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'•**;*»** 5*1-^*';* ig^' %■'' k vx i 's> :.-fr '■«^ iWnWft * ■■' ■i»Hiinwnm.rf ■.-.■. l ^..^ ^ t'" h K SPEECH OF MR. SEWARD AT SITKA, AUd. 12th, 186i). Oitimui/ Jlaska, Fdloto CUimta^ the United Statet:-^ m ; 'r; , Yon have preiRed me to meet yOo iii 'puifM aiU^Vlf^"' once before I leave Alaska. It would be sheer affeotation td pretend to. „^ donbt^oarsincerUj in making this request and oai^ioiondlr tihgnLteftiVt0' -^^ refuse it, efter having -eceived so many and varied hospitini ties 'flroml Aft, ^^ aorta and cdnditions of men. It ia not an easy ta^lc, hovev6r.,i6 speak ita i manner vorthj of your consideration, while I am living question satisfactorily. The entire coast line of the ttnnSra $tai(te, excfB'.'i'; siveof Alaska, ia 10,000 miles, vhile thaeoafat line of Alaska alone,' inclnd^' ing the islands, is 26,000 miles. The portion of the Tbrritbry wh^cft liiM " ,' east of the peninsula, including tslnnds, js 120 miles wide ; the western ttbr-),: tion incindlng the Aleutian Is^nda expandk t^ bh*i(^t|i bf 2^00iiiileB. Th<„;^' entire land area including islands is 577;&Ml lita^ttr 8<|ua.re 'ail^^ I Wof,'^ should thldk a foreigner very br^nrnptttons jWqO '^^Id braininfl to gtV^ vH^: ' world an opinion of the whoM of the 0n(t^ Stnte^ 6f Amerloti. ailieJr tie' '! !' had merely looked in from his steamer iit Plyinjcnitb and Bbston'Hiicbor, br . '*' had rnh np the Hudson Riv4r to the tUpkn^. Ok* had, dscend'ed thb D^i^"" ware to Trenton, or the JamwBiver to BiOMoOpd, or the'llfttHis^i^l 06 ' farther than Memphis. My observation of Ataskk iShiiEilit' liii^ haMIy' Veisn, more fiomprehensive. I entered the Territoi'y at tb^l^oirtliiiA' i^ann),; giade " my Way through the narrow passtures of the I^n^ .l^f .t^l^a^./Ai^tti^^ thenise through Peril and Chatnanx Straits ""' ""-"•-""' Ghilcat River to the base of Fair#^thiir, returned throdgh Clarouce Sthtits.to SojOQtn bay undef the shadows of i^ 'Bkm^^ " Limited, however, as niy omlfbinitlM'^ apofog/, ^ve you tlie impiyniip Hati)' Of course I speak first 6f tra^kiel of _, the case of Alaska i]^| k^fttiT wIljU^ fezten^b'l^^ 58 4«%reeiS of ioii- gitncle, 4^d einbraeM^tioiiwks weilt bf the ixetibu WtlieTeinne)rftt^ %)»l^' - unlikrdn other Jjgforis so sitt^l^MWfc'iibt several iilTpiates.%nt —"" "^^ ' TuVWi^iti^r fif^s one bMillI bUi^'Qp Alaski Is ^V^-^'^- butS'de 'dtrcles lor being ^b wet sMm oold^ NevmKeff^" fastid^ttus tierson who cbmblaUei (^f bTiii^«esUAlU^'#ldlb t^b i to sbat, the hnntmingr bird didbs nt' dU^nlb tb iftiitt^i 'ifmH. the partionlar mrim It^ which l¥tfbw, My Visit ll«p^ witm tb'^8d t^ days, and M the eiariy inotitf ' ai^d W th^Uto bVenini^ seasbb,! hft^f loit tii]^ in adbifktibli bit *KittL'«do7#'wi gold i«rlehU> «ithb«e.tr1^b1i.U^ reflected' % the ibonlig&ts in the wbrld ebW^^'d ttb iblthbii ^ pel4kbi''bf the^iSbrUi Phdijfo 'dbe«iHi '•'B^ii.lafi - Ut'OD the BUd*(»n iM'« A £^W^«ttd^S^ litad Mb&ni twill, 'withbfit It s^nis tb tie tisein^ddMiv ;. (llll Norih',t*^flf wa V4i34i 'm^±^^ f ^"'''ip'^^p'^wpiaviiwiiiiiqv J ^■""^•'••^[••••pf 1 ^^ fc Seward, wo do have ohangeable weather hero Bometimoa as thej do in the other States." I might amend the expression by adding the woathor here is only t little more changeable. It must bo confessed at least that it is on horcst Climate, for it makes no pretensions to constancy. If, howovcr, you hire fewer bright sunrises and glowing sunsots than Southern latitudes enjoy, tou are favored on the other hand with more frequent and more mnsiniflccnt displays of the aurora and tho rainbow. The thermometer tells the whole case when it reports that the summer is colder and the winter is warmor in Alaska than in New York and Washington. It results from the nature of such a olimato that the earth prefers to support tho iir, tho spruce, tlie pine, the hemlock and other evergreens, rather than deciduons trees, and to fur- nish grasses and esculent roots, rather than tlie cereals of drier and hotter climates. I have mingled freely with tho multifarious population, the Ton- ?a88, the Stickcens, the Cakes, the Hydahs, the Sitkas, the Kootznoos and the !hilcats, as well as with the traders, the soldiers, the geamcn and tho settlers of various nationalities, English, Swedish, Russian and American, and I have seen all around me only persons enjoying robust and exuberant health. Manhood of every race and condition everywhere exhibits activfty and energy, while infancy seems exempt from disease and age velieved from pain, it is next in order to speak of tho rivers and seas of Alaska. The rivers are broad, shallow and rapid, while the seas are oeep but tranquil. Mr. Sumner, in his elaborate and magnificent oration, although be spake only from historical accounts, has not exaggerated— no man can exaggerate— the marine treasures of the Territory. Besides the whale, which everywhere and at all times is seen enjoying his robust exercise, and the sea-otter, tho fur-seal, the hair-seal and the walrus, found in tlie waters which embosom the western islands — those waters as well as the seas of the Eastern Archipelago are found teeming with the salmon, cod and other fishes adapted to the sup- port of human and animal life. Indeed, what I have seen here has almost made me a convert to the theory of some naturalists that the waters of the globe are filled with stores for the sustenance of animal life surpassing the available productions of the land. It fDust be remembered that the coast range of mountains which begins in Mexico is continned into the Territory and invodes the seas of Alaska. Hence it is that in the islands and on the mainland, so far as I have explored it, vfe find ourselyes^evOTjwbere in the immediate presence of black-liills or foot-1^ »a they |kf«Tanoqaly called, and that these foot-hills are overtopped by ri'd^M of 80oii'-(^pped mountains. These snow-capped mountains are roan'ifestiv of v%it»ii!d origiii/and they have been subjected through an inde- finite period to atmospheric 9,|)rasion and disint^ration. Hence they have assumed all conceivable shaped and forms.. In some places they are serrated into sharp, angular peaks, and in other places they appear architecturally arranged so as to present cloud-capped oastics, towers, domes and :ainarets. The mountain sides are furrowed with deep and straight ravines down whioh the thawing fields of ice and snow are precipitated, generally in the month of May, with such a vehemence as to have produced in every valley immense level plains of intervale land. These plains as well as the sides of the moiiBt^ns almost to the summits are covered with forests so dense and dark as Ui be jmpenetral>le except to wild beasts and ravage huntsmen. On the lowfist iatervate land the Cottonwood grows. It seems to be the species of poplar vJhich is ^nown in tho Atlantic States as the Balm of Gilead, and whibh is dwarfed on the Bocky Mountains. Here it takes on such large dimensions that the Indian shapes out of a single trunk even his great war canoe which safely b^rs over the deepest waters a phalamt of sixty warriors. These imposing trees always appear to rise out of a jungle of elder, alder, crab-a^ple and other frnit-bearing shrubs and bushes. The short and slender birch waioii, sparsely scattered, marks jthe verge of vegetation in Labrador, has not yet been reached by the explorers of Alaska. The birch tree sonie- times appears here upon the river side, upon the level next above the homd of the Cottonwoqd, and is generally found a comely and stately tree. The forests 0>f Ala^a, however, consist mainly neither of shrubs, nor of the birch, Dor of the cottQQWood, but as I liave already intimated, of the pine, the cedar, the '(ijri»re38, tM spruce, the fir, the larch and the hemloclt. These forests JL_ ii irr i «h i i y ii>jA «j iMw*«i h w ;^C ■ fO" or Tjcgin Almost at the water's edge, and thoy rise with rcprular gradation to a height of 2000 foot. Tho troos nowhoro dwarfnd or Jimiaulive attain the higliest dimensions in sonny expos^ urea in tho deeper canyong or gorges of the niountaios. Tlio cedar somntimea called tho yellow cedar, and sometimes tiie fragrant cedar, was long ago imported into China as an ornamental wood and it now furnishes the majestic beams and pillars with which tiie richer and more ambitions native chief delights to construct his rnde but spacious hall or palatial residence, and upon which he carves in rnde symbol- ical imagery the ueraldry of hia tribe and achievements of his nation. No beam or pillar or spar or roast or plank is ever required in either the land or the naval architecture of any civilized state (greater in length and width than tho trees which can be hewn down on the coasts of the inlands and rivers here, and conveyed directly thence by navigation . A few gardens, fields and meadows have been attempted by natives in some of the set- tlements, and by soldiers at the military posts with most encouraging results. Nor must we forget that the native grasses ripening late in a humid climate preserve their nutritive properties though exposed, while the climate is so mild that cattle and horses require but alight provision of shelter during the wiater. Such is the island and coast portion of Eastern Alaska. Kla-kautch, the Ghiloat, who is known and foared by the Indians throughout the whole Territory and who is a very intelligent chief, informs mo that beyond the mountain range which interveues between the Gbilcatand the.Yukon Rivers yon descend into a plain unbroken by liills or mountains, very fertile, in a genial climate, and, at far as he could learn, of boundless extent. We have similar information from those who have traversed the interior from the shore of the Portland Canal to the upper branches of the Yukon. We have rea- son, therefore, to believe that oeyond the coast range of mountains in Alas- ka we shall find an extension of the rich and habitable valley lands of Ore- gon, Washington Territory and British Columbia. After what I have already said I may excuse myself from expatiating on the animal (/roductions of the forest. The elk and the deer are so plenty as to be undervalued for food or skins . by natives as well as strangers. The bear of many families, black, grizzly and cinaamon, the mountain sheep, inestimable tor his fleece, t'ne wolf, the fox, the beaver, the ott«r, the mink, •the raccoon, the marten, the ermine, the squirrel, grey, black, brown and fly- .ing, are among the land far-bearing animals. The furs thus found here bave been the chief element for more than a hundred years, of the profitable Qom- merce of tho Fluddon's Bay Company, whoso moro possessory pririleges seem even at this late day too costly to find a ready purchaser. This fur trade, together with the sea feiTti'ade withio the Territory, were the sole basis alike of Bussiaa commerce and empire on this continent. This commerce was so large and important as to indnoo tho governments of Russia and China to build and maijDtain a town tat carrying on its exchanges in Tartary on the border of tho two empires. It is well understood that the supply of furs in Alaska has not diminished while the demand for them in China and else- where has immepsely increased. I fear that we must confess to a failure of ice as an element of territo- rial wealth, at least as far as this immediate region is concerned. I find that the Russian American Company, whose monopoly was abolished by the Treaty of Acquisition, depended for ice exclusively upon the small lake or natural pond which furnishes the power for your saw mill in tliis town, and that this dependence has now failed by reason of the increasing mildness ot the winter. The California Ice Company are now trying tho small lakes of Kodiao, and certainly I wish them success. I think it is not yet ascertained whether glacier ice is pure and practical for commerce. If it is, the world may be supplied from the glaciers which, suspended from the region of the clouds, stand fo.'th, in the majesty of ever wasting and ever renewed trans- lucent moontaias upon the banks of the Stickecn and Ghilcat Birers, and the shores of Gross Sound. f~ Alaska has been as yet but imperfectly explored. But enough is kqowa to assure as that it possesses treasures of what are called the baser ores, ec^nal to those of any othe^r region of the continent. We have Copper ledand t;i434x >*i I iiiyi | iii — a 6 ftn^ Copper Rlter, so named Mfliaphc* #hot'erthbli!itir«8, before thi period of the ttiissian discorerf, Had procured the pure metal from which thoy fabricated instrnments of war and Ibgendttry BhleWs. lo retard to iron, the question seemg to be not Whore it o* lias WBthl^aa.. ! The JShelu;^ cd(»HjWai'"VI^»'"'>3^'«P»t» llWW'0<"«WHi%fr"£» ,(!! I., .^'-' illiiLMlii.,\,Jhif( mmmfBsmKP^ I ; I] % ,% .cither recoirsi.iio qmrtv ortubmitafor binuelf and his progenr to perpetoal ' f|Qver7. I^ iiaa tbaa happened that the Indian tribes of Alaska have, noTer ^thcr confederated or fonped permanent alliances and that oven at this lau) djigr, in the pre«cnc« of anperior power eixarcited by the United States Qot- eninent th^j live in, reeard,to eack either in a state of enforced and doubtful tEflce. It 18 manifest that under tb^ oircumBtancea they raust nteadily in- ollne in Dumbers and unhl^pik t^ia decline is accelerated by thoir borrof- JK ruinoDS vic^s from the wnite- ,piu. Such as the natives of Aladia are , Ikey are nevertheless,, in a praotici^ sen^ the only laborers at present in tlio "^^ritory. The white man oooifs amo^lBit them from London, from St Pete - burg, fJrvm BQstpn, £ro;o. New Toft, from 8an Francisco, and frqm Victor. ■ , {ot to fish ( if wfl except alque the irhf i«-&B««ry ) or to hnut, but ainply )n ay what Mi and what peltries, ice, wood, lumber and coal the Indiana have . n^ured undt:." toe superinteiidAnipeof temporarv agents or factors. When wo ,,opu8ider bow greatily moat of the tribes are reanoed in numbers, and how pro- ciariouB their roca^^oos are, we shfJI cease to regard them as indolent or iora- pable, and on the contrary we slu41 more deeply regret thai ever before, tL it •':% people so gUted b^ iiatnre, to Tj^otoaa and ejaergeiic, and withal so dpcilo and gentle in tb^ir i^tercoiu^ with U^ white man, can neither be presecved MB a distinot social compujaity nor inoontoiAted into our society. The Id- f^wa. tribes will 4o here as they soem to have done in Washington Territory jlfid British QpliMnbia. They wiU merely serT^ the torn until oi vilized wbi \ft men co^e. Too, thei oitueospi^ Sitka, are, thiepjo^iieers, the adyanced gnard of the fu* twe popDli^tion 01 A|«^f^ ««d joh iifttiKaiMy ask when, from whence, and how spOiikjwiofovvemeDte *^f4^ opilte, apa ,what ^re the signs and gvajranteefl 'OT their coming? This question, with all its minnta and searching intejrnQn- .tipps, .'\ai been .aakod by- th^. pioneeir^ of »yerf . S^t* Vtd Territpiy of w)»icti ,;Ufi AauBriepn V^^ is. now cfti^jpejied, $m the histotr of those States aad Tnrittfrtes fbrnisnes the complete, conoIQsiTe[f^}4 ^^^j^'7 ¥f(^IV' il^P- igrants rv to every infont state and Territory in' obedience to the gpreat aatoral law that obliges needy men to seek subsistence, and iavites advento- rous men to seek fortune, where it is mott easily obtaiited, atid t^ is always in the new and nnonltiTated regions. TiMy go from every State and Terri- tory, and from every foreign nation in America, Europe and Asia, because do estat|lidMd.aDd popal^ stt^ or nati<^ can guarantee rubsistence and ibr- time to an who owiiilid thilpi iaatftag ita inhabitanta. ' The gaacantoes tnd signs of their coming to Alaska are found in tuOfe- wuroes of the Territory, which I have attempted to describe, and in the oon- dition^ society in other parts of the world. Some men seek other climes for health and some for pleasure. Alaska invites the former class by a oli- inata sintrolarly salubrious and the latter class by seenenr which surpasses in sublimity that of iither the Alpih the Appenines, tbe AJI^nanies or the Boeky Mountuns. Emigrants from our own States, from Euro^ and from Asia will not be rlow in finding out that fortunes are to be gained by pursuing here the oocnpations whicn have so sucoepsfully sustained races of untutored men. Oiviliation and refinement are making more rapid advances in our day than at any former period. The rising States and nations on tliis Con- tinent, the European nations, and even those of Eastern Apia have exhausted or are ezhansting their own forests and mines and are sooDdto become largely dependent upon those of the Pacific The entire region ofOregon, Washing- ton Torritory, British Columbia and Alaska, seem Uius destined to Lecome a shipytud for the supply of all nations. I do not forget on this oooasion that British Columbia Delongs within a foreign Jurisdiction. That circumstanco does ncimaterjally affect my calculations. British Columbia, by whomso- ever possessed, must be governed in conformity with the interests of her pto- pie and of society upon the American continent. If that territory shall be so governed there will be no ground of complaint anywhere. If it shall be gov- erned BO as to conflict witf the iaterests of the inhabitants of that territory and of the United States, we all car easily foresee what will h»ppra >a that ease. You will ask me, however, for guarantees that the hopiii I enconrago iriU not be j ostponod. I givo them. Withia ths i^fti^,of^,s^,j:ffl#l!«;»o% i M ^m^m P«^ State- ■U; r«-f V Bssa Jte i ♦ . ' > 1 8 : Bdded to die eighte«a wbich berore that time oonstitatod the Amoricaa Union, tnd I now lee beaidefl Alaska, ten territories in a forward condition of preparation for entering; into tlio same great political faipily. I have floea in mj Dim time notonl/ the first electrie teIegi^{A, bnt oven the first rail- road and the flret steamtKtjt invented I7 maa> And cvon on thi? present TOrage of mine I haro fallon in with the first steamboat, Htill afloat, that tbfrty-fire years ago, lighted her fires on the Pacific Ocean. These, Citizehs of Sitka, are the goarantees, not only t'l^t Alaska hna a future, but that t|\^t fitnre has alre dH y be y in. I know ^)at you want two things just now, wbCn ■nroMftn monopoly is brolien down and^ United Staljs free trade^i^ ' Introdieed within the territqr]^^ Thens afO, wUjM^pnia^MeiilM. _ ,afl»tKr to ^ Mutbrfdr to tliat m th«< indiaas a^Ao yOa, atid yon neea alao a *' territorial eitll gOTernment Congress has already supplied we first of those wantt ftdeqaately and eflTeetually. I doubt not tliat it will supply the other waa$ daring the coming winter. It most do this becauso cur political system TCjtili alike anarohr %ni Kzeeative absolatiRni. Nor do I doubt that the {Mif.eal society to be cocstitnted here, first an a Territory, and ultimately ' n a State or nany States, will prore a worthy constituency of the Repablic. To donbt that it will be ioteliigent, Tirtuous, prosperous and enterprising is to doabt the experience of SooUand, Denmark, Sweden, and Holland and Bol- ajinm, and of New England and New York. N^^r do I doubt that it will be lorever tme in ite republican instincts and loval tj) the American Union, far the inhabitants will oe both mountaineers and seafaring men. lamnbt imong those who apprehend infidelity to librirty and the Union in any quar- ter hereafter, bnt I am sure that if constancy and loyalty ai'e to &{1 anywtie^, the fUloro will not be ia the Statee which approach nearest to tli^ North pole. ' Fellow-jOitizens, aocetit once more my thanks, from the heart ot my heart, (br kindnesMe which can noTer be forgotten, and suffer me to leaVe yon with » iboere |uid oariBflsi fisrefirell. ;.'«... ^J'O , * t t;?4i.;^:4 iitttKc St Uv^MlSmA^^nat^', vAi'^^om auto ,■«:' \ ■-. t .'lij; .V alM a 1 ; A -