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WHOSE C O M M K R C I A L ERUDITION AND O F F I C f A L STATION, RENDER HIM T II E B E S T JUDGE, A M D> T II C R E F O R E, THE MOST HONOURABLE PATRON, «F ALL WORKS WHICH TF.ND TO PROMOTE THE INTERESTS, AND ENLARGE THE BOUNDARIES, OF BRITISH COMMERCEi THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED, WITH THE GRFATEST RESPECT, BY HIS LORDSHIP' % MOST OBLIGED, I AND FAITHFUL HUMBLE SERVANT, ik y O H N M E A R E S. -m ::i^: ..L..... \i a e t g F 1< P c tl fa R E. rp II E wiflies of friends, — the political circumftances of the moment, — and, as I have been made to believe, the public expedation, have induced me to add the following Voyages to thofe which have already been publifhed, to improve the navi- gation and extend the commerce of the Britifh Empire. — I do not pretend to be the rival, — but rather confider myfelf an humble fol- lower of thofe eminent navigators whofe reputation is become a part of the national fame ; ;ind though I may be permitted, as it were, to envy their fuperior ' ;";ots and advantages, I moft fin- cerely add my feeble teftimor*^. to that merit, which has ranked them among the illuibious names of my country. Indeed I feel it a duty I owe myfelf, as well as to moderate the fanguine expedation which may have arifen refpefting the hiftory It 'I I '.*.*: liMMii^ VI B. i) of thofc Voyages In which I have been engaged, and may be faid to have conduced, to ohl'erve, that they were Voyages of Com- MERCK, and not of Discovery ; and that whatever novehy they may poiTcfs, or original information they may beftow, arofc out of> and form, as it were, an incidental part of a commercial under- taking. if ) The veflcls committed to my command, were fitted out in the ports of the Eaft, by the commercial zeal of Britilh fuhjefts in that part of the globe. — It was my office, under their fpirited and confi- dential encouragement, to explore new regions of Trade; — the interell therefore of thofe patriotic merchants and gentlemen, who had en- trulled a very confiderable property to my care and controul, and the honour of gaining a fmall portion of that reputation which is due to thofe who promote the extenfion of the Britifh commerce,^ were the fole incentives to my zeal, and alone fupported me under the difficulties, and amidft the dangers 1 encountered in difcharging my duty. When I was ftruggling with the ibrms of the Pacific Ocean, — when I was locked up in ice, and fuffering the accumulated wretchednefs of that fituation on the fliores of America, — or when I was engaged in advancing the principal objc£k of the Voyage, — and availing myfelf of any accidental opi^rtunity which occurred, of exploring thofe dubious coalls, I little tiiought it would be my future lot to give the hiftory of this part of my maritime life to the world. — If I had looked forward to the poffibility of fuch an event, I (hould I mn ( B. vn I fhould have enlarged my oblervatlons, and been more minutely attentive to a variety of objefts which were but curlbrily remarked ; and qualified rayfelf, during every part of my Voyages, to have given them all the interell they were capable of receiving, and all the information ihcy were capable of producing. But without endeavouring to deprecate criticifm by an affected humility, or defying it by an unbecoming confidence, I lliall venture to exprefs my hopes, — that this Volume will be found to contain information ufeful to commerce, and inllru6tions which future navigators may not difdain to confider ; that the following pages will afford fome entertainment to men who are curious in examining the various modes of human life ; and that there are many paffiges in them which will heighten the feelings of thofe who " (it and think on what a failor fuffers." The Memoir on the China Trade, &c. mull fpeak for itfelf : — The Obfervations I have ventured to make on the podibility of a North Well Paffage, muil alfo be fubmitted to the candid confidera- tion of invelVigating minds. — It is, however, proper to add, that in fupporting my opinion on that fubjeft, I have had occafional recourfe to the corroborating arguments of Mr. Dalrymple, in his admirable pamphlet on the Fur Trade, &c. t That every poffible attention has been employed to render this Work, in fome degree, worthy of the public favour, will, I trull, appear I to I III . — i . iii^ V* Vlll P R B P A C B. to every candid reader of it. — For its inaccuracies, though, I truO, they will not be found to be very numerous, I muft rell for excufe on the very great hafle in which it was neceflarily prepared to meet the public impatience ; — and I am difpofed to flatter myfelf that the indulgence I afk will not be denied me. Ntvtmiir 1 6, 1790* JOHN MEARES. t ■'! , 7' ]' An :' «►! 'r:*:, ] nn } .f..!!' /'i'T'jv; K)t.. JloV, f,^^/^' I , 1 . • •/ ' 'V, >L LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES. N A NTRIM, Mod Noble Marquli of ^^ Arran, Right Hon. Earl of Annaly, Right Hon. Lord Anneflcy, Right Hon. Richard Adams, Mr. Aftcll, VVm. Thornton Efq. Clapham Alexander, Robert Efq. Banker Allen, John Efq. Auft, G. Efq. Secretary of State's Office Aflbclated Tinners in the County of Corn- wail, 20 Copies B Buckingham, The Mod Noble Marq. of Banks, Sir Jofeph, Bart. Prefident of the Royal Society Bruhl, His Excellency Count, Saxon AmbaiTador Baffet, Sir F. Bart. TebUy Park, Cornzvall Bayntun, Sir Edward, Bart. Beale, Daniel Efq. Ch'iHa Bcllland, Mr. Great Marlborough -ftrtet Brook, Mr. Birmingham Bowatcr, Captain Hampton-court Brook, George Efq. Brown, Auguftus Efq, Bride, Patrick Efq. Bank Dircftor, Ireland Burfton, Bcrcsford Efq. King's Counfel Brabazon, Capt. Lambert of the Navy Barrett, Rev. John Ball, John Efq. 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Kennington Lane Fofter, Robert Efq. Fitzhugh, Thomas Efq. China Fitzhugh, William Efq. China Fox, G. C. Efq. Falmouth, Cornwall Fox, George Efq. Perran, ditto Fox, Edward Efq. ff^adt-bridge, ditto Freire,Chev. de, Portuguefe Minifter, aC Fry, William Efq. fFallingtonf Surty Felix, D. Efq. CentoH J — LIST OF SUBSCRIBER.^ Fifher, Mr. Richard Newcaftle Fawkener, William Efq. Clerk of the Privy Council Frafer, James Efq. Goldtn-fquare Faulder, Mr. Bookfeller, 1 1 Copies G Gosford, Right Hon. Lord Vifc. Gould, Sir Charles Bart. Horfe Guards Grant, Hon. John, Chief Juftice of JmaUa Gel I, Captain Upper fVimpok-fireet Gray, Richard Efq. Somerfet Place Garnaulr, Captain Goff, Jofeph Efq. Gautier, Cornelius Efq. Gray, Dr. William Gould, William Efq. Grote, George Efq. TbreadneeMe-firett Gregor, Francis Efq. Refiormel-park^ Corn. Goddard,AmbrofeEfq. M.P. Saville-row Gordon, Robert Efq. Clarges-Jlreet Gardner, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies H Hawkefbury, Right Hon. Lord Howard Right Hon. 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Surry-Road Urquhart, James Edward Efq. Molding Vernon, Mr. Bookfeller, a Copies w Weftmoreland, Rt. Hon. Earl of. Lord Lieutenant of Ireland Winchelfea, Right Hon. Earl of Wentworth, Right Hon. Lord Vifc. Wolfe, Right Hon. Arthur, Attorney General of Ireland Willis, Rev. Mr. Tenterden-flreet Wilkinfon, Thomas Efq. Clapham Wilbraham, Roger Efq. Williams, Thomas Efq. Adelphi Whitchoufe, Edward Charles Efq. Wilkinfon, Abraham Elq. Ward, Charles Efq. Wiifon, Rich. Efq. George-ftr. Hanover -fi. Walford, Mr. Red Lion-fquare Wight, Rev Ofborne Bridewell Hojpital Wigglefworth, John Efq. Scotland-yard Wheelwright, George Efq. White Mr. and Son, Bookfellcrs, 6 C. WhieWon, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies Walter, Mr. ditto. Charing Crofs, 6 C. Y Yelverton, Right Hon. Lord Chief Baron, Exchequer, Ireland dk 1 ' TABLE OF CONTENTS. I 1 V 'I \ 6 JNTRODUCTORY VOYAGE of the Ship liooTK.A» /rom Calcutta to •* the North Weft Coaft of America, intbe Tears l^}%fimdl'JZ^. — ' » OBSERVATIONS on the probable Exiftence of a North West Passage, zli Some ACCOUNT of the TRADE between the North Weft Coaft of America andO)iua, fcff. — — — — — Ixxi CHAP. I. Preparations far the Fayage.—Hanna, a Prince of the Ifland of Atooi^ and other Natives ^ the Sandwich Iftes embark.'—Cbamffer of Tianna. — Complement of the Crew of both Ships, — ^antity of Cattle ^ ^c. embarked for the Sandwich Iftes.'— Departure of the Felice md IPHiGSMiA/rvm China. mm — — i C H A P. II. Tie IpHicENiA fprings her Foremaft.'—Pq[fage to the Philippines.— Sail along the Coaft of Luconia.'—Pafs Goat Ifland, the Iftes of Luban, Ifland ofMindoro and the Calamines* Scurvy breaks out on board the l]fHionviA.~-Pafs the Ifland of Panay.— Mutinous Co»-. duff of the Crew on board the Felice, ^c. — — — is CHAP. III. Sicknefs of the Sandwich Iftanders.— Death of Winee s her CbaraHer, ^c.—Deftrutlion tf Cattle.— 'Iflands of Baftlan and Magindanao. — The Ships anchor off" the latter.— ne Car- penters and Party fent on Shore to cut a Maft, i^c.—Lofs of a China Man.'—SpaHiardt fent on hoard to compliment the Ships*— Both Ships moor off Fort Caldera.— Behaviour cjf the Spanifh Governor, i£c. — — — .. 2^ CHAP. IV. Reception at Samboingan.— Friendly Behaviour of the Governor, (Sc. —He viftts the Ships, i^tt— The Jkuc^ prepares t9 put to Sea.-^Lo/es an Anchor and departs for America* ot r*ge 34 TABLE OF CONTENTS. America.'-^ome Account of Magindanao, ^(.—'Aftronomicd Oi/ervatious, Anchoraget (Sc. — the Fillage of Samboingan. — Spanijb Force and Power.-— Defcription of a Ball given ly the Governor, and the Manners of the People. — Nautical Obfervations on the P(^age between the China Seas and the Northern Pacific Ocean. — Danger of navigating the Q>ina Seas. — Account o/the feveral Pajfages between the two UccanSf with Direc tions, ^c.—Pajfage between Formofa and the Philippines.-— Bajbee IJles .•—Defcriplion of them. -mm — — — — C H A P. V. Departure of the Felice from Samboingan.'— Pafs the Felice* s IJles. — Mention of the Or- ders and Injlru£i ions given by the Merchants Proprietors for performing the Voyage. — Extraordinary Change in the Teniper of the Buffaloes received on board. — Pafs the Ijland ^Magindanao. — RapiSty of the Currents. — Efcape the Ijland of Providence. — Pafs the *tahur IJlands. — Ijland of Sanguir.— See the North Cape. — Impojjibility of Weathering it. — Invariablenefs of the Trade IVinds in the Pacific Ocean.— Bear up to Leeward of the North Cape.— Pafs the Ijland Riou.—Tbe Channel between Morintay and the Ijland of JeloUt— 'Fragrance of the Air.'— Pafs the Southern Extremity of Morintay.— Reach the Sea.— The Latitude of Morintay afcertained. — _ — 6z C H A P. VI. Shifs Courfe purfued to the Eajhvard^—Gtrrentsfet her to the Ijland of lVagiew.—Symp~ toms oftbeScurvy among the Crew — IVind veers,f6rtbefirft Timet to the North Weft^—. Pafs IVagiew and the dangerous Tatee IJles. — Freewill IJles feen.— Natives come on board.— Their Joy at feeing Iron.— 'Some Account of thofe IJles.— 'Their Latitude and Longitude^ (dc. — Tbejlrong Currents in their Vicinity, — ^^ 74 CHAP. VIL FMreme Heat of the IVediher. — Very tempeftuous.— Spring the Foremajl*—Lofs of fome of the Cattle. — Lofe all the Goats. — DeftruUion of many of the Plants intended for the Sand- wich Ijles. — Reafonsfor pointing the Ship's Courfe to the North IVeJi, i^c. — Mode of viHualling the Crew. — Occupations on Board.— Intention of Building a Vejfel of fifty Tons in King George's Sound. — Carpenters complete her Moulds and Model. — Cbinefe Carpen- ters ignorant of Sbip-building. — Great Burthen of the Chinefe Junks. — Party feleifed to remain in King George's Sound. — Experience the Tail of a Tuff'oon. — Change of the Alon- foons. — Terrible Effeils ofTuffoons in the Chinefe Seas and Northern Pacific Ocean. '■'''- CHAP. VIII. Land/een, but prevented from approaching it — Difcvoery of IJlands, which we named Gram- pus Ifles. — Feel tbefVeatber extremely cold, with the probable Reafon qf it.— Number of ... . Birds 83 m % >ai«. r- I-* ' I '— ' \<>i '*! TABLE OF CONTENTS. Birds ften.—'Pafs by great ^antities of Reck-iveed. — Difeover aftmpenitus Reekf wbieb ivf named Lot's Wife. — The Rafter of an HoHfey auda Piece of Came feen Jhating on the ff^.Uer. — Tempejtuous IVeather. — H^eatber becomei ftormy as the AmerieoH Coaft is ap^ proacbed. — Crofs the Tracks of the Refolution and Difcovery.—^Error of the Ship's Reck' c:iii!g,^c. — A Sea Pan-ot feen for the ftrj} Time. — Extraordinary Brightnefs in the Ah mofphnr, ami to zvhat Caufe attributed. — Tlx Oktft of America feen. — Princefs Royal fails uit of King George's Sound, — Dijirefs of the Felice, fcff — Anchor in Friendly Cove, III King George's Sound. — — — ~" 93 CHAP. IX. The ccmmodiotis Situation of Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound.— Great Numbers of the Natives affemble to view the Ship.-^Tbe Joy ofComekela on his Arrival, (^c.—Hannapa a Chief, comes on board. — ComeL'/a prepares to go onJhore.—His Drefs, i^c. — Employ- vients of ibe Crciv .—The Arrival of Maquilla, Chief of King George's Sound, with Cal- licim, a Perfon the next in Rank to him.— A Defcription of their Dreffes, and the Cere^ monies they praHifed on feeing the Ship. — Leteoe obtained to build an Houfe and Veffel.—' Callieum attaches himfelf to the Ship, and is appointed Proleflor of the Party on fbore, by Maquilla. — An Hmife built.^'Keel of a Feffellaid. — Some Account of the Murder of Callieum by the Spaniards, in the following Tear. — — 108 C H A P. X. Methods employed by the Knives to advance the Price of Sea Otter Skins. — Condull of Co- mekela — Made a Chief through our Inftuence — His Marriage. — The Magnificence of the Entertainment on the Occafton. — Maquilla and his Chiefs affeil our Drefs and Manners, • Valuable Prefent of Maquilla. — A Grindjione folen. — An human Hand offered for Sale. — Narrow Efcape of the Natives on the Occajion. — Melancholy Lofs of Part of the Crew of the Imperial Eagle, in lyZj.—Sufpicion that Maquilla is a Cannibal. — Extraor- dinary Pillow of Callieum. — The Inhabitants of Friendly Cove remove to a fmall Dijtanee. — — — — — 119 , . , c H A P. xr. Ship prepares to put to Sea.— Pinnace ftolen by the Natives. — Impojftbility of recovering her. —Some Uneajineffes on board the Ship. — Officers and Party intended to be left en fbore, landed. — Provijions made for equipping the new Veffel. — A formal Vifit to Maquilla, and Renewal of the Treaty, t^e.—He is made acquainted with the probable Time of the IPHi- 6BMIa's Arrival. — Requefts a Letter for the Captain. — Our Aflonijbment at his Know- ledge, and by what Means it was obtained. — Story of Mr. Maccay. — Callieum arrives from hunting the Sea Otter. — Articles, which bad belonged to Sir Jofepb Banks, in bis PoJfeJfioH.^'Tbe Ship pias to feOi^^Plmt of future Proceedings, (^c» — 127 CHAP. I- hi TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAP. XII. ne Chiefs Hanna and Detootche vifit the Ship on berfVay to the Rejidence of H^icanani/h^ i^c.—'Wicananifh pilots the Ship into bis Rotdjfed. — Numbers of the Inhabitants come off to the Ship —The Country and Village of IVicanani/b defcribed. — Vifit paid to the Chief, —Defcription of bis Houfe.— -Their Ingenuity a fubjeil of Ajionifhment.—Immenfe Family of kVicananifh. — His fVives ,- their Beauty^ ^c. — Bri/i Trade carried on ■Kith the Natives. — Murder of a Stranger by the People of the Village. — 7he Ship obliged by bad Weather to enter the Inner Port, named Port Cox. — — ^•111* '3+ CHAP. XIII. The People of IVicananifh left civilized than thofe at Nootlta. — Certain ncceffary Precautions occafion a Coolnefs between us and the Qjief. — Good Underflanding redored. — Ufe of Fire Arms known tothefe People. — The Village removes to a f mall Dijlunce. — Treaty between tVicanani/h, Hanna and Detootche.— Good Confequences refulting to us from the Treaty.— Prefents made to and received from fVicananifh. — Prcfent arrives from King George's Sound, ^c — Prepare for Sea. — The Felice proceeds on her Voyage.'—Defftiption of Port Cox, i^c. — — _. — _ 144 CHAP. XIV. Purfue our Courfe to the Southward. — Numerous Villages feated on the Shore.— The Inhabi- tants come off to the Ship. — Dif cover the Straits of John de Fuca. — Their Extent and Situation. — Tatootcbe ctmts on board. — Bad Behaviour of the Natives. — Purfue our Courfe along the Coafl. — Short Account of the Strait t of John de Fuca. — Paffed the Ijland of Ta- tootcbe and numerous Villages. — Dangerous Coafl Violence of the South Eafl Storms. — Cape Flattery. — Village of Claffet. — Ship enters the Bay of ^tccubjhe. — Savage Appear- ance of the Place.— See the Village of ^teenuitctt. — Dcflrti.'/ioi: Ifle — Danger if the Ship, ^c. — — — — — 150 CHAP. XV. Our Progrefs along the Coafl. — Dif cover Shoalwater Bay. — Natives come off'. — Their boneft Dealing. — Purfue our Courfe. — Deception Bay. — Difference between the Spanifb Charts of Maurellt and the real Situation of the Coafl. — Beautiful Appearance of the Country.-— Pafs ^ickfand Bay and Qipe Look-out — See three remarkable Rocks.— Clqfe our Pr>ygrefs to the Southward. — Future Plan rf Proceeding. — Parts left unexplored by CaptJin Cook, nnv vifited. — Purfue our Courfe to the North. — Anchor in Port Effingham. — A Dtfcrif- tion (fitf bSc. — — — — _ 1 6 1 CHAP. XVI. Take Pojpjj^a of the Strailsofde Fuca in tb* Nam of the King of Great Britain Vfited by the Natives.— Long-boat equipped and fent on. an Expedition. — Stranocrs refort to the Ship, c —Anxiety \iA, TABLE OF CONTENTS. FW f 'V' H iiii v{ — Anxiety on Acouni of the Lon^-boat, zvhkh at length arrives. — Rea/on of btr quick Return. — Conflici with the Natives of the Straits of de Fuca. — Dijlance advanced up tkt , Stritiis of de Fucu. — Pojitioii of them. — Huiiun Heads offered to fale. — Prepare for Sea.-— Leave tort F.ffitigham.—Accouitt oj the Port and Sound. — Progrefs of the nezv f''effel, i^c. 173 CHAP. XVII. Anxiety of the Party on Shore. — Reports fprcid by the Natives. — Improvement made In the Hoiife, y^. — /Iflcnijlment of the Natives at the Building of the I'ejfel. — Our Obfervation of the Sjbbdth an Oijjrl ofCurufitytn them, — Some Kmnckdge of their Religion derived front thence. — Dcjign of pro( ceding a^ain to Port Cox. — Our Intentions fi up ated. — Mutiny on Boatd. 1'he Peijbns loncerned in it turned on Shore, i£c, r^ -^ ^83 CHAP. XVIII. ConduH of the Party on Shore, reJpeSliitg the Mutiny. — Ihe Mutineers go to live with Maquilla and Qillicum — A>c f ripped of their Ctoaths, and made to work. — Princefs Rcyal feen in the Offing. — Prepare for Sea. — ^/// King George's Sound afecond Time. — Maquilla and Callicum prepare for IVar. — Arms lent to them. — Strength of Maquilla' s Forces. — He departs on bis Expedition to the Northward.— -Injlruilions given to tbe Parly on Shore, ^c. -^ 190 CHAP. XIX. Sail for Port Cox. — Meet the Princefs Royal. — Anchor in Port Cox. — fficananifl} removed to Clioquatt. — Long-boat fent there with Prefents, isfc. — Defcription ofOioquatt. — fVicoHamfb - arrives on board, to take his Leave. — His Son propofes to embark with us, which we decline. — Put to Sea, and Anchor again in King George's Sound. — Arrival of the Iphi- OENiA. — Tianna's affeSHonate Behaviour, t^c. — Arrival of Maquilla and Callicum from their Expedition, idc. — — — — — 199 C H A P. XX. f%e Crew of tbe Iphigenia employed on tbe new Feffel. — Inhabitants prepare to retire to their fVinter garters. — Dijpojitions relative to the exiled Part of the Crezv. — Maquilla and CaUi~ cum pay us a Fifit previous to their Departure. — A Sail fen in tbe Offing, which proves to be tbe American Sloop fVaJhington.—Some Account of ber Voyage, bft.—The new Feffel named ' and launched. — Orders delivered to //*; Iphigenia. — Tianna embarks on board her.—^it King George's Sound, and proceed to the Sandwich IJlands — — an CHAP. XXI. General Account of the Nations feen on the North Weflem Coafl of America. — 7beir Situation, Villages, Population, ^c. — Knowledge of ihe People to tbe Southward of ^eenhithe, in a great Degree coi^i'^ural. — Some Account of tbe American Continent, from Cape Saint James to tbe Southward.— Qimates^^eaJotts-^Windi — Slorms'—Harbours-'Naviga- tin, 6ff. — — _ — — ag< CHAP, TABLE OF CONTENTS. ft' CHAP. XXII. Account of the DiJlriU o/Noolka continued, — Fege/ai/e ProduUions. — Great PUnty tflVild Fruits — Efculent Roots, &c. — Quadrupeds— Deer — Foxes — Martens — The Ermine — Squirrel, Wf. — Marine Animals : — The fVbale, Sword- Fi/lb, Seals, (^e. —Particular Account of the Sea Otter, — Various Kinds of Birds, — Aquatic Fowls, — Fifb of various Kinds. — Manner of taking fame of them. — Reptiles.— 'InfeSls. — Minerals, — OtHjeiluns concerning Mines in this Country, £j?f. (£c. — — ,_ 236 CHAP. XXIII. ^tbe Perfons of the Inhabitants defcribed, — the Manner in which they treat their Infant Children — their Averfton to Beards. — Drejfes, Male and Female, — Various Kinds of them. — Their Majks, and the Ufes ofthem,—Difpofition and Temper of the Nativcs.-^An horrid Cuftem of kilting a Slave every Month, for the Purpofe of eating biai. — The Cere- monies ufedott this Occafion, — Circumftance which led to the Difoiery of this Pra^ice, ^f, 249 CHAP. XXIV. Employments of the Men ofNootka. — They confift, in general, of bunting different Marine and Laud Animals. — Killing the JVhale, idc. defcribed. — MelboJ of bunting the Sea-Olter, the Seal, ^c. — Their more domeftic Occupations. — Making Implements for Fijbing and tVar.— Their Canoes : — A Defcription of them, — A particular Manner of I'i//.i. i 1 ' I: .> T/yy/rt/ ^y /wo Canirs. — Si-hJ ibe Jolly-boat on Sborr, to try for Fi/h.-See Cape Grevilte. — Pa/s the Barren IjLnds. — Receive a Viftt from a Ri^jjian and fome Kodiak Hunters.— ^, Run up Qjok's River. — Commuiiicativi ivilb tbe Natives.— li^eigb anchor, and fleer to the South End of MoHlagite Ijland. — Stand in for Snug corner Bay, iJc. (Jc. — 301 CHAP. XXVIII. Sail from Snug-corner Hay. — Pafs Kaye's IjlanJ. — Clfc in ivith Cape Suckling. — Send tbe Long-loat into Bbrring's Bay. — See IjlaiiJs of Ice. — Purcbafe a great Number of Sea - Otter Skins, isc. ff tbe Natives of Crofs Cape. — Ajingular Example of tbe Power of tbe Women among tbem.—'Steer into S^a-Oller Bay.— Pafs Douglas Ijland. — Pouter a Bay, called Meares's Bay, — Pafs Rofe Point. — Join tbe Vv.iici at Nootka^ i^c, — 317 CHAP. XXIX. Tbe IpHioF.NiA and N. W. America leave Nootka Sound. — Arrive off tbe (/land o/Mozvee. — Tianna receives his Brother on board, — Airive nffOwhyhee. — A Vi/itfrom tbe King.— Anchor in Karak.ikooa Bay. — Ceremony of receiving Captain Douglas on Shore. — Tbe N. W. America and Iphigenia part from their Cahles, — Sifpefi the Natives of ibis A^l of Treachery. — The Divers employed, and recover tbe Cables, £j?f. — Tiauna leaves tbe Ship, to fettle in Ozvbybee. — Account of tbe late Change in the Government there, i:fc, 334 CHAP. XXX. Arrive off Woaboo. — Reception given by Titeeree to Captain Douglas.— Proceed to Atooi.—^ Tabeo, the Sovereign, retires up the Country. — Returns, and vifits tbe Iphigenia.— Captain caulivied of fccrct Defigns againft him. — Proceed towards Onccheow. — Forced by contrary Gales to If^otilxo. — Arrive at Owbybee. — Alliance entered into by the Princes of tbe neighbouring Ijlands. — Affijiance given by Captain Douglas to tbe Sovereign of Owbybee, and Tianna. — ^a't Owbybee. — Difpute among the Seamen at llymoaBay. — Proceed to Oneeberjufor Tams. — ^it the Sandwich Iflands, &c. — — 347 CHAP. XXXI. Proceed to tbe N. IK Coaft of America. — Pafs Bird Ifland. — Arrive at Nootka Sound. — Ar- rivalofa Spanijb Ship.— Seizure of tbe Iphigenia, i^c. — She is obliged to leave Nootka, and proceeds to the Northward — Anchors off' a Village, named Fort Pitt. — Defeription of Buccleugb's Sound. — Anchor in Haines's Cove. — An Account of Mac Int ire's Bay. Examine Cox's Channel. — A Defign formed by the Natives to get Poffcffion of the Ship Trade with tbe Natives of Tatatue. — Return to the Sandwich Ijlands. — Efeape from a Defign of tbe King and Chiefs of Owbybee. — Proceed to China.— -Arrive at Macao, &?<■. 359 TABLES of tbe Route of the Felice, ^e.—The Variation of tbe Compass ; and Meteorological Obsbrvatiohs during tbe Voyage — «^ 473 APPENDIX, containing Official Papers, (^c. [ ' '"^ " ' AN INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE O F T H B NOOrKJ.—CAV'^, MEARES, ■FROM CALCUTTA, TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, In the Years 1786, and 1787. ■h IT might, perhaps, prove unintereftlng to the reader were I to enter upon the hiftory of this commercial expedition, — or to dwell on the patriotic fpirit of many diftinguilhed perfons at Bengal which fupported it, as well as thofe honour- able marks of zealous friendship and liberal confidence, which accompanied its confignment to my care. — It might alfo be equally unimportant to others to be in- formed of the oppofition it received, — the arts employed to fruftrate it,— and the various, as well as painful difficulties I had to furmount in the arrangement of it :-rI fhall, therefore, proceed at once to relate the principal occurrences of the voyage which it occafioned. On the 20th of January 1786, two veflels were purchafed for the purpofe of this expedition, which were named the Nootka, of 200 tons, and the Sea Otter, of 100 tons. The former was commanded by myfelf, the latter by William Tipping, a lieutenant in the Royal Navy. /I By .\# 11 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. By tlic 20th of Tcbruary, tluy were ready for fea, when two offers were made to thccommittc-, who were appointed to arrange the iicccflary preparation* for the voyage, on the pait of the general body of proprietors : the one was to frtiglit t!ic Soa Otter to Malacca with opium, which would be a gain of about three thouf.ind rupees ; — The committee, therefore, did not hefitatc an hiAant in accepting it ; and the Sea Otter was immediately difpatched on her voyage :— From Malacca Captain Tipping was to proceed to the North Weft Coaft of America, and tlie ncceflhry arrangements were made for our meeting there. k k '- \ i t/. ^ m The otlier offer was to convey Mr. Burke, Pay-mafter General of the King's Forces in India, with his fuite, to Madras, for which he propofed to pay the fum of three thouHmd rupees. — This advantage was not to be refufcd, and accordingly I iiad the honour of conveying him thither. On the ad of March, we got under fall and proceeded as fiir as the governor** garden, where in the evening we received, Mr. Burke and his fuitc oi> board. On the 12th of March we loA fight of land, and proceeded on our voyage to Madras, where we arrived on the 27tli, without the intervention of any occurrence worthy of relation. — Our paflage was cftecmed extremely quick at that particular llafon of the year. — After landing our paflengers and procuring additional fupplics of ftorcs and provifions, by the kind afllftance of Jof^ Dupree Porcher, E(q. we prepared to put to fea, which we accordingly did on the 7th of April, the very day that his Excellency Sir Archibald Campbell arrived to take upon him the government of Madras. At this place we received every mark of kindnefs, attention and encouragement. Nor among the many to whom we are ftill grateful for favour and for friendfliip, can we hefitate ta mention the names of Mr. Burke, Mr. Porcher, and Mr. Boyd, as well as to acknowledge the peculiar obligations we received from his Excellency Go- vernor Davidfon, It INTRODUCTORY VOYAC. F,. m Tf may not Iw jinpropcr to mention th;it, at the time of oiir leaving Bengal, »n kinds of ftores wcil i'o extremely fcarce, that the Ihip was hiit b.ircly cquijip »1 for one year; and as for proviiionj, \\c had not on board fullicicnt for twelve ni' itlis, and nothing ^vns more apparent thnn the impofllbility of completing a voyage of this nature in fuih a ftatc. Wc had, indeed, looked to Madras in fomc meafiirr', for the afliftance wc receivid, which was to compleat our equipment for eighteen montlis.* With rcfpcdl to the number i>i our crew wc were ftrongly manned, but tluy were chiefly of a defcription that ncccflity rendered acceptable. Tl»c whole amounted to forty Europeans, including the purfer, I'urgeon, five officers, and boatfwain, and ten lafcars whom we took in at Madras. But all our exertions were fruitlcfs in obtaining a carpenter, and the want of fuch an artizan was moft levcrcly felt iu every part of the v yage. It was the 23d of May before we arrived at Malacca : — our paflage wa» un- ufually tedious, and afforded time for the fcurvy to make its appearance. In tilii early part of our voyage we loft the boatfwain, who was one of the beft men in the (hip, and, in our fituation and circumftances, proved an irreparable misfortune. On our arrival at Malacca we were informed tliat Captain Tipping had failed for America, having complcated his bufmefs there. Here we wooded, watered and took in the neceflary refreshments, not only to fupply the provi- fions already exhauftcd, but to enable us to give every poflible afliftance to Captain Tipping, when we fhould meet him on the Coaft of America. On the a9th we put to fea, after faluting the Dutch Fort with nine guns, which com* plimeut was returned with an equal mark of refpefl. In a very few days wc effefted our entrance into the China Seas, and purfued our courfe with a ftrong South Weft Monfoon, till the zzd of June, when the Bafliee Iflands were feen bearing Eaft South Eaft half Eaft, diftant nine leagues. But it was the 26th before we could come to an anchor, at Grafton Ifle, which we then did, in a fmall and pleafant bay, in fix fathoms of water, and about a quarter of a mile from the ihore. ^ 2 This INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE, This bay is furrounded by high land, whicli is cultivated to the rum« mits, and the plantations, &c. being divided into inclofures neatly fenced in, afford a very pleafing view. A large village was lituated on a gentle eminence , near the water ; fine groves of trees were fancifully difperfed on the fides of the mountains, while a rapid rivulet glided through the valley ; the whole forming a fcene of uncommon beauty. About four years before, the Spaniards had taken pofTeffion of tliefe Ifles, in the expeftation of finding the bowels of them enriched with the precious metals. The governor and his garrifon, &c. treated us with great civility, nor did they, in the leafV, interfere with our little trading communications with the natives, — who appear to be a mofl inofFeniive race of people. VVe remained here four days, during which time we obtained great plenty of hogs, goats, du'cks, fowls, yams, and fweet potatoes, in return for unwrougbt iron. ® On the ift of July we took our leave of the Bafhee Iflands, and fleered to the North Eafl, a courfe along the Japan Ifles, but without feeing any land. The charts lay down ifles which we muft have gone over, according to the fituation in which they are placed. After pafling the latitude of 25° North, we had one continual fog, which Wiis oftentimes fo thick, that it was impoffible to fee the length of the veflll. On the ift of Auguft, having laid to the preceding night, we judged that we were near land, and in the morning, at daylight, we got fight of it, through the Fog Banks, when we found it to confift of the Ifles of Amluc and Atcha. We flood in for the former, and anchored there for two days, during which time we were vifited both by the Rufllans and the natives. In our pafTage to Ounalafchka we were driven among five iflands where dangers furrounded us on all fides, and without being able to fee our way, but we providentially cfcaped them. It had, indeed, been one continued fog ever fince we crolTed the latitude of 35°, and from that time we had not been able to make more than two obfervations. We very fortunately had a time piece on board, which proved of the greateft utility. The INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. t The five ifles among which we had been fo much embarraffed, are defcribed in Coxe's Ruflian Dllcovcrics by the names of Pat Sopka : — that writer alfo mentions the deftrudlion which many of the Ruflian Navigators have found between thefc iflcs ami Kamfchatka. They arc uninliabitcd, and fcem to be notliing more than huge maflls of entire rock. Two of them bear a flrong refemblauce to each other, and poflefs rather a correal form of a fugar loaf. On the 5th of Auguft in the afternoon we found ourfelves furroundcd by a great number of canoes, whic!', from the drefs and mariners of the people in them, we were certain muft belong to fon^e of the iflcs, though we imagined ourlclvcs to be too far to the Southward for them to come ofl". Tliis little fleet was engaged in the biifinefs of whale fifliing, and after flopping a fliort time to ex.imine'the vefl'cl, whicli they did with every appearance of extreme admiration, they left us and paddLd off to tlie Northward. We now ft:eered a little more to the Southward, as we fuppofcd that the current had iet us to the Northward of our reckoning. The fog continued to be fo very thick, that it was impoflible to fee any obje£t at twenty yards difl:ance from the fliip;— ^ but from the number of canoes we had pafl'cd, there was every rcafon to fup- pofc we were in the neighbourhood of land, which mufl, in all probability, have been theiflandof Amouchta. The following night we were alarmed by hearing the fiirge of the Tea upon the fliorc ; — we inftantly tacked, and when we had flood on about two hours, we were re-alarmed with the fame noife. We tacked again and as foon as it was day-light, we caught a glimpfe of the land, over the mafl:-head, which appeared to be covered with fnow. But the fog again became impervious to our fight, as it were, to cncreafe the horrid fufpenfc of our fituation. — During four days of gloom in our minds, as well as in the air, we were con- tinually endeavouring, but in vain, to obtain a paflage, but every way appeared to be blocked up againft us. The hoarfff dafliing of the lurge drove us from one fide, in order to be re-impelled by the (iime alarming warnings on the other l^: :ii •mk I ^"^f I'll 'yPr *i A VI INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. other. We had, Indeed, every reaibn to believe that we had pafled by fome narrow inkt hito a gulph furroiinded with fatal fliores, and from which there was no return but by the channel through which we entered. Though we were frequently within an hundred yards of the rocks, foundings were impraiSllcable, and the ilecpnels of the fliorc rendered our anchors of no ufe. li ' 4^. INTRaDUCTORY VOYAGE. more than one perfon. Thcfc canoes are generally about twelve feet in length,, fliarp at each end, and about twenty inches broad, tapering to a point : their depth in the center, where the man fits, is about twenty inches. The canoes of this make extend from the Araits of the two continents along the coaft as far as Cape Edgccumbe. Some of them are made to carry three perfons ; but, in general, not more than one or two. The frame is compofed of very thin ftrips of the pine wood,, faftened together with whale fincws, and is then covered with the Ikin of the feal or fea-cow, which is previoufly robbed of its hair. The bot- tom of the ikiu-frock, which the natives wear, ties over the hole of the canoe, where the man fits, and prevents the fmalleft drop of water from getting in* Tiiefe veflcls are paddled at a prodigious rate,, and go out in any weather. ' I) .1 ' / '' It was now the 28th of Auguft, and no advantage had yet arifen from the voyage ; but as we fuppofed ourfelves to be at the termination of the Ruffian fet- tlements,. and had a large track of coafl to run down, we expeiSted to have made an advantageous trade before the winter fet in, which was now haflrily approach- ing. With this defign, we purpofed to make one port to the Weftward of Cook's River,— and, in coafting along, we faw a large opening, which appeared to be formed by an ifland : we accordingly (leered in for it, — and* when we were in with it, it appeared of very great extent, taking a North Eafterly courfe. As we now thought ourfelves clear ©f the Ruffians,, we were in continual expe^a- tion of being vifited by the natives, and commencing the advantageous part of our voyage; though we are at a lofs how to reconcile it, that fo Urge a ftrait fhould not have been obferved by Captain Cook.. Having continued our courfe up it, about twenty leagues, a canoe came off to us from the Inland fide, witlv three people in it, one of whom came on board, who proved to be a Ruffiaa ieaman. — He was^a very intelligent man, and informed us that this was the ifland of Kodiak, that the crews of three galliots were on duty there, and that there was. another ifland of the fame name along the coaft. This INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. ct This intelligence was by no means pleaHng, as it dafhed at once all our hopes of obtaining any trade, at any intermediate place, between Cook's River and the Schumagin Ifles. We therefore continued our pafl'age through the ftraits, which were named Petrie's Strait, in honour of Wm. Petrie, Efq. and found it brought us out near that point forming Cook's River, and diftinguilhed by the name of Cape Douglas on Captain Cook's chart. Thefe (Iraits are upwards often leagues in length and about fifteen in breadth, and cut ofFa very large traft of continent from the former charts. We anchored under Cape Douglas, and foon after feveral canoes came off to us of the River Indians. They fold us two or three otter fkins* for which they received feme pieces of unwroiight iron, about a pound, perhaps, for each fkin. They appeared to be greatly rejoiced to fee us, and offered us every thing they had in their boats as prefents. Tliefe people by^ refufing tobacco plainly proved that they had no connexion with the Ruffians, and by frequently pronouncing the word EngliHi, Englifli, it appeared alfo that the Nootka was not the firft veffel of our country which had been feen by them. Indeed it afterwards appeared that the King George and Queen Charlotte from London had been ther« before us. The canoes very fhortly left us to go up the river in fearch of more (kins, and the following day we faw two large boats coming down the river, with about eighteen men in each. They proved to be Ruffians who had been up Cook's River on a trading voyage ; and each boat had a brafs field-piece with fmall arms for each man. They had left their fummer refidence which is the lower ifland in Cook's River, and were pro- ceeding to their winter quarters on the ifland of Kodiak. i It was now the 20th of September, and the weather extremely boifterous, fo that we determined to quit the river, where we had been detained by feveral heavy gales of wind, and proceed to Prince William's Sound, and, if prafticabic, to winter there. On our arrival at Snug Corner Cove, in Prince Wil- liam's Sound, as named by Captain Cook, the weather was very violent, and during the three days we lay there not a native appeared ; which circumftance led us to conclude, that the natives had retired from the coaft, or were gone to the South- B 2 ward I ;j I ■ — Ai- ^ INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. ward for the winter. In our excurfions on (hore, wc faw fbme wood which had been fiefli cut, and by an edge tool ; we alfo found a piece of bamboo, which fully fatisfied us that fome veflel muft have very lately preceded us; and as our appointed rendezvous, with our confort the Sea Otter, was at this place, we very naturally concluded that flie had been here, and was failed for China. . ) 'f fl •'■ This was a fituation pregnant with difficulties : — the coaft was to all ap- pearance without inhabitants, fo that if we remained here during the winter, thcic was no profpeft of our being able to procure trade or refreftiments. On the other hand, the bad weather had fet in, with continual gales of wind, accompanied with fleet and fnow; and if we quitted our prefcnt fituation, it was very doubtful whether we fliould be able to make another, and therefore be obliged to run for the Sandwich Ifles, which would, in all probability, have put an end to the voyjige, as our feamen were becoming extremely diflatisfied. In this fituation it was determined to prefer an inhofpitable winter in Prince William's Sound, to all the comforts of the Sandwich Iflands, from whence, it was with good reafon imagined, that it would have been a matter of great difficulty, if not wholly impra£licable, to perfuade the feamen to return to the Coaft o£ America. Under thefe difficulties wc laboured ; but as the objeft of the voyage and the intereft of the proprietors were deeply concerned in fupporting tha hardships which threatened us, and the mortifications we fliould experience,, we refolved to bear the one and to fubmit to the other. A very little reflediou' on the limited power of a mercantile officer, and the want of a due fubordination. in a mercantile fliip, will enable any one to believe that in remaining here, we were not at leaft deficient in zeal for the interefts of thofe who promoted, and fupported this commercial expedition. On the 4th day, f.veral canoes, came off to us, and the natives be- haved in a very friendly, and affiible manner. They mentioned feveral. Engllfli names, which appeared to be thofe of the crew of the Sea Otter.— They alfo made us undcrft.md that a veflel, with two marts, had failed from 3 tlicnce » 1/ i INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. x:ii thence but a few days before, and that they liad plenty of Ikins, which they explained to us, by pointing to the number of the hairs of their heads. They alfo informed us, after their manner, that if we would ftay, they would kill plenty of otters for U3 during the winter. Being now fatisfied that the Sound was inhabited, nothing but a good har- bour was wanting to determine us to ftay here during the fevere feafoi\ ; and the next day the boats found a very commodious one, about fifteen miles Eaft North Eaft, from where we lay. Accordingly, on the 7th of O^lober, the veflel was removed to the place appointed ; (he was then unrij^ged, and the people began to work on (hore to eredt a log-houfe for the armourers to work in ; which, from the prefcnt ftate of the veflc), might aUb be ufeful in con- taining lumber. The natives now favoured us with their daily vifits, and never failed to exert their very extraordinary talents in the art of thievery. They would em- ploy fuch a flight of hand in getting iron materials of any kind, as is hardly to be conceived. It has often been obferved when the head of a nail either in the Ihip or boats flood a little without the wood, that they would apply their teeth in order to pull it out. Indeed, if tlie diitcrent lofles we fuf- tained, and the manner of them were to be related, many a reader would have reafon to fufpeft that this page exalted the purloining talents of thefe people, at the expence of truth. It was now the middle of Oftober and we had colleifted a few fkins. The natives alfo affembled in greater numbers, and became fo very troublefome as to perplex us very much; in regard to the manner in which we fhould conduct our- felves towards them. Policy and humanity both inftrudlcd us to avoid, if. polfible, any violent correftives, but it very often happened, that our people who were employed on (hore in wooding and ereding the houfe, were obliged to come off to the fhip, as the natives would come down from the woods be. hind y J ^a. tlv INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. i hind them, and endeavour to take aw.iy whatever tools they had in ufe.'^-As the veflel lay fo near the place where the people were at work, that we could talk to them, we did not allow them fire-arms, unlefs they were accompanied with a careful officer, left an improper ufe fhould be made of them ; and we had hitherto found that the firing a mufquet from the fhip would at all times drive the natives away. On the 25th of O£lober, a large party of Indians vere perceived coming into the creek, and as there appeared to be a greater number than we had Teen aflem- bled before, we called to our people to come on board, and they not coming imme- diately, the Indians got up a-breafl of the veflel, and immediately landed where they were at work : — at the fame moment another party joined them from the woods.— As the natives in the canoes went on fhore in fpite of all our fignals to prohibit them, two of our guns were ordered to o<.' pointed at them, which had the defired efle£l ; as they were at this time endeavouring to take away the axes from our people on fhore. But on perceiving the preparations we were making, they cried out in their ufual manner, lauU-lauUy or friend, friend, and extended wide their arms as a token of amity. n 'I Having got all our people on board, it was thought to be a proper opportu- nity to difperfe the natives, who were now afTembled in fuch confiderable numbers, by fhewing them the power of our cannon, and accordingly a twelve pound <:.y had piopari.'d for their winter provillons. — Hut fince the 2d of November, the ice, from the veflll to tlie fhore, had been capable of bearing, and our people had commenced the air.uf'eincnt of Ikaiting and other diverfions on it, which not only afforded them confiderablc recreation, hut contributed INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. KvU contributed greatly to the prefervation of their health, till the fnow became as deep on the ice as it was on the Ihore. During the months of November and December wc all enjoyed an excellent (late of health. — ^The natives alfo continued their friendly behaviour to us, except in their incorrigible difpofitioii to dealing, which they never failed to indulge when any opportunity offered, and which the mod attentive vigilance on our part could not always prevent. The thermometer, during the month of November, was from 26° to a8°, and in December it fell to 20", where it continued the greated part of the month. We had now at noon but a very faint and glimmering light, the meri- dian fun not being higher than 6°, aiid that obfcured from us by hills 22* high to the Southward of us. While we were thus locked in, as it were, from the chearful light of day, and the vivifying warmth of folar rays, — no other comforts prefented thcmfelves to compenfate, in any degree, for the fcene of defolation which encircled us. — While tremendous mountains forbade almod a fight of the Iky, and cait their nofturnal fliadows over \is in the midd of day, the land was impenetrable from the depth of fnow, fo that we were excluded from all hopes of any recreation, fupport, or comfort, during the winter, but what could be found in the d»ip and in ourfclves.— This, however, was only the beginning of our troubles. ^ ( J The new year fct in with added cold, and was fucccedcd by fome very heavy falls of fnow, which laded till the middle of the month. Our decks were now incapable of rcfifting the intenfc freezing of the night, and the lower parts of them were covered aix jnfli thick with an hoary frod, that had all the appearance of fnow, notwithdanding three fires were kept condantly burning twenty hours out of the twenty-four ; fo that when they were fird lighted the decks were all afloat. For fome time we kept in the fires night and day, but the fmoke which proceeded from a temporary dove, made out of one of the C forges i.l] XVlll INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. forges, was fo very troublefome, that the people, who were now falHng ill, were fully convinced that this continual fmoke was the caufe of their ficknefs. After the heavy fall of fnow we had twelve down with the fcurvy, and towards the end of the month four died, and the number cncreafed to twenty -three who were confined to their beds, amongft whom was the furgeon, who was extremely ill. The firft officer on finding himfelf (lightly affedcd in the breaft, a fymptom which generally foreboded a fatal determination in a very few days, got rid of it by continually chewing the young pine branches, and fvvallowing the juice ; but, from the unpleafant tafte of this medicine, few of the fick could be prevailed upon to perfift ui taking it. , • At the latter end of February the diforder had encreafed, and no lefs than thirty of our people were fo ill tliat none of them had fufficient ftrength to get out of their hammocks : — four of them died in the courfe of the month.— Indeed, at this time, our necefTiiries were fo far exhaufted, that if the more violent fymptoms of the diforder had abated, there was a want of proper food &c. to complete the cure. Thefe melancholy circumftances were rendered more afBi(fling by the hopelefs minds of the crew ; for fuch was the general difcouragement amongft them, that they confidered the flighteft fymptom of the diforder to be a certain prelude to death. During the months of January and February the thermometer continued for the greater part at 15°, though it fometimes fell to 14°. Notwit' (land- ing this extreme cold, we were vifited as ufual by the natives who had no other cloathing but their frocks, made of the fkins of fea-otters and fcals, though chiefly of the latter, with the fur on the outfide But whatever pro- teftion thefe drefles gave to their bodies, their legs remained uncovered, and without any apparent inconvenience. — ^They appeared to be as much diftrefled for provifions as ourfelves, and as we had feveral ca(ks of the whale blubber which had been colle£ted for oil, they ufed, whenever they came on board, under a pretence that the weather was too Jboifterous for them to engage ia whale INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. kix whale hunting, to entreat a regale of this luxurious article ; which \vas al- ways granted to their great comfort and fatisfa£tion. — In their opinion it was owing to our not taking the fame delicious and wholefome nourifhmcnt, that fuch a terrible and alarming ficknefs prevailed amongft us. We were at firft very much furprifed at their being informed of the death of our people, and the places where we had buried them. — They particularly pointed to the edge of the (hore between the cracks of the ice, where with confiderable labour we had contrived to dig a (hallow grave for our boatfwain, who from his piping had attrafted their particular notice and refpedt. — \Vc indeed, at firft imagined that they contrived to watch thefe melancholy cere- monies in order to dig up the bodies for a banquet, as we had no doubt but that they were a canibal tribe. We however foon after difcovered that they obtained their intelligence from the conftant watch they kept, to prevent any other bands of natives from coming to trade with us, without giving them a fliare of their profits, whatever they might be. As they paid us daily vifits, we at firft: imagined that their place of habitation was at no very great diftance, though we had never been able to difcover it ; but we now learnt that they were a vagrant people, without any fixed place of abode, fleeping where they could, and when they had the inclination; and that they made no diftin£tion between the night and the day, wandering about as much during the one as the other.— They never made any fires in the night for fear of being furprifed by thofe tribes with whom they feemed to be in a continual ftate of hoftility, and who muft have come acrofn the ice to attack them ; for as they had no knowledge of the ufe of fnow (hoes, the woods were whollv tmpalTable. «» The month of March brought no alleviation of our diftrefles :— It was as cold as the months which preceded it. In the early part of it thcie foil a great deal of fnow, which cncrcafed the number of the fick, and the violence oi ihc ^ * difordcr XX INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. e diforder in thofe who were already affli£ted by It. — In the courfc of this month we had the melancholy office of performing the laft im perfect obfequles to the remains of the furgeon and the pilot. Thcfe were heavy misfortunes, and the lofs of the former, at a moment when medical knowledge was fo neceffary, muft be confidered by all who read this pngc, as a confummate afflidlion. The firft officer fiiuling a return of his complaint, applied to the fame means of relief which had before been fo fuccefsful, — exercife and the juice of the pine tree. — lie made a deco£lion of the latter which was extremely naufeous, and very difficult, though very much diluted, to keep on the ftomach : — it operated repeatedly as an emetic, before it became a progreffive remedy :— and perhaps this very effect, by cleanfing the ftomach, aided the future falutary operations of this antl-fcorbutic medicine. The fecond officer and one or two of the feamen perfifting in the fame regimen, found fimilar benefit, and were recovered from a very reduced ftate ; but it is one of the unfortunate fymptoms of this melancholy diforder, to be averfe to motion, and to find pain bordering on anguilh, in attempting '^o ufe that exercife which is the predominant remedy. Having loft our furgeon, we were now deprived of all medical aid.— Every advantage the fick could receive from the moft tender and vigilant attention, they received from myfelf, the firft officer and a feaman, who were yet In a ftate to do them that fervice. But ftill we continued to fee and lament a gra- dual diminution of our crew from this terrible diforder. Too often did I find myfelf called to aflift in performing the dreadful office, of dragging the dead bodies acrofs the Ice» to a ftiallow fepulchre which our own hands had hewn out for them on the fliore. The fledge on which we fetched the wood was their hearfe, and the chafms in the ice their grave :^But thele Im- perfetft rites were attended with that fincerity of grief which does not always follow the gorgeous array of funeral pride to fepulchral domes. Indeed, the only happinefs ; or, to exprefs myfelf with more accuracy, the only alleviation of our wretcheduefs was when we cotild ablent ourfelves from the veflel, and get 3 . away INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xxr •way from hearing the groans of our afflided people, in order to find relief in a folitary review of our forlorn fituation. All our cordial provifions had long been exhaufted ; — we had nothing to ftrengthen and fupport the fick but bifcuit, rice, and a fmall quantity of flour, but no kind of fugar or wine to give with them. Of fi\lt beef and pork there was no deficiency ; but, even if it had been a proper food, the averfion of the people to tlie very fight of ir, would have prevented its falutary cftetSls. Fi(h or fowl was not an offer- ing of the winter here. A crow or a fea-gull were rare dL-licacies, and an eagle, one or two of which we killed, when they feemed to be hovering about, as if they would feed upon us, inftead of furnifhing us with food, was a feaft indeed. — Our two goats, a male and female of the fame age, and who had been our companions throughout the voyage, were at length relu£lantly killed, and ferved the fick, with broth, &c. made of their flelh, for fourteen days. "li Though we were at the latter end of March, there was, as yet, no change in the weather; — the cold ftlU continued its inhofpitable feverity ; — we now, however, began to derive fome hopes from feeing the fun, which had been fo long obfcurcd from us, juft peep at noon over the fummits of the moun- tains. The thermometer had, during this month, been for the moft part at 15° r id 16°, though it had fometimes rifeu to ly". The early part of the month of April was very frofty, with violent winds. Towards the middle of it, we had fomc very Iieavy Southerly gales, which produce the fummer in thefe high latitudes, as the Northerly ones prevail throughout the winter. The change of wind produced, as may be fuppofed, a fenfible alteration in the air ; but it brought heavy fhowers of fnow, and did not become ftationary ; fo that with the return of the North wind, it became as cold as ever. In fhort, during the latter part of this month there was a continual combat of thefe oppofing winds, which were the more difagreeablc, as it oc- cafioned thick and hazy weather. While the South wind prevailed, the fick people grew worfe, and iu the courfe of this month, four Europeans and three J^afcars %\ fi li i skU INTRODUCTORY VOYAGf. Lafcars died. The fecoiid officer and the feaman who entered upon the pine juice regimen, were now fo far recovered as to get upon deck to receive the fliort but welcome vifit of the fun. This circumftance induced many of the fick men to apply to the decodlion, and fome of them were perfuadcd to con- tinue it ; but, in general, it was negleded, with a determination to die at their eafe, (according to their manner of expreflion) rather than be tormented by fuch a naufeous and torturing remedy. . Towards the end of the month, in the mid-day fun, the thermometer raifed to 32°, biit at night it fell below the freezing point to 27". During the laft three ^ays in this montli, the natives brought us fome herring and fea-fowl. The fi(h, I myfelf dlftributed to the fick, and no words can exprefs the eager joy which animated their haggard countenances on receiving fuch a comforta- ble and refrefhing meal:' — and every encouragement was, of courfe, given to the •natives to procure a conftant fupply of this ftrengthening food. Thefe people now began to confole us with an aflurance that the cold would foon be gone. They had, indeed, always made us underftand, that the fummer would commence about the middle of May, by counting the number of moons. The fun now began to make a large circle over the hills, and at midday it war exceedingly reviving. The fupplies offifh were alio frequent, and we began to feel hopes, that the remaining part of us would get out of this dcfolate abode, and return again to our country. Thefe cir- cumftances gave fuch a turn to the fpirits of the people, that many of them confentcd to be brought upon deck to feel the rays of the fun, who fainted when they approached the air. It is very fingular that many of them who preferved aftoiiifhing fpirits, and would fay or do any thing, who appeared in fliort, as if they were free from all diforder, while they were in bed, would from the moft trifling motion, or only touching the fide of their hammocks, be liyrowu iuto fuch agonizing pains, and fucceffive faintiujgs, that every moment might INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. XXIU might be fuppofed to be their laft. Iii this ftate they would remain for near half an Rour, before they recovered. ■: . By the 6th of May, there was an aftonifhing change in every thing around vik ; the feamen who had not been very much reduced, recovered miraculouny, from drinking the decoftion. We had now as much fifli as we could eat, with a great variety of fea-fovvl, with which the natives dally provided us. — We had alfo feen feveral flights of geefe and ducks pafs over us, but none had as yet come within our reach. On the 17th, a company of the natives, with the King of the Sound, named Shenoway, came on board with great form, to congratulate us on the return of fummer. — They alfo informed us that they had feen two veflels at fea, an article of intelligence which we fcarce knew how to believe, though it was confirmed by the fimilar and fubfequent mformation of others of the natives ; but, on the rpth, this doubtful account was verified by the arrival of two canoes conducing a boat, in which was Captain Dixon of the Queen Charlotte from London, which, with her confoit the King George, Captain Portlock, he had left at Montagu Ifle, to come in quefl of us, on the informa- tion of the Indians. If all the circumftances are confidered, — this mufl be mentioned as a mofl ex- trao. binary meeting; and when the horrid iituatiou of the Nootka and her crew i'j called into refleftion, their ficknefs and their forrow, — their defolate fituation fo long continued, — and the chilling apprehenfions that, from the ftate of the crew and the ftate of the ftilp, even when the weather relaxed, and the feafon became favourable, they might not poflefs the means of quitting it ;--when all thefe items of misfortune are brought to one aggregate of evil, it is not a matter of furprife that Captain Dixon fhould be welcomed as a guardian an^^el with tears of joy. Nor ftiall I deny that we received confide table affiftance and fervice from Captain Portlock, whofe embaflador he was— And h:re I Hiouia 1, xx5y INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. ihould have concluded this part of my fubjeA ; but as the latter gentleman in the account of his voyage, has thought proper to reprefent himfelf as pof- fcfllng the virtues of a Samaritan, and that he exercifed them all upon me, I have thought proper to ftatc the hiftory of his] conduft with all the ne- ccffiry vouchers, that the public may be in poffeflion of the truth, and be enabled to judge of the extent of the obligations I owe to the juftice, the libe- rality, and the humanity of Captain Portlock*. By the 12th of May, the meridian fun became very powerful, and the Southerly winds being fet in, the air was foft and pleafant. The thermo- meter during the day and in the (hade flood at 40", though at night it fell to the i * In May, 1787, Captain A. Portlock arrived in the King George in an hi)rbo(ir in Prinre William's Sound, as did the Queen CliarlottCjC.iptain Dixon, who was difiiatrhcd with the boats on a trading trip, and arrived in Snug Corner Cove, with the long-boat of the King George and two wliale boats. They were informed by the natives, that a veflel was at anchor near tliem, which they underflood to be the Nootka, Captain Meares. On this intcUigence, Captain Dixon was conducted by the natives, and arrived on board the Noutka late in the evening. When ourmutnal Airprife was in fomc mcafiire abated, Captain Oixon was informed by me of my condition, and the misfortimcs w hich we had encountered. To » hicli he replied, that it only lay in Captain Portlock's power to lend lis the alliftancc lie faw we fo nnich wanted, and that he propofcd to depart very early in the morning to the (hips, >vhich were dillant near 20 leai^iics : he alio added he was certain that Captj'n Portlock would put to fca imuicdiately on Jiis hearing this intelligence of iis. I made Captain Dixon fenfibie of our fitiiation, and that I had no boat cap.nblc of proceeding dow n to the (hips ; I therefore rcqneficd to know if he would give me a palTagc, in order that I might lay before Captain Portliick the hillory of cur tlilireires; but Cii'iaifi Dixon very hontdly informed me, that though he would inoliairuredly arcounnodate 'ne with a pafTagc, yet he did net think that Captain Portlock would fend up a beat in return. I then confidercd, that, if 1 went dow n, and the Ibips (liquid nevorihclcfs fail, leaving me to get back as 1 could, I fhould be in a ftiitc ol the mod accii- mulafcd misfortune .---and, though my going down would have been fonie tie on Captain Portlock to fend me back to my fliip in one of his boats, yet the didancc between us being fo great, it would take up fome d.iys of his time, which might be to the detriment of his voyage : I therefore, on this confidenition, w aved going, and infiantly wrote to Captain I'ortlo.k by Captain Dixon. (No I.) A few hour.! after tl\e departtiie of Captain Dixon, it occuned to m?, that if we could podibly launch the longboat, and proceed to the Ihip, it might be the moans of Iccuring fnmc alliltance previous to their departure. The hull of the boat, indeed, was deplorable, — for when we launched her it was with difficviliy tint wc could keep Iter afloat; ncver'.hclefs, I embarked in her (aicomp.inied by the firll officer and five men) the fame evening. I took with me two cafks of rum, and fevcral bags of rice, to exchange for fomc gin, and a little fugar and tlieefe ; all w Inch, Captain Dixon informed inc, they had in abtuidjiice. Fortunately we had fine weather; and arrived at the (hip about three o'clock the followin* evening, jud before the corr.mencement of a gale of wind. When wc got along-fide the King George, the boat was half full of water j ,and Uic carpenter could not avoid cxpieHIng his aAonilliincnt, tliat we liad ventured l'uc!i u didaiice in her. Captaia ,<£!!., INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xxt the freezing point, and fpread a thin ice over what had thawed in the day. The main body of ice, however, by which we were fuiroundcd, began to loofen from the fliore, where it was broken by the tide, which riles and fidls eighteen feet, while the drain of the thaw in the country drove the pieces of ice out to fea. The veflel now fwung to her anchors, tlie ice having thawed from around her : — Our fick were recovering very fail:, though two of them baffled the return of tlie fun, and, in fpite of our iitmoft attentions, added to the number of thofe whom fixte had ordained to take their laft fleep on this horrid fliore.— The face of the country, however, was ftill covered with fnow, and no vegetable produ(5lion was yet attainable but the pine tops; that the fternefs of winter had deigned to fpare us, and wliich proved an efficacious remedy to thofe who perfifted in the ufe of them. D On CaptHiii Portlock received us with great politcnefs ; and we found that Captsiii Dixon liad arrived but a few hours before us. As foon as we liad refrclliod ourfclvi's, I explained to Captain PortlucU the nature of my ciraad, — which lie lieard, and faid he would confult Captain Dixon on the fubjec^. I then proceeded, to give him, without refcrve, fudi information relative to tht! various expeditions on the Coifi, tlicir views, the probable time of their arrivals, fc*- , ISf. wliicli inurt have been invaluable to him, from his utter ignorance of any other Ihips. 1 gave him this information from pure commifcration for the hitherto unfortunate events of hii voyage, and to guide him in his future procieiings: — In lliort, I comnmnicated every thing in my power. In a little time Captain Portlock, in the prcfencc of Captain Dixon, informed nie, that it was entirely out of his power of nieialTes, and fix loaves of Knglifli lui',.ir. The fame evcnli.g, at my reij'.xli. Captain Portlock ordered his carpenter to caulk my long-boat's bottom, fo that llie was rendered fit for my rt urn. During thofe acls of mutviaUiviliiy, I really thought niyftif iiuich indebted to Captain Portlo.k; and in return offeied him fuch ar.iclcs as 1 could Ip.ire; fu Ji as ruin, rice, and a new cable of 13 inches (Kurope;) but he declined receiving any of ihefc, not bcii^g in want of ll.em. In the eveuing of this day I bid him adieu ; and arrived fafe on board tlie Nuotka with the two Icaincn. A few -i XXVI INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. !i On the 1 7th of May, a general dtflblutlon took place throughout the Cove, and when we once again found ourfelves in clear water, the hopes of leaving this fcene of fo much diArefs and horror, cheered our languid minds with inexprcffible comfort. The number of natives which we faw, did not exceed five or fix hun- dred. — They are a ftrong, raw-boned race of people, and in fize rather ex- ceeding the common ftature of Europeans. They have no town, village, or fixed place of abode, but are continually wandering up and down the Sound, as fancy leads or neceflity impels them, confidering the whole of that territory as fubjeft to them, and fuffering no other tribe to enter whom they have Arength fufficient to keep out, without paying them a tribute for that privilege. When, however, A few days afterwards, I was furprifed to fee C»';tain Portlock's two boats enter the Cove ; they brought me the foU lowing 'elter from that gentleman. Cape Hichinbrokc, ok board the King George, May 1 9/A, 1787. DEAR SIR, I HOPE by the time you receive this you will be clear of the ice, the remains of your crew •n the recovering hand, and your veni-I in a (late of quitting the Soimd, wliicli I think cannot be done loo foon, as on quitting the coaft, by a fhort run you may be amongft the Sandwicli Idands, where every refrefliment may be liad for putting your (hip's company in a proper (late for proceeding towards Cliina; where, at a proper fcafon, hope to fee you in good health. 1 think it wason thefecond day after you left usthatwe failed from Port Rofe, Montague Idand; and, after round- ing the Eaft end of the faid illand, (Iretched over for this place, (vhere I lay much expofcd ; but, at all events, mean to remain until the return of my long-boat from Cook's River, and the coaft tending that way ; to which place I dif- patched her the day afteryou left us, and expert her in about one month. Captain Dixon took his leave of me o(f the Cape, bound to the Southward towards King George's Sound, with direc- tions to t«»uch at every port he could make along the coaft, and try what may be done on his way there; and as the wea- ther fince his departure hath been favourable, I hope he will make a goo4 hand of it. I remember before you left us to liave heard you fay, that you had an abundance of tratle of every kind remaining : and now, my good friend, I think, in. your prefent (ituation, that trade cannot, at leaft that it ought not, to be your objeiJt. I niuft beg that you would fpare me a part of it. The articles ^wi(h you to fpare are beads of diflcient kinds, particularly the fmall green and yellow fort, and of tlicm as much as pulTible ; iron unwrought, and your fpait an- vil, you may remember that I mentioned my want of pepiier and a compafs. I hope to fee you as you pafs through the Sound : and remain, with efteem, Your's finterely, Catt. J h n M e a r e s, Srnnu Nooiia, N A T H'' P O R T I. O C K. Suibcrland Cove, Frinct WiUiam'i Smid, • 1 wrote- 1/ INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE/ xxvil however, they are intruded upon by a more powerful nation, which fometimes happens, they retreat to certain rocks which are inacceflible but by a ladder that is drawn up after them, and even their canoes, which arc of a very light conftru£lion, are hauled up with them. They have a King whofe name was Sheenoway ; he was a very old mnu and almoft blind.— When he firft vifited us in the preceding autumn, he brought with him three women, whom he called his wives, and were accord- ingly treated with a fuitable attention, being prefented with fuch articles as appeared to be moft agreeable to them ; but they would not fufFer the uioft diftant familiarity from any of us. Thefe and three or four others were the only women we faw amongft them.— We wiflied very much to get one of their boys to live D z with I wrote him by return of the boats, (No. III.) I hefitated not a moment in complying with the purport of his letter ; and as I could not get at the articles of tr.nde, they being (lowed in the hold, I fent whut I had at hand, viz. the- com- paft, fome pepper, a few bags of rice, 400 or 50olb. each, and feveral other articles which I thought he wanted, though lie did not pay by any means an adequate attention to my wants by his boats. The Nootka in fourteen or fifteen days was ready for fea : we therefore failed out of tl\e Cove, where we had been fo long imprifoned, and anchored the next evening in Port Etches, where the King George was alfo at aiiclwr. I agairj met Captain Portlock with every civility. A few days after my arrival, as we were converfing in a friendly manner onboard Iiit own fliip, 1 was much furprifcd at his putting into my hand the follow ing letter. Kino George, Port Ktciiesj June gih, 17S7. CAFTAIN MEARtS, AT the time I fparcd you Thomas Dixon and George V.'illis, to alllil in iiavijjjiiing the Nootka to China, I had thoughts of quitting this Sound, and procecdin,:; to other parts of the coarts ; tlicrcfoii: voiir flay in the Sound, and carrying on a trade with the natives, could not, in any material degree, alfecl me. I therefore propofed to you no conditions refpefting trade, in confideration of that afliftancc, which, if i had done, I am pretty cer- tain you would very readily have complied with. Since that period I have ha J good reafun for adopting another plan, a part of which is to remain in the Sound, and purclufe every lV.in, of every kind, that rjme in my way ; and a.s vour remaining in the Sound and trading murt, of courle, flop a confider.ible part of t!ie trade that 1 might get, I fiml mvfelf in duty bound, on account of my employers intercUs, to propofc the followlnj; ciinditions, — which. If \ouiuoulJ ivijb to ketp the aJJUftance I bavt alreaJy lent, you will find it necefaiy to comply nx'iih. ["lie Conditions are thele, — Tlmt>:» L'md ynurfelfin a Bond tf five hundred pounds, >' that no trade be c;irritd on for li^in;. ni any kind by yourffh', ur aiu' of vour crew, during your (lay in the Sound this feafon, and that you let lae have twcn'y bara of iron, ..m' .. ur tuvds." On thefe, and only thefe Conditions, _>'»« keep tuhat ajfiflance 1 have nlnajy lent, .tm.' r.\eive it fa/ othrr alfijian.e I have inmy potveria afftrdyou: at the fame time 1 mull alfiire you, th.it was I m your C.iuatioii 1 (hmild not hcliwtc a moment tin complying with the terms propofed. You have made a gooJ iiuul.al'c, — I have niinj 10 nuke, ^'ou have more trade han you can pofTibly difpofe of,— I have mine to make. 3 N A T H ■•• 1' O R T L O C K. I if! XXTl'lI INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. tvlth us, In order to obtain fome knowledge of their language and manners ; this propofition, however, they conftantly refufcd ; but on condition that we fliould leave one of our people with them. Indeed the King himfelf alw;iys hefitatcd to come on board, unlefij one of our feamcn remained in the canoe during his vifit. Some time In October, 1786, his Majcfty brought us a young woman and offered her for fale ; and (he was accordingly bought for an axe and a fmall quantity of glafs beads. Wc at firft thought that fhe was one of his own women, but (he foon made us underftand that (he was a captive, and had been taken with a party of her tribe, who had been killed and eaten, which was the general lot of all prifoncrs taken In war. She alone had been prefcrvcd to wait upon the Royal ladies, who were now tired, or peihaps jealous of her fervices. M 1, \ A rcquifition fo illilieral called fortli all my aftonilliment ; and it was w ith difiiculty I roiild fiifprcfs llie indignation I naturally ftlt, at the flumct'iil adv,intage he proporcd to take of my lielplcfs (itiiafion. lloHCvcr, for what co\ild I do ) Impelled by cruel nccelTity, 1 agreed to thde hard conditiiuis, wiili a provifo, that lie gave me his honour to let me have another man from him, and the probability of a boy j and as lie informed me that he had a quantity of porter •n board for the Japan nurket, and other arlitles, fuch as fugar, chocolate, &'c. that he would let me have as miirh of thofe articles as I wanted, at the Canton price, as he did not mean to go to Jaj an : — all thJs he alTui cd me that he would comply with :— in return, I pledged my honour not lo trailc, or permit my people ;— lheb«ids and iroh were aceordingly fent liim. Before 1 finilhed my vifit, he fixed the next day to fend the man, perhaps tl.e boy, and rertaiidy ilic porter, which to us would have been an invaluable arquilition, on account of our fcorbutic lubils of body, and liaving nothing but falted beef to exili on down to the il1;^nds, the very idea of which we naufeated. 1 he next day his carpenter came onboard, wlio began to caulk the deck, and examine the pumps. Captain Portlock employed a'fo fome of his people to brew beer and cut wood for us. Captain Portluck had done all this with (o many profellioni, that it was all for the good oi his owners, and appeared fo friendly to me, that I really was deceived by him. His carpenter w hen caulking part of our deck had iifed about fifty pounds of oakum of his own, wc having none of Ibat article, or men to pick it ; — to replace this, I fent on board feveral lengths of an old cable, about 1 1 fathoms, when one of Captain Porilock's people caine on board with a meflPage that he wanted ao fathoms of cable more, to replace the oakum : furprifed at this declaration, I fent my firft officer on board, to explain to Captain Portlock that I really had no more junk or old cable in the ftiip, and that if he perlilled in his demand, I muft ruin a cable to comply with it, and that I thought what he had already received wofe even tlfty failioms of junk would be to yotir's Difpatch this boat ai quick at you can, and ibe ttinl man is getting liimfelf ready for you. 1 hope you are »cll litis morning, Qfc. 1 am, dear Sir, Vour's fincerely, N. P O R T L O C K, I then Tent the cable, which contained twenty times the quantity 1 had received from him. Captain Portlock alfo defired me to lend hiin fix flands of arms, fome brafs mulketoens, and the anvil, until we met in China, which I immediately fent on board. However, day after day he deferred fending the man, boy, or porter, or, indeed, fulfilling the remainder of his agreement j — and thus matters relied till we were ready for fea :— 1 then requelled Mr. UoUings to go on board, and en- deavour to make Captain Portlock comply with his agreement, and fave his honour; when, to my utter afloiilflnnent Mr. HoUings returned with the following anfwer:— " that he would fpare me ao dozen of porter, and lo gallons of " gin, for a new European ij inch cable; (which coll in Bengal near loo/.) that he could not fpare the man, but " would give mean old 9 inch hawfur, of 8o fathoms." I naturally r^je^ed this offer with indignatisn, the articles being by no means of equal value, and as he refufed to fulfil his part of the agreement between us. I told him, however, in the prefcncc of .Mr. Ilo'.linf^s, that if he was in dillrefs fora cable, I would fpare him one, at the rate that the ownert bought it, but on no otlier terms, asl liad no orders to cat or drink away tlie property of the Hiip. I then rii: XXiC INTRODUCTORY VOYAOE. fhe fent invitations to them to come to us ; to which we added prcLnts of beads as an encouragement to receive a vilit from them ; and within a few days of the time, when flic mentioned her expcdation of their arrival, fome of them came in three finglc canoes, and brought a fmall quantity of (kins. She earneftly rcquefled permiOion to depart with them, but as wc cxpc£lcd to derive fome advantage from her information in the fummcr, her dcfire was not granted. While, however, our people were gone down to brc'akfifl:, (he contrived to get to the canoes, and wc faw her no more. At tlic time the girl left us, the fcurvy was not arrived to the cruel heiglit which it afterwards attained.^ Neveithclcfs (hs made us fcnfible that the fame difordcr prevailed in her nation, and that whenever the fymptoms appeared, they removed to the South- ward where the climate was more genial, and where plenty of fifli was to be obtained, which never failed to prove the means of their recovery. The i lH )'i I then obferved to him, that if he had no regard to liii hnnoiir, yet it would appear but common iiiimanity to fpare MS fuch articles us would tend to keep tliis dcHruflive diforder under, until we (huuld arrive at the Sandwich ((lands. I reprefrntcd, that it was againll liis own and owners intereR to keep an article of this kind fur the China market, when he had had an ofl'or of the highell price ever giren at Canton for articles of the like nature. On no other terms could I procure the porter, and other little articles, but, as I have mentioned before, for the new cable, which I rejciSled i and in confequence of my rcfufal to comply with his exorbitant and difhonourable demands, Captain Portlock refui'ed the two men and the boy, withdrew his carpenter, and in other private points was guilty of the mod iniproi'cr condu'h V hen he recalled liis carpenter, this fellow declared to Captain Portlock, that our fliip was not in a (late of faloty; her feams being open every where, and the pumps not finiflied. For what he had done, (lis-) caulkin,; two lieums fore and aft. Captain Portlock permitted him to charge (ixty dollars, which I rctufed, aud ai;iecd with him for forty dollars, or ten pounds, which was paid him by Mr. Cox at Canton. Captain I'ortlofk received the money. On the I Sth of June, 1 received another letter as foUews. King G'f.o«op, Port Etche«, NiAH CAPEHiKCHivBuOKi, Prince William's Sovnd, 5'"'" '*» '1^7- c a pta 1 n m c a r es, I HAVE had very recent, good rcafon to think that, after you have quitted thii Sound, you mean to put info fome ports on the coall of .-Xmcrica, t(i carry on a trading ftheme; now. Sir, you will recoUcifl, that, in your reprefentation to me of your diliicired litiiation, the navigating your velfel from this to the Sandwich Klands, anJ from thence to China, in fafety, was what you gave me to undcrftand as your only wi(h. If til. 5 i^ really your intention, as a man of honour you cannot rehife giving nr a fecurity that you will leave the coafl immtdiaiely on your quilting this £oimd, and purfuiiig tliat route.— In conlcquencc of your letter 1 iiave granted you two «-! INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. XXXI The natives of the Sound, of cither fcx, keep tlitir hair ratlicr fliort ;— but of the fame length before as behind : indeed their faces are generally {o covered with it, that they are obliged to be continually fcparatlng it, in ord>;r to fee before them. — The men have univerfally a (lit in their luultr lip, be- tween the projecting part of the lip and the chin, which i* cut p.irallcl with their mouths, and has the appearance of another mouth. The boys have two, three, or four holes, where the flit is in the men, wliich is perhaps the cUftinc- tivc mark of manhood. The women have the fame apertures ai the boys, with pieces of Ihell fixed in them refembling teeth. Both fcxes have the fcptum of the nofe perforated, in which tliey generally wear a large quill or a piece of the bark of a tree. Their beards which, however, are common but in perfons advanced in years, arc on the upper lip, and two ef tlic bert men from the King George, .but you may be well alTiireJ it was not to enalile you to trade along the read. Mr. CietTclman has the paper with him, which you cannot refufe to (ign.provlJcJyou mean to proceed as you declared you intended to do. I am, Sir, Your obedient, rmniblc- Servant, N AT H i^' P O R T LOCK. \o» will pleafe to be fpeedy in your determination, that I may, in cafe you do not chufe to comply, in giving me the fectirity I have alked, return you the articles I have received, and take my people on board a^ain. I need not comment on this tranfai5lion. I was obliged to fubmit ; and I accordingly Hgned the Bend, of which 1 here give an exacl copy ;^ C P r OF THE BOND. Shi'p King George, Port Etchei, yu/ie liii, 1787. B( IT KNOWN UNTO ALL MsN, That the under-written mutual Agreement and Obligation was this day entered into and agreed upon between A. Portlotk, commander of the King George, from Krglaiid, on the one part, and John Mearcs, commander of the Ihow Nootka, from Bengal, on the otlicr part, under the pains and forfeitures as under-mentioned : — Whereas the above-mentioned John Meares, in wintering on the New Coaft of America, unfortunately loft the grealcft part of his (hip's company, and was reduced to the greateft diftrefs, not being able to navigate his velfel to ChinA. In confcquence of the diftrefled fitualion, as reprcfented by the faid John Mearci to the faid A. Portlock, !^ "S- '". xxxii INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. and about the extremity of the chip, whicli in the winter is generally frofteJ with icicles. — The younger part of them, as we imagine, pull it out as it appears. — They have high cheek bones, and round flat faces, with fmall black eyes and jetty hair. — Their afpetfl is wild and favage, and their ears are full of holes, from which hang pendants of bone or (hell. They ufe a red kind of paint, with which they befmear their necks and faces ; but after the death of friends or relation?, \t is changed into black. Their hair is almoft covered with the down of birds. Their cloathing confifts of a fmgle frock, made of the fca-otter fkin, which hangs down to their knees and leaves their legs bare. The drefs they ufe in their canoes, is made of the guts of the whale, which covers their heads, and the lower part being tied round the hole in which they fit, prevents the water from getting into the canoe, and at the Time time keeps them warm and dry. This indeed may be confidered as their principal drefs, as they pafs the far greater part of their time in the canoes. There A. Portlock, commanding the King George, tlie U\A A. Porriock promifed an i agreed to afllft the faid John Meares, by lending liim two able lisamAi to enable him to profecute liis voyage to China, on Condition That the faid John Meares fliall, on his leaving Prince William's Sound, «here he now is, immediately proceed to Canton, and not on any account whatfoevcr (excejit drove by necedity or accident) meet with, or continue to trade or barter with the natives of any part of tlic faid coaft, (ic. for otter- Hins, or any other lurs, the produce of the faid coafts, on pain of forfeiting the fiim of icoo/. of good and lawful money of Great Br:- • t.r.n, to the faid A. Portlock, his I.cirt, executors, and alligns, for the life of ijie Proprietors of the If.d fliip Kill;; Geoi'ge. In witncfs whereof we luve hereimto fiibfcribed our hands the day and year above-mentioned. As I had good rtafoB to apprehend further deinands frotii the illiberal and fordid fpirit KV They live entirely upon fifli, but of all others, they prefer the whale j and as the oil is with them the moft delicate part of the fi(h, they naturally eftecm thofe moft which poffefs an oily quality. — They feldom drefs their fifh, but when they do, the fire is kindled by fri£lion with fome of the drieft pine wood, and they have a kind of baskets made of a fubftance which holds water, into which a quantity of heated ftones is put to make it boil ; but it is not often that their food undergoes this unneceflary and troublefome ope- ration. In the coldeft period of the winter we never faw them employ their kitchen, which might, perhaps, arife from local circumftances, that encreafed the difficulty attending their culinary exertions. They are certainly a very favage race of people, and poflTefs an uncom- mon degree of infenfibility to corporal pain. — Of this we had a very fingular proof on the following occafion': — In the courfe of the winter, among otlier rubbifh, feveral broken glafs bottles had been thrown out of the (hip, and one o£ Ez th« (N=»'II. > iON BOARD THE KiNC GeOROF, PoRT EtCHES, Prince William's Sound, May ittb, jjS.7. To CaFTAIN PoRTLOCK and DlXOM, * Gektlemi^t, I N ny letter of the nth oFtliis month, I reprefL-nted to you the veiy'diftrelTcd .tn4 deplorable Rate of my fliip, which you are p«rfei.lly fcnflblc is leally the cafe, and have moft kindly offered nic fiich alliftance as is in j-oiir power, rcfpeir^ing men to adift me in navigating the (hip to China. I muft again beg leave to rcprefcnt to you, that fuch is my lituation, that, without the ad^fiance of men, it will be nearly an impolliblc thing for me even to quit this Sound, much Icfs to navigate the (liip to China; iuch is the debility af my crew. If therefore, Gentlemtn, you will take this into confidcration, and permit me to have a feamcn or two from each of your fliips, it nuiy be the means of faving the lives of the wretched remains of my crew, by enabling nie to conducit w ith Inch affiftance, the Nootka to Canton, where on your arrival, (hould Providence fo order it as to fend us there alfo I wlUfaithfully deliver them back to their rcfpe^ive Ihips; and do engage, on the part of the Proprietors to fland to anf daniai e tiiat may enfue to you for giving us fuch timely and necelliuy adiftance. Idoalfocn-jage, fliould not your fliips arrive at Canton, to fend thofe men to England, fliould they defire to gOr I am, Gentlemen, Your moft obedient, J. M E A R E S, CimmanJer of the UnWD Kwtka, ! I 1 1 A- ,-»•*! U. xxxvt INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. the natives wlio was fearching among them to fee what he could find, cut his foot in a very fcvcre manner : on feeing it bleed, we pointed out what iiad caufed the wound, and applied a drefling to it, which we made him underftand was the remedy we ourfelves employed on fimilar occafions : but he and his com- panions iiiftantly turned the whole into ridicule ; and, at the fame time, taking fomc of the glnfs, they fcarificd their Itgs and arms in a moft extraordinary manner, informing us that nothing of that kind could ever hurt them. ^ Such is the charn£ler and manners of the people in whofe territory we pafTed fuch a deplorable fcafon ; it was therefore with infii ite joy we took our leave of the Cove on the 21 ft of June, and the following even Mig we got out to fea. Our crew now confifted only of twenty-four people, including myfelf and officers, with the two failors we got from the King George, having, alas ! buried twenty-three- men in this inhofpitable Sound. Thofe which remained, however^ were all in> great ( N°. III. ) yi Capt. Portlock, Cammaniling ibe King George, Port Etches. DEAR SIR, 1 W A S this morning favoured, and agreeably furprized by the arrival of your boats, and the receipt of your friendly letter. The ice is completely ililFolved, and the weather has been extremely fine, which has enabled us to put forward our preparations for fea j to bring whiili to a final conclufion you may jufily fuppole our utniofi cfToits have been made. I arrived fafe at my fiiip the mcrnini,' after I left you ; and, as I liad brought the (Irength of my crew with me, fo in my abfence notliing could be done to put her in forwardnefs. Our chief employment fince has been to entirely clear our main and after holds, and completely ftow them for fea, with the view of leaving the coaft j and in confcquence of w hich all the beads and unwroiight iron have been (lowed ii> the ground tier. But, my dear Sir, fo far .ire we from being ready, that our utmofl efforts have been able only to accompllfli this ; and I do fuppofe it will be ten days at leal! before we (hull be ready to put to feu ; for we have now the fore-hold to clcir of many calks, more ballad to lal.r i "" ' r i i ,. « ii TOl . i% i0 » ii *mwm\- 4fm '.4fc«w*f»v*<»f " ' •i.A'lt . ,h>*'^»^''< i«».-aM •■•r " « ' • r^ *nt>». 1 r! s/ ^ \ Iful jtn lent lave ide iR- »•*f•^'^^«•«*-*^^fc■^ -■ »■ i- -- * C A (!hart of thf Interior Part of North America DlCMOXSTKATINli tfie vrrv o'nttt fintfhihilih V Princess 'y V^> 'Pr till if '•■"■*'"*' ^No -^ J. najttivd dtl ' S'Marum CAurck Kirif. ft',;-JfnanJ^:l/t.f.\ .. 'ii .vl J Jfajtrtvi/. d^i*. S'Mart Wecdtnank'Afutlt'^H. Siulp-M ■ .:*»*<«v.^:"."«?^.i5;? • *» 6ns OBSERVATIONS V r' !• ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE or A ;)A NORTH fVESr PASSAGE, &e. 'J ' I C.,,0ollwut .CH»nn(l fjtiaria ^JameI aauanat [.A/i*ij-.ifi< I H I I. i A. I ■?!' zlii OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF Indeed it does not appear that the Britifli nation was, by any means, fatisfied or convinced that the voyages which had been performed for the difcovery of altorth VVeft jJaflage Had bedn decifiVe.— Though the Eaftern fide of America had been explored at large, yet the numerous Sounds, Bays, and Inlets remaining to be examined, Were Aifiicient Co juftify a continuance of conjecture, and to re-excite the enterprifing fpirit of fubfequent adventurers. )i The beneficial confequences that would arifefrom the difcovery of a North Weft paflage are felf evident ; for although India is, in a manner, brought fo much nearer to Europe by the modern improvements in (hipping and navigation, yet to fliorten the prefent circuitous courfe, is an obje£l of the firft commercial im- portance. — It was indeed for this purpofe that the voyage of Captain Cook was undertaken by the command of his Majefty , to difcover, if poflible, a pafiage between the two oceans ; and to begin his refearch on the Coaft of New Albion. IrKe voyages which had been made in preceding periods to Hudfon's and Baflrn*s 6ays, with the fame view, though unfuccefsful, as to the mairt obje^, ferve'd ratlier to confirm the exigence of it ; and Mr. Elbbbs, who had niade it a pri'nCipalf obje£t of his ambition arid his life, was continually making converts to his favourite lyftem. It' was in confequence of his folicitations that Middleton was fent out ; yet the queftion did not feem to have received any elucidation from his voyage.— His proceedings were faid to be kept fecret, or his account garbled; and the Hudfon's Bay company incurred a cohfiderable degree bfodiurti, which encteafed in proportion as the exiftence of a North Weft paflage continued to grow on the populair belief and expectation. SiiSfequent voyages werie made without producing any certainty as to the great obje£^ of them ; and the opinions of the public Were either in a ftate of hefita- tibu or divifion cohcernuig it, when the naval rtiiilifter of the period difpatched Toung and Pickersgill fucceflively to Baffin's Bay, and Cook to the Weftern iide of America, to determine the queftion, if poflible, for ever. — How far this important W v- A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, tfr. xliii important matter is determined by Captain Cook's voyage, the account of it, univerfally read and known, will dircover.— Tliofe of Young and Pickersgill have never been publifhed ; but we are informed, on the refpe£table authority of the Preface to the Voyages of Captain Cook, that they failed entirely of the end propofed.— Baffin's Bay, therefore, which is yet unexplored, may be thought to afford fome hopes of this moft defirable communication. In the voyage of Captain Cook it is feen, that after performing the lefler obje£ts of it, he arrives on the coaft of New Albion, and inftead of beginning his refearches in the latitude of 65° North, according to the language of his inftrudions, he commences his furvey in a much lower latitude, until he ar- rives in King George's Sound, fucceflively in Prince William's Sound, and the river which is fmce honoured with his name. He then fails to the latitude pointed out by his orders; and, in the end, finds an infurmountable obftruc- tion in a barrier of ice which is fuppofed to reach to the North Pole ; froip which circumftance alone the conclufion is drawn, that there is no paflage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. -- . . -_ ■ ■ .. ;v'-/. 'J' ' . . ... It cannot, indeed, be too much regretted, that the particular portion of the Coafl of America between the latitude of 56*' and 50** North, and 47° and 48" North, did not admit of more attention than appears to have been beflowed on them. The weather in this important part of the voyage was fo unfavourable that the (hips were prevented from approaching the coaft ; for though the Fe- lice and Iphigenia did explore thefe latitudes, yet there is every reafon to lament that Captain Cgok was himfelf prevented from fuch an examination as would have proceeded from him. When the great Navigator was engaged in exploring theie low latitudes, he was, at that moment, in pofleflion of Mr. Hearne's track acrofs the continent of America to the North of 70", which appears to annihilate all hopes of a paf- iP ^ fage ■ ' 1 I .L::,,-. L xliv OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF fage between Fort Churchill and Copper-mine River. Yet Captain Cook, even contrary to his inilrudlions, thought it expedient to explore thofe very parts on the Weftern fide ; a circumftance which may certainly juftify us in fuppofing, that he did not think the route of Mr. Hearne fo very conclufive as it has fince been imagined. ^ Iv A general conclufion has been alfo drawn, that a paflage to the Northward of 70** would be of no general utility ; and the probability, nay even the exift- ence of a paflage South of 70° is decided. Neverthelefs, the naval minifter, in full pofleflion of the Hudfon Bay Company *s difcoveries, thought it right to fend both Young and Pickersgill fuccefllvely into Baffin's Bay, to explore a paf- fage that way ; from which arrangement it may be concluded that government, at leaft. Had every reafon to believe that a North Weft paflage did exift ; and I am by no means convinced by any fubfequent voyages or reafonings upon them, that the grounds of former opinions on this fubje*;£>■ * Mr. Dalrynaplc. It i xlTiu OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF It appears, as has been juft hinted, to be the opinion of this gentleman, that, according to Mr. Hcarne's information, there can be no fea communication from Hudfon's Bay to the Pacific Ocean under 72"* of North latitude, which is that of the fea feen by Mr. Hearne, the exadt latitude of which, however, is not deter- mined, though Mr. Hearne thinks he cannot have erred above 20'. On the contrary, the map of the Canadian traders makes this identical polar fea to be in the latitude of 68° 15' North ; which is lefs than Mr. Hearne's obfervation at Conge-ca-tha-wha-chaga, viz. 68" 46' North, if that is an obfervation of re- liance* • - *■ ■ ' " ■ • ■ - / ■• ■-■' V • ■■■;:, ■' • - If the communications which have been made from the refpeftable authority of the Canadian Merchants, fbme of whom were fully adequate to this bufinefs, are thought deferving of credit, there muft either be two lituations where the Polar fea has been feen, in the varying latitudes of 68" 15' North, and 72° North, or the matter muft reft in doubt between Mr. Hearne's obfervations and thofe of the Canadian merchants : we will, however, fuppofe, for a moment, that the lati- tude of thePolar fea, as marked by the latter, is correct, it then becomes by no means improbable that Cook's River may have fome communication with this fea, in 68" 1 5', as thediftance from the higheft latitude at which navigators have arrived in that river is 61° 30', and longitude 2 10°, and thelatltude and longitude of the/ea feen by the Canadians, 68° 15' North, and 228° Eaft ; the diftance being no more than 620 geographic miles. If, therefore, we credit the Canadian accounts, which bear the charafter of accuracy, and thereby fix the fea feen by Mr. Hearne in the la- titude of 68° 15', and longitude 228° Eaft, it would at once fuggeft a more than poflible communication between Cook's River and the Southernmoft part of Baffin's Bay, or the Northernmoft part of Hudfon's Bay into the Atlantic Ocean. For it (hould be remembered, that in the higheft known latitude of Cook's River, no impediment was obferved to the further progrefs of Ihips, either from rocks, (hoals, or a want of a due depth of water ; the channel, on the contrary, ap- pearing capacious and extenfive, and abounding with whales. There A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, He. xllx There are, according to the moft corrc£b information, feveral curioua charts or maps in the pofleflionof the Hudfon's Bay Company, drawn by different per- fons, and feme even (ketched by Indians, of the interior parts of the country, towards the North Weft, and the lands that bind the Northern Pacific Ocean.— On the face of thefe charts, particularly on one defcribed by two Indians^ ap- pear feveral rivers and inlets, unknown to Europeans, which communicate with the Arathapefcow lake, and from this lake the river Kifcachewan runs North Weft into the Pacific Ocean, communicating, perhaps, with Cook's River, the Northern Archipelago, or what we (hall call the Straits of John de Fuca.-» Thefe charts bear a great refemblance to thofe made by the Canadian traders^ which renders them extremely interefting. The Indian maps imply that Hudfon's Bay communicates with the Polar Sea, which countenances the opinion of a paflr^^e by Repulfe Bay, which itfelf has not been perfe£lly examined ; and this feems, as it is obferved by the fame au- thority, to be confirmed by an anonymous manufcript belonging to the Com- pany ; but it exprefles the water to be (hallow where Captain Middleton went. The failure of this voyage, however, is well known to have excited great cla- mours and difcontents, which, in many inftances, ftruck at the fidelity of the relation. Whatever may have been the juftice of former complaints concerning the myfterious concealments of the Hudfon's Bay Company, no charge of this nature can be imputed to the gentlemen who nowcompofe that refpeftable corporation. Among other proofs of their liberal conduit and difpofition, their prefent plan of making furveys, and profecuting difcoveries in Hudfon's Bay, &c. deferves to be diftinguiihed. Mr. Duncan, a mafter in the Royal Navy, failed in the laft Hudfon's Bay fliip to their fettlement, for the exprefs purpofe of exploring and furveying not G tonly H ?'^': 1 1 OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF only Hudfon's Bay, but Baffin's Bay ; he will therefore be employed this year, on his trrival at the Company's fadories, to perform in fmall veflels this ufeful and neccflkry fervice.— We untlerftand that the Company have engaged him, upon the moft liberal terms, for two years ; and it is therefore to be expected that, during the fummer of this year, he will have made a very confiderable progrefs.— Mr. Duncan, as the reader will recolledl, has already been mentioned with due praifc, for his atSlive and perfevering fpirit during the time he com- manded the fmall veflel called the Princefs Royal ; and we Ihould feel an added fatisfa£tion on this fubjeiEV, if it were to be his peculiar good fortune to fucceed where a Middleton and fo many others have failed, and to make a difcovery of fo much importance to the commerce of Great Britain. The obfervation naturally occurs, that the Hudfon's Bay Company, in the employment of Mr. Duncan in this track of difcovery, appear to be, by no means, without their expedation of fuccecding at laft in difcovering a com- munication between Hudfon's or Baffin's Bay, and the Northern Pacific Ocean. , l.^-/. ■ ' . ''",- , . /-, ■ -, ■- ..--■.••, The voyage of the Felice is only an additional fupport. — She enters the Straits of John de Fuca between the latitudes of 48° 30' North, and the longitude of 235° Eaft ; and latitude 47° 30,' and longitude 235° ;o' Eafl ; and finds them fifteen leagues in breadth ; very capacious, with a depth of i jo fathoms water, where whales and fea otters were feen in great abundance. — If the ancient ac- counts of thefe places are referred to, there is found to be fuch an agreement between them and our own as to border on convidion. — Wiien this fea or ftrait is entered, a clear, uninterrupted horizon to the Eaft, prefents itfelf to view in the longitude of 236° 30' Eaft from Greenwicli, which is no more than 460 leagues from Hudfon Bay, and occupies a fituation to the Eaftward of Mr. Hearne's fea, agreeable to the obfervations before mentioned. If it Ihoulc be alked why thefe Araits were not penetrated, or at leaft fome attempt made to penetrate them, .-.t...., - -•• the \ ^ ANORTHWESTPASSAGE, tf*. H the anfwer Is at hand,<*the dedru^llon of our commercial enterprize by the (hips of his Catholic Mnjefty. The feveral voyages which have been made to the North VVeft Coaft of Ame- rica, pre/'ous to thole of the Felice and Ipliigenia, have each thrown new lights, and made additional difcoveries in that part of the globe. No fooner was the valuable commerce that was to be procured in King George's Sound made known to the world, than the adlive fpirit of adventure arofe ; and, ftrangc as it may appear, four different expeditions ftartcd in the year 1786, from different parts of the globe, to engage in tliis commerce, without any knowledge of each other's defigiis, or of courfe fufpe^ting any kind of compe- tition, until they arrived on the Coaft of America, when, as it may be fuppofed, any difcouraging circumftance would come too late to make the adventurers fh rink from the enterprize. Previous, however, to every other expedition, a vcflel was equipped in China in the year 1 785, by gentlemen of the firft mercantile abilities and reputation • the command of her was cntrufted to Captain James Hanna, who fet fail in her to feek the diftant continent of America, to explore its coafts, and to open fuch an intercourfe with the inhabitants as might tend to a future commercial eftabli(hment with them. The {vie of the vefl'el, which was under -o tons, her equipment, which fcarcely amounted to thirty perfons, and every circum- ftance belonging to her, ferved to imprefs the minds of all concerned in the bufinefs with an high idea of the fpirit of the man who had undertaken to con- duit his little band of Argonauts in an almoft untried courfe, and where dangers were not to be avoided, or prepared for by the communicated experience of pre- ceding adventurers. ■ Captain Hanna, on leaving China, purfued his courfe In the vicinity of Japan, pafting through the Laqueo Iflands, and encountering fogs, vapours, and ftorms. i^isuSid Gz till / i ;. H M *f ^ J \ p ,1; . \ J ''tf ' Ki OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF till he arrived In King George's Sound, — the iecond European after Captain Cook had left it. The natives, prefuming upon the inferior iize of the veflel, and the confined number of the crew, made a defperate attack upon her, which was repulfed by the fuperior bravery and good conduct of their new vifitors. Thef- hoftiHties, however, foon ended in commercial friendfliip ; and aquan* tity of fea-otter (kins was obtained from them. Captain Manna departed from thefe people on the moft friendly terms, and proceeded to the Northward, where he difcovered feveral founds, iflands, and harbours, which he named Fitzhugh's Sound, Lance*s Iflands, and fome particular parts which he named after Henry Lane, £fq ; but particularly an harbour which he called Sea Otter's Harbour. The journal of Captain Hanna was, as might be expected, very curious. He was fo kind as to fubmit the examinatioti of them to us ; and they appeared, in our judgment, to confirm the difcoveries faid to be made by De Fonte, and which may now be faid to be actually realifed by the knowledge we have of the Great Northern Archipelago. Captain Hanna, we find, enters this Sound, as he efleemed it ; whereas it is now known to be a part of the Northern Archipe- lago; but bad weather and an heavy fea obliged him to ufe his utmod expedi- tion in getting out of it. . ^ . , ; V r. ?^ V In this voyage we fee the extent of his difcoveries ; for his fecond voyage to the North Weft Coaftof America, in 1786, did not lead to any thing further than what related to mere commercial adventure ; and, before he could engage in a third, this adive and able Teaman was called to take that voyage from whence there is no return. t . . . , ' It was in 1786, that different bands of trading adventurers ftarted up, as it were, both in India and England, to profecute this commerce. — Frona India, the equipments took place at Bengal and Bombay, under the patronage of the refpeflive governments of thofe places. From the former failed the Nootka i ■ 'firt'iiiiifiMP^ft^ ■ * A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, Wf. Ilfl Nootka and the Sn Otter,— from the latter, the Captain Cook and the Ex- -periment. At the fame period, another equipment took place, for the fame purpofc, in China j and the Sea Otter failed from thence, and was joined by the Lark, which was Htted out with that intention for the coail of America. About the fame time certain merchants in England, and, in particular, the Meflrs. Etches of London, engaged in a fimilar adventure. Having obtftinisd a licenfe from the South Sea Company to carry on this trade excluHvt _, , with regard to England, for the term of five years ; and having been favoured with a permiflion from the Ead India Company to lade teas home from China, thefe gentlemen equipped the (hips King George and Queen Charlotte in a very fupe- rior manner, and gave tlie command of them to Lieutenant Portlock of the royal navy, and who had already been frequently employed by them as mafter of a trading vefiel in their fervice. Thefe fhips left England in the month of Sep- tember, 1785, near feven months before any of the equipments let fall from the different parts of India. The Captain Cook and the Experiment, commanded by the Captains Lowrie andGuife, and under the fuperiuteivdanccofMr. Strange, one of the Company's fervants, failed at the clofe of the year 1785, dr early in the year 1786 : they were equipped in the beft pofTible manner by the public fpirit of David Scott, Efquire, of Bombay, who was the principal owner of them. Their comman* ders were men of abilities, and the inferior officers in every point of fu it able charafler : fo that confidcrable expeilations were formed from fuch an equip* ment. • «■- ,'i I After remaining fome time at Nootka Sound, they explored other parts of the coaft, and arrived in Snug-corner Cove, in Prince William's Sound. In this progrefs they indifputably difcovered that land to wliich Mr. Dixon gave the name of Charlotte's Ifles, which he did merely from conjeftural opinion, as they were never proved to be fuch till Captain Douglas, in the Iphigenia, failed * through Bv OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF through the channel which feparates them from what was then fuppofed to be the American Continent. Mr. Strange nlfo drtk found the bay called Friendly Cove, which received its prefcnt name from that gentleman. The King George and Queen Charlotte, — though they poflTcflTcd the advantage of being fitted out at the port of London, were appointed with numerous crew:; and officers of every denomination, as well ns with an arrangement of Oores, &c. fufficient to command ever/ advantage of trad-, and alfo to make fettle- ments, form fadorics, which they were authorized to do, and build vcflTcls,— their voyage was tedious and dilatory; and tlicir fucccfs, both with refpecl to com- merce or difcovcry, by no means adequate to their fupcrior equipment. After thefe (hips had fcparatcd, the Queen Charlotte proceeded to the South- ward of Prince William's Sound ; and continuing her courfe to that part of the coaft, named by Captain Cook Bchring's Ray, (he entered a port which then received the name of Port Mulgrave. Captain Di on then proceeds to the Cape Edgecumbe of Cook, and from thence traces the coaft till he arrived in a port which was honoured with the appellation of Port Banks; and finally difcovered the Northern part of thofe iflands whofc Southern extremity was firft difco- vered, as has been already mentioned, by the Captains Lowrie and Gulfe. The (hip then takes her courfe down the Weftern fide of thefe iflands ; and, rounding the Southern extremity of them, proceeds partly between them, and what was, at that time, fuppofed to be the continent of America; but apprehcnfive of being entangled among thefe Iflands, (he quitted them at once, and proceeded on her voyage to China. * ■ ■ .\r ■:' The King George remained a confiderable time in Prince William's Sound ; from whence (he difpatched her long-boat, at two different times, to Cook's River, which made a furvey of fome part of the coaft between Prince William's Sound, that bore a confiderable (hare in the general outline. She then left that Sound ; and, after cafually exploring the coaft, and difcovering an harbour or r7 1' ? ANORTH WEST PASSAGE, tfr. If or two, one of which was named Portlock Harbour, (he took her courfe alfo to China ; and both (hips returned to Europe. The Imperial Eagle, Captain Barclay, we believe, failed from Europe the begltn\ing of the year 1787 ; and not only arrived atNootka Sound in Auguft, but explored that part of thecoad from Nootka to Wicananifh, and fo on to a Sound to which he gave his own name. The boat's crew, however, was difpatched, and difcovcrcd the extraordinary ftraits of John de Fuca, and alfo tlie coaft as far as Queeiihythe ;— when, after the fatal cataftrophc which happened to fume of them, this (hip quitted the coaft, and proceeded to Cliina; having performed the whole of the voyage in twelvemonths, wliich employed the King George and Queen Charlotte upwards of two years. The Nootka made no other difcovery but that of diftrefs and misfortune The year 1788 was produtSlive of conncfling, in fome meafure, the detached and fcparate difcoverics of the (hips already mentioned. There were then on the coa(t the (hips Prince of Wales and I'rincefs Royal, the Felice, the Iphigenia, Columbiii, and Wa(hington ; whoeach contributed her (hare towards compleatirtg the charts of the North Weftern part of the world which are attached to this volume. The Princefs Royal, Captain Duncan, in particular, enters the channel that feparates the Charlotte Ifles from the fuppofcd continent, and proceeds exploring both fides; difcovering numerous harbours, founds, and inlets, which complete* ly afcerttins the Northern Archipelago. He occupies almoft a whole fummer in this ftation; and yet, ftrange as it may appear, quits the coaft of America without knowing that Captain Douglas had already taken the fame courfe :— yet has Captain Duncan, as might be expefted from him, added many valuable remarks to the geography of this part of the world. ^ ..,. The Prince of Wales has added alfo coudderably to the geographical defcrip- tion of America. We have only to lament the lofs of her commander to the "I \% country, Ivi OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF qountfy,— a? he is now aprifoner with the Spaniards, aiidftill fuppoied to be ia that ftate of deranged intelleifls which immediately fycceeded the treatment he received from the commander of the Spanifli (hips. The part the Iphigenia and Felice bore in connet^iug thcfe detached furvcys, arc recited at large ia tlie pages of this volume^ , The Wafliington entered the Straits of John de Fucn, the knowledge of \yhich (he had received from us; and, penetrating up them, entered into an extenfive fea, where ftie fteeretl to tlie Northward and Eaftward, and had com- munication with the various tribes who hihabit the (hores of the numerous iflands that are (ituated at the back of Nootka Sound, and fpeak, with fome little variation, the language of the Nootkan people. The track of this veflel is marked on the map, and is of great moment, as it now completely afcertaina that Nootka Sound, and the parts adjacent, are iflands, and comprehended within, the Great Northern Archipelago. The fea alfo, which is feen to the Eaft, is of great extent; and it is from this ftatioaary point, and the mod Wefl^rly parts of Hudfon's Bay, that we form an eftimate of the diftance be- tween them. The moft Eafterly direction of the Wafhington's courfe is to the longitude cf 237° Eaft of Greenwich It is probable, however, that the mafterof that veflTel did not make any aftronomical obfervations to give a juft data of that ftation ; but as we have thofe made by Captain Cook at Nootka Sound, we may be able to form a conjedure fomewhat approaching the truth, concernit)g the diftance between Nootka and theEaftcrnmoft ftation of theWafhington in the Northern Archipeiago; ard, crnfequently, this ftation may be prefumed to be iu the longitude, or thereabouts, of 237° Eaft of Greenwich. The afcer- tained longitude of Fort Churchill is 94° 12' 30", Weft of Greenwich; and, of courfe, the diftance between the Wafhington's moft Eafterly ftation is 1020 geographic miles ; and, by the fame calculation, from Hudfon's Houfe 660. geographic milps ; and in the diredion of Eaft by North : but whether -^M-^'-''"" A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, iic IrU the intermediate part between thefe fixed points be fea, river, or land, is a queftion that muft be left to the refult of future difcovery. • • " ' ■i' ■:■■'/ Thus has been unveiled the whole of the American coaft, particularly thofe parts between the latitudes of 50° and 55° North, and 47' and 48* North; and furely this furvey gives room for fomething more than conjec- ture on the fiibjcft. It will teach us alfo to pay fome attention to the account of former navigators ; fince thofe relations of fome of them which have not only been fufpcded, but abfolutdy determined to be errors or fictions, now turn ©lit to be real difcoveries. Thcfe particulars are fiut]>'"ully extracted from nautical journals, and may be confidcred as intetelting ahv , as they relate to the American commerce. It will, indeed, be for the honour of this country to bring thefe refearches to a conclu- fion ; for though it has been a received opinion that it would be in vain to look for a paflage in Hudfon's Bay to the Southward of 67° latitude ; and when we find held out to our view how much more Northerly (hips muft hold their courfe, at leaft fome part of their voyage, before they can pafs from one fide of America to theothe yet may not the fea feen by Mr. Hearne he that very higheft point ? — May not the Northern Archipelago, the Straits of John de Fuca, and Cook's River, all firetching to the North Eaft— fome of them being more Eaft ward than this fea — maynot thefe be the very paflages ? — Is it not poflible that this very fea, feen by Mr. Hearne to pufli boldly into Hudfon's Bay, or the Southernmoft part of Baf- fin's Bay, be fome inlet or paflage to the Northward of 67° ? If the corroborating proofs of former writers are brought forward, — if the having a knowledge that from the Copper-Mine River the Indians of Prince ' "llUam's Sound and the Northern Archipelago procure their copper ; — if from the Indians thcmfelves we arc informed that great waters, free from ice, ftretch themfelves to the Northward ; — if thefe particulars can be fuppofed to have any weight, how much will it be encrcafcd when it is known that fhips have reached ^i between 'k Mil OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF between 6i and 63 degrees of latitude In Cook's Ktver, where a navigable ftrait, of confiderable extent, appeared to their view, free from ice or impediments of any kind ; and where the rife and fall of the tide was fo great, that there muft be other extenfive channels for the reception of the waters, which can only be to the Eaft. In no part of the year is ice found In Cook's River ; — Mr. Hearne faw none in his fea, except on the margin of the fliores, which may have accumulated there from the influx of frefli fprings, &c. — The Weftern fea of America is alfo at all times navigable and free from ice, as far as we can afcertain, to the latitude of 64° North. 1 rr rj There is but one circumftance more before we clofe what we have to offer in favour of a North Weft paffage, open to the purpofe of navigation.— If, there- fore, we caft our eyes on the general map of the world, particularly on the Northern portion of it to the Eajiy we find laid down on the chart that great extent of land bounded by Baffin's Bay, yet unexplored.— In the Weft we perceive that portion of terra firma, within the ar(5lic circle, bounded by ice, which feparates Afia from America, and which flopped the progrels of Captain Cook ; — let us then caft our eyes on that part of the fea feen by Mr. Hearne, and recon- cile, If we can, the poffibility of its being any partof tlie P'rozen Ocean which we Imagine to flow round thofe lands that arc thought to reach to the Pole. — If it is the Frozen Ocean, to whr.t htight of latitude muft the land of Baffin's Bay ftretch ? — In what latitude the Weftern portion fo bounded by fea ? — We muft either prefume that thefe lands do not reach to the Pole, if this is the Frozen Sea ; or if we conclude that they do, then the fea feen by Mr. Hearne can be no other than the ftrait, or identical paffage between the two oceans. Can It be fuppofed that the Efqulmaux round with their canoes cither Baffin's land or the Weftern portion to arrive at this fea. Should it not rather be believed that thofe people come from the Weftern fide for the copper and « the •uMaMMiiitiiWi' 111 limjjteit til III -Mil A NORTH WEST PASSAG^ Uc. Ik the whale ; and that this creature himfelf had made his paiTage through thofc ytry channels which had conveyed the roving tribe here from Cook's River, Prince William's Sound, or the Northern Archipelago. And if this idea is reje£led, let it be alked finally, by what Tea and by which navigation did the whale come into Mr. Hearne's lea ; whether did he take his courfe round Baf- fin's land, or boldly pulh through the barrier of ice feen by Captain Cook, and which is fuppofed to extend to the Northern pole of the world. Here he is oppofed and rcpulfed, nor do we believe that he ever got round the land of Baffin. We arc bold enough, however, to hazard an opinion, that this fea feen in 72°, or placed by others in 6S° 30' ; or, according to Peter Pond, in 65% is no other than that part of the communicaticn between the Northern Pacific and Atlantic Oceans wliich empties itfelf either in Baffin's, or Hudfon's Bay ; and that through thefe channels, which are fufliciently deep and capacious for navigation, the whale and other huge marine animals find a fafe and eafy paflTage. . •' *> . ' , . wi;.!.; v; 1- ■■■ .■ .- , . i The Indians feen by Mr. Hearne, and who were deflroyed by the party that conduftcd him through his dreary route, were, in all probability, a part of a tribe of the Weftern fide, on an expedition to the mines to procure copper .-« Perhaps they were inhabitants of Cook's River. — Copper abounds amongft thefe numerous tribes; — it is the medium of barter with their more Southern neigh> hours. We have leen in their poflfeffion mafles of confiderable weight from the mines, and of extreme fiuenefs. They told us that they went far Northward for it, and found the ore in the earth, fcattered about, and, as we underftood them, thrown up by a volcano from the fea. — Tlie Indians feen by Mr. Hearne were Efquimaux, agreeing in manners and cuftoms, and inheriting all that tnii'ery of this extenfive tribe, which is perceived on the Wcftern Coaft of /\merica, as far South as to the latitude of 50° North. ' ' . •" ' It has been faid that the Spanifh navigator, Don Francifco Antonio Maurelle in 1775, vlfited that part of the continent of America not ken by Cap- Hz tain ftHliliMil ^--tfif—^sm-: IX OBSERVATIOiV'S ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF tain Cook In his progrefs to the Northward ; and that this voyage, therefore^ Is peculiarly Interefting to navigation, as he pronounces that no fuch flraits are to be found as thofe of De Fuca, or fuch an Archipelago as that of Admiral De Fonte. ■tj/ .!• •. • ■ -v .= • i . i»:w. i -i .v. ^i^'fj V I 1 oi The particulars of this voyage, kept fo fecret by the Court of Spain, has beert communicated to the world by that truly refpe£lable, philofophic and learned gentleman, the Honourable Mr. Daines Harrington. Its fuppofed merits for fome time flood the teft of critlcifm. — It received an additional authority after the return of our laft circumnavigators, as it favoured their opinions that no. credit was to be given to the fuppofed difcoveries of De Fonte or De Fuca, which were now determined to be nothing more than the romance of a for- mer century, or thefI«£lion of an enthufialllc mind. j : nu'/i In our turn, we do not hefitate to pronounce, that no attention whatever is to be paid to the charts of Mr. Maurelle, as totally contrary to truth and fa(fV, They give no idea of the real pofition of the Coaft of America ; and, ofcourfe, involve the journals of the fame navigator, from whence they have been drawn, in their own mifreprefentations. There is no method more ready or more deci- five, than to compare the chart of Maurelle's voyage, with the chart of Captain Cook, or that which has been prepared from the voyage of the F(flice and the Iphigenia, and which comprehend all the difcoveries made by other Britifh navigators who have vifited the American Coaft. Mr. MaureUe*3 chart will then have abided a fair trial, and ofcourfe receive the judgment it deferves. i We have now ftated fully, explicitly, and, we hope, withoiUS ^efumption, the different points which have given rife to our belief in the exiftence of a North Weft paflage. - ' ; ,! An argument on which fo much depends, requires every aid to fupport it that can be derived from any corroborating teftimony ; yet we fhall not attempt to A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, Vc hi to mention fuch as may be doubtful, however favourable they may be to our general purpofe, without expreffiiig our hefitation as to their authenticity. Thus, if Mr. Peter Pond's difcoveries were fatisfaftorily authenticated, they would operate powerfully in our favour, as they would materially correft the route of Mr. Hearne, by altering the fea fcen by that gentleman in 72* to 65", and confequently leave a ready and open communication between Cook's River and that fea ; and, perhaps the liime in Baffin's or Hudfon's Bay ; but we are ready to acknowledge tiiat we are not without our doubts refpeding Mr. Pond; as his account, however, is in every body's hands, we fhall leave its claim to credibility exatfVly in the fame ftate iu which we found it. - But there is an author of great refpedability, whofe observations we have already quoted, to whom we fliall be indebted for further afHAance ; and as he ftates clearly the ancient accounts of the exiftence of the Archipelago of Saint Lazarus, and the Straits of John de Fuca, we rely with certainty on them, and arc thus enabled, by his previous labours, to leflen our own. We (hall only, therefore, with his afliftance, ftate a few leading points, to (hew the grounds on which we reft our belief of the exiftence of thefe places, which have been attri- buted by very learned men to the impoHtion of fome, and the ignorance of others. * .,1' ' »■- = This author obfervcs, that recent navigators have found an archipelago of iflaiids, and the ftrongeft indications of a large river, where fuch are defcribed by Admiral de Fonte : and this, he adds, gives countenance to that too haftily exploded narration.— We have, it is true, old traditions or narratives of the Archipelago of De Fonte, and the Straits of De Fuca, in Hacluit, Purchas and Harris, but on what grounds, or from what difcoveries, is at prefent wrapped in obfcurity. But Mr. Dalrymple comes armed with better authority,— and informs, us that the Burgomafter Witfon, in his fecond edition of theNord and OrtTartarye, in 1705, fays he had in liis pofTeftion the original manufcript ot ill Ixit OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF of the account of the celebrated navigator De Fonta, and not De Fonte, having furveyed Terra del Fuego in 1649.— This circumftance goes very far to prove that fuch a perfon did exift ; and we may confequently form an opinion, that if he performed one voyage in 1649, '^^' ^^ might have accompliflied the other as recited by Purchas, &c. in 1640; and the recent difcoveries of this very Archipelago ferves to countenance this opinion. But be this as it may, and whatever authority may be due to Burgomafter Witfon, we are ready to vouch for the Northern Archipelago being in tlie fame fpot as that of De Fonta. The account of the Straits of De Fuca is no lefs extraordinary. — A very curious piece of intelligence is communicated by him, on the authority of the ■Right Honourable Mr. Greville, who received it from Sir John Macpherfon, to whom it was related by fome Spaniards at the Cape of Good Hope; who in- formed Sir John tliat, very lately, an entrance in the latitude of 47" 45' North was found, which conveyed them in twenty-feven days inco the vicinity of Hudfon's Bay ;— what can be faid to fuch extraordinary intelligence ? John de Fuca, according to Mr. Hacluit, was a Greek pilot, who in 1592, failed into an inlet of great breadth, between the latitudes of 47° and 48°, which led him into a far broader Tea, wherein he failed twenty days, and arrived in the Atlantic Ocean. — He defcribcs a great head-land or iflaud, with an exceedingly high pinnacle rock placed near it, which is, in all pi-obability, the very iiland or headland whereon our friend Tatootchs has !iis town and fortrefs; and as to the pinnacle rock, we have had ocular demonftration of its being placed in the entrance of this fca, as well as tlie great iiland or headland which we have particularized in the voyage of the Felice in that latitude. De Fuca, it feems, communicated this information to Mr. Lock, when that gentleman was at Venice, and offered to perform the voyage, on condition of receiving 60,000 ducats. — The venerable and parfimoni.us miniilers of Queen Elizabeth, amongd whom was Cecil, refufed : Mr. Lociw being unable, out .A-- A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, tic, Uii out of his own private fortune, to reward the pilot, the matter dropped, though he continued to keep up a conilant correfpondence with him. — ^AfFairs taking another turn, it was determined to employ the pilot, and Lock went to Italy in order to bring him to England ; when, on his arrival, he found that the pilot had died a (hort time before. Such is the account given by Hacluit, Purchas, &c. and adopted by all nautical hiftorians lince their time. It is no lefs curious that another man who was at Portugal about thr fame time, flibuld have publiftied a book, treating cf a North Weft paflage, and ftating that he had pan*ed through it. This book was fupprelTed by the Court of Lifbon. — But to corroborate and ftrengthen my own aflerlions, I bring the authority of Captain Barclay's officers, &c. who faw every particular which I declare to have fecn, — having furveyed thefe parts in a boat,— though he him- felf did not go within Tome leagues of the flrait: — It is alfo to be remarked, that the Princefs Royal, Captain Duncan, faw them alio ; and finally, we offer the proofs brouglit by the Wafhington, which failed through a fea that extends upwards of 8 degrees of latitude. In reading the accounts of the ancient voyagers, we were forcibly ftruck with the refemblance between the inhabitants as defcribed by John de Fuca, and thofe with which we had a communicatioiK — Amongft many particulars we will feleft one, which is diretftly in point ; independent of their being cloathed in furs and bears (kins, as he mentions them, he goes on to tell us, that they bind their childrens' heads between two boards when very young, which prac- tice gives the head the form of a fugar-Ioaf ; and in our account of the people of Nootka, this cuftom has been particularly remarked, and we reckon Tatootche among »^he number of Nootkan Princes. — The latitude in which we found this ftrait placi;d, certainly differs from t^at in which the old authors have laid it down ; but that may be eafily accounted for, from the great difference between the crofs flaff, which was the aflronomical inftrument of Columbus, and our quadrant ; — and we believe, even a few years back, our navigators did not at- tend i ■) Ixlv OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF f tend fufficiently to even the correftions neceffary for the fun's declination, which will alfo produce a great difference of calculation. \ J' The furs obtained by the feveral adventurers to the North Weft Coaft of America, have been carried to the Canton market, where they were fold at very high prices.— The circumftance of fupplying this market with American furs, has proved the means of opening a channel of trade between England ^ and I ■ • I i i 1!^ Ixxiv ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE h) ii .k and China, for the Canadian and Hudfon Ray furl, which had not hitherto been attempted. — ^Thcfc furs alfo fold extremely well, ' ". i ^ . * The commerce between Great Britain and the Empire of China, is altoge- ther of fuch importance, that an invcftlgation of thofe caufes which ope- rate to continue the balance of trade againfl us, and which may lead to a difcovery of the means not only to diminifh that balance, but to turn it in our favour, will, I trud, be favourably received by the public ; and, in a particular manner, by that great commercial body, the Henourable £aft India Company. — It is, indeed, but judice to declare, that much ha» already been done by them; at the fame time truth compels me to obferve, that much yet remains to be done, not only in giving every pof)ible aug- mentation to the exports of this country, but in opening new channels of commerce, whenever and wherever opportunity offers to accomplifli fuch a defirable object. In purfuing the general outline of this fubjeA, and we do not profefs to be fo minutely informed as to engage in a minute difcufTion of it, we (haJl clafs the commerce of China under the following heads: — Firft. The trade between China and Ruflia, by land ; in which may be included the North Weftern commerce by fc-a, as the principal llaple com- modities are chiefly furs, in which England participates, from the large quan- tity of the Canadian and Hudfon's Bay furs fent from this country to Ruflia, and from thence, by the RuiTian merchants, by a long and circuitous \.md carriage to Pekin, Secondly. The commercial connection between Great Britain and China. Thirdly. The commerce between foreign nations with the country powers in India and China. ; . I k FETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. Ix«t ft is not neceflary for me, were it in my power, to defcribe the vaft extent of the Chinefe Empire, and the ftate of its prodigious population. It is fufficieat to obferve tliat fuch a country, and fuch a people, would form a commercial alliance of the firft magnitude with Great Britain. The Cnglilh certainly enjoy tiie far greater part of the import trade at Canton ; but tlic whole Eurppeaii commerce, which, of courfe, involves our own, labours beneath very oppreffive* and encreadng difadvantages. Nor can I undcrfland upon what principle of found policy we continue to fubmit to the will and pleafure of the Chinefe go- vernment, in our commercial concerns with it* If we were to form our opinions of the general chara£ler of the inhabitants of China from tliofo who inhabit the banks of tlie Canton River, it would be doing them a great injufticc. A trading fi-a-port, which offers little or no other communication tliaii with Cudom-houfc officers, brokers, and the inferior rank of tradefmen, docs not qualify the voyager to judge of the nation to which it belongs ; but, forming our opinion from tliofe who have had opportunities of vifiting the interior parts of China, we are .difpofed to believe that the Chi- nefe are a liberal, enlightened and poliOied people, and that they profefs them- felves of fuch a character. It cannot therefore be fuppoied, if an AmbaiTa- dor was fent to China from this country, with all the appropriate accompany- ments of fucfa a charaQer, that he would not be received with fuitable refpeft and dignity. Various are the opprefllons which affliA our commerce with .. iart of the Eaft, and it would require, perhaps, confummate (kill in the arts of negociation, as well as a complete knowledge of the commercial hiftory of China, and of the temper of the people, to bring any liberal arrangement of commerce be- tween the two nations to a conclufion. The Chinefe are well acquainted with the power of Great Britain, and they regard it with very confiderable apprehenfion. I relate it as an incontrovertible fail, that the Hoppo or Vice- Roy of Canton, in the year 1789, in his ufual information to the Court at ^ » ' Pekin, i^' I .iHl} -■at^W;^^^ liivi ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE S Pekin, tranfmitted a falfe account of the European (hipping at his port. The encreaHng number of them, particularly thofe of the Englifh nation, was rather an alarming circumftance to the minifterial officers at Canton ; and had the Emperor been informed of it, tliey would have been fubjeft to his dif' pleafure, from the fuppofed danger of fufFcring fuch an aflemblage of foreign veflels. But they huflied their own fears, and fatisficd their patriotic (cru- pies, by remitting the ulual revenues aiifnig from foreign trade to the Royal treafury, and configning the encroafed collctftion of duties to their own coffers. At this port, as if it were contrived to fhackle and opprcfs the European commerce, every tranfaiflion, of a commercial nature, comes under the jurif- didtion of a body of merchants, confining of eleven perfons, or more, who arc named the Hung, or the Houang. ' • On the arrival of a (hip at Canton, one of thcfc merchants is appointed to condu£l all her commercial concerns. He is then termed the fccurity mer- chant, and every trading tranfac'^ion, relative to the veflel over which he is placed, entirely depends upon his controuling pleafure.— With this extraor- dinary authority, he polTcflcs the power of arranging the trade of the cargo which he fupcrintends, in any fhape that may beft anfwcr liis private .id- vantage. If, therefore, it Ihould appear to he his intcreft to prevent the im- ported articles from coming to an equitable market, he will, by no means,* con- fider the importer, but himfelf. For the native who wants to buy, and the' ilranger who wants to f(.ll, can have no communication with each otiier. — It is this ftrangc oppreflive, intermediate official mcrch.nnt, who a.fls for both, and to whofe arbitrary dictates both muft (ubmit, without any means of revifion or of appeal. While this fet of men remain in their prefent (late of power, the imports can never come to a fair market, or the exports be reduced by competition to an equal ftandard. . ; ... .,i,.j„ The a- BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. ItxrW The greater as well as inferior Mandarins or Cuftom-houfe officers, fubjed the Houang merchants, in their turns, to heavy impofitions, for which thelattef reimburfe themfelves, by levying contributions on the European commerce* All goods entered at Canton pay a ve.*^ exorbitant duty in the firft inflance ;-« and if their owner Ihould exercifc the power which he has of objecting to tht Houang merchant's price, he neverthelefs cannot rcembark a fingle article of them : as merchandize once landed at the port of Canton, can never be re* moved from thence, but by the native trader who may purchafe it, A greater check on the fpirit of commerce cannot be well conceived than fuch a ty* rannical regulation. ,,, ,, , The duties, at this port, have long been in a (late of progreflTve encreafe,. and have, within thefe few years, advanced to 50 per cent.— The a£tual amount of tiicm being no longer paid into the Royal treafury, for the rea* Tons already mentioned, the Mandarins are become more and morej avaricious, in proportion as the revenue from the duties eucreafes ; and, as they are impofed at the plcafure of the Hoppo or Vice-Roy, he contrives to accumulate an immcnfc fortune during his adminiftration ; which, however, he is ob- liged to fhare, ii> fome degree, with the miniflers at Pekin, in order to prevent R difcovery of his extortions on the Europeans at Canton, r,., . All (hips on their firft arrival, pay a certain meafurement, which is calcu- lated by their tonnage, amounting to an heavy fum, and, within a few years, has been greatly augmented. A fhip belonging to the Eaft India Company, pays, I believe, from j^.Soa to ^\ 1 200. All goods muft be conveyed on fliore by the boats of the country, fo that continual robberies are committed on the cargoes fent for the ftiip to Canton^ which is diftant about fourteen miles ; and ftpnge as it may feem, no remedy is to be found, or punifhment inflicted ■upon fuch open injuftice. The Houang man is the only pcrfon to whom an European! i • i t I Wki.:: ACCOUVT Of TMk T11401 Evf^ao hu aceefi ; ib that th« Fofvign mtdkuu U hk m^ft^f ^ the mmrcjr «f M agaat irhoie intcreft it u to opptrcA him tht Moft> All European! are prohibited from entering the city of Canton ; and if any fhould perfift in paying it a dandeftine vifit, ai fonie have dono, they are feverely bambooed and turned back again. The Chinde call an European a l^nquL It muft, however, he oWerved, that the idea oftheHouang merchant* being fecurity for each other, is entirely fallacious ;~for thefe commercial guardiaiu tre fometimes known to become bankrupts, and many Europeans have fuilered feverely by the failure of them. I have fbnie rcafou to imagine that the debts due to Britifli merchants, and on which account Captain Panton in the Race- horfe, was fent to Canton, are not yet liquidated ; and which, bebg incurred by the failure of a very confiderable Houang merchant, evidently proves that this body of men are not fecurity for each other. This debt amounted to fome hundred thoufand pounds, part of M^ich has been paid by inftallments, viiddi have been in a courfe of payment for the fpace of ten years, without lnterfc(b— >This nwney has, however, in h€t been paid by the Europeans them- felves ; as, in order to difcharge the debt, an additional duty has been laid on all European articles, which ftill continues : and as Great Britain poflefles by iu the greateft fliare of the China trade, (he fuffers proportionably in thefe lieavy and accumulating impofitions. This embafly did not greatly enhance the confequence of the Englifli nation in the opinion of the Chinefe. — Lord Anfon and Captain Panton (lood in a very different view of refpe£t and importance,— >not that I mean to be under- ilood as if the latter gentleman was deficient in any of thoie requifites which could give confequence or ef)e£t to his conuniffion ; on the contrary, he pof- ieffiid them all,— but he was not, by any means, properly fupported, or cloathed with Ion i 'I ch ith » ,',: I. a ^p^ «*»■ a^i 1 i4 1 1 m •> r .^ .^ ^^ e Hi -•i" - wflW^'J^ftftf^f* 11 t> \i' . V p% 1 L >l"l*l» ..tl<> ■ ^^s^fN^ifri'' < 1 H J I |i 1- 1 A. I. u \vij«t ,u t'U!iit.'i:i; r)'i; ac'-uflv»n»hiapn!i.- >rion "M/»« m:'A ■'■■■ 'l -wple vt'itti s. ,i tu i'hfnK, it . .tton :, i:ri vvhici* •vt;iKn- (haf difei ■. > ■ I'.vt tiiaiB- r:.^:Uc*/. jfi.,ii*iv {i»H>ca "^'fts^a •i j';i'!t iox tkt . tcmdiril I! tf> i^'.f "^ .'■ ■ i*. 0fi«l : J*.»»ju*v ; bciojpnfAaaeH t , * ^ 1,1 1 1^^ 1. > i w a i^^ :; I ^ i ^. r'j..u ilH^i t>''.- •til \-. ■■::.[ ^m fef.' M iifi '» w^M>^>,^iV-v^iMl£Ui£, . -'•) i. ' I J* ». ■Ji* -JS_i ^il' ii jiii r -^ A NOHTH WEST PASSAGE, «*f. . tad* with that official confequence, neceflary to imprcfs the China people with a due refpeA for, and awe of the country from which fee came*; u It is indeed a very evident, as well as mortifying proof, that the Englifh name does not poflefs that confequence with the Chinefe, which it merits in every country and corner of the globe, from their conduA towards the Eaft Ipdia Company's fervants, who conflantly remove to the Portuguefe city of Macao for feveral months of the year. * '&':!! In the feafon of 1789, on the arrival of the Company's (hip in China, it became neceiTary for the fupercargoes to remove, as ufual, to Canton ; on which the accuftomed application was made to the Chinefe for the common formality of permiffion.— This was, however, peremptorily refufed, on the pretence that this application fhould be made through the Portuguefe, who refufed to exert them- felves; and thereby the Portuguefe governor of Macao had the power of throwing veryconfiderable impediments in the way of the Britifh commerce. This dif- agreeable bufinefs was, however, at length fettled, but not without coufiderable delay, and, in all probability, fome extortion. — But during this oppreiHve interval, the valuable (hips of tlie Eaft India Company lay at anchor in the Bocca Tigris, or at Wampoa, as they arrived, and without being able to procure the ufual re- frefhments. Indeed the enormous fums conftantly paid for the removal of the Company's fervants to and fmnj Canton, from whence they are forced by the Chinefe, is not only a great commercial enormity, but a degrading compliance on the part of Great Britain. f 1V1 ,,,, .,. The Portuguefe alfo, in this diftant fettlement, alTume a language and coft- dua to Britifti fubjecEls, which cannot be at all reconciled with the comparative ftate of the ftrength, power and importance of their refpcftive nations. It is no uncommon thing at Macao, for the Company's fervants to be imprifoned and otherwife ill-treated on the flighteft pretences, and obliged to praVSlife fub- miflions which the fervile avarice of commerce can alone induce them to fuffcr, while it iilences the refentment of thofe who employ them. - . From !"«!' A-^ 4fek ¥ Ikis account of the TRADE From alt'thefe circumftances the conclufion is at once forcible and evideut,— that the trade between Great Britain and China fliould be arranged on an .equal and refpedtable eftabliftiment.— Nor, if the proper means were employed, would fuch a defirable object be fo difficult to accomplifh as is generally imagined. It is not to be fuppofed that the infant trade of the North Weft Coaft of America to China efcaped thofc deprefling arrangements which narrow the advantages and difgrace the fpirit of the long eftabliflied and fuperior channels of commerce with this part of the Eaftern world.— Wc felt and execrated the incSnveniences of them; but ftill a profpeft of confiderable advantage unfolds itfelf to the views of j liberated commerce, which would juftify any encourage- ment from this country. No communication had as yet taken place between the Ruflian Kamfchadale and Siberian Provinces with China, but by land ; and that mtercourfe having been interrupted for many years, in confequence of difputes which arofe, and have never been fettled between the courts of Peterlburg and Pekin, — it became a matter of contemplation to have connected, in a great degree, the commerce of the North Weft Coaft of America, and thefc provinces with that of China and Japan.— If fiich a projeA had been carried into effeft, it would have pro- duced very beneficial confequences to this country ; as her manu&£lures, inft'ead of being fent through the empire, of Ruflia, by way of Peterfburg, and from thence into Siberia and Kiufcha, would have been imported Immediately by fea, and the furs of thofe countries received in barter ; which, with the Noith Weft American furs, would have been fold at Canton, and the proceeds, from the natural channels of commerce, paid without compun£lion into the Engltfti treafury there, which would tend toleflen the exports of bullion from this country. By this trade, Great Britain might have encreafed her exports of broad doth, coarfe woollens, cottons, linens, hardware, and her tin and copper in all #- BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. I»sl all the variety of articles into which thofe metals are manufaAured ; for which would br received, as before obferved, furs of all the various and valuable kinds with which that part of the world abounds. The quantity of exports muft have been very confiderable to fupply the RufTian provinces; and fupply- ing them by this mode would prove the means of beating out of the market thofe French woollens and ironmongery with which it is now fupplied ;— as it cannot be fuppofed that the inliabitants would not prefer the folid and lading manufaAures of England to the flight cloths and brittle hardwares of France. The confidcration of this part of the Northern commerce naturally forces upon oar attention the neceflity of opening the Northern provinces of China, as well as the kingdom of Japan, in order to extend this chain of commercial intercourfr. Such an arrangement would open an inftant and extenfive chan- nel for Britifli manufa£lures, particularly thofe of tin and copper> more eipecially the former; the exports of which being of the firft importance to this country, we coniider as a fubje£l that demands a diflind difcuflion, which it will receive in the fucceeding part of thefe obfervations. • ' The prefent exclufion of the European nations from all the ports of the Chinefe empire, except Canton, is a ferious difadvantage to Great Britain.— While from the arbitrary regulations of the Chinefe government refpeCt'mg Eu- ropean commerce, our exports, beiides the heavy duties to which they are fubjedt, are taken by the purchafers at a price fixed by themfelves. The fame tyrannical and diflioneft principle operates to enhance the price of every article we receive in return, and is the caufe that fo much bad tea is imported intd this country. It would be equally idle and impertinent to obferve on the prevailing habits of all ranks of Britifli fubjefts for the beverage produced by this oriental plant. It has loqg ceafed to be a luxury among the great; and io become a \ L kind J I ,^' HI I \i ^t, lM«n ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE kiad of necelTaiy of life even among the poor. — Though produced in the mc^ diftant quarter o( the globe, its ufe is fo naturalized to this country, as to be an article of general confumptioii, and productive of a very confiderable pub- lie revenue*. . , i . . , s ,!. If» therefore, it is i national ubje£t to procure the teas and manufa£lures of China of bettci ^alities and at a cheaper rate,— fume method (hould be devifed by the Brunn government to procure the Northern ports of that coun- try to be opened to us, as well as to emancipate our trade from rhe vexatious bondage beneath which it groans in the only Chinefe port which our fliips are allowed to enter. To eSeGt this, — and I have not the leaft doubt • but it might be effedled, — it is humbly fubmitted, whether it might not be proper to lend an embafly dite&ly toPeki»» with fuch a degree of confequencc and fplen- dour attached to it, as becomes the reprefentative of a British monarch bearing hi» credentials to the fplendid court of a great Oriental fovereigu. M The opening the door of thefe ports, by encreaHng and improving the means of communication between the two countries, would produce the greateft ad- vantages to each; and, without enumerating the particular benefits which would be derived to our own, I fliall juft obfervc, that by the exports of our tin alone, commerce would add an artificial mine of national wealth to thofe which nature has already beflowed on Great Britain. In confequence of fuch an arrangement, the hitherto little known, but poliflied and wealthy kingdom of .,,,-,,.,..„ ........ .-,..,. Corea» * This herb, which is fuppofcd to poflefs qualities of a pernicions tendency bv many medical writen, is, on the contrary, confidered in China as replete with medicinal virtues. Its ufe in the country where it grows is univerfal and continual ; and a doubt of ks (alutary nature, would be treated there, as arifing from the moft inveterate folly, or the grofleft ignorance.— An inhabiunt of China will tell you, that it braces the nerves,— invigonups their tone,— ftrengthens the llomacb» and relieves depreflion. — It fhould, however, be obt'erved, that the black teas only are in general ufe among the Chinefe ; and that the green and bloom tCM are in a g^at d&rce, if not aUogothsr> aianvftAnred for foreign markets. ■ *' BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. liuiU Corea, would be open to the Britifh adventurer t and, independent of the empire of Japan* we know not how to exprefa our idea of the vaft and inexhauftlble fources of commercial advantage that would be gained by purfuing the fyftem which is the objeA of this memoir to fugged and to recommend. ' n ";. The fined teas are produced by the Northern provinces ;—we ihould therefore receive them from thence free from that adulteration which the avarice of the Houang merchant not only allows but encourages. The raw filkof thofe countries would alfo come to our market of the iineft quality. The kingdom of Corea would receive, and eagerly receive, the fame manu« fa£tures as China, with this important addition, — that in fo cold a climate, they would have our woollens directly from ourfclves, inAead of the light French cloths which make their way to them by the circuitous route of Pekin from RuflTia, or more immediately from Canton. But on account of the very high price of woollen goods, occafioncd by the expenfive mode of importing them, tbefe people have recourie to thick printed cottons, which, after all, are by no means fufficient to protcft them frofla the feverity of their winters. This coun- try produces the fined tea, but no filk. The Coreans receive it however from China, and return it thither to great advantage, worked up into (ilks and da< malks, of a very fine and rich fabric. It is here> alfb that the curious failing waggon is to be fecn, which is a very ferviceable machine in the low and marfhy grounds towards the Corean fea. ... i'. The empire of Japan may be confidered as a fource of commerce diflinA from that of Chma ; but it is, neverthelefs, open to the fame fpirit of commercial adventure, — contains fimilar rcfources, and promifes to be a mofl profitable mart for Britifh manufadures. The communication which one of the fhips captured by the Spaniards at Nootka Sound, had with this country, in her voyage to the North WeflCoaft of America, proves, in the fulled manner, that the in- habitants would gladly enter into a trading intercourfe with us. It was, indeed, Li intended I f > bnni« ACCOUNT OF THl TRAD intended to have fent a fliip from Canton in the prefent year 1 790, had not the North Weftem commerce been interrupted, and for a time, at lead, deftroycd by the fliips of his Catholic Majefty. From very refptStthle authority we are aflured, that furs fell there at an immenfe price, while the country, climate, and inhabitants will warrant a more than probable conjecture, that fuch a commer- cial intercourfe would prove highly advantageous to this kingdom* China exports thither a few broad cloths, filks, cottons, fiigar, hardware, furs, and tin in blocks, which fetches there almoft the price of (ilver, as they ufe it not only for all culinary purpofes, but to form thofe veiTels and ornaments which they employ in their religious ceremonies.— In return for thefe articles, the Chinefe receive gold, fine teas, and pure copper. But, upoA the whok, the trade is not very confiderable between thefe countries. It is well known that the only European nation which enjoys a commercial connection with the Japanefe, are the Dutch. Four Dutch fhips are annually difpatched thither from Batavia, and each of them pays an hundred thoufand dollars for the privilege of this profitable traffic ; of which a very adequate idea may be formed, when it will bear the previous import of fuch an enormou* lum. — The Dutch are too fcnfiblc of the advantages of this monopoly, not to clothe the whole in all pofFiWe fecrecy, or to colour it with every kind of faHa- cious defcriptlon. But however ignorant we may be of their particular ino- ports, exports, and mode of trade, we cannot but know that it is extremely advantageous to them, and would, confequently, prove of equal, if not fuperior bencnt to us. It may not be improper to add, that there is every rtafou to fuppofe the navigation to and from Japan to be a very fafe one, when un* dertaken at particular feafbns. The Chinefe alfo engage in a traffic between the Philippines and Japan in the South. They import from the former wrought filks, gold, copper, and iron ; and «*■ BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. Jaixr and carry to the latter, fpices, pepper, filver, and fugar.— Tbia trade ia very profitable tb themfelves, and extremely detrimental to the fubjeAs of Spain. If a Britifli fettlement could beeftabliflied on one of the Southemmoft of the Coreaa ifles, it would facilitate the intercourfe between Great Britain and thefo parts of the globe.— Nor would the difficulty of compleating fuch a plan oc- cadon any uncommon ri(k, or demand more than common exertions ; as we are given to underdaiid that the natives are a mild, humane, and |H>li(hed race of people, who would not hefitateto give the Britifli voyager a moft welcome reception. The pradlic.ibility of fuch a colony, need not require any other argument, when it is known that on the Northernmofl of thefe iflands the Ruiflanshave formed a fettlement. Befides the general Briti(h exports, — to which advantageous circumftance we are fo continually obliged to recur, — the opening thefe channels would give new {lability to the fur-trade, and enable us to annihilate, in a great meafure, this profitable branch of the Ruflian commerce. The Rufifian fettlements on Cook's River, down the Coaft of America to the Southward, and on that chain of iflands called the Fox Iflands, for the fole purpofe of colleAing furs, toge- ther with the encouragement given by the Emprefs Catherine to all adventu- rers in, as well as the protection (he holds forth to merchants who regularly profecute the trade between China and her dominions, by way of Kiafcha, as fet fytib with equal accuracy and ability by Mr. Cox, in his account of the Ruflian difcoveries, are circumftances which difcovcr, in the fulleft manner the opinion which the court of Petcrftjurg entertains of tliis commerce. One branch of this trade,— the fupplying China with the Canadian or Hudfon's Bay furs,— we hope is already removed to this country, and that they will no longer find their way tliither by the intermediate aid of the Ruflian mer- chants. <» / hiMfl ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE It may be faid, without any fear of contradiAion, tbat this advantage hai been obtained by the importation of the North WeA American furs into Canton : and there can be as little doubt that the continuance of fuch imports will ierve to augment it. — The reputation of the fea>otter skins brought no inconnderable bmly of the Northern Chinefe and Pckiu merchants to Canton, a port which they had never before vidtcd, and at the didance of junr one thoufand miles from the places of their refidencc. — Yet notwithAandiiig the length of this commercial journey, they found it anfwer to their entire llitis- fa£Uon, from being able to obtain the fame fpecies of fuis which they had been accuAomed to purchafe at Kiafchn, at a price fo much below the ufual rate of that market. They arrived at Canton laJeif with teas, filk and ivorv; and took back in return, furs and broad-cloths. — The cloths imported by the Eaft India Company, were diftinguiftied by their particular preference and ad- miration ; nor did they hefitate to acknowledge their great fuperiority over any woollens they had ever nqccived by the way of Kiafcha. Furs form the principal and favourite drefs of the inhabitants of the Norths era provinces of China ; and thofe of the rareft kind and the highefl prices are eagerly purchafed by them. — From five hundred to a thoufand dollars, and even a larger fum, are frequently given for a fingle fuit of this precious cloathing. . . « ,. > The skin of the feaotter, from the thicknefsof its pile and the length :niay, •Mirt MAMi:. COMMANDim. SoUinan Shaw •- Gangavar ' — New Triumph — Milfoid — Shaw Ardefcer — Vif>or!a Snow — Boddam — K*yal Chariotte — Sutlimancy Urab — Caitier — Ganfava ^ General Meadowi — Hornby ^ Camatic — Shav Biram — Darius — Sural Caftle Thamttim Tax But Enterprize — Nancy — Clive — Bombay — Prince of Wales - Hindoftan — Jofeph M' Intofh William Robinfon George Smith William Henderfon Kichard Rainfay ■David Jordan John Anfon Smith William Watfon William Stuart James Nalh James Jamifon Robert Billainore Charles ChriO. M' Intofli Francis Simpfon lliunias Meek William Maughan Henry Lowrie William Roy Paul Shercrafi Charles Edward Macklow John Robertfon James Wiiron James Wilcot Francis Edwards Fnm Btmtaj) l» Sural. Sultan — James Caliender Fier Refoal Mucky — ' George Milford Nelfon Fics AUum — John Swaine f row Bengal an Jibe Malay Coafl la BtngaU SHIPS N.\Mt>. COMMANDERS, Cornnullls — David Ciimming NonriK-h — John Canning Siuprlze — John Phillips h'nm Bengal and the Malay CoaJIio Btmiaj. Cheerful ' — John fclmore fnm Bombay n Madras and Bomiaj, Yarmouth — Thomas Bruce Frfu Bomhiiy to Bengal and Bomhjy. Britannia Snow — 1 lioiuas Hardy Fiom Madras la Bombay. Henry — George (i^loway From Bombay to Bfn^al. Refolution — James Watfon , From Btnjiat and Batavia to Btn^al. Warren Haftings Nicholas Cheminant i .-om Bombay it Pegu and Bengal. Ilibcrnia — VVilliam I'olly Indus From Bombay and Madras lo Bombay, — William Dixon From China lo ihe N. V. CoaJI of America. Argonaut ^ James Colnett Princefs Royal — '1 liomas Hiidfon « A UJl of Foreign Ships trading to China in 1789; Dutch. SHITS MAMI8. COMMANDERS Meeryk — Dclfi Chrifteflel Columbus Sdiagen — Maria Cornelia — lVf4iller Swetman Pieterfeen Stokbroo Moddemun French. Dauphia — Duval Favereub King of Dcnmafk — Danijb. Torilow AmtrieaH, Antony Brig ^ Sampfon ^ Maflachuflctts — A Area — Uwoa — Richard Proler Samuel Howell Benjamin Carpenter James Magee Joha AOimead American eonlinued. SHIPS NAMES. William and Henry Brig Three Siflers ditto — Federalift — Atlantic — Light Horfe — America — Tay — — Waftiington — Morfe Columbia COMMAMDERS. Benjamin Hodges Benjam:i> Weft Richard D«. v It has indeed been objected, that tlie very great export of bullion from this country, abfoluteiy neceflary to purchafe the homeward bound inveftments, is, in faifV, a national difadvantage, which the accompanying exports of our manufa«flures by no means indemnify. This unfavourable reprefentation of the China commerce, has, I muft own, too much foundation. But it is well known to have undergone a very confiderable change in the very point on which thofe who are difpofed to condemn it, reft their objeiftious. The exports of buUioa have been for fome years, and are now in a gradual ftate of decreafe, while the exports of Britifh manufaflures are in a proportionable ftate of aug- mentation : and if we add, which furely may be done upon the moft fatisfa Se ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE from this country to the fame quarter of the globe. The manner in which the Company have it manufaftwred, in fmall bars, gives it an advantageous re- femblance to the Japan copper. Of this very valuable metal Cornwall produces the fineft in Europe; and as the Dutcli have not lately imported any from Japan, on account of its advanced price, the Eaft India Company have the fame profpedt of encreafing gain from copper as from tin, as they arc able to unilerfcU the Japanefe in their own market. I( But a new and very faHiionable article of the China market is tin, which will be found to be annually adding a very important proportion to the exports of the Eaft India Company. The country at large, and the county of Corn- wall in particular, are very much indebted to Mr. George Unwin of the Royal Navy, for the difcovery and introdu(ftion of this valuable branch of the prefent China trade, when he was employed in the Company's fervice, and which may now be confidered as a ftaple article, from whence the Britifh commerce will derive a very folid, and, as I truft, a lafling advantage. To that gentleman I am particularly indebted for much valuable information on this fubjeft ; and whatever individual or general advantage proceeds from what I may call this new current of trade, it is to the indefatigable and commercial zeal of Mr. Unwia that Great. Britain owes her acknowledgements. It was, indeed, at a critical moment for the county of Cornwall, when this unexpe(fled channel was opened for the confumption of tin. — The trade for this article was, at this time, on a very rapid decline ; the mining parifhes began to experience the greateft dif- trefs, and tlic demand for it in the European markets was greatly decreafed, on account of the late war, and the riling troubles of Europe ; fo that in the fhort I'pace of nine months, tin became reduced one-fifth in value, wliich was a clear lufs, befides the attendant inconvenience and diflrefs, of jr.40,000 />er annum to the county of Cornwall: nor did the future profpedl offer any thing like en- couragement or coulblation to that refpedabJe body of men who compofe the propriety B E T W E E N N. W. A M E R I C A A N D C H 1 N A. Mt fjropriety of the mining eftates in that valuable province. But the China com- merce has revived their hopes, and I truft will not only re-efl:abli(h the original conlequence of this part of Great Britain, but give it nevir vigour and encreafing opulence, ■ •■ "' ' > ■ ; ^ ■ •// We feel, indeed, the greateft fatisfaftion, in ftatlng our expeftations on this fubjeiSt, that we do not proceed merely upon conjeftures, however probable, but on fads, as we truft, decifive of the returning and encreafing profperity of this ancient fource of Britifh wealth. During the long period the Eaft India Com- pany have traded to China, the \fHO\.TS. of ihe'ir exports , including every commercial article^ have not amounted to more than j(^. 100,900, 'till within the laft five years ; and in that time, the average exports in their fhips, in thirteen months'^ or two feafons, from Cornwall alone, have amounted to 2000 tons of tin, value jf. 130,000, befides her (hare of copper. r-/«U-iM*«-«. a .'i*^ of the K\ ^ L y K -^ "'^* ^•^Ofgtj Ar V, ttff of the N.W. Coafl of AMERICA and N.E. Coaft of \SIA explored in th< hy CAPT!" COOK; and further explored, in 1788, and 1789. o ^ / f; -iV r .A ^ ■ Mul 'g^aT© ■'^oeof *foHTojrsot Bald] C.D< •f/ti •^«&. '^"^A *onj Oi a 10 A R O A\ J CHART rCAand N.E.Coaft of AS IA.explored in the Years 1778.&1779, hy capt!" Cook, Ind further explored, in 1788, and 1789. r »um iMulgi., ave goJ A K. R o O^f.O ^ ^' \ o .. p i^ r C it ^ •^> •^. '''»rkn ^ ^ -^ O ^ ^ 7^ y^ .-^^VA • V^«s. ^ "" H-Ofc O X ^r'/«&Jt#/li^*»5«i»» ^ _#. • ^u^- ^ iV ^asJr '^^^%»^^?^ v /I? tt J So Long^Uide Eaft/ of Greenwich v<^^ .r./faytvood.del, A^yj J'*Af€irfuij CburvA litrrC, OJ ' ' SbiU/i'w miiKr x^---'i^-- • I « I c^^'^Sk ' V O Y A G E TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, -^^ j^.#j,-. In the Years 1788 and 1789, ^c. C H A P. I. Preparatiom for the Voyage. — Tianna, a Prince of the IJland Arooi, and otlxr Natives of the Sandwich Isles emharh-^CharaiUr of TiK^nfik.— Complement of the Crew of hoth Ships. — ^antity ofCattle^Uc. embarked for the Sandwich Isles. — Departure of the Felicb and IpHiOEtiiA from China. IN the month of January 1788, in conjun the other. It was intended, that at the clofe of the autumn of this year,, (he (hould quit the coaft of America, and fteer to the Sandwich Iflands, for the purpofe of wintering there ; (he was then to return to America^ in order to meet her confort from China, with a fupply of neceflTary ftores and refre(hments, fu(ficient for the eftabliihing fa-Slories, and ex- tending the plan of commerce in which we had engaged. The crews of thefe (hips confifted of Europeans and China-men, with a larger proportion of the former. The Chinefe were, on this occadon, (hipped as an experiment :— they have been generally efteemed an hardy, and induftrious, as well as ingenious race of people ; they live on fi(h and tice, and, requiring but low wages, it was a matter alfo of oeconomical condderation to employ them ; and during the whole of the voyage there was every reafon to be fati'Sfied with their fervices. — If hereafter trading ports (hould be eftabli(hed on the American coaft, a colony of thefe men would be a very important acqulfition» I The command of the Iphigenia was given to Mr. Douglas, an officer of con(iderable merit, who was well acquainted with the coaft of America, and, on that account, was the moft proper per(bn to be entrurted with the charge of conducing this commercial expeditions The crew contained artificers of various denominations, among whom were Chinefe fmiths and carpenters, as well as European artizaus; ferming, in the whole, a complement of forty men. The \\ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The crew of the Felice was compofed of the fame ufeful and neceflary 1778. clafles of people, and amounted to fifty men :— this (hip was commanded Ja""*"* by myfelf. A much greater number of Chinefe folicited to enter into this fervice than could be received j and fb fi>r did the fpirit of enterprize influence them, that thofe we were under the neceflity of refufing, gave the moft unequivocal marks of mortification and difappointment. — From the many who offered themfelves, fifty were felefted, as fully fufficient for the purpofes of the voyage: they were, a? has been already obferved, chiefly handicraft-men, of various kinds, with a fmall proportion of failors who had been ufed to the junks which navigate every part of the Chinefe feas. In a voyage of fo long contuiuance, and fuch various climates, very feri- ous and natural apprehenfions were entertained of the inconvenienciesand dangers arifing from the fcurvy, that cruel fcourge of maritime life. Every precaution therefore that humanity or experience could fuggeft, was taken to prevent its approach, to lefTen its violence, and effe&. its cure : large quantities of molafles, with fufl!icient proportions of tea, fugar, and every other article that might contribute to thefe falutary ends, were carefully provided. Each veflel carried near five months water, allowing one gallon per day for each pcrfon on board, a plentiful fupply of which being one of the moft effetSlual preventives of this diforder. Warm cloathing of every kind was provided for the crews, as well Chinefe as Europeans : In (hort, every thing was pro- cured that China produced, to render both vefiels as complete as poffible, and to enfure, as far as human means could be exerted, fuccefs to the voyage, and comfort to every denomination of people who were employed in It. As Among i 1 .1' £,,'•» i '1 X:< 1788. January. VOYAGES TO THE Among other objefts of this voynge there was one, at leaft, of the moft difinterefttd nature, and the pureft fatisfa£lion ; and that was to take back, to then- rcfpeilive homes, thofc people who had been brought from America and the Sandwich Iflands. A certain number of cattle and other ufcful animals were purchafed and taken on board, for the purpofe of being put on fliore at thofe places where they might add ta the comfort of the inhabitants, or promife to fupply the future naviga- tor, of our own, or any other country, with the neceflary refrefli- ments. In fulfilling this pleafing duty to thefe children of nature, whom a curious fpirit and an unfufpeding charadler had led to fuch a diftance from their native country, a very marked attention was paid to Tianna, a prince of the ifland of Atooi, a chief of illuftrious birth and high rank, who, in the year 1787, was carried by me to China, and who now afforded us the pleafure of reftoring him to his country and his kindred, with a mind enlarged by the new fcenes and pidures of life which he had beheld, and in the pofleflion of various articles of ufeful application, or comparative magnificence, which would render him the richeft inhabitant of his native iflands» Mr. Cox, a commercial gentleman refident in China, was among thofc whom Tianna regarded with that warm efteem which repeated kindnefs never fails to excite in a grateful mind : and it would not be doing juftice to this amiable Indian, if he were not represented as poflefling many of thofe fentiments which do honour to the moft cultivated underftanding. Mr.Cox not only man ifefted a general intereft in the honour and happinefs of Tianna's future life, by the generous confignment of a confiderable quantity of live cattle and other animals to the ifland of Atooi, but, with the moft attentive humanity, defired even to indulge his unrefledling fancy. i ■ IIJli II lU 1^ l«l p'. Mi' ;: Ml ! '■ r'H;ia Hi a ■■.H< »,>> -^ ... . ■/>' • C'H-.'f .' rtn,Y II)'. r»i -Jt*.^i> ■ t ■ /: Jl i' /;.v.: t«, /ir.^,. (•• .-'f-- »t .-. -• - ~-y (/- y^: A;;, ,^ flv I: I 01.' • :i > '.^eft.iui^nuraber of cattle 1 i .,l-.'h on bonrd, "fof tlic ' ■ : >. .;. .• 'igbt add to i iuppiy the future navijja- if. v^-'fsh the neq-rlTaj-y refrcfh- It pi'ili. •- • ' tie. ifl»B: : rfeeti ac' . , i t«» Tiannn, ,i faf illviitiriouu imth «iili'.'iins; many o)' , but, wwn •^; )!i: ^\yl ('ll,- I'/'fi'i- S,t)/,/lv/." VOYAGES TO THE m \^' Janvary cliild on whom he doted, with all the added confequence which would accompany him, from the knowledge he had acquired, the wealth he pof- fefled,and the benefits he Hiould communicate to the place of his nativity, produced tliole tranfports which fenfible minds may conceive, but which language is unable to dcfcribe. . '< • , , To give a minute defcriptlon of his conduct, behaviour, and fenti- ments, on his arrival at Canton, might be confidered as an unavailing digrefiion, unworthy of that curiofity which it is the office of this vo- lume to gratify. — It may not, however, be improper to obferve, that he discovered a mind poflefled of thofe capacities which education might have nurtured into intellectual fuperiorlty, and endued with thole fenfi- bilities which forbid enlightened reafon from applying the name of favage to any human being, of any colour or country, who poflefll-s them. When he firft beheld the (hips at Wampoa, his adoniHiment pofleffed an aftivity which baffles dcfcription, and he emphatically called them the iflands of Britamee ; but when he had furveyed their internal arrange- ment, with all the various apparatus they contained, the immediate impreflions they occafioned on his mind were thofe of dejedion ; he hung his head in filence, and flied an involuntary tear, as it appeared, over what he conceived to be his own inferior nature. — But the fame fpirit which urged him to quit his native country, in order to return with knowledge that might inftruft, and arts that might improve it, foon aroufed him into an aftive and rational curiofity. — Indeed he very Ihortly manifefted no common degree of intelleiftual exertion, by difcri- minating, as occafion offered, between the people of the feveral Euro- pean nations, whom he daily faw, and thofe of England, whom he always called the men of BrUannee. — The natives of China he confidered with a degree of difguft which bordered on extreme averfion ;— their ^f • > bald ,^r-^ f*" >*„*- — — :, '^s-^ai^ — X':: NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. hsld heads, didended noftrih, and unmeaning features, had raifed in his 1788. mind the ftrongeft fenfations of contempt : — Indeed it might be owing to J*" "*»» the addition which the natural dignity of his perfon may be fuppofed to receive from fuch a prevailing fentiment, whenever he found him fdf amongft them, that the Chinefe appeared to regard him with awe, and thiit, wherever he turned, the timid crowd never failed to open to him a ready paflagei Tianna was about thirty* two years of age ; he was near fix feet five inches in ftature, and tlie mufcular form of his limbs was of an Herculean appearance. His carriage was replete with dignity, and having lived in the habits of receiving the refpedl due to fuperior rank in his own coun- try, he poflefled an air of diftindlion, which we will not fuppofe could fufFer any diminution from his obfervation of European manners. He wore the drefs of Europe with the habitual eafe of its inhabitants, and had not only learned the ufe and arrangement of its various articles but applied his knowledge to the uniform and moft minute pradlice of perfonal cleanlinefs and decorum. The natural habits of his mind, however, occafionally recurred, and the childifli fancy of his native ftate would fometimes intrude upon and interrupt the progrefs of his improvement. He could not be taught to underftand the value of our current coin, and when he wanted any thing that was to be purchafed by it, he would innocently afk for iron ; which being the moft valuable metal in his eyes, was naturally confidered by him as the medium of barter among other nations. To return Tianna to his native Ifland, operated very powerfully in forming the arrangements of the voyage before us ;-his original defign and inclination was to proceed to England ; and Captain Churchill, of the Walpolc Eaft Indlaman, offered,, in the kindeft manner, to take him. - under 1, ■ tl u ■w i .j. . ii jm" " ." !'!' . ''*' ■ '«■ I VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. under his pi-ote£lion, nor could he have found a better proteAor ; but January, to coiidgu him to another's care, and to fend him to a country from whence there might be no future opportunity of returning to his own, , was a bufuiefs that his friends could not reconcile to their feelings. The permitting him to leave Atooi, was confidcrcd as an unrcfle£l:ing a£l; ind it was now determined that Tianna (hould return thither, if not, in reality, nappier than bcfor«, at kaft poflefled of treafurcs beyond any poftible expccft.ition of his unexperienced mind. But of all the various rticlcs which formed his prefent wealth, his fancy was the mofl di. lighted with a portrait of himfelf, painted by Spoilum, the cele- brated artifl of China, and perhaps the only one in his line, throughout that extenfivc empire. The painter had, indeed, moft faithfully repre- fented the lineaments of liis countenance, but found the graceful figure of the cliicf beyond the powers of his genius. The furprifc that Tianna cxpreflcd, as the work proceeded, was various and extreme, and feemed to follow with continual change every added Aroke of the pencil. Wlien this painting was prefcnted to him, he received it with a degree of folcmnity that ftruck all who beheld it ; and then, in a ftatc of agitation in which he had never been feen by us, he mentioned the cataftrophe which deprived tlie world of Captain Cook. He now, for the firft time, informed us that a fierce war had been waged through- out the Iflands, on account of a painting, which he called a portrait of that great man, and which had been left with one of their moft potent chiefs. This piilure, he added, was held facred amongft them, and ' the refpe£l they paid to it was confidercd by them as the only retribu- tion they could make for their unfortunate deftrudion of its original. It may not perhaps, be thought Improper, if a fhort digreflion is made in this place, in order to ftate, that during our former ftay* * Some account of this voyage is given in the IntroduAion. amoI^g NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. among thefe idanders we had every opportunity of cftimatiug their feelings with refpe£l to the lamented fate of Captain Cook, and we have every reafon to believe that thefe diftant inhabitants of the watery wafte, accompanied with fincere forrow, the regret of Europe. The numbers of them which furrounded the fhip, with a view to obtain per- miiTion to go to Britanneet to the friends of their beloved Cook, are incredible. They wept and folicited with an ardour that conquered every previous avcrfion. Prcfents were poured in upon us from the chiefs, who were prevented by the multitude from approaching the veffel, and the clamorous cry of Britanntt^ Britannec, was for a long time vociferated from every part, and without ceafing : nor can their filent grief be defcribed, when it was made known among them, that Tianna, a prince of Atooi, was the only one feledted to the envied honour of failing with ui. 1788. jAMVAkY. Previous to our departure, Tahco, the king of that ifland, paid us a vifit, accompanied by all his chiefs. As they believed that the com- manders of every European (hip, who had touched at their iflands, flnce the death of Captain Cook, were the fons of that illuftrious navigator, they, in the moft afFe£ling manner, deplored that event ; and while each of them was folicitous to affert his own innocence, they united in reprefenting the paffions that had urged them to commit the fat;?l deed — which would be a fubjeft of their eternal contrition — as a punifh- ment inflided on them by their gods. After thefe, and many fimilar declarations, they renewed their offers of friendship to Br itannee, and departed ; nor have we the lead doubt but that future navigators, who may chance to ftop at thefe iflands, will find there a fecure and wel- come afylum. The other natives of the Sandwich Ifles and America, who were re- ceived on board, had been brought to China, by difFcrent (hips, rather . ^ as m 10 V O V AG E S TO THE 1788. as objeiSls of curiofity, than from the better motive of inftruftion to January. (j,g^^ or advantage to commerce: — they confifted of a woman of the ifland of Owyhee, named VVinee, who was in a bad and declining ftata of health ; a ftout man and boy from the ifland of Mowee, and a native of King George's Sound ; the barbarous nature of whofe inhabitants rendered it an ufelefs experiment to accompany him with any of thofe advantages provided for the others. On board of each fliip were embarked fix cows and three bulls, four bull and cow calves, a number of goats, turkies, and rabbits, with fe- veral pair of pigeons, and other ftock in great abundance. Unfortu- nately it was not in our power, at this time, to procure flieep; but fe- veral lime and orange-trees were purchafed and deftined for Atooi, as Taheo, the fovereign of that ifland, poflcfled all the power neceflary to proteft fuch valuable property. Had we been fo fortunate as to have landed all the cargo prepared for the Sandwich Iflands, they would have become the moft: eligible places for refrefliment in the whole extent of the Northern Pacific Ocean. If, however, the American commerce fliould be purfued, very confiderable advantages will be found to refult even from that part of our defign which was compleated. ninJayzi . O" ^he evening of the zid of January, both flilps weighed from the Typa to proceed to fea ; but it falling calm fliortly after, and the tide of flood fetting againft us, the fignal was made for anchoring, which was accordingly performed in the roads, in fix fathoms, over a muddy bottom. The Iphigenia being in a ftronger part of the tide, was driven farther up the roads, and anchored about two miles aftern of us. Wc here found riding, the Argyleftiire, a large country fliip, of between fix and feven hundred tons, bound to Bengal : — flie was after- wards unfortunately lofl: in her paflage from Bengal to China, and every foul on board fuppofed to have pcrilhed. •^ I NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. XI '■;(.?■ 1788. jANUAIir. sf CHAP. II. The IPHIGEHIA /prings ber Foremaji. — Pajfage to the Philippities.-^Sail along the Coaji of Luconia. — Pafs Goat IJland, the JJlei of Luban, IJland of Mindoro and the Calamines. — Scurvy breaks out on Board the Iphigeni A.— Pafs the IJland of Panay. — Mutinous Conduct of the Crew on board the Felice, &c. ... ABOUT nine o'clock in the evening, an air of wind fprung up Sundays. from the South Eaft, Avhich, though dire«3:ly againft us, deter- mined us to put to fea; and the (ignal was made to the Iphigenia to . weigh.— -By ten o'clock both (hips were under fail, the wind light and variable from the fouthward. — We continued {landing to the Grand La- drone until midnight, when it became extremely foggy, which occa- fioned us to (horten fail for the Iphigenia, which was confiderably aftern. The foundings were regular, from four to fix fathoms, over a muddy bottom. — We now loft fight of the Argylefhire, who alfo weighed and proceeded to the South Weft. , , ■,..■.'.'.*" The morning of the 23d was extremely foggy ; and in the night we had Monday 23 loft fight of the Iphigenia.— The wind now veered to the Eaft North Eaft, and began to freflien up; on which a fignal was made with two guns to the Iphigenia, to get the larboard tacks on board, and ftand to the South Eaft.--At noon the fog cleared away, when the Iphigenia was perceived about a league to leeward of us. — During the night we kept B 2 ^ firing \k m * iii » i 12 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. firing guns, and beating the gongs* ^ »" order that flie might judge of January. ^^^ fituation. By obfervation, our latitude was 20" 54' North, and longitude 114° 24' Eaft ; the South Weftorn part of the Prata (hoal bore in the direftion of South, 73"^ Eaft, diftant 40 leagues ; Cape Bolinou, South, 50° Eaft, diftant 419 miles. As it was our intention to make the coaft of Luconia well to wind- ward, we refolved to keep as much as poflible to the Eaftward, being apprehenfive of experiencing foutherly currents at this feafon of the year. — We preferred making the coaft of Luconia to that of Mindoro, or the Calamines, the coaft of the latter being furrounded with numerous ftioals, rocks, and fragments of iflets, which render the navigation ex- tremely dangerous, and require the greateft precaution in failing through * fuch an extenfive Archipelago. — The charts of thefe feas, by Mr. Dal- rymple, moft certainly poflefs a great degree of accuracy, but are, as we fuppofe, neccffarily formed on fuch a confined fcale, and marked with fuch extreme delicacy, as to leflen their intended utility for the common pur- pofes of navigation. — By adhering to this track we hoped to experience lefs boifterous weather, from being flieltcred, in fome meafure, by the coaft of Luconia, and at the fame time to fteer clear of many dangerous- (hoals, which lie at fome diftance from its coaft, and are, indeed, fcattered. throughout thefe feas. . _ WcineHiayij- The courfe was continued to the South Eaft, till the 25th ; the weather gloomy and unpleafant; the wind blowing fteadily from the Eaft North Eaft, and North Eaft by Eaft, with a very heavy fea. The latitude, at noon, was 18° North; the longitude 117° i' Eaft. The South • A China gong refemblcs, in fome degree, the form of a fieve; and is made of a mixture of metals. I'he China junks ufe tiiem as bells ; and, when they are flruck with a wooden mallet, produce a deep, fonorous nuifc. \ _- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 13 South Maroona (hoal bearing North 61" Eafti diftance 49 leagues ; Cape 1788. Bolinou 62° Eaft, diftant 67 leagues. . -. < January. The Iphigenia proved but an heavy failer, when compared with the Felice, fo that we were continually obliged to fhorten fail on her ac- count; an inconvenience which we determined to get rid of, by feparating company from her, and making the beft of our way, as foon as we had got clear of the Sooloo Sea. In the evening we fpoke with the Iphigenia, when Captain Douglas informed us that the (hip had fprung a leak In the late bad weather, above the copper, which obliged him to keep one pump going, but that he hoped to flop it the firft favourable moment. — This accident occafioned no inconfiderable degree of uneafinefs. — Circumftances of this kind have a very unpleafant tendency to difhearten feamen, who, with all their hardy courage, are very fubjeft to be influenced by fuperftitious omens of the moft trifling and ridiculous nature ; and which, if they (hould happen in the beginning of a voyage, will frequently operate upon their minds and condudl through the moft lengthened courfe of it. Our China crew were all extremely affeaed by fea-ficknefs, wliichwas a very difcouraging circumftance ; and the exceffive rolling and tumbling of the (hip, caufed the cattle to droop ; indeed, from the apparent impofilbility of preferving them all,durii)g fuch a long voyage,-- from the want of proper food, and as there were a greater quantity on board than were necefl'ary to (lock tlie iflands to which they were dcftined,--it was thought proper to kill them all but two cows and a ball, and one bull and one cow calf, who might, we hoped, become enured to tJie voyage, and be preferved to their deftination. Accordingly two of them were killed, ..i-^ ■'^~"*^-., ■■,...«-.^ 14 V O YAG E S TO THE 1788. killed, and frefh meat ferved to the crew, with barley, which made them January, comfortable mcfles. » r During the evening it blew very (Irong indeed, with an heavy fea. — We continued {landing to the South Eaft, in the hope of being able to weather the North Maroona (hoal ; the pofition of which, according to Mr. Dalrymple, is extremely doubtful ; — we therefore kept the beft look- out in our power. ' ' At five o'clock we were alarmed, by perceiving that the Iphigenia Ipread abroad the fignal of diftrefs, which denoted, at the fame time, that flie was not in want of immediate afliftance: we however inftantly bore up and fpoke to her ; when Captain Douglas informed us that his fore-maft was fo dangeroufly fprung, that fome method muft be immedi- ately taken to fecure it ; but the fea ran fo high, and it blew at the fame time fo ftrong, that we were prevented from affording any afliftance whatever; w.e fliortentJ fail, however, immediately; and l)efore night the Iphigenia had her fore-top-maft and top-gallant-maft on deck, and her forcmaft entirely ftripped. . - '- It was now abfolutely neceffary for us to keep under what pcflible fail we could ; and as the Iphigenia was able to keep abroad her main-topfail, main-fail, and mizen, to give thefe fails their proper efFeifl during the night, we kept two points from the wind, under an eafy fail, giving up all hopes of weathering the North Maroona, and being doubtful even of keeping our wind fufficient to weather the South Maroona, which is defcribed as extremely dangerous, and whofe fituation is as uncertain as that of the Northern- (hoal of the fame name. — It blew very hard during the night, with a heavy fea ; the Iphigenia appearing to labour ex- ceedingly. . This \ 1 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ■ This was, indeed, a very unfortunate event ; the weather we had to encounter was very much to be dreaded, and the crippkd ftate of the Iphigenia's maft greatly increafed our apprehenfions; as, in cafe it (hould meet with any further injury, there was no friendly port nearer to us than Batavia, where we (hould be able to replace it. Our fituation, driven as we were about thofe feas, and furrounded by dangerous (hoals, was truly dlftreffing and alarming. — It was impoflible for us to make the land, as we might be thrown into a fituation which would encreafe the danger of the Iphigenia ; and as to leaving her in fo diftreffed a con- dition, fuch a defign did not occur to us for a moment; befides, we were not without apprehenfions of being driven too far to the Southward, which would render it impoffible for us to get hold of the coaft of Luco- iiia, Mindoro or the Calamines, and under fuch circumftances, inAead of making the paflage of the Sooloo Sea, we fhould have been obliged to take our courfe through the Straits of Sunda, and reach the Northern Pacific Ocean by the Straits of Macaffer, of which, after all, we were rather doubtful ; or, by doubling the South Eaftern extremity of New Holland, if we fliould give up the paflage of the Endeavour's Straits— It is very eafy to conceive the uneafincfs we fuffered from the bare profpedt of fuch a circuitous navigation. »5 1788. Janua «,y. )' The weather did not moderate until the twenty-fixth at noon: the Thurfday »& latitude was then 17° 5' North, and the longitude 1 18° Eaft. The South Weftern end of the North Maroona bore in the direaioa of South Eaft, diftant thirty leagues. We kept ftanding towards it during the night under fuch fail as the Iphigenia could Ipread, and we very much wifhed to have fent a boat on bojird her : but, on a fudJeii, the weather became as tempeftuous as ever, fo that we could neither fend carpenters or plank to her afliftance.— A ftage had been ereded round her maft head, but a great hollow fca increafed our alarms for her fituation. This '»y awn — T~j| w i6 1788. JANUAnr. Friday »7 V O YAG E S T O T H E This day, another of the cattle was killed for the crew ; indeed, the exceflive tumbling and rolling of the fliips made us defpair of faving any of them ; twpof the fineft goats having already been crufhed by a fudden roll of itie (hip. — During the night it blew extremely hard, with a great hollow fca. — We kept fteering to the South Eaft, frequently bringing too for the Iphigenia, (he being under fuch fmall fail. This unfavourable weather continued till the 27th, at noon. The latitude was 16° 20' North, and longitude 119° 12' Eaft. The obfer- vation, however, was but of little dependence, from the variety of cur- rents which we experienced. The wind had veered to the Northward t and we hauled up Eaft South Eaft, proportioning our fail to that of the Iphigenia. It was, indeed, apprehended, that an Eafterly current had fet us to the Weftward, as our latitude was 16° ao' North, without feeing any thing of the flioal. As we could not fuppofe it poftible that we (hould be to the Eaftward of the Maroona, we were under the ne- cefiity of hauling to the Eaft, as much as the running of a very high fea would permit. In the evening we fpoke with Captain Douglas, who informed us that the head of his foremaft was entirely rotten, and that it was with great difficulty the carpenters could proceed in their attempts to fecure it from the high, rolling fea — Before night, however, we had the fatisfa^tion of feeing the Iphigenia's fore-top over head, and her lower rigging fet up ; fo that our fears of being driven fo the fouthward of Mindoro, in fome meafure, fubfided. It was, however, determined, that, from the great extent of feas we had to crofs, the riflt would be too great for the Iphigenia, in her prefent ftate, to attempt fuch a paffage without having her maft well fecured; or, • if ll 17* I lll HT lM ~> %■># .Ak SacKSciSE^SiSi ., V. M :*„ '*,U # Ml', Xiif^'iC^^* ; Vitw of Goat ItianJ. off thf (oust of' /.ii)Wiia.ti/^u- M,uii/l finv of ttit Coast of Luconta httwttn tht Luntuttta ofiS'. 40 North atut 14. ..->o .' m Conttiiuatton of t/ir tim.'t lit« of tAf h/f.t of /.iiia/i , nro,it M,ifni,ditfn ",4 JJf—mM. 7m/jj t/ ///f _ A///// f'/f /Af _ ^//^/////////f , /)/f/fff/j_ •* • *> i -Jl off tAf (iuist of' /.utvma.nrtu- MimMi,,/i.'ta/u-e o^' Short 3 iMpuAt . wssmskm wm f /.natutff-f t>fl6'. 40 AvrrA and 14 ..'>o NorlA^ ituttuuv off' Shore /'ivt iratfurs . mk mm^ IB8*f - C«mtiuiafto» of' l/ir Const 1*.. KiMMMWaiMMMrii 'If.' of' /.uian , ntar Coat /.iAinf/' SAorr / le4iffues '% ^'^///////r^/)/f///f/,/_/f> ///r '>/fu//////7//r/f>/, //r//////f/ */. Jtmderj JtyiMt * //■■ t ■A i I t ' ' il/K JMmrudtl . -mti/a, liuta/tce t>/f SAorr 3 LtMfuns . So ^ortK,Jutance off' Shore Iii-t Ztatfu^s 1^^ Bl£Bp%« ^-■Wi*'"*^ ^^ ^^^J^ ^^INi '^SM^HIBH^Iil ^^^ fojtfe off' SAorr 4 Le4tffues . / //^ /"///' (jArf/m//'r//f/f>/> //////////i J. Stmdtrj Jifitat * /t€ ' '.V • Thrt .-'• Md, 1.- 1 V v«. . ic* j§.h the ft r»0 a w hie 1 . rrcntf vv'ntch wr cxjK'i. :;.;. .. ... tj t -/?-^> North E^ft Moutoon, tt ^ ' !y ciiit"r«»).r fit* air""; rh¥ 1 ■■•w' |-fe«,.gfits| :fci*w*ip - i I ■■^'^- •' ■^. ..:^''-'-^%. •v ■ i 'I M ■ t A : i 4i--r -•••■ .mfU- ■»fc' •■'-«WJ(M»'*LJ9-a'< -;»4" I .. «.<^. - ii imh f i' ^% ^' . f it mthv m ' r i't^C, I :«*ir'Jihsl«w»-JWfr>-v '''!&« "A*** o/l^ S4*fr j J- ■ * '. W- V, ■<*■'• V ■»••■■ ' r - '■-■■'', X'^ "••♦.i .'• ' . .', ^^«Va«^iRk_ f •■ ' **"■'•■■.■ .^■4^^■^»~>i^^m r <. J.^andtrj dbftuu* ft<' •Vr^p^M^.'^Mfi^^^ " ■- i_.:Jii»-< NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. if condemned, to be replaced by another.— It was therefore refolved to call a furvey of the carpenters on it, the (irft favourable moment ; and it was abfolutcly ntceflary to fix immediately on fbme place where the repairs that ftiould be found requifite could be accomplifhcd. The Spanifh fcttlement of Samboingan, on the Southern extremity of Magindanao was con(idcred as the beft place for our purpofe; and though we had fcarcely ever heard of it, and the hofpitality of the Spaniards was always to be doubted, our neceflity obliged us to fuch a determination, rather than proceed to Batavia, or encounter the coaft of New Holland. »7 1788. This evening, we pafled great quantities of rock-weed and drifc>wood, which made us apprehentive of falling in with the flioals. In the morning, the ifland of Luconia was difcerned from the mafi< Sauirdijr ii. head, bearing from Eafl North EsiCi, to Ead South Ead, didant i z or 14 leagues, and bore an high and mountainous appearance. As we clofed in with the land, the weather becimc moderate and fine, and the fea entirely fubfided. The Iphigenia had got up her fore top- mart. At noon the obferved latitude was 16° 16' North; fo that, during the laft twenty-four hoUrs, we had experienced a ftrong Northerly current. H. Nothing can more ftrongly prove the danger of navigating tlie China feas, than the variety of contrary currents which we experienced in lb (hortatime: — During the greater part of the North Baft Monfoon, it has been generally obferved, that a Northerly current fets along the coaft of Luconia, as far as Cape Bolinou : there the great body of water rufhing through the ftraits which form the paffage between Formofa, this Ifland, and the Babuyanes, checks this current, and turns it into the China Sea, where it receives a Southerly direftion, at the diftance of 15 or 20 leagues from the coaft of Luconia. C The I I, ). 1788. Janvarv. VOYAGESTOTHR The currents, at all periods of the North Eaft Monfoon, run ftrongly to the Southward iii thofe feas, excepting near Luconia ; but the ftreams of them acquire greater force at the diftance of 30 or 40 leagues from the fliores of this ifland, than they do off the coaft of China : this circum- ftance may be occafioned by the jun£lion of the waters paffing through the flraits of Luconia, and thofe between China and Formofa. Ships bound for China, which. are late in the feafon, might avail themfelves of thcfe currents to reach Cape Bolinou, when an eafy and pretty fecure paflage is open to Canton. Indeed, bordering on the coaft of Luconia may be attended with great advantages ; for, independent of this Northerly current, fine weather is generally experienced. At times, variable winds ; —in the very height of the North Eaft Monfoon, it has fometimes been known to blow a fmart gale from the South Weft. As our apprehenfions had continued to increafe of being drifted to the fouthward, the fatisfadion we felt at thus getting in with the land may be eafily conceived. Towards the evening of this day it fell calm; but, about nine o'clock, a frefli breeze fprungup from the South Weft, which made us ftand on our tacks, for the night, on and ofF fhore ; where we faw feveral fires, which remained burning during the greater part of the night. Our diftance was between fix and feven leagues. Sunday 19. In thc moming, the land bore from North North Eaft, to South South Eaft, our diftance being about fix leagues:— it appeared very mountainous, and was covered with wood, except in fome detached places, on the declivity of the mou itains. Vaft columns of fmoke afcended from the interior heights, which denoted population. The latitude at noon was 15° 52' North. During the evening and the night, we L . r' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. t9 we continued {landing to the laad, but could find no foundings with an 1788. hundred and fifty fathoms of line. • January. ■ The land extended from North by Eaft, to North Eaft by Eaft, diftant Monday 30 about fix leagues; at which diftance we kept fleering along the fliore to the Southward and Eaftward ; the latitude was 15° 19' North, by ob- fervation. The weather was extremely moderate, and pleafant under the land, the fea remarkably fmooth,and a continuation of high, moun- tainous country, covered with wood, prefented itfelf to our view. At night, it blew a frelh breeze from the Weftward ; and we flood to the South by Eait, to make Goat Iflaiid, keeping a good look out for fome flioals that are faid to lie to the Northward of the ifland. In the morning, about eight o'clock. Goat Ifland was feen, bearing Tuefdayjt North Eaft by North, about the diftance of fix leagues; the coaft of Lucoiiia bearing, at this time, from North by Weft to South Eaft, at the diftance of 14 leagues. From an obfervation made at noon, the latitude was if 45' North.' . Goat Ifland appeared of a moderate height, and to be well wooded but without any fign of inhabitants. The Luban Iflands were perfeft mountains covered with woods : — The Spanifh charts, indeed, reprefent the Lubans as conne£led by (hoals with Goat Ifland ; but we could not perceive any broken water, or procure foundings with onj hundred and fifty fathoms of line. We took the opporfmity of the favourable weather we now enjoyed to put the fhipsin 3 f-" of defence. The guns were accordingly mounted, a fufficient qua'itity of powder and ammunition was filled, C2 and i' 0;.j, -7 so VOYAGES TO THE 1788. January, ll^ I and every other neceflary preparation made, as thofe feas are infefled with numerous bands of pirates. Two very fine (hips had lately been taken by them. One of them was the May, of 300 tons, and mounting twenty guns, and had been on a trading voyage from Bengal to the.coaft of Borneo. G,:ncral intelligence was received from the Malays of her being deftroyed, but not a fingle perfon efcaped to relate the particulars. Several other fhips have very narrowly efcaped deftrudion '■ indeed, fcarce a year pafles away, but fome cataftrophe of this kind happens. The proas from Magindanao and Sooloo iflue forth in fuch fwarms, that it becomes dangerous for a weak fliip to fail thofe feas. Thefc proas arc manned with an hundred, and fometlmes an hundred and fifty men, well armed, and generally mounting pieces of cannon of fix or twelve pounders. As foon as a fhip is captured by them, a carnage enfues, — and the unhappy few wliofurvive it are carried into irredeemable flavcry. Thel'e people cruife in fleets of thirty or forty of thefe proas ;. nay, fome- timcs an hundred of tliem have been perceived in company ; and though we did not very much apprehend that they would venture to attack two fliips, it would have been an unpardonable negligence if we had not pre- pared ourfelves for whatever might happen. We availed ourfelves alfo oftheprefcnt favourable opportunity to furvey tlie mails of the Iphi- genia, and deliver her fuch flores and other articles as we knew that fhe wanted, to put her in a refpedable flate of defence. We therefore fent on board her two additional piects of cannon with a requlfite proportion of powder, ball, and other ammunition ; and in return received a quan- tity of coals for the forges, and feveral other neceffary articles. Additional reafons continually nrofe why the fhips ihguld feparate on the firft opportunity after we had cleared thefe dangerous feas. But, if even there had been no other, the P'elice, by keeping company with the Iphigcnia, who was at bcfl inferior in point of failing, would have been very NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 21 very much impeded in her voyage ; and it was become neceffary to make 1788. every poflible exertion to fave our feafon on the coaft of America. angary. In the evening the carpenters returned from thelphigtnia, and reported the mart to be, in every refpefl, unequal to the voyage ; they even doubted whether it would carry her to Samboingan. The head was quite rotten and fupported by the cheeks : good fifhes, however, were put on and fee u rely v.ooldcd. At funfct the ifland of Mindoro was feen bearing South Eaft by Eaft, dlftant 10 leagues. The wind blew very ftrong from the Eaflr, and it came down in violent puffs from the high mountains of Luban : during the night a prefs of fall was carried to reach under the fliore of Mindoro. The wind blew invariably from the Eaft, fo that we became apprehen- five of being entangled with the iflands called the Calamines, which are not only il 11 lU :.« ^' fj " \ it i a6 1788. VOYAGES TO THE ment. Indeed I ain (irmly of opinion, that many a failor, with ail the hardy training of a fea life, and all the infenfibility attributed to a fea^* man's charadter, would be deterred from an improper condu£t, by the apprehenfion of having it regiftered in the records of the (hip, when the temporary pain of corporal punifhmcnt would be confidercd with con- tempt. Indeed I cannot but lament the incflRcacy of the marine laws^ to reftraiiv the unlawful behaviour of failors on board merchant (hips. It is a real difgrace to the (irft maritime and conunercial nation in the world, to have been fo long without an e(labli(hed fyftem of regulations to pre- ferve the obedience of feamen in the trade fervice, as well as that in the navy. How many (hips have been loft, from the licentious, ungovern- able conduct of their crews ! and how many voyages rendered unpro- (itable from the fame caufe. Neverthelefs, it does not appear that any efforts have been made to prevent fuch a manrfeft inconvenience to the . commerce of our country. Other nations have included merchant (hips in the general laws enaded for maritimaiWbordination ; and it is of real confequence to this country to follow fuch a falutary example, and to form a code of regulations that miy operate to keep in a due ftate of difcipline a clafs of men who are fo necefTary to the commerce, the flrength, and the glory of the Britifh empire. i CHAP. n '* i: nk 'if It '^il f ik ,1 ^\ \ ■ a jf- ! . .11 .»**«>" '/I ////I \,!/n ,>/y '//'//// /Y ('/If o/' tin- Siin,Ay/i/'//'/ilili/.t. /■■iNi/l./Aii./'.it' /;,i,:h.'.W,t/tn:X"il'^M.;„,/,//:,. ^ahatr- ^i .4. \%i \U It. '•("• 'I »fr'; ^fiW . ;'■ "r , wiHort'w'.ite .ii.. .Ml "rf agiAia j'cc ; . ■ ;^ ■ ■ •. , . d mi- -■■■ '■■:•■■ . ]■ iwws •,'^fe)h Witfkh rtjjKi.!. wide !•■ \i ,H' If « '^ > 111 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 ^^ Ui ■tt ilii 12.2 1.1 Ml U M I^IU^I^ i^ ^ V Biotographic Sdmces Corporation •N? ^x^ 73 van MAM STRHT ¥VIUTM,N.Y. l4SaO (716)172-4503 4^ i\ Jl .. l^^T #t.4*ai^*IUl. . ' I«*AjS. rrt- i^ ^i m4 n^ ' I ,1 i f| 51.;. r ij.-' ''>^ ^iSf ;«•(! ''■' l^'ifUP"'' »'f|firfc...l (■.«•.*•■»? '/'"^'J • ♦ .ra,t,.Tk>'t^JS!itjr>/» ,<-**■ -'J m ■^(( >^y>> (tJ-jTll ..... ^ ■<* 1 •■ » • -*-^ ^i,>mr^ -•••■— ..^. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 27 i;88. CHAP. III. Sickntfs of the Sandwich JJlanders. — Death ofJVmee ; her Chara£lei\ ^c. — DeJlrtdSiion of Cattle. — IJlands ofBafilan and Magitidanao. — The Ships anchor off the /alter. — The Carpenters and Party fen t on Shore to cut a Majl, &c. — Lofs of a China Man. — Spaniards fent on board to compliment the Ships. ■—Both Ships moor off Fort Caldera. — Behaviour of the Spanifli Gover- ^c. ■ wcr OUR friends of Owyhee had fufFercd extremely during the pafliige TMirfJay4 acrofs the China feas. Tianna, in hisconftant attendance upon Wi- nce, had caught a fever, which, with the humr^ie anxiety he felt on her account, confined him for fome time to his bed. The man from Nootka- Sound, however, poirefling a very robufl conftitution, bore the inconve- niencies of the voyage with little complaint; but the poor, unfortunate woman juftified our fears concerning her, that (he would ntvcr again fee her friends or native land. She every day declined in ftrength, and nothing remained for us, but to eafe the pains of her approaching dif- folution, which no human power could prevent. Nor did we fiil, I be- lieve, in any attention that humanity could fuggeft, or that it was in our power to beflow. She had been fur fome time a living fpc£lre, and on the morning of the fifth of February (he expired. At noon her body was committed to the deep ; nor was it thought an unbecoming a£t to grace her remains with the formalities of that religion which opens wide its arms to the whole human race, of every colour, and under every clime, to the favage as well as to the faint and the fage. Tianna was fo much af- D 2 feftcd i i"^ ,} m MXUH ri M ■/I .J 1^ 1 v^kSI % \M aS VOYAGES TO THE 1788. fe£led by the circumftance of her death, that we were for fome time FittvART. ^r,j„,. ygry painful apprehenfions left his health might fuffer from the feelings of his humanity 011 this occaHon ; as he pofleffed, in a very great degree, that delicacy of conftitution which difcriminates the chiefs from the vulgar people, and is peculiar to the great men of hi» country. .... Thus ditd Winee, a native of Owyhee, one of the Sandwich Iflands, who poflefled virtues that are fetdom to be found in tlje clafs of her coun- trywomen to which (he belonged ; and a portion of undcrftanding that was not to be expeded in a rude and uncultivated mind. It may not, perhaps, be uninterefting to mention the caufe of this poor girl's de- parture from her friends and country, which it was her fate never to behold again. Captain Barclay, who commanded the Imperial Eagle, was one of thofe adventurers to the coaft of America, who made a very fuc- cefsful voyage. Mrs. Barclay accompanied her hulband, and (hared with him in the toils, the hardfhips, and viciffitudes incident to fuch long, as well as perilous voyages ; but by no means calculated for the frame, the temper, or the education of the fofter fex. This lady was fo pleafed with the amiable manners of poor Winee, that (he felt a defire to take her to Europe ; and for that purpofe took her, with the confent of her friends, under her own particular care and protedtion. On Mrs. Bar- clay's departure from China for Europe, Winee was left, as we have already mentioned, in a deep decline, to embark for her country, with the reft of the natives of the Sandwicli Iflands. On the nr.orning of her death, ftie prefented Tianna, as a token of her gratitude for his kind attentions to her, with a plate looking-glafs, and ^i*^vfii^ "•CSS^* ••■4.. •-■' . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »9 and a bafon and bottle of the fineft. China: to thefe gifts (he alfo added 1788. a gown, an hoop, a petticoat, and a cap for his wife ; the reft of hrr property, confifting of a great variety of articles, (he bequeathed to her family ; and they were depofited with Tianna, to be delivered to her father and mother. « Nor let faftidious pride c.ift a fmilc of contempt on the trifles that com- poled her little trcafure. They were wealth to her, and would have given her a very flattering iinpo:tancc, had flic lived to have taken them to her native ifland. But when we confider the fuffcrings of her mind, on the reflexion that flie fliould never behold her country again ;— when we fse, as it were, the dilappointment of an inofFenfivc pride preying on her fpirits ; — when to thefe caufes of dcjedlion are added the pains of incurable difeafc, increafed by the tofliiig of the billows, and the violence of tempeftuous fcas, — humanity muft feel for thofe mife- ries which haunt every corner of the earth, — and yield a compaflionate tear to the unfortunate Winee ! The bad weather had, at this time, greatly reduced our ftock of cattle, — there now remained of our original number, but one bull, one cow, and one cow-calf ;— all the goats, except two, had periflicd. At funfet, on the fifth, we had almoft loft fight of Panay ; Point de Nafib, the fouthern extremity, then bore Eaft North Eaft, diftant (evei\ leagues. The weather was extremely hazy, with the wind from the North Eaft ; and we kept fteering during the night to the fouthward and eaftward, under an eafy fail, for the fouthern extremity of the idand of Magindanao, which we defcried on the morning of the 6th of February, at day-break, bearing Eaft, fcven or eight leagues diftant : it appeared high, and very mountainous. At noon, the latitude was Saturday 6 fll \ ' ^Mm M m'*' Vi V J M 'm ml jal \mM \ i 'f I I -p -VOYAGES TO THE 1788. was 7' 22' North, and our diftance from the land three leagues. The Febrwart. mountains jutted abruptly into the fea ; and from their fummits to the water's edge, were covered with wood. We were continually founding, but could find no bottom with an hundred fathoms of line. It now became a matter for our choice, either to fleer direftly to Sooloo, or to the Spanish fcttknicnt of ^\^mboingan ; the latter, however, was preferred, it being thoii!;lit by no means prudent to run fo far to leeward as the former. DjIIJus, as it was, the continual North Eaft winds made us apprchenfivc, tliat we (h(Hild find it rather a difficult matter to weather Jclolo, or even New Guinea ; it was tlierefore deter- mined to keep the fliore of Magindanao clofe on board, and truft to chance to fupply our wants : we continued running down the ifland till fun- fet, the fhores being bold, and no danger to be apprehended, as we could procure no ground. The Weftern extremity bore South South Eaft five leagues ; and as we thought it rather hazardous to run during the night, the (Ignal was therefore made to heave too till morning ; when we refumed our courfe, at about the diftance of a mile from the Sunday 7 (hofe. lii the night we had experienced a Northerly current. At noon, the ifland of Bafilan was feen, bearing South South Weft nine leagues. Our latitude was 7° 8' North. It had a very fingular ap- pearance, from a great number of hills of a conical form ; one of whicli terminated its Eaftern extremity, and refembled, in fliapc, the cap of a Chinefe Mandarin. It was a very confpicuous objcdV, being the highcft of this curious groupe of hills. This ifland lies near Eaft and Weft ; and feveral other iflands, but of much lefs extent, appear off its Wefteru point. 1 ■> V I: u About ^: NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3« About three in the afternoon, we opened the channel that feparates 1788. Bafilan from Magindanao. At half part three, the Southern extremity of ***"**'^* Magindanao was doubled ; and we entered this channel, which appeared to be of confiderable breadth, with fcvenil Imall iflands in the midft of it. Our foundings were from twenty-five to thirty fathoms, over a rocky bottom. The South end of Magindanao we eftimate to lie in the latitu le of 6° 56' North ; the fhore was every where covered with wood, down to the Tea. At half part four we were moft agreeably furprifed at feeing a fmall ftone fort feated on the Magindanao Ihore, contiguous to a ftream of run- ning water, and about two miles from the South point. At the fame time a large village was feen more to the Eaftward. The enfign was immediately hoifted, which very foon occafioned the Spanifh colours to be difplayed from the Fort, and we were now' no longer in doubt that the place was Samboingan. It was a fquare building, with ceiitry boxes at each angle, covered with thatch, and the ramparts feemcd to be crouded with Malayans ; but on the whole it had the appearance but of a very indifFerent fortification; M \\Y » ! The tide of ebb now came ftrongly ngaiiirt us, and the fignal was made for anchoring, which was accordingly done in eleven fathoms, over a muddy bottom, at the diftance of about two miles from the fort, and within a quarter of a mile from the fhore, which appeared to be covered with an impenetrable wood. The boats were immediately hoifted out, and the carpenters lent to examine the nature of the woods. We now obfervcd with our glafles the Spanifh colours flying on another fortification adjoining to the village, and before which two gallies were riding at anchor. About five o'clock, a fmall > I ^1 mm i I'^^i ly I:. ^ V 3* 1788. FlBKVARY. VOYAGES TO THE a fmall boat came along-fide us, with a white flag flying in her bow ; — flic w:is rowed by four Malayans, and had on board three Spanifh Padres or Priefts. At firft they appeared to be extremely apprehenfive that our arrival foreboded fome kind of hoftility ; but being aiTurcd that our intentions were peaceable and friendly, they accepted our invitation to come on board, and having taken fome refrcfliment, they returned to the village ; after having cautioned us not to permit any of our people to ftraggle into the woods, which were infeftcd with Malayans, who would be upon the watch to make every kind of depredation upon us. Fn confequcnce of this very kind and important information, orders were immediately difpatched to the Iphigenia, who had anchored about a mile from us, to withdraw her people from the fliore. t « II The carpenter returned about fix o'clock, and made a report that every kind of timber we wanted, might be procured. Monday t In the momlug an officer, with a ftrong party, was difpatched with the carpenters to cut down fome fpars for top-fiiil yards, and fteerijig fail-booms for the Felice ; and orders were ifl'ued to the Iphigenia to f.nd a fimilar party to cut a fore-maft ; in the mean time, the pinnace was employed in founding and furvcying the channel, which was found to contain great over-falls, from five to ten, and thirty fathoms, at a caft, with a very rocky ground. About noon the carpenters returned on board, having procured a top- fail yard and the booms. They had alfo felled a fore-maft for the Iphigenia. The officer informed us of the lofs of a China-man, who was fuppofed to have ftrayed into the woods, and to have been feized by the Malayans. A numerous band of thefe favages, well armed after their fafliion, hovered about the place where the carpenters were NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 33 were nt work, and as wc could not procure any intelligence of this poor 1 788, unfortunate man, there is but too much reafon to believe that he fell ''^•*''**'^ hito the hands of the natives. At one o'clock a large boat arrived from the governor, who refidcd at the village, to compliment us on our arrival, and to invite us to an entertainment which his hofpitality had prepared. The officer who was employed to bring this polite invitation, confirmed the ac- count of the pricfls refpedling the perfidious character of the natives of the ifland ; and recommended, in the ftrongeft terms, that we (hould ufe every poflible precaution when we fent any parties on fhore. He alfo informed us that we might procure any neceffary timber with more eafe and fafety in the neighbourhood of the village, which poflcffed another advantage that might be of great ufe to us,— the being walhed by a rivulet of very fine water. He alfo added, on the part of the governor, that he fliould be happy to give us every afliftance in his power. It was, therefore, immediately refolved that the (hips fhould moor nearer to the village ; accordingly at two o'clock the tide making in our flavour, both fliips weighed and anchored abreaft of a large (lone fort, called Fort Caldera, whofe baftions were within an hundred yards of the fea. V f 'Ml The fort was fainted with nine guns, which compliment was imme- diately returned. The body of the village bore North by Eail half Eaft, di(tant about a quarter of a mile ; the extremities of Magindanao from Eaft North Eaft, to North North Weft ; and the Ifland of Bafilan from South Eaft by Eaft, to South Weft by Weft, diftant about twelve leagues. E CHAP. ''V'n ■» n' 1788. FcikUARr VOYAGES TO THE C II A P. IV. i\ Tuefday 9 Ow Reception at Siimbo'ingan. — Frit'tuHy Behaviour of the Governor^ tSc— 'the SpaniJ}} Gallies cover our Partiti while cutting a Majl. — Sicbiefs of 'tianna. — Goes on Board the Ipiiigeni A. — C<;///t', t£c. received on Bnard.-^ The Governor vifils the Ships ^ i£c. — The Telich prepares to put to Sea.-^ Lofes an uinc/jor and departs for America. — Some Account of Magindanao^ its Trade, Religion, Inhabitants, and Productions. — jijfrononiical Obferva- tions. Anchorage, &c. — The Village of Samboingan. — Span iff} Force and Power. — Riches obtained by the Governor of Samboingan. — Defcription of a Ball given by him, and the Manners of the People. — Nautica/ Obfervations on the Pajfage between the China Seas and the Northern Pacifc Ocean. — Danger rf navigating the China Seas. — Account of the fcveral Pajfagcs be- tween the two Oceans, with Directions, lie. — Pajfage bctivcen Formofa and the Philippines. — Bajl:ee IJles ; — Defcription of them. THE Governor of Samboliignn, who was a captain in a regiment of infantry at Manilla, received us with the greatcfl: politcncfs, af- fured us of every affiftance in his pnwcr, and fupplicd us, without licfi- tation, with whatever refrcfhmcnts theifland afforded. — He was attended by three priefts, two of whom were young men, but the third was rather of an advanced age, and had refiJed oa that iiland during an uninterrupted courfe of thirty years. • We were condu£led into the fort, which appeared to be in a very ruinous flate, and were regaled, after the Spani(h faihion, with fweetmeats and NORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA. 35 and cordials: — a very handfome repaft tlicn fuccctdtd, to which the 1788. major of the country militia, and other officers were invited. Some of tliefe gentlemen were natives of Manilla, and others of MagiiKlanao, whole complexions were (6 dark as to approach very nearly to the hlackiufs of the African. The pricfts enjoyed, as well as enlivened, the hoCpitilitfcs of the day, and did not appear to be of opinion that they were thrown into that corner of the globe to pafi their time in penitence and prayer. The rivulet that flowed through tlic village, after wafhing the walls oftliefort, emptied itfelf into the fea, at no great diftance from our ' mooring, which afforded us a very convenient opportunity of weltering: we accordingly embraced the occafion to replace what we had expended of fuch an import.iut article. On the loth, the governor was To very oblij^ing as to permit the two WeJiufJuyi* gallies, completely armed, to accompany the boats of both the (hips, that were employed to convoy the carpenters on fliorc, to cut another fore-maft for the Iphigcnia in the woods, the firft having been found defedlive, about a league from the fort. About noon they got under fail, and proceeded with the boats, which were alfo well manned and armed. We had been aflured that large parties of Malays were always on the watch, cither to commit depredations on the people, or to carry off" any unguarded ftraggler into flavery, from whence they fcldom or ever cfcapcd. We were there- fore determined to be in fuch a ftatc of preparation as to fccure the ohjea of our little expedition from being materially interrupted by them. About nine the parties returned with a very fine ftick, without having feen the face of an enemy.— In the mean time the other operations were proceed- u»g, and every preparation making for the continuance of our voyage. 1 A ■ V f ' '■'■( .1. # h nJlJ t\ T * 4i E2 • :'t At i' -. Ji 36 1788. I' K II K. I \ I) V . VOYAOES TO THE At this place, however, it was refolved that we fliould feparate. The Iphigcnia could not have been ready for fea at leaft for feme days ; and cvc-n that period had become an obje^ of Ibme importance, from the prefcnt advanced ftate of the year. The Felice was provided with every tiling (he could want, and we therefore prepared to leave Samboingati without any farther delay. t ii M ) Tianna and Comekala, the man from King George's Sound, were, fince the death of Winee, the only pcrfons of their refpcfVive countries on board the Felice ; the red of them were on board the Iphigenia, to which we now condgned the amiable chief of Atooi, as her courfe com- prehended his native iflands.— Comekala remained with us, as the dcAi- nation of our voyage was to his own country. Tianna had been fo fenfibly afFeded by the death of Wince, as to pro- duce a confiderable alteration in the ftate of his health : — his fever con- tinued, and baffled all our attentions to relieve him. The fame fate that had feparated for ever his unfortunate countrywoman from her friends and native land, prcflld home upon his reflecflion. — He may be fuppofed to have felt, and Ibmetimes, perhaps, expeftod that he might hear no more the tender names of father or of huft)and ; — that he might fhare with Wince a premature grave in the bofom of the ocean. — He was therefore configned to the care of Captain Douglas, with the hopes that the remaining on ftiore till his departure, with the novelty of the fcenes around him, might abate his diforder, .nnd recruit his fpirits with a fuf- ficient degree of ftrength to bear out the remainder of the voyage. On the evening of this day, we received on board four fine buffaloes, with grafs and plantain trees for them and our other cattle : — to thefe were alfo added a quantity of rice, vegetables, and fruit, with feveral * very NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. very fine hogs ; and it was our dcfign to put to fca without delay : but the wind fpringing up from the South Eaft, and the weather appearing very gloomy and unfcttkd, our departure was deferred to the fol- lowing day. As we had now an opportunity to make the governor fome acknow- ledgment for his very friendly attentions, an officer was difpatclicd with a meflage of thanks for his kindncfs to us, accomp.inied with an invita- tion to partake of a rcpaft the next day on board the fhips, which he very readily accepted. In return for which compliment, he requcfted our prcfence at a ball that evening ; fome account of which will be given when I come to mention the ftate, &c. of tlic ifland, and its inhabitants. 37 1788. Ftt«UAKT. At the time appointed, the governor made us the promifed vifit, at- Tlmrfdayu tended by the three padres, and the major of militia ; and wc exerted ourfelves to theutmoft in our entertainment, to manifefl a proper fenfibi- litytothe friendftiip he had (hewn us. The prieds enjoyed themfclvcson board the (hip as they had done on (hore ; and joined in one common fentimcnt, that nothing tends fo much as wine and good cheer to anni- hilate the force of religious diftindions. — The governor and his fuiie left us with the mod cordial expre(nons of fatisfaiflioa at our reception of them. l\ At four o'clock, the tide making in our favour, with a fre(h breeze from the northward, wc hove (hort ; but had the misfortune to find that our anchor had hooked a rock ; nor could our utmoft endeavours difentangle it from its hold, and heaving rather a ftrain, the cable gave way, and we irreparably loft it. The (hip was immediately got under fail, aiid pa(ring clofe to the Iphigenia, (he gave us three cheers, whicli we \ immediately ll'" h'h |S VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. immediately returned. She had her old fore- maft out, and her carpen- kekrbarv. fgrg „.pre bufily employed in preparing the new one on (hore. The very flioit time \vc remained at Samboingan did not give us a fufficient opportunity to acquire any other knowledge of this fettlemcnt tlian fuch as we received from the general information of others. But as this place is fo much out of tlic way of (hipping and commerce, I fhall' not hefitate to repeat the account I received from the communications of the old padre, whofc authority may, after all, be confidered as of fume reliance, from his very long and continual reudcncc on this idand. Magindanao i,> an ifland of confiderable extent, being about 120 miles in breadth, and 160 in length, and is bkflld with a fertile, luxuriant foil. — The intciior parts contain fevcral chains of lofty mountains, between which are extenfive plains, where vafl: herds of cattle roam at large in the moll delicious paftures. Several deep vallics alfo interfeft, as it were, certain parts of the country, through which, during the rainy feafons, vaft torrents pour from the mountains, and force their impetuous way to the fea. The rains and vapours which lodge in the plains diffufe thcm- felves into meandering rivulets, and coUefling a variety of fmall ftreams in their courfe, approach the fca in the form of confiderable rivers. About the middle of the ifland there are feveral lakes of no fmall extent, of which, however, we received no otlier particulars than that their borders are inhabited by tribes of favage natives, who live in a great meafure by plundering thofe who dwell nearer to the fea. Thefe people confider themfelves as free and independent of the fovereign of Magindanao, are of a fierce, implacable nature, and wage continual war with the Mahometans, who compofe the principal inhabitants of the ifland. NORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA. 3^ ifland. They are called Hilloonas, and profefs no kind of religion, but 1788. live in a ftate of profound ignorance and barbarifm. The fovereign of Magindanao is a powerful prince, and has feveral in- ferior chiefs who acknowledge him as their head. Neverthelefs there are others of them who refufe fubmilfion to him, and are confequently in a continual ftate of war ; lb that peace, at leaft, does not appear to be one of the bleflings of this ifland. The Spaniards, indeed, aflert their right to the entire dominion of Magindanao, but it is mere aflertion ; for though they have thefe forts, &c. on the ifland, it is by no means in a ftate of fubjeftion to their nation. The city of Magindanao is fituated on the South Eaft fide of the ifland, has a river capable of admitting fmall veffeU, and carries on a confiderable trade with Manilla, Sooloo, Borneo, and the Moluccas. Their export-s are rice, tobacco, bees-wax and fpices ; in return for which they receive coarfe cloths of Coromandel, China-ware and opium. This city ufed formerly to be vifited by European veflTels of fmall burthen ; but it was a confiderable time fince any of them had been there. The governor informed us, that the Iphigenia and the Felice were the only European fliips tliat had been feen in thefe feas during a courfe of feveral years. The Mahometan religion is profefled throughout the ifland, except by the Hilloonas, who, as we have already obferved, are governed by no religious principles,— praftife no form of worfliip,— and live in a ftate of lavage freedom. . ' Thefe 1 i ■; 40 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 1 788. Thefe people are called by the Spaniards, Negres Jel Monte, or Negroes FrsRUARY. Q£f]jg Mountain, on account of their rcfemblance to the race of Africa, both in their perfons and manners. They arc fuppofcd to be the original lords of Magindanao, and, indeed, of all the Philippines ; the Iflade Ne- gros, or Iflc of Negroes, is, in particular, entirely peopled by them, where they are at conftant enmity with the Spaniards. The Mahometan na- tives of the ifland are a robuft people, of a deep copper colour, and are efteemed intelligent merchants. If the Hilloonas are believed to have been the original inhabitants of Magindanao, it is very reafonable to fuppofe that they fled to the moun- tains to prcferve their liberty, when they were invaded by the Maho- metan hofts, which fpread like locufts, during the thirteenth and foui'- teenth centuries, over the eaftern archipelago. Their favage ignorance and barbarous difpofitions feem to have become fo habitual, as to leave them without the leafl defire, or, perhaps, without even the leaft idea of any fuperior degree of intellecflual nature. The miflionaries whom the zeal for infidel converfion, fo well known in the Roman Catholic Church, employed to preach Chriftianity to thefe inhuman people, were inftantly feized and murdered by them. t The ifland is well wooded ; many parts of it towards the fea-coaft, are covered with impenetrable forefts : in others, the woods are fcattercd with a pleafing irregularity, contributing not only to the beauty of the country, but to its comfort and convenience, by fliading the hills and vallies from the fcorching heat of the fun. The fpecies of trees that are moft abundant, are the teake, the poone, and the larch ; but its moft valuable and precious growth, is the cinnamon tree, which is to be found in every part of the ifland, and is of a quality by no means inferior to that . L- I \\ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. that of Ceylon. We received famples fre(h from the tree, that poffeffed a delicacy of tafte and fragrance equal to any that is brought from thence. Our good friend the padre was fo kind as to procure us forty young plants of the true cinnamon tree, which were intended for the Sandwich Iflands. 41 1788. I'EBauAKr. The air of Magindanao is efteemed falubrious, particularly in the vici- nity of the fea. The heat there is not, in any degree, fo intenfe as might be expelled, in a country which is fituated on the very verge of the tor- rid zone. I do not recoUeft to have feen the thermometer at more than eighty-eight degrees, and it was very often fo low as feventy-two. The prevalence of the Eafterly winds on that part of the coaft which is wafhed by the Paciiic Ocean, renders the air cool and pleafant, the trade- wind blowing inceflkntly on its fliores . It afts, indeed, with fo much power as to fweep the whole breadth of the ifland ; and though in its pafTage it lofes much of its ftrength, it retains a fufficient degree of force to afford refrcfliing breezes to the inhabitants of the Wefteni fliore. The interior parts are much colder, from a very cloudy at- mofphere, which frequently hangs over the fummits of the mountains in thick and humid vapours. 1 I* The foil, which is very exuberant, is fuited to the cultivation of the whole vegetable tribes. Rice is produced in the greateft abundance ; a pecul, or 1331b. may be purchafed for a Spani(h dollar. The yam and fweet potatoe arc cultivated in the liigheft pcrfeftion. Here are alfo to be found the cocoa nut, pumble-nofe, mangoes, the jack, the plantain, oranges, limes, and, in (hort, every fruit that is produced in climates of the fame parallel.— Indeed nature has been extremely bountiful to the inhabitants, in producing for them the great variety of F tropical 42 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. tropical productions, without any demand upon their toil and la* ^"»''*"- hour. Here are alfo gold mines, which are fuppofed to be of confiderablc value ; — and it may be naturally imagined that a knowledge or fufpi- cion of this circumflance firfl: induced the Spaniards to fettle on this ifland :•— but as the natives are ignorant of the art of forming mines, they remain unexplored by them ; and, as we were informed, little, if * any gold has been obtained, but what has been wafhed down by the autumnal torrents from the mountains which the Hilloonas inhabit,, and who are in poflefTion of thofe parts which are believed to contain the precious ore, — But thefe mountaineers are too numerous and refolute to refign a fituation they have maintained fo long, without a fevere and bloody flruggle, and the Spanifh power is, at prefent, far too feeble to- make any attempt to diflodge them. , Iv Every part of the ifland abounds with buffaloes, cows, hogs, goats, &c^ —It affords alfo great variety of fowls, and 3 fpecies of duck, whofe head is of a fine fcarlet colour. Here are alfo a fmall breed of horfes> remarkable for their fpirit. Tlie natives, however, principally employ buffaloes in the various branches of hufbandry and agriculture. If' The people of Maguidanao univerf.illy chew the betel and areka, but make a more moderate ufe of opium than any other inhabitants of the Eaflern fcas. 'I The proas of the Malayans are numerous and powerful ; they carry from fifty to two hundred men ; and the coiifequence of their defultory expeditions is bloodfhed, carnage, and captivity to the people of the defencelefs towns and villages whom they furprize, or the unfortunate crews of veflels which they mny chance to capture. The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The village or town of Samboingan is fituated on the banks of a fmall rivulet, which empties itfelf imnaediately into the fea ; and is agreeably ihaded by groves of cocoa-trees. The number of its inhabitants arc about one thoufand, among which are included the officers, foldiers, and their refpeflive families. In its environs there are fevci.il fmall look- out houfes, erefted on ports of twelve feet high, in all of which a con- ftant guard is kept ; fo that it appears as if the Spaniards were in a cori- tinual ftate of enmity with the natives. The houfes are built of thofe fimple materials which are of very ge- neral ufe in the Eaftern feas. They are erefted on ports, and built of bamboo, covered with mats : — the lower apartments fcrve for their hogs, cattle and poultry, and the upper ones are occupied by the family. Nor did it a little excite our aftonifliment, that the Spaniards, inrtead of creating an emulation and improvement among the natives, from their own fuperior knowledge of the arts and conveniencies of life, rtiould infenfibly fink into the manners and curtoms of the very people whofe ignorance they affect to defpi(e. But, though their houfes have but little to boaft, their piety has produced a decent church, which is built offtone. The fort is a very poor place of defence; and is, as far as we could judge, in an abfolutc rtate of decay; for the governor's cautious fpirit took care to keep us from any particular examination of it. — Towards the land, its whole defence confifted of a fimple barrier, with two or three pieces of cannon.— To a very moderate force indeed, this place would become an ealy capture. Indeed, the Felice and Iphigenia might, without any affirtance, have rendered the Spanirti power very precarious in this fettlement. — The mili- tary force confirted of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred foldiers, natives of Manilla, in which place alfo, the governor himfelf F 2 ' was 43 1788. Feorvary. '♦, I '^St^mftm 44 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. was born. They appeared to be in a rtate of difcipline by no means FiBKUARv. ynworthy of tlie fortrefs which thty gairifoned. Samboingan is the Botany Bay of the Philippines, and crimes of a cer- • tain nature are punifhed there by banifliment to this place. — We did not fee any of the delinquents, but we had reafon to fufpe£l that there were feveral in fome kind of clofe confinement. Inconfiderable, however, as this fcttlement may appear, the governor is fuppoied to clear thirty thoufand dollars in the three years of his refidence there. This advantage he derives from furnidiing the foldiers with cloathing and provifion, — from gold-duft, cinnamon, fpices, and other contraband goods. r t I / i The condutft of the inhabitants was governed by the moft pleafing de- corum, for which they are folely indebted to the civilizing fpirit of the old padre ; as his two fellow-labourers in the fpiritual vineyard, were rather calculated to deprave, than improve the poor people committed to their charge. — Indeed the former was of that amiable, conciliating difpo- fition, which is fo well adapted to the cultivation of favage manners.- — We were equally furprized at hearing a very tolerable band of mufic, which was compofed of natives of the country. — It confifled of four vio- lins, two baflbons, with feveral flutes and mandolins. This unexpeded orcheftra were acquainted with fome of the lelefl: pieces of Handel; they knew many of our Englifh country dances, and feveral of our popular and favourite tunes; but in performing the Fandango, they had at- tained a degree of excellence that the nicefl ears of Spain would have heard with pleafure. The Malayans pofTefs, in common with other favage nations, a fenfibility to the charms of muHc, and are even * capable \-\ i^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 45 capable of attaining no inconfiderable degree of perfedlion iu that de- 1788. lightful Icience. The good old prieft had alfo taught the greater part of the town to dance ; fo that the inhabitants of this diftant and unfrequented fpot, pof- feffed two amufements which are the beft calculated to enliven the dull, or footh the melancholy hours of life. On the evening previous to our departure, the governor, as we have already mentioned, gave us another proof of his polite and hofpitable difpofition, by preparing a ball ex- prefsly for our amufement. About eight o'clock in the evening, the company met at the gover- nor's houfe. The ladies, who were efcorted by a number of young men of Samboingan, were drcfled after the manner of the ifland, which borders on, as we may fuppofe it to be borrowed, from the faihions of Manilla. It confided of a veil which fell gracefully to the ancles, and was fo ar- ranged as to heighten real charms, and to make one fancy beauty even where nature had denied it. The arms alone were bare ; but the folds werefo contrived as half to difcover the bofom, while the entire figure, in all the fimplicity of nature, could not be defcribed as being concealed from the exploring eye.— Their ancles and wrifts were adorned with brace- lets of gold, which gave, as may be fuppofed, fomewhat of arichnefs to an appearance that was already elegant. Many of them were extremely handfome ; nor did certain arch looks, whicli appeared to be habitual, though they were heightened by the dance, render them lefs agreeable. The Fandango was performed in its utmoft perfeftion; — the minuet was not difgraced by their motions, — and Englifli country dances, feveral of which were performed in compliment to us, have been often exhibited with far lefs grace and agility in many of our beft affemblies, than in this diftant and remote corner of the Philippine Iflands.-- This amufe- ment ' ^ii^ M 46 V O YAG E S TO THE 1788. ment lafted till twelve o clock, when all the company retired, with every appearance of the molt perfedt Ihtisra^ion. ■.\ For fuch means of innocent amufement, the people are indebted to the venerable padre, who himfelf joined in the dance. Indeed it would have bern not only to the honour of Spain, but of the religion it profefles, if fuc' .en had been employed, who, like this amiable prleft, could makw ilieir miflions a fourcc of comfort and happinefa, inftcnd of accom- panying them with that feverity of difclpline, and cruelty of compulfion, which renders converdon inHncere or mifunderflood, and is in fuch direfl: oppofition to the mild and benevolent fpirit of Chriftianity. The governor, however, with all his civility, would not permit us to land any inflrumente, in order to make agronomical obfervations ; we were therefore obliged, under confiderable difadvantages, to take them on board the fhips. The latitude of the anchoring ground was, by the medium of feveral good meridian obfervations, 6° 58' North, and the longitude, by twenty obferved diftances of the fun and moon, taken by good fextants, 122°, 28' Eaft of Greenwich. At this time the flag-flaff on the fort bore North half Eaft, diftant half a mile. m The anchorage before the fort is foul and rocky : a-breaft of the town it is much better ; a fandy bottom and well flieltcred, except from the South Weft quarter, and even then the wind has not fufficient range to produce a fea, or to be attended with any circumftance of danger. It will not, I truft, be confidered as foreign to the defign of this woi k, if I interrupt the progrcfs of my voyage, for a few pages, to offer lucli obfervations * t (■;• NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 47 obfervations and notices as I had occafion to make on the paflage between , ^88. the Northern Pacific Ocean and the China feas ; Ibme knowledge of F"»uA»r which courfe, whether it be purfued to the Northward or Southward of the Philippines, muft be of confiderable ufc to Oriental commerce, and be particularly efl*ential to (hips that take the Eaftern paflTage to China, which is occafionally preferred, particularly during a war, by thofe who are bound to the port of Canton, in the North Eaft Monfoon. Nautical obfervations are, at all times, of the greateft importance, and we offer fuch as we have made, to the judicious refle(f\ion of thofe who may be particularly interefted in them. It mutt, indeed, be con- fidered, that although in the track of the Felice and the Iphigenia acrofs the China feas, along the Philippines into the Pacific, no d^lngers were vifibletous; yet others, purfuing this route, may be lefs fortunate, as this very track is generally defcribed as abounding with many. We indeed found a clear navigation, nor have we any reafon to doubt, but that, with a proper degree of precaution, fhips might find a fafe and eafy entrance into the China feas by Magindanao and the channel of BafUan. \ (H i i The Eaftern feas are certainly fct thick with perils, which, of courfe,^ render their navigation exceedingly precarious ; nor are the difficulties of it leflened by the circumftance that thofe perils are, in a great degree, unknown. Ships, indeed, which purfue the common track acrofs the China feas, with the South Weft Monfoon, have not much to fear, if they do but make the different Iflands to procure frefh departures.— Lunar obfervations cannot at all times be taken, a circumftance which ihould animate vigilance and quicken precaution; of which, too much cannot be exercifed in this arduous navigation. It ■t ^ VOYAGES TO THE 1788. It woiil J, by no means, be prudent for (hips to work up the Cliina K£D»uA»Y. fgas againft the North Eaft Monfoon ; and it would, of courfc, be equally hazardous to work down them during the blowing of the SoutliWeft. The currents are in fuch number, and withal fo various, that a (hip is im- perceptibly hurried into the midft of danger. In which the utmoft fkill and adivity will be feldom able, even in copper-bottomed veflcls, to efcapc deftruftion. It is true, that there have been examples of (hips who have accom- pliflicd their voyage againft the reigning winds : but they fliould rather be reprcfented as extraordinary inftances of good fortune, from having efcapcd a variety of dangers, any one of which might have proved fatal, than be cited to encourage others to purfue a Hmilar navigation : for befides the ri(ks of a voyage, even if it (hould be performed under thcfe circumftanccs, the chances are very much againft the poflibility of doing it, when the monfoons blow ftrong either one way or the other. As (hips, even in the periodical winds, are expofed to dangers, it is efllntially neceffary that they fliould, at all times, be provided with a couple of chronometers ; by the aid of which inftruments the pofitions of fliips may be afcertained ; for as they are liable to flop, fliould fuch an accident happen to one of them, the portion of time elapfed, may be determined by the other, particularly if they are obferved every four hours, a circumftance which fliould be an objedl of the moft careful at- tention. Their regularity alio fliould be examined and proved at every place where the fliip ftops a fufficient time to make the neceffary trial- i) ■ There are many recent inftances of very fatal accidents which have happened to veffels, during the regular monfoons, from the want of thefe very ufeful inftruments. The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The (hip Hornby, bound from Canton to Bombay, in the month of December, 1788, in a gale of wind, fell in with theiflandPula Sapata, in the China fcas, and was within a moment of being daflicd to pieces. She was fo clofe to the land, that nothing could have faved her but the violent rebound of the furge from the fide of a rock ; when, by being extremely alert in fetting fail, (he moft fortunately got round it. A Dutch (hip in the fame year, was loft on the Prata (hoal ; her crew was faved in the long-boat, and got fafe to Canton. In the year 1789, and fome time In the month of June, the (hip Lizard, bound from Bombay to Canton, was wrecked on the Lincoln (hoal. The captain and feven men were all which were faved of her crew. After undergoing the greateft hard(hips and diftrefs in a fmall boat, they arrived at Canton. The Argyle(hire, a large country (hip, bound from Bengal to China, was fuppofed to have been loft fomewhere in the China feas. The number of Spani(h and Portuguefe (hips which have been loft in thefe feat alfo are by no means inconfiderable ; fo that too much vigilance and precaution cannot be employed in fuch an hazardous navigation. 49 1788. H s, ' 1 ;i The (hip Cornwallls, of eight hundred tons burthen, commanded by Captain William Counfill, failed down the China feas on her voyage to Bengal, in the month of May 1 789, when it was to be fuppofed that the South Weft Monfoon was fet in, and encountered fuch a variety of (hoals, rocks and iflands, that her efcape was con(idered as miraculous. And had (he not been uncommonly well appointed, and navigated with ' G fuperior I 50 VOYAGES TO THE 1 788. faperior (kill and ability, in all probability (he would never have reached r...„*«T. B^pgj,,^ As the following Extra£t of a Letter from on bonrd this (hip may be of conliderable ufe to future navigators of thefe parts, no apology can be confidered as necciTary for the infertion of it : fl (■■ : ;^- f^ " Malacca, 'July 4, 1789. "WE arrived here on the 27th of June, after a pafTage of '* forty-five days, from China, which we confider as extremely tedious ** for (b prime a failer as the Cornwaliis. In our pafTage down we " had an a(loni(hing (et to the Eaftward : we could not make either ** the Macclesfield or Pula Sapata> The firft land that appeared to ** view was on the 28th of May, bearing South Weft half South, diftant ** four leagues, with a reef of dangerous rocks and breakers, which we ** fuppofed to be the Andrades, being nearly in the latitude of them.— •* At half paft two, P. M. a (hoal was fecn from the deck, bearing ** South Weft half Weft, diftant two miles; and at four, ftanding to " the South Eaft, we were obliged to tack for another (hoal, bearing «• South Eaft by Eaft, diftant two miles. On the South Eaft end of •• this (hoal, is a low Tandy idand, on which we faw the appearance of *• a wreck : the weather was very fqually ; during the night we deemed " it prudent to ftand under an eafy fail to the Northward, fearing this •• chain of (hoals might extend more to the South : the next morning *• at day-break, we wore and ftood to the (hoals, and at ten, A. M. " made them. We were then obliged to haul to the Eaftward and " Eaft North Eaft, till three P. M. and thus, by degrees, to clfear " tho \y ) '•» NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «« the different (hoals which prefcntetl t!icmfelve» to our view ; eleven " of them forming i deep circle ur curve, and are backed to the Weft- •• ward by very extcnfivP branches. They ippear to extend from each «• extreme, Eaft North Eaft, fo Weft South Wefl, and about twcnty- ** five miles in extent : and what adds to the danger in making them is, ♦• that they are even with the furface of the water, which if fmooth and «• unruffled, they cannot be fecn, there not being a rock about them but «• the firfl. 5' 1788. FliaUAKY. between Formofa and Luconia. If the paffage to the Weftward of Magindanao be preferred, there is no danger to be apprehended, at leaft, that we faw, from entering the channel of Bafilan : in the latter, confiderable overfalls will be found, but nothing elfe, up to the place of anchorage off Fort Caldera. This paflage is alfo by much the (horteft ; and, in our opinion, to be, in every refpeft, equal to that of the Pacific Ocean, exclufive of the very important confideration of refrefliing the crews of fliips. On leaving Samboingan, the navigator fhould hug the fliore of Magin- danao clofe on board, as much as poflible, as the wind will be generally found to blow off the fliore, which is fteep clofe to, and no danger to be apprehended from it. The diredions of anchorage are already ex- preffed in the account which has been given of the fettlement of Samboingan. From Magindanao, it will be proper to fteer a d'lrtSt courfe for the South part of the Ifland of Panay ; — if the wind is not very favourable, it will be neceffary to border the coaft of the Ifland del Negros ; nor is there any danger to be apprehended from fleering clofe to Panay, as it has a very bold coaft, till the Weft point of the Ifland of Mindoro is reached : from thence the courfe lies to the coaft of Luconia, where confiderable advantage will be received from the currents which run to the Northward, during the period of the North Eaft Monfoon, off Cape Bolinou, from twenty to twenty-five miles in twenty-four hours, and oftentimes as high as Cape Buxadore. The ^5 VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. The greateft precaution (hould be obfervcd about the period when the Februarv. monfoons change,— a time to be dreaded above all others in the China feas ; — if, therefore, (hips fliould have reached Samboingan any time in the month of 0£tober, it would be extremely proper for them to remain tlicre till the North Eaft Monfoon is fet ftrongly in. After Odober, the paflage to and from Manilla to China Is always certain. Even the worft of the Spanilh (hips, and they are the moft miferably equipped of any vcffels in the world, work up the coaft of Luconia to the height of the ifland, aflifted by the Northerly current ; they then ftretch over to the coaft of China, and are certain of efFe£ling their palTage. On the whole it is evident, that this route is the fafeft, as well as the moft expeditiours ; and, at all events, fuperior to that of the Weft coaft of Borneo, If the Pacific Ocean ftiould be preferred to effeft the paflage by ftretching to the Eaftward, and then tacking to weather Luconia, it would be right to ftand to the Eaft till the coaft of New Guinea is weathered, and the 150th degree of longitude is reached ; when it is probable, that the dangerous groupe of iflands, called the Carolines, will be weathered; amongft which are included the Pelew, and other low iflands, which are furrounded by reefs of rocks to a great di<>a;ic?, and are without any foundings to give notice of danger in dark and ftormy nights* Between Magindanao and New Guinea, there are fo many clufters of thefe low iflands, as to require, and almoft to baffle the utmoft vigilance and precaution. When to the Northward of thefe dangers, the Baftiee Iflands may be made, feen by Dampier, or the Ifland of Botol Tobago Xima, feen by Lord NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 57 Lord Anfon ; but it would be the beft way to make tlie latter, cxercifing 1788. every poffible degree of attention to avoid the Abregoes fhoal, which is '■*"*«'**^' extremely dangerous. When Botol Tobago Xima is vifible, one may fteer without the leaft apprehenfion, even in the darkeft night, South Weft 14 leagues, when the rocks of Ville Retc will be rounded at a moderate diftance, and the China feas may be entered by hauling up to the Northward and Weftward. There is a fmall rocky iflet, bearing nearly Eaft of Botol Tobago Xima, fome miles diftant ; — and great atten- tion fliould be paid that the former may not be miftaken for the latter. The rocks of Ville Rete are extremely dangerous ; they form in a clufter, and are furrounded by breakers ; the largeft of them is about the height of a fmall (hip's hull out of the water : they bear off the South end of For- mofa. South Wefterly, five leagues. We thought that, from the maft- head, we could diftinguilh a channel between them and Formofa. The laft time we made Botol Tobago Xima it was almoft dark, — the weather ftormy and hazy ; and, very (hortly after, it blew a tremendous gale of wind at Eaft. We fteered South Weft 15 leagues, and hauled up Weft and Weft North Weft, and entered the China feas at midnight, without feeing any thing of Formofa. The longitude of thefe places is laid down by us from good obfervations of the fun and moon. In this run, the general account muft be laid in having a ftrong current fetting to the Weftward, from the moment a fliip puts her head to the Northward. The land generally made on the coaft of China is about the Pedro Blanco, or White Rock : from thence, within the Lcma Iflands, is a fafe palTage to Canton, and no danger of any kind to be apprehended. By this courfe the Prata (hotil, whofe dangers are fo well known, is avoided. n If l-'l""!!"'.! ^^lyi J 1 i i\ . >•> f . - it .V /' 58 1788. V O YAG E S T O T HE If a (hip enters the China feas by making the Bafliee Iflands, her paflage to Canton may be endangered, from the ftrong Southerly cur- rents at that feafon. This paiTage, tiierefore, is not fo fecure as the former, particularly as the Spaniards have feized thefe iflands, and eftabliflied a force on them, though at prefent of no great ftrength or power. .' ' ^ ■ • w The Baihee Iflands, however, are bold and fafe ;— we were here in 1 786, and procured refrefliments. It may not be generally known that the Spaniards have taken poflefiiou of them. But fo it is ; and a governor re- iides on Grafton Ifle, with about an hundred foldiers, feveral officers, a few priefts, and five or fix pieces of cannon, which are mounted before his houfe ; but without fortification or defences of any kind. •^'■ Our flay at thefe iflands was fo fhort, as not to afford us an opportu- nity of attaining any thing but a very general information concerning them ; but, as very few fhips have ever been known to vifit the Bafhee iflands, it may not only fatisfy curiofity, but be of ufe to the Oriental navigation, to offer fuch intelligence as we pofTefs from our own obfer- vation, or the information of others. n- Thefe iflands, which are fituated between Formofa and Luconia, are five in number, — befides four fmall rocky iflets, which, however, are covered with verdure. Dampier gave the following names to the five larger of them : Grafton Ifland, which is the mofl confiderable,— Mon- mouth Ifland, which is the next in fize, — Goat Ifland, Orange Ifland, and Bafhee Ifland, which are much fmaller than the two former. They are inhabited by a race of flrong, athletic men, who have been hitherto happy in a foil that produced every thing necefliiry for their fupport and I comfort : ?iv.\ ^ / jtCA- '- '—-»*.. 1 M <• I % > iiV ». 1 4.,: S-' -,*»%- IV-v'^li ''1 , : -.I' 1 , UMrt tUt iU.;ui! J» j^i«<>j»i' •■«. &■ ttJKi dtiVt /'■'i' iWidl. • . V"''' " ' ' 1 >' M '•^i* !(l<^ 7'^f:^' j.jrt« nn« l|i n llllwc»ii>>»i *H li«» " »' I •I' "p J I 1 I- P: .'1. f « .> i-.Tij. «^ 1 VIS ^ li .iM". »|«**<"-'-»*l *««••«*» fl***»'##«ri«! .fe*. NORTH WEST COA8T OP AMERICA. $9 comfort:— But we cannot fuppofe that the bappmefs thefe people pof- 1788. fefled will find any addition from the yoke of Spain. , Orange Ifland lies North and South, and is almoft inaccefliblc on every fide : it is entirely flat at the top : at the diflance of four leagues, on approaching it from the China Teas, the peak on Grafton Ifle is very difcernable over this high flat. We (hould fuppofe, that the iflauil is fifty feet above the level of the Tea. On the North of this ifland, arc four rocky ifles, called Anfon's Rocks ; two of them are within three miles of the North end of the ifland. — We entered this paflage and difcovered no danger : a large fliip might even brufli her fides againfl Orange Ifland. The other two fland four or five miles from the former, and from that paflage which Lord Anfon made hi the Centurion. Grafton Ifland is fituated to the £a(l of Orange Ifland ; ftands nearly North and South, is of confiderable extent, being about thirteen leagues in circumference, and has a good anchorage on the Weflern fide. About two miles to the Soutliward of the town where the governor refides, is a fmall fandy bay, where we anchored in nine fathoms, about half a mile from the fliore ; the foundings gradually decreafing from forty fathoms to nine fiithoms ; but the bank does not run off more than two miles. The latitude of the fliips pofition was 20'' 36' North, and longitude, by obfervation of fun and moon, 1 27;' £aft of Greenwich. The appearance of this ifland is extremely beautiful and luxuriant ; and the fupplies we received very well anfwered to the charming fcene of their production. The natives brought us abundance of the finefl: yams in the world, with fugar canei taro root, plantain and other vege- i - ; H 2 tables: ■^li. i :/? So 1788. PtmvARr. VOYAGESTOTHE tnblcs r we alfo received hogs and goats in great plenty, but very littlt poultry. Iron was the favourite commodity of thcfe people, though beads, at times, fccmcd to poflefs an equal, if not fupcrior value- Indeed, (luce the Spaniards have polFeflcd themfclves of thcfe iflands, monry as well as iron arc in ufo among them> In the time of Dampier, beads were the only medium of their commerce. We left the governor a breed of Bengal (heep, which, when put on fhore, roamed in a clover pafture, and on a foil of exuberant fertility. There can be no doubt but that thofc animals will thrive in their Hew abode, and that future navigators flopping at thcfe iflands, will meet with a plentiful fupply. The water on the Jfland is very fine, in great abundance, andclofeto the beach ; a fmall refcrvoir being formed there, which is fupplied by a rivulet that flows from the mountains. A Spanifli force arrived at thefe iflands fomc time in the year 1783, to take pofleflion of them ; with what view it is, by no means, difficult to conjedlure, when it is known that they were fuppofed to contain mines of gold. We certainly faw a confiderable quantity of gold duft in the pofleflion of the natives, and feveral fmall pieces which, in all probability, had been waflied down by the torrents from the mountains, and found in the beds of the rivulets with which thefe iflands abound.— Thefe, fome of which wcpurchafed, were manufadlured into thick wire, and worn as ornaments in their ears, or about the necks of the children. hi ^ (A p;. ....^ They are well inhabited by a race of inofl^enfive people, whofe chief delight confifts in drinking a liquor called bafhee, which is diflilled from rice and the fugar cane. In the evening, men, women and children meet in crowds on the fliores, with torches in their hands, and drink bafliee till they are intoxicated, when they engage in dancing, and difplay every l^^:# NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 6i every mark of fatisfafllon and contentment. It it, however, very much 1788, to be feared that thefc idanders mud have already found a mortifying '"»"*'«'f- intci 1 iption to their feAive pleafures, from the tyranny and bigotry of Si i.ufh dominion. The weather in the South Weft Monfoon is cxtrem;Iy t^mpcftuous ; and when gales of wind blow here, they are of the moft ftormy and violent nature. The currents and tid^s run rapid and ftrong, particularly along the Southernmoft of thtfe idands, all of which are low ; it is neccflary, therefore, that (hips (hould give them a good birth in their paflage between thefc iflands and Formofa. ?,( ■•>*. ■', V' ■' - ; I, . " 0.,-^ . '' , , . . .- - . • ■ .,') 'i ' . iUr't .'jfi .> , >': it 1 - ■• ■ .- .'.■' ./ \t .•iT » ' ' ' * ' ■ . J' '.7 •:•.•: ''. ■ ^Y : -'■ ■ >■. ' ' ' iV/ ,, , h-^f.."' -■ '. '/ '■:■■■■> , !•'• •'' • :iv •• --, :l-- n ' • '.? ■'.I V. ' ,5 •.. ■■ CHAP. ;<■ 6x 1788. FeiKUARY. V O YAG E S TO THE CHAP. V. Departure of the Felice from Samboingitn . — Pafs the Felice* s IJles.-— Mention of the Orders and Injlrudliom given by the Merchants Proprietors for performing the Foyage. — Extriwrdinnry Change in the Temper of the Buffaloes received on board. — Pafs the JJland of Magindnnno. — Rapidity of the Currents. — Efcape the IJland of Providence. — Pafs the Talour JJlands. — IJland of Sanguir. — See the North Cape. — Impoffibility of J feathering it. — Invariablenfs of the Trade Winds in the Pacific Ocean. — Bear up to Leeward of the North Cape. — Pafs the JJland Riou.^- The Channel between Morintay and the IJland of Jelolo. — Fragrance of the Jlir. — Pafs the Southern Extremity of Morintay. — Reach the Sea. — The Latitude of Morintay afcertained. ^uefday ij. A^ N the I ztli of February, at day break, we had loft fight of V-/ Sambouigan, and purfued our courfe along the coaft of Magindanao : the latitude at noon was 6° 34' North, and the extreme part of the ifland in fight, bore Weft North Weft, diftant twelve leagues. The ifland of Bafilan bore from South Weft by South, to Weft North Weft four leagues : in this pofition the hill we have already mentioned, as refembling a Mandarin's cap, was very confpicuous. We obferved two fmall iflands fituated between Magindanao and Bafilan, bearing North by Eaft, diftant four miles : they were not of any great extent, but entirely covered with wood. As they bore no place on the charts, they were named Felice's Ifles. A con- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^ A conllderable current had fet us during the night to the North 1788. Eaft ; the wind blew fre(h from the Northward and Southward, and ^"»"**^' at funfet we could but juft difcern the ifland of Magindanao. Previous to our departure from Samboingan and feparation from the Iphigenia, the orders and inftru£tions marked Number II. in the Appendix, were delivered to Captain Douglas, for the guidance cf his future conduft. Thofe marked Number I. were delivered by the merchants proprietors before our departure from China. Thefe in- ftruflions contain at large the motives to, and real objefts of, the voyage ; and it will not furely be erring from the truth, if it is afferted, that they do not contain a fingle expreiTion inconfiflent with that huma« nity, or derogatory of thofe principles which it is the honour of Britifli merchants to adopt, in conducing their commerce in the different quar- ters of the globe. Thefe orders and inftru£lions may be faid, without any fear of contradidlion, to breathe, in every part of them, that fpirit of benevolence and juftice, and to contain thofe honeft incitements to in- duftry, which, in whatever part of the habitable earth they are exerted or employed, muft ultimately tend to the honour of humanity, and the advantage of our country. - On the 13th, we continued our courfe, with light and variable winds ; Wcdnefdayij the weather fultry and cloudy. By fix in the evening, we had loft light of the South Weftern extremity of Magindanao ; off which we had per- ceived an ifland of a remarkable appearance, that wore the form of a mountain, v/hofe fides flielved almoft perpendicularly to the fea. During the night we had heavy rain ; — our courfe was to the Southward and Eaftward ; toclofc in with the South Eaft end of Magindanao, which, on *•■*"— • -■ •% -^'" iijiii ;fii " >ii » < Lri iiiniii :/f ^4 V O YAG E S TO THE 1 788. on the following morning, we liad confiderably neared ; when we found it Thuriiiay 14 ^o ^^ '"g'^ 3"^ mountaiiious, and entirely covered with wood from the fea to its fummit. We frequently foundelne would produce feme abatement of the influence of the North Eaft Monfoon. But, after all, taking both the favourable and unfavourable circumftances in a proper point of view, with the dark and tedious nights, the courfe before us could not be coiifidcrcd but as replete with difficulties and perils, both of which muft be greatly augmented, if tempeftuous weather fliould unfortunately overtake us. i 't ;<.: I) The current, like a vaft, but fteaJy, rapid ftrcam, fvvept us bodily to leeward : — it ran, at Icaft, three miles an hour ; and we had every reafon to believe, that it ran much ftronger as it approached the Straits of Macaflar. Indeed, it fwept us away {o much, that we were not able to reach the ifland feen in the South Eall; by Eaft quarter, by five leagues. During the night of the 15th, we had a great deal of wind, but the fca was uncommonly fmooth ; a certain (Ign that we were in the vicinity of fome great body of land. We kept fleering to the South Eaft by Eaft, with a ftendy gale to the Northward and Eaftward, T 'e courfes were hauled up in the brails, in order to fee more diftindl v, and to be in a ftate of preparation to haul upon either tack, to avoid any immediate or prefling danger. Thefe precautions proved to be extren ely neceflary ; for about midnight we difcovcred, by the light of the moon, that we were clofe to an ifland, covered with a white fand, and ahnoft on a level with the water. We very fortunately perceived this dangerous objefV, .^11' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. obje£V, near half a mile from us ; and had fufficient time to put the helm a weather, and bear up to leeward. We then founded, but found no ground with an hundred fathoms of line. Wc continued, however, to give it a good birth until two in the morning, when we loft fight of it, and then refumed our courfe to the Eaft South Eaft, with a frefh gale from the North Eaft. *>1 1788. Fkbkuary. Thefe low.fandy iflands, which are fcattered every where near the Line, render the navigation of thofe parts of a very perilous nature. No foundings can be obtained to warn the navigator of the approaching danger : fo that in a dark night no vigilance or precaution is fufficient to fecure him from the imminent hazard of deftrudtion. At fun-rife, land appeared, extending from North Weft to Weft, at ^'""■■^='>' '* the diftanceof 16 leagues. The fmall, low, fandy iflet feen in the night, we judge to lie in the latitude of 4° 1' North, and in the longitude of 137° 10' Eaft, to which we gave the name of Providence Iflaud. At noon, the latitude was 3" jz' North. During the Lift twenty- four hours, we experienced a current that fet the ftiip thirty-three miles to the Southward. Tlie longitude was 127° 58' Eaft. Land was now fccn in almoft every diretStion, extending from Eaft North Eaft to Weft North Weft ; and, to the Northward and Eaftward, appeared broken and de- tached, as if composed of a groupe of iflands. The Wcftward land was dlftant from us abr^t 15 leagues. At fun-fct, the body of the windward ifles bore Nortli North Eaft, at the diftance of 14 leagues. Our pofition was now extremely doubtful; nor could we reconcile it to any of the charts on bo.-.rd. We were indeed, inclined to fiippofe, that the land to the Nortlj North Eaftcon- fifted of thofe iflands named tlie Talour, and the land to the Weftward ^ 2 ti,^. ^.K.v- 1 m / 68 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. FEBRUARY. the Ifland of Sanguir. If our cot>je«f^inTs were right, the currents muft liave adled on us with great force in fetting us to the Southward ; and it now became a matter of painful uncertainty if we Hiould be able to weather the North Cape ; which was an object of the utmoft importance. I I). n? {. \ t We had, indeed, flattered ourfelves, that, on our approach to the Line, we fhould have experienced variable winds ; but hitherto the wind flood, as it were, immovably to the Eaft; nor did it feem inclined to give us a point of advantage. Our prefent fituation, therefore, as well as our future profpe^l:, was clouded with uncertainty; and the chance was but too probable that we (hould be driven to leeward of Jelolo, and conle- quently be forced to encounter a navigation of the mod difficult nature. We were fully convinced, that, if the North Cipe could not be weathered, a paflage muft be attempted through the Moluccas, to the Southward of Jelolo, where there was good reafon to. expeft that we Ihould meet, if not the North Weft Monfoon, at leaft with fuch variable winds as would allow us to re-enter the Northern Pacific Ocean by Pitt's Straits ; but even then, it was by no means certain, whether we fhould be able to weather the coaft of New Guinea; nor could we refledl, without extreme mortification, on being obliged to run down its Weftern coaft, and, by Endeavour's Straits, to reach the Southern Ocean ; as fuch a courfe, during which the long and dark nights would continually obftru£l and delay our progrefs, muft, in the end, totally defeat the purpofe of our voyage. — On the other hand, if we ftood to the North, ill order to beat round New Guinea, againft a ftrong monfoon, there was every reafon to believe that we fliould fail in our purpofe : in- deed, we found it necefiary to give it up, from the evident impoflibility of efftding it, without a great wafte of that time of which we had fo little to fpare. Thefe tlilficulties were of a nature not eafily to be over- come ; NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. 69 come ; and the event proves how narrowly we efcaped from encountering 1 78S. the very obftacles which our apprehenfioiis had placed before us. FtaRUAnr. During the niglit of the i6th, we continued (leering to the Eaft South Eaft under a prefs of fail. The moon (hone clear and bright, fo that any danger round the horizon would have been readily dif« cerned. • • On the morning of the 17th, land was feen a-hcad, bearing in the Sunday 17 dirciStion of Eaft, atthediftance of 12 leagues; and to leeward, land was alfo feen bearing South South Weft. The latitude at noon was 2" 40' North. The North Cape now bore from us Eaft, Northerly, at the diftance of 14 leagues. The wind blew fteadily from the North Eaft and Eaft North Eaft, with a ftrong Southerly current. We continued clnfing in with the North Cape, in expectation of re- Monday is ceiving the advantage of a land wind ; when, at fix in the evening, being within two miles of the iiland of Morintay, we were oblig d to tack and ftand to fea for the fuft time. — We could not find any foundings with an hundred fathoms of line. — But although we wf:re fo unfortu- nate as to fall to leeward of the North Cape, we were determined not to relax in our endeavours, till we were convinced of t!ie impradica- bility of weathering it; and it was with this view we tacked and ftood to fea. By ten o'clock in the morning, we were again clofe in with the ifland of Moiintay, having tacked at midnight for tlie ftiore ; but neither at fea, or dole in with the land, were we fo fortunate as to expciijnce any alteration of the wind in our fiivour. We Ind alio the mo.tification to ob(erve, that the Southerly currents had (ct us duriug the Ml :i4 i / VOYAGES TO THE i)i 1788. February. the night, bodily to leeward of the pofition we had occupied on the preceding evening. At noon the latitude was 2° 35' North, and we had entirely loft llglitof the \orth Cape, which now bore Eaft by North, diftaut 17 leagues, immediately hi the wind's eye. The Imprad\icability of efTc^ling our objed was now become fo ap- parent, as to embarrafs our fituation with a choice of difficulties. Wc difcovcrcd, however, a narrow clianncl between a fmall ifland, bi aring South South Eaft, at the diftancc of four leagues, and the ifland of Morintay. Jelolo was alfo very difccrnible ; thcNorthcrnmoft point of which bore South Weft, diftant only 13 leagues. Between this point and the ifland wc have juft mentioned, there appeared an extenfive channel ; we had, therefore, no other alternative, but to make our paflage through it, and round the Southern extremity of Morintay, without rifking any more of our time, which was now fo precious, in fruitlcfs endeavours to weather the North Cape againft winds, currents, and fea. We were perfeflly aware, that, having one? entered upon this courfe, there would be no poflibility of returning; as well as that it niight en- tangle us in the flioals of Jelolo and the deep gulph of Chiauw, which is alfo lillcd with ftioals and ftiallows, and into which the monfoon per- petually blows, bac!:ed by conftant currents. Such a combination of circumftances wcro nivire tlian fufficicnt to convince us, that in profe- cuting our prefcnt dcfign we muft be governed by an unremitting pcrfc- verance. Accordingly, at noon, we bore up for the channel between the iflands Riou and Jelolo ; and by four P. M. it was open, and appeared of fufficlent breadth to navigate; but in the middle feveral fmall, low, and fandy iflands were fituated, which might, in fome meafure, inter- rupt, if not endanger the navigation of the channel ; we, therefore, purfucd our courfe along the coaft of Riou, at the diftance of two miles : — the n 1 A NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 7« —the land was every where covered with wood to the water's edge ; but, 1 7^8. jis far as we could difcover, without the veftige of an liabitation. We could not obtain foundings with forty fathoms of line. At half part four, the high mountains of Jelolo appeared to rear their fummits above the horizon, which immediately fettled the critical nature of our fituation. We had now advanced fo far, that any attempt to • return would have been the extreme of folly ; — the clianncl was alrendy pafltd, but the Ifland of Morintay exttncl.d a great dt^l farther to the Southward than any of the charts had laid it down :— Riou was alfo pafled; and now a deep, capacious channel was formed by Jelolo and Morintay, of near 12 or 13 leagues in extent. The great gulph of Chiauw was now under our Ice; — a range of low, fandy iflands, conneflcd with flioals, were fituated about five leagues off Morintay, in the channel along which we fleered. Tiie moon fhone very briglit, or we (hould not have ventured to proceed during the night. The wind blew ftrong from the North Eaft; and men were conftantly ktpt in both chains, to attend to the foundings, as well as on the yards to look out f )r broken water, or any other circum- ftance of danger. As we paflcd thofe iflands, the flioals appeared very plain, at the diftance of about four miles, and we could fee a dreadful ■ furf rolling over them. Our foundings were now from fix, fevcn, to eight fathoms, very regular, and over an hard, fandy bottom. On getting more out into the cbaiincl, we had fourteen, twenty, and fome- times even thirty fathoms, with the fame kind of ground. Thcfe iflands extend near five leagues. North and South,— are about five leagues froia Morintay, and eight from Jelolo. We think it would be incrtafing the incidental hazards of this channel to pafs between the iflands and Morintay, as we found a ftrong and rapid current fetting us almoft due South. It u "« f K- 17S8. I'iilKl/AKV. VOYAGES TO THE It was greatly to our mortification that wc pafled this chamul cliiring tlic night, as we were thereby prevented from fending boats on fliorc to examine the nature of the foil, and to look for turtle, as low, fandy idands are places where they are generally found. In our paflage we perceived the air to be ftrongly perfumed with fpicy odours ; fome of us even imagined they could diftinguilh the peculiar fragrance of the nutmeg plant. ; ::. ■^ ' ' '« ' n m As we cleared this chain of illands and fhoals, we kept as clofc to the wind as pofilble, to near, once more, the South end of Morintay, which TuefJayiQ We happily cfFecled by break of day on the 19th, being only three leagues from it. We kept fleering thus till noon, when the latitude was 1° 47', the extremes of the ifland of Rlou bearing from South Weft by Weft, to South Weft, one half South, diftant nine leagues; and the extremes of Jelolo bearing from South South Weft, to Soutii Eaft, diftant eleven leagues : in this pofitlon the channel we had failed tluough was entirely doled, Wedncfdayio Our courfe was continued to the Eaft South Eaft, with the wind from the North Eaft, but light, till the 20th ; when at noon, we had, to our great joy, a confidcrable offing towards the fea; the latitude was i°56' North, the ifland of Morintay bearing from South by Weft, half Weft, to Weft by North, half North, diftant fixteen leagues ; and the ifland of Jelolo bearing from South by Weft to South Weft, diftant fourteen leagues. Thus we moft happily reached the fea, without any material lofsoftime, and through a channel which, in any other situation, we fhould not have ventured to pafs ; though we faw nothing to prevent a flilp pafting it with eafe and fiifety, by following the example of our pre- caution, and attending to the particular circumftances which have been juft related ;— The bearings are marked with all poflible care and fidelity, for NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 71 for the benefit of any navigator, who, from preference or necefljty, miy 1788. think proper to follow our courfe. PMauAtr. From Magindanao we had hitherto experienced a continuance of flrong currents* fetting to the South and South Weft ; the wind invariably at North Eaft ; and, in the whole track, from that ifland to Moriutay« we have noticed mod of the dangers which lie between them. '" We confider the Southern extremity of the ifland of Morintay to be in the latitude of 1° 40' North, and the longitude 1 28° Eafl of Greenwich : — The land which was feen on the i6th, muft have been, as we thencon- jeftured, the Talour Ifles, and the Ifland of Sanguir. ;| '»| K CH A J>. V. its l\ i^' r» 1788. FftkbAkV. VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. VI. il Hi Slip^i Courft purfitid to the EaJlwarJ.^Curnnts fit Lr to the 1/IjhJ of ll'dgiew. — Symptoms of the Scurvy among the Crew,— J f^ind veers ^ for the firft I'imej to the North prefi.^^Ptifs iFagiew and the dangerous fhtce IJks. — Freewill [fles feen.-^Natives come on Board. — 'their Joy at feeing Iron. — Some Account of thofe IJles. — 'thi'ir Latitude and Longitude ^ ^c. — 'The Jlrong Currents in their Vicinity. ^ Friday >» "jV TO material occurrence happened till the iid ; tlie courfc was kept i ^ to tlie Eaft Sjuth Eaft ; the wind blew fteadily from the North Eaft, and we daily experienced a Southerly current. At this time the Northern extremity of New Guinea bore from us in the diredlion of Eaft South Eaft, diftant 1 20 leagues, when we faw land, bearing Eaft South Eaft, to Weft by North, at the diftance of about nine leagues from the body of it. The land to tlie Weftward wc concluded to be the Ifland of Wagiew, which forms the Northernmoft part of Pitt's Straits ; but of the land to the Eaft we could form no conjeflure, as none appeared to be marked on the charts in that direction. The lati- tude at noon was only 12' North of the Line, and the longitude was 131° 10' Eaft of Greenwich. At this time the Ifland of Wagiew extended from South Eaft by Eaft, to Weft, and our diftance from the body of it might be about fix leagues. In this fituation wc were drifting bodily to leeward on Wagiew, and found it to be almoft impoHible to double the extremity of this ifland, much ' \ N O R T II W E S T C O A S T O r A M E R I C A. 75 much Icfs New Guinea, without fmnc favourahlo alteration of the 1788. winds whicli liail hitherto never varied from the North Eaft ; bcfidcs, the '*•*"***• ftrong Siiuthcrly currents had now let the fhip thus fur, fothat we were altogether In a fituation furroundcd with circumftanccs of uncertainty and cnibarraflinent. We fcarce knew how to cxpetJl a cliangc that would be propitious ; and, ntverthelefs, a patient expe»flation of it fcfmcd to be ahnoft tlic only refourcc, fuch as it was, that remained to us. The weather was extremely fultry, but the winds were light, which was the only favourable circumftance of which we could boaft. A perfcvcring fplrit, however, foinetimcs furmounts dangers that ap- pear to be infurmountablc, and we determined to continue the exertion of it. This day, at noon, we had made no progrefs whatever. The latitude Sai"rJ»yij was 0° 20' North of the Line ; and the longitude was 131° jV Eaft. We were now diflant only five leagues funn Wagiew, which extended from Eaft South Eaft, to Weft South Weft. The land bore a very different iippearance from that which we had hitherto fcen : — it was extremely high, compofcd of broken and dctnchtd hills, and prefented, as f;ir as wc could difcover, a very barren afpeH:. — It ran due Eaft and Weft, and all the hills (helved abruptly into the Tea. We could procure no foundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. A fmall ifland was alfo per- ceived in the North Eaft quarter. ¥' i '1 \ '■I 14 t I Thus were we approaching every moment nearer to the land, with- out any profpeil of fuch a change as would reward our perleverance.— We had now been purfuing, for a long month, an intricate and fatigyinf navigation, without having made any confiderable progrefs. The fultry heats alfo began to affcd feveral of our people ; and the expetStation of the tedious paflage to America, with which we '.\ere threatened, rendeied K 2 the H 76 1788. FSBKUAKY. VOYAGES TO THE the crew not only diflatisfied, but defpondent. Symptoms of the fcurvy had begun to appear, in fpite of our f trift adherence to thofe admirable rules of regimen fo happily conceived, and fuccefsfuUy praflifed by Cap- tain Cook. We had now redoubled our attentions to keep off the in- teinal enc;my that threatened us, wlti'i .in anxious expeflaticn of fuccefs, but. we know not how hr that wou' 1 hiwe been gratified, if an alteration hnd not taken place with us,, which »nli/encd the droopinf; fpirits of the crew, and animated them to iiew endeavours. At four in the evening of this day, when we were within three 1. agues of the ifland, the wind fprung up on a fudden from the North We/.l, which was the firft favour- able change wc had experienced fince o'.ir departure from Samboinjjan. Wc took an immediate advantage of this fortunate circumftancr in our favour; the couifc wad altered to the North Eaft, and al! fail fet ; fo that, at fun-fet, we had got a confiderable diftance from Wagiew. More land was nov fecn a-head, which was very low, and, from its detached, broken appearance, we judged to be a groupe of iflands. During the night we kept (landing to che North Eaft, immediately for the land, and the wind continued to the Weft North Weft, which SuiiAiy j+ enabled us to keep our courfe till day-break on the twenty-fourth, whe:i we found ourfelves within three leagues of the land feen on the pre- ceding evening It confifted of feveral iflands, as we had conjeilured, which were very low, entirely covered with wood, and furroundcd by Hioals and reefs of rocks, and appeared to be of confiderable extent. They bore from North Weft, to NoMh Eaft by Eaft, and were diftant from each other about five miles. • As no fuch iflands were placed on the charts, we thought proper to • name them the TaUe Ifles, from the word, which was continually vo- ciferated y\ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 77 clferated by the few natives who came within hearing, of the (hip. 1788. They are fituated in 0° 20' of North latitude, and in the longitude of f"*''*'"^- 132° 2' Eaft of Greenwich. They are very dangerous to approach, efpc- cially in tht ^.t?.!/ and the (hip that (hould be tempted to pafs through them, would inevitably be loft. We (aw feveral canoea paddling between the reefs ; and two of them, containing each five of the natives, approached very near to the (hip, vociferating the word Tateet 'Tatee, with great violence ; but no tempta- tion on our part could prevail on them to come along-fide, though we held up many of thofe articles which we thought the moft likely to entice them to a nearer communication with us. — They regarded the (hip with much apparent wonder ; and, from their various antic geftures, we h-.d great reafon to fuppofe that they had never before feen fuch an objeifl. They appeared to be of the fame race as the Papua people, woolly-headed, perfectly black, and with the features of the African negroes ; but in their forms ftout and athletic. They held long fpears in their hands, pouited with bone^ which they, from time to time, brandlfhed at us. Their canoes were of a peculiar, and very curious conftrudlion; — they wcFe very narrow and long, and, to keep them on a balance, a large out-rigger run out on one fide, with net- work between, made with ftrong cord, manufadured from tlie rind of the cocoa-nut. On this, which formed a kind of a ftage, were placed their arms, implements for fi(hing, &c. We wi(hed very much to fend boats on (hore, but as the (hip could not approach near enough to the land for the purpofe of pro- tecting them, on account of the (hoals, we thought it highly imprudent to expofe our men to any hazard. Towards •>-. .*. VOYAGES TO THE 1788. Towards noon, to our great joy, the wind frcflicned up from tlie North Fe»Rf.\Rv. ■yy^.f^^ when we bid adieu to the Tatee Iflos, and piufued our courfc to the Northward and the Eaftward, every league of which was become of the utmoA confequence. At funfet, the extremes of the Tatee liles bore from us Eaft by South, to Soutli Eaft by Eaft, dirtant five leagues : the tops of tlie trees juft appearing above the water. At this time the extremities of Wagicw bore from South Well: by South, to South Weft by Weft, diftant 10 leagues. Wc.iiicf';! S7 We now purfued our courfe till the 27th, with a favourable, but, in general, alight wind. It thundered and lightened with great violence, and the weatlier was extremely clofe and fultry. The tliermometer w.is, at this time, at SS'', and very often at 92°. At noon the latitude was 56 minutes North, and the longitude 136^ 35' Eaft of Greenwich.— Land, or rather trees, were dcfcricd from the maft-head, bcarinpf from Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft : when we were tolerably near them, the currents, ran very ftrong to the South South Weft : as wa were not able to weather the Northernmoft, we bore uptc the leeward of it, and there now appeared to be four fmall ifles, the largcft of which was not more than live leagues in circumference. We ranged within three miles of the fhore, when we obfervcd a large village lituated on the Ihore of the ifland, in the midft of a grove of cocoa-nut trees ; every other part appeared to be an entire forcft, without one interval of cultivation. We were very foon vifited by a great number of canoes, contain'ng, altogether, at leaft five hundred natives, all men. Each of thefe canoes held fix or fcven people, and were of the (iime conftrudion as thofe of the Sandwich Iflands. The natives alfo bore the appearance, and to our great aftonilhment, fpoke the language of the inhabitants of thofe ifles ; NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. and the refult of our obfervation is a conjefture, amounting almoft to a firm belief, that they arc of the fame race. They came along-Hde the fhip without ceremony and without arms, and fupplied us with a confiderable quantity of frefli gathered cocoa-nuts and coir line, which was repaid by hits of iron hoop, of about an inch in length. 79 1788. Pebruakt. When the piece of iron was held up to their attention, they were all feized with a kind of filent, but exprefUve joy, tliat cannot be defcribed : but the man who procured it, immediately began to caper and dr.nca round the deck, and laying down on his back, tuir.bLd and rolled aboift in fuch an extraordinary manner, that we really imagined he was fud- denly afFected by fome very fingular diforder, till he rofe up and kifled the bit of iron with thofe emotions of extravagant joy, which manifcftcd the extreme delight he felt at being in the pofleflion of what he efteemed fo great a treafure. His comrades, from an anxious curiofity to fee it, crowded round him ; but in a moment he had plunged liimfelf into the fea, and then turning his head towards us, and again kifling the bit of iron, he fwam haftily to the (hore. Several iron hoops were now or- dered to be cut up, and each of our vifitors was gratified with a bit of the precious metal, who all left us with reiterated exprelfions of the moil: grateful acknowledgement. Thefe iflanders are of a frank, amiable ancl confidential difpofition : and they found in return, that kind of reception from us, which they will not quickly forget. We obferved, however, in their canoes large mats, which, on enquiry, they informed us were ufed by them as coats of mail, and were capable of refifting the attack of a fpear ; indeed, {o clofe and ftrong is their texture, that at a very fmall diftance, they could fcarcely be penetrated by a ball from a piftol. It appeared, therefore, .-ind the refleaion is not of a picafing nature, that thefe amiable people knew f "'^1 >',' u .>«^ . .<■»— mn^..— '*" 8o VOYAGES TO THE 1788. knew the arts, and, ofcourfe, muft frequently feel the horrors of war ; KBKVAKT. jjj^j ji^jjj ^^^ ^^j ^£ jj^jjjg bcholds hls victims in the remoteft corners of the globe. This groupe of iflands was originally difcovered by Captain Carteret, iu his voyage roinid the world. He was pleafed to give them the name of the Freewill Ifles, from the frank and unreferved condud: of the inha- bitants. It may not, perhaps, be generally remembered, that one of them accompanied him in the Swallow: — He was called Tom Freewill, and ^cd in his pafTage to the Celebes. . The interval that had elapfcd, from the period of Captain Carteret's vifit to thefe iflands, to the time of our appearance before them, occu- pied fo coufiderable a fpacc, that this young man's departure witli him, might very naturally be fuppofed to have been forgotten by his countrymen. But, on tlie contrary, feveral of the natives pointed to the Ihip, and then tofea, and by other fignificant geftures gave us tolinder- ftand, that one of them had been carried away. As we were well ac- . quainted with the circumftancc from Captain Carteret's journal, we, in return, informed them that their fugitive countryman was no more: when they all entered into an immediate conference, and then renewed their communications, with an air of perfe£l indifference. At leafl: there did not appear to be any one among them who, as a friend ov relation, exprefled the leaft concern for poor Tom Freewill's fate ! We now refumed our courfe to the North Eaft, with a gentle gale from the Weft North Weft. On palfing to the Northward of the iflands, we obferved that they were connected by very dangerous reefs of rocks, which extended three or four miles in every direction. At funfet, I the \\ <*-.-,-.. ■u I*'. m^- : i \i: 0^ Al^ i n i'v Mi^• 4 #1 1; -iff- /f-W"'- s ; V? 'II f 'h ^ :■ i ^ r" fei, tt.'^siflK* fiW t-vi 1 J.** • ' - #-?».■•■ ;' "1 ''..f* •»«■!•.*. .(', S»o lii'id tli3C the gci:[ o<" •- -^'fv iich'!'?': Ill- viriM -.-. ii> t'l, rfp-,(.tS' 'r ■ Ti: #■■ '• nginally d^ilcavcwd by Captain Carteret, >'W. I fe W.1* p'l«sre(i to i?j v-o thci3n thirnSiKke of. ,fc:f|!« i.xembentl, t;h*t H :• *' .^ . nulii^ersiice. At lean y ' fcrno FreeviiW's tatc I , On pafiirif to rfciv iN^^r+hwiim _ af rjut ji' foui jw2te* a» every U#»«<^^.;^. At foofeti ■*'^ i^^t^gAJl—^ .^^, ^ \^. S I i '4 \h f\ ,< V( if ¥m' I -f •'^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 8i the body of the iflands bore North North Weft, at the diftance of four 1 788. , , February, leagues. : r . The weather on the 28th became fqually ; the whid veering conti- Timrfday >« nually from North to North Eaft, fo that we feldom made good our courfe better than Eaft, or Eaft by South. At noon the latitude was 0° 55', the winds light, with heavy fqualls of rain, and much *■ ider and lightning. On the 29th in the morning, as we were ftanding to the North, with Friday 29 a light air from the South Eaft, land was difcovered from the maft-head; as we ranged up with it, we found it to be the Freewill Ifles. This was a circumftance which we could noteafily reconcile ; and as the iflands in this ocean bear a ftrong refemblance to each other, we, at firft, thought that we muft be miftaken ; but the point was foon fettled by the arrival of many of our late friends, who came paddling through the reefs to bring us a prefent of cocoa-nuts, for which, they were with fbme dif- ficulty perfuaded to take any tiling in return. One man, in particular, held up a bit of iron which he had received from us but two days be- fore, as a token that he remembered his benefactors. mi vl ■11 li ^ "II, At noon the latitude was i° 7' North ; and, by a medium of the fe- veral diftances of the fun and moon, the longitude was 137" 10' Eaft. The body of Freewill Ifles now bore South Eaft half Eaft, at the dif- tance of four leagues ; which leaves them in the latitude of 0° 56' North of the Line, and in the longitude of 137° Eaft of Greenwich. »i '■' The currents muft on the 28th have fwept us bodily to leeward ; but, as we imagined, not with fo much force as to occafion our falling in again with thefe iflands;— on the contrary, we found that, on % ' ftanding 1788. March. Saturday 1 VO YAG E S TO THE' ftanding to the North, for the laft twenty-four hours, though we were Aeeiitig Eafl, our courfe was not much better than South, a little Eafterly. We did not lofe fight of thefe iflnnds till the firf> of March ; when, at noon, our latitude was i° 40' Nortli ; the wind, as ufual, veering from North Eaft, to Eaft North Eaft. The wciiiirr was gloomy, unfettled, and very fultry. At times, we had licavy fqualls of rain, which proved very unwholelbme for the crew, from conftant damps, a clofc atmofphere, and wet cloaths. To tliefe unpleafant circumftances may be added, our (low progrefs to the North, which fo afFefted their fpirits, and of courfe relaxed their activity, that all the attention and care of the officers were requ^Hte, to check the progrefs of fuch an alarming evil. '/ J CHAP. > « NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i CHAP. VII. 83 1788. Makck. Extreme Heat of the IVeather.'^Very tempeJluoHS. — Spring the Foremajf.^- Lofs of fame of the Cattle. — Lofe all the Goats. —DeJiruQion of many of the Plants intended for the Sandwich IJles.—^eafons for pointing the ShifsCourfe to the North Wejl^ tSc^Mode of vidiualling the Crew. Occupations on Board. — Intention of Building a Feffel of fifty Tons in King George* s Sound. — Carpenters complete her Moulds and Model.— Chinefe Carpenters ignorant ef Ship-building. — Great Burthen of the Chimfe funks. — Party feleSled to remain in King George's Sound. — Experience the 'tail of a Tiffoon.'— Change of the Monfoons. '^'terrible EffeSls of TiJoonSf in the Chinefe Seas and northern Pacific Ocean. /^N the 2d of March, the longitude of the (hip, by a medium of Sunday t ^-^ feveral diftances of the fun and moon, was 1 36° 27' Eaft of Green- wich, and the latitude 2° 52' North. At this time, the variation of the compafs was 2" 30' Eaft, and the quickfilver in the thermometer was at 86, and often at 90, fo that we fufFered very mucli from the extremity of the heat. -^^%A I The currents very feldom allowed us to make our courfe better than by South Eaft ; and hitherto there appeared no probability of being able to weather New Guinea. We had, indeed, conquered the North Cape ; but there remained New Ireland, New Hanover, and many different groupes and clufters of iflands, to the Northward of the Line, and many de- grees to the Eaftward of our fituation. If we had purfued our courfe, we h 2 tnufJt li V 84 .t 1788. VOYAGES TO THE muft have determined either to proceed through Dampier's Straits, or thofc difcovered by Captain Carteret, which divide New Britain from New Hanover ; but if both thefc paflages were rejected, there was no alternative left but to ftand to the Northward and Weft ward ; and to en- deavour to obtain as much of the former as would permit us to tack and weather all. On a due confideratioii of our circumftances and fituation* the laft was preferred ; the (hip thcTcfore was tacked, and flood to the North Weft, with the wind at NortliEaft,— a pomt the moft diftrefTuig to lis of the whole compafs. ' 1 1 ^ The ftock of frefti provifions we received at Samboingan was fufficient to laft us till this time ; a circumftance which was attended with the two- fold advantage of faving the fait provifions, and conducing to the health of the crew. A plentiful allowance of water was continued, as the beft prefervativc againft the fcurvy ; and, if a diminution of this article (hould be requifite in any part of the paflage, we naturally determined it ftiould take place in the colder latitudes, as, at prefent, an extreme and clofe heat required every liquid aid to jpreferve health, by fuftaining per- fpi ration. Monday 3 On the 3d, the weather became extremely tempeftuous. We had con- tinual fqualls from the North Baft, accompanied by deluges of rain, which very frequently obliged us to fliorten fail. Our courfe was feldom better than North Weft, though we fometimes were enabled to make a tack or two to the Eaft South Eaft and Eaft, when the fquall was favour- able. In this fituation, at noon, we found the foremaft dangeroufly fprung below the hounds ; every exertion therefore was required to fecure it, as a very heavy fea occafioned the (hip to pitch exceedingly. The top*mail and top'gallant-niaft were accordingly got down on deck, and the f^ <■ M NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. the fiiils unbent ; ftages were alfo prepared round the head of the maft, 1788. and the carpenters were immediately employed in preparing fi(hcs. Ma»cm. This misfortune was accompanied with fevcral others of a very morti- fy ing nature. The late bad weather and rolUng of the (hip, had deftroyed fume of the cattle and many of the plants, in particular a fine orange- tree, in full bloom; and half of the cinnamon-trees which we had re- ceived at Samboingan. There, however, yet remained alive one bull and a cow, and one cow calf; but thr goats were all killed in one day by a Cudden roll of the Ihip. Of the plants we ftill poflcfl'ed a lime and an orange-tree, in full vigour, 'vith fix cinnamon, and feveral fmaller plants of various kinds. On the 4tli, at noon, the latitude, by double altitudes, was j'o' North ; TiirfJay + and the longitude, deduced from the laft obfervatlon of the fun and moon, 137° 59' Eaft of Greenwich. The wind blew from the North Eaft, and we purfued our courfe ta the Eaft South Eaft. The weather was dark and tcmpeftuous, with heavy fqualls of wind and rain, which raifed a confufed fea. It was not till the 5th, that the maft was fecured, the filhing of which WednefUay 5 was a bufinefs of no common difficulty ; and, after all, we were not without the moft anxious apprehenfions that it would not ftand agamft the blowing and ftormy weather we cxpeifled to meet to the Northward of the tropical latitudes. Till the 1 2th we continued to embrace any favourable moments of the Wednefdayu wind. Whenever it veered to the Eaft North Eaft, we tacked and ftood to the Northward and Weftward ; and, if it veered to the North, our courfe was bent to the Eaftward. It feldom, however, permitted our ftandiu^ 86 VOY'AGES TO THE i 1788. ftandiuglong on either tack; for it generally blew very ftrong, with M^lkJ'7 lieavy fqualls of rain. Our latitude, at noon, was therefore but j"" 15' North, and the longitude 144° 25' Eaft; and on the 17th, we had ad- vaiKcd no further tlian 3° 25' North, and 146" 30' Eaft. Such was out tedious progrefs, which, together with a continuance of the moft un- pleafaut and unwholefome weather, tended, more or lefs, to difpirit every one on board. But this was not all ; the continual damps, proceed- ing from the frequent rains, and the people being, from the fame cir- cumftance, fo often, as well as fo long in wet cloathing, together with moift decks, awakened our apprehcnfions to encreafing fymptoms of the Icurvy. Ja this fituation, we doubted very much whether we (hould be aljle to weather the iflands of New Ireland or New Hanover, which bore off us not only Eaft South Eaft, but many degrees to the Eaft- ward. We had worked into our prefent pofition immediately in the wind's eve. t>' ■» I! 5 Some of the difficulties which would probably attend the purfuing of our firft track, have already been mentioned ; nor were we to hope for a change from the fun's near approach to the equinoftial. Tedious calms, attended with heavy rains, were naturally to be expected with ^ vertical fun. A fmall portion of our voyage was yet performed, and an immenfe track yet lay before us, to reach to the i6oth degree of longi- t-ude, when we muft neceffarily crofs the Line. According to the manner in which we had proceeded, we ftiould not, in all probability, gain that objeft before the loth of April ;— on the other hand, if we fteered to the North Weft, we had grounds for expedling a change of wind in our favour, if not the monfoon, by the ift of April : — it was, therefore, again refolved to weather the Philippines, and point our courfe fteadily to the North Weft. With ':ri' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. With plenty of water, each man was allowed half a pint of fpirits in the courfeof the day, two-thirdaof which were mixed with water, and the re- mainder, at this time, ferved in its raw ftate, which often proved a falutary and cheering cordial in the rainy weather. The provifions were ordered in the beft manner we could conceive to preferve health, or, at leaft, to check the progrefs of difeafe. — In the morning and evening tea and fugar were ferved out to the crew ; — they had abundance of rice, peas, and barky, which, with flour and fruit, were ferved with every poflible va- riety th y would adroit. The pork and beef were always well fteeped, and the conflnnt ufe of vinegar was called in aid to contribute its fhzm towards correcting the bad efFe£ls of falted provilions. tf 1788. MARCJi. We kept ftanding on to the North Wcflr, and nothing material hap- Sunday 30, pened, bet wet i the laft and the prefent date. The weather was now, in- deed Leci mc extremely pleafant, and the heavy fqualls of wind and rain which had fo continually diftreflcd us, were, for the prefent, entirely diflipated. At noon the latitude was 21* 2' North, and the longitude 139° 48' Eaft ; the variation of the compafs 4" 34' Eaft. During this run we every day faw large flocks of birds, fomc of which we perceived to be of that Ipecies which never ily tar irom land. We embraced the opportunity which was afforded us by the prefent favourable weather, to overhaul our fails, and prcpaic for the tempeftu- ous weather we had every rtafoii to expcd in oiu progrefs to the North, cfpecially near Japan. Two co npleat new iiiits or fails were prepared,, new roped, lined and middle ditched ;. all the old fails were, at the fame time, put in a tolerable flate. The coopers, armourers, and other artifans were always properly em- ployed, either in the immediate fervice of the fliip, or according to 1. their , I 18 - VOYAGES TO THE 1788. their (kill, In preparing articles of trade for the American market. — March. ip^^ Chinefe armourers were very Ingenious, and worked with fuch a degree of facility that we preferred them to thofe of Europe. The in- ftruments they employ in their work are extremely fimple, and they very fliortly accompllfli any defign that is placed before them. , The carpenters were alfo at work in preparing the moulds and model for a floop of fifty tons that was defigned to be built Immediately on our arrival In King Gcorge*s Sound, as fuch a veffel would be of the '^Jtmoft utility, not only in coUefting furs, but in explorlrg the coaft. Our head carpenter was a young man of much ingenuity and pro- feffional fklll, who had ferved his time in London ; but the Chinefe artifi- cers in this branch had not the leaft Idea of our mode of naval architec- ture. The veflels of their nation which navigate the China and adjacent feas, are of a conftrudion peculiar to them. In veffels of a thoufand tons burthen not a particle of Iron Is ufed ; their very anchors arc formed of wood, and their enormous fails made of matting. Yet thcfo floating bodies of timber are able to encounter any tempeftuous weather, hold a remarkable good wind, fail well, and are worked with fuch faci- lity and care as to call forth the aftonlfliment of European fiilors. It was, therefore, a matter of fome difficulty to turn the profehional Ikill of our Chinefe carpenters to a mode of application (b entirely difi^ercnt from their own habitual experience and practice. A party was fele£led from the crew who were to be left on fliore with the artificers, to be employed In building the vcffcl. This arrangement was made at fuch an early period. In order that the people might be fully prepared, immediately on our arrival In the Sound, to begin their intended operations. It Is true that we had no one article in rcadinefs for the • purpofe ; NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 89 purpofe; our timber was (landing in the forefts of America, the iron 1788. work was, as yet, in rough bars on board, and the cordage which was to be formed into ropes, was yet a cable. Neverthelefs, encouraged by that fpirlt of ardent hope which animates man to oppofe the difficulties of life, and invigorates life itfelf, we looked forward with a kind of cer- tain expcftation that our purpofe would be efFefted, and that the veffel in contemplation would be actually launched fome time in the month ofOftober. On the iftof April at noon, the latitude was 2Z° 26' North, and the Tuefday 4 longitude 139° 38' Fiaft. The weather f emcd to have acquired a fettled gloom, the clouds were uncommonly black and heavy, and, throughout the day, there was much thunder, and lightning. Numerous flocks of birds pafl'cd us from tlie windward, making loud noifes in their paiTage, as if apprehenfive of bad weather. We alfo pafled fome rock-weed, which was a fign of being at no very great didance from land." On the 2d, the thunder and hghtning encreafed, without being ac- Wednefday o companied with any confiderable degree of wind. The fea, neverthe- lefs, was in an unufual commotion, and the (hip pitched fo heavy, that the head-rails were Carried away, and fome other injuries fuftaincd.— Towards noon it became fqually, and we experienced feveral puffs of wind from every point of the compafs, which, with the encreafing darknefs, left us no doubt of the approach of a very violent ftorm. The top-gallant yards and marts were got down on deck, — the main-fail furled,— the top-fails clofe reefed, and the mizen balanced. All the fails were handed, except the main top-fail, which it was judged prudent to keep abroad : in this fituation we waited the coming of the tempeft ; nor 4;d it difappoint our expeftations. At two P. M. the wind .; M fliiftcd 1788* VOYAGESTOTHE (hlfted to the South, and began to blo^;^ (Irong in Tqualls: the (hip's head was kept to the North Eaft ; it thundered and lightened with great violence, and at half part three an heavy fquall came from the South Eaft, inftantly followed by another from the South Weft, both of which blew, for a ftioit time, with alternate and incredible fury; the latter, however, prevailed, and continued blowing from the South Weft for near an hour. Indeed, the meeting of thefe two fqualls to leeward of us, was tremendous, and the fea was carried to fuch an height as to keep the horizon in a continual foam. Happily for us, we experienced only the tail of this tuffbon or whirlwind ; but, as it was, we expedled every mo- ment to have the mafts ftiattered to pieces ; the main top-fail having been fwept away, and frittered to threads. > a The fea foon rofe to fuch an alarming height, that it became neceflary to fet the fore- fail and feud before tlie ftorm. In order to preferve the (hip, which plov/ed her way with furprifing fwiftnefs. It now blew from the South Eaft with a prodigious fea, before which we kept fteer- ing. Thus we were fcudding along, when, to the leeward of us, we perceived the water to rife many feet above the level of the fea In circles, which formed a beautiful but awful fight; fb that wo were obliged to perform the very unpleafant, ai>d, indeed, rather dangerous operation, of heaving to in fuch a high fea, to avoid running into the dreadful vortex before us, which continued, as It were, to fweep the horizon till five o'clock ; when this alarming whirlwind fubfided, and fettled in an heavy gale from the South Weft, before whicli we fcudded to the North Eaft. To thofe who have read Kempfer's Hlftory of Japan, the violence of this tufFoon will not be confidered as a clrcumftance that borders on 5 phaeno- ,»'**^ Tym 94 1788. April. V O Y A G E S T O T H E In this fituation, land was feen bearing Eaft 'North Eaft, diftant eight leagues, immediately in the wind's eye, which prevented us from approaching it. Our latitude at noon was 24° 44' North, and longitude, deduced from our lafl lunar obfervations, 145" 41' Eaft of Greenwich. We regretted very much that we were not able to approach this land, as we 'knew of none in this part of the Northern Pacific Ocean. As we were fleering to the North Weft, we foou entirely loft fight of it. , Si v.- Saturday J On the 5th, the wind Shifted to the South Eaft, which enabled us to fteer to the North Eaft, when at two o'clock iii the afternoon we thought land was vifible to the Eaft South Eaft ; but the weather was fo extremely hazy, that it could not be afcertained whether it was land or a fog-bank. At three, however, land was feen in the North Eaft right a-head, but the weather continued to be fothick and foggy, that tlie dircdlion in which it extended could not be difccrned. At half paft four, we were abreaft of it, at the diftance of five or fix miles, when it ap- peared to be an idand, but of no great extent. It now rained very hard, and the atmofphere remained fo hazy, that our obfervations of the land were rather imperfect. It however appeared to be one of thofe barren ifles fo frequently found in thefe feas. — Its length might be fif- teen or fixtcen miks from North to South ; the (hore feemed to be inaccefllble to boats, from a great furf beating againft the rocks, which terminated abruptly in the fea. The interior p^rts of the country ap- peared to be iiigh, and a few folltary trees were very fparingly (cattcrdd on their declivities. We failed along the ftiores of this ifland till fix o'clock, when another ifland opened to our view, which was feparated from the former by a channel of three or four leagues. It now blew very ftrong, with rain, and fo thick a fog, that we could fee no diftance a-head. M Though .» ^ NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. Though the gale was favourable, yet, from the appearance of the weather, it was thought prudent to fliorten fail, and remain under fuch as would enable U3 to haul to the wind on either tack. The utmoft vigilance and attention wps employed to guard as much as poHibleagainft any danger, and we failed, as ufual, all night with the courfes hauled up in the brails. Thefe ifles, of which we could not difcern the number, were named Grampus Ifles, from feeing a large grampus fpouting up water clofe to the fliore, which is a very uncommon fight in thole fcas. The night of the 5th, was very tempefluous, with couftant rain ; but to confole us for thefe inconveniences, we had a fair gale, with which we made great way to the North Eaft. 9$ 1788. On the 6th, the wind fliifted to the North Weft, which brought xis Smuhyt clear weather, and blew a fteady gale. At noon the latitude was 27° 30' North, and the longitude 148" 37' Eaft. At this time the varLntion of the compafs wab 3" 20' Eaft. Our progrefs to the North now became very rapid, and we experienced a very fudden tranfition from heat to cold. Having juft left a climate where the heats had been intenfe and oppreflivc, it was very natural the aftive operations of cold (hould be very fenlibly felt by the whole crew. This circumftance liowever, enabled us to reduce the allowance of water from a gallon to five pints per man, without any inconvenience what- ever arifing from fuch an alteratioiK r Li The favourable gale at North Weft continued till the eighth at noon. Tuefday s The latitude then was 28° 58' North, and the longitude 154" 19' Eaft. — Our principal objed was to get to the North as faft as poffible, in order to benefit by the ftrong Wefterly winds, as well as to run down our • longitude -VOYAGES TO THE h ! Ill m 1788. longitude in an high latitude. This North Weft gale continued to ua the fliarp piercinglcold which has been already mentioned. Wfdiirfjay , The ncxt day we paiTed by a confiderable quantity of rock«wecd, which we imagined tr bu but lately broken ofF, and for feveral days we had {een great numbers of birJs. We were now confiderably to the Northward of the fcvcral fmall iflands fcattered either within or about thetropic, in the Northern Pacific Ocean. We could not, therefore, form any probable conjedlure from whence this weed came, and whither the birds retired at night, as they regularly left us about funfet, and took their flight to the Eaft. About nine o'clock in the morning, a fail was defcried from the maft- head, and, in about half an hour a large (hip was feen from the deck. She appeared to be under an extraordinary croud of fail, and exhibited a very , lingular figure, for not one of us, even with the afliftance of glafTes, could make out which way (he was (landing. The fight of a (hip in thofe feas was fuch an unufual circumftance, that for fome time conjecture was at a lofs concerning it. At length, however, it was determined to be a galleon, bound to China from New Spain, and by fome cafualty driven thus far to the Northward ; though the track of thofe (hips to Manilla, is gene- rally between the parallels of 13° and 14° North latitude. In confequence of this opinion, feveral letters were written to inform our friends in China of our fafety, and the progrefs we had made in tlie voyage. This extra- ordinary delufion, for it was no more, continued till we were within two leagues of the objeft; when, on viewing it with aglafs, it was difcovered to be an huge rock ftanding alone amid the waters. — The firft among us who became fenfible of the deception remained filent, and diverted themfelves with the ftrange conjectures and humorous obfervations of the i\ •••. ^t^ %. . I • i' W If) j^^^^Ht tIHh ■O^^^H^^B p ' ^^^I^R: > f _ yi'/.' f'l/, . ll-/lf,l A//,////v ,; , ',11/ I'lr i €' ^ fi: nitUlJl.i /fll./'ll, ,^;)o /,y.'l\;,//^r.y-,l;/ /i,;;>,/iy/,V '-i^isii.j.'- «; i(t> lu- wan 1 7*'^, , Art." « "'l(r»l- t. I •1 l». '' I'oih / •f«|i. a ' . I . which fltHkd aJriM* ^j if, l» '■'I ■■'a , 'Ill piccr. (ff\ feasi^t'' «b^ 'f)rVir',M.?'-- -"i-.Tift! : aft4 'J? 1> J i i M ■"•*>» & ■j.... .; Ku A^ iW »« /ll«f^ <» V /Ji*^! .>'tt«*i"M>';-'- 'rt^' i'l -.h W .1 .it ':>, \.. . Hlf i''\ ;'! •! ■'■). ,„>;;|aai. MSih' ^:e\'.\.i'.-M'i • .* .■»«» »^X ■^^h '»!> .^^...^•M'''-'^>' .r^t«.,'^.4tnV^'.':*# ,»<- .^v^sf^1 >■'«« ,1^^' V-'- .^i'ijp y. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. the Tailors, one of whom was fo certain of its being a (hip, that he was convinced he faw her colours. Its appearance did, indeed, very ftrongly refemble a firft-rate man of war, under a croud of fail ; and fuch was its fhape, that, at a certain diftance, it held forth to the eye the form of every particular fail belonging to a fliip. As we ranged up with this rock, our furprife was proportionably augmented, and the failors were more than difpofed to believe that fome fupernatural power had fuddeiily transformed it into its prefent fhape. It obtained the name of Lot's JVife^ and is one of the mod wonderful objedls, taken in all its circum- fiances, which I ever beheld. By noon we were abreaft of it; when it bore Eafl North Eafl four miles. The latitude was 29° 50' North, and the longitude 142° 23' Eaft of Greenwich. The waves broke againft its rugged front with a fury proportioned to the immenfe diflance they had to roll before they were interrupted by it. It rofe almoft perpendicular to the htiglit, according to the tables, of near three hundred and fifty feet. A fmall black rock appeared juft above the water, at about forty or fifty yards from its Weflern edge. There was a cavern on its South Eafl- ern fide, into which the waters rolled with an awful and tremen- dous noife. In regarding this flupendous rock, which flood alone in an immenfe ocean, we could not but confider it as an obje£l which had been able to refift one of thcf'^ gre^T convulfions of nature that change the very form of thole parts ci be g'lbc which they are permitted to defblatc. ' s^ V 1788. ArniL. um' '1* h'f}i aw This day, at noon, our latitude was 33' 18' North, and the longitude Saturday ,» i6i** Eaft, with a /leady gale from the Southward, We pafled by a great quantity of rock-weed, and faw feveral large flocks of birds. la the evening a piece of timber, which appeared to be the rafter of an houfe, J[Sf , and I' I m i I'ii- W if f§ . ; 1 h VOYAGES T O T H E 1788. a"d apiece of a canoe, were feen floating upon the water, and foon after April. ^ fpar, that appeared to have been newly cut. Thefe were certahi indications of land, and occaHoned, if pofltble, an added exertion of vigilance, as this part of the Pacific Ocean is -entirely unknown. In the evening of this day the weather became gloomy and overcaft, with every ufual appearance of an approaching ftorm. It blew ftrong Sunday 13 throughout the night, and on the following day, at noon, the gale was confiderably encreafed. The topgallant yards and mafts were accordingly got down on deck, and every other precaution taken to provide againft the bad weather that threatened us. Our apprehetifions were fhortly re- alized; for about four o'clock, it blew with fuch violence from the South, that we were obliged to clofe reef the topfails, and hand the mainfail. The wind was accompanied with fmall rain and thick wea- ther. We pafled by large quantities of weed; and the furface of the.fea was covered with a reddifh fpawn, that extended fevcral miles. It fooa after blew a perfeft ftorm; the topfails were therefore immediately handed, and we fcudded before it under a forefail, followed by a very heavy fea. — In this fituation, we were overtaken by a moft violent guft of wind, which made us apprchenfive of fome material damage. — But very fortunately the topfails had been handed in time, and, tlie forefail being now reefed, we continued to purfue our courfe. In this heavy guft the wind fliifted to the Weft, and raifed a very confufed lea, which broke on our decks, and endangered the boats ; but, in fhifting its point, Monday .4 the wind did not abate its violence, nor did at all fubfide till the 14th, when the latitude was 36° 20' North, and the longitude 167° Eaft. It was determined to run down our longitude, as much as poflible, iu the parallel of 40° North ; and, as it was an unknown track, we were not without the hope of meeting with land, previous to our gaining fight of 1 the ■ Ww i^ 1 mi (' L.l \ V' 99 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. the Continent of America, evident figns of which had been obferved by 1788. Captain Cook, as well as by us, in this latitude. — Indeed, from the va- *'^''»"" rious circumftances which have already been related, it is highly probable that there is land in this part of the Northern Pacific Ocean. The tempeftuous weather continued till the (7th, when the wind Timrfdayi? ' veered to Eaft South Eaft, and blew with augmented violence. It mode- rated, however, at noon, when the latitude was 38° 51' North, and the longitude 175° 10' Kaft. — Though advanced fo far North, we this day pafled a large turtle fleeping on the water, which being awakened by the noife of the fliip, immediately funk. Large flocks of birds ftill continued to frequent us, and the rock-weed became a common objcd. We now experienced a great degree of cold, and the morning and even- ing air, in particular, was uncommonly Iharp. The variation of the compafs was 9° 20' Eaft. Storm fucceeded ftorm till the 23d, when the weatlier broke, and Watncfdsyij the wind moderated. Thefe violent gales from the Northward and Weftward, not only brought with them a bithig cold, but alio fleet and fnow, which made confiderable depredations on our fVock. We felt however, the fatisfadion of having fair winds, principally from the South Weft, from which quarter it blew very hard ; but when it fliiftcd to the North Weft, it encreafed beyond the power of del'ciiption, with a 'i-rcat and mountainous fea. We had fortunately embraced ;i fn.vourable oppor- tunity of bending a new fuit of fails, as the old ones muil have been Shattered to pieces by the violence of thefe ftorms. The air was (harp, like that of bleak froft in England, which more frnfibly atledcd us from our long continuance in tropical climates. Indeed we were not without occafional fhowers of fnow and hall. Flocks of birds, and large ! I, ;, : «. '"1 '*iV 1" N quantities i«o VOYAGES TO THE h '^ 1 788. quantities of rock-weed, continued to encourage an anxious expeftatioii April of feeing land. On the 23d, at noon, we pafled the trunk of a large tree. Our lati- tude was 41° 35' North, and the longitude was 189° 25' Eafl: of Green- wich. We now began to draw nigh to the American (bore, which was a very dcfirablecircuniftancc, as, among other prelling reafons, the ftiip was become extremely light, Irom the great expenditure of provifioiis and water. Wc had, indeed, been of late extremely fortunate in our winds, but much more fo in the health of the crew, who felt no other incon- venience but what arofe from fo quick a tranfition from heat to cold. Thiirfdayj4 During thc night it blew ftrong from the Weft North Weft, with cold rain. On the morning of the 24th the wind backed round to the Southward and Eaftward, a certain prelude of blowing weather ; and at noon it blew fo hard as to oblige us to hand every fail ; and, till three in the afternoon, we fulfered as fierce a ftorm as we ever remembered to have feen, with a greater fea than we had hitherto experienced. There was alfo continual rain, and the cold did not abate its feverity. The rigging fufFcred confiderably, and the ftiip ftrained very much in her roll- ing ; nor were we without our apprehenfions for the crippled foremaft. But, amid this fevere and tempeftuous weather, we enjoyed the confo. latory refledlion that we were every moment approaching nearer to the deftined port. ' j' Friday 15 On the 25th the weather moderated, and the wind veered to the Weft North Weft. The latitude, at noon, was 43° North, and thc longitude by account, 196° 28' Eaft. It blew a ftrong gale from the Weft South Weft, with clear weather ; and we made good our courfe to the Eaft North i « (i- t » L .^ ji ii 1' » \ •--riii-y'tiTr'-"-'^ • «l NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. North Ea ft, running feWom lefs than fifty leagues a day. From the 1788. 23d we had experienced atontinual fucce/non of gales. We were occa- achil. fionally favoured with an hour or two of clear weather, which was always fucceeded by a return of ftorm ; fo that we were never able to fet more than a clofe-recfed topfail.— Our run was no lefs than 230 leagues in this fliort period. Indeed the weather not only continued to be cold and com- fortleCs, but was, at times, fo very cloudy, that we found no opportu- nity of taking any lunar obfervations, ui order to afcertain, with any degree of accuracy, tlic run of the (hip. ■ The fame weather continued, and we purfued our courfe without any WednefJay^c novelty of fituation or circumftance, till the 30th, when a fccond fpar pafled by, which from its appearance, and a notch that had been re- cently cut in one end of it, could not have been long in the water. — The birds had forlaken us in the beginning of the late tempeftuous weather, and we no loiter faw the floating rock-weed, which had, for lome time paft, been a daily objeiS. We had now twice croffed the tracks of the Rcfolution and the Dif- covery in thefc feas : that on their return from the Coaft of Japan to China, and their later track from Ooiiala(hka to the Sandwich Iflands. Captain Cook had formed fome flight conjedure of there being land between thefe tracks and the coaft of America, and our prelcnt courfe running diredly through that part of the fea, it is moft probable that we fliould have difcovered it, if there had been any fo contiguous to the American fhore. ^ .; ► :.;:' . ■ May. On our entrance into the month of May, the weather became not only Timrfday i moderate but pleafant : — the wind blew from the South, and we purfued 5 our iH .A 'J VOYAGES TO T U t CSM 1788. May. our cotirfe to the Eaftward. The latitude, at noon, was 46° 5' North, and the longitude, by a medium of feveral diflances of the fun and moon, only 212° 5' Eaft of Greenwich ; whereas, by account, we were in 221° 41' Eaft — This material difference muft have arifen from the variety of contrary currents we experienced in the lov/ latitudes, as well as thofe which may be fuppofcd to have ftt us to the Wcftward, on our tacking to the North. We had every reafon, therefore, toconje£lurethat 'We muft have approached the vicinity of Japan ; and that we accom- plilhed our puftiige to the North between the iflands of Ladrone and the New Carolines. The variation of the compafs we now found to be 21° 18' Eaft. SiinJay 4 The wind continued to be favourable, though it occallonally blew in ftrong fqualls. The latitude, at noon, was 48° 10' North; and the longi- tude, deduced from the laft obfervations, 223° 22' Eaft. In the begin- ning it became foggy, and blew from the South South Weft in heavy fqualls, which obliged us to heave to, for the firft time, under the reefed forefail. However, as it moderated in the morning, we bore up, and pur- fued our courfe to the Eaftward. >* ■ • < •' i' •'• y". " : ■yj -.•■ v » ■ Je^r W ^iifi': A?T Wedncfday 7 \\'q experienced a ftrong gale Hll the 7th, when, at noon, the latitude was 49° 28' North, and the longitude, by a medium of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, 228° 26' Eaft. , , , - ..-, ■ ^xy-fry;;} Timrfdays On this day, at noon, the latitude was 49° 28' North. n the evening we faw a fea-parrot, and paflld a piece of drift-wood. We had frequent fqualls of hail and fnow, but th.c weather was more moderate tlian we had known it for fome time. On V y NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 103 1788. May. Saturday i* On the loth, the latitude was 49° 32' ; and the longitude, by the me- dium of feveral fights, 230" 52' Eaft, and only 3° from King George's Sounds We kept running, during the night, under a prefs of fail, di- reflly in for the American coaft. The whole atmofphere was in a ftate of illumination, which we attributed to the reflexion of vaft mountains of fnow on the continent : nor were we miftaken ; for, on the morning of the I ith of May, the long-wi(hed for land of America appeared, bear- Sunday n ing Eaft by South, at the diftance of 13 leagues. It confifted of a ridge of mountains, whofe fummits were hid in the clouds. This land might be feen thirty leagues in clear weather. As we clofed in with it in the evening, the vapours cleared away from the tops of tlie mountains. At noon the latitude was, by double altitudes, 49° 33' North, ajid King' George's Sound bore nearly Eaft of us. We kept ftanding in for the land, and when within four leagues of it, the wind veered to the South Eaft by Eaft, which obliged us to tack andftand to fea, the wind blowing almoft immediately out of the Sound, which we now plainly difcerued. I A veflcl was now feen under the wrathcr land of the Sound bear- ing down to us; but as we were under a pixfs of i.iil, and night coming on, we could not fpeak to her, without much inconvenience ; but we neverthclefs knew her to be the Princefs Royal, of LiOndoii, on a trading voyage for the furs of America. The night of the i ith was a dreadful one ; fucli heavy gufts and fqualls of wind fucceeded each other, that we were prevented from carrying any fail. Thefe fqualls brougiit hail and fnow ahjiip; vviththtm; and, to- wards midnight, it blew ;i perfed ftorm. When the morning broke, we had loft fight of land, and the fliiphad ftrained fo much, that wo had fix feet water in the hold, with two pumps difabkd ; nor did this gale mo- derate Ri '! m ... \ 'I Wit ^ M *<•*•"•■" '." lUt;; T-- L )m 104 1788, May. VOYAGE* TO THE derate till the 1 2th at noon, when the (hip wa» wore, and we ftood in for the land, bailing the water from the hpU, which was rather encreafing on us. The latitude was 49° 26' North. We therefore kept fVanding in for the land till feven o'clock in the evening, when that comfortable ob- jrdl was again very clearly ditcerned : but we had another mortification to fuffer, for we found that the late ftorm had blown us to leeward of the Sound. We were therefore under the provoking ncceffity of tacking once more, and (landing out to fea, with the wind at North North Weft ; the Sound bearing North Eaft, at the diftancc of feven leagues. The night of the 1 2th was (6 tempcftuou?, that we were obliged to lay to under the reefid forcfail, all the crew being employed in bailing the water out of the hold; as it was not in our power to refit the pumps for immediate fervice. ^¥ Tuefdayij On the moming of the 13th the wind veered to the South by Eaft, blowing as hard as ever, with heavy rain, when the ftiip was wore, and her head pointed in for the land. About eight it moderated, when fail was immediately made, and, by ten o'clock, we happily anchored in Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound, abreaft of the village of Nootka, in four fathoms water, and within an hundred yards of the ftiore, after a paflage of three mouths and twenty-three days from China.—— The reader who has accompanied us through our long, difficult, and harafled voyage, will eafily conceive the grateful joy we experienced on our arrival in fafety at the harbour which we had fought with fuch continued toil, and through fuch various dangers. It cannot be thought improper, as I truft it will not prove altogether ufelefs, to offer fuch obfervations as occurred to me on the pafTage firom China to the North Weft Coaft of America. It '\ %'. .,,-'.# ^ ' -■ •-■ imm M^katllMMtMNMi i > w»iiii III 1 4 111 m i^>g>- rAff Vff»VJ.»,,* .i.irti*,J ■*•« «fV«tM«,j »^».. * >- .»• ^H^ ■J --- wiT-til .^^ L»*.^f^- ?A. 5»r^ ■ ..*-■'«*' r-2W,. f.Jfe. 1 fl; !' ■>/'■••> .Ml./ if- ff „>' -i-;i,jai — '^-^^itrife..'*'- \ 1' I ,\ ■ , ■ . V O T f! » sltrrirtc till tiie llrtnatnoon, whc-ri titc ilup \va» ivo*-' , .nil *A4---»n n.-.' Hittl.uJ, h\liiii^ tb.« uiav from !h«; 'kjW, ^vhkh w.is.rruii. - .. . ..WMig fmuS' T^i" ■-'■• ' ^^ » 40' ;A' V'^ >< We tlurcfore kept ftantJifigm l«»r che 1.1' '^ 1I-. '■ , whin t\u\t cwntb, fable *S>w feiSl Wjtr: ■• , iit!) i.!i - '.tail .v;»otlit;t mortificatioin PO-. fiiiifai.. v-i th«t the ' . ! b.'.fwn u» id leeward of.thC' 1?«A«»df W-' :«\-r<* ' rf under tho p^:'•(^l'>^^l|• tttfcsffiry of trt king onw iww*. v!n*rti«>«*, ttiaf we rrnvt ablij»ed to lay itew?; jH flie crew beiitf" emj'byctl ia fa«{iHiijj fh* ^patw 1.1^ • -.w ; aj. if was t^ Jw mir ■ pc«rcr to refit the pu'.nps f^-r ''■ ■ irn mediate ic; vice. ;0» ;,'•• -.v.;;.|;> u ._,.;. :., ...:... -c-' .. ; ;.' ^ttth -by Knil", M'jiwiuj; XV hard *i» ever,- wltii heavy rata, wlicu tiis fhip wa« ttorc. aiJtl 5icrH'-2d po'ttttfd in for .ths land. Abn^it elgh? i' aiodcrated, wlit^n fail Mm* imme»5?rfftU'. m446, 1114 'by t?*' **«ltfuM'(C i trurt it Htii I'.-x prove iltogcth'sr f'. .;tions as cwrcurrcd to ms m» jIu: patlkgs tVom Chiuap ^ t|i* J^?«rfl3. W^ Coad of Awwksa. m A\ a?,^ost li, J\ I f i\i 4 M ■ / i'l /h/'/,jlJ A,,.,;,. f ''" ''"IB^' •^ I ..*.; IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 m m |25 |2j2 12.0 11.25 i 1.4 IJ£ HI.4 I 1.6 6" -^ V FhotograiM: ScMices CorpQratiQn 23 \MIST MAM STRHT WltSTM,N.Y. 14SM (7l«)t72-4S03 4^ ♦* 4" i I t,ii ,-f Mf. f.iij,/ 1 t. '.',•//,,. /,•///.■,/ hi/-'ijl:/ Airi'if //J.' /i .' W.i.'lti-.yii.., /i,-f.i./„ A : " "-^»*»-- ^•'i- .; .1X_ /^r\ f.t/i,/ /// /,/ V , ■///, /,'.///,-,/ ;.■, /i .' II :„V, ,■.!•>,.„ /J.v.. .//,'.'. 1.. I ' V \ I if \> f '. 'l \ m ■1 ^1 } f ; ;' • m t > ^ .-^■.ifc. ...^- iiw -TMtr. _r— X NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. It would not be prudent for (hips bound to America, to purfue our •route, if they are not ready for fea by the middle of November, or the loth of December at fartheft. The long and heavy delay we met with, after leaving Samboingan, is the beft proof of the difficulties we found in getting to the Eaftward at this period of our voyage ; when the currents alfo run more rapid, and the feafon is more tem- peftuous, as we have reafou to believe, than in the months of No- vember and December, loj; 1788. M*r. It had been our intention, at one time, to perform this voyage by failing round New Holland, and ftretching fufficiently to the Eaft, to fetch the Sandwich Iflands previous to our making the coaft of America; or we had the choice of pulhing through Endeavour Straits, and perform- ing the fame point ; but this latter courfe was reje«£ted on account of the dangerous archipelago of iflands fcattered to the Eaftward of thofe (traits; and the former was abandoned from the circuity of its navigation, which would demand a much longer time than we could fpare : it was accordingly conjeftured, that if a paiTage was attempted through the Sooloo Archipelago, then ftretching to the Eaftward, to weather New Guinea, New Ireland, and New Hanover, — and again tacking to the Northward, to obtain the Wefterly winds, that we (hould have a quick and eafy paflage opened to America. '4 n The event proved that we had judged rightly in adopting the laft ;— but, in my opinion, a ftill cafier and much better paflage is now opened to America ; and it is fubmitted whether, in future, it would not be preferable for (hips bound there, to effe£l their way by the palTage be- tween Luconia and Formofa. This opinion is not the fanciful refult of vague conjefture, but has, as I conceive, fomewhat of an experimen- tal foundation on the following circumftances :— . j ^, - : O Ou 11. t I0& 1788. May. '-'' VOYAGES TO THE On our arrival with the Felice in China, in the autamn of 1788, the agent of the merchants in England, and the agent of the merchants in India, formed an union of intereils, and aflbciated themfelves under a joint ftock, to carry on the fur trade of America. They accordingly equipped a fhip called the Argonaut, under the dire£tion of Mr. Colnet, a lieutenant in his Maje(ly*s navy, and who had commanded in the years 1787 and 1788, the (hip Prince of Wales of London, belonging to the merchants trading to America. This (hip had performed her voyage to the coaft, and returned to China with a valuable cargo of furs in 1788, and from thence to England, laden with teas on account of the Eaft India Company. Mr. Colnet quitted the Prince of Wales in China, to command the Argonaut, and take charge of the alTociated merchants property on the coaft of America. Of his nautical abilities I fhall only obfcrve, that they are fuch as to receive no addition to their reputation from any teftimony of mine : he accordingly prepared the Argonaut for Tea, and the Princefs Royal of London, a vefTel belonging to the fame commercial fociety. *■ ^ . r >t , Thefe (hips were not ready for fea till the 17th of April, 1789; when, on comparing the tracks of the Felice and the Iphigenia, and the time thty met the Monfoon or Wefterly winds in the Northern Pacific Ocean, it was thouglit that tlie parage to America might be effected between Luconia and Formo(a, with greater eafe and expedition than by purfuing the track by Magindanao. The Princefs Royal therefore failed in February, and did not reach the coaft of America in lefs than (ixteen weeks : but the tardinefs of her voyage arofe from her being a very heavy failer, and not copper- bottomed. — Whereas the Argonaut, who was both flieathed with copper and a prime failer, left China the 26th of April, 1 789, and arrived in I ». King \V FV^ ^1 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 107 King George's Sound the 3d of July following; which was a paflage 1^88. that exceeded our moft fanguine expeftations. m*** The future navigator from China to America, is here prefcnted with four different tracks of that voyage. But if it Ihould be my lot to be again engaged in it, I fliould leave China early in the month of March, and endeavour to make a pafTage between Luconia and Formofa, in order to gain the Pacific Ocean, where, at that feafon, variable winds might be expe£led to the Northward of 20° ; and when the violence of the North Eafl Monfoon would alfo be much abated in the China feas. Indeed in the month of April, there would be almoft a certainty of meeting the South Weft Monfoon or Wefterly winds in the latitude of 25° or 30° North, which prevail there, and blew us home to the American fliore. On leaving Canton, great care fhould be taken to work fome diftance up the coaft of China, between the Lema Ifles, and as high as Pedro Blanco, or the White Rock, before the China fea is croffed for Formofa : but no paifage, I think, (hould be attempted between the rocks of Ville Rete and the South-end of Formofa, except during the day, in clear weather, and with the appearance of a free channel. O2 CHAP. I' ! 108 [:v 'i'i i\t '1 17S8. Mat, VOTAGESTO THE N . \ V c II A P. IX. u.y<.uy i \\ He commodious Situation of Friendly Cove^ in King George's Sounds Great Numbers of the Natives ajemble to view the Ship.— 'the Joy of Comekela on his Arrival f tsc.^Hannapa^ a Chief comes tn hoards with fame Cir- cumjlances of his Vifit 'the Natives bring Supplies of Fi/h. — Comekela prepares to go on Shore. — His Drefs^ &c. and the Manner in which he is received by his Countrymen. — Employments of the Crew. — 7he Arrival of Maquilla^ Chief of King George's Sounds with Callicum^ a Perfon the next in Rank to him. — A Defcriptien of their Dreffes, and the Ceremonies they praSlifed onfeeing the Ship.— 'they come on Board. — Prefentmade them. — thePerfons of thefe Chiefs defcribed.— Leave obtained to build an Houfe and Fejfelt and Ground granted for that Purpofe. — Prefents made on the Occajion. — Callicum attaches hinifelf to the Ship^ and is appointed Protestor of the Party on Shore ^ by Maquilla.^An Houfe built in Friendly Cove. — Defcription of it. — Keel of a f^ejfel laid. — Some Account of the Murder of Callicum by the Spaniards f in the following Tear, > - i^r ' TH E fhip had been moored but a very fhort time, when It began to blow a tempeftuous gale of wind, with very heavy rain ; the commodious fituation, therefore, of Friendly Cove, made us truly fenfible of our good fortune, in being thus fecurely placed in a protecting haven, where neither ftorm or tempeft could alarm our fears or trouble our repofe. Our earlieft attention was invited to a multitude of the natives, aflem- bled on the banks in front of the village, in order to take a view of the (hip. 1 W) 'I .» ^t ih :rt » » Ear«n<«»'^jW'wa»IW||p»<>W!lHia«HKiM<9'.«>i««*IM I I ;*<■ J '4 (J ii)-l t i I'' ^'x. i %t i\ •• (. TM WlIT CQA*i; litj 4. IK^S^ wU!l»; 4>rK<'ii uitAU •«. n- r.'>. k *.-.wcrjf-l . ..;-f ' u n> II ) u* .'(,, but aIjCo witl) ^ m '/•,■«//•.//.".>' ,„71 .> l-,^_ *% '*■. ■ ... 'V ) / \i m m II 'V <(' II '• " t^mm n tt im Mm 'i, m mil , > 1 »4-'W- ■m "V.«'' -^y ..'■■;*l?^/!M f Mi ^V -"'''?■ i ,i»f;* ■ ■". ,iu #r^.^ ,- *' S t *. 1, r i> r^Vl i 5; iVj^PJ.jjiH'i ikim i''^\ J .^'.'.,. ui^ mwM I i"r jv '^U 1 / }•♦« ■.^ m^ *r *r » "^ \i,V. •\U 1 'l>'''^?. ff«»J ,1 .■> ''i *. -*-t » » Vti ^ii^'fi' s; 4, f; . 1 If'j ^'^ ■iH { *. f"! t' «S *^ i^'-:r,i?-k^ ^* ' * ' 1 1 ^.;., -lili '!; 1 ».- I M ' ^Jjli'*""^ M — r*'' >• ■ V H^ ' «. Il' Hi '» M ! ( I • t ^s;'''?*'* ?>#«i ^{ !.3l > .^ Ih'Ai 'f ' * .L< ,!-*' ? -i^^"/ i; i>V'>. il J :ill '^fVSyjl'^ -'? i "'';. \\4 '»'•*' (''* !'f) *,,- i. W'' jHs' ^' , »i' '^iU >>i ' J!.l ' i^ i . ": ',%yi II ^)l^vi^r;rf-"f*J •} .>■' « %i i^^ •« ' W,| .-JJSI ir WlBs -« » n ' . t! • rf 'Ml ■(-(■ ~ ^/^ #s '•»_ M'/itl',/Aii,)'i.t. IV,'. I>\J \\:t//,-iX"iiy./'i,,-i./i,'(v. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ihip, Comekela, who for feveral days had been in a ftate of the moft anxious impatience, now enjoyed the inexpreflible delight of once more beholding his native land, to which he returned with the confcious pride of knowledge acquired by his voyage, and in the pofleflion of thofe arti- cles of utility or decoration, which would create the wonder, and en< creafe the refpeft of his nation. His joy, however, received no incon- fiderable interruption from the abfence of his brother Maquilla, the chief of King George's Sound, and his relation.Callicum, who flood next in rank to the fovereign. Thefe chiefs were, at this time, on a viHt of ceremony to Wicananifii, a powerful prince of a tribe to the Southward. Of this circumftance we were informed by Hannapa, who in the ab- fence of the two fuperior chiefs was left in power at Nootka, and who was come on board to pay us a vifit. At this time Comekela was dreiTed in a fcarlet regimental coat, deco- rated with brafs buttons,— a military hat fet off with a flaunting cockade, decent linens, and other appendages of European drefs, which was far more than fufficient to excite the extreme admiration of his country- men. Nor was Hannapa infenfible to the appearance of Comekela ; for he regarded him not only with the moft prying attention, but alfo with ftriking cxpreffions of that envy which is a very prevalent paffiou among the natives of this part of America. In a (hort time the fliip was furrounded with a great number of canoes, which were filled with men, women and children; they brought alfo confiderable fupplies of fifh, and we did not hefitate a moment to purchafe an article fovery acceptable to people juft arrived from a long, and toilfome voyage. Jbi 109 1785. May. t •r y>mm 1788. Mat. VOYAGES TO THE III the evening the weather cleared up, and Comekela prepared to go on fliore. The news of his intention was foon communicated to the vil- lage, which immediately poured forth all its inhabitants to welcome him to his native home. • t ? h I )i V- Comekela had now arrayed himfelf in all his glory. His fcarlet coat was decorated with fuch quantities of brafs buttons and copp6r ad- ditions of one kind or other, as could not fall of procuring him the mbft profound refped from his countrymen, and render him an objeft of the firft defire among the Nootka damfels. At leaft half a (heet of copper formed his breaft-plate ; from his ears copper ornaments were fulpended, and he contrived to hang from his hair, which was dreffed en queuct fo many handles of copper faucepans, that his head was kept back by the weight of them, in fuch a ftifF and upright poHtion, as very much to heighten the fingularity of his appearance. For various articles of his prefent pride Comekela had been in a (late of continual hoftility with the cook, from whom he had contrived to purloin them ; but their laft and principal ftruggle was for an enormous fpit, which the American had feized as a fpear, to fwell the circumflance of that magni- ficence with which he was on the moment of dazzling the eyes of his countrymen ; — And fituated as we were, this important article of culinary fervice could not be denied him. In fuch a ftate of accoutrement, and feeling as much delight as ever fed the pride of the mofl fplendid thrones of Europe or the Eaft, we fet out with him for the ftiore, when a general (hout and cry from the village aflured him of the univerfal joy which was felt on his return. k The whole body of inhabitants moved towards the beach, and with a moft unpleafant howl, welcomed him onshore. At the head of them appeared ^^iNpi>**^>*-^NHH.>*-«Mta — f ■jT *. -**«!J«»- • .-ft-— i- T NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. appeared his aunt, an old woman of about eighty years of age, and, from her appearance, might have been fuppofed to have lived in a continual ftate of filth and dirtinefs from her birth to the moment in which we beheld fuch a difguft'mg obje£t. She embraced her nephew with great afFeftion, and ihed the fcalding rheum of her eyes on the cheek of Comekela. After the firft ceremonies of welcome were over, and the firft gaze of admiration fatisfied, the whole company proceeded to the king's houfe, into which poribns of rank were alone permitted to enter, and where a magnificent feaft of whale blubber and oil was prepared : the whole com- pany fat down with an appetite well fuited to the luxuries ojfthe banquet : even the little children drank the oil with all the appearance of extreme gratification ; but Coinekela's tafle Teemed to have been in fome degree vitiated by the Indian and European cookery, and he did not enjoy his native delicacies with the fame voracious gluttony as if his fto- mach had never known ths variety of other food than that of Nootka. The evening was pafled m great rejoicing ; their fbngs and dancing con- tinued during the greateft part of the night. We returned on board early in the evening ; but we heard for a long time after the found of their fcflivity. Ill 1788. Mat. ii rmn '1' Nootka is fituated on a rifing bank, which fronts the fea, and is backed and ikirted with woods*. In Friendly Cove the houfes are large, and in the common faflilon of the country. Each of thefe man- fions accommodates feveral families, and is divided into partitions, in the * A particular account of the village or town of Nootka, is refcrved for that part of this volume which will treat at large of the commerce, geography, Sec. of the North Weft Coaft of America. ■ ..,,.. '.}('■. manner *^«r''-'^ik- IIS VOYAGES TO THE 1788. manner of an Englifh ftablc, in which aH kinds of dirt, mixed with blubber, oil and fifli, are dlfcovcred by more fenfcs than one, to form a mafs of undcfirable filthiiicfs. wr.inff,bji4 On the 14th, the weather was fufficicntly fair to admit of our dif- patching a party on (hore to erctft a tent for the wooders and waterers, as well as one for the fail-makers. For this purpofe a fpot was chofen at a fmall diftance from the village, and contiguous to a rivulet. The reft of the crew were employed in unreefing the running rigging, un- bending the fails, and the other neceflary duties of the ftiip. i :-■ F/l {^ r.uUy li On the i6th, a number of war canoes entered the cove, with Maquilla and Callicum ; they moved with great parade round the (hip, fuiging at the fame time a fong of a pleafmg though fonorous melody : — there were twelve of thefc canoes, each of which contained about eighteen men, the greater part of whom were cloathed in drefles of the moft beautiful Ikins of the fea otter, which covered them from their necks to their ancles. Their hair was powdered with the white down of birds, and their faces bedaubed with redjind black ochre, in the form of a fhark^s jaw, and a kindof fpiralline, which rendered their appearance extremely favage. In moft of thefe boats there were eight rowers on a fide, and a fmgle man fat in the bow. The chief occupied n place in the middle, and was alfo diftinguifhed by an high cap, pointed at the crown, and ornamented at top with a fmall tuft of feathers. We liftened to their fong with an equal degree of furprifcand pleafure. It was, indeed, impofliblc for any ear fufccptible of delight from miifical founds, or any mind that was not infenfible to the power of meloily, to remain unmoved by this folemn, unexpedled concert. Theehoruswas in unifon, and Aridlly corre<£l as to time and tone; nor did a diflbnant 5 note .... - / > • NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. note efcapc them. Sometimes they would make a fudden tranfition from the high to the low tones, with fuch melancholy turns in their varia- tions, that we could not reconcile to ourfelvcsthe manner in which they' acquired or contrived this more than untaught melody of nature. — There was alfo fomcthing for the eye as well as the ear; and the adion x which accompanied their voices, added very much to the impreflion which the chaunting made upon us all. Every one beat time with undeviating regularity, againd the gunwale of the boat, with their paddles ; and at the end of every verfe or ftanza, they pointed with extended arms to the North and the South, gradually finking their voices in fuch a folemn manner, as to produce an effed not often attained by the or- cheftras in our quarter of the globe. They paddled round our fhip twice in this manner, uniformly rifing up when they came to the ftern, and calling out the word •wacujli, wacujh^ or friends. They then brought their canoes along-lide, when Maquilla and Callicum came on board. The former appeared to be about thirty years , of a middle fize, but extremely well made, and poflefling a countenance that was formed to intereft all who faw him. The latter fcem- cd to be ten years older, of an athletic make, and a fine open arrangement of features, that united regard and confidence. The inferior people were proper and very perfonable men. A feal-lkin filled witia oil was imme- diately handed on board, of which the chiefs took a fmall quantity, and then ordered it to be returned to the people in the canoes, who foou emptied the vcflel of this luxurious liquor. »«3 1788. J '« A prefent, confifting of copper, iron, and other gratifying articles, was made to Maquilla and Callicum, who, on receiving it, took off their fea-otter garments, threw them, in the moft graceful manner, at P our 'tr .*«iir!vf I »i4 1788. May. VOYAGESTOTHE our feet, and remained in the unattired garb of nature on the deck.— > They were each of them in return prefented with a blanket,— when with every mark of the highefl fatisfadtion, they defcended into their canoes,- which were paddled haftily to the fliore. The manner in which thefe people give and receive prefents is, we believe, peculiar to themfelves. However coftly the gift may be in their own eyes, they wifti to take away all idea of conferring any obligation on the receiver of it. We have feen two chiefs meet on a vifit of cere- mony provided with prefents of the richeft furs, which they flung before each other with an air that marked the moft generous friendfliip, and rivalled that amiable interchange of kindnefs which diftinguifhes the more polifhed nations of the world. y l Sunday*; From the time of our arrival at Nootka to the 25th, we had much bad weather ; but that circumftance, however unpleafant, did not prevent us from engaging in the different operations we had in view. Maquilla had not only moft readily confented to grant us a fpot of ground in his terri- tory, whereon an houfe might be built for the accommodation of the people we intended to leave there, but had promifed us alfo his aHiftance in for>varding our works, and his proteftion of the party who were deftined to remain at Nootka during our abfcnce. In return for this kindnefs, and to enfure a continuance of it, the chief was prefented with a pair of piftols, which he had regarded with an eye of folicitation ever fince our arrival. Callicum, who feemed to have formed a moft affeftionate at* tachment to us, was alfo gratified, as well as the ladies of his family, with fuitable prefents : it indeed became our more immediate attention to con6rm his regard, as he had been appointed by Maquilla to be our particular guardian and protestor, and had the moft peremptory injunc- tions to prevent the natives from making any depredations on us. X But ■ ' ' i — ii*ii n i " ^ 'tL;^.'— -----^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. X. 119 1788. Methods employed by the Natives to advance the Price of Sea Otters Skins,— Thi'ir Superiority in arranging their Bargains between us. — ConduSi of Comekela, — Made a Chief through our Influence. ^^His Marriage. — the Magnificence of the Entertainment on the Occafon.—Maquilla and his Chiefs affeSl our Drefs and Manners.— 'f^a/uab/e Prefent ofMaquilla.'-'AGrindJione folen. — jin human Hand offered for Sale. — Narrow Efcape ff the Natives on the Occajion. — Melancholy Lofs of Part of the Crew of the Imperial EagUy in 1787. — Sufpicion that Maquiila is a Cannibal. — Extraordinary Pillow of Callicum. — the Inhabitants of Friendly Cove remove to a fmall Diflance. '—the Reafons and Facility of their Removal. — A young Otter brought for Sale. IN the interval between our arrival and the fifth of June, a very brifk trade had been carried on for furs, and we had procured upwards of one hundred and forty Tea otter (kins. On ourfirft arrival we had (lipu- lated a certain price for every different kind of fur, according to its value; but in the whole bufinefs of this traffic they availed thcmfclves of every advantage ; and it was our intereft, from the views of future benefit, to fubmit to any deviation they attempted to make from their original agreement. After fome little time they changed the whole order of their traffic with us ; and inflead of common barter, according to the diftinA value of ill \[4 \ 20 ,1 1783. J I' ME. VOYAGES TO THE of the article* exchanged, the whole of our mercantile iKalings was car- ried on by makingrcciproc.il prelciits; the ceremony of which was ac- companied with the iitiiioll dif'play of their pride and hofpitality.— The particulars of thcfc cuftoms nre related at large in that part of the work which is more particularly atligncd to commercial uiformation. Whenever Maquill.i or Callicum thought proper to make us a prcfent, one of their perfonal attendants wa* fent to requcft the company of the T'ig/.'ce, or Captain, on fliore, who always accepted the invitation, chargi.d with fuch articles as were interded to be prefentcd in return. On our arrival at the habitation of the chiefs, where a great number of fpetHators attended to fee the ceremony, the fea otter Ikins were pro- duced with great (lioutings and g-^ftures of exultation, and then laid at ' our fest. The filence of expctflation then fuccceded among them, and tlieir moft eager attention was employed on the returns we (hould make; nor can it be fuppofed, that, confidcring our credit as Britilh merchants, we were defi>;icnt in affording the cxpcifled fatisfa^lion: — bcfides, it had been artfully enough hinted by our Nootka friends, that as foon as their prefcnt ftock of Ikins was exhaufted, they (hould go upon an expedition to procure more; and tiiis was one circumftance, among others, which naturally tended to quicken the ipirit of commerce between us. Since tlie firft difcovery of this Sound by Captain Cook, feveral fliips had arrived there for the purpofe of trading with the natives, who had acquired a greater degree of civilization from fuch a communication than we expected to have found amongft them; — but it was a matter of fome furprize to us, that they appeared, at leaft to our obfervation, totally deftitute of European articles : for, of all the iron, copper, beads. Sec. which they muft have received in return for their furs, not a particle of them \ \ KORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. lai them was now to be frf» ;— nor is it eafy to conje£lurc in what manner 1788. they had contrived, in iu fhuit .1 time, todlHlpate tlicir trcafures. The fitklcnef» 'bat they at times tlifcovered in their traffic, was occa- (ionaliy very troublcKiine. At onetime copper was their favourite ob- jes, in returning to the manners of his country, he began to prefer the intcrefts of his countrymen, and, amidil the renewed luxuries of whale flelh, blubber and oil, to forget the very great kindncfles wc had bellowed upon him. — But as he had, through our influence, been raifed into a fituation of trufl and honour, it was notour intereO: to un. fold our fufpicions of his duplicity and ingratitude towards us. Miquilla had committed to him tlie care of his moft valuable treafures, among which was a brafs mortar, left by Captain Cook, which was held in the highcft degree of tftimation by the Nootka Chief. This piece of culinary furniture was elevated from a ftate of fervilc ufc, to become a fymbol of royal magnificence. It was kept extremely bright, and, in vifits, or meetings of ceremony, it was borne before Maquilla, to aid the fplendor of the regal charadler. — It was therefore an objc£l rather to recall his former difpofitions towards us, by the continuance of our fritMidfliip, than to juft" fy his deviation from that regard whie!i it was his duty to manifcft in our favour. We therefore exerted our influence with his brotiier Maquilla, to elevate him at once to the character of chief. h ' 'I ■'.\ n n ^ by 122 VOYAGES TO THE \v 1788. JUM. by marrying him to a woman of rank in his own di(lri£t. This favour was immediately granted to our folicitation, and we were invited to the nuptials, which were folemnized with all poffible magnificence. — Half a whale, a large quantity of other fifh, with an adequate proportion of oil, formed the fumptuous part of this entertainment, which was ferved with a furprizing degree of regularity to near three hundred people, who condu£ted themfelves with great order, and exprcfl'ed extreme fatisfiidtion at the fplendor and hofpitality of their chief. Friday 6 On the 6th, a meflengcr came on board from Maquilla, with the informa- tion that he was preparing to make us a very fuperb prefent, and to defire our attendance on fliore, in order to receive it. — We immediately waited on the chief, and found him drefled in an European fuit of cloaths, with a ruffled (hirt, and his hair queued and powdered : — thcfe decorations of his perfon were part of thofe prefents which Comekela had received from us, and were, wltli all their weight of copper ornaments, confidered as a proud diftiniflion of Nootka royalty. The king was furrounded with feveral chiefs, who were all adorned with fome particular article of Englifli drefs, which appeared to afford an uncommon gratification to their vanity; and, on this occafion, tlicy had cleanfed their faces from all the oil and ochre with which they were ufually bedaubed. — In- deed, the metamorphofis was of fuch a nature, as, on our firft entering the houfe, to puzzle us a little in the recognition of our friends. This circumftance afforded them coiifiderable entertainment, which was followed by their rifing up and imitating our mode of falutation. Tlie manner of taking off their hats, the curio. 3 geftures they fell into, in fcraping and bowing to each other, with a few Englifli words which they had acquired, and now repeated aloud, without connexion or underftanding, compofed a fccne with which they were delighted, and we could not be difpleafed. When thele good-humoured ceremonies wer« over. m a - 1 i% \ t fmit ' .d2L"^• NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 123 over, the chief ordered feveral very fine fea otter flcins to be produced !788. before us, and afterwards fent on board the fhip; to which he added a ^"''** very fine deer, that had been juft killed in the woods by one of his people. We were not backward in making a fuitable prefent to Ma- quilla; and, on our return to the (hip, we found that the otter-lkins had preceded us. The arrival of Comekela had infpired thefe people with a decided preference fi)r the articles of European drefs ; — an hat, a (hoe, or a flocking, would generally turn the balance of commercial negotiation in our favour: — nor did we negled any motives in our power to encourage a fancy which might promote the uie of woollens amongft them. On the 7th, a complauit was made by the cooper that his grindftone Saturaay 7 had been ftolen by the natives. — This was the firft aft of depredation that we had fufFe-^*! ; — indeed the different (hips that had vlfited the Sound before us are f.iid to have endured a fimilar lofs. We had obferved that the attention of the people had been principally direded to this ftone, being convinced that it contained fome peculiar charm, by which it communicated, with fuch little trouble, fo (harp an edge to our iron ; an operation which they found a matter of no common difficulty. The lofs of this article was of fome importance ; and every means was exerted to recover it, but in vain ; — even our application to Maquilla was not attended with the ufualfuccefs. — It was, however, thought more prudent to connive at the theft, than engage in a difpute with the people; — we therefore contented ourfelves with ifl'uing ftriil orders that none of the natives, except the chiefs, (liould, in future, be admitted within the breaft-work that furrounded the houfe. Q^ On 124 VO YAG E 8 TO THE 178S. Jt'NB. Sunday i On the 8tli, A Aratige canoe with feveral people in it entered the cove, and, coming alongfide the fliip, fold us a fmall number of fea otter ikins : — they alio olTcrcd for fale an human hand, dried and (hrivelled up ; the fingers of which were compleat, and the nails long; but our horror may be better conceived than exprelled, when we faw a feal hanging from the ear of one of the men in the canoe, which was known to have belonged to the unfoitunate Mr. Millar, of the Imperial Eagle, whofe melancholy hiftory was perfetflly well known to every one on board*. The failors fcarcely hcTitated a moixicnt in exprefTuig their opinion that it muft have been tho hand of Mr. Millar, and tliat the people before them were the murderers of that olficer. This fufpicion would have caufed the certain death of our vifitors, if it had not been fuggefted that the feal in queftion might have been transferred, by a fucceiiion of barters, to tJje prefent pofleflbr. — The being in poflclfion of the hand was, however, confidered as fo pre- ponderating a circumftance, that it was no ealy matter to keep the failors in due bounds ; and who, after all, could not he retrained from driving thefe people away from the (hip, with every mark otinfult and dcteftation. They proved, however, to be innocent of the crime of which they had been fufpe«fled; as we were allured, the next day, by Ma- quilla himfelf, on his own knowledge, that they had received the articles which had occafioned fo much difguft to us, in the way of trade, from the natives of Queen hy the, which was the very place where Mr. Millar and his aflbciatcs had been murdered.— But the chief did not attempt to * The Imperial Eagle was a fhip employed to colleft furs on the Coaft of America, in the year 1787. In thecourfc of this bulinefs, tl»c Capuiti difpatclied bis long-boat fiotn King George'i Sound, on a trading expedition as far as 47" North; ftie then anchored a-brraft of a river, tlie Ihailows *t wlioi'c entrance prevented the long-boat from getting into it. A fmall hoar, however, which was attaclicd to the other, was tnt up the river with Mr. Millar, an officer of the Imperial Eagle, another young gentleman, and four fcamcn. — They continued rowing till tlicv ca.nt- fo a village, where they were fuppofcJ to have been feized and murdered by the natives, as their doalhs were aftcrwaids found Gained with blood. deny NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. deny that the hand had belonged to one of our unhappy countrymen ; and, from his manlfefl cnnfudon in converHng on this fubjedt, and va- rious other concurring circumftances, which will be related hereaf- ter, we were very much difpofed to believe that Maquilla himfelf was a cannibal. There is, indeed, too much rcafon to apprehend that the horrible traffic for human flefli extends, more »or Icfs, along tliis part of the continent of America. Even our friend Callicum repofcd his head, at night, upon a large bag, filled with human (kuUs, which he flicwed as the trophies of his fuperior courage ; and it is more than probable, that the bodies of the victims to which they belonged, had furnifhed a banquet of vitftory for him, and the warriors that Hiared hi* favage glory. 125 1788. June. On tlie fame day Wicananifh, a powerful chief to the Southward, at whofe court Mnquilhi was vihting when we arrived in the Sound, came to return the vilit, with two uar canoes, and the greater part of his nu- merous fuite fuperbly drefl'ed in furs of the higheft eftimation. Thele people were of a more thriving appearance than our friends at Nootka, which aroff, probably, from their being fituated on a part of the coaft where whales were in greater plenty ; — for this article, on which much of the fuftenancc, and all their luxury depended, was beginning to be fcarce in Nootka Sound. Wicananifli paid us a formal vifit on board the Felice, and invited us to his place of refidcncc, with a promife of great abundance of furs ; — but we could not, at prtfent, tempt him, or any of his attendants, by any articles in our pofleflion, to part with the beautiful dreffes which they wore. On the loth, we obrerved a general commotion throughout the il- Tuefday >o lage, and, in a flioi t time, as if by enchantment, the greater part of the houfcs difappearcd. — When we went on fhore, Maquilla informed us that 5 1"» 126 1788. Juki. V O YAG ESTOTHE his people were preparing to remove to a bay which was at the diftance of about two miles from the Sound, on account of the great quantities of fi(h which reforted thither, not only to procure a prefent (lock of whale and other fifli, but to take the carlieft opportunity to prepare for their winter's fubfiftence. The manner in which the houfes of Nootka are conflruilcd, renders the embarkations as well as debarkations a work of little time and ready execution, fo tliat a large and populous village is entirely removed to a diflrerent {Ration with as much cafe as any other water carriage. But a more particular account of thcfe and (imilar circumftanccs relating to the manners and cuAoms of thefe North Weftern Americans, will, as we have before had occafion to obferve, be given in another part of this volume. ' I 1 , *u Several young fea otters were brought on board for fale, which found no purchafers. One of them was brought alive ; the dams and all their whelps had been killed by Maquilla, except this, which, however, had met with fome very rough treatment, as one of its eyes had been evi- dently forced out of its focket. It was very fmall, made a noife exadly like a young child, and was the moft animated creature we had ever feen among the brute race. — After keeping it a day or two, we threw it into the fea, in order to let it efcape ; but, to our great furprize, we found that it could neither dive or fwim, but continued flouncing about in the water till we retook iron board, when it foon after died from the bruifcs it had received. — This circumftance is, however, eafily accounted for, as the dam of the fea otter is well known to carry its young ones on its back till a certain period, when they have acquired both ftrengtli and habit to take care of themfclves. 1p 1% CHAP. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XI. 127 1788. June. Ship prepares to put to Sea. — I'he Pinnace ftolen by the Natives. — ImpoJJtbUHj^ cf recovering her. — Some uneafinejfes on board the Ship. — Officers and Party Intended to be left onjhore^ landed. — Provljtons made for equipping the New Vejfel. — "the Safety of the Party confuIted.—Progrefs of the New Fejel. — Health of the Crexv. — Supplies of FIJIj. — A formal Vlfit to Maqullla^ and Renewal of the 'Treaty^ &c.—He Is made acquainted with the probable I'ime of the Iphigk'nia*s Arrival Requcjls a Letter for the Captain. — Our Aflonljhment at his Knowledge, and by what Means It was obtained. — Story of Mr. Mace ay. — Calllcum arrives from hunting the Sea Otter.—' Articles which had belonged to Sir Jofeph Banks In his PoJfeJJlon. — T'he Ship puts to Sea.— Plan of future Proceedings, &c, &c. 'l ON the I ith of June, the weather being fine and moderate, the fhip Wednefdayn was unmoored and towed by the boats out of Friendly Cove, in order to put to fea : it had been our intention to have departed on the 9th, but we fuffered an accident which very much diftreflcd us : this was no lefs than the lofs of the Pinnace, a very large fine boat, and the only one of the kind \vc h;ul. We were dil'pofed to be- lieve at firft, that fhe broke adrift from the fhip in the niglit, in a guft of wind, without being perceived by the watch ; — but in the morning flic was not to be feen, and both boats and canoes were difpatchcd in fearch of her, but to no purpofe of fuccef^. Large rewards were then offered to the natives if they would reftore her, as, from a variety of circumftances, we had no doubt but that (he was in their pofleflion. Maquilla and Cal- J< licum .11 (I II ** "^ *!■> ■ 128 1788. June. V O YAG E S TO THE licum both aflerted their innocence in the ftrongeft terms ; but it after- wards appeared, as we fufpctfled, that tlie boat liad been ftolen and bro- ken up for the fake of the iron and nails, which were afterwards dif- perfed throughout the Sound, .'f This theft threatened, at firft, a rupture between us and the chief; and while there were any hopes of producing t'^e reftoration of the Pinnace, we affumed rather an appearance of refentment ; but when we were convinced that the recovery of tlie boat was impradicablc, we let the matter pafs over without any further buftle or diftnrbance. Had we, indeed, proceeded to take any fteps towards a retaliation, it would probably have occafioncd a breach between us and the chief of Nootka, which miglit have been difadvantagcous to our commercial objefts in general, and been attended with evident danger to the party we (hould leave behind us. We therefore contented ourfelves with warning Ma- quilla againft any depredations of a fimilar nature, and fufpending the quarter- mafters from their ftations, as it was from their negleil that this very diftreffing inconvenience proceeded. There ftill continued to I'jrk amongft the crew thofe fvmptoms of mutiny which had, at times, difcovcred itfclf in the early part of the voyage ; thougli we had flartered ourfelves that it was entirely eradicated previous to our arrival at Samboingan. The boatfwain had lately failed in that rcfpeft to the officers which the duties of his Nation iiidifpen- fably obliged him to obferve. But a proper degree of fpirit and exertion cliecked fuch menacing conduct, and he was degraded from his Htuatiou to the inferior duty before tlie mad. Another boatfwain was appointed in his (lead, and the whole of this proceeding was entered in the log-book. On !«♦«&«».■ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. On the day previous to our departure we landed the officers and party who were to remain on fhore with the carpenters, in order to compleat the veffel. Proper inftru£lions were left with the commanding officer, Ihould the Felice fail in her propofed return, or any fatality happen either to her or the Iphigenia, who was expeded in the Sound by the latter end of the autumn. In cafe fuch an accumulated misfortune (hould befal the expedition, we left every neceflary (lore to equip the new veflel for fea, with f'.fficient provifions to carry her to the Sand- wich Iflands, where flie would be able to obtain fufficient refrefhment to enable her to proceed to China. It was but a neceflary duty to guard, as well as we were able, againft every poffiblc calamity ; the (hip's com- pany did not appear to feel any imprcfiions of an unfavourable omen, and we left our friends on (liore with the moft chearing hopes of finding them at our return, in a fituation of great advantage and comfort. 129 1788. JVHI. ' fl But, independent of the velTel, we hoped to reap very condderable be- nefits from the parly on (here ; at leaft we had every reafon to expeft that they would colleifl all the furs taken by the inhabitants of King George's Sound during the fummer months, which we knew muft be confiderable. We were, at all events, very certain that they would re- main free from difturbance and moledation ; for befides a piece of cannon mounted on the works, the little fort was well fupplied with arms and ammunition ; and the garrifon, including the artificers, was fully fuffi- cient to defend it againft any power that could be brought againft it. The veflTel was in great forwardnefs, feveral of her floor timbers were laid, and the armourers had prepared a large quantity of nails and bolts. There was eftabli(hed, befides, a very convenient rope-walk, and we had already begun to manufadure that elTential article. So that, if all the circumftances of ercftinga comfortable and commodious houfe, ballafting R and t , ■ ' 1' I \' '}<> f j ■ i ^ 1788. JVNI. VOYAGES TO THE < nnd equipping the Felice for fea, and the laborious buHnefs of procuring timber and preparing mnterials for the conftruAion of the new veilels, with fome few neceflhry attentions to our commercial arrangements, be confidered, the accufation of idlenefs or negligence, would be the lad that the moft unrefleding injuftice could lay to our charge. On our firft arrival in the Sound the country appeared moift, dreary, and uncomfortable ; but we obferved very little fnow then on the ground, and that little was quickly wafhed away by the heavy rains which fuc- ceeded our arrival : — we found the air remarkably mild, and the frefh greens and onions, which were in the greateft abundance, foon reilored the invalids we had on board to a (late of perfect health. Our fupplies of f\(h were constant and regular, and the natives never failed to bring to daily fale as much of this article as they could fpare from the demands of home confumption. On the eve of our departure, a formal vifit was paid Maquilla, in order to acquaint him that on the next day we propofed to leave the Sound. We made him underftand that it would be three or four months before our (hip would return, and about what time we fuppofed the veflTel on the ftocks would be launched. They called the latter MamatUe or (hip, and the former J^igbee MamatUe^ or great (hip. The chief was alfo rc- queded to (hew every mark of attention and friendOiip to the party we ihould leave on (hore ; and as a bribe to fecure his attachment, he was promifed that when we (inally left the coaft, he (hould enter into full pofleflion of the houfe and all the goods and chattels thereunto belonging. As a proof of our immediate regard, he was prefented with a fuit of cloaths covered with metal buttons, in his eyes of extraordinary eftima- tion ; feveral prefeats were made to the ladies of his family ; and as we were NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. were taking our leave, an old lady, the aunt of Comekela, whom we have already defcribed at a mafs of age and filthinefs, requefted, in a very earneft manner, to be indulged with a pair of buckles, which, immediately on her receiving them, were hung in her ears with the fame pride that European beauty feels in decorating its charms with the gems of India. Maquilla, who Was glowing with delight nt the attentions we had paid him, readily granted every requeft we thought proper to make, and confirmed, with the ftrongeft aflurances of good faith, the treaty of friend/hip which had been already entered into between us. He was now alfo informed that another (hip was expected in the Sound, which might probably arrive in our abfence, and that the Captain of this fliip was our particular friend. On receiving this intelligence, he very much aftoniflied us by demanding, without the lenfl helitation, that we would leave a letter with him for our friend, the chief. We had not the leaft idea that thefe people had the moft imperfeft notion of our polTeinng the faculty of communicating our thoughts to each other on paper ; and curiofity was inftantly awake to know by what means they could pof- fibly have acquired fuch an article of information. It was, however, foon fuggefled to us, that theie people obtained their knowledge from a Mr. Maccay, who had remained, we believe, upwards of fourteen months among them, duiing which time he had kept a journal, which we have feen, and the circumftance of which cannot be pafTed over with- out fome account of the buHnel's which occaiioned his being left to nothing better than iavage life. 131 1788. Juki. if .■4y ' 1 4 1 '■ >-m pi i'X I The (hips Captain Cook and Experiment had been equipped under the dire£tion of Mr. Scot, — whofe mercantile experience and fpirit are acknowledged in Europe as well as in, India, — from Bombay to America, for the purpofe of coUefting furs: — they arrived on the R 2 coafl: i'f W" •''VI f 1 1 1, »wi «i»ii|l uMi»Ji »-»^.r.;*'«»« — - 13* 1788. JVNI. Y O YAG E S T O TH E coafl in the year 1 786, and left Mr. Maccay, the furgeon's mate on board one of them, with his own entire confent and approbation, under the protection of Maquilla. Mr. Strange, who had the fuperintendence of thefe (hips, entertained nn opinion that very great commercial effeCls might proceed from leaving Mr. Maccay with the natives of King George's Sound, to learn their language, cuftoms and manners. He was, therefore, accordingly left in the year 1786, and continued with them till 1787, when he embarked fo; China on board the Imperial Eagle. Though this gentleman had been furniflied with cloaths anrfprovifion* for his ftay at Nootka, he was reduced to the level of a favage, and we hardly could conceive how it was poflible for an European co oHitution to fupport itfelf with food averfe to its habits and its nature, — to live in. every fpecies of filth, and fatisfy even hunger with train oil and bluboer. But this was not all, — during Mr. Maccay's ftay, from the length and feverity of the winter, a famine reigned at Nootka Sound : tlie ftock of dried filh was expended, and no frclh fupplies of any kind was to be caught ; fo that the natives were obliged to fubmit to a ftated allowance,, and the chiefs brought every day to our countrymen, the ftated meal of feven dried herrings heads. The perufal of this gentleman's journal would ftiock any mind tin£lurcd with humanity. The favages, how- ever, gave him a wife, and once or twice took him with them to- feafts and dlftant parts; and we can vouch, whatever their condu£l: may have been, that both the chiefs at Nootka and Wicananifti enquired con> cerning his welfare as if they felt the afFedlion for him which they, exprefted. Maquilla was therefore indulged with a letter agreeable to his requeft ; and we were not long in making the difcovery^ that a dread of the Iphi- genia's PJORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. genia's arrival would prove a ftronger prote£lion to our party, than .. I the kindnefs we had bedowed on, and all the promifes which we had received from him. ' i 178.. Callicum, who had been gone for fome time to hunt otters, was now returned, and it gave us no little fatisfadlion that the chief on whom we had the moft reliance, and who was the profeflcd prote£tor and patron of our party, was come back to Nootka, previous to our departure from it. The ufual tokens of friendfliip paffed between us ; but, in return for the prefent we now made him, he furprifed us with three pieces of a brafly metal formed like cricket bats, on which the remains of the name and arms of Sir Jofeph Banks, and the date of the year 1775, were very evident. On one of them the engraving was not Co much injured as to prevent the whole of it from being very intelligible ; on the others, part of thefe diftin>fl marks was worn out. But thefe tokens of regard were returned to the amiable chief, to continue the remembrance of the original donor of them, to whofe enterprifing and philofophic fpirit we may be fiiid to be in a great meafure indebted for the difcovery of a coaft, which, in fpite of every impediment, will, I truft, prove a fource of beneficial commerce to our country. r » 1 (I! \n (4 iUi On putting to fca, it was determined to trace the Southern part of the coaft from King George's Sound, as the Iphigenia was to trace the Northern part of it, from Cook's River to the fame place ; by which ar- rangement the whole of the American continent from 60° to 45° North would be explored, with various intermediate places which were not examined by Captain Cook. We accordingly fet fall, after having given repeated inftrudions to the party we left behind, to hold themfclves continually on their guard againft the natives, — and to be extremely attentive to preferve the moft perfeft harmony with the inhabitants of Nootka Sound. CHAP. ,i;'i ■ w 11 u ».u V O YAO E S TO THE i:88. K'KI. 1. nB( Hi C H A P. XII. Tbe chiefs Hanna an J Delootche vifit the Ship on her Way lo the Refidetue e/lVi- cananijl\ tSc. — IVicanani/h arrives en boar J, and pilots the Ship into his Road- Jfed. — J^umbers of the Inhabitants come off to the Ship. — T/!>e Face of the Country and the Village of Wicananijh dcfcribed.—^Vifit paid to the Chief. — Defer ipiion of his Houfe .—■'Their Ingenuity a SubjeR of jiflonifhment. — Im- mtnfe Family oj iVicananifb.—His Opulence^ Riches^ and Mode of Feafiing, — Prefents made to lVicananifl:. — The high Value fet on *tta-keitUs. — The magnificent Return made to our Prefents. — ^he IVtves of Wtcananifh^ their Beauty, with the Prefents made to them. — Urifk Trade carried on with the Satives. — Refrejhments procured. — Trade with the Chief.-— Murder of a Stranger by the People of the Village.— The Ship obliged by bad fVeather to enter the inner Port^ named Port Cox. Wfdnefdayii ^^>J thc iith of Juiic in thc evening, we were purfuing our courfe ^"^ to the South Eafl, at the diftaiice of three miles from the ftiore, when, at funfet. Breaker's Point, which forms the Eaftern (here of the entrance of King George's SountI, bore in the direction of North Weft half Weft, and a point appeared ftretching to the Southward of Breaker's Point, which obtained the name of Half-way Point, on account of its being about midway between King George's Sound and the relldence of Wicananifti. This point bore Eaft, and our diftance from the fliore might be about three leagues. By a medium of feveral amjjlitudes and azimuths, thc variation of the compafs was 31° 5' Eafterly. We NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »35 Wc continued our courfe till eleven o'clock, with the long-boat in tow, i 788. when it was thought prudent to heave to tor tl»e night. At day-break on the I 2th, we made fail, with the wind variable. At noon the obfcrvcd T'""f''»y •• latitude was 49" %%' North, though we yet obfcrvcd Breaker's Point bearing North Weft by North : and at the lame time faw an high mountain over the entrance of Wicananilh, b;aring Eaft North Eaft, at the dif- tance of feven leagues. As we purfued our courfe, under an cafy fail, in order to examine the coaA between our prcfent pofition and Kuig George's Sound, the wind veered to the South Eaft by Eaft, and the weather became overcaft ; as this wind was direiftly againft us, the fliip was tacked, and we ftuod out to fea, being apprehenfive of bad weather, which we generally found to attend the South Eaft winds. Our fears were foon and very fully con- firmed, for the weather became fqually and violent. The top-fails were clofe reefed ; and we continued ftanding to fea to procure an offing, the moft important objefl of attention on this coaft. In the night it blew very hard from the South Eaft, with an heavy fea, thick weather, and conftant as well as violent rain. At midnight the fhip was wore, and we ftood in for the land. *■, iN At day-break on the 13th, the weather, though it cleared away at Friday 13 times, had a very tempeftuous appearance; our diftance from the land might be fix leagues, and the remarkable hill above Wicananifti appeared \try plain in the form of a fugar loaf: it bore North Kaft by I'^aft fcvin leagues. As we ftood in for the ihore, feveral canoes came off to us from a clufter of iflands nearly abreaft of us, in moft of which there were up- wards of twenty men, of a pleafing appearance and brawny form, chiefly cloathed in otter (kins of great beauty. They paddled along with great velocity, and after fome time, two of the boats came along-fide, and the people J' f f n6 VOYAGES TO THE 1(1) 1788. June. people in them did not hcfitate to come on board. Amongft them there were two chiefs, named Hanna and Detootche, who refided at a village abreaft of the (hip. They were the handfomeft men we had feen : — Hanna was about forty, and carried in his looks all the exterior marks of pleafimtry and good humour ; Detootche was a young man, wJio to the beauty of form, added the graces of manner ; and, as far as our penetration could difcover, the better qualities of the mind. They appeared to be perfeftly at ea(e in our fociety, fliook every perfon on board by the hand, and gave us very friendly invitations to receive the hofpitality of their terri- tory. They were extremely prefTuig that the fhip (hould go in among the iflands. »^ • But as we had prcdetcrmii;cd to fcek out the refidence of Wicananiih, which we were inflruded was not far from King George's Sound, we kept ftanding with that view towards the iflands, which, as we ap- proached, appeared to be low and woody, but we could perceive no praSicable channel between them. Hanna and Detootche, to whom we had made fome trifling prefents, now took their leave and paddkd on Ihore. 1'^ i A i> About noon the weather broke up, and the wind veered to the North- ward of Eaft, with which we flood along the (hore to enter between this range of iflands and the main ; wlien we perceived another fmall fleet t)f canoes approaching us, in the foremoft of which we faw Wicananifli, who, in a fliort time came on board, and undertook to pilot us himfelf into his harbour, the entrance of which, as he pointed it out to us, was at thediflance of about five miles. li^ Boats were now fent a-head to found, and we followed, under an eafy fail ; when, after rounding the extremity of the Southernmoft ifland, 1 we •:::::5B— NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »3; we entered the roadftcd, paffiiig between feveral reefs of rocks. Oiir 1788, foundings were very regular ; and, about one o'clock, we anchored be- tween the mauii and the iflands, being pretty well Iheltered from the fea. Wicananifli proved an excellent pilot, and was not only indefati- gable in his own exertions, but equally attentive to the condutSt of his canoes, hi their attendance upon us. This roadftcd bore the wildeft appearance that can be conceived, and was defended from the fea by feveral fmall iflcts and reefs, whicli nearly conne£led them. The port we obferved was fituated about two miles from the anchoring ground we occupied, the entrance of which did not appear to be more than two cables length in breadth. Abreaft of the fhip, on one of the iflands, we perceived a village almoft thrice as large as that of Nootka ; from every part of which we now law the people launching their canoes, and coming olV in fhoals to the (hip, laden with fifli, wild onions, and berries, which they difpofcd of to the (iiilors for fmall bits of iron, and other articles of fimilar attrac- tion. WicananiHi was entertained during the greater part of the day on board, with feveral of his friends, and at night returned to the fhorc, followed by a long train of natives, who had waited to attend him. The very fine weather on the 14th, gave us an opportunity toobfervc SatiuJ.iy u the face of the country, which appeared on all iides to be an impene- trable foreft, without any Intervals of a clear country. The village of Wicananifli ftands on a rifing bank near the fea, and is backed by the woods. In confequence of a meffage from the chief to ii'vite us to a feall at his houfe, we landed about noon, when \vc were met by a large ciowd of women and children, and conducted by the brother of Wicananiih to the place of entertainment. S Oil V ''I 11 i> ;r h li'' 138 f 1788. June. VOYAGES TO THE On entering the houfe, we were abfolutely aftoniflied at the vaft area it enclofed. It contained a large fquarc, boarded up clofe on all fides to the height of twenty feet, with planks of an uncommon breadth and length. Three enormous trees, rudely carved and painted, formed the rafters, which were fupported at the ends and in the middle by gigantic images, carved out of huge blocks of timber. The fame kind, of broad, planks covered the whole to keep out the rain ; but they were fo placed as to be removed at pleafure, either to receive the air and light, or let out the fmokc. lathe middle of this fpacious room were feveral fires, and befide them large wooden veflels filled with fifli foup. Large dices of whale's flefli lay in a ftate of preparation to be put in fimilar machines filled with water, into w^hich the women, with a kind of tongs, conveyed hot ftones from very fierce fires, in order to make it boil : — heaps of fifli were ftrewed about, and in this central part of the place, which might very properly be called the kitchen, ftood large feal-ikins filled with oil-,, from whence the guefts were ferved with that delicious beverage.. I ill The trees that fupported the roof were of a fize which would render the maft of a firft-rate man of war diminutive, on a comparifon with them ; indeed our euriofity as well as our aftoniflimcnt was on its utmoft ftretch, when we confidered the ftrength that muft be neceflary to raife thefe enormous beams to their prefent elevation ; and how fuch ftrength could be found by a people wholly unacquainted with mechanic pow- ers. The door by which we entered this extraordinary fabric, was the mouth of one of thefe huge images, which, large as it may be fuppofed, was not difproportioned to the other features of this monftrous vifage. We afcended by a few fteps on the outfide, and after paffing this extra, ordinary kind of portal, defcended down the chin into the houfe, where we found new matter for aftonifhment in the number of men, women, and children, who compofed the family of the chief; which confifted of .1 «. \ ! NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i\t leaft eight hundred perfons. Thefe were divided into groupes, ac- cording to their refpedlive offices, which had their diftln£t places afligned them. The whole of the building was furrounded by a bench, about two feet from the ground, on which the various inhabitants fat, eat and flept. The chief appeared at the upper end of the room, furrounded by natives of rank, on a fmall raifed platform, round which were placed fe- vtTal large chefts, over which hung bladders of oil, large dices of whale's flcfli, and proportionable gobbets of blubber. Feftoons of hu- man fculls, arranged with fome attention to uniformity, were difpofed in almoft every part where they could be placed, and were conddered as a very fplendid decoration of the royal apartment. When we appeared, the gucfts had made a confiderable advance in their banquet. Before each pcrfon was placed a large (lice of boiled whale, which, with fmall wooden diflies, filled with oil and fifli foup, and a large mufcle-fliell, by way offpoon, compofed the economy of the table. The fervants were bufily employed in preparing to re- plenifh the feveral diflies as they were emptied, and the women in picking and opening the bark of a tree which ferved the purpofo of towels. If the luxury of this entertainment is to be determined by the vr acioufnefs with which it was eaten, and the quantity that was fwallowed, we muft confider it as the moft luxurious feaft we had ever beheld. Even the children, and fome of them were not more than three years old, poflefled the fame rapacious appetite for oil and blubber as their fathers. The women, however, are forbidden from eating at thefe ceremonials. '39 1788. June. M 1^ m i .Hiii i Wicananifti, with an air of hofpitality which would have graced a more cultivated fociety, met us half way from the entrance, and conducflcd us to a feat near his own, on which we placed ourfelves, and indulged our S 2 curlofity \ MO VOYAGES TO THE 'V i, H s; 1 788. cuilofity during the remainder of die banquet, iu viewing the perfpeAive ^'""' of this fmgular habitation. The fcaft being ended, \vc were defired to (hew the prefents which were intended for the chief: — a great variety of articles, brought for that purpofe, were accordingly difplayed, among which were feveral blankets and two copper tea kettles. The eyes of the whole aflembly were rivetted on thcfe unufual objc(fls, and a guardian was immediately affigned to the two tea-kettles, who, on account of their extraordinary value and beauty, was ordered to place them with great care in the royal coffers, which confifled of large cherts rudely carved, and fancifully adorned with human teeth. About fifty men now advanced in the middle of the area, each of them holding up before us a fea otter Ikin of near fix feet iu length, and the moft jetty blacknefs. As they remained in this pofturc, the chief made a fpeech, and giving his hand in token of friendfliip, informed us that thcfe (kins were the return he propofed to make for our prefent, and ac- cordingly ordered them to be immediately fent to the fliip. Our royal hoft appeared to be entirely fatisfied with our homage ; and we, who were equally pleafed with his magnificence, were about to take our leave, when the ladies of his family advanced towards us, from a diftant part of the building, whither they had retired during the enter- tainment. Two of them had pafled the middle age, but the other two were young, and the beauty of their countenances was fo powerful as to predominate over the oil and red ochre which, in a great meafure, covered them. One of the latter, in particular, difplayed fo fweet an air of diffi- dence and modefty, that no difguft of colour, or deformity of drefs, could preclude her from awakening an interefl even in miuds cultured to refine. ment. $ J' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 141 ment. We had not, very fortunately, difpofed of all the treafure we had 1788. brought on Ihorr, and a few beads and ear-rings that yet remained, ferved ^"'"" to give our vifit a concluding grace, by prcfenting them to thefe ladies of the court. We continued till the 17th, carrying on a very briflc trade with the TuefJay 17 natives. The chief generally paid us a vifit every day, and we lived on the moft friendly terms with him and tlie whole village. The natives brought us abundance of fifh of various kinds. The fahnon and falmon- trout was of the beft flavour, and we generally received cod, halibut, rock-fifli, and herrings frifli from the fea ; wliile the women and clil!- dren fold us cray-filh, berries, wild onions, fallads, and other cfculent plants ;— an occafional piece of venifon alfo heightened the luxury of our table. On the I 7th, Wicananifh requeftcd our attendance on fhorc to engaj^c in a barter for furs. On our landing, we were condmfted, as before, to his houfe, where we found the number of his family to be rather en- creafed than dimini(hcd. No form or ceremony, liowever, was now employed ; the whole family fecmcd to enjoy a fociable intcrcourfe with each other ; the women were permitted to eat with the men, and greatly to our f;itisfa£lion, tlie whole company appeared with the famili- arity of uiibefmeared faces, fo that we Iwd an opportunity of examining the coinclin-'ls of one fex, ai:d the beauty of the other. This circum- ftance led v.c to infer, that thefe people employ paint only on days of feftivity and ceremony. The fea otter ikins and other furs were now produced to tiie number of t'lirry, and of the moft beautiful kind ; which, after a confiderablc deal ot ntgotidtiou, we at length purchaled ; for wc ibund to our coft, that 1; iPf^"- -^^^Vfcfc t4» 1788. JVNI. V O YAG E S TO T HIE. that thefe people, like thofe of Nootka, poflefTed all the cunning necefTatj to the gains of mercantile life. The fame rage for prefents prevailed here, as in the Sound ; and even the ladies would interfere in making a bargain, and retard the concludonof it, till they had been gratified with an added offering. Juft as we were going to embark, there was a fudden and univerfal confufion throughout the village ; a confiderable number of canoes were inflantly filled with armed men, and being launched in a moment, were paddled to the fhip. At firft we were apprehenfive that fome broil had taken place between the natives and the crew ; but we were foon fiitisfied that a matter of political jealoufy, refpedling Ibme of their neighbours, was the caufe of this fudden commotion. Some flrangers having ven- tured to vifit the (hip without the knowledge of Wicananilh, the chief had ordered his people to fall upon the intruders, one of whom they liad now feized and brought on ftiore. We are forry to add, that this unfortunate man was immediately hurried into the woods, where we have every reafon to apprehend that he was quickly murdered. We made the moft earneft interceflion in his behalf, and even proceeded to threats on the occafion ; but while we were employed in the office of mercy, they, we fear, were enjoying the barbarity of revenge. This event ftrcngthened our opinion, that however mild and friendly the behaviour of thefe people might be to us, perhaps under the influence of fear, they were fierce and cruel to each other. Indeed it had been very generally obferved by us all, that at times, their countenances told a very plain tals of afavage mind. Friday JO The Weather was very bad till the 20th, it blowing an hnrd gale of wind from the South Eaft, with continual rain. At times, alfo, an heavy fwell rolled in upon us, which rendered our fituation very un- pleafdnt. I -W--m«--y^.^-'-^<. "< ^*w? 'HW«» Je 4^-^ ,^j^ e *-w«=='^'*--*««»e »^'W^.;i.»:^.1 * .«(. -i T ■'..'■„■.■>•' '$ •I • i i I «.. II '^y"^ ",- f% f*r t''' ''' « ' ^ i»>3!|ir»* w i Mj ig. . < W i ^ » »« ,b,- '^»*--?i^*.'.-v^. ' i'« «-i<^5»rt».««.MHaa,,,(,.^..^||j^j f v*i^ 4 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. pleafant* It was therefore determined that we (hould embrace the firft favourable moment to get into the inner port, which had been already furveyed, and was found to be not only convenient, but entirely de« fended from the winds. V •> \ ♦> 'V ' v «\ • In the evening it moderated, when the fliip was got under fail, which was no (boner obferved by Wicananifli than he came on board, and fafely piloted us into the harbour, which we named Port Cox, in honour of our friend John Henry Cox, £fq. — But not chufing to truft entirely to theikill of the chief on the occalion, the boacs were fcnt a-head to found, particularly on the bar; on which wc had three and an half and four fathoms, and foon after deepened our water to thirteen, fourteen and fifteen fathoms. It then decreafed to eight, in which depth we dropped our anchor in a fafe and fecure harbour. '.\ , / J f ■-, ;,«> /■' • Mt CHAP. »4|. 1788. JUNt. 1 \ .ifl I 11 iri i . ) i' ^ 1 144 VOYAGES TO THF. 1788. ■I ) r C FI A P. XIII. 7/-e People of If' Icananilh Ufi chilizcd thanthofe at Nooth.-~Cerfain)icc:i^tir\ Vrecaut'ton's give offence to, and occajion a Coolnefs between us and the ChieJ. — Good Vnderfanding rejlored, and the Treaty of Frkndpip renewed. — Reciprocal Prefents pafs on the OccaJion.—'The Ufe of Fire arms known to theje People. — The Vdlage removes to a fnall Dijlance. — Treaty between ■ IJ'ieanani/l:, Hunna and Detootche.— Prefents on the Occafion Good Confcquences rcfulting to us from the Treaty. — Prefents made to and received from Wic.manif.—Prtfent arrives from King George's Sr,und, ^c.—Pre- fa'-e for Sea. — The Felice pr creeds on her Foyage. — Defcription of Port Ccx, Sf. isc. ON the firfl: view, the fubjc£l:s of this chief appeared to be far lefs civilized than our friends at Nootka ; we therefore proportionably encreafcd our precautions. — Their numbers were very confiJcrable, and the boldnefs they difcovercd in all their tranf.iflions with us, gave us reafon to believe, tliu any relaxation of our vigilance might tempt them to a condu£l which would produce difagrceable confcquences to us all. Befides, both in f.igaclty, as well as aiflivity, they were very fuperior to the inhabitants of King George's Sound.— Wicananifh, himfelf, though rather inclined to be corpulent, was athletic and adive ; — his brothers, pofleffed the fame advantages ; and all the young men were robuft, in a continual ftate of excrcife, and enured to conftant labour. We ob- ferved, that the moft tempeftuous weather never prevented them from going tofea, to ftrike the whale or kill the otter: — fifliing was an occu- 5 pation \i NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. pation which was followed only by the inferior clafTes of the people. — The dominiotis of this chief were very extenfive, and the numerous tribes who acknowledged his dominion, rendered him a very powerful fovereign. We, therefore, had fufficient renfon to remain in a ftate of preparation againft the poUibility of that mifchief which it was in his power to do us, nnd which opportunity miglu tempt him to employ. »45 1788. JUNI. This vigilance on our part, which was confidered by the chief as dif- truft in his fricndfliip, gave him great offence, and occationed a fliort coolnefs between us. — On tiie zirt, Wicananifli obferved that whenever SunJ*y >• lie paid us a vifit the great cabin was decorated with arms, and that fe- veral blunderbufles, &c. were placed on the deck ; and not only left the fliip in great anger, but refuled to trade with us himfelf, and for- bade his people from bringing us any fupplies of fifli or vegetables.— It was not, however, by any means, our intereft that things fliould remain in this unpleafant, as well as inconvenient fituation ; it was therefore thought prudtnt to pay him a vifit of peace on the following day ; when, by the Mond«yn conciliating prefent of a fword, with a brafs handle, and a large copper difli, the treaty of friendlhip was renewed ; and this reftoration of good humour was confirmed by a prefent of five beautiful otter Ikins, a fat d9e, and a fupply of fifli for the crew. The generofity, as well as friendly conduft of the chief, on this occafion, feemed to demand an extraordinary exertion of acknowledgment on ours ; and we made him happy beyond expreflion, by adding to his regalia a piftol and two charges of powder ; a prefent which he had long folicited. Indeed the ufe of fire-arms was known to this tribe previous to our arrival among them — When the Refolution and the Difcovcry firft entered King George's Sound, Wicananifli happened to be there, on a vifit to Maquilla, and then acq^uired this unfufpeded branch of knowledge. T On f. ' ii- f^ r-t\n ^1^ ■♦« u 1(1 M t i \ mJ I i 1788. JUNC. II VOYAGES TO THE On the 28th, wc obfervcd that the whole village remored from their cli>rc vicinity to the fca, into the inner port, with the fame eafy transfer whicli we had obfcrved on a fiinllar occafion, at Nootka, and took up thtlr new pofition about a mile from the fhip, on a point of land, juft within the entrance of the iiarbour. We were now formally made acquainted by Wicananilh, that a treaty was negotiating between the chiefs Hanna and IXtootche and himfelf, in which we were to be included ; the fubftancc of which was, — that all the furs then in thiir poffeflion fliould be fold to Wlcananifh ; — that they ihould live in peace and friendfliip with us ; — that all the otter (kins pro- cured after the completion of the treaty, by either of the contradling chiefs, or their people, (hould be difpofcd of by themfclves, and that they were all to liave common accefs to the fhip, where a fair and equi- table market was to be opened for them without diftin^Jtion. From the jcaloufy which we already knew to fubfift between thefe chiefs, we were pcrfedly fatisficd, as we fince had convincing proofs, that, on our entering the territories of Wicai .inifli, neither Hanna or Detootche would be permitted to trade with, or even pay us a vifit with- out having obtained a previ.^us permiflion for that purpofe. VVc had not therefore urged or encouraged an intercourfe, which, though it would have been very advantageous to us, might, and moft probably would have brought on a war between the refpeifVive fovereigns. This treaty, therefore, gave us that extenfion of commerce which we fomuch wilhed, in the regular courfe of friendly negotiation, and we were not backward in forwarding the completion of it. This treaty, which was managed with all the addrefs of refined policy, could not be arranged according to the propofed conditions, without an in- trufion Hi? -a,.. -~— »«i- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. trufion on the trcafurcsof VVicauaniih, to wliith he knew not how to fub- mit 5 and this was no Icfs than a dcmaml of the copper tca.kcttles he fo highly vahicd : but as the cefllon of them was made tlic governing article of the negotiation, they were at length, though rcludlantly, configncd to Hanna and Detootche, who immediately gave up all the otter Ikins in their poflcHion. But the chief did not long remain without being fully futisfied by us for the lofs of his favourite vcflels, by our prefcntiug him with Aich articles as would make him ample reparation, and which he, probablv, had in view when he made fuch a facrifice. We therefore, among other things, fcledled fix brafs hiltcd fwords, a pair of piftols, and a mulket, with feveral charges of powder ; and wc would even have replaced the treafures with which his cofFcrs had been fo lately enriched, but not a a fingle kettle was to be found in the fliip. This prefcnt was fcnt on fliorc, and, including the returns to it, wc had now procured an hundred and fifty fine otter Ikins. At this time a canoe very unexpc£lcdly arrived from King George's Sound, with a prefent of fifli from Maquilla, who had been made ac- quainted with all our motions, from the time wc left his territories. By the fame opportunity wc had the pleafurc of heariag that our party were well, and continued to make fpecdy advances tov.ards the comple- tion of the veflel : as one of the people, who was rather more intelligent than the reft, by mcafuring a certain number of fpans, contrived to in- form us of the adlual ft?te of the little mamatlee, as he called her ;— by which we underftood that her floor-timbers were laid. The objeft of our touching at this port being now fulfilled, by having procured all the furs in the poffellion of Wicananifli, with fome confiderable fupplies of the fame kind, from Hanna and Detootche, we now prepared to put tofea, to explore the coaft to the Southward of this port. On the 28th, T 3 the '47 1788. JUMU. -k \ ^:«( 148 1788. JUME.. VOYAGESTOTHE the ffiip was warped out of the inner harbour over the bar, and, in the evening, the roadded was cleared ; when we purfued. our courfe along fhore, with a light wefterly breeze and fine weather. The harbour of Wicananifli affords very fecure fhelter, with good anchorage, both in the roads and the inner port. An archipelago of iflands feems to extend from King George's Sound to this place, and ftill further to the Southward. The channels between thefe iflands are in- numerable ; but the necefl'ary occupations of the fliip would not allow us time to fend out boats for thepurpofe of examining them : — as far, how« ever, as our obfervation extended, we are difpofed to believe that there is no channel for fliips but that which we entered, and wliich is an ex? ceeding good one. Thefe iflands are covered thick with wood, with but very few clear fpots, at leaft that we could difcern. The foil is rich, producing wild berries, and other fruit in great abundance. The timber is of uncommon fize, as well as beauty, and applicable to any purpofe : — we faw fre- quent groves, almoft every tree of which was fit for mafls of any di« menfions. Among a great variety of other trees we obferved the red oak» the larch, the cedar, and black and white fpruce fir. In all our commercial tranfa£Hons with thefe people, wewerc, mora or lefs, the dupes of their cunning :_ and with fuch peculiar artifice did they fometimes condu£l themfelves, that all the precaution we could employ, was not fufficient to prevent our being overreached by them. The women, in particular, would play us a thoufand tricks, and treat the difcovery of their finefle with an arch kind of pleafantry that baffled reproach. — They were very fuperior in perfonal charms to the ladies of Nootka, and pofTefled a degree of modefly which is not often to be 1 found ^ ) NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »49 found among the favage nations, — No entreaty or temptation in our 1788. power could prevail on them to venture ou board the Aiip. But their beauty was deftroyed by the filthy application of oil and ochre, and a general inattention to that cleanlinefs which Europeans confider as eff.'V;.' ■) female charms. We had an opportunity of feeing an in- ftance of their delicacy, which, from its fingularity, may not be thought unworthy of a relation. Among other vifitors of the (hip, we were one day very much furprlfed by the appearance of a canoe paddled along by women, and containing about twenty of that fex, without a fingle perfon of the other. As we had never feen a canoe fo freighted before, it very much engaged our attention ; and, while we were contemplating this company of ladies, a young man leaped fuddenly among them from another canoe ; at which they were fo alarmed, that, though they were clad in their beft array, they all threw themfclves, in an inftant, into the fea, and fwam in a body to the Ihore. The people of Wicananlfli are alfo very fuperior in point of induftry and adivity to thofc of King George's Sound. At break of day, without regard to the weather, the village was always empty; the men were employed hi killing the whale, hunting the fea otter, or cp.tching fifh, and the women were in the woods, gathering berries, or traverllng the fands and rocks in fearch of cray and IhcU-fifii. During our ftay liere, many ftrangers arrived from the Southern part of the coaft, on purpofe to vifit us • but they were not only forbidden to trade, but to have any communication with us ; to which regulation we thought it prudent to fubmit. Thefe vifits were very beneficial to Wi- cananifh, and raifed his importance with us, as we found that all thefe people, coming from various and diftant diftrids, were fubjefl: to his power. k I' ^. ^ Ui"i aa, 'I 150 1788. June. VOYAGES TO THE ' power. Befides the two villages already mentioned, he had fevcral other plnces of refidence, to which he occafionally refoited, according to the feafon of the year, the calls ofneceflity, or the invitations ofpleafure. In one of thefe places we reckoned twenty-fix 'houfes, each of which were capable of containing an hundred inhabitants. In ftiort, fuch was the power and extcnfivc territory of Wicananifti, that it was very much our intercft to conciliate his regard and cultivate his friendfhip. mi i>„ CHAP. \ ; NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XIV. »5« 178a. Juki. Purfue our Courfe to the Southward along the Coaji. —Numerous Viltages- feated on the Shore. ^fhe Inhabitants come off to the Ship, and their Difap' pjintment at our not coming to an Anchor. — Difcover the Straits of Juan de Fuca. — Their Extent and Situation.-^'The Natives ccme off to the Ship. — T'atootchc comes on board. — A Defer ipt ion of him. — Long-boat difpatched to find an Anchorage , and its Return. — Bad Behaviour of the Natives. — Pur- fue our Courfe along the CoaJi. — Short Account of the Straits (f Juan de Fuca, — Jfland of Tatootchc paffed. — Natives come off to the Ship, (Sc. — Pafs numerous Villages. — Dangerous Coafl. — Violence of the South Eajl Storms. — Cape Flattery.— Village of Clqffett. — Ship enters the Bay of ^ecnhithe. — Savage Appearance of the Place. — Seethe Village of ^leeneute II. — Dejiruiiion IJle. — Danger of the Ship, &c. ^c W 7 E now left Wicananilh, and during the night of the 28th we ' ^ fleered Eaft South Baft, within three leagues of the land ; and on the morning of the 2. i i ii ■ in i NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. By three o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived at the entrance of the great inlet already mentioned, which appeared to be twelve or fourteen leagues broad. . From the maft-head it was obferved to ftretch to the Eafl by North, and a clear and unbounded horizon was feen in this di> region as far as the eye could reach. We frequently founded, but could procure no ground with one hundred fathoms of line. About five o'clock we hove to ofFa fmall ifland, fituated about two miles from the Southern land, that formed the entrance of this ftrair, near which we faw a very remarkable rock, that wore the form of an obeliik, and flood at fome diflance from the ifland. »53 1788. Jvire. «, In a very Ihort time we were furrounded by canoes filled with people of a much more favage appearance than any we had hitherto feen. They were principally cloathed in fea otter fkins, and had their faces grimly bedaubed with oil and black and red ochre. Their canoes were large, and held from twenty to thirty men, who were armed with bows, and arrows barbed with bone, that was ragged at the points, and with large fpears pointed with mufcle-fliell. We now made fail to clofe in with this ifland, when we again hove to about two miles from the fliore. The ifland itfelf appeared to be a barren rock, almoft inacceflible, and of no great extent ; but the furface of it, as far as we could fee, was covered with inhabitants, who were gazing at the fliip. We could by no means reconcile the wild and un- cultivated appearance of the place, with fuch a flourifliing ftate of population. Thechiefof this fpot, whofe name is Tatootche, did us the favour of a vifit, and fo furly and forbidding a charafter we had not yet feen. U His '<. *'> '-'i '*misn ~ -. ' ' B '■ HBv ' il 'iwfl 1 ' [ I'JiJ • itiM' a irmm.. 1 'm V ^„ '< ' M 7A1 I '■ "t 1, J •T 1 1 1 ■ I »54 1 WS- f ■ i m r 1788. JVMI. V O YAG E S T O T H E His face had no variety of colour on it, like the reft of the people, but was entirely black, and covered with a glittering faiid, which added to the favage Hercenefs of his appearance. lie informed us that the power of VVicanani(h ended here, and that we were now within the limits of his government, which extended a confiderahle way to the Southward.— On receiving this information, we made him a fmall prefent, but he did not make us the leaft return, nor could he be perfuaded to let his peo- ple trade with us. We had, indeed, already received fome account of this chief from Wicananifti, who advifed us to be on our guard againfl him and his people, as a fubtle and barbarous nation. It was our design, if poflible, to caft anchor here, and, with this view, the long-boat was manned and armed, and fent under the direc- tion of a proper officer, to found between the ifland and the main, in order to find an anchoring-ground. The ftrongeft injunctions were given to avoid, if poflible, any dlfpute with the natives, and a fmall portion of trading articles was put in the boat, in cafe the natives fliould be inclined to barter. ' ' After the departure of the long-boat for the fliore, which was followed by all the canoes, we kept tacking occafionally near the ifland, which we had now an opportunity of examining with fome degree of minute* nefs ; and, in whatever diredion we beheld it, it appeared to be a barren rock, furrounded with reefs, on which the fea broke with great fury. We, however, had fome hope that, between it and the main, a place of Ihelter and fecurity might be found, as the fituation would have been very convenient, not only for the purpofe of exploring the ftrait, but alfo for the extenfion of our particular commerce. About ¥ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. About fevcn in the evening, the long-boat returned without having found any place fit for anchorage, and having procured but 'i^ry few furs. The ifland, as the oflficcr informed us, was not of a deceitful ap- pearance ; it was a folid rock, covered with a little verdure, and furrounded by breakers in every direction. A great crowd of canoes came off to the boat, filled with armed people, who behaved in a very dilbrderly man- ner; feveral of whom jumped into the boat, and took fome trifling arti- cles away by force, and then triumphed in their theft. Our people were highly enraged at this condud, and fully difpofed to retaliate; — but the prudence of the officer kept them quiet, who, bting fearful of fbme unpleafant event, had no fuoner made the necefl'ary examination^ than he returned on board. »55 1788. J f N r . I *vl . We were perfe£lly convinced tiiat Wicananifli had drawn from this chief a confiderable quantity of his furs, as we obferved many of our articles about them, which they could not have obtained but from Port Cox or King George's Sound. One of the natives in particular was in polTenion of a complete fet of coat buttons, which was very fiimillar to the memory of us all. Being thus difappointed in obtaining an harbour here, we continued our courfe to the Southward, and examined the coaft with great attention, in expectation of finding a place of fecurity, from whence our boats would be enabled not only to examine this ftralt, but other confiderable por- tions of the coaft. With this view we made fail about eight in the evening, and ftood along the (hore, with pleafant and moderate weather. The ftrongeft curiofity impelled us to enter this ftrait, which we fliall call by the name of its original difcoverer, John De Fuca. Ua Some "~*^*^ 41 inW* — * )t^* Ji'^'rft^'*^'*- rj\».'^''V i ,ry--ii"Mr of WLktuyt ^UJtS . ' I, , •c^l the rtlWjJilc;? • 1 • \\ui iiov IV ^i»t rii the n-ortnn;^ of the ^.nh n^-'jlutw, w i Eii '/Wx \\r (|nArati''ii 1 iSii'Mation-^ itbf anient t\^^v frintctj, frocn the lar.a, us it r/ati cctlin du»iji»^ tlw ^loalrr pa \of t^ u-gifcc.- • ..t- 4., «?it';'-"'t -''^v, .M?* >Jr'*t »^«Br7»*'^'^*f''?-r *l Vi \ \ \ I ■ ' rij»!raf«jii by tbe coa.'ii^Jt or I' ■r fo pjvltc him on board, ''{ht | itv ' whj< 1 Uid n«K differ much 'rrfH«t^v»|**f<» >**mv4 Bui *jKtntdcd as wc fijight n ' ! 'ild ^ chiiOVed.by tlieif n-'' ' • • i i t , s uje vjt:^ and foratbr- V f ! f- .\a4 lai^jti^ «4K a^mfi t pi . -.>>'• + ....--,,■..: t-r A «-i>-. I \ 1\ \ / \ A 1 1 mm 1 mw f T r; ''' ' h \ 1 i' /•IV •/ -.r/./. ■ I i- ■♦ mk. I., NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. were, through a folitary ocean ; in fuch a fituation the fimple melody of nature, proceeding in perfed); unifon and exa£t meafure from four hun- dred voices, feund its way to our hearts, and at the fame moment awa- kened and becalmed the painful thought. About noon, a gentle breeze fprung up, when we continued our courfe tO' the Southward along the fhore, at about the didauce of three miles, and the natives of Tatootche returned to their ifland. As we fleered onwards, canoes continually came off from the villages, which we obferved from time to time, on the high banks clofe to the fea. The people in the different boats invited us in the moft earneft man- ner, to fteer in for their refpeftive villages ; but no means we employed, and we took fome pains to efFeft it, could prevail on any of them to venture on board the fliip. The appearance of the land was wild in the extreme, — immenfe fo» refts covered the whole of it within our fight, down to the very beach^. which was lofty and cragged, and againft which the fea dafhed with fear- ful rage. The (hore was lined with rocks and rocky iflets, nor could we perceive any bay or inlet that feemed to pro'."nife the leaft'fecurity to the fmallefl veffel : and unlefs there were fome narrow coves, which were rmperceptible to us, we knew not how the natives could find a fhelter,. even for their canoes ; yet the villages we faw were neither inconfiderable in extent or in number. As we fleered along, the force of Southerly florms was evident to every eye ; large and extenfive woods being laid flat by their power, the branches forming one long line to the North Weft, intermingled with roots of innumerable trees, which had been torn from their beds, and helped to mark the furious Courfe of thefc tem- pefts ; whofe violence may be conceived, when we reflcft on the great I extent '57 1788. JVMI. i ' 1] 158 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. extent of ocean over which they blow, without a fuigle obje<£l to impede J"""- their progrefs or break their violence. , „, ■^ i.y- I: i About fevcn in the evening, wc had a diftant fight of Cape Flattery, fo named, as it was iirft fcen, by Captain Cook. It bore South Eaft half Eaft, at the diftance of fix leagues. This head-land is laid down in the latitude of 48" 5' North, and longitude 235° 3' Eaft of Greenwich. — In our accounts there was a very little difference, but we are moft wil- ling to place the error on our fiilc. We had alfo a near view of the village of Claflet, which is fituatcd on a:i high and ftcep rock clofe to the fea. Though this place appeared to "be of confiderable extent, one canoe only came ofFto us, containing thirty men clad in Ikins of the rea.oitcr. tk^^^ ■■kt J,-: Y. 1 iicfilav 1 The coaft from Cape Flattery fcemed now to trend entirely to tlie Southward ; nor could we perceive any opening or inlet wliatever, that promifed to afford us a place of flielter. As it was our defign to make a particular examination of this coaft, the ftiip was hove to at funfct, for the night. This part of the coaft was lined with rocks, and feveral breakers ran ofFChflet, at about the diftance of half a mile. At day-break, we refumed our courfe, Cape Flattery bearing North North Weft, having been drifted in the night to the Southward. The weather bore a very unfcttled appearance, and it blew ftrong from the Weft South Weft, wlilch was nearly on the ftiore. At feven, the bay ofQueenhithe opened to our view, which we entered with all thofe unpleafing fenfations which may be fuppofed to arife from the reflexion, that we were approaching the place where, and the people by whom, tlie crew of the boat belonging to the Imperial Eagle were maffacred. As ) if I'm '< H. mm \ I H ' "I NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. As we fteered along jthe fhore, we obferved the fmall river and ifland of Queenhithe ; but it became, on a fudden, fo thick and gloomy, that the land, which was at about four miles diftance from us, was fcarcely difcernible. Wc fiiw neither canoes or inhabitants, and an awful filence reigned around us. But though the village of Queenhithe was obfcured from our view, we could very plainly difcern the town of Qviecnuicttr, which is diilant from it about fcven or eight miles. It is fituatcd on an high perpendicular rock, and is joined by a narrow and im- pregnable caufcway, twenty feet in height, to the main land, which is an entire foreft. With our glafles we obferved a multitude of houfes fcattered over the face of the rock. As we advanced, Deftrudlion Ifland was fcen at the diftance of about a mile, fituated in the middle of the bay, and diftant from the main land about two miles: it is low and flat, and without a fingle tree ; it however prefented us tlie rare and pleafiint fight of a confiderable fpace covered with verdure ; and appeared to be furroundcd by breakers, on which an heavy fea rolled, occa- fioned by the South Weft wind. In this pofition we had ten f\thomi over a muddy bottom. »59 1788. Jwtr. r About eleven o'clock the wind veered to the South Weft, which brought thick weather and rain, and we found ourfelves completely embayed, — a fituation we fliould very gladly have avoided. An heavy fwell idrtady rolled info the bay, which promil'ed to prevent us very effctflually from coming to anchor, particularly if It blew from the South Weft quarter, being dlredly on the land, which to the South- ward was in fuch a diredlion, that a South Eaft courfe would not weather any part of it; nor, on the other tack, could we hope to wea- ther the Wefterly land, on account of the great Wefterly fwell. In this fituation we ftood, as the better tack, to the South South Eaft, until noon ; when, being within half a mile of the fliore, we 5 were 'W^' m •l It V * V i6o VOYAGES TO THE 1788. July. were o^bligad to tack, and ftand to the Weft North Wefl : our foundings were fifteen and eight fathoms clofe to the land, which was covered with wood to the water's edge. We remarked, however, that the beach was not very fteep, and here and there we obferved fome bare and fandy patches. ^ , * ^t: • ^1 .ff We now kept under a prefs of fail, as it blew very flrong ; nor dared we even to take in a reef of the top -fall ; befides the weather was fo thick, that we could not fee a mile a-head of the (hip. We, how- ever, imagined that we (hould be able to weather Deftru£lion Ifland, and continued under this croud of fail to avoid the danger before us ; when, at one o'clock, it cleared up for a moment, and we faw the ifland a point under our lee-bow, at the diflance of a mile and an half, an heavy fea drifting us faft in with the fhore. There was now nothing to be done, but to caft anchor, which wc prepared to do in the wildeft place we ever beheld, — and where we were morally certain our anchors could not hold, though the bottom was mud, from the ftrong tumbling in of an heavy fea. In this (ituation, — the diflrefs of which was not a little enhanced by the refledllon that we were on a fliore whofe barbarity our countrymen had already experienced, — ten minutes muft have decided our fate : when providentially the wind, on a fudden, veered to the South South Eaft, which enabled us to tack and Aeer off the ihore with a flowing iheet, and happy in the profpedt of procuring an offing before night ; — for I believe there was not a perfon on board the fliip who had not re- flected on the melancholy poffibility of his becoming a victim to the cannibals of Queenhithe. CHAP. ^ ...„«.. 2a -«C .gg.^.^L. .,. , ^V-: «?* ^ *^flMi**f* 1 --«• '•^^ — «i*i^*aBi&;: Ui 1/ * * I n-1. f ^ I ( ^ ■!, ■!/,W/trrs A'/v .V .V/; ,//./ '.(■/,.. ,./,//y ■^ . lA.z; -f-^ "' '7- rf<*hw « M n »i < ri W -!*•- I- UiiJ ■.:;»/.*:" n* <•♦ » • •*fjj«flfr g^j- , -Mf^jlji. ^ t-^*, ■,- •■;•' hyi^riur I .-7 • - A*> «i*y #•«¥ Mr* »A*< t-J't/l?. -^Bei^it/ui f P'3^;'.;/t if^ /i,^ Ask:''!?'..-?'/ ^PtttM^t 1^* .* -f •■ntiiicn'-. ^ •i(**'-.««»r^ ■ -nv m'm^i'i of ai;r crcw;>arKi h'An^ \ \ tsf tarliarity vv;i8 coraanttc<3, the JU" ofH«*&ij^ tia«; ;• •— )1g, >.... ^':-!0Lk .J _, ilO aiQt!Gikl~.,|." / • ; ■■■,■,'.1 r ■ , • f i\ i /■ ■ > V ■H: « -- B- « -^rr '.V )'» !l!»' I •■*■ f( ill ^ k ai>»tt<*«'A' • !/'»"T: I >j »» .V ••' ^ »lv V /(>«?•' \ >" .r"//y.//.v.i.////l \'l •>■»♦. ^^i't^"— ii ^ i' ' ■ ! «■ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. r«f C n A P. XV. 1783. Jul I, Our Progrefs along the Coaji.'—D'tfcover Shoalwater Bay, which is inacceJfibU to the Ships. — Natives come off.-^'Their honcji Dealing. — Some /Account of them. — JFie furjue our Courfe. — Deception Bay. — Dijfercnce betxvcen the Spanifl) Charts of Maurelie and the real Situation of the Conjl, — Beautiful Appearance of the Country . — Pifs S^uickfand Bay and Cape Lo'jk-out. — See three remarkable Rocks. — Clofe our Progrefs to the Southwnrd. — Future Plan of proceeding.'— Knowledge gained of the Coajl.— Parts left unexplored by Captain Cook now vifited.—Reafons for returning I0 the Northward.-^ Purfue our Courfe to the North.— Strait of John de Fucaficn again.— 'An- chor in Port Effingham. — A Defcription of it, tic. — Marine Animals feen, tic. ■ I * Si 1 ■ npHE wretched fate of the people belonging to the Imperial Eagle, ■^ evidently predominated in the minds of our crew ; and being on the very coaft where fuch an adt of barbarity was committed, the in- fedious apprehenfion of a fimilar deftrudion fprcad pjcncrally amongft them. It was the common fubjeft of their difcourfc, and had fuch an influence on their fpirits, as to endanger the lofs of the fhip, in a man< ncr which will be related hereafter. We continued (landing to fea all the evening of the fitftof July, when, at midnight, being of opinion that we had fufficient ofllng, wo wore and flood in again for the land. At one o'clock in t!ie moining, the wind "veered to the Weft South Weft, which encouraged us to hope for a fufficient degree of favourable weather, to continue our examination of the coaft. X On I^i i H y I > ^ V O YAG E S T O T H E 1788. On the morning of the 2(1, at feven o'clock, we agam faw the land iy fj" bearing Eaft, at the diftance of fcvcn leagues, which wc judged to be a little to the Southward and Eaftward of Queenhithe. This land was very remarkable from its having tlie appearance of a faddle, and that part of it obtained the name of Saddle Hill. We computed it to be in the la- titude of 46° 30' North, and longitude of 235' 20' Eaft of Greenwich. We ftood to clofe in with it, when it appeared to be the Southernmoft point we had feen the preceding day, from Defttudtion Ifland. The wind veered ag.Vm to the South South Eaft, and at once damped our hopes of fa- vourable weather. Heavy rain with a thick fog Aicceeded, which obliged us to tack and ftand again to fea. The bad weather continued all this day, with an heavy fea from the Weftward, that endangered the long- boat, which we had towed aftern ever Hnce our departure from King George's Sound. It was, therefore,, impoftible for us to encounter the land without running into extreme danger. Befides, the moon was now near its change, a period which, according to our obfervations, never failed in thefe feas to bring bad weather along with it. We therefore carried a prefs of fail, to obtain a good diftance from the land ; which was, at this time, an objciSt of no> common confequence. Thurfday 3 On the 3d at noon, we had a glimpfe of the fun, and the latitude was. 47" 46' North. The wind ftiifted to the South Weft, on which we tacked and ftuod to the South South Eaft, immediately in for the land. We now were at about the diftance of twenty leagues from Cape Flattery. II \ ^'o Friday 4 During the night the weather was moderate and clear, and on the 4th the wind ftiifted to the South Eaft ; when we again tacked and ftood to the Eaft North Eaft, in order to near the land. We ftood thus till fix o'clock in the evening, when the laud was feen bearbg from North to ^"•! \\ i mmf.r • '-^'■«- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i6j to North Eaft. In the Northern quarter it was of a great height, and 1788. covered with fnow. This mountain, from its very confpicuous fituation, and immenfe height, obtained tlie nanne of Mount Olympus. We com- puted it to be in the latitude of 47° 10' North, and longitude 335* Ead of Greenwich. In the North Eaft it ft retched itfelf out to a point, which we judged to be in the latitude of 47° 20' North. We kept Siturj«y 1 ftnnding in for the land, during the night, with a light breeze from the South Eaft ; and at fun-rife on the 5tli, it bore from North by Weft, to Eaft by North, our diftance off ftiore being 1 2 leagues ; Co that in the night we had been affe£led by a confidcrable current, which had fct us from the land. At noon the latitude was 47" 1' North, ami the lofiy mountains fecn on the preceding day, bore Eaft North Eaft, diftant feven leagues.— Our diftance might be four leagues from the ftiore, which appeared to run in the direction of Eaft South Eaft, and Weft North Weft, and there appeared to be a large found or opening in this diretflion. By two o'clock, wc were within two miles of the ftiore, along which we failed, which appeared to be a perfetfl foreft, without the veftige of an habitation. The land was low and flat, and our foundings were from fifteen to twenty fathoms over an hard fand. As we were fteering for the low point which formed one part of the entrance into the bay or found, we ftioaled our water gradually to fix fathoms, when breakers were feen to extend in a direiftion quite acrofs it, fo that it appeared to be inaccefiTible to fliips. We immediately hauled off the fliore until we deepened our water to fixteen fathoms. This point obtained the name of Low Point, and the bay that of Shoal- water Bay ; and an head- land that was high and bluff, which formed the other entrance, was alfo named Cape Shoal water. The head-land we judged to be in tlie lati- tude of 46" 47' North, and the longitude 235° 1 1' Eaft of Greenwich. ' X 2 The .•:-5CK;^ ' J y': 164 VOYAGES TO THE The dlrtancc fiom Low Point to Cape Shoal-water was too great to atiiiiit of an ohf-ivation In our prcfent fituation. The (hoals ftill appeared to run from (horc to fliore; but wlien we were about midway, we agaux bore up near them, in order to difcover if there might not be a channel nf.u" tlic cape : we accordingly fleered in for the moutli of tlie bay, when wc fhoaled our water to eight fiithoms. At this time the breakers were not more than three miles from us, and appeared to extend to Cape Shoal- water, when it was thougl-.t prudent again to haul off. From the maft- head it was oblervcd that this bay extended a conllderable way inland, fpreadiiig into fcveral arms or branches to the Northward and Eaftward, The back of it was bounded by high and mountainous land, which was at a great dillancj from us. A narrow entrance appeared to the North Well, but it was too remote for us difcover, even with glafles, whether it was a river or low land. 4 t) i'l 1,1 11 \Vc had concluded that this wild and defolate fliorc was without inha- bitants, but this opir'on proved to be erroneous; for a canoe now came off to us from the point, with a man and boy. On their approach to the Ihip, they held up two fea otter Ikins ; we therefore hove to, when they came alongfide and took hold of a rope, but could not be perfuaded to come on board. We then faftencd fcveral trifling articles to a cord, and threw them over the llde ol the fliip, v. hen they were inftantly and eagerly lei zed by the boy, and delivered by him to the man ; who did not helltate a moment to tie the two otter Ikins to the cord, and waved his hand ai a fign for us to take them on board, — which was ac- cordingly done, and an additional preient immediately conveyed to hhn in the fame manner as the former. Thcfc flrangers appeared to be highly delighted with their unexpeiJled trcafure, and fcemed, at firft, to be wholly ablorbed in their attention to Ul9 I '/ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 165 the articles which compofed it ; but their curiofiry was in a ftiort time 1-88. entirely traiisLrrcd to the (hip, and their eyes ran over every part of J""-*"* it with a moft rapid tranfition, while their adions exprcflcd fuch extreme admirfition and aftoniflimcnt, as gave us every reafon to conclude that this was the firft time they had ever been gratified with the fight of fuch an obje have fent the long- boat to found near the (hoals, in order to difcover if there was any chan- nel ; but the weather was fo cloudy, and, altogether, had Co unfettled an appearance, that we were difcouraged from executing fuch a defign.— Nothing, therefore, was left for us but to coaft it along the fhore, and endeavour to rind fome place where the (hip might be brought to a fecure anchorage. We therefore continued our courfe ; and, by feven o'clock, we were at no great dlftance from Cape Shoal-water, when we again had a clear and diftinft view of the bay and (hoals. — Our depth of water was (ixteen fathoms, over a fandy bottom, and the land extended to the Eaft South Eaft, from the Cape, from which we were diftant three leagues. The land to the Southward made like iflands, but that circumfVance was at- tributed to the fog, which now came thick upon us. As night came on the (hip was hauled off (hore and hove to, to await the return of day- light. Sunday 6 fj^g moming of the 6th was very unfavourable to the bufinefs of making difcoveries ; -the viiiid veered to the North, and blew very ftrong, with a great fea;— Cape Shoal-water bore Eaft by North fix leagues; and the laud was everywhere covered with a thick mift ; we therefore did not bear up till nine o'clock, when the mift cleared from off the land.— As we approached it our foundings were very regu- lar, from forty to fixteen fathoms, over a fandy bottom.— At half paft ten, r <>«■«■■■) j liiiiiii H I ■y— . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ten, being wiihin three leagues of Cape Shoal water, we had a perfeft view of it ; and, with the glafles, we traced the line of coaft to the Southward, which prefented no opening that promifed any thing like an harbour. An high bluff promontory bore off us South Eaft, at the dif- tance of only four leagues, for which we fleered to double, with the hope that between it and Cape Shoal-water, we (hould find fome fort of harbour. We now difcovered diftant land beyond this promontory, and we pleafed ouifelves with the expetflation of its being Cape Saint Roc of tlie Spaniards, near which they are faid to have found a good port. By half part eleven we doubled this cape, at the dlftance of three miles, having a clear and pcrfedl view of the fhore in every part, on whicli we did not difccrn a living creature, or the leaft trace of habitable life. A prodigious Eafterly fwell rolled on the fhore, and the foundings gradually decrealed from forty to fixteen fathoms, over a hard, fandy bottom. After we had rounded the promontory, a large bay, as we had imagined, opened to our view, that bore a very promifing appearance,, and into which we ftecred with every encouraging expedlation. 167 1788. B m The high land that formed the boundaries of the bay, was at a great diftance, and aflat level country occupied the intervening fpace : the bay itfelftook rather a wcfterly dirtdioii. As wc fleered in, t!je water flioaled to nine, eight, and fevcn fathoms, when breakers were feeii from the deck, right a-head ; and, from the maft-hcad, they were obfervcd to extend acrofs the bay. We therefore hauled cut, and dlrefted ourcourfe to the oppofite (bore, to fee if there was any channel, or if \vc could difcover •any port. The name of Cape" Difappointment was given to the promontory, and the bay obtained the title of Deception Bay. By an indifferent meridian I obfervation,. 1' 'I ^ 1 68 VOYACiES TO THE * I 1788. JULV. t , obfervation, it lies in tlie latitude of 46° 10' North, and in the computed longitude of 235" 34' Enll. We can now with fafety afTcrt, that there is no fuch river as that of Saint Roc c-xifts, as laid down in the Spanifli charts : to thofc of iNlaurelle we made continual reference, but withoui. derivuig any information or afllftance from them. We now reached the oppofite fide of the bay, where difappointment continued to accompany us ; and being alnioft certain that there we fliould obtain no place of Iheltcr for the fliip, we bore up for a diftant head-land, keeping our courfc within two miles of the (hore. The face of the country, however, aflumed a very diih.rent appearance from that of the Nortliern coafl:. Many beautiful fpots, covered with the fined verdure, folicited our attention ; and the land rofe in a very gradual afcent to the diftant mountains, (kirtcd by a white fandy beach down to the fea. As we failed along, fpacious lawns and hanging- woods everywhere met the delighted eye, — but not an human being appeared to inhabit the fertile country of New Albion. As we thus purfued our courfe along the fliore, obferving every part of it with themofl: minute attention, a large opening appeared a-head, which once more animated our hopes, and formed a new fource of difappoint- ment. Ill the offing it blew very ftrong, and a great wefterly fwell tumbled in on the land. By feven o'clock we were abreaft of this open- ing, the mouth of which, to our great mortification, was entirely clofed by a low fandy beacli, nearly level with the fea, which appeared to flow over it, and form an extenfive back-water :— beyond it an open champaign country extended to a confiderablc diftance, where it was confined by a boundary of lofty mountains. The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, The bny was named by us Quickfand Bay, and an adjoining head- land Cape Grenville ; — the diftant Southerly head-land, we called Cape Look-out. This cape is very high and blufF, and terminates abruptly in the fea. At about the diftance of two miles from it there rofe three Inrge rocks, which were very remaikable, fiom the great refeinblaiice they bore to each other. — The middle one has an arch- way, perforated, as it were, in its centre, through which we very plainly difcovered the diftant fea. — They more particularly attracted our notice, as we had not obferved between King George's Sound and this place, any rocks fo confpicuoufly fituated from the land : —their diftance frona each other mii^ht be about a quarter of a mile, and we gave them the name of the Three Brothers. By eight In the evening we were within three leagues of Cape Look- out, which we judge to lie in the latitude of 45° 30' North, and in the longitude of 235° 50' Eaft of Greenwich. We were now convinced that there was no opening between the Cape and Quickfand Bay. As we had met with nothing but difcouragement, wc here gave up all further purfuit, and clofed our progrefs to the Southward : — we therefore hauled our wind, in order to proceed again to the Northward. It was our intention to take our courfe to the great bay or found which we had pafled the day after our departure from Port Cox, and from whence a large company of the natives came off to us. This bay had, in- deed, been already vifited by tlie flilp Imperial Eagle, where we had found a fccure anchorage : from thence we propofed to fend the long-boat, in order to explore the ftraits, and to afcertain whether the inhabitants were a people diftin*St from thofe of Nootka Sound. ¥ Wc 169 1788. July. ■ : ■ 1/ 170 1788. Juir. V O YAG E S TO THE We had now obtained no Inconfiderable knowledge of the Coaft of America, from King George's Sound to Cape Look>out : that is, from the latitude of 45" 37' North, to the latitude of 49" 37' North.— We had not only traced every part of a coaft which unfavourable weather had prevented Captain Cook from approaching, but had alfo afcertained the real exiftence of the Strait of John de Fuca, which now renewed its claim to our attention. We moft anxioufly wifhed to have con- tinued our inquifitive courfe to the Southward, as far, at leaft, as lati- tude 42", where it is faid Captain Caxon found a good harbour; but the feafon was already fo much advanced, that had we gone fo far to the Southward, we fhould not have been able to return to King George's Sound before the equino£lial gales fet in ; — a feafon to be dreaded on this coaft, more efpccially when we knew of nO' harbour where we could take refuge againft the violence of it : — Befides, we were influenced- by a very natural anxiety concerning the party we had left at Nootka : — they might have been in want of our affiftance, and various circumftances might have arifen, which, would render our return of importance ta them, at leaft before the month of September :— Befides, if we had purfued our courie to the Southward, we ftiould hav« been altogether prevented from examining the ftralt; as the bad weatlier which we had every reafon tg believe we ftiould' experience on.our return, mij^-jit, and in all probability would, prolong the courle of it to the middle of Auguft. — As it was, we fcldom enjoyed a fucceflion of three days without cither fog or rain. The equino£lial gales blow with great fury on the coaft of America, and' generally let in from the loth to the J5th of September, We were therefore apprehenfive that they might drive us off the coiift, and force us, perhaps, to fteer to the -Sandwich Iflands, and, of courfe, .0 leave the party at Nootka in a fituation of difficulty and danger. *^ ^ Such % •-a*. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Such were the rcafons which determined us to return to the North, and to keep King George's Sound open, at all events, let the winds or weather be what they might. This meafure was alfo effentially neceflary, as it was already agreed that on the 20th of September one of the (hips ' (hould leave the American coaft on her return to China ; but before this part of our expedition could be put in execution, the new veflel was to be launched and equipped for fea, and near three thoufand fathoms of cordage manufa£tured, — a budnefs which would employ a .Tiore nume- rous crew than our fliip contained. 171 Bl 'I 1788. July. At fun-rife of the yth.Cape Look-out was feen, bearing Eaft by South, MoiHtajrT at the diftance or twelve leagues. Our latitude at noon was 45° 12' North, and the variation of the compafs only 16" 10' Eaft. It was the loth of July before we again made the land, when at noon Thurf. ^ 1.0 I.I 125 US ■tt IM 122 Sf |4£ 12.0 li& — 11''^ 1'-^ < 6" ^ Fhotographic Sdences Carporation ^ 3.^^ \ \ \ ^^ ^. ^^ 23 VMBT MAIN STRHT ¥VIISTIR,N.Y. 14SM (71«)S7a-4S03 C^ m VOYAGES TO THE 1788. their woods; with which nature had kindly furniftied every part of the ^^'^^' coaft where we had any communication with the natives of it. It was now the height of fummer, the weather was warm and plea- fant ; and we very fenfibly enjoyed the benign influence of the delightful fcafon. Not a fingle patch of fnow was vifible on thefummits of the I'jfty mountains which furrounded the found. We could not, therefore, but derive a moft refrefhing fatisfatflion from our temporary rcpofe in this calm and charming fituation. I ffi t We embraced the prefent favourable opportunity todifpatch the long- boat, not only to explore the ftraitsof de Fuca, but to procure, If poflible, feme knowledge of the people of Shoalwater-Bay. She was, therefore, properly equipped for the occafion, was manned with thirteen of our people, and furniAied with provifions for a month. The command of her was given to Mr^ Robert Duffin, our firft officer, to whom written iiiftru(£kions were delivered, by which he was to govern himfelf in the conduft of this little expedition.— On the 13th, the boat departed on its voyage of difcovery. The crew employed on this occafion, added to the party we had fpared for the fervice of King George's Sound, had fo diminiHied our (hip's company, that it became abfolutely neceflTary for us to put ourfelves in the beft pofTible ftate of preparation, in cafe our prefent neighbours, who are a numerous, bold, and powerful people, fliould be tempted by a knowledge of our weaknefs to make an attack. All the guns were therefore mounted ; the arms got ready for fervice, and orders iflued that none of the natives (hould, on any pretence whatever, be fuffeted to come on board the (hip. Immc- \ \ ^7S NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Immediately after the departure of the long-boat, a confiderable num- 1788*. ber of canoes from the Northward, came along-fide us, few, if any, of ^'"'^* which contained iefs than thirty men, and many of them more, beiides women and children. Among our vifitors we recolledted the faces of feveral whom we had already feen at Port Cox, of which place they were inhabitants. The others were natives of the Weftern (hore which ftretches down to the (traits, and which forms a part of the extenfive territories of Wicananiih. That prince, it Teemed, had lately given a fplen* did feaft to a large number of his principal fubjeAs ; and from the great quantity of thofe articles he had received from us, which we now perceiv- ed among them, there was every reafon to fuppofe that he had added totho fplendour of his banquet, by dividing his treafures among thofe who had the honour of being invited to it.. Nothing maferial occurred till the 20th : the weather continued to be Sunday so extremely fine, and our communication with the natives was on terms of reciprocal good underftanding. They daily reforted to us with furs, fifh and vegetables, and fometimes an occafional prefent of very fine venifon added its luxury to the common plenty of our table. But in our prefent ftate of inactivity, the fituation of the long-boat was continually prefTing home upon our minds with the hopes of fuccefs, or the fears of calamity. The favage nature of the people who inliabited tlic parts which our friends were gone to explore, operated to alarm the one ; at the fame time that our confidence in their Ikill, courage, and good condu£l, animated the other.— While, however, our imaginations were following them in their voyage, with themoft afFeftionate folicitude, they were on the verge of deflruc- tion, and threatened with (haring the abhorrent fate of their countrymen who were devoured by the cannibals of Queenhithe, \ On 174 1788. Jutr. VOYAGES TOTHE On the evening of the 20th, we faw the fails of the long>boat in the ofHng; but the fudden impulfe of our unreflefting joy on the occafion, was immediately checked by the apprchenfions that naturally arofe in our minds from her early return. The interval of her arrival at the ihip was a period of very painful fufpenfe to every one on board : at length, to our inexpreflible fatisfaftion, we obferved, on her coming along^fide, that not an individual was mifllng. Our immediate attention, however, was called to the afliftance of fome wounded men, who had fufFered fcverely m a very violent conflict the boat had fuftained with the natives of the ftraits, and which was the caufc of her fudden return. The whole attention of the ftiip was now transferred to our wounded people ; but though feveral of them were much hurt, we were confoled with finding that no mortal injury had been received by any. The officer was wounded by a barbed arrow in the head, which would have killed him on the fpot, if a thick hat had not deadened the force of the weapon. One of the feameu was pierced in the breaft, and another in the calf of the leg, into which the arrow had entered fo far iu to render a very large incifion abfolutely neceflary, in order to difcharge it. A fourth received a wound very near the heart, but the weapon which gave it, very fortunately fell fliort of the vital parts. The reft of the people were bruifed in a terrible manner by the ftones and clubs of the enemy ; even the boat itfelf was pierced in a thoufand places by arrows, many of which remained in the awning that covered the back part of it ; and which, by receiving the arrows, and breaking the fall of large fti)nes thrown from flings, m a great mcafure faved our party from inevitable de- ftru£lion. Im l\^ i'M ym '3 >*•*!: NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. In this engagement the natives behaved with a fpirit and refolution that rofifted the ufual terror of fire-arms among a favage people ; for the conteft was clofe, and for fome time our men fouglit for their lives. — One of them had beenfingled out by an individual favage for his vi£tim, and a fierce engagement took place between them. The native viTas armed with a ftone bludgeon, and the failor with a cutlafs. They both nianifefted, for fome time, equal courage and dexterity ; but if an inter- vening oar had not broke a blow, armed with all the force of his enemy, our brave countryman muft have funk beneath it. It however failed of its obje(ft, and gave him an opportunity, by a fevere ftroke of the cutlafs, to deprive the native of an arm, who, notwithrtanding fuch a lofs, and feveral other wounds, contrived to fwim from the boat, indebted for his life to the noble mercy of his conqueror, ivho difdained to kill him iir the water. »77 1788; JULT. I \r,l The feaman who was wounded in the leg, continued, during the a£tion, with the arrow in his flefli ; and without attempting to rid himfelf of the torturing weapon, became, by his courageous and active exertions, a very principal inftrument in preferving the boat. Though we had never had any intercourfe or communic.ition with the inhabitants of the ftraits, we had indulged ourfelves with the hope that cur friendly conduft towards their neighbours, might, by fome means, have reached the diftri<3: of their habitation, and given them favourable impreflions of us : but their conduft marked the mod favage and bloody hoftility ; and the fury of their onfet compelled a fimilar fpirit of re- fiftance : but to do juftice to tlie humanity of our people, — notwithfland- ing the adtual fufFerings of many of them, and the cruel fate which they well knew would have been the certain allotment of them all, had they loft the day, — they never failed, in recounting the circumftaiices of '^ of i n% If I. 1 iy' ,78 V O YAG E S TO THE 1788. of It, to exprefsan unfeigned concern for the unhappy people who h;;d fo ^^^^' ralhly courted their own deftrutSlion. The attack was begun by the favages,— who boarded the boat, with the defign of taking her, in two canoes, containing between forty and fifty men, who were moft probably fonie of their choiceft warriors. Several other canoes alfo remained at a fmall diftance, to alfift in the attempt ; and the (hore was every where lined with people, who difcharged at our veflel continual fliowers of ftoues and arrows. A chief in one of the canoes, who encouraged the advance of the others, was moft fortunately (hot in the head with a fingle ball, while in the very a£l of throwing a fpear of a moft enormous length at the cockfwain. This circumftance caufed the canoes to draw back, and deprived the natives who were already engaged, of that fupport which muft have enfured them the vidory.-^— Indeed, as it was, when we confider tliat the boat's company confifted only of tliirtcen men, who were attacked with the moft courageous fury by fu- pcrlor numbers, and galled as thcfe were, at the fame moment, by the numerous weapons conftantly difcharged from the fliore, their efcape is to be numbered among tliofe favourable events of life, which never fail to excite, In well ordered minds, a mingled fenfiition of gratitude and aRonifliment. 'I W The boat had advanced a confiderable way up the Straits of de Fuca, and had entered a bay or harbour; when, as our people were pre- paring to land for the purpofe of examining it, they were attacked by the natives, as has been juft related ; and, of courfe, efFedlualJy obftruded in the purfuit of their original defign. From this ftation, however, they obferved, that the ftraits to the Eaft North Eaft appeared to be of great extent, and to encreafe rather than diminifti. » -% ' . ! NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Ai they returned down the flralts, they were met by a fmall canoe paddled by two men, who were the fubjedts of Wicananifti, and from whom they purchafed fome fifli. But words cannot exprefs the furprife and abhorrence of our people, when thefe favages held up two human heads, but juA cut off, and ftill dreaming with blood, by way of offering them to fale. They held thefe deteftable objects by the hair with an air of triumph and exultation; and, when the crew of the boat difcovered (igns of difguft and deteflation atfuch an horrid fpeftacle, the favages, in a tone, and with looks of extreme fatisfa£tion, informed them, that they were the heads of two people belonging to Tatootchc, whom they had murdered, as that chief had lately declared war againft Wicananifli. This circumftance threw a damp upon the fpirits of the crew, which continued, more or lefs, through the whole of the voyage. Though the boat had not fucceeded in the principal objeft of our expedition, yet it did not return without being able to communicate fome knowledge of the ftraits of de Fuca. She had failed near thirty leagues up the ftrait, and at that diftance from thefea it was about fifteen leagues broad, with a clear horizon ftretching to the Eaft for 15 leagues more. — Such an extraordinary circumftance filled us with ftrange conjeftures as to the extremity of this ftrait, which we concluded, at all events, could not be at any great diftance from Hudfon's Bay: — An opinion which is confidered at large in the Introdudion to this volume. »79 1788. July. We were now obliged to give up all hope of obtaining any further fatisfa£lion concerning the extent of the ftraits, or of the particulars of Shoalwater Bay, at lelift for this feafon. We therefore prepared to return with all poflible expedition to join our party in King Geors^e's Sound. Z On m^ I Milt' lU V O YAG E 8 TO THE 1788. On tlie 2 id, we put to Tea with the tide of ebb, and by noon we Jui-v- were entirely clear of the Sound. Our latitude was aS** 41' North, and Monday i 1 -• -> i Port Effingham bore North Weft by North, at the diftance of five miles. Ji; It ■' I • : \ ! During our ftay in this port, we were vifitcd by a great variety of people, who refided at different places between Port Cox and the ifland of Tatootche. But none of thole who inhabit the country up the ftrait ventured to approach us : perhaps the fear of Tatootche, whofe ifland is fituated at the very entrance, and is faid to contain near five thoufand people, might prevent them from coming to the fliip. In this ftation we procured a confidcrable quantity of very fine fea- otter (kins, with abundance of fifti, confifting of falmon, halibut, her- rings, fardonies, cod, trout, and rock-fifti. We were alfo furnifhed with a continual fupply of vegetables and fruits of the woods ; particularly a kind of wild currant, which grows on trees of a tolerable fize. The found is, by no means, fo extenfivc as that of Nootka. It affords^ however, feveral places of (helter, but none of them are fo commodioua as Port Effingham, which is entirely fecure from all winds. The coaft every where abounds with timber for ftiip-building, and which would form the fineft mafts and fpars in the world. Tuefday •» During the whole of the 2 2d the wind blew from the Weft North Weft, with which wc ftood to fea to the South Weft, till noon of the WcdM<(bx*3 23d, when the latitude was 4&° 36' North. At this time we had made fo confiderable an offing that we loft fight of land ; when, at three in the afternoon, the wind veering to the South Weft, wc tacked and ftood to the Weft North Weft, to naake the land. < Ift NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 181 In the morning of the 24th, the wind (hifted to the Southward, which 1788. brought thick, hazy weather, and of courfe prevented us from clofing Thur(U»y">4 with the (horc. Towards noon, however, it cleared away, and the lati- tude was 49' 40' North : but we fcarcely had taken the meridian, when the fog returned, and on founding, we bad no more than twenty fathoms of water ; on which we tacked immediately and flood to Tea. At four o'clock it again cleared up, wlien Breaker's Point was fcen bearing Eaft by South, diftant four leagues, and our diftance from the land was only three leagues ; fo that when wc tacked, we muft have been clofe on board it. The thick, mifty weather did not entirely^ clear away till the morning Friday is of the 25th, when the entrance of King George's Sound was feen bearing Eaft North Eaft, at the diftance of fix leagues ; but it again came on fo very foggy, that it would have been imprudence in the extreme to have run for the land. About eight o*clock in the morning of the t6th, we happily anchored Sawrdiy 16 fafe in Friendly Cove; when we enjoyed the very great fatisfadion of finding our friends in perfe»fl health and fecurity, as well as the vcflel in a forward ftate of advancement : (he was completely in frame, part of her (ides were planked, her decks laid, and moft of her iron work finifhed. During our abfence a confiderable quantity of furs .u been colle£ted, not only from the natives, but from various companies of ftrangers, whom the fame of the vefTel had induced to vifit Nootka, in order to fa- tisfy their curiofity with the (ight of fuch an objed. Maquilla : ) .< ^ti lis VOYAGES TO THE 1788. JvLy. Maquilla had Icrupuloudy adhered to every part of his engngemcnt, and the faithful Callicum had attended to the welfare and fafety of our people, with the vigilance of honour, and the affection of friendHiip : the inhabitants of the village in his jurifdidlion, not only brought daily and plentiful fupplics of fi(h and other provifions to the houfe, but gave the party every afliftance in their power, by his immediate orders. Nor is it poHible for us to relate his zealous regard and unfliaken attach- ment to us, without lamenting the unmerited fate he received, from the unfeeling and execrable concKi£l of men who were natives of th» mod enlightened quarter of the globe, and boaft the profcfTion of a reU« glon of peace and mercy. I f i i. CHAP. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 183 1788. Juiv. i I C II A P. XVII. jlnxiely of the Party on Shore on jlccount of the Ship. — Report: fpread ly the Natives. — KnoivleJ^e obtained by the Party of our Engagement in the Straits of De Fuca, and its Confejuence.— Improvement made in the Houfe^ tic. during the Abfnce of the Felice. — The yijlonillmcnt of the Natives at the Building of the Veffel^ with their peculiar AitenUon to the Employ' mcnt of the Smiths. — Our Olfct^atim of the Sabbath an Objedt of particular Curiofity to the Natives. — Sotne Knowledge of their Religion deri- ved from thence. — Dejign of proceeding again to Port Cox. — Reafm ajjigned for not flopping there on our Return from Port Effingham. — Our Intentions fruflrated.-^-Mutiny on Board. — 'the Perfom concerned in it turned on Shore. — And the Reafons for fuch a ATeafure, tic. \{ IF, during our progrefs to the Southward, we felt at times a very poignant anxiety for the fafety and welfare of thofe whom we had left on (hore, it cannot be fuppofed, for a moment, that they were not affefted by fimilar fcnfations for their frienJs on board the Felice ; who were gone to encounter the dangers of thole feas where it was doubted that ever fliip had ploughed the water, and to explore thofe coafts which they did not fiippofe an European foot had ever trod. — Their folicitudc was equal to our own ; and tl;eir intervals of labour were conftantly employed in counting the hours of our abfence, — offer- ing up prayers for our fafety, — and joining in wiflies for our return. — But this was not all— the natural concern they muft feel on our account, ^ 5 was u 'ih rr { ii i«4 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. was heightened into the mod painful alarm, from a report brougljt them . f"'"- by fomc of the fubje£ts of Wicanaiiifh, which contained an account of our having been attacked by the people of Tatootche, who had cut to pieces a part of the crew of the Felice ; and that the principal officers were among thofe who had fallen in the contcft. — Such a relation, which could not be fuppofcd, by the moft incredulous of our people, to be % mere invention, threw them into a flate of coiifuiion that checked the growing ardour of their exertions, and caft a gloom over them * which the utmoft efforts of tlicir rcfolution, and the fpirit ncceflary to encounter a repeated acccfTlon of difficulties, was not able entirely to dil- fipate.— This report, however, proved to be an entire fabrication of thofi; who brought it, as it was previous to the adtion of our long-bont wit!) the natives of the Straits, which migljt have, in fome degree, jurtified an exaggerated account of that unfortunate event. — From what motives this falHiood was fabricated, we never could difcover, or, indeed, form any thing like a fatisfaftory conjecture. A full and faithful account, however, of our proceedings in Port Effingham, and a particular dc- fcription of our wounded fcamcn, was brought to Nootka Sound, by a native of that port, who had arrived to difpofe of a cargo of furs to Maquilla. Among other unpleafant confequences of this report, it put an end, for fome time, to all communication between the natives of King George's Sound and the houfe ; and occafioned our people, who were under the affli£ling apprehenfions that they fhould never Cce us more, to redouble their precautions till the arrival of the Iphigenia — Their joy, therefore, may be more eafily conceived than defcribcd, when they fiw the Felice enter the Sound, and beheld every perfon on board in health and fpirits, who had departed with her. ■ The N t ) 11 l' 1 1 W I'. S T C O A S V OK A M K I'> I C A. The fil'ntioM aiiil ciiciundniiccs in uliicli \vc t'ouml our littlo colony at oiir It tiiri), very cvidtMitly proved tlicir tlili^Miicc, as well as attention to the ordi rs K t't with thc-m tor their cotjihu't diuiiijf our aljj'iuc. The hodfc h.ul been niidcicd iKifnTlly Heme from any attack of thi; natives, thou}',h tli'y (hoidd liavc eniploynl thiir vvhdl" force ajyainll it. A pdi- fado of llroiig It ikes, uitli a well-fornnd fence of tliick huflies, had rcn* dered our groinid, in a prcat nuafurc, imprejnjahle. Various other inj- jirovements, of lefs conft(Hieiicc, luid been made, as new ideas of conve- nience and utility fugj^ened thcnifelvcs, w hich, altogether, ^wvc tlic plate an appearance of a little dock-yard, and not only cngroflcd the Ji'tention, hut excited the aftuiiinmicnt of the Nootkan people. 185 Jl'LT. Our abfencc from the Sound liad been only one month and twenty f'.i» days; and in this time, a-, wo have already particulari/Ad, a very expe- ditious advance had been made in the vellel. — Siic was, aj n>ay be very naturally fuppofed, an ohjctfl of great curioiity among tlic native.?, who could never be pcrfuaded that fuch a body of limber would find a ])ower equal to the removal of it from the flocks on wliich it was build- ing. — Hut their moft inquifitlve attention employed itlMfon the worh- (hop of the fmiths, and the operation of the forj^es. Their fimpic minds, jn a ftate fo diftant from the knowledge of enlightened nature and t\vi cultivated world, beheld, with all the cxtiavngancc of infantine delight, the mechanic (kill of our artificers. — Nor was their intercft lefa engaged than their curiofity, in .nttendlng to thofe powers which fibricated the variety of articles that added fo much to the pride, the plcal'urc, and the convenience of their lives.— Indeed they were continually making application to have iron forged into forms of ufe or ornament ; ami fo very fickle were they in the obje£ls of their fancy, that it became a mat- ter of confider.ible trouble to fatisfy their varying inclinations. — It waa therefore determined to turn this changeful difpofition to our own ad- ( I Aa vanta"c. i86 VOYAGES TO THE 17S8. vantnge, by enhancing the value of indulging it; in confequence of ^^^^' which regulation, the daily fupply of p.ovitions was confiderably aug- mented, and t'ldi and fruit were brought in encreaHng abundance. su.iiiy ^^ The 27th, being Sunday, the crew had leave to amufe thenrifelves with a r.inible on (hoie. The weather was extremely pleafant,— the air was genial, — and every one wore in his looks the fatisfadion he felt, on en- joying a ceffation from labour, and the indulgence of eafe and fccurity.— Indeed it was our conftant cuftom to pay all poflible refpe«a to the fab- bath, and to fultlll its defign, '.vhcnever it was in our power, by making it a day of reft. The natives could not, at firft, comprehend why all our occupations ftood ftill on this day :— but the different cloathing of the men, and, particularly, the clean faces of the fmiths and armourers, awakened their curiofity fo far as to produce an enquiry of us concerning this incompre- hcnfible regulation. — The manner of their receiving our explanation, gave us fome infight into their religion, which will be the fubje£t of a future page. Monday it On the 28th, wc refumed our work, and a large party was fcnt into the woods to fell timber, for the purpofe of planking the veflel, which was a very laborious bufinefs, as there were large logs to be conveyed upwards of a mile, through a thick foreft, to our little dock-yard.—The remainder of the crew were employed, either in making cordage, affifting the carpenters, or preparing the (hip for fea. It was now determined to put our defign in execution of proceeding in a few days to Port Cox, to pay another commercial vifit to Wicananifli. It was, indeed, our original intention to have taken that place in our way * , / NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. way back from Port Effingham ; but the accident of the long-boat, ui the Straits of de Fuca, and our impatience to return to our friends in the Sound, predominated over every other confideration. But as we were now perfedly fatisfied as to the Htuation and progrefs of the party at Nootka, it was agreed to proceed again to fea, as we expe£tcd to reap very confiderable advantages from the numerous hunters of Wicananiih, who, we had every reafon fuppofe, would, by this time, have accumu- lated a very large quantity of furs. Nor did we hefitate to believe, that our reception from that chief would be more gracious, as it was now in our power to replenifh his coffers with fuch an inedimable article as a copper tea-kettle. But this defign was unfortunately fruftratcd by a very dangerous mutiny again breaking out, which was pregnant with confequences of the moft alarming nature. 187 1788. July, This mutiny was headed by the difgraced boatfwain, and the beft men in the (hip.— They made a defperate attempt to feize the arms and put the firft officer to death, who was left to take care of the fhip; as every other perfon in command was on (hore, in the engagement of his duty, or for the purpofe of recreation. The time which was chofen for this enterprize was well imagined, as it was in the evening, on their return from the woods, and when, as we firft obferved, there was but one officer on board. Ever fince the firft fymptoms of mutiny appeared off" the Philippines, the arms had been removed from the quarter-deck to the cabin ; and this precaution faved the ft»ip : for the officer having fortunately gained the cabin before the mutineers, he placed himfclf at the door with a loaded blunderbufs, and kept them from advancing, while he called aloud for afliftance. It was a fortunate circumftance that moft of the officers were fitting on the quarter-deck of the new vcflol, whicli was A a 5 not ( i 'i i88 1788. JVLY. VOYAGES TO THE not more than an hundred yards from the (hip. We therefore inftantlj heard the alarm through the cabin-window, and did not delay an inftant in getting on board the (hip. ■-' ^ [ •1.4) 'i. i The firfl: ftep we took was to arm ourfelves : — when, being thus pre«- pared, we turned the crew on deck, as we were determined to face the bu- iiiicfs on tlie inftant. We well knew that there were many good men in the fliip ; and we refolved, if pofTible, to feparate them from the reft, before they were prevailed on, by any means, to join in the plot. The crew being now all on deck, it inftantly appeared who were the ringleaders in the budnefs, though we had fome reafon to apprehend that the mutiny was a matter of general agreement. We then informed them that it was our determination to proceed to extremities ; and warned fuch as were difpofcd to be obedient, to feparate themfelves from the reft: — When, on prefenting our arms, moft of the crew came over to us, leaving eight turbulent fellows, headed by the dif- carded boatfwain, who remained deaf to all our perfuafions to return to their duty.— As we were now very fuperior in numbers, we hoped to fettle the matter without fhedding a drop of blood on the occafion. We therefore left them the alternative, either to go into irons, or be turned on ftiorc among the favages. They preferred the latter,— and were im,- diately laiided, with everything that individually belonged to them- They were no fooner gone than good order and difcipline were reftored. Inftruiftions, however, were fent to the party on fliore, not to permit the mutinous people to find a ftielter at the houfe, or to be admitted to any communication with them. A ftrift watch was alfo kept on board, as we were not, by any means, without our doubts concerning the difpofi- tions of the reft of the crew. We I y i [ . I' NORTH WEST COAST OF A\iERICA. We were not informed of the whole extent of the plot till the follow- ing day, when one of the failors came and gave a voluntary account of it. Almoft all the crew had (igned a paper, by which they bound themfelves to join in getting pofleflion of the fliip, when they were immediately to quit the coaft of America, and fteer their courfe to the Sandwich Iflands; from whence they prqpofed to make the bcft of their way to fome port where they might difpofe of their valuable cargo. — As they had taken care to deftroy the writing, wc could not difcover what their in- tentions were with refpe ; Conduit cj the Party on Shore refpeil'ing the Mutity. — Promfe made to the Crew to go to the Sandwich IJlands. — Occupation of the Ship's Company, — 'J'Ae Mutineers go to live with Maquilla and Callicum. — They are Jiripped of their deaths, and made to work. — Princefs Royal feen in the Offing. — Prepare for Sea. — Sluit King George's Sound a fecond Time. — Prefents made to Maquilla and Callicum, — Thofe Chief s prepare for War. — Arms lent to them,, — Strength of Maquilla' s Forces. — He departs on his Expedition to the Northward.—' InJlru£iions given to the Party on Shore. i-A THIS difturbance on board the fliip occafioned, at firft, no little un- eafincfs as to the influence it might have on the remaining part of our voyage; but we were not only confoled, but encouraged in favourable expedations, by the conduct of the party on (hore, who not only declared their dcteftation and abhorrence of the mutinous defigns, in the moft forcible terms, but took every method which their underftandings could fuggeft, to fatisfy us of their obedient difpodtlon and fenfe of duty. — They renewed their affurances of fidelity to us In the moft folemn man- ner, and we did not withhold the confidence we believed them to deferve. This mutiny furprlfed us the more, as no relaxation of duty had taken place fince our departure from China. The crew had been kept ftridlly to the various occupations which our circumftances required, but with- out that rigour which begets difcontent ; and they moft certainly did not enjoy the leifure which idlencfs fo often appropriates to mifchlef. As 5 to NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. to the folly of their defign, that is not a matter which will juftify a mo- merit's wonder. It is very fortunate for mankind that wickednefs fo often wants judgment : in this cafe, the defign of running away with the (hip arofe from little more than the impatience of their paflions to get to the Sandwicli Iflands, which we had declared to be a part of our voyage, and where they longed to folace themfelves in the enjoyments af- forded by thofe voluptuous abodes. — As to any fubfequent arrangements, they had probably left them, with all the improvidence of a failor's character, to the chance of future determination. Indeed, — nor was it unnatural, — the obedient as well as diforderly part of the crew, looked with fome degree of impatience to a period when they ftiould change the defart (hores of Nootka, and the nau- featingcuftoms of its inhabitants, for the genial climate, the luxurious abundance, and the gratifying pleafures of the Sandwich Iflands. Nor was our depaiture from St. George's Sound lefs anxioufly defired by many of the crew, from the refleftion that cannibals inhabited its fhorcs, — and that the fate which had befallen their countrymen at Qo^eenhithe, might, from fome untoward caufe or other, happen to them. Indeed, as wu have before obferved, the idea of being eaten by the Americans abfohitely haunted the imaginations and preyed upon the fpirits of many of our people. — We therefore thought proper to renew our promifes of going to the Sandwich Iflands, and the eyes of every one fparkled at the thought. 191 1783. JULV. The diminution of our flilp's company, from the prefs of employ- ment on fliore, and feparation of the mutinous feamen, prevented us from leaving King George's Sound, to make another voyage to Port Cox, as we had intended. The fails were therefore unbent, the running- rigging unreefed, and we prepared to give the carpenters every aflifl:- ance JtLV. Aii VOYAGES TO THE aiice in our power towards fiiiKhing the veflel on the (locks. For this piirpofe, additional faw-pits were dug, and men fent to be employed in them ; new fupplies of timber were alfo brought from the woods, and an additional party was fpared from the (hip to aflift in making cordage, and the other occupations of our little dock-yard. At the fame time, tlic ncctflary ftores were h\ndcd for the ufe of the houfe ; and as the fmiths had exiiauftcd thcmrtlvcs of iron, their workfliop was repleniflicd with a confiderable quantity of tliat eflential article. Though at our departure from Clilna wc pofTcfTcd plenty of ftorcs of every kind, tlicir confumption had been fo great in the various fervices which demanded them, tliat we were, at length, under the ne- cefiity of rcforting to the produce of the country, and the exertions of cur own ingenuity, to fupply tlieir dccreafing or cxhauftcd ftate. AH our fea-cual being expended, we made charcoal with great facility, which the fmiths preferred to the otlier. The turpentine, which we got from trees in great abundance, was found to be of great fervice in paying the planks, to keep them from rending ; and, when mixed with oil, of wiiich we could procure any quantity, it proved a veryufeful fuccedaneum for tar. — Tlie red ochre which the natives employed to paint their faces, we purchafed from them: — In fhort, there were very few, if any articles, to be procured at Nootka, which we did not contrive to turn to very good account, and which we purpofely purchafed, to prelerve the com- munication of good offices between us and the people, and to keep alive their adivity to ferve us. Neceffity, that mother of invention, taught us, in this remote corner of the globe, to look for aid to thofe fources on which we did not deign to caft an eye, while we podefled a ftore of fuch materials as flow from the fuperior knowledge of cultivated fociety : while perfe- verance, that all-fubduing principle of human a£lion, produced for us, on NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. on the unfrequented fliorcs of America, fomcwliat of the conveniencles, and a fuccelsful imitation of thofe arts which may be coiifidered as the natural growth of Europe. The mutinous feamen immediately built themfelvcs a large hut, in which they refided, beneath whofe leafy roof they had full leiiurc to con- template on their part villainy ; and, as their different chara(flers might operate, to curfe the ill-fortune that bcfcl, or lament the wicked fpirit that mifled them. They, indeed, fuffered fcverely for their dil'o- bedient conduct, and feemed to cafl: a wifliful eye to the floating habita- tion from which they were baniflied ; for all communication was now (hut up between them and the houfe, as well as the (hip ; — but wc well knew that a very little portion of induftry would be fuflicient to fupply them with fifli ; and to enable them to gain a fupport from the lea, we purchafcd a canoe, and fent it to them, as the lall favour or attention they were to exped from us. On the day after the mutiny had appeared, Maquilla and Callicuni came on board, to prove their fricndfliip, by offering luch fervlccs as the peculiar exigency of our fituation might require. Till tliis circumftancc led us to explain the real condition of our feamen, the chiefs had confi« dcred them in the light of flaves ; and had already complimented us, with fome mixture of furprife, on the extraordinary mildnefs of our conduft towards the crime of rebellion in a people of their fuppofed con- dition. Nay Maquilla, from an apparent horror of the olFeiice, and a forward zeal for our fecurity, had taken fome of tlie officers afide, and ferioufly asked permiffion to colled: fome of his people, and put the mutineers to inftant death. The rcqueft, as may be fuppofed, was not only rcfufed, but treated with tlie ftrongcft marks of difpleafurc; and fc) well difpofed was Maquilla to put his project in execution, that wc were 193 1788. JULT. Bb ob'liicd 194 1^ 1788. Jwi,v. VOYAGES TO THE obliged to accompany our refufal with repeated figns of abhorrence, in order to prevent it. Callicum, however, aded in the bufincfs with more prudence and undcrftanding : — He wifhed to affift in punifhing the of- fenders by a mode that he knew could not be difagreeable, and would be fufficiently mortifying to them. When, therefore, he underftood that thefe unhappy people were baniflicd from the (hip, he requefted our per- miflif o receive them into his houfe ; and as wc were well aflured tha .- bell hofpitnllty even of a Nootkan chief, would be a very fevere puniflimcnt to a Britlfli failor, — we readily confented to his propofition, on his affuring us, at the fame time, that his new guefts fliould be fecure from any perfonal injury whatever. . )i .' ^1 This bufinefs being arranged, we left the difcarded people to their new guardians, and turned our thoughts to matters of more immediate im- portance. On the following day, to our great furprife, and as we are ready to acknowledge, to our no little fatisfa£lion, we faw our fturdy and refolute mutineers employed in fetching water, and other menial ferviccs, in the execution of vvliich, flaves alone are employed at Nootka. Nor were they fuffercd to quit the houfe of Callicum on any occafion whatever, without being attended by natives of the loweft condition, to whofe care and command they were entrufted. This compuifory la- hour muft have been a very mortifying clrcumftance to them ; as, rather than employ the canoe we had given them to get fifti for themfelves, they had been fo lazy as to part with fome of their cloathing to pur- chafe that article from the natives. The chiefs, however, foon took care to fecure their cloaths to themfelves ; and, without being guilty of injuftice to our friends, we are obliged to attribute their feveral propofals concerning the offenders, though we did not at firft fufpedt their motives, to the defire of getting pofleffion of the feveral garments that covered them. That objeA was eafily obtained ; and when thefe unhappy men s had I / ■ > ■ '••s'^V*, ■ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »9S had given up tlieir all, they were forced to go to fea, to afllft in pro- 1788. curing fifli, — not for themfelves, but for the families of their new maftcrs. A ij (; u i r . We continued our various operations with the moft indefatigable in- WeJneWayc duftry and attention, and nothing material happened till the 6th of Auguft ; when, about noon, a fail was feen in the offing, which we knew to be the Princcfs Royal. She appeared, at fiift, as if (landing in for the Sound, but the weather becoming foon after thick and hazy, wc loft fight of her On the arrival of iliis vtflel on the coaft, we determined immediately to prepare for fea, as the prcfcnce of this Hiip would be an additional fecurity to our party ; and, notwithftanding the diminifhcd ftate of our crew, we were now refolved to venture to Port Cox, to poflefs ourfelves of the furs which, wc had every rcafon to believe, muft have been collected for us by Wicanani(h : a plan which would have been already executed, if we had not been impeded by the mutinous condudl of our crew. m u^'J? Qn the 7th, the Princefs Royal again appeared in the offing, and Tiiurfdan was again obfcured from our view, by the return of thick, mifty weather. On the 8th, we were ready for fea, — and as we faw nothing of the '"'"''•; * Princefs Royal, we became very apprehenfive that (he might reach the (hores of Wicananifli before us, and be able to tempt that chief, by various articles of novelty on board her, to intrude upon the treaty he had made with us. We, therefore, did not delay a moment to fail from the Sound, with a gentle breeze of wind from the Weft- ward, and proceeded to Port Cox. B b 2 Previous IL'^J fj 196 VOYAGESTOTHE Pivvioiis to our departure, we confirmed our friL-ndHiip with Ma- qiiillii and Callicuin, with the ufual interchange of prdents. Thefe diicfs had been for fome time preparing for an hoflile expedition agaiiift an enemy at a coiifidcrahlc diftancc to the Northward, and were jiow on tlic point of fitiinp; forward. Some of the nations in the vicinity of the Nortliern Archipclngo, had, it fecms, invaded a vil- la ;c about twenty leagues to the Northward of King George's Sound, under the jurifdi£lion, and which had been left to the particular go vcrnmcnt of his grandmotlicr. At this place tlie enemy had done confiderable mifchicf, — murdering fome of the peopl'.', and carrying others into captivity. On the arrival of a meflcngcr at Nootka with the news of thefe hoftilities, the inha- bitants became inftantly inflamed with a moft aflivc impatience for revetige ; and nothing was thought of amongft them, but the means of gratifying ir. -.. We embraced tliis opprotunity of binding the chiefs, if pofilblc, unaltenibly to us, by furnifhing them with fome fire-arms and am- munition, which would give them a very decided advantage over their encnues. Indeed we felt it to be our intcreft: that tliey fliouKl not be diftuibcd and interrupted by diflant wars ; and that, if ne- cefiity fliould compel them to battle, that tliey fhould return vic- torious. This unexpe»ftcd acquifition of force animated them witli new vigour ; for they had already confbfl'ed that they were going to attack an enemy who was more powerful, numerous and favage than themfclves. We attempted to inftlll into their minds the humanity of war, — atid they had adurdly promifed to punifli the enemies they (hould take l.^'i^i M I \ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. take ill bnttlc with captivity, and not, as had been tlicir general prac- tice, witli dentil. But it could not be fiippofed that the doiftrincs of our humane policy would be remembered by a favage nation burn- ing with revenge, in the moment of battle ; and we are forry to add, that this expedition ended in a moft fliocking feenc of blood and maiTacre. •!f? 1788. A u (. u » r 1 The power that Maquilla carried with him on this occafion, was o£ a formidable nature. His war canoes contained each thirty young, athletic men, and there were twenty of thefe vefleli?, which had been drawn from the different villages under the fubjciflion of Maquilla. — Comekela had the command of two boats: — They moved off from the fhore in folcinn order, fiiiging their fong of war. The chiefs were cloathcd in fca-otttr ikins; and the whole army had their fiiccs and bodies painted with red ochre, and fprlnkled with a Ihiniiig fand, which, particularly when the fun (hone on them, produced a fif rcc aiul terrible appearance. While the women encouraged the warriors, in the patriotic -""Ci'^C -'* ^'^"^ Spartan dames,— to return vidorious, or to return no more. 'i The battles, or rather the attacks of thcfc favage tribes, are we believe inconceivably furious, and attended with the moft fliocking a(5lions of barbarous ferocity. They do not carry on hoftilities by regular confli^fls ; but their revenge is gratified, their fanguiiiary appetites quenched, or their laurels obtained by the operations of fuddca cntcrprizc and adive ftratagcm. The Inftruflions we left with our party on fhore were fuch .is the circumftances of the cafe required. They were reque{>cd to maintain, and if polfible to augment their former vigilance ; particularlv if any 5 ikanecr;. if,: * . m. -... .i«n iM y-*-< ,p8. VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. Arangeri (hould arrive in the Sound. And if it (hould happen that AvoviT. Q^f friends were vanquiflied, and purfucd to Nootka, that they (hould take a decided and adlive part in their fupport. They were alfu de- fired not to let their humanity operate to the renewal of any com- munication with the baniOied fcamen,— but to leave them to the lamented hardfliips of tlieir condition, and the painful druggies of their repentance. i^ *!■ , I.. CHAP. ' \ NORTH VEST COAST OF AMERICA. C i{ A P. XIX. 199 1788. AVOVIT. Set f nil for Port Cox. — Meet the Prirtcefs Roya!.— Reciprocal good Offices.— Anchor in Port Cox. — Princefs Royal anchors in Port Hanna. — IFicananiJI) removed to Clioquatt.— Long-boat fent there at two different 'times, with Pnfents, &c. — Defcription of Clioquatt. — Occupations of the Natives, — Brijk Trade with them. — The Long-boat fent a third Time to IVicananiflj^ on taking leave. — Mejfage from that Chief who aflerivards arrives on board.-— His Son propofes to embark with us, which ive decline. — Put to Sea, and Anchor again in King George's Sound. — The Arrival cf the Iphi- GiSMiXK.^Ttanna s affedionate Behaviour, £sV. — Arrival of ATaquitla and CalUcumt and an Account of their Expedition.—Tianna's Abhorrence of American Manners. — People of America, Cannibals. — The Inhabitants of the Sandwich ijlands refcued from that Ajperjion. WE had butjuft cleared the mouth of the Sound, wlien a thick fog arofe, which obliged us to heave to. — In tlie evening, however, it cleared away, when we faw the Princefs Royal within two or three miles of us, to the windward ; and, on perceiving us, (he fired a gun to leeward and hoifted her enfign. We returned the ilgnal, and fhe imme- diately bore up and fpokc to us. I inftantly ordered out the boat, and went on board the Princefs Royal. I had no perfonal knowledge of Captain Duncan, wlio com- manded I '!}■ ^ II ti»* ■ - 209 VOYAGES TO THE 17S8. .\vc.; n. f I m mvAdcd her ; — but 1 had received full information in China of the ob- jefi: and extent of her voyage ; and I now felt the mofl: anxious dcfire to olrlr any Icrvicc to liim and his little crew which he might want, or it niii;ht be in my power to atTord. — Far from feeling the mofl: dillant im- pulfe of any milerable confideration, arifing from a competition of in- tercHs, I proftfs myfclftohave been animated by nootlier defires but thofe which arofo horn my duty, as a man and an Englifliman. The Princefs Ivoyal was not quite fifty tons burthen, and manned by fifteen men ; and u hen it is known that (he liad doubled Cape Horn, and navigated the great Northern and Southern Pacific Oceans, fome idea may be formed of the dif- trcflba her people mull have lufl'ercd, as well as of the ability and inde- fatigable i'pirit of the commander. Indeed tliere is every reafon to be- lieve tliat this little vcflcl accompliflied more for the benefit of her owners, tlian any fliip that ever failed to the North Weflern Coafl: of America. Captain Duncan received mc, with the wiiole of his crew, upon deck, — whom I could not but regard, as he conduced me to his cabin, witli an eve of applaufive aftonifliment. The firft qucflion which Captain Duncan afrced me was, concerning the fate of the (hip Nootka, about which he exprefled an extreme anxiety. lie had heard of the various misfortunes that had befell her, and was exprefling his doubts as to the pofiiljility of her reaching China, — when I at once calmed his friendly apprehcnfions, by afluring him I myfelf commanded the Nootka in that diftrefsful voyage which had excited his compaflion ; an:' that he beheld mc engaged, at this moment, in an amicable conteil: with him for the favours of fortune. His aOonifhmcnt almofl fuperfLdcd his belief on the occafion ; and, knowing what I iiad fufFered in my former voyage, he could fcarco conceive it to be within the rcacii of poUibility, that I Ihould be already re-emba/kcd in an adventure on the American Coafl. The .■y' i I iir~ - fii . L*af* NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. HOI The Princefs Royal had been out near twenty months from England, and was in want of many articles, without which it is aftonifhing (he could have continued her voyage. — Tliough haraffed with flitiguing duty, and in a climate and feafon where the feverity of the weather required the aid of invigorating cordials, their ftock of liquors had long been ex- haufted. We were extremely happy in being able to fupply them with a fniall quantity ; when Captain Duncan, in return, made us an unre- ferved offer of any thing his little veflel afforded *. 1788. AuCViT. »■; Dcftined as we were to be employed on a remote and unfrequented coafl, and liable to all the hardfliips and inclemencies of fuch a fituation, we felt an equal fympathy for our common allotment, and a mutual in. clination to relieve, as far our power extended, tlie mutual inconvc- niencies of it. 1*^', We now feparated, when the Princefs Royal purfued her courfe to the South South Eaft, and we continued along fhore.— She had nearly brought her voyage to a conclufion, and was proceeding to the Sand- wich Iflands, to take in refrelhments, in order to return to China with her valuable cargoe of furs. About nine o'clock in the evening the wind veered to the Eaft by Sou'th, which was immediately againft us, and obliged us to tack and ftand to fea. '^f? ''i '^ * On enquiring of Captain Duncan concerning his diftrefled condition, he told me that he had met Captain Dixon, in the Queen Charlotte ; and though that (hip was on her return to China, and abundantly flocked with every thing ; and even though fhe belonged to tlie fame owners with the Princefs Roya>, the provident commander thought it much better to carry all his ftorcs back to China, than to fpare any of them to the latter veflel, though they would have been fo great an alleviation to the hardlhips of her voyage. Cc It ?! '.' i m ''^ m 901 VOYAGES TO THE 'S>i 1788. August. Suiiduy I o It was the morning of the loth before we got down a-breaft of Port Cox, when we found the Prlncefs Royal had a few hours before arrived in a* fmall bar harbour, where our friend Hanna, the chief, refided.^ Captain Duncan fent his boat off to us, as we paflld, to know if he fhould pilot us into the hnrbour ; but as our intention was to enter Port Cox, we contented ourfelves with thanking him for his kind attentions. J lis boat, however, accompanied us till wc anchored in the inner port, about five o'clock in the evening, when (he quitted us to return to her fliip ; pading through the channels between the iflands and the main, the diftance being about fifteen miles. The late Eaftcrly winds had obliged the Princefs Royal to (helter her- fclf here, as well as to procure fome wood and water, previous to her quitting the American coaft. On our arrival in Port Cox, we found that Wicananifli had already re- moved to his winter quarters, which were up the harbour, and at the dif- tance of between thirty and forty miles from the fliip. \ Ei,J}«^ ;'•).:<' Mond.i>ii On the nth, the long boat was difpatched to the chief, with pre- fents ; and in the evening fhe returned, having met him at a fmall fum- mer village, which was fituated about twenty miles from the Ibip. He received the party with every mark of tlie moft diftinguifhing regard ; and, in return for our prefent, fcnt on board forty otter ikins, of the moft valuable fpccies ; and was pleafed to make known his further wifli, that the boat might be hereafter fent to his winter's rcfidence, whither he was then going, lutMayu On the 1 2th, though the weather was but indifferent, the long-boat- was ncverthelefs difpatched to Wicananifli with a variety of articles for trade. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 203 trade, and fome flattering prefents, amongft which the copper tea-kettle 1788. A u Q u s i . which had already been mentioned to him, was not forgotten, and whole arrival was eagerly expe£led by the whole family of the chief. The long-boat did not return till the 14th, when the officer gave us Thur.Jay 14 the following account of his little voyage. On the morning of the 13th he arrived at Clioquatt, the winter refi- dence of Wicananifli, which coiififted, like the other towns, of fuch houfcs as we have already defcribed, but more commoclioufly conftrufled, poflcf- fing a greater ftiare of their rude magnificence than any which we had yet feen. — It was very large and populous ; and the dwelling of the chief much more capacious than that which he occupied in the village near the fea, when we firft vifited his territories. The inhabitants were, at this time, bufily employed in packing up-fifli in mats, — fecuring the roes of them in bladders, — cutting whales into flices, and melting down blubbei into oil, which they poured into feal-fkins. — All this mighty preparation was the provident fpirit of catering for the winter: — and the incredible quantities of thefe various provifions which our people faw coUefted, pro- mifed, at leaft, that famine would not be an evil of the approaching I'eafon. On thefe fhores the winter is the happy portion of the year which is ap- propriated to luxury andeafe; nor are they then everaroufcd intoa'% ;,■:*? ^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 205 On the 20th, we were accordingly vifited by Wicananifh, attended by 1788. his brother, his two fons, three of his wives, and a great number of w^dneWayi people from the town, who attended their chief, in order to gain another opportunity of trading with us; and no fmall quantity of fur^ were, at this time, procured from them. The chief, however, prefented us with feveral fea otter (kins of the moft valuable kind ; and, though there was every reafon to believe that he intended to rival us in gencrofity, by refufing to receive any return, he could not bring hlmfelf to fend back a couple of mulkets and a quantity of ammunition ; which were too tempt- ing to be refifted by the delicacy of his fentlments, and might prove too ufeful in defending hlmfelf againft his powerful neighbour, Tatootchcj not to be received with the moft grateful fatisfadion. He enquired, In the moft afFedlionate maimer, how many moons would pafs away before our return ; and follclted us, in the ftrongeft manner, to prefer his port and harbour to every other. i'^.r-^.i One of his fons, a young man of about nineteen years of age, expref- fed a very earneft defire to depart with us ; but this offer we thought it prudent to decline, from a recolle£lion of the anxiety we had fuffercd on a fornicr occafion, by receiving even the amiable Tianna to our care and pro- teftion. This youth was the moft pleafing, in his figure and appearance, of any perfon we had feen on the American coaft. He not only appeared to be very quick and fagaclous, but to poflefs an amiable and docile dif- pofition ; and we do not doubt, had he vifited China, but that he would have returned with far difFerent qualifications than Comekela, to Improve and adorn his country. Wicananifli and his people left us with every token of fincere regret, and repeated entreaties that we would foon return. Having bid theic generous people farewell, we put to fea in the evening of the 20th ; and, without rifi 3 . 'I '\ I, SS^^~,:, -".^rw ■•».■.«««!*- 4^i so6 VOYAGES TO THE ! '■, 1788. AVCViT. ^' * I. without any material occurrence, anchored fafe on the 24th, in our olJ Htuatlon in King George's Sound. Our abfence had now occupied (o fliort a fpace of time, that we felt nothing of that anxiety for our party at Nootka wliich we had experienced on our former feparation. We found them all well, and the veflel confiderably advanced. The carpen- ters had nearly planked her up, and her fitaatiou was fuch, that we pro- pofed launching her on the 20th of September. The exiled crew remained in the fame unpleafant fituation in which we had left them. Grief, pain and rcmorfe had, we believe, been their conftant companions, fince they were banifhed from tlie fliip;— at leaft their appearance was fuch as to juftify us in forming fuch an opinion : and when the Felice entered Friendly Cove, we obferved, as they viewed her from the beach, that the fight of her feemed, in feme degree, to en- liven their dejeded countenances. The time now approached when we had every reafon to expeft the Iphigenia, according to the inftruftions given her at our feparation.— We began to feel that anxiety for her fate, which we, who knew the dangers (he had to encounter, muft naturally feel, when day after day palTed on, and we faw no appearance of her. Our anxious eyes were continually wandering over the fea that waflied the American Coaft, in fearch of thole fails which might mark the approach of our friends ; but for fome time nothing was feen but a vaft expanfe of water, unenli- vened by any objedl but, now and then, the folitary canoe of a Nootka fifherman. Thus alternately governed by hope and fear, by the expec- tation of foon feeing our companions again, and the apprehenfions of never feeing them more, we paffed the bufy part of our time; and, when our occupations were over, we ufed, iu the evening, to walk on the Hiore, at ■ *■ i *' '1 1 ■•V '^ :^.^ --S»iJw^^ .-tp--^-*-,-*^ . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 207 It the back of Friendly Cove, and interchange thofe refledVlons which 1788. had occurred in filence, during the labours and employment of the day. Awcuit. In our evening walk on the 26th, while we were communicating our thoughts, and repeating our vaticinations concerning the Iphigenia, to our infinite joy a fail was fcen in the offing, which we were willing to conclude could be no other than that which we expelled; and, indeed, fo it proved ; for, on the 27th in the morning, (he anchored in Friendly Wednefdayii Cove. Such a meeting as this, obtained, as it deferved, a generalcelebration ; and orders were accordingly given that all work of every kind Hiould be fuf- pended ; that it might be a day of reft to the body, as well as of joy to the •mind. — In fliort our little jubilee, on a diftant and dreary coaft, was pafled with a degree of fatlsfadioii and deliglit which the fplendid feftivities of polifhedi' nations have not always known. The relation of dangers that were part, — the pleafing renewals of private friendfhip, — the fuccefs which had attended our hazardous expeditions, — and the fair profpeft that we fliould return home to enjoy the fruits of them, formed the fubjefls of our eager difcourfe ; while the happy hours were enlivened by convivial mir(h and focial pleafure. - It was, as may be well conceived, a great addition to our happinefs, that the crew of the Iphigenia were entirely recovered from the difor- der which threatened them, at the time of our feparation, and now joined us in full health and vigour. 1 he joy of Tiaimaat the fight of thofe friends whom he had left with fuch poignant marks of regret, was of a nature to delight all who beheld the warm etfufionsof his grate- ful mind, but cannot be conveyed to thofe who did not behold it by any language of mine. Nor were we infenfible to the pleafure of feeing him X reAored f '^ i <\ ff «■ fi -;,■-._.■-•— '■•wr>%-^.-mam- .>^tM. «o8 V O YAG E S TO THE • 1788. AvevJT. i ; dll ■ ! n^^ reftored to us, fo entirely recovered from a diforder which had filled us with apprehenfion that we (hould never fee him again. Indeed, from the general cha!\ge in his looks, and ftill wearing his fur cap and other warm cloathing, with which he had clad himfelf, during the cold feafon, while the Iphigenia was in Prince William's Sound and Cook's River, — we did not immediately recognize the chief; but the violence of his joy foon difcovered him to us ; and though it might be more exprcf- five, it was not more fincere than our own. Indeed, fuch had ever been the conciliating power of his manners, that there was not a feaman in either fliip, that did not love Tianna as himfelf. We had fuppofed that his fatisfa(f\ion on feeing us once again, was compleat ; but we found it ftiU capable of iiicreafe ; — for when he was Informed that we propofed, in a very fliort time, to proceed to the Sand- wich Iflands,— his expreflions of delight knew no bounds; — they were wild, fantaftic and exceffive ; and it was fome time before they funk into that Aate of moderation which qualified him to receive any frefli impreffions of pleafure. The new veflel was referved for that purpofe ; and when it was pointed out, and he was made acquainted with its ob- je£t, he regarded it with fuch a firm and fixed attention, as if his eyes would have darted from their fockets to the veflel : and till fhe was launched, he continued the conflant companion of the carpenters, ex« amining their operations and obferving their progrefs. We encouraged this difpofition ; and it is fcarcely to be credited how much of a carpen- ter's profefTion he learned during the (hort time we remained at King George's Sound. On the 27th, while we were vifiting the village, Maquilla and Cal- licum returned from their war expedition ; and, on entering the Sound, the little army gave the ftiout of viftory. They certainly had obtained fome ad- vantages. t ^ M sift "< ■•' 1 • *■ ' i \ ^ ' t^'j^ ^'::3ft'»^**'»-' " I'lT 4- |1 .--- /- ^f0 I I ■iiiiir|n-ii IB I ij) aiiJMiarm'i' II iiiiiiaai*! I ■ inrliii'i m _ — ri-^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. vantages, as they brought home in their canoes feveral baikets, which they would not open in our prefence, and were fufpefted by us, as it afterwards proved, by the confefTion of Callicum, to contain the heads of enemies whom they had flain in battle, to the amount of thirty ; but this vi«£tory was not purchafed without fome lofs on the fide of the powers of Nootka. The chiefs now returned the arms they had received from us, but the ammunition was entirely expended : — we perceived, indeed, that the muikets had been fired feveral times ; and Callicum afl'ured us that ther bad taken ample vengeance for the hoflilities exercifcd againft them ; and had, befides, made a great booty of fea-ctter fkins, in which they were all arrayed. The Sandwich Ifland Chief did not, as we firftcxpe£tcd,dircoverany fur- prife at the fight of Maquilla and his army ;. but the frequent communica- tion of the Iphigenia with the natives along the coaft, from Cook's River to King George's Sound, had rendered them and their manners no longer an objeft of novelty, as they had never been an obje»ll of confideration in the eyes ofTianna. Indeed, when he, with his fine coloflal figure, flood by Maquilla, who was rather of a low ftature, the difference was fuch, as not only to ftrike every beholder, but even to afFcd themfelves with the different fenfations of an exulting or a wounded pride, which would prevent any very cordial alTedlion from taking place between them. Tianna and Comekela were old acquaintance, but by no means intimate friends, as the former held the latter in a very low degree of ejftimation ; and, accordingly, we did not obferve any very cordial appearance of joy at their prefent meeting. As Comekela had been at the Sandwich Iflands, oil his firft leaving America, the fhip having flopped there for refrefh- inents. he was qualified to give Maquilla an account not only ofTianna, D d but 209 1788. AweuiT. H 'f t ,1 "^'i\ m 'i -»j -^-^m-ts W ?•»»: I aio V O YAG E S TO THE 1 ilk'. it ' . t ' 1 788. but the country from whence he cnme, and he did it probably to the August, difadvantagc of both. At all events, Tianna held the cuftoms of Nootka iu deteftation ; and could not bear the idea of their cannibal appetites, without exprefling the moft violent fenfations of difguft and abhorrence. Indeed, there was no comparlfon to be made between the inhabitants and cuftoms of the Sandwich Iflands and thofe among whom we now refided, or of any part of the continent of America. — The former are their fuperiors in every thing that regards what we ihould call the com- forts of life, and their approach to civilization. They attend to a circum- ftance which particularly diftinguiflics poliflied from favage life, and that is clerailincfs : — they are not only clean to an extreme in their food, but alfo in their perfons and houles the fame happy difpofition prevails : — while the North Wtftern Americans are nafty to a degrc ? that rivals the moft filthy brutes, and, of courfe, prohibits any defcriptiou from us. Indeed, the very difgufting nature of their food is not di- miniftied by the manner in which it is eaten, or rather devoured. — Befides, their beinj;; cannibals, if no other circumftance of inferiority could be produced, throws them to a vaft Jiftance from the rank vvliich is held in the fcale of human bting by the c^iuntrymcn of Tianna : nor fliouUl we pafs over in this place the frequent and folemn declarations of this chief, that the natives of the Sandwich Iflands poflefs the moft abhorrent fentiments of cannibal nature ; and though they may immolate human beings en the altars of their deity, they have not the Icaft idea of making fuch a facrifice to tlieir own appetiies. Indeed, we truft it will not prove a vain hope, that thefe amiable people may foon be taught to abandon even their religious inhumanity ; and that near half a million of human beings, inhabiting the Sandwich Iflands, may one day be ranked among the civilized fubjefts of die Britifti empire. CHAP. *.". appointed to her. — Orders delivered to the Jphigenia. — Tianna embarks on board her. — Efcape of the degraded Boatfwain ; — Afjifled by the Mafter of the lVafl:ington. — i^«/V King George's Sound, and proceed to the Sandwich JJIands, 1 ' ( : M-V|- THE arrival of the Jphigenia not only infufed into our minds new life and fpirits, but enabled us to proceed in our different operations with redoubled vigour. We now formed a very ftrong party ; and, therefore, had no doubt of being able to launch the vefl'el by the time we pro- pofed. The voyage of the Iphigenia had alfo afforded us additional and very promifing expeftations of rendering the North Weft Coaft of America a very important commercial ftation. She had very completely coafted the American ftiore, from Cook's River to King George's Sound, and D d 2 had I !lltii!t* -ij>r«S' •» :.«n>«- IIS 1789. Auevir. VOYAGES TO THE hnd brought us the moA indubitable proofi of the exigence of tht Grent Northern Archipelago :— But this new, important, and very in- tcrtfling obje£l has already, we tru{l, fatisfied the attention of our readers, in one of the introductory Memoirs prefixed to this vo- lume. The artilicers of the Ipliigen'w were immediately employed to aflift thofe of the Felice in forwarding the completion of the veffel. Indeed, they rather felt a jeifloufy on feeing the works we had formed ; which afttd as a ftimulative to take an a£live Ihare in the honour of them : fo tint the bullnefs of our temporary dock piomifcd a very fpeedy comple- tion. Nor were the feamcn idle : fonie were added to the rope-makers, and others ftrengthencd the party appointed to cut down fpars for pre- ftnt ufe ; and, in particular, to procure a new fore-maft for the Felice, who, as we have related, had Iprung her's, very foon after our departure from Samboingan. ^ The feafon for retiring from the American coaft was now approaching; and we had fufRcient bufinefs on our hands to fill up the interval. Not only the new vefl'el was to be launched, manned, and equipped fur a voyage of near fifteen hundred leagues, but the two fhips were alTo to be prepared for fea ; and when our fituation, as well as the nature of our refources are confidcred, we muft be allowed to have had no fmall diffi- culties to encounter; and that, from having conquered them, we have fome claim, at leaft, to the praife that is due to unremitting iuduftry, and refolute perfeverance. A new fuit of fails was foon completed for the veflel on the (locks, which, as Ihe was to be rigged as a fchooner, was the more readily ac- compli fhed ; P'^il r*' J^A NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. however, thus far, and thus happily advanced in our fevcral prfpnt.i'io'is for our approaching voyaj;eB, it became a matter of imme- diate cmifidcration to form the ncccflary arrangements of the two fliips, not omIv for the prtfcnt fcafoii, but alfo for t!ie cnfuing year. A very valuable c.irgo of furs had In-cn colle£lcd, whicli it was our intcrcfl ta traiifp ^rt to market with all po.'UljIe dilpatch ; — it was, thcrcfori;, dc- tcrminud that the rdicc, as fuuii as the new veflcl was hiunclicd, Ihould dircftly proceed ti* China; an J that the Iphigcnia, with the fchooncr> iliould roniain tu prudcutc the general objc£ls of our commerce. aij complifxd; but, independent of tier ftortn'fails, thii was all we could 1788. do for her in that branch of rigging. ! . ^|! Tl/is arrangement being fcttk-d, every exertion was immediately made to pn pare tlic Felice fn fea. For this purpofe the l^ul-makcrs bcgau upon ht-r riggiig.aud tlie caulkers applied thtmfelves to her upper-works, which, as well as her bends, were very leaky. As it was more than probable that we (hould enter the C'hina feas at a very tempcftkious fcafoti of the year, we were very attentive to the making every neccfliry pnv vifion for that, as we did for every other pofllble exigency of the voy.nge. In fhort, we followed up this bufincfs with fuch unremitting and ,\0.\\e induftry, that by the 4th of September the (1 ip was rtaily for fca, having got her head fore-maft in, and being completely ftored with wood and water. 'lluulUjy 4. The natives now began to make preparations for retiring from their prefcnt fituation into the more interior put of the Sound j and we daily faw fame of their cnibarkati -ns, wl.ih we have dill rib*, d in a former chapter. On the ^th, Maqiii' a aivl Callicum pai 1 us a vifit, to notify Sumbv f iu form, that, iu a few dj) 0, tiuy, wiih all their people, (hould remove 5 to ■^)'! tj^- VOYAGES TO THE 1788. ^o tl"' winter refidence, which was near 30 miles from the (hip, and as iiPTiMam: iani\y from the fea. • On receiving this information, we thought it incumbent on us to form feme difpofitions concerning the exiled crew. Their fufFerings applied themfelves very forcibly to our pity ; and the humility of their folicita- fions, with their imploring promifcs of future fidelity and good behavi- our, were not without their efFe£l. But it required all the reflexion we could beftow on the fubjcifl, to form a right judgment how to adl in a crifis where individual feeling, and profeliional duty had much to fettlf, before a final depiilon could be made. The leaving thefe unhappy people behind, might have been confidered as cruelty to them; and the receiving men on board, the return of whofe daring and mutinous fpirit would, to fay no worfe, impede, if not wholly interrupt the voyage,— miglit turn out cruelty to ourfelves. They had, it is true, fuffered very feverely for their paft mifcondutfl ; and when they were fummoned to hear our final determination concern- ing them, their pale countenances and dejedted looks, accompanied by the moft abject declarations of repentance, difarmed us, at once, of all our refentment ; and they were received into the fhip on con- fenting to forfeit the wages already due to them for nine months fcr- vice, and that their future pay fhould be proportioned to their future good behaviour. To thefe conditions they joy fully fubmitted, and once more joined their comrades, after an interval, in which they had known nothing but mortification and diftrefs. The power which was exercifcd in depriving thefe men of the wages due to them previous to their vil- lainous attempt to feizc tiie (hip, was founded in flriift juftice : for, without confidering the wickednefs of their defign, and the fatal confe- quences which would have attended the completion of it, their having S prevented IINWHia NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. *»$ prevented the ihip from putting to fea, for the benefit of their employers, 1 788. by which interruption a confiderable lofs was fuftained, was alone fuffi- skptembh. cient to juftify an afl:, which would make them (harers in the lofs that they had occafioned. On our arrival at China, however, the whole of the wages which they had forfeited, was beftowed upon them by the commiferating gene- rofity of the owners. We could not, after all, excrclfe too much precaution in again re- ceiving thcfe dangerous people amongft us. We indulged our difpofi- tions to lenity with an apprehenfive f;\tisf;i£lion ; and, in order to leflen the poflibility of mifchief, we diftributcd them among the two crews, which Icflened, at leaft, the power of communication with each other. The boatfwain, whofe conduft had been marked with previous difobe- dience, and who was the ringleader of the mutiny, was excepted from the general amnefty. It was thought to be neceflary, at all events, to make him an example ; more particularly as we now difcovered that he had added theft to his other offences. He was accordingly put under confinement in the houfc on (liore. Thus was this very difagreeable bufinefs finally fettled: but had we been lefs fortunate in the firft difcovery of tlie mutiny ; — in Hiort, had we been at fuch a diftance from the (hip, as not to have heard the firfl alarm on the occafion, the confequences would certainly have been de- ftru£livc of the voyage, and might have proved fatal to ourfelves. Maquilla and Callicum now came to take their farewell of us, as they were going to depart for the place of their winter refidcnce, and deli- vered thcmfelvcs on the occafion in the warmeft language, and with the i . ^ moll h 1 ii ^1 »i6 V O YAG E S TO THE i\ iy%i. moft MprefTive looks of friendfliip. They knew that we were (hortly to quit their coaft, and exprefled very afFtftionate wifhes for our return. Maquilla entreated us again and again, whenever we propofed to get the little mamatlee or fhip into the watt-r, to fend to him, and he would come down with all his people to give us tlie neceffiry alTiflance. They had, indeed, been cotiflantly anticipating the difficulty that would attend us, as they expreffed themfelves, in pufhing the veflel into the water, whenever ihe fliould be compleated. Thefe chiefs had paid a very regular attention to tlie progrefs of her conftru6tion, from the very beginning, to her prefent ftate of approaching completion ; but without difcovering any thing like the intelligence which grew up, as it were, and daily unfolded itfelf in the mind of Tianna. Whatever opinion, therefore, we had formed of the capacity of tiiefc chiefs for tlie fentiments of friendfliip, we thought it prudent, with a view to our future interefts, as prefents had firft obtained it, to fecure the continuance of it, if poflible, by the fame prevailing iirfluence. — We accordingly prefented Maquilla, with a muflcet, a fmall quantity of ammunition, and n few blankets. Nor did Calllcum leave us with* out receiving equal tokens of our regard. t I. We made thefe chiefs fenfible in how many moons we fhould return to them ; and that we (hould then be accompanied by others of our coun- trymen, and build more houfes, and endeavour to introduce our man* ners and mode of living to the practice of our Nootka friends.— This la- formation fee med to delight them beyond meafure ; and they not only promifed us great plenty of furs on our return, but Maquilla thought proper, on the inftant, to do obedience to us as his lords and fovereigns. He took off his tiara of feathers, and placed It on my head ; he then dref- fed me lu his robe of otter Ikins ; and, thus arrayed, he made me (It dowa '"1 !**«-w NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. down oil one of his chefts filled with liuman bones, and then placed hhn- felf on the ground. His example was followed by all the natives pre- fent, when they fung one of thofe plaintive fongs, which we have! already mentioned as producing fuch a folemn and pleafiiig cffeA upon our minds. — Such were the forms by which he intended to acknow- ledge, in the prefence of his people, our fuperiority over him. — We now once more took our leave, and returned on board the (hip, clad in regal attire, and poflTefled of fovereign power. — We had, however, fcarcely left the chief, ^yhen Callicum ca.»ie running after us to particularife his commiflioiis, and repeat his adieu. — There wasfomething about this man fo amiable and afFedionate, that I wiftied to remain with him to the laft ; and I cannot help relating every trifling circumftance in this final inter- view . — He enumerated a long lift of articles, that he defired us to bring him when we Ihould return ; all of which I took down in writing, to his entire fatisfa£tion. Shoes, ftockings, an hat, and other articles of our drefs, were moft particularly requefted by him ; and, when I re- turned him my affurance that his wiflies fliould be gratified in the moft ample manner, he immediately departed, after having taking n\e round the neck, and given me a moft afFedlionatc embrace. — I felt it then, when I hoped to fee him again ;— and I feel it now— when I too well know I (hall fee him no more. Sif rir«tttft. Poor Callicum had now, as at every former period, made known his wants in a particular manner to me ; but I afterwards found that the whole village had, more or lefs, charged the memories of our people, as well officers as Teamen, with their various commidlons : — nor did the ladies of Nootka forget to make their claim to our remembrance of them. And here I cannot but mention, with fome degree of pleafure, though mingled, 1 muft own, withi a preponderating fenfation of pain, that, oil our part, all their feveral commiifions were moft minutely executed. The Argo- E «• naut )?i , -, i 3— w) ""■Sfr i^' L I ;,. V 1 I. 218 1788 StrriMBEJi. ' VOYAGES TO THE gonaut contained them all ; as alfo the feveral prefents to Maquilla, Cal- licum, Wicananifli, and the other chiefs to the Southward of King George's Sound, known by us, as well as thofe to the Northwaj'd of it, who had been dilcovered by the Iphigenia. The whole of which treafure had been fele£led and adapted with great cnre, and the inoft anxious at- tention to their fancies, as well as their neceflitics, when (he was captured by the Spaniards. • - •. It might be confidered, perhaps, as tending to leflen tlie abhorrent idea which every Englifliman Ihould feel, and of which I, above all others, ftiould be fenfible, refpeding the audacious and cruel conduft of the Spanifli officer, by mentioning the fubordinate difappointment I felt, when I refleded that Maquilla and Callicum did not enjoy their harmlefs pride in thofe drefles which had been prepared for them; and that the coffers of Wicananifti were not filled with thofe veflels which had been exprefsly, and at no little trouble, obtained to enrich them. I (hall there- fore pafs over the curious cargo provided for our Nootka friends, of which we and they were robbed by the Spanifh commander ; nor defcribe the quantity of caft-ofFcloaths, that we had coUefted at China, and loaded with buttons to fuit their fnicy ; and of which the Spaniards pofleflTed themfclves with Cuch an avidity, as if they were in want of this ward- robe, which was deftined for the fivages of Nootka, to cloath fiir greater barbarians. Comekela, of whom we never entertained a very favourable opinion, and of whofe deceitful conduft we had ample proof, notwith (landing our kindnefs to him, while he was at China, during his voyage from thence, and after his return to Nootka, confirmed us in our opinion of his ingra- titude, by leaving the Sound, without (hewing us the leaft mark of at- tention or refpedl : — He therefore loft, as he defer ved, the prefent which I was NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. X19 was referved for him ; and we fufFered him to depart without any token 1788. - , SePTIMBIK. or remembrance from us. We continued our operations, without the intervention of any particu- Wednefdayi? lar circumAance, till the 17th of September, when a fail was feen in tlie offing, which rather furprized us ; and we were not without our ap- prehenfions that it was the Princefs Royal, who had met with feme ac- cident that obliged her to return. The long-boat was immediately fent to her afliftance, which, inftead of the- Britifli veffel we expeiHied, con- veyed into the Sound a floop, named the Wafliington, from Bofton in New England, of about one hundred tons burthen. Mr. Grey, the mafter, informed us, that he had failed in company with his confort, the Columbia, a (hip of three hundred tons, in the month of Aiiguft, 1787, being equipped, under the patronage of Con- grefs, to examine the Coaft of America, and to open a fur-trade between New England and this part of the American Continent, in order to pro- vide funds for their China (hips, to enable them to return home teas and China goods. Thefe veflels were feparated in an heavy gale of wind, in the latitude of 59° South, and had not feen each other fince the period of their feparation ; — but as King George's Sound was the place of ren- dezvous appointed for them, the Columbia, if (he was fafe, was every day expedled to join her confort at Nootka. Mr. Grey uifornied us that he had put into an harbour on the Coafl: of New Albion, where he got on (hore, and was in danger of being loft on the bar : he was alfo attacked by the natives, had one man killed and one of his officers wounded, and thought himfelf fortunate in having been able to make his efcape. This harbour could only admit velTels of a very fmall Ee2 fize, Ml"l A 220 • . ' 1 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. fize, and muft lie fomewhere near the Cape, to which w« had given the September, jj^i^jg of Cape Look-OUt. I -Hf The m after of the Walhington was very much furprlzed at feeing a veflel on the ftocks, as well as on finding any one here before him ; for they had little or no notion of any commercial expeditions whatever to this part of America. He appeared, however, to be very fanguine in the fuperior advantages which his countrymen from New England might reap from this track of trade ; and was big with many mighty projeds, in which we underftood he was protedled by the American Congrefs. With thefe circumftances, however, as we had no immediate concern, we did not even intrude an opinion, but treated Mr. Grey and his fliip's company with politenefs and attention. SatiirJayio On the lotli, at noon, an event, to which we had fo long looked with , anxious expedlation, and had been the fruit of fo much care and la- bour, was ripe for accompli(hment.-wThfc veflel was then waiting to quit the ftocks ; and to give all due honour to fuch an important fcene, we adopted, as far as was in our power, the ceremony of other dock- yards.-^As foon as the tide was at its proper height, the Englilh en- fign was difplayed on flidre at the houfe, and on board the new veflel, which, at the proper moment, was named the North Weft America, as being the firft bottom ever built and launched in this part of the globe. • It was a moment of much expe£lation. — The circumftances of our fituation m^dci v^» Iwk to it with more than common hope.— Maquilla, Callicum, and a large body of their people, who bad received infor- mation of the Uunch, were come to behold it. The Chinefe carpenters did not very well conceive the laft operation of a bufinefs in which they themielves had been fo much and immaterially concerned. Norfiiallwe forget ^'§ t; K\ h I 8;' i , V o Y A a n * TO-Trtr ii2e» aatimuiVlic lotnev/hcro ntar ihiii CajJ-N to which \\iK>k-out. ■- '' , v^he.BBJtihrof clie Waftiiiigton tvas vtry" oioch furpr:?x.a at fwJTjg^ t(»|fel an'lks ftisck^r aj -n-cli .^j on luuiuif an/ one hero before hJmr'l^: i*4ev h*d l«ae or ii« aotimt ^» jjiy 5<'i>. q^ewuat ex|«^ltio!i» .yrh»t€\ tf to this |wt o4 America. He a,pp5ftw^ *f^^' tfe*" -'■*^^ '^ ^^^^^ %ii4mAMg m%h many mighty pi<>i<-aH ft>«i |>e yras prate*ftt:d by the .iVm^k/*o,.€« .stf^'ei!, as we had no immeiJkte€v.>!i«;t:i!i» ;Jte*fri!»\ T* « which we had fo loftg lookcJ wkif anxipii* (Jf-^etUt^ti, ^-d had bc«ii the imit of fq mucii ca ;.-;.• ui Ifti! hsnu ■ •■ *> I'lM .fee astsetBff&hKieat. -<*Thb' Veffirl w-as thea- Wftjtfcg fS • v^Mr^fictS|'ar,dto gjiVfc 41 tli^e'I anoiir t& iuch an. ui4|K>rta»Mc<^«> . ; ■■ ■ ■• . 's5; .«^.!- ■. ■ • vij»"'» *'^'^J'' ^'^^^^. '^'^ htaueiied m this part of" the gioba m. • ;»-^ ,.- -.U *'4- -■- J to it with tuore than con*}?n -j^ liu|^T,w-.^aqUiiH.'i;. ,;!r of th«' paiple, s^ ''; ■ h :..J feceiv^d in/^-' ■.;; the hCl o;->t:r;)ti.i, ,.; L,.'.u«!:)^-jniWhr<»h 'K-v ausch ;iuci i'-> ittaiv! -, ; ' .*■■;'< iicisd. KorfhaUiwN? -»*,# TifV ■'tV-!" B 1! ^m^' '■? m "i ^,. I 1*.-^ V '*! ./ I : mi ;«'^fc tik^- *• . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2:1 forget to mention the Chief of the Sandwich Iflaiids, whofe every power i;S8. was ablbrbed in the bufincfs that approached, and who had dv.terniined StniMiEt. to be on board the veflcl when (he glided into the water. The prefence of the Americans ought alfo to be confidcred, when we are defcribing the attendant ceremonies of this important crlfis ; whicli, from the labour that produced it> — the fcene that furrounJcd it, — the fpcinatois that be- held it, and the commercial advantages, as well as civilizing ideas, con- nefted with it, will attach fome little conl'equence to its proceeding, iu the mind pf the philofopher, as well as in the view of the politician. But our fufpenfe was not of long duration; — on the firing of a gun, the veflel ftarted from the ways like a (hot. — Indeed (he went off with fo much velocity, tliat (he had nearly made her way out of the harbour ; for the faft was, that not being very much accuftomed to this buflnefs, we had forgotten to place an anchor and cable on board, to bring her up, which is the ufual pra£lice on thefe occafions : the boats, however, footi towed her to her intended ftation ; and in a (hort time the North Weft America was anchored clofe to the Iphlgenla and the Felice. Tlanna, who was on board the velTel at the time of her being lauiicliecf^ not only faw, but may be faid to have felt the operation, as if it had been the work of enchantment ; and could only exprefs his aftoni(hment^ by capering about, clapping his hands, and exclaiming My(y, Myty ; a word the moft expre(rive in the language of the Sandwich Iflands, to convey wonder, approbation, and delight. The Chinefe carpenters were alfo in an almoft equal degree of aftoni(hment, as they had never be- fore been witnefles of fuch a fpeilacle. Nor were the natives of the Sound, who were prefent at this ceremony, Icfs imprefled by a ferics of operations, the fimpleft of which was far above their comprehenfions. In (hort> — this bufinefs did not fail to raife us fllll higher in their good opinion^ k .) 2ax VOYAGES TO THE 1788. opinion, and to afford them better and more correct notions than they irTiMiiH. jjjfi^pffQ poflcflTcd, of the fuperiority of civilized, over favage life. A commander, officers and crew, were immediately feledtcd from the Felice and Iphigenia, to navigate the North Weft America ; and each of the Ihips font her proportion of (lores on (horc, to equip her fur fea. 'Vv' \V ■'''■(■ And here, I truft, it will not be confidered as an impertinent digreflion, if I cxprcfs my gratitude to that example of profcflional rigor and pcrfe- verancc, which in my early years were fet before me, on the oppofitc fide of this continent, where ability and courage alleviated, in funie meafure, the chagrin of unfuccefsful war. The campaigns in Canada owe their only honour to the naval warfare on the lakes of that country ; and it was my good fortune, when a youth, to be enured in fuch a fchool, to the hardfhips and difficulties of naval life, and to learn there, that temper and perfeverance muft be added to profeflional knowledge, in order to furmount them. — I am ready to acknowledge that, for the little fkill I may polTefs, as a profcffional man, as well as the patience I have exercifed, and the perfeverance which 1 have exerted, in this or any other voynge, I am indebted to the rigid difclpline which neceflarily arofe from the continual aflion, hazard and conflict of the fervice in which I was firft engaged.— Some little experience has convinced me that dangers and dif- ficulties form the beft fchool of maritime education ; and he that has been fo employed as to have feen every thing, and lb circumftanced as to defpift nothing, cannot fail of rendering fervice to his country. On the 24th, the Felice being ready for fea, the orders, marked N". V. in the Appendix, were given to Captain Douglas, to dired his future proceedings. — The North Weft America was added to his command, and .1.1. Tianna i"*^-!::'- ■W" --^i4"' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. aaj Tlaniia once more embarked on board the Iphlgenia, as (he was deftitied 1 788. to carry him to the Sandwich Iflands. sirriMiii. This arrangement was preferred after fomc deliberation; for I my- felf felt a ftrong inclination to reftore the amiable chief to his country; but as I could not remain more than a few days at the Sandwich Iflands, and as the Iphigenia was deftincd to winter there, it was thought a more expedient meafure to fend him home in her ; as it would, in a particular manner attach him to her people, and, of courfe, promote their comfort and fecurity during the time, which would probably occupy feveral months, of their flay there. Thefc rcafons were fufficient for us, on ac- count of the general intereft of the expedition, to return Tianna to the Iphigenia ; — but there were alfo other reafons for purfuing this meafure, for his own fake. I I We had been informed by one of the veiTels which returned to China from the Sandwich Iflands, fubfequent to us, that Tianna's brother, Taheo, fovereign of Atooi, was become fo fearful of the power he might acquire from us, as to meditate his deftruiflion ; and that, in all probability, fome fecret attempt would be made on his arrival to cut him off. It was neceflary, therefore, for the prefervation of Tianna, that he fliould be taken back in that veflcl, which, by her long flay there, might enfure his fafety, till the jealous fit of his tyrant brother was pafled away, and a perfect reconciliation had taken place between them. 't b!"\k::.i> •iil ■•iU We now fent all the ftores we could poflibly fpare on board the Iphi- genia ; and, in return, received her cargo of furs. We alfo took on board a confiderable quantity of fine fpars, fit for top-mafls, for the Chinefe market, where they are very much wa!.':ed, and, of courfe, pro* 1788. S. riCMBER. Xlond.iy J4 , ... ...VOYAGES TO THE propQitionably dear. Indeed the wo ,;!> of this part of America are ca- pable of lupplyliig, with ihefc valuable materials, all the navies of Europe. . -. - . ■ , ■ ■■ . \ <: ■■ - . :■':■;/ •i:,.,:rrV:L.:n .'.iiV ■ In the evening the officers^ &c. of the Iphlgcnla and the North Weft America came on board the Felice to bid us farewell. Tianna was not the laft to fliew us that mark of his regard ; — and indeed, to do juflice to his amiable difpofition and friendly nature, whenever klndnefs could bd Ihewn, or genciofity cxprclTcd, he was among the firft.— Nor could he fay adieu to No'-Ja, the name unlverl^illy given me, both in America and the Sandwich Iflands, without a frame almoft convulfed with agitation, and tears gufliing down his cheeks. — Nor could I, thov'gh proceeding to complete my voyage with the fairefl hopes of fuccefs, take my leave of that worthy man, and the companions of our toilfome enterprife, without emotions that required all my reiblu- tioii to fupprefs. - . :. -./•,.; j:r, . ' , / ' . ; ■ 7 Neither (hould I do juflice to the conduft of thofe employed in this commercial expedition with me, if I did not mention the alacrity which was difplaycd by tlie officers of every denomination ; — and, indeed, by all the inferior people, to acommodate themfelvcs to our peculiar circum.- ftances. It was neceifary to have feveral changes among the crews of both fliips, in order to give a proper complement of officers and men to the North Weft America, in which the general intereftof the expedition was alone conddered by all ; — and I think it my duty to record on this grateful page, the fenfc I have of,43nd the advantages their em- ployers rieceived from, their manly and accommodating coudutfl 011 ti^p occaiion. \^ ? Wc ■ m , ' » ' i"'"'^'' ' '} • nt ■■*•' -sfi ■«i"-lr"~~: - g H " NORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA. t25 We now hove up the anchor, and, with a ftrong wind blowing 1788. from the North Weft, the Fehce put to fea. — The crews of the Iphigetiia and the North Weft America gave us three cheers at our de- parture, which awakened every echo of Friendly Cove. We returned the fame anii.t'ztu^i' dieu ;— and, before it was dark, we had almoft loft fight of Nootka Sound. It may not be improper juft to mentioii, that the day after the arri- val of the American veflel .it Nootka Sound, the difcarded boatfwain broke from his confinement, and efcaped, with feveral articles he had ftnlen, into the woods, with a view to obtain prote£tIon from the WaHiingtou; in which, as we have (Ince been informed, he fucceeded. For the mafter of that veflel, with what propriety I fliall not pretend to obferve, not only fent him provifions to his hiding-place in the woods, but, immediately on the departure of our (hips, received him on board his veflel, in which he did duty before the maft. F f CHAP. 1^^ \1 226 AH; VOYAGES TO THE 1 7881 SlPtEMBIK. u: a;'!: ll \\ %J,. ' •i''V\ ' >• CHAP. XXI. iW, ■ ■ ^1 1 ■jf, ' ' •* J. :' , 1' • ;i. %i^ - General Account of the Nations fcen on the North Wejlern Coajl of America. — 'fhe Four Nations of the Country of Nootka.-— -'Their Situation, Villages, and Population, tic-^Knowledge of the People to the Southward of ^eenhithe, in a great Degree conjeSlural. — IVicananiJIi, however, repeats the Names of their Villages. — Some Account of the American Continent, from Cape Saint James to the Southward. — Climates. — Seafons. — Winds. — Storms.— -Har- bours, &c. — Navigation^ (^c. — No conjiderable Rivers in the DiJiriH of Nootka Sound. TT7E had now taken our leave of the Coaft of America; and, while ^ ▼ the Felice may be fuppofed to be purfuing her voyage to the Sandwich Iflands, we (hall fill up the interval of her arrival there, with fuch an account of the country we have juft quitted, as we are qualified to make from our own experience, and fuch obfervations as fuggefted themfelves to us while we were acquiring it. The commercial adventurers to this part of America, who had been led thither for the furs it produced, were not without that laudable and patriot curiofity which has animated others, and indeed operated in fome of them to add new countries to the chart of the globe ; — but, whatever zeal they might poffefs, it was not in their power to fpare an adequate portion SEFTEMBSt. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. txf portion of their time from their more important obje£ts of commercial 1788. enterprize. It is true, that in purfuit of them we fell in with parts of the coaft that Captain Cook had not vifited, and communicated with people whom he had never feen ; — but the great objeft of our voyage continually checked any rifing impulfe to purfue the track of difcovery; and our par- ticular duty and interefts forced us back to thofe parts of the coaft which were more immediately connefted with the purpofes of mercantile adventure. — Hence it is that our account of this part of the American continent will be confined within narrow limits : — It will, however, we truft, poflefs the merit which accuracy can give it, and aflift thofe who may hereafter be employed to examine this remote portion of the globe. The parts of which we have any particular knowledge, extend from the latitude of 45° North to 6i° North. The longitude obtained from aftronomical obfervations, is from 205" Eaft, to 237' Eaft of Greenwich. By this longitude we mean the Weftern boundary of the coaft to the Northern Pacific ocean. — This country, as it extends to- wards Hudfon's or Baffin's Bay, is as yet unexplored, and, of courfe, unknown ; nor can we form any probable conjedture whether fuch a fpace is occupied by land or fea, as we have already obferved, in the introdudtory memoir which treats of the North Weft Paf- fage, &c. ,u.;,.l il^l With refpeft to the inhabitants of this extenfive ftiore, we have a knowledge of four different nations, w hofe occupations and manners bear a great fimilitude to each other. F f 2 From \ i A I I 2Z8 1788. StrTBMBEB. • ■ V O Y A G E S T O T H E From every information we could obtain, there is reafon to believe that the nation whicli inhabits Nootka SoiniJ, and which extends itfelf both North and South of that port, is very numerous ; but does not poflefs the flimc fiercenefsof charader as their more Northern neighbours. .. 1 im I ill iw ■l f F, '» i' ' i'-if Maquilla, with whom the reader has already been made rather inti- mately acquainted, is the fovereign of this territory ; which extends to the Northward, as far as Cape Saint James, in the latitude of 52° 20' North, and longitude of 228" 30' Eaft of Greenwich; and which cape forms the Southern extremity of the great groupe of iflands that bounds the Northern Archipelngo towards the Pacific Ocean ; and to the Southward, the dominions of this chief ilretch away to the Iflands of Wicananifli. There are alfo perfons of confiderable power, though inferior dignity to the fo^'ereign chiefs:— In this ftation of honour were Callicum and Ha- napa, who have already been particularly mentioned ; and the former of wliom has been, we truft, a pleafing companion to the reader through many a page of this volume. — Indeed, as we had no opportunity of vi- fiting the interior parts, at any diftance from the Sound, we can only communicate fuch information as we received from this amiable chief, whcfe frank and open difpofition was ever obedient to our enquiry ; and who, by pofleffing an underftanding fuperior to tlie reft of his country- men, was qualified to make tliofe communications, on which, as far as they went, we might have an unfufpedling reliance. From him we learned that there were feveral very populous villages to the Northward, entrufted to the government of the principal female re- lations of Maquilla and Callicum ; fuch as grandmothers, mothers, aunts, fifters, &c. — but the brothers, fous, and other male relations, were, from political motives, kept near the perfon of the chief himfelf. — i It ^■\ k%^.% I \ NCFTII WEST COAST OF AMERICA. It may iinU-ed be recollcL^ed, that the villnge fudiknly invaded by the enemy, and which occafioned a war expedition from Nootka Sound, has been mentioned in a formt;r chapter as being governed with unlimited fway by the grandmother of Maquilla. The mother of Callicum enjoyed a fimilar delegated power over another diftrift; and fevcral other villages were afllgned to the dire£lion of other relations, all of which were ready to join, as occaiion required, for the fupport of their mutual fafety, and to yield a ready obedience to the fummons of the fovereign chief: — The whole forming a political band of union, not very unlike to the general fy ftem of government in Europe, at an early period of its civili- zation, and which is well known under the appellation of the feudal fyftem. The number of inhabitants in King George's Sound amount to between three and four thoufand. Captain Cook eftimates the village of Nootka to contain about two thoufand inhabitants, and we do not think that it had undergone any change in its population when we were upon the coaft. But there are two other fubordinate villages in the Sound, which, between them, appeared to us to contain fifteen hundred people. One of them is fituated at a confiderable diftance up the Sound, in a diftridl committed to the jurifditElion of Hanapa. To the Northward of the Sound there are four villages, and to the Southward of it there are an equal number, of which Maquilla is the chief. From the beft information, each of thefe inhabited fpots contain, on an average, about eight hundred people ; fo that the whole of Maquilla's fubje£ls do not amount to more than ten thoufand people ; — a very fmall number indeed to occupy fo large a fpace of country ; — but the frequent wars which harafs thefe little ftates, and the 229 7788. S;:rTEMiiiK, 'ij I/' IJO VOYAGES TO THE 1788. the fiercenefs of battle among cannibal nations, are fufficient to fatlsfy SifTiMBER. us concerning the ftagnaat population of thefe people. ^ The diftri£t next to King George's Sound to the Southward, is that of Wicananlfli : though he is not confidered as equal in rank to Maquilla, yet he is entirely free and independent, and by far the moft potent chief of this quarter. In the fame diftrid refide the chiefs named Detootche and Hanna, on two fmall iflands, but who are entirely free and independent. Thefe Iflands are fituated a little to tlie Northward of Port Cox, and contain each of them about fifteen hundred people, and we did not unr derftand that they had any other dependency. The general refidence of Wicananifli is in Port Cox, where he lives in a {late of magnificence much fuperior to any of his neighbours, and both loved and dreaded by the other chiefs. His fubjeds, as he himfelf informed us, amounted to about thirteen thoufand people, according to the following eftimation : — . ,, , : i / '' ri.. In Port Cox, four thoufand ; to the Southward of Port Cox to Port Effingham, and in that Port, two thoufand; and in the other villages which are fituated as far as the mouth of the Straits of John de Fuca, on the Northern fide there might be about feven thoui'and people. — Here the dominions of Wicananifli end, and thofe of the next and lafl: chief of the Nootka territory begin, whofe name is Tatootche. The names of the feveral villages belonging to Wicananifli were given us by himfelf, and are as follow : — Kenoumahafat, Uth-u-wil-ett, ChaiflTet, Elefalt, Qii-quaet, Lee-cha-ett, Equo-lett, Mow-fchuc-fe-lett, E-lolth-lt, and Nitta-natt. Thefe names are taken down in the manner they were pronounced by Wicananifli ; and, indeed, as we pafl'ed along the \ ! w NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. S3 1 the coaft, we had communication with feveral of them, whofe inhabitants | «88. came off to us at fea, particularly from Nitta-natt, Elefoit, and E-lolth-ii. sbptemshi. Indeed, from the apparent populoufnefs of thefc villages, which we coulc. very well diftinguifli, we rather think that the chief, either from mo- defty or ignorance, under-rated the population of his country. The fubje£ls of Wicanauifli are a bold, daring people, extremely ath- letic, and fuperior in every refpeiSl: to thofe of King George's Sound ; and, at the fame time, not fo favage as thofe of Tatootche, who relides on the ifland that bears his name, and is fituatcd near the South head-land which forms the entrance of the Straits of de Fuca. With thefe people we had very little communication, but from the crowd of inhabitants collected to view the fhip, and the number of boats filled with people which furrounded her, we fliall not over-rate the number of in- habitants on this idand, by eftimating tiiem at five thoufand people. The diflrid of this chief extends to Queenhithe ; and Wicananifh informed us that it contained five villages, and about three thoufand inhabitants. We faw the large village of Queenuitett, near Queenhithe, and alfo feveral other fmaller ones, as we coafted along the fhore. We could obtain no other knowledge of any villages to the Southward of Queenhithe, but from the further information of Wlcananifh. lie indeed repeated the names of feveral, which, according to his account, were fituated a great way to the Southward, the inhabitants whereof not only fpoke a ditTerent language from the Nootka natives, but wlio varied alfo in manners and cuftoms. That this part of his intciligence was correct, we had fufficient proof, when we were off Shoaluater Bay, as the two natives who then approached the fhip, fpoke a language which I fccmed \i VI n» VOYAGES TO THE 1788. feemed to have no affinity with that of Nootka, and appeared. In the StPTiMBER. circumftances of drefs and the form of their canoe, to be a feparatc and diftlnd people from the American nations which we had vifited. The following names of the villages to the Southward of Queenhithe, were taken down, at the moment, as Wicananlfh pronounced them ;— Chanutt, Clanamutt, Chee-mee-fctt, Lo-the-att-flieeth, Lu-nee-chett, Thee-wich-e-rett, Chee-fet, Lino-quoit, Nook my-ge- mat, Amuo-lkett, Nuifl*et-tuc-fauk, Quoit- fce-noit, Na-nunc-chett, and Chu-a-na-lkett. The knowledge which Wicananifh pofleffed of the names of thcfe places, proves very evidently that either he or fome of his people have had fbme communication with the inhabitants of them. But whether this was a matter of defign or hazard, of an occafional trading intercourfe, or the accidental effects of a ftorm, which has been frequently known to have driven canoss to a great diftance, and carried the affriglited Indian to the hofpitality or the deftru^tion of a remote coaft, we cannot pretend to fay ', as it was not always in our power to make ourfelves intelligible to the favages, or render them intelligent to ourfelves. Thefe places are bevond the limits of that part of America comprifed in the four nations, extending from Prince William's Sound to Queen Charlotte's Ifles, and the Northern Archipelago ; and from thence to Nootka and Cape Shoalwater ; fo that any hiftory of the people that in- habit them, muft be a matter of mere conjedlure, and therefore totally improper to interrupt the authentic narrative before us. Of the inhabitants refiding up the Straits of de Fuca, w, could obtain no information from the people '^f Nootka ; but from the multitude in y\ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 133 which attacked the long-boat, we had no doubt that they were very 1788. SirTiMBia. numerous. The American continent, in ahnoft every part, prefents nothing to the eye but immenfe ranges of mountains or impenetrable forefts. — From Cape Saint James to Queetihithe, which we have confidered as the diftrift of Nootka, and inhabited by the fame nations, this fcene invariably prefents itfelf, and admits of very little if any variet} n fome places the country appears to be level on the coaft, but ftill the eye foon finds itfelf checked by fteep hills and mountains, covered, as well as every part of the low-land, with thick woods down to the margin of the fea. The fummitsofthe higher mountains, indeed, were compofed of iharp prominent ridges of rocks, which are clad in fnow inftead of ver- dure ; — and now and then we faw a fpot clear of wood, but it was very rare, and of finall extent. The climate of this country, that is from Cape Saint James to the Southward, is much milder than the Eaftern coaft on the oppofite fide of America, in the fame parallel of latitude. The winter generally fets in with rain and hard gales from the South Eaft, in the month of November ; but it very feldom happens that there is any froft till January, when it Is fo flight as very rarely to prevent the inhabitants from navigating the Sound in their canoes. The fmall coves and rivulets are generally frozen ; but I could not difcover that any one remembered to have feen the Sound covered with ice. The winter extends only from November to March, when the ground is covered with fnow, which difappears from off the lower lands in G g April, «34 1788. StrTEMiet. VOYAGES TO THE . April, and vegetation is then found to have made a confiderable advance. April and May are the fpriiig months, and in June the wild fruits are already ripened. To the Northward of King George's Sound the cold encreafes, and the winters are longer; as to the Southward, it ofcourfe diminishes ; and we (hould fuppofe that to the Southward of 45° there mud be one of the mofl pleafant climates in the world. > The mercury in the thermometer often ftood in the middle of fum- mer at 70°, particularly in the coves and harbours that were (heltered from the Northern winds ; but we very feldom had it lower than 40 in the evenings. Fires, however, were very acceptable both in May and September ; but we attributed th'S circumftancc in a great meafure to the South Eaft winds, which were ever attended with rain and raw cold. The North Wefterly winds, on the contrary, blow clear, but are rather cool. The winds whicli prevail during the fummer months, are the Wefterly ones, which extend their influence over the Northern Pacific Ocean, to the Northward of 30° North, as the Eafterly winds blow invariably to the equator from this latitude. Storms from the Southward are very frequent in the winter months, but there is no reafon to fuppofe that they operate with fuch a degree of violence as to prevent (hips from navigating the American coaft, in any feafon of the year. There are ffveral harbours in the diftri£l: of Nootka, which are ca- pable of receiving, into perfeft fecurity, Shipping of the largeft bur- then. King George's Sound is an abfolute colledtion of harbours and coves, which are (heltered from the violence of all winds. Port Cox. and Port Efiinghamare of the firft kind for capacioufnefs and fafety; and to the Northward of Nootka to Cape Saint James, we may fafely conjecture l^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. m conje£lure that there are founds and harbours equal to any which have 1781. been already defcribed. Befides, this coaft is by no means difficult to s^'t****** navigate, from its very deep waters and bold fliores. We cannot but confider it as a remarkable circumdance, that during the whole length of our coafting voyage, we did not meet with a fingle river of any magnitude. The very fmall ftreams which emptied thcm- felves every where into the fca, were generally fupplied by rains and fnow from the mountains. We found alfo very few fprings ; fo that from thefe and other circumflances, with fuch accounts as we could get from the natives, we had been frequently diCpofed to imagine, that the land which we had confide red as the American coad, was a chain of iflands, feparated by large and capacious channels from the con- tinent*. \. * This conjedure will be confidered in one of the Introduftory Memoirs, with fome account of the voyage of the American floop Wafliington, in the autumn of 1789, which was not received till we were thus far advanced in our Narrative. \ ^ ' Gg2 CHAP. a36 ir88. VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. XXII. cf ;( I1M : li I Account of the DiJIriSi of Nooika conttnued.^Fegetable ProJu^ions.'—Grear Plenty of JVild Fruits.— Efculent Roots, Ifc.—^adruptds Deer.— Foxes, —Martens. — The Ermine. — Squirrel, tSc. — Marine jinimals. — The JVhali\ Sword Fiji}, Seals, ^c. — Particular Account of the Sea Otter. — Various Kinds of Birds. — Ajualic Fowls. — Fi^J of various Kinds. — Manner of taking fame of them. — Reptiles.-— InfeSls. — Minerals.— Conj ell ures concern- ing Mines in this Country, tic. &c.. THE vegetable produ£tions of the diftriA of Nootka, which have come to our knowledge, arc not numerous, though we mud ac- knowledge that our botanical enquiries were ncceffarily very confined.— We have no doubt but that confiderable additions might be made from this country to the colleiSted ftores both of Zoology and Botany ; but we wanted (kill fufficient to render ourfelves ferviceable in this pleafing range of fcience. We fhared the natural lot of all private expeditions equipped for the purpofes of commercial adventure, in which a knowledge of thefe branches of philofophy is not an eflential qualifi- cation, and where even every purfuit of fcience muft give way to thofc of mercantile advantage. Among the trees which compofe thefe forefts, we obferved the black and white fpruce, with the pine and cyprefs ; and a great variety with whofe form and foliage we were wholly unacquainted ; many of which, however, would anfwer every purpofe of the dock-yard. Timbers cut from fome of them proved fo extremely hard, that it was with difficulty they could be worked into fhape. We particularly remarked that in King George's Sound, t \ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «37 Sound, Port Cox, and Port Effingham, the trees in general grow with 1788. great vigour, and are of a fize fufficient for mafts of any dimenfions. «"«»«»"'• On the rocky iflands, and in the woods, we found the wild ftrawberry in great abundance. There were alfu currant trees of the blaclc kind, and goofeberry bufhes, which Teemed to bear fruit only in certain parts. There is a fpecies of ralberry of the moft delicious flavour, and far fu- perior to any fruit of that kind we had ever before taftcd. It grows on a larger bu(h than our European rafberry, and is free from thorns ; but the fruit itfelf is fo delicate, that a fliower of rain wafhes it entirely away. There is alfo a fmall red fruit, not unlike in fize, fliape and tafte, to our currant, which grew on trees of a confiderable fize, in the greateft abundance. It is a favourite food of the natives, and during the months of July and Augud, the chief employment was to gather it, and a Ipecies of blackberry, both red and white, but very much fuperior to our wild, fruit of that kind, both in fize and flavour. y The quantities of berry fruits that the natives brought us, proved their extreme plenty. To us they were a very falutary as well as pleafant addition to our table, and the failorg fat down every day to a pudding made of them. We alfo prefcrvcd feveral fmall caiks of the red fruit with fugar, which lafted feveral mouths, and were very fer- viceable to us at fea. Wild leeks grow every where in the greateft profufion ; and the efculent roots are in great variety, fome of which have a tafte fimilar to the fea fpinnage. When, however, tliey could not be procured, the tops of the young nettle proved an excellent fucccdaneum. Of thefe the natives are immoderately fond ; after having ftripped the younger plants of a thin coat, they eat them in their raw ftate. Towards » » )i » ii H -^.»^- 238 1788. SlPTfMBIR. VOYAGES TO THE Towards the watcr-fule we obferved great quantities of wild wheat, or goofo-grafs. We every wliere found in the woods wild rofes and fweet-briar, which perfumed the air. We faw alfo the anthericum that bears the orange-flower, and many other kinds of plants, which our ignorance in the botanic fcieuce prevents us from enumerating or attempting to defcribe. Indeed, the conftant employment which our commercial concerns required of us, was wholly unfavourable to the refcarches of natural philofophy ; but we have every reafon to believe that any one of botanical experience, who fhould vifit this coaft in the fummer feafon, would add to the flock of his knowledge in this ufeful and delightful fcience. The quadrupeds which we had an opportunity of feeing, were very few ;— they were deer, racoons, martens, fquirrels and foxes. The deer which we received as prefents from the chiefs were very fmall, but we have feen others in their poflTefliou of the moofe kind, extremely large, with branching horns. We believe, however, that the latter were not in great plenty : indeed in all our excurfions we never were fo fuccefsful as to bring one home, though we had feen and wounded them. »i The foxes are very common, and differ much in fize and colour ; fbme are yellow, with a long, foft, and very beautiful fur : others are of a dirty red ; and a third fort of a kind of afh colour. The marten bears a ftrong refemblance to that of Canada, particularly as to fize and (haps ; but it is not fo black, nor is its ikin fo valuable as thofe brought from that country. There is alfo another fpecies of them here, whofe hair is fo very coarfe as to be in little or no eftimation with the natives. The W- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 239 The ermine Is very fcarce ; and thofe of this animal which we faw, 1788. were rather of a yellowlfli colour, and pofleffing, in no degree, that Ssptembir. beautiful whitenefs which makes them fo eftimable in the countries of Europe. Neither racoons or fquirrels appeared to be in great plenty ; the former are tame like thofe of Eaftcrn America, and the latter arc fmaller than our European fquirrel, but not of fo bright a colour. During the time we remained on the coaft, we faw but two beaver Ikins ; but they were the richeft fpecimens of that fur which we ever remember to have feen. :'il The natives made frequent mention of bears, of which they gave us tounderftand there were great numbers in the forefts, of a very fierce nature, and with whom they fometimes had terrible battles; but we were never fo fortunate as to fee one of them ; and though feme of our people went out occafionally a bear hunting, they always returned without the gratification even of having feen their game. Our knowledge did not extend further than to the above animals, though It is more than probable, that there are many other kinds of them who inhabit the forefts of this country : — Indeed, we faw fklns which ferved for the drefs, ornament, or armour of the natives, that muft have belonged to animals which we had not fccn. Though thefe might be got In bartering with thofe tribes who may be fuppofed to inhabit the interior parts of the country. The mountain iheep, though inhabitants of the Northern part of the coaft, do not extend themfelves fo far to the Southward as the diftrift of Nootka ; at leaft we never faw their fleece or their horns, I which 340 V G YAG E S TO THE 1788. which are in fuch univerfal ufe with the Indians of Prince William** *"iMM». Sound and Cook's River. i, \-\f ♦•^■'aI^^ The fea coafts of this country abound with numerous marine ani- mals ; fuch as whales, both of the bone and fpermaceti kind; thrafliers, grampulTes, porpoifes, both black and white, feals, fea-lions, fea-cows, the river otter, and above all, the fca-otter. During the fummer, when employed in navigating the coaft, we fav» great numbers of whales, and were fometimes witnefles to dreadful battles between them, the fword-fifli and the thraflier, who filled the air with the noife of their combats. The natives, in hunting the whale, prefer thofc fmall ones with hunches on their backs, as being the moft ealy to kill. They purfue alio the fea-lion and the fea-cow for the fame reafon. The vaft number of feals which are every where feen, render them an eafy prey to the natives, who confider them as delicious food. Their Ikins are of a Clvery colour, fpotted with black, and covered with a coarfe hair. The flefli of the fea-cow and fea-lion are eftcemed peculiar delica- cies, and are even preferred to the whale; but are very fcarce to the Southward. — More to the North they are found in great plenty. The number of thefe animals which are deftroyed by the natives for food, muft be very confiderable : the grampus and porpoife feem, in fome degree, to efcape this general deftru£tion, being confidered as in- ferior, both in point of ufefulnefs or luxury. But abundant as the whales may be in the vicinity of Nootka, they bear no comparifoii to the numbers feen on the Northern part of the coaft : indeed the generality of thefe hage [marine animals delight in the frozen cli- mates. The i \ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The fea-otter we believe to be an inhabitant of every part of the North Weftern Coaft of America, from the latitude of 30° North to 60° North. Their fur is the fineft in the wrorld ; it poflefles a jetty blacknefs, and is of exceeding beauty. The peculiar warmth it affords, renders it amoft valuable clothing in the colder climates ; but confidercd in an ornamental view, it has a rich and magnificent appearance, and, under a certain arrangement, may vie even with the royal ermine. a4t 1788. SSFTEMBEt. I The ocean bordering on the American coaft is not the exclufive habi- tation of the fca-otter : — that animal frequents the coaft of Japan and that of China, particularly in the Yellow Sea, and the neighbourhood of Corea ; but we have never heard that tlicy arc found farther to the Southward. They, indeed, deligiit in, as they fcemed to be formed for, cold climates, and are wonderfully clad to refift the feverity of the coldeft region. There are, however, particular places to which they never fall to refort in great numbers, as is fuppofcd, on account of the ftioals of fifli which frequent them, and are the food of the otter. 'I\ This animal, like the river-otter, is of an amphibious nature ; but their peculiar element is the fea. They are fometimes feen many leagues from land, fleeping on their backs, on the furface of the water, with their young ones reclining on their breaft. As the cubs are incapable of fwimming till they are feveral months old, the mother muft have fome curious method of carrying them out to fea, and returning them to their hiding places on fliore, or in the cavities of rocks that proje£l into the fea: indeed, they are known to fleep with their young on their breaft, and to fwim with them on their back ; but if they (hould be unfortu- nately overtaken by the hunters, the dam and her brood always die together : — She will not leave her young ones in the moment of danger, aud therefore fhares their fate. H h From ■M(^ HZ 1788. SlriEMUEI. VOYAGES TO THE From the formation of their lungs they are unable to remain under water longer than two minutes, when they are forced to rife to the fur- face for refpiration ; and it is this circumftance which gives their pur- fuers fuch advantage over them ; — though the wonderful fwiftnefs with which they fwim, very often baffles the utmoft attention and (kill of the hunter. V ,\ Nature has furniflied this creature with powerful weapons of offence and deftrudtion. Its fore-paws are like thofe of the river-otter, but of much larger fize, and greater flrength : — its hind-feet are Ikirted with a membrane, on which, as well as on the fore-feet, there grows a thick and coarfe hair:— its mouth contains moft formidable rows of teeth, fuperior to any other marine carnivorous animal except the fliatk. The fur varies in beauty according to the different gradations of life.— The young cubs of a few months old, are covered with a long, coarfe, white hair, which protects the fine down that lies beneath it. — The na- tives often pluck off this coarfe hair, when the lower fur appears of a beautiful brown colour and velvet appearance. As they encreafe in age this long hair falls off, and the fur becomes blackifh, but ftlll remains fhort. — When the animal is full grown, it becomes of a jet black, and cncreafes in beauty ; the fur then thickens, and is thinly fprinkled with white hairs. — When they are paft their ftate of perfeftion, and verge to- wards old age, their fkin changes into a dark-brown, dingy colour, and, of courfe, proportionably diminiflies in value. This is the beft account we could obtain of this curious and valuable animal ; for it would be impoflible for us to defcribe, with any degree of fatisfaftion, the different kinds of otter Ikins brought to us for fale. The great variety of colour, from a chefnut brown to a jet black, which 5 we k "v V' % .-rti^.l: - »^d ^\ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. we obfcrved in them, makes it difficult for us to afcertain the precife period of their lives when they have arrived at perfection. At firft we really fuppofed them to be the Ikins of different animals, or of vari- ous fpecies of the fame animal : — but we afterwards difcovercd what we have .already dated concerning the advancement of them to beauty ; and perhaps other circumftances may combine to haften, or retard the period of their moft perfeft ftate. — We are difpofed to imagine that they undergo an annual change in their fur, either by fhedding the old, or acquiring new ; and that their (kins are confiderably afFefted by the different feafons of the year. — We obferved that the Ikins of the otters killed during the winter, were of a more beautiful black, and, in every refpeft, more per- fect than thofe which were taken in the fummer or autumn. The Chinefe, who muft be confidered as the beft judges of thefc fkins, clafs them under eight or ten denominations, and affix to each a proportionate value, concerning which they would never fuffer us, in our bargains with them, to intrude an opinion. — As furriers, they held us, and perhaps with fome reafon, in very low eftimation. 243 1788. SirrKMBERa mm The male otter is, beyond all comparifon, more beautiful than the fe- male, and is diftinguiftied by the fuperior jetty colour, as well as velvet appearance of his Ikin ; whereas the head, throat and belly of the female, is not only covered with a fur that is white, but which is alfo of a very coarfe texture. The (kins in the higheft eftimation, are thofe which have the belly and throat plentifully interfperfcd with a kind of brilliant filver hairs, while the body is covered with a thick black fur, of extreme finenefs, and a filky glofs. — Indeed in this ftate, the fur of the fea otter is, taken in all its circumftances, fuperior for cloathing, to tliat of any other animal in the world. H h 2 It 244 VOYAGE STOTHE 1788. It is however faid in China, that the fkins of this animal taken SiFTEMBER. j^ jj^g Corcaii and Japan feas, are fuperior to thofe of Ruflia or the North Weftern Coaft of America. The abundance of thefe animals, which frequent every part of the Ame- rican coaft, occafion their being caught without much difficulty by the natives ; who not only owe the magnificence of their appearance, as well as a moft comfortable prote£kion againft the feverity of their winters, to the (kin of the fea-otter, but alfo find in its flefti what they confider as moft delicious food. It differs from the river otter, or capucca, as called by the people of Nootka, and which is the fame as that of Canada : in its form, fize, and fur, It is far fuperior. i I 'i The fpecies of birds which frequent the American ftiore are very con- fined : — We obferved the crow, the magpie, the thrufh, the wood- pecker, the wren, the king-fiftier, the common land-lark, the plover, the hawk, and the wliite-headed eagle. The wood-pigeon was alfo fome* times, but very rarely feen. The aquatic fowls were far more numerous ; and confifted of the com- mon fea-gulls and fhags ; many kinds of ducks and divers ; the fea-parrot, and many others, of which we knew not the names. Mi Vaft quantities of fifti are to be found, both on the coaft and in the founds or harbours. — Among thefe are the halibut, herring, fardinc, filver-bream, falmon, trout, cod, elephant-fifh, ftiark, dog-fifli, cuttle-filh, great variety of rock-fifti, &c. All of which we have feen in the poffef- fion ©f the natives, or^have been caught by ourfelves. There are, proba- I bly. ( ^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 245 biy., a great abundance of other kinds, which are not to be taken by the 1788. hook, the only method of taking fifli with which the natives are ac- "'**•■**• quainted, and we had neither trawls or nets. In the fpring, the herrings as well as the fardines, frequent the coaft m vaft (hoals. The herring is from feven to eight inches long, and, in general, fmaller than thofe taken in the Britifli feas. The (iirdine refembles that of Portugal, and is very delicious : they are here taken by the people in prodigious quantities. — They firft drive the fhoals into the fmall coves, or (hallow waters, when a certain number of men in canoes, keep plafliing the water, while others fink branches of the pine with ftones ; the fifli are then eafily taken out with wooden troughs or wicker baflcets. We have fometimes feen fuch numbers of them, that a whole village has not been able to clean fe them before they began to grow putrid. After being cleaned, they are placed on roJs, and hung in rows, at a certain diftance, over their fires, that they may be fmoked ; and when they are fufficiently dried, they are carefully packed up in mats, and laid by as a part, and a very confiderablc part, of their winter's provifion. The feafon for taking thefe filh is in the months of July and Auguft. Certain people, at this time, arc ftationcd on particular emi- nencies, to look for the arrival of the fhoals, which can be very readily diftiiiguifhed by the particular motion of the fca. The natives then embark in their canoes to proceed in their fifhery. The fardine is pre- ferred by them to every other kind of fifh, except the fiilmon. In the months of July, Auguft, and September, falmon are taken, though not in fo great abundance as the other fifh, but are of a very delicate flavour. They are fplit, dried, and packed up, as has already been defcribcd, and are confidered as a great delicacy. The falmon of ^iH) «^j?ir>-' »46 V O YAG E S TO THE 1788. of the diftrldl of Nootka are very different from thofe found to the Shtimiii. jjg^orthward, which are of an inferior kind, and of the fame fpecies with thofe taken at Kamtfchatka. . 1 , ^ ' During our (lay in King George's Sound, we faw very few Hiarks or halibut ; but the cod taken by the natives were of the baft quality :— they are alfo prepared, like the reft, for the purpofe of winter (lores. We faw the red fnapper here, but it was very uncommon ; and we now and then obferved the large cuttle-fifh, which the natives eat with great relifti in its raw ftate. The mufcles are of a very large fize, and filled with a fmall, fecdy pearl, about the fize of a pin's head, very ill t ;/ 'ill ■) from the number of floating buoys which are now attached to his body. The whale then drowns, and is towed on (hore with great noife and rejoicings. It is then immediately cut up, when part is dedkated to the fcaft which concludes the day, and the remainder divided among thofe who iiave fliared in the dangers and glory of it. The taking of the fea-otter is attended with far greater hazard as well as trouble. For this purpofe two very fmall canoes are prepared, in each of which arc two expert hunters. The inftruments they em- ploy on this occafion are bows and arrows, and a fmall harpoon. The latter ditTers, in fome degree, from that which they ufe in hunting the whale; the fhaft is much the fame, and is pointed with bone; but the harpoon itfelf is of a greater length, and fo notched and barbed, that wlien it has once entered the flefli, it is almofl: impoflible to extricate it. This is attached to the fhaft by feveral fathoms of line of fufficient ftrength to drag the otter to the boat. The arrows are fmall, and pointed with bone, formed into a fuigle barb. Thus equipped, the hunters pro- ceed among the rocks in fearch of their prey. Sometimes they furprife him flecping on his back, on the furface of the water ; and, if they can get near the animal without awakening him, which requires infinite precaution, he is eafily harpooned and dragged to the boat, when a fierce battle very often enfues between the otter and the hunters, who are frequently wounded by the claws and teeth of the ani- mal. The more common mode, however, of taking him is by pur- fuit, which is fometimcs continued for feveral hours. — As he cannot re- main under water but for a very fhort time, the skill in this chace confifls in dire£ting the canoes in the fame line that the otter takes when under the water, at which time he fwims with a degree of celerity that greatly exceeds tl at of his purfuers. They therefore feparate, in order to have tlie better chance of wounding him with their arrows at the 5 momen^ m ^ i iu -,» *. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, a6i moment he rifes; though it often happens that this wary and cunning 178S. animal efcapes from the danger which furrounds him. LvitMSk*. It has heen obferved, in the account ahcady given of the otter, that when they are overtaken with their young ones, the parental afflftion fuperfedes all fcnfe of danger; and both the male and female defend their offspring with the moft furious courage, tearing out the arrows and harpoons fixed in them with their tectli, and oftentimes even attacking the canoes. On thefc occafions, however, they and their litter never fail of yielding to the power of the hunters. The dif- ficulty of Uking the otter might indeed occafion fomc degree of fiirprife at the number of the skins which the natives appear to have in ufc, and for the purpofes of trade. But the circumftancc may be ealily ac- counted for, by the conftant exercife of this advantageous occupation : fcarce a day paffes, but numbers arc eagerly employed in the purfuit of it. The feal is alfo an animal very difficult to take, on account of ita being able to remain under water. Artifices are therefore made ufc of to decoy him within reach of the boats ; and this is done in general by the means of malks of wood made in fo exadl a refemblance of nature, tliat the animal takes it for one of his own fpecles, and falls a prey to the deception. On fuch occafions, fome of the natives put on thefe masks, and liiding their bodies with branches of trees as they lie among the rocks, the feals are tempted to approach fo near the fpot, as to put it in the power of the natives to pierce them with their arrows. Si- milar artifices are employed againft the fea-cow, &c. The otters, as well as fomu of the laud animals, are, we believe, occafionally taken la the f:uiie manner. ill'' v.! Tl le i; ■ I s6a 1788. SlPTtMlitR V O Y A C; E S TO T H F, The very preparation for the bufiners of hunting and fidiing, re- quires no fmall portion of domeftic employment. Their harpoons, hnes, (i(h-hookj, bows and arrows, and otlier i.Tjplements iicccflary in the different purfuits of peace and war, muft make a very gic.it demand upon their time. Belidcs, they contrived to forge the metals t\\ey re- ceived from us into various ornaments, after their falhion, for their favourite wives or miftrclTes. la thefe domeftic operations the boys were always made ta give their afilftance, and learn to form the mate- rials with which they were hereafter to gain tlieir fuftenanceand their glory. The ingenuity of thefc people in all the different arts that is necef- fary to their fupport and their pleafure, is matter of juft admiration to the more cultivated i;arts of the globe. Nature, that fond and bounteous parent to her children of every kind, has left none of them without thofe means which are capable of producing the relative happinefs of all. But the moft laborious, as well as moft curious employment in which we law the natives of Nootka engaged, (for we had no opportunity of feeing them conftrU(5l one of their enormous houfes,) was the making their canoes ; which was a work of no common (kill and ability. Thefe boats are, many of them, capable of containing from fifteen to thirty men, with eafc and convenience ; and at the fame time are elegantly moulded and highly fuiiftied ; and this curious work is ac- compliflied with utenfils of ftone made by themfelves. They even manufiiSlured tools from the iron which tliey ob- tained from us ; and it was very feldom that we could perfuade them to make ufe of any of our utenfils in preference to their own, except the faw, whofe obvious power in diminifliing tlieir labour, led tiiein to adopt it without hefitation. In particular, they contrived to forgo from \ ! ■ ifc I '1 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. from the iron tluy procured of us, a kind of tool, which anfwcrcd the purpofe of hollowing out large trees mucli better than any utcufil wc could give them. This bufincfs tlicy accompliflied by main ftrength, with a flat ftone by way of anvil, and a round one which fervcd the purpofe of an hammer ; and with thefc inftruments they fhapcd the iron from the fire into a tool bearing fome rcfemblance to a coupcr's adze, which they faftened to an handle of wood with cords made of fuiews ; and being fharpcnid at the end, was extremely well adapted to the ufcs for which it was intended. 263 1788. SirTKMBEIt. Their large war canoes were generally finifhed on the fpot where the trees grew of which they are made ; and then dragged to the water- fide. Wchave feen fonic of them which were fifty-three feet in length, and eight feet in breadth. The middle part of thefe boats is the broadeft, and gradually nariows to a point at each end ; Lut their head or prow is generally much higher than the ftern. As their bottoms are rounded and their fides flam out, they have confe- quently fufficient bearings, and fwim firmly in the water. They huve no feats, but feveral pieces of wood, about three inches in diameter, are fixed acrofs them, to keep the fides firm, and preferve them from being warped. The rowers generally fit on their hams, but fometimes they make ufe of a kindof fmall ftool, which is a great relief to them, hi the a£l of embark- hig they are extremely cautious, each man regularly taking the ftation to which he has been accuftomed. Some of thefe canoes are polifhed and painted, or curioufly ftuddcd with human teeth, particularly on the ftern and the prow. The fid.s were fometimes adorned with the figure of a dragon with a long tail, of much the fame form as we fee on the porcelain of China, and in the fanciful paintings of our own coun- try. Wc were much ftruck with this circumftance, and took fome I- pains IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ >^ ks- ^/ -.^>t^ ^ 1.0 ^1^ U£ II S? ua 12.0 lU u Hi0togra{jiic .Sciences Corporatton ^?^ \ ^. **. ^/v 23 WBT MAIN STRin «VnSTIR,N.Y. t45M (71«) •72-4503 4^ cS^ «64 VOYAGES TO THE ii||R !| f i |i If Hyi'i I ii 1788. pains to get at the hiftory of it ; but it was among many other of our enquiries to which we could not obtain any fatisfadlory anfwer. After we had been fomc time in King George's Sound, the natives began to make ufe of fails made of mats, in imitation of ours. We had, indeed, rigged one of Hanna's large canoes for him, with a pendant, &c. &c. of which he was proud beyond mcafure ; and he never approached the (hip but lie hoifled his pendant, to the very great diverfion of our Teamen. The paddles are nicely fliapcd and well polished with fifli-skin : they are about five feet fix inches in length; and the blade, which is about two feet long, is pointed like a leaf, and the point itfelf is lengthened feveral inches, and is about one broad. At the end of the handle there is a tranfvcrfe piece of wood like the top of a crutch. Thefe paddles the natives ufe in a mofl dextrous manner, and urge on the canoes with inconceivable fwiftncfs. <-;'; ) In no one circumftance of their difFerent occupations do the natives of Nootka difcover more dexterity than in that of fifliing. They how- ever always preferred their own hook?, which were made from ihells, or the bone of f\Ch, to ours ; nor indeed would they ever make ufe of the latter ; but our lines they confidered as very fuperior to thofe of their own manufa£lure. Thefe arc made from the finews of the whale, which furnifhes them with the materials of all their different cordage,— or from fea-wecd, which grows on the coaft in great abundance. This is fpllt, boiled, and dried, when it forms a very tough and ftrong line. But bcfides the common pra£Hce of angling, they have a very parti- cular method of taking herrings, fardines, &c. This is managed with a flick or pole about eighteen feet long, with a blade of twelve or four- teen \\ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. teen inches broad, and fix feet long, on both fides of which are fixed a number of (harp pieces or points of bone, about three inches in length. When the (hoal of fifli appears, they ftrike this inftrument into the water, and feldom fail of bringing up three or four fifh at every ftroke. — We have often feen a fmall canoe nearly filled with herrings, &c. in a very Hiort time, by this eafy method of fifhing. But, although thefe people are fo dextrous in their various employments, and fo a£tive when in a ftatc of exertion, they are naturally of an indo- lent and lazy difpofition ; and would, in general, prefer to idle away their time in the filth of their habitations, than go forth to the ho- nourable and diAinguifhing, as well as neceflary, duties of killing the whale and hunting the otter. We have oftentimes feen the bufy Cal- licum obliged to exert his compulfory power to call them from their domefiiic indulgence, to throw the harpoon, or let fly the arrow. 265 I ';88. SErTEMDSK. I & u The women have alfo their j-ppointed occupations. It is their de- partment to clean the fea-otter skins, and ftretch them on frames, which they perform with habitual ingenuity. Every branch of culinary fci- cnce, as well as of the houfehold csconomy, is likewll'e committed to them ; and it is among their duties to keep watch during the niglit, in order to alarm the men in cafe of any fudden incurfion of an enemy.— They not only drefs the provifions for the day, but prepare the (lores for winter fufteuance. — The garments which have been already defcrihed as made from the bark of trees, are of female manufacture. They alio colleft the wild fruits and efculent plants that are found in the woods, or take the (hell-fifli, which are in great plenty among the rocks, or on the fea-fide. When the canoes return from their little voyages, they are em- ployed in unlading them of their cargoes, liauling them on the beacli, and i : i*i covering :1 V.M .;[ ^1 li a66 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. Seftemuer. 1« %m I covering them with branches of the pine, as a prote£lion from the weather. On all thefc occafions, however, the female flaves take a proportionable (hare of the labour. They havr, alfo their conjugal and maternal duties ; nor (hall we be fo unjuft as not to mention that the women of Nootka are tender mothers and affec- tionate wives : indeed we have beheld inftances of fondnefs for their cliildrcn, and regard for their huibands, which mark the influence of thofe fenfibilities that form the chief honour of the female chara£ler among the moA polifhed nations of the globe. The fea is the great market to which thefc people refort, and where, as has already been made to appear, a vaft plenty of fifh of various kinds is purchafcd by their labour. According to the beft information we could obtain, the ice on this part of the coaft, feldom or never pre- clude* them from having accefs to the fea : though the very precautious they ufe in laying up ftores for winter, and the hiftory which Mr. Mac- cay gives of the dlftrefs they fufFered while he was araongft them, is an evident proof that they fometimes undergo very great hardfliips from want of provifions during the cold months. Whatever food is capable of being preferved, they do not fail to prepare for the colder feafons of the year. Even the fpawn of fi(h is confidercd as a winter ftore, and colledled in the following manner. In the beginning of the fum- mer, they fpread at the head of the founds and bays, a great quan- tity of the branches of trees, on which the fpawn of the fifh natu» rally incrufts itfelf; when, at a proper period, it is ft ripped off and put carefully into fifli bladders. This kind of cavear the natives conHder as a deficacy both in its dry and raw ftate. The roe of the falmon is alfo ftored up inrfie fame manner ; but they collect it from the fifli itfelf, which is feen in autumn almoft burfting with this favourite article of winter luxury. They eat it as well as all their dried filh with oil, and t without ^ n NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. without any other preparation. As it has been found neceflary to mention in other parts of this volume, the different animals thefe people take for food, — for indeed they eat every thing, more or lefs, which they take, — we ihall not add what might be efleemed an unnecelTary re> petition. » A ftate of favage life is univerfally found to be a ftate of warfare ; and the Nootka nations are not only in frequent hoftilities with the more diftant tribes, but even among thcmfclves ; particularly Wicananifli and Tatootche. Stratagem and furprife form the ofFenfive points of their mihtary art ; its defenfive operations, if we may ufe the expreflion, are vigilance and precaution. Their villages, &c. therefore, are generally built in fituations not eafily to be attacked without danger. But they do not truft to any fecurity of (ituation ; for in peace as well as in war a continual watch is kept during the night by women, who, fitting round their fires, keep each other awake, by relating the battles of their nation, or recounting the prowefs and gallant deeds of their hufbands and their children. One man alone performs the part of centinel on the outfide of the houfe, where he is placed in fuch a manner as to hear the lead noifo that may be made in the woods, or on the water. — Indeed, this continual vigilance is a mod eflential part of their government ; as among thefe favage people an opportunity of gaining advantage is oftentimes the fignal for war ; and, therefore, they can never be faid to be in a ftate of peace : They muft live in conftant expectation of an enemy, and never relax from that continual preparation againft thofe hoftilities and incurfions which doom the captives to flavery or to death. The chiefs of this country have a cuftom which, as it appears prin- cipally to be derived from the wars of the different ftates with each other, may be mentioned with propriety in this place. This cudom ij,. LI a confifta i6'/ 1788. SfFTIMBIt. ii m ri '\ .; x68 V O YAG E S TO THE 1788. 1/ confifts in yielding up their wives to, or interchanging them with, each other. A beautiful woman will fometimes occaHon a war in the defarts of Nootka, as it formerly did in the fields of Troy : a woman is fome- times found neceflary to Tooth a conqueror, or to purchafe a-favourable article in a treaty. Indeed, the privileges which the chiefs poflefs of having as many wives as they pleafe, may, perhaps, have arifen from an experience of the political purpofes to which female charms may be applied in peace or in war. We could not, however, but obferve, that in the whole di{lri£l of Nootka, the women did not appear to bear an equal proportion to the men. To the Northward, on the contrary, the number of females greatly preponderates ; a circumftance which will engage fome degree of curiolity, as it is hereafter defcribed in one of thofe chapters which contain the voyage of the Iphigenia from Samboingan to Nootka Sound. The marriage ceremonies of thefe people conHft of nothing more than a feaft given by the friends of the parties. With what rites or forms they coniign the dead to their lafl abode, we had no opportunity of ob« ferving. We remember to have feen fmall oblong boxes, which contained the dt:ad bodies of children hanging on the branches of trees ; and which, as we underflood, were, after a certain time, taken down and buried ; but we rather think this cuftom was peculiar to children, as we never faw the remains of any perfon of full growth in fuch a fituation. Of the religion of thefe people we have no very correft idea ; but (hall relate what we know of thofe principles which conne£l them with the Deity, and their prefeut life with one that is to come. In moft of their houfes they have, as has already been obferved, certain huge idols or * images \\ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. images, to whom we never faw them pay any mark of cotiimon refpfA, much lefs of worHiip or adoration. 1 hefe mifliaprn figures occupied, as it appeared, fomewhat of a diAinguiihed and appropriate place, wherever we faw them ; but they ieemed to have no exclufive privilege whatever, and (harcd the common filth of thofe who lived beneath the fame roof with them. Indeed, we had for fome time, no reafon for fuppofing that they had an idea of a Deity, till we explained to tliem t!)e caufe of our fufpenfion from labour on Sunday ; and we (hould have quitted Ame- rica in a total ignorance, as to any principle of their faith, if the fon of Hanapa, a boy of very uncommon fagacity for a niitive of Nootka, had not unfolded to us the following very concife hillory of their religion; which, however, is fufficient to prove that they enjoy the commor* and confblatory belief of the intellectual world in a future and better (late of exiAence. This difcovery arofe from our enquiries on a fubje£l of avery different n.iture. — On exprefling our wifli to be informed by what meiins they be- came acquainted with copper, and why it was fuch a peculiar obje«ft of their admiration,— this intelligent young man told us all he knew, and as we believe all that is known by his nation on the fubjedt. Where words were wanting, or not intelligible, which frequently happened in the courfe of his narration, he fupplied the deficiency by thofe expreffive aiflions which nature or neceffity feems to have communicated to people whole language is confined; and the young Nootkan ilifcjvered fomuch (kill in conveying his ideas by figns and fymbols, as to render his dif- courfe perfedtly intelligible whenever he found it neccflary to have rc- courfe to them. He related his ftory in the following manner : — He firft placed a certain number of fticks on the ground, at fmall dif- tances from each other, to which he gave feparate names. Thus he called 5 the 269 1788. i i n ■11 >' I, :." '5l »7o I «■ * i 1788. VOYAGES TO THE the firft his father and the next his grandfather : he then took what remain- ed, and threw them all into confufion together; as much as to fay that they were the general heap of his anceftors, whom he could not individually reckon. He then, pointing to this bundle, faid that when they lived, an old man entered the Sound in a copper canoe, with copper paddles, and every thing elfe in his poflefTion of the fame metal : — That he paddled along the (hore, on which all the people were aflembled, to contemplate fo ftrange a fight ; and that, having thrown one of his copper paddles on (hore, he himfelf landed. The extraordinary flranger then told the natives, that he came from the Iky, — to which the boy pointed with his hand,— that their country would one day be deAroyed, when they would all be killed, and rife again to live in the place from whence he came. Our young interpreter explained this circumflance of hiy narrative by lying down as if he were dead ; and then, riling up fuddenly, he imitated the a£tion of foaring through the air. He continued to inform us that the people killed the old man, and took his canoe ; and that from this event they derived their fondnefs for copper. He alfo gave us to underftaud that the images in their houfes were intended to reprefent the form» and perpetuate the million of the old man who came from the flcy. Such was the imperfe£l tradition which we received of what may be called the facred hiftory of this country, and on which the inhabitants reded the common hope of the human mind in every Ante and form of our nature,— that there will be an exiftence hereafter, beyond the reach of (ublunary Ibrrow. ^4.51^ Thus have we given fuch an account of this people, country, and the cuftoms of it, as occurred to our obfervation. We had not time, even if we NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 271 tve had poflTciTed the ability, to have purfued the track of the philo- 1788. fopherand the naturalift. We had other objefts before us ; and all the strTiMBin. knowledge we have obtained was, as it were, accidentally acquired in the < purfuit of them. Of the country we had no reafon to complain, and we left Nootka Sound with no fmall fliare of efteem for the inhabi- tants of it. CHAP. u )i A i< ( »7« 1788 Sf.'riMSia* ■^rOYAGES TO THE m;M ll i CHAP. XXV. 77.V Fblicb froceeJs on htr Visage.— Alarmed at the Appearance of a Leak. — Obliged to lighten the Ship, — Arrive off Owhyhee, one of the Sandwich JJlands. — Heave to in 'toe-yahyah Bay. — Receive great ^aniities ofProvi' Jions. — T'heprefent State of that IJland. — Prefentin the Name of Tianna /• the Chief of it.— The Felice leaves Owhyhee.— Improvement in falling Provifions.—Pafs the IJlands of Mowee^ Ranai^ Morotoi and JVoahoo.—' Arrive off Atooi ; the political State of that IJland. — Proceed to Oneeheow. Friendly Reception at that Place. — Large ^antily of Tarns procured.— Leave a Letter with a confdential Native of this IJland^ for Captain Douglas. — Proceed on the Foyage. — Make the IJland of Botol Tobago Xima. — Round the Rocks of Ftlle Rete. — Make the Coajl of China. '-'Anchor in the Roads of Macao. Wf E now return to the progrefs of our voyage. — During the night after we left King George's Sound, it blew with great violence, accompanied by a very heavy, mountainous fea,— the ftiip labouring in a unufual manner ; when at four in tlie morning of the 25th, we were alarmed with an account that there was four feet water in the hold ; and by eight o'clock the water had not only gained on us, but was got above the ground tier of casks, which made me at firft apprehend that the (hip, from her excefllve tumbling and rolling, had fprung a dan- gerous leak. The pumps had been kept conftantly at work, but after fome \\ 'I; I NORTH WEST COAST OI A M F. R I C A. fomc time, they became Co choakcd with the fmall baljaft, as to he no longer in a bpndition to deliver their water. Wliilo the carpenters were repairing them, the crew were employed in baling the water from all the hatch-ways. Wc continued, however, to piirfuc our courfc under clofe-recfed top-fails and fore-fail, to the Southward, wi|HU^thc wi^th :, ana tjj wind from the North Weft, which now blew a violent gale, ana tue fhip moved heavily and flowly through the fea, from the great quan- tity of water in her hull. 273 1788. SerTrMitft. Ai Our alarms were very much encreafed, when we found that at ten o^clock the water continued to baffle all our endeavours. In this fitu- ation, orders were given to bring the (hip to, which was accordingly done under the clofc-rccfcJ main top-fail on the larboard tacks. I was confident as to tlie ftate and ftrengtli oftheveflcl, and therefore gave orders for all the fpars and booms on the lee- fide of the deck to be launched overboard without delay, which was no very eafy bufinefs, from their fize and the rolling and tumbling of the fliip : however, with theaffiftance of hatchets and axes, this fide of the deck was effeilually cleared ; when the fliip was wore immediately and put on the other tack, and tlie fame operation was performed on the otiier fide, which Lifted till three o'clock, when the fpars were all launched overboard, and we almoft inftantaneoufly felt a good efFed, by the diminution of the water from baling, as the pumps could not be immediately repaired. We now difcovered the caufe of our part danger to have arifen from the great weight of timber lodged on the deck, which, witii the heaw rolling fea, had opened her fcams, and given paflage to fo large a quan- tity of water. After this operation, however, (he became light and buoyant, and we purfued our courfe with renewed fpirits and con- fidence. . Mm Thu^ V \ I > Ifi ill 11. •I' it-, r '.■*■•,. f V ■ •^4 V O Y A G F. S T O T M E 1788. Thus we continued, without the intervention of any occurrcnco ocroBK». ^vorth relatinc:, till the i«th of 0£>ober, which brought us into fine V ofl'.clil.i)! j o ^ o nnd lercne weather ; when being in the latitude of the Eafl-cnd of the in.md of Owhyhee, we bore up Weft, to ftrikc the ifland on tl>c parallel. Oufi-^ngitude, by account, was at this time 205'' 65' Eaft of Green- wich; whereas by obfervation of the fun and moon, it was 209° 20'. There being fuch a material difference, I preferred the lunar obfcr- vation. ii.uiMiyic On the i6th, by frefli dlftanccsof the fun and moon, and moon and" f^ars, vve were in the longitude of 207° 4+' Eaft, and at noon the ob- fervcd latitude was 20° 11' Nortli ; our diftance being about thirty leagues from the illand of Owhyhee. TiUiy 17 At five o'clock on the morning of the 17th, to our iniinite fatisfac- tion we difcovered land, bearing from Eaft South Eaft, to Weft North Weft, at the diftance of fix leagues: but it was (o very hazy, that the ifland was imperfectly difccrn^cl : in clear weather, the high land of Owhyhee can be ften at the diftance of twenty leagues. We had, indeed, good reafcMi to rejoice at the fight of this ifland, as wc were greatly reduced in the article of provifions. Wc had given fo large a portion of our ftorcs to the Iphigenia, and our pafliige to the illands not being fo quick as we had cxpeifted, the idea of that plenty, and thofe comforts which, as it were, waited our arrival there, filled every heart witli joy and gladnefs. As we approached the ifland of Owhyhee, a perfon who had never vifited this part of the globe, would have fccn nothing by which he could be led to fuppofe that it was the feat of luxurious abundance.— The O NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 575 The liigh, mountainous appearance of the l.uul, atul tlic blacknefs caft 1788. over it from the fog and vapour, threw I'lich a ghiom on th" wliolo *^'^t'""'»- Iccnc, as to at^brd noexpedatiun uf hof^Htality from the inhabitants, or rcfrclhmcnt from cultivation. It was too late in the evening to clofc in witli the hiiul ; wc tncreforc hove to for the night, at about the diftancc of four leagues from the (hore, and waited with extreme 'mpatiencc for the morning. On the 1 8th, at d.iy-brcak, wc bore up, and proceeded under a gentle Stiirvir is fail to clofc in witl> the land, which we accomplilhcd about nine o'clock; when the late barren and unfriendly profpevH: was fucceedcd by a fcenc that might fuit the fablings of poetry and romantic fi»£lion. The hazinefs of the morning did not obfcure the varied landfcape before us. The great mountain, or Mouna Kaah, which is fituatcd on the Nortli Eafl part of tjje ifland, was cloathcd in clouds, which feemed, as it were, to be rolling down its declivity ; while its fummit towered above the vapours, and prcfcnted a fiiblimc objcdl of nature :— from its bafe to the fca was a beautiful amphitheatre of villages and plantations, wliile the fhore was crouded with people, who, from the coolncfs of the morning, were cloatlicd in tiicir party-coloured garments. Some of them were featcd on the banks to look at the fliip, while others were running along the fliore towards the little f,\iidy patches where tlicir canoes arc drawn up, in order to come off" to us. \\\ now hove to in the en- trance of Toe-yah-yah Bay, which is fituatcd on the Weftcrn fide of the ifland, and confequently defended from the violence of the trade- winds : nor was it long before a confiderablc number of canoes came off to the fliip, with hogs, young pigs, taro-root, plantains, uigar-cane, and a few fowls. 4 \j\t 14 /I .h Xn ■,iS. Mm 2 It 1 '!>'■ M m'^ 276 1788. OCTOBEH. V O Y A G E S T O T H E It was my intention to draw the fupplies of pork from this iflaiid, and then proceed to Oneeheow, to procure a fufficient quantity of yams for the remainder of our voyage. In confequence of this determination, a very brifk trade was carried on with the natives, and before night upwards of four hundred hogs were purchafcd. The decks were loaded, and the boats filled wit!i them and the vegetables, which alfo made a part of our prefent traffic. Indeed, fuch was the profufion of thele ar- ticles which were brought to us, that many of the canoes returned without being able to dlfpofe of their cargoes. Amonfr the multitude which vlfitcd us on this occafion, I obferved but one perfon of rank : ho came in a double canoe paddled along by twelve men, and accompanied by his wife and two young female chil- dren. He brouglit very large hogs, and a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, which he ordered on board the fhip, and immediately followed his prefent, accompanying it with the moft: friendly expreflions and of- fers of further Icrvice. — Wo were not dilatory in making him a fuita- ble return ; and having thus won his confidence, I enquired of him con- cerning the prefent ftate of the ifland, with a view to the advantage of Tianna. He very readily informed me that old Tereeobeo had been poifoned, and that his fucccflbr was Tianna's uncle. He alfo added, that in confequence of this revolution, a very fierce war had taken place be- tween the inhabitants of Ovvhyhee and thofe of the ifland of Mowec, o,f which Titeeree was the reignins: foverei go- In anfwcr to his informacion, I thought proper to inform him that Tianna would (hortly return to Atooi in fuch a (hip as mine, and that I had a prefent from him to the fovereign of Owhyhee, which I defired the chief would take upon himfelf to deliver, as a mark of Tianna's attachment to his uncle. By fuch well-timed a«5t of regard, I hoped to t<. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. to perform a good office for my friend; and I have fiiicc underftood that it produced cffedls equal to my mod: fanguhie wifhes. But in order to give certainty to my commirtion, I made my requcft and delivered the prefent before a great number of the natives, which was alfo publicly tabooed: this arrangement was made in order to prevent the chief from keeping the prefent himfelf, or fubftltuting another of inferior value. By funfet we had purchafed a fufficicncy of frefli provilions to laft us to China ; we therefore prepared to make fail, in order to proceed to Atooi andOneeheow: biit the number of the natives, and the women in par- ticular, were fo great, not only covering the decks, where there was any room, but even clinging to the rigging, that we were under the neceflity of bribing them with prefents of fome kind or other to pro- cure their departure. Some of the women took to their canoes, but the greater part plunged into the fea, and fwam to the Ihore. — The (hip was no fooner cleared of its vifitors, than it began to blow very fre(h, when the top-fails were reefed, and we flood under an eafy fail for the ifland of Mowec. Wc now immediately fet to work in killing the hogs, and falting down the meat for fea-ftore. We followed the mode prefcribed by Cap- tain Cook, who would deferve the gratitude of his country, of every maritime people, and of humanity at large, if his difcoveries had been confined even to thofe improvements he made in the interior govern- ment of fliips and their crews. According to his directions, we falted down feveral casks of the finell: pork in the world, which I am convinced would have kept to any length of time that it was poffiblc tor a fhip to want it. We however made fome fmall improvement, wliiclj confifted •'.-.' in 477 1788. OcroviR, i. '■J. \ i *l^ i4 li^ 4 " C' 278 1788. OCTODEft. "'• VOYAGES TO THE — in preferving the pork of a middle fize, with the bones in it ; but with the larger hogs we did not find an equal degree of luccefs. For this purpofe the bone muft be in a great meafure, but not entirely, feparated from the meat, fo as to permit the fait to penetrate well to thofe parts of the flefli which remain attached to the bone. We alfo found that fait alone, placed in layers, anfwered better than pickle ; and we remarked that not only the heat of the fun was unfiwourable to this operation, but that the moon pofleflcs alfo a putrefying influence. TluufUs) 23 Light winds prevented our reaching Atooi until the 23d at noon, when we anchored in Wymoa-bay. As we pafled by the other iflands, canoes continually came off to us with young pigs and fugar-canes, which gave us an opportunity of completing our ftock of the latter. It was indeed fortunate that we had laid in our ftores of frefli provifions at Owhyhee ; as, on pafling by Mowce, Ranai, Morotoi, and Woahoo, not one large hog was brought off" to us : — In all probability there was not fufficient time for that purpofe as the (hip was pafling. — At Woahoo, indeed, wc undeiftood that the hogs, for fome reafon or other, of which we were not informed, were at that time under the taboo, — a kind of religious ih- ^crdi(5lion. , ■ / We had no fooner caft anchor In Wymoa-bay than it began to blow fo very ftrong as to prevent any canoes from coming off" to the fliip. — Indeed I had no other motive for flopping here but to inform Taheo, the fovcreign of it, tliat his brother Tianna would fliortly return, and to make him fuch prefents, and take fucii meafures as might be of fervice to the chief, on his arrival at his native country, which had been for fome time in a ftate of diftraftion, from the tyranny of its prefent government , , , During .y,\\ '■ VI NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. During the whole of this day not a canoe appeared ; but in the morn- ing of the 24th, though it continued to blow very frefli, a canoe came off with two men and a girl : they brouglit a fmall pig and fome cocoa- nuts ; nor was I a little furprlzed when the two meli, on entering the fhip, began to embrace my knees, and to cry out Noota, Noota; the name, as I have already obferved, by which I was known in thefc iflands, as well as on the American coaft. Tliey then burft into tears, and enquired after Tianna. 279 1788. October. Friday 14 From thefe people 1 learned that Taheo, growing infirm, fuffered himfelfto be entirely governed by Abinui, who has been already men- tioned in the memoir of our firft voyage, and was the deadly foe of Tian- na. Namaate-haw, another brother of Tianna's, and who was cfteemed, after him, the braveft warrior of the Sandwich Iflands, had fled with his brother's wife and children to a diftant part of the ifland, to efcape from the cruel power of Taheo ; and that fome part of their force was at this time in arms. It was, therefore, a very natural meafure for Taheo to forbid all communication between his fubjefts and us, as he believed that we had brought back Tianna again ; and an inhuman profcription had been publiflied, threatening him with iiiftant death, if he fliould land on that ifland. But notwithftanding the taho, thefe faithful people had ventured to come off to us, in order to inform Tianna, whom they fuppofed to be on board our fiiip, of his danger. — Befides the artlefs rnanner in which tlicfe men told their ftory, other circum- ftaiices concurred to convince us of the truth of it. No canoes vifited us, and we heard the conchs rcfoundiug from the diftant hills,— a ccr- tain prelude of war. Situated as we were, and without any other commutiication with the ifland but that whicli the zeal of thefe two men had led them to rlfquc • u s It zSo 1788. Oliober. VOYAGES TO THE rifquc from a principle of afFeftion, we could only, by their means, inform Tianna's wife and brother of the approaching arrival of that chief, who would fliortly return in a fituation to fupport them and himfclf againft tlie unnatural proceedings of their tyrannic brother, and his inhuman minifler. This confolatory and encouraging intelli- gencc they undertook to deliver, with certain prefcnts, to Namaatc-haw, and the wife of Tianna ; and having received fuch as were provided for themlelves, they took an hafty leave, and paddled fwiftly to the fliore. Till the 25th at noon, we remained in expedation of receiving feme intelligence from the ifland ; when not feeing a fingle canoe in motion, we weighed, and proceeded to Oneeheow, where wc anchored about fix o'clock in tlie evening, nearly in the fame pofition which we had oc- cupied in the preceding year. On arriving off this ifland we did not experience the operations of any prohibition againft us ; on the contrary, we were furrounded by a crowd of natives, among whom were many of our old friends, whom we perfeftly recollcdcd, fo that the fliip was very (hortly filled with vifitors of all ages and both fexes. But among feveral who exprefled their joy to fee us, and who retained the remembrance of our kindnefs to them, was that affedionatc ifl.mdcr to whom fome of our officers had formerly given the well-known, and I may add, honourable appellation of Friday ; and if any of the companions of my former voyage (hould perufe this page, they, I am fure, will recolleft with fomcwliat of a grateful remembrance, the friendly and faithful fervices of honeft Friday. Thofc fervices he now repeated ; indeed, on the firft fight of tlie (hip, he fwam off to make an offer of them, and they proved of the utmoft importance to us. Wc ^-^mni] \s .* ,*„*jK:r NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, aSl Wc bad at this time neither bread or flour on board, and depended J7^^' on procuring a quantity of yatr.s fufficient to fupply our wants durmg the remainder of the voyage. But as this was not the fcafon for them, and they were too young to be dug up, we fhould have found it a matter of great difficulty to have obtained a fufficient quantity, if our friend Friday had not undertaken the important negotiation. We, therefore, provided him with fuch articles as were the moft likely to forward our purpofes ; and, by his influence and pcrfevcrance, affifted with the bribes in his poflcflion, he perfuaded many of his friends to dig up the largeft yams they could find, and bring them to market ; fo tliat we at length obtained feveral tons of thefe moft neceflary provifions by the morning of the 27^1 ; and at noon we prepared to put to fca. Monday 27 I am really at a lofs how to defcribe the very marked concern, both in words and looks, that the inhabitants of this ifland exprcfled, when they were informed of our approaching departure. Friday, however, remained to the laft, and with him I entrufteda letter to Captain Doug- las, with the ftridleft injun£lion to deliver it into his own hands, when- ever he fliould arrive; which commilfion he readily undertook, and faithfully performed, as will appear in that part of the Iphigcnia'j voy- age which relates to the Sandwich Iflands. The fubjcifl of this letter was to inform Captain Douglas of the political ftate of Atooj, and to recommend fuch arrangements refpei'llng Tianna, as might tend to rc- inftate him in his rights, or place him where he might be fecure from the menaced injuries of his unnatural brotiicr. Nor was Friday forgotten, whofe fidelity and attachment were already known to Captain Douglas, . who was an officer on board my fl->ip during our firft voynge. I now prefented that good fellow with fuch articles as I well knew would afford him the fatisfaclion he deferved ; when, after fecuringthem in his mam, which is a cloth that thefe people wear round their middle, he plunged N n into ' s8a V O YAG ES TO THE 1788. into the Tea; and as he fwam towards the (hore, from time to time October. jur,jej hjj jje^d towards us, and waved one hand, while he bufFetted the billows with the other. If' The wind blew frefli from the Eaft North Eaft, when we weighed anchor, and very foon loft fight of the ifland of Oneeheow. We now purfued our voyage ; and nothing occurred Aifficiently inte- NoVEMBtR. r JO O J sundiy 16 rcfting to merit a relation, until the i6th of November, when by feveral obfcrvations of the fun and moon, and the moon and ftars, our longitude was 146° 54' Eaft of Greenwich, and the obfcrved latitude 21° 4' North. — At this time we feldom ran lefs than fifty leagues a day, with very moderate and pleafant weather. I. ','' Our cliii'f occupation, independent of the neccffary attention to the courfe of the (hip, was to dry and air the skins ; a certain number being every day got up, fpread in the fun, and then re-packed in the casks. In performing this bufinefs, we had the fatisfadtion to find that very few of thefe furs were damaged ; which fortunate circumftance we attributed to our great care in feeing them packed in dry casks, and keeping them Ic- curc from all damp. WwdiicfJa.Mj On the 19th of November, we, for the firft time, experienced fome alteration in the wind. It blew ftrong from the Weft ; though it did not remain long in that quarter, but veered all round the compafs ; when it at length fettled in the Weftern quarter, and blew fo very hard, that we were obliged to lay to. This gale fplit our main top-fail, and did TiiurfJay 20 not fubfide till the following day, when it veered again to the Eaft, and we purfued our courfe. h ti If \\ I NORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA. 283 It now became a matter of very iieccffary attention to make prepara- 1-88. tion for thofe tempeftuous feas which we were about to enter. The old Nuvember. fails were accordingly unbent, and a new fuit brought to the yards ; for it is well known to tWofe who are acquainted with the navigation of the China feas, that a paflage to Canton often depends on the goodncfs of a top-fail or a courfe. The change of the Monfoons, indeed, was over ; yet even after that dangerous period, very violent gales of wind prevail inthefefeas; nor does the North Eaft monfoon, which had now taken its turn, acquire that fteadincfs which precludes all danger, till the month of December. The wind did not fix fteadily in the Eaftern quarter till the 2 1 ft, which Friday n alteration I attributed to our near vicinity to the Ladrone lllands, which • are known, at times, to alter the current of the trade-winds. We continued our courfe, without any material occurrence, till the ift of December ; when in the evening of that day, we made the iflands of Botol Tobago Xima. The weather was very dark, hazy and un- pleafant; nor could we get more than a glimpfc, as it were, of thefe iflands, which however proved fufficient for us to afcertain them. By cur lunar obfervations, brought forward, we were fix leagues to the Eaft when we made them. DlCEMBBR. Monday i The neceflity of making thefe iflands has been mentioned in that " part of the voyage which treats of the various routes into the China Seas from the Pacific Ocean. The fight of them which we had ob- tained was, however, fufficient to juftify our running during the night ; and as there is no other but the iflet, named Little Botol, to the Eaftward of them, we were fatisfied as to its identity ; and accordingly bore up to clear the dangerous rocks of Ville Rete, which we eftimated to bear N n z South. !V| ^.1 284 V O YAG E S TO THE 1788. South Weft bv Weft, thirteen leagues from this idaiid. The clouds were uncommonly black, and the night had every appearance of bringing ftorm and tcmpeft along witli it. I ViMW .mt: About eight o'clock, our expcil.itinns were verified, as it began to blow very violent from the Nortli Eaft, with heavy rain. We, however, purfucd ourcourfe, fleering Soutli Weft, which is a point more South- erly th;ui the rocks bore off us. Indeed, I am clearly of opinion that a fliip in this fitu.ition, has no alternative but riinning ; for if flic is hove to, the violent and rapid currents might drift herfo far to the Southward, — in addition to her nntural drift, occafioncd by the wind and fea, — that her entrance into the China Seas would become very dangerous ; and, of courfc, her pafl'agc to Canton be rendered very uncertain. For though it may be by no means a defirable circumftance to -run in a dark and tcmpcfliioiis i'i;.'Jit through this narrow channel, yet I do not hefitate toadvife it in the iliongeft manner, if the iflands of Botol Tobago Xima have been fcen at any time during the preceding evening. The ftorm continued, with unabating violence, till twelve o'clock ; during which time, we purfucd our courle to the South Weft, under clofe reefed top fails and fore fail, and hauled our wind to the Weft North Weft, with as mueh wind as the fliip could well bear her courfes, having as we fuppofed, entered tjie China Seas. At one o'clock it blew with fuch encreafmg violence, that we could very ill carry the fail we had aboard; but let the conlequences have been what they might, it was indifpenfably necefliiry to proceed in this manner, in order to ftcure our paffage to Canton, the wind hanging as it did fo far to the Northward. At midnight our latitude, by eftimation, was 21° 30' North, which was as near as we .juld, with any degree of prudence, round the dan- gerous \\ lis 1788. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMFRICA. gcrous rock of Ville Rctc : .ind, at one o'clock, when \vc liaulcd up, wc experienced fiich an heavy fca, tliat it bccanit; impoinblc for us to (leer an higher courfe to tlic Northward iluui VVcft by North, though the wind was at North Nortli Eaft : at Icaft wc could not take any other courfe which would not have prevented the (hip from going througli the fea. Befidcs, as we had rcafon to fear an oppotlni', current, we were not without apprehcnfions as to our paflage to Canton. On tlic 2d of December, at ilay break, tlicre was no appearance of TucfJiy » land. — We had, therefore, every reafon to believe that we were conii- derably advanced in the China Sea ; but our apprehenfions of being driven to the leeward of Canton did not entirely fubfide till the 3d, when the WcJnoW.iy j weather moderated, and the wind vcercd to tlic North Eaft. At noon, our latitude was 22° 7' North, wluLh cvid.^ntly proved that we had not experienced any unfavourable current. We now hauled up North Well: by Well:, in order to m.ikc the coall: of China. .■ 't- On the 4th, tlie long expevfted land of China appeared, and wc beheld Thurfday4 a fight of the moft plcafing novelty to us, which was compofed of innu- merable fifliing-lioats difperfcd over tlie fea. We palled by many of them ; but they are fo well acquainted with European fhipping of tlie largefl: fize, that they did not (ufFer their attention to be in any degree interrupted by fo fmall a veflel as the Felice. As the China coail is already fo well known, I Ihall not delay the con- dufion of my voyage by any obfervation, but proceed to relate that we purfucd our courfe during the 4th ; when, in the evening, the Lcma Iflcs were dilcovercd at about the diftancc of four leagues. As 1 v,'.;s already acquainted with this navigation, we continued our courfe during the night between thofe ifles, which is, beyond all coiKpaiiibn, tlie bed — fr~ — ~[ — '-9~- t f I 1788. DrCCMBER. Kridiiy j VOYAGES TO THE paflage ; and In the evening of the following day, we happily anchored in the roads of Macao, the town bearing North North Weft, at the diftance of three leagues ; when an exprefs was immediately forwarded to Canton, to inform our friends of the fafc arrival of the Felice. And here I mud take leave of the reader, whofekind attention has fol« lowed me through this long and various voyage ; and of which, indeed, as the two Hiips were obliged to feparate at Samboingan, I may be faid only to have performed a part. — The fliare which Captain Douglas had in it will be related in the following chapters. VOYAGE m — ^^ I • ■♦( «r " » '•» wi» b«i»Hnp; North N-r . ! n>imtli:Kcl" ibriwHiUlflif^' to Cinton, to iuioftu tftif fr'f ;v ihr's uirivai oi the P«!kc. iil And here I itiuft take >:i the rwi> fhlp^ tei g«|»«tfr V'md att'unon hi$ fof-' i ij|;.in, 1 may Uc ftid iHMs^u tu titii tciiovriiig cha'jiter?. * i\ I "■■^ i; «i ?. •: «': '.'- 'T'Gir I It ^ 1 m 1 1 )' ''v i i .«. ;sj^ »i. t .'. I 1 1 N J. iS' / J \ V? #?^ •fc.^ i7V"'ifr; r i. f t "'\-. ' i Dniwn fn lA, .fj,^. t, 7" SJiirn, /.'/y ' »■*' ;■ ^i'^ >' ii ;, m 'I .U< Ivf i I ■■i ■// .'/'./ **. 7' S /Urr> / /y ■ ^ ( V //.■•//'/'///• /^ . // /■/,A/,..*,/ ,ij Ihr .ti-f ,/ir,rt.r *' ■' *.i*.< "■> /l".V-//. /.„ o* ./ *;//. y^/,./ :'/»> ' V Mt \ : ''». * iJ 1 'T p m r 'Ik J m m i «i V NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. %Zj VOYAGE O F T H E IPHIGENU, CAP^- DOUGLAS, FROM SAMBOINGAN, TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AxMERICA. CHAP. XXVI. ^he Felice departs from Sambo tngan. — T'he fubfequent ConduSi of the Ga» •vernor to Captain Douglas. — Part of the Crew csnfned, and the Ship de- tained by his Orders. — His unwarrantable ConduB.-^'J'hc Iphigenia fails from Samboingan. — /Arrives off" a fmall IJland, now named Johnjlone's IJland, — Communication with the Natives, and a Defcription of them,^ Tawnee^.a Sandwich IJlander, on board the IPHioKtfi \, falls fck and dies. Sicknefs of the Crew. — Pifs through the Pelew IJliwds.— Communication ivith the Natives. — j^n affedting CircumJlancCy unknown to Captain Douglas. T N the narrative of the former voyage it has been related, that on the ■■■ 1 2th of February the Felice left the Iphigenia at Samboingan, pre- paring to take on board her forc-maft, and then to proceed on her voy- age. — The caufcs which occafioned the feparation of the two fhips have already been mentioned ; and the orders delivered to Captain Douglas on the occafion, are inferted in the Appendix. The following pages, therefore, contain the voyage of the Iphigenia after (he .was left by her confort, 1788. ■"FBKI Alt V. Tuefday 1 1 288 V O YAG E S TO THE 1788. confort; which, we have rcafon to thuik, will be found to contain fome ' important information relative to the geography and commerce of the North Weft Coaft of America. h^ M' I- 1 ^ ■J., m^ iil The Felice was no fooner failed from Snmboingan, than the governor of the place afl'umcd a very improper and ungenerous mode of condutfl towards the (hip that remained. The dlvifion of our force had encouraged him, as we fuppofe, to fome unwarrantable proceedings, which (hortly ended in a rupture on both fides, to the great injury of the proprietors. The Iphigenia had received her mart on board and was ready for fea TuerJayi9 OH the ipth. She had alfo obtained feveral bags of rice, a quantity of vegetables, and fome cattle from the governor. As we had been informed that the moft acceptable prcfent we could make to the governor in return for his civilities and attentions to us, would be a few bars of iron, I accordingly left fix bars with Captain Douglas, defiring him to add as many more, to compofe the intended compliment, and to draw bills on Canton for the amount of any cxpcnces which might have»bcen requlfite for the (hip and her crew. Captain Douglas accordingly waited on the governor, and invited him to dine on board the Iphigenia, previous to her departure. The invitation was accepted, and the entertainment pafled off, to all appear- ance, with the moft perfcd fatisfadion to all parties. In the evening the company adjourned, by the governor's invitation, to a b:ill on fliore. But under the guife of politenefs and hofpitality, the fubtle Spaniard was watching to take any advantage in his power ; and on difcovcring that the principal part of the cargo confifted of iron, hre turned his thoughts to the acquiiuion of that valuable metal ; — valuable indeed it might D NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 289 might be callal, for it purchafcs gold at Magiiidanao. — The King of 17SS. Spain has prohibited t!iis article from being fold througliout the I'lu- '"''•'■ ^"^• lippiiics by any pcrfoii whatever, except his ov.ii coniinidloiicri, v,!io take care to make it a matter of very coflly purchafe : the governor was, therefore, determined to feizc the prefent fiivourable opportunity of pro- curing it on the very advantageous terms he conceived to be in his power. So that when an officer was lent on (hore the following day to fettle tiie WeJiiefaays. account, — wliich did not, we believe, amount to more tlian two hundred and fifty dollars, — the governor at once threw off the malk, and not only declared tliat the whole of his demand fliould be paid in iron, but that he would fix the price, and arrange t!ie weights according to liis own plcafure. Such was the anfwer whicli the oflicer was going to take back, when he and his boat's crew were arrcftcd by a file of fokliers, and conveyed to a dungeon. The continuing delay of this officer's return, induced Captain Douglas to fend another boat on (horo to learn the caufeof his detention ; when the fecond party fhared the fate of the firft. At the fame time the governor fent off a large proa, with fifty men, to take p..'fllinon of the fliip ; and had not Captain Douglas been alarmed for the confequcnces to his people on (hore, as well as to fome of them who were placed in a confpicuous part of the boat, he would cer- tainly have funk her; which might have been done without much difficulty. He, however, thought it befl to let this armed force approach without any interruption, and to fufFer the Spanifh fokliers to come quietly on board and take polTeflion of the fliip. In confequence of thefe very extraordinary proceedings. Captain Doug- las went on (hore himfelf, to enquire into the caufe of tlicm : when the governor informed him that his fole objeft was to fecure tlie payment O o of 4 ♦» m « 290 VOYAGES TO THE 178S. of his 1)111 in iron; ami tint the fliip fliould not be fuffcred to depart VtsRiMn. ^.|| ^j^^ j^^^i^ ^^..^^ huukd. It was in vain to rcprefeiit that he had hhiifelf riigig' d, on their firft arrival, to take bills for whatever they might wi(h to purchafe. It was fruitlefs to urge the cruelty and injiiftice of invading th"; cargo of a veflcl which had come in an afl'urcd confidence to his port, and liy which the principal advantages of her voyage miglit be loft :— He was too determined in his bafcnefs to liften to thefe fuggeftions ; and Captain Douglas was obliged to return on board, and order feventy-eight bars of iron on fliore, which was nearly half his cargo, together with one hundred and twenty dollars, which he colle£lcd in the (hip. But the bufini-fs was not yet finiflied ; — for the governor was very peremptory in his afl'urances that he would be abfolutely paid in nothing but iron. — To fuch an exaggerated impotirlon Captain Douglas refufed to fubmit ; and threatened, in tlie moft ferious manner, if the governor pcrfifted in his uiiwarrantable dcfigns, that he would throw the fhip on his hands. This rcfolution brought the Spaniard to reafon, who confcnted at lengtli to receive the iron and the dollars, and gave orders to withdraw the fol- diers from the Ihip : he neverthek-fs contrived to retard their departure till Captain Douglas had font him fome wine, which he had previoufly promifed him ; and it was not "before he had received this trifling pre- fent that he rcleafed the people from their confinement. Such was the condu£l of the governor of Samboingan : but, indeed, no other treatment was to be expetfled ; as it is well known by every com- mercial nation, that the fubjctSls of his Catholic Majefty, difperfed through iii* «.i'm.'.i> >•> On the 29th, tlicy liad light airs and cahns, with frequent fqualls of ?iii,.!..y 30 rain.; nn the 30th there was a modjratc breeze from the Xortliward and Eaihvanl, acconipaiiitd alfo witli fqualls and rain, which continued to jovvail tliidugh fcveral fuccccding days. ,%r,..uv.;ji On tlic 31(1-, th; wliul varied from Nortlj Eall to Eaft Noilli Eart ; and fometiiucs Nortli North Eaft ; — and, as tlicy were approaching a groupc ofiflandi, called the Carolines, Captain Douglas gave orders to b.ii.l the bed: bower and ftrcam cables, and to keep a very ftrld look- out, ai tliere would be great danger in fqually, thick weather, and at the change of tlu moon, among a heap of low iilaiuls which had never been accurately furvcycd. It was thought necefl'ary thcrctore to run cvcrv riik to get to the Northward, in order to obtain vari.il)lo winds, au.l to g< t a.; foon as poiriblc from a vertical fun, and into more tempe- rate v.eatl:cr. WetinciJ.iy j ^" ^hc 2d of April, a frefti breeze fprung tip from the Northward and Eadward, with fqualls and heavy rain ; but about ten o'clock in the morning the clouds difpcrled, and from the medium of feveral very good diftances of the fun and moon, the longitude was 13+° 36' Eaft of Circcnwich, and tlic obfervcd latitude 7° 2^' North. Tiiiufday 3 On the 3d, they had a fine breeze, with clear weather: at iialf pafl: four in the afternoon faw land ; and at fun-fet its extremities bore from Well: South Weft to Weft by North, diftant about {even or eight leagues. As the Iphigcnia began to be in want of wood, and in the hope of %%M NORTH Wr, ST COAST 01' AMERICA. of olUiiiiiiiig roots, of fomc kiml or other, as well as cocna-mits, Captniu Doiifjas determined to take tliis opportunity of rupplylnjr the fliip. Ac- cordiiijMy, at eight in tho cvcninj";, orders were given to (hortcn Tail, and heave the main-topfail to the malt. Atd.u'-hrc;ik on the 4th, two low Iflands were fecii, covered with trees, bcnrinp; Nortli Weft by Weft, at the diftancj of liven or eight league:. The land obferved the preceding evening, now bore Weft South Weft, at the diftanee of ten or twelve leagues. As the l.ittcr appeared to bj high land, and of confiJer.ible extent, it was confidered as the moft likely to alTord fomc pl.-.ce of (belter and fecurity ; but on a nearer apj)r(Kich, it was dilcoveri-d to ciinlift of a cliUKr of illinds ; thev therefore hauled their wind and ftood for the two low iflands. 295 17S8. Friday 4 At liven in tlic evening feveral canoes were fecn coming from them towards the (hip. — When they came alongllde, they were prefented with a fmall hatchet and two or three knives, which they took, and gave in return their whole cargoes, which confifted of nothing but two or three pieces of taroand a few cocoa-nuts.— In addrtfhng tlumfelvesto the peo- ple in the fliip, they appeared to repeat the words Eng/i/Jj and Moon'," which were naturally fuppo(ed to allude to myfelf, as it was then ima- gined that I had paflcd through tlielc iftands, and in my paflage had obtained Ibmc communication with the natives. it' '' f As there was no poflibility of approaching the South Eaft fide of cither of thefc iflands, they ftood to the Northward, in order to get round a reef of rocks, and to examine the North Weft fidcof the laigeft of thefe iflands; but on advancing towards it, reef appeared within reef, and from • Or probably Mora mty, wliich figniiics in the Ptlcw languare, Ccme to me. # S96 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. from tlic maft-hcad, a range of rocks were fecn, extending to the NoitTi- ^^'■'"'* ward and Wcdvvard as far as the eye could reach. — Tiic rock they were cndcavouiing to weather, was now about a league under their Ice ; tluy therefore hauled their wind to the North. Several cances ftill followed the fliiji clofc, and, for a few nails, which were lowered over the ftern in ,1 b.ilket, a return was made of an iuconfi- rlcrable number of cocoa-nuts. — The people in oneof the canoL-s were in- deed dlfpofed to play tlie rogue, and when they had got polfeihon of the nails, rehifcd to make any fat is fact ion. ^'aptain Douglas therefoie fired a muflcet over their heads, when every one ot them leaped inftantly over- b-;ard, and remained under th.- lee of their canoe ; while thofe in the other canoes, as if they felt themfelves protected by their innocence, did not difcover any llgns whatever of terror or apprcI;cnf;on. il I ^'. *: hi One of tliefe boats continued to follow the IphlgcnI.i for a long time, and one of the people cried out, from time to time, Ecdoo, Eeboo, and excrt.d himfelf to the iitmoft In making figns for them to go back. — Indeed, when he perceived that all his endeavours were vain to perfuade them to return, his actions bore the appearance of a man in the moft fran- tic diftrefs. — After fome time they obierved another canoe, containing at leafl: twenty men, paddling towards them. At firrt they imagined that there were fome Europeans on board, and accordingly hove to; but when it was difcovered that there were none but Indians, they immcdi- atelv made fail, as the (hip was drifting faft towards the rocks under her lee :— the canoe however overtook them, and the people in her difcovered the liime eager anxiety with the other natives for the return of the fliip ; but as Ihe was at this time in a dangerous fituation, very little attention was paid to the crying and continued entreaties of the iflanders. Captain NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Captain Douglas was now among the Pclcw Iflaiuls; a partlculav ■knowledge and admirable dcfcription of which, we owe to the fenfibility and talents of Mr. Keate rThe account of tlum written by that gentle- man, from the information of Captain Wilfon, and other pcrfons be- longing to the Antelope packet, which was wrecked on the rocks tliat furround them, has been fo generally read, that I may fpeak of tlie circumftanccs which conneft it with this page, as a matter of univerfal information. — Captain Douglas was ignorant that the Antelope had been loft here ; and that her crew on one of thefe iflands built a veflcl, in which they returned to China. He therefore could not know that his countrymen had received every aid, comfort, and kindncfs which thefe hofpitable iflandcrs could afford ; and that the fovercign of them had cntrufted his fon to the care of Captain Wilfon, to return with him to England, to be inlbufted in the arts and manners of our country. Had he been acquainted with thefe interefting occurrences, there is no doubt but his humanity would have exerted itfelf to the utmoft, in or- der to contrive fome further communication with them ; — for who can have the leaft doubt but that the canoes which followed the Iphigenia were fent to receive Lcc Boo ; or at leaft, to hear fome intelligence concerning him ; and that the native who has been defcribed as calling after the ftiip, and employing the moft frantic atflions, when he found that he called in vain, was any other than Abba Thulle, the father of the young prince, agitated by the moft poignant fenfations of difappoint- mcnt and defpair. 397 1788. AVKIl.. As no attention whatever had been then paid by the Eaft India Com- pany to Abba Thulle, for the kind and humane treaticent afforded by him to the crew of their Ihip the Antelope, he may be fuppofcd to have been fufFering, for too long a time, the alternate imprcfJions of hope and P p fear. :\ , '^i :«v>s». I t 298 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. fear. — It may therefore be conceived what his feelings were, when he ArRii.. firft faw the dirtant Ihllsof the Iphij^enia whiten in the fun. It may alfo be imagined with what hafte his canoe was launched from the beacli to bear him to the (hip, and iiow fwiftly /he was driven on to receive, as he might hope, a Ion, wlio was returned with the various knowledi^e and attainments of Europe, to aiorn and improve his own country. — But it is difficult to conceive, as it would be impoflible to de- fcribc, what fuch a mind as his muft feci, when the Iphigenia proceeded on her way, and the people on board, occupied in avoiding the furrounding dangers, were as inattentive to his diftrefs, as they were ignorant of the caufe of it. — We muft, however, be contented to lympathize with the affliction of this amiable chief, as he returned in melancholy difappoint- ment to his ifland, — and continue to accompany the Iphigenia on her def- tined courfe.. n At noon they liad a very good obfcrvation, when the latitude was 8° 20' North ; the bearings of the ditferent iflands were as follow : the largeft of the two iflands, which Captain Douglas named Moore's Ifl.md, in honour of his friend Mr. Hugh Moore, bore South by Eaft, half Eaft, diftant about five or fix leagues ; • two others, that were low and fandy, and which he named Good Look-out Iflands, bore Weft South Weft, half South, diftant three or four leagues. — From the former to the latter is a reef of rocks, wliich runs in a North Weft dire»Sion, to the diftance of eleven or twelve leagues, and extends five leagues to the North of the other two. 1 f I t Friday 4 At ouc o'cloclc iii tiic aftcmoon they founded, and found that they were in eight fathom water; as the current fet them to the Weft- ward, th'-v flood on, being appichenfive, if they went on the other tack, ^»i!t NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 299 tack, that they fliould risk the being driven down on tlie reef, which 1788. was at this time on their lee-beam ; they therefore kept the lead going ; A"""^"- and as the water was clear to the bottom, people were ordered to the maft-head to give notice of any immediate danger, which mi * iii - .— - . .*.. ...»». I 30a 1788. Mav. Saturday 3 1 June. Suiiduv I . V O Y A G E S T O T H E . On the 3 1 ft, they had light winds and cahns ; af ten o'clock in the morning the clouds difperfed, and there was clear weather for half au hour ; when an opportunity was taken to get a number of diftances of the fun and moon, from a medium of which the longitude was 190" 19' Eaft of Greenwich, and the obferved latitude 50° 58'Nortli. The early part of the following day was clear and moderate; but the latter was cloudy, with frcfli breezes. The crew were now bufily employed in airing and mending tlie fiiils. The latitude was 51" 49' North, and the longitude 193° 32' Eail of Greenwich. M mtjay i Tiicidjy 3 A fteady breeze from the VVeftward, continued with hazy weather through the whole of the 2d ; and on the 3d they altered the courfc from North Eaft to North Eaft by North. The arms were now cleaned, and the arm-chcft got off the deck into the cabin, to get them out of the way both of the feamen and the favages ; for as they were approaching the land, there was good rcafon to expc£l a vifit from the latter. I;'i'« Wff' Wi 'I Mm :| i' 'i,'' Thuifday 5 On the 5th, at day-light. Trinity Ifland was ftcn bearing North North Weft, diftant feven or eight leagues. At nine it bore South half Eaft, fix or feven leagues ; and at noon the breeze which had blown all the morning to the North Eaft, encreafcd to an hard gale ; when the latitude, from an indifferent obfervation, was 56° 29' North, aiid the longitude 204° 54' Eaft. Fiiiay 6 At Hoon it blcw hard, and the gale encreafed, fo that they were obliged to hand the fore-fail and clofe reef the main top-fail: at eight in the evening, the extremity of the land from Cape Trinity, bore Eiaft North Eaft, to North Weft by Weft, being diftant from the neareft land ><*. I'f 1:; Nn \ \ , .JIto J«^ 3--* NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. land fix leagues. At eleven o'clock wore the fhip, and ftood to tiie Southward and Eaftward. At fix in the morning Cape Trinity bore North North Eaft, at the diftance of about twelve or thirteen leagues. The gale continued to encreafe, and at lix in the evening, the fliip wore and ftood to the Northward. No obfervation was made on this day. 3'^3 1788. JvNe. At four in the morning, it blew an hurricane, — reefed and handed Saturdays the main-fail, and laid the fliip to under a balanced try-fail, and got three balance tackles on the gaff to fupport it. At five, they faw the land, the extremities from Port Trinity bearing North North Weft, to Weft South Weft, and Two Headed Point Weft North Weft,— diftant from the body of the land twelve or fourteen leagues. At fix they wore, and lay to on the larboard tack. It now blew the moft tremendous ftorm that had ever been fccn by any pcrfon on board ; and at four in the afternoon the gale not being in the Icaft abated, they got the top- gallant mafts down on deck, laying to with the head of the fliip to the Southwaid and Eaftward. About five the gale abated, but there was a moft Hreadfui Tea ftill running. At nine they made fail, and got the top- gallant mafts and yards up. On the 8th, the wind ftill continued to sunJayS- the Northward and Eaftward, but rather variable. The land was feeu bearing North Weft, diftant five or fix leagues. The obferved latitude was 56" ao' North. Longitude 205° 36' Eaft.. On the 9th, they had fair weather, with moderate and lio-ht breezes MonJay^ from the Eaftward. The ifland which Captain Douglas took for Trinity Ifland, as it is in the fame latitude and longitude which iiad been laid down, lies off the mouth of a large bay, furrounded with low land. The hills were covered with fnow, while the low lands pofl'eflcd the fiiieft ver- dure, but not a tree was feen on the one or the other. In this bay there is.a fecurc flielter tVom the North Weft winds, which, had it been known, would : • « y S«4 1788. JUNI. T''' VOYAGES TO THE would have afforded a certain prote£tioii to the Iphigenia in the late violent gale of wind. This land forms part of the coaft between Foggy Ifland and Trinity Ifland, mentioned by Captain Cook, and has by no means the barren appearance of that land which is to the North- ward of Trinity Ifland, and the Southward of Cape Greville. As the wind continued to the Eaftward, they plied to the windward, and flood into eight fathoms of water, with a fandy bottom. I' TiiefJiyio On the loth the weather was moderate and hazy. At fix in the af- ternoon they got a fight of the liind, bearing Eaft North Eaft, at the *, diftance of about ten leagues. This land forms a cape projefting into ^ the bay, which was now named Cape Hollings. It lies in the latitude of 57" 13' North, and the longitude of 207° 3' Eaft. During the night no foundings could be obtained with feventy fathoms of line. — Wednefdnyii On the following day at noon, t!,e extremities of the land bore from Weft North Weft to Eaft by South ; the Ifland of Kodiak bearing Eaft. The obferved latitude was then 56° 56' North, and the longitude, by a lunar obfervation, 205' 36* Eaft of Greenwich. It had been rather calm through the day ; but about five o'clock in the afternoon, a breeze fprung up from the Southward and Eaftward, and drew round to the Eaft. — They worked up the coaft, and ftood in (hore to nine fathoms of water with a muddy bottom, the current being very much againft' them.— At Tliurfdayi* "0°" of the 1 2th, Trinity Ifland bore Eaft half South ; the extremities of the continent bearing from Eaft North Eaft half Eaft, to North half Weft ; the diftance of the (hip, from the neareft land, was at this time feven leagues. The obferved latitude was 56** 48' North ; and from a mean of eight diftances of the fun and moon about three quarters after twelve at noon, the longitude was 205** 5' Eaft of Greenwich. ( \ At ^ t-tU-i^^'^^^h^^.,-!, ■■i.'aT; -r»t> At ♦ ' I ,t ;*T ■'Wi' ' ' "M-'ifW***. X -*•*-«...-*' . i i l ii« rw.'%M ifa ■V3' •T7- V" ■rf^i ■fT^m-r* I tift- — 1 r^*ijrfte»> 1/ ,'//,//,r/.i ,'^,if,i)/i/ ' ////•/iiiJ. t,t„'if .■;,,.■ /■v. I \\;>if,-r.V'il:i/i,;:,,/i/(\ •' -■> ■-». « . i',v/ii7,/ r..\'''ll<.)./h::i,/i/A- ' rf . "■M^ V - Am^-^:--*sa^^^,i,,,,,.k.^ *|^« ~4»^. ^-'^'^^'^Si,,,^!^''^,^^ -IS^ ^.igLiat c>t. L^;;. -:-;"j:3M*« 'it •»«»» -'* ■ { '♦; :'il m 1,. A m] .■ Ky ' . -■(. i i. 1; t I .1 ; 'I, '-A, ( N- ;1:.^ ! V'- . iM iji liii il fc ,i i < l | l«. i i fr r, nil II II mmwt^wW— — tg'A— «»iw».»«i>««-'"*»< ' "~.;iw» mn ■»<»»»« ^rr -, i.^^^ .^. t.. ... ^ ^ ^ ^ . ^^ ^ ■'Av»/^ I' 1^ *., :'> A J r' ' i'- fir ^#|; 'in T^l IP iMit m t^ 1-4 ■ . ^«»'»fj>- ,<5S^s-'--. *^. *^^^^Bt* i^-y^ •r;,,,t-. 'I -rfti. ■t -ti'-^IMK* tT^T^-VJ o «T^' O'ta ti-k'^fcOtM* , ^'twf^*. -'vywv'a»wi^-'o^,ii«ip>.^^ti<,r. .'««H«'..M>*^(acv«#KknH-^Mh«M««v4rs^«»««MME' -!';y./^-. •.■,;/\ — -"M. -,^»i*.**-*X'*#'^. V » ,..- i 7 V u^^' -.j.MAfiafi* i r.v..M«jKii«'i<>«rT>wrwyu><>.'.ujet^'>4>.'<«u*'«i'ii!is^. ,4ft:'- -"'.'..A y^' "/ *.• r > -.^.i A %(,' •• ;?{ ,^l m>^^^ . rtt ! f • !• I •<. .ii |>***»1E\ ♦»- *.*l 1 fi « If i t*- I itft^i iW, I r0amm<^»'iit-r ■ Cp^'B(Wf'BM(%'T;^ni* ■... •.«*!•-» I'**—. Ti\mt»:'n»ncm MM '^■i ,^*„-^'»«(*- ■J- % r (7\ (:2/V/V/)^ oC OTTER Sound. Laliludr A.tf i.VXnrth. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, At feven in the evening, a fine breeze fpriing up from North Nortli Weft, as they were fteerhig through tlic paflage between Trinity Ifland and the mahi, when they had regular foundings from feventeen to feven fathoms, over a bottom of fine fand. 5 A' ./ I ^ On the North fide of the ifland towards the fea, there is a very fine bay, where fliips may run in with fafety. Copious ftreams of water were running from the mountains, and great quantities of drift wood lying along the fhore. About eight a native came off to the fhip in a fmall canoe, and taking off the head of a feai which he wore on his own, he made them an obeifance, andalked them how they did, in the Ruflian language:— when, having taken a fnrvey of the {hip, he paddled Lack to the (bore. Shortly after, another canoe with one man in it paid them a vifit ; who, in return for a few beads, with which he appeared to be infinitely deliglited, offered the fkin of a grey fox ; but not being able to make it faft to the ftiip, as (he was at this time making a deal of way through the water, he took it back with him. This man did not fpeak the language either of Cook's River or Nootka Sound. ( ■ - " Sr i ^ ■ They had in the morning of the 13th, light airs and calms, and at ten in the morning had- cleared the paflage. At noon, the ob- ferved latitude was 56° 45' North ; and longitude, from the refult of fevcral obfervations was, paft noon, 206° 6' Eafl: : the extremities of Trinity Ifland bearing from. South Eaft by Eaft to South Weft ; and tliofe of the coaft from Weft South Weft, to North North Eaft, at the dlftance of four or five leagues. The variation of the compafs was 24° 51' Eaft. At eight o'clock in tlie evening the extremities of the con- tinent bore from South Weft half South, to North North Eaft. At nine they tried the current, and found it running four fathoms an hour. 3^5 ^^ 1788. J t N F . Friday 13 Q.q It a f'. \k ^> MM v?«v. ■*»t"^* \, ^mmf. ■*""* I 306 1788. JUNt. i--*^*r-^'---V^'<'^s£^^ ^C>^.,.- ■'-Nrft^i^ ,»f -•. .1; 1 J im li PP|| .-..(i '*' 1- sU .,,«?, 'Ill-' I •' /hA/,/l./.h,,,',l, l-,,.,./'vJM;,//,rX:'l/„,/'i..:,./,//x -'■m^^ : ^-Mi . Sf ^ . ( It' % ^ . if •'^i*^^ :/^. >iOit'f.H WE3T rr*'f. ?«T-r»T' a^if^.tca Jj>? flrefeiwvich. A* when they p'^^' :....:-•.. .1..... 14..!.' i.*;i,i he i«t>u4h\var<{, caiT-ii r.lnngWi;'. -. :v. ^'cr t '1 . ' , i.:-i iKortly aftrr ■ v. . 'i ^aiiic piacc, with fmiw Kodiak hunters. Tiicy bri>u^;ht- a pr^vfitnt tdyt. dmrrn rreOi fnlmd, n»>tJ »n r<*nirn rer.eivc<;J a fmnll quautUjr «,rf' hnady and fomc tobacco. At n . . Utc extJetj.cs of the latbt aid ifltfcre hc^ from Sduth hali VVVn-, tdNoj-ti; Weft by fC;'\i«f*A fcJK W< ft half S« Uth ; Mow^k Saint Aw^,«fti»'p, N^rtn Wei^ htff Weft ; Point Bcdc, South EaA half li-'-ft ; &\\A Anchwr Point. N*f{i'lw,'.f "Wi'Tt ; dUr;\nt from tiic (Lirbonrd arsd, nciir**^ (lawc 42*out iix oc levgn Jv«». Yuda.»y 17 I I i>^l ;^ , Th^ t*f'»t^'^ af i^'Joti vrns <;9'' +1' Nurth. 'they bid %^ht win4« «» tib#r run ■'.«? C-Mjk'i Rivfr ; and ahc'ji tvn in il\c Alffmooit lev-n ftr ea^t can^'vsc.v/ne ;»1r)np,r;d^. from ;t hw hT't's.th.w vv'pfc n ?i^rt'< way ^^^ratAv^f "ths thtp. AU the iiftuvea of this |jt«c* were vitlt<^)toen, wvitoMaaaimiiy pr\Kiu':'^*i their ticketsy as }-.iirporis ic, 'goo-.il ofjkvje i* bwi: x\-yf "iv^tr" it/ pCKif as not to t reduce :m inch of f.ir amon};ft tjit;n. About three in thi «f- ternuon the tide fet fo llrnng «gaii\ft them, as well as 'it. fhuic, that they u'-froi^kJv.T the t^Ci,e!r;ty of dfopping anchor m fiv*: firthw'ma And ai> hm( wattis-, Jtvotsf rw» miJefc fio»j th', fl»ofe.-^ife« **ftifct»iik.'9 ©f tiw Js^^ were ft8 -nilkm' j-^H;"'^ fl-arbct^rH flvost-," #lfe6 S©«tfc !»? Sa^»' toKoiih. I tivcs a«*fe not provided vfuh'rltcfv ■^. i ■. iMix of faKt;, tiir ■,■■••), to purciiaic Ultra on »r,r t-.-^au. — i j«h t« mc degradnvg (yiUrn of sUr. kuiGan ;raiJ« «:. in- iiH; ytry tt^j^y miTCfi. %^ p!-***^ 0F, •mm .iW*:= ad(^;ijj4>v ^ .ttr t ..'.i >fe - ^■-f fn-rm/iJ- l•>»l<.^4|6^ ;S: -.'^•^■* - .4Ci^'i^itl^ ■'— — Tl,f- ;^ .V K%Vf*/t.- 'trv* /.>/y/»/«wW'. 1 M-»l 5^ * ,■ ., ' ^ ..' ,>■ \i% 'ftii |i ^v ("■■•?«*' v^. ■■fei /-;t -l%*si.^ 4 '■^i'*' ■-¥ P?*3».' <-^-, /A.,/- /.---r/vwff.v, ir/. .V ,\y//>,j./'u,;7,/l//\- ■if' W-^.--.^ ?ifti : 'li*'*,...-^*'^-*?.^' 'NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. t^reenwich. At midnight they h;id a frefli gale from tlie Southward, when they pafled the Barren Iflaiuls. At fix in the morning two canoes came along-fide from Point Bede, and fhortly after a Ruffian from the fame place, with fome Kodiak hunters. They brought a prcfent of a dozen frefh falmon, and in return received a fmall quantity of brandy and fome tobacco. At noon, the extremes of the larboard fliore bore from South half WefV, to North Weft by North ; and thofe on theflar- board fide, from South South Eaft, to North half Wcfl ; Cape Douglas bore Weft half South ; Mount Saint Augufline, North Wcfl half Wcfl ; Point Bede, South Eafl half Eafl ; and Anchor Point, North half Wefl ; diflant from the flarboard and nearefl fhore about fix or feven miles. The latitude at noon was 59" 41' North. They had light winds as they Tun up Cook's River ; and about two in the afternoon feven or eight canoes came along-fide, from a few huts that were a little way a-head of the (hip. All the natives of this place were ticket-men, and immediately produced their tickets, as paflTports for good ufage ;* but they were fo poor as not to produce an inch of fur amongfl them. About three in the af- ternoon the tide fet fo flrong againfl them, as well as in fhorc, that they were under the neceffity of dropping anchor in five fathoms and an half water, about two miles from the fhore. — The extremities of the land were as follow : — The ftarboard fhore, from South by Eafl, to North * Tliefc tickets are purchafed by the Indians from the Ruflian traders at a very dear rate, under a pretence that they ^'ill fecure them from the ill treatment of any ilrangers who may vifit the coaft ; and as they take care to exercifc great cruelty on fuch of the na- tives as are not provided wiihthefe inftruments of fafety, tlie poor people are very happy to purchafe them on any terms. — Such is the degrading fydem of the Rudian trade in thefe parts ; and forms a ilriking contrail to the liberal and humane fpitit of Britiili com- merce. CLqa *M 307 1788. Juki. Tuefday iT i • half II .. ft II 11 Wmi mm 308 1788. JUNI. VOYAGES TO THE half Weft : the larboard ftiore, from South South Weft, to Nortlj Wtft by Weft : Cape Douglas, Weft by Soutli : Mount St. Auguftine, Weft : Anchor Point South by Eaft half Eaft ; diftant ten or twelve miles. It' A ffllf }] ■k >\>dncrdayi8 Captain Douglas now ordered the boat to be hoiftcd out, in order to go on ihore to look for the watering-place, and obfervc the behaviour of the natives.— On landing, they found a fmall river running by the fide of the huts, and the natives very ftiy. About fifty or threefcorc of them fat b.isking in the fun, on the oppofite fide of the river, who took no notice whatever of the boat's crew. As the Iphigenia was in great want of wood and water, it was abfolutely necefl'ary to remain in their prcfent fituatiun till a fufficimt fupply was obtained of thefe cflential articles. — Befides, there were no more than two casks of beef, and one of pork, on board, to ferve them the reft of the fummer, and, as it might happen, to carry them down to the Sandwich Iflands. A fupply of filh was therefore necefl'ary to enable them to run the coaft down to the Southward, where they expciflcd to find abundance of furs ; and this river was expected to yield plenty of falmon, which might be falted down for the remaining part of their voyage. It was dcfigncd, on the morning of the 18th, to move the (hip higher up, fo as to lie oppofite the mouth of this river ; but before the tide became favourable ftie touched the ground ; they therefore run out the kedgc, hove up immediately, flipped the hawfer, and made fail, when they found a bank on the outfide with only two fathoms and a half: it being at this time low water, the boat was fent a-head to found ; when they ran up the river about eighteen miles, and came to with the ftream, over a fandy bottom, and about a mile and an half from the fliore, whicli liad a fteep beach. The boat was then fent to find out the moft convenient place for watering. Soon NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. JOV 1788. JUMI. Soon after they had dropped the anchor, fcveral canoes came from the huts which they fiw yefterday : and though the natives had nothing to fell, they continued near the Hiip till the evening. Some of them, in- deed, caught .1 ftw falmon, which were purchafcd with beads. It ap- peared as if theCe people were on tlie watch to prevent any of the natives up Cook's river from vifitlng tlie (hip. — The next day was employed in Tiiurfa»y 19 wooding and watering, clearing the hold, and brewing fpruce beer. Ot> the loth they had light winds and plcafant weather. — In the '''<•*/ »• morning they fighted the anchor uiul moored (hip, when all hands were employed in wooding and waterinp. The net was alfo hauled into the mouth of the river for l^ilmon, but without fucccfs. On the day following the fame wcatlier and occupations continued.-— Saiurday n About three o'clock in the afternoon five canoes came down the river, and the people in them called out Asi/^r, Niota, as foon as they got along fide the fhip. Five otter-skins were purchafed of thefe favages, but they would take nothing except broad bar-iron ; two feet of wliich were paid for each skin. It appeared as if they were at war with tlie Ruffians and Kodiak hunters, each of them being armed with a couple of daggers.— They carneftly entreated Captain Douglas to !;o higher up the river ; and gave him to underftand that it was from the r. port of Ins guns, which he ordered to be fired morning and evening, that they k;iew ot his arrival. They alfo informed him that they had got a confidcrablc quantity of Natunichiicka,orfea-otter skins, but were afraid to bruig them down, on- account of the KufTians. On ■■■. • 1-'..H* I.I / i H wB^ 119 Klp<|j ^^9 ■m ii wM Im'T H Rl BNyf Hijy ll 1 |m 310 1788. Jl'NR. SuiiUay 11 MoiitJay 13 TuefJay 14 VOYAGES TO THE, On the niorningof the 22d it blewa frefh gale, which raifed fo great a furf ill fhorc, that it was impoffible to get either wood or water to the fliip. — All the casks being full on the beach, it was thought proper to leave four men, with the fecond officer, on fhore all night, to guard them. About midnight the wind fliifted from South Weft to Eaft, and brought fair weather along with it. On the 23d, the weather was cloudy, with light winds from the South- ward and Eaftward. They now got the water on board, and coiled the , cables below. The long-boat alio having received fome damage, flie was hauled upon the beach, and the carpenters and caulkers employed in re- pairing her ; — they were likcwifc fet to work to prepare a couple of mafts and yards for her, as it was intended to difpatch her up tlie river, as high as Point Pofleffion, on the information of the natives. The long-boat being finifhed, at four in the morning of the 24th, flic was launched, and at half part ten was difpatched, with the turn of the tide, well manned and armed, on her intended expedition under the command of the chief officer. The inftru£lions given to him by Cap- tain Douglas were to the following purport: — ** He was ordered to proceed up as high as Point PolTeffion ; to look into moft of the fmall bays or low lands in fearch of inhabitants, and to barter his iron or beads for fea-otter skins, black foxes skins and falmon. If he met with any Ruffians, he was inftrufted to treat them with civi- lity, but at the fame time to be upon his guard, and not to fufFer either them or the natives to enter into his boat. — In cafe of bad weather, or if by any unforefeen accident he fliould be detained four or five days, Captain Douglas mentioned his defign, at the end of tliat time, to follow him, with the (hip, up the river, to Point Pofleffion ; and that 2 he i NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 311 He fliould fire guns to give him notice of his approach. The officer, 1788. however, was ordered to do his utmoft to return to the ftiip at the end ^'""** of five days. The carpenter and caulker being ordered on fhore to procure fbme fpars for oars, which were very much wanted, they were under the ne- ceffity of tracing the banks of the river to a confiderable diftance before they could find any that would anfwer their purpofe. When thefe peo- ple returned on board they declared, that as the long-boat turned the point, they heard the difcharge of eleven great guns. Though Cap- tain Douglas was, in fome degree, alarmtd when he firft received this intelligence; yet as hi- liad bet n informed by a Ruiltan who went on board the Iphigenia at Point Bede, that none of h's countrymen were {o high up the river ; ami as the long boat, if (he had been attacked, would have returned, the wind being fair to come back to the fliip, it was concluded, as it afterwards turned out, that thefe great guns were nothing more than mufquets, which the people had fired at fome ducks, and whofe report was conveyed by the wind, which blew right to the place where the carpenters were at work. About three o'clock in the afternoon of the 25th, two canoes came wcdnefdavis down the river, and brought a fea-otter cut through the middle, and other- wife mangled. It appeared as if thefe natives thought that the flefli was wanted, and not the (kin ; but no f itisfaiflory explanation could be obtained, as they did not underltaiid any words that were addrefled to them ; and in- deed gave no caufe for fuppoling th,\t they had ever traded with any Eu- ropean people. They had not a Tingle bead of any kind in their pofleflion ; and the few which were now giv.ii t'em, feemed to attra.ii4^^^ 1^ t ,316 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. Jui.v. the extremes of the former bore from Weft half South, to North North Eaft, the body of the latter South by Weft ; Cape Hnichinbroke Eaft North Eaft ; and an ifland lying off Siiug Corner Cove, North by Eaft ; diftant from Montagu Ifland two or three leagues. — Several guns were now fired to acquaint the natives of our arrival.— The obfervcd latitude was 60° 23' North. At four in the afternoon they ftood over to the Weft- em ftiore, with light winds and clear pleafant weather. At eight in the evening they wore and ftood in for the cove, with light airs and calms. Wednefday 9 At Hoon, on the 9th, dropped the ftream anchor in five fathorhs water, in Siuig Corner Cove. — The remainder of this day was employed in un- bending the fails, hoifting out the boats, and other necefthry matters. i Thiirfday 10 On the loth, fix canoes of the Chenouways tribe cime alongfide, but had no more than one fea-otter skin among them, which was purchafed, with five or fix feal-skiiis for the rigging. Kcnnoonock informed Captain Douglas that a fliip had been there, which had failed only ten days be- fore with plenty of skins, and it appeared for Cook's river. This in- telligence was confirmed by tlie party, who had been on ftiore for wood, as they had feen, infcribed on a couple of trees, y. Etches., of the Prince ofJVaUs, May ^th, 1788, end John Hutchim. C H A P. •^ f.o'» NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3'7 1788. JVLY. CHAP. XXVIII. The 1?W1QEVIA fails from Snug Corner Bay. — Tbey pafs Kaye's IJland. — C/ofe in with Cape Suckling. — Slow Progrefs along the Coajl^ on Account rf the Eajlerly Winds. — Send the Long-boat into Beering's Bay. which rclums after having been driven out to Sea.-^'they fee IJlands of Ice. — Pur chafe a great Number of Sea Otter Skins ^ i£c. of the Natives of Crofs Cafe. — A fngular Example of the Pvwer of the Women among them. — Steer into Sea- Otter Bay. — Pafs "Douglas IJland. — Enter a Bay called Port Mcares. — • Pafs Rofe Point. — Obfervations on the Coajl. — Join the Felice at Nootka Sound. TILL the 14th, the people on board the Iphigenia were employed in Monday 14. wooding, watering, and repairing the fails. During that interval they had been vifited by feme canoes, which brought fifli, two river- otter skins, and fame feal-skins. Of this party there was a man of the Tauglekamute tribe, who informed Captain Douglas that they had plenty of skins in his diftrift, and promifcd to return the following morning to attend the (hip thither. At tliree o'clock in the afternoon, a light breeze fpringing up from the Weft, they weighed, and turned out of the cove. At ten in the evening Cape Hinchinbroke bore South Eaft by South, half South, and the North end of Montagu Ifland, South half Eaft ; diftant from the nearcft land four or five miles. At /n "■ '"'■'f-JS^'S-.^".*"K^X""VX", • i i I if V! ^7. i*. 5.8 1788. JULT. Tucfday ij Friday it V O YAG ESTOTHE At eight o'clock in the morning two canoes of the Chenouways tribe came alongfide with fome skins, chiefly of the otter cubs, which Captain Douglas told them they ought not to deftroy. At noon the weather was calm and cloudy. Cape Hinchinbroke bearing South South Eaft:, and the North Eaft end of Montagu Ifland bearing South, diflant three or four leagues ; at eight in the evening the former of thefe places bore South Eaft half South, and the latter South ; diftant from the main laud four or five miles. On the 1 8th at noon, tlie South end of Kaye's Ifland bore North Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, diftant ten leagues. The extremities of the continent bore from North North Eaft half Eaft, to Weft by North ; and Montagu Ifland from Weft half North, to Weft South Weft. The obferved latitude was 59** 52' North, and the longitude 214° 2' Eaft of Greenwich. At one o'clock in the afternoon a breeze fprung up from the Southward and Weftward, they therefore fet all their fail, and ftood for the South end of Kaye's Ifland, as they knew from former experi- ence that there was not any paflage for a fliip through Comptroller's Bay. Saturday 19 At fix in the morning they were clofe in with the Cape, when they had ground from ten to twenty fathoms, over a clayey bottom. At noon the wind was variable ; and Cape Suckling bore Weft by North, diftant three or four leagues. Theobferved latitude was 59** 57'Northj and the longitude a 15" 51' Eaft. They had a light breeze from the Sout'i- ward and Eaftward till half paft three in the afternoon, when it took them back, and blew from Eaft North Eaft in heavy fquallsi w'th rain. Being clofe In with the low land off Cape Suckling, and the current fet- ting them on Kaye's Ifland, they carried a prefs of fail to clear the South end of it. a At V' ..«,-i^rt»*i^ «*«-v..*#^^...jfcii'^*ii . ^*^^.:fiM't>'^**:r .", ... 'yiXU- .--.^^^J^^i^l '^"-^mnis^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. At two in the morning the weather was moderate, with the wind at the Eaft : At noon the body of Kaye's Ifland bore South Weft ; the ex- tremities of the continent from Cape Suckling bearing Weft by South to North Eai^ half Eaft, diftant eight leagues. The obfervcd latitude was 59° 57' North, and longitude 216° 14' Eaft. Light winds from the Eaftward till fix in the afternoon, when the wind came round to the North, and at eight ftiifted to the North Eaft. 3»9 1788. July. Sunday ae At run>rire Kaye's Ifland bore Weft half North, diftant fourteen Monday i« leagues. At eleven it blew frefti, with the land in fight ; and at noon theobferved latitude was 59" 18' North, and the longitude 216° 23' Eaft. At five in the afternoon they lay to under the main-fail, with ftrong gales from the North Eaft*, and extreme cold. On the morning of the 22d they faw the land, bearing North North Tuefdayi* Eaft, diftant fifteen or fixteen leagues. At eight the gale abated, when they ftood in for the land, as they did not wifli to pafs unfeen ou any part of the coaft where there was a probability of inhabitants. At nooa the weather became moderate, and the obferved latitude was 59" 5' North, longitude 217° 10' Eaft. Frefti breezes fprung up from Eaft and Eaft by North, with heavy rain, at fix in the afternoon ; and at eleven at night it blew very hard, which obliged them to wear, and ftand to the South- ward under courfes and double reefed main-top-fail. In this manner, and with the fame variable weather, the Iphigenia Wedntiaayj* proceeded to run parallel with the coaft, fometimes in fight of land, and at other times at too great a diftance to fee it, or obftruded from the view of it by an hazy atmofphere, till the 30th ; when, at four o'clock in the morning, th«y faw land ; the extremities of which bore from North Weft half North, to North Eaft, diftant fix or eight leagues. From fix to % J: I 320 1788. JVLV. VOYAGES TO THE to tcti they had a light breeze from South South Weft, with which thej flood into the bay. At noon it was calm and hazy, when they made but an indilFerent obfcrvation, according to which their latitude was 59° 27' North, longitude 219" 42' Eaft. At half part twelve a light breeze fprung up from the Weftward, with which they fteercd Xcrtli till fix in the evening, when it fell calm. Be- ing within a few Ic.igues of the low l.uid, and on the Eaft fide of the bay, they obl'crved the appearance of fmoke, and accordingly ftood towards it ; but the wind and tide failing, the long-boat was at eight in the evening lioifted out, in order to be fcnt to the head of the bay ; but the appearance of bad weather occafioned her being detained till morning. At nine they clued the top-fails up, and dropped the ftream-anchor in twenty-eight fathoms water over hard ground. At midnight it was perceived that the fhip had driven off the bank into deeper water; they therefore gave her more cable, as it was bad anchoring-ground; but as the wind and tide were both adverfe, they kept the anchor down till near flack tide. |;W ^tk '• 'M \l. Thuifday jt At three in the morning they hove up, and made fail toward the low land, where they faw the fmoke. At four the weatiier being moderate and clear, the long boat was difpatched, well manned and armed, under the command of the chief officer, who was inftru^led to proceed towards the bottom of the bay, and to make fuch examination of it, and obtain fuch communication with any inhabitants he might find there, as would tend to the procuring furs, provifions, &c. — At the entrance of this bay they had fifteen, ten, and eleven fathoms water, over a rocky bot- tom, but higher up no foundings could be obtained with fifty fathoms of line. — At noon the latitude, by account, was 59° 41' North, longitude 219"* 47' Eaft. At three in the afternoon, having loft fight of the long- v.>t ' ^^. t ---- »r- :::s»a )er NOR Til WEST COAST OF AMERICA. • jn long-bont, and lliiding that (he was driven out to fca, tlicy wore ami 178J. ran down towards her. At half part four they got figlit of her, and '"'^' within an liour after came along-fide, when (he was found nuking very bad weather, on account of the heavy fca : (he was immediately hoifted in, and they made fail to the Southward and Eaftward. AlfOlMf At three in the morning of the ifl: of Auguft it blew ftrong from the '"'^> • North Eaft, with heavy rain.^At noon, tlic latitude by account was 59° 10' North, longitude 219° 33' Eaft. At three in the afternoon the weather moderated, when they tacked, and flood to the Northward and Eaftward. At fun-rife land was feen, the extremities of which bore North Eaft half Eaft, to Weft, diftant fix or fevcn leagues. At noon the extremities of the land bore from North Weft, to Eaft South Eaft, diftant ten leagues. The obfcrved latitude was 59° 16' North, and the longitude 220° 11' Eaft. In the afternoon the clouds cleared up from over the land, which gave them a fight of Mount Saint Elias, bearing North Weft by Weft, at the diftance of about twenty leagues.— On feting fomcthing floating, which they could not afcertain, as they had but little wind, the jolly-boat was hoifted out to examine it, when it proved to be a dead bird, of a large fizc, which Captain Douglas has not thought worthy of a defcription. Sattird.iy a In the morning the jolly-boat was difpatched, with orders to proceed withui a mile of the ftiore, to examine if there was any appearance of inhabitants ; and about noon flie returned, in company with a large ca- noe, containing about thirty Indians. — They now dropped the beft bower anchor ia twenty- fevcn fathoms water, and purchafed of the natives fe- veral cotfacks or drefles of fea-otter skins, and a pair of gloves of the fame. The extremities of land, when at anchor, bore from Weft North S f Weft Sunil.iy 5 u - . !* VOYAGES TO T II R 17S3. Weft, to E.ift ly South hah' South, ilift.uit four or five mllos. The ob- IcrVLil latitude was 59' 10' North, and the longitude- 321° 2;' Eaft. 1 h f TucfJciy s Early next morning the people returned, as th- f.iilors obfcrved, with all their old cloatlis, a.> the cotl.icks uhiih th.y ixiw otVcrod for I'iilc had been much worn : thcfc articles, however, w ere purchafed, witli a quantity of falmon ; and at nine o'clock they wtiglud anchor and proceeded along the fliore.— At noon the cxtreiuif""' of tlie land bore from Wcfl by North to Eaft; the latitude by obfervation was ^(/ l' North, longitude 221° 53' Eafl:. The place where the fliip lay was called Ti- anna's Bay, in honour of that chief; ho was indeed very much dlfl'atis- fied with the prefent climate, againft the cold of which he could not protetfl hlmfelf, though he had as much cloathing on him as he could well carry, — and was become very impatient to return to Owhyhtc. if:-;, • .|.!il ^h 1, ^ V'cdiicfday < At fun-rife on the 6th it fell calm, and continued fo till eleven o'clock^ when a light breeze fprung up from the South Weft. — At noon Cape ?'air Weather bore North Eaft by North, and Crofs Cape South Eafl: by Eaft, diflant from the neareft land four miles, running in for Crofs Sound. — The latitude by account was 58° 10' North, and longitude 223° 15' Eafl:. — At three in the afternoon, being pretty high up the Sound, and furrounded with what appeared to be iflands, as far as the , eye could reach, the jolly-boat was hoirted out, and fent to difcover if they were rocks or iflands of ice. — On her return, the account of the oflicer was, that the iflaml he touched at was ice, as well as two or three other fmaller on 's which he had paflld : concluding therefore that the iflands on the outfidc of tlicni might be ice alio, they hauled clofc in with the fliorc, and fent tlie boat a head to found. At •«te ^^ A: *•-* »■- - -o im v i N O R T [I W r: ST COAST O 1' A M K R I C A. Ar (1x in the cvciiinjT a canoe from tVofs C.ipc arnvnl aloMR-fulc tlic (liip with one man, who canio on board quite naked. On bci-jjj palliitcil witli a j.ickct, a pair of trowllrs, and an hat, lie appeared to be very much dciij'litcd, and rciiudkd them to go in dole with the Ihip, when he would lliew them the vilhige of whicli he was an inliabitaiit. Ho accordingly went a-hcad in his canoj, and Kd them in anioiip, a pared of rocks, with only tliree or four fathoms water, fo that Captain Dou- j'Jas thouglit it nccclVary to take the pilotage of the vtllll upon himfelf; and as it was dark and hazy, he found it a matter of fome difficulty to ex- tricate himfelf from his very unpleafant fituation. Iloweve'% at half paik ten at night, they came to in leveutecn fathoms water, over a roeky bottom. 3=3 1783. Very early In the morning five canoes came along-fide, when forty Thmrjiyi fca-ottcr skins and fevcral cotfacks were purchafcd ; but the natives here feemcd to underftand the value of their merchandize, and Captain Douglas was obliged to give them the price they demanded. By eight o'clock they had quitted the (hip : — But it is impollible to take leave of them without mentioning a circumftance, whieh appears to be pecu- liar to this tribe of Indians; among whom the women poflefs a predo- minant influence, and acknowledged fuperiority over the other fex— of this they gave a very ftriking example. I One of the chiefs having unintentionally interrupted a canoe, in which was a woman, from coming clofe to the fliip, flic feized a paddle, and ftruek him fo violently with it on the head, that he was almoll difabkd from employing a fimilar inftrument, to ward olV the blows wliich followed. In this manner they continued their conteft, flie in ftriking, and he in defending himfelf, for near half an hour ; when Captain Douglas, in order to put aa end to this fingular Sf2 fray. m ■^ 3U VOYAGES TO THE m ■^ '( i:'Wi r mm^' i 1788 AvcusT. fray, fired a mufquet over tluir heads, with concomitant figns of his difplcafure, but without effc(fl. For the woman now ftepped into the canoe of the man, who appeared to be in a ft?te of complete humiliation, and pulling out a knife from fomc part of her drefs, (he fpoke for fomc time, and then cut him acrofs the thigh. Though the blood guilicd in ftrcams from the wound, (he was about to repeat her violence, when Captain Douglas interfered in fuch a manner as to oblige this vengeful dame to return to her own boat, and give the bleeding objefl of her vengeance an opportunity to paddle away to the (hore. During the whole of this engagement, if it may deferve that name, not one of the men dared to interfere ; nay it appeared that they were in fuch an entire (late of fubmirtion to female controul, that they could not difpofe of a skin till the women had granted them the neceflTary permiffion. As thefe people had difpofed of all their skins, at noon Captain Doughis made fail to the South Eaft, with the wind from the North Weft. The cbfervcd latitude was 58° 02' North, and longitude 223° 26' Eaft. The weather was now moderate and fair, and they kept a good look out at the maft-head for canoes or fmoke. At feven In the evening a canoe was fecn approaching the (hip, which foon after arrived with two large otters and one fmall one, juft killed, which were purchafcd. The man on boaid the canoe gave them alfo to underftand that more skins would be brought in the morning. They, therefore, at eight o'clock, ran into twenty-three fathoms of water, and dropped the befl bower; bottom, fandand (hells. al riirfays At fun-rife eight canoes came along-fide, when fifty-fix fea-otter (kins were purchafed, fome of which were already formed into drefles. At eleven o'clock they weighed anchor and made fail, running along the (hore, ►»v"*" - NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. fliore, to the South Eaft. The extremities of the land bore from Weft South Weft, to South Eaft by South, off (here about three or four miles. At noon the obfervcd latitude was 57° ^S' North, longitude 224° 15' Eaft. The weather continued moderate, with the wind from the North Weft. At two in the afternoon they fliw a large bay, but being clofe in with the land, and there being no appearance of inhabitants, they tacked and ftooJ out. At ten it fell calm, and continued fo till noon the next day, when it was fo hazy as to preclude making an accurate obfervation. The bay they left the preceding evening bore North North Eaft, off ftiore about two leagues. At three in the afternoon a frefh breeze fprung up from the Weftward, and perceiving a bay which bore Eaft off the (hip, they hauled in, to fee if there were any inhabitants, but not difcovering the leaft figns of any, they hauled out again, and fliortened fail for the night, not wilhing to run on, leaft they (hould pafs any of the inhabited parts of the coaft, and of courfe lofe the advantage of trading with the natives. In the morning they made fiil, and got on deck all their bread to dry. At noon Mount Edgecombe bore North Weft by Weft half Weft ; the extremities of the land alfo bearing from North Weft half Weft, to Eaft South Eaft, diftant off Ihore four miles. The obferved latitude was 59° 19' North. From a medium of feveral .liftances of the fun and moon, the longitude wii^; 224° 50' Enft of Greenwich. — At eight in the evening, it blowing frefh, they reefed the top-fuls and ftiortencd fail for the night, two fmall inaiuls b.-aring from the (hip South by Eaft half Eaft. The extremities of the land bore from North Weft by Weft half Weft, to South Eaft by Eaft, diftant from the (liorc five leagues. 3^5 1788. AUOUST. Saturday 9 Sunday t ( *4 Early ^ll ■ -.v-'.^i'^a liil'iilf jf^ a . :ii^; 326 1788. AunusT. "Tucfilay I : -,v' VOYAGES TO THE Early In the morning of the nth they made lall for the land, and at nocn it was diftant about ci^ht or nine leagues. Tiic obkrvcd lati- tude was ^5" 21' North, and the longitude 2:5' 5;;' Eaft. A briik gale fpringing up from the Northward and Weftward, at three o'cljck in the afternoon they ran acrofs the mouth of a large biy which forms two capes. The fouthern one was called Cape Adamfon, and is high, bluff land, hinr-; in the latitude of 55" 28' Nordi, longitude 216" 21' E;ifl:. Tlie otlicr to the North was named C.ipc Barnctt. It is low towards the f>.a, but riles gradually within land to a confidiM-able height, and Is in the latitude of 55° ,9' Nortli, longitude 226' 04' EalL Having run a confiderable way up the bay, they entered the mouth of a flrait p.'.flage, not more than half a mile acrofs from fliore to fliore, ilccring North : I'y tiie number of whales wliich were blowing a long way within the paflagc, it was evident that there was ]i!j!ity of water for the fliip. At tight o'clock, iu the evening they dropped the beft bower in feventeen fatlioms, with a fandy bottom, about half a miic . from tlie Ihore. The fliip was now entirely land-locked, except at the ' entrance; and her prcfeat fituation was named Sea-otter Harbour, from the great number of thol, animals which were in the water. They were as tiiick as a ilock of ducks ; and the man at the maft-hcad taking them for rocks, and calling out accordingly, occafioncd a confiderable impedi- ment in the courfc of the (hip. Early in the morning of the 12th, the jolly-boat was difpatchcd to found, a-.ul the long-boat to look out for a watering place. At nine the latter returned without having made the exptcflcd difcovcry. A very plentiful, as well as convenient run of water, was, however, foon after found by Captain Douglas on the oppofite Ihore. lie alfo faw many 2 places ^nm-vw--^ - V — 1— of SEA OTTER IIAKBOl R n/ttf Sr PATIiICi^ f :f <. ^B X. H " - wawWW"" I" .** "?- JfVV" NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. places where there had been fires, but no other traces of hihabitants.— In pulli'ig up the bay he chfcovcred a pafl'ige out to fea, and that it was an Ifland where the fliip l.iy : he is alio clearly of opinion that the land whicli formed theftraits to the Northward inuil confift of idands. — All hands were now employed in cutting wood, getting in water, or over- hauling tlie rigging. Captain Douglas, tlicrefore, took this opportunity of taking out the jolly-boat to explore the head of the fliraits ; when, after pulling three or four hours, he faw two arms, one ftrctching to- wards the North, and the other about Eaft South Enft. By the number of wliaies which he faw blowuig in thefe different branches, he con- cluded there mufl be paflages out to fca through both of them. He landed at feveral places, and faw fpots where fire's had been made, as well as hoards for canoes ; but no other figns whatever of inhabitants. At feven in the evening he returned on board, and gave orders to get under way. At eiglit tluy fleered tlnough the mouth of tlie ftraits ; Cape Barnett b.aring South Weft by Weft half Weft, and Cape Adamfou- South by Weft half Weft. 3^7 1788. AUCUiT. % They had light winds from the Northward till nine in the morning, w-dr.cfjajix' when it frcfhcned up. At noon the former Cape bore North Weft by Weft, and the latter North Weft. The appearance of a large bay bore North by Weft half Weft ; a fmall ifland, about two miles in circum- ftroncc, South Soutli Eaft, diftant feven or eight miks. It was now named Douglas Ifland ; and tlitre are two or three fmall, low and rocky iflands lying oft' its North and South ends. It is very high, and covered with verdure, aiid may be lien at the diftance of fixteen or feventeen ka^^uos. It lies ten leagues from r';-; main land, in the latitude of 54° 58' Norrh, and longitude 226'' 43' Eaft. Between this ifland and tlie main there is another of leflor extent, which is rocky, barren, and alnioft level with 'Jic water. Between thcfc two iflands they lleercd their courle bjr. »•:^i•. • . \ « i ■'H Mi ■.'^' S28 178S. Ave us r. VOYAGES TO THE by compafs, Eafl: Soutli Eaft, but could get no foundings with fiftj fathoms of Ihic. At three in the afternoon they had n ftcady breeze from the Weftward, with clear weather, when they pafled Douglas Idand ; but as they were fteering in for a bay which bore North Eaft by North, tliere came on a very thick fog. At half part four, they were vifited by two canoes, wlio appeared to have come out of the bay for which the Ipliigenia was fteering. Twenty-fix fea-otter ikins made in drefles, and Ibme birds, were now purchafed of their vifitors, who were fond of iron and beads, and were fatisfied with any quantity that was offered to them. ■Tluiifaav 14 At one In the morning it blew a ftiiTgale, with thick and foggy wea- ther ; and they flood off South South Weft till four, when they hove to. At nine the fog diminiflied, and tliey made fail in fliore. At ten tliey got fight of Douglas Ifland, Weft by North half North. At noon the main land extended from Eaft by North, to North Weft by Nortli, diftant four leagues off" ftiore. The obferved latitude was now 54° 43' North, and the longitude, as reduced from the laft lunar obfcrvatlons, 227° 37' Eaft. They continued fteering in for the bay which was feen tlie preceding evening, and at two in the afternoon they got within a fmali ifland that lies a quarter of a mile from the main land. Here it fell calm ; and a chief, with two large canoes, each containing between thirty and forty people, came along-fidc, finging a general chorus of no unpleafing effe£t. As the tide was adverle, the fliip was driving down very faft towards the ifland which was under her lee. The chief was therefore defired to lay hold of a rope, and tow the fliip higher up the the bay, which was immediately done ; the natives in the canoes con- tinuing their fong as they proceeded. At three they dropped anchor in j;wenty-thrce fathoms of water, with a bottom of fand an i fliells. Th« '■-4to-ai«> * •*-«t^r>j*.rf. ••/if. •-►-..-rt.*-* '. tri''****-' a**" w^^fct-^ ■'->'-■/* *ir rw<^ft«ktff.-"^^.«%«»r^^. r J 11 f If Av \*A ■'-n.W I'i^Jf^ k i i '^^ i ■ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The Weftcrn point of land which forms the bay, bore Eaft South Eaft, and the Eaftern point, Eaft North Eaft ; fo that a (hip lying there is only expofed to four points of the compafs ; — that is, between Eaft South Eaft and Eaft Noi th Eaft : (he will be land-locked every other way about a mile from the Weftern (hore. — It was now named Port Mearcs. The latitude of the (hip at anchor was, by feveral obfervations, 54" 51' North, and longitude, according to the refult of feveral diftancPT of the fuu and moon, 227° 54' Eaft of Greenwich. 3*9 1788. AVCU . £>^a,«t:totM4-w te«rw>'>^>M^*^.^«B»>!«»«M*>>«k-«'-*^-'-(:Ai>'.u-i»*' -«>«*.'.«*x « 'i* V l;lc- 330 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. then took him on deck, and pointing out to fea, made figns that the nickees came from thence. Though there was no land to be feen, as the coaft took an Eaftcrly dire£tion from Port Mearcs, at three in the after- noon thty weighed and made fail, fteering out to fea South Eaft, with a frefh breeze from the Weftward. Alter running fix leagues, they faw land, bearing from Eaft South Eaft, to South Weft, diftant about twelve leagues. — At nine it came on thick and hazy weather, when they hove the fliip to, with her head to the Northward and \Veftward.— During the night tliey had foundings from fixty to eighty fathoms^ with a fiinJy bottom. Thurfdayii At eight in the morning of the 21ft, it cleared up on the oppofite Ihore, fo tliat they had a fight of the land which forms Port Mearcs, bearing North North Weft, diftant nine or ten leagues. They then wore and made fail to the South Eaft. At noon they were clofe in with the land, which extended Eaft by North half North, to Weft by South. The obferved latitude was 54" 06' North, and the longitude 228° 04' Eaft. They now run along the ftiore, with a fteady breeze from the Weftward, towards a bay to which the natives had pointed. At two they faw a thick fmoke at the bottom of it, when they run into eleven and nine fathoms of water. — At half paft two a thick fog coming on, nnd land feen from the maft-head, trending due North, it was determined to difcovcr if there was any paflage, or if the land that was feen joined the main. At a quarter before three o'clock, as no canoes came ofF, they fet a prefs of fail, and fteered for the bluff high Ir'nd that bore North. At five it cleared up, fo that they had a fight of both fides, as well as of a fandy fpit, level with the water, which ran to the North- ward, as far as the eye could reach from the maft-head. At {even they had a ftifFgaie, and fiiw the eud of the low fpit of fand. At eight they hauled round the point, when itvvas difcovered that the land did not NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 331 not join the main, but formed a large iniind, which took a Southerly 1788. , - , Auautr. direflion.— After rounding the fandy level, they came to regular lound- •ngs of ten, eight and feven fathoms of water, about three or four miles from the ifland, the extremes of which bore from North by Weft, to South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft. At fix in the morning of the 23d, feeing no appearance of inhabi- Satuiasr>j tants, they weighed anchor and made fail, ftanding to the South Eaft, having land on both fides. The fandy point that was pafled on the pre- ceding evening, was named Point Rofc. It lics in the latitude of 54° 18' North, and in the longitude of 228° 39' Eaft. — It was now difcovercd that this was a large ftrait, and an ifland of great extent, where the an- chorage is good, and which, to all appearance, affords feveral harbours on the Northern and Eaftern fides. On the former there is a certainty of meeting with inhabitants ; and, in all probability, with abundance of furs. The centre of the ifland lies in th€ latitude of 53° 58' North, and in the longitude of 228" 54' Eaft. At noon they had light winds and calms, with clear weather, the ex- tremes of the ifland bearing from North North Weft, to South half Eaft, and thofe of the continent from Eaft by South, to North Nortli Eaft ; diftance of the coaft nine leagues, and from the ifland about eight or nine leagues. The latitude, by olifervation was ^t^° 55' North, and the longitude 229" 30' Eaft. — The variation, per medium of fix azimuths, 17° 43' Eaft; per amplitude, 17° 59'. At nine in the morning of the 24th, the longitude, from the medium Sunday m of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, was 230° 16' Eaft of Green- wich. — From nine till noon the weather was calm and clear, when the bearings of the land were as follows : — The extremities of the continent T t 2 bore MAWMtlMMi IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ J?' ^ ^ 4K^ 1.0 I.I US. IL25 i 1.4 U^l 1.6 HiotogFaphic ^Sciences Corporalion ^ \ ^. r<\- <^ ^-V 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WIBSTIR,N.Y. 14SM (71«) •72-4903 4^ i\ 33i 17S8. AVUVST. ' VOYAGES TO THE ;* bore North Weft by North, half North, to Eaft by South ; a fmall bluff iflaml, lying off tlie main, bearing North by Weft, diftant ten leagues, and the extremities of Charlotte Ifland from Weft to South. I fliall here take the opportunity of obferving, that (hips which arrive early on the coaft.when they muft cxpeft to meet with heavy gales of wind, will find it their advantage to make the South end of this ifland, and to enter the ftmits in the latitude of 52°, and the longitude of 229° 30', when they will find fhelter either in the ifland or on the continent. — It may be alfo added, that as fliips which are returning from the North at a late period of the fcafon, are liable to be blown off the coaft, it would be advifable for them to make Douglas Ifland, and enter the ftraits in the latitude of 54° 30', and longitude 226' 30', when they will find good an- chorage, as well as inhabitants, on the North fide of the ifland. — On the continent they will alfo have the advantage of Port Meares and Sea Otter Sound, befides feveral other bays which have not yet been ex- plored, between 56 and 54 degrees of North latitude. Monday 15 On the moriiing of the 25th they had loft fight of land, and, as the change of the moon was approaching, when a gale of wind might be ex- pected, which, perhaps, would have obliged them to run immediately to the Sandwich Iflands for a fupply of provifions, it was refblvedto fteer at once for Nootka Sound, without encountering the land again, iu order to add to their ftock of furs. Ik Tuciaayac On the 26th, at half paft nine, their longitude, from a medium of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, was 132° 38' Eaft of Greenwich, with a ftrong gale, fteering Eaft North Eaft ; and at noon their latitude was, by obfervation, 49° 42' North. ■' - % -At w NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. At eight ill the evening they were clofc in with the entrance of Nootka Sound, when it fell calm, and the tide fctting out, they drop- Aucuit. ped the heft bower anchor in twenty-three fathoms water. 333 1788. I M At feven on the morning of the 28th, a light breeze fpringing up Thurfd.y»j from the Weftward, they got under way, and ftood in for the Sound ; and before noon the Iphigenia, with her crew in good health and fpirits, joined the Felice in Friendly Cove, CHAP. i' I i 33* 1788. VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. XXIX. f," ' • October. Monday 17 7'/&(? Iphigenia, in Company with the NonrH West America Schooner* /eaves Nootka Sound. — Scarcity of Provijions on board. — Arrive off Mowee^ one of the Sandwich IJlands. — Supplied with Plenty of Provijions.— *tianna receives his Brother on board: their affectionate Meeting. — Arrive off Owhyhee. — A Vifttfrom the King^ and his "Joy at feeing Ttanna. — Anchor in Karakakooa Bay, — Great Abundance of Provijions fent on board.— Ceremony cf receiving Captain Douglas on Shore. — I'he King and ^een of Owhyhee Jleep on board the Iphigenia. — 7he North West AytURic a parts from^ her Cable. — Tianna goes on Shore to get PermiJJion for the King's Divers to afjiji in recovering the Cable. — The Ceremony previous to their entering the iVater. — T'he Length of Time they remain under it. — The Iphigenia parts from her Cable. — Sufpedl the Natives of this ASl of Treachery. — The Divers again employed, and recover the Cable, &c. — Tianna leaves the Ship, with all his Treafures, to fettle in Owhyhee. — An Account of the late Change in the Government of that IJkind, &c. THE Iphigenia remained in Friendly Cove after the departure of the Felice, till the 27th of 0£lober, the interval of which was em- ployed in fitting the North Weft America for fea, and making fuch other preparations as their approaching voyage rendered neceflary.— At noon on that day they quitted Nootka Sound, and proceeded on their way to the Sandwich Iflands ; — and, as nothing particular happened in the courfe of it, but a fcarcity of provifions, which occafioned a very fliort allowance, - f l .' K «^j ff WHi< | nn « L, i l -ai ''"""'w-iW NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 335 allowance, we fliall at once fuppofe the Iphigetiia and her confort to be 1788. in fight of Owhyhce ; which welcome objedl prefentcd itfcif to the crews °«<^"""^''' of both veflels at tiay-light in the morning of the 6th of December: — ^aiunia) s the Weft end of that ifland then bore South South Weft, three quarters Weft, diftant nine or ten leagues ; and the Ifland of Mowee bore Weft, diftant feven leagues. — The wind having drawn round to Soutli South Weft, occafioned them to run over to the South Eaft fide of Mowee. rJ Tiainia, whofe impatience fince the Iphigenia left Samboingan, had fometimes broke forth into the violence of anger, and might have been expefted, on approaching his native country, to have aflumed the ftiape of the moft violent joy, became grave and thoughtful ; and any occafional eagernefs which animated his looks and anions, when they drew nigh to the Sandwich Iflands, rather implied the anxiety of expe£lation, than fen- fations of pleafure. — He knew enough of the fituation of his country to caufe a very powerful conteft between hope and fear in his bofom ; and thofe apprehenfions of danger which weighed notliing with him when failing over diftant (eas, feemed, in fome degree, to opprefs his fpirits, when he was alwit to encounter it. — It was certainly a period of the moft painful fufpenfe, as he was uncertain whether the treafurcs he pof- fefll'd wo«ld be employed to elevate him into confequence, or to pur- chafc his fafety ; — whether they would be allowed to enrich himfelf, or feizcd, to form the wealth of others. — He had left his ifland in a ftate of peace, but he hiid every reafon to fear that he (hould find it in a ftate of war; or at leaft under the government of an ufurped power, which he could not for a moment fuppole would be friendly to him. — Such appeared to be the ftate of Tianna's mind on arriving among his native iflands. We had no fooner appeared ofF Mowee than a great number of canoes came off with hogs, yams and plantains. — On this fide of the ifland a tlxere ; '» 1 .'1 . v«l 33^ 1788. UZCEMBER. VOYAGES TO THE there is a large town, the refidence of Tlteerce, the fovercign of Mowce, who was at this time on a vifit to Taheo, king of Atooi, in whofc abfence the government was left to the care of Harwallence, brother-in- law to Tianna, of whofe arrival he was no fooner informed, than he ordered a prcfent of hogs for the fhip ; but before it arrived Tianna had obfervcd his brother on (hore, and having drefled himfclf in his beft ap- parel, dcfired that meflage a miglit be fent to invite him on board. — On his arrival they met as brothers fhould do after a long feparation ; the whole of their condu£l to each other was affedionate ; — they melted into tears, and almoft drew the fame from the eyes of thofe wlio beheld them. After their firft emotions had fubfided, the chief requefted Captain Dou- glas to remain with him for a few days, and engaged to fupply him with any quantity of provifions that miglit be demanded; but as he faw no place where they could come to an anchor in fafety, the furf at the ■fame time beating with great violence, and an heavy fwell with the wind blowing in fhorc, Captain Douglas was under the neceliity of declinin^j the invitation. ;'t,W: , Tianna being extremely anxious to vifit Owhyhee, they wore, aivd ^ood at noon for the North Weft point of that ifland. simdaj 7 At noon on the 7th, a canoe from Owhyhee came along-fide, with a friend oF Tianna, who had heard in the courfc of the night, frona Mowce, of his arrival. — ^In the afternoon feveral relations of Abinui came on board, and in the evening Tianna difpatched a friend to Tome- homy-haw, to give him notice of their approach. Mondays On the following morning a great number of canoes came off from Toe-yah-yah Bay, with hogs, fowls, and taro-root. — The winds were light and variable, and the latitude, by obfervation, 20° 11' North. At fun- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 337 fuii-fct the extremes of Owhyhcc bore from Nortli to South by North, 17*^8. DBC£M»!«. diltancc off" (hore three leasjwcs. At two III the morning there was Iicavy rain, with thunder and light- TticfJ«y> ning. At day-li<;ht they liad loll fight of tlie North Weft America ; but at nine liuv her clofe in fliorc. At eleven they hove to till the fchooiier came up. At noon they were only four miles ofVfliore, and the obfervcd latitude was 19° 4+' North. In the afternoon feveral of Tianna's re- lations came on board ; and fo liberal was he difpofed to be to them all, that if he had not been checked in his gcnerofity, the whole of his trea- fure would have been at once divided among them. The King alfo fcnt a prefent to Captain Douglas, accompanied with a meflage that lie would pay him a vifit as foon as he had com^ to an anchor in the bay. The current having fet them a confiderable way to the Northward, at Wcdn.fjayn day-light tliey made fail for the bay ; and at noon the latitude, by obfer- v.ition, was 19° 35' North. Tianna now difpatchcd one of the chiefs who had come to welcome his arrival, to invite the King to come on board ; and at two in the afternoon he made his appearance in a large double canoe, attended by twelve others of the f.mic fizc, beautifully adorned with feathers. As foon as he came on board. Captain Douglas fdlutcd him with fevcn guns. After crying overTianna for a confiderable time, the King prefented Captain Douglas with a moft beautiful fan, and two long- feathered cloaks. The light winds and number of canoes hanging on the fhip, prevented her from making any way through the water : fo that it b:*came a matter of neccffity to requeft his Majefty to taboo the fliip, witii which he readily complied, defiring permiflion, at the fame time, for ])imfelf and feveral of the chiefs to fleep on board. I 'I il Uu They Hi i k > ! i 33« 1788. DiCIMItR. ThurOlay 11 VOYAGES TO THE They continued working into the bay till two o'clock in the morning; when they dropped anchor in twenty-one fiithoms water, at the diflancc of tlirec quarters of a mile from fliore. The Kin; proftficd the warmcfl: friend(hip for the Captain of the Iphigcnia, — declared that the ifland (hould belong to him while he remained there,— and, to prove the fin- cerity of iiis regard, exchanged names with him. Hut however flattering all thefe attentions miglit be. Captain Douglas thought it not impofllble but that fome attempt might be made to fcize the fchooner, as (he ap- peared to be fmall, and her crew few in number ; he therefore, in the evening, carried tlie King on board the North Weft America, when by f^iluting him with all her gun^and other explanations concerning the poflibility of defending her, when attacked, by retiring to clofc quarters,, the difficulty of getting poflclllon of her muft have appeared very evident to the royal vifitor. When, however, Tianna explained to him the manner and time in which flie was built, l:e intreated that a Cfirpenter might be left at Ovvhyhce to aflift Tianna in forming fuch another ; and,, indeed, fo carntft were the requcfts of them l)oth on this fubjeiSt, that it was necefihry to m.ike fomething of a conditional prQmife, at leaft,. for ihcir prefent fatisfaction. Friday 1 J On the motning of the 12th the Captains of both fliips accompanied the King and Tianna in the jolly-boat, on fliore. They were met oti the beach by three pricfts, who chaunted a kind of fong, and prefentcd a fmall hog and cocoa-nut ; the former of which was given by the King to Captain Douglas. — This ceremony continued about ten minutes, after which they were introduced into a large houfc fprcad with mats, and a kind of party-coloured cloth, when, after the repetition of thefe cere- monies, and the pricft had chaunted a third fong, two baked hogs were brought in, of wliich the Engliflii gentlemen alone eat, and then pro- ceeded .lii iii ii i w^ ^ VORTII WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 33<^ cecded to take a walk, in wliich tlicy were not ir.tcrruptcJ by a fingle 17S0. perfon, as all tlie natives were lul^occdov. tlic occallon, and, of courfe, con- ^c^"**** fined to their houfcs. Nothing was fecn in this little cxcurdon worth a repetition, but a clump of cocoa nut trees, whole trunks were pierced by the balls of the Refo- lution and the Diicovery. It being extremely hot, they returned and dined with the King, on frelh fifli and potatoes.— The other chiefs fat at fomc dirtancc during dinner, and then made their meal on roaAed dogs, taro-rocts and potatoes ; as at tliis feafon of the year even the chiefs are forbidden to eat hogs and fowls, from the King down to the loweft Eree. In the evening the King and Qiiecn returned with Captain Douglas on board the Iphigenia, as they confidcred it to h^ a luxury of no common defcriptioa to flcep in his cot. This day was chiefly employed in killing and falting down the hogs; s.itiiri!ay ij but as the coppers on board for heating the w.iter were very fmall, tlicy made but flow pregrefs in this neceflary occupation. At three in the morning of the I4ih, the fchooner came under the -"'A^ '♦ ftorn of the Jphigcnia, when Captain Funtcr gave the very dlfagrccablo information that (lie had parted hor cable.— After having moored her to the Iphigenia, Tianna was re Tvftcd to go on (hore, and entreat tlic King to fend off his divers, in ord- -ecover the anchor ; and at tight o'clock he came off witli tlitni. — The fchooner having lain in thirty fathoms water, and not having loft more than three or four fithoms of cable, a very great depth muft have remained for the natives to have explored, in order to fucceed in the bufinefs about which they were to be employed. The following ceremony, however, was to be performed, belore they entered upon their fearch: — When their canoes were arrived at the place U u a where I. Ill (1 I , A 340 1788. Pecfmbir. VOYAGES TO THE wlicrc the anchor hiy, ft;vcral cal.ibaflics wltli taro-root were prcfcntcil by a chief to i')\ men, who employed about half an hour at the rcpaft ; when one of t!)c chiefs who acconipanial thcni gave three loud yells, ;.ucl waved a piece of white cloth over his head ; at this (ignal the fix men plunged into the" fea, and difappcarcd in a moment. — Four of the fix remained beneath the water about five minutes; the fifth continued about a minute longer, and when he came up was almoft exhaufted ; tv/o men immediately feizcd and dragged him to the boat : — In the mean time there was no appearance of tlie fixth, who was confidered as loft, wlien he was flen near the furface of the water, but finking down again ; three of the divers, however, plunged inftantly after him, and brouglit him up, but in a fenfelefs ftatc, and with ftreams of blood if- luing from his mouth and noftrils. — It was fome time before he was fuffici- ently recovered to inform t'aem that he had not only got hold of the cable, but had cleared it. This man, according to the account of Captain Funtcr of the North Weft America, was beneath the water the fpace of feven mi- nutes and an half. It appeared, however, that the anchor was in too great a depth of water to alTbrd any profpctH: of its being recovered.— Thefe people were amply rewarded for their exertions. Captain Douglas having given orders to right the anchor, thought it prudent to move further in towards the village of Kowrowa, and drop- ped anchor in twenty fithoms water, about a quarter of a mile from the ftiore; — but, fitiding it to be bad ground, a warp was run out, and the (hip hauled into fourteen fiithoms water. 4-! \i\ Im/, MuiiJayij At day-light the jolly-boat was fent to found, when, on its being dil'covered that the ground was by no means clear of the coral rock, on the Kowrowa fide, they weighed anchor, and warped the (hip oppofite Sandy Bay. on the Karakakooa fide, where they dropped the bower an- chor in twenty fathoms water, with a bottom of grey fand ; the two points which NORTH WF.ST COAST OF AMERICA. 54« whkh fuim the liiy, Ixmiiip, Wtd: half Nortli, to Soutli one qunrtcr ,-83. Wd>, ilabnt ofi' (hoi c about 011c mile. Ihc cvciihig was employed iu °"-'*'""*' killing and lalting pruviliuiis. Tiann.i had now determined to remain at Owliyhcc, as Tome-homy- h.iw h.'.d };iveii lilin a lai}',e tra.l of land in that Itlaiul, where he would live in a l\ ite of honour and llcurity, which the reigning diftra>flions and jealoufies of the government of Atooi would have denied him ; bcfides, it was n matter of no grcnt difficulty to get his wife and the rctl of his fa- mily from thtnce to his new fcttlemcnt. The weather !ia\ ing been very fqually to the Weftward for fomc days I'lW.iy 19 palT, Captain Douglas was apprehenfive of a gale of wind blowing from the Tea ; he was therefore determined to g.t under way, and go in fearch of fonie place, among the otiicr idands, where the vcflelj mir^lit lie in fafety. — la the morning, therefore, they unmoored the Ihip, but in heaving the fmall bower they found the cable had parted. — On the very inftant this difcovcry wa,i made, the King and his chiefs fecrctly quitted the (hip and paddled haflily to the fhore. — As the clinch was cut, to all appearance by dtfign, there was little doubt on whom to fix the mif- chlef : Tianna, tliereforc, was fent to inform the King of the circum- ftance, as well as the fufplcions conneiflcd with it, and tliat if the an- chor was not found, his town Hiould be blov/n about his ears. — This threat had the dcfued cffedl, for in a flioit time Tianna returned with a party of divers, who, after a repetition of the ceremonies already defcribed, leap-d into the water and difappeared. — The long- eft period which any of them remained under water was four minutes, but no anchor was to be fcen. — They were fent down a fccond time with the lame fuccefs. — At length the buoy-rope was hooked with a fmall grapnel, fo tiiat the divers had now no cxcufe whatever as to the ^'1 'I VI 'H awirtiWwir.iMiri" — 343 1788. DiciMmit. S.i!ii:''l.iy 10 VOYAGES TO THE the uncertainty where the anchor Iny ; accordingly two of them went down with a three and half inch rope, and bent it in twenty f.itlioma, as well a5 if they had been on fliorc, (o tljat this important objcia was fortunately recovered ; tlic lofj of which would have been very diftri (ling, ns they had only one bower left, and an heavy (heet-anchor, but without any cable of fuffitient ftrcngth tobiing the latter to the bows. In t!ie morning they had light breezes from the land, and as they were heaving up tlic anchor, in order to get an offing, an heavy fquail rpprariufT to bo brewing from the W'eftward, the King, accon"ipanicd by Tiauna and feveral chiefs, c.\mc on board ; but the former, when he found that we (hot out from tlie bay, thouglit it time to depart, and ac- torduigly left the Ihip, attcuilcd by upwards of an hundred canoes. r? ' ( k As fijon as they Iiad got an offing they liovc to, and the fquall clear* iiig away, Tianna's treafures were ordered to bj brought upon dick.— Thty confillicd of faws of dltkreut kinds, gimbkt5, hatchets, adzes, kniv-s and choppers, cloth of various fabrics, carpets of feveral colours, a confiderablc quantity of Clilna-ware, and ten bars of iron. — Thcfc riches, for fuch they may be truly denominated to the owner of them, were not to be trufted in one bottom; and as there yet remained about the Ihip feveral double canoes tliat carried each from forty to fifty men, his trunk was handed into one of them, t!'.e bars of iron into another, and i'o o!i, till he had no lefs than five canoes chnrg.d with his trealure, wliich was fecurcly lafned to them. — Tianna, after cntreatinjT Captain Douglas again and again to bring his family from Atooi to Owhyhec, took a mort afteflionate leave of him and t!ic whole crew, who had fo long been his conftant companions and friends ; nor were the latter with- out their emotions of regard, when they fuw the chief, whole amiable ^ilpofition and fuperior qualities liad won their fmcere eftccm through 2 the 1 I I A i' ilrtWri II iiWWH'to NORTH WnST COAST OF AMERICA. 343 the coiiiiecllon of a long and dangerous voynjre, about to be fcparated 1788. fioni tlkcm.— As TLu^na left the Hiip, accompanied In' a numerous '^'^'•t"*'*' train of Wn rcl.itiouj in their refpcflivc laiiois, Captain Douglas ordered a (alutc of fevcn guns, as a mark of cftccm to that rcfpcdablc chief, and immediately made l.iil to the North \\\ft. Tliniitfh f.VLiv.l European vcflcls have been off the ifland, yet as the IphliTLiua alone Ij.uI anchored in Karakakooi-bay, and Captain Douglas and his pioplc were tlic only European 1 who have ventured on fliore at Owhyhcc tincc tlie unfortunate death of Captain Cook, the changes which have taken place in the ifland (luce that lamentable event, as far as tluy cnmc to the knowledge of Captain Douglas, may beconlidercd, pcr- liap;!, as a matter of fufficient curiofity to juftify a curfory m'.ntion of them. Many of the chiefs whom Captain King thought proper to particiv- larize, are no more ; and among them the friendly Kaireekeca and the treacherous Koah : — but Eappo, the faitiiful Eappo, who may be remem- bered as having brought the bones of the illuftrious navigator to Captaiti Clcrkc, and who had married Tianna's lifter, was now ou board the Iphigcnii, where he had lived ever fincc her arrival off the ifland. As to t!vc r.viliitioii iii tlic government, t!ic molt accurate account, in the opinion of Captain Douglas, was as follows :— About three years after the dcatli of Captain Cook, MaihaMaiha, — for that was the name which Tome-homy-haw then bore, — had occafion to fend a mell'age to the King Tcrreeoboo, v/lio, for fome reafon which did not appear, fliouglit proper to put the mertengcr to death. — But Maiha Miiiha bc!'!^ a very powerful chief, and poil'elTing a very bold and adive dilpofit'.un, contrived to unite the greater part of thofe of his own rank 344 1788. Dkcembir. VOYAGESTOTHE f.'.nk to join with Iiim in forwarding his revenge. He, therefore, went immediately to the King, who became fo irritated by his provoking ac- cufations, as to refent the infiilt by a blow. On this a£t, which we nuift fiippofc to have been confidcred as in the higheft degree criminal in the King hlmfelf, the Chiefs of the ifland fat in jiidgnent during three days, when it was determined by their councils, tiiat I'erreeoboo Htould fiifler death. A cup of poifon, therefore, was inftantly prepared, and being given to Maiha Maiha, was prefented by him to the King, who refufed it twice ; when being informed that another and more diiho- uoutable mode of punifliment was at hand, and ohfcrvlng tliat an execu- tioner flood by his fide, in a (late of preparation to knock out his brains, the wretched Ibvereign, in an agony of defpair, drank otf the deadly draught, and in a few momi-nts fell from his feat and expired. The fame power which doomed Terrccoboo to death, deprived his fon of the royal fuccelfion, and Mailia Mniha was proclaimed King, by the name of Tome-homy-haw. — Such was the moft probable hiftory of this revolution; — though the King himfclf took no common pains to ptrfuade Captain Douglas that Terrceoboo was poifoned for having encouraged the natives to the murder of Captain Cook. Tomc-homy-haw, however, appeared to be rather an obje£V of fear than love among his fubjuclis. — As far as could be obferved, he was of a tyrannic diijofition, and poflefled few of thofo qualities which gain a foverelgn the firfl of all titles, — tl;e Father of his people. Captain Douglas mentions a circumftancc which proves at leaft, tljat if a blow from the hand or a weapon was confidered at Owhyhee as a capital offence even in the King, the fame violence from the foot was, by no means, confidered as partaking of the fame criminal nature. — Some vf .the chiefs propofing, on feeing Captain Douglas fhave himfelf, that <»>i,u>i NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 345 that the King Ihould undergo the fame operation, his Majefty thought 1788. proper to kick them all, oue after the other, not only without fear, but without mercy. ' On the 2ift the fhips made fail for Mowee, with the wind from the ^"""^"y ** South. At noon the obferved latitude was 20° 36' North, diftant from Mowee four miles. A frelh gale fpringing up from the Southward, they ran up to the head of the bay, and had regular foundings from thirteen to five fathoms of water over coral-rock, with fome fpots of fand, where they might hav« anchored with fafety to their cables, if the wind had not blown fo frefli on ftiore. They, therefore, hauled out of the bay, and fleered for tfie Weft point of the ifland. At fix in the evening, they dropped the fmall bower anchor in five fathoms and an half of water, over land and fhells, and moored with the flream anchor, half a cable each way. Xx CH APi . I 34C PiCIMaiK. V O YAG £ S TO THE II i1 V > ?:' Tuffday 30 CHAP. XXX. Jtrrive off iVoahoo.'—Receptm given by Tlteeree, Ki»j of tt^ to Captain Dou- glas.— The Jinchon of both Vejfels hove up by the Natives. — Negotiation •with the King for the Refloration of them. — S^uit IVoahoo^ and proceed to Aiooi. — Anchor in JVymoa Bay. — faheoy the Sovereign^ retires up the Country J from an Apprehenfion of Tiama^s jirrival. -—He returns, and his Alarms fubfide. — Vifits the Iphigenia. — The Dearnefs of Pro- vi/ions. — vthe fuppofedCaufes of it, — Captain Douglas cautioned of fecret Defigns againfi him.— -His Condudl thereon. — Ship and Rigging repaired. -^Proceed towards Oneeheow.'— Forced by contrary Gales to IVbahoo.—* Arrive in 'Tiroway Bay in Owhyhee. — Friendly ConduSl of l^ianna and the King. — Alliance entered into by the Princes of the neighbouring I/JandSf in Favour of the Son of Terreeoboo.-^'the AJJiftance given by Captain Douglas to the Sovereign of OwhyheCy and Tianna. — Defcription of Tiroway B ay. ■^ Large ^antity of Provljions fent by Order of Tome homy- haw, — Sltiit Owhyhee. — Difpute among the Seamen at If^ymoa Bay. — Proceed to Oneeheowfor Tatns. — ^«/V the Sandwich Jflandsy to return to the North IVefl Coajl of America) NO material occurrence took place from the 2xft, but an attempt of the natives to cut the cable while the Iphigenia was at anchor otFthe Ifland of Mowce, for which one of them received a very fevere correc- tion.— They had continued, for feveral days, to beat about in fearch of a good anchoring place ; and on the 30th, they worked round tlie South Eaft end of the Ifland of Woahoo, and at eight in the evening were 2 clofe NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. clofein with a large bay.— The followhig day at noon, on finding that the current fct them down towards a (hoal, which the fea broke over with great force, they made fail and puflied out from theland, when they had five, four, and three and an half fathoms of water, about four miles from the fhore. At four in the afternoon they tacked and flood in, to try for anchorage ; but the wind blowing too frefli on land, and a number of flioals and banks being under their lee, they were obliged to put about. Having flood off till four in the morning, the wind drew round to the Eaftward, and brought clear, moderate weather. They were now in- formed by the natives that Titeeree, the King, lived on the Eaft-fide of the bay. — The jolly-boat was, therefore, fent to found oppofite a fandy bay, while the Iphigenia flood off under an eafy fail. At noon the jolly-boat made figiial for anchorage, when they accordingly run in and dropped the ftream anchor in eleven fathoms of water, over fand and fliells, at the diftance of about three miles from a village, and two from an high bluff land on the Eaftern fide of the bay. The two extreme points which form this large bay, bearing from Weft half North, to Eaft South Eaft. It is called by the natives Witetee, and the only good anchorage appears to be on the Eaftern fide : while the trade-wind blows, a veffclmay ride in fafety ; but if the wind varies to the South Eaft or Weft, it then becomes dangerous, on account of the number of ftioals and banks which it contains. After they had dropped anchor. Captain Douglas difpatched a pre- fent to the King, accompanied with an invitation to fee him on board, and at four in the afternoon he paid a vifit to the Iphigenia. The fo- vereign of Woahoo was faluted with the difcharge of five guns on his arrival on board, and a fecond prcfcnt of adzes, choppers and knives was X X a offered 347 1788. DeC(MII(II. Wediieldiiyj 1 Januarv. Tluiilday I i f 1 H (1 34? VOYAGES TO THE 1789. offered to him; when he readily promifed that the taboo fliould be Janua»t. (jjjgjj off the hogs, as far as it related to them, and that thyr ftiould be plentifully fupplied from the iflands of Mowee, Ranai, Morotoi and Woahoo. I-riday 1 In the morning the King repeated his vifit, bringing a prefent of hogs, taro-root and potatoes, with a turtle, and fome fifli of the trout kind. — Early in the afternoon he went on fliore, and foon after Captain Douglas followed him in the jolly-boat. He was received very cordially by Titeeree, who took him round the village, (hewed him feveral plantations, and conducted him to fome large ponds, which appeared to be full of filh. — He mentioned alfo fome others where he had a quantity of turtle, and promif^ to bring one on board the next day. < rV Saturday 3 The next morning Titeeree vifited the fhip, with a prefent of a turtle and fome hogs. — About ten o'clock a double canoe, fchooner rigged, came round the Eaft point of the bay. The natives were deceived as well as the people in the (hip ; for they all imagined it to be the North Weft America, which had not been fecn for fome days, till the canoe came within a fhort diftance. She had got jib, main-fail and fore-fail as well as thofe of the fchooner. v.\ On the loth they were joined by Captain Funtcr, who had been beat- ing off the Weft point of the ifland for feveral days paft, without being able to join the Iphigenia. Nothing of material occurrence took place during the time which the veflels remained at Woahoo, except the lofs of both their anchors ; which Titeeree, who, in every other refpecfl, behaved with the greatcft kiudnefs, contrived, though it blew a gale of wind, to heave up and get ■VORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA, ^^^ get a-fliore, with their cables. As this was a lofs of the utmoft con- 1789. fequence, and, fituated as they were, would have prevented their future J*'-'^^*"^^- progrefs, it became abfolutcly neceflary to be very fcrious iu their en- deavours to recover them. The King did not attempt to hldi the theft ; and the people whom Captain Douglas fent to him to demand the reftoration of the anchors and cables, faw them lying in his houf>. — Indeed, they feem to have been taken with no other view than to com- pel Captain Douglas to leave fome of his armourers at \Vo;i!u)o, as the condition of their being reftored. However, the anchors, &c. were re- gained, on prefenting the King with a piftol, a mufqutt, and a fmalt quantity of ammunition ; accompanied alfo with I'ome very neceffiry menaces, tliat if he did not rcftore the articles he had taken, his town fhould be laid in afhes. After having laid in fuch a ftock of provifions as it was in their power Sundayjj to purchafe, and having filled fome calks with water, at half paft five in the afternoon of the 2jth, the two Vcfiels got under way, and flood out of the bay. At noon of the following d iy, the obferved latitude was 21° 23' North ; and the extremities of Wo.ihoo bore from Eaft by South, to North Weft by North, diftant from fliore about four miles. . , ■ ■ ( fA I" At two in the afternoon of the 26t!i, t!iey law the ifland of Atooi, . Monday a» bearing Weft by North half Nottli ; and in tlie courfc of the night had aftrong current fctting againft them, with t'ne wind from the Weftward. At noon of the 29th, they dropped anchor in Wymoa Bay, in twenty- """ J''' three fathoms of water, over a muddy bottom: — Tlie two extreme points which form the bay, bearing from Eaft South E;ift, to Weft North Weft. The Morai on ftiorc, bore North Eaft half North. Oa ^^^1 1789. jAKVARr. VOYAGES TO THE On the arrival of the Iphigenia and the North Weft America ofFthe ifland, Taheo, the King, and all the chiefs, had gone to a confidcrable diftance up the country, dreading the efFedls of Tianna's anger, who, they had been informed, was on board one of the veflels, and had tabooed every thing on (hore : but as it was underftood that the chief, whofe vengeance was fo much dreaded, had been left at Owhyhee, meflisngers were immediately fent after Taheo, who in confequence of this inf jr- ination, returned in about three days to Wymoa ; and on his arri\''al, fcveral canoes were fent off" with hogs, potatoes and yams, for which a moft exorbitant price was demanded. A couple of hatchets, or eighteen inches of bar iron, was expefted even for an hog but of a middle fue. This exorbitant difpofition arofe principally from the fuggeftions of a boy, whofe name was Samuel Hitchcock, who had run away from Cap- tain Colnett, and was become a great favourite with Taheo himfelf.— i Indeed, fo great was ftis influence with the King, that one of the na- tives having ftolen from him a fmall piece of cloth which he wore rvvjnd his middle, Taheo ordered the culprit to be purfued to the mountaint., whither he had fled, and when the wretched creature was taken, both his eyes were torn from their fockets, a pahoowas then driven through his heart, and his flelh ftripped from the bones, as a bait for fharks. But though Taheo returned to Wymoa, he was by no means without apprehenfions as to his fafety ; nor would he accept of Captain Douglas's invitation to come on board the Iphigenia ; feigning, as an cxcufe, that he had been ill ufed by the crew of a (hip fome time before. This alarm, indeed, in a fliort time fubflded, and he paid his occafional vifits to the ihip, and a friendly communication, at leaft to all appearance, took place between the natives and their European vifitors. At ■W . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. At the fame time, it was hinted to Captain Douglas to be continually on his guard againft the defigns of the King, and of Ablnui his minifter; and he was alfo informed of a poifonous root well known to the inha- bitants of the Sandwich Ifl.inds, which when ground to powtkr, might be eafily fcattcred about the fliip, or thrown upon their cloaths, without being obfcrved, and whofe power is of fuch a deadly nature, that if the fmalleft quantity of it (hould be inhaled by the mouth or the noftrils, the confequcnce is immediate death. Captain Douglas, therefore, though he did not very much fufped any murderous intention in Tahco, or his people, thought it a prudent precaution, at all events, to make known his intention, if any attempt was made to poifon any of the provifions fold to them, that he would not leave a native alive whom he fliould find within his reach. 35^ 1789. Januahv. But though tlie quantity of hogs and roots which they could obtain at Atooi, were by no means equal to their expeftations, or fometimes- even to their Immediate neceflities, opportunities were taken of doing, condderable fervice, by making fuch repairs in the fails, cordage, and other articles, which were eflentially neceflliry to the condition of both- the veffels. It was therefore determined to proceed to Oneeheow ; and^ as Namltahaw, with fix of his relations, and four women, exprefled their wiflies to accompany Tlanna's wife and child to Owhyhee, he took them- all on board, in the expedatlon that they would be of very great fervice to him in procuring fuch provifions as he wanted, in the ifland he was - proceeding to vifit. ,',,rt M At two in the afternoon of Wednefday, the i8th of February, both Wednefdayit veffels got under way; and at fun-fetting, Wymoa Bay boreNortli Eaft. . At noon of the following day, the South Weft end of Oneeheow bore Thurfdayi? Weft, at the diftaQce of one mile. But ftrong gales coming on from thef i .i I' .1- 35^ VOYAGES TO THE 1789. the Nortli Weft, aiul finding that they drove a confiderablc way to the FlBKI'AKV, Soutlnvard and Eaftward of Oneeheow and Atooi, and there being every appcnrnncc that the wind would continue to the Wcftward, Captain Douglas di tcrmined to run over toWoahoo, in order to get a frefli fupply ofprovifions, as tluy had killed their laft hog. Accordingly on Saturday Sjiiiiu'.ay»i the 2 1 ft, at four in the afternoon, a fredi gale fpringlng up from North North VVcfl:, they bore away for VV'oahoo. At noon on the following day, they part the Weftern point of Witetee Bay, the foundings being from fourteen to three fathoms of water, and diftant five or fix miles from the fliore. Captain Douglas obferves that this flioal runs out further than any he had encountered among thefe ifl;inds, and that it lies in the latitude of 21° 22' North, and the longitude of 202' i j' Eaft of Greenwich. Sunday i: i'l (.'J: n M / Monday ij I" the moniing of the 23d, they came to their former anchoring ground ; and at nine, Titecree came on board, and fome of the paflbn- gcrs having informed him of the price paid for provifions at Atooi, he was difpofed to Imitate the exorbitant demands of the neighbouring ifland; and no inconfiderable quantity of powder and (hot, for thofe were now become the favourite articles, was demanded for a fingle hog ; fo that very peremptory methods wert obliged to be employed in order to procure the neceflary fupplics. TiiefJay 24 A fre(h breeze fpringlng up from the Weftward about noon, on the 24th, Captain Douglas embraced the favourable occafion to get over to Owhyhee, where he hoped to find greater plenty, and more rea- fonable demands. i At noon on the 2d of March, Owhyhee bore from North half Weft, to South Eaft by South, diftant from tha fhore about two leagues ; and very NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 353 1789. Mariii. MonJay i very ftiortly after Tianna came on board from a part uf the idand called Toee-Hye, — and when he had indulged himfelf for fome time in the oppreflfive joy of yearning nature at the light of his wife and child, he condu£ted the (hip into a bay called by the natives Tiroway ; and at four in the afternoon, they anchored in fixteen fathoms of water, over a fine fand, the two extreme points bearing from South South Eaft half Eaft, diflant from the fhore about a mile and an half. In the evening, by the provident care of Tianna, they received a conft-i denible quantity of refreflimcnts. Early in the morning the jolly-boat was fent to found the bay, when good ground was found all acrofs it, from fourteen to twenty-two fathoms of water, over a fine brown Tuefday j fand. The King having been on a fiftiing party, he did not arrive till four in the afternoon ; when he came, accompanied by his Queen and daughter, in two difpatch boats, having quitted his heavy canoes and attendants. He appeared to be overjoyed at their return, — expreffed his hopes that Tianna had paid them all proper attention in his abfence, and alTured them that his power in the ifland, and all he himfelf poflefled in it, was at their command. Indeed, the quantity of provifions with which he caufed them to be furniflied, and his anxious endeavours to forward the wi(hes of Captain Douglas in every thing, proved, beyond a doubt, the fincerity of his profeffions. The next day at an early hour. Tome-homy -liaw, Tianna, and feveral other chiefs, came on board the Ipliigenia, and foon after the whole com- pany were difmifTed by the King, except Tianna ; and having thrown a feathered cloak over Captain Douglas, the chief, in the name of the fove- reign and himfelf, began to unfold the fecrets of their political fituatlon. Yy He Wednffdjy ^ SSA- Vv<. 1 1 1789. Makch. V O Y AGES TO THE He flated that Taheo, king of Atooi, and Titeeree, the fovereign of Mowee, Ranai, Morotoi, and Woahoo, had entered into a compadt with Terrecmoweerce, the furviving fon of Terreeoboo, who lived on the wcather-fide of the ifland, to difpoiTefs Totne-homy-haw of his rank and power, for no otlier reafon but becaufe he had permitted Tianna to fix his fettlcment at Owhyhee: — That Taheo had been furnifhed by the Captains Portlock, Dixon, &c. with a quantity of arrns and am- munition, on an exprefs condition that he would not af? ord any fup- plies whatever to Captain Meares and his aflbciates ;— f< r the truth of which information, he appealed to the reception whi( h that gen- tleman had lately found on ptitting into the ifland of ^tooi, where he could not obtain any refreftiment of any kind : — And Tianna, with tears in his eyes, and the mofl affedlingexprefTions, declared his apprehen- fions of the diilrefs which Captain Meares and his crew muft have fuf- fered from the want of provifions before he reached Macao, if he fhould have been able, by any means, to have compleated his voyage to China. The fpeech, which was of confiderable length, concluded with entreat- ing Captain Douglas to leave two of his men behind him, till his return from America, together with a fwivel gun, his own fowling- piece, and whatever other arms and ammunition could be fpared by him. The preparations which Captain Douglas had feen at the other iflands, and the great demand he had experienced for powder, fliot and muf- quets, induced him to give fome credit to the fcheme which Tianna had jufl: mentioned : he, therefore, complied with that part of the requeft which related to the fire-arms, and immediately ordered the carpenter on fhore, to form a flage on one of the largeft double canoes, to receive the fwivel. "■■ . ,;.. •' . - ■ : ,. •• ' " • In >% NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 355 In the afternoon of the following day, the carpenter having finiflied 1789. the canoe, {he was brought along- fide the Iphigenia, when the gun TimrMryi was mounted ; but it was with great difficulty that the King could pre- vail on his people to keep their paddles in their hands while he difcharged the piece. At fix in the morning, the wind being from the Southward and Eaft- ^'''^*f * ward, a fignal was made for the King to come on board, when they got under way, fleering for the bay of Toee-Hye. The King was accompa- " nied by his Queen, Tianna and other principal chiefs, while thofc of an inferior rank attended the fhip in a fleet of thirty canoes. Tiroway- Bay, which they now quitted, is fuperior in many refpe£ls to that of Karakakooa, the ground being extremely good, with not a fpot of coral rock in any part of it : befides, velTcls may lie at fuch a diftance from the fhore, that if the wind blows, they can clear the land with fafety. The latitude of the (hip at anchor was 19° 4' North. At half pad five in the afternoon, the beft bower anchor was dropped in ten fathoms of water, oppofite the village of Toee-Hye, the two extreme points of this large bay bearing from South Weft by South, to North Weft by North, diftant from the fhore three miles. W I ftl In the evening, the King and his company went on fliore ; and on the SatinJayj following morning fent off a prefent of thirty hogs, a quantity of fait, cocoa-nuts, potatoes, and taro. As the trade-wind was now blowing frefli, Captain Douglas requefted that he might, if poflible, be favoured with immediate fupplies, as he was in hafte to fail for America.-— Tome-homy-haw, therefore, difpatched meffengers up the country, with orders for every one wlio had an hog to bring it immediately to the vil- lage, on pain of death : and at ten the next morning, he himfelf came sumUys oiFwith a prefent of fifty hogs, fome of which weighed fifteen ftone. — Y V 2 In .'1 ■; fj« ) 1 t ;(^-i 1789. Maach. Munday 9 Thiirrday 11 Friday ij Saturday 14 VOYAGES TO THE In the courfe of the day other ueceflary articles were fent on board ; and amongd other things were twelve geefe. It may be a matter of curiofity to mention that, at the fame time, a boat came into the bay with a cock and hen turkey. Thcfe animals were going round to breed at the village of Wipeco. The hen, we were told, had already fat twice, in different parts of the ifland, and reared her broods to the num- ber of twenty ; fa that in a few years there will be a great abundance of tliat fpecies of fowl in thefe iflands. In the evening C.iptaiii Douglas, after prefenting fome fire-arms and ammunition tu tlic King and Tianna, took his leave of them ; and at midnight they gut under wny. Their latitude at noon, on the next day, was 30" 2 1' North. They now proceeded to Woahoo, where having got a conilderable quantity of wood, and made fome addition to the flock of taro and fugar-cane, they continued their courfe to Atooi : and in the evening of the 12th came to an anchor about two miles to the Eaftward of the anchoring-ground. At day-light on the 13th, they got the boats out, and towed the (hip into her former birth. Taheo and the other principal chiefs were gone to Punna, and Abinui was the only perfon of confequence remaining at Wymoa, who fent a prefent of an hog on board, but did not think proper to accompany it. In the morning, the long-boat was fent on fhore for water, when the men on duty got to quarrelling with fo much violence, as to draw their knives againft each other ; and when Mr. Viana attempted to part them^ a feaman, of the name of Jones, threatened to knock him down. As fuch a difturbance, if not checked in time, might have been attended with confequences that would prove fatal to the voyage. Captain Doug- las ordered Jones to immediate punifliment ; to which, with the moft horrid execrations, he refufed to fubmit, and run for the fore-top, in c\- pedatioii J*'V NORTH WEST COAST OF AaIERICA. 3^7 pe£latioff o^ meeting with the blunderbufles which were generally kept 1789. there primed and tondcd, in cal'c of an attack from the natives, but was prevented from gaining his obje£l by Captain Douglas, who fired a piftol over his head, and thrratened him with a fecond difcharge if he pro- ceeded another ftep. But u, it was very evident that feveral of the (hip's crew were difpofed to fupport him, he was ordered either to deliver himfelf up to punifhment, or iuAantly to leave the (hip ; which he did without the lead hefitation, and tranquiUity was immediately reftored. Having compleated their watering, at five in the afternoon they got under way for Oneeheow, in order to obtain a fupply of yams. But being prevented by adverfe winds, and a current running (Irong from the Northward, to make Yam Bay, they were forced, lu nvoid being driven to the leeward, to bear up for the other bay ; and in the afternoou of the following day, they dropped anchor in thirteen fathoms of water ; hnit) 1} the bearings of the two points being from South by Eaft, to North by Ead ; the fmall ifland of Tahoora bore at the fame time. South South Weft half Weft, diftant from the (hore one mile and an half. In the evening. Captain Douglas being informed of adefign agitated by feveral ' of the feamen to go off with, the jolly-boat, gave orders to tlie officers to keep a ftricH: watch ; neverthelefs, during the night, the quarter- mafter and two of the failors had got on (hore in fome of the canoes that were along-fide. They had formed a plan to get off with the boat, and at the fame time to fct fire to the (hip ; but being prevented in their diabolical enterprife, they had taken an opportunity toefcape to the ifland. Two of them, however, by the adlive zeal of honeft Friday, a native of Oneeheow, who has already been mentioned in thefe pages with the efteem he fo well deferves, were (hortly brought back to the fliip ; but the quarter-mafter, who was the ringleader ki the mtfchief, •< J could '* /I t, ll "I'i Mill 358 1789. March. , ? V O Y AG E S T O T H E could not be brought offot) account of the furf, and was therefore left behind : for fuch was the fltuation of both veffels, being in want of many neceflary articles, — the North Weft America having alfo loft her an- chor,— that though, according to his inftru£lions, Captain Douglas was to have proceeded to the Northward, he was under the neceflity of difobeying them, and proceeding immediately to the Coaft of Ame- rica, where he had every reafon to hope he ftiould meet with a (hip from China. The Iphigenia and the Schooner had now been near four months among thefe iflands ; and it is to the honour of Captain Douglas, that he condutSled himfelf with that prudent attention to circumftances, as to have avoided any ferious difpute with the natives of any of them. CHAP. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XXXI. 359 1789. Makch. ^4 V *thty leave Oneebeow, and proceed on their Return to the North Wejl Coaji of America. —Pafs Bird IJland. — Particular Circumjlance refpedling the Coni' pafs. — The Arrival of the Iphigenia and the NoKraWzsT America^/ Nootka Sound. — The latter difpatched on a Trading f^oj/age, and the Rca/lns of it. — The Arrival of a Spanijl) Ship. — The Conduct of the SpaniJJj Com- mander. — Seizure of the Ipiiigenia, tic. — She is obliged to leave Nootka Soundf and proceeds to the Northward. — Trade with the Natives of the Coafl. — Anchor off a Village named Fort Pitt. — Defer ipt ion of BuccleugVs Sound. — Anchor in Haines's Cove. — A War threatened between two tribes of Natives.— -The Means employed to prevent it. — An Account of Mac Intire's Bay. ^Examine Cox's Channel.— A Dejign formed by the Natives to get Pojejfion of the Ship. — Difcovered to Captain Douglas by the ,'Vomen. — Friendly ConduSl of a Chief named Blakow. — All the Bar-Iron ex- pended. — Pafs Cox's Channel. — Trade with the Natives of Tatanee. — ^it the Coajl of America. — Return to the Sandwich IJlands. — Forlu- nale Ffcape from a Defgn of the King and Chiefs of Owhyhee on Captain Douglas and his People^ tSc. — Tou>:h at the different Iflands for ProvifonSf &c. — Proceed on their Voyage to China. — Arrive off MacaOf tic. T T A V I N G got about a month*s (lore of yams, the two vcffels ftft fail ; and having loft fight of the ifland of Oneeheow on the i8th, they proceeded in company to the North Weft, with the wind Wedr.fdayis from North North Eaft. At three the next morning, land was fsen a-head ; and at four, being almoft clofe up with it, they hove to till day-light. Thi 19 ^1 >^f 360 1789. ArftiL. V O YAG E S T O T H E This ifland or rock, bears the form of a faddle, high at each end, and low in the middle. To the South it is covered with verdure ; but on the North, Weft and Eaft fides, it is a barren rock, perpendicu- larly fteep, and did not appear to be acceffible but to the feathered race, with which it abounds. It was therefore named Bird Ifland. It lies in the latitude of 23° 07' North, and in the longitude of 198' 10' Eaft, by a medium of feveral obferved diftances of the fun aAd moon. T i m m I'll m Nothing very material took place during the voyage of the Iphi- genia and North Weft America back to Nootka Sound. They both fufFered thofc inconvenicncies which may be fuppofed to arife from the fcanty ftore of many articles ncceflary for the comfort and navigation of a (hip. — It may be proper, however, to mention, that in the beginning of April, for two or three days together, it became impoflible to fteer the fliip, the compares flying about each way four or five points in a moment. — Captain Douglas remarks, that he experienced the fame phaenomenon laft year about the fame latitude. The latitude at this time was from 36° 19' to 26" 10' North, and the longitude from 208' 15' to 210° 13'. The whole tranfaftions concerning the Iphigenia, after her arrival at Nootka Sound, with the condud of the Spanifti commander, which have formed a fubjeft of difpute between the Crowns of Great Britain and Spain, are ftated at large in the Memorial prefented by me to the Houfe of Commons ; — I muft therefore refer the reader to the Appendix of this volume, where he will find the Memorial, with various other papers, explanatory of the mercantile plans and operations of the Afibciated Company for carrying on a Trade between China and the North Weft Coaft of America. The 1 [)i B.S.., ■Jl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 361 The Iphigenia being permitted by the Spanifli commodore to depart, 1789. they quitted Friendly Cove, as is feen in the J^Iemorial, and continued wedncfday j their courfe to the Northward, with the wind at South Eaft. — At fun- fet on the 4th, the Southern extremity of Charlotte's Iflands bore Thurraay + from Weft North Weft, to Weft by South, diftant two leagues.— At noon the next day the weather was thick and foggy.— The latitude by V'^^'V s account was 5*" 33' North ; longitude 228" 2/ Eaft. n'l In the morning of the 6th the fog cleared away, and there were a great number of fea-otters playing round the (hip. — At eleven they faw a fmall barren ifland.— At noon the latitude by account was 54" 7' North, and the longitude 229° 9' Eaft. — At three in the afternoon, the current having fet them to leeward, and out of fight of the ifland, and being furrounded with a number of fmall iflets and rocks, they bore up to look out for fotpe place of Ihelter before night. — At fi/e they palled between a low ifland and the main land.— At ten it fell calm, and the current iet them down to a fmall ifl.uid, and no foundings to be obtained with eighty fathoms of line ; the boats were therefore hoifted out, and the fhip towed cle^r of the ifland, into 26 fathoms water, when they dropped the Aream anchor over a muddy ground. Sltiirdav fi f ! the At break of day it was low water, when a ledge of rocks was feen above water, within lefs than a cable's length of the fhip : a breeze fpring- iug up, they weighed anchor and worked out of the found. At eleven the wind dying away, the ftream anchor was dropped in fifty- five fa- thoms water, at the entrance of the found. At.noou a breeze fprungup from the South Eaft, when they weighed and flood to the South Weft. The latitude by observation was 54" 45' North, and the longitude 229° 15' Eaft. .-. -> ,„ - . . ,;. . J. . Z 7/ • ' ■ U^oil Biaalv u! iki -The Sunday | i'l ;' i 1789. 362 VOYAGESTOTHE The weather was now become fair and moderate ; and the early part of the afternoon, on observing a canoe paddling towards the fhip, they (hortcned fail, and purchafed three cotfacks of the fca-otter's (kin.^The natives made Captain Etouglas underftand that there were more nickees at a village to which they pointed. — He therefore wore, and flood to the I North Eaft, in company with the canoe ; and at fix dropped the ftream anchor In thirty-five fathoms water, oppofite a village which ikunds upon an high rock, and has the appearance of a fort. This place, which is in the < latitude of 54° 58', longitude 229° 43' Eafl, Captain Douglas named Fort Pitt. They bought feveral otter- fkins of the natives ; but in the morn. Monday ( ing, there being no figus of any further traffic, they weighed anchor and flood to the Weflward. — At noon the obferved latitude was 54" 46^ and the longitude 229° 12' Eaft^ In this targe found, which was now named Bucckugh^s Sound, there are feveral arms, and branches, ibme of which take an Eaflerly direAioir, and run as^ fiiras the eye could reach; one or two others took a Northern ly direction, and, in the opinion of Captain Douglas, communicate with Port Meares and Sea Otter Sound. — The two capes, which form Buccleugh's Sound, were named Cape Farmer and Cape Murray.— The former, which is the Southernmofl, lies in the latitude of 54° 35' North, longitude 229" 16' Eafl ; and the latitude of the latter is 54° 43' North, and its longitude 228° 10' Eafl. — A lowifland, covered with trees, about three leagues ia cIrcumfeEeuce,. which they pafled the day before, and lies ofifCape Farmer, was named Petries Ifland. — It is m the latitude of 54° 42', and in the longitude o£ 229° 20'.— >An high mountain on th< Weft fide of the found, where they perceived the appearance of a village with their glai&s, was called Mount Saint Lazaro. — It lies in the latitude of 54" 52' North; longitude 2:8° 56' Eaft. At eleven at night they made fail to clear a fmall rocky ifland that lies off Cape Murray. At NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. At noon the next day the entrance of Port Meares bore Weft by North, but having only the nine inch cable which was got from the Spaniards, Captain Douglas did not think it prudent to bring up there, on account of its expofure to the South Eaft winds ; but having, at this time a lead- ing breeze, they fteered right up the found, palling feven or eight iflands which lie in the middle of it. — In the afternoon the long-boat was ordered out, and an officer fent to found and difcover fome place of Hielter.— -In about three hours he returned, having found out a fine cove, about four miles higher up the found ; and at feven in the evening they dropped the bower anchor in fifteen fathoms water, over fund and fhells, about half a mile from the larboard fhore, and at twice that diftance from the ftarboard (hore. 3^3 1789. Tucfday t ■ ii Captain Douglas reprefents this harbour as by much the beft he had feen on the coaft of America. — ^The entrance of it is not more than half a mile from ihore to fhore, off which an ifland is fituated of about a mile in circumference ; fo that a velTel may lay there in a ftate of fecurity from all winds. — ^At the bottom of this cove, which is about two miles from the entrance, there is a very fine beach, and in the middle of it there is alfo a fmall ifland, round which the tide flows :— It was named Haines*s Cove, and is in the latitude of 54° 57' North, and longitude itt" 3' Eaft. -Mtn-. .; Fiidiy ijf •lil At Several fucceeding days were employed in purchafing furs, fifli, and oil, and making fome neceflary repairs to the (hip and rigging : — Nor did any thing material happen till the afternoon of the 17th, when the vvcdncfdayiji chiefs of the two villages, on different fides of the cove, having had fome difagreement, they prepared for war, and a very bloody conflid, to all appearance, was prevented, by the interpofition of the women, which, after a very loud and angry debate, that lafted upwards of an hour, pro- Z z 2 duced '' f ...■n-'L; 5*4 1789. JVKf. Friday 19 VOYAGES TO THE duccd a reconciliation betweeen the hoftile parties.— Oife of the chiefs, attended by his canoes, paddled round the Ipbigenia, and chaunted a fong as an acknowledgment to Captain Douglas, that he had not taken part in the difpute ; while the other party were received at the village of their tribe, by the women and children, with the tuneAil acclan»ations of wel- come or of triumph. At eight o'clock, on the moniing of the 19th, a breeze fprioging up from the South Wefl, they weighed anchor, and made fail out of the cove. — At noon, the extremes of the land, from Cape Murray, which forms Port Meares, bore North Eaft by Eaft, to an high bluff, which was now named Cape Irving : — ^The latter lies in the latitude of 54" 49' North, and the longitude 227° 4/ Eaft. — The two capes, bearing about Eaft and Weft from each other. — ^The North Weft point of Charlotte's Iflands alfo bore South by Weft half Weft, diftant twelve or fourteen leagues. The weather was moderate and cloudy, with the wind from the South Weft. — At fun-fet, there being the appearance of an inlet, which bore South South Weft, they ftood acrofs a deep bay, when they lisd irregu- lar foundings, from twenty- fix to eleven fathoms water, at the diftince of two leagues from the fliore ; — the wind dying away they dropped the ftream-anchor, the two points which form tlie bay, hearing from Weft, one quarter North, to North Eaft half Eaft, diftant from the Ihore four miles. It was now named M' Intire's Bay, and lies in the latitude of ^3» 58' North, and longitude 228" 6' Eaft. :l\ 'amrday >o I" tHe morning of the 20th, the long-boat was difpatched to the head of the bay, to difcover if there was any paifage up the inlet; — and the account received on her return was, that toward the head of the I' .i ■ — .'*^«-v^yil i NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. bay a bar run acrofs, on which the long-boat got a-ground ; but that within it there was the appearance of a large found. Several canoes now came along-Hde the fliip, and having purchafed their ftock of furs. Captain Douglas got under way to look into an inlet which he hac^ obferved the preceding year. — Al noon it was exceeding hazy, and no obfervation was made. . , > .KiPfi v j p'^ j " ''' • Early in the afternoon the long-boat -was fent, well manned and armed, to examine the inlet and found for anchorage ; and foon after, twelve canoes being feen making their way towards her, while feveral others were coming off to the (hip. Captain Douglas made fail after the long-boat* which had already made a fignal for anchorage. — At five o'clock they dropped the bower anchor in twenty-five fathoms water, about four miles from the fliore, and two from a fmall barren, rocky ifland, which happened to prove the refidence of a chief, named Blakow-Coneehaw, whom Captain. Douglas had feen on the coaft in his laft voyage. — He came immediately on board, and welcomed the arrival of the (hip with a fong, to which two hundred of his people formed a chorus of the moft Jjleafing melody— —When the voices ceafed, he paid Captain Douglas the compliment of exchanging names with him, after the manner of the chiefs of the Sandwich Iflands. 365 1788. JUNR. At feven In the morning they flood up the inlet, and at nine came to in eighteen fathoms water, when they moored the (hip with the ftream-anchor. Through this channel, which is formed by Charlotte's Iflands, and an ifland that lies off the Weft end of it, the tide was found to run very rapid. The paflage takes its courfe Eaft and Weft, {tbout ten or twelve miles, and forms a commAHiication with the open fea- — It was now named Cox's Channel — Very foon after the fliip was moored, the long-boat was fent to found in the mid-channel, but no foundings Sunday at k ill h r I'. »i 'it "> 'i' ;..• •m 1789. Junk. 36^ VOYACESTOTHE foundings could be obtained with eighty fathoms of line ; but near the rocks, on the (larboard (hore, they had twenty and thirty fathoms water. i>r.i\ ■ ' ■ Having been vifited the preceding night by two canoes, which lay on tlieir paddles, and dropped down with the tide, as was fuppofed, inex- peftation of finding us all aflecp, they were defired to keep off, and finding themfelves difcovcred they made haftily for the (hore. As no orders had been given to (ire at any boat, however fufpicious its appear- ance might be, thefe people were fufFered to retreat without being inter- rupted. — This night, however, there happened to be feveral women on board, and they gave Captain Douglas to underftand, that if he or his crew (hould fall afleep, all their heads would be cut off, as a plan had been formed by a condderable number of the natives, as foon as the lights were out, to make an attempt upon the (hip.— The gunner therefore re- ceived his inftrudions, in confequence of this information, and foon after the lights were extingui(hed, on feeing a canoe coming out from among the rocks, he gave the alarm, and fired a gun over her, which was accom- panied by the difcharge of feveral mu(kets, which drove her back again with the utmoft precipation. Monday i» In the morning the old chief, Blakow Coneehaw, made a long fpeech ' from the beach ; and the long-boat going on (hore for wood, there were upwards of forty men iflued from behind a rock, and held up a thimble and fome other trifling things, which they had ftolen from the (hip ;— but when they found that the party did not intend to moleft them, they gave a very ready and aftive afllftance in cutting wood, and bringing the water-calks down to the boat.— Some time after the chief came on board, arrayed, as may be fuppofed, in a fa(hion of extraordinary cere- mony, having four (kins of the ermine hanging from each ear, and one ■\ 3 from .^'' '-f^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. from his nofc ; when, after Captain Douglas had explained to him the rcafon of their firing the preceding night, he firft made a long fpeech to his own people, and then aflured him that the attempt which had been made, was by fome of the tribe who inhabited the oppofite (hore; and entreated, if they (hould repeat their no£lurnal viCit, that they might be killed as they deferved.— He added, that he had left his houle, in order to live along-fide the fhip, for the purpofe of its proteftion, and that he himfelf had commanded the women to give that information which they had communicated. — ^This old man exercifed the moft friendly fervices in his power to Captain Douglas, and poflefled a degree of authority over his tribe, very fuperior to that of any other chief whom they had fcen on the Coaft of America. ,, ., . 367 1788. JVM. 41^ In the afternoon Captain Douglas took the long-boat and ran acrofs the channel, to an illand which lay between the (hip and the village of Tatanee, and invited the chief to be of the party ; who, having feen him pull up the wild parfley and eat it, he was fo attentive as to order a large quantity of it, with fome falmon, to be fent on board every morning. j.» ^ki!' ■Ill m!;,i',it *>ill yr'''»ii.l» At fix o'clock in the morning of the i^d, finding the ground to be bad, Tuefdiy »$ they ran acrofs the chaimel to a fmall harbour^ which is named Beal's Harbour, on the Tartanee fide ; and at ten dropped anchor in nineteetr fathoms water, about half a cable's length from the ihore ; the land locked all, round, and the great wooden images of Tartanee bore Eaft,. one quarter North; the village on the oppofite (hor? bearing South half Weft. — ^This harbour is in the latitude of 54° 18' North, and longitude ^iz^*'^' JEaft.— It was high water there at the change, twenty minutes paft midnight ; and the tide flows from th« ^eftward^ fixtcen feet per- pendi- * >r-/-t i *ii I 3«t VOYAGES TO THE ijS^* pendtcular.->The night tides were higher, by two feet, than thofe of *""• the day. The three following days were employed in purchafing (kins, and pre- paring to depart ; but as all the flock of iron was exp'-nd d they were under the neceflity of cutting up the hatch-bars and chain- plates. Saturday 17 Qn the momiiig of the 27ih, as foon as the chief returned, who had gone on (hore the preceding evening, to get a frilh fupply of provifinns. Captain Douglas gave orders to unmoor, and a breeze fpringing up, at half pad nine they got under way, and ftecred through Cox's channel, with feveral canowS in tow.— hand Lafons, and whatever articles of a iimilar nature could be procured, either from the officers or the men ; but they refufed to take any more of the chain-plates, as the iron of which they were made proved fo brittle that it broke in their ma- nufadluring of it.— -The lofs of the iron and other articles of trade, which had been taken out of the (hirt by the Spaniards, was now very feverely felt, as the natives carried back no fmall quantity of furs, which Captain Douglas had not the means of purchafing. ' >iT:'i jiu't Sit t^,n-iair lyiaut , i^ . . . This tribe is very numerous ; and the village erf Tartanee ftands on a very fine fpot of ground, round which was fome appearance of cultiva- tion ; and in one place in particular it was evident 'that feed had been lately fowq.— In all probability Captain Gray, in the floop Wafhington, had fallen in with this tribe, and employed his conliderate friendfhip in fbrming this garden ; but this is mere matter df conjeAure, as the real -fad could not be learned from the natives. From the fame benevolent fpirit ■i.'3i» ^^' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERT A. fpirit Captain Douglas liimfclf planted fome bcnns, and g>..e the natives a quantity for the fame ufeful purpofc ; and there is little doubt but that excellent and wholcfomc vegetable, at this time, forms an article of luxury in the village of Tatancc. This people, indeed, were fo fond of the cookery pratflifed on board the Iphigenia, that they very frequently refufed to traffic with their fkiiis, till thty had been taken down to the cabhi, and regaled with a previous entertainment. The weather had been fo thick and hazy, fince they had quitted Noot- ka Sound, that it was impoflible to get a fight of the moon or ftars for the purpofe of making an obfervation ; Captain Douglas, tlicrcfore, was under the neceffity of reducing the longitude of the dilTercnt places which he vifited, from the obfervations he had made during his voyage of the preceding year. 3h 1739. JVN«, '\\ 1 The Iphigenia now proceeded on her way to the Sandwich Iflands, and without the intervention of any occurrence that merits a particular relation ; — and it appeared on the i8th of July, by a medium of feveral J"'^' . .» ^» / Satuiilay lit obfervations, that (he was in the longitude of 206° 20'. And at fun rife of the 20th, the extremes of Owhyhce bore from North Eaft by North, to Monday »« South half Eaft, two leagues off fliore. The fecond v-fit of Captain Douglas to thefe iflands had well nigh compl'-ted the misfortunes of his voyage; — as a plan had Ikch formed by the chicfi of Owhyhee to cut him off" with his crew, and then to rob and deftroy the (hip. — Indeed it was in a great nieafmc owing to the manly and prudcnbcondu£l of Captain Douglas th i- this fcheme, which was regularly formed and adjuftcd, proved nbortivt-. — This dcfigti was to have been executed on board the Iphigenia ; and tho* treacherous chiefs, who were to have taken the lead in the bufinefs, had already introduced thcm- V ' q A ~" felves J III — _ ^ ' ^'i „!. UlL ' V. ]■ ( i. ,^.\ ' \ 370 1789. JULV. V O YAG E S TO THE felvcs into the (hip. — One of them had got a piAol, others held daggers in their hands ; and, as it may be fuppofcd, all were, in fome way or other, fecretly armed, becaufe, as it afterwards appeared, each had his allotted part to perform in the intended mafl'acre. The king's elder brother and Aropce had engaged to kill Captain Douglas ;— Pareconow was appointed to (lab Mr. Adam fon, the principal officer ; — Terreamctce, the younger brother of the king, was to perform the fame inhuman office for the boatfwaiti, and the other chiefs had each his murderous work afligned him ; whiclx being compleatcd, a lignal was to have been given for the natives, who lay in their canoes, to get on board, and to throw all that remained alive mto the fea. — ^The velTel was then to have been pulled in pieces, and carried up into the mountains, in order to prevent any fufpicionsof what had happened from alarming fuch Grangers as might vifit the ifland at any future period. Such was the account which Tianna gave to Captain Douglas, with tears and lamentations, of the intended tragedy, in which, though he could not prevent the defign, he refufed to co-operate, and had em- ployed his fervant to give notice of it ; but the man had been fo clofely watched by fome or other of the chiefs, that he had not found an op- portunity to make the purpofed communication. When, however. Captain Douglas faw the chiefs armed, and found that the queen had been fecretly conveyed away from the (hip : he began to fufpecfl mifchief and aiSted accordingly. He took care, in the firft place, not to betray any figns of apprchenfion or alarm ; and very properly conceiving that if he (hould call his people up to prevent the apparent danger, it might drive the infidious people to fome ad of defpair that might produce very fatal confequences to the (hip, — he determined to try a more tranquil method ; and, under various pre- , ' ■ ■ tences. NORTH WESTCOASTOF AMERICA. tcnces, got a piftol from one of tlic chiefs, ami a dagger from another, and being armed himfclf, he waited with impatience fur the ar- rival ofTianna, who was on ftiore, to determine in what mannt-r he fliould finally proceed. In a very (hort time that chief came on board, and Captain Douglas taking him alunc into his cabin and bolting the door, he infifted upon being informtd concerning the intentions of the king and his people, when Tianna threw himfelf upon tlic floor, in an agony of diftrefs, and unfolded what has been already related,— laid the whole blame on the king, and recommended that he (hould be itilLmtly put to death. Captain Douglas immediately jumped on deck, with a loaded piftol in each hand, which had fuch an efFedl on the chiefs, who were affmbled there, that they quitted the fhip in an inftant, and drove their canoe fwiftly to the fhore. 37« 1789. July. Such an hoftile and treacherous conduct in the king and his attend- ants, as we have juft related, might be fuppofed to have broken off all intercourfe between the ftiip ami the natives ; but as it was abfolutcly neceflary to procure piovilions for the future part of the voyage, an humiliating apology was rcceivcil from Tome-homy-haw, for what had pafled, who laid all the Mame on his chiefs; and a communication was renewed with the natives, which produced great plenty of hogs and fruit, as well as bafsrope, the latter article being provided on ac- count of the mifcrablc ftate of the cordage, &c. on board the (hip. ♦ * , On the 27th, Captain Douglas, after having left letters for myfelf j^,„„j^y ,j and Captain Funter, in cafe either of us lliould touch at Owhyhee, quitted the ifland.— Tome-homy- haw, to the laft, intreated forgivenefs, and exprefled the deepeft concern for the alarm which he and his chiefs had occaHoned ; and Tianna, with all the fenfibility of an honeft and in- genuous mind, continued to lament it.— Indeed, fuch was their condudl * . . and ^',;!V'"» •l|M*MlM#MMJBlMMtMi 37* VOYAGES TO THE 1789; and behavlonr when the moment approached tor the Iphigenia to depart, A»ooiT. jjjgf fjjgyg j,jj„ {jg „Q doubt but that Britith (hips will hercaiter find in this ifland, all the comfort, prote»Slion, and friendship, which 'I'ome- homy-haw and Tianna may have it in their power to procure them. :i i- i .iV. Tuefdayis On tltc following day they came to an anchor in Witetee Bay, in the Ifland of Woahoo ; but every article of trade being now expended, the armourers were ordered to cut up the rudder ch.uus, in order to pur- chafe the provifions with which fcveral canoes hud come laden from the (here. >: . ' - . , After touching at the other iflarids for water, yams, &c. on the loth Monday 10 of Augufl, they quitted the Sandwich Iflands, and made Htil to the Weftward. On the 4th of O£tober, without having met with aigr! uitervening occurrence of particular curiofity, apprehenfion, or good fdrtUnCi that would juftify a defcription, they faw the Coaft of China ; and, on' the following day, the Iphigenia, after her long and various voyages, and all the dangers as well as interruptions encountered in them, arrived fafe/ and came to an anchor in the roads of Macao. ^ f3^/ .. '#: V V V *• 4 sf(^*&r, ■ifetr- HH Wp W i II r i ~ i I r i i f 1 T or RAF T- C OVE, tnA'c/i dy MT Fun (er, Mtf//t:f f'/'/Zfr NOR TIf W ^EST AMERICAN. Lat.5o?;ij'N. Loii. 23i?5.'>'E. fi/'CrefHwir/i En^nved fyTJoot- I ■■III (I 1 IV W:--: rai l i n l i M Wi n citi ii-inr-iirrt¥i'rT-T'"*Tllmii"— - )._t^ , -»^ .■'WN'7?*r*ii .^'- rv ^^j M „^ ^•ifc' " r;^" #' r ■f \_ ■"*-. I •«ss "U: ii#' ^■tafe*" ■.ttM ii>i— ■wi'>->««» r' A*^**?* -^^.I B L OF THE E 'Rovrn of tie FEhicK, //&f Variation o/" /^^ Compass, ««27 5S 128 10 131 10 •3' 3« 132 19 »33 S3 '35 38 136 35 '37 38 Dig. Min. I 10 r N. N.W. fieni gales; Bafilan S. W. by S. to W. N.W. 4 leagiics, l and two finall iflands, named Felice's Klands, N. by E. 4 miles. (Lii'Jit ami v.liiable winds i fiiltry and cloudy; in the night Iieavy rain olF Magindanao. I Variable light airs ; hot and fiiltry : hard rain during the night. I Magindanao E. half N. 8 leagues. E. N. E. light breezes and cloudy; during the night windy ; two fniall iflands S. S. K. 5 leagues. Magindanao N. 13 leagues, and feveral other fmall illands ; and one aimed level with the water, half a mile, which we called Providence Ifland. {N. E. frelli breezes and fmcj palTed between two fmall iflands. The Talour Iflands N. N. E. Sanguir Ifland W. !N. E, and E. N. E. ftrong breezes and fair. Land E. 1 1 leagues. LandatS.S.W. North Cape E. 14 leagues. Morintay N. E. by E. half E. to E. S. E. 6 leagues. f N. E. (Irong wind and fqually ; parted between Riou and Jelolo ; I Morintay in light. f"N. E. by N. and N. moderate breezes, with flying fliowers of rain ; tpalTed a number of fmall iflands, befnccn Morintay and Jelolo. Kiou S.W. by W. to S.W. hall" S. 9 leagues. Jelolo S. 6.W. to S. K. II le.ngiies. /N. E. liglit airs and fine weatliT. Morintay S. by W. half W. toW. by N. lialfN. 16 leagues. Jelolo S.byW. to S.W. 14 I leagues. N. E. light breezes and fine. Morintay N. W. to W. 14 leagues. {N. E. light breezes and cloudy. Land fcen E. S. R. to W.by N. 9 leagues. Wagiew S. E. by E. to W. 6 leagues, {Variable, and N, W. fqually with rain. Wagiew S, E. half E.to S W. by W. 4 leagues ; two fmall iflands in the N. E. quarter. {W. N. W. light breezes, fqually with rain. The Tattce Iflands in fight. f W, S. W. and W. N. W. light breezes and fultry. Near the I Talee Iflandj. {W. N.W. pleafant breezes and fine weather, with a large fwell from the N. E. and very fultry. Paffed the Tattee Iflands. {Variable; clofe and fultry j thunder and lightning ; fqiiallsof rain. Pafled the Freewill Iflands. {Variable; light winds, fultry and fqually, with much rain, thua- der and lightning.— Near the Freewill Iflandi. 1 w APPENDIX. TABLE II. continued. . Route efthi Felice from Samboinoan to Nootka, or Kino George's Soundi en the N. W. Coast of America. Time. 1788. Fei. 29 March 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 It 12 13 14 15 X7 18 >9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 s8 29 30 3» y//n7 I Latitude North. Longitude Eaji. Fariat. Eaft. fVinds, fVeathtr, and Remarks, Dig. Min. I 7 2 3 3 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 3 4 6 40 fa 5 14 >4 58 2 55 17 3Z SO »5 45 27 41 25 14 12 37 8 22 9 48 11 18 12 36 14 — 15 26 17 2 18 7 19 29 21 2 21 53 22 26 Bfg. Min, '37 lo 136 56 136 37 '37 9 137 59 '38 58 '39 58 141 18 142 47 142 25 '42 55 H4 25 '45 37 •46 35 145 >5 146 30 147 58 147 9 146 3 146 4 145 18 144 45 '43 58 142 58 142 26 141 45 141 12 140 25 »39 48 140 26 139 38 Drg. Min, — { 30 -! 2 18 S. E. light airs, with frequent Tqualls of rain ; near the Freewill Illuiids. __ r Variable; from N. E. to E, N. E. thick clo\idy weather, very fuUr>', and heavy fquulUof rain, 30 N. E. moderate breezes, cloudy, fqiially, and heavy rain. N. Eafterly, exlremt'ly tenipcftuoiis, and very heavy rains. N. E. ver)' fqiially, great rains, and much fca. N. E. modcr;ite, cloudy; a great fwell from N, ^^ Variable, light breezes, fqualls of ruin. N. Eallerly, fqually, with Ihowers of rain. N, Eaficrly, fqualls, much thunder, lightning, and heavy rain ; after, light breezes and fiiltry. Variable, light winds, flying (howcis. Variable, light airs, clofe and Tuitry. N. filaflerly, fciually, hard rain, clofe and fultry. N. N. E. fqually, hard rain. Variable; moderate breeze, cloudy, very fultry. »; N. N. E. pk-afant breezes, fine weather. Variable, li;;ht airf.extreniily fultry. N. Kaftcrly, uioderate breezes, fine, and extremely fultry. K. N. E. liylit breezes and fine weather. N. K. moderate breezes and fine leather. VariaLlf lijjht breezes and fine weather ; a large fwell fromN. E. N. E.plcafant I'rceze, cloudy ; a large fu ell. Variable; frefli breezes, flying Ihowers of rain and cloudy. N. E. plcafant breezes, fqualls of rain. N Earterly, iilealant breezes and fine weather. N. E. pleafant breezes, fine weather. N. E. pleafant breezes, fine weather. N. E. tVelli breezes, fine weather; numbers of birds fcen about the (bip. — N. E. iloudy, fquallsof rain. 24 N. E. frefh breezes, much fwell, a heavy and confufed fea. 24 N. E. light breezes, hazy. — E. by S. and S. E. light airs and hazy. Variable; clouds black and heavy, thunder and lightning; nuine- rous Hock.s of birds, r Variable; frcfli breezes, cloudy, thunder and lightning, with a \ very heavy fea and fonie rain, with a tcrnblc whirlwind. 4 4 a 3 3 3- 26 12 6 10 50 ^,6 — {' -(' iH P P E N X. TABLE II. continued. Route of ihe Fs.Liczfr9m Samboincan /« NooTKA,#r King Georci'i Sovko, oh ihe N. W. CoAiT 0/* America. Time. 1788. 10 II 12 *3 *3 24 25 Latitude North. Longitude £1/1. Fariat. Eajl Windi, IVeathir, and Rtmarh. Dfg, Mill. 24 56 24 44 27 30 38 14 18 58 29 50 30 5 31 22 33 18 14 3<> 20 »5 36 49 16 38 40 «7 38 5' 18 39 21 »9 40 20 20 40 38 21 4» 14 22 41 44 4^ 35 43 — Dtg, Mn, '43 39 »45 41 146 12 h8 37 151 56 154 19 157 4 158 48 «S9 36 167 - 168 48 171 26 175 10 178 3 182 9 182 29 185 8 189 25 196 28 fliy, Min, — { — ( 20 24 4 »4 52 — { 9 20 10 11 12 52 — { N. W. violent gales, witli thunder, lightning and rain, and 4 mountainous Tea. N. E. (Irong breezes and clear; land feen E. N. E. dittancc 8 leagues. {S. E. frelh breezes, fouie rain, thick andhar.y. Two fmall iilanils abreaft, 5 or 6 miles; we named them the Grampus lilcs. N. W. (Irong breezes, a heavy rain, fleady gales and clear. W. N. VV. ftrong gales, a heavy fca, weather clear, and very cold. N. W. frefli breezes and clear weather : and very cold, f N. N. W. flrOng breezes and fair weather: fawa rock at E. N. E. \ half N. I league; we named it Lot's Wife: Rock- weed and ^ flocks of birds feen. N. N. W. plcafant breezu, and fine. Variable, light breezes ; cloudy, but pleafant. r South; frefli breezes and fine weather; rock-weed, flocks of birds, L a piece of a canoe and a piece of timber feen. {S. S. E. a ftrong gale, j;loomy and overcaft, fina'.l rain and tliick weather, and a great fra; faw ruck-weed and a rcddilli fpawn. r N. W. hard gales and a heavy rain, and a very confufed fca; palled \ more weed. South ; light airs and clear v.eather. S. E. frefli breezes and drizzling rain, ftrong breezes and liard rain. f E. S. E. hard gales, much rain and a heavy fea ; pafTed a large \ turtle, large flocks of bird.t and rock-weed; clear, and extremely I cold. Variable; flronggales and a largo fe.i. f S. W. and S. S. E. flrong gales, with fqiialls of rain ; thick and I hazy, and a heavy fea. Variable ; fqually and conflant rain ; (^iflld a piece of drift wood. Eafterly ; light airs, cloudy, and very cold, r Variable ; light breezes, cloudy, hard gales, with Uiualls of fiiow L and fleet, and extremely cold ; pafll'd a large V% of wood. {W. N. W. ftrong gales, fqu-illy, a high fea with hail and fnow ; flocks of birds and rock-weed feen, and the trunk of a Iarj;i' tree. W. N. W. and S. by E. very hard gales ; a hard rain, and an ex- ceeding great fea. W. N. W. very hard gales, with rain, and an inuncnfe high fea. i4 ■ ' I , I APPENDIX. TABLE II. continued. Route cf iht Felice/tsm Samboincan /« NooTKA,i9r King George's Sound, en the N. W. Coast of America. T'lmt. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Vitr'iat, Eaft. fVindiy IVtather, and Remark f. 1788. j^prit 26 27 »8 29 30 My I 7 8 9 10 II iz «3 Dig. Milt, 43 35 43 50 44 33 45 »9 45 46 46 5 46 44 47 45 48 10 48 59 49 i8 49 "8 49 *8 49 30 49 3* 49 35 49 «6 203 Ij 204 36 209 36 204 2 207 45 212 3 217 1 230 52 21 1 — 1 219 223 226 9 22 57 229 22 223 22 — — 21 I Deg. Milt. S. and S.W. by W. ftrong gales, fqiially, and a great hollow fca. S. W. flrong gales, fqiuilly, with rain. S. Ilrong gules, Iiazy, and a heavy lea. S. S. W. ftrong breezes, fugj'.y, and much fea. W. N. W. fqually, with Ihowers of rain and fleet! pafled a fecond fpar. W. N. W. and S. flrong breezes, fleet and fmall rain ; moderate and cloudy. S. S. K. flrong breezes, with rain ; Taw a rmall piece of drift wood and birds. 18 E. N. E. light breezes, fqually, and fome rain. — — S, S. W. fqually, thick and hazy, with rain. — — S. S. W. frclh breezesand foggy ; faw a whale. W. N. W. cloudy, fmall rain,frcni breezes, foggy; faw fea-fwal* lows and flieer-waters. W. by N. fqually, with rain. , W. by S. fqually with fnow and hail; faw a fca-parrot and a piece of drift wood. S. Wefterly; fqualls of fnow and hail. Variable; fqually, with fno'/r and hail. S. Weflerly ; very heavy fqualli, with fnow and hail ; faw lanci £. by S. 13 leagues. S. E. by E, very heavy fqualls of wind and rain, and much fea. Nootka Soimd N. E. 11 leagues; faw a veffel off the Sound. S. by E. flrong gales, fnow and hail. Entered Friendly Cove,ia King George's Sound, abrcafi the village of Nootka. — 1 _ -r ■ij TABLE III. ■ um ii n i I'i J ' >■ N D I X. TABLE III. Route »//** Felice />•«« NooTK A, er Kinc; George's Sound, along the N. W. CoAiT »/ America, and back to Nootka. Time, 1783. '^une 1 1- 12 »J 20 29 July X 2 3 4 5 LnUludc Koi th. Longitude tojh I'ariat, Eajl. JVlndi, Weather, and Remarks. D,g. aiin. 49 " 48 39 47 46 47 — 47 » 46 10 7 45 12 8 45 10 9 46 34 10 47 49 11 48 45 20 48 41 21 48 45 22 47 50 23 48 36 24 49 40 25 49 38 >^//^-. 8 — — 9 49 25 10 . — — 24 — — Dig. Mn. ^35 34 21 Min. - { 28 8 16 18 10 30 t Variable i light winds and clear. Breaker's Point N. W. half W. Half-way Point K. 3 leagues. S.KaHeily; llrung gales, heavy rain and much fea ; ofTlliore 6 leag. {H. Northerly ; flrong gules, thick weather and conltant rains; en- tered Wicananifli Port j remained till the 10th i weather Itormy. In Port Cox, where we reiriained till the 28th. iW. Northerly; pleafant and moderate ; otf thciflandsof Barclay Sound, and entered thcflraits of John de Fiica. {Wefterly; moderate and fine; Cape Flattery S. E. half E. < leagues; paflTed the illand of Tatootche. {S. Wefterly; flrong gales, hazy and rain; Cape Flattery N. N. W. off the (lioreofQueenhithe. The ilk of Deltrudion ■ mile. S. Wefterly ; heavy rain ; thick fog ; heavy fea. Pafled Saddle Hill, S. Wefterly; frelli breezes, conftant rain, thick weather, and a great fwell frem the Weftward. S, W. moderate, clear weather; faw Mount Olympus. (S. E. light breezes, clear weather; Mount Olympus N.N.E, 7 lo.ig. Paired Low Point and Shoal Water Bay, and Cape Shoal VN'aiir. (Northerly; (Irong gales, a great fea. PalTcd Cape Dirappoiiitmenf, into Deception Bay, and hauled out again, and paifed Quick- fand Bay, Cape Grenville, and Cape Look-out. N.WcCcrly; (iroug breezes & cloudy. C.Look-outE.byS.iilea, N. Wefterly; light breezes, fair. S. Wefterly; fqiially, with rain. N. Wefterly; fqually, with rain. Cape Beal N. by E. 10 leagues. {Southerly; light breezes and pleafant. Entered Port Effingham, where we remained till the joth. S. E. light breezes; left Port Effingham. N. Wefterly; frcfti breezes; Port Effingham N. W. by N. 5 milei. {W. N. W. pleafant breezes; Breaker's Point N. W. ; tlie Sugar Loaf, or Port Cox, W. N. W. 15 or 16 leagues. Variable; light breezes; fmall rain. S. Eaftcrly; thick and hazy; fmall rain. S.Eafterly; thick and foggy; KingGeorge'sSoundE.N.E.tileag. Sailed out of Friendly Cove. {E. Southerly ; frefti breezes; thick and foggy. Spoke to tli« Princcfs Royal of London, Captain Duncan. E. by S. At Port Cox, where we remained till the 10th. Returned toNootka, where we remained till the 13 d Septemb^. I'J ' ^Soi APPENDIX. TA B L E IV. Route of the TtLicz/rom Nootka, or Kino Glorce's Sound, /» the Sandwich Islands. Time. 1788. Sept. 23 24 26 -7 28 29 0£l. I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 »3 >4 15 16 »7 li Latitude Longitude Irariat. Noith. tiiji. Eaji. Dig. Min. 47 Zi 45 30 43 44 42 2 40 I 38 42 37 48 36 23 35 12 34 25{ 33 53 3« 44 29 36 28 I 26 40 26 9 24 50 22 41 20 54 20 15 20 6 20 ti 20 13 H^imls, fFeather, and Remarks, Drg. Min. 231 228 225 322 221 220 ^7 3« 16 52 48 i9 D,g. Min, 219 218 30 1 < S 1 7 p«r Ac 1:1 jjpsrOb. 220 49 220 32 218 22 217 23 217 18 2174630 216 30 40 34 12 214 212 209 42 209 20 207 44 — f Northerly; a frefli breeze ; failed out of FricnJly Cove j a frefli gale, with much fea. Breakcr'i Point E. S. li. Emiancc of I Friendly Cove N. half \Vc«. . N. Wefterly ; ficdi breezes. ■ N. by W. plcafant breezes and cloudy. 20 16 N. Wefterly, [ileafant breezes and cloudy. — — N. \V. and N. N. E. moderate breezes: fqually with fmall rain. - N.N. E. light breezes and cloudy, with flyinjj fqualls of rain, ' Variable; light breezes and cloudy, with light flying fqualli of r»in. Variable; light airs; frequent fqualls, with fmall ran. Variable ; frequent fqualls and c'.oudy. Variable; frequent fquidls, with heavy rain. I—.— N. Eafterly; light breez:^ and clear, ■ Vari.ible; light airs and clear. ^— Variable ; ftrong gales, fquallj-, with much fea. N. Wellerly; frequent fqualls ; fhowcrs of rain, and much fe«, — — N. by W. pleal'ant breezes and clear. S. Wertcrly; pleafant breezes and clear. Variable ; light airs and clear. r N. E. and E. N. E. light airs, the breeze increafing: a lai-g« I fivell from the N. E. 22 E, N. E. frcfli trade-wind and clear weather, E. N. E, fredi trade and cloudy. E. by N. pleafant trade and cloudy. E. by N. light trade and clear. E. byN. light trade and clear, intermixed witli (quails. /Variable; fciually, with Iicav7 rain, and hazy. Saw land from I E. S. E. to W. N. W. diftant 6 leagues. 1.1 Toe-yah-yah Buy, at the illand of Owhyhee, 55 2 55 36 TABLE V. 1/ APPENDIX. T A B L E V. Route «f iht Felice atiht Sandwich Islands, and fiom thencito Ch ina. Time, f, Latitiidt Sorth, Lem'iiudc Eaft. 17615. O^oher 19 20 21 a2 i»3 24 35 26 27 28 29 30 3» 2 3 7 8 9 10 II IS »3 Vor':at. Eajh IVinds, JFcather, and Rimatks, D:g. Mm. 20 36 20 46 21 II 21 3> 21 S5 21 59 5^5 56 50 5 23 28 21 21 21 23 Pf^. il/i«, Di-g. Mm. 23 41 24 3 20 6 23 47 23 33 22 52 22 24 21 48 21 48 21 48 21 49 21 4^ 21 33 21 25 21 10 21 10 •99 45 196 44 '93 42 i^o 40 187 45 185 1S2 182 15 18 50 179 55 177 2 — ( 171 06 iz 20 i68 9 164 50 11 — \'^6 54 II 20 163 IS JO 35 »55 51 10 14 153 lO 150 37 7 44 6 35 — { — { S. W. and N. E. at Ain-rife extremM of Mowee bore from W. N. W. to K. N. K. diliant 3 miles. N.K. anil variable; tight airs and 6ne ; hot and Aillry. OK Mowee. Variable; light airs and fiiltry. Mdrotoi from N. W. by W. to the Ifland of Ranai, W. by N. 4 miles. At noon MorotoiE. ■ o leagues. Variable; pleafant breezes and fair. Pafled Woahoo. N. Kaflerly; light breezes. At noon Atooi fromE, by S. t» W. by N. Onceheow W. by N. 10 leagues. N. E. frefh breezes and fqually. At Wymoa Bay. N. E. Hrong gales. Steering for Oneeheow, where we arrived a| about 6 o'clock in the evening. E. N. E. moderate and fair. At Oneeheow. E. N. E. frefh breezes and fair, Leftthe 1 (land of Oneeheow* N. E. frclh trade and cloudy. N. E. pleafant trade, and fome fmall rain. N. EaUcrly; pleafant trade, with fonic fqualls and fmall rain. N. EaOerly ; fqually, with fome rain at noon ; pleafant trade and fair. Many birds about the (hip. E. N. E. and N. E. fqually with rain. Several birds about the ftiip. Variable ; fqunl'y with hard rain ; at noon pleafant trade and fair. £. S. E, and E. N. E. pleafant trade and fair; at noon fqually with r.iin. E. N. E. fqually, with frequent fliowersof rain; at noon pleafant breeze and fair. E. N. E. fqually, with hard fhowers of rain: at noon pleafant trade. E.N. E. frefh trade and pleafant; the night fqually with rain ; at noon fine and pleafant. E. N. E.— N. E. and E. frefh breezes and cloudy. E. N. E. frefh trade and fqually, with rain. E. by S.— E. and E. N. E. pleafant breezes and fair. E. by S. and E. N. E. frefh trade and pleafant. N. E. nearly ; frefh breezes and fqually. E. N. E. light breezes; hot and fultry. E. N. E. and E. S. E. light breezes and clear weather, E. S. £. and £. by N. light breezes and fair. .».-.«,; >^ n VH I A P P E N D I X. TABLE V. continued. Route •/<*# Felice a/ /Af Sandwich IiLANDs, and from thinci to Cam \, Time. Latitude A'or th. Longitude Eaft. Vuriat. Eajl. Winds, If'caihtr, and Remarks. I7»8. Nov. 15 16 17 18 19 20 ai 22 *3 a4 *S 26 27 28 29 30 3 4 •5 Org. 20 21 21 Min. 48 4 10 21 *3 42 3 21 »{ — 20 40 20 20 «3 2 20 38 20 40 21 2 21 22 27 28 21 49 2t 10 ?er Ac, 21 38 22 7 3 Org. 146 ■46 54 142 18 139 28 »39 3 l}9 iSpcrAc, '45 5JP«'0'' 141 20 137 O 136 O i3i 5» 130 54 127 46 124 54 122 20 IZI ZO "9 5S 117 22 6 16 57 39 13 l^ 3 38 — ( — { Between K.by S. and E. by N. liglit trudeand line weather. E. light breezes i hot and hiUry. E. hght breezes and clear j at times cloudy. Variable; flrong gales, with a great fca. S. Wcilcrly ; (Irong gales, with much rain. From W. S. W. to N. N. W. light breezes and cloudy. Prom N. W. to E. byS. rqually, with frequent fliowcrt. N. E. light airs, rain, nuich lightning, and a large fwell from the N. E. Variable from E. S. E. to N. E. fqually, with rain. S. S.E. and E. S. K. fquallyi with rain. Variable ; light breezes. N. E. light breezes i heavy fqualls of rain, with a he»vy fwell from the N. E. N. E. frclh gales and cloudy, with fmall rain, N. E. frclh gales ; fqually with rain. N. Eadcrly, pkafant breezes and cloudy. K. by N. (trong gales and fqually, with rain at times. N. Eallerly ; hght breezes ; conllantrain, and very thick weather. Saw feveral land birds. N. E. durkcloudy weather; hard fqualls, and conflant rain, u'.«h a great lea. Saw Botol Tobai^o Xima. E. N. E. frclh ga!c:i; fqually; fwell of ilie foa J^'jiciifiug. Saw the Coart of China- . : Anchored in tite ru:'.il-: cf M.icao. I ( ■:.i:/':\ ~"'^^'-: ■ ., ; < ' ,! ; ♦ I : 1 • iMi 'i -iiu ; j»,n* .. . ,,;:;. . A UiR 7''..' ■ ■::' v.j / ' ■ •,r^j •; .. 1:1 ,\ ,, ./ TABLE VI. I ii / r p E w D 1 X T A B L E VI. ROUTK »/ Mr TPRTdtWrA /rMM SAMBeiNOAN /« CoOk'* R IV»l,,«tt ti« N.W.CaAIT •/AMtmcAr Timt, LiUllud* Ncrlh. Longitud* tajl. Variat. ffiMt/', fVtathtr, and Remarki. 1788. \Dig. Mm leh. It 6^ 57 93 25 «7 a8 SI, Dfg. AfiH' 6 41 6 21 5 58 6 9 6 5 5 55 4. 1.8 3: J'* 3 O' 3 3 *^49 so 45 35 10 »«3 3^ «»4 53 126 21 126 4. 126 49 I&7 21 128 9. 129 7 129 48 130 34 »3» 4 -{ Dig.Min, fMiMWntc brenrt and fairj at night ToinE r^n. Left Samboia- j gan i Ulaml ofBaireUn from S.E. by K. lo S.W. by W. j San. '^ tu Cru7. K. S. K. haif S. and another MtUnd K. S K. being in mid clianiiel 1 fcvcral other illaiidt in fi^hl to ihi S. E. N. WeOerly I light breMeij Mr weather, BallirUn, ai noen» [ borefromW. S.W. to W. N.W. 10 league • r Light ain ami calm*. At noon the Kail end ofBafUanN.W.byW. \ and an \(Uiui S. W, hal( W 10 leugiici. Vaiiable ; liglii airi. At fun-Tet BaTiliui bore N. W. and an ifland N.N. W. hairw. ajlcagtiei. {Light ain andMknt. An idand from N.N. W.toE. by N. 6 or 7 leagues. {ZJght breezes and fultry, hot wwtlier. Land from N. to E. off fliore 3 or 4 leagues. {i. Wefleily i moderate brccae» with catnw. At noon Maginda. nao from N. W. halt W. to K. half N. oflf fHore 3 leagues. Lij^htairs and cainas. At noon Magindaiiaobcre from N.W, byW, to S. E. by E. oflT IhoK 4 or 5. leaguM. N. E. moderate bMcxcs with fquailsi and a lieavy naio. At day* light 3 iOandsin Tight, from N. K. by N. to F,.N. E. E. S E. and S. K. by E. 6 leagues. At noon Morotay S, by K, the SoHthernmoA of the KabuangsS. S. W.hal£W.5 •/ 6 kagiies. N. Hafterly; moderate breezes with fqualls of raia. At fun-fet Aw 8 or 10 iilands, with dangerous breakors, from S. S. E. to .N. by W. diltant from the body of them * niitet. At noon, the ifland we faw yeAerday bore Vf. N. W. f teuguw. Light breezes and fair weather. Variable} light winds; cloudy with (iiuallk e£ rain. At noon- took the latitude and longitude of an ifland, which was calledk Morjtayi it lias in 1° it'N. and:ii7* 33.'£. by a numbet of obfervations. Variable ; frefli breezest cloudy and IquaUy. Saw land at fua.- rife, bearing S. I or 9 leagues. 2 ICW North i a fteady breeze. I OW N. EaQerlyj pleafant breezes and fair. N. Eafterly; pleafant breezes and fair. Ditto wind and weather. At 3 P. M,.faw a fmall ifland b«afui(; E..half N( diftam le or u Icaguei. 1-r I APPENDIX. T A B L E VI. eonfimttif. RoUTIl/fAflrHIOKNIA f0»m SAMB0tHOAN/«CoOK'lRlVBIl,MI>#K.W. CoAiTf/'AMRiiteA^, rorint. Eo/i. iriuJi, IVtaikir, ttuJ JLmarku Mim. D*g -[ I 37 w. i I » I ] 4tB,|i«TAm., 45 «. ..I N, Eaftiily ; pleafairt breexei nnA f.iir. Off tlic illand we Um yc(lcrili>',wtiicli\v.uc:iltcd Jcihiilton't lll.inil, UUciiiij'' ii ' N» ar.d iji" 1 1 ' E, N. Kaflerly \ Diodrritic brrtici tnil iloiutf, ' Northerly j frclh brrr7.es and (qiuny. ____ N. K. frcfh hnrzc's uiul cloudy. _____ Variable ; light airs. 4 6Ep«rAm. Light air» and raliii ; cloiuly » ith rafn. tjIp.rAmp.}*^'"""'"'""^-""** *'•'<*• ^' Variable ; li|{Jii breeze* and falr< ' From N. N. W. to N. E. light airs sad calm. | , N.W. liglMwMK Vr. S, W. light ain with calm*,, aiid fome rain« ' ^ i M«derate breeze;, cloudy with rain. , .^ Variakle to N. W. by W. f^aUf with i««. . M. andN/N. K.ftvqMnlOiuaHi. } ' ' * 1 f. * Calm; hot and Aihiy. ;; ! ^i. Variable ; llftit airswith hard rain. Variable, with light airs and calins, a*d foine rniik Variable ; light windsrfqaallywkh rain. "-^ N. E. calms, witfcKght wiads. N. N W. to N. £. light airt, calnu, with fqualU of rain« M. E. iMiderate bfeezc witli fqiuUt of rttik N. E. to E. N. E. fquaHy and cloudy, witli rain.. • EquaHy with flwwert of raint N, E. Arclh breezes , with fquallt^ndt heavy raihi A fine bneze with ckar weather. At day>light faw two low. iiland* bearing N W. by \V. 7 or » leagues, which were named Good- Look out lOandt.. At noon they bore W, S. W, half S. 3 or 4 leagues. ?N. E. (cinarlubly clear, and a (inoolh fi:a. Near a. dangerous reef of rocks,.whichftretchedas far as Moore's Illand. Amon^ft the Helew Iflands - , , , A frelh breeze with fqualls of rain.. N. Eaderly, moderate breezes with fair weather^ «. Ealterlyi haiy. '{ ■> ) je E.|)ai AV 3 J8 6 20. { P E N I ,X. J ! T A B L E Vf. eontinued. ■HpuTE tf tb* IrifiGENiA/r«»i Samboinoak, it Cook's RiYBR, «n thtJi, W. Coait of America. Timi. 1788. 9 10 II 12 ;i iS 19 20 21 22 as a4 25 26 27 28 29 30 LathuJe North. Slit CT" 3 J3 •4 15 16 »7 18 19 29 21 22 22 24 25 26 27 *7 V 28 29 3?„ 30 30 30 31 JW/n. 5° 26 27 38 30 25 27 46 40 57 6 28 42 »5 9 4» 53 29 Lonfltudt Eaft. fariat, Eaft. fViHds, fFiathtr, and Rtmarks. 29 47 o 21 »9 50 26 132 27 132 9 131 58 131 »3i 18 12 130 41 130 6 130 1 1 129 ib 129 28 129 28{ 130 9 "9 53 130 57 »3» 3 ^3i 3* »34 25 »34 S4{ 135 »53o 137 a ^38 24 139 IS Ui 13 M3 30 144 17 145 24 »47 35 Z><°j. Af/'a. 1 54 2 30 2 o I 3 per Az. 1 I ■* par Am. J I 5 p«r Am. ■ gper A<. tt p«r Am. 3 43 P«r *»• ] 46 per At. ^1x1 4 9 per Az. Moderate and cloudy witli rain. E. N. E, plearant weather. N. £, light breezes, fair weather with a heavy TweU. £. N. E. a fteady breeze. A moderate breeze and fair weather. N. and £. light winds. N. and E. a freOi breeze, with fqualUof rain and a heavy 58 49 5+ 32 Deg. Min.i 149 2 »5o 34 150 28 150 38 »5' 29 152 6 154 41 156 19 iSo 30 162 18 '63 44 165 35 165 49 168 14 170 57 172 56 174 26 '77 3 »73 5« 178 51 181 3 •83 5 »85 M 187 23 188 2 iS3 26 190 19 »93 3» •97 23 201 7 202 29 Varial. Eaft. JVittdt, IVeather, and Remarkt. Deg, Min. — { 9 8 per Am. — { S. S. E. to N. W. and a heavy gate. Pafled a quantity of fea- weed, and a number of birds about the fliip. Northward ; Itrong breezes, clear weather. Nortlierly ; ftrong gales in fquallt. / Liglit breezes and clear pleafant weather. Saw a fnake and tw« L curlews.' Light winds and hazy. Saw feveral pair of wild ducks. E. and S. fi-efti breeze and hazy. : S. and E. (Iroiig gales witli heavy fqualU. Northward; moderate clear weather. Ditto. Moderate and fair. S. S, E. frelh breeze and cloudy. S. W. frefli breeze and hazy, W. by S. moderate, cloudy. S. E. blowing hard; thick weather, rain. S. S. E. to N. W. (Irong gales, hard fqualls, a heavy fwell. Pafled a number of (hags. S. W. liard gales. S, W. and S. E. moderate, fttlh gales, {S. E. and N. W. trefli gales, heavy fqualls, rain. At 9 A. M. l^alTed a 'arge tree. N. W. toP. W. moderate; a heavy, tumbling fea. N, E (liick rainy weather. N. W. frcrti breeze with rain. N. W. frefli gales, fair weather. — { Eafterly; frefli breezes, hazy, rain, N. E. by E. a frefh breeze, fqually. A number of difTerent birdi flying about, and fettling on the water. ''N. E. moderate and hazy. At4A. M. fuw the Iflandof Amluck, bearing N. byE. diliance about 14. leagues. At noon clear; faw the land, bearing N. N. E. diftant 10 or 13 leagues. N. Wefterly; light winds and calms. Firft part moderate and clear ; latter, frefh breezes and cloudy, Wefterly ; a ftcady breeze, hazy weather. Wefterly; a fteady breeze, hazy weather. {Wefterly; a moderate breeze till midnight, aftenvards a moderate breeze fromE. S. E, d . is APPENDIX, TABLE VL donlinteJ. tt.btifttf^tlrniG£)ii'iA/ritH SARtftoinoAN #« Cook's R i ver, «ii /ik N. W.Co ast {/"AMeric a. Tim*. 1788. yune s 8 9 10 II 12 »3 »4 15 16 LatliMdt ^orth. Lonritud* fPlkds, fTeather, ttni RUndrki Dig.Min, 56 29 56 26 S6 56 56 48 56 45 56 59 58 I 59 4» Dtg, Min, 204 54 206 12 206 — 205 36 3o€ 17 205 I 36 205 5 206 6/ 206 3 206 40 »07 33 Deg. Milt. — { 1146 per Al. aj 16 per AM. »45!perAi. ^ £. Northerly ; a frefli breeze; at nooln a hard gale. At day- light raw Trinity Iflaad, bearing N. 'N. V(r. diflant 7 dr S leiig. (The gale increaTing. At S P. M, the extremities of the land from Cape Trinity, E. N. E. to N. W. by W. the neareft land dilfaint 6 leagues. At 6 A. M. Cape Trinity bore N. E. about I a or 1 3 leagues. The gale ftill cncreafing to an Hurricane. At 5 A. M. faw land, the extremities bearing from IH>int Trinity N.N.W. to W.S.W. Two-headed Point W. N. W. diftant from the body of the land I a Or 14 leagues. 'The hurricane ftill continued, with a mofl dreadful f the land from the Ifland of Su L Hermogenes. • {S«uth'^ard ; a freflrgale. Palled the Barrm Illands into Cook'a KiKr, where we remained till Ihf a)th. '—^^iVWi P P E N D I TABLE VII. X, Route tftht IPHXoiNiA/rw» Cook's River to Nootka, or King George's Sound, oh tht N. W. Coast ^ America. Time. 30 July I Latitudi Lon^ltMde I Fariat, Ntrth. I Eaft. Eajl. /Finds, fVcathir, and Remarks, Deg, Min. 7 8 9 H IS 16 59 59 18 59 47 Deg. Min, 59 59 60 »7 36 60 43 D*g, Min. 59 bl 59 58 213 35 *'3 5» I - r {Frelh breeze; hazy, with rain. At it A. M. the EaRerninoft of the Barren Idands bore S. S. £ and Cape Elizabeth N.N.E. 5 leagues. I N. Eaflwaixl; moderate breeze; liazy and rain. At lo A. M. [ the Ifland of St. Hermogenes bore S. W. didant 7 leagues, r Light winds and calms. At 8 A. M, the body of the Barren I inands bore N.W. by W. diftant 14 leagues. {N. E. and N. N. E. frefli breezes; fqually and rain, with an heavy fwell. (Variable, with heavy fqualls and calms. At j A. M. wind S. E. with moderate weather. Extremities of the continent from N. N. W. to W. by S. diftant 10 leagues. N. Eallerly; with fqudlls and rain. The extremities of land bore from N. E. toS. W. half W. off (hore 4 leagues. N. Eafterly ; fre(h breezes ; fqually and rain. At noon the ex- tremitiesof land bore from N. half E. to W. half S. diftant 10 or II leagues. {* Eafterly breezes and fair weather. At noon the extremities of Montague lilandbore from N. by E. toN. byW. Eafterly ; frefti breezes and fair. At noon furrounded witli land, except towards the paflage by which we entered, which bore S. {E. S. E. light breezes. Paffed between Montague Iftand and the Green Iflands. {Light winds, with clear weather. At anchor in Snug Corner Cove, where wc remained till the ■ 4th. Light airs and hazy. fWeftward ; a light breeze ; at noon calm and cloudy. Cape Hin> chinbroke bore S. S. E, and the N. E. end of Montague Ifland S. diftant 3 or 4 leagues. {E. N, E. thiclc and cloudy weather. At noon the extremes of Montiig\ic Ifland bore from S. W. half W, to W. by N. Cape Hinchinbroke N. W. by W. 8 or 9 leagues. E. moderate breeze and clear. At noon the extremities of the land bore from W . N. W. to N. E. by N. The body of Mon. tague Ifland W. N. W. diftant from the main land 5 or C leagues. i -,i APPENDIX. TABLE VII. centitmd. Route »f the Iphicenia /r0m Cook's River lo Noqtka, »r Kino Georoe's Sound, »h tht N. W. Coast of America. Tmt. Latltudi North. Lontitudt Eaft. Winds, IVtathtr, and Rtmarit. 1788. Jfuly 18 20 21 22 *3 84 «5 26 27 28 29 30 3' Jug. I Deg. Mm. 59 5» 59 57 59 57 59 »8 59 5 59 «7 59 14 59 o 59 5 59 9 59 23 59 st6 per Ac. 59 *7 59 41 59 i« per Ac 59 16 Drg, Min. 214 2 215 51 216 14 216 23 217 10 a«5 38 216 47 ai6 30 216 18 217 13 i»7 54 219 20 219 42 219 47 2«9 33 22 11 Dig. Min. \ N. and E. light winds and calm. At 4 P. M. Kay't Ifland bore N. E. half E. diftant 13 or 14 leagues. At noon the S. endof ditto bore N, E. by E. half E. diflant loleagues; thecxtremes of the continent from N. N. E. half E. to W. by N. Variable ; at times a light breeze, at others heavy fquall* with rain. At midnight palTed the S. end of Kaye's Illand. At noon Cape Suckling bore W. by N. diflant 3 or 4 leagues. S. and E. light breezes; at 3 P. M. E. N. E, heavy fqualls, with rain. At noon tlie body of Kaye's Ifland bore S. W. the ex- tremities of the continent from Cape Suckling W. by S. toN. E. half E. didants leagues. N. E. hazy weather. No land in fight. Frefli gales, with rain. At 3 P. M. blowing very hard. At 7 a heavy fea, with the gale increafing from the N. E. and ei- tiemely cold. E. and E. by N. frefli breezes. At 1 1 P. M. it blowed very hard and a heavy fea. E. N. E. cloudy and hazy weather. About 3 A. M. the wind fhifted to the N. Ilrong gales, heavy fqualls, and thick weather. At I P. M. faw Kaye's Ifland, the S. end bearing N. W. by N. diflant 10 leagues. N. E. firocg gales, with heavy fqualls. N. E. light airs with calms. In the morning the wind S. W. thick hazy weather and rain. S. E. light airs. At i o P.M. tvind N E. and to E. At $ A.M. Southward and Eadward. At noon light winds from E. S E. Light airs and calm. At 6 A. M. faw land, the extremities from N. N. E. half E. to N. W. dirfamtofrfliore about 14 leagues. Southward and Wellward ; a light breeze. Steering in for the land to the Northward of Becring's Bay. Variable, with light airs. At noon calm and hazy. Weftward j a light breeze. Sent the long-boat on fliore. N. E. blew (Irong, with heavy rain. Hoifted in the long-boat. S. E. At fun-rife E. and E. by N. At noon light winds ; theex- tremities of the land from N. W. to E. S. E. diftant from (hore 10 leagues. F) A P P E N D X X. TABLE VII. cmttnnd. KouT£ rf thc\vn\GzmK,from Cook's River. /oNootka «r King Geoaoe'i Sound, sa tbt N. W. Coast e/AM£RicA^ Tinu, Latitude North. Lcn^itudt Eaji. Variat. Eajl. tVtnds, fVeatbir, and Remarks. 1788. -^"g- 3 Dtg, Min. 59 »o 59 10 II 12 »3 14 58 10 par Ac. 58 2 57 38 57 15 per Ac. 56 19{ 55 a* i)<'^. Mitt. 221 27 221 33 *33 »S 223 26 224 15 224 115 7 per Ac, 2:4 joperOb. 225 57 54 43 Dtg. Min. 227 37 . f N. W. n L N. N. - — < _I Calm at noon. At 3 P. M. a light breeze from tlie N. Weft- ward. Saw Mount St. Elias bearing N. W. by W. about 10 leagues. Sent the jolly-boat for a very large bird on the water. At i A. M. faw a fmoak ; ordered the jolly-boat to proceed within a mile of the fhore, to fee if there was any appearance of inhabitants, and dropped anchor. The boat returned. The place where the fliip lay called Tianna's Roads. W. S. VV. pleafant weather; at noon cloudy. The extremities of the land from W. S.W. to S. E. half E. Cape Fair Weather N E. by N. and Crofs Cape S.E. by£. diflont from theneareft land 4. miles. Light breeze from the S. W. cloudy. Saw iflands of ice in running in for Crofs Sound. Moderate and fair. In the afternoon nmning along the fliorc to the Eaftward ; the extremities of the land from W. S. W. to S. E. by S, off fliore 3 or 4 miles. W. moderate weather. At z P; M. faw the appearance of a bay. At noon hazy. The bay we left in the evening bearing E. off fliore 1 leagues. (Weftward ; a frefli breeze and fair weather. At noon Mount Edgecombe bore N. W. by W. half W. and the extremities of tljeland frem N.W. half W. to E.S.E.diftant offfliort 4 miles. r Weftward ; a bride gale. At » P. M. faw the appearance of a bay i . vbearing N. N. E. At noon the extremities of the land bore from t N. N W. half W. to E.S.E. diftant about 8 or 9 leagues. Northward and Weflward ; a brilk gale. At 3 P. M. faw Cape Adamfon, which lies in 55° iJ' N. and 226° 4'Ea(li and Cape Barnett, which is in 55° 39' N. and 226° 4' E. At an> chorin Sea Otter Harbour. Hazy, with rain. Cutting wood and watering. Exploring the head of the ftraits. At g P. M, (leered through the mouth of theftraits ; Cape Barnet bearing S.W. by W. half W, and Cape Ailamfon S.by W. halfW. At noon Cajie Adam- fon bore N. W. by W. and Cape Barnett N. W. PaflTed an ifland which was named Douglas Ifland, lying in 540 58' N. and 226" 43 'E. W. a fteady breeze; clear weather. At i A. M. a ftiffgale. thick foggy weather. At 9 A.M. Douglas Ifland bore W. by N. half N. At noon land bore from ii. by M. to N. W, byN. Oft' fliorc 4 lea^^ues. '/ .' A P P E N D IX. TABLE VII. continued. ]t.ouTE »/ tbt IPHio£NiA/r»m Cook's River u Nootka, «r Kino George's Sound, «m ihi N. W. Coast of America* Time. fflnJs, Weathtr, and Rtmarks, 1788. Aug. IS 21 22 «3 as s6 *7 i);;. il/jn. 54 S» 54 6 53 55 51 4 A. M. weighed anchor. At noon light winds, calm, and cteai ; the extremes of the idand bore from N. N. W. to S. half E. diftant 3 or 9 leagues ; the continent from E. by S. to N. N. E. diftant 9 leagues. Variable; light winds. At 9 A. M. by j obferved diflances of the fun and moon, the longitude was a30° 16' K. tlie extreme* of the continent bore from N.W. by N. half N. to E. by S. N. W. to S. S. E. At midnight a thick fog, with rain. Weftward ; tliick and foggy. At noon windS. with a thick fog. Light winds. At It P. M. wind Ihifted to W. andclear weather. At fun-rife faw land, bearing N. E. by E. diliant 10 leagues. At 10 A. M. wind N. W. and encreafed to a (Ironggale. At half pad 9 A. M. got feveral diHances of the fun and moon, which made the longitude 331'* 38' £. At noun a ftrong gale, (leering E. N. E. N. W. a ftrong gale. At 7 A. M. Captain Monrcscame off in a canoe, with fome of the jiatives, and piloted us into Friendly Cove, where we rcRiained till the a7tbOi5lober. '.\': TABLE ' ■if ■i- fir Si \'V^ 1 f1t~-*>* -m^ )K<«^iM*l4''4u« A P P E N X, u V T ABLE VIII. • RonTE«/'HiGENiA(i«Iowee. I Dropt anchor in j fathoms and a half. The extremes of from a bay, which the natives call Witetee Bay, on the S. E, lide of Woahoo. InWitetee Bay. In ditto, where we remained till theiotli, when Captain Fiinter joined us, and wc both continued till the 1 1 th. (Southerly j cloudy, with rain. At + P. M. we both weighed, and flood eff between Morotoi and WoaluMJ. At noon Morotoi bore E. half N. to S. W. lialt \V. otf fliorc 4 miles. flhc gale continued till 8 P. M. when the wind (liiftuil to the Northward, and brought moderate wcathci, with heavy rain. At noon dropt anchor in Wiutee Bay. In ditto. 'Wind from the land ; very heavy fqualls of wind and rain. ?tiiod out to fca. At I in the morning in mid-c!utincl, hctwcen Morotoi and Woahoo. At fun-rife the body of Morotoi bore N. N. E.andRanai E. "At fun-rife the extremes of Wo.ilioo bore N. W. by W. half W. to W. by S. off (horc 4 or 5 le.igucs. At noon fa.v the . itrhooner, W. half S. diftant 4 miles. Kept off and un th'i I Illand of Woahoo till the 25th, during which time the an- I chors were cut away. {S. W..at4 P. M. with an appearance of a gale from tliat quarter. At 5 P. M. weighed and ftood out of Witetee Bay. At day- light dill within the point. The extremes of Woahoo E, by S. to N. W. by W. off (hore 4 miles. -■omsm' «<»^ *.^itmmhiix A P P E N D I X. t, T A B L E IX. continue J, Route of iht Iphios-iha andN, W. America Schooner, at thi Sandwich Iilandi. Time. Latttudt North. 1789. Jm. 26 .' *7 aS • 29 I'l-b. 19 23 Lonthude Eajl. Deg. Mil, D,-, . Min, 21 a6 27 s8 5' 19 56 . ,■ .; \ Vu) tat. EaJJ. Winds, ircather, and Remarks, Deg. Min, r Light airs ,mJ calms. At fiui-Cct the extremes of land bore E.byS. \ to N, iKillNV. Otr lliore j miles. fS. K. a breeze. At j 1'. M. Atooi bore W. by N. half N. At au>-ll(!ht it bore W. by N. to N, \V. by N. lialf K. 5 or 6 li'ai;ties. At noon iloudy. The S, E. point of Atooi bore W. by N, 4 or 5 leagues, {Variable; fijually with rain. At noon Atooi bore N. E, by E, half !•:. to N. W, half w'. Oneeheow \V, half S. {Moderate and fair, Dropt anchor in Wymoa Bay at noon, where we remained till the igth of February. 'a light breeze. At 1 P. M, got under way. At fun-fet Wy. moa Bay bore N. E. During the night the wind was variable, with li^'ht airs. At noon the N.W, end of Oneehfow bore W. dillant 1 mile. I N, Wedward ; fre(h breezes, with heavy fijualls. At noon the \ high bluff on the S. W. fide of Oneeheow bore W. diftant I 6 or 7 miles, r N. W. Urong gales. At 11 P.M, hcwy fqualls. At 8 A. M. •! more moderate. At 9 Ipokc with the fchooncr. At noon Atooi I bore N. E. by N. to N. by VV. ililtaiit 7 leagues, r Lit^lit plei. At 4 H. M. a nefli pale tVoiii the N, N. \V, In the •{ morning the extremes of Woahoo bore I'roni K.N.H. to N.N.E, I i!illant6or7 lc;iguc.s. At noon pairedtlieW. point of WiietceBay. j' Variable; light winds. At 7 P. M, dropped anchor in Witctte I Bay, where we flaid till the 14th, fNVedward ; a frelh breeze. At fun-fet got under way, in com- I pany with the fchooner. At day-light the S. \V. end of Ranai J bore v.. by '->. ; body of Morotoi N. E. ; \Voahi;o N. W. dif- I fant 8 or 9 leagues. At n( on Ranai bore from N. by E. half E. I to E. byN. half N. dilKuit 5 le.i.;ucs, r W.S.W. lirH and middle part a fine breeze ; the latter part calm. J At day-light tlic cMremes of Owhyhee bore from N. E, by N, L to S. E, by E. dilt.iii' 7 or i leagues. {IJght airs and calms. At fun- let the body of Mowee bore N.half \V, At noon the extremes of Owhyhee from N.E.byN. toS. lubyl'!. dillant 7 or 8 leagues C Li^ht airs and calms. At noon Karakakooa Bay bore S, E. half S, \ didant 8 or 9 leagues. APPENDIX. TABLE IX. eoutirmed. RovTB »f tbt IPHioiMiA aud N. W. America Schooner, attht Sandwich Ilandi. T/Mf. Latitud* Ntrtb. March I f) 3 9 lO 11 12 >3 "4 «5 i6 *7 20 6 Ltnrilude a/I. Fatlai, EaJI. Dtg. Mill, Deg. Mim, fVindt, PFtathtr, and Rtmarks, 20 31 -( f Variable | light ain and calms at limn. At Tun-rire Owhyliec J bore from N.N.E, half E. to S.S. E. off there 6 leagues. At ^. noon the current had fet lis to the WefiwarJ, about 1 o leagues I from the Owhyhcc fliore. Firft part light ain and calm) latter, a pleafant breeze, and dear weather. At noon Owhyhte bore from N, half W.toS.K. by S, diftant from the Ihore s leagues. {At 4 P. M . drept anchor in Tirowa Bay, where we renuined till the f th. The latitude of the fliip at anchor was 19* 41 ' N. r A breeze off land. At midnight got under way ; and at noon the i E, end of Mowee bore N. E. by E. half E. ) Tahoorowa from I N.byE.toN. W.halfN. r A frelh trade wind. At day-tight Woahoo bore from N. by E. 1 to N. W. half W. At 6 A. M. wind variable j heavy rain. ^ At 1 1 dropt anchor off Witelee Bay, Light air* and variable. Off ditto. r Frefh breezes, with cloudy weatherand rain. At 1 A. M. made J fail for Atooi. At day-light Woahoo bore from E. by N. to I N. N. W. half W. diflant j leagues. {N. N. E. a frefli gale.At midnight dropt anchor a miles E. of llie anchoring ground, off Atooi. Light winds, and variable. Off Atooi. t Wind off the land. At i P. M. got under way for Oneeheow. A At noon the extremes of Oneeheow bore from N. half E. to ,S. V Off fliore 4 miles. Frefli breezes off Und. Off Oneeheow. OffOnecheow. TABLE A P P E N D I X. TABLE X. HovTzc/ iLth'HiozsiAand'N, W. America Scliooncr, /r«m//fr« Sandwich-Iilandi, u NooTKA, or Kino Georcl'* Sound. Time, 1789. March 18 *9 30 21 22 ^3 84 a5 16 27 z8 29 30 3» April I 2 3 4 5 ' ■■' ' 6 8 9 Latitudt North. I DegT^Min. 22 31 »3 24 26 27 27 28 29 31 3« 3^ 33 33 34 35 37 49 8 5 Si S6 54 8 56 58 4« 31 21 LoHtitudt EaJI. Deg. M'tn. 198 54 197 16 197 16 197 16 196 51 fariat. Hinds, H^caihir, and Rtmarii. 36 9 per Ac 36 19 36 37 38 39 10 3« 56 D«j. Alin. — { i ]4 p99 34 200 ««7 200 S8{ ZOI »9 201 47 202 40 204 10 — { 41 36 per Ac 205 56 208 15 210 13 2»3 »3 215 4« 218 22 220 13 N. E. At Tun Tft made riil i the extremes of Oneeheow bon from E. half N. to N. N. E. Jirtmt \ I eagues. (Moderate and fair. At j A. M. f.tw land. At 4 pretty clofeup with ii. At day -tight thi> ifland or rock, which bears the form uf a faddle, was named Bird Ifland) it lies in tiie Utitiids of ij" 7' N.and 198* lo'E. N. N. E, pleafant weatlier, Frelh trade winds, with rqiialU of rain. Cloudy, with rain, and much lightning. ] Pleafant breezes and fair. N. N. E. a Heady trade wind. (Moderate and cloudy w-e«ther. At midnight the wind drew round toE.byS. E. moderate, and cloudy weather. S. E. moderate, and hazy weather. E. light winds, and fair weather. Several gulls flying about the fhip. 11 46 per A 1.1 Eaflwardi light winds and pleafant weather. ^ II 18 pcrAm r __ Light airs and calms. {Variable} light winds. At 10 P.M. windN. E. A number of birds flying about the (hip. r N. E. moderate and cloudy weather. In the night, wind variable, \ with fqualls of rain. ^_^ SqiuiUy, with rain. {I'irll and middle parts moderate and cloudy. Latter part wind S. S.W. afrefhgale. iWertward i a fredt gale. At half pad 1 P.M. got feveral fets of lu« nar obfervations j by their medium the ftiip was in- jc6 ' 4' E. . Northward ; (Irong gales with heavy fqualls. Numbers of birdi '~^^ \ flying about. Saw fome rock weed. ,___ Northward and WcDward ; ftrong gales, with hravy fqualls. {Found the current had fet us 10' by D, R. to the Northward of our latitude by obfervation. {Frefli gales and fqually, with rain. Thefe 14 hours our reckon* ing difli^red »o miles from our obfervation, _^i_ S, frelh breezes and cloudy. 12 .1 In APPENDIX, sr-j TABLE X. cvntinued. Route of thtltHiOEViA and U. W. America Schooner,/ram tht Samd wich-Iiland» (« NooTKA, «rKiNo Gegroe's Sound. Time. Latitude North, Longitude Eaji. Fariat. Eafl. fVindt, Weather, and Remarht 1789. April 10 II la >3 14 »5 16 »7 t8 19 20 D/^. Min. ^l 16 per Ac. 41 4a 4» 35 43 o 44 »5 46 5 per Ac, 47 53 49 7 49 44 49 37 Deg. Mm. S22 3 222 34 223 59 225 13 azo 42 Z28 6 228 4 230 o 231 23 Deg, Min. 17 4 per At. — { {Variable, with rainy, hazy weather. At 10 A. M, wind N. with a heavy gale. Strong gales, with h.-izy weather. W. N. W. heavy fqualls At 5 A. M. a perfeft hurricane^ At 6 P. M. moderate. S. Weftward ; moderate and hazy. {Firft part light winds. Middle and latter, a frefli breeze, with fog and rain. {Strong gales, with hazy weather, rain and hail. At? A. M. got onediftance oCthe fun and moon. Longitude xa8* 4'. S. E. moderate and hazy. Variable, with frequent (howers of hail. Saw the Coaft of Ame> rica, extending from N. Iialf E. to E. N. E. dillant lo leagues. (Light winds and variable, with cloudy weather. At fun-fet the extremes of land bore from N. W. by N. to E. half N. diftant 10 leagues. At noon calm; Land from N. W. by W. tO' E . half S.; the entrance of Nootka N. 7 j " K. difiant S leagues. J. At 1 1 A. M. dropt anchor in Friendly Cove, where we were de- I tainedtillthe ift of June. T A B I, E XI. Route of the IPHlciNiA/r»m Nootka, or King George's Sounjj, a fecond Time, it the Sandwich Islands. . • 1789. Deg. Mm. Deg» Min Jmui a Z 50 4» 330 29 4 51 33 229 37 Deg. A/in Northward. At Am-fet Nootka Sound bore N. half W. dift.int {iMor 7 or 8 leagues. f At neon thick hazy weatlicr. Nootka' Sound bore N. E. half E. \ difTant 14 Ieag\ies. fS. E. frefli breezes and hazy. At fun-fet Woody Point bore N.W; by N. diOant 1 leagues; and the Wefternmoft of Lance's Illands N. by E. diftant 5 leagues. J. S. W. light winds, fair weatlier. At 7 P. M. the Wefternmoft J of Lance's Ifland bore E, by S. At noon Cape St. James bore \^ W. by N. diftant 16 or 1 7 leagues. N b I X. TABLE XI. continued. RouTE«/'M«IpHioEMiA/r«MNooTKA, «r KiKc Geo&ge's Sound, o fccond TttHI, itibi Samowich-Islakdi. Timt. Latiiudt North. Ltnr'itudt Eaji. Farlat, Eefl. fFinds, fVtatber, and Remarks. 1789. June 5 ,:. ;■ 6 7 to »9 20 zi 2Z a8 Dig. Min. 52 J3 per Ac 54 7 per Ac. 54 45 54 46 Deg, Min, Deg, Min. 228 27 229 229 15 229 12 -( S. W.. firft part fair weather. At fun-fet the Southern extremity of Prince William's Ifland bore W. half N. la leagues. At fun-rife the extremes of Clurlstte's Ifland bore fromW. N. W. to W. by S. diftant 1 leagues. At noon thick fog and rain< S. E. (trong gales, thick fog, and heavy rain. At 6 A. M. faw a number of fea-otters. At 1 1 ditto faw a fmall barren ifland. breezes, hazy. At 3 P. M. out of fight of the ifland, ounded with a number of fmall iflets and rocks. At noon wind S. E. Moderate and fair. At 6 P. M. dropped anchor abreaft of Fort Pitt, in 54" j.S'N. latitude and 119° 43 longitude E. ; Cape Farmer in 54' 35', aag" 16'; Cape Murray 54" 43', 118' 10 Petrie's Ifland 54* 4a', aa9<> zp'; and Mount St. Lazaro in 54" ja' and aSo" 56' E. )rs. W. a thick fog. At 6 A. M. the extremes of land bore from Queen Charlotte's Ifles from S. S. E. a leagues. At noon hazy. Port Meares — { r S. E. frefli . I and Aim ^ nnnn urtn {S.W. a thick fog. At 1 N. E. to W. S. W. i toS. S. W. diftant 13 bore W. by N. <4 226 39 -( -{ ' Cloudy and rain. At 7 P.M. dropt anchor in Haines's Cove j ia latitude 54'' 57', longitude aiS" 3',where we (laid till tiiei9th. S.W. cloudy, hazy weather. At half pads A M. weighed an- chor. At noon the land from Cape Murray bore from N. E. by E. to a high bliiffland named Cape Irving, which, with Cape 1 Murray, form'< the entrance of Port Meares. Cape Irving N. W. half V . J Cape Irving lies in 54" 49'N.and aa7 ' 43JE.; the J^. W. point ol (i^Charlotte's Ifland bore S. by W. half W. 1 a or 13 leagues. {S.W, mode rate and cloudy. At fun-fet Charlotte's Ifland bore fro.n N. E. half N. to W. by N. At 10 P. M. dropt anchor oif M'Intire's Bay, which lies in 53 '" 58' N.and in aaS ' 6'E. r S. E. moderate and cloudy. At 7 A. M. weighed anchor ; paf- I fed Cox's Channel, between Q^Charlotte's Ifland and an iflan, I off the N. W. end- of it. Weftward j moderate breezes and cloudy. Sent fome men on fliored Moderate and cloudy. At 6 A. M. weighed and flood acrofs the channel of Beal's Harbour. At 1 dropped anchor in Beale's Harbour, which lies in 54° i8'N. and in aa7° 6' E. wher« we flaiJ tillthe a7th. N, E. light winds. At 4 P. M. made fail, and fleered through Cox's Channel. At noon the extremes of the ifland bore from N. N. E. toE. S. £. half £. diltant 7 or 8 leagues. « •)'; E N T A B L E XI. continued. Route «/* tht IPHiCENiAyrfm Nootka, erKiNC Georoe's Sound, afecondTimt, itthe Sandwich Islands. Time. Latitude North. m •3*rt( 1789. yune 29 30 July I 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 II 12 13 14 i5 16 »7 18 19 20 t8 »9 Dig. Miti. S3 «6 52 26 51 10 50 «3 48 43 48 28 44 35 42 36 40 33 38 40 36 a6 34 50 33 7 31 22 29 z6 a? 31 26 2 24 26 23 16 20 51 Longitude Eajl. Variat, Eajl. IVinds, Weather, and Remarks. 21 5 225 30 225 46 225 53 225 41 325 54 224 17 222 50 221 25 220 8 Ofg. Mia, _L 219 23 218 12 216 47 2IS 23 214 I 216 36 212 44 209 11 208 »3 207 10 — { r S. E, light winds, with hazy, cloudy weather. At fim-rife Chv \ lotte's Idand buar N. K. by N. diSant 17 or 18 leagues. S. S. E, to S.W. moderate and cloudy. Variable, with hazy, rainy, fqiially weather. S. W. frefh breezes and liazy. S. W. hazy weather. Latter part fqually, with a frefh brecz*. Frelh breeze, with a thick fog. Latter part clear. N. N. W. a (leady breeze, with fair weather. Wind and weather as yefterday. r N.W. frefli breezes. Pad a quantity of rock -weed. Saw feveral i birds on the Ming, of tlie plover kind, Ibme whaleSj and a I number of black ducks. r S. W, and W. S. W. light winds and cloudy weather. Saw \_ large quantities of rock-weed, and a number of birds. N. W. frefli breezes, and fqually. Moderate weather and cloudy. N. E. a Heady trade-wind, and cloudy. A Heady trade-wind, and cloudy. Ditto. {A (leady breeze end clear. In the morning got fevei-al fets of didajMes of the fun and moon, the mean of which was 1 1 a° 58 '. Pleafunt trade wind, with clear weather. Light winds and clear weather. Ditto. N. E. to S. E. light winds. At half pid 9 A. M. by feve- ral fetsofobfervations, the longitude was 106" jo'. {Moderate breezes, with flying fqiialls of rain. At day-light Mowee bore S.W. half W. diflant 13 leagues; Owhyhe* S. W. by W. ag leagues. At noon the extremes of Owhyhee bore from S. by E.lo S.W. diOant 16 leagues. Mowee W. by S. f Pleafant brsezes, with fair weather. At fun-rife the extremes of i Owhyhee bore from N. E. by N. to S. half t. off (hore 1 I leagues; where we (laid till the 17th. {Variable, light winds. Middle and latter pirt fredi trade. At noon the extremes of Wokhoo bore froii' W. by N. to N.N.W. diliant 4 or 5 leagues. . E. N. E. a (leady breeze. At 4 P M. dropt anchor in Witetee J Bay, in which, and amongft the other Sandwich IHandt, wc \ (laid till the lath of Augud. A P P EN D I X. : Char- c?e. feverat and u Saw Time. 17S9. . 16 18 fcts of si'. y feve- -light hylie* whyher byS. mes of hore a A« • N.W. Vitetee tl»> we TABLE XIL i Route ofibe IrHiosviA/rom tht Sandwich Islands (« China* 30 3' Stpt. I 2 3 4 5 Latitudi Morth. Ltngitude Eaft. Deg. Milt. 2 1 49 22 22 22 21 21 2( 6 l6 »9 33 8 »9 20 44 20 ao 21 21 19 33 22 »9 41 23 »9 28 24 '9 3» a5 '9 53 26 20 26 -7 21 28 21 21 i' 35 21 36 n 4+ 21 40 21 22 21 24 21 25 Deg. Mm. 195 21 '93 2 191 31 190 i3 183 57 187 30 185 40 183 40 181 44 180 4 178 36 177 26 »77 3 '76 35 175 38 «73 55 172 IS 167 50 166 31 165 i« "164 41 163 3^ 162 4 60 12 158 6 Variat. Eaft, Wtndt, fVtathir, and Remarks, Dcg. Miu. 1 ( 1 -i f n £. N. E. a frdbti-ade wiiu^. A (leady trade wind, and clear. Light winds, and pleafant weather. Ditto, and hot, fiiltiy weather. Light winds. Varying from S. E. to N. E, ,. . ?• - ,. r Pleafant breezes and fair. At midnight lightning all round the \ compafs. At 10 A, M. faw the appearance of land in the S. E. '■ quarter i fhortly after faw large flocks of birds. Cloudy } lightning as lall night. In the morning clear. A Heady trade-wind. In the night heavy Ihowers of rain. Pleafant breezes, and fair. , Light breezes, and fair. ' ' Light airs, with hot, fultry weather. Ditto, and calms. Variable ; light airs, with flying fhowers. j Ditto, with calms, and light airs. ' ' Pleafant breezes, and fair, ' f Moderate breezes ; hot and fultry. (Light winds. At 3 P. M. got a fet of agronomical obfervations,. which made the fliip in i6j* of longitude, being upwards ofj'" a-head of account. At 6 P. M. law numbers of birds in ttmks. {Light winds, and cloudy. In the morning wind S, by E. with flying fqualls of rain. S. S. E. cloudy, with heavy fhowers of rain. Variable ; light winds. At 7 P. M. obferved thedirtance of the moon from tlie liar Antircii, weft of her; wliich made tlie Ihlp in longitude 16^° 11'. At the fame time obferved ilie diflaiUL- of the ftar Pegafus from the moon's remote limb, E. of Iri-, which made the (hip in longitude 165' 10' E. {Light winds, and fair. In the niglit heavy rain', with much thunder .-md lightning. Squally, with thunder, lightning, and he-ivy rain. {Heavy fqualls of wind and rain, with peals of thunder, and m.uli lightning. At 10 A. M. faw himd.'eds of birds flying about.. Fre/h breezes, Iqually, and cloudy. . ^ ; , .. I I' i li.f APPENDIX. TABLE XII. continued. Route »f tbt IpHicENiA/r9M<^# Sandwich Islands r« China. Tim*. Lit'ttude Nerib. V I 1789. Sept. 6 7 t 10 XI It J4 >5 16 »7 18 »9 20 21 Deg, Min. XI 17 21 5 a I ipcrAc. 20 49 20 12 Lonritudt I Fariat, Eaft. Eaft. Winds, fVtatbir, and Rcmarkt, >=; 20 20 12 20 6 20 16 11 »i parAc a* 33 tj 19 |wr Ac 22 48 21 47 21 3» DegTalin. 156 18 »5+ 36 152 17 150 t 147 18 146 8 ,;;■■,:» »43 J3 141 8 138 26 136 13 »3S 9 134 35 133 57 »34 *5 134 20 «34 3 Z)^^. JIf/fl. -{ — { FirA and middle part fqually. LaUer, a Heady breexe from the S. E. Variable firll part. Middle and latter, fqually, with rain. Frefli breezes, cloudv, and fqually. At 4 P. M. faw numbert of men of war birds, and thoufands of boobies. A frelb trade wind, with heavy fqualls. At 10 A. M. faw a flock of geefe to the Weftward. Saw likewife a grampus. Eaftward i a Ready -trade-wind. At 4 A.M. obferved the dif- tance of the ftar Aldebaran from the moon's nearefl limb, which made the (hip in longitude 147" 54'. Fre(h breezes, and clear. At midnight faw the Volcano Grande, bearing S.W. by W, diftant 8 or 9 leagues. At day-light made fail for the 3 Iflands of Urac, yvhich bore W. byN.didantt leagues. At i o A. M. got feveral fets of lunar obfervaiions, by the mean of which the ihip wasin 146* t' longitude: at which time the body of the 3 iflands bore W. half N. didant s leagues. At noon the centre of the 3 iflands was in ao" 1 9'N, latitude, and 1 46' 2 'H, longitude; UndtheVolcano in 19° jo'N, ' and in 146° 13' E. Moderate and clear. At fi P. M. faw a barren rock, which we called Guy's Rock; it lies in so" 30'N. lat. and 145* 5a' E. longiftde. Strong gales, fqually, with rain. S. E. (Irong gales, with heavy fqualls of wind and rain. S. and S. S. E. frelb gales and heavy fqualls. At 10 A. M. got feveral diflances of the fun and moon, by the means of which -the fliip wasin 136° 13' E. longitude. At half pad 10 faw a reef of rocks under our lee, extending about j miles, in a W. N. W. and E. S. E. direftion ; they lie in so" 37' N. latitude, and 136* 10' E. longitude, and are extreoiely dan- . gerout. S. W. flrong gales, with rain. S. W. ftrong gales, and heavy fqualls. \ Wind and weather as yefterday. S. W. Firfl part fqiully, with rain. Middle and latter part clear. S. W. moderate breezes. Light winds and calms. For the Uft a4 hours • number of land- birdt about the fliip. APPENDIX. TABLE XII. continued. Route tfthilvmozTxiKfrom tht Samdwich-Islakdi t$ China. Tmi. Latitudi Norih, Loneitude iaft. Variat. Eaft. fVindt, fViatbtr, and Remarks. 1789. Sept. 22 s6 27 28 29 30 OR. 1 a 3 4 5 Dtg. 21 Min. 28 21 30 21 29 21 32 21 i5 21 12 21 24 22 22 sr ■> •* ' 21 53 • 21 49 21 5* No obfervat. — — — — :- ' ■ ' .. ■.':' Deg. Min. 132 50 131 27 >30 5 49 129 18 128 9 126 52 I2j 12 122 23 Dfg, Min, — { {Variable ; a heavy rain. Middle and latter parts a fteady breon from the Eallward, with fair weather. Squally, with rain. S. S. W, light winds, and pleafant. Ditto. Firft and latter parts light airs. Middle, a fine brecxe from llH Eallward. A moderate breeze, and clear. N. N. £. a Heady breeze, and pleafant. N. N. E. a (leady breeze and clear. At half pad 7 P.M. bjr • number of obfervations of the liar Antares, W. of the nMon, by the mean of which the (hip was in 1 14* 1 1 'E.latitude { Bolol Tobago Xima bearing S. 7 j* W. diftant 17 leagues. { Moderate, and clear weather. At noon the extremes of Pormola \ bore from W. by N. half N. to N. W. by N. dillant 9 leagues t Botol Tobago Xima N. E. dillant 7 leagues. (Pleafant breezes, and fair. At fun-fet Formofa bore from N. W. by N. to N. by E. diliant j leagues ; the rocks of Vele Rete S. S. W. diftant 3 miles s Botol Tobago Xima E. by N. half N. dillant 1; leagues. Light breezes and lair. {Frefli gales ; thick hazy weather, with thunder, lightning, and hard rain, r Strong gales and hard fqualls. At 11 A. M. got fight of tht j Grand Lema, bearing N. W. diftant 3 leagues. At noon the Grand Lema bore W. half S. diftant 3 leagues. {Frelh gales j thick and hazy from the Eaftward. At I P. M. came to in Macao Road, ^. ^^ ;. ., { » 1' TABLE AP^ENDIJt. T A 1ft T. E Xm. RovT£e/ihe N. W. America Schooner, /r«nNooTKA, «f KiNC Gborge'sSovnd tttbe SandwicU'Ulands. 1 m-: Latitude North. Lon^itud* Eajh ,.SJ:. 17 ! 3* 49 i8 ;i 40 19 30 28 20 29 JO 21 29 3 22 28 40 23 28 30 34 28 3» *5 28 3 26 27 41 Deg. Min. Farlat. Eqft. fVittdt, IVcaihtr, and Rtmarkt iriOtt 'iiS.i Deg. Mm, '•frs». i\ — { 9 30 — { E. S. E. fqiially, with rain and hail. Left Nootka Sound. Ditto, with liard gales, rain, and heavy Tea. S. E. andE. N. E. Tqually, with rain, and light brCMCt* N. Wellerly j fqualty, with rain, and a high fea. Variable; fqitally, and rain. S. Eafterly ; Orong gales, fqiially, with rain. Wind and weather as yefterday. Variable ; light breezes, with fniall rain. Variable; frcfh breezes, fqiially, and fome rairr. S. Wefterly ; fqiially, frefli gales, and an high fea, S. W. and S. W. by W. cloudy, with drizzly rain, and fqualls, S, Wefterly ; moderate breezes, with a heavy fwell. S. and N. W. by W. light airs, cloudy, and a heavy fea ; frelh breezes and clear. From W, N. W. to E. plea&it breezes and clew. E. S, E. and S. E. pleafant breezes, light airs, and cloudy. S. £. and N. E. light breezes and fair; pleafant breezes and cloudy. N. E.and N. N. E. pleafant breezes, and clomly. N, E. pleaf^int breezes, and cloudy. E. fqiially, with rain. S. K. fqiially, with rain. Variable ; fiefh breezes, thick and hazy, w itii IluxI rain, and a heavy fwell. Variable; modeiale breezes, with hard rain,, iind .1 lieavy fuell j light airs, and cloudy. From S. S. K. to N. E. fqiialls aud rain ; wiili mucii tliimtli'r and lightning, and u high fea. N. E. pleafant breezes, and cloudy, with fome rain. Saw a tro- pic bird, a fea pidgMn, and Portugal men of war. Variable ; frefh breezes, and cloudy. S. Eafterly; pleafant breezes, and fair. S. S. E. and ditto. S. S. E. and S, E. by S. frefh breezes, fqiially, and rain S. Wefterly; frefli breezei, ftrong gales, cloudy, and a heavy fea. S, Wefterly; fqually with rain, pleafant breezes. S, Eafterly ; frefli breezes, and cloudy. tbt APPENPrX. /. TABLE XIII. continued. Route tfthc N. W. America Schooner, /r«M Nootka, arKiNO George's Sound u ibt Sandwich-Islands. Time. id. 1788. JVw. 27 28 29 Dec. I 1 Tquans, fra; fre(h oiidy. ireezes and riiin, anil a leavy f"i.ll ; tluintlcr and Siiw atro- LatUude North. Longitude Eafl. Variat. EaJI. ffliidi, fVcatber, and Rtmarkt Dcg. Min. z6 26 25 34 26 25 25 23 21 57 13 o 18 2 32 iJc^. M n. Dig. Min, At the ao Smulwich >9 34 Idands. G, Eafterlyi freffi breezes, with rqualli of rain. S.E. and S. E. by E. frcfli breezes, and cloudy. {S.. E. by E. and S. E. by S. frefh breezes and cloudy, with liglit* ning, and fqualls of rain. S. S. E. frelh breezes and cloudy, with a heavy Tea. Variable ; freflt breezes, and cloudy. S. S. K. and b. by E. light winds, and cloudy. Variable and S. Faflerly ; light airs and cloudy. E. S. E. pleafant breezes, and clear. S. Eafterly j frelh breezes, and feme fqualls of rain. {E. S. E. (Irong breezes and cloudy. Mowee bore W, S. W. dif- tant I o leagues ; Owhyhee S. E. diftant ■ 8 Icagu es r Light breezes, and cloudy; oft' Mowee. At fun-fet Mowee bore 1 from S. W. by W. to N. W. by N ; Owhyhee S. E. diftant ^ 10 leagues. At fun-rife Mowee bore N. W. and W. by N. I diftant 4 or 5 leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore S.E. and L \V. S. \V. dillant + or i leagues. rLight airs ; hot and fultry. At fun-fet Mowee bore froi.i N. W. \ byN. toW. S. W. i OwhyheeE. N.E. to S.W. by W. dillant I 3 leagues. At day-light Owhyhee bore from N. E. by N. to S.; J Mowee N. W. by N. to \V. N. W. ; Tahoorowa W. by N. dirt.tnt 3 leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from S. half E, to N.E. OtFToe-yah-yah Bay. Mowee bore from N. by W. toN.W. byN. r Sr)nally,''with rain, and nuich thunder and lightning, and foggy. J At fun let Cwlnhee bcre from N. by E. to S, by W. dillant V 3 leagues. Scuiding into Karakakooa Bay. rain nd a heavy TABLE ■ TS'>' APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. Route $/tht N. W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich-Iilandi. Ttmi. Latitudi North. Lonr'ttudi Eaft, Fariat. Eaft. fVinds, fVtaiher, and Remarks. 1788. J>tc. 10 II ai 22 Deg. M'in. «9 35 20 39 a? 28 20 50 Deg. Min. Deg. Min. Variable ; liglit uiri, clear, hot and fiiltry. At Ain-retOwhyhre bore from S. half W. to N. W. by N. dittant a league* ; Mowcc N. W. ; Tahoorowa N. W. by W. At fun-rifr Owliyheebore from S. by E. to N, dinani 4 or 5 miles. At noon Owhyhee bore from N. N. E. to $. by S. difiant 4 miles. Light breezes and fair. In Karakakooa Bay, wlicrc we remained till the aoth. At noon the extremes of Owhyhee bore from S. by K. half E. to N. N. W. half W.j Karakal.uoa Bay E. by S. diOant 4 leagues. S. fqualts and rain. At noon the extremities of Mcwec bore from N. W. to S. E. by E. offfliore 3 le.igue$i the idand of Ranai W. N. W. to W. by S. ; the idand of Morotoi W. dillant I league ; Tahoorowa from S. S. W. to S. W. by W. diltaiit 3 leagues. Fiefli breeze from the S. and W, and cloudy. Came to an an- chor off the ifland of Mowee, i league from fliorc ; the extre- mities of Ranai bore from W. by N. half N. to S. W. by W.; Morokenne S. E. half E. ; the W. point of Owhyhee E. half S.; the ifland of Tahoorowa from S. to S. E. by S. ; the ifland of Mowee from S. E. by S. half E. to W. N. W. We remained at anchor till the >6tli. S. S. W. li^ht airs and calms. At fun-fet the ifland of Mowee bore from E. by S. to N. W. half W. 10 leagues; Ranai from W. by S. to W.N. W. diflant4 leagues; the extremities of Tahoorowa S. and S. E. diflant j leagues. ; Owhyhee from S. E. to E. S. E. diOant 1 j leagues. At noon Mowee bore from E. S. E. to N. W.by W. diftant 3 leagues ; Morotoi N. W. ; the extremes of Ranai from W. N. W. to W. by S. diftant 4 leagues; the extremes of Tahoorowa from S. by ^/. to S. S. E. diftant 7 leagues -, the body of the ruck Morokenne, S.E. by S. diftant 8 leagues. S. E.— S. and W. S. W. frefti breezes :loudy, with fqualls and rain, thunder and lightning. At fun-fct the extremesof Mowee bore from E. S. E. half E. to N. by E. diftant 4 leagues; the body of Morotoi N. W. by N. diftant 5 leagues ; Ranai S. by W. and W. N W. diftant 4 miles; Tahoorowa from S. by E. to S. E. diftant 9 leagues ; Owhyhee juft n li^ilit, S. E. by S. diftant 10 leagues. At fun-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore N. W, by W. diftant I leagues ; the extremes of Morotoi N. E. by N. and E. diftant 6 leagues. .1^ APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. coHtinueJ. Route of the N. W. America Schooner, at th* Sandwich Islanui» Lathudi Koi th. Ltneltude Eaji. Fio tat, Eojl. /finds, (Feather, and Remarks. ' 30 31 1789. Jan. 1 Deg. jWn, 21 17 21 26 31 26 21 S2 4 5 6 21 15 21 4 21 2 21 13 D/j. il/;'n Deg. Mm. r Light winds, turd rain, and much thunder and lightning. Atfun> fet the extremes ui Woahooboic from N. N. W. to W. diftant 5 leai;iies. At liin-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore N.W, and N. dillant 7 or 8 leagues ; Morotoifrum S. E. half E. to S. by E. diftant 6 leagues. At noon light airs, and clear weather } the extremes of Woalioo bore from S.W.by W. to W. by N. diftant 5 leagues ; Morotoi S. R. by E, and E. N. E. diftant? league*. r \V. S. \V. plcafant, breezes and cloudy. At fun-fet Woahoo bore N. W, by W. and W. by S. diftant 4 or 5 leaguet; Morotoi E. by N. and S. E. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. At day.light Wo. ahoo bore from S. W. by S. to W. N. W. diftant j leagues; Morotoi E. S. E and E. by N. diftant 8 or 9 leagues. At nooa Woahoo bore from N. by W. to W. diftant 3 leaguet ; Moro> toi from E. by N. to S. E. by E. diftant 6 leagues. f a. frefti breezes, and cloudy, with fome fqualls of rain. At noon J the extremes of Woahoo bore from N.N. W. to E. S. E. dif. t tant, olf ftiore, 1 or 3 leagues. r S. and S. by W, fre(h breezes, and cloudy. At noon e ex* J tremes of Woahoo bore fromN. N. W, to E. S. E. diftant off V ftiore, » or 3 leagues. C Light airs and variable. At 1 A. M. pleafant breezes and clear. ] At fun-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore from N. N. E. J to E. by N. diftant 10 ot 11 leagues. At noon the S. point of I Woahoo bore from E, by N. to N. diftant 8 leagues ; Morotoi [^ £. S. E. diftant 15 leagues. S. by E. pleafant breezes, and clear. At fun-fet the extremes of Woalioo bore from N. by W. to E. by S. off^ ftjore 3 leagues. At 1 A.M. light airs, and variable. At fun-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore fromN. N.W. to E. S. E. off' ftiore 6 leagues. At 10 A. M. pleafant breezes and clear. At noon the extremes of Woahoo bore from N. by W. to N. E. by E. off ftiore 10 leagues. 'Variable J frefti breezes and clear ; light airs and clear. At noon frefti breezes and clear —Still off" Woahoo. Variable; pleafant breezes and clear. Still off Woahoo, E. by N. pleafant breezes and clear. At noon the S. point ef Woalioo bore E. byN. diftant 4 leagues. •• 1 ■ J- \ \ \ Os ■\ .'i ■xS;J: APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. continued. Route of tht N. W. America Schooner, »i tht Sandwich Iilandi. i iv Time. Lutitude So'th. Loni^iiiide yar'ial, Eajl. (finds, fVcathtr, and Remarks. 1789. Jan. 7 lO&f II II fff 12 13 «4 - ..• ^ IS .-. iij I: 16 Dfg, Min. 21 12 20 51 22 7 if i><;f. A/»>r. -n ■ Dfg, Mk — { I Variable ; plcafant breezes and clear. At noon the extreme* of Woalioo bore from N. W. to E. N. E. clinanl 3 leagues. N. K.— N. K. by N. ami N. N. K. frcdi breezes, cloudy and f breezes and cloudy. At fun-fet the E. end of Woahoo bore from N. half W. to N. N. W. dif. tant 5 or 6 leagues ; Morotoi N. £. by E, didant 8 or 9 leagues. At day-light the E. fide of Woahoo bore from N. N, E. to W. N.W. didant » or 3 leagues. At noon the extremes of WoaJioo bore from E. by N. to W, Off Wytetee Bay 1 league. APPENDIX. ' ' TABLE XIV. continued. Route $fiht N. W. America Schooner, at th$ Sakdwich-Iilanoi. Time. Latliutii North. LoHwliudt Eaft. 1789. Jan. 1 7 18 19 zo Dtg, Min.'Deg. Aim. Var'ial. Eaft. fVittdt, ffiathtr, and Remarh. za 23 34 as 21 24 21 30 Dfg, MtH, 1 { { S. \V. by W. frefti bre and fair. At fun-fet Woahoo bore from N. E. by K.to S. K. by E. dillint from the N, W. point about 4 miles. At day.light the N, point of Wo»- Ihoo bore E. N. E. t the N. \V. point S. E. half E. off fliore a miles. At noon the N. point of Woahoo bore from N. E. liiiltE. tothe N. N\'. point S.offJhore 4 miles. f W, N. W. light airs and cloudy. At day-liglit Woahoo bore from ^ N. by W. to E. by N. off (here 3 leagues. At noon Woahoo ^ bore from N . N. E, to S. K. by E. off (hure 3 leagues, Eaftward ; a light breeze. Off (hore at W oahoo . W. light airs and plcalant. Off ditto. N. E.by E. and K. N. E. frclh brce/.cs and fair. Off ditto, C Pleafant breezes and fair. At 8 A. M, bore away for Atooi. Al i noon Woahoo bore from E, S. E. to N, by W. off (hore 1 I league, {Light breezes and fair. At 10 A. M.faw the Iphigenia off Wy. moa Bay. At noon dropt anchor 1 cable's length from the Iphigenia, where wc remained till the 1 9th. '"S. E. and variable! lii;ht breezes and condant rain. Weighed and made fail. At fun-let .\tix)i bore from E. by N. to N. W. by N. i Wynioa 'town N. by E. diltunt 7 or 8 miles; the K. end of Oneheeow from W. by N. to W. by S. diftant 6 or 7 leagues. At noon the E. end of Unchecow bore from N. by E, to W. by N. diliant 4 miles ; Tahoorowa N. W. by N. dilUnt 4 leagues. N. N. K. (Irong gilcs and fiiiwlly. At fun-rife the E, end of Oneeheow byre from N. by E. to N. W. by W. diftant 6 or 7 le.igues. At noon OiicIibcow bore from S. W. to N. W by W, diftant 4 or j leagues, N. W. ftrong gales and fqually. At fun-rife the N. extremity of Oneeheow bore N. W. by N. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. At noon Atooi bore from N. N. E. to N. W. by N. diftant ^ or 6 leagues; Oneeheow N. W. diftant 1 or 11 leagues. ■ N. N. W. moderate breezes. Ai day-l^^iit Woahoo bore from E. by N. to N. E. by N. diftant 9 or 10 leagues. At noon Witetee B.-iy E. by S. and tlie Northern extremity N. W, by N» off lliore a miks. ^i APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. continued VievTt $/tbt N. W. America Schooner, df f SANOwicH-IstANDs. 'ii Jimt. FeL 23 a4 aj 16 *7 a8 J^ch I Latltud* North. Deg. Milt. Leneitude Far'iat. Eafl. Deg. Mill. fFlnds, fffaiher, and Remarks. 20 26 '9 34 , li 19 24 '9 ^3 20 19 »" 19 46 D/'jf. Min. Plearant breezes and fair. At i P. M. came too in Witetee Bay. Pleafant breezes from the Welhvard. In ditto. W. N. W. pleafant breezes. Athalfpaft 5 P. M. weighed, and flood for Owhyhce. At fun rife the body of Woahoo bore N.W. diflant 6 or 7 leagues; the E. end of Morotoi from N. by E. to N, E. by E. diftant 3 leagues ; the E. end of Ra- nai from E. byN. to E, diflant 4 or j leagues. At noon Wo- ahoo bore N. W. by N. ; the W. end of Morotoi N. W. by N'. the Eaflem extremity of Ranai E. by N. ; dillant 3 leagues ; theS.W. extremity of MoweeE. by S.; and TahoorowaE. S, E. W. N. W. pleafant breezes and fair. At fiin-fet Ranai Inire from • N, W. by N. to N. diflant 4 leagues ; Mowee from N. by E. toN. E. byE. ; Tahoorowa S. by E. At fim.rife Owhyhee bore from S. E; by E. to N. E.by E. diflant j or 6 leagues ; Mowee N. by E. half E. ; Tahoorowa N. halfW. ; Ranai N. N. W. At noon Owhyhee bore from E. S. E. to N. K. by E. diflant 4 or 5 leagues ; the Snowy Mo\mtains E. by S. and E. by N. ; Mowee from N. by £. to N. N. W. diftant 7 or leagues. 'S. light airs and fair. At fun-fet Owhyhee bore from S. E. to N. E. ; Monee N. N. W. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. At luii- rife Owhyhee bore from N. E. by N. to S. E. diftant 4 or 5 leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from N. E.by N. to S. E. quarter E. diftant 5 leagues ; Mowee N. diftant 8 or 9 le.tgiies. (N. W. light breezes and fair. At fun-fet Owhyhee bore from S. E. toN. E. diftant 4 leagues. At day light Owhyhce bore from S. E. half E. to N. E. diftant a leagues; Mowee N. to N. by W. fW. S. W. light airs, hot and fultry At fun-rife Owhyliee bore I from N. N. E. to S. S. E. ; Karakakooa Bay S. E. diftant 5 ^ leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from E, N. E. to S. E. half S. diftant 6 or 7 leagues ; Mowee from N. by E. to N. by W.; Ranai N. W. by N. ; Tahoorowa N. N. W. N. W. light airs and variable. At fun-fet Owhyhee bore from S. E. to E. S. E. half E. diftant 8 or 9 leagues ; Mowee N. to N. by E. half E. ; Ranai N. N. W. ; Tahoorowa N. by W. At fun-rife Owhyhee bore from N. E. half N. to S. i- , half S. diftant j leagues; Mowee N. N. W. diftant 10 leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore i.om N. N. E. to S. by E. half E. ; Karakakooa Bay S. £. diftant 17 miles. IhK' %.\'^ bore from iMowee N. N.byW. V . half S. leagues. Iialf b. i APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. cotttmued. Route of the N. W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich Islands. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eajl. Vat'iat, Eajl. /finds, FFi'ather, and Remarks, 1789. March 3 4 5 6 7 8^9 Dcj. Min. Mill. 10 Dig, Mitt, 21 II la ii 23 W. S. W. pleafant ami fair. At 4 P. M. favv the Ipliigenia coming into a Ii.iy, about 3 leagues to the Northward of Kani- kakuoa liay. At half rail 4 V. M. came to in 20 fathoms, otV Ifliore z iiilles ; the extremes of the laiiil from S. E. by S. ; the N. E. en J of Karakakooa S. E. ; anil the neareft extreme W. N. W. diflant 4 miles. {Variable; light breezes ami fair. Off Owhyhce, near Karaka- kooa Bay, wlicrc we (taid till the 6th. f Moi!cr.ite fea breezes, and cloudy. Latter part plcafant land. L breezes, and fair, (S. and E. light breezes and clear. At 6 A. M. weighed anchor. At noon the extremes of Owhyhce bore from N. to S. by E. j off Toe-yah-yali Bay about 5 leagues. At 7 P. M. came to in the Bay. r Firft and middle parts plcafant fea-brcezes and cloudy. Latter L pleafant land breezes. Off Owhyhce. r Firft part frefli land breezes. Middle and latter moderat'! fca- ! breezes and cloiulv. At j i P. M. weighed anclinr, with the < ._ T Iphigenia, for Wcahoo, At noon iMowoe bore from N. E. by N. to N. N. W. ; Tahoorowa N. W. by N. to W. N. W. ; L Owhyhee E. by N. to K. S, K. diftant 1 2 leaiiiios. K. a frefh trade wind, and fair. At li;n-fet the extremes of Ti- hoiro.va bore from E. by S. to K. half N. ; the K. point of Mowce E. b\ N. i Hanai from N. I- . by N. to N. N. \V. dif- tant 3 leagues; the N. \V. point of Morotoi N. W, byN.; Wcahoo N. W. by N. diliant i 2 leagues. At day li^ht Wca- liooborc from N. by W. to N.W. by W. d'.lUnt S '.cagues ; the N. W, point iif .Morotoi N. E. half N. At i.oun Woalioo 1,m le from N. bv W, to \V. by .N. diliant 6 or j !e.i;^ucs ; Morud.i from K N. K. t,i K. half S. ; Runai E. S. E. diliant 5 Icigues. Light breezes and variable. At fun-fct Woahoo bore from N. E. by N. to W. by S. At day-1'ght Woalioo bore from E. N. E, to \V. .v. W. i^lfWitctee liay 2 loa;;ucs. At 9 A. M. came to, in 11 falhoms, in Wii^ice liay, diliant 1 Uiile. Stiually and r.i'.n. Weii'lii'd and made fail for Atooi, «iili t!ic Illiigenia. At day-liglit Woahoo bore from E. N, E. tJ W, N, W. off Ihore 3 le.ii;iies. I \ %h. i APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. continued. Route of the N. W. Amehica Schooner, at the Sanowjch-Islanus. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eajl. Variat. Eefft. 1789. i6 Deg. Mm. 21 51 Peg, Mm Deg. M.-n, IVinds, IVeather, and Remarku r N. N. E. frefh breezes and fqiial!y. At 6 P. M. faw Atooi •j bearing N. W. by W, diOant 6 or 7 leagues. At daj -light l- was towed into Wymoa Bay by the natives. {Moderate fea-brecze and cloudy. At 5 P. M. weighed, and ftood for Oneeheow. At fun-fet Atooi bore from E. to N. W. by N. off (liore » leagues; Oneeheow from W. S, W. to W. half S,; Orehiia W. by N. r Moderate fea-breeze and cloudy. At day-light Oneeheow bore J from E, to N. E. diftarit 3 leagues. At noon Oneeheow bore from N. half W. to S. by K. half E. off (liorc 2 miles. At 5 P. M, came to, in 17 fathoms, abroad of a fmall vilhigc, called Rotairj the E, end of Oneeheow bore from S. S. E. half E. toN. half W.; Tahoorowa S. W.dillant 5 leagues. Fredi breezes and cloudy. At half pad midnight made fail, and dood to the Wcllward. At day light Oneeheow bore from . E. to N. N. E ; Tahoorowa S. W. by S.; the Iiijiigenia 3 I leagues to Windward. At noon Oncdieow bore from N, K. i to S. E, half E, off fliore 3 lc;igues. m m m TABLE ''■'akteiaiLJ^:-^ "i./ 'I N , T A B L E < 11 XV. Route o/the N. W. America Schooner, /r«« the Sandwich-Islands ta the N. W. Coast OF America. 1789. Mirch 1 7 18 20 21 2Z 23 24 25 26 a? 28 29 30 3' 2 4 5 6 7 8 Latitude North. Dcg. Min. 22 27 23 2 23 37 24 26 27 27 28 29 31 3' 33 33 33 34 35 36" 35 36 37 39 49 6 8 57 56 56 5 54 o 32 43 34 19 »7 59 59 47 •9 Longitude iaj}. Fariat, Eajl. fVinds, fVeather, and Remarks, Dcg. Mill. Dfg, Min • Variable ; fredi breezes anJ cloudy. At Ain-fet Onccheow bore fromN. N.E. to E. S. E. off (liore 1 leagues. At day-UglU Oneeheow bore from N. E. by E. to S. E. by S. off (hore 2 Iragiics. At 7 A. M, Tawtlie Iphigenia, At i fpoke to her. Variable j tVefh breezes and cloudy. At 6 P. M. Oneeheow bore from N. by E, to E. N. E. diftuiit j leagues. At noon plea- f.int breezes and clear. 'V. N. E. pleafant and clear. At 4 P. M. faw a fmall ifland bearing W. N. \V. diftant 4 leagues. At fun-rife ditto N. W, by W. diftant 2 leagues. At noon it bore N. by W, diflant 5 mil.'S. Variable ; plcafuit breezes and cloudy. At fiin-fetthe ifljndbore E. by N. diflant 5 or 6 leagues. At noon moderate breezeS| and fine, pleafant weather. E. N. E. frcfii breezes ar/i cloudy. E. by N. pleafant brcc.;c.s ;,nd fair. E. by N. to N. E. light breezes and cloudy. N. E. and N. N. E. pleafant breezes and fair. N. E. by N. to E. S. E. ditto, and cloudy. E. S. E. pleafant breezes and cloudy. At noon hazy. S. E. by S. ditto, and hazy. S. E. by E. light breezes Hud h.izy. EafteVly j pleafant breezes and fair. Variable j light airs, inclinable to calm. N. by E. to N. E. by E. light breezes and pleafant. E. N. E. light breezes and cloudy. At 1 A. M. E. byS. light breezes and fqually, with rain. At noon pleafa:!t. S. E.— S. S. E. and S. E. by E. fqually, with rain. S. to S. W. and \V. light breezes and cloudy, with fmall rain. W. andN. N. W. frefli breezes and finally. N. and E. N. E. flrong breezes, with hard fqualls of wind and rain. N. W. frcdi breezes, fqually, with rain. N. Welierly, and ditto, W. and ditto. S. W, ftrong breezes and clear, with a high, following Tea. At S P. M. fqually, with rain. At g A. M.conftant r»iOt At noon light airs, and conltant raiu. n •APPENDIX^ TABLE XV. concluded. Route tftht N. W. America Schooner, from //iitSandwich Islands <» the N. W, Coa$t «/■ America. 3?i«*. 1789. April 10 II 12 »3 14 16 »7 18 »9 20 21 22 2,3 «4 Latitude North. Diji. Mm. 47 48 48 28 47 Si 48 14 48 40 49 »5 49 34 Longitude Eaji. Variat, Eajl. 1 Finds, ff'aither, and Remarks, Dig. Milt, Dcg. Min, Varialile ; frcfli b1cc7.es and cloudy, with rain. N. Eallerly ; (irong gales, with rain, and a high fca. {W. N. W. and variable ; hard fqualls of wind and rain. Saw fcvcral fniall birds. {\V. N. W. moderate, fqiially, whh a liigh fea from the N. W. At 10 A. M. faw a fea-lion and a fea-guU. Several birds flying about tlie fliip. Troiu W. to S. p'.eafant breezes ; hazy, with fniall rain. {From S. byE. to S. W. cloudy, with fmall rain. At noon frcdy brccjres and hazy. / From W. by S. to \V. by N. plcafant breezes and fqiially. Paf- L fuig fqualls of r.iin, hail and fnow. f Fioni W. N. W. to N. by E. frclh breezes, with hard fcjualls, \ and fleet. Variable ; light breezes and clear ; fqually, with rain. Variable; light breezes, and fiuall, dri/.zling rain. {Variable ; light airs, pleafant bieczcs and fair. Wild-gccfe, (hngs, fea gulls, and gannets fccn. IN. Weflcrly; fiefti breezes and clear. Paffed fome drift-wood, and fca weed, and faw feverul whales. {?. \V. fair, and pleafant. At noon the extremities of ;'c coart bore from W. by N. to E. by S.; Noolka Sound E. N. E. diliant 9 or 10 Icagiics. (S. E. by E. light winds and clear. At fun-fet tlic extremes ot land bore from E. by S. to W. N. W. oft'fliore 3 Ica-iies. ; Nootka i^ound E. by N. didant 6 or 7 leagues. At lo A. M. Nootka Sound bore E. by N. diflant 7 or 8 leagues. f E. S. E. to W. S. W. (irong gales, and hard rain. At 4 A. M. J Nootka Sound bore E. N. E. diftant 6 or 7 leagues. At nooft. I rounded Hog Iflaiid, and anshorcd in Friendly Cove. t N D OF TABLES. ,».1 <-■•.•.■ ''■- APPENDIX- NO I. INSTRUCTIONS of tke MERCHANTS PROPRIETORS. 'f;^ 2o John Meares, Efq. commanding the Felice and Iphigenia. SIR, AS the profccution of Voyages to diftant countries muft redound to the honour of thofe who undertake them, by elucidating the obfcurities of Geography, and opening new channels for Commerce ; and whereas it appears that a very beneficial trade may be carried on between China and the North Weft Coaft of America, part of which was difcovercil by Sir Francis Drake, in the year of our Lord 1579; and confidcring that the fituition of China, both for the outfit of vcffels for the fur trade, as well as for the difpofal of cargoes, is fuch, as muft ihortly deftroy all competition, and give us the exclufivc polRnion of this valuable branch of trade, much to the advantage of our country : from thcfe confulcrations we have fitted out and equipped two good and fuffici- ent vcffels, for the purpofe of cftablifliing this branch of trade, viz. the Felice and Jpkigenia, And yon nrc hereby required and direfted to proceed with both veffels, with the utmoft difparch, to the North Weft Coaft if America. The moft expeditious route, we conceive, will be to proceed through the China Seas to the Southward, between Mindoro and Pclawan, and to the Southward of Magindanao; touching, if neceffary, at Sooloo; and palling round the Northern extremity of New Guinea, get as far to the Eaftward as the winds will admit, or you mr.y judge neceffary; ftanding then to the Northward of the Tropick, to obtain variable winds to carry you to America. As this is a navigation of great extent and duration, it is neceffary you (hould provide yourfclf with a fufficient 4|r flock \ ■]. •^''mmmm END X. if ^1 W} ftock of water, as nothing fo efTedlually checks the advance and progrefs of the Scurvjr as a plentiful allowance of that article. As the fuccefs of the voyage, in a great meafurc, depends on your early arrival at Nootka ; we define, that, if you find yourfelf detained by the bad failing of the Iphigenia, that you fcparate from her, and proceed fingly to America. You will give inftruAions to Captain William Douglafs to proceed, with the utmoft expedition, to Cook's River, and remain there as long as he may judge expedient; and from thence to proceed to Prince William's Sound ; and after remaining there until the trade fiackens, to proceed to the Southward, to Crofs Sound (which is fuppofcd to com- municate with the bay to the Northward of Cape Edgcombe) and along the coaft to the Southward, as far as Nootka; examining the Icveral bays and iflands, and making fuch flay in each as may be deemed expedient J endeavouring to arrive in Nootka Sound by the ift of September, 1788; where he will await your arrival till the 15th of 0«fto. ter : — And in cafe of your not appearing in that time, you will dired him to proceed to. China with fuch a cargo as he may be able to procure j and to leave a letter with one of the chiefs, communicating only his arrival and departure. The inhabitants of Nootka Sound being in expectation of arrivals, will, doubtlefs, provide a cargo of Ikins, which will become the prize of the firft fliip that arrives there. We, therefore, recommend to you, in the ftrongeft manner, to ulc the utmoft diligence in arriving there. During your ftay at that place, — which you will extend as long as you" judge proper, — we recommend to you to difpatch your long-boat, well armed, under the command of a prudent officer, to Wicananifti, twelve or thirteen leagues to the Soutb- waid of Nootka, where, wc underftand, many fine fkins may be procured. We recom- mend to you, afterwards, to proceed to Barclay's Sound, and accurately examine tlvc coaft to the Southward, as far as the Spanifli Settlements. Should the profpeft of trade be encouraging, you will then return to the Northward, examining the difllrcnt bays and harbours to the Northward of Nootka, particularly the coafls of Queen Charlotte's Iflands, as far as 55" North j or execute as much of this part of your Inftrudions as is confiftent with your arrival at Nootka by the ift of September, 1788. Should you, on your return to Nootka, find there the Iphigenia, you will, in fuch cafe, difpatch her to China with all the furs collected; anu. as we propofe returning her to you as early as poflTiblc after her arrival here, you v ill appoint with Captain Douglafs a time and place of rendezvous, that you may receive the inftrudlions and rc- frclhments. we may fend you next feafon. Wc leave it to y ur difcretion to winter upon the n. p p N D I X. the coaft of America, or at the Sandwich Iflands ; though, confidering the feverity of the climate, as well as the health of your people, and that little advantage in the way of trade is to be derived from the former, during the winter feafon, we conceive it will be more eligible for you to winter at the Sandwich Iflands, and return to the coalt early in March ; of which you will take care to inform the Indians at Nootka, that they may ex* pedt your return. Although you are abundantly provided with copper, iron, and other articles of trade, we muft recommend to you the drifted oeconomy in the application of them j as it ap« pears that the natives are fuch intelligent traders, that, ihould you be in the leaft degree lavilh, or inattentive in forming bargains, they will lb enhance the value of t*-eir furs, as not only to cxhauft your prcl'ent dock, but alfj to injure, if not ruin, ..,y future adventure. ^ As every perfon on board you is bound by the articles of agreement not to trade,— even tor the mod trilling articles, — we expeCV the fulled compliance with this condition; and we dial! mod alTurcdly avail ourfclvcs of the penalty a breach of it will incur. But as, notwithdanding, the feamcn may have laid in iron and other articles for trade — think- ing to efcape your notice and vigilance, — we direft, that, at a proper time, before you make the land ot America, you fearch the veffcl carefullv, and take into your pofleflion every art'cle that can ferve for trade; — allowing the owner its full value. I As other furs bear no proportion, in value, to thofe of the fea-ottcr, thefe are to be, of courl'e, the principal object of your trade. — Beavers and foxes, particularly the black fliins, are of confiderable value in China. Marten ikins will not bring more than one dollar each. L. We recommend to you alfo, as an objeft very dcfcrvingof your attention, the procur- ing as much whale-oil and whale-bone as poflible j for which you are provided with a fufiicient (juantity of calks. Ginfent^ and Snake-root are faid to be produced on the North Wed Coad of America : you will coUe(!:l as much of both thefe articles as poffiblc ; and you will bring with you fampks of the dilTcrcnt ochres and minerals which the natives ufe as paints. Mufcle-pearls are faid to be in great abundance on the North Coad of America :— Coral is alfo an article on the coad. You will bring as much of both as poflible. ;ii I A 2 Spars, APPENDIX. Spars, of every denomination, are conftantly in demand here :»Bring as many of thofe as you can conveniently (low; Hurft or Nourfc-flcins arc to be procured in abundance : — Their value here is twenty Spanifli dollars per hundred. As it appears that the natives arc ever on the watch to take advantage of weaknefs or negligence, it is ncccflary to be always on your guard, and to exert, at all times, the utmod vigilance and caution. At the fame time, however, we recommend, in the firongeA terms, the utmoft forbearance with them in every circumftancc where it may lower you in their opinion, or endanger your fafety. Humanity and your own intereft demand it. You will endeavour to propagate at Nootka, and at the Sandwich Iflands, the breed of your poultry of every kind : alfo of hogs, goats, and fhecp. On your arrival, you will land Comckela, who is a native of the Sound, giving him fuch prefcnts as you may think proper.' On your return to the Sandwich Iflands, you will land Tianna at Atooi, or any of the iflands he may defire. You will alfo give him fuch prefents as you think ufeful or ac- ceptable; and, if poflible, you will refcrvc fome of your flieep and goats as a prefent to this chief: as, by leaving them in his pofleflion, there is a better chance of their being taken care of, and incrcafing; and thus rendering thefe iflands the belt place of rcfrefli- ment in the world. We particularly diredt, that j'ou do not bring away any of the inhabitants of America, or the Sandwich Iflands; as there is no certainty that there will be any opportunity of returning them to their own country. Should you, in the courfe of your voyage, meet with any Rullian, Englifli, or Spa- nifli veiTels, you will treat them with civility and friendlhip; and allow them, if autho- rized, to examine your papers, which will fliew the objeft of your voyage: — But you muft, at the fame time, guard againft furprize. Should they attempt to feize you, or even carry you out of your way, you will prevent it by every means in your power, and repel force by force. You will, on your arrival in the firft port, proteft before a proper officer againft fuch illegal procedure; and afcertain, as nearly as you can, the value of your veffel and cargo ; fending fudi proteft, with a full account of the tranfadlion, to us at China. Should ¥^^ APPENDIX. Should you, in fuch confliA, have the fuperiority, — you will then take poflVffi^n of the veflel that attacked you, as alfo her cargo j and bring both, with the officers and crew, to China, that they may be condemned as legal prizes, and their crews puniihed as pirates. Recommending to you unanimity with your officers, and the ftridteft difcipline towardi your fliip's company, and wifliing you a fuccefsful voyage, • ' i We remain. Sir, Y-iUr obedient and humble fervants, (Signed), The Merchant Proprietors, China, December i^y '787* NO II. you, or wer, and Should ORDERS TO CAPTAIN DOUGLASS. Extraei of a Letter from Mr. Meares, to Capt. William Douglass, com' , mandtng the Iphigenia. SIR, AS foon as I have made the fignal for fcparation, you will pro- ceed to put the following Inftrudtions into execution j and, at the fame time, I beg leave to point out the neceffity of your ftridly adhering to the time and place that I have ap- pointed you to meet me; as on thefe, in a great mealurc, depend the fuccefs of the voyage you are engaged in. I have to acquaint you, that you will be allowed one per cent, on the cargoes of the Iphigenia and Felice, which will be paid after the fale of the furs. I need not remark how advantageous this may turn out to you j nor are you to imagine that it is done as an incitement to the performance of your duty to your employers; for if they had an idea that any inducement was wanting, they would not have conferred on you the prefent com- '" mand, "W*^*^-*i :|. E N I X. mand, nor have committed to your care the truft they have donej bin they were fcnfiMp, that when the Iphigenia was entruftcd to you, and fuch unlimited confidence repolcd in your honour, that nothing further was rcquifite to impel you to promote their inrereft. This is only to remind you of the confidence repolcd in you, and to caution you to be on your guard, and to ki-ep a good look out that your ofiicers and crew pundtually obey the articles they have figncd ; ii ,d that they arc not pcrniiiud to trade or traffic with the natives for furs, or any other valuable article: and it is my particular dcfire, that not even a curiofity be purchafed on the coaft of America, and as few as pofTible at the Sanilwith Iflts: — fuch an intcrcourfe only tending to gratify an idle and vain whim, at the cxpcncc of ihc infant comiucrcc now about to be cftablifl;cd. Should any illicit commerce be difcnvorcd to you, or by you, you will note the fame in the log-book, mentioHing the time and place of fuch dctcdlion, the articles pur> hafed, and the names of the pcrfuns concerned; fo that the ofl'enders may be brought to jiillice. You will take the articles \'o purchafcd into your own polfeflion, to be depofited amongft the cargo: and if any perfon on board your, (hip fliould have imprudently Ihippcd any articles ol commerce, you will feize the fimic for the benefit of your employers, — noting all the particular circumftances in the log book. .! You will keep a rcgifter of all the furs you purchafc, their q\iality, number, and prices given, in a book kept for that purpofe; fo that your employers may be a judge of your economy in the trade committed to your care. I need not point out the necelFity there is of hufbanding it, and taking every precaution that your iron and blue-beads do not be- come a drug amongft the nations you may chance to trado with. Your furs, when claflTed, arc to be packed in chefts. Let them be fmoakcd and cares fully put in, with heavy weights over themj fo that when they are produced at market, they may bear fuch an appearance as will enhance their value. u In your commerce with the Indians, I defire you totally to rejcift the /kins of the cub otters, as they are of no value ; and their puJthafe only induces the natives to deal de- ftruAion amongft them ; when, at a future peiiod, they would be more valuable. Otters tails are valuable; you will, therefore, purchafe all you can: but by no means encourage them to bring fmall pieces of otter-fkin, or old (kins, they being of little valuej and it likewife encourages the natives to be remifs in hunting the more valuable otter. The cutting of (kins (hould be difcouraged ; and by this means the trade would be much mended. Black Am APPENDIX. Black fox-fkins are very valuable; you will therefore purchafe all you can get. The river-otters, and inferior furs, I leave entirely to your own judgment to purchafe or not: but 1 beg leave to remark, that by direfting the purfuits of the natives entirely to the &a-ottcr, it may be the means of cncrcafmg their ftock of that valuable fur. The beaver, if black, will bring from ten to twelve dollars) t!:e river-otter from four to five: — Marten fkins, if black, are valuable) but thofe that are brown, are in little edimation. The fiiiall hurft-niins arc valuable, and are an objcd of commerce, being worth from ten to fifteen dollars per hundred. As there arc confidcrabic quantifies of ginfeng to the northward, I recommend your procuring as much as poITible; giving the natives to undetftand that their women and chil- dren fliovild be employed: and if you were to buy it only from them, it may be the means of turning their indullry to valuable account. During the time you remain in port, your carpenters may be employed in cutting down fpars, and fawing plank; particularly boat's knees and timbers, — all which bear a good price in China. The procuring oil is an objedl worthy your attention: — It is worth, in China, forty* five pounds fterling per ton; and whalc-bone, likewife, is very valuable. You will preferve faniples of all minerals. And I beg you to be particular in your en- quiries from what parts the natives of the Nortn procure their copper. When you return to China, as you will touch at the Sandwich Ifiands, I recommend to you to fill all your cafks with fait porkj which will fell well at China, or ferve for ft,, ftore for the next equipment of veflcls in your employers' fervice for the coaft of America. In Ihort, I recommend to your particular attention and ftudy to lade on board j'our veflcl all fuch articles as you may judge w:ill turn to account in China. Should you have any favourable opportunity, I recommend your Tilting fifli, viz. cod and herring, of which there are fuch abundance to the Northward. In all thcfe particu- hrs, you will be regulated by time: I have pointed out the refpedlivc value of thofe arti- gles; — your own prudence will do the reft. As you have a crew fufEcient for every pur- pofe. lli r:\ I ■■r-_ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 125 ■a ■21 Sf Ufi 12.0 6" Photographic ScMices Corporalion ^ \ ^. ■1>^ <^ ^.^^ v\ 79 WIST MAIN STRHT WnSTIR,N.Y. MStO (716) •73-4503 ) E N D I X. V 1 1') l' i n pofe, and their wages are high, To, in my opinion, their exertions for the benefit of their employers ihould be proportionably ftrenuous. From experience wc know, that mofl excellent rope may be made at the Sandwich Ifles. You will prohibit all (iHiing-lincs being purchnfed by individuals, and let them be bought on account of the (hip, made into cordage, and the overplus carefully put by, that it may be returned into (lore. Induftry and adlivity are the forerunners of good order and difcipline. By keeping your people thus employed, I truft you will be enabled to render a good and profitable account to your employers. You will take care to have a fair log-book kept for the concern. It is to contain every minute tranfaftion of your voyage, from day to day. You will therefore mention therein all purchafes you make of articles of commerce. You will alfu note tlown the good or bad behaviour of your officers and crew; and thus afford to their employers a medium to dldinguifli merit from worthkffncfs. This log- book is to be figned by yourfclf. On your return to China you will feal up your log-book, charts, plans, &c. &c. and forward them to Daniel Beale, Efq. Canton, who is the ortenfible Agent for the concern: and you have the mod particular injunflions, not to communicate, or give copies of any charts or plans that you may make; as your employers aflert a right to all of them, — and, as fuch, will claim them. Should you, in the coiirfe of your voynge, meet with the veffcls of any other nntlon, you will have as little communication with them as pofliblo. If they be of fuperior force, and defire to fee your papers, you will fliew them. You will, however, be on your guard againd furprize. Should they be either Ruffian, Englifli, Spanifh, or any other civilized nation, and arc authorifcd to examine your papers, you w'll permit them, and treat them with civility and friendfliip; but, at the f.ime time, you muft bo on your guard. Should they attempt to feize you, or even carry you out of your way, you will prevent it by every means in your power, and repel force by force. When I make the fignal to feparatc, or in cafe we ihould lofe company, you will pur- fue, without lofs of time, your way to the North Weft coaft of America, cither to Cook's River, or Prince William's Sound, whichever place, in your judgment, (hould be firft touched at. The mcftexptJditious route, I fliould imagine, will be, lo proceed to the Southward of the iflandof Magindanao, between Mindoro and Pelawanj touching, if ne- I ccflary. .-xiidiMMA^-i. ,-f — APPENDIX. ceflary, at SooloOj and palling round the Northern extremity of New Guinea, get as far to the Eaftward as the winds will permit, or you may judge neceflary ; (landing then to the Northward of the Tropick, to obtain variable winds to carry you to America. And as this is a navigation of great extent and duration, I recommend the moft particular care of your water, and that your crew have a plentiful allowance of it. You will remain as long in Cook's River and Prince William's Sound as you think eligible. I think it will be more advifablc to feek new places, than to wait the daily, but precarious fupplies, that may be brought you. As I mean to proceed dire(ft for Nootka Sound, and from thence purfue my courfe to the Southward; you will, therefore, knowing this determination, make your difpofi- tions accordingly; exploring every place between Cook's River and Nootka, particu- larly Crofs Sound, (which is fuppofed to communicate with the bay to the Northward o£ Cape Edgcombe) and all along the coaft to the Southward ; examining the feveral bays and iflands, and making fuch (lay in each as may be deemed expedient; endeavouring to arrive at Nootka by the iirft day of September, 1 7S8, where you will await my arri« val in Friendly Cove, — a plan of which I enclofc you. You will wait for me till the (irft day of November; when, 0.1 feeing nothing of me, on that day you will make the beft of your way to the Sandwich Iflands, and anchor in Wymeo Bay, in the ifland of Atooi; ren-.aining there twelve days ; when, if I do not arrive during that interval, you will pro- ceed toChina, and follow the directions I have given you; — leaving a letter with Taheo, or Abinui, communicating only your arrival and departure. But as nothing but fome ac- cident (hall prevent my arrival in Nootka by the time appointed, you may faithfully ex- pert to fee me there, to fettle our future operations. As one of the vclTels is to remain, and the other return to China, you will fee the ne- eeflity of thus meeting, in order that one velTel may put her cargo on board of that which returns. Il'fl /ill pur- Cook's be firft to the , if ne- ceflarv. In your examining the Northern coaft, you will recoiled Qiieen Charlotte's Iflands, in 55' North latitude. In executing this, you will do it as far as is confident with your arrival at Nootka by the iird of September. I have mentioned before, that every one is bound by the articles of agreement, not to trade for the moft trifling article. The fulleft compliance with this condition is expcAed by your employers, who will undoubtedly avail themfelves of the penalty a breach of B it i E N X. it will incur. But as, notwithftanding, the feamen may have laid in iron qnd other aiti.les for trade.—thinking to cfcapc your notice and vigilance, — I diredt, that, at a proper time, before you make the coall of America, you fearch the veflel carefully, and take into your pofleflion every article that can ferve for trade, — allowing the owner the full value for it. \ If •I*. ; 11 fe In addition to the other articles of commerce mentioned, you will bring a fample of the different ochres the natives ufc as paint. Mufcle-pcarl is in great abundance to the Northward, and coral ; you will procure as much of thefe articles as you can. As it appears that the natives are ever on the watch to take advantage of weaknefs or negligence, it is ncccflary always to be on your guards and exert, at all times, the utmoft vigilance and caution. At the fame time I recommend the utmoft forbearance, where it may not lower you in their opinion, and endanger your own fafety. Humanity and your own intcrcft demand it. You will be particularly careful to prefcrve a breed of the various animals put on board 30U for the Sandwich Iflands. On no account are you to bring away any of the natives of America or the Sandwich Ifl.mds, or any other iflands you may difcovcrj except your rcafons are fo cogent and ftrcr.g, as will enfure you the countenance of your employers. The introcludtion of woollens is of the utmoft confequence, could it be done amongft the people of America: — at all times ufe your endeavours to barter with them for fuch as you have on board. The great advantages that would accrue to your country, as well as credit to yourfelf, will make you attentive to this point. As there is a quantity of fpruce on board your fhip, you will, when you fee occafion, make it into beer, and ferve it out to your crew; which will be a confiderable faving of your fpiritsj — as thofe two articles will not be allowed your (hip's company together. Permit me to add, — that as you will be intitled to whatever praife may be due to your condudl, fo you will alfo bear any blame which may arife from want of attention to your employers' intercft. And you will promife, in my name, that thofe who diftinguifli them- fclves ly good order, fobriety, and exertion, as well as by obedience to your commands, ftiall •i r ^ APPENDIX. ftall meet with an adequate reward, either by promotion in their prefent employ, or by protedtion and recom.-nendation, Ihould they leave it. Recommending unanimity with your officers, and the ftrlctcfl: difcipline towards your ihip's company,— Felice, ai Sea, Fibruaryx, ij I remain. Sir, Your moft obedient fervant, JOHN MEARE& ^ NO III. INSTRUCTIONS to explore the STRAITS of JOHN DE FUCA, To Mr. Robert Duffin, Firjl Officer of the Felice. V, II SIR, YOU will proceed with the long-boat to the Southward of this port, in order to trade with the natives for furs j for which purpofe I have put under your charge fufficient articles of commerce. You are now fo well acquainted with the nature of a trip of this kind, that it would be needlefs to give you any inftrudtions for the condudt you are to purfue. Trufling intirely to your difcretion, I have confiderable hopes that you will prove fucccfsful, as you vifit the numerous villages feated along the fliore leading to the Straits of John De Fuca. You will enter this ftrait as far as you find any inhabitants, or prof, peft of furs; and as we had an hint of a diftant nation refidingup this fea, the exploring of it, fo as not to retard materially your courfe to the Southward, may be of confequenccj particularly if you ihould be fortunate enough to find a hatbour. B 2 When I I. ' ' N D X. h x f ' I it When you leave this ftrair, you will touch at Tatootche's Ifland, and at the villages feated along the fhores to the Southward. — I think it will be advifable to avoid Queenhithe. If the winds and weather Ihould be tolerable, fo as to permit you to purfue your courfe to the bay which we named Shoal-water Bay, it will be a particular fatisfadtion, if only to afcertain the exigence of another nacion, dillintft from that of Nootka; much more fu if that bay, or places adjoining, are capable of receiving Ihippiug. Ai it is impoflible to provide againft contingent circumftances, I therefore leave every other matter to your own prudence. I recommend to you, particularly, to be conftantly on your guard ; to keep your arms dry and in good order, and at nights to avoid anchoring in the vicinity of any large vil* lage or populous place : — and, I intreat you, above all things, to avoid any warfare with the natives ; but to let that humanity, good faith, and fteady line of condudt which has hitherto guided our actions, be the leading principles of your mind in all your proceed- ings. Your own goodnefs of heart will not, I truft, permit you to fandtion any dcpre> dations on the defencelefs favage nations with whom you may have intercourfc, by any perfon under your orders. You will take pofleflion of this ftrait, and the lands adjoining, in the name of the King and Crown of Britain ; and inftill into the minds of the inhabitants that you will return ihortly to fulfill any treaties of com'.nerce or amity that you may make with them, and for which you have my authority. I beg that you will keep a memorandum of your proceedings, take flvctchcs of the land, and make other proper remarks. I propofe waiting in this port until your return. Should any unforefeen accident, howevetj oblige me to leave it, you will proceed to Nootka, and join me there. Wiftiing you fucccfs, '?V I remain. Sir, Your moft obedient Servant, J. MEARES. FitlCI, P»rt Effnghtm, July 13/*, lySS, No IV. P P E N D I X. NO IV. COPY OF Mr. DUFFIN's JOURNAL. ON the 13th of July, 1788, left the Ihip, with the long-boat, manned and armed, bound to the Southward, to trade for furs and explore the coaft. At eight A. M. came to, in a fandy bay, at a fmall dillance from the ihip, to put the boat to rights. At II A. M. left this bay, after having got fome visuals cooked. This day, or log, contains i z hours, and ends at noon. i^b. — Wind from the South Eaft with conftant rains. At five o'clock came to in a fand/ bay oppofite to the village of Atiah. Came alung-iidc, a number of canoes ; but no ap- pearance of any furs : — Bought from them fome hurft-fkins and a few fifli, for beads. Thefe people behaved very civilly, not offering to commit any depredations : fired a mulketoon at fun-fet, as a fignal for the natives not to approach the boat in the night. — A. M. the wind We(lerly, and cloudy weather : at five o'clock weighed, and run to the village, and lay on our oars till 8 o'clock. Not feeing a fingle fkin, thought it advifable to proceed to the Sound, having a favourable wind. Steered Eaft and Eaft North Eaft along the coaft, at the diftance of a quarter of a mile. This coaft, in general, to a village called Nittee Natt, affords a very pleafant profped: — is moftly a fandy beach, but no foundings with 20 fathoms, within a quarter of a mile of the fliote. There are alfo a number of water-falls, and the furf breaks very high all along the coaft,. which lies Eaft and Weft, per compafs. At noon a pleafant breeze and cloudy weather. The point which forms the entrance of John De Fuca's fea, which I call Point Entrance, Eaft by South i Tatootche's Ifland South Eaft by Eaft, off the former four leagues, and from the latter ten leagues — latitude obfervcd 48° 38' North. I ^ih — Pleafant breezes from the Wcflward, and clear weather. At half paft one P. M. run into a fmall fandy bay, feeing two or three houfes there, and came to; upon which all the natives quitted the place, they being only filhcrmcn, taking their fi(h with them. Seeing no probability of getting any furs- here, I weighed and runout again, and came to off the village of Nittee Natt, a quarter of a mile from the Ihore; attempted to enter a rivulet there, but found too great a furf on the bar to approach, fo ran out and came to anchor in 10 fathoms, fand ; Point Entrance bearing South by Eaft — the village now off half a mile ; came jlong-fidc the chicf» named Kiffan j latitude at noon ^S' 34' North. If . 1 p p N D I i' »yk tfiil' — Plcafint weather, wind Northerly, at fix P. M. weighed, having purchafed fc-veral (kins, ran into a fandy bay, or rather cove, where there was a village, two cancel in company decoying us in, when, iiiimcdiately on our approaching the (hore, the na« tivc-s ail'eniblcd on the beach with fpcars, bludgeons, bows and arrows, &c. making at the lame time a difmal howling, ufing threatening poAures, which I thought was to prevent us from landing, but I was millakcn, for I had a fhower of arrows thrown round the boat, from a ruck at a fmall diftance from us, but luckily none hurt us ; feveral fell on the boat's awning, but did not penetrate through, upon which I found myfclf under the neci-lTity of firing at them, but was at too great a dillance to do execution. They then began to launch feveral large canoes, with a number of fpears, &c. on which, I difchargcd a mufketoon at one of them, but, I believe, did not wound any one. However, they immediately left her, and ran howling into the woods; I then faw a man come tunning down to the beach with a half-pike, which they had found means to take out of the boat, unknown to us ; I then perceived that was the reafon of their committing hodilities, being dcfirous of retaining what they had ftolcn. Upon my receiving the half-pike hoftilities ceafed. I hope there are none of them killed, though, at the fame time, they very richly dcfcrved it. Weighed and run out, feeing no likeli- hood of getting any furs. Steered Ea(l along the coaft, and palled Point Entrance at the diAance of half a mile. At half pad feven o'clock, feveral rocks lying off, and the furf beating very high, at ten P. M. came to in eleven fathoms i coral rocks. Calm all the night ; the water very fmooth. At day-light we found ourfelvcs a-breall a fmall village : feveral canoes came ofT, but no appearance of any furs. The people faid they were all fubjeft to Wicananilh; — behaved very civilly : — bought from them fome fiflj. At feven o'clock weighed, and rowed to the End up the flraits, it being calm. At nine o'clock, fprungup a light breeze from the Southward. This coaft lies due Eaft and Weft, per compafs. — Coafted along fliorc at the diftance of half a mile : foundings eleven fathoms ; feveral places no ground at twenty fathoms. — This coaft is entirely abed of rocks. At half paft eleven A. M. faw the entrance of a deep b.iy ; entered ditto at noon, it pro- niifing very fair for a harbour. — Latitude obferved, 48"' if North. iytJ:.-^At two P. M. came to in a fmall cove in three and three quarters fathoms, clofc to the rocks. Regular foundings along the bay, from fifteen to four fathoms, half a mile from the ftiore. This is an excellent harbour for veflels of about looor 150 tons ; but not water enough over the bar for a larger one, there being only two fathoms at high water, and the tide flows eighteen feet. The bay is a very fafe place for a (hip to ride in the fummcr months :— no wind can hurt her except at South Eaft, and then the bay being very deep, there cannot be much fea. It is alfo good holding ground, being a muddy and fandy bottom. The people here all claim Tatootche for their chief. They appear- ed, to us, to be a bold, daring fet of fellows -, but not being near any of their villages, 5 I was il i i i i lilMn i H llii «Ml Miiiii l.lj g; a i J>HK.i -r-r- A* P P E N I X. I was uiuler no apprchenfions. At fcvcn A. M. came along.fidc the boat (evcral canoes, with n great number of men in each. Several of tlic people attempted to cu.nc into the boat; I, at the fame time, defiling them to Icrep out, nut permitting any of them to come in; neither did any of the people in the boat fay, or ofi'cr to do any thing to them. One of the canors put off a little from the boat i when one of the favagcs in her took up a fpear pointed with niufcie-flicll, and fixed it to a llaft' with a cord made fall to it, at the fame time putting himftif in a poflure of throwing it, and fignifying, by his gcflurcs, that he would kill me : I, ut that time, took no notice of him, not tiiinking him Icrious. Upon infpcding, however, their canoes, I found them all armed with f|)c.irs, bludgeons, and bows and arrows; lall'opcrceivcdanumbcr of armed people amongll the trees on fhure, oppoficc the boat: I then found tliey meant to take the boat; upon which, I ordered the peo- ple to get their arms ready, and be on thi.ir guard, and narrow! v to watch the motions of the man with the fpear, and if he attimptcd to heave it, to flioot him. The words were fcarco uttered, when I fawthe fpear jull coming out of his hand at Robert Dividfon, quartcr-mal- ter and cockfwain ; on which I ordered them to fire, — which one perfon diil, and killed the man with the fpear on the fpot, the ball going through his hcai!. The rell of the people jumped overboard,and all the other canoes padt'lcd away. We inllantly had a fliowcr of arrows poured on us from the fhore j upon which a conllant five was kept on them, but with no effift, they Iheltering themfclves behind large trees. I was wounded in the head with an arrow immediately as the man fell. We weighed anchor, and pulled out with two oar?» keeping the reft of the people at the arms. Wc found the Ihore on both fides lined with pcople,armed with fpcars, ftones, &c. fo that it apjicarcd pbinly their intent was to take the boat. A great quantity of arrows and ftoncs came iiuo the boat, but fortunately none were wounded mortally. Peter Salatrafs, an Italian, had an arrow flicking in his leg all the time till we got clear of them, not being able to pull it out without laying open the leg, the arrow being bearded, and with two prongs; I was obliged lo cut his leg open to get it out, as it had penetrated three inches. The Chinaman was alfo wounded in the fide, and another feaman received an arrow near his heart. As loon as we got clear of them, wc made fail, and turned out of the bay. — Soundings as regular as coining in : — the wind Wefterly. Stood over to the other fliori.', meaning immediately to return to the (hip, as I foun." I;: natives intircly bent on milchicf, and that we could not |)rocced along the coaft wi. . :*vtv and without endangering our lives: — I alfo found my head very fore, the arrow aving penetrated into my Ikull, and would certainly have killed me, had it not been for my hat, which broke its force. At noon, pleafant breezes and clear weather; Tatootchc's Ifland South Weft. This place obtained the name of Port Hawkefbury, and the other bay 1 called Hoftility Bay. # i8.'/.v— - fi-- ^ P P E N I X. itih. — Pleafant wetthert wind South South Weft. At four P. M. tacked off the South (horc, four miles, and ftood over to the North fliore of the Straits. At feven o'clock tacked again off (horc, half a mil": at fun-fet the entrance of Port Hawkcfbury North by Eaft, Tatootche's Ifland South j Point Entrance Weft South Weft, off the Utter eight leagues, and from the former three leagues. Steered during the night North Weft by Weft, and Weft North Weft, with a pleafant breeze and foggy weather, and returned to the fljip. (Copy) ROBERT DUFFIN. NO V. Mr. MEARES's INSTRUCTIONS to Capt. DOUGLASS, on leaving the AMERICAN COAST. 'M 7oCapt. William Douglass, eommanding the Ivhiozvik. S I R, AS I mean to proceed, immediately on the launch of the North. Weft America, to the Sandwich Iflands, and from thence to China, — the whole charge of the Iphigenia and North-Weft America, will confequently devolve on you. Though I entertain the higheft opinion of your capacity to conduift fo weighty a charge, yet, neverthelefs, I think it neceffary to point out the route you are to purfue after I feparate from you. I have no doubt of your ability to put into execution any meafure or plan for the benefit of your employers : and as you have already given a con- vincing proof of this in your late voyage, fo in the aftive fcene that I am about to lay before you, I have no doubt but that your diligence and caution will be redoubled, to bring your future voyage to a happy conclufion. I take the liberty of mentioning this, as it will require yourutmoft attention, your utmoft application and perfeverance, to put into execution fuch plans as I ihall lay down for the benefit of your employers. As I place before you an extenfive field to employ your abilities in, I am well affured th it you will take advantage of this circumftance, and fhew the world, that in my opinion of you, I have not been miftaken. I In and APPENDIX. In order to put every meani in your power that I can to enfure fucccfs, I have fup> plied you with every fpeciei of ftores on board the Felice:— Yet, nevcrthelefs, from the fcantinefs of the fupply, — though all I am enabled to givr you, —you will have difficuU ties to conquer, which I forefcc will require all your vigilance to provide agiinft. The material fupplies which I have given you of flower and bread, will, I flatter nr felf, be of eflirntial confequence$, when added to thofc that you will receive at the Sandwich Iflands. You will there fait down your pork j in performing whitb, I rcconmond to you to be particularly careful, following the method which C.i|)tain Cook dirct-'N; as by not obfcrving this, Captain Colnctt, of the Prince of Wales, loll the gnatclt part of his provifions before he reached the latitude ot 30" North, on his proceeding to the cnnft of America. For this purpofc I have given you every cafk in my fliip, cxcipt the pround tier. The next object of your attention will be vegetables, particularly the yanij of thofc you will obtain fuch a quantity, as I triift will prove a great relrelhmenr, even on the American Coaft. During the time you are at the Sandwich Iflaml'!, I recommend your ferving no bread; as the abundance and variety of vigetabks will render it nced- Icf?; and fuch a faving, in your prcfent flatc, will tend m.it.rially to the fucccfs of your voyage, Irccommcnd the fame precaution in rcfpcd to your llowcr. ^ f charge As your flock of liquors is entirely cxhaufted, and having none to fupply you with, in lieu thereof I have fent you all the cflcnce of fpruce in my pofllflion, as alio meiaUcs, in order to make beer. You will ufe this fupply at your plcafure; and as there will not be mclaflcs fulFicicnt, I recommend to you trying at the iflrnds the experiment of b(»il- ing down fugar-canc; of which, Captain Cook made a plcafant and nu;rccablc beer for his crew: but if you can cffeft making a fyrup, it mud be particul.irly grateful to your people with tea, as I have no fugar to fupply you with, and your own is entirely gone. You will try the poITibility of diftilling runij for which purpnfe I fend you a flill and copper. If thefc points are happily cfTcifted, you will find yourfelf pnllclli'd of tlic rc- fources to put into execution the plan that I place before you. At all events, 1 have ihe ftrongeft reliance on your being able to conquer every difllculty. i In From the information which I have received from the Princcfs Royal, I think it ncccf- fary to warn you of the dangers attending your flay at thofc iflands; where a crew, Immerfed in pleafure, may become but too caly a prey to fo daring and refulutc a fet of pcopL-. — Your judgment will point out to you to draw your principal refourccs of provifions from Owyhee, the windward ifle. The danger of anchoring here, from the multiui le of peo- ple, is but too evident. With the bay of Mowee you arc acfiuaintcct : — Here I \sould re- commend you to anchor, if a fpot free from coral rocks caji be fojn '. For though Titerrec is fovercign of Mowee, Morotoi, and the .^diaccnt iflcs, yet the f.i(iVions fub- fifting between the Icfler chiefs, will, in nil probability, prevent their combining to C commit it I] \ i>l """""^fli** PEN I X. commit hoftilitiei on you. The didance alfo you lie from the Ihore of this iiland, will, in fome mcafure, tend to your fccurity i and amongd the whole group of thofe iflandt, I know no place fo eligible, provided good anchoring-ground can be found. When the trade-wind blows, it comes down in rcfrcfhing breezes from the fummits of the moun- tains, and meliorates the fcorching heat of the fun, — every where fo pernicious. If the trade>wind ceafes, and the North-VVcft winds blow, you have feveral large and capacious channels to put to fca through, and the danger of a Icc-fliore is removed : — and permit metoobferve, that this is the only (lation you can occupy amongd thefc iflands, where this danger is to be avoided j and it is a danger of fuch magnitude, that I mull entreat you, the moment jou fee it blacken in the Noith-Wcft, to put inftantly to fca, as the only means of fafcty. The favagc ficrccncfs of the people of Wahoo, will, I Ihould fuppofc, render your ftay at that iiland very fliurt. The popuioufnefs of Atooi may deter you from making any long ftay in Wyinco Bay: — You will therefore finally clofe your route at Onehow, where I truft you will guard carefully agiinft the art and cunning of Taheo and Abinui, for I think them dreadful, mercenary, artful vill ins. As they attempted to poifon the crews of the Prince of Wales and Pi inccfs Royal, you will guard againft fuch a diabolical defign, by infpcdting the cocoa-nuts, yams, water, &c. making the feller tafte each. From Tianna wc have a full knowledge of the extreme fubtilty of a poifun in their pof- feftion, which operates inftantaneoully on the vit.il powers. Should you difcovcr fuch an attempt, I recommend to you to feize thofe concerned ; and as a tranfaiflion of this nature cannot take place without the knowledge of Taheo and Abinui, fuch wickcdnefs ought to be made an example of. The commerce that the natives of Atooi have had with Europeans, has operated fo much on their natures, that too much cautioner vigi- lance cannot be exerted. On no account fuffcr more than one or two on your decks at a time. Keep people conftantly in your tops, with arms ready, your guns loaded and primed; and never per- mit the natives to fwim about the (hi])} or, moll alluredly, you will have your ca- blet cut. Itruft that you will procure a good fupply of cordage; and I fliould imagine that the mats, cloth, &c. might be held in as much requeft on the Northern ftation of America, as they are on the Southernj— you WfHl therefore purchafc as many as you think proper for the American market. 1 have great hopes that Tianna will be of confiderable fervice to you. — To this chief I recommend you to be particularly attentive. The placing him agreeable to his wiflies, either A P P N D I X. either on Owyhee, with his relation Tome Tomy Haw, the fovereign of that iflanJ and Atooi, or with hii brother Nawtnity Haw and family, on the latter ifland, is a point that 1 fed myfelf extremely intercftcd in. Whatever Tiannn's ambition may be on feeing himfelf fo powerfully fupported, yet we niuft not lofc fight of prudence in fet» tling our friend; and we (hall prove his trucll and moil faithful one's, in placing him exactly in the ftatioii wc took him from. VVc muft therefore not Kt his ambition ftimu- late us on the one hand, nor our own dcfires on the other, to raife our friend to a flation ever envied amongft mankind. Throuc^h the gcncrofity of Mr. Cox, he returns un- boundedly rich to the circle of his fricntli. Though greatly deferving in himfelf, yet the line of prudence mud not be pallid ; niul the example of Omai fhews us the danger attending the Imiles of fortuiu", even anonj^rt favage tribes. Independent of any other confideration, a fruitlels contell niij.',ht be entered into, which might eventually, be extremely detrimental. You will therefore difinil's him with fiich prelents, in addition fo what he hns, as you n)ay think proper to coiitVr on him; and as you know his lan- guage fo well, I entreat you to meet his ideas of happinefs as far as prudence permits, or circumllanccs put it in your power. . ''I t I't The ifland of Onehow furnilhes the pcaiUoyftcr. You will endeavour to make Tianna fenfjble of the trcafures they contain, and the importance of them to iisj and I have hopes, that during your (lay you will fully alcertain this point. If you think proper to ftek the new difcovcrcd ifland, faid to lie to the North Weft of Atooi, you will in this, as in every other point, be guided by your judgment. H As foon as the America is launched, I (hall proceed on my voyage to China, when vou will take on you the direction of future operations. As you have now fo fcaiity a fupply of fait provifions on board, and the obtaining fifli being very precarious, I recommend to you to make the beftof your way to the Sandwich Iflands, as foon as tin- America is re.idy for Tea:— but in this you will be directed by your judgment, and the fuppiics of fifli. Should vou procure enough of this article to permit you to remain on the coall till the end of October, — to employ this time to advantage, I lecommend to you to ttcer to the latitude 46° North, and trace as much of the coaft between 46" and 40° as you can ; as this month is eftecmed tolerably good. You may fortunately, by exploring this part of the coaft, light on fome new tribes, which I have the ftrongeft reafon to imagine inhabit thefe parts. I have a knowledge that the Spaniards obtained a prodigious number of otter- fkins, which were brought to Manilla in theGilleons, and from thence to China, where I faw them. lam morally certain that they were not procured to the Nortiuvard of 46", as no where did I meet with an atom of the manufactures of Spain, cither iron or copper. This portion of America is now all that remains to be known to usj and fo fortunate a C a moment, I'l E N I X. Ill moment may be feized to acquire a competent knowledge of this part of the coaft, as will either determine us in future to give up this Southern portion of the continent, as unpro- du(flivc of mercantile advantages, or feek the fea-otter in thefe parts. It becomes a queftion, where did the Spaniards procure thefc (kins? And this point I hope you will be able to clear up, fo as, next year, to enable us to take advantage of any difcovery you may nuke. I ever meant, at fome future period, to trace this part of the coaft. The necef- fity, however, of my immediately proceeding to Ch'^i, will prevent any expedition of this kind on my part j and your having the North Well America to affift you, will, I truft, enable you to pert'orni it efieftually, ihould you determine to fpend the month of October on the coaft: — But I leave this point to be determined by yc jr own judgment and con- current circumftances. The knowledj^c we have now obtained of the coaft of America, and of the periodical winds and fcafons, gives us an advantage over all competitors. The years 1790 and 1791 bid fair to be the moft productive that wc may ever meet with. Having thcfc flat- tcr"' t; profpcds before us, our exertions muft be redoubled, effectually to fwcep the coaft before any veflll can arrive from England. In order to accomplifh this, you will leave the Sandwich Illands as early as poflible in the year 1789$ and, at the fame time, for fear of accidents, or feparation, give your orders to Mr. Funter, that he may proceed, and put his part of the plan of operations into execution. The Northern diftridl of the continent, I leave to you L'nd the America; the Southern flation I fliall occupy myfelf,from China j and lam not without hopes, that by the firft of May, 1789. 1 fliall reach the coaft. I then (hall proceed as circumftances arife: — but let me range which way I will to the Southward, I fliall not attempt to go to the Northward of Nobtka. On your parr, I have no doubt of your arrival on the coaft of America fome time about the firft of April, 1789. By this time the monfoon will be fet in, which, ex- perience has taught w, blows clofe home to the American (hore. Therefore, to embrace the advantages which the monfoon offers, inrtead of going immediately to Prince William's Sound, as others have done, I recommend you to make the coaft to the South- ward : and as you have the credit of difcovering the Great Ifland, the North-weft fide of which, comprehending nearly four degrees of latitude, is entirely undifcovered; I there- fore recommend your making Cape Saint James, the Southern extremity of the Great Ifland, as the firft point on the continent of America. Should vou find yourfelf retarded by the North Weft America's being a bad failer, you will proceed fi igly ;o the coaft, leaving her to follow at leifure, to put into execution your iiUliudions; but this being a very unlikely circumftance, as you will probably find her PEN 1 X. her a prime failer, — in that cfo, ea(lern fliore of the fame, — and all the main continent from 50* 30' North, to 54" 30' North. Thus every inch of ground between Prince William's Sound and Nootka will be occupied and repeat- edly traverfed, except the North Weft fide of the Great Idand; and as here again you may expeft a further fupply fince you left it, I leave it entirely to your option and difcretion to permit the N. W. America to run down this ftation, on her way to join mc at Nootka. When you meet at the time appointed, you will write nie fully of your proceedings; and you will proceed with the Iphigcnia, with all difpatch, to Mcdnoi, or Coppei Ifland; where Itruft you will arrive by the tenth of September, or at Icaft before the North-wefters fet in. In performing this part of your inftruftions, I leave you to aft at difcretion, and as cir- cumdances arifc. You may meet with, or hear of other fliips being on your ftation, with whom you will have to contend; or other material circumftances, which may make n deviation from thefe orders neceflary. I therefore here leave you entirely free j as I muft; repeat, I do alfo in every other refpedt. I have pointed out the objeft of Copper Ifland ; and no feafon appears fo favourable to put a vifit to ic in execution as the month of Auguft; by which period, I truft, both you and the N. W. America will have fwept the Northern Aation efTedtually; at leaft, what remains to be done, you will order Mr. Funtcr to per- form previous to his joining me at Nootka; at which place I fhall await his arrival until the 20th day of November, 1789; when feeing nothing of him, on that day I Ihall pro- ceed to the Sandwich Iftands, and wait your and his arrival in Wymeo Bay, on the iilund of Atooi; or at the ancho ring-ground, the ifland of Onchow, until the firft day of January, 1790; when, neither you nor the N. W. America arriving, I fliall conclude that fome fatal accident has happened, and make the beft of my way to China. This period leaves fufiicient time for the completion of all operations ; yer 1 hope that the Iphigenia and N. W. America will reach the iflands by the firft of December, 1789. I here leave difcretlonal powers with you; fearful of circumftances arifing which no human forefight can guard againft. You will perceive how much I rely on your judgment and abilities. Favourable windsmay permit you to reach Copper Ifland bythe 1 ft of September; when you will explore the ifland, and endeavour to find a place of flielter againft the approach- ing equinoAial, — ever to be dreaded in high Northern latitudes. If the copper*ore is in I . ' - huge APPENDIX. fcuge maflcs you muft blow them up with powder, and lade on board as much as you can. w.th fafcty to yourfhip; and alfo of fandel-wood, or of any other fweet-fcented wood that you may find. Having performed this, you will embrace the Northerly winds which by this time will be fet in. and proceed diredt to join me at the Sandwich Ifles' as before inftrufledj-when the future operations will be adjufted for the returnine ihio to proceed to China» * ^ Wiihing you health and fuccefs^ Felice, FrUndly Cove, In King George's Serin J, Septembtr 20, 1788. I remain, dear Sir, Your very obedient Servant, Ji M E A R E S. \\ COPY '*Vfl ;1! APPENDIX. N° I. COPY OF THE MEMORIAL PrefcnUd to The House of Commons, May 13, 1790: — Containing every Particular refpedllng the Capture of the Veffeh In Nootka Sound. ir-i'i 'T*HE Memorial of John Mums, Lieutenant in his Majefty's Navy, moft humbly "*■ flicweth, — That early in the year 1786, certain merchants refiding in the Eaft Indies, and under the immediate protedion of the Company, defirous of opening a trade with the North Well Coaft of America, for fiipplying the Chincfe market with furs and ginfcng, communicated fuch dcfign to Sir John Macpherfon, the governor-general of India, who not only approved of the plan, but joined in the fubfcription for its execu- tion; and two vcflcls were accordingly purchafed, and placed under the orders and com- mand of your Memorialift. That in the month of Mirch your Memorialift difpatched one of the fuid vefllls, which he named The S:a Otter, under the command of Mr. Tipping, to Prince Wil- liam's Souiul, and followed her in the other Ihip, which he named The Nootka. That on your Memorialift's arrival in Prince William's Sound, in the month of Sep- tember, he found the Sea 0;tcr had left that place a few days before ; and, from intel- ligence he has fince received, the fhip was foon after unfortunately loft off the coaft of Kamtfchatka. That your Memorialift remained in Prince William's Sound the whole of the winter; in the courfe of which time he opened an extcnfive trade with the natives; and having coUcdted a cargo of furs, he proceeded to China, in the autumn of 17S7. That in the month of January 1788, your Memorialift having difpofed of the Nootka, he, in conjundion with feveral Britifli merchants refiding in India, purchafcd and fitted out two other veffels, named the Felice and Iphigenia; the former your Memorialift commanded, and the latter he put under the dircdion of Mr. William Douglafs. That your Memorialift proceeded from China to the Port of Nootka, or King George's Sound, which he reached in the month of May, and the Iphigenia arrived in Cook's River in the month of June. That your Memorialift, immediately on his arrival in Nootka Sound, purchafed from Maquilla, the chief of the diftrift contiguous to, and furrounding that place, a fpot of ground, APPENDIX. ift of ground, whereon he built a heufe for his occafional refidence, as well as for the more con- venient purfuit of his trade with the natives, and hoifted the Britiih colours thereon ( th he alio erefte I a bieaft-woik, which furrounded the houfe, and mounted one thrce- pounder in front ; that having fo d )ne, your Memorialift proceeded to trade on the coaft, the Felice taking her route to the Southward, and the Iphigenia to the Northward, con- fining themfelvs within the limits of 60" and 450 30' North, and returned to Nootka Sound in th : month of September ; that on your Memorialiil's arrival there, his people, whom he had left bihind, had nearly compieated a veflel, which, previous to his depar- ture, he had laid down ; and that the faid veflel was foon after launched by your Memo- rialift, and called the Nerth-Weft America, meafuring about forty tons, and was equip- ped with all expedition to aflill him in his enterprizes. That, during the abfence of your Memorialift from Nootka Sound, he obtained from Wicananilh, the chief of the diftridt furrounding Port Cox and Port Effingham, fituated in the latitudes 48* and 49*, in confequence of confiderable prefents, the promife of a free and txclufive trade with the natives ofthe.diflriR, and alfo his permifTion to build any (lore- boufes, or other edifices, which he might judge neceflary; that he alfo acquired the fame privilege of exclufive trade from Tatootche, the chief of the country bordering on the Straits of John De Fuca, and purchafed from him a tra£t of land within the faid (Irait, which one of your Memorialift's officers took pofleffionof in the King's name, calling the fame Tatootche, in honour of the chief. That the Iphigenia, in her progrefs to the Southward, alfo vifited feveral ports, and in confequence of prefents to the chiefs of the country, her commander had ^iFurances given to him of not only a free accefs, but of an exclufive trade upon that coafl, no other European vcfTcl having been there before her. That your Memorialift, on the 23d of September, having collected a cargo of furs, proceeded in the Felice to China, leaving the Iphigenia and the North-Weft America in Nootka Sound, with orders to winter at the Sandwich Iflands, and to return to the coaft in the Spring. That your Memorialift arrived in China early in the month of December, where he fold his cargo, and alfo the Ihip Felice. That a few days after your Memorialift's arrival in China, the fliips Prince of Wales and Princefs Royal, fitted out from the Port of London by MefTrs. John and Cadman Etchea and Co. came to Canton from a trading voyage on the North Weft Coaft of Ame- rica; and your Memorialift finding that they had embarked in this commerce under licences granted to them by the Eaft India and South Sea Companies, which would not expire until the year 1790, and apprehending at the fame time that the trade would fuf- fer by a competition, he and his partners aflbciated themfelves with the faid MefTrs. Etches and Co. and a formal agreement was executed in confequence between your Me- morialift and Mr. John Etches, then fupracargo of the two ihips, making a joint ftock D of ! •' 1'; ,1> APPENDIX. I > % a. of all the veffels and property employed in that trade ; and under that firm they pur- chafei a (hip, which had been built at Calcutta, and called her the Argonaut. That the Prince of Wales having been chartered to load teas for the Eaft India Com< pany, foon after returned to England j and the Princefs Royal and Argonaut were ordered by your Memori.ilid to fail for the coad of America, under the command of Mr. James Colnett, to whom the charge of all the concerns of the company on the coaft had been committed. Mr. Colnett was dircfted to fix his refidencc at Nootka Sound, and, with that view, to ereft a fubftantial houfe on the fpot which your Memorialift had purchafcd in the pre- ceding year; as will appear by a copy of his inftruftions hereunto annexed. That the Princefs Royal and Argoniut, loaded with ftores and provifions of all defcriptions, with articles eftimated to be fufficicnt for the trade for three years, and a veflel on board in frame, of about thirty tons burthen, lift China accordingly in the months of April and May, 1789. They had alto on board, in addition to their crews, feveral artificers of different profefTions, and near feventy Chinefe, who intended to be- come fettlers on the American coad, in the fervice, and under the protedion of the af- fociated company. That on the 24th of April, 1789, the Iphigenia returned to Nootka Sound; and that the 'North- Weft America reached that place a few days after: that they found, on their arrival in that port, two American veflTels, which had wintered there ; one of them was called the Columbia, the other the Wafliington : that on the 29th of the fame month, the Nortk-Weft America was difpatched to the Northward to trade, and alfo to explore the Archipelago of St. Lazarus. That on the 6th of May, the Iphigenia being then at anchor in Nootka Sound, a Spanilh (hip of war, called the PrincelTa, commanded by Don Stephen Jofcph Martinez, mounting twenty-fix guns, which had failed from the Port of San Bias, in the Province of Mexico, anchored in Nootka Sound, and was joined on the 13th by a Spani(h fnow of fixteen guns, called the San Carlos, which vefTel had alfo failed from San Bias, loaded with cannon and other warlike (lores. That from the time of the arrival of the Prince(ra until the 14th of May, mutual civi- lities palled between C^aptain Douglas and the Spani(h officers, and even fupplies were obtained from Don Martinez for the ufe of the (hip; but on that day he. Captain Douglas, was ordered on board the Princc(ra, and, to his great furprize, was informed by Don Martinez, that he had the King's orders to feize nil (hips and vcffeh he might find upon that coaft, and that he, the Commander of the Iphigeniii, was then his pri- foner: that Don Martinez thereupon inftrudted his officers to take po(rc(rion of the Iphi- genia, which they accordingly did, in the name of his Catholic Majcily, and the o(ficcrs and crew of that (hip were immediately conveyed as prifoners on board the Spani(h (hips, where they were put in irons, and were otherwife ill treated. That ,:-!^(r ..siAtS; APPENDIX. That That as foon a» the Iph'genia had been fetzptl, Don Martinez took poflTcfllon of the iands belonging to jour Mcmorialift, on which his temporary habitation before mentioned had been ercdled, hoifting thereon the ftjndard of Spain, and performing fuch ceremo- nies as your MemorialiA underftands arc ufual on fuch occalions; declaring, at the fame time, that all the lands comprized between Capo Horn and the fixticth degree of North latitude did belong to his Catholic Majefty ; he then proceeded to build batteries, (lore, houfes, &c. in the execution of which he forcibly employed fome of the crew of the Iphigenia, and many of them who attempted to refift were very fevcrely puniihed. That during the time the commander of the Iphigenia remained in captivity, he had frequently been urged by Dun Martinez to fign an inihument, purporting, as he was in« formed, (not underllanding himfelf the Spanifh language) that Don Martinez had found him at anchor in Nootka Sound ; that he was at that time in great ditlrcfsi that he had furniflied him with every thing neceffary for his pafl'age to the Sandwich iflands ; and that his navigation had in no rcfpcdt been molefted or interrupted : but which paper, on in- fpedtion of a copy thereof, delivered to Mr. Douglas, and hereunto annexed, (No. II.) appears to be an obligation 'from him and Mr. Viana, the fecond captain, on the part of their owners, to pay on demand the valuation of that veflel, her cargo, &c. in cafe the Viceroy of New Spain Ihould adjudge her to be lawful prize, for entering the Port of Nootka without the permidion of his Catholic MajcHy: that Captain Douglas, conceiv< ing that the port of Nootka did not belong to his Catholic Majefty, did frequently refufe to accede to this propofal ; but that Don Martinez, partly by threats, and partly by pro- mifes of reftoring him to his command, and of furnifliing hiin with fuch fupplies of (lores and provifions as he might (land in need of, ultimately carried his point; and hav- ing fo done, he, on the 26th of the fame month, was rcftored to the command of the Iphigenia, but rcftrained from proceeding to fea, until the return of the North-Weft America ; infifting that he fhould then difpofe of her for 400 dollars, the price which one of the American captains had fct upon her. That during the time the Spaniards held pofleflion of the Iphigenia, flie was flripped of all the merchandize which had been provided for trading, as alfo of her florcs, pro- vifions, nautical inftruments, charts, &c. and, in fliorr, every other article (excepting twelve bars of iron) which they could conveniently carry away, even to the extent of the mafter's watch, and articles of cloathing. That the commander of the Iphigenia, finding himfelf thus diftreffed, applied for re- lief, and after much folicitation obtained a trifling fupply of ftorcs and provifions, for which he wai called upon to give bills on his owners. The articles lb fupplied were charged at a moft exorbitant price, and very unequal in quality or quantity to thofc which had been taken from him. That notwithllanding what had been infifted on by Don Martinez, refpefling the falc of the North Weft America, he. had conftantly refulcd to difpofe of that vellel on anf :> Da ground. )| 'I't ■I I i '■^('^ ■J! APPENDIX. gteand, alleging that, as fhe did not belong to him, he had no right to difpore of her; that the North-Weft America not returning Co foon as was expeAed, he, Capt. Douglas, was told by Don Martinez, that on his ordering that vcflel to be delivered to him for the ufc of his Catholic Majefty, he (hould have liberty to depart with the Iphigenia ) that ho accordingly, on the firft of ^une, wrote a letter to the maftcr of the North-Weft America, but cautioufly avoided any dircdions to the effcd defired, (vide Iphigenia't. Journal) and availing himfelf of Don Martinez's ignorance of the Engliih language, he inftantly failed from Nootka Sound, though in a very unfit condition to proceed on fuch a voyage, leaving behind him the two American veftels which had been fuffered to con-i. tinuc there unmolefted by the Spaniards, from the time of their firft arrival ; that the Iphigenia proceeded from thence to the Sandwich Iflands, and after obtaining there fuch fupplies as they were enabled to procure with the iron before mentioned, returned to China, and anchored there in the month of (Xtober, 1 789. Your Memorialift thinks it neceflary upon this occafion to explain, that in order to> evade the ezcellive high port charges demanded by the Chinefe from all other European nations, excepting the Portuguefe, that he and his aflbciates had obtained the name of Juan Cawalhoto their firm, though he bad no adtual concern in their ftock ; that Cawalho> though by birth a Portuguefe, bad been naturalized at Bombay, and had refided there for many years, under the prote£tion of the Eaft India Company, and had carried on aik cxtenfive trade from thence to their feveral fettlements in that part of the world. That the intimacy fubfifting between Cawalho and the governor of Macao had been the principal caufi; of their forming this nominal conne<5tlon ^ and that Cawalho had in con- lequence obtained his permiffion that the two ihips above mentioned, in cafe it fliould be found convenient fo to do, fhould be allowed to navigate under, or claim any advantages, granted to the Portuguefe flag. That this permtflion had anfwered the purpofe of your Memorialift, (0 far as refpedled the port charges of the Chinefe, until the return of the Iphigenia } but the Portuguefe Governor dying foon after her departure, and CaWalho becoming a bankrupt, his cre- ditors demanded his intereft in that flupi that your Memorialift having refifted their claim, an application was made by them to the fucceeding governor for pofleftion of the- fiiip; that the governor had, in confequence, inveftigated the tranfaAion, and finding^ that Cawalho had no a^ual concern or intereft in the properfyv obliged her to quit the port } that this proceeding had fubjefted the Iphigenia at once to the iiKceafed port charges, which were inftantly demanded by, and paid to, the Chinefe. Your Memorialift has ftated this tranfaftion thus fully, in order to fhew that the Iphi- genia and her cargo were a6tuaMy and boiidfidt Britifti property, as well as to explain the occafion of the orders which were given to her commander, extracts of which accompany this, and are referred to in the journal of that fliip» having beea under the infpedion of Don Martinez^ Your A P T» E N D I X. Vour Memorlalill further begs leave to (late, that after the departure of the Iphigenia, Don Martinez became apprized of the purport of the letter with which he had been fur- niflied ; and that, on the return of the North- Weft America off the port of Nootka, on the 9th of June, ihe was boarded and fcized by boats manned and equipped for war, commanded by Don Martinez; that he did tow and convey the faid vcflcl into the Sound, and anchoring her clofc to the Spaniih (liips of war, did then take poflefTian of her in the itame of his Catholic Majcfty, as good and lawful prize ; that the above mentioned veflet was foon after hauled alongfide of the Spaniih frigate ; and that the officers and men, to- gether with the (kins which had been collected, amounting to 215, of the bed quality, and alfo her (lores, tackle, and furniture, articles of trade, &c. were removed on board the Spani(h frigate { that the commander of the North-Weft America, his officers and men, were accordingly made prifoners, and Mr. Thomas Barnect, one of the officers of that ve(rel, and fome of her men were, as appears by the affidavit of William Graham, one of the feamen belonging to that velTel, hereunto annexed, (No. IV.) afterwards put in irons. That the Princefs Royal arriving a few days after the feizure of the North-Weft Ame- rica, and being allowed by Don Martinez to depart, the (kins coUcifled by the laft men- tioned ve(rcl (excepting twelve of the beft quality, which Don Martinez thought fit to detain) were returned to the mafter, and, with the permiffion of Don Martinez, were (hipped on board the Princefs Royal, for the benefit of the owners ; and that (hip, as appears by her Journal, put to fea on the ad of July, to purfue the trade upon the coaft. That Don Martinez, after feizing the North-Weft America in the manner and under the circumftances above ftated, employed her on a trading voyage, from which (he re- turned after an abfence of about twenty days, with feventy -five (kins, obtained by Britifh merchandize, which had either been found in that velTel at the time of her capture, or had been taken from the Iphigenia ; and that the value of the furs fo collcded cannot, upon a moderate calculation, be eftimated at Icfs than 7,500 dollars, and which Don Martinez had applied to his own advantage. That the Argonaut arrived off" the Port of Nootka on or about the 3d of July, 1789, That Don Martinez, on obferving her in the offing, boarded her in his launch, and with expreffions of civility, promifed Mr. Colnett, her commander, every affiftance in hi& power; that before the Argonaut entered the Sound, Mr. Thomas Barnett (who had be- longed to the North-Weft America, and who was then a prifoner) came off in a canoe,, and informed Mr. Colnett of the proceedings which had taken place, and of the danget to which he was expofcd ; but that, under the afturances given by Don Martinez, that the Argonaut (hould remain unmolefted, and being in wantof rcfrefbments for the cre\v> Mr. Colnett proceeded into Nootka Sound. That, notwtthftanding the afluranccs given by Don Martinez, he, on the next day, fent the firft lieutenant of the Piincefla, with a military force, to take pofTeffion of the Argonaut^ f 4\ P P E N D I X. t ' K h I i ' Argonaut i nnd that ihip wat accordingly feizeil in the name of h'n Catholic Majcfty, th« Britilh flag was hiukd down, and the Spanifh flag holfted in its Head. Th»t on the fi-tzure of the Argonaut, her oliicers and men were made prifonera) and Mr. Culnert was threatened to be hanged at the yard arm, in cafe of his refuling com> pliance with any directions which might be given to him. That on the 13th of July, the Princefs Royal, as is Aated in her Journal, again ap. pcared ofl* the I'urr of Nootka ; that her commander approaching the Sound in his boat, in cxpet^^ation of finding there the commnnder of the expedition, (from whom he was dcfitous of receiving inAtudlions for his future proceedings) was fcized and made prifoner I))" Don Martinez, and under threats of hanging him at the yard-arm, forced him to lend orders to his officers to deliver up the I'rincefs Royal without contcft. That a Spnnifh officer was ciifpatchcd into the offing with thefe orders ; and that the veflcl was accordingly ft.'ized in the name of his Catholic Majefty, and brought into port ; that her crew were in confequence made prifoncrs ; and that her cargo, confiding of 473 ikins, including 203 which had been put on board her from the North-Weft America, as appears by the inclofed receipt, (No. V.) was feized. That Mr. Colncrt, from the circumdances of his capture, became fu deranged, that he attempted frequently to deflroy himfdf ; and that, according to the laft accounts re- ceived, the ftate of his mind was fuch as to render him unfit for the management of any bufinefs which might have been entrufltd to his care ; that in this melancholy fituation, however, Don Martinez, notwithftanding the vcflel and cargo had before been formally fcized, attempted to procure from him the falc of the copper, of which a principal part of the cargo of the Princefs Royal had been compofedi and that fuch fale would adtually have taken place, had not the other officers of that veflel, feeing Colnetc's infanity, pre- vented ir. Your Memorialift farther begs leave to reprefent, that the American Ihip Columbia intending to proceed to China, the crew of the North-Weft America were ordered by Don Martinez on board her ; principally, as your Memorialift underftands, for the pur- pofe of aflifting her in her navigation to China, the greateft part of her own crew, as well as of her provifions, having been previoufly put on board the Walhington, in order that Ihe might be enabled to continue on the coaft. That the Columbia having reduced her provifions confiderably from the fupplies (he had fpared to her confort, was furniihed from the Argonaut, by order of Don Martinez, with what was neccffary for her voyage, faid to be intended, however, for the fupply of the North-Weft America ; that previous to the departure of the Columbia, ninety-fix Ikins were alfo put on board her, as appears by the paper hereunto annexed, (No.VI.) to defray the wages of the officers and crew of the North-Weft America, under a fup« pofition that their late employers would be unable to liquidate tbcir demands ; firft de* dufting. APPENDIX. dudttng, however, thirty per cent, from the fairs, which Don Martinez hid agreed flioutd be paid for the freight on the faid flcins to the Arm-rican commnnvlen. That the Colufnbia, thus fupplied, left Nuotka Sound accordingly, and proceeded to the Southward i that a few days after (he entered Port Cox, where Ihc was joined by her confort the Walhington, from whom (he received a confidorable number of (kins, con- ceived to be the whole, excepting the ninety-fix before mentioned, which had been col- ledled by the Americans and Spaniards, as w.:ll as by the Hriiiih traders; and with which, after fparing a further qunntity of provifions to the Wa(hingfon, the Coiumbii proceeded to China, where Hie arrived on the 2d of November, and landed thf*. crew of the North- Weft America. That the cicw of the North-VVcft America, previous to their leaving Nootka Sound in the Columbia, faw the Argonaut proceed, as a prize, to San Bias; and that her of- ficers and men, who were Euiopeans, were put on board her as prifoners; and that the Princefs Royal was fliortly to follow, with her crew in confinement in the fame manner. The Walhington, on joining the Columbia in Port Cox, gave information that the Prin- cefs Royal had alio failed for San Bias. That Don Martinez had thought fit, however, to detain the Chinefe, and had com- pelled them to enter Into the fcrvice of Spain ; and that, on the departure of the Colum- bia, they were employed in the mines, which had then been opened on the lands which your Memorialift had purchafed. Your Memorialift begs leave to annex a depoHtion of the ofTiccrs and crew of the North-Well America, together with an extraft of the Journal of the Iphigenia, and alfo fome letters which he has received from Mr. Diiffin, fecond officer of the Argonaut ; which papers will ferve to throw confider.iLlc light on the feveral tranfadtions alluded to in this Memorial : He alio has fubjoined a rtattment of the at^ual as well as the probable lollcs which he and his aflTociates have fuftained from the unwarranrp.ble and unjuftifiable proceedings of Don Martinez, in open violation of the treaty of peace fiibfifting between this country and the Court of Sjviin, and at times and in fituations where, according to the common laws of hofpitaliiv, they might have expedVed a different conduifl. Your Memorialift therefore moft humbly begs leave to fubmit rhe c;Tfe of himfelf and hisalTociatcs to the confidcration of Government, in full confidence th it the proper and necclfary meafures will be taken to obtain that redrefs, which he and his alTociatcs have, as Britifli fubjedts, a right to cxpcft. Londortt lotb ef Apuly 1790. (Signed) JOHN MEARES. Your Memorialift alfo begs leave to annex an acktiowlcdgment given by Don Martinez, of his having obtained poflcflion of the North-Weft America. (No. XI.) j. M. \\ ;ltl No. II. H- APPENDIX. N" II. COPY of a LETTKR/ro« Mr. MEARLS t» CAriAiN COLNETT, ditttH ipb April, 1789. [/« >fr. Mcarcs's Memorial »/ 30/* Jpril, 1790. No. I ] S 1 R, Mmao, t7iti April, 17I9, \f ' f ill SO loon as the Argonaut is ready for fca, you will proceed on your voyage, and put into execution the fcveral plans wc have laid down, and with which you are lb thoroughly acquainted; you are alfo Co perfectly informed of the bafis they are founded on, that any recapitulation here would be needlefs. We place the flrongeft reliance on your pcrfevcrance, temper and prudence, and are convinced that our hopes can only be matured but through in exertion of thofe difpofitions. We (Ircnuoufly recom< mend a moderate ufeof the powers you are invefted with, not only in your tranfaiflions with (hips of foreign nations, — who mull be treated with that good faith and generofity which form the charadtcriflic of the Englifh nation, and which muft turn ultimately to the honour and credit of your employers, — bur. to all Ihips of our own nation, to whom we deflrc you to be particularly attentive in cafes of diflrer$,or any other calamitous fituation they may be thrown into. We imprefs on your mind this point, not only for the honour and credit refulting to us from fuch a liberal line of conduA, but from the abfolute neceflity of avoiding all fubjedt of difpute with foreign powers : we hope that no motive whatever will induce you to deviate from this point { as we aflure you, that a commerce that is not carried on with honour and refpedability, as well as humanity, would be entirely repugnant to our feelings as men, and charadlers as Britifti merchants,— a charac- ter, which appears to us in fo refpedlablea light, that no emolument, no advantage what* ever, would perfuade us to countenance the fmalleft deviation from it in the perfons and adts of thofe we employ. Reports having been fprcad of great ads of cruelty and inhumanity being committed by the crews of various velTels on the coaft of America, in their commerce with the natives, we now embrace the earlieft opportunity of exprelling our utter abhorrence of fuch boAile adts: wefmcerely hope that no perfon or perfons in our employ, will have caufe to be reproached with any thing of this kind— adts, which we never will countenance or protedt; on the contrary, we ihall ufe every means in our power to have the perpetrators puniihed. We therefore moft particularly order, that if, in the courfe of your command, any perfon or perfons whatever, in our eroployj ihall commit any murder on the natives of 5 America, 1?^ ^ 1/ A P P i: N D I X. Americ.1, or on others, that you fcizc thcoffcnilers, ami put them in iron*, aiul Icnil tlicui to the npcnts in China, in order thut they may be broiip.ht to comli^n p.iniflimcnti \vc arc lure ncceflltateil to tUvcU on this riil)jed, from the flronp; rcp^v^ ^( 'n«-'li atrocious a>it* being committti), which arc at once not only iltllruftive ot the comnurce, but ol cvervfen- tiuifnt of humanity; we recomiucnil a fteatly purfuance of a iiiildtoiulin.'t,as the only mean* to cuUivutc the good-will of the natives, and draw them within the verpjes of civilized life. Wc reconiniLiul in vou, if pofTible, to form i treaty with the various chiefs, particularly near Nootka. If you happily accomplifli this, \in\ at once become polFeiFed of the furl of ii great ''illrld witli honourand ctedir, and without iiKUMing a ftigma; and, if there i( a polFibility of concpiering our competitors, we beg it may be if a mode honourable to ourfelvcs, and conduced with as much gentrofity and humanity as a {\f\t\ attention to our bufinefs will admit. On the flrength of a treaty wc form confidcrabic hopes; for, although at the rtM>'".»ent it may not be produdVive, yet in time it will be found the moft Itabic way of accompl *>- ingour wiflics, and gaining the confidence of the chiefs, who are known to manage t!i« commerce of their fubjeds: for this purpofe wc have ruj>plied you abundantly with every article known to be had in eflimation atnong them; and i'.i anxious are we to have a good underftanding, an«l the perfidiiig a treaty, that wt :iiithorite you to tyke under your pro- tedion all our allies, and protcdt them from infult from all pcrfons whatever. Our fen- timents on this head you will make known to all perfons whuif" it tM) concern, in order that they may govern themfelves accordingly. You will keep a diary of your proceedings, in which every minute occurrrni-e is to be recorded j and you will forward this account of your proceedings, from time to tunc, by all opportunities. In planning a factory on thecoaft of America, wc look t.) a folid cftablifliment, and not one that is to be abandoned at pleafurc. Wc authorifc jou to fix it at the moll conve- nient ftation, only to place your colony in peace and ficurity, and fully protedcd from the fear of the fmalleft finifter accident. The objed of a port of this kind, is to draw the Indians to it, to lay up the fmall veflels in the winter fcafon, to build, and for other com- mercial purpofcs. When this point is cfTcdcd, different trading houlls will be cftablilhed at ftations, that your knowledge of the coaft and its commerce point out to be the moll advantageous. In the courfe of the fummcr we recommend your leaving fingle pcrfons to re fide with fomc of your friends, the chiefs of the Charlotte Ifles, in order to colled the fursj the natives, in full pcrfuafion of your returning to them, would keep back from our compe- titors] and here at once you will perceive the advantages to be derived from conciliating their confidence and good-will. To fuch people who are prone to ferve their employ- ers, rewards Ihould be given, which ihould be agreeable to their fuccefs. You are fo well acquainted with the American commerce, that it would be needlcfs to dwell on the neccffity of hufbanding your articles of trade, of guarding againft the E impofitions APPENDIX. li^ ' '.'rl impoficions of the native merchants, and of impreflling them with an Idea of the fuperi- ority of your merchandife, &c. &c. The tide of fancy of thofe people may be turned ; the ficklenefs of their difpofition is well known to you, as well as your ingenuity to us in combating thofe difficulties. On the fall of the year we wifli all the fmall craft to be laid up at the faftory, which you will name Fort Pitt. You will invert Mr. R. Duffin with the fuperintendance of this ftation, and ftrenuoufljr recommend him to keep good order and harmony therein ; to build ftorehoufes for the reception of the tackle and furniture of the ftiipping that you may order to be laid up ; and, above all, to recommend to him to ufe every precaution againft the fcurvy, by exer- cife and the unremitting ufe of the dccoftion of pine tops. You will, in the winter feafon, fend what veflels you judge proper to the Sandwich Iflands for provifions, &c. In their return, we ima^ne that fome of the natives of thofe ifles, both men and women, may be embarked and tranfplanted to America, and made ufeful in our employ; this muft be done with their own confents, and with every precau> tion with regard to their health as well as happinefs. We defire the Argonaut may be returned to China the end of this feafon with the furs. You will deliver her to Captain William Douglafs, and receive from him the Iphigenia and America, ftiifting the crews, &c. &c. You will alfo receive his furplus trade, and all otl tr ftores of that nature, and in return fupply him with refreflimcnts to carry him to the iflands, where he ran procure a fupply. The furs you fend to China, we defire may be well cleaned, and otherwife dreffed, claflTed, and put into chefts; famples of each quality muft be put into a feparate box ; every fkin, piece, and tail, muft be numbered, and a regifter kept of the whole, and tranf- mitted to us, with your other difpatches, by Captain Douglas : in thefe you will be very particular in advifing us of all articles wanted for the year 1790. We recommend to your attention the ftate of the markets in China; the vaft difference between good and bad fltins, as a guidance to your purchafes on the coaft; as 100 prime ikins are moft affuredly worth 500 bad, independent of leflening the value of your articles of commerce. All colleftions of furs, to the lateft period, you will fend home in the Argonaut. Sea-otters tails and feai 'kins now become an objeft, from the price they bear. — It will be entirely needlefs to direft you in the purchafes of furs, where you are fo well ac- quainted; this we leave entirely to yourfelf; but we cannot avoid reminding you, and to defire a ftridt attention is paid, that no illicit commerce is carried on by any perfons in our employ: on any circumftances of this kind, the offenders may depend on our exacting, in the ftrifteft manner, the penalties which a breach of articles may incur. The pay of officers of every defcription is extremely liberal; and we fliallefteem it the duty of every individual to make known fuch circumftances of illicit commerce as may come within their knowledge, as in our eyes it is equally criminal, and Ihews a great negleA ' . ■ ' ■ > of APPEND X. will ell ac- and erfons n our The duty come eglcdt of of their employers' intereft, to either hide or ftifle fuch difcovery ; and you have our moft pofitive orders, on fuch points coming to your knowledge, inflantly to difmifs fuch per- fons, and thofe concerned, from our fervice; nor will we permit any deviation from this point, except your reafons are ftrong and fufficient for purfuing a different line of condudt. We alfo authorife you to difmifs from your fervice all perfons who (hall refufe to obey your orders, when they are for our benefit ; and, in this cafe, we give you to underftand, the Princefs Royal, America, and other fmall craft, are always to continue on the coaft of America; their officers and people, when the time of their fervice is up, muft be em- barked on the returning Ihip to China; and on no account whatever will we fufifer a devi- ation from thofe orders. Should you meet with any of the (hips of MefTrs. Etches and Co. on the coaft, you will of courfe afford them every afliftance in your power ; but as we Ihall have no intereft in thofe ihips, if you ca i induce the commanders to trade on our joint account, it will be moft agreeable to us; but no trading connexions whatever muft be, except on account of the prefent company. To the perfon entrufted with the command of thofe fhips, you will make known the nature of our connexions with Mr. Etches; you will in confequence make a demand of all their furplus ftores, or articles of commerce, &c. they have to difpofe of, in order that they may be left in the fadtory; and a particular account muft be taken of all that are delivered, as they muft be accounted for to Mr. Etches by the Company. We have no doubt but that your requiiicion will be complied with, as ic ultimately tends to the good of their employers. The number of competitors you will meet with on the coaft, will, we fear, fomewhat diminifti your colledtion of furs, as well as enhance their price ; we have no doubt of your activity and perfeverancr, as well as addrefs, in your negotiations. We place the ftrongeft reliance on your vigilance and caution ; and as we have conferred on you the moft ample powers, in return we look for confiderable refponfibility, and a happy completion of our plans. In a full perfuaiion of this, we fhall take our leave, with a ftrong recommenda* tlon of unanimity amongft your officers, and the ftridteft difcipline over your people.— We wifli you health and a profperous voyage. And remain, &c. J. M E A R E S. For Mefrs, Etches, Cox, and Cot E a Noi III. f^^r P E N D I X. Wmk m. 'I M'i.'v I * i 11 >.,^>l i NO III. EXTRACTS of a LETTER from Mr. MEARES to CAPTAIN COLNETT, dated Macao, 25//^ Jpril, 1789. lln ^Ir, MearesWUmoth] »/iht 20ih Aprii, 1790. To accompany Inclofurelio. l.'\ " WE have well-founded information, that Mr. Jaques, Mate of the Princefs Royal, give copies of his own and Captain Hudfon's journals and charts to Captain Met- calf, who commanded an American fhip, when he was in China. This aft of Mr. Jaques we cfteem to militate fo extremely againft himfelf and our fervice, that we defire you to return him to China. " As it is probable, that in autumn, 1790, you may meet with a (lore fliip from England, on the company's account, we have the ftrongeft hopes, that fhould that event happen, that from her you will form the entire eftablifliment of the coaft on fuch reafon> able terms under the prefenr, that will meet our fatisfaftion, and enable the Company, through the medium of oeconomy, to dcftroy all competition. It is probable, however, that all thofe engagements may be fettled in England prior to the departure of the ftore- fliip: in this cafe you will refign the charge of your concerns to thofe who are appointed to manage the fame, and return, with the officers and people who are imprcfl'ed from China, in the ftore-fliip, or the Argonaut, whichever you think mod eligible} but we rather apprehend that, by the above period, you will have fo much tonnage on the coafl, that it will be necdlcfs detaining the Argonaut, more particularly as we (hall want her in 1791, to return her again to the coaft. We have nothing more to repeat in addition to the former orders." « NO IV. OBLIGATION TO RESTORE THE SHIP IPHIGENIA TO HIS CATHOLIC MAJESTY IF DEEMED A LAWFUL PRIZE. [/« Mr. Meares's Memorial of iht ^oth Jpri/, 1790. No II.] ON board His Majcfty's Frigate, called Our Lady of the Rofary, alias the Princefs, 25th May, of faid year; I, D" Francis Jofeph Viana, and Don William Douglas, the firft Captain, and the feconJ Supracargo of the Packet-boat Iphigenia Nubiana, N I X.. Nubiana, at anchor In this Port of St. Lawrence of Nootka, being empowered by D" declare bind John Cawalho, inhabitant of and trader at Macaoj We fay that we oblige ourfelvcs (in name of faid Cawalho, to whom belongs faid Packet-boat) to fatisfy whomfoever Ihall prefent to us the import of valuation by experienced perfons of faid veflel, with lading and other appurtenances on board j and in order the better to certify in the antecedent inventory, in cafe that H. E. the Viceroy of New Spain may judge the faid packet-boat, the Iphigenia, to be a prize, on account of having found us at anchor in faid Port of Nootka, without having a paflport, permiffion, or particular from His Catholic Majefty for fo doing, that is, for navigating or anchoring in feas or ports bind belonging to his dominions. For all which we oblige ourfelves to the faid D" John bind Cawalho, as lawful owner of faid packet, and we oblige ourfelves in his name, in all lawful form, with our perfons and effedts, prefent and future, to the fatisfadtion of the value quantity of contents of faid inventory, marts, (lores, cargo, &c. contained in faid in- ventory j fubjedling ourfelves, as we do fubjedt ourfelvcs, to the laws, pragmatic fane- tions, and ordinances of faid Sovereign} and renouncing, as we do renounce, all laws, liberties, and privileges, which might favour us, without it being neceffary in the exhi- value bition of the faid quantity, in which we may be condemned, to have recourfe to law-fuit ; iinftamped for although this obligation be inade upon fimple paper, we give it as much force and value as if it were a w^riting made before a royal or public notary, and for its force we fign three of one tenor, one being fulfilled, the others to be of no value, which we have figned with our hand and fignature, and authorized by the Commandant D" Stephen Jokph and by the proper Notary, Raphael de Canizares, on faid day, month, and* year, being witnefles thereto D» John Kendrick, Commander of the Bofton frigate, named the Columbia, and D" Jofeph Ingraham, fecond captain and firft pilot of faid frigate; and of this I give faith — Francis Jofeph Viana — William Douglas — John Kendrick — Jofeph Ingraham— Stephen Jofeph Martinez— Raphael de Canizares. This is a literal copy of the Obligation, of which triplicates were figned at the foot of the inventory made of the faid packet-boat of Macao, whereof I certify. On board the Princefs frigate, 26th May, 17S9. RAPHAEL DE CANIZARES. No Y. (\ i •1 APPENDIX. %> NO V. EXTRACT of a LETTER from Mr. MEARES to Capt. WILLIAM DOUGLAS, Commanding the IPHIGENIA; dated at Sea, 2d February, 1788. ,- [/» Mr. Mures 's Memorial «///^ 30/A^n7, 1790. No III.] O N your return to Macao you will feal up your log-book, charts, plans, &c. &c. &c. and forward them to Daniel Beale, Efquire, Canton, who is the ollenfible agent for the concern; and you have the mod particular injundions not to communicate, or give copies of any charts or plans that you may make, as your employers aflert a right to all of them, and as fuch will claim them. Should you, in the courfe of your voyage, meet with the veflels of any other nation, you will have as little communication with them as pofTible ; jhould they be of fuperior force, and defire to fee your p'apers, you will fhcw them. You will be on your guard againfl: furprize. Should they be either Ru(Can, Englifli, Spanifli, or any other civilized nation, and be authorized to examine your papers, you will permit them, and treat them with civility and friendfliip; but at the fame time you mud be on your guard. Should they attempt to feize you, or even carry you out of your way, you will prevent it by every means in your power, and repel force by force; you will on your arrival proteft publickly, before a proper officer, againft fuch illegal procedure, and afcertain, as near as you can, the value of your cargo and veflel, and fend fuch proteft, with a full account of the tranfadion, to us at China. Should you, in fuch confliA, have the fuperiority, you will then take polTeffion of the veflfel that attacked you, as alfo her cargo, and bring both, with the officers and crew, to China, that they may be condemned, and their crews puniihed as pirates. ■ ' NO VI. ^ EXTRACT of a LETTER /row Mr. MEARES to Mr. R. FUNTER, Second Officer of the FELICE, commanding the AMERICA ; dated Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, i oth Sept. 1 7 8 S. [/» Mr. Mearcs's Memorial of the yiih j/prll, 1790. Te accompany Inclofure No III.] YOU are, on no account, to hoift any colours until fuch time as your employers give you orders for this purpofe, except on taking pofTeffion of any new difcovered land j you will then do it, with the ufual formalitv, for the Crown of Great Britain. No VII. APPENDIX. NO VII. THE INFORMATION OF WILLIAM GRAHAM. &c. [In Mr. Mtuts's Mcmotial »/ lie ^oih jfprll, tjqo. No IV.] MiMeffx, 1 The Information of William Graham, of Grub Street, Mariner, taken to wit, J before me Sir Sampfon Wright, Knight, one of His Majefty's Jiiftices of the Peace for the faid County of MiddlefeXj this 5th Day of May, 1790. )loyers land } WHO, being on oath, fays. That on or about the month of September, 1788, he entered himfelf on board the veffel called the North-W^ft America, then lying in King George's Sound, on the North-Weft Coaft of America, belonging to Mr. John Meares, a merchant trading in thofe parts : And further fays. That he faw faid veffel launched in faid harbour under Britifh colours, and navigated under the Britiih flag, and that flie was commanded by Robert Funter, who is a Britifh fubjeft. And this Informant further fays. That faid fhip was trading on account of faid John Meares on the North-Weft Coaft of America, between the latitudes of 60° and 45" North, for furs, a large number of which they had purchafed and got on board ; and that being in want of provifions, they failed from the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, where they had been fo trading as aforefaid, and returned to King George's Sound for a frefli fupply of provifions, at which time the natives were bringing great quantities of furs for fale. And this Informant further fays. That when the faid veffel arrived in theOfEngof faid King George's Sound, a number of boats came out of faid Sound, and feized faid veffel, and condud:ed her into faid Sound ; that one of faid boats had a gun in her bow, and all the people on board the boats were Spaniards, and were armed with cutlaffes, piftols, and mufquets ; that they took poffeffion of faid veffel in the name of the King of Spain, and made this Informant and the reft of the crew prifoners. That on entering faid Sound in manner aforefaid, he, this Informant, faw two Spanifti men of war lying there, one carrying twenty-fix guns, called the Princeffa, and the other twenty-four guns, called the St. Carlos, with fcveral hundred men on board, and carry* ing the Spanifti flag. That the Spaniards who had boarded faid veffel as aforefaid, brought her to an anchor clofe to faid frigates, and put the captain and crew of faid veffel on board faid frigates ; that they then took out of faid veifel all the furs and other merchandize, and put the fame »'(' /*• APPENDIX. 1^ - fame alfo on board faid frigates, and then hoined the Spanifli flag on board the veHel they had fo captured. That the Spaniards entreated this Informant, and the reft of the crew of faid veflel, to enter thcnifelves as fcamen on board faid frigates, which they all rcfiifed to doj that Hiid Spaniards then put the crew of faid vcflcl in irons, and fed them with horfe-beans and water for the fpace of about three weeks, and beat and otherwife ill treated fcvcr.il of them. And this Informant further fays, That he was informed that the name of the officer who commanded laid frigates is Stephen Jofcph Martinez ; and he alfo further fays, that if faid Vi.flel could have continued longer in the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, from whence flie was obliged to return to King George's Sound through want of provifion, or if fhe had got a fupply of prcvifions at Hiid Sound, and gone back to the Archipelago (from which (lie was prevented by being captured as aforefaid) he is well afllired that they lliould have collefted a large quantity of furs and other merchandize, and that the voy- age would have been very advantageous to the parties interefted therein. That foon after the capture of faid veffel as aforefaid, flie was fitted out, and fent on a trading voyage, by Aiid Stephen Jofcph Martinez, manned with Spaniards, bearing the Spanilh flag, and having alio on board one David Coolidge, mate of the floop Wafliing- ton, belonging to the Ui-.ifcd States of America, which was then lying in faid Sound j and in the month of July following, faid velTel returned to faid Sound, having on board a conddeiablc (juantity of otter-fliins, which he, this Informant, faw taken out of faid velR'l, and put on board faid frigates. That on the 14th day of the month of June, 1789, the Princefs Royal merchant fliip of London, belonging to faid Mr. Meares and others, and commanded by Mr. William Hudfon, came into faid Sound with Britifh colours flying, and anchored near the faid frigates ; that faid veflel, I'rinccfs Royal, lay in faid Sound a few days, and then failed" (having firft obtained thi.- permiflion of faid Martinez fo to do) without any other inter- ruption or moleftation whatever. That on or about the 3d of July, the Argonaut, a merchant fhip appeared in the Offing of faid King George's Sound, commanded by James Colnett; that faid Martinez equipped a launch with twenty men and upwards, and went wi:h the fame himfelf, accompanied by Richard Howe, an American, and fiipracargo of the Ihips Columbia and Wafliington, be- longing to the United States of America, and then lying in faid found) on board faid Argonaut ; that faid Argonaut failed into, and anchored in, faid Sound with Br'tifti co- lours flying i that the next morning the Argonaut wanting to put to fea, was prevented by faid Martinez, who feized faid veflTel with an armed force, took the captain and crew on board faid frigates, and put them in irons ; that faid Martinez ordered the Britifli colours on board the Argonaut to be hauled down, and the, Spanifli colours to be hoifted, and fired a gun on board the Argonaut, and took poflcflTion of the veflel in the name of His 5 Catholic A P N D X. Catholic Majeftvj that faid Martinez then ordered all the property on board faid Argo* naut to be removed on board faid frigates; that on the 13th day of July, the before- mentioned vcfl'cl the Princefs Royal appeared in the Offing of faid King George's Sound, and that Robert Hudfon, Mafter of faid vcllel, came into faid Sound in his boat ; that faid Martinez immediately feizcd faid boar, together with faid Hudfon and the boat's crew, on whom fevcral Spanifh foldiers, who were on board the Argonaut and the Prin- ceflk (one of faid frigates) fired with ballj that when faid Hudfon came alongfide faid frigate in his boat, the crew belonging to faid frigate beat faid Hudfon and his men, and threw faid Hudfon down the after hatchway of faid frigate, faying, " Get down, you Englifh dog," and afterwards put him in the cabin under a guard of foldiers; that the Spaniards then launched two boats, armed with cutlaflcs, &c. which went on board the Princefs Royal, and brought her into the Sound ; that they then fired a gun on board her, hauled down the Engliih and hoiftcd Spanilh colours on board her, and put the crew, all the merchandize, and other property that was in her, on board one of faid frigates, and took poUeffion of faid Princefs Royal in the name of HisCatholic Majcfty j that at this time he, this Informant, faw twoSpanifli batteries which were credcd on fliore in fliid Sound, the one mounted fixteen guns, and the other fevcn guns, with the Spanilh flag flying thereon. And this Informant further fays, that he remained in confinement on board one of faid Spanifli frigates for the fpacc of three weeks, and was then put on board the aforefaid American veffe\ the Columbia, in order to return to China ; that before faid veflel failed, he, this Informant, was fevcral times on board the Argonaut, where he faw Captaia Colnett and his officers confined in the cabin, and the crew in the fore-hatchway in irons. And this Informant further fays, that he failed from China on board the Felice, and arrived in fiiid King George's Sound in the month of May, 1788; that in about a fort- night or three weeks after their arrival he faw Mr. Meares deliver fome articles of mer* chandize to Mnquilla, the fovereign prince of the faid Sound, which he then undcrflood and believed were given as a confidcration for lands which the faid Mr. Meares had re- quired for an eftabliffiment on ftiorc ; that faid Mr. Meares did ereft a building and other conveniencics on faid land, and that the fame were taken pofl'cffion of by faid Martinez, who railed a battery of two guns, and hoifted the Spanifli flag thereon. And this Informant fays, that there were a number of men, natives of China, at faid Sound, who had been taken thither by faid Mr. Meares ; and that faid Martinez refufed to let them return to China, and employed them in eredting batteries and other works, and, as he hath becii informed, in digging in the mines. That while he was on his paflage in the Columbia to China, he faw a quantity of furs put on board faid veflel from fiiid Princcfla, and that the name Martinez was ftamped or marked thereon; that in Port CoCc, in their way to China, (and where the Wafliington and Columbia met) he alfo fuv a number of furs put on board the CcUimbia from the VVafliington. F And W V ' Sfc,"?^ -.^.^..-.. APPENDIX. And this Informant hereby acknowledges, That he has received froiQ faid Mr. Mcarcs all the wages due to htm from the time of his embarking on board the Felice as afore- feid, to the time of his arrival in China on board the Columbia} and fays, that the prin- cipal reafon of his coming to Europe was to give information of the before-mcntioncd tranfadions. That when he was at Port Cofe, in the Columbia as aforcfaid, Captain Kendrick, who commanded faid vefTel, told this Informant that if he would not fign articles to afTid in navigating her to China, he would turn him afliore among the Indians; and in confe- quence of faid threats, he figned faid articles; and he, this Informant, is of opinion, that if he and others under the like circumllances had not given fuch aiTillance, they could not have carried faid veflel to China : but he did not receive any recompcncc for fuch fervice. WILLIAM GRAHAM. Sworn before me the day and year above written, SAMPSON WRIGHT. NO VIII. T.HUDSON'S RECEIPT FOR TWO HUNDRED AND THREE SEA-OTTER SKINS. If) ' S P' i [In Mr. Mearcs's Memorial of 30/A Jpril, 1790. No. V ] yuly 2d, 1789, in Fritttdly Cove, Nootka Sound. RECEIVED from Robert Funter, two hundred and three fcaotter Ikins, num- bered I to 815, in good order and well conditio;ie I, of which numbers, twelve are wanting, viz. No. 96, 17c, 179, 180, 163, 197, 199, 202, ao'j, 204, 105, and 208, which I promife to deliver in the like good order and condition at Macao, Canton, or any other port where they may be ordered by the eftabliflied Company of Merchants trading from the above ports to this coaft. Witnefs my hand this 2d day of July, 1789, T, HUDSON. 203 fkins. No. IX. APPENDIX. ' • '■•"V- NO IX. ., CERTIFICATE «/ NINETY. SIX SKINS beks pppeH on board the QOUJMSiA. [In Mr. Mearcs's Memorial of 2pth Jpril, 1790. No. VI.] OF the ninety-fix /kins, wliich I have permitted to be embarked on board the Co- lumbia, to Captain Robert Fiinter, and Pilot Thomas Barnet, on their account, they (hall pay to the Captain of faid frigate, John Kendrick, the c, being returned to King George's Sound from a trac- ing expedition amongft the Charlotte's Illes, unfufpeding enemies or other hoftile at- tacks, there did come from thence boats manned and equipped for war, commanded by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, commander of two fhips of war of His Catholic Majefty then in King George's Sound, and did tow or convey the faid North-Weft America, her crew, tackle, cargo, and furniture, into the faid Sound, and did anchor her clofe to the Spanifli (hips of war, and then did take polllflion of the fchooner, her tackle, cargo, furniture, goods and chatties of the affociated merchants, in the name of His Catholic Majefty, and as a good and lawful prize. That the faid fchooner North-Weft America did barter and trade with the natives of the North-Weft coaft of America, for two hundred and fifteen fea-otter (kins of good and prime quality j that the faid number of two hundred and fifteen fea-otter (kins were put on board of the floop Princefs Royal, of London, belonging to the affociated merchants, for their ufe and advantages. That Hi m ■Ki^iK 1 M^n' H^ HI& I N 1 X. That That the fait! Robert Funter and his c v were re oved prifonprs on board the fatd Spanith fhips of war, to their vexation, dci ncnt, auJ loft; and ihat the f.iid fchoun er North-Weft America was taken out of his care, and given up to the plunder of the Tub- jcdls of His Catholic Majcfty ; that the colours of Spain were hoifted on board the faid North-Weft America} that every formality was ufed by the Spaniards, by fprinklirg. holy-water, &c. on the above vcircl» in order to cover their unjuft and cruel pro- ceedings. That the quantity of trade and commerce on board the North-Weft America, when taken by the Spmiards, was great and confiderable ; and that being in want of provifions*- Ihe returned to King George's Sound, in the folc hopes of meeting with fomc of the ihips of the aflbciated merchants, to receive from them the fupplies wanted ; that num- bers of (kins were left behind amongft the Charlotte's Ides ; and vvc do aver, to the btft- of our belief, that had there been fuflicient provifions on board the fchooner, fo as to have permitted her further flay, that one thoufand fea-otter Ikins would have been col- ■ Ictftcd, in addition to the two hundred and fifteen above-mentioned: and we further make oath. That the detention in King George's Sound, by Don Jofcph Stephen Mar' tinez, was to the ruin of the voyage, and the irreparable lofs of the aflbciated mcr* chants. Thac the faid North Weft America was immediately equipped and manned by Don. Jofeph Stephen Martinez, with Spanifli officers and fcamen, with Mr. David Coolidge, firft mate of the floop Wafliingron, of the United States of AHicrica, a pilot ; that lh&. failed from King George's Sound under the Spanifti flag on a trading voyage j that in the month ot July ftie returned to the faid Sound with a cargo of fevcnty-five fea-otter fkins^- or upwards, to the heavy lofs of the aflTociated merchants. That we do further make oath, That Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did offer to Mr. Robert Funtcr to go as pilot to the fchooner, to fliew the different harbours where fkins- wcrc robe collcdcd, and to trade along the coaft; and as an inducement to accept of this ftation, the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did offer unto the faid Mr. Robert punter the half of all furs or valuables coUetfled during the voyage; and the faid Mr. Robert Funtcr having acquired a confiderable knowledge of the trade of the Noith-Weft coaft of America, was prcH'cd by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez to difcover the nature of the commerce, and to enter into their fervice. And we do further make oath, That thofe offers of Don Jol'ciih Stephen Martinez were rejcfted with indignation, as incom- patible with our being in the fervice of the affociated merchants. That the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did make ule of all manner of threats - and other unlawful endeavours of puniihments and imprifonments, &c. &c. &c. to in-^ duce the faid Robert Funter to make fomc inftrument of writing, whereby the li^^ht and trtle of faid fchooner North-Weft America, fhould be conveyed to the above Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez; that all thole cHbrts and threats were fuftained without giving luch \'-\ ..,^,jg™..^ -«>,; N I X. h n ; an inftrunient in writing : And do furtlier make oath, That of the two huinlrcd and fit'tcon fca-otter Ikini collcdcd on board the North-VVcft Americn, twelve were eltht-r lod or flolen on board the Spanilh fliip PrincefTa, which reduced the above number of two hundred and fifteen to two hundred and three (kins, which were put on board the Princcfs Royal. That on or about the 14th of July, the Princefs Royal of I-ondon, being in want of wood and wafer, and o(herwife much diftrefTcd, did f:iil into King Giorgc's Sound, and did anchor near to the Ships commanded by the faid Dun Jol'cph Stephen Martinez; and that Mr. William Hudfoo, raafler of the above vcfl'cl, finding the fchooncr North Weft America, belonging to thfe airociated merchants, uiih cargo and tackle, ^c. fei/.cd by the Spaniards, did receive on bo^ird the faid (loop Princcfs Rnyal, with the leave rnd licence of Don Jofej)h Stephen Murtincz, the number of two hundred and three prime fca-otter (kins, on account of the aflbcinted merchants; the f.id Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez having determined to capture the hull and tjckle of the North Wi ft America, but liberate the cargo of the above number of two hundred and three fea-otter (kins. That the above (loop Princefs Royal, William Hudfon, ma(^er, did put to fea out of Nootka Sound, having on board the above cargo of the affociated merchants, and after having (igned a receipt for the above ikins, which receipt is attached to this affidavit. And we do further make oath, that the receipt attached to this affidavit, is the true •and juft receipt received from William Fjudfon, mafter of the Princefs Royal. And we do make oath, that the (hip Argonaut, commanded by Lieutenant James Colnett, of his Majcfty's navy, and belonging to the a(rociated merchants, did arrive off King George's Sound, on or about the 3d of July 1789; and that Don Jofeph Stephen Afartinez perceiving the faid veiTel in the offing, did man and equip a launch with feventy men and upwards, and went himfeif, accompanied by Mr. Richard Howe, an American, and fupercargo of the (hips Coluniba and Wafliington, belonging to the United States of America, and then in King George's Sound, and went on board the faid fhlp Argonaut, where he was received with every friend(hip and civility; that the Argonaut being come ofTalong voyage, and otherwife much dif^rcflfed, was enticed and d«coyed into the faid Sound by the a(rurance!j and refting on the faith of Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, who promifed him every adiflance and friendfhip; and that the ihip Argonaut having in confcquence of this, entered King George's Sound, was boarded by armed boats equipped ■from the Spanifh (hips, and feized and made a prize of, her officers, crew, and cargo, in the name of his Catholic Majefty, by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinezj and that the officers and crew were immediately removed on boatd the Spanifh (hips, and the Britifh ihip Argonaut was given up by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez to plunder, not only the goods, &c. of the aflbciated tnetC'haats, .bcut the private moveables aiid valuables of the officer! and crew. • That V s*»- — . APPENDIX. That Don Jufcph Sicplu-n Martinez, with |)ricrt» an T > Seamen. Thomas Littlewood, J Sworn before me, at Canton in China, this fifth day of December, one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine. (Signed) ' JOHN HARRISON jun. ClucfSupra-cargo. NO XI. JOHN KENDRICK's Recbipt for Provifions, &c, on board the Ship COLUMBIA. [In Mr. Meare's Mtmtrialofthe 20th jlpr'tl, 1790. To accompany Inchfurt, AT*. 7.] 13th JwLV, 1789. TJ ECEIV'ED from on boird the Snow Argonaut, on board the fhip Columbia, the ua 12 Squares of flioe leather. 2 Small cafks of vinegar. der-mcntioned nrticles 5 viz. 5 Cafks of fait provifions. 20 Pickles of rice. 2 Small calks of vinegar. Per JOHN KENDRICK. The above is a true copy ol the original, figned as above, &c. Per ROBERT DUFFIN. Q £xi RAcr /I 4 n I N "a 1\*i j J- 1, \ APPENDIX. ■••' ■ NO. XII. " ' . ." •; •■■ :;•--!- EXTRACT 0/ tie JOURNAL of the IPHIGENIA. •./ '■ \_ltt Afr. Meare'i Memorial of 2pth Jpiil, i-jfp. No. 8.] ; REMARKS, mc. en Board the IPHIGENIA N U B I A N A. Jpril 2oth, 1789. AT one P. M. a breeze fprung up from the N. W; flood in for the Sound. At feven P. M. the tide and wind failing, dropped the (Ifcam anchor in fifty fathoms water, one mile from the fhore, and two miles from Friendly Cove, At 10 A.M. weighed with a Southerly wind : fhortly afterwards camealong-fide Ca|)tain Kcndrickand officers; they had wintered in Friendly Cove, and had only removed a few days with their Ihip up to Mowcena, about eight miles higher up the Sound. At eleven A. M. dropped anchor in the Cove, and moored with the pieces of junk.; employed unbending fails and getting the top-gallant mafts and yards down on deck : — This log at midnight. 21/1. — Light winds and variable: the limbers being all choaked with the fand- ballafl, fo that the water could not find its way into the pump well, fct all hands to wotiv in the morning to clear the hold : departed this life Acchon Aching, a feaman ; he was delirious from the time of his fall from the crofs trees till he died: interred the corpfs on ihoie. 2id. — The wind from the N. \V. and S. W. with fair weather; fent fome fails on Ihore, and erefted a tent to put our empty c;ihl mc, that was the King of Spain's orders to take all the vefTcls he met with on the coafl of America ; that I was now his prifoner. I urged the diflrefs we were in before we reached the har- bour; the veflcl without cables; no pitch nor tar on board to flop her leaks; no bread on board, nor any thing to live on but fait pork ; that if I had fleered for any port in South America, the Spaniards would not have Icized my veflel, but fupplicd me with the neceflfaries I was in want of, agreeable to the laws of nations ; to take me a prifoner in a fore'gn port that the King of Spain had never hid claim to, was a jilcce of injuflice that no nation had ever attempted before : but that, fooner than be detained as a prifoner, (al- though the vefTcl had like to have foundered before we got into the harbour,) if he woufd give me permifTion, I would inflantly leave the port This was denied. Forty or fifty men, with fome officers, went on board, hoifled the Spanifh colours, and took pofTefllon of the Iphigenia. The keys of my chefl were demanded ; my charts, journals, papers, and in (horr, every thing that was in the vcfTel, they took poflefllion of. I was not fo tnuch as allowed to go on board. I enquired the caufe of his not taking the Wafhing- ton Hoop, as he had orders from the King of Spain to take every vefTcl he met with or this ■■ «*ir-r.-r -; -.irsiS'r^t-j APPENDIX. this coaft. He gave me no fatisfaftory anfwer j but told me my pipers were bad ; that thiy mentioned 1 was to take all Engliih, Ruilian and Spanifli vcflels that w( re of inferior force to the Ii)hit;enia, and fend or carry their crews to Macao, there to be tried for their lives as pirates. I told hi(n they had not interpreted the papers right; that though I did not underftand Portuguefe, I had feen a copy of them in Englifli at Macao, which men- tioned, if I was attacked by any of thofe three nations, to defend mylclf, and if I had the fupcriority, to fend the captain and crew to Macao to anfwer for the infult they offered. The padries and the clerk read the papers over, and faid they had interpreted, the papers right. In the evening of the 15th, Captain Kendrick came down from Moweena; having been informed Captain Kendrick was privy to my being taken prifoner, and that it was Icttled when the Spanifh Commodore was laft at Moweena, when he came on board the Iphige- nia I refufed to fee him. This being reported to the Spanilh Commodore, I was ordered, at ten o'clock at night (although I was very unwell) to turn out, and carry my bed oa board the Sp inifh fnow, it both raining and blowing at the time. Here I remained for fome time without a foul to fpeak to. My fervant, who was a M nilla man, and (poke the language very well, was not permitted to come near me, for fear of his difcovering fome of their proceedings that was carrying on. In Ihort, they dole a number of things, and afterwards laid the blame on my fervant. My peo; le were divided between the two veffels, and every method made ufe of to entice them to enter. The fails were bent,, and fome new running rigging wove. A captain was appointed,, and officers,, to carry me to Si. Bias. My officers were to be detained, and one half of my people on board the two Spanifli fliips, and I was requeued to choofe the quictcft of my men to go along with me. A lirt of them I was defired to give to the commodore, as we were 10 fail in a few days. This I would not comply with, but told him, he might fend home if he thought proper; that the Iphigenia was not fit togo to fea till flie was caulked, and her kaks f.opped. This tley imn.ediatcly fet about. After taking every thing out of her, cop- per, iron, trade "f every kind, and all my Sandwich Ifland pork, they fill d the after- hold with fand ballad, that we had been at fo- much pains to get out. The f>,hooner North-Weft America, and the Felice, being daily expefted in, none of us were permit- ted to fpeak to the natives, although I found an opportunity to acquaint Maquilla, and the other chiefs, as did Mr, Ingraham, chief officer of the Columbia. Wc requ' fled 'them to have boats ready to go off to Captain Meares and Captain Funter, and acquaint them not to come ii> to Nootka: that I was cap chelled, that is, taken; they told us they underftood. They wanted to know if I was now a colt, that is, a flave, — that if I would go with them, they would fend boats to watch tor an opportiinitv to car- ry me off". They inftantly fliifted their village about four miles to the Northward, fo- that I am in great hopes both Captains Meares and Funter will have intelligence of my being captured. One of my people on board the Iphigenia, the fervant, was bargaining z witlv 1 J 'it I M ¥ il iif'-l 11 I\ ( 'J APPENDIX. ■with the natives for fomc fifli they had in their bojt; the Spaniards, not underftanding what was faid, ordered him on board the Conimodoic's Ihip, and put him into th? itocks, where he was ftridtly examined, and threatened feverely, if he did not tell wh&- ther he had mentioned to the natives for them to go and tell Captains Mearcs and Funter not to come into Nootka. When they found he had not mentioned any thing about the other veffels, iliey wanted to know if the natives had not fold hir.i they had feen a vcffel in the offing: he told them they had not. He was after :hls let at liberty, but ordered never to converfe with the Indians, nor fpeak to them in future. I afterwards had a conference with Captain Kendrick, he denied being acccflary to my being taken; that the SpaniHi Commodore had mentioned to him he would take Captain Meares prifoner as foon as he arrived in the harbour; that he had faid every thing, and had made ufe of all his intereft to prevent my being taken prifoner : how far this is true, 1 Ihall leave it for him todifcovcr. On the 22d the irons arrived from Moweena, which were made by Captain Kendrick's armourer. We were now to proceed inftantly to St. Bias, and I was once more requeued to choofe one half of my men, as the other half was to remain with my officers. Finding not one of them would enter, or defert me, I declined giving the preference to any. Be- fore we failed, I requefted my own private papers might be delivered up, likewifc a copy of my Ihip papers, which was promifed me. The interpreter, when he came to that part which mentions my defending niyfelf in cafe I was attacked, and, if I had the fupe- riority, to carry the aggreffors to Macoa to be tried for the infult, mentioned to the Com niodore, in my prefence, that he thought the papers very good. I told him if that was the only caufe he had to alledge againrt me, it would not be difficult for me to caft him in any court of juftice in Europe. He had now got every thing out of her that he took a liking to; and what things I had belonging to myfclf, he robbed me of in as gentle a manner as he poffibly could, by letting me know he muft have my gold watch, my fec« tant, my (love, and all my cjiarts; likewife all my long feathers, cloaks and c.ps, that Tianna and his relations prefented me with ; even my ihoes and boots, and very bed cloaths went; as a reafon for fo doing, he told me fome of thofe things pould be got at Mexico. He now propofed to return the vefTel, and fupply me with provifions to carry me to the Sandwich Iflands, if I would fign a paper that was already prepared and pre- fented me. This I refufed to comply with till I had witneflcs, and knew the contents of the paper : Mr. How, fupcrcargo of the Columbia, was requefted to write a letter to Captain Kendrick and Mr. Ingraham, to come down from Moweena, to be witneflcs to the papers I was to fign. On the 24th they arrived; the papers were interpreted to me, which mentioned he ar- rived on fuch a day, and found me in the Bay of St. Lawrence, Nootka t that I was in diftrefs, and in want of every thing; that he had not flopped my navigation but fup- plied me with every neceflary I was in want jof to carry me to the Sandwich Iflands. This m ;V^ L<. IS that APPENDIX. ■T'lis paper! refufed figning, for two reafons; one was, lie had not only flopped me iir my navigation, but had taiien podeflion of the fliip, and every thing that belonged to herj another was, the Spaniards could lay no claim to a port they had never before feen, nor had any of the K'ng of Spain's veff.ls ever entered. The Commodore laid, in the year 1775 he was fecond officer* on board a king's frigate that w.is on difcovcry, that faw the port, and named it the Bay of St. Lawrence. I told him, having the chnrt of that voy- age by me, I begged leave to differ in opinion from him. If I i.id noc chufe to fign the papers, he told me he would keep the veffel and fend her along the coaft as a privateer to tr'de -iih the natives. The papers were inrtantly laid, afidc, and Captain Kendrick went up to Moweena. The fame evening he told me his orders were to take Captain Kendrick if he (hould fall in with him any where in thofe feas; and mentioned it as a great fccret that he would take both him and the floop Wafhington as (bon as fhe arrived in port. The 24th and 25th, a heavy gale blew from the South Weft, the Spanirti vcflels had each four anchors a-head ; the Commodore requeilcd I would go on board the Iphigenia with mv officers and people, and lecuie her ; having nothing on board to fecure her with, I declined having anv thing to do with her;, he was therefore under the neceffity offend- ing two eight-inch hawfers, and making her faft to Hog Illand. As Iwas not permitted to go on Ihore, I did not know much of what was carrying forward therej they were bufy in erefting forts on Hog Ifland, and, by what I learned,, they were cutting dowa large trees to build houfes. The Commodore acquainted me, that laft year, when he was at Oonalalhka, Mr, Ifmyloff told him he expetted three veflels from Kamtfchatka with a number of men; that on their arrival at Oonalaflika, he was to take the command,, and condud them to Nootka Sound, where they were to forn a fettlement ; that he ex- pedlcd to arrive at Nootka by the middle of July, or ill of Auguft, 1789; that two Ruffian frigates were to fail from Peterfljurgh by the way of Cape Horn, and join them in Nootka Sound with ftores and other neceflaries that they might want. On his arrival, at St. Bias laft year he fent an exprefs to the Viceroy, who ordered him to fail imme- diatelv for Nootka, and credt forts to keep the Ruffians out. He likewife acquaintt?d me, that in the year 1786, two Englifli veffels were caft away, one was drove aihore at her anchors on the ifland Maidenoi Oftroff; that alltlic hands pcrilhed cxctpr three men that happened to be on fhore; they were fent over land to Peterfburgh. The officers of the other veffel being on fliorc, they put to lea, and as there was noperfon on board that could niV'gatc the yeffel, Ihe was never afterwards fucn or heard of. As- 'hey now had- got poffeffion of my charts and journals, the Spanilh Commodore intended to lend the St. Carlos, Captain Arrow, to the Northward as foon as they could get her bottom cleaa- ed and her fides caulked. Captain Kendrick was likewife ready for lea, and he was ga- ine I J * Tlus was Maurelle's fliip tlic Commodore was in. # , ! if i '\\ I'. <' It v APPENDIX. "ing to pu(h to the Northward. My people were after me every hour of the day, re- queding that I would fign the papers, that they might get on board their own veflci. Although the Commodore had promifed to fupply me with what he thought would be neceflary to carry me to the Sandwich Idandi, and made this promife before Mr. How and Mr. Ingraham, ftill there was no dependance to be put on his word ; however, on the 36th this paper was once more produced, and I was under the nece/Tity of figning it. At eleven o'clock on the 26th, I carried my people on board, and took poflTeflion of the Iphigcnia ; I was not above half an hour on boird when a meflTage came that I was wanted on board the Princefla. When I vvcnt on board, I was told by Don Jofeph Ste- phen Martinez (in the prcfence of Mr. Ingraham) that, although he bad given me back the Iphigenia, he would not permit me to fail till the arrival of the fchooner North-Weft America, and that I mud fill her to him for the price that Captain Kendrick and his officers fhould let on her. I told him the fchooner did not belong to me ; that I had no power to fell her^ and that he might aft as he thought proj>er on the occafion. In the afternoon the Spaniards left the fliip, eaeh carrying off what he could lay his hands on. May 27/^— Cloudy weather, with the wind from the Weft; loofed the fails to dryt -employed heaving out the fand ballaft. In the evening the Commodore acquainted me he had intelligence from the natives that the fchooner was in a port a little way to the .Northward- He got out fomc ink and paper, and requefted I would write a letter to Captain Funter to come into Nootka Sound. This I would ndt comply with, fo that he refufed to fend my ftores, or any of his own on board me. 28/;?'. — Frefli breezes and fair weather; employed fitting the rigging in its old places. 2grh. — I made out a lift of what articles I was in want of; my chief demand'was a ca- tle of eleven inch, bread, fome pitch and tar, together with forty fathoms of four«inch Tope for top-fail (hcets, and the rope that was woven when the vcffel was in their pof- feflion. The Commodore fent me word he would let me have what things he thought neceffary, and what he could bcft fpare, fo that I received on board the following articles, 'viz. one calk of beef for three cafks of Sandwich Ifland pork that was kept; four bags, weighing each aclb. one box of bread, weighing about ijolb. two bags of rice, four of beans ; eight bags of flour ; one cheft of pitch ; one bladder of tar ; and one eighteen- gallon keg of Spanilh Brandy j roj)e of three inch, eighteen fathoms; one coil of one and an half inch, containing fifty fathoms ; and thirty fathoms of two inch. The reft ■of the cotdage and other things were wove and fent on board when I was a prifoncr. ootb. Employed rigging the top gallant mafts. In the afternoon an account of the articles we had received was brought on board, charging five times the quantity, and .five times the fum they coft; in fliort, I was going to return moftof them, but I fo nd if I returned any I muft return the whole. As I had made no charge againft him of my pork, iron, copper, watch, ftove, fedtant, cloaks, caps, and charts which he had de- prived me ofi on this account I granted him the bills he requefted. There was another • thing he day, re- own veiTcl. ht would be e Mr. How vever, on the , rning it. poflfeflion of ie chat I wa* 1 Jofeph Ste- ♦ ven me back North-Weft rick and his : that I had i(ion. In the hands on. fails to dry; iquainted me ; way to the ite a letter to h, To that he s old places. and'was a ca- of fouT'inch in their pof- ;$ he thought wing articles, j four bags, rice, four of )ne eightecn- ; coil of one ih. The reft foncr. ;count of the jUiintity, and , but Ifo nd ft him of my he had de- e was another thing . APPENDIX. thing I was obliged to comply with ; viz. by great promifes he got my fervant, who wai a Manilla man, to enter on board the Princcffa; — I was therefore under the necclTity of difcharging him, and paying his wages up to the day he was difmiiTed. 31^?. — As I was determined to be detained no longer, I went on board in the morning of the 31ft, and acquainted Don Stephen Jofeph Martinez that the moment the wind fa- voured me, I would fail for the Sandwich Iflands. I found there were objeflions made : the Commodore acquainted me he had information that I intended to go to the North- ward. As I had taken great care not to give the leaft hint to any perfon of my future intentions, I mentioned, that whoever he was that told him fo, could not be fo well ac- quainted with the ftate of my veflel as he was himfclf ; that by his own calculation I had not above fix weeks provifions ; that he had only left me ten or twelve bars of iron» which would only purchafe me as many fca otter (kins, and if I was even to difpofe of them, the confcquence would be but fmall; we (hould only be ftarved before we got to Macao, as he had left us nothing elfe to purchafe our hogs with at the Sandwich Iflands ; bcfidcs he had not left a chart to carry me to China, let alone along the coafts of Ame- rica. My people, I told him, were on high wages, and that it was necelTary for me to make the beft of my way to Macao, having no other profpefl but to lelTen the expencet of the voyage as much as lay in my power. ytinc \f.. — I gave orders to unmoor, and requefled he would let me have my great guns, fmall arms, and an)munition ; which he complied with. Captain Kendrick and officers having come down from Moweena, they acquainted me the Columbia would fail the day following to the Northward. Another paper was produced, which the Commo- dore requeftcd I would fign, and be witneflcd by Captain Kendrick and Mr. Ingraham ; the contents of this paper, they told me, was, if my papers were bad, the velTel was to be delivered up at Macao. It was eafy to fee through thofe artifices. I figned the paper, and requefled a copy, but this was not complied with. A dinner being provided on board the Princeira, every method was made ufe of by Captain Kendrick and others to find out if I intended to touch to the Northward. I gave them the fame anfwers as be- fore, telling them I had no intention to throw away the lives of my people. On this day they dr.mk my health, wilhing me a good voyage to Macao, and accompanied it with thirteen guns. As foon as dinner was over I went on board, accompanied by Captain Kendrick and officers, and the Spanifli Commodore. A light breeze Springing up from the Noithord, I i.!;:ivc orders to get under way. The Commodore told me I muft leave a letter for Captain Funter, if he fhould arrive in Nootka Sound, to fell the fchooner. I acquainted him, neither Captain Funter nor myfelf had power or authority to fell the fchooner; that I would write a letter, and leave it with him, to be delivered in cafe of his returning to Nooika Sound. I Ihall here infcrt a copy of the letter I left. % H n ■ I 1 f APPENDIX. To Capt. Robert Funtsri Commander of the Schooner North- West America* «« s I R, ' . ' «' ON the 6th of May, a Spanilh (hip of war arrived in Friendly *' Cove, Nootka Sound, commanded by Commodore Don Stephen Jofcph Martinez , *' on the 13th the fnow St. Carlos arrived; on the morning of the 14th the Iphigcnia " was feized, and we were made prifoners, it being alleged our papers were not good. «« This being cleared up, I am now permitted to fail to Macao, being fupplied with «* ftores and provifions to carry rne to the Sandwich Iflands. As there is no account of ** Captain Mearcs, I am afraid fome accident has happened to him between the Sandwich «« Iflands and China j if that is the cafe, you will be but poorly off for provifions. My ** own fituation prevents me from giving you any affiftance ; I muft therefore leave you «« to your own good condud, being as much at a lofs how to adt as you can be. All that " I have to fay is, you will aft to the Left of your judgment for the benefit of your ** employers. *• I am, &c. *« Iphioenia, Friendly Cove, Nootka. « Sound, ijljuae, 1789. ' ' «' Wm. DOUGLAS." The moment I had finilhcd my letter I gave orders to flip the hawfer, and made fail out of the Covei the fort on Little Hog Ifland falucing me with five guns, which I begged to be excufed returning. At three P. M. the Spanifli Commodore and Captain Kendrick left me and went on fhore. As the wind was from the Northward, I ftood to the South* ward under all fail ; at fun-fct Nootka Sound bore North half WeA, didance fcven or eight leagues. yuHe 2^.— Having got out of the hands of my enemies, I was now at liberty to judge for myfelf, knowing it would be a length of time before the Spaniards could have their Ihow ready which they intended to fend to the Northward, and being of opinion they would not permit Captain Kendrick to fail before flie was ready, the interval was there- fore mine. I had no idea of running for Macao with only between fixty and feventy fea- otter fltins which I had on board. My people had been accuftomed to fliort allowance ; I therefore gave orders, at midnight to put the fliip on the other tack, and ftand away to the Northward. I was in great hopes I (hould fall in with Captain Funter ; and I was fully refolved, if I did, to take the people and cargo out of her, and fet her on fire, if I found I could not carry her along with me. At noon we had hazy weather ; Nootka Sound bore North Eaft half Eaft, diftance fourteen leagues. % No. xin. IBRICA. Friendly lartinrz | phigcnia lot good, lied with count of sandwich ins. My jave you All that of your GLAS."' made fail I begged IKcndrick e South- fcvcn or to judge jave their lion they as thcre- irenty fea- )wance ; I away to and I was fire, if I Nootka No. XIII. APPENDIX, NO XIII. COPIES of LETTERS from Mr. DUFFIN to Mr. MEARES. \In Mr. Mcarcs's Memorial of 2pth Ji»U, 1790. No. IX.] Noolka Sound, July nth, 1789. DEAR S I K, I BEG to inform you, per favour of Mr. Barnett, with our fafe arrival in Nootka Sound, after a plcafant paflage of nine weeks and four days, dur- ing which time nothing material happened. \Vc lived in the greateft harmony and good friendfliip during the time we have been together, and every thing promifed fair for a continuation of the fame; every officer on board feeming ftrenuous for their employers' intcreft. VVc made the coaft of America July 3d, at Woody Point, and flood along Hiore under an eafy fail during the night. In the morning fcveral natives came oflP, with the reft Comekela (that was brought by you from Macao to Nootka); from him we learnt there were five vefll-ls in Friendly Cove, but could not learn of what nation they wcrej however he informed us they had captured the North-Weft American fchooner, com- tnanded by Mr. Funter. We immediately conjectured that the veffels were fome belong- ing to Mr. Etches, and the American fliip and floop. We made all the fail we could, intending to get in that night if poffible. On our nearing the Sound we faw a floop coming out, which we were informed was the Princefs Royal, belonging to our concern. We then had not the leaft doubt but there were fome of Mr. Etches' veffels in the Cove. When we were about two miles from the entrance of the Sound, we Auv a boat coming towards us ; it was then between nine and ten o'clock, fo that we could not difcern of what country they were. They hailed us in Spanifli, and afked if ihey might be permit- ted to come on board. They were anfwered in the affirmative; on which they came alongfide, and the officer with fcveral other gentlemen ftepped up. Wc found the for- mer to be the Spnnilh Commodore ; thofe who accompanied him were of his (hip. After having welcomed them on board, Captain Colnett afked them down into the great cabin { what their convcrlation was there I am unacquainted with; but Captain Colnett foon told me his intention was to go into FiiciKlly Cove, and the Spanifli launch took us in tow accordingly. About ten minutes after this, Mr. Barnett came on board, whom I diredtly introduced to Captain Colnett, who informed him that there was a Spanifli frigate of twenty-fix guns, and a fnow of fixteen lying in the Cove, as alfo the American fliip and floop ; that the forn)er had crcifted a fort on Hog Ifland, on which fixteen guns were mounted, and had taken poUcffion of the Sound in the name of his moft Catholic Majefty H z Carolus m ■ tween them, and Captain Colnett infilled on going out immediately, which he faid he would do unlcfs the Commodore fired a (hot at him ; if fo, he would then haul down his colours, and deliver himfelf up a prifoncr: hardly had he uttered this, but he was put under an arreft, and his fword taken from him, the veflTel feized, and the officers and crew taken out, and fcnt prifoncrs, fome on board the fhip, and the reft on board the fnowi but what is moft particular, he defired Captain Kendrick to load his guns with fliot, to take a veOel that had only two fwivels mounted j fo that it ./as impofifible to make any refinance againft fuch fuperiority; indeed it would have been madnefs to have at- tempted it. The Commodore's paflion now began to abate a little, and he fcnt for me from the St. Carlos, where I was imprifoned : when I came to him, he feemed to profefs a very great friendfliip for me, and appeared to be exceedingly forty for what, he faid, his.officers compelled him to do. He declared to me, that he had given Captain Col* nctt pcrmiflion to depart, and would have affifted him all in his power, but that Captain Colnett infilled on ereifting a fort oppofite his j faid he reprefented the King of Great Britain, and that he came to take poflelfion in his Britannick Majefty's name. The Spa- niard quoted the fame, and faid he was reprefcntative of his moft Catholic Majefty the King of Spain: but I have every reafon to Uifpedt there was a mifunderftanding between the two parties, for the linguift fpoke Englilh very imperfedly, and in all likelihood in- terpreted as many words wrong as right. This is as particular and impartial an account of the above tranfadion as it is in my power to relate ; but as this will be accompanied by MefTrs. Funter and Barnett, who are permitted to take their paflTage in the American (hip, and who were eye-witneffes of every tranfidion, it will enable them to explain every par« ticular concerning it more explicitly than I am able to do in writing. Since 9 1 ti Since A P P N D I X. Since our being captiirrd, Captain Coinctt lias Viccn in a liigii Ihtc of inf;init)' ; fome- tiincs he flarts, at utlicrs hcafks iiovv long lie hi% to live } vvho is to be his executioner } what death he is to be put ro? with all I'uch delirious cxprcHlons, accompanied by a number of fimplc aiflions, which induces tiie, and every other pcrfon who fees him, to believe his brain is turned, owing to the great charge that was under his care; and I am forry to add, that he has not fortitude enough, in this critical and dif.igrecablc fituation, to fupport this uncxpctflcd llroke. He has delivered me his inftrudions and the South Sea Company's grant, and rcquells I will adl in his name. I have endeavoured to convince the Spaniards, had wc known this place had been taken polUflion of by the King of Spain, \vc would not, on any confulcration, have come near it : I have likcwifc wiflicd to per* fuadchim to pcrufc the South Sea Company's grant and our inftruttions j which he rc- fufes, and tells mc it would avail nothing now to do it, as his olliccrs infirt on his going on with what he acknowledges he tooralhly and haftily began, and without deliberating what might hereafter be the confequence. He dcfired me toinclofc the grant and our in- Hruftions in his prefencc; he took and put a fmall note with them, and afterwards fcalcd it with his own fignet : he then put it under my care, defiring that I would deliver it to the Viceroy of Mexico. The veflcl is going to St. Bias, a fettlenicnt they have in the latitude of 2i''3&' North, on the coaft of California, where wc are going, to determine whether wc arc a prize to the King of Spain or not j if we arc not, as we have every rcafon to cxpedt, (he will be delivered up with every thing in her, and be anfwcrablc for all damages ro- ceivcd or Rotes deficient, iince his making a prize of us ; but this undoubtedly will be fettled between the two crowns. Captain Colnett, myfelf, Mr. Temple, and Reid the carpenter, arc permitted to re. main on board the Argonaut ; Mr. Hanfon on board the Commodore's fliip j and Meflrs, Gibfon and Ludlow on board the Spanifli fnow. From what I can learn at prefent, all the Englifhmen are to be fent in the Argonaut to St. Bias, and preparations are now making to accommodate us in that veflel : they have alfo built cabins between decks for the feamen, where they are to be confined in irons during the night, but fuffered to walk out in the day ; the officers, I believe, arc alfo to be ufed in like manner. I am at prefent in pofleflion of my cabin, as arc alfo the reft of us, and the commodore behaves with great civility, by obliging us in every liberty that can be expefted as prifoners. Whatever deficiency may be left concerning our prefent tranf- adions, will be explained to you in its true light by Mr. Funter or Mr. Barnettj for I con- fefs that I am very unhappy, unfettled, uneafy, and in fliort, feel every anxiety that is the companion of a perfon involved in fo difagrecable a fituation as I am. I am. Dear Sir. Your's moft obedicntlv. (Signed) B. D U F F I N. P. S. / I '.i^9f% «» "**34 1 I ! APPENDIX. P. S. 1 am lorry to inform you that the Spaniards have taken the chief part of our copper, all our guns, ihot and powder, with the fpare canvafs, &c. The former he means to trade with, as I am informed he fends his furs to Macao by Captain Kendrick, who alfo trades for him on fliares. 1'c CtJpUm 'John Aleares. Noolka Sound, July \yh, 1789. DEAR SI K, CAPTAIN COLNETT has been in fuch a ftate of infanity ever (ince ihc vcffcl has been captured by the Spaniards, that we are obliged to confine him to his cabin ; yeftcrday morning he jumped out of the cabin window, and it was with great difficulty his life was faved; his condant cry is, that he is condemned to be hanged. I fincerely hope for his fpeedy recovery, but am apprehenfive he never will recover his for- mer fenfcs again : I underftand from the boy Ruffel that it is a family diforder, and that they all have fymptonis of madnefs, more or lefs. I have written the whole tranfaftion concerning our being captured, &c. previoufly to this, as minutely as prefent circum- ftances will permit, for I am apprehenfive, if I am feen writing, they will take my book, paper, pens, ink, &c. from mc, fo that whatever I have written is by Health} but Mr. Barnett has been fo obliging as to affift me as much as lay in his power to do it. Gib- fon was fccn writing one day, and they immediately took the paper and ink from him, and told him prifoncrs had no bufinefs to write. We are to-morrow to fail for St. Bias, v.ith all our officers and fcamcn both Englilh and Portuguefe, except thofe that have en- tered with the Spaniards. They have taken of our llores to themfelvcs, all our pitch, tar, canvas, twine, fome provifions of all kinds, guns, ammunition, the chief of our copper, and many other articles that we were not acquainted with. All the officers be- ing prifoners, fome on board one vcfTcl, and fome on board the other, we have great cxpedations that the veiVel will be delivered up at St. Bias. The Commodore promii'es me if flie is, every thing that he has taken to himfelf fhall be replaced at that portj but there has been a number of things taken out of the vcflcl by theft that he knows nothing of; neverthelefs, if any, and the vclTel is returned, they muft undoubtedly make it good : but you, Sir, and the reft of our employers muft be great fufTercrs, as it haa fruftratedall our expectations: had we not met with this misfortune, there were ftrong appearances of our procuring a great quantity of furs, as the Americans have no copper to purchafe with, fo that the natives rcfervc all their prime fkins cxpcding a copper fhip. If our velTel is delivered up to us, our ftores, trade, &c. returned, you may reftalTured I will do all that is in my power for the benefit of my employers, and the Captain re- mains in this ftate of inGmity ; if he recovers, he will undoubtedly do the fame. I can fay nothing more, but beg you will prefent my compliments to all enquiring friends, and remain, l^'^-^'^ ^"■» Your's nioft obediently, (Signed) IJ. D U F F I N. To Captain "John Afe.vTS. B F I N. « I APPENDIX. NootkaSoundtJuly 14, 1789. , DEAR SIB, YESTERDAY at two P. M. a fail was fecn in the offing, coming round Breaker's Point from the Southward, (landing into the Sound; as (he ncar- ed the Ihore we perceived her to be the floop Princefs Royal, Captain Hudfon: at feven flie came to an anchor about two or three miles from the Cove, and Captain Hudfon him- fclf came into the Cove in his boat, with four of his peoplej when inftantly as he made his appearance in the Cove, the Spanifli boat boarded him, and took him and his people on board the Commodore as prifoners. His motive for coming in, from what I could learn from himfclf, was to fee if Captain Colnctt was there, in order to receive his orders how he was to proceed in future. Whether Captain Hudfon's conduft in this proceeding was blameable or not, I leave to your fuperior judgment. We are now out of the Cove in the mouth of the Sound, and arc pofitivcly to fail to- morrow morning for St. Bias. The floop is towed into the Cove within all the Shipping; and the Spaniards, from every appearance, have finally captured her. Captain Hudfon fcems very much hurt at his misfortune, and candidly declares that it is entirely from his own fimplicity, and being too credulous of the Spaniaru'; honour, that has brought him into this difagreeable dilemma. Captain Colnett is much better to-day, and in general difcourfcs very rationally: I have endeavoured to perfuade him to draw out every particular concerning our being captured, to fend to his employers, which he refufes: his objeflion is, that he has involveil himfelf and every one elfe in difficulties that he is not able to extricate himfclf from, and therefore declares to me, that he will have no more concern with the charge of the velfel, but leaves every thing entirely to me, which I have, but moft reludlantly, complied with, knowing that I cannot acquit myfelf with fatisfaiftion to myfeif, nor undoubtedly more fo to my employers. Neverthelefs, If the vcffel is delivered up at St. Bins, as the Commodore gives me every reafon to hope that Ihe will, I will endeavour, to the utmoll in my power, to do every thing that may be any ways beneficial to my employers. TJie Commodore wanted Captain Colnett to fell all his copper to him, and he would give him bills for fame, as he valued it; which Captain Colnett had complied with, but I objeded, as I thought if his orders tolerated him to capture the vefTel, they would un- doubtedly tolerate him to capture the cargo likewife. We are deficient in a great deal of copper, as I mentioned in my formerj but Mr. Barnett will be able to inform you, I imagine, where it goes to. Accompanying this, I fend, under the care of Mr. Barnett, a copy of my journal front Macao, wherein you will find the principal occurrences that have happened to us iinco our departure. I have nothing more to add; neither have I opportunity to do it, the veflel being continually crowded with people from different Ihips; fo beg you will prc- fent my compliments to Mr. M'Intire, and every other gentleman in Macaoj and remain, D K A R SIR, To Captain John Meares, Moft obediently your's, B. D U F F I N. ' 9 111 MMi • m»» APPENDIX. A STATEMENT ef the ACTUAL and PROBABLE LOSSES fujlaimd hj /** Associated Merchants of London and India, by the Capture of their Ships, Sp. Doll. ACTUAL LOSSES. 5f To cifli paid the crew of the l]>higenia, on their reliirn to Chlnai being near two years wages, and other incidental expcnces incurred, for wliich vouchers have been Abtaincd To ca(h paid the crew of the N. W. America, be- ing near two years wapes, on their ret\irn to China; for which i-oncheri liavc been obtained To the equipment of the lliip Argonaut; for which vouchers have been obtained To the equipment of tlie Princcfs Royal; for which vouchers are re:idy to be produced To 473 fea otter (kins, feized on board the Piin. cefs Royai, at loo dollars per Ikin To I s fea otter (kins detained fur the particular ufc of Mr. Martinez, at the time valuation To the agent's e\pences in returning to Kngland To iufiirance on the principal (lock, at so per cent, the ufual premium To the lofs of the oflicers' charts, journals, nau- tical indrti.nents, (loathing, private goods, &c. the amount of which cannot now be arcertained> To the amount of wages due to all the fervantsof the alfociatcd Merchants now in captivity, from the tinieof their failingto the time of their return To the value of the North Weft America, on the .coaft of America Dill. .5.^ 3* 3.7 '9 39,gi6 47,300 1,100 1,000 13,864 ic,ooo Spani(h dollars, 153,433 PROBABLE L'OSSES. Ta the value of the cargo which probably woidJ have been collefled by the Iphigenia, 1 000 fea otters Ikins, at loo dollars per (kin To the vahie of the cargo which would probably have been obtained by the North Weft Ame- rica, 1000 fea otter (kins, at 100 dollars per (kin - - - To the value of the cargo which would probably have been obtained by the Prince(s Koyal, 1 000 fea otters (kin$, at 100 dollars per (kin To the value of llie cargo which would 'probably have been obtained by the Argonaut, 1000 Ikins, at 100 dollars per (kin To the lofs and deftriiilion of the commerce of the Aifociated Merchants To the particular lofs of the velTel of 30 tons, in frame, on board the Argonaut, and of the furs (lie would probably have obtained ioo,ooa too,ooa aoo,oaa Spanifli dollars, joo,oo9 INVENTORY c/ibeGoLS.TA.,thePr»pertye/Doti Juak Cawallo owrf Company, «/'MACAOi taken by Order of the Commandant Don Stepue^ Joseph Martinez. HER hull rotten, eaten thro\igh by tl;e worm, as appears by the (iirvey made by the malle^carpeQtcr and caulker, Ferdinand Campufano and Francis Jufeph dc Caftro, Her main-iiuft, fore-inaft, and boltl'prit, without top- mafts or poles. i'wo hooks fur fore-maft and main mart. The tackle for both mafts ; which, being of hemp, can only ferve flir oakiim or tow, being rotten. Her nid'ier, or helm ; lei-viieable. ' Her binnacle, with a compafs. A fmall iron anchor. ; ^ Two pieces of cable, from 40 braces long, for cables Wi (braces) of middle dimendons. Two larger ones. Two fore fails, one round-fail, one top-fa'.l, one togue. Some pieces of old cable. Six iron guns, caliber ». Six gu;i carriajves, 20 balls of 2, and 10 ditto finaller. Three copppr fwivel gtms, with their key.-. ; one ditto, wiiliout key. Five mufquets with bayonets, and 300 balls, and 6 piftols Half a cunctc of fine gunpowder, which is ('uppoli:d to weigh an arroba • ; and another ditto of common gun|iowder. One humlred and (ixty fliort iron fworls. Ten cooj)ers hatchets; and »o carpenters ditto. Ten (lips (or ingots) of the iron called platina, which are computed to weigh two quintals. Seventy eight Ihort pieces of iron, computed to weigh one quintal. • Abtulttvoiij-dgbipatinJs. Three large iron bars, computed tu weigh 699lbs. Thirteen liiiall water calks; and i ditto for a provifion of water. One b.irrcl of pork. Two ditto empty, all in pieces. Eight old fmall pewter di hes, fonie of them broken. One pot of caft iron, frying-pan and ftew-pan of ditto. On board the vclfel at anchor in the river of this port of St. Lawrence of Noo'ka, iith June, 17S9. Signed Jof. Tovarand Tamariz, Rob. Fnnter, Thos. Barnet, ( Uaphael de Canizarbs. Tlii" ij a copy of the original, triplicates whcieof were (igned by the above-mentioned pcrfons, and which is left in my care to tranfmit to H. E. the Viceroy of New Spain, for his fuperior determination. Dated as above, Raphael dk Canizares. I, Don Stephen Jofcph Martinez, enlign of the (hip be- longing to the Royal Navy, and commander in chief of the veli'els of his Catholic Majefly upon this coaft, and in the port of St. Lawrence at Nootka, do declare. That I have received from Captain Dn. Robert Funter, and pilot Dn. Thomas Barnet, every article contained in the preceding inventory, as being ti.e property of Un. John Caw alio and Co. of Macar, until the determination of his Excellency the Viceroy of New Spain, to whom I liave given an account by this date for his fuperior orders; an.l, at the requeft of the faid concerned, I gavetlie prefent receipt on board this frigate, the Prince(i^ under my command, in tlic port af St. Lawrence of Nootka, 13th July, i7»j. SrSrHEN JOSSFH Martinex.