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MEACHi\3I, ^ XX-SUFERINTENDENT OF INDIAN AFFAIRS AND CHAIRMAN OF THE LATE MODOC PEACE COMMISSION. dllttstrahir bj) portraits of THE AUTHOR, GEN. CANBY, 1)K. THOMAS, CAPT. JACK, SCIIONCHIK, SCAR-FACED CHARLEY, BLACK JIM, BOSTON CHARLEY, TOBEY AND RIDDLE, AND ELEVEN OTHER SPIRITED AND LIFE-LIKE ENGRAVINGS OF ACTUAL SCENES FROM MODOC INDIAN LIFE, AS WITNESSED BY THE AUTHOR. SECOXD AIV1> R£VISE» EMTIOX. ' BOSTON:^ JOHN P. DALE AND COMPANY, 27 BoTLBTON Street. '' . ' _ r 1875. r C.3 Entered according to act of Congress, In the year 1875, by A. B. MKACIIAM, In tho Office of the Librarian of Congress ut Wasbington. J3t(S8 of BOCKVELL AND C II t'ltC II ILIi, £9 Arch Street, Itoatun. PREFACE. ♦ ♦ ♦ The Hon. A. B. Meaciiam has committed to me the difllcult and delicate, yet delightful task of revising the manuscript and arranging the table of contents of the present work. I have endeavored to review every page as an impartial critic, and have, as far as possible, retained, in all its simplicity and beaut}', the oingularl} eloquent and fascinating st3'le of the gifted author. The changes which I have made have lieen, for the most part, quite immaterial — no more nor greater than would be re- quired in the manuscript of writers commonly called " learned." In no case have I attempted (for the attempt would have been vain) to give shape and tone to the writer's thoughts. His mind was so full, both of the comedy and the tragedy of his thrilling narrative, that it has flowed on like a mighty torrent, bidding defiance to any attempt either to direct or control. None, it seems to me, can peruse the work without being charmed with the love of justice and the fidelity to truth which pervade its every page, as well as the manl}' courage with which the writer arraigns Power for the crime of crushing Weakness — holding our Government to an awful accountabilitj' for the delays, the ignorance, the fickleness and treacher}- of its subordinates in dealing with a people whose very religion prompts them to wreak vengeance for wrongs done them, even on the innocent. 173409 II rUEFACE. a'li For the lover of romance and of tlirillin^ adventure, the work possesses a eliarui scarcely equalled by the enchanting pages of a Fenniniore Cooper ; and, to the reader who appreciates truth, justice, and humanity, and delights to trace the outlines of such a career as Providence seems to have marked out for the author, as well as for the unfortunate tril)e8 whose history he has given us, it will be a reliable, entertaining, and instructive companion. Mr. Meacham's thirty years' experience among the Indian tribes of the North-west, and his ofllcial career as Superintendent of Indian affairs in Oregon, together with his participation in the tragic events of the Lava lied, invest his words with an authority which must outweigh that of every flippant politician in the land, who, to secure the huzzas of the mob, will applaud the oppressor and the tyrant one day, ar ^ • ver}' next day clamor mercilessly for their blood. D. L. emj:rson. 11 BosTOK, Oct. 1, 1874. INTRODUCTION. • *» The chapter in our Nationul History whicli tdU our dcnlinj?s witli the Indian tribes, froi-.i Plymouth to San Francisco, will be one of the darkest and nm-t disgruceful in our annuls. Fraud and oppression, hypocrisy and violi'ncc, open, high-handed robbery and sly cheating, the swindling agent and the brutal soldier turned into a brigand, buying promotion by pandering to the hate and fears of the settlers, avarice and indifference to human life, and lust for territory, all play their parts in the drama. Except the negro, no race will lift up, at the judgment-seat, such accusing hands against this nation as the Indian. We have put him in charge f agents who have systematically cheated him. We have made causeless war on him merely as a pretext to steal his lands. Trampling under foot the rules of modern warfare, we have made war on his women and children. AVc have cheated him out of one hunt- ing-ground by compelling him to accept another, and have robbed liim of the last by driving him to frenzy, and then punishing resistance with confiscation. Meanwhile, neither pulpit nor press, nor political party, would listen to his complaints. Congress has handed him over, gagged and helpless, to the hands of ignorant, drunken and brutal soldiers. Neither on its floor, nor in any city of the Union, could his advocate obtain a hearing. Money has been poured out like water to feed and educate the Indian, of which one dollar in ten may have found its way to supply liis needs, or pay the debts we owed him. To show the folly of our method, examine the south side of the great lakes, and you will find in every thirty miles between Plymouth and Omaha the scene of an Indian massacre. And since 1789 we have spent about one thou- sand million of dollars in dealing with the Indians. Meanwhile, under British rule, on the north of tliose same lakes, there has been no Indian outbreak, worth naming, for a hundred years, and hardly one hundred thousand dollars have been spent directly on the Indians of Canada. What is the solution of tliis astounding riddle? This, and none other. England gathers her Indian tribes, like ordinary citizens, within the girth of her usuol laws. If injured, they complain, like other men, to a justice of the peace, not to a camp cap- tain. If offenders, they are arraigned before such a justice, or some superior court. Complaint, indictment, evidence, trial, sentence, are all after the old Saxon pattern. With us martial law, or no law at all, is their portion ; no civil rights, no right to property that a white man is bound to respect. Of course quarrel, war, expense, ojipression, robbery, resistance, like begetting like, and degradation of the Indian even to the level of the frontiersman 8 IV INTRODCCTIOX. who would plundor him, liavc been the result of fuch a methnd. If sucli a rcHult wcri' hinKular, if our case stood alone, we *hould rcci-ivc tiic iiitiii'ss cur.st'M of iiiiinkind. I)ut tlio same result lia« almost always followed the con- tact of the civilized and the xuvagc nian. General Grant's recommendation of a policT which would acknowledge tho Indian as a citizen, is tho first step in our Intliao hbtory which gives us any claim to be considered a Christian people. The hostility it has met shows tho fearful demoralization of our press and political parties. Statesmanship, good sense and justice, even from a chief ma^gtrate can k:^rdly obtain a hearing when they relate to sucli lon^r-time victims of popular hate and pil- lage as our Indian tribes. Some few men in times past hare tried to stem this hideous current of national indiflerence and injustice. Some men do now try. Prominent among these is the author of this rolumo. Thirty j'cars of practi- cal experience in dealing with Indians while he represented the Government in different offices ; long and familiar acquaintance with their genius, moods, habits and capabilities, enable and entitle him to testify in tliis msc. T , hav- ing suffered, at the hands of Indians, all that man can sufior and still live, ho should yet lift up a voice, snatched almost miraculously from tho grave, to claim for them, nevertheless, the treatment of rs^n^ of citizens, is a marvellous instance of fidelity to conviction against ererj- temptation and injury. Bear- ing all over his person the scars of nearly fatil wounds received from Indians, he still advocates Grant's policy. FamilL'U' witli the Indian tribes, and per- sonally acquainted with their chiefs, with the old and young, men and women, their sports and faith, their history and aspirations, their education and capac- ity, their songs, amusements, legends, business. lo«e8 and hates, liis descrip- tions lack no element of a faithful portrait : while his lightest illustrations have always beneath the surface a meaning which cannot fail to arrest the attention of the American people, and enable them to understand this national problem. Never before have we had just such a witness on the stand. Bril- liant and grapliic in description, and exceedingly happy in his choice of topics, he gives us pages startling and interesting as a ujreL Wliilc his appeals stir tho heart like a clarion, ho still keeps cautiously to sober fact ; and every statement, tho most seemingly incredible, is based on more than sufficient evidence. 7 co'i.imend this book io the puUie — study it not only as accurate and striking in its pictures of Indian life, but as profoundly interesting to every student of human nature, — the picture of a race fast fading away and melting into white men's ways. His contribution to the solution of one of the most puzzling problems of American statesmanship is invaluable. Destined no doubt to provoke bitter criticism, I feel sure his views and statements will bear tho amplest investigation. His volume will contribute largely to vindi- cate tho President's policy, and to enable, while it disposes, the American people to understand and do justice to our natiTe tribes. (Signed,) WENDELL PHILLIPS. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. IIox. A. n. Mr.ACUAM Cex. Cxyttr Doctor Toomas The Lose Ixoiax Sextixel The RiLL-Doo Traur Fareweli. to Oxeatta The Bibth-flace of Indian T, Graxd Uocxd AGEy-v The Uobse Race Capt. Jack ToBET ASD Riddle MODOCS ox the WAIt-l-ATII Wl-XE-ILUI (ToBET) . ASSASSIXATIOX SCEXE BrIXGIX<> IX THE WOCXDED Warm Sfrixg Ixdiax Pickets SCHOXCHIX AXD JaCK IX C'lIAIXS BosTox Charlet Black Jim SCAR-FACE ChAELET . IJ8 r.vui. Frnntisj'iece. 111 llli 195 203 017 401 445 403 529 5G9 .'.SO (140 051 057 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. EARLY REMINISCENCES-POW-E-SHIEK'S BAND. The Author'8 Fears and Hopes — A Bit of Personal History — Two Great Wrongs — Early Reflections — Removal of Pow-e-siiiek's Band in 1844 — The Lava Beds — Gen. Canby and Dr. Thomas referred to — Even-handed Justice — Captain of an Ox Team — Sad Scene Preparatory to Pow-e-shiek's Departure — The White Man Wanted It — It is a Fair Business Transaction — A Gloomy Picture — Gov- ernment Officials Move Slow — (The Lone Indian Sentinel) — A Fright in Camp — The Welcome — Cupid's Antics — An Indian Maid- en's Ball Dress — The Squaw's Duties — Tlie Indian'b Privileges — End of the Journey — The Return -r- The Conscientious Church Member — Throngs of Emigrants — A Great Contrast and a Glowing Picture — Y xnkee Boys and Western Girls — A Strange Mixture — The People of Iowa — The Nation's Perfidy towards the Savage PAQB CHAPTER II. OVERLAND— BLOOD FOR BLOOD. Pow-e-shiek Visits his Old Home — His Recognition of the Writer — He Spends the Winter — His Character — The Ceremonial Smoke, and the Writer's Mistake — Pow-e-shiek's Return — ** Van," the Indian Pony — Crossing the Plains — Indian Depredations — What Pro- vokes Them — The Murdered Indian — The Loaned Rifle — Arrest- ing Indians on "General Principles" — They are Slain on "Gen- eral Principles," also — The Butchery of Indian Women and Chil- dren — The Bloody Deeds of White Men — The Indian's Revenge . 24 CHAPTER III. INDIANS AND MINERS. Two Letters — Why they are Introduced — Lee's Encampment — Gold Fields of Idaho and Eastern Oregjn, in 18C3 — Tides of Adven- turers — Means of Transportation — Umatilla City — The Saddle Train — The "Kitchen Mule" — Walker's Lino — Novel Method of Securing Ponies — Indians Hunting Lost Horses — Sublime Mountain Scenery — Punch and Judy — A Stalwart Son of Erin — vin CONTENTS. PAGE lie Buys un Indian Pony — His Rich Experience Tiierewith — A Scene Wortliy of the Pencil of a Bierstadt — " Riding a Bottle " — Tlie Indian's Friends Denounced — Indian Integrity — Striking Examples — Tin-tin-mit-si, the Rich Old Indian Chief— "Why White Men are Fools" 32 CHAPTER IV. DIAMOND-CUT-DIAMOND. Treaty with the Government — The Annual Visits — Indians and Whis- key — The White Man's Advantage, and the Indian's Privilege — Punishment for Intoxication — Indian " Muck-a-muck " — Tho Salmon and their Haunts — Ludicrous Scenes — Financial Re- venge — The Oregon Lawyer's Horseback Ride — He is Sadly De- moralized — His Scripture Quotations — Fourtli of July Celebra- tion — Disappointed Spouters — Homli's Sarcastic Speech — His Eloquence and His Resolve — A Real Change — Tiireo Tribes Unite — A Fair Treaty — Umatilla Reservation — Gorgeous De- scription of an Earthly Paradise — Homli's Return . . . . 45 CHAPTER V. POLICIES ON TRIAL—" ONEATTA." The Author Appointed Superintendent of Indian Affairs — Not a Politi- cal Friend of President Johnson — An Indian "Agency" — De- scription of a Hunting-Ground — Shipwrecks — Signal Fires — Why they are Built — A Tradition — Perilous Adventure of Two Chief- tains — A " Big Canoe " Saved from Wreck — They are Rewarded with many Curious Gifts — Tiie Squaw's Surprise — The Pappoose's Fears — The Chase — Squaws Disrobed — A Good Time Gen- erally — The Chiefs Fright — He is Reassured — Comes Alongside the Siiip — Love at First Sight — A Battle without the War-whoop — The Chief Boards tlie Ship — The Scene on Deck — The Ciiief 's Departure — The Lovers, Oneatta and Theodore — The Chief's Consent — The Dance — The Lover's Conquest — Tlie Betrothal — The Ship Ready to Depart — Tlie Marriage on Board — Farewell to Oneatta 57 CHAPTER VI. SENATORIAL BRAINS BEATEN BY SAVAGE MUSCLE — PLEAS- ANT WAY OF PAYING PENALTIES. The Legend in the Last Chapter — Why it is Introduced — Siletz Agency — Oyster Beds and Timber Lands — The same " Old Story " CONTENTS. IX PAOB PAOE 32 45 Rehearsed — The Boat Race — Indian vs. United States Senator — The Horse Race — Congressional Avoirdupois — Crossing the Si- letz River — Civilized Indians — A Rare Scene — Euclire Bill — Biting off Heads — The Indian School— Too-toot-na— His "Wife Jinncy — Her Financial Skill — Her Husband's Hope — Doomed to Disappointment — Indian Court Day — Hickory Clubs vs. Black- stone — The Attendants at Court — Tlio First Case — A "Woman's Quarrel — Appropriating a Horse — "Wounded Honor — An Agree- able Penalty — The Lone Chief — Indian Bashfulness — The Agent's Fears — Old Joshua Speaks — Ilis Eloquence — His Request is Granted — Religious Influences — A Language of One Hundred Words — Christianity and Common Sense — The Dialogue — Logs on Indian Graves — "Why Placed there — Religions of the Indians Discussed Further On — Indian Agent Ben Simpson — His Re- port — He Arraigns the Government — Joel Palner's Report — The Political Preacher and the Christian Agent — The Treachery of the Former — A Plea for the Silctz Indians — Case "White Men and a Cruel Government — The Sad Story Repi atcd — A Ray of Hope — Alsea Agency — The Alsea Indians — Their Character Peaceable and therefore Neglected — Crime Rewarded by the Gov- ernment — Virtue Punished — The Destiny of the Alsea Tribe — A Stern Rebuke and a Prophecy 74 's Va ell 57 CHAPTEE YII. PHIL SHERIDAN'S OLD IIOJIE— WHAT A CABIN COST. Grand Round Agency — Indian Houses — Cost of a Bo.ard — Gen. Phil Sheridan — A Romance of a Young Chief — Tlie Family from Mis- souri — The Red-skinned Archer and Pale-face Gunner — Their Trial of Skill — Fight with the Grizzly — The Wounded Hunter — The "Medicine Man" — Santiam and the Pale-faced Maiden — The Disappointment — Faithful to Her "Vows — Description of the Valley Resumed — The Writer's First Visit — The Indians Tliere — Their Progress in Civilization — Ceremonious Hand-shaking — Tho Writer's Remarks — Replies by Joe Ilutchins .and Louis Neposa — A Peculiarity of Indian Eloquence — Speeches by Black Tom and Solomon Riggs — The Writer's Speech — Its Effect — Wapto Davis's Flain Talk — Joe Ilutchins' Sarcasm — Result of the Council . . 101 •LEAS- tz CHAPTER Till. STOPPING THE SURVEY— WHY. Official Correspondence — What the Indians 7)Teed — Important Ques- tions Asked — Commissioner Parker's Reply. (See Appendix) — CONTENTS. PAGIi The Mills Built — Indian Laborers — A Misunderstanding — Tlie Indian's Riglits — Tliey are Wronged — A Protest — Interesting Letter Relating to Allotment of Lands. (See Appendix) — Singu- lar Request — Reason for It — An Aet of Justice — Tlio Indian Parade — Tlie Indian's Speech in Englisli — Tlio Writer's Reply — Wapto Speaks — Catholics rs. Methodists — Father Waller — An Episode — Leander and Lucy — Love and Law — Old and New — The usual Course cf True Love — JIarriage Ceremony — No Ki'^s- ing — The Dance — Tlie Methodist Pastor and the Priest — Tho Catholics Liberal (?) — A Stupid Preacher — Common Sense in Religion — ^ndian Comments — Defective Schools — Unwritten History of Grand Round Agency — Old and Forsaken 120 CIIAPTEE IX. THE AGED PAIR — BIRTHPLACE OF LEGENDS. The Scene Changes — The River Steamer — Tho Railroad — The Bat- tle Ground — Causes of War and Slaughter — A Legend of the Cascades — Battles — Divine Interpositions — Soul-stirring Tra- ditions — The AVaiting Dead — Sacrilegious Hunters — NcNulty, the Noble Captain — Mount Tlood — Mount Adams — Sublime Scenery — The Dalles — The Salmon Fishery — Its Value — Hab- its of the Salmon — Commencement of tho Fishing Scenery — Indian Superstition — Methods of Catching and Curing Salmon . 138 CHAPTER X. DANGEROUS PLACE FOR SINNERS. Warm Spring Agency — Indians in Treaty Council — Intimidated by Government Troops — Pledges Unfulfilled — John Mission and Billy Chinook — They become Converts to Christianity — Treachery of the Government — AVhy? because the Indians are Peaceable — Journey to the Agency Continued — Crossing the Stream — Fire and Brimstone — A Perilous Descent — The Author's Report — This Agency a Fraud — Climate of Warm Springs — Character of the Indians Here — The Two Treaties — The Indians Declare they were Deceived — A Great Injustice — Unfitness of the Warm Spring Agency — Captain John Smith — His Character — His Com- munication — A Careful Perusal Urged 150 CHAPTER XI. THE PARSON BROWNLOW OF THE INDIAN SERVICE. Captain Smith's Letter — His Opinion of Catholics — The Indian Coun- cil—An Indian Leads in Prayer — Appearance of this Council — It CONTEXTS. XI was liko a Methodist Revival Scone — The Head Chiefs Speech — lie abjures Polygamy — The Autlior's lleply — Marie wants to Change liis Name — lie selects the Name of Jleacliam — Marks' Second 'Wife, Matola — Her Speech — John Mission speaks — Speech of Billy Chinoolc — Iland-shalvin^ anil Enrollinij Names — Pi-a-noose — His Speech — Two Kinds of Indians on this Agency — The Trial Policy of the Government ICO CHAPTER XII. KO PLACE LIKE HOME — SQUAWS IN HOOPS AND CHIGNONS. Umatilla Agency — The Council — Its Object — The Purchase by the Government of the Eeservation — A. B. Meaehani's Speech — Many Indian Speeches (See Appendix, Chap. XII.) — The Council Fairly Conducted — Religion of the Umatilla Indians — AVealth a Curse to Them — They Take the First Prizes — They are Haughty, Proud and Intraci.vblo — "Susan," the ^yido^v — Her "Recep- tions " — The Dance — "Women's Rights — Susan a Good Catholic. 181 CHAPTER XIII. "IIOW-LISH-WAMPO," KING OF THE TURF CRAWLS. A DEAD THING Indian Sportsman — Ilow-lish-wampo, tho Famous Horseman — Pat and the Indians Once ilore — French Louie, the Confident Sport — He is Beaten and Fleeced — Returns on Ponies Given in Charity — Joe Crabb and Ilis Important Race-Horse — His Groomsmen and Attendants — Skirmishing Preparatory to tho Great Race — Joe Crabb is Shrewd — The Wild Indian is Shrewder — Indian Method of Training Horses — Intense '' -est in the Race — Throngs of Visitors — Holding the Stakes — Indian Honor — Indians not Always Stoical — They are Enthusiastic Gamblers — Never Betray their Emotions — Consummate Strategy of Indian "Sports" — Tho Ap- pearance of the two Race-Horses — Preliminary Manoeuvres — Tho Start — The Indian Horse Ahead — Wild Excitement — The Fast- est Time on Record— All Good Indians Three Feet Under Ground — Fine Opportunity for Sport — Challenge to Commodore Vanderbilt, Rooert Bonner, Rev. W. II. II. Murray, or Any Other J/aw— Habits of the Indian Horses — The Cayuso Horse — An In- dian Train — The Squaw's Outfit — Indian Etiquette — Indian Wives who Want to be Widows —Indian Maidens — Many of the Umatillas Civilized — Tho Prospect of the Umatillas 185 zn CONTENTS. CHAPTEE XIY. SNAKE WAR — FIGHTING THE DEVIL WITH FIRE. The Snake War — Alleged Cause of the War — Manner of Warfare — Charley Winslow and Nathan Dixon — II. C. Scott and Family, and Wheeler, all Victims of the War — Eighty Chinamen Murdered — Indians Butchered in Turn — Jeff Standiford and His Band of But- chers — Stone Bullets and Iron Slugs — The Art of Killing Indians — Joaquin INIiller — General Lcc — Stonewall Jackson — General Grant — Capture of the Daugliter of a "Warm Spring" Chief — General Crook calls for Indian Scouts — The Bounty Offered — The McKay Brothers — A White Cliief Fights like a Savage — Privilege of Scalping Granted— On the War Path —The Last Buttle —The Surrender — A Pile of Scalps — Snake Ilair Playing Switch for White Ladies — Visit to Snake Country — After a Long Leap Com ing Out Smiling — Castle Rock — Old Castle of Jay Cook — Pant- ing Charger — A Game Chicken in the River — Adams Laughing and Weeping — A Real Native American — In a Basket — In Col- lege — Baking Bread in a Frying Pan — Jimmy Kane the Indian Cook — Making Mathematical Calculations — The Test — Season- ing tlie Supper — Clothes Don't make the Man — General Crook under a Slouch Ilat — Tah-homo and Ka-ko-na — Transmutation — Fine Feathers — Arrival at Camp Harney 207 CHAPTER XV. THE COUNCIL WITH THE SNAKE INDIANS — O-CHE-0. A Camp Scene — Peace Council with the Snake Indians — Announcing the Presence of Ka-ko-na — Their Representations — Colonel Otis — Old Winnemucca Sent For — A Bloodthirsty Chief — His Wives — Their Savage Mode of Life — Indian Women Socially — Result of the Council — Both Parties Came Armed — The Medi- cine Man — A White and Red Doctor Disagree — A Warning- Incantation of a Medicine Man — Strange and Cruel Treatment of the Sick — "Big Foot" — A Beautiful Custom — The Fire Tele- graph — Spiritualism — 0-Che-O and Allen Diivid — A Peaceful Talk in Seven Tongues — The Old Squaw and Her Heartless Sons — A Gloomy Picture of Savage Life — The Snakes' Home — Their Future a Problem — Climate of this Region — Enemies to — Novel Method of Capturing them — Crickets for Food — A Cricket Press — Warriors who Eat tiieir Foes — An Embryo Indian War — How it Can be Avoided — Tah-home and Ka-ko-na in Tribulation — Power of Medicine Men — Stronger tJian love — Wild Men Shrewd CONTENTS. XIII PAGE In Such Matters — ITcart-Broken Squaw — Proposition to Elope — Fear of Pursuit — No Compromise 224 CHAPTER XYI. OVER THE FALLS — FIRST ELECTION. Resuming the Journey — Klamath Reservation — Saying Prayers — The Accident — Value of a Dead Mule — Different Trihos on tho Reservation — Klamaths never Enemies of the 'Wliites — Lindsey Applegate — The First Election — White Jlen Imitated — The Result — Allen David Elected Chief — His Cliaracter — He is an Orator of Great Power — Preparation for the " Big Talk" — Tho Scenes in the Council — The Big Camp Fire — Tah-home and Ka- ko-na in Great Distress — Indian Strategy Winked at l)y an Offi- cer — It Succeeds — The Lovers in a Snow-storm — Outwitted ami Glad of It — Allen David Opens the Council — His Thrilling Speech — The Author's Official Report — Another Speech from tho Red-skinned Orator — Tiie Author's Reply — Joe Hood — Various Speeches Bearing on the Indian Question — Official Correspond- ence — Address to the Klamath Indians — Their Attention — Tho Indian Allen David — His Wonderful Eloquence — Extracts — Tho Author's Reply — Speech of Joe Hood — The Reconciliation — The Preparation — The Speeches of Allen David and Captain Jack — The Autlior's Views of Thieving Officials — An Appeal for Justice — Tho Request of Klamaths 245 CHAPTER XYII. KLAMATH COURT — ELOPEMENT EXTRAORDINARY. Wife Rohbery — Divorce made Easy — Names of Uniformed Officers Withheld — Wliy — Bio's Searcliing Questions — The Law One- sided—Little Sally — Tlie New Court — A Novel Scene — Tlie Court Opened— Sally's Complaint — Her Husband's Views — Tlie Baby's Heart half his and half his Wife's — Sally and her Husband Want to bo Re- married — The Bride's Outfit- A Serious Ceremony — A Pledge that White Men don't Take — Indian Modesty — Wlio Kissed the Bride — Case Number Two — Tlie Sentence — Tho Dance — Indian Theatre ~ The Actor — A Wild, Exciting Play — Tiie Indian's Dramatic Power 262 XIV COXTENT8. CHAPTER XYIII. OMELETS AND AKROWS — BIG STEAM-BOILERS. PAGE Imlinn Games — Long John, the Gambler — The Wocus Fiehls — How it is rrepiircd for Fooil — E;;ging and Fishing — A Bird's Nest Described — Trout-fishinj; — Various Kinds of Trout — Game — Bijj Klamath Lake — Linkllivcr— Nature's Steam-power — The Country of the Blodocs — A Grand Scene — Bound for the Homo of Captain Jack 279 CHAPTER XIX. MODOC BLOOD UNDER A FLAG OF TRUCE — SEED SOWN TWENTY YEARS BEFORE A HARVEST. The Modoc War — The Origin of the Modocs — The La-la-kas — The Grciit Indian Rebellion and the American Revolution — The Offlco of Indian Cliief — Captain Jack — Form of Government among Indian Tribes — Tiie Home of the Modocs — Why Modocas Rebelled — The Modocs in 184G — Schonchin — Tlie Fatlicr of Ca])tain Jack — Ac- count of the Latter — Cruelties Perpetrated oy the Modocs — Causes of the First Jlodoc Wars — Two Sides of the Question — Chief Schon- chin's Reason for Killing White Men — The " Bon Wright " Massa- cre — Slaughter of Emigrants — Horrible Cruelties — The Squaw's Jealousy — Ben Wright — Ills Character — His Infimous Act of Treachery — Treaty with the Modocs in 18G4 — Why it was not kept by Captain Jack — The Oregon Superintendent makes a Treaty — It is now being Ratified -^ Captain Jack understood tho Treaty — He Rel)el3 — Says he was Deceivcid — Attempt to Force him to return to the Reservation — His Insulting Language — Lost River — A Fish Story — Difficulties in the way of meeting Captain Jack 289 CHAPTER XX. BLUE EYES AND BLACK ONES — TOBEY RIDDLE. Captain Jack's Apology — He Makes a Camp for his Visitors — The Modoc Women not Slaves like other Indian Women — Sage Brush — The Modocs would not Eat First — The Reason — Tobcy and Frank Riddle — Riddle's Romantic Career — Truth Stranger than Fiction — He Discards his First Love — Ilis Indian Wife — They act a part in his Story — Captain Jack's Falsehood Exposed — The Government Appropriations — Captain Jack Quibbles but CONTENTS. XV PAOK Yields — lie is Overruled by tlie Medicine Man — A Critical Moment — Indian Vocabularies — Tobcy's Good Sense and Loyalty — Kiddle and Tobcy Avert a Scene of Dlood — Mr. Meachaui's Bold Speech to Captain Jack — The Strategy of Meachatu's Party — Two Powers Invoked — Kepresentalives of Elijah and Aliab —The Sol- diers wlio are sent for do not Kcspond as Ordered — They, too, are under the Influence of tbiclr that their beaux never have cause to say, " That s too thin." The boys themselves paint in real genume paint, 14 WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 'tip. I 1 i1' not moustaches alone, but eye-brows, cheeks, and hair. They wore leathers, too, because they thought that feathers were good things to have at a round dance; and they followed nature, and relieved the dusky maidens of seeming violation of nature's plain intention. As I shall treat under the head of amusement the dances of Indians more at length, I only remark, in this connection, that the dance on this occnsion, while it was a real "round dance," diffared somt v' ^rom round dances of more high-toned people in , , eral ways, and I am not sure it was not without advan- tage in point of accommodation to the finer feelings of discreet mammas, or envious '' wall-flowers.'' At all events, as I have said on former pages, the whole set formed in one circle, with close rank, facing always to the front, and enlarged as the number of the dancers grew, or contracted as they retired; but each one going forward and keeping time with feet and hands to the music, which was low and slow at first, with short step, increasing the music and the motion as they became excited, until the air grew tremulous with the sounds, rising higher and wilder, more and more exciting, until the lookers-on would catch the inspiration and join the festive ring; even old men, who at first had felt they could not spare dignity or muscle either, would lay aside their blankets until they had lived over again the fiery scenes of younger days, by rushing into the magnetic cordon, and, with re- called youth, forget all else, save the soul-storming fury of the hour, sweetened with the charm of exult- ant joy, over age and passing years. And thus the dance went on, until at last by degrees WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 15 the dancers hnd reached an altitude of happmess which burst forth in simultaneous shout of music's eloquence, complete by higher notes of human voice drawn out to fullest length. The dance was over, and the people went away in groups of twos and threes. The maidens, skipping home to the paternal lodge without lingering over swinging gates, or waiting for answering maids to ringing bells, crept softly in, not waking their mammas up to take off for them their lengthened trails, but perhaps with wildly beating hearts from the dance to dream-land. The young braves gathered their scarlet blankets around them, and in couples or threes, laughing as boys will do at silly jest of awkward maid or swain, went where "tired ^Nature's sweet restorer" would keep promise and let them live over again the en- chanting scenes of the evening, and thus with nega- tive and photograph would /eeZ the picture of youth their own. The older men, whose folly had led them to display contempt for age, went boldly home to lodge where the tired squaws had long since yielded to exhausted nature, and were oblivious to the frolics of their liege lords. Mrs. Squaw had no rights that a brave was bound to respect. It was her business to carry wood, build lodges, saddle his horse, and lash the pappoose in the basket, and do all other drudgery. It was Ids to wear the gayest blanket, the vennilion paint, and eagle-feathers, and ride the best horses, have a good time generally, and whip his squaws when drunk 16 WIGWAM AND WARPATH. or angry; and it was nobody's business to question him. lie was a man. Now, if my reader has failed to see the picture I have drawn of Indian dances, I promise you that, be- fore our journey is ended, I will try again a similar scene, where the music of tall pine-trees and tum- bling torrents from hoary mountains will give my pen- cil brighter hues and my hand a steadier, finer touch. The arrival of our train at the camp of Kisk-ke- kosh called out whatever of finery had not been on exhibition with the welcoming party who had come out to meet us. And when the sun had gone down behind the Iowa prairies the dances were repeated on a larger scale. The following day we were paid off and signed the vouchers. Don't know that it was intended; don't know that it was not; but I do remember that we were allowed the same number of days in which to return that we had occupied in going out, although on our homeward journey we passed each day two or three ca'T»^;s made on the outward journey. I ven- tured to make some remark on the subject, suggest- ing the injustice of taking pay for more time than was required for us to reach home, and a nice kind of a churchman, one who could drive oxen without swearing, said in reply, "Boys should be seen and not heard, you little fool ! " He snubbed me then, but I never forgot the deep, earnest resolve I made to thrash him for this insult when ^^I got to he a man.'''' But, poor fellow, he went years ago where boys may be heard as well as seen, and I forgive him. We met the rushing crowds who were going to the 'WuliHirill WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 17 "New Purchase"; so eager, indeed, that, like gi'eedy vultures which circle round a dying charger and then alight upon some eminence near, or poise them- selves in mid air, impatient for his death, sometimes swoop down upon him before his heart has ceased to beat. So had these emigrants encamped along the fron- tier-line, impatient for the hour when the red man should pull down his wigwam, put out his council- fires, collect his squaws, his pappooses, and his ponies, and turn his back upon the civilization they were bringing to take the place of these untamed and sav- age ceremonies. "While the council-fire was dying out, another was being kindled whose ruddy light was to illuminate the faces, and warm the hands of those who, following the westward star of empire, had come to inherit the land, and build altars whcrefrom should go up thanks to Ilim who smiled when he cre- ated the "beautiful valley" of the Iowa. How changed the scene! Then the gray smoke from Indian lodge rose slowly up and floated leis- urely away. !Now from furnace-blast it bursts out in volume black, and settles down over foundry and farm, city and town, unless, indeed, the Great Spirit sends fierce tempests, as an omen of his wrath, at the sacrilege done to the red man's home. Then the forest stood entire, like harp-strings whereon the Great Spirit might utter tones to soothe their stormy souls, or rouse them to deeds in vindication of rights he had bequeathed. Now they live only in part, the other part decay- ing, while groaning under the pressure of the iron heel of power. 18 WiaWAM AND WARPATH. I : fe Bearing no part in sweet sounds, unless indeed it be sweet to hear the iron horse, with curling breath, proclaiming the advance of legions that worship daily at Mammon's shrine, or bearing forward still further westward the enterprising men and women who are to work for other lands a transformation great as they have wrought for this. Then on the bosom of the river the red man's chil- dren might play in light canoe, or sportive dive, to catch the mimic stars that seemed to live beneath its flow, to light the homes of finny tribes who peopled then its cryst d chambers. ^oiVf it is turgid and slow, and pent with obstruc- tions to make it flow in channels where its power is wanted to complete the wreck of forests that once had made it cool, fit beverage for nature's children, or is muddied with the noisy wheels of commerce, strug- gling to rob the once haj)py home of Pow-e-shiek, of the charms and richness of soil that nature's God had given. •The prairies, too, at that time, were like a shoreless sea when, half in anger, the winds resist the ebb or flow of its tides; or they may be likened to the clouds, which seem to be mirrored on their waving surface, sporting in the summer air, or, at the com- mand of the Great Spirit, hurry to join some gather- ing tempest, where He speaks in tones of thunder, as if to X ebuke the people for their crimes. "Where once the wild deer roamed at will is en- livened now by the welcome call of lowing herds of tamer kind. The waving grass, and fragrant flowers, too, gave way to blooming maize of finer mould. WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 19 mg [m- ler- as 311- lof Lve 'W The old trails have been buried like the feet that made them, beneath the upturned sod. And now, while I am writing, this lovely valley rings out a chant of praise to God, for his benefi- cence, instead of the weird wild song of Pow-e-shiek and his people at their return from crusades against their enemies. Who shall say the change that time and civilization have wrought, have not brought nearer the hour, "When man, no more an abject thing, shall from the sleep of ages spring," and be what God designed him, "pure and free? '* !No one, however deeply he may have drank from the fount of justice and right, can fail to see, in the transformation wrought on this fair land, the hand of Him whose finger points out the destiny of his peculiar people, and yearly gives token of his appro- bation, by the return of seasons, bringing rich reward to the hands of those whom he has called to perform the wonders of which I write, in compensation for the hardships they endured, while the transit was being made from the perfection of untamed life to the higher state of civilization. While we praise Ilim who overrules all, we cannot fail to honor His instrumentalities. The brave pioneers, leaving old homes in other lands to find new ones in this, have made sacrifices of kindred, family ties, and early associations, at the be- hest of some stern nece&,sity (it may be growing out of bankruptcy of business, though not of pride and honor, or manly character), or ambition to be peers among their fellows. Or, mayhap, the change was made by promptings r I I' i 'If ■^': m m I fiO WIGWA3£ AND WARPATH. of parental love for children whose prospects in life might be made better thereby, and the family unity still preserved by locating lands in close proximity, where from his home the father might by some well- known signal call his children all around him. Where the faithful watch-dog's warning was echoed in every yard, aiid thus gave information of passing events worthy of his attention enacting in the neigh- borhood. Where the smoke from cabin chimneys high arose, mingled in mid air, and died away in peaceful brotherhood. Where the blended prayer of parent and child might go up in joint procession from the school-house-churches through the shining trees that answered well for steeples then, or passing through clouds to Him who had made so many little groves, where homes might be made and prepared the most beautiful spots on earth for final resting- place, where each, as the journey of life should be over, might be laid away by kindred hands, far from the hurrying, noisy crowds, who rush madly along, or stop only to envy the dead the ground they occupy, and speculate how much filthy lucre each sepulchre is worth. Others went to the new country with downy cheeks of youth, and others still with full-grown beards, who were fired with high ambition to make name, fame, home, and fortune, carrying underneath their sombre hats bright ideas and wonderful possibilities, with hearts full of manly purposes, beating quickly at the mention of mother's name or father's pride, sister's prayer or brother's love. WIOWAM AND WARPATH. 21 And with all these to buoy them up, would build homes on gentle slope, or in shady grove, and thus become by slow degrees "one among us." I was with the first who went to this new country, and I know whereof I write. I Iniow more than I have told, or will tell, lest by accident I betray the petty jealousies that cropped out; when Yankee-boys, forgetting the girls they left behind them, would pay more attention to our western girls than was agree- able to " us boys." Others there were who had followed the retreating footsteps of the Indians. These were connecting links between two kinds of life, savage and civilized. Good enough people in the:r way, but they could not bear the hum of machinery, or the glitter of church - spires, because the first drove back the wild game, and the devotees who worshipped beneath the second, Ibrbade the exercise of careless and wicked noises mingling with songs of praise. A few, perhaps, had fled from other States to avoid the consequences of technical legal constructions which would sadly interfere with their unpuritanical ways. But these were not numerous. The early settlers, taken all in all, possessed many virtues and qualifications that entitled them to the honor which worthy actions and noble deeds guarantee to those who do them. They had come from widely different birth-lands, and brought with them habits that had made up their lives; and though each may have felt sure their own was the better way, they soon learned that honest people may dift'cr and still be honest. And to govern themselves accordingly, each yielded, without sacrifice of principle, their hereditary whims 22 WIOWAM AXD WAllPATn. and i)o('uliar ways, anil left the weightier matters of orlhodoxy or lioterodoxy to be argued by those who had nothing better with which to occupy their time than to mnddle their own and other people's brains willi abstrnsc thcincs. '^rhc "early settlers" were eminently practical, and withal successful in moulding out of the heterogene- ous mass of whims and prejudices a common public scntiuient, acceptable to all, or nearly so. And thus- they grew, not only in numbers but in wealth, power,. inicHi'»'ence, and i)atriotism, until to-day there maybe found on the once happy home of Pow-e-shiek a peo- ple rivalling those of any other State, surpassing many of them an that greatest and noblest of all vir- tues, "love for your neighbor." No people in all this grand republic furnished truer or biaver men for the holocaust of blood required to reconsecrate the soil of America to freedom and jus- tice than those whose homes are built on the ruins of Pow-c-shiek's early hunting-grounds. Proud as the record may be, it shall yet glow with names written by an almost supernal fire, that warms into life the immortal thought of poets, and the burning eloquence of orators. We are proud of the record of the past, and cher- ish bright hopes of the future. But with all our pati'iotic exultations, memory of Pow-e-shiek's sacri- fices comes up to mingle sadness with our joy. Sad- ness, not the offspring of reproach of conscience for unfair treatment to him or his people by those who came after he had gone at the invitation of the Govern- ment, but sadness because he and his people could not enjoy what other races always have, the privilege WIOWAM AND WARPATH. 18 of a higher civilization ; sadness, because, while our gates are thrown wide open and over them is written in almost every tongue known among nations, "Come share our country and our government with us," it was closed behind him and his race, and over those words painted, in characters which he understood, "Begone!" w I ; -'! i , f) : W V ■ ■ V I: ■; '1 1 • ■ J i ■ 1 ! ■ M ! 1 .' t 1 ' i M ; l| i 1 : f ! "'■'. ■ i ■ i 1 i " CHAPTER II. OVERLAND: BLOOD FOB BLOOD. In 184:6 Pow-e-shiek came with his band to visit his old home. We were " early settlers " then, and had built our cabins on the sloping sides of a bluff overlooking ihe valley below. From this outpost we descried the bands of piebald ponies and then the curling smoke, and next the poles of his wick-e-i\ps {hmses) ; and soon we saw Pow-e-shiek coming to mr \«j known his wish that he might be permitted to pastm'c his stock on the fields which we had already robbed of corn. The recognition in me of one who had assisted in removing his people seemed to sur- prise and please him, and for a moment hia eye lit up as if some fond realit}- of the past had revived the friendship that had gruwn out of my sympathy for him in his dark hour of departure from his home. And when I said, " This is my father and ray mother, these my sisters and my brothers, and this place is our home," he gave to the welcoming hands a friendly grasp in evidence of his good intentions, and then assured us that no trouble on his part should grow out of his coming, and that, if his young men should do any dishonest acts, he would punish them; that he had come back to spend the w nter once again near his haunts of olden times, perhaps to kill the deer that he thought white men did not care about since they had so many cattle and swine. We accepted his WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 95 assurance, and believed him to be just what he pre- tended, — a quiet, honest old chief, who would do as he agreed, nor seek excuse for not doing so. The dinner hour had passed, but such as we had my mother set before him, and he did not fail to do full justice to everything upon the table. He made sure that his pappooses should complete what he be- gan by making a clean sweep into one comer of his blanket to bear it to his lodge. After dinner he drew out his pipe, and filling it with Kin-ni-ki-nick (to- bacco), and lighting it with a coal of fire, he first sought to propitiate the Great Spirit by offering up to him the first puff of smoke; next the devil, by blowing the smoke downward, and saved the third for himself; and after that he offered to the fourth person in his calendar, my father, the j)nvilege of expressing his approval. But, as he was not a smoker himself, he passed the pipe to his oldest son, intimating his desire that he should be represented by proxy. I, willing to do his bidding, in friendship for our guest, it may he, or perhaps from other personal motives, soon reduced the Kin-ni-ki-nick to ashes and handed back the empty pipe to Pow-e-shiek. I knew not thnt I had transgressed the rules of politeness until afterwards, when I offered a pipe to our strange-man- nered guest, he, with dignity, drew a puff or two and then passed it back, with an expression of countenance which declared unmistakably that it was meant for rei)roof. If I felt resentment for a moment that a savage should presume to teach me manners, I do not feel that I was the only one who might be greatly bene- fited by taking lessons of unsophisticated men and 26 WIGWAM AND WARPATH. '. I women of other than white blood ; not alone in simple politeness, but also in regard to right and justice, whose flags of truce are never raised ostensibly to insure protection, but really to intimidate the weak and defenceless, who dared to stand up for the God- given rights to home and country. Pow-e-shiek made preparations to return to his lodge, and we, boy-like, followed him out of the cabin door, and while he was saying good-by he espied a fine large dog that we had, named Yan, though the name did not indicate our politics. Pow- e-shiek proposed to trade a pony for " old Van," and ■v/e were phased at first, because we thought the pony would do to ride after the " breaking team " of dewy triornings in the spring. But when we learned that " Van " was wanted by the chief to furnish the most substantial part of a feast for his people, we de- murred. " Old Van," too, seemed to understand the base use to which he was to be put, and reproached us with sullen side-looks; and the trade wap aban- doned, and would have been forgotten only that Van was ever afterward maddened at the sight of Pow-e- shiek or any of his race. The wmter passed, and our red neighbors had kept their promise, for although neither the granary nor any other building was ever locked, nothing had been missed; and our mutual regard seemed stronger than when the acquaintance was renewed. When spring hfd fully come, Pow-e-shiek, punctual to his promise, broke up his camp and went away. Occasionally, for years afterwards, his people came back to visit; but he no more. ill -e- w I ' i i, ' !' WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 29 Years have passed, and he has joined the great thvong in the happy hunting-grounds. When the gold fever v>'as at its height, in 1850, in company with others I journeyed overland to the new Eldorado. While en route, we heard much of Indians, of their butcheries and cruelties; I think there was good foundation for the stories. Indeed, wo saw so many evidences of their handiwork, in new- made graves and abandoned wagons demolished, that there could be no reasonable doubt of their savage treatment of those who came within their power. While / do not now, never havp, and neve?' will at- tempt to justify their hutclierics, yet it is hut fair that both sides of the story he told. When our party was at " Independence Rock," in 1850, and no Indians had disturbed the passing travellers, near where we were then, we " laid over " a day, and within the time a man came into camp and boasted that he had "knocked over a buck at a dis- tance of a hundred yards," and when the query was made as to the whereabouts of his game he produced a bloody scalp. He gave as an excuse that the In- dians had frightened ar antelope he was trying to kill, and that he shot the Indian while the latter was en- deavoring to get away. Is it unreasonable to suppose that the friends of the murdered Indian, when he came not to the lodge at nightfall, would hunt him up, and that, when his brother or friend .-^aw his scalp- less head, he should avow to avenge his death? Doubtless he did avenge both himself and his tribe, and he may have slain many innocent persons in re- taliation for this foul deed. As to the cause of the Indian troubles on the 1 r 1 1 r ii Hi i hi: I i I I !l 11 i i '1 ! 30 WIOWAJI AND WARPATH. Humbolt river, during the summer of 1850, 1 know nothing. Probably they originated in some lawless act similar to the one above described. In September following I loaned a rifle to a miner who was going out on a prospecting tour. On his return he proposed to buy it, saying that -"it was a good one, he knew, because he tried it on an Indian, shooting from one bluff to another; and," said this civilized white man, " I dropped him into the river, and he went where all gooa Injuns go." LattT in the season two friendly Indians came into the town of "Bidwell's Bar,'* and, although no evidence was produced against them, they were arrested on " general principles," it was said ; and while threats were made of hanging them on " general principles " too, better counsels prevailed, and they were placed in charge of a guard, who were to convey them to *'' Long's Bar," and turn them over to the sheriff to be held for trial. The guard returned in a short time, and reported that the prisoners had " slipped down a bank and were drowned" It was, however, understood that they were killed by the guard " to save expense." Fol- lowing this accident several white men were murdered by Indians, it was said, although the murdered men, it was evident, had met death through other instru- mentality than hows and arrows. A company was raised to go out and punish the offenders. On their return they reported grand suc- cess in finding Indian rancheros, and in the wholesale butchery they had committed. Do you wonder that twenty or thirty white men were riddled lulth arrows within a short time, after such manly conduct, hy the brave butchers of Indian women and children? WIOWAM AND WAEPAXn. 31 know iwless ember going )posed knew, m one e man, lere all ae into ^ridence ited on threats ciples " iaced in lem to eriff to reported d were it they Fol- irdered Id men, instru- I have not at hand the data from which to mention in detail the various Indian wars that harassed the miners of California. Suffice it that they were of frequent occurrence, and, indeed, continued until the mountain bands of Indians were broken up. If the truth could be heard from the lips of both the living and the dead, we should hear many things unpleasant to the ears of white men as well as Indians, and, per- haps, discreditable to both. I doubt not such revela- tion would support the declaration I here make, — that had white men have always been the instigators of the bloody deeds through which so many innocent persons have passed on to the other life. The proofs are not wanting in almost every instance in support of this statement. That the Indian is vin- dictive, is true J that he is brave, cunning, and inhuman to his enemies is also true; but that he is faithful to his compacts, whenever fairly dealt with, is not less trul INDIANS AND MINERS. Walla-Walla, Washinoton Tehbitobt, February 4th, 18C3. Dear Brother {Suisun City, Cal.): — I have found a good country and more business than I can manage alone; come and help me. Better leave your family until you can see for yourself. You may not like it, though I do. Money is plenty, every- thing new, and prices keyed up to old " forty-nine " times. Your brother, H. J. MEACHAM. '^t n H .1 '■■% m I Lke's Emcahfhent, fifxt uiles sodtu of Walla-Walla, ON TOP OP Blub Mocntaik, March 6, 18C3. My dear Wife (Suisun, Cal.): — "Eureka." Come; I am camping in four feet of snow, and cooking meals in a frying-pan, and charging a dollar; selling "slap jacks" two bits each; oats and barley at twelve cents, and hay at ten cents per pound, and other things at same kind of prices; can't supply the demand. Go to William Booth, San Fran- cisco, and tell him to ship you and the children with the goods, to Walla- Walla, Washington Territory, via Portland, Oregon, care Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express. A. B. MEACHAM. WIGWAM AND WARPATH, 33 These two letters are copied here, to cany the reader and the writer over a period of twelve years, leaving behind whatever may have transpired of in- terest to the work now in hand, to be taken up on some other page, in proper connection with kindi'ed subjects of later date. Lee's Encampment is located near the summit of the Blue Mountains in Oregon, on the great highway leading from the Colunil)ia river to the rich gold fields of Idaho and Eastern Oregon. It is fifty miles south of Walla- Walla, and is also one of the out-boundaries of the Umatilla Indian Reservation, occupied by the Walla- Walla, Cayuse and Umatilla Indians. The roads leading out from the several starting- points on the Columl)ia river, to the mines above- mentioned, converge on the Reservation, and, climbing the mountain's brow, on the old "Emigrant trail," cross over to Grand Round valley. During the spring of 18G3, the great tide of miners that flowed inland, to reach the new gold fields, nec- essarily passed through the Reservation, and thence via Lee's Encampment. This circumstance of loca- tion gave abundant opportunity for observation by the writer. Of those who sought fortunes in the mines, I might wa-ite many chapters descriptive of the motley crowds of every shade of color and of character, forming episodes and thrilling adventures. But my purpose in this work would not be subserved by doing so, except such as have bearing on the subject-matter under consideration. Of the thousands who landed at Umatilla City and Walla- AV'alla, en route to the " upper country," few I I'J HI ili ! I I ' ii ■ m V St II I Ml .,1 m 1 *l 34 WIGWAM AND WAUrATII. brought means of transportation overland. There were no stages, no raih'oacls ; and what though Haley & Ish, Stephen Taylor, and many others, advci'tised " saddle trains to leave for the mines every day of the week, at reasonable rates," which were, say, sixty dollars, on ponies that cost perhaps forty dollars; yet there were hundreds that could not get tickets even at those rates. The few who engaged reserved seats were started off on saddle-horses of various grades, under the charge of a " conductor," whose pi'incipal duty was, not to collect fares, but to herd the kiichen mules, — every train had with it one or more animals on whose back the supplies and blankets were carried, — and indicate the camping places by pulling the ropes that loosed the aforesaid kitchens and blankets, when, like other trains, at the pull of the rope, the whole would stop, and not be startled into unnecessary haste by " twenty minutes for dinner " sounded in their ears. One or more nights the camp would be on the Keservation, thus bringing travellers and Indians in contact. I have said that many could not get places, even on the backs of mules, or Cayuse ponies. Such were compelled to take " "Walkers' line," go on foot and carry blankets and " grub " on their backs. The sec- ond night out would find them also on the Reserva- tion, and those who had the wherewith, purchased horses of the Indians; some, perhaps, without consult- mg the owners. I^ot stealing them ! No. A white man would not do so mean a thing ; but ropes are sus- picious things when found in the pack of one of " Walker's " passengers, and if a pony was fool enough jto run his head into a noose, the handiest way to get WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 85 icre alcy Iscd rthc sixty ; yet even seats adcs, icipal ichen umals irried, 1 ropes when, whole r haste their Dn the ans in clear of him was to exchange with some other man of similar misfortune, and tlien it was not stealing in the eyes of honest white men. If the Indian missed his propert}'', and, hunting along the line, found him under a white man, you might suppose he could recover his horse. ]N"ot so, my lord! ^ot so. The white man had proof that he had bought him of some other man, may be an Indian. Such Avas sometimes the case, for I do not believe that all men are honest, white or red; and these red men were not behind the white in sharp practice; and it is safe to say, that those of whom I am w^riting now were peers of those who sought to outwit them. The horses of saddle trains would sometimes " stray away," — often those of freighters, — and, since time was money, and strangers might not understand the " range," the Indians were employed to hunt for the straying animals, and paid liberally if they suc- ceeded; and thus it made the stock of oilier trains restless, and of tan they would run away — and so the business increased, and the Indians grew wealthier, notwithstanding their own sometimes followed off a rope in the hands of white men. The road, along which this stream of miners poured, left the valley of Umatilla on the Reservation, leading up the mountains. Kear the foot of the hill, but with a deep ravine or gulch' intervening, and on another hill, — part really of the valley, though sloping toward the former, — was "The Trading Post,"— Indian's sutler store. 'Twas here that saddle trains and " Walker's line," halted for the night, or " to noon " and rest, after travelling a fourteen-mile " stretch." Tiio "Walker" passengers were already worn out, < I If i |:|,j: ¥h il'f' :i [i : || F '! 'M \ ih 1' 1^' i ill; 1 1 \ 1 1 ■1'-^^ 1 L Li 30 WIOW.VM AXD WARPATH. with heavy packs of picks aiul pans, bottles and blan- kets. The situation ot* the post, with reference to the mountain, was to an observer like standing on the sloping roof of one house and measuring the "pitch" of the one adjoining, making it seem much steeper than it really is. So with this mountain. True, it required a broad upward sweep of vision to take in the height. On the first bench, one mile above, the trains and men seemed to be transformed into dogs and boys. On the second bench, two miles up, they looked still smaller. On the third, three miles up, they very closely resembled Punch and Judy driving a team of poodles. The Indians found here a market for their horses, and sometimes did a livery business, in Indian style. A stalwart son of Erin, standing against the wall of the store to "rest his pack,'" after looking at the trail leading up the mountain, said to the merchant doing business there, '*I say, misther, is it up that hill we go?" Hearing an affirmative answer, he looked again at each bench, his brow growing darker the higher his eye went; at length he gave vent to his estimate of the undertaking b}^ saying, "By the howly St. Patrick, if me own mother was here in the shape of a mule, I'd ride her up that hill, sure I I say, Mis- ther Injun, wouldn't you sell us a bit of a pony for to carry our blankets an' things over the mountain with?" The Indian had been iii business long enough to understand that, and replied, "Xow-wit-ka mi-kapot- luctch. Chic-a, mon, ni-ka is-cuni, cu-i-tan ! " — " Och ! Mister Injun, don't be makiu' fun of a fellow, now, will ye? It's very sore me feet is, a-carrving me pick and pan and cookiiig-ti*aps. Why don't you talk like a WIOWAM AND WAUPATII. 37 ,he wall at the crcliant :hat hill looked ker the to his le howly le shape ty, Mis- ty for to with?" lUgh to ka pot- "Ochl LOW, will lick and like a vn into the gulch, out of sight of Flip, he would give him a bottle of whiskey, in addition to the tv^enty dollars. The pony was turned over to Pat and Mike. The next move was to adjust the packs on the Cayuse. This was not easily done. First, because the pony did not understand Pat's jargon; second, they had not reckoned on the absence of a pack-saddle. Flip., al- ways ready to accommodate the travelling public, for II I i ! 38 WIGWAM AND WARPATH. i !l t| i^i! a consideration, brought an old cross-tree pack-sad- dle, and then the lash-ropcs, — ropes to bind the load to the saddle. Pat approached the pony with out- stretched hands, saying pretty things in Irish brogue; while Mike, to make sure that tl:c horse should not escape, had made it fast to his waist with a roi)e hold- ing back, while Pat went forward, so that at 'he pre- eioc moment the latter had reached the pony's nose, he reared up, and, striking forward, gave Pat a blow with his fore-foot, knocking hun down. Seeming to anticipate the Ii-ishman's coming wrath, he whirled so quick that Mike lost his balance and went down, shouting, " Sthop us, stliop us; we are running away! " Pat recovered his feet in time to jump on the pros- trate form of Mike, going along horizontally, at a furious gait, close to the pony's heels. The Cayuse slackened his speed and finally stoppc^d, but not until Mike had lost more or less of clothing, and the " T/clt " from his rosy face. "When the two Iri^lnnen were once more on foot, and both holding to the rope, now detached ^'om Mike's waist at one end, and buried into the wheezing neck of the Cayuse at the otlic, a scene occurred that liierdstadt should have had I'or a subject. I don't believe I can do it j T^^^^tice, and yet i desire my readers to see it, since the renowned painter above- mentioned, was not present to represent it on canvas. Think of two bloody-nosed ^ -[ah lads holding the poi^y, while he was pulling back until his haunches almoist touched the ground, wheezing for breath, oc- casionally jumping forward to slacken the rope around his neck, and each time letting Pat and Mike fall sud- denly to the ground, swearing in good Irish style at m I ii WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 39 k-sad- ic load li out- rogue; lid not e hold- he pro- 's nose, , a blow nuig to lirled so t down, awayl" lie pros- ily, at a • Oayuse not until "Tvelt" on foot, ed li'om vheezhig oceurred 3Ject. I csire my r above- canvas, ding the launches ath, oc- e around fall sud- etyle at m the " spalpeen of a brute " that had no better man- ners, while Mr. Indian was laughing as he would have done his crymg, — away down in his heart. Flip, and others looking on, were doing as near justice to the occasion as possible, by laughing old-fashioned horse-laughs, increasing with each speech from Pat or Mike. Occasionally, when the Cayuse would suddenly turn his heels, and fight in pony style, Pat would roar out Irish, while the horse would compel them to follow hi'n, each with body and limbs at an angle of forty-five degrees, until his horseship would turn again, and then they were on a horizontal awhile. Securing him to a post, Pat said, "]S^o',.', be jabers, we've got him." After slipping a shirt partly over his head, to " blind " him, they proceed to sinche — fas- ten — the pack-saddle on him, and then the two packs. Wlien all was lasherl fast, and a hak-i-more — rope hal- ter — was on his nose, they untied him from the post, and proposed to travel, but Cayuse did not budge. Mike pulled and tugged at the halter, while Pat called him pretty names, and, vath outspread hands, as thoiigli Ik; was herduig geese, stamping his foot, coaxed pony to start. No use. Flip, suggested a sharp stick. Pat went for his cane, like a man who had been sud- denly endowed with a bright idea. After whittling the end to a point, he applied it to the pony. The next speech that Irishman made was while in half-bent position. With one hand on the side of his head, he anxiously addressed Tip. " Meester Injun, is me ear gone? Meester Injun, what time of night is it now? I say, Meester Injun, where now is the spal- peen of a pony?" 40 WIGWAM AND WARPATH. I ■' !l I ill ■ i HI ! i ' 11 i Mike had let go of the rope soon after Pat applied the sharp stick, and was following the retreating blan- kets and bottles, ejaculating, "The beautiful whiske^'^ ! The beautiful whiskey I " When Pafs eyes were clear enough, Meester Injun, without a smile, pointed to the valley below, where frying pans and miners tools were performing a small circus, much to the amusement of a band of Cavuse horses, who were following Pat's pony with consider- able in';erest. I don't think the goods, or the whiskey either, were ever recovered by Pat and Mike, but I have an idea that " Tip-tip-a-noor *' had a big dance, and slept warm under the blankets, md possibly a big drunk. Of course, reader, you do not blame Irishmen for their opposition to " The Humane Policy of the Gov- ernment." The Indian, however, if detected in unlawful acts, was sure of punishment under the law, no matter though he may have been incited to the deed by whis- key he had bought of white men, who vended it in violation of law. This commerce in whiskey was car- ried on extensively, notwithstanding the efforts of a very efficient agent to prevent it. Men have started out on " Walker's line," carrying their blankets, and in a day or two they would be well mounted, without resorting to a " rope " or money to purchase with, and obtain the horses honestly too ; that is to say, when they practised self-denial, and did not empty the bottles they had concealed in their packs. One bottle of whiskey would persuade an Indian to dismount, and allow ^he sore-footed, honest miner, who carried the bottle, to ride, no matter though the WIGWA^I AND WARPATH. 41 act8, natter whis- S','9 m it in ■■■1 s car- "■". i of a •rying cwell icy to ; that id not lacks. an to nmer, ».^ h the horse may have belonged to other parties. I have heard men boast that they were "riding a bottle," meaning the horse that bore them along had cost that sum. Such things were common, and could not be pre- vented. Young " Black Hawk " learned how to speak English, and make brick, and various other arts, through the kindness of the Superintendent of the State's Prison, These things he might never have known, but for the foresight of some fellow who dis- liked the fare on " "Walker's " line. The question is asked, " AYhat was the agent do- ing?" He was doing his duty as well as he could, with the limited powers he possessed. But when he sought to arrest the white men who were violators of the laws of the United States, he was always met with the common prejudices against Indian testimony, and found himself defeated. But, when he was ap- pealed to for protection against Indian depredations, he found sympathy and support, and few instances occurred whore guilty Indians escaped just punish- ment. I knew the agent well, and doubted not his sense of justice in his efforts to maintain peace. If he did not mete out even-handed justice in all matters of dispute between white men and Indians, the fault was not his, but rather that of public sentiment. When colored men were "niggers," the Indian "had no rights that white men were bound to respect." He who proclaimed against the unjust administra- tion of law so unfavorable to the Indians, in courts where white men and Indians wei-e parties, was de- nounced as a fanatical sentimentalist, and placed in the l> \ I 11! ' ill S!:!l ii ' li 1 ■ 1 ■ IB 'V ' mP ' i : !■ 1 1 i 1 1 II li 1 ] i| : ' ' ■ ; i. ' i ; II i '^ii. 42 WIGWAM AND WAUPAXn. same category with "TVendell Phillips" and "Old John Brown," whose names, in former times, were used to deride and frighten honest-thinking people from the expression of sentiments of justice and right. I wish here to record that, although we did a large amount of bu.siness with white men and Indians, we nevoi" had occasion to complain of the latter for steal- ing, running off stock, or failing to perform, according to agreement, to the letter, even in matters left to their own sense of honor. > On one occasion, " Cascas," a Reservation Indian, who ^\ as under contract to deliver, once in ten days, at Lee's Bncampment, ten head of yearlings, of specified size and quality, as per sample, at the time of making the bargain, brought nine of t^^e kind agreed upon and one inferior animal. Before driving them into the corral, he rode up to the house, and calling me, ])ointcd to the small yearling, saying that was " no good ; " that he could not find " good ones " enough that morning to fill the contract, but if I would let the " Ten-as-moose-moose " — small steer — go in, next time, he would drive up a " Ili-as-moose- moose " — big steer — in place of an ordinary yearling. If I was unwilling to take the small one, he would drive him back, and bring one that would be up to the standard. I assented to the first proposition. Faithful to the promise, he made up the deficiency with a larger ani- mal next time, and even then made it good. Another circumstance occurred which asserted the honesty of these Indians. After we had corralled a small lot of cows purchased from them, one escaped and returned to the Indian band of cattle, from which i I "3 ill WIGWAM AND AVARPATH. 43 she had been driven. Three or four years after, we were notified by the owner of the band that ve had four head of cattle with his herd. True, it was but simple honesty, and no more than any honest man would have done; but there are so many who would have marked and branded the calves of that little herd, in their own interest, that I felt it worthy of mention here to the credit of a people who have few friends to speak in their behalf. I^TotAvithstanding their lives furnish many evidences of high and hon- orable character, yet they, very much like white men, exhibit many varieties. In pressing need for a supply of beef for hotel use, I called on " Tin-tin-mit-si," once chief of the Walla- Wallas (a man of extraordinary shrewdness, and possessed of great wealth, probably thirty thousand dollars in stock and money), to make a purchase. He, silently, half in pantomime, ordered his horse, that he might accompany me to the herds. Taking with us his son-in-law, John McBernc, as interpreter, we soon found one animal that would answer our purpose. The keen-eyed old chief, with his blanket drawn over his head, faced about, and said, " How much that cow weigh?" — "About four hundred and fifty pounds," I answered. " How much you charge for a dinner?" — "One dollar," I responded. "How much a white man eat? " said " Tin-tin-mit-si." I read his mind, and knew that he was thinking how to take advantage of my necessity, ard, also, that he was not accustomed to the white man ;i dinner. I replied, " Sometimes one pound." — " All .• ' • ," quoth Indian; " you pay me four hundred dollars, then what is over will pay you lor cooking." — " But who will pay me ' I 44 WIGWAM AND WARPATH. for the coffee, sugar, butter, potatoes, eggs, cheese, and other thmgs?" I replied. While Johnny was repeating this speech the old chief moved up closer, and let his blanlset slip off his ears, and demanded a repetition of the varieties com- posing a Christian dinner; and, while this was being done, he looked first at the interpreter, then at me, and said, in a surly, dry tone, " No wonder a white man is a fool, if he eat all those things at once; an Indian would be satisfied with beef alone." After some mathematical calculations had been explained, he agreed to accept forty-five dollars, a good, round price for the cow. And I drove away the beast, while " Tin-tin-mit-si " returned to his lodge to bury the money I had paid him along with several thousand dollars he had saved for his sons-in-law to quarrel over; for the old chief soon after sent for his favorite horse to be tied near the door of his lodge, ready to accompany him to the happy himting- grounds, where, according to Indian theology, he has been telling his father of the strange people lie had seen. ai 'I * i CHAPTER IV. DIAMOND-CUT-DIAMOND. It was understood, in the treaty stipulation with the Government and these people, that they were to have the privilege of hunting and grazing stock in com- mon with citizens on the public domain. In the exer- cise of this right, they made annual journeys to Grand Round and other valleys, east of the Blue mountains, driving before them, on these journeys, their horses. They were often thus brought in contact with white settlers, and sometimes difficulties occurred, growing, generally, cut of the sale of intoxicating liquors to them by unprincipled white men. Indians are not better than white men, and, when drunk, they exhibit the meaner and baser qualities of their nature as completely as a white man. Deliver us from either, but of the two, an intoxicated white man has the advantage; he is not held responsible to law. The Indian has one privilege the civilized white brother is not supposed to enjoy. He can abuse his family, and us long as he is sober enough can whip his squaw; but woe be to him when he gets past fight- ing, for then the squaw embraces the opportunity of beating him in turn, and calls on other squaws to assist in punishing her lord for past as well as present ofiences. The chiefs generally watch over their men, to pre- vent the purchase of liquor by them. "Homli," 46 WIGWAM AND WARPATH. ■ n chief of the Walla-Wallas, sometimes punished his braves in a summaiy manner for getting drunk, using a horsewhip in the public streets. However worthy the example, I believe that it was not often followed by others of either race. The annual visits of which I have spoken occurred in the latter part of June, when the mountain sides of Grand Ivound valley were offering tempting induce- ments in fields of huckleberries. The valley, too, — where not enclosed and turned to better use, — was blooming with Indian " muck-a-muck," a sweet, nutri- tious root called ca-mas, with which the Indian women filled baskets and sacks, in which to carry it to their homes for winter use. The beautiful river of Grand Round was inviting the red men to war against the shining trout and salm- on, that made yearly pilgrimage to greater alti- tudes and cooler shades, there to woo and mate, and thus to people the upper waters w;ith finny children, who would, in time of autumn leaves, go to the great river below, and come again when mountain snows, now changed to foaming torrents, hastened to the river's mouth, and tempting salmon flies had come from their hiding places, and swarmed on bush and bank, to lure the fish onward and upward, or beguile them to the fisher's net, or hidden spear, if, perchance, they were warned away from angler's line, or escaped the lightning arrow of Indian boys. Then, too, this beautiful garden of the mountains wore its brightest hues on plain and sloping hills and cultured field. The farmers were idle then, and often went to join the red men in racing horses, and chasing each other in mimic wars. Sometimes the two would WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 47 engage in trades of wild Cayuses (Indian horses), teaching eacli other how to tame these fiery steeds. Gi'cat circus shows were these, in which the red man might for once laugh at the white man's clumsy imi- tations of red men's daily i-ecreations. Again, the red man had sweet revenge for sharper practice which he had felt at the hands of his Avhite brother. Selecting some ill-natured beast, whose tricks he well knew, he would offer him at a price so low, that some white man who was tired of going to his neighbors for a ride, or had a hopeful son anxious to imitate little Indian boys in feats of horsemanship, would purchase him. Then fun began, to witness which the town sometimes turned out. The colt, un- used to civilized bit or spur, would, like his former owner, show contempt for burdens he was not made to bear without " bucking." When, with bridle and saddle, and rider, all new, surrounded by scenes un- like his coltship's haunts, he was called upon to forward move, he would stand as if turned to marble, until by persuasion of whip and spur he'd change his mind. Then, with a snort, a bound, or upward motion of his back, his nostrils buried in the dust, he'd whirl and whirl until the rider dizzy grew, of which circum- stance he seemed aware, when, with all his power brought into quick use, he sent the rider in mid-air or overhead, and straightway bent each bound toward his former home, followed by loud shouts of laughter, made up of voices joined of every kind and age, ex- cept perhaps that of the disgusted father — who had sundry dollars invested in furniture on the runaway's back — and the crying boy in the dust. The chances against the new owner's boy ever 48 WIGWAM AND WAKPATII. i i !' !; Ill 'II i " putting on much style " on that pony were not very numerous. Fearing as much, tlie next proposition was to sell the pony back t.^ " Mr. Injun " at a heavy discount; Avhich Avas done much against the wishes of the dethroned boy, whose aspirations for western honor were thereby " nipped in the bud." A lawyer of "La Grande," celebrated for his shrewdness in Ijusiness generally, and who was the father of several (>nterprising sons, made an invest- ment in Cayuse stock, for the benefit of the aforesaid boys, and fearing that he, too, might go in mourning over the money thus spent, in fatherly tenderness determined that he himself would ride the pony first. The horse was saddled, and led by a long rope to the ofiice door. The lawyer said, " ]N^ow, Charley, I'll fool that pony, sure. I'm little, you know, and he'll think I'm a boy." The rope was made fast to an awning-post, and then, in presence of a hopeful audi- ence, he mounted slowly, though in full lawyer's dress, a bell-crowned " plug " (hat) included. When softly springing in the stirrups, to assure himself all was right, and confident that his " nag " was there, subject to his will, he essayed to display his horsemanship. But pony was not ready then. The lawyer called for whip and spurs, and without dismounting they were furnished, and while holding out his foot to have the spur put on, remarked that " he did not half like the white of the pony's eye. But, boys, I'll stick while the saddle does." With sober face and eye fixed on the ears in front, he coaxed again, and with soft; speech sought to change the pony's mind. But he was not ready now, until he felt the rowel stick into WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 41) his sides, and then away went horse and rider together, to the end of the rope, where the pony stopped, though the hiwyer did not, until his liead had struck the crown of his hat; and not then even, l)ut, going at a furious rate, the lawyer, hat, and torn trowsers had landed all in a heap on the other side of the street; the awning-post gave way, and the lawyer's Cay use went oir, with a small part of the town following him. The language used hy him on this occasion con- sisted not of quotations from Blackstone, or the Bihlc either, unless in detached words i)ut strangely in shape to answer immediate use. It is not safe to say any- thing about fooling ponies, in court or elsewhere, in the town of La Grande, unless the si)eaker wants war. That lawyer, although a stanch liepublican, and liable to be a candidate for Congress, is strongly opposed to President Grant's peace policy with Indians, — the Umatilla Indians in particular. To say that Chief Ilomli and his tribe enjoyed little episodes, growing out of horse-trading with the citi- zens of La Grande, is too gentle and soft a way of telling the truth, and have it well understood, unless Ave add the westernism " hugely." These visits had other beneficial results than those growing out of trade, since they extended over the Fourth of July, when all the peoj)le of the valley came together to celebrate the "nation's birthday," when, with fife and drum, the country-folks would join with those in town, who " marched up a street and then marched down again," to the willow-covered stand, where readers and orators would rehearse, one, the history of the "Declaration," the other, repeat some great man's speech. 50 WIGWAJI AND WARPATH. III! 1^ '■.•Ml The tables j;roaned beneath the loads of viands, spread by gentle women's hands. The leader and the orator oi" the day wonld take positions at either end, and the meek eha[)lain in between, while the bashful country boys would lead up their girls, until the table had been tilled. Ilonili and his people, dressed in Fourth-of-July regalias, would look on from respectful distance, and wonder what the reader meant, when he said, "All men are born free and equal," and wondered more to hear a wicked orator protest that ihe " Hag above was no longer a llamiting lie." The Indians were then serving in the house of a foolish old man, named Esau. When fair lips refused hjuger to taste, and manly breast was filled too full for utterance, Ilomli and his people were in- vited to partake. Some of his people accepted the gift of the remnants; but he, Ilomli, never. In the absence of better pastime, the crowd would come again to the grand stand, to give opjjortunity for disai)pointed spouters to ventilate pent-up patri- otism. Ilomli, too, made a speech, and w^ith keen rebuke referred to days gone by, when white men had come to his lodge, and craved his hospitality; how his women had culled their berr^-baskets to find some- thing worthy of the white man's taste, and how the finest trout had been ofiered in proof of friendship for the stranger guest, and boasted that he had given the finest horses of his band to help the stranger on, and sent an escort of trusty braves to direct him over all doubtful trails. He boasted, too, that no white man's blood had ever stained his hand, even when he was sti'ong, and they were weak; then, with well-made gesture, pointed to the valley, once all his own, and ' }:;i % m- WIGWAM AND WAUrATII. 51 ancls, • and eitlier e the , until leople, ok on render ic a"d orator amting )use of lir lips IS iilletl v^crc in- )ted the covered with .•^ntclope and feathery trihes. No Iiouhcs, fields, or barns marred tlien the beautiful xalley of the mountain. Tiu-ning' half around, he gazed at people and town, and nadly motioned to the mountain-sides, robbed of fir and pine, and seemed to drink in, what, to him, was desolation made complete. With eye half closed, he mused a moment, and then broke forth like some brave soul that had mastered self, and was reconciled to the inexorable destiny that his mind had seen in store, declared that he would be a man himself, with white man's heart, and that his people would yet join with pride in the coming celebra- tions. The triumph of civil hopes over savage mind was complete, and when the change was realized by the lookers-on, they gathered round the chieftain, and gave him welcome to a brotherhood born of a nation's struggles to redeem mankind, when the white men were few and Ilomli's people numerous as the stars that looked do>Mi on the rivers of this beautiful land. "Who shall rememljer the mild reproof of Ilomli, wdien he, under the humane and enlightened policy of the GoveiTunent, shall have made good this declaration to be a white man in heart and practice? Little things sometimes move in harmony until they unite, and make up an aggregate of causes, whose combined power becomes irresistible for good or ill to peoples, tribes, and nations. The chieftain of whom I write had, at various times, felt the thongs that bound him to his savage habits loosening, little by little, until at last, under the influence of the patriotic joy of freemen, he him- self had stepped from under a shadow that was once i i r' ! 52 WIGWAM AlsD WARPATH. I' m !i! ? ,';1i-i rilNi a beiiison, but had now, because of his eiihghtenment, become a barrier to his happiness. The change was real, and the heart that had come laden with reproach to hh neighbor, and felt the sting of slighted manhood, now exulted in the recognition he had found in the sunshine of American Indepen- dence, and the warm hands of freedom's sons, who bade him welcome to a better life. No human brain can correctly measure the influence of such events. Ilomli, as I have said, was a chief of the Walla- Wallas, who, in conjunction with the Uma- tihas and Cayuses, occupied the reservation spoken of as "Umatilla" (horse-heaven), it being the orig- inal home of the tribe bearing that name. In 1856, the three tribes above named united in treaty coun- cil with the Government, rep" isented by the lamented J. I. Stevens and General Joel Palmer. T'liis treaty was conducted with firmness and on principles of justice, the Indians having, in this in- stance at least, half " the say." By the terms agreed npou, a portion jf country was reserved by the three tribes for a i)ermanen' home, to be held jointly by them. It is located on one of the tributaries of the Columbia, known as the Umatilla river. The out -boundaries measured one hundred and three miles, covering a country possessing many natural advantages, conducive to Indian life, and of great value in the transfei* of these people from a barbarous to a civilized condit'on. Its surface is diversified with rich prairie lands, producing an excellent quality of bunch grasr> — so called becaiise of its growing in tussocks, — covering not more than half the surface of the ground, the WIGWAM AND WAK^'ATII. 53 remainder being entirely devoid of vegetation, very nutricious and well adapted to grazing. The mountains are partly covered with forests of pine and fir, valuable for commercial and building purposes, '^lie streams are rapid, with bold shores, abounding in laten^, power, waiting for the tii.ne when labor and capital shall harness its cataracts to ma- ciiinery, whose music will denote the transformation process going on in the forest of the mountain; the fleeces from the plain, and in the cereals they contain, in embryo, for better use than shading herds of cattle and Indian horses, or its fleeces made traffic for traders and shippers, who enrich themselves by taking them in bulk and returning in manufactured exchanges; or for its fields to lie dormant a'ld idle, while commerce invites and starving people clamor for bread they might be made to yield. True, its almost unbroken Avilderness, echoing the call of cougar or cayote (ki-o-te) ; its tall gras^s plains, tangled and trembling with the tread of twenty thou- sand horses; its valleys decked with carpets of gorgeous flowers, — fit patterns for the costumes of those w ho dance thereon, — or speckled with baby farms, belonging to red-skinned ploughmen, or shaded by the smoke of council wigwams ; its waters some- times shouting, as if in pain, while hurrying headlong against the rock, or, laughing beneath the balm-wood trees at the gambols of its owui people, or, divided into an hundred streams, go rushing on, still play- ing -nirror for the smiling faces of the youths, wiiose hearts and actions take pattern after its own freedom; true, indcL 1, that this lovely spot of earth seems to have been the special handiwoi-k of the Almighty, 54 WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 'I '8 iil! fi 'I 'I II ir i" ijii ji: :ii i 1 ii who had withheld from other labors the cnoicest gems of beauty, that he might make a paradi.se, where youth could keep pace with passing years, until the change of happy hunting-grounds should be noted only by the wail of weeping widows, or sighs of sor- rowing orphans. 'Twas to this Indian paradise that Homli returned from his summer visit, his heart laden with new feel- ings of pride; for he had been recognized as a man. If he did not then begin to enjoy the realization of his hopes, there were reasons why he did not that few have understood. Born to a wild, free life, possessed of a country such as few ever enjoy, with a channel of commerce traversing his home ; brought in constant contact with white men, some of whom, at least, he found to be soulless adventurers, ever ready to take advantage of his ignorance of trado ; confused and bewildered by the diversity of opinions on political and religious subjects; witnessing the living falsehood of much of civilized life; but half understanding the ambitions of his " new heart," or the 2)rivilege he was entitled to; with the romance of his native education in mat- ters of religion, its practical utility to satisfy his longings that reached into the future, or to meet the demands of conscience, where duty led him, or anger at insult drove him; the performance of its ceremonies, connecting social with religious rites, — added to these the power that his red brethren who were yet un- touched by the finger of dostiny, and were luxuriating in idle, careless life, enhanced by the sight of the hardened hands and sweating brows of those who soujyht to find admission to circles where labor insures WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 55 ^ems here L the loted ' sor- irned ' feel- man, on of hat t t j\intry imcrce ct with to be age of red by liglous uch of l)ltlons ntitled n mat- 4y his et the anger bonies, lo these let nn- Iriating of the ^e who insures reward; confused when witnessing the cnfoi-cement of laws "that are saf)posed to be uniform in opera- tion," b} the outrageous partiality shown ; treated with coldness and distrust, because of his color ; envied of his possessions, to which he had an inalienable right, by deed from God, and confirmed by the government of the United States; compelled to hear the constant coveting of others for it, and to hear government de- nounced because it did not rob him of his home; to see distrust in every action toward him; his manhcad ignored, or crushed by cruel j^ower; his faith shaken; treated as an alien, even in his birthplace; taunted with the threat that when he planted his feet on higher plains, he should be crowded off, or forced to !?tand tottering on the brink; li'.s fears aroused by the threats he overheard of being finally driven away; of si^eculations on the future towns that should spring up over the graves of his fathers, when he was not there to defend them, — added to all these discourage- ments the oppressions of his would-be teachers, in moral ethics and religion; demanding his attendance on ceremonies that were intangible, incomprehensible, to his mind, made more unbearable by the tyranny of his red brethren, growing out of their recognition of church-membership, and the consequent arrogance, even contempt, with which they spoke of his religious habits and ceremonies; unable to reconcile the prac- tices of these people with the precepts of their priest ; ostracised from those, who, while untouched by the hand of Christianity, had mingled voice and prayer with him in wilder worship; finding friends among white men, whose hearts were true, but who, in- stead of soothing his troubled feelings by patiently •M") -ill I m'i :l , t 66 WIGWAM AND WARrATH. teaching him charity and lilieral-mindccl views toiicli- ing matters of religious practice of his Catliolic friends and their ministers, would pile the fagots on the burning altar 'twixt him and them, increasing dis- trust, making the breach wider, thus becoming alienated from the other chiefs, llow-lish-wam-po, of Cayuse, and We-nap-snoot, of the Unritillas, and those of their tribes who had been led, by minis- trations of priest and chief, to the solemn masses of the church: if then Ilomli failed to be a "white man " in heart, on whom does the responsibility rest? I have iiot dealt in fiction, but have stated the cir- cumstance plainly, the truth of which will not be questioned by those whoso personal knowledge quali- fies them for passing judgment, unless, indeed, it be those whose minds have been trained to run in narrow, bigoted grooves, whose hearts have never felt the warming influences of the high and pure love for truth that characterizes a noble Christian manhood, and whose measure of right is made by the petty and self/ .J 'uterest of himself, who, with the judgment of a truckling demagogue, barks for pay in popular ap- plause or political reward. For the present, I leave my readers to chide Ilomli for his failure, if, indeed, they can, with the facts before them. As to the responsibility, I shall discuss the subject fully and fearlessly on some future page of this work, where the argument for and against the several "policies" may be made and applied in a general way in the consideration of the subject of " Indian civilization." CHAPTER Y. PGLK lES ON TRIAL— "ONE ATTA." In" the fall of 186G, the "Oregon Delegation," in "Washington, proposed the name of the anthor of this book for appointment as Superintendent of Indian Affairs in Oregon. President Johnson, on inqnirj-, learned that he was not a " Johnson man," and, of course, refused to make the nomination. The recommendation of the author's name was made without Ms solicitation or knowledge. On the accession of P -esident Grant, the recommendation was renewed, the nomination was made and con- firmed by the Senate of the United States ; bonds filed, Oatiis of office administered, and notice given to my predecessor ; and on the 1st of May, 18G9, I assumed the duties of the office indicated. The new administration had the Indian qnestion in transit, between three policies: The old way, ^^ Civil Service,'''' ^^ The War Department Policy, ^^ and General Grant's " Quaher Policy.'''' With good intention, doubtless, the several policies were put on trial. Oregon supcrintendency and all its agencies were assigned to the tender care of the War Department policy, and I was ordered to turn over my office to an oificer of the army, even before I luid performed ' 8 11 il I I v.i Mi ■ 1 t ii 1 i: i! 1 ^ '^ h;! JU 1 ■ \ • 58 wigwa:m and wahpath. an important official duty. Remonstrance was made by the people of Oregon against the change. A compromise was effected. I was retained as Supeiintcndent, and Hon. Ben. Simpson, Agent at Siletz, and Capt. Charles Lal'ollette, Agent at Grand lionnd also of the civil service policy. The remainder of the agencies were assigned to officers of the army. This mixing np of elements was somewhat embarrassing for a thne. I began again my official duties. From the records in the Superintendent's Office, Salem, Oregon, I learned the location and something of the condition of the several agencies under my charge. " T/^e Coast Reservation,^'' covering three hundred miles of the Pacific coast, embraced several stations, or agencies, comprising not more than one-third the territory within its boundaries. It had never been ceded to the Government, neither acquired by con- quest, but was set apart by an act of Congress for the benefit (t' the several tribes of the "Willamette valley. It is partly timbered and generally moun- tainous. It abounds in resources suitable to Indian savage life. On -e this Avild region had been peopled with deer and elk, whose plaintive call had led thecotigar to his feast, or qtiickened the steps of the huntsman, Avhose steady nerves enabled him to glide through the tanglewood, bearing with him images of his children (who, dependent upon his archery, awaited his rettn-n) ; and of faithful clutchmen (sqtiaws), whose eyes wotdd kindle at sight of hunter, laden with frtiits of the chase, that were to be food and clothing for her little ones. These forest trees had ntood ■^ 1 n II % WIGWAM AND AVARPATII. 59 ade I as t at : at The Leers was 3ords )n, I lition iidred itions, rd the been con- 'or the mette noun- ndian II deer Ito his whose ih the iildren Id his whose with )thing ntood sentinels, guarding its people, from the gaze of tamer hmitsmen, and from the rough ocean winds that sweep the coast; or, uttering hoarser sounds, or sighing songs, warning of coming storms, that some- times beat the white-winged ship, laden with mer- chandise, from foreign lands, against the rocky shore (whose caverns were the refuge of sea-lions), oi', echoing back Pacific's roar, were waiting for the debris from wrecks of stately crafts, or coming of sea- washed mariners. Then, at such perilous times, the peoples of this wild western verge of continent would, in pure charity, build warning-fires on higher blutl's, at night- fall, and thus give signals of danger; or, mayhap, they sometimes built them to decoy, in order to ave'ge insult (or wrong, real, or imaginary) of some former seaman, who had repaid them for good will by treacherous act of larceny of some dusky maiden, or black-eyed boy, or stalwart warrior, car- ried away to other lands. Ti-adition's living tongue has furnished foundation for the pictures I have made. And many times to listening ears the story has been told, changed only in the name of maiden, or boy, or braves, as date or location gave truth to the sorrowing tale. Living still, on a homci sot apiiil by the State, are two chieftains of a western tribe, wliose people tell, in story and in song, how, at a ci'rlain sign of danger to a shi)), they went out over the breakers in a hollow-tree iiuioc, to meet the white "tyee" of the " great canoe," and in pity for the poverty of his knowledge of sea line had proffered him shelter in a quiet nook of land-locked ocean, until such time as Hi ill! i!: ilH^ !:.;i i:h • I! . ''^ i' l5| . 60 WIGWAM AND WAItPATH. ik the Great Spirit might give evidence of anger past, by smiling on the boisterous waves that had made sport of man's puny elforts to control his own going. These chieftains, in dainty craft, had won the cap- tain's conlideuce, and, by consent of favoring winds and rolling s(}as, with trust he follows past lone rocks that stand above the sunken reef, and through the foamy passage, guarded by " headlands " on either side; past bars, unseen, that break huge rollers into waves of shorter measure; past, still past, the homes of fishermen on shore, until at last his sails Happed approval on the mast, the keel complains of unaccus- tomed touch, and anchors dropped in fathoms short to the bed of a bay that gives evidence of welcome, by sending its sands to surface, speckled with mica or sparkling with grains of gold. Thus the white man's big canoe found rest, and sailors crowded the rail to give signs of gratitude to the strange, stroiig-arme(l pilots. The captain let down his stairs, that they might come on deck and exchange mutual feelings of each heart. On the one hand, that of thankfulness, that misfortunes make mankind akin, and used such occa- sions to teach the lion that the mouse may be his master when circumstances bring his ability into demand. The white man felt gratitude, and made proof of it by loading the red man's " hollow tree " Avith rich stores of choice sugars from the islands, blankets made in colder zones; with clothing that illy fitted the red man's limbs; with lines, and nets, and hooks, and spears of foreign make, and with weapons of {mil t'tt'< WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 61 fiery breath and noisy moutli, tliat poorly mated tlic bow and '.rrow, tliougli mating good by force of execution tlie loss in warning talk. The chieftains, too, gave back, with answering hand and smiling face, the gladness of their hearts that they had found opportunity to serve the white man. When they departed, the " tyee " bade them come again. This was a great day for the chieftain's household, when they landed beneath the willow trees near their e-li-he (home). The women, with great, wondering eyes at the sight of so many ic-tas (goods), began to unload the "hollow-tree canoe," and, as each article new to them came in sight, they would wonder and chatter and try them on, until at last they stood clothed in sailor's garb, of jacket, pants and shoes. To their camps they came, loaded with the precious freights, and, coming to their own, the little ones would cry and run, shouting, " Ilal-lu-me, til-li-cum " (strangers) ; nor would they trust to their mothers' voices until they had put aside their cos- tumes. These chiefs still laugh at the surprise they felt at sight of what they supposed to be the new-found friends, until the merry cluchmen (women) shouted, " Cla-hoy-em-six, tyee?" (How do you do, chief?) They quickly rose from their cougar skin and pan- ther's pelt, caught the bogus sailors, and quickly robbed them of their borrowed clothes. That night, while the sun was going to rest in his bed of flaming billows, on the ship's deck arid on the sand of the red man's floor, happy hearts bade each " Good-night." The white man was happy now that his home was gently rocked by flowing tides. The 62 WIOWAM AND WARPATH. * III'!, .'r Bill', . l,l||| 1 >im-\ '-ii red men, happy with thoir lil-H-ciims, retaihiig in guttural notes their groat adventures, *and dancing the pot-hu'h dance (giving dance), wouhl stop, and with their hands divide the prizes won, without thought of sliells, or Indian coin, oi* wliite man's chick-a-nion (money). AVhen "to-morrow's sun" had climbed over the craggy ledges of the coast mountain, and sent out his fiery messengers to an- nounce his coming, they came to the vesseFs deck, nd fonnd no watchman there. They peeped into the foiecastle and cabin, and waked the slumberers up to welcome the new morn begun on the bosom of Ya Quina Bay. At the Indian lodge, the soft voice of cluchman, mingling with the murmur of rippling rills, that from snow-banks high on the mountain side cam.c hurrying down to quench the thirst of sailor or of savage; maybe, the briny lips of the sea-monster or salmon fish, that come in to rest from surging waters and bask awhile in the smooth currents of the bay. The chiefs arose and made breakfast on foreign teas and island sugars, and when in new attire, with cluchman in beads and fine tattoo (an adornment of savage tribes), with noses pierced by long polished shells, that made an uncouth imitation of a dandy's moustache, with pappoose in basket hung with bells, or lashed to boards with wild-deer thongs, and slung on mother's back, secured with sealskin belts worn on the brow. To make the whole a complete picture of Indian life, the dogs were taken in, and then sitting in the prow to give command, the "hollow-tree canoe" was pointed toward the ship. The loud hurrah of sailors, that was intended to give welcome, was at ? in cing , and bout nan's snn " coast an- deck, to the up to of Ya ihman, it from ivrying avage; almon rs and -•n teas I, with \cnt of ^Ushed landy's lells, or \mg on 3rn on lure of [sitting -anoe" i-ah of ras at WIGWAM AXD WAUPATII. G3 fii'st construed to be a warnin*^, and quick the " hol- low-tree canoe" was turned about, each paddle [)lay- ing in concert to carry the frightened visitors away, while cluchincn and maidens, with woman's privilege, screamed in terror of expected harm. The chief soothing them, and looking back descried the tyee captain, with beckoning hand and signs re- calling him to fuini his purpose, and make the visit. He bade the oarsman cease, and, while his canoe moved on from ac(iuired motion, though slower going, while he backward gazed, he, with noiseless paddle, again l^'ought the prow towards the sides of the "big canoe." Slowly and cautiously he, with his precious cargo, floated nearer and nearer still, with eyes wide open, to detect any sign of treachery, sometimes half stopping at suggestions of frightened mothers or timid maidens, and then anon would forward move ; still, however, with great caution, until at last the two canoes were rocking on the gentle tide in closest friendship. The seamen who made this welcome port came on deck, with a sailor's pride of dress, wide-legged trow- sers, and wider collars to their shirts over their shoulders falling, and with wide-topped, brimless caps. When the new-comers had passed their fright, and the old chief had climbed on deck to be sure that all was safe, he called his family, and, though the jolly tars went down to assist them, they remained waiting for some further proof of friendship. "While their eyes were upw^ard tui-ned, and Jack's were downward bent, two pairs (at least) met mid- way, and told the old, old tale over again. On deck, and leaning oyer the rail, stood a youth- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V ^ 4i. 1.0 1.1 1.25 t&Ka 125 ■ 50 ■^" !■■ Ui 1^ 122 MM 1.4 11.6 I V] "># ^l. :>> '/ >!^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 Wt-ifK M'« STREET WEBSTER, N.y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 « canoe Thus the day had passed and joined the happy ones gone before it; and bells had called the sailors to the deck, and the Indian chief reposed his limbs on the uncut swath of willow grass, and waited for the ap- proach of night, that he might, by signal fires, call his kinsmen to the pil-pil dance; a dance in honor of each Indian maiden when she " comes out." Oneatta had demanded of her parents this honor, and, since custom allowed this privilege, she on that day reached an era in her life, when she chose to bo no longei" a child. Her father, the chief, wondered at this sudden change of manner wrought, but, yielding to his doating c'lild, gave his assent. The picture I am making now is true to the life of many a maiden, who may follow Oneatta's history, whose faces take their hue of colors that give token of their race. Some of them may recall their " coming out " 'neath dazzling chandeliers, on carpets of finest grain, in dresses trailing long, in which they stepped with timid gait to softest music, of silver, lyre, or flute, or many-voiced piano. But Oneatta's parlor was lighted up with glittering stars, that had done service long, and brighter grew 66 WIGWAM AND WARPATH. ' (■»■■ to eyes of each new belle, who had, from tune to time, lent first a listening ear to soft-voiced swain. The carpets were brightest green, and sanded by waves stranded on the beach at the flowing of the tide. The music was grandly wild, a combination of the hoarse drum, or angry roar of sea-lions, mingling with the deep bass voice of waves, breaking on the rocks, while, soft and low, the human notes came in to make the harmony complete to cars long trained to nature's tunes. The maiden, whose heart was now tumultuous as the scenes around her, had dressed with greatest care in skirts of scarlet cloth, embroidered with beads and trimmed with furs of seal and down of swan. Her arms, half bared, were circled with bands of metals ; her neck, with hoofs of fawns, or talons of the mountain eagle; pendent from her ears, rattles of the spotted snake ; the partition of her nose held fast a beautiful shell of slender mould; her cheeks, rosy with vermil- ion paints; while in her raven hair she wore a gift from her pale-faced lover, brought from some far-off shore, intended for some other than she who wore it now. It was but a tinsel, yet it fitted well to crown her whose eyes were dancing long before her beaded slippers had touched time upon the sanded floor. The circular altar, built of pebbles of varied colors, ■was lighted up with choicest knots of pine from fallen trees. The watch on board the " big canoe " was set, and down its swinging stairway the tyee captain, mate, and sailors descended to the waiting boat ; then softly touched the oars to smiling waves, and steady WIGWAM AND WARPATH. 67 arms kept time to seamen's song in stern and bow, guided, meanwhile, by the altar fire. Over the glassy bridge they flew, and touched the bank beside the " hollow-tree canoe." With hearty hand the chieftains bade them wel- come, and gave silent signal for the dance to begin, while the tyee captain ar "< his men took station at respectftil space. The dancers came, and, forming round the maiden's altar fires, awaited still for her to come from lodge. The pale-faces, lighted up with blaze from knotty wood, with folded arms and curious wonder stood gazing on the scene. One among the number had scanned the merry ch'cle of bashful Indian boys and timid girls; his face bespoke vexation at his disappointment, for he had failed to catch the eye of Oneatta. She came, at length, tripping toward the festive throng, and spoke to him ere the dance began, not by smile, or deed, or word, but in Cupid's own appointed way, that never lies. He, as every other swain can do, read it in her eyes, and made ansTvar in ways that do not make mistake. When thd circle had closed round the altar, thu song of gladness broke forth from he lips of the tattooed and painted red chins, and from the drum of hoarser sound, and then the happy dancers, without waiting for partners, went with lithesome step in gay procession round. Louder rang the music, quicker grew the steps, each time round, the little invisible nrrows flew from sailor-boy to Indian maiden, and from maiden to sailor-boy ; glancing each against the other, would rustle and then go straight to target 68 WIGWAM AND WARrATII. sent, until at last the maiden tired grew, her bosom overladened with the arrows Cupid's quiver had supplied. She bade the dancers stop, and with native grace, and stately step, she stood beside her lover without a thought of wrong; for she was Nature's child, and had not felt the thongs of fashion's code, "which forbid her to be honest. Her tiny hand was pressed between the hard palms of the captive sailor, for he had been fighting a battle where each is conquered only to be a conqueror. Oneatta led the sai!or-boy to join those who, with wondering eyes, had waited for her return. He took his place beside his tutor now, to learn how a step unused by tamer people might make speech for joy and gladness. The dance was ended. Pale faces, and red ones, too, had lost sight of the stars, and were lulled to sleep by the rocking tides or muffled song of rippling waters, or by the breakers beating the rocky shores of Ya-quina. Day followed day, and each had a history con- necting it with its yesterday and prophesying for the morrow. The sailor-boy went not on duty now, for his "chummies" stood his watch. He spent much time at the e-li-he of the tyee chief, or with Oneatta went out in a small canoe to watch the fishermen spear the fattened salmon. Sometimes they rambled on the mountain side beneath the mansinetta trees, and exchanged lessons in worded language. He told her of his home, where cities and towns were like the forest of her native home; of people who outnumbered the stars above, and of bright-colored goods, of beautiful beads and WIGWAM AND WARPATH. ^^ ttL:1al1rt^«-»h. consent to go a" for the sakT^t red^T^ """ ^'«^'' give. • promised happiness he could The sailor made confidpnf r.^ u- i»g pictures painted of hLr.r''''P'*™' ™''^'°^- would do witi her then o T"''!'""* '^'"" ^^ came. ^° *° '"« mother's home he The honest captain foDiul ..k.- •• carrying her away, andTe^t fo ''" t"" '" ""^ ?'« °f they called the eh eftl 2 7 ^r" '^°'"> " (for so stand how the y' '^^"'''^ »■><• Vosea that the sailo -L sWM T""'"'- '"" ^''>- T.!^:rrr sxsr c'" '^^ -- - n.ot'Ketho„td™:tr "' -<« P---a of '''e^io. Of the Indian :Z'^::aZfZ\r'' '" ;^etyee cap^tain "mtdT L^H Is S r'-^ '^^^' the bomiding waves. Onentt. hi , J^ ° "'^"^ ^^"^ rowing mothers, sisters brrth '""^.^f'"•«weII to sor- *» t.=ep until h^r comi J o^^'r/.'-''^'' '^ token tnow not what yon do" y„ t '* °""''«''-' Jou of your fairer silters ^hoT " "" ""^ '"'"" ^^'""Ple of foreign lips. We'pl '! *" ""= ^"""^ ""^^ nepityyouaswedothera. You 70 WIOWAM AND WARPATH. ,1 •■'< m, .■ 11 ■'.' ' i :' have not thought how strange will be the customs, manners and life of those with whom you are to mingle. A time may come when you will long for the caresses of your rude mother, to hear the merry shouts of brothers, to gaze into the face of your dark- eyed father; perhaps long to hear love in native ac- cents spoken by the young brave who has given you choicest gems of ocean's strand and mountain cliflfs. "We see you yet when your kinsmen tell of you in song, or story, your dark eyes brimming with tears of hope and sorrow mingled. You reach the side of the " big canoe." "We see the brave and manly sailor-boy, who hastened to catch your trembling hand, and help you up the swinging steps, and when on deck you stand, we see the sailor's chums, from the ship-yards above, gaze down on you and him, with glances half of envy, and half of pleased surprise. And now we see you startle at the fierce command of the mate, to heave the anchor up, then their response drawn out in lengthened "Aye-aye, sir,'* and singing, while they work, the seamen's song; and how wide your dark eyes open at sight of whitened sails, outspreading like some monster swan, and the troubled, anxious look you give to the humble e-li-he of childhood, as it passed away, as if moving in itself, and the headlands that seem floating towards you, and the great water that came rushing to meet you. We see, too, your father, Tyee John, in his " hollow- tree canoe," leading the way, and pointing to some sunken rock, or shallow bar, or hidden reef, until he rounds to in proof of danger past to the " big canoe." US, to for ;rry irk- ac- you fs. ►uin rsof 3 see id to ) the 1Q see gaze ^, and imand their sir," ; and ttened id the -li-he Ing in Iwards meet lollow- some itil he lauoe j> i; m. ttH yii >n WIOWAM AND WARPATH. 78 How its huge white wings fold up at a signal from the tyee captain! And then your father comes on board, and stands in mute attention to the ceremonies of seamen's ♦marriage law. And you, in innocence, give heed to word or sign until you are bound in law to the fortunes and freaks of a roving sailor-boy. When Tyee John turns away, hiding his teai's in his heart, while yours run down your cheeks, we see him reach his canoe, and you hanging over the sides of the ship to catch a last glance of his eye. And then the white wings are spread again, and soon he grows so small that his paddle seems but a dark feather in his hand, and your old home recedes, and you have caught the last glimpse you ever will, of the mountain sinking in the sea, and you, alone, — no, not alone, foi- your sailor-boy is with you, now drying the tears from your dusky cheeks. Oneatta, we leave you, with a prayer that your life may not be as rough as the seas that drove the "big canoo " into Quina bay. "Whether your hopes have blossomed into fruition, or have been blasted, we know not, nor if you still live to be loved or loathed. We only know that your silver-haired sire sits on the stony cliff, overlooking the mouth of the harbor, and watches passing sails, or hastens to meet those that anchor, and repeat the old question over and over, Me-si-ka, is-cum, ni-ka-hi-ak-close, ten-as- cliichman, Oneatta? (Have you brought back my beautiful daughter, Oneatta?) When Cupid comes with pale-faced warric ! "» the dusky maiden now, they repeat the warning tale, with !Ni-ka-cum-tux Oneatta. (I remember Oneatta.) CHAPTER VI. SENATORIAL BRAINS BRATKN DY SAVAGE MUSCLE ANT WAY OF P.-YINO PENALTIES. ■ FLEAS. I'- 1 * .I'l ': liUfi TiiE story I have related is but one of the many that belong to this region, and for the tinith of which, witnesses still live, both whites and Indians; anothe.* reason I introduce it here is f^ show my readers who may think otherv^^ise, that Indians — savage as they are at times, often made savage by their religion — have liearts. Again and again shall I refer in this work to the red mriu's emotional nature, and to his religion. I cannot do so too often, as the reader will admit before he turns the last leaf. This agency is located west of the coast range of mountains, and bordering on the Pacific Ocean. The valleys are small, irregular in shape, fertile and pro- ductive, with prairies interspersed with forests of fir; picturesque almost beyond description. At some points the mountains reach out into the ocean, form- ing high headlands whereon are built light-houses, to guard mariners against the dangers of the coast. Long white sandy beaches stretch away for miles, and are then cut ofi" by craggy bluffs. At the southern boundary of Siletz — two miles from the line — may be found a beautiful bay, navi- gable inland for thirty miles. The banks are varied in altitude; undulating hills, with rich alluvial bottom lands intervening. The greatest width of bay is WiaWAM AND WARPATH. 75 perhaps four miles, and occasionally cut into channels by beautiful islands narrowing inland to receive the small river Ya-quina. Midway between the mouth of the river and the ocean entrance to the bay, extensive oyster-beds exist. This " Chesapeake " of the Pacific was once a part of Siletz reservatii)n. The discovery of the oyster- beds, and also of the numerous forests of timber accessible to navigation, attracted the attention of the white men; and the old, old story was again rehearsed, — "T/(c white men wanted them.'''' That it was wanted by the white men was su^lcient, and no a^nbitious candidate for Legislature or Con- gressional honors dare oppose the violation of a solemn compact between the United States Govern- ment and the Indians, who had accepted this