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VOYAGES AND TW^

TARIOUS PARTS OP THE WORLD,

BURIN*-

THE YEARS 1803, 1804, 1805, 1806, AND 1807-

G. H. VON LANGSDORFF,

ACLIO GOUmStLOB TO St* MAJESTY TMSSMrttOR OV ECSIIA,

eONSOt-OEHBBAL AT TUX BHAZIU, KHIOHT OI THE OBDIB OV ST. ANNE| AND MllfBEB OV

TABIOCS AOAOZXIBa AND ISABNED lOCItnEt.

Illustrated htf Engratings from Original Drateings.

,*'*'-

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR HBNRT COLBURN,

ENaUSH AND rOREIGN FUBUC LIBRARY, CONDUIT-STREET) HANOTBR'SaUABE;

AND 1010 BY GEOROE COLDIE, EDINBUBQH J ANS

JOHN CUHHINO, DUBtlN.

1813.

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U. C'LAKKE, PiiBter, Well-Stmt, Luoduu.

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©EBICATIOK.

HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY ALEXANDER THE FIRST.

,•1 ,1;';>\: ■''■6 <"''^ ■/ '

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Mo^T Gracious Emperor,

The first Voyage of the Russians ^
round the Woi*ld is one of the most remarkable events
in the annals of your Imperial Majesty's glorious
reign, and every contribution towards a more en-
larged knowledge of this great undertaking may rea-
sonably expect to excite the interest of all civilized
nations. *

The observations which. I had the opportunity of
collecting, as the fortunate companion of the first
Russian circumnavigator, have the most complete
claim to attention conferred upon them by the per-

fi. ',:%

IV DEDlCATiaN.

mission given me to place at the head of them the
very illustrious tiame of your Imperial Majesty, and
to publish, in conjunction with my feeble eflforts, this
new instance of your gracious condescension.

May it please your Imperial Majesty to accept this
offering as a trifling token of unbounded gratitude
and veneration, and of the sincerity with which I
shall remain till death,

Most gracious Emperor,
Your Imperial Majesty's
Truly devoted

And obedient servant and subject,

*". ■.

G. H. VON LANGSDORFF.

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■■■is

INTRODUCTION.

■>-■< *

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. M '•

. >'

It may perhaps by many people be considered as presump-
tuous in me to lay before the public my observations during
our very interesting voyage round the world, when they are
already in possession of an account of this expedition from the
hands of its illustrious chief himself. I have only to answer,
that my principal excuse for the present undertaking is, that
my attention as a physician and naturalist was necessarily
directed to rfifFerent objects from those by which he was prin-
ci(>ally occupied. Besides, as I quitted the expedition at
Kamschatka in the year ll>' j'. and consequently in the farther
progress of my travels took a very different course from that
pursued by Captain Krusensterh, as I visited the Aleutian Isles
and the north-west coast of America, and at length returned
over land through Siberia to the Russian capital, all this part
of my work will be wholly distinct from any thing which appears
in his. . '• -^

v-i ■<■-■

a '9,

Every observer has his own particular point of view, in which
he contemplates and judges new objects ; his own sphere, within
which he endeavours to bring whatever excites his curiosity ;
many things may therefore be noticed in my work which were

tl iJlTnODUCTION.

passed over by Captain Kruseiistern, and of others descriptions
may perhaps be given different from what are to be found in
his universally esteemed and excellent work.

It could never be my intention to compile a nautical account
of our expedition, to concern myself with the plan of the
voyage -and the political and commercial views connected with
it, or to enter into details concerning the appointment of the
officers and fitting out the ships. All these things are so
amply treated by our chief, that any thing said by me must be
wholly superfluous. JNIy endeavours have, therefore, been
directed to describing the objects which more particularly in«
terested me, such as the manners and customs of the different
nations we visited, Xheir modes of living, and the productions
of the countries, combining with them a historical sketch of
our route. I have wished, in short, to compile a popular
narrative, such as I may reasonably hope will be in many
respects new, and in all acceptable to the learned world. How
fer these objects may be obtained remains for the public voice
to determine. • .,..-,. ,., .....

A strict adherence to truth ought not to be merely a matter
of preference ; it ought to be considered as a sacred duty by
every traveller who undertakes to give the history of his adven-
tures to the world. Nor has he any occasion to have recourse
to poetical flourishes, or the detail of marvels, embellished by
Si lively imagination, to render his work interesting ; he is daily
presented with so many things really remarkable, and highly-
worthy of attention, that his only difficulty is to restrain him-
self so far in relating mere facts, that his \york may not ex-
ceed all reasonable bounds.

^.t*.

INTRODUCTION.

As I do not think that scientific descriptions of plants,
animals, and other objects of Natural Histoiy, belong to a
book which has a view to general purposes, and is intended for
readers of all descriptions, I have separated them from the
body of the work, and intend publishing them, subsequently,
distinct from the rest. I have, however, made a sort of begin-
ning with the botanical part, since the knowledge of plants is
in these days the branch of Natural History which interests
the most universally. Essays towards the knowledge of insects,
fish, birds, &c. shall follow by degrees, as time and means will
permit "

I.-.-S!

■•»*»»

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i vM.;

To make travelling useful, a particular strength and turn of
mind is requisite, which can only be acquired by beginning to
travel early in life. It was my good fortune to have prepared
myself by several minor journies for the great one which I at
length undertook. After I liad obtained the degree of Doctor in
Medicine and Surgery, at Gottingen, in 1797, I accompanied
Prince Christian of Waldeck to Lisbon, who went thither as
General of the Portuguese army.

Even in my early years I had been much fascinated with the
study of Natural History : Blumenbach's Lessons decided my
attachment to this science, and Portugal opened a wide field i»
satisfy my *desire of knowledge. My occupation of Surgeon
did not interfere with my inclination to this favourite branch
of study ; and I received from the Prince, who was himself
a man of learning, and a friend to science and knowledge, all
possible support and encouragement. In the spring of 1798, I
accompanied him on a military tour through several provinces

■*<'.).

viii

INTRODUCTION.

of Portugal ; but alas ! he did not long survive it : he died the
following year of a dropsy in the chest, which had come on
after the loss of his arm.

By the advice of the then Portuguese minister, Louis Pinto
de Souza Coutinho, I determined rather to comme4ice practice
as a physician in the fine climate, and among the social circle
of amiable and polished men, whom I found in Lisbon, than to
return back to my own country. I soon acquired so extensive
an acquaintance in many German, English, and Pc:'tuguese
houses, and was honoured by them with so much confidence in
my professional capacity, that I had very little time left to
devote to my favourite studies, and examine the many new and
unknown productions of nature with which I was presented.
This induced me to accept the offer of being appointed Surgeon-
Major to the English auxiliary troops then resident in Por-
tugal, that is to say, the regiment of Castries ; because, having
a sufRcient salary, I could devote my leisure hours entirely to
my favourite pursuit. I accompanied this body in the cam-
paign of 1801 against the Spaniards ; but as we were dismissed
in the following year, at the conclusion of the peace of Amiens,
and sent over to England, I availed myself of this oppor-
tunity to visit London and Paris, on my return into Germany
in 1803.

In the meantime I had sent my collection of Natural His-
tory, which was tolerably ample, from Lisbon by Hamburgh
to Gottingen, having the intention, when settled at the latter
place, to prepare an account of my travels in Portugal for
the pres».

VKTRQ^KC?(OIf.

The friendship shewn me by the f\ni t^aturalistt of Fraiy:e,
Messrs'. Ilauy, Olivier, Bosc tl'A^tiq^e, LAtreUle, Geoffroiy,
Brognart, and Duoieril, and the bonoMrs conferred upon ma
nearly about the same time by the Imperial Academy o(
Sciences at St. Petersburgh. io na^ning pie their correspoiv-
dent— all these things gave n^e sq much encourageipent, that ai|
ardent wish was excited iu my bosoiHi on my return to Got-
tingen, to undertake somft great jouniey, entirely with a vieif
to extending ray knowledge of |)I^^tural History* A paore fi^-
vourable opportunity for this purpose than accompanying i\\9
first Russian circumnavigator could never have been presented

tQ me.

■ uA'i

|V(

.|..l.

As Correspondent of the Academy, I thought myself to %
considerable degree justified in requef>ting their support for the
advancement of my project, and I therefore by letter m<^4e known
my wishes to that body. But although the Counsellor of St^te
and Knight Von Kit^fft*, and the Collegial Counsellor and
Knight Von Adelung, both did all in their power to sup-
port my application, I received a letter at Qottingen, on the
eighteenth of August, 1803, regretting that my wishes h^d not
been sooner known, as the time would not now permit their
being complied with. The two ships, the Nadeschda and Neva,
I was informed, were to sail with the first fair wind, and were
not tq stop for above a week at Copenhagen. Dr. Tilesius
was, besides, already appointed Naturalist to the £xpedition>
which he was expected to join at Elsinore, and I should pro-
t^ably not like to undertake a journey thither upon an uncer-
tainty, and at my own expence : nothing satisfoctory, thjecej^se,
could be promised me with regard to my request*

V b

X INTRODUCtlON.

I yrsis not, however, the less eager in my wishes, and was
determined not to abandon my project till convinced of the
impossibility of its being executed. My resolution was imme-
diately taken, and without loss of time I set out the very same
day. On the twenty-first of August, in the morning, I arrived
at Lubeck, and found at Travemunde a ship ready to sail fpr
Copenhagen, in which I embarked. We weighed anchor in
the night between the twenty-second and twenty-third, and
having a favourable wind, reached the Danish capital early in
the morning of the twenty-fourth.

i • - 1

I went immediately to the Hotel of the Sieur Rau, where, to
my infinite satisfaction and delight, I found most of the officers
belonging to the Russian expedition had taken up their quar-
ters. This circumstance inspired me with new courage, as it
seemed a happy omen ; and the result did not deceive my expec--
tations. I entreated so earnestly of the Chamberlain Von Re-
sanoff, who was going with the expedition in quality of Ambas-
sador to Japan, to be received as a sharer in the voyage, that
at length, as my petition was ijupported by the excellent Cap-
tain Von Krusenstern, the proper chief of the expedition, I had
the happiness of finding it granted.

To this amiable man, and scientific navigator, whose well-
known services are far above my praise, I must therefore be
permitted here publicly to make my grateful acknowledgments,
confessing that I am principally indebted to his friendship and
support for all the gratification I received in the travels I am
about to record.

INTRODUCTIOIf.

Not less thanks are thie to my friend and travelling com-
panion, Counsellor Tilesius, who unites to the most extensive
scientific knowledge exquisite taste in the fine arts, for the
many sketches with which he has already favoured me, and for
the many more promised by him to enrich and embellish the
Second Part of my Travels. To him, and not to the draughts-
man of the expedition, we are indebted for the historical plates
in the Atlas to Captain Krusenstern's work. He has, besides,
in his possession a large collection of sketcJies of objects of Na-
tural History, which he purposes by degrees to complete, and
present to the public.

In what concerns the geography of Japan, and the language
of the inhabitants of Tschoka, I have availed myself very much
of the valuable observations of Counsellor Julius Von Klaproth.
This learned friend and colleague was so obliging as to furnish
me with several interesting notices which he had collected from
Japanese maps and geographical works. To the goodness of
that ingenious artist, the Sieur Alexander Orloffsky, I am in-*
debted for the portrait of the Frenchman Jean Baptiste Cabri,
and some other engravings. To all and each of these excellent
men I beg thus publicly to return my grateful thanks for their
kindness and friendly assistance.

G. H. VON lANGSDORFF.

St. Petersburghy
Jufu, 1811.

JEnnATA.

Fiige M, line 21, for 18' 4i* read 18" 46'.

100, 6, dele the period.

""» '4. for AlauHan read Meutian.

•"» 4, dele «o fflucA.

160, . 2, from (he bottom, for ocea$iomt read oecashn,

W8. 3, dele (he semicolon.

*" » 3, from (be bo((om, after ««/( odd a comma.

EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES,

Plate I.
The Frontispiece. — Portrait of the Author.

Plate II.— Page 35.
A Brazilian Air.

Plate III.— Page 63.
Interior of a House in Brazil.

Two females are employed in leparating the seeds from the cotton with a very iroper.
feet machine : one of them is sitting on a low stool after the manner of the country. Be-
hind her is a water jar, and two Cuja with tubes'far sacking np liquids. Near the door
is a kind of net, which I found extremely useful in catching butterflies ; and close by it
a bow, from which not arrows, but balls^ are discharged. Near the windaur against the
wall hangs a fan. ' *

Plate IV.— Page 88.
View of the Island of Nukahiwa.

In the fore.ground is a canoe of these islanders. The dark naked rocks^ with the fin*
waterfalls, give this landscape a character peculiar to itself. The plate is engraved from
a drawing made by Mr. Orloifsky, after a sketch by Counsellor Tilesius.

Plate V,— Page 97.
Portrait of Jean Baptiste Cabriy a Frenchman ^ found on the Island
of Nukahiwa, and there become half savage. He is represented
as a S linger.

At our departure from Nukahiwa, Cabri was by accident obliged to leave the island.
He was afterwards left by us at Kamschatka, whence he travelled over land to St. Peters.

sir

KXPLANAl ION Of THE PLATES.

burg. The eitiai rdinary fa(c of thU man, nnd (he noTcl appearance of his tattooed bodj,
attracted the attention of every one. Both at Moscow and at St. Petersburg ho exhibited
upon the stago the dances of (he savnge", and wai considered by all the great people of
the country as a real curiosity. Although he has by degrees become reconciled to Euro-
pean customs, he still thinks with delight of the men whom he formerly killed and ex«
changed for swine, or perhaps eat. His dexterity in swimming, in which he is scarcely
excelled by the natives of Xukahiwa themseWes, has procured him the appointment of
teacher of swimming to the corps of marine cadets at Cronstadt, where he now Titcs. Ha
has almost forgotten (he language of Nukahiwa, and made an incredibly rapid progress in
the recovery of his native tongue. The story of his marriage with a princess of Nuka«
hiwa, and the detail of his exploits on that island, are now so intermixed with the new
ideas he has acquired in Europe, that any one who heard him relate them would bo dis.
posed to think himself listening to a second Munchausen.

This plate is from a drawing made and presented to roc by that ozccllont trtist and
amiable man Mr. Oiloffsky.

Plate VI.— Page 117.
A}i Inhabitant of the Island of Nukahiwa.

This and the following plate are intended principally to illustrate the obserrations la
the text upon the subject of tattooing. They arc both engraved from designs made upon
the spot, that the most accurate idea possible might bo given of so singular an art. The
portrait here delineated is of a man about thirty years of age, a period at which ths
figures formed by the punctures appear the most distinctly. In later years, one figure it
made over another, till the whole becomes confused, and the body assumes a Negro.likt
appearance, as may be observed in the stripe across the belly. Tbis man holds a fan in
one hand, and in the other a sort of club, the upper extremity of which is ornamented
with the hair of a slaughtered enemy.

Plate VII.— Page 119.

Back View of a younger Inhabitant of Nukahiwa, not yet

completely tattooed.

In one hand he carries, as a proof of his bravery, the sknll of an enemy he has killed,
and in the other a javelin or lance. In some places the principal figures are only sketched
out, in others they are completed. At the back of the head may be perceived, as in all
tltete islanders, two glands, which, as far as I know, have never been obwrred by any

EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES. «^

European, or by any anatomist. The head here, as in ihe preceding figure, H shaTed,
with the exception of a small spot aboTe each ear, where the long hair is tied up in suck
a manner as nearly to resemble horns.

■■-■■ Plate VIII.— Page I2f.

Representation of several of the Principal Figures used in tattooin
some of' them of their natural Size.

'g*

Erery figure has its distinotire name, and most of them are appropriated to a particular
part of the body.

Figures 1 and 2 are called Kake, and belong to the inside of the arm and (he ribs.
The principal figure always remains the same; the accessary ones arc, however, often
changed.

Figures 9, 4, 5, 12, 13, 14, are called EnatOy that is to say, men. These figures
are, perhaps, principally made when an enemy has been killed or eaten. Figures 5 and
13, by (he assistance of a little imagination, may be made into men with their arms
stretched out: at the lower end some side lines only are required, with a little squaring
at the sides, to conceive a man standing upon his legs.

Figures 6, 7, are cillcd JWAo.j)ta/a, or shark's teeth. Nihoi%& tooth: the shark is
properly ilfono, and they should therefore, it seems, rather be called Niho.tnono; but
perhaps Piata is a particular species of shark, the teeth of which arc the best for the in.
struments made by the islanders as substitutes for knives and laws. These simple figures,
as well as the following, No. 8, arc put sometimes in one place, sometimes in another,
merely to fill up a space, and are varied in many different ways.

Figure 8. Tezeehine.nau. This is a sign of wishing to be beloved. I would gladly know
whether it ever happened that a young Nukahiwan had himself tattooed all over in this
way from inclination for a young woman : sentimental love is surely unknown to these
people.

Figure 9. Matta-Comoe. — Malta, the eye. As this figure seems to represent a man's
head, and is often combined with the Enala, I presume that both may be a favourite dis.
tinctlon of a hero. They are punctured principally upon the breast, thighs, and back, as
may be seen in Plates 5 and 6.

Figures 10, 11. Kake.opogo, Marks which go directly over the eye, or upon the
arms, thighs, and breast. They are commonly made upon occasion of a great banquet
or slaughter of swine.

Figure 15. Tumu-iina. This figure belongs to the back of the hand, with trifling va.
riations : the beauty of it depends very much upon the taste and dexterity of the artist.

■vl

EXPLANATION OP THE PLlTEf.

Figure 18. Shona^ « tortoise. This is Introduced ai »a orRMiant between tte pii*.
cipal figures. For the Mme purpose liiards ^jA other aoimels are sometimet (Mtoeed;
which, however, furnish no proof of these people having made » great pvogteH ia the
art of drawing.

Figure 17. I could not learn any name for this figure : it is onlj to be seea in the in.
tide of the arm, and upon the thighs.

Figure 18. The hand of Queen Katanuah.

Figures 10, 20, il. Ornaments, concerning the names or meaning of which I could
never obtain any satisfactory explanation.

The names of several other figures, which maybe observed in plates S and C, and wMch
I have thought it superfluous here to particuUrize, arc, IVibu, a ring or bracelet. Matla*
toi-tot, a mark over the eye, as may be seen in the portrait uf Cabri : (his lie received
at a feast of swine*s flash. Umahoka^ a breast shield. Tuaheu and AeAn, broad stripee
over the breast, shoulders, arms, and belly : this is a very common sign of one of the
banqueting societies. MaUthmoit a broad stripe from the nose over the eye to tke ear*.

Plate IX.— Page 126.
View of an inhabited Valley at Xukahiwa.

In the fore.gronnd to the left is a tabooed cocoa.nut tree staked round, to the stem of
which cocoa>nuts are fastened from top to bottom ; they are disposed of in this way aa
a provision for a popular festival. On the next tree is an islander, climbing like an ape,
with his feet pressed against the stem ; he is going to gather the nuts. The representation
of the houses constructed upon platforms is intended to illustrate what is said upon the
•object in the pai(e to which the plate refers. Near the left-hand house is a covered pit,
which servesas a storehouse tor popotf or fermented bread.fruit.

Plate X.— Page 1«7.
Inside of a Hut at Nukahiwa.

A tattooer is seen seated, and exercising his art. A tabooed person is entarieg the door,
bringing a twine's head as a present to the artist.

Plate XI.— Page 166. /^<}c3^.

Song qf the Nativet <if Nukahiw0*

EXPLANATION OP THB PLATES.

.Mr

Plate XII.— Page 233.
A Landscape seen from the Harbour of Nangasaki.

We lay at anchor at a little distance from this charming creek, with a beautiful village
upon its shore. Sheltered on all sides, it served as an asylum to a great many boats and
little vessels in high winds, and often afforded us the view of many pleasing objects. In
the fore-ground is one of the barges of our guard of honour belonging to the Prince of
Fisi. The nearest hill behind this barge is called Lembon.

"if

Plate XIII.— Page 247.
A Japanese Fortress.

■ 1.

^-,v« J.

The fortress here represented was not far from a (emple on the left point of land near
the entrance of the inner harbour at Nangasalii. In the fore.ground is a pleasure boat
with ladies, come out of curiosity to see the Russian ship;

Plate XIV.— Page 305.

Landing of the Ambassador at Nangasaki on the Day of Audience ^
and Procession to the Governor's House.

In the foreground is the barge of the Prince of Fisi, surrounded by several vessels of
honour. Behind it are the stairs of Ochatto. Over the houses in the open place adjoin,
ing to them are the hangings of the Prince of Fisi. . Directly opposite to the stairs is the
civil guard, before which are various insignia of honour; on both sides are a number of
large lanterns. To the left, at a dfstance in the perspective, are stairs which lead to the
upper town, hung with the Imperial hangings, because the house to the righ^aud the stairs
arc Crown buildings.

The order of (he procession was as follows. First came forty persons of different
ranks, amon*; whom were several Banjos, each with an attendant. Next came six of tb«
Imperial soldieis, carrying long staves in their hands instead of muskets. These were fol.
lowed by the Norimon or chair, in which the ambassador was carried by four persons.
Immediately behind hirti marched aRussian soldier, carrying the Imperial Russian standard ;
then the five cavaliers of the embassy on foot, accompanied by a great number of civil
magistrates and interpreters. After them came a guard of sixteen or twenty soldiers, car.
rying staves instead of muskets, with an ;ofBccr on horseback : a multitude of inferior
oiKcers, interpreters, &c. closed the procession. A shower of rain had fallen jiut before,
and for this reason many persons are carrying umbrellas.

.1«iii

EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES.

riato XV.--Pagc282.
The Habitat ion of the Ambassador at Megasaki,

To (ho left, in (ho foreground, is a part of the warehouses for the presents. A water*
carrier just appears from behind them : he is coming into the court through the door on
(he land lide. Tu his left are the a|)artmciits of some of the officers, and next to them
the liitchen. In the centre are the ambassador's apartments, with the Russian guard of
honour in attendance at the principal entrance ; and to the right is the door of the court
towards (ho water : near (hat begins the high iiiclosure of bamboo.cancs. In the court
are a party of Japaneso officers with their attendahts. To the right are three people in
cunvursiitiun : in (he middle is a person saluting tome Japanese gentlemen, bowing hii
body, and placing tlie palms of his hniuis on his Icnees, according to the custom of the
country. On (he left-hand side stand sumc Great Men} behind one is a soldier carrying
nn ensign of honour. .V common servant is sitting humbly behind his master, holding in
his hand a pair of his master's straw shoes.

The greatest part of this plate is sketched I)y Major Von Friderici, to whom I am
greatly indebted for permission to hare an engraving from it.

Plate XV I. — Page 31 ().
Japanese in various Costumes.

The man before the houi'C door to the right is occupied in separating rice from the
husks, for which purpose he makes use of a large woodtn block, hollow within, which
is almost filled with t\m. In the centre of the hollow arc a number of rings of equal
sizes, fastened the one to the other, to ihusamc heighth with the rice. The man strikes
with a large hcary wooden hammer in the space made by the rings, and at erery stroke
several of the grains of rice fall into the spncc. The second figure is a woman with her
child, in the manner that children are carried by the poorer classes : she has in her hair
several long large pins as ornaments. The next is a Japanese lady with her fan ; her head,
dress is not unlike an ancient French one ; her hair is stifl'ened with pomatum, and she has
several gold and silver pins besides flowers stuck into it. Behind heris asorvant, who car-
ries the child of a rich person upon his shoulder. Children generally have their heads shaved,
and commonly wear a long red garment, or one ornamented with a great many flowers.
The red is considered as very wholesome for children. Next follows a poor labourer, who,
instead of an umbrella, has a large straw hat to shelter him from the rain, with a sort of
straw mantle, which is an effectual defence zgainst the weather. lie has, like all the
Japanese, his pouch for tobacco, and tobacco.pipc hanging at his girdle. Lastly, is «
mechanic, or citizen, in his winter dress. He has a cloth over his head to preserve it
from the cold : his pocket-book han;;s over the girdle to his under garment, as is the
fashion of the country : his fan, tobacco pouch and pipe, and ink-horn, are tucked
into his girdle.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
Voyage from Copenhagen to England. — Stay at Falmouth. — Voyage to
Ttneriffe. — Description of that Island and of the Peak. — Voyage to
Brazil. Page i

CHAPTER II.

Stay at Santa Catharina.'—The Town of Nossa Senhora do Desterro.

Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants.— Dance of the Negro Slaves.
'^Excursion to the Main Land. — Arts, Knowledge, and Public Insti-
tutions. — Manufactory of Train Oil.— Natural History.— Medical Ob-
servations 31

CHAPTER III.
Departure from Brazil. — Voyage round Cape Horn. — Easter Island. —
Arrival at Nukahiwa, one of the Washington Islands.— Impressions made
at the first Sight of the Island. — Visit from the Natives .... 77

CHAPTER IV.
Account of the Englishman Roberts, and the Frenchman Cabri.— Cursory
View of the Group called Washington's Islands. — Description of the
Island of Nukahiwa. — //* Situation, Climate, Productions, and Popu-
lation. — Particulars relative to the Inhabitants 9(J

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

Tattooing.— The Manner in which it is performed.—' The Homes tabooed
during the Tune. — Clothing of the Islanders. — Their Foo'l. — The Bread
Fruit. — Their Dwellings 116

CHAPTER Vr.
On the social Institutions among the People of Washington's Islands. — The
Chiifs, or Kings. — The Religion and Laws. — II i capitulation of Objects
tabooed, and of the Occasions on which they become so . . . .130

CHAPTER VH.
Continuation of the Manners and Customs of the People of Nuhahiwa. —
Their Anthropophagism. — Their Wars. — Marriages.— Births.^ Funeral
Ceremonies. —Magic. — Circumcision. — Dancing Festivals. — Music—
Running on Stilts. — Swimming. — Ornaments. — Household Uiensils.—-
Playthings. — Canoes. — Miscellaneous Observations . . . . ,139

CriAPTFR VI H.
Departure from Nuhahiwa. — Arrival at Owhyhee. — Remarks upon that
Island. — Reunion with the Neva. — Voyage toKamschatka. — Arrivaland
Stay there 178

CHAPTER IX.

Voyage to Japan. — Introduction to the Embassy thither. — Departure from
Kamschatka. — Occurrences during the Vuyuge. — Festival of the Corona-
tion. — Frightful Hurricane. ~ Airioid at Jupun 203

CHVPTKR X.

Stay at Japan. — Occurrences in the Road before the Harbour of Nangasaki.

-—Aiwhorin^-Place before the Papen Mountain. — Vhau<>e of the An-.

cIv.tring-Place. — Occurrences therefrom the Eighth to the Seventeenth of

October 223

CONTENTS.

JEii

CHAPTKR XI.

Road behind the Papen Mountain.-^Occurrences therefrom the Seventeenth

of October to the Ninth of November. — Anchoring. Place before the Im-

periul Guard House, and Negociations there. — Departure from the /In-

choring-Place, and Enlranc* into Megasaki S4.8

CHAPTER XII.
Stay at Megamki.^-Descrifition of the Habitation there.— Permission given
for the Ship to be carried into the Harbour. — One of the Japanese at-
tempts to cut his Throat. — A Balloon sent up, and the Alarm occasioned
by it.— 'Illness of the Ambassador 383

CHAPTER XIII.
Recapitulation of what had passed at Nangasaki. — The Arrival of the
Great Man /row Jedo announced to the Ambassador. — Discussiom
concerning the Manner in which the Ambassador was to be received. —
His ^first Audience of Ceremony. — His second Audience fof Business.—
Hit third Audience to take Leave 399

CHAPTER XIV.

Departure from Japan.— Voyage from thence to Kamschatka. — Cape and
Straits of Sangaar.— Description of the West and North-West Coasts of
Matmai, or Jesso. — Stay in Aniwa Bay. —'Description of the same, with
the South-East Coast ofSachalin, or Tschoka. — Departure from Tschoka^
and Arrival in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul . . . 317

Vocabulary of the Language of Nukahiwa

349

Specimens of the Languages' spoken among different Tribes of the Ainu;
those who ihhabit the southern Part of Kamschatka, the Kurile Islands^
the northern Coast of Jesso, the southern Part of Tschoka, and the north'
east Point of Tschoka . « ^ j9

PART J,

VOYAGE FROM COPENHAGEN

BRAZIL, THE SOUTH SEA, KAMSCHATKA,

AMD

JAPAN,

III,

i;i

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.

CHAPTER I,

Voyage from Copenhagen to England. — Stay at Falmouth.^^Voyage to
Teneriffe. — Description of that Island, and of the Peak.^-Voyage to
Brazil,

Although our anchor was weighed at Copenhagen on the
eighth of September, 1803, we were still obliged, on account
of contrary winds, to delay our departure for some days,
and could not leave Eisinore till the fifteenth. In the night
between the eighteenth and nineteenth a violent storm arose>
which occasioned great sickness among those of our passengers
who were unused to the sea ; of this number were the cava-
liers belonging to the ambassador's train. The ship rolled
terribly, and it was impossible to think of having any thing
cooked in the kitchen. The roaring of the wind, the raging
of the sea, the hurrying to and fro among the sailors, the
elbowing, the jostling, the crying out, altogether furnished
a scene entirely new to most of our company. In the
evening of the nineteenth, the attention of every body was

VOYAGE FROM COPENHAGEN TO EiNGLAND.

particularly attracted by an uncommonly fine aurora^borcalis.
From the horizon in the north-north-west streams of light
rose like pillars of fire, wearing sometimes a deeper, sometimes
a paler appearance : ascending quite to the zenith like demi-
arches, they gradually grew paler and paler, till they were at
length entirely lost in the atmosphere.

The weather continued very variable, sometimes stormy^
sometimes calm, sometimes fair, sometimes rainy, till early
in the morning of the twenty-eighth, when we arrived off
Falmouth. Here our commander. Captain Von Krusenstern,
determined to stop, in order to take in an additional stock
of provisions, and to furnish himself with some instruments
and other things of which he stood in need. This port, which
stands upon the south-western promontory of England, has
an exceedingly good harbour: it is defended on one side by
a castle, and on the other by a small fort. With regard ta
the situation and anchorage, it is considered as one of the best
ports in England. The town is small and insignificant. All
the packets for Portugal, and for the East and West Indies,
sail from lience. This constant intercourse of packets sailing
and returning, in conjunction with the fislieries, form the prin-
cipal support of the place. Though the town lies at the distance
of nearly three hundred miles from the capital, it contains
excellent shops of every kind^

Falmou<h is in the county of Cornwall ; a district wliich, on
account of its dry, desert, and unfruitful aspect, makes a very
different appearance from all other parts of England, ijut the
county has, notwithstanding, its hidden treasures, in the abun-

•■>tfp*l^- '

STAY AT FALMOUTH. J

dance of mines buried beneath the surface, furnishing excellent
tin and copper, some silver, and mineral coal. The mineralogist
may indeed find here some invaluable rarities : copper-earth
strongly impregnated with arsenic, stannum iigneuniy and pyrites
of tin. The mines that yield the best next to those of Fal-
mouth are the copper mines of Redruth. A few miles from
Falmouth is a small village called Manacha, which has its name
from mechanite or titanian-sand. To get the mineral pure, great
pains must be taken to wash it well from the sand*. The shafts
and course of the mines about Penzance and other places in
Cornwall are among the most remarkable upon the globe, some
of them lying at a great depth, and being worked underpeath
the sea itself. >%iii'

The sea-coast abounds with crabs, oysters, and various kinds
offish. The fish-market is always plentifully supplied : among
others that I saw during my stay, were the rata hatit, or skate ;
raia rubus gmel, the ray ; esox belone, the sea pike ; mullus bar-
batuSy the red mullet ; murcena conger^ the conger eel ; and
several sorts of labrus, perca, and pleuronectes, Squali, or dog-
fish, were also taken, but were never brought to market ; they
were kept to serve for baits in angling. Tu^ trigla iineata,
which abounds here, Zind the ciupeapiichardus, a small sort of
herring very little known, particularly attracted my attention.
These latter fish are taken in immense quantities: they are served
at the tables both of the rich and poor, and vast quantities are
cured, which are sent to Gibraltar and the Mediterranean.

* Counsellor Klaproth, of Berlin, through the farour of Sir John Hawkins, poi.
sesscs a complete collection of the minerals of Corawall, which he hag examined chemi.
cally, and ascertained the composition of them.

$ VOYAGE TO 7ENERTFFE.

After having procured an abundant supply of provisions,^nd
having taken on board every thing we esteemed necessary for
so important and distant a voyage, we saluted the fort ancl
guardship, and on the fifth of October quitted the shores of
Europe, with fair weather and a favourable wind. The specula-*
tions of every one were now turned towards the probable fate
which was before him. S^eparated from the rest of the world,
the sport of the winds and waves, with no other objects in view
but the sea and the sky, and at every hour removed farther &om.
parents, brethren, relations, friends, from every thing, in short,
most dear to us, it was scarcely possible not to find some feel-
ings of regret now and then intruding themselves upon our
minds. • ■ i

Captain Von Krusenstem preferred' steering his course, in the
first instance, towards Tenerifie rather than Madeira, because
the landing at the latter is much more expen»ive than at the
former, and all kinds of provisions are much dearer. Our course
was therefore directed towards the Canary Islands* The English
coast was- soon out of sight, and the great Atlantic Ocean lay
extended before us. Many people have the idea- that a very
long sea voyage cannot be otherwise than extremely emmycux,
l$ince nothing is to be seen day after day but the sea and the sky,
they conceive that the mind of every one must be wearied with
such an eternal uniformity. But this is seldom or never the
case; it is only so with those who are equally a prey to ennu^
upon terra Jirma ; who are in fact always ennuye, unless they
are at a ball, a concert, the theatre, or cards. But in an
expedition such as our's, among a numerous society of learned
and scientific men, eager in the search of knowledge, it was im-

VOTAGE TO TENERIFFE. 5.

possible to experience ennui: it might even be asserted with'
truth, that there was scarcely an individual among us who could'
not have found abundant occupation, even if our days had been
twice their actual length. I will endeavour to- give a general-
idea of the manner in which< our time was passed.

Tliose who were the latest in rising, -were yet ready for their
tea or coffee by eight in the morning. The common topics of
conversation at breakfast were the occurrences of the nighty
whether the wind and the weather had been favourable or un-
favourable ; and how far the ship had proceeded in her course.
After breakfast each repaired to his own private business. In a
numerous and well-assorted library, particularly of travels and
works of geography, which Captain Krusenslern with' great po-
liteness left free to ail the company, it was not difficult to find
entertainment for many hours in the day ; so that the morning
was parsed in reading, writing, drawing, taking the height ofi
the sun, and calculating^ the distance of the moon. ..,,,■ ^■;z

The Canary Tslands, which we hoped to reach in a few days,
naturally occupied our minds very much. All descriptions of
them from the pens of former travellers by whom they had been
visited were in consequence eagerly sought after. Every one
had studied assiduously their history, the different accountt
given of the discovery of them, the descriptions of their situation,
of their products, and of the manners and customs of the inha-
bitants.

Comparisons were made between the accounts of different
travellers; the former and present mode of their government

^ VOYAGE TO TENERIFFE.

-were studied, with the chances of war that had befallen them,
particularly the unsuccessful attack made upon the principal
island by the English, when the brave Nelson lost his right arm.
All these things furnished abundant matter for pleasant and
instructive conversation, for scientific emulation, and even gave
occasion for sallies of wit and mirth. If we happened to get
somewhat heated in conversation, we repaired to the deck to
walk up and down, and cool ourselves by breathing the fresh
air.

I III

Shoals of dolphins, delphinus de/phis, of pelamides, scomber
pelamis, of flying-fish, exoccstus volans ; the fuci floating upon
the surface of the water ; the sharks following the ship ; nu-
merous sorts of aquatic birds unknown to us before ; the whales ;
a poor land-bird driven from the shore through the force of th^
winds, and which sought an asylum in the vessel ; an unknown
ship seen in the horizon ; the expectation of approaching the
land — all these, and a thousand other objects, occupied our
attention, enlivening and varying the scene so much, that I am
almost inclined to think a sea voyage not at all less amusing
than a journey by land, wUh the reserve, that no stops are made
at the towns and villages through which the road lies. And
why should a life such as our's be more wearying than that led
by a man devoted to letters ? — why more ennuyeux than that of
a mechanic ? About two our table was spread with abundance
of very excellent provisions, to which commonly twenty-two
persons sat down. After dinner we went to our respective e.ii-
ployments till tea; then we busied ourselves Avith oirr journals,
and the evening was concluded with cheerful conversation over
a bowl of punch. Several of our party were fond of music, and

ISLAND OF TENERIFFR 7

a part of the evening, when tlie weather was cahu, was' not
unfrequently spent in making little concerts. -

The weather was so favourable, that we every day drew
nearer to a better climate ; and at length, on the nineteenth
of October, the snowy summit of the far-famed Peak of Te-
neriffe first presented itself to our view ; the twentieth Ave cast
anchor before Santa Cruz, in the eastern part of the road,
with thirty-six fathom water, in latitude 28» 27' 33' north,^
and in 16" 15' 50* longitude west from Greenwich.

Santa Cruz, on the north-east side of the island of TeneriifFe,
presents a tolerably good bay ; which, however, is not well
sheltered towards the east and north-east. The town, consist-
ing of some hundred houses, lies at a short distance from the
bay. The houses are in general from one to two stories high ;
a few have balconies ; most of them hsive jalousies * to the win-
dows, as in Spain and Portugal. The streets are regular, clean,
and well paved with lava ; they have trottoirs on each side.
It is no less pleasing than surprising to see so regularly built
and pretty a town under so remote a heaven. The internal
arrangement of the houses, the dress, tlie manners and customs
of the inhabitants, are so very similar to the Spanish, that any
one might easily believe himself in the mother-country. The
streets are at all times filled with a vast concourse of people,,
more women than men, and in the evening particularly with
a wretched shameless crew of females, and a rabble of men.

* Shutters made with sloping laths, in the manner of Venetian blinds..

ISLAND OF TENERIFFE.

* i

that liave much more the appearance of banditti than of in-
habitants of a civilized country. Besides these, there are a
parcel of beggars with tattered garments, half naked, who
importune and Auuoy strangers exceedingly.

This place owes its present flourishing condition to being
so much frequented by vessels in their course to different
parts of the globe. Very near the shore there is good an-
chorage at fifteen, twenty, and thirty fathom water. Ships
may even be well supplied with provisions, if they come about
a month sooner than we were here. Grapes, peaches, pears,
oranges., lemons, apples, bananas, chesnuts, figs, melons, pota-
toes, onions, and a great variety of culinary vegetables, are
p»'oduced in abundance all over the island, the superfluities
or which are brought to Santa Cruz for sale to strangers
touching at the port. Corn is cultivated in some degree at
Teneriffe, but much more in the neighbouring islands. Salt
is very scarce ; I was even assured that this article is brought
hither from Portugal. The wiiie, one of the principal objects
of trade in the Canary Islands, is very good, and not more than
half the price of that made at Madeira, for which reason a great
deal of TenerJffe wine is sold in England, France, and Holland,
as Madeira. A considerable dealer in wine told me, that the
superiority of the latter was principally owing to the addition
of a small quantity of French brandy, an article not easily to
be procured at Teneriffe : this, he said, constituted the most
essential difference betweep the wines.

There are no regular inns here, but for that very reason
the greater hospitality reigns in private houses: of this we

ISLAND OF TENERIFFE.

received the most obliging proofs in particular from Mr. Arm-
strong, an English merchant. The lower class of the people
seem extremely poor ; many of them never have even baked,
bread ; they only grind the corn to meal by rubbing it between
two stones, and then mix it up in their hands with water or
milk, and so eat it : sometimes their food is merely roasted
corn. The fish-market was abundantly supplied ; but during
my short stay I did not observe any great variety among the
fish. Mackerel and pelamides were daily brought to market in
great quantities ; dog-fish were eaten by the poor. I observed
two sorts of rays ; the tails of both were cut off, probably be-
cause here, as well as in Europe, the popular belief is, that
the thorns in the tail are poisonous. One species seemed to be the
rata aquila ; upon the other I will not speak with equal decision :
it had a very pointed head. Besides these, I saw the esox belone,
the murtena helena, some sorts of sparus, labrus, and chcBtodon^ and
one salmon. The fish are commonly caught by angling : instead
of string,catgut is used, which is brought hither from Cadiz. To
catch mackerel, six or eight persons go out in the evening in a
Kmall boat, on which, as soon as it is dark, a large fire of pitch
is made on both sides. The hook does not go deep into the
water, and a fish is caught almost at every moment. The fisher-
men often remain out the whole night, and it is extremely
pretty to see such a number of fires upon the water,

Santa Cruz contains two convents of monks. There are
several squares, and a public promenade ; but, excepting on
Sundays, it is very little frequented. In the market-place is a
monument of white marble, which was made in Italy, and
erected here at the expence of a gentleman of the country.

* V

10 ISLAND OF TENEIVIFFE.

to do honour to the Virgin Maria di Candeliaria. The pious
erector spent so large a portion of his fortune in this act of
devotion, that he is now reduced to very narrow circumstances,
and obliged to live with great oeconomy. Tlie town and the
island are protected by fortifications, which are garrisoned by
a regiment of soldiers. The island consists chiefly of almost
inaccessible mountains and rocks. Evident marks of former
volcanoes are to be traced in different parts : lava of several
sorts is every where to be found : all the houses and fortifica-
tions are built with it, and it is also used for paving the
streets. •

On an excursion along the sea-coast to the north-eastern
point of the island, after a good hour, I arrived at a little vil-
lage called St. Andrew. In the hills about I observed many
volcanic productions, which were miiv«led with siiex-obsidianus,
schorl, and pyroren. In the farthest hills were several porous
lavas, and a sort of argillaceous earth mingled with iron dust.
Here and there I saw basaltic blocks in rough masses, some
smaller, others larger, in other places, a sort of argillaceous
stones, some of which were mingled with strata of cal-
careous spath, others were covered over with it. About half
an hour's distance from St. Andrew, the lowermost stratum
of the hill consists of real trapezum Combined with lava. In a
deep valley in the neighbourhood of this place I observed a fine
grained granite mingled witli schorl. Subterranean grottoes
or caves, which it is to be presumed were the dwellings of
the ancient inhabitants of the island, the Guanches, are to be
found upon the steep declivities of the hills in several parts of
the island. In many of these caves are human bones, and

, ISLAND OF TENERIPFE. J]

sometimes the entire human skeleton with the skin dried
upon it, like leather. One of these natural mummies is to be
seen in the National INIuseum at Paris, and we had the good
fortune to procure one for the museum at St. Petersburgh *.

Concerning the Guanches, the aborigines of the island, we
could not obtain any accurate or satisfactory information.
We were assured that here and there families exist who have
never mingled their race with Spanish blood, but might be
considered as genuine descendants of the Guanches. We in-
deed saw some men who had a very repulsive appearance, look-
ing more like savages than like people belonging to a civilized
country. The dirty yellowish brown beard, the poverty and
scanty clothing, the uncouth habits and modes of life, all
concurred to make a very unpleasant impression upon us as
Europeans, and we should really much rather have taken the
greater part of them for Guanches than for civilized Spa-
niards.

The climate is so mild, that even in winter very little
clothing is necessary. We saw many children playing in
the streets entirely undressed ; and boys even of twelve or
feurteen years old, equally without clothing, were to be seen
working upon the sea-shore. The usual height of the ther-
mometer during our stay was from eighteen to twenty-two
degrees of Reaumur. In the country are many windmills ; but
the poor man, as observed above, grinds his corn by rubbing it

* The author dois not seem aware that one of these mummies is also to be scon in the
library at Trinity College, Cambridge. SeTeral dried corpses of this kind were lately
found in St. Giles's parish church, Westminster. — Translatoii.

tl JSI.AND OK IKNKfllKFE.

betwern two stoiu'H : one of them is li|2;lit and porous, the other
thick, siiul of hard lava. • • .<. •■

Santa Crn7 Is not tlestitute of soci»l intercourse. Our party
found a very pKasatit society every evening at the house of Mr.
Armstrong. At tlie proposal of tliis Ivospitable man, several of
\is joined in an excursion to the north-north-west part of the
island, as far as Porto de I'Orotava. Tiie distance of this place
from Santa Cruz h about four German miles and a half*. Ac-
cording to the custom of tlie country, these kind of excursioni
are made upon asses, mules, or very small horses, and the dis-
tance I have mentioned camiot be gone over in less than eight
or nine hours. Tlie ambassador, Von llesanoff, Major Von
Friderici, Dr. Laband, Counsellor Tilesius, and myself, pre-
ferred horses; and proper ones being procured, we set out early
in the morning of the twenty-first. The road lay through La
Laguna, La Matan<;a, La Vittoria, and Santa Ursula. After
about an hour, we arrived at La Laguna. The road is hilly,
lying over a soil abounding with lava ; the aspect of the country
is altogether not nnplea^rng. La Laguna is the principal town
of the island : it lies in a very, fertile district, and a great
deal of corn is cultivated in the neighbourhood. The town
itself is irregular, neither handsome or clean, and much worse
paved than Santa Cruz; it contains two convents of monks,
and two of nuns. Wc visited the monastery of Dominicans,
in which we found some monks, who received us very politely,
but their conversation betrayed the grossest ignorance, so

About tff«n(}->two English siilcs and a halfi

ISLAND Ot TENERIFFE.

that Wti could not obtain any information respecting their
institution ; they were even wiiolly uninforuicd as to the
origin and history of their monastery. Their library consisted
only of a few church books, and some lives of distinguished
saints. We endeavoured also to visit a convent of nuns, but
were sent away from the door by an old sister in a very
courteous maimer, and with a sort of mysterious smile. It
appeared to us, however, as if this good lady would have
given us a more favourable reception towards evening. Fa-
tigued with the heat of the sun, and the exertion of the jour-
ney, we looked about in vain for an inn, and were constrained
to beg hospitality of a citizen who was wholly unknown to us.
lie received us very kindly, and we procured some fruit, eggs,
and wine, of which we made a comfortable repast, .an^ then
proceeded on our way..

At a little distance from Laguna we came to a beautiful and
widely extended valley, well cultivated with corn. The soil,
consisting of decayed lava, appeared fertile in the highest degree,
though to the ye, the country was dull and uniform, as there was
scarcely a shrub or bush to be seen. Some cactuses, figs, and
mulberry trees, were the oi ly things tliat in any degree varied
the scene. For about an hour and half, or two hours, we ex-
changed this fertile country for a stony and hilly one. This
is a district where vines flourish more particularly; and the
nearer we approached to La Matan9a, La Vittoria, &c. the
greater abundance of vine-covered hills we found. We arrived
at Santa Ursula, a tolrrably large village, as the evening was
closing in. The whole village, and all the neighbourhood, were
assembled to celebrate the festival of Santa Ursula, whose

ISLAND OF TENERIFFE.

birth-day it was. On this account, there were a great many
booths set up, in which refreshments, and a number of trifling
articles, were sold. Here and there were groups of dancers, both
men and women, who accompanied their movements with the
guitar, and a rude kind of singing. The dance consisted of a
sort of swimming movement, very slow, so that the dancers
scarcely moved from their places, and at the utmost, made some-
times a demi-chain. The great concourse of people assembled
together in the darkness of the night, had rather the appearance
of a fair than of a church festival. We had still a three hours*
ride to reach Porto de I'Orotava, and we therefore set forwards
again as soon as our curiosity was satisfied.

The road from St. Ursula was bad, stony, and irksome. Our
attention was engrossed with the lofty peak, which appeared to
be just before us, though it was still at the distance of five
German miles. The greater part of our company did not choose
to trust the insecure footsteps of their horses in the dark ; they
therefore dismounted, and descended the hill on foot, having
the town of Orotava always in view, as it was clear moonlight.
After much winding and turning, we at length reached it at nine
o'clock, exceedingly fatigued with the exertions of the day. We
went to the house of a friend of Mr. Armstrong's, Mr. Barry,
who, having been previously informed of our intended visit,
received us with the utmost courtesy and hospitality.

Porto de I'Orotava is a small town, which, from having been
originally only an assemblage of fishermens' huts, has been con-
stancy increasing, and is now become the abode of some of the
richest merchants in the island. The streets are in general

ISLAND OF TENERIFFE. 15

broad, tolerably clean, and well-paved. The port is not by any
means so good, or so safe, as that of Santa Cruz -. there are many
rocks near the shore, and a very strong surf. The situation of
the town is fine, and the surrounding country is beautiful : as the
town lies on the north side of the peak, it is less molested by
the burning heat of the sun. The greatest quantity of wines in
the island are cultivated in this district, so that ships often
come hither to take in their lading ; but they are obliged to
anchor at a considerable distance from the shore, and if the wind
be at all strong, to stand quite out to sea.

The most interesting object in the town is a very fine botanic
garden. This was established in 1795, by the Marquis de Nava,
a very rich man, who lived at Laguna. As a friend to know-
ledge and science, he laid before the Spanish Court a plan for
cultivating plants here from all parts of the world: he par-
ticularly wished to make the experiment of transporting to this
spot many valuable and useful plants growing in the torrid zone,
in hopes, that if accustomed by degrees to a cooler climate, they
might at length be brought to thrive in the cold soils of Europe.
The plan was discussed, and the government determined to
support the undertaking. The Marquis himself omitted nothing
that lay in his power to promote it, and even advanced large sums
to the government for the purpose. He has now laboured for many
years to obtain the very desirable objects he proposed, but alas,
in vain! and it is much to be feared that an undertaking, which
would have done so much honour both to the nation and the
individual, will soon fall entirely to the ground. The Marquis
finds himself almost at the end of his own means, and the
government does not seetTi disposed to concern itself farther in

J6 ISLAND OF TrNRRIFPE.

the affair. This is so much the more to be regretted, as there are
already more than three thousand rare plants collected from
Mexico, Peru, Chili, and the Cape of Good Hope, which, under
the care of a very scientific gardener sent from England, are in
the most flourishing state. This gardener has also endeavoured
to cultivd,te some of the wild plants, natives of the Canary
Islands.

The draccena draco, or dragon's-blood tree, is a native of the
Canaries ; but the inhabitants, though well aware of its utility,
concern themselves little about derivins; the advantages that
might be obtained from it. Nearly an hour's distance fi-om
Porto de I'Orotava lies a villa of the same name, belonging to
Don Pedro Franschy. Close by the house stands a dragon's-
blood tree, the circumference of which is forty-two English feet.
Time did not permit us to visit this veiy extraordinary natural
curiosity. • , ! . j.

■ ■ ' ■ ', ■' ' ' ■

On the twenty-third we returned to Santa Cruz. Captain
Von Krusenstern had in the mean time laid in a stock of water,
wood, wine, and other ship stores; and we learnt from the
officers that while we had been amusing ourselves at Orotava, he
had given a ball on board the Nadeschda. Our crew being
rested and refreshed, we were all ready to depart by the twenty-
sixth.

I must not, however, quit the island without a word or two
respecting the Peak, so universally celebrated. This was for-
merly regarded as one of the most conspicuous among the moun-
tains upon our globe. Its height, according to the best

PEAK OF TENERIFFE.

geometrical calculations, is estimated by Bordaat 1905 toises* ;
others only give 1901. But since we have been better ac-
quainted with the new world, and the height of Chimboraxo
is ascertained to be 3357 t«»'oes, that of ,Cayambe-Urku to be
3030, Antisana 2993, Cotopaxi 2952, ;uid that a great number
of others tower far above the Peak of Teneriffe, the latter has
lost much of its ancient fame.

How much soever some of our company wished to ascend
this mountain, the short and indefinite term of our stay pro-
hibited the gratification of our wishes. We were besides assured
by the inhabitants, that at so advanced a time of the year we
should hardly be able to overcome the difficulties attendant
upon the undertaking, and should be obliged, if we engaged hi
it, to turn back again. But as it had been visited earlier in the
year by Monsieur Cordier, a Frenchman, whose knowledge of
mineralogy, and zeal in the pursuit of mineralogical subjects,
are well known, I will here present my readers with the remarks
made by this very intelligent traveller, taken from his own
manuscript. . ,. = - -. . >-. . ,, , - „, . ,

On the sixteenth of April he set out from Porto de I'Orotava
to ascend the Peak. He found the plain on which the hill stands,
Las faldas de ias Canadas, to be 1100 toises above the level
of the sea: it was covered with vitrified lava and pumice-
stones. A great quantity of broom, spartium supranubium.

* A toise is six French feet, about six fret .ind a liulf English measure ; so that 1905
toises vi\\\ giro a height of somewhat more than ivto English miles and a quarter.

Taanslator

PKAK OF TENERIFFE.

shared with some lichens the possession of this vast waste. At
the sfancia de los ingieses the barometer was at 19 inches Q'^OS
lines, and the heat + 4,°,00, by Reaumur: the stancia, therefore,
according to the above observations, he determined to be 1529
toises above the sea. The broom grows still at this height,
though very much stunted. Tiie cold was very supportable.
Three hours carried him to the summit of the Peak. In arriving
at it, a great deal of ground is passed over, covered with heaps of
vitrified lava in very large rough pieces. The steep acclivity which
leads to the summit is strewed with loose pumice-stones, which,
from their constantly slipping under the feet, makes the ascent
very fatiguing. With a clear atmosphere, and mild weather, the
islands of Hierro, Gomera, Palma, and Canaria, may be seen
from hence. The walls of the crater within are very steep, and
are highest on the northern side : the descent into the cavity is
only practicable by three clefts in the sides. The space within
is of an elliptic forai ; the circumference is about 1100 feet; the
depth 110. The steep descent into the crater consists of a
white earth, which seems a decomposition of vitrified lava.
Crystals of sulphur of the most beautiful colour, and extremely
brilliant, ornament the inward walls', the hot moisture, which
stood abundantly on all sides, bad been ascending for some
hours front) the depth below ; and a thermometer held in one of
the clefts rose to the height of 80° by Reaumur: this moisture
consisted of sulphur, and a sort of tasteless water. It is very
remarkable that, mingled with the incrustations of sulphur,
opal, in a variety of forms, was to be found.

At eight o'clock, Monsieur Cordier being one toise and a
half from the top of the mountain, the barometer stood at

PEAK OF TENERIFFB, J9

18 inches four lines, the thermometer at Go^09. At the same
hour, the barometer at Porto de I'Orotava was at 28* 5'" 06,
the thermometer at + 19°,09. The point at wliich this obser-
vation was taken was seven toises above the level of the sea, so
that the result of the whole gives 1901,02 French toises for the
height of the Peak. The inclination of the needle was directed
more than five degrees towards the south pole.

The accounts generally given concerning the keenness of tlte
cold, the difficulty of breathing, and the appearance of the
aun's disk, arc extremely exaggerated. The cold was per*
fcctly supportable, the strength of the liquors was not in the
least diminished, nor did the hydrosulphuric moisture occasion
any difficulty of breathing : the rarefaction of the ak did not
oppress the lungs any ferther than to create a necessity of stop-
ping at intervals for a short time when approaching towards
the summit. . , » ^ .. . .. .. ^ ;^ .j.

Although these observations of Mons.Cordier vary very much
from those of other travellers, the diiferences may be easily re-
conciled, since it is well known that in the Alps of Switzerland
the cold will change very much in the course of an hour. Mons.
Cordier was also extremely fortunate in having chosen a very
favourable moment for ascending the Peak. He left this
interesting place after staying three hours and a half. In
descending, he soon reached the nostrils of the Peak, as they
are called. These are two holes at the foot of the summit,
which constantly emit a damp vapour. In their neighbour-
hood is the cave called Cueva del Gelo, of which a thou-
sand wonderful stories are related. An idea of it may

D 2

#•-,

'io

PEAK OF TENERIFFE.

be conceived by imagining a grotto formed occasionally by the
flowing lava, as it bursts over a vacant space. The bottom of
this cave is commonly filled M'ith water arising from dissolved
snow, but in the summer it is occasionally entirely dry. The
difterent lavas found in these parts have this peculiarity, that
they show the transition of flints into pumice-stones.

There are some other volcanoes. The crater of that which
choaked up the harbour of Garachico with lava is five
hours from Orotava ; the new volcano is seven hours distant
from Yrod dc los Vinos. The three apertures made by the lava
in Las Canadas'Vie one above tb'- other upon the steep descent
of the mountain Chahorra, which is itself a monstrous excres-
cence at the foot of the Peak on its south-west side. The
largest of these apertures is twelve hundred paces in circum-
ference, and its margin is thirteen hundred toises above the level
of the sea. There is no possibility of descending into this. In
the others sulphur is found in small quantities, and the vapour
is not material. In ascending Chahorra, Mons. Cordier dis-
covered another crater, which had never been observed before :
it is sixteen hundred toises above the level of the sea, and is
finer than any of those hitherto mentioned : it is nearly an hour
and a half in circumference, is very old, and on its steep sides
are to be seen abundant traces of the most dreadful fires.
The Peak stands upon its margin. The reason of this splendid
phoenomenon having remained hitherto unknown, is, that it is
impossible, on account of the steepness of the sides, to ascend
to the top of the crater upon the Peak on the north side.

The volcano of Guimar is six hundred and seventy toises

VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS. oj

above the level of the sea, on the steep declivity that leads
to La Cumbre. After forming a mass, the square of which
required an hour to go round, the lava spread itself over
the plain of Los Barancos, at the foot of the mountain ; a
part of it ran even to within a quarter of an hour's distance
from the sea, which is at the distance of two hours and a half
from the mountain. The lava is grey, of a petrosilex nature,
mingled with crystals of augit and crysolites. The scoria con-
tinues now to decompose, producing a fine sand, which might
no doubt be brought into cultivation.

On the twenty-seventh of October, in the afternoon, we'
weighed anchor; and, amid the roar of cannon, set forward to
the Brazils. The atmosphere was uncommonly clear, so that
on the twenty-ninth, at six in the morning, we could still see
the Peak, though it was at the distance of more than a hundred
sea miles. We had now before us a voyage of two months
and a half; although to many this would have appeared a
wearisome and cnnuyant prospect, - . thought of it with great
pleasure.

A few days after our departure we arrived between the tro-
pics ; and, favoured by the monsoon, proceeded on our voyage
most pleasantly. The thermometer was generally from 20" to
22°, and we endeavoured to render the heat supportable by
wearing very thin cloathing, chiefly of nankeen. The ship
cut the waves so tranquilly, that, but for feeling every now and
then a fresh breeze, we should hardly have recollected that we
were upon the sea. The nights were cool, and sometimes
damp. Captain Von Krusenstern was therefore particularly

fli VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS.

careful that no part of the crew should be thinly clothed at that
time, or should sleep uncovered upon the deck. Several, in-
deed, considered this as being over-cautious, since they con-
ceived, that by enjoying the cool air of night, their strength
would be recruited ; but the happy consequences that attended
the regulation^ the constant good health that reigned among
us, shewed plainly that we were all greatly indebted to this
excellent man for his prudent attentions.

Most of our northern travellers found the warm climate
very pleasant, and agreed, that while in twenty to twenty-four
degrees of cold, an ear or nose might very well be frozen off;
in a like degree of warmth, nothing prejudicial to the health
was to be apprehended. The riches of the southern climates,
where, almost without the intervention of man, nature
brings forth fruits and other things necessary to his suste-
nance, where he is free from all solicitude to procure a warm
dwelling, warm clothing, and plenty of firing, shew suflfi-
ciently that the existence of man in mild climates is the effect
of nature, in cold ones it is entirely the result of art. It is
consequently there where necessity compels the mind to greater
exertions, and where reciprocal assiduity has for its object
merely to satisfy the necessities of nature, that a higher degree
of cultivation must be sought. One only among our party,
whose constitution had been previously shaken, ever complained
of the heat being insupportable.

We had daily new scenes and new sources of entertainment
in various ways. The tropic bird photon athereus, the Bying
fish, the pelamide, and the tiiunny, ar€ often seen in these

VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS. f3

regions, and we could sometimes take them with the harpoon ;
but this sport was not so productive to us, as, according to the
accounts given, it has been found by others. We many times
caught a small kind of sharks, which, for want of other fresh
food, were eaten with great pleasure by the sailors. The
remora or sucking fish, echeneis remoray and the pilot, gastcros-
teus ductor, were also taken occasionally. In very still wea-
ther we sometimes saw the pht/saiis peiagica. The extraordinary
structure of this creature, like a bladder with a number of little
threads hanging to it, the beauty of its colours, and the no-
velty of the object, delighted us exceedingly. The threads,
by touching them, occasion a smart and an inflammation on the
skin, in the same manner as if cantharides were applied to it.
In good weather we frequently hoisted out a boat to examine
the clearness and temperature of the water, and the current,
or else to fish ; sometimes even we went to pay a visit to our
companion in the voyage, the ship Neva. Such little excur-
sions, when out in the vast ocean, have inexpressible charms,
and whenever one of them took place, it was always a sort of
competition who should partake in the treat. > '

The nearer we approached to the equator, the more variable
was our weather. We had alternate calms, brisk gales, showers,
thunder-storms, cloudy skies, and bright sunshine. The heat
was very supportable, seldom exceeding twenty-two degrees of
lleaumur. On the twenty-sixth of November, in the fore-
noon, we passed the Line in longitude 24" 20' west of Green-
wich. This occurrence is sufficiently interesting to all Euro-
peans to be noted in their journals ; how much more remark-
able then was it to Russians, since ours were the first ves-

54 VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS.

scis of that nation that had over navigated these waters, that
had ever visited the southern division of the globe. A feeling
of national pride Avas awakened in every breast ; and t\ v.w we,
who were foreigners, joined in the exultation, since wc shared
in the honour of laying the foundation for an active conunerce,
which might be in the end of the greatest importance to the
Russian nation. . •

It vas about ten in the forenoon that we crossed the Line,
when both vessels, the Nadeschda and the Neva, hoisted the
Russian flag, and the day was celebrated as a festival by both.
As it is prescribed by ancient custom, that every one who passes
the Line for the first time shall be dipped into the water, or at
least well sprinkled with it, this ceremony was punctually ob-
served by us. A sailor, who was full of natural drollery and
vivacity, to make it the more impressive, dressed him-
self to represent Neptune. The costume in which this god
of the seas appeared must have been one he was only accus-
tomed to wear at the north or south pole ; for certainly in the
warm climates he usually inhabited, such an one could never
have been seen before. In his hand, instead of a trident, he
held a harpoon, and with inconceivable celerity dipped his
bucket again and again into the water, and sprinkled those
around him. When it is observed that the thermometer was
now between twenty-two and twenty-three degrees of Reaumur,
it will easily be imagined how comfortably warm this good sailor
must have been, clad in a thick fur dress, remaining for some
hours upon the deck, springing hither and thither in the per-
formarxe of his function. He went through the whole most
admirably, to the great delight and amusement of the company.

VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS.

The comniander of the other ship, the Neva, Captain Lisian-
sky, at the moment when the Rustiiaii flag greeted the equator,
passed us in full soil with his yards manned, and gave us three
hearty cheers, which we returned with equal ardour.

The ambassador, Von Resanoff, in order to impress this
very remarkable day in the annals of Russian navigation the
more forcibly upon the minds of everybody, assembled all the
sailors upon deck, and ranging them in a row, gave every
one a Spanish dollar. When dinner-time arrived, we all sat
down with the utmost hilarity. During dinner, we drank,
amid the roar of cannon, the health of his Imperial Majesty,—
of the gracious monarch, the benefactor of his subjects, the
promoter of trade and navigation, — and all his imperial house.
Afterwards we drank the minister of trade. Count Roman-
zoff, and Count Tchitchagoff, minister of the marine, the
president of the academy of sciences at St. Petersburgh, Von
NovosilsofF, the directors of the Russio- American company, our
brave commander. Captain Von Krusenstern, the ambassador
Von Resanoff, with all our friends and relations, and the com--
panions of our voyage. We were arrived at the utmost height
of joy and mirth, when we rose from table, and went upon
deck. Here a new jubilee began. Captain Krusenstern, the
ambassador, and all the officers, were one after the other raised
up, and swung round in the hand with a shout of joy and a
grand liuzza. This is a custom among the Russians, when
they would shew the great esteem and honour in which they
hold persons of such a description. The pleasures of this re-
markable day were concluded with a bowl of punch. •

26 VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS.

We did not find the heat under the equator by any means so
insupportable as it is generally represented. To judge by my
own feelings, I must confess that a very burning summer's day
in the north of Europe is much more oppressive than the
heat under the Line. In the latter region, seldom a day passes
that a cooling thunder-storm does not refresh the air. As in
the north, people guard agains' the cold by warm, clotliiiig and
fur caps, so in warm climates the inhabitants, to avoid being
overcome by the heat, wear very thin clothing and light straw
hats. .. . <

Our Neptune, who, notwithstanding the height of the
thermometer, had been leaping about all day in a ma,sk and
a thick fur dress, must have indeed endured a very unusual
degree of heat ; yet he never suffered in the least from it.
Perhaps the Russian custom of using the vapour-bath so
much had a considerable influence in enabling him to support
the heat without inconvenience. It is very striking to compare
the regulations formerly made on a sea voyage with those
of the present times. For example : Sir John Narborough,
in the year 1670, says, that he had the precaution, in the
warm zones, to have his people bled frequently ; and expe-
rience had taught him, that no method was more efficacious
for preventing fevers. This navigator must have had a very
healthy crew, for it might be proved, by many weighty ar-
guments, that his precaution was sufficient to debilitate them,
and render them much more liable to be attacked by fevers and
scurvy. Experience has shewn Captain Cook's and Cap-
tain Krusenstern's plan to be far more salutary. By keeping the
men well fed, and endeavouring to mrike them cheerful, by

VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS. fj

enforcing cleanliness, and giving them plenty of good water,
witli sometimes a glass of wine, grog, or punch, the whole
crew, without any one being bled, passed the Line four times,
and returned to Europe all in perfect health.

Our poultry, which were partly brought from Europe,
partly taken in at the island of Teneriffe, did not bear the heat
and the long sea voyage so well as ourselves ; our hens, a few
excepted, became entirely blind. What could be the reason of
this I can by no means conjecture. Labillardiere, who ob-
served the same effect among his poultry, ascribes it to the in-
fluence of the air. Perhaps it is rather occasioned by the, sea-
water, since, from the ship being very frequently washed, and
from water being thrown into it in considerable quantities by
strong winds, it is almost inevitable that some will occasionally
mingle itself with the food given to the poultry.

■i /

■r.l

Every little and often apparently trifling circumstance de-
serves notice in a voyage such as our's. I cannot, therefore,
pass over an incident which occurred on the twenty -second of
November. We observed a ship, which appeared to be sailing
towards Europe ; Captain Krusenstern hailed it, and sent an
officer on board with letters. I begged to accompany him, as
such an excursion upon the wide ocean is not a thing that hap-
pens every day. We learnt that the vessel belonged to the
United States of America, and was bound for Batavia. This
arduous voyage the captain, like many others, was making
without any great astronomical knowledge, and without a chro-
nometer, in consequence of which he was now in reality three
degrees more to the west than he was according to his ship's

18 yOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS^

reckoning, fie was exceedingly thankful to us for pointing
out to him his error, and indicating the true longitude of the
vessel : his course was in consequence immediately changed.

The seventh and eighth of December, Captain Krusenstern
was occupied in seeking the problematic island of Ascen^ao,
the existence of which is doubted by the latest navigators, par-
ticularly by La Perouse. We steered westward, and found
ourselves towards evening in latitude 20° 42' south, and 37*
longitude, consequently two degrees more to the west than the
last-named unfortunate navigator, without finding any island :
so that if it really exists, it is not in the place hitherto laid
down in the maps.

We had now for several weeks, that is, from the twenty-
seventh of October, floated upon the great ocean, the sport of
the winds and waves ; when at length, on the t\v«lfth of De-
cember, we discovered Cape Frio, on the long wished-for coast
of Brazil. This land, abounding in gold and diamonds, with
its splendid towns and rich productions, had long been the lead-
ing object of interest among us; it had been the subject of our
daily conversation, of our anxious curiosity. Many of our ship'.s
company wished earnestly to visit the town of Rio Janeiro, in
the neighbourhood of this cape. Captain Krusenstern, how-
fever, thought of the difficulties we should have to contend
with. He saw clearly, that here we must of necessity be sub-
jected to a very strict visitation, and put to many unnecessary
expenses, besides probably losing a great deal o£time ; and he
therefore determined rather to bend his course to Santa Catha-
fina, an island three degrees farther to the south, which had

ISLAND OF SANTA CATBAHlNA. 10^

many superior recommendations as a place of refreshment, and
which had been visited by the immortal La Perouse. We made
amends for our disappointment by amusing ourselves exceed-
ingly "with the many new objects which the sea and the neigh-
bourhood of the land here presented to our observation. We
were from twenty to thirty miles distant from the shore, and
saw near our ship a great number of fishing-boats, which sailed
by with perfect indifference, probably because they had nothing
to sell, and did not want to buy any thing of us.

The country, even at this distance, gave us specimens of
its riches. The sea appeared altogether alive. In forty fathom
water we caught dorades, coryphoena hippurus, which we
thought* excellent. We remarked, at the same time, an im-
mense number of salpoe, heroes, medusas, and other slimy
gelatinous and transparent animals, which come under the
general name of Zoophytes and Mollusquae. It was particularly
striking to see the white sea in some places entirely red : on an
accurate examination, we perceived that this effect arose from
an immense number of little crabs which floated upon the surface
of the water.

On the eighteenth of December we came in sisht of
the island of Santa Catharina, and were already welcomed,
though at the distance of more than sixty sea miles, by a
great quantity of butterflies : they were probably driven from
the land by a strong wind. The weather was very fine, the
horizon clear-, and we steered directly for the coast. At half
past four in the afternoon we were so near, that we could
distinguish the trees, the rocks, and other objects. We were

'■•m

SO m.AND OF 9ANTA CATHARINA.

full of hope, that this evening, or very early the next morn-
ing, we should cast anchor, and be soon in full enjoyment of
all the delights of Brazil ; when suddenly a violent storm of
thunder, wind, and rain, came on, so that we were obliged
to bear away from the land, and seek our safety from a south-
west wind in the open sea, nor could we venture to approach
the coast again till the twentieth.

STAT AT SANTA CATHARINA.

CHAPTER II.

Stay at Santa Catharina. — The Town of Notsa Senhora do Desterro.'—
Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants. — Dance of the Negro Slaves.— ^
Excursion to the Main-Land. — Arts^ Knowledge, and Public Institw
tions. — Manufactory of Train-Oil.'- Natural History. — Medical Obser-
vations.

The aspect of the landscape presented to our view, which
was decked with a drapery of the most beautiful green, orna-
mented with flowers of a thousand hues, promised us, even at
a distance, the highest enjoyment during our stay in the place,
and the most abundant refreshment. The island of Santa Ca-
tharina, and the coast of the main-land opposite to it, consist
principally of pretty high land ; the most lofty summits, how-
ever, rise only to a middling height, and are entirely clothed
with trees ; the ascents are steep, and they are much intersected
with deep vallies. We observed along the coast several little
creeks and islets, and found the land abundantly watered by many
springs, rivulets, mountain- torrents, rivers, and marshes. The
shore is partly sandy, partly bordered by granite rocks, against
which the waves beat with so much force, and occasion so
strong a surf, that it is impossible for a vessel to approach
them.

The sight of land, even of the most barren rocks, is always
delightful after a voyage of two months, and having no other
view during all that time but the wide waste of waters. How

3^ STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

much more enchanting then is the prospect of such a land as
that we now approached, where nature is so' highly favoured,
where reigns all imaginable beauty, every thing that can
charm the eye and delight the heart. A lovely landscape
rose above the strand of the sea, and the green of the hills
was increased by the golden border they received from the
rays of the setting sun. We saw about the shore, to which
we drew nearer every moment, several little vessels ; and
dropped our anchor, on the twenty-first, near a small ft)rtress
called Santa Cruz, upon the island of Atomeri.

My imagination was so filled with beautiful pictures, that
I could scarcely wait the return of dawn to obtain a more inti-
mate knowledge of this enchanting spot. I must confess, that
my ideas were carried almost perhaps to extravagance ; but
notwithstanding this, the nearer I approached the land, the
more did I find the reality exceed my expectation. The num-
t>er and variety of the flowers, the beauty of their colours,
their size and forms, were truly worthy of admiration, and the
delicious odours with which they filled the atmosphere seemed
at every breath to strengthen the body, and exhilarate th»mind.

Large butterflies, which I had hitherto only seen as rarities
in the cabinets of the curious, were fluttering about in pro-
digious numbers ; and plants, which I did not know any
otherwise but as dwarfs in our conservatories, here reared their
heads aloft in towering majesty. The lovely golden colibris
hovered about the honied flowers of thje banana-groves, and the
notes of birds never heard before resounded through the well-
watered vallies, delighting at once the ear and the hearts

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

Shady winding paths lead from one habitation to another, very
far exceeding in pleasantness and beauty, in simplicity and
variety, the studied and artificial walks that ornament our
European gardens. Every thing I saw excited in me the
utmost astonishment from its novelty, and made an impression
upon my mind and heart much easier felt than described. In
the evening I returned to our ship wholly transported, and
enriched with a large coUectioji of plants and insects : here I
excited no less astonishment among all our party than I had
myself experienced, and they joined with me in admiring more
particularly the size, variety, ^nd beauty of colouring among
the butterflies.
. . '■,,-.■. '

The island of Santa Catharina forms but a small portion of
the government to which it gives name. It is twenty-five miles
long, and in some places from eight to nine miles broad, in
others only from three to four. Its north-north-west point lies
in latitude 27" 19' 10" south, and in longitude 47° 49' 2(y
west, according to Captain Von Krusensteru's and Dr. Horner's*
observations. It is separated from the main-land by a strait,
which in the narrowest part is not more than two hundred
fathoms over. All the entrances to the strait are guarded by
forts mounted with artillery, and garrisoned ; but, notwithstand-
ing, in case of an attack from an enemy, they are not capable

^ Dr. Horner, of Zurich, was, at Zach's recoDimendation, appointed astronomer to
thii expedition. Captain Von Rrusenstcrn commends, in liis work, the activity and
knowledge of this excellent man. Through his probitjr, hif> integrity, and the mildness
of his character, he acquired the friendship and esteem of erery body : he distinguished
hinself in the most adTantagcoui manner on a great variety of occasions.

■*)i^

f'.

f »}f/

«*,

'■%■»

STAY AT SANTA CATHARftfA.

of making much resistance. Small vessels, such as brigs, cutters, .
,&c. may take the southern entrance to get to the establishment,
but larger vessels must take the northern. The latter is defended
by two small forts, one of which stands upon the north-west
point of the island, and is called Forte da Ponta Grossa ; the
other is nearer the main-land upon the little island Atomeri,
and has the name of Santa Cruz. In the neighbourhood of the
latter, large ships find a safe and convenient anchorage. - '

The principal place of the island, and the seat of govern-
ment, is the' town of Nossa Senhora do Desterro. It stands
on the south-west side of the island, about ten sea-mile?
from the anchoring-place above mentioned, at the foot of a
considerable hill, and contains between four and five hundred
houses. The number of inhabitants in the island of Santa Ca-
tharina is reckoned at ten thousand, that of the whole govern-
ment dependent upon the island at thirty thousand. There are
a great number of people among the inhabitants in easy cir-
cumstances, but few very rich. The houses are all built of
stone, cemented with a kind of clayey earth : the streets are
for the most part regular. Here are merchants, or rather
traders, and mechanics, of every description ; and great abund-
ance of provisions of all kinds are daily brought to market
from the country around. In the numerous shops are to be
found almost all sorts of European merchandize that contribute
to the support and convenience of life ; as, for example, iron
wares, glass, porcelain, silk and woollen stuffs, cloth, looking-
glasses, paper, &c. &c. But all these things, as may be rea-
flonably supposed, are extremely dear. ,,; —,;-)

J I. . 1

Bkasilian Air.

Modinha.

^ Quan do o mal a _ Ra-ba,o bem prinei _pi a qmmdo omal a ea ba o bem prinei.pi . a«inca

Tnal a oeor _ de mal a oe-or _ de mal a nenr _ _ H« mal n n*ini>

peor _ de mal a pe-or _ de mal a peor _ _ de mal a peor _

Quaiido o mal acaba
O bem priuripia
Meu mal acabou
O bem se sep,>!ua
Pois sim, men senhor*
IVIeu mal acabou
Mas penso que vou
De n\v\ a peor.

Vein a noite eseura
Succedes o dia
DepoiN da tormenta ;
Veil) a ealmeria
Puis itim* meu senhor,
Meu mal arabou
Mrs penxo que vou
De iiial a peor.

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Song op the Natives op Nukahiwa.

Choral. MelancoHco, tiniHono retardaado.

Solo ^ ^ Tutti

/^ Solo

DfTflMlw.

/ i I iI i ^mT l u ii i IT I '^ 1 1 \ ^ sm

Hi a te a niM_H_a . uh
Where in the Iig4it?

J.ta u a ta.a-a- . oh tea ma a. ma a
on the Iiile of Tk^naJta Wherefors tfio Vir" .

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to

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oh
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let us . kin _ die

iTp'p I M Ijp tp I u t ■ Jj c j- Ijp ii^ I '■[ Jii* tf 1 1, 1 pp

.he

Fire

Tai . (•
here ia

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fe^

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Fire

r 'i r I '1 ^r

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we will roast him

ena.ta a
we have

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fled

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his Sister weeps

ti_ti he i - .he
his Parents weep hin

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daug'hters weep

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first

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second day

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third day

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fourth day

a hi ma eh, a -ho.no eh
fifth day sixth day

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seventh day

awahu _ _
eighth day

. eh

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ninth day

.oh uha ona eh

tenth day

aho _ hi _ . «li

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA. (ft

The inhabitants of the whole province are pleasing, friendly,
and prepossessing ; great hospitality reigns among them, and
they are very sociable with each other. Tliey assemble toge-
ther in the evening in little family parties, in which the Portu-
guese manners prevail entirely : they dance, they laugh, they
joke, they sing, they play, and might be taken really for those
whose manners they imitate. Their usual instruments are the
guitar and the dulcimer. The music is expressive, pleasing,
and aflfecting ; the songs are, according to the very general, it
may be said, almost universal custom, changes upon love and
maidens, upon wounds given by Cupid and bleeding hearts,
upon sighs and longings. But as it will, perhaps, be more
agreeable to my readers to have a specimen of the Brazilian
airs, than merely a description of them, I subjoin one.

■ The females are not i^ly ; among those of the higher classes
we saw some who, even in Europe, might with justice have
been pronounced handsome. They are in general of a middle
stature, well made, with dark complexions, coarse dark
hair, and dark eyes full of fire ; we saw, however, a few who
were very fair. They rect ive their guests with great courtesy,
and are not restrained like the lovely sex in the mother-
country, who are shut up he whole year through, and can
only catch a sight of a stranger by looking through the key-
hole or a crack in the door. How inconsiderable soever this
place may be, it is not destitute of little love intrigues ; they
are woven together here as every where else. ' The most insig-
nificant presents of European merchandize, tinsel, ribbands,
ear-rings, or other things of the like kind, are always
thankfully received. The clothing of both sexes is according

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

to the European fashions, only that the garments are made
of the thinnest and lightest materials that can be procured.
Muslins, fine linens, nankeen, and silks, are particularly sought
after.

This gorernment is of modern institution. It extends from
Rio Grande, which is at thirty-two degrees south, to the go-
vernment of St. Paul, which is at twenty-five. It was princi-
pally peopled from this latter government. The Portuguese
regency has bestowed many privileges upon it ; as, for example,
that all ships coming into or going out of this port, foreigners
as well as natives, pay ranch less than at any otlrer harbour
in Brazil. The province is fertile, and all things necessary to
life are extremely cheap. Nature brings forth every tiling with-
out much help from the activity and industry of man. Fruit,
of a great variety of sorts, is produced in ahnost inconceivable
profusion. Oranges, lemons, limes, bananas, pine-apples,
peaches, sweet melons, water melons, figs, cocoa and other
nuts, and grapes, abound all over the island. Turkish corn
is also grown, as well as rice and various sorts of pulse. Spa-
nish potatoes, convolvulus batatas, onions, yams, dioscorea alata,
and many other sorts of vegetables, are cultivated. Tapioca,
as it is called in Brazil, in other places mandioca, or cassava
root, jatropha manihoty is the principal food of a great part of
the inhabitants, and is eaten instead of bread. The finer parts
of the root make the tapioca, a true white sago, and this is
eaten by the higher classes ; the grosser parts, under the name
offarinha da pao^ are eaten by the poor. Corn and white bread
are only to be found among the very highest and richest of the
people. The earth-nuti arachis hi/pogwa, is also abundantly

STAT AT SANTA CATHARI.VA. |||

culttvated. At the time when this plant is in flower, the
pointal inclines towards the ground, by which means it receive*
its fructification. It is said to be now much cultivated in the
south of France.

The landed nroprietors almost invariably keep a great num-
ber of domestic animals, as oxen, horses, cows, hogs, ducks,
geese, turkeys, &c. , meut and poviltry are therefore to be had
at a very reasonable ^^rice. An ox, of at least four hundred
pounds weight, niay be ^^urchas u fortnight Spanish dollars ; are
excellent milch cow for twe)'"", or from tliat price to sixteen :
a fat hog of two hundred pounds for ' n dollars ; a good fowl
for the eighth of a dc'.ai. Muscles, c^iabs, shrimps, and fish-
of various sorts, might als<> be had in abundairr but they are
dear in proportion to other things. The inhabitants of tlie coast
in general fish for themselves, so that but little is brought to
market ; the negro slaves are the persons principally employed
to fish. A fine fertile property of some hundred acres of land,
well wooded, and with excellent pasture, may be bought for
three or four hundred Spanish dollars. Any one who is in pos-
session of such a property, and some good slaves, may be con-
sidered as a rich man, free from care, and he may live in abun-^
dance upon ' products of it. The proper inhabitants of the
country are easily to be distinguished by their superior clean-
liness from the dirty Portuguese. The soldiers, the peasants,
and e^" u the poorest among the people, not only wear plenty
of good and clean linen, but the utmost neatness is to be ob-
served in their houses and household.

The greatest part of the government of Santa Catharina con--

i/f.

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

sists of coast-land, running not farther into the country than from
six to eijiht German miles. Even at the distance of one Ger-
man mile from the shore the lands begin to be thinly inhabited :
only scattered cottages are to be found at a considerable dis-
tance from each other. These people depend principally for
their support upon the rearing of cattle. They have innu-
merable herds of horned beasts, which range in immense pas-
tures, remaining there the whole year round without any care
being taken of them ; nor can each individual exactly ascer-
tain the number that properly belongs to him. These half-
wild animals are sold upon the spot at the low price of two
or three Spanish dollars ; they are bought in great numbers,
and brought to the town of Nossa Senhora do Desterro.
The greatest difficulty is to catch them : for this purpose,
many persons both on foot and on horseback endeavour to
surround an ox, and to throw over his horns or his foot a
cord with a noose in it. When thus caught, they play him
about for a while till he is wearied, and he is then thrown
to the ground : in this manner he is somewhat tamed, so that
he can at length be driven to the town. Yet the transport of
these beasts is attended with so much trouble, that the price
is doubled by the time they reach the place of their destina-
tion.

The inhabitants of the interior are not only the poorest
in the province, but they are subject, from time to time, to
inroads from the Indians, the aborigines of the country, who
are here called Gentio brava, wild men, or CaboccoJos. Du-
ring our stay, an occurrence of this kind took place, and the
governor was obliged to send a detachment of soldiers to the

i'l

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA. 39

assistance of the people. I understood, indeed, that such
occurrences were by no means rare. ,

With regard to the climate, we did not find the heat so
insupportable as we had been led to expect. During the
months of December and January, which, in the southern
hemisphere, answer to our summer months, the usual height
of the thermometer in the shade was from twenty to twenty-
two degrees of Reaumur; the greatest heat was twenty-six.
The governor related, as an extraordinary circumstance, that
he had known the thermometer as low as ten degrees: this
is the greatest degree of cold ever felt. Scarcely a day
passes in the warm, season without rain and thunder storms
towards the evening. Winter, according to the account
of the inhabitants, is the most agreeable season of the year,,
and like a delightful spring, ., .

The air is constantly moist. The lofty chauis of mountains
being covered with an eternal green, attract the clouds, which
then descend into the vallies to refresh the plants and ani-
mals, and afford them nourishment, and to furnish supplies
to the springs, the brooks, and the rivers. The greater the
heat during the day, the more certainly may thunder and
rain be expected in the evening. The regular supply of
moisture, together with the great degree of warmth, may be
considered as the united causes of the excessive luxuriance
and variety that reign in the vegetable and animal kingdoms
here. The naturalist, however, finds great obstacles to his ob-
taining a good collection of objects of natural history, since
the beetles, the crabs, the butterflies, the locusts, the large

'40 «TAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

spiders, wliich among us are dried very easily, are here
always disposed to rot, unless very great care be taken to dry
them in close places, where they are not at all exposed to the
humidity of the air. To my inexpressible concern, from igno-
rance of this circumstance, and not taking precautions against
it, I lost a great part of the plants which I had collected at the
beginning of my stay. Leaving them half-dried when I went
for some days upon a distant excursion into the interior of the
country, at my return most of them were completely mouldy.
The nights are particularly damp ; but it must be observed,
that this seems to have no ill effect upon the health of the in-
habitants. This government, except the northern part about
San Francisco, is considered as extremely healthy. In the
part above alluded to, the vapours arising from some very
extensive marshes and standing waters are extremely preju-
dicial.

The manners and customs of the country do not partake
much of those to be observed in Portugal : they vary from
them particularly in the different customs and modes of life
which a different climate and different natural productions ine-
vitably occasion. In such a climate as Santa Catharina very
little clothing is required , the women, therefore, seldom wear
more in the house than the under garment and a thin gown
over it. The former is of fine linen or cotton, with a handsome
worked border round the bottom ; they commonly also wear a
muslin handkerchief. In company, in the evening, the ladies
appear dressed very much in the European style, but orna-
mented with great quantities of ribband and tinsel : the greater
the variety of colours worn, the more elegantly dressed they

«TAY AT SANTA CATHARINA. 41

esteem themselves. The men are equally clothed almost
entirely in the European style. The negro slaves go nearly
-without clothing ; the men wear only a culotte, and the women
a short petticoat, with perhaps an old shift, or some rags
fastened upon the shoulder, and hanging down over the
breast.

The number of negro slaves of both sexes to be seen here
appears very singular to the eyes of an European unaccustomed
to such a spectacle. It gave me a wholly new and very revolt-
ing sensation, when I went for the first time to Nossa Senhora
do Desterro, and saw a number of these wretched helpless
beings lying almost naked about the streets for sale. It is well
known that a great number of negroes are brought every year
from the Portuguese settlements in Africa, particularly from
Angola, Benguella, Mozambique, &c. to Brazil. These poor
creatures are, like all other animals, rated in their value
according to whether they be old or young, healthy or
unhealthy, strong or feeble, of the male or female sex ; if they
have had the small-pox the price is exceedingly enhanced.
Although I have, even in these modern days, heard this
traffic defended by many respectable men, according to my
ideas, it must be one highly revolting to the refined feelings
of an European. During the transport from Africa, great
numbers fall victims to the small-pox, to putrid fevers, or
to their sickly longing for their own country : this produces
a fixed melancholy, which few who are stricken with it ever
survive. A young healtliy negro costs in Brazil from a hun«
dred to a hundred and fifty Spanish dollars. If he be accus-
tomed to labour, or understands any mechanical trade, or if

M STAT AT SANTA CATHARINA.

he can speak the Portuguese language, his price is much in-
creased : he is paid for, in short, according to the talents he
possesses. A number of such slaves forms a valuable capital
to the owner of them: for it must be observed, that what-
ever they can earn, whether by bodily labour, or me-
chanical employments, is not their own, it all reverts to their
master ; they are let out by him to work, as an European
would let out a horse, at a stated price, by the day or
week.

It is these miserable creatures who cultivate the land, and
do all the most laborious work of every kind. The wealth of
the inhabitants is principally estimated by the number of slaves .
that each one possesses. The latter may esteem themselves
happy when they fall into the hands of merciful and humane
masters ; but woe to those whose lot is cast under harsh and
severe ones: they are sometimes treated in the most brutal
manner. Among such it often happens that the desire of
liberty, so natural to the heart of man, leads them to run away
upon the first favourable opportunity presented ; they con-
ceal themselves among the mountains, preferring, infinitely,
the life they lead there, feeding upon herbs, fruits, roots, and
such animals as they can kill in the chase, to smarting under
the lash of a barbarous tyrant. Under such circumstances,
they often associate themselves with the Indians of the interior,
and serve them as guides when they make the inroads already
mentioned into the settlements of the Europeans. In some
few cases, the ill-treatment of the slaves has wrought them
up to such a pitch of fury, that they have become the mur-
derers of their masters. Such an instance occurred a short time

STAT AT SANTA CATftARlNA. 4$

before our arrival at Santa Catharina. As the coast of Brazil is
very thinly peopled, the annual increase of industrious slaves
would be a real acquisition to the country ; and the govern-^
ment would therefore do wisely to pay great attention to having
them treated with humanity and kindness.

The products of the land, abundant and various as they are,
would prove an inexhaustible source of the richest commerce,
if trade were not embarrassed with many shackles. Every
other part of the colony is made subservient to Rio Janeiro, as
it is there alone that the inhabitants are allowed to sell their
commodities. Should this fine country become hereafter more
populous, and be less neglected by the government, it might,
from its superabundant natural riches, be made one of the most
important marts of commerce in Brazil. The cultivation of
cotton and coffee would produce immense gains. Rice and
sugar abound here, and yet there is a great want both of rum
and arrack. Indigo, pepper, vanilla, copaiva balsam*, and
various other objects, would grow without trouble. A number
of the finest sorts of wood for ship-building, and for making the
most costly household furniture, abound in the forests, and
would form very important articles of trade, if the exportation of
them were not prohibited. In the southern parts of the govern-
ment, namely, in Rio Grande, are to be found most of the

• The tree which yields the copaiva balsam, or balsam of tolii, copaifera officinalis^
\t here called olco breto, or black olive. Tt abounds in (he forests, but very little use is
made of it. I was assured, that when the incision is made in the tree to procure (he balsam,
which is done only in the very hot summer months, a strong sound is heard, and the sap
ox balsam rushes out in a stream, as when a vein is opened in the human arm.

i§- STAT AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

piquets of the milder parts of Europe: vines, for instance^
in abundance; but scarcely any persons concern themselves
with the cultivation of them.

>■' '!•!.•

■.i;»u.|>

Whoever is accurately acquainted with the nature of the
Portuguese government, must be surprised, in an establishment
where so much affluence reigns, to find so few ecclesiastics.
Permission has often been asked of the Court to build a convent
here; but the present governor, Don Joachim Xavier Curado,
has upon every such application strenuously opposed it, for
the very wise reason, that the monks, not contributing to the
population of the country, would prove in reality an obstacle
to its increasing in wealth and prosperity. Such an instance had
occurred only a short time before our arrival.

Of the peculiar customs and manners which I observed during
my stay at Santa Catharina, I will endeavour now to give some
idea. The inhabitants very often drink a tea, or an infusion
from the leaves of a plant known here by the name of herba do
matio, the galium moUugo of Linnaeus : this is as general here as
tea or coffee in most European countries. I could not procure
the plant which produces these leaves*; it does not grow in
the island of Santa Catharina, but is brought from the most
northern parts of the government, about San Francisco : the
leaves are transported hither in a long kind of baskets, which
hold from two to three pounds each. When they are to be
used, hot lyater is poured upon them ; the liquor is then SAveetened

* To judge by the textur« of the leavei, it appears to be an ilex; perhaps somewhat
TCicmbling the ilex vomitoriaf or Paraguay tea.

STAT AT SANTA CATHARINA. ^

with sugar, and served to the guests. In order that none of th«
leaves may come into the mouth, a little pipe is used, about six
inches long, and as thick as the shaft of a- tobacco-pipe, through
which the liquor is drawn up. Among the poorer class, the
shell of a cocoa-nut, o» of a species of gourd, probably the
cucurbita siceraria, is commonly used as a cup : sometimes,
however, a sort of cups are made of burnt clay, which are pre-
sented with a napkin ; the latter is made a part of the appurte-
nances, that the hand may not be molested by the heat of the cup.
Among rich people may be seen cocoa-nuts, finely carved and
lackered, while others have both the cup and the pipe of silver,
the workmanship of which is very neat, and instead of a napkin,
a saucer of the same metal. I was informed that the use of this
tea was introduced from the Spanish possessions, and that the
drinking it had been for a long time an universal, custom.

.; #^ ;'.'«'s:rr!:'j j '

'' J

Instead of fire-arms, the people of Santa Catharina make use
of a sort of bow, but they do not shoot with arrows. Some-
times they use small pebbles, sometimes balls made of hard
clay. It ia surprising to see with how much dexterity even
boys will use this weapon: they kill at a considerable distance,
with as much certainty as an European with his musket. Nor
is this merely a sport of youth to bring down small birds : I
have been assured that the aim is taken with so much cer-
tainty, that as many, even large bii'ds,.are brought home as they
carry out clay balls with them. This account appeared to
me so much the more credible, as I had in my excursions often
taken a youth with me as a guide, who used his bow with ex-
traordinary dexterity : and I once saw a boy only ten years old
take his aim at a butterfly which was perched upon a flower.

. 3>

46 STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

and blow the creature entirely to pieces. I observed another
shoot a particular orange which was pointed out to him from
the bough of the tree; and I repeatedly saw them destroy
the little colibris as they were hovering about the blossoms.
As a good gun from Europe is in Brazil a very dear and
costly weapon, and as powder can often not be procured at
any price, the manner of shooting here described is so much
the more valuable. For natural history, and particularly for
subjects of ornithology, it is particularly desirable, as all birds,
not excepting the smallest colibri, that I saw dispatched by it,
were not in any way shattered : they were killed merely by the
force of the blow received from the ball.

Another universal custom is to wash the feet with warm
water every night before going to bed. All persons of both
sexes, from the wealthiest land-proprietor to the lowest slave,
those that inhabit the most splendid mansions, as well as those
who live in the poorest cottages, observe this custom, only with
the difference, that the feet of the masters and their guests are
first washed by the slaves, and then the latter wash their own.
The principal reason of this universal custom arises from the
general practice among the poorer classes of going barefoot.
The day-labourers, and slaves who return home from their daily
labours, weary, and covered with dust and sweat, find it infinitely
reviving and refreshing: it besides is the most effectual pre-
ventive of the bad effects which might arise from the noxious
insects that get under the skin. The pulex penetrans, for ex-
ample, among negligent and careless people, going barefooted,
will burrow almost into the flesh, and finish by occasioning sores
of a very painful and pernicious kind. In the townofNossa

STAT At SANTA CATHARINA.

Senhora do Desterro, we were much struck by seeing persons
of the highest classes with ven long nails, particularly upon
the thumb : this was considered as i\ great ornament. Here, as
in many places in the East Indies, it is regarded as a mark of
distinction to have long nails, since it is a certain sign that the
hands cannot be employed in hard labour. ,

In our European towns we go in splendid equipages to make
visits of great ceremony, or to attend a wedding or christening.
In this little town of the new world, on such occasion a sort of
sedan chair is used, called cadeirinhas, in which the rich are
drawn in state by their negro slaves. They are not like our
sedan chairs, closed up with doors and glass windows, but rather
resemble an easy chair with a high back : they have a canopy,
round which is a curtain of scarlet cloth richly bordered with
gold fringe, and the whole, when the curtain is open, has very
much the appearance of a king's throne.

We had the satisfaction of solemnizing here the festival of the
New Year, and of participating in the pleasures which on this
occasion are allowed by the state. Nor was it a slight satis-
faction to see the poor negro slaves, who are kept so strictly to
work the whole year round, at this period allowed some days of
freedom, when they could seek their enjoyments after their own
fashion, and indulge in those national dances which are to thera
so great a source of delight. Although the best description of
these characteristic performances can be but imperfect, yet
will I endeavour to give some idea of them in the best manner
I am able.

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

Commonly the slaves rush into the street with great noise
and impetuosity ; but at this time it rainedjso hard that they
were constrained to solemnize their bacchanalian rites in cot-
tages ur public-houses. It was easy to discover where a ball was
going forwards, for the music, and the shouts of the dancers, might
be heard to a considerable distance. I say music, although no-
thing like any of our European wind or stringed instruments
was to be heard, not even a bagpipe. A monotonous cry, a
wild, noisy, yet measured kind of drumming, a sound like that
of hammering copper, a clapping of hands, distinguished the
place of assembly. In entering this seat of rejoicing, the not
very agreeable smell of so many negroes, shut up together in a
very confined space, heated with the exertions of dancing and
leaping, was sufficient to satisfy the curiosity of many, or rather
to frighten it entirely away. Mine was not so easily subdued :
the desire of seeing in South America a dance performed by
the swarthy natives of Africa, was superior to any repulsion
arising from the above-mentioned circumstance.

The king, or leader of the dance, was to be distinguished im-
mediately from the rest by his greater height and more athletic
form. He stood like a hero in the midst of his followers, who
were all collected in a circle round him. Instead of the helmet
of steel, his head was ornamented with gold paper and feathers :
instead of the iron breast-plate, his body glittered with bits of
glass, gold fringe, and spangles: suns, and stars of gold and
silver paper, appeared above all others the favourite ornament.
In his left hand he held a reed about two feet long, in which
were a great many notches pretty close to each other: on this

STAY AT SANTA CATHABINA. ]||

he scraped continually with a little stick which he held in
his riirht-hand. The rest of the dancers had either like sticks,
rattles, or little bells, any thing, in short, that would make
a clattering and noise. Instead of musicians, some of the
negroes sat in a corner of the room upon the ground, and
struck with their hands upon an ox-hide, which was stretched
over the hollow trunk of a tree, serving as a drum. The whole
company were ornamented with feathers and ribbands, and
wore diadems of gold paper. The faces of some were covered
with masks, those of the rest were smeared over in a frightful
and horrible manner, with red, white, and other colours.

Both negroes and negresses having formed a circle round the
king, afterwards began, first one, then another, according to
the degree of agility they possessed, to come forwards in the
circle as solo-dancers, when they made the strangest gestures
that can well hs conceived ; the rest sung, or screamed some
incomprehensible African soi^gs* They drew the hip and ankle-
bone with incredible celerity into a circle horizontally, while
the upper part of the body remained almost motionless, seem-
ing, as it were, to balance themselves upon the lower part;
the neck, the shoulders, and the back, were equally shaken
with such celerity, that they seemed to have every joint and
muscle about them perfectly at command. The greatest
dexterity was shewn by a half-naked negress, who united with
the most rapid movement of the hips a very exactly mea-
sured and equally rapid motion of the feet. Tlie distortions of
the countenance, the swelling out of the cheeks, and other
hideous gestures, seemed to constitute, according to the ideas
of these people, the perfection of the performances. After

STAY AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

awhile, the sweat arising from their exertions mixing itself
with tiie dyes that smeared the swarthy bodies of the dancers,
and ninning down together, occasioned a variety of shadings
truly ludicrous, and more easily conceived than described.

The principal object of these dances consists in representing
the common occupations of life, as fishing, hunting, fighting^
&c. ; and they are represented with so much fidelity, that our
European ballet-dancers might here learn lessons of expression.
When we consider the natural warmth of the climate, united
with the artificial warmth of so many people shut up together in
a confined space, and both combined with that arising from the
violence of their exertions, one cannot be enough astonished to
see for what a length of time together the dancing is con-
tinued.

In the night before the feast of Epiphany, it is the custom
for lovers to serenade their beloved, and friends to serenade
each other. We had not been previously apprised of this
custom, and were not a little astonished at being waked in
the middle of the night with a sweet and melodious song,
accompanied by flutes and guitars. The effect of this soul-
enchanting art, particularly in the middle of the night, must
be well known to all who hav6 experienced it, and they will
easily conceive the pleasing impression made upon us by the
charms of these soft tones on our yet but half-awakened
senses. On the following morning we learnt that this was
intended as a mark of friendship and good-will, as a token how
much we had acquired, during our short stay, the esteem and
respect of the inhabitants.

STAY AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

I was no less surprised than rejoiced to learn from the
governor, that there was a person in tlie country wlio had for
several years occupied himself exceedingly in collecting insects.
Anxious to avail myself of a circumstance which might prove
of so much advantage to me in my own pursuits, I immediately
intreated his Excellency to introduce me to the acquaintance of
this brother collector. But here a difficulty arose, as he did
not live in the island, but upon the continent, at the distance
of a full German mile, and the governor was not very well
acquainted with the precise place of his abode. He, however,
very obligingly took great pains to inquire him out, and I
had soon the pleasure of a visit from him. My first business
was to intreat him to point out to me the parts where I might
obtain the richest harvest for my collection, and to solicit
permission to accompany him in some of his excursions; both
which requests he complied with in the most obliging manner.

The very same day, at his invitation, I quitted Nossa
Senhora do Desterro, to accompany him to his own habitation
on the continent, which we reached at five o'clock in the
evening *. It was a small house, situated in a most charming
and fertile landscape, about a hundred paces from the shore. A
considerable tract of land belonging to him afforded ample
means of providing for the wants of himself and his family.
Three slaves, eight cows, a number of swine, fowls, ducks, and
turkies, constituted his household, the guard of which was

* For the information of futqr* traTelieri, it nsy not be amin to g'ire the name and
addreis of this worthy man. Senhor Matheot Lardoto Caldeiro, nos carrieros Freguesia
Sao Jot9f Govirno d« JIha Sanf Catharina,

II 2

STAY AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

delegated to several very fine and watchful dogs. His wife, an
industrious active woman, and very well instructed in all the
departments of domestic management, kept a school for girls,
and liad a house full of young pupils. At my, entrance, I found
them all at their respective employments ; some were spinning,
others sewing, others knitting, others learning to read and
spell ; such a general appearance of order and industry, in
short, reigned among them, that it made the most pleasing
and interesting impression upon me, and gave me the highest
opinion of my new hostess.

She received me in a very hospitable and friendly manner
ac(,ording to the customs of the country, and to her own con-
fined means. Two daughters, already grown up, who seemed,
for their situation, to have been extremely well educated, sung,
at the conclusion of the day's work, upon my request, some
very pleasing and expressive airs ; and as they could not play
upoa any janusical instrument, a?ccompanied their singing in
a very peculiar manner. They had in their hands a bivalve
shell, in which was inclosed a small pebble, which they shook
in a regular manner, so as to mark the time : it resembled
somewhat the Spanish castagnettes, and produced by no means
an unpleasing effect..

This agreeable entertainment concluded, they both absented
themselves awhile, and at their return brought me, the one
figs, the other flowers, which they had gathered in their own
garden. Their whole demeanour was replete with rural inno-
cence and kindness. It was a fine moonlight evening, and the
good father proposed a walk upon the sea-shore, which I

STAV at SANTA CATHARINA.

accepted with the greater pleasure, as we were ta be accom-
panied by the two daughters.

At our return, we found an excellent supper set out,
which the good mother had been in the mean time preparing.
The bananas " were dressed in a way wholly new to me,
and which I thought particularly good. This fruit, the musa
sapientum of Linnaeus, may be eaten the whole year through.
It is, in truth, one of the most benevolent presents of nature,
furnishing a grateful, healthy, and nourishing food ; the fla-
vour may be best likened to a mixture of flour, sugar, but-
ter, and eggsi The fruit is eaten either raw, or boiled in
water only, or roasted in butter; dressed in the latter way,
it resembles very much an omelette or a pancake. The
evening was passed very pleasantly, and our grand excursion
was fixed to take place early on the following morning.

Before I went to bed, a slave brought me, according to
the custom mentioned above, a warm foot-bath, when he
washed, rubbed, and wiped my feet so softly, so gently, that
I must freely own I thought it a most refreshing, and grateful
ceremony. I have ever since found the same practice the
greatest refreshment possible when I have been fatigued. I
could not help thinking of the deceased Forster as I was
going through this operation. He says, that the best remedy
he ever found for reviving his wearied muscles, and restoring
them to their elasticity, was, when the daughter of his host,
who excelled all the beauties of Otaheite in the clearness of
her complexion and the regularity of her features, rubbed his
arms and legs gently with her delicate hands, and pressed the

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

muscles softly between her fingers*. I must confess, that
whatever pleasure I received from the friction by the negro
slave, I should have felt ten times greater, if, instead of him,
the daughter of my host would have condescended to be my
attendant. The effect of this operation is indeed not very
ditjferent from that of animal magnetism.

On the following morning, at day-break, after an excellent
"breakfast of bananas and milk, which I preferred to coffee,
we set out upon our excursion. It was never extended more
than a German mile from the house ; and a little before even-
ing we returned richly laden with butterflies and other insects.
I, for my part, took every thing that came in my way, and
filled four middling-sized boxes, which were carried by a boy
whom I had taken with me for the purpose, with the most
beautiful, and to me very rare objects. My conductor brought
home only one box full, he being much more select as to what
he caught than myself. After I had refreshed myself with a
very hearty and excellent meal, I expressed a wish to return
the same evening to Nossa Senhora do Desterro, as I had no
more boxes with me for farther excursions. My friendly host
immediately sent fo** one of his slaves, and ordered his own
boat to carry me over ; he, indeed, accompanied me himself
to the island, though purely out of politeness, as he had no
real business there.

In some of our future excursions together, he carried me to
the hill of Sertao das Picadas, and to the stream of Ribeirao,

* Sec the account of a Toyage of JiscOTery to the South Sea by Captaia George Foiitex.

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA. 55

about two German miles and a half inland. These my con-
ductor assured me were the principal places for finding large
and rare butterflies ; and here we collected, among others, the
adonis crameri, epi»trophus weberi, heknoris crameri, lysimnia,
februa hqffmanseggi, thoas, archidamas, and many others equally
uncommon and beautiful .

We always set out at day-break. A Portuguese boy, whom
I hired for the purpose, carried the boxes and the necessary
refreshments ; and I had my nets, my needles for fastening the
insects when caught, botanizing boxes, knives, and other tools.
At every step I took, as I left behind me the sea-coast already
so well explored, and which I thought had yielded me so rich
a harvest, and approached the forests, as yet unknown to me, I
was in still greater astonishment, and could not contemplate
with sufficient transport the new and charming objects which
were at every moment presented.

Transported, enraptured with the beauties of nature, often
did I stop to enjoy them a few moments longer. My conductor
could not comprehend how I could feel so much delight at con-
templating objects with which he had been too long familiarized
to experience any thing like corresponduig sensations. The
admiration I expressed at the variety and stature of the gigan-
tic stems with crowns of flowers upon their 'leads, at the fra-
grance of the atmosphere, at the new forms and colours of the
fungi, at the size and extraordinary variety of the ferns*, at

* Sec •' Planter recMillies pendant le Voyage dcs Russes autoiir du monde par
Langsdorf ct Fischer." Tubingen, clioa Cotta, 1810. Fol. arcc d«s figures.

86 STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

every object, in short, that I beheld around me, excited more
astonishment in him than the things themselves. Instead of
cocoa and banana trees, of coffee, sugar, rice, and cotton-
plants : instead of fields of tapioca and earth-nuts, the sight of
wliich had so often enchained me on the sea-shore, my eye now
endeavoured to pierce through dark, shady, and almost impene-
trable forests. Here were olives, fig-trees, the cedrus odorata or
mahogany tree, beroba, garabisi, garaberi, garaxuba, garabrura*,
and others, all with the thickest, liighest, and most upright
stems, with the most luxuriant foliage, and with their branches
covered with fruit or flowers ; it seemed impossible sufficiently
to admire them. Nor was I less delighted with the infinite
variety of climbing plants which wound about these superb
trees nearly to their summits, forming the finest natural gar-
lands.

Bountiful nature, who bere far exceeds all ideas ever con-
ceived of her fertility, of the brilliance of colouring and beauty
of form among her productions, of her delights and riches, has
animated these forests with an endless variety of living crea-
tures. Wild beasts, birds, insects, and reptiles, which we
Europeans seldom see even in large collections of natural his-

* I cannot insert more than the names of these, for to hare obtained the leave*
or flowers, the tree itself must have been cut down. A botanist who would stay
here, not days or weeks, but years, and go upon his excursions with an axe and
bill, would be richly rewarded by the discovery of many new genera and species in
the vegetable kingdom.

The Translator is obliged to give the fire latter names as they stand in the ori-
giniil, not being able to find them in any iictionary, so as to insert them under either the
li)n^lish or botanical names.

STAY AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

tory, either stuffed or preserved in spirits, are here presented
to -the eye at every moment in living forms. I have seen on
one side parrots of various sizes and colours flying about with
loud and discordant screams, while on the other the large-
beaked toucan ramphastos, unsuspicious of any treachery,
was eating the fruit of a neighbouring tree wholly unknown
to me. Deeper in the forest, I heard the cries of monkies, and
at my feet were holes of the armadillo. Here a brisk butterfly,
as large as a bird, fluttered from flower to flower : there a lovely
colibri sucked the honey from the odoriferous blossoms. The
venomed snake, gliding along the narrow foot-way, terrified
the wanderer, and made him half insensible to the heavenly
harmony of thousands of singing birds, whose notes were cal-
culated at once to charm the ear, and enliven the heart.

Among such transporting pictures, which seemed almost
like the illusions of a dream, did we one day wander till
we came to the ridge of a steep hill composed of a moist and
red argillaceous earth, when suddenly I was surprised anew
by seeing a fine and extensive valley spread before me. We now
exchanged the cool shade of the forest for an open region,
where we were constantly exposed to the burning rays of the
sun : along this we had proceeded some way, when we found the
stomach begin to be very importunate for a share of our atten-
tion. In our route hitherto, which exceeded a German mile,
we had met with only a single miserable house ; so miserable
that it could not even furnish us with a little milk. Farther
in the valley, at about ten o'clock in the morning, we came
to another small hut or cottage. It was not provided with any
of the dainties of an European kitchen, but we found an

58 STAY AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

excellent water-melon, wliich the good people gave us very
freely, though it was the only one in the house : they besLtles
set before us a gourd-shell full of tapioca-ineal. The rest of
our repast was made out with bread and a glass of brandy, both
of whicli we had providently brought with us. Our hosts
would not accept any payment, but we presented them with
some bread, which seemed very acceptable, as it is a thing
the common people of this country seldom taste.

Exceedingly refreshed, we proceeded on our walk, pene-
trating still farther and farther into the valley. We had'
already reached the bound of our that day's excursion, the
river Ribeirao, when my conductor desired me to lake off
my boots and stockings, and follow him. Though this proposal
did not please me very much, principally because I had the
jdea of venomous serpents fresh in my mind, jet no choice was
left me but to comply, or leave my curiosity unsatisfied ; for
the only possible means of penetrating into the thickest part of
the forest was by following the .sii« am in its course through )!:.
The boots and stockings were accordingly Ui'tn oif and left
upon a bush, and we waded along up to the knees in the crys-
talline flood. We had scarcely proceeded ten steps, when we
were surrovmdea by an indescribable number of beautiful
butterflies, and my conductor had sufficitat employment in
sticking 1 11 t\v^. I caught. As it was not, however, our pur-
pose to jndertake this walk merely ♦<:« obtain what might
equally n.ve been procured upon the sea-coast, we rather
reserved ourselves for the more important objects we aad in
view; ant!, like the huntsman, who watches for the game in
the snare, waited at a little distance frona each other with ouv

•i'H

STAY AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

51»

net spread, the arrival of the more rare and costly game of
which we were in search. It was not long before the beautiful
adonis and epistrophus weberi appeared. The first rose high
into the air with a rapid flight, its glittering wings shining in
the distance like some brilliant metal ; the second, with a proud
and majestic air, as if mocking the levity of the other, bent its
slow course solemnly over the stream. The sun fell with
almost perp ndicular rays upon our heads, while our feet
were one moment plunged in the cool water of the river, then
in the hot puddles of the surrounding bog.

My conductor being better accustomed to this sort of
insect hunting than myself, seemed to prosecute it without
feeling the least inconvenience ; but for my part, after remain-
ing here for some hours, my feet, from having been so long
naked, sometimes in the cool water, at others in the burning
puddles, began to smart and turn red as if they had been
scalded, nay, even to swell. We had come in the intention
of staying in this spot, so rich in the objects we sought, till the
following day ; but this idea I wa^ now constrained to aban-
don, lest on the following day I should not be able to stir.
We therefore set out on our return, and notwithstandins' the
constantly increasing swelling of my feet, reached the dwelling
of my host late in the evening, exceedingly fatigued, but
richly rewarded in the number, the beauty, and variety of the
new objects we brought away with us. Indeed, I had good
reason to consider this as one of the most delightful and most
memorable days of my stay in Brazil.

In all my excursions I found the people of the country

STAY AT SANTA CATIIAllINA.

truly hospitable and obliging. Wherever I presented myself,
the family were eager to produce all which their little stores
could furnish to satisfy my hunger. Sometimes I pro-
cured a fowl, some eggs, milk, fish, or bananas, oranges, and
water-melons ; at other times I was obliged to be contented
with tapioca or dried beans. In the latter case, however,
though the fare was not sumptuous, I found the truth of the
old saying, that a good appetite is the best sauce.

As in this season of the year scarcely a day passes without
rain, it sometimes happened that I was obliged to seek
shelter from that and the thunder in the first cottage I could
find ; and being not unfrequently wet through before I could
reach any place of shelter, the good people always pressed
me, unasked on my part, to accept dry linen, and were assi-
duous in wiping and washing any part of my dress that had
been dirtied. If occasionally I could not reach the ship, or my
dwelling in the town, before night, they were always ready to
give me a night's lodging, such as their situation would afford ;
and if it generally was but ordinary, it was always clean. The
bed was commonly nothing moic than one or two thin straw mats
spread upon the ground; but there were always clean sheets and
a soft pillow : a light cotton covering completed the furniture.
However hard and inconvenient such a bed appeared at first, I
soon grew accustomed to it, and learnt an useful lesson how
little is necessary to satisfy the real wants of man, and how
tender he is made by a high degree of what we call cultiva-
tion.

The same straw mats that serve for the bed, or similar

STAY AT SANTA CATIIARLVA.

ones, are spread at dinner by way of table ; they are co-
vered with a cloti). The whole family lie down round the
mat, the men stretched at full length, resting one arm on a
little pillow ; but the women, after the oriental fashion, with
their feet crossed one over the other, in the way that tailors sit
among us. The use of chairs is almost as little known in the
country as that of tables.

I have already mentioned the tapioca, or mandioca root,
which the common people use instead of bread, and will here
therefore only mention the manner in which it is eaten. The
shell of a small gourd cut in halves and dried, full of this
tapioca meal, is brought upon the table, with some wooden
spoons, while, by way of bread, some of the dried root is
eaten with it, or perhaps mixed into the dish ; each person
dips his spoon in, and eats as much as he likes. I was exceed-
ingly struck with seeing a lady of consequence at Nossa Sen-
hora do Desterro take some of this tapioca-meal at dinner,
and after mixing it with her other food, eat the mixture with
her fingers, without seeming to think that she had done any
thing improper or unbecoming. In consequence of this custom
of eating M'ith the fingers, it is a constant practice to bring water
to wash the hands and mouth at the conclusion of dinner.
This is done even in the poorest and meanest houses; and
equally, when, instead of eating with the fingers, nothing but
the spoon has been used during the whole meal.

The houses of the land cultivators are small, but convenient,
and generally placed in fine situations. The interior usually
consists of a sitthig room, one or two chambers, and a kitchen.

STAY AT SANTA CATIIARIXA.

The latter is soiuetiiut's in a separate luiildiug with a chaiul)er
over it, appropriated to the negro slaves. Atnoiig the richer
cultivators, the principal room has a boarded lloor, but this is
not the ( Mse with the poorer ; few are covered with tiles ; the
greater part are only thatched, as it were, with palm-leaves, from
a sort of palm probably not yet known to us. Villages, as
among Europeans, there are i^w, or rather none : the houses
are scattered singly over the country, some at a greal^a-, some
at a less distance from each other. Every land proprietor has
his possessions immediately round his house. Most of the
dwellings lie near the sea-coast, and are surrounded with
orange-tices, coffee, baimna, and cotton plants. In the neigh-
bourhood of each house is commonly to be seen a crystal foun-
tain under the shade of an orange-tree.

The little boats hollowed from the trunk of a single tree,
which are used by the inhabitants for fishing, and for their
intercourse with the continent, are commonly from twenty-four
to thirty-two feet long, and about three feet broad. They lie
along the siiore, not shut up or watched, only drawn under a
sort of sheds, to keep them from the rain and the burning sun.
Every where I observed among the people simplicity, con-
fidence, and hospitality. They are seldom devoted to one
particular branch of mechanical occupation, but, as true cosmo-
polites, understand a little of all, and each one practises the dif-
ferent mechanical arts for himself, as far as he has occasion
for them. He is his own butcher, carpenter, joiner, tailor,
fisherman, huntsman, &c. &c. ; many are, among other things,
weavers.

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IMAGE EVALUATION
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Sciences
Corporation

1.25 1.4

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 873.4503

^ •

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STAT AT SANTA CATHARFNA.

«a

As to what concerns the arts, knowledge, and the public
institutions, not much is to be expected. The tools for
mechanical works, the implements of husbandry, the house«
hold furniture and utensils, are poor and inconvenient. Pos-
sibly the government may intentionally prevent the people
becoming much enlightened, lest they should in the end grow
too well aware of their own power, and bidding defiance to the
little kingdom of Portugal, shake off their yoke entirely.

If any individual of greater activity and ingenuity than the
rest endeavours to distinguish himself by the introduction of
new objects of industry and wealth, instead of being sup*
ported by the higher powers, he always finds them throwing
obstacles in his way. Such was particularly the case with a man,
who sometime since endeavoured to establish a manufactory
of indigo, and for this purpose had procured a quantity of the
plants ; but for want of support from the government, he was
obliged, in the end, to abandon the scheme. The manner of
making brandy, and the apparatuses for distilling, must be very
imperfect : the latter I did not see, but I judge from the very
indifferent quality of the rum. I do not know that the islan*
ders ever attempt making arrack from their rice, but it is cer-
tain that they might have both rum and arrack of a very supe-
rior quality, and in abundance, for exportation. Instead of
this, brandy is even brought hither from Lisbon, and under the
name of aqua ardente do reino, sold very dear.

iFor separating the cotton wool from the seeds, a very incon-
venient machine is used, consisting of two cylinders working
against each otber, and which require two people every time to

■I*

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

As to what concerns the arts, knowledge, and the public
institutions, not much is to be expected. The tools for
mechanical works, the implements of husbandry, the house-
hold furniture and utensils, are poor and inconvenient. Pos-
sibly the government may intentionally prevent the people
becoming much enlightened, lest they should in the end grow
too well aware of their own power, and bidding defiance to the
little kingdom of Portugal, shake off their yoke entirely.

If any individual of greater activity and ingenuity than the
rest endeavours to distinguish himself by the introduction of
new objects of industry and wealth, instead of being sup-
ported by the higher powers, he always finds them throwing
obstacles in his way. Such was particularly the case with a man,
who sometime since endeavoured to establish a manufactory
of indigo, and for this purpose had procured a quantity of the
plants ; but for want of support from the government, he wa«
obliged, in the end, to abandon the scheme. The manner of
making brandy, and the apparatuses for distilling, must be very
imperfect : the latter I did not see, but I judge from the very
indifferent quality of the nini. I do not know that the islan-
ders ever attempt making arrack from their rice, but it is cer-
tain that they might have both rum and arrack of a very supe-
rior quality, and in abundance, for exportation. Instead of
this, brandy is even brought hither from Lisbon, and under the
name of aqua ardente do reino, sold very dear.

— Tor separating the cotton wool from the seeds, a very incon-
venient machine is used, consisting of two cylinders working
against each otber, and which require two people every time to

C4 STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

move thein. The looms for weaving are quite in their infancy*
and the mills are very defective. Yet among so many indif-
ferent objects, I must not omit to observe, that I saw some ex-
cellent pottery manufactured at Nossa Senhora do Desterro. A
fine red and black argillaceous earth, both of which abound in
the country, are used for this manufactory, and the different
articles are so well made tliat they are even exported to Rio
Janeiro, and llio Grande. There is also a very good tile
manufactory. Concerning the sugar-boiling I could not obtain
any particular information.

■^-'- ■' '.■'■ ^" - , ■ -I

The whale-fishery, however, and the manufactory of train-
oil, in this government, deserve to be especially mentioned.
This branch of industry was formerly carried on by a company
to whom it was farmed out, and was very profitable ; but for
some years past the administration have taken it into their own
hands. Perhaps the farmers, from the diminution in the number
of fish taken every year, found it, latterly, not a sufficiently
advantageous speculation ; or more probably the government,
by restraining the fishery, hoped to increase their gains. Be
this as it may, the whale-fishery, even as it is now carried on,
and the manufactory of train-oil, form a very considerable
branch of the national industry, and support some thousands
of souls, particularly the negro slaves.

The regulations for the fisheries are as follows. That of Villa-
Nova has its warehouses in the parish of Villa-Nova ; that of
the island has its warehouses on the south-east side of Santa
Catharina; that of the Entrada has the warehouses at the
northern entrance of the Strait, and that of Rio do Gravato, has

»^

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA. ^.

warehouses upon the same river. The warehouses of the Eu-
trada, at the north-west point of the island, being the nearest
to us, I took an opportunity of visiting them, accompanied by
some others of our party. In the last winter, that of 1803, no more
than ten of the spermaceti whales, physeter macrocephalus^ were
caught: and the overseer assured me that this was the only
sort of whale ever taken here. The largest, according to his
account, do not exceed thirty-five feet in length ; the generality
run about twenty-four feet ...„..>,,.

The fishery is extremely well regulated. Two or three boats
go out in the morning, and return back in the evening. They
never run farther than the island of Alvoredo: the whales
sometimes come even into the Strait. At the commencement
of this institution, four hundred fish were not unfrequently taken
in a winter: the greatest number ever known to have been
caught in one season was five hundred. When we consider the
produce of so large a number, some idea may easily be formed
of the quantity of vessels, of furnaces, and other things neces-
sary for the manufactory, that must have been provided here.
The profits of a manufactory, which had taken five hundred
whales, might be estimated at three hundred and forty-six thou-
sand rix-dollars, clear gain. The quantity of fish taken, however,
and consequently the profits, decrease every year: this has
been more especially the case since the English, and the spe-
culative heads in the United States of America, have begun to
pursue the fishery in these parts, particularly in the neighbour-
hood of Falkland's Islands. But perhaps the principal reason
for the decrease of the whale-fishery is, the government having
taken it into their hands. Every one knows with how much

STAY AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

assiduity individuals will seek their own emolument, and wite
what negligence the very same objects are pursued if the
direction of them, in behalf of the public, is consigned to
men who have no eventual interest in the concern but being
well paid, think much more about receiving their stipends
than of advancing the prosperity of the undertaking. Besides
the warehouses above-mentioned, there are others on the more
southern parts of the coast of Brazil, about Rio Grande, but
the number of them I could not exactly ascertain. > •

Vy-

If I only subjoin a few cursory medical observations, it must
be understood that I do not offer my remarks in general as
any thing more than cursory and detached ones. No person of
candour and judgment can expect a circumstantial history of
diseases from a stranger who resides a few days, or perhaps
weeks, in a place, and who can therefore never obtain more than
a superficial knowledge of the climate, the domestic economy
of the inhabitants, their customs and modes of life ; all of which
have so essential an intfuence on the constitution, and of course
on the maladies to which the human frame is subjected ; who
besides, perhaps, cannot gain the confidence of the inhabitants
«o far as that they will communicate freely with him ; nay,
who cannot even be sure that they will not studiously conceal
many circumstances, or represent them under false colours. I
shall confine myself, therefore, to stating the few following facts.

'»

The medical oracle of the island, -and indeed of the whole
government, is an army surgeon, who lives at NossaSenhora do
Desterro, and who has the superintendance of two hospitals, a
general and a military one. Though these hospitals aie well

"•^

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

situated, and appear tolerably spacious, yet if, unfortunately,
putrid fevers or other malignant diseases break out in them, it
happens, as in most European hospitals, that too many of the
sick are crowded together, so as to endanger tlie increasing,
rather than lessening the ravages of the disease. In a gallery of
the military hospital, which is scarcely large enough for fifty
beds, I saw eighty crammed together. I cannot forbear ob-
serving, besides, that the great cleanliness which I had in
general remarked and admired, all over the island, failed very
much here, where it was particularly desirable. Though this
province is generally considered as extremely healthy, yet some
years before a contagious disorder prevailed, to which several
thousand persons fell victims. According to the best informa-
tion I could collect upon the subject, it seems to have been a
dysentery, accompanied with putrid fever. Notwithstanding
that the loss of several thousand lives, in a colony so thinly
peopled, is irreparable, it was not sufficient to rouse the apathy
of the Portuguese government, and induce them to establish
in the island persons properly instructed and experienced in
the medical art. , _-- ....,,.„.,.

The only remedies administered by the practitioners here, are
cathartics, en^tics, and phlebotomy. The common people
have a number of domestic remedies, which are scarcely less
pernicious than bad medical advice. In Nossa Senhora do
Desterro are three houses which bear the title of apothecaries*
shops : the owners of them profess to have a large stock of me-
dical drugs, but the fact is, that they have not even the medi-
cines produced by their own country. One might ask in vain
for some ounces of copaiva balsam, or ricinusol. The small-

* k2

STAY AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

pox i» a very dreadful and dangerous disease, particularly
among the negro slaves : when it breaks out, it commonly
costs the lives of thousands. Inoculation is a thing of which
the people here have no idea ; and that most precious gift of
heaven, the vaccine inoculation, is hardly known even by name.
Cutaneous diseases are very frequent in this country, as in
all equally hot, and appear under various forms and modifi-
cations. The itch, and other eruptions of the skin, are to
be seen in the most distinguished families, and among the
poor there is scarcely a house free from them. They do not
seem, however, to be communicated by the touch, as no in-
fection was ever taken by any of our ship's company. The
syphillitic virus is but too widely spread, owing to circum-
stances which may be considered as invariably attendant upon a
warm climate. . . ,.

4'. )}

A very common evil here is the sores that arise from the
pulex penetrans, or sand ftea^ as it is called . This is a small
insect, which burrows into the skin of persons going bare-
footed, and announces itself by occasioning an itching and
smarting sensation. If the sting be not early attended to, and
the animal taken out, it will make its way even into the flesh,
and occasion swelling and sores very difficult to be healed. The
slaves, who always go bare-footed to their field-work, are par-
ticularly subject to this inconvenience : it was experienced by
most of our party, who went about in thin silk stockings, or
even without any covering upon their feet. With two of them,
the itching and smarting continued for six weeks, long after we
had quitted Brazil, when we had even doubled Cape Horn. If,
however, as soon as the itching is felt, people are careful to

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA (J9

extract the animal in the same manner that they would a thorn
or splinter of wood, no ill effects will arise; if left, a large
family may soon be expected.

It is extraordinary, that most of the native women here
have very bad teeth, although those who are borr of Portu-
guese parents are distinguished for beautiful ones. Many young
girls, not more than fifteen or sixteen years old, may be seen
with one or more of their front teeth entirely gone. May
not this effect be produced by the tapioca-meal, which consti-
tutes so essential a part of their food ? As a remedy against
head-ache, it is common to rub the forehead and temples over
with a red earth mixed with water. The countenances of the
negroes, painted in this way, as I have often seen them, have
a truly singular and comic appearance. , ff-\mi*HrM'^*'i-j

^ -' In a country where experienced physicians are not to be
found, it is little to be expected that midwifery should be
practised by instructed persons. The practitioners in this
<? ipr^rtment of science are old women, who have had many
chiHren themselves, and thus from experience have acquired a
sort of substitute for knowledge. According to the account
given me by many different persons, uimatural labours are not
by any means uncommon, and many women lose their lives in
consequence of them : far more instances of the kind occur here
than is usual in warm climates. The women in this country, as
well as in Spain and Portugal, are extremely fruitful, nor is it
unusual to find families of fifteen or even twenty children. All
the streets and roads are full of children, and it is well known
that the population of Brazil increases rapidly. When we

70 STAY AT SANTA CATRARINA.

reflect how abundantly the people of the country are provided
with the means of supporting their children, and that with
very little labour, it will not appear surprising that the families
arc so numerous. The children are fed in their infancy very
much with bananas. Many mothers endeavour to retain
their milk, and suckle their infants as long as possible :
children even of three or four years old may occasionally be
seen at the breast. This is done, according to the confes-
sion of the women themselves, to delay as long as possible any
farther increase of their family.

fit?

The natural history of the country, according to the plan I
have followed, is so interwoven with the account of my travels,
that little more remains to be said except to subjoin a few
observations, which I trust will be found of general interest.

However charming the forests appear, however delightful
the country, yet there are a number of venomous reptiles,
which occasion the walking about not to be entirely free
from danger. Of these, the most noxious are the coluber corai-
linus, or coral snake, and the xiraracca*. The coral snake is
the most poisonous of all. The inhabitants cannot speak
of the bite without terror, as certain death. This serpent
moves very slowly, somewhat in the manner of our anguis
fragilis, or blind worm. In the open field, or upon the sea-
shore, it may easily be avoided or killed. I have several times

* The Trsnilator has not been able to procure any explanation of thi< Portugneie
name for the serpent here mentioned^ and it therefore obliged to call it only by the naoe
given in the original. '

*■

STAT AT SANTA CATHARINA. Tf

killed them myself. They endeavour to avoid man when they
see him approach. The great danger of being bitten by them
is in going barefooted into the thick forests, wlien they may
be concealed among the leaves, and a person may tread upon
one unawares. The consequences of the bite are a sudden
swelling of the whole body, and a rushing of blood from the
nose, ears, eyes, and ends of the fingers. They are seldom
more than an ell and a half long *. The xiraracca is also ex-
tremely venomous, and many persons have died of the bite ;
but it is not considered as such certain death as that of the
coral snake. This snake is sometimes between two and three
ells long. When I inquired whether there was no counter-
poison against the bite of these serpents, I was answered that
there were many persons who could pronounce a blessings and
that this was the best remedy. Reasonable people have, how-
ever, found burning the wound of great utility. >- <i .^ <•, ,

m
Often in the evening, particularly in low marshy grounds,
the air will be filled in places, fura circle of twelve or fifteen
paces, with a smell exactly like that of musk. This I had several
times remarked, and was anxious to investigate the cause
of it. The universal popular opinion is, that it arises from
the xiraracca. I must leave it to future travellers to
determine whether this be in any, and in what degree,

* It is to b« presumed, that by this measure is meant the Flemish ell, which is three
^jiiarters of an English yard, or two fuct three inches. In Nemnich's Dictionary of
Natural History, the coluber corallinus is mentioned as more than three feettong, which
corresponds with the measnrc given by the author^ taking it fof the Flemish elL—TxAx.

72 STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

true. It is possible tliat nature, by occasioning the animal to
emit such a smell, means to warn man against the approach
of a formidable enemy, as by the rattle it warns him against
the most pDisonous of all serpents. 1 must, however, ob-
serve, that I have myself killed and skinned many, and never
perceived any thing of the pungent odour which I had often
experienced in my evening walks in the fields. If it did in-
deed proceed from the animal, I know not why it should be
exhaled in the evening only, and not at any other time. In
my opinion, the origin of the smell is to be sought in some
cause different from the vicinity of the xiraracca. , ^r;,. . :,...

The bird spider, aranea avicularis, is very common. This
name was given to it because it has been said that it eats the
humming-birds ; but the notion appears wholly unfounded.
This spider does not make any web ; it lives in holes under
ground, which it only leaves in very warm sunshine, and never
goes many paces from them. It moves almost like a crab,
and thence has the Portuguese name caranguexeira, or crab-
spider. I myself caught three, and fourteen other specimens
were brought to me, so that I had suificient opportunities
of making myself acquainted with their structure, and judg-
ing therefore somewhat of their habits and the nature of their
food. If I asked the people of the country whether these
spiders ever eat the colibris, they answered me in the nega-
tive with a smile, assuring me that they feed upon nothing
but insects, such as flies, ants, bees, wasps, beetles, and the
like, and this assurance was confirmed by niy own investi-
gations. The structure of the mouth is sufficient to decide
that the idea can be only a popular prejudice, as it is cal-

&TAT AT SANTA CATIIARINA.

culaled merely for suction, so that at tlie utmoHt it could
only suck the blood of the little creature. The colibris hover
about from flower to flower; how should they, therefore, ever
come in contact with a spider that only crawls upon the ground ?
the latter is, besides, very slow in its movements, and upon
this principle alone could never overtake the brisk and active
colibri. It is difficult to conceive how the idea was ever enter-
tained of giving this animal a bird as its principal food. The
bite is not mortal, or even dangerous, but will occasion con-
siderable smart. The hair, with which the body is entirely
covered, by merely touching the skin creates a painful kind of
smarting and itching, as I more than once experienced in only
tbuching, in order to preserve them. The creature appears to
have very little strength in his muscles to defend himself
against an enemy. This spider, as well as many other insects
and plants, is not to be found in the island of Santa Catharina)
but abounds upon the continent, particularly in a district called
Os Barreiros, where a great deal of Turkish corn is grown.

At the beginning of summer, only a few- small butterflies
of several sorts appear : the largest and most beautiful do not
come out till the great heat of summcF is over. Although I was
extremely satisfied with the collection I made here, my Portu-
guese friend, Senhor Caldeiro, assured me, that all these were
nothing in comparison with the beauty of several species that
appear in the months of February and March ; and, indeed,
the latter days of our stay were those in which I made the most
interesting captures. I observed, that in their nature and
habits, these superb creatures differed in many respects as much
from their brethren in Europe as in their exterior. They raise

STAY AT SANTA CATHARINA.

themselves with a light and rapid jflight into the air, and hover
about the blossoms of lofty trees ; they are shy and restless,
and settle so seldom upon the flowers, that they must in general
be caught in their flight. An amateur who uses here only the
flaps which he employs in Europe, would return home very
little satisfied with the produce of his labours. Large nets
are necessary, fastened to a long and light cane-staif. I recol-
lected on this occasion, a net for catching batterflies, which I
had seen some years before, at the house of a Mr. Latham, in
London, and had a similar one made immediately, which was of
very great use to me. I observed with the utmost astonish-
ment, in my excursions, a particular species, y*edrwa hofftnanseggi,
which, when it flew away from a tree, or when flying with the
female, made a very clear and distinct noise like a rattle, pro-
bably with its wings. This species lives in thick orange groves,
settling upon the stem, with its wings spread out, and from
being very much the colour of the tree, it is difficult to be dis-
cerned ; but when any one approaches, it flies away with the
rattling noise above described. The archidamas is a butterfly
which emits a soft and not oppressive smell of musk : it lives
upon flowers, and flies very quick and high.

Another phoenomenon I observed was, that a butterfly,
which I took to be the catilina crameri, through a very remark-
able opening in the breast-plate emitted a great quantity of a
sort of froth : this seemed employed as a means of defence against
its enemy, and resembled, in some sort, what is done by the ca-
terpillar of the machaon. Several species of the yellow diurnal
butterfly, wliich are here among the most common sorts, live in
.societies, and are seen in flocks of hundreds, nay thousands.

STAT AT SANTA CATHARINA. ||

together. Among these, the philea, the trite, the alcmeone, the
sennae, the eubuius, and the argante, may be particularized.
Their favourite abode is in low, sandy, and sometimes moist
districts, near rivers or brooks, where they often settle in large
flocks together upon the sand. Wlien one of these butterflies
is caught, if he is only stuck with a pin io the ground, he it
sure to be quickly surrounded by a number of his species, and
forty or fifty specimens may presently be acquired.

Not only upon the land, but in the water, the inhabitants of
this country find enemies unknown to us in Europe. In the
neighbourhood of Santa Catharina, and (particularly about the
island of Alvoredo, and ether islands in the same cluster, a very
large sort of sepia, the sepia ootopusy or polvo, is found. I was
assured that these creatures sometimes 'grow to -the size of a
man, and are very dangerous, since they will twine their suckew
round a person bathing, or fishing, in such a manner that it is
impossible to get free from them ; and if no one is at hand to
assist the person attacked by cutting the animal away, death is
inevitable. That a very large sepia may in this way become dan-
gerous to a man I can believe ; but that there is a species which
will, in the open sea, thus twine itself round a large three-masted
vessel, so as to draw it under the water, does not come within
the compass of belief*.

Very little fish was brought to market during our stay : the
principal reason was, perhaps, that from the burning heat of

* Histoir« NatursUe das moUusquet, pur Denyi Montfort. Pari*, Au. 10. Le poulpc
•oIoMal.

<^ STAT AT SANTA CATHARINA.

the sun it was liaHe to corrupt very soon. I remarked the
dorade coryphana hippurus, the sheat-fish silurus bagre, the scad
scomber trachurus, the cat-fish squalus zygcena, the sword-fish
trichurus lepturus, the pelamide scomber pelamySy some species of
thatodont of tctraodon, of sparus, of diodon, and several others ; a
catalogue of the names of which was made by Counsellor
Tilesius.

* •-■

The great number of still unknown animals, the investigation
of their habits and modes of life, under a heaven so remote from
our's ; the infinite riches and variety of the vegetable kingdom,
would furnish employment for hundreds of naturalists during a
long course of years. Our short stay, and the little effectual
support which Counsellor Tilesius and myself found in our re-
searches, compelled us to rest satisfied with the little knowledge
we could obtain by our own individual efforts. t

DEPAftTURE FROM BRAZIL. ^

I '-...f^ •«,, l.

CHAPTER in.

«•:- -■ y*;-. ;i-S./v.-

Departure from Brazil. — Voyage round Cape Hom.—EaHer Islandj-^
Arrival at Nukahiwa^ me of the Washington Islands. — Imprw-
, sions made at the first Sight of the Island.— Visit from the Natives.

By the end of January, the ships were ready to proceed on
the voyage. We were iiH refreshed with the luxurious living
we had enjoyed for some weeks : the whole crew of both ships
were in excellent health, and Captain Von Krusenstem had
laid in a large stock of fresh provisions of various kinds. On
the first of February, therefore, an order was issued for all who
had resided during this time at Nossa Senhora do Desterro to
repair on board, and we were obliged to quit one of the finest
and richest spots upon the globe. The recollection of my stay
in Brazil can never be erased from my memory, nor can I ever
recur to it but with delight. On the second of February, the
governor, who had shewn us great kindness and attention during
our stay, came on board with a number of other persons of both
sexes, to bid us adieu.

The captain thought it right to hasten our departure as much
as possible, as it was by no means desirable to saiL round Cape
Horn very late in the season. The frightful pictures given by
Commodore Anson of the passage round this Cape at an un-
favourable period, and the many hardships endured by Captains*

18 DBPAilTURe f AOM <9RAf ft.

Bligh, Wilson, and others, whose descriptions were now the
daily subjects of our conversation, rendered us all equally de-
sirous that no unnecessary delays should be made, so as to en-
danger our experiencing any thing similar.

Our departure had been fixed for the third of February ; but
on that day th^re came on so strong a gale of wind, that our
captain judged it prudent to remain in the harbour, and
wait a more favourable moment. On the fourth, in the after-
noon, the wind being sufficiently abated, the anchors of both
ships were weighed, and they were soon under sail with a fresh
breeze from the south. This day, and the next, the weather
was not very favourable ; it rained almost incessantly ; but the
breeze continuing, we were soon at a considerable distance from
the coast of Brazil. On the sixth, the weather changed; the
rain ceased, and we had a brisk wind from the east, -which
carried us on rapidly in a southerly direction, so that by
the ninth of February we were in the latitude of the Rio de la
Plata. Here a small vessel in the horizon, to the south-^wt,
attracted our attention ; but as it 'would have been idle to waste
time in satisfying our curiosity with regard to it, we contented
ourselves with leaving it to pursue its course quietly, and con-
tinued to pursue our's with great rapidity.

We found many new objects of various kinds to engage our
attention and observation, in regions hitherto so entirely tin-
known to us. The flying fish, the dolphins, the pelamides, the
dorades, the tropic-birds, and other inhabitants of the warmer
zone, were no longer to be seen : but we had sibatrosses, dio-

DEPARTURE FROM BRAZIL.

7»

medea exulans, peterels, procellaria, and whales, as our constant
companions. In the fortieth degree of southern latitude we
found a great quantity of a very particular sort oifucus, though
we were six hundred miles distant from the nearest land. The
whole crew of the Neva experienced, in the night of the twen-r
tieth of February, a most terrible alarm : the vessel received so
violent a shock, that they thought of nothing less than being
upon a rock or a sand-bank. They all rushed upon deck to
learn the whole extent of their danger, but were soon satisfied
with finding that it was nothing more than a whale, whether
dead or alive was very immaterial, against which they had
struck.

The wind, though variable, had been so generally favour-
able, that by the twenty-fifth of February we were in the neigh-
bourhood of Staten-land. This wild and uninhabited country,
whose steep and craggy mountains now bounded our horizon to
the south, afforded us, when the weatlier was clear, many agree-
able variations in the different aspects which it presented, as
seen at different paints of view. We clearly distinguished Cape
St. John, from which we were about thirty-three sea-miles dis-
tant. This promontory lies in 63° 47' western longitude, and is
a point of great importance to mariners, since its situation is
so well ascertained, that the greatest difference to be found
with regard to it, among the mos| experienced astronomers and
navigators, does not exceed a few minutes. This cape may
assist mercantile seamen, who have not always the best means
on board their vessels of ascertaining the longitude and latitude *,

* Witness the American Tessel mentionrd in page 27, which iras three degrees too
much to the west.

DEPARTURR FROM BRAZIL.

as a s..fe guide to correct their reckonings. It is of double impor-
tance in these parts, where the navigation is so dangerous, and
where, frequently, the prosperousdoublingofCape Horn depends
upon the longitude being ascertained with great precision. The
quantity of peterels and albatrosses increased the more we pro-
ceeded southwards, and the throwing up the water by the
whales, which appeared sometimes in the night as if it was surf
breaking over a concealed rock, was become so familiar to us,
that it almost ceased to be a subject of remark.

Here and there were to be seen stripes, or spots in the sea,
which from their glittering appearance, and the little movement
the water then had, were distinguishable at a very great dis-
tance. These spots proceeded from the fat and oily substances
emitted by the whales in their breathing, or from their excre-
ments, and shewed, in a remarkable manner, how little oil is
necessary to spread to a great extent over the surface of the
water. The idea, which I believe originated with Dr. Franklin,
that the waves of the sea, when violently agitated, might be
stilled with oil, was probably borrowed from this circum-
stance.

The almost constantly favourable wind, by which we had
been so rapidly carried forwards from Santa Catharina, in-
creased our hopes, and aniii^ted our wishes, that we should
now, in a few days, have doubled Cape Horn. But, alas! we
had scarcely passed Cape St. John, and reached the latitude of
the dreaded promontory, when, on the twenty-sixth of Fe-
bruary, a very strong gale from the south-south-west, attended

VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN.

■with violent hail and rain , which suddenly came on, shewed us
what sort of a region it was that we were now navigating.

We had been so much accustomed for some time to a warm
climate, that till the twenty-fifth of February, when we
were in latitude 54" 12' south, we had seldom a less degree of
warmth than twelve degrees, by Fahrenheit. On this day the
thermometer fell to eight, which affected our feelings very sen-
sibly. On the twenty-seventh the weather cleared very much,
and the thermometer was at 5^', we being then in latitude
57' 19'. The waves, however, continued very high, and the
rolling of the ship fatigued us exceedingly. The hope of a
calmer sea, with which we flattered ourselves, soon vanished ;
for on the twenty-eighth began the most frightful south-west
wind imaginable, accompanied with fog, rain, and hail, which
continued more than twenty-four hours. At length, on the
first of March, the storm abated, the wind turning more towards
the north : during its continuance, the water almost incessantly
washed over the ship. v

-•• • -^^ ■ ■ - • ' -•' .- - ' ' : ■ >

The second of March was one of the finest days that we saw
in these southern latitudes. The reviving rays of the sun warmed
us more than ever ; and since, during the late melancholy wea-
ther, almost all the crew who were not under the necessity of
being upon deck, had kept below, we were now very glad to
indemnify ourselves by inhaling as much as possible of so re-
viving an air. Three days had elapsed since we had seen the
sun. Our joy, however, experienced some abatement on learn-
ing that during the late winds we had been carried entirely
southwards, not in the smallest degree towards the west. .

S^ VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN.

Our earnest prayers to be soon out of this stormy region
seemed at length to be heard, since about noon a light wind
from the north-east sprang up, which freshened so much towards
evening, that in the space of an hour we had run ten sea miles
westward ; and in the morning of the third of March the de-
lightful intelligence was communicated to us by our excellent
captain that we had doubled the Cape. This welcome news
was received with hearty congratulations to each other, and
sincere thankfulness to heaven.

Since the twenty-seventh of February, the thermometer had
commonly fluctuated between l^^* and S4° ; but in the night of
the first of March it was only one degree above the freezing
point. The barometer was at the lowest during the storm of the
twenty-eighth of February ; it was then ZG"5 ; the highest point
it attained was on the second of March, when it was at SO^oO.

Scarcely had we entered the South Sea, when we were for-
saken by the north-east wind, and a not very favourable west
wind began to blow. This constrained us to keep in a southerly
direction, so that on the fifth of March we were in latitude
60° south, the lowest southern latitude that we reached during
our voyage. After doubling Cape Horn, notwithstanding that
we were going farther southwards, the weather grew warmer
every day. From the third to the thirteenth of March, the
usual height of the thermometer was four degrees above the
freezing point ; the lowest point to which it descended wa»
three, and it never rose above five. We had now very change-
able weather, alternate fog and sunshine, calm and brisk winds-
For some days the wind wsy almost constantly to the east ; and

VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN. 83

then, from the twelfth to the sixteenth of March, we had a
strong north-west wind.

t'l

In the night of the seventeenth, between the hours of
three and seven, the quicksilver in the barometer fell from
29'! 0, to 28*45. Such a fall was a thing hitherto wholly
unknown to us, and it filled us with the cruellest apprehen-
sions of a more dreadful storm than we had yet experienced.
On the eighteenth, however, the weather was again fine ; we
had nearly a calm ; the sun shone delightfully ; and the ther-
mometer stood at noon at seven in the shade. An immense
number of albatrosses were swimming like geese about the
ship ; we endeavoured in vain to kill some of them witli our
guns, but as soon as a shot was fired, they flew away : they
seemed to raise themselves with difficulty from the water,
and made a vast circle in it before they had wind enough
to fill their long wings, and begin their ascent. This was to us
a new and very amusing spectacle. We were now in latitude
55* 46" south, longitude 89° 51* west.

Repeated attempts were made by us to catch the alba-
trosvses alive with a hook, as well as to kill them with our
guns ; but though this has, according to report, been often
done by other mariners, we could never succeed in it. Cap-
tain Bligh says : ** The method employed by the sailors for
catching the albatrosses consists in fastening the bait two or
three feet from the hook, and when the bird catches at the
bait, the hook may, with a jerk, be fastened into the foot
or some part of the body. Many sorts of birds caught by

g4 ' easteh island.

ns in this manner ¥rere shut up and fatted, and their fie»h
was then as good as that of a goose."

The following week the weather was very pleasant, and
nothing deserving of remark occurred till the twenty-fourth
of March, when a strong north-north-west wind aro«e, which
continued till the end of the month. On this day, in a very
thick and long continued fog, we were, to our inexpressible
concern, separated from the companion of our voyage, the
Neva. Captain Von Krusenstern had previously agreed with
Captain Lisiansky, that in case of a separation, Easter Island
should be the place of rendezvous; and thither, therefore,
t4ie attention of the Avhole crew was immediately directed.
We sought out all the accounts of former navigators by whom
it hatl been visited, and studied them assiduously, so that
our curiosity was in the end extremely excited to see the
island, and compare its present state with that in which it hacl
been seen by others. We were particularly desirous of know-
ing whether the presents made to the inhabitants by the unfor-
tunate La Perouse had been cherished, and preserved by them
so as to have contributed to their comfort and happiness *.
Unfortunately for us, contrary winds, combined with other
very particular circumstances, constrained Captain Krusenstern
in the end to abandon his intention of touching thei'e, though
we were now within five hundred sea miles of it. The latest

* They consisted of goats, sheep, hugs, orange and Icmoa tr«cs, cottoD pUati,,
Turkish corn, and a profusion of seeds of variout kindj.

EASTER TSLAND.

accounts we have of the island are derived from the voyages of
Captains Forster and Cook, and from La Perouse's voyage. I
cannot refrain from noticing a passage in a work, where an
account is given of the first discovery of this island, since it

'will display in strong colours that propensity to the marvellous
which pervaded the relations given by the discoverers of those

' times.*

((

These savages do not go naked, but are clothed in a
' sort of cotton cloth. The most remarkable thing among them
is their long ears, which are considered as a great ornament ; in
some of them there are holes so large, that a man might easily
thrust his hand through them. Thus far my narrative will readily
gain credit, as it contains nothing that is at all uncommon ; but I
must add, that these savages are of more than gigantic stature i
the men are twice as tall and bulky as the largest among the
people of our own country. Most of them are twelve feet

• high, so that, however incredible it may appear, we could easily
pass between their legs without stooping ; they were extremely
well-proportioned, and each might very well have been taken

• for a Hercules. The women were lower in stature than the
men, not being more than from ten to eleven feet high. I pre-
sume that most of those who read my narrative will not believe
what I say, but consider this account as a poetical fiction. I,
however^ declare, that I have written nothing more than the

* The island was discovered by Roggewein, who landed there on the sixth of April,
na. The passage here given is from a Dutch work, intitled, Twee Jaarige Reyse rotfd
«m d* IVereld, 4fc> te Dordrecht j by Joannei tan Braam, 1728 ; a work very |ittl«
kuown.

M WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

strictest truth, and assert, that upon the most accurate investi-
gation these people will be found such as I have described
them, of a size and stature altogether supernatural."

Let us now advert to the testimony of Captain Forster. lie
says : " We did not find one among these people who could
be called tall, and they were extremely thin ; the women are
little, and of a slight construction." Such arc the very oppo-
site accounts given by different voyagers. We lamented
exceedingly that we could not visit so interesting a spot, and
examine into the truth ourselves, r Mi " *>. ; !. *,

We were now daily wafted by very turbulent winds into
a warmer zone. On the first of April the wind abated, and on
the following days we had changeable weather with showers :
the thermometer was from thirteen to fifteen. On the fifth, a
very strong west wind rose, by which the ship was so much
heeled, that one side lay three inches in the water, and the fore-
sail swept its surface. On the twenty-seventh we crossed the
tropic of Capricorn, and after the bad weather we had so long
encountered, found the constantly increasing warmth very com-
fortable and pleasant. By the twenty-second the trade- wind
commenced ; we were then in latitude 18' 45' south, in longi-
tude U 4'* 50* west. The weather continuing fine, the thermo-
meter being generally from eighteen to twenty-three, we pro-
ceeded rapidly on our course, so that by the sixth of May,
at daybreak, we were in sight of the nearest island among the
group called the New Marquesas, or Washington's Islands.
The island we now saw was that to which Captain Cook gave

WASniNOTON'S ISLANDS. ^ H

the name of Hood's Island : it was about tliirty sea miles
distant from us. » j •' • -^^

The short description given of this little Archipelago by
Hergest, Marchand, and others, appeared so prepossettsing,
that Captain Krusenstern had no doubt of finding atNukahiwa,
the largest of them, abundance of every thing for the present
refreshment of his crew, and for recruiting the stores nert^ssary
to continue his voyage. He preferred Nukahiwa to the neigh-
bouring island of Santa Christina, though the latter has been
hitherto much more frequented than any other in the group.
An uncommon number of birds, and immense shoals of a small
Ash, which seemed a sort of herring, perhaps the scomber scom-
ber of Linnseus, announced, on the fifth of May, that we were
approaching to land.

Hood's Island had the appearance of a steep rock rising out
of the sea ; and seemed, on the north side at least, entirely
sterile and uncultivated. It was about six in tlie morning when
we first saw this island : about seven, we discovered to th'^
south-west, though the horizon was hazy, Dominico, and St.
Pedro. By nine, Riou's Island, or Ualiuga, was in sight ; its
naked aspect, its rugged, steep, and peaked rocks, did not
appear to us extremely attractive. We observed a prodigious
flight of birds, and the ship was followed by numbers of por-
poises, delphinus phoaena. . ,

About five o'clock in the "/en ins we were delighted with
discovering the place of our relreshment, the island of Nuka-
hiwa. Almost at the same moment a heavy rai" and gust of wind

88 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.'

came. on, so that at night we were forced to take lit d,lmo9t all ourt
sails, in order to keep the vessel from running too near the land.)
Early in the morning, the haze being much cleared away, the
island was again in sight : the neater mi^ approached to it, the
more was our curiosity excited. We were constantly, looking^
through our glasses, and were now so near to the southern^
coast, that we could distinguish it very plainly. After so long!'
a voyage, our thoughts were turned with no small degree of
delight towards the enchanting valleys of the South Sea
islandsj planted with groves of cocoa-nuts, of bread-fruit, and
bananas, so highly extolled by Captains Forster and Cook;
and although we had as yet been scarcely ablj5 to discover any
thing except naked and barren rocks, feasted in idea upon the^i:><
profusion we expected to find of these and other deliciou^ !
fruits. It was only in the deep valleys, an^ong the rocks, that
"we could discover faint traces of population and cultivation.
Several cataracts, which fell from the tops of rocks,- not less
than ?L thousand feet high, into the sea below, and which werei,
now filled by the recent heavy rains, wejre the only objects that
varied and enlivened this desert landscape. But the sight of
fresh water was particularly grateful to our eyes, as we had been:
for some weeks much in want of it, and had been reduced to a
stated daily portion of an article so. essential to the comfort and
health of man. .

Cv, 1

The land which lay before u» was of a middling height : it
was bordered by steep and abrupt masses of rock, alternately
terminating in naked peaks, and in broken craggy summits,
which seemed thrown together without any order or regularity.
At the iu'st view, they had very much the appearance of having

"T' ' ■^"^'w-t:' "'

•a^ »-,T

'ntr^"-

kif

>' r.

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. §9

been subjected to the action of fire, and we could almost
fancy ourselves again at TenerifFe. Here and there only were to
be seen a bush or a shrub ornamenting the dark summits of
the rocky pyramids, or a tree adhering, as it were, to their
sides : some gentle declivities were clothed with a beautiful
soft carpet of green. However inviting the landscape appeared,
the eye was soon wearied with looking in vain for some traces
of mankind. No living creature was to be seen, not even any
thing like flocks feeding upon the grassy slopes.

The strong surf occasioned by the waves beating against
these broken rocks was every moment more and more clearly
to be discerned ; we were, indeed, now so near the shore, that
we looked about with the utmost anxiety in hopes of discover-
ing some of the inhabitants, or a canoe, which the rarity of
seeing an European ship might have enticed from some creek j
but we looked in vain, and at length almost abandoned the
hope of being welcomed by these islanders while still upon the
sea. Captain Krusenstern now ordered out two of the boats to
reconnoitre the coast and the harbour, when at length we per-
ceived some islander.-^ fishing, but, as far as we could perceive,
they seemed to see us bail by with the most perfect indifference,
A short time after, to our great joy, a canoe appeared, carry-
ing a white flag, and navigated by eight men entirely naked,
which rowed directly up to one of our boats. We observed it
very anxiously, and were rejoiced to see one of the men, without
the least appearance of reluctance or timidity, spring from the
canoe into our boat, when our men immediately began to
return towards the ship. This gave rise to a great variety of
conjectures; but how much "were we surprised, when, instead

90 WA^l^GT.ON'S ISLANDS.

of a Souti^ Sea islander, w£ saw an European entirely in the
costume of tlie covutry, with only a piece of clotJI» round the
waist, spripg upon our deck.

An English sailor of the name of Roberts, who had, God
knows how, or on what occasion, come hither, now stood
before us, and informed us that he had inhabited the island
some, years. Such had been the influence of tlie climate upon
his exterior, that he was scarcely to be distinguished by his
colour from the natives. Several written testimonials, which
he bad from captains of ships who had touched here, of the ser-
vices he had rendered them, gave us naturally great confidence
in him, and we rejoiced not a little at having so unexpectedly
found an European, from whom we should receive, according
to his own promises, all the information we could desire rela-
tive to the island, given with perfect fidelity and accuracy.

He was now besieged with a thousand and a thousand ques-
tions, every one being solicitous that his should be the first
answered. As we inquired for the chief of the island, he replied
that it was governed by a king, who, with his brothers, was
now in a canoe rowing round our ship. It seemed very laugh-
able to us when we immediately gave permission for his majesty
to come on board. A large robust man, with his body tatooed
all over, instantly presented himself before us, and climbed
upon deck. He was, as were likewise all his attendants,
entirely naked, and had no badge or characteristic by which he
was to be distinguished from them. He appeared so extremely
shy and timid, that we could not help being astonished
bow a person so athletic and powerful could be impressed

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. 91

with apprehensions, which to us, unaccustomed to the habits
of people living in these remote climates, seemed altogether
childish. '■ -

At first he hesitated whether he should take the hands held
out to him ; then, in a few moments after, he evinced a dispo-
sition to approach those who shewed a friendly disposition
towards him, but yet had hardly courage enough to venture it.
Perhaps this extraordinary timidity arose from a circumstance
that occurred between the English and the inhabitants, when
Captain Vancouver's vessel, the Daedalus, came hither from
the coast of North America in February, 1793, and was at
anchor in the harbour of Anna Maria, where we now were.
A very friendly intercourse at first took place between the
islanders and their visitors, but it was after awhile inter-
rupted by a quarrel, in which an islander, who was on board
the ship, struck one of the sailors. He immediately sprung
overboard, and was swimming away, hut the insult was so
deeply resented by the whole crew, that they fired upon and
killed him. This occasioned so great an enmity among the
islanders towards the English, especially as the person killed
happened to be of a distinguished family, that Lieutenant
Hansen, who had then the command of the ship, was obliged
to leave the harbour. We all thought that the recoUiection of
this event was a principal cause of the apprehensions evinced
by the king. ' . i . .

After our guests hiid remained awhile trembling on board the
ship, and seemed desirous of returning to their canoe, they
were presented with some nails, knives, red clothj and other

98 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

things, with which they jumped overboard highly delighted,
and swam away. We, in the mean time, had, under the direc-
tion of our Englishman, who was a pilot, made our way into
the harbour, where we cast anchor at one in the afternoon,
about iialf a mile from the shore. Every thing was still silent
as death on the nearest part of the land ; it was not long, Iiow-
ever, before a number of people of both sexes appeared : the
women were most of them to be distinguished at a distance by
having a piece of cloth made of the paper mulberry-tree, ftiorus
papi/ri/era, principally of a yellowish colour, thrown over
them. .. ' ,, .

A number of the islanders a short time after came from the
opposite sliore of the harbour, which was to the north-west,
and swam to the place where we were anchored, a distance of
three miles. At first we could only see a shoal of black-haired
heads just above the water ; but in a short time we had the
very extraordinary spectacle presented us of some hundred men,
women, girls, and boys, all swimming about the ship, having
in their hands cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and bananas, which they
had brought to sell.

The cries, the laughter, the romping of these mirthful
people, was indescribable, and made a very novel impression
upon us. Only a few, whom Roberts pointed out as persons of
distinction, were invited on board, the rest swam and played
about like a troop of Tritons. The never-ceasing noise they
made fiir exceeded ai'v that I hod ever heard at our most
numerously attendea fairs ; and we could scarcely, when we
were at dinner^ hear each other speak. The young girls and

WASHir^GTON'S ISLANDS. 93

women were not more clothed than the men, and were collected
even in greater numbers ; they were above all loud and noisy,
and, according to our European ideas, immodest. They burst
into a loud laugh at the most trifling things ; and as we did not
understand a word of the many comic effusions addressed to us,
their oratory was illustrated with pantomimic gestures, by which
we were sufficiently given to understand that they were mak-
ing us the most liberal and unreserved offers of their charms.
The men who were with them did not shew the slightest symp-
toms of jealousy, but rather seemed pleased and flattered when
a wife, a daughter, or a sister, attracted our particular attention.

Towards evening most of them, at our very earnest and
pressing solicitations, returned on shore, some having by that
time kept up for four or five hours such a constant shouting and
noise in our ears, that they had quite wearied us. The women
and girls appeared here, as almost every where, more head-
strong, and less easy to be persuaded, than the men. Perhaps,
also, corrupted by the Europeans, who had visited the island
before us, they knew that these strangers were good kind of
men, who are not accustomed, in the end, to decline the ad-
vances made to them. Suffice it, that the beauties of the island
were so extremely importunate to be permitted to come on
boaf d, and urged their importunities with so much noise, that,
merely for the sake of getting rid of them, and being left quiet
awhile, we were obliged to grant some of them free access to
the ship. , . , .

These graces appeared in general with all their charms ex-
posed; for though they never left the land without at leaat

0# WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

SO much clothing as a large green leaf, yet this light covering
was generally lost by swimming any length of way. By a few
only were the leafy aprons preserved, and luckily for them we
had no sheep or goats on board ; since they might, perhaps,
have been no less eager to feast upon them, than we were toi
feast upon the bananas, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit, which the
lovely creatures brought in their hands. We are told by Cap-
tain Wilson, in the account of his missionary voyage to the
South Sea, in the ship Duff, that an adventure of this kind
happened to some visitors who came to pay their respects
to himself and his crew. *' The knavish goats," he says, " were
guilty of a very great offence, with regard to the poor young
maidens, for they would not leave them even the little clothing
they had : they flocked round them to get at the green leaves,
till most of them were left entirely in their native beauty."

But however prodigal of their favours, and however ready to
follow any sailor that held out a hand to them, the fair sex were
still not without a certain degree of modesty. They seemed to
be considerably distressed when they had lost their aprons; and
crept about with their hands in the position of the Medicean
Venus, in attitudes which presented a beautiful spectacle to the
philosophic observer. Those who had not been deserted by their
garments were particularly anxious to adjust them properly.
We were not a little surprised to see girk, who seemed not more
than eight or nine years old, very free in their approaches to us^
and appearing no less desirous of making a market of ■ their .
charms than their older companions. But we learned from Ro-
berts, that such is the precocity of nature here, in comparison
with what is to be seen incolder climates, that these diildren

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. ^

were now as forward as girls in the north of Europe are at nearly
twice their age. We saw a girl, who at the utmost did not
seem above eleven years old, and was already the acknowledged
wife of one of the islandei'S.

• ' T

,V'|:

We were not, however, allowed a long time to make philo-
sophical observations upon our new Venuses ; for one after ano-
ther they vanished, hand-in-hand with the sailors, to the inte-
rior of the ship, while the goddess of night threw her dark veil
over the mysteries that were celebrated. Thus ended, with a
scene altogether new and extraordinary to us, the first day of
our stay in the harbour of Nukahiwa. Early on the following
morning, the beauties skipped one after another Upon deck, and
leaping into the water, swam away gaily, carrying with thtm
presents of various kinds, i' i^^ loi m < ij-cu)

The sailors, who were not rich in treasures to bestow upon
their nymphs, presented them with bottles, pieces of broken
china and earthenware, coloured rags, and other things of a like
kind, with which they seemed highly delighted. One sailor,
who was at a loss in what way to testify sufficient gratitude for
the favours he had received, tore out the lining from a pair of
old breeches, and wrapped it round the neck of his beloved.
This was so extraordinary a present, that the lady was no less
delighted with her new ornament, and no less proud of it than
a knight with the ribband of a new Order, and hastened home,
probably thinking to herself, Honi soit qui mal y pense.

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

'. t:

■■ 1 i ' i' ' ■d:

•u

CHAPTER IV.

. - • M .ill U -t.

Account of the Englishman Roberts, and the Frenchman Cahri.'^Cursory
View of the Oroup called Washington's Islands. — Description of the Island
of Nukahiwa.-^Its Situation, Climate, Productions, and Population.—^
Particulars relative to the /nhabitants.

:,U-.'.'i

■.i »■,<

'■ i/.r;;;r.^i.*^5/ J I'U'* <■

.■inl

Instead of arranging the occurrences during our stay at
Nukahiwa under the form of a journal, I think it will be
better to put together, in one point of view, the result of my
observations upon the Archipelago of which this island forms a
part, and upon the manners and customs of its inhabitants. In
order to do this, it is necessary to premise the following
remarks. . _ . . . , . ,

From the Englishman Roberts, who was our first acquaint-
ance in these parts, we learnt that we should also find a
Frenchman upon the island : he, however, represented him in
very dark colours, and warned Captain Krusenstern, earnestly,
not to entangle himself with such a man. If the Frenchman
had been so fortunate as to have been the first who visited
us, probably he would have said the very same thing with
regard to his arch-enemy Roberts. Be this as it may, not-
withstanding the eagerness of the Englishman to prevent all
intercourse between us and the Frenchman, the latter managed
matters with so much dexterity, that almost immediately after

Wts

?^/>^/

/"•////

l//^r/AA^/' ^'y/Al.^.^

WASHINGTON^ ISLANDS. ' §7

oUr arrival he came to the ship in conip?ny with the king, as
he was called. This man was a native of Bordeaux, by name
Jean Baptiste Cabri. Through the friendly interposition of our
worthy commander, who was above all things anxious to re-
store peace and harmony between these rivals, they appeared at
least to be reconciled, and during our stay were both of great
assistance to us in a variety of instances. Roberts, in par-
ticular, in whom we found reason, from his orderly behaviour,
to pl^ce the greater degree of confidence, conducted himself
uniformly in the most disinterested and irreproachable manner,
and exerted his most strenuous efforts to promote our wishes in
every respect. ■'^'

These two Europeans l^ad now lived for many years some-
times upon one, sometimes upon another of these islands, and
both, particularly the Frenchman, learnt so much of the lan-
guage that they could serve as interpreters, and give us the best
information relative to the manners and customs of the inha-
bitants, as far as their understandings could enter into them. It
was much to be regretted that the shortness of our stay, which
was extended only to ten days, did not permit of our making as
ampl^ use as we could have wished of the opportunity thus
afforded us for becoming thoroughly acquainted with a descrip-
tion of people, and a country so entirely different from any to
be seen on our own side of the globe. ].. | <'

The remarks I have to offer are not, therefore, mere suppo-
f lixons formed upon taking a philosophical view of a group of
islands hitherto very little known ; they will contain a true re-^
presentation of them, according to the assertions of two persons

■\

* '4

98 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

who have lived upon the spot many years, who had not the
slightest motive in any way for misleading us, and who were
not sufficiently refined to have thought of giving us fictions
without any motive. I sought as much as possible to draw in-
formation separately from them, and only considered a fact as
fully established, when I found it in this way confirmed by the
testimony of two men who were in their hearts such decided
enemies to each other.

For the rest, I must confess that I placed more dependance
upon the testimony of the Frenchman than of the Englishman ;
because the former had lived much longer in the country, and
had so much lost the manners and habits of civilized life, that
little difference was to be discerned between him and the na-
livesj with regard to his habits and mode of living ; I might
also add, with regard to his modes of thinking. He had
almost forgotten his mother-tongue, and, at first, a repetition
of parhx frangais was the only proof he gave of his nationality.
His whole figure, not excepting his face, was tattooed: he
swam as well as any of the islanders, had married a daughter of
one of the inferior chiefs of the island, and lived with the family
of his wife, and the rest of the inhabitants, upon the most
friendly and confidential footing. Roberts, on the contrary,
lived much more separate from the islanders, and had not, as
far as we could judge, any thing like the same readiness in
speaking their language : he seemed much less acquainted with
the manners and customs of the people ; indeed, evinced a
great indifference with regard to them. He had, however, a
better natural understanding, with greater civilization in his
manners, and appeared by his more reserved behaviour to have

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. ^

obtained a powerful influence over the people. Perhaps this
might be only a temporary effect, proceeding from the more
marked confidence which they saw placed in him by us ; from
perceiving that he was our principal agent in business, and
interpreter, and that Cabri was only occasionally employed in
our affairs.

The influence which the latter had obtained by his marriage
witb a native was very trifling, because the woman was not
of high descent, and he only lived under the protection of an
inferior chief. With this man he claimed relationship, although
he had only changed names with him ; a ceremony, which here,
and in many other of the South-Sea islands, creates a sort of re-
lationship, or rather religious compact, somewhat resembling the
tie created among us by standing as sponsor for any one at their
baptism. -^^ ' • ■ '

The first part of the voyage of Captain Von Krusenstem has
at the moment of my writing appeared in print. His inte-
resting observations will be found to vary in some sort from
mine ; but the reason is, that he collected his information pnn-
cipally from Roberts, whereas I had mine chiefly from Cabri.
I beg to assure my readers that in this difference of opinion, with
regard to detached facts, I have no intention whatever of casting
the least reflection upon our excellent commander. Far be it
from me to think of charging with untruth one, without whose
support these observations would never have been laid before
the public ; nor would any candid judge, I trust, accuse me of
such designs. But that 1 may be rightly understood, and not
appear in a false light, I feel myself compelled thus publicly

• ^

100

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

to assure the man to whom I owe so much, for whose friendshi p
I have the highest value, and towards whom I feel the warmest
gratitude, that it is not from any mean or unworthy views, or
for the sake of contradiction, that I differ from him ; wherever
we seem not to agree. I attribute it wholly to our having drawn
our principal information from different sources.

If, for instance, I say that the mothers suckle their children,
if I assert that matrimonial unions are formed among the
people of Nukahiwa, and that they are addicted to jealousy, I
must lay the blame of these untruths, if untruths they be, upon
Cabri. Trifles of such a nature are not sufficiently important
to stake upon them the friendship of such a man as Captain
Krusenstern, the object of universal respect, and whose services
are known to all Europe. For the rest, similar variations will
sufficiently evince to the public the difficulties under which
travellers labour to obtain truth, in a country and among a
people where they are total strangers ; and it remains at the
option of every one whether they will abide by the testimonies
of Roberts or of Cabri.

I proceed now to give a short view of the Marquesas or
Washington's Islands. This group was discovered in July,
1595, by Don Alvaro Mendana de Neyra, who gave them the
name of the Marquesas, in honour of the Marquis Mendc^a
de Canete, then viceroy of Peru, by whom he had been sent
with four ships to take possession of Solomon's Islands, which
he (the same Neyra) had previously discovered. The Marquesas
were afterwards, that is, in 1774, visited by Captain Cook,
when he discovered the island of Fetugu, or Fataugu, one

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

101

whicb till then had remained unknown, and to which he gave
the name of Hood's Island. Since that time, the group has
been visited in succession by Le Marchand in 1791* by Herges'
in March, 1792, by Brown, in June, 179«, by Captain Roberts
in 1793, by Captain Wilson in 1797, and by many other navi-
gators ; it has besides been frequently the resort of vessels
belonging to the United States of North America.

Captain Roberts, who was an American, remained three
months at Tahuata, or Santa Christina, where he built a small
vessel, and sailed with it to the north-west coast of America in
pursuit of the fur trade. Whoever is desirous of obtaining the
most accurate and interesting geographical information with
regard to the group in general, will find in the voyages of Le
Marchand, Vancouver, and Wilson, and more particularly in
that of Captain Krusenstem, ample materials to satisfy their
wishes. I content myself here with giving a very general and -
cursory view of them.

t
it- 1 . 't - •

: - I

101

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

.-.i>i *

•■ \>1-'"

. ' .jii

Tabular View of the Old Marquesas.

True Names.

1. Fatuiwa

2. Montane

3. Tahuata

4. Hiwaoa

5. Fetugu

Old

Names.

Ohitatoa

Onatcaya
Ohitau

Ohiwana
Tihboa

Names given

By whom dis-

Place where they

South

Western

to them.

covered.

touched.

Latitude.

Longitude.

La Magdalena

Mendana de

Centre of the

Neyra, 1595

island

100 25'

1380 49'

St. Pedro

• • • w

QMr

1380 56'

Santa Christina

. • • >

Port Madre de

Deoi

9055'

1390 8/

La Dominica

Eastern point

9039

1380 21*30"

Hood's Inland

Capt.Cook, 1774 The centre

9" 27'

138°29'30''

,''! .-,• '

Ait

■-•■ ^nlf: k

.?:A^»'T"

Tabular View of the New Marquesas., or Washington's Islands.

1. Nukahiwa Nuahiwa

2. U^huga

3. Uopoa
4.1 - -

g' ^ Motuaiti

7. } lliau and
8.$ Fatuuhu

Kuahuga
Ruapoa

• ■■ •

Federal Island

Isle Beau

Sir H. Martin's

Island
Adam's Island
Washington'slsl.
Massachuset's Is.
Riou's Island
Adam's Island
Isle Marchand
Jefferson's Island
Lincoln Island
Isle Platte
Resolution Isl.
LcTel Island
Franklin's Island
Blake Island
Knox & Hancock
Masse et Chanal
Freemantel and

Langdale
Robertas Island

Ingraham, 1791
Marchand, 1791
Hergest, 1792

Roberts, 1793

Ingrahaoi

Roberts

Hergest

Ingraham

Marchand

Roberts

Ingraham

Marchand

Roberts

Wilson

Ingraham

Roberts

Ingraham

Marchand

Roberts

Hergest

South-east point
South point
North-west point

Western point
The double peak
The centre

Northern point

80 57'
80 68' 40"
80 53' 30"

8" 58' 15"'
8" 55' 58"
8' 54' 30"

90 21' SO*

1390 32' 30"
1390 54' 30"
ISO' 49'

1S9»30'

139»9''30"*

13909'"

Southern point

■» a ■ -
■ w M •

9,29' 3(y'

80 37' 30'

r 37' 30" "
r 50'

• » « •

1400 20'

1400 IS-
1400 5'

« « w «

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

103

The shores of the island Nukahiwa, the principal one of
the New Marquesas, are in general steep, and present only
dark naked masses of rock, which no doubt owe their origin to
volcanoes ; they rise almost perpendicularly out of the sea.
The neighbourhood of the equator, from which it will be seen
by the above table that they are but a few degrees distant, pre-
sents immediately the idea of a very warm climate ; and, in-
deed, the thermometer is seldom lower than from eighteen
to twenty degrees. Le Marchand observed it in the month of
June at twenty-seven : and in the month of May, when we were
there, it was commonly, even on board the ship, from twenty-
three to twenty-five. The country must be extremely healthy,
and of this the two Europeans gave us a proof. Diseases
are scarcely known, except such as arise from wounds or
other casualties. Winter is characterized here, as in most
places between the tropics, by abundant showers of rain. If
it happens, as is sometimes the case, and unhappily was so the
year before we were there, that not a drop of rain falls for nine
or ten months, a scarcity is the consequence. This does not
occasion much mortality from the mere effects of hunger, but
it gives rise to the most frightful and horrible practices, of
which I shall speak more hereafter. -^ **■:

The prevailing wind at Nukahiwa is the easterly trade-
wind, which blows the strongest in autumn : it is called in the
country tiutiu. The so ith-west wind is called tuwatone. This
seems to be the prevailing wind in winter, and the inhabitants
avail themselves of it to visit the neighbouring islands. Their
navigation is in a very poor and low situation, for they

104

WASHINGTON'S ISLAND?.

require three days to go to Sa ta Christina. In spring
and summer the north wind is very prevalent : it is called
tukuahu. There is no particular name for the west or north-
west wind, as these winds are said to blow very rarely. Thunder
storms but seldom intervene.

Nukahiwa is about fifteen German miles in circumference,
and consists chiefly of naked, craggy, and for the most part
inaccessible mountains ; among which are interspersed here
and there small, but very fertile and well-watered vallies. On
the southern coast are many secure harbours : in the first place*
the buy of Tayo-Hoae, or Taiohaie, or Tiohai, to which the
name of Port Anna Maria was given by Hergest •. Secondly,
Home, Hoome, Siume, Tscho-ome, the Comptroller's Bay of
Hergest. Thirdly the new harbour of Hapoa, called by Cap-
tain Krusenstern Port Tschitschagoff. Fourthly, Captain
Brown, of the Butterworth, says, that he found on the north-
west side of the island some good harbours, and that the parts
about them seehied to be very populous : as far as I know,
these districts have never l)een accurately examined or described.
Fifthly, the Neva, when she was here, remarked a bay nume-
rously inhabited on the north-east point of the island. Sixthly,
the south-west side presents, in some places, low and gently
rising land, where might very probably be found creeks that
would afford good and safe anchorage.

* It will be seen, from the TarUtioni in the nanei here pot down, how diificalt it \m
for a foreigner to gite the idea he meant to conrey of a name, for the orthography of which
he rests entirely on his own conceptions. According to my ideas, I shoaU write this name
Ti«hai| bat Captain Krusenstern gires it as Tayo-Hoat.

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

105

As the islanders reciprocally make war upon each other,
iand live in a state of constant enmity, we could procure but
little information respecting the more remote parts of the
island. The boundaries of their habitations are fixed by rivers
and mountains. The most inhabited places in the neighbour-
hood of the bay where we anchored are the three first harbours
mentioned above, and the valleys by which they are bordered.
They may contain together about three thousand men capa-
ble of bearing arms.

The country about Home, or Comptroller's Bay, was
represented to us as one of the most populous parts of the
island, and consisting of three valleys. On the west, or south-
west side, where is the largest river of the island, lies a very
rich and populous valley, which was called to me Jacapa : it
contains twelve hundred men capable of bearing arms. Captain
Krusenstern calls this valley Hotty'Schewe^ bi^t I suspect that
the name w? > badly pronounced by the Englishman, since
that name ^oes not appear to me at all like a word of Nu"
kahiwa. The valley near the harbour of Hapoa, or Tschit-
«chagoif, is called Schegua, and another near it Thanahui.
The son-in-law of the chief of Tayo-Hoae, by name Maudai,
governed a valley in the interior of the country, which con-
tained also twelve hundred warriors. , . ,,, ^

From these, and other detached uncertain data, the popula-
tion of Nukahiwa may, I should presume, be estimated at about
eighteen thousand souls ; though I know not whether, accord-
ing to the number of habitations we knew of, and the many

106

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

more of which we probably never heard, this estimate "may not
be too small. War carries off fewer of the human race than
scarcity; since, in case of the latter, these people have recourse
to the horrible practice of feeding on human fiesh. By
this means, if we may rely on the account of our interpre-
ters, several hundred persons had been sacrificed the year
before in the valley of Tayo-Hoae alone, so that at the present
period there might be reckoned four men to one woman, and
scarcely any children remained. How far the modes of life
contribute to diminish the population will be examined as we
proceed farther in this description. j •; ; a;. ^.j^-

It is possible, nay, even extremely probable, that the island
was in former times much more populous, and it is not unlikely
that it may recover again in a course of years. Hergest, who
visited the harbour of Tayo-Hoae twelve years before
us, says, that he saw fifteen hundred inhabitants about the
nearest shore : at the time we were there, the number was not
above eight hundred, or at the utmost a thousand

The Washington Islands do not appear to differ essen-
tially in the natural productions of the country from the
rest of the Marquesas, or from the Friendly and Society Islands.
The bread-tree, arto carpus incisa, the fruit of which, accord-
ing to what Forster says, is here larger and finer flavoured than
any where else, cocoa-nuts, bananas, Indian kole, arum escu-
ientum, yams, dioscorea alata, and batatas, convolvulus batatas,
are the principal articles of food among the vegetable kingdom ;
sugar-canes are also in abundance, but no attention is paid to

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

iCW

cultivating them. Tlie Otaheitean burning-nut, tuscarpus Fors-
teri, is used here as well as at Otaheite, in the place of candles ;
and of the casuarina equisetifolia are made javelins, clubs, and
other wai'like weapons. The bark of the morus-papyrifera, made
after their manner into cloth, is the only clothing the people
wear. Their houses are built with bamboo canes, or with the cala-
bash-tree, and the shells of cocoa-nuts serve them for drinking
cups. Most of the plants which Forster mentions as having seen
at Santa Christina, I found also here : a few new species will be
mentioned in my botanical catalogue. The Otaheitean apple,
spondias, which the above-named celebrated naturalist did not
find at the Marquesas, I found at Nukahiwa, but it was some-
what scarce.

Besides the above common objects of food, there are a
number of other fruits and roots, which the inhabitants eat
in times of scarcity. As these are only to be found upon
high mountains, almost inaccessible, except when hunger urges
to finding a way of coming at their products, I could only
obtain the names of them. The mahinei, probably aniotum
fagiferum is a very good fruit, in flavour like a chesnut ; the
tefaht or tipahy is a red fruit never eaten but in times of great
want ; the tih is a thick root, which may be had the whole year
round, but,' like the tefaht it is only considered as a resource in
timesof scarcity : cape is a nourishing food, and is probably the
same as the Otaheitean fl/>e, and the cappe of the Sandwich
Islands, arum macorrhizon. The land, by a higher degree of
culture, would be capable of producing many very useful
objects, as, for instance, the sugar-cane. We gave Roberts

108

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

a great many seeds of oranges, trusting that he would use his-
endeavours to introduce the raising of this excellent fruit here.

Judging from the accounts of ail navigators who have-
visited the Friendly and Society Isles, I am inclined to think
that the people of the Marquesas and Washington Islandsr
excel in beauty and grandeur of form, in regularity of features,
and in colour, all the other South-Sea islanders. The men are
almost all tall, robust, and well made. Few were so fat and
unwieldy as the Otaheiteans, none so lean and meagre as the
people of Easter Island. We did not see a single crippled of
deformed person, but such general beauty and regularity of
form, that it greatly excited our astonishment. Mt-ny of them
might very well have been placed by the side of the most cele-
brated chef-d'oeuvres of antiquity, and they would have lost
nothing by the comparison. Their beards are commonly
shining, black, and thin, as they are very much in the habit of
plucking up the hairs by the roots. The hair is generally
long, curly , strong, and black ; among a few it wan somewhat
less dark. . :. .... ..

A certain Mau-ka-u, or Mufa4i Taputakava, particularly
attracted our attention from his extraordinary height, the
vast strength of his body, and the admirable proportion of his
limbs and )nuscle8. He was now twenty years old, and was six
feet two inches high, Paris measure*; and Counsellor TilesiuSj^
who unites the eye of a connoisseur and an artist, said, he never

* A French foot measures thirteen inches, or one foot one inch Engli»h measure,—
Tramslatoh.

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

saw any one so perfectly proportioned. He took the trouble of
measuring every part of this man with the utmost exactness,
and after our return to Europe imparted his observations to
Counsellor Blumenbach, of Gottingen, who has studied so
assiduously the natural history of man. This latter compared
these proportions with the Apollo of Belvedere, and found that
those of that master-piece of the finest ages of Grecian art, in
which is combined every possible integer in the composition of
manly beauty, corresponded exactly with our Mufau, an inha-
bitant of the island of Nukahiwa. We were told that the chief
of a neighbouring island, by name Upoa, with equally exact
proportions as Mufau, was a head taller, so at least Roberts
and Cabri both assured us ; if they were correct, this man must
be nearly seven Paris feet high.

I trust that this subject will be thought sufficiently inte-
resting to excuse my giving the measurements of Mufau, as
taken by Counsellor Tilesius, and detailed in Voigt's Maga*-
zine of Natural History, ie:- ..tvi

• ''.")■

• Height, six feet two inches, Paris measure. i, /■ • - v \

Breadth between the shoulders, nineteen inches two lineSn '>

In the periphery, forty inches. • " ■

Breadth across the breast, fifteen inches.

Length of the arms, from the point of the shoulder to the
end of the longest finger, twenty-two inches four lines.

Length of the head, from the skull to the chin, ten inches^.

Circumference of the head, measured round the forehead^
and just above the ears, twenty-three inches and a half.

Circumference of the breast, forty-two inches. ,;

110

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

Periphery of the lower belly about the spleen, thirty-two
inches.

Periphery of the great bason round the hips, forty-two inches.

Periphery of the upper part of the thigh, twenty-five inches.

Periphery of the calf of the leg, leventeen inches and a half.

Periphery of the ankle an inch above the foot, where it is the
smallest, ten inches.

Length of the foot, twelve inches and a half.

Greatest breadth of the foot, five inches and a half.

Circumference of the upper part of the arm, thirteen inches
and a half. v , ./

Circumferenceof the arm above the elbow, thirteen inches
and a quarter. ' - r ly-r- ..-: ' , ■ «» fci.vt-v*,'-' /*,^. ;i .•».; ;• ? ■ i

Circumference of the hand, eleven inches and a quarter.

Length of the hand, nine inches. - .

Circumference of the neck, sixteen inches.

Length from the skull to the navel, thirty-one inches and a
half.

Length from the navel to the division of the thighs, ten
inches and a half.

Length from the division of the thighs to the sole of the foot,
thirty-eight inches.

The expression of countenance in these people is generally
pleasing ; it is open and animated, and their dark eyes are full
of life. Most of them have such prepossessing features, that
from them, as well as an appearance of natural bonhommie, we
should have conceived, with Cook and Forster, that we had
met with a friendly and kind-hearted race, if we had not been
better informed by our European interpreters. The women

WASHINGTON'S ISLANWT.

are in general much smaller than the men, but are extremely-
well proportioned. Many of them, in form and countenance,
resembled very much the most distinguished women of Ota-
heite. ;

Captain Wilson, who visited this island in 1797. having pre-
viously heard the beauty of the females much celebrated, had
on board an Otaheitean woman ; but he says, •* though she
was tolerably handsome and well-made, she was entirely
eclipsed by the finely-proportioned v/omen of Nukahiwa, and
this she seemed herself to feel in no slight degree. She
was, however, much more amiable, and possessed much more
of the softness, delicacy, and tenderness of her sex."

The women have well-formed heads, their faces are rather
full and round than long, they. have large sparkling eyes, clear
complexions, very fine teeth, great expression and regularity
of features, and generally black curly hair. Among many of the
lower class, who were daily on board the ship, the body
was small without being compact, the belly out of all propor-
tion large, and their manner of walking slow and trailing.
Among the women of distinction, who seldom or ever came on
board, this was not the case : they were of a pleasing form,
with slender waists, and great vivacity, so that they had a
just claim to be called handsome. Of this truth I have been
convinced by my own eyes, since Major Friderici, Counsellor
Tilesius, and myself, in our walks about the vallies, have
sometimes met women and girls of the higher classes. They
were very different from the women who lived about the har-
bour, taller in stature, with more decorum of manners, and

113 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

never without some kind of covering ; they would not enter
into conversation with us, but seemed altogether modest and
reserved.

Captain Krusenstern acknowledges that the daughter and
daughter-in-law of the chief of Tayo-Hoae, and Roberts's wife,
were so handsome that they must have been allowed to be
beautiful, even in Europe. He says, besides, that he found the
women in the valley of Schegua throughout perfectly well-
made, and many of them extremely pretty. None of these
were among the tribe of women who came to visit us on the first
day of our arrival. How much soever the navigators that have
visited the South-Sea islands extol the beauty of the women,
I am disposed to consider the men of Nukahiwa as far exceed-
ing them. Had I not been convinced from some solitary ex-
amples, that the women of distinction who kept aloof from us
were really handsome and well-formed, and that we were only
visited by the lower classes, it would have appeared to me
an almost inexplicable problem in physiology, how such little,
puny creatures, with bodies debilitated by premature licen-
tiousness, could ever have brought forth such gigantic and
finely formed men as Mufau, and many others.

It is highly probable that we saw a very few only of the
really fine and handsome women, and that most of those who fell
under our observation were the ladies of pleasure of the island.
I must, however, confess that in my opinion both the form and
countenance of a well-made negress are more pleasing and in-
teresting, according to our European ideas of beauty, than those
of the women in these islands. We certainly found in Nuka^

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

lis

hiwa an Apollo of Belvedere ; but it may as certainly be made
a question, whether a nice observer would not sooner find the
original of the Medicean Venus upon the coast of Africa than
in the South-Sea. ,

The natural colour of the skin in these islanders is almost as
white as that of Europeans ; but from the influence of the
climate, and the power of the sun's rays, it by degrees be-
comes brownish. This is particularly the case among people of
the lower classes, who have scarcely even a girdle of modesty as
a covering, and are obliged, perhaps, to work out in the open
air. Captain Wilson says, that many women who at his arrival
were nearly as white as Europeans, by coming perpetually on
board the ship in the burning heat of the sun, were after awhile
quite brown and sun-burnt : the new-born children are nearly as
white as in Europe. The women of the higher classes are scarcely
less careful of their complexions than our belles, and to pre-
serve them, live almost entirely in the shade, sheltered from the
effect of the burning sun-beams. They have a garment of cloth,
made from the bark of the paper mulberry-tree ; and if they go
outj hold a green bough, or a banana leaf, over their heads as a
parasol. In this way they preserve their complexions so well,
that many of them are not darker than an European brunette.
The desire to please, among the women, is here so strong that
they have even found a method, if they are very much tanned,
of bleaching their skin again in a few days. They have generally
recourse to this expedient before any great popular festival, or
public sports, th^t they may attract more admiration, and receive
more homage. The manner in which it is done is to rub the
whole body with sap extracted from the leaves of three ditferent

114

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS,

plants, called here epapha, hoko-kuh, and ohue. The skin be-
comes at first entirely black, and for five or six days, the per-
sons undergoing the operation cannot leave the house ; they
then wash themselves well with fresh water, which takes off
the black sap, and leaves the skin its natural, nearly white,
colour.

Another custom which prevails, no less among the men than
the women, is to rub themselves all over with a sort of oint-
ment, made from the oil of the cocoa-nut, which they
consider as having a very fragrant smell ; it is mixed with the
sap of several plants, particularly the hibiscus popu-ieus, to give
it a yellow colour. This shining yellow dye, a^ i g to the
taste of the islanders, adds extremely to beauij, <ji person,
particularly in the male sex. It makes the skin very soft and
smooth, and prevents strong perspiration, which in these hot
climates very much weakens and injures the constitution : the
anointing the bodies in this way assists also in facilitating their
swimming. Though we Europeans could not acquire any taste
for such a mode of ornamenting ourselves, yet it was consi-
dered by the old women and young girls as a great addition
to their charms. They seemed to expect their conquests to
be much more numerous when thus adorned, and were ex-
ceedingly astonished when we endeavoured to make them com-
prehend that we thought them much handsomer with their skin
of its native colour.

The people of Nukahiwa also consider it as indisputable that
a totally smooth skin, entirely free from hair, is a great beauty ;
and under this idea pluck up the hair under the arms and upon

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. ijj

the breast : those who do not take this trouble are regarded
as very careless and negligent. The chief, or elder of the valley,
by name Katanuah, stood one day full of astonishment, looking
at one of our officers, and made him understand by signs that he
wished him to hold himself still, when with his nails he en-
deavoured to pluck out a hair from the inside of his nostril.
Hair in this part is considered as particularly unseemly ; per-
haps, because among all the South-Sea islanders, instead of
kissing, they join noses, as a proof of love or friendship.

116

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

CHAPTER V.

Tattooing.— The Manner in which it is performed. — The Houses tabooed
during the Time. — Clothing of the Islanders. — Their Food.— The Bread-
fruit. — Their Dwellings.

The most remarkable and interesting manner which the
South-Sea islanders have of ornamenting their naked bodies
consists in punctuation, or, as they call it, tattooing. This
kind of decoration, so common, among many nations of the
earth, merits greater attention from travellers than it has
hitherto received; and I am much surprised that the acutenessof
a Foister has passed over the subject with so much indifference.
It is undoubtedly very striking, that nations perfectly remote
from each other, who have no means of intercourse whatever,
and according to what appears to us never could have had any,
should yet be all agreed in this practice.

Among the Europeans, that is to say the pilgrims to the
Holy Sepulchre, and the sailors of almost all the nations of
Europe, in the Alautian islands on the north-west coast of
America, in the Sandwic!., Friendly, and Society islands, among
the New Zealanders, and the people of Easter Island, in short,
among thfe nations both of the northern and southern hemis-
pheres, both of the east and of the west, in the old and in the
new world, are to be found traces of this custom ; in some places

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WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. 117

more, in some less, but among all iii a cei tain degree. It seems
always clone with the idea of ornament, but it is also highly
probable that in the warmer zones it may have the farther
view by cutting through the pores of the skin so much to
diminish transpiration, and by that means supersede, in some
sort, the necessity of anointing the body. •.>;:: . . ;

Among all the known nations of the earth, none have car-
ried the art of tattooing to so high a degree of perfection as the
inhabitants of Washington's Islands. The regular designs with
which the bodies of the men of Nukahiwa are punctured from
head to foot supplies in some sort the absence of clothing ; for,
under so warm a heaven, clothing would be insupportable to
them. Many people here seek as much to obtain distinction
by the symmetry and regularity with which they are tattooed,
as among us by the elegant manner in which they are dressed ;
and although no real elevation of rank is designated by the
greater superiority of these decorations, yet as only persons of
rank can afford to be at the expence attendant upon any refine-
ment in the ornaments, it does become in fact a badge of dis-
tinction. •- .; .. ; ,• .'-- ; .-^' r

■ *

The operation of tattooing is performed by certain persons,
who gain their livelihood by it entirely, and I presume that
those who perform it with the greatest dexterity, and evince
the greatest degree of taste in the disposition of the ornaments,
are as much sought after as among us a particularly good
tailor. Thus much, however, must be said, that the choice
made is not a matter of equal indifference with them as with
us ; for if the punctured garment be spoiled in the making, the

118

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

mischief is irreparable, it must be worn with all its faults the
whole life through.

For performing the operation, the artist uses the wing bone
of a tropic bird, phaeton athereus, which is jagged and pointed
at the end after the manner of a comb, sometimes in the form of
a crescent, sometimes in a strait line, and larger or smaller
according to the figures which the artist intends to make. This
instrument is fixed into a bamboo handle about as thick as the
finger, with which the puncturer, by means of another cane,
strikes so gently and so dexterously, that it scarcely pierces
through the skin. The principal strokes of the figures to De
tattooed are first sketched upon the body with the same dye
that is afterwards rubbed into the punctures, to serve as guides
in the use of the instrument. The punctures being made so
that the blood and lymph ooze through the orifice, a thick dye,
composed of ashes from the kernel of the burning-nut, nleurites
triloba, mixed with water, is rubbed in. This occasions at first
a slight degree of smarting and inflammation, it then heals,
and when the crust comes off, after some days the bluish or
blackish-blue figure appears.

'.;'"

As soon as the inhabitant of Nukahiwa approaches towards
the age of manhood, the operation of tattooing is begun, and
this is one of the most important epochs of his life. The
artist is sent for, and the agreement made with him that
he is to receive so many hogs as his pay ; the number is com-
monly regulated according to the wealth of the person to be
tattooed, and the quantity of decoration bestowed is regulated
by the pay. While we were at the island, a son of the chief

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WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

119

Katanuah was to be tattooed. For this purpose, as belongiiif^
to the principal person in the island, he was put into a separate
house for several weeks which was tabooed ; that is to say, it was
forbidden to every body, except those who were exempted from
the taboo by his father, to approach the house ; here he was to
remain during the whole time that the operation continued.
All women, even the mother, are prohibited from seeing the
youth while the taboo remains in force. Both the operator
and the operatee are fed with the very best food during the con-
tinuance of the operation: to the former these are days of
great festivity. In the first year only the ground-work of the
principal figures upon the breast, arms, back, and thighs, i..
laid ; and in doing this, the first punctures must be entirely
healed, and the crust must have come off before new ones are
made. Every single mark takes three or four days to heal ;
and the first sitting, as it may be called, commonly lasts three
or four weeks. v . .Ssl' <■.

While the patient is going through the operation, he must
drink 'ery little, for fear of creating too much inflammation,
and he u not allowed to eat early in the morning, only at noon
and in tie evening. When once the decorations are begun,
some addi ion is constantly made to them at intervals of from
three to six months, and this is not unfrequently continued for
thirty or forty years before the whole tattooing is completed.
We saw some old men of the higher ranks, who were punctured
over and over to such a degree, that the outlines of each sepa-
rate figure were scarcely to be distinguished, and the body had
an almost negro-like appearance. This is, according to the
general idea, the height of perfection in ornament, probably

»♦

180 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

because tlie cost of it has been very great, and it therefore
shews a person of superlative wealth. It is singular^ that the
men of distinction should place their gratification in acquiring
this dark hue, while the women place theirs in preserving their
original fair complexion uninjured.

The tattooing of persons in a middling station is performed
in houses erected for the purpose by the tattooers, and tabooed
by authority. A tattooer, who visited us several times on
board the ship, had three of these houses, which could each
receive eight or ten persons at a time.: they paid for their
decorations according to the greater or less quantity of them,
and to the trouble the figures required. The poorer islanders,
who have not a superabundance of hogs to dispose of in luxu-
ries, but live chiefly themselves upon bread-fruit, are operated
upon by novices in the art, who take them at a very low price
as subjects for practice, but their works are easily distinguish-
able, even by a stranger, from those of an experienced artist.
The lowest class of all, the fishermen principally, but few of
whom we saw, are often not able to afford even the pay
required by a novice, and are therefore not tattooed at all.

The women of Nukahiwa are very little tattooed, differing
in this respect from the females of the other South-Sea islands.
The hands are punctured from the ends of the fingers to the
wrist, which gives them the appearance of wearing gloves,
and our glovers might very well borrow from them patterns,
and introduce a new fashion among the ladies, of gloves worked
d la Washington. The feet, which among many arc tattooed,
look like highly-ornamented half-boots ; long . stripes are

• r

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. ' |21

besides sometimes to be seen down the arms of the women, and
circles round them, which have much the same effect as the
bracelets worn by European ladies. Some have also their
ears and lips tattooed. The women are not, like the men,
shut up iti a tabooed house while they are going through this
operation it is performed without any ceremony in their ovn\
house., or in tbose of their relations ; m short, wherever they

)ieasi.

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Somet'-nJa a rich islander will, either from generosity, osten-
tation, 01 love t( his wife, make a feast in honour of her,
wl^ii i he has a bi'acelet tattooed round her arm, or perhaps her
eai ornamented; a hog if> hi ? killed, and the friends of both
sexes are invited to partake of it, the occasion of the feast
being made known to them. It is expected that the same
courtesy should be returned in case of the wife of any of the
guests being punctured. This is one of the few occasions whert
women are allowed to eat hog's flesh. If, in a very dry year^
bread-fruit, hogs, roots, and other provisions, become scarce,
any one who has still a good stock of them, which com-
monly happens to the chief, in order to distribute his stores,
keeps open table for a certain time to an appoiiUed number
of poor artists, who are bound to give in return some strokes
of the tattoo to all who choose to come for it. By virtue
of a taboo, all these brethren are engaged to support each other,
if in future some happen to be in need, while the others are in
affluence. This is one of the most rational orders of Free-
masonry upon the globe, r 'i

Our interpreter Cabri, who \yas slightly and irregularly

^'*

J2;3 W.\SHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

tattooed all over his body, upon one of these occasions got a
black, or rather blue eye ; and Roberts, who had only a punc-
ture on his breast, in the form of a long, square, six inches one
way and four the other, assured us that he would never have
submitted to the operation, if he had not been constrained by
the scarcity in the preceding year to become one of the guests
fed by the chief Katanuah. The same person may be membet
of several of these societies ; but, according to what we could
learn, a portion must always be given to the priest or magician,,
as he is called, even if he be not a member. In a time of scar-
city also, many of the people who have been tattooed in thia
way unite as an absolute troop of banditti, and share equally
among each other all that they can plunder or kill.

■■ - ■" ^ ■* ■■• • " • ■ - ■ •• -

The figures wifeh which the body is tattooed are chosen with
great care, and appropriate ornaments are selected for the
different parts. They consist partly of animals, partly of other
objects which have some reference to the manners and customs
of the islands ; and every figure has here, as in the Friendly
Islands, its particular name. Upon an accurate examination,
curved lines, diamonds, and other designs, are often distin-
guishable between rows of punctures, which resemble- very
much the ornaments called d la Grecque. The most perfect
symmetry is observed over the whole body : the head of a man
is tattooed in every part ; the breast is commonly ornamented
with a figure resembling a shield ; on the anus and thighs
are stripes, sometimes broader, sometimes narrower, in such
directions that these people might very well be presumed to
have studied anatomy, and to be acquainted with the course
and dimensions of the muscles. Upon the back is a large cross.

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WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

123

which begins at the neck, and ends with the last vertebrae.
In the front of the thigh are often figures, which seem intended
to represent the human face. On each side the calf of" the leg
is an oval figure, which produces a veiy good effect. The whole,
in short, displays much taste and discrimination. Some of
the tenderest parts of the body, the eye-lids for example, are
the only parts not tattooed.

The clothing of these people consists of a piece of cloth
round the waist, which among the men is called tschiabu, but
among the women teweu or teuweu. The women have besides a
large piece of cloth thrown over them : this is done less from
modesty than to keep off the burning sun from injuring their
complexions. Many of them would very gladly have given us
their cloaks for a piece of iron, or a knife, if they had not
Ibeen too far from their habitations, and afraid of being tanned
by the sun in returning to them. A few of the men had a piece
of cloth hanging partly down the back, and fastened together
upon the breast or under the chin.

The bread-fruit, which forms so essential an article of
food among these people, is here, as in almost all the South-
Sea islands, what corn and potatoes are in Europe, what rice
is in India, and what the cassava root is in Brazil. This tree
appears indigenous in these islands, and was first known to
Europeans through the great English navigators, by whom
the vast Archipelagoes of the South-Seas were discovered. Its
importance and utility induced the English government, in
1787, to send out an expedition under the command of Cap-
tain Bligh, to carry a quantity of the plants to their West

124 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

India possessions. Notwithstanding the miscarriage of their
first attempt. Captain Bligh was ordered, again to Otaheite for
the same purpose, and in 1792, succeeded happily in trans-
porting this precious gift of Providence to the West Indies : the
plants have ever since flourished there exceedingly. The fruit,
in size and form, resembles very much a cocoa-nut or a melon.
The tree grows to a great height, is thick in the stem, and has
a very luxuriant foliage ; the leaves are much like those of the
oak, but a great deal larger, growing to the length of a foot or
a foot and half. The fruit is not eaten raw, but roasted or
broiled ; the taste is different according to the manner in
which it is dressed, but either way has a considerable similarity
with that of the banana, only less sweet and not so greasy. It
very much resembles a cake made of flour, butter, egg, milk,
and sugar ; it has more the appearance of being a composition
of flour than the banana.

The usual manner of cooking the fruit is to make a hole in
the ground, and pave it round with large smooth stones ; a iire
is then kindled in the middle, and as soon as the stones are tho-
roughly heated, the ashes are cleared away ; bamboo canes and
banana leaves are then laid over them, and the bread-fruit wrapped
in a banana leaf laid into the oven, which is covered with leaves
and hot stones. The fruit, when roasted in this way, and eaten
with milk pressed from the cocoa-nut, is called teaikai, and is
esteemed very delicious. The chief of Taioliaie once brought
us a present of this dish, as a specimen of the cookery of his
country, and we all liked it exceedingly. Another way of dress-
ing the bread-fruit is to take off the outward shell after it is
roasted, and mix it with water, or milk of cocoa-nut, Avith

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. \f^

some of the nut scraped fine ; this is called kakuh, and is also
very pleasant. :» r; .■ • < '- * •-' . ; r

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! i.

The ripe bread-fruit will not keep good many days : in times
of great abundance, therefore, it is cut into small pieces, when
fi hole is made in the ground about eight feet long by four
broad, and five or six feet deep, which is paved with large
stones, and the pieces of fruit thrown into it. A strong fer-
mentation ensues, and forms a leaven, which will then keep
for months. This food is called popoi*. When it is mixed
with water, it makes a drink which has very much the appear-
ance and taste of butter-milk, and is extremely cooling and
refreshing. There are many other ways of dressing the bread-
fruit, mixed with taro, with yams, with bananas, or other fruits,
concerning which I could not obtain any accurate information.

The animal food of these islanders cpnsists in man's and
swine's flesh, in fish and poultry. The two latter are not held
of any great account ; but the flesh of swine, with, alas! that
of their fellow-creatures, form very essential articles in their
political economy. On the birth of a child, on a wedding or a
funeral, on the tattooing of a person of distinction, at any
dance, festival, or other ceremony, swine are always killed
in a greater or less number, according to the circumstances.
They are roasted in ovens- such as nave been described for
roasting the bread-fruit, and eaten without salt: the latter is

* Probably j)Oj}ot may signify /oo(/ in general ; for the eating.housc, as will be seen
in future, is called popoi.taboo^ even though not destined entirely to eating swine's flesh.

its

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

unknown among these islanders ; it is only sometimes compen-
sated by the use of sea-water. Fish and shell-fish are not held
in any esteem, and fowls are rather kept for the sake of their
feathers than as an article of food. _■■■■■

The want of variety in objects of animal food seems the prin-
<;ipal reason why a variety is made by eating slaughtered enemies,
and human flesh procured by other means. On account of the
importance of this subject, I propose in a future chapter to be
somewhat diffuse upon it. In the time of scarcity, the people
are glad to eat any thing, and content themselves with rats, and
different kinds of fish ; among others, medusa^ which are not
usually considered as objects of food, ^e did not observe here
the custom common among the other South-Sea islanders, of
extracting an intoxicating liquor fron the pepper plant, piper-
latifoliunty although the plant grows here, and the manner of
making the liquor seemed known to them. Probably much of
the beauty and good health of the men is to be ascribed to their
abstaining from a beverage so extifemely unwholesome. ^

The habitations of the people of Nukahiwa are different in
size, though resembling much in their exterior European
houses of only one floor. They are commonly about twenty-
five feet in length, and six or eight in breadth, with a division
across the middle ; the hinder wall is much higher than that
in fi*ont, the former being ten or twelve feet high, the latter not
above three or four. They are made with four strong posts
stuck into the earth at the corners, to which are fastened
horizontal poles. The sides are composed of bamboo canes
of equal thickness, placed perpendicularly about half an inch

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• I

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. J27

from each other, and lined in the inside with leaves of the
cocoa-palm, and some sorts of fern dried ^ The roof is
covered with several layers of leaves of the bread-fruit tree*
which keep out the heaviest showers of rain ; the entrance
is in the low wall in front. It has always appeared to me
extraordinary, that not only here, but in the habitations of
all uncivilized nations, the entrance should be so dispropor-
tionately low. In cold climates, inhabited by a pigmy race
of men, a good reason may be assigned for it, that the smaller
the opening, the more easily can the cold be kept out : but
it is incomprehensible how the custom can have become uni-
versal among tlie large and robust inhabitants of warm
climates, who must find the inconvenience of it very sen-
sibly.

'.•>:?. .. .1'

VI fit-

The best houses are built upon a platform made of quadran-^
gular smoothed stones, which sometimes extends several feet
in front of the house : this undoubtedly makes the habitation
more dry, and gives it a handsomer appearance. In these
buildings one cannot but be very much astonished to see
with what dexterity the people put together such immense
Stones ; they are of a size scarcely to be moved by less thare
ten or twelve men, and are united without any kind of cement
whatever, so that they are absolute Roman walls : they would,
indeed, do honour to any European architect. In erecting a
new house, the neighbours reciprocally assist each other.
People often build houses merely for amusement, and those
who are in affluence have ft^quently houses or huts in several
parts of the valley they inhabit, which can be taken down^
again, and removed in a lew days. •-< ; '• .;;:•

.-rf-ii^--

118 VTASIIINOTON'S ISLANDS.

The building of the larger dwellings, in which a numerous
family can live all together, is the business of the men and
women conjointly. But when a man, without the assistance
of his wife, brings together the stones that are to serve for
the ground-plot of his house, the building erected upon it
is tabooed, that is, the women are prohibited entering it.
Every affluent islander has at least one such tabooed house,
which is commonly at a little distance from the dwelling-
house, lie suits it entirely to his own convenience, and has
above all a sniie-d-manger, where, removed from the presence
of his wife, he can eat swine's flesh undisturbed ; for this, as
has been already hinted, is a food of which the women are
rarely permitted to partake, and when 'they are, it is only by
special grace and favour of the men. Such a taboo-house it
called popot-taboo,

. Every new-built house must be consecrated by a priest
or tiiagician, or whatever he may be called; he makes an
oration jkpon the occasion, which is given in a language wholly
incomprehensible to the people at large. He must then be
feasted with swine and other good things, over which he
makes strange ceremonies, and sleeps the first night in the
new house ; by these means it is for ever protected from evil
spirits. Upon several occasions the women also have separate
houses allotted to them, particularly for the purpose of lying-in.
The interior of the houses is very clean, for the inhabitants are
bound by the laws, or by taboos, to a great degree of clean-
liness : it is divided by rafters into two unequal parts : in the
first, which is the smallest, there is nothing but the stone
pavement to be seen ; but the other is strewed over with a soft

ii 'h.

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. li^

grasS) over which straw mats are laid, and on these all the inha-
bitants of the house, without distinction of age or sex, sleep.
The walls are hung round with domestic utensils, such as cala-
bashes of different sizes, cocoa-nut shells, fishing-nets, lances,
slings, stilts, battle-axes, hatchets, sundry ornaments, drums,
and a variety of other articles.

..ife

130

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

CHAPTER VI.

On the social Institutions among the People of Washington's Islands. — The
Chiefs, or Kings.^The Religion and Laws. — Recapitulation of Objects
tabooed y and of the Occasions on which they become so.

Op the social institutions, the wars, the religion, the cha-
racter, and the modes of thinking of these islanders, it was dif-
ficult, during our short stay, to obtaili accurate ideas, so that I
am almost afraid of hazarding any positive opinions with regard
to them. The knowledge and judgment of our interpreters
were besides so contracted, that very commonly, when we
endeavoured to establish any fact by minute investigations, they
contmdicted themselves.

We certainly could not discover that there was in Nuka-
hiwa, properly speaking, any form of government. Roberts
having, as an Englishman, always the idea of a king in his
head, distinguished the chief who resided in the valley of Tayo-
Hoae, by name Katanuah, with this title ; yet his power did not
appear to exceed what belongs to a chief, and to be very far indeed
from that of a sovereign. He was probably descended from
one of the oldest families, and as a distinguished head of a house,
had a numerous relationship and great possessions ; but he did
not appear to exercise any political supremacy. In his exterior
there was nothing either of clothing or badges of honour to

WAfiHINGTON'S ISLANDS. >||i

distinguish him from the most obscure of his fellow-citizens,
excepting that he was very much tattooed ; but this was a dis-
tinction which he had only in common with many other rich
people. His body was somewhat corpulent and unwieldy, so
that he could not with advantage have been taken as a leader
in battle, in which activity is an essential quality. His com-
mands seemed only laughed at, and he had so little influence
over the inhabitants, that he could not, at the entreaty of
Captain Von Krusenstern, keep the people away from our
watering-place, or lay a taboo upon it. Sometimes he came
with other islanders in a canoe to our ship, but at other times
swam on board among the lowest of the people, without the least
appearance of distinction between him and them, or their
appearing to pay the least respect to his dignity.

Every district, and every valley of the island, has, according
to the assertions of our interpreters, its separate king ; so that
in a circumference of scarcely sixteen German miles, there must
be, by this account, fifteen or sixteen kings. These magistrates,
however, as far as we could judge, seemed not to have so much
power over their subjects as among us a village justice has OA-^er
his peasants. I may, therefore, well assert, that Roberts and Cabri
had made Katanuah a king, and that neither he or the rest of
the elders, neither the rich or the poor, have any idea of poli-
tical sovereignty, of government, or of a form of government.
This chief, the king of the valley as he is to be called, is in
possession, and probably the hereditary heir to several groves
of bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and banana trees, and as such is
capable of feeding a number of persons ; they probably, for this
reason, consider themselves as under his protection, yet every

1st WASHINGTON'S KLAPfDS.

one still remains his own judge. The intercourse of the islanders
one among the other is regulated principally by the taboos.

When any one of them kills another, which probably
may happen not unfrcquently among a people so extremely
passionate, the whole family of the slain unite them-
selves against the murderer; an open strife commences, and
the injured party will not discontinue it till either the offender, or
some one of his family, is slain. But as soon as one is sacri-
ficed, no matter whether man, woman, boy, or girl, the enmity
ceases, and the most complete harmony is restored between the
antagonists. During the continuance of such a family
strife, many spectators from neighbo\iring houses will look
on, without any one thinking of interposing to effect a
reconciliation.

Every islander regulates himself in his behaviour according
to prejudices and customs, and his passions are kept in check
through deeply-rooted superstition, through fear of invisible
spirits, which is all comprehended in the word taboo. Hence
are derived their laws, and hence what may be termed religion
among them. A brief account of the objects of taboo will be
the best manner of explaining, in great measure, their institu-
tions, modes of life, manners, and customs. Had Roberts and
Cabri been persons of inquiring and enlightened minds, we
might probably have obtained such information as would have
afforded important matter for philosophical speculations; in-
stead of this, I must confine myself to some trifling observations
which I collected casually.

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. J 53

First. The persons of the priests or Tauas*y and all their
possessions, that is to say, their household utensils, implements,
canoes, &c. &c. are tabooed. By this is meant, that they are
to be considered as holy, and must not be touched or used by
any body but the owner. At first, it was incomprehensible to
us why some islanders, who seemed otherwise not in the least
above the rest, would not, upon any account, giv^c us their
implements or ornaments in exchange for things we offered
them, and which they seemed very desirous of possessing, till
we afterwards fully understood the meaning of this word taboo.

Second. The persons of the rich, and of people of distinc-
tion, are tabooed ; that is to say, no one can strike or touch
them in any way that would hare the appearance of insult,
without oifending the invisible spirits, and exciting their utmost
rage against the offender.

Third. Every one, even the lowest person in the valley, who
kills the highest person, or one of the highest among the
enemy, for such a heroic deed is tabooed for ten days. During
this time he can have no intercourse with his wife : he has
hogs brought him a» presents, and fire is tabooed to him ; this
means, that another must make fire and cook for him. Perhaps
it is intended, by treating him with this distinction, to encou-
rage others to perform like deeds of valour.

* As the nams of priest or high'-priest naturally presents a religious idea, 1 shall calt
these magicians or enchanters, in the language of tht country, Tauas. It would hardly bt
giring a right idea of their office to applj the term priest to them.

134

WASHLNGTON'S ISLANDS.

Fourth. The morai, or cemetery, is tabooed to women. No-
woman, therefore, can visit this place ; and when she goes
near it, she must have a very large piece of cloth thrown over
her. If she be naked, she must keep at a great distance. Every
islander has a morai near his house, near to which is the popoi-
taboo, or tabooed eating-house, where the men eat swine's
flesh uninterrupted by the women. The morai of the Tauas is
entirely remote from all other habitations ; and here, commonly,
slaughtered enemies are eaten. Through this taboo the women
are not only precluded from eating swine's flesh, but the still
greater enjoyment of eating human flesh. No person can
be present at one of these banquets who is not tabooed : they
are confined to the Tauas, to persons of distinction, their
relations by name, the hero of the fight, and others.

Fifth. Human flesh is tabooed to women; that is to say,
they are not allowed to partake of this feast. Some instances,
however, may occur in which the prohibition is relaxed ; but I
could not get any accurate information what they were.

Sixth. The wife of the chief is tabooed to her fiiendsj and
to all who bear her name ; that is to say, the friends and
relations by name would on no account permit themselves to
take any liberties with her.

Seventh. The head of every islander is tabooed. No one,
therefore, nay step over the liead of another as he lies asleep :
a father f ven may not step over the head of his son ; nor may
any oirj lay his hand upon the head of another. At our first
arrival we were very desirous of stroking our hands over the

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

135

heads of some of the handsomest men ; on which they betrayed
symptoms of great uneasiness and distress, and informed us of
the taboo. This ordinance appears to have its foundation in
personal security. No one ventures, in consequence, to fall
upon another in his sleep, or to seize another by the head.

Eighth. Every child from the moment of its birth inherits
from its parents at least one bread-fruit tree, and this tree is
tabooed even to the father and mother. If the parents are so
poor that they have not a tree to settle upon the child, one is
planted for it immediately : by this means a provision is made
for the maintenance of the child, since one or two bread-fruit
trees is sufficient to support a man the whole year round.

Ninth. The great calebashes, crescentia-cujetCy which serve as
vessels for holding water, are tabooed to each individual of
either sex. The women there;' re do not touch those that
belong to the men, even to hang them up in the house.

Tenth. If any thing be stolen from another, a hog for instance,
and the person robbed has a suspicion by whom the act was
committed, in revenge he taboos the hogs, or other possessions^
of the supposed thief. He gives the swine or trees names, by
which, according to the ideas of the people, they are bewitched
or enchanted; and by this means the suspected person is
sometimes compelled to leave the place and all his possessions,
and settle elsewhere. The swine that have been thus be-
witched, natetu, must never be killed. Every person of either
sex can bewitch the finest of his trees, when they become
tabooed; their property is thus rendered secure.

JS6 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

Eleventh. The cloth that is wound round the waist of every-
body is tabooed. This means that it must not be used by
another, or be hung up in the house with other things, but must
lie upon the ground, or be put upon a stick in a corner of the
room: an idea of cleanliness seems to be attached to this
regulation. ^

Twelfth. The habitation is tabooed to water, or rather water
is tabooed to the habitation. Nobody, therefore, thinks of
washing in the house ; nor must a drop of water be thrown
upon the stones, or upon the mats. The house is by this m-^ans
always kept dry.

Thirteenth. The best runners on stilts, who perform at the
public dancing festivals, are tabooed for three days before ; they
do not, in consequence, go out, are well fed, and have no inter*
course with their wives. This is probab:*'^ with a view to
increasing their strength. '

Fourteenth. That part of the dancing-place whicii is allotted
for the music, that is ior several drums, with c. number of singers
and screamers, is tabooed to the women, because these gay,
restless creatures might by their vivacity disturb the n.usic.

Fifteenth. The husband's fire is tabooed to the wife ; that is
to say, the latter must not cook at a fire m^de by the former,
or eat of the food cooked at it. The husband, oa the contrary,
may at his pleasure eat any thing cooked by the wife.

Sixteenth. If a husband in the evening prepares a mess of

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

13T

bananas and cocoa-nuts, and leaves it to roast all night in the
stone oven, he is tabooed, and must keep away from his wife,
or the dish will be good for nothing.

Seventeenth. If a swine happen to lie asleep across the foot-
path he is tabooed, and nobody must step over him, or wake
him, but must go round : this is probably because the rest of
so important an animal must not be disturbed, and that he will
be the fatter for sleeping. , • .

Eighteenth. Though swine's flesh is in general tabooed to the
women, if a husband presents his wife with a hog, which
happens very rarely, she cooks it herself, and may invite her
female friends to partake of it. Or if a husband presents his
wife with a sucking pig, and it is brought up by her entirely,
when it is grown up so that she kills and cooks it, the feast
is tabooed to the husband : she may then, without any farther
consent from him, dispose of it solely according to her pleasure.

Nineteenth. Almost all fish are at the time when the bread-
fruit is not ripe tabooed, and must not be eaten. A super-
stitious idea prevails, that by transgressing this law all the
young bread-fruit would fall from the trees, which must ine-
vitably occasion a scarcity. This connexion of fish with the
bread-fruit is wholly inexplicable. Perhaps fish may be
considered as unwholesome at this time of the year, and there-
fore the inhabitants are by such a taboo restrained from eating
then ; or it may be that this is their spawning time, and it is
intended hv such an ordinance to prevent their natural in'
bcinu; interrupted by their being taken at this period.

198

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

strange, hovrever, that as soon as the bread-fruit is ripe, and
there is great plenty of it, the taboo upon the fish ceases, and
the people may catch whatever they please.

Twentieth. If a woman be preparing cocoa-nut oil, during
the time she is thus occupied, that is for five days, or perhaps
more, she is tabooed, and must have no intercourse with her
husband, otherwise no oil will be procured. The cocoa-oil
prepared by the wife is tabooed to the husband, and vice-
versa.

Whoever transgresses against a taboo is a kikino, that is, a
criminal, and cannot escape the just punishment of his offence :
this is the immediate or more remote influence of the evil spirit
Atuan, and the priest Taua; the certain consequences of which
are sickness or sudden death. If any one shall speak profanely
of the Tauas, they instantly impart the affront to the spirits in
their service, and a sudden death or curse is the inevitable con-
sequence. From hence it will be readily inferred that people
frequently die here suddenly, without any previous illness, per-
haps of apoplexies. This seems the more probable, as according
to the ideas of these people, and to what Roberts and Cabri
said, when a taboo has been transgressed, the faces are distorted
by the spirits, and lameness in the hands and feet is brought on.

Such, and similar prejudices and ideas serve as the foundation
of all the institutions, laws, and religion of the people of these
islands.

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

... -i

CHAPTER VII.

139

'* ifcjf

Continuation of the Manners and Customs of the People of Nukahiwa.-*
Their Anthropophagism. — Their Wars. -^Marriages. — Births.— Funeral
Ceremonies. — Magic. — Cifcumcision. — Dancing Festivals. — Music.—'
Running on Stilts. — Swimming. — Ornaments. — Household Utensils.— ~
Playthings. — Canoes. —Miscellaneous Observations.

I COME now to some other manners and customs among the
people of Nukahiwa, and, by the description of particular facts,
hope to throw a farther light over their character and habits.

There is no creature upon the earth, in every climate, and
in every zone, who bears such an enmity to its own species as
man. Let us only cast our eyes over the history of the globe,
in the most barren wastes, and in the most fertile countries, in
the smallest islands, or on the most extensive continents,
among the most savage as well as the most cultivated nations,
in short, in every part of the world, man everywhere seeks to
destroy his own species : he is everywhere by nature harsh and
cruel. The observations we made upon the inhabitants of these
newly-discovered islands, who never, to the best of our know-
ledge, had any intercourse with civilized nations, and who may
be considered as children of nature, and in their original con-
dition, afford remarkable examples in confirmation of tliis
hypothesis.

T 2

140 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

The sweet and tender feelings of affection and love, of friend-
ship and attachment, even that of parents towards their
children, and of children towards their parents, I have, alas!
very seldom found among a rude and uncivilized people. The
African hordes not only bring their prisoners taken in battle,
but their own children to market. The same thing is done by
the Kirgis, the Kalmuks, and many other inhabitants of the
north-west coast of America; and here, at Nukahiwa, a woman
would very readily have given a child at her breast, which had
been asked by us in jest, in exchange for a piece of iron.

Our passions are, through a higher degree of cultivation,
through reason, through more refined habits, and above all,
through religion, kept under some restraint; but where these
and conscience have no influence, man is hard-hearted, and
capable of the most horrible actions, without appearing to have
any idea that he is doing ill. In this point of view I can explain
very easily to myself how it is possible that the people of
Nukahiwa, as well as many other savage nations, eat their
enemies slain or taken in battle, or in a time of scarcity kill and
eat even their own wives and children. It is an old and deeply
rooted custom, which has been handed down from father to
son, and which they therefore regard with as little horror,
and think as little about, as we do of killing and eating
an ox : we are, indeed, regarded by several Asiatic nations
with scarcely less horror for eating the flesh of animals, than
cannibal nations are by us for eating human flesh. Before I
enter more particularly into the anthropophagism of these
islanders, X will hazard some general remarks upon the sub-

WASniNGTON'S ISLANDS. ]41

ject, as it appears to me a matter of sufficient importance to be
investigated somewhat minutely *.
'■ ■■ .'*■..

Many persons of speculative and philosophic minds doubt,
but upon insufficient grounds, the truth of anthropuphagisitn.
It is, however, incontrovertible, that almost all nations of the
world have at ohe period or other been guilty of this crime.
Incredible as it may appear, there have been, and are still, par-
ticularly in South-America, and in the interior of Africa, as
well as upon its western coasts, people who feed upon human
flesh merely on account of its delicacy, and as the height of
gourmandise. These nations not only eat the prisoners ^hey
take in war, but their own wives and children ; they even
buy and sell human flesh publicly. To them we are ind'^bted
for the information that white men are finer flavoartd than
negroes, and that Englishmen are preferable to Frenchmen.
Farther, the flesh of young girls and women, particularly
of new-born children, far exceeds in delicacy that of the finest
youths, or grown men. Finally, they tell us that the inside
of the hand and the sole of the foot are the nicest parts of
the human body.

* During my stay at Lisbon between 1797 and 1803, I had the opportunity of exa«
mining a manuscript of J. de Loureiro, the wcll.knovn author of the Flora CoMnm.
Chinensis, Some of the Tcry interesting and original remarlis made by )iim upon the
subject which I am about to investigate have remained strongly impressed upon my
mind, and I will venture to incorporate them with my own, as well as others taken from
the treatise of the ingenious Professor Meiiiers, of Gottingen, De Anthropophagia ei
diversis yui cauiit. ^

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WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

The motives that lead men to this unnatural practice appear
to be some one or other of the following :

First. Extreme scarcity, when there is so great a want of
food that no other means of supporting lifcj are attainable.

This motive is the most general one, and is the most excu-
sable, especially if only dead corpses are eaten ; for it must be
pretty indifferent to a lump of clay, whether it be devoured by
worms, by animals, or by its fellow-creatures. But although
such reasoning may appear very plausible, a reflection may be
made, which will shew that even upon this ground the practice
cannot be vindicated. Loureiro relates, that upon the occasion
of a great scarcity in India, when some hundred thousand per-
sons died of hunger, so that the streets and highways were
strewed with dead bodies, and there were hardly sufficient num-
bers left, or strength enough remaining in them, to bury the
dead, many persons took the desperate resolution of saving
their own lives by devouring those who had already fallen vic-
tims to the calamity. Some of these, when the scarcity was
over, and they were no longer urged to it by necessity, had
acquired such an irresistible desire for this food, that they
would even way-lay the living to kill and eat them. Among
others, a person who lived in a forest upon the side of a
mountain, contrived a sling, which he threw round the necks
of persons passing along, and drew them into the forest, where
he satiated his appetite upon them. He continued this prac-
tice for some time, till he was detected, when he was seized
and put to death.

->^^'

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. \4S

On the same occasion, and urged by a similar appetite, a
woman used to carry away children who had strayed from
their parents, or the people who had the care of them. She
stopped their mouths and noses with clay, by which means they
were suffocated, and she confessed that she eat them. This was
done, as she declared, at first from hunger, but afterwards from an
insatiable longing : what she could not eat fresh, she salted and
kept for future eating. From these and other examples, it is
clear that human flesh is found so grateful, that those who
have once eaten it can with difficulty abstain from it ; and from
this circiimstance a strong conclusion may be drawn against the
morality of even eating a corpse in times of the greatest scarcity,
or pressed by the most gnawing hunger. . -

There are many undeniable instances of anthopophagism,
not only among barbarous, but even among civilized nations.
One of the most remarkable, as well on account of the antiquity
of the circumstance as of the number implicated in it, is to be
found in the third book of Herodotus. " Cambyses, King of
Persia," he says, " incensed at the contemptuous answer sent him
by the King of iEthiopia, on the subject of the Icthyophagi,
his ambassadors, put himself at the head of a numerous army,
determined to avenge the affront. He set forwards for iEthio-
pia ; but as his route lay over long sandy deserts, his army
began to be distressed for want of food. At first they appeased
their hunger by killing their horses and beasts of burden, and
then cat the plants that grew in the way ; but as the latter
were very thinly scattered over the deserts of Africa, they
were at last constrained to kill every tenth man for the nou-
rishment of the rest. In this way the greatest part of the army

14^

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

was destroyed i the king was in consequence compelled to aban-
don the euterprize, and return home with the small remains
of it." , n ; .

The men of Nukahiwa, as Roberts and Cabri assured us,
will, in times of scarcity, kill and eat their wives and ciiildren,
but not unless pressed to it by the utmost necessity. The rich
islanders, that is, those who possess a superabundance of pro-
visions, appear exempted from being made the sacrifice of such
a calamity ; at least, in that which happened not many months
before our arrival, no one of Katanuah's family had been slaugh-
tered. On the contrary, he, from his own stores, supported
twenty-six persons. It seems, therefore, a reasonable pre-
sumption that the tattooing and feasting societies had their
origin in an endeavour to suppress, as much as possible, this
horrid and unnatural practice.

Secondly. Another motive for anthropophagism is the un-
ruly and inordinate desires to which man is too prone to give
way.

The Americans, particularly in Mexico, certainly were not
in want of the means of living, yet they perpetually offered up
human victims in great numbers ; and although this was done
under the pretence of its being acceptable to their gods, the
principal end seems to have been to gratify their appetites. On
that account alone, without any pretence of religion, the Ta-
huyas of Brazil, and other South- American nations, used to
fatten the unhappy victims that fell into their hands for some
months before they were to be killed.

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

145

The Jaygas, a savage nation of Africa, which are spread over
the sandy deserts as far as the Hottentot borders near the Cape
of Good Hope, have a similar custom. The Anzigos, like-
wise an African nation, who inhabit the borders of the kingdom
of Congo, kill and eat not only the prisoners they take from
other nations, but also their own countrymen, first feeding
them well, and even giving them dainties, that their flesh may
be the more delicate and fineiy-flavoured ; it is then publicly

sold in the market.

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J/.i;i 'iv-' ■'■

Pliny relates, that the greater part of the Scythian and
Tartar tribes in Asia were anthropophagists ; and we are assured
by the latest navigators that the same is the case with regard
to almost all the South-Sea islanders. In Europe it is true, to
the best of our knowledge, this practice does not now exist
any where ; but Pliny says, that in ancient times human flesh
was eaten by the Lestrigons, a people of Italy. The same is
asserted by Strabo of the Hibernians, whom we commonly call
Irishmen ; and Ccelius Rhodriginus says, that it was the prac-
tice also among their neighbours the Scotch. It is extremely
probable that all our forefathers, when they were at the lowest
step of civilization, were anthropophagists.

ji-,^i

■is J

i-Vj.i-.>.

Thirdly. Another motive assigned for this practice, and the
most extraordinary of all, since it appears the most contrary to
nature and sound reason, is to be found among some ancient
tribes. Under the pretence of humanity, man becomes inhu-
man : in the persuasion that he is performing an act of love
and truth, he assumes the part of an enemy, of a monster of
cruelty. ..;-...> ..,...•)■;.,.;.,. 4-1. r^-^

140 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS^

What is more valuable than life ? And whose lives ought we to
be so anxious to preseiTe as those of our parents and relations ?
Yet the Massagetae, an eastern nation of antiquity, inhabiting
the farther side of the Caspian Sea, against whom, according
to Herodotus, Cyrus undertook a campaign, were strangers
to a duty so implanted in our nature. Of these barbarous
people, Herodotus says, in the first book of his history, that
when any of them arrived at a decrepit old age, their sons and
other relations united to put the poor old people to death.
They then mixed their flesh with the entrails of other animals, and
made a great feast, at which they were extremely joyous, boast-
ing that they had interred their relation in their own entrails,
the most honourable and respectful manner in which he could be
disposed of. We find the same thing confirmed by other writers,
particularly Pomponius Mela. He says, speaking of a Scy-
thian tribe, whom he calls the Essedonians, and who lived upon
the borders of the Palus Maeotis : " Essedones funera parentum
lati et victimis ac festo coitu familiarium excipiunt, corpora ipsa
laniata et ccesis pecorum visceribus immixta epulando consumunt.*"
The Massagetae and Essedonians were therefore agreed in eat-
ing their nearest relations amid rejoicings at a jovial feast. It
may be made a question whether our German saying of " eating
any body through love" may not have arisen from a tradition
referring to those ancient times ; since it is certain that our
forefathers, equally with the above-mentioned tribes, followed
this custom.

* The Essedonians rejoice at the decease of their parents, and banquet upon their
bodies, with their acquaintance, at a festive meeting, catting them to pieces, and mixing
them up with the entrails of beastst

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. 147

Fourthly. A farther motive for anthropophagisttt is hatred,
contempt, and a thirst of revenge. • ;

In Cochin-Cbina, it was ordered by law, that all rebels,
when their guilt was established, should be put to death, and
their flesh eaten by the faithful subjects, particularly those imme-
diately about the king. At the time when J. de Loureiro was in
the country, such an execution took place. The male culprits were
beheaded, the female ones were strangled, according to the sen-
tence passed ; the soldiers on guard about the palace then each
of them cut off a piece of flesh from the dead bodies, and stick-
ing it in an unripe lemon, swallowed it raw. As the size of the
piece of flesh was however not defined, and the nation seemed
to feel great horror at the sentence, the most cunning took an
opportunity of letting the piece of flesh slip out between their
fingers, and swallowed only the lemon.

Nearly at the same time the people of Cochin-China were
making war upon some mountaineers called Mois, who live to
the west of their country, and often make hasty inroads into it.
The general marched with an army to the mountains ; but as
he could not reach the enemy on account of the inaccessible
nature of the ground, from anger and revenge, he ordered two
prisoners, who had been taken, to be put to death, and com-
pelled his soldiers to eat them. The same Loureiro, being in
the year 1777 on board an English ship of war in the harbour
ofTeirao, in order to leave Cochin-China, a party of rebels
came down under the conduct of a celebrated leader, by name
Nhae, and having seized upon several persons, particularly one
who was much in the king's confidence, and who had been a

]48

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

great enemy to them, as a proof of their hatred they tore out
his liver, and eat it. The Cochin-Chinese }»ive a proof how
much they are addicted to this kind of outrage, by saying,
when they wish to express their hatred of a person very strongly,
'• / xvish I could eat his liver or hisjlcsh."

Among many other nations, a common way of expressing
an eager desire of revenge is to wish that they could drink the
blood of their enemies ; and our German expression, to be
blood-thirsty, comes perhaps from the time when our fore-
fathers, out of revenge, literally assuaged their thirst with the
blood of their enemies instead of grapes. ' '«>

The Frenchman Cabri, whom we found upon the island of
Nukahiwa, and who indeed had lost all appearance of an
European education, asserted that he had never eaten the
enemies whom he had taken, only exchanged them for swine,
and Roberts supported his assertion. Notwithstanding this,
I am disposed to think that a man, who had in other respects
incorporated himself so entirely with the natives, who might
be said to be both morally and physically transformed into a
savage, who himself confessed that he went out hunting on
purpose to catch men, and exchange them for swine, and
thought this excellent pastime,— I cannot help, I say, being
much disposed to think that such a man was very capable, when
he had caught his prey, of eating it in company with his new
brethren. He would even have made himself an object of ridicule
if he had left this dainty, procured with so much labour, to be
eaten by his comrades alone; and though Roberts exculpated him
from such a crime, this is not convincing ; for Cabri was cua-

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. 149

ning enough not to have informed his enemy of the banquet, or
invited him to it, and the thing might therefore be done with-
out his knowledge. •< 1 rn< >'v i^ 1 .. ,1.. ^ ., ; • ,o? i

It is a well-established fact, that the people of Kukahiwa
eat their friends if pressed by hunger, and their enemies from
hatred or custom. The Tauas, or priests, do still more: they
often regale themselves with human flesh merely from the
delight they take in it. For this purpose they make a sem-
blance as if they were under the influence of a spirit, and
after various grimaces and contortions, appear to fall into a
deep sleep. This they take care shall always be done in such
places and on such occasions as that there may be abundance
of spectators. After sleeping a short time, they wake sud-
denly, and relate to the people around what the spirit has
dictated to them in their dreams. The command sometimes
happens to be, that a woman or a man, a tattooed or an
untattooed person, a fat or a lean one, an old man or a youth
out of the next valley, or from the next river, must be seized
and brought to them. The people to whom this is related
immediately post themselves in some ambush near a foot-path,
or a river that abounds with fish, and the consequence is, that
the first person who comes that way, bearing > any resemblance
to the description given as seen in the dream, is taken, and
brought to the Taua's morai, and eaten in company with his
taboo society. It depends also frequently upon the Taua to
determine whether any enemies shall be taken prisoners, and
how many. . .. . . ...

If a Taua be ill, one, two, or three inhabitants of an enemy's

l&d

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

valley, according to the degree of his illnens, arc taken pri-
soners, to be sacrificed as offerings to his luxurious appetite.
Does* the Taua recover, 'tis well ; if not, the sacrifice must be
repeated ; and if lie dies at last, the whole valley participate in
the event ; a war is commenced, and as many prisoners as can
be laid hold on are seized, not by secret ambushes, but by open
violence, being considered as enemies merely because they inha-
bited the other side of the river. If only a single man or woman
be taken, the victim is carried to the morai, and eaten there.

The conqueror, or hero, who kills an enemy, has the head as
his portion ; he cuts it off immediately, parts the skull asunder
at the sutures, and swallows the blobd and brains upon the
spot. The skull is afterwards cleaned from the flesh, orna-
mented with hog's bristles, and the under jaw fastened to it
ingeniously with threads from the cocoa-nut. It then serves at
future opportunities as a token of valour, being for that pur-
pose fastened to the cloth which is worn round the waist.
During our stay we had several opportunities of examining
these skulls. " ^

Deeply-rooted prejudices, and the desire of human flesh,
seem the principal causes of the enmities and wars so frequent
among these people. I cannot, however, say that the conflicts
are in general very terrible, since the contending parties rarely
fight with equal numbers. Thirst of conquest, pride of ancestry,
claims upon a whole valley or a piece of land, seldom or never
seem to be the causes that occasions wars among them.

When they are going publicly to battle, they appear with

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. Ij^f

their hands and feet ornamented with feathers, and a sort of
veil on their heads made of cocoa-nut threads woven together,
which a stranger would rather suppose to be intended as an
article of finery than worn as a part of the accoutrements of
war. The most distinguished heroes have then the skull of the
enemy formerly slain bound to the hip or the foot. In their
hands they carry lances, javelins, and clubs of casuarini-wood.
During the fight, they spring and jump about, making many
movements, by which they endeavour to throw the javelins, or
sling stones, and often quit the field when they have Only slain
one of their adversaries. According to the account of our
Frenchman, from whom our principal information with regard
to the martial prowess of these people was derived, it appeared
as if their lights were very like the mock combats sometimes
performed by our youths. When they lurk after an enemy
singly, it is done commonly in bad weather, during a heavy
rain, as then a greater number of people are employed in fish-
ing, and the enemy cannot so easily see and hear the hero in
his ambush. Whether, in times of scarcity, they seek out
their enemies to prey upon them, I do not know ; but it would
appear wholly strange and inexplicable, if, when pressed by
hunger, they should rather sacrifice their own wives and children
than endeavour to seize neighbours with whom they are at
enmity.

When a woman is near child-birth, a small taboo-house is
built in the neighbourhood of the dwelling ; this custom seems
to originate in cleanliness. The mother, or some other near
relation, manages the business of the delivery, at which none
but women are allowed to be present. A large piece of the cloth

152

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

which they mnUo from the paper-mulberry-tree is spread upon
the ground, and another piece is thrown over the person to be
deUvcred. The mother goes out immediately after the birth,
and the first place she goes to is the nearest stream^ the child
being carried thither also, but not by herself, and there both
are well washed. Decorum requires that a hog should be killed
upon this occasion ; and some days after, when the navel-string
falls, another is killed. The former is generally eaten by the
father alone, but the near friends are invited to partake of the
latter. ........

The delivery is easy, and commonly takes place in half an
hour ; very rarely indeed does it last an hour. Some instances
do howeveroccur of severe labours, arising from the unnatural
situation of the child, or the opposition of some part of the
extremities. The mother almost universally takes care of the
child herself, though sometimes, when she is very much occu-
pied, she will consign it for a short time to the care of another.
No particular length of time is fixed for suckling it; in ge-
neral, children are not weaned till they can go alone, and
many not till they can speak. Some are early fed with other
food, which generally consists of popoi ; or in a few months
after the birth, raw fish is given them.

Young unmarried girls may unhindered, unpifnished, and
without dishonouring their families, yield to their propensities
to gallantry ; but as soon as they enter into the state of ma-
trimony, all intercourse with any other men, except their
husbands, is strictly forbidden. As the slave of her husband,
the infidelity of a wife is then punished with stripes, or she

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

15.7

U discarded ; the seducer is secretly puiiislied at the pleasure of
the husband, but never publicly. This is a plain proof that
real matrimonial compacts exist here, and that the hus-
bands are no strangers to jealousy ; that is to say, if Cabri's
information be accurate.

As soon as a m'ln and woman have reciprocally agreed to
live with each other, presents are exchanged between the bride-
groom and the parents of the bride. The marriage lasts as long
as harmony and good-will subsist between the parties ; but if
either wishes to be released from the compact, they are free.
The children are taken care of by both parties, and remain
either with the father or mother, as the matter can be arranged
between themselves. This point, however, I am inclined
to believe is seldom brought much into question, since the
most perfect indifference seems commonly to reign between
parents and children.

If the daughter of a person of distinction marries, a number
of swine are killed, and all the friends and acquaintance are
invited to the feast. Every guest at the nuptials has then a
right, with the consent of the bride, to share the pleasures of the
nuptial night with the bridegroom. The feasting commonly
lasts two or three days, till all the swine are eaten, and from that
time the wife must abstain from all intercourse with any other
man except her husband. If she transgresses obstinately in this
respect, the latter has a right to make himself amends by pre-
senting her, against her will, to any body who will take her.
Rich men may have at their pleasure as many wives as they
chuse, or can maintain, but it is more usual to have only one.

154 VTAfHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

When any one dies, the corpse is immediately M^ashed clean,
and laid upon a sort of bier made of bamboo-canes, and covered
with a piece of new cloth ; the body is also covered with several
pieces of new cloth. At least half the swine belonging to the
deceased are then killed and roasted, the Taua and other of the
taboo-friends are informed of the death, and invited to the
funeral. Before the arrival of the guests, a large piece of cloth
is stretched out behind the bier, on which the corpse is laid,
and several stakes are stuck up with pieces of fine white cloth
upon them. These are to mark the taboo-place.

The Taua brings with him at least four large dnims, and per-
forms the funeral ceremonies. They consist in his babbling out
a long oration in a language perfectly incomprehensible, the
drums roaring during the whole time that he is speaking: pro-
bably this noise is made to prevent the evil spirits doing any
mischief to the deceased. The guests then begin to eat the
swine, the popoi, and the bread-fruit, and do not discontinue
the banquet till evfty morsel is dispatched. The Taua has the
heads of the swine for his portion, and the hind-quarter of a
hog must be reserved for the chief, who is invited to all funerals
in his valley ; if he does not attend the feast himself, it must be
sent to his house ; he commonly, therefore, finds it more for his
advantage not to appear. The nearest relations must, during
this time, watch by the corpse day and night, and rub it well
every day with cocoa-nut oil. This lasts sometimes for weeks,
but the oil preserves the corpse from corruption, and in the
end changes it to an absolute mummy. At length the body
is wrapped in cloth, which has first been steeped in this oil,
and is placed upon a bier in the morai or cemetery of

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. 153

the family. This, it has been already observed, is tabooed to

women.

■>i> i

i*U-

^)f

,t;ii

A similar care of the dead is to be remarked among almost
all sav^e nations, even among those where no traces of religion
are to be discovered, though the shewing such distinction to
the dead would almost lead to the supposition that they have
a kind of dark confused ideas of an hereafter. It is a great
object among the enemies from the neighbouring valleys to
endeavour to steal away a corpse, and they conceive that they
have performed a most heroic deed if this be accomplished. In
order to prevent it, if an irruption of the enemy be appre-
hended, the bodies are immediately taken away from the morai^
iind deposited in the ground near it.

Among the many kinds of magic or enchantment prac-
tised by individuals here, as well as by the Tauas, one of the
most remarkable is the art of making another person ill. Fof
this purpose a preparation is required, called here a kacha,
the composing of which is one of the most important secrets
among them. The person who would fabricate one, must
first wash his whole body perfectly clean ; for three days he
must not eat, he must drink very little, and must have no
intercourse with the female sex. All the time he is preparing
the kacha he must live in a taboo- place, that is to say, a morai
or popoi-taboo house. The kacha itself is a little purse or bag
made with the threads of cocoa-nuts and other threads woven
together, in which the skin of a fresh-killed lizard, various sorts
of plants, a little stone of a particular form, a small piece of
bamboo-cane, and a number of other things, are tied up together.

156 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

But the principal thing is to seek out some one among the
enemies of the man they would afflict with illness, and pro-
cure from him some of his hair, the remains of something he
has been eating, and some earth on which he has spit or made
water, with a little piece of the cloth that he wraps round his
waist ; without these ingredients the kacha would have no effect.

Three of these enchanted bags are commonly made : when
ready they must be well perfumed, and buried separately
in the ground, in some remote spot. If in a short time after
the intended effect is produced, and the person is ill, he, who
always believes that his illness proceeds from enchantment,
endeavours to discover, but never without the assistance of a
Taua, who has done the mischief. Then the person upon whom
the suspicion falls is brought to confession by means of a taboo ;
that is to say, if he be really the composer of the charm, he
must when questioned acknowledge it, else he is guilty of trans-
gressing a taboo, and immediate death, according to his own
belief, would be the consequence. When the confession is
made, he is presented by the $ick man with one or more hogs,
to induce him to break the enchantment ;' this consists in dig-
ging up the kachas. If the first present of swine be not suffi-
cient, so that the patient does not recover, he must renew his
bribe ; and if the second will not do, he must try a third ; the
last kacha is then taken out of the ground. If the enchanter
be sufficiently paid, the patient recovers, if not, there is no
hope for him, for the spirit then supports the enemy, and no-
thing can appease him.

The fear of enchantment and the influence of spirits is the

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. 157

great rein by which the passions of these people are kept
under any kind of restraint, Roberts assured us, that he often
threatened them with setting his spirit to work, and that by
such a menace he could generally make them do whatever he
wanted, because they were afraid that he would bring a number
of European ships among them, and put an end in a moment
to their very existence.

■ 1 trru

.<'*'i

The Tauas, according to the popular belief, are, from their
vast knowledge of magic, enabled to discover the origin of
many diseases. When any one finds himself indisposed, he sends
for a Taua, who strokes his hand three times over the patient's
breast, and pretends as if by this means he forces away the
spirit. Cabri, indeed, assured me with the utmost seriousness,
so deeply had superstition taken possession of his mind, that he
himself had heard the spirit in the palm of the Taua's hand,
where he sometimes whistles very loud. He added, that when
the Taua asks why Le has made the man ill, the spirit answers
in a language only known to the Taua ; but, according to his
account, the reason given generally seems to be, that the man
has transgressed a taboo, perhaps taken some bread-fruit or
cocoa-nuts from a tabooed tree. It then remains for him to
dictate what number of swine must be given by the offender to
atone for his transgression, and to restore the taboo, without
which he cannot recover. These peace-offerings are carried to
the Taua's moral, where they are eaten to the restoration of
the patient. The number of hogs at which the fine is set is
commonly in proportion to the wealth of him who is to pay
them.

i.>8

WASHlNGTOxX'S ISLANDS.

Circumcision, is universal among the men, and is generally
performed when the youth is just approaching the age of man-
hood. Till the parts are entirely healed, the person who per-
forms the operation is tabooed » and is feasted abundantly with
swine's flesh ; at the conclusion, he is pi'esented with a hog,.
This operation seems performed under the idea of cleanliness.

In days of plenty, these gay people have a variety of amuse-
ments of different kinds. At the time of year when the bread-
fruit is ripe, so that there is great abundance of it, the chiefs
and principal people of the valley make popular festivals : for
this purpose they collect swine, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and many
kinds of roots, so as to feast the people for some time. The
principal of these assemblies are the dancing festivals. The per-
formers in the dances make many springs and pantomimic ges-
tures, with quick movements of the hands and arms, without
moving much from one spot. It seems as if the people of
Nukahiwa, and the same may be said with regard to many
other uncivilized nations, mean to represent in their panto-
mimic dances most of the common actions of life, as fishing,
slinging stones, running on stilts, swimming, and the like.

i> I

At these balls, the company appear dressed in all their most
costly ornaments ; the principal of these are derived from the
tail feathers of the tropic-bird. Six rings are ornamented with
them which are put on each middle finger of the dancers, and
of some of these also, mixed with feathers of other kinds and
hair, a variety of ornaments are ingeniously made for the
hands, feet, hips, head, neck, and ears. Though the women
of rank, as I have remarked above, are never seen at other

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

159

times without at least the teuweu round the waist, yet at the
dancing feasts it is expected that they appear wholly naked.
This gives occasion to many violations of decorum, or at least
what in Europe would be esteemed so ; but they are, on these
occasions, considered as perfectly allowable, and contribute
much to the entertainment of the people. The same circum-
stance was observed by Captain Cook at the dances in Ota-
heite. Cabri assured us, that only those girls, wives, and
widows danced, whose husbands or lovers had been taken pri-
soners or conquered in combat, and that on these occasions
they cut their skins with little stones, considering the dancing
as a token of trouble and sorrow. When we consider that they
are obliged to appear naked, contrary to the usual custom, and
that they are made objects of sport and mockery to the people,
it does indeed appear very probable that the dancing is imposed
upon them as a sort of penance.

The place in which the company dance is in the most level
part of the valley : it is paved with large broad flat stones, put
together so close and even, that one could almost believe it to be
done by an European workman : the place is seldom less than
a hundred fathom long, and is tabooed. At the times of the
greatest festivity, all enmities with the neighbouring vallies are
laid aside, and the inhabitants are invited to participate in the
gaiety. Great circumspection, however, is used with the stran-
ger guests as to every thing tabooed. They, on their part,
never appear unarmed, and keep all together on one side of the
dancing place, that in case any unpleasant circumstance should
occur, they may be ready to stand upon their defence. They
commonly have Avith them a sling for stones, but it is bound

160

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

about the head so as rather to have the appearance of an orna-
ment than a weapon of defence. It is indeed true, that these
guests are not always secure from an attack, since it is not un-
precedented to make use of a feast only as a cunning artifice
to draw the victims into a snare, and seize them the more
securely. If a Taua chuses to be influenced by the spirit, or to
fall into a trance, it is a sufficient reason for all conviviality to
cease, and for hostilities to be recommenced.

The music at these festivals consists of a wild sort of cry,
and the beating of several drums, some of them very large.
They havp the form of an upright cylinder or cask, and are
four feet, or four feet and a half high, with a diameter of a foot
and a half or two feet; over the top is stretched the skin of a
shark : the workmanship is extremely neat. The place where
the music is ranged, I have already observed, is tabooed to the
women. Counsellor Tilesius, who unites with extraordinary
natural talents great knowledge in many branches of the fine
arts, has favoured me with the following remarks upon the
music of these islanders. I am the more obliged to him for
them, since I am not myself a votary of Apollo.

It is very remarkable, he says, that almost all the songs of
uncultivated people, and even the music of European nations
not very far advanced in civilization, is composed chiefly of
semi'tones. It is the peculiar characteristic of the music of
Nukahiwa, that it dwells principally upon quarter-tones, not
going beyond the minor third from e to g, except that it
sometimes sinks into d. The same notes are sung by all, in
the highest parts not going beyond the voices of boys. The

WASIIINGTONS ISLAiNDS. \Q\'';

music sounds throughout droning and humming, mournful and
melancholy, and concludes in the manner of our choral music.
It resembles strongly the melody of the Romish Kvpu ixitmy,
which is still sung in many German churches, in the same :
manner as the monotonous oras of the monks. The rising
from € to g, and sinking again from g to e, I have expressed '
by half tones, that is, by / and / sharp ; but they must be
quarter tones, for though the notes are droned out, this dif-
ference is very discernible. At every pause in a word or a
strophe, which is expressed by this mark T" , the singers are
silent for some seconds, ai)d then begin again, the voices •
rising by degrees from e to g. This I have endeavoured^'^ .
express by a diagonal line. :•%

.«•>■

.'iL

/7\

iCrsL

•»^*f

•id'

This peculiarity in the cannibals of Nukahiwa, in these
rude and wild children of nature, who certainly have no
traces of musical or any other species of cultivation, that
they prefer the minor third, cannot undoubtedly proceed from
any other cause than that it appears to them easier and
more natural. How to account for the general preference
given to the minor key does not appear easy, and I have
never read any thing satisfactory on the subject from the most
scientific musicians. In the songs of the Russian sailors, which
sound so pleasant at a distance, I always observed a preiference
for the major-tones, in which they almost all fall three to four
bars. They are regulated, however, apparently by the same
art; since, although many are set to minor tones, here and
there evident transitions are observable into the major-tones to

W»i

ip;^'

.»><w

..#

162

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

which they are allied ; and though after two or three bars they
return again to the minor- tones, yet the wliole produces a gay
and lively effect. But as these songs are composed with much
more art, and harmonized for several voices ; as they are always
set to a quick and lively time, and as the singers themselves
evince much more notion of musical science, they are not at all
to be compared with the rude songs of the savages, nor do their
minor- tones make any mournful or melancholy impression.
Their appropriate major-tones, and the animation with which
the songs are sung, give the whole much more life, and produce
cheerfulness and gaiety ; they arc, in fact, an effusion of gaiety
in the singers. The case is very different with the single me-
lody of the national songs of Nukahiwa ; it serves for deaths,
marriages, war songs, drinking, &c. and is sung on all
occasions. >■

In what is here subjoined by way of commentary upon this
text, it i% merely intended to notice some circumstances which
may satisfactorily explain the above phenomena. In demon-
strating the contrariety of feelings which compose the cha-
racter of these savages, a clue may perhaps be furnished to the
nature of their national songs. But as many things, which I
shall presume psychologically with respect to them, may
appear to be included in the sense of the text, they will, in
case my remarks upon the national character and situation of
these uncultivated islanders be well founded, only be a con-
firmation of them. ' .^ . '

Probably at first the people of Nukahiwa only sung their
songs on their return from the fight, particularly when they

WASHING ON'S ISLANDS.

163

returned as victors, having not lost more than one or two
men, while the enemy had lost ten. Perhaps it was origi-
nally hunger or necessity, the want of recruiting their strength
after their exertions, the example of their enemies, revenge, or
the idea of availing themselves of the right of retaliation, thai
brought them to the resolution of eating human flesh. Their
Tauas, those crafty subtle refuse of the people, in the sequel,
requiring more frequent repetitions of like banquets, might
afterwards lead to their being introduced upon a variety of
occasions both religious and irreligious ; and encouraging the
simplicity and propensity to superstition and marvels among
their dupes, they might thus lead thdm to having recourse
perpetually to human sacrifices. Become in this way familiar
with them, the savages soon appeared under the horrible form
of cannibals.

At many of their assemblies and public festivals, the
songs are accompanied by a very loud measured sound, which
they produce by pressing the bare left arm hard upon the body,
and with the right-hand striking the cavity thus made between
the ribs and the inside of the elbow-joint. These loud strokes
fall in a certain measure for the most part thus : u * .

nmt t ;i

In the mean while, others strike the shoulder with the hollow
of the bare hand, while at the same time, particularly when
the feast and dance is upon a solemn occasion, drums are
added, and struck with the same measure as the hands.
After this grotesque music, which is followed by the solemn

y 2

154 TrASIIINOTON'S ISLANDS.

choral minor-tones, the wliole assembly begin to dance in a
place allotted for the purpose. ,

The cylinder of the drum is made of the hollow trunk of
a tree, and it has holes at the lower, which is the smaller
end, like the sounding board of a stringed instrument. Accord-
ing to the greater or less degree of tension in the skin, and to
the size of the trunk, the tones vary in their pitch, but they
are not regulated upon any principle ; the drums arc used prin-
cipally at funerals, but never with the dancing. These drums,
and the war-trumpet, which, together with the cries of the war-
riors, urge the people on to battle, are the only musical instru-
ments in Nukahiwa. The war-truni(pet consists of a large
shell, the Triton's horn, mures tritonisy which is ornamented
with the hair of a slaughtered enemy ; at the small end is fixed
the shell of an oil-nut as a mouth-piece. It has very much the
sound of the herdsman's horn, and as far as I could learn, is
never uesd but in war.

The following remarks are made by Counsellor Tilesius
upon one of the songs of the people of Nukahiwa. *< The
subject of the song is atypical representation of a warlike scene.
One of the people sees in the night a fire upon an enemy's
island, and asks his comrade where the Jire is ? The other
answers, upon Tauata. This excites the idea of the right of reta-
liation exercised over enemies either captured or slain, and fire
is required to dress the repast intended to be made upon the
enemy. They rejoice in the valour of their heroes, with all
the circumstances attending it, but then intervenes a feeling of
compassion at the melancholy consequences, and the impres-

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. 165

sion whicli the death of the slain must make upon his wife
and children, upon his parents and family. The number of
days desi<^i)ated at the close indicate perhaps the length of time
with which they are to be fed with human flesh. It appears to
me that this song displays much of the national character of
these people ; of the strange mixture of good and bad combined
in it, of desire of human flesh, of cruelty and compassion."

This song being sung in the night, united with the mea-
sured clapping, and the sight of the fire which forms the basis of
it, makes in the distance so wild, so half melancholy, so de-
sponding an impression, that any one might imagine he heard
his funereal knell. During a whole night that I was on shore,
such, and not more agreeable, were my feelings on hearing
this song unceasingly sung by these open-hearted appearing
men ; the striking upon the arm, and the hollow sounds from
the hand upon the shoulder, had exactly the effect of the
strokes of a passing-bell.

The song is subjoined, as I received it from the French-
man Cabri, and it may possibly be right as here given. When,
however, I afterwards occupied myself much with making a
translation of it word for word, and compared it with the
vocabulary of the language which I had collected, it appeared
to me in many parts erroneous. If my literal translation be
correct, the proofs •( which rest upon the critical remarks I
have subjoined, I cannot concur with Counsellor Tilesius as to
the mixture of good and bad, of cruelty and compassion, which
he finds in the national character as displayed by this song. I
am rather of opinion that they have no feeling of compassion.

105 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

at least not in this case ; they do not seem to think they are
doing any thing wrong, and appear only to rejoice that they
have killed an enemy, and are in a situation to roast and eat
him, instead of being roasted and eaten themselves .

MVKAHIWA TBXT.

1. HU.t.eama ah?
S. I Tauata oh.
S. f eamailh?
4. tau enata oh.
S Hia ehihe ih ?
8. Tai eama oh.

7. Tau enata iUi.

8. enata oh.

9. ^tSm&o.

to. ah mate mate ah.
11. it&et&S'ah.

13. titi hel ah.
IS. mate moi ah.

14. Atahi ib, &c.

cAinri teamiljlxion.
Where is the light ?
On Tauata.
Wherefore the light?
To roast the enemy.
Let ui make fire.
We have fire.
We will roast him.
We hare him. '

He would fly.
Now is he dead.
The sister weeps.
His parents weep.
His daughters weep.
1st, 3nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th,

CRITICAL TK4NILATI0N.
Where is the light?
On Tauata.
The light wherefore? .
Here is a man.
Where is fire?
Here light. •

Here is the man.
The man.
The flying.fish.
Is he dead?
Does he weep ?
Is he angry ?
Is the daughter dead ?
7th, 8th, 9th, 10th.

Critical Remarks upon the above. r

1. Jhetty ovhia, means where: eamOt the light. The /ap-
pears only to be inserted for the sake of the sound. Ah is often
the sign of a question.

2. Tauata is the island of St. Christina, one of Washington's
Islands.

3. Is in fact the repetition of the first line, and may also be

where is the light? or the ^ref

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS. ifff

4. Tau mu§t mean to roast. Unfortunately I hare not the
word in iny vocabulary, and I therefore cannot ascertain it with
certainty : enata is a man, % human being. Perhaps tau and
tai are the same ; the latter means here ; therefore this may be,
here is already a man, or an enemy, taken ; and as soon as
these islanders have taken a man, the next idea that naturally
presents itself to them is to roast him.

b. Ilia should here, as in the first line, be ihea. „ , , «

6. Taif here ; eama, the light.

r ; ri 5 f*

.'It ^^.

7. Perhaps this tau ought again to be tai. Here is the fire ;
here is the man, who being taken, is naturally to be roasted

and eaten.

<^:.^

8. This repetition is probably increase of joy.

i'if« ( '•■:« ' ^

9. Probably figurative. As we have often taken the flying-
fish in their flight, so is this man our prey.

10. This may mean he is dead, or is he dead? The last in-
terpretation seems to me the most probable, on account of the
questions which immediately follow.

11. Ue, or uwdh, means to weep. It is more probable that
the question here i^ of the slaughtered enemy than of the
relations. Cabri translated this line different ways at different
times : once, the stone has hit, another time, the man is taken ; in
both cases it is very natural that the victim should weep. Of a

168 WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

sister, in their language toahine, there is no mention here, but
there certainly is of weeping, which most naturally refers to
the enemy, and thus stands properly enough as an antithesis
to the tenth line, which inquires, is ke dead? or, does he live?
If the stone had hit hard, it was very probable that weeping
would be the consequence.

p *■ i ■ f '.

12. Titi must be a man's name: hei means angry, incensed.
An enemy wounded by a stone or a lance, sometimes, as it
should appear, breaks away, and endeavours to save himself
by flight. " ;^ •; ,r .^ :'V. i ^,..i' .'1

13. Moi means the daughter, mdte, dead; ah may again
only indicate a question. Moi is, perhaps, properly applied to
the female sex, and the question meant, whether any one,
either man or woman, fell a victim to the combat.

14. Here follow the numbers from one to ten, according to
the fancy. The proper sense and signification of this I do not
know, unless the number of enemies slain or taken is indicated
by it.

,*r

Next to dancing, one of the favourite amusements among
these people is running on stilts, and perhaps no nation upon
earth can do this with so much dexterity as the inhabitants
of Washington's Islands. At their great public festivals they
run in this way for wagers, in which each tries to cross the
other, and throw him down ; if this be accomplished, the

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

169

person thrown becomes the laughing-stock of the whole com-
pany. We were the more astonished at the dexterity shewn by
their r^s they run on the dancing-place, which, being paved with
smooth stones, must greatly increase the difficulty : children
are thoroughly habituated to this exercise, even by the time
they are eight or ten years old. Pleasure seems to be the prin-
cipal object of it ; or, if it should be alleged that the frequency
of inundations, and the necessity of keeping up an inter-
course with each other, has led them to it, I answer, that
people who always go naked, and are swimming about all
day long, have no great reason to be afraid of wetting their feet,
and cannot therefore make use of such a means of keeping them
dry from necessity. , ■i.-u

The dexterity of these people in swimming is another thing
that excited no small astonishment in us. It is not easy to
conceive, at least for Europeans to conceive, how men have
accustomed themselves half to live in the water. They seem
to be able to do just as they please there : they will remain
nearly in the same place for a long time together, as if they
were standing upright, so that the head and shoulders are above
the water, guiding themselves solely by the feet. They will
shell and eat a cocoa-nut in the water, or bring a number
of things for barter tied together at the end of a stick, which
they hold up high above the water, to keep them from being
wetted. I have seen them swim with little children on tlieir
shoulders, or throw themselves from high steep rocks into
the sea ; and they would much rather swim over a creek than
go a step round to get to the other side. Some of them would
swim about the ship for the greatest part of the day, without

1^ WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

ever appearing tired. Mufau, who has been mentioned before
as such a particularly tall fine-made man, though he had
never till now been on board an European ship, has of his own
accord run up the main-mast many times together, and thrown
himself from it into the sea, to the great astonishment of the
spectators. He had actually gone up one day with the inten-
tion of throwing himself from the topmost gallery, but Captain
Krusenstern called him back, and would not permit it. It was
impossible to see, without equal shuddering and astonishment,
how he would spring from such a height, and balance himself
in the air for some seconds with his feet drawn up against his
body, so as to keep his head up : from the force of the falU
and the great weight of his body, he. came with so violent a
plunge into the water, that several seconds elapsed before he
appeared again upon its surface.

These people have a great variety of personal ornaments, but
none which appear worn as a particular mark of rank or distinc-
tion . The head is ornamented partly with a bandeau, partly with
feathers and mother-of-pearl wrought into different forms. They
often cut off all the hair, except from two small circular spots
just above the ears, and then tie the long hair from these spots
into bunches, which give them at a little distance very much
the appearance of having horns • ; the same custom is almost
universal among the Chinese children. Holes are made in the
ears so large, that a body of three or four lines in diameter
may be run through it. A muscle-shell of an ounce weight.

* The miinncr in which this is done may be seen by the plate to page 119, of a young
mail i)artial1y tattooed.

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS,

171

to which is fastened the fang of a hog somewhat polished, or a
light oval piece of bread-fruit wood, is the great ear ornament.
Large iron nails, a little wooden stick about two inches long,
and various other trifles, are also stuck into the ears.

A very favourite ornament for the neck is a sort of gorget,
which has the shape of a horse-shoe, and is made of several rows
of little pieces of bread-fruit wood strung together. To these
are fastened, by means of a sort of resin which comes from
the same tree, a number of those red and black seeds of th«
a^rus precatorius, whidi the ladies in Europe use so much for
necklaces. Hog's fangs or pieces of bone, or musde-shelU
of a particular kind strung together in rows with the threads
of the cocoa-nut, are very common as necklaces. For want
of some of these objects of art I have seen many of the
islanders hang about their necks, or sttok into their ears, a
little fish, a crab, a flower, a muscle, or perhaps any pieseut
they received from us, as a nail or a knife.

Red feathers, or feathers naturally mottled, for they seem
easily to discern any colour given them by art, are esteemed by
them of great value. Katanuah, who was not in general very
ready to part with his swine, yet gave us one for a small
parrot which we had brought with us from Brazil. The hope-
moa is one of the most favourite ornaments : this. is a bunch of
hair which the men cut off from the heads of their wives, and
fasten behind them. The featiier-rings made from the tail of
the tropic-bird, which are worn by the dancers, have beciv
already mentioned. To procure these feathers, the people
climb up the :steep rorks at night, and take the birds while

z 2

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

they are asleep. They phick the feathers out of the tail with-
out killing the bird, that they may be able to repeat the same
operation when the feathers are grown again.

Their manner of preparing the cloth from the bark of the
paper-mulberry-tree differs very little from the description
given by Captain Cook as practised in Otaheite. This is done
entirely by the women ; the making the household utensils and
weapons of war is the principal business of the men. The latter
are wrought with great care and taste ; the lances, the spears,
and the clubs, are ornamented with carved work, or with the
hair of the enemy woven together very ingeniously. The slings
are made from the threads of the cocba-nuts and other plants
which did not come under my observation, perhaps a sort of
nettle, or the phormium tenax of Forster. About the morals
figures are to be seen, evidently intended to represent the
human form, but which shew that the carvers of them
have made no great progress in the art of sculpture. Much
more pains is bestowed upon fishing-nets than upon the hooks
for angling ; the latter are simple, and made out of the shell of
the mother-of-pearl muscle. The fans for the sun or wind evince
considerable neatness and ingenuity. The calabashes, which
are used for household purposes, are ornamented with human
and other bones, and with net- work. A sort of dishes, resem-
bling troughs, are made for the food ; on these are carved little
figures of human faces, offish, and of birds.

Under the title of playthings may be mentioned one which
consists of a stick about a foot long and an inch thick. A hole
is bored in it at one end, through which is run a peg five or six

-m .

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

inches in length, and at the point of the peg is stuck a little
ball of cocoa- thread. The stick is then struck withanother,
so that the ball is thrown up into the air, and the dexterity
of the thing is to catch it again upon the point of the peg.
It is very probable that they have many other objects of amuse-
ment of a similar kind, which may be ranked as playthings, but
no others came under my observation. i

The people of Nukahiwa are, in comparison with other
South-Sea islanders, very backward in the art of boat-build-
ing. The canoes are from twenty to thirty feet long, but they
do not exceed a foot in breadth, and will not carry more
than six or seven men. To prevent their being overset, a
sort of balancing pole is used, such as is often to be seen
among other nations. The whole canoe is mean, and very
badly constructed. The planks to raise the sides are fastened on
with cocoa-nut thread ; the joints and crevices are then stopped
up close with moss, and rubbed well over with resin from the
bread-fruit tree. In case the boat is overset or is leaky, all
who are in it spring out, swim round it, and shovel the water
out with their hands, so that they can soon get into it again
without danger, and continue rowing. The oars and rudder are
of better workmanship than the canoe.

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.

Whatever these people begged of us, as bread, biscuit,
sugar, they put to their noses, and smelt at it like apes. I had
many times occasion to observe that their smell seemed par-

174

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

ticularly acute. They were extremely fond of Augar, but dis-
liked the salted meat very much.

As they have no clothes, consequently no pockets in which
they can put things, they would often carry trifling articles in
their mouths. I was once observed by a man seeking for little
pocket crabs under the stones upon the beach, when he imme-
diately took six of them alive out of his mouth, which he had
absolutely caught with his mouth.

There are many other ways in which they display extraor-
d.niiry activity of body besides those that have already been
inoticed. They climb the highest trees with incredible celerity,
not as we do, with the knees pressed close to the trunk, but
rather like apes, with the toes spread out : probably their loirg
and strong nails assist them in this very much. They will climb
the steepest rocks with extreme facility ; in running, they are
not equally expert.

If they mean t6 give a refusal, or a uegative answer, they
stretch out their tongues. Pointing with the index finger is a
demonstration of friendship. When two friends meet, they
press the points of the noses together ; this stands with them in
the place of a kiss, to the sweet sensation of which they seem
entire strangers.

Tho people of ristinction here, as is the case in many
Asiatic nations, suffer the nails on the fingers to grow very long,
that it may be evident they are not accustomed to hard labour.
They use their toes with extraordinary dexterity. I have seen

WASHINGTON'S ULAVm. Hfi

them on board the ship take up a piece of iron with their
toes, and hand it, if I may use that expression, to some of
their comrades who were swimming about the ship.

To make the cocoa-nut oil, they scrape the kernels of a
great number of cocoa-nuts, which they put upon banana-
leaves, and let it lie out in the sun for four or five days. They
then press the oil from an equal number of fresh cocoa-nuts
over the scrapings, and let it lie in the sun again for two or
three days ; by repeating this several times, a quantity of
good oil is procured. It is kept for use in the hollow of bamboo
canes.

The teeth from the upper jaws of the sharks serve here, 9>s
in the Sandwich and other South-Sea islands, for knives, or
even for razors ; those of the under jaw are used as a substitute
for gimlets and awls to bore holes, for which purpose they are
fastened into a wooden handle.

Small pieces of coral, of madrepores, and millepores, serve
to scrape and work the implements made of the hard casua-
rina-wood ; they have the effect of a saw ; the skin of the shark
is used to polish the wood. Bows and arrows, which are so
much used among many nations, seem liere to be wholly
unknown.

The father of Katanuah, a very old man, was reputed to
have a great deal of medical knowledge. Sea-water taken
internally seems to be one of their most favourite medicines.

176

WASHINGTON'S ISLANDS.

Twin-births, as Cabri assured us, are by no means uncommon
here.

Swine and rats are the only domestic quadrupeds of these
islands ; the latter are caught by the people with their hands,
and given to the swine for food. In times of scarcity they are
eaten by the people themselves, and are very well flavoured.
We saw many hogs, particularly in. the valley of Schegua, at
large as European ones, but their owners would not exchange
or sell them, at least at the price we chose to offer, '-

Roberts had two dogs, which were called by the inhabitants,
who have no such animals among them, by the same appella-
tion they give to swine. A male and female goat, to which
probably they give the name of horned swine, had been brought
from Santa Christina to Nukahiwa, but as they were in a dis-
tant valley we did not see them. We never saw either wild or
tame cats, though it is not improbable that there may be wild
ones who feed upon the rats.

Poultry are not much in request as an article of food, but
those that have a beautiful plumage are highly valued for the
sake of the feathers : they are, from time to time, plucked
quite bare. Fleas seem to be wholly unknown here.

These are the principal observations I was enabled to make
during a stay of ten days at the island ot Nukahiwa. Who-
ever feels particularly interested in the group of islands to
which this belongs, will find in the voyages of Cook, Forster,

t 'fWr

WASHINGTON'S ISLAND?^.

177

Le Marchand, Vancouver, Wilson, and Captain Krusenstern,
many very interesting particulars which I have omitted to avoid
repetition.

tf^*i'

.t « 7

With the assistance of Roberts and Cabri I had an oppor-
tunity, which does not often occur, of obtaining a tolerable
vocabulary of their language. This I have thought of sufficient
importance to subjoin at the end of the work.

■..(-■'i.

A A

178

VOYAGK TO OWIIYHEK.

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from Nukahiwa. — Arrival at Otchyhce. — Remarks upon that
laland.—Jieunion with the Neva.—-Voyage to Kamschatka. — Arrival,
and Stuii there.

During our stay at Nukaliiwa, we had, to our great
regret, not been able to procure many swine by way of barter.
A part of the inhabitants set too high a price upon them, and
others would not part with them at any price, chusing to
reserve them for their own banquetings and revelHngs. We
provided ourselves, however, plentifully with cocoa-nuts,
bread-fruit, bananas, and nourishing roots, and left the island
in the best health possible, with the pleasing hope that in a few
weeks we should find at the Sandwich Islands ample compen-
sation for our present privation of animal food.

We had collected as large a stock of wood and good water
as Captain Krusenstern judged necessary : in this business,
Roberts, Cabri, and several of the natives, rendered us very
important services. The latter were richly paid by some pieces
of iron hoops from old casks of about an inch long each,
and the two former by some linen, knives, hatchets, and other
useful objects. From the first of our arrival we were upon the
best terms possible with the islanders, and had gained, as I dare
hope, their perfect esteem and confidence ; nay, I will flatter

VOYAGE TO VIIYHEE. I79

myself that we even left u])on their minds impressions which
may be advantageous to future navigators visiting the island. At
our departure we had no reason to complain of the behaviour of
these men ; and we quitted them with the impression that if,
in some respects, they were to be regarded as cruel in their dis-
positions, and as just objects of horror, yet in others tliey were
friendly and kind-hearted. . , '; •.,■■'..

The Neva, from which we had been separated on the twenty-
fourth of March in the neighbourhood of Cape Horn, to
our very great joy arrived at Nukahiwa on the eleventh of May.
The captain told us that he had waited for us three days at
Easter Island, but on account of the strong west wind was pre-
vented landed there; consequently, except some batatas and
bananas which the islanders had brought in a canoe, no refresh-
ment had been procured.

On the sixteenth of May, both ships prepared to put to sea ;
and on the seventeenth, in the morning, every thing being ready,
the anchor was weighed. The wind came in little gales from
the high hills that surround the harbour, and changed almost
every moment, so that the ship was often laid on her side, and
we made very little way. Towards ten o'clock, a brisk gale
came on from the sea, which impelled the waves with great
force into the harbour ; and our vessel, overpowered by them,
was driven by degrees more and more towards the south-west
shore. Carried, at leilgth, to within a hundred and twenty
fathom of some rugged rocks, our situation became extrtuiely
dangerous; happily, however, we found anchorage. This,
united with the extreme attention of our excellent commander,

A A 3

ISO VOYAGE TO ovvifrnti..

and the activity of the officers and crew, rescued us from the
danger of being driven upon the rocks we were now so near,
and of being wrecked upon an island of anthropophagists. Our
sheet-anchor was immediately thrown out, and the Neva, upon
a signal given, sent her boat to assist in placing us sooner in
security from the rocks. A great number of the inhabitants
assembled upon the shore, many of whom appeared to be armed.
Few, however, had probably an accurate idea of our danger,
for one of them, in company with a woman, threw himself from
a steep rock into the tossing waves, where the water dashed up
to the height of twenty feet, offering us, as usual, the favours
of the lady, who was most probably his wife. Another came
swimming merrily round the ship, but as nobody condescended
to pay attention to him, he soon turned back, with a bough of
banana in his hand, which had accidentally fallen overboard.

About four in the afternoon we were in the midst of the bay
safely at anchor, and rescued entirely from the danger with
which we had been menaced. The variable weather, the heavy
showers of rain, the continued strong gale of wind, and above
all, the reflection that the crew had been working very hard all
day in an atmosphere of twenty-two degrees of heat, deter-
mined Captain Krusenstern to give them a p'.jht's rest.

Towards evening, Cabri and Roberts cam:^ on board to bid
us once more adieu ; the former also begged some farther
European trifles for himself and his wife. He assured us that
he had seen the danger our ship was in from the eastern side
of the bay, and had immediately spread the news in tiie valley,
as he conceived our destruction inevitable, and, he had col-

VOYAGP TO OWHYIIEE. |g|

ifctcd such a number of islanders with tlic sole view of placing
us and all our treasures in perfect security, in case of , the ex-
pected shipwreck. As the night closed in, llobcrts was sent
on shore in a little boat, and we advised Cabri also to avail
lutnself of the same opportunity for returning, since, if the wind
should prove favourable, we might perhaps sail in the night.
He, however, chose to remain on board, and assured us that
from the mouth of the bay he could at any moment swim to
the nearest shore. •^

',':: tii

Early in the morning of the eighteenth the anchor was
again weighed. We were scarcely between the two islands that
lie at the mouth of the harbour when there arose suddenly so
strong and unequal a gale, accompanied with rain, that the
whole crew were again in motion, more sail was spread, and the
cable of the sheet-anchor was cut, that we might gain the open
sea as fast as possible. At this critical moment Cabri begged
to be set on .shore in a boat, as it was impossible, while the sea
was so high, to reach the island by swimming. Every one,
however, was too much occupied with the safety of the ship to
pay any attention to his request, and he begged equally in vain
for a plank, by the assistance of which he might get on ^hore.
He was therefore constrained, between the rolling of the sea,
and the every moment increasing distance from the shore, to
remain with us, and leave this fairy island. Tlius was Roberts
freed from the object of his determined enmity, and Cabri
separated from his wife and children. He seemed, however,
soon to reconcile himself to his fate, and was extremely useful
as a sailor. For the vest, he was but a, mauvais-sujet, very

182 VOYAOK TO OWHVIIEK

ready iti laying plans for sicaling, lyitigi and cheating, and not
less adroit, in the execution of theiu.

' >
We now directed our course towards tlve Sandwich Islands
Xnd Kanischatka. The wind was brisk, and after a few days.,
that is, on the twenty-fifth of May in the afternoon, we
crossed the Line in longitude 146" 31' west of Greenwich.
The heat was, during this day, at 22", in the night it fell
to 21". On the twenty-seventh of May, being then in 2* IC/
northern latitude, and in 146" 50' western longitude, we re-
marked a Ijougli with green leaves floating on tlie water, and
at the same time saw an unusually large flight of tropic-
birds, as well as some other sea-birds, knd some fish; a trifling
change in the trade-wind was also perceptible. All these
things gave reason to suppose that we were in the neighlwur-
hood of some hitherto unknown island, but we were not so
fortunate as to discover it.

On the seventh of June, being in latitude 19° 34' north,
we came in sight of the eastern point of the island of Owhy hee,,
then at the distance of thirty-six sea miles. This island, the
largest of the group called the Sandwich Islands, is celebrated
from its having been the place where the great navigator Cook
so unfortunately lost his life. Vancouver, his worthy disciple,
gave the world a few years after a complete map of these
islands.

Captain Krusenstern was desirous of reaching Nangasaki,
a great trading town of Japan, before the end of September,

ISLAND OP OWHYIIEE.

183

hoping, by thus hastening his voyage, to avoid the change of
tlie north-easterly monsoon, which often takes place about the
middle of that month. In order, therefore, to gain time, he
resolved not to anchor in Caracacoa Bay, but without any
delay to institute a traffic with the islanders for such objects as
he wanted, so that in a few days he might be amply provided
with swine and provisions of all kinds. With this view he
cruized till the tenth along the southern coast of the island ;
but to our very great concern, during that time so few of the
inhabitants made their appearance, and they demanded so high
a price for whatever they brought, that he resolved to leave
the island, and make the best of his way to Kamschatka. This
he was the better enabled to do from tire excellent state of
health of his whole crew.

The few islanders we had an opportunity of observing were
all niiked, dirty, of a middling stature^ not well made, and
with skins of a dark dingy brown ; they were covered with
bruises and sores, probably the effect either of drinking kava,
or of a well-known disease very common among them. Most
of the men had lost their front teeth, which they said had been
knocked out in battle by the slings. They were very good
swimmers. Their arms and sides were tattooed in figures of
lizards, goats, musquets, and other things, but by no means so
well executed as the figures we had seen at Nukahiwa. The
ill impression made upon us by these people was so much the
more forcible, as but a very short time before, only on the
seventeenth of May, we had left an island, the inhabitants of
which, as to their stature and admirable proportions, are cer-
tainly to be ranked among the handsomest people upon the.

184

ISLAND OP OWHYHEE.

globe. For the rest, the Sandwich islanders, probably from
their more frequent intercourse with European nations, appear
to have much greater affinity with them than the people of Nu-
kahivva. Cabri was so little pleased with either the men or the
women, that he could not resolve to live among them, and
earnestly entreated Captain Krusenstern, who would have set
him on shore here, to carry him on to Kamschatka. The lan-
guage of Owhyhee seems to differ very much from that pf Nuka-
hiwa, since Cabri, who spoke tlie latter fluently, could not make
himself understood here. By the assistance of some English
words we succeeded better.

The canoes of these islands are Ir^ht, and very neatly con-
structed ; they prove that the people have made a much
greater progress in naval architecture than those of Nuka-
hiwa ; they go out to sea in them many miles. The coast,
in the part about which we cruized, is pleasant and well-culti-
vated : we observed many groves of bananas and cocoa-nuts.
Our attention was particularly attracted by the majestic moun-
tain Mowna Roa. According to former observations, its point
Should be two thousand five hundred and seventy-eight toises
abpve the level of the sea, but our indefatigable astronomer.
Doctor Horner, calculated it at only two thousand two hun-
dred and fifty-four.

This lofty mountain, which is between three and four hun-
dred toises higher than the Peak of Teneriffe, rises so gradually
from the sea-shore to its summit, that it has a very remarkable
and most pleasing appearance ; in no other place can any one
ascend to so great a height with so little difficulty. A part

ISLAND OF OWBTHEC.

185

of this facility arises from the vrarmth of the climate ; since
notwithstanding its great height, even the very summit scarcely
reaches the snow mark at so short a di&tance from the equator.
At the time of year when we saw it, the summit was entirely
free from snow. How many unknown plants might here be
discovered, and what contributions might be collected towards
the -geography and natural history of plants I It were much to
be wished that some zealous naturalist would renutin at least a
year upon thi» island to study these subjects.

We quitted Owhyhee on the tenth of June, without having
been able to obtain the least information with respect to the
present state of the island. As I afterwards passed the winter of
1805 and 1806 upon the north-west coast of America, I had
then an opportunity of learning some particulars, which will
perhaps be better given in this place.

The group of the Sandwich Islands is very commodious for
all ships going to the north-west coast of America, to the Aleu-
tian Islands, or to Kamscliatka, to touch at ; it has very secilre
bays. Here may be procured abundance of swine, bread-fruit,
bananas, cocoa-nuts, taro, yams, batatas, salt, wood, water,
and other things particularly desirable for ship stores. The
ships of the United States of America touch here almost every
year, in their way to the north-west coast of their continent.
The object of these voyages made by tlie Americans is to col-
lect the sea-otter skins, which are so highly valued by tlie Chi-
nese, and carry them to Canton. For these skins they give
iron wares, cloth, knives, hatchets, kitclien utensils, rice,
molasses, biscuit, powder, and flints. This trade has been

B B

186

ISLAND OF OWHYHEE.

carried on principally, since the English, as well as the Spa-
niards, have deserted Nootka Sound, and given up their former
establishments there. The exchange must be extremely profit-
able, since not less than seven or eight ships annually go to
Nootka, Queen Charlotte's, and Norfolk Sound. If they do
not get a good cargo of sea-otter skins for Canton, they go in
October or November to Columbo river, or more commonly to
the Sandwich Islands, and winter there, so that they may be
ready the beginning of March to go again to the north-west
coast, and complete their lading.

The number of ships that visit Caracacoa Bay, and the
intercourse that takes place between them and the natives,
has had already so great an influence upon the civilization
of these islands, that they may be said to have advanced in
it with giant strides, and Owhyhee is likely to take the lead
among the South Sea islands, in becoming a polished and civi-
lized country.

Their king, Tomoomah, from his constant intercourse with
the sea-officers of the American States, and particularly under
the instruction of Mr. Young and Mr. Davie, who have
already lived with him some years, and are, as it were, his
ministers, has introduced many European customs, and has
brought the English language so much into use, that most
of the inhabitants of the island of any rank or distinction can
now speak English. Tomoomah has found means to subject
all the islands to his jurisdiction, so that he is become sole
sovereign of the whole group. He was soon made to com-
prehend the value of silver, and to prefer selling the products

ISLAND OF OWHYilEE. 18?

of his country to the ships that visited it for Spanish dollars
or piastres. As soon as he had got a tolerable sum together, he
bought a ship of an American merchant, and manned it partly
with his own people, and partly with foreign sailors, of whom
there are many now living in Owhyhee. The seamen of the
United States like so well to revel in a superfluity of the pro-
ductions of nature without much labour, and to have hand-
some young girls at their disposal, that a ship scarcely ever
touches here without leaving one or more of its sailors be-
hind ; the king, however, will not permit any one to stay
who has not a good character from his captain. Through the
instruction of these guests, the islanders are become very fond
of a seafaring life, and thej-- make excellent sailors. While I
was on the north-west coast of America, I saw and talked with
several natives of Owhyhee serving as sailors on board vessels fronjt
Boston, who received as pay ten or twelve piastres per month.

They have got to make cordage of all kinds, and fishing nets
in so much perfection in Owhyhee, probably from the threads
oi the phormium verax, that ships are supplied with them, and
they are considered as more durable for tackling than the
European cordage. - . ;

Tomoomah, in every thing he does, shews a strong under-
standing, and great activity of mind . He has increased his
power at sea so much within a short time, that in the year
1806 he had fifteen ships in his possession, among which were
some three-masted vessels, brigs, and cutters. In - the same
year he made known to the agent of the Russio- American
trading company, Von Baranoff, at New Archangel in Norfolk

bd2

188

ISLAND OF OWHYHEE.

Sound, that he understood from persons trading to that coast
how much the Russian establishment had sometimes suffered
in winter from a scarcity of provisions ; that he would there-
fore gladly send a ship every year with swine, salt, batatas,
and other articles of food, if they would in exchange let
him have sea-otter skins at a fair price ; and thef^ he purposed
to send upon speculation to Canton*.

But the thing which more than any other occupies his at-
tention is ship-building, and he already can point out with
great accuracy and judgment the excellencies and faults in the
construction of a vessel. All tools and implements beloi^ing
to ship-building are therefore considered by him as of particular
value, and are the most advantageous articles of traffic that
can be carried to the island. Any sailor, who is at the same
time a ship-carpenter, is particularly welcome ; he is imme-
diately presented with lands, and almost any thing that he
wants. >

A few years ago a most extraordinary and valuable discovery
was made at Owhyhee, of a sort of wood growing there, which
it is said the worms, that do so much mischief in these
waters by boring into the ships, will not touch. This, if ever
duly established, will render the sheathing vessels with copper,
an otherwise absolutely necessary precaution, wholly super-
fluous. Among the products of Owhyhee is the sugar-cane. If

• Thi« interconse, as I haTe learnt sidce my rctura to St. Peteriburgh, has abso.
lutely commenced. Tht Imptrial Rusiiaa trading company not only i«rt a ship froM
Norfolk Sound to OwbyhM to trade with the kiag for pro*iiions, but erea boufht •
cutter of hiffl.

ISLAND OF OWHYHEE. 139

tliis were cultivated to any degree of perf5ection, in time Kams-
chatka, and indeed all Siberia, might be supplied with sugar
from hence. >"■ i^ » i

The wars, and political relations of Europe, have of late
years so entirely engrossed the attention of all ranks and classes
of people, that even the f^peculative eye of the merchant has
been turned from other objects and chained to these alone. But
if ever the freedom of the seas be re-established, and ships of
all nations be allowed to range at targe as heretofore, then it
may be hoped that the advantages which Cook, La Perouse,
Meares, Portlock, Vancouver, Le Marchand, Broughton, Cap-
tain Krusenstem, and many others, have pointed out as easiljr
to be derived from trading witii these islands, will not remain
wholly neglected.

On the tenth of June, at six in the evening, we took leave
r . our companion the Neva, from which we were now to be se-
parated, with a reciprocal exchange of three cheers. Captain
Lisiansky was destined to sail with this ship to the north-west
coast of America. As he was not so much pressed for time as
ourselves, he determined to cast anchor for some days in Cara-
cacoa Bay to refresh his crew. Captain Krusenstern, however^
judged it necessary to take a decisive resolution; and since
in four days we had not been able to obtain any provisions from
the coast, he determined to lose no more time in uncertain
attempts, but to make the best of his way without any &rtber
delay, to Kamschatka.

Nothing remarkable occurred during the first days of this

190

VOYAGE TO KAMSCIIATKA.

idrt

voyage. Our kitchen was very simple ; for the table of the
officers, as well as of the sailors, was served only with salted
meat and biscuit ; to which was added, through the medium of
the latter, a sort of small beetle, the dermestes niceus. In fact,
these insects had nestled themselves in such abundance among
our stock of biscuit, that we were obliged to examine every
morsel very accurately before we could venture to put it into
our mouths.

The uncommon number of birds that we saw when we
were in 17' north latitude, and 169° 30' western longitude,
attracted our attention very much, and excited again a hope
that we might discover some unknown 'island: this hope, how-
ever, as in the former instance, proved abortive. The geogra-
phical sailor would render a very great service in taking for the
subject of his inquiries, the vast waste of sea between the
western coast of America and Japan, with the islands that lie
to the south of Japan, or in other words, between the twenty-
fourth and forty-fifth degrees of northern latitude; and in
giving rules whereby navigators might understand accurately
the signs of being in the neighbourhood of land. There
can be scarcely any doubt that not only here but elsewhere,
a vast many undiscovered islands still exist ; but where they are
must be the object of future examinations. I do not know of
any navigators going from the north-west coast of America to
Canton, that have not discovered, some in one place, some in
another, signs of land at no great distance: to the best of my
knowledge, however, nothing has yet been discovered in the
parallel between the eighteenth and twenty-sixth degrees of
northern latitude, but some low sand islands, which render the

VOYAGE TO KAMSCIfATKA.

191

navigation very dangerous. From comparing the testimonies
of all who have hitherto run this course, deductions may be
made which will lead future navigators to take a different di-
rection, whence, doubtless, fresh discoveries will arise. In my
voyage from Norfolk Sound to the coast of New Albion, in
1806, from latitude 37° to 39° north, and longitude 217" to
228° west, I observed almost daily tokens of land not very far
off. But of this more in the sequel. . . , ,

The twenty-seventh of June was in many respects a very re*
markable day to us. We crossed the Tropic of Cancer in
181° 50' western longitude, the sun being then in its zenith.
The degree of heat was from twenty-one to twenty-two. The
air being uncommonly calm, and the sea uncommonly smooth*
our worthy captain lent Dr. Horner and myself one of the
boats, for the purpose of making our respective observations ;
the Doctor's, upon the temperature, the transparency, the cur-»
rents, and the saltness of the sea ; and mine upon the natural
history of such objects as might come within my reach. ,

According to the observations made by the Doctor, the warmth
of the sea upon its surface was then 20* 5'; but at the depth of a
hundred and twenty-five fathom it was only 13^ 3'. The dif-
ference in the temperature of the water, between the surface and
twenty-five fathom depth, was only 1" ; between the surface and
fifty fathom, 3° 9' ; and between the surface and a hundred and
twenty-five fathom, 7° 2'.

The nuoiber of zoophytes and mollusca, of heroes, of salpce*
of Medusse, of seasquills, of cyclops mulleri, of zoea htifer, of

199 VOTAGE Ta RAMSCirATKA.

pehgka, and various other micrctscopic objects, yrbkh I ibtradj,
astonished me exceedingly. I also found innumerable shoals
of the physalis peiagka, and medusa vetelh ; whicb, ac-
fording to my ideas, varied only from those in the Atlantic
Ocean by their being so much smaller : they were scarcely ao
inch in diameter.

Early in the morning we saw a very large dog-6sh, aijuaius
giaucias, near the ship. Though it appeared to be hungiy, and
to follow us only to catch at any objects o« Ibod that mi^it
come in its way, it would not at first bite when we tlirew out
the angle: at length^ hoMrever, it could not resist the attiaction
of the bait, and was drawn on board, vritk many shouts, acd vast
delight. It measured seven feet and a hall in length, and
weighed two hundred pounds. While we were all standing
over our prize, contemplating it v;ith rapture, a secoiid was ob^'
served close to us. We had again recourse to the angle, and
the creature was so extremely hungry that he caught at it with
the utmost eagerness. We were so much the more rejoiced at
this capture, as we obtained by it a small supply of fresh food.
Altliough tl)e flesh of all the shark tribe is hard, dry, and
tasteless, yet we agreed unanimously, as we feasted upon it the
same evening, that it was extremely well-fiavoured. Some of
the sailors, however, were soon after taken with a violent vo-
miting: but I am rather inclined to ascribe tins to intemperance
in the quantity they had eaten, or to some other casual circum-
stance, than to the nature of the fish. I have very often seen it
brought to market, both at Lisbon and Teueriffe,, and sold to*
„the poor for food.

VOYAGE TO RAMSCHATKA. |«f.f

In 21* northern latitude we lost the trade-wind, and with
it the pleasant sailing we had enjoyed between the tropics.
Cloudy weather with fresh variable winds, and constant
changes in the temperature of the atmosphere, accompanied us
the rest of the way to Kamschatka. On the last day of this
month, in latitude f^Oo, we saw such an immense shoal of
dolphins, that the foam occasioned by them appeared at a little
distance like the sea breaking over rocks.

On the third of July, when we were in latitude 36* north, and
in longitude 191*13* west. Captain Krusenstern directed his
course due M'est, in hopes of falling in with the Rica de Oro, and
Rica de Plata, or the Gold and Silver Islands : their situation is
variously defined even in the best maps, and they have many
times been sought in vaui. The atmosphere was cloudy,
and in the afternoon a strong east wind rose, which, though at
first favourable to us, soon increased to a storm. In a night so
extremely dark that we could scarcely see the length of the ship
round us, with reefed sails we went at the rate of nine miles an
hour ; so that we were very fortunate in not running upon the
rocks of any Gold or Silver shore.

On the following day, the fourth of July, the wind changed;
notwithstanding which the weather still continued cloudy ; and
as Captain Krusenstern thought the certain loss of time of more
importance than any uncertain pursuit, he judged it better to
abandon researches, the event of which was so extremely
doubtful. To what this experienced navigator says in his ex-
cellent account of our voyage, with regard to these islands,
I am enabled to add that the Dutcli interpreters at Nangasaki,

c c

194 VOYAGE TO KAMSCHATKA.

whom I often questioned upon this subject, were extremely
well acquainted with the names, and represented tiieni as lying
about four ur five days sail from the south-west coast of Japan. As
the Japanese, however,, understand nothing at all of latitude or
longitude, it was very difficult to learn any thing definite upon
the subject.

On the fifth of July, in latitude SB'S?', longitude 194° 30',
we saw a turtle, without, however, any other signs appearing
of land being near. On the sixth, in latitude 40*34', longitude
195° 35', we observed a great many whales, and on the seventh,
some ducks, with an old trunk of a tree : every day the signs
of being not very far from land increased upon us. On the
eleventh, in latitude 49° 16', longitude 199° 49', we saw about
tlie ship a great number of sea-mews, larus, auks, alca, peterels,
procellaria, and albatrosses, diomedea exulans. The peterels in
their long slender wings, though not in the manner of their
flight, somewhat resemble larks or swallows.

On the thirteenth in the morning land was descried from the
mast-head : the sound had in it something heavenly to the ears
of people who had been five months upon the sea, with only the
variation of the few short excursions we made on shore during
the ten days we staid at Nukahiwa : the land we saw might,
moreover, in some respects be regarded as our native shores. A
calm prevented our making much way on the following day ;
and we contemplated with a longing eye the promontory of
Schibunskoy-Noss, which lay before us. We were in latitude
53° 6' north, and in longitude 200°, nearly the situation of the
harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul.

VOYAGE TO KAMSCIIATKA. I95

The liii^h ridges of luoimtains, the peaks covered with eternal
snow, the flaming volcanoes, presented an appearance wholly-
new to us ; and as we were so far advanced in summer, we could
not help doubting whether it really was snow with which we
saw the upper half of the mountains covered*. How little
soever we were at Jirst j^leased with the prospect presented to
us, and how much soever our minds were prejudiced by the ill
reports generally made of this country, yet the nearer we ap-
proached to the coast, the more we were disposed to conceive a
better opinion of it. On the fifteenth in the morning a brisk
gale sprung up, and the green forests with which the lower
mountains were covered, surprised us with their beauty and
pleasant appearance. Since we quitted Brazil we had seen
no country which presentcu to us views so line as this ill-famed
peninsula. The fine woods of birch, and the grassy hills in the
foreground, resembled an European landscape so much, that
we really coald almost believe ourselves in our native country ;
even the high Alps in the back ground, which had made so
unpleasant an impression upon our minds the day before, were
now admired as grand features adding much to the general
effect.

Towards noon we had reached the entrance of the great bay
of Awatscha, in which, assisted by the excellent charts of Cook
and SaritschefF, we proceeded forwards without any difficulty.

* Ai the line of perpetual snow is 46", which gives in Europe fourteen hundred and
sixty toisss aboTC the level of the sea, I believe the medium height of these mountains ii>
Kamschatka may be taken at a thousand toiset. Suim- peaks in this peninsula, partlcti.
larly that of Glutscheffskaia, I should estimate at two tlioutuud toisos.

c c 2

196 STAY AT KAMSCHATKA.

The clouds of sea-mews which covered the I'ugged rocks around,
seemed to give us a hearty welcome. As the cry of this bird
has a strong resemblance to the human voice, some of our com-
pany thought that it yvas the inhabitants calling to us from
the nearest hills. Besides the mews, there was an immense
number of auks, ducks, pelicans, and other birds not known
to us.

We had but 'just entered Awatscha bay, when we saw a boat
with an officer rowing towards us. As soon as he heard who we
were, he told us that they had some time before heard from St,
Petersburgh of our voyage, and of the probability of our visiting
this country. He immediately hastened back to the town to
give information of our arrival, so that when we entered the
harbour we were welcomed with the thunder of the cannon.
We returned the salute with the like number of guns from our
vessel. At one o'clock we cast anchor, after a voyage of thirty-
five days from the island of Owhyhee.

Petropaulowsk lies upon a creek in the northern part of
Awatscha bay. The harbour is separated from the bay by a
neck of land, which shelters and protects it from all winds. The
town stands in a small valley, at the northern extremity of
which is a large fresh-water lake. The houses, not more than
thirty in number, are all constructed of wood, and, as in all
other parts of the Russian empire, are composed of beams, or
trunks of trees laid one over the other. The garrison consists
of a hundred and fifty soldiers, a company of artillerymen, and
some Cossacks. Here live, besides, the commissary of the
Russio- American trading company, and a clergyman, though

STAY AT KAMSCHATKA.

197

there is no church. The harbour, according to the testimony
of all seamen, is one of the best to be found upon the globe ;
and it is highly probable that by increasing industry, and a
more active intercourse with China, Japan, America, the
Aleutian Isles, and other islands in the South-Sea, St. Peter
and St. Paul, may in time become the centre of a very profitable
trade, and rise into a flourishing and populous town. The
climate of Kamschatka is better than what is to be found in
the same degree of latitude in Siberia; but about St. Peter and
St. Paul the air is colder than in some of the more northern
partg of the peninsula. ^

The harbour is open for the ingress and egress of vessels from
April till November: the bay is but seldom even partially
frozen, never entirely. Snow, it is true, is universal in the
neighbourhood of the harbour, more than in any other part, so
that the low dwellings are entirely covered with it; but it melts
early, and is soon absorbed by the ground, which it protects
from being ever more than slightly frozen. At the end of April,
or in the very coldest seasons, at the beginning of May, spring
may be expected, and the cattle, of which indeed there is no great
abundance, are turned out to grass. Very little ground is tilled
here : it is pretended that the sea air is injurious to the growth
of corn, but I suspect this to be only an excuse for laziness.
Potatoes, turnips, radishes, and many other culinary vege-
tables, which thrive here extremely well, are, notwithstanding,
cultivated very sparingly. We were besides informed that hus-
bandry, as well as the breeding of cattle, has made a very great
progress in the interior of the country ; that is to say, about
Wirchnoi, Glutscheffskaia, and other parts.

ll'S

STAY AT KAMSCHATKA.

Major Krupskoy, commandant of the place at Petro-
paulowsk, gave us the best reception which his situation
would permit. The commander-in-chief of the peninsula,
Major-General Von Koscheleff, Chief of Battalion, does not
live here, but at Nischney Kamschatka, the capital of the
province, seven hundred versts from hence. The ambassador
to the court of Japan, Von Resanoff, who wished most ear-
nestly for an interview with him, dispatched a messenger to
request that he would come down to the harbour as soon as pos-
sible ; this circumstance, which, from the distance, occasioned
a very great loss of time to us, m^rl^ gn essential difference in
the future progress of our voyag*^

»
Captain Krusenstern immediately began to unload the stores
which were sent from Cronstadt for the use of Kamschatka,
that at our arrival in Japan there might be nothing on board
except the presents destined for that place ; thus, as he hoped,
obviating every appearance to this suspicious nation, of the
expedition being sent for purposes of trade. A part of the sol-
diers and inhabitants of the place assisted, that the unloading
might be the more speedily accomplished, and that the vessel
might sooner be ready to sail again. Another part, by the
orders of Major Krupskoy, applied themselves to fishing and
hunting, that we might be well provided with fresh provisions
of all sorts.

Counsellor Tilesius and myself had hitherto made very little
progress in learning the Russian language, and we felt now, for
the first time in our voyage, how great a disadvantage it is to
be in a foreign country without understanding the language.

STAY AT KAMSCHATKA. |fj^

How earnestly soever we entreated the ambassador to pro-
cure us a guide for the purpose of accompanying us in an
excursion into the country, we were never so fortunate as to
have our wishes fulfilled ; he had no power over the soldiers,
and they were besides for the most part employed on board'
the ship ; there were very few Kamschadales and Cossacks
in the place, and those few were sent out on fishing and
hunting parties. Alone, and without a guide, we could not
venture far from the settlement ; the number of bears and
wolves, the impenetrable grass almost as high as ourselves, the
bogs, the forests, all presented obstacles not to be encountered
with safety. We found ourselves, therefore, wholly discouraged
in our scientific pursuits, and were obliged to be contented
with visiting the little village of Awatscha, about twelve versts
from Petropaulowsk, in company with several of our seafaring
companions. This place consists of five houses and thirty
inhabitants, all Kamschadales, who live by fishing and hunt-
ing. The village of Paratunka, the clergyman and inhabitants-
of which are so well known from the voyages of Captain Cook
and La Perouse, and who lived at that time in great affluence,
were now no more : the name alone existed ; and this is a
fate which, alas ! has been shared by too many others in the
peninsula. •

The political situation of the country has indeed changed
very much since it was visited by these illustrious navigators.
Nischney Kamtschatka is now the principal town, instead of
Bolschoiretsk ; and instead of a civil government there is now
a military one. The Emperor Paul, desirous to restrain the
constantly increasing population of the peninsula, some ten or

500

STAY AT KAMSCHATKA.

twelve years before ordered a battalion of eight hundred men
thither from the regiment of Irkutsk, as a sort of rural militia
to promote husbandry and agriculture. The intention was
good, butj as is often the case, it was frustrated by a variety of
tdverse circumstances.

These troops were carried to their destination at a very great
expence, and supported there at a still greater. They were
brought from Irkutsk, a distance of six thousand versts, well
furnished with clothes, arms, ammunition, and every thing they
could want, so that they had nothing to do but to mount guard
and watch their magazines. Dirty, slothful, negligent, and
entirely ignorant of husbandry, they haU been, ever since their
first coming, of much more prejudice than use to the country ;
they had become a heavy burden to the Kamschadales, had
drained them in every possible way, and laid the foundation
both of physical and moral depravity among them ; so that if
the government does not speedily interfere, the poor simple
natives, who are already reduced from ten thousand to three
thousand, will be soon wholly extirpated

On the twelfth of August, the long and impatiently expected
General Von Koscheleflf arrived at Petropaulowsk. He waj?
accompanied by his younger brother and Captain FoedorofF,
with six^^y soldiers whom the ambassador had desired to see.
The continuation of our voyage to Japan, which had been ren-
dered almost doubtful by the long stay we were obliged to
make here, and from the expected speedy change of the mon-
soon, was at length determined on, and our departure fixed for
the twentieth of August. Three of our company, Major Count

STAY AT KAMSCHATKA.

SOI

Tolstoy, Lieutenant of the Guards of his Imperial Majesty,
Doctor Prikin, the Physician to the Embassy, and the**
Draughtsman lo the expedition, Mr. Kurlandzoff, being tired
of a seafaring life, chose rather to return by land than to be
any longer the sport of the waves. In their place, the brother '*
of General Koscheleff and Captain Foedoroff were taken as
cavaliers to the embassy, and it was determined besides to take
^ eight soldiers as a military guard of honour. We had been
'much indebted to our draughtsman for many interesting
sketches which he took while he remained with us.

After the arrival of the General, the town was much more
gay and lively. Instead of living almost entirely upon fish, of
which we began to be somewhat tired, oxen in plenty were
now killed, and we had besides the flesh of wild sheep and rein-
deer. We were truly rejoiced to find in the General a man who,
enlivened our society, who gave us a great deal of interesting
information respecting the situation of the peninsula, and who
procured us provisions of various sorts with the utmost readi-
ness and dispatch. We obtained, through his interposition, a
number of live oxen and a large quantity of salt fish, among
which the tschawitscka was by far the best and finest flavoured ;
pulse, rein-deer, salted geese, and other productions, wei*e
brought us from the more distant parts. The quantity and
variety of things which we collected all together convinced
us that Kamschatka is not so poor and miserable a country a»
it is usually represented.

The General gave us a ball in a tent which had been set up
by the ambassador V»>n Resanoff. The female part of the

D D

30S SVAY AT KAMSCHATKA.

company consisted of Madame Krupskoy, with tlie wives of
the subaltern officers and soldiers, and some Kamschadale
women ; the latter were dressed after the Russian fashion, in
silks, satins, and nankeens. We had here an opportunity of
seeing the Kamschadale dance, which consisted of imitations of
bears, dogs, and birds. We had indeed ample reason to en-
tertain the utmost gratitude towards General Koscheleif for the
readiness he evinced to render us every possible service, and for
all the politeness and attention he shewed us.

By the end of August every thing was in readiness to set
sail. The ship left the harbour for Awatscha Bay, where it
was detained by contrary winds and thiick fogs till the sixth of
September, but the weather then becoming more favourable,
on the seventh, early in the morning, we proceeded on our
embassy to Japan r . ' « «

ML"

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

fOS

r.'' i .■■•

.J;*-;,

CHAPTEE IX.

J . ,. -■ „

Voyage to Japan. — Introduction to the Embasty thither, — Departure from
Kamschatka.— -Occurrences during the Voyage.— Festival of the Ctro-.
nation.-^Frightful Hurricane. — Arrival at Japan.

The embassy to Japan was, both in a political and geogra-
phical point of view, the most interesting part of our expedi-
tion. This island, which is very little known, and of which the
little knowledge we have is principally through Kaempfer,
Thunberg, and Charlevoix, has for near two centuries shunned
almost all intercourse with European and other nations : with
the Dutch alone have the Japanese carried on a very insigni-
ficant intercourse of trade.

As Japan has no other European neighbour excepting Russia,
this kingdom may be said to have, naturally, the strongest
claims upo]» its friendship ; and the importance of a regular
intercourse with this island did not escape the acute mind of the
Empress Catherine. No sooner was she informed that a mer-
chant of Japan, by name Kodai, together with some other
persons who had been wrecked some years before upon the Kurile
islands, were living in Siberia, than she eagerly embraced th«
opportunity of shewing them the utmost hospitality. She
invited Kodai to St. Petersburgh, and alter displaying to him

« o i^

204 VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

all the pomp and splendour of her then brilliant court ; after
heaping upon him every possible token of respect and kindness,
gave him a vessel to return to his native country. Upon this he
repaired to Ochotsk, and in 1792 was conveyed by a sea officer.
Lieutenant Adam Laxmann, son of the celebrated naturalist, to
Atkis, a harbour in Matraai, on the north-east coast of Japan.
The Governor-General of Siberia sent a letter by Laxmann to
the Emperor of Japan, in which, in the name of his imperial mis-
tress, he made known the motive of the voyage, and proposed, in
order to promote a closer friendship and union between the two
nations, to establish a regular intercourse of trade. Some pre-
sents, not of very great value^ were also sent in her majesty's
name, to the !]£mperor of Japan, at his capital city of Jedo.

Kodai, who possessed great discernment and penetration of
mind, and had during his stay in Russia studied the language
very assiduously, now'took upon himself, partly from gratitude
to his Russian benefactors, partly with a view to his own in-
terest, to serve them during their stay at Atkis as interpreter,
in such matters of business as might occur between them and
his country. After the lapse of some months, Laxmann re-
ceived, instead of a letter, or an answer to the Empress, or the
Governor-General, a sort of paper of instructions, the contents
of which were nearly as follows :

•• That from the most remote times to that moment, the laws
of the kingdom of Japan had been fixed and irrevocable, and
never could be shaken : That he (Laxmann) had come from his
own country with people confided to his care, whom chance and
the accidents of weather had thrown upon a foreign coast, and

TOTAGE TO JAPAN. (QS

from ignorance had not come to Nangasaki, bul to a part of
the coast of Japan, where foreign vessels were rtot permitted to
come: this was a thing never before known in the country.

That it is a law that all ships coming to Japan, how nu-
merous soever they may be, are immediately put imder arrest ;
the rather if they happen to be armed.

t«

That from the oldest times, the Dutch, as a nation with
whom they had always lived in friendship, had been permitted
to come to Nangasaki, but never to go into the interior of the
country ; but he, without having the least acquaintance with
Japan, had ventured to come, with the Japanese entrusted to
him, in an armed vessel. ' n^ ,i i , ;* ;. -<i ■ * ., .> - <;i- -

..-■.ii,

'^i;

*• The consequence, in strictness, ought to be that he should
be for ever prohibited returning to his own country ; but con-
sidering that he is a stranf^er, unacquainted with the laws, and
has not knowingly and intentionally acted in opposition to them,
his return will be permitted ; the rather as he has been de-
puted by his government, to convey thither some subjects of
Japan entrusted to his care, and has fulfilled his mission with
so much fidelity and kindness. Permission to return is, how-
ever, only granted on condition that he on no account again
attempts to run into a forbidden harbour.

As Japan has never hitherto entered into any friendly
intercourse with Russia, and consequently is ignorant of the
degree of dignity at which the Russian empire is arrived ; and
as it is impossible by means of a letter to judge of its greater or

205 VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

less extent, or to know what -customs and usages prevail in the
country, no means are therefore presented of judging how far
the two countries are agreed in their ideas
respect or contempt being shewn by certain actions*.

with regard to

** On this ground, and on account of this imperfect know-
ledge, no answer can be sent to tha letter from Russia, except
by receiving the people whom chance had sent thither, and on
whose account it was written : any &rther intercourse with them
is not desired.

** As to what concerns future ties of friendship, no treaty
upon the subject can be carried on in the harbour of Atkis ; and
as little can any permission be given for foreigners to come to
the capital city of Jedo. Merchants of other nations, after
the establishment of friendly relations, can only come to the
places pointed out to them.

" For the rest, it is a law to treat all ships of war, let them
come to what harbour or landing-place they will, with the
utmost strictness, not to enter into any intercourse with them,
or receive any excuses they may oflfer."

* The govcrnmeat of Japap means here to liint, that according to their cuitoms, it is
pot allowable for any body to write directly to the Emperor. This law was inculcated
Tcry strongly upon Captain Laxmann before he left the country, cither verbally or by
letter. They hold that nobody, not even ihe greatest potentate in the world, should
^drcsB the emperor htoiself : the minister of the foreign pawer vaatt. write to the minister
of Japa,n, and the latter must communicat* the business in question to his sovereign. That
the Governor.General of Siberia had therefore writtsn to the emperor, was a crime little
fliojt of high treason against the dignity of the latter.

tOITAGE TO JAPAN. f07

As the last point of instruction, the paper concluded with
saying: " You, Laxmann, liave leave to come to the harbour
of Nangasaki, on producing our permission h re remitted to
you ; but without producing it, you are not permitted to enter
even tliere."

The permission ran nearly in the following terms. '* En-
trance to the harbour of Nangasaki is permitted to a ship of the
great Russian empire ; but, as we have already declared, it is
strictly forbidden to foreign vessels to land in any other place.
We also repeat that the Christian religion cannot be permitted
in our kingdom ; and we therefore make it «, condition that
during their stay no act of religious worship is to be performed ;
and in case any agreement should be entered into in future, that
nothing shall be done contrary to our laws as laid down in the
above schedule. As our authority for coming on these con-
ditions, we give this our act to Adam Laxmann."

The disturbed state of Europe was the principal reason why
so many years had been suffered to elapse, without any use
being made of the above permission. It was reserved for the
glorious reign of our gracious monarch Alexander the First, at
the suggestion of his illustrious minister Count Romanzoff, to
undertake a voyage of discovery round the world, and to unite
with it an embassy to the island of Japan. There was the
greatest reason to hope and expect that the latter would be
attended with the happiest consequences, as the permission to
enter the harbour of Nangasaki was still in existence. Besides,
a few years after the return of Captain Laxmann, that is in
.1796, another large vessel from Japan had been wrecked upoa

208 VOTACE TO JAPArf.

the Aleutian isleinds, and a fresh reason for the voyage was
therefore furiiislieU, to carry back to their native country the
unfortunate sufterers who had been rescued from this disaster •.
It was under these circumstances that the Count Von Resanoff
was appointed to this embassy, for which ho was provided with
very rich and expensive presents of objects of European arts
and manufactures of various kinds.

Thus equipped, on the seventh of September, J 804, we
quitted the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul in Kamschatka,
and, full of pleasing expectations, directed our course towards'
Japan. • • , • . »• - •,■ "

During the first days of our voyage we had tolerably favour-
able weather ; but on the morning of the eleventh a strong east
wind rose, which by two o'clock in the afternoon increased to a
violent storm ; nor did it abate the whole night through. The
waves ran higher than we had yet seen them in any part of our
voyage, not excepting in the sailing round Cape Horn. On the
following morning the wind suddenly abated, but the waves
still ran high, and the ship was so tossed about and buffeted by
them, that she seemed like a cork : this we all found not a little

* These Japanese, who lired for some years at Irkutsk, were, at the tine when ''::*
•xpeditioD was in preparation, sent for to St. Pctersburgh, and receiTed there with great
hospitality. After they had been presented with money, clothes, and watches, all those
who had nof embraced the Christian religion were declared to be at full liberty- to stay In
Russia, or to return to their natire country, according to their own free choice. Out of
lifted), fivp only chohC to return ; the rest went Toluntarily back to Irkutsk. One of
them, by name Nicolauj Kolotichin, is now professor of the Japanese language at the
Gynoaiium there, and has six or eight pupik under kis initruction.

VOfAGE TO JAPAN. fl09

wearying. We had never experienced such a storm since we
quitted the shores of Europe ; and although the ship had been
carefully caulked while we were at Kanischatka, it leaked so
much, that we were obliged to keep the pumps constantly at
work. The partition of the cabin by the chimney fell down ;
and as there was a constant fog, with small rain, the water came
cJ. rough the breach, so as entirely to prevent our drying the
bo'^ks, papers, and clothes, which had been wetted : this made
our situation still more uncomfortable. We now saw almost
daily small land-birds, and whales in great abundance.

Oil the ^fteenth, at noon, we being then in 39" ^T northern
latitude, 2C: ' i ' 30' western longitude, to our inexpressible con-
solation the weather cleared, and we perceived very sensibly that
we had got into a warmer climate. Instead of the cold damp
fog, we had now clear dry days, and warm moonlight nights.
The thermometer, which had hitherto seldom been above
10', suddenly rose to 18% and an invariably fresh and favourable
north-east wind carried us on so fast, that we soon lost all
apprehension of our voyage being protracted so as to carry us
into the stormy season in these seas. We seldom went less than
eight or nine miles in an hour.

According to what is stated in numbers of maps, we ought
now to have been in the neighbourhood of Vulcan's island,
the existence and situation of which Captain Krusenstern was
anxious to ascertain with precision. From his researches, it is,
however, very clear that this island, said to be in the thirty-
seventh degree of northern latitude, and the two hundred and
fourteenth of western longitude, will there be sought for in vain.

SIO

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

The same may be said of the Tslas Xuevas of 1716, of those of
1664, of Penia de los Picas, and others; if they exist at all, it
is not in the places hitherto assigned them in the maps* To
correct errors, and ascertain the non-existence of pretended
islands, is of no less importance in geographical concerns than
to discover new ones.

On the twenty-seventh of September, the coronation festival
of our beloved monarch, his Imperial Majesty Alexander the
Fir^t, was celebrated in these regions so remote from his capital.
The ambassador, who had the greatest possible command of
his native language, on this occasion made a solemn harangue
upon deck to the whole ship's company. To shew his powers
of oratory, I here give a translation of it, though I am sen-
sible that much of the strength of the original is lost by its
being put into another language.

•* Russians,

** In our voyage round the world, we are at length arrived
in the waters of Japan. Love of their country, dignity of
soul, talents in business, defiance of danger, perseverance,
subordination, mutual esteem, gentleness and forbearance
towards each other, — these are the characteristics which distin-
guish the Russian seaman, these the virtues by which the
Russians in general are distinguished.

** You, officers of the navy, approved conauctors of the
Hope •, well have you deserved the gratitude of your fellow-^

* Kadefchda, which was the name of our ship, signifies Ilori

VOYAGE TO JAPAN t||

citizens •. you have already acquired a degree of renown, of which
jealousy itself can never deprive you.

** You, cavaliers, and associates in the embassy, my wor-
thy companions and assistants, still remains to us the accom-
plishment of the brilliant objects on which we are sent, the
opening to our country new sources of wealth and knowledge.
— And you, sailors, cherished children of the sea service, re-
joice ! The happy end of your diligent exertions is almost
attained. ,

'' Long have our hearts and minds been united in serving
with zeal and delight the excellent monarch by whom we ar^
deputed to these parts, and may gratitude towards this beloved
ruler still strengthen and animate us in the pertbrmance of our
arduous task. The present is a solemn day to all the sons of
Russia, but to none so solemn as to us, who are touching the
borders of the Japanese dominions, who are the first to see the
glorious Russian flag wave in the harbour of Nangasaki.

" As representative of our most g-TScious £mperor, and as
witness of your great exploits, it was no less flattering to me to
share your toils and dangers, than it is now gratifying solenmly
to testify the gratitude which awaits you al} iji future in the
bosom of our dear native country.

" I solemnize the festival of Alexander the First's corona-
tion in the waters of Japan, and make it for ever memorable
to you as a reward of your services. You have here the like-

JS G <^

212

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

ness of our beloved Emperor : wear it as your greatest ornament,
as a testimony of the zeal and diligence in his service, through
which it has been acquired. Recollect always in beholding it,
that this imposes upon you still more strongly the obligation
of continuing true to those duties of which your forefathers were
so proud, and by which they arrived at the. highest pinnacle of
fame. You will learn sincerely to bless the times in which the
merits of the least among his subjects, even in the remotest
regions of the world, do not pass unrewarded from the throne
itself."

In repeating these last words, the ambassador decorated
every one of the crew with a medal which had been struck for
the Emperor's coronation, and on which was his effigy. The
ceremony seemed approved by heaven, as the day was more
than usually beautiful and serene. ^At a jovial dinner, the
health of our august Emperor was drank, when the sea of
Japan resounded for the first time with the thunder of the
Russian cannon.

On the twenty-eighth we saw the coast of Japan, then thirty-
six miles distant from us, but the wind rose somewhat towards
evening, so that we could not approach it. The promontory we
beheld, which, upon the best observation we could make,
appeared to be in latitude 3£° 38' 33' north, and longitude
226° 43' 15' west, seems to be the southern point of Sikokc*.

• This promontory, according to Klaproth, is called in the Japan language Sch«it.
sui.saki, that if, the Cape of Clear Water.

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

SIS

Contrary winds and a cloudy atmosphere, with heavy showers
of rain, prevented us getting nearer to the land.

That excellent seaman and geographer, Captain Von Kru-
senstern, was now incessantly occupied with endeavouring to
ascertain, as accurately as possible, various points relating to
the navigation of these seas, almost unknown to, and unfre-
quented by, European vessels. His contributions towards a
mor€ complete geographical knowledge of them is one of the
most important parts of his work, one which will be read with
particular interest. The maps of Mr. Arrowsmith, though
some of the best existing, we here found extremely defective^

On the twenty-ninth, at day-break, we again saw land, but
this was a pleasure of short duration. A cloudy horizon,
heavy showers of rain which began to fall, and a brisk north-
east wind, made the neighbourhood of the coast so dangerous,
that Captain Krusenstern judged it expedient to keep as far from
it as possible, and to lie to during the night. Soon after, stormy
weather came on, which continued nearly twenty-four hours,
and only abated about noon on the thirtieth, when the sun, for
the first time during several days, burst out. For three days
it had now been almost constantly rainy and stormy, so that
we had reason, on the first of October, when the wind sunk
very much, to hope for a favourable change of weather. At
noon, the weather was become so fine, and the sun shone upon
us so revivingly, that our captain took a westerly direction, in
hopes of gaining the land. We were able to make observations,
and found the latitude 31" 7", the longitude 22T 4(y.

VOYAGE TD JAPAN.

Uncommonly high waves from the south-east, and a con-
siderable fall of the barometer, afforded us but an indifferent
prospect of good weather. Captain Krusenstern therefore
judged it more expedient again to take a southerly direction,
and set as much sail as the ship could carry to bear away from
the land. To this prudent foresight we probably owed our
preservation, as the sequel will shew.

About noon, a great change took place in the atmosphere*:
the barometer fell in a very remarkable manner* and the south-
cast wind grew stronger and stronger at every moment, so that
by one o'clock it blew with such violence, that it was not with-
out difficulty and danger the lower sail^ could be taken in, and
although nearly new, they were almost torn to tatters. With
undaunted resolution, however, the sailors defied the danger,
and wound them up, leaving the upper ones floating to the
masts. Till three o'clock, the storm-sail alone could be car-
ried, but with the increasing fury of the winds even that was
soon demolished. The barometer was at 28" 3'". The waves
rolled in frightful masses, rushing one over the other with the
swiftness of an arrow ; and the heavens were covered with black
clouds, so that by half after four we were involved in a dismal
dreary night.

The rudder had for some time been left loose, and without
any guide : it was wholly impossible to set even a double-reefed

* Here follows a concise description of an almost unparalleled hurricane. In order to
\Vi somewhat more complete, I hare judged it eipedient to join some of the observations
wtAe by Captain .Kruseastcru with my own.

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

21€

Storm-sail, and we became the complete sport of the tossing
waves. At every moment we were afraid of seeing the totter-
ing and creaking masts blown overboard, and every stroke of
the billows seemed to threaten being the finishing stroke of our
existence. The wind rattled among the cordage, and the
motion of the ship constantly increased ; the water beat over it
on all sides, and the crew were almost worn out with incessant
pumping.

The barometer kept constantly falling, and about five
o'clock the quicksilver sunk entirely below the scale, which
was separated at 27" 6'". At first, with the rolling of the ship,
it appeared every now and then, but we were soon deprived
even of this consolation, nor was it to be seen even with the
greatest shocks : its lowest stand during the storm may there-
fore confidently be fixed at 27" ; it is possible that it m^ght even
be taken lower. At this period the raging of the elements was
frightful beyond expression : all nature appeared in commotion
and uproar ; no words, in short, can give any idea of the scene.
Neither officers or crew had any respite from their labours :
their utmost activity was necessary to steer the ship clear of
the repeated shocks it received. Large chests of arms floated
upon the deck : there was no end of the jostling and the noise :
the speaking-trumpet could hardly be heard at the distance of
three steps, and people were every where running backwards
and forwards with lanterns. The sea, rising into mountains,
seemed united with the heavens. It was impossibl<? to trace
the boundaries between the air, the clouds, and the water.
One monstrous wave after another filled t!ic ship, and seemed
sinking it into the abyss : all the household utensils lay about

316 VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

scattered and broken : the guns at the forecastle touched the
water, while every comfort or hope of our lives being saved
vanished in the idea that we were driving every hour three
English miles nearer to the coast, so that in case of the storm
continuing, we must in a short time be wrecked without a
chance of rescue. Every one seemed silently to take a last
farewell of his companions, and resign himself entirely to the
will of him in whose hands alone are life and death.

Soon after eight, when the storm was at its height, the
wind suddenly ceased for the space of five minutes : this was
employed in fastening a reefed storm-sail to the mizen-mast ;
but it was scarcely accomplished, wheh again the wind blew
with as much violence as -"er. Its quarter was, however,
changed from east-south-east to west-south-west. With this
sudden change a monstrous wave dashed directly against the
hinder part of the vessel, tore the gallery away from the left
side, broke through the double partition into the captain's
cabin, and inundated it so completely, that the water was
three feet deep. Expensive books, chairs, tables, maps, pre-
sents designed for Japan, mathematical instruments, clothes,
swam all together about the cabin, and seemed to give a
foretaste of what was soon to follow. It is true, that the sailors
were exhorted to take courage, and endeavour to stop the leak ;
but there was no one I believe who did not think within him-
self at the time, ** It it, however, in vain /" — ** We are notwith-
standing lost /"

Through the sudden and unexpected change of the wind,
which now blew with no less violence from a directly opposite

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

«17

point, we did indeed appear rescued from the danger of being
wrecked upon the coast ; yet the continued fury of the storm
seemed sufficienHy to pronounce our sentence. The wind still
roared, the masts still shook and creaked, and the billows still
rolled over the vessel ; however, to our no small joy, about ten
o'clock we could again, when the ship heaved very much, perceive
the quicksilver in the barometer. Every glimmering of the lamp
of life ready to be quenched excites hope ; and like the arrival of
an old friend, whose presence affords some consolation, we hailed
with delight the ray of comfort thus offered to us. It was the
most certain assurance that could be given of the declining rage
of the storm; and, m fact, by twelve o'clock it began perceptibly
to abate. We had, however, scarcely observed this reviving
change in the barometer, when we were deprived of our com-
forter : it was broken by a violent shock from a wave. This
loss prevented our seeing the gradual ascent of the quicksilver,
and comparing the progress of the variations with that of the
abatement of the storm *. The turbulent sea was now every
moment less and less furious, and the deathlike apprehensions
which had lately filled every bosom subsided gradually ^ the
elements grew more calm.

How transporting to every one was the sight of the sun, as
it rose majestically in the morning. Never did its golden rays
appear to mortals more noble than they now appeared to us :
their revivifying influence impressed our hearts so deeply with
gratitude for our preservation, that with one united voice we

* Dr. Horner took the first opportunity of repairing thii heary lost, by a ipare
tube, with which he had the precaution to proTidt himielf when we were ii England.

r F

318

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

could not forbear exclaiming, as we beheld the orb just above
the horizon, •* Great and glorious are thy works, O
Lord !"

The vessel, on examination, had not suffered so much as
might have been expected : the tackling, however, required a
great deal of repair, and the effects of every soul on board were
more or less damaged. A great deal of furniture was broken to
pieces : clothes, ornamental works, maps, charts, and other
papers of importance, were completely soaked through with
the sea-water : many of the presents destined for the Empe-
ror of Japan, though in double chests, were wetted : the in-
struments and arms were injured : the costly gold cloths, vel-
vets, and silks, had not escaped. Such was the spreading out
of things to dry upon the deck, that there was scarcely a single
spot unoccupied. , ,

It was not till towards noon on the second of October that
the sails could again be set : the wind blew gently from the
west, and we steered northwards. In the evening we once
more saw land in the west-north-west, at a distance of about
forty-five sea-miles. On the third, in the afternoon, we were
within fifteen or twenty miles of that part of the coast of
Japan called Kiusiu. Captain Krusenstern gave the name of
Cape Tschirikoff to a high foreland in latitude 32° 14* 15*
north, and longitude 228* 18' 30* west; to another, which lay
farther southwards, in latitude 31" 51', longitude 228" 33' 30'
he gave the name of Cape Cochrane.

The land we now approached appeared fertile, and afforded
some beautiful views. As night closed in, we saw a number

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

219

of scattered fires along the coast at no very great dyitance
from each other; we supposed them to be signals, and on
our arrival at Nangasaki we found this supposition con-
finned. . . .. .

On the fourth we passed Van Dieraen's Straits. The im-
portant geographical researches and points established with
regard to this part of the southern coast of Japan are given
at large in Captain Krusenstem's excellent work, and illus-
trated with maps. We coasted along the southern shore of
the provinces of Oosumi and Satznma, and were sometimes
so near the land that we could distinguish both the buildings
and the people. Among a very large number of .small fishing-
boats and other vessels, not one ventured to approach our
ship, notwithstanding that the Japanese we had on board
called to them many times loud enough to be heard.

The south-east side of Satzuma presented some very beau-
tiful points of view, appeared extremely well cultivated, and
uncommonly populous. We acquired a high idea of the in-
dustry and knowledge in husbandry among the Japanese : in
this respect the lands left nothing to be wished for. The hills
were cultivated in terraces up to the very summits, and ave-
nues of large spreading trejs gave the fertile landscape an un-
commonly beautiful appearance. On the sixth, M'e came to a
spacious bay : a calm, with a number of rocks and islets which
we perceived in the western horizon, determined us not to
make the experiment of sailing through it ; we therefore turned
back towards the south, and coasted round the island of Meac-
Sima. A number of boats which we saw in the bay, carefully

r F 2

2S0

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

avoided, in conformity with the laws of Japan, approaching
our ship, or entering into any kind of conversation with us.

On the seventh we steered northwards. Early in the morn-
ing we saw the islands of Goto*. In the afternoon we had
approached the south-western coast of them within two or
three miles : they did not present near so woody an appearance
as Satzuma, but they were cultivated to the utmost possible
degree: not the least spot of uncultivated land was to be seen.
The south-western point of these islands lies in latitude
32" 34' 50* north, and longitude 231° 16' west. In the night the
wind permitted our steering to the north-east, and early in the
morning of the eighth of October we saw the mountain and the
part of Kiusiu, in the neighbourhood of which we knew was to
be found the long wished-for harbour of Nangasaki.

At daybreak we saw a fishing-boat, and hailed it. The
fishermen were naked, excepting a cap on the head, and a
covering round the waist : they had taken off their clothes that
they might not be spoiled. In defiance of the interdict, they
came up to us, drank some brandy which we gave them, and
informed us that four days before intelligence was communi-
cated to Nangasaki, by tires in the night, of a three-masted
vessel being off the coast; that at our appearance off the har-
bour, information of it was conveyed by a post of observation

* Goto, according to Klaproth, signifies, in the corrupt Chinese dialect commonly
used in Japan, the Five Islands; and, in fact, this group consists of fire large and sereral
rery small ones. The island of Firando, which lies the most to the north-west, ii
■ot reckoned among them.

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

221

upon the nearest hill; and finally, that there were two Dutch
vessels in the harbour which had come thither in July. They
indicated to us the proper direction to take for entering the
harbour, and we proceeded slowly forwards with a faint breeze.
About one o'clock we arrived at its mouth.

Soon after, at a signal given, a little boat came out, carry*
ing a white flag with a blue cross, and a number of Japanese
characters upon it. Two officers, who were in this boat, seemed
inclined to come on board, but they first made a number of
very minute inquiries concerning us of our Japanese, descend-
ing into the most trivial circumstances. They had frank, open
countenances, and appeared to receive us with great friendship
and politeness. They inquired who we were? Whence we
came ? What were our views in coming? Whether the embassy
was directed solely to Japan? Whether we were armed, and
how many guns we carried ? How long we had been upon our
voyage, and from what port we came last ? Under what flag
we sailed? — with a variety of other things of a similar kind.
They required to see our permission ; and copying it over,
asked, why, having had it twelve years, we now for the first
time availed ourselves of it ? As it had been made known, they
said, over the whole kingdom of Japan, that such a permission
had been given, for four years after a vessel from Russia was
constantly expected ; even now, as they assured us, one of the
Japanese, who had been brought back by Laxmann, was living
at Nangasaki, with the intention of serving as interpreter at the
arrival of the Russians*.

* We did not in tbe sequel find this information confirmed.

nit

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

But the principal end of all the inquiries seemed to be
the desire of ascertaining whether we really were Russians:
with this view, they requested at their departure to have a
billet written in the Russian language, the contents of which
might give satisfaction on this point. Towards two o'clock we
reached, with a still feeble wind, the entrance of the inner
harbour, on which stands Nangasaki. Between five and six
came another boat with two officers, to indicate to us, by order
of the governor, the place where we might anchor. They
remained with us till about six in the evening, when we cast
anchor in the bay of Nangasaki, in thirty-three fathom water,
in the neighbourhood of the Papen Mountain, of the Island of
Iwo-Sima, and of Cape Facunda, four miles from the nearest
land.

The officers sent by the governor would not leave us till we
had given them a written testimonial that they had fulfilled the
orders with which they were entrusted, and indicated to us the
anchoring-place. When we represented to them that we could
only write in the Russian language, they assured us, as before, that
there were people at Nangasaki who understood that language
very well. It appeared, however, subsequently, either that the
idea of some of the Japanese brought home by Lieutenant
Laxmann being still living at Nangasaki was merely presumed
on their part, or else these men were designedly kept out of
our way during our stay there.

STAY AT JAPAN.

8S3

CIIAPTETl X.

Statf at Japan. — Occurrences in the Hood before the Harbour of Nanga-
$aki. — Anchoring-Place before the Papen Mountain. —Change of the
Anchoring-P lace. —Occurrences therefrom the Eighth to the Seventeenth
of October.

The importance and rarity of a party of Russians staying
six months at Japan, will, I trust, plead my excuse, at least
with most people, if I am somewhatcncumstantial in the account
of what passed during this period— if I descend sometimes
even into minutiir. Though to some I may ap; .«; tedious,
I am persuaded that others will be deeply interest :d in ob-
taining a more enlarged acquaintance with the spirit and man-
ners of a nation at present so little known among us Europeans,
nor will think any circumstances too insignificant that
tend to illustrate the national character,. Deeply as 1 feel
how unpleasant it is 'r^ be lulled to sleep by a tiresome and
uninteresting narrative, and desirous, as I have been, to avoid
repetition, I am sensible that I have often been drawn into
it, but this has arisen from the very nature of the things I had
to relate. I can,' however, give the reader this consolation,
that he may, if he pleases, by turning over the leaves, arrive
in a few hours at the result for which we were constrained to
wait six long months. . .

22*

VOYAGE TO JAPAN.

Scarcely had wc cast anchor about seven o'clock on the
eighth of Octol)er, when there appeared, as before, several
officers who came to question us anew. At night, not less
than twenty large and small boats stationed themselves about
our ship, which we could consider in no other light than as
guards. One after another, little paper lanterns of a melon-
like form passed us, which, numerous as they were, pro-
duced a very pretty effect. Towards ten o'clock we observed
several boats, some of which had lanterns, distinguished far
above any we had seen before by their size and beauty, by
having two very bright clear lights, and from being orna-
mented with transparencies representing coats of arms.

At first we began to think that the governor of Nangasaki
was about to honour us with a visit; but we soon after learnt
that it was a person of distinction who came on the part of the
governor, accompanied by his secretary, to welcome us, and
who requested our permission to come on board for that pur-
pose. This being granted, some inferior officers and Dutch
interpreters • came to see the cabin in wnicli the illustrious
guests, the Great Men-\, Opperbanjos, as the Dutch interpre-
ters called them, were to be received. Soon after a, speared the
Great Men themselves, with a numerous train, among which
were several Dutch interpreters. They were received by seven

♦ The Dutch interpreters arc by birth Japanese, who are paid by the gorernment for
learning th« Dutch 'a jgiiage: they arc in number between sixty and seventy, and the
Dutch factory cannot transact any business without their interTeniion.

f In all > arts of Asia with which the Chinese have any concern, Great Man is a title
of high state distiactiun. In the Japanese language it is Daiiitij in the Chinese Doshiiif
kad in the Mandschariao Amban.

STAr AT JAPAN.

S3S

men under arms as a guard of honour, and by beat of drum,
and were immediately presented to the ambassador in the cabin.
All the cavaliers of the embassy, with thie officers of the ship,
were assembled there to receive them.

The Opperbanjos* and the secretary immediately seated
themselves on the sofa with their legs crossed. Some servants
remained, although the cabin was extremely well lighted, hold-
ing lanterns, and an apparatus for smoking, which consisted
of a vessel with hot embers, another with tobacco, aiv! a small
one for spitting. The interpreters knelt in a semicircle round
the sofa.

We soon discovered that these Great Men did not come
upon any very particular business : they seemed rather sent
as a sort of reconnoitering party, than as being commissioned
to welcome the imperial Russian ambassador. They carefully
repeated the same questions already put to us, and our
answers were immediately committed to writing. Among other
things, they particularly inquired concerning the voyage from
St. Petersburgh to Nangasaki ; whether, in coming from
Kamschatka, we had passed between Corea and Japan, or had
sailed round the eastern coast of the island ; and in how many
days we had gone over this course. The answer to this last
question they seemed to consider as of particular importance.
They farther desired to see the original permission ; and ended

* The title of Banjos has the lamc signification as H Great Man, or a statesman of
high dignity. I could ucvcr clearly understand v^hence this word was derived, since, ai
fkr a« 1 know, it is neither Dutch, Japanese, or Mandschurian.

G O

B2G STAT AT JAPAN.

by making us acquainted with a custom in Japan, that all our
powder, cannon, muskets, and swords, should be given up
to be kept in trust for us till our departure. They promised,
moreover, that we should have a supply of refreshments the
next day.

The ambassador now entreated that he might have a speedy
audience of the governor, to shew him the permission himself;
and consented that the powder and fire-arms should be given
up, but not the side arms of the officers and soldiers. He also
entreated to have a safer anchoring-place assigned us within the
harbour, as we were there much incommoded by the wind. To
this request he was piomised an answer the next day.

After we had been fatigued with questions and answers for
more than an hour, the Opperbanjos begged that the chief of the
Dutch factory, Mynheer Doeff, and some persons belonging
to him, might have permission to visit us. We were not a little
surprised at this request, since it appeared to us that these
gentlemen, who sat in a boat near the ship, had morc reasou
to ask such a permission of the Japanese than of us.

Scarcely had the chief, with his secretary, and the captains
of the two Dutch ships then in the harbour, by name JVIusquc-
tier and Bellinar, entered the cabin, than the interpreters were
called upon one after the other to make a compliment i\oui
them to the G;rrt^ .\/rt«, or Opperbanjos. They were obliged
♦;o bow the head during tlic ceremony, and to remain in this
inclined attitude iiil the iiilerpreter told them the compliment
wa* finished. When the interpreters, who, it has been already

STAY AT JAPAN.

227

said, were all kneelina; in the cabin, be^an a conversation with
one of tlie Great Men, they were oblige<l to throw themselves
upon their iiaiids as well as knees, and remain with the head
bent down till the conversation was concluded ; they then
drew in their breath with a kind of hissing noise. The Great
Man spoke so extremely low, that it seemed to us impossible
he should be heard or understood : it was such a gentle lisp,
that it scarcely made any impression upon our organs of hear-
ing. The usual answer of the interpreters consisted only in
ay, aij, which signified yes, or I understand. After midnight
the whole company returned home.

On the morning of the ninth of October nothing occurred
worthy of notice; we remarked upon the number of boats
ornamented with different flags that surrounded us. In many
of them were bows and arrows, and in some the imperial
Japanese sailors, who were distinguished by garments of
large blue and white check. In the afternoon a little boat
brought us fresh provisions, which consisted of fowls, ducks,
radishes, rice, and fish. Soon after came a Dutch interpre-
ter, and announced to us that some very Great Men were
coming : these were the treasurer, who was of equal rank with
the governor, a secretary of the governor, and a Banjos, who
were all sent to welcome us in the name of the Japanese govern-
ment.

About five o'clock in the evening, we observed a large boat
with a blue and white awning, decorated with many flags, and
other tokens of distinction, towed towards us by several others,
to the stroke of the kettle-drums, and to a loud, measured sort
of cry. At their arrival, the Great Men sent to say that they

G G 2

228 STAT AT JAPAN.

could not come oii board our vessel till tlie ambassador, the
captain, and some of the officers, came out to welcome them.
To this the ambassador replied, that it would be inconsistent
with his dignity to go out himself to receive them, but that if
they required it, he would send some of his cavaliers to bid
them welcome in his name. After some messages backwards
and forwards, they said they should be satisfied if the ambas-
sador would only come out to the forecastle of the vessel to
meet them. Some officers then went and greeted the Great Men
with an European bow, and returned back to the ship. The
ambassador at the same time appeared at the forecastle, and
received the magistrates, while the drums beat, and other mili-
tary honours were paid them. The treasurer and secretary, on
their arrival in the cabin, seated themselves upon the sofa, and
the Banjos sat down in a chair, all three in the European
fashion, not with their legs crossed like our visitors the evening
before. They were attended, however, by people carrying the
same smoking apparatus, and the interpreters placed them-
selves upon their knees, in a semicircle round them, to wait
their commands.

The principal motive of the present visit was to regulate the
following points. First, the Japanese required, on the strength
of a very ancient law in thj country, that all tu'nis, that is to
say cannon, muskets, pistols, swords, and sabres, should be
delivered up immediately to the government, to be kept in
trust for us till our departure.

To this the ambassador consented, with the restrictions:
First, that himself and the officers should be allowed to retaiu

STAY AT JAPAN.

1K29

their swords, as a necessary part of the uniform, which could
not be laid aside without degradation to themselves; and
secondly, that a guard of honour, of seven men, should in like
manner be allowed to retain their arms ; the Emperor of Russia
having appointed such a guard for his ambassador, without
which he was not to appear-
To the first condition a ready consent wtis given, but the
second was the source of much difficulty. The interpreters
earnestly entreated the ambassador to forego this condition, as it
was absolutely contrary to the laws of their country : not even
the first princes of the land were permitted to appear anywhere
with exposed fire-arms ; they must always be shut up in a case.
The Japanese offered him the largest guard of honour after
their own manner; but they assured him that the people would
be very much astonished to see foreigners in their country with
arms in their imnds ; that such a thing was entirely unheard of,
and that it was request the court could not possibly aeceive.
As, however, notwithstanding these representations, the ambas-
sador adhered to his demand, no answer could then be given :
farther orders must first be received : most probably a courier
must be sent to Jedo for instr<uctions.

The original of the permission granted to Lieutenant Lax-
jnann, is required in the name of the governor. Granted.

The letter from the Emperor of Russia to the Emperor of
.Japan is requested, and the ambassador is assured that it is
impossible the ship can be admitted into the harbour of Nan-
gasaki till the governor is perfectly instructed in the contents

aaa

STAY AT JAPAN.

of that letter. The ambassador, upon this request, gave a copy
of the letter to the Banjos and interpreters to read, that they
might make tiiemselvcs thoroughly acquainted with the con-
tents, and observed, that his sovereign had strictly enjoined
him to give the original into the emperor's own hands, and the
copy to the governor of Nangasaki.

The Great Men examined the letter attentively : it was written
in the Russian, the Japanese, and the Mandschurian languages;
but they soon assured the ambassador that they could not under-
stand a word of it, since the hand-writhig was very bad, and the
language only that in vulgar use ; that the governor himself must
have it, to make himself accurately acquainted with the contents,
and to obtain a complete knowledge of the views of the embassy.
Baron Von Resanoff then renewed his request to be admitted
by the governor to a speedy audience, assuring the Great ^fen
that he would then lully exp'ain the contents of the paper, and
the views with which 1 e had been sent by his master on the
cmbasr.y. As to the ver particular anxiety expressed with
regard to the contents of the lett. , he could only say that it
stated bricly the great de"I»3 entertained by the Imperial So-
vereign of all the Russias to enter into a strict union of friend-
shir, iud intercourse of trade vith th;' Emperor of J:>pan. The
ambassador was then asked what were to be the conditions of
thi^ alliance: to which he replied, that he was the efficient
representative of his sovereign, endowed \, ith full powers to
arrange the conditions accordiri^ to circumstance.^, and so as to
establish a firm and lasting friendship between the two coun-
tries. This seemed to make a strovig impression upon the
visitors.

..m

STAY AT JAPAN. Z3i

The request to have a more secure anchoring place allotted
for the vessel was accompanied with the assurance that if the
Japnese government had any distrust of the views and pur-
poses with which the embassy was sent, they v/ere very ready
to depart again immediately. They must only in that case
request, as an act of friendship, to have a place allotted where
the ship, which had been exceedingly damaged by the late
storm, could be repaired, so as to put to sea again with safety.
On this it was agreed that the vessel should be allowed to
anchor west of the Papen mountain, as soon as the powder and
arms were given up : they were accordingly surrendered at that
moment, as there were a great number of small boats about
ready to take charge of them.

As it was now dark, the state officers, during the time that
tlie powder was removed, went on board their own vessel to cat
their supper, giving orders that we should be towed to our
station by a proper number of boats. The niaiiiitr in which
this was performed excited ovu- utmost astonishment. Sixty
barks were divided into five rows, and each was tied to the
other with strong cords: thus was the vessel towcil along with
the utmost order and regulaiity, and in two hours carried to its
new station.

Permission was on this day given to the chief of the Dutch
factory, JNlynheer Doeff, and to the two Dutcli captains, Mus-
<juetier and Bellmai, with aDiilch traveller, Baron Von Pabst.
to conie a'ul visit us. They ottered us their services, as they
understood German, French, and Knglish, ^nd we could only

tSi

STAY AT JAPAN.

speak broken Dutch, in any matters of business during our
stay, in which they could be useful to us.

As Mynheer Doeff entered the cabin, lie was immediately
turning to the ambassador to pay him the proper salutation ;
but the interpreters took him politely by the arm, turned him
aside gently, and said that he must first make a compliment to
the Great Men. This was done in a very demeaning manner,
according to our ideas, as he stood for some time before them
with his head bent downwards, and his arms hanging perpen-
dicularly by his sides, not daring on any account to raise
his head. As, however, he thought, after awhile, he had kept
it in this position long enough, he turned it half round on
one side, and asked the interpreter, Kan ik wederom opstaan ?
May I raise it up again ? A like compliment must also be paid
to the secretary and the Banjos ; and then he was permitted to
pay his respects to the ambassador.

Towards eleven o'clock, the treasurer and secretary took
their leave; but before their departure the Dutchmen were
again required to pay a compliment to the Great Men. Baron
Pabst, who before did not seem to think this attitude of sub-
mission altogether consistent with the Dutch character, wanted
to have stolen unseen out of the cabin, and escaped the com-
pliment; but the vigilant interpreters called after him : " Sir!
Mynheer Pabst! you cannot go till you have made the Great
Men a compliment." lie was therefore obliged to return, and
submit to the humiliating custom. This was the only oppor-
tunity we ever had of enjoying the society of these cultivated

■■t»V?*-

^^ ■

^ ■

STAY AT JAPAN. ' 2S3

Dutchmen, though we had sufficient reason afterwards to be
assured that they were very excellent men : they were never, on
any future occasion, permitted to visit us About one o'clock
they left us, in company with the Baiyos. *^ ' Hi nut-mt

On the tenth, in the morning, we were at anchor at a little
distance to the west of the Papen mountain. The country
before us was extremely beautiful : the hills were cultivated up
to their very summits : fertile fields in the form of terraces
ornamented the entire declivity, and they were brv.kon by spots
of pasture, intermingled with little woods or groves. Many
villages and single houses added to the vfc ;iety of the scene, and
the activity of the industrious husbandmen gave it great life and
animation. On the nearest shce we observed several walls
•thrown up, which, with the hou'^t'S and gardens within them,
were decorated with flags of various colours: these we were
informed were batteries or fortresses. We had now thirty-three
guardships, or boats, about us: three of them had orders to
keep close to us, and be ready to receive our commands in case
we wanted provisions, interpreters, or any thing else necessary
to our comfort. ■ -'f.u-m;MK'\- .lu. - \ ^ 'i r-r-i A-i' , ■ , ■

Towards five in the evening we again observed the Japanese
flotilla ; that is, a large boat ornamented with garlands, towed
towards us to the beat of the drum, and measured cry of the
rowers. In it was a Banjos, with his secretary and some inter-
preters. The train, upon the whole, did not consist of as many
persons as usual, i . .

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iJl ' STAT <AT JAPi«f .

The principal purpose of their visit -was to inquire a^atn
(Concerning the icontents of tlie paper addressed to the coiu;t of
Japan ; and, fiince the day before the fambasfiador had said that
he must deliver the cqpy Ihimself into the hands of the Go-
vernor of Nangasaki, the interpreters now requested that he
•would make them acquainted, with it-word for word, as a courier
"was about to be dispatclied to Jedo with tlie rintelligence of our
-arrival. Baron VonResanofF then gave the copy to the Banjos,
that he might read it ; but he said, as the Great Men had «aid
•the day before, that the writing was extremely bad, and the
language for the most part entirely unintelligible.

The interpreters then desired to be made acquainted with
the proper sense of the principal topics contained in it, that
all misunderstanding or ambiguity might be avoided; and as
each period was read to them, they repeated it three .or four
times over before they wrote it down, that they might give the
iwords with as much accuracy as possible. It imported, *• That
the Baron Von ResanofFwas sent by the most puissant Emperor
of all the Russias as his representative to the Emperor of Japan,
to thank him for the permission given to send a Russian ship to
Nangasaki, and at the same time to propose a lasting union of
friendship and good-will between the two countries ; that the
Russian Emperor, for the benefit of his subjects, particularly of
those in the neighbourhood of Japan, that is, the inhabitants of
his possessions on the western coast of North America, those of
Kamschatka, and of the Aleutian and Kurile islands, wished to
establisli an intercourse of trade with the Japanese, which he
trusted would also be of advantage to the latter, by giving them
the means of procuring objects of utility from his extensive

STAT AT MPAN. ^n

dominions; be had for this purpose given orders> that mewaiyr
part of these dominions, and at all times-, the Japanese should
be received in the most friendly manner. That four Japanese^
who had been wrecked upon the Russian territories, and
wished to return back to their native land, were now restoned ;
that the Emperor of Russia returns thanks to the Emperor, of
Japau) for the politeness shewn to Lieutienant Laxmann, ia
1^792, and sends* him some presents, whioh^ though not of any,
great value, yet, a» being objects of Russian manufactures, and
specimens of Russian industry, will furnish the means of judging:
of the situation of the arts in Russia, and what objects may bft
useful and agreeable to the Japanese." '

*-/.j 'ilJ i.*^'.i*li

The principal of these presents- were a very curious chick,
in the form of an elephant, in the oriental, taste, ornamented:
with precious stones, and a great deal of costly workmanship ;
two very large looking-glasses, each plate being fifteen feet
long, and six broad, with a number of smaller glasses ; a very
expensive and nicely-selected black fox-skin cloak, and an
ermine cloak; vases of fossil ivory, made at Archangel;
beautiful muskets, pistols, and sabres ; a number of articles in
steel, manufactured at Tula; superb glass lustres and vases;
table services of fine glass and porcelain ; tapestries, and other
cai*petings ; the portrait of the Russian Emperor, by Madame
Le Brun ; marble vases, damasks, velvets, and other silk good»
of different kinds; fine furs, printed cottons, and cloths;
gold and silver watches ; a complete electrical machine * ; a

* This was the object which more than any other attracted the altcntion, and excited
the a<ituniKhmcnt of the Japaueie. Very rarely did a Banjos, or any other Great Mttn^
come to visit ut, without desiring^to feel the effect of the electricity, of to sc&soac •>-
pcriments.

H H S!

'9tt

33«

STAY AT JAPAN.

very fine microscope ; galvanic plates ; with many other objects,
valued upon the whole at about three hundred thousand

rOUDieS« - r» i," . ..•:jB/t,-jji IT ,<',!<!.' "L'jj-t »> I- : rvjf)rjirrm*5^»

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After the letter had been read, an opportunity was taken to
complain of the conduct and behaviour of the Japanese we
bad brought with us, who, since we had been at anchor in the
bay, had refused all service. They were immediately sum-
moned before the Banjos, who reproved them very severely,
representing to them the extreme ingratitude of their conduct,
since they had been so many years fed and supported in Russia,
had received kindnesses in every possible way, and at last
had been brought back to their native shores at so great an
expence; that in behaving as they did they brought shame
upon the whole country.

"'l-'Huiti-''

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When the principal business was over, and the commission
on the part of the governor was fully executed, as the Great Men
had shewn much politeness and courtesy in their behaviour,
and in the manner they had preferred their request, the am-
bassador, not to be behind-hand with them in good manners,
voluntarily gave them the copy of the letter to the Emperor of
Japan, which the day before he had so positively refused,
that they might carry it to the governor to read. This ap-
peared to give inexpressible pleasure : the utmost satisfaction
was visible in the features of every one, and what before was
ceremony, seemed now to be converted into the confidence
of friendship.

The interpreters next made many inquiries concerning the

STAY AT JAPAN.

«S7

various objects of which the trade proposed iras to consist:
these were all written down in a little pocket-book. Whether
they were asked from mere curiosity, or in consequence of a
commission from the government, did not appear. Among
other inquiries made were the following. What productions
Russia could and would bring to Japan as objects of trade ?
Whether Russia could furnish sugar, rye, skins, medicines, and
many other articles? How many ships she could and would send
.annually to Japan ? whether four, five, or even more ? Whence
the ships would come, whether from Kamschatka or from
Europe ? How long the ships would be in coming ? What was the
best time of year for going from Japan to Kamschatka ? All these
questions were on our side answered only ia general terms.
The ambassador said that it was impossible to enter into such
a variety of matters all at once ; that they must be the sub-
ject of subsequent conversations. With this reply they ap-
peared satisfied, and changing the conversation, began to talk
upon indifferent subjects.

Among other topics introduced, they seemed particularly
anxious to understand the relative geographical situations of
Kamschatka and Japan. That Russia had possessions in America
appeared to them very extraordinary. They begged to look
over some of our maps, and evinced considerable knowledge in
geography. A general map of the world was produced, when
the Opperbanjos with his finger marked out the way we had
come as we ourselves described it : he was very inquisitive to
know why we had coasted round the eastern side of their
island, and had not come to Nangasaki through the i3ea of
Corea. i^i.a^'' -7 ■: v^^^v 'w; ^ ;

.•-S'it*; :ij)iJW '.

is-'i

<ia^i

tJW.V*' *T"

•|g§, STAY AT JAPAN.

The aitnbassador. on- this took occasion to produce a little
pocket globe, by Adams of London, which occasioned uncommon
pleasure among our visitors. Th^t the earth was round they
knew very well; but to see it represented in this mannev
Seemed wholly new to them. The Banjos was short-sighted,
and used very bad spectacles : an excellent English pair were
offered him, but he /declined accepting them, since he must
iirst, he said, ask permission of the governor ; without that, no
one could accept even the most trifling present. In the mean
time he begged the ambassador to lay the spectacles by till the
governor's pleasure upon the subject could be ascertained*

(>■.-<

Some of the interpreters, though not officially employed for
the purpose, were very desirous of learning the Russian lan*-
guage : the first thing they inquired was, how they were to ask
in Russian, What do jfou call this? On being informed, they
inquired the names of various objects, desired to know tlie
numerals, the Russian for good and bad, for good-morning, and
farewelly and immediately began to make use of the informa-
tion they had obtained. The inquisitiveness, the readiness at
learning, and the memory of these people, surprised usexGeedH
ingly. At length the Banjos told us that the next day waa
a great festival '(a kermes, as the Dutch call it), and on that
account nobody could come to us: on the following day, how»
ever, the Governor of Nangasaki would hope to have received
bis full instructions, as he expected the return of the messenger
from Jedo, but till then he must entreat that we would be
contwt to remain at anchor where we then were : all farther
deliberations and arrangements for the satisfaction of our wishes
must be deferred to that time. If, however, we would imme*

STAY AT JArAN.

1t39

diately unpack and look over the presents that might happen
i;o be damaged, they could without del^ty bring a large boai
alongside the ship to receive them. To this pKopofiM no
Answer was made. Towards eight o'clock in th^ evening 'the
Sanjos said, that as they had disturbed us, and robbed ru«
of our rest for several evenings, they would not then incommode
us any longer. They accordingly returned to their boat, and
were towed back with the usual ceremonies.

•^^v The eleventh of October was, as they had informed us, a
great festival, so that we were left entirely to ourselves the
.whole day. We thought there were more watch-boats about u9
.than usual. We made our remarks to each other upon the
nation with whom we were endeavouring to form new con*
uexions, upon their excessive closeness, upon the circum-
spection with which every step was taken : it seemed as i£
the least error would cost the life even of the persons highest
in rank. Every thought, every question, every word, was
weighed in the nicest manner, and appeared to liave some
particular aim in view.

At daybreak on the twelfth, five Chinese junks, which
4iad been at anchor on the other side of the Fapen mountain,
put to sea: they were towed out by Japanese boats nearly
to the place where we lay. The cries of the numerous crews,
their helplessness, the time and trouble it cost them to make
very little way, and to spread out a sail only of matting, as
well as the heavy wretched manner in which the vessels were
constructed, gave us a convincing proof how much the Chi^
nese are behind-hand with ^ great many other nations in the

240

STAY AT JAPAN.

art of ship-building. These vessels can only sail before the
wind, and they were obliged therefore twice, upon trifling
changes, which to an European would have been nothing, to
put back again into the harbour, till at length, by means of a
continued north-east wind, they succeeded in getting out to
sea.

About eleven o'clock this day we saw the boat of a Great
Man coining towards us with flags flying and drums beating,
and towed along by a great number of other boats. The gover-
nor had sent two secretaries of state, who, with many excuses^
brought back the copy of the letter which, two days before,
had been received with so much pleasure, begging to have a
true and literal translation of it in the Dutch language. They
observed, that the letters and words were indeed Japanese, but
that it was impossible to understand the meaning*, nor could
the least connexion be made out by any means whatever. To
save ourselves any farther trouble and vexation about thia
matter, we explained every sentence as well as we could ; but,
unfortunately, not one among our whole party could properly
be said to understand the Dutch language. The great readi-
ness of comprehension, which I have already mentioned that
we had remarked among the interpreters, was now of the utmost
assistance to us. .

' * This letter had been translated from the Russian language into the Japanew, by
one of the people of Japan already mentioned, who was living at Irkutsk. The tran.
slator, howeTcr, it must be confessed, had been formerly only a fisherman, from wboB
no great correctness of style was to be expected.

^ .

STAY AT JAPAJPn^ Agk

f When the translation was completed, it wag evident the
Japanese had acquired a different idea of the views with which
our embassy was sent. For instance, in the Japanese transla-
tion of the letter, the ambassador was designated as a chamber-
lain, --.nd his office was represented as being similar to that of
a little country prince ; but when they learnt the real rank
and dignity of his person, they examined very attentively tl»e
key of his office^ and the ribband of bis order ; and asked with
great naivete whether the Emperor of Russia could confer
upon foreign monarchs, for example, upon the Emperor of
Japan, or the Governor of Nangasaki, such an order. But
though they had now a so much higher idea of the rank of our
ambassador, they expressed great surprise that the Emperor of
Russia should have written the letter himself, a thing never
done by the Emperor of Japan. Even the name of the reign-
ing emperor, they said, was in their country kept a profound
^ecrdt ; the subjects never knew, till his death, how the person
whp -had reigned over them was called.

The Japanese whom we had brought with us were then pre-
sented to the Great Man, dressed in their silk clothes of Rus-
sian manufacture ; and each shewed the silver watdi and the
twenty ducats with which he had been presented by the Rus-
sian monarch. The interpreters begged us to instruct them in
the Russian language, and offered to instruct us without any
expense in the Japanese. We found the people of distinction
here uniformly polite and courteous in their manners: but
for their language and costume, we might have supposed
ourselves among the most polished Europeans, ij -

.'ji, ?j

'V.TV

I I

24S STAY AT JAPAN.

About five o'clock in the evening all business was concluded*
The next day, the thirteenth, they told us would be again a
festival or kermes, therefore nobody would visit us ; but the
following morning we might depend upon their bringing
answers to several of our questions. The Chinese junks, on
account of contrary winds, returned into harbour again this
afternoon. We were all the next day surrounded by a vast
number of boats; and we observed, that when the guard was
relieved, the crown sailors changed their clothes, and appeared
in their usual dresses, so that they evidently wore their uni-
forms only when they were in actual service.

'-' On the fourteenth, a strong north wind arose, which
increased by degrees very much. The little open boats were
constrained to quit their stations about our ship, and take
shelter behind the Papen mountain. From the great cries and
noise made by the boatmen, they seemed to have thought their
lives in imminent danger. Many trading vessels ran into the
harbour at this moment, perhaps also to seek shelter. On
account of this wind, we did not receive any fresh provisions
the whole day : we were obliged to be contented with our salted
ship meat.

In the morning of the fifteenth a supply was brought us,
with many excuses that they had not been able to come
the preceding day. It consisted of sweet potatoes, turnips,
radishes, pork, fish, bread, and rice. Ab<mt eleven o'clock,
the weather being calm, the Banjos, with his train, arrived.
The ambassador, wearied with so many ceremonials, and the
perpetual repetition of the same questions, received the Great

STAY AT JAPAN. %iS

Man now somewhat coldly, and said he was not very well.
The Banjos brought information of the arrival of a new
governor at Nangasaki, who, together with the old, promised
that the vessel should soon be admitted , into the harbour,
and that in future we should never fail of having a supply
of provisions : they both assured the ambassador of their high
esteem and friendship, and entreated him to have patience
yet for a short time. If he had been an insignificant personage,
like Lieutenant Laxmann, he would have been in the harbour
long ago; but for so Gnat a Man they must wait the com-
mands of the court as to the manner in which he was to be
received, and make the necessary preparations, that every
thing might be suitable to his rank and dignity. The ambas-
sador pressed earnestly, partly on account of his own indispo-
sition, partly for the sake of repairing the ship, to have a safer
anchorage allotted as soon as possible, and the interpreter pro-
mised to bring an answer to this request the next morning.

In the general conversation that ensued, thfe interpreters
said that both the governors hail a just idea of the greatness
and dignity of the Imperial Russian representative, and on that
account had given orders to all the princes of the country, as
well as to the inhabitants of Nangasaki and the neighbour-
hood, not only to make known the arrival of so distinguished a
personage froi^P^ussia, but had also strictly commanded that
this Great Man and all Russians should be received with the
utmost respect and esteem, and that every occasion of giving
them displeasure should be carefully avoided. All the princes
and people of distinction of the country, they said, had been

summoned to Nangasaki, to be present at the reception of the

I I 3

f44 STAY AT JAPAN.

ambassador, and the town itself was to be cleaned for the occa-
sion*. At the sainetiine they gave us to understand that the
boats by which our ship was always surrounded were intended
as a guard of honour. Towards noon they left us, repeating
their promise that an answer should be brought the next day
respecting the change of anchorage.

It was now very fine clear weather, and an immense number
of pleasure boats, without flags, were rowing about, most of
them filled with women, who appeared, as we thought, to be
of rank: they seemed attracted by curiosity to come and exa-
mine our sliip. They were obliged, however, to keep without
the line of our guard of honour. The Chinese junks, which
had endeavoured this day once more to put to sea, did not suc-
ceed any better than before, and returned again into the harbour.
Very unexpectedly, the half-feigned indisposition of the am-
bassador produced a most happy effect ; for this evening, abou
nine o'clock, came the interjjreters with the joyful intelligence
from both the governors, that the next morning early we should
have a better anchoring-place. They M'ere sent that evening,
they said, with the information, that the ambassador's mind
might be at ease upon the subject ; and they were moreover
commissioned to say, that both the governors were extremely

concerned at the ambassador's indisposition.

-*•

^v:

On the sixteenth, about eight o'clock in the morning, we
saw coming towards us not leiss than a hundred of the little

* I do not know what was meant by this, since the streets, not only of this town,
'kut of all the towns io the island, are always kept remarkably clean.

IE--

STAY At JAPAir.

fl4ft

towing boats, all with the same flags. They stopped by one
or other of our guard boats, there to wait further orders. At
ten o'clock came some Banjos with the usual ceremonies, who
lamented very much, in the name of the two governors, the
ambassador's indisposition, and offered him every possible ser-
vice, even the attendance of the Japanese physicians, if that
would be agreeable to him *. At the same time they informed
us that the ship wotild be that day removed to a safer anchor-
age on the eastern side of the Papen mountain ; and as an
excuse for not carrying it into the inner harbour, which the
ambassador had earnestly requested, they said that it would be
by no means shewing proper respect to an Imperial Russian
ship of war, with a person of so much distinction on board,
that it should be anchored among trading vessels ; that the
Dutch ships would, however, leave the harbour very soon, and
our ship should then be anchored alone where they were now

As we could not perfectly enter into this reasoning, as it indeed
seemed only laughable to us, one of the interpreters added, that
some of the great princes of the country, who had been sum-
moned to meet the ambassador, were not yet arrived. He
was going to have proceeded farther, when a very remark-
able sign being given by one of the others, he stopped short.
It may here be mentioned by the way, that at almost every
visit made us, new people came. Great Men as well as inter-
preters. This is most probably to be ascribed to the suspi-

* This circumstanc*, as will be explained in the sequel, is well worthy of remark.

246 STAY AT JAPAN.

cious nature of the government, which thinks it is by this
means more secure, tliat no secret intelligence shall be carried
on. Every new officer and interpreter is a sort of check upon
the former, and by comparing the answers, the fidelity of each
reporter is ascertained with the greater certainty. a ;. » •

About twelve o'clock the anchor was weighed, and we were
towed to the other side of the Papen mountain : here, for the
first time, we saw the town of Nangasaki at the distance of
some miles. The Banjos remained on board during this change
of place. Geography appeared particularly to attract their
attention: they were very desirous, as had been all our
former visitors, of obtaining all possiole information respecting
the situation, extent of territory, and population of the great
Russian empire ; they followed our route upon the maps, and
inquired very minutely into the distances from one plac6 to
another. They begged to see the little pocket globe, which
had been so much talked of in all companies at Nangasaki, and
made a great many inquiries respecting the arts and manufac-
tures in Russia, specimens of which were shewn them. They
admired the astronomical instruments: and, notwithstandins;
that they had no idea of the use of them, from curiosity would
see the sun. I the rather mention this circumstance, in order
to correct an erroneous idea which prevails very generally, that
the Japanese, from a religious prejudice, will not look either
at the sun or the stars.

Having come to an anchor in our new situation about one
o'clock, the Banjos took their leave. An incredible number of

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fflAT AT JAPAN.

917

bofttfl of all sizes, full of company of both sexes, but |>articu-
larly of the £iiir sex, came out from the town in the afternoon
to satisfy their curiosity with a sight of the great Russian ship,
but none were allowed to come within the line of our guard of
honour. On the declivity of a neighbouring hill we saw a house
surrounded with palisades, and with a screen before it, which
we were told was an imperial guard-house. At night this guard-
liouse, with the boats around us, were lighted with a great
number of lanterns,, which made a very briUiant illumination.

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9IS

OTAkT AT JAPAN.

CHAPTER XI.

Road behind the Papeti Mountain. — Occurrences therefrom the Seventeenth
. of October till the Ninth of November. •—Anchoring-Plaoe hefort the
Jhkperial Gudrd'Hotue^ ai^ N'egovicttiom there.— Beparturt from the
Anchoring-Place, and Entrance into Megasaki.

From the seventeenth to the twenty-first nothing particular
occurred. Parties of pleasure came every day from the town
to contemplate the Russian ship. The boat of the Prince of
Fisi was distinguished above all the others for its superior
splendor. As an indication that he was himself on board, it was
decorated with a variety of flags, staves, bows and arrows,
muskets, and other insignia of honour : the muskets were all
in ornamented cases. A large drum, with a sound as if muffled,
and the measured cry of the rowers, were to be heard at a
considerable distance.

■*/

The number of people thus attracted to stare at us were
no less entertaining to us than we were to them. Some-
times we saw a boat filled with children, from ten to
fourteen years old, so that it seemed as if a whole school had
been brought out to be treated with a sight of the Russians.
In others were women, who, to judge by the richness
of their clothing, must have been of high rank.- There were

STAY AT ^APAN. £49

mothers with infants at the breast, and young girls with stringed
instruments : in some of the boats the people had telescopes,
which were handed from one to the other ; in short, old and
young, married and unmarried, all came to gratify their curio-
sity. Among the women, the married were easily to be distin-
guished from the unmarried by the black front teeth, which,
from their exceeding delight, and laughing so frequently, were
often shewn to our great disgust. As long as a girl remain*
unmarried the teeth are not blacked.

'^^

The neighbouring country, too, was become exceedingly
animated. Numbers of parties were made from the town to the
shore near the part where we lay, and a little temple at the foot
of a hill close by was the perpetual resort of company. It was
no less amusing to observe these land parties than those on
the water. The company would sit in groups to eat rice or
other provisions which they had brought with them, then
visit the temple, or walk about, and this for the greater part
of the day. The provisions were commonly brought in beau-
tiful little japanned boxes, and were eaten with a couple of
little sticks instead of forks.

|ss
Ire

On the twenty-first the thermometer was as low as !()•; and
accustomed as we had been for some time to a much greater
degree of heat, we found this very cold. Although the weather
was fine and clear, few boats were to be seen. Towards
the afternoon an interpreter came to the ship, but as he had no
Banjos with him, he did not dare to venture on board. In
order, therefore, to discharge his commission, he begged that

STAY AT JAPAN.

somebody from us would come into his boat. He then drew
a paper from his bosom, containing tlie following instructions
and propositions on the part of the governor.

First. As the Dutch vessels would leave their anchoring-
place the next day, and as it was an ancient custom that all
Dutch ships at their departure should salute the imperial Japa-
nese fortress, the governor thought it proper we should be
informed of it, that we might understand the reason of so many
cannon being fired.

Secondly. We were requested not to send any boat or bark
either to the Dutch ships or to the neighbouring uninhabited
isl^md. A like request was made to the Dutch.

■■■'»■''''
Thirdly. All provisions that we wished to have should he
Scsnt us free of cost. It was not allowable for any one to sell
things fov money, and the governor therefore had to beg pardon
of the ambassador, that the Japanese tobacco-pipes, which he
had requested some days before, had not been sent to him.
According to his instructions from the court, he could not per-
mit any stranger to purchase the most trifling article ; he must,
therefore, entreat our patience till he received his farther in*
structiona from Jedo.

Our patience, however, us it appeared from the interpreter,
would not in this instance be very slightly taxed, since lie re-
ported that the courier might very possibly not return for five-
a«id-twenty or thirty days. The ambassador availed himself of

STAY AT JAPAN.

S51

the interpreter to send a message to the governor, requesting
that he might be permitted to dispatch letters to his own
country by the Dutch ships that were about to sail.

These Dutch ships quitted Desima the same day, and came
to anchor nearer to us. They each saluted the imperial Japa-
nese fortress with a hundred and fifty guns, fired at unequal in-
tervals, but not a single gun was returned by the fortress. This
led us to presume that the Japanese really have no cannon. The
fine weather, and perhaps also the movement of the Dutch
ships, again brought out parties to the amount of some thou-
sands of persons as we judged, and the neighbouring temple
was crowded, particularly by handsome women. In the dark-
ness of the night, the illumination of the harbour, and the
guard-house upon the shore, was really a very beautiful sight.
I counted within the circle more than four hundred lanterns.

On the twenty- third the ambassador sent a message to the
governor, requesting to speak with a Banjos. Accordingly the
next day towards noon two came, accompanied by two inter-
preters, to hear what he wished to say. The ambassador then
told them, that he was very anxious to have an interview with
the commanders of the Dutch ships ; at least, he begged* that
Captain Krusensteru might be permitted to visit them before
their departure, as he held it his duty towards his own sove-
reign not to omit such an opportunity of informing him that
the vessel was happily arrived at Japan.

In the second place, the ambassador said, he could nofc
perceive, without some displeasure, that the Dutch ships, whicb

K K 2

S52

STAT AT JAPAN.

were only trading vessels, vrere allowed to fire a gun every
morning and evening, and that this privilege was denied to a
Russian ship of war, under the pretence that it was contrary to
the laws of Japan. That this was an offence to the Russian flag,
and he therefore demanded the same privilege allowed to the
. Dutch.

With regard to what had been said of supplying our ship
with provisions free of expense, he had many acknowledgments
to make for such an instance of liberality. He did not, how-
ever, wish this to be done, and the rather, as our supply of
provisions had been brought very irregularly ; the day before^
for example, we had not received any supply at all. He would,
therefore, consider it as an act of friendship to be permitted
to purchase provisions, and to order them at regular stated
periods. • , , ' •

He said, moreover, that he was exceedingly hurt at find-
ing himself for a week past totally neglected ; he had not
experienced the friendship which his Imperial Russian Ma-
jesty, whose representative he was, had a right to expect from
the Japanese ; and neither himself, nor any otlier Russian,
would have come to Japan, if they had expected such treat-
ment. After having overcome great toils and dangers to arrive
there, he was now not received as a friend, but rather de-
tained as a criminal and state prisoner. During fourteen
months that he had been at sea, he had led a kind of life
to which he was wholly unaccustomed, and his health had suf-
fered by it very much ; he must, therefore, earnestly entreat
that himself, and some of his officers, might be permitted occa-

STAY AT JAPAN. 353

sionally to go on shore, though it were only on an uninhabited
island near, to walk about and take the exercise essential for
his recovery : this his physician had said was absolutely neces'
sary. He also again repeated the request that some house on
shore might be allotted him, where he could inipack and put
in order the presents destined for the Emperor of Japan, and
that a convenient place might be allotted for repairing the da-
mages done to the ship in the violent storm we had experienced.

To this lat<"er clause the interpreter answered, that he was
commissioned by both the governors to say, that the ambas-
sador must surely think they had no ears. His wishes to live
on shore, to unpack the presents, and to repair the ship, were
sufficiently known to them, but they were themselves in the
greatest embarrassment, and could not do any thing contrary to
the established laws. They must therefore once more entreat
him to have patience till the answer from Jedo could arrive,
when they hoped for the most ample instructions upon every
point that had been brought into discussion.

All these representations were faithfully written down by
the interpreters, and the interview concluded with the ambas-
sador expressing a wish to be visited from time to time by
some of the Japanese, if it was only for the pleasure it aflbrded
him to hear of the governor's health. The interpreters seemed
to feel that the ambassador had not expressed so much dis-
pleasure without just cause, and endeavoured to excuse all by
urging the singular constitutions of their country, and the
unchangeable nature of their laws. On being questioned far-
ther as to the time when the answer might be expected from
Jedo, they frankly owned that the couriers had been dispatched

WAY AT JAPAN.

on the eleventh and the thirteenth, and that it must be at least
from twenty-seven to thirty days before the answer could be
received. The length of time astonished us exceedingly, and
made us so much the more urgent to have permission some-
times to go on shore in the neighbourhood of our anchoring-
place.

Among other things, the interpreters now asked when the
ambassador would give up the Japanese he had brought from
Russia } To this he replied, that at the first audience granted
him he should deliver them up with his own hands to the
governor, conformably to the commission he had received.
With regard to the letters the ambassador wished to send
to Europe, they begged to know the size and number of
them.

On the same day in the afternoon we observed a very large,
high, and handsome boat, with thirty-six or thirty-eight rowers,
and towed by a great number of boats, coming towards our ship.
It had only one very deep red flag, with a round white pattern in
the middle, and was besides decorated with some staves of
honour. The rowers were all in garments of dark blue, with a
blue and white check over the breast and back. Our guard-
ships said that it was the boat of Prince Tschingodsi, nephew
to the Emperor of Japan, with his Highness himself on board:
it was accompanied by several other boats : the measured cry of
the rowers was to be heard at a very great distance : the ap-
pearance of the whole together was really grand and com-
manding.

About eight o'clock in the evening came a supply of pro-

STAY AT JARAN. f&9

lusions, but not till we had «ent after them to Nangasaki,
desiring at the (uime time to speak with an interpreter. Many-
excuses were now made that the things had , not been sent
earlier in the day ; but the people said that Prince Tschingodsi
had arrived in the morning, and it was necessary to prepare for
his risception : this had put a stop to all other business.

On the twenty-sixth, about two o'clock, the interpretera
came, accompanied by two officers, who brought the answers
to some of the ponits which had been mentioned the day
before. To that about sending letters to Europe by the Dutch
ships, the answer was, that although it was entirely contrary to
the laws of Japan to admit of any interchange of letters
between foreign nations coming into the harbour, and conse-
quently that no Chinese had ever been allowed to send letters
by Dutch vessels going from thence to China ; nor had any
Dutch been permitted to send letters by vessels from China,
going to Europe ; yet the governor, out of particular respect
for the Russian ambassador, would permit him to send two
unsealed letters by the Dutch ships. This proposal was not
very well received by the ambassador, and he represented in
strong terms the impropriety of sending his Emperor un-
sealed dispatches. It was, therefore, at length agreed that the
letters were to be submitted to the inspection of the Governqgr
uf Nangasaki, who, after he had read them, sluiuld send them
back by a Banjos, when they might be sealed by the ambas-
sador in his presence, and then returned to the go<vernor, to be
by him remitted to the Dutch officers. If these letters were
prepared by the morrow, they might be submitted immediately
to the governor, who would return them the same jday.

t36

STAY AT JAPAN.

As to the request for permission to go on shore, the answer
was, that it was strictly forbidden to any «tranger to land
without a special permission from the Emperor: the illness,
however, of the ambassador should make an exception to this
rule ; and the governor, out of particular respect and esteem for
him, would appoint a place on the nearest part of the shore,
where he might walk. With this view the interpreter indi-
cated two places which could be seen from the ship, giving the
ambassador his choice between them. The choice being made,
a delay of a few days was requested, that the place, which was
upon a large island, might be made ready, and a small house
run up for shelter to the ambassador in case of rain, and that a
pallisade might be formed of bamboo danes, to keep the populace
off from incommoding his excellency : the true reason of this
was, however, evidently to prevent the Russians going beyond
the narrow limits prescribed to them.

With respect to the delay in sending provisions, many excuses
were made, concluding with a promise that there should not in
future be any reason for complaints on this subject. We, how-
ever, afterwards learnt that the pretence of every body having
been occupied with the arrival of Prince Tschingodsi was a
mere fiction ; that his court only had arrived ; he himself was
not expected of some days. An answer to the requisition o^
being allowed to fire the morning and evening gun was promised
the next day. In the meantime we observed that this evening
the Dutch did not fire as before.

On the twenty-seventh at day-break we saw a great many
men at work at the place destined for our walk. In the after-

ITAY AT JAPAN.

noon the interpreters came for the letters, when they inquired
very minutely into the contents, writing down the translation ai
they were informed of them. They promised at the same time to
bring them back the next morning, that the ambassador might
seal them in the presence of the Banjos •. We were also informed
tliat the place where we were to walk would be ready for us
on the morrow, and we should have perraissioo to go on
shore. . . '•( '■' ■ ■:;*■■ •,;■"-.■; * ." l ri^a^ > *■ ^f-^i ■

•

On the following day, in the afternoon, came two Banjot
with some interpreters, and brought back the ambassador's letter
to be sealed. It was inclosed in a little box made expressly for
the purpose, extremely neat, bound round with a silk ribband,
and fastened with a clasp. A little strip of paper over the
clasp marked the place where the seal was to be affixed, and
the clasp could not be opened without tearing it. The letter
was sealed in presence of the Banjos, and consigned again to
him to be forwarded to the Dutch Captains. The Great Man
said, before he departed, that our walk would be ready that
evening or early the next morning, and assured us that the per-
mission to go on shore was a deviation from the common rule,
granted solely out of respect and esteem for the ambassador,
because the indifferent state of his health required it.

• A single letter only wai therefore teat by hi from NangMtki to Europe, and that
with much difficulty, and before we had set our feet on Japanese ground. A year after,
howcfcr, letters dated from Japan, purporting to be from us, and giving an account of
-the manners and customs of the Japanese, appeared in several German publications. But
these fictions, imposed upon the public as originals, were compilations from Charlefoix,
Thunbcrg, and Kaempfcr. This was carrying the licenlia pottka somewhat too far.

L X.

STAY AT JAPAN.

We had remarked people constantly at work upon the place
for the last two days, nay even all night, and saw, to our great
astonishment, early this morning, a small wooden house run
up, which had been entirely completed in the night. The
officers were permitted to wear their swords on shore, but were
forbidden to carry a gun with them to shoot birds. This last
prohibition appeared to us very curious, since as we were
already deprived of our powder, there would have been no
particular utility in carrying a gun.

On the twenty -ninth, about four o'clock in the afternoon,
came two Banjos with the interpreters, to impart the joyful
tidings that the walk was ready for the ainbassador, and that they
were ordered to conduct him thither: for the future, they added,
he would be at liberty to go whenever he chose, only giving
notice beforehand to the officer upon guard, that he might
first examine whether the walk was clean and fit for his reception :
in fact, this notice Avas required that time might be given to
order the proper guard to the place. Another condition, clothed
in the form of a request, was, that the ambassador would never
take more than nine officers on shore with him, and that none
of the sailors should be allowed to go: also, that nobody should
think of staying on shore during the night. The Banjos
moreover brought a letter from Mynheer Doeff, the Dutch
factor, to the ambassador, acknowledging the receipt of the
dispatch for the Russian Emperor, and promising to forward it
from Batavia to Europe by the first possible opportunily.

On Uiis the anibassador with some officers descended into the
boat, to tread lor the first time on Japanese ground. Tiie

STAY AT JAPAN.

«59

shrouds were manned for the occasion by the sailors, who gave
three cheers as the boat moved off. The Opperbanjos, with
several guardships and a number of little Japanese boats,
followed us. As we drew near to the destined place, which we
reached in about ten minutes, we found it small beyond all
idea. It was a walk not more than twice the length of our ship,
inclosed with a pallisade of bamboo canes : every plant and>
blade of grass was torn away ; the soil was perfectly levelled,
and it was strewed over with sand. A small wooden summer-
house, open in front, was to serve as oyr shelter in case of rain ;
the inner room was raised about two feet, and was covered
with thin red carpeting.

According to custom, the ambassador had the Russian
standard with the double eagle carried before him, and he
sat down in the house upon a chair which had been
brought from the ship. Some of the Banjos welcomed him
in the name of the governors, and in conformity with Japanesef
politeness, made him a compliment as from them. This con-
sisted in a strip of white paper about three fingers broad, folded
up, and tied together with smaller strips of red and white
paper, from each end of which hung little bits of fish, or of
catgut. At the same time they brought a small sealed box,
containing a number of preserves and other things as refresh-
ments for the ambassador. A number of people had assembled
upon a neighbouring hill to stare at us. The Banjos soon took
their leave, repeating their request that we would not continue
there during the night; and as we should not have found any
particular pleasure from taking our repose in a little confined
ploughed field, watched on all sides, we were no way disposed
to transgress the injunction, but readily returned to the ship.

L l2

STAY AT JAPAX.

On the third, the whole day was so cloudy and rainy that
we had no visitors from the town, and nothing particular
occurred.

It was agreed, that when we wished to go on shore a red flag
should be hung oat as a signal to the commanding officer
on guard. On this day, upon the signal being given, some
officers, among whom I made one, went on shore without
the ambassador. A number of workmen were extremely busy
in building up another small house, adjoinfng to the former,
for our use in a particular way. Boys of only twelve or
thirteen years of age were working as carpenters, and were
already very expert in their business. The planes, saws, ham-
mers, and other tools used here, are in form and make very
different from our European ones, and for the most part much
superior to them. The principal object among the Japanese,
in all their constructions, is not to waste the wood. We
found the people very friendly and courteous. Dr. Horner
took the altitude of the suji with an artificial horizon, which
the byestanders observed with particular attention ; but they
remained at a respectful distance, lest they should incommode
him. After lie had done they had permission to look at the
sextant, with which they were extremely delighted. Many
of them brought us their fans*, requesting that M'e would Avrite
our names upon them: by way of acknowledgment when this

* A Japanese always carries about him a fan, with i, tobacco.pipc, wpitiiig implements)
ami paper. The latter is used instead of a pockct-handkcrchiuf ; since thev hold it Tery
indelicate, and not cleanly, to carry a linen handkerchief in their pockets, as wa do, for
luch a. purpose.

STAT AT JAPAIf;

t6t

was done, they held the fan to their foreheads, making a low
bow. Many of them gave us to understand by signs that they
wished the letters made large enough to cover the whole fan.
They told us the Japanese names of several objects that w^
wished to know ; and we in return called them by their Russian
names. * ■ ,

After a stay of some hours we returned on board, when
we heard that in the meantime some Banjos, with their inter-
preters, had been making a visit to the ship. They came
commissioned by the governor to ask why the ambassador did
not go oftener on shore^ hoping that nothing had displeased
him ; they were afraid that the people about had been trouble-
some, or something might perhaps be wanting. To this the
ambassador replied tliat he bad nothing to say against the
place, but that he should have been glad if they had left a little
grass, that he might have had some enjoyment of the beau-
ties of nature. The principal reason, however, 'why he had
not been again on shore was, that he was exceedingly fatigued
with the great length of his former walk. The interpreters
smiled, made excuses for the governor upon the place being so
confined, and immediately offered to do every thing in their
power to procure, if possible, a little more liberty for us.

Immediately after dinner came two other magistrates with
interpreters. They said that the governor promised all possible
assistance in repairing the damages our ship had sustained ; he
at the same time desired we might be hiformed that six years
before a large Dutch ship had been repaired at Kibatsch ; and
as the answer from Jedo might now be expected very soon, and

268

STAY AT JAPAN.

he had not the power of suflfering the ship to be repaired at
Nangasaki, he wished to know whether it could not be repaired
at Kibatsch. He was ready in this case to give us a number of
Japanese vessels, in which the presents, the lading, and stores,
might be lodged, and another in which the ambassador might
live during the time. Every thing might be well considered by
us, and the answer deferred to another time.

The Banjos then inquired again what was the reason that the
ambassador went on shore so seldom ? Whether he would have
liked the house better inclosed every way, instead of being open
on one side ? Whether, in short, he had any faults to find with
it, or remarks to make ? The ambassador replied, that he would
have preferred the little uninhabited Island of Nesidesima, or
Rat-Island, which was first offered us, as there was some grass
and wood upon it, if he had then known what sort of a place
Kibatsch was, which he had chosen : he should be very glad,
therefore, of the permission sometimes to visit Nesidesima. To
this the Banjos answered, that it had occasioned the governor
much difficulty to grant us the place made for us at Kibatsch :
he was forced to consult previously with the Princes Fisi and
Tschingodsi, before he could venture upon such a step. That
must be the case again, and they doubted very much whether
the request could be granted, as the trees must be cut away
there also, and the place strewed v/ith sand.

On the first of November Captain Von Krusenstern went on
shore with some of his officers, and Dr. Horner, to take the
altitude of the sun, and to examine whether the Creek at
Kibatsch would be convenient for repairing the ship. He found

STAY AT JAPAN.

269

the greatest depth to be from five to six fathom. The Japanese
did not oppose his sounding, but looked on with eager curiosity.
Since the day before, the workmen had been extremely busy in
ornamenting the summer-house: shutters had been made to the
side that was open ; they consisted of paper glued tOi>ether, and
were done with a neatness and accuracy that could scarcely
be equalled in Europe.

The interpreters came to us on the second, with the infor-
mation that the governor was afraid such numbers of the lower
people who were ill-dressed, coming about the walk out of
curiosity, was unpleasant to the ambassador ; he had therefore
given orders that nobody should in future go near it. This
order seemed even to have been extended farther, since for two
days no more pleasure-boats had come about our ship; we
were therefore deprived of the amusement we had received from
the perpetual contemplation of objects wholly new and strange
to us. As the ambassador had no inclination to go on shore
this day, the Japanese inquired whether he could not give
any orders by which the place might be made more to his
taste.

Several of our officers went this day to Kibatsch, and
found the Japanese very friendly, and appearing to treat them
with great confidence. They fully explained the manner in
which their guns are fired : this is not with a flint and steel, but
with a lighted match. They drew out their pocket-books, and
exhibited maps of the neighbouring country : they shewed theni
their medicine-chests, and many other things that they thought
might be interesting and entertaining to them.

264

STAY AT JAPAN.

On the third, the ambassador went on shore, accompanied
by a few Japanese barks, in which were only some subaltern
officers. As there was nothing new to be seen in Kibatsch, and
as it was impossible to walk much, his excellency did not stay
above half an hour, and then returned on board. No visitors
of curiosity ventured to come near the ship. Though it was
very cloudy and somewhat rainy on the fourth, I went on shore
with some of the officers. The intercourse with the Japanese was
colder than usual, and their number was small. A young man,
who alone appeared at all disposed to be sociable, was called
away : we concluded from this circumstance that orders had
been given not to keep up any confidential intercourse with us.

On the fifth, the interpreters came with the intelligence that
the Dutch ships were at length ready to sail, and that we
might take their place in the harbour as soon as they were
gone. As to repairing the ship, they said, that perhaps the
loading the presents upon several Japanese vessels would occa-
sion too much trouble and loss of time, the governor therefore
proposed a Chinese junk, on board of which the ambassador
could transfer all the presents and stores, and where he could
live himself. To this it was agreed, that as soon as the Dutch
ships wfere gone an answer should be sent ; for, as they were not
to be later than ten days before they sailed, the ambassador said
he would prefer waiting, as there was reason to hope for an
answer from Jedo by that time, when he expect 'd permission
to live on shore.

With respect to the island of Nesidesima, mentioned on a
former occasion, we received on this day a positive refusal of

STAY AT JAPAN. g($5

the request made by the ambassador to be allowed to walk
there. As we had observed for several days the manners of the
Japanese to be extremely cold towards us, and saw no more
boats come out with parties of pleasure, the ambassador alluded
to this circumstance, observing that we were deprived of
the entertainment we had received from the sight of them : this
the interpreters ascribed entirely to chance. On the sixth and
seventh nothing occurred worthy of remark.

On the eighth, early in the morning, the Dutch vessels
weighed anchor. We cheered them as they passed us, wishing
them a prosperous voyage ; they did not however answer us, and
we had afterwards an apology on this account from the chief o^
the Dutch factory. Mynheer Doeff, with the assurance that
this apparent want of attention to our civilities was to be
ascribed entirely to the strict injunctions to this effect which
the captains had received from the governor. The ships had
but just got round to the other side of the Papen mountain,
when, on account of a calm, they were obliged to drop the
anchor again.

This afternoon the interpreters brought us intelligence
that the next day, about noon, a proper number of towing-
boati would be sent to convey us to the place the Dutch had
left, and that all possible assistance would be given by the
governor in repairing our ship. On the ninth, in the afternoon,
came two Banjos, with several interpreters, to attend us to the
new anchoring-place just before the imperial guard-house. We
were accordingly drawn thither by the towing-boats, and an-
chored in fifteen fathom water, about three versts from the

M M

366

STAT AT JAPAN.

town of Nangasaki. On the next morning, for the first time,
we saw this town very plain. The Banjos, who accompanied
us, were very polite, pleasant, and sociable ; they occupied
themselves the greater part of the afternoon with examining
maps and prints, which seemed to afford them great entertain-
ment. On the tenth, preparations were at length made for
repairing the ship. It was agreed that the masts, yards, beams,
and other materials, should be carried on shore to Kibatsch, and
the governor promised that they should be placed under the
care of an extraordinary guard.

The interpreter sent to us on this day spoke more freely
than any who had come before : he considered all the strict
regulations of the Japanese goveri.n.ent as extremely ridicu-
lous, lamented that he was himself a Japanese, and wished
very much to travel and see foreign countries. He regretted
the short-sightedness of his countrymen, imputed it to the edu-
cation of the emperor and the great magistrates, and said that
the subjects must be blind when the rulers had no clear ideas,
and were not in a situation to acquire any. Men, he said, are
not born merely to eat and drink, but also to instruct and en-
lighten themselves. His philosophical dissertation was inter-
spersed with several Japanese proverbs ; as, for example,
*• The age of man is a hundred i/ears, but his fame is eternal." —
•' The life of man is short, his name is without end " He lamented
the many disagreeable circumstances to which the ambassador
had been subjected, and endeavouring to console him, likened
a man of understanding to water, saying, '• A reasonable man
must know hozv to accommodate himself to all situations and cir-
eumstanceSy like water which takes the form and figure of every

STAY AT JAPAN.

«67

vessel into which it is poured." This day the Dutch ships sailed
out of the harbour.

On the eleventh, the masts and yards of the vessel were,
according to agreement, carried on shore : they were conveyed
to Kibatsch in our own boats, with our own sailors on board,
but were towed by the Japanese. Although more than forty
of our people landed on this occasion, they were not attended
by a greater number of guards than usual. On the twelfth,
several officers went on shore without seeing a single native
during the whole time they remained there. The weather was
very fine, and for the first time during many days some plea-
sure-boats with women, attracted by curiosity, made their
usual excursions to contemplate the Russian ship.

In the afternoon of the thirteenth some interpreters came
on board as we had requested, when we desired permission of
the governor to have some of the rye meal we had brought with
us made into bread, and baked at Nangasaki. To this request
our guests promised an answer in a few days. They announced,
that in two or three days a Chinese junk, as had bean suggested
before, would be ready to take our stores on board ; that the
next high tide was only waited for, to set it afloat. In the night
so strong a wind rose, that the water was swelled very much,
which set the junk at liberty. The interpreters came about
four o'clock to bring the permission we had requested with
regard to our bread, and begged to have one of our anchors for
the junk, as the Chinese had only wooden anchors, and they
were not by any means to be trusted to. One was accordingly
sent, and we were promised that the junk should be broug;ht

M M 3

t68 ^TAT AT JAPAN.

the next day. As Kibatsch was now at some distance from US;^
we requested that a place might be assigned in the neighbour-
hood, where the cannon and other heavy articles might be
deposited.

On the thirteenth the junk was brought alongside of us,
when Captain Krusenstern was requested to go on board, and
examine whether it would answer our purpose. Several officers
accompanied him, and were not a little astonished to see the
cabin destined for the Russian ambassador : it was a little mean
apartment without a window, so that it had no light except
from the door ; — for the presents, stores, and other things,
there was ample room. Captain Krusenstern expressed his
dissatisfaction very decidedly, and said he was surprised
how it could be possible for reasonable people like the
Japanese to offer the Russian ambassador such a habitation : it
was scarcely fit for one of their own domestic servants. He de-
clared further, that the repairs of the ship could not be begun
till the presents were unloaded, and a proper habitation was
assigned to the ambassador : the junk could positively not be
accepted for this purpose. Some farther answer relative to
these things would therefore be expected from the governor.
As to what had been said the day before respecting the distance
of Kibatsch, and the consequent inconvenience of sending the
cannon and heavy stores thither, a reply was now brought,
that the governor would assign a good place for the purpose
near the ship, and would provide for a proper guard being
appointed to take care of them.

Several officers went on board the junk, to have a nearer

STAT AT JAPAJf, 269

view of this heavy, clumsy, helpless kind of vessel. The inter-
preters came to inform us that it was not in the power of the
governor to assign the ambassador a habitation at Nangasaki,
or in any other part, before he had an answer with permission to
that effect from Jedo ; this, however, he hoped to receive in
seven or eight days. It was hereupon determined to send away
the junk, and wait on board the ship for this long expected
answer, in the hope that then a proper habitation would be
assigned us, with a convenient place for stowing the presents.
Next morning, therefore, the seventeenth, the junk was towed
away, and a short time after, the anchor which had been lent
for it was restored.

Till the twenty-fourth nothing worthy of notice occurred.
The cold of approaching winter increased daily, and we were
sensibly affected by it : the temperature of the air varied from
4' to 12°. The poor Japanese in the fishing-boats, and the
sailors in the guard-boats, appeared to feel its severity not a
little. Their only covering was a thin cotton garment, and
they slept at night in their open boats, upon a straw mat, with
nothing to defend them from the cold, except this slender
clothing. In the day-time we saw many entirely naked, except
the covering round the waist.

This afternoon the interpi-eters came to us of their own
accord, a thing which had not happened of some time : their
errand was to inquire, in the name of the two governors, after
the ambassador's health. At first they talked only upon indif-
ferent subjects, and their visit seemed to have no particular
object : the principal topic of conversation was the coldness of

:g70 STAT AT JAPAN.

the weather. 1 licy assured us that in a short time it would be
much colder, and gave us to understand that at such a time of
year it was not healthy to remain on board a ship. The arrival
of couriers from Jedo was, however, a subject much nearer to
our hearts than the coldness of the weather; we therefore ques-
tioned them upon it, and were not a little struck at hearing
that one had arrived the day before; he had not, however,
brought any intelligence respecting our concerns; indeed, at
his departure from Jedo our arrival at Nangasaki was not known.
The interpreters concluded with imparting the unwelcome
tidings, that it was probable the instructions respecting us
might not arrive till a fortnight or three weeks from that
time. . '

As the ambassador was somewhat impatient, the interpreters
made him the following proposal. They said, that according
to what appeared, his excellency would prefer a small habitation
at the very end of Nangasaki, to remaining on board the ship,
and they presumed that if he really would be satisfied with this
till the arrival of the courier, it would be better to remit a
representation upon the subject to the governor. The advanced
season of the year, with the coldness of the weather, the ambas-
sador's indifferent state of health, the expediency of unpacking
the presents, and the repairs wanting to the ship, might all be
urged as reasons for pressing him so much to permit our coming
on shore. Upon these grounds, they said, they thought it not
improbable that the governor, from his high respect and esteem
for the Russian Court, might consent to assign him a habitation
without the town ; and they were convinced, that as soon as
the answer was received from Jedo, a spacious dwelling in the

8TAT AT JAPAN.

171

town would be assigned him, consistent with his rank as the
representative of so great a monarch. It was not difficult to
see that they were instructed to circumvent the ambassador,
if possible, on the subject of hig guard ; for they added that
he would much sooner attain his purpose, if he would leave
the soldiers, for whom he had contended as a part of his
suite, on board the ship, or suffer them to follow him on shore
without arms. The ambassador only replied, that this was a
proposal to which he could never consent: he would on no
account relinquish the attendance of the guard of honour : the
utmost to which he could condescend waj^, that they should
carry their muskets without bayonets.

The interpreters on this quitted us, promising that our pro-
posals, with the conditions annexed, should be faithfully repre-
sented to the governor. From all that passed, there appeared
very great reason to suppose that the courier who had arrived
brought very unsatisfactory answers, and that the governor
therefore sought to gain time till the arrival of another The
proposal now made by the interpreter, as if originating entirely
with himself, was exactly what we had repeatedly desired, and
which the governor had alleged, only a week before, it was
not in his power to grant without the emperor's consent.

On the twenty- fifth in the afternoon the interpreters brought
the governor's consent to the amlf^^sador's proposal : they ob-
served, however, that in this he took upon himself a very great
responsibility. He begged, therefore, for his justification, that the
ambassador would make a statement in writing of the necessity
of repairing the damages the ship had received in the storm,

271

STAT AT JAPAN.

and of his being allowed a habitation on shore, on account of
^•he indifferent state of his health. This was done, and it seemed
to give the interpreters great satisfaction. The only difficulty
now remaining was the military attendance: again the intef'-
preters repeated that this was contrary to all the laws of Japan ;
that even the greatest princes of the country never appeared
armed before the governor ; they must therefore once more entreat
that the guard might be omitted, or at least that the number
might be lessened. The ambassador was, however, inflexible :
he said he would positively not go on shore unless attended by
his guard of honour ; that it would be no less degrading for him
to appear without it, than for the officers to appear without
side-arms ; it was an indispensable lappendage to his rank and
dignity. The interpreters shook their heads, and said they
would impart his determination to the governor. They then
drew out plans of the house assigned to him, and of the maga^-
zines for the presents, with which he was very well satisfied.
Before they departed, he desired to know what number of
persons would be permitted to live on shore.

The following day no interpreters appeared: with the
assistance of our telescope, however, we examined the place
destined for the ambassador, and saw a great many people
at work upon it. For several days they were very busy in
cairying on their preparations, and by the thirtieth we could
perceive a high inclosure made round it with bamboo-canes.
The long absence of the interpreters made us somewhat impa-
tient, and our ill-humour was increnred by very cold, stormy,
disagreeable weather.

STAY AT JAPAN.

273

On the first of December we saw a grand illumination at
Desima, the part inhabited by the Dutch : it consisted of
several hundred paper lanterns, which, as far as we could judge,
were arranged with a good deal of taste : they produced a very
good effect. The Dutch factory, as the interpreters assured us,
never omit any opportunity of displaying the grandeur of
their East India Company, though their trade hither is very
inconsiderable. On the second we still saw the people on shore
very busy in preparing the ambassador's house. We anxiously
expected the interpreters, to announce that it was finished ; and
as they had never been near us since the twenty-fifth, they were
now invited on board. In the evening Desima was again illu)«
minated. All day, on the third, the interpreters were anxiously
expected by us, but they did not appear. Uii, .5 ;;.*;:<;

At length, on the fourth, one arrived, and was as usuait
extremely polite and courteous. He brought many inquiries
from both governors respecting the health of the ambassador^
and the other gentlemen, and said that the memorial sent by
the ambassador, stating the grounds on which he desired to
come on shore, had been faithfully delivered. He assured
us also that the courier from Jedo was expected every day,
and had been a much longer time than usual in returning.

Having observed, as I said above, the inclosure round the
house, we could not help asking somewhat sarcastically whether
the place we were to inhabit was, like our walk at Kibatsch, to
be surrounded with a bamboo fence, that the Great Man might
not be disturbed by the people. The interpreter could not help
gmiling, and said he did indeed think that all these regula-

N X

S74

STAY AT JAPAN.

tions of the governnient were very pitiful ; but in fact they were
established customs, and must be complied with. He finished
by making many inquiries respecting the domestic economy of
the house ; among others, whether we would have the kitchen
furnished with Japanese utensils, or whether we would bring our
own from the ship : he observed that they had no chairs or
tables, and that we must therefore bring our own. At his de-
parture we entreated him to expedite the business as much as
possible, and free us from our long and tedious captivity.

Again several days elapsed without seeing any interpreters,
or, consequently, hearing any thing more concerning the arrival
of the courier, or the state of preparation which the house had
attained. At length, on the 'tenth, some appeared, and we
were all in eager expectation of being satisfied upon one, at
least, if not both these points. They began, as usual, with
many inquiries from both governors into the state of the am-
bassador's health, and at length, to our infinite mortification,
expressed their extreme sorrow that the house was not ready,
nay, they believed that it must be yet four or five days before
it could be so. To the question whether no courier was ar-
rived, we received for answer the customary negative. At a
former visit of the interpreters, some planks for repairing the
ship had been requested: instead of the planks themselves,
however, they now brought specimens of different kinds of
wood, for the captain to choose which would best suit hi&
purpose.

There was scarcely a soul on board the Nadeschda who did
«ot feel great impatience and indignation at being thus trifled

STAY AT JAPAN. 375.,

witht even the ambassador could not refrain from giving vent
to his feelings, and saying td the interpreters that we had lost a
great deal of time very unnecessarily by these repeated delays ;
that we must leave Japan in four months at the very farthest, in
order to revisit Kamschatka. If we were not returned to-
Europe by the month of July in the following year, it would be
believed in Russia that we had experienced some misfortune,
and ships would, probably, be sent out in quest of us. In case
they went on lingering in such a way, no time would remain
for the embassy to proceed to Jedo, and he should be con-
strained to demand his dismission. To this one of the interpreters^
answered, that he comprehended all these things perfectly, and
had often represented the same to the governor ; but the latter
really was* not able to take any step without instructions from
the Court. ** It is laughable," he added, ** that Japan, tlii$
little country, this little island, makes so much ceremony, and
contrives so many difficulties ; that in all her manners, even iu
her ways of thinking, she is little ; while Russia, which is a
very extensive country, is in all her ways and manners, in aU
her thoughts and actions, great and noble."

Upon our observing that it was scarcely possible in such
a lapse of time that no courier should have returned from
Jedo, and that it was well known to us from the descrip*
tions of Japan given by Kaempfer and Thunberg, that a cou-
rier could go from Nangasaki to Jedo, and return again, in
twenty-one days ; the interpreter answered that this was very
true, but it must be considered, that in a case of such import-^
ance as the present, the whole council of state must be assenv*
bled, and the courier could not be dispatched again so hastily.

976

STAY AT JAPAN.

The interpreter did not leave us till it was quite dark, reite-
rating at his departure the usual empty promises : assuring us
that the house would 3oon be ready for our reception, and that
the planks requisite for mending the ship should speedily be
provided. ,. -./icr -;' - '> ^ • •,

';i.

From the eleventh to the fifteenth of December nothing
particular occurred. On the fifteenth we were informed by
the interpreters that the house was ready, and that the ambas-
sador would be expected on shore the next day but one. He
was commissioned, however, he said, to inquire in the first
place whether his excellency would go in one of his own boats,
or whether he would accept the boat of the Prince of Fisi for
the occasion.

;' '•

Answer. The latter will be preferred.

Question. How many officers and other persons does the
ambassador propose to carry on shore ?

Answer, About ten officers, and about fifteen other persons,
among whom are included the seven soldiers of the guard of
honour, and the four Japanese brought from Russia. '

vti.

Question. What goods and chattels the ambassador wishes to
have with him ?

Answer. None, excepting clothes, and the presents for the
Emperor of Japan.

\..

STAY AT JAPAN. 37^r

Question. When the presents will be carried on shore ?

Answer. As soon as the place where they are to be deposited
is ready for them.

Question. In what boats will they be carried ? ;

. / . • •» -^ .

Answer. The assistance of the Japanese ones will be re-
quested. ■ - ■: ■■^'' ;:>, ■.*:'^'^ '' ■'' ■ '- -■ ""; - '.

When these inquiries were concluded, the ambassador pro-
posed that some of his officers should go in the morning and
see whether the house was made tolerably convenient, or whe-
ther it might not in some soi't resemble the Chinese junk.
No farther mention was made of the soldiers, but that they
might come with the ambassador. In the afternoon we saw
a great number of men upon a hill, who were very busy in run-
ning up several small houses with screens before them near
our dwelling. As these are the fortresses of the country, we
conjectured that they must be intended for a Japanese land-
jiuard of honour.

' ' " * ■ • • f

According to their promise, the interpreters came toward*
noon on the sixteenth, and brought word, that the next morn-
ing at seven o'clock the officers would be welcome to go
and see the house, and if they found every thing convenient
the ambassador would be expected in the evening. To this his
excellency objected, that he should scarcely be able to go the
next day, since tables, chairs, kitchen utensils, and other fur-
niture, must be carried from the ship, and he must remaiii

■^

$79 STAT AT JAPAN.

on board till every thing could be arranged. These observa-
tions confounded the interpreters not a little. They said
that the governor had made preparations for receiving the
ambassador the next day ; that all the gentlemen of the country -
and of Nangasaki were informed of it, and that they would
consequently be extremely embarrassed if his excellency's land-
ing should be deferred. The ambassador observed in reply,
that he had for a long time been extremely embarrassed with
the delays made in granting him permission to go on shore.
The observation seemed to be felt very keenly, and the interpre-
ters entreated very earnestly, as a particular favour, that he
would not disappoint the governor. T'hey added, that in the
bope of his compliance, the governor had ordered a boat to be
in readiness \. tin sixty rowers, and a proper retinue of smaller
boats to tow it.

It was at length agreed, that at seven the next morning some
Banjos should come to accompany five officers to the habita-
tion, that they might inspect every thing, and that the Ja-
panese should be ready immediately on their return to carry thi-
ther the furniture and whatever else was wanted by the ambas-
sador, so that he himself might be able to go at the appointed
time. In the following days boats were to be furnished to
bring the presents on shore, and deposit them in the maga-
zines prepared for their reception.

At day-break, a great number of lairge and small Japanese
boats assembled about our ship^ and about eight o'clock came
two Opperbanjos and the interpreters. In the first place, the
usual ceremonies must be performed : they were conducted into

STAT AT JAPAIf. %iff

the cabin, where they turned in due form to the ambassador^
and said, that the governor had, upon his ovn responsibiKty,
without any instructions from Jedo, solely from the respect lie
felt for the representative of Russia, and because the latter
found himself not in good health, assigned him a dwelling on
shore, with magazines for other purposes. The place waft
indeed small, and lay near the water ; but this could not be
otherwise, since all foreigners coming to Japan must, accord-
ing to the Japanese laws, be so placed : as soon, however, as
the answer from Jedo should be received, a better and more
spacious habitation he trusted would be assigned.

Some officers whom I was permitted to accompany were
now sent, conformably to the armngement made the day
before, to visit the house. We went in our own boat, at-
tended by some Japanese barks, to Megasaki, for this was
the name of the place where the house was ; and here we
were received by several interpreters, who shewed us about.
It was a wooden building, consisting of nine apartments. The
floors were all covered with new straw matting, but there was
no furniture except some large copper biusiers, intended to
serve instead of stoves. The windows were of thin paper, not
oiled, and stretched over a very poor and mean frame-work.
The magazines for the presents were so spacious, that the
half of one made a very convenient habitation for the soldiers
and the four Japanese. After we had examined everything,
and expressed our satisfaction in the governor's name to two
Banjos whom we also met here, we returned again to the
sliip. All the things intended to be carried on shore were
now sent off, and immediately after dinner the ambassador

V80

STAY AT JAPAN.

with his trainband the military guard of honour, went on hoard
the Prince of Fisi's barge. Though it was made to carry sixty
rowers, not an oar was used : it was towed by other boats,
since, according to the customs of the country, this was more
respectful.

The barge was a hundred and twenty feet long, and was
divided in the length by two partitions, forming, as it were,
three apartments. The centre one was considered as the room
of state ; the partitions by which it was divided were hung
within with lilac silk, ornamented with the arms of the Prince
of Fisi : the outside of the partitions was canvas ornamented
with different paintings. The sides' of the room within were
lacquered, and had the prince's arms inwrought in gold in the
manner of mosaic-work : over the room was an awning of very
handsome tapestry ; and the floor was partly varnished, partly
covered with costly carpeting. The whole made a very hand-
some and shewy appearance. Here sat the ambassador in a
chair brought from the ship, and a table before him, on which
lay his credentials. The Russian soldiers, one of whom carried
the Imperial standard, were in the outer apartments of the
barge, where a sort of gallery or deck was raised.

In this way we proceeded to Megasaki, surrounded by an
immense number of Japanese barges. As we passed the
guard-house and fortifications near which we had lain at an-
chor, we observed them hung with new cloth, and the usual
number of hangings increased. A vast number of soldiers were
ranged on the hill above the guard-house : some of them car-
jied muskets, others flags, others standards : all bad insignia of

STAr AT JAPAN. 2S\

honour of some kind or other in their hands. The interpreters
pointed this out to the ambassador, and assured him it was all
intended to shew him respect. The neighbouring shore was
covered with some thousands of spectators, who followed the
barge to the place of its destination ; but thei'e they were care-
fully kept off from pressing upon his excellency, so as to in-
commode him.

The water was so shallow in the neighbourhood of Mega-
gaki, that the ambassador was obliged to descend into a smaller
boat ; it was, however, very handsome, and was lackered. The
guard of honour and officers of the embassy went first on shore,
and were followed by his excellency : he was received by seve-
ral Opperbanjos and interpreters, with the Japanese guard of
honour, and a number of Japanese, who had filled the littU
place before the house, to shew him all possible deference. The
ambassador found his new residence tolerably to his satisfaction,
and sent his thanks for it to the governor. The kitchen had been
furnished against our arrival: there was a good fire, and venison9
with fowls, ducks, and rice, were ready prepared for us.

About an hour after the Great Men of Japan, with the
interpreters, had left us, and some of the officers of the ship^
who accompanied us, had returned on board, the doors of
our new habitation were close shut and locked, and we were
surrounded with a guard on all sides.

98i

ITAir AT JAPAN.

I k*t,\' 1

f- ;■'.-■.

L.J^k*4 J>v •

. , '4

.!l^

'L'-»!f''4':i

CHAPTER XII.

Stay at Megasaki. — Description of the Habitation there.— Permission given
for the Ship to be carried into the Harbour.— One of the Japanese
attempts to cut his Throat.— A Balloon sent upy and the Alarm

' y occasioned by it.^-Jllneia of the Ambassador,

£».i 1 .r

tii> ::

y ii\fy,yiiu%'bii.

Our party were now separated ; thd ambassador, Major Von
Friderici, Counsellor Von Fosse, Captain FoedorofF, Lieutenant
Koscheleff, Monsieur Schemelip, commissioner of the Russio-
American trading company , and myself, with the guard of honour,
.and the four Japanese whom we had brought from Russia, lived
on shore, while the rest remained on board the Nadeschda. The
place we inhabited was surrounded with water on three sides ;
r on the fourth it was joined to the land, forming in this way a
sort of quadrangular peninsula. The buildings were ranged
round three sides of a court, which might be about fifty paces
in length and. forty in breadth : on one side was the dwelling-
house of the ambassador, on the other two were magazines. The
fourth side, by which we might have had a fine prospect upon
the sea, was closed by a high double palisade of bamboo-canes,
which effectually shut out all prospect.

X !

. Two doors led into the court, one of which opened upon
the side to the water : this was guarded by the barge of the

^ ♦

-N

STAT AT JAPAN. 283

Prince of Fisi, already sp well known to us; before the other,
M'hich led to the town, a double guard was placed, namely, an
imperial civil guard, and a military guard of the Prince of
Omuru. The first was stationed about three paces from the
entrance to our court, and watched also another door at some
distance ; the second was placed upon a hill which rose behind
the station of the civil guard, and commanded our whole court
like a tower ; it was not, indeed, above a stone's throw from
it. Both doors of our habitation were regularly locked and
bolted upon us every night. r i»-;)iii., ;. /

Nothing particular occurred before the twenty-first. The
presents were by degrees carried on shore, the ship continuing
at anchor before the imperial guard-house. Every cargo of things
brought to Megasaki was inspected by some Banjos and inter-
preters, and an accurate list taken of them, that no frauds
might be co»rimitted, and that nothing might be stolen.

On the twenty-second, the interpreters announced to us
that an answer had been received the day before from
Jedo, and that a Great Man would come that day in the name
of the governor to communicate it to the ambassador. Several
discussions had already taken place how this man was to be
received, because, as the interpreters said, he was to impart the
determinations of the emperor. The ambassador put an end
to all further discussion upon the subject, by saying that he
would receive the Opperbanjos with all possible politeness and
distinction, and not omit any of the customary tokens of
friendship and courtesy. It was consequently decided that the
Great Man should be received according to our European

00 2

884

ST iY AT JAPAN.

customs, the ambassador during the conversation sitting upon
a chair, the Opperbanjos upon a sofa.

At the same time the interpreters mentioned, as if casually,
in speaking upon the subject of the ceremonies to be observed
when the ambassador had his audience of the governor, that
all ambassadors from the most ancient times had, according to
the oriental usages, knelt to the governor. As a proof that
they spoke truth, copies were produced of several official
accounts of audiences granted to the oldest Portuguese ambas-
sadors, by which it appeared plainly that they had complied
with the custom. The ambassador then said, that it was
entirely his wish to return in the most proper manner every
instance of politeness he received from the governor, and to
regulate his conduct according to the established customs of the
country.

. Tlic Great Man at length appeared with a very consequential
air, and announced, in the name of the governor, the arrival of
a courier from Jedo, who brought the important permis-
sion from the EmjTerorof Japan for the ship, which had arrived
from Russia, to come to Nangasaki. The next day it was in
consequence towed iiito the harbour, and anchored at the
distance of a verst and a half from our habitation at Megasaki.
At the same time, the guard stationed upon the hill above u»
was removed : this, as we afterwards learned, was done at the
express command of the emperor.

Notwithstanding the number of guards and guard-ships
attending upon us, difficulties were still made in allowing a

STAY AT JAPAN. 2g5

free communication between those of our party >viio lived on
the land, and those who remained still on the water. We were
obliged to notify to the governor when any one wished to come
on shore from the ship, or to go on board the ship from our
habitation. We made many remonstrances against such a
troublesome arrangement, and at length obtained permission
for an unrestrained intercourse between the different divisions
of our party. A regulation was however made, that in the
case of any one wishing to come on shore, or to go on board -
notice should be given to the officer on guard by hanging out
a red flag, that the double fastenings on the doors, that is to
say, those both within and without, might be unclosed. It
was besides made an express condition, that neither more
nor less than the number of persons originally agreed upon
should ever sleep on shore ; for this reason it was necessary that
we should all pass in review before the officer every evening.
On the twenty-fifth. Lieutenant Koscheleff having business
on board the ship, which made him wish to remain there
all night, we were obliged to send for a sailor to supply his
place, that the proper number might appear at the review.

On the thirtieth, the ambassador sent for some inter-
preters, and informed them that we should want plates of
copper, nails, planks, beams, and various other articles for
the repair of the ship ; he also requested of the governor a
small place on the neighbouring shore, where the tackling
might be repaired. The interpreters promised every thing tliat
was required, and said the government considered it as a duty
to furnish us with whatever was necessary for repairing the ship,
free of all expence.

S86

STAY AT JAPAN.

On the thirty-first, the Dutch solemnized the conclusion
of the old year. Tlie interpreters were almost all feasted at
Desima, and in the evening we saw a grand illumination there.
At Megasaki we were obliged to pass the night with our
customary patience and philosophy, and to content ourselves
with listening, over a quiet glass of punch, to the daily music
of locking up our doors. In the night between the first and
second of January, the thermometer fell to one degree below
the freezing point.

On the third, the interpreters brought us specimens of
plates of copper for sheathing our vessel, with copper nails,
and other things that we had mentioned for repairing the ship.
They told us in confidence, that an order had been issued the
day before by the governor for all the boats belonging to
Prince Tschingodsi to return home, as Japan was upon the best
terms possible with Russia. We indeed saw at least forty
boats which had lain before the harbour now under sail, and
observed that the arms of the guard-boats of Fisi were laid aside.
To the question why we remained still without any answer as
to the embassy being admitted to an audience, the interpreter
said, that the temporal sovereign alone could not determine any
thing with regard to it, that he had therefore consulted the
Daui, or spiritual sovereign, but the latter had not as yet given
any answer.

Another half month passed without our hearing any thing
farther on the subject nearest our hearts. The cold dis-
agreeable weather proved exceedingly injurious to the health
of the ambassador; and Mynheer Doeif, who heard how

STAY AT JAPAN.

«8T

snnch he suffered, had a very handsome wadded Japanese
nightgown made for him. As, however, it was a Japanese
production, he was obliged, before he could send it, to ask the
governor's permission : instead of granting the permission, the
latter reimbursed the merchant for the expence of the night-
gown, and then sent it in his own name to the ambassador. '

ni'u I n

On the sixteenth, early in the morning, there was a very
unusual bustle and confusion in our house; when, on inquiry
into the occasion of it, we were informed that one of the Ja-
panese whom we hi* 'i>rought with us had attempted to destroy
himself. With tl . i-jw he had thrust a razor through his
mouth into his throat, but was seen in time by the bystanders
for them to prevent his completely executing his purpose. A
quantity of blood streamed from the mouth of the wounded man,
but the Japanese civil officer on duty would by no means con-
sent that I should examine the wound, or give him any medical
assistance. The event was announced by the guard, and a
Banjos with a physician was sent for, who did not arrive till the
afternoon : they then entered into a very minute investigation
of the affair, and took down a proce^-verbal of it, which was
carefully sealed up. The wound did not appear to be danger-
ous. A very handsome lackered chest was carried before tlie
physician, and he took out of this portable apothecary's shop
whatever was wanted for his patient. He made a gargle of
various kinds of plants, putting into it a powder which imme-
diately dissolved.

In consequence of this event, the ambassador sent to request
the governor that he would take all the Japanese, and so prevent

^ga STAY Kt JAPAN.

the recurrence of any circumstances equally unpleasant. Tlie
governor, however, answered, tha* he could not comply with this
request, because, when on a former occasion^ application had
been made to the ambassador to give them up, he had declined
it: he must now, therefore, wait for instructions from Jedo,
before he could take any steps in the matter. The ambassador
upon this wrote himself to the governor, but with no better
success. The Banjos and officers instituted a very minute
inquiry into the affair, but nothing more was to be learned ex-
cepting that the man had possessed his mind with the idea
that in returning to his native country his liberty was for-
feited. • ^

At eight o'clock in the evening our doors were very un-
expectedly unlocked, and we were visited by a great many Ja-
panese. The interpreters who came with them said that the
Banjos only wished to see whether every thing was in ordcr^
and that they often made similar visits to the Dutch and
Chinese. We could not, in fact, by any means account other-
wise for his coming at so unseasonable an hour.

Since the eighteenth, the second door under the care of the
civil guard had been left unlocked : it led to a small open place,
some hundred paces long, inclosed with bamboo canes on the
side towards the town. We availed ourselves of it to walk
where we had a freer air, and an extensive view over the water,
ascribing the additional liberty thus given us to the ambassador
having observed to a Banjos, some days before, that our habi-
tation had rather the appearance of a prison than of the abode
of an ambassador from a mighty potentate. On the nineteenth.

STAT AT JAPAN.

23f

late in the evening, a Banjos came again, the same as two days
before, to examine our habitation. This time he honoured the
ambassador with paying his respects to him, which he said he
did by order of the governor, to inform him that the Japanese
who had attempted to destroy himself was out of his mind.
. ■ , i ■ '■•,'■ ■ •■ , , ' '

On the twenty-second an interpreter was sent for, to take an
account of many things requisite for repairing the ship : among
other things, we said we were extremely rejoiced that we had
for some days been allowed to breathe the fresh air, and walk
in the little place before our door. He assured us that this
was done without the consent of the governor, and that such a
freedom, which we had taken entirely of ourselves, might be
extremely injurious to him as well as the officers upon guard.
He promised, however, to mention the thing to the gover-
nor, and procure us, if possible, a regular permission to walk
there. The next day he brought word that we should have
every thing mentioned for the repair of the ship, and that the
ambassador with his train, and the officers, had leave to walk in
the place, but not the soldiers and servants.

The wounded Japanese was now daily visited by a physician
and a surgeon, or some of their assistants. The first was dis-
tinguished by his head being entirely shaved ; the second by
having very thick hair: the other civil and military people
have the head shaved only upon the crown, but have hair upon
the sides of the head and neck.

The interpreters at the same time said that the governor
hoped to be able very shortly to rejoice us by the commu-

P 9

S90

STAY AT JAPAN.

nication of agreeable nevrs. On the other side of our new walk
we now often saw people who came to look at us through the
trellis, in the same manner thatr in £urope we look at wild
beasts carried about for a show. Men, women, and children,
of all ranks and ages, were gaping on every side. Among
others were a number of mendicant monks : they, as well
as the physicians, had their heads entirely shaved. Some of
the interpreters, who came to us on the twenty-fourth upon
business in a variety of ways, told us in confidence that the
answer from Jedo was so long in coming, because the Emperor
had sent one of his first counsellors to the Da'iri, and they not
being agreed about the reception of the ambassador, both were
practising intrigues to carry the point after their own way : it
was hoped, however, that in fifteen or twenty days the decisive
answer would arrive.

On the twenty-seventh the ambassador sent for some inter-
preters, and commissioned them to make known to the
governor that his patience and forbearance had reached their
highest point. He insisted, he said, upon having a decisive
answer, or knowing why he was kept so long waiting for one,
and was put off from day to day, from week to week, from
month to month, with empty promises. The interpreters told
us, as a profound secret, that a council had been assembled at
Jedo, who were commissioned by the Emperor to consult
together upon the expediency of establishing an intercourse of
trade with Kussia, and that this was the cause of so many
delays.

As the next day was the beginning of the Japanese new year.

STAY AT JAPAN.

391

on this day, that is the twenty-ninth, two fir-trees were planted
before the door of every house, which were surrounded with
wooden benches. Over the entrance of the doors was placed a
trophy of platted straw-work, representing a lobster, an orange,
or a cabbage; many consisted of dried fruit, or of two parti-
cular coins, with some salt and rice, a piece of sea-weed, fucm
saccharinusy or bamboo-canes with the leaves, or fern. The
lobster, on account of its powers of r production, since a whole
claw, if torn off, will grow again, and of its fine red colour, is
considered by the Japanese as the emblem of health. The
orange is called in their language dai-dait the same word which
signifies posterity, the increase of which is to be looked forward
to in the new year. A cabbage is called in Japanese sumiy and
the same word signifies riches, of which it is intended as the
emblem. The others are things of indispensable necessity to
the Japanese, and probably have all similar allusions attached
to them.

In the evening the ambassador received a very fine new-yeaif s
gift in the Japanese taste : similar presents are sent from one
Japanese to another, according to their rank and character.
That which the ambassador received was rare even in the
country, since similar ones are only sent between the most
ilUistrious and most distinguished people. On a very neatly-
made new wooden chest were two large round dishes of cooked
rice, and over them a lobster, an orange* a piece oifucus sac*"
charinus, some salt chesnuts, figs, grass, several different sorts
of leaves, some straw, and, at the top of all, a paper with a

•ompliment, such as was described above*.

" ■ ■ — "" • 'I *■ ■» ■ — - — I ■ ■ . .■ ■ II — 1 1 ■ I <

* Sue page 259..

F p2

293

STAT AT JAPAN.

Towards evening eame an interpreter with the answer to the
questions sent two days before. He assured the ambassador
that the governor was inexpressibly concerned at his having
been so often deceived in his expectations. He could only
supponc that the delay of a decisive answer from Jedo arose
from the Emperor's having summoned his uncle, his brother,
and anotlier near relation, who lived two hundred miles
from the capital, to consult with them about the reception of
the embassy : he, however, considered this delay as a favour-
able omen for the happy issue of the business, as a refusal would
probably have been sent long before.

The thirtieth of January was the Japanese New-year's Day.
People were making visits to each other till very late in the
evening. This lasted for three days. On these and other
solemn occasions, the Japanese wear a dress of ceremony ; that
is to say, from the emperor to the poorest subject, every one
has a particular dress worn over the usual one. It is made of a
pale blue cotton, and is of the same quality, colour, and make,
for every body of all ranks and degrees.

On thefirstof February an interpreter came in the costume of
ceremony : he was sent by the governor, to wish the ambassador
a happy new year. He told us that another courier had been
dispatched to Jedo the day before, to hasten the answer. On
the second, as the last festival-day, a little box was brought full
of roasted pease, which Avere strewed about every corner of the
house, to drive away the devil and all evil spirits. On the
fourth, the ornaments of the new year were taken away, and
little boughs of fruit were set before the entrance of the doors,

STAY AT JAPAN. 393

as a sign of approaching spring. As the recovery of our
wounded Japanese appeared very uncertain, on the fifth a third
physician was called in. ■ i

The paper of this country being very thin, light, and
strong, consequently well adapted to the construction of a
Moiigolfier, I determined on making one : it was about ten
feet in diameter, and fifteen feet high. Some interpreters and
several Japanese officers came to us on the sixth, and were
highly gratified with the .spectacle of the first balloon ever
sent up in Japan. It rose to a considerable height, ^but then
got a little rent in the upper part, so that it fell in the town of
Kangasaki. From the burning spirit attached to it, the globe
began to take fire soon after it had fallen, and so great a
quantity of smoke issued from it, that the people had the
idea of its being a fire-ball. They immediately extin-
guished the flame, and carried it to the governor, when the
interpreters explained the matter to him. If he had been a
less reasonable man, the affair might have been attended with
very disagreeable consequences ; as it was, he only desired that
if I sent up a balloon again I would chuse a time when the
wind would carry it towards the sea, and not towards the
land.

On the eighth, several interpreters came to take leave of
us : they were going to Jedo, to carry the emperor some pre-
sents in the name of the Batavian Company. Either these
merchants find the journeys too expensive any longer to go
themselves on such occasions, or the permission to do so has of
late yearft been refused them.

894 STAY AT JAPAN.

Infurmation was at this time sent us from the gpvernor.
that a very clistint^uished civil magistrate i^ad set out from
Jedo, who would be at Nangasaki in a month, and would
bring a decisive answer with respect to the embassy. Suffi-
cient reason was here given to doubt very much whether out*
expected journey to Jedo would take place. All possible
assistance was given us in repairing the ship, and we were
even offered voluntarily a more roomy place for cariying on the
work in case it was necessary.

On the twelfth and thirteenth, the different articles of the
new year's gifts were burnt, and a figure was hung in the
middle of the door of every house, which was. to prevent the
entrance of illness.

Nothing particular occurred till the twentieth. The am-
bassador found himself much indisposed, complaining of rheu-
matic pains and oppression upon the chest; he was besides,
very naturally, chagrined and mortified, as the representative
of a great monarch, to find himself so confined and restrained,
as if he had been a state prisoner ; this not a little increased
his malady. The governor often sent interpreters and Banjos
to inquire after his health. His continued indisposition induced
him at length to consult the Japanese physician who came
every day to visit his wounded countiyman ; be gave him a
faithful account of his ailments, and begged his advice as to
the remedies by which they might be cured.

The physician immediately entered upon an examination of
his new patient. The most striking part of it was, that he felt

STAT AT JAPAN.

S05

his belly very much, and instead of applying to the pulse, neld
his head hard against the breast to feel the beating of the
heart. The Japanese officers were present, and consented that
the physician should give the ambassador some medicines from
his chest; they were simples, of which a sort of tea was made
to promote perspiration. The same evening some other officers
arrived, sent, as they said, by the governor, with a request
that these medicines might be returned, and that the ambassa-
dor would intimate in writing his wish to be attended by a
Japanese physician.

The next morning came an interpreter, to whom the ambas-
sador had the day before given a verbal commission, to request
permission of the governor to be attended by a Japanese physi-
cian. The answer he brought was, that the person of the
ambassador being of so much importance, it was necessary to
proceed with caution, lest, if the illness should terminate un-
happily, the Russian emperor shoul i demand satisfaction of the
Emperor of Japan. He must request, therefore, that the wish
to be attended by a Japanese physician should be signified in
writing.

Upon this. Major Von Friderici wrote a letter in the name
of the ambassador, apologizing that his illness prevented his
writing himself. In the evening came several officers and
interpreters, who did not require to see the ambassador, but
oiily^to speak with some of the officers belonging to the embassy,
and with me as principal physician. They were commissioned
by the governor to say that he was much surprised at finding
the ambassador desirous of consulting a Japanese physician.

STAT AT JAPAN.

«ince it wax universally known how much the Europeaiu
were considered as superior to the people of Japan in me-
dical knowledge, and that there were three doctors in medi-
cine attached to the expedition, (he meant Doctor Espen-
berg. Doctor Tilesius, and myself.) lie must, therefore,
suppose the danger to be very great, and could not posiiiblj
give the permission desired, unless the ambassador's physician
and all the cavaliers of the embassy would declare in writing
that it was to the last degree necessary. Neither I nor any
other person could say this with a safe conscience, besides it
would occasion no small delay, especially as the interpreters did
not know, even supposing it done, what answer would be given
by the governor. On my assurance, therefore, that a crisis
must be expected the following night, and that it would be too
late to wait for the morning, they were satisfied.

The next day his excellency found himself so much better,
that the attendance of the Japanese physician was no longer
desirable. Some of our oflficers with much diflficulty obtained
the use of their fowling-pieces for a short time, to clean them,
and ^. reserve them from becoming entirely rusty.

On the twenty-seventh some interpreters came on board the
Nadeschda, ostensibly to inquire after the health of Captain
Krusenstern ; but the real motive of their visit seemed to be
that they wished to know how the repairs were going on, and
to see whether the ship would soon be in a state to sail. They
afterwards came to make inquiries after the amba^ador.
Among other things, they now said the governor had received
Uitelligence by a courier just arrived from Jedo, that a dis«

STAT AT JAPAN. 297

tiiiguishcd civil magistrate would bo dispatched by the empe-
ror to Naiigasaki upon our business, who would set out un the
eigiiteenth of February. At this the ambassador could not
refrain from expressing iiis astonishment tliat he was so repeat-
edly put off with untruths, since on the eighth of FebrLAiy he
had been told that this Greai Man was already upon hib > outc,
ftnd would be at Nangasaki in a month.

Ou the first of March the remainder of the fowling-pieces
"were brought to us spontaneously to be cleaned, without our
having given even a hint upon the subject. From a private
conversation with the interpreters, we were led to suppose that
every thing respecting the future trade with Russia was already
determined upon, and that the magistrate from Jedo would
bring with him all the necessary documents, so that no hope
seemed to remain of our going ourselves to that capital.

We Had. now for some time had Starcely any intercourse with
the Japanese : some interpreters only came from time to time»
to inquire after the ambassador's health, and to see the pro-
gress made in repairing the ship; but we could learn i>'ithing
with respect to the event of our embassy. At length, on the
twelfth of March, an interpreter told us that he doubted much
whether our journey to Jedo would take plar<:: it seemed
probable, he said, that the Great Man whv^ vvas on his route
to Nangasaki, and who would arrive in ten days, would be
empowered to conclude the business with us, so that we;
might be ready, conformably with our wishes, to sail in ApriU
or May.

Q Q

ig9S STAT AT JAPAN.

Ih the following days pieparations for our departure were
»et about very seriously : the men began to carry the tackling
en board, and put it in order for sailing. With regard to pro-
Tisions, an interpreter told us that we might have plenty of
biscuit, rice, and salt^ free of expencc, as the government con-
sidered it a duty in some measure to repay us for the quantity
of provisions we must have consumed in coming from Russia
to Japan. On the twenty-sixth a very heavy storm came
pn, accompanied with showers of rain. The west wind was
so powerful, that though our ship was moored with two an-
chors, it was driven fifty £cithom from its place, and was in
great danger of running upon a sand-bank. A third anchor
was thrown out, when the wind abated,' and a smart thunder
storm concluded the series of foul weather. It seemed indeed
the time of year for tempestuous weather in these parts, as
we had had four very stM'my days since the seventeenth of
March. ■. ■

i'tr'f:'^''

STAY AT JAPAN.

CHAPTER Xm.

Recapitulation of what had passed at Nangasaki. — The Arrival of the
Great Man from Jedo announced to the Amlmssadtr.^^DiscussioTW
concerning the Manner in which the Ambassador was to he received.-^
His first Audience of Ceremony, — His second Audience for Bvsinesa.—^
His third Audience to take Leave.

In this way did we pass several months in the place assigned'
us at Megasaki, shut up under locks and bolte. We had
scarcely any intercourse with the Japanese, for even the inter-
preters could not visit us without a special permission from the
governor; they came therefore but seldom, and not unless
urged to it by particular business , Our principal occupation
during this time was to clear the ship, to bring the presents on
shore, and to unpack and set them in order. The repairs of
the ship besides occupied our attention ; and, strange enough,
whatever was wanted in this way we might ask for freely, and
it was brought immediately. As to every thing else, provisions
excepted, we could not make any purchase without asking
permission of the governor, and this was often refused, or if
granted, not without great difficulty ; even such trifles as a live
bird or a tobacco-pipe were sometimes lefused. !Pro visions of
every kind were furnished us free of expence. We were put off"
with fair words from one month to another. All possible free-

qq2

STAT AT JkTAK.

dom \ras promised us as soon as the answer should be re-
<^eiTed from Jedo, with a free intercourse between the two na-
tions. , ,

* t

After waiting about two months, the arrival of a Great Man
(ft messenger from Jedo was announced to us, when the whole
matter seemed immediately to assume a hew face. Our hopes
of a journey to the capital diminished every day ; the inter-
preters examined more minutely than before into the progress
made in repairing the ship, and at length nothing remained
but the hope of being able to establish a friendly intercourse of
*i'ade.

He who would put himself in our place can yet have but a
very imperfect idea how disagreeable we found our situation.
After encountering many storms, and experiencing much in-
convenience, we had at last reached an interesting foreign coun-
try, where we hoped to be received, if not as friends, at least as
strangers of distinction, entitled to all possible deference and
respect. Instead of this, we were treated as criminals or state
prisoners, confined in a place at the utmost not exceeding a
hundred paces in the square, where we were locked up and
watched on every side. This was equally hard and unjust.

Spring was now coming on : all nature began to be alive, and^
we were shut out entirely from the view of so charming a spec-
tacle by immense barricadoes of bamboo canes ;— being deprived
besides of our arms, we were wholly at the mercy of this suspi-
cious nation. All means of exerting ourselves for the promo-
tion of science and knowledge were precluded, ,so that the

STAY AT JAPAN.

301

mind grew contracted for want of freedom and a wider range

in which it might expand itself. The fish alone brought to us

as provisions afforded an object for scientific investigation, and

by secret promises we at length prevailed upon our caterer ta

bring us every time different kinds of fish : with these. Count

seller Tilesius and myself sometimes entertained ourselves Itery

agreeably. We were not only precluded from all purchases, '*

but were equally prohibited making the most trifling present to

any Japanese. Some insignificant objects, such as Indian ink,

a couple of pictures, some fans, tobacco-pipes, &c. were

brought us secretly by such of the interpreters as were the most

in our confidence ; but in so doing they incurred the risk of aa

examination ; and if they had been detected their lives would

probably have atoned the misdemeanour.

On the twenty-seventh of March, to our great joy, it was
announced to us in due form on the part of the governor, that
the Great Man from Jedo, with the emperor's answer, was ex-
pected at Nangasaki in two days. From our guards We learnt
on the thirtieth that this bearer of bis master's pleasure had
been in the town several days, but it was not till the second
of April tlmt the intelligence of his arrival was communicated tp
us. We also remarked that it was a long time since we hadij
seen any interpreters. At length, on the third, some appeared,
who, besides announcing the arrival of the Great Man, invited
the ambassador to an audience the next day at the governor's
house : they said, moreover, that they were xonnnissioned to.
regulate the ceremonies proper to be observed upon tlie occa^
sion.

■>ul

802 STAY AT JAPAN.

Oil this subject they informed the ambassador that the
next moniing, at eight o'clock, an Opperbanjos would come
to conduct him to the governor's house. As the way, by
water was the shortest, it was proposed that he should go in
the Prince of Fisi's barge to the great stairs of Ochatto (the
Muscle), where he would be received by a civil and military
guard, and from thence he would proceed to the governor's in
a, large Norimon or Sedan-chair, accompanied by several Great
Men. This distinction, however, must be confined to him
alone, the officers of his tjrain must go on foot. They assured
him, that the Norimon was very roomy and convenient, and
that this mode of conveyance was confined entirely to the
Daimios, the most distinguished persbnages of the country.
When arrived at the governor's house, he would be intro-
duced into a separate chamber by himself, and the officers of
his train into another, there to rest till the opening of the
audiciice. We observed that they avoided making use of the
terra xoait. This was all, they said, done from particular re-
spect, as it was the custom of the country that Great Men
should at all times be separated from the inferior servants of the
government. The ambassador, however, begged to decline
this distinction, and requested that his officers might be in the
same apartment with himself.

In the Hall of Audience, the interpreters proceeded, the
ambassador alone could be permitted to enter, since this was a
place sacred only to the very greatest people of the country ;
and the Dutch never were allowed to come farther than the
antichamber. To this the ambassador made many objec-
tions, and after much discussion, this point, together with the

STAT AT JAPAN. 30S

request not to be separated from his officers, were committed
to writing, and reserved for the governor's decision.

A» to the question of compliments, the Japanese required
that the ambassador, according to the customs of their country,
should kneel to the governor and to the representatives of the
emperor, and then bow the head, in the manner that h'ls been
mentioned, as a customary token of respect. Both these things
the ambassador refused, and declared that he would salute these
Great Men only after the European fashion, and in the same
manner that he would pay his respects to his own emperor.
With much difficulty, and after a good deal of discussion, this
point was conceded to him. The interpreters farther desired to
know in what position the ambassador would remain during the
audience. As, according to the oriental custom, the use of
chairs was unknown in Japan, and the people sat, or rather
knelt, upon the capets and mats, they hoped he would find it
convenient to comply with this f ishion, one which the greatest
princes in the country were bound to observe, and that he
would, like the Great Man from Jedo and the governor, kneel
upon soft stuffed straw mats. This the ambassador at first re-
fused, saying, that he would stand in the same manner as he
would do in the presence of his own emperor : on being repeat-
edly urged upon the subject, however, and on being assured that
this would be the most disrespectful thing he could possibly do,
he consented to lie down with his feet stretched out sideways.
The interpreters also intreated that the ambassador would not
think of wearing his sword in the Hall of Audience, assuring him
that notwithstanding the Great People, as he had seen, usually
wear two swords, they were always laid aside in that place.

S04

STAY AT JAPAN.

After many animadversions, the ambassador yielded this point,
assuring the interpreters that he did so only as a proof of his
great respect for the Emperor of Japan.

The persons selected to attend the ambassador to the audience
were Major Von Friderici, Counsellor Von Fosse, Captain
Foedoroff, Lieutenant KoschelefF, and myself. It was impos-
sible to make the Japanese consent that the guard of honour,
with their muskets, should attend : the utmost to be obtained
was, that a soldier should carry the Imperial Russian standard
behind the ambassador as a mark of distinction. In the even-
ing the interpreters came with the governor's answer, that the
cavaliers of the embassy should be allowed to remain in the
Rarae apartment with the ambassador; and two of them should
be admitted with him into the Hall of Audience.

On the fourth of April, at eight in the morning, the Banjos
and interpreters appeared. The Prince of Fisi's barge, deco-
rated with flags and hangings of silk and cotton, received the
ambassador and his train. A number of smaller boats, all
carrying the flags of Fisi, accompanied it.

Arrived at the stairs of Ochatto, we landed, and his excel-
lency was received by several Japanese of great distinction. A
numerous civil guard was in waiting here, bearing many insig-
nia of honour, and all were kneeling in rows one behind the
other. The houses, as well by the water-side as all round the
place, with the fortresses and guard-houses, were covered with
hangings, on which were the imperial arms and those of Fisi,
BQ that we could see nothing of the houses or the people, nor

;ii;.-' •!

^lir

♦ *

'■~X

scr

«TAT AT JAPAN. 305

could they see any thing of us : here and there only we saw a
head, urged on by irresistible curiosity, peeping from be-
hind the hangings. We were, however, in the main, unsej^n by
the inhabitants, v/hile our own eyes were equally restrained
ft-om making our observations upon them or their town. This
was not only the case at the landing-place, but in all the prin-
cipal streets through which we passed ; and if, in some of the
cross streets, the hangings did not cover the houses entirely,
their place was supplied by straw mats or trellis- work. The
reason of this, the interpreters told us, was, that the common
people might be kept off, since they were not worthy to see so
Great a Man as the ambassador face to face.

" When we had landed upon the great place of Ochatto our
procession was arranged in the following order. First marched
about forty persons of various ranks> among whom were several
Banjos, every one followed by an attendant: next followed
six Imperial soldiers without their muskets, but carrying
long staves : after them came the Norimon^ in which was the
ambassador : it was carried by four persons, and followed by
the standard-bearer carrying the Imperial Russian standard :
then came the cavaliers of the embassy, with a number of civil
magistrates and interpreters : aft' rwards a guard of sixteen or
twenty Japanese soldiers, with an officer on horseback : and
lastly, a great number of inferior officers of state and magis-
trates, with a long train of servants. .". ' ;'

:•*..

The procession passed through several streets, the names of
which were, taking them in the order that they came, Hokowra
Mass, Omuru Mass, Mottofacata Mass, Foru Mass, Honkose

R R

J06 STAY AT JAPAW. •

Mass, Bungo Mass, Satura INIass, Kaschijamma Mass, Jooscha
Mass : at the end of the latter is the governor's house. In all
the streets were guard-houses ornamented with garlands, some
smaller, some larger, some with a civil, some with a military
guard. The streets are broad and clean, with wide kennels on
each side to carry oflf the water, but are not all paved. Some
have a single row of small stones, others of .large square ones,
down the middle. Of the houses, as 1 have already said, we
could see little or nothing : they are chiefly of wood, only one
story high, and with a great deal of trelUs>work about the win*
dows and doors.

At the door of the governor's house we were all obliged, the
ambassador not exceptetl, to take off our shoes, that we might
not diity the straw mats or the finely varnished floors. This 'i%
an universal custom, and did not now appear surprising to us,
as we had been so long accustomed to sec the Banjos and
interpreters come into our room at Megasaki without their
shoes.

A vast number of officers were in attendance at the governor's
house, both within and without. We were carried through a
long and wi le corridor, the floor of which was highly var-
nished, into an apartment, which, like oar's at Megasaki, was
covered with fine straw matting: the walls were ornamented
with landscapes extremely well executed, but there was no
kind of household furniture, such as tables, chairs, benches, or
the like : all the wood-work about the doors and windows was
finely polished and varnished. The light came tlirough the
adjoining corridors. Glass windows are a thing not to be seen

STAY AT JAPAN.

307

in Japan ; thin paper stretched over tiie window-frames supplies
their place. In the midst of the apartment to which we were
now conducted, were implements for smoking, consisting of
pipes, tobacco-boxes, pans for lighted coal, and spitting vessels.
A large porcelain spitting vase stood in one corner of the room.
When we had finished smoking, tea was brought us without
sugar: the<cups were of porcelain, but massive, heavy, of ugly
forms, and. ill-painted ; the tea was, according to the general
judgment of our company, by no means good.

After a short half-hour the ambassador was introduced into
the Hall of Audience, whither he was accompanied by Major
Von Friderici and Lieutenant Koscheleif. The representative
of the Japanese Emperor, and the governor, were kneeling nearly
in the middle of the hall, and behind them were several persons
holding their swords crossed, high over their heads. Thus it
appeared that an untruth was told to the ambassador, when he
was assured that no swords were allowed at the audience. The
ambassador and the officers saluted the Great Men according
to the European fashion, after which they retreated about six
paces, and the interpreters knelt on each 3ide of them. All round
the hall were ranged some of the most distinguished persons oC
the country.

The first questions asked by the governor of the ambassador
were, Why, and for what purpose, he had come to Japan? Why
the Emperor of Russia had written to the Emperor of Japan,
since Lieutenant Laxmann had been explicitly infoimed that
this was forbidden, as contrary to the customs and laws of the
country, and as absolutely inconsistent with propriety ? Whe-

R B 2

308

STAY AT JAPAIf.

ther Lieutenant Laxmann had failed in makin(T this known,
and whether he was still alive? The governor then remarked,
that though in the permission that had been produced leave was
given for a trading vessel from Russia to come to Nangasaki
for mercantile purposes, no mention whatever was made of an
embassy. He concluded with asking the reason why no use had
been made of this permission till after such a lapse of years ?
and why, having been so long neglected, it was at last brought
forwards? The audience broke up about one o'clock, when
we returned to Megasaki in the same order that we had
come.

In the evening some interpreters came to tell the ambas-
sador that he might have a second audience the following day
if he wished it. The proposal was accepted ; but at half-past
seven in the morning it rr.ined so hard that we all thoui^ht the
audience must be postponed. About nine, however, the weather
began to clear, and some Opperbanjos, with the interpreters,
came to escort us to the governor's. We were ready to accom-
pany them ; but the ambassador thought it right to remark,
that his officers could not go on foot, as the day before, since
the streets would, in consequence of the heavy rain, be ex-
tremely dirty, and the governor's house was quite at the other
end of the town. To this the Opperbanjos at first made many
objections, but at length they dispatched some persons to the
governor, to lay the matter before him, and to desire that Nori-
mons might be prepared for the cavaliers of the embassy, while
we were going by water from Megasaki to Ochatto. At the
latter place, however, we were obliged to wait two hours on
board the barge before we were informed that the five Nori-

STAY AT JAPAN.

mons were ready for the officers. A very heavy shower had
fallen in the mean time, accompanied by thunder ; but the barge
was so well sheltered that we felt no inconvenience from it : we
very tranquilly partook of the tea and pipes which had been
prepared for us. .

The captain of the barge was extremely polite and courteous.
He wrote down the names of his guests, to keep them, he said,
as a lasting memorial in his family of the honour he had re-
ceived. We were not less observant of every thing around than
the Ja])anese were of us, and remarked, among other things, a
mnu who concealed himself behind some of his countrymen,
au'i Ml ined occupied in drawing. We endeavoured to inspire
him with confidence, and entreated him to shew us, without
fear or diffidence, the interesting objects on Avhich he was
employed. He ventured, upon this, to exhibit his works, and
we were not a little surprised at the talents displayed in them.
He had in a short time taken a sketch of every thing remark-
able which he saw about him ; as, for instance, the three-
cornered hat with feathers, worn by the ambassador, his star,
and the ribband of his order, with the different insignia about
the uniforms of the officers ; their sabres, their swords, and the
scabbards ; their buttons, scarfs, and keys of office as chamber-
lains, their watch-strings and seals. The celerity and address
with which he sketched, almost at a glance, so many objects
entirely new to him, was beyond the talents of most European
artists ; for they were done with Indian ink, on the fine Chinese
silk-paper, as it is called ; and what steadiness in the strokes*
what lightness of pencil must be required, to give the proper
expression in drawing with such materials ! The time that we

310 STAY AT JAPAN

yrere detained here must have been of the greatc§t value to t hi
man.

I.;

About twelve o'clock we were informed that the Norimons
weie all ready ; the procession, therefore, immediately began
to move forwards, precisely in the same order as the day before,
with the exception of the officers being in these vehicles
instead of going on foot. The place, the houses, the streets,
were also all in like manner hung with tapestries and matting.

Scarcely had we arrived at the governor's house before the
ambassador was invited to the audience, whither he went, ac-
companied by Counsellor Fosse and Captain Foederoff. He
soon returned to us, bringing in his hand a large roll of paper,
which had been given him with great ceremony, and with a
request that he would have it explained by the interpreters*
These latter held up the roll to their foreheads, boving their
heads with profound respect, and then opening it with a sort of
awe, said : '* This is an extraordinary instance of favour shewn
by the Emperor of Japan to the Russian ambassador : the paper
contains nothing but friendship ; but since it is written m the
Japanese language, we are commissioned to explain, orally, the
principal articles of its contents. In the sequel all will be iaith-
fuUy translated, and committed to writing, that it may be un-
derstood with the utmost accuracy. This will be no trifling or
easy task ; for the paper is full of deep thought, and written
with much attention and profound learning."

They then proceeded to make known to us the principal
articles, which were as follows. *'• In former times, ships of all

iTAT AT JAPAN. 311

nations were allowed to come freely to Japan, and the Japanese
were in the habit of visiting foreign countries with equal free-
dom. A hundred and fifty years ago, however, an emperor had
strictly enjoined his successors never to let the Japanese quit
the country, and only to permit the Chinese, the Dutch, and
the inhabitants of the Island Riukiu^ with the Coreans, to come
to Japan. For many years the trade with the latter had been
broken off, and only that with the Chinese and Dutch had been
kept up. Since that epoch several foreign nations had, at
various times, endeavoured to establish an intercourse of friend-
ship and commerce with Japan ; they were always, however,
repulsed, in consequence of the long-established prohibition,
and because it was held dangerous to form ties of friendship
with an unknown foreign power, which could not be founded on
any basis of equality."

The interpreters here made a pause, and then proceeded.
" Friendship,** tliey said, ** is like a chain, which, when des-
tined to some particular end, must consist of a determined
number of links. If one member, however, be particularly
strong, and the others disproportionally weak, the latter must
of necessity, by use, be soon broken. The chain of friendship
can never, therefore, be otherwise than disadvantageous to the
weak members included in it.

*' Thirteen years before," they continued, *' a Russian sliip,
with Lieutenant Laxniann, came to Japan, and a second was
now arrived with an ambassador from the great Russian Em-
peror. That the one should be received witii forbearance, and
the other with friendship, could be permitted, and tlie Emperor

.513

STAY AT JAPAIf ,

of Japan would gladly do whatever was in his power, con-
sistently with adhering to the laws ; he could and would, there-
fore, consider the arrival of the second Russian ship as a proof
of the great friendship borne him by the Emperor of Russia.

" This powerful monarch had sent him an ambassador with a
number of costly presents. If they were accepted, the Emperor
of Japan must, according to the customs of the country, which
are considered as laws, send an ambassador with presents of
equal value to the Emperor of Russia. But as there is a strict
prohibition against either the inhabitants or the ships quitting
the country, and Japan is besides so poor, that it is impos-
sible to return presents to any thing like an equivalent, it is
wholly out of the emperor's power to receive either the ambas-
sador or the presents.

" Japan has no great wants, and has therefore little occasion
for foreign productions : her few real wants, as well as those
that she has contracted by custom, are richly supplied by the
Dutch and Chinese, and luxuries are things she does not wish
to see introduced. It would besides be very difficult to esta-
blish an extenf.>ive trade, since that must, almost of necessity,
occasion frequent intercourse between the common people
and the foreijin sailors; and this is a thing strictly prohi-
bited."

The ambassador now made many protestations that he did
not come with any idea of receiving presents in return for what
he had brought ; and added, that if the Emperor would not
accept any presents, he must insist upon paying for the pro-

STAT AT JAPAN.

315

visions, and materials for repairing the ship, with which we
had been furnished. To this the Japanese answered, that these
were not presents : the provisions were necessary for the sup-
port of life, and the other was only assistance imparted in a case of
need : to give both freely was a duty of the government. At the
same time they informed us, that the emperor had issued a par-
ticular order to supply the ship with provisions for two months
of every sort that we deemed expedient or desired. He
had ordered besides two thousand sacks of salt of thirty pounds
each, and a hundred sacks of rice of a hundred and fifty pounds
each, with two thousand bundles of the finest Japanese raw silk,
to be given us ; the two former were for the crew, the latter for
the olhcers. These the ambassador refused, saying, that if the
emperor declined accepting his presents, he could not possibly
accept the articles offered.

While these discussions were going on, pipes had been
brought us, and tea without sugar, with some sugared things
as refreshments. The latter were upon separate sheets of paper
for each person, and consisted of a vaiiety of articles bound
together with a sugar- work, which had all the appearance of a
very pretty striped ribband.

After the interpreters had explained the emperor's pleasure,
they brought a small roll of paper, which was addressed by the
governor to the ambassador. Its principal contents were, to
recommend that our ship, immediately on leaving the harbour,
should stand out to sea to a considerable distance, as the coast,
upon account of the rocks and frequent storms, was extremely
dangerous; and to request, that if in future any Japanese

914

STAY AT JAPAN.

should be thrown upon the Russian coasts, they might be con-
signed to the Dutch, who would transport them to Batavia,
whence they might easily return to Japan.

Our audience being now at an end, about four in the after-
noon we were carried back in the Norimons to Ochatto, but
without any train, and thence proceeded by water to Megasaki.
The whole day was very cloudy, with some heavy showers of
rain, which only contributed to increase the gloom in our minds
created by our disappointment. As it was doubtful whether our
audience might not be protracted to a late hour in the evening,
preparations had been made for illuminating all the streets
through which we were to pass : at every four or five paces a
post of about two feet high was stuck into the ground, to which
was fastened a paper lantern.

On the sixth, the interpreters came to talk once more with
the ambassador, in the name of the governor, about the provi-
sions and the silk. They assured us that the governor could
not do any thing in the affair from his own judgment ; he must
ol)ey the emperor's orders ; and if the ambassador persisted in
refusing the thhij^s offered, he must send a courier to Jedo to
signify as much, which would prolong our stay at least two
months. In order, therefore, to obtain our liberty, his excel-
lency was obliged to accept the silk and provisions. The inter-
preters then asked whether it v/ould be agreeable to him to have
his audience for taking leave the next day, or whether he would
defer it for some days. The ambassador chose the first, that he
might quit Japan as soon as possible.

STAY AT JAPAN.

315

Towards noon, therefore, on the seventh of April, we passed
again through the streets of Nangasaki ; they were ornamented
as before with hangings, and beset with guards. As it rained
very hard, we were each provided with a new umbrella when
we arrived at Ochatto, and were carried in our Norimons.

The audience consisted in a reciprocal exchange of compli-
ments and friendly adieus. We were then conducted into an
adjoining apartment, where M'ere the two thousand bundles of
silk sent by the emperor. The interpretei-s assured us that
it would have been an extraordinary piece of ill-fortune to them
if the ambassador had not permitted the officers to accept this
present, since they would have been supposed to have ill-inter-
preted the emperor's orders, and this is a very heavy crime ;
they were therefore eloquent in their acknowledgments for the
ambassador's condescension.

Thus ended our extraordinary embassy to Japan, Nothing
now remained for us but to repack the presents destined for the
emperor as soon as possible, and return them on board the
ship, and to proceed with the utmost dispatch in all other pre-
parations for our departure. While we were proceeding in them,
we once more madt an attempt to gain permission for visiting the
Dutch at Desima, and one of the temples in or about Nanga-
saki, but we could not succeed in cither.

After very urgent and repeated solicitations, the ambassador
did at length obtain leave to make seven of the principal inter-
preters a trifling present in acknowledgment of the trouble we
Jiad given them ; and the governors at lengtb consented to

ua2

316

STAY AT JAPAN.

accept, as remembrances, the little pocket globe, with some
maps and sketches of the different nations that compose the
Russian empire.

The utmost exertions were now made to get the ship ready
for sailing with all pot^sible dispatch , and it was evident that the
Japanese were not a Utile ^iifo.'i shed, when on the sixteenth we
announced that evtry Ibi' wufj wady for our departure.

■'A_

» I <ai

DEPARTURE FROM JAPAN.

317.

CHAPTER XIV.

Departure from Japan. — Voyage from thence to Kamschalka. — Cape and
Straits of Sangaar. — Description of the West and North-West Coasts of
Matmai, or Jusso. — Stay in Aniwa Bay.— 'Description of the same, with
the Soulh-East Coast of Sachalin, or Tsc/ioka. — Departurefrom Tsckoka,
and Arrival in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul.

The presents we had brought with us being once more
returned on board the ship, the water casks being filled, the
provision of rice, salt, and biscuit allotted us by the emperor
being safely stowed, and the Japanese documents, with the
translation of them into Dutch, being remitted to the ambas-
sador, nothing remained but to bid adieu to our irksome
imprisonment at Megasaki. On the seventeenth, therefore,
we went on board. Several cf the interpreters and civil officers
appeared to be really affected at our departure, and to lament
sincerely that all hopes of an intercourse of trade being esta-
blished between their country and our's must be finally relin-
quished.

Our departure was without any pomp and ceremony. Prince
Tschingodsi had, some days before, entered upon his office of
guardian of the harbour of Nangasaki for the ensuing year, and
the embassy was conveyed to the ship by one of his barges of
state. No sooner were we arrived on board, than the anchor was
weighed, and we were towed by a hundred little boats to the

•..•*)..

SW VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA.

western side of the Papen mountain. We were accompanied
by the Banjos who were upon guard, and some interpreters ;
and the powder and arms which we had been constrained to
deliver up on our arrival were faithfully restored : the latter
were in a very rusty condition. The imperial guard-house was
now, as we passed it, but scantily decorated, and not with
new hangings ; nor did we see at our departure, as at our en-
trance, soldiers, with their muskets and standards, assembled
to do us honour. Even the barge of the Prince of Tschingodsi
was very inferior in splendor to that of the Prince of Fisi.

Early in the morning of the eighteenth we quitted the bay.
Our hasty departure must have given the Japanese no ill opi-
nion of the nautical talents of the Russians : for we learnt
from the interpreters the day before that they expected we
should, like the Dutch, linger in the bay for at least a week
before we were ready to proceed. They had therefore, un-
solicited by us, promised, in the name of the governor, that
we should be furnished daily with fresh provisions to the mo-
ment of our departure, even though it sihould not take place for
several weeks. The sails were set late in the evening of the
seventeenth ; and early in the morning, before the guard-boats,
which had never quitted us, could fairly see what was going on,
we were under sail. Many of them, when they perceived it,
strained every nerve to keep us company, but a brisk gale from
the south-south-east carried us on so fast, that they were soon
l§ft at a distance, and obliged to return.

i'ff

Captain Kruscnstern had for some time determined upon
returning to Kamschatka along the western coast of Japan^

'Mi^.

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA;

di»

through the sea of Corea, and passing the straits of Sangaar,
to examine the west and north-west shores of Matmai or Jesso,
with the eastern coast of Tschoka. By this course he would
be enabled to prosecute farther the discoveries made by the
unfortunate and ever to be lamented La Perouse. The voyage,
therefore, which I am about to describe, will be found well
wortliy of attention, since very few Europeans have at any
time navigated the sea of Corea ; and our excellent captain is
the first who ever thought of making the parts above-mentioned
a principal object of their scientific researches.

Geographers, and those who wish to obtain an accurate
knowledge of our globe, are consequently under considerable
obligations to him ; and we, who were the sharers in his voyage,
must for ever feel grateful in reflecting, that through his exer-
tions we were enabled to become acquainted with a part of the
world so rarely frequented. Although the second part of Cap-
tain Krusenstern's work on this subject is, at the very time I
am writing, already in tlie press, yet I trust that I shall not b«
condemned if I am here somewhat diffuse in my geographical
descriptions, or if I interweave with my own remarks the nau-
tical and astronomical questions he has so ably decided, refer-
ring my readers to his maps for tlie elucidation of my descrip-
tions.

On the eighteenth, in the evening, a brisk south-east wind
rose, and in the night, amidst cloudy and rainy weather, we
passed a strait, thirty-two miles over, between the little island
called Asses-ears and Cape Gotto. A strong wind and high sea
carried us rapidly forwards on the nineteenth in a north-north-

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 372-4503

SSO VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA.

easterly direction, and in the evening we were already in the
neighbourhood of the island of Tsus *, At day-break on the
twentieth we saw it to the north, and determined its northern-
most point to be in latitude 34" 40' 30" north, longitude
230° 30' 30" west. . •

Contrary winds, fog, and rain, prevented us following the
opposite coast of Japan, which we saw in the east towards
evening. VVe could still however catch a glimpse of it at inter-
vals on the twenty-second and twenty-third, at the following
degrees: latitude 35» lo*", 35" 45', 36° F, 36" 14^ north, longi-
tude 227° 40', 217° 10' west. On the thirtieth of April we
again approached the western coast of Japan, to seek for Cape
Sangaar, and ascertain its situation ; and the following day we
discovered a very high cape in latitude 39° 50', longitude 220' 16*

* This island is called by (he Japanese Tsus-simai by the Chinese, TuLma-tao^ that
is, island of the opposite standing horses. It has a very deep bay on the western side,
which begins at the (wo promontories of Kukuissaki and Ossaki, and runs very far into
the island. This br.y is joined to the sea on the eastern side of the island by meang of
a canal, which is culled the Ship^s Canal, and by vrhicli the island u divided in two. The
usual way taken by (he Japanese (o arrive at the harbour of Kokuyannoura, on (be
north side of the inland, is to sail from ihe harbour of Karazu, in the province of Fist,
to the island of Iki, which is thirteen Japanese miles or Ri, from whence to the bar.
bour aboTe.named on Tsus.sima is forty.cight miles. From ihence to the harbour of
Touscha («) in Corca, at the mouth of the river Fusan, is ngalii forty.i'ight miles. The
principal place in the island of Tsus-sima ia at the 8outh.east point, and is called Jata,
very near to which is the spacious and commodlouB harbour of Ooura ; bo(h are at (he
foot of a pretty high hill. The southernmost promontory of Tsui.sima is called Ooi»
«aki, and the northernmost Toyos.saki : the latter lies between the itlands uf Kaito and
OonoKhetOt— Juuus Vom Klapbotu.

(a) The Ttboian of Captain Kmicnttn't map.

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCIIATKA. 32 1

To thi« Captain Krusenstern gave the naiiup of Promontory of
the Russians*. • ■ ■

On the second of May, the weather being very clear, we
were pretty near the land, so that we could plainly distin-
guish a town in latitude 40" 50' north, longitude 219° 54'
west ; w^ could also see several little boats lying at anchor.
A large bay is here formed round a flat and sandy shore,
which is bounded by two high hills, forming very prominent
land-marks. The town seemed tolerably large, and the coun-
try round, to judge by the colour of the ploughed lands, by
the meadows, and by the woods, must be both fertile and
beautiful. The harbour, if there be one here, may very pro-
bably be formed by the mouth of a river, and may be pre-
sumed useful to vessels, which,, like those of Japan, do not
require any great depth of water. At three miles from the
shore the water was no more than twenty-five fathom deep.
In the back ground of the fine landscape before us high
mountains reared their snow-clad summits. We saw a number

* This great peninsula is called by tho Japanese Votoko-issikas-simi ; that is, th«
Stages Island ; the hill upon it has the name of Joo.moto, and the south-western pro*
montorjr that of Nankaba or Komo (a). On the second of May the ship was opposite
to the plain and forest at the issue of the Rossiro>gaw», which in some Japanese maps
is called RoJai. The snowy mountains which were seen from this spot separate the pro.
vinces of Dcwa and Ouschin, and have no particular name. On the western side of the
prorinceof Ooschin, which the ship passed on the third of May, are the two striking
promontories of Nangasaki and Toriis.saki, the latter being the northernmost. Behind
these is a high mountain called Twaki. jama ; a,nd eastward from the latter is the striking
town of Jumenai, on a river which flows into the sea almost at the north-west point of
Japan. — Julius Von Klaprotu.

(a) The latter it called in Captain Kruienitero's map the Prrman^orjf of tfit fivniani,

T T

3SS

YOYAGE PROM JAPAN TO KAMSCBATKA.

of whales, and daily collected sea-weed of various kinds, par-
ticularly in the neighbourhood of the land.

•Towards evening four boats, each carrying fifteen or twenty
liien, came towards us ; but though we invited them in a very
friendly manner, and in the Japanese language, to come on
board, they would not venture. The construction of these
boats, and the form of the oars, as well as the manner of row-
ing, was so different from what we had seen at Nangasaki, that
we should scarcely have supposed them Japanese.

The next morning the wind was very favourable, and we ran
along the coast at the rate of eight knots an hour. We saw se-
veral creeks and bays, and at length in the north perceived a
high point of land projecting very far into the sea in latitude
40° S7' 40' north, longitude 220° 11' 30" west; to this was given
the name of Cape Gamaley. A very high mountain, covered
with snow, not far from the cape, in latitude 40° 40' 40", longi-
tude 219° 49', was named Peak Tilesius. In tlie afternoon, after
much expectation, we at length came in sight of Cape Sangaar.
Thiji cape, with another now lying directly in the north, and
which is the southernmost point of Jesso, form the entrance to
the straits of Sangaar. To the latter was given the name of
Cape Nadeschda after our ship. Cape Sangaar lies in latitude
41" 16' 30" north, longitude 219" 46' west ; Cape Nadeschda in
latitude 41° 25' 10", longitude 219° 59' 30*. The distance be-
tween the two capes is eighteen miles.

Later in the evening we approached the south-western coast
of the island of Jesso, and remarked, in a very open insecure

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA. 323

bay, the considerable town of Matzumai *. We could distin-
guish the houses and temples very clearly with the assistance of
our glasses ; it lies in latitude 41° 32', longitude 219' 56'. Some-
what to the south-west of this town are two islands, the west-
ernmost and largest of which is called Oos-sima ; tlie other has
the name of Kos-sima, or the Little Island ; the former is in
latitude 41" 31' 30", longitude 220" 40' 45", the latter in latitude
41° 21' 30", longitude 220° 14". They are the never-to-be-mis-
taken marks of the entrance of the straits of Sangaar.

The land of Jesso is here pretty high, and most of the
mountains about were covered with snow : they have a volcanic
appearance, are naked and barren, and are full of rugged irre-
gular clefts. It is very probable that in the interior of the coun-
try, in parts sheUcred from cold and strong winds, there may be
pleasant and fertile vallies ; but about the town of Matzumai
the country is so desert and sandy, that it would have been

* Matzumai is the name of the principal town upon the island of Jesao ; it signifies
the Tozen of Firs. The island itself is never called Matmai, but by the Japanese Jesso,
and in the Chinese language Chia.y, which signifies crabs (a). The harbour of M ateu.
mai is inconvenient and insecure even for Japanese vesaels. Before it lies the little island
of Besaite ; this is considered as holy ground by the Japanese, for which reason they
have built a temple upon it. To the soutI)>east of the town lies Ssirakamis-saki, th«
most southern promontory of the island ; and eastward of that are two convenient har.«
bours for small ships. Farther east is the harbour of Chakotade, near which are several
Japanese farms ; and some way farther within the land is the habitation of the Knrillaa
interpreter. Along the whole south-west side of the island are a gtcAt number of Fuci,
particularly that called by the Japanese KombiCy and which (hpy make use of as food.— r
Juuus VoN Klaprotu.

(u) Chia are a isrt at mall lea-craDs, called io GennaD Carjicefen, la Spairiih CtnttlfanUt ■>' la
Euglisb Shrimpi.

T T 2

324

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA.

difficult to conceive how the numerous population could find
wherewithal to sustain their existence, if we had not previously
learnt at Nangasaki that the whale-fishery was the principal
support not only of the whole island of Jesso, but of Nipons
to the north of it. We observed many little vessels under
sail in the bay, and many more at anchor before the town,
without being able to determine where the harbour could be.

Early in the morning of the fourth we still saw the straits of
Sangaar, though from the force of the current we had been car-
ried in the night to some distance from them. We directed our
course to Oos-sima, the westernmost of the two small islands,
which is about six miles in circumference, and steered north-
wards between that and Kos-sima through a channel about
twenty miles over. Both islands are steep, rugged, and not ha-
bitable, appearing to be of vplcanic origin. Towards noon we
perceived a third island, Okosiri, which is much flatter than
the others : it lies westward of Jesso, and to the north of Oos-
sima, in latitude 42° 9', longitude 220" 30'. It is considerably
larger than either of the others, being eleven miles long and
five broad : at the south-western end it rises gently above the
sea. It has a pleasant and fertile appearance, being well co-
vered with wood, but appears notwithstanding to be uninhabited.
We did not perceive boats, houses, or smoke, along any part of
the coast.

After we had sailed round this island, early in the morning
of the fifth we approached the island of Matmai, on which we
discovered in the fore-ground a thick smoke ascending from a
valley behind a hill, and far back in the perspective a chain of

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA.

St5

mountains covered with snow. A high promontory in the neigh-
bourhood, in latitude 42° 38*, longitude 219" 69' was called by
us Cape Kutusoff *. It was almost a dead calm, and the wea-
ther being very fine, we had an opportunity of comparing the
face of nature here at this time of the year with what is to be
seen at the same time in Europe. There every thing is in flower,
and excellent fruits of various kinds are now to be found :
here even the lowest mountains and the fields were covered
with snow.

On the sixth we came in sight of another lofty promon-
tory, which we called Cape Novosilzoif; behind it was a very
deep bay, which appearrd almost as if it would afford a passage
through it f . Under the idea of this possibility, and with high-
raised expectation, we began to examine it. On the southern
shore we saw a volcano sending up vast columns of smoke, and
several other hills with rounded summits : it appeared singular
that the smoke was ascending from a very inconsiderable hill.

* This proraontory is called in Japanese Chokossinossaki. On the south side of it
arc the last Japanese habitations on the west side of the island ; northwards from thence
the farms of the natircs, Jinu^ begin. Still farther north lies the promontory to which
Captain Krusenstera gave the name of Cape NoTOsilzoff, but which is here called Ko.
moinossaki.

+ According to the Japanese maps there is no passage through here; but at the end
of the bay is a large river, which comes from a lake called Issikari, four Japanese miles
or Ri in circumference. This lake is formed by the junction of several small rivers. It
is separated from two other lakes by a low ridge of hills, and these lakes have a com.
munication with the sea on the eastern sido of the island. South of this bay is 4hc high
Peak Ssiribetsu, at the foot of which rises » little river which falls into the sea north of
Cape Chokossinossaki. To the north.west of this is another peak collud Yuubon, whiih
lies on the eastern i;ide of the island. — Jti.ivs Von KtiPROTic.

326

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCIIATKA.

v'hile a high peak close by gave no indication of being a volcano.
To the highest and most considerable of these hills the name of
Peak RuraofFski was given : it lies in latitude 42" 50' l.V north,
longitude 2 IS" 48'" 30" west. We could not proceed far into
the bay, but were obliged, on account of the adverse south-
winds, to tack about there the whole day.

In the morning of the seventh a favourable south-west wind
rose, which enabled us to penetrate farther iuto the bay ; but it
was soon obvious that the hope of a passage through must be
abandoned. The land kept constantly approaching nearer and
nearer to the south-east, the depth of water decreased at every
sounding, and its saltness was sensibly diminished: nothing
therefore remained but to return, deceived in our expectations.
We now steered towards the northern promontory which borders
this gulf: to this was given the name of CapeMalespina : it lies
in latitude 45" 42' 15', longitude Sfl8» 41' 30*.

On the eighth, in the forenoon, we observed two small islands*,
Teurire and Janikeseri, in the north-east, about ten miles from
the island of Matniai or Jesso: theone lies in latitude 44* 27' 45",
longitude 218° 43' 15*, the other in latitude 44" 88' 45",
longitude 218" 37' 45*. We continued to follow the coast of
Jesso at a distance till the tenth of May, when we reached its

* I'hc westernmost of these islands is called, in the language of the country, Tcu.
iDUs.siri, and the other Ankcs-siri. Thoy are, according to the Japanese maps, ten
miles, or fit, asunder. Some of the Japanese maps call the first island Feurty perhaps
this is the Japanese name for it. Eastward of these islands, upon the island of Jcsto, is
a high peak callud YuUbetiiu. — Julius Von Klapkotii.

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA. 327

north-western point : here we saw a high peak, which we after-
wards recognized to be the Peak De Langle •, mentioned by La
Perouse as on the north-west coast of Matmai. This round-
headed hill, with its snowy head, which appears so remarkable
at a distance, now lay directly before us. It is not, as La Pe-
rouse believed, upon the island of Matmai, but forms a separate
island of itself.

The wind being extremely favourable, before noon pn the
eleventh we reached the most north-western point, called by the
inhabitants Soya, but which Captain Krusenstern named Cape
Romanzoff: it lies in latitude 45" 23^ 50* north, longitude
218° 23' 30" west. Scarcely had we perceived that it was
inhabited, before a little boat came out from the land and
approached us. It contained four pei'sons, who had coarse
lank hair upon their heads, and long thick beards, with dirty
white garments. Though they rowed directly up to the
ship, they would not come on board upon our invitation,
but after having contemplated us awhile, row> '1 back again to
the shore. Towards ten o'clock we discovert I behind Cape
Romanzoff a large bay open to the north : here we cast an-
chor in ten fathom water, about two miles from the shore. A
thick fog had a short time before shut out the Peak and the

* Peak dc Langle is called by the iobabitants of Jcsso Riis-siri : it is twenty miles,
or Ri, distant from Tcumus-slri, Opposite to Peak Oe Langle, on the western side of
Jesso, is the high peak Akaouno. North of Peak De Langle lies the island of Ncbii.
nus.siri, or Rifunos>siri ; and north.west of it another island called Issigorotan, or Js<:.
chorotan ; and to these follow the south-western point of the island of Tschoka. Thi»
point is called by the inhabitants of Jesso, Ssari, and the south-east point is called Kara.
futo : the latter is considered by them as a separata island. — Julius Yon Klafuotu.

328

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCIIAXKA.

iieiglibouring country from our view. It was not loug before
several boats, like the first, came to us. Some of tlic people,
with our consent, immediately came on board. They saluted
us by rubbing the palms of their hands together, and then rais-
ing the hand slowly several times towards heaven ; after M'hich
they stroked their beards from the chin to the bfeast, and then
threw themselves on their knees exactly in the Japanese fashion,
repeating a compliment in like manner. The expression of
their countenances was friendly and benevolent : they had tole-
rably large eyes, rather high cheek-bones, a somewhat broad
and compressed nose, and among most the cheeks and chin were
overgrown with long thick black beards. They had a language
of their own, but understood some Japanese words, and as far
as we could comprehend them, seemed to disavow being Japa-
nese, or belonging to Japan. They called themselves A'ino or
A'imt*.

When we asked them about Matmai, they pointed towards
the south ; hence we concluded that they did not give this name
to the whole island, only to the town of Matmai or Matzumai.
They drank the brandy offered them without any hesitation.

* Aiiio, or A'inu, signifies, in the language of all the people who belong to the Kuri.
)ian tribes, 3/an, and is the name they give themselves. The Kurilians at Kamschatka call
themselves Ainu ; those on the Kurilian islands call themselves Ainuh ; and those at Jcsso
and Tschoka Aino; those in the neighbourhood of the river Amur sayAinuh. According
to my invcsiigations as a linguist, the Kurilian tribes seem to be spread from the southern,
most point of Kamschatka to Japan, over all this range of islands, and the whole coast
of what is falsely called Chinese Tartary below the Amur, to the place where the Ussuri.
Uka falls into the sea. The Giljaki of the Russian maps, the Yuibi and Gedsheum of the
Chinese, belong to these tribes ; the country therefore is improperly called Tungusi.
The Kurilians inhabiting the continent call theingehes and their language Fiatta. —
Julius Von Klapuotu,

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA. * JtO

and without making a wry face, emptying tiie last drop into
the palms of their hands, which they then raised towards hea-
ven, and again stroked their long beards. When they had been
presented witii some tritles, such as knives, nails, looking-
glasses, &c. they returned to their boats, and made signs to
us to come and visit them on shore. A boat with a party
accordingly put off from the ship ; but as the amateurs of a
lan<l party were very numerous, and all could not go, I waa
obliged for once to control my inclinations, and remain on
board. Scarcely had the boats, by which we had been visited,
landed on the eastern shore of the bay, when another very large
boat, not much unlike the Japanese ones, came out from the
western side, and made towards our ship. In fact, there were
four Japanese on board, who, to judge by their external appear-
ance, were of the very lowest class of the people, probably
fishermen. *

They were extremely free and sociable in their behaviour,
inquiring who we were, and telling us the names of the islands
and country round. Shortly after came a better dressed Japa-
nese in another boat : he was no less frank in his intercourse
with us ; and after what we had experienced at Nangasaki, this
surprised us very much. lie gave us to understand that he was
a merchant, and offered us several Japanese things for sale, or
rather for barter ; among them were lackered wooden drinking
cups, razors, tobacco-pipes, books with wooden cute, which the
Japanese are forbidden, on pain of death, to sell to strangers,
but which are tolerably well known in Europe under the name
of Chinese bibles.

u u

VOYAGE PROM JAPAN TO RAMSCIIATKA.

On the following morning I went on shore with another
party. The surf was so strong upon the Hat sandy beach, that
our boat could not get over it, and an Ainu, whose habitation
lay very near, came out with his little boat, into which we re-
moved, and were landed in safety. Our conductor then led us
to his miserable hut : it was constructed with trunks of trees as
the main supports, the walls and roof being covered with straw.
Behind the. house, and before the entrance of it, were a number
of poles and trees decorated with a sort of garlands, probably
with some religious view. The inside of the hut consisted of
only one apartment ; in the middle of it was a fire, round which
the whole family, consisting of an old woman, a young girl, and
several men, were sitting. Over the fire hung an iron kettle,
in which they were dressing fish.

I soon quitted this company to take a walk along the shore.
Here I found various sorts of sea-weed, as the Fucus sacchari-
trnsy Fucus perforatus, Fucus graminoides, and Fucus siliquosus,
with many others wholly unknown to me. Among the remains
of different sorts of shells I found those of the Nautilus papijra-
ecus. I also found several large nuts, which resembled very
much our Italian nut, Nux juglans : where they grew, however,
or how they came there, or indeed what claim they had properly
to be called nuts, I could not discover. The principal stone on
the shore was a hardened argile, into which the Pholasses had
penetrated in great abundance. The plants were very back-
ward in their growth. I saw the Caltha paiustris, Angelica of se-
veral sorts, Fumaria, Equisetum, and Allium. A bog, in which
grew a reed of no great strength or size, stretched along the
shore to the foot of the nearest hill. This hill is steep, but

TOYAGU I'ROM JAPAN 10 RAMSCHATRA.

931

not very \w^h. Patilu ,s of snow were lyiuj^ about in different
parts. Firs ami birches were tlie principal trees that fell under
my observation. The shore was in many places intersected by
crystal streams, on the banks of which the habitations were
placed .

I saw every where a great many dogs, which seemed of
the same breed with tiiose of Kamschatka, only much smaller.
I afterwards learnt that here, as well as there, they are made
use of as draught animals, and harnessed in the winter to
sledges. Bears were to be seen, domesticated, about almost al^
the houses : they are taken when young, fed carefully, and at
length, when arrived at a proper age, killed and eaten as
dainties. Among the furs worn by these people, I observed a
small silver-grey skin of an animal wholly unknown to me. The
inhabitants make their winter clothing of these as well as of bear
and dog skins. During my absence from the ship, some sea-
otter skins had been carried thither for sale ; it is therefore to be
presumed that this animal is common here as well as at the
Kurile islands.

The habitations do not lie at any great distance from each
other : I counted seven large ones in the space of not more than
a German mile, each of which seemed to have from fifteen to
twenty grown men belonging to it. Most of the women ran
away when I came near a house ; a few only stayed, concealing
themselves behind their husbands, for the purpose, as it appear-
ed, of gaping at me. The men were little, at the utmost not
more than five feet and a half in height, but strong built and
muscular ; the women were still smaller, with coarse black

u V 3

$3% VOYAGE FROM JAFAN TO KAM8CHATKA.

lank hair hanging from their heads, and bluish lips. I could
not discover whether this was their natural colour, Mhether
it was produced by tattooing, or was the effect of some kind
of tint given them. Some of our party insisted upon it that
they had seen women with their arms tattooed.

At Soya, the most western point of land, some Japanese are
established under a civil officer. They are here by order of the
Japanese government to watch the coast ; and the officer, with
two sabres at his side, came in virtue of his office on board our
ship to inquire who we were, and with what views we were
come. At first he would not believe that we were Russians,
because we had short unpowdered hair ; whereas the Russian*
who came with Lieutenant Laxnmnn, whom he had known,
wore their hair dressed and jK)wdered.

He entreated, or rather commanded us, as soon as the wea-
ther was clear, to proceed on our route, since in case we did
not, he must be under the necessity of sending information
of our arrival to the government, and this migjit occasion us
much embarrassment. He Avould not accept the smallest
present, nor would he even drink a glass of the Japanese wine
made from rice, called Saki, which wc had brought with us from
Nangasaki. He appeared to be a sensible man, and, as far as
we could judge, well-informed ; he shewed a good deal of geo-
graphical knowledge, and gave Captain Krusenstern some use-
ful information respecting the names and situations of the neigh-
bouring islands. He knew the name and situation of Kams-
chatka, and talked about Ochotsk and America.

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA. 333

Tschoka, or Sachalin*, he called a Tartarian island ; and
assured us that it was different from Karafuto, an island
separated only by a narrow strait from the north of Jesso.
Karafuto, he said, was only inhabited in the southern part,
and that by some Japanese. From him Ave learnt that the
part of Jesso inhabited by the Japanese, that is the southern
part, is alone properly called Matmai, or Matzumai ; per-
haps he even meant to confine that name to the town. The
proper name of the island, he said, is Jesso, and the mha-
bitants are called Ainu. It is very probable that in ancient
times Jesso was the name given to the whole island; but since
the Japanese have driven the Ainu to the north, and pos-
sessed themselves completely of the southern part of the
island, the northern part only has retained its original appella-
tion.

During my excursion, I came to the habitation of the Japanese
merchant, as he called himself, who had visited us the day before.
All about it were several hundred thousand herrings lumg up to
be dried. According to what he told us, he brings hither every
year lackered wooden eating and drinking vessels, tobacco and
tobacco-pipes, rice, kitchen utensils, coarse cotton cloth, and

* It is Tcry improper to call this island Sachalin, since the inhabitants cull UTsihoka.
The Mandschus, not knowing its name, might very probably call it Saglialin.uitn'gu.
choda, that is, the island with the black mouth, becanse it lies opposite the month of the
Amur, n'hich is calk-d by them Saglialin.ula, or tha black river. Saghalin signiiics
black, and is not the name of the island : people are wrong in circulating such errors.
This island is not under the dominion of the Mandschuriau Chinese, as was once sup.
posed, for in the great Chinese government gsographical work called Fai.zinn-y-lunn.
(Itchi, wlijch appeared under Kin.hsnm^ it is entirely omitted.— J Lfcus Vo.n Klapuoti!.

33i

TOYAGR PROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA .

other things wanted by the Ainu, for which he is amply paid
in dried fish and furs. He assured me also that he visited most
of the near and distant islands, even the Kurilian islands Urup
and Iturup. By all that fell under my observation, it appears
as if the Japanese took but little care of the Ainu, for they
are very ill clothed, and possess scarcely any even of the most
necessary kitchen utensils. Some knives, a kettle, tobacco
and pipes, fishing nets, a little rice, and some coarse cotton
cloth, appear to constitute the whole of their possessions.

They shoot wild animals with poisoned arrows. The poison
they use for this purpose is the thick sap of some plant, pro-
bably of a species of aconite which grows here in abundance.
It is so subtle in its nature, that in a few minutes after the
animal is wounded the blood rushes out of the mouth, nose,
and ears. In this way they kill bears, wolves, foxes, sea-otters>
&c. &c.

Although the Japanese visit the northern parts of Jesso, the
southern of Tschoka, Karafuto, and the southern Kurile islands,
and maintain a very close union with the Ainu, the latter seem
as little as any other nation to venture upon visiting any of the
Japanesie possessions. They are even precluded all intercourse
with the principal town of their own country, Matmai, or Mat-
zumai. The climate is much colder here than in many other
countries in the same latitude. At this advanced season the
plants were but just beginning to shoot, and very few firs were
in blossom : the snow lay in many places at the foot of the hills,
and the tops of them were covered with it. Oil the twelfth of

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA.

S35

May, in the mornings Reaumur's thermometer was only two
degrees above the freezing point, and at noon only six. ^ .<

On the thirteenth, at daybreak, we weighed anchor. The
weather had become clear, and we could see all the points and
islands around very plainly. Our principal attention was di-
rected to the island of Karafuto, as it is called in the Japanese
maps, and which we could see in the horizon. We had scarcely
quitted our anchoring- place, when all doubts as to our situa-
tion were cleared up ; it was evident, both from the testi-
monies of the unfortunate La Perouse, and from our own ob-
servations, that the island of Karafuto, now seen in the north,
was. one and the same with Tschoka or Sachalin. What had
been at first only presumption, was towards noon, when we
observed the situation of Cape Crillon, and compared it with
that of the rock La Dangereuse^ reduced to a certainty.

The woather was fine, and the wind brisk, so that we soon
approached Cape Crillon ; but as night closed in we rather
bore away from it again, in order to avoid the formidable
rock La Dangereuse. It was now about five sea miles to the
north, and we observed a capacious passage between that and
the cape : on the morning of the fourteenth we indeed saw a
Japanese vessel come through this passage. The rock lies in
latitude 45° 47' 15" north, longitude 217° 51* 15" west.

As we approached this rock the next morning, we heard
a very loud and continued noise, which we concluded at first
to be the breakers dashing against it ; but we afterwards, by the
assistance of our glasses, discovered an innumerable quantity

Jd6 VOTAOE FROM #APAN TO KAMSCHATKA.

of sea-lions, sea-dogs, and sea-calves, Phoca, from which we
had no doubt it proceeded. At that distance it was impossible
to determine the species of any of these animals. Some of them
lay upon the rock, others had their heads only raised just above
the water, making a most frightful howling.

Cape Crillon, which lies in latitude 45" 54* 15', longitude
217" 17*^ 21"*, was now to the west of our course, while at a
mnch greater distance in the eastern horizon we could discern
Cape Aniwa, the south-eastern point of the island of Tschoka.
At first we thought this cape appeared a separate island, since
the northern part of the land is much lower than the southern,
ccmsequently was not so soon seen by us. The wind had
somewhat freshened, so that we ran at the rate of seven or eight
knots an hour towards the Gulf of Aniwa.

Towards four in the afternoon we could at length discern the
low land, by which the two promontories that form tiie gulf are
united, and towards evening we cast anchor in nine fathom water
in the north-western part of the gulf, in the creek called by the
Dutch Salmon Bay. Not fa from us lay a one-masted Japa-
nese vessel, and upon the land we saw several buildings entirely
in the Japanese taste. The Japanese ship which we saw early in
the morning pass by Cape Crillon had anchored in a little creek
upon the eastern promontory .

Late in the evening I learnt that Lieutenant Ratmanoff pro-

* The Translator has Tcntured here to mark the longitude as above. In the original
it stands 217° 71' 21'. As the 71' must be a mistake, the probability is that it will be
yrrected by transposing the figures.

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA. SS7

posed going on shore the next morning by four o'clock, in
hopes of being able, if possible, to throw the nets. I begged,
therefore, to be permitted to accompany him ; and accordingly,
on the fifteenth, nine of us set off in a boat upon our expedition.
We steered towards the north and north-east part of the bay, in
hopes of finding a river, but when we were got several miles from
the ship, the surf was still so great ail along^ the shore, that it
was impossible to land ; our boat had indeed, in making the
attempt, been in the utmost danger of being dashed to pieces.

We followed the whole northern, and a great part of the
north-eastern coast, at the distance of about a sea mile from
the shore, and found in general from two to three fathom
and a half of water. On the northern coast we passed the
mouth of a river, but on account of the surf could not enter
it. We had constantly about us a great number of whales,
sea-mews, ravens, and wild ducks. We were already eight
sea-miles from our ship, and had reached the northern part
of Cape Aniwa, when, to our great joy, we arrived at a spot
which we could wade through without any danger. And now,
since we had gone so far, we resolved to visit the habitation
before which we had seen the Japanese vessel at anchor the pre-
ceding day. Our sailors were ordered, therefore, to continue
their course with the boat along the coast till they came to this
spot.

The shore was very flat, but not far from it the hills rose so
steep that they were wholly inaccessible. In our way we passed a
number of habitations. The huts were very poor, and scattered
about at no great distance. Probably, however, these are only

X X

S38 VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMf^HATKA.

summer residences of the fishermen, since most of the people
we saw were full-grown labouring men:' there were very few
women and children. This supposition seemed much strength-
ened by perceiving a number of foot-paths, which led through
the plain, and over the nearest hills, into the interior of the coun-
try. The few women to be seen were occupied with cutting up
and cleaning the fish preparatory to their being dried ; in doing
this we observed that the entrails were thrown away, but the
roes were preserved and cured. The people were all sitting out
in the open air, only sheltered on the side towards the wind by
straw mats fixed to poles stuck into the ground. Their clothing,
like that of the people of Jesso, was a long full gown open in
Iront, a sort of night-gown. ' < .

As we passed their habitations, or the places where they were
at work, the men generally rose up, and coming some steps to-
wards us, saluted us with a friendly half-smiling mien in the
mantier of the Ainu of Jesso : the women, however, remained
sitting behind their straw mats. Although our appearance
raust have l)een wholly strange to them, their manner was
such that they did not appear at all struck, but as if the sight
was quite familiar to their eyes. Someofthe men, apparently out
of courtesy, accompanied us a few paces, and then left us, so that
we pursued our way unmolested by their curiosity. After walk-
ing about a German mile, we arrived at the spot to which our
course was directed, where the Japanese vessels were at anchor.
There was much variety in the walk, Mid we were not fatigued
with it, as we found all along the coast a very good foot-path,
which we followed. The soil of the wooded hills seemed for
the most part argillaceous. Here and there pleasant vallie*

VOYAOB FROM JAPA^ TO KAMSCHATtiU SSI

Opened upon us, watered by little streams, which ran into the
"bay; over three of the principal of these were laid broad
planks, instead of bridges, for the convenience of foot-pas-
cengers.

As we approached the habitations, we saw two Japanese
officers dressed in silk, and each with two sabres, coming
towards us. They saluted us with a fiiendly demeanour, and
then sat down in the open air, upon a straw mat which
was spread for the purpose. Without asking us to sit, they
began questioning us officially who we were, and why we and
the ship had come thither. The answers to these questions
being written down, they rose up ?nd invited us to take some
refreshment in their habitations close by. Such an invitation
was the more agreeable to us as it was now near noon, and
from four in the morning, when we sat out on our expedition, wa
had not taken any thing.

This Japanese hamlet consisted of six large and several
smaller houses, round a sort of court or open place, so that
the whole was not very unlike an European farm. Most of
the buildings served as a sort of warehouses. We were intrcv*
duced into the first house: it was built of wood, one story
high, and after the Japanese fashion, that is, with a gallery aud
trellis, and instead of windows, paper over a frame-work.

The first room was large, and surrounded with a &ort of littlf
chambers of divLsiana open to it: in these ky merchandise
of various kiiMls. Next to this was a spacious ftpartixient raised
one step. abcKve iK vbichi seened to seive a» a bitchea. hx tb«

X x2

3(0

TOTAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA .

midst was a fire, and near it were spread some fine straw mats,
on which we were invited to sit down. On our apologizing
that we should dirty the mats with our boots, in which we
had been walking so long, the upper mats Mxre taken away,
and we were desired to sit upon those underneath : they were
very clean, though not so fine. Since, however, we were little
accustomed to the oriental mode of sitting, and seated our-
selves rather awkwardly, with our legs stretched out sideways,
our host ordered some little barrels to be brought, and laying
a plank over them, made us a bench, on which we sat very
commodiously after our own fashion. We were then each pre-
sented with a square wooden trencher, upon which was a
small lackered plate full of excellent cooked rice, with
another sort of saucer, in which was cooked fish : we were
also furnished with two little wooden sticks, such as they
themselves use instead of forks. Thus, after having been six
months at Japan, we now, for the first time, upon the Island
of Tschoka, eat our dinner with a Japanese family.

While we remained here our hosts endeavoured to obtain
information from us upon several subjects, ami we were not
sparing of our questions to them. One of the Japanese oflficers
said he had lived six years, the other said he had lived eight
upon the island: both called it Karafuto. They considered it
as about half the size of Jesso ; but from what they said, we
inferred that the northern part was entirely unknown to them.
They seemed to have very little knowledge of Russia, though
they talked a good deal about Kodai and Lieutenant Laxmann :
they did not appear to be acquainted even with the name of
Kamschatka. As we had our fowling-pieces with us, they

VOYAGE FROM JaFAN TO KAMSCRATKA. 34I

begged permission to examine one, and were in great astonish«
ment at the lock, which was quite new to them. It has been
mentioned before that the Japanese fire their guns with lighted
matches. They inquired with evident apprehension whether
the piece was loaded, and seemed so much afraid of gun-
powder that they would not even burn some grains of it which
had shaken out at the touch-hole. I am almost convinced that
they have no other arms for the defence of their settlement
than, perhaps, some bows and arrows. The original inha-
bitants of this island are also called Ainu : they are evidently
of the same race with the natives of Jesso and the Kurile
islands.

I counted two-and-tw€nty Japanese, who observed us and
all our movements with the utmost curiosity. As I am of
opinion that several of tliem were only sailors who had come with
the ships now at anchor, whose stay was, therefore, confined to
some days, or perhaps weeks, it is probable that at another
time, especially in winter, very few Japanese would be found
here. The first large apartment was filled with a great many
of the natives, who were all upon their knees in token of sub-
mission : by this it should appear that they are kept in very
strict obedience by the unarmed Japanese, disproportionate,
beyond all conception, as they are in their numbers. Scarcely
had these poor creatures remained a quarter of an hour thus
seeking to satisfy their curiosity, when they were again driven
away to their work. They were employed in cutting up,
cleaning, and salting the fish for drying, in hanging up the fresh
ones, and turning those that were already partially dried.
Among some hundred of the Ainu that we saw, one or twO'

9i8 VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA.

only had a good deal of coarse hair growing about their bodiei,
as may, perhaps, occasionally happen among Europeans ; but
that this whole race of men are covered all over with h»ir, is
one of the poetical flouriahes in which travellers will ijK>m#*
times indulge themselves.

Kear the hamlet, on a little hill, stands a Japanese temple,
which we were told we might visit, on the condition of first
taking off our boots. This we should gladly have done if w«>
had not been afraid that it would take up too much time. It
w^s already four o'clock in the afternoon,- and our boat with the
sailv>rs, which we had long expected, was not yet even in sight.
The wind and tide were both against them, and Lieutenant
l^j^tmanoff was under considerable anxiety lest they should
hav<^ met with some accident; we therefore agreed to go in
search of them without farther delay. So taking leave of ouc
hosts, with many acknowledgments for their hospitality, we
returned along the shore, and i,n half £.n hour m^t with them.

Though the wind was brisk, and not favourable, we sailed
directly across the bay to ouf &l?,ip, then ^t the distancf of four-
teen miles from us. Scarcely had we Uft the shore, when th9
wind increased so much, and the >|ifaves ran sio higfe, th^t our
little bark, loaded with nine peifMons, had gres^t difficulty to
get on. We, however; fought tiirgmgh, ^11, ouv dilficulti^a, and
arrived safely at the ship abput eight o'clock, \ majr truly say,
to the great joy of our cotiipanion;»:. they h^d wit^iiessied, nqt
without very great anxiety and appj:ehensiou, our long and
arduous struggle with the elemeutsi. The ship M(as M]tQ,hQi-^4
in latitude 46" 41' 15' HQrtfe, iQugvtude S417' 2^' v^t.

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAM8CHATRA. 343

On the sixteenth, at day-break, we once more weighed
anchor, and having a fresh south-east wind, towards evening
reached Cape Aniwa, which Captain Krusenstern determined
to be in latitude 46" 2' 20", longitude 216" 29' 40*. On the fol-
lowing morning we doubled it; but soon after the wind sunk,
and by noon a dead calm came on. The whales sported in
great numbers about the ship, commonly in companies of two
or three together. Towards evening we saw a boat with six
persons put off from the land at seven miles distance, and row
towards us. Neither the appearance of the boat or the men
differed in any way from those we had seen before. Night
coming on, probably, induced them to return. !• :p*^

We continued to pursue our way along the coast, and on the
nineteenth approached a bay in latitude 46° 50', longitude
216»£7', bounded to the south by tlie Cape Tongu of tl>e
Dutch. From the anchorage being very indifferent, this
can only serve as a temporary asylum in cases of extreme
necessity : it affords very little shelter against the north and
north-east wind. The distance from hence to Salmon-bay
is between twenty and thirty miles: the two bays are separated
from each other only by a low ridge of hills. This bay is thinly
inhabited, but there is a superfluity of good water and fire-
wood. In the afternoon we came in sight of a high rounded
hill, in latitude 47" 33', longitude 217» 14', which we believed
to be the Spenberg of the Dutch, and the Peak Bernizet of
La Pcrouse.

The coast that we passed on the twentieth afforded a pleasing,
smiling aspect : the weather was rough, and we had some

344 VOYAOK FHOM JAPAN To RAMSCUATKA.

showers of snow: the following day was cloudy. On the
twenty-second we were in the bay called by the Dutch the Gulf
of Patience, and the next day we observed the moulh of a river.
As it was a perfect calm, Captain Krusenslern resolved to
drop the anchor, and examine the coast somewhat nearer : it
was low, woody, and had a very inviting appearance.

A boat was therefore hoisted out, in which several of the
officers went on shore. At their return in the evening they
brought a great deal of tattered sea-weed, a great many broken
shells, and some dried Ashes' roes, a large salmon, and a thorn-
back, with the information that they had found a river very
full of fish, fine woods of fir and birch, abundance of juniper
bushes, and very jGli^ inhabitants. The weather wus still trou-
bled, ai;d seemed to threaten being stormy ; and as the northern
boundary of the gulf is fixed by navigators in latitude 49° 19',
Captain Krusenstern thought it prudent to return southwards.
It is considered as very dangerous to be too near the land
here in stormy weather. Seal Island, as it is called by the
Dutch, is particularly to be avoided, and from this we could
not now be far distant.

On the twenty-fourth, towards noon, we saw the dangerous
reef of rocks that surround Seal Island, on which we turned
to the south and south-west, as well for the purpose of avoid-
ing them as of doubling Cape Patience. Captain Krusenstern
determined the latitude of Seal Island to be between 48° 28' and
48° 36', the longitude between 215*27' and 215° 50'. On the
twenty-sixth vrc were presented with a spectacle no less new
than unexpected : this was a considerable quantity of floating

VOYAOfi FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCIIATKA. 3|5

ice in the west, sonic in small pieces, some in large islands. We
were constrained, in conscijnence, to tnke an easterly course,
tliat we nught not run the hazard of gettint; tot) much into the
neighbourhood of such danj^erous company. • ' ' ■ »

On the folIowin<* niornini*, at four o'clock, we saw a<rain in
the north-west vast fields of floating ice. Under these cir-
cumstances it seemed impossible, at the present tin»e of the
year, to sail farther, in order to examine the north-eastern cot^st
ofTschoka. Nothing, therefore, remained, but to choose be-
tween cruizing about farther to the soutii for some weeks, to
wait the melting of the ice, or sailing away innnediately for
Kamschatka. In tlic latter case the ambassador, who was not
very ninch interested in geographical researches, would be
released, and at a more favourable period, those to whose tastes
they were better suited, could return and prosecute them where
they were now broken oft". This was the thing resolved on»
and we accordingly steered directly eastwards, towards the
Kurile islands. r ' «

In the afternoon of the twenty-eighth the wind freshened
exceedingly, and towards evening it encreascd to a violent
storm. Our situation this night was by so much the more dis-
agreeable, as we could not be far from the Kurile islands. The
whole night through the wind was extremely boisterous, the
waves ran very high, and the rolling of the ship was almost
insupportable.

On the twenty-ninth, at day-break, we vsaw land in the
south-east, but it was soon lost again in a thick fog: later in

Y Y

S46

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA.

the day, when the weather was somewhat clearer, a high peak
was discernible in the south-south-east. While we were
cruizing about in order to steer our course eastward in these
unknown regions with more accuracy, and were waiting the
dispersion of the fog, which concealed all the surrounding ob-
jects from our view, we were carried some miles nearer to the
peak, for the wind was so trifling that we were almost entirely
at the mercy of the currents, which siit to the west. During the
whole day we could perceive a clear, yellowish grey smoke as-
cending from the peak, very distinguishable from the dark grey
of the fog ; the crater of the volcano, which was on the western
point of the hill, was also clearly to be discerned. The summit
of the peak, at the distance of three sea-miles from its foot,
was observed to be two degrees above the horizon. In the
evening came on a heavy fall of snow, and the air was extremely
cold. The thermometer, during the day, was for the most part
a,t 6% but in the night it fell to only 1°.

Early in the morning of the thirtieth we perceived an island,
which we supposed to be the tenth or eleventh of the Kurile
islands. We steered north-east, and expected as soon as we
had turned our backs upon this to be in the waters of Kams-
chatka ; but towards noon we saw another little rocky island,
and farther in the north-east we still discerned another through
the fog. A strong east wind so ii)creased the thickness of the
atmosphere, that Captain Krusenstern could no longer venture
to tack about among unknown islands and reefs of rocks ; he
resolved, therefore, rather to return to tlie Sea of Ochotsk,
where M'e were within our knowledge. The wind was now so
strong that it carried us at the rate of eight miles an hour, and

VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO fcAMSClIATKA. J4Y

continued to blow with considerable violence the whole ni"ht.
In the morning of the thirty-first, after a very heavy snow
shower, the thcrmometei!' was only half a degree abj\ 2 the
freezing point ; and it was with no small astonishment, when we
awoke on the first of June, that we found the deck of the ship
covered some inches deep with snow. The weather cleared,
however, in the day, and we steered once more to the north-
east, towards the Kurile islands. Several whales, some of them
very large, were our companions all this day.

A thick fog began to disperse towards noon, when we could
see the high Peak of Onntkotan, one of the most northerly of
the Kurile islands, not very far from us. Towards evening the
atmosphere was so much cleared that we could discern I he lower
parts of the shore of these islands very plainly, though some of
the ridges and peaks of the mountains were still enveloped in
mist ; we could only occasionally see the high round hill, of
which we had first caught a glimpse in the morning.

With the assistance of a fresh breeze, which rose towards ten
in the evening, we sailed through the channel between Onneko-
tan and Charaniukatan. This channel is only eight miles over.
Early in the morning of the second we were in the open sea
of Kamschatka. This day was clear, and permitted us to see
the greater part of the coast ofPoromuschir and the snow-clad
mountains with which the island abounds: we were now
steering directly for Kamschatka. On the following days we
ran along the south-eastern coast of this peninsula, in which
we saw and admired some very high peaks.

T Y 2

348 VOYAGE FROM JAPAN TO KAMSCHATKA.

On the fourth we perceived in the offing the lofty Peak of
Awatscha: the neighbouring shores had not now the same
pleasing appearance as when we arrived within sight of them
the year before ; for the hills were all covered with snow. On
the following day, ^bout five in the afternoon, we came to an
anchor happily in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. Here
we were rejoiced with receiving letters from our friends and re-
lations, and news from Europe; but of all that we received,
none was so important and so unexpected as that Bonaparte
was declared Emperor of France.

I ■ . .. ; t

VOCABULARY

OF THE

LANGUAGE OF NUKAHIWA.

• UB8TANTIVE8.

A"»" Enata.

^w*"""" Wahine.

A married man, a husband Medua.

A ma led woman, a wife Mahui, Wehanna.

AnfJdman j^^^y^^

An old woman Bachaio.

Afathcr Motua.

■*• "mother Ekuhi.

l''»'''^"ts Teamutu.

Aboy, asoD Ejama.

Alittlcboy Etamaiti,

■A^ ^"■o^''" Tuuane cteino;

A girl, a dauglitcr , Moi.

•^s'»ter Toahine.

A handsome girl Pohotu.

A t**" '"!»» Enata hoa.

^ ''""' ""»" Enata mocca.

Afatman Enata nui.

A'"»"-'='"«r Kainata.

'""^*'''" Kuko.

'^''"'' '''='"* Oopocho, obogo.

950 VOCABULARY OP THE LANGUAGE OF NUKAHIWA.

The forehead Hai.

The eyes Matta.

The eyebrows Juke hie.

Theears BuaTna.

Thechin Cohuai.

The jdw.bone Coufai.

Themouth Henatu.

The lips Ki„m„,

Theteeth Kiho.

Thetongue j^^^^

Thebeard Kumi.

Thehair Whn.oho.

The shoulder Bowhei.

Thearm, the hand Eima, ehiraa.

Th'e'how j,i„^

^'•"''"8"» Magamagaima.

The finger nails jyiahigu.

T'"' ""'^'^ Kaki.kakgihe.

The breast Huma.huma.

The bosom of a fcmaU Tehu.ehoa.

Theheart T8.».te.

The back Matetua.

Thehelly Roopu, or Ecopu.

Theltgs Waiwai.

Thcthigh pu„^^^

Theknee jiog.

The foot Tewai.wai.

l^"^^'^ Tuki.te.Waiwai.

B'«»'' Toofo.

The kidneys Coma*;

A leader, or chief ^jj^j

A friend ^ _ ry. ••

A friendly man \] ^ Euata.mitai.

^"♦'""Ser Man«hih.

^^^''^ Ekamu.

* Buaka.Duji)h8.

f"* Potu.

^••"S Buac

I • • • • a • I

VOCABULABT OP THl LAIfOVAGB OP KVRAHIWA.

Fish, In general TanMk..

^^'^ Ik..

A particular kind of black fish Pahu*

fy'"»fi"' '. M5«.»tema».

^'^"^ Mono.

^"*«* Pnchi. .

^^•'*" Uchl.

Asortofcrab ^pooto.

Another sort of crab Pehu.

Tu.tt.ai.

Emanu.

Moha.

Teubu.

Ekaba.

Tika-ue.'
The bread-fruit i^j^^g

The bread-fruit tree .' T«ina.mei.

Fermented bread-fruit j^^^

The leaf of a tree ''.*.*.'.;;;;; TehoV

Niu.aehie.t«ehi.
Meiga.

Tckuma.

The ^gar.cane ij.g|

A sort of root (Arum macorrhizon) Happeh.

Puamomono;

5^1

A muscle

A bird

A hen

Hen's feathers
A lizard ... .
Flies

Cocoa-nuts

Bananas

Batatas.

A flower

Beans

A bush

Grass of different sorts

Wood

The bark of a tree . . .

The sun

The moon

The stars

' Boniu.

Teita.

Mugu, totoe, buaga.

Wahie.

• • Eipau.

Umati.

, Mahin*

„,. Eretu.

I he new moon (the moon that will come) Mahine etamai

The full moon C<Acgrea<OToo»; Mahine nui.

The earth, land v

.„., , , Keunua. Whoonua.

An island, a rock ^ooto.

^'''" Pufi.

552 VOCABULARY OP THE LANGUAGE OF NUKAHIWA..

A rircr, a stream (much water). . . . ^ Wai.nui.

The sea TSi.

Fire Eachi, eahi

Water Ewai, ewahi

The wind , Mchini.

The north wind Tukuahu.

The east wind Tiutiu

TJiunder Hatu-piki, hatuti

Lightning '. Tcu.i.ia.

Rain Euii.

'••on Toki

^»y Uateii, wate*

-^•'ousc OhSai, tchaS.

A boat, a canoe ," Waga.

A fishing hook Mcdau.

^naxo Toki.

The cloth worn round the waist Eute.

Glass beads pj-j

A dagger coho

A'"'»" Tahi.

A fan with a carved handle Tahikatu.

Fire-arms , pQj,

An ornament of feathers for the head Bcuc.

Another sort of ornament ileigua.

An ornament of feathers for the back Hopcmoa.

A flute of two reeds Buchoche.

▲ calebash, as used to hold w ater Hue.

A battle, a fish t Tona.

^''oiUh.., Mrmai, mamai.

A woman's waist-biiidcr Teiweu.

'^'»^™""' Wahine'hai-.

A spirit, a i>lia>)(o-n Tctua.

A nccklacf of red ^laus Xy|,a^ ^^f^

A lie rp. ,.. ^.

I ichoe, tiwawa.

^'"""^ Koheu.

A club, for fighting ;. . KSiu-toa.

Ahcarylonglauce pa,^,.^^^

A lighter sort of lanco Kebu.

VOCABULARY OF THE LANGVA6B OF MUKAHIWA.

Astrawmat Moica.

■^'"'''■« • Koche.

^'""""s Puipui.

^P"""* Taua, ctua. ''

S'"""^^ Uwai. ,

^"«" Ehoh.

S"* Tai.

|*J^^ Enutai

_ Kakanai

C°"^ Vhau

Thin packthread Itiltivhau

nT'VT""u Ehakatta,Uha«a

Cloth, made from the paper-mulberry.tree Kachu

Stone _, .

A«ii ......;;.;;; Te-r"**

tr"'"* '•.••'•'''.'.[['.'.][,'. TaUai

A drum n .

. , £pachu

An orphan child w . ,u .

Twins Enatatubendt

An European ship, a large canoe Tewaka nui

Initrumeots for cutting, as ouster or muscle shells . . Uchl

PRONOUNS.

mc Aujorwa*

Thou,oryou q..

He or she ^..

^•- ••■ ..:::;.:::::::':: Z

ADJECTIVES, ADVERBS, &C.
Black

Red ...;..*.*].7.;: ku^

Yellow, and, probably, also the root thatdies yellow Jega mo..

Good -^

Wicked ;.;; ^t\ •

B Whahai.

f oor, or a poor creature, or a wretch j^jk j

Handsome ■»,..*

Dirty .... ^''*'"-

Z 2

3dS

3i4

TOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF NUKAHIWA.

High, tall

Very high, rery tall

Great, much

Very great, very much

Great, long, or large

Little • :

Very little

Light, nut heavy • • >

To-duy

Yesterday

This evening .,

This morning

Early morning

Yes. This is often used as a question — Is it so ? .

Still, silent

A piece, or a p; i }f any thing

How much

Both of us, us two

Both

Soon " ■ ■

Principally

Where

Wherefore, why

Come hither •

Enough '

An exclamation, un expression of astonishment.

Lame

Cold

04.

0& nui.

Nui.

Nui.nui.

Hoa.

Iti.

Ki-iti.

£araa.

Kubo.

Encnabr.

Achi.achi.

Oi.oi

Oi.Oi tika.

Ah.

Aoe.

Tuitui.

Footonoa.

Ehia.

Tchua.

Tau.

Eppo, or heppo.

A-i-ki, or cuki,

Thea.

Ehata.

Itaniai, bimai, lutamai.

Etoc.

Ehoooh.

Cowi.

Eanu.

VERBS, AND VKUBAL EXPRESSIONS.

To bring, bring me Tukukumai.

To burn, to set on fire Etutu teahi.

To fasten, to tie on Ahumu.

Fasten <he skull to the hip Ahumu te opogo tehob)!.

To eat Akai.

GiTc me to cat Akai ma'i.

VOCABULARY OP THE LANGUACK OP NUKAHIWA..

9SS

Is itiof Is it true?

To catch, as in a stiaro or trap

To make fire, by friction

To fight

To catch with tho hand ...

To join noses, the substitute for liissiing

To laugh

Lt't us see

Let mo aloup, said in anger

To love

To ileposit in tho earth, to inter

To fetch, fetch it fur mo

To cough

To I)e hungry

To scratch

To fly

Let us be friends

To be afraid, to liave fear

I am not afraid

Follow nie

To give .

Giro mo something

To bear, to bring forth a child

To bo lame

This is good

To hold as a vessel holds water

To take hold of

To descend a hSll

To ascend a hill

To break

To break any thing in pieces

To cut down

Let us cut down trees or make wood . .

To bite

Bito a piece of swinc's-flesh

To cool, to make an air with a fan ... .

Take a fan to cool yourself

To icrape to pieces

Ehoi. , , .,. , ,

Amu.

Eittka tcalii. , ; ,/ ,

ToQa. / .

Ahekc. ;,/ ,> ,

I'lhoni.teihu, Onaichu. »,

Uucata, VVhucata. , ;.

Tiime aha. , i

Nau

Etomi.

Atu ulio-oii.

Ehapu.

Eone.

Tube. i ,, ;

Eohna. , ; ,

Mitai ane-u.ttu.

Ilamctau oe.

Aoehametau aii.

Mamui mai.

Tukemai.

Tukcmai taitit.

A'ia tcaina.

Mohoi cowi.

Mei tahi mitaki.

Koiteima.

Akaia.

Amai ahcke.

Amai ahiti.

Wiwah.

Wiwah laoe.

Koti.

Koti to wahie.'

Ane.nahu. ,

Ane.nahu tc buacB o'e.

Tahi te tukuanu. .

A(a oe tahi mai oe t« tqkuaav.

Awau.

^^».H^ri_ Jp:

Z 2 2

$56 TOCABVIARY 01- THB LAKCUAGE OF NUKAHIWA.

Scrap* cocoK.nuU, and pren out the juice \wru oe teehi ooe toco ehl.

To sail Wate.e.

The ihip hai iailed away « Tc waka wate-e.

To ihorten, to cut a piece off Koko oti pootonoa.

To undress, that is, to unbind the cloth worn round

the waist Ato te kachu.

To arrive at a place Watata.

A ship is arrived To waka nui Watata.

Answer me Apca ma'i oe.

To be hot Kai.kai.

To awaken ^ U.a.ai.

Toeutout Ehu:

To hang np against the wall Ahiki tiuka.

To strike a light Apubi teima.

To extinguish the light Matte teama.

To bathe, to wash Kaukau.

To iaToke, the spirit of a person, to which some.

thing is offered Natetn.

To make, what do yot^ make Ehata oe.

To make or build a house Ehata tehae.

To come near Auhahaga piinai.

What is your name Oaitoiehoa, oaitouhoa.

To join cloth together, to sew Tuitui kachu.

Take this away Akawe.

Take this, accept this Ai'-ia.

Open the cocoa-nut Wahi teehi.

Pack off, get you gone Ata oe.

To pack up Appa.

To clean, to make white TawaihS.

To call Apcwau.

Call the man. . .\ ^. . . . Apewau.t.enata.

To smell sweet, as a flower Kekau.

To say Pcau.

IteKyo" ^ Peaumaioe

Isay Eataoe.

Tell me the name of the country Ahaki mai oe te hennuali Sh.

Bringmesand T.iki.miii enutal.

To be pregnant Etubutaraa.

TOCABVLARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF NUKABIWA*

357

Tostrik Pohi.pehi.

To deep • Emoe.

Sleep with me Emoe tau«

To snore Matekiilihiemo4.

To cut Kokoti.

To cry out Wewan.

To sweat Tuchuaou.

To swim Ekau.

It gives me pain Hemima'i.

To sit, sit down < Nolio oe.

To see Tioclie.

Let us see Tioclie ai.ai.

To sing Caba.

Sing sometliing Caba mai oe.

To sing as tlic priests over tlie dead Ewanahna.

To spring, to leap Hobu.

To die Mate.matle.

Tosteal Makamu.

Don't make a noise Mai nia te buaKna.

To stink Tuchia.

To tattoo Pipikatu.

To dance Ehaka, wehaka.

To drink Aigu, einu.

To be dry, free from moisture Wa'i wci.

The earth is dry Hennuah Waiwei.

To be married jjoho te wabanna.

What would you have Ehata oe.

To grow, to thrive Uatubu.

■ 'it

To wash

To wrep .-.

To hurt, to give pain

To go away

To draw, to drag away

I will

t wiUnot Koenui.

I will drink ' £!„„ „u5.

To will, to be willing Teaki.

To be wounded , , , , fiohobe.

Ookau.

Uwah.

Hemima'i.

TahatSchoB.

Uakawe, wahio.

Nui.

938

VOCABULARY OF THE LANCUAOK OF KUKAIIIWA.

. NUMERALS.

One .,......' Botahal.

Two Bohu»

Three Botoii.

Four Boha, bofa.

FIto Boliiraa.

Six Bohuno.

ScTcn , Bofiddo, fiddii.

Eight Bowahu.

Nine Bohi wa.

Ten fioohii, ongofulu.

Twenty Itua.fulu.

Thirty Tolii ongofulu.

Forty ••••.. Fa ongofulu.

Fifty Hima ongofulu:

A hundred Tchau.

Two hundred Uatchau.

Three hundred Tou-tchau;

A thousand A fei.

SPECIMENS OF THE LANGUAGES SPOKEN AMONG DIFFERENT

TRIBES OF THE AINU; '

THOSE WHO INHABIT THE SOUTHERN PART OF KAMSCHATKA, THE KURILK

ISLANDS, THE NORTHERN COAST OF JE8S0, THE SOUTHERN PART 01'

T8CH0KA, ANO THE NORTH-EAST POINT OP T8CH0KA.

Eagtlih.

Ainu of
Kouibcliaika.

Ainu of the
Aurilu :«laod8.

Ainu of JcHo.

Aiau of the floalhern
Cuaitnf Ttchuka.

Ainu of thi

Nurth-enit

Point of TichoU.

Difii . . . ; . .kandtt ; . . . nischiuro • • • •

■) .... tonotschu tombi,t«chukfkaraol

Uchuppu . .tichupUh

J .... tschu tombi, tschukf

Tlic Stars kcta kltU nodschu kcda, nodsi

A Cloud iiuriiir ur&tftk nisch'i, nischikuri. . urari

ssirugen . . . .ssyruyhn,. . . apto apto, apftu -

kaukaih kawukawu kawukawu, kaukau.

bass :

ipasch upass uba-'-hi. ...... iipaschi, obass . . . nlto

kei-ra rahra diua d rra, rcra

uni kamiiigkumph kannokJmoi .... kiiniiakamoi

Lightning kamui-ssiuune ka.noinibigi .

Firo ap'i ap8h uniUhi, abe abc, undshi. .... undihi ..

pi pill waka waka wachkaa.

k.viii kiidin . . . . toi toi, tui.

otliiir tapkiip. . . . nuburi kinda, noburi

s--::nija; .- . .ssupujah . . . pa sschubuja . ;

poinA polnilh • schiuma

oti Ota : . . . Ota, oda

icinitoi . , . .doi. ..... toi ; ... toi

atiiika adilikS. . . . atui atui, adui

MO ....;.. to> 8«"^>

Heaven

Tlie Sun

The Moon

Haia
Hail

Snow
Wind
Thunder

Water
Earth
A Hill
Smoke
Stone
Sand
Argilc
The Sea
A Lake

360

SPECIMENS OF THE LANGL?AOES OF THE AINli

English.

A river
A man
A husband
A w'>
A fat; iM-
A mother
A son
A daughter
The head
The ear
The eye
The nose
The mouth
The tongue
A tooth
The hand
The foot
Flesh
Blood
Fat

The heart
The back
A nail
A house
A knife
An axa
A plant
A seal
A sea otter
A crab
A dog
A mousa
A fox
A bear

Ainu of
Kamsclmtka.

pet, uiem . . . ■

aiuit. .......

kokaio

kamtsthi. . . .

mitschi

uapu

kpuhu

k|i6mmai9chi,

papop

ksar

ssik

etil

tschar

achu

imak

tek

kcmil

l;am

Aiini of tlio
Kurilc liilands.

Ainu of Jessn.

Ainu of (lie Soullirrn
Coast of Tschoka.

Ainu flt' (lie

Nortli-Cint

Point of Tschoka.

ssampc.
Bsetur. .

tsche
epira .

mun.

stapu

crmu ....
kimutpe . .
kamui . . .

potli piz pcz, bcz

aiiiuh aino aino, guru uru

mam^thkorgur chobu ,,,. chobu, chogu

gmatschi .... mati mati, maz

grupnainu eischiwa

grupnitschimlt chabu tschqkkara. .

oltilij6i»6bomp6 poo

matiigb^mpS mazpu, mazenebu

gpii nana nanu, schaba

gsahr kifschara kischara toko

ssik schiki schiki, schigi kercroante . .

iihdu.n ito idu tencschi. .. .

tschar zaro paro, paru

auch barumbi au

jumaki nimaki

dek amoini undi, tegi kcma.tike...

kehiamii .... uzkami kema kamko

kam naschi kam ,

kehm kern to, kim

pTjep , ke ke, kiii, schium

sampgh schambi

ssedur schedru schedaru, scheduru ,

ahm am am, ami

z'sse kee

epy^rS magidc magiri bakiro

miika'" niukar ukari

muha mun mun kiu

thoar tukari

kjakko, kothonlp raku

chau Tng .... takaki. takaki

stahpu chcta scheta, scheda scheta

armiih irimo irimo, pon irimo

kymothpgh.. schumari schumari,schiumari

kamiii . . hippari chugujukf, aira

mandi

SPKCIMENS OF 'Ulli KANCiUAHES OP THE AIM;.

liiii

Engli<b.

A wolf
A bird
A gooso
A (luck
All egg
A fish
A ray
A tree
A leaf
A root
Birch
Salt
Milk
Large
Little
High
Low-
White
Black
Red
To cat
To drink
To sleep
I

Thou
He
One
Two
Three
Four
Fit*

Six
SeTcn

Ainu of
Kumschatka.

A'inuaf llir>
Kurilt! Islands,

Ainu of Jciiit,

Ainu of the Southern Ainu of the
Coast of Tschoka. N orth - east

Point of Tschoka.

orgiii storkhyg

tschirpu tschika ...

kuitdp .... kill tup

tschirpu kobcttscha.

noki nohk nuki

ssuttschip, . . tschep tschep ....

omil hoina

ni nyh

nien

abi.

ssiurit

tanni. .... tah.nyh. .

ssippii

toopi dopSh

porogo. . . . buruktir .... poro

moiogo. . . . mSfjop pon

triiva. .... rih'arujewa . . ri

oramua tain .......

retanoo dctara

ekururoko kunnc

iiratatkiwa . . hurSp kurc

ischama. . . . TppS,h amama ....

kpckrcigina. . pehkuh ogauni, . . . ,

kmokonrossivamokSr mogoro. . . .

ka . . . . : . ganu ,

€i canny ,

..:.... t^lngur ,

ssinep ssyhnap .... schinep ....

tuup diiph toopu

rep. , . . . : rich reepu

in^p ..... yhnap inepn

assik ahssik aschiknepu .

, tischi kanioi

tschikupu zkapf

guitu

kobcttscha ,

zapfnuku

tschep, zma, zcpf . , iroki.

chuma, zcpfchuma

ni, nil appcc .

ni.chamu

schyndshiz

karTmba>nii

schippo, schipo

too

poro

ponno, pon

ruino, riuwa

chaukino, uramua.
tetara, tedari

ivan yhgttiihn .... iwanebe..

arau^n. . . . ariiahn aruwanbc.

kunni

furi '.

cbe, annuwa

•k", igu kagai.

mokuru,moguru

tschogai

itschogai

tada ogjii

ichincni, schncpf

toni, tup

reni, rcpf

ine, inipf.,

aschikinc, aschiki

nipf.....

iwanbe, j u wambi

aruwanbe, aruwam.
bi

A AA

a62

Engliib.
Eight
Nine

SPECIMENS OF THE LANGUAGES OK THE AINU

Aluu of Jesio.

Ainu of Ainu of the

Kainichatko. Kurilc Islandi

Ten

Eleven

Forty
Fifty

tubis dulipyhs.. .. (obischanbc

Ainu >ir the Southern A inu of the

Coast of Tschoku. N oith - en<i

Point of Ticbuka.

.. tobischanbc, tubls.

chambi

isincpis. . . . ssyhnapyhi.. schiiipischanbc . . . . schinpischaiibc,

sclincbisciiainbi. . .

"wp>s upyhs waiiak warabe, wambi

Esiiicp.ikamua ssynaplkas . schinopii ikaschiina schncpu, igaschinia

ma&il waiibe wambi •

Twelve tuuptsch ika. duphikasmaua toopu ikaschima tupu ikaKchlma

Biua .... wanibc wambi

Twenty tuamp^. . . . duampitschi,

hoth chozu schnechoz, choz ... .

Thirty reuamp6 . . . rauampitsch . wanbeitozu wambi idochoz

incuampi. . . duguth togozu tochoz

assikncuamp^ uampohrii hoth* wanbcnircgozti . . . wambi irichoz

A hundred ufinuampc. . . ahssikniih8th+ aschikcncgoiu. .. . ascliikinichoz..-

A thousand uanotnekaroi)e aschikinischine. wane

choz

JvLiva TOK Klapuotii.

* That is to »aj ten less thau three timei (weNijr.

t- Fi»e times tirenljr.

INDEX.

' 'A.

ji'inoy or A'inn, a tuimbcr of tribos on <lio
■Wfntcrn coast of Asia, so culled, 328,
and noto — A mild iiiul benovolcnt rare,
f'A. — K»'pt ill grpiit siibjoction by the J:\.
pniicsc ictdcrs, 341.

American Seamen, numbers settled in Owhy.
hoe, 187.

American Vessel, great mistake made by one
in the longitude, IT.

Anitca Bay, in the itiand of Tschoka ; the
ship anchors thcrc,330,7- Dinner of a party
that went on shore w'^h some Japanese
merchants, 339.

Anthropophagism, the nations that haro
been guilty of it, 140 — Motives that lead
to it, 142 — Particular and extraordinary
instances of it, ib.

Atomeri, a small island ofTSanta Catharina,
3% and 34.

Aluan, an evil spirit so called at Nukahiwa,
138.

Audience, the first given to the Rnsiian Am.
bassador at Japan, 307— The second,
308— The (hird, 314.

Aurora Borealis, a very uncommon one
seen upon the voyage, 'i.

Author, the, goes to Portugal with Prince
Waldcck, Introduction, vii — His love of
Natural History, ib, — Settles at Lisbon
as a Physician, viii — Appointed Surgeon
to an Knglish corps, ib. — Returns to
Germany, ib. — Applies for an appoint,
ment in the Russian expedition, ix.— Is
disappointed of obtaining it, ib. — Re.
■olves to meet the ship's company at Co.
pcnhagen, x. — Obtains the ambassador's
consent to his joining them, ib.

Ajcatschu, the bay ofi in Kamschatka; arri.
vai of the vessel there, 195.

liallooH, one sent up by the author at Ja.

pan, 293.
BiUls, shot from bows instead of arrows,

45— Extraordinary instances of dexterity

in shooting with them, ib.
Bananai, various ways of dressing them in

Braiil, 53— The leaves of the tree used as

parasols at Nukahiwa, IIS.

A A

lUinjos, or Opprrbanjos, a title given to *

certain class uf persons in Japan, 224—

The llnssiaiis on their arrival questioned

by th«m, 225.
Bird.Spidcr, nu insect in Brazil, curious

account «r ii, 72.
Ilotunic (Harden, account of one at Tenc-

rift'e, 15 — Plan of the establishment to fa.

miliarizu the plants of hot countries with

colder.ones, ib.
Botes, a particular sort used al Santa Ca.

tharina, 45.
Brazil, Continent of, beauty of the country,

55 — Variety and beauty of the natural

productions, 56.
Bread-fruit, one of the most essential arti.

cles of food at Nukahiwa, 123 — Descrip.

tion of it, 124 — Principal modes of cook.

lag it. ib.
ButterJliet,numheTi seen at sixty miles fron\

the coast of Brazil, 20 — Various kinds in

that country, and particularly beautiful,

32, 64, 55, 68, 73, 74.
ButterJly-netSf the proper ones required ia

Brazil.

C.
Caboecolot^ the native inhabitants of Santa.

Catharina, 38 — Their inroads upon the

settlers, ib.
Cabri, Jean Baptiste, a French sailor found

on the island of Nukahiwa, 07 — Almost

naturalized there, 08 — Slightly and irre.

gularly tattooed, 121 — Suspected of eat.

ing human flesh, 148 — Superstitions im.

bibed by him, 157 — Carried away by ac.

cident from Nnkahiwa, 181 — He refuse*

to remain at Owhyheo, 184 — Goes to St.

Pctersburgh, Introduction, xi— Exhibits

the dances of the savages there, and at

Moscow, xii — Appointedjto be teacher of

swimming atCroustadt, ib.
Cadeirinhas, a spccioi of chair used at Santa

Catharina, 47.
Cassava-root, or Tapioca, a material artlcia

of food at Santa Catharina, 36.
Catilina-crameri, an extraordinary species of

butterfly that emits froth, 74.
Cattle, a great number bred at Santa Ca.

tharina, 38— Suffered to run wild, ib,—

Manner of catching them, ib,
A 2

INDEX.

ChUiMrth at Nukahitrs, enstomi obserTed

on the occasion, 151.
Children at Japan, long garments worn by

them, Introduction, zviii.
Ciiinetejunkty Tcry heary clnmsy vessels,

339 and 268.
Circumcision, a custom obserTed at Nuka.

hi Via, 158.
Compliments^ the manner of making them in

Japan, 236 — All persons compelled to

make them to persons of distinc(ion, 232

— Description of one made to the Russian

ambassador, 259.
Copaiva-balsam, or balsam of Tolu, culti-

vuted at Santa Catharina, 43.
Coral.snakey a very venomous reptile in

Brazil, 70.
Cornish minerals, a complete collection of,

possessed by Counsellor Klaproth of Bcr.

lin, 3, nofe.
Coronation, festival of the Russian Empe.

ror's, celebrated, 210.
Cofton-zcool, inconvenient machine used by

the Brazilians in preparing it, 63.
Cuova del Gelo, a curious cavern in the Peak

of Tcneriffe, 19.

Da'iri, the spiritual sovereign of Japan, his
intrigues, 290.

Dances, those of the negroes at Santa Catha-
rina, 47 — Those of the Nukahiwans, 158
— That of the Kamsthadales, 202.

Dangereuse La, a rock mentioned by La
Pcrouse, 335.

Dog.Jish, two very large ones caught in tho
Pacific Ocean, 192.

Dominicans, a convent of, at TencrifTc, 12.

Dragon's-blood tree, a very remarliable one
in the island of Teneriife, 16.

Earth.nut, much cultivated at Santa Catha.

rina, 36.
Easier Island, extravagant account given of

the natives by the first discoverers, 85.
Ecclesiastics, very few atSanta Catharina, 44.
Eleclriml machine, the Japanese particu.

larly intcrchtcd by one, 235.
Emhassi/, the Russian to Japan, circum.

stances (hat led to it, 203.

Equator, the, passed for the first time by a
Russian ship, 23 — Ceremonies observed
on the occasion, 24.

Empe) -1" of Japan, his name never knovrn
during his life, 241.

Falmouth, description of that town, i—
Fish brought to market there, 3.

Fingers, used very much in eating at Santa
Catharina, 61.

Fish, great abundance brought to market at
Santa Cruz, 9 — Different sorts eaten at
Santa Catharina, 76 — Not eaten at Nu-
kahiwa but in cases of necessity, 126.

Ft.y{,Prince of, at Japan, his boat particular,
ly splendid, 248— Description of it, 280
The ambassador goes in it to Nangasaki,
304 — The town hung partly with his arms,
305.

Foot-baths, very much used at Santa Catha.
rina, 46 — The author's delight in one, 53.

Fortresses, the constructions in Japan so
called, 233.

Froth, emitted by an extraordinary species
of butterfly, 74.

Funeral ceremonies, those observed at Nu.
kahiwa, 154.

Garaehico, harbour of, at Teneriife choakcd

with lava, 20.
Geography, very much attended to by (he

Japanese, 237 and 246.
Glanih, two remarkable ones in the heads of

(lie Nukahiwans, xiv.
Globe, a pocket one, very much admired by

the Japanese, 238.
Gold anil Silver Islands, so^ight for in vain

by Captain KrHsemtern. 193.
Grottoes, fe»eral amoP:; tlic mountains of

TcntTiHV, 10 — Supposed (o have been (he

ancient haliUations of thctiuanclies, ib,
Cuanches, the original inhabitants of Tene.

riffe, 11 — Some genuine descendants of

them slill existing, ib.
Guns, (ho!>e of Japan fired with lighted

matches, 263.

If.

Harbours, several good ones enumerated in
the island of Nukahiwa, 104.

INDEX.

HerringSf immense quantities dried on the

island of Jesso, 339.
Horner, Dr. his merits as an astronomer, 33.
Houses, manner of building them at Nuka.

hiwa, 130.
Human Jlesh, eaten at Nukahiwa, 138, and

148.

Ice, a quantity of floating, seen from the

ship, 345. '■'{)
Interpreters, a number of official ones at

Japan, 324, note.

' J.

Japanese, some wrecked on the coast of
Kamschalka, 203— Carried home by Lieu-
tenant Laxmann, 204 — Others wrecked
on the same coast, 207 — Four of them
carried home by Captain Krifsenstern,
308 — First visit of some to the Russian
ship, %2i -^Particular attention of thtse
people tomakinjg; compliments, 226— The
Russians required by them to give up
their arms and powder,, 228 — Those car.
ried home by the llussians reproved for
misconduct, 236— Great attention of the
Japansse to Geography, 246 — The boys
early expert at mechanical occupations,
260 — One of the Japanese interpreters
wishes much to travel, 266 — One of those
brought from Russia attempts to destroy
himself, 287 — Some settled upon the island
of Jcsso, 329 — and upon the island of
Tschoka, 339.

Jesso, island of, appearance of the country,
323.

Kacha, a sort of charm used at Nukahiwa
described, 155.

Kakuh, a sort of food made from the bread,
fruit, 124.

Kamschutka, aspect of the country in ap.
preaching it, 195 — Difficulties found by
the author in explorini; the country, 199
— its political situation, ib. — Not so poor
a country as is generally imagined, 201.

Kermes, the Dutch name for a Japanese fes-
tival, 238.

Klttproth, Connsellor, of ^erlin, bis collec-
tion of Cornish minerals, 3, note.

Kombie, a sort of food eaten at Jesso, made
from a species otfucut, 333, note.

Lanterns, small paper ones rery much used

in Japan, 324, 247, 273.
Lava, the houses at Santa-Cruz built, and

the streets paved with it, 10 — A quantity

of vitrified lava about the Peak of Tene.

riffe, 17,
Lobster, the, considered at Japan as the

emblem of health, 291. .

M. .'.= '.,

Mandioca, another name for tapioca, or cas.

sava-root, 36.
Marriages, form of them at Nukahiwa, 153.
Mechanics in a very low state at Brazil, 63
— Inconvenience of all the implements for

mechanical trades, ib.
Medusa;, a great number in the Pacific

Ocean, 191.
Megasaki, description of the ambassador's

house there, 279, and 282.
Minerals, the various sorts in the mountains

of Teneriife, 10.
Mollusquw, a great variety seen by the au.

thor in the Atlantic, 29 — Also between

Owhyhee and Kamschatka, 191.
Mongolfier, one made by the author at Ja.

pan, 293.
Monks, two convents of at Santa-Crui, 9 —

A monastery of Dominicans in another

part of Teneriife, 12.
Mufau Taputakava, an inhabitant of Nuka.

hiwa, his extraordinary stature, 108 — >His

proportions the same as the Apollo of Bel.

vedere, 109 — The particulars of them, ib.

— Shorter by ahead than another Nukahi.

wan, ib. — His extraordinary dcAlerity in

swimming, 170.
Mummies, curious dried ones found in the

island of Teneriife, 11 — Some nearly simi.

lar found in London, ib. note.

Nangasaki, a town and harbour at Ja^
pan, 220 — Arrival of the Russian rcssel

INDEX.

thcrc,220— It anchors in the outer harbour,
222 — 'Vhti town first seen by the Russians,
246 — They at length anchor very near it,
266 — Procession of the ambassador to the
governor's iiouse there, 305,

Naturalist, obstacles to his pursuits at Santa
Catharinu, 39 — The author meets with an
expcriiuiced one in Brazil, 51 — Dificrcnt
excursions made with him, 54.

Nava, Marquis de, his botanic garden at
Tcneiiffe, 15 — His plan for familiarizing
plants of hot countries vith colder ones,
id.

Negro-slavea, a great number at Santa Ca-
tharina, 41— VVhenco imported, ib. — The
prices at which they are sold, ib, — Often
join the natives in their inroads upon the
settlers, 42 — Their dances, 47.

Nctat/ear, rianucr of celebrating it in Japan,
2!)0, and 292.

.Vejcw/crt/'* gifts at Japan, account of them,
291 — A splendid one sent to the Russian
ambassador, ib.

Norimon, a sort of Sedan. chair used in Ja-
pan, 302.

yossa Senhora d>> Desterro, the principal
tow n of Santa. Catharina, 34.

SuknIiiKn, island of, arrival of fhc Russian
ship there, 88 — Visited by the king, 90 —
Great numbi.^TS of the islanders come on
hoard, 91 — Importunity of the women,
93— Kxtcnt of the island, 104— Its har.
hours, ib. — Its population, 105 — The in.
habitants a handsome race, 108 — Extra,
ordinary stature of one, ib, — Another
still taller, 109 — Their expression of conn,
tcnancc pleasing, 1 10 — The women hand,
somcr than those of Otahcitc, 111 — The
people not naturally brown, but the men
«oon sun-burnt, 113 — ^The women of dis.
tiiiction lareful of their complexions, ib.
— Their mode of bleaching thiir skins if
tanned, ib. — Frequently rub themselves
with a yellow ointment, 114 — Tattooing
brought to great perfection by the Nnka.
hiwans, 117 — The taboo societies, 121 —
Clothin-; of the people, 123 — Their food,
ib. — They eat human flesh, lid — Their
habitations, ib, — Their government, 130
•—Their manner of going to battle, 150-.-

Some other customs, 161 — Marriages, \S?,
— Funeral ceremonies, 154 — Supersti-
tions, 155.— Dances, 158. Music, 160 —
Measured striking on their bodies, 163—
Their musical instruments, 164— One of
their popular songs, 165 — Their running
on stilts, 168 — Their swimming, 169 —
Their ornaments, 170 — Their canoes, 173
— Very few quadrupeds, 170 — Danger of
the ship on quitting the island, 179.
Nuns, a convent of, at Tenerifl'e, 13.

Ointment, a yellow one much used by the
Nukahiwans, 114.

Opperbanjos. or Banjos, a title of distinction
at Japan i24.

Owhj/hee, , (and of, arrival of the ship
there, 182 — Progress made in civilization,
185 — Endeavours of the King to increase
its prosperity, 186 — Many of the inha-
bitants serving as sailors on board Ameri-
can vessels, 187-^Excellcnco of the cord-
age made Ihore, ib. — State of the marine,
1H8 — A sort of wood said to grow ther«
impervious to worms, ib,

Peak ofTencriffc, itsheighth, 17— Heighth of

the plain on which it stands, i6.— Abounds

with vitrified lava and pumice stones, ib,

— Circumference of the crater, 18 — Its

composition, ib.
Pease, roasted ones used in Japan as a charm

against evil spirits, 29%.
PetropauloKsk, the town of, in Kamschatka,

its situation, 196 — Ball given there by

General Koschelcif, 20l.
Physalis pelagica, smart occasioned by

touching if, 23.
Physician of Japan, his mode of examining

his patient, 294 — Objections made against

his attending the Russian ambassador,

295.
Popoi, a sort of fermented bread-fruit made

at Nukahiwa, 125.
Porto de tOrolava, town of, at Teneriffe,

14 — Its fine situation, 15.
Presents, enumeration of those sent by the

Emperor of Russia to tho Emperor of

INDEX.

Japan, %3S — The Japanese not permitted

to accept any prt-sents, S3R — ThoRC sent

to the Emperor refused, 312.
Procession, that of the Russian ambassador

to the governor's house at Nangasaki,

305.
Promontory of the Ruttiant, one so named

by Captain Kruseti»t»-rn, 321.
Provisions, articles of. and their prices, at

Santa Ca( iarir^, 36, ar*d 37.
Pulex penetrans f or sand.fl ;a, a tronblcsome

insect at Santa Cathariiia, 46 — Inconvc.

niencies often experienced from it, ib, and

68.
Purchases, none permitted to be made in

Japan, 290.

Quadrupeds^ Terjr few at Nukahiwa, 176.
R.

Rny, the fish, popular belief that the thorns
in its tail are poisonous, 9.

Roberts, an Knglish sailor found on the
island of Nukahiw^i, 90-~His enmity to-
wards a French tiailor on the island, 9Q—
Jlis zeal in the service of the Russian ship
and crew, 97 — Very little tattoooed.

Saint Peter and Saint Paul, a fine harbour
in Kamschatka, 107 — Productions of the
country round it, ib.

Sand.Jlea, great inconvenience often expe«
rionced from it, 68.

Santa Calharina, island of, beautiful ap.
proach to it, 31 — Its eiitcnt, 33 — Popu-
lation, 34 — Manners of the inhabitants,
35 — Extent of its dependencies, ib. — Its
]ir<)duciions, ib. — Articles of food, and
tlicir prices, 36 and 37 — A great many
cattle reared there, 38 — Suffered to run
wild, ih. — Manner of catching them, ib.
— The Portuguese settlers there subject
to inroads from the natives, 38 — Particu.
iars relative to the climate, 39 — Customs
and habits that prevail in the country, 4U,
and 44 — Great number of negro slaves,
41 — Numerous objects of trade that might
be ])roduced there, 43 — Very few eccle-
siastics, 44 — A particular sort of bow for

shooting balls used, 45 — Importance of
the whab.fishery, 64 — Diseases of the
island, 67 — Slate of medicine, ib, — Bad
teeth of th« natives, 69 — Natural history,

:o.

Santa-Crut, the principal town on the
island of Teneriffe, 7 — Rabble constantly
in the streets there, ib. — Good anchorage
in the harbour, 8 — Plenty of fruit, and
other provisions, I'A.— No regular inni,
ib. — Abundance of fish, 9 — Two conventa
of monks there, tA.-r-Monumcnt to the

Virgin Mary, ib.

The houses built, and

the streets paved, with lava, 10 — Some

pleasant society there, 12.
Santa-Cruz, a fort so called, on an island

off the coast of Brazil, 32 and 34.
Sea Voyage, ta.T from tedious, 4 — Various

amusements and employments upon it, 5.
Sepia, very large ones in the sea about Bra-
zil, 75 — Dangerous to people bathing, ib.
Serenades, frequent at Santa Catharina, 50.
Serpents, great numbers in Brazil, and very

venomous, 70.
Silver and Gold islands, sought for in vain,

193.
Societies, the Taboo ones at Nukahiwa, 121.
Storm, Account of a >VeadfuI one off the

coast of Japan, 214.
Straw mats, used as >* is and tables at Santa

Catharina, 60.
Sea-mews, immense quantities on the shores

of Kamschatka, 196.
Sugar-canes, abundance in the island of

Nukahiwa, 106 — And in Owhyhee, 188.

Ta&oo societies at Nukahiwa, 121 — Objects
of Taboo enumerated, 1.33.

Tapioca, or cassava.root, a principal article
of food at Santa Catharina, 36 — Manner
of preparins; and eating it, 61.

Tattooing, the people at Nukalijwa particu-
larly remarkable for it, 1 16 — Considered
as a badge of distinction among them,
1 17 — Made a profession by particular per-
sons, t&. — Manner in which it is perform-
ed, 1 18 — The women very little tattooed,
120 — Explanation of most of the figures
used ia it. Introduction, xv.

% ;

i N D »; X.

Tauas, or prlaits of Nukahiwii, great cat.
erj of hutoan flesh, 1 19— The popular be-
lief in their kuoulalgo of mqgic, 157.

Tea, a particular sort used at Santa Cutha.

rina, 44.

Teneriff'Cy island of, arrival of the Russian
shipi tliure, 7— The wines, 8— A great
deal of Teneriffe wine sold as Madeira, ib.
Brandy scarce there, ib. — Evident marks
of volcanoes in yarious parts of the island,
10 and 20— The climate very mild, 11 —
Doninican monastery there, 1^ — Convent
of nuns, 13 — Hospitality of a citizen
there, i6. — Heighth of the peak, 17.,

Tola, balsam of, prepared at Sania Catha.
riua, 43.

Tschingodsi, Prince, at Japan, Iiis splendid
boat, IbA — The Russian ambassador re.
. turns in it on board the ship, 317.

Virgin Marj/y a monument to her at Santa.

Cru3, 9.
Volcanoes^ several craters of, about the island

of Teneriflfe, 30. — Flaming ones on thp^

coast of Kamschatka, 195 — A remarka.

ble one upon the Island of Jcsso, 33S —

Another remarkable one among the Ku.

rile islands, 346.
Vulcan''! Island^ bought in vain in the Pacific

Ocean, 209.

Uvsuluy Santa, wuch hutiuurcd tt Tone.
ritre, 13.

•-•■*,,W. , ■■;';^,

fVaikai, a sort of food mada from the bread.

fruit, 124.
lV(tlk, description of one made at Japan for

the Russian ambassador, 230.
Washington's Islands, or the Now Marque. ;

sas, arrival of the ship there, 86 — l)e.

scription of thf> group of islancs, 100—.

Tabular view of thorn, 102 — Clinialo, and

course of the sfasuns^ 103 —Prevailing

winds, ib, — Productions of these iitlauds,

100 — Beauty and fine form of the inhabi.

tanis, 108.
ffhale./miicrij, its imp<>rtancc at Santa Ca-

tharina, 64— Diiferont ettablishmcuts in

Brazil for cairyin(( it on, ib.
Women of Japan, large parties come out to

see the Russian ship, 248.
Wood, a sort imperTiour to worms, said to

grow at Owhyhee, 188. '

Xit''i0^fl(ea, a very venomous serpent in Bra.
zil, 70— Smell said to boomittedfrom it,71.

t,»"«riit'@ai

Upott, a remarkably tall inhabitant of Nn.
kahiwa, 109.

Zoophjftts, a great variety seen by the author
in the Atlantic, 29 — And between Owby.
bee and Kamschatka, 191. .j^^^v

ff-7>j: "■

THE KNB.

B. Clamkb, Priater, WcU-Stntt, Loc^Ua.