them and burn the premises, but thc}'^ were not prepared to murder. The others wore, however, and it was too late now for any to retreat. None of them were disguised. Scaling a fence the party a])proached the house and entered. Within were six Chinamen lounging off the fatigues off a hard day's work in various attitudes about the room. Instantly every one of them were covered by revolvers in the hands of the assaulting party. They were then ordered to come forward and seat themselves close toorether on the floor. While three of the assailants stood guard over them, two, Roberts and Charles Slaughter emptied their pockets and examined the i i, 1 I' III m SOME CHINESE EPISODES. premises. A carpet-bag and valise were broken open but nothing of value discovered. Taking from his pocket a bottle of kerosene Roberts emptied it upon the victims and about the floor. Then calling upon all to make ready, he cried " Fire I " and each select- ing his man four of the six unfortunates fell dead, and the other two so badly wounded that they were suppf)sed to be killed. Some of the party fired twice. The nmrderers then fled, taking different routes back to town, and neglecting in their awe-stricken haste to fire the premises as they had intended. It was about 9 o'clock that the killing was done, and at ten the murderers were at their homes and most of them in bed. Peaceful must have been their slumbers that night. It had been agreed that in case any of them were arrested Wright should swear they were in his stable at the time. The 1 6th of March a public meeting was held at which it was agreed * that the citizens of Chico view with horror the assassination of peaceful Chinamen, and the indiscriminate destruction of property which has prevailed recently in our midst, and v/e pledge ourselves to use our utmost power to bring to justice the perpetrators of these outrages, and to this end will cheerfully second any effiirts of our oflScers." In- dignation ran high on the afternoon of the same day, when it was discovered that a notice had been posted on the office door of the Keefer rancho cautioning tlio proprietor against the employment of Chinese un- der penalty of destruction of the premises. Two men were arrested on suspicion. Next day the excitement was still more increased by the receipt by many citizens of threatening notices, all mailed after eight o'clock the night previous. " Get rid of your Chinese help within fifteen days or suffc r the consequences." Signed "Committee." A threat was sent to an officer by mail that if lie took any meas- ures for the detection of the murderers of the China- men, he himself would be killed. The question of ARRESTS. 577 forming a vigilance committee vas seriously tlisrusscd l)y the citizona. The law seamed petrified ; if any- tlilnij was to be accomplished the people nmst do it. A reward jf ^1,500 waaotfered by the people of Chico, $,)00 by the Chinese association called the Six Ccmii- ))anies of San Francisco, and $1,000 by the governor <.'f the state. By the 27th eleven arrests had been nuule, one of a man caught mailiiu' an anonvinous ] -tter to an officer threateinng death if he attempted to arrest the incendiaries. All were members of the workingmen's association, and six were reputed Caucasians. The first arrest was that of Conway who was de- tected mailing threatening letters. Shadowed for two (lays he was finally arrested, and after two days con- finement exposed the wjjole plot. Wright, and the brothers Slaughter, each confessed on being brought to prison. After a preliminary examination at Chico tlie prisoners were moved to Oroville for trial the 27th of March. An attempt at rescue by the frater- nity was feared on the day of removal, and eight men armed with Winchester riflus acted as escort. Four thorough-brace wagons conveyed them from the Chico prison to Oroville. A large throng gathered to wit- ness their departure. The prisoners were in fine sph'its. They seemed to feel the sustaining presence of the brotherhood, and that the people were with t!iem. Not one of the five murderers manifested the s]ij;htest fear of punishment, though by their own co:»fessions guilty of most dastardly villainy and doubly worthy death. Arrived at Oroville, the prisoners were met by a large concourse of people. Here for the first time they began to show signs of fear. They noticed the change in the atmosphere; there were few admir- i ig or sympathetic glances from that crowd; and the same guard which so lately kept them from their friends, now stood between them and, perhaps, more summary justice. All the Chinese at Oroville gath- CAt. INT.POC. 87 Btl SOME CHINESE EPISOPES. ered round the jail to Bee tlie murderers of their countrymen, heavily ironed, taken from the wagons and thrust into jail. It did their hearts good thus to lu-hold the brave Caucasians, and they went immediate- ly to work gatiioring friends to give them a severe pros- ecution at the trial. Conwav, ho who first confessed and tliereby betra3'ed them all, was kei»t at a safe distance from the other prisoners; he was brought over in a sejiaratc wagon and confined hi a cell apart, lest tJiey should tear him to pieces. At half-past ton on the 30th of March the Chico stage dr(»ve up to the Oroville courtliouse, and seven more of the incendiaries and nmrderevs, closely guarded and heavily ironed, were added to the first. This completely filled the jail, and most of the cells con- tained two occupants. By this time all the bravado of the prisoners had left them; tliat whicli at first thoy regarded as a good joke now assumed the gloomy aspect of death. Roberts was the coolest of any ; ho believed he should be hanged, he said, and spejit nmch time reatliiuj: his bible. Conwav was reganltd O I/O as half idiot; he appeared indifferent as to what he- came of him. Ames, first president of tlu; working- men's association, was wild with excitement, and it was feared he would become wholly insane. The "Jd of April a grand jury was impanelled at Oroville, and the town was filled with people. Meet- ings were held by citizens and farmers of Butte county, who were determined to rid the country of the class then in prison. All members of the order of Caucasians and of labor union° were exclutled. The 5tli of Apri the grand jury came hito court anJ reported true bill found against seven for nmrder and seven for arson. \.mong those indicted for munlir were the five per^ trators of the Lemm's rancho vil- lainy. Yet, as tc often happens in the annals of crime, the most gi Ity, the instigators of the outrai^es were permitted t" escape. To obtain their own di>^- charire, members of the council of nine had but to TRIAUS AND COXVICTIONS. BTT i;,Mioro participation In or Banctiou of tiio niurtlors. Tlui people of Butte county were indignant wlicn tliey Karued that the arcli-conspirators liatl been so quickly jil)('rp,t«.d, and gjod men overvwhere were dissjip- ])iiint(d. But tliis is the old, old story Instead of ( aiioiiization, our courts need renovating, revolutionlx- iii'jr, remodeling. They are a disgrace to civilization. We want twice the efficiency, twice the detection, conviction, and punishment of crhne for one-half the iiionev it now costs On the 7th of April those indicted for arson alone were arraigned. Among these was the .stal>leman H. V. Wright, the coolest and most reckless of them all. " Have you a lawyer i " as^ .d Judge Saft'ord of him. "No sir." 'Do you want one ?" "No 'sir." "Are you guilty or not guilty?" then asked the ell rk. "Guilty," said Wright. Adam Holderbaum pleaded guilty to arson in the second degree. Five were convicted of arson in the second (Kgree and sentenced, one to twenty years, two to ten, and one to five years in the state prison. The 18th of A])ril H. T. Jones was brought into court and convicted of arson in the first deijree. While this trial was in progress a barn was fired by tlie incendiaries and burned to the ground. Charlcss Siaughter then pleaded guilty to arson in the second thgree. Next John Mahoney was tried for arson, and John Slaughter attempted to assist him by false swearing. Thomas Stainbrook's case was called for trial the 23d of j\Iav, and was followed bv those of Charles and John Slaughter, E. R. Koberts, and E. Conway. Stainbrook was sentenced to twenty-seven and a half years' imprisonment, and tlie others to tw(^nty-five years each. Perhaps we should be satisfied with an aggregate 580 SOME CHINESE ETISOBES. of little less than two centuries of servitude for the killing of three Asiatics, and the burning of a few buildings. The presence of too many low Mongol- ians in our midst is not conductive to the highest civilization ; and yet these Chinese were men ; they were coolly and wilfully murdered ; the assassination was as foul and deliberate and unprovoked as any to be found in the annals of crime ; the law makes such killing punishable by death ; and yet these murderers were not so punished. About this time M. Atherton was tried at San Josd for the murder of Edgar May at Santa Cruz, while the latter wag in a state of helpless intoxication, and the murderer likewise drunk. Atherton was sen- tenced twenty-five years imprisoimu nt. Now these sentences, all of them, done into English, simply say that the killing of Chinamen, and killing t!one l>v drunken men is not murder. It is difficult to under- stand why courts and juries any more than vigilance committees have the right to break the law, or to subvert its just operation. During these proceedings a Citizen's Safety Com- mittee had been organized at Chico, of which Mr Theil was appointed treasurer. Hung upon the shut- ter of Mr Thiel's store on Second street the night of April 8th was found the following missive written < n a half sheet of dirty note paper. It is hardly up to the standard of averajxe comnmnications of this sort, though it caused much uneasiness, particularly amor.g owners of grain-fields. *' The devil dreeme on the Chinese question. There are three or four men in this city has been making dam fools of themselves in regard to the daimd Chinese that will get anufe of it before the first of Aui^ust. You must remember it seldom rains hoij after the first of June, and when ever3'^thing is dry a match v/ill burn without sacks of straw or karseeii citlier, and we will also give the farmers of this country notice to look out this season for everi grain. Eveiy FOI.LY OF SUCH ACTIONS. £81 iTians ranch reaped or stacked by the Chinaman is liable to tak fire from the Heat of the sack or the .spark from tlie smoke sack. It looks bad to do sucli uoik but if our state oficers done do something in jKji-tection of the poore we will half to carry it out ourselves and it will be in a ruflf manner to from T. O. MUGINS. "To the Public." The instruments of the Chico outrages were less fanatics than fools. Individually they had nothing to gain and everything to lose by becoming the blind t lols of those who had nothing to lose and every- tiling to gain by warring on a mm-voting class. The antagonism of the stableman and the butcher's clerk to Chinese laborers was inspired neither by race antipathy, fanatical hatred, nor industrial interest. ^ ulgar brutality seems to have been the primary instinct prompting them, and next to this petty plunder. Believing themselves safe from punishment l)V reason of their secret associations, ilattcred by tliose who set them on, they flung forward the bridle n in of their evil natures, and let their low tastes lead thoni whither they would. Secret societies organized fir the accomplishment of a pretended public good, and then lendin«: theuiselves to the commission of crime, cannot be too severely denounced by every lover of honest law and open liberty. rf!;r' CHAPTER XXI. COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. Conrad. — Away ! you are an ass, you are an ass. Dni/l/erri/. — Dost tliou not suspect my place ? Dost then not suspect riy years? O that he were hero to write nie down an a«s ! But, niii:itL'r.s, lo- nieinber that I am an ass; tlmugh it be notMTitten Jowu, yet forget not. th.it I am an ass. No, thou villain, thou art full of piety, as shall lie proved upi n thee by good witness. 1 am a wise fellow; and, which is more, uu orticrr, and, which is more, a householder; and, wliich is more, as prolty a piece (t" flesh as any is in ^Messina; and one that knows the law, go to; and a riili fellow enough, goto; and a fellow that hath had losses, and one that ha ili two gowns and everything handsome about him. Bring him away. O tluit I had ])een writ down an ass ! — Much Ai/oA/xiiit Xollibt'j. l.-if, Clown. — Argal, he that is not guilty of his own death shorteuj not Iks own life. iJ:l Clnirn.—Mut is this law? 1st Cloion. — Ay, marry is'L; crowuer's cpiest law. — Hamlet. Courts of justice in California were, in early times, eijual if not superior to those of any new country ( r border settlement founded since the days of Jus- tinian — equal if not superior in ability, stupidity, cr what you will. Anything that courts of justice could do anv where or under anv circumstances, ij;()od or bad, ours could achieve. Yet I may safely say th;it the judges, on the whole, were honest men ; ainl while frecjuently neither educated in law nor n[)eciall\' fitted for the position, they were far above the avci- age magistrates in general intelligence and practical judgment. On the supreme bench and presiding ovi r the district and county courts, particularly in tl •' cities and more thickly populated parts, have bet ii from the first occupation of the territory by citizi lis of the United States until tlic present day, as ;il and erudite jurists, men of as broad and enliglitemil intellects, as might be found elsewhere in J']urope m (082) 111' CHARACTER 0? THE JUDICIARY. jt ir.s incs, ( r J us- er ul.l or tlwit iallv ivcr- fuvl OVCl" tl I' Im'( n l)(' til' America. Sonic v/orc «lissipatetl, but for tlic most l)art tliov wore; nita of iuteoritv. Even tlurinu; the most lawlo8s times tliere were sitting on the judicial beach of CaUfornia men whose purity of hfe and character was never questioned. And to-day a cor- rupt jud-jje is t!ie exce[)tion, not the rule. Witli pride I point to our judiciary, and to the better class of attorneys who practice in our courts. True, a judge nuiy be bribed sonietiujcs, not knowing it; or he may he swayed by public opinion, not knowing it; he may he feasted by bonanza men, or given a free ride across tlie continent by tlie wholesale corruptionists of the railroads, and so warp his decision in their favor — not knowing it. Unfortunately as much cannot truth- fully be said of our legislators and political office- holders who, during the usually short term of their <ic( upancy, seek rather to s« rve themselves than the pui)lic. These are never bril)ed without knowing it, as they always require [)aj'^ in advance. During the Hush times, the days of which I write, we find some dolts and sonie wilfully wicked nun seated even on our higher judicial benches. Through the ab ence of strict social restraint arose laxity in moral observances and ieoal formulas. Amony: the ])oople, vigor of mind broke out into numerous eccen- tricities ; or, rather, the preoccupied citizen, acting naturally and hulependently, not thinking wholly of himself, his dress, and manner, clahning for himself th(! utmost freedom, eating, sleeping, walking, speaking as best jdcased him, threw aside some of the eccen- tric Ities of fashion, and in so doing to the unen- franchised appeai'cd eccentric. Leaving the marts of Itusiiiess for church worship, the same eccentricity of thought, or lack of it, is manifest, though in fonn devotion was not greatly changed. In such a so( ietv it is but natural that from tribunals of justice, as well as from its ministers, some part of that severe decorum wliich characterizes nuire staid and superstitious com- munities should be re noved. 584 COURTS OF JUSTICE AXD COURT SCETTES. Wlience arose, carrying in some things their Hberty into Hbertinisni, the not unusual sights at one time of chief justice and courtesan promenadmg the busiest thoroughfare in company ; of supreme judge seated behind a gambling table dealing faro, arid surrounded by lawyers, politicians, prostitutes, and friends; of supreme judge drinking to drunkenness, carousing all night in elegantly furnished halls of infamy, fight- ing duels, assaulting citizens, and burdened so heavily with debts incurred by licentious living as to become the willing tool of whomsoever would buy him up and offer him for cancellation by the easy though conscienceless method of warped judicial decisions. While such a state of things existed at the fountain- head of justice, we should not be surprised to fintl its Icnver channels somewhat turbid in their flow. While Mammon and Gannnon sat upon the supreme bench it was not difficult to determine what sort of ]>lead- ing was required to win a cause before that tribunal. While he who durinij the morning hours listened as associate justice to the cases brought before one of the upper courts of the metropolis, in tlie afternoon stood by and witnessed a deliberate murder, of which he had foreknowledije and was accessory, beinir the murderer's friend he would naturally hurry him to prison as to a place of safety. Between these two extremes of the best and the worst, in the city and in the country, every shade of character was to be found among the judiciary of California. Nor did personal immorality by any means imply judicial corrujjtion. At a time when the female element was meagre, deference was paid by all classes to the female form, even thout'h its dress cov- ered corruption; nor was it very damaging to any man's reputation, when everything was public, to bo seen in conversation with a public woman. Gambling and drinking saloons were places of ?ublic resort; all classes there met and mingled freely, 'he person so prudish as to hold aloof from such EARLY CALIFORNIA JURISTS. 5S6 places made few friends. There was nothing dis- reputable at that time in being seen in a saloon, and a man would be regarded mean who enjoyed night afte r ilight the shelter, light, and society of the place without ever spending a dollar there. Judges of course frequented drinking saloons; men who never patronized such places were seldoin made judges. A judge's morals were his own, they said ; his olHcial acts alone belonged to the public. The men of chivalry, who indulged in the duels and street encounters, being of all men devoid of the pure article, were of all others the most sensitive to what they called their honor. It so happened among tliose of them who were judges that their ideas of lionor accorded with equitable decisions; though like many professors in otiuT directions their practice was ill no wise hi keeping with their tenets. But for the most part chivalrous judges, though they might in- dulge freely in drunkenness, gambling, and licentious- n ss, when no one was at hand to bribe them, were just and equitable ma ^istrates. It s;) happened again tliat the t rm gentleman im- ])]lcd fair judgment ; though this by no means was always the case. It was with them as with the pom- pous and punctilious of other ages who had nothing but their pride to be proud of As to what consti- tutes a gentleman depends enthely upon time and place. (Toorgo the Fourth of England, voluptuary, (k'l):mcheo, (Egotist, and false-hearted, was called in his day the first gentleman in Europe. Later, dandy- ism, with some intellectual pretensions, in the person of the Frenchman Couiit d' Orsav. becanu^ the ortho- dox type. To dress well, to iltie well, to swim, shoot, box, wrestle, and play cricket well, were the accom- plishments that crowned the gentleman. Lord Ches- terfield's gentlemen were made of manners and hollow- lieartechiess. California's judges were all of them gentlemen, howsoever corrupt or debased they were. While ill tiie cities, and in the higlier courts of the ! R86 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. more settled localities, court proceedings and rulings were governed by precedents and legislative en- actments; throughout the nining regi >u, or other distant or thinly populated districts, common sense took the place of connnon law, wliUe statute-hooks and precedents were flung to the wind as unworthy a sane man's consideration. Such equipage might do for jurists like "tliat bloated p]iil()st>[)her, wlio mis- took declamation for eloquence, and affectation for feel- ing " as Lamartine said of Kaynal; but then if tiiey could not reach the truth witJiout the aid of boolcs and hook-leariung, tliey could not with them. Away from their bit and harness, these jurists of all-domi- nating rules and statutes were like that blindly wan- dering wisdom which looks one way and walks another, and when asked a question, and no hooks are at hand, nil illcif, or like Ignaro, foster-father of Argoglia, answers "I cannot tell." And they were riglit. Simple and ignorant judges of simple differences between ignorant men, the sini- ]>lost and most direct method was the best for them. All the while, be it remembered, these uncouth jurists were in [)raetical sagacity no whit behind their more intellectually cultured brethren of the woolsack. It was a broad unfolding in the evolutioi. of jurispru- dence, that such an element as that which infested the foothills from 1848 to I80G sliould be so easily and so thoroughly kept in order by their own regulations, carried out by men chosen from among their own number, and with little aid from statutory enactments. As in religion so in jurisprudence, meaningless forms are beccnning obsolete, and substance is the tliir.;- considered. Much superfluous tackling has alread,- fallen from court proceedings, and there is more which might profitably be stripped from them; that tlio well-aj)pointed library of an attorney in fair practice must number its volumes by tens of tliousands, and that rulings and decisions nmst be compiled from those who sat and judged thirty or three liundnd FORMS AND IRECEDENTS. 587 years ago, suggests a further advancement in this (lircctiou. What we want is less precedent ; in rcHgion less of Patristic dogmas, and in law less reverting* to the past for the solution of questions which, if we have availed ourselves of our advantages we should understand better than our forefathers. Knowledge, either in law or elsewhere, is not alone a looking back, but an eternity of inquiry roncerning not only what has been but what is and sliall be. When we can no more conceive of a bound- {Mv to knowledge than we can conceive of a boundary to space, it is not wise in us to revivify by all our powers dead or dying formulas; for if such a course does not lead to the nihilism of Georgius of Leontini, there is at all events but little progress in it. This some (^fcoruius after all is not altonethor wron<jc in his iittirmation that nothing is, or if it bo that it cannot bo known. Our knowlcd«je comes from nothing and ends in nothing. "Philosophy begins in wonder," f^ays IMuto, " for Iris is the child of Thaumas." Nature-worship is tlie mythoh)gy of science, and the myths of Greece reduced to system in tlie writings of llesiod and Homer enfolded the germ of all that followed. The i)ursuit of knowledge is a journey from the sublime to the ridiculous. Tlie end of knowledge is to plunge us yet deeper in the gulf of ignorance. The progress of religion is from the mighty and majestic gods of Homer to the buffoons burlesqued by Lurian; from the deities of savagism, moving clouds, speaking thunder, smiling sunshine and soft kissing breezes, tlirougli monotheism and Christianity to the infidelity generated by seien( e. Science in its turn on every side soon strikes tlie un- knowable, and throws back the inquirer after ultimate truth upon something akin to nihiHsm. In the progress of literature, as elsewhere, we see the same ])rin('iple manifest. In its earliest stages it assumes the form of epic or lyric poetry, of tragedy and his- toric narrative — the bloody and the real ; later, with 588 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND CJURT SCENES. a higher intellectuality, we have comedy and romance — the contemplative and ideal. Now the day is coming when law shall find wisdom in less learning; when from the mountains of ancient and accunmlative legal lore, as from thg Cretan labyrinth for the imprisonment of the Minotaurs, the thread of simple justice shall be followed until the searcher for the direct path shall be brought out into the clear light of open day. Then it will be manifest to all that between the natural rights of man as arrived at by the gold-diggers,' and right as proclaimed by the law and tauglit by tribunals, the difference is less real than pretended ; that the justice of the miners, like their gold, though it liad not the statutory stamp upon it was none the less pure metal. Mucli truth is treasured up in proverbs and legal maxims, and yet what oceans of absurdities are swal- lowed when codified under the fornmlas of truth ! There are few of them but would fit mankind as well reversed, that is, if made to say cxac\.ly the op}>(;site of what they do say. I have often followed as a pas- time this reversing of maxims, and the effect some- times is marvelous. What matchless subtlety of thought do we find in words thus broutjht out, such as. An honest god the noblest work t)f man. Policy is the best honesty, and a host of others; while for tht multitude of such dess meanmgiess expressions as Live each day as though it were your last," we find by al- lowing the mind to dwell upon it for a moment that not the thinor said was meant at all, but somethinu eke. No one could make a greater mistake than by following literally such injunctions. Bnt thry are not intended to be taken literally; all that isnuaiit is to live well every day. Then would it not be better to say so, and not to elevate into a maxim, and innnor- talize in the name of golden truth, brazen absurdity. Better the sage remark of the crank, Don Quixote, "Everyone is like everybody else, only a great deal worse societ sions Thi and n man, ^ logical court I)rotec It is Wiiere Nveapoi btjen ei gradua Duri nocessii lower c side of , bing ju ^.lake o posing formity honest, otiier ol Any on( years of leadintr variably sliootincr f )r drawi tlie law those wh class was ^vhy wa« tliose ma shelter tl the confl] from one and socia LAW AND ORDER. worse"; or that of any onr of tlie several classes in society, each of which has a series of formal ex[)re8- sions containing little or no meaning. Thus we sec there is much in forms and precedents and maxims which, if blotted from the memory of man, would leave the course of justice more clear and logical. There is nmch cumbersome machinery in court procedure which retards rather than assists in j)rotecting the innocent and punishing the guilty. It is undoubtedly true that too often in our courts, where reason and sound argument should be the only weapons, coarse expletives and pliysical violence have \Kien employed, but happily the logic of brute force is gradually becoming unfashionable. During the time when vigilance committees were a necessity, it is a most significant fact that besides tlie l;)wer class of evil-minded persons marshalled on tiie side of law and order were all licentious judges, stab- bing jurists, duelling editors, and fighting lawyers. }<Iake out lists of the individual members of the op- posing factions and you will find with singular uni- formity one composed of persons quietly disposed, honest, industrious, intelligent, and virtuous, and the other of quarrelsome, irate, waspish work-despisers. Any one who will go carefully over the first seven years of the annals of the state, as recorded by the leading writers of the time, will find it almost in- variably the case, that those officials prominent in shooting-scrapes, those lawyers fined most frequently f)r drawing deadly weapons in courts, those limbs of the law who of all otiiers oftenest broke tlie law, those whom only the law was made to punish— this class was usually loudest in support of law. And why was this ? Briefly, for two reasons. First, these manipulators of the law could tlie more easily slielter their misdeeds under the law ; and secondly, the conflict, on one side at least, had degenerated from one for principle to one politically, sectionall}', and socially partisan. Some were made to govern, 600 COURTS OF JU.TICE AND COURT SCKNES. otliors to 1)0 governed, was the doctrine held by law and order. In a f(^w instances, before the year 1850 liad expired, justices of the peace and judges had been impeached and driven from their seats by the people. But com- pared with those who at this time were accustomed, eitlier openly or in secret, to take illegal fees, to ex- tort, ac( ept bribes, or otherwise violate their oath of oftice, the number punished was insignificant. The money-makers had no time to chastise their criminals, to say nothing of judges. True, there was the short, quick way, tlie only practicable way in ordinary cases; but then they did not exactly like to hang judges, "as it might be ag'in law, like," though tliey often tlireatencd to do so. In tlie first nmnber of the Califomua Star, published nt Yerba Buona January 9, 1847, are the following pertinent remarks on the custom of smoking in court: ''Among the many good rules adopted by our late al- calde, and broken by the present one — not to nieiition the hio'h-handed violation of the dearest ritjhts of freemen, a refusal of trial by jury, of which hereafter —is that of smoking in the court-room, and this, too, practised almost solely by the judge and his clerk, wlio are more than half their time puffing forth clouds of smoke from their 'long nines,' greatly to the an- noyance of persons having business in court, particu- larly those not in tlie habit of smoking. Besides, I would ask, does it look very dignified for a judge to be delivering a decision in an important case with a cigar in his mouth, stopping every half minute in his address to give a pufi' or two?" The following scene in court, which happened at Ran Francisco in February 1848, is but one of a class. Two individuals met in a liquor saloon, drank, quar- relled, fought. One received a stab in the breast. The other was arrested by a posse of citizens, and taken AN INTIMIDATED JUDOE. BOl before the magistrate, who, after an examination, liinted of quarters in the ealaboose. The oatha with wliieh the prisoner interhirded liis speeeli may bo omitted witlumt h)S8. Prisoner (to tlie judge). ''This is a bailable case, sir, and you can't put me thar." Magistrate. "It is n«)t a bailable case, sir, and — " Prisoner (interrupting). "I know its a bailable case; I am somethinij: of a lawyer if I am dressed in l)U(ks)\in. You can't put mo in the calaboose, sir." jSIagistrate. " Stop, sir, stop, you will have to go to prison if — " l^iisoner. "I go to prison? No, sir! and you can't put me thar I" ^Magistrate. "Yes, sir. We'll seel" I'risoner. "We'll seel and if you go to put me in tliat thar calaboose you can't live in tlils place. Yes, sir, I know you, you are a rascal, and you — " Magistrate. " Be silent sir 1 Will you hear me?" Prisoner (in high fever). " Yes, sir, I'll hear vou: vou are no gentleman 1 You can't put me hi that prison; \ou are a villain. Don't you dare to put me in that jirison. I never was in prison yet, and if you put me tliar and want to live you had better leave this place 1" The judge, who was scarcely fit for the emergency, not relishing the aspect of affairs, would have kept the prisoner confined without sending him to jail had not the citizens and mendiers of that town council interfered and compelled him to do so. Early in 1849 there was a man of somewhat intel- ](>rtual aspect, fair address, free and easy manner, and that shrewd, practical instinct which in those days passed current for its full worth, who stood about the streets in San Francisco selling peanuts. Although tlie person was greatly superior to his calling, he seemed by no means ashamed of it. Before he came to California he was — nobody knew what. No one knew or cared to know who any person was before he came III r ■;:<; 'l ,!■■ ■ if 502 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. hither. It was enough now to be of California; a now exiHte ICC dutecl from the lanUhig at the whurf in fcJan Francisco. This peanut-sollc>r may have be' n a doctor, jud«jfo, drayman, or printer btf)re cominj^ hero; now ho was a business citizen of Cahfornia's embryo metropohs, His business was a good one; nay more, it was lari;e and profitable. There was no such thing at a small business in those days; scarcely such a thing as an unpr>)fitable business. One might lose by fire or 8peculati:)n, but every well-managed legitimate buwl- noss w.is very remunerative. Even peanuts paid. At a dollar a cup-full when one roasted them one's self, and passed them out lively, one could easily afford to dress fairly and board at a five-dollar-a-day hotel as our friend did. The i)earmt-merchant made many friends. He seemed as nmch at homo in the best society as in the worst; he was well informed upon all the leading topics of the day, read the news from all parts of the world on the arrival of every steamer, and was .it home in conversation equally with the lawyer, me- chanic, or petty politician. It seemed never to occur to him, it scarcely seemed to occur to others, that there was anythir.g about his calling low or humiliat- ing. Ho had come to California, as had all the rest, to make money; and like a wise man he engaged in that which oflered the most flatteriiig inducements. Yanderbilt himself could not have found a more lucrative occupation with so siuall an outlay and ri^^k. But the peanut poddler was n (t without his quid ambition. His traffic had taken him many times a day to the little court-house cpposite the plaza, and he was upon the most easy terms with the alcalde, clerk, and constable, besides the lawyers and hangers- on about the place. Being a man of intelligent ob- servation, he had noticed how the increasing business crowded upon the ancient and yet unawakened mag- istrate of Spanisli associations, and that although the THE PEANUT SELLER. quality of the justice there administered was none of tlio best, it usually coniman led a ^imd price. An idea struck hiui. He would start a court and he a judj^e himself He believed he C(»uld make a hotter thing of it than of peanuts. He would do it. But how? Easy enough. He knew tlie ring- loaders of the Hounds; knew intimately Sam Roberts, St John, and many more of them. He had treated them to peanuts fifty times, ai\d had often talked with thorn by the hour about politics, raids, gold-mines, and tJie expulsion of the Chilenos. Then there were his lawyer friends, his court friends, and a host of others; and as he had saved a little money, the tlung was not hard to do ; and it was done. Indeed the business of young San Francisco had so incroased, and was still so rapidly growing, that tlie organization of another court, superior to tliat of tlie alcalde, seemed a necessity; and backed by his political friends, the peanut merchant with no great difficulty prevailed upon the governor to authorize liiin to establish such a tribunal. The peanut peddler was now William B. Almond, Esquire, judge of the court of First Instance, with civil jurisdiction in cases involving sums exceeding Olio hundred dollars. His court was held in a little slianty, called the old school-house, situated (m the soutliWost comer of the plaza, on the Clay strtxjt side, near the Monumental engine-house, while the alcalde still remained at his old quarters near the southeast corner of Washington and Kearny streets fronting the plaza. Tlie 12th of December, 1849, saw Judge Almond's court open and ready for business. Salary was a tiling unknown at that time among court officials. Judges, sheriffs, clerks, constables, all drew coinpensa- ti(»ii for their services in fees, generally fixed by tlioiiiselves. Running a court was a speculation, like running a hotel, or a store ; it was conducted to make money, and was valued at what it would pay. To Cal. Int. Poc. 88 B ii ! tm Hi COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCEXES. make its decisions valid certain elections or appoint- ments were necessary, and these were obtained as the exigencies of the times seemed to require. It was not until several years later that all the municipal of- ficers were put upon a salary basis ; nor until the offi- ces of sheriff, tax-collector, and ihe like were esti- mated as worth to the occupant forty thousand dol- lars per annum. These tempting baits were the source of great evils, both in the manner of obtaining office, and in the execution of its duties. Behold now the mercantile grub transformed to winged justice. All hail to the rising sun I Money and merriment were the prominent characteristics of this tribunal. As a matter of course the mill nmst gnnd steadily, and with tolerable fairness ; otherwife the institution would acquire an evil reputation, which, like a gambling-shop famous for its cheating, would repel litigants, and with them their dollars. Tliere was no harm, however, in having it thoroughly under- stood that ui this court time was money. Tliis was no less a desirable feature with suitors than with the judges; those were busy days, and no one wished to wrangle long over a few hundred dollars, when prob- ably they could make twice the amount during the same time by attending to their legitimate business. Money was the burden of Judge Almond's sittings ; no cnminal cases were allowed. Ounces were the sharp-edged Al Sirat which should bridge the infeli- cities of law to the heaven of rest beyond. Seated sidewise by the comer of a table, exposing a profile view of a sharp-featured decisive face, grown somewhat stern by reason of its owner's elevation, and thin, perhaps from care and new responsibility; seated in tlie favorite American posture, balancing lii^^ tipped-back chair with feet planted against the wall higlier than his head, paring his finger-nails, which seemed to grow according to the volume of busin<\ss presented before the court, Judge Almond was pre- pared to listen to all who should come to him. And JUDGE ALMOND'S COURT. 5d5 when case after case was called, iniperturbably ho sat, like Olympian Jove weighing in the balance the fates of Greek and Trojan, with no change of occupation, nor shiftings of position — only from his mouth shot thunderbolts of judgment, short, sharp and decisive. In front of the table were usually three or four clerks and reporters, back of whom were litigants, lawyers, and witnesses, while a crowd of spectatora and hangers-on filled the remainder of the room. The nuisance of a jury was seldom tolerated in this court. Decisions were reached partly by evidence and partly by intuition. The judge did what was right, as Soph- ocles said of --lEschylus, without knowing it. Sel- dom did he hear a case throuiih, but wlien lie thouijht he fairly comprehended it, he directed the clerk to enter judgment and call another case; and often tlieso summary proceedings would continue until nine or ten o'clock at night. Now it must not be inferred from all this that jus- tice was not administered in this court, or that it was more uncertain here than elsewhere, or that it was more uncertain under tlie free and informal rulings of Almond, the quondam peanut-seller, than it would have been had Mansfield, or Marshall, or Stepliens, or Story been seated in his place. In balancing the short, sharp encounters of busy men undergoing new and abnormal exi)orience3, their learning vvoukl have hampered them like superfluous equipment, while tlie clear, free judgment of Ahnond directed his finger hnmodiately to the root o** a difficulty, whicii miglit 1)0 then eradicated witl) )ut the aid of precedent. All tlieir skilled intelligence would be employed in fitting experience to forms, while he had only the tiling itself to deal with. Almond determined the causes brought before him quickly, courageously, righteously, liude, uncouth, illitero*. w far as law learning went, there was a directness about him that suited the tenq)er of the time. Everybody drank in those days; at lo.i.st all ■ ';!! ' "t':iW m -< m COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. who wished could do so, as I have said, without los- ing caste. Almond saw nothing hampering t(j the wheels of justice in his drinking, provided he did not drink too much, or alone; if he drank at all, he would do so openly, before all the world. Yet he was no soi faineant in his rulings; it was generally the opinion among Californians of that day that forms of law were rather a curse than a blessing, at least to tliis special community. Moreover, he was equal to the emergency. What he was before he sold peanuts, as I observed, nobody knew, except that he was not a lawyer and had never studied law. But he had somewhere gained experi- ence, had learned to know men and the right and wrong of things, judging from a natural and common- sense standpoint. Says John Morlcy, writing of George III., "There is nothing more fatal, either in private life or in the larger affairs of state, than for an incompetent man to grasp a principle of action that is too big for him." Herein lies the secret of success ill any walk in life. Almond grasped the running of a law court as completely as he had grasped the pea- nut occupation. He was by no means an admirable character, yet he was for that emergency a good judge. He was as full of oaths as Charles Lamb was of puns, and his blasphemy was not of the most refined qualit}'. It is well to note how such a person could place him- self in such a position among the intelligent people of California and maintain it, still holding their respect. Yet he was an honest man, and judged equitably between men who were in no humor to be trifiod with. Had such not been his character and repu- tation, the frame school-house would not long have been Judge Almond's courtroom. The judge was coarse rather than otherwise in his tastes. He used to delight in worrying the poor and pompous attorneys, and after bringing them to grief to laugh at their chagrin. To their displays of elo- quence he was profoundly iuditferent; their legal knowh only vi and to (men I niony I and his One ing jud: of a shi during 1 s(3nger, the vail sented, t, to tell \« sible. 1 ''tiier wi evidence plain si I tliorougl "Verv tainly he case?" "That "and wo Ji warded c'ase." In a m occurxod liavo \rM ;■ i>u e ;-'.s r ♦ 'luitably law, coulc Half the. iiig the d services, a Frank "e this 'ved 1 SUMMARY PROCEEDINGS. 607 knowledge was wholly thrown away on him ; those only who, with homely logic, spoke plainly, briefly, and to the point might hope to move him with words. Often before the first witness had concluded his testi- mony his quick discei'nment had reached an opinion, and his mind once made up, nothing could shake it. One day a physician appeared before the court ask- ing judgment for five hundred dollars from the captain of a ship for attending such of the crew as were sick during the voyage. The dtx;tor had shipped as pas- senger, and the demand was widely at variance with the value of his services. The case was briefly pre- sented, and a witness called whom the judge instructed to tell what he knew about it in as few words as pos- sll)le. This done, the plaintiff's attorney called an- other witness, but the judge informed him that further evidence was unnecessary. The witness had told a ])lain simple story, the court understood the case thoroughly, and its mind was made up. "Very well," said the counsel, "but you will cer- tainly hear us speak as to the points of law in the case ? " " That would be entirely useless," replied the judge, "and wo have no time to waste. The plaintitt" is awarded one hundred and fifty dollars ; call the next case." In a mf)re pretentious court this case would have orcup",d one, two, or three days, and might easily hai'o IrMn postponed from time to time so as to con- s;ii e ;« nany weeks or rionths. Half an hour suf- ficed Jii 'jje .Mmond to dispose of it as fairly and cijuitabiy c^s? anyone, however learned or skilled in the law, could have done in six weeks or six months. Half the award went to the plaintiff^s attorney, leav- iii,i( the doctor, even at that rate, well paid for his services, and there was an end of it. Frank Turk on a certain cxncasion having business 1>< *" "e this court, with profound respect on entering i< . 'vod his hat, a broad-brimmed, pointed-crown, 698 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. Guy Fawkes affair, and laid it carefully on the floor three or four yards from the judge's feet. Wrapped ill meditation upon the intricacies of the case before him, and following his usual practice, his honor un- consciously made Turk's hat a mark for his tobac<'c tainted ejections. A head-dress of that kind and quality was worth two or three ounces, and Turk was particularly proud of his hat, as well as sensitive as to its treatment He sought to catch the judge's eye, coughed, moved his hat as he thought beyond the reach of danger, moved it twice, thrice ; but ever the somnambulic eye of the judge followed it, and ever with unerr j ?i*m the discharge from his mouth did iilthy execui. Turk could endure it no longer. Boiling with iiiuignation he stepped up to the judge, shook his fist in his face, and fairly yelled his curses. This demonstration and the roar which followed awoke the judge to a realizing sense of things, and he laughed with the rest. It was a dry business listening to dry cases, and spurting tobacco-juice at a mark across the room by the hour, and the judge was not the man to sit and suffer through the day. He was now a groat man; but great men grow thirsty. All great men in California at that time were th'^sty men. In- deed thirst was a mark of greatness, and the more thirsty a judge the more was he esteemed fit for tie position. There was nothing at all strange then tLat Judge Almond should pause occasionally in his pro- ceedings to quench his thirst. And this was done witli characteristic openness, though not in defiance of any sense of public propriety. There were always those about the court, accuser and accused, counsel, jury- men witnesses, ready to drink as often as the judge desired, especially if some beside themselves paid for it. Hence there were no decisions emanating from that bench which met with greater generrl approval than when the judge paused in the midst of a case, and raising himself to his full height announced, A THIRSTY COURT. 800 " The court's dry ; the court's adjourned ; let's take a drhik 1" Whether or not this might be called a court of original jurisdiction, it was certainly a court of origi- nal rulings. The witness who asked to be excused from giving bail for his appearance when required was answered: "Yes, on payment of the customary fee of one ounce." If an attorney wished to make a mo- tion the judge replied, " The motion is granted on payment of the fee, one ounce." Either side could have a case postponed on payment of one ounce ; or if both parties to the suit requested it, then each m ist pay into court an ounce of gold-dust. Sometimes the judge's table wouivl be half covered with gold-dust, and Judge Almond's ounce became a byword. It was by a sort of argument urn ad ujnoraiitiam that the judge arrived at this decision. Himself ignorantof the fixcts, if the order asked for by a responsible attorney was not proper his adversary would quickly appear and ask to have it cancelled; and then the ounces 1 Never was there a court in California where injunctions could be so easily obtained or so quickly set aside. It caimot be denied that Judge Almond, between haste and an eye to the main chance, sometimes strained his opinions to meet emergencies. During the winter of 1849 a Sacramento river boatman at the mouth of Suisun bay picked up a dismantled launch and brouijht it to San Francisco. There be- ing on board of it eight or ten bales of goods the boatman claimed salvage, which the owner of the goods deemed exorbitant and refused to pay. The case came up before Judge Almond, who after one of liis usual quick and careful hearings awarded the boatman $100 for his trouble; but learning before judgment was entered that the boatman's coun- sel fee and court costs amounted to $200, he raised die judgment to that amount. The owner still re- fusing to pay, the goods were sold, and being dam- aged brought only $150, whereupon a caiii and horse ¥ 000 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. belonging to the owner of the goods were sold to make up the remainder. Here was a case where even the machinery of Judge Almond's court proved sufficient to defeat the ends of justice; for the boat- man who saved the goods got nothing, while the owner was compelled to pay more than their value for the saving of them. With John W. Geary as alcalde in 1850, and a city charter and two boards of aldermen, a grand jury was in order in the pretentious town of San Fran- cisco. Very respectable men were selected, and pro- ceedingrs were conducted in staid New England man- uer. Particularly was the oath administered de- voutlj' and solemnly, every witness being required to kiss the book with reverential demeanor. Frivolity and blasphemy had disgraced our tribunals long enough, thought the new city's pro tempore masters. A healthful example should now be set. Their delib- erations over, the jury were about to be called into court to receive their discharge, when unluckily one of their number, cursed with evil curiosity, picked up the book upon which all had been so furiously swear- ing, and opened it when, O mores I it was Tupper's Proverbial Philosophy. Now to let it be known that they, a genuine Yankee jury, anti-chivalry, anti-slav- ery, anti-law-and-order, anti-swearers and tobacco- chewers, men of clean white shirts and consciences, Sunday-school men, decent in all things, men of mark on Battery and Front streets, men who never in- dulged in any drink stronger than hard cider, and if they ever drove out at all it was always with one horse to four persons — that these prim puritans' sons should so far demean themselves, their ante- cedents and their surroundings, as to mistake the sickly sentimentalism of the maledict Martin for the new testament, was pitiful to contemplate. Had it been only a Webster's Spelling Book there would not attach to it so foul a disgrace, but Martin TUPPER OR THE NEW TESTAMENT. 601 Tapper's rhymes — ^the error could never be for- given. What should be done ? All their proceedings, so far as the virtue of book in the administering of oaths was concerned, were of course invalid. If the book was essential to the sound administration of law, they had signally failed in using, in place of the sacred scriptures a volume of maudlin verses ; if the book is not essential, then why add to the nmltitude of idle forms by which justice is hampered ? The free and easy tribunals of audacious rulings connnitted no such stupid blunders as this. A long and solemn silence followed this discovery, as the men of merchandise gazed one upon another in blank chagrin. Finally an intelligent juror of very respectable wealth opened his mouth and slowly articulated, half soliloquizing: — "I would not like wittingly to do such a thing ; my busi- ness needs my attention ; we cannot well go over these days of arduous labors ; an oath in the eyes of the Almighty is equally binding, perhaps, whether the swearer's hand rests on a Tupper or on a Paul, so long as the man himself does not know it; the sacred- ness of forms should be sustained and the etiquette of courts preserved ; I think on the whole we had better say nothing of this to the judge. If we keep the secret to ourselves the oath is just as binding and the law just as good as if the swearing had been done up- on a veritable bible ; though it staggers me somewhat to think to what use unlearned and ungodly jurists might put this train of argument." So it was agreed and so done. The jury went into court ; Alcalde Geary complimented them after the usual fashion for the faithful performance of their duties, a|X)logized for his inability to pay their fees owing to the con- spicuous emptiness of the city treasury, and discharged them. When the Jenny Lind theatre was metamorphosed into a city hall there was quite a reform instituted in 602 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. courtroom manners, coarse jesting, profane swearing, and smoking were no longer permissible. An Irish excursionist, on entering one of the rooms newly fitted up for the district court, saw twelve pine sticks placed in a row in front of the jurors' seats. Prompted by curiosity he asked an attendant their significance and use, and was informed that they were called desk-pro- tectors, and that it was made part of his duty to pro- vide whittling timber for the gentlemen of the jury. It was said that McGowan, before coming to Cali- fornia, was sentenced to the state prison of Pennsyl- vania for the robbery of the Chester bank, and that he was afterward pardoned by the governor on condi- tion that he would leave the state. The fact is. Nod forfeited his bail and was never pardoned. Many criminals, however, have been set at liberty on these conditions, which course is assuredly wrong on the part of any community or nation except under extra- ordinary circumstances. The only plea, on the part of a judge or a ruler, for adopting such a course is that in another country a criminal may reform and live a virtuous life. But no matter how the penitent may promise this is seldom the result. Far oftener happens it that the pardoned, sent from a society which knows and watches him, to one where he is unknown and consequently may with greater safety commit new villainies, enters upon a career of wicked- ness wider than ever. Having served an apprentice- ship and become skilled in crime in one place, he is offered the most tempting facilities for profiting by liis past experience, and for gaining the confidence of a new community, where he may practise his profession with the fullest success. A bad man, entering one state from another, may rightly be sent back to tlie place in which his wickedness was bred ; but to turn him unwhipt upon the world is about as righteous as to turn into your neighbor's vineyard the fox caught in your own because you dislike to kill it. If any count inals the n own I that 1 prim i reprol their i We seat II chanofc nia coi friend Doubt] though man. wicked Solomo One had a c landed Horn, their jo; was ner as mucli The pas and ask case for passengf his seat, a bull-d( owner ol laid his s upon th€ large rec turned seated hi The h seen that JUDGE NED McOOWAN. 608 country ever possessed the right to drive out its crim- inals instead of punishhig them, it was California, for the ruffians that infested her shores were not of lier own breeding. They had come from older countries that had no right to uncage them ; from communities prim and puritanical, that regarded with pharisaical reprobation the land upon which they had emptied their prison-pens. Well, Ned came to Cahfomia, and coolly took his seat upon the judicial bench. Quite an agreeable change from a Pennsylvania penitentiary to a Califor- nia court ; as marked a change as was that of his friend Casey, from Sing Singing to supervisoring. Doubtless, now that he was justice of the peace, he thought he was a better man, a reformed, a very good man. The wicked poor he punished roundly ; the wicked rich he made pay him handsomely. Could Solomon have dealt out justice more wisely? One day an attorney who had known him of old had a case in his court. The lawyer had but lately landed from a long and tedious passage round Cape Horn. Some of his fellow-passengers had manifested their joy at landing a little too loudly. Ned's party was nervous in those days and abhorred noise almost as much as hght. Besides, there was money in it. The passengers were arrested for disorderly conduct, and asked their friend the lawyer to conduct their case for them. At the hour appointed for trial the passengers' attorney entered the court-room and took his seat. The judge had not yet arrived. Presently a bull-doggish face emerged from a side door, the owner of which stepped upon the judge's platform, laid his sword cane and deeply craped white "plug" upon the desk before him, took from his pocket a large red handkerchief and blew loudly his short up- turned nose, and with pugilistic grace and dignity seated himself upon the bench. The lawyer looked and was bewildered " I have seen that face before," he thought. "Can it be? Surely tn: ^li 1\ 604 COURTS OP JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. I am not mistaken." Unable to restrain himself fur- ther he arose to his feet. "Is it Edward McGowan I have the honor of ad- dressing i " blandly asked the attorney. *' That's my name," said Ned, running his fingers through his well-oiled hair. The attorney was satisfied. His course was clear. Turning to his clients he said : " Gentlemen, you have no use for me. You may as well come down heavy with the coin first as last ; it is your only chance." Among other court notices in the San Francisco Evening Picayune of the 20th of August, 1850, appears the following : " Justice McGowan's court. An in- teresting case came ofl* this morning, interesting be- cause several interesting young ladies appeared as witnesses. Thomas Jackson claimed $200 for wages as barkeeper against Eliza Crothers and her husband, Owen Crothers, and presented as evidence in his be- half Miss Maloney and Miss Margaret Waring, two young ladies of rare attractions and fashionable ap- parel. The judge, of course, could do nothing less than render a verdict in favor of the plaintiff." Throughout the whole vigilance excitement of 1856 the courts were treated with profound respect by the committee except in the few instances where they interfered with the performance of the line of duty marked out by the committee. Not so the criminals, in whose estimation courts of justice seemed to have sunk into contempt. On the 28th of May, one John Brown, whose impudence was equalled only by his egotism, was called from the mayor's dock. " Who are you ? " demanded the mayor. "A son of a sea cook," was the reply. " What is your name ? " " I am a sea-lawyer. I shipped before the mast as a matter of form, but practised law in the forecastle all the voyage." " Was your court recognized by the captain ? " HUGH. C. MURRAY. 605 "Yes, about as much as yours is by the people." ** Beware, sir. What have you to say for yourself? " ** I deny the jurisdiction of the court," exclaimed the prisoner, "to try the case, on the ground that this court has no legal existence, the people having taken the authority into their own hands. I am prepared to argue the question if I be permitted." "Have you no other defence?" "Yes, I am a friend of Bill Lewis and Billy Mulli- gan," said the prisoner. "Why, the man is mad!" exclaimed the mayor; "I will send you before the county judge to try the ques- tion of your sanity." "You will find I am not crazy." "Silence, sirl" thundered the mayor. "Officer, take him away." Probably the most notorious of all our supreme judges was Hugh C. Murray, a man utterly abandoned iu character, immoral, venal, and thoroughly corrupt. Even in those days of unblushing laxity lie was prominent for impudent indecorum. Among gamblers he was always at home, and could deal faro with tlie best of them ; of drinking saloons he was a constant habitue, having long scores at all the first- class bar-rooms of Sacramento and San Francisco, for liu seldom paid for his drinks, or for anything else which could be obtahied upon credit. Shoulder- strikers were his friends, lewd women his companions; he was a Californian Caligula, with his adherent poli- ticians, gladiators, and courtesans. As supreme judge, the profits were surer than ill dealing monte. To anyone having a suit which sliould be brought before him, he did not hesitate de- liliorately to become indebted, neither side ever ex- pocting payment. Though wearing a bland and l^olished exterior, inwardly he was as stumpy, mis- shapen, and graceless as a Scandinavian troll. And what made it the worse for the country was that ^\ m 6M COURTS OP JUSTTCE AND COmiT SCENES. from his decisions there was no appeal — only from Hugh Murray drunk to Hugh Murray sober We say that he was so self-adaptive to circuinstanct s as to quickly become a Californian ; but of a truth such men were California ; they were one with the land, and sea, and sky of the California flush times ; it was they, with other elements inter- mingled, who made the country what it was, and without all of which California would not have been California. Murray was of the chivalrous school, genial, gentle- manly, with a host of friends, and many admirers. Like the epicurean Atticus, he was elegant in his tastes and easy in his morals; selfish he was, as most of us arc, but he was of the self-indulgent type ratht r than that which fosters unkindness or indifference to others. He was a very able judge, and even when bought by one side, he could render a most plausible opinion. Like some others of his class, he carried with him a superstition which he called his honor, which led him into eccentricities past the comprehen- sion of ordinary minds. For example, though he would gladly sell an opinion, he objected to giving the transaction that name, and the money must not be paid to him direct. Then again, after a debauch, ho was particular about paying the gambler, but cared little for the claims of the liquor and cigar-sollor, while the tailor and launder he would not insult by the offer of money. This disgraceful honor of his compelled him to pay the man who took from him Ms money giving him notliing in return, while to him who of his substance clothes and feeds him he mav, if it pleases him, give nothing. But when honor compels a person who has received an injury to invite the one who gave it to shoot him, we must not expc( t to understand all its subtle ways, for undoubtedly tlic honor these gentlemen are so careful to humor must be a thing of importance. A man of repartee was this chivalrous upright judge was n "M deal () know "Tl ray, " to stu< upon I before fit of], Suiti f<>r a fa utmost tlie thj would But if J Wlioljy social (j keep a J>rove:it o:i the ( inari.st.K often pi do and a sides. Justic like eve greatly c quiet iiil uioniuni. "lill, sev( Were ope the walls others sta met and this traflS JUDICIAL COMPLAISAXCE. 607 judge. When candidate for the supreme bench, he was met one day by Brannan. "Murray," said Sam, "you must have a «lcviliah deal of impudence to run for that office ; what do you know about law?" "That's just what's the matter, Sam," replied Mur- ray, "I don't know nmch about it, and I am too lazy to study. If I am elected, knowledge will llow in upon mo spontaneously. Every lawyer who comes before mo will be a teacher, and I will reap the bene- fit of Ilia studies unworn by midnight vigils." Suits involving large amounts, where both sides bid for a ftvvorable decision, called forth Judge Murray's utmost skill in legal legerdemain. It was scarcely tlie thhig to take a bribe on both sides; honor would not permit it ; with honor lost,, all is lost. But if a litigant should make the judge n present wholly on account of his genial company and fine social qualities, or should the judge be asked to keep a sum of money until called for, would this l»roveiit an honorable judge from receiving a bribe 0:1 the other side? Such were the points the early nui'ifistrates were obliged to decide, and wliich very often proved a severe strain upon tlieir learning to do and at the same time to satisfy and conciliate both sides. Justice at Sutter's fort during the autumn of 1848, •1 ■ « • ■ • • • • like everything m that vicinity at that time, was greatly demoralized. Gold was the cause of it. The quiet hills and sleepy canons suddenly became pande- monium. Soon after the discovery of gold at Sutter's mill, several stores f )r the sale of general merchandise were opened at the fort. Some of these were within the walls, occupying the angles of the enclosure, and others standing without. Merchants and miners there met and exchanged their commodities ; and as round this traffic, like thirsty flocks about a spring, strag- 6Q8 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. glers began to settle, two alcaldes were chosen, a first and a second, following the Mexican fashion. Among the storekeepers of the place was one Pickett, afterward surnamed "the philosopher," so that Philosopher Pickett, which, indeed, is but another name for Fool Pickett, became famous throughout California. Now Pickett unfortunately shot a man dead in self-defense ; and Pickett must be tried for it. It was the duty of Bates, first alcalde, to place the homicide under arrest. But Pickett was a man of pronounced proclivities; and to handle hiiu roughly was regarded a little dangerous. Bates promptly resigned office. The second alcalde, Fowler, was then urged to perform the same duty, and he also resigned. Sam Brannan, the man of emergencies, and one who feared neither philosopher nor fool, was then the chief merchant of the place, his store bemg in an adobe building east of the fort. Brannan called a meeting of the people to consider the matter. This was before the days of popular action jure divino, when to punish informally was infinitely worse than not to punish at all ; hence it was thought necessary to hold an election for the purpose of filling the vacancies caused by the resignation of the trembling officials. One alcalde, however, was deemed sufficient, and Brannan was chosen for the position. A prosecuting attorney was likewise required, but no one seemed to relish the office, as each person nominated immediately declined and proposed another. Finally Brannan was obliged to accept that office also. A sheriff was then elected, the offender arrested, a jury empanelled, and the trial begun. On being brought into court, which was held in a room on the western side of the fort, Pickett was requested to lay his arms on the table, which he did. On the same table stood a plentiful supply of brandy and a pitcher of water, of which judge, jury, prisoner, and spectators partx)ok at pleas- ure during the trial ; the brandy, from its rapid dis- EASY DECISION. 609 appearance, being evidently more to their taste than the water. Then the question seriously arose whether in a criminal court, where a man was on trial for his life, smoking was proper. Appetite presses a strong argument; precedent was found in the California women who smoked at bull-fights, executions, and funerals, and if ladies indulged in the practice, tobacco could not be out of place anywhere. The trial proceeded; equity in its broadest forms alone was sought, but still there must be the form. At length the judge rose and began a plea for the prosecution. "Hold on, Brannan," said Pickett, you are the judge. ** I know it," Brannan replied, "and I am prosecut- ing attorney too." Brannan the pleader then addressed Brannan the judge in conjunction with the jury; after which Pickett arose, tossed oft' a glass of brandy, and made a telling speech, for he was an able man. As soon as it was over, the night being well advanced, tlie jury scattered, more intent on finding their beds than a verdict. Then the question arose " What shall be done with the prisoner? "Place him in confine- ment," said the judge. " There is no prison," replied tlie sheriff. "Put him in irons." "Got none," said the officer of the law. Making a virtue of necessity tlie judge then called the ayes and noes, whether the prisoner should be admitted to bail. The ayes had it. The prisoner took from the table his revolver and bowie-knife, and marched off. Next day the jury wore drunmied together, held a conference, and dis- agreed. A new trial was ordered and the prisoner ac(juitted. In the spring of 1849 an election was held for muuifipal officers in the town of Stockton. First and second alcaldes were wanted, a;id George Belt and James C. L. Wadsworth were elected. After the Cal. Int. Poc. 89 l» 010 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. election the boys voted themselves a banquet. A champagne supper was ordered and the electors made a night of it. In the morning the bill, amounting to $2,500, was divided equally between the newly elected alcaldes, and sent to them. Each paid his share, $1,250, without a murmur. Being unable to obtain a bible in the town, Mr Wadsworth says he used to swear witnesses on an old memorandum book. Horse-thieves were the most numerous class of offenders brought before him. Let him who holds in low esteem youthful justice as manifest in the popular tribunals of the mining- camps, and in the alcalde courts of the larger towns, during the flush times of California, read the follow- ing and then despise not the day of small things. Stephen J. Field, subsequently upon the supremo benches both of the state and of the United States, was in the rough year of 1850 alcalde of the roaring town of Marysville, so called from one Mary, a woman out of whom the seven devils were not cast. Field's first bench was somewhat ruder than his last one ; and there was more difference still in the buildings which held the respective courtrooms. Indeed one of his first cases came up while walking the street ; nor was this the first peripatetic trial or open air court held in California. A well-known citizen riding a horse which he had just purchased was met by another citizen who claimed the animal as his own. Field passing by and hearing the dispute stopped. Naturally enough both nun agreed at once to leave the matter for decision to tiieir newly elected justice of the peace. Swearing the disputants where they stood, he heard the story of each, and decided in favor of the walking claimant, to whom the horse was immediately delivered. The judge's fee, an ounce, was cheerfully paid ; and after adjourning for a brief space to an adjacent saloon, the crowd which had gradually collected during the trial POLITICAL Self-abnegation. 611 dispersed apparently well satisfied with their young alcalde. The following story was told of W. T. Barbour once judge of the district court at Marysville. After- ward he was candidate for the legislature, and on election day was about the polls watching his inter- ests. An unlettered umd-plastered voter, who knew neither his alphabet nor the candidates for legislative honors, approached Judge Barbour with a Douglas ticket and requested him to read it. " With pleasure," said the judge, and he began to read, "for president, Stephen A. Douglas, for vice- president, Herschel V. Johnson." "All right," said his unlearned friend, "go on." So he read over the names of the electors. Again, "all right, go on." "For senator, C. E. De Long." "Yes, go on." " For assembly, W. T. Barbour." "Hold on, there; strike him off." Barbour turned toward the man an eye of suspicion to see if he was being played upon, but notli'mg sig- nificant of sarcasm was apparent in the voter's features. "Why, friend," said the judge, "what have you against him ? " "I don't like him." " Do you know him?" inquired the judge. "No, but I have heard of him, and that's enough. Strike him off; I don't think he ought to be elected to tliat place." The judge touched the point of his pencil to his tongue, then slowly drew it over his own name. "Whose will you have in Barbour's place?" now inquired the judge. " Let me see ; you may put in Magruder." "Well, I'm sure," said the judge, "Barbour is as good a man as Magruder, but have your own way; you are entitled to vote for whom you please. But, ill, I 612> COURTS OF JUSnCE AND COURT SCENES. my friend, I know Barbour, and somebody has been, slandering him to you." So saying, and without waiting for a reply, he wrote down the name of Lloyd Magruder to take the place of hiy own, and read on down the ticket, name bv name, but not another of them did his imlearned friend order scratched. The man then deposited his vote. The judge was beaten. They used to do similar things in Ireland, if we may believe Curran, who gives the following exami- nation of a witness : "Did you vote at the election?" "I did, sir." "Are you a freeholder?" "I'm not, sir." "Did you take the freeholder's oath?" "I did, sir." " Who did you vote for?" " Mr Bowles Daly, sir." "Were you bribed?" '* I was, sir." " How much did you get ? " " Five guineas, sir." "What did jrou do with it?" "I spintit, sir." "You may go down." "I will, sir. '^ Few places could boast of courts with speedier juris- diction than Folsom and vicinity. By one justice a man was sentenced to be hanged within ten days, without benefit of clergy. By another, before whom three miners were brought for obstructing the high- way, time was refused for sending for counsel ; ci»ii- tinuance of the case was next refused ; then the court objected to both jury and witnesses ; finally the men were tried at midnight, found guilty, and imprisoncu. Next day they were brought before the district judge upon a writ of Jiabeas corjmSf and discharged. ORDEAL BY CRIBBAGE. 613 In the matter of a change of venue in a certian case which came before the district judge of the sixteenth judicial district in 1852, the defendant's attorney wished it to be sent to El Dorado county, while the district attorney chose Amador. Preferring the law- yers should settle it, and knowing that both prided themselves on their skill at cribbage, the judge sug- gested that they shouid retire to an adjoining room, and peg twice round the board. The lawyers agreed. After an absence of some twenty minutes they re- turned. "Well, gentlemen," said the judge "have you agreed to what court your case shall be sent ? " " May it please your honor," replied the defendant's attorney, " you may send it to El Dorado." " By how much ? " asked the judge. " Two points," was the reply. In the minds of men accustomed to see punishment follow quickly their deliberations, there was no little difficulty experienced in segregating wholly practical results from theoretical forms. In the alcalde's court at San Diego, in 1849, a negro was tried for killing ail Indian, before a jury composed principall}' of Americans. They found the prisoner guilty of man- slaughter. Aware that their duties terminated at this point, and knowing that they had not the power according to law to pronounce punishment, 3^et, as there was no other tribunal at hand to sentence the offender, they appended to their verdict the penalty of one hundred lashes and one year's work with ball and chain. The miners of the Stanislaus, not wishing to be behind other localities in assuming the forma of civi- Hzation, elected one of their number, their best man, justice of the peace. It happened soon after the es- tablishment of this tribunal that a travelling attorney, carrying about more bluster and bowie-knives than 614 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. common sense, in a case before the court laid down the law ill such a nianner as to call in question the ability of the unlearned judge to deal fair justice. The judge retorted in terms neither mild nor refined. The lawyer then declared that the judge took advan- tage of his position to insult him, and that if he would walk ten steps from the sacred precincts of the court he would give him a sound beating. Whereat the judge laughed inwardly, for of such was his strong suit, as he termed it; and rising immediately from his bench, and wringing the lawyer's nose by way of stimulant, as he passed out he punished the attorney until the latter was glad to go back and con- tinue the case. And never again did that lawyer impeach the integrity or ability of a Stanislaus judge. The alcalde of Badger hill was unwell ; yet justice was healthful in his hands, and never slept. He had been elected by the miners and boarded at the Cherokee house. The court-room was wherever ho happened to be. If working his claim, the nearest log or stump afforded a judicial bench ; and an}- case which happened to come before him was disposed of with a disregard of forms and precedents worthy of Solomon. He to whom the wronged of Badger hill looked for redress was an invalid. He sat up in his bunk to hear the case, while round his head was tied a red bandana. Green was the culprit ; a large powerful man, and as cowardly as he was strong. He had borrowed forty dollars of little Shortey, borrowed it in the dead of winter when he lacked a pinch of gold- dust with which to buy a loaf of bread ; and though he had a good claim, and was now taking out quanti- ties of thr 'ollow metal, he would not pay it. All the muscles in Shortey 's body ached to angrily embrai e the lubberly ingrate ; but since the miners of Bad^tr hill had a judge of their own creation, it was no longer deemed exactly the thing to ignore his ofiice and MIGHT AND RIGHT. 615 settle disputes, as formerly, by single combat. Time was when the right of fisticuff was the privilege of all; revolver and bowie-knife the common law of the land, to which he who would might virtuously appeal; but since justice was made incarnate at Badger hill, the miners had tacitly agreed that thenceforth muscle and steel should be subordinated to mind. They could trust the alcalde fully ; for he was a man after their own heart, who had " fit his fought " as often and as successfully as the best of them. It was a cold rainy night, but in and round the sleeping-room of the Cherokee house were over two hundred miners assembled ; men with long beard and tangled hair, patched pants, rimless hats, and toeless boots, for they scented fun if not blood. The plain- tiff submitted his evidence ; the defendant had little to say. " Proved clar enough," decided the judge. " Shortey must have his money and this yer court her fees, and if yer won't fork over calm-like," turning to Green, " I'll send them inter yer camp what '11 take it" " May it please your honor," exclaimed Shortey, "It ain't his dust I want; only let me whale him and I'll forgive the debt and pay the costs besides." Thereupon Shortey " sailed in under kiver of the law," as the alcalde classically expresses it in his minutes. Green squared himself, trusting his bold front might be preserved to him by the sanctity of the place. The bystanders rushed in to prevent what tlie future historian of Badger hill might call a dis- graceful scene. Meanwhile the judge jerked from his head the bandana, and springing from his bunk stood in short white robes between the crowd and the contestants. " Gentlemen, stand back ! " he cried. " Ef the parties to this yer action wish to effect a compromise, let 'em do it." Green was then so soundly pummelled by the ac- <16 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. tive and energetic little prosecutor, that he was soon glad to buy escape by paying the claim and all the costs. When men first began to steal along the happy foothills, the delving innocents regarded the matter lightly, often flippantly. A case is cited in which a man was taken before the justice at Downieville in 1850 for stealing a pair of boots. The justice was keeper of a saloon. The culprit was found guilty and adjudged first to restore the stolen property and then by way of fine to treat the crowd. The court and all present adjourned to the bar of the saloon to drink and joke at the criminal's expense. Ridicule is often a severer scourge than stripes. Regardless of the reckoning, and of the convict's ability to pay, drink after drink was called on and poured down the throats of the jovial assemblage until all, including judge, jury, and executioner became more engrossed in the pleasing pastimes than in watching the prisoner, who, taking advantage of the opportunity, slipped out, packed his little property and was soon over the hills and out of sight. The chagrin of the justice may be imagined, w^ho, when his bar-keeper summed up the bill for payment, found that his fine had been inflicted upon his own pocket. High in the foothills, on the south Yuba, during the saturnian summer of 1850, stood a tented gold- field glorying in the name of Washington ; glorying in its laxity and looseness, in its unincorporated social sentiment and dishevelled morals, in its free and easy justice and its alcalde of original rulings, and in its general indifference to Christian customs and institu- tions. Until recently the miners of this locality had revelled under the rule of an unhallowed theocracy, but eighteen hundred and fifty's fourth '^f July hav- ing just passed with the adoption of a name, which of itself should be sufficient for the maintenance of good THE MAN AND THE PLACE. 617 citizenship, it was determined that an alcalde should be chuseii and civilization inaugurated. Nor was choosing a magistrate regarded by them as a matter of little moment. He who should minis- ter to them in judicial things must be learned in their whimsicalities; he should be equitable at the horse- race and wrestling-match, honest in his dealings at poker, and withal of muscular powers sufficient to enforce the mandates of the court. Above all he must be a man of character and respectability, one who could treat the crowd easily and often, and wholly free from the effects of those stultifying studies orighiating in Sunday-schools and week-day lessons. Now a stranger might think that in so small a com- munity it would be difficult to find embodied in one person all the necessary attributes. But such was not the case. There was George Kelsey ; if you had a thousand to select from, you could not find a better man. First, his great round tent, standing in the business centre, cool and pleasant by day and well lighted at night, would serve splendidly as a courJ;- liouse. True, the clarion note of justice might some- times be drowned by the clinking of coin and the rattling of glasses; for in this greatest of buildings was conducted the greatest of businesses, the dealing o*^ cards and the dispensing of drinks. But then, with cards and drink law would fit well, and as already the place was a dispensary of no mean pretensions, to medicines for mind and purse add one for conduct much needed, indeed, and Kelsey's law, drinking, and gambling saloon becomes an institution of which even tlie young ambitious town of Washington might well be proud. It was understood at the beginning that there should be no taxes connected with the erection of the municipality, and to find judge, courthouse, business, and refreshments all combined was ceitainly a fine thing. As for character, George Kelsey could match 618 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. Caesar's wife. He stood six feet two in his shoes, and was broad and strong in proportion. His head was large ; he was thick-lipped, snub-nosed, and corpulent as Socrates, and though his features were coarse and without much show of intellectuality, he had limbs and sinews like an emigrant's ox, so that what he lacked in mind he made up in muscle. When in the absence of the dealer he would sometimes seat himself at the nionte table, his friends flocked round to win his money without fear of imperfect pack or waxed cards. Moreover, George possessed a coat, a relic of former days, and on extraordinary occasions he ap- peared in a white shirt. There was no fitter man for magistrate in all those parts than George Kelsey. The principal business before a justice's court held in any of the towns along the Sierra drainage at this time was the settlement of disputes concerning min- ing claims. Thieving, highway robbery, and delib- erate murder had not yet assumed the rank proportion of a year later, and such cases as did come up, the miners preferred to deal with summarily themselves. There was something stimulating, somewiing resolute and audacious in thus dealing single-handed with the monster crime which well accorded with their humor. Peace was a commodity little coveted, so that bowie- knife encounters and pistolings were left to take their own course, while in free fights the alcalde was morcs disposed to stand by and maintain fairness than to interpose his staff of office to prevent them. Among other difficulties encountered by George Kelsey in assuming the somewhat hazardous position of arbiter between the diggers of Washington camp was that general indifference to court rulings and de- cisions common in the early history of Californian jurisprudence. If at any time during the progress of a case either party to the suit fancied his chances bet- ter without than within the pale of law, there was no hesitancy on his part to drop proceedings, walk out t)f courtroom, and throw himself upon the miners, or FULL-COATED JUSTICK 419 fight it out with guns and pistols. Such a case oc- curred within the classic walls of the round tent shortly after its proprietor had assumed the responsi- bilities of office. Timothy Loker brought suit against Amber John —one of the positive and usually popular characters of the camp, so styled from the peculiar color of his somewhat wrinkled skin — for extending his claim up the side of the ravine beyond the limits allowed by the regulations, so as to include part of a spot staked off by one of Loker's men, for the nmtual benefit of himself and his employer. The case came up during the quiet hours of the afternoon while the miners were yet at work, and the town indulging in a semi-siesta preparatory to its noc- turnal awakening. Behind a monte-table in the now well-nigh deserted tent sat the judge, ermined in the only coat the camp could boast, with the litigants be- fore him. It was evident from the beginning that Amber John was angry, and on his metal. Miners' justice was good enough for him. In five minutee the crowd at work out in the ravine could determine the right and wrong of it without all this round-tent clap-trap, and if that decision did not suit, they had only to fight it out. He didn't believe in courts ; they were useless, and a nuisance, but for once he would try it and see how it worked. First of all he demanded that Loker should give security for costs of suit. If he wanted law, he would give him law; besides, he didn't believe any white man would go bail for the onery cuss. Loker, how- ever, easily and cheerfully procured the required se- curity, clinchipg the character of his bondsman as he laid the paper on the table by quietly adding, " who is well known to bo in the round-tent interest." It was now the defendant's turn to go through the same process aiid file his security, but when this was demanded o.' him he declined, coolly remarking that 620 COURTS OP JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. he never had intended to pay any costs or iudgment, or to abide the court's decision, but should lay lils cause before the miners in mass meeting. Thereupon the plaintiff withdrew his suit, swearing that he had had enough of such nonsense, and avowing his purpose to settle upon the claim and defend it with his rifle. To tliis proposition the defendant heartily acquiesced, addinj' that, after all, the only way to settle differences amicably was to burn powder over them. Besides being the honorable and gentlemanly way, it was the only method which left no unpleasant feelings to stir up subsequent strife. All which the judge marked with eyes and ears attentive; marked in dignified and meditative silence, with thought sluggish at the first, but gradually re- volving, and with accelerated swiftness, until from the unwonted friction there rose to the eyes electric fire, and a red deeper and more indignant than that of rum suftused the face. How long should these things be ? How long should the blind goddess of the round tent be insulted by the vile rabble ? How long should appeals begun in prayer abruptly terminate in blas- phemy? George Kelsey, alcalde or no alcalde — that was the next case to be tried in the round-tent, a case in which the arm of the law should appear in corporeal visitation. Slowly rising, he stepped from behind the table and laid aside his coat. Insignia of office seemed suf- f(x;ating just then. While bundled in dignity he was less a man than when facing upon common ground those who had elevated him out of himself. Calling to the absconding litigants, he said, "Tim Loker, John, a word before you go. I question no man's right to carry his quarrel to any mill he thinks will grind it best; but once set in motion, the wheel of round-tent justice stops only at the master's bidding. You have honored me by elevation to office; you have honored me by bringing here your cause ; now I purpose to give you, Amber John, a sound thrash- a litigai iiig b tlioy MINER'S ARGUMENT. G21 ing, for you liavo Insulted mo. Then under the sub- duing influence of a loaded revolver which will be placed upon the table, I shall proceed to try and de- termine this suit, after which v^o will call honors easy. Gentlemen, this is the first time since you elected me alcalde that my honor has been called in question. To my family in Missouri I am ai;countable for my conduct as a man, and to the miners who elected me for my conduct as a magistrate. I am abig man with a big heart; that is why they elected mo alt aide, be- cause I am a man big enough to execute the sentence 1)rocecding from a big heart. I am no trirkster; I Lnow no law but common law, and that of the com- monest kind ; but as long as I am alcalde, I propose to deal out that quality of justice that suits me, and if it don't suit you, then select anothei' man." At this juncture in answer to tlio judge's nod spirits appeared upon the table; mollifying spirits, whose presence seemed to soften the asperities of the litigants, but now bristling in bowie-knives and breath- ing bullets. ** Go on judge," they both exclaimed, as *;l;'y drew near and poured each for himself a liberal potation. The case was continued without the pun- ishment promised by tlie judge, whose words had answered in the place of blows ; and it is needless to say that the decision was in favor of the plaintiff who, as well as his surety, was "well known to be in the round tent interest." Far below anything in quality that obtained along the mining belt in forty-nine or fifty is tliat disgrace- ful union of gin and justice occasionally found in later times. It was a very different matter, the early trial held in a saloon with the proprietor acting as judge, and the thing as sometimes seen to-day. Then sak)on- koeping was a respectable occupation ; now it is not. Then the best citizens frequented those places ; now they do not. Respectability springs from conformity to the moral ideal of society, whether that ideal be right or wrong ; and so does intrinsic worth, for virtue loves 622 COURTS OP JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. recognition. The gambler of 1849, other attributes being equal, was not so immoral a man as the gambler of 1889. I find nowhere in the early records of jurisprudence on the coast anji;hing which strikes me as so utterly humiliating to lovers of judicial decency, or which brings law into such low abasement, as a signboard which as late as 1877 disgraced the intelligence of the good citizens of Vallejo. Upon it was inscribed the words "C. W. Riley, Dealer in Imported Wines and Liquors, and Choice Cigars; also Justice of the Peace." Law and liquor ; happy union I Let not their former association be confounded with the later one. Tlie interpretation of this sign-board of One-eyed Rile}', as ho was called, may be given in these words : American politics seek the low haunts of vice rather tlian the more retired paths of virtue. There is something radically wrong in the system which places the administration of justice in the hands that mix poisonous drinks for their fellows; that place the political power of a community at the disposal of the class that frequents and patronizes drink ing-saloons. In this instance the bar of justice and the bar cf vile potations occupied adjoining rooms, communicat- ing by a door which offered easy access one to the other. As to the workings of this mongrel institution I offer a single illustration, which should be sufficient to incite the intelligent and enterprising citizens i)f Vallejo to a healthy reform. It happened one night during the early part of the year before mentioned, that two officers belonging to a Russian war vessel then lying m the stream off Mare island had spent the evening ashore, and about eleven o'clock set out to return to their ship. Arrived at the wharf, they hailed a boat to take them oft"; and while waiting its appearance they were attacked afid knocked senseless with a slungshot by a ruffian named HoUis Rand, BELLICOSE COURT OFFICIALS. e» who thereupon proceeded to rob them, but was frightened from his purpose by a police officer, Mc- Donald, brought to the spot by their cries. Hand made his escape; but was captured next morning and brought before One-eyed Riley. It appears that the robber and the judicial drink-seller were friends hav- ing business relations, the former being a tenant of the latter, who, besides, was in arrears about $100 for rent. Rand was liberated on his own recognizance by Riley, and when the case came up for examina- tien it was dismissed with little formality. In June 1850 a fracas occurred among the judges at Marysville, in which contemptuous words, fines, and arrests were freely bandied, and weapons drawn by dignitaries seated on their bench in open court. Then the crowd without took the matter up, marched from the house of one belligerent justice to that of another, midst cheers and groans and the firing of pistols. Finally the mob dispersed, the excitement died away and nobody was hurt. It was not an unconnnon occurrence for attorneys and officers of the court durin*' a trial to fall into disputes, become heated, pass the lie back and forth, and draw pistols. I know of one instance which occurred in the recorder's court at Sacramento as late as May 1856, in which a quarrel between the defend- ant's counsel and a testifying police officer tlireatoncd to involve the whole court-room in a fight. Peace being at length restored, the judge fined the attorney, who liad given the policeman the lie direct, ij^lOO for contempt of court; l)ut an apology from the oflcndcr, in which the court was assured that the w<»rds were spoken in the heat of the moment, and with no in- tended indignity to the court, brought a speedy remission of the fine. I The Laura D. Fair trial is interesting in its psy- 624 COURTS OP JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. chological aspect rather than in a professional way. Laura coveted money, but she coveted men more; she could love a little, but she could hate stronger; she could be insane somewhat, but her lunacy, whicli was of the emotional kind, was always subservient to her sense. If to see her lover kiss his wife madci l:tr a lunatic, wit waited on revenge to the instantaneous accomplishment of that which lay nearest her litjart. With rare skill Laura gave in her testimony at tl.e trial. It was very clear she was not insane then. It was very plain that she was not a lunatic innncdiately before and after the deed. She did not wish it under- stood that she was beside herself but for the moment, and like a mind lost in a mist of ever-increasing density, so was her giving of evidence, clear and vivid at a little distance from the deed, both before and after, but gradually growing indistinct, until at the moment of the murder all was opaque blackness. Her memory at that point was a blank. Hovering about the fatal moment were mingled facts and fan- cies hurrying hither and thither like imps of dark- ness, until she could not tell what was real and what imaginary. They were beyond her description, be- yond her knowledge. A soul dropped by the mes- senger-angel upon a dark and angry ocean was not more lost to itself than was she at the time. Laura manifested no less ability in the escape than in the killing. Some of the scenes in court were quite characteristic. " I am sure he was the only friend I had in the world," she exclaimed on one occasitm from the wit- ness-box. " I would not have harmed him for a hun- dred worlds. Had he been living, gentlemen, when Mr Campbell insulted me the other day, he would have made Mr Campbell on his bended knees apt)lo- gizo for it." There were present certain sympathizing women of strong-minded proclivities, who took occa- sion at this juncture to applaud, such being deemeil by them one of their denied rights. SOME LADY ENTHUSIASTS. 023 " Silence 1 " cried the judge, his face reddening for the unblushing females. " Officer, bring forward any who applauded." The officer after some search re- ported his inability to find such a one. Then spoke Laura : "Judge, it was all my fault." ■ " Madam," said the judge, turning sharply upon lier, " speak only in answer to such questions as are put to you. You are not blamed for the disturbance." Well, judge," replied Laura, ** human nature could not stand it." Emily Pitt Stevens was now pointed oat as one who applauded. "Did you applaud ?" demanded the judge of her. " Judt'e, I was not aware that I could not applaud in court, ' replied Emily. " Did you applaud ? ' cried the judge. " I said * good.' " " What is your name ? " " Emily Pitt Stevens." •* You applauded in court, did you ? " " I said ' good ' and I put my hand down on the desk so." " Did you make any noise ? " " I made no noise with my feet." " Did you with your hands ? " "Withmy hantlsl did." " You are fined twentv-five dollars." " I will pay it," cried Laura. " Thank you," smiled Emily. Another of the sisterhood, Mrs Booth, was then accused. " I did not applaud," said she. "You did," answered her accuser. " Judge," exclaimed tlie female rising and address- ing the bench, " I was not aware that I could not applaud." *' What is your name | » " Mrs Booth." "Did you applaud?" Cal. Ikt. Poc. 40 I 02G COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. "I stamped my foot, I was not aware that it was against the rules." " Enter a fine of twenty-five dollars," said the juJge to the clerk. "I will pay it," put in Laura again. " Thank v<^u," said good Mrs Booth. " You will have to draw heavily on your purse if you pay the fines of all of them," remarked the judge to Laura. " I do not think, your honor, that these ladies un- derstood the rules of the court," said l^ura. "Well, they understand them now," replied the judge. A gay demoiselle of Pacific street, prosecuting in the recorder's court a lover, who one night while she was slcepiiig off the fumes of champagne rose from her side, rifled hor room of its valuables and departed, was asked by the judge to state the particulars of the case, who slie was and where she lived. Turning toward him with an arch smile, Angelina replied, " Ah I judge, you know all about it 1 " Uncle Zeke was elected justice of the peace at Nevada city in 1852, and when called upon to taki; the oath of office it was for the first time ascertained that his name was Ezokiol Dougherty. A man arrested for horse-stealing was once brought before him and jmt upon trial. Evidence was strong against t!ie prisoner, it being fully proved that he was a bad cliaracter. The prosecution rested, and the prisoner's counsel called a witness. " I don't see what you want of witnesses," said Uncle Zeke. " May it please your honor," replied the attorney, " the object of the testimony which I now propose to offer is to prove the general good character of the accused." "What in hell is tie use of trying to prove his PHARISAICAL EVASION". 627 good character when he is already proved to be a thief? " roared the judcfe. "Your honor, notwithstanding the one-sided evi- dence, the tlieft is not proved ; moreover it is a pre- sumption of law that a man is nniocent until he is proved guilty." "Yes, my friend," concluded Uncle Zeke, "and there is another presumption of law, and that is that a justice of the peace is not bottomed with cast-iron. You may go on with your speech if you like, but I am going for my bitters right now." Cerruti tells the story of a scene which occurred in a justice's court at Sonoma while he was there engaged in writing from General Vallcjo's dictation. A Jew shop-keeper, at the instigation of his com- petitors, was arrested for violating the Sunday law, which decreed that all places of business in California should be closed on the sabbath. The offender was fined ten dollars, which materially reduced that Sun- day's profit. Thus forced to do reverence, the Jew thought he might as well keep his own sabbath as the Christian's, and so secure a better day for traffic liere, and tlie seed of Abraham's reward hereafter. So the next week he sacredly regarded Saturday, and kept open shop as usual on Sunday. Arrested Monday morning, he was asked why he had transgressed the law a second time. " I have broken no law," he declared ; " I kept Sat- urday, which 18 the Jewish sabbath." "Sir," said the judge, "do you propose to transplant JcTusidem to California? Clerk, enter a fine against the prisoner of twenty-five dollars." Often in early times, as we have seen, justice and juleps were administered by the same hand; some- times the storekeeper or the postmaster would add to his regular occupation the duties of alcalde. At Agua Frio we find in 1852 an unsuccessful miner metamor- i I 628 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. pliosed at one turn of the moon into doctor both of medicine and law. He did not hesitate even to accept the office of justice ; but he found it quite impossible to know all that was contained in books about the rendering of judgments. An important case was once before him in which one of the attorneys cited a decision of Justice Story, and opening the book began to read it, when the judge impatiently exclaimed : " Mr Wade, Judge Story was undoubtedly good au- thority in his day, but he won't do for this court.'* This same medico-jurist owed a certain mechanic for work. Repeated dunnings proving of no avail, the man finally threatened to bring suit against the judge. As it happened, there was another hall of i'ustice not far from Agua Frio, into which if our un- earned friend should fall lie knew it would go hard with him, for the mechanic's claim was a just one. I^Ieeting the man one day, the judge drew him aside and insinuated in a friendly though dignified manner, that if he must bring suit it would be better for botli sides that it should be done in his own court, thus saving useless trouble and expense. After some hesi- tation the man consented, made out his bill, $97 50, and handed it to the justice for collection. The suit then underwent all the forms usual in such cases ; the justice issued sunnnons against himself, acknowledged service, and fixed the day of trial. At the appointed h»)ur the mechanic appeared in court. "As I shall not dispute your bill, I see no necessity for calling a jury," remarked the judge. " I agree with you," replied the mechanic. " Then we will proceed at once to the examination of the case," said the judge. "Let me see, your hill is for $97 50. I admit the claim ; you did the work well, and earned the money ; I am perfectly satisfied. My bill against you is just $100." " Your bill against me ! What do you mean ?" " My bill for medical attendance ; doubtless you have forgotten it; it was for that pulmonary attack, A GENERAL I'RACTITIONER. es» you know; it has boon standing for some time. I should have sent it in sooner, I know ; I am very negligent in money matters, but I do not like to in- convenience my patients." "I remember, some seven or eight months ago, when sufl'ering with a ccld, you advised me — " "That is sufficient," broke in the judge. "You acknowledge the service. For that advice my charge is $100; in serious cases I never take less, I shall liave to enter judgment against you for two dollars and fifty cents and costs, twelve dollars — it would have been forty if taken to the other court — payable immediately, as it is a rule of court for all judgments to be settled at once." There was no help for the mechanic but to pay the money. John C. Murphy one day innocently borrowed without permission a horse belonging to William (Jordon, a stronix-minded matjjlstrate of Yolo countv. Hearing of it, the justice sent the ccmstable after jMurphy, who was brought before Gordon, tried, con- victed, and sentenced to be handed that afternoon. The magistrate was in earnest ; and it was with the utmost difficulty, and only by appealing to his sense of fairness, and to his reputation as a magistrate in criminating a man where the judge was prosecutor, that delay was gained. Finally the case was referred to another court, and the prisoner discharged, greatly to the disijust of (iordon who immediatelv resjoiu'd office, affirming he would no longer be judge where he could not administer justice. In the days when women were scarce and justic e easy, Thomas A. Springer, magistrate near Ueorge- town. El Doratlo county, divorced a wife one after- noon, and married her to a new husband the same evening. 880 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COUllT SCENES. Ill the spring of 1849 a Biiiall band known as the Texan company started for the southern mines. Among the members was one Richard C. Barry, who had obtained the title of major during the Mexican war, where he commanded a company of Texan rangers. Attracted by stories of the marvellous richness of the Tuolumne diggings, Major Barry and his party went to what is now known as Sonora. Emigration increased rapidly, and it became neces- sary that there should be a town organization, and Major Barry was chosen one of the justices of the peace. The position was one that gratified his pride, and filled the measure of his ambition ; he required his orders to be implicity obeyed, and the great dignity of his position to be respected. Justice Barry was a stout, red-faced man, of medium height, with an air of great resolution. His literary and legal attain- ments may be determined from the record of his rulings taken verbatim et liberatim from his docket, which consisted of loose s raps of paper carried about in his hat and pockets. His intrepidity and integrity of character elevated him to an office where courage and resolution were often demanded. His court was omnipotent, and if disrespect was shown it a fine of from ten dollars to twenty ounces was imposed In his processes, forms, and ruHng, he displayed ajustessr de V esprit truly charming, as the following transcripts from his docket show. Begin with case numbered 101. " In a caze where one James Knowlton brings sute again joss Sancliis fer felonously, and surreptiously, taking, stealing, and robbing the said James Knowlton, late of San Fran- cisco. One buckskin purs or sack of gold-dust of tlic value of $4,000. " After heering the evidence projuced in the case, I demand of Jose Sanchis whether he was going to plead guilty or not. Jose answered me thus, you find out. For which insolent, and abominable con- tempt of court I find him 3 ounces, and adjudged him BARRY, OF TUOLUMNE. «!. guilty. I sentenced him to restore tlio goold dust to tlio Court, and, to receive well lade on 40 lashes on liis bare back, and to pay the Costs of the Court. *' Cost of Court 5 ounces which Jose not having I rooled that James Knowlton should pay. Deducted tlie amount and returned the balance to the owner James Knowlton. July 9, 1851. RICH'D C. BARRY, J. P. U. H. Brown, Constable." "In caze" number 51G the "Costs of coort" seems to be the idea momentarily ruling the judsjfe's mind. " This is a sute for nmle steehng, in which Jesus Ra- mirez is indited for steeling one black marc nmle, branded O with a 5 in it, from Sheriff Work. George swaros the nmle m question is hisn, and I beleeve so, too; on hearing the caze, I found Jesus Ramirez gilty t)f, felonously and against the law made and provided and the dignity of the people of Sonora, steelifi' the aforesade mare mule, sentenced him to pay the cost of court, $10, and fined him $100 more asaterrourto all evil-dooers. Jesus Ramirez not having any munny to pay with, I rooled that George Work should pay the costs of coort as well as the fine, and hi default of payment that the said one mare nmle be sold by the constable, John Luney, or other officers of the court, to meet the expenses of the costs of coort, as also the payment of the fine aforesaid. "R. C. BARRY, J. P. "Sonora, Aug. 21, 1851. "Joi.w Luney, Constable. *'N. B. Barber, the lawyer for George Work, in- solently told me there were no law for me too rool so. I told him I didn't care a damn for his book law, that I was the law myself. He continued to jaw back. I told him to shet up, but he wouldn't; I fined him $50, and committed him to goal 5 days for cf)ntempt of court in bringing my roolings and dississions into dis- roputableness and as a warning to unrooly persons not to contradict this court." hi 632 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. Case 606 displays a little difference between the judge and certain attorneys: "This was a sute be- tween two ganiboleers. E. Krohe the ganiboleer who sooed Sam Heed the ganiboleer to recover 3,000 dolers won at ceards. After much swarin one way and another the lawyers, H. P. Barber and Leander Quint, argooed the caze, which after a long time they got through with. I discided that Barber was right, whereupon Quint said please your honor I never can get justice in your coort; putting out his finger and thumb, i told him the likes of him in my country often lost their fingers stealing com or chickens, and that if i had anything to say he never shood have justice here. I ordered him to hold his tung and shet up when he went out of coort he began to grum- ble again ; i ordered John Luney the constable to ar- rest him and bring him into coort before me, which he done, and I then fined him $25 for contempt of court. "Costs of court $100, which was paid. "R C. BARRY, J. P. "Sonora, September 10, 1851. "Constable." Case 997 seems from the following summons to have been one of a class not infrequent in those days, which is judged first and tried afterward : ucjj. i. e r* A'c • \ To the Sh'ff or "btate ot Calitorma, f /-« i. ui r ^ , m 1 > any Constable ot County luolumne. ( c • i •^ ) atoresaid co. " Greeting : "You are commanded to summens Maberry and Street to appear before me at my office on the eight day of November, A. D. 1851, at the hour of 9 o'clock, to answer to complaint filed in the court by D. T. Donnalld, where in he charges them with a nucense by putting a privvy on a lot which they have jumped belonging to pl'ff, as a possesor right he now comes to claim his right as an American citizen by claiming a writ to dispossess them to have restitution according to law, with appropriate demmages for the A LEARNED JUDOE. 68t Imposision now about to be carried out a<^ainat liim by sieh hitjh handed and morcanary arrovvgance on the part of the Accused. "Sonora city, November 5, 1851. "R. C. BARRY, J. P." The duties of coroner devolved upon a justice of the peace. Barry liad a pecuhar mode of recording liis procedures, which is best illustrated by quoting from his writings. No. 3. "George Williams who cutt his throt with a razor October 20, 1850. Having heerd tlie evidense it is evident it is a case of felloday see. Said Williams had no property that I could find out. "Justice fees, $10. "R. C. BARRY." " No 5. T. Newly killed by Fuller who shot him with a gunn, Jaimary 30, 1851, I found no property on the diseased. After trying Fuller and finding him gilty, he was comitted by me, and sentenced by the cort to two years' confinement. He broke jale and run off." " No. 1 6. Inquest on the boddy of a Chileno boy, one of Snow's murderers, hunix bv tlie mob on Dar- gun creek, June 25, 1851. Noboddy seems to no who did it, he deserved to die." A knotty case arose at Calaveras in 1852, which is not settled to this dav. Provender durinjj that winter was very scarce. One night several donkeys, the property of certain well-known citizens, ruminat- ing upon their hungry lot, encountered a ( lothes-line, the only one in those parts which could display among its gray ai«d^ woolen bunting, that blood- tingling sight, a sacred white petticoat. No st)oner had he espied the prize than lifting up Ills voice, the oldest donkey blew loudly his horn, whereat he and his comrades made a general attack. Soon the clothes-line was cleared and the shivering bowels of the nmles were comforted with a coverinjr If HI COURTS OP JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. of divers garments such as men and women use. The question for the Themis of the foothills to settle was whctherthese clotlus. so .safely locked within hairy peripatetic trunks, mi;.(ht he recovered by action of replevin or left to di»(estion. A Chniaman who was asked his opinion replied ''Jackass eaty Melican man shirt, belly good, belly good 1 " An account of a law suit in the mountains given by an eyewitness, pictures the justice seated on a claret-box before a fire in his splitboard shanty fr^'ing a beefsteak for his dinner. The defendant enters. " How are you judge. Isn't it time to begin the trial i This is the fourth time I have come here ; first the plaintiff was not ready with his witness, then your honor was absent, and the third time the plain- tiff's witness did not swear to suit him. Now I think we had better try the case before another jus- tice as I want you for a witness myself." "Await the arrival of the others and we will see," replied the judge, cutting off a piece of the steak and beginning to eat. While thus engaged the plaintiff enters with his attorney. "Well, judge, we are ready; don't want any wit- ness. I'll tell you the story and that will settle the matter. My client owed the defendant fifteen dollars, and was the owner of a horse which he turned over to the defendant with a writing stating that if he did not pay the fifteen dollars within ten days, the de- fendant might sell the horse and pay himself out of the proceeds. The ten days passed and neither tlio money was paid nor the horse sold. Now we tender the money and sue to recover the horse. That's the whole of it ; now take a pen right away and render judgment in favor of the plaintiflf." "The defendant wants me for a witness," said tlio judge, munching his bread and beef-steak, " and there- fore asks to have the case brought before another justice, but I don't think it necessary." A JUDGE AS WITNESS. OSS " No, no," exclaimed the lawyer. "Of course not," echoed his client. "Yes, it Is necestJarv," j»(Tsisted tlie defendant, "and I will have the case tried in anotiior court." "Try it wliore you like, hut we'll fix the Im^iness here now. Don't vou think I can y;ive niv evidence hi this court as well as in another r' demanded tlio judge. Then rising, but without being sworn, he testified what he know of the matter, and resuming his scat witliout another word, he entered in his docket judgment for plahitiflT. "That's right, judge," said the lawyer, who there- upon immediately withdrew. "WhatI" exclahned the victim of these sunnnary proceedings, "render a verdict without a trial i liow can you act as witness, jury, and judge all at the same time? I'll tell vt>u what I will do — " "Do what you danmed please 1" said the judge as he arose from the table, wlju'd ];is mouth with the back of his hand, and started for his mining eluhn. A territorial leixislature and countv officials had just been chosen by tiie people of Wasliington, and Jolm W. Champ, justice of the peace, antl Cliarles W. Denter, constable, opened the first law court evi r held at Showlwater bay, and entered ui)on tlieir first case. All which proceedings the oystermen of this beach regarded with })rofound contempt. Wliat did they want with law ? The country had been ai)le to get along wtll enough without it so far. The peo}>le wc re disposed to be peaceable. All had tiieir own aflairs to attend to; their rights and wrongs were very sim- ple. Each found it pleasantcr to be frientls with all the rest, to have their good opinion and fellowship than their emnity ; if a disturber of the peace dropped ffom so.ne pass'.ng ship, l;e was quietly advised to continue his rambles, and not stop there. If wliisky assumed the soverei<j:ntv, a little fist-fiLjht would 63C COURTS OF JUSTICE AXD COUHT SCENRS. usually heal all feuds, and bring the belligerents to their senses. Law was not wanted at Showlwater bay, but now they had it they must use it. Nobody thougiit of going to court until the court came to th(>m. Clianip was a tall, nmscular Vermonter of sixty-five, wliose inner qualities as microscoped by rye wliisky were cra.«j:sxv ; Biij Charlcv, as Dcntcr was called, was dropped on Showlwater Beach by a Maine whale as too lazy for the service. Two better men fi)r their respective positions could not have been found by searching diligently with a candle; it is a peculiarity of our political system that certain offices arc better filled by manikins than men. The first case was Pub- lic Opinion against Bowman. Bowman was a waif; how he lost himself no one knew. The Beach did not want him. Give him things to watch, and more of theiu would be missing than if left exposed. Mr Ilussell lost a small sum of money by him in tliat way. Before the establishment of a court the man would have been hunted hence, and that would hav<> been the end of it, but law was master now. Besides, the justice wished to try the new machine. Ajiainst Bowman there was neither prosecutor nor proof; but these slight impediments were easily sur- mounted by Champ, who was not hampered by legal knowledge. The united wisdom (»f the Beach produced a pajier which seemed to touch the evil remedially, which was made to take the place of wliat in more exi)erienr((l courts would be a warrant for tlie arrest of Bowman. This was placed in the hands of tlie constable, whoso wholesome fear of the obnoxious straggler, together witli his constitutional aversioti to either mental or muscular exertion, rendered the serving of the war- rant, as it was supposed to be, a serious matter. By one idea alone his mind was filled as lie dragged his slow lind)S through the sand. How should he get th<j man before the judge ? Assuming an indifference ON SHOWLWATER BAY. m which ho was far from feeling, he entered a boatman's hut wliero Bowman happened to be quartered for tlie time, and asked for something to drink. Bowman replied that he had none, of which fact Big Charley was well aware, otherwise the man would not be sober. " Old Champ has just got a demijohn of first-rate whisky," said the constable, "let's go and got some." "That suits me," replied Bowman, whose thirst for tho ardent was unquenchable. A|iproaching tho unfledged hall of justice, they found the squire feeding his chickc ;>.v Seeing his first order thus so promptly obeyed, tlio judge gave a final flinyf to the wetted bran which he was scattorinix to the infinite satisfaction of the poultry, and enter- ing the courtroom with unusual alacrity, took his seat, a crowd was gathering, and within the hour the reputation of the tribunal would be forever fixed. " Order in court 1 " began the judge, with as stern an expression as he could call up on so short a notice. Then turninu to Bowman he beuan : "Well, sir; what have you to say for yourself " " Nothing in particular, judge ; have you any wliisky, here ?" " Whisky 1 exclaimed the judge, somewhat angered by the unhaUowod intimation, "do you take this for a rum-mill, sir ? W^hat have you been doing, hey ; guilty or not guilty ? " " Capital, judg'\" renlied Bowman, with a not alto- gether happy smiie. " You would alwaj^s have 3our little joke ; bui where's that new demijohn of whisky; Tin as dry as a cured salmon." " I'll salmon you for bringing this court into con- tempt," cried the judge, whose irate emotions were iidw running away with his syntax. "Do you know tliatyou are arrested, sir ; that you are on trial, sir?" " No, I did not know it," was the reply. " What is the charge ? " " Charley, you lubber," said the judge addressing the constable, " didn't you show him that paper ? " «., i.J I 638 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. " Of course I did," was the reply. *' That's a lie; I haven't seen any paper." " Order in the court 1 " roared the judge. " Give him that paper, you big lump of whale blubber, and lawfully arrest William Bowman, in the name of the United States." Big Charley handed the paper to Bowman, who opened it and read as follows: "You are hereby commanded to leave the bay within twenty-four hours or receive twentj'-five lashes. And may the Lord have mercy on your soul. John W. Champ, justice of the peace." " This looks more like a viiiilanre notice than a warrant of arrest," said Bowman. " Of what am I accused, and by whom?" "Accused I " exclaimed the judge. "Of everything, and by the whole Beach. You know you stole Mr Russell's money, and that you are a pirate and a red rover." "Who says I stole money; who makes such a charge, and who are the witnesses," said the prisoner, nt)w fairly aroused. " See here. Bowman," replied the judge. " Wo don't want any witnesses in this matter. You know all about it without being told; and as for the cluirge, I bring that myself, and to sjive time I wrote out what vou had to do, and that's the end of it." "Court was then adjourned; Bowman was put upon a vessel for Astoria, and thus terminated tin- first legal trial at Showl water bay. Not long aft(Tward a deserted sailor, callo<:l Bob, was discovered stealing a pair of sJioes from a storr. The oystermen from what they have seen of the new- machinery at Champ's, thought themselves fully as capable as the United States to act in the matter; so without going near the judge they whipped the offender and shipped liim down the coast. The registrar of the United States' land office may ARMED OR UNARMED. 9$ not punish for contempt, hence those bringing cases bofore him may be as belligerent as they please In the case of Ketchum versus the State of California, before Mr Haverstick of Los Angeles, among the attorneys on either side were Mr Gould for plaintitf and R. M. Widney for the defense. Ketchum him- self was on the stand, and Gould was examining him ; both sides indulged freely in invective. "What became of Lachenais ?'" asked Gould of the witness. ** He was hanged by Wldncy and others." Widney rose from his seat, and drawing from his p;)cket a pistol, and holding his hand down, as one draws and holds a handkerchief, thus addressed the witness : "You say I murdered a man, you lie, you perjured villain. I was not present when Lachenais was hanged, and knew nothing about it. If you and your party are armed to a.ssassinate me, as I have been in- formed is your avowed intention, now is your oppor- tunity." " We are not armed," said Mr Gt>uld. "Then I will put away my weapon," replied Wid- ney. "And in continuing the case this afternoon, I wish to have it distinctly understood whether wo come together armed or unarmed." Mr Haverstick ruled that the case was to be con- tinued by unarmed disputants. A case came up in the district court of San Fran- <isco in Sq)tembcr 1852, which shows liow widely separated are justice and the jury hi many suits at law. It illustrates at the same time how impatient of forms and technical restraint is the material ct)mpo8- ing our juries, and how utterly foolish atid fickle are i'.irvmen sometimes, and how farcical are nnnv of our jury trials. Suit was brought by Green 8,'ainat Min- turn for certain improvements on leased land, which iini>ro\oments had been valued by an appraiser at m COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. $4,000. Green had refused to abide by the decision of the appraiser, and so brought tlie suit. The trial ended, tlie jury brought in a verdict of $8,000 for the plaintiff, 8ti[)uiating that no imputation of unfairness sliould lay at the door of the appraiser. The judge told them that the latter clause of their verdict was superfluous, and must be stricken out. The jury again i etired, and in a few minutes brought in a ver- dict f( r the defendant, with some $.')00 costs which the plamtiff must pay, whereat the court and all pres- ent smiled audibly. A Sacramento court-room was the scene of a some- what undignified emeute on the Ifitli of June, 1832, growing out of squatters' troubles, respecting which there were still many sniothered feuds. No sooner was the court adjourned at noon than one McKune, of whom the associate judge, Wilson, had mado some cUsi)araging remarks, stepped forward and demanded an apology. This liis honor refused to make, when McKuno and a friend of his, Caulfit^ld, attacked the judge, and beat him over the head vith a walking- stick. Judge Wilson carried a sword-cane, which lie drew, aiul plunged the steel into the body of his as- sailant. Pistols were then employed ; Caulfield fired once and the judge once. The jail-keeper rusliing between the combatants re»?elved in his body the ball intended for the judge. There was great excitement througliout tlu; city respecting the affair, and much talk of lynching. A prosperous mining district always furnisiied tin- courts an abundanci! of business, and the lawyers t'iit fe(!S. Titles and bounderies to claims were the cliii t' causes of dissension, and if the contestants were able, their advocates had no difficult}'' in making them i)ay well for indulging in the luxury of law. Jos.se Nilt)S, made magistrate of D<jnkeyville by an overwhelmh)g majority of the people, was a long, sin- ewy, h« could rt words, a lils nam hence Ik packed 1 in such ( tice. R 1 -w, and donee, ca It was represent injf comp with trou Farland c I>.iss in \\i Niles, as through 1 gravf.) sati ties appoaj at ojiu (>'(•] "^\\o, fare I '"'•trd, anil dignity of' '■•"d he rea If" was dt f 'r himscJ ^^pcniiW 1 self: "If the j"ctions, '"''ativvhiie slioiddor in tlic Jionora f 'ur,se it di ^"•ir too poll ti"it. tJu; ju I'liiintiir, \vi( *iii'. the (tcf NILES, OP DONKEYVILLE. OH ewy, hard-fisted, and tliuk-licadod ladianian, who could road wiUumt spelling imt any but the longest words, and if you gave him tii>»c enough could write Ills name. His decisions were emhientlv practical; I'.ence lie was eminently popular. Legal lore was not jxicked between the coarse convolutions of his brain in such quantity as to wholly defeat the ends of jus- tice. Rascalitv could not shield itself under cover of \:av, and a sworn alibi, in the face of undoubted evi- dence, carried little weight. It was a great day for Justice Jesse Niles when the representatives of the two largest and wealtliiest min- ing companies of Donkeyville district came into C(»urt with troubled determination in their faces. The IMc- Farland company ( harged the Old Kentuck with tres- ]»ass in having worked over on their ground. Justice Niles, as he fixed the time of trial, ran his fingers through his thick, tangled liair as best he could, witji grave satisfaction. At the appointed hour both })ar- ties a|»peared in court; the jury was empanelled, and »t onv. o'clock all were ready to proceed witli the case. The foreman of the McFarlund rose, stroked lis h"iird, and glanced round the room. The h >nor and dignity of the company had been placed in his hands, and he realized fully the responsibility of the situation. J[" was determined to leave no effort untried to win i'»r liimself laurels, and for liis c(»mp,iny tlieir cause. Opening his mouth, in slow jerks ho delivered him- self; "If the court please, and the defendant has no ob- j'ctions, I propose we adjourn for five minutes," iiieatiwhiie giving his tlaunb a lateral lling from his shoulder in the direction <>f the Diana saloon, of whieli tlie honorable judge was proprietor. As a matter of f'lurso it did please the court, an<l the defiiulant was far too polite to object. After their comforting p«)ta- ti'iu. the jury listeiied to the case, as |)resented by the Iili'-intiif, with marked attention. Too sympatlietic, by tar, the detciidant thought, for the good of his cause, C!al, Int. I'oc. 41. m \ m Aitt COURTS OP JUSTTfE AND COURT SCENES. and as the remedy lay only in the disease, he felt it incumbent on him also to ask an adjournment of five minutes. And these pleasant little compliments were continued by both sides until by eight o'clock there had been no less than twenty adjournments. irnder the circumstances the judge was certainly excusable if in summing up the case to the jury his ideas ai)poared a little confused, and liip tongue some- what tliick. It so happened that one of the twelve, whose fate, he used to say, it always was to be [)lactd upon the jury with eleven fools, and whose leathery brain no measure of the most villainous compound ever sold for drinking purix)ses could saturate,— it happened that this man gave mortal offence to tjie judge by asking in wliat book the law laid down by his honor could be found. Now the judge was particularly sensitive about his metliod of expounding tlie law m Jiis ohargt' to tlit; jury, as we all are sensitive in our vulnerable parts, and the frequent adjournments seemed rather to have increased than to have diminislicd his irritation. In his present state of mind, it seemed to him clear tliat tlie ermine had been insulted, and that tlie imperti- tuftcc Muist l>e resented. With clenclied hands ami cr.ntractcd brow, he fixed his angry eyes upon the juror, •'The book, is it," he exclaimed, "it's the law you want ? " "Y-y-yes," meekly replied the juror. "I asked your lienor where it might be found." "Confound you, sir," roared tlie judge, "I would have you know when I ttdl you a thing is law, its law," and drawing a bowie-knife he made a spring for the offender. The jur}^ broke and ran, the infuriated justice lianl after them, and for a time it was doubtful how this charge of the judge should terminate. At length reaching a hill outside of the canij), the jury scattt ivd and were lost in the darkness, while the judge return- ing to alone, i j'is in a A mi f >r mur Sometii; ported i the prls( the decii Two r pocuniou up to tin sweat for " Wha alrearly," "That' h'! struck as a free your cou We'll swo " Wei thep-'fcti " Voil you after A wa,rr into eour "^uit appro "See )i f'f a fix. piison for •■^"d I ran <«re a free " CJieap iiionev am At the r ^\'!»s enterei J' let by Le LAW AND DUTY. 643 ing to his bench was obliged, in deciding the case alone, to exercise the right of desperate necessity — jiis in cdsu necessitatis, A man in Plumas county, sentenced to be hanged for murder, appealed his case to the supreme court. Sometime afterward tlie sheriff seeing the case re- ))ortcd in the Sacramento Union as affirmed, Itanged the prisoner. In a few days an order came reversing the decision of the court. Two men fought at Cacheville one day. An im- pocunious lawyer regarded it speculatively. Stepping up to the victor he said : " Lewis, you can make him sweat for that ; he struck you first." "What do I care; I have sweated him enough already," replied Lewis. "That's all v(>ry well," persisted the lawyer, "hut liv; struck first; ho broke the law, and it is vour dutv as a free American citizen to see the institutions of your country sustained. Give me five dollars and we'll sweat him." " Well, I don't mind," grinned Lewis, as ho handed the pettifogger the money. "Sweat him good, will you'" " Von hot; he will respect you. all men will respect you after this." A warrant was issu<^d and the beaten man brought into court. The same lawyor who instigated the suit ap[)roached him confidontijilly '•See here, Sam; you've got yourself into a dovil f»r a fix. Do you know you can be .sent tf> the state IM-isoii for this. But I'm on the other side, Sam, in 1(1 I can save you. Give me five dollars and you it!o a free man." "Cheap enough," said Sam, as he handed over the nioMoy and walketl out of court. At the request of the prosecution a nolle prosequi was entered and the case dismissed. The lawyer was II lit by Lewis shortly after who accosted him. '--■ ! I COURTS OF JU.STICE AXD COURT SCENES. *' How is this ; how about trial, example, and insti- tutions i " "Well you see the jud«je was against us; so rather than risk a trial I withdrew for an appeal — " "A 'peal ? I'll peal you if you don't peal backtiiat five dollars," The learned counsel pealed. The following statement displays one phase of the workings of law, which goes far to show that it is often better to submit quietly to injuries sustained than to attempt redress in the courts. " To the officers of Calaveras county. — Gentlemen: On the 24th day of February last, while travelling through your country, I was waylaid by a highway- njan, who, after robbing the stage of Wells, Fargo & Co.'s express box, forced me to give up my purse, containing about eighty-three dollars. I am in- formed the amount obtained from Wells, Fargo & Co, was eighty-one dollars. On the next day the robber was arrested in your county, and no effort made to search him, except to take from him his pistol ; neither was he searched for money nor iden- tifying articles in his possession until he was in- carcerated in San Andreas jail, although ho was known to have over one hundred dollars upon his person, until lie had emplo3'c>l one Mr Hopkins to defend him, securing his services by giving him a j)ortion of the money stolen from me. The prisoner was then searched and over forty dollars found on liis ])erson. I was summoned by the proper authorities of said county to api)ear in said San Andreas on three separate occasions, to wit ; before the commit- ting magistrate, before the grand jury, and on tlic trial before the county court, to each of which sum- mons I went as a witness from this city, my home. A few days before the final trial, the sheriff of said county expended a portion of the money found on the jirisoner in purchasing him clean underclothing. On April 25 th the prisoner, under the name of Wrig] of J)i^ fiftt^en lodi, jet "III county rofuse( plied t lars of me tJie sheriff" decline order c wit : 'i and my by lettc tried an tlie nioi Bkar niake an tlie nion nioney v ^vas the tlie lattc Hu! cour H\ il acti i" justic •sluiriffs Iiave rec( viction, a "Ifthc <»f the sta f^iK'li is tl) if I am 8< man, I wi LEFT-HANDED JUSTICE. C45 Wright, was convicted, as cliar^ed in the indictment, of highway robbery, and has since been sentenced to fifteen years in tiie [wnitentiary, where he is now lodged and boardetl at the expt^nse of tiie state. " Immediately after his conviction, I applieil to the county judge for mileage or traveling expenses, who rofused to make any allowance for either. I then ap- plied to th3 district attorney, who claimed thirty dol- lars of the money in the sherift^s hands, as he Informed me the law allowed it to him. I then applied to the slicriff for the money taken from the prisoner, who declined to pay out any of the money, except on the order of the judge, as several parties claimed it, to wit: The prisoner's attorney, the district attorney, and myself. After the sentence of Wright, I applied by letter to the county judge before whom he was tried and convicted, for an order on the sheriff to pay the money to me. His answer is as follows: San Andkkas, May 1, 1877. Miln Hnadlerj, Esq., San Francisco. Dkar Sir: — I do not think the court entitled to make any order directing the sheriff to }»ay over to you the nioney taken from Wright. It was in proof that money was taken from you by Wright. ]^ut that it was the identical coin was not proved, and even in the latter cas(^ would not have been under control of tlu! court till after conviction. Your remedv was bv a civil aetion for monevs had and received, tonnnenced ill justice's court. By attaching tlu; coin in the sluTitrs hands before the trial of Wright, you could have recovered judgment against him u[)()n the con- viction, and so received what the sheriff' held. Yours, Respectfullv, IRA H. REED. " If the law, as practised in your country, is the law of the state, it is time it was changed; and so long as such is the practise under the law or against the law, it' I am so unfortunate as to meet another highway- nuui, I will settle the matter by a draft on sight or ! If COURTS OP JUSTICE AND COUUT SCENES. pocket the loss, and I advise my friends to pursue tlie same course. As the money stolen from me has been appropriated to defend and clotlic the prisoner, and as I have been compelled to pay my own ex[>cnsos for over nine hundred miles of travel, besides occupying two weeks of my time, I may expect a bill from your county for board and lodging of the prisoner, as also the expenses incurred in sending him to the state board-ht)Use. Respectfully Yours, MILO HOADLEY. San Francisco, May 4, 1877." A miner committed suicide on Feather river. A coroner's jury, a new institution in these parts, was empanelled, which after hearing and wei<;hing tlie evidence, brought in a verdict that the dead man was *' a damned fool." Henry Lark, in 1854 justice of the peace at Ama- dor, held court in the bar-room of the Magnolia wi- loon, that being his favorite resort when not enjiaired in trading horses. One day Jim Wall, the sheriH" brought in an Irishman accused of stealing messes of meat at different times from his neighbor's cabin. The justice was deep in old sledge with the bar- keeper, Pitts, for a dollar a side, being far too shrewd to waste his time at any one-sided whisky game. ** Here, judge, give me your hand wliile you settle this business," said the sheriff, approaching the table. " Git, and don't bother me," responded his honor. But recalling the dignity of his office as he raked in the dollar at the end of the game, he arose, and giv- ing the sheriff his seat, threw his leg over the adjoin- ing table, and with his eye took in the prisoner. " Well, what you got to say for yourself?" at length demanded the judge. " I beg," clearly and promptly fell from the lips of the bar keeper, CARDS IX COURT. 647 " I'll sec you clainiicd firat," respoiulo*] Wall. "Sheritf, kt'e|) silence in the court," intei'iKisecl the judge. Then turning to the prisoner, he begun again. " Well, sir—" Sheriff. 'Cut the kerds, barkecp." Barkeeper. *' Run 'en»." Prisoner. *' I was only borrowin' the mate, yer honor," with a most winning smile. Judge. "Why didn't—" Barkeeper. "No you don't, Mr Wall; put your little old jack on that ace, and no nigging " Judge. "Either this court or that game nmst ad- journ if you don't make less noise." Barkeeper. "One moment, judge; count your game, Wall." Judge. " How much — " Sheriff. "High, jack, game." Judge. "Silence hi ctmrtl" For a few moments the i)la3^ers were comparatively quiet while the judge continued the examination. At length the sheriff, again forgetting himself, cried t)ut, "Six, and; ri[) ahead, old boss!" Tlus judge rose in anger, but as he turned toward the players he saw the king and ten of trunips in the bar-keeper's hand, and the case was instantly forgotten. " Wall, I'll bet you five dollars your beaten," ex- clain»ed the judge. " Done!" said the sheriff. "Come down with the casji ; no fraud." With cautious circumspection the point was played for. The whole attention of the judge was absorbed in the game. The sheriff won. Meanwhile the pris- oner quietly withdrew. "Fraud and cheating," cried the judge. "I fine you both ten dollars for contempt of court," and so concluded the trial. .r\ Before the county court of Lake county, in 1865 I think it was, D. J. McCarty was brought for whip- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 !ffitt IM I.I 1.25 1^ 1.4 1.6 a v^ *^ -f> Hiotographi Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 -■^ \^- \ \ ;\ '^^ 4i^ i^l% % xP ^ \ c^ 648 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. ping his wife. The case had provoked much scandal, and the courtroom was crowded. The district attor- ney', J. H. Thompson, had stated his case, and was ready with his witnesses, when a question was raised as to the admissibiUty of certain evidence. The at- torney offered to produce authorities to sustain his position, but as he was slow in finding them the judge became impatient, and ruled the evidence out. "The deuce you do 1" said the attorney, "I'll read you the law, and bet you a thousand dollars I am right." "Silence, sirl" cried the judge. "I'll commit you for contempt of court." "Commit and be damned!" said Thompson. "I know my rights, and intend to maintain them." " Sheriff 1 Criglerl" roared th3 infuriated judge, "take Thompson to jail, and adjourn court for twenty- four hours." " Neither Crigler nor any other man shall take me to jail," Thompson replied. Crigler stepped forward to obey the mandate of the court, but seeing that in Thouipson's air and atti- tude significant of danger he hesitated. Meanwhile Thompson went on with his authorities, artfully min- gling apologies with his remarks to the bench until the judge became pacified, and the trial proceeded. In a justice's court, at one of the mountain towns of Calaveras, a case came up involving the ownership of a mining claim. The defendant was in possession. But the plaintiff claimed that he could prove a prior possession, and that the defendant had unjustly seized and held with intent to defraud that to whicli he had no right or title. The plaintiff was represented by counsel, dressed in civilized fashion, the defendant pleaded his own cause. Witnesses were called on both sides, but their testimony was not of that kind which gave the jury confidence in placing either party in possession. After the comisel for the plaintiff had spoken, tlie defendant arose. A SERMOX ON LAWYERS. 649 "Gentlemen of the jury," said he. "I appear be- fore you as my own counsel, a man of like passions and liabiliaments with you, supported by the right- eousness of my cause, and by an implicit confidence in your sense of justice. My opponent lias sum- moned to his aid a lawyer, attired in a Shanglut coat, and pitted him against an humble but honest miner. Gentlemen of tlie jury, is this proper; is it right? I have always been led to believe that tlie honest and intelligent miners of Calaveras would resist to the death the introduction of Shangha coats, and narrow-legged pantaloons. What tlien do I see ? What is my surj)ri3e to behold in this com- munity of hard-working, bearded, and woolen-shirted men, fastened upon us like a black sheep, the thing they call a gentleman; a learned man, a lawyer, a shyster, one who 1 reeds broils, who lives by his wits, a shaved man, a soft-handed man ; a monkey arrayed in patent-leather boots, white sliirt, stand up collar, and black coat and pants. Fellow citizens we want no gentlemen or lawyers here. We are honest miners, hard-working miners, and capable of taking care of our own affairs, of makinyr our own laws, of conductmg our own trials, and of doing our own hanging. Are there among us any cut-throats, this man is their friend; are there here any thieves, or murderers, or claim-jumpers, this person will be to them as a brother — for a consideration. He it is who befriends the wicked, wlio assists those wlio will not work, those who live like himself by their wits. And as for my opponent, think you any man with a just cause would employ such assistance? No my fellow-citizens; such a course impcaclu^s your intelligence, and brands him a renegade, an outlaw, and places him witliout the pale of tlie rights of humanity. I don't mean to appeal to your prejudices, but I can and will prove my prior possession to the claim in question." Plaintiff, •« That's a lie 1" 1 650 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES Justice. " Fine the plaintiff ten dollars for con- tempt of court." Defendant. "Assertion is not proof, neither are the bloatings of a black -coated hireling evidence; and when the plaintiff accuses n)e of lying he insults the majesty of the law, the sanctity of justice, and the holiness of truth." The jury retired to deliberate ; and on returning into court the foreman took his seat as near as possi- ble to the door. The verdict was then rendered that neither of the claimants had proved possession, and that the claim was vacant. Tlie mine was a rich one, and if indeed it was now without a legal owner, the first upon the ground could take it up and hold it. Scarcely had the foreman delivered the verdict when he made a rush for the door, followed by the litigants, the lawyer, and the remainder of the jury, The race was a hot one, several arriving on the spot sinmltaneously, when a general melee set in for the possession, which was finally settled by a game of freeze-out poker. Cut-eye Foster was Yreka's first alcame, and the year of his reign was 1851. He departed, with un- seendy speed it is said, and left no docket. George C. Vail then assumed the duties of office, and no law- book ever embarrassed justice in his court. Vail's docket should be placed among the curiosities of literature. In it the history of each case was fully written. The following incident found recorded in its pages illustrates the wa\'s of justice within this precinct. A lad came into court one day, a hard-working ojRn- faced fellow, and complained that a certain man for whom he had worked all winter, and had driven a team from Oregon, had sold all his effects and was about leaving the place without paying him. The boy's appeai'ance added truth to his story. With two constables Vail started after the man, and found SISKH^OU. 651 him on the road with his back toward the town, mak- ing the best time possible, arrested and brouglit into court. He did not deny the boy's claim, but affirmed that he had not the money to pav it. "Constable," said Vail, "take that man and stand him on his head ; then shake him well, and listen if you can hear anythnig drop." The prisoner was seized and the test applied ; when from his pocket dropped a bag containing $2,000 in gold dust, out of which was paid the boy's claim of $300. The alcalde then atljudged himself and the two constables one ounce each, and after weighing it the bag of gold-dust was handed back to the man, who was then permitted to take his departure. Scott Bar, Siskiyou county, in 1851 aspired to the dignity of possessing a justice of the peace. The candidates were Bill Simmons and Buffalo John. The friends of each were sanguine. Money flew, whisky ran like water, and the excitement grew in- tense. Buffalo John was the popular candidate, and the boys elected him without a doubt; but the three men on the board of canvassers were pecuniarily in- terested in the election of Sinnnons. Their only hope of ever getthig certain money which he owed them was by making him a justice, so they declared him elected. Their plea was that BufRilo John had such a habit of opening his mouth every time he crooked his elbow as would disqualify him from wear- ing the ermine. An attempt was made to contest the election, but the decision of the board was unchange- able, and Bill was installed, and contirmod to g(^t deeper and deeper in debt to his old friends until 1859, when he rolled up his blankets and departed for parts unknown. A Truckee jury had been out four hours when tlie judge sent the sheriff to ascertain if they had found a verdict. As he approached the room the sheriff p hi lii (■(■■■ i • * ii I 652 COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCEXES. hearing a great commotion stopped to listen. Tlien he called tlie judge, who had first an ear and then an eye to the key-hole. The tableau wliich presented itself should be engraved and hung in every court- room where jury trials obtain. In tlie middle of the room was a table on which stood a demijohn of whisky, a pall of water, and half a dozen glasses. There was much condensed comfort in the demijohn, as was evident from tlie attitude of the already hilarious twelve, who were marching in single file round the table. P^irst was a man with a huge base drum upon his back, followed by the foreman pounding it with all his might. The third was a snare-drummer, and the fourth a juror with a shrill whistle in imitation of a fife. The rest were singing. Suddenly the sheriff opened the door and the oflH- cials stood before them. "Hello, judge," hiccuped the foreman. "We couldn't agree nohow, so we thought we would put in the time social like s' long as we were a congenial company." William Blackburn was an alcalde at Santa Cruz in 1847 and 1848. As an illustration of his unique decisions, the story is told of a native Callfornian who quarrel(id with a countryman, and being defeated in tlie contest, revenged himr«elf by shaving the mane of his antagonist's horse. The case was brought before the judge for trial ; the horse was present as a co!ivincing witness, and a crowd thronged the court- house with curiosity to hear the judge's decision. After a deliberate examination of the witnesses, the malicious Californian was sentenced to receive pun- ishment in conformity with holy writ, which demanded an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth. "Lead out the prisoner and let his mane be shaved in like manner as he served the horse," was the sentence, and its immediate execution afforded intense amusemeut to tl saddl so tl mane wouk his aj tion o then I emplo VVh fornia iastau' one of a supe daj's, I great fiery 1 ^Santa ^\^^s pi all ni<> wj)en 1 his lies tlie un; One f harnfO) pcarceh numbej genial j gJorioui twixt a to go i fatnona unstabL of a ha control so that ill speec heroes. BRONA'N, OF SANTA CRUZ. JBft to the spectators. The judge then ordered that a saddle should he stuffed with the hair of the prisoner, so that justice might ride triumphantly upon the mane of vice. It was expected that the alcaUlos would send their decisions to the governor and await his ajjproval, but Blackburn, to secure speedy execu- tion of justice, usually carried out his sentence first, and then reported to gubernatorial power. The only book employed in this court was a New York directory. When the early administration of justice in Cali- fornia swelled from the alcalde's courts of the first instance, Santa Cruz becoming ambitious organized one of these superior tribunals, and a])}»(;int(d over it a superior judge. As all good jurists drank in those days, and as tlie legal learning of a judge was to a great extent measured by his capacity for carrying fiery liquids, by this measuren-iCnt Judge Brown (f Santa Cruz was a most able man. The depth of him w.is profound. Late into the night, and oftentimes al) night, saw him at his mellownig devotions; and M iien next morning he took his seat upon the bench his head was seemingly so enlarged as to encompass tlie universe with all its whirling worlds. One morning a Spaniard was brought before him cliariied with stealiny: a horse. The iudije was ?::< arcely himself that day ; his facuuies seemed be- numbed, lukewarm, dissolved in spate, neither in the genial glow of original potations, nor yet in a state of glorious insensibility. He was, as he would say, be- twixt and between ; too good to go to hell, too bad to go to heaven, and fit only to swell the limhits fituonim of paradisiacal fo(»ls. At such times the unstable consciousness his mind could grasp was not of a happy kind ; on the contrary while having least control of himself lie was most self-willed and savage, so that on this morning he was almost as boastful in speech and as merciless in heart as any of Honker's heroes. ; f r v*! 1! k Ml COURTS OF JUSTICE AND COURT SCENES. Only a few days before, the judge himself had lost a valuable horse, stolen from a vacant lot adjacent to his house, which circumstance tended in no wise toward the restoration of equanimity or general amia- bility oi' the magistrate on the morning nicntionod. The prisoner was a hard-featured, wicked-eyed man, whose appearance to the dimmed vision and cloudy brain of the judge now seemed absolutely hideous. Unfortunately, the two ideas of his stolen horse and the liorse-thief here present came together, and went bobbing and circling through his brain, until joining in weird embrace, the pitching of the pair over some precipice into stygian shades awoke the judge with a start, and lighted for a moment his eye with dire in- telligence. "Pedro Castro, stand up! I believe you are the damned scoundrel who stole my horse. The sentence of the court is that before the sun shall set you shall bo hanged by the neck until you are dead, de-ad, d-e-a-tl." " But, your honor," savs the district attorney, "the man has not been tried.' " Sit down, sir I This court knows its business, and wants none of your interference. Mr Sheritf, see the judgment executed immediately; this court stands adjourned." All present were astounded, but all knew too well the temper of the judge to trifle with him in his pros- ent humor ; so the condemned was removed to prison while the judge went home and tucked himself in bed, witii a bottle of his favorite fluid within reach, and soon was snoring soundly. The officers of the court were in a dilemma. As a matter of course, the immediate execution of the prisonor was not to be thought of, b xt how to meet the anger of the judge when he shoui 1 have learned that his order had been disobeyed ? After much dis- cussion it was finally agreed that the clerk should enter judgment in the records, and the sheriff* make return that he had executed the prisoner. EXECUnOX AND TRIAL. IBS Next mcrning the judge awoke feeling unusually well. There are epochs in the experience of a drunk- ard when the opaque mists hefogging the mind van- ish, and the return of nitelligence opens transparent as an arctic sky in midwinter, and this, too, hn medi- ately following a series of debauches. So shone the transplendent discrimination of the Santa Cruz judge as he smilingly took his seat upon the bench next morning sober. The courtroom was neath' appointed. Before the judgment desk sat the busy clerk writing ; every officer was in his place, attentive, while the un- covered spectators, awe-inspired of ignorance, stood with under-jaw dropped on their breast, or si)eaking one with another in low whispers. Glancing over the calendar, the judge called the case of The People ver- sus Pedro Castro. " Your honor," respectfully replied the sheriff, "the man has been hanged." " Hanged 1 " exclaimed the judge, as forebodings of something fearfully wrong crept over him, " I do not understand you, sir ; there has been no trial yet." "No, your honor," said the clerk, "but yesterday, you will remember, your honor waived trial, sentenced the defendant, and peremptorily ordered thesherifl'to carry the sentence into immediate execution." "Hanged, did you sa}''?" meditatively remarked tlie judge as the situation gradually dawned upon him, " well, never mind, let the trial proceed mine pro hinc. All orders and judgments of this court must be justified by due legal proceedings, and if the sheriff' has so far erred in his understanding of the court as to lead to the commission of an unhappy blunder, the court will harbor no anger on that account, but will endeavor, so far as strict probity will admit, to reconcile the acts of the officers with the rulings of the court." The sheriff thus mildly admonished then brought before the judge, whose learned complacency once more fully possessed him. the prisoner, who after a sober but speedy trial was duly condenuied and executed. 4 1 i COURTS OF JUSTICE ANP COURT SCENES. The bcncli and b.ar of San Jose from the first num- bered as many able jurists as might be found in any thriving town of equal size in America. To the more refined gravity of sedate societies their manner might seem a little coarse, and their expletives irreverent, but their law, and the practical application of it, could not be questioned. The court of scssioLs of San Jose, in 1850, as then organized, exercised jurisdiction in criminal cases of the hiijhest degree. Judyre Rogers was a large, broad-featured, big-mouthed, Johnsonian sort of man, able, profane, and almost brutal in his vulgarity, yet withal, beh)W the superficial asperities of his nature, genial and sympathetic. One day It became his painful duty to sentence a [Mexican who had been tried before him to death. The prisoner did not speak English, and the judge deemed it proper that the sentence, as delivered, should be done into Spanish. The clerk of the court being competent was asked to act as interpreter, but as he was a man of shrinking sensibilities, he expressed abhorrence at the thought of being the medium of communicating the death intelligence to a human be- ing. There are moods in the temper ot strong men in which impediment only excites determination. All early Californians had a smattering of Spanish. When the clerk declined the office of translator, with a big round oath Judge Rogers swore he would make the man understand. " You, sir, get up I levantate 1 arriba 1 Sabe ? You been tried; tried by jury; damn you! sabe? You have been found — what the devil's the Spanish for guilty ? Never mind — sabe ? You have been found guilty, and you are going to be hanged ; sabe ? Hanged ? Entiende ? " The Mexican was as courageous as the judge was coarse. Evidently he did understand, for with the characteristic nonchalance of his race, he replied, il- lustrating by signs and gurglings the hanging and choking process : HARDIHOOD 657 "Si, seiior, debo ser colgado con chicote ; ahorcado asi ; no es nada ; jj^racias li Yd." " Yes, sir, I am to be hanged at a rope's end ; strangled, so ; it is nothing ; thank you." Cal. Int. Poc. 42 9 ; i %\ m CHAPTER XXII. DRINKING. Over wide streams and mountains great we went Anil, Have when Bacchus kept his ivy-tent, Onwani the tiger ami tiio leopard pants With Auian elephantj: We follow Bacclius! Bacchus on the wing A-conquering! Bacchus, young Bacchus! good or ill betide We dance l>efr»re him through kingdoms wide Come hither, lady fair, and joined To our wild minstrelsy. — Keiita' Emlymion. A NOT unfitting opening for some reflections on life would be a dissertation on death. Were there no death the term life would have no sii^nificance. Did we not love life we should not fear death. How- ever full of hateful conditions earthly existence may be, all thii js having life, man, animals, plants, cling to it ; the uncertainties of death are more dreaded than the certain ills of life. Then, too, life is exist- ence, being ; a dead thing is nothing, having no ex- istence, no being. Yet further, life feeds on death ; life lives on deatli ; by the destruction of life alone is life sustained ; were there no death, under the present economy of things, there could be no life, no continuinsj state of exist- ence. Death is the grand and universal interatance of life ; the infant's first breath is the breath of the dying. The whole scheme of animated nature througli- out the planet, concocted and put in running order by a so-called beneficent creator, involves the consumma- r (658) tion man suwtij toth sunie one L small the Ji Is the versa] is livii ergo, j such tj Tiie Japan ; would i arrow f 'lia wh( wis(? is plexy, i always, f'rinkint death is make a to-iiiorr( Whet is not w '^'^ cann( t\\Q ques nover ha of lias ev us, we m f"r n)ore ^vo will S'Hse, th£ *''<''r satii. f^'ftion of '"^'e, and V Contented DEATH AND THE DRAM-SHOP. 659 tion of a hundred deaths to maintain one life. Ho'^v lUJiiiy lives of birds and beasts and fishes are taken to sustain the life of one human being from the cradle to the grave ? How many fishes does a whale con- sume during its lifetime ; how many small fishes will one large fish eat; how many smaller fishes will a small fish eat ; how many lives does it take to sustain tlie life of the tiniest hisect the eye can distinguish ? Is then death so terrible, behig so beneficial, so uni- versal ? For all that lives is dying ; all that to-day is living, to-morrow is dead ; all that is living is dying, ergo, living is not living but dying, and there is no such thing as life, all nature bcin ^ either dead or dying. The dead willow is the symbol < )f decay and death in Japan ; in California if such a symbol was required we would take a dram-shop. 1 , ancient tiuies it was the arrow of Apollo that brought sudden death ; in Califor- nia when a man drops dead upon llie street, or other- wis(i is taken oft" suddenly, Ave call it heart disease, apo- l)lexy, the result of high living, usually, though not always, meaning — rum. And men are called ff>olg for drinking themselves to death, when we have just seen death is essential to life, is inevitable to all, does not make a pin's difference whether it comes to-day or to-morrow — particularly to-morrow. Whether we like the idea of death or dislike it, it is not wise greatly to trouble ourselves ab(iut it, as ■ve cannot long delay it by any such means. As in tlie question of life or no life beyond the grave, as it never has been determined, as no one that we know of has ever come back from beyond the grave to tell us, we mi^ht as well cease thinking about it, and wait for more light — ^this being what we must do whether we will or not. Those who through some seventh sense, that not every one possesses, have been told to their satisfaction, and can themselves tell to the satis- faction of a hundred houses full, what life and death are, and what the strte of affairs beyond, should rest contented; even if, atcer expecting a future existence, \ I DRINKING. thoy wake up in the next world and find it not so, tiiat is if they find anything. Man is the only beast that drinks to make himself drunk. In this he is more beastly than any other beast, and yet he has the impudence to employ a term beneath any which may be applied to himself in order to emphasize a vice too low for any created thing but himself to indulge in. I hold it groat injustice to beasts for man to call his own base indulgences beastl}-, Buasts are less beastly than men. It would be nearer right for beasts to charge the more excessively dis- gusting of their practices humanly, for beasts are not denaturalized by their ppssions like men. And along with drunkenness, and the necessit}'^ of establishing laws under which to liv^e, place the faculties of speech and abstraction, the one used to no small extent in lying and swearing, and the other in cheating and ovcrreachinij, and we have before us all the tanuible differences between human and animal societies. The word whisky is from the Gaelic ooshk'-a-pai, which signifies "water of health." Usquebaugli, Irish, nistje -a-hagh, also the French cau dc vie may be rendered "water of life." The whisky taken to the mhies, however much water there may have been in it, was neither "of health" nor "of life." The truth is, if anything could breed distemper, disease, and death it was this same strychnine whisky. In regard +f^ '.vaU-r, too often it was like Father Tom's puncli brewed in the parlor of the Vatican — conspicuous for its absence. "Put in the sperits first," said he to the pope, "and then put in the sugar; and remendxr, every dhrop ov wather you put in after that spoils tliu punch." Satan once presented himself before Noah, if \vc may credit the Tahnud, to drink wine with him. T!,o devil in <'his instance must have been teachinor mor;il- ity, for to show the patriarch the several effects of W'ne in vari(jus quantities, he slew a lamb, a lion, a drinki kings. made ; the S hangin and tJi There away wJio "obbed who W( utterly bowed WJioiii Jiieinor) many tbomsol tlicy th, TJien tJi HANDY HAPPINESS. 661 pig, and an ape, the first being emblematic of man before drink, the second of the effect of wine in mod- eration, the third tiie condition of a sot, and the fourth the senseless chatterings of the imbecile drunk. In Greek carousals one of the first things to be considered was whether it should be optional or com- pulsory as to the quantity each should drink. Intemperance is treated as a vice in one of its phases only. The drunkard, so runs the tone of society, is an immoral beast, whom to scorn and sliun is Christian and praiseworthy. Yet wine in moderation is a bless- ing, and not a curse. So arsenic and strychnine have their uses, otherwise it was a mistake of the creator to have made them. Like everything else, drinking took on its own form iji California. From a drinking-shop arose, outside Sebastopol, the fortified town and famous tower of Malakotf, which in the Crimean war was the cause of so much annoyance to the allied army, from a drinking-shop arose in San Francisco a race of bonanza kings. Men steeped their souls in drink. Anything was made a pretext — the arrival of news, the 4th of July, the Sunday festivities, the death of a comrade, a hanging scrape, or simply being seized with thirst, and the whole camp would be taken suddenly drunk. There were always those about bar-rooms putting away for years apparently upon the same cigar, and who were never entirely sober, and who hob- nobbed, chinked glasses, and drank tete-a-tete with all who would pay the sct)re. Then there were thousands utterly alone in this wilderness of civilized wild men, bowed down to the earth bv their misfortunes, to wliom forgetfulness obliterating woes was better than memory to keep alive the good, and this forgetfulness many would have at any cost. They would drink themselves into a state of most unbeastly intoxicaticm; they then would go to cind drink themselves sober. Then there was the coming out of it, the hardest of 662 DRINKING. all, the blues, the shakes, the shame of it all ; but out of it they must come or die, and that no one feels more keenly than the drunken man himself. Rum they found not less potent in its cure of dis- appointment, melancholy, and heart-aches than the nepenthes of Helen, that draught divine which lifted the soul above all ills. Their breath was almost as foul as that of Macamut the Sultan of Cambava who, if wo may believe Purchas, lived on poison, and became so saturated with it that his touch or breath caused instant death. Sometimes half the members of a mining camp would fall into the habit of periodical sprees which would last usually from two to three days. A stranger once arriving at Rich Bar on Feather river about three o'clock in the morning, dismounted from his mule before a hotel grocery, being led thither by the glimmering of a light. A sound of revelry was heard within, but as all the other houses of the place was wrapped in darkness the stranger made bold to enter and inquire concerning accommodations for him- self and beast. After arranging his affairs for the night, or rather for the rest of the morning, he re- marked casually to the keeper : ' " It strikes me your customers are rather late to-night." " Oh 1 no, stranger," replied the landlord, " the boys of Rich Bar generally run for forty-eight hours. It's a little late this n?orning perhaps for night before last, but for last night, why bless you, it's only just in the shank of the evening 1 " Time was when in our now staid and solemn-visaged communities everybody drank, everybody sometimes drank too much. They were measured by the number of bottles they could carry, and the always-sober man was a rarity. If appetite flagged thirst was excited hy condiments. Drink was dealt out in horns and pointed- bottom cups that would not stand so that the drinker must finish the draft before laying down the cup. T to SJ and Win ica, i chiei drinl less ( a fri: HasI tinue Sp to dr there than ] Lit day a< body J enterti freely, to exc( Doc than oi to win decent were m you pr bottle c gone oi smoke eyes, ai us. Y( quires s from tc Juan has i»g with Thus all over god Dioi THE SCIENCE OF INTOXICATIOK. 663 The weak, the weary, the beaten in life's battle, to say nothing of the lazy and profligate of all ages and climes, seem to crave stimulation or stupefaction. "Wine, spirits, beer, and tobacco in Europe and Amer- ica, hasheesh in Egypt, and opium in China are the chief indulgences, but there are multitudes of minor drinks such as Indian hemp and Aztec pulque of no less deadly intoxicating virtues. All these prevail to a frightful extent and constitute the national vice. Haslieesh first elates and then depresses, and con- tinued indulgence results in idiocy or death. Speaking to Bos well of one who urged his quests to drink immoderately at table Johnson said ** Sir, there is no more reason for your drinking with him, than his being sober with you." Little Pope drank his bottle of burgundy every day at dinner, thus warming his diminutive dried-up body into that comfort which made itself known by entertaining gaiety. Sir Joshua Reynolds drank freely, and greatly enjoyed it, but he seldom indulged to excess. Doctor Johnson observed that "our drinking less than our ancestors was owing to the change from ale to wine." "I remember," said he, "when all the decent people in Liclifield got drunk every night, and were not the worse thought of. Ale was cheap, so you pressed strongly. When a man nmst bring a bottle of wine, he is not in such haste. Smoking has gone out. To be sure, it is a shocking thing, blowing- smoke out of our mouths into other people's mouths, eyes, and noses, and having the same thhig done to us. Yet I cannot account why a thing wliich re- quires so little exertion, and yet preserves the mind from total vacuity, should have gone out. Ever)' man has something by which he calms himself; beat- ing with his feet, or so." Thus it was that all along the foothills, and indeed, all over California, coequal with Plutus reigned the god Dionysius, sometimes one and sometimes the other 664 DRINKING. having for the moment the supremacy. All nature here was filled to overflowing with that intoxicatinsj: • • • power which carries men onward m their wild career to happy success or soul-crushing destruction. Here so often they might with the Cyclops sing, "Ha! hal I am full of wine, Heavy with the joy divine." Thousands every day were as drunk as birds of para- dise — so drunk that ants might eat their legs off. There have never been lacking those who in a breath would solve all social riddles, and eradicate all social evils. There are temperance fanatics as well as religious and political fanatics, and anti-slavery, anti- tobacco, and anti-tea-and-coffee fanatics. It is not by grinding still deeper in the mire the unfortunate and vicious that gambling and prostitution are eradicated. "The California wines are a disappointment and a failure," says Dr Holland rejoicingly. " They are not popular wines, and we congratulate the country that they never can be." This is not only untrue, but it is both a wicked and a silly sentiment. Lecky perceives a remedy in the use of tea, coflee, and chocolate, which checks "tJie boisterous revels that had once been universal, and raising woman to a new position in the domestic circle, they have contrib- uted very largely to refine manners, to introduce a new order of tastes, and to soften and improve tlie character of men." The Norsemen taught the English to dismiss their ladies from their drinking-paiiies ; the Vikings fol- lowed the same custom. The custom of pledging in wine arose during the tenth century, when it was considered a necessity for a person, while drinking, to have some one to watcli, lest he should be killed by some enemy or strangor during the act. In drinking to their lady-loves, the Romans used to take a glass for every letter of the name ; spelling with beer-glasses, Hudibras called the custom. and him men, brandj' niost Soonest At ano with wlion drunk; drunk a man \ a man in inch ANCIEXT AND MODERN CUSTOMS. COo Of a truth, they played well the Greek in their cups. E pithi e apithi! QuafF, or be oft" I Cut in, or cut out 1 Or in the language of our time, to pro- mote hilarity it was the rule that every man should tell a story, sing a song, or treat the crowd. The drinking customs of California were peculiar, as I have said, but not all the drinking and drunkenness of this world has been confined to California. " I was afraid he might have urged drinking," says Boswell of Johnson, "as I believe he used formerly to do, but lie drank port and water out of a large glass himself, and let us do as we pleased. . . . After supper Dr JoJmson told us that Isaac Hawkins Browne drank freely for thirty years, and that he wrote his poem, Dg Animi Immortalitate, in some of the last of these years. I listened to this with the eagerness of one who, conscious of being himself fond of wine, is glad to hear that a man of so much genius and good think- ing as Browne had the same propensity." Again : " I reminded him how heartily he and I used to drink wine together when we were first acquainted, and liow I used to have a headache after sitting up with him. He did not like to have this recalled, or perhaps think- ing that I boasted improperly." Jolinson expressed great contempt for claret, say- ing, "a man would be drowned by it before it made hhn drunk. Claret is the liquor for boys, port for men, but he who aspires to be a hero nmst drink brandy. In the first place, the flavor of brandy is most grateful to tlie palate, and then brandy will do soonest for a man what drinking can do for liiui." At anothc" time he said, " Drinking may be practised with great prudence ; a man who exposes himself wlien he is intoxicated has not the art of getting drunk; a sober man who happens occasionally to get (h'unk readily enough goes into anew company, whicli a man who has been drinking should never do. Such a man will undertake anj'thing. He is without skill in inebriation. I used to slink home when I had DRINKING. drunk too much. A man accustomed to self-exami- nation will be conscious when he is drunk, thouf^h an habitual drunkard will not be conscious of it. I knew a physician who for tv/enty years was not sober." In the cities and towns there was a noticeable ab- sence of homes. Stores, saloons, restaurants, board- ing-houses, and hotels made a metropolis, and to this day the habits of herding then contracted hang upon the people. In 1849 almost every house and tent, public and private, received lodgers for pay. A regu- lar lodjiintj-house consisted of one room, with shelf-like bunks ranged round the sides, each of which held a straw mattress reeking with filth and vermin, and a pair of musty blankets. Cots occupied the centre of the room, and sleeping-places were chalked out on the floor, where, after the beds were filled, others might stretch themselves in their own blankets at a dollar a night. Merchants slept in their offices, with then- employes scattered about the premises on counters, benches, tables, trunks, boxes, or bunks. Cooking was also done in many places of business. Then eat- ing-houses arose of every grade, from the Chinese chow-chow to the Montgomery street saloon where, in 1854, a hundred attaches waited on three thousand hungry applicants daily. The so-called hotels which sprang up in the mining camps were usually built of rough boards, being of one story, with a common sleeping-room, or of two stories with separate apartments above. The front door opened into the bar-room, which was also ofiire and billiard and gambling saloon. There execrable wine and spirits were sold at twenty-five or fifty cents a glass to the filthiest scum of human kind that ever congregated to eat, drink, smoke, chew, spit, gamble, shoot, stab, and blaspheme. Adjoining was the dining- room, where, on a long clothless table, flanked by wooden benches, beefsteak, beans, boiled potatocp, dried-apple sauce, dusky bread, pickles, and molasses, ing, gong PLUSH TIMKS HOTELS. 667 are served to miners, teamsters, traders, gamblers, and politicians, who sit down together, the washed and the unwashed, without regard to quality or caste. On the same bench may be seated a clergyman, a Sydney convict, an Oxford graduate, a New York blackleg, and the professional drunkard of the town. Sometimes for bunks canvas was stretched over wooden frames ; a hay pillow and a pair of blankets comprised the bed. Fifty or a hundred of these berths were sometimes constructed in one room ; each was numbered, and on signifying his wish to retire, the traveller, on payment of a dollar to the hotel- keeper, might hunt out his place, and without undress- ing, deposit his bag of gold-dust and revolver under his pillow, and go to sleep — if the fleas would let him. Outside the door stands a barrel of water, and on as many kegs three or four tin basins with a chunk of washing-soap convenient, where morning ablutions may be made. Against the house hangs a piece of looking-glass, and a well-worn brush and comb are conveniently fastened to a chain or string. After a wash and a gin cocktail, the boarder is ready for his breakfast, which is despatched with marvellous rapid- ity. At meal times, if business is brisk, the bell or gong does not fail to create a stampede toward the dining-room door ; a rush is made for seats, and tlie disappointed retire and wait for the next sitthig. In the evening: all coni^reijcate in the bar-room, liorht their pipes, lift up their obscene voices in boisterous jokes, and strut about ready to give " particular hell" to any who dare question the rights of liberty -loving American citizens to do as they please. Stores also had their bars, where, beside the sale of calico, canvas, clothing, hardware, canned fruits and meats, sugar, flour, bacon, and tobacco, the dice were tlirown, quarters flipped, or a game of cards plaj-ed for the drinks. For this purpose a table and chairs were provided, where cans might be opened and oys- ters eaten. DRINKING. The restaurant is a prominent feature in the feetling economy of the country. The best are kept by for- eigners, Germans, French, Itahans; American res- taurants are invariably second, third, or fourth rate. The typical American can keep a hotel such as no foreigner may liope to equal, but when it comes to restaurant-feeding, the tables are turned. The cause may be traced to the facts that the American hotel is an American institution, while the restaurant is as fully European. In 1854 a Parisian rotisseric was set up on Kearny street, where fish, flesh,, and fowl for the millit)n might be roasted. In the fire-place, beneath a chinmey six fe'^t wide, and resting; on an iron <j:ratini;, was a louij fire of wood, parallel to which, and about eight inches from it in front, were three iron rods, with numerous prongs upon which to hang meat to be roasted, and wheels rigged to turn it so as to cook it equally on every side. Meat and game to be roasted might be purchased there or elsewliere, or it might be bouglit there ready cooked, but it had to be taken away as soon as ready, for eating on the premises was not per- mitted. Half a dollar was charged for roasting a duck or chicken, and no frying, boiling, or broiling was done — nothing but roasting, and that for a specific consideration. Thus was the division of labor in this cosmopolitan city applied to the laudable art of cookery. Bar-room boarders formed a class peculiar to the countr3\ They niight be seen lounging about tJio court-house, the hotels, and the saloons without occu- pation or visible means of support. They were fat, sleek, well-dressed, with independent mien, with gold and silver jingling in their pockets, and contentment smiling in their faces. They were never known to work; how then did they live? I see one with a gold-headed cane in well- fitting beaver coat and pants, with a glossy silk hat, pluming his well kept nmstaolie and whiskers in front of a first-class boot-black estalt- lishment where an extra polish had just been given to and SEVEN TIMES ONE ARE SEVEN. 6Cd his rcd-toppcd boots. A licavy-caserl watch — was it gold? — which ho drew from his pocket told him it was tt'U o'clock: a brother bummer came sauntonny; aloiiLj the street, sidled U[) to him with scarcely a percep- table simi of rccoofnition, and bewail a conversation remarkable for its fewness of words. As amoiiy: beasts and lovers in the simple presence of each other there was a nmte understajiding untranslatable into the vuk^ar tongue. Presently they turned and walked awjiv, under the guidanceof their particular providence. The system of free lunches has not been wholly free from abuses. While it was a point of lionor in pat- rons neither to eat nor drink too nmch, often there were those so carried away by the eflcct of the savory viands on their unruly appetites, that the proprietors lost money by their i)atronage. In Novcnd)er 1854 a movement was made by some fifty or si/ty fashionable saloon-kee})ers in San Francisco to al olish this original, yet honored institution ; but S(s firm was fhe hold upon the popular stomach, that it was found to be impracticable. It was esti- mated that at least five thousand persons were directly interested in the movement, aiid dependent on the result for their daily refreshments. The connnittee reported in favor of abolishing the free lunch system, but the proprietors failed to adopt it, and the custom was indefinitely continued. The hotel system of 1849 reached a state of per- fection under the auspices of a certain shrewd genius of Sacramento. In those days whisky as a means of warmth was more plentiful and profitable to inn- keepers than blankets. One landlord had in his bar- room seven bunks, one over another, made of flour and coffee sacks stretched between two horizontal poles fastened to posts, forming an uncomfortable hollow just wide enough for a medium-sized man to droj) into. For these seven bunks there were but one ])air of blankets, and liow to satisfy seven custonu>rs, and get pay for suveu bcda with but one l)air of i |! I in DRINKING. blankets was the question. But the genius of the landlord was equal to the emergency. The niglits were wet and cold, and naturally enough as the boys came in from their supper they sat down to play for the whisky before going to bed. The liquor was strong, the drafts upon it copious, and in due time one after another beginning to feel its comforting and somnolent effects would ask for a bed. The afiable and ready landlord promised to accommodate them all if they would be quiet and take their turns. Con- ducting the first applicant to the bunk-side of the room which was shielded from view by barrels and boxes, he assisted him into the topmost berth and covered him nicely with the blankets. Then waiting until the man was fast asleep he removed from him the blankets, and spreading them in another berth called for the next, and so on until all were put to bed and asleep. Then taking the blankets from the bed of the last customer, the landlord rolled himself comfortably in them, threw himself upon the floor, and slept soundly until morning. The first man awakes shivering with cold; the effects of the fiery fluid have passed away, and the blankets are gone. "Who. has stolen my blankets," he growls. This wakens the next who also finds himself uncovered, and the next, until all are up and on the floor cursing in unison the thief. Soon the landlord makes one of the party, and mourns the loss of his blankets. " Well 1 I must get out of this," says the first. " Landlord, how much is to pay ? " "Two dollars." "Two dollars 1" isn't that rather tall for sleeping on two poles ? " " It is only a dollar a pole," replied the landlord, "and I think it very cheap; besides I have lost seven pairs of blankets which you ought to pay for, so you should be satis- fied." Fearing if they further demurred they would have the blankets to pa}- for, each paid his two dollars and withdrew, while the landlord made up his beds for the next night. . w was ( of A and y in po befon uuitec iiiima iforiiii first 8( of the excliai Son i'lg his before tJie pic niay U wJiich I withoui pliemes The cu dates b the eai i;^iigiou si II Of s: the ear moon tl; Hebrew the lion and Clu drink y( to majcs ries of Were ceh feature. tloes not hcaltli you to ijf the m n ORIGIN OF HEALTH POTATIONS. m * Wine, women, and the gods comprehended all that was divine among the ancients. After the discovery of America, however, the settlers becoming godless, and yet not willing to be behind their primogenitors in point of felicities, substituted tobacco, and never before did wine, women, and tobacco, severally and unitedly, lend their charms to solace and derange humanity as in the case of mammon-martyrs of Cali- ifornia. The last was considered a necessity, and the first soon became the cordial of success, the consoler of the unfortunate, and the medium of courteous exchanges. Some of man's distinguishing characteristics, show- ing )iis great superiority and true nobility of soul, before intimated, lies in the creation of appetites for the pleasure their gratification gives; apj)etites which may be renewed, not satisfied by the indulgence, but which grow from what they fed on. He alone eats without hunger, drinks without thirst, smokes, blas- phemes, seeking for body and mind new sensations. The custom of drinking healths and rememberance dates back to periods of the remotest antiquity. In the earliest ages as at the present time it was a i^ligious as well as a social ceremonial. As Anacreon sings: "Does not the earth drink the waves, the tree the earth, the sea the air, the sun the sea, and the moon the sun ? Then why should I not drink ?" The Hebrews had their drink offerinjis, the Greeks and the Romans poured out their libations to the gods, and Christians to this day observe the conunand, drink ye all of it. From these beginnings drinking to majesty naturally followed; the health and victo- ries of Augustus were drcank in Rome; and feasts were celebrated in which drunkenness was the chief feature. The Greek proverb adopted by the Romans does not, however, say, I drink in order that your health may be improved or preserved, but I invite you to drink by drinking myself. It was the fame of the mistress rather than her health that was to be ■ ■■'■ 072 DRINKING. Eromotcd by the ceremony. A piece of toasted read was thrown into a tankard of ale, and toast- drinking followed. The custom grew in favor; men a>id women were glad of any excuse for indulging the gnnving appetite, so that finally health-drinking fell into general observance. Healths were drank to form or cement friendships, to bind a bargain, to the honor of those who came and went, to the memory of the de- parted — though health-drinking to the dead was, in- deed, carrying the custom to an absurdity. Under its auspices war was declared, and peace ratified, sworn enemies became friends, and friends enemies. Senthnent being thus mingled with drink, the rever- ence and love expressed were in proportion to the quantity of liquor quaffed ; this as well as the sup- posed mark of manliness in being able to stand up under large potations made excessive drinking fash- ionable. He whose pliysical strength should longest endure while the mental and moral faculties were undergoing debasement was the best fellow ; but this sad merit is now restricted in its recognition to brain- less boys and silly men. -^sop, the slave, waiting at table, marked the effects of excessive wine-drinking in three stages ; first voluptuousness, second, drunk- enness, and third, fury. That liquor-drinking should have been carried to excess in Calift)rnia is not to be wondered at. The temptations were strong. Some who blame as sense- less folly this species of suicide may or may not have done better under similar conditions; with different mental, morl, and physical organization and training — accidents reflecting no special credit on the posses- sor — similar to those of the gambler, the thief, the drunkard, the murderer, under like circumstances to theirs, the immaculate man of self-complacency would certainly have been one or all of these. Men cannot long endure a heavy strain upon their faculties witli- out letting down. This letting down may be accom- pliahed by some in one way and by others in anotln r way. Sund But) do ni maste readii the p vvithir resort good and in chess self-im unsocif forge*^' selves and wi hand, ^ applied of stim and wh sudden, get war always > to get u and tlie an excu simply V seized ai selves di noble na quished was alree In the iiess was was comn atmosphe Were at fi elsewhere THEORY OP TIPPLING. 073 way. Piety will do it in frequent instances; sabbath, Sunday-school, church, prayer, and bible reading. But all men have not piety, never were trained to it, do not know what it is. Intellectual culture, the mastery of mind over base passion, which leads to reading, thinking, writing, will sometimes accomplish the purpose, but still fewer have these resources within them. To produce self-forgetfulness, the miners resorted to out-door amusements, and generally with good effect; horse-racing, foot-racing, ball-playing, and indoor novel-reading, card-playing, checkers, and chess were common. Lonely and desolate in their self-imposed ostracism, they were neither cynical nor unsocial. They felt the necessity for periods of self- forge<-*'ulness, and did what they could to make them- selves boys again. But this was not always sufficient, and with an antidote to every ill always ready at hand, with characteristic directness they too often applied it. During the hours of occupation some sort of stimulant seemed necessary to keep up the steam, and when work was over, the stop nmst not be too sudden. So, if hot, they drank to get cool, if cold to get warm, if wet to get dry, if dry — and some were always dry — to keep out the wet. When they wanted to get up an appetite for breakfast, they took a drink, and then another to aid digestion. Any shadow of an excuse, any cause except the true cause — which simply was to solace or excite the brain — was readily seized and offered. Thousands thus drank to them- selves damnation, thousands are to-day drinking it ; noble natures which nothing else could overcome, van- quished at last by the arch-fiend. Often tlie heart was already broken before the demon was let in. In the early days of California, however, drunken- ness was not the vice so nmch as drinking. Tippling was common from the beginning ; the excitements and atmosphere of the country were congenial to it. There were at first no more confirmed drunkards here than elsewhere, nor, indeed,, so many, for these were not Cal. Imt. Poc. 48. m DRINKING. the kind that came to California. For the enormous quantities of liquor consumed, the number of drunken men was few. It was later that multitudes were overcome of this evil. Then no one regarded drink in the light of an enemy to steal away his brains, but rather as a friend that promoted good fellowship, that cheated of their tediousness the slowly-passing dismal hours, that banished sorrow, that lifted care with in- stantaneous magic hand from off the brain, and gave it sweet oblivion, that inspired bold thoughts, that enlarged the soul, that etherealized the tamest joys, and threw a halo over coarse surroundings. Hard work and hard drinking with many went hand in hand ; but such men drunkenness seldom overtook, or if it did, it was occasional rather than common. It has been said that there is something in the cli- mate of California which superinduces delirium tre- mens with less provocation than elsewhere. I do not know what it is, unless itbe the same that superinduces business and social delirium, auri sacra fames. These were the days of delirium, and he who was not de- lirious might thank his numbness and stupidity for it. California life was but a succession of alternate periods of delirium and apathy. Drinking-saloons were a prominent feature in all the mining camps. Sometimes of logs, sometimes of white cloth nailed over a frame, but usually of boards, lined on the inside with cloth or paper, or both, not more than one or two stories in height, but spreading over considerable ground, they were conspicuous in appearance, and generally occupied a central position. Before the door, or if the weather was cold, inside around the stove, were seats which any one, whether patrons or not, might occupy. On one side of the room was the bar, over which liquor was sold, and in various parts of it were green baize-covered card tables and chairs, where "poker," "seven-up," and " euchre" were played, both for money and for drinks. <One or more large long tables, surrounded by benches FREE LUNCH. 875 and chairs, stood near the centre of the room, where professional gamblers presided, and sometimes two or three billiard tables were placed in the end farthest from the bar. Private rooms for gambling purposes opened from the main saloon, where two or three days were often spent by one party without intermis- sion. At the back door, huge piles of bottles, casks, cans, and cigar and tobacco boxes conveyed some faint idea of the extent of the business within. In the larger saloons tobacco and cigars were sold from a stand fitted up in one corner, and an elaborate luncheon was set out on a table once or twice a day, of which he who bought a drink might partake with- out extra charge. This " free lunch," as it was called, consisted at first of only crackers and cheese, but com- petition gradually enlarged the ideas of saloon propri- etors until finally it grew into a sumptuous repast of soups, fish, roast meats, and side dishes. At these places one could obtain, in addition to a drink which cost perhaps twenty-five cents, a dinner which else- where would cost twice or thrice that sum. As a matter of course there were all grades and descriptions of saloons, from the lowest ** bit " house, where "rot-gut" whisky, "strychnine" brandy, and divers other poisonous compounds with slang names were sold, to the most gorgeous drinking palaces, with large mirrors and magnificent oil paintings, and whose fittings and furnishings alone cost sometimes ten, twenty, or thirty thousand dollars. In 1853 there were in San Francisco 537 places where liquor was sold, 46 of which were public gambling houses, 743 bartenders officiating. No wonder that hard times set in. A thousand leeches, poison-mongers, in half a thousand houses, in a comparatively small society, as San Francisco was then, this alone was enough to bring the curse of God upon the place, not to mention prostitution, political bribery, mercantile dishonesty, and twenty other forms of demoralization. The saloon-keeper was one of the dignitaries of the 676 BRINEmO. town; he interfered to prevent bloodshed, was the umpire in disputes occurring within his precincts, and after the battle attended the wounded, cared for the dying, and buried the dead. In the more lawless dis- tricts, a barricade of bags of sand or other bullet-proof barrier was constructed inside the bar under the counter, so that when shooting became lively the bar- tender had only to drop behind his fortification and be comparatively safe, while those in the middle of the room must drop flat on the floor, or shield their hearts with table, chair, or bench. Comedy, however, was the rule, and tragedy the exception, and the saloon was the scene of many prac- tical jokes. Catch-bets for drinks, and tricks to bring the uninitiated into ridicule and make them " treat, ' commanded the resources of the inventive brain. A common "sell" was for some one, usually a judge or other respectable and dignified personage, to invite the crowd to participate, with the welcome words, " Come, boys, let's all take a drink 1 " Soon the bar is surrounded by a score of ready fellows, each watch- ing in happy mood the concocting of his favorite draught. Touching their glasses all, and bowing ac- knowledgments to their inviter, twenty arms are up- lifted, twenty heads thrown back, twenty watering mouths are opened, and down twenty itching throats twenty nectareous potations erode their way, and as the glasses touch the counter again, the inviter sotto voce observes, "And now, boys, let us all pay foriti" Innumerable were the toasts given; besides the world-wide and stereotyped " I drink your health," "I pledge you," "here is to you," "my regards," "my respects, gentlemen," were local and individual toasts, as well as those improvised for occasions. Usually they were short and caustic. "Here's luck," "here's fun," "here's at you," "here we go," "here's all the hair off^ your head," " I am lookmg towards you," "until to-morrow," "here's another nail iu you: you T adap tome mear fessic noble practj and g derly Dec formir brilliai arm's J ract. nient display list of c There brandy torn an mode taken Sund the gei There there a prospect once the blaspliei lighted «iid chai and tabl of lonel tractive i'nproper sc'on ther as was oft n I THE ARTISTIC BAR-TENDER. 877 your coffin," "here's hoping these few lines will find you enjoying the same blessing." The apt and chameleon-like bar-keeper, who could adapt himself to the color and moods of every cus- tomer, though not a proprietor, was a person of no mean consequence. Studying his business as a pro- fession he rose in it, ennobling himself while he en- nobled his occupation, as he acquired skill. With practice his clumsy fingers became pliable, and bottles and glasses flew from shelf, hand, and counter in or- derly confusion. Decanters tipped their several ingredients into the forming compound with magic nicety, and cascades of brilliant liquids poured from glass to glass held at arm's length with the precision of a rock-bound cata- ract. Nor was the profession restricted in its advance- ment to mere mechanical skill. Ingenuity was displayed in concocting new nectar, and soon a long list of delicious beverages became as household words. There was the champagne cocktail, the mint julep, brandy smash, hot whisky punch, sulky sangaree, tom and jerry, and a host of others, but the usual mode of taking drink was, as most other things were taken in California — straight. Sundays, evenings, and at all times saloons were tlie general rendezvous for the entire population. There loafers congregated and business men met; there all flocked to learn the news, to talk over the prospects of the times, to beguile tedious hours, and once there smoking, drinking, gambling, stag-dances, blasphemous yells, and shooting followed. Brilliantly lighted at night, with a roaring fire in cold weather, and chair and benches on which to sit and smoke, and tables at which to drink and play, in those days of loneliness and discomfort they were the most at- tractive places in the town. Nor was it considered improper or disreputable for a respectable man to be soon there as I have before remarked, even although, as was oftentimes the case, the scene was graced by 078 DRINKING. the presence of the painted jeaebels, and the walls adorned with pictures of female figures with opulent undraped charms, and bunds dispensed loud music to devil-inspired dancers, and the smoky air was thick with oaths and imprecations. " There is nowhere else to go," the solitary and forlorn T*ould say, and when compelled to choose between their miserable homes and these flaunting halls of hell, the average conscience became quite pliable and accommodating. In such society and with such surroundings it was almost impossible for one to live and never drink ; and he who in righteous wrath repudiates the idea as absurd knows nothing about it. Man must associate with his fellows; he cannot long remain alone. Neither can he live long individual and peculiar in his habits unless he be possessed of a hermit's nature — and I know of no hermit who ever came to Cali- fornia. Hence it is, sooner or later, he is bound to fall into the ways of those about him. An invitation to drink, in those days, was almost equivalent to a command, and to decline was frequently to give offense. He who refused was deemed either prudish or churlish, neither of which qualities his companions were disposed long to tolerate. The honest miner, the unshaven, woollen-shirted, drinking, swearing man was the social ideal, it was dangerous for a man to pretend to be better than his fellows. Often men have been mobbed in the mines for wearing a stove- pipe hat, or black coat, or for shaving his chin, or for doing in any way as others did not do. Then if you accept an invitation to drink with others j ou must sometimes return the compliment ; failing to do so is worse than not to drink at all. The English custom which, within the bounds of respectability, limited drinking to dinner and evening did not here obtain. Having just dined was oftener an excuse for declining than a pretext for accepting. Dinner did not divide the day as in older and more staid communities; there was as much to be done ROUGHS AND ROARING CAMPS. 67!) after dinner as before, and people came higher to work ratlier than to enjoy themselves. Every moment not devoted to the accomplishment of the purpose that tore them from home and friends seemed wasted. To drink alone was to demean one's self; it smacked too niuch of drinking for the love of it, which even in their wild times, and notwithstanding all men did it, was held disgraceful. Such a one was cither an *onery cuss* or a 'whiskey-bloat,' or both; and so with the high-minded and open-handed, the bar- keeper must drink if there was no one else available. Not unfrequently in the remoter and more isolated camps, from snow or flood, supplies would become low and prices advance enormously. In such cases a scarcity of food was more philosophically endured than the total absence of liquor and tobacco. After such a season of abstinence, the first train arriving would be surrounded by a crowd of thirsty souls with bottles, cups, coffee-pots, and saucepans, all eager for a supply of the precious liquid. Ten dollars was once offered for the privilege of using a straw at the bung of a keg of New England rum. Excess followed as a matter of course, and soon every phase of inebriety was manifest, from prattling jocundity to roaring intoxication. Patriotism would break forth in song and dance ; wliitli thick tongues and husky throats the sons of Erin would sound the glories of the Emerald Isle, the Germans of their fatherland, the Frenchmen of sweet France; Yankees apostro- phized their growing country. Englishmen chal- lenged all the world to mortal combat, Spaniards, mounted on mule or mustang, dug their long rowels into the animal's bleeding sides, and rushed hither and thither making the hills ring with their delirious shouts. Old quarrels were revived, and the flash of steel and discharge of revolvers, as much to the dan- er of bystanders as to the combatants themselves, ent their peculiar charm to the occasion. Iklany drank spasmodically ; hard workers attending 680 DRINKING. closely to business for days and weeks without touch- ing a drop of liquor, then took to drink for a day or a week, r nd after their debauch returned to their work with new vigor. Business is one thing and pleasure another, they say — one should be wholly distinct from the other. In Europe all drink and without ceasing, but usually in moderation, fend mixed with their work which is light ; in California the two were somewhat separated, and the work was harder. Gulliver assured his horse friends, the Houyhnhnms, "that wine was not imported among us from foreign countries to supply the want of water or other drinks, but because it was a sort of liquid which made us merry, by putting us out of our senses, diverted all melancholy thoughts, begot wild extravagant imagin- ations in the brain, raised our hopes and banished our fears, suspended every oftl 3 of reason for a time, and deprived us of the use of our limbs, till we fell hito a profound sleep, although it must be confessed that we always awoke sick or dispirited, and that the use of this liquor filled us witli diseases which made our lives uncomfortable and short." This was at a time when Swift's contemporary. Sir Richard Steel, says of England that "the common amusement of our young gentlemen, especially of such as are at a distance from those of the first breeding, is drinking." And furthermore that "it is very common that evils arise from a debauch which are Mital, and always such as are disagreeable." There are many like the learned Samuel Johnson and Hazlitt, who can abstain wholly, but who cannot practise abstinence. There are men, who from their very nature, can do nothing in moderation. Men of genius, particularly, being of necessity unevenly bal- anced in mind, tend to every species of excess. Broad laxity follows severe effort, and free indulgence tem- porary abstinence. For '.any years Johnson drank no wine; but toward his latter days he took it up SOME OLD-TIME DRINKERS. 681 again, and greedily swallowed large goblets of drink, niostly in private. Often he advised Boswell to abandon the bottle, but Bozzy loved his potationt;, and preferred his sottish enjoyments to any other. Johnson. "I did not leave off wine because I could not bear it ; I have drunk three bottles of port without being the worse for it. University college has witnessed this." Boswell. " Why, then sir, did you leave it off?" Johnson. " Why, sir, because it is so much better for a man to be sure that he is never to be intoxi- cated, never to lose the power over himself I shall not begin to drink wine again till I grow old and want it." Boswell. " I think, sir, you once said to me that not to drink wine was a great deduction from life." Johnson. "It is a diminution of pleasure, to be sure ; but I do not say a diminution of happiness. There is more happiness in being rational." A Boswell will tell you that benevolence lies at the root of drunkenness. A friend asks you to drink with him, your entertainer begs you to take wine with him, and rather than offend, or seem discourteous, or send a chill round the table, you throw aside your scruples, drink once, then again and again, and soon know next to nothing. The practice of urging persons to drink cannot be too plainly condemned. To some, drink is dis- tasteful, to others hurtful, to others maddening, to not a few — death. It may be pleasure for him who can with ease command his appetite, for him to whom ex- cess in drink has no temptations, by appealing to friendship, good-fellowship, and in the name of hospi- tality to wrap around those he pretends to love a sheet of flaming fire which shall consume them. Said Sir Joshua Reynolds, " At first the taste of wine was disagreeable to me, but I brought myself to drink it that I might be like other people. The pleasure of drinking wine is so connected with pleasing 682 DRINKINO. your company, that altogether there is something of social goodness in it." Though wine may make us better pleased with our- selves, it does not always make others better pleased with us. Such is not always the effect, I say, but sometimes it is. Many become more agreeable in society as they forget themselves, so that they do not go too far and forget others. Although drink fur- nishes one with neither wit nor learnhig, it often breaks down the barriers and liberates such abilities as be- fore were confined. It anlraatcL what before was dormant. It thaws congealed ideas, and unlocks the tongue. The effect of this may be pleasing or otherwise. After all it is a skulking for brilliant effect which manliness despises. Better a mind so cultivated and manners so assured that a man can be as much him- self while in his senses, as when beside himself When alone, as well as when in company, laboring under a humiliating sense of awkwardness or inferi- ority, many drink to get rid of themselves. They would send their thoughts far away from themselves, from the proximate objects and events that annoy them to more pleasing scenes and subjects. Thus wine gives pleasure by taking from us pain. And in every pleasure we have the right to indulge unless it brings evil upon ourselves or others. Then the right is no longer ours. A good which is counterbalanced by an evil is not good but evil, as it tends to evil, and is but the pleasurable beginning of an evil which has a pain- ful ending. There is little difference between drunkenness and insanity, and you may as well look for fixed resolve and determinate principle in an idiot as in the hab- itual drunkard. Having passed certain stages, he is absolutely powerless to reform; and when jeers and insults are heaped upon one of these unfortunates, one hardly knows which to pity most, the sot or the in- human rabble ; when one sees the so-called respectable INTEMPERANCE AND IMBECILITY. 68S of untried virtue, scoff at the fallen of any quality, one hardly knows which to pity most, the vanquished fight' r of life's battle, or the pharisee, proud in in being so unlike these publicans. How the big, blustering coward is sometimes de- ceived by the slender form, and modest demeanor, and thin, pale face which often cover firmness and true courage I Yet the closer observer sees in the eye, and mouth, and features, lineaments as plainly indica- tive of character as lines chiseled by the sculpter's graver. Once there was a half-drunken Irishman at Foster's bar who attempted to force a small, sickly-looking youth to drink. Seizing the boy by the arm, he dragged him to the counter where a glass stood ready. " Drink that or I'll murder you," said the Irishman. "I will not," calmly replied the boy, not a trace of color appearing in his face. "Then, damn you, you shall clear out I" exclaimed the infuriated Irishman, and taking the boy by the collar of his shirt he kicked him into the street. The youth caught the awning-post with his left arm and continued to swing round it, boy like. His right hand he put behind him. " You dare not follow me out," said he, in the same low, passionless voice which had characterized his whole conversation. Instantly the Irishman made a spring at him. The boy swung himself once or twice round the post to gather force; then as he came round he sprang upon his burly foe and drove a long, sharp, double-edged knife into his breast kilhng him instantly. The boy was tried and acquitted. Rum has ruined its thousands, is still ruining them. War with all its horrors, pestilence, and famine are harmless as compared with the deadly work of the demon drink. A five years' war four times every century, each as disastrous to life as was that for the Union, would not kill as many men as excessive drinking now is killing every day. Dead they are, m DRINKINO, though their vile breath has not yet left the body, and though their staggerings betoken corporeal animation. '* I have bought my ticket through," said a poor heart-broken wretch as he stood upon the wharf in conversation with a friend while waiting the departure of the steamer. He was a young man, not yet thirty, tall, well built, and intellectual, but his dress betokened poverty. Broken sentences came through quivering lips ; despair was pictured in his face, and in his eyes stood moisture wrung by misfortune from the heart. " I have bought my ticket through," he said, "but I shall not go home. Seven years I have spent in California, and all that time I have drunk to excess. What is home to me now — home without hope? Doubtless I shall join Walker, in Nicaragua; I care not what becomes of me 1 " So have sunk from sight a hundred thousand and more of the immigration of the first decade. CHAPTER XXIIL GAMBLING. (htio, I believe in dioet Without a penny for the price, Full often have they got me meat, Good wine to drink and friends to treat; And sometimes, too, when luck went worse. They've stripped me clean of robe and purse. —RuUif(f^f, There needeth not the hell that bigots frame To punish those who err; earth in itself Contains at once the evil and the cure; And all-suflicing nature can chastise Those who transgress Iier law — she only knows How justlv to proportion to the fault The punishment it merits. —Shelley. Johnson. Depend upon it, sir, this is mere talk. Who is ruined by gaming? You will not tind six instances in an age. There is a strange rout made about deep play, whereas you have many more people ruined by ad- venturous trade, and yet we do not hear such an outcry against it. Thrale. There may I>e few absolutely ruined by deep play, but very many are much hurt in their circumstances bv it. Johnson. Yes, sir, and so are very many by other kinds of expense. • • • » • • • Johnson. It is not roguery to play with a man who is ignorant of the game while you are master of it, and so win his money, for he thinks he can play better than you, as you think you can play better tlian he, and the su- perior skill carries it. Erskine. He is a fool, but you are not a rogue. Johnson. That's much about the truth, sir. It must be considered that a man who only does what every one of the society to which he belongs would do, is not a dishonest man. BoswelL So, then, sir, yon do not think ill of a man who wins, perhaps, forty thousand pounds in a winter T Johnson. Sir, I do not call a gamester a dishonest man, but I call him an unsocial man, an unprofitable man. Gaming is a mode of transferring prop- erty without producing any intermediate good. Trade gives employment to numbers, and so produces mtermediate g<rad. — BonotWa Johnton. A PRIMARY principle of ethics is that every indi- vidual may freely act his pleasure as long as he docs not interfere with the rights of othere. He may claim for himself every gratification which does not (685) 680 OAMBUNO. limit others in their gratifications. He may come and go, he may buy and sell, he may marry, preach, or develop a mine, and in all this legitimately better his condition, provided he does not make worse the condition of those, or any of them, with whom he comes in contact. The true theory of business is that traffic which does not result in reciprocal advantages to buyer and seller is illegitimate, or at least abnormal. Let it be registered in men's minds that he who accumulates wealth to the loss of another is a bad man following a bad business. He is a swindler, and should be pun- ished as one. In this way men may build railroads; but they must not employ the power thus acquired in imposi- tions upon the people, subsidizing competition to keep up iniquitous prices, buying legislators, and corrupt- ing morals and society, building up or ruining this man or that town or industry, and exercising a hate- ful tyranny over a long-suffering and pusillanimous people. Men may buy and sell wheat, but they may not so ' corner ' it as by their trickery to make con- sumers pay twice or thrice its value. Men may in good faith develop mines; but the manipulation of mining stocks as practised by brokers and* bonanza chiefs is worse than ordinary gambling and stealing — being more on a par with three-card monte, and like cheating and confidence games. We all know the evils of gambling ; how It dissat- isfies society in its daily occupations, absorbs thought, dissipates energy, and renders men unfit for that stca'iy application and reasonable economy which alono make a community prosperous. It destroys the fuu;r qualities both of mind and feeling; it makes men moody and nervous, makes them live a life of extremes, now exhilarated by success, now despondent through failure. What folly I Some play for money, but with the percentage against them they should know that in the end they are sure to lose. Some ploy for pie they must k that is sure Epicurus ( No one has 1 ure in any n "This kind therefore ess cultivates a ] deterioration occupations u money receiv Is not socie am>', prostltu dined to carr^ gambling gan of our way t questionably i gamblers. T] wax cards or variety of wa; an inferior art due advantage who will not that as a rule ing and overrt than in the s many of the assert that thi political, comm trated by the one day than U tutes, and poly: Since very ej famous by mos a gamester to laws against ^ Saturnalia, wert theless the peo FOR PROFIT OR PLEASURE. 687 ploy for pleasure ; but if thev ponder for a moment they must know that like dnnk it is but a pleasure that is sure to end in pain. Epicurus dcnouncecfall pleasures productive of pain. No one has the moral right to obtam money or pleas- ure in any manner detrimental to public well-being. "This kind of action," says Herbert Spencer, "is therefore essentially anti-aocial, sears the sympathies, cultivates a hard egotism, and so produces a general deterioration of character and conduct." All moral occupations imply the rendering of an equivalent for money received. Is not society here, as in other cases, such as polyg- amy, prostitution, monopoly, and mongolianism, in- clined to carry the sentiment against the professional gambling game to an extreme ? Why go so far out of our way to play the prude or hypocrite? Un- questionably there are honest gamblers and dishonest gamblers. There are professional gamblers who will wax cards or use an imperfect pack, or cheat in a variety of ways, just as a shop-keeper will sell you an inferior article, overcharge, or otherwise take un- due advantage ; there are gamblers and shop-keepers who will not do these things. It is safe to assert that as a rule there is proportionately no more cheat- ing and overreaching in the clubrooms of our cities than in the stock boards of our cities, or in very many of the avenues of commerce. It is safe to assert that there is more iniquity committed, more political, commercial, and social demoralization perpe- trated by the monopolists of the United States in one day than is achieved by all the gamblers, prosti- tutes, and polygamists in a twelve-month. Since very early times gambling has been held in- famous by most civilized nations. Aristotle declared a gamester to be no better than a thief. Stringent laws against games of hazard, except during the Saturnalia, were passed by the Roman senate; never- theless the people played. Jews, Mahometans, and i 688 GAMBLING. Christians all set their faces against games of chance. The Talmud censures them. No Hindoo gambler was allowed to testify in courts. The duke of Clai- eiice in 1469 prohibited gambling in his household except at the '* xii dayes in Christmasse." Silly Charles VI. of France played with painted cards ; some say they were first made for his use in 1392, though of this there is no proof; since which time the mischief has often been played with them, though this was not the fault of the cards. During the reign of Henry VII. card-playing was very generally in vogue ; so much so that it was prohib- ited by law. Apprentices the edict especially regarded, forbidding them to play with cards except during the Christmas holidays, and in their master's houses. Peculiar as was the character of some of the wagers in California, there were none here so inde- cent or irreverent as were exposed by the law courts of England fifty years ago — instance the case of Joanna Southcote, an unmarried woman, upon whose delivery of a male child, a new Messiah, within cer- tain days was bet £200 to £100; a wager that Napoleon would be removed from St Helena within a certain time, a wager upon the sex of a feminine- looking man, upon a decree of a court, upon the death of one's father, and the like. The merchant does not grow rich, as moralists sometimes aver, by the debauched lives of the young, nor the husbandman by the scarcity and consequent dearness of his grain, nor the architect by the deca}'^ of buildings. It is true that doctors live by the diseases of mankind, and priests by the principle of evil, and lawyers by disputes. Grood springs from evil, and life from death. As Montague says, *' Ce que considerant, il m'est venu en fantasie, comme nature ne se desment point en cela de sa general polici, car les physiciens tiennent que la naissance, nourissement, et augmentation de chacque chose est I'altdration et corruption d'une aultre." CHANCE OR SUPERSTITION. 689 Some teach us how to be learned, others how to bo rich, and others, again, how to bo lucky. Gamblers liave their doctrine of chances and runs of luck. Thus, if a particular number or card wins twice or thrice in succession, the chances are in favor of its winning once or twice more. Chance is a superstition; tlierc is no such thing as accident, no deviation from the inexorable laws of na- ture, any more than there is a veritable war-god, weather-god, or Great Cloud Manipulator. The laws of fortune are not unjust norpartial because they tend to unequal favors. We may not blaspheme fortune for sending the ball into the wrong pocket, when with our own hand we forced it there ; or for jliv'ing us inferior cards, when with our own finjjcers we shuttled and dealt them. Like all the laws of na- ture and of man, the laws which govern chance are reasonable and just. Tliore is no guardian angel or spiteful demon lurking near the cards or dice to turn them in our favor. We turn them with t)ur fingers. The operation is jairely a n)echanical one. Put the dice into the cup always exactly hi tlie same manner, and shake tliem alwa3's the same, and the same side is always sure to be up[)ermost. It is not true that the dice of the gods arc always loaded. Men may load their dice to suit themseh'^es, and blind chance be frustrated if tliey have the ability. That is to say, dice will fall as they are thrown and there is no chance about it, Gaml)i iig is reprobate not chiefly because it tends to the ruin cfliira who indulges in it, his family and friends ; not chiefly because of its evil associations and aliena- tion from healthy pursuits, but because it produces profit and pleasure to one at the cost of loss and pain to another. It nmst be admitted that while many came to California to seek their fortunes, some came to seek for other people's fortunes. We are apt to regard gambling, drunkenness, licen- tiousness, indulgence in the use of tobacco and the Cal. Int. I'of. 44 r •.'if GAMBUNG. like, as unnatural or artificial tastes and passions. But is this the fact ? Gambling has been practised by all people in all ages. In the infancy of the race, and in rude societies, it assumes the form of games, physical and animal contests ; in more advanced com- munities, stocks and securities become the favorite gamble, and indeed, the spirit of gambling underlies all commerce and industrial activities. And so with regard to the other vices named, there appears to be in man natural appetites craving indulgence. Intox- icating drink is common to all time and places and to avoid excess in this or other things is simply perfec- tion. Why did all the world take so quickly and so naturally to the use of tobacco when it was discovered, if the craving for it did not spring fron. a natural appetite ? So with a hundred other great and small ly fannies and swindles, such as those so frequently perpetrated by gas and water companies, by boards and oflfice- holders, by men in any and every position where they happen to hold some power over their fellows. So long asthese gross iniquities are permitted ; so long as the grinding monopolist and the unprincipled stock-jobber ate permitted to ply their nefarious trade, why be so harden the honest gambler who stoops to no such vile advantage ? He, alone, who makes it a profession is disgraced. He, alone, is infamous. An honest man he may be, courteous, chivalrous, unselfish, yet the filthiest blackguard that * bucks' against his bank may hold him in social contempt. The prudish English put the finest point on this absurdity. It is all right to play whist and liko games, all betting "just to make it interesting, you know," all of necessity pretending that they care nothing for the money ; but change the game, and bet a little more freely, and the clergymen and women particularly are horrified. The game of poker is be- coming reputable in America among free-and asy and not over-refined people, provided the stak' »< . vfi DISTINCTIONS WITHOUT A DIFFERENCE. G»l not too high. But what are high stakes ? In a com- pany of spinsters, in the drawing-room of a second- class Connecticut boarding-house, five cents 'ante' might be deemed extravagant, while in the south, during the glorious days of slavery, a negro ante and twenty on the call was deemed moderate playing. All these distinctions are without a difference ; aiid men and women miserably fail in thus trying to befool themselves into making certain phases of gambling respectable while holding other phases of it, equally honest and fair, as illegal and disreputable. On a par with the rest are the English ethics which makes it right to swindle your taflor, but very wrong not to pay a gambling debt. Debts of honor, these last are called. Of course there are always a thousand excuses ready for whatever folly or iniquity society chooses to indulge in. Gambling in stocks encourages mining ; gambling at the races promotes horse-breeding; gambling in churches helps to buy an organ or pay a debt. But have we no excuses for our honest banking games ? Listen to Lecky, the foremost of English moralists: "Even the gambling table fosters among its more skillful votaries a kind of moral nerve, a capacity for bearing losses with calmness, and controlling the force of desires, which is scarcely exhibited in equal perfec- tion in any other sphere." Likewise the immaculate Boswell, whose name, however, is scarcely worthy of mention in connection with the other: "There is a composure and gravity in draughts which insensibly tranquillizes the mind, and accordingly the Dutch are fond of it, as they are of smoking, of the sedative in- fluence of which, though he himself never smoked, he had a high opinion. Besides, there is in draughts some exercise of the faculties." Dishonest gamblers sometimes mark their cards with punctures so minute as to be imperceptible to the ordinary touch, and to detect them themselves they are obliged to apply acid to the fingers to increase I : 692 GAMBLING. their sensitiveness. .^uch disreputable practices should be discountenanced by all good gamblers, the same as putting sand in sugar, discriminating in freights, and salting a mine. The evils of stock gambling, ruining thousands upon thousand of families in the city and throughout the land, as compared with those of professional gambling, are infinitely against the former. Nowhere as in this mad desire to be suddenly and immensely rich were the souls of men so staked. It was worse than Me- phistopheles betting with the Lord that the integrity of Faust should fail him, or Satan laying a like wager ■p regard to Job. • •-rotwithstanding that mining since the world began luiA boon a hundred times proven the most ruinous of speculations, to this day wherever is a discovery of the precious metals, thither may be seen a rush from every quarter. "K man who subjects things to chance rather than to tlio operation of definite and calculable laws, gam- bles," says Bcecher. Here in California the advice of Plautus, " Habeas ut nactus : nota mala res optima' st," " keep what you've got ; the evil that we know is best," was sadly out of place. To be "ptuck in stocks," made sweating sore by them, screwed lighter in them than the village villain's feet in that old-time punishing-machine, was at one time common to all. In stock speculation there' is wanting that same element of utility which we find lacking in faro and monte, and by which alone society is benefited in the interchange of values among its members. In ordi- nary transactions, he who makes money is not bene- fited as much as he suffers who loses it, and in gambling the difference is largely increased. What is it that causes the price of stocks to change? What is it that causes any fluctuations in values when there has been no corresponding develop- ment in the mines or change in the money market? nicn talJizf inqui] < »rac]( any They knowi to gar ing Ii STOCKS AND OTHER SPECULATION^. 093 Opinion ; simply opinion. In all their politics, religion, and social ethics, men are essentially imitative in their beliefs. Now money being as sensitive as any species of morality is very quick to embrace popular belief without stopping to consider whether it be sound or not. Indeed, that it is the popular belief is sufficient ; for this alone will send securities up or pull them down. And the worst feature about all this is that the people do not buy and sell stocks on the intrinsic value of the mine; they care nothing about such value, do not take it into consideration scarcely, but gamble to-day on what will be the price of shares to-morrow. The rise and fall in stocks may sometimes indicate the demand and supply, which again are governed by the disposition of men to purchase more than nitrinsic value or change of condition justify. If nuiiiy per- sons at tlie same time seek to buy large quantities of a stock it is sure to advance; if tliey all at one time wisli to soil it is sure to go down. And yet the mine may bo twice as valuable when it depreciates as when it appreciates. Hard times, commercial collapses, monetary crises are oftener the result of apprehension tlian of a real cause. When every one says times are good and acts accordingly, investing, improving, circulating liis nioni!}', that alone will make business nnd prosperity. But as a rule it is safe to say of stock-boards, build- ings, and the mass of wealtli heaped up by bonanza men and stock-i(/bbers, that tliev all are but tlie crvs- tallizatioji« of crime. To tlieir dearest friends who inquired of them as to their fortune, they were false oracles, ready to sacrifice heaven, if tliey ever had any chance there, in order to fill tlieir pockets. They would cheat, mother, brother, and I have even known of a man giving his wife money witli wliich to gamble in stocks, simply for the pleasure of beat- ing her out of it. Meanwhile, into all sorts of I': m % ;i 694 CrAMBLTNG. extravagance their victims plunged," as if their money was immortal. In the early days of California gambling was but a more direct expression of the spirit of speedy accu- mulation manifest in common and in so-called legiti- mate speculation. Mining, merchandising, real estate operations in those days of uncertainty were all species of gambling. The coming hither in the first instance was but a staking of time, energy, and health against the hidden treasures of the Sierra. The origin of this vice must be sought in the un- sounded depths of turbid human nature ; its practice dates back to the remotest past. Thousands of years before the coming of Europeans to these shores gaming was the chief delight of the inhabitants. The gentle savage would stake on some aboriginal game of chance or skill his shell-money, his peltries, his hunting and household implements, his wives, with an outward indifference as to the results that in 1849 would have made him the envy of the subtlest and skilfullest faro dealer of the day. Losing all else he would throw himself, his liberty into the pot, and losing this he would march off, the naked slave of the winner, with a stoicism most pleasing to behold. The European with all his superior mechan- ism of mind, his culture and philosophy, has never l)een able to outdo the childlike and passionate wild man in those qualities of skill and self-command essential to success in this fascinating calling. From what Horace tells us it appears that the vice was not prohibited by the Romans on account of its demoralizing tendency, but because it diverted the youths from manly sports and made them effeminate. And so in later times, and among other peoples, it was not so much the rioting and drunkenness and murders it led to, as the blow it aimed at the moral ideal of the nation, that made it offensive. In early times the ethical ideal was patriotism ; and as gaming LEGAL AND ILLEGAL GAMBLING. ees interfered with military art it was put down. In California the central idea embodying the right in social ethics is what comes under the name of legiti- mate money-making. Here the great good is not patriotism, art, or literature, but the accumulation of wealth ; not, however, by such processes as shall in- jure or make your neighbor poorer, but by originating, creating, or producing, making additions to the gen- eral fund, but which you may hold as your own. Here, gambling interfered with that labor which was to eviscerate the Sierra drainage, and develop the resources of the lowlands, as in Rome it interfered with the making of good soldiers; and so, later, Cali- fornia passed laws that drove it under cover, but its spirit still stalks abroad, and enters into almost every avocation. One sees it in the speculations of labor- ing men, in the ventures of merchants outside of their regular business, in the gift enterprise shops, in the church-fair raffle and grab-bag. As I have be- fore stated, buying shares in the stock market in the hope of a rise not based on development is as pure gambling as putting money on a monte card, and its evil effects are seen by the hundreds of working men practically ruined thereby. Of the two evils, the open and public gaming-table and stock-gambling, I hold the latter to be more deleterious to society, for it is but the old wicked principle galvanized, and made respectable by law. A lottery, legalized by the legislature for the benefit of the Mercantile library of San Francisco, caused for a short time an almost entire suspension of business for a hundred miles around During the pastoral days of California, men were free, and might gamble if they chose. It came rather hard on them, therefore, when the straight- laced Yankee alcalde of Monterey placed a veto on the pastime. Says the reverend jurist on the subject, writing the 18th of October, 1846: " I issued, a few days since, an ordinance against gambling — a vice t" ■i I GAMBLING. which shows itself here more on the sabbath than any other day of the week. The effect of it has been to drive the gamblers from the town into the bushes. I have been informed this evening, that in a ravine, at a short distance, some thirty individuals have been engaged through the day in this desperate play. They selected a spot deeply embowered in shade, and escaped the eye of my constables." On the 12th of May following, the order was thus enforced : "A nest of gamblers arrived in town yes- terday, and last evening opened a monte game at the hotel honored with the name of the Astor House. I took a file of soldiers, and under cover of night reached the hotel unsuspected, where I stationed them at the two doors which afforded the only egress from the building. In a moment I was on the stairs which led to the a[)artment where the oamesters were conjxrcijated. I heard a whistle and then footsteps flying into every part of the edifice. On entering the great chamber, not a being was visi- ble save one Sonoranian reclininor a<jainst a lar<je ta- ble, and composedly smoking his cigarito. I passed the compliments of the evening with him, and de- sired the honor of an introduction to his companions. At the moment a feigned snore broke on my ear from a bed in the corner of the apartment — * Ha 1 Dutrc, is that you ? Come, tumble up, and aid me in stir- ring out the rest.' He pointed under the bed, where I discovered, just within the drop of the vallance a nmltitude of feet and leos radiatiuij as from a connnon center. 'Hallo there, friends — turn out," and out came some half-dozen or more, covered with dust and feathers, and odorous as the nameless furniture left behind. Their plight and discovery threw them into a laugh at each other. FroiU this apartment, accom- panied by my secretary, I proceeded to others, where I found the slopers stowed away in every imaginable position — some in the beds, some under them, several in closets, two in a hogshead, and one up a chimney. MONTEREY AND SAN FRANCISCO. 697 Mr R. from Missouri — known here under the sou- briquet of the 'prairie-wolf — I found between two bedticks, with his coat and boots on, and half smoth- ered with the feathers. He was the ringleader, and raises a nionte table wherevei he goes as regularly as a whale comes to the surface to blow. All shouted as he tumbled out from his ticks. Among the rest I found the alcalde of San Francisco, a gentleman of education and refinement, who never plays himself, but who, on this occasion, had come to witness the excitement. I gathered them all, some fifty in num- ber, into the large saloon, and told them the only speech I had to make was in the shape of a fine of /wenty dollars each. The more astute began to demur on the plea of not guilty, as no cards and no money had been discovered; and as for tlie beds, a man had as good a right to sleep under one as in it. I told them that it was a matter of taste, misfortune often made strange bedfellows, and the only way to get out of the scrape was to pay up. Dr S. was the first to plank down. 'Come, my good fellows,' said the doctor, 'pay up, and no grumbling, tliis money goes to build a schoolhouse, where I hope our chil- dren will be taught better principles than they gather from the example of their fathers.' The 'prairie-wolf,' planked down next, and in ten minutes the whole Chillanos, Sonoranians, Orogonians, Californians, Englices, Americanos, delivered in their fines. These, with the hundred dollar fine of the keeper of the hotel, filled quite a bag. With this I bade them goodnight, and took my departure." The town council of San Francisco, on the 11th day of January, 1848, passed stringent resolutions against gambling which had then been on the increase for four years past. So startling were the proportions it had assumed, and so enraptured were the people by the fascinating vice that it seriously interfered with business; but a great reform was considered out of place in a small town, and therefore at the next t>U8 GAMBLING. meeting of the council the law was repealed, Icavintr everythhig lovely in this respect for the great Inferno now so near at hand. Some were of the opinion that gambling should not be interfered with by law any more than interest on money or the sale of intoxicating liquors. To extin- guish this vice, said they, was impossible ; the passion appears to be deep-seated in man's nature, alike in high and low, civilized and savage. The principle is one with that of speculation, and tinges even commer- cial ventures. As is often claimed for religion, there never has been known a nation without its gambling games of some sort. So, continued these reasonera, it is better to license the vice, give the state the rev- enue, and not make it a crime, than to drive it into dark comers and guarded club-rooms, for it is not that which is done in public that does the most harm. Men will not voluntarily exhibit their worst side to the world. He who ruins himself and family at the gaming-table does it generally in private. Then, too, the opportunities for practising the arts and devices of the trade are much greater than at a table in a public room, surrounded by scores of eyes as keen and as watchful as those of the dealer. Gambling in San Francisco was tolerated for the revenue that was derived from it, long after public opinion was against it. In due time the saloons, those impious, blazing land- marks, had to give way before a revised public sen- timent. The old El Dorado, corner of Dupont and Washington streets, was one of the last to succumb. In full blast from 1850 till 1856, there were nightly collected the largest crowds of the worst of all classes, all who had a few dollars to gamble — that is, until public gaming was prohibited — or an hour's time to while away, gazing at the people coming and going, at the nude pictures on the walls, and the movements of the barkeepers, and listening to the chink of coin, and the really fine music of the band. About the time SOME NOTABLE SHOPS. 699 this, one of the last relics of gambling saloons, fell forever out of sight, a new iron fence enclosed the plaza, fresh grass covered its hitherto unsightly face, and the citizens of San Francisco looked hopefully forward to the good time which had been so long in coming. The gambler is almost always well dressed. No class in California are so scrupulously neat in all their belongings. Nor is he always an idler, knave, or fool. He knows that his profession is not ranked among the most honorable, but he does not intend always to follow it. He would make a fortune and then retire. He is not without generous impulses, but they spring, like the sympathy of a spoiled child or the passion of a femme perdu, from apparently trifling causes rather than from principle. The Alta of the 27th of May, 1850, announces the completion of the Empire gambling saloon and the main floor of the Parlcer House as one would speak of the opening of the Suez canal or the bridging of Niagara. "The room is about 140 feet in length," says the editor, "by 50 in width, with a lofty ceiling, and is decorated in the most magnificent manner. It is painted in fresco by Messrs Fairchild and Duchean, and is certainly a most creditable evidence of their artistic skill and taste. We do not know of any pub- lic room in any portion of the United States of so great an extent, or possessing such elegant decorations and embellishments. Our New Orleans and New York friends would scarcely believe that they could be so far excelled in California. The Parker House, the lower floor, was also opened. The room is of about the same size, and hanrlsomely fitted up, al- though not with quite so mucij * legance as the Em- pire. As yet but one story is completed, but it is con- templated to carry out the entire building on the same extensive and elegant plan. The rapidity with which these places of public resort have been completed speaks much for the enterprise of the proprietors." i'.'i nil 700 GAMBLING. A writer in the Marysville Herald iaL*s discourses on banking games. "A banking game," he says, "is any kind of game played with cards, dice, or other device, in which one or more persons risk their money in opposition to the nmltitude. The banker may be denominated, in the parlance of the day, the inside bettor, and the populace the outside bettors. A man, for instance, who deals monte, places before him on the table a thousand dollars, more or less, in money. He shuffles and deals the fcards, lays two of them out before the multitude, and asks them to stake their money on a guess of which card will win. In this case the dealer of the cards would be the banker, or the inside bettor, whilst those who wagered their money on a guess would be the outside bettors. So in any other game of chance, where there is an inside bettor and an outside bettor, tlie inside bettor is al- ways looked upon as the banker. He pays out to all who win from him, and takes in all that the outsiders lose. The games that coir immediately under the head of banking games, ai which there is no dis- pute, are faro, Mexican raoute, French monte, rouge et noir, twenty-one, and most other games played with cards ; also roulette, the tiger, elephant, and other wheel games of similar character, sweat cloths, and all other games played with dice, and many other kinds of games not necessary to enumerate. " Lansquenet and rondo differ from other bankin;j; games in this particular: The banker in the games <>f monte or faro deals himself, and permits all wiio wish it to bet against him; whilst in lansquenet and rondo the bank is generally made by an outsider, and con- sists of a certain specified sum, which may be tapped by one or more persons, as circumstances will atlniit of. It is not necessary that the banker in lansquenet or rondo should deal himself; any person may do it for him, but the man who throws up his dollar to 1)0 tapped is as much a banker as he would be if sitting behind a table with a bank of a thousand dollars deal- BANKINd (;AMES. 701 ing montc. Lansquenet is dealt with cards, generally out of a faro box, or sardine box, as it is called. Rondo is played upon a billiard table with eight small balls, each ball about the size of a quail's egg, or somewhat larger, and depends upon the skill of the l»anker, or his substitute, in rolling an even imniber of balls into a pocket. If an odd number enters the pocket, it is called culo, and the banker loses; if an even number of balls be pocketed, it is called rondo, and the banker wins. On each winning the stake is doubled. As, for instance, if the banker connuences with a half dollar and makes a rondo, he has a dollar in bank; on a second winning he would have two dol- lars in bank, and so on, doubling the stake at each winning, unless he sees proper to draw out a portion of his capital, which he can do whenever he i)leas('S. After each second wiiming the table or gamekee[>er draws out one hnlf of the original amount invested, as a percentage. This is the game of rondo. "tfustice Jenks of Sacramento, in an elaborate opinion, defines a bankuig game as signifying one in which the manager ()r conductor not only receives tlie stakes, but also on his own part makes a bank against them ; that is, when the conductor stakes his own funds against the stakes of all others who participate in the game. " Webster defines a bank to be a collection or stock of money deposited by a number of persons for a par- ticular use, that is, an aggregate of particulars, or a fund that is a joint fund; the place where a collection of money is deposited, etc. Justice Jenks, in com- menting upon this definition of a bank, says : ' It is not necessary that the conductor or manager of the game should own part of the money. It is sufficient that a fund is raised, and by any device whatever, that fund, or any part of it, changes hands by chance or by skill in playing. The learned justice further remarks, that in playing rondo two funds are raised, one against the other, and these funds are as much p. ri ■'i!l! ' . 702 GAMBLING banks as though OM^ned by the person who keeps the tabic' The justice, in concluding his opinion, says, 'the coincidence existing between the game of lansque- net, expressly classed by the statute in the list of banking games, and the game in question, rondo, compels me to decide by the rule of construction wliich the statute gives — rondo is a banking game.' " Now we agree perfectly with Justice Jenks. If lansquenet is a banking game, so is rondo. They are precisely similar, although one is played with cards and the other with balls. The banks in both are made by outsiders. Tlie table-keepers in both games have no interest except in the percentage, and in playing either game, it is not necessary that the per- son who makes the banks should participate in either drawing the cards from the box or rolling the balls into a pocket. It was clearly the manifest intention of our lawmakers to put an end to all kinds of gam- bling in our state ; and although the word rondo does not appear among the proscribed games in the law of last winter, we are clearly of the opinion that it is proscribed by that law." From the time of the gold discovery, which made all around of the roseate hue, there was an openness in all kinds of wickedness, a dash and abandon quite refreshing. Perhaps they play as heavily at the London gaming houses, and at the German springs, but the charm and freshness of unhackneyed nature is not there. In London, or even at the German springs, one would not often see a Sydney convict, a i'lergyman not three months from his preaching, a Harvard graduate, a Pennsylvania farmer, and a New York newsboy all betting at the same table at the same time. In California gambling there is little attempt at that quasi-respectability, or, more plainly speaking, humbug, with which the lovers of a money hazard would fain gloss over their whist, chess, or horse- PERSONNEL OF THE PliOFESSION. 708 racing. It is the money men gamble for here, and they have no hesitation in saying so; hence, in a promiscuous assembly, each is attracted to such game as he fancies himself an adept in. The billiard-player gambles at pool, the card-sharper at poker, euchre, or old sledge, the lover of horses at racing, while the unskilled or indifferent lay down their gold at roulette, faro, or monte, notwithstanding in banking games the table has twenty or thirty per cent the advantage. The open-handed well-to-do Californian who flings his dollars around for the mere pleasure of seeing others scramble for them would call staking a few hundreds fun rather than gambling ; but the individ- ual earnest and constant at the tables, whatever the game or the amount staked, you may be sure is after * blood,' as he hiinself would tell you. There is the legitimate gambler, one who keeps a table and pays his dues to society in shape of license, rent, and bar bills, like an honest citizen. Then there is the professional gambler, who, like the itinerant preacher, may have an occupation without fixed abode. He may deal, or *cap,' or bet on the outside; he may grace this or that house or town as circumstances offer. He is not the legitimate, legalized, solid man of the fraternity, but he is none the less a professional gambler. Next comes the gentleman gambler, who cultivates the hazard of dice or cards as a recreation, openly and unblushingly. He may deal occasionally as an amateur, not as a legitimate or professional ; but usually he exhausts the time in midnight poker or faro. Tinctured with politics, and ho is welcomed at political clubs ; if pleasing in manner and free with his money, women of a certain quality cultivate him. If a business man, it is necessary for him to be guarded and sly in his gambling operations ; and if a church- goer or salaried clerk, the vice proclaimed is absolute ruin. In the professional gambler there is or should be much that is repugnant to the right-minded and hon- 704 GAMBLING. est workingman. Although the latter, in every blow he strikes, nut knowing the outcome of it whether it shall prosper or not, makes a direct appeal to the god- dess Fortune ; but having honestly struck the blow, lie feels he has a right in thus making the appeal. But the shaved and whitc-shh'ted faro-dealer is not Fortuna, but rather a monev-demon, a soul-subdui r. an emissary of Satan, a C(muncrcial traveller in the interests of hell. May he then be honest ? Why yes, if he does not cheat. Is not Satan honest ? And are not his agents to be trusted as fully as those of his enemies, nine-tenths of whom, by their own showing, each measuring another, are not what they seem. There is no excuse for crime or wron<»; doinij: but I have yet to find the man, or class of men or woukii without nmcli that is y;ood as well as nmch that is evil in them. The nmrderer and the harlot did nut become such because they were utterly depraved, but because they were overtaken by some evil more tlu fault of their enviromnent than of their original natuiv. The honest and the chaste may tliank for their uii- tempted virtue conditions void of the allurement- which otljerwise might have made them the thni^ they so contemptuously scorn. Tiiousands who walk the street with head erect, honored and respected, would long since have met the felon's fate, had their courage been equal to their desires. During the flush times games were employed to suit all tastes. There were the purely games of chance, as faro, nionte, dice ; games partly of chance and partly of skill, as whist, euchre, poker, backgam- mon; games of skill, as chess, checkers, billiards, (lames which require much thought or skill are never resorted to for ]»oj)ular heavy gambling. They are t(»o slow and there is too nmch labor connected with tiieni. Something more quick and soul-stirring is what is wanted. Next to the pleasure of winning is tlir [deasure of losing : stagnation is unendurable. The term gambler, in California, refers only to the prof( one ^ tlie ^ does bets 1 that i ever J alway dresse turbal air, a I slowly inclitfei Servant sockets people contrac , The « times if nature, tilized ; is crysti pom man innnerse apl)ear i ^>n thee f>utchery f^ion. H own. C iii(>n. p attack a ( t^^'f-ept a figlits or stakes to K;»od-]iuin United wi ago. He Pi'k, but 1 ^viJl kill a Cal. TYPICAL FLUSH-TIMES CxAMBLER. 708 professional, not being used in the abstract sense of one who gambles. The grocer deals out sugar and the gambler cards; he who buys a pound of sugar does not thereby become a grocer ; neither is he who bets upon the cards, in California, called a gambler, that term being applied to a class sui generis. Where- ever found, in the city or in the mines, one can almost always pick them out in a crowd. They are the best dressed men one meets ; their pale, careworn, imper- turbal)le faces wear an absent but by no means greedy air, and as they stand listlessly on the corner, cr slowly and carelessly walk the street, by no mtans iiiditferent to a pretty female ankle, their calmly ob- servant eyes, which are somewhat sunken in their sockets, seem to possess the faculty of looking through })eople while not looking at them, which habit was contracted at the gamiiiij table. The character of the typical gambler of the flusli times is one of the queerest mixtures in hunuiu nature. His temperament is mercurial })ut non-vola- tilized; like quicksilver in cinnabar, its subtle vivacity is crystalized or massed in suli)hur. Supreme self- command is his cardinal quality; yet, except when immersed in the intricacies of a game, his actions appear to be governed only l)y impulse and faney, ()n the other hand his swiftest vengeance and cruellest butchery seem rather the nsult of policy than pas- sion. His crimes are his profession's rather than liis own. Confident with women, he is audacious with iiu^n. Prompt in action, expert, he is as ready to attack a dozen as one. He is never known t< > steal except at cards; and if caught cheating hv. either fiijjhts or blandly smiles his sui away, suffers the stakes to be raked down without a nmnnur, treats good-humoredly, and resumes the game unruffled. United with the coolest cunninij is the coolest cour- ao;c. He is as ready with his pistol as with his tooth- l>i<k, but ho never uses it unless he is right; then, he Will kill a man as mercilessly as he would brush a fly Cal. Int. Voc. 45 706 GAMBUNG from his immaculate linen. Yet in his lonely dispo- sition he is not quarrelsome, and never murders ex- cept professionally. He is a man to be feared, and in early times he was highly respected. He is all nerve, electrical in his organization, and depends wholly upon his own resources for justice and protec- tion. He knows not fear; life to him is but a shuffle and a deal, in which the chances have already been calculated, and death at most is but the losing of the game — all matters of indifferent moment. In his disposition he is magnanimous; in his bearing noble; in his actions chivalrous. He will not do a mean thing; he discharges his pecuniary obligations with scrupulous exactitude, thus putting to shame the so- called English gentleman, and never disputes a bill. Desperate in an emergency, he is the foremost to bravo peril; the most unselfish in suffering, and en- dures misfortune with heroic fortitude. He will fight for a friend as quickly as for himself, and share his last ounce with an unfortunate comrade. He will take every dollar from his victim should chance so order it, but he will as often give him back a portion should he stand in need of it. He has even been known to hand back money won from a simple-mind id youth, with the advice not to indulge in play until lie understands it better. Should a secret connnittee of some mining camp, seized with a spasm of moral re- form, order him to leave the town, he receives the sentence with calm equinimity; siiould death be his portion he meets it with barbaric stoicism. His pockets are alwa^-s open, but his philanthropy knows no formula; he will contribute to estiiblisli a church or a brothel, to support a Sunday-school or a swindle. He has his code of honor; but such thiii*j;s as orthodox conscience or conventional morality- he knows not and cares not what they are. In niatt( rs of justice he will act the unpopular part of advocate for a penniless horse thief, or falsely swear an alibi to save a friend. Over and over are told of them tales oft! by s panic penal of w] rchgii Tiiere tJiat ii tliis p In tlic holdtj < accust( sary c£ He is I numb Ivcencst tloalino- patron's, I»uts on cut. }r f'' >id, an is no tre tlie coIo] pression i'ldifferei l>ankrupt once befi ^'vo feati ••Z" life ar t'vo, and profession fonsequer foinpJacei ti"Ms of 1 file mere. i'xlifferenc fathers, is '"'ss, but tiiose wh THE TYPICAL FORTYNmEE, 707 of the highest heroism ; how one and another stood by some contemptible, ill-deserving, chance com- panion, knowing all the time that death was the penalty of chivalric devotion. Chance is his god, of whom he is a most faithful minister. Luck is his religion, and in it he is a firm believer and devotee. There is but one thing certain about it however, and that is, sooneror later it will change. To know when tliis point is reached is the sum of all knowledge. In the practise of his profession, so long as his luck lioldb out good he never tires, and takes no rest. He accustoms himself to do without sleep, and if neces- sary can go for several days and nights without rest. He is a temperate man, being far too shrewd to be- numb his faculties when he requires (jf them the keenest perception. Every now and then, while dealing his game, he orders drinks and cigars for his patrons, but sips sparingly from his own glass, as one puts on coal merely to prevent the fire from going out. He deals his game with the most perfect sang fr )id, and when undergoing the heaviest losses there is no trembling of fingers or change of expression in the colorless face, no twitching of nmscles nor com- pression of lips; eye and manner maintain their cold indifference, and if compelled at last to announce his bankruptcy he does it with a smile such as never once before throughout the game lighted his impas- sive features. His views as to the common conduct of life are philosophic ; in manner he is undemonstra- tive, and in speech reticent. In the practise of his profession he is bold in his operations, and fearless of consequences. His listless lounging and grave self- complacency contrast strongly with the fier}' ebulli- tions of his surroundinsrs. The restless emotion <jf the merchant and miner he regards with tranquu indifference. He interferes little in the affairs of others, is not specially skilled in matters of busi- ness, but he weighs and measures the character of those who play with him with the utmost nicety. 708 GAMBLINO. He knows perfectly well whether one who draws a pistol or a knife means to use it ; and on the instant takes measures acccordingly. His brightly polished weapons are always at his elbow ready for inmiediate use, but he never touches them unless he deems it neccssar}^ and then only to use them. He is studi- ously neat in his habits, and tends to foppishness in his costume. In the city his coat is of the latest cut, diamonds adorn his shirt, his high silk hat is black and glossy, and with a fancy-headed cane in a gloved hand he taps his closely-fitting well-polislud boots. In the mines he sometimes atftcts the miner's dress, but his woollen shirt is gaily embroidered, and his slouched hat clean and graceful. A chain i.f gold specimens linked together is attached to a mas- sive hunting watch, and massive rings of virgin gold and quartz encircle his soft white fingers. His sleek and well oiled hair is neatly brushed, his face clostly shaven, leaving perhaps a mustache, but never whiskers long enough for exasperated losers to seize hold of A fine cloth cloak is sometimes thrown loosely over the shoulder, and round the waist a brig] it scarlet silk sash supports his murderous weapons. When in funds he travels on a fat, sleek mule, wirli yellow buckskin guantlets, broad-brimmed hat, and large silver spurs; if overtaken by adversity lie walks. The professional gambler seeks the best mines and the largest crowds. When gold begins to fail he mi- grates with the miners, following the diggers as the sea gull follows the pelican. Should the occupants of one camp become impecunious or disgusted and de- cline further play, he quietly packs up his tools, mounts his mule, and is off for another. Thus he may have to go for mam days before he gets a game. In mountain towns his quarters may be a log cabin, with open broad fireplace, larger than the other cabins, but always occupying a central position. In tenting times his encampment was conspicuous for its ample juid iti ItM I'ranci •sion wi III 185 i'lgs de ^^'ore tl ^ ous, tl d;th. J '•y coil «l>lendoi \vas sup ^\( re gre fine Iarg( • xtendin, from the tlie mino "f coin a "■<'>N like I ^>i'i,i,^htnes Til ore 1 tables on .u'lttorino- and bag's "'iglit clio gaiiibling Withdi pi'oniiscuoi 1 ill 're wer ••^'id sliinin; *'"s; miner • 's CJiilian a'l'i China] tontly watc smoking, c aiul then dr- IN THE CITY. 709 ample accommodations, the whiteness of its canvas, unci its gay trimmings. It was in the larger cities, however, such as San Francisco, Sacramento, and Marysville, that this pas- sion with the most unbriddled license was displayed. Ill 1850 on two sides of the plaza were brick build- ings devoted almost exclusively to gambling. There wore the El Dorado, the Bella Union, the Rendez- vous, the Empire, the Parker House, and the Veran- dah. Here large halls were fitted up, some of them Ity companies formed in France, with oriental splendor. In one the ceiling, rich in fresco and gilt, was supported by glass pillars, pendant from which were great y;lass cha:ideliers. Around the walls were fine large paintings of nude female figures, and mirrors extending from floor to ceiling. Entering at night from the unlighted dismal street into an immense iDom lii^hted with dazzling brilliance, and loud with the minified sound of nmsical instruments, the clink of coin and glasses, and the hum of human voices, was like passing from the dark deptlis to celestial brightness. There were long rows of leather-covered mahogany tables on which were temptingly spread out heaps of glittering gold and silver coin, nuggets, slugs, bars, aiul bags of dust, and whore tlie votaries of chance might choose from every game known to the civilized gambling world. With difficulty one elbowed one's way through the promiscuous crowd that here nightly congregated. There were men in black clothes, immaculate linen, and shining silk hats, merchants, lawyers, and doc- tors; miners in woollen shirts, greasy Sandwich Island- ers, Chilians, and Mexicans; Irish laborers, Negroes, and Chinamen, some crowded round the tables in- tently watching the games, others lounging about, smoking, chewing, spitthig, drinking, swearing, now and then dropping a dollar, or a five, or ten, or twenty. ^.r,M 710 GAMBLING, or fifty-dollar piece, with real or well-feigned indiffer- ence as to the result. Now and then the games were momentarily interrupted by the crack of a pistol, and the loungers became a little deuKiralized as the ball whistled past their ears and lodged in the wall. If a man was killed or wounded he was taken out, but the nature of the affray was left to be learned from tlio morning papers, and in a few moments all was as h.'- fore. Some of the saloons were open day and niglit, and paid enormous rents; six thousand dollars a month was paid for the El Dorado. There were also many private clubs or suits of rooms, where the play- ers were more select and play ran higher. Notliiiig but gold coin was used in these i)laces, and tlie stakes ran into the hundreds and tliousands. A bet of any sum less than five dollars was regarded as contemi>ti- ble. These rooms were often graced or disgraced l)y the presence of beautiful women, and sumptuous sup- pers were served, with the best of wines, all free to the i)atronizing visitors. Like those of the pretty-waiter saloons and dance cellars of later times, the band may be an orchestra of regular nmsicians, a company of negro minstrels, a quartette of Mexican guitars, a piano, or if the room and counters be celestial, a Chinese scrape, squeak, and slam-bang. Gambling from 1849 to 1852 was followed in Sau Francisco as a regular business, and there was no dis- grace attached U) the profi'ssion. Among tlie dealers of gambling games at that time were some of the most influential and talented citizens. But they were a transient race ; they have gone forever. As a more refined civilization crept in and overwhelmed the low, the loose, and the vicious, gambling sank into disre- pute. Law drove it behind locked doors and into windowless rooms. Then the gay gamblers of the olden time left the profession to a different class, niicl sought out new fields of distinction, perhaps in poli- tics, law, or speculation. MONTE AND FARO. 711 The position of monte-dealer is a most trying one. Surrounded by the clamor of the crowd ; his t'yes, while apparently intent on his cards, closely scru- tinizing the faces and fingers of the Bettors be- fore him; his mind meanwhile occupied by the progress of the game, which involves intricate and continuous calculation ; then, should he wish to indulge in feats of skill or cheating, he must perform them at the peril of his life, under scores of eyes riveted with vigilant scrutiny upon his fingers, and be ready at any moment to resent, if deemed best, with knife or pistol, the merest suspicion of dishonesty, sliould any one of the players imprudently intimate it. Faro was considered the more dignified and re- spectable of all the games, and was played mostly by Englislimen and Americans, while monte was a favorite with the French and Spanish. Besides tliese were roulette, rouge-et-noir, rondo, vingt-un, chuck-a-luck, with dice, and many other games. The usual stake was from a dollar to five dollars, though it was not unconnnon in the flush times to see hundreds or even thousands ventured on the turning of a card. A bet of $20,000 was once made at a faro game and won by the customer. The dealer counted out tlie money with as nmch nonchalance as if it liad been twenty dollars he had lost instead of twenty thousand. There is something fascinating in standing by and watching the game, as the painted cards turn up their leering faces and read the [(layers the meloilrame of their folly. It seems like siiorting with destiny, and telling out tV'o tale of life by wor- shipful spots and figures. It is a fine thhig to get a peck or a bushel of gold just by betting for it, and tlie tremulous rapture of mingled hope and fear is almost compensatitui enough even if one loses. And after all "bucking" at a faro bank was no more uncertain and nmch less trouble- some than staking time and sinews against the Sierra's secret pockets and auriferous banks. There are men, 'm fi*; 712 GAMBLING. among whom may be classed Sonorians and Chilians, who mine only that they may gamble, whom neither hunger nor thirst nor any other known incentive could stir up to labor. No matter how purely the game is one of chance, the player arrogates to himself some certain skill. Luck, like the stellar system, has its law which patient study is sure to develop. Then every one has his own individual luck, which like a personal deity, should be conciliated; so tliat, very naturally and very properly, the player, if he won, could thank himself for it, whereas, if he lost, his luck was at fault. The gambler, when play grew slack, would stroll away, sometimes leaving his table unguarded in the midst of a heterogeneous crew of cut-throats, tempt- ingly loaded witli the stuff all men covet, apparently regarding it as safe as if locked in the vaults of tlie bank of England. Few possessed the temerity to rob a gambler, and least of all hi a place where sununary justice would be quickly meted out by the bystanders. In certain localities, various games were paraded hi the street, or from low shops opening on the side- walk. One would deal three-card monto on the head of a barrel; another would tempt the gaping crowd with thimblerig played with a golden pea upon his leg ; well-dressed young men and boys, as well as vll- lainous-lookhig cut-throats would follow soft-looking strangers about the streets offerin<j to bet $100 or $200 on some trick which offered to the outsider an apparently sure thing. On Long Wharf, whc>re at that time were most of the arrivals and de[)artures to and from San Francisco, this base traffic was plied most persistently. At almost every hour of the day or nioht the cries of the French monte-dealer mijifht lie heard: " The ace of spades 1 the ace I the ace I A hundred dollars to any one who will tell tlie ace of spades ! " But these were the bohemians of the frater- nity, of very different metal from the regular artist, Gathered round the table are men of all nations, play turc! lean, play( eyes, and J inay M( consi( ties ft -^fexic til ere witli t it cam feature H'ill SI niakeri Innu the slir told tal A y( niission Fifteen ^v!len, i liave al] tlie mil i>itched to his d Allot lionio. I'eiiiaindi «it a nion ^^'cre ad( took the tlie reme A 1ms ^'laku his to stay. SOME EXAMPLES, m playinpf or watchin;^ with morbid curiosity the ven- tures of others. There you may always find the Mex- ican, the most constant and the most intrepid of players, with his broad sombrero drawn well over his eyes, and in his bright-colored serajie, symbol of pride and ])overty, are placed his well-worn weapons. You may be sure if he is not playing he has no money. Monte is the favorite game of the Mexican, as he considers the chances nearer equal and the op[)ortuni- ties for foul play smaller. Between the experienced ^lexican <;ambler and the iimocent, audacious Yankee tliere is a marked contrast. The former gambles with the coolness of a fatalist; what nmstbe, will be, it cannot be changed. The latter, with tongue and feature, displays anger or joy at every venture ; lie will succumb before no destiny ; are not Americana makers of destiny ? Innumerable are the stories told of worshippers at the shrine of the fickle goddess, beside the many un- told tales. A 3'^oung man from the mines conceived it his mission to break a gambler's bank in Sacramento. Fifteen hundred dollars, his all, were speedily lost, when, turning to the gambler, he exclaimed, "You liave all my money ; give me an ounce to get back to the mines with." Without a word the gambler ])ltched him a doubloon, and the young man returned to his diijjjjin*;. Another arrived in town with $19,000, on his way home. Depositing $10,000 with a friend, with tlie rcinalnder he entered a brilliant saloon, seated himself at a monte table, and began betthig Soon the $3,000 were added to the bank. The infatuated man tlicn took the remainder of liis money, and notwithstanding the reuKmstrances of his friend, staked and lost it all. A husband and father having secured sufficient to iiiakii his family comfortable, determined to go home to stay. The night before he was to have started, ^ « 714 OAMBLINO. being overcome of liquor taken amidst numerous fare- wells, he staked and lost all his money at the monte table. Overwhelmed by the thought of what he hail done, In his drunken frenzy ho seized his lost gold and broke away with it, when the dealer drew a pistol and shot him dead. He had written home that he should arrive by the next steamer 1 A miner entered a Sacramento gambling house with $5,000, and sat down to play. In less than an hour he won .^100,000. Continuing with the determination to break the bank, his winnings were reduced to ,^r)0,000, when thinking bett'jr of the undertaking, he pocketed the njoney and withdrew. A graduate of Harvard law school came to Califor- nia in 1850. He was betrothed to a charming girl, whom he hned devotedly, being willing to endure the pangs of separation and tlie hardships of unaccustomed toil to secure enough to support her. He worked fait] 1 full V on Feather river for ten months, durin*i which time he lived temperately, and neither drank n. r gambled to any extent, llaxing secured some $12,000, he concluded to return homo, so packing up his I'rt'ects he went down to the bay, put up at a hotel in San Francisco, and there waited the departure of the steamer. In strolling through the gambling houses of the town, listening to the "Home, Sweet Home," or other nmsic of the bund that stirred his heari and carried him back to other scenes, as every- body did in those days he now and then dropped a coin on the table, more for pastime than any desire of iiain. One nijjlit he allowed himself to be tarried away by the fascinations of the game, until almost before he was aware of what he was about, more than half Ills money was gone. Then in a moment of pas- sion tlie infatuated man took the remainder, and rais- ing his hand and bringing it down upon a card with a heavy blow, cried out, " Home or the mines I " Slowly the dealer drew the cards that told the rash man's destiny, and breathlessly he waited who thus invoked HOME OR THE MINES. 716 his fate. Another instant, liis muscles relaxed, and he sank back hito his seat witli the hoarse whisper, "The mines, by Godl" One day a monte-doaltT appeared upon a bar which was yielding good returns and making rich its diggers. It was a virgin field ; no one of ids profession had ever before outspread his encliantmenta in tliat locality. Tlie camp was stagnating for an excitement; its occu- pants were ready to seize u[)on any pretext for relax- ation from Iheir long and profitable labor. They had no more disposition to bet than they had to fight IiidiaMs or hang a horse-thief, l)ut they were eager for any excuse wliich should enable them to rest their limbs, distract their minds, and increase their pota- tions. The "sport" took up his quarters at the best saloon, and drawing forth several bags of lieavy dust, round and fat, and gold doubloons and silver Spanish dollars, temptingly heaped them upon his table. After invithig all hands to drink, he seated himself behind his bank, placed his weapons conveniently, then care- fully unrolling a cliamois-skhi package, he produced several packs of thin tough well-kept monte-cards, which he deposited, not without an eye to effect, be- side the gold. Taking up one pack after another, he carefully examines each, observes closely the backs and edges, counts them over several times to see that none are missing, for if short or over a single card Jiis opponent might claim the whole of any ;3tako whether he won it or not. Selecting a pack which best suits his fancy, he dexterously shutttes them long and thor- oughly, passes them to be cut, then holding them sci- entifically half crushed in his soft white hand, with the faces downward, he draws from underneath tlie bottom two cards, and tlircnvs them face ui)permost on the table, crying, "All ready 1 Comedown; make your game, gentlemen; seven of spades in the door; the game is made ; all down. No morel" Meanwliile tlie miners who had taken their seats at tlie ends ajid opposite sides of the table from the dealer put down ' r 1' 716 GAMBLING. their bets, some on one card and some on the otlier. Then tummg up the cards, the dealer begins to draw from the top, and the game goes on. At first the gambler lost heavily ; yet quietly, with uninipassioned face he continued, and the miners were elated. The saloon-keeper drove a thriving trade, and all warmed up to the business. Others came, in twos and threes, until not a man was left at the diggings. Work being thus suspended, the camp yielded to the seductive influence of play. At length luck left the miners. The gambler won. Gradually the pile on the table enlarged until after three days of roaring jollification the miners were bankrupt. The gambler and saloon-keeper had all the money. Instead of returning, with their returning senses, to their work, two thirds of the luckless and chagrined individuals left the camp within a week. There was a beautiful little French woman who kept a roulette table at the north end of Montgomery street. There were many such in San Francisco. The room was elegantly furnished like a boudoir. The syren sat behind the table, elegantly arrayed in black silk, her face fronting the open door, whirling her wheel most bewitchingly Before her lay a pile of silver dollars and gold ounces. A tall bony New Englander, brought up on mush, catechism, and Poor Richard's almanac, passing by stopped to survey the scene. He caught the infection. Throwing looks of languishing love into her melting eyes, gaz- ing upon her luscious lips and voluptuous form, he entered and seated himself before her. First he lay down gold pieces, then silver, all the time almost in- variably losing. Then he brought out a watch, then another watch, and another. He had had a lucky game of poker the night before which accounted for the watches. The charmer swept them all to her side of the table. Finally he drew a ring from his finger. " Combien ?" asked the woman. GOING A "BUND" AT MONTE. 717 "Three ounces," answered the New Englander despairingly. "Ohl no, no, no," laughed the garaestress, "une montre, pas plus." The ring brought Imck one of the watches, but the next whirl swept them both away and the man retired to meditate and begin the world anew. It was a common practise for miners to lay an un- opened bag of dust upon a card, call the amount of his venture, and if he won receive the same from the dealer without opening his bag at all. At Stockton in 1850, a 'sucker,* as one of his nativity was called, entered a gambling saloon and cast his eye over the several monte tables. It was an eye which with its surroundings resembled a dead coal dropped into a can of lard. In long bristles the hair hung from a flat rakish head resting on shoulders fit for a Khodian Colossus, and surmounting a puncheon-shaped body stuck upon keg-like legs. Stepping up to a table which seemed to strike his fancy he leaned over and peered into the face of the dealer. "D* ye 'low a man to bet his pile on one kyerd?" he innocently asked. "Yes, you may bet your pile," answered the dealer. After a long search within the folds of his shirt he drew forth a bag containing his treasures and slapping it onthe 'caballo' exclaimed : " I go two ounces on that hoss." The first time he lost; the next he won. Half an hour of fluctuations saw the lUinoisan loser to about the extent, as the dealer thought, of what the contents of the bag would cover. Hence the game waa arrested and the process of settlement begun, "While the dealer was adjusting the scales, the little thick man stood immovable as ft pillar, a roseate hue meanwhile mounting his flabby face; but when the bag was open and bits of lead instead of gold greeted with dull unwelcome stare the gamblcrs's gaze, tbe tub-like man began to revolve, and gathering mo- mentum as he approached the door, disappeared amidst lis GAMBLING. the uproar of laughter, flying tumolers, and broken curses which followed. One night, a Mexican with his face half con- cealed in an old serape, entered the El Dorado, and edging his way through the crowd stepped before a monte table, After following the game for a short time, he drew forth an old linen bag of coin, supposed of course to be silver dollars, and placing it upon a card leaned over the table, and — apparently forsaken by his usual stoicism — watched the dealer's fingers with breathless anxiety. The Mexican won; ^ <e dealer with quiet indifference pulled the bag over to him, untied the string, and emptied out the contents. His face turned white as a sheet, even his customary coolness deserted him; for out of the bag had rolled, not silver dollars as every one supposed, but golden doubloons, more than enough to break the bank. The gambler, however, borrowed sufficient from his neigh- bors and paid the Mexican who withdrew as quietly as he had entered. One day a Mexican rode up to a gambling saloon at the Mission Dolores. Dismounting, he tied his horse, entered, and began betting. Soon his money, pistols, and all his belongings were gone. Finally his horse was staked and lost ; but this was more than he could endure, and he detennlned to save it. As he rose from the table he managed to upset it, and while all were engaged in picking up the scattered money, he slipped out, mounted, and galloped away. There was in San Francisco, about 1855, a specu- lator whose business consisted in organizing lotteries on a scale hitherto unknown. He went to Europe for the purpose of collecting an interminable assort- ment of objects of all kinds suited to the American taste, and during several months had a great exposi- tion in one of the principal toWns of the Union, used all kinds of wise stratagems to announce it, and ended by realizing a profit of $50,000 or $60,000. The col- lection which he exhibited at San Francisco was a gall, ateu Titii Jotte was W erat(j offb^ recov for t enoui he ge at th would and k lose it known an asy The early j what 1 introdi less iut and be shroud( is the I receivt( the ear the stii dered, t means into fai has lost tlie mar and exc gay and almost, play wit THE SCIENCE OF POKER. 719 gallery of pictures, which were much admired by am- ateurs. They were miserable copies of Reubens, Titian, etc. , but the lucky ones who drew them in the lottery had perfect faith in their originality, which was guaranteed in the catalogue. Wliile threshing near Marysville, a man with invet- erate gambling proclivities had both of his legs torn off by the machine. As soon as he had sufficiently recovered, he started on a tour through the mountains for the purpose of raising by subscription money enough to buy him two cork legs; but no sooner did he get together $100 or so than he gambled it away at the firbt gaming-table he could find. Then he would start out agam, trailing the ground on crutches and log-stumps, begging more money only to bet and lose it again, until his untoward ways became generally known, when he was arrested and incarcerated in an asylum. The following tribute to the game of poker was early paid by an able writer. " We do not know in what happy clime the great game of poker was first hitroduced ; the name of the man out of whose fathom- less intellect it soared into the world of created things and began to fascinate the hearts of the people is shrouded in oblivion ; but we do know that California is tlie land where the game has been most favorably received and industriously cultivated as a science. In the early days the passion for taking chances, which the stirring incidents of mining life naturally engen dered, and the want of more refined and ennobling means of amusement caused it to be taken at once into fjivor by the Californians; and in later years it has lost nothing of its singular popularity — rising with tlie march of civilization, from the cabin to the palace, and exchanging the plebean bean, as a marker, for the gay and ornamental ivory cliip. Every Californian, almost, understands the nature of the game, and can play with more or less art, according to the measure 790 OAMBUKG. of his intellect, and the opportunities he has had for becoming proficient." The future historian, whose name will naturally be written on the highest peak of the sun-crowned Sierras of fame, on whom shall fall the godlike task of tracing the rise and progress of draw poker in this state, will find the pathway that leads him back in his researches to the barbaric splen- dor of 1849, strewn with rich incidents and racy anec- dotes of notable "hands" that have been held, heroic "calls" that have been made, and gigantic "blinds" that have been promptly seen." In September 1858 a little game of "draw" was played on the classic banks of Georgiana slough, in Sacramento county, which is worthy of notice, for the reason that it proves the plastic character of the game, and the illimitable resources that it affords the skillful and experienced gambler. One evening a young man, named Stone, who had been de\ oting his atten- tion to the cultivation of sweet potatoes on the slough, and had just disposed of his crop, was seduced into a triangular game of poker with two professional players, Budd Davis and Garland Adams, who, of course, had entered into a conspiracy to pluck the young and in experienced potato-merchant. Retiring to a little cabin in the suburbs of Georgiana, the trio sat down at a rude pine table, one corner of which was gar- nished by a descendant of the house of Bourbon, of the capacity of a quart, more or less, and by the dim and flickering light of a tallow candle, began to court the favor of fortune. Stone was rather a flhity sub- ject to handle for the reason that he would not drink. and was so excessively cautious that he would not bet unless he held an almost invincible hand. For a time the gamblers were undecided, and played along in meditative silence, winning but little more than tl.c mere ante-money from Stone, who paid no attention tt) the presence of the royal visitor, and could not be coaxed with ordinary full hands and fours to loosen hii grip on the potato^moaey. Budd Davis finally DIVERS ILLUSTRATIONS. 721 took a long pull at the bottle and wns equal to the emergency. He dealt the cards. There waa some betting before the draw, and soon things began to get lively. Before the draw, Stone held a pair of kings ; he drew to his kings, and colored to the very roots of his hair as he picked up the cards he had drawn, and found two additional kings and an ace — making his hand absolutely invincible. His agitation was plainly visible, his hand trembling pitifully as he saw Adams* bet of $20, and raised him $180 back. Good heavens I can it be possible that Budd Davis is going to play against that invincible hand ? Yes, he slowly counts out the twenties until he has seen the $200 and goes $260 better. Adams steps out for the appearance of the thing, and an ominous silence reigns round the board. Stone has $420 in his pocket, but a suspicion that something is wrong begins to dawn upon his mind and the flush fades from his face. He sees no way of escape, however, and stands the raise. The hands are shown down and Budd defeats his four kings and an ace with four aces ! Of course, in gam- bling parlance, he had lifted a cold hand on the young man, that is, one already prepared from another deck of cards and secreted somewhere about his person. He was arrested at the instance of Stone, and tried before a justice of the peace, but was discharged without Itunishment. After that, we presume. Stone devoted his attention to raising potatoes instead of raising bets and going it blind. I do not know of any other time or place where could be found a servant of the living God going to an emissary of Satan for aid to build a temple to the former, for the express purpo.se of utterly confounding and placing under foot the latter. It was not a very praiseworthy act for the preacher to go to the gam- bler on such a mission, and of the two the man of sin shows to the better advantage. The omnipotent Cal. Int. Poc. 46 722 GAMBLING. creator of the universe begging of the devil a few dollars to help build a church I It was in Sacramento in the winter of '49-50, and the man was a well-known baptist clergyman. Passing a gambling shop and hearing the chink of the much desired metal, he entered, approached a table, and made known his want to a man with an open pleasing face, who was busy bucking at the tiger. 'Church, oh yesl People want churches as well as gambling houses. How much do you want ? " "Whatever you choose to give," blandly replied the preacher. "Well, you see the twenty on that card. If it wins it's forty, and it's yours." It won and the preacher took the forty dollars from the courts of Belial to give it to his God. "Hold on," exclaimed the gambler. " I have a ten on that other card. You may have that." It won; and the preacher desired to be off. "Stop a minute," cried the man of sin. "Put your sixty dollars on that card, and you'll have a hundred and twenty sure, and if you'll stand by me we'll win enough to build the whole damned concern." "Who do you belong to?" apked a passenger of a colored boy on the Sacramento boat bound down in 1850. "Don't know, sir," was the reply. " Why don't you know ?" "Well, when I come aboard. I blong to mass Sam White, but he went me on two little par, and de clerk ob dis boat he win me. Den Kernel Smiff he beat <lo clerk on a bluff, and he had me last; so I can't tell who I b'longs to till the game closes." Many a man has fancied in vain that he has or can devise a system by which he can surely win in tlie long run. " One of the marvels of San Francisco," says an English adventurer, " is its instant transformation at a ( into J stores Jlng I lifc, op cit J w and b usual few w the pi] I foun it mig] fortune directi( a table ing. i was rai interva "K outside good tu "'Y( sume ? " '"Ce "'Th "'W win ? • " 'Dil "'Bu the inte stake is of winnii " ' No how yoi just the win as n of the ba " ' The I see peo GOOD ADTtCE. 723 at a certain hour each evening from a place of business into a city of hells. The closing of the offices and stores is the signal for the opening of a host of gamb- ling saloons. They are all on the ground -oor, well lit, opening on the streets, and so numerous as to ex« cit .! wonder at night as to where the stores can be, and by day where the saloons are. These are the usual evening resort of all classes. And there are few who do not occasionally attempt to win some of the piles of gold and silver that glitter on the tables. 1 found myself strongly attracted by the thought that it might be possible to cut my labor short by a few fortunate ventures; but I had not done much in one direction or the other when I found myself playing at a table where one of my fellow-passengers was deal- ing. As I had barely observed the man on board, I was rather surprised by his whispering to me in an interval of the game: "'Keep your money in your pocket, meet me outside at noon to-morrow, and I can do you a good turn.* " * You come to California to make money I pre- sume ? " was the greeting when we met next day. *' * Certainly,' I replied. " 'Then take my advice,* said he, 'and don't play.* " ' Why,* I asked laughingly, * is it so difficult to win?' " * Difficult 1' said he, 'it's impossible.* " ' But wlien the chances are so nearly even, surely the interval between the minimum and niaximuiu stake is great enough to allow almost a certainty of winning,* I said. " ' Not a bit of it,* was the answer. * No matter how you arrange your stakes, in the long run it is just the same as if they were all of one size; you'll win as many as you lose, and have the percentage of the bank against you.' " ' Then all those symptoms and calculations which I see people following are a delusion ? ' 724 OAMBUNO. " ' Entirely so. Thejr are merely playing against a certain event, which is bound in the long run tu happen just once in the time it takes for them to win as much as they lose when the event happens ; so that they can make nothing by it.* " 'But surely some events are far rarer than others, and may be considered impossible/ I observed. "'Nothing is impossible to the cards, because the events don't depend on each other,' was the answer ; and he continued. 'This dollar has only two sides; suppose I toss it up and you guess wrong, does that make you any more likely to guess right next time ? Certainly not. I've seen men guess wrong more than twenty times together. Besides, if you play only against a very rare event, your winnings will be pri)- portionably small; and consequently, in order to double your capital, you must play so long as to give the event a good chance of happening. Suppose you play against losing ten times running ; you can tell exactly how often you will do so by reckoning how much your stake becomes if left on to win ten times running. One piece doubled up ten times becomes a 1024 ; therefore just once in that number of coups you must lose or win ten times running; and you must play that number of coups to win as much as you lose when it comes. The game can't be played without risking to lose as much as you can win, and the best way of doing that is to put down the wholo sum at once. You have just as good a chance of doubling it as by any way of dividing it into uuall stakes, and you don't expose it to being dribbled away in percentage to the bank. But if you are wise you won't touch the thing at all. I noticed you in the Killoojiey, and though we never spoke that I recol lect, I took a liking to you, and I don't mind telling you that you are too good for the business. If you have won keep what you have got, and if you have lost put up with it. No gambler is ever the richer for winni tiirouj (i ar fessioi in fi^u possibi tern m In a gj the lor time tt the ma extraor it. li do not I pf winn interest* until th( have ma which a1 fortunate ence, I g soon den when I leave off being ev< Ifc wouldii such an c down for labor, ma should be Every un doubtful Every pro tJie future that cannc "ThisC Perhaps t deeming p Probably THE DOCTRINE OP CHANCE. 725 winning, and many a good man becomes a scoundrel tiirough it.' " Two or three further conversations with my pro- fessional friend, and a careful analysis of the chances in figures, convinced me that he is right as to the im- possibility of winning by systematic play. Any sys- tem may win for a time, but all must lose eventually. In a game of pure chance, luck is everything; and m the long run that must equalize itself. In the mean- time the bank is gaining a certain steady profit, and the maximum stake is placed so low as to prevent any extraordinary event from inflicting a serious loss upon it. I have discovered that I am no gambler, since I do not care to play unless I think I have a certainty of winning. I can quite understand any one being interested in constructing various systems to play by imtil the discovery conies that none are infallible. I have made several, and examined many more, each of which at first seemed as if they must win forever ; but, fortunately, instead of testing them by actual experi- ence, I showed them to my professional friend, who soon demonstrated their weak points. He says that when I thoroughly understand the chances, I shall leave off figuring. He says the very fact of a chance being even makes it impossible to beat it, otherwise it wouldn't be even. It is a great pity. It would be such an easy way of making a fortune if one could sit down for a few hours a day, and, without risk or labor, make a certain sum. I don't see why there should be such a prejudice against gambling in itself. Every undertaking in life is a venture more or less doubtful. All these merchants here are liable to fail. Every profession, marriage itself, is a lottery, in which tlie future happiness of a life depends on an experiment that cannot be undone. " This Califomian expedition of mine is nothing less. Perhaps the necessity of labor and judgment are re- deeming points in all but mere chance speculations. Probably the real evil of gambling consists m its 726 GAMBLING. looking onl^^ to the end or reward, and aflbrdlng no employment for the higher faculties in the pursuit. " It is impossible to fancy any artist attaining a high degree of inspiration who thuiks solely of the money he is to get for his work. I see how it is with me. In this, as in all my other engrossments, I have boii seeking for the absolute. It seems to me a species of atheism to say that there is no infallible system, even for playing monte. The remark that 'in the long run nothing is impossible, because the events do not depend on each other,' seems capable of being ai>plied to a very different line of thought. If in the long run of events all things can happen, there can be no doni- onstration of a special providence, neither can a man who believes in the absence of a controlling will or character have any reason for objecting to any system of religion on the score of its improbability. However great niay be the chances against an event, tlio-se chances are only against its occurring at any given moment. If the opportunity be repeated exactly as often as there are chances against the event, it is an even chance that it occurs once in that number of times. If oftener, the chances are actually hi favor of its happening. It is an even chance every time whether red or black wins; yet I am told that one has been known to win thirty times together. The odds against such a series are over a thousand millions to one ; but in that number of attempts it becomes an even chance that it occurs. And, inasmuch as tlie past and future are entirely independent of each other, the most improbable event may show itself directly the game begins, and may be repeated many times in rapid succession. Moreover, an event is brought no nearer to happening after the game has gone on for an indefinite time without its coming. It does not become more likely after, or less likely before, many hands have been dealt. Under the government of chance, therefore, the most violently improbable event not only may, but must, sooner or later occur." O were the ] they coun man^ Tlie befor the si theb to In( An tall ai and 8 wliich Duke so nob this Wi He or smt and sl( mind, dwellin the wh had noi as he w He and as rather wealth, which the mou There time ev( sional gj rum-sel]< fraternit ON RICH BAR. 727 So ai^ued this Englishman. On Rich bar of Feather river, a wild rocky region, were gathered in 1852 a community consisting fur the most part of experienced miners, old Californians they might almost call themselves, having been in the country during those days of rapid development, many of them for the full period of three years. The houses were mostly of cloth in the spring, but before winter log cabins were scattered along the stream, with great gashes cut by the miners in the bank hill-sides at short intervals all the way down to Indian bar. Among the rest was a young man of fine physique, tall and strong, well built, broad shouldered, muscular and sinewy, with an open, frank, intelligent face, wliich commanded at once friendship and respect. Duke John was the nickname the miners gave him, so noble was he in mind, and heart, and bearing, and this was all the name he was ever known by there. He was steady in all his habits; he did not drink, or smoke or gamble; he took care of himself, ate and slept regularly, and rested on Sundays. His mind, which evidently had been >ultivated, seemed dwelling on some object or purixjse which buoyed up the whole man, for in his daily work, to which he had now become quite accustomed, he was as happy as he was prosperous. He had some money when he came to the bar; and as he confined himself to coyoting in the banks rather than fluming the river bed, he added to his wealth, until there was of it some $20,000, with which before the snows set in he intended to leave the mountains and return home. There were gamblers here of course. By this time every prosperous mining camp had its profes- sional gamblers, as surely as its butcher, doctor, or rum-seller. The very fact of the presence of the fraternity, in fat, sleek proportions, was the best proof OAMBUNO. of the prosperity of the miners. There was one gambler in particular, Hudson his name was, a modest and refined fellow, thoroughly honest and sober — even though his hair was of the dissembling color, red — who attended to his business as faithfully and methodically as did the merchant, the miner, or the baker, dealing usually till twelve o'clock at night on Indian bar, and then walking up to his boarding- house on Rich bar to sleep. Hudson every day passed by Duke's claim ; and though each had a good word for the other, and there existed the best of feeling between them, Duke never thought any more of patronizing Hudson's game than of hiring the doctor to amputate a perfectly sound leg. He did not want the gambler's money ; he was very sure he did not want the gambler to get his money ; he had other thoughts and occupations for both his mind and money than gambling. It had been so with him ever since he was in the country, now three years ; he lived a perfect life, amidst many wild and abnormal doings, and all without knowing it. One Saturday night, after a hard week's work, during which he had been much alone, feeling that he would like to meet and talk with the boys, lie went down to Indian bar, and entered the large canvas house which stood in the middle of the town and served as drinking, gambling, and general congrega- tion shop. With its strong subdued light radiating far into the darkness, while yet upon the high divide, separating the two bars, the wayfarer looked down upon it as on a great glow-worm ; or if fancy struck another strain, then as the canopied entrance to the Anacheron pit. It was early yet, and gambling had not fairly set in. To drinking saloons and gaming tables Duke John was as indifferent as to the pack-saddles and molasses kegs of the merchandise store when he had no need for either. He would not drink at a bar any more than at a brook when he was not thirsty. His DUKE JOHN. blood was warm enough, and ran its happy course through healtliful veins; why should he want to quicken it with poisonous draughts? He knew some- thing of cards, of course; he had seen the manipula- tion of them with checks and coin and gold-dust so often and continuously of late that he knew the various games as well as any one. Indeed, he did not refuse to play upon occasion, or if he felt like it ; he was no prude or fanatic, nor was he at all afraid of himself; he was his own master, but he was no gambler — that everybody knew — and he really never felt any desire to play. There was a poker game in the room, which had just started. Two of the persons sitting at it Duke knew; the other two seemed to be late arrivals — one of them was clearly not a miner, or woiking-man, but from his dress and manner would be called a sport. The other stranger was of that nondescript cast which would not surprise a bystander to see it assume any shape at any moment. Duke seated himself on a bench by the players with his back against the wall, and listlessly watched the game while discussing the news of the day. Presently his friend was unexpectedly called away, and as he rose to go he said : " Here, Duke, i)lay my hand ; I'll be back directly," Duke assented, and for half an hour or so did little more than chip in cA keep his place in the game. His friend not returning, Duke gradually paid a little more attention to the game, and became really quite aroused when he found himself with a very good hand at a moment when the two strangers entered upon some high betting. " Fifty, is it?" said the sharper, for so we must de- nominate the sporting man. " I will see it, and go a hundred better." It was now Duke's turn, who went in and raised the stake a hundred. The other stranger passed himself out. " Five hundred better," exclaimed the sharper, " Take it," said Duke, who, sitting be- 730 GAMBLING. hind three jacks, was satisfied that he had the better hand, but did not like to risk so largely his friend's money, thoi^h by this time he hardly knew whether he was playing on hi? own account or for the other. " Cheap enough," sneered the sharper, as he spread out on the board his hand, which could boast nothing hij^her than two fours. I)uke detested bluffing. His nature was too single and straightforward to enjoy indulging iii such trickery himself, and he did not like any better to have it played upon him. The sharper was quick enough to discover this; he discovered also that Duke was not greatly interested in the game, being apparently unconcerned whether he won or lost, and certainly having no intention of high play. And a sardonic satisfaction warmed the scoundrel's heart as he saw that at last he had been able to put his finger upon this immaculate young man's weakness, upon the soft spot in the character of one whom long before he had become satisfied was of a superior order. For an hour or more the game went on, and Duke's friend did not return. Meanwhile the bet- ting became heavier, several pots rising up into the thousands, and Duke was lai^ely loser. Of course, now he was playing for himself; he would not for a moment expect his friend to suffer for his folly. But he himself could not afford to lose so much money, representing as it did weeks and months of toil and self-donlal He would play for even, and then quit, he said to himself; and here should end his first an 1 last attempt at real gambling. For he felt in his sinking heart, in his boiling blood, in his face flushed half in shame and half in anger — in anger at his own folly and at the leenng, sneering sharper that this man was playing him like an angler a fish which could not escape the toils. On went the game, the unfortunate Duke becoming more and more involved. He had not with him so much to lose, but he had already through the keeper Duk( tliat CAUGHT IN THE TOILS. 731 of the saloon made his credit good at the game, for all knew well that he would never be led to venture what he could not pay. *' Five thousand more 1 " Hissed forth by the sharper came these words, while his snake-like eyes were riseted on his victim. There was already fifteen thousand at stake on the board. Duke held a very good hand, three kings and two sevens ; but the game had drifted into such wild and reckless bluffing, that the best hand was by no means always allowed to take the money. Even now the sharper might have nothing highe?" than a ten spot, or he might have four aces ; there was no way to tell. Duke's hand was good, very good, considering everything. The chances were at least ten to one the sharper could not beat it. That pot would make him whole, and he would then be free from the infernal toils in which he so unexpectedly found himself. On the other hand it was ruin, absolute and eternal ruin, he felt and knew it to be, if he lost. But his hand ; at least ten to one in his favor. Pale was the face, the heart irregular and jerking, and hollow and sepulchiai the voice as the words came forth "I call I" The sharper could measure accurately enough the Duke's hand ; he knew as well as if he had seen it that it was not so very strong, for had it been the young man would have manifested more confiden^-e. Nor was it by any means a poor hand, else he would iot have called him. He was sure enough of his victim, as with a Satanic smile he slowly laid down on the table one, two, three, four queens. Without speaking a word Duke laid his cards upon the pack, rose from his seat, and beckoning the saloon man to follow, walked out into the darkness, walked on through the darkness until he came to his cabin, when, scraping the dirt from under one corner, brought forth four bags, each containing $5,000 in gold dust. ''This will make it good," he said, as he iiilll 7tt OAlfBUNO. handed it to the saloon man, who thereupon marched back through the darkness. The ruined young man Hkewise stepped forth into the night The cabin was too close for him ; he could not breathe within those so lately happy walls. "It is like a dream ; a horrid, horrid dream. So sudden, so accidental I Yet it is no dream, would to Grod it were ! Fool, fool, fool I No, not fool ; fate I A pistol ball crashing through my brain as I entered that room would have been no less looked for, could have held me scarcely less responsible. Why fate, or providence, or almighty God could be so cruel as to tear from me my hard earnings, my consecrated gold, and give it to that thief, I cannot understand. Punishment? I deserve no punishment. Punish- ment for what? I am an honest man, aye an honest man, and thou God knoweth it; that thing is a thief, and thou God knoweth it. This is omnipotent jus- tice; hell is full of such justice. My gold, aye, my consecrated gold, consecrated to her. Ah Christ I to her, my love I my love 1 " Long he sat upon a stone, his head buried between his hands ; then slowly arose, walked into the cabin, took from his breast a well-worn picture, and holding it close under the dim light of the candle, drank from its lineaments the last draught of a thirsty soul. " Farewell, sweet angel ; thine have I ever been ; thine now no longer ! " Tearing up the pasteboard he scattered the fragments about his cabin floor, blew out the light, stepped forth, fastening the door after him, and took the trail up the river to the high divide, then zig-zag up the mountain. The moon was now abroad, throwing its pale, impotent light as far as it could into the black caflon, at the bottom of which shone a thread of silver foam. " Suicide ? Bah 1 I am no sick simpleton. I am a man. I am not afraid to live. I can suffer. Powers of heaven or hell, I defy you I As you have done to me, so would not I to you. Take from A RUINED LITE. 733 the honest man and give to the thief I Take gold consecrated to the highest and purest affections, and cast it before swine 1 Omnipotent justice ? Bah I again, I say. There Is none such ; no omnipotence and no justice." Up, up, through the pale moonlight, zigzag to the mountain-top, then over the eternal snows, and down toward the great river flowing oceanward, life, love, justice, heaven — words, mere words, windy words, words, words I e 'i Mil CHAPTER XXIV. DUELLING. Falntnff. Honour pricks mo on. Yea, Unt how if honour prick? m* off when I come on? How then ? (Jan honour uet to a leg? No. Or an arm? No. Or take away the grief of a wound? No. H.mour liatli no Hkill in surgery, then? No. VVTiat is honour? A word. Wliat ia in tliat word, lioiiiiur? What is that honour? Air. A trim reckoping ! \\\m hath it? Ho that died o'WednescJay. Uoth he foul it? No. Doth he lu-ar it? No. 'Tis inspusihlo, then. Yea, to tlio death But will it not live with the living? No. Wiiy ? DetrfkCtion will not suffer it; therefore I'll none of it; honour is a mere 'scutcheon and so ends my oatechism. The time is i)ast when to nii average intellect the neeessitv exists of deuounciou: fluelliny;, and we have now only to regard with aatonisliment the boiHJnge of our a'H'estors to this follv. In tiie evolution of pro- gress, fashion, that ia to say actively exju-esscd opinion or belief, is constantly undergoing change ; indeed, change of belief, and corresponding action, is ])rogr('ss. And as some of the beJitfs of past ages arc to us ab- surdities so gross that wo can only wonder hf»w some minds could for a niomeut have entertained them, so will certain of our creeds and conduct appear to gen- erations following. Take for example woman; alonj; the liiL'hwavs of liistory how variable her condition I Alternately slave and saijit, n»»w she is tlic drudge and chattel (vf man and nt>w his comj)anion and idol. To us the strangest of all strange pa-ssions that ever blotted the human heart, seems that fnun which s])rung the cruel treatment of women which forn!(>d a prominent feature in ai.eient ami half-civihzed warfare. What to us could possi!)ly seem more unnotund than the pietnre of an enraged soldier in whom blind furvlmd so swal- ( -■■.•» ) lowe byt: fair ( Tl with SL-pp( whicl as m beat huma blush own i TJj. savagi vidual Ids w tribes, ing th( now th mcmbt Tlie stition Were n •Suflfere arbitra lible; ( in the intellec the aln these tl fastene* turios eradicat It W'i tournai and foHt that th( tiona. place of I ] OBIOIN OP THE DUELLO. 78B lowed all other passions that he should delight to drag by the hair about the streets of a conquered city its fair dauiihters in torn robes and with bl^^ofUng limbs ? Then there is the institution of slavery, which within these few centuries had half the world for its supporters, that most anomalous of social anomalies, which under the laws of man enable man to hold man as merchandise, to own him, order him, bind him, beat him, kill him — no one to-day openly upholds human slavery as in the abstract right but would blush for his opinion did he but know the depth of liis own ignorance and error. Tlie origin of the duello may be sought in that savage sentiment of justice which made e\ery indi- vidual the indicator of liis rijjlits and tlie avi-Uiier of his wrongs. Before tlie coalescence of wandering tribes, and in the absence of a central power embody- ing the delegated riglit of individuals, that wliich is now the tdtima ratio regum, was then the riglit of every member of the patriarcltal association. Thence tlie sentiment assunie<i tlie form of super- stition. The earlier methods of deterinining guilt were no less imperfect than tlioso at present m force. Sufferers saw that governors and judges appointed to arbitrate betw(?en accuser and accused were not infal- lible; consequently appeal to a higher power direct, in the form of combat, became a custom. When tlie intellect v/as so far emancipated as to perceive that the almighty did not interpose the finger of justice in tlie.se trials of brute force, tl.j practice hadalrtiuly so fastened itself upon society as a fashion, that for cen- turies neither right nor reason was abU; wholly to eradicate it. It was during the ago of clilvalry wheji tilts and tournaments encouraged a dis[>lay of personal prowess. and fostered the worship of couragu and punctilio, that the .luel assumed its most magnificent propor- tions. In legal proceedings it sometimes took the place of an oath, Public opinion kept the practice iu m 736 DUELUNO. vo J, e long after its folly was seen and admitted, even by those who felt obliged to recognize the code. Duelling was attackeo. by reason, sarcasm, and elo- quence, long with little apparent avail. The best cure was to withhold all sympathy both from the murderer and the murdered. The death of Hamilton at the hand of Burr excited national sympathy; yet why, with his more than ordinary insight into the absurdi- ties of the practice, and his more than ordinary ab- horrence of it, he should be entitled to extraordinar}" pity in the display of his weakness I cannot understand. Why is it that when of all animals, civilized man alone finds a code of laws necessary to his social exist- ence, that in his fighting attributes the nearer lie ap- proaches to bull-dog pluck and game-cock endurance, the nearer he imitates the prizefighter and the sav- age in his killing qualities, the more manly a man is he ? In fighting, points of emulation and honor are taken from boasts, but in the necessities of govern- ment and law even beasts and savages may well hold us hi contempt. When King John of England, for the health of his soul, as he affirms, though in truth for the safety of his head, reluctantly granted his mailed barons the magna cliarta, the keystone of English liberty, as Hallam calls it, was laid. When Martin Luthor raised his protest against the iniquities and errors of the church bv nailing his theses to the door of tli(> Schlosskirke at Wurtenberg, the bull of excommuni- cation that followed enfranchised half Christendom. When Thomas Jefferson's declaration of independence was passed by the congress assembled at Philadelphia, the latest and fairest type of liberty appeared, stain- loss, save one foul blot, and that by the emancipation proclamation of Abraham Lincoln was washed awav. We who inherit the fruits of these several displays of progressional phenomena, and which embody all tho benefits of civil and religious liberty ; we whoso gov- ernment is the mildest uudcr which civilized man has A VILE PRACnCE. 7»7 yet lived, being imposed unconditionally by ourselves ; Vv'e whose beliefs are unsiiaekled, and whose intellects are wanton as the air — were it an attribute of human- ity to be absolutely free, surely we might boast our freedom. But absolute freedom is not an attribute of human- ity, or if it be, the germ of such freedom does not appear. Since the days of feudal serfdom, of trial by combat, of inquisition and impositions, some progress has been made, but progress only of certain kmds and in certain directions. Palpable bondage we object to, and thanks to our forefathers are fairly enough rid of, but bondage impalpable, as far exceeding the other as the infinite exceeds the finite, yet remains. Fetters whicli we cannot feel we wear as gracefully as ever. And no fetters imposed by the tyranny of fashion on stupid, ignorant man liave been more galling to the wearers, Imve been worn witli less comfort, bringing ikpon tho.se under bondage to it that very contempt to avoid which they subjected themselves to it, render- ing them by means of their unhappy adornment all t]\e more ridiculous in the eves of all sensible men — none more absurd and wicked than the duello. Nor may we yet boast our freedom from it. Though by every rigiitminded member of society a duellist— juid no less those who aid and abet him — is regarded a nmrderer, the slave of a savage superstition civilized by senseless fashion, and is denounced as a thing vile atul contaminating, yet the wars which myriads of men itnlulgc in as the ultimate appeal in the settlement of their differences is but another phase (»f the same superstition. What can there be more hateful and unholy, what rin there be less in accord with their profession, and the spirit of the divine Christ which they aim to in- culcate, than for ministers of the gospel, ranged on cither side of a bloody arbitration, to mount their )>ulpits and solemnly invoke the god of battles to give them victory for the justness of their cause and the C'Ai.. Int. Poc. 47 Ytl DUELLING. glory of his name? "Very wonderful 1" as Dr John- son would say. "Would that it were impossible." This is exactly what individual combatants did a few centuries ago, and which we now so righteously condemn. The only vital diflerence between war and the duello is that one is a national and the other an individual affair; and we are not yet sufficiently ad- vanced in reason to realize that what is wrong in a unit of the nation is wrong in the nation. True, when the units of society delegate their rights to a general government acting for the common good, it is their duty to leave them there, and not to interfere wicli the functions of government by breaking its laws in the effort to right their own wrongs. Society alone possesses tlie right to chastise. But should the gov- ernment become impotent or corrupt, and fail to dosil justly with the individuals composing it, then the in- dividuals may withdraw the rights delegated, and act for tliemselves if they have the power. Either duel- ling is right or war is wrong. In Christian countries the actions of men are meas- ured by two tests, the approbation of the creator, and the happiness of the creature, though as tlie subject is more closely inspected, one test appears to bo equivalent to the other. How nmch needless disput'; there has been about reason and revelation, their con- tradictions and absurdities. Between the two there is no discord, else reason is unreason and revelation a lie. The law of nature and of morality and the law of God are one; not that God and nature are therein' made one, but nature's law and nature's morals arc God's law and morals. Some call this appeal to battle Gr-d's plan, and so, indeed, it is ; else in place of this now apparently only way, he would appoint some other. Probably reli- gious wars have exceeded all otliers in extent and intensity among civilized nations. Now, why shouM God wisl) a hundred thousand of his creatures in God's name to slay another hundred thousand who asseniblj ABSURDITIES OP WAR. 780 to the slaughter for the love of God ? Is truth found and opinion reconciled tliereby ? Is man in his ulti- mate endeavor only physical ? The killing alters no facts in the case. Must reason, then, gu for naught ? Can no way but brute force be found to set- tle ultimate dilferences? Then give the brutish in our nature the glory, and talk no more of the ma- jesty of mind. All admit that war is an evil — a necessary evil, some say, though necessary evil implies good, for the presence of the evil is better for us than the absence of it; hence, war is not an evil but a benefit. In other words, there is no such thing as necessary evil. War is an evil; who is to blame for it? Not you or I, for we would put an end to it if we could ; not tlio nation, which is but an aggregation of you's and I's; not the rulers of mankind, who can do nothing of lasting moment without the acquiescence of the ruled. We simply know that it is ; not why nor whence. Virtue they call it, on both sides the same; they are noble men and true, they who fight for the ideal, whatever it may be, religion, country, freedom. Vir- tue then wars on virtue; this is the truth of it, for virtue is never wholly on one side, and he is virtuous who fights for what he believes right, whether he be right or not. Virtue then slays virtue, as vice kills vice. War and religion; strange companion?<hip. One kills to cure, and the other cures to kill. Kill and call it honor; serve God and butcher his people! Why should hate be glorified ai.d deadly strife; that thing we so despise in brutes, prize-figliterw, bull-fighters, duellists, and all that ilk, why in nations should we so exalt it? Both to the memory of the slain in battle, and to those who kill them, poots raise their most exalted strains, and God's ministers bless them from sacred desks. Hirelings or haters it is all the same, if they fight brutally well let them be ex- alted. Let truth and humanity be taught, instead of fanaticism and brute force, and war, liko any other 710 DUELLING. Ravagism, will l)ecoine a disgrace, and the Boldicr will carry on his brow the curse of Cain. Single combats for the deciding of special difTer- en( e8 come down to us from ancient dates. Many are found in the Illiad of Homer, and the Hebrew scriptures, the Mahometan, Greek, and Roman records contain the accounts of some. But it was during the Dark Age that trial by combat assumed its deepest color of superstition. Attended with religious cere- monies the wager of battle was then a direct appeal to the decision of the almighty, and success was proof of right. The ordeal was recognized, and in (criminal cases which seemed to be soluble in no other way, ganctioned by law. Upon the establishment of the dogma of Francis T. that " the lie was never to be put up with without satisfaction, but by a baseborn fellow," lies were classified and thirty -two distinct methods of satisfac- tion pronounced. From France duelling then spread ia[)idly all over Europe. During the reign of Louis XIII. duelists would join the left handa and stab each other with the right; they would enter a dark or lighted room and there remain until only one could ]o.a\c. Females have fought their duels in France Finally edicts were issued for its suppression, but the custom had become so rooted to the sentiment of honor that pardons were almost as frequent as the offence. To obviate the necessity of personal encounter, tribunals of honor for the reconciliation of disputes in the army were established in Prussia; if the court failed in its purpose the duel took place, and after the offence imprisonment. The students of the Ger- man universities indulged freely in ^.his pastime, wear- ing armor and fighting with swords; but the boys seldom hurt each other. In England duels became more common as society became more refined and orderly; disputes were settled by the individuals themselves rather than by more general engagements. Eng ignoi dueli Two in A often leade parti* In there all tj hearti to ki] thems the CO event which how a a wron greatei husbai] infamo To call tagonia duellist all men ing bra tardy " for thei Bytl butcher follow f( as a fag grossly sort of efficiency very qua iraltntion order wii THE CODE IN CALIFORNIA. 741 England's gi'eatest statefsnicn were not so great as to ignore the custom. The Irish were famous for their dueUstic proclivities. The Scotch were more wary. Two Plymouth serving-men inaugurated the system in America in 1621, and subsequently Boston has often indulged in this method of arbitration. The leaders of the revolution, and of subsecjuent political parties were not above this superstition. In the hostile encounters of the California miners there was that same directness which characterized all their proceedings. Simple-minded and single- hearted they did not understand why, if they wished to kill a man, they should at the same time set themselves up to be killed by him. That might bo the code; but it was a very foolish code. In any event it was murder; but it made a vast difference which did the killing. They could not understand how a debt should be cancelled by increasing it, how a wrong should be avenged by covering it with a greater wrong, or how the honor of the outraged husband or father should be healed by permitting the infamous tempter of female chastity to shoot him. To call it cowardly to take at disadvantage an an- tagonist was of no avail, for they would tell you that duellists, whipped to position by public opinion, are of all men the greatest cowards. Therefore, with blaz- ing brain and blood red hot they did not wait for the tardy "lie direct; the "reply churlish" being enough for them. By those who deal in human blood, who make the butchering of their fellows a profession which they follow for gain or glory, as well as those who adopt it as a fashion, the terms courage and cowardice are grossly misapplied. In civilized warfare courage is a sort of military idolatry, fostered for the greater efficiency of the organization. It is composed of the very qualities which it affects to despise, emulation, imitation, and fear. The soldier dare not brave an order with an opinion, dare not appear to be afraid, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) // ^^ J<^^£p. 1.0 I.I i^llM 1125 .r m ? »«- IIIIM 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" — ► V] <^ A^^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN ST^fET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 «y S'3^ ///// fA DUELLING, dare not listen to conscience, to humanity, to right or reason. Soul and sense alike are sunk in a slough of brute persistence. Discipline demands it, we are told ; and the more fully this dehumanizing process has been carried out, the more effective the army. The brutalization of the man is the first step; then infure a fiendish spirit, and place all under the re- strictions of necessary forms, and you have an organ- ization fit for scientific slaughter. And the more to blind our eyes to the hideous creation, we make it the nation's moral ideal. Courage becomes synono- mous with virtue; whatever interferes with the growth and exercise of courage is deemed vicious. With the ancient Romans the culture of the fine arts was regarded a vice. The sentiment as found in the duel is much more frivolous. The bravery of the duellist is bravado; his heroism is based on pusillanimous timidity. No man whose hate is so deep-seated and vindictive as to be satiated only by another's blood, will place his own life within the range of equal probabilities of sacrifice unless driven to it by that power most appalling to its votaries, public opinion. Cowardice underlies the courage of the duellist. He fights because he dare lii t refuse. Religion, right, reason, are swallowed in the abject terror inspired by the frown of his asso- ciates. Half crazed, it may be, in the performance of his unwelcome obligation, he stands before his ad- versary the captive slave of cowardice, whose uncon- trollable thoughts seem to whirl him along in frenzied dance like an Orestes or a Hamlet. To all such scarecrows as sv)ciety courage, the cut- throats of the Californian Inferno were profoundly indifferent. Did one wish to kill another, one sought the other and slew on sight. Or, if fired by ambition, the informal duellist might give notice that he was then upon the war path, and should shoot a certain man if not first shot by him. But it was only where murder was raised to a fine art, as among journalists, MISSION DUELLING GROUNDS. 743 politicians, and those whose bread depended upon public opinion, that persons were found so lost to moral courage and manliness as to decline to fight where they had no desire to slay. Glacus, the Spartan, consulted the oracle at Delphi concerning the restoration of certain money in his pos- session to the rightful owner. " May I not" he asked, " purge myself by oath after the Greek fashion and so keep the money ? '" Thus from his courage, as Glacus from his honestv, the duellist in vain beseeches his gods to deliver him. Socrates, if he wished to punish an enemy, would let him escape punishment. "If he has stolen a sum of money " he says, " let him keep it, and spend it on him and his, regardless of religion and justice ; and if he has done things worthy of death, let him not die, but rather be immortal in his wickedness." So would not the miners of California. Of all men in the community during that epoch of our history when insult could be washed out but by blood alone, those who mouthed it most loudly, and with sanctimonious visage sighed over the desecration of our holy law, were the first to break it when what they called their honor was at stake. The duelling grounds in early times were at the Mission. There was no need of secrecy in those days, for sheriffs and judges never attended except as spec- tators. Some of the most noted duellists of the day sat upon the supreme bench and talked soberly about the unsound principles of the anarchic and revolu- tionary vigilance movement, and how by it all rights of persons and security of prt)perty founded on consti- tutional compact and legal form would be destroyed. How vain and absurd ! Honest, order-loving men may not strike one blow at a public scourge, one blow for the commonwealth, for themselves, their friends, yet their judges and those who denounce them shall forsooth be praised for jumping from the bench and breaking the law for the simple gratification of a hot :7U DUELLING. passion. What was the duello, which code most of these men recognized, but an appeal to private combat for offences alleged to have been committed against the arbitrary rules of society, against courtesy or eti- 3uette, so-called laws of honor, which courts of law id not recognize ? Journalists and politicians were those who most delighted in this sort of argument. Their honor seemingly required more care than that of others, and it was necessary to keep it well patched, and not ex- pose it too recklessly. But among the sporting fra- ternity the code found some adherents, and now and then a butcher and a baker attempted to balance their books in that way, so that altogether there was at one time a new duel for every issue of the Sunday's paper. "Je veux biendtretue; mais mouille, non." "lam willing to be killed, but I am not willing to be wet," cried Sainte-Beuve as lie stood in the rain before Du- bois, and regardless of the expostulations of the sec- onds, fired four shots from under an umbrella. Among the encounters of the early Spanish Amer- ican adventurers were those of Velasco and Ponce de Leon, who during the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella chose a narrow bridge near Madrid, where they were to fight without armor, in doublet and hose, with spears ; of Ojeda and Nicuesa, who at Santo Domingo talked of settling their differences by combat, until the latter stipulated that each should put up $25,000 to fight for; of Nunez, the young page of Cortes, who at Mexico in 1521 begged permission to accept the challenge of a Mexican of great prowess, who, armed with sword and buckler, defied the Spaniards to single combat. After a desperate struggle the page slew his antagonist, and bore to Cortes the spoils of victory. But the most notable afiair of those in which America was interested, was the challenge and almost immedi- ate death of Diego Alvarado, who oiFered to fight with Hernando Pizarro in Spain in 1539. Pizarro EARLY ILLUSTRATIONS. 1# had unjustly condemned and executed Almagro, Al- varado's friend. Five days after sending the challenge Alvarado died, and dark suspicion fell on Pizarro, whose misdeeds in Peru were well known, and who was subsequently confined for twenty years. Cortes himself had frequent affairs of honor before coming to America. Pillet, of the Pacific Fur Company, in May 1813 at the Spokane house in Washington, fought a duel with Montour of the Northwest Company with pocket pistolsat six paces. Both were hit ; one in the coatcollar and the other in the trowsers' leg. Two men, one from each of the respective companies, acted as sec- onds. The wounds were all duly healed by the tailor. Unhappy the day that brings accursed culture to a simple home. Civilization teaches savagism how to cheat at gambling, how to give and accept a challenge, but when it comes to actual fighting then each pre- fers its own way. In August 1814 a chief at Fort Spokane was accused by a gigantic Scotch trapper, McDonald, of having played unfairly while gambling, and was told that he must come out and fight, for he had been insulted and either he or the Scotchman must die, for the world was not large enough to hold a Scotchman and a Spokane who had gambled and quarrelled. When the chief was informed of the or- thodox way affairs of thail kind were conducted, he greatly wondered that men could be so foolish as openly to stand before each other's fire, and insisted that they should retire to the woods where each might choose a tree to stand behind, and dodge for the first fire. Failing to agree, friends interposed and the belligerents were pacified. In 1845 a man was brought before a judge in Ore- gon for challenging another to fight a duel, and in accordance with a law just passed, he was fined $500 and disfranchised for life. In truth there seemed to be more challenging than fighting, a genuine chal- 'ii'M I I m ti 746 DUELLING. lenge being almost equivalent in importance to a duel in many places. In 1 8 1 6 Jose de la Guerra y Noriegn and one Aspiroz were dining at Governor Sola's house when they quarreled, and the former challenged the latter. The governor and two padres \vrote to Aspiroz begging him to withdraw the challenge. There the matter rested, but the feud was not wholly healed until five yeois later. It was common among the Hispano-Californians to re- sort to the duello as a cure for jealousy, and for quarrels over cards or elsewhere. They usually fought with knives or old swords, and they cut one another at a terri- ble rate until fatigued, when they would rest, or until one cried enough, when the other would dictate terms. Witnesses were not allowed. Common places of meeting were the Huerta Vieja, the Huerta del Rey, and Canada de la Segunda. In a Canada near Santa Bdrbara, in 1825, Cabo Canuto Borondo and Meliton Soto, paisanos, fought a duel. Soto was the challenger, and there were no witnesses to the affair. Civil proceedings were insti- tuted, and the matter was likewise referred to the ecclesiastical court. Father Duran as vicario foraneo made the following report. The church, he says, can not look with indifference on the almost certain and eternal damnation of those who die in a duel, and has accordingly imposed the most terrible punishment to prevent such wickedness, namely, "excommunion mayor late sententia ipso facto incurrenda." The bull "detestibilum" of Pope Benedict XIV. denied burial in consecrated ground for those who died in conse- quence of this offence, an offence springing from a most pernicious custom, introduced by the devil to capture men's souls. The plea of ignorance would not answer for an excuse ; only absolution ad causelam would make right the hereafter. In the mission archives of San Diego I find that in CALIFORNIA CASES. 747 1836, for sending a challenge to fight a duel, Thomas Russell was fined ten dollars and confiscation of hia pistol, or ten days in the guard house. In 1841 Uribe was fined five dollars for offering to fight a duel with a bone ; and Ybarra was fined a dollar and a half for accepting the challenge. This last mentioned amount was more than Terry paid for killing Erode rick. In 1843 the noted Indian chief, Gdscolo, was the terror of the San Josd jurisdiction, which for jears he had kept in a state of constant alarm. He was tall in person, of a deep bronze color, and with a look of cau- tion in his eyes ; very ferocious, and in a hand-to- hand fight as valiant as he was savage. Ever an en- emy of the white man, during his long career of de- predation and murder he never pardoned him wlio fell into liis hands. Francisco Palomares, a noted Indian fighter and by his own showing, although de razon no less of a savage than Gdscolo, thus describes the lat- ter's death Having committed some peculiarly atrocious mur- ders near San Josd, G6scolo was pursued by Corporal Pena, and the escolta. of that mission, consisting of some five or six men, accompanied by 100 of the mis- sion Indians de giierra. Pena came upon Goscolo's band unawares, and arranged his vastly superior force in a circle, which gradually contracted round Goscolo and his followers, who, to a man, died fighting within it. One of Pena's auxiliaries, a personal encni}'^ of G6s- colo, asked leave of his commander to challenge him to single combat. This permission was given, Pena ordering the battle to be temporarily suspended. Thereupon the mission Indian in his own tongue challenged G6scolo, who accepted, and moved to an unobstructed spot near by, whither the challenger followed him. The high contending parties were each armed with a bow and arrows. Within view of the opposing forces they began to shoot at one another. At each shot both advanced a little, or mauceuvred i \ \W\ m ! I; w DUELLING. for better position. This continued for nearly an hour before either was wounded. Finally, after they had advanced to within a few yards of each other, the niissicn Indian contrived to drive an arrow through his adversary's heart. Goscolo's death was the signal for the resumption of the suspended battle, and his disheartened followers soon succumbed. Pena caused Goscolo's head to be brought to him, and with his own hands affixing it to his lance, carried it to the mission of San Jose, where he ordered it nailed to a tree in front of the church door, and there it remained for two or three months. After G6scolo's death there was a notable diminution of Indian depredations in the San Jose jurisdiction. Fremont and Mason, while at Angeles in 1847, in- dulged in the pastime of making faces and calling each other bad names. Fremont did not like Mason over him as master, and Mason did not admire Fremont's behavior as subordinate. Fremont thought Mason's plan was to provoke a challenge, and then to kill him with a shotgun, in the use of which Mason was very expert, while Frdmont was not. Fremont then studied patience, but that was worse than the shot-gun; his distempered thoughts at length broke into violent words, and almost before he knew it, trial by shotgun was upon him. Then swiftly passed death-missivrs to and fro, and a fearful preparation for combat, wlicn General Kearny placed his veto upon the sanguinary frolic, and the soil of California was spared the threat- ened draught of bad blood. Joshua W. Collett, captain in the United States army, was slain in a duel in Mexico in 1848. In De- cember of this year Salvador Nieto was condemned to six months' public labor by a jury of six of Lis countrymen for challenging Nicolas Silvas to combat and firing a pistol at him. Silvas was subjected to three months' labor for accepting the challenge. At Eureka in 1850 the somewhat stale play of a A SHAM DUEL, 749 sham duel came off, the only feature ahout it making it worthy of mention being the narrow escape from tleath of the victim. The fact is, those wonmnless towns would do anything for fun. Two friends, Ray- mond and Tucker, quarreled; the former challenged, and the latter accepted. Both were brave and noble young men, but Tucker was the best shot. He did not wish to kill his friend, however easily he might do so; indeed, he would not hurt a hair of his head. Sliotguns were the weapons, but instead of balls, which had been agreed upon, the guns were loaded with blank cartridges. This was known to Tucker, but not to Raymond or his second. To the five hun- dred opt;n-mouthed and panting spectators the trick was likewise unknown and unsuspected. At the first fire Tucker fell, and the red gore spilled from his breast. The crowd was stricken with horror. The prostrate man was carefully taken up, and borne to the house of a friend. Raymond fled, and escaped the fury of tlie people, for Tucker was a favorite. The man who acted as Raymond's second, however, was less fortunate, and before he was fairly away, amidst angry cries of " Seize him 1" "Hang him 1" a rush was made, and it was only by declaring to them the joke tliat his life was saved. Raymond lived three weeks in the belief that he had killed his friend. Following is a copy of a California challenge : San Francisco, August 3, '54. Mr W. R. Graham. Sir — Your denial this morning of the arrangement made between us, and your insulting conduct in that connection, leaves me no resource but to demand the redress that a gentleman has a right to expect. Tliis will be handed you by my friend, Judge Mc- Gowan, who has full authority to act for me. Respectfully, M. E. Flannaoan. Some time in January 1851, Mr Walker, one of the editors of the San Francisco Herald expressed fears M' Ml" li i 750 DUELLING. that the public administrator and probate judge had pickled rather than preserved a certain estate. Tlie administrator took exceptions to such personalities and threatened to cowhide the editor. W. H. Gra- ham, a friend of the probate judge, then wrote an in- sulting letter to the editor which provoked a challongo. They fought with pistols and Walkf^r was woundid. Captain Folsom assisted in loading tiie pistols, wliich the seconds seemed unacquainted with, and witnossotl the fight. Graham was arrested and held to bail in the sum of $5,000. The same year W. H. Graham and H. Lemon ex- changed several sjiots with revolvers, one of which wounded the latter in the shoulder. A difficulty arose between Hopkins, deputy collector and Taylor, inspector at San Francisco in 1851. They agreed to meet at Benicia, but Taylor was arrested and placed under bonds to keep the peace. E. Stanley and S. W. Inge, representatives in con- gress at Washington in 1851, one from North Caro- lina and the otlier from Alabama, after a foolish and empty jangle of words upon tlie floor of the house, withdrew with pistols in order to kill each other. After the exchange of one shot, fearing if continued some one might be hurt, an aperture of escape was found, and the farce ended. These men both figured subsequently in California. S. Wethered and otie Schaffer exchanged sliots with guns in 1851 and were stopped by the authorities, If Christians fight, may not heathen ? Meek in manner and peaceful in action as the Chinese ordina- rily are, they are yet, on occasions, capable of the most coid-blooded savagery, and will slash each other to pieces with diabolical zest. Their ideas of the code are particularly murderous. A dispute occurring:; among a number of them on the Mokelumne river in the spring of 1851, relative to certain money matters, the interested parties locked themselves in a (^•^l•k room, and proceeded to arbitrate the matter sum ma- DURING THE FLUSH TIMES. m rlly with knives and iron bars, resultin*? in the slaying and maiming of most of tiionj. How they distin- guislied friend from foe is a mystery ; but to do so was part of the performance. Bloodless barbarians as they are, these people are not wanting in that reckless disregard for life which more civilized nations soberly term heroism. During the first week in September 1851 George McDougal and E. C. Kemblc, editor of the Alta ('(di- fnniia, met twice, Komblo being the challcngor. The law, jealous perhaps of the ancient form of trial by combat, interfered at both meetings, and meanwhile the blood of the belligerents cooled. Out among the bushes in the suburbs of San Fran- cisco, on the 10th of September, 1851, Joseph L. Folsom, graduate of West Point, captain in the United States army, chief of the quartermaster's de- partment on the northwestern coast, first American collector in California, and operator in Leidesdorff es- tate and Yerba Buena sand hills, met A . C. Kussell, both bent upon offering on the altar of their vengeance the life of the other, that honor — without which Mexican wars and advance in San Francisco real estate brought no solace — now smeared and sulky, might be appeased. It was just becoming dark on the evening of that day, when these men mt t to kill each other. The rabbits and quails paused he fore re- tiring, to witness the singular spectacle. None of them had ever before seen a duel fought, as the cus- tom did not obtain among any species of beast kjiown to them. After two shots each, the fiery combatants embraced and went home. The rabbits and quails were disi^usted. A conundrum was the cause of it ; it takes but little stirring to set effervescing bad blood mixed with bad whiskey. Wine they called it this time; wine, conviviality, and conundrums. In October IKfil at Nevada, George M. Dibble, a whilom midshipman, m DUELLING. told E. B. Lundy, a Canadian, that ho was a liar. Now it is a small matter, comparatively, to bo a liar, but a threat one to be told of it. Lundy replied with opprobrious epithets, when Dibble challenged him. The figiit came off on the Yuba, about eighteen niihs from Nevada; pistols, fifteen paces. Dibble's pluit was to draw Lundy's fire and then deliberately to kill him. At the signal Lundy fired, and with an oatli Dibble exclaimed. *'You have fired too soonl" Dib- ble's second asked him, "Are you satisfied?" Whero- ui)on Dibble opened his coat and exposed the places where the ball had passed through his body. Ho was thoroughly satisfied. Pushing aside those who offered to sui)i)ort him he walked about 1 50 yards and fell, dying in about twenty minutes. If all trials by combat might end as justly as this, one could almost sanction this species of arbitration. Tlie man killed gave the insult and gave the challenge ; it was simply right that he should die. Lundy was arrested and the seconds gave themselves up voluntarily. John Morrison killed William Leggett at the third fire in 1852. This was a year prolific in pistoling. A. C. Peachy, legislator, and James Blair, goverment officer, figure in the duelling annals of 1852. About the first of March o this same vear, a war of words occurred at Sacramento between ex-governor William Smith and David C. Broderick, which, however, was amicably settled. The governor's son, J. Caleb Smith, was not satisfied, and came out in a card in the Democratic State Journal of March 10th, publishing Broderick as a liar, scoundrel, and blackguard. Both were in San Francisco at the time, and it was ex- pected that soon there would be a first-class street fight. Nearly a week passed without a collision, and the crowds began to grow tired of congregating on the corners to witness the show. At length the gladia- tors appeared near the comer of Front and Sacra- mento streets. Five hundred people were soon on hand to be again disappointed. During this time IIAYKS A\l> NUCKXT. m mutual fritMulH wore nejjfotiatiu^ ; Siiiitli witlitlrow tlio (•K'lisivc card, and chalK'iV'-fd Jiis aiitajjjonlst. Tliov nu't oil tlio I7tli across the l)ay, a mile from slu.re, on a flat |)icco of «.^round, four seconds and two sunjfcons, with a county judij^e and sluTifl* bein^ in the distance. Weajxins, Colts' navy revolvers. Smith won the choice of ijrround, distance ten paces. Twelve shots wore fired in all. Smith's third shot hit Broderick's watch, passinjjj through it and slit»htly woundinij him. At the second fire Broderick's pistol failed t(» revolve, and from that time his whole front was exposed to Smith's fire, as ho was compt^lled to u; < 1>otii haiuls. Both were cool. Smith was 8atisfi(»d. X'o arrests were made, as in the case of McDongal a short time before. On board the boat from San Francisco to Sacra- mento in May, a dispute arose between \V. J f. Cart<>r and ii. A. DeCourcy, editor of the Caiav^ras ('linni- icle, in which Carter slapped DeCourcy's face. Do- Courcy then challenged Carter, and on reachmjj;' Sacramento they crossed the river and fought witli pistols twenty paces. i^eCourcy was struck at the first fire and the battle ended. The 16th of June a duel was fought by two French- men at Sonora, California, in which one of them was killed. A mining claim was the matter in dispute. Near the racecourse at San Fraticisco, the 8th of July, Wethered and Winter fought with Colt's revol- vers at ten paces. After the first shot Winter's pist(»l revolved with difficulty, and at the fourth shot ho received a ball in the side which struck his ribs and gliding round made a Hesh wound which terminated tho affair. At a banquet tendered to Colonel Magruder of San Diego by the Angeles citizens, in 1852, tlie (|ucs- tion of groat men came up, and a doctor made mellow with wine declared that his father was the greatest American. Magruder called ohe doctor a danined fool. A challenged followed : derringers across a i ; Cal. Int. Poc. 48 754 DUELLING. table at a restaurant; to be fired after "ready I fire I one, two, three 1" At the word "ready" the doctor fired and missed, whereupon the Colonel marched round the table upon his terrified opponent. Aftrr a vain attempt to escape by the door which had bi'ci barred by the spectators, the doctor crept under tl c, table and, embrachig the legs of Magruder, cri.-d : "Colonel Magruder, for the love of God, spare n;o for my family's sake." the colonel gave him a ku k and left. John Nugent, editor of the San Francisco Ifrrahl, and John Cotter, alderman from the fourth ward, fought with pistols at ten paces the 15th of July, 1852, at Contra Costa. The hour fixed for tlio meeting was twelve o'clock. The principals crossed to Contra Costa the night previous. About half past eleven the steamboat arrived with the sur- geons, seconds, and a crowd of friends and news- mongers. It was very much like going to a horse- race. The moment the boat landed a rush was ma«!(^ for conveyance to the ground about two miles distant. Soon upon the road thither was a line of horses and vehiclesof every description. Cotter was on the ground and ready at five minutes before twelve, but Nugent by some misunderstanding did not make his appear- ance until half-past two. Inunediately on Nugi'nt's arrival the pistols were loaded, the distance measurtc', and tlie combatants placed in position. At the woid the first shot was fired simultaneously and withoi.t effect. Nugent's pistol snapped and bending to ank it Cotter's ball struck his left thigh, producing a compound fracture. Had he not moved the ball would not have touched him. Nugent fell and w;:s carried off by the surgeons. The ball was extracted, and, with honor repaired, the wound was not slow to heal. It seemed incumbent on Nugent to shoot aldermen, or rather to be shot by them, for again the followinLi; year we find him fiiiLtino; Alderman Haves with rlHe^ GILBERT AND DEN\'ER. 736 at twenty paces. As before, a large number of s]K'o- tators were present, and at the second tire Nugent fell severely wounded. Terms of duel between Haves and Nu<jjent. San Francisco, June 8, 1853. Mr H. Bowen. Dr Sir — The terms that I propose with roferenro to the contemplated meeting between Mr Hayes and Mr Jolm Nugent are as follows : Place in rear of Mr Green's residence. Time eight o'clock a. m., June 9th. Distance 18 paces. Weapons to be used by both parties, compottMit army Colt revolvers. Challenge of John Nugent by W. H. Jones. San Francisco, Aug. 11, 1852 ^Ir Jno. Nugent. Sir — The insult oHorod me requires satisfat tion. !M\' friend Mr Lewis Tral is authorized by me to make the arrangements. Your Ob't S't, Wm H. Jones. Edward Gilbert, member of the convention f«ir forming the state constitution, one of the first Cal':- fornian representatives to congress, and senior editor of the AHa California newspaper, at tlie tuwe only thirty -three years of age, was killed by J. W. Deli- ver, state senator from Klamath and Trinity countii s, the 2d of August, 1852, at Oak Grove near Sacra- mento. The men had never seen each other until they met upon the fatal field. A bill for th(> relief of overland inunigrants had been passed by Uw last legislature, which Gilbert believed to be inrtfettuid and wrong, and done solely in the interests of ])()li- ticians. Denver was pron)inent in the atfair. being a personal friend of Bigler, and coimected with the relief train. With a great show of charity, which Gilbert ridiculed, Bigler had escorted the supply train out of Sacramento. In reply to Gilbert's arti- ri'iiiiif 756 DUELLING. cles, Denver published a card couched in uncourteous language. Gilbert replied and Denver retorted; Gilbert challenged and Denver accepted. Thej'' fougiit at sunrise with Wesson's rifles, at forty paces. The first fire was without eftect. At the second fire Gilbert fell, the ball entering just above the left hip. His second immediately rushed up, when Gilbert turned his face toward him with a smile, and died without a groan. On the 11th of December, 1852, a few days after he ceased to be governor, John McDougal met A. C. Russell, one of the editors of the San Francisco Picayune, in an affair of honor. The cause was an offensive article in the Picayune, of which Russell was the author. They met on the San Jose road in Santa Clara county, ten paces, pistols. Russell received a bullet in the breast at the first fire, inflicting a slight wound, which ended the fight. In sanguinary unrest, with grey eyes murderously set, W. M. Gwin and J. W. McCorkle, professional politicians, met in 1853 near the Santa Clara line, to blot out in blood some horse-race talk. After one grand shot with rifles at thirty paces, both seemed thoroughly satisfied. If the thing was continued, it miglit cease to be amusing; rifles were rifles, and thirty steps were not far. So the two braves smiled, and the deputation of punctilious spitfires smiled, and swore it was all a mistake, that nobody meant any- thing, and that everybody else was only too glad that everybody else was glad. And so wise men and knaves all went home together. In truth, it is a wonderful phenomenon, this mixture of folly, gun- powder, and fear. Oliver T. Baird, in 1853, at the second fire shot C. J. Wright in the neck. The 3d of November, 1853, C. Krug, editor of the San Francisco Frcie Presse, independent German paper, and Dr Loehr, editor of the Califoniia Democrat, the Gerr edltd med£ AttJ thel some m Rovve the 5i Pel oflScer and su agaiijs San F tols a years c Ciia: with d« of Feb ieft an A]fr( challen sistant fifteen throu "ightof Rust, the He their pij poreally, Durin for duels tier-strik of this y( a week o meeting other as J. P. Il 1 THE MANIA OF 1854. m German state administration organ, settled certain editorial ditferences just back of San Antonio in Ala- meda county. Colts' navy revolvers, at six paces. At the third fire Loehr's thumb was carried away by the bullet of his antatjonist. The trouble arose from some objectionable personalities in the Democrat. May, senator from Trinity county, shot Edward Rowe, express agent, in the neck at twenty paces on the 5th of November, 1853, at Weaverville. Peter Smith, son of Pinckney Smitli of Mississippi, officer under Jefferson Davis in the war with Mexico, and subsequently connected with the Lopez expedition against Cuba, fought with WilUam H. Scott at the San Francisco racecourse the 3d of August, with pis- tols at eight paces. Smith was only twtnty-four years of age. He was killed at the second fire. CJiarles Somers and Thomas D. P. Lewis fought with derringers at ten paces at San Francisco the 1 Itli of February, 1853. Somers received a shot in the left arm. Alfred Crane, physician from Louisiana, in 1853 challenged Edward Toby, clerk of San Francisco as- sistant aldermen. They fouglit with navy pistols at fifteen paces. At the second fire Crane was shot through the abdomen, and died next morning after a night of agony. Kust, editor of the Expresi^, and Stidger, editor of the Herald, dropped their })ens one day and S( izetl their pistols. The latter was slightly wounded cor- poreally, but honor was healed. During the year 1854, there appeared to be a mania for duels. Editors fought. Lawyers, judges, shoul- der-strikers, doctors, loafers fought. The legislature of this year was called the fighting legislature, and if a week or two passed without the notice of a lu)stile meeting in the public journals, men looked at each other as if something were wrong. J. P. Rutland, clerk in the state treasurer's office, ill 'IH'' 111! I 7S8 ruErj,ixG. taking offence at some remark of P. W. Thomas of Auburn, sent him a challenge by James P. Dickson, lu^spital physician at San Francisco. Thomas refus- iiig to fight with Rutland, on the ground that he was no gentleman, was then challenged by Dickson, and on the next day, March 10th, the parties met at Oak Grove. Thomas' second was Hamilton Bowie, and tlie second of Dickson was the Honorable Judge Ed- ward McGowan. Weapons, duelling pistols, distance, thirteen paces, Dickson, who had the choice of ground and the word, received Thomas' first fire just under the ann, and the ball passed through his body. Thomas fired first, otherwise it was thought that he, too, must have been hit, as Dickson's ball struck the ground directly at his feet. Dickson died next day, his death causing great excitement, as he was a young man of promise. Rutland felt grieved that Dickson should have died in his place, and threatened to shoot Thomas on sight unless he fought him, too. The 10th of April a duel came off at the Pioneer racecourse between H. Chaviteaux and M. Richards. The second of the former was Conite de Raoussel- Boulbon ; forthe latter E. Cavallier officiated. French duelling-pistols were the wea[»ons, and the distance of twenty-five paces made matters quite safe. Three shots were exchanged, when the fiery French gentle- men came to their serifi-es. No harm was done. Agreement upon details in a pr<)i;K)sed duel: The weapons to be duellhig pistols, distance 10 paces. Place of meeting, back of the racecourse near the mission. To fire between the word^re and three. To toss for choice of weapons. Then tor the pistols. Then for the word. Then for choice of position on ground. Any infringement of rules by either of the principals "will be mett by certain death." Lewis Teal, Edw'p MoGowan. The 10th of May an affair of honor came off near the presidio between James Hawkins, of Tuolumne, ALL ABOUT A CHAIR. 7r>9 and Christopher Dowdigan of San Francisco. Tlie second of the former was Philip T. Herbert, subse- quently member of congress from Califoniia, and of the latter William Mulligan, shoulder-striker and politician. Weapons, rifles ; distance, forty yards, liesult, D>)wdigan shot in the left arm. On the night <if May 17th, N. Hubert, ex-member of the assembly, and George T. Hunt, a San Francisco attorney, had a personal difficulty in the JNtetropolitan theatre. It was all about a chair. Hunt's fo<'t were resting on it, and Hubert wished to occupy it. Words passed, and then blows. Next day tlie case caino be- fore the recorder. Both were fined fifty dollars, though Hunt was declared the chief offender. The following Saturday Hunt challenged Hubert to mecit him at tlie Pioneer racecourse, and next morning at half- past five they were on the ground. Hunt's sec- onds were Knox and Fox, while Hubert was attended by Charlo" S. Fairfax, ex-speaker of the assembly. Weapons, duelling pistols; distance, ten paces. At the third shot Hunt fell, with the bullet in his abdo- men, and immediately calling Hubert to him forgave everything. He died that evening. Hubert was greatly affected as lie left the grounds. An editorial appeared in the Alfa of May 2 2d, called out by the killing of Hunt by Hubert. The same day Hubert was arrested. Tlie next day two men, Thomas L. Benson, native of London, and Richard Menzies, hav- ing a difficulty over some business matter, met in the outskirts with seconds and a surgeon. Weapons, ^olt's revolvers, distance, fifteen paces. The combat- ants would have compromised through the interfer- ence of friends, but Benson's second objected, and hurried him on to the ground. The first round Ben- son's pistol hung fire. The second time he received his antagonist's ball in the breast, and died next day. The coroner's jury recommended the grand jury to punish the offenders. David E. Hacker and J. S. London fought in Gal- I ' !i ,1 i 760 DUELLING. ifornia in 1854. Politics was the trouble; London was killed. T. W. Park and M. C. Brazer, both members of the fighting legislature, escaped an en- counter unharmed. Washington wounded Washburn badly; both were editors; there were good writers and Qjood fitjchters in California about this time. This time a woman was at the bottom of it, and tlie combatants were Frenclimen, Ellseler and Dubert by name. The compact was that they should fight with broadswords until one or both were dead or disabled. Both were skilled in the use of the weapon ; and as desirable, French-speaking women were not plentiful in California in those days, the battle promised blood. Eight minutes of scientific gyrations resulted in a severe cut in Ellseler's sword-arm. It was now pro- posed to terminate the affair ; but how sliould they divide the wimian between them ? Fight it out when the wound was healed? No; women were tot) un- certain. So at it they went again, hotter tlian ever, and in twenty minutes more Ellseler's sword was sheathed in Dubert's body. This was the Gth of June ; Dubert died next morninij. The 22d of September Rasey Biven of Stockton, and H. P. Dorsey of Los Angeles, met near Oakland. The seconds of Dorsey were Governor ]\IcDougal and Mr Watson. Surgeon, C. M. Hitchcock, Seconds of Biven, Senator Crabb and Mr Bandol[)h. Surgeon, Briarly. Weapons, duelling pistols. Distance, ten paces. Word was given by Biven's friends. At the first fire Dorsev was wounded in the abdomen and Biven in the wrist. The duellistic event of this year, 1854, was the planting in the heart of Devereaux J. Woodlief, a ball by Achilles Kewen, on a wheel and fire, with rifles at forty paces. It was a splendid shot, one of which Achilles might well be proud. It is something to tell one's children ; right through the heart and at forty paces, wheel and fire. My dear children, I hope you will all learn to shoot — to wheel and shoot right RYER AND LANGDON. m through the heart. A misunderstanding concorning a politiral matter was the cause of the trouble. Eiuly in 185G, a committee of the legislature in- vestigated the management of the State Insane Asy- lum under Dr K. K. Keid, whose place had been made vacant by Governor Johnson, in order that it might be filled by Dr Samuel Langdon, a gentleman from North Carolina. Dr Washington M. llyer, a native of New York, and an experienced and skilful surgeon and physician, testified regarding the compara- tive care of the insane patients under Dr Keid and his success( )r, Dr Langdon. His testimony was decidedly favorable to the former,and anything butcomplimcntary to the latter. This was an indignity ui)on Langdon, so his southern friends were pleased to construe it, and a plan was devised to get rid of Dr Ilyer. One night, about three weeks after the investigation, liver was struck from behind, on the arm, by a ])istol. Ho turned about, and saw Dr Langdon and Dr Hunter, each with a pistol in hand ; he was himself unarmed. " Which of you gentlemen desires to insult me ? " he asked. Hunter replied, " Dr Langd(ni." Hyer calmly said: "Dr Langdon, to-morrow I will hunt you." But Lanixdon's business took him out of town for scv- eral days, and Ryer was not able to find him. Samuel A. Booker, Esq., a Virginia gentleman, advised liyer not to follow Langdon up; that he would be taken at a disadvantage, and allowed no show for his life, and counselled him to settle the matter by the code. A challenge was duly sent and accepted. The weap- ons selected Vjy the challenged party, who was familiar with all the devices of the art duello, were a brace of pistols owned by Dr Aylett.*" When asked by Colonel O'Neill, Langdon's principal second, to choose one of them, Mr Booker, Ryer's principal second, chose one and discreetly kept it until the meeting *If these pistols were subsequently used in a celebrated <lucl in California, this may account somewhat for tlie result to one of the principals, wlio was not auj'ait in their use. DUELLIXC. oocurretl. It was a most treacherous weapon, with- out some fainiUarity witli which Ryer might well have sacrificed himself. The hair-trigger of this pistol had been made so sensitive that the mere motion to ele- vate the nmzzle would discharge it in tlie hand of one not knowhi^ tlie weapon. February 24, 1857, the fight having been twice before hindered, the parties confronted each other on Rough and Ready island, four miles from Stockton. Tlie choice of position fell to Langdon's lot, and he stood with his back to the west. Ryer, opposite, received the rays of the setting sun full in his face. To the proposition whether an a})()logy, if offered, would be acceptable, Ryer firmly said " No. No apology could atone for a blow." Neither wns hurt by the first fire. Overtures for a reconciliation were again di'clined, and the second fire took place; no blood. At the third shot, Langdon fell, severely wounded below the ligament of the knee-cap. Colonel O'Neill, his second, then came forward and asked if the challenging party was satisfied. "Yes," said Ryer, "he has fallen." The wounded man escaped with his life, but was a cripple until he died in 1880. Dr Ryer had the largest prac- tice in California; he had served as a regular surgeon in the United States army through the Mexican war. His friends claim, and not without reason, that there was absolutely no alternative for him but to fight, and that his living, his life, perhaps, depended upon his taking advantage of the code itself. Ferguson, state senator from Sacramento, told a story in which a young woman acquaintance of G. P. Johnson's figured, in a way which Johnson did not like ; so he called Ferguson over to Angel Island, on the 21st of August, 1858, and killed hhn. So horrible was the offence of taking in vain the name of a young woman happening to know G P. John- son, that death alone was sufficient atonement ; hence the terms of the murderous compact were pistols, ten paces, and advance. The fourth shot brought the FERGUSON AND JOHNSON. 7«i combatants within six steps of each other; at wliich distance one would think a school boy in an iij^uo tit, who had never seen a pistol, could kill the dasiardly villain who made faces at his sister, (jeovge Pen Johnson could hit Ferojuson at that distance at all events ; he could shatter at six paces the thigh bone of him who in a dramshop dared speak in other than courtly phrases of a damsel fortunate enough to be under the chivalrous protection of a Johnson ; could with a bullet at six steps inflict a torturous wound upon this fhppant-tongued honorable, whidi should cause him twenty-four days of acutcst suffering and finally death under amputation. Ferguson could well enougli be spared, and if he had taken Johnson with him California would not have been the loser. Among those who call themselves gentlemen, who pretend to that honesty and culture which give manners to so- ciety, such scenes are by no means attractive — less so, indeed, than those of the mad miners en- camped along the gold belt, v/ho shot and slashed each other in their bacchanals and cared neither fi)r (:rod nor man. Law now steps in to give the final touch to tliis ghastly farce. Surrendering to the authorities of Marin county, Johnson was tried, and acquitted, on the ground that Ferguson did not die from tiie ef- fects of the shot, but because he would not submit to earlier amputation 1 Most worshipped law ; incor- ruptible, direct, void of hypocrisy and guile, let all good villains bow at the mention of thy name 1 The most notable of Californian duels was that fought b}' David S. Terry, associate justice of the su- preme court ; and David C. Broderick, United States senator from California. Both of these men were actively opposed to the vigilance connnittee ; both made politics a profession, both were high in official position, derived their influence and support imme- diately from the government, and held themselves up as lights of the law shining upon the obscured intel- lects of mechanical and mercantile plodders. Now, 764 DUELLING. at this time in California the law against duollhig; was plain enough, and stringent enough, but chivalrous lawmakers paid no further attention to it than to euii)loy it as a scapegoat in their unlawful murders. Duellists were disqualified by law from holding office; tlie majority of duellists were (»ftice-holders ; office- holders fought duels and yet retained oflfice. Whence it appears, following their example, tliat the highest crime recognized by law may be perpetrated with im- punity by the highest officers of the law, while the most righteous acts of citizens, if done outside of the prescribed forms of law, cannot be too severely de- nounced and punished. No duellist has ever suffered the punishment prescribed by law in California. Midsummer 1859 saw Terry a defeated candidate before the democratic convention for renomination to the supreme bench. Broderick was a rough man, and a violent politician of New York hybrid republi- can proclivities, madly determined his head should be higher set, either in the affairs of state or else upon a stake ; and it was to him and his party that Terry owed his defeat. In a speech at Sacramento, deliv- ered before the convention held in Benton's church the 24th of June, while professing resignation yet smarting under defeat, Terry said, "Who have we opposed to us ? A party based on no principle, ex- cept the abusing of one section of the country and the aggrandizement of another; a party which has no existence in fifteen states of the confederacy, a party whose principles never can prevail among free nn n who love justice and are willing to do justice. What other? A miserable remnant of a faction sailing under false colors, trying to obtain votes under false pretences. They have no distinction the}'^ are en- titled to ; they are followers of one man, the personal chattels of a single individual, whom they are ashamed of. They belong heart and soul, body and breeches, to David C. Broderick. They are yet ashamed to acknowledge their master, and are calling themselves, BRODERICK-TERUY AFFAIR. 7C5 forsooth, Douglas democrats, when it is known, well known to thoni and to us, that the gallant senator from Illinois, whose voice lias always been lieard in the advocacy of democratic princijdes, who now is not disunited from the democratic party, has no atKliation with them, no feeling in common with them. l*er- liaps I am mistaken in their right to claim Douglas as their leader. Perhaps they do sail under the flng of Douglas, but it is the banner of the black Doug- las, whose name is Frederick, not Stephen." These and other remarks of like nature were printed in the Sacramento papers, and copied generally throughout the state. Broderick read them next morning while at breakfast at the International Hotel, and very naturally broke out in a fit of violent personalities against Tcrrj'. It hajjpened that D. W. Perley, friend and former law partner of Terry, was seated at the table near Broderick, and heard what he said. Perley claimed that Broderick's re- marks were directed to him ; at all events he replied to them, and Broderick retorted. Women being present at t^.e table, Perley withdrew, and soon after sent Brciderick a challenge. Under date of Juno 20th, Broderick wrote in reply to Perley that the publicity of the affair, if for no other cause, prohibited a hostile meeting. Other reasons, however, did exist which placed it beyond the power of Broderick to give the satisfaction demanded. Within the past few days Perley had made oath that he was a subject of Groat Britain, and at the time of the alleged insult and in the presence of gentlemen the writer had said that he could not accept a chal- lenge from one who had no political rights to be affected by Indulgence in the practise of the code. " For many years," continued Broderick, "and up to the time of my elevation to the position I now occupy, it was well known that I would not have avoided any issue of the character proposed. If compelled to accept a challenge; it could only be m DUELUNO. from a gcntloman lioUliuj^ a position equally clovatoa aiui rospoiisibie, and there are no circumstances wliicli coukl induce me even to do thus during the pcndi-ncy of the present canvass. Wlien I authorized tiie an- nouncement that I would ad<lres8 the people of Cali- fornia durin_!4 the campaign, it was suggested that efforts would be nuule to force me into dUHcuUies, and I tii'termined to take no notice of attacks from anv source during the canvass. If I were to accriit your challenge, there are probably many other gentle- men who would seek similar opportunities for hostile meetings, for the ])urpose of accomplishing a jxjlitiotl obj'ct, or to obtain public notoriety. I cannot atlbrd at the present time to descend to a violation of the constitution and the state laws to subserve either their (»r your purposes." Perlcy then in a card to the public pronounced Brodcrick's letter a tissue of evasive falsehoods, mean, quibl)rmg. dastardly, and that the writer was no Ic ss void of courage than of principle, and tluit thence- forth he had no right to the name of gentleman. Two months elapsed, when, election being over, and the term of the supreme judge near comjiletion, Terry descended from his bench and demanded by letter of Broderick an apology for the abusive words spoken by him in the presence of Perley at the bn ak- fast table of the International hotel. Broderick asked particular mention of the language used. Terry gavi; it as follows: "I have heretofore considered and S]»okcn of Judge Terry as the only honest man on the upreme court bench ; but I now take it all bark." Or \ those were not the exact words, said Tc rrv, thei ny words reflecting on his character as a gentle- man id a magistrate. To this Broderick replied that his words were occasi ned by offensive allusions to him made liy Terr\ at the Sacramento convention, and that as nearly as he recollected the language used at the In- ternational hotel was as follows; "During Judge THE MEETING. 707 Terry's inoarcoration l>y the vigilnnro comrnittpo, I paid ,f-J()() u wvvk to 8Up[K>rt a newspaper in liis ile- foiice. I iiavo also stated, liert't(>ru»'o, that I cnn- sidcred him the only li(most man on the Bupreme heiich, but I take it all hack." At a thiie when vitu- peration was the lan«jjua}j;o current in political cindcs Brodcrick was sonjuwhat surpined that w«)rds so mild should be selected as the pretext for a nu'cting and he could add in liis letter to Judge Terry : " You are the best judge as to whether the languan'c affords «j;o(«l grounds of offence." To this letter Broderii k received a reply from Terry demanding the usual satisfaction. Long before tliis the issue of the correspondence haii l)een determined, so that preliminaries were brief Brodorick held that before he could retiact the words spoken by him at the International, 'i'erry must retract the offensive language used by him at Sac- ramento.and nothing was further from Terry's purpose. The fermentations of political hate had n aciied the murderous stage, and one or tlie other of tlie leaders nmst die. "Evil doers are punished," says l*rota- goras "not in retaliation for past wrong, but to jne- V Mit future Mrong;" so these politicians looked before rather than behinil them. Just over the San Francisco boundarA^ in San Mateo county, on the morning of the 1 1 Ai of Sep- tember, the combatants met; but before their l)]()ody work began, Burke, chief of the San Francisco ])olice, appeared upon the ground armed with a wanant of arrest from each county. Arrived at the ]>()]ice court tlie charge was dismissed; and the two men were given their liberty on the ground that there had been no violation of the law. Two days later, at a quarter to seven o'clock, on the morning of the 13th of September, at Davis' rancho, about two miles south of the east end of Lake Merced, being another point in San Mateo county some twelve miles distant from San Francisco, they ri i 768 DUELLING. met again and with more fatal result. The morn- ing was fair, and the sun dropped gently its re- freshing warmth as if in one last attempt to soften the steeled hearts of these murderous men. So^ne sixty persons were present, and among them no in- terfering police. Coolness and indifference, either felt or assumed, was manifested by both principals, who stood apart conversing cheerfully with their attend- ants while preparations were in progress. The choice of weapons was won by Terry, and the choice of position and word by Broderick. Eight-Inch Belgium pistols, both set with hair trigger, were the weapons used, and the distance was ten paces. Lagrode, who loaded the pistols, testified before the coroner that B ' dcrick's was more delicate on the trigger than tlie one used by Terry. The word was to be the usual "Fire; one, two, three 1" The C(5mbatants were placed in position. Broderick seemed careless and awkward. "Terry was as cold as a marble statue," says the French journal Le Phare, "not a muscle of his body moved; his eyes were fixed on Broderick, and in his attitude was recognized the practised duellist. He mahitained his position as erect as an I, the arms straight along the body, the feet close together, and reducing his height as much as possible." According to the Alta's report, a second then stepped forward and called the word "Are you ready, gentle- men?" Fixing his eye keenly on his antagonist Terry promptly replied "I am ready." Broderick, grasping his weapon more firmly, likewise answered "ready;" meanwhile partly turning from his vertical position, exposing a fuller form as a mark for his ad- versary. Broderick's hat was drawn partly over his eyes and he seemed to be scanning a line on the ground between him and his antagonist. Terry, on the contrary, stood perfectly motionless, and eyed his enemy calmly. Then at the word "Fire; one, twol" Broderick partly raised his arm when his pistol dis- charged prematurely, and the ball entered the ground DEATH OF BRODERICK. 799 a few feet in advance of where Terrj stooa. Not more than two seconds after Terry, who had raised his weapon, deliberately covering with it the breast of his opponent, fired. The ball penetrated Broderick's right breast, causing him to fall before his seconds could reach him. "The shot is not mortal," exclaimed Terry. " I have struck two inches to the right.'* When he saw his proud enemy stretched upon the ground, he slowly retired with his friends. How these murderers can live, basking in the wrath of heaven, as Juvenal would say, is a mystery to those who feel within them conscience and humanity. For four days Broderick lingered, suffering, when not delirious, the greatest agony. "They have killed me because I was opposed to the extension of slavery, and a corrupt administration," he exclaimed in one of his conscious moments. On the morning of the I7th of September he died. The city was profoundly moved. Two thousand citizens, beside the Pioneers who buried it, followed the body to Lone Mountain cemetery, where a granite monument now marks its resting-place. Broderick seemed to find politics prof- itable, as he left an estate of some $400,000. He left a will at Washington, which was vigorously contested at San Francisco, one of his seconds playing a con- spicuous part in it, but was finally admitted to probate. Writing the day ot Broderick's death, the editor of the San Fr&ncim'o BuUetin says: " Whoever reads the corresponuence between Messis Broderick and Terry that preceded the late fatal duel, must be struck with the trifling nature of the original quarrel between the parties, and the absence of everything like an impera- tive caute for a hostile meeting. Judge Terry, in the heat of an extemporaneous speech, used language of a general nature calculated undoubtedly to excite anger in the breast of Mr Broderick. Yet that lan- guage, when analyzed, did not reflect upon Broderick's personal character or honor. It was injurious to his l>'>litical interests, being calculated to estrange hiii {'AL. Tnt. Poc. 49. 770 DUELLING. political adherents. Broderick, in reading Terry's speech, in a momentary fit of anger, as appears most abundantly from the facts, declares that he had for- merly believed that Terry was an honest judge, but that he took back his former opinion. This remark being reported to the judge, the latcer is induced to wait two months, until the election campaign was over, when he writes to the senator, and asks him to retract his intimation upon his honesty. " Taking the matter at this point, we say that the quarrel was not of such a deadly character as to make it absolutely necessary that a meeting should take place. Say that the seconds and advisers of both parties had been peaceably disposed, had been gov- erned by a strong desire to prevent the shedding of blood, and we hold that it would have been easy to have prevented a duel. Mr Broderick distinctly stated that his remarks at the International hotel were called out by Judge Terry's speech in Mr Ben- ton's church. Now, what prevented Judge Terry from saying that in that speech he did not intend to say anything personally dishonoring or offensive to the senator? After reading that speech, we think that such a disclaimer, while it would in all probability have led to an amicable settlement, would have 'been in consonance with the truth. Mr Broderick, after such a disclaimer, if proper counsels had prevailed, could with honor have withdrawn his passionate re- marks made at the International ; and what has ter- minated in a sad calamity might then have ended in an exchange of courtesies. But even if Terry had been obstinate, and refused to modify his first obnox- ious language, since that of itself was properly no cause of mortal quarrel, it would have been more magnani- mous and honorable in Broderick to soften the bad spirit of his own remarks so as to have taken away even the pretext of a duel. Where there is a will there is a way. The honor of Mr Broderick, we think, could have been preserved in the eyes of all CENSURE OP SECONDS. rti honorable men if only his friends had taken the kind- est and best course for their principal. " But unfortunately, opposite counsels on all sides prevailed. Both principals seemed to have been sur- rounded by a set of bloody-minded hotspurs, who were disposed to urge on the meeting to a fatal issue rather than allow on either side the minutest waiving of punctilio. Though Terry's original speech was given doubtless with no thought of provoking Broderick to a duel, and Broderick's rejoinder was made in hot blood at the instant of receiving a strong provocation, neither was allowed to state the truth, to bring about a reconciliation, but were hurried to the field, with deadly weapons in their hands, to shed blood without justification or reasonable cause. We hold that the seconds of these duellists are strongly to blame. They should have prevented a meeting on such trifling grounds. Failing to do so, they must be considered as accessories before the fact to a cruel homicide, and the law should vigorously be enforced by the proper authorities to bring them to justice. " But we go further than this, and maintain that the seconds are the true instigators and promoters of all duels. The principals in their hands are men of wax, and can be moulded as they will. If people of good standing in society will refuse to throw the mantle of their position over the angry, deadly pas- sions of would-be duellists, the practice itself of duel- ling would soon expire. The seconds think that, without any bodily danger to themselves, they have the reflected honor of their principal's bravery and contempt of death; then let them also have their re- flected punishment. Let that be made as exemplary as the punishment of the surviving principal and we may soon hear less of duelling. The seconds or friends of Mr Broderick were Joseph McKibbin, ex- member of congress, and David D. Colton, ex-sherifl* of Siski- you county. Those of Judge Terry were Thomas Hayes, ex-county clerk of San Francisco, and Calhoun 772 DUELLING. Benham, a lawyer in this city. All the&e men deserve the penitentiary equally with Judge Terry." And now, after this cold-blooded exhibition of in- humanity and wanton insult of the law, comes the prostitution of the law, for the shielding of its august offender. Throughout life Terry's actions, if they speak at all, imply simply this : laws are made for the masses, who must be taught to respect them, to re- gard it as impious to break, or even so much as vio- lently to touch them. We who make and construe the law, while outwardly showing it the greatest def- erence for ourselves and our ermine's sake, may in- dulge in a little license ; at all events we will so indulge and break it when we please. Knowing thoroughly its temper, pliability and capability, should we find ourselves at any time unfortunately without the pale of it, we will bend it to our purpose. Teach the peo- ple to bow before law as before any superstition, and we, the ministers of the law, may gratify our lawless passions as we please. Seeing the destruction he had wrought upon his adversary, Terry retired to his farm twenty-five miles from Stockton. Before the duel he had given his resignation of office to a friend to be handed to the governor in case the affair came off. On the 17th of September Terry was arrested by policemen Lees and Ellis, on a warrant sworn out by P. W. Shephard, and issued by M. P. Blake, county judge. He was brought before the court and released on giving $10,000 bail. F. Truett, his defender before the vigilance committee, was one of his bondsmen. The case was several times postponed and shifted from one court to another, until after nine months of dexterous manipulation it was sent by Hager of the district court to Marin county. "Few of our readers will be surprised at this result," says the Bulletinoi the 11th of June 1860. " To use a vulgar phrase, it was one of those things which had been cut and dried, and most people here- abouts were expecting it. The history of this prose- THE TRIAL FARCE. 773 cution is not calculated, however, to give people abroad a very high opinion of the impartiality of criminal proceedings in California. By a general law, Terry's case should have been tried by our court of sessions ; but Terry did not like our court of sessions ; and so, not being able to dispute the authority of that court to try him, he asks the legislature to pass a law tak- ing all such cases out of courts of sessions. This the legislature did ; in order to prevent a man charged with a crime from being tried before a court he does not like, courts of sessions all over the state are de- clared incompetent to try duellists. That was the first step. The case then came before Judge Hager of a district court. There Terry made a new demand : he asked now to select his own place of being tried, and his own judge. All this has been granted. The case is sent to Marin ; and J. H. Hardy, it is plain to see, will be the judge. How the trial will terminate is not hard to divine. A Marin jury acquitted the duellist, Johnson, who also killed his man ; and it would be strange if they do less for Terry." Plate sin with gold And the strong Ittnce of justice hurtless breaks ; Clothe it in rags, a pigmy's straw doth pierce it. Hardy, a personal friend of Terrj^'s, and a most chivalrous and fire-eating judge of the law-and-order stamp, came down from Mokelunnie Hill for the ex- press purpose of presiding temporarily at tlie seventh district court held at Marin county, in order to free his friend. Wliat liad these men to fear from the law when they could so play upon it that it would sing any tune that best pleased them ? And now liear the conclusion of the whole matter. The day is fixed for trial, the hour has arrived; the witnesses from San Francisco who should have been present are becalmed upon the bay ; the court waits, and drinks, and smokes, and swears a little; then the prosecuting attorney moves a nolle prose/jui, and the trial of the Honorable David S. Terry, late judge of the supreme court of California, 774 DUELLING. for the killing of the Honorable David C. Broderick^ late United States senator from California, ends be- fore it begins. A record of Hardy's acts while on the bench, and at other times, would tend in no wise to raise the character of these proceedings in the eyes of good men. I give but one incident among many: While judge of the sixteenth judicial district in March 1861, he was iiidicted by the grand jury of San Francisco for mur Jer, as being accessory before the fact to the killing of Samuel T. r^ewell. It was said that Horace Smith, brother-in-law of Hardy, visited the city the New Year's day previous, for the purpose of killing • Newoil. This adds but another case of ruffian justice to the long list which disgraces the record of the ad- herents of law-and-order. Were I permitted but one word, one argument in favor of vigilance, I would point to such men as these. Behold them on the bench, behold tham as politicians, as lawyers, as members of the commonwealth ; be- hold their blood-stained hands, their ever-ready and bloody weapons, behold them in public and in private, at home and abroad, insulting the law and constitu- tion, which so used to impress their sense of duty in vigilance times 1 behold them anyhow or anywhere, and they bespeak in stronger words than mine the necessity of vigilance committees in all places where such characters abound. As I love such men, so hate I law, justice, and morality. Among the merry men of Shasta in 1859 d> sham duel was arranged between Grove K. Godfrey, superintendent of common schools, and William B. Stoddart, trustee, the latter alone of the two princi- pals being privy to it. The meeting was to take place at French gulch, the weapons, derringers, and the distance ten paces. The pistols \v are loaded with bul- lets of cork covered with tin foil, in the presence of the assemblage which consisted of about sixty per- GATEWOOD AND GOODWIN. 775 sons, including most of the notables of the district. The challenger, Stoddard, failed to appear and his second, Levi, took his place. It was arranged that Levi should fall, but Godfrey's pistol failing to dis- charge, the joke soon leaked out, and so enraged was the dupe, that Levi narrowly escaped with his life. It was " conducted upon the most humane and hon- orable terms known to the code," they said, when on the 16th of September 1859, William J. Gatewood shot P. Goodwin in the abdomen with a rifle at forty yards, so that he died in excruciating agony within three hours. The killing was done in a very gentle- manly manner. Gatewood was a lawyer, and Good- win a doctor. " Doctor I am very sorry that this affair has term- inated so ; very sorry indeed," said Gatewood. " I am glad to know that you acted like a gentle- man," replied Goodwin. It was beautifully done ; and so sentimental like I One would think the lawyer would almost rather have been shot himself, and that the doctor found it sweet to die at the hand of so gentlemanly a slayer. The people of San Andreas where the two men lived were likewise sorry ; they were both good fellows and had their friends. They did not approve of an incen- sate fashion based upon feudallstic superstition and brute force, but, said they, " when the supreme judge of the state lays aside the ermine to fight a duel; when a United States' senator does not think it so terrible to face the shot of an experienced marksman at ten paces, as to look public opinion in the eye and incur its scorn by refusing to accept a challenge; when society and the people lavish their favors and caresses upon those who have fought duels, and honor the successful slayer — we see no recognized crime or violence to the commonwealth in the act." Goodwin spoke sharp words to Gatewood ; Gatewood struck Goodwin ; Goodwin challenged and Gatewood killed. Glory to Gatewood I Poor Goodwin ! Gatewood IS 776 DUELLING. sorry to kill him, but he should not have spoken hastily. There were principals, seconds, surgeons, friends, and gapers to the measure of five carriages, which conveyed them before six o'clock in the morning from San Andreas to a flat near Torman's. Here the high slaughterers descended from their vehicles and took their positions. At the word both sprang their rifle locks, but Goodwin's gun hung fire and Gatewood's ball sped upon its death mission. Evidently Gate- wood contemplated blood in some quarter, for he brought to the field a vehicle suitable for the easy carriage of a dying man, and this he magnanimously left to the one he had made to feel the need of it. Duels this year were quite the thing, particularly among jurists. Only three days after the aflair at San Andreas the town of Sonora sent forth its shrill crow over a first-class fight. Sylvester Knight and J. E. Easterbrook were the combatants ; Knight fell at the first fire. Daniel Showalter, of Mariposa, thirty -two years of age, speaker pro tempore of the assembly, and Charles W. Piercy, aged twenty -four, member from San Ber- nardino, two light-headed boys lately from declaiming school, fought eight miles from San Rafael, at four o'clock. May 25th, 1861, with rifles at forty paces. Upon our legislative floor hourly in accordance with their well-paid duty stood these two wise and most honorable young gentlemen making laws for sufiering humanity, when one day upon a certain question Showalter asks leave to explain his vote. Piercy ob- jects. Showalter has nothing but contempt for any gentleman who objects. Piercy challenges and Sho- walter kills him at the second fire. Had the aflair happened thirty years later, possibly Showalter's shot might have dissipated more common-sense. " The logic of the Enterprise editor is like the love of God." These mysterious words appeared in the editorial of a certain issue of the Virgmia Union dur- his FIERY EDITOK.S. 777 ing the autumn of 1863, of which Thomas Fitch wa8 editor ; and he of whom they were written was I. T. Goodman, editor of the Territorial Enterprise. Good- man's aticle which called out the mystic rejoinder was more slashing than sound ; and when the writer first read the criticism he thought that Fitch, with a forgiving spirit, intended it as a compliment. Tlie love of God was surely good, and so must be likewise his logic. But the reporters, literary bummers, and wise men of Virginia city began to question among themselves what deep or dire significance lay wrapped in the words. Whose were they and what was their con- nection ? Mark Twain thought the words were from Byron. Dan de Quille was sure he had seen them in Baxter's Saints' Rest. The astute Goodman himself claimed them for Shakespeare. But finally a thin- haired rosy-vlsaged occupant of the bench beside the entrance to the Fashion saloon, who had once been whipped for running away from Sunday school, sug- gested the bible. After due search a copy of the book was found, and the passage brought to light, with its continuation — "in that it surpasseth human understanding." The astute Goodman's eyes were opened, and he immediately set about to mend his logic by sending Fitch a challenge to mortal combat. The editors of Virginia were at that time, as a rule, pugilistic in their proclivities ; what they lacked in logic they made up for in pistolings; hence most of them were already under bonds to keep the peace, and new indulgence must be sought beyond the limits of the territory. So the valley called Dry, over the Californian boundary, was chosen for the further in- terpretation of this scripture passage. Sophistical as Goodman was with the pen, he was no less illog- ical with the pistol. Ferrend, his second, recommended a few lessons, and two days before the appointed time the two went over into the valley to practise. A pine burr placed midway between Goodman and a 778 DUELLING. large tree served as a target. The instructions were " Fire low and raise your pistol in a line with the burr." The instructor gave the word, and the pupil fired. Both burr and tree remained untouched. Before the two days had expired, however, much am- munition had been spent, and many burrs shattered. The morning of the meeting broke cold and crisp. A large fire had been built of dry pine limbs, at which the injured Goodman was warming hiijiself There lie stood awaiting his enemy, half in hope and half in fear, as Hector waited the appearance of Achilles before the walls of Troy. Presently Fitch, attended by his friends, drew near. The combatants were soon placed in position and the word given to fire. Simul- taneously the shots rang through the valley, the astute Goodman stood erect, but Fitch dropped his pistol, grasped his knee, and turning half round fell to the ground. Then all went back to their re- spective avocations, happy in the consciousness of a duty well performed, of a great principle vindicated, and of an intricate question solved. Meanwhile the astute Goodman thought to mend his logic, while Fitch thought only of his knee. Billy Mulligan and Tom Coleman having quarreled, proceeded according to the custom of such gentlemen to settle the difficulty by an informal shooting. Meet- ing one day in April 1864 at Austin, Nevada, Cole- man drew ; but Mulligan from long association with the law and order party, with governors, congress- men, legislators, and judges for his friends, was becom- ing somewhat fastidious in his tastes, and proposed the matter should be conducted on the latest and most approved method. Coleman agreed. Next day they met and fought with revolvers at ten paces. After exchanging six shots, in which Coleman was twice wounded, once in the finger and once in the leg, the distinguished gentlemen retired from the field. At Laguna Honda near San Francisco in June 1865, VERY POOR SHOOTINi;. 779 a mock duel came ofl' between a tailor and a barber, the latter only being cognizant of the joke. The de- tails are ttx) childish for record. At Music hall in Virginia, Nevada, on the 9th of March, 1805, a difficulty arose between Boss Fouke and Charles Safford, well known in the sporting circles of that vicinity. Fouke drew a weapon. Safford said he was not anned ; and besides, that was no way for gentlemen to fight. If Fouke would name a time and place, Safford would meet and remain witli him as long as he should desire his comimny. Fouke ac- quiesced ; and the next morning an agreement was drawn up in writing, and signed by both, to meet that day at five o'clock at Long valley, and with navy six-shooters, at ten paces, to fire at the word, and then to advance at pleasure, and to continue firing until all the chambers should be discharged if one of them was not disabled in the meantime. Accordingly they met, about 150 persons being present. Each had two seconds ; Fiimegan and Louis La Page act- ing for Safford, and Dr Colombo and Jack McNabb for Fouke. The combatants were stationed, the weapons placed in their hands, and the word given. Fouke was struck at the first fire; but swerving to the right with his head bent downward he continued to shoot. Safford advanced two paces in a direct line keeping up the fire. Every shot on both sides was expended but there was no hit after the first fire, which sent a ball through the fleshy part of Fouke's breast making a bloody but not dangerous wound. The men became reconciled, then each desired that the other might live, and shaking hands they returned to their homes. Two friends, a book-keeper and a lawyer, living in Virginia, Nevada, in 1865, fell in love with the same female and quarrelled. The woman favored the book-keeper. At a party the two men came to blows and pistol shots. Next day the lawyer challenged the book-keeper to fight, but the latter declined. Toward evening the two men met on the street. The ii 780 DUJaj.lNO. lawyer drawing at once a whip and a revolver struck the book-keeper and exclaimed, ** You won't tight, eh 1 Then take that I and thatl" accompanying the first exclamation with a blow of the whip on the head, and the next with a pistol-shot which took effect in the side. The book-keeper staggered back for a moment, then drawing a pistol both fired simultane- ously, the ball from the book-keeper's pistol entering the lawyer's brain. The book-keeper married the girl. This is a very common-place story ; but its frame- work will answer for a hundred others. Charles Anderson and a Mr Lewis, in January 1866, at Sinker creek, ten miles below the Ainsworth mill, in Owyhee county, Idaho, quarrelled about some hay, and fought with knives. Both were killed ; one died immediately, and the other shortly afterward. The TerrUorial Enterprise of the 31st of March, 1857, thus takes off a fight which occurred at Dayton between B. F. Leetingham and A. L. Buck, the combat being the ultimate appeal in the settlement of a dispute concerning a piece of sluicing-ground. " The dispute between the parties was about a piece of sluicing ground, but no matter about that. The fight began about six o'clock in the morning, when Leetingham came into the ring smiling, and knocked a chip off Buck's shoulder. Buck in return gave Leetingham a look which cut him to the soul. First blood for Buck I The bottle-holders advanced, and sponged their mouths and nostrils. Time being called, the principals resumed their places. Till half-past eight o'clocP.: the parties stood face to face, neither moving a muscle. Then it was thought by some of Buck's baclii^i's that Leetingham was observed to wink, and they called upon the referees to decide the dispute. On looking for the referees they were no- where to be seen. A committee started toward the town to find them, as some one said they had gone off in that direction nearly an hour before to get, as was supposed, a supply of blue-ruin whisky. About half 8Pi<X3IMEN OK NEVADA HUMOR. 781 way between the ring and the town they were found, sitting flat on the ground with a gallon measure of whisky between them, and each a clay pipe in his mouth. One was backing Buck and the other Leet- ingham. Both were naked as the day they were born, having bet all their valuables, then their hats, and one article of clothing after another, piling them up in a heap, till nothing was left but their pipes, which they were in the act of betting when found. As they were too drunk to stand, they were not disturbed. Meantime the fight was growing more furious. It had been asserted that Buck wmked at about the same time that Leetingham had done so, and the sec- onds were about to call it a draw and advance and sponge them off when Buck made a mouth at Leet- ingham. Leetingham could no longer bo restrained, and established rules had no meaning for hhu. He advanced a step toward Buck, and thrust his tongue out at him. The fight was now a regular rough and tumble. Leetingham continued to advance upon Buck, punishing him severely in the manner we have stated, till both were far out of the ring, the crowd following and cheering for Leetuigliam. This con- tinued to be the position of this brilliant and stub- bornly contested affair till half-past nuie o'clock, two to one being offered on Leetingham, with no takers. Leetingham now made an attempt to take a chew of tobacco, but in doing so made a bad mistake, as the moment his tongue was in his mouth. Buck seeing his chance, at once thrust forth hie own, and having thus turned the tables on his antagonist, caused him to retreat. In going backward, Leetingham fell into a shafb some 280 feet in depth. A windlass was pro- cured, and he was hoisted out. On reaching the sur- face he was still unconquered. Placing his thumb upon his nose, he made a charge upon Buck, twirling his fingers savagely. At noon, the fight being still in this position, the spectators all went to town to dinner. Returning about one o'clock, they searched 782 DUELLINO. till about four in the evening for the combatants, bets being high all this time on Leetingham, when they were at last found on a rocky point projecting over the surging waters of the Carson. Leetingham was crouched upon the farthest projecting point of a crag, begging pitifully for quarter, while Buck was seated complacently before him, triumphantly pulling down the lower lid of his left eye with his unsparing right forefinger," This very funny and instructive story was doubtless by Goodman. Ferrend — major, they used to call him, in recherche affairs every second must have a title if he has noth- ing else — Ferrend had many calls of this kind during the early days of Nevada. He was easily found, smelling blood from afar, and was always ready to assist at a funeral of this sort. One day in Wood and Wilson's saloon, Jack Hunter knocked Bill Pitcher down. Pitcher arose, found Ferrend, and challenged Hunter. The latter assented, and named dragoon six- shooters, next morning at sunrise, at the ravine below the Gould and Curry mill, all of which was satisfac- tory. But when Hunter specified that all the cham- bers of the revolvers should be loaded, and that after the word was given firing should continue, if possible, until the six shots were discharged. Ferrend regarded it murderous, which strikes one unlearned in the tech- nicalities of refined murder as the irony of duelling ; since why should they fight, if not to kill, and after one was killed, what did it matter how many extra bullet-holes were made in his carcass? Nevertheless, it was voted barbarous ; killing should be done gen- teelly, and with decorum. Placed in position, the word was given, and simultaneously the two weapons rang one report. "I think I can stand another shot," said Hunter, but before the seconds could reload he fainted, having been shot through the hips. Three days afterward he died. A duel was fought by two distinguished French gentlemen in the vicinity of Lone Mountain cemetery THE CODE IN PRISON. 783 in April 1869 with swords. Amidst circlings, and divers jumping-jack manoeuvrs, they pricked each other until the blood began to flow, when they con- cluded they did not like it, and went home. A duel was fought with Kentucky rifles, thirty paces, wheel and fire, at Los Angeles the 25th of March, 1870. The high contending principals were John B. Wilson, son of a senator, and Charles E. Beane, journalistic scribe ; cause, wine and politics, a common but unhealthy mixture. Taking with them a surgeon, which signified blood, the belligerents gat themselves beyond the city limits, and prepared each for the other's death. Wilson was the challenger. At the signal Wilson turned quickly and pulled, but the guu refused to fire, and Beane magnanimously withheld his shot. Re-loading Wilson's piece the order was again given and both fired. Beane was un- liarmed but Wilson dropped his gun, his honor satis- fied. A flesh wound was found in the left arm. Then followed a scene of sweet reconciliation, and the heroes departed to their homes. Confinement does not always wring all passion from the man, and the inmates of prisons deem their right to cut and kill each other in a gentlemanly way as good as that of prize-fighters, judges, and legislators. Feter Hanley and John O'Brien lived at San Quen- tin, lived there upon compulsion. One day, it was the 4th of June, 1877, as for their sins they were car- rying the hod, they indulged in an argument upon the moral character of a Barbary coast bar-keeper. Wax- ing warm in t'-eir dispute, and unable to injure each other with vords, they agreed to settle the discussion with knives, which they forthwith secured for that purpose from one of the shops. Retiring to a secluded spot behind one of the new buildings, they engaged in some really cutting arguments, until the alarm was given and they were separated. O'Brien was badly injured. Hanley was gashed somewhat about the face, but not so badly as to be unable to endure I 'If I 784 DUELLING. twenty-five lashes, which were administered upon the bare back. It is a pity that judges, senators, editors, and others of that stripe, could not have had some of the same medicine administered to them. Two old and respected inhabitants of Mariposa county, old enough to know better, and respected enough to do better, met informally and fought with shotguns in September 1877. David Evans living six miles from Homitos was one, and Moses v. Northrup the other. Seven or eight years before Evans' bam was burned, and he said that Northrup did it ; said so gently at first and then more positively, and kept saying so for seven years, until the latter became tired of hearing it. So one day he called up- on his enemy with a shotgun and told Evans to brjag out his and meet him on equal terms. Evans sxm appeared with his gun and asked, " Are you read - ? ' " Ready," said Northrup, and the two men fireu almost shnultaneously. Evans was killed, while Northrup remained unharmed. Thus the God of battles adjudged Northrup innocent of having fire<l Evans' barn. A plain, practical, common-senso solution of a question which never otherwise might have been solved. CHAPTER XXV. TALES OP THE TIMES. How indestmctively the Good grows, and propagates itself, even among the weedy entanglements of Evil. — Sartor Resartus. « Op tales of the times I have enough at hand to fill volumes. I can only give brief specimens. No- where in the world's business did fortune ever turn her wheel more tauntingly ; dealing right and left sudden and unfamiliar changes, her ways being out- side of ordinary experiences, so that the shrewdest heads were little better than those supporting ass-ears for interpreting the future. A hundred instances might be cited ; in fact every man of those days was the hero of an unwritten romance. Bootblack and banker alike might give each his remarkable histor}', only the former would perhaps far exceed the latter in incident and vivid interest. What a thousand and one tales they would have made, could some seer have reid and repeated them, the Ufe's doings and changes o^ all those varied characters in the gulches and in the towns ; clerks, cooks, merchants, mechanics, gam- biers, preachers, doctors, and the rest I With the great emigration to Oregon in 1846 came Simeon Pettigrove, distantly related, I cannot now exactly say how, to that Pettigrove who once owmd the ground that Portland stands on, and who should have been one of the richest and most influential men of that rich and hospitable city, instead of chinking glasses during his latter days with Van Bokkelen and Sv/an in the hotel at Port Townsend. Cal. Int. Poc. 60 (78B> ;86 TALES OF THE TIMES. Of the same wagon-train with young Pettigrove in crossing the continent was Mary Wilder, a brawny maid of eighteen, who walked beside her father's oxen with a long whip, having a sharp gad at the thick end to prod them on through the powdered alkaline plains, and all the long way of that wearisome journey, tak- ing entire charge of the team while her father helped a neighbor with his live stock. Pleasing was she to lot)k upon, although her face was saffroned by the sun and dust, and her clothes bcgreased and tattered, and her feet broad and bare, for her head and hair were beautiful, and when iii the vein the light and warmth of : countenance might kindle tlie campfire. Heart anci gs were stout, and her hands well formed — fcr yoking cattle; and woe betide the bullock that pulled too much to riglit or left, or pressed its neck too lightly against the yoke. All the Wilders' wealth was in that wagon, where sat the mother 'midst the younger children — all theirwealth except the daughter Mary, a precious property, who must make a good match, and help to raise the family respectability. Along by the willows, through the sagebrush, over the sandy desert, and over the rugged mountains, Simeon walked with her, talking with her much, and loving her more. He a. l;ed the father mi'dit he marry her. No. She had nothing; she must marry something, and Simeon had no more than s]:e. He went his way, and came again, and went and came as did the winter and the summer "How much must he have who marries Mary ? " 'At the least, a thousand dollars." Simeon was in dcsi)air. As wages then were in Oregon, he could not lay by that amount in five years. Tlie mines of California now began to be talked about, and an expedition was organized to go and dig for gold. Here was his op- portunity, and Pettygrove was among the first to join. And as he wound by the base oi Shasta butte down into the valley he took a solcnni oath never to return without the money which should buy Mary. MARY'S LOVER. 787 Oil Feather river he bcfjan to diix. How his heart beat, how his soul gloated over the first half ounce secured; how beautiful it was to gaze at, how sweet, how lovely, how pure 1 But not more pure or lovely or sweet or beautiful than Mary, who was awaiting him away back in Oregon. As his pile increased, his darling yellow pile which was to secure the loved ob- ject, he could not contain himself for joy. His com- rades soon learned his heart's ambition, and once the ice was broken he was forever talking of it. Soon it was the standing joke of the camp. " Pet, how's your gal ?" the boys used to ask when they wished to know of the A-\'^'s success. " It's all right, boys. I'll get her, sure,'" was the customary reply. When fifty ounces were safely bagged — "She's mine, boys, slic's mine," he used to say, or rather, sing; for his heart was singing, and the voice would echo it whether he would or no. A hundred ounces, "Well, boys, I've got what I came for; I reckon I better go back and marry Mary now." Rather tamely this was said as compared with the late wild overflow of feeling. The fact is, his claim was paying well, and fascinated with gold-gath- ering, Simeon did not much like to leave it. Easily persuaded was he to remain and work a little longer. After this the yield began rapidly to increase, until Simeon had secured five thousand dollars. With store clothes he put on a thoughtful and subdued de- meanor, hired men to take his place in the ditcli, and was soon worth ten thousand dollars, then twenty thousand. Little was said these days regarding Mary Finally he was asked, "Pet, how about that Oregon gal?' Simeon hung his head a little as he said, " Well, the fact is, boys, her folks are mighty connnon, and couldn't give her nmch of a bringing up, and while she's good enough for a thousand dollars, I think I can afford a better one now." One may be moderately shrewd with comparative 788 TALES OF THE TIMES. safety, but to exhibit talents for circumvention and overreaching of too pronounced a character is dan- gerous. Early in the fifties there arrived at Rough and Ready one day a double-edged native of Cape Cod. The next morning he spent in watching and quizzing the miners who were at work. While thus engaged, he encountered the owner of a claim who had sunk a shaft between two very rich claims, and was now within a few inches of an expected strike. The owner of the shaft having business elsewhere wished to sell, and thought perhaps a better price might be obtained before uncovering the precious deposit than afterward. In any event he was willing to gamble on it a little. " Three thousand dollars was taken out o' that thar hole," said the shaft-sinker, "and nigh on to two thou- sand out o' this yer 'n, and there's no reason why mine ain't as good as them." Dinner time came round, and the diggers on the way to their cabins stopped to talk about it, and at length quite a crowd collected about the place. One offered $100 for the claim, another $200, another $250, but the owner peremptorily declined them all. Finrlly the man from Cape Cod opened his mouth, and in a shrill voice pitched at F sharp spoke. "Look a-here, stranger," said he, "you don't know me, and I don't know you, but if you believe what you say I'll make you an offer you can't refuse." " How is that ? " said the shaft-owner, while all eyes were directed toward the sharpened visage of the newly arrived. " Well, I'll work your hole for you on these condi- tions. If more than $200 are taken out, you shall have the whole of it; if less than $200 it shall all belong to me." The owner pondered a moment. "Surely," he thought, "there is more than $200 there. This fellow fresh from Cape Cod is a fool. Well, it will do him no harm to purchase of me a little experience at the bei A YANKEE TRICK. 789 price of three or four weeks' labor." Turning to the Yankee he said: "Let a friend of mine work with 5"ou, you giving him eight dollars a day should you take out less than $200, and put it all in writing and I'll do it." "All right, stranger," replied the Yankee, and in a few minutes the thing was done. The purchaser immediately went to work, and by noon next day had taken out $180. Then he paused; he considered ; he looked at his little pile, then quietly laying down his pick he went to the owner of the claim. " I guess I'll stop now," he remarked meekly. 'Stop," said the other, "why you've only just begun 1 " "I know," replied the Yankee, "but I think I had better knock off now, so there is your claim whenever you want it. I have paid your friend eight dollars for one day's work, for I always do as I agree and pay my debts, I don't ask any odds of anybody. My father is a deacon, and we all keep Saturday night. I was brought up never to tell a lie, nor to let any one get the start of me swapping jack-knives; stranger, there's your claim." In vain the shaft-owner insisted that the Yankee should work out the claim thoroughly, and finally brought suit to compel him to do so. The terms of the contract were plain, and it was decided tliat the Yankee had the right to stop working wheneve-r he pleased. It was a very fair return for the first day's work, but the deacon's son was obliged to continue his perigrinations, as the diggers of Rough and Ready felt hardly at home in company with a genius so superior to themselves. A reckless youth of twenty-two, named Prudon, whose home was in Louisiana, being put financially upon short allowance by his father for having lost money betting on Clay's election — a game the boy f^ TALES OF THE TIMES. did not understana, as the father said — set out for CaHfoniia overland and after trying his fortune unsuc- cessfully at Placerville, then Hangtown, he continued his journey and arrived at Sacramento in the midst of the cholera season of the autunm of 1850. The streets, swarming with teams loaded and loading, presented to one just from tlie lonely dusty plain a stirring scene, and the hotels, taverns, and gambling saloons were so much to his liking that he concluded to settle there. He had been educated by his fatlier for the presi- dency of the United States, and as he had understood that it was necessary to undergo certain routine before seatinjj: himself in the White House, he determined now to adopt the profession of politics, whereupon he ratified his determination by taking a drink. Selling tlie poor mule that had carried him from the Missis- sippi river, the proceeds of which constituted his entire capital, he chose a hotel on a par with his pretensions, and after a substantial luncheon he bethought him of letters from home, and started for the postofhce. The steamer had lately arrived, and at the window was a line of one hundred and fifty or two hundred men, at the foot of which he was obliged to take his place and wait his turn. It was a tedious process, standing and stepping at long intervals, as one after another was served. The sun poured down hot, and tlie young scapegrace, feverish and thirsty from his fatiguing journey, hailed a passing watermelon cart, and bought and ate, and bought another and another. Thus in due time he reached the window but found no letters. To console himself for the loss of so much time and the attending disappointment, he treated himself to a glass of brandy and water, and as it pleased him he took another. This caused him to feel so well that he concluded to take several more so that he might feel better ; in fact he would feel his best. Brandy iu doses sufficiently strong and frequent, WATERMELON AND BRANDY. Wi taken directly after watermelon, when the system is somewhat reduced by travel, and the still, incandcHcent air is epidemic with disease, often makes one feel like retiring; so our young Louisianian ought his bed, and soon was sleeping heavily. Strange to say, about three o'clock he awoke with violent pains and called for a physician. The doctor came and dosed him. He was comfortless; no more brandy and watermelon now. He kept up, though he knew the cholera had clutched him. It seemed to him the streets were full of hearses, and once he caught a driver closely eyeing him as if casting in his mind about how long it would be before his services would be required. Day after day he grew weaker, and finally was con- fined to his room. The landlord gave him up, and disliking him to die in his house lest it should frighten away his guests, he reconmiended him to the hospital. A long, low, adobe building at the fort, a little dis- tance out, was used for that purpose. Our young friend was not much pleased at the thought, but he was now so weak that he could not offer nmch oppo- sition. The hospital wagon was ordered round, and the sick man was carried out on a mattress. AnotluT invalid was called for and taken in, who was yet more ill ; at all events he groaned fearfully all the way out. The ride and the fresh air seemed to revive Prudon, and when he reached the hospital he was able to stand alone, and while they were carrying in his fellow-pas- senger, he seated hhnself in a chair that stood under the verandah which ran round the building. Just then a small, pleasant-looking man in a green cap and tassel made his appearance at the door. " I say, stranger," ventured Pruuon, "can I have a glass of water?" "Why, are you a patient ? ' asked the little man. "I should say I was," replied Prudon, "I came her6 in that wagon." Much to the joy of Prudon, who was very thirsty, the little man disappeared within the door with alac- 792 TALES OF THE TIMES. ritv. He soon returned, but instead of water he held a book in his hand, and approaching the invalid he opened it and drew from his pocket a pencil. ** What is your nanle '( " " Prudon.'*^ " Give it to me in full if you please ; and have you any friends here, and where is your home ? " " Answer me one question first," replied the patient, now growing weak and irritable, " why are you so particular about all that ? ' " So that, in case you die, vou know, I may be able to write home for you." Piudon began to feel that he was indeed booked for the next world, and looked at the small door cut through the thick adobe as the opening to his grave. He now asked to be taken in, for he was getting weak again, and was almost choked with thirst. The little man called two attendants, who took him up, and en- tering the door laid him on a bed. The room was about seventy feet in length by thirty in width, and contained nearly one hundred invalids in every stage of the disease. They were stretched on cots ranged in rows across the room. Some were groaning and some were cursing, but most of them lay quite still. They were cared for as well as might be at such a time and in such a place, but it was pitiful to see them lying there alone, and dying alone, and at such a fear- ful rate. For every morning when the attendant went round he was sure to find three or four of them cold and stiff, having died without a word, and appa- rently without a struggle. Of such the attendants merely straightened the limbs and covered the head with the blanket ; then taking up the cot, they carried it out at the back door, put the bodies in a rough board coffin, and stacked them up to be carted away. Truly, never went men so far to find a death so sad. Our Louisiana friend did not like this night dying, and so he took care to waken early in the morning, that he might not be carried out and boxed up asleep. A CONVERTED SINNER. 703 A <fn(fd doctor helped him through, however, and in time ho was convalescent. Then with return in*; ap- petite, how he thought of home, and longed for some- thing from his mother's table I Discharged at last, he walked, or rather, crawled, one morning into the city, ragged, dirty, and without a dollar in money. After walking about some time, weak and fainting, he seated himself upon a step. Matters were getting serious with him. Ho was not yet fit for work, although he was well enough to leave the hospital ; but to earn or make or get his dinner and a place to sleep, he had not the remotest idea how or where. Fortune now smiled on him in a way he least expected. Seated thus, ho saw crossing the street one he should know. Could it be possible, Caleb Anderson, his old friend and college mate? "Cabel" he shouted. The man turned and looked at him, looked earnestly. He saw it all. Dress, feature, attitude — what volumes were written tliere to the friend who could read them I Approaching his old comrade, he lifted him up, and drawing his arm within his own he led him away, speaking scarcely a word. The meeting of friends, often under circumstances the most peculiar, each of whom had come to California unknown to the other, if told upon the pages of fiction would be pronounced improbable. Prudon's troubles were over, and he was soon in a position to help others, as he had been helped. A godless gold-digger strolled into a new methodist church at Forest City one Sunday, and after gazing listlessly about for some time, his attention was at length arrested by the story which the mitiister told of a miner who had miraculously escaped death on falling into a shaft while in a state ni i itoxication. So impressed was this man by a sense ot the danger he had escaped that he immediately sought religion and found it. "After sitting one hour on the repcntant's seat," m TALES OF THE TIMES. said the preacher, "God forgave liiin his sins «»nd thenceforth he was a new man." Now it happened that the hsteuer hhnself liad like- wise one night not long since become beastly drunk, stumbled into an old uncovered shaft on his way home, and escaped unliarnied. The force of example fell upon him. He became uneasy, twisted himself in his seat, and finally rising up called out to the speaker, "Is that a fact?" "It is certainly true," replied the preacher. Turning to the one seated nearest him, he exclaimed, " My case exactly ; I fell into a hole, came out all right ; religion must be a good thing ; by God I'll try it on too 1 " Therewith he marched forward and took his seat under the more immediate droppings of the sanctuary. Among the miners at Carson creek, near the Stanislaus river, was an old man who had been there some months — it was generally believed that lie had been successful — no one knew what he did with his gold, for he was a man of economical liabits, and free from the vice of gambling. People ' oved that he buried his gold. One day the old threw the whole camp into excitement by frantically rushing about and declaring that he had been robbed of his gold. He was rather liked and most of the miners sympathized with him, and oflered to assist him in finding the gold, and in catching and punishing the robber. After numerous inquiries of the old man, it was as- certained that he had been in the habit of burying his treasures in different places ; and that the amount of which he had been robbed was concealed in a leathern bag at the foot of a certain tree — which particular bag was filled with lump gold, specimens, etc. He took several persons to the spot and showed them the hole cornered by a flat stone. Upon examining the place carefully, a large go- pher's hole was discovered in the side of the cavity in GOPHER STORIES. wliich the bag had been dcpoHitod. One of the party suggested to seart'h the goplier's hole. A shovel was brought and the side drift carefully followed. After tracing it about ten or twelve feet, there was found a little ante-room or chamber of about six inches deep, made in the side of the main road or hole, with a neatly paved floor of lumps of gold, and in the rear of this extravagantly furnished apartment was found a portion of the old man's leathern bag. The den of the robbers had evidently been found, but only a small portion of the gold — where was the rest? Following the trail of the robber a little far- ther, they came upon a succession of apartn)ents or niches, and found each one as regularly and beautifully paved with gold as if done by tlie hand of man, while in each was found a small portion of the leathen bag, as if used as a lounge or mattress. Not a single [)ar- ticle of gold was found along the line of the main road ; all had been carefully carried into and deposited in the side rooms. Tin; whole amount was weighed, and found to be exactly equal to the gold the old man had buried in the bag. The gopher succeeded in escap- ing unharmed. Such is the gopher story of the Stanislaus. We have another gopher story. "Last Monday our usually quiet burgli was awakened by the intelligence that new diggings had been discovered within a few hundred yards of the town, paying twelve dollars to the pan. Hundreds inunediately flocked with picks and spades to the place, and in a short time had staked oft' the whole hillside. They worked very diligently until evening, when the discoverers,let some of their friends into tlie secret. They had buried bags of gold dust there last spring, and in digging for it found that the gophers had eaten the buckskin bags, obliging them to wash the surrounding earth. Ten minutes after this announcement there was not a miner or tool to be seen about the new diggings." 796 TALES OF THE TIMES. Italian straw hat? were m favor at one time to the disgust of a Panamd hat dealer who vainlv souijht to get rid of his high-priced wares. One day he bethought himself to buy five dozen hats from the Italian rival, and donate them to the chain-gang working in the street. When the straw-hat wearers saw these men decked therein, they at once discarded theirs and patronized the dealer. Swan tells the following story of a tall Irishman named Frank, whom he knew at the mines in '48. Frank found a great deal of gold, but threw it away on drink. He used to go on a spree for two or three days at a time. One day he was drinking at a liquor tent, and had his buckskin bag open in his hand, A looker-on told him to be more careful or he would lose his gold ; whereupon he seized the bag by the bottom and scattered it all around on the ground outside the tent, saying he could get plenty more. He had three pounds in the bag at the time, and it was nearly all lost. Some time after that Frank made $7,000 at the Middle fork, which lasted him just six weeks. In the summer of 1850 five dollars was not an un- usual price to be paid for a watermelon in the mines. Joshua Griffith, an old pioneer, planted six acres in the spring of 1851 on the Merced, and confidently ex- pected to realize a handsome sum from them when ripa. Sometime previous to this he had purchased a thousand straw hats which he still had on hand, their sale being dull and when the young watermelon plants came up, to protect them from the frosts, he determined to utilize the hats, and at night each vine would be carefully covered ; and in the morning when the sun would commence to pour his warm beams on the earth the vines would be uncovered. Everything was auspicious, until one morning Griffith went as usual to uncover the vmes, when not a hat, vine, nor any of the soil that had been turned up by the CLEBOYMEN. 7d7 plough, was to be seen. All had been swept away by the rivjjr which had risen during the night, while poor Griffith, in a dream, was selling luscious water- melons at three dollars apiece. California has always offered peculiar attractions to clergymen. The opportunities for doing good were great during the flush times, and many availed themselves of them. As a rule the most talented preachers at the east were glad to come to California upon a good call with a fair salary. Their congrega- tions here were so fresh, so full of the fire and entliu- siasm of 3'oung manhood, so keenly appreciative, that it was a pleasure to labor among them. Ministers were obliged to work harder here than in more settled comnmnities, but few cared for that. Everybody worked harder. There was much to do, and the emissaries of Satan were no less active than were the servants of God. They had their old ser- mons to fall back upon, which was a great help, par- ticularly to those somewhat advanced in years. Very old clergymen California did not care for. It only shows with what thin pabulum those who sit in pews are satisfied when they expect a man of ordinary ability to write two sermons a week, to make frequent parochial visits, indulge in society gossip, attend marriages and nativities, and offer the consola- tions of religion to the dying. This is right enough when one has the fathomless well of genius, like Beechcr, to draw from, but it will not do for those who are obliged to elaborate tlieir slow stale thoughts, as most men are, in the clt)set. One sermon fit to preach before a really intelligent audience requires the diligent thought and study of an ordinary intellect for at least a fortnight. It were infinitely better for the average clergyman to read printed sermons than to preach the trash ho does. How few discourses have any thing new or really instructive in them ! The same ideas, hashed TALES OF THE TIMES. from time immemorial in the same words, become un- interesting after a while to the really hungry. The mind alive to the swift whirl of progress wants some- thing besides ancient and oft-repeated stories and traditions. The moment one begins to think, seats in churches grow hard. We have had many good men in California as spir- itual teachers, many saintly men, many true patriots, many of marked talents. No man exercised greater or more beneficial influence durincj a crisis which was to determine the destinies of the state than Thomas Star King, who spared neither voice nor pen to save the republic from dissension. In Doctor Scott the Californians of early days saw her Saint Paul, and the divine Saint John was not more heavenlv-niinded than Doctor Wadsworth, overflowing as he was with pure though peculiar genius. But among the many good men of the ministerial class, as among others, there were some bad men. Of tliese, few knew of their badness themselves when they left their homes. Throughout their lives ser- mon had followed Sunday school, and college, cate- chism, and they really regarded themselves as saintly. No one was more surprised than they, after they had been in the mines a short tune to catch themselves drinking at a bar, betting at monte, or frequenthig a house of ill-fame. Of all plants, probably a youtliful clergjmian in a stormy climate is the most tender. Educated into tlie belief that belief is everything, while actually not knowhig what belief is; taught to think himself by reason of his profession alone whiter than others in his purity, stronger in his strength, when bereft of these stays he often falls deej)er than any. It was so in flush California. Hundreds of those who came hither fell, fell very low, lower than some who professed less. Many took on the Hverv of Satan before they touched the shore — in New York, on the steamer, or at the Isthmus ; so that when they CLERGYMEN. 799 arrived in California they never made it known that they had ever been clergymen. Some entered a course of systematic swindling which lasted for years, during the whole of which they never ceased to parade their cloth. They were ministers of the Lord, incapable of iniquity, and so their blackest sins they covered with robes of white. Finding preaching in the interior unpopular and un- profitable, some became miners; but as a rule they did not take kindly to work. Their theology had in- structed them that although the Lord might pay his servants poorly, yet he did usually pay them scjuie- thing ; and that lucre alone was In their estimation sanctified which came without labor. They were the Lord's, as indeed was the country, the golil, the corn, and the wine, and the cattle on a thousand hills. Their instructors had told them that three years' read- ing theology had made them different from other men; that God loved them better for it, and would do more for them than for those who had been all this time digging potatoes, or doing something useful. It is the most pernicious and ruinous doctrine in the world. Yes, thev were different from other men, ditt'erent by reason alone of their holy teachings, their holy professions and protestations ; so different, that the business man would immediately suppoct one who slumld utter the name of Christ in connection with a moneyed transaction. Some, on reaching California, sunk their reverend titles and turned gamblers. Here they saw at once that the parade of their profession would not pay, that piety and prayers in a game of poker woultl be suspi- cious of aces and kings tucked away in sleeves or other stiintly receptacles. So scores went down into" the depths, and never after saw the light ; often changing their names so that their friends should never again hear of them. But by far the greater number refused to throw away the holy appellations which had cost tluur pa- TALES OF THE TIMES. rents and themselves so much to acquire. The masses in California, except in money matters, were soft in heart and conscience toward old family-altar and Sun- day-school memories, and the colors of the childish superstitions concerning clergymen had not yet been wholly eradicated by the toils and tumults of Califor- nia. Quack medicine was a little more efficacious coming from holy hands. It was not quite so unpal- atable being cheated by a soft, smooth-tongued, glow- ing gospeler, as by a Jim Stuart or a John Jenkins. This the pious pilgrims soon ascertained; and so many turned clerical tramps, going from place to place, preaching cheap nonsense here and there to stupid prayer-lovers, picking up such nuggets and knowl- edge as they could lay their hands on, paying for their breakfast with a hymn of praise, and on the whole satisfied with their three years' reading of stale theology and the Lord's care of them therefor. A favorite plan was to turn insurance agent, or take a sewing-machine or patent medicine, and beg f)eople for Christ's sake to buy of them, and for the ove of Christ many would so buy. So easily are men duped on the side of their prejudices. In this way, during a long business career, from the most hal- lowed opinions of the cloth which had been instilled in their minds since infancy, good, honest-minded men came to regard them as they were. But it was slowly, and at the cost of numerous losses, that the eyes were opened. Then people saw the country full of canting, hypocritical humbug, which, in the name of religion, preyed upon the poor and credulous. As insurance agents they became very expert, quickly learning whenever they encountered a man how much of sal- vation or danmation to mix with their wares, or whether to dish up for their customer piety or profanity. Twenty broad examples might be cited of their ras- cality, which happened under the direct observation of the community, but one will here suffice, as it is not a very delightful theme. AN OILY CUSTOMER. 801 An insurance office on California street in San Francisco, was for many years under the efficient and zealous management of Mr C. T. Smith. His opinion of the honesty of clerical insurance agents >vas bad enough, but they were among his most suc- cessful men, and he was obliged to employ them, and, as far as he could do so with safety, to accommodate them. One Saturday afternoon, the banks being closed, Smith brought to the cashier of liis company a cler- gyman, one of his best agents, long and favorably known to him, with a request for the loan of $160 for half an hour. The cashier had filled his phace ft)r many years, and ever proved the faithful guardian and vigilant Cerbe- rus of the company's strong-box. Moreover, he was gentlemanly and accommodating. There was no one on California street who would go farther to do a favor tha!i he, but a battalion could not force him to break a rule of the company, or take any liberty with the funds entrusted to him. In this instance he hesitated. There stood an agent of the company, a good man, a clergyman, whose re- quest was urged by the mana[>er of the department with which he transacted his business. The head of the establishment was not present at the time, and thus the whole of the responsibility was thrown on the cashier. He did not like either to refuse or to acquiesce. *' Accommodate him if you can," said Smith. "One hundred and sixty dollars," muttered the cashier, as his hand slowly sought the knob of the safe, "and for only half an hour; Saturday afternoon, has money in the bank, can't get it— hum, ahem I" "I will certainly return it you within the half hour," said the clergyman in sepulchral tones, smiling blandly. "It seems to me a little strange," replied the cashier, "that having been in town all day, and knowing that you would require this money this afternoon when the Cal, Int. Poc. U 802 TALES OF THE TIMES. banks were closed, you did not draw it before. Be- sides, what can you want with the money for only half an hour?" "Sir, do you know who I am?" demanded the minister. "Yes, I know very well who you are," replied the cashier, " and all I can say is that 1 have no authority to loan you this money." " Let him have it and charge it to me," exclaimed Smith, somewhat impatiently, thinking the cashier too particular. The cashier gave the minister the money and made a ticket of it to Smith. The borrower hurried away. When he had gone the cashier turned to Smith, who had not yet left the place. "Mark my word," said he, "that money goes upon the tiger." " But he is a clergyman, and one of our best agents," returned Smith. " I don't care," said Tom, "clergyman or no clergy- man, while we are talkhig your money is on the gambler's green cloth, and not a stiver of it will you ever see again. Mind you, for only half an hour. Besides being a rascal the man is a fool. Anybody but a preacher would have made a better story than that." Smith grew uneasy. He was of a nervous sanguine temperament, not easily excited in his suspicions, being the soul of integrity himself; but once aroused nothing stayed him. There appeared to him now much truth in what the cashier said ; indeed there was no other way of accounting for the reverend borrower's behavior. Smith fidgeted, walked from the desk a short distance and hastily returned, swore a few gentle oaths, and finally s<,lzed his hat and started off at a brisk pace turning up Kearny street. Almost to the plaza he walked, then back to Cali- fornia street, where turning he repeated his steps first taken. He had not proceeded far on this second tack SMITH GOES FOR THE CLEROYMAN. 803 when he saw his friend coming toward him with bended head and a slouched hat drawn well oves his eyes. His whole appearance betokened the ruined gamester, and that such he was there could be no longer any doubt. Smith went for the man of God. " Where is my money ? " he demanded, waking the clergyman to a realizing sense of things by a tre- mendous slap upon the back. " I left it with a friend." "Where is my money?" roared Smith, seizing the reverend collar and shakmg the rising lie from the reverend lips. " Lost every dollar of it," was the reply. " Take me to the place ? " "I cannot." "You will; quickly, now, if you would avoid a scene." Slowly the good man turned and walked about a block, ascended a flight of stairs, passed through an ante-room into a large saloon where stood several tables, and thence into a back parlor, Smith following closely at his heels. In this room behind a table was a large and highly ornamental safe well filled with money. On one side stood a secretary writing, and on the other a big burly short-haired Irish shoulder- striker. Smith saw no danger, but only the safe, and one whom he took for the proprietor, who was in the act of opening the door of his treasure-house, when the former, now pale with passion, walked up to him and exclaimed : "I want my money." " What name ? " asked the man, as calmly and as politely as if in answer to the most common and reasonable of requests. " insurance company," was the reply. The gambler looked at Smith and then at the par- son. He took it all in at a glance. With his hand still upon the knob, in the attitude the intruders first 804 TALES OP THE TIMES. found him, he meditated an instant, but only an in- stant, when he opened the door of the safe and c(junted out the money. The gambler saw that he was caught, that Smith could and would make him nmch more trouble than the money would do him good, and that this was by far his best way out of it. Smith took the money and departed, the good man meekly following. Even in the interior, Califomians concluded in 1850 that there were sufficient conveniences to render life »X)nifortable, while in San Francisco the man with money might indulge in luxuries to any extent, and even board at a hotel having a notice posted "Pota- toes at every meal." True, there were some, who, like the Englishman, seemed to expect as much of a plac!e which had called itself a city but for twelve months as of a metropolis twelve hundred years old. This John Bull, with more belly than brains, and characteristically prolific in left-handed compliments to tliose who showed him attention, was invited by a friend to a public dinner, which, considering the new- ness of things, and the fact that the market was neces- sarily supplied entirely from abroad, was really elegant. The Englishman feasted himself to his heart's con- tent, and rose from the table with happiness shining from every corner of his face. His entertainer, natu- rally proud of the capabilities of so new a countr}, slapped him on the shoulder and exclaimed, " Well, sir, was not that a good dinner? " " Very good, very good," replied the Englishman but then its nothing to what I have eaten in London ! " One Sunday immediately after the receipt of the news of Louis Napoleon's doings in the Crimea, a clergyman of Nevada took occasion to refer in riattering terms to the Bonaparte family in general. A volatile Frenchman happened to form one of the congrega- tion. Scarcely had the preacher reached the culmi- THE FAITHLESS HUSBAND. 806 nating point of his encomiums, when up jum|>ed the Gaul, and thrusting his hand deep iii his pocket drew forth a ten-dollar piece, and marching up to the pulpit deposited it upon the desk hi front of the speaker. One morning after breakfast a woman sat quietly looking over the paper, when glancnig her eye down the list of passengers to sail by the 'femieasee, April 1, 1851, she started as if stung. There, about the middle of a list of two or three hundred, she saw the niiine of her husband. It is true his trunk was packed, but, as he had informed hor, for a short trip into tlit; country. Her first impulse was to create a disturb- ance; but being a sensible woman, on reflection sl.e concladed such a husband was not worth having, and he might go. As he was then absent from the house making preparations for his long voyage, slie unlocked his trunk and examined the contents. Sure enough there was the evidence, in the shape of all his mov- able property, of his intention to abandon her; and among the rest $8,000 in cohi. "At all events," she said to herself, * he shall leave me some means of support." So she took from the amount $.*},()00, a moderate division on her part, locked the trunk and bade her husband farewell, giving no- signs of her knowledge of his intentions. Th'isboth played their little first of April trick, and the wife was not the loser. The grizzly bear is the king of Californian beasts, rivalling in courage and stnuigti the royal lion him- self They are bold and cunning and in early days were very ])lentiful. Then the old hunters of Mis- s,)uri ami Kentucky, who had been tempted by the piomise of lucre from the traffic of their love, often turned for a few hours from their digging to chase or be chased by the grizzly. Early one morning in 1849 a M issourian, called by his comrades Graygritz, took up his rifle and started out fo/ a buck. He had not 806 TALES OF THE TIMES. proceeded far before lie came upon a herd feeding, which, scenting liiui before he could get a shot, niaile off' up the hill and along the comb of the ridge. Gray- gritz followed at the top of his speed. Approaching a little thicket, the hunter noticed that the deer sud- denly shied and took a wide circuit round the covered spot, Graygritz paid little attention to it, however, and cut across, passing by the very verge of the thicket. Suddenly a tremendous crash was heard, and out rushed an enonnous grizzly with o|x.'n mouth and angry eye. There was not a moment to lose, the beast was upon him. Instinctively the hunter raised his gun, fired, and missed. There was no time to turn ; the hot breath of tlie hifuriated animal the hun- ter could feel upon his cheek. Swinging the barrel over his head he struck desperately at his assailant, thus clubbing off the terrible foe, until in making a blow the weapon flew from the hunter's hand, leaving him without the slightest means of defence. There was nothing now but to run for it. Darting down the hill, running obliquely so as to take the bear at the greatest disadvantage, the fearful race began. Down the steep hillside rattled the loose stones, and every leap of the bear made the chaparral crash. Again and again the bear was almost upon him, striking at him its ponderous paws with such force as to bring it to its knees. Thus they rushed along until they reached the foot of the hill, when the fugitive became conscious that his strength was gone. He saw before him a horrible death; there was no escape, great drops of agony fell from his forehead ; his limbs tot- tered ; in sheer desperation he turned upon his foe, and boldly facing it, uttered an unearthly yell. The beast stopped amazed, drew back, then turned and fled. A Mexican and an Irish woman once went to a clergyman to be married. The bride could not speak the Mexican's language, and the groom could speak no Irish. The clergyman, who was a good THE FORTY-NINER. 807 linguist, tried first to tie the knot in English, but the Mexican lauglied so immoderately and so persistently when called upon to repeat the omin- ous words, that the man of matrimony became angry, closed his book, and left the pair only half united. Bridget rushed after him and begged him, with tears in her eyes to finish the business, assuring him her loved one meant no disrespect. Returning ho admin- istered the oath of allegiance to the Irish in English, and to the Mexican hi Spanish, and the united pair went their happy way. Here arc two sketches ; one the forty-niner and the other the fifty-sixer: "Burled anumg the recollections of by-gones are the go<jd old times when eight feet square was a claim, and a crowbar, sheath-knife, and pan constituted a full set of mining tools. When working with a rocker was considered rushing business, and holding two claims a mono|x>ly ; when jxjtatoes were an expensive luxury, and flap-jacks passed current for bread ; when men tlisdained to speak of dollars and cents, but reck- oned their small change in ]X)unds and ounces; when the abodes of honest miners were not dignified by the modern terms of houses, towns, and cities, but were known as cabins, camps, and ranches; when Judge Lynch disposed of all desjierate cases in a summary manner, through the simple medium of a jury of nuners; and such things as petty swindling, petty thievhjg, and pettyfoggers were unknown ; when the only sickness in vogue was a headache after a big spree, and the only medicine, the liair of that same dog. Alasl the country is getting civilized, alarm- inolv civilized 1 " Such are the reflections of an old fortv-nmer, who, having outlived his time, now smokes the pipe of peace and poverty — an honorary member of tlie Can't- get-away club. He has flourished in the season of big strikes, and can, if he chooses, give you a leaf eo8 TALES OF THE TIMES. from his experience concerning rich pockets, and turn liis own inside out without spilling anything. Like Wilkius Micawber, he has great hopes of something turning up ; so ho prospects, contenting himself when unsuccessful, as he generally is, with simply cursing his luck, but will see you where the climate is anything but cool before he will work for wages. Thinks hon- est industry is a mighty fine tiling to talk about, but big luck is a fortune, and is the peculiar gift of the Muggins family. Believes that old clothes are an honor to the wearer, but has a lurking suspicion that men with white shirts, tall hats, and black coats are preachers, office-seekers, or monte-sharps. Is fond of white folks and whisky, but hates greasers and Cliina- men; is a firm advocate of lynch law, and thinks the California legislature a humbug, not excepting the doings of our last body of lawgivers. He has many other peculiar notions, which he pretends are fijunded on experience, but being the opinion of an old fogy, are of course behind the times, and extremely liable to be erroneous. Gold mining is his favorite tliei:.c. If you wish to draw him out on that particuU" sn'>if!ct, just say to him that he has been in the country l(^ng enough to have a waijon-load of dust. He will give you a knowing wink and a sagacious shrug, seeming to say, I could a tale unfold, and then proceed to un- fold a remarkably long one." Next we have the later comer. " That's him, with the stovepipe hat, black pants, satin vest, white shirt, and cravat with two round turns and a square knot 1 See, he carries a car[)et- bag, and bless me 1 if he hasn't got a full-grown um- brella, tool No old inhabitant would ever mistake him for a forty-niner. We know their sort by their backs. Does not his countenance beam with the light of great expectations? Isn't he, even now, cogitating upon some safe plan of investing his dust? — discussing in his own mhid whether he had better trust it to the tender mercies of a banking-house, or bury it in some THE FIFTY-SIXER. 800 secure comer? That emphatic gesture with the um- brella I Ahl he has concluded to bury it — banks are mif|hty uncertain — even banks of earth, but he don't realize tl.at yet. Don't make his acijuaintance till he gets naturalized, and has the wire edge taken ott', un- less you wish to be most essentially bored. Ho is a harp of a thousand strings, and will vex your ear with a multitude of tiresome yarns about his personal ad- ventures on the route, hard fare on the steamers, in- dignation meeting of the steerage passengers, what they resolved to do, what they didn't do, what the captam swore he would do, what the mate said, how an old woman and five children were dreadful sick all the way from New York to Aspinwall, terrible tinje on the Isthmus, Panamti fever, lost his trunk and paid a big nigger five dollars reward for finding it, has no doubt but it was the same identical nijiiier who stole it. Arrival in San Francisco, feller tried to rope him into a game of chuck-a-luck, too smart to be caught, surprised at finding that five-franc pieces pass f<ir a dollar ; how like thunder they charge for meals on the road from Stockton, and so forth. " After he has emptied his budget of wonders, he opens his volume of catechisms, and will ask you more foolish questions than it is pleasant to listen to, or profitable to answer — among which you are sure to hear the following : How long does it take a man to make his pile, s'posin* he's industrious ? How far is it to the northern mines? Where is the best plaee for mining in California? How long does the rainy season last? Is it necessary for a man to have an oil-cloth suit? How much will the dirt average from the top down, in Mary Posey county ? — and last, unkind- est cut of all — when will that water company have their ditch completed ? My rule is to stave off his ques- tions, as well as possible, till he comes down to that, which I answer by saying 'next 3'ear,' at the same time." In early times Heinrich Hcrz came to San Fran- 810 TALES OF THE TIMES. CISCO. It was then the place alike for prince, pianist, and porter. The forests of masts sporting the flags of all nations astonished him ; Ukewise the bustle of business and the confusion of tongues that greeted his ears on landing, but his enthusiasm cooled somewhat when on seeking lodgings he was shown a cloth-lined closet of a bedroom at six dollars a day. " Never mind," thought he, " is it not something to be the pit)neer pianist in these parts ? " A knock in- terrupted his meditations. " Do not enter," cried Herz. Nevertheless, the door opened, and a slight young man with a fair com- plexion, long hair, earnest manner, and German accent stood at the entrance. "Is this the celebrated Heinrich Herz," asked the visitor. " I am he," replied the pianist, " and if you will come in, you must first permit me to go out, as the room will not hold two." " I come, sir, on purpose to take you from it; to beg of you to accept a room in my house." " Ah I you are a hotel keeper." " No, sir, I am a pianist." " Pianist," cried Herz, thunderstruck at finding a brother artist before him in the mingled nmdflats and sandhills of that town of tents and board slian- ties planted on a tongue of land at the very outer verge of the earth's confines. " How long have you been here ? " ** A year. When I arrived there were but fourteen huts ; but I found an Italian who had a piano occupy- ing one of them and giving lessons and concerts. One of his pupils, taking exceptions to his method of training, murdered him, and I inherited his piano and his patrons. I have bought me a house and shall be the liappiest of men if Herr Heinrich Herz will accept my hospitality." The invitation was accepted as cor- dially as it was given. The home was perched on stilts under the brow of a steep hill, and the great HEINBICH HERZ. 811 musician, after spending/ one night in the front room which overlooked "the declivity, called to his host: "You will think me very whimsical, no doubt, but could you without inconvenience give me a room on the other side of the house. I fancied I heard during the night a settling of sleepers and rattling of rocks. All imagination, doubtless; but if you can, please humor me." " Do as you like," said the young householder, " but rest assured this is one of the safest houses in the city." Scarcely had they transported the professor's ef- fects to another room than that side of the house foil with a crash. Herz escaped by a miracle ; the young man was in despair. "I would not mind, it he ex- claimed ; " but my piano is gone. It was a poor one it is true, cracked, and of only five octaves; but it answered my purpose ; it was my fortune, and now there it lies smashed, and buried in the rubbish." "Never mind," said Herz, "I have two, and you shall have one of those ; so cheer up, and repair your house, while I go and bring them up." Passing a restaurant he met a man whom he had known in Paris, talking with two others, not extrava- gantly dressed, but genthsmanly in their appearance. Accosting him, he casually spoke of his errand, and inquired whom he could get to move his pianos. "I will do it," said his friend, "and these gentlemen will lielp me." "But you are not serious?" said Herz. " Never more so. Everybody works in California." The pianos were well and promptly moved. "How much is it?" asked Herz of his friend. " Three hundred dollars," was the reply. "Three — what?" exclaimed the musician. "I assure you it is the price," said his friend, in which assertion he was backed by his host, fo that, turning it off with a laugh, Heiz paid it, and instantly sat down to reckon how many tickets to his concert, Bid TALES OF THE TIMES. at three dollars each, he would have to sell to pay expenses. The following is but one of innumerable like mat- rimonial adventures: A young man of twenty-fivo arrived in California from one of the southern states in 1849, and settled in Marysville. By the exercise of industry and economy, in 1855 he found himself in possession of money and property to the amount of sixty or eighty thousand dollars. But tlie poor fel- low was wifeless, and hence lonely and dissatisfied. His m<mey did not bring him happiness ; his life was passing away, and he making no mark. His existence was incomplete, hollow, comfortless. He must have a wife, and as women in his vicinity were few and scarcely to his liking, he set out for the bay city with matrimonial Intent. There he found one whom he concluded to try at a venture, but she would none of him. And so it was with all ; those w ho would marry him, he would not marry; those whom he would marry would not marry him. Giving it up he returned home, a disappointed man. One day, m)t long after his return, he happened to meet a friend, a young married woman, at a moment when he was in a confiding humor. Ho told her the tale of his eore heart, of his attempt and failure, and her sympathies were immediately enlisted. Where is the woman whose blood does not warm in such a cause? The young man was worthy and wealthy. During the convui'sation his fair friend happened to think of a sister she had left in New Jersey, two years younger, and the counterpart of herself; perhaps she might be induced to come to California and fill the void in this man's affections. She hinted as much to her companion, who eagerly made a direct offer. He agreed to pay all the young woman's expenses out, and to marry her on her arrival. On behalf of her sister, his friend accepted the proposal, forwarded the young man's money to his intended bride, who on re- SHARP PRACTICE. 813 ceipt of it came immediately to California and was married. This true tale, with variations, might apply to thousands of marriages during the fast flush times. In the town of Marysville, in 1853, there lived a man of virtues invisible, but of faults palpable and too apparent. His reputation for honesty, like his form, was lean and angular. He would steal so skillfully, holding in his hands the spoils and peering meanwhile at his victim through the meshes of the law with such consummate cunning that one could do no less than beat him now and then. But such chastisements seemed rather to refresh him than otherwise. He felt all the while that he deserved so much worse at the hands of his fellows than they could give him, that even in his punishments he enjoyed the inestimable privilege of cheating them. Fortune smiled on skill and industry, and under real estate manipulations, shaving short paper by turning it down one half, and loaning money on good security at ten per cent a month, and managing so as to get all his interest, a portion of his principal, and then cheating the lender out of the collateral pledged, his capital grew rapidl}'. But happily for humanity the inevitable laws of traffic preclude the possibility of the eternal success of villahiy ; otherwise our Napoleon of finance would, ere this, have been the happy owner of all Marysville. Up to this time he had reigned rascal supreme, but now waves of trouble rolled over him, and a horrible incubus settled upon his affairs in the form of two lately-arrived lawyers, keen wiry fellows, hungrier and sharper than himself These two briefless sharks rented an office of our financier, the rent after the first quarter to be paid quarterly in advance. Promptly at the expiration of the first three months the cadaverous visage of the landlord, lengthened by the thought of the half year b rent now due, appeared in the lawyer's office, apptared 814 TALES OP THE TIMES. there day after day, and apjDeared manifestly dissatis- fied. Finall}/ his patience deserted him, and he in- dulged in the injudicious remark that in his opinion his tenants were a pair of swindling vagabonds, and that they should be incontinently ejected. Following this remark the landlord stepped out, stepped hastily out of the door, followed by two or three sticks of stove-wood stolen from his own wood pile. Consolation came to him in the form of oiie of the lawyers, who apologized for the indignity and de- nounced the conduct of the other, a wicked disgraceful man, thenceforward no longer his associate. Disso- lution of partnership was the least reparation he could make the landlord; moreover, he professed to be an honest man ; he would pay the rent himself, though parting with his shirt should be the consequence. But would not the landlord sue and eject the im- pudent vagabond. It was a simple case, and lawless lawyers should be taught behavior as well as cut- tliroats. Yes, it was his duty as a wealthy, high- mi p. led citizen, who had the interests of our great Amorican institutions at heart, to do it. The land- lord did not like the law, but anger, interest, and pride all urged him on. Suit was brought; the landlord's attorney argued the case for several days; he had plenty of time, he wished to brush up his legal lore, astonish the natives, and earn the respectable sura which reputation and the honor of his profession compelled him to charge his client. The justice de- cided against the landlord, that being the only way to secure his fee — two ounces. The much-abused tenant then sued the landlord for defamation of character, and summoned his associate as witness. The unhappy landlord now saw clearly that he had fallen among thieves. Having so long and so sweetly enjoyed cheating, he now might take the pleasure of being cheated. He saw that graceful discretion was better than blustering valor; so he told his tenants that they were welcome to their AMONG THIEVES. 813 room as long as they would favor it with their pres- ence, if so be they would kindly withdraw their suit for damages. The injured but forgiving pair ac- quiesced. One thing only now remained. A little bill of $500 for professional services oh the part of the landlord's attorney. Groaning in spirit the land- lord paid it, and the lawyers divided it between them. They also kept the defamation action m terrorenit whereat the landlord ever after was very meek. During the season of 1848-9 some men wintered in the region of Calaveras and Mokelumne, and before spring gold was more plenty than creature comforts. Hence it was that the first spring traders reaped rich harvests. In February 1849, a man named Ricord, with a body guard of three, to each of whom he paid $400 for two weeks' services for man and horse, started from Staples, then McKenzie's rancho, on the Moke- lumne river, for the spot later known as Robinson's ferry on the Stanislaus. Ricord drove nine pack ani- mals loaded with 200 pounds each of assortetl goods, composed largely of liquors. The rains had so soft- ened the ground as to greatly impede their ])rogress, but the sales which they made- — clay pipes two dollars each ; blankets forty dollars a pair ; liquor twenty dollars a bottle, one ounce the tin cup full or two dol- lars a drink: boots forty dollars a pair, and beads, powder, and medicines, weight for weight in gold — this description of barter reconciled the trader to the rain and mud. Passing Angel's and Carson's, even at that early day regarded as worked out, though later considered good diggings still, they finally reached their point of destination at the foot of Murphy's gulch, on the Stanislaus. No more riotous, roaring camp ever frightened the coyotes of the Sierra drainage. There congregated the diggers from every quarter, and held high carnival as long as their money lasted. Was it 818 TALES OF THE TIMES. not strange that these men should leave pleasant homes, travel three, six, ten thousand miles, and sub- ject themselves to the discomforts of a houseless Cali- fornian winter, for gold, only to pour it into the pocket of t)ie first whisky-seller that came to their camp! Ricord drove into camp about sunset. For six long weeks the place had been absolutely dry — of whisky. No sooner was it noised abroad that asup- ply of the bliss-producing poison was at hand, than eager applicants with outstretched hands holding cups, bottles, kettles, bowls, dishes, anything that would hold water, approached from every direction, craving each a portion as eagerly as if a draught of it conferred upon them immortality. Whereunto shall we liken the tapping of those whiskey kegs in that uproarious camp of the gold-dig- gers ? It was like the opening of Pandora's box which should let fly all the evils incident to man ; or like the mud-born serpent Python crushing all within its coils; or like the HarpyisB sweeping flighty souls away in the storm wind ; or like the Eumenides taking from men all peace of mind and leading them into misery and misfortune. The flow of this fiery liquid was like the pouring out of the seven vials of wrath by the apocalyptic angels, which should send abroad disease, turn elements of life into elements of death; which should scorch with fire, darken the intellect, dry up the affections, and cause men to blaspheme the God of heaven because of their pains and sores ; or like the surgings of the river of Erebus, the dark and gloomy passage to stygian realms. For all these ills, and more, it would require to consummate the scene that followed. In less than an hour were heard the ominous breathings of the ap- proaching storm. By nine o'clock there was scarcely a sober man in camp. On every side was rioting, hair-pulling, striking, brandishing of knives, and firing of pistols, accompanied with no little blood-letting. All nature was that ni;j:ht intoxicated. Even the A WHISKY-SMITTEN CAMP. g,; river seemed to reel, and the hills and sky to roll to- gether in sudden drunkenness. The morning sun. blear- eyed and red rose upon a picture disgusting! damnable Scattered about the streets, stretehed at foil length on their Wks and sides, and faces, mider lo^. fnd beside their cloth houses, were mingled promiscuously tamed men of Europe. Asia, and Africa, and milS mannered women of America, drunk, dead drunk, and RW^ t'flr. ^1 "^^*^^ ^y ^^^^ ««"owful sun Ricord left them there; left with them and in them every drop of his detestable poison ; but carried away gold, as much as he could several times lift. Cal. Int. Poc. 53 INDEX. Acapnlco, descript. of, 209-13. Adams, G., story of, 720-1. Agua Frio, justice at, 1852, 627-9. Alaska, want of prison facilities in, 434. Almond, W. B., peanut peddler, 1849, 591-2; judge, 59.3-000. Alvarado, D., death of, 744-5. Alvarado, Gov., " Historia de Cali- fornia," 41; statement of, 46. Amador, justice at, 1854, 646-7. Ames, A. M., the Chico riots, 1877, 573. Anderson, C, duel with Lewis, 1866, 780; story of, 793. Angel thond, duelling at, 1858,762-3. Applegato, I., mention of, 457; con- ference v'th Capt. Jack, 1871, 459-60; 1872, 465-6; the Modoc outbreak, 471, 478-82; campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 496. Applegate, J., Capt. Jack's demands on, 1871, 458-9; conference with Capt. Jack, 1872, 465-6; the Mo- doc outbreak, 1872, 478-82; peace commissioner, 1873, 510; resigns, 519; rept. of, 519-20. Applegate, L., the Modoc outbreak, 1872, 482. Applegate, 0., the Modoc outbreak, 1872, 478. Applegate, O. C, the Modoc outbreak, 1872, 486-7; campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 490-504; at Link- ville, 1873, 5.34-5. Ashley, discoveries of, 90. Aspinwall, descript. of, 1852, 15&-60. Atherton, M., trial of, 1877, 580. Atwell, R. H., mention of, 513. Auctions, descript. of, 346-7, 350-1, 358-9. Austin, duelling at, 1864, 778. Azanza, M. J. de, exploration of, 81. B Babbitt, A. W., mention of, 434. Badger Hill; justice at, 614-15. Baird, O. T., duel with Wright, 1853, 756. Baldwin, J., death of, 404. Bancroft, H. U., voyage to CaL, 1853, 124-224. Bandini, J., remark? of, 55. Banking, James, descript. of, 700-3. Barbour, W. T., story of, 611-12. Barlow, Capt. G., voyage of, 1719, 30. Barry, Justice R. C, administ. of, 1851, 630-,2. Bates, Alcalde, mention of, 608. Beane, C. E., duel with Wilson, 1870, 783. Beideman, H., challenge of, 1854, 761. Belt, G., alcalde, etc., 1849, 609-10. Benedict XIV, Pope, bull of, 746. Benham, C, Teriy's second, 771-2. Benson, T. L., duel with Menzies, 1854, 759, Bernard, Capt., the Modoc war, 1872-3, 485-504, 548. Bein, W., rascality of, 1857, 342. Bennett, gold found by, 58. Briddle, Col., reconnoissancea of, 1873, 528-9. Bidwell, J., mention of, 570-2. Bigler, Gov., the gold discov., 76-81. Biven, R., duel with Dorsey, 1854, 760. Blackburn, Alcalde W., story of, 652-3. Blair, J., duel of, 1852, 752. Blake, H. B., statement of, 43. Blake, M. P., mention of, 772. Boddy, Massacre, descript. of, 1878, 473-5. Boddy, R., killed by Modocs, 1872, 474-5. Boise city, disposal of lotn at, 412. (810) INDEX. »M Boildy, W., killed by Modocs, 1872, 474-5. Boise County Jail, mention of, 431. Bonneville, Capt., adventures of, 1832, 91. Booth, Gov., the Modocs' outbreak, 1872, 486. Booth, Mrs, the Laura D. Fair trial, 625-6. Borondo, 0. S., duel with Soto, 1826, 746. 'Boston Charley,' interview with Roneborough, 536; surrender and execution of, 5i38. Bontelle, affray with Modocs, 1872, 470-1. Bowie, H., mention of, 758. Boylc, Capt. W. H., the Modoo out- break, 1872, 488. Boyle, Lieut, escape of, 544-5. Boyle, Quartermaster, campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 50.3. Bowman, trial, etc. of, 63G-8. Braunan, S., stories of, 246-7, 607; trial of Pickett, 1848, 608-9. Brazer, M. C, duel with Park, 1854, 760. Briarly, Surgeon, mention of, 760. Broderick, D. C, duel with Smith, 1852, 752-3; with Terry, IS-W, 76.3- 72; (juarrel with Perley, 765-6. Brothcrton Massacre, descript. of, 474-7. Brotherton, Mrs, narr. of, 476-7. Brown, J., story of, 604-5. Brown, Judge, administ. of, 653-6. Bull-fighting, descript. of, 283-5. Burn ton, G. H., the Modoc outbreak, 1872, 488. Burton, Capt., campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 494, 499, 548. C Cabaniss, Dr, mention of, 544-5. Cal>ello, L., works of, 28. Calaveras county, justice in, 648-50. Calaveras grove, descript. of, 15. California, valleys of, 2-13; moun- tains, 2-22; scenery, 2-24; climate, 6-7; gold discoveries, 25-88; overl. and travel to 89-120; the voyage to, 121-224; mining in, 228-47, 364-6, 381-95, early miners of, 249-59; descript. of 8an Francisco, 260-93; society, 294-314; pursuit of wealth, 316-18; profanity, 319- 20; travel, 326-31; pack trains, 331-2; commerce, 33(5-58; stock- broking, 336-7; strikes, 330-40; California, coinage, 340-1; l>ank and business failures, 341, 344; prices 347-61 ;re8t't8, .349-50; business de- pression in, 1851-4, 366-7; progress of, 359-60; life and cliaracter in, 361-80; the Jewish element, .S72-4; lack of gov't in, 375; evil repute of, 376-6; squatter troubles, etc., in, 306-412; land commission for, 1851, 398-9; prisons, 413-:iO; the Modoc war, 446-.')60; outrages on Chinese, 1871, 1877,561-81; justice and judiciary, 582-657; <lrinktng, 661-84; hotels, 6(56-7; restaurunts, 668; saloons, 669, 674-8; gambling, 694-733; duelling, 741-84, 801-4; miscell. stories, <85-817; churcli, 797-805. Canby, Gen., appointment of, 1870, 453; petition to, 461; corresiiond. with Meacham, 460-4; with Wlieat- ton, 470; the Mwloc outbreak, 1872, 487; dispositions of, 1873, ."yM-o; correspond, with Sherman, 503-6; 616-17, 626-7; reply to peace com- mis., 519; negotiations, etc., of, 521, 631; messages to, 521-5; re- ports of, 530-2; conference with Modocs, 638-42, 543-4; death of, 642-3. Cardwell, stories of, 44.3-5. Carmelo creek, gold discov'd on, 68-9. Carpentier, M. le, collection, etc. of, 44-6. Carson hill, disturbance at, 237-40. Carson jail, buildings, etc., 426; es- capes from, 1871, 1877, 426-30. Carson's creek, gopher story at, 794- 6. Carson, J. H., 'Early recollections,' etc., 3.3-4. Carter, W. H., duel with De Courcy. 1852, 753. Case, S., peace commissioner, 187.3, 610; resigns, 619. Castillo, descript. of, 201. Castro, P., story of, 6.")4-5. Catalfi, Padre, M., prediction of, 40. Caucasians, order of, described, 570-2. Caulfield, affray with Judge Wilson, 1852, 640. Cavallier, E., mention of, 768. Cave, story of, 442. Cemeteries, descript. of, 290-1. Cerruti, story of, 627. Chagres river, boating on, 1852, 162-9; descript. of, 166 9. Champ, Justice J. W., administ. of, 635-8. INDEX. Chagres, desoript. of, 1852, 168. Chapin, Lieut, canii>aign at the Uva Ii«ds, 1872-3, 548. Chaviteaiix, H., duel with Bioharda, 1804, 758. Chico, outrages on Chineae in, 1876- 508-81. Chineae, outrages on, 1871, 1877,661- 81; duelling among, 1851, 760-1. Church, sketch of in Cal., 797-806. City Hall, San Francisco, desoript. of, 1849, 265. Cliffoi^I, the Carson jail Omenta, 1871, 426-7. Climate, (Cal. ) descript. of, 6-7. Clinton, Dr, story of, 361. Coinage, mention of, 340-1. Coleman, T., duel with Mulligan, 1 864 778. CoUett, J. W., death of, 1848, 748. Coloma, gold discov. at, 62-8i6; min> ing dispute at, 1861, 245-6. Colombo. Dr, mention of, 779. Colton, D. D., Broderick's second, 771. Cr)lton, Rev., statements, etc., of, 69-60; story of, 437-8. Commerce, descript. of, 336-68. Congress, land commission app'd by, 1861, 398-9; memorial to, 400. Conway, F., the Chico riots, 1877, 572-6; arrest, etc., of, 577-9. Cotter, J., duel with Nugent, 1862. 754. Crabb, Senator, mention of, 760. Crane, A., duel with Toby, 1868, 857. Cranston, Lieut, campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 648-9. Crawley, D., affray with Modocs, 1872, 472-3. Crook, Oen., petition to, etc., 1869, 460; removal of, 1870, 443; cam- ugn at the lava beds, 1872-3, Dans, J. D., remarks of, 46-7. D&vila, P., founds FanamA, etc, 178. Davis, B., story of, 720-1. Death, remarks on, 658-60. De Courcy, H. A., duel with Carter, 1852, 763. Deer Lodge Prison, descript. of, 431- 4. Delano, Secretary, the Modoc war, 1872-3, 606-7; answer to Orover's protest 1873, 610. Delano, Secretary, letter to Meacham, 616; correspond, with Canby, 633; indignation against, 646-7. Den, mention of, 411. Denter, C. W., story of, 636-8. Denver, J. W., duel with Gilbert, etc., 1862, 756-6. Denver, Lieut Gov., the ^meute at Carson jail, 1871,427-8. Devil's Cafion, duelling at, 1866, 761- 2. Dibble, O. M., duel with Lundy. 1861, 761-2. Dickson, J. P., duel with Thomas. 1854, 758. Donkeyville, justice at, 640-3. Donner tragedy, descript. of, 93-109. Dorris, recommendation, etc.. of. 493-4. Dorsey, H. P., duel with Biven, 1864. 760. Dougherty, E., story of, 1862, 626-7. Dowdigan, C. duel with Hawkins. 1864, 758-9. Downieville, justice at, 1850, 616. Drake, Sir F., vovage, etc., of, 26-7. Dress, descript. of, 295-6. Drew, reconnoissance of, 466. Drinking, evils, etc., of, 660-84; stories about, 662-84; customs, 664-6, 671-2; saloons, 669, 674-8; toasts, 676-7. Dubert, duel with EUseler, 1864, 760. Duelling, origin, etc., of, 736-6; folly, etc., of, 737, 742-4; hist, of, 740-1; in Cal, 741-84; in Spanish Amer., 744-6. *^ • Duke John,' story of, 727-33. Duran, Father, report of, 1825, 746. Dyar, Agent, conference with Capt. Jack, etc., 1872, 466-6; the Motloo outbreak, 1872, 478; at Camp Yainax, 491; peace commissioner, 1873, 628; conference with Modocs, 638-42; escape of, 542-3. B Eagan, Lieut, campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 649. Easterbrook, J. £., duel with Knight, 1859, 776. Eddy, W. H., the 'Donner tragedy,' 93-106. Eggleston, G., story of, 348. EIDorado, name, etc., 226-7. fillsellpr, duel with Dubert, 1884, 760. Estill. J. M., prison contracts of, 1861-6, 416-16. INDEX 821 *Euph6tnia,* prison ship, pnrchuo, etc., of. 1849, 415. Eureka, dnelling at, 1850, 748-0. Evans, D., duel with Northrop, 1877, 784. Evans, O. M., ■tatementa, etc., of, 55-8. Ewer, letter of, 27&-S1. Fahey, J., the Chioo riots, 1877, 673^. Fair, L. D., trial of, 623-0. Fairchild, Capt., campaign at the lava l)eds, 1872-3, 4i>4-504; n. ^o- tiations of, 512-14; the peace > .>m- mission, 613-14; interview with Capt. Jack, 535-6; Mo<loos sur- render to, 557-8. Fairfax, C. S., mention of, 750. Feather river, alleged gold discov. on, 1818, 37-8. Fellen, relief of Donner party, 102, 107. Ferguson, Senator, duel with Johnson, 1858, 762-.^ Ferree, I). J., the Modoo outbreak, 1872, 478. Ferrend, Major, mention of, 782. Field, Judge S. J., story of, 1850, 610-11. Finncgan, mining claim of, 239-40. Fisck, G., the Modoc outbreak, 187" 479. Fitch, T., duel Mrith Goodman, etc., 1803, 770-8. Flannagan, M. K, challenge of, 1854, 749. Fletcher, story of, 387-8. Folsom, justice at, 612. Folsom, Capt, squatter troubles of, 404. Folsom, duel with Russell, 1851, 751. ForlKJs, A., statements of, 18:)5, 42-.3. Foreigners, polit. influence of, 561-2. Fouke, duel with SaflFord, 1805, 779. Fremont, Gen., story of, 748. Frisbie, J. B., mention of, 412. O Galvez, J., exploration of, 31. Gambling, evils, etc., of, 686-08; laws against, 687-8; tricks in, 687, 691- 2; prevalence of, 680; inCal., 694- 733; efifect of, 695; banking games, 700-3; lasauenet, 700-3; rondo, 701; gamblers, the personnel of, 703-9. Gaming-honses, 708-10; monte, 711; stories, 695-7,713-.^% 801-4; poker, 719-20; chances in, 72:{-6. Oatewood, W. J., duel with (iioid- win, 1859, 775-6. Geary, J. W., alcalde, 1850, 600-1. Geysers, descript. of, 17-21. Gilbert, E., duel with Denver, etc., 1852, 756-6. Gillem, (icn. A. C, superset U-ii Wheaton, 1873, 506; tlio Modco war, 509, 547-69. Gillespie, story of, .346-7. Glover, A., relief of Donner l>arty, 102-6. Godfrey, G. K., sham duel of, 18.'9, 774-6. Gold Discoveries, in Cal., 2.'>-88. Gold-dust, trattic in, 340. Gonard, the ^ineute at Carson jail, 1878, 4.30. Goodale, Lieut, at Ft Klamath, 18i;9, 450-3. Goodman, I. T., duel with Fitch, 1863, 776-8. GocMlwin, P., duel with Gatewood, 1859, 775-6. Gordon, W., story of, 629. frorgonii, descript. of, 170-1. (Soscolo, Chief, death of, 747-8. Gould, story of, 639. Graham, W. H., duels, etc., of, 1851, 750. Graham, W. R., challenge sent to, 1854, 749. Grand Jury, descript. of, 1850, 600-1. Gray, statement of, 41. Gniyson, A. J the Donner tragetly, 04-5. Green, Col J., iit Ft Klamath, * '2, 469-70; corrcHpond with Wheatoa, 484-5; campaign at tlio lava hvdn, 1872-.3, 491-503, 548-52. Griffith, J., story of, 1851, 796-7. ^ Grover, Gov., petition, etc., to, 1872, 463-4; to Modoc outbreak, 1872, 486; protest of, 610; orders of, 1873, 555. Guzman, T. de, discovers site of Panamfi, 1615, 178. Gwin, W. M., duel of, 185.3, 756. Habana, descript. of, 151-2. Hacker, D. K., duel with London, 1864, 759-60. Hager, Judge, the Terry case, 772-3 Hanley, P., affray with O'Brien, etc., 1877, 783-4. 822 INDEX. Hamlileton, Mrs, death of, 2.18-9. Ihtrdcooii, death of, 117-8. lliirdy, .ludgo J. H., tlio Terry case, 18.V.>, 773; indicted for iiiuider, 774. }iara.s/,thy, Auguxtin, of U. 8. branch mint, :U2. Hari^raves, story of, 63. llasbrouck, H. C, mention of, 534, ll!i>!ting!4, L. W., the Downer tragedy, 'Jl». llaverstick. Registrar, trial before, g:«). Hawkins, J., duel with Dowdigau, ]HM, 738-9. Hayes, Alderman, duel with Nugent, 1853, 754-5. Hayes, T., Terry's second, 771. Hoaldsluirg, squatter troubles near, 411-11». Herbert, P. T., mention of, 759. Hertz, H., story of, 8()!t-12. Hill, !>., campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 495. Hitchcock, C. M., mention of, 760. lli/.er, Lieut, campaign at the lava bods, 1872^, 498. H oat Hoy, M., robbery, etc., of, 1877, 044-0. lloldcrbaum. A., the Chico riots, 1877, 573; trial of, 579. Holiday, outrage of, 410-11. 'Hooker .lim,' campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 492, 498; surrender of, 558. Hot creek, Indians of, 483-4, 487. Hovey, E., death of, 652. Howard & Melius, mention of, 345. Howe, Lieut, campaign at tlie lava beds, 187-23, 549, 554. Hoyt, exped. of, .3.3. lluliert, N,, duel with Hunt, 1854, 759. Hudson, story of, 728-.32. Hunt, ii. T., duel Mith Hubert, 1854, 759. Hunt, Major, mention of, 468. Hunter, J., duel with Pitcher, 782. Huntington, Superintendent, treaty with Indians, 1864, 446-7. Idaho, convicts of, 431. Innnigration, character of, 361-3. Irish, polit. influence of, 561. Indians, traffic with, 436-7; employ- ment of, 438-42; treaties with, 1864, 446-50; the Motloc war, 440- 560. Inge, S.W., duel with Stanley, 750. Jack, Capt., treaty with, 1864, 446- 50; negotiations with, 450-1, 457-9; 40i)-9, 483-4; at Mo<b)0 point, 451; at Lost river, 451, 454; complaints of, 4.')2; land claimed by, 4.'')3-5; raids, etc., of, 1870-1, 45.")-7; con- ference witli, 1871, 459-00; 1872, 465-6; insolence of, 46li 9; at- tempted arrest of, 470^3; campaign at the lava licds, 1872-3, 488-504, 547-57; message to t'anby, 522-5; conference with {>oaco commi.ss., 538-42; massacre of comniiss., 542- 6; surrender and execution of, 558. Jackson, Capt. J., at Ft Klamath, 1870, 457; aflFray with Modoc<, 1872, 470-2; campaign at 1.!ie lava beds, 1872-3, 490-504. .Tews, status, etc., of in Cal., 372-4. Jimeno grant, disturbance at, 1853, 410. Jones, H. J., the Chico riots, 1887, 572. Jones, H. T., conviction of, 1877, 579. Jones, W. H., the Hayes-Nugent duel, 1833, 755. Johnson, Dr, sayings of, 663-6. Johnson, (r. P., duel witli J-^Tguson, 1858, 762-3; trial of, 703. Jolinsou, Sheriff, mention of, 403-4. Judiciary, character of, 582-5, 5SK); stories of the, 691-657. Justice, administ., etc., of, 586-656. Kanakas, employment of, 441-2. Koarn, U., nuaition of, 448. Kelly, Capt. H. , the Modoc outbreak, 1872, 482; campaign at tlie lava beds, 1872-3, 491-503. Kelsey, (1., story of, 1850, 617-21. Kemble, E. C, duel with McDougal, 1851, 751. Ketchum, suit of, 639. Kewen, A., duel M'ith Woodlief, etc., 1834, 760-1. Keys, Capt., m^-ntion of, 403. Kiesburg, the Donner tragedy, 97-8, 106-8. King, T. S., influence of, 798. Kingston, descript. of, 133. Klamath basin, petition from settlers of, 1872, 463. Klamath, Fort, reservation at, 450; forces at, 1870, 464. Klamaths, treaty with, 1864, 446-50; raids of, 1863, 447. INDEX. Klain.iths, raids of, at Motloc point, ■i.'i.'-.'i: ciiiii|iiiign at tlio lava Itoila, Kiiaiip, 1*. v., at Ft Klamath, 1870, 4'}\-'i; ineutiiig with Capt. Jack, 45(>; naiovcd, 1870, 4.')7. Knight, (i., voyage of, 1719, SO. Kuif;lit, S., dud with Eastorbrook, 1851), 77«. Kriig, C, duel with Loehr, 1853, 7o(>-7. Kylu, Lieut, J. G., the Modoo out- lireak, 1872, 485; campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 490-501. La Paco, L., mention of, 779. Lagrode, the Tcrry-Broderick duel, 708. Lake county, justice in, 1865, 647-8. Lalako, Chief, raids of, 1863, 447, 4.")4-5. Land commission, appointment, etc. of, 1851, 398-S). Langell valley, Modoc raids, 73, 534. Langdon, S. , duel with llyer, '57, 761-2 Lark, Justice A., administ. of, 1854, 640-7. Larkin, T. O., statements of, 1846, 53-4. Lauiiqncnct, deacript. of, 700-3. Lava beds, deacript. of, 488-9; cam- paign of tlie, 1872-3, 490-505, 647- 57. Law-courts, 298; descript. of, 590- 656. f .awson, F. , mention of, 400. Leary, Lieut, mention of, 554. Lee, B., story of, 354-5. Leggett, W., duel with Morrison, 1852, 752. Lcmni, C, the Chico riots, 1877, 574. Leon, P. de, thiel with Velasco, 744. Levi, sham duel of, 1859 775. Lewis. T. D. P., duel with Somers, 185.3, 757. Lewis, duel with Anderson, 1806, 780. Lick, J., squatter troubles of, 405. l.inkville, alarm at, 1873, 534-5. Loehr, l)r, duel witli Krug, 1853, 750-7. Loker, T., suit of, 1850, 619-21. London, J. S., duel with Hacker, 1854, 759-60. Lopez, F., gold discov'd by, 1842, 47-8. Los Angeles, descript. of Negro Alley, 562-3; Chinese not at, 1871, 563-4. Los Angeles, ntttniges on Chinese at, 564-7; iniiiicHt at, 567-8; duelling at, 1852, Y'^3-4; 1870, 78.3. Lost river, Indian raids near, 1864, 449; 1870-1, 455-7; camp on, 1873, 505. Lower California, coast of, 216. Ludingtou, In8|)ector, report of, 1871, 460-1. Lundy, E. B., duel with Dibble, etc., 1851, 751-2. Luttrell, J. K., mention of, 656. M Magrudcr, Col, mention of, 753-4. Manoney, J., trial of, 1877, 579. Mammoth trees, descript. of, 14-15. Manoa, fabled treasures of, 226. Manzanillo, descript. of, 215. Mariposa, grove, descript. of, 15. Marshall, J. W., the gold discov.. 57- 8, 63-76; mining adventure of, 232. Martinez, adventure of, 226. Marysville, justice at, 1850, 610-11, 623. Mason, Col, the Modoc outbreak, 1872, 487-8; campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 4'.»4-5, 502, 547-50. Mason, story of, 442. MattlicwRon, the emeute at Carson jail, 1877, 429-.m May, E., murder of, .580. May, Senator, duel witli Rowe, 185.3, 757. Mazatlan, descript. of, 215-16. McChristian, P., story of, .38,'>-6. McCorkle, J. W., duel with Gwin, 1853, 756. McDonald, story of, 1814, 745. McDougal, G., duel with Kemble, 1851, 751. McDougal, Gov., menti<m of, 760. McDougal, J., duel witli Russell, 1852, 756. McEldery, affrav with Modocs, 1872, 470. McFarland co., suit of the, 641-2. McGowan, E., stories of, 602-4. McKay, J)., campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 492-3, 547. McKibbin, J., Broderick's second, 771. McKune, affray with Judge Wilson, 1852, 640. McNabb, J., mention of, 779. McNamara, Capt., J., camjiaign in the lava beds, 1872-3, 494. Meiggs, H., defalcation, etc., of, 1854, 287-90. INDEX. Meacham, Snperintendeilt, negotia- tions of, 420-1; treatment of In- dians, 452; policy of, 467-8; at Ft Klamath, 1870, 457; conferetio* with Capt. Jack, 1871, 459 60; correapond. of, 1871-3, 4fiO-4, 630- 2; relieved, 1872, 464; chairman of peace commission, 1873, 607; in- structions to, 526' disgust of, 627-8; taterview with Capt. Jack, 635-6; conference with Modocs, 538-42; attempted assass. of, 643. MendennaJ), Capt J., mention of, 654. Menxies, R., duel with Benaon, 1854, 759. Miller, H. F., mention of, 460; death of, 476. Miller, Lieut, campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 494-5, 548-9. Mills, Capt C. S., mention of, 486. Miners, characteristics, etc., of, 247- 69, 364-6, 381-95; fortune and mis- fortunes, 383-4; stories of, 385-94. Mining, descript. of, 228-30; diacrimi- natiou against foreigners, 2.32-6; regulations and disputes, 2.%-47; camps, 381-2, 394; stories, 385-94, 807-y, 815-17. Mo<loc8, name, 446; treaty with, 1864, 44(V-50; raids of, 1863, 447; 1870-2, 435-82; removed to reser- vation, 450-1; treatment of, 451-2; aflfray with, 1872, 470-3; campaign of the lava beds, 1872-3, 488-504; 647-57; the peace commiss., 505-42; massacred i)y, 542-6; surrender and disposal of, 557-9. Mokelumne river, duelling on the, 1851, 750-1. Money making, remarks on, 302. Montana, penitentiary frf, 431-2. Monterey, descript. of, 222. Montour, duel with PiUet, 1813, 745. Monte, descript o^ 711. Moore, H. de W., the Modoc out- break, 1872, 488. Moore, Lieut, campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 494. Morgan, A., mining claim of, 237-40. Mormon island, Indians at, 1848, 438-41. Morrison, J., duel with Leggett, 1852, 752. Mountains of Cal., descript. of, 2-16. Mulligan, W., mention of, 759; duel with Coleman, 1864, 778. Murchison, Sir R., remarks of, 47. MHri)hy, J. C, trial, etc. of, 629. Murphy, camp of, 441. Murray, B., letter of, 646-7. Murray, Judge, H. C, ch{>racter, et<r. of, 605-7. N Negro alley, (Los Angelee) descripi;. of, 1871, 563-3. Nevada city, justice at, 1852, 626-7; duelling at, 1861, 751-2. Newell, S. T., kiUing of, 774. NezPerces, trouble with, 1873, 528. Nicaragua, Lake, descript of, 201-2. Nicaragua route, descript of tlic, 198- 202. Nieto, S., mention of, 748. Niles, Justice J., administ, etc. of, 640-3. 'North America,' wreck of the, 21^ 14. Northrup, M. V., duel with Evans, 1877, 784. Nugent, J., duels of, 1852, 754-6. Oak grove, duelling at, 1852, 755-6; 1854, 758. Oakland, disturbance in, 185.'), 408. O'Brien, J., affray with Hanley, 1877, 783. Odeneal, L. B., Ind. superintendent, 1872, 464-70; peace commissioner, 1873, 510. Ohio Diggings, search for the, 231-2, Old Kent.U(^ Co., suit against the, 641-2. Oregon, prisons of, 4.30-1 ; the Modoc war, 446-50. Oroville, rioters tried at, 1877, 577-9. Otis, Major, the Modoc troubles, 1872, 464-9. Pacific Mail Co., origin of, 125, opera- tions, 125-6. Pack-trains, descript. of, 331-2. Palomares, F., narr. of, 747-8. Panama bay, descript. of, 184-5. Panamd city, hist, sketch of, 158-9; descript. of, 1852, 179-^7. Panamli, Isthmus, descript. of, 155- 88; travel across, 1852, 156-77; population, 183; climate, 184. Park bar, mining dispute at, 1851, 246-7. Park. T. W., duel with Brazer, 1854, 760. Parker, R., story of, 348. INDEX. 825 Parsons, G. F., the gold dUcov., 72-3. Pattie, J. O., explorations of, 1832, 9(>-l. Pawnbroking, descript. of, 324-6. Peace comnussion, appointment, etc. of, 1873, 605-11; negotiations, SH- IS; report of, 517-19; conference with Modoca, 538-42; commiss. massacred, 542-6. Peachy, A. V., duel of, 1852, 762. Pearl islands, descript. of, 185. Pearson, H., mention of, 406. Pefla Corpiiral, mention of, 747-8. Perley, D. W., quarrel with Broder- ick, 705-6. Perry, Capt., the Modoc outbreak, 1872, 485-^; campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 490-503, 5-(8, 553; Capt Jack surrenders to, •S, Pettigrove, S., story of, 785-7. Phyiiician», fees of, 1850, 351. Pickett, E. £., statements of, 50, 55; story of, 365-7; trial of, 1848, 608-9. Piercy, C. W., duel with Showalter, 1861, 776. Pile-<lriving, descript. of, 1849, 264-5. Pillet, duel with Montour, 1813, 745. Pitcher, W., duel with Hunter, 782. Pizarro, H., mention of, 744-6. Pollock, Capt., at Ft Klamath, 1873, 534. Post office (San Francisco) descript. of, 1851, 278-9. Pojtal delivery, descript. of, 272-4. Potter, E. W., mention of, 448. Powers, J., squatter disturbance of, 185.3, 411. Prices, extravagance of, 1849-50, .>i7-51. Prisons, San Quentin, 413~26; the 'Euphemia,' 415; management of, 417-22; Carson, 426-30; Salem, 430-1; Sttilacoom, 431; Boise c^m.'y, 431; Deer Lodge, 431-4; of Al.ska, 434; of Utah, 434; of Arizona, 434-5. Pnifanity, prevalence cif, 319-20. Prudon, story of, 789-93. R Raleigh, Sir W., exped's, etc., of, 1595, 1017, 226-7. liandoli)!), mention of, 700. Raoussel-Boulbou, Cmiite de, men- tion of, 758. Raymond, duel with Tucker, 749. Ream, Lieut, campaign at the lava beds, 1872-3, 503-4. Reed, J. F., the Donner tragedy, 93- 105. Restaurants, descript. of, 349-50. Reynolds, W. , mention of, 407. Rich Bar, stories of, 662, 727-33. Richards, M., duel with Chaviteaux, 1854, 758. Richard, 8. R., prison inspector, 1854 434. Ricord', story of, 1849, 815-17. Riddle, T., warning of, 525; inter- preter to peace commiss., etc., 1873, 537-40; escape of, 54.S. Riley, C. VV., saloon keeper and iudge, 622-3. Riley, Gen., mention of, 415. Roberts, E., the Chico riots, 1877, 67»-6; trial, etc., of, 578-9. Roberts, Lieut G., wouiuled at the lava beds, 1873, 501 Robinson, Dr, the squatter riots, 1849-50, 410. Rockwood, A. P., prison inspector, 1854, 4.34. Rogers, Judge, story of, 6r)6. Rogue river valley, Indian raid in, 1855, '45-6. Romles, P., the Chico riots, 1877, 672. Rondo, descript. of, 701-2. Roseborougli, peace coiumissioner, 1873,512-13; interview with (apt. Jack, 5.35-0; with Boston Charley, 530. Roos, C. L., stf^-y of, .?45 fi. Ross, Gen. J. K., the Modoc war, 1872-3, 486-95. 500. Rough and Ready, camp, story of, 7J»-9. Rowe, E., duel with May, 18.'i.3, 7.". Rnelle, J. R., story of, .Vi. Russell, A. C, duel with Folsom, 1851, 751. Russell, T., mention of, 747 Russell, duel with McDougal, '.^S, 7.'0. Rust, duel with Stidgcr, IS").'!, 7.")7. Rutlantl, .T. P. quarrel with Thomas, etc., 1854, 757-8. Ryer, W. M., duel with Langdon, '.")7, 761-2. Sacramento squatter riot, IS.TO, 408- 10; justice at, 1856, 623; affray at, 1852, 640; gambling incidents, 1850, 722; cliolora at, 1850, 75)0-2. Snfford, C, duel with Fouke, '65, 770. Safford, Judge, trial uf Chico rioturs, I 1877, 579. R'Jll INDEX. f^ali'iu prison, dcscript. of, 4.T0-1. tSaliHins, (iuMuript. of, 074-8. San Anilreiw, justice at, 1S77, 044-5; dwelling near, \Sii',), 775-0. San Antonio, dwelling at, 1853, 750- 7. •San Bias, dcscript. of, 215. San Diego, descript. of, 1852, 217; stfirni at, 184'.(, 'J17-21; justice at, 1840, (ii:{; duelling lined at, 1830- 41, 740-7. San Francisco, l>a)' of, 21-3; Imild- ings and streets of, 1841), 200-5, 281-2, 280 7; j)ile-<lriving in, '2CA- 5; character ot population, 20.V0; tlie drama, 207-0; arrival of steam- ers, 270- 2; pust<al delivery, 272-4; steamer-day, 275-0; post-otlice, 278-0; poverty in. 1852-3, 283; liuU-ligliting, 283-5; promenades, 28."); cemeteries, 200-1; homes, 2i)l- 2; climate, 202; the new city, 202- 3; society, 21>4-314; pawnhroking, 324 -(i; commerce, ."ill.")-. 58; stock - broking, 330-7; strikes, 330-40; coinage, 340-1 ; hanks and husincss failures, 341, 'M4; auctions, 'M6-7, 3.")0 1, 3.")8-0; prices, 347 51; hu.si- ness depression in, 1851-5, 3.jO-7; sijuattt-r trouhlcs, etc. in, .30(>-407; prisons, 415; law-courts, 500, 023- 0, 0:V.) 40; grand jurv, 1850. 000-1; gaiiihling ni, 007-727; duelling, lS.-.lliO, 740-83. Tvin Isidro, alleged gold discov. near, 40. Sail .Tose, jtistico at, O-^O; ftoscolo's imtragtN, etc. at, 747-8. Sin .I'lau del Norte, dcscript. of, 109. San (j'uentin, name, 413; under Spanish rejiime, 414-15; statc- pvisou huiltat, 410; contracts, etc., 410-17; site, 41S; ImiMmgs. 418- 10; treatnu'ut of prisoners, 410-22; e<cap(M from, 42.5-0; atiray at, 1S77. 783 4. San Uafael. disturbance near, 407; town of surveyed, 407; duelling near, 1801, 77f). Sanilils, l)r, explorations of, 51-2. Santa liarhara, duelling at, 1825, 740. Santa Craz, justice at, 052-5. Sivila, Count, 'Nouvelles Annates,' :t.-) (i. ' .'"■(•aiface, Thiof,' campaign at the iiiva IkmIs. 1872-3, 402; surrender of, .5,58. Scenery. (Cal.) dcscript. of, 2-24. Schira, Mrs, uarr. of, 474-5, Schira, N., killed by Mndocs, 1872. 474-5. Sconchin, Chief, raids of 18C3, 447; at Modoc point, 451-4; the Modoc outbreak, 1872, 400, 478-81, 487; the peace commission, 511, 514-15; message to Canby, 621-2; mediation of, 520; insolence uf, 541; execu- tion of, 558. Schroedcr, J., killed by Modocs, 1872, 470. Scott, l)r, mention of, 708. Scott, W. H., duel with Smith, 1853, 757. Scott bar, election at, 1851, 051. Settlers, definition of word, .396-7; contrasted with .scpiatters, 307. Sheldon, mining dispute, etc. of, 246. Shelvocke, G., voyage, etc. of, 1710- 22, 20.30. Shephard, P. W., mention of, 772. Sherman, (ien., the Modoc war, 1872-3, 505-0; correspond with Canby, 510-17, 520 7. Sherwood, Lieut, ileath of, .544-5. Sliillabcr, T., menti(m of, 403. Shillingow, A., killed by Modocs, 1872, 477. Shoalwatcr bay, justice at, 0.35 8. Showalter, D., duel with rierry, 1801, 770. Silva, Capt., ("!. M. C, the Mount; outlircak, 1872, 488. Silv.as, N., mention of, 748. Sinnnons, W., judge at .Scott Bar, etc., 1821, 051. Simpson, 11. I., story of, 4.38-41. Sinclair, story of, 385-0. Siskiyou county, petition from, 1869, 4.50. Slanglitcr, C., the Chico riots, 1877, 57'i-O; iirrcst, etc, r)f, 577-9. Slavery, question of, 3(»5. Shiat, L. \V., prediction of, 54. Smith, C. T., story of, 801-4. Smith, (>., story of, 71-2. Smith, 11., menlinn of, 774. .Smitli, il., gold vliscov'd by, 39. Smith, .1. v., duel with Broderick, 1852, 752 3. Smith, v., duel with Scott, 18,5.3, 7.57. Smith, explorations of, 00. Society, dcscript. of, 2tU-314, 301-80. Sonuirs, C, duel with Lewis, 1853, 7.57. Sonoma, justice at, 627. Sonora, JH.stice at, 1851,6.30-3; duel- ling at, 18.52, 753; 18.59, 770. Soto, M., duel with Borondo, 1825, 4U7. INDEX. 827 (Spanish Ainorica, duolliiig in, 744-5. Sparks, Dr, story of, 351. Spokane, Furt, tlueilingat, 1814, 745. tSpi-agiiu, T., atatenicnt of, 39. Springer, T. A., mention of, 62S). Sipiatterisin, name, 3*JG; descript and oviU of, 397-412. Sipiatterii, name, 39G 7; contrasted witlj settlers, 307; greuil of, 397 -S; power of, 401-2; riots, etc., 402-12. St Helena, Mount, descript. of, 16. St^iging, descript. of, 327-31. Stainlirook, T., the Chico riots, 1877, r)75-<>; trial of, 579. Stanley, E., dnel with Inge, 1851, 7.")0. Steamer day, descript. of, 275-4). Steele, K., mention of, 443; Ind. Hi4)erinteiident, 18(53, 447; treaty with Indians, IS(U, 44S-50. Steele, negotiations, etc., of, 1873, 512-15. Stt'ilacoom, prison, mention of, 431. Stevens, K., exped. of, .VJ. St(!vens, K. 1'., the I^tira 1). Fair trial, ()25. Stidgor, duel with Uust, 18.").3, 757. Stuekltroking, ileseript. of, 3.'U>-7. Stuck ganililing, evils, etc., of, 086, (I'.i'J 5. Stockton, electi(m, etc., at, 1849, ti09 10; gambling incident at, 18.")0, 717-18; duelling at, 1S.54, 7G(). Stoddard, \V. 1'., mention of, 774-5. Stone, story of, 720. Slii(kl;inil, E. A., attempted escape of. 421). Strikes, descript. of, 339-40. Suis\in, sipiatter trouMe near, 18152, 412. 'Sunday l)isi>atch,' letter in, 1851, 279-81. Sunset, trojiical, descri})t. of, 203-5. Sui'prise valley, protection of, 1873, .■)(»."> SiUti'r, (Jen. .T. A., the gold discov., (19 7(5, 84; sipiatter trouMes of, |S,")((, -108; I'xpcrience with Indians, etc., 4H 2. Sutter's fort, justice at, 1848, 007-9. Taylor, ('., story of, 3.'");i-5. Terry, D. S., duel witii Hroderick, etc., 7t)3-72; trial, etc., of, 772-4. Thellar, Lieut, campaign at the lava heds, 1872 3, 517, 5.-)0. Thik'l, tUu Chiuu riots, 580. Thomas, Rev. E., )>oacn commissioner, 1873, 528; indiscretion of, 5.S7; conference with. Mmlocs, 5;i8-42; death of, 542 3. Thonia«, Major, campaign at tlie lava hods, 1872-3, 549 .50; .5.54-7. Thomas, I*. W., duel with Dickson, 18.54, 758. Tliompson, .1. H.. story of, 048. Thompson, W. F., gold discovM hy, 1839, 4.5. Tlirockmorton, Major, mention of, .509; camjiaign at the lava heds, 1882 .3, 548. Toi)in& Duncan, auction rooms, etc., of, 18.52-3, 3.50-7. Tohy, E., duel with (.'rane, 18.53, 757. Tracy, outr.age upon, 411-12. Travel, descript. of, 32(5-31. Truckec, justice at, 051-2. True, B., the Chico riots, 1877, 573. 'J'ruett, E., mentiim of, 772. Tucker, duel with liaymond, 18.50, 749. Tule lake, Ind. outrages near, 1S72, 473 7. Turk, F., story of. .597-8. Tuthill, F., remark <.f, 47. U Usury laws, remarks on, 34.3-4. UtJih penitentiary, lucution of, 4.34. Vail, O. C, alcalde of Yreka, 1851, (5.50 1. N'allejo, justice at, 722 .3. Vallcjo, (leu. M. (J., ' Historia de C'alifornia,' 38; pri.son contract of, 1852, 415. Van Hutten, exped. of, 1.541-5. ."Jt.. Vaughn, ("aj)t. (J., voyage of, 1719, m. Vel.asco, duel witli Police de Leon, 744. Veiialih', .1. W., journey to Cal., 1849. 191 2. Vcr .Mclir, I M', niciition of, 2(>~ Viuder, I'adre, pi'cild'lions of, 40. Virginia city, diU'lling, etc. at, 18(55, 779 82. Vi/.casiio, S., voyage, etc. of, 27-8. Voorliics, \V. \',in, address of, 1853, 2li3 4. Wadswordi, C. L,, alcalde, etc., 1849, 009-10. 828 INDEX. Wadsworth, Dr, mention of, 798. Wa|5oner, Mrs, death of, 185fi, 445-6. Waiuwright, J. E., Beideman's chal- lenge to, 1854, 761. Walker, duel with Graham, 1851, 749-50. Wall, J., story of «4ft-7. War, remarks on, 737-42. Warner, Camp, force at, 1870, 454. WashUurn, Editor, duel with Wash- ington, i854, 760. Washington, (Cal.) justice at, 1850, 616-21. Wanhingt<in, Editor, duel with Wash- Imrn, 1854, 760. Washington territory, convicts of. 431. Water-lots, appropriation, etc. of, 405-7. Watson, mention of, 760. Wealth, pursuit of in Cal., 316-18. Wethered, duel with Winter, 1852. 753. Wijeaton, Col. F., supersedes Otih, 1872, 469: oorrosponcf. with Canhy, 470: the M.-doc war, I872-.3, 484-5, 488, 490-504; superseded, 50<}. Wheeler, W. F., mention of, 432-4. V53. Whittle, R., the peace oommisiion, 1873,611-12. ^^ ^ Widney, R. M., mention of, 639. Wiener, Mrs, the gold discov., 74-6. Wilbur, J. H., peace commissioner. 1873, 510. ' Wilder, M., story of, 786-7. Wilson, J. B., duel with Beane, 1870, 783. Wilson, Judge, affray with McKeune, 1852, 640. Winter, duel with Wctherefl, 1852, Woman, sphere of in Cal., 305-54. Woodlief, D. .1., duel with Keweii, etc., 1874, 760 1. WmMiruff, W., prison insjiector, 1854, Wright, G. J., duel with Baird. 18r)3, 7r)6. SVright, H. C, the Chico riots, 1877, 570-6; arrest, etc. of, 577-9. Wyeth, Capt., expeds, etc. of, 91. Y Yolo county, justice in, 629. Yreka, justice at, 1851, 650-1. Yosemite valley, dewcript. of, 6-13, Yu«aft Jail, mention of, 434-5.