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Un des symboies suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". IVIaps. plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre film4s A des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 A partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthocfe. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 32X Voii^i-.^yuenls of Uic Auth-vi ALL AROUND THE BAY OF PASSAMAQUODDY WITH THH INTliRPRETATION OF ITS INDIAN NA.MtS OF LOCALITIES BV ALBERT s. GA rscHirr Hni'KivrHip iHoM TnK N stional < ii;oi;i! ai'iik M \';azinl, V<>i ■ Vi 1 1. No I .lANI'AliV, 1S'.».7] WASniNdlDN, J). V. Jl'nii \ DKTWKII.IU. 1"H1STI:US 18«7 ALL AROUND THE BAY OF PASSAMAQUODDY By Albkut S. Gatschict, Bureau of American Ethnology Travelers coming from the south will find in the deeply in- dented coast lands of the state of Maine a type of landscape differing considerahly from others previously noticed. Through the fiord-like character of Maine's tidewater section the water element every where blends in with terra Jivmn, which alternatel}' projects and recedes, and by the woU-marked color contrast be- tween tlie blue ocean and the green orsomber-hued earth strikes our sight agreeald}'. The level shore lands of the southern At- lantic states are here replaced by hills, headlands, and capes of bolder outlines, partly clothed in the fainter green of northern vegetation, while other elevations exhibit the rocky, ocean-beaten foundation upon which they are built. The dark-hued pine and fir trees, which in other countries live in the mountains oidy, here descend to the sea-coast, enlivening the tops and sides of the numerous islands which lie scattered along the coast. The further we proceed northeastward along the coast, the more the scenery assumes a northern character. This is well evidenced by the spare vegetation and the tiiinness of the^uimus which we notice everywhere in and around I'assamaquoddy bay, an extensive basin, the waters of which are fed by the majestic St Croix river from the north and by the St George or Megigadevic river from the east. The mainland encompasses this bay on all sides, fringing it witii rock-bound promontories and some flat sand spits ; only on the southeast side does it open toward the Atlantic ocean, and tliere a row of islands forms its limit and affords numerous passages suitable for navigation. The elevations encircling the bay of Passamaquoddy, though bolder than those we see further south, are mostly flat-topped and of tame outlines. They are ncciring an incline of 20 to 30 degrees, and therefore the local erosion through the impact of rain is not very considerable. None of the hills or islands in the bay rise above sea level more than about 300 feet. A feature that may be pertinently called the hendlmid shore is prominent here- Whenever a portion of the mainland or of one of the larger islands in this region advances toward the salt water it first 16 17 ALL AliOVND THE HAY OF PASSAMAqVODUY sinks down, forming ii dopresHion. and then rinos an a knoll or rounded hillock or hill heloro it plunges its rocky face abruptly into tile ocean. These forniatioiv-i, appropriately termed hauh or heittUaiiiln, are frecpmnt all around l*assama(]Uoddy hay, Campo- hello islanil, Cohscook hay, and in many otlu^r sections of the Maine and New Brunswick coasts. JJeaches liilcd with coarse gravel, the detritus of the rocky shores, form the transitory stage between the headlands and the more level promontories or points. Not infrcipiently one headland succeeds another in a line; before reaching the water, and even aftisr reaching the shore they reap- pear, jutting out from the Ijriu}' element, two or three in suc- cession, and lying in one continuous fde. This I have observed, c. (J., on the north shore of Cohscook bay, west of Kastport, Maine. ('ampo])ello island. New Brunswick, is replete with "heads" on its far-extending shores, the islantl being eleven miles long from north to south ; thus we have V>;\h\ liead, Wilson liead, East Quoddy head. Friar's head. Head harbor— whereas the term " point," less frecpient there, ai)pears in more numerous in.stances on the west side of the ba}' and u[) the St Croix river. Two large whlrlpoids, perceptible in the channel of the St (h'oix river, are objects of great curiosity to the strangers visiting these parts. One of them occurs between Moose island and the southern end o*^ Deer island. New Brunswick ; the other, of minor propor- tions, lies two miles above, the river being over one mile wide at each i)lace. They are carefully avoided by people passing, either in a white man's boat or in the Indians' canoe, for, like Char^'bdis of old, they are liable to capsize any small craft that ventures to come too near. They owe their existence not exclusively to the shock produced by the impact of the currents from the bay meet- ing those of the river, but also to the incoming tides and to a difference of temperature between the two bodies of water. The air temperature is generally low on the bay and around it. Winter begins in Octol)er, and even at midsummer persons who are not provided with warm clothing will often feel a chill pervading their system when a sudden breeze breaks in from the north or a thick fog stays till noontime over the ever-moving waters. The weather is generally serene throughout the year, but nevertheless morning fogs are of frequent occurrence. The Canadian Pacilic is the only railroad company that brings visitors to the hospitable shores of Passamaquoddy l)a\', but there are nutnerous steamboats plying between St Andrews, St Ste- phen, Calais, and Eastportand the neighboring cities of St Johns, ALL AROUND THE BAY OF PASSAMAQUODDY 18 Bar Harbor, and Portland. Whother the touriHt visits tho.so parts for si^htsoeiiif^or t\)r nistorinj; inipairuil iiealtli l»y tlicaid oftlu'ir l>racinSV Fi'(iiici'< IihIIuhs of Canada ; ('•>) the I'dxaidiuKjiKKldic^, k whose nearest kinsmen are (4) the Millrilc.-*, or Ktchcmins (this I is their .Micniac name) , scattered idong the St .lohns river, New Brunswick ; (o) the Mimuics, settled in Nova Scotia and on the east coiist of New I'runswick. The present Passamaipioddics arcMhout five huntlriul in num- ber, and a large intermixture with white blotxl has takei^ place, wdnch according to a safe estimate nniy amount to one-third of the tribe. In about the saine |»roj»ortioii they have also preserved their Indian vernacular, which among its Kuropean loan words counts more i)f English than of French origin. Many of these natives exhibit unmistakably the full physical niarks of Indiiin descent — the long, stnught, and dark hair, the strong nasal i»one, and a rather dark complexion. The cheek-bones are not very l)rominent. The majority of the tribe are slim-built and of a medium stature. They are not increasing, and their Indian congeners on the Penobscot river an; positively on the decrease. No central chief rules over these I ndians now, but each of their three settlements in Maine has a sagum or elective governor. These settlements all lie on watercourses or on the seashoie. The one nearest to Kastport is at Pleasant point, near the town of Perry ; another is in a suburb of Calais, and a third one for. inerly liv ed npo]| T.tnvis island, but transferred its seats. tj ) the neighboring Peter Da na's ])oint, near Princeton , on the Kcmjj3- ^ l ^assis river, ahout 42 nnlcs "nortli of Kastport. Fishing is one of their chief industries, but in this they now follow entirely the example set by the white man ; they care nothing for agriculture, and their village at Pleasant point is l)uilt upon the rockiest and lU AfJ. AliOVM) TIIK HA V CF J'ASSAMAQCODny I 1 : (I most un|)n)(lu(;tiv(; {^'rouiid tlmt could Imve hoon soloctod. 'I'ho Hiimc niiiy Iks Huid of hoiius «)tlu!r Indian HottliMnnntH, Tor inimy liidiiinH do not rotiuin! any better soil to rest their houses upon. The industries now rorniiiit,' their main support are the nian- ufaetun; of toy lioats I'rom hireh l»ark,ot' lishinj,' canoes from the same material, of fans from ash-wood, and, ehioHy, of ornann'ntal and fanciy l)ask(!ts from the wood of the yellow ash. The haskiitH are made hy the women, and durinj^ the sunnner season th(! mini sell them in the markets, (\speeially at the watering places and in the comuK'rcial centers of the eastcirn states. 'I"he women ilisplay a hi;,di deiv1^ m1 in Passamaiiuod dv ov er,the whole of~Washingt(>n and Hancock counties , iipart of Aroostook county, Maine, and over the western part of the New Brunswick territory. Just as large as this historic area was that of tlie Penobscot dialect, for, as the local names still demonstrate, it embraced the whole Penobscot river basin, with the valleys of its numerous tributaries. Inquiry into the signification of historic and actual geographic names of Indian origin has of late become j)opular among the educated classes of Americans. It is just twelve years since Charles Godfrey Leiand encouraged those who might be able to accomplish the task to solve the riddles contained in the names of that country, mo.st of which have a sound so musical and harmonious?.* Long acquainted with the great historic value of ♦The Century Muenzine. New York, 1884, vol. 28, pp. C68-077, in I.elnnd's artlolo : "Legends" of the I'lissnmiiquoddies." ii V ■ ^-^«== ALL MiOVM) Till': HAY OF I'MSSAMAUlODhY 'M to)mf»m)>ln(' ntuiics, Ti«'liui(rsHU<.'}i('sti()n iiKluccd iiic.uliilc study- in;; tl)(! (liiiloct, to list(Mi to tlu^ opinions of cnpiiltlc hxliiins \vli(>ii r ro((Ui!st(!hinset, Millinoket.()guni)V HAY, maim:, with tiikik dkuivaiionh Bar Haibor, Moniit Drncrt, iiml Mount DcHcrt Mi\\u\ arc all calicil in hiilian IVi-Hank or IV'Hsan, "at the (•lanl•lli^^^in^{ plac*' or plairH;" fVoiii ('MM, "mIk'II," ii't'iMiinj; licrt'to tlu'clani only ; |) prcllx, an ver- bal (Mxiill^. Bay of Fuudy, a Htorni-iM-ati'ii conn'r of liic Atlantif ocean ln'twt'OiJ C^\A>v*' — ^ .No\ I. Scotia ami New l5rnnH\vick, is to tiie iniiiaiis Wekwalieyituk, " waves at the lieail of the hay," -tuk referring' to «aters iliivt-n in waves or nioveil l»y tiie tidt*. Nowhere else in the world are the tiden so hi^.'h as in tliis iiay. (See (hik bay.) Ijl Bishop's point, a locality on north head of (irand Manan island, New Hrnnswick. its Indian name, Mndebe-nhij.'en, means death-trap of whales, from bndebi'ii, "whale"; -hi^en, a sntlix which stands for " tool '" or " iiistrnmcnt." Campobello island, New Mrnnswick, is called Kbay:wi'dek, from its posi- tion between Maine and the nuiinland of New I'lrnnswick, " llontin^r between ;" cba, bet ween ; ^widen, (loatiii;;. Another Indian .lame ^^> for this island is Ivllitik, which seems to refer to the sn*"^. ""' "'*' I'ttlo island of trees." Misi is "tree" or "trees;" misik, "where trt'CH stand;" ncVu, abbreviation of m'nfkn, "island;" -sis, diininutivo endinj;. Cobscook bay, a body of salt water lyin^' west and southwest of Moos»> island. It is th(> Indian term kiipskid;, "at the waterfalls." The tide, rising: here daily to about twi-nty l"eet, enters into the sinuosi- ties of the sliorelands, and the waters returning: to the ocean form rapids, i-i(Iles, or cascades (kiipsku). ^ ^1 .^ Deer island, New Hrnnswick, a larj.'e isle at the southern extremity of r\,' I'assanuKpioddy buy, is Kdi'iki ui'niku, "of the deer tin- island." • D'Orville's head, eminence where St Croix river empties into Tassama- (pioddy bay ; KwaKUstelms'k, " at the dirty mountain ; " from kwa^- weyu, "dirty;" tchus, "mountain;" -k, locative particle, "at." The name was long ajro corrupted into the more popidar " Devil's liead." UL^ ^ ^ •»,^ Eastport, city and harbor, has the same It 'ian mime as Moim- idun il. upon whi(;li it is built, Miiselenk. This is a corruption from the hy- brid compound !Mus-i11;ind'k, its .second half being a corruption of ixUiiiif, with the locative -k appended. The locality wheie the las moo.se was killed, about a century ago, lies on its northern part. The genuine Indian name for Moose island is Mus m'nfkn. The Moose ielanders (and the Kasti)ort people especiall- ) are called MusCieniek. Eel brook, a small rivulet at the northern end of (irand ^lanan island, is in Indian Katekadik, which stands for Kat-akadik, and signifies " where (-k) eels (katj are plentiful (akiidi)." ^c^ »AJ u'JM^A MdOSO The 111 form iiiity i)f ISJ^tllllil- k wiij;- '•at." Devil's Ill" liy- tii>n of lie liiH Tlie .Aloose I'niek. i»ian(l, ijriiitlef ,v^? \] M.i. AHovsh Tin-: ii.tr or i'.issA.)t.i<^((nn>y 22 »*i ^- Oardiiet's lake, in Marhin-i fowiidiip, 'ix callnl NrmdaniHw' .imiin. tlio tcriii iii'iinlain ilcMiuMuitiii;; a H|M'i-i('H of ficsli-watt'i' ll»'li niHliiii^ up ' ookn mid I'liuiiiit'N i U''"!. niniiiril ) ; li^iiiii, "liik«'." Grand Manaii, .New llniii-wii'k. a laru'f i^laml willi liiyli "lioics, south of l'iiHMaiiiai|iio(|(ly lniy, i^ tlic MiMiamik of the linliaiis. Die iiaiiut prohalily Hi),;iiilleM "at the iHlaini " in the Mirinae ilialert. Berring cove, a iaiife sea-linifh oiitheeiot side of ('aiiijioliell.i island, I facinu I'nndy hay ami (irand .Manaii inland, is ealleil rilihaiiikfak.l "at the lon^{ lieacli ; " pilt'li(''yii, ('/ in Iidhj ; anik, i/rmd; kie, lumli ; locativti cane, kfak. This cove hits lately heen iiiadi' uccessilile hy a }rood road leaHx -iieL"is./ "at the tree islan d." The iiatjie of C 'lerrv island di. v.) is a diinimiy live of this. Kendall's head, a hold headlami in northern part of Moose island And y^j^ faein;; Deer islaml, New llninswiek, upon the " westt-rn pttssa;,'e " of . jv***" !^t Croix river, is railed by the Imlians \Vahf),'eii(''k, of " at th-whilo .1 k~ hone," or WahiVt^n, "white hoiu'," from tliu^'VNliile coin'- of a rock led>;e on its top; wiihi, irhitc ; -)"'"^r -t^^n, Imiif ; -k, nl. Kunaskw&mkuk, ahhreviiited frecpieiitly into Knnaskwamk. is a eoin- prehensiv*' name jriven to the town of St .\inli('ws. New Ihiiiiswick, to the heights ahove and north of it, where the AI;;on(piin hotel is . erected, and to the coast between St Andri'Ws and .loe's jtoint. The name sinnities "at the jfravel beach of the pointed top;" kniiii, " point," referring to a sandbar projectinjf into the hay ; knnaskwa, "pointed top or extremity;" aink, "^travel," and here " ^jravelly beaeli;" -nk, locative ending;, til, on, ii/mii. Lubec, a village sonth of Kastport, at the narrows 1 ?tween Campohcllo island and the mainland of Maine, is called Kehamki'ak, "at the beach forming the narrows." Kebe-ik means "at the narrows," and is the same word as the Oree and Moiitajjnais: Kehek, (jihluc, in ('anada ; -ki'ak is the locative case of kie, "at the beaeli or beaches." Maohias and East Machias, two towns on the sonthern trend of tlit> ]Maine eoast, in WaHliinsCot river, Calais, is mt, means ;lish si)ell- nounce it or'-skip- e the sur- s a suffix, the '.lanie es on the food- fish, is article. Eastport, lis Indian scientific ALL AROUND THE HAY OF PASSAMAQUODDY ■24 Schoodic St Croi origin, '"or a long distance it forms the frontier heiwccn Maine (Was'liiiigton county) and New Bnniswick. The French name, " Holy Cro.«H," came from a cross erected by early French explorers. St Francis river, in Canada, Ontario province, upon which Indians cognate to tlie Penobscots of Maine are living, is called by tliem Lesigantuk, a contraction of IJlastig.'in-tuk. The same name is given to their village and to the natives themselves. St Oeo.ge and St Seorge river, emptying into tlie northeast end of Pas-samaqnoddy bay, are just as well known by their Indian name, Megigadowik, "many eel.'- having;" from nu'gi, maiii/ ; gat or kat. eel; -wi, adjectival ending; -k, locative case sullix. St John river, running near the western border of New Brunswick and its large tributary, the Aroostook, are both called in Penobscot anil in Passamaquoddy, Uia.stuk, "good river," meaning river of easy navigatiop, without cascades, falls, or rapids; from ula, wuli, (jood ; -tnk, tida. liver and watfa driven in waves. I . ,- ( ffluent of " on the reviation jwnship, nail red