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MONTREAL: PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY JOHN LOVELL, ST. NICHOLAS STREET. 1860. • «!'• S ! TABLE OF CONTENTS. ., GHAPTEE I. — Geoqbafhioal and Tofoqbaphical I^atitses 07 the Eastebn Townships. GHAPTEE n. — ^Bbief Sketch of the Histobt op the Townships ; the Eaely Settles, and THE Eaembb op the Pbesent Dat. GHAPTEE m.- CHAPTEE rv.- GHAPTEE V.- GHAPTEE VI.- GHAPTEE Vn.- CHAPTEE Vm.- GHAPTEE IX.- GHAPTEE X.- -Gloiate and Soil. -Pbincipal Pish op the Eastesn Townships. -Pbincipal Wild Animals. -BiBDS, Fowl. -POKEST AND FeVIT TbJBES, — ^WlLD AND GULTIVATED. -OeOLC it JkND MiNEEALS. -Pbinoip/ . Towns and Villages. -Descbiption of Plates. ^ PREFACE. TiiE Author of the present work having met with Hbcral patronage from the Canadian Government and people in puUishing his " Ottawa Scenery," has been induced to issue one more work of a eeries he has long contemplated, in illustration of Canadian Scenery. The following work is intended to supply what has long been needed,— a graphic delineation and illustrative account of the beautiful and picturesque scenery of the Eastern Townships. The Author having had a variety of difficulties to contend with, has, at great expense, at last completed his undertaking ; and howe.cr great may have been his trouble, the support of the Government of his country and the patronage of the Canadian public have been encouraging throughout his labours. Works have already appeared illustrative of Canadian Scenery, in some of which are to be found engravings or descriptions of a few of the best-known points of attraction in the Eastern Townships ; but a work exclusively devoted to this section of country, — to the scenery of this locality, — has not been previously pubUshed. Amid the inexhaustible variety of scenery, all equally grand, romantic, or beautiful, and comparatively unknown, there was great difficulty in making the proper selections. Numberless views were omitted, and such selected as were deemed the most suitable for the object in view. In the delineation of the beautiful scenery in this interesting and important portion of Canada, the artist has endeavoured to be truthful in his portraiture, and has made no attempt at exaggeration. The letter-press accompanying the views will, it is hoped, be found useful and interesting to the tourist and the man of business ; and it may induce readers at a distance to visit the Eastern Townships of Canada. W. 8. HTJNTEE, Jun. ^ EASTERN TOWNSHIPS SCENERY. CHAPTER I. OEOORAPHICAIi AND TOPOORAPHICAL FEATURES OP THE EASTERN TOWNSHIPS. •I The author of the accompanying views of Township Scenery, thought it might be acceptable and useful to add a brief sketch of that beautiful tract of country in Lower Canada whence his views are taken. Tiie Eastern Townships, properly so called, lie between the Richelieu and Clmudi^ro Rivers in one direction, and between the frontier-lines of Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire, the Seigniories of the Districts of Montreal, St. Francis, Three Rivers, and part of Quebec, on the other. The six great couiiti«» into which the Eastern Town- ships were formerly divided (Sherbrooko, Stanstcad, ShelTord, Missisquoi, Drummond, and ^roguntic), contain, according to Mr. Bouchettc's computation, 4,880,400 acres of land. A comparatively small portion of the land is altogether unproductive ; for much of that which, in the earlier settlement of the country.was so considered, is now proved, where drainage is applied, to be of the most fertile description. The present population of the Eastern Townships is about 200,000. It is much to be regretted that advantage cannot be taken in this work of the Oovernment returns of the census about to be furnished, the last having been taken in 1851-2. Wo have, however, had access to sufficient data to furnish the above estimate of the present population. The original counties, six in number, already men- tioned, have been divided and new counties fonncd as follows :— Megantic, Arthabaska, and Drummond, (form- ing District of Arthabaska) ; Richmond, Wolfe, Conip- ton, including Towns of Sherbrooko and Stanstcad, (District of St. Francis); Shcflford, Missisquoi, and Drome, (District of Bedford) ; Beauco and Dorchester, (District of Bcauce). As a whole, there is no more beautiful tract of country to bo found on the continent of North America, whether wo regard its sublime and beautiful mountains, its cnchantingly romantic lakes, its picturesque scenery, beautiful rivers, and fertile valleys. The noble River St. Lawrence sweeps post, in its course to the ocean, on the northwest of the Townships. Its banks still retain here that remarkable boldness which they possess at and near the oncient city of Quebec. But as we proceed in a westerly direction, they lose gradually the boldness of their features, till they sink into the flats of La Baio du Febvrc; and from this point the river winds through a richly luxuriant plain to the city of Montreal. The country around the city is both fertile and beautiful. As the traveller recedes from the banks of the St. Law- rence in a southerly direction towards the Townships, the country assumes a peculiarly picturesque aspect. The first remarkable objects that meet the eye are the towering mountain-tops of Belccil, Yamaska, Chambly, Rougemont, Mount Johnson, and Boucherville. Bclaeil Mountain rises abruptly from the eastern sliore of the River Richelieu, and has many objects of interest upon and about it. Upon its summit is a chapel built of wood 8 EASTERN TOWNSHIPS SCENERY. ttiiJ covered with tin ; an object of much interest to the visitor as it is to the surrouniling country, tlie reflection of tlie sun's rays upon its surface being plainly visible from Montreal. There was formerly upon the chapel a lofty cross, — now blown down, and lying at its foot. A carriage-road has been constructed on the side opposite the river by the enterprising Seignior, Major Campbell, leading to the very summit, and passing by one of the most beautiful lakes, — high up in the mountain, — in whose clear waters excellent trout are found in abun- dance. A splendid Hotel has also been constructed by the Seignior not far from tiie Lake, capable of accoifi- modating 200 guests, to which the salubrious air and romantic scenery attract thousands of visitors during the hot months of sunnner. It is very easy of access, there being a station (St. Ililaire) of the Grand Trunk Rail- wayjust at the foot of the mountain. Close to this is the beautiful residence of Major Campbell, famous for the beauty of its architecture and the neatness of its grounds.* Near this point the beautiful River Richelieu is crossed by the Grand Trunk Railway, which passes over the river by means of an iron tubular bridge. This is one of the principal bridges of the road. Vessels navi- gating the Richelieu between Lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence are not, in their passage, obstructed by the bridge, it being so constructed as to allow them to pass without interruption. The Richelieu River, sometimes called Chambly, Sorel, St. Louis, and St. John, affords a quick and easy com- munication from the United States tin Lake Champlain. Its length from the Canada Line, crossing Lake Ciium- plain at its northern extremity, to its confluence with the St. Lawrence, is about 70 miles. The banks of the river are generally from 8 to 12 feet high, diversified on each side by many farms and extensive settlements, in a high state of cultivation. On and near it are neat, popu- lous, and flourishing villages, handsome churches, good roads in all directions, and every characteristic of a highly prosperous country. The Chambly Canal extends from St. Johns to Cham- bly, a distance of about 1 1 J miles, and was made to over- come the interruption in the channel of the Richelieu between the two places. The breadth of the bed of the river at its mouth is 250 yards, which it preserves with • Since writing llie nbovc, wo regret to learn tlmt thia Hotel Laa boon destroyea by fire ; but in all probability lUia atructure will soon be rebuilt. a few exceptions (occasioned by some small and beau- tiful islands) up to Chambly Basin, which is nearly a circular expansion of the river about a mile and a half in diameter, embellished by several little islands covered with fine verdure, and with natural wood artisti- cally grouped. From the Basin of Chambly, the river continues to increase more or lesa in width as far as St. Johns, where there is a ship navigation to the towns on Lake Cham- plain. Passing on from this point still in a south-easterly direction, through the populous and highly flourishing Counties of Sheflbrd and Brome, the country becomes gradually more and more undulating, until it finally assumes a mountainous character towards the shores of Lake Memphremagog and the River St. Francis. The whole of this tract of land is exceedingly fertile and well populated. Everywhere the eye of the traveller is delighted with rich, luxurious fields and valleys, studded with neat homesteads, beautiful cottages, and flourishing villages. The St. Francis River flows through a fine country about 100 miles in length, in which the valuable terri- tories of the ]}ritish American Land Company are situated. It rises in Lake St. Francis, and, having received many tributaries (the Salmon, the Eaton, the the Coaticooke, the Miissawippi,and the Magog), reaches the Town of Sherbrooke, the capital of the Eastern Townships. Thence it winds through a highly pictu- resque country, and fiftally empties into the St. Law- rence at Lake St. Peter. The features of the country through which the St. Francis flows are generally varied and highly interest- ing. No one can have travelled from its mouth, more particularly in the Summer Season, without experienc- ing the most delightful impressions. As we follow the course of the St. Francis, here we see a valley whoso fertility greatly contrasts with the forest wo have left ; there, in the distance a gently swelling hill, whose easy slope we may ascend without perceiving it. At certain points, the level ground is limited to the breadth of the road. On one side, we see hundreds of feet below us ; on the other, we are closed in by a precipice high above our heads. Merging from a defile, we come in full view of the river, hero widened by on island " smiling with verdure." On one side we have a farm-house or a little hamlet, neat and even elegant ; on the other, a cascade, a factory or mill, around EASTEKN TOWNSHIPS SCENEUr, 9 ' which are tasteful dwellings, and frequently n pretty village church. The next river of importance is the Cliaudifcre, which has its source in Lake Mcgantic. It passes through a country of about 100 miles in length by about 30 miles in breadth ; thus in its course clearing about 3000 square miles of laud of its redundant waters. In breadth it varies from 400 to 600 yards ; its course being frequent- ly interrupted by small picturesque islands covered with timber-trees, which add considerably to the beauty of the river. The banks of the Cliaudit^re ore in general high and precipitous, — thickly clothed with verdure. The bed of the river is rugged, and often much contract- ed by rocks jutting out from the banks on either side, which occasion violent rapids. Within about four miles of the mouth of this river there is a remarkable fall. The precipice over which the waters nsh towers up 130 feet, whilst the breadth of the river at this point is J30 yards. As the waters fall over this precipice, they are divided by jutting rocks into three portions, which unite again before reaching the bed of the river. Here, by the violent action of the water, the rocks are deeply excavated. These, giving a circular motion to the great body of water as it dashes onward, present a peculiar and beautiful appearance. The spray, when carried by the winds, in the sunshine produces a splendid variety of prismatic colours ; while the dark foliage on either side, pressing close to the margiti of the river, forms a striking contrast with the snow-like effulgence of the falling torrent. Indeed, for picturesque beauty and sub- limity few falls can be compared with those of the Chauditire. The various tributaries of the St. Lawrence just now partially described; with their various ramifications oft spread out into small and beautiful lakes, which bespangle the country among the highlands, give, in association with mountain-peaks, great picturesqueness to the sce- nery. Each branch of the Nicolet is supplied with its lake among the mountains: — The Bt^caucuur displays a very beautiful chain of lakes in the Townships of Inver- ness, Halifax, and Ireland ; while others on the north- west line of Wolfe's Town appear at the sources of the streams. Throughout this vast tract of country there can be found numbers of streams affording water-power which might be turned to profitable account with no great outlay of capital. The Townships are free from the burdens of the Seigniorial tenure, and Mills and Fac- tories are found in all the settled parts of the country. There can bo no doubt that they are destined to become the Scat of Manufactures. Lake Memphremagog is about 30 miles long, by a breadth of generally about 3 miles, but in some parts of the Lake three or more. It lies in a semi-circular form, partly among the mountains, and partly in the valley beyond, which ^obliquely crosses the northern portion ; stretching its southern extremity into the State of Ver- mont, about one third of the Lake belonging to the United States. The bright bosom of this Lake is everywhere bestud- dcd with romantic Islands, generally covered with woods to the water's edge. The aspect of some of the Jlountains from this lake is truly sublime. They seem to rise almost perpendicularly from the waters ; while here and there huge rocks, jutting out from tli(!ir sides, frown threateningly down on the spectator. Among these mountains, the Owl's Head in point of beauty stands pre-eminent. In the Summer season this Lake is much frequented by tourists and lovers of natural beauty. In- deed, it may be said with truth that this lake is fast becoming, during the summer season, one of the most fashionable places of resort. The number of visitors is constantly increasing. This Lake empties itself into the beautiful River St. Francis at Sherbrooke, by means of the River Magog. The water-power of the Magog is very great, and must prove highly advantageous to the development of Manu- factures at Sherbrooke, and to the village of Magog, the latter situated at the Outlet of Lake Memphremagog. Lake Megantic, the source of the Chaudidre, lies about 40 miles in an easterly direction from Sherbrooke, near the boundary-line between Maine and Canada. This Lake has a length of about 16 miles, and is in breadth about 2. The country about the lake is not as yet much settled ; a few beaver finding it sufficiently remote from the haunts of civilization to inhabit some of its tiibutaries. The St.FrancisIudiausfrequent this section, as it affords them good hunting-grounds, and the waters of the lake abound in fish. This region being susceptible of great agricultural development, it must soon become settled. The Mountains in the vicinity of Lake Megan- tic have a considerable altitude, but the general aspect is not so picturesque as that of the country which lies nearer the shores of Lake Memphremagog. Lake St. Francis, whence rises the river of the same name, is situated about 40 miles N. E. from Sherbrooke, and is a beautiful lake. In its length it somewhat 10 eastehn townships sceneey. exceeds Lake Megniitic, but is not bo wide. Tiie Towu- sliips ofWiiislow, Lambtoii, Adstock, and Price, border its sliores, ll miles long. The principal part of the lumber sawn at the extensive Hills at Brompton Falls, owned by C. S. Clark & Co., is obtained from the forests about lliis Lake. Lake Aylmer, through which pass the waters of Lake St. Francis on their course down the river St. Francis, is a very pretty body of water, much less in size than the St. Francis. It divides the Townslii|>s of Garthby and Stratford. Great quantitiesof valuable lumber are found throughout the whole of this region. Lake Tomifobi or JIassawippi lies in the Township of Ilatley ; length about 9 miles, average width IJ miles. The scenery about this lake is quite equal to any in this section. In this Lake is found a greater variety of fish than in any lake in the Eastern Townships. Brome Lake, in the Township of Brome, is a beautiful sheet of water of circular form. Its greatest diameter is about 5 miles. The scenery about the Lake is also very beautiful. Black Bass are taken from its waters in abundance, and it is much visited by sportsmen. There are many smaller and interesting Lakes worthy of notice. Among them may be mentioned Lake William, in the Township of Halifax ; Brompton Lake, in the Townships of Brompton, Orford, and Stukely. Most of the Lakes in the Townships abound in fish. Colonel Bouchctte, the Surveyor General of Lower Canada, is of the opinion that the range of hills travers- ing Bolton, Orford, «S:c., are a continuation of the Green Mountains, which form a conspicuous ridge running through the State of Vermont. Sir William Logan, the Provincial Geologist, says that " Between Montreal and course, and presents a flat surface on each bank of the Quebec, the valley of the St. Lawrence has a general NE. river. This plain extends from 12 to 20 miles in breadth on the N. W. side of the river, to the flank of a wide- spread, Lilly but not very elevated country. On the S.E. side of the river the plains arc 30 to 40 miles wide, and, with the intervention of a few moderate undulations, reach the foot of a range called the Green Mountains of Vermont, which, after entering Canada, decline in height, but a few isolated peaks are 4000 feet above the sea. A continuous mountain-belt bounds the S. F. side, present- ing a gently undulating surfitce. These ranges of moun- tain and valley arc parallel to one another, and to the St. Lawrence." Orford Jlountain, the highest in the Townships, situ- ated near the northern extremity of Lake Memphremagog, has an elevation of about 4,'')00. feet above the St. Law- rence. From its summit may be seen in one panoramic view eighteen lakes, all emptying themselves into the Yamnska and the Kichelicu on the one hand, and the St. Francis on the other. Owl's Head is estimated to bo 2500 feet above the level of Lake Memphremagog, and is situated on the western shore, about the centre of the Lake. There are the Megantic Mountains, and many others of less altitude are scattered throughout the Eastern Townships. Dr. Thomas llolfe, who has laboured streimously on behalf of Canada, remarks that "From 100 miles below Quebec to 100 miles above Montreal, on both sides of the St. Lawrence, there is a most beautiful country, not only cleared, cultivated, and thickly settled, but actually adorned with a continuous line of villages on either bank. There is not a point from which the spire of a spacious and elegant parish Church does not greet the eye, and frequently there are many to be seen in the same view. The Eastern portion of Canada, and probably the East- ern Townships, contain the greatest variety of beautifid scenery, — mountain, rock, hill, dale, plain, forest, water- fall, lake, and river." The natural features of the Eastern Townships are romimtic and sublime ; and no one can look upon them without expressing his admiration. Every Township whicii is settled has its village, — some possess more ; each distinguished from the other by its particular kind of beauty ; the one liaving a charming landscape which cheers the eye, in another the buildings arc of a varied style, while others arc striking for their situation at the base of a mountain or on the borders of a lake. As we approach the frontier lines, the evidences of prosperity increase, as it was there that the first set- tlements were made. The Eastern Townships, as a whole, unfold scenery, the magnificence of which, in combination with the most delightful physical beauty, is unequalled in America, and perhaps iu the world. ! EASTERN TOAVNSIIIPS SCENERY. 11 CIIAPTEU II. BRIEF SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF THE TOWNSniPS ; THE EARLY SETTLER, AND TIIK FARMER OF TIIK PRESENT DAY. The first settlements were made about the year 1795, in the Townsliip of Stanstcad, which was surveyed as early as 1702-3 by Messrs. Pennoyer and KUboru, and in the year 1709 about 30 families moved in, emigrating from Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Vermont. Jliicli is due to those enterprising and adventurous pio- neers, who left their homes of comfort and comparative luxury, to suH'er every privation incident to a wild, un- settled country. A large portion of Vermont and New Hampshire was then unsettled. There were vast tracts of forests to be traversed, wliicli lay between tiic homes of the emigrants and their destination, far off in the wilds of Canada, for their guide following the course of streams and marked trees. It often required months to accomplish their toilsome journey. Great as has been tlie prosperity of the Eastern Townships, and of the Settlements which everywhere indicate the beautiful country partially described, the people of the Townships must remember that nature has not been wooed without severe trials ; neither have her treasures been won with- out an eflbrt worthy of their worth. Those who may have had an opportunity of seeing the early clearings in the country, must have been impressed with the utter loneliness and desolate appearance of the lirst settler's log-cabin. In the midst of a dense forest, and with a "patch of clearing" scarcely large enough to let the sun's cheering rays shine upon him, he looks tlie very personification of one struggling for existence. For weeks and months, he sees no one but the members of his own family. The boundless, still, and wild forest ever presents itself to his view. " Tall pines, blackened by fire, stand as monuments of the prevailing loneliness," whilst the forest closes around him like the walls of a fortress, and his only hope against its shutting him in for life, is his axe. A little corn and potatoes, springing up here and there among the stumps, are almost choked by the luxuriant growth of underwood, and seem to say to the settler " liow can poverty ever expect'to escape from such a prison-house ? " Happily there is no scene in life, however cheerless and desolate, that poetry may not gild and brighten the hopes of some, where all the world might despair. The small patch he has cleared, which to others would be but a poor guarantee for a bare subsistence, was nevertheless a source of " bright and hiippy dreams " to the lonely pioneer. To him it was the foundation of great hopes and future indepen- dence, " and the very dream, or poetry, or what you will, cheered him at his hard and lonely toil, and made him contented with his rude fireside." The slight evidences of prosperity in his little clearing, which may have been regarded as affording a small amount of the comforts of life, to him were associated with broad acres and well- filled barns, and the very thought stimulated him to double exertion and he was content. Ills little, lonely cabin in which his timid children hid themselves, — for they very seldom saw a stranger, — was associated by liim, not with the idea of the hardships and privations wo would naturally attach to it, but something more noble, that it should be, if life were spared him, by the blessings of God, the spot where he would gain the respectability of those children. This has been the history of thou- sands of others in the Eastern Townships, who have become independent and even wealthy, against similar dilliculties. Such w'as an early settler of the Eastern Townships ; such were his hardships, his fortitude, and his success. The memory of those hardy sons of toil who first settled this beautiful country should be dear to their descendants, and their names should be handed down to their latest posterity as the fathers of an enlightened and liberty-loving people. They have nearly all passed away ; and the few that renuiin seem to derive a melancholy pleasure in relating ineiilenls which took place in the early history of these Townships, and narrating their own adventures, " 111 life's early nimcli, Wliuu the spirit was young." There arc yet unimproved portions in the Eastern Townships having all the natural advantages which the 18 EASTEBN TOWNSHIPS SCENEnY. early settlements possessed (with the advantage of the improvements of the present day, such as schools, roads, markets, and railway facilities). Let the present gene- ration improve every opportunity of benefitting their country ; and our descendants, loving it as we do, will bless our memory, and will consider themselves bound by gratitude to preserve their country, their institutions, customs, manners, and character ; and the Canadian spirit will have gained a new element of vitality. There is not s country in the world whose inhabitants live better, nor is there elsewhere a class who enjoy a greater abundance of the comforts of life than the farmers of the Eastern Townships. To persons not practically acquainted with this section of country, the evidences, not only of comfort but of refinement also, will no doubt appear extraordinary. When it is remem- bered that the Eastern Townships have only been settled some 60 years, it could hardly be expected they would produce such results. Wealth in agriculture, like wealth in every other occupation, is usually the oiTspring of skill and judgment, industry and perseverance. The Eastern Townships, bordering as they do the States of Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, have a large proportion of their population of American origin. As a natural result of this, there is scarcely an improvement efl!ected in American farming, which does not find its way into the Townships ; and any implements of Agriculture which can bo used to advantage, are either copied or imported. Agricultural Societies have sprung up, and have been attended with great advantages to the East- em Townships. Particular pains have been taken to import the best breeds of cattle. This fact, in connection with the superior quality of grass which grows on the uplands, gives the Eastern Townships cattle a decided preference over others. There is not a village that has not horses which exhibit all the fine peculiari- ties of the best breeds of England, the United States, and Canada. Horses from this section find ready sale in the principal markets of the United States. It will be seen by the official reports of Exports from the Eastern Townships for the year 1858, that cattle, horses, and sheep were exported as follows. An allowance of 26 per cent, may be safely added for those taken out without reporting at the difierent offices along the frontier between Vermont and the Eastern Townships. Honei, No 1030 Value... $103,181 Horned Cattle. 63S4 142,UT Sheep, 253B0 64,028 ToUl No. 31,734. Value, |288,366. It must be remembered, however, that the crisis of 1857-58 would have its influence on sales and prices. In addition to the above, products from the Townships were exported the same year amounting to about $630,000. The Eastern Townships being essentially an agricul- tural country, the consequence is that the energies of their people have been chiefly directed to Agriculture. It is true that they have valuable water-powers, which would give them great facilities for manufactures, but it is only recently that public attention has been directed to them. They are rich in valuable mineral resources, but until quite lately capital has not been employed to render them available. In fact, whatever prosperity the Eastern Townships pco[)le enjoy, they owe it to the soil, and to the use they have made of it. The statistics which mark their annual productions are evidence of their prosperity ; and if the reader has a fancy for rich harvest-fields, farm-yards teeming with plenty, and beau- tiful animals, he can gratify it by taking a trip into the Eastern Townships. Although the Townships, from the want of proper arrangements being made to represent their advantages to the emigrant, have not kept pace in increase of emigration with some portions of Upper Canada, yet some of her counties have recently made great progress. In the seven years preceding 1851, the fine County of Megantic, through which the Quebec and Richmond (Qrand Trunk) Railway, passes, increased 116 per cent, the County of Drummond 78, and the County of Sherbrooke 50. Notwithstanding that the Townships have been looked upon as less desirable for settlement than Upper Canada, they have quietly and steadily in- creased in this respect ; for it is a well-known fact, that a country depending upon any one product as its staple is agriculturally bankrupt when that crop fails ; but the soil of the Townships is so variable in its nature, so well adapted to the production of all kinds of ordinary crops, that no great injury results from the temporary failure of a particular one. The Government Emigrant Agent, in his Report for 1858, says: '• For the year past there has been quite a large emigration of Qermans and Norwegians, who have settled in the Eastern Townships. They all belong to the working classes, and, though possessing small resources, yet as they are industrious, economical, and enterprising, they cannot fail of securing an indepen- dence. At the close of the season I paid a visit to the locality selected by the Norwegians for settlement. ! EASTEKN TOWNSHIPS SCENEBT. 13 where I remained ten days to obtain information about the country and the condition of the settlers. During my stay, I called together an assembly of the Norwe- gians, in order to learn more fully from them their in- tentions for the future, and I was glad to learn that they were all pleased with their position, and all manifested a desire that some means might be taken by which their countrymen should be induced to emigrate to so desirable a country." There is no doubt that the present unsettled state of political afiairs in Europe will induce many of its inhabitants to leave their country to seek new homes where peace and prosperity reign. The Brit- ish American Land Company, holding lands through- out this section, will afford every facility to the settler. Its terms for lands are very favorable, and cannot fail to suit the circumstances of the poor emigrant. The British American Land Company's Office is at Sherbrooke, where all the necessary information can be obtained. The Crown and the Clergy Lands in the Eastern Town- ships are offered to actual settlers at merely nominal rates, and embrace some fine districts of wild lands, well timbered, &e., &e. u EASTEEN TOWNSHIPS SCENEEY. CHAPTER III. CLIMATE AND SOIL. f The influence of climate upon the soil and the country, and also upon its inhabitants, renders it important that enquiries should be made in this respect. It is now a generally admitted fact that the climate of Canada has undergone a considerable change, partly owing to the motion of the magnetic poles and to the forest clearing necessary for the cultivation of the country. From the time they were first settled, this fact has been particularly noticed by the inhabitants of the Townships. The effect is mainly observable in the lengthened dura- tion of summer and in the consequent shortening of winter. As the Eastern Townships become more cleared and its swamps drained, its climate will become milder. The heat of the summer is now less relaxing and the cold of win- ter more bracing than the temperature of the same sea- sons in New York, or, indeed, in any part of the United States. The winter in the Eastern Townships is cer- tainly not, on the v.hcle, unfavorable. The effect of snow covering the earth for a long period is well known to be beneficial ; and the fall of deep snow in a country where frost prevails for so long a time, is one instance among the many of the merciful dispensations of Provi- dence. Had it been otherwise, the continued action of cold on the earth would have so deprived it of its natural caloric, that the heat of even the hottest summer would not have been sufficient to restore the warmth necessary to the germii.ation of plants and the ascension of sap in vegetables. The natural heat of the earth is about 42° Fah., but woter when cooled down to 32" Fah. is con- verted into snow and ice. By this means the rivers and the land, with their myriads of fish and insects, are pro- tected by a dense crust of ice, which, being a non-con- ductor, pre8er\'e8 them from the influence of the immense volume of cold otmosphere which is continually pressing from the polar regions towards the equator. Thus, that very coating of snow which seems so chilling, is in fact a warm garment for the earth ; and when the sun returns to melt it, and the north winds are driven back to their icy regions, the latent caloric of the earth begins to be developed and the snow melts, and percolates with rapidity the stiffest soils, rendering them peculiarly fria- ble and adapted to the immediate labors of the husband- man. It is a singular fact, that, some weeks before the termination of a Canadian winter, vegetation is in active process, even on the surface of the earth, beneath a covering of snow several feet thick. The salubrity of the Townships is sufficiently proved by its clear skies, elastic air, and almost entire absence of fogs. The atmosphere is exhilirating. The steady frosts of winter and the heat of its summers, hasten vegetation with great rapidity. The transition from winter to summer is so sudden, that it has been made a subject of remark by all Europeans who visit the country. The crops spring up almost instantaneously, and reconcile our inhabitants to the loss of that whicii is often the sweetest season of the year. But if the Spring be short, they can boast of an Autumn beautifully mild, and lingering on with its Indian Summer and golden sunsets until the month of December. The Canadian Winter is hailed as a season of increased enjoyment, rather than one of priva- tion and discomfort, by the people. Instead of alternate rain, snow, sleet, and fog, with broken-up roads, the Canadian can boast of clear skies and a bracing atmo- sphere, and of the inequalities in new roads through the country made smooth by snow, "the whole of the country being literally macadamized by nature." It is at this season that the timber is cleared from the land, and the farmer disposes of his produce and supplies himself for the future, and markets are accessible by means of good winter roads. Few who have enjoyed the merry winters in this country, the noble hospi* talicy and the pleasant society, the sleigh-rides and the parties, can easily forget the many attractions of an Eastern Townships winter. Of the general salubrity of the Province of Canada, its vital statistics, as com- pared with those of other countries, afford satisfactory evidence ; and the following table may not be devoid of interest, showing the proportion of yearly deaths f EASTERN TOWNSHIPS SCENERY. 15 to tlu! population in various countries, — furnisheil by Prof. Guy : Austria 1 in 40 Belgium 1 " 43 DtMiniark 1 " 4S England 1 " 40 Franco 1 " 42 Norway and Sweden 1 " 41 Portugal 1 •' 40 Prussia 1 " 39 Russia (in Europe) 1 " 44 Spain 1 <« 40 Switzerland 1 " 40 Turkey 1 " 30 United States 1 " 74 All Canada 1 " 98 The Eastern Townships are generally regarded as the most healthy portion of Canada. The soil of the Eastern Townships, with some excep- tions, is generally a gravelly loam, seldom deficient in calcareous quality, and often very ferruginous. The Society for the Encouragement of Arts, &c., assert, in the preface to Vol. XXI., that they have ascertained by actual experiments that Canada can furnish licmp equal in quality, for the uses of the navy, to that from the Baltic. Ilemp is one of the most valuable and profitable produc- tions of the earth ; it enriches the cultivator, and furnishes the shipping with the most useful and important part of its equipment. The several processes of hemp, also, benefit the country by employing many hands, tliat could not be so usefully and profitably engaged in other occupa- tions. The advantage therefore which must be derived from the culture and maimfacture of hemp, throughout its several branches, cannot be doubted, and is sufficiently proved by the importance which Russia has derived from her commerce in that article, by which she has, in n manner, rendered the greatest navy in the world depen- dent upon her will and caprice. The importation of hemp from Russia has amounted to no less than 30,000 tons, for the general consumption of Great Britain and for the use of the Royal navy. It must therefore in every point of view bo a groat object to Britain to draw her supplies of hemp from her own Colonies. Hemp has been grown successfully in some portions where it has been cultivated in the Eastern Townships ; and there can bo no doubt that the soil and climate of this section of Canada would be favorable to the general culture of this article. We hope that the farmers of the Town- ships will give to this subject, of so much importance, tlio attention it deserves. 16 EASTEUN TOWNSHIPS SCENliKT. n 1 ! If CIIAPTER IV. I'RI.VCIl'AL KI8H OP THE EASTKRN TOWNSniPS. The principal fish which inhabits the larger lakes of the Eastern Townships ia the Namaycusu or Lonoe ; Salmo Namaycush, Pennant. Description. — Form resembling the salmon; head flattened and slightly convex between the eyes, greatest depth contained about five times in the total length. Colour dark bluish-brown above, approaching to black on the head, sides thickly spotted witii roundish yellow- ish-gray spots on a dark browniah-gray ground, the spots unequal but usually about the size of a small pea ; belly, yellowish white ; fins, dark-brown, mottled witli yellowish white ; the pectorals, ventrals, and anal slight- ly tinged with orango yellow. Lateral line, plain prominent and nearly straight. Scales small and thin, but much larger than on the brook-trout. Eyes midway between t'ae tip of the snout and the nape, and twice as near the former ai to the hind edge of the gill-cover, the measurement being made from the centre of the pupil ; iris yellowish. Nootrils nearer the eye than the tip of the snout, double-, oriiicoo nearly equal, the anterior having a raised margin. Jaws equal, strong, and armed with incurved, sharp, conical teeth, similar teeth on the front part of the vomer, on the palate bonea, and two rowa on the tongue, with a deep groove between them. Prcojwrculum but little curved, and nearly vertical. Su- hopcrculim large and finely grooved. The dorsal Jin me- dial, higher than long, and the ventral aituated nearly under the middle of it ; adipose fin club-shnpcd and nearly over the posterior ray of the anal; the anal higher than long, the anterior part being three times the height of the posterior ; tail forked with pointed lobes. This fish is taken from Lake Mcmphremagog weighing from 4 to 25 pounds. They have been taken weighing 40 pounds, but fish of this size are at present rarely caught. History. — ^Thia species of Trout bears considerable resemblance to the Salmo Trulia, or Salmon Trout, of Europe, and, having been mistaken for that fish by the first European settlers of this country, it has since usually borne the name of Salmon Trout. In the Eastern Town- ships of Canada, it is at present extensively known by the name of Longe. In Pennant's Arctic Zoology, and by the fur-traders at the North-Wcst, its more common appellation is Namaycush or Namaycush Salmon. It ia called by Dr. Mitchell the Great Lake Trout, and ho describes it under the scientific name of Salmo amcthystus. This magnificent trout equals or surpasses the common salmon in size, and is found in most of the lakes and largo ponds in the northern parts of North America. In the great lakes in the North- West it is often taken weighing from 30 to 60 pounds, and, according to Dr. Mitchell, it has been taken at Michilimacinac of the enormous weight of 120 pounds. This fish passes most of the time in the deepest parts of the lakes and ponds, but, according to Dr. Richardson, resorts in October to the shallows to spawn. It is a very voracious fish, and is sometimes termed the tyrant of the lakes. It is taken with the hook and line, and is also speared by torch-light. Its flesh is of a reddish-yellow color, and is very much esteemed us an article of food. Roasting is said to be the best method of cooking it. *' The Canadian voyageurs are fond of eat- ing it raw, io a frozen state, after scorching it for a second or two over a quick fire, until the scales can bo easily detached, but not continuing the application of heat long enough to thaw the interior." This beautiful and valuable fish, which was formerly taken in great abundance from Lake Mcmphremagog, of late years has considerably decreased in numbers, from the wanton destruction indulged in by thoughtless indi- viduals in the spawning-season. Uidess something is done to enforce the law in this respect, the Longe in the Lakes of the Eastern Townships will soon become ex- tinct. Tons of this fish are taken nightly, by spearing and seining, upon the spawning-grounds of Lake Mcm- phremagog. The Brook Trout ; Salmo fonlinalis, Mitchell. Description. Color above brown, with darkish markings, fading into white or yellowish-white on the belly ; sides KA8TBEN TOWNSHIPS SCENEEY. 17 < witit uuniurouM rountliHli yellow spots of uiiei(ual sizu, but usually about tliu sizo of a siiiull pea; and also very small bright rod spots, commonly situated witliiu the yellow oucs. Tlicso red spots are extremely variable, being very few ii some specimens and numerous in others. The caudal end first dorsal fin transversely banded or mottled with black. Head one seventh the total length, darker colored than the back. Eyes large, iris silvery. Teeth hook inward, on the jaws, tongue, palatine bones and vomer ; those on the tongue largest. Jaws equal. Scales very minute. Lateral lino straight. First dorsal fin on the anterior half of the body ; adipose fin small, brownish-yellow margined witii black, and behind the anal ; pectorals under the posterior part of the opercu- lum ; ventrals under the middle of the first dorsal ; first ray of the unal, ventral, and pectoral fins white ; the second or third ray usually black, the rest of the fin reddish. Tail slighty forked. History. — The Brook Trout is more generally diffused over the Townships than any other species of fish, there being scarcely a brook, or rill of clear water, descending from our hills and mountains, in which it is not found. When the country was new, they also abounded in the larger streams, where they often grew to the weight of two or three pounds. But they have been diminished by the causes already mentioned ; and they have been sought after with such eagerness as the most delicious article of food of the fish kind, that they are now seldom taken in our streams exceeding half a pound in weight, and much the greater number of them weigh less than a quarter of a pound. In many of the ponds, they are still taken of a larger size, but their flavor is thought to be less deli- cious that that of those taken in running water. The trout is usually taken with the hook, and the bait universally used is the red earth-worm, everywhere known by the name of the angle-worm. Fishing for trout is a favorite and common amusement, and parties frequently go fifteen or twenty miles for the sake of indulging in it. The Black Bass; Cvntrarchus fasciutus, Lo Sueur. Form somewhat elliptical, compressed, a little convex on the sides, and pointed forwards. Color dark-greenish above, lighter and faintly mottled on the sides, and grayish-white beneath. History. — The Black Bass ranks as one of the best fishes taken from our waters ; but, as is apt to be the case with good fishes, it is much less abundant than several other species which are greatly its inffiior in point of quality. Its weight varies from one to five or six pounds. It is usually caught with the seine ; but is otten taken with the hook and lino, as well as with the fly. TiiK CosiMON Pike ; Esojc eitor, Le Sueur. — Detcrip- tion. Body thick, somewhat four-sided; back neorly straight from the head to the dorsal fin, and parallel to the abdomen. Color of the back, blackish green ; sides lighter ; belly pearly white. This fish, like other of its species, has a head one fourth the total length, and is commonly known as the Pickerel. White Fish, or Lake Shad ; Coregoriiu albut, La Sueur. — Description. Form ovate, slighty tapering to- ward the tail ; body deep and thick ; head pointed, and, with the mouth, very small. Average weight about four pounds. Color silvery, bluish-gray on the back, lighter on the sides, and pearly-white on the belly. This is a most excellent fish, and nearly all are disposed to acquiesce in this opinion. It is taken in considerable numbers in Lake Massawippi, and in other lakes of the Eastern Townships. Lake Massawippi is remarkable for the variety of fish found in its waters. Besides the Longe or Black Salmon peculiar to this lake, there are taken of the principal fish of Canada — the Maskinong^ (Esox nohilior, Thompson^, Rock Bass, Black Bass, the Sucker, Mullet, Common Pike, Pickerel, Trout, the Eel, and others of less conse- quence. The great variety found in this lake may be accounted for by its being so easy of access for fish through it outlet, the River Massawippi, which connects the lake with the River St. Francis at Lennoxville. There are many other kinds of fish in the Rivers and Lakes, which it is not necessary here to notice. For Trout fishing, the Rapids of the River Magog afford the best sport for the disciples of Izaac Walton. The trout of this river arc particularly fine, and are caught weigh- ing from one to six pounds. Fishermen who are au fait in the science frequent this ground from Magog to Sher- brooke. Richard Nettle, Esq., in his interesting work on the " Salmon Fisheries of the St. Lawrence," says : — " A little practice is worth a volume of theory, and that particu- larly in fly-fishing. Bait-fishing, though requiring a little judgment, is more accidental in its results. I have been beaten by a lady fishing from the same boat. The fish appeared to prefer being taken by her hook, and very icyf came to my share. The fly-fisher is evtr called on to bring into practice those reasoning faculties which we must suppose the fisher to possess. He must know that the soft, warm breezes of June bring into existence the 18 EASTERN T0WN8UIP8 8CENEEY. iiinunu'ritbliM'iilu'nu'ra tribe; iiiul fhatmort' piirticulnrly tlio I'voiiiiig bIiowm tliiMi) Hkippiiiff niiil ilaiiciiig liglitly o'er river, lal^e, ami stream, lie will then ' See Iho trout, In siipikled |iriili', Sportlro to tbo buaotu iprlng;' consequently, tlio best thing ho can do is to see what Hort of a lly, or flies, the lish arc rising at and choose Troni his ily-book those that nioro nearly approach in color and size the miluial jhj, and by his skill try to imi- tate their hovering motion. A quick eye, and a peculiar turn of the wrist, is essential to make a good lly-fisher ; for though sometimes the fish may hook themselves, still it is only by chance that such un occurrence happens. It is scarcely necessary to say that for trout-fishing your apparatus must be finer than for salmon. In the selec- tion of a rod, I would advise you in all cases, unless you are experienced in the matter, to let an old fisherman choose one for you. I know nothing that is more tedious than to have a badly bidanced rod ; ond therefore let your chief care be to gtinrd against such an error, or you will find perchance that you have made toil of what would have been pleasure. With a nicely balanced rod, you may fish all day and not feel the least fatigued. A rod of from 12 to 14 feet is sulliciently long for trout-fishing. The butt should be hollow to contain one or more spare tops. I prefer the spliced rods as giving a greater pliancy; but they require more care, and a young fisherman had better choose a forruled one. The liuo should be silk and hair, dark colored ond about 30 to 40 yards in length , and after fishing, care should bo taken always to dry it, as if reeled up when wet it will soon rot. I generoUy rnb my lino down with a little sweet oil ond aftorworda with dry piece of llanncl ; it throws off the water when fishing ond prevents the lino from kinking. The reel should be o multiplier without tho stop; the check of which has lost many fine fish. TiiouT Flies. " I hero give o selection of a few that I have ever found to be good killing ones. As I have remarked in ouother place, I copy nature as nearly as I can, ond it is what I am particularly fond of. I could sit all doy and make files. I catch the natural fly, and with my magnifying glass view the difl'erent colors, and as nearly as possible copy them. I om of opinion, that the water acts as a magnifier on the vision of the fish ; else why do tho sal- mon and the large-sized trout rise at the small midge-fly? I may bo wrong, but such is my opinion. This fly is scarcely larger than a pin's head, and yet wo find tho fish rise eagerly ot them. It cannot be from any nou- rishment they receive ; but oven hero comes diversity of opinion." We take much pleosure in advancing Mr. Nettle's ideas on trout-fishing, as we ore particularly fond of this sport, ond from observation we think that they are applicable to tho trout-fishing of tho Townships. r EiVSTERN TOWNSHIPS SCENERY. 10 CHAPTER V. t'RINCIPAL. WILD ANIMALS. , TiiK Wild Aniiimls of tho Eastern Townships nro gra- duully retrcuting to other parts. Formerly tiiis wiiolo country wus a, vast iiiinting-ground. Tiio principal wild animals now found iu this suction of Canada aro as follows : — OltDER RUMINANTIA. — Ruminating Animals. Moose. Cerviu alcei, Linnrcus. Description. — Hood long, narrow between the eyes, and largo toward tho mouth, which has some analogy to that of tho horso ; upper lip exceedingly developed and very thick ; nostrils, a lateral slit, more open anteriorly than behind ; eyes small, near tho base of tho horns ; lachrymal pits small ; neck short ; eors very large and thick ; horns, consisting of a very largo flattened expan- sion, furnished with numerous prongs on the external border, with a largo isolated branch of tho principal stock ; tail excessively short. A tuft of long hair-like beard, beneath the throat, in both sexes ; and a protu- berance in the samo place in the male. Legs long ; feet long, and placed obliquely in tho soil. Hair coarso and friable. Generol color fawn-brown. Dimensions, as given by Doctor Harlan : length from the nose to the base of the tail, 6 feet 10 inches ; height before 5 feet 2} inches, behind 5 feet 4 inches ; length of the head, 23 inches ; cars, 10 inches ; horns, 37 inches ; neck, 18 inches ; tail, 2 inches ; weight of tho horns sometimes 60 lbs. and sometimes over. Hutory. — ^Moose were formerly plentiful in tho East- ern Townships. In many places the early settlers de- pended upon their flesh for no inconsiderable part of the flubsistenco of their families. They are now rarer to bo found except in the eastern portion bordering upon tho State of Maine. The principal grounds for moose-hunting at present are in the regions of country round about Lake Megantic, and numbers are killed there every winter. Indi- viduals of this class have been taken the head and horns weighing over 100 lbs., and thehidoi and quarters when dressed, weighing over 800 lbs. Ilcii^lit of horns exceed- ing 3 feet and the diHtunce between their tips more than H feet; larger than this are not often found at the present day. But from stutenicnts made by some of tiie early settlers, we conclude that larger moose were taken when the country was comparatively new. The food of tin Mooso consists of grass, shrubs, the boughs and bark of trees, especially the beech, which they seem to prefer above all others, and a species of maple, Acer Vcmimjlva- nicum, which is called moose-wood. In summer they keep pretty nmch in families ; in winter they herd together, sometimes to tho number of 20 or 30 in a family. They seem to prefer cold places ; and when the snow is deep, they tread it down for a space of several acres, forming what is called tho " yard." Within this space they range, and subsist upon the twigs and bark of tho trees, whilo tho snow remains deep upon tho ground. In order to eat from tho ground, they are obliged to kneel or spread their fore-legs, on account of the shortness of their neck. They move with a long shambling trot, and with a rat- tling of their hoofs, which may bo heard at a consider- able distance. Their course is swift and straigiit ; they leap over thd highest fences with ease. The males only have horns, which aro shed and reproduced annually. The rutting season is in September, and tho young are produced about the first of June, usually two at a birth. The female is smaller than the male. This animal was called Monsall by tho Indians, Orlgnal hy the French inhabitants of Canada, and Moose or Moose-dccr by the English. The taking of Mooso is sometimes extremely hazardous. The most favorable time for hunting them is towards spring, when tho snow is deep, and when the warmth of mid-day melts the surface, and the cold nights freeze a crust, which greatly embarrasses the mooso and the deer in their flight. The following narrative of a moose-hunt will be inte- resting, particularly to those who sometimes indulge in this sport in the Eastern Townships : — 20 £ABTEB5 TOWNSHIPS SCGNIilir. " An the snow WM deep, nnd cniittotl Miifnricntly liani to bear us upon itiiow-ihooi, wliilu tlio iiioosu bruko through at cvury Ifnp. wo wero «oon Hutltcicntly iionr tlii'in to allow a gixNl oliot. Ono of tlio iiutn iipproncluMl witliin a t'tiw yards of thu liiiidoriiioxt, and firod. T\w ball took el1i>ct, but did not Htop liitn. Still puriuiing, uuotliur ball was lodged in his body, when he turiu'd at bay. It wnn now our turn to retreat ; but after making a few bounds towards us, ho turned and fled again, when wo again came up to tho charge. I took the gun this time and approached within fifteen foot of him, and fired. lie dropped instantly upon the snow. Supi>0Hiug him dead* we left the spot and pursued the other with all possible despatch, for there was not a moment to lose, as tho fugi- tive, alarmed by the report of tho gun, was redoubling his exertions to eflfect his escape. Tho dog, however, soon came upon him and retarded his flight. Emboldened in his successful encounter with tho other, tho dog dashed incautiously upon him.but nearly paid the forf(>it of hislife. The moose gave him a tremendous blow with his sharp hoofs, which mado him cry out till tho woods echoud with his piteous howl. In vain did we try to induce hioi to renew the encounter : his passion for the chase seemed effectually cooled. As tho day wos now quite spent, we returned to dress the one we had shot, but were asto- nished, on arriving at the place where we left him, to find that he had made his escape. Tracking him by a trail of blood which appeared to have spirted out at every leap he madc,we soon came up with him, and fired again. The ball hit, but only to enrage him tho more. Five addi- tional bullets were lodged in his perforated body, now making in all nine. Having but one sho{ more, we de- sired to make it count effectively, so, taking the gun, I approached very near npon one side and fired at his head. The ball passed directly into one eye and out at the other, thus rendering him completely blind. The last shot caused him to plunge and jump tremendously. He now became furious, and, guided by the sound of our footsteps, ^ould dart at us like a catamount whenever we approached him- We had no axe to strike him down, or to cut clubs with which to despatch him. Wo were at a stand what to do. Wc tried first to entangle him in the deep snow by ap- proaching him, and thus ind< t> him to spring out of the beaten track into the untrodden snow ; but the moment he found himself out, he would back directly into the beaten path again. Our feelings became very uncomfort- able, and now, from pity, we desired to put an end to his Bufferings. To see his noble struggle for life, with nine bullets in him, nnd blind, inspired n painful regard toward him. What to do we knew not. It wits really unsafii to approach him so as to cut his throat. Wo could neither entangle him in tho snow, nor bring hiui down with tlin small Mticks we had cutwith our jackknives. At length w i hit upon thu folluwing expedient. Olttaining a lung stiff |)ole, one ciul of it was placed against his side. We found that he leaned against it, and that tho harder we pushed the more ho opi)osed. Uniting our strength, we pressed it with all our force : ho resisted with etpial strength. While thus pressing, wo suddenly gave way, when he fell flat upon his side. Heforu ho had tinu) to re- cover, wo sprang upon him, and with a knifu severed tho jugular vein, when ho yielded to his fate. It was nearly two hours from tho commencement of our last encounter before we dcspatchetl him. Leaving him for the night, wo returned to tho cuinp, quite overcome with hunger and fatigue. "Next morning, when wo went out to bring in our prize* we found tho other mooso affectionately standing over tho dead carcase of her slaughtered companion, manifesting much reluctance to flee. She permitted our approach sufli- cicntly ncartoofford a good shot, which wo were not un- willing to improve ; so raising the fatal weapon lo my check, I let go. She fell on tho spot, and was soon dressed with t!»o other. We took tho carcosses into camp, and, after reserving what we wished for our own use, sent the remainder to our friends." The "bull-moose" is a formid- able foe when he "gets his dander up," ond especially so at particular seasons of the year ; then unprovoked, they will war on man, betraying none of that shrinking timidity so characteristic of the ccreinc genus. Cerviu tirgurianm, Qmel. — Common Deer. Descriplion. — Form light and slender; colour red- dish-fawn in summer, and grayish in winter ; liorns mo- derate, with an antler placed high on tho inside of each shaft, and two or three others on the posterior side, turned backward, but varying with the oge of tho ani- mal ; lachrymal pits formed by a fold in the skin ; muz- zle partially developed ; no canine teeth. Length 3ft. 6in., tail 10in.,height 3ft ; length of the head, 12in ; of the horns, following the curvature, 22in.; weight from 90 to 140 pounds. flwtory.— When the country was new, this deer waa one of the most common and valuable quadrupeds found in our forests, and its flesh was much depended upon by the first settlers. Indeed, so eagerly has it been EA8TEEK TOWN SHIPS 80XNVBT. htintud, and itill lo iinxiutm uru tliu pooplu for itt pro* •crvation, Unit lawn havn boon paiiod by our Lcgiduturo for iUt protection from boing killed out of Moion. But not«f iHi«tuii ling thin haa boon dono for their proiur- valMii. their nuntl'^^rsharo been coniitantly diininiiihing, till ihfiy li»ve become Kxcocdingly icarco except in the (noRt unaettled flild woody noctioni. The range of tliia BpH^i''" In Vi Spotted Warbler. Troglodytes aedon House Wren. " hyemalis Winter Wren. Sialia Wilsonii Blue Bird. Anthos spinoletta Brown Lark. Order Zygodactyli—Thc Toes in pairs. Picus auratus .Gold-wing Woodpecker. " erythrocephalus Red-headed " «' varius Yellow-bellied " Order Tenuirostres — Slendcr-Bill ^irds. Sitta Canadensis Red-bellied Nuthatch. Trochilus colubris : luby-throat Hum'g Bird, Order Alcyoncs — Halcyons. Alcco Alcyon Belted King Fisher. Order Clielidoncs—Tkc Swallow Tribe. Hirundo purpurea Purple Martin. « rufa Barn Swallows. « fulva Cliff Swallow. " bicolor White-bellied Swallow «< riparia Bank Swallow. Cypselus pelasgius Chimney Swallow. Caprimulgus vociferus Whip-poor-Will, " Virginianus.. Night Hawk. Order Columhce—Thc rigeon Tribe. Columba migratoria. .... ..Passenger Pigeon. Order GalUna— Gallinaceous Birds. Tetrao umbellus Partridge. " Canadensis Spruce Partridge. Order Grallatores — Wading Birds. Grus Americana Whooping Crane. " Herodias Great Blue Heron. Tetanus Bartramius Upland Plover. Scolopax Wilsonii Common Snipe. " minor Woodcock. Caledris arenaria Sanderling Plover. Ardea virescens Green Heron. Tetanus chloropigius Solitary Tatler. Order Palimpedes— Web-footed Birds. Larus argentatus Herring Gull. Anser Canadensis Canadian Goose. Anas spousa Wood Duck. " boschas Mallard. •' obscura Dusky Duck. " discors ..Blue-winged Teal. Colymbus glacialis Loon. Older Granivores — Living ni Seeds. Emberiza nivalis Snow Bunting. Fringilla melodia Song Sparrow. " socialis Chipping Sparrow. •< tristis Gold Finch or Yellow Bird. «' linaria Pine Linnet. " erythrophthalma.Towhe-ground Finch. " purpurea Purple Linnet. I EASTERN TOWNSHIPS SCENEEY. 23 CHAPTER Vn. FOREST AND FRUIT TREES,— WILD AND CULTIVATED. H There is much of interest in every development of nature, — much to admire, especially in the grandeur, the picturesque heauty, and the suhlimity of largo forest trees. Hence the dlfliculty of giving a description that does not place the last before each preceding one. Than Canada, there is no country in the world where the trees contribute more beauty to the forest scenery. In autumn-tide, the gorgeous color of the forest trees in the Eastern Townships is a subject of remark by all European travellers who visit this country. In the latter part of summer and during the earlier part of autumn, the leaves begin to turn from green to a deep crimson, scarlet and gold, with all the intermediate tints. Even corresponding climates with the same itimilies bear no comparison. The dliTcrence is said mainly to depend upon the clearness of our atmosphere, and consequently greater intensity of the liglit ; for the same cause which renders a much larger number of stars visible by night, and which clothes our flowering plants with more nume- rous flowers, and those of deeper, richer tints, gives some- what of tropical splendor to our really colder parallels of latitude. The Maple stands pre-eminent for the color of its leaves in autumn. The family of the maple-tree is numerous : nearly 40 species are known, of which some 10 or 12 belong to Canada and the United States. The climate of the Eastern Townships is particularly favora- ble to their growth, as is shown by the perfection to which several of the most valuable species attain. The sugar-maple, accr saccharinum, in all respects the most remarkable tree of the family, while young is justly ad- mired for its ornamental beauties as a shrub, and when in a state of maturity for the purposes of art, as no native wood possesses more beauty or greater variety of appear- ance. In the forest, the rock-maple often attains great height, and produces a large quantity of timber : trees are often found measuring from two to three feet through at the base, and from 75 to 90 feet high, yielding from 4 to 7 cords of wood. From this tree are manufac- tured by the inhabitants of the Eastern Townships very great quantities of maple-sugar, yielding a large revenue. Of the sap, the average quantity to a tree is from 12 to 24 gallons each season, and in some instances it is much greater. It may be said that from this quantity of sap from two to five pounds of sugar can be made. Nor is sugar the only product to be obtained from tliis valuable tree : strong and excellent vinegar is made from it, as well as good wine ; and, with the addition of hops, sound and pleasant beer may be made at trifling expense. It is a remarkable fact that these trees, after having been tapped for six or seven successive years, always yield more sap than they do when first wounded. This sap, however, is not so rich as that which the trees distil for the first time, but, from its coming in an increased pro- portion, as much sugar is usually produced from a tree in the fifth year of its being tapped as in the firet. The process by which the sap is obtained is extremely simple ; nothing more being necessary than to bore a hole in the tree, and conduct the flowing liquid by means of a hollow piece of wood or tin spout, which drops into a vessel beneath. Whatever quantity of sap is collected should be boiled down the same evening, as it is liable to be spoiled in a short time by fermentation. Snow should be heaped around the roots of the trees to prevent them from putting forth their leaves so soon as they otherwise would, for as soon as the foliage commences to develope the sap will not run. After obtaining a quan- tity of maple-sap, it is poured into a large iron pan or kettle and boiled down to a thick syrup, and, after ascertaining that it is sufficiently concentrated to crystalizo or grain, it is thrown into casks or vats, and, when the sugar is formed, the molasses is drained ofi*. But little art is used in clarifying the syrup, and the chemist would regard the operations as very rude and clumsy ; yet a very pleasant sugar, with a slightly acid taste, is made, and the molasses is of excellent flavor. The sugar fre- quently contains oxide of iron, which it dissolves from the rusty kettles in which it is commonly boiled down, and hence it turns tea black. A neat manufacturer will 24 EASTEKN TOWNSHIPS SCENEBT. always take care te scour out his kettles with vinegar and sand, so that the sugar may be clean and white. He will also take care not to burn the syrup by urging the fire towards the end of the operation. If this syrup is acid, a little clear lime-water will saturate it, and the lime will principally separate with the molasses or with the scum. The syrup should be carefully skimmed during the operation. It is not worth while, perhaps, to define the process of refining sugar ; but it is perfectly easy to make maple sugar as white as the best double-refined loaf-sugar of commerce. Were it generally known how productive are the groves of sugar-maples, we should, I doubt not, be more careful not to exterminate them from the forest, as is now too frequently done. Groves in which they abound might be spared from the unrelenting axe of the woodman. Mople-trees may also be cultivated, and will become pro- ductive in 20 or 30 years ; and it would certainly be a beautiful pledge of regard for posterity, to plant groups of maples in convenient situations upon our lands, and to line the road-sides with them. Such aplan,if carried intoeffect, would please public tcutc in more respects than one, and we might be in a great measure independent of the cane- plantations of the West Indies. It must be also remark- ed that the manufacture of maple-sugar is carried on at a season of the year when there is little else to be done ; and if proper-shaped evaporating vessels were used, a much larger quantity of sugar might be mt de in the season. The Elm-Tree (Ulmus Americana). — Of this family there are several varieties ; the American,the English, the Scotch, and the Slippery Elm. The elm-tree is deservedly esteemed for its ornament and shade. It assumes many different shapes and all of them beautiful. Of these, three are most striking and distinct. The tall Etruscan vase is formed by four or five links, separating at 20 or 30 feet from the ground, going up with a gradual divergency to 60 or 70 ft., forming a flat top with a pendant border. Transplanting the elm often produces in it an appearance similar to that of the oak. Few trees of other species are to be found standing near the abodes of civilized life, which have attained the dimensions of the elm. What- ever may have been thu peculiar property oi" other trees, those trees have disappeared. Upturned by the passing hurricane or felled by the woodman's axe, they have gone, while the elm stands at our doors, associated with the memory of the generations which, like its autumnal sheddings, have mingled with the dust. This tree some- times attains a height of 100 feet, with a diameter at the base of more than 4 feet. The wood is of a dark-brown color, and is valuable for several purposes. It is often sawed into planks, and has been considerably used for knaves of wheels. For fuel, the elm is inferior to several other kinds of woods, but its ashes are strongly impreg- nated with alkali, and no wood yields a greater quantity. The Birch. — Of the birch-family there are several varieties, called Black, Yellow, Canoe, Gray, and Dwarf. Of these the yellow birch {Cetula excelsa) and the canoe birch {Cetula iiapyracea) are the most interesting and useful. The general outlines of the birch often resemble the elm ; the root-spurs rise high up the trunk, protruding much beyond the regular circle of its shaft. It is firmly rooted, and is capable of withstanding a violent blast. It attains to the height of 70 or 80 feet, and often measures from 7 to 10 feet in circumference three or four feet from the ground. Its wood is very Useful for cabinet purposes, and is excellent for fuel. The white or canoe birch is most remarkable for the beautiful thin sheets of bark which it afibrds, from which the Indian canoe is constructed, and many Indian ornaments. The white birch possesses in an eminent degree the lightness and airiness of the Birch family, spreading out its glis- tening leaves on the end of a very slender and often pensile spray, with an indescribable softness ; so that Coleridge might have called it, as he did the correspond- ing European species, " Moat beautiful Of forest trees, the lady of the wood>." The Black ok Cherry Birch (Betula lenia). This tree is called Cherry Birch from its resemblance to the wild cherry. It is also sometimes called Sweet Birch or Spice Birch on account of its agreeable aromatic smell and taste. It grows best in a deep, loose soil, and some- times reaches a height of more than 70 feet, with a di- ameter of 3 feet. The wood is highly valued by the cabinet-makers. Being fine grained, it is suceptible of a very high polish. Red Beech (Fagiis/ernigmea). The Beech is a tree of no ordinary interest, being more free from impurities than any other tree with which we are acquainted. The bork is very clean and smooth, of a light lead-color, sprinkled with fine dots of black, so that it has a grayish appearance. It attains the height of 60 or 70 feet, with a diameter of one to two feet. This tree is found in all parts of the Eastern Townships, and in some places forms almost entire forests. The wood is valuable for I i-^ EASTEEN TOWNSHIPS SCENERY. 1 25 fuel and tho arta. The fruit of tliis tree is usually abun- dant. It is often eaten, but not very highly esteemed. A rich oil may be extracted from the nuts. As beech- nuts arc injured by the full rains, those which are design- ed for preservation should be gathered as soon as ripe. The lower branches of this tree are thrown out in a hori- zontal attitude, while the upper ones assume somewhat of an erect position. The leaves are of graceful propor- tions, and profuse, forming a dense shade. " The leaves of this tree were formerly used in Britain, and are to this day in some parts of Europe, for filling beds." Evelyn says that " Its very leaves, which form a natural and most agreeable canopy all the summer, being gathered about tho fall, before they are much frost-bitten, afford the best and the easiest mattrass in the world. They are used by divers persons of quality in Dauphind and in Switzer- land." We may properly say that " Tho wood's a liouso, tlio leaves a bed." The wood of the beech is preferred to all other wood for plane-stocks, saw-handles, and for many other uses. It is said the beech is never struck by lightning. In travelling through a forest country, other trees, and more commonly the hemlock, may be seen riven by lightning, but the beech never. Iron Wood {Ostrya Viiginica). — The body of this tree, while small, is much used for levers in rolling logs, and hence it is frequently called lever-wood. The growth of this tree is very slow, as may be seen by the great number of concentric annual layers contained in a tree of only a few inches in diameter. It is thinly scattered among other trees in almost all parts of tho Townships. It seldom exceeds 30 feet in height and 8 inches in diameter. White Ash {Fraxinus acuminata) ; Red Ash {Fraxinus pubescent.) — The White Ash is thinly scattered over nearly the whole of the Townships, and seems to delight in cool situations. It is most frequently met with near ihe banks of streams, and on the acclivities surrounding ponds and swamps. It frequently attains the height of 70 or 80 feet, and a diameter of over 2 feet. By the light color of the bark, it is easily distin- guished from tho other species. The wood of this tree is highly esteemed for its strength, suppleness, and elas- ticity. It is always selected by carriage-makers for thills or shafts, the felloes of wheels, and the frames of car- riage-bodies and for sleigh-runners. It is also used for a variety of other purposes, such aa chairs, scythe-snaths, rake-handles ; hoops, sieves, boxes, wooden-bowls and other domestic wares ; also for the staves of casks, blocks for pulleys, and, on account of its strength and elasticity, is considered superior to any other kind of wood for oars. Red Ash is a handsome tree, which grows to tiic height of about sixty feet. Tho bark on tiie trunk is of a deep-brown color, and the wood differs from that of tho white ash in being redder, but it possesses most of the other properties of tiie white ash, and is used for many of tho same purposes. TiiK Black Ash {Fraxinus samhucijhlhi). — Tiie Black Ash requires a moister soil than tiie White Ash, and is found growing in and about swamps, lieiicc it is some- times called Swamp- Ash. Tho saplings of this tree arc much used for hoop-i)oles. Lime-Tree or Bass-AVood (7V//a Jmrr/m^a).— This tree is found in all parts of tiie Townsliips, and grows to tho height of 70 to SO feet, with a proportionate diame- ter. The inner bark is sometimes macerated in water and formed into ropes. Tiie wood is white and tender, and is highly valuable for many purposes. It is sawed into planks and boards, and is used for the manufacture of chair-seats, trunks, and a variety of other articles. Mr. De Courtcnay of Buiy, Eastern Townsliips, (and late of Italy,) states to the author his opinion that tho leaf of this tree may be profitably employed in tlie cul- ture of the silk-worm, and he has made arrangements for trying the experiment. Black Cheruy {Ccrasus scrotina). — Tliis is our largest species of cherry-tree, and sometimes, though rarely, exceeds 50 feet in height and 15 inches in diameter. It is scattered sparingly over the greater part of the East- ern Townships. It is sometimes called Wild Cherry ; and also Cabinet Cherry, from the use made of it l)y the cabinet-makers. The perfect wood is of a dull light-red color, which deepens with age. It is compact, fine-grained, and not liable to warp when perfectly sea- soned. It is extensively used in almost all kinds of fur- niture, and sometimes rivals mahogany in beauty. The bark of this tree is aromatic, has an agreeable bitter taste, and is often used as a tonic. Butternut {Juglaus cincrca), — The Butternut is found pretty generally throughout the Townships. It thrives best on a dark, cold soil, and often measures over three feet in diameter, although it seldom exceeds GO feet in height. The roots of the butternut usually extend horizontally, with little variation in size and but a few inches below the surface of the ground, often to a dis- 26 eastehn townships scenehi. tance of 30 feet or more, which makes it a troublesome tree when growing upon or adjacent to lands intended for tillage. The wood of this tree is light, and of a reddish color, and, though it has little strength, it is du- rable, and not liable to split. It makes a beautiful finish for the inside of houses, and, when left in its own natural color and varnished, has a fine eflect. It however re- ceives paint in a superior manner. The extract of the bark of this tree is sometimes used for a c/'thnrtic. The nuts of this tree arc generally gathered, and, although very oily, are agreeable to the taste. The trees described form the most important of the Hard-Wood species found in the Eastern Townships. " Fir Trees are a northern type, and are very rare in the tropical regions. The freshness of their evergreen leaves cheers the desert winter landscape ; it proclaims to the inhabitants of these regions, that, although snow and ice cover the earth, the internal life of the plants, like the fire of Prometheus, is never extinguished." Phius bahamca (Balm of Gilcad Fir, or American Silver Fir) grows to the height of 50 feet ; is an elegant tree, resembling the Silver-Fir of Europe. The Resin of this species is the common Canada Balsam, which is often substituted for the Balm of Gilead. It is found in small blisters on the bark, extracted by incision and received in a limpid state in a shell or cup. The texture of the wood is coarse and firm. Throughout the Town- ships, in some localities where pine is scarce, it is very ex- tensively used as a substitute for finishing. Indeed, it may be said to afford the principal lumber of the Townships. Where this tree stands alone and developes itself natu- rally, its branches, which are numerous and thickly gar- nished with leaves, diminish in length in proportion to their height, and thus form a round pyramid or cone of -remarkable regularity and beauty. Pinus Canadensis (Hemlock Spruce) is a beautiful and very large tree, bearing some resemblance in its foliage to ihe common Yew-Tree of England. This tree is found quite generally distributed throughout the Townships. It flourishes best in a sandy loam, at the foot of hills, and on lands slightly inclining. In such situations, the trees are often from three to four feet in diameter. The size of the body of this tree is nearly uniform for about two thirds of its length. In very old trees, the large limbs are often broken off four or five feet from the trunk by the weight of the snows lodged upon them, giving to the trees a decrepid aspect. The wood of this tree, though abundant, is coarse-grained and inferior to most of the other Evergreens. It is, however, extensively used for frames and joists of build- ings, for the timbers and planks of bridges, for the floors of barns, for lining-boards, lath-boards, Ac. The logs are used for building dams, wharves, and break-waters, and they are bored and much used for aqueducts. Tho bark of the hemlock is very valuable for the purpose of tanning leather. Pinns strohua (Wiiite Pine). — This Pino has been called by some the " monarch of the forest." Mankind pretty generally, however, are disposed to place the Oak at the head of the vegetable kindgom. To those who have stood in the noble Pine groves of Canada, beneath their giant forms, the wind, sighing through their branches, seemed as it were to chaunt forth the requiem of the lied 5fan, once the owner of the soil, who has now passed away and gone to the Spirit Land. " The pines of Mccnalus were heard to mourn, And sounds or woe along the grove were borne." The Pine-tree too seems doomed, by the avarice and tho enterprise of the white man, gradually to disappear from the borders of civilization, as have the Aborgines of this country before the onward march of the Saxon Race. Twenty-five or thirty years ago, large tracts of the East- ern Townships were covered principally with Pine-trees. These seemed to be purposely located in the vicinity of lakes and large streams. Lumbering operations could then be carried on contiguous to improved portions of the country; but the woodman's axe, togetiicr with destruc- tive fires, have, so to speak, driven this tree far back into the interior wilderness, so that but a few isolated pines may now be seen towering above the surrounding forest as monuments of their departed race. The White Pino is much the most lofty tree which grows in our forests, and the most valuable for its timber. While the pine forests were standing, trees measuring from 100 to 150 feet in height were not uncommon, with a diameter of from 4 to G ft. at the base. In consequence of the indis- criminate havoc among our forest-trees by tiie early set- tlers and of the common use of this tree for timber, boards and shingles for buildings, and other domestic uses, to- gether with the great demand for it for exportation, our forests of white pine have mostly disappeared, and boards and shingles of good quality have become scarce and difficult to be obtained. Piniis nigra (Double Spruce). — This tree is very com- mon throughout the Townships. The usual height is EASTERN TOWNSHIPS SCENERY. 27 from GO to 80 f'tiot, and diameter from 1 J to 8 feet. It is found on tliu very summits of our mountains. The wood of the Double Spruce is distinguished for strength, lightness, and elasticity, and is extensively used for frames of houses and other buildings. It is also sawed into boards and clap-boards, which, though more dillicult to prepare, are, for many purposes, little inferior to pine. The young branches of the tree, boiled in water, and the decoction sweetened with molasses or maple-sugar, make what is called spruce-beer. The resin which exudes from the bark is called spruce-gun».~7'(««s a//«« (Single Spruce). This Spruce is also plentiful in the Eastern Townships. In most respects, it bears a close resemblance to the preceding species, and is applied to the same uses. American Larch {Pinus jicmlula). — This tree is gene- rally known in the Eastern Townships by the name of Tamarack, but is sometimes called Larch, and some- times Hackmatack. It seems to delight in a cold, wet soil. In some swamps of the Townships it is found in great quantities. With us this tree seldom exceeds from GO to 90 feet, with a diameter of from 1 to 2 feet ; but in the neighbourhood of Hudson's Bay it is said to emulate our White Pine, rising to the height of nearly 200 feet. This tree sheds its leaves in Autumn, though its appearance in Summer might lead one to suppose it to be an ever- green. Although it snaps considerably when burning, it is much superior to the Evergreens for fuel. The wood of the tamarack is distinguished by the following quali- ties, — of reddish color, close grained, and compact, re- markable for its great weight, strength, and durability. On these accounts, it is preferred before all other woods for knees, beams, and top-timbers in ship-building. It has crowded tufts of leaves, not unlike those of the spruce or pine, of much lighter green, so disposed on the ends of the branches as to make the foliage of the tree the lightest of all the forest trees, especially when compared with its great strength. Though in America it is most ge- nerally found in low land, where it has depth of soil and plenty of moisture, it has nevertheless the property of flourishing on surfaces almost without soil, thickly strewn with fragments of rocks, on the high bleak sides cud tops of hills. The successful experiments made by the Duke of Athol in the Highlands of Scotland, are so deeply interesting and important, that the following brief state- ment of them is given, hoping the example may be fol- lowed in similar positions in this country. Commencing in the year 1740, there were planted more than 14 mil- lions of larch-plant?, occupying over 10,000 English acres. It was estimated that the whole forest or waste territory planted entirely with Larch, about 0,600 Scotch acres, will in 70 years from the time of planting bo a forest of timber fit for building the largest ships. Before being cut down for this purpose, it will have been thinned to about 400 trees to an acre. Supposing each tree to yield 50 cubic feet of timber, its value, at a shilling a foot (much less than the present value), will give ^1000 per acre, or, in all, a sum of jCC,500,000 sterling, equivalent to nearly $32,500,000.» The Duke of Athol had the satisfaction to behold a British frigate built in 1819-20 at Woolwich Dock-yard, out of timber planted at Blair and Dunkeld by himself and the Duke his predecessor. This fact should afford sufficient encouragement to induce all to turn their attention to the growth of timber by planting where it is becoming scarce. White Cedar, or Arborvitae (Thwja occideiitalis.) — This tree is found growing only in swamps and along the banks of streams and ponds, and is universally known in the Eastern Township by the name of Cedar, and is found in many localities in great quantities. The wood of this tree is nearly white, with a slight tinge of red. It is very light, soft, and fine-grained, and somewhat odorous. For durability, it ranks second to no timber found in this sec- tion, and is extensively used for posts and rails for fences. Mountain Ash, or Moosemissa {Sorbus Americana). This beautiful little tree is common upon our hills and moun- tains, and is found to thrive well upon transplanting. It seldom exceeds 25 feet in height, or 4 or 5 inches in dia- meter. It is generally known by the name of the Moun- tain Ash, but is not unfrequeutly called Moosemissa. No use is made of the wood, but the bark affords un agree- able bitter, and is considerably used as a tonic. But this tree is chiefly valued as an ornamental shade-tree ; and its beautiful white blossoms, its pinnated globous leaves, and bunches of red berries, which remain upon the tree during the winter, make it much admired for that purpose. Miss Kent, in her "Sylvan Sketches," says: "In former times this tree was supposed to be pos- sessed of the property of driving away witches and evil spirits, which is alluded to in a vcrj' ancient song, called the Laidey of Spindleton's Heughs :— 'Their spells were vaia : the boys returned To the Queen in sorrowful mood, Crying that ' Witchei have oo power Where there is rowan-tree wood I' " ' Reports on Trees and Shrubs of Massachusetts. 28 EASTERN TOWNSHIPS SCENEUY. FiiuiT Thees. — For ninny years nftor the settleniont of the EnstiMii Townsliipswas coinincnced, very little atten- tion was paid to the cultivation of Fruit-trees. Apple orchards, it is true, were early planted in many places, and in some cases plums, cherries, and perhaps pears, but they were generally suflered to produce their natural fruit, and very little efl'ort was made to improve it by pruning and cultivation. But for a few years past much more attention has been given to this subject, and many choice varieties of these fruits have been introduced and extensively propagated by grafting and budding. BKitiJiES. — The Eastern Townships produce a consider- able variety of berries, both wild and cultivated, and many (if them are highly serviceable, not only for desserts, but for articles of food. One of the most important of these is the Cinrant, of which we have three species. The red, the white, and the black currant are largely cultivated in gardens, and are highly esteemed. WhorlJi:hcrrics of various kinds are produced in great plenty in many parts of the Townships. Tlic Ranplcrrij (Red) is very abundant upon our hills and pasture-lands. Gooseberries are found growing wild in all parts of the country, but the fruit is generally small. Dlackhcrrks are common, and they are universally re- garded as the most wholesome and delicious wild berry found in the Townships. A variety of this berry is occasionally found the colorof which is a delicate yellow- ish white. It is sometimes cultivated in gardens, and, contradictory as the terms may seem, several have been able to assert without contradiction that they could en- tertain their visitants with a dessert of while blacJcherrics. The Barberry Bush grows in some parts of the Town- ships ; but so little use is made of the beriy, that no elTort is made to multiply it. Two kinds of Crdiibcnics, the high and the low, arc common in many of the swamps ; and preserved in sugar, they make an agreeable and wholesome sauce. The common field Strawberry is diffused over the whole Eastern Townships, and in its season affords a consider- able quantity of delicious fruit. The Fux and Frost Grapes are sometimes found grow- ing wild in the Townships. In addition to the above, wo have the Mulberry, the Checker- Bary, the Partridge-Berry, and some others, which are eaten ; and several kinds, as the Sumach, Elder, Juniper, &c., which are used in medicine or the arts. In the preceding account of our forest-trees, we had intended to notice a few of the many herbs, roots, and shrubs which are or have been of repute for their medicinal virtues, but we have not room. We would however remark, that the Ginseng {Panax quimjuefolia), which is regarded as a panacea in China, and was sup- posed to be indigenous only to that country and Tartary, till 1720, when it was discovered by the Jesuit Lafitan in the forests of Canada, exists in considerable quantities in the Townships. Floweuing-Plants. The Eastern Townships are par- ticularly rich, considering their northern situation and mountainous surface, in beautiful flowering-plants. Among our most beautiful flowering-shrubs may be men- tioned the Witch Hazel {Homomeks Virgi7iica). This shrub puts forth its modest yellow blossoms, usually in October, after the leaves have been killed by the frost, but the seed is not matured till the following year. Poison- ous Plants which are natives of the Eastern Tovtrnships are not numerous. Enough however exist to render cau- tion necessary in gathering herbs, either for food or medicine. EASTEEN TOWNSHIPS SCENEEY. £9 CHAPTER VIII. GEOLOGY AND MINERALS. In briefly sketching the leading Geological features of the Eastern Townships of Canada East, we beg to bo understood as doing no more than registering such facts and observations as have been remarked by those who have made this subject their study. It may be here ob- served, that the geology of a country not only indicates the quality of the soil, but exercises an important influ- ence on the salubrity of the climate. The rocks of Canada, with the exception of the glacial drift, belong to the Azoic and the Palaeozoic eras. The Azoic rocks are divided into Laurentian and Uuronian, prevailing on the north side of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, running in a general course from Labrador to Lake Superior. The Palaeozoic consists of Silurian, De- vonian, and Carboniferous ; the latter forming a narrow strip, without coal-beds, along the north shore of Bay of Chaleur and in Gasp^. The rocks of the Eastern Town- ships are thus confined to the two lower series of the Palaeozoic era. These in Western Canada, from their qu":""ient condition, give a flat surface ; but in the East- en Townships, being disturbed and corrugated, they give origin to a surface beautifully varied with hill and valley. The physical structure of this part of Canada is thus exceedingly complicated. It has, however, been completely marked out by Sir W. E. Logan ; and the details wrill be fjund in the Reports of the Geological Survey, to which the reader is referred. The rocks of which the district is composed abound in mineral ores, and many beautiful varieties of marble, specimens of which may be seen in the Museum of the Geological Survey, at Montreal. The various mineralogical substances found in the Eastern Townships, and capable of application to useful purposes, are enumerated below. The following is a list of the economic minerals of the Eastern Townships : Metals and Ores. Specular Iron Ore. — St. Armand ; Sutton, three locali- ties ; Brome, three localities ; Bolton. Limonile {Bug Ore). — Stanbridgc, Ireland, and other localities. Titanifirom Iron. — Vaudreuil (Beauce). Copimr. — Inverness and Leeds, variegated coi)per. Up- ton, argentiferous copper pyrites. Ascot, copper jiyritet containing gold and silver. Nickel. — Ham, and Bolton, associated with chromic iron. Gold. — Sir William E. Logan has devoted much atten- tion to the discovery and distribution of gold. The auriferous tract is clearly known to exist over 10,000 square miles on the south side of the St. Lawrence, especially in the Eastern Townships in the valley of the St. Francis, from Richmond to Salmon River, and on the Magog River above Sherbrooke ; but remarks " that the deposit will not, in general, remunerate unskilled labour ; and that agriculturists, artisans, and others engaged in the ordinary occupations of the country, would only lose their labour by turning gold-hunters." Non-Metallic Minerals. Chromium. — Bolton and Ham are localities of large beds of chromic iron. Manganese. — Bolton, Stanstead, Beauce, earthy peroxyd. Dolomite. — Sherbrooke, Drummond, St. Armand, Dun- ham, Sutton, Brome, Ely, Durham, Melbourne, Kingsey, Shipton, Chester, Halifax, Inverness, Leeds. Carbonate of Magnesia. — Sutton, Bolton. Iron Ochres. — Durham and othT localities. Steatite. — Sutton, Bolton, Melbourne, Ireland, Potton. The steatite of Stanstead and Leeds is ground and em- ployed as a paint. Jasper. — Ascot. Labrador Felspar.— Dmmmond and many other locali- ties. Shell-Marl. — St. Armand, Stanstead. MiU-Stones. — The best is a corneous diorite which ac- companies the serpentine of the Eastern Townships, and has been wrought at Bolton. 30 EA8TEEN TOWNSHIPS SCENERY. The granites of Stansteiul, Bamston, Barford, Ilerefonl, Marston, Straflbrd, Wliedon, and Vaudreuil (Beauce), are used for making mill-stones. The pseudo-granites and diorites of the mountains of St. ThtT^se, Rouville, Rougemont, Sheflbrd, Yamaska, and Bromc, are also sometimes employed to make mill-stones. Whetstones. — Potton, Stanstcad, Ilatley, Bolton, Ship- ton, and Marston. Building Mateuial8. Granites. — Large masses of a very beautiful intrusive granite are found in many of the Eastern Townships ; among other localities, in Stanstead, Bamston, Hereford. Marston, Megantic Mountains, Wheedon, Winslow, Staf- ford, and Lampton. The diorites of the Mountains of St. Thdrtise, Rouville, Rougemont, Yamaska, Sheflbrd, and Brome, furnish good building-stones. Limestones. — Phillipsburg, Upton, Acton, Wickham, Magoon's Point (Stanstead), Hatley, DudswcU, and Rich- mond. Ruofing-Slatcs. — Kingsey, Halifax, Lambton, Mel- bourne, Westbury. Slate-quarries have been recently opened in the Townships of Kingsey ni 1 Richmond, and ore now in operation. In specific gravity and chemical composition, the slate is sold to resemble the finest Welsh slate. In the Eastern Townships, clay- slates have been extensively discovered. Flagging-Stones. — Sutton, Potton, Stanstead, Inver- ness. Clays. — Clay suitable for the fabrication of red bricks, tiles, and coarse pottery, is found throughout the Town- ships. MuuliUng-Sand.-^Sta,nsictiA. Marbles. — White and Black. — Phillipsburg. . ♦• — Ydlow and Black. — Several varieties, Duds- well. " — Grey and variegated. — Phillipsburg. " — G/-«c;i.— Serpentines aflbrding several beau- tiful varieties of Marble occur along a range of 150 miles in the Eastern Townships. It will be seen from the above that the Eastern Town- ships are rich in mineral resources requiring only enter- prise and capital to develop them. Of late years, some investments have been made in this direction, which havQ not been unprofitable. EASTEnN TOWNSHIPS SCENEBY. 81 CHAPTER IX. rniNCTPAL TOWNS AND VILLAOES. The Town of Shcrbrooke — the Motropolis of tlio Townships — is situate at the conflucnco of tlio River Magog witii tiie St. Francis. The position of tli" Town, rising from the beautiful valley of the St. Frnncis on a series of falls J of a mile in length and having a total height of 100 feet, is most romantic, and, lying as it does almost equidistant from Montreal, Quebec, and Portland, on the great artery of the Grand Trunk Railway, it is destined, on the development of its great manufacturing power, to reach a high position of prosperity. The British American Land Company have their head oflicc here, and own the whole of the very fine water-power. Amongst the industrial works at present in operation, may be named, a large Saw-Mill, an extensive Pail-Fac- tory, a Woollen-Factory, a Paper-Mill, a Grist-Mill with 4 run of stones. Foundry, Tannery, several Machine- Shops, Wheelwrights, &c. The Head Office of the Eastern Townships Bank is also located in this place, together with an Agency of the Montreal City Bank. Sherbrooke is the centre of the Judicial District of St. Francis, and has a resident Judge and Bar, with Protho- notary's Office, «&c. The Court-House is a fine building on a commanding site, with a Jail in close proximity. The population is about 4000 in number, and very mixed in character, — comprising people of English, Irish, Scotch, and American origin, together with a considerable body of French-Canadians. The following religious denominations are here repre- sented, — Episcopalians, Congregationalists, Methodists, and Roman Catholics. A new Town-Hall and an Aca- demy have been lately constructed, and add much to the appearance of the Town. The private residences and gardens of the inhabitants show evidence of great taste and the culture of the humanizing arts. Sherbrooke is the most important way-station of the Grand Trunk Railway between Montreal and Portland, and, from its happy position near to and amidst fine scenery, a very considerable stream of pleasure travel passes through it during the summer months, — a daily stage connecting it with the celebrated Lake Memphrc- miigog, only IG miles distant. There are several excel- lent Hotels, such as the Magog House, the Railway and St. Francis Hotels, Sherbrooke House, &c. Stanstead Plain is situated in the County of Stanstead and near the Frontier Line. It is incorporated as a municipality, and has a population of about 1000. It is the business-centre of one of the most wealthy agricul- tural counties in the Eastern Townships. It is beauti- fully situated on a plain, commanding a great range of Alpine scenery extending as far as the eye can reach, southerly, along the Green Mountains of Vermont and their continuation into Canada, along the western shore of the beautiful and picturesque Lake Memphrcmagog, till they arc lost in northern distance. Among the buildings of note may be mentioned Clirist Church, just completed, and inaugurated on the 16th of November last, by Dr. Ilcllmuth, Superintendent of the Colonial Church and School Society of Quebec. It is of the pointed Gothic style, of stone (rubble), cruciform. In architec- tural design, the interior is in keeping with the exterior. The windows are of the arched Gothic form ; the prin- cipal (east) one being 18x9 feet, and set with ground and stained glass. The natural color of the wood used for the finish is retained throughout. The tout-cniemble of this Church is most agreeable. To the unwearied exer- tions of the resident clergyman. Rev. W. L. Thompson, the society is much indebted for the edifice above par- tially described. The Wesleyan Methodists have a comfortable and commodious Church, built of brick, — the whole present- ing a pleasing appearance. The same may be said of the Congregational Church, the interior of which has lately been remodelled. The Roman Catholics have a large and commodious Church in this place. The Academy is a tasty and appropriate structure of brick, two stories in height, accommodating a separate depart- ment for ladies and gentlemen. There are three Hotels, 32 EASTERN TO^VNSIIIPS SCENERY. aflbnling good and comfortablo acconiniodatioiifi. Tho Eastern Townships Dnnk has hero a Druncli. Between Rock Ishind and Stanstead Plain is sitnated tho beautiful residence, in rural Gothic style, of C. A. KiU born, Esq. Perhaps no wiiorc in Canada has so much attention been given to detail of finish as in this build- ing, under tho supcrintendenco of Jiidson York, archi- tect and builder. Jlessrs. C. C. Colby and A. Knight ore just completing two fine residences ; Mr. Colby's, of stone, in the Italian style, and Mr. Knight's, of wood, in tho villa stylo. There are many other tasty residences in this village. Rock Island, situated in so near proximity to Stan- stead Plain as to be included in thu same village, although out of the municipality, is a thriving, enter- prising manufacturing village. Coaticook, on the lino of the Grand Trunk Raihvoy, Bornston, East and West Ilatley, Georgcville on the shore of Lake Memphremagog, and Magog at its outlet, all in the County of Stanstead, are pleasant ond thriving villages, with academics and Protestant churches in nearly all of them. At Magog, manufactures are being carried on to a con- siderable extent, among which is the mill of Messrs. Copp & Knowlton, built under tho superintendence of II. A. Dolloff, a thorough millwright. The enterprising and persevering managing director of the St. Johns, SheiTord, and Stanstead Railroad, Mr. A. B. Foster, ]M.P.P., is using every exertion to extend this road to Magog during ISCO. Compton County includes the villages of Cookshire (the chcf-llcu), Eaton, Waterville, ond Compton Centre, in which latter are Episcopal, Methodist, and Roman Catholic Churches, and a High School. Lennoxville is a pleasant village on the Grand Trunk Railway. Bishop's College is here situated, and many fine residences add beauty to its picturesque scenery. Brompton Falls, on the St. Francis, is important, principally on account of its lumbering operations. Richmond and Melbourne lie on opposite sides of the St. Francis at the junction of the Quebec branch of the Grand Trunk with the through- line from Montreal to Portland. Danville, on the Quebec Branch of the Grand Trunk, is situated in the Township of Shipton, County of Rich- mond and District of 8t. Francis, distant from Montreal 87 miles, from Quebec 84. The section of country about Danville and adjacent towns is of a high agricultural character, and has increased rapidly since tho construc- tion of the Grand Trunk Railway. The sconic i)eautiea of this region, from a point of high land on tho highway leading from Shipton to Danville, are equal in their class to any in tho Townships. Of tho Western Counties of tho Eastern Townships the principal are liroine, Sheflbrd, and Missisquoi. Knowl- ton, situated in the former County near Bromo Lake, is the cfirf-Hi.ii, has a Court-llouse, Episcopal and Methodist Churches, and an Academy. Sheflbrd and Frost villages, in tho county of Sheflbrd (one of the most iluurishing agricultural counties of tho Townships), lie near each other, and arc pleasant and prosperous villages. Oranby, the present terminus of the St. Johns, Sheflbrd, and Stansit "id Railroad, is distant from tho St. Ilyacinlhe Station of tho Grand Trunk Railroad 2-3 miles. Sweetsburg is the chef-l'icu ot Mississquoi County. Bedford, Stun bridge, Cuwansville, Dunham, and Philips- burg, in the same county, arc all thriving places, having been settled many years and possessing many advan- tages of situation and beauties of scenery. The St. Johns, glicflbrd, and Stonstead Railroad, now being opened thr.jgh this section of the country, will aflbrd great advantages in the way of a direct communi- cation with Jlontreal ; and afterward with Boston and New York, as the road is to be extended immediately to Magog, there connecting with the contemplated Now- port terminus of the Passumpsic and Connecticut Rivor Railroad, by means of Lake Memphremagog and the steamer '• Mountain Maid." It is also intended to fonn a direct land-connection between these roads at or near the Provincial Line in the town of Stanstead. This will furnish the most direct means of communication between Montreal, the White Mountains, Boston, and New York, for the travelling public, either for buisness or pleasure. The present connections and arrangements of these roads may be learned upon reference to tho advertisements of either of them. i CiaTEBK jWrNSHIFS SCENEBT. 88 1 CIIAPTEU X. DRHCItII>TION OK PL AT K 8. In no other country does nature develop her beauty and sublimity in forma more vuritMl than in the Eastern Townships of Canada. Tiiis fact is acknowledged by all who become acquainted with tiieir character. Her mountains, sometimca invested in gloom as a thunder- storm deepens the shadows that ever exist in their gorges, have a grandeur which is also congenial with tlie sun- shine that at other times gilds their summits. Their spirit then rejoices In the brightness of light. Wooded generally from base to summit, they repose in majesty, and, as mists withdraw themselves in folds along their sides, they reveal still more of the beautiful and the sub- lime. Chasms, ravines, and precipices are there, and among their solitudes sublimity reigns. Enchanting lakes lie scattered over the face of the country, bor- dered hero by gentle slopes, there by precipitous cliffs ; cultivated fields, and wide-spread pastures, with woods interspersed ; vales serene and cheerful, shut in by moun- tain ranges, with their wavy lines rising and sinking softly in the blue sky ; ample plains highly cultivated, and adorned with farm-houses, single or in groups, and beautiful villages. In accordance with the beauties of nature, and the in- creased cultivation of the country, the many villas and ornamental cottages that are rising by lake and river side, all furnish a prospect seldom equalled and never excelled. Almost every vale has its lake, stream, or rivulet ; murmuring rills and perennial torrents flow from every spring or marsh. Its lakes are indeed its great glory. By them the glens, the mountains, and the woods are illumined, and its" rivers made to sing for joy." Reflected in this pure element, the great and stern objects of nature look more sub- lime and beautiful : they appear to belong ratner to heaven than to earth. The evanescence of all that im- agery, impresses us with the thought, that all it represents, steadfast as it seems, will utterly pass away ; and when the setting sun is seen to sink beneath the mountains, and its golden rays at the same instant vanish from the lake, we sigh to think how transitory are all things. Were the question asked, What part of the world should first bo visited to view nature in her most beautiful aspect? the answer should bo. Never go abroad before seeing the beauties of our own land, which generally is and should be the dearest to every man. That which makes us desire to widen tlio circle of our observation, is an impulse of delight and love. Strange would it be if we were not first of all moved towards what is most beautiful belonging to our own land ; other- wise our hearts were faithless to home affections, from which spring all others that are good. The nurture and growth of the love of country depend on our earliest associations connected with our own soil. These will ever keep it in our eyes the loveliest spot on earth. Other countries will never be as perfectly understood and ap- preciated. The beauty impressed upon our minds among the scenes of our childhood, and believed to exist there only, becomes a golden light, which, if we do not ob- scure it, will " shine unshadowed in the dreariest places, till the desert blossoms like the rose." The title-page contains two views ; — one of Owl's Head, Lake Memphremagog Mountain-House, from Skin- ner's Island ; the other. Round Island, from a point near the Mountain House, looking south. LAKE MEMPHREMAQOa FROM THE RESIDENCE OP M. W. COPP, ESQ., M.T., PLEASANT OUTLET, MAGOQ. In traversing the shores of this enchanting lake, the tourist is surprised and delighted with the variety of as- pects it assumes, and the many beautiful prospects which are so often presented. To do justice to this lake, its shores and its many beautiful islands, it would require a volume. This being the principal feature among the 34 EASTEttH TOWNSHIPS SCBNERY, ■cciiio boniitif* of tlu> KiiHtcrii TowiiKhipN, tlio nrtist will 1»« cxcustMJ for ilwi'lliiiK on tlio nttrnction* of thin Inki', mill for giviiij? live piiiton iliniitrativoof it* Hconi'ry. Wiiilu lio iltu'iiiH it liift Imprativo duty to do lo, it in no way niilitatcK nKainut the intcri'stH of other portions of the EnHternTownnhip ; for in proportion as tiiiH eliarni- ing laiI>I WITH TIIR RT. nUNCII. This view is taken from a point opposite Lennoxvillu, aflbrdinga view of tho junction of the two Rivers, tit. Francis and Massawipiti ; collogo-hill and t lie bridge across the MaNsawippi forming tho background. To the left, llishop's College and a brick Chapel in Gothic stylo, present a commanding and imposing appearance. At tho right, a short distance from the hank of the river, is situ- ated tho beautiful village of LenuoxvUlo. LITTLE DALDWIN OU PINNACLE LAKE, DAUN8T0N, E. T. This small Liiko lies in tho southern part of tho Town- ship of Barnston, about ten miles cast of Stanstcad Plain. It is Burrounded on all sides by mountains, of which tho principal is called " Pinnacle Mountain." This cmincnco rises abruptly from the north-east shore of the Lake. Tho portion nearest tho Lake rises to the height of 1000 feet nearly perpendicular from its base. Tho mountain is somewhat wooded for nearly two thirds of its altitude. From this point to its apex, no trees are to be seen, nor is thoro much appearance of vegetation. That portion bared presents little else to the view than great masses of granite rock, thrown together in nature's wildest con- fusion. Tho view in tho illustration is taken from tho south end of the lake, looking north. No view in tho Eastern Townships presents so singular an aspect aa this. owl's-iiead moM suoar-loaf mountain. Gazing from somo of the heights or promontories which hero surround us, ono feels "raptured and amazed." Now we behold Owl's-IIcud, where the grey rocks dip down into unfathomable water; now deep, retreating bays, then bold and rugged shores which have been washed for ages by the waters of Lake Momphremagog. Rugged and stupendous cliffs rise on every hand, waving with trees which seem to grow from solid rock. Every crev- ice or cavern returns its echo, — a speaking stillness per- vades tho whole scene. Tho eagle may bo seen sitting in lonely majesty on somo lofty rock, or sailing slowly by high in tho air. Owl's-IIead, the highest mountain which rises from the shores of tho lake, is situated on the western side near the centre of tho lake. Its height is 2500 feet from tho surface of tho lake. In tho extreme 86 '\ EASTEBN TOWNSHIPS SCENEET. southern distance may be seen Willougliby Notch, "rd to < 'ie left of the illustration a portion of the highly cul- tivated Township of Stanstead ; to the south, the lake, with its islands studding its mirrored surface. FALLS ON THE COATICOOK. These Falls may be reached by leaving the highway between the Villages of Compton aad Coaticook, at a point of the road distant about a mile from the latter village. These romantic falls extend a mile or more. Our view is taken from the interior of the chasm, looking down the river. Here the spectator is surrounded on all sides with rocks of great height, fringed with tangled masses of shrubs and trees, nourished by the constant spray ascending from the boiling waters beneath. Hem- lock and spruce trees grow from every crevice and rent in these rocky walls, adding wild grace and beauty to the scene. The roar and din of the falling waters are al- ways heard. Altogether, these falls are full of sublimity and awe ; and even the boldest cannot look into the dark chasm and behold its waters tumbling and boiling, with- out becoming excited in the highest degree. LAKE i:US?AWIPPI. This view is taken from the road leading to East Hal- ley, from Massawippi Village. From this point, nearly the whole extent of the lake is opened up to view ; mir- ror-like reflecting the mountains winch bound the oppo- site shore. Its shores are richly wooded, and indented by winding bays and points jutting into the lake. In the middle distance and to the right of the picture, is Black- berry Mountain. Many people resort to this mountain for the purpose of gathering the delicious blackberry, which grows there in abundance. As a >v'\olo, this lake affords scenery of the finest description, and it is questionable if it is excelled by any of the lakes of the Eastern Townships. VIEW FHOM TUE AUTIST'S RESIDENCE. The artist has taken the liberty of giving a view from his own residence, considering it as he docs one of much beauty. It embraces the range of mountains west of Lake Memphremagog ; Owl's-Head occupying the centre of the picture, with a glimpse of the lake at the left. A tract of highly cultivated country occupies the space between the back and fore ground. The road in view is the one leading from Stanstead Plain to Rock Island. VIEW OF THE RIVER ST. FRANCIS NEAR RICHMOND AND MELBOURNE. This view is one of the first seen by the tourist in approaching the Townships proper from Montreal, via the Grand Trunk Railway, and is the more pleasing as it contrasts with the rather uninteresting country between St. Hyacinthe and this point. The large building in the distance is St. Francis College, now affiliated with the McGill College, Montreal. The Quebec and Richmond Railway connects with the main line of the Grand Trunk at this place. 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