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32X

■V -^

SKETCHES

^ ffi:ottr

TimOLGU TIIC

iNORTHERN AND EASTERN STATES,

THE CANADAS & NOVA SCOTIA,

BY J. C. MYERS.

HARRISONBURG

J. ir. WARTMANN AND BROTflKRF. Tlkf .

184^

272088

«• >

3?***

FRi:rA(K,

While on a- tour to the North and Kast, durinj? thd
mouths o£ May, Juno and July, 1848, 1 took notes on the
piincipal objects of attraction which presented (liemselvcs
to my view, which, after my return home, I revised at my
leisure hours, by prefixing a short sketch of the general as-
pect of each Slate, for the sole purpose of refreshing my
memory in after days, and for the inspection of several of
my friends. To these sketches I added the population of
many of the cities, towns and villages, as given by the cen-
sus of 1840, so that I might the better test their growth in
future, should occasion require. I also added several his-
torical sketches, together with occasional remarks.

The memorandum thus sketched, I have been induced
by several of my friends to publish, which is done with a
good deal of reluctance, — because no thonght of such a
thing occurred to me during my tour, or I should not have
rushed over my route in so short a space of time, but would
have supplied myself, (as 1 would have h.ad abundant op-
portunities of doing.) with sufficient materials for a work
which would have been useful and interesting. While on
the other hand, the materials which compose the little
volume here olTered, were oidy sketched in a small mem-
orandum book, while in the pre.sence of the object. The
notes thus taken during ihe day, were again sketched as-
sisted by memorV; and placed in another memorandum
book during the evening, when alone in my room. The
reader therefore, must not expect the life and freshness of
a finished picture ; but mere sketches and outlines, — nor
that minute exactness of detail on many subjects, which
may be desirable, although I believe that the sketches will
bci found to be gencralh accurutc. For the truth of the

i I

\0 ■

r R c F A e £.

facts Btated oh my own knowledge I vouch, and those sla-
ted on the information of others I believe to be true; for
many of which 1 am indebted to some of the good people
of the North and East, whom I ever found as ready and
willing to give information as I could be to ask it.

The sketches thus collected, being written out at leisure
hours in the manner first described, exclusively for my own
use and several friends, by writing them in a simple, plain,
plantation manner, reserving to each State, County and
City their respective scenery as [passed them on my route.
In this same manner they are olfered to the public, with-
out even being written over again or revised for the press;
so that the author, for the purpose of dividing the sketches
into chapters, was compelled to insert strips of paper, on
each of which was written the contents of the chapter,
which is of itself a convincing proof that the sketches were
not originally designed for the public. Had the author de-
signed the materials even thus hastily collected, for the
public eye, he would have prepared them in a different
manner, and not have given them to the gaze of the world
in the manner here presented.

The hurried manner in which these sketches were col-
lected and (heir private design, it is hoped wiil be a suffi-
cient apology for the style in which they are prepared, in
noticing many cities, towns, villages, and perhaps some
other objects, which might be considered by some, as be-
ing more wearisome and tedious than interesting and use-
ful, and also for such remarks as may be found in the work,
together with the absence of proper language and correct
spelling ; for the absence of capital letters at proper pla-
ces ; the classification of correct sentences, &c. ; and for
the presence of such errors as may be found in this little
volume. THE AUTHOR.

New Hope, Va , 1849.

ibosc sia-
trnej for
id people

. at leisure

or my ow"
iple, plain,
lomity and
11 my route,
iblic, wiil»-
i- the prP98 ;
he sketches
)f paper, on
he chapter,
etches were
16 author de-
nted, foi- l^^e
a different

of the world

rs were col-
|iil be a sufh-
prepared, in
erhaps some
some, as be-
lting and use-
din the work,
and correct
[t proper pla-
l&c. ; and for
in this little
AUTHOR.

CONTENTS.

PkErACB, Page 3.

C H A P T E R I.

District of Columbia.

Aspect of the District; site and plan of the city of Washington ;
west front of the Capitul ; jMonument ; east front of the Ciipi-
lol ; Btatuo of Washington ; statue of Coluinbns ; rehevos ;
statues of pence and war ; Capitol ; rotundo ; paintings ; relie-
vos ; Hall of lleprescntatives ; SiMiate Chamber ; central dome;
President's House ; War and Navy departments; State and
Treasury departments; Post (3(Hce department ; Patent OtHce;
National Museum ; clothes and dishes ot General Washing-
ton ; Printmg Press of Dr. Franklin; Navy-Yard; Columbia
College ; Congressional burial-ground ; Georgetown ; Catholic
College ; National Observatory, 10

CHAPTER II.

Stato of Maryland.

Aspect of the State ; Villages; Annapolis; Old Sta House,
Baltimore; Washington Monument; Battle Monumejit; Ex-
change ; City Hall ; State Penitentiary ; University ; Cathe-
dral ; Hospital ; Washington Medical College; Commerce;
Manufactures; Fort M'llenry ; Chesapeake Bay; North
Point, • 32

CHAPTER III.
State of Delaware.

A^ipect of the State; Swamps; Fruit Trees; Chesapeake and
Delaware Canal ; New Castle ; Wilmington ; Manufactures ;
Arsenal ; Hospital, 38

r H A PT K U [ V^.

State of New Jcis::y.

Afjiert of llift Sljito ; lied rJaiik ; INIml Isl.iiul ; C.'atndcn ; Hiir-
linirtou ; Bvr«k!n>uwii , Into rc>«iilt mpo ol Jonrpli Monupart'c ;
IMaiiiH ofMoiimoutli -, Sonlli Aiuboy ; yiniit of Aiulmy, . 4'2

CHAP T E R V.

State of Now York.

Asppct of llio State ; City of New York ; nnfural advnntajres of
the cily ; throng's of peojile ; C'ity Hall ; vi«w from the cupo-
la ; Exchange ; Astor House; Custom House; Halls of Juk-
ticG ; Post Olfico ; IJattcry ; Union Park ; Castle Garden } ^^^
hunbia Colleije ; Hosj)ital ; Asylum ; University, 47

C H A P T E R V I.

American Museum ; jjreat eoUeclion of curiosities ; Paintinjrs ;
Sfriptural statuary ; Jewish Saidiedrim ; High Priest; Cai-
])has ; dress of the Hig!i IMcsIs ; Scrihos and Lawyer; Bar-
rahbas ; executioners ; figure of the Saviour; llomni. Council ;
l*oulius Pilate ; Pilate's wife ; Mcsius Quintus ; position of tho
Council ; Homan guards; Scriptural sketch ; atlecti»g scene ;
<leath warrant of Jesus ; sketcli of its discovery ; HalJ of Re-
cords, 58

C II A P T E R V I T.

KiVecis ofsteaiTi ; book bindery ; Arsenal ; Trinity Church ; Graoo
Church; INIonunu'iils ; Broadway Tabeinacdc ; Croton water-
works; Coaches ; Brooklyn ; Atlantic dock ; (Irocnwood cem-
etery ; East river, , 74

C II A P T E R V J I T,

Departure ; competition on the Hudson; Tarrytown ; Sleepy
Jlollow ; Siiig-Sino; ; pros^pcrt ; Slate Pnspp : Palisades; Sto-

C » N I F. N T i^ .

MM.

Icn ; Hnr-
lonuj»art« ;
kl.oy, . 4-i

ilio cupo-
11s of Juv-
II r den V ^®*

.... 47

Paitituijra ;

riesl -, Cai-
wyer ; Bar-

I. Covincil ;

itiou ot'lho
ctiMij acene ;

lull of Re-

. . . r»8

nrdi ; Graoo
rot on watcr-
inwood cein-
.... 74

,\vn; Sleepy
ilisadcs: Sto-

tt3 Voinl; Hifclorical sketcli ; moimtnin peaks ; HtiHiCMinloa
Miiui Montgomery; West Point; Military Academy ; Halls and
?MuldiiiirK ; Fort irteations ; delightful lo(ali«n ; MoHvirrwnt of
l\«HkiMBk«; n»onBtain peaks ; iVcwHurg; towns; Hudson city;
Mbipping; Alliens: Catskill ; (^atskill mountain ; hotel ; proe-
pcct, 82

€ 11 A P T E U 1 X,

All>Any ; Krio nnd Champlain canals ; basin ; bo.i ts ; sito of Al-
bany ; Heights ; prospect ; Capitol nqiiare ; City Hall ; Stato
Hall ; Academies ; Capitol ; public buildings ; old biiiklings ;
public 6<iuares ; streets ; Greenbush ; railroads ; Troy ; public
buildtags; iastitutions ; manufactures; steamboats-, water
power; railroads 4 streets ; Mounts Olympus and Ida; pr»8-
poct ; landslip; Quaker village ; dress and niodo of worship ;
scenory of the Hudson; departure for Butlulo, 93

C H A P T K R X,

Schenectady; lii^torical sketch ; Mo! awk valley; Ericcar^al^
bridge ; Union College ; towns ; Litllo Falls; Utica ; sito of
fort Schuyler ; historical sketch; Lujiatic Asylum; bridges;
plains of Oriskany ; Trenton Falls ; in)poslng scenery ; Rome :
r«flecii<»ns on the great progress of the country ; towns ; Syra-
cuse 4 Saliiia; Onondaga Salt Springs ; towns ; Aubuin ; Stato
Prison ; Cayuga Lake:; bridge ; Seneca Lake ; Seneca Falls ;
villages ; Genesee valley ; Rochester ; great aqueduct ; Gone-
see Falls ; manufactures ; public buildings; Krie canal ; bridg-
es ; high slate of agriculture ; LeRay Falls ; toAvns, . . . 104

CHAPTER XL

BufFalo; loeatton.; destruction by the British; Erie carval ; Lake
Erie; commerce; Breakwater; churches; literary institutions;
Orpliaa Asylum ; high state of agriculture ; dwelling-hous€s8 ;
glairy houses; barns; tanks; muck heap; bam yards; raa-
jHures ; reflections ; ashes ; mode of using ashcp; lime ; agency
c^hmc \ modes of using lime;, mode of preparing land ib;

V (

5 I

VIII

V. O N T E N T ».

wheat ; advantages ofsub-aoil plowing ; kinds of wheat; vprinjf
crops; rotation in crops; ruuiarks on the state ofagticulture,
121

C H A P T E R X T I .

Theory of pastuie lands; pasturing meadows; clover ; timothy ;
fttoding stock ; steaming apparatus ; plows ; drill barrows ; roll-
ers ; under-draining ; advantages of under-draining lands ; Ca-
nadian thistle ; hirds; cutting timber; planting fruit trees;
mode of culture ; pruning; kinds of fruit, 140

CHAPTER X I T T.

Education of the farmer ; hospitality ; desire for agricultural
knowledge; remarks on the progress and science of agricul-
ture ; daparture for Niagaia Falls ; black rock ; Niagara river ;
ferry boat ; approach of the Falls from black rock ; Navy Isl-
and ; bridge ; American rapid ; Goat Island ; Great or llorse-
ShoeFall; narrow rapid ; tower; grand scene; platform on
the verge of the American fall ; Point View garden; Chinese
Pagoda and Camera Obscura; delightful prospect ; ferry stair-
case; foot of the American fall; ferry boat ; towering cliffs;
sublime scene ; Canadian shore ; table rock ; prospect ; foot of
the Horse-Shoe fall ; passing behind the fall ; terrific sands;
height of the fall ; recession of the cataract, 154

CHAPTER XIV.

Remarks on the recession of the fall ; Goat Island ; old deserted
channel ; Dovirs hole ; Bloody run; excavation; plains of
Chippewa ; historical sketch ; burning springs ; village of Ni-
agara ; departure ; suspension bridge ; whirlpool rapids ; Ro-
man's run; awful scene; Lewiston ; Indians; Queenstown
1 eights ; Brock ,8 monument ; prospect ; VVelland canal ; Lake
Ontario ; refraction or mirage^; Toronto ; high ridge ; military
importance of Toronto ; beauties of Lake Ontario ; ducks and
loons ; Oswego ; manufactures ; steamer British Empire ; SacH-
et's harbour, 17*^

C O N T n N T » .

C H A P T F: R X V.

Cppor Canada.

Departure for C Miada ; Kingston ; Ridcuii and Circnvillo Cuniil ;
Wolf and Long Islands ; roint llenry ; harbour ; naval depot ;
Plateau ; magnificent view ; bridgu ; streets ; fortifications ;
public buildings ; granite icgion ; Lake Cataraqui or Thousand
Isles ; picturesque scenery; fright of the passengers; river St.
Lawrence ; Johnstown district ; Brockville ; Ogdensburg ; ru-
ins of Prescott; late Canadian revolt ; New York Sympathi-
zers ; wind-mill ; Eastern District ; cities and towns ; Corn-
wall ; complaints against the New York sympathizers; Lake
St. Francis; Coteau du Lac ; Capcade rapids; scenery; iiver
St. Lawrence; Lake St. Louis, 185

CHAPTER XVI.

Lower Canada.

La Chien ; approach to Montreal ; French language ; French
porters ; Ottawa hotel ; Montreal ; location ; Montreal moun-
tain ; Cote de Neige ; prospect ; marine shell ; St. Henri ; Cote
St. Pierre ; trade ; wharves ; St. Patrick Church ; French Ca-
thedral ; towns ; banking house ; Provmcia) Capitol ; Hall of
Representatives ; rotundo : paintings ; fortifications ; deser-
tion ; Guard-house ; Nelson monument; streets; Canadian
horse ; cab ; rapid gait of driving horses ; scene on the wharves;
Island of Montreal ; high state of cultivation ; country dwel-
lings ; barns ; fences ; departure ; steamer Lord Sydenham, 192

CHAPTER XVII.

Lake St. Peter; alluvial flats; city of Three Rivers ; cities and
towns ; approach of Quebec ; Point Levi ; Cape Diamond ; Isl-
and of Orleans ; river St. Lawrence ; harbour ; Quebec ; Albi-
on hotel ; walls of the city ; houses ; streets ; beggars ; French
guide ; permit ; approach t-* the Citadel ; redoubts ; entrance
into the Citadel ; British cifHcer ; East wall; irnpresnions of
1*

1 <

X t ; o N T 1.: N r > .

cannon shot; lifM<:jlit of thn C'ita<lol ahove the St. Lawrenco ;
West Will! ; hattory ; plains of Abrahain ; North wall ; South
Wall ; arsenal ; inajrnificcnt view ; grand scenery ; strength of
tincbcc ; well of water ; barracks ; Scotch soldiers; singular
dress ; coldness of the weather ; guard-house ; secret redoubt ;
heights of Abraham ; ascent of Wolf ; strange incidents con-
nofted with this aftair; battle-ground; Wolf's monument;
teams of dogs ; Governor's garden ; monamenl, 202

CHAP T E R X V T I I.

C'athedial ; wealth of the Catholic church ; Seminary Chapel;
Romanism ; Catholic procession ; remark ; Indian Lorette and
Nunnery ; grand battery ; death of Montgomery ; Santan
Matelot ; historical sketch ; surrender of the Americans, 216

CHAPTER XIX.

Excursion to the country ; French peasants ; Lakes ; products of
the country ; Falls of Montmoiency ; faciorres ; Bublime sce-
nery ; Beauport ; St. Michael ; return to Quebec ; indications
of winter ; departure of the fleet ; Canadian winter ; streets of
Quebec ; dress in winter ; high charges in Quebec ; departure;
Chaudier Falls; arrival at Three River ; Falls of Maskinon-
go ; Jacques Cartier river ; return to Montreal ; politeness of
the French ; theatre ; departure ; distant view of Montreal ;
beauties of the St. Lawrence; La Prairie ; barracks ; aspect of
the country ; St. John^s ; historical sketch ; swallows; steamer
Turlington, 224

CHAPTER XX.

State of New York.

Lake Champlain ; fortifications ; boundary liiite ; Custom house
officer ; Mount Marcy ; Mount Mansfield ; majestic scenery ;
Canadian soldier ; M'Dono ugh 's capture of the British fleet;
Plattsburg ; Port Kent ; Boulder formation ; chasm ; water
falls ; White Hall ; railroads, , ... 235

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXL

Fort Anne; Sandy Hill ; Champlain canal ; uprooting stumps
by an engine ; Glen's Falls ; bridge ; caverns ; manufactures ;
marble quarries ; village of Glen's Falls : Fort Edward ; Sar-
atoga Springs; village of Saratoga; streets; siiade trees;
groves ; hotels ; mineral waters ; great popularity of the wa-
ters ; liigh rock spring; academy ; churches ; dwellings ; bow-
ling alleys; circular railway ; cemetery ; monument ; Sarato-
ga Lake, 239

CHAPTER XXI T.

Bemis's heights; historical sketch; last battle of Arnold ii) the
cause of American freedom ; anecdote of General Gates ;
Conway Cabal ; Stillwater ; Lake Georfire ; Alexandria ; Ti-
condoroga ; Crown Point, 948

CHAPTER X X I I T.

State of Vermont.

Aspect of the State ; grazing; Vergennes; Burlington ; Univer-
sity ; streets; harbour ; manufactures ; green mountains ; On-
ion river valley ; towns ; agriculture ; Montpelier ; mountain
scenery ; State House ; towns ; barns; feeding stock; sheep
barn ; racks or mangers ; treatment of sheep ; dairy ; milk
barn ^ treatment of milk oows; butter ; cheese room; maple
sugar ; sugar camp, SJ53

CHAPTER XXIV.

State of New Hampshire.

Aspect of the State ; distant view of the White Mountains ; vil-
lages ; White Mountains ; Mount Washington ; ascent to the
summit; sublime scenery; notch; river Saco; unequalled
character of the scenery ; course of the river Saco ; wildnesa
oftho region ; towns ; Lake Winnipisoogee, 26G

Xll

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXV.

State of Maine.

Aspect of the State — Sabago pond — towns — Portland — streets —

City Hall — Custom House — Churches — Athenaeum — harbour

— fortifications — break-water — light-house — observatory —

commerce — turtle shell — railroad bridge — -hotel — steamer

General Warren — effects of the sea breeze — cities — Augusta

— State House — arsenal — towns — Bangor — manufactures —

bridge — lumber — Theological Seminary — Old Town — Calais

— dense fogs — river St. Croix — forests — St. Andrews — fishc-

rios — St. John — wharves — lumber— ship building — coal fields,
2T0

C H x\ P T E R X X V I.

K
'-

i^^ r

Nova Scotia.

BayofFundy — Peninsula of Nova Scotia — Annqj»olis — cliffs —
red mud — foot prints of birds — muddy waters of the bay of
Fundy — Cape Blomidon — high tides of the bay of Fundy — the
Bore — awful grandeur of the Bore — embankments — cliffs of
sandstone — parallel furrows in sandstone — latitude — masses of
ice — Basin of Mines — Minudie — cliffs of South Joggins —
height of the cliff— grindstone ledges — erect fossil trees — coal
seams — various ledges of the cliff— number of the fossil trees
— destructive action of the tides of the Bay of Fundy — hasty
conclusion as to the formation of the cliff, 281

CHAPTER XXVII.

Second arrival at Minudie — departure — Windsor — potatoes —
/culture — harvesting and storing potatoes — Horton Bluff— gyp-
sum — Big Kock — Rosens Point — gypsiferous series— blue no-
ses — Ardoise hills — foggy regions — Kalmid — sterility of the
southern portion of Nova Scotia — progress of the country —
inhabitants — Highland settlers — political dissatisfaction — Hal-
ifax>— surrounding scenery — Museum — commerce — departure

CONTENT?.

Xlll

streets —
-harbour
atory —
-steamer
-Augusta
ctures —
1 — Calais
i;s — fishc-
oal fields,
. . . 2T0

B — cliffs —
le bay of
undy — the
cliffs of
masses of
Joggins —
rees — coal
bssil trees
dy — hasty
. . 281

jotatocs —
Jluff— gyp-
—blue no-
lity of the
country —
tion— Hal-
-departure

for Massachusetts — dense fogs — the ocean — the tempest —
sublimity of the ocean, 292

CHAPTER XXVII I.

State of Massachnsctts.

Green mountain range — agriculture — shipping — aspect of the
State— railroads — remarks on the past history of the State —
Gloucester — Cape Anne — Salem — trade — East India Marine
Society — witchcraft — historical sketch — remark on the delu-
sion of the Colony— Lynn, 303

CHAPTER XXIX.

Boston — site of Boston— harbour — bridges— State House — statue
of Washington— four large marble slabs from the Beacon hill
moniimpn+, with inscriptions —representatives hall — devices
and inscriptions— dome — senate chamber — arms of the State
— cap of Liberty — number of rooms — height of the cupola —
regulations— objects seen from the north window of the cupo-
la — from the east window— from the south window — from the
west window, 310

CHAPTER XXX.

Faneuil hall — view from the cupola— old buildings— paintings —
Quincy market — Custom House— order of architecture— mu-
seum— Massachusetts General Hospital — Court House— Old
State House — houses of industry, correction and reformation —
Athenaeum — institution for the blind— eye and ear infirmary —
Trinity Church — St. Paul's Church — Park street Church-
bridges— wharves — Boston Common— valuation of the common
— remark — cemetery — pond — great elm tree, ....,., 396

CHAPTER XXX L

Celebration of the 4th of July— order of the procession— the af-
ternoon — colours — national salute~sky-rork«tK — position a nrj

XIV

(; o >J T n N T » .

appearance of the apparatuses connected vyitli the fire-wo^ks
—commencement of the chief part of the fire-works— spoiitinir
fire — circle ofstars — statues, dome, American eagle and ban-
ners — sugar refinery — a portion of the various apparatuses and
processes connected with the refining establishment, . . 340

C H A P T E R XXXI T.

Charleston— Bunker-Hill— Bunker-IIill Monument— commence-
ment of the monument — cost of the ground — enclosure— west
front — windows — charming prospect— remark — lightning rods
— cost of the monument— Navy- Yard — ship houses— frigate
Constitution — Dry Dock— park of artill<»ry — park of anchors —
singular gun — rope walk— marine and naval hospital-Win-
ter Hill, 353

CHAPTER XXXIII.

1^ [

Cambridge Harvard University — Professors— examination of ihe
students— education in Massachusetts— bequests and donations
— popular libraries— heavy sale of books — education law— pop-
ularity of Professors and Tutors — Bible — Lexington — Monu-
ment—towns — Lowell — manufactures — number of mills — cap-
ital invested — number of operatives — number of schools — bank-
ing institutions — Mr. John Lowell— Merrimack valley — towns,
362

CHAPTER XXXIV.

re-

state of New Hampshire.

Nashua — manufactures — towns— Manchester — streets— buildings
— Falls of Amoskeag — manufactupes— sad accident — labour of
the operatives compared with slave labour of the South — abo-
litionists of New England — emancipation of slavery — villages
—Concord— bridges— State House— State Prison- -Merrimack
Falh— railroads- rclurn to Boston 373

< J O N 1 K N T » .

»-wo?ks
poutini?
nd ban-
iisos an<l
. . 340

ninence-
rc— west
inff rods
{—frigate
inchors —
il--Win-
. . . 353

ion of ilio
donations
law— pop-
1— Monu-
iills— cap-
jls— bank-
y— towns,
. . 362

C HAP 1' K U X X X V.

State of lUIassachnsetts.

Second arrival in Boston— Greek Slave— Sunday Schools— e-
quality of persons— liorses— Dorchester heights — prospect —
Qiiincy— old mansion of John Adams— Unitarian Church —
tomb of John Adams- -Quincy Church yard— tomb of John Q.
Adams, 386

CHAPTER X X X V T.

liOW lands— towns— Plymouth" Rock of Plymouth— remark-
Pilgrim Hall -contrast between iVprth and South America -
Cape Cod — Barnstable — Yarmouth— Martha's Vineyard— Ed-
garton — wine grapes— Gay head — green sand — shell-— shark
teeth— Indians — sea breeze — ponds — -spotted tortoise — Vine-
yard Sound — King Crab, 39.j

CHAPTER XXXVII.

State of Rhode IsHand.

Aspect of the Southern part of the State — Newport— harbour-
fortifications— fisheries — Narragansett Bay — Mount Hope —
King Philip — Warvvick — Providence— harbour — State House
— Dexter Asylum — Friend's Academy— Arcade— Brown Uni-
versity— Athenaenm— Churches — Roger Williams— manufac-
tures— railroads— Blackstone Canal— towns 401

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

-buildings
-labour of
uth— abo-
(T— villages
VIorrimack
... 373

State of Massachusetts.

Third arrival in the State— towns— Worcester— railroads— State
Lunatic Asylum — Antiquarian Hall — villages — Brooktield —
towns — Springfield — state of agriculture- United States Ar-
mory — gardens— cranberry peas and beans — culture — hedges
— fences —posts, 40C

XVI

C O N T E N r ? .

h-'

CHAPTER XXXIX.

State of Connecticnt.

Connecticut valley — ponds — Connecticut river— high standard of
agriculture— equality of persons— birds— delightful Ecenery—
shade trees — the grape — gardens — screen or hurdle — unfenced
portion of the valley— sunken fence — villages — Connecticut
bridge — dwelling-houses — Hartford— State House — City Hall
— Trinity College — Athenaeum — American Asylum — retreat
for the Insane — manufactures — Rockv Hill — historical sketch
— towns — barren sand— New Haven— harbour — State House
— State Hospital — -Yale College — mineralogical cabinet —
Trumbull gallery — gardens — streets — avenues of shade trees —
public square — remark — public cemetery — East Rock — pros
pect— humming-birds— long wharf— commerce, 412

CHAPTER XL.
State of New York.

Long Island Sound — scenery — beauties of Long Island Sound —
approach of the city of New York— the country— shipping of
the city of New York — horses— battery — prospect, .... 424

CHAPTER XLI.
State of New Jersey.

Jersey City — Newark — Manufactures — Elizabethtown — Marshy
Lands — Villages — New Brunswick — Rutger's College — Th«
ological Seminary — Bridge — Dean's Pond — Princeton College
— Shade Trees — Theological Seminary — Remark — Trenton
— State House — State Prison — Delaware and Raritan Canal
— Falls of the Delaware — Manufactures — Sanpink Bridge 429

CHAPTER XLII.
State of Pennsylvania.

Aspect of the State — Country Buildings — Fences — German pop-

C O N T K N T .< .

XVll

iandard of
ccenery—
-unfenced
onnecticut

-City Hall
m— retreat
ical sketch
^te House
cabinet-—
lade trees-
Rock— pros
. . . . 412

^nd Sound—
-shipping of
424

own— Marshy
:;ollege— Th»
[iceton College
g^rk__-Trenton
Raritan Canal
ink Bridge 429

ulation — Internal Improvements — Aliens — Towns — Philadel-
phia — Streets — Shade Trees — Old State House — Prospect —
Custom House — Exchange — Order of Architecture — Navy
Yard — Naval Asylum — Alms House — Hospital — Institution
for the Deaf and Dumb— Eastern State Peiiitentiary — Univer-
sity — St. Stephen's Church — Christ's Church-Tomb of Frank-
lin — Girard College — Tickets of Admission — Omnihusses —
l^aurel Hill Cemetery — Fair mount Water- Works — Omnihus-
ses — Bridges — Learned Institutions — Markets — Monument of
the Treaty of Penn — Fire Engines — Vulgar Familiarity — In-
tellectual condition of the People, 435

CHAPTER XLIII.

Inclined Plane — Norristown — Bridge — Manufactures Valley

Forge — Anecdote of Baron Steuben — Villages — Reading —
German Language — Mountain Gorge — Court House — Man-
ufactures Bridges Union Canal Mountain Scenery

Towns — Pottsville Coal Trade Manufactures Lehigh

Coal — Mountains — Forests Sweet Fern Lehigh Summit

Mine — Railroad — Mules — Interesting Scenery Towns

Hairisburg — Streets — Prospect — State House Panoramic

View — Court House — Susquehanna River — Sublime Scenery
— Governor Shunk — Political Excitement — Cumberland Val-
ley — Carlisle — Dickinson College — Streets — Chambersburg —
Court House — Manufactures, 450

CHAPTER XLIV.

State of Maryland.

Deep Cut — Sliding of the banks — Dirt cars — Hagerslown — Stage
Coach — Williamsport — Conecocheague river — Aqueduct— Po-
tomac river — Arrival at Winchester — General course of the
Route — Aspect of the Route — Review of the Middle and
Eastern States, 461

—German pop-

i- 1

h- {

C H A P T E R I.

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.

Aspect of Ujc District— Site and plan of the city of Washington
—West front of the Capitol — Monument^East front of the
Capitol — Statue of Washington — Statue of Columbus — Ilelie-
▼ps — Hall of Representatives-Senate Chanrber-Central domo
—President's House — War and Navy departments — State and
Treasury departments — Post Office department — Patent Of-
fice—National Museum — Clothes and dishes of Gen. Wash-
ington — Priniinjg Press of Dr. Franklin — Navy- Yard —Colum-
bia College — Congressional burial-ground — Georgetown' —
Catholic College — National Observatory..

Tins District, in which is situated the city oi Wash-
ington, the seat of the Federal government, is a tract
often miles square, embracing within its area the con-
fluence ot the east and west branches of the noble Po-
tomac. It is divided into two counties, Washington
and Alexandria, and contains two cities, Washington
and Georgetown. The whole district is under the im-
mediate control of Congress, and therefore is not rep-
resented in that body. This spot it is said, was select-
ed by General Washington, as a proper site for the
Capitol, as the most central place on the Atlantic bor-

i i

WAtHINGTON ( IT\'.

(ler, being midway between Maine and Florida, and
being also at the head ol the navigation of a great riv-
er. He observed that all the other principal cities
eastward of the Alleghany mountains, had sprung up
on similar sites.

The city of Washington is situated on the east side
of the Potomac, one hundred and twenty miles from its
mouth, at the point of junction of the two branches, to
which the river is navigable for ships of the line. —
The city was laid out under the superintendence of
the great man whose name it bears, in 1791, and be-
came the seat of government in the year 1800. The
plan of the city combines regularity with variety, and
is adapted to the variations of the surface, so that the
spaces allotted to public buildings, occupy command-
ing positions, and the monotonous sameness of a rec-
tangular design is avoided, while all its advantages are
secured.

The plan of the city is extensive as well as beautiful.
The minor streets run at riojht angles, but the larger
avenues diverge like rays from several centres, inter-
secting the streets with various degrees of obliquity,
and opening spaces for extensive squares. The smal-
ler streets all run in Ihe direction of the four cardinal
points of the compass, and are from ninety to one hun-
dred feet wide. The grand avenues, bearing the names
of the several States of the Union, are from 130 to 160
feet wide, bordered with trees of the choicest species.
Many ol these avenues terminate on the hill on which
is situated the Capitol, from which they diverge like
rays from a centre,

^*'EST fflONT OF THE CAPITOL.

UVa, and
real riv-
lal cities
)rung up

, east side
,-8 Irom its
■anchesjto

le lin^« —
ndence of
1, and be-
800. The
ariety, and
30 that the
command-
8S of a rec-
^antages are

as beautiful.

the larger
ntres, inter-
of obliquity,
The smal-
four cardinal
^ to one hun-
jig the names
.nTlSOtolGO
Dicest species,
hill on which

diverge like

In approaching the Capitol from the city, you as-
cend the beautiful emmence on which it is situated, by
passing through the western square or public grounds,
in which are laid out many public walk?, the whole
adorned with the most graceful trees and the choicest
species of shrubbery. The principal walk is beauti-
iully paved with large blocks of grey granite, it being
about twenty-five feet wide. On this you approach
the building, till within about fifty yards, when you
ascend two flights of stone steps, having together fifty-
two steps, which brings you to a cistern or reservoir,
walled with granite, and the brim or circumference
surmounted by an iron railing of great beauty.

In the centre of this cistern, stands a very splendid
monument, erected to the memory of the gallant naval
officers, who fell at Tripoli, during the war of 1804.
The monument is adorned by many beautiful and ap-
propriate devices. On the eastern face of this monu-
ment, or that facing the west door of the Capitol, con-
tains the following mscription :

TO THE ME.MOliy OF

Souiers^ Cadivell^ Decatur, Wadesworth, Dorsey,

Israel.

The love of glory inspired them, fame has crowned their
deeds, history records the events, the children of Columbia
admire, and commerce laments their fall.

Between this monument and the Capitol, is the foun-
tain which supplies the cistern with water, which is
of an excellent quality ; as good as I ever drank. The
cistern contains many different kinds of the most beau-
tiful fishes; those attracting the most attention are of a

SIATLE or WAJiMINtitoX.

t .. t

bright rod, buing oCas beautiful a color as Turkey reel.
From the level of the fountain, a flight of eleven stone
ateps will bring you to the floor of the west portico.

In apjiroaching the Capitol from the east, you pass
through capitol square, containing 22 acres, also taste-
fully and handsomely adorned with shade trees. This
front of the structure is all that is Imposing, grand and
sublime in art. The first thing to which the attention
is drawn, is the statue of Washington, mounted on a
pedestal of about eight feet square and about twelve
feet high, on the east face of which is the following
inscription :

Shnulaprum htud

al Magnum Lihrrlatis cxcmplum Nic Sine Ipsa Duratiuin.

Iloralifis (hcnough Facicbat.

This inscription is very beautifully wrought, the letters

being large and plain, and present a scene well worthy

of admiration. What the diflferent interpretations are,

and how many different constructions this inscription

will bear, I am unable to say. The best English that

I am able to make of it is the following :

This Statue,
To the great example, ami to the duration of Liberty.

I I or alius made it.

On this pedestal is situated the statue of Washington,
representing him sitting in an arm-chair, in his left
hand a sword or dagger, with the hilt foremost, indi-
cating perhaps, that no soonsr were the enemies of
Liberty conquered, than he was ready and willing to
surrender his sword and commission to the people. —
His right hand extended upward, pointing with the fin-
<rer toward Heaven, the true indication of which I do

S T A r I! E * .

key rf(\'
;en stone
ortico.
you pass
Iso taste-
es. This
a rand and

3 attention

nted on a

,ut twelve

following

i Daratiuni.

:, the letters
veil worthy
stations are,
inscription
English that

./ Liberty-

Washington,
•, in his left
remost, indi-
enemies of
id willing to
;he people. —
r with the fin-
jf which I do

not profe:Jo to understand ; it may however, with some
propriety be construed to indicate several things, — it
may indicate that LiutTty, Civilization, the Arts and
Sciences will be over upward and onward ; or it may
indicate to this nation, to become truly wise and great,
they should worship and obey that Deity whom he a-
(lored. The whole statui is a large and powerful fig-
ure, well sculptured, of a good quality of marble, ex-
cept on the throat, directly under the chin, where it
has the appearance of being defective. Whether this
was sculptured in imitation of the disease of which he
died, or whether it was a defect of the marble I was
unable to learn. I am however inclined to think the
latter is the true cause.

On a platform immcdiataly in front of the portico,
on a level with its floor, at a height of about eighteen
feet, are placed two statues, one of which represents
Columbus, with his right hand extended, on which is
placed a globe, which may perhaps indicate, that this
was the figure he considered the earth to possess, at a
time when all the world was arrayed against him, hurl-
ing their scorn at him for his belief.

At his right hand and near the globe, is the statue
of a female Indian, looking in the face of the stern old
Prince of the Ocean. She is standing in a position as
if about to retire, as much as to say, "let us retire to
the far west, that this wilderness may blossom as a
rose, and become the home of the free and the land of
the brave." These two statues ha\% no inscriptions on
them, except the name of the artist, L» Persico.

On the front or liable of the portico, about forty feet

€'

•I ■•■

ii ;

i!i

STATUES.

above these statues, may be seen three beautiful re-
lievos, representing Washington in the centre, and on
his right hand the figure of a man holding up his right
hand, in his left an anchor ; on the left ot Washing-
ton, a female figure, in her right hand a shield, in her
left the scale of Justice, holding it up at arm's length.
These relievos contain no other inscription than the
name, L. Persico.

By ascending a flight of thirty-six stone steps, you
arrive in the east portico, where your attention is im-
mediately arrested by three very beautiful relievos
just above the door, being situated in a niche. This
represents Washington between two Cherubs, each
holding over his head a wreath. This presents a scene
grand and imposing, and are the handsomest relievos
of the Capitol, being sculptured by the celebrated A.
Chapellano.

On your right hand, when facing the door, in a
great curve or niche in the wall, is placed the statue
of the God of War, a strong and powerful figure in
Roman armor. On the left, in a like curve or niche,
is placed the Goddess of Peace, holding in her hand
the olive-branch of peace. Both of these statues are
constructed of a very superior quality of marble, and
wrought in a most masterly style. These statues are
perhaps to indicate to the world, that the motto of the
nation is peace and friendship with all nations — ask
nothing but what is right, and submit to nothing that
is wrong-, national rights, liberty and justice being
hers, each of wliich she will have even at the point of
the sword.

'^At'lTOt.

iful ro-
and on
lis right
rashing-
1, in her
s length,
than the

Leps, you
ion is im-
l relievos
he. This
•ubs, each
nts a scene
st relievos
ibrated A.

ioor, in a
the statue
figure in
or niche,
her hand
statues are
larble, and
statues are
lotto of the
itions — -ask
.thing that
stice being
ihe point oi

iThe Capitol is a large, magnificent structure, of
freestone painted white, beir ^ three hundred and fifty*
two feet long, and one hundred and twenty-one feet
deep. It is of the Corinthian order of architecture,
being built in the shape of a cross, with the Represen*-
tatives Hall and the Senate Chamber In the two wings,
and a spacious rotundo in the centre, ninety-six feet
in diameter and ninety-six feet high to the top of th6
dome* The sound of a single voice, uttered in this a-
partment, is echoed from the top of the dome above,
with a rumbling like distant thunder. The rotundo is
constructed of white marble, and the floor beautifully
tesselated with the sam<i material, giving an imposing
effect.

The walls are adorned with a scries of national paint*
ings by Trumbull, among which are the Declaration of
Independence, Baptism of Pocahontas, Landing of the
Pilgrims on the Rock of Plymouth, Landing of Colum-
bus, First Congress at Annapolis, Surrender of Bur*
goyne at Saratoga, Surrender of Cornwallis at York-
town, Sec. There are also many other paintings situ-
ated below those abovi? noticed, among which may be
named a very splendid full length portrait of General
Taylor and horse,— -also portraits of Worth, Shields,
and many other heroes of the Mexican war. Above
the national paintings ate four relievos, placed at equal
distances, representing the landing at Plymouth, the
treaty between Penn and the Indians, the preservation
n*' Smith by Pocahontas and the adventure of Boone
with two Indians.

The HallofRcpreiicnialiveiiis in the muUi wing of Ih^

HALL or ilEl'JlfiSlINTATiVES^

•tracture* Its form is semicircular, being ninely-fiva
feet in length and sixty feet in height, lighted from the
top by a dome. The gallery is also of a semicircuTar
iorm and supported by thirty columns. Across the di-
ameter of this semicircle, in rear of the Speaker's chair,
are eiorht columns: immediately in tbeir front, on the
Speaker's right and left are six smaller ones, all of
which are highly polished. The hall has quite a grand
and imposing effect, being adorned with many statues,
relievos and other appropriate and highly finished de-
vices. Here I heard a spirited discussion between Mr-
Ramsey of New York, and Mr. Roman of Maryland,
on a question involving slaves as property. The hall
contains seats for two hundred and thirty-four members,
which were generally occupied ; and much decorum
prevailed for such a large legislative body. The de-
corum presented by this large assembly is not to be
wondered at, when guided by such a towering mind
as that of Mr. Winthrop, their Speaker • who appears
to be not only an ornament to the body over which he
presides, but to the whale of the American people.

The Senate Chamber is the same shape of the Hall
bf Representatives, being a little smaller. It is seven-
ty-five feet long. The gallery of this is supported by
thirty columns. In rear of the President's chair is sit-
uated the reporters gallery, which is supported by foKir
square and eight round columns, the square ones beincr
immediately in rear of the President's chair. Among
the many splendid and appropriate devices which a-
dorn this Chamber, may be named that rich and gaudy
curtain which overshadows the President's chair, crown-

SENATE ClUMnKR.

iiely-fivflf
from the
licircutaf
3SS the di-
jr'f chair,
t, on the
e«> all of
f e a grand
ly statues,
nished dc-
tween Mr-
Maryland,
The hall
r members,
h decorum
The de-
not to be
ering mind
rho appears
T which he
people.
,f the Hall
It is seven-
pported by
chair is sit-
>rted by f<*ur
ones being
ir. Among
IS which a-
h and gaudy
hair, crown-

ed with the American Eagle with expanded wing«,
looking down and watching all their deliberations.

The Chamber contains seats for filty-fix members,
and in their deliberations the greatest decorum prevails.
This however, could not be otherwis^e was there a dis-
position on the part of any member to do so, he could
not transcend the limits of decorum in the presence of
that dignified and venerable old gentleman, Mr, Dal-
las, who presides over their body — whose white head,
handsome person, keen and intelligent eye, added to
his deportment, will inspire the admiration of all.

In this Chamber I heard a discussion three successive
days, on the Yucatan bill. Mr. Cass of Michigan, and
Mr. Foote of Mississippi, for the bill, and Mr. Miller of
New Jersey, and Mr. Calhoun of South Carolina a-
gainst it. The day on which Mr. Calhoun spoke the
galleries were crowded to overflowing ; many persons
being excluded for the want of room, from hearing an
oration clothed with the animating fire of a Homer,
and the thrilling eloquence of a Demosthenes. It was
with no little delight I listened with others, in the still-
ness of the Chamber, to the thrilling words as they
dropped from the lips of this great Cicero of the A-
merican Senate.

In the west adjoining the rotundo, is the Library of
Congress, containing sixteen thousand volumes, placed
in a hall ninety-t .vo feet high. I now ascended to the
top of the central dome, which is one hundred and
twenty feet from the ground. From this place a beau-
tiful prospect is presented t© view : embracing th«

Potomac 1

many

all

! i

president's iiousi:

the pleasing diversity o-f landscape scenery upon 1(3
banks, including large portions ofthe cities oi Alexan-
dria and Georgetown.

At a distance of one and a hall miles west of the
Capitol, on Pennsylvania avenue, is situated the Pres-
ident's House, — which is also built of freestone paint-
ed white, two stories high, with a basement, and has a
front of one hundred and eighty feet, adorned with two
Ionic porticos. It is magnificently iurnished and sur-
rounded with beautiful and extensive grounds. These
grounds are ornamented with the choicest species of
shrubbery and the most graceful trees our country af-
iords. Within the circumference of these grounds are
situated four ofthe offices of the executive department.
On the west are the War and Navy, — in the first of
which can be seen the trophies taken during the wars.
The most singular however, are those taken during tl^e
Tripolitan and Mexicaiji wars : among which are some
brass cannon and other weapons of war, and a number
of banners, some of w^hich are singular enough^ while
others are made of fine and excellent material. A few
paces in ffont ofthe door of this department may be
seen a rocljL of copper ore weighing from iour to five
tons. On the east of the President's flouse^ are th,e
State and Treasury departments, The Igitter is a mas-
sive structure of granite, three hundred and forty-four
feet long, three stories high, together with a lofty base-
ment. The front of the structure has a powerful por-
tico, supported by thirty-one fluted columns about thir-
ty feet high. The same front contains ninety-sthye©
"Svindows, besides ttiirty^one arched windows in the

OFFICES OF Tilt: EXECUTIVE DErAKTMCNTS

pen

lis

t of the
tie Pres-
e paint-
md has a
w'ithtwo
and sur-
. These
pecies of
untry af-
ounds are
partment.
le first of
the wars,
uring the
are some
a number
;hj >yhile
ll. A few
,t may be
lur to five
^ are th,e
is a mas-
forty-ionr
jlofty base-
'erful por-
labout thir-
lety-sthye^
iws in the

basement front. The portico is gained by a flight of
Ihirty-tvvo stone steps. The floors of the whole struo-
iure are a tesselated pas^ement, each one containing
thirty-six rooms, with a beautiful arched passage the
whole length of the building. The structure contains
no less than six pair of circular stairs.

The Post Office department is situated about half
way between the President's House and the Capitol, in
an edifice recently biiilt of white marble, which may
be said to be the most beautiful structure in the city*
It contains forty-two antas on the iront. The building
is about two hundred feet long, two stories high, with
a lofty basement which contains eighteen semicircular
windows. The portico is gained by a flight of thirty-
three stone steps, some of the lower ones of which are
about thirty feet in lengthy The floors are a beautiful
Mosaic, on which stand a number of splendid fluted
columns to bear up the structure.

The Patent Office is situated a short distance to tne
north of the Post Office. It is a beautiful edifice of
freestone, wherein are deposited a rare and highly in-
teresting collection of models. The upper part of this
massive structure is occupied by the National Museum
—where are deposited rare and highly interesting col-
lections of Natural History and other treasures, col-
lected during the voyage of discovery to the Antarctic
regions, the South Seas and California. Among this
valuable repository may be seen the hair, clothes, reg-
imentals, chest and dishes of General Washington ; the
printing-press and cane of Dr. Franklin ; ike nriilitJjry
dress worn by the heroic Jackson at the battle of New

'!t T

I'ATK.NT (jVVU'K — XAVY YARD.

Orleans, &c. This great national repository would
be invaluable at Philadelphia, New York or Boston ;
but here there is no University, no classes of students
in science or literature, no philosophical societies, no
people who seem to have leisure enough to render the
collection as valuable as it would be if situated in some
larger metropolis. The members of Congress rarely
have their town residences in this place ; but leave
their families at home or in large cities, where they
may enjoy perhaps more refined society ; and they
live here in boarding houses until their political duties
and the session is over.

On the eastern side of the city, upon the Anacostia
or east branch of the Potomac, is the Navy Yard, situ-
ated at a distance of three-fourths of a mile from the
Capitol. It contains twenty-seven acres of ground — -
where may be seen massive designs in naval architec-
ture, in viewing which an hour or two may be spent
with considerable interest, where the sound of the
hammer, saw and axe are mingled with the song of
the jolly workmen.

The Columbian College, delightfully situated about
two miles from the Capitol, was incorporated in 1821.
The structure occupied by this institution is handsome
and appropriate. The next object of interest out of
the city, is the Congressional Burial-ground, about two
miles from the Capitol, containing ten acres of ground,
handsomely enclosed with a strong fence co^^dructed
of brick. The ground contains a number of very beau-
tiful tombs and monuments of various styles and height,
some of which co'^sist of very splendid obeJisk shafts

UEORCJETOWN.

would
oslon ',
udents
ies, no
der the
in some
J rarely
it leave
jre they
.nd they
•al duties

Vnacostia

|ard, situ-

from the
rround— -
architec-
be spent
id ol the
e song ot

lited about

ial821.

[handsome

lest out of
] about two

lof ij;round>
n?U"ucted
[very beau-
ind height,
Lisk abaft*

o< considerable height, all wrought with a workman-
ship which cannot fail in attracting the admiration of
the beholder.

Notwithstanding the extent of the city, its popula-
tion is small, being only 23,364 inhabitants. It ap-
pears more like a group of villages than a continuous
city, as the buildings are principally situated in three
different clusters, viz : in the neighborhood of the Cap-
itol, the Navy- Yard and Pennsylvania avenue. The
Potomac, which separates it Irom Alexandria, is cros-
sed by a bridge more than a mile in length. On the
west the city is separated from Georgetown by a flour-
ishing stream called Rock Creek.

Georgetown has a population of 7,312, is situated
three miles west of the Capitol, on a commanding em-
inence, possessing a delightful prospect of the river,
the neighboring city and the diversified country in its
vicinity. The houses are mostly of brick, and the city
is a very thriving place, having considerable commerce;
but the navigation is in a degree obstructed by a bar
just below the town. There is here a cannon foundry,
four banks, seven churches and a Catholic College, said
to be a very respectable institution. On my return to
Washington, I visited the National Observatory, a
high tower on high and commanding ground, affording
a charming view of Washinojton and the surroundino-
cities, embracing a view ol the various scenery bor-*
dering on the winding Potomac for many miles,

;?'•

MARYLAND.

CHAPTER II.

STATE OF MARYLAND.

Aspect of the State — Towns — Annapolis — Old State House —
Baltimoro — Washington Monument — Battle Monument — Ex-
change — City Hall — State Penitentiary — University — Cathe-
dral — Hospital — Washington Medical College — Commerce —
Manufactures— Fort McHenry— Chesapeake Bay-North Point.

In travelling from the city of Washington to French-
town, by the way of Baltimore, I found the maratime
part of the S tate to be penetrated far into the interior
by the Chese^^pake Bay, which like a vast river divides
it into two disti net portions, called the eastern and
western shores. These shores are found to include a
low, level and alluval country, intersected by tide wa-
ter rivers and creeks. The eastern part of the State
being almost cut off by the Chesepeake bay, forms with
the little State of Delaware, a peninsula. The west-
ern shores of the Chesepeake, north and south of the
city of Baltimore, contain some very beautiful lands,
at once fertile and admirably adapted to the growth of
the various kinds of grains and grasses. Above the
tide-waters the land again becomes agreeably undula-
ting. Still farther west commence the Alleghany
Mountains, with their numerous ridges. The vallies
between them are said to be loamy and rich and yield
fine wheat and all the products of the Middle States,
(^n my return route I found broad belts of this admi-
rable soil in Washington county.

Qn the Washington and Annapolis Railroad, about

ANNA POM:*.

L— Ex-
Catbe-
lerce—
1 Point.

rench-

nterior
divides
rn and
;lude a
ide \va-
e State

,s with
|e west-

of the

il lands,

[owth of

lOve the

undula-

leghany
vallies

|nd yield
States,

is admi-

idj about

SIX miles from Washington, is the town of Bladrnsbiirg,
quite a thriving town on a fine site, though situated in
a poor region of countr}'. The country as far as can
be seen from the road, contains much land of an infe-
rior quality, being wooded with scrubby pines, chest-
nut and shrubs, the soil having a pale, cold appearance,
presenting- few attractions in agriculture, and, to all
appearance yielding a small reward ior the labor be-
stowed. Continuing our course north-east, on arriving
in Anne Arundel county, the land was found rapidly
to improve in quality.

Annapolis, with a population of 2,792 agreeably sit-
uated on the west side of the Severn river, two miles
from the Chesepeake Bay, is the capitol of the Stale.
The city is regularly laid out, with the streets diver-
ging from the State House and the Episcopal Church.
The State House is the most beautiful and capacious
edifice in the city. In this venerable old building the
old Conorress held some of their sessions durinor the
Revolution ; and the Senate Chamber in which On,
Washini^ton resio^ned his commission as commander-in-
chief of the American army, has been preserved unal-
tered to this day. Here is also the State Library of
10,000 volumes. The city contains St. John's Col-
lege, which is a branch of the University of Maryland.
The city is well situated to command a large portion
of the commerce of the Chesepeake Bay.

Baltimore, with a population of 102,313,* situated
in a county of the same name, in the year 1752 con-
tained 25 houses. It received a city charter in 1797,

H/cnsiib of 1840,iriven in all rases.

i;ALri:.ioiu:.

;i:id ij now rankLil as the third citv in the United State*
ior population, comnierco and wraith, being admirably
situated as an inland city on the Patapsro river, l^
miles from Chesepeake Bay. The harbour is capacious
and sate, and consists of an inner basin into which ves-
sels of 200 tons can enter, and an outer harbour at
I'ell's Point, accessible to the largest merchant ships.
The entrance i-s commanded by Fort M'Henry.

Objects of attraction. Amongj the first things to
attract the attention of the stranger, is Washington
Monument, at the intersection of Charles and Monu-
ment streets, it being a most splendid structure > It
consists of a Doric column ol white marble, with a cir-
cular staircase inside, by which you ascend to the top
of the column. It is supported by a pedestal, fifty feet
square and twenty-five feet high. The column is 20
feet in diameter at the bottom, 180 ieei high, and sur-
mounted by a colossal statue of the Father of his coun-
try.

The Battle Monument, corner of Calvert and Lafay-
ette streets, built of white marble, 52 foet in height,
was erected m commemoration of the successful de-
fence of the city ao;ainst the British in 1814, and as a
lasting monument to those whose lives were offered up
to secure so glorious a result.

The Court-Housp, corner of Monument square and
Lexington street, is built of marble and brick and is
145 feet long and G5 feet wide. The Merchant's Ex-
change is a large and handsome structure, 366 feet
long by 40 feet wide, with & hall 86 by 53 feet, light-
ed from the top through the dome, which is a delight-

■»

tlAt,TlM«-knK.

.1.1

atci
ably
, U
cious
I ves-
ur at
ships.

ngsto

ington

Monu-

•€, It

1 a cir-

ihe top

fty feet
is 20
nd sur-
s coun-

Lafay-
height,
sful de-
tnd as a
fered up

lare and
and is
Int's Ex-

}66 feet
it, light-
I delight-

i*ul and imposing hall. The City Hall, on Ilulliday
street, is three stofles high and has a portico with tou
massive columns.

The State Penitentiary occupies four acres of ground,
and consists of three large buihlings, surrounded by a
wall 20 [^{'t in height. The University of Maryland,
St. Mary's College, the Maryland Institute and the A*
cademy of Science and Literature are celebrated and
flourishing institutions. The Cathedral is a beautiful
edifice, 190 feet in length and 127 feet high to the top
ot the dome. It is of the Ionic order of architecture,
and contains a very large fme-toned organ. There arc
also 107 large and elegant church edifices.

The Hospital, a large and splendid structure, erect-
ed at a cost of $150,000, and the Alms House are each
well conducted benevolent institutions. The city is
supplied with water from Jone's Falls, whence it is
conveyed to a reservoir on Calvert street, by an aque-
duct half a mile in length. Numerous springs in the
city also, contribute to supply the inhabitants, which
water is generally good ; and even that from the falls
is as good as that usually found in large cities.

Washington Medical College, situated on the south-
east corner ot Market and Hampstead hill streets, on
the most elevated ground within the limits of Balti-
more, and commanding a magnificent view of the Pa-
tapsco river, the city and the surrounding country. —
The buildings are constructed in a style of architecture
which will vie with the proudest collegiate of our land
and is perhaps the most splendid structure in the city.
The buildings of this College will range on Hampstead

3(5

\iAHisuniK,

hill street 195 foot, and consist in part of a circular
centre building about 40 feet in diameter, having four
stories at unequal hei;j;ht, for the convenience of Lec-
ture halls, Library, Museum, Dissecting rooms, kc. —
This part of the edifice is (lanked at four corresponding
equi-distant points, by turrets one story higher, making
this part of the structure six stories from the ground.
These turrets are castellated with obeleisk roofs, and
decorated with beautiful Cothic windows and doors.

The wings are five stories in height, and each GO feet
long by 40 wide. They contain numerous apartments
which are spacious and lofty, affording ample room for
the classification of the patients, and will contain be-
tween three and four hundred beds. The apartments
appropriated to house students, will contain and com-
fortably accommodate about fifty individuals ; and are
most agreeable and inviting to young gentlemen who
may prefer to reside in the College edifice. In other
portions of the building are apartments especially de-
signed for strangers who may be taken sick in the city,
and who prefer being retired from the noise and con-
fusion of a hotel, and wish a place where good nurses,
medical attendance and every convenience contribu-
ting to their comfort, will be provided. This peculiar
feature has rendered this institution very popular with
strangers who have tak^n apartments here, and who
had the attendance of any physician they preferred.
No person with an infectious disease is admitted at all,
and the College presents every feature of one of the
most admirably conducted institutions in our country.

The citizens of Baltimore are not more distinguish-

izel

up
aft

atel

nALTlMORC.

cular
; four
' Lec-

AC. —
nding
aking
round.
i, and
10 rs.
iOleet
tments
)om for
lin be-
•tments
d com-
ind are
en who
[1 other
illy de-
he city,
id con-
nurses,
ontribu-
peculiar
lar with
md who
referred,
edat all,
e of the
country,
tinguish-

rd for their hospitality and agreeable manners, than for
bold and. persevering enterprise ; as they have the mer-
it of lirst projecting and commencing the two greatest
works of internal improvement in the United States,
viz: the Ch^*sepeake and Ohio Canal and the Baltimore
and Ohio V ailroad. They also have three Railroads
branching out from the city : one to Washington, one
to Philadelphia and one to York in Pennsylvania. —
JJaltimore posseses nearly the whole trade of Maryland,
and is so situated c? to command a portion of the trade
of Western Virginia, P^'nnsylvania and some of the
Western States. Its inland communication has been
extended and facilitated by the construction of the
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad.

The city and neighborhood carries on manufacturing
to a considerable extent in cotton and Woollen goods,
paper, powder, chemicals, pottery, &c. Baltimore al-
so has the merit of beins one of the laro;est flour mar-
kets in the world, inspecting annually between eight
and nine hundred thousand barrelsof flour, besides thir-
ty or forty thousand half barrels. The foreign trade is
also considerable, employing a capital of about $5,000*
000. The city has nine banks and nine insurance
companies ; and in addition t ) the public buildings al-
ready sketched, may be named two large and elegant
theatres, one circus and a museum.

From Bowly's wharf a steamef belonging to the cit-
izens Union line, carried us to Frenchtown, by sailing
up the Chesepeake bay a distance of 60 miles. Soon
after leaving the wharf we passed Fort M'Henry, situ-
ated on the left bank of the Patapsco river, about three

STATE OJ* DfeLAWAnf:«

miles below the city. This fort is admirably situated
for defending the harbour of the city. Alter entering
Chesepeake bay, our steamer soon brought us in sight
of North Point, celebrated for the death of Gen. Ross,
and the repulse of the British army in their attempt to
get possession of Baltimore, after their infamous con-
duct at the city of Washington, which added an indel-
ible page to the history of their crime.

CHAPTER III.

STATE OF DELAWARE.

Aspect of the State — Swamps — Fruit Trees — Chesepeako and
Delaware Canal — New Castle — Wilmington — Manufactures
— A rsenal — H ospital .

The general aspect of this little State is that of an
extended plain, chiefly favorable for cultivation. Near
the centre of the State the country is elevated in a small
degree, so as to form a kind of table land. This forms
a dividing ridge about half way between the Chese-
peake and Delaware bays. This belt or ridge is a chain
of swamps, from which the waters descend in one di-
rection to the Chesepeake and in the other to the Del-
aware bay. These swamps are generally covered with
coarse grass, equatic trees and shrubs, and of course
present a wild and cold appearance, and but few if any
poiUtj of picturesque beauty. These swamps, as all
others, are of course filled with frogs and crickets, who
by their ceaseless din fill the plain with animation du-

ring

bog]

drai

whi

a fe

thro

this

ing

to tl

qual

allt

G
the
and
thir
The
loan
drn
tecti
ed a
almi
thei
are
the
two
ted
cro]
nua
whi

\
^is€

ably situated
Iter entering
t us in sight
if Gen. Ross,
•ir attempt to
ifamous con-
ded an indel-

STATE OF DELAWARE.

lesepeako and
r Manufactures

that of an
i^ation. Near
ed in a small

This forms
the Chcse-
ge is a chain
1 in one di-
* to the Del-
overed with
1 of course
it few if any
imps, as all
'ickets, who
imation du-

ring the summer months. Many of these swamps are
beginning to loose the charms of their wildness by
draining and the hiojh state of cultivation in the lands
which surround them ; and no doubt, in the course of ,
a few years more, they will almost entirely disappear
through the agency of man. The northern portion of
this little State is generally a fine tract of country, be
ing highly and skilfully cultivated, and well adapted
to the growth of wheat and other grains of a superior
quality. In a word, this portion of the State presents

2 all that is delightful in agriculture.

^ Great attention is also paid to fruit trees, especially
the Peach tree, which is here found in the most hardy
and luxuriant condition ; frequently living twenty and
thirty years and bearing annually in great abundance.
The soil of the State is a kind of light, warm, sandy
loam. The orchards are situated on as much of a South-
ern exposure as possible, which to some extent pro-
tects them from severe bleak winds. They are plant-
ed about twenty feet apart. The ground is cultivated
almost every year, which is said to be necessary for
their growth and bearing. None but the choicest kinds
are cultivated, and these are generally inoculated into
the seedling when a vf^ar old, and transplanted when
two years old, The soil and climate are so well adap-
ted to the cultivation of the peach, that it is said the
crop of a single proprietor often amounts to $5,000 an-
nually ; and in some instances far exceeds that sum,
which is generally realised in the city markets.

When the yellows, which is one of the most fatal

>^ diseases of th^ peach-tree, is discovered, the tree is ioa-

STATE OF DELAWARE.

"!;>•;

mediately removed from the orchard, which is said to
be the only means of checking the disease. The grub or
peach worm, which punctures the bark of the tree and
lays its egg beneath it, at the surface of the earth, is
prevented by forming a bank or cone of earth or leach-
ed ashes, about a foot high, around the trunk ol the
tree, which is done about the first of June and remo-
ved in October ; which is said to afterwards harden the
bark below the reach of the fly the following year.

The manufactures of Delaware are more extensive
than its commerce. Home-made or family goods are
produced to some extent. Two woollen and eleven or
^twelve cotton factories produce a vast amount of arti-
cles. Small as is the State of Delaware, it has about
$1,600,000 invested in manufactures, the principal
ones being propelled by the waters of the Brandy wine
river. The Chesepeake and Delaware canal is an im-
portant public work. It commences at Delaware city
on Delaware river, and extends 14 miles to Back creek,
a tributary of Elk River. It is sixty-six feet wide at
the top and ten feet deep, having four locks nearly 200
feet long by 25 feet wide. It unites Chesepeake bay
with the Delaware river, being navigable for sloops
and steamboats the whole year except when frozen. —
This great canal, though only fourteen miles in length,
cost the sum of ^2,750,000. This canal is fed by the
w^aters of the Delaware, which presents an appearance
as transparent and beautiful as spring-water, which is
increased in beauty when viewed at one of the tide-locks,
which .when filled with these delightful transparent
waters rising to a great height, and bearing up a sloop

STATE OF DELAWARE.

ich is said to
The grub or
fthe tree and
the earth, ig
irth or leach-
trunk of the
e and remo-
ds harden the
ing year,
re extensive
ly goods are
md eleven or
ount of arti-
it has about
^e principal
Brandy wine
lal is an im-
elaware city
> Back creek,
eet wide at
s nearly 200
sepeake bay
e for sloops
?n frozen. —
es in length,
5 fed by the
1 appearance
r, which is
le tide-locks,
transparent
I up a sloop

or steamboat, presents a scene worthy of admiration.

The town of New Castle contains a population of
1200, is delightfully situated on a handsome site on the
left bank of the Delaware river, 17 miles from French-
town, with which it is connected by Railtoad. This
little town has many advantages of becoming a place
of some note, being 36 miles do\^n the river from Phil-
adelphia, and having on its west the beautiful and fer-
tile valley of Christiana river. In sailing from tliis
place up the Delaware, the fertile and beaiitiful lands
bordering on the river, presented themselves in all the
charms and loveliness of the month of May, while the
rays of the noonday sun, falling on the silvery bosom
■M of the noble DelaWafe, added grandeur to the scene.
The city of Wilmmgton, with a population of 8367,

. is pleasantly situated near the junction of the Brandy-
wine and Christiana rivers. It is a well built, grow-

. ing city, the most important in the State, the Brandy-
wine being navigable to this place for the largest ships;
The river above the towri has a fall which affords a
fine water power, which js occupied in propelling va-
rious machinery, among which are four flour mills, said
to be among the largest in the United States ; alsd, pa-
per mills, powder mills, cotton mills, woollen mills, i-
ron factories, &c. The city is well located for trade,
in which it is largely engaged for a place of its size.
It is also engaged in the fisheries, in the whale depart-
ment of which it has several ships. The city contains

' an arsenal, a hospital and 16 churches. Water- works

i on the Brandywine, supply every part of the place

I with water for domestic uses.

STATE OF NEW JERSEV.

CH A PTER IV.

STATE or NEW JERSEY.

Aspect of the State — Red Bank — Mud Island — Camden — Bur-
lington — Bordent( 'vn — Late residence of Joseph Banaparte —
Plains of Monmouth — South Amboy — Strait of Amboy,

In sailing up the Delaware from New Castle to Cam-
den, opposite Philadelphia, and then travelling north-
east to Perth Amboy, on the Raritan bay, I found the
Southern half of this State to be low and level, and on
my return found the Northern part to be hilly. The
soil of the State is not naturally well adapted to agri-
cultural pursuits, much of the land being either sandy
or marshy. Many large swamps may be seen in this
State, many of which are much larger and present ten-
fold the wildness of those in the State of Delaware. —
Large bodies of land in these regions must have been
swallowed up at an early day by those swamps whose
great fleeces of green moss, rough grass and equatic
shrubbery must have presented an object oi singular
wildness to every beholder. Yet with all its swamps
and other natural impediments ; its proximity to the
city of Philadelphia on the i?outh-west and the city oi
New York on the north-east,, two of the largest mar-
kets in the United States, the industry of the inhabi-
tants have rendered it exceedingly fertile in all kinds
of grain, fruits and vegetables common to the climate.
The peach in this State flourishes with almost as much
luxuriance as they do iji Delaware, the soil being saa»

STATE OF XEW JERtiEV.

!amden — Bur-
1 Banaparte —
Amboy.

stle to Cam-
lling north-
I found the
evel, and on
hilly. The
ted to agri-
lither sandy-
seen in this
present ten-
elaware. —
have been
rnps whose
,nd equal ic
oi singular
its swamps
ity to the
the city of
irgest mar-
the inhabi-
all kinds
Ihe climate.
)st as much
being saU"

dy and well adapted to the culture of that fruit, which
is here a source of considerable profit. The greater
portion of the sandy tract of this State is yet covered
with extensive pine forests, which afford supplies of
fuel to its numerous furnaces and the steamboats of the
neiorhborino; waters. The middle section of this State
is the most highly improved and wealthy part. It is
divided into small farms and kitchen-gardens, which are
cultivated with a superior degree of skill, the product
being heavy and always rewarding the proprietor sat-
isfactorily for his industry ; all of which finds a ready
market in the manufacturing towns of the district, and
in the great cities of the adjoining States.

A tour through the various sections of this State is
attended with considerable interest, and renders a rich
equivalent for the trouble and expense attending it. —
This does not consist alone in seeing its various pictur-
esque and delightful scenery, but also in experiencing
those thrilling associations which pass in rapid review
over the mind when gazing on many of the battlefields,
rendered memorable for that martial strife which re-
sulted in the overthrow of British oppression over the
colonies, and laid the legions of King George prostrate
at the feet of the Americans. In that desperate con-
flict, this State suffered more than any other in propor-
tion to her population and wealth, as the State was oc-
cupied for several years by the British and American
armies. At one time the New Jersey militia constitu-
ted the principal strength of Washington's army.

On sailing up the Delaware, the principal object
worthy of notice was Red Bank, memorable for tho

■

RED HANK.

death of Count Donop and the slaughter of his Hessians
in 1777. This celebrated place is situated on the right
bank of the Delaware, 8 miles below Philadelphia. — '
On the lelt bank or Pennsylvania side of the river, is
a marsh called Mud Island, a poor place indeed for a
fort, but the beft Washington coudl find. Here he or-
dered Col. Greene to erect a redoubt, and also one on
the Jersey side at Red Bank, which Greene command-
ed himself, and placed the gallant Samuel Smith on
Mud Island with 230 men, where they prepared for
the blciod}'' strife^ while the flood-tide of the Delaware
was giroanino: under the enormous weight of the British
fleet which was approaching them, who soon poured
♦their thunder and fldme upon this Mud Island band. —
We are told they stood the . aock to a miracle, and
threw into the fleet some 32 pounders an d bombs, which
blew up the Augusta, a 64 giin ship. While her frag-
ments and her crew were yet floating in the air, the
Black Bird, another Ship, blew up likewise, and went
to join the Augusta. Count Donop t\'ith his host of
Hessians made a gallant attack upon Red Bank where
Greene gave theiti such a tremendous shower of grape
shot and spike nailsj that the host gunk down b}'^ hun-
dreds into the sweet slumbers of death, scarcely sensi-^
ble of the fatal blow that relt their lives;

The city of Camden, in Burlington county, with a
population of 4306, situa'ed opposite Philadelphia, is
a beautiful town of 850 dwellings. Several steam fer»
ry-boats are constantly plying between the two cities.
It carries on some branc hes of manufacturing iudustry,
which appear to bo in a flourishing state. The city

BUnMNOTO.V r>ORDKNTC)W\.

4.5

s Hessians
1 the right
ielphia.— '
! river, is
leed for a
lere he or-
Iso one on
command-
Smith on
epared for
1 Delaware
the British
on poured
nd band. —
racle, and
mbs, which
le her frag-
e air, the
and went
is tiost of
nk where
r of grape
n b}*^ hun-
cely sensi-i

ty, with a

[delphia, is

steam fer*

I two cities.

jg iudustry,

The citv

contains a very splendid Court-house and other county
buildings, eight churches, an academy and one hand-
some bankinor-house. Its trade is considerable, its
wharves excellent and the location of the city delight-
ful, commanding a fine view of Philadelphia, from
which it is distant three quarters of a mile, which is
the width of the Delaware at this place,

Burlington, with a population ol 3434, is delightful-
ly situated on the same river, 17 miles above Philadel-
phia. This city is partly encircled by a beautiful
stream of water, over which are four handsome bridg-
es. This place was incorporated as a city in 1784, is
regularly laid out, contains some fine private mansions
and other buildinjxs, amongr which are six churches
possessing great elegance. The most beautiful build-
ing however, is the residence of the Bishop of New
Jersey. The town is located in a fertile tract, posses-
^ng many delightful little farms, adorned with suitable
fliansions ^nd fa?*m buildings.

Bordentown, with a population of 1800, is situate i
on the Delaware, 27 miles above Philadelphia. Ine
town is regularly built on a site 70 above the river. —
Steamers from Philadelphia and Trenton touch here
several times a day, Bordentown is the most splendid-
town in the State, being most admirably situated on a
commanding eminence, overlooking the Delaware riv-
er and surrounding country, at the termination of the
Delaware and Raritan Canal. The town is adorned
with the princely mansion of the late Joseph Bonaparte
(Count de Survilliers,) and brother of Napoleon. This
unfortunate l^ing afler abdicating the thro, e of Spain,

<ni!i

I'LAINS OV MO.XMOUTH SOUTH AMBuY.

(a present from his victorious brother,) he sought an a-
sylum in the United States, and erected at Bordentown
a splendid mansion which is celebrated for its masterly
points of architecture, and for the great bea'ity, order
and taste displayed in the gardens and grounds sur-
rounding the mansion.

The principle object worthy of notice in Monmouth
county is Freehold, a town with 6303 inhabitants. —
There are many private mansions adorning this town,
together with a very beautiful Courthouse, other coun-
ty buildings and seven or eight churches possessing con-
siderable elegance. Freehold is celebrated for the
great battle of Sunday, the 28th of June, 1778, usual-
ly known as the battle of Monmouth, where Washing-
ton burst in such stern '^'rath on Gen. Lee for his con-
duct ; and amid the thunder of artillery and the shouts
of the victorious British legions, he rallied his broken
and dying ranks, and rolled back the tide oi battle with
his mighty arm, thus saving the American army from
utier route. Lee, stung for his act towards his com-
mander-in-chief, strove heroically to retrieve the lau-
rels lost by his conduct in the commencement of the
battle, and was the last mail upon the bloody field,
striving nobly to save the army. Their sufferings from
the excessive heat were unparalleled in the history of
any war, the tongues of many of the soldiers being so
swollen that it was impossible to retain them in their
mouth ; and when the terrible strife had ceased there
were found 4 American and 59 British soldiers who
had perished from the effects of heat alone.

South Amboy, with 1825 inhabitants, situated at the

'Sl

STATE OF NEW YORK.

ight an a-
rdentown
3 masterly
ty, order
unds sur-

don mouth
bitants. —
this town,
ther coun-
jssing con-
d for the
78, usual-
I Washing-
3r his con-
the shouts
his broken
battle with
rmy from

his com-
e the lau-
ent of the
)ody field,
wrings from

history of
1 being so
n in their
ased there
Idiers who

Jnouth of the Raritan river, on a bay ol the same name.
The city has an excellent harbor and is actively enga-
ged In trade. In sailing h*om this place to the city of
New York, we passed through Amboy straits, which
separates the main land of New Jersey from Staten Is-
land. This winding channel is in parts only half a
mile wide, with many splendid villas and country res-
idences on Staten Island. Its banks are well wooded.
The trees were beorinninor to unfold their leaves, amonoj
which were the scarlet maple, the horse chestnut and
lime tree in bloom ; the Judas tree, conspicuous with
its purpleish pink blossoms ; the dogwood with its dis-
play of white flowers, while the lilacs flowering in the
gardens, presented a scene grand and delightful, after
having remained leafless for the seven preceding months.

CHAPTER V.

STATE OF NEW YORK.

Aspect of the State — City of New York — Natural Advantagos
of the City — Throngs of People— City Hall— View from the
Cupola — Exchange — Astor House — Custom House— Halls of
Justice — Post Office — Battery— Union Park — Castle Garden
— Columbia College — Hospital — Asylum — University.

This great State, on which nature has showered with
such a liberal hand, those bounties so necessary for a
nation's prosperity, is exhibiting to the world one of
those amazing examples of growth and prosperity, per-
haps lowhere to be found on the face of the globe. —

StAtn OF SKW VORK.

Her works are executed on a scale of imperial gran*
deor, the State almost litei'ally executing what Xerxes
the Great fancied in his threats to the mountain. We
here see her for the purpose of obtaining artificial lev-
els for* her Railroads and Canals, hewing down hills
and mountains and casting them headlong into sea and
ravine, and spanding her noble rivers with bridges and
aqueducts. The great trunk which connects the great
central basin of the lakes and the St. Lawrence With
the Atlantic, is one of the most magnificent enterprises
of the age, extending from Buffalo on Lake Erie, through
the fertile vallies of the Genesee and Mohawk, to the
city of Albany on the Hudson, a distance of 364 miles.
The Champlain Canal extends from thd south end of
Lake Champlain at White Hall, to the city ol Troy on
the Hudson, a distance of 76 miles. These great ca-
nals, with their numerous branches extending in almost
every direction through the fertile regions of the State,
constructed at a cost of $13,500,000, which, together
with other noble enterprises, have won for Mew York
the applause of the world.

New York is not only distinguished for hef untiring
enterprise and magnificent public works, but ior her
sublime and beautiful natural scenery, consisting in
part in her water falls, her numerous inland lakes of
fresh water. Among these may be named Lakes George
and Saratoga in the north and Lakes Cayuga and Sene-
ca in the western part of the State, which are admired
by every traveller for their beauty — while Glen's Falls
in the north, Trenton Falls and Genesee Falls in the
western part of the State arc each admired lor the gran*

S'KW YOKK ClTW

rial gran-
lat Xerxes
tain. We
jficial lev-
lown hills
ito sea and
Dridges and
ts the great
rence with
entet*prises
Tie, through
■wk, to the
f 364 miles,
luth end of
' of Troy on
e great ca-
ns in almost
of the State,
h, together
New York

Ihet* untiring
Ihut lor her
insisting in
id lakes of
Jakes George
;a and Sene-
lare admired
Glen's Falls
'alls in the
lior the gran*

i\eu: they present. These, with Niagara Falls on her
western frontier, a part of which she claims as her own,
which crowns the known globe in grandeur and sub*-
limity, have been pronounced Ihe most stupendous
scenes ''n nature* After traversing the various sections
of the State, every traveller is compelled to como to
the conclusion that New York is justly entitled to the
proud name she claims for herself — that of Empire
State. — Not so much for her size as for the sublime
character of her natural scenery, her magnificent pub-
lic works, large and flourishing cities, towns €iml villa-
ges, her noble enterprise and the high state of her ag-
riculture* The western sections of the State are either
tevel or merely widulating : the soil is of a good quali**
ty and finely adapted ^o the growth of wheat. The
central parts are agreeably undulating. The eastern
frontier is mountainous, being traversed by the High»*
land, Catskill and Mohegan ranges ; and near the Penn*
sylvania boundary the country is very hilly.

The city of New York contains a population of 371,*-
223, and is beautifully and advantageously situated on
the ancient island of Manhattan, which is formed by
the junction of the Hudson and East rivers, 16 miles
from the great Atlantic ocean. No city in the World
can possess more if equal advantages for foreign com-
naerce and inland trade. The two long lines of canals
above named^ connect the fertile west and north with
the Hudson, by means of which vast trade is shipped
to the city. This, with other natural advantages, has
rendered it the most wealthy and flourishing of all A»
mexican cities, and i\v' greatest emporium of the west*

■'iz

ii.i

THRONGS or fEon.p;*

ern hemisphere, and af't^r London, the greatest ia iht
ivorld.

The citj is well built and regularly laid out, with
the exception ol the older part of the city, in which
the streets are crowded, narrow, crsoked and dirty ;
but this now forms only a small portion of the city.—
It is not so much distinguished for its regularity and
beauty as for being the great mart of foreign and inland
commerce, from almost every part or section of the
world. The stranger on walking its streets, after leav-
ing his quiet home and thd fresh atmosphere of the
country, finds it a dusty, smoky, noisy, busy, great and
animating emporium. In this mighty metropolis, the
stranger from abroad may see its fine buildings, its long
streets and handsome places 5 its dense throngs of in-
habitants, its immense shipping and its enormous trade.
He may observe on the one hand, the princely dwel-
ling, the costly equipage and the splendid appearan-
ces; and on the other hand the squalid hut of poverty,
of filth, of extreme misery and degradation. He may
perceive the eddying throngs gathering and whirling,
scattering and hurrying hither and thither, in the ac-
tivity of commercial pursuits. He may here become
confused by the never-ending turbulence and commo-
tion, with the hundreds of mingled notes and noises
M'hich are ever arising from the multifarious trades and
occupations of its thousands of inhabitants. And among
its mingled crowds he may meet Frenchmen, Spaniards,
Italians, Austrians, Swiss, Germans, Russians, Chinese,
Jews, Turks, Africans, Portuguese, English, Southrons
and Yankees : all commingling in the same hour, in

fvtl.U Ullt.DlS'G*.

lest iu tlit

out, with
, in which
and dirty }
the city.—
ularity and
1 and inland
tion of the
!, after leav-
bere of the
ly, great and
ropolis, the
ing3, its long
rongs of in-
rmous trade,
cely dvvel-
d appearan-
of poverty,
. He may
td whirling,
I, in the ac-
ere become
Xid. commo-
and noises
lus trades and
And among
In, Spaniards,
ns, Chinese,
Southrons
hour, in

lh« same strrt-l, in Ihu siune scone and all of wliunij
perhaps afe numbered in the census of this great me-
tropolis. He here sees that nothing is fixed, nothing
is permanently settled— all is moving and removing,
organising and disorganising, building up and tearing
down ; the ever active spirit of change seems to per-
vade all bodies, all things and all places in this mighty
metropolis.

Objects of attraction. The City Hall, erected at
a cost of $538,731, is 216 feet in length, 105 feet in
width and 51 feet in height, surmounted by a cupola,
on which is a figure of justice. From the cupola there
is a beautiful view of the city, with her 195 churches
with their towering steeples, all presented to your view
besides those of the cities of Brooklyn, Jersey and
Newark. With the aid of a telescope, you can see
far over the surrounding country, and far up Long Isl-
and Sound. The Governor's room in this building, is
used as a receptidn hall by the Governor, Mayor and
celebrated men who occasionally visit the city. It
perhaps contains the finest collection of portraits of
distinguished men in the United States. Among them
are the Governors of New York, Mayors of the city,-
naval and military officers, all the heroes of the late
war with Great Britain ; also, a long writing table for-
merly used by Washington, and the chair occupied by
him when President of the first Congress. The Com-
mon Council room contiguous^ also contains a number
of fine portraits.

The Merchant's Exchange, in Wall, corner of Wil-
liam' street, is a very splendid edifice, constructed of

- ,i h

rtsroAf tior?fi.

Qniucy «j;ranit«^, '200 fret loii^, 120 feet uide and I2i
fort to tlir (op of tho (lomo. The rotundo is 80 feet in
(liamotor, and isnpon tho whole a vrry handsome struc-
ture. The Astor House opposite the Park Fountain,
is a vast Hotel, constructed of Quincy ojranitP, 200 feet
long, 150 feet wide, 77 feet hij2;h and contains 390
rooms. The whole structure heinp; stone, the floors
are heautiful!}' pavetl with hlocks of marble.

The Custom House, situated at the corner of Wall
and Nassau streets, extendin<j; to Pine street, is built of
white marble, at a cost of $950,000, and occupies the
site of the old Federal Hall, where Washington was in-
au^jurated President of the United States. It is open
for business and visitors between 10 a. m. and 3 p. m.
It is 177 feet long:, ^^ ^^^^ wide and modelled after
the Parthenon at Athens. It etandson a basement sto-
ry, ascended by nineteen stone steps from Wall street,
and six steps from Pine street. There are eight Gre-
cian Doric columns at each front, and fifteen columns
and an anta on each side, attached to the walls. There
is also a second row of si,\ columns, somewhat smaller,
back of, and parallel with those of the main front, leav-
ing a space of ten feet between the two rows, and a-
bout nine feet between the inner row and the front
wall of the building. Back of the two extremes of the
inner row, there are two antas ; there are also six antas •
attached to the walls of the rear front, leaving a space
of about ei2:ht feet between the columns and the antas.
There are, according to this order of architecture, 21
outride columns, 5 feet 8 inches in diameter at the bot-
tom and 32 fet't high, including the capitol ; and !San-

th(
tri;
tio

t^ .>'ru.M iioi^r:.

laM on the two sides, orthe saniu height, five iVvt wide
and iicQily four loct jiroji'ctions IVom the wAh. 'i'he
() iniKT columns of the main front are l feet H inches
in diameter at the hottom and the antas corr(?spond. —
The huilding is two .stories lii^h except the ^neat busi-
ness hall, which is vaulted as high as the roof will per-
mit, and its centre finished with a dome GO leet in di-
ameter. 'J'his hall occupies the centre of the Luildinjr,
and is 115 leet long, leavin<i; a small vestibule at each
end to enter from. Being /7 feet wide it leaves bey-
ond the circumference of these dimensions, space where
are found six rooms and three circular staircases in th«
four corners. The two largest rooms are each 24- leet
by 21, besides a square staircase in the rear and three
vaults for papers, at the two ends ol the vestibules. —
The same division of rooms is made in the second story.
Nearly the same number, shape and size of rooms are
found in the basement as in those above, leaving all
the area of the same shape and size as the p;reat hall
immediately above it, with the addition of IG fluted
cjlumns of the Doric order, which support the vaiiltin<5j
and the pavement under the dome of the great hall.

The Halls of Justice, situated in Centre, corner tcr
Leonard street, is occupied by some of the Courts. —
Part of the building is used as a Police Station House.
The building is usually known as the Tombs, wherein
the Police Courts may often be heard rich and amusing
trials of persons, arrested by the police for the viola-
tion of the laws and regulations of the city.

The Post Office, formerly the middle Dutch Church,
is n venerable edifice, which has stood for 116 years.

' ti

54.

EATTKRT — rA?TM>C AR1)E\.

During the Revolution it was used as a prison for a-
bout 3,000 Americans, and afterwards as a riding school
for the British cavalry. The North Dutch Church, in
William street, was also used for the same purpose.

The Battery, at the southern extremity of the city,
\H a delightful open piece of ground, containing about 1 1
acres, well shaded with beautifnl trees, commanding a
very delightful view of the harbour and its ports, isl-
ands, ships, steamers, fishing-boats, &c. The Park is
a very beautiful spot of ground, centrally situated, has
a handsome fountain, is the site of the City Hall and
Mall of Records, which will be noticed in their places.
It ip also the site of the New York Gallery of Fine
Arts. Union Park, at the upper extremity of Broad-
way, is a handsome piece of ground, neatly arranged,
and contains a very pretty fountain. Each of these
Parks are enclosed with a strong, handsome iron fence.

Castle-Garden is a place celebrated /or pleasure — a
structure used in winter as a place ior large meetings
of a public character, for balls, concerts, &c. ; and in
summer as a place to promenade. The interior has a
very imposing elTect to a stranger, owing to the mag-
nitude and neat arrangement of the place, which is
considered the largest audience room in the world, be-
ing over 700 feet in circumference. Its capacity is
ample for the accommodation of between 15 and 16,-
000 persons. Columbia College, at the loot of Park
Place, founded nearly a century ago, has a library of
over 14,000 volumes. The New York Hospital is a
large, handsome and well conducted institution at 319
Broadwa.v, The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is located in

\»W YORK TTNIVSRSITY.

ison for a-
iing school
Church, in
mrpose.
f the city,
ig about 1 1
manding a
ports, isl-
he Park is
ituated, has
' Hall and
heir places.
ry of Fine
r of Broad-
y arranged,
h of these
iron fence,
pleasure — a
;e meetings
LC. ; and in
erior has a
o the raag-
which is
e world, be-
capacity is
15 and 16,-
Dot of Park
library of
ospital is a
it ion at 319
is located in

50th street. Visitors are received in those institutioni
by tickets from the managers, on Tuesdays, from 1 to
6 P. M,

The New York University is a splendid edifice ot
white marble, which truly exhibits a specimen of the
handsomest English collegiate style of architecture, —
It is situated between Washington Place and Waverley
Place, and fronts Washington square towards the west.
This structure is 100 feet wide and 180 feet long.—
The building on every side that it may be viewed, has
a very splendid appearance, consisting of a central
building with wings flanked by towers, one rising on
each ot the four corners of the edifice. This central
building or chapel, is 55 feet broad and 85 feet deep,
and is truly a masterpiece of pointed architecture and
h <i nriodel for succeeding ages. At the west end of
tL •.. apel is a window 50 feet high and 24 feet wide,
by which a large portion of the chapel is lighted. This
window contains 8 lights and embattled tranfloms ; the
heads of the lights are cinque foiled in a plain arch,
and the divisions above are quarter foiled. By ascend-
ing a broad flight of stone steps, immediately before
the great window, brings you to the principal entrance-
into the building, just under the window. The en-
trance is through a richly mounted and deep recessed
portal, flanked by buttresses of two stages ; the upper
stage set diagonally and rising above an embattled par-
apet, finished in crotcheted heads, crowned with a pin-
nacle. The other doors of the building are oak, richly
panelled, which have the appearance ot being filled
with tracery of open work, closely studded with bronze.

5t>

l^iKW VOKK CTTl'.

; ."!ii

The principal floor in the building is the one gainetl
by the broad flight of steps above named, which floor
contains the rooms devoted to the use of literary soci-
eties, one large lecture room and some smaller rooms
ior classes in mathematics, natural intellectual and mor-
al philosophy, history, civil engineering, and the high-
er classes in the various departments of learning. On
the second floor are the studio of the professor of de-
sign, with a cabinet of models, &c. In other parts of
the building are seen libraries,, antiquities, &c.

The atranger after examining several oi the most
prominent structures presented to his view, his mind
becomes sufiiciently composed to receive other and e-
qually agreeable impressions of New York ; and he goes
forth to satisfy his curiosity ansong her stately edifice*
and crowded thoroughfares. The dimensions, extent
and colors of the buildings, the strange and various
costumes, the number and style of the equipages of this
magnificent city, as seen in the light of a summer's
sun, never fail to delight the stranger, or call forth his
repeated exclamations of amazement. The great Broad-
way, filled with cwnnibusses, carriages and footmen, in
liveries of every variety and description, are in them-
selves sufiicient to surpass all the expectations ot the
tourist, if he went no farther, and went away with no
other than this passing view to remind him of the great
emporium of the western hemisphere. Here he may
find numerous gardent, public squares, parks, fountains
and churches with walls and towers of every hue,
stand forth in fantastic grandeur. On every side, a-
raund him, for miles and miles extend the mwltiforaa

:i:W YORK LlTV

le {jaineJ
hich floor
^ry soci-
ler rooms

I and mor-
i the high-

ng. On
sor of de-
r parts ol'

the most
his mind
icr and e-
nd he goes
ly edifice*
ns, extent
id various
igesofthis
sammer's

II forth his
eat Broad-
otmen, in
e in them-
>ns ol the
ly with no
>f the great
« he may
, fountains
very hue,
/ side, a-
multiform

and variegated mass of buildings, with chequered walls,
red, green and gilded roofs, cupolas and spires without
number. He may behold a portion of her streets broad,
straight, well paved and beautiful ; while on the other
hand he will see others dirty, narrow and irregular,
turning and twisting in every direction, and in their
windings constantly presenting some singular and nov-
el feature, — which being continually thronged with
people and equipages passing to and fro in an unbro-
ken stream, and filling with life the narrow windings
of ground before him. On the right and left are pala-
ces, cottages, churches and noble halls of various ar-
chitecture, in red, blue, green and white succeed each
other with a rapidity which at first surprises and then
bewilders the passing stranger ; and it is not until he
ascends to the cupola of the City Hall and takes in the
whole at one great view, that he is enabled to receive
a fixed and decided impression of the greatest of A-
merican cities.

The traveller on walking the pavements of thest
winding »treets, which present one ol the most singu-
lar and animating scenes of any other city in the Uni-
on, is often much annoyed by the eager shopmen, who
Irom every door will beseech him with bows and gen-
tle violence, and with many promises to sell cheaper
than his neighbors. Among the moving throng he
will be able to discover ladies and gentlemen who are
bred in the lap of luxury, who employ and practise all
the accomplishments and seductive arts that most en-
chant society. The ladies have much vivacity ol mind,
^race of manner and display the most exquisite taste

f>8

AMl'RRAN' MlrJKlM.

in all apportalning to dress. Among the gentlemen
may be found some possessing all the moral, intellect-
ual and religious training and cultivation necessary to
develope the nobler faculties of our nature, while oth-
ers may be pointed out, more distinguished for then-
wit and pliability of mind, than for their attainments
in sound philosophy ; while still another class may be
observed who are almost destitute of every thing cal-
culated to adorn.

CHAPTER VI.

American Museum — Great Collection of Curiositios — Painting!
—-Scriptural Statuary — Jewish Sandhedrim — High Priest —
Caiphas — Dress of the High Priests — Scribes and Lawyer —
Barabbas — Executioners — Figure of the Savior — Roman Coun-
cil — Pontius Pilate — Pilate's Wife — MesiusQuintus — Position
of the Council — Roman Guards — Scriptural Sketch — Affect-
ing Scene — Death Warrant of Jesus — Sketch of its Discovery
— Hall of Records.

The American Museum, a very large and splendid
marble building, is situated at the corner of Broadway
and Ann street. It is said to be the largest in Ameri-
ca, containing several larore and commodious halls over
100 feet in length, filled with an innumerable quantity
of curiosities from every portion of the globe. Here
are birds of every variety and clime, from the Ostrich
to the hundred kinds of Humming birds ; from the Bird
of Paradise of the Tropics, to the Penguin of the Polar
regions; besides preserved animals and reptiles. The

■m

AMERICAN MUSETM.

' gentlemen
il, intellect-
lecessary to
, while oth-
?d for their
attainments
lass may be
r thing cal-

oa — Paintings
Ugh Priest-
id Lawyer —
Roman Coun-
tus — Position
etch — AfTect-
its Discovery

d splendid
' Broadway
in Ameri-
8 halls over
le quantity
>be. Here
he Ostrich
m the Bird
t the Polar
iles. The

^«partraent8 of Conchology, Entomology and Mineral-
ogy are very perfect.

The grand Cosmorama contains a very large number
of views of the most celebrated cities, beautiful land-
scapes, water views and many other things executed
by the first artists in Europe. The^ miscellaneous cu-
riosities include a fine collection of old paintings and
rare engravings, many Chinese curiosities, ancient suits
of armor, mail and arms, antique coins, splendid fossils,
beautiful statuary, finely preserved Egyptian mummies,
&c. The picture gallery contains several hundred por-
traits of the great men of America, the most of whom
have passed off the stage of action: such as Franklin,
Washington, Jeflferson, Madison, Monroe, the Adams
and Hancock family, John Jay, Jackson, &c., besides
many who are still shining lights in the western hem-
isphere, as Clay, Calhoun, Cass, Col. Johnson, M'Duf*
fie, Webster, Generals Scott, Worth, Quitman, Twiggs,
Pillow, &c. This splendid gallery is one of the most
interesting objects to the thousands of visitors of the
Museum, both citizens and strangers ; and can never
fail to excite the admiration of every beholder, wheth-
er amateur in painting, or a mere admirer of the whole,
as forming a grand gallery of thaintelligence and mor-
al worth of our nation. The performances are chaste
and interesting, and of such a nature as to secure the
patronage of the better classes of community. The
Lecture room is large, beautifully and tastefully ar-
ranged, and capable of seating about 1200 persons. —
The entertainments take place every afternoon and eve-
ning and are always of an unexceptionable nature. —

1'' ' '

\m'''

iSIKniCAN Ml'!»E^l'!l*.

Such regulations are established and enforced as (o ren-
der it perfectly safe and pleasant for ladies and children
to visit the Museum at any time, without being accom-
panied by gentlemen, In different parts of the build-
ing various mechanical works and figures are exhibi-
ted, affording a great deal of amusement ; and their va-
rious tables are surrounded by admiring crowds, A-
mongst the rest is an automaton writer and draughts-
man, which gives the population of Paris in figures,
writes legibly in FreRch and can draw on paper, birds,
butterflies, &c., in very handsome style.

The third floor of this famous Museum contains some
very splendid Scriptural Statuary, exhibited in four
different groups, representing in figures the size of life,
the Birth of Christ, the Last Supper of Christ and his
twelve Apostles and his Trial before Caiphas and Pon-
tius Pilate. The whole ol this statuary has an appear-
ance as natural as life. The two last named groups
are intended to represent that moment in the trial ol
our Saviour, when Caiphas says to him, " I adjure thee
by the living God, that thou tell us whether thou be
Christ the Son of God."

As the spectator approaches this statuary, the group
on the right represents the Sanhedrim or Jewish Counr
cil, of which the High Priest, Caiphas is President. —
He is at once recognised by his breast-plate, which
consists of twelve gems set in gold, and on each is in-
scribed the name of a tribe of Israel, which are set in
tour rows, three in each row, making up the twelve
different tribes. This ornament we are informed, was
never to be separated from the priestly garment : an4

A^fliRlCA^' ML-fiiuM.

r,i

as fo retl"
d children
ng accora-
the build-
re exhibi-
i their va-
»wds. A-

draughts-
n figures,
per, birds,

tains soine
;d in four
size of life,
St and hiis
s and Pon-
an appear-
ed groups
le trial ol
djure thee
r thou be

the gtoup
rish Counr
esident. —
te, which
?ach is in-
are set in
le twelve
•med, was
lent J an4

it was called the <memQrial,' because it was a sign
whereby the children ol Israel might know that they
were presented to God, and that they were held in re^
membrance by him. The second thing which attracts
attention is his dress, which is richly ornamented, es-
pecially the bottom ol the dress, with its bells, pome-
granites, &c., together with the cap of the Priest, with
inscriptions of 'Holiness to the Lord,' and just above in
Hebrew characters, the word 'Jehovah.' The Presi-
dent, Gaiphas, is surrounded by Jewish Priests, dressed
in ricl> robes, having caps upon their heads, bearing
the same inscriptions as that of the President. The
dresses accord in every particular with the description
given in the Bible.

Standing on the left of Caiphas, is the Jewish Priest
Samach. He is giving great attention to the Scribes
and Lawyer, who are at the table, to whom he says —
" Be he guilty or innocent, yet because he ob;serves not
the la>y of his ancestors he is not to be tolerated." —
Here we have his ideas of justice. Quilty or innocent,
it matters not to him. He says Jesus is not to be tol-
erated because he does not follow in the footsteps of
his ancestors. It can be perceived by the expression
of their countenances, that the whole Jewish Council
wet-e predetermined to put our Saviour to an ignomin-
ious death ; while the Roman Council on the left, plain-
ly express an anxiety that Christ, who they are satis-
f^eJ IS innocent, should be released.

About halfway between the two groups or Councils,
is a table, around which are seated the Scribes and
Lawyer. The Scribes are intent upon writing down

ill

AMERICAN MUBGUM.

the proceedings of the tiial, lor which purpose they u-
sed pointed instruments called stiles instead of pens,
and wrote upon parchment, as paper was unknown.—
They appear to express no opinion of the merits of the
trial, although there is not that appearance of resent-
ment as exhibited in the Priests. They are surround-
ed by parchment, on which the laws were written,
and to which they are referring, and listening to the
Priest, who is addressing them in regard to the laws un-
der which Christ is condemned. — But the answer of
the Lawyer does not seem to be satisfactory to the ha-
tred which desires his death. Between the Jewish
Priest Samach, and the President, is the Priest Ehieres,
who is in earnest conversation with the Higrh Priest.
He is saying, "be he innocent of tiiis crime, yet shall
he die, because he stirs up the people to sedition by his
discourses." They were determined to crucify their
prisoner at at all events; and if they could not convict
him of one crime, they had others ready to lay to his
charge. — The Council of the Jews but too much resem-
bled their President, Caiphas, in sheir injustice and fu-
ry against Jesus. At the left of the Priests are Aure-
lius and Fabrius, two Roman soldiers. To the right of
the table already named, are the three Marys, who lis-
ten in grief to the cruel proceedings against their dear-
ly beloved Master.

To the extreme left of Caiphas, there is seen a group
of great interest, both with respect to the genius of the
artist, and the part they sustain. The figures are the
centurion, who was despatched to release Barabba^i, and
Birabbas, who the populace chose should be set f

AMKRICAN MUSEUM.

I they u-
ot pens,
nown. —
its of the
f resent-
lurround-
written,
ig to the
I laws un-
nsvver of
the ha-
e Jewish
it Ehieres,
rh Priest,
yet shall
ion by his
cily their
ot convict
ay to his
ch resem-
ce and lu-
re Aure-
le right of
, who lis-
leir dear-

m a group
liusof the
s are the
abbas, and
set free^

rather than Jesus ; as Pilate had said, "ye have a cus-
tom that I should relea55e unto you one at the passover,
will ye therefore that I release unto you the King of
the Jews." "Then cried they all again, saying, not
this man but Barabbes ; now Barabbas was a robber."

The eagerness of the Centurion to execute the will
of the people, is admirably shown, as also the emacia-
ted and haggard appearance of the prisoner, Barabbas,
who looks like one having suffered imprisonment and
become spirit broken.

Directly before the last mentioned figures, are the
executioner and his assistant, who are conversing upon
the manner of the punishment which is just accorded
to Jisus;, that of crucifixion. The life-like appearance
of these two cannot be surpassed. The assistant has in
one hand a hammer, holding a nail in the other, as if
about to strike, while he seems to be asking directions
of his principal, who appears to be hesitating^ and not
so willing as usual to perform his duty. There seems
to be some feeling of compassion in his countenance.
Just before them is a box which contains their tools.

This is a brief sketch of the group on the spectators
right, which represents the Sanhedrim or Jewish Coun-
cil, before which Christ was arraigned and condemned
to death. In this representation he is placed just in
front of the Scribes' and Lawyer's table already noti-
ced, which is about half way between the Jewish and
Roman Councils. Being in front of the table he is
thrown in advance of the centre, and is therefore near-
er the spectator than any other figure therewith con-
nected ; and by walking a few paces to the left, we ar-

Il' I

▲ MKRICAN Ml'toEl'M.

I*. .,

ri!,:

riv5 opposite that figure which represents our Lord,
the prisoner, the object of the hatred of the Jews.—
Here we see the Son of God, the Prince of Peace, the
Saviour of the world, the Redeemer of sinners, bound
as a criminal, treated like a culprit, guarded by soldiers,
arraigned like a felon, clothed in a purple robe, his
(lands bound by a leather thong, and a crown of thorns
upon his head, which is seen has already caused the
blood to flow from his forehead. The figure of Christ
is most admirable, and his countenance is surpassingly
beautiful and heavenly. The artist has almost expres-
sed the attributes of divinity in a human form. It in-
finitely surpasses any thing ever before attempted in
wax, and periectly accords with the description given
of our Saviour.

Thus stands the Saviour, bound and placed in their
midst, guarded by the first Centurion, Quirilus Corne-
lius, who is on the right of the prisoner, and has charge
of him as a criminal, with his eyes fixed steadily upon
him. He exhibits no particular feeliftg in the matter,
either for or against Jesus : but stands waiting patiently
the termination of the trial, when he is ready to obey
orders, having hold of the prisoner. In the midst of
this agitated scene, and in conformity with his nature,
he appears at once a superior being. No anger, ha-
tred, or even impatience in his expresiion. —

I am the Redeemer, for thee I must die —
The cup is most painful, but cannot pass by.
Thy sins which are many, are laid upon rtie<,
And all this sore anguish I muffer for thee.

Near the prisoner are the two false witnesses who
testified at this tribunal, and said of the Saviour— <«this

'if

■s

AMKllKA.N >Ili»L:iM.

ir Lord,
Jews. — '
•ace, the
B, bound
soldiers,
robe, his
ofthorns
used the
of Clirist
passingly
it expres-
i. It in-
mpted in
:>n given

in their
xs Corne-
as charge
dily upon
ic matter,
patiently
to obey
midst of
is nature,
nger, ha-

by.
rafei

essea who
>ur— *<this

ftllow said 1 dill able to destroy the temple of (Jmd and
build it in three days." This was a gross perversion of
his language. Jesus said, "destroy this temple, and in
three days I will raise it up ;" having reference to the
temple ol his body and his resurrection. His language
was thus distorted so as to involve him in the crime of
speaking blasphemy against the holy temple. Jesus
maintains a dignified silence to these charges, which
excites the anger of the High Priest, Caiphas, who,
contrary to law, imposes a solemn oath upon the pris-
oner, by saying to him, "I adjure thee by the living
God, to tell us whether thou be the Christ f e Son of
God." This was a gross infraction cf the:r law, which
forbade that the accused should criuiina c himself. —
Christ answers him — "Thou hast said ; lieverti.oless I
say unt® you, hereafter shall ye see the So ; of Man
sitting on the right hand of power, anr ':^oming in t' <»
clouds of heaven" — acknowledging h mstlf to be the
Son of God. The High Priest is highly enraged at this
answer, which can be distinctly seen, and raises his
hands in affected horror, and says, "bo hath spoken
blasphemy ; what further need have we of witnesses.
Behold now ye have heard his blasphemy." This is
the interesting moment represented in this awful and
impious tribunal. The eye '^f the spectator at this mo-
ment is cast upon Caiphas, Wiijse features are distorted
with rage against Jesus. With uplifted hands and his
countenance depicting t'le most inveterate anger and
revenge, he seems anxious to sacrifice our Saviour to
the infuriated Liob. He too much resembles the odious
portrait which the historian, Josephus, has given oi

AMVRICAN MUSEUM.

him ; who in a most violent transport of passion, when
unable to effect his guilty purposes by the testimony
of others, resorts to the most illegal method of compel-
ling the prisoner to criminate himself. We are inform-
ed in the 18th chapter of John, that this High Priest
declared before he seen or heard Jesus, that he was de-
serving of death, by saying to his colleagues that it
was expedient that one man should die for all.

This same High Priest questions him with regard to
his disciples and his doctrine. Jesus answers, "why
askest thou me ; ask them which heard me what I have
said unto them. Behold they know what I said." —
And when he had thus said, one of the officers which
stood by struck Jesus with the palm of his hand, say-
ing, "answerest thou the High Priest so." Jesus says
"if I have spoken evil, bear witness of the evil, but if
good, why smitest thou me." This took place under
the eyes of the whole Council, and as the High Priest
did not restrain the author of it, he became an accom-
plice, especially when this violence was committed
under the pretence of avenging the alledged affront to
his dignity. What a hideous picture is this of the
Jewish tribunal, allowing sueh outrages upon a priso-
ner not yet convicted or sentenced.

The spectator now leaves the Sanhedrim or Jewish
Council, and passes a few paces to the left, which brings
him opposite the second group. This represents the
Roman Council, before which Christ was brought after
the Jewish Council had heaped upon him all the false
charges in their power, and who would have gladly put
to death their innocent and grossly injured prisoner;

A>lfiRlCAN MUSSUM.

1? ■*

sion, when
testimony
of compel-
ire inform-
igh Priest
he was de-
les that it
ill.

1 regard to
?rs, "why
'hat I have
r said."—
ers which
hand, say-
Jesus says
»vil, but if
ace under
igh Priest
an accom-
committed
affront to
lis of the
1 a prisc-

or Jewish
lich brings
esents the
)ught after
i the false
gladly put
prisoner ;

but they dare not take his life, for the Romans had re-
served the power of life and death. So soon as the
spectator arrives at this group, the first thing which at-
tracts his attention is Pontius Pilate, the Governor of
Judea. He is seated on a throne partially surrounded
with a rich canopy, in keeping with his splendid dress.
At the feet oi Pontius Pilate is Claudia Procula, his
wife, who has thrown hersell before him, begging her
husband to have nothing to do with that just man, for
she had suffered many things that da}^ in a dream be-
cause of him. This advice from his terrified wife he
would have taken, had he listened to the voice of his
own conscience. 11 was customary for the Roman of-
ficers to be accompanied by their wives in their cir-
cuits ; and although the proper residence of Pilate was
Cesserea, he was always at Jerusalem during the feast
of the Passover, when the city was filled with stran-
gers. Her wife was acquainted with the emergency
in which her husband was placed, and the agitation of
her mind naturally caused her to dream upon the exci-
ting subject. Common rumor had spread the intelli-
gence of the wonderful character of Jesus, which now
mingles with her imaginations in sleep, and excited
her apprehensions lest her husband would be forced to
condemn him against his better jud^^ment.

On the right of Pilate is Mesius Quintus, a Roman
General attached to the Court of Pontius Pilate. He
was a distinguished man, as can be seen by his dress
and his proximity to the Governor. Concern, marked
emotion and almost a desire to rescue the accused, are
marked in his face. H« is listening intently to the an-

]

Iii'i!"

A:.ri;R iLA.\ Misia M.

swer our Lord makes to Caiphas, President of the San-
hedrim, declaring himself the Messiah ; and although
he did not believe the prisoner to be the Son of God,
yet he was anxious that full justice should be done him.
He says, "is there none in the whole city to defend an
innocent man ;. if he be right let us go to him, if he be
wrong let us banish him from us." So it appears that
Mesius Quintus was in favor of preserving his life, e-
ven if guilty, and punishing him with banishment on-
ly. On the left of Pilatfj is Subires, one of his Gener-
als, who appears in earnest conversation with him.

Near the Governor is seated Joramus, one of the Ro-
man disrnitaries, who belonojed to the court of Pontius
Pilate. He is evidently very anxious and his sympa-
thies are with Christ. His brow is knit and his whole
face shows anxiety for the fate of Jesus. He appears
astonished too, that the prisoner, after having so long
remained silent should declare to Caiphas that he should
see the Son of Man sitting at the right hand of power,
and coming in the clouds of Heaven. The surprise
and astonishment of Joramus at these words, are not
confined to him alone ; they will be seen to pervade
the whole group, except perhaps the centurions. He
feels that Christ is unjustly accused and exclaims, "why
should we suffer this man, being innocent to be con-
demned." He sees that the charges aojainst the Saviour
are not sustained, and says, "this man is not proved
guilty of any crime, wherefore should we keep him
bound." At the left of our Saviour is seated Simeon*
dus, one of Pilate's Council. He is looking very ear-
nestly and partakes of the feeling of Joramus, who if

AltfERlCAN MtrjiEtM.

)f the San-
i althouorh
n of God,
done him.
defend an
n, if he be
•pears that
is life, e-
hment on-
(lis Gener-
h him.
of the Ro-
of Pontius
is sympa-
his whole
[e appears
g so long
he should
of power,
surprise
are not
pervade
ions. He
ms, "why
be con-
le Saviour
)t proved
keep him
Simeon-
N'ery ear-
who if

standing close by, which is, that Christ is unjustly ac-
cused, and his sympathies are with him.

Zoradius, Achius and Marcellus are Roman Guards,
standing in the same group. The same indifference of
expression with regard to th? result ot the trial, may
be seen in their faces, as is denoted in that of the firit
centurion, Quirilus Cornelius, who has already been no-
ticed as holding Christ. Their countenances indicate
no malice or anger, neither do they exhibit any sym-
pathy for the prisoner. They look upon the proceed-
ings w^ith apathy, and stand ready to execute the orders
ot their Governor, and lead our Saviour to the place of
crucifixion without the least emotion of sorrow. Such
are evidently the obdurate hearts these Roman guards
and centurions possessed.

The spectator after viewing the position and counte-
nances of the members of this Council, his attention is
aorain drawn to the Governor. His countenance is dig-
nified, but his feelings are violently agitated on this
trying occasion. The emotions of his soul he tries hard
to suppress. He is anxious for the fate of Christ, and
would have released him had he listened to the dictates
of his own conscience'; for he was perfectly satisfied
of his innocence, as all his declarations prove. When
the Saviour was first presented to him and accused, he
questioned him and the witnesses closely ; and after a
thorough, searching investigation of his case, finds no
fault in him. He asks, "what evil hath he done ;" and
they cried out the more, saying, "let him be crucified."
When Pilate saw that he could prevail nothing, but
that rather a tumult was made, he took water and wj^sh-

^ Ml

AMERICAN ML'SfiCM.

If,

ed his hands before the multitude, saying, "I am inno-
cent of the blood of this just person ; see ye to it." —
They answered, "his blood be on us and our children."
What an awful imprecation ! and how fearfully fulfil-
led in the seige and destruction of Jerusalem ; when
1100,000 Jews were sacrificed ; and among them, no
doubt were some of the same individuals who were pre-
sent at the trial of our Saviour, as it occurred in the
year 70, about 36 years after the crucifixion ; and suf-
fered the same death they were so eager to infiict upon
our Lord* It does not appear that Pilate was malig-
nant. We see the efforts he made to save Jesus. But
he was a public officer ; he was intimidated by the out-
cry which the Jews had raised against him ; calling in
question his fidelity to the Emperor of Rome, under
whom he held office ; and for fear of a dismissal from
office, he disregarded the voice of his own conscience
and the entreaty of his own wife, yielded to the Jews,
gave them a warrant for the execution, and thus sacri-
ficed his innocent prisoner to an infuriated mob, which
innocent prisoner he at every hazard was bound to pro-
tect. How affecting is the condition of the prisoner ;
he is the object of bitter hatred and the victim of mer-
ciless cruelty. His judges are controlled by the worst
passions of the human heart. When reviled he revilta
not again ; he alone is calm and meekly submits ; while
he has all the power, and could instantly call legions
of angels to his aid, he allows his foes to execute their
unholy purposes, that he may give to the world an ex-
ample of patience under wrongs, and offer himself a
ransom for the sinp of man, and lead a guilty world td

AMERICAN MU?EI:M.

am inno-
to it."—
hildren."
illy fulfil-
n ; when
them, no
werepre-
d in the

and 8uf-
flict upon
as malig-
sus. But
V the out-
calling in
le, under
isal from
}nscience
he Jews,
lus sacri-
)b, which
id to pro-
prisoner ;
1 of mer-

he worst
le reviles
;s ; while

legions
ite their
Id an ex-

imself a
kTorld to

love and worship the Father. He illuminates the be-
nighted mind with the splendors of truth ; he converts
the habitations of woe into palaces of peace and praise.
How truly then, is he worthy of the love and honor
of all hearts, and the unceasing gratitude of a redeem-
ed world ! He is despised that we may be loved ; he
is rejected that we may be accepted ; he is condemned
that we may be justified; he dies that we may live;
he found no comfort any where that we may be filled
with all comfort ; he is made a curse that we may be
blessed ; he is led out of the city that we may be brought
unto the heavenly kingdom.

There is no feeling in the spectator's heart of deep-
er, holier sympathy, than that awakened by the con-
templation of the sufferings, persecution and death of
our blessed Saviour. Our very horror and detestation
of the cruel authors of his doom, is lost in the admira-
tion excited by the patience and humility with which
he endured their cruelty. He is derided and insulted,
and every artifice is resorted to, to extort one sign of
human passion. He who could command the powers
of heaven to his aid, submits with meekness, that the
word may be fulfilled ; and to the last, under the agony
of a death most painful, still on his lips lingers the
prayer, "Father forgive them, they know not what
they do. If then, the mere mental picture recorded
in the sacred volume excites such lively emotions in
the heart, how vividly must they glow when gazing
on the almost breaking reality ! What a great moral
lesson is written in the meekness of that face of super-
human beau<y I There is nothing on profane record

'• V.

■I;

AitElllCAN' MUSEfM*

can compare ^vlth this, the most enduring Buffering of
the martyr of any age. There is no pride of heart in
sustaining pain, but it is the holiness of the living God
breathing in his Son.

O let us to that Saviour fly,

Whose arm alone can savo ;
Then shall our hopes ascend on high,

And triumph o^er the grate.

On the table around which the Scribes are seated^
the spectator can see among the parchment, a copy of
the sentence rendered by Pilate against the prisoner :
which sentence was originally engraved on copper-
plate. On one side is written these words : "*^ simi-
lar plate is se)vt to each tribe^'^ and on the other side
are the following words :

DEATH-WARRANT OF JESUS.

Seiitence rendered by Pontius Pilate^ acting Governor
of Lower Galilee^ stating that Jesus of jYazareth
shall suffer death on the Cross>,

In the year seventeen of the l!lmpire of Tiberius Ctr**
sar, and the 25 day of Marck, in the city of holy Jeru-
salem, Anna and Caephus being Priests and sacrifica--
tors of the people of God, Pontius Pilate Governor of
Lower Galilee, sitting in the Presidential Chair of Pre*
tory, condemns Jesus to die on the Cross, between two
thieves; the great and notorious evidence of the peo-
ple saying : — 1 Jesus is a seducer ; 2 he is seditious j
3 he is an enemy of the law ; 4 he calls himself false*
ly the King of Israel 5 he entered into the Temple
followed by a multitude bearing palm branches in their
hands. Order the first. Centurion Quirilus Cornelius
to lead him to the place of execution. Forbade any
persons whomsoever cither poor or rich, to oppose the
death of Jesus.

■f

-.'1

Ferlng of
heart in
ving God

re seated)
a copy of
prisoner :

n copper-
«*^ simi"

other side

Governot
jYazareth

iberius Ctp«*
lioly Jeru-
l sacrifica**
overnor of
lairofPre*
itween two
Df the peo-
seditious •>
self false*
e Temple
es in their
Corneliur<
rbade any
oppose the

!!A!.L OF RECORD?.

'/I

The witnessses who siijncd thp condcinnation, are as
follows : 1 Daniel Robani, a Pharisee ; 2 Joannes Zo-
robatal ; 3 Raphael Romani ; 4 Capet, a citizen. Jesus
shall go out of the city of Jerusalem by the gate of
St ru en us.

The above sentence, as before stated, is engraved on
a copper plate. It was found in an antique vase of white
marble, while excavating in the ancient city of Aquila,
in the kingdom of Naples, in the year 1280, and was
discovered by the Commisaries of Arts, attached to the
French armies at the expedition of Naplc^\ It was
found enclosed in a box of ebony, in the Sacrist}^ of
Chartrem^ The vase is in the chapel of Caseira. The
French translation was made by the members of the
Commission of Arts. The original is in the Hebrew
language. The Chartrem earnestly requested that the
plate should not be taken away from them. The re^
quest was granted as a reward for the sacrifice they had
made for the armv. M. Demon one of the Savans,
caused a plate to be made of the same model, on which
he had ena-raved the above sentence. At the sale of
his collection of antiquities, &c., it was bought by Lord
Howard for 2,890 francs.

The next object worthy of notice in this city, is the
Hall of Records or Register's Office, situated on Cha-
tham street, east side of the Park, a few yards east of
the City Hall. It is appropriated for city and county
is one of the most chaste specimens of
if which this irreat

purposes, a
architectun

ity

80 feet deep, 62 feet in width and 4S feet in height,
with two porticos, one at each end, which are support-
ed by six marble column^, each from the great quarries

■!i: i!

HFFliCT^ UF SILAW,

ofSingsIng. The walls of the building, which are of
stone, are stuccoed on the exterior in imitation of mar-
ble. The style is Grecian, the model being that of the
Temple of Ephesus. It unites strength to beauty and
simplicity. The building is entirely fire-proof, the
floors being supported by arches of stone. It contains
the offices of the Register of Deeds, the City Comp-
troller, Surrogate, Collector of Assessments, &c.

CHAPTER VII.

Effects of Steam — Cook Bindery — Arsenal — Trinity Charcli —
Grace Church — Broadway Tabernacle — Croton Water-work*
— Coaches — Brooklyn — Atlantic Dock — Greenwood Cemete-
ry — East River.

While visiting the various portions of the city of
New York, I had an opportunity of seeing the wonders
of Steam, which is here substituted for human exertion.
It is here that it relieves man from the greater portion
of physical toil, under which he with the rest of his
fellow-men has groaned ; it is here that steam is chang-
ing everything, and everything for the better ; it is
hero arming man with a power that is irresistible, and
al the same time the most pliant — one which can up-
root a mountain, and yet be controlled by a child ; it
here imparts motion to a large portion of the arts. —
Here its effects can be seen on the one hand, by spin-
ning and weaving threads as fine as those of the gossa-
nipr, and for-i:in3; tons of iron into sinofle bars with al-
most eq\ial rapidily and ca>e ; while on the other Innd

KPfnctS OF 51KA>t.

[\ are of
1 of mar-
latofthc
auty and
roof, the?
contains
f Comp-
tc.

jT Charcli —
Vater-work»
►od Cemete-

le city of
le wonders
exertion,
er portion
est of his
is chang-
Itter ; it is
stible, and
h can up-
child; it
he arts. —
|d, by spin-
the gossa-
s with al-
oiher hiiul

tire ae»n scores and hundreds of steamers, urged through
the watery element, with the velocity of wind, in spite
of the raging tempest and rolling waves. It is here
connected on every hand with the manufacturing of pa*
pet and with the printing press, and is perhaps doing
more to rouse and exercise the moral and intellectual
energies of our nature, than any other city on the globe.
What a proof is steam of the high destiny that awaits
our species! The most fervid imagination cannoi- re-
alize the importance of those discoveries in science and
the arts, of which it is merely the forerunner. The
first is that new catalqi^ue of agents that are oitlained
to change the condition of men, and to regenerate the
earth ; for all that is yet done is but as the twilight that
ushers in the orb of day. Hitherto man has been com-
paratively asleep, or in a state resembling it, insensible
of the rich inheritance which the Creator has placed
at his disposal, in the elastic fluids, and of their adap-
tation to impart motion to every species of mechanism.
How few persons are aware that the grand inrention
of imparting motion to a piston by steam, is the pivot
on which the chief affairs of this world is destined here-
after to turn ; and by the noble progress of. the sciences,
the time is not distant when by means of it the latent
energy of the gasses, or other properties oi inert mat-
ter, will supersede in a great degree, the drudgery of
man ; will perform nearly all the labor which the bones
and sinews of our species have hitherto been doomed
to accomplish. There are persons however, with minds
biassed by the eternal bondage in which the mass of
our race has always been held, who will startle at the

'III

a;t

•^6

BOOIC-DINDERV

Vr I

idea of their becomirij^ an intt'lligorit and hi^^hly Intel
lectual body. They cannot conceive how the affairs
of life are to be continued, the execution ot innumera-
ble works which the constitution of society requires,
should be pLM'formcd, if these helots become free. But
can they, can any one seriously believe that the all-
wise and benevolent Creator could possibly have in-
tended, that the highest class of beings which he has
placed on this planet ; the one capable of appreciating
his works, and realising correct Ideas of bis attributes ;
that the great portion of these should pass through life,
in incessantly toiling for mere food, and undergoing
privations and sufferings to attain it, from which the
lowest animals are exempt ? Assuredly not. Had
that been his design, he would not have created them
with faculties expressly adapted for nobler pursuits.

Among the many things of the city worthy of notice,
is Mr. Walker's Book-bindery, in whose employ are a
number of persons, and among them about fifty females
whose weekly earnings vary from $2,50 to $7,50, who
are principally employed in folding and sewing sheets.
The folder sits before a table, on which she spreads out
the sheets in succession ; in her right hands she holds
a small ivory folding-knife, with which she flattens the
folds of the sheets ; which is a process requiring con-
siderable accuracy, so as to make the lop and bottom
lines of the print range. The sewer is seated some-
what obliquely at a little machine, called the sewing-
press; which consists of a flat table, from which rise
iyvo end-bars, connected at the top b}*- a cross-bflr.—
Three or more strinirs, according to the size of the book.

\y Intel-*
e affairs
inumera-
rcqini'es,
ree. But
the all-
bave in-
h he has
jreciatinfij
ittributes ;
rough life,
ndergoiiig
ivhich the
not. Had
ated them
pursuits.
r of notice,
ploy are a
fty females
;7,50,who
ing sheets,
preads out
she holds
flattens the
liring con-
nd bottom
ited some-
le sewing-
which rise
ross-bflr.—
)f the book.

TiOOK-lllNDKUV.

i i

are fastened by loops to the croos-bar, and are tighten-
ed down by a simple contrivance at the bottom. The
sewer has her left arm passed round the left vertical
bar; and proceeds to sew the various sheets to the bands
or strings, her left hand being behind the strings, bear-
in": down the lu\if of each successive sheet as sLe
spreads it Hat on the sewing-press, with the back edge
in contact with the strings, in which position it is held
and the middle fastened to the strings by passing a
threaded needle backward and forward through the
centre fold of the sheet, each thread after passing from
the inside to the out, being made to loop or twist round
one of the strings, before entering the sheet again. As
soon as one sheet is fastened, another is laid down and
fastened in a similar manner. A curious kind of stitch
called 'kettle stitch,' is made near the top and bottom
of each book, as a means of allowing the thread to pass
from one sheet to another. There are many other pro-
cesses in a book-bindery worthy of notice. The great
variety of patterns to book covers is given by a cylin-
der machine, with heated rollers having the various
patters engraved on them, under which the covers pass,
after which they are fastened on the sewed sheets, in
various ways, owing to the style of binding. A strip
of iron is then inserted between the bookand the back,
which keeps the sheets all square, when it is placed in
a cutting machine, which cuts the edges smooth and
square. In the extra finishing shop it receives its various
devices. It is first coated with size, then two or three
times with white of egg, after which it is slightly touch-
ed with a piece of oil cotton v.'hen the gold is laid on,

hi,

[

I'. ''

t-nl

ITATU An?U'\AT. — TRINITT CllVHCU, kC.

The State Arsenal, opon every day to citizens and
sti'an'Trrs, is situated on tlic corner o( Centre and Frank-
lin streets, and well worth a \isiit. Tfio trophy room
contains many interestin;^o!j(»cts talv(Mi during the wars.

Trinity Churrh, in Hroadway, oj)posito Wall street,
is a very elegant structure, built entirely of sand stone.
Tower and spire 283 feet hi^^h. The Orjjan is of the
very largest class, weighs 4<0 tons, and cost $10,000.
The church is the higheht and most splendid in the
State of New York. It is open daily for public rcli-
gfious services, ami cost, including furniture and all oth-
er expenses except the clock, the sum of $3()S,629 64.

Grace Church, in Broadway, above Tenth street, is
a splendid edifice of white marble, which cost the sum
of $l4'r),OvOO. Here is to be seen the Monument erect-
ed by order of Congress, to the memory of the noble
and daring General IVlontgomery, who fell in the as-
sault upon Quebec dm'ing the revolutionary war ; his
bones being removed from Quebec in the year 1818,
and deposited beneath this monument, which bears ap-
propriate inscriptions. Among the many tombs and
monuments in the church yard, can be seen a very tall
but slender obelisk, erected to the memory of the cele-
brated Emmet, of Ireland.

Broadway Tabernacle, in Broadwav, above Antho-
ny street, erected in 1836, is 100 feet square, and is
capable ot seating comfortably, 2500 persons, being the
most spacious building of the kind in the city. It is
frequently let for public meetings, lectures and con-
certs, the rent money being applied to the discharge of
the mortgage on the building, which w;is purchased in,

WAlER-WORk* COACHES.

izens and
i\d Frank-
phy room
T tho wars,
/"all street,
sand stone.
I is of the
$10,000.
id in the
ublic reli-
md alloth-
;iS,629 64.
h street, is
Dst the sum
nent erect-
the noble
n the as-
war ; his
rear 1818,
1 bears ap-
tombs and
a very tall
)f the cele-

)ve Antho-
re, and is
s, being the
ity. It is
and con-
ischarge of
urchased in,

1840 by tho

;re

Th«

society now worsnippin^
churches named are the most conspicuous ones in the
city ; there are, however, 193 other large, fine and
splendid churches in this metropolis.

The Croton Water-warks is one of the mokt magnifi-
cent enterprises of the age. The aqueduct of thit
mighty work is built of stone, and commences 5 miles
from the Hudson river, at a dam built over the Croton
river, a distance of 40 miles from the city. The wa-
ter crosses Harlem bridge, in an iron pipe laid as an
inverted syphon, A massive structure is however
nearly completed over the river, called the High bridge,
over which the water will be permanently conveyed.
The bridge is 1450 feet long and 114 feet high, and
will cost the sum of $900,000. The receiving reser-
voir, at 86th stjeet, 38 miles from the Croton dam,
covers 35 acres of ground, and contains 150,000,000
gallons. The distributing reservoir, at 40th street, about
3 miles from the City Hall, encloses an area of 4 acres
and contains 20,000,000 gallons. From this reservoir
the water is distributed through the city in 150 milei
of iron pipes. The cost of the whole, by the time th«
new bridge is completed and the pipes laid thereon,
will exceed the sum of $13,000,000. The cheapest
conveyance to the reservoirs is by the cars of the Har-
lem Railroad, which leave the depot in Centre street,
every 15 minutes during the day. Fare 12i centi
each passenger.

Hackney Coach and Cab fares are most unfortunate-
ly influenced by the distance and number of passengers.
In this particular, New York has Ih^

„ ^

BIlOOKLVN.

:i-i i

W''^\

ments of any ckty ia the Middle and Eastern States,
whose cities regulate by law, the fares of the different
carriages belonging to their respective cittes. In this
great metropolis, however, numerous as they are, they
are allowed to charge what they please, which is gen-
erally pretty heavy, and demanded of the passenger
with a very good grace. There are no less than 427
licensed hacks and cabs^ 327 omnibusses, who are thun-
dering over the streets from daylight till IQ o'clock at
night, in addition to which there are 3033 licensed
drays» Each drayman is required to own a horse arwJ
cart. After visiting the principal objects of attraction
in the city, a beautiful ferry-boat carried us over East
river to Long Island, landing us on the pier of another
city.

Brooklyn, with a population of 59,558, is beautifully
situated at the west end of Long Island, on command-
ing ground, just opposite the city of New York, This
city holds the second class in population in the State,
is handsomely and regularly laid out and contains sev-
eral beautiful buildings. The Heights, a precipitous
bank on East river, afford a very delightful view of the
city and harbour of New York, Inhere is in this place
a City Hall in process of construction, which, when
completed, will be a grand ornament to the city. The
United States Navy Yard, on Walabout Bay, covering
about 40 acres of ground, contains many objects of in-
terest. Here a large and splendid Dry Dock has been
constructed, ofvery beautiful stone, at a cost of §1,000,-
000. The Marine Hospital is a very large and beauti-
ful building, having about 33 acres of ground attached^

*'i»

ATLANTIC I;(H'K-.

1 States^
different

In this
are, they
h is gen-
.^assenger
han 427
are thun-
'clock at

licensed
lorse and
ittraction
)ver East
f another

pautifully
ommand-
•k. This
le State,
ains sev-
-ecipitous
ewof the
his place
when
ty. The

coverincr
cts of in-
has been
§1,000,.
d beauti-
attached^

which is highly and skilAilly cullivatt'd in the various
plants suited to the climate.

The Atlantic Dock, at the southern extremity of the
city, where can be seen ships of the very largest class
crowded together, with their towering masts, which,
when viewedfromthe tower of some ofthe commodiou*
warehouses built on the piers, have a most imposing aj)-
pearance. The dock with the piers and warehouses cost
$625,000. Greenwood Cemetery, about 2 miles frcm
the city, covers an area of 200 acres, possesses eminent
natural beauties, and is richly worth the trouble and ex-
pense of visiting it. It is perhaps the most beautiful, neat-
ly laid out and tastefully ornamented with shade trees
and flowers of any cemetery in this or any other State.
The city contains 30 very large and beautiful churchcsj
among which is the elegant and superb structure callttl
Holy Trinity, the most magnificent edifice in the city.
A large number of steam ferry-boats connect the city
with New York, by running across East river continual-
ly during the day and night with little intermission.

This city is well situated for trade and partakes largely
in the commercial activity and prosperit}^ of its neigh-
bor, being washed on its northern bank by the waters of
East river, and on its southern bank by the Atlantic d^
cean, while a railroad extends from the city to Green-
port, 96 miles, at the eastern extremity of Long Island,
which forms a portion of the nearest route to the city ot
Boston. After remaining in Brooklyn a few hours, I a-
gain crossed East river for the city of New York, while
the right and left of the ferry presented all the charm:-
that a great forest of ship masts could possess,

i -i

8-2

DiirAHT: ni: — cuMi'irrrnox ox Trip, hiu^o.v.

CHAPTER \' I I r .

Departure — Competition on the Iliulson — Tarry town — Sleepy
Hollow — Sing riing — State Prison — Palis ules — »Stony Point
— Ilidtorical Sketch — Mountain Peaks — Forts ('linton and
INIuntgoniery — West Point — iMilitary Acacieniy — Halls aid
]3uilclino-s — Fortilications — Deliijlitful Location — Monument
of Kosciusko — Mountain Peaks — Newburg — Towns — Hudson
city — Shipping — Athens — Catskill — Catskill Mountain — Ho-
tel — Prospect.

I now felt a desire to leave the noise and uproar of
New York atid those minti;led masses who crowded her
streets, and seek the pure air of the country, and her
exceedingly beautiful ucener}'^, which I flattered myself
would have a better effect in recruiting my health. —
For this purpose I detennined to go froni this city
north, by sailing up the Hudson, and halting at some
of the principal places of interest, on the banks of that
noble river, until I would get as far north as the city
of Troy, a distance of 156 miles from the city of New
York ; and after some perambulati6ns in the vicinities
of the cities of Albany and Troy, travel west to the
Falls of Niagara. For this purpose I left my kind host
of the Croton Hotel, in Broadway, and repaired to the
wharf at the lOot of Cortland Street ; and on my arri-
val was surprised to find that I could get passage on
board a steamer for nothing, owing to the great oppo-
sition on the river ; where one company would take a
passenger on board their boat for no fee whatever, be-
fore they would suffer him to take passage on board a
boat belonging to their opponents, which is a course

l\.

i ARRYTOWN &LEi:rV HOLLOW — blNO 9I^<T.

II — Sleepy
ony Point
intoii and
Halls ai d
Monuinetit
5 — Hudson
itain — Ho-

uproar ol
wdcd her

luid her
ed myself
[lealth.—
this city

at some
ks of that

the city
r of New
vicinities
ist to the

kind host
•ed to the

my arri-
assage on

at oppo-
ald take a
tever, be-
1 board a

a course

pursued by one company for the purpose of breaking
up the other. The wharf was so crowded with run-
ners, who are oniplo3'ed by the respective agents of
companies, where the passenger is met by Tom, Dick,
Harry and Jerry, all thrusting a ticket in his face, slan-
dering the boats of his opponents, and so perfectly
crowding his way, that he finds it impossible to pro-
ceed, until he gives them to understand by the most
desperate frowns or hard notrds, that they had better
give vent.

On board the beautiful steamer Henrick Hudson, we
sailed up the river, where Ave found the scenery inter-
esting and delightfuL We soon arrived at Tarrytown,
which has about 1000 inhabitants, beautifully situated
on an eminence overlooking Tappan bay, 27 miles
north of the city of New York. Tarrytown is famous
as being the place where Major Andre was captured
by the three militia men, on his return to the British
lines, after a visit to Gen. Arnold at West Point. Ad-
joining the north part of the village commences the fa-
mous Sleepy Hollow, on which Washington Irving
»ounded his entertaining legend, bearing the name of
"Sleepy Hollow."

I here found it necessary to keep the notes of the
scenery of the east bank separate from those of the west
bank. Therefore, the counties and the side of the riv-
er they occupied were first noted alternately, and then
their respective scenery as they were passed.

Sing Sing, a town with a population of 2,500. i:i de-
lightfully situated 33 miles north of the city of New
York, from which steamboats and vessels piv daily to

itxtE PRiaON — PALlSADBft*

iHr: ■

;i I;

I. m

Sing Sing, which has four excellend landings. Th«
main body of the town is situated on high and uneven
ground, rising to an eminence of 180 feet above tide
water. From this point the view is extensive and var
ried, overlooking Tappan and Haverstraw bays, the
Hudson and Croton rivers, and the surrounding counr
trv, includinj? a distant view of the Palisades and th«
Highlands* Sing Sing was incorporated in 1813. It
is said to derive its name from the Indian word, Ossin-
Sing, meaning the place of stone. It is now celebrated
for its marble quarries, which are worked to a great ex-
tent by the State Prison convicts, of the Mount Pleas-
ant State Prison, situated about half a mile south of the
town. The prison grounds consist of 130 acres of
land. The villages of Sparta and Peekskill, are situa-
ted one below and the other above Sing Singr.

Rockland Couniy, (west side,) — The Palisades are a
lofty range of precipitous rocks, extending along the
west bank of the Hudson river, for a distance of about
20 miles. At Fort Lee, in the State of New Jersey,
they first approac^h the immediate margin of the river,
varying from 300 to 500 feet in almost perpendicular
height, extending north to Piermont, at the commence-
ment of Tappan bay. The definition pfp. palisade ap-
pears to be, pales set out for an enclosure ; and these
giant rocks stand, and ^yill stand as long as the sea
knows its bounds and the earth keeps its foundation, to
restrain on one side the majestic waters that roll onr
ward to the ocean.

Stony Point is a point of land extending a consider-
jible distance into Haverstraw bay, on the highwt part

STONY roi\T.

s. Th*
uneven
ive tide
and va-
lys, the
g counr
and th«
513. It
I, Ossin-
ilebrated
jreat ex-
it Pleas-
thpfthe
acres of
re situa-

les are a

ong the

of about

Jersey,

le river,

ndicular

nmence-

sa^e ap-

id these

the sea

at ion, to

roll on-

;onsider-
iMt part

gf which stands a light hous*. This rocky point of land
is celebrated for having been the scene of one of the
most gallant exploits during our Revolution. These
rocks here stand as a lasting monument to the most
brilliant action in the whole life of the heroic Wavne.
This point of land is washed on two sides by the wa-
ters of the Hudson. The fortress was situated on a con-
siderable hill, on the west lay a marsh which every
tide overflows. With all these natural defences the in-
trepid Wayne only demanded of Washington a corps
of moderate strenorth, which we are told Washingrton
gave with considerable hesitancy, by remarking to
Wayne, that he feared the expedition would not be
successful ; to which Wayne replir i. '.'General, if you
will only plan it, I will storm tL'i."

On the memorable nig,ht of the 15th July, 1779,
Wayne put in motion two charging columns, one com-
manded by Col. Henry and Major Stewart, the other
under his own command, they coming in opposite di-
rections without firing a gun, while storms of balls and
grape were hurled in their faces. — Yet the shout of
Wayne was heard above the din of the tumult, sum-
moning his followers on, and pressing furiously lorward
through the morass, over every obstacle, up to the ve-
ry mouths of the cannon, and up the rocky acclivity,
they stormed on, crushing every thing in their passac-e.
Towering at the head af his shattered column, pointino-
still upward and onward with his glittering blade, and
sending hir thrilling shout back over his heroes, Wayne
strode steadily up the height, till at length struck in the
head by a ball he fell back amid the ranks. Instantly

'i , !■

ifl

1 jDn

W'^

Snf'1

i ;

l4'

IK*

•'■1 '

ill

^^1

MOrNTAlI,- SCUNKKV.

rising on ono knee, he cried out, "march on ! carry me
into the Lrt, for I will die at the head of my column !"
And those heroes put their hrave arms around him,
and hore him onward, taking the rapid voUies on their
unshrinking breasts, over the living and dead, smiting
down the veteran ranks that threw themselves in vain
valor before them, till they reached the centre of the
fort, where they met the other column, which over
like obstacles had achieved che same triumph. At the
sight of each other one loud shout shook the height
and rolled down the bleedinor lines; was again sent
back till the heavens rang with the huzzas of the hero-
ic patriots, while Col. Henry struck the British flag,
and planted the American stripes upon the celebrated
height.

A few miles above Stony Point is the peak of Gi-
bralter, a nriountain peak running into the Hudson, near
which is Cadwell's Ferry, famous for the wreck of
Kidd's vessel. These mountains present a scene of
some interest, not only as being picturesque and I'oman-
tic to behold, but as oeing connected with the history
of that celebrated pirate.

Putnam County, (east side) — This side of the Hud-
son, so far as this county extends, is famous for its tow-
ering mountain peaks, among which are Anthony's
Nose, 1128 feet in height, Sugar Loaf Peaks, two of
which are of considerable height. The village of Cold
Spring is situated in a gorge in the mou:itains, near the
edge of the Hudson, which is ornamented by several
peaks of towering mountains near it. A few miles a-
bove are Bull Height, a peak 1486 feet in perpendicu-

:3
-1

WE:>T I'<U\T.

;atry lue
Dlumn !"
nd him,
1 on their
smiling
} in vain
e of the
ich over
At the
tj height
;ain sent
the hero-
tish flag,
elebrated

ik of Gl-
ison, near
wreck of
scene of
id roman-
history

the Hud-
)r its tow-
Lnthony's
, two of
e of Coid
;, near the
y several
miles a-
rpendicu-

l.ir hri^hl . I>rtMkn<H'k Hriirhts nn.» two rid*;^os rvmnini^
to [-kv edge of the Hudsun, bein.^ 11S7 feet high.

Orange County, [west side.) — Here are forts Clinton
and Montyromerv, situated on the banks of the river;
one of which is located above and the other below Bare
mountain, a peak 1350feet in height. About 5 miles
farther up the river, is the memorable spot known as
West Point, containing apopulationof 900 inhabitants.
It is romantically situated in the Highland range of
mountains, where they were cut asunder that the wa-
ters of the Hudson might pass quietly on its course to
the ocean. The river here makes a turn, forming an
angle oi about ninety degrees, the mountain forming a
like angle. On this angle is situated West Point, at
an elevation of 186 feet above the Hudson.

On this high and commanding point is situated the
United States Military Academy, established by an act
of Congress, in March, 1802, for the instruction of
young men destined ior the army. The number of ca-
dets is limited to 250 ; and in choosiug among the ap-
plicants, the sons of the revolutionary otlicers are al-
lowed the first claim, and the children of the deceased
ofiicers of the last war with Great Britain, the second.
The age of the pupils on admission, must be between
I'i and 22. The professors and instructors are 30 in
number. Each cadet costs the government $336 an-
nually. They are required to decamp six or eight
weeks during the year. The course of study is com-
pleted in lour years, and includes French, Drawing,
N^atural and Experimental Philosoph}^, Chemistry,
Mineralogy, Geography, History, Ethics, National

BlILDiXOS AND FORTll'ICATIONS.

Law, Mathematics, and the whole system of itrate<;y,
tactics, artillery and engineering. The annual expense
of the institution is $150,000.

The buildings belonging to this great institution arc
two stone barracks, one of three and the other of four
stories in height, an academic hall, a large three story
stone building, 275 feet in length by 75 feet in width,
used for military exercises in winter and as a reposito-
ry of the chemical apparatus, models of fortification,
artillery, machines, architecture, &c. ; a very beautiful
two story stone structure on the Elizabethan gothic
style of architecture, M'hich contains the library and
philosophical apparatus. This great structure is 150
feet in length by 60 feet in width , the north front has
three towers, two of which are suited in the usual way
for astronomical apparatus, while the centre tower is
surmounted by a dome 30 feet in diameter, the whole
of which revolves on its verticle axis, adapting it to
the use of a large equatorial telescope. There are al-
io 17 separate dwellings, occupied by the officers of the
institutipn, a chapel, a hospital, a mess hall, two cav-
alry stables, several .workshops and storerooms, to which
may be added a magazine, a labratory, soldiers bar-
racks, a store and about 25 dwelling houses occupied
by families connected with the institution.

On the extreme eastern point of this military posi-
tion, at an elevation of 160 feet above the Hudson, is
situated Fort Arnold ; and on Mount Independence, a-
bout 500 feet above the river, and about 1000 yards
to the south-west of the Academy, is situated Fort Put-
nam. There are also numerous other redoubts and bat-

i; t'l

\VK<T ruiNT — mo.\i;mi:\t to koslii^ko.

Sl>

itratPgy,
expense

it ion arc
• of four
ee story
a width,
reposito-
ification,
beautiful
n got hie
irary and
•e is 150
front has
isual way
tower is
le whole
ting it to
:e are al-
:ers of the
two cav-
to which
iers bar-
occupied

ary posi-
udson, is
idence, a-
00 yards
Fort Put-
s and bat-

teries, crowning the various omitiencet? in the vicinity,
built under the direction of the celebrated Kosciusko

as engineer.

No place in the Union probably, exceeds West Point
in regard to its beauty of location, and the stirring in-
cidents connected with its early history ; being hallow-
ed by the footsteps of Washington and Kosciusko during
the revolutionary struggle- In the year 1777, imme-
diately after the capture of Forts Clinton and Mont-
gomery by the British army. West Point was occupied
by the American army and fortified at the instance of
Governor George Clinton, of revolutionary memory.
In August, 1780, it was placed under the command of
Gen. Arnold, who in September, basely agreed to sur-
render it to the British. But his treason having been
discovered by the capture of Major Andre, his object
was not effected. Close to the shore of the Hudson,
stands a large white marble Monument, bearing the
name of Kosciusko, which is a ver}^ beautiful structure.
There is also here a spacious and well kept hotel where
visitors will meet with every accommodation that a
kind host can bestow.

At the distance of about 5 miles up the river, are
Crow's Nest and Butter Hill, two high and beautiful
peaks; the former being 1410, and the latter 1529 feet
in hei";ht, above the waters of the Hudson. They are
situated opposite Breakneck Peak, the last of the range
ol Highland; on the east side of the river. The profile
of a human face (called Turkis face,) can be seen on
the point of rock which projects farthest out. A few
miles above this is the town of Windsor, a tjourishin^

^riMCRY OF TIIK iriDBOX.

place, near whicli is Newburg, with a population of
8,933, a city very beautifully built on the declivity of
a hill. It probably makes a better appearance from
the river than from any other point. The place how-
ever, contains many iine houses and some handsome
streets, being also a place of considerable trade having
a number of boats and several excellent pier sand ware-
houses. • About a quarter of a mile south of the town
stands the old stone house, in which Washington held
his quarters, at the time the celebrated Newburg Let-
ters made their appearance.

Duchess County, {east side.) — The towns of Fishkill,
with a population of 10,437, Hamburg and Barnegat
are each pleasantly i^ituated betwoen the Breakneck
Peak, the last of the Highlands, and the city of Pough-
keepsie ; having in their rear a rich agricultural region
of country, and may be said to be in a prospering con-
dition. They possess some points of interest for river
towns, especially Fishkill, memorable for the head-quar-
ters of Washington during a wrtion of the campaign
of 1780.

In passing through the mountain gorges which ^^ive
passage to the waters of the Hudson, we were at times
overshadowed by the towering peaks of the Highland
range, and at others the eye could range over a pros-
pect, which for variety is rarely surpassed. The scenes
which skirt the margin of the Hudson until it reaches
the Catskill mountain, consist of numerous objects of
romantic interest, where is presented a checkered land-
scape of hill and dale, meadow and thicket, as well as
the o;raceful forest tree, with tha earth benor»^»^ ;♦ m.^-..

ftKNfiRY or Tllli Mru»ox.

lation «f
clivity of
ice from
ace how-
landsomc
le having
ind ware-
the town
orton held

burg Lt't-

fFishkill,

Barnegat

breakneck

of Pousch-

iral region

;ring con-

for river

lead-quar-

campaign

riVQ

hich

•e at times

Hisihland
er a pros-
rhe scenes

it reaches
objects of
Lered land-
as well as

ered with a profusion of wild flowers. After emerging
from those picturesqiif and attractivegorgc's, and leaving
behind us the last peak of the Highlands, on the cast
side of the Hudson a broad and beautiful valley spread
its verdant bosom before us with all the charms of vi'jx-
etation, while in the distance the blue Catskill moun-
tain reared its towering summit conspiciously to our
gaze. Poughkoepsie, a town with 7500 inhabitants, at-
tracted attention, beinoj situated with the highest regard
to beauty of location, the buildings and grounds display-
ing much taste. Its importance as a river town is consid-
erable, as it has an extensive back country to support its
commerce. The eye of the passenger is met in success*" n
by the towns of Hyde Park, Straatsburg, Rhinebeck,
Redhook, Claremont, Marlborough, Milton, Paltz, Pel-
ham, Kingston, Columbus, Glasgom, Bristol, and a num-
ber of others presenting activity and beauty.

Columbia County, {east side.) — The city of Hudson,
With 5472 inhabitants, is situated on a- high and com-
manding eminence, overlooking the river, being ad-
vantageously located 116 miles north of the city of
New York. The city has in its employ seven or eight
whale ships and four steamboats, with a number of
freight barges, besides several sloops employed in the
transportation of produce and merchandise to and from
different places. The city has in its employ a steam
ferrv-boat which plies regularly between the city and
Athens on the opposite side of the river. The city
was first settled in 1783, and received a charter in
1785. It contains a large and beautiful Court House,
l\ij feet in length, and other count v buil^i'i'^'' • "-^-^ ^^^'»

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23 WeST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

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lAlSKIl.L Mot'NTAr.N,

Hudson Lunatic Asylum, situated on State street, fa-
cing the Court House on the south, with delightful
grounds attached, adorned with the choicest species of
flowering shrubbery. A spring at the footof Becraft's
mountain, two miles from the city, supplies it with water.

Greene County^ [west side.) — Athens has a popula-
tion of 2387, is situated opposite the city oi Hudson,
with which it is connected by a steam ferry-boat which
runs regularly every hour during the day, in a canal
which has been cut through a low, marshy island in
the river, between the two places. The town is loca-
ted on a very beautiful plain, gently sloping towards
the river. A large number of sloops sail from this
J. lace; the wharf presenting a busy scene indeed for so
small a place. The inhabitants show many signs of
having received lessons on commerce at New York or
some other great mart. The town is adorned with nu-
merous mansions of private gentlemen.

The next town worthy of notice is Catskill, a place
with 2800 inhabitants. It is located on both sides of
the Catskill creek, near its junction wiih the Hudson;
the principal street being situated about half a mile
west of the steamboat landing. The town contains some
fine churches and dwellings, especially on its principal
street ; which are ornamented with handsome avenues
of trees of various speeies, many of which presented a
graceful appearance. A most beautiful Pine orchard
or grove, to the southwest of the town on Catskill moun^
tain, is a favorite resort of travellers in the warm months.
A handsome hotel has been erected there several years
^a the brow of a' great rt^ck, at an elevation of about

At.CANV.

1200 feet abuve the Hudson ; which commands a most
charming view, embractng about 70 miles from north
to south on the valley of the Hudson and the hilly
country to the east, including a number of peaks of the
Green mountain range, in Massachusetts and Vermont,
which presented the most romantic and sublime ap^
pearance in the distance. During my visit to this
mountain, a thunder storm could be seen passing down
the valley of the Hudson. It seemed to be below a
level with the hotel, and presented a scene grand and
awful. The air was cool, which is said to be the case
during the year. Two ponds in rear of the hotel unite
their streams, and the water falls 175 feet and soon al-
ter again 85 feet into an immense ravine between two
ridges of mountains.

C H A P T E R IX.

Albany — Eric and Clnmplain Canals — IJasin — Boats — Site of
Albany — Heights — Prospect — Capitol Square — City Hall —
State Hall — Academies — Capitol — Public Buildings-Old Buil-
dings — Public Squares — Streets — Grcenbush- Railroads-Troy
— Public Buildings — Institution — Manufactories — Steamboats
— Water power — Railroads — Streets — Mounts Olympus and
Ida — Prospect— Landslip — Quaker Village — Drees and mode
of worship — Scenery of the Hudson — Departure for Buffalo.

The city of Albany with a population of 41,339, is
the capitol of New York, being one of the oldest cities
in the Union. The place was originally called Beav-
er Wyck or Beavertown, alter which it received the
name of Williamstadt : not receiving the name of Al-

94.

Al.nAW.

ban J till the year 1664, in honor of Jamca, Duke of
York and Albany, afterwards James II, in whose reign
Governor Dongan chartered it as a city, July 22, 1886.
It is situated on the west bank of the Hudson river, 150
miles north of New York city, and is classed the second
city in the State in population, wealth and resources.
It is indebted for its prosperity to the enterprise ol its
inhabitants, and the impulse given to its trade by the
Erie and Champlain Canals, which enter the Hudson
river at the north end of the city, previously uniting
eight miles north of the centre of the city, and termi-
naring at a basin, which is formsd in the Hudson river
by a pier, one mile and a quarter in length, furnishing
a safe harbor for vessels of all descriptions, and secu-
ring them from injury by the ice, which in the spring
freshets comes down the river in immense quantities,
sometimes causing great damage. In this splendid ba-
sin, sloops, tow-boats and canal-boats are brought side
by side, or have their cargoes exchanged over the pier.
The city is commanding in its situation, and appears
to great advantage from the river. There are three ra-
vines running from east to west, known as the Foxes
Rill, the Rutten Rill and the Beaver Rill, on either
side of which the land is high, being at an elevation
of from 150 to 160 feet high, which is gained by a
gradual ascent from the Hudson. The view from these
heights is picturesque in the highest degree. To the
north may be seen the city of Troy and the adjacent
villages, and in the distance the hills and mountain
peaks of Vermont ; to the east the beautiful extent of
country lying beyond the Hudson river, and to the

riTAAe r.nL!>i\«:« or xr.hANv.

south are the bold Helderberg and Catskill mountains,
>vith the noble Hudson gliding at their base, ^hosc
transparent bright waves, mingling with the golden
rays of the sun, appeared like liquid gold in the sun-
light, while rolling in sublime griindeurat the base of
the towering Helderbergs.

The Capitol occupies a delightful elevated situation
at the head of State street, being located in the midst
of a large and splendid square, formed by Capitol and
Academy Parks, which arc enclosed with a substantial
iron fence erected on stone cappings, and are laid out
with walks lined with ornamental trees of the choicest
species. A more delightfut square in summer, is not
to be found in any city in the Union. There are a
number of public buildings facing this splendid square,
among which are the City Hall, lacing the west. This
is a noble edifice of white marble, 110 feet long and
80 feet wide, surmounted by a gilded dome 40 feet in
diameter. This structure is occupied at certain peri-
ods by the Courts of the United States Circuit, of Com-
mon Pleas, the Mayor, &c. The State Hall, for the
accommodation of public officers, ii a massive and ele-
gant structure, 140 feet long and 90 feet wide, erected
at a cost of $350,000. The Albany Academy, having
400 pupils, is a very splendid edifice of red freestone j
and the Female Academy, erected in 1834, a building
possessing many attractive features, are among the beau-
tiful buildings facing the capitol square.

The Capitol itself, is situated in the centre of this
great square, facing the cast. It is a large and superh
edifice, built of hewn sandstone, having a large and

!^6

ftl n.DIN(*iS ANt) STIirims Ol' ALB.AN'Vi

splend'ul gilded dome, surmounted by a cupola or cir*
cular lantern, which is in turn surmounted by a statue
of Justice, holding overhead a large gilded scale. The
east and west fronts of the Capitol are adorned with a
heavy and powerful portico, each containing twelve
massive fluted columns. The interior of the building
contains two spacious and richly furnished chambers
for the Senate and Assembly. Much taste and gran-
deur is displayed in the chambers and the whole of the
capitol of the Empire Slate. In addition to the cham-
bers, are rooms for the Supreme and Chancellor's Court,
an office for the Governor, rooms for committees, ju-
rors, &c.

In addition to the public buildings noticed, the city
contains 19 others, all of which are large and posses-
sing much elegance, among which may be named, the
Albany Exchange, a massive granite structure, con-
taining four wholesale stores, the Post Office, &c. The
Medical College occupies a building admirably adapted
for the purposes of its design. This College possesses
one of the most valuable museums in our country. —
The Albany Orphan Asylum, St. Joseph's Orphan A-
sylum, (a Catholic Institution for females only, under
the charge of the Sisters of Charity,) the Museum,
Stanwix Hall, Knickerbocker Hali, two beautiful halls.
The ceiling and walls of the latter are very, tastefully
ornamented in the Italian style. The ball-room of
Stanwix Hall is the largest in America, and is lighted
by a dome 60 feet high, supported by four columns and
eight antas. The Athceneum, the Commercial and
PcnnBuildinirsare amoniithe jirrat buildings of the city.

ALDAN Y — GRKE.NBUMl.

Albany was founded !)y the Dutch as early aslG23,
who appear to have had singular ideas of architecture,
at least so far as we find them displayed in Albany ; as
the city contains many of those old, antiquated, gablc^
ended, top-heavy houses, v^hose singular points ol ar-
chitecture, with a great fleece of moss clinging to their
roofs and walls, which time has woven around them,
causes them to present an ancient and gloomy Rppear-
ance ; among which may be seen se^n^ral old churches,
whose walls according to the inscriptions on the i^ock
above the doors, have received the tempests of those
regions for more than two centuries. The whole num-
her of church edifices is 31, a large portion of which
are of considerable elegance, some being iituated ad-
joining the public squares, of which the city abounds,
there being no less than 11 delightful public squares
distributed through the city for the accommodation of
the inhabitants. Albany contains many rough and nar-
row streets. Their roughness is owing in a considera-
ble degree to the rising ground the city occupies and
their being paved with round river rock, which are al-
ways kept bare by the action of the rains. Over these
rouo^h streets are constantly thundering scores of omni-
busses, cabs and drays, w^hich is somewhat annoying to
a stranger from a quiet home in thf' country.

The town ofGreenbush, with !J700 inhabitants, is

situated on the east bank of the Hudson, opposite the

south port of Albany, with which it has a ro<nilar con>

mimication by steam ferry. The Uo.^ton and Albany

Railroad terminates in the north part of this town. —

Thi"* road forms an uninterrupted cajninnnicalion with
.5

TKor.

the city oi' Boilon, and is one ot tho greatest links be-
tween the castorn and western States ; a railroad being
constructed from this town to the city of Troy, where
it unites with tho Troy and Schenectady railroad, thus
forming a regular connected railroad line from Boston
to Buffalo on Lake Erie, a distance of 530 miles.

Troy, with 26,709 inhabitants, is pleasantly situated
on the east bank of the Hudson, at the head of tide wa-
ter and steamboat navigation, six miles above Albany,
and 156 north of the city of New York. Its existence
as a village may be dated from 1790. It was incorpo-
rated as a city in 1816, and has recently been made a
port of entry. The inhabitants are mostly engaged in
commerce, trade and manufactures, especially since
the completion of the Erie and Champlain canals, which
unite tha waters of the Lakes with those of the Hud-
son at this place, to which the city is endebted for the
rapid increase of its wealth. Here are situated a fine
Court-House, built of marble, on tho Grecian Doric or-
der ; a Jail, constructed of brick ; a county Poor-house,
to which a farm containing 200 acres is attached i the
Rensselaer Institute, founded by the Hon. Stephen Van
Rensselaer, where the sciences are practically taught
to young men under the charge of Professor Green ;
the Troy Female Seminary, a floui ishing chartered in-
stitution ; the Troy Academy, also an excellent classi-
cal and chartered institution, for the education of boys ,
btsides stveral select schools for males and females. —
Troy contains two new, finely modeled and extensive
market buildings, 8 Presbyterian churches, 4 Episco-
pal, 3 Baptist, 4< Methodist, 2 Roman Catholic, 1 Uni-

Trov.

bere
thus
jston

ic 01-
houise,
I i the
jnVan

versalist, 1 Frieiitl'8 meolin^-houso, ti JcvviBh Syna-
gogues, f) Banks, 1 Mutual Insurance Company, 1 Ly-
ceum of Natural History, with a choice scientific li-
brary, and an extensive collection of minerals and col-
lections in various branches of natural history, a young
men's association for mutual improvement, with a large
library, an extensive reading room, and a select cabi-
net of curiosities, 20 Hotels, '3t importing houses, and
400 dry goods and grocerie.s, and other stores.

In the manufacturing lino may be named, 4« cotton
factories, 2 woollen factories, 10 flour and plaister mills,
1 saw-mill, 2 paper mills, 3 extensive iron rolling and
slitting mills, 4 furnaces, 8 lulling mills, 7 tanneries,
several large factories for boots and shoes, 3 breweries,
1 distillery, 1 pottery, 5 stage coach, railroad car, car-
riage and wagon factories, 6 printing offices, 10 hat
and fur cap factories, 2 steam planing mills, 1 brush
factory, 4 looking glass and picture frame factories, 1
hammer and hoe factory, a large number of tin, sheet
iron, stove, chair and cabinet factories, besides factories
and workshops of almost every description. Here are
owned about 60 masted vessels, 7 larje passage steam-
boats of the first class, among which ix <ty be named the
Troy and Niagara, which are 296 feet in length and
62 feet in width ; the diameter of their wheels is 31
feet and 13 feet wide ; the Niagara has one vertical
engine 600 horse power, with one cylinder 5 feet in
diameter, giving 11 feet stroke to the piston. The
boat draws only 4i feet, with wood and water on board
for passage, whose tonage is 770 tons. The Troy is
of the same dimensions and has the same tonage, with-

4 A

100

TROY.

two of Ml*. Win. A. Lighthall's patent horizontal pis-
ton's (a groat improvement,) attached, with only 300
horso power, and yet it impels it with as much rapidi-
ty as the other, as the power of the piston acts directly
upon the craixc. Besides these boats there are 22 bar-
ges, with 6 steam tow-boats which ply between Troy
and New York, transporting annually an iinmensc a-
mount of produce and merchandise.

The water power at Troy is immense, and a large
portion within the limits of the city is still unoccupied.
About a mile east of the Hudson, a tunnel hns been
excavated by Mr. Benjamin Marshall, extending a dis-
tance of SOO feet, from the Poestenkill, giving a fall of
180 feet. Several large mills and factories to be sup-
plied with water from this fall, were in progress of e-
rection. Near the northern part of the city, a dam
has been built across the Hudson by the State, which
here makes a fall of 11 feet, and creates an uncalcula-
ble amount of hydraulic power. This city is abun-
dantly supplied with wholesome water, brought from
the Piskawin creek through iron pipes, with hydrants
at the corners of the streets for the extinguishment ot
fires. A great reservoir is situated in the north part
of the cit}', about half a mile east of the Hudson, about
90 feet above the tide waters of the river. The water
is carried by the force of its head, above the highest
house in the city, and if used for domestic purposes as
well as lor the extinguishment of fires. The Rensse-
lear and Saratoga railroad commences at this city,
crossing the Hudson river by a substantial bridge, 1650
■feet in Icngih, to Green Island ; thence it cojitinucs

inoY.

101

north across sovrral branch«»s of IIk: Mohawk river to
Wuterlord, following the valley of the Hudson, until
it reaches Merhanicksville, where it iliverjijes to th(»
west and continues to iiallston Spa, a distance of 24<
miles, and unites with the Saraloi^a and Schenectady
railroad ; while a branch runs directly to Schenectady,
forming the line already noticed from Boston to HufTa-
lo. The city of Troy has long been celebrated for its
beauty and healthiness; the streets are laid out at right
angles, are generally wide, remarkable for their clean-
liness and planted with beautiful, and in the hot season,
most grateful forest and shade trees. From Mount Ida
on the east and Mount Olympus on the north, an ex-
tensive and charming prospect is presented : embracing
a view of the Valley of the Hudson for many miles;
the city of Albany on the rising ground it occupies,
with its glittering domes and steeples, presents a scene
delightful in the highest degree, while the towns of
West Troy, Lansingburg, Waterford, Cohoes, Cohues
Falls, with a landscape presenting more beauty and a
greater variety of scenery than can possibly be descri-
bed ; among which can be seen a curious landslip which
took place in 1812, which consists of the western side
of Mount Olympus, together with a contiguous portion
of Mount Ida, having slid down in the Hudson, and
caused the death of several persons who were unable
to escape the sliding mount.

While at this city, curiosity induced me to visit a
Quaker village, several miles distant, which 1 found to
possess much order, neatness and beauty. The village
consists of a common doniain or stock, in which each

101

gUAKKR Vlt.LAGK.

havo an equal «haro. The (Quaker's ilress in either
grey or drab chielly of a fine qnality, often made some-
what like a waistcoat, without phtits on the sides and
without buttons on the ]>ocUeLs or sleeves ; their hats
bDad-hrirniTied aiul horizontal, the socks white with a
neat shoe, rarely wearing a boot. The dress of tho
worn<Mi is brown or some plain dark color, generally
fine. All the politeness they aim at is an open, frank
access and natural easy conversation. Meditation,
prayer, recollection, contemplation and reading the Bi-
ble are the chief devotions which the Quakers use at
homo. Their outward exercises of devotion consist of
a piofound contemplation, often resulting in a sullen
silence for two or three hours, till some one of them,
man or woman rises either with a composed motion or
in a kind of transport, as if actuated by an irrcsistable
j).)wer, and often with siii;hs, groans and tears. This
is caused as they pretend, by the impression of the
spirit, which often awakens these stupified persons,
after several hours spent in entering into a serious con-
sideration of the state of their own souls, during which
meditation according to their doctrine, the spirit pre-
pares to itself hidden ways to penetrate into the hearts
of the faithful; then it breaks- forth in sermons and ex-
hortations or pslaiTiody, during which those not inspi-
red to speak, remain in a state of recollection, examin-
ing themselves, attended with sighs and groans. From
the inward conflict of the spirit against the flesh, pro-
ceed those bodily motions, those shakings and tremb-
lings with which the faithful are seized, which seldom
fiiils to extend to the whole Quaker congregation be-

.bCCNURY or Tin; UL'DSON.

10.1

loro their dismission, and the shaking, tron»bliMg,jurup-
inn;, and singing is culercd into with such ardor that
the whole assemhly-roora or house of worship present*
a scene which almost scorns to be agitated by an earth-
quake or some other convulsion of nature.

Alter a few hours spent in the Quaker village and
house of worship, which presented scenes as interest-
ing as they were singular, we ascended a second time.
Mount Olympus and Ida to snjoy the magnificent pros-
pect their summits alTord, then returned to Troy, ac-
cording to our determination when in the city of New
York, having halted at the principal places of interest
along the shores of the noble Hudson, and on one oc-
casion leitthe river for the purpose of visiting Catskill
and several other places on the left bank of the river,
whose margin is a continued scene of interest. The
scenery of the Hudson, on the east and west banks, be-
came extremely grand and picturesque soon after leav-
ing the city of New Yorkl On the western bank of
the river, commence those lofty and grand precipices
of columnar basalt, which are Irom 400 to GOO feet in
height, called the Palisades, which are extremely pic-
turesque, and the scenery on all hands imposing. On
arriving at the Highlands the winding of the channel
is closed in by steep hills on both sides, and the vessel
often held her course as if bearing directly on Igind, —
The stranscer cannot guess in which direction he is to
penetrate the rocky gorge : but he soon emerges again
into a broad valley, when the blue Catskill mountains
appear in the distance, which are found on a nearer
aoDroach to be very imposing and picturofjque in their

lOi'

sciixiiHY or tiil: iild&on.

appearance. The j^raiui scenery of the nohle Hiul.son
deserves all the praise v'hich can be lavisheJ upon it-
From the city ol 'iVoy, my route lay west up the
famous Mohawk Valley by the city of Schenectady,
by way of Trenton Falls, the city of Utica, and Roth-
ester, continuing west to the city of BuHalo on Lake
Erie, which route I found to contain scores of the most
ilourishing cities, towns and villages to be found in the
Union, all situated in the most fertile and highly cul-
tivated portion of the State of New York, which was
ijut a few years ago a perfect wilderness, filled with
marshes and swamps and in every way, had all the
charms of savage wildness.

CHAPTER X

Schenectady — Historical Sketch— Mohawk Valley — Erie Canal
— Bridge — Union College — Towns — Little Falls — Utica — Site
of Fo^t Schuyler — Historical Sketch — Lunatic Asylum —
Bridges — Plains of Orlskany — Trenton Falls— Imposing Scene-
ry — Iloine — Reflections on the great Progress of the Country-
Towns — Syracuse — Salina — Onondago Salt Springs — Towns
— Auburn — State Prison — Cayuga Lake — Bridge — Seneca
Lake — Seneca Falls — Villages — Genesee Valley — Rochester
— Great A.queduct — Genesee Falls — Manufactures — Public
Buildii\gs — Erie Canal — Bridges — High State of Agriculture
— Le Roy Falls — Towns.

Schenectady County. — ^The city of Schenectady,
with a population of 6.555 is beautifully situated on
the south bank of the Mohawk river, 16 miles Irom the

SrHKNEctibVi

105

city of Albany, with which it is connected by the
Hudson and Mohawk railroad. This place is celebra-
ted as beinpr onco the headquarters of* the Mohawk In-
dians ; and also for the dreadful Saturday ni^^ht of Feb-
ruary, 1G90, when the inhabitants v.ere inhumanly
massacred by the French and Indians, directed by Count
Frontenac, Governor of Canada, against the colony of
New York. It appears the inhabitants of the place
wer« warned of their danger ; but thinking themselves
secure, as the season was dreadful cold and the snow
go deep that it was deemed impossible for an enemy to
approach. — But the attack was made in the dead hour
of night, while the inhabitants were in a profound sleep;
not a sentinel was awake to announce the approach of
the savage monster, who was stealing through the streets
of their delightful village, arranging his bloody demons
al ^very door ; when alas for slumbering Schenectady,
they were aroused by the appalling war-whoop ol the
savage monster, who at a given signal fell upon his a-
waking and terrified victim, when men and women
with their slumbering infants, were dragged from their
beds, and inhumanly murdered. It is scarcely possible
to describe that awful scene. Sixty persons perished
in the massacre ; thirty were made prisoners, while
the rest of the inhabitants, mostly naked, fled through
the deep snow, either suffering extremely or perishe4
in the cold ; while every house was set on fire, and
the Indians rendered frantic by the wild scene, ran
through the streets slaying those they chanced to meet.
And thug was the colony of New York, for her own

negligence, called upon to mourn the sad fate of her
5*

PtI

106

TOWNS AND VILLAGE?.

beautiful Schenectady, so handsomely situated in the
famous Mohawk valley.

The present city received a charter in 1798, and is
now a very flourishing and handsome place, situated
in ? very beautiful valley, all in a high state of culti-
vation and a region of country possessing many attrac-
tions as well as the city. It is connected with the city
of Troy by a railroad, called the Schenectady and Troy
railroad. The Erie canal passes through this place. —
The Hudson and Mohawk railroad crosses the river
near the city, by a long and splendid bridge. The city
contains a number of large and handsome dwellings ; it
being well laid out ; the streets are broad, well paved
and ornamented with shade trees. The Union College
at this place, is a celebrated literary institution, loca-
ted about half a mile from the city, was iounded in
1795, is truly handsomely situated, the grounds taste-
fully laid out and the buildings large and handsome.

Montgomery county, — In passing through this beau-
tiful county, I passed through a number of very flour-
ishing villages, among which are Hoffman's Ferry,
Cran's Village, Amsterdam, having a population ol 5,-
333, Tribe's Hill, Fanda, Yost, Spaker, Palatine Bridge,
Fort Plain, Palatine Church and St. Johns ville, all re-
markable for their prosperity. The town of Amster-
dam is beautifully situated on the north bank of the
Mohawk river, about 15 miles up the river from the
city of Schenectady. The town is well laid out and
contains some fine private dwellings, and several beau-
tiful, well built churches, situated on fine streets. The
town is finely situated for business, the Utica and Sche-

nectady
county
Frankfo
habitant
river ; t
the nort
a very
Falls, tl
red to »
Trentor
Onei
tion of
branch
the site
fort of !
to the I
this for
Leger,
of Oris
8urren(
haughi
rison \
render
theBi
to con
theB
said V
get 01
outsic
come
-a deg

HISTORICAL SKETCH.

107

the

md is
-uated
culti-
ttrac-
ecity

Troy

nectady railroad passing through the place. Herkimet
county contains the towns of Manhiem, Little Falls,
Frankford and Herkimer, containing nearly 4000 in-
habitants each, all beautifully situated on the Mohawk
river ; the village of Herkimer being at the junction of
the northern and western branches. The towns are in
a very flourishing condition. At the town of Little
Falls, there is a considerable waterfall, which is admi-
red to some extent, notwithstanding its proximity to
Trenton Falls.

Oneida county, — The city of Utica, with a popula-
tion of 12,190, is delightfully situated on the western
branch of the Mohawk river, on its southern bank, on
the site of Fort Schuyler, which appears to have been a
fort of great importance during our revolution. It was
to the noble and patriotic Gansevoort, commander of
this fort, then situated in a perfect wilderness, that St.
Leger, the British commander, afler the bloody battle
of Oriskany, sent a messenger with a summons for its
surrender. The daring commander coolly read the
haughty summons, which threatened him and his gar-
rison with the Indians, if he did not voluntarily sur-
render the fort. The same daring Gansevoort wrote
the British commander a stern reply, refusing thereby
to comply with his request ; and when handing it to
the British messenger, looking him full in the face,
said with all the sarcasm he was made of, "after you
get out of the fort, you may turn round and look at the
outside, but never expect to come in again, unless you
come a prisoner. I consider the message you brought
-a degrading one for a British officer to send, and by no

lOS

HISTORICAL SKETCH.

mcaDs a reputable one for a British officer to carry. —
For my own part, beibre I would consent to deliver
this garrison to such a murderous set as )'our army by
your own account, consists of, I would suffer my body
to be filled with splinters and set on fire, as you know
has at times been practised by such hordes of women
and children killers, as belong to your army."

Thus was saved FortJSchuyler, by the noble daring
of its commander : and while the heroic Stark was stri-
king Gen. Bur^-oyne a staggering blow at Bennington,
in Vermont, the commander ot this fort broke up his
plans with regard to St. Leger, who was to decend the
Mohawk river, crush every thing in his passage, and
meet him at the city of Albany, on the Hudson river.
Thus Burgoyne, by the valor of fort Schuyler, did not
succeed in hemming in the American army, as he an-
ticipated ; but found himself locked in on every side,
and the heavens gathering blackness over his head, till
the intrepid Arnold gave him the finishing blow on the
bloody plains of Saratoga, where he was compelled to
surrender soon afterwards.

The city which now occupies the memorable emi-
nence on which stood the ioi-t, received a charter in
1830. The city contains many fine dwellings and sev-
eral splendid public buildings, among which may be na-
med the State Lunatic Asylum, built of grey stone, one
of the largest and best conducted institutions of the kind
perhaps in the United States, being 550 feet in length,
50 feet deep and cost about $350,000. The Erie ca-
nal passes through the city, and is crossed by a number
of beautiful and substantial bridges.

TLAttii OF OlllSIvANY

109

While at this city I visited the plains of Oriskany,
situated near this place, which is celebrated for the
complete surprise olthe Americans under the command
of Gen. Herkimer, by the British and Indians under
the command of St. Leger, during the seige of fort
Schuyler. This bloody field is a semicircular in form,
and the road on which Herkimer was marching dipped
into a deej) ravine, crossed by a causeway of logs, over
which he had passed, when the Indians with a terrific
yell, closed in his rear, and took possession of the cause-
way, and thus cooped him up in a little semicircular
spot of woods, in which took place that terrible conflict
which will lorever stand as a monument of American
valor.

At the city of Utica I lelt my main route, which
was west, and went up the north branch of the Mohawk
river, a distance of about 10 miles, for the purpose of
seeing Trenton Falls, which is truly a grand waterfall.
The town of Trenton contaiiifi a population of 3178, and
is a very beautiful town situated within a mile of the
Falls. The Falls can be viewed on either side of the
river, there being a path constructed down each of the
precipices, by blasting the rocks ; this path, Jiowever,
at some places is very narrow^, at which places there is
a chain let into the rock, which answers as a kind o|
banister, to which the passenger can hold, to make his
aseent or descent more secure. After following down
this dangerous path some distance, it brings him below
the Falls, where the scene impresses him with awe ;
the waters roar through very deep chasms between two
walls of rock about 150 [eet in perpendicular height

TRENTON I'ALLS.

and not more than 40 or 50 feet wide. The strata of
the rock are so equally divided that they appear like a
solid wall of masonry to the height of GO or 70 feet
above the rushing waters. Above that height, the pre-
cipice presents a rough appearance, and contains
some small bushes, which continue to near the summit,
which is crowned with splendid forest trees, some of
them inclining over the mighty chasm, as if they
would peep into the abyss below, and witness the tu-
mult of the waters. As the stranger stands in this deep
narrow chasm, he is hid from the sight of all, except
those who accompany him. Owing to the height of
the precipices, which are arched by the towering for-
est trees above, but a small portion of the heavens can
be seen, and what little can be ^een, is not blue, but of
a misty, murky grey. In this condition the first sen-
sation is that of dizziness, and confusion, from the un-
usual absence of the sky above, and the dashing fran-
tic speed of the angry boiling waters at your feet. —
This part of the scene is called the rapids, and I con-
sidered them much grander than the Falls themselves ;
for here is one rapid confined down in a deep narrow
chasm, between two river rocks, which is painful to
look upon and watch its deep and mighty plunge and
with what irresist^able force the waters dash down, &
then return to their own surface, apparently as if
struorcclii^s: and out of breath.

The stranger in standing over this angry rapid, ga-
zing over its wild career, and listening to their roar-
ing, and marking the madness of their speed, he will
feel a sensation of awe, an inward acknowledgment of

TRENTON FALLS.

Ill

the tremendous powers of Nature. He now leaves the
angry rapid and aacends the narrow path, till he arrives
at the lower falls, which generally extends over only
about half the rock, the other being bare, till it is o-
verflowed by a freshet. Over half the rock pours
a very rapid column of water, with the greatest impet-
uosity. Above the fall is a wooden bridge, over which
a person may pass to the other side ; the bridge passes
over a series of little falls, resembling a staircase, which
is truly very picturesque.

The stranger may now ascend the river to the up-
per falls, or he may climb up a ladder, perhaps one
hundred feet long, which will bring him to a footing,
from which he has a fine view of the upper falls which
seem tame, after witnessing the savage impetuosity of
the rapids below, from which footing he may descend
again the same ladder, or he may ascend another one
of considerable length, which will bring him to the
summit, where he will find a path marked out by the
broad chip of the woodman's axe, which he may fol-
low to the upper falls, where he will find the scene
splendid, the mountain rising high on one side of the
river, while he casts his eye down the deep chasm,
with its black perpendicular rocks, between which are
a succession of falls, while his ear is saluted by the
roaring of the mighty rapids below, which are over-
shadowed with tall forest trees rising toward the clouds,
while through their majestic boughs, the vapor ascends
in sublime grandeur, from the falling waters beneath
them. '

The faces- of manv of the rocks about the falls, are as

112

MOHAWK YALLUV.

is usually the case scribbled over, by those who would
obtain cheap celebrity} many of the scribblers have a
name and nothing more, as many of their productions
are more gross than witty. From one of these rocks
which form the mighty precipice on each side of the
deep gulf, a very sad accident happened a few years
ago. A young lady from the city of New York, came
with some of her friends to see the falls ; she approach-
ed the edge of one of the highest rocks, and while look-
ing down into the awiul chasm beneath, and her friends
not being near enough to protect her, she fell from the
verge of the cliff on which she was standing, to a great
depth below, and was instantly killed by the fall.

From Trenton Falls, I again steered my course west
where I arrived at Rome, having a population of 5680,
which is beautifully situated on the western branch of
the Mohawk river, in an attractive and fertile region
of country, being situated on the Utica and Syracuse
railroad, and at the junction of the Black river Canal,
with the Erie Canal, it therefore has a communication
with Lake Ontario, by the way of Sackets Harbour, &
Lake Erie in the west and the Hudson river in the east,
by means of the Erie canal. The town is a busy, hand-
some and flourishing place, well built and laid out,
containing several large and elegant church edifices.

By the time I arrived at this place, I viewed with
surprise the numerous handsome and flourishing cities,
towns and villages which I passed through since leav-
ing the city of Schenectady, situated down the Mo-
hawk valley about 90 miles. My surprise was still in-
creased, when informed that they were more numer-

ous fron
route I
portunit
torprise
found tl
bling vi
ment, ir
tod with
where b
met the
feet cha
these hij
most floi
dations ^
gion aln
whole o
the fovei
to repin
of those
the unh
here no^
changed
attracti\
wide th
wildnes!
and the
Buf t
enliven
Here, ii
pomp ai
coming

iTtOuriEsa OF tiiu co until y.

uus from Rome westward, than on tho Mohawk, the
route I had just came. Here then, I had another op-
portunity of reading in hold characters, the noble en-
terprise and industry of the northern man. Here I
found the country, as it were ahnost one continued ram-
bling village, which have sprung up as by enchant-
ment, in a region a few years ago a dense forest, spot-
ted with swamps, covered with equatic trees and shrubs,
where but very few if any points of picturesque beauty
met the eye ; the whole presenting nothing but a per-
fect charm of savage wildness. When we reflect on
these highly cultivated regions, bespangled with the
most flourishing cities, towns and villages, whose foun-
dations were laid by persons still living, and which re-
gion already numbers a population greater than the
whole of the aboriginal hunting tribes, who possessed
the forest for hundreds of miles around, we soon cease
to repine at the extraordinary revolution in the history
of those tribes, however much we may commiserate
the unhappy fate of the disinherited race. — Because
here now the noble enterprise of the white man has so
changed the aspect of this region, that upon every hand
attractive beauty meets the eye ; and here now far and
wide the aboriginal forest has lost its charms of savage
wildness, by the beauties of cities, towns and villages,
and the intrusion of railroads and canals.

Buf there are also other objects of intense interest to
enliven or excite the imagination of every traveller. —
Here, instead of dwelling on the past, he sees signs of
pomp and splendour, filling the mind with images ol
coming power and grandeur, The vast strides made

114.

TOWNS AND VILLAGEtS.

by ono generation in a brief space of time, naturally
disposes us to look forward with an eager eye, to the
rapid rate of future improvement. The contemplation
of so much prosperity, such entire absence of poverty
or want, so many schoolhouscs and churches rising ev-
ery where within his view in this new region, and
such a general desire of education ; with a conscious-
ness that a great continent lies beyond, which has ftiH
to be appropriated, fill the traveller with cheering
thoughts and sanguine hopes. He may, however, be
reminded that there is another side to the picture ; that
where the success has been so brilliant, and where large
fortunes have been hastily realised, there will be rash
speculations and bitter disappointments; but these ideas
do not force themselves into the reveries oi the passing
stranger. He sees around him the solid fruits of victo-
ry, and forgets that many a soldier in the foremost
ranks, has fallen in the breach 3 and cold indeed would
be his temperament if he did not sympathize with the
freshness and hopefulness of a new country like this,
and feel as men past the prime of life are accustomed
to feel, when in company with the young who are full
of health and buoyant spirits, of faith and confidence
in the future.

We found our route from Rome to the city of Au-
burn, through the counties of Madison and Onondaga,
one continued scene of interest, being lined with flour-
ishing towns and villages, whose enterprising inhabi-
tants were busily engaged in profiting by the impulse
given to trade by the Erie canal and the Utica and Sy-
racuse railroad j among which are Cl^crona, Oneida, on

11(

OKONDAGA SALT bmiNCS.

115

a lake of the same name, celebrated for its beauty, be-
ing 21 miles in length with pure transparent water. —
Also, the towns of Wampsvillc, Canastota, Conasara-
ga, Chittenango, Kirkville, Manlius, De Witt, all con-
taining from 3000 to 6000 inhabitants; Syracuse, with
6500 inhabitants; Salina, with 11,113 inhabitants, with
the towns of Liverpool and Geddcs, constitute the scat
of the famous Onondaga Salt works, which are the prop-
erty of the State. The manufacturers pay the State a
duty of six cents a buihel. These four towns produce
over 3,000,000 bushels of salt annually, of which Sy-
racuse makes between 7 and 800,000 bushels ; every
forty-five gallons of water yielding a bushel of salt. A
large quantity of the salt manufactured at these springs
is sent out of the State, and finds consumers in perhaps
every State in the Union, as the article of Liverpool
salt is popular with almost every person. The Erie
canal carries it east and west from the salt works, and
the Oswego canal carries it north ; the two canals form-
ing a junction at the Salt Springs ; between which and
Auburn are the towns of Brookway, Camilliusand Ska-
neateles, the latter on a lake of the same name, famous
for the beauties of its waters and the scenery of its bor-
ders.

Auburn, with 6171 inhabitants, is delightfully loca-
ted on Owasco Lake, 26 miles from the Salt Springs.
It is a very flourishing town, regularly laid out, con-
taining broad streets, finely ornamented with avenues
of shade trees. The Empire State has here one of her
Penitentiaries, which was erected at a cost of $500,000.
This structure occupies a large extent of ground, sur-

AUUUnN.

rounded by a stone wall 3000 feet in length, 30 feet In
height and four feet thick; on the top of which are c-
rected six or eight watch towers, so constructed that
by opening the doors facing the walls lengthwise, the
guard can pass and repass on the top of the wall around
the enclosure. A agnail lee will procure admittance,
and the scenes presented to view return a rich equiva-
lent for the pittance required. By ascending to the
top of the building by means of a spiral stair-case, a ve-
ry delightiul prospect is presented, which embraces a
view of the whole surrounding country, which presents
all that a rural population can make it ; while the fine
public buildings and dwellings, with their ornamental
trees, whose graceful boughs and verdant leaves pre-
sented a scene alike charming and enlivening. A walk
or two around the top of the wall in company with
the guard, is also interesting, who in their promenade
round the walls, take a delight to all appearance, in
entertaininoj and delightinoj the stranger, who in his
rounds has fine opportunities of seeing many of the
convicts at their labor ; it also affords him a view of
that part of the town immediately around the wall. — -
The prison-house is constructed of a species of rough
grey stone, well hewn, so that the walls of the build-
ing present a handsome appearance for a building of the
kind. The town also contains a Theological Semina-
ry, founded in 1821, which is said to be in a very flour-
ishing condition ; a large and splendid Court House,
with a strong and handsome Jail near by ; together with
other county buildings possessing considerable elegance,
adding in a great degree to the beauty of the town. It

LAKES CAYUGA & SENRCA.

117

U still more improved by a large and elegant Musfum,
filled with a choice collection of curiosities, several
handsome hanking houses and eight or ten churches.

To the west ot Auburn are Lakes Cayuga and Sene-
ca, situate '1 nearly due north and south, 36 miles in
length and from 3 to 4 miles in width, running parallel
with each other, having a belt of land between 4 or 5
miles wide, which constitutes the county of Seneca,
possessing soil of the most admirable quality, which is
tilled with a superior degree of skill and intelligence.
Lakes Cayuga and Seneca are admired by every trav-
eller for the beauty and grandeur they posscsi. A more
delightful trip no man can possibly take than a ride up
and down these handsome Lakes, on board one of the
elegant little steamers which sail regularly over their
beautiful waters, while the golden rays of the meredi-
an sun add sublimity to the bright transparent waters,
spread out in a smooth expanse, glittering on every
hand almost with the brilliancy of liquid gold ; while
beyond the glittering bosom can be seen a Ifcrndscape.^
possessing all the charms a rural scene can present. —
The waters of Lake Seheca are drawn out by Seneca
river, soon after which they fall perpendicularly a con-
siderable height, creating an immense water-power ;
where is situated a town of 4281 inhabitants, who have
largely employed the power thus s/ffdrded, 'in propel*-
ling various factories and machinery. The town is
well built and possesses many attractions, being situa-
ted in a delightful region of country, whose inhabitants
appear to be possessed of a due proportion of the great
prosperity of western New York.

118

GENESEE VALLEY.

' Ontario county, — The town of Geneva, with 4000
inhabitants, a place most admirably situated at the north-
ern extremity of Lake Seneca, is built on high and com-
manding ground, embracing a deli;;;;htiul view of the
Lake and surrounding country. This flourishing town
was incorporated in 1812, and is now one of the most
deli^-htful towns in the State. This countv, as well as
all others in western New York, is adorned with nu-
merous cities, towns and villages, among which are
Oak Corners, East Vienna, West Vienna, Clifton, Short-
ville, Chapansville, Victor and Canandaigue, which has
5652 inhabitants, and is a place of some note 3 being
situated with great taste at the northern extremity and
outlet of Lake Canandaigue, another delightful lake of
fresh water, 15 miles in length and several miles wide,
also distinguished fof its beauty. There is perhaps no
region of the same area in the world, that can boast a
greater number of beautiful inland lakes of fresh water
than can western New York.

Monroe county. — This county contains a portion of
the farfamed valley of the Genesee, so much celebrated
for its superior quality of wheat, and for its skillful and
excellent mode of agriculture. This great valley may
be called a great, luxuriant meadow, chequered by
patches of wheat, corn and other grains, presenting no
hills, rocks, bluffs nor ravines ; but an expanse of the
most luxuriant verdure that a great valley can present,
populated by inhabitants from whom the traveller may
learn manv valuable lessons in the science of a^ricul-
ture; a valley, rendered by the busy intelligence of its
population in the agricultural art, so perfect, that the

professic
lawyer,

Roch(
ly situat
tion wit
was occ
ty is di^
crossed
nal pass
river b}'
structed
duct IS 1
haps is
in the I
place, a
falls in
and ere
is empl
the woi

Ther
ishing (
themse]
est to a
number
led by
laro-e ai
church
ing Co]
public 1
merce.
Falls fo

nociicsTZR.

119

])rofeBsion of Iho farmer is envied by the travelling
lawyer, physician and merchant.

Rochester, with a population of 25,265, is handsome-
ly situated on the Genesee river, 7 miles fr>m its junc-
tion with Lake Ontario. In the year 1812, the site
was occupied by two wooden buildings only. The ci-
ty is divided by the river into two parts. The river is
crossed by three very beautiful bridges. The Erie ca-
nal passes through the city, and crosses the Genesee
river by means ol an aqueduct 804" feet in length, con-
structed at an expense of $80,000, which splendid aque-
duct is built on ten arches of hewn stone, which per-
haps is not excelled in beauty and strength for its kind
in the United States. The Genesee Falls are at this
place, and have a fall of 215 feet, which distance it
falls in three successive leaps, of 90, 20 and 105 feeiy
and create an immense water power, a part of which
is employed in running 22 of the largest flour mills in
the world, at least so claimed by the city.

There are also at this city, several large and flour-
ishing cotton and woollen manufactories, which are
themselves a sufficient curiosity for several hours inter-
est to a stranger, in addition to which there are a great
number of other manufacturing establishments propel-
led by this great water power. The city contains 6
large and splendid banking houses, 23 large and superb
churches, a very celebrated museum, a very flourish-
ing Collegiate institution, together with several other
public buildings. The city is well situated for com-
merce, the Genesee river being navigable up to the
Falls for vessels, together with the famous Erie canal,

126

L E 11 O Y F A L L fj *

which passes through the heart of the city, wliich id
crossed by a great number of the most beautiful arched
bridges. The city presents attractions, which many
others of equal size do not possess, as there is no other
of equal size which can boast of a more fertile, highly
and skillully cultivated region, inhabited by a rural
population, alike celebrated for their intelligence, hos-
pitality and enterprise.

Genesee county. — The lands of this celebrated coun-
ty, with the famous proprietors, deserve all the praise
that can be lavished upon them ; for here the stranger
finds all order, neatness, fertility, prosperity, intelli-
gence, hospitality, enterprise and industry ; the lands
and inhabitants to all appearance, are destitute of no-
thing that is calculated to adorn and beautify either the
one or the other*

LeRoy, with a population of 4323, is a verv beauti-
ful town, situated on the western branch of the Gene-
see river, at which place is situated the LeRoy Falls, a
scene possessing many beauties, which Avilltichl}'- re-
pay the trouble and small expense incurred by the trav-
>3ller, in leaving the railroad a few miles for the pur-
pose of paying it a visit. It is a very beautiful little
cascade of considerable height, which is seen to have
been cutting its way backwards through the rocks, as
is usually the case with waterfalls. This cascade has
hollowed out a deep ravine, with perpendicular sides
of very considerable height.

'In addition to LeRoy, are the towns of Batavia, Al-
exandria and Attica, having- each 3500 inhabitants, be-
ing promising, handsome towns, containing many fine

dwellin]
adorned
gives th
around
tion of t
the regi
been fai
ty. Th
ges, wh;
which r
ern Ne\
a state c
villages
situated,
the subu
another,
by the ]
cm Nev

Buffalo-
Lake £
■titutio
linghoi
Yards-
— Linn
prepari
Kinds (
on the

Erie (
iaget of

B UfPaL 0.

dwellings, with 5 or 6 very elegant churches in each,
adorned with the choicest species of shade trees, which
gives the towns an attractive and delightful appearance,
around which the country is possessed of a large por-
tion of the same system of order and neatness for which
the region is so much celebrated, which has already
been faintly sketched. The soil is of admirable quali-
ty. The country also contains many flourishing villa-
ges, which have just sprung up as by enchantment ;
which may be said of all the cities and towns in west-
ern New York, with all other improvements in so high
a state of perfection. The principal cities, towns and
villages only have been noticed, they being so closely
situated, that in places the traveller scarcely leaves
the suburbs of one town before he comes in sight of
another, which have arisen by the great impulse given
by the Erie canal and railroad, and has thus made west-
ern New York literally a theatre ot towns.

-•-^^«-

CHAPTER XI.

Buffalo — Lo2ation — Destruction by the Britieii— Erie Canal —
Lake Erie — Commerce — Breakwater — Ciiurches— Literary in-
■titutiona — Orphan Asylum — High State ofAgriculture-Dwel-
linghouses — Dairy houses — Barns — Tanks— M uck Heap-Barn
Yards — Manures — Reflections — Ashes — Mode of using Ashes
—Lime — Agency of Lime — Modes of using Lime — Mode of
preparing land for Wheat — Advantages of subsoil plowing —
Kinds of Wheat — S.iring crop — Rotation in cro^js — Remarks
on the state of Agric'ilture.

Erie county, — Near the city of Buffalo are the vil-
lage! ot Lancaster and Cheektawaga, noted for thelv

\T2

B I- f r A 4 tf .

prosperity, which two villages partake largely a( ih^
life and bustle of that celebrated city. The surround-
ing region is animated by a population, who are each
cheerfully doing their part towards sustaining and car-
rying forward the great agricultural improvements ©f
their region, in which they pride as the most healthlul,
the most useful and the most noble omployment of man.

Buffalo, has a population ol 29,773. This great city
is advantageously and beautifully situated on a com-
manding eminence, overlooking Lake Erie, on whose
•astern extremity it is situated. The city is regularly
laid out and well built, and contains a great number of
very large warehouses and manufactories. This great
city, with many others in western New York, has
sprung up with surprising impetuosity, in the very bo-
som of the wilderness. It was not till so late as the
year 1801, at which date it was first laid out, and the
whole destroyed by the British during the late war
with England, for which unfortunate disaster, the suf-
ferers received from the General Government, the sum
of $80,000. The present city therefore, has sprung
up since that event, viz : the year 1815.

The great prosperity of the city is chiefly caused by
the Erid canal, which connects it with the city of Al-
bany. In addition to the canal, the trade on Lake E-
rie is very extensive. The city as before said, is very
advantageously situated and regularly laid out ; and so
far as I am capable of judging, it is destined in a few
years to rival our third class cities ; as it has already a-
bout 60 steamboats employed in running to and from
its port to different ports on the Lakes. In addition to

AftfllctrL-fuRtf.

itn

which there are 3t)0 sloops, schooners and brigs on the
Lake, most of which exccml 200 tons burden, tho lar-
ger portion of which frequent the port of iJiiirilo,
M'here scores of them can be seen ut a time.

At the mouth of Baflalo ('reek, tMtTc is a Br- rk wa-
ter erected for the purpose of ) roteclini; vessels from
the hi;^h waves ol the Liki', during; the time they re-
main in the harbour. This «^reat improvement consists
of a stone pier, 1500 feet in len^^tb, on which i^ situ-
ated a licrhthouse. The city contains 20 large ana
splendid churches and Exchange, a costly and superb
structure, a massive building occu])ied as a Theatre,
several thriving literary institutions, and a well con-
ducted Orphao Asylum.

By the time I arrived at this place from the city of
Albany, by travelling up the Mohawk valley & through
western New York, I had an opportunity of viewing
many splendid farms, skilfully and highly cultivated,
and of examining^ some farm buildings with their vari-
ous appendages, which I generally found to be sub-
stantial, well planned and answering a good purpose,
I found the hospitable and intelligent proprietors haci
no disposition to conceal an}'" part of their excellent
mode of agriculture; but to all appearance were ever
as ready and willing to give information as the stran--
ger could possibly be to ask it, in all matters concern-*
ing their prospering system of agriculture. The foK
lowing are a portion of the facts learned from this ag-*
ricultural and enterprising people.

Having ever considered it to be entirely consistent
with the character of a farmer, to be a man of taste, ai

•m

FARM HOUSES.

1 never could see any reason why ornamental farming
should not be cultivated, as it is not inconsistent with
the highest regard to profit to embellish our grounds
and habitations, and to render our homes as beautiful
as a simple and most refined taste can make them« —
And on my route through this fertile and agricultural
region, I found that I was not alone ; but while I was
only thinking on the matter, they were executing even
many plans which never had originated with me* —
Here I found every attention paid to this matter 3 eve-
rything being neatness, order, taste and comfort. Here
the stranger observes among other things, that the great-
est attention is paid to adorning and beautifying, by ev-
ery man his own domicil.

Dwelling Houses, — These are constructed oi the best
materials, and attention paid to location ; a naked scorch-
ing exposure equally with a dreary one are avoided* —
Jt generally occupies a position easily accessible to the
other buildings and fields, and yet within convenient
distance of the highway. Many of the buildings are
protected by a light scene of trees, which in trhe sum-
mer season afford an excellent shade, and add consider-
able as an ornament to the building, which is every
way tastefully built and always has an excellent cellar.

The Dairy, — There are very few of these to be found
above the ground, as they are generally situated in a
hillside, entirely under ground. They are strongly
and neatly walled with stone or brick, which wall is
sufficiently tight to exclude the frort When there ii
no hillside in which they can be placed, they are con-
atructed on level ground, by sinking them 3 or 4 feet

BARNS.

125

la tho ground, the walls raised high enough above to
give all the room wanted, the excavated earth is bank-
ed around the house, rendering it more elevated and
pleasant, which embankment is well sodded \ the whole
80 constructed as to admit light and air through it by
means of small windows, which have a curtain of wire
gauze to exclude the flies.

The Barn is considered the most important appen-
dage of the iarm ; and its size and form depends very
much on the particular wants ol the owner. They are
however large enough to hold all the lodder and ani-
mals on the farm. Not a hoof about the premises is
allowed to stand out and brave the northern winters ;
but they are all sheltered by a tight roof and dry bed,
as they will thrive much faster and consume so much
less food when thus protected, that the owner will be
ten-fold remunerated. Many of the stable floors are
80 constructed as to convey the urine of the beasts into
a muck heap, situated in the barnyard or near the sta-
bles or sheds, where the b .^asts are stalled ; or it is led
off by troughs in a tank, which is constructed for hold-
ing liquid manure, which are convenient to the stable*
and yards. These generally receive every particle of
the urine and drainage from the manure. These tanks
are variously constructed ; in compact clay they may
be made by simply excavating the earth, and the sides
can be kept from falling in by a rough wall, or planks
supported in an upright position, by a frame work of
joice. These tanks or cisterns in all cases are closely
coverttd, to prevent the escape of the ammonia which
is developed while fermenting. In sand or gravelly

{!'

V2G

TANK* MUCK HBATS.

ioils they are constructed of stone, brick or wood, — in
the first materials a cement -s necessary.

When these are partial. y filled with liquid manure,
fermentalion will soon commence in the tank, especial-
ly in warm weatlier; in this case they throw in gyp-
sutn or charcoal to absorb the ammonia. This howev-
er, h not always done. A lew days after decomposi-
tion takes place, it is pumped or drawn out and carried
on the land. If they intend it for watering trees or
plants, they dilute it water, so as to make it sufficient-
ly weak to prevent injury to them. When applied to
land, the quantity will depend on the strength of the
liquid. Many of the stables and troughs which lead to
the tanks, are frequently sprinkled with gypsum, which
absc '- )s much of the ammonia which would otherwise
escape. Some loss of the volatile matter must be ex-
pected, and the sooner it is used after prsper fermen-
tation or ripenehs, as if is termed, the better will be the
economy. The muck heap before named, consists of
earthy and vegetable substances, such as rich turf, the
wash of the roadside, tan-bark, saw-dust, weeds and
grass or refuse vegetables of any kind that may be had,
which is or should be frequently sprinkled with gyp-
sum or charcoal. This heap is protected by a rough
open shed or roof, to prevent drenching from rains. —
This heap is so placed, that the urine and liquid ma-
nure can run on to it, or is deposited where it can be
poured over it. When fully saturated with the urina-
ry salts, and all is properly decomposed, it may be
carried out for use, or covered with earth till wanted.

The Barn Yards are generally formed so as to be

Wishing
draw to
heap or
sandy o
evered
the liqi
possible
80 that
be don(
from th
convey
use of
loss of
and art
they us
lime, rr
plaistei
of lime
glaubei
clay, c
amnion
Itbt
to the
may b(
in the
made \
be, tha
16diff

OUS COl

vious,
vegeta

UAEN YARD* — MANURBt.

127

-la

dishing towards the centre, so that the liquid will all
draw to that place, from which it is led off on the muck
heap or into the tank or cistern. If the barn yard be
sandy or gravelly, it is puddled as they call it, or cov-
everod with clay, to prevent the leaking and escape of
the liquid manure. The yard is well enclosed, and if
possible water is conveyed into the yard for the stock,
80 that they may not be removed. When this cannot
be done, large cisterns are made, and the rain-water
from the eaves of the buildings, by means of troughs if
conveyed into them, from which it is pumped for the
use of the beasts. Every means is used to prevent the
loss of manure. In addition to their excellent mode
and arrangements for saving and accumulating manure,
they use and recommend the use of ashes of any kind,
lime, marls, shell sand, green sand marls, gypsum or
plaister of Paris, bones, (ground or crushed) phosphate
of lime, (sometimes known as apatite phosphorite,) salt,
glauber salts, saltpetre, old plaster, broken brick, burnt
clay, charcoal, broken glass, spent lye of the asheries,
ammonical liquor, guano, soot, fish, seaweed, peat, &c.
It becomes then a matter of the highest consequence
to the farmer to understand, not only what substances
may be useful as manures, but also how to apply them
in the best manner to his crops, so far as they can be
made profitable ; as it is well known, or at least should
be, that all fertile soils must have not less than 15 or
16 different simple or elementary snbstances, in vari-
ous combinations with each other. It is therefore ob-
vious, that such principles as all fertile soils furnish to
vegetables, must be contained in the manure. Henc#

128

MANURE — Annies.

it should be tho object of every farmer, to understand
the substances which go to form the plants he is about
to cultivate, in order that he may know how to supply
such substances to the soil, as are found to be the inor-
ganic constituents of the plant he proposes to grow.

It strikes me that there is nothing that our farmers
understand so little, as the economy ol manures. It ii
generally supposed that the more a field of corn is ma-
nured the greater will be the crop, as Indian corn is
one of the grossest feeders in vegetable life, it produces
in proportion to the aliment it receives; but these en-
terprising people, aided by their agricultural chemis*
try, tell us that a large portion of the aliment comes
from the atmosphere, therefore a moderate quantity of
the most stimulating manure properly applied, with a
frequent stirring of the soil, will be found to produce a
b«tter growth than a larger quantity of the most active
mantire with less work. It is generally supposed that
when the weeds are subdued, ihe hoe or cultivator has
no office to perform ; but nature reverses this decision,
as actual experiment invariably proves, the frequent
stirring of the earth lets in the oxygen of the atmos-
phere, which is converted by the humus in the soil in-
to carbonate acid, to be absorbed by the plants ; which
is a doctrine very well founded.

Ashes is pronounced by this agricultural people, the
best of the saline manures. They are also among the
most economical, as from our free use of fuel, they are
largely produced by almost every household. Good
husbandry dictates that not a pound of ashes should be
wasted ; but all should be saved and applied to the lancjj

and who

they ad\

ashes th

the unle

their po

soil wit

ows or

improv(

ciples t

The(

acre, m

All roo

lucern,

crs of t

by ash(

the cro

and for

ced wh

a small

from 1

double

tity m

energy

andg]

etable

tillage

ow la

forth

ly 00^

cmpl(

large

A ft 71 R S .

12(1

and

)OUt

ply

»nd wIkmi they can be procured at a r usoiiabl' prico,
they advise that it be purch!}sr^d formai uro. L^^at hod
ashes though h:ss valuable, co:tain all the eleinonts ■..
the unleached, having been deprived oidy of part f
their potash and soda. They may be drilled into tl)e
soil with roots and grain, and sown broadcast on mead-
ows or pastures, or mixtxi with the muck heap. They
improve all soils not already saturated with the prin-
ciples they contain.

The quantity of ashes that should be applied to the
acre, must depend on the soil and crops cultivated. —
All roots such as potatoes, turnips, Sec, and also clover,
lucern, peas, beans, and the grasses, are great exhaust-
ers of the salts, and are consequently much benefitted
by ashes. They are used with decided advantage for
the crops just named, in connection with bone-dust,
and for clover and roots, their effects are much enhan-
ced when mixed with gypsum. Light soils should have
a smaller and clay soils a heavier dressing ; the former
from 12 to 15 bushels per acre, and the latter near
double that quantity ; or if they are leached, the quan-
tity may be increased one-half, as they act with less
energy. Repeated dressings of ashes, like those of lime
and gypsum, without a corresponding addition of veg-
etable or barn yard manure, will eventually exhaust
tillage lands. Ashes may however be applied to mead-
ow lands for a longer time than to any other crops, and
for this obvious reason : the surface of the soil is close-
ly covered with vegetable agents, which are actively
employed ia drawing carbon irom the air and soil, a

large portion of which are stored up in the stubble an4
*6

1.,

130

r. iM K .

roots, which thus makes it less important that the or-
ganic matters should be given back to the soil in the
ehapo of vegetable or animal manures.

Lime, next to ashes, is here contended either as a
carbonate or sulphate, has been instrumental in the inr.-
provement of the soils beyond any other saline ma-
nures. Like ashes too, its application is beneficial to
every soil not already sufficiently charged with it. It
is truly very highly prized by this agricultural people
as a manure, as making heavy land lighter and light
land heavier, and gives adhesiveness to creeping sands,
or leachy gravel, and comparative openness and poros-
ity to tenacious clays ; and it has a permanently bene-
ficial effect where generally used in disinfecting the
atmosphere of any noxious vapors in it. It not only
condenses and retains the organic matters brought in
contact with it by the air and rains, but it has the far-
ther effect of converting the insoluble matters in the
soil into available food for plants. It is considered the
key to the strong box of the farmer, securely locking
up his treasure till demanded for his own use, and yield-
ing it profusely at his demands whenever required. —
In its influence in drying the land and accelerating
the growth of plants, the use of lime is equivalent to
an increase of temperature j and the northern farmer
declares that he sometimes experiences in effect, the
same benefit from it as if his land were removed a de-
gree or two to the south. The influence of lime in re-
cruiting soils after they have been exhausted, has been
frequent and striking ; and it may be stated as an in-
controvertible truths that wherever procurable at low

pricei,

agents

The

cused a

fathers

■0 ar i

over it<

produ(

Lime g

if heu

charge

agent.

grediei

enable

crops I

taken

manur

lime c

plant ;

fertilii

ry abi

are pi

ty.

shouli
ces fr
Iti
ry re
some
ed b]
dresi

AOBNCY OF LIMB.

131

or-

the

pricei, Hme ii oqo of tbe most economical and efficient
agenti in eecuring fertility, within the farmer's reach.

The northern farmer declares that lime ii falsely ac-
cused as beinsc an exhauster of soils, that it enrichosthe
fathers and impoverishes the sons. This is inic only
■o ar as it gives the occupant of the land the control
over it« latent fertility; but if he squanders the rich
products when within his reach, it will be his own fault.
Lime gives him the power of exhausting his principal ;
if he uses aught beyond the interest, his prodigality ia
chargeable to his own folly, not to the liberality of his
agent.

By the addition of lime to the soil, the insoluble in-
gredients contained in it are set free, and they are thus
enabled to aid in the formation of plants, and larger
crops and of better quality are the results. If these bt
taken from the soil without a corresponding return of
manure, exhaustion must follow. And it is known that
lime constitutes in all cases, only a part of the entire
plant ; all the other ingredients must be added, or the
fertility of the soil cannot be sustained. But in the va-
ry abundance of the crops which lime affords, means
are provided for the maintenance of the highest fertili-
ty. If they are consumed on the farm, their manure
should be returned to the j&elds to replace the substan-
ces from which they are formed.

It is recommended, and the recommendation is a ve-
ry reasonable one, that the best method is to add, in
some form, the full amount of all the materials abstract-
ed by the annual crop. When this is done, the large
dressing of lime will retain the accumulating fertility

ili

132

VAlltOUS MODES OF APPLYING LlAfK.

far beyond what the soil would be capable of, were it
not for its agency, and it is in this way that the great
profit o( farniing consists.

As it is known to every farmer that large crops on-
ly are profitable ; the market value of many indifferent
ones will hardiy meet the expeniie of cultivation, and
it is only the excess beyond this which is profit. It is
evident that if 15 bushels of wheat per acre be an av-
erage crop, and it requires 12 bushels to pay all ex-
penses of production, 3 bushels is the amount of profit.
But if by the use of lime and ordinary manures, the
product can be raised to 30 bushels per acre, the profit
would be near the value of 12 or 15 bushels per acre,
after paying for the manures. Thus the advantage from
good management may be five times that of neglect.

The mode of applying lime is various. It may be
carried on to the ground immediately after burning,
and placed in small heaps; there it may be left to slack
by rains and the air ; or it is better to reduce it at once
with water if accessible, and then spread it preparato-
ry to plowing. A good practice is to place it in large
piles and cover it thic];^ly with earth, which gradually
reduces it to powder. It may thon be carried where
it is wanted and spread from the cart or wagon. It is
said to be still better if small quantities only are want-
ed, to have it thoroughly slacked and add it with ma-
nure, avoiding fermentation as far as practicable after
it has been added, if added to the heap, as its avidity
for carbon expels the ammonia, which would lessen its
value. Fresh burnt lime it is said does not act on the
crops during the ftrst year, and may be prepared for ac-

U0DE3 or APPLYLXG Ll.ME.

133

: IS

lion as well by mixing it with 3 or 4< times its bulk of
earth, as by spreadin,^ it directly upon the o;round.

The amount of linio to be used is said to depend en-
tirely on the soil. Some lands which are strong: and
fertile, contain over 30 per cent in their natural state,
so that it is necessary to be a little cautious, lest such
lands be overcharfred. The averag-e for the first dres-
sing is from 50 to 75 bushels per acre, which may be
renewed every 4 years, at the rate of 20 tc 40 bushels
per acre. If an overdose has been applied, time or the
addition of green manures, such as clover or other gras-
ses, are the only correctives.

To give lime its fullest effect, it is said it should be
kept as near the surface as possible, and for this rea-
son it is well to spread it after plowing, and covering
it well with the harrow, v^^hich will be sufficient ; and
allow the ground then to remain in grass as long as
possible. The weight ot the lime and its minuteness
gives it a tendency to sink, and after a few years cul-
tivation a large portion of it will be found to have got-
ten beyond the depth of its most efficient action. It
should be spread upon the ground immediately after ta-
king off the last crop, so as to allow all the time possi-
ble for its action before the next planting.

In addition to its other good effects, lime like ashes,
is useful to meadows in destroying the mosses and de-
composing the accumulated vegetable decay on the
surface. For this purpose it may be spread on them
unmixed, after having passed into the state of carbon-
ate or efTete lime, to prevent injury to the grass. If
no such necessity requires its use in this form, it may

134

PREPARIMO WHEAT LANDS.

be combined advantageously with the muck, and ictt-
tered broadcast over the meadow.

In preparing land for wheat and other grain, the
ground is plowed about 12 inches deep, each furrow
being 16 inches wide ; and such as are appropriated to
gardens and horticultural purposes is deepened to 18
inches, in each case to the manifest profit of the pro-
prietors. But whatever may be the depth of the soil,
the plow is required to turn up the entire mass, if with-
in its reach, and what is beyond is thoroughly broken
up by the subsoil plow, and some of it occasionally in-
corporated with that of the surface. The subsoil is nev-
er brought out of its bed, except in small quantities to
be exposed to the atmosphere. If much of it was brought
to the surface it would have to receive an application
of such fertilizers as are necessary to put it at once in-
to a productive system.

Subsoil plowing is a practice of great popularity with
these agricultural people, who contend that it is attend-
ed with signal benefit from the increase and certainty
of the crop. It is performed by subsoil plows, made
exclusively for the purpose. The objects to be accom-
plished are to loosen the hard earth below the reach of
the ordinary plow, and permit the ready escape of the
water which tails upon the surface, the circulation of
air, and a more extended range for the roots of the
plants or grain, by which they procure additional nour-
ishment, and secure a crop against drought by penetra-
ting into the regions of perpetual moisture. When all
tlie circumstances are favorable to the use of the sub-
soil plow, an increase of 20, 30, and even 50 per cent

has bee]
ly conv
admiral
would
cept su(

The
quantity
tain nat
has beei
ing, the
the gro
good pr
seed an(
is rollec
which
followii

Thei
the 1st
from 5
The see
thoroug
washed
of salt {
and for
ing is r
out and
verized
weeds 1
When 1
by sodHi
wards y

PREt^ARINO WHEAT LANDS.

IS)

has been attributed to its operations. I waa thorough-
ly convinced, not by argument alone, but seeing the
admirable operation of the plow, that subsoil plowing
would be attended with great profit in all lands, ex-
cept such subsoils as are naturally too loose and leachy.

The wheat land being thus prepared, a sufficient
quantity of lime is added, except it is known to con-
tain naturally a sufficient quantity. When the ground
has been thoroughly mellowed by rolling and harrow-
ing, the seed is sown and thoroughly harrowed in, and
the ground afterwards rolled, which is considered a
good practice, as it presses the earth closely upon the
seed and facilitates germination. As soon as the ground
is rolled, the water furrows if any, are cleaned out,
which is again done late in autumn and early in the
following spring.

The time for sowing is from the 10th September to
the 1st of October. The quantity sown per acre, is
from 5 to 6 pecks, the latte^ quantity most frequently.
The seed is prepared with the utmost care, after it is
thoroughly cleaned. The seed, previous to sowing, is
washed for about five minutes in a strong brine, made
of salt and sofl water, taking care to skim off all light
and foreign seeds. If the grain is smutty, this wash-
ing is repeated in another clean brine, when it is taken
out and mixed with one-twelflh its bulk of fresh pul-
verized quick lime. This kills the smut, cleans out
weeds from the grain, and insures early & rapid growth.
When the seed is not smutty, it is frequently prepared
by soaking or sprinkling it with stale urine, and afler*
wards well mixed with the lime.

u«

i/.

136

VARIOUS KINDS OF WHEAT.

Numerous are the kinds of wheat cultivated in thig
famous wheat region. The following are the principal
kinds, each of which stand high in public favor : The
Improved Flint, the Old Genesee Red Chaff, White
May of Virginia, Wheatland Red, Kentucky White
bearded, Canadian 6int, English velvet beard or Crate,
English flint c r Soules wheat, White Provence, Blue
Stem, Mediterranean, Egyptian, Smyrna, Reed, Many
spiked or Wild Goose, Spring, Black Sea, Siberian, &c.

The clay lands for a spring crop are generally plow-
ed in the fall, so that the tenacity of the soil may thus
be temporarily broken up by the winter frosts, its par-
ticles separated, and the whole mass reduced to a finer
tilth than could possibly be effected in any other man-
ner. It is also contended that there is still further and
important advantages from this practice, which ensues
from the attraction existing between the clay and those
gasses that are furnished from the atmosphere, snow,
rains and dews. In consequence of being thus thrown
up and coming in contact with them, it seizes upon the
ammonia, carbonic and nitric acids which are in the
air, and holds them for the future use of the crop.

These grounds are generally manured, and those put
in corn, in planting receives about half a gill of ashes
and gypsum mixed at the rate of two of the former to
one of the latter, put in the hill, and an equal quantity
of pure gypsum after the corn is first hoed j the ground
is afterwards well stirred by harrowing, cultivating
and plowing. The lands for oats and barley receive a
dressing of lime and ashes. If lime alone, it is added
at the rate of 20 to 30 bushels per acre, sown broad-

ROTATION IN CROPS.

137

cast after the oats or barley and harrowed in ; each of
which are afterwards sown down in wheat in the man-
ner already given, except that the oats and barley
grounds do not receive a dressing of lime.

The rotation of crops is a very popular practice with
the people of this renowned agricultural region. The
following are a small portion of the reasons given why
a rotation in cropping should be practised : IVIany choice
secondary bottom lands and others munificiently sup-
plied by nature, with all the materials of fertility, have
by along succession of crops, been reduced to a condi-
tion of comparative sterility. Yet it will have been
found in the progress of this exhaustion, that after the
loil ceased to give an adequate return of one crop, as
of wheat, corn or tobacco, it would still yield largely
of some other genus, which was adapted to it. These
lands when thus reduced and turned out to the com-
mons for a few years, will again give crops much lar-
ger than those which closed their former bearing ca-
reer ; proving that nature has been silently at work in
renovating the land for further use. The whole course
of her operations is not known j but this much is satis-
factorily ascertained, that she is incessantly engaged in
producing those changes in the soil which enable it to
contribute to vegetable sustenance. Enough of lime,
or potash, or silica may have been disengaged to yield
all that may be required for one crop, which by that
crop is principally taken up, and if another of the same
kind follows in quick succession, there will be a defi-
ciency, yet if a different crop succeed, there may be
fQund enough of all the materials it needs fully to ma-

13S

ADVANTAOKS OJ* ROTATION.

ture it. A third now takes place, demanding materi-
als for nutrition, in forms and proportions unlike either
which has preceded it, and by the time a recurrence
to the first is necessary, the sol: may be in a condition
again to yield a remuneratinjy reiurn. These remarks
apply equally to such soils as have, and such as have
not received manures.

Another benefit of rotation is by bnnging the land
into hoed crops at proper intervals, it clears it of trou-
blesome weeds which may infest it. A still further
advantage may be found in cutting off the appropriate
food lor insects and worms, which in the course of time
by having a full supply of their necessary aliment, and
especially if undisturbed in their quiet haunts, will
oftimes become so numerous as seriously to interfere
with the labors of the fu/mer. A change of crops and
exposure of the insects to frost, and by the change of
cultivation which a rotation insures, will make serious
inroads upon their numbers, if it does not effectually
destroy them.

From all that has hitherto been learned on the sub-
ject of rotation, f'ither from science or practice, two
general principles may be assumed, as proper to guide
every farmer in his course of cropping:, — 1st, to culti-
vate as great a variety of plants as his soil, circum-
stances and market will justify; and 2nd, to have the
same or similar species follow each other at intervals
as remote as may be consistent with his interest. From
the foregoing observations on the subject, it is evident
that the proper system of rotation for any farmer to a-
dopt, must depend on all the conditions by which h«

ig surro
these ci
In tr
could n
minion

agricui

monish

lation t

nuraerc

as expe

as well

will sp

we tak

turn iV

lion, bj

most r(

easily

make 1

the pu

tice as

amuni

Woul(

her sli

would

ward.

But

presei

plant

•68 to

tence

i;'

REMARKS ON AGRICLLTURK,

139

18 surrounded, and that it should vary according to
these circumstances.

In travellinor over this jrreat aprncultural roEjion, I
could not but feel a regret that the rer owned Old Do-
minion should be found so far in the, rear in the great
agricultural art, and especially after having been ad-
monished bv the intf»Ili']!;ent farmers of the north, in re-
lation to their excellent mode of agriculture, by their
numerous newspapers, cultivators, books, &,c., as well
as experience, which has shown that w'hcat should not
follow wheat, or tobacco a crop of tobacco, for these,
as well as many other crops following in succession,
will speedily exhaust the constituents of the soil. If
we take these constituents from the soil we should re-
turn them before we again tax it to ruinous produc-
tion, by artificial manuring with such manures as would
most readily and cheaply efF'ct the object, an object
easily effected by a little care and a small expense, to
make the necessary appendages to barns and stables for
the purpose. Why the farmers of Virginia do not prac-
tice as a general thing, a better mode of agriculture I
am unable to say, unless we attribute it to -egligence.
Would that the famous Old Dominion w^ould wake from
her slumber on the subject, and no sooner than she
would, we would hear no longer the great cry of west-
ward, westward.

But unfortunately for this renowned old State, at
present there are many fields to be found whereon the
plant does not grow luxuriantly, and sometimes refu-
tes to vegetate, or if it starts upon its vegetable exis-
tence, it does 80 apparently with the greatest reluct-

FASTUAS LANBi.

ance and suffering, and ekes out a punj, thrlltle^
reer, unattended with a single advantage to its owner.
This is simply the^result of the exhaustion of one or
more of the indispensable elements of the plant.

While on the other hand a great country like Vir-
ginia, possessing a climate suited to nearly all the cul-
tivated crops, deserves to be fostered and improved. —
The present age must make the beginning, else we will
entail the horrid curse of national poverty upon those
who follow us. With the proper energies and the ap-
plication of the proper principles to her agriculture,
we could nake her the garden spot of the world.

CHAPTER XII.

Theory of paiture lands — Pasturing Meadows — Clover — Timo-
thy — Feeding Stock — Steaming Apparatus — Plows-Drill bar-
row — Rollers — Under-draining — Advantages of under-drain*
ing lands — Canadian Thistle — Birds — Cutting Timber — Plant-
ing Fruit Trees — Mode of Culture — Pruning — Kinds of Fruit.

The general theory adopted by farmers in regard to
pasture lands is, that they are manured sufficiently by
the animals feeding on them. These celebrated farm-
ers tell us this opinion is only partially correct. Pas-
tures wear out less than other lands, but it is contend-
ed when milch cows and working animals are fed up-
on them, they carry off much of the produce of the
soil which is never returned to it. Even the wool and
carcass of the sheep, with the ordinary escape of the
Milte by tho washing of the rains, will aAer a long time

TAStURINO MEADOWS.

141

impoverish the land. HoW much more rapidly when
much of the manure, all the milk, which is rich in all
the elements of plants is daily carried from the soil. —
There is much phosphate of lime in milk, it is there-
fore recommended that crushed bones, ashes, salt and
gypsum be used for manuring dairy pastures, each of
which are considered of the highest value ior pas-
ture lands. From the peculiar action of these manures
instead of growing poorer, pastures may become rich-
er through every successive year. But instead ofthus
keeping up pasture lands for the want of proper reflec-
tion, it is generally said it will enrich itself by the
droppings of the animals pastured on the land ; but thii
has not the desired effect, because they yield the soil
nothing which they did not drain from it. The grasi
and weeds upon which they live, spring from the soil,
and that which they return in voidings must according
to the laws sustaining animated nature, be less in quan-
tity than the amount originally derived by them* Th«
fields therefore under this system of grazing, can gain
nothing, on the contrary the land must have lost somt
of its contents.

There is here no objection to feeding off raeadowg
in early autumn, while the ground is dry and the sod
firm. The roots of the grass they say, are rather ben-
efitted than injured by the browsing. But they should
never be pasti^red in the spring. It is said by these
excellent farmers that it is economy to purchase hay at
any price rather than spring pasture meadows.

Their time for cutting clover is afler hav'.ng fully
blossomed and assumed a brownish hue. The swarth,

■KC-^

rEJtPINO STOClLi

unless very heavy, is never stirred open j but allowed
to wilt on the top ; it is then carefully turned over and
when thus partially cured, placed in high slender cocks,
where it remains till sufficiently dry. It is then remo*
ved to the barn, where it is sprinkled over with from
10 to 20 quarfs of salt per ton, which is a very good
practice, as it thus secures the hay against danr.age from
occasional ji;reenncss. There is no waste of the salt,
as it serves the double object after curing the hay, of
furnishing salt to the cattle and the manure heap.

The time for cutting timothy is when the seed is
formed, when the seed is between the milk and dough
state, and will nearly ripen after cutting j as it is here
declared that timothy affords nearly double the quanti-
ty of nutriment in the seed that it does in the flower,,
and is then much more relished by stock. Orchard
grass on the other hand, although it possesses two-sev-
enths more nutritive value for hay in the seed, yet as
it is more tender, and preferred oy stock when cut in
flower, and as it continues to grow rapidly afterwards,
should be alwavs cut at that time.

The mode of feeding stock, not only for market but
also the stock during winter, is by having the food
ground, crushed or steamed ; as it is contended, and
that vcx-y logically, that the crushing or grinding of the
grain insures more perfect mastication, and is perform-
ed by machinery at much less expense than by thi? an-
imals consuming it. The steaming is also the final
step towards its easy and profitable assimilation in the
animal economy. With a capacious steaming box for
the reception of the food, the roots and grain or meal.

•TEAMING ArPARATUi.

143

and eveh cut hay, straw and stalks, are here thrown in
together, and all are thus ofTectually prepared for nour-
ishment. There is still aiiolher advantage claimed, ag
resulting from this practice ; that is, there is less ani-
mal heat expended in warming the food than would be
otherwise required. ••'

The steaming apparatuses here used are variously
constructed. Many of the larger ones consist of a cir-
cular boiler 5i feet long by 20 inches in JIameter, made
of boiler iron, laid lengthwise on a brick rrch. The
fire is placed underneath and passes through the whole
length and over one end, then turns in contact with
the boiler, through side-flues or pockets, where it en-
ters the chimney. This gives an exposure to the name
and heated air of about 10 feet. The upper part is
coated with brick and mortar to retain the heat, and 3
small test cocks are applied at the bottom, middle and
upper edge of the exposed end, to show the quantity
of water in it ; and two large stop cocks on the upper
side for receiving the water and delivering the steam,
completes the boiler. The steaming box is an oblong,
7 or 8 feet in length, by about 4 feet in depth and width,
capable of holding 60 or 70 bushels, made of plank,
grooved together and clamped and keyed with 4 setts
of oak joist. •

The smaller apparatuses used for the same purpose,
consist of a large circular tub, strongly bound by wag-
on tire, and holding about 25 bushels. The covering
of both apparatuses is fastened securely j but a safety
valve is allowed for the escape of steam, which is sim-
ply a two inch auger hole. Into these the steam is

FARMING UTENSILS.

conveyed from the boiler, by a copper lube attached to
the steam delivery cock for a short distance, when it
is continued into the bottom of the box or tub by a lead
pipe, on account of its flexibility and to avoid injury
to the food from the corrosion of the copper. The end
of this lead pipe, which is in the steaming box or tub,
is guarded by a metal strainer to prevent its clogging
from the contents of the box.

With these apparatuses they find no difficulty in
cooking about 25 bushels of unground corn or other
grain in the smaller apparatus, in the course of three
or four hours, and in the larger one, 60 or 70 bushels
of grain or roots, hay, straw or corn stalks, in the coursa
of a few hours longer, with a small expense of fuel. —
For swine, fattening cattle, sheep, milch cows, and
working horses and oxen, these great farmers contend
without a doubt that a large amount of food is saved
by the use of such or similar cooking apparatuses. The
box it is said may be enlarged to triple the capacity
ol the fofegoing, without reducing the operation, and
even With a boiler of the same dimensions ; but it would
take a longer time to effect the object. If the boiler
were increased in proportion to the box, the cooking
process would be increased also, atid oi course accom-
plished in the same time.

The next thing I deemed worthy of notice. Was their
farming implements ; their plows lor almost every sit*
uation and soil ; among which are several varieties ex-
clusively for the subsoil, some are for heavy lands and
some for light, some for stony soils, others for such as
are full of roots, some are adapted to deep and some to

rARMl.NG I'TENSlLfc*

Bhallow plowing, some are for plow iiig around a hill
and throwing the furrows cither up or down or both
ways alternately, others again throw the soil on both
sides, and are used for plowing between the rows of
corn or roots. Every farmer is here supplied with such
plows as are entirely adapted to the diflbrent opera-
tions required.

It is not here as is loo much the case in Virginia,
where has been adopted a kind of penny wise and pound
foolish policy by many of the farmers in their negledt
or refusal to supply themselves with good tools to
work with* They thus save a few shillings in the first
outlay, 1,'it frequently lose ten times as much by the
use of indifferent ones, in the waste of labor and the
inefficiency of their operations. A farmer here esti-
mates the value of his own and his laborer's time, as
well as thai of his teams, by dollars and cents, and if
it requires one-tenth or even one-hundredth more of
either to accomplish a given object, with one instru-
ment than another, he before buying one of inferior
quality, carefully computes the amount his false econ-
omy in the purchase will cost him before he has done
with it. They contend that those per:,ons who wish
to thrive can ill afford the extravagance of buying in-
ferior tools, at however low a price. The best are al-
ways considered the cheapest ; not those of high and
extravagant finish, or in any respect unnecessarily cost-
ly ; but such as are p.ain and substantially made on the
best principles and o( the best and m.ost durable male-
rials. Among the mariV excellent p^.ows I saw, is the
Drill BaiTow, which is trulv a useful thing for dibblincr
7

.i.ii

p -

146

tyRthU BAKKOVV'S — ROiAXR:^'

m seeds ; and after the ground is meflowed by rolling
and harrowing, the drill barrow will open the furrows,
ior the reception of the seed, and drop and cover and
roll the earth firmly over it. The whole operation is
well performed, the horse walking about as fast as he
usually does in the shovel plow. The smaller ones are
trundled along like a wheel-barrow, by hand. They
are each suited to the smaller seeds, being also arrang-
ed for planting* corn, beans and peas successfully.

Rollers ior rolling land, are variously constructed.
The simplest form is a single wooden shaft, with gud-
geons at each end, which rest in a square frame, made
by fastening foui square pieces of timber, a tongue for
drawing it being placed in one of its sides. A box is
attached to this frame for the purpose of holding stones
and weeds picked up in the field, and for weighting
the roller according to the work required. When a
roller exceeds 8 or 10 ieet in length, it is divided in
the middle, and has an iron axle passing through each
part upon which it revolves, having the friction di-
minished by means of thick washers in the ends of the
rollers. Some rollers have stout angular teeth for to
tear up and loosen the old turf and moss of meadows.

The swampy or otherwise wet lands are reclaimed
by a system of under-draining, which consists in sink-
ing the drain about 4 feet deep, and using baked clay
or tile pikes, 2 inches in diameter and 18 inches long,
connected by allowing the descending end to enter the
next below it as a socket. The trifling opening at
each joint, with small holes perforating the top of the
Ules is found to bo su{hcien|t to admit all the water

which li
at whicl
from a r
ced whe
60 feet J
The exf
The a
importai
pxists in
sons are
and peri
full crop
matured
early cu
nishing ;
tivation
enablino

ducts, w
fore, an
growth,
face dra
of the la
serve as
The(
taxed th
ing its r
The pla
when tl
large th
which t
scon dis

rNr>Rn-DrAi.\L\<i — c'aXauiaN thistle.

which (alls into the drain, while the increased depth
at which the drainage takes place, draws the water
from a much greater distance. These drains are pla-
ced where the ground is low and and wet, about 50 or
60 feet apart, which drain the land very admirably. —
The expense is about twelve dollars per acre.

The advantages of under-draining are numerous and|
important ; they take away all the surplus water which
exists in heavy and tenacious soils which in wet sea-
sons are a serious impediment to the successful growth
and perfection of vegetation ; thus always insuring a
full crop when frequently not one-fourth of a crop is
matured on similar undrained soils. They allow of
early cultivation in spring and late in autumn, by fur-
nishing a dry warm soil, which would not admit of cul-
tivation except in the warm part of the season ; thus
enabling the farmer to grow a greater variety of pro-
ducts, where only a few were adapted to th« soil be-
fore, and to these it gave several weeks additional
growth. It also saves all the trouble and waste of sur-
face drains and open furrows, which require that much
of the land be left almost in an unproductive state to
serve as conductors of the surplus water.

The Canadian Thistle is the only weed which has
taxed the ingenuity of these vigilant farmers in effect-
ing its removal. This is however within their power.
The plant is allowed to grow till it comes into flower,
when they are cut down with a hoe, or if the patch is
large they are all turned down with the plow, after
which the hoe is used in cutting them off, when they
?con disappear.

! i

ii:

1 ' i'

BIRDS — CUTTIXG Ti:\inEli.

Birds are considered bv these intelli3;ent farmers as
'of great utility; This was something which a|)pearcd
strange to me, especially when it was declared that
birds are among the most useful of the farmer's aids iii
securing his crops from insect depredation ; and yei
manifest as this is to every observing man, they are lre=
<iuently pursued and hunted from the premises as if
they were his worst enemies. It is among these farm-
ers considered an absurd custom and folly in the ex-
treme, to have scare-crows in cotniields and orchards;
but on the other hand it is contended that martins, the
swallow and wren, which may almost be considered a-
mong the domestics of the farm, and the sparrow, rob-
in, blue-bird, tferush, oriole, and nearly all the gay
songsters of the field, accomplish more for the destruc-
tion of noxious flies, worms and insects, (the real ene-
mies of the farmer,) than all the nostrums ever invented.

The time these people choose for cutting timber for
fencing and building, is in autumn. It is here denied
that winter is the proper time for cutting timber, which
is in Virginia as well as many other States, generally
supposed to be the proper time ; as it is supposed the
sap is then principally in the roots of the trees. If
that was the case, they assert it would make the thing
worse, which however they deny to be the condition
of the tree 5 they hold that nearly the same quantity of
sap is in the tree at all seasons, only beino- less active
in winter, and like all other moisture, is congealed du-
ring the coldest weather, yet when not absolutely fro-
zen, circulation is never entirely stopped in the living
iree. Therefore, the time claimed by New York, is

PLANTING ITtUlT TUKHS.

1 19

from the first of July to the first of November for cut-
ting timber in its perfection. Certain it is, they hjivo cut
timber within this period, which has exhibited a dura-
bility two or three times as great as that cut in winter,
when placed in precisely the same circumstances.

The mode of planting; fruit trees is by digging the
holes from three to six feet in diameter, and Irom 12
to 18 inches deep, according to the kind of soil and
the size of the tree ; the more compact the soil, the
deeper and larger the hole. When ready to plant, e-
nough of the best or top soil is thrown into the bottom
of the hole, so that the tree may stand about one inch
lower than when removed from the nursery. The
tree is taken up so as to injure the roots as little as pos-
sible ; if any are broken they are cut off either square
or obliquely, with a fine saw or sharp knife ; as it is
contended, it left in their bruised or broken condition,
they will canker and decay in the ground ; but if thus
cut off numerous rootlets will spring out at the termi-
nation of the amputated root, which strike into tl.e
soft earth and give increased support to the tree.

If the soul is n6t as rich as it is thought it should be,
the roots are covered only with that soil, and the holes
filled up with good earth. It is strongly contended by
these people, if the hole in which a tree is planted, be
small and the surrounding land hard, and the roots bent
up and cramped, the tree cannot grow, or if after a
long time of doubt and delay it finally survives, it
creeps along with a snail's pace, making little return
to the planter. If the tree be crooked, it is confined
with a straw band to a stake firmly planted in the

in f I

11;

m
n

150

manaceml:nt or frtit TRun».

ground. This is considered the be&t ligatiirt', as it doei
not cut the bark, as small cords often do, and it gradu-
ally gives way as the tree increases in size. When
thus planted, well manured and looked alter subsequent-
ly, the tree thrives, and in a lew years rewards the ow-
ner with its delicious and abundant iruit.

The season for planting may be any time after the
fall of the leaf by Irost, in autumn, till its reappearance
in the spring, provided the ground be not frozen. Ear-
ly in the spring is preferred for planting stone fruits;
for other fruits, if one time be equally convenient with
another, they recommend fall planting, as the earth
then becomes settled about the roots of the tree early in
the s'-'asoh. This is particularly advantageous when
the spring is succeeded by a severe summer's drought.
So important is the operation of planting, that it is con-
tended, belter have one tree well planted than three
j.»lanted badly ; and more fruit may be anticipated with-
in the first ten years if not forever, from the first one
than from all the others.

The trees are never planted in the apple orchard at
a less distance than 2 rods, and 40 feet is the distance
for apple trees most frequently. Close planting pre-
vents the trees from receiving the requisite quantity of
sun and the free circulation of air, both of which are
essential to the size, flavor and perfection of the fruit.
Forty trees will plant an acre at the distance of two
rods apart. The consequence of closer planting is the
premature decay of the trees, and an inferior quality of
fruit. A previously uncultivated or virgin soil is said
to be the best for an orchard, but if such cannot be had

?» £ V N 1 N G .

IJt

thai which has long been in pasture or meadows it
most suitable.

The most efficient manures are swamp muck, decay-
ed leaves and Vegetables, rotten wood, chip manure,
Hme, ashes and gypsum. Trees, like any other vege-
table, draw their own specific food largely from the
soil ) and to supply the elements of their growth in a-
bundance, the earth should occasionally be renewed
with those materials which may have become partial-
ly or wholly exhausted. When carefully plowed and
cultivated in hoed crops, orchards thrive most rapidly,
care being always taken to protect the trees from dam-
age, either to the trunk or roots. When the lands are
kept in grass, a space of three to six feet in diameter,
according to the size and age of the tree, is always
kept free from grass and turf around them. This is to
give the roots of the trees their share of benefit of the
sun and lains, which with the aid of manure, is of the
greatest service to the rapid growth of the trees.

The pruning is commenced at the planting of the
tree, the top of which is always in proportion to the
size and number of the roots, 11 the top be high and
splindling, it is shortened, so as to throw the lateral
shoots into a grraceful and branchino- form. The limbs
are allowed to commence about six feet from the ground.
The pruning is done annually, as the labor is then tri-
fling and the expenditure of the vital force in maturing
wood, which would if delayed afterwards have to be
cut off is thus saved, and the branches thus removed be-
ing small, the wounds are readily healed. In this case
no coyering is required, for the wound is small and one

It;!**

152

VAUIOL'S KIN'DS 01* VRmT.

season's growth will hoal it. The tree is so trimmed
that the topis sufficiently open to admit the sun and
air. The time recommended as best for trimming is
when the tree is m bloom and the sap in full flow. The
proper instrument is a fine saw or sharp knife, and the
limb is cut offclose to the remaining branch. The sap
is at this time active and is readily converted into new
bark and wood, which speedily forms over the cut. If
pruning is delayed, it is recommended that the wound
be secured by an efficient covering of salve. Old trees
or such as are growing vigorously and have been long
neglected, often require severe trimming, which should
always be done in May or June, and when the wounds
are large they should be covered with a coat of thick
Spanish brown paint or grafting wax. If they arelefl
exposed, and the growth of the tree be slow, decay
will of^en take place before they are healed. Too
much care cannot be used in these operations.

We here seen no less than 30 different kinds of ap-
ple trees, each of which it is desirable to cultivate.

Summer Apples. — Early Harvest, Red Astracan, large
Yellow Bough, Williams' Favorite.

Autumn Jlpples.- Golden Sweet, Fall Pippin, Gra-
venstain, Jerse}^ Sweeting, Pumkin Kusset, (known by
some as Bellebonne,) Rambo.

Winter Apples. — Westfield, Seek-no-farther, Bald-
win, Black Apple, Yellow Bellefleur, Detroit, Hub-
bardston. None-such, Green and Yellow Newtown Pip-
pin, Northern Spy, Blue Pearmain, Peck's Pleasant,
Rhode Island Greening, American Golden Russet, En-
glish Russet, Roxbury Russet, Svvaar, Ladies' Sweeting,

Lalman\s
pie and ^
Amonj
a dozen
far been
sally app
and perf(
Siimm
Bartlett
Autur.
or Virga
Wintei
ter Nelii
The J
able in I
Fey and
orchards
of the gi
Theb
the red i
Early T
White
succeed
The
Bleech(
red gag
ington,
Cher
red Kei
lish M
large r<

VARi()i:s K\s\)^ or rnriT.

153

Lalman-s S\vpc'tin<r, Esopiiis SpIlzonbiTg, \Vnxt>n Ap-
ple and Wine Apple.

Among the pears I noted in their ordrr of ripening,
a dozen choice kinds, the cultivation of which has thus
far been thoroughly successful and the quality univer-
sally approved, as promising more durability, hardiness
and perfect adaptation to climate and soil.

Summer Vears. — Bloodgood, Dearborn's Seedling,
Bartlett or Willianns' Bon Chretien, Steven's Genesee.

Autumn Pears. — Beurre Diel, Dix, White Doyenne
or Virtralieu, Duches D'Ano-ouleme.

Winter Pears. — Beurre D'Aramborg, Columbia, W^in-
ter Nelis, Prince's St. Germain.

The peach orchards are not so prospering and profit-
able in New York as they are in the States of Ne-w Jer-
sey and Delaware. There are however numerous peach
orchards which are frequently cultivated as the stirring
of the ground is necessary for their growth and bearing.

The best kinds in succession from early to late, are
the red and yellow Rareripes, Makacatune, Early York,
Early Tillotson, George the fourth, Morris' Red and
White Rareripes, Malta and Royal George. These
succeed each other from August to October.

The kinds of plum are the yellow, green, autumn,
Bleecher's, Imperial, Prince's yellow, Frost, Purple &
red gages, Coe's golden drop, Jefferson, Grange, Wash-:
ington, Columbia, Smith's Orleans & red magnum bonum,

Chennes. — The varieties most in use are the commo4
red Kentish or pie Cherry, familiar to every one, Engr
lish May duke, black Tartaxian, Bigarreau, Graffion,
large red Bigarreau, Elton, Belle d'Chpisy, &late Dukf,

il;:

I 'f'

IJi

ni:MAi;K* ox rAFniiNrt.

C II A P T E R XIII.

I'!.

ilil

Kdueatiun ofihe Fanner — Hospitality — Desire for ugriculttiral
knowledge — Remarks on the progress and science of agricul-
ture — Departure for Niagara Falis — Black Ruck — Niagara
River — Ferry- Boat — Approach of the Falls from Black Rock
—Navy Island — Bridge — American Rapid — Goat Island — A-
merican Fall — Width of Goat Island — Great or Horse Shoe
Fall — Narrow Rapid — Tower — Grand Scene — Platform over
the verge of the American Fall — Point View Garden — Chi-
nese Pagoda and Camara Obscura — Delightful prospect — Fer-
ry stair-case — Foot of the American Fall — Ferry- Boat — Tow-
ering CliiTs — Sublime scene — Canadian shore — Table Rock —
Prospect — Foot of the Horse- Shoe Fall — Passing behind the
Fall — Terrific sounds — Height of the Fall — Recession of the
Cataract.

After I had examined to some extent, the mode ol
agriculture and the splendid farms on the same ground
which was but a few years ago a perfect wilderness,
and now blossoming as a rose, animated by a rural pop-
ulation whose busy intelligence in the agricultural art,
more thoroughly convinced me that a periect system of
iagriculture cannot be understood without the applica-
tion of scientific painciples, as the whole system is ba-
sed on the exact acquaintance with the means of vege-
table nutrition.

Here I found a large majority of the farmers who
have acquired an elementary knowledge of mechanics,
botany, chemistry and geology, and also some acquaint-
ance with anatomy and physiology, together with a
complete practical understanding of the manual opera-
tions of the farm, the best manner of planting, cultiva-
ting and securing crops. They are familiar with the

AGIUCULTVRAL EDULATJOX.

155

proper management, feeding and breeding of animalj,
the treatment of the soils, the application of manures,
and all the various matters connected with agriculture.
In each of these departments of knowledge I received
some valuable information, which T before said these
intelligent farmers are ever as ready to give as a stran-
ger can be to ask it. With these great farmers this is
but the commencement of their education, as they are
also learning from their own experience, which'is the
most certain and complete knowledge they can obtain,
as they ascertain all the circumstances which have led
to certain results. I was here truly delighted to ob-
serve the enterprise, and the noble desire of these far-
mers for agricultural knowledge ; every one is found to
learn from his own experience as well as that of his
neighbors, and his observations on every subject that
comes within his notice. He is particularly assisted
by the cheap agricultural journals of the present day,
which embrace the latest experience of some of our best
farmers throughout remote sections of the country, on
almost every subject pertaining to his occupation; and
is thus supplying the only link remaining m the thor-
ough education of the farmer.

These people endow and foster every institution
which has a tendency to raise and improve the intel-
lectual, moral and social condition of the people, which
appears to ever be their cherished policy. Yet up to
this time, to the regret of this people, no institution eX"
pressly designed for the professional education of farm-
ers, has ever been established in this country, an insti-
tution much desired, as they declare that they are as

156

DESIRK FOR AGRUJULTMUAL KNOWLKDOi:.

yet only upon the threshhi^ld ol the great temple ol'a^^-
ricultural science, whose ample and enduring founda-
tions have been commenced by the united efforts of the
men of genius throughout both hemispheres. They
are however aiding with every means in their power
in laying the foundations broad and deep, to elevate
its superstructure, to rear its mighty columns and a-
dorn its graceful capitals ; which to the stranger from
afar appears to be steadily and delightfully advancing,
and seems to be entirely within the province of these
intelligent freemen, the great business of whose lives
is the practice of agriculture. , ^, ,,..

When we reflect on the great developement which
agricultural chemistry is now making for the benefit of
agricultural economy, the now progressive march ot
our moral population in mental culture, we cannot but
feel a regret that this renowned old Dominion has not
as yet adopted more extensively the mode of agricul-
ture carried on by the people of western New York,
and the Yankees of the east. It is the more to be re-
gretted, as we are satisfied that the intelligent people
of Virginia are aware of the indispensable necessity of
an advanced agriculture, to the comforts and wealth,
and indeed to the very existence of a great nation, ren-
ders it an object peculiarly worthy the attention and
regard of the legislative power.

In looking to the history both of ancient and modern
times, we find that wherever a people have risen to en-
during eminence, they have sedulonsly encouraged and
protected this right arm of their strength. Would that
it was adopted over the length and breadth of, our land

and to th
State of
over the
ing more
fields an(
ly redee
highway
rural po
cultural
interest i
duction.
an acre
number
In vi
tance to
with th
this occ
lect fitt
cision,
causes i
It was
nature,
Eden,
his sol
bledh
dicati^
and tc
field ;
whats
the ni
In

sciLNCE or AcnicrLirnn.

15'

and to the same perfoction that it is carried on in the
State of New York. Then instead of travelling a mile
over the most fertile portion of the earth, without see-
ing more than two or three human tenements, with
fields and fallows, whose unpromising appearance hard-
ly redeem them from the desert, we should find every
highway a continuous rambling village, tinimated by a
rural population, whose busy intelligence in the agri-
cultural art, would offer to the eye of the beholder the
interesting spectacle of the maxium of vegetable pro-
duction. The problem would then be solved, of what
an acre can be made to produce, by examples without
number.

In view of its intricacy, its magnitude and its impor-
tance to the human race, we cannot fail to be struck
with the peculiar wisdom of Deity, in assigning to man
this occupation, when a far-seeing and vigorous intel-
lect fitted him to scan with unerring certainty and pre-
cision, the visible works of his Creator, and trace their
causes and effects through all their varied relations. —
It was while in the sinless perfection of his original
nature, when the Lord God put him into the garden of
Eden, to dress it and to keep it, and agriculture was
his sole occupation, that his godlike intelligence ena-
bled him, instinctively to give appropriate names, in-
dicative of their true nature or character, to all cattle,
and to the fowl of the air, and to every beast of the
field ; and so just and accurate was his perception, that
whatsoever he called every living creature, that was
the name thereof. ' ' , '

In our present imperfect condition, a beneficent

!i- ^ ••;

I ,

?'T-,

158

«("ll!NCli or AtJillCULTU'RK.

Providence has reserved a moderate success in agricul-
ture exclusively to the exercise of a high degree of in-
telligence. His laws have been so kindly framed, that
the hand even of uninstructed toil, may receive some
requital in remunerating harvests, while their utmost
fullness can be anticipated only where corporeal efforts
are directed by the highest intelligence.

The agricultural life may be incompatible with the
high pursuits of science ; these require the exclusive de-
votion of the life, for in this as in all other cases, he
who would woo the muses, must bid farewell to pro-
fessional eminence. But there are many practical far-
mers, as there are practical men in all other departments
of life, who have distinguished themselves in knowl-
edge and literature. Thompson and Cowper have sung
the charms of rural life. How powerfully are rural
pursuits adapted to awaken a strong interest !

The pastoral life has always been deemed favorable
to high and religious conceptions. One shepherd has
poured forth his soul in the holiest and lofliest strains ;
"When I consider the heavens, the work of thv fin-
gers, the sun and moon, which thou hast ordained,
what is man, that thou art mindful of him, and the son
of man that thou visitest him*"

While travelling through this great agricultural re-
gion, I could not but feel a desire that some of the in-
telligent and more enterprising farmers of the old Do-
minion would visit western New York, and take les-
sons from these great farmers, and return using their
influence and exertions in sustaining and carrying for-
ward the great agricultural improvements of this region.

To agri(
most no
(her or
the perr
trreat R«
"" Ithei
no remo
land wi
vT digni
think th
are, it i
In othe
applaus
I was d
by the
cool CO
the cas<
by raisi
dignity
would
personi
mer w
twre of
tween
ofBuf
Aft<
such c
promi
the ca
ra, at
I pasi

bl. ACK AOCK»

Ian

l»l

To ugrlcultun*, the most healthful, the most useful, tho
most noble employment of man, rather than to any o-
Iher or perhaps all others combined, must we look for
the permanent strength, glory and happiness of our
trreat Republic.

I therefore hope there is a day coming, and that at
no remote distance, that the length and breadth of our
land will raise the profession of agriculture to its prop-
ter dignity, and not allow a lawyer or merchant to
think that he loses caste by becoming a farmer. There
are, it is true, impediments to so desirable a result. —
In other pursuits men are stiiiulated by tUe rewards of
applause or fame. In these jjighiy cultivated regions,
J was delighted to see that the farmer was not received
by the lawyer, the doctor and the r^erchant wi'h that
cool courtesy and scorn, which is unhapp '^ too often
the case in Virginia. Perhaps she coulc remed"^ this,
by raising the profession of agricultu^'e to its ;^iOper
dignity, by following the footsteps of New York, whi jh
would have a great tendency to disarm such of those
personages of many of their whims, who meet the far-
mer with scorn. This ends the sketch on the agricul-
ture of New York, or at least that part of the State be-
tween the city of Troy, on the Hudson, and the city
of Buffalo, on Lake Erie.

After remaining seve. Jays in BuirJo and viewing
such objects as I considered worthy of notice, the most
prominent of which iiave already been given, I took
the cars for the purpose of visiting the Falls of Niaga-
ra, at a di?tance of 22 miles, in going to which place,
I passed through the towns of Black Rock, which con-

160

FALLS or xVIAGAHA.

tains a population of 3625, and Tonawanta, with a pop-
ulation of 1216. The former is beautifully situated on
Niagara river, at the distance of 4 miles from the city
of Buffalo. The town is well situated for trade, as the
Niagara is navigable to this place, and as far down as
Chippewa on the Canadian side of the river, at which
place it becomes endangered by the rapids occasioned
by the Falls. At the town of Black Rock there is a
ferry-boat. The river is here about a mile mide. The
water issues forth in a very deep and impetuous cur-
rent, and the ferry-boat describes a "'/ery considerable
curve before reaching the Canadian shore. Here in a
manner commence the beauties of the mighty cataract.
JViagara Falls. — The power of language in descri-
bing the imposing grandeur and sublimity of this won-
der of wonders, is just like the faint glimmering of a
taper, when contrasted with the bright effulgence of
the meredian sun. The most that man can say in the
matter, is that it is the most sublime and stupendous
scene in nature. It is situated on the Niagara river,
14 miles above Lake Ontario. The river is the outlet
of all the waters of 4 great and powerful lakes, which
immense body of water is here wedged into a channel
only three quarters of a hiile wide. It issues from the
northeast end of lake Erie, forms the boundary between
the U. S. and Upper Canada, and falls into lake Onta-
rio, which is 400 feet lower than lake Erie, being sit-
uated apart, at a distance of 36 miles, which distance
is occupied by the Niagara river, which is from half
to 3 miles wide, which carries the waters of those pow-
erful lakes in a tolerable steady current for 18 miles.

> ■:*■•!■

FALLS OF NLVCJARA.

ItU

From Black Rock tiie stranger passes down the A-
merican shore j he shortly arrives opposite Grand Isl-
and, produced by the forking of the river. Each arm
of the river is here more than a mile wide, and the
western channel forms the boundary between Canada
and the State of New York. Passing this and Navy
Island, the stream becomes about 24 miles wide, and
Chippewa as before noticed on the Canadian shore, ter-
minates the navigation of the upper part of the Niaga-
ra, for the rapidity of the stream soon becomes so strong
that vessels cannot with safety venture farther down.
Passing this a short distance, the traveller will observe
at a distance the agitated billows, and soon after the
white-crested breakers. Passing on he comes oppo-
site Goat Island, standino; like a wedo-e in the centre of
the stream, which divides the river into two currents,
wherein the roarinoj and tumblino; billows roll withter-
rible impetuosity to their respective leaps. Passing
down the shore of the American rapid, till within a-
bout 300 yards of the fall, there is a bridge over the
rapid to Goat Island. In passing over this bridge, about
midway we have a fine view of the American rapid ;
though much smaller than the rapids on the Canadian
side of the island, yet the troubled billows roll beneath
your feet with fearful grandeur, in their hurried course
to the brink, where they in part display that awful
grandeur which is beyond the power of language to
express. On arriving at the shore of the Island, we
were requested to fork over 25 cents toll, and register
our names in a book kept for the purpose, which enti-
tles us to a passage for twelve months from that date.

162

TALLS OF NIAGARA.

After passing through the gate, immediately before you
is a large and elegant building, containing a splendid
collection of Indian curiosities. But the traveller has*
tens on, deafened by the far-famed cataract, whose
thunders cause him to hasten his pace to get a glimpse
at the wonder. He turns immediately to the right
and a few paces brings him to the American fall on its
right bank, and places him on the verge of the preci-
pice between the two falls. After the astonishment
excited in the mind abates to some extent, he will see
the farther extremity of the semicircle, breaking in a
broad white sheet ol foam, upon a heap of rocks below.
Close by its inner extremity is a gush of water which
in any other situation, would appear a considerable
cascade, but here it seems only a fragment of the larger
cataract, separated by a small island or rock in the bed
of the river. The whole of this fall is 1140 feet wide.
The eye is drawn upon the precipitous end of Goat
Island, supporting a scanty covering of earth & crowd-
ed to the edge with pines, which is 984 feet or 328
yards to the edge of the Great Fall. In passing through
this island of pines, which conceal at intervals portions
of this scenerv, and the deep hollow thunder of the
cataracts, mingled with the roar of the long and angry
rapid, vvill cause the traveller to quicken his pace, and
he soon arrives at the most stupendous fall on the face
of the globe. The astonishment here excited in the
mind at the magnitude and grandeur of this scene of
scenes, is without a parallel. After collecting himself
sufficiently, he will pass over a bridge constructed over
a rapid about 100 feet wide, when he arrives at a tow-

er ere
Great
sembla
tre of
rolls b
of the
say ca
so on
appal
view
parall
ascen

liORSK-SHOfi FALL.

16S

)re you
>lendid
er has*
whose
glimpse
e right
on its
preci-

shment
ill see
; in a

below.

which
erable

■larger

he bed

; wide.

fGoat

Towd-

)r 328

rough

>rtions

)f the

angry

?, and

J face

fi the

ne of

mself
over

tow-

er erected on a great rock, at the very edge of the
(areat or Horse-Shoe Fall, so called as it bears some re-
semblance to the form of a horse-shoe. From the cen-
tre of this fall rises a prodigious cloud of mist, which
rolls heavenward in rablime grandeur, while the rays
of the sun add sublimity to the scene, which travellers
say can be seen at the distance of 50 miles. Here al-
so on the very brink of the precipice, is given a more
appalling impression of the horrors of the scene, as the
view Irom the edpje of this rock is certainly without a
parallel. The next move of the traveller will be to

ascend the tower.

As T am here the tower I now ascend,
While proud Niagara's wateis round nie bend;
Up the steps till I gain the utmost verge —
Far, far below, beheld the angry surge ;
Beneath your feet the rainbow's arch declines.
Gleaming with richer gems than India's mines;
And deep within the gulf yet farther down,
IVlid mist, foam and spray, behold Niagara's crown.
After viewing this grand scene from the top of this

tower, the traveller will return in the same way that
he came to the American shore ; after recrossing the
bridge over the American rapid, he will turn to the
left, and follow down the left bank of the rapid, about
300 yards, brings him again to the American fall, on
opposite bank from which he viewed it before. Here
is a platform erected with long timbers well framed,
with a strong railing, which is placed obliquely over
the edge of the precipice ; the end nearest the bank be-
ing well balanced down with rock, while the other
end extends about ten feet over the verge of the preci-
pice. From this the stranger can look down into the
awful abyss beneath, and behold a cloud of mist as-

IG'l.

(■IlIN!:r<E r^^CODA.

ceiidino; in sublime s-raiuleur toward him. At a dis-
tance of about 80 yards irom this tall, is situated Point
View Garden, tastefully and handsomely laid out, in
which and near the precipice is situated the Chinese
Pago and Chimera Obscura. On arriving at this, the
traveller is requested to pay over 25 cents for admit-
tance, in doing which and registering his name, he is
entitled to promenade the garden, and the use of the
Pagoda during his residence at the tails. This splen-
did garden is elevated 30 feet above the fall ; the Pago-
da is 75 feet high, the top of which is gained by a cir-
cular staircase.

Strangers by first visiting the top of this edifice will
save themselves much trouble and fatio;ue, as almost
every object of interest on either sideol the river from
Grand Island to the Whirlpool rapids, are in view from
this building. The proprietor, Mr. Robinson, will
point out to travellers, the nearest road to each, and the
easiest mode of access to the very point from which
they can he seen with pleasure and advantage. The
top of the Pagoda is crowned with a chimera obscura,
not perhaps surpassed, if equalled tor minute and liv-
ing delineation, by any other in the world j exhibiting
in all its brilliant coloring, the splendid scenery of the
falls, the chain bridge, 1 k miles below, the numerous
picturesque islands that stud the river, the rapids above
and below the mighty cataract, the rich amphiteatre of
the Canadian shore : in short, a panoramic view of ev-
er}'' thing stationary or in motion, that is in sight, there
being a revolution of the mirror, which* delineates in
succession the £"rand scenerv of the s. rroundino^ country.

Is]

The

an side
immedii
consists!
down ii
grade o
right ai
each ot
each si<
The rai
is let d(
an engi
which
son ma
ease an
lar hei;
go up
rocks s
shado\
soon b
most I
ttie ra
kind,
Shoe

feet i

rockj

rtllUtV STAIKCASK.

165

And while I an' on Pagoda's lofty height,
I slop to rest, and rapture tills the sight )
The tranquil Lake above, in toliuge rich I view,
Following the scene the whirlpool rapids too, —
That watery mist that forms the radiant how.
Is nature's, yes nature's sublimest show !
Oh ! rapturous gaze, yet had I Shakespeare's pen,
1 would not, could not take the prospect in.
The traveller on leaving the Pagoda for the Canadi-
an side of the river, will observe the Ferry Staircase,
immediately to the south of the garden. This staircase
consists of steps from near a level with the garden,
down into the gulf on a level with the water, with a
grade of about forty degrees ; the steps being on the
right and a railway on the left, running parallel with
each other. The whole is under roof, and walls on
each side, the better to protect it from the weather.- —
The railway contains a small car for two persons, which
is let down and drawn up on the track, by means ol
an engine propelled by water power near the ialls ; by
which car or staircase the most nervous and timid per-
son may descend to the bottom of the cataract 'with
ease and safety, though about 250 feet in perpendicu-
lar height. Here the traveller may turn to the left,
go up the stream a few paces, and climb over some
rocks at the loot of the towering precipice which over-
shadowa him. This path is a rough and wet onej but
soon brings him to the foot of the American Fall, a
most beautiful sheet of water, and well worthy to hold
the rank of the second wondef of the world of this
kind, although it cannot be compared to the Horse-
Shoe Fall in grandeur and sublimity. It is about 1140

feet in breadth, as before stated, and either from its
rocky bed being composed oi harder materials, or from

■^iMMMMff'

166

IL^BUMC SCE.Vfi.

the greater weight of Water coming down the Canadi-
an side, and wearing away that channel more rapidly,
it is about 20 feet higher than the Horse-Shoe fall. It
does not fall into a gulf or caldron as the Horse-Shoe
fall does, but among huge rocks where it dashes itself
into an ocean of foam, and then rushes with tremen-
dous velocity to join its former companion.

We now return to the foot of the staircase from which
we came, and there take a boat for the Canadian shore.
On reaching the middle of the river, the attention is
engaged by the surpassing grandeur of the scene. Look
to the right, you see the milkwhite surges rolling on-
ward and onward in awful grandeur, in this deep nar-
row chasm of only about 600 yards wide, with tower-
ing banks of about 300 feet in perpendicular height. —
Look to the left, and behold within an area of a semi-
circle of cataracts more than 3000 feet in extent, and
while floating on the creamy surface of an awful gulf,
raging, fathomless and interminable, majestic cliffs,
splendid rainbows, lofty trees and columns of spray
are the gorgeous decorations of this theatre of wonders ;
while a dazzling sun shed refulgent glories upon every
part of the scene. Surrounded with clouds of vapor,
and stunned into a state of confusion and terror by the
hideous noise, the traveller looks upward to the height
*of 167 feet, where are vast floods, dense, awful and stu-
pendous, vehemently bursting over the precipice, and
rolling down, as if the windows of heaven wpie open-
ed to pour another deluge upon the earth.

Tlio' nerves may tremble and fears may alarm,
Yet I glide these milky '.vavcs secnio from harm.—-

SL'BL1M£ SCENS.

167

I. It

t loft old Augusta, my friends and home,
Mid this sublime theatre of scenes to roam.
Wondrous subHme, transcending all Tve seen ;
Here's something more than language can explain ;
Those sparkling torrents falling Irom these heights,
Gilded with the sun by day and moon by night.

To add still more to the awful grandeur presented to
the traveller, as he stands in his little boat, gazing on
nature's grandest scene, are the loud sounds resembling
discharges of artillery or volcanic explosions, which
are distinguishable amid the watery tumult, and adding
terror to the gulf in which he has moored his little
boat, which has more the appearance of floating on the
surface of milk than of water. Draw your mind irom
those terrific sounds, and you again behold with de-
light, the sun looking majestically through the ascend-
ing spray, while it is encircled by the most radiant ha-
lo, while rainbows which apparently have tenfold the
brilliancy and gaudiness of those viewed in the heav-
ens, can here be seen raising their majestic arches over
the mighty gulf or caldron into which that stupendous
sheet of water falls, together with numerous fragments
of smaller ones floating on every side, which would
momentarily vanish, only to give place to a succession
of others, very often more brilliant than those just van-
ished.

The traveller can now have his little boat moored on
to the Canadian shore, where there is a cab in readi-
ness for him, which will take him to such place as he
may wish to go, by ascending the towering cliff by
means of a road hewn obliquely up the side of the pre-
cipice. Once out of the mighty gulf, we direct our
diiver to take us to the Table-Rock, which is consider-

1G8

T A B L K - il O C K .

ed by travellers the best point which can be gained, as
it affords the spectator a complete view of this fall,
commandidg at the same time the whole of the furious
rapid above, from the first tumultuous roll ol the waves
down through its foaming course, till it subsides in the
middle of the curve into momentary smoothness, and
then dashes below in that awful grandeur so often re-
peated. From the rising ground above the Table-Rock
there is perhaps a better view of the various features of
the landscape. I however, did not consider it so good
for viewing the falls as some do, because one is eleva-
ted considerably above the most important objects ; a
^tuation highly disadvantageous to powerful impres-
sions, while almost every other point of land from which
the falls can be viewed on either the American or Ca-
nadian shores, possess the power of exciting the mind
to such an extent, by the magnitude and grandeur of the
scene, that for the first time the traveller can scarcely
collect himself sufficientlVi to be able to form a tolera-
ble conception of the stupendous scene before him. —
It is impossible even from the Table-Rock, the best
view that can be had, for the eye to embrace the whole
of the scene at once ; it must gradually make itself ac-
quainted in the first place, with the component parts
of the scene, each of which is of itself an object of won-
der. It is said by persons who have an opportunity of
contemplating this scene at their leisure for years to-
gether, that they think every time they behold it, each
part appears more wonderful and sublime, and that it
has only been at their last visit to the cataract, that
ihpy have boon rnabled to discover all its grandeur.

the
proach
there is
rhay vci
gulf ne£
the staii
cure a
him in
burstin<
Ihis litt]
enterin<
in a poi
the vast
sound, 1
boiling
the gres
betweei
main bo
rocky o
issues fi
keeps t]
ly wet.
he is f]
fills hi!
lime tt
clouds
check
of hug(
gains <
where
eye ol

1^Afesl^'(i BEini^D Tun tall*

The traveller can now teav« the Table Rock and ap»-
proach the Horse-Shoe fells, immediately below which
there is a strong and powerful staircase, whereon he
rhay vt'ith perfedt safety descend again'into the mighty
gulf near the foot of the fall. At or near tlie foot of
the staircase is a small building, at which he can pro-
cure a change of clothes, and a guide who v/ill conduct
him in behind the mighty flood, which is vehemently
bursting over the precipice. The traveller on leaving
this little building with his guide, for the purpose of
entering in behind the dazzling veil of water, is placed
in a position where he can more adequately appreciate
the vastness of the foaming cataracts, their tremendtiui
sound, the terror of the impending precipice, and the
boiling of tha mighty flood. He now enter's in behind
the great curtain, where he has room enough to pass
between the towering precipice on the right and the
main body of tho watet on the lefl;* His path is a I'ough
rocky one, besides being very wet, as the mist which
issues from the grand curtain of water on the left,
keeps the path and also the cUf!^on the right constant-
ly wet. As the traveller follows on after his guide,
he is frightfully stunned by the appalling noise which
fills his ear, while passing through this isle of the sul*
lime theatre of wonders : yet he folio VVs on, While
clouds of spray sometimes envelope him, and suddenly
check his faltering steps. After scrambling over piles
of huge rocks that obstruct his way in some places, he
gains a considerable distance in this alley of scenes,
where he stands obscured from the eye of all, save the

eye of his God and the guide whom he followed. He
8

170

KKCESSIOri OF THK TALLd,

•taiids here surrounded at times with clouds of vapor,
and stunned into a state of confusion and terror by the
hideous noise* Tlie astonished stranger looks up be-
tween the mighty precipice and the sublime veil of
wonders which hides him from the world. In this sit-
uation the soul of the stranger can be susceptible only
ot one emotion, and that is fear.

The traveller now follows his guide back over the
rugged path which he came, and by the time he gets
out of the curtained alley, which be had been passing
through, his clothes will be thoroughly steeped by the
mist and clouds of spray which sometimes enveloped
him on his journey. On arriving again at the little
building from which he started, his kind guide demands
only the small sum of 25 cents for his services and the
use of the suit of clothes worn on the journey* The
traveller has now a long staircase to ascend, which is
attended M'ith some fatigue, which places him again on
the Canadian bank, where he can again visit the Table
Rock, upon which Mr. Robinson, the proprietor of the
Chinese Pagoda and Chimera Obscura on the American
shore, is building a splendid establishment, and also an
Observatory, from which can be had the best views on
either shore, for which he will be indebted to Mr. Rob*
inson ; let him view the falls on the American or Ca*
iradian shores or both. The falls, with one mile of the
rapids above, is 224 feet in perpendicular height ; the
main fall being 1^7 feet in perpendicular height, and
the one mile of rapids above a fall of 57 feet, which
together make 224- feet.

That the Falls of Niagrara were at one time lowev

^ .1

ni:t'i:^?iioN or hie palls.

171

apor,
y the
p be-
eil of
lis sit-
e only

clown the river than thoy are at present, is a fact that
can be proven by reason and observation. The quan-
tity of water that falls over this precicipicc, is estima-
ted at 120,000,000 tons an hour; which would make
the enormous quantity of 30,24<0^g00,000 gallons of
water, which passes over this awful precipice in the
short space of one hour. The rapidity with which the
continual attrition of so large a body of water wears a-
Way the hardest rocks, is known to every one, and has
been exemplified in the changes which Niagara Falls
have undergone, both in form and position during the
short time they have been under the observation of civ-
ilized beings. Most of the oldest inhabitants agree in
their statements respecting the alteration which has ta-
ken place in the shape of the Great or Horse-Shoe cat-
aract, within their recollection.

The most ordinary man, with a cursory glance at
what is now taking place at the falls, would have not
a doubt on his mind, that the great cause of the com-
paratively quick retrogade movement of the tails, is
the loose and soft material on which the limestone rock
rests, and the destructive action of the water upon it.
The t^ater also penetrating the crevices between the
strata of solid limestone, detaches them from each oth-
er and dispose? them to fall. At present the limestone
rock projects considerably over the shale at the falls^
and it is this projection which makes it practicable to
pass between the dazzling curtain of water and ihfi
rock, nearly half way under the Horse-Shoe Fall.-

\V2

RECKShlON or THE TALL.?.

CHAPTER XIV.

iletnarks on the Reccwion of the Falls — Goat Island — Old du-
sorted channel — Devil's Hole — Bloody Run — Excavation —
Plains of Clilppewa — Hi&turical Sketch — Burning Spring —
Village of Niagara — Departure — Suspension Bridge — Whirl-
pool Rapids — Roman's Run — Awful Scene — Lewriston— Indi-
ans — Queenstown Heights — Brock's Monument — Prospect —
Welland Canal — Lake Ontario — Refraction or IWfirage — ^To-
ronto — |Iigh Ridgo — ^Military Importance of Toronto — Beau-
ties of Lake Ontario — Ducks and Loons — Oswego — Manufoo-
tures — Steamer British Empire — Sackett's Harbour.

It has long been the popular belief from a mere cur-
sory inspection of the district, that the Niagara once
flowed in a shallow valley across the whole platform,
from the present site of the Falls to the Queenstown
Heights, where it is supposed the cataract was first sit-
uated 3 and that the river has been slowly eating its
way backwards through the rocks for a distance of 7
miles. According to this hypothesis, the falls must
have had originally nearly twice their present height,
and must have been always diminishing in grandeur
from age to age, as they will continue to do in future,
so long as the retrogade movement is prolonged. It be-
comes therefore, a matter of no small curiosity and in-
terest, to inquire at what rate the work of excavation
is now going on ; and thus to obtain a measure for cal-
culating how many thousands of years or centuries have

been required to hollow out the mighty chasm already
excavated.

It is an ascertained fact as before stated that the falls

rajci:>ftioN or riiii tall*.

173

do not remain absolutely stationary at the same point
of space, and that they have shifted their position slight-
ly during the last half century. Every observer will
also be convinced that the small portion of the great
ravine, -vVhich has been eroded within the memory of
man, is so precisely identical in character with the
whole gorge for seven miles below, that the river sup-
plies an adecjuate caUse (ot executing the task assigned
(o it, provided we grant sufficient time for its cornple-
tioni The top of the precipice over which the water
falls being a mass of limestone, about 90 feet thick, be-
neath which lie shales of eqtial thickness, as the water
at the fcfot of the falls is said to be very deep. Those
ihales^ owing io their softness, are continually under-
mining by the action of the spray, driven violently by
guils of wind against the base of the precipice. Irt
consequence of this dirfnte'gfation, portions of the in-
cumbent rock are left unsupported and tumble dowrt
from time to time, so that the catafact is made to re"
cede southwards. So that I think I am sate in advan-'
cing, tjhat in the course of a few centuries^, Goat Island
which now separates the falls, by the wearing aWay of
f;t^e rocjts, will be isolated in the midst of the fallen
^qqdf ,?s a goIq^sjiI pillar, carved by the resistless hand
pf nature,* ^nd a s^lei>did ?ind astonishing monument,
from which posterity by tj[iFn|ng to the records of the
pre^enjt (J^y, njay iearn wliat j}rp»fes;* the cataracts
have made toward lake F^rle within 9. jC^rtain period of
t^me. The Island has lost several acres In ai;ea ^i7t}li^
^he last ten years. I h»ve no doubt that this w^s^i^
neither J9 i)or bas been a mere temporary accident.

174

iNDicATioxi or Ri:or:j*.sio^.

Bince I found that the same recession was in progress
In various other waterfalls which I visited.

I also found an old river bed, running through the
drift parallel to the Niagara, its course still marked by
swamps and ponds, such as we find in all alluvial plains,
and only remarkable here because the waters of Niag-
ara river never run at a lower level by 300 feet. This
deserted old channel occurs between the Muddy river,
and the Whirlpool rapids a distance of 4 miles below
the £ills, which in this case deserves notice. It is 100
yards wide, near which I discovered with no small de-
light, at the summer-house above the Whirlpool, a bed
of stratified sand and gravel, containing fluviatile shells
in abundance. Fortunately, a few yards from the sum-
mer-house a pit has been recently dug for a cellar of a
new house, to the depth of nine feet in the shelly sand,
in which I found shells identical in species with those
which occur in a fresh state in the bed of the Niagara,
near the ferry.

There is also a notch or indentation ealled the Devil's
Hole, on the right or American side of the Niagara,
half a mile below the whirlpjol, which deserves no-
tice, for I think there are signs of the great cataract
having been once situated here. A small streamlet
called the Bloody Run, from a battle fought here with
the Indians, joins the Niagara at this place, and has
hollowed out a lateral chasm. Ascending the great
ravine, we here see facing us, a projecting cliff of lime-
atone, which stands out forty (cet beyond the general
range of the river cliff below, and has its flat summit
bar»? and withort fioil, just as if it had once formed the

n.ATNs or cHirrRWA-

^aslern side of the great fall.

The old deserted channel above named, and the patch-
es of fluviatile strata occurring between the old banks
of drift and the precipice, and not having been met
with on other parts of the platform at a distance from
the Niagara, this of itself, I think, would confirm the
theory previously adopted on independent evidence,
of the recession of the mighty catar«\pt from Queens-
town southward. The narrowness of the gorge near
Queenstown, where it is just large enough to contain
the rapid current of water, accords well witti tfie same
hypothesis 5 and there is no ground for suspecting that
the excavation was assisted by an original rent in the
rocks caused by some convulsion of nature, because
there iz no fissure at present in the limestone at the
falls, where the moving waters alone have the power
to cut their way backwards toward lake Erie.

Thus I leave the mighty cataract, and the river Ni-
agara, so far as it was noticed in connection with the
recession of the falls from Lake Ontario backwards to-
ward Lake Erie, which I considered so plain that I
could not help making a note of it. The notes on the
river Niagara, below the falls, were of cours? taken af-
ter I left the falls for lake Ontario ; but they were bro't
forward for the purpose of having the notes concern-
ing the falls all in succession.

From the Table-Rock on the Canadian side of th^
Niagara, I passed up the right bank of the river sever-
al miles, for the purpose of visiting Chippewa, cele-
brated for the great battle of July, 1814, between the
Americans, commanded by Gens, Brown and Scott,

176

rLAh%> OF VXilVTEWA,

and the British under Gens, I>rumniond and Riall.-— »
In this great battle, it is said the towering plume in the
cap of the gallant Scott, was the rallying point for the
American soldiers* On this iaraous battle-field I was
reminded of one of the charges made upon the enemy
by the heroic Scott ; who on hearing the Bfitish saying
they are good at long shot, but cannot stand cold steely
called immediafely on his soldiers to give the lie to
that slander, and the command "charge !" was given.
The charge thus ordered is said to have decided the
day. There is here a town, which is beautifully situ-
ated at the junction of Chippewa river with the Niag-
ara. It is situated on both sides of the river, and has
considerable trade, as the river Niagara is navigable
Irom lake Erie, as far down as this place, which how-
ever, 13 attended with some danger, owing to the in-
creasing rapidity of the current, caused by the great
rapids and mighty cataraqt a few miles below.

On my return from Chippewa to the Falls, I called
at the burning Spring. This is situated at the edge of
the Niagara, just above the rapids, where carburettea
hydrogon, or in the modern chemical phraseology, a
light hydro-carbon rises from beneath the water, out oi
a limestone rock. The bituminous matter supplying
this gas, is supposed to be of animal origin. The visi-
ble gas makes its vyay in countless bubbles through the
clear, transparent waters of the Niagara. On applica-
tion of a lighted candle it takes fire, and plays about
with a lambent, flickering ffame, which seldom touches
the water, the gas being at first too pure to be inflam'»'
I3!)able, and only obtaining sufficient oxygen, after mia-

■' *

WIRK SUSPlilXslON BRlDCi:.

177

gling with the atmosphere, at the height ol several in-
ches above the surface of the stream.

I now returned to the village of Niagara, on the A-
nierican side. This ia beautifully situated near the
falls, an4 contains a population of 1277. The tow^nia
well laid out, and contains some large and well con-
ducted hotels, some fine residences and churches. A
portion of the inhabitants can view at their leisure part
of the falls from their respective residences, while the
whole town is filled with the noise of the mighty wa-
ters, whose thunders are said to fill an area of seven
hundred square miles.

On my way to Lewiston, I passed the great Suspen-
sion Bridge over the Niagara, about one and a half miles
below the falls. This famous bridge was just building,
and looked like a work of peril. There were here a
number of workmen employed, some working in wood,
some with iron, while others were platting the long
wire cables, which were in part to iorm the might}'-
bridge. This celebrated work was under the direction
of a Mr. Ellet, a noted workman. On both of the aw-
tul precipices is a strong, high and powerful frame,
whidh i^ firmly p>Ianted in the solid rock of which the
p|-ecipices are composed. These two frames lare 800
feet apart, which is the length of the bridge. Across this
mighty gulf were suspended only four of the wire cab-
bies, which are to bear up this great, bridge; the first of
which was drawn over the gulf by means ol a great
rope, which was also drawn over by a smaller cord,
which last was carried across the river by means of a

kite. Afler one of these great cajjles w^ secyred t^
8*

' 1 !

-I

178

VvniE »i'si»nN.-i()N* hii\\ni\L.

its place, the others were easily drawn over by means
of a pully. These cables hang in the air at the height
of 230 feet, over a vast body of Water, rushing through
a narrow gorge at the rate of 30 miles an hour. These
four great wire cables had more the appearance of that
much cobweb suspended over a great space, than that
much toward a ^jreat bridcre.

On two of these cables was suspended a little car,
capable of holding two persons. This was so construct-
ed as to roll on the cables by means of pullies ; which
little car was drawn from precipice to precipice with
two persons snugly seated in it, and passed on this frail
gossamer-looking structure, in perfect safety, with the
roaring, rushing, boiling Niagara, 230 feet beneath
them, while their heads grew dizzy on looking down
into the fearful chasm, where rolled the milky Niaga-
ra in awful grandeur. The bridge when completed,
will be, perhaps the most sublime work of art on the
continent, although it is not probable that one person
in twenty, w^ill have the nerve to cross it.

The Whirlpool Rapids are situated below the bridge.
The river at this place makes a turn at an angle of a-
bout ninety degrees on the American bank, and on the
Canadian bank there is a very considerable curve, giv-
ing the Niagara here a singular shape. The whirlpool
is in the curve, and principally on the Canadian side.
The whole of this scene presents an awful appearance.
In a southwestern direction are seen two streamlets ap-
proaching the whirlpool, which are thrown in cascades
over the limestone precipice, afler cutting through su-
perficial red drifl, about 35 feet thick. On the west

VPllIULrOOI. RAriDS— LEW)SToy.

179

♦^'f the curve is a very considerable stream, thrown in a
like cascade over the precipice. This stream is Bo-
man's Run. On the north is a great gully, between
which and Boman's Run, the cliffs consist of drift. In
Ihe ansle on the American side, is situated the summer
house, where sand and fresh water shells rest on the
top of the precipice, which was named in the notes of
the falls. About half a ciile below this place, is the
notch or iiidentaticjn called the Devil's Hole, which is
also a considerable curiosity. This place was also no-
ticed in connection with the falls. The whirlpool, I
repeat, present? a grand a» j. awful appearaace ; while
itanding on the toweri""; precipice which surrounds it,
and see how completely the current is carried round
in the drcular whirlings, that water assumes in any
vortex, having a large outlet bit its base, that trees,
beams and branches of wood are carried round and round
for hours in succession in its centre, sometimes descend-
ing out of sight and reappearing again near the same
place, broken into fragments. It can with propriety
be called a second maelstrom, although on a smaller
•cale than the celebrated maelstrom of Norway, judg-
ing from the accounts given of the latter. The great
suspension bridge will afford an excellent view of tiiis
grand scene.

The town ot Lewiston, with a population of 2540,
is b'^autifully situated on high and commanding ground,
on the American bank of the Niagara river. This town
possesses a delightful view of the surrounding country,
embracing Queenstown Heights, on the Canadian shore.
The town of Lewiston is well situated to carry oa

ISO

QUEENSTOWN HEICMt^r

trade, as the Niagara is navigable from its mouth up (q
this place for steamers. It is also connected with Lock-
port and the city of Buffalo by railroad. There is a
settlement of Tuscarora Indians at this place, who are
an energetic people, possessing some ingenuity j the
women in particular, who manufacture some fancy a^*-
ticles ; and those containing needle work are wrought
in a very superior style. These squaws can be seen
in the neighboring towns, some of whom I saw as far
up the river as the city of Buffalo, where they were
selling baskets, trinkets and fancy articles of various
styles. The whole of these Indians can speak sufficient
English to be understood. They are intelligent, and
appear as friendly to the stranger as the white inhabi-
tants. The prevailing vice with these Indians, and
particularly with the men, is drunkenness ; their chief
motto appears to be whiskey, whiskey.

At this to\\n I took a ferry-boat, and again crossed
the river for the Niagara district in Canada, where I
visited Queenstovi Heights, which is celebrated for
,the desperate battle and capture of the Americans, on
the 1 3th of October, 1812, and for the deaJJj pf the
British General Sir Isaac Brock. The spot on which
he fell is marked by a monument, erected to his mem-
ory. It is 126 feet high, and stands 270 feet above
the level of the Niagara stream, which runs just below
it: so that it commands a noble vievv'. To the lefl a
prodigious sweep of forest terminates in blue Canadian
,hills ; on the right is the American shore. There stands
the village of Levviston, with its winding descent to
the ferry, while at our feet lay Queenstown, its sordid-

|» R Q SJ» E C T

181

J|l^ss being lost in distance, and its long streets present-
ing a beautiful appearance. The mighty Niagara,
whose angry surges are rushing between its lofty banks,
beautifully adorned with trees, which awful chasm sud-
denly widens at Queenstown, causing the waters to
spread and relax their speed, while making their way
with three or four bends to the lake : while in the dis-

tance the traveller beholds the wliite church 'of Niag-

,..■'-'.■ '■.•■•*

jgira village, rising above the woods some miles off, and

beyond the vast lake, its waters grey on the horizon.
There was truly life in this magnificent scene. The
ferry-boat was buffeted by the waves, and groups of
persons were in waiting on either side the ferry. While
looking over the surrounding country, teams could be
^ en in the fields at their labor, and persons at their re-
spective occupations. Immediately after passing the
elevated plateau of Queenstown Heights, the land
shelves abruptly toward the shores of Lake Ontario,
distant five or six miles, in a manner which must at
once arrest the attention of the geologist. The table-
land, 300 feet high, is broken by a precipice parallel
to the lake. There is little doubt that this was once
the boundary of its southern shore.

The Welland canal, 42 miles long, connects the two
Jakes, so there is an uninterrupted navigation between
lakes Erie and Ontario. This great canal is situated
considerably west of Queenstown Heights, and so la-rge
that vessels can pass and repass from lake to lake, not-
withstanding the great obstacle placed by nature be-
tween the two Lakes, viz : the cataract. The district
through which this canal passes, contains many fertile

|8i>

TORONTO,

and highly cultivated farms ; the mode of agriculture
being similar to that of the State of New York.

At the town of Lewiston, I left the State of New
York, by sailing on board the steamer St. Lawrence, a-
cruss lake Ontario to the city of Toronto, in the Home
district, in Upper Canada. Not long after we had pas-
sed the American fort Niagara, at the mouth of the riv-
er, we were in the very bosom of lake Ontario, and af-
ter sailing for some time I was surprised at seeing the
city of Toronto in the horizon, and the low wooded
plain on which the town is built. By the effect of re-
fraction or mirage so common on this lake^ the houses
and trees appeared drawn up and lengthened vertical-
ly, so that I should have guessed them to be from 300
to 400 feet high, while the gently rising ground behind
the town had the appearance of distant mountains. In
the ordinary state of the atmosphere, none of this land,
much less the city would be visible at this distance, e-
ven in the clearest weather.

After arriving at the city and traversing its streets, I
found it to be pleasantly and beautifully situated, and
learned that it contained abouc 21000 inhabitants.-
The town is regularly laid out and contains a number
of fine buildings. This place was formerly the seat of
the provincial government, being transferred to this
place from Kingston ; but since the union of Upper
and Lower Canada, it has been removed to the city of
Montreal.

Toronto is located on a bay of the same name. The
plain in which the city stands, has a gentle and to the
eye, imperceptible slope upwards from the lake, and is

ULALTIKS OF I.AKK ONTARIO.

183

isUll covered for the most part with adense fofest, which
is however beginning to give way before the axe of
the new settler. In the direction due northward, there
seems to be a perfectly level plain for a mile, when
you corrc to a ridge, the base of which I was informed
was 108 feel above lake Ont^irio. This ridge rises ab-
ruptly with a steep slope towards the lake, and is about
30 feet high. Its base consists of clay, and its summit
is sand, which is covered with pines%

This city when the capital of Upper Canada, better
known by the name of York, was the great depository
of British military stores, whence the western ports
were supplied. This famous capitol was captured by
the Americans under Gen. Dearborn, on the 27th of
April, 1813, with all its stores.

I again took passage on board the same steamer, and
sailed down and across the lake to the city of Oswego,
in the State of New York, a distance of 170 miles. —
The weather was cold and disagreeable on the Lake.
The beauties of this splendid lake, caused us frequently
to leave the stove in the cabin ^nd stand on deck, view-
ing th?; delightful waves, till we were compelled by
the efTects of cold again to retire to the cabin. The
beautiful waters of this Lake appear to change their
hues almost every moment ; the shades of purple and
green fieeting over it, now dark, now lustrous, now
pale like a dolphin dying or to use a more exact com-
parison dappled, and varying like the back of a mack-
erel, with every now and then a streak of silver light
dividing the shades of green. Magnificent, tumultu-
ous clouds came rolling round the horizon, and the lit-

iSl

OSWEGO.

tie graceful schooners falling into every beautiful atti-
tude, and catching every variety of light and shade,
would pass by our steamer and courtesying as it were,
as they passed, while hundreds of wild ducks and great
black loons could be seen skimming and diving, and
sporting over the bosom of the lake, which of course
would raise a terrible squall when compelled to leave
by flight. — And in the vicinity of the shores, numerous
little birds in gorgeous plumage of crimson and black,
were fluttering about the jbanks and above the surface of
the lake. There appeared to be life, and light, and beau-
ty in every thing the stranger beheld, in this northern
region, after being released from the prison in which he
was locked up by the chilling blasts of this cold region.
The city of Oswego contains a population of 4665. It
is,beautifully situated at the junction of the Oswego river
with the lake, and is a place of very considerable trade.
A vast quantity of wheat is brought down the lakes and
ground at this place, as there is here a number of large
flouring mills. The Oswego river furnishes ah inexhaus-
tible water-power, which is very extensively used for
the above purposes, as well as for propelling factories of
other kinds. There is here an excellent harbour, protec-
ted by piers constructed by the United States govern-
ment. I remained part of a day at this city waiting the
arrival of the British Empire, one of the British line
steamers from Montreal. This beautiful steamer 8aile4
first into Sacket^s Harbour, at the eastern end of lake
Ontario. This deep, safe and splendid harbour belongs
the State of New York, is noted as an important naval
station and is strongly fortified by the United States,

KINGSTON

K^r>

CHAPTER XV.

UPPBR CANADA.

Departure for Canada— Kingston — Rideau and Grenville Canal
— Wolf and Long Islands — Point Henry — Harbour — Naval
Depot — Plateau — Magnificent view — Bridge — Street* — For-
tifications — Public Buildings — Granite region — Lake Catara-
qui or Thousand Isles — Picturesque Scenery — Fright of the
Passengers — Rivar St. Lawrence — Johnstown District-Brock-
ville — Ogden^burg — Ruins of Prescott — Late Canadian Re-
volt — New York Sympathisers — Wind-Mill — Fiastern District
— Cities and Towns — Cornwall — Complainta against the New
York Sympathisers — Lake St. Francis — Coteau Du Lac —
Cascade Rapids — Scenery — River St. Lawrei —w — Lake St,
Louis.

At Sacket's Harbour, I again left the State of New
York for Canada, and the steamer touched the State on»
]y at Ogdensburg ; at which place I did not land. On
leaving Sacket's Harbour we sailed direct for the city
of Kingston, on the northern shore of lake Ontario, in
the Midland district. The city of Kingston is situated
near where the St. Lawrence opens into the great lake,
and is the most important entrepot between western
Canada and the great ports of Montreal and Quebec.

Kingston is well situated, and has great trade, is 260
miles from the city of Montreal, by the celebrated Ri-
deau and Grenville canal, which commences at this
place, and unites the Ottowa river with Lake Ontario.
This is a ship canal, of 135 miles jn length. Opposite
the city the river or lake is divided into two channels,
by Wolfe and Long Islands^ the centre of which forms
an elevated ridge, covered by a magnificent fprest,—

■'>.

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Sciences
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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4S03

186

KINGSTON.

The town is situated on the western bank of a short es-
tuary, into which the Rideau canal communicates. —
Point Henry, a promontory rising 100 feet above the
level of the lake, and crowned with strong fortifica-
tions, commanding a narrow channel of the river, is on
the opposite side of the estuary.

On approaching the city from the lake, a dangerous
shoal renders it necessary to make a considerable sweep,
before entering the well sheltered harbour, in the course
of which the town, with the public storehouses built
of white stone, the barracks, and other public buildings,
become visible, and the naval bay, the depot of the na-
val force on the lakes is passed. The houses extend
above a mile and a half along the shores of the lake,
which form a gentle acclivity, the summit of which
consists of a plateau of limestone rock, from which there
is a magnificent view, embracing the lake, the river,
the islands and forests. A ,wooden bridge, built in fif-
teen feet water, and 600 yards long, is thrown across
the estuary. Vessels drawing fifteen feet water come
close to the wharves, and Kingston is a principal ren-
dezvous of the large steamers which navigate lake On-
tario. The principal streets are sixty-six feet wide,
run from north to south and from east to west, and are
soon dry after the heaviest rains, in consequence of
the favorable nature of the site. The fortifications have
been excavated from the granite and limestone rock. A-
mong the most important public buildings aie the late
provincial capitol, the provincial penitentiary, and a
large and splendid public hospital. Kingston contains
a population of about 9,000. The country around tjio

CATAUAQl'I LAKE — BROCKVlLLi:.

18'

eg-

town must always be comparatively barren, as much
of thii soil consists of granite and orranite detritus : and
I predict that it never will become a great metropolis,
such as the city of Toronto might be made, or such as
many of the cities in the United States, which I had
passed through.

On sailing from Kingston for the river St. Lawrence,
after passing Wolfe and Long Islands, we entered that
part of lake Cataraqui, sometimes known as the lake of
the Thousand Islets. This lake is studded with 1692
islets, which are chiefly small, and present a very
splendid appearance in the bosom of this delightful
lake J the whole of which present a scene picturesque
and beautiful. In passing between two of these islands,
the steamer struck, which caused some alarm among
the ladies : the jar however was not a very hard one,
and on examination the boat was found not to be inju-
red, as it was found to be a log over which the boat
had passed, which fortunately only jarred it enough to
upset the chairs, and throw several persons off their
feet who were standing at the time.

After passing those beautiful green islands, and sail-
ing down the majestic river St. Lawrence for several
hours, we landed at Brockville, in the Johnstown dis-
trict. The town is well laid out, contains fine dwel-
lings, and several elegant churches. The country in
rear of tlje town is rocky ; the farms are small and high-
ly cuhivated ; the land is very fertile in this district ;
wheat is produced of a very good quality, though not
so good, and to so great an extent as in the districts
westward. The town of Brockville is advantageously

1' \

1S8

i^iiNs or rnKhOott.

I i

situated on the St. Lawrence, and carries on some hu*
ness in the commercial line;

On sailing down the St. Lawrence from this place, I
found the scenery fine on both shores of the river, till
our boat run into the harbouf of Ogdensburg;) in the
State of New York, which is situated at the junction
of Oswegatchie river itith the St^ Latvfenee. This
city contains a population of 2526, and has very con-*
siderable trade, which passes down lake Ontario, the
river St. Lawrence, and from the western ^ate9tothi»
place. In addition to this, there is a communication
far into the fertile country, by the Oswegatchie rirer^
which is the outlet ot Black Lake. This city is famous
as being the place from which the sympathisers of New
York sallied forth, and embarked for Prescott, just on
the opposite shore of the St. Lawrence, cjluring tjhe trou-
bles and revolt in Canada, a few years ago, whose sad
fate is well known.

On the opposite side of the St. Lawrence stands the
town of Prescott, in ruins, except the gpeat windrmfU
which stands close by, which was not destroyed. This
place is celebi'a^ed for the capture of the New York
(Bympathisers and Canadian pevoltars, during those trour
bles. After they were defeated by the British troops,
they took shelter in this town, where it appears they
were beseiged and captured. Many of the houses were
stone, in the walls of which can be seen a number of
boles produced by the cannon shot from the roya}
troops, The walls of the great windrmill, however,
could not be broken. The town after the captuie, ac-?
cordingr to the mode of British warfare, was set pn fipe,

NEW YORK SYMPATHIbERS.

1<?9

\m->

The eastern district, so far as can be seen from the
river, contains very beautiful lands, which have the
appearance of being skilfully cultivated ; and the shores
of the St. Lawrence are lined with flourishing cities,
towns and villages, among which may be named Ma-
tilda and Moulinette ; while on the lefl bank, the last,
br among the last views we had of New York, were
the cities of Madrid and Lisbon, each with about 6000
inhabitants ; which little cities, though in their infan-
cy, yet in such a flourishing condition, that the proud
capitols of Spain and Portugal, whose names they bear,
have no occasion to be ashamed of them as their name-
sakes.

The farther we sailed down the St. Lawrence, the
more imposing, grand and picturesque became the sce-
nery ) and afler passing the Long Sault, we landed at
the city of Cornwall, a splendid town on the river. —
Here we remained several hours. At this place^ sev-
eral of the Canadians with whom I was in conversa-
tion} concerning the late troubles of the province, on
which they all would converse, in a kind and friendly
manner, except, however, that they complained that
the New York sympathisers were, as they thought, al-
lowed by the Governor of the State, with too much
impunity to take cannon out of a public arsenal and
invade a friendly territory, in time of peace, who they
contended poured in by thousands to aid the insurgents,
and whose intervention alone, rendered the rebellion
formidable for a time. The only answer I could make
to this complaint or charge was, that the Governor
could not have foreseen and provided against so sudden

^yj

■Hi

If'!

190

COTRAU OU LAC^.

a movement along so extensive a frontier , that neither
he nor the federal government had troops enough at
their command to act as a suilicient police, and that it
was too much to expect of them to maintain perma-
nently, a large standing army, for the sake of being
prepared for such rare emergencies, which they ac-
knowledged in part, and the matter dropped. These
were the only persons I heard assailing the Governor
of New York, or in anv wav blamins- the authorities
of the State in the matter, though spoken of in the wes-
tern districts frequently.

After leaving the city of Cornwall, we entered lake
St. Francis, and after passing through this lake the sce-
nery rapidly increases in grandeur j not only the sce-
nery on the land, but the beauty of the majestic river
itself. The scene was truly grand and imposing, in
sailing down the Coteau Du Lac and the Cascade Rap-
ids, which are nine miles in length ; and while passing
down these rapids, several of us stood on deck and
looking ahead we could see the rolling, dashing and
plunging of the mighty billows, which appeared im-
possible for the boat to pass through, without being
swallowed up. But our splendid steamer would ascend
and descend with the rolling billows, in awful gran-
deur, gliding up and down, somewhat resembling a bird
f)ying in the air, which I considered the richest and
most entertaining scene that I had witnessed, except
the great cataract.

The St. Lawrence, in its course from lake Ontario
to Montreal, has a wide extent of low ground on both
sides of it, a portion of which is rocky, but handsomely

SCENERY or THE ST. LAWRENCE.

191

being

and highly cultivated ; and as far as can be seen from
the river when sailing down it, the shores are densely
populated 5 which perhaps is not the case farther in the
Country. In many places I had opportunities of see-
ing far into the country, in which cases 1 satisfied my-
self that the country in those places at a considerable
distance from the river, were not so thickly settled as
was the case nearer the shore, where it appeared to be
almost one continuous village, from Lake Ontario to the
mouth of the Ottawa river.

The St* Lawrence, in its course from lake Ontario,
to the foot of the Cascade rapids above named, is said
to fall nearly 300 ieet, descending by a succession ol
rapids, ol which the above named ones are the most
prominent. Between these succession of rapids are the
lake-like expansions of the waters, which form those
beautiful lakes, one or two of which have been named,
whose transparent green waters present a very beauti-
ful appearance. Immediately below the abovenamed
rapid, we entered lake St. Louis, in sailing through
which, brought us to the city of La Chien, at the mouth
ol the Ottawa river.

i*M

t im »' i^'H '!■»■

\0t ]. K C4UEN*

CHAPTER XVI.

LOWBR CANADA.

La Chien — Approach of Montreal — French Lan^age — French
Porters — Ottawa Hotel-Montreal-Location-Montreal Moun-
tain — Cote de Neige — Prospect — Marine Shell — St Henri —
Goto St. Pierre — Trade- Wharves- St. Patrick Church-French
Cathedral — Towers — Banking-House — Provincial Capitol- •
Hall of Representatives — Rotundo — Paintings — Fortifications
— Desertion — Guard House — Nelson Monument — Streets —
Canadian Horses — Cab — Rapid gait of driving Horses — Scene
on the Wharves — Island of Montreal — High state of cultiva-
tion — Country Dwellings — Barns—Fences^Departure-Steam-
er Ldtd Sydenham.

The city of La Chien is situated below the junction
ol the Ottawa river with the St. Lawrence, which Hv-
er is navigable to the city of Bytown in the Ottawa
district, from which town boats take the great Rideau
canal, already noticed, which was constructed at a cost
of upvirards of $5,000,000, for the purpose of reaching
lake Ontario at Kingston 3 as the St. Lawrence cannot
be navigated up stream above the city of La Chien, ow-
ing to the succession of rapids already noticed. The
Ottawa river is the division line between Upptir and
Lower Canada, or as it is more properly called, East
and West Canada.

At the city of La Chien, I took the cars and passed
through 7 miles of very beautiful country, to the city
of Montreal. In passing through this region, and ap-
proaching Montreal, we seemed more like entering a
French province than a British one. The language
and costume of the peasant, and of the old beggars, the

ArrROAMi or Moj.riirAL.

193

pripsts with llicir brcviarii'j, the large crosses on the
public roads, with the symbols ol the crucifixion, the
architecture o( the houses, with their steep roofs, large
casemeiit windows, and lastly the great French Catho-
lic Cathedral, rising in state with its two loft}' towers
which seemed to pierce the clouds.

While thus passing Irom LaChien to Montreal, which
had so much the appearance of a French province, I
\V9S informed by an intelligent and kind Englishman,
that the French spoken in those provinces of the moth-
er country, is otten lar less correct, and less easy to fol-
low, than that of the Canadians, whose manners are
prepossessing, much softer, and more polite, than those
of their Anglo-Saxon fellow-countrymen, however su-
perior the latter may be in energy, and capability of
advancement. On arriving at the depot, and scarcely
had we stepped out of the car, before we were surround-
ed by a troop of porters from the hoteb, who Were
chiefly Frenchmen, holding in one hand their ticket',
in the other a carriage whip, and crying ^^Monsieur,
voulez-vous, avoir voiture ;" which words they would
repeat in such quick succession, attended v/ith such po-
liteness that it rendered the scene ' a stranger more
amusing than disgusting, which coulu not generally be
said of like scenes in eities in the United States ; owina
to the rudeness of the porters, who frequently rendered
a scene of this kind disf^ustin?; to a stranger. After
vvitnessing the diversion of the depot, I proceeded with
my polite Frenchmnn to the Ottawa llo'cl, on Great
St. James Street, ^^'h*^^e I found Ihe propnelcr, Ii!r..

George Mall, a kind and ho::pitab)" h'^st, r\rr rradv to
.0

■ B

•if

194

MONTREAL

give information, and entertain the strahijer as fur as iff
his power.

The city of Montreal contains a population of^O,-
134, and is very beautifully situated on Montreal Isl-
and, in the district named Montreal. The city stands
;it the base of a mountain rising abruptly from a broad
plain, where the valleys of the St. Lawrence and thr
Ottawa meet. This mountain is said to be 740 feet
high above the St. Lawrence. It terminates in two
summits, one considerably higher than the other, and
ij capped with a mass of greenstone which has beenr
found to be 80 feet thick. In the hollow between the
two eminences of this celebrated mountain, (s a place
called Cote-de-Neige, at a height of more than 500 feet
above the St. Lawreuce, where may be lound a patch
of gravel full of sea shells, which appears somewhat
strange at first sight, to find them at so great a height,
and causes one almost to suppose that this mountain
had risen up out of the great and majestic St. Lawrence.
Prom these summits the stranger has a very delightful
prospect of the Island of Montreal, and the great and
noted valley of the St. Lawrence, both up and down
thrj river ; and he has here an opportunity of beholding
vrilh (jj^light, that king of rivers rolling its beautiful
wateitj ill awful grandeur towards the ocean.

At the bas;i of the mountain on its eastern side, in
the suburbs of Montreal, we find clay and sand, in which
rnariau shells occur. This deposite forms a terraco
vv'hich endo ubruptly in a steep bank, lacing the river-
[nain.and running parallel with it ior three or fonr
ir:;!e?. If varies in height f-orr. 50 to 150 iec?t, abovf»

MoNT*iEAL Mountain.

103

the St. Lawrence. A good section ol this modern do-
posite is to bo seen at Tanneries, a village in the parish
of St. Henri, in the suburbs of Montreal, where exca-
vations had recently been made for a now road, i^xpo-
sing horizontal beds of loam and marly clay, in one of
which at a height of about 70 feet above the St. Law-
rence, I observed great numbers of muscle, the shells
•etatning both valves and their purple color.

About 4-0 feet above the section of the road above
.nentioned, and about 100 feet above the St. Lawrence,
it the Cote St. Pierre, also in the suburbs of Montreal,
tad near the houss of a Mr. Brodie, gravelly beds ap-
>ear in which shells are abundant, retaining both valves.
This terrace or shelf containing these remains, is inter-
sected here and there by deep narrow gullies, one of
.vhich terminates at the Tanneries. In the channels
jf the small streams draining these gullies, I found fos-
lil shells washed out of the clay and sand. Almost ev-
ery portion of this Island presents appearances ofbe»
ing once overflown.

The city of Mantreal is situated 180 miles above the
:ity of Quebec, by the river St. Lawrence ; is now the
capitol of Canada ; it is the centre ol the fur trade, of
the commerce with the United States, and is the largest
and most commercial city of British America. Its
wharves are excellent, being chiefly constructed of
ftone. The city contains many elegant buildings which
are chiefly constructed of stone. A large portion of
the buildings are covered with tin, which causes the
jcity to present a handsome appearance, more especial-
ly when viewed at a considerable distance.

196

I'RKN'CII CATHnPRAt.

I f

I ill

Tlio city nlso coiitaiiij a nuinbLT of very lar<;e and
splendid churches, whicli an* chiefly Catholic, the most
elegant ot which is the St. Patrick situated on comniand-
injy ground, and is of the most extravagant finish of a-
ny church I ever entered. Near the centre of the ci-
ty, at the head of Great St. Janies stn»ct, facing Notre
Dame, is situated the Air-famed French Cathedral, be-
ing of a pointed Gothic style of architecture, v/hich is
said to cover 7 acres of ground, and to the top of its
towers, nearly iWO feet. After entering this mighty
structure, I was amazed at its size, beinf^ much larget
than it appeared to be before entering it. Although
large and powerful as it is, I could not pursuade my-
self that it covered 7 acres of ground ; about one acre
was as much as I was willing to allow it, judging from
its oblong appearance, though having no way ol ascer-
taining by measurement.

This tremendous building is constructed of granite ;
its fronts face the north and south, and on each of the
corners of the west end, is constructed a tower of the
same materials ; the tops of these two towers are near-
ly 300 feet from the ground ; in the inside of each of
these towers is a circular staircase, by which the top
of the tower can be gained ; from this there is a delight-
ful view of the city and valley of the St. Lawrence,
although not so good as is the view from Montreal
mountain. In one of these towers there is a powerful
bell, at nearly 300 feet above the ground. The win-
dows of this edifice are between 30 and 40 feet high,
and their width in proportion. The interior of the
building is well finished, and presents a very elegant

PROVINCTAI. CAriTol..

197

appparaiicf. At (li«* west <»nd tliore is a powerful por-
ficrt, witli a ?imni)er of rna^vivo columtis. The fli)or Im
gained by 7 stono steps, oach of wliicli is about 100
feet long.

On the opposite, at the head of th(? same street, is
the Montreal Hiirdc, a very splendid frrariite edifice, with
a superb portico siippnrterl l>y S hiirhly polished (luted
columns, of very beautiful proportions.

The capitol i?* situated toward the eastern extremity
ofthecity, on the lowest ground in the city. Tt is
built of granite, and is a very splendid edifice, having
a rotundo in the centre, and two wings facing the St.
I^awrer^ce, which adorns its northeastern front. The
wingsare only two stories hi;.5h. The representative
halls are in the upper stories, which are very beauti-
fully ornamented ; and in addition to the windows they
are each lighted from the top by two small domes. —
The floors are covered with very handsome red carpets ;
the seats are cushioned and dressed with red velvet ;
immediately on the right and left of tlie Speaker's chair
is a lion facing the chair, and immediately above it is
suspended the British crown. Othi r portions of the
hall are ornamented with British emblems, and the hall
presented quite a gaudy and elegant appearance.

The rotundo is lighted by a large dome ; the floor is
also covered with red carpets ; the walls are adorned
with a number of very splendid paintings; the most
beautiful of which is a painting of George III, which
alone cost $6,500. Among the others I noticed the
Governor Generals of Canada, such as Sir Guy Carl-
ton, Sir J. Burgoyen, SirGeorj;e Prevost, &c. ; in ad-

' t

193

roHTiriOAi ION'S.

dirion to tlicie w^-re niatiy other military chardclers of
Canada ; a row of celebrated navigators, at the head of
which stood Sir lleary Hudson. The pwrson having
charge of the capitol is a pt^rff ct gentleman to all ap-
pearance, and takt^s a delight in showing and explain-
ing every pDrtioii of the building. This Englishman
on learning that I was a Virginian, appeared to be the
more delighted in entertaining and giving me such in-
formation as was consistent with his post, which I was
also h^ippy to witness in mmy of the citic?s of the Uni-
ted Slates, where I learned the high estimation in which
the S ale of Virgini:i is held by the States and cities
which surround her. — And here, entirely alone, a per-
fect stringer, and in the midst of a British province, I
also had opportunities oi witnessing new proofs of the
high pinnacle of esteem on which stands Virginia. I
therv.-fore as a matter of course, could not help feeling
my pridv* increasing, as being a native son ot Virginia,
and which caused me almost to attribute part of my
success to the same cause.

The next objects of attraction in Montreal, are the for-
tifications which protect the citv, where are lar?e bo-
dies of troops on duty, which appears to be the case in
all the forts of Canada since the revolt. I was inform-
ed by a gentlemm that the officers had an irksome task
to perform, in maintaining strict discipline in their
corps, and prevent the desertion of soldiers. A num-
ber of poor fellows I saw in the g'lard-houie and pris-
on, some to be punished by imprisonment for ten years
and some during their lives, while othori are condema*
ad and i^hol .

>ritLSON MOM'MBNT.

1!)9

In one of these fortifications, on high and command-
ing ground, is situated the Nelson Monument. It U a
column between 4tO and 50 feet in height. The col-
umn is placed on a pedestal about 8 feet high, and as
many feet square. On one face of the pedestal are in-
scripMons highly applauding the great hero of tLe na-
vy, the other faces contain appropriate emblems hand-
somely sculptured out of marble. On the top of the
column is. placed the statue of Lord Nelson, with hi:
face to the north, the forehead fractured or broken in
no doubt an imitation of the wound which caused his
<ieath, as the cavity in the forehead must have been
sculptured. The statue being composed of solid marble,
it could not possibly have been done by a blow.

The city contains several broad and handsome streets,
the principal one is Great St. James street. These ar«
blocked with square blocks of vi'ood one foot long, which
are placed on one end and neatly fitted together, which
makes a much smoother street than those paved with
fitone. The streets in the older portion of the city, are
chiefly narrow, crooked and dirty, but generally well
paved. Except several of the principal streets, the side
walks are narrovv, which renders it somewhat annoy-
ing to a stranger to pas3, as the walks rarely exue^jd

three feet in width.

In this city, on the evening of the 25th of May, I re-
ceived the news by some of the New York papers, of
the nomination of Gens. Cass and Butler, as candidates
for the Presidency and Vice Presidency ; which was
only three days after the meeting of the delegates of
ibe Biltimorj Convention. The newa was conveyed

'i '"^

t if I

< h

^ou

HOlls^KS — POiVrHT>".

by telegraph to some of the citi(»s on the iVontier of
New York, from which it had time to reach Montreal
by the evening above named.

Canada is celebrated for its excellent breeds of hor-
ses. The Canadian horse is truly a noble animal. J
had seen and admired many of these excellent horses by
the time I arrived at Montreal, where they appeared to
increase in beauty and size, and I did not see an indif-
ferent horse in all the city. In this great metropolis,
the draught horse is particularly worthy of notice. —
They are large, active and handsome, possessing great
power and strength. Scare always driven by the French,
who always make the horse trot at the top of his speed.
The riding vehicle is a cab or caliash, in each of which
there is only one horse, as omnibusses and carriages are
rarely seen in the city. T was considerably amused on
several occasions, while sitting in my cab, as the little
Frenchman would drive with such impetuosity, that I
thought he certainly would drive down every thing be-
fore him ; and every now and then he would blate out
at the top of his lungs, the words "ho, la I" at which
words his horse would spring to it again with increased
rapidity, until he would become so completely crowd-
ed and wedged up in the streets among the cabs and
drays, as to compel him to stop ; and no sooner tTian
there was again room to pass, I would hear the wordsi
"ho, la !" and find my cab passing over the ground with
as much impetuosity as the ancient with his war char-
iot. While standing on a higjh bank above one of the

CI w>

wharves, which banks are walled up with rock from
40 to 50 feet high, on the lower and upper sides ofth^

»1!L.

corxTiiY n'jiLDiM<:;s — !'!• .\ci:s.

201

Iroads, which are cut obliquely down the banks to tlie
wharves, and which are always crowded with carts
and drays ; and while looking leisurely on the scene
on the wharves and the roads leading from them, I saw
ahorse and cart of sand fall over the wall, down the
bank about 30 feet high, on the plank ftoor of the wharf,
and 1 was not a little surprised to see them get up the
horse and cart, again load the sand and drive off as if
nothing had happened. This accident occurred through
the driver neglecting to be with his horse.

The lands on the island of Montreal are very fertile,
and highly and skilfully cultivated. The farms are
small, the low lands are well drained, deeply plowed
and well pulverized, and have more the appearance of
a garden than a cornfield. The houses in the country
are generally small, with steep roofs ; the barns and
stables are large, so as to contain all the fodder and
beasts, as neither are allowed to remain out during the
severe winters. The fences about the buildings are
constructed of plank, which with the buildings are
whitened, the whole making quite a handsome appear-
ance. The remainder of the fences are made of cedar
posts or stakes, pointed and driven in the ground close
enough together to prevent hogs from creeping through.
This forms a fence about 4 feet high, and within mne
inches of the top, there is a lath or pole secured against
each side by pins or withs, and on each side is thrown
up a bank of earth, between 15 and 18 inches high, to
prevent their raising by the action of the frost ; and the
ditch thereby made affords a drain.

Afler remaining several days in Montreal, I took

202

LAKE 5T. rKTKn.

p;i»sage on hoar.l the largt? aovl spioaJid sic'ainbo^t Lori!
Sydenham, and sailed for the city of Quebec, 180 miles
down the St. Lawrence, where I found the mass of th*»
population settled in the valley of the St. Lawrence.
Here a person is at no time out of sight of half a dozen
dwellings, the most of which are whitened and neatly
arranged, and when viewed from our excellent boat,
while plowing the waves of the great and majestic riv-
er, they presented a very flourishing and handsome ap-
pearance.

CHAPTER XVII.

Lake St. Peter— Alluvial flats— City of Three Rivers— Citio*
and Towns—Approach of Quebec — Point Levi — Cape Dia-
mond — Island of Orleans — River St. Lawrence — Harbour —
Quebec — Albion Hotel — Walls of the city — Houses— Streets
—Beggars — French Guide — Permit — ApiH>oach to the Cita-
del — Redoubts — Entrance into the Citadel — British Officer —
£ast Wall — Impressions ofcannou'shot — Height of the Cita-
del above the St. Lawrence — West Wall — Battery— Plains of
Abraham — North Wall— South Wall — Arsenal— Magnificent
view — Grand Scenery — Strength of Quebec — Well of Water
— Barracks — Scotch Soldiers — Singular Dress — Coldness of
the weather — Guard House — Secret Redoubt-~-Height8of A-
braham — Ascent of Wolf— Strange incidents connected with
this affair— Battle-ground— Woirs Monumtnt— Teams of Dogs
— Governor's Garden — Monument.

At the mouth of the river Sorelle commences lake
St. Peter. The St. Lawrence here expands into a lake,
bounded by low alluvial flats, which are sometimes sfev-
Btal miles broad. These fiats are in turn bounded by i

<1TIE3 AND T0\rN3.

203

steep bank of tarid drift about -tO fe«t high. In sailiug
through this beautiful lake, with the handsome alluvial
flats bounded in the distance by gteep high banks, af-
fords to the stranger a rich scene to behold. Immedi-
ately belovV the mouth of the la\p, is situated the city
of the Three Rivets, which is located on the north bank
of the St. Lawrence, on its south bank opposite the ci-
ty the St. Francis river and the Ramaska river form a
junction with the same, auJ jast below the city the
river St. Maurice also empties into the St. Lawrence,
which give rise to the name of the town, which is next
in importance to Montreal and Quebec.

The city of the Three Rivers is well situated for
trade, in which it is considerably engaged. It is loca-
ted in the centre oi the Three River district. By the
time I arrived at this place, I had passed many flour-
ishing cities and towns immediately on the banks of
the St, Lawrence ; among which may. be named, Lon-
«quil, Trembles, Vercheres, V AsjSpmptipi>,. St. Sudpice,
Contre Cour, La Valtrie, La Norave, Wm. Henrv and
Berthier, in Montreal district, and Port du Lac, in the
Three River distriiCt. After remaining in the town ot
the Three Rivers several hours, we again sailed for
Quebec, and passed the cities of Rockelau, Champlain
and St. Pierre, wl^en we arrived at the line of the Que-
bec district, in which we passed St. Anne, and Lotbi-
enire, soon after which we arrived at the lar-famed
city of Quebec!

The city can be seen at a considerabh? distance, ow-
ing to its great height. Th* St. Lawrence at thii
place is wedged into a narrow channel between a ^uai^

Hit

204

Q U L U E C .

lii'

' ',ti

'<•}

ter and a half mile wide, by a high point olland on
the south bank called Point Levi, and Cape Diamond,
on the north bank, extending a considerable distance
into the St. Lawrence, This towering Cape is 35l)
feet high, and is crowned with the celebrated Citadel,
which is pronounced the Gibralter oi America. The
St. Lawrence after passing this cape, turns immediate-
ly to the left, expands its waters and embosoms the isl-
and of Orleans just below the cape. The river after
passing the cape, forms an excellent harbour on the
northeast of the city, which is under the immediate
range of the guns of the forts. On the east and south
no landing can be eflected, owing to the steepness and
height of the rock.

The city contains a population of 30,357 ; it is divi-
ded into two parts called upper and lower city. The
lower city is regularly laid out and neatly built since
the great fire of 184.3, when it was entirely destroyed.
It is now handsomely built, being covered with tin and
slate, as wood is prohibited. This portion of the city
contains such manufactories as are here carried on.

After landing, I proceeded through the lower into
the upper city, to the Albion hotel, near the centre of
the city. This part of Quebec is fenced by a high and
powerful stone wall. The buildings are nearly all stone,
but large and well built ; the ttone are of a rough, grey
species; the roofs are of tiles or slate ; the streets are
crooked, narrow and very roughly paved, and gener-
ally very dirty ; the side-walks only from two to three
feet wide ; and at a|/nost every corner sits i beggar,
with his arras extended, imploring alms, and many of

i'4-.

ArrROACII TO THK CITADEf..

20.5

tfiem blind, sitting at tlie corners of these narrow side-
walks, who on hearing the footstepsof a person, would
extend their arms and in the most pitiful tones inDplore
alms. For a moment I was struck with surprise ; I
could scarcely believe that I was walking the streets
of far-famed Quebec, under the control of proud and
haughty England ; but yes, they were the streets of
Quebec, and those troops of beggars which annoyed me
on every hand, are the beggars of the same proud and
haughty nation.

I h^re hired horse, calaish and driver, whom I was
compelled to pay the sum of two dollars and fifty cents
per day, and pay the tolls on all the ferries, bridges
and gates. It is true tiiis was a high fee, but the best
I could do, and which I did not regret, as my little
Frenchman was quite intelligent and entertaining. —
At 8 o'clock in the morning, at the appointed hour, I
applied to the commander-in-chief of the forces ofLow-
er Canada, at his residence in the city, for a permit to
enter the citadel and fortifications of Quebec, which I
readily received ; and found this great military charac-
ter, a man to all appearance a perfect gentleman. I
then proceeded with my guide to the first barrier on
the side towards the Heights of Abraham, where we
were hailed by the sentinel, who demanded to know if
we had a permit, to which I answered in the affirma-
tive, and was permitted to pass. This demand was re-
peated at the second and third barriers, and the same
answer given. When we arrived at the fourth or chief
wall, immediately within the gate a platoon of soldiers
were drawn up, who kept us at bay till the commt^n-

500

IrORTlFlC-VflON^J.

* I

der of the garrison stepped up and received our pasi»
and ordered a commissioned officer to attend us through
the fortifications, at which order the platoon wheeled
and cleared the gateway*

I was delighted to find this officer a perfect gentle-»
man, who appeared to take great delight m showing me
the great strength of their fortifications. The wall
next the east precipice is only about 9 feet thick, con-
structed of very large grey stone, on which 1 was shown
small impressions made by cannon shot, which the of-
ficer informed me were made with the heaviest guns
they possessed, which were placed on one occasion on
ships, and floated to a convenient distance in the St.
Lawrence and discharged upon the Wall, fot the pur-
pose of ascertaining what impression they would have
upon the same; On another occasion they were pla-
ced on the ice when the rivei* was frozen, and discharg-
ed foi' the purpose of ascertaining the same fact* This
experiment was performed no doubt for the purpose of
getting the impression abroad that the walls could not
be effectually reached, even with the heaviest guns ;
and if the object was to circulate that impression, it is
perhaps a correct one, judging from the thickness of
the wall, and its foundation being the enormous height
of 356 feet above the surface of the St. Lawrence.

The main walls on ihe west, next the plains of A-
braham, are between 70 and 80 feet thick, though not
wholly constructed of stone, as it has the appearance
of being two thick walls and the middle filled up with
earth ; on the top of this great wall there is a very beau-
tiful sward, which is also the case on the tops of all the

Sk.

BATTEniEfl k. WALLS.

507

barriers. In rear of the guns placed in the main wall,
there is a third wall, which is arched over and joins the
front wall, thereby forming a sheltered passage to pro-
tect the guns and soldiers from the tempests of these
cold and tefrible regions ; thus the main wall of the
citadel in that direction, may be properly said to con-
sist of three walls at the bottom, uniting at the ton and
forming one wall of the thickness abovenamed, and a-
bout 20 feet in height.

The battery in the wall consists of heavy guns which
with theredoubtsin front, rake every inch of ground on
thecelebratedplainsofAbrahamjWhichslopegentlyfrom
the first redoubt downward lor several miles ; and ow-
ing to the heisiht of the rock on which the fortificationa
stand, which rises abruptly from the redoubt, so that
the whole of the batteries caa play on the plains at the
same time without interfering with each other, the shot
of the upper ones passing over the lower ones, and thus
80 completely raking every inch of this far-famed
height, that it would be impossible for a storming par-
ty to advance from that direction.

On the north of the citadel, on a portion of the same
rock, is situated the upper city j though lower than the
citadel, so that the batteries in that direction can range
above the top of the city, so that they can aid the bat-
teries in the lower city in defending the grounds to-
wards the town of Beaufort and the river Montmoren-
cy. In this direction in the lower city, can be seen
the redoubts assaulted by the noble and heroic Mont-
gomery, during the revolutionary war. In this direc-
tion a storming army would have to take possession of

(■>*'

i^l

208

PROSPKCT FlluM THE ( ITAbKI..

■**,

all the forfications of the lower city, pass up througli
it, and scale the walla ot the upper city in the very
face of a mighty battery, before they could assault the
citadel. On the south and east is the St. Lawrence,
and the banks of the cape, which as before named are
356 feet high. The east wall was first given as being

o on

9 feet thick : the south wall is a little thicker, owing to
its fronting a high point of land on the south bank ol
the St. Lawrence called Point Levi, about 100 feet
high, and being onl}' between a quarter and a half milo
distant. The guns of the citadel are so arranged as to
rake every inch of this point, so that it would be im-
possible for an army to get possession and I'ortify that
point.

In the centre of the citadel, is situated a very strong
and powerful building, containing the magazines. This
cannot be reached from any point without the walls of
the citadel, owing to the size of the fortification, the
height of the walls and its great elevation above all the
surrounding country ; so that this magazine stands se-
Aire from shot, from whatever direction they may come,
until a breach is effected in the walls of the fortificar
lion, because otherwise after the shot passes over the
top of the wall, it must also pass far above the top of
the building ; and owing to its great strength, and be-
ing entirely fire-proof, it cannot be effected by shell.

The top of this building is the highest point that can
be gained on the far-famed rock of Quebec ; on this is
placed the British flag, waving in all the pride of the
British nation. I ascended to the top of this building,
and under the folds of the British flag, I viewed with

SfJOTPIl SOI.DIKUs;,

200

astonish m<*nt one of the most spleiuHd prospects in tlie
world. The country far and wide decorated with towns
and villaores, and striped with little streams, pouring
their sparkling waters into the great and majestic St.
Jjawrence, whose broad white waves are rendered ten-
fold more imposing and sublime by the rays of the me-
ridian sun, while they are rolling onward and onward
to the mighty gulf of St. Lawrence.

Imposing indeed were my feelings, while mounted
on the highest pinnacle of the magazine, which crown-
ed the mighty rock of Quebec, and viewing under the
folds of the British flag, the celebrated Gibralter of A-
merica, which is the great key by which the British
hold their power in America. And here, from this
towering pinnacle, I convinced myself of the fallacy
of an army to attempt taking these great fortifications,
other than by a regular seige. Though having no claims
to scientific warfare, I satisfied myself that I would be
safe in advancing that the citadel of Quebec would
never be taken by storm, so long as the garrison remain-
ed true to their trust.

Near the building which contains the magazine there
is a well of excellent water, which truly is of itself a
curiosity, when considering the solidity and amazing
height of the rock out of which it is hewn. Immedi-
ately under the west wall are the barracks of the sol-
diers, all of stone ; in a word, the whole of this great
fortification is fire-proof. Here I had the pleasure of
seeing a portion of the Scotch regiment, sent into Canr
ada after the insurrection and troubles a few years ago.
The uniform of this regiment is truly very singular af-

11'

mi:

■.it;

210

CUAKD-HOUSR.

ter the 25lli of May, which continues to be worn till
the aj-proach of cold weather. This dress consists ot'n
red hunting-shirt, with the waist girdled by a bhck
leather belt ; the pantaloons white, extending no far-
ther down than within three inches of the knee; awhile
stocking extendinj]: to the knee, supported by a red gar-
ter, the end of which is handsomely fringed and tied in
a bow-knot, over which the top of the stocking is turn-
ed, the end of the garter hanging within nine inches of
the ground ; and on the foot a low quartered shoe. The
leg between the top of the stocking and the pantaloons,
is entirely bare for three inches above and three inches
below the knee.

When I first saw this singular corps leave the bar-
racks for the purpose of training, I was perfectly aston-
ished, not only considering the strange and disgusting
mode of their uniform, but also the coldness of the wea-
ther. I at first could scarcely believe mv own sio-ht,
as I had on a great box-coat, well buttoned up, and did
not feel any thing more than comfortable at that, and
these n;ien could walk and stand about in that condition,
on this celebrated rock, which is one of the highest and
coldest in all Canada, with as much comfort apparent-
ly as I did.

The guard-house presented an object of pity. Here
were confined a number of soldiers, chiefly for deser-
tion, who are here punished in various ways, owing to
the dignity of the crime the}' committed. Some of these
poor wretches are compelled to linger out all the re-
mairHer of their days in this miserable prison; some
are released after ten years confmement ; othej-s after

su:

ncronTs or abraiiam.

211

receiving various corporeal puniahmenti aud but one or
two years confinement are released ; while still anoth-
er class are condemne 1 and shot.

Between the upprr cit^ aid the north wall of the
citadel, and iniii ^diately on the outside and beneath the
battery, I discovered a kind of secret redoubt, where
some workmen were making alterations, which wasall
that I had time to see ; for no sooner than the officer
who attended me, discovered that my attention was
drawn to that spot, he kindly informed mo he was not
•uffered to allow me to inspect that place ;and of course
I immediately withdrew from the spot. We next vis-
ited the redoubts towards the plains of Abraham, and
such other objects worth}' of notice therewith connect-
ed> after which we returned to the officers' barracks,
where my kind officer entertained me till the arrival of
my French guide, when a cordial shake of the hand
parted us, and I mounted my caliash and started for the
plains ol Abraham.

These memorable Heights are situated on the west of
the fortifications, and with the exception of a small
hollow or sink, the plain slopes p^radually from the first
redoubt westward about one and a hall miles, where
there is a hollow running into the St. Lawrence, up
which hollow Gen. Woif conducted his army by climb-
ing up the rocks and roots, which w^as truly a rugged
path for an army to pass up. There appears to be
something strange connected with this affair; for we
are informed that Gen. Wolf, the commander-in-chief
of the British army, had established his head-quarters
en the island of Orleans, which is an island in the St.

R<; (Ml
I I''

* mi

1 • * w

■;

212

WOLr's CAPTUllE OP Ql'LBKC.

I^v^rence, commencincT about two miles below Que-
bec, from whence all his movements proceeded ; and
owing to the vigilance and daring of Gen. Montcalm,
the French commander-in-chief, all his plans were baf-
fled and defeated, till disappointment, fatigue and watch-
ing caused Wolf to fall violently sick, and on his sick-
bed he conceived the bold design of transporting his
troops up the St. Lawrence, which he accordingly did
as soon as he recovered from his sickness. How he
transported his troops up the strong current of the St.
Lawrence, in a manner under the guns of the great cit-
adel, and passed all the sentinels posted up the river,
without the knowledge of either, is a mystery to me.
It is true the British had possession of the south bank of
the river, and of course the French could not post sen-
tinels there, to watch the movements of the enemy
and give the alarm ; but so far as I am capable of judg-
ing, the narowness of the river at this place, and the
rapidity of the current, would in my opinion render it
impossible for such a fleet to pass up without being dis-
covered.

But we ^re informed that Wolf effected this object,
and passed nine miles above the city, where he learn^
ed by a deserter, that Gen. Bougainville was stationed
above him on the St. Lawrence, the names of the reg-
iments he commanded, and that the garrison at Quebec
expected provisions from that General. After having
ascertained those particulars, he left his ships one hour
after midnight, on the 12th of September, 1759, and
in boats silently dropped down the river in search ofa
landing, till they \yere hailed by one of the French

-1

111!

WOLF*i CAPTUIIE OF C^UEBEC.

213

below Que-
leeded ; and

Montcalm,
.ns were bal-
; and watch-
on his sick-
sporting his
Drdingly did
!. How he
it of the St.
he great cit-
> the river,
ery to me.
Duth bank of
lot post sen-

the enemy
.ble ofjudg-
e, and the
on render it
jt being dis-

this object,
'e he learn^
as stationed

of the reg-
1 at Quebec
fter having
ps one hour

1759, and

search of a
he French

sentinels posted along the shore, who cliallenged him
in the customary military language of the French, "9MI
ri//" (who goes there?) to which an English captain
who was familiar with the French 'rrguage, promptly
replied, "/a France ;" when the sentinel demanded^
^^quel regiment ?" (to what regiment 1) the answer he
received was "Je la Reine,^^ (the Queen's). The sen-
tinel immediately replied, ^'passej^^ at oiice concluding
that this was the convoy of provisions expected frorri
Gen. Bougainville.

The other sentinels were deceived in a similar man-
ner, which at once shows that they were ignorant of
the fact of the British being up the river, because they
could not rationally expect a convoy ot provisions to
pass down the river, when the British were blockading
the St. Lawrence with hundreds of their boats and ships.
Owing to the height and steepness of the precipice,
the fifst sentinel posted on the plain was considerably
above the hollow or ravine, and thertlore the last sen-
tinel to hail the British as they floated down the cur-
rent* The answers he received not being altogether
satisfactory, he called out, ^^Pourquois est ce que vous
ns parlez plus haut ?" (why dont you speak louder?) —
The answer he received was, "Tais toi, nous serons cn-
tendus.^' (Hush, we shall beoverheard and discovered.)
As the British had possession of the opposite side of the
river this answer also deceived this sentinel, and Wolf
papsed and landed his troops on a small footing of sand
washed there by the water which sometimes run down
the ravine, and then crawled up the precipice by cling-
mg to the angles of rocks, roots, Stc.

' H

'HP

I:;!:
I J

> ii

WOLF*B JlONXmtJft.

The great battle took place within about three quar*
ten oi a mile of the citadel. Here is a small hollow
br basin, into which a portion of the British were driv-
en in confusion, and here Wolf, in restoring order, lost
his llife, and about the same time Montcalm j on the ex-
treme fight of the French line, and nearer the upjpef
city also fell, \Vhile gallantly hurling his countrymen
on the British invader. In the hollow or basin on the
spot where Wolf fell, there is a monument ; this con-
sists of a round granite shafl, about 15 feet high, sup^
ported by a pedestal about 2 leet high and 4 feet square ;
the iron railing which formerly protected it is now bro-
ken down, and the monument very much defaced ; the
icorners being knocked off no doubt by travellers, and
the pieces carried away. It was with considerable
difficulty that I knocked off a small piece of this mon-
ument, so tattered and broken are the corners. It ap*-
peared somewhat strange to me, to find so handsome a
monument as this must have been, in such a ruinous
and disfigured condition ; it too erected to commemo-
rate to succeeding generations the great altar on which
was offered the heroic Wolf; the costliest sacrifice that
Great Britain had to offer.

This memorable heio;ht is used as a common bv the
city. It is however not enclosed, but just left careless*
ly lying out, on which stock are running at large. A-t
•d distance of about a mile from the citadel, it yet re-
mains a forest ; between this and the city I saw a troop
of boys engaged in drawing firewood with teams of
dogs- From three to four large and beautiful dogs were
harnessed in a small wagon made for the purpose; the

>1l

GOVERNOR'S GAUDty.

5i:j

hree quar-
ill hollow
were driv-
order, lost
on the ex-
the uppei
ountryraea
asin on the
this con-
high, 8Up^
eet square ;
is now bro-
?faced; the
ellers, and
onsiderable
'this mon-
srs. It ap*-
landsome a
a ruinous
commemo-
ir on which
Lcrifice that

non bv the
;ft careless-

: large. A^
, it yet re-
law a troop
;h teams of
Idogs werfi
jrposej the

number of teams and the noise of the French boys as
they passed slowly up the gentle sloping height, was a
novelty which was to me for a few minutes interest-
ing. It surprised me to see the quantity of wood three
or four of these dop-s could draw ; there beino; three or
four times as much as a strong man could possibly pile
and haul on a common wheel-barrow.

We now returned to the upper city, and visited the
Governor's Garden. Here are buried Wolf and Mont-
calm, in one grave ; though one the commander-in-chief
of the British, and the other of the French armies. 0-
ver this grave is erected a splendid marble monument,
about 25 feet high.' The pedestal on which it stands is
about 10 feet square and 2 feet high, and for 12 feet
up the monument is square, having a face of about 6
feet. On the top of this is an obelisk terminating in a
point. The north face of the monument contains the
inscriptions of Montcalm and the south face those of
Wolf; the heroes lying with their feet to the west in-
stead of the east. This garden contains a choice selec-
tion of shrubbery, all well arranged, which were in the
state of budding ; and no doubt when in flower they
make quite a beautiful appearance. A lofly, strong
and handsome iron fpnce encloses the garden.

t,!tM

i!l

wMl

■'^m

i '

216 CATjlUDflAL.

C 11 A P T E R X V 1 II .

Cathedral — Wealth of the Catholic Church — Seminary Chapel
—Romanism — Catholic Processions — Remark-Indian Lorette
find Nunnery — Grand Battery — Death of Montgomery — San-
tau Matelot — Historical Sketch — Surrender of the Americans
— Anecdotes of the French — Theatres.

The Cathedral is a large, strong stone building, the
walls of which present no beauty. The first object
that presents itself on entering the cathedral is the al-
tar; it is made of highly wrought and highly polished
silver, and covered with a profusion of ornaments of
great value. On each side of this altar runs a balus-
trade, enclosing a space of about six feet wide, of con-
siderable length and about four feet high ; the handrail
from six to eight inches wide ; on the top of this hand-
rail at a distance of about six feet apart, are images of
saints, beautifully wrought and about eighteen inches
high. As you walk through the building, on eithtr
side there are different apartments, all filled from the
floor to the ceiling with paintings, statues, vases, huge
candlesticks, waiters, and a thousand other articles of
great value. I learned from m}^ guide, who was him-
self a Catholic, that this was the every day display of
articles of least value ; the more costly being stored a-
way in chests and closets. It would be the wildest and
niost random conjecture to Uttempt an estimate of the
amount of precious metals thus withdrawn by the Cath-
olic Church from the useful purposes of the currency
of the world, and wasted in what may be called barba-
ric ornaments, as incompatible with good taste as (hey

'iMim

SEMINARY CHaPCL.

217

are with the humility which was the moat striking fea-
ture in the character of the founder of our rcHfiion ;
whose chosen instruments were the low and humble,
and who himself regarded as the highe^it evidence of
his divine mission, the iaot that to the poor the gospel
was [)reached.

The Seminary Chapel, under the direction of the Cath-
olics, is a larg6 stone structure. On entering, I found
it as well as the Cathedral, to be filled with paintings,
statues, vases, candlesticks, &,c. This institution has a
number of pupils-. We entered during the intermission,
about I o'clock ; in about an hour the pupils commen-
ced entering the Chapel at intervals of about half a min-
ute between the entering of each ; and the moment they
arrived within the door they bowed to the cross and
kneeled, and for a moment seemed to be engaged in
prayer. The cross was situated at the west end of the
Chapel : on it was nailed a large gilt statue represent-
ing Christ upon the cross.

The native population of Lower Canada being Ro-
man Catholic, therefore in Quebec the frequent ring-
ing of bells every day is peculiar. The number of
priests and monks in the city is astonishing. They are
known by their dress, and you will meet one or two of
them in every street iti Quebec, go what course you
will. Such a numerous priesthood of the kind, mubt
hold a stroDji:, and ia some respects an unfavorable in-
fliuence over the people. Where llomanism holds the
ascendancy, I believe general education is never pro-
moted. This misfortune is very generally seen in Cana-
da, lor the coinnion r!u<-, hiivc \ erv Uttlr or no education
10

) ■;

■J'!"

) -iW 'I

;^i

.i"

CIS

CATrtOLic rRoce^sfof^i/

I :ili

"^vbatever. Like all Catholic regions, religious holy-
days and processions are numerous in Quebec : some ol
which are attended by the greater part of the elergy oi
llie province, with the distinctive banners of their or-
der, and their own peculiar dress. The train may be
seen leaving the Cathedral a little before sunset ; the
priests and friars walking in file on each side of the
street, with huge lighted wax tapers in their hands, and
chanting as they follow the statues which are carried
before them at equal distances in the procession. The
statues or images are generally of a large size, and rep-
resent the various sufferings of the Saviour, until he is
laid in the sepulchre j which is a splendid canopy, tas-
selated with gold, having a figure large s» life stretch-
ed beneath them ; the rear is generally brought up by
persons covered in white or black garments, with eye-
holes to see through; dragging at their feet chains of
different lengths and diYnensions. This is a penance
which these poor victims of c^dulity inflict upon them-
selves for the commission of somfe offence, or the ful-
filment of a vow thev had made in the time of afflic-
tion. It is not unfrequent to see the ankles of some of
these persons very much lacerated and bleeding by
the weight of the chains they drag behind them. After
traversing several streets, the procession returns to the
church from whence it came out.

Some persons may call all this perfect mummery ;
but I trust that I am neither so bigoted nor prejudiced
as to believe that there is any Christia^^' * r.urch, w;iat-
ever may be its forms of faith or worship, which doe3
;iot number amongst its members men as good and vir-

■I

MON rooMKilv's ASSAULT UPON C^LEUKC.

219

3US holy-
; : some o<
J elergy oi
their or-
n may be
nwet ; the
le of the
lands, and
re carried
ion. The
►, and rep-
until he is
inopy, tas-
'e stretch-
ght up by
with eye-
chains of

penance
pon them-
>r the ful-

of afflic-
of some of
eding by
m. After
urns to the

lummery ;
prejudiced
rch, waat-
k^hich doe3
kI and \ir-

taous, as those whose religious opinions conform to my
own. I quarrel with no man for his religious opinions,
but I have a right to discuss them, and to describe the
rites and ceremonies as they are displayed to the gaze
of all. No one I presume can doubt the sincerity of
the professors of a religion, so many heroic martyrs of
which have perished at the stake, and which for so long
a time was the only Christian church, and even now
can boast of a larger number than all other Christian
sects united. I believe that they are at least as sincere
in the great cardinal principles of their faith as the
protestants are, that is, the great body of the church.
This much however cannot be said of the priests.

The next objects worthy of the stranger's notice are
the Indian Lorette and Nunnerv. The latter contains
a number of nuns. It appears truly astonishing that in-
telligent persons should thus seclude themselves from
their friends, society and the world, to linger out their
days in such a manner. Many of these women have
the appearance of being once handsome, gay and intel-
ligent. The building they occupy is about 150 feet
long and 30 feet wide, constructed of a species of grey
•tone, two stories high, with very small windows.

I now made my way to the Grand Battery, in th'e
lower city ; which fortification forms a portion of the
defence of the lower city ; which battery, with many
of its auxiliaries, can be if necessary, aided by the north
batteries of the citadel, by ranging over the upper and
lower cities. Near this place are the redoubts assault*
ed by Gens. Montgomery and Arnold during the revo-
lution. The one assaulted by Montgomery was near

:M«

220

santau matklot.

i
1

the St. Lawrence, where on the 31st of December,
1775, after roundii^^ the promontory or Cape Diamond,
they stumblei upi:\ \vax^ misses of ice thrown up by
the river, wliich hh soldiers had to remove amidst a
terrible storm of snow, before he couhl advance upon
the redoubt ; when with his sword waving over his head
he rushed forward, shouting his heroes to the charge,
and rushing up to the very mouths of the cannon, when
they opened in their very faces; and when the smoke
lilted, there lay the lifeless form of the noble Montgom-
ery almost under the wheels of the artillery. The col-
umn no longer having a gallant leader at its head,
"broke and lied. The distinguished aid Capt. M'Pher-
son, with Capt. Cheeseman, in attempting to bear olf
their lifeless General, lost their lives, after which young
Burr, -i.erwards Vice President of the United States,
lifted the body on his shoulders and endeavored to bear
it off; but was compelled to abandon it to the enemy.
The storm still raged in all its fury, and all along the
way where the column had passed, were strewn corps-
es } many of them now became mere hillocks of snow ;
ihe rapidly falling flakes had blotted out the stain of
blood, and already wrapped a shroud around the brave
Idead. • '• ■■'

Farther west was situated the place called Santau
Matelot, which Gen. Arnold attempted to storm. Up
to this he moved with aii intrepid step, cheering on his
men, when a musket-ball struck his leg*, shattering
the bone ; he fell forward in the snow ; then by a strong
effort rose again, and endeavored still to press on ; and
it is said it was with the utmost difficulty he could be

AXKCDOTK-^ or TUl-: FKLNCJi.

ecember,
Diamond,
'11 up bv

amiilst a
nee upon
r his head
e charge,
ion, when
he smoke
^lontfi-om-

The col-
its head,
. M'Pher-
bear off
ich young
ed States,
•ed to bear
le enemy,
ilong the
wn corps-

of snow ;
e stain of

the brave

ed Santau
orm. Up
ring on his
shattering
Dy a strong
ss on ; and
c could be

per

juaded to be carried to the rear. The command

then devolved on Morgan, who fell with such terrible
fury on thi* bittery, that iUv ih-iti:ih fiod, leaving it in
his possession. Daylight had not yet dawned, nothing
had been heard from Montgomery ; and the snuw kept
falling in an overwlielming shower and blowing furi-
ouslv in the soldi^»^>5 faces; cin<;e by was a second bar-
rier, protected by a battery, which opened upon him.
the moment they turned the angle of the street. This
sallinr^ fire cut them down like grass : they fled into
the houses for shelter, leaving the intrepid Morgan in
the street shouting to them to return ; but all his words
and p-^rsonal daring could not revive their courage ;
and his brave heart sunk within him, when compelled
to order a retreat to be sounded. }3ut his troops, now
thorou3:hlv disheartened, would not venture out asrain
into the deadly fire, even to retreat ; and Morgan soon
found himself surrounded by the enemy and compelled
to surrender.

After viewing from Santau Matelot the surrounding
scenery, including the citadel and fortifications crown-
ing the precipitous heights which overhang the St.
Lawrence, we repaired to the harbour, where the broad
and deep river was enlivened by a variety of shipping.
While engaged in examining some of the splendid steam-
ers, we were told some very amusing anecdotes by the
British, of the superstitious horror of the old Canadians
at the new inventions and innovations of the anglo-A-
mericans; that they beheld the first steamers with such
extreme jealousy as to have exclaimed, when they saw
them ascend the St. Lawrence, ^LMais croyez vouz que

■H'-,

./fcl

■.u-Wit

t-M

T II K A T n K ^ .

le bon Dieu perrmttra tout c«/«." The traveller during
his tour through Lower Canada, may frequently hear
anecdotes told on the French Canadians by the British
settlers, which are SDmetimes accompanied with such
bitter sarcasm, as to draw the mind of the stranger to
the old story of the American, who siid that if the U-
nited Slates ever got possession of Canada, they would
soon improve the French off the face of the earth. The
late Lord Sydenham has been viewed by the French
party with great jealousy, in this respect ; they speak
as if they really believed him capable of conceiving and
executing such a project. This is a delusion which is
no doubt strengthened by the British settl rs, who praise
his zeal, habits of business, and devotedneds to the in-
terests of Canada; and so ultra are some of his admi-
rers, that one of them, who being so deeply imbued
with the spirit of his policy, as to declare in the pres-
ence of the French party, "we shall never make any
thing of Canada until we ang-ucize and protestantize
it ;" at which declaration, the lips of the French Cath-
olics could be seen quivering with rage, and an old
grey-headed Frence seigneur immediately rejoined
with bitterness, "had you not better finish Ireland first?"
The Theatres of Quebec, though on rather a small
scale, attract attention. The buildings are in no wise
distinguished for the beauty of their agriculture ; they
are however filled nightly to overflowing. Plays and
performances are generally in the French language,
though much inferior to those of Montreal. The French
theatre is considerably patronized by the English au-
thorities of the city, and is of course the favorite of all

T n E A T R K ^ .

2*23

ler during
;ntly hear
he British
i\ith such
ranger to

if the U-
ley would
arth. The
le French
they speak
eivingand
1 which is
who praise

to the in-

his admi-
\y imbued
n the pres-
make any
•otestantize
ench Cath-
ind an old
y rejoined
jland first?"
tier a small

in no wise
Iture ; they

Plays and
I language,
rhe French
English au-
vorite of all

those of any pretensions to elegance or fashion. The
French theatre offers considerable induc^'menta > its
patrons, although its performers arc by no means the
most finished members of the corps dramatique of France.
After visiting the principal ol^ects of interest on the
far-famed rock of Quebec, we made arrano;ements for
an excursion to the countiy, whose sparkling waters
and blue forests had somewhat an inviting appearance
from the heights, though not presenting the grandeur
they would in winter, when the evergreen and ever-
silent woodland is clothed with white drapery, and the
fine boughs tipped with icicles which image forth the
realmsofth« great frost-king, presenting in the sun-
light, fairy shadows dancing across the chrystal surface,
which is not diminished even by night in grandeur, as
it is equally imposing to view the innumerable stars
trembling m the cold clear firmament, and the moon-
light sparkling upon the crusted snow and white dra-
pery of tjie forest-

ir ,

* :f,

Ifi f> J

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£1

i'!

^21

nX'JTR.i»ION TO TlIU COfNTKr

C H A P T K U XIX.

i! I

Mil

Excursion to th(» connlry — Frpnrh Poasnnts — T.akos — Products
of the country — Fall-* of . Montmorency — Factoriei — Siil>X«m«
nconery — IJeauport — St. iMiclmol — Return t • Q lebec — Indi-
cations of Winter — Departure of tlie fleet— Canadian winter —
Streets of Qiiobec — Dress in winter — ! i^'ich rnro5i:iQr.e')e; —
Departure — CIia!idier Falls — IlistorienI Sket«'l) — Wild and
Bublimo clriracter of tlio Fall^— Arriv al at Three Ilivers^ —
Falls of Maskinontje — Jacques Carlier Kiver — Return to Mon-
ireiil — Politene:i*» of iho French — Theatre — Depajtiurc — Dis-
tant view of Montreal — Uoaiities of the St. Lawrence — La
Prairie — Barracks — Aspect of the coinitry — St. John — Ilkitor-
ical sketch — Swallows — Steamer Burlington.

I now left tho city of Quebec for the country, which
i found cold, but fertile and well watered. The mass
of the population are however settled in the valley of
the St. Lawrence. The principal public roads through
the country are generally M'Adamised, which in many
places were heaving up, caused by the action of the
frost. The population are chiefly of French origin ;
speak the French language ; are a contented, gay, harm-
less people, easy and courteous in their manners, bjt
very ignorant, t\nv ol them being able to read and write,
as education is much neglected. The native French
Canadians are called hahitans ; they are stroQi^lv at-
tached to their religion, which is Catholic; they are
also strongly attached to the land of their birth ; though
cold, rugged and desperate as are the regions of Cana-
da, the}-' contend there is no such a place on earth ; a
part of this delusion is of course to be attributed to their
ignorance. Yet dreary, gloomy and disheartening as
sounds the name of Lower Canada to the people of Yir-

TALUS or .NfONTMURr.M'V.

no*;

ginia, it pos.scssrs at l(»a.st some bt»autios, after the groat
mantle of snow and ico, which onvclopt's hrr for six
months in the year have [)assal away. These beauties
consist chiefly in her waters, such as lake Calvaire, lake
St. Charles and lake Beauport, with many beautiful
sn)a\ streams and rivers with handsome cascades and
water-falls. These lakes are celebrated for fine trout,
and some of the rivers for excellent salmon.

The country is very highly cultivated, chiefly in small
farms, which produce some wheat, but the principal
products are corn and such other grains common to the
northern parts oi the United States. Grain however,
is not produced in sufficient quantities for exportation.
The chief exports arc timber, furs, pot and pearl ashes.
Below the river Montmorency there are very few set-
tlements, except small fishing villages along the St.
Lawrence ; as the province becomes still more rugged,
cold and sterile, which is said rapidly to increase in a
north and northeastern direction, and of course becomes
^nfit for the ajbpde of man.

On my way back to Quebec, "f visited the Falls of
Montmorency. This is situated near the mouth of the
river of the same name, and 9 miles below Quebec.—^
The water is of a blackish color, being about the color
of common ley. It rises in a swampy section of coun-
try ; its so'jrce being a great pond, at a very consider-
able distance north of the St. Lawrence, and in iti
course to the falls it is joined by numerous streamsj
which increase it to a considerable river, which at th6
falls shoots in a sheet over a vast precipice 244 ieet
high. At about 30 yards above the verge of the pre-
10*

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TAM.^ or MoN'rMOUK.N'CY.

ciplce, the water is forced into a narrow channel of not
more than 100 feet wide, imnnediately below which it
falls about 5 feet perpendicular, and is parted by a
large rock, below which it again unites, and immedi-
ately falls over an awful precipice of 240 feet perpen-
dicular. The right bank of the river is cxpoi^d to the
north, and owing to its great height, the sun never
reaches the base of the precipice ; therefore the base
was covered with ice for 6 or 8 feet in height, caused
by the freezing of the mist which fell against the bank
as it arose from the falls, although in the month of June.
The banks on each side are smooth and precipitous ;
their summits are crowned with trees. From the lit-
tle fall of 5 feet, there is hewn out of the side of the
awful precipice on the left bank of the river, a channel
to convey water for the purpose of propelling some
mills and other factories, belonging to a Mr. Patterson,
which are situated at about 300 yards distance, which
are perched high up on an awful verge on the bank of
the St. Lawrence.

The falls of Niagara, are celebrated throughout the
civilized world as one of tbe grandest and most sub-
lime spectacles to be found in the universe. Among
fells o4* a secondary character, the falls of Montraoren-
ey deserve notice ; and although the scenery around
them is by no means as impressive as Niagara, yet the
true lover of nature — he who looks with the eye of an
enthusiast upon the sublime and beautiful, as it came
from the hand of the creator, can spend many an hour
of pleasure and delight, in watching the Montmorency
lis it comes rushing and thundering down the high pre-

•4

IXDICXTIONS OF WlXTEH.

tft

lel ol'not

which it

ted by a

immedi-

t perpen-

3d to the

un never

the base

it, caused

; the bank

1 of June.

icipitous ;

m the lit-

ide of the

a channel

ling some

Patterson,

:e, which

le bank of

ghout the
most sub-
Among
mtmoren-
y around
El, yet the
eye of an
J it came
f an hour
itmorency
high pre-

•4

cipice, sending forth its rainbows of light spray, in to*
ken of joy that the rough way is passed over, and that
its waters may now mingle with the mighty billows of
the majestic St. Lawrence, and roll on in more peace
^nd quiet, in awful grandeur, to mingle with th-e foam-
ing surges of the ocean>

The village of Beauport is about a quarter of a mile
distant from the St. Lawrence, and about 3 miles be-
low Quebec, Near it a small streamlet flow j in a nar-
row ravine about 110 feet deep, partly excavated in
the drift, which had filled up a more ancient hollovir in
the Silurian strata. By examining the cliff immediate-
ly below the house of a Mr. Ryland, and again a few
hundred yards to the west, wher« low-er beds were laid
open by the river, and then ascending to the higher
grounds northwards and towards a place called St. Mi-
chael, I obtained several pebbles and shells which my
curiosity induced me to save.

After my return to Quebec, I received from my kind
host Mr. Russell, of the Albion Hotel, much informa-
tion concerning Canada, among other things the follow-
ing: The indications of the approaching winter, is ob-
served by the delicate and vaporious hues of the long
twilights of July ; are followed in October by dark
nights and gloomy days ; the leaves have all withered,
the air is sharp, the sk}'' looks grey and dull -, the north-
west winds begin their wailing accents ; the St. Law-
rence joins in with mournful murmurs, and all nature
■ighs with seeming sadness, over the early grave of sum-
mer ; clouds of dust sweep through the streets, and pen-
etrate the crevices of every door and window ; colds

•elf. I : ,

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22S

QUEIJL't; l.V WINlTEit*

I-

and asthmas prevail ; strangers prepare to leave ; house--
keepers are engaged in putting in double window sash-
i's, and lining the door with felt : and every one who
is able makes every preparation for the approaching
winter.

To a southern stranger, it is impossible to conceive
of a more disagreeable climate. Frost begins about the
15th ol September, and lasts until the 10th or 15th of
May. About the first of October, the fierce north wind
begins, accompanied with whirling flurries of snow,
which rolls on the waves of the St. Lawrence and dash-
es them with great force against the banks. It is at
this dreary season, that the last steamer takes its depar-
ture lor another land. The last boat ! How many anx-
ious feelings are excited in the bosom of the resident,
at this announcement ! How many assemble on the
pier that day, to gaze upon the envied few, who are to
escape before the great portals of the St. Lawrence are
locked with ice, and when the last adieu is waved, and
the lingering crowd disperse, how do the thoughts of
all revert to other scenes ! To those who live in Can-
ada who have lived elsewhere, there appears something
exceedingly sad in the aspect of the Canadian autumn,
which however cannot be discovered in native-born
citizens.

About the first of November, the cold increases in se-
verity ; the water is congealed to the consistency of
jelly, and the snow freezes as it falls. Still the mercu-
ry descends, and toward the latter part of the month,
the St. Lawrence is covered with soUd ice. The French
Canadian rejoices when the snow is deep and hard ;

CANADIAN WINTER,

.^tf ^ 1/

eases in se-

and as soon as the police will permit liim to venture
upon the ice-bound river, he launches forth upon his
sleio^h, and drives at full speed along the paths which
are marked out : boats rigged with sails, and propelled
by the wind, glide swiftly up and down on the ice,
and when not too cold, a few skaters appear and prac-
tice the sport of the winter. When these melancholy
days have come, the Canadian breakfasts at about sev-
en o'clock; then piercing with his eye the double glas-
ses of his windows and the drowsy obscurity of day, he
discovers snow enough to la^ for months. After the
sun is fairly up, he wraps about him, the Englishman
his cloak, and the Frenchman his pelisse lined with
fur; out he goes into the clear, cracking cold of a Ca-
nadian winter morning ; he finds the pavements nicely-
swept, and may walk them in safety, as the sidewalks in
all the principal streets are cleared of snow and ice,
and the snow in the streets kept beat down or in part
removed, so as to be passable for sleighs.

As the season advances, some bright days bring out
into the streets, crowds of the population. The peas-
antry of the surrounding country flock to the city with
their sleighs and horses, and the animation and variety
of the multitude, who ride or walk upon the streets as
well as on the ice of the St. Lawrence, surpasses any
thing of the kind to be seen on the continent. All this
multitude are wrapped in fur from the most common
to tlie most costly kind ; some of whom occupy the side
walks ; while the carriage-way is completely filled with
sleighs, from the dashing turn-out of the English author-
ities, to the hwroble sleigh of the Frencli peasant. They

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230

fALLS 01' ciiAunifiRi:.

all drive with great rapidity, and yet an accident sel-
dom occurs.

I now prepared to leave Quebec, and my kind host
Mr, Russell, whom I found to be a man of wealth, and
among his possessions are two of the largest and most
popular hotels in the city. He is a host who uses ev-
ery exertion to accommodate a guest, in a neat but plain
manner ; and I found him in every way an accommo-
dating man, and on leaving him, he accommodated me
with a charge of one dollar per meal, during my stay
with him. I repaired to the wharf and took passage
on board the steamer Lord Sydenham, the same boat
which first landed me, and left the memorable city of
Quebec, which I long had a curiosity of seeing, and
sailed up the St. Lawrence to the mouth of the Chau-
diere river, from which I travelled a short distance up
that river to the Chaudiere Falls, which are a delight-
ful curiosity. The fall is of considerable height, and
above which are long rapids. It was this fall that came
very near destroying Gen. Arnold and his army, in his
expedition against Quebec. In his great eagerness to
reach Quebec, he sailed down this river with his little
boats and canoes without a guide, or even any knowl-
edge of the river ; but hurried on till one day about
noon he suddenly found himself amid rapidsj the boats
were caught by the waves, and whirled onward until
three were dashed against the rocks and sunk with all
they contained. This calamity was their salvation ;
for while they were drying their clothes on shore, a
man who had gone ahead, suddenly cried out "a fall."
A cataract was foaming just below them, sending its

ident sel-

kind host
jalth, and
and most
) uses ev-
; but plaiti
Lccommo-
>dated me
my stay
k passage
same boat
e city of
eing, and
the Chau-
istance up
a delight-
eight, and
that came
my, in his
g-erness to
[i his little
ny knowl-
day about
• the boats
ivard until
ik witti all
salvation ;
n shore, a
It «a fall."

I
-*

TAl.LB or MASKlNONGIi.

231

roar through the forest. But lor the upsetting of the
boats, the entire party would have gone on till they
came within the suction of the descending waters, when
nothing could have saved them from utter destruction.

The falls of Chaudiere possess some attraction, though
not to be compared to the tails of Montmorency. Yet
a stranger may spend several hours in examining this
place, very satisfactorily, especially il he be fond of
rugged and rocky scenery. While at this place I learn-
ed that this tamous river contained no less than seven-
teen falls between this and lake Megantic, which is the
source of the river, situated near the boundary line be-
tween Lower Canada and the State of Maine. All of
these fails are said to be considerably smaller than the
one above named. I now returned to the St. Law-
rence, and on my way up the river stopped at Three
Rivers.

While at the city of Three Rivers, I made an excur-
sion to the Falls of Maskinonge, located a few miles
northward of the St. Lawrence. There is here a con-
siderable cascade and fall ; it is situated in a fine region
and upon the whole a very beautiful watwfall. The
river here forces its way through a narrow clifFof rocks.
The day was warm and pleasant, the only warm and
pleasant day I experienced during my stay m Canada.
In the woods near the falls, in approaching it, we were
attracted, and became enveloped in the most terrible
cloud of musquitos, I ever had the misfortune of getting
into in my life. We of course at first made a defence,
and fought desperately for a few moments, but seeing
that we would be overwhelmed by numbers, we were

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232

UKTUllN' TO MuNTIlKAL.

I.:

compelletl to hew our way through their ranks, and
escape by flight. While engaged in this desperate en-
counter, I almost came to the conclusion the place was
more celebrated for mosquitos than any thing else. —
This was the only occasion on which I was annoyed
by these enemies, owing to the coolness of the season.
This river and the Jacques Cartier river are celebrated
for excellent salmon fishing.

We were again soon found at the St. Lawrence, and
sailing on board the steamer Canada, for Montreal,
where I was delighted to again meet my kind host Mr,
Hall, of the Ottawa Hotel. During my stay, among
other things I was much delighted with the politeness
of many of the French gentlemen and ladies * with their
gay and lively chat with each other • little of whose
conversation however I understood, as it was always
in the French language. Those of the parties on leav-
ing the group, never failed to add the words, ^^Qtiand
viendrez vous me voir ?" (when are you coming to see
me) to which some of the group would make suitable
answers ; on which the parties made a graceful bow to
each other; and if the group consisted of gentlemen,
the word Messieurs is added, if Ladies, the word Mad-
am^ if married; if single, ^^Mesdemoiselle,je vous sou^
haite, le hon jour, adieuJ'^

The meeting of French gentlemen is no less to be ad-
mired than their parting. Alter a cordial shake of the
hand, among the first words spoken are, ^^TumeZ'Vous,
voulez-vous un cigar '^^^ '^Avecplaisir ; merciJ'^ (smoke
you ; will you have a segar 1 with pleasure, thanks.)
Smoking appears to be a characteristic of the French

VZr.Vr OF MOSTTLT.AL.

233

■i

■H

Canadian. They are here much more intelligent than
they are in the lower part of the province ; thovi^h
their education is here neglected as well as it is there.
A part ol* their intelligence may be attributed to their
bein? of'the higher classes, and Montr al beino; the
great metropolis of British America, where of course
they have more opportunities of receiving information.
|n the theatre of Montreal I had opportunities of see-
ing, in the actors of the theatre, how susceptible the
French are of high attainments.

I now left the city of Montreal, and crossed the St.
Lawrence obliquely on my way southward to the city
of Jia Prairie, a distance of 9 miles. On looking back
over the river to Montreal, the whole city seemed in a
hls^ze of light, owing to the fashion here of covering
the houses with tin, which reflected the rays of the
setting sun, so that every roof seemed a mirror. Be-
hind the city rose its s:eep and shapely mountain : in
iront were wooded islands, and the clear waters of the
majestic St. Lav/rence, sweeping along with a broad
and rapid current ; while beyond the glittering waves
could be seen the dazzling roof of the mightv Cathe-
dral, with her towers piercing as it were iY c clouds,

La Prairie is beautifully situated on the south side of
the St. Lawrence, 9 miles from Montreal ; is the great
thoroughfare of the trade between Montreal and the
United States, and is connected with St. John, on the
Sorelle river bv railroad. At the barracks in La Prai-
rie, a regiment of hussars were exercising ; a scene
V'hich we had but a few minutes time to witness, be-?
fore the cars started lor St. John, a distJinpQ of ^7 milei;

\\i\

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Ill

234.

ST. JOHN.

in which distance we passed many splendid farms high-
ly cultivated, all of which were still within the Mon-
treal district. The land J did not consider as good as
some on the north shore of the St. Lawrence, it being
low and of a cold nature, yet its high state of cultiva-
tion remedied this evil no doubt to a considerable extent.

St. John, with a population of upwards of 11,000,
is advantageously situated on the river Sorelle; the ci-
ty is well built and carries on considerable trade. St.
John is celebrated as being the place to which Arnold
made a masterly retreat, after the disaster of the Amer-
icans before Quebec, in which a portion of the army
were captured. Here he hastily embarked his men,
while the British army were close at his heels ; he
stood and saw the last boat but his own leave the shore,
then springing to his saddle, he galloped back towards
the British army, till he came in sight of the pursuing
column pressing rapidly forward being close upon him ;
for a moment he coolly surveyed his foes, then put
spurs to his horse and came back in a headlong gallop.
Reining up his steed by the shore, he sprang to the
ground, and stripped off the saddle and bridle, shot the
noble animal dead in his tracks, to prevent his falling
into the hands of the enemy, heaved his own boat from
the beach, and leaping into it, shot out into the river
out of the reach of his enemies. All this when scarce-
ly recovered from the wound received before Quebec.

While at St. John, my attention among other things
was drawn to a great troop of swallows, where I count-
ed under the eaves of the stable of our hotel, more than
forty nests, of the red-breasted swallow; the nests be-

AMERICAN rOKTIFICATIONS.

235

-1

in«5 crowded with young birds peeping out of each,
while the air was filled with the old ones flying about
and feeding them. The landlord told me that they had
built there for twenty years, but missed the two years
when the cholera raged ; for at that time there was a
scarcity of insects. Our host also mentioned that in
making an excavation near Plattsburg, about 1,000 of
these birds were found hybernating in the sand ; a tale
for the truth of which I do not vouch ; together with
several other swallow stories which he related.

On board the steamer Burlington, I sailed up the So-
relle, on both shores of which could be seen excellent
land, and on the right the town of Dorchester ; soon af-
ter passing which we arrived at the boundary line be-
tween Canada and the United States, and entered lake
Champlain.

CHAPTER XX.

STATE OF NSW TORE.

Lake Champlain — Fortifications — Boundary line — Customhouse
Otficer — Mount Marcy — Mount MansReld — Majestic scenery
— Canadian soldier — M'Donough's capture of the British fleet
— Plattsburg — Port Kent — Boulder Formation — Chasm — Wa-
ter Falls — White Hall — Railroads.

The first object which attracts the attention of the
stranger after entering the northern extremity of Lake
Champlain, on the western or New York side, are the
American fortifications, situated on Houson's Point,
near the boundary line. On the Vermont side of the

li-

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23(5

LAKE CHAMrLAlN.

lake, the boundary line is marked out by an opc-n way
cut through the forest. The next object which arrest-
ed our attention, was a Cuslom-house officer on board
the steamer Burlin2;lon, who kindlv invited us to de-
liver up our trunks for his inspection, which of court ;
we done without any hesitancy, as ^uncle Sam' demand-
ed it. I was delighted to i^nd that this agent was a
perfect o;entleman ; this however I found also to be the
case with Queen Victoria's Custom-house agent, after
I passed the boundary line of the United States, and
was found in her dominions.

vThe scenery of lake Champlain \s deservedly much
admired. On the western shore I could see the prin*
cipal range of mountains in the State of New York, a-
mong which are Mount Marcy the highest, attaining
^n elevation of upwards of 5,400 feet, It was still capr
ped with snow, although the 6th of June. To the
eastward were the Green Mountains, Camel's Hump,
and the still loftier Mount Mansfield, being very con-
spicuous, the whole presenting a scene of the grandest
and sublimest character.

While sailing up this beautiful lake, which is 120
miles long, enclosed by the grandest mountain scenery
on every hand, which appeared tq be the chief theme
of conversation with the passengers, while a group of
some half dozen of us, among which was an intelligent
and genteel Canadian, were busily engaged in conver-
sation on the lake and its beauties, the steamer turned
a point of land on the right, and rapidly approached
the city of Plattsburg ; and when on that part of the
lake where Commodore M'Donough defeated and cap-

Pr. ATTSBURG CITV.

537

(ured the British fleet, durino^ the late war, the Cana-
dian chano^ed the conversation by sayinpr, "rii^lit here
34 years ago, wo all got the terriblest thrashing, that
ever a set of men got in this world ;" to which some
of the group remarked, "we made the lint fly did we?"
He answered, "now if you did not, I would not say so;
be assured gentlemen, those of us who escaped were
compelled to hussel back, around that point of land, a
good deal faster than we came, and be assured you nev-
er catch this child in such a scrape again in a hurry ;
I will know better how to do next time.*" The cap-
tain of the boat remarked to him, "I suppose you will
come on our side next time, will you ?" to which he
answered with a smile, "you are a little too hard ibr
me now ; but I will acknowledge that I was once caught
in folly."

Clinton county. — While we were thus enjoying our-
selves with the Canadian, the steamer placed herself
beside the pier of the city of Plattsburg, which con-
tains a poi-ulation of 6,4-16, it is beautifully situated at
the junction of the Saranac river with lake Champlain;
it is well situated and commands a considerable por-
tion of the commerce of the lake. This place is cele-
brated for the great battle and victory of the Americans
under Gen. Macomb, over the British army, under Sir
George Prevost; and also for the capture of the British
fleet by Commodore M'Donough, a short distance be-
low the town, on the lake, during the late war with
Great Britain. ...

Our steamer next touched at Port Kent, a very beau-
hful town, sitnafod af the junction of the Ausable river

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238

WHITE HALL,

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t '''Mi

'. .»*

with the lake. At this place there is a boulder loima-
tion with shell, in which I observed at the bottom of
the section, first clay 30 feet thick, with boulders o!
gneiss, granite, limestone and quartzose or Potsdam
sandstone, some rounded blocks of the latter being nine
feet in diameter ; secondly, loam, with shells 6 feet
thick ; and thirdly sand, 20 feet thick. From this place
I went to Keesville, a little town of about 900 inhabi-
tants, to examine a deep cleft in the sandstone, through
which the Ausable river flows for two miles. This
chasm is only from 40 to 50 feet in width, while its
perpendicular walls are lOO feet high. A flight of
wooden stairs has been constructed here so as to enable
one to reach the bottom : and the stranger may observe
as he descends, the numerous horizontal strata of sili-
ceous sandstone. In many places this most ancient of
the fossiliferous rocks of New York, known as Pots-
dam sandstone, is divided into laminde, by the remains
of innumerable shells. Which are in such profusion as
to form black seams like mica, for which they might
vastly be mistaken. Above this chasm were tvvo beau-
tiful waterfalls, where the ripple-like ridges^ and fur-
rows exhibit their usual parallelism, and ramifications,
as shaxp as if they had been made yesterday. I now
returned to the lake, for the purpose of sailing up to
White Hall, at the siouthern extremity of the lake.

Washington county. — White Hall, with a population
of 3,812, is situated at the southern extremity of lake
Champlairi, on a rough, rocky site : it however contains
some fine buildings, i's a Jflace of considerable trade and
is in a very prospering condition. A railroad is in pro-

fORT ANNE.

239

gross from Saratoga Springs to this place, which will
open a communication from the city of New York, by
the way of Troy and White Hall, through lake Cham-
plain to St. John and Montreal, in Canada, which will
shorten the route of travel to the latter place very con-
siderably for the southern traveller.

Thus far lake Champlain forms the boundary between
New York and Vermont; the middle of the lake being
the line ; its waters are beautiful and its scenery de-
lightful ; at least all that could be seen by daylight. A
portion ot the lake I passed over after night, and of
course could not see all its scenery. At White Hall
commences the Champlain Canal, which connects lake
Champlai ^ with the river Hudson at the city ol Troy,
being 76 miles in length.

■I,*'

CHAPTER XXI.

Fort Anne — Sandy Hill — Champlain Canal — Uprooting stumps
by an engine — Glen^s Falls — Bridge — Caverns — Manufactures
— Marble quarries — Village of Glen's Falls — Fort Edward —
Saratoga Springs — Village of Saratoga — Streets — Shade trees
— Groves— Hotels — Mineral Waters — Great popularity of the
water — Analysis of the Congress Spring — Appearance of the
waters — High Rock Spring — Academy — Churches-Dwellings
— Bowling Alleys — Circular Railway — Cemetery — Monument
— Saratoga Lake.

Fort Anne, with a population of 3,559, is situated
about half way between White Hall and the village of
Sandy Hill. The fortifications at this place are cele-
brated for their importance. The village of Sandy Hill,

440

tJPllOOTLN'C STtMPSi

WM^

Mirii

is situated near where the Hudson river turns at right
angles to the south ; it is truly a splendid village, be-
ing located on high and commanding ground, and pos-
sesses some objects of attraction. The surrounding
country is delightful, being clothed with heavy crops
of grain and grass; the streets of the village are broad,
crossing each other at right angles, adorned with beau-
tiful shade trceSi There are heie several very lar^^e
and elegant churches; the ether buildings are all of
considerable elej^ance. Just in the rear of the villacre
passess the Champlain canal, which connects that lake
at White Hall, with the Hudson, as noticed in the pre-
ceding chapter, by which the village profits very con-
siderably.

Warren county. — In passing through this county, as
well as thte above named county, I saw many very de-
lightful farms, many of them new ones ; but not a stump
could be seen standing in the fields, they being all
drawn out by means of an engine made for the express
purpose; which is moved from place to place, by be-
ing attached to a carriage with two wheels about eight
feet high, the engine being placed under the axle of
the carriage. The engine is fastened to the stump
with chains, and the whole constructed with strength,
and on such a principle, as to be capable of drawing
tiut the most powerful stump in the field. The stumps
are afterwards used for fencing, being laid side by side,
which is said to make an excellent fence.

Glen's Falls are situated on the Hudson river, 196
miles north of the city of New York. The Falls con-
sist of two falls and a short rapid between them ; at

G L E N ' b FALLS.

241

IS at right
Ilage, be-
k and pos-
troundinsr
javy crops
are broad,
(withbeau-
verv lar^e
are all of
he villa?e
that lake
in the pre-
very con-
county, as
ly very dt-
not a stump
y being all
the express
ice, by be-
about eight
the axle of
the stump
h strength,
of drawing
The stumps
side by side,

river, 196
) Falls con-
1 (hem • at

Ihe upper fall the water descends by a perpendicular
fall, of about 18 feat, and falls about 12 feet in the short
rapid, in which distance the channel is wedged into a
narrow chasm, where the water roars and plunges a-
gainst the walls which confine it so terribly that it pre-
sents a grand spectacle to behold. Immediately below
this chasm, is the other fall, about 9 ket high. Over
this short and narrow chasm, is constructed a handsome
and substantial bridge, being supported by two great
pillars, let into a large and powerful rock which forms
one side of the narrow chasm, and extends over the re-
maining breadth of the river; which rock is about 10
leet high, and during a freshet, when the narrow chasm
cannot contain the water, it overflows the entire rock
chasm and all. immediately below the Toclf, and to
one side of the lower fall, there is a long rock adjoin-
ing it, which runs down the river about 100 yards,
which has several small caverns or arches in it, through .
which a person may walk, by entering it from a ravine
running parallel with the west bank and rock ; after
passing through, you are stopped at the east side, by
the rolling waves from the falls, which pass about 18
inches beneath your feet. ^ i

The fails afford a vast water power, which is used
^or manufacturing purposes ; there being a large num-
ber of factories of different kinds on both sides of the
river ; among them are some extensive factories fui
sawing and dressing marble ; there being very e^teA-
sive marble quarries about half a mile below the place:,
on each bank of the river; which marble can be seen
to extend down the precipice from SO to 90 feet. The

'• > I ! ■

1.^ /:

■i!^^

I V

-ill

GLEN^S FALLS.

' '

Ml ; I ■

iiliii

mv. 8 1

village at this place, is situated on high and command-
ing ground, its streets beautifully adorned with shade
trees; the buildings are chiefly brick, and present con-
siderable elegance, there are also 6 very beautiful
churches. There is a short canal constructed from this
place to interbect the Champlain canal, which affords
an excellent fticility for conveying away their vast
quantities of lumber and marble.

Fort Edward, w^th a population of 1726, is situated
on the Hudson river. These fortifications have ever
been celebrated as of the highest importance, during
all the American wars. These great fortifications were
noted during the old French w^ar, as being under the
command of the cowardly, selfish and miserable Gen.
Webb, who turned a deaf ear to the distress of Fort
William Henry, about 12 miles distant, which after its
commander Col. Munroe had done all that a brave man
could do, fell, and its heroic garrison were all massacred.
At this important post stood the heroic Schuyler, when
the fugitives from Ticonderoga under Gen. St. Clair,
emerged from the forest like frighted sheep, from be-
fore the victorious Burgoyne, who came thundering
ii'om Lake George down the Hudson, crushing every-
thing in his passage, during our revolutionary struggle.
In the mciintime, and in the immediate vicinit}^ of these
fortifications, occurred the murder of the accomplished
and beautiful Miss Jane McRea, whose treatment and
death will ever stand, as a monument of the most sav-
age cruelty.

Saratoga county. — I now made my way for Sarato-
ga Springs, where I arrived on njy route south from

S A R A T OG A S ni 1 X C. S »

243

Canada. These Springs are situated on the west side
ofthe noble Hudson, and within 4 miles of the beauti-
ful Lake of Saratoga. They are celebrated as one of
the greatest watering places in the world. There is
here a town with a population of 3384 ; the buildings
ofthe town are large and well finished, either of brick
or frame; the latter being painted white, which make
a very elegant appearance ; being situated on a high
connmanding plain, and is in every sense one of the
handsomest villages in the State of New York ; the
streets are broad crossino; each other at rischt ano-les :
the principle ones extending in a straight line lar out
into the country. The streets are all beautifully orna*
mented with shade trees ; among which may be found
Elm, Beach, Sugarmaple, White pine, Spruce pine,

V press, Balsam, &c., which together with 4 large
' i..e Groves within half a mile ofthe town, perfume
the air very agreeably. Two or three of these groves
are furnished with seats for the accommodation of vis-
itors. ■

The streets have side-walks about 12 feet wide, which
are beautifully curbed and paved with patent bricks.
There are hydrants at almost every corner ofthe streets,
to supply the town with fresh water, for the various
uses ofthe inhabitants; these side-walks are adorned
on one side with hydrants, white posts and beautiful
shade trees ; while the other is no less ornamented by
the numerous marble and granite steps at the doors of
the dwellings, surmounted by a splendid iron banister
or railing, painted green or black; together with the
numerous flowering boxes, birdcages. Sec, renders these

ilU

MINERAL WaIEKS.

Walks more deli-rhtful than those of other cities or towns.

The town contains ID very large and elegant hotels,
all of which arc well conducted ; the four largest of
which are the United States Hotel, containing 480
rooms J Congress Hall, Union Hall, and Columbia Hos-
tel ; which four hotels alone are capable of accommo-
dating 4900 persons in a very comfortable manner. —
The whole number of hotels combined are capable of
accommodating a large number of visitors} in addition
to which almost every house is a Boarding-houae, of
tile first class 5 so that those vast crowds which collect
together here from iar and wide, find little difficulty
in procuring good accommodations.

The principal mineral Springs at this place are ten
in number, and known by the names of Congress, Wash-
ington, Columbia, Hamilton, Putnam, Pavilion, Flat
Rock, High Rock, Iodine and Empire. Eight of these
springs are fitted up in a very handsome style, with
curbs or tubes inserted in the earth to the depth of from
30 to 40 feet, well secured against the admission of
fresh water. These Springs are protected by a roof,
isupporled by large pillars which are whitened as well
as the ceiling over-head. The floors are two feet low-
er than the top of the curb. Near each of these springs
are very large buidings used for bottlcing water.

The most popular of these mineral waters is the Con-
gress Spring, which is visited by thousands and thou-
sands daily during the months of July and August. —
This spring alone has been an independent fortune to
the late Dr. Clark & Co., as vast quantities of the wa-
ter is sold in bottles to citizens of our country who live

CONCnESS SPKIXC.

245

or towns.

int hotels,

largest of

ning 480

mbia Ho"

iccommo-

aanner. —

apable of

I addition

-house, of

:h collect

difficulty

e are ten
ess, Wash*
lion, Flat
bt of these
:yie, with
3th of from
mission of
by a roof,
;d as well
) feet low-
'se springs
iter.

s the Con*
and thou-
August. —
fortune to
►f the wa-
y who live

at too remote a distance to attend the springs : in addi-
tion to which vast quantities are exported to foreign
countries. The waters of this noted spring are famed
by the known world for their medical qualities.
The following is the analysis of the Congress Spring
water, at the spring by the celebrated Dr. Allen :

Chloride of Sodium - - - 300,240

Hydriodate of Soda, and B Potassa - G,OUO

- Caibonateof Soda ... - 9,013

Carbonate of Alairnesia - - - ]0(),i)<S1

Carbonate of I. iine - - - 10.'i,416

CarUn lie of Iron ... - 1,00U

Sulphat« of Soda, atraco, - - - ()00

Silex and Alumina - . - - 1,03G

Solid contents in a gallon - - . 611 892

Carbonate Acid Gas • - 383,777
Atmospheric Air - - • 2,3G1

Gaseous contents in a gallon - - 38G,138

The other Mineral Springs contain some of the same
ingredients which the Congress Spring does, yet not
in the same proportion ; some contain more Iron ; some
more Lime : while several have considerable Iodine &
other mineral ingredients; but none as m.uch Magnesia
and Soda. These celebrated waters are very cold, have
a sparkling appearance similar to very clear water heat-
ed just before the act of boiling. The great quantity
of gas in the composition of these waters passes off rap-
idly.

The water as it rUns to the surface appears very much
agitated, as water in the act of boiling in a common
kettle. As it rolls to the surface, it is attended by a
buzzing noise ; the surface is almost enveloped in a
mist or spray which rises; this in a clear da}' is very

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24.6

IIIG'TI nOCK SPRTXf;.

•i*«i..

])eautirul to behold. A clikken or other fowl being
put down into the curb in the midst of this mist for a
few minutes, when removed it will be found that
life is extinct : and a person on thrusting his head into
the top of the curb will feel the effects of the gas in-
stantaneously. These singular waters are so cold that
it is with considerable difficulty a person can drink off
a common glass without stopping to take breath.

The High Rock Spring consists of a rock 22 fett in
circumference and 5 feet high, and of a conical form;
in the top of which is an aperture of about nine inches
in diameter; its depth is unknown. The water rises
to within about eighteen inches of the top ol the Rock.
The water of this, as well as all the other Springs, ap-
pears very much agitated by its terrible rolling and
rumbling ; its sparkling appearance, and the singular
buzzing noise attending it. The aperture whereby the
water escapes as it rises, has not asyet been discovered.
The whole of this rock appears to be a great curiosity,
as its waters rise three and a half feet above the level
of the surface of the earth, and again escapes in such
a manner that no trace of its channel has yet been dis-
covered. The features of this celebrated Rock have
every appearance of being once overflown by the wa-
ter, and formed b}^ the ingredients in its composition ;
which with the action of the sun and air on the same
is noi in the least improbable.

The town contains the Saratoga Academy', a frame
structure, situated in a beautiful white pine grove on
the main street about 200 yards from the town, which
is a very flourishing institution. There are ;3 large and

PLACES OF amt;«;e:\ient.

247

elegant churches, each of which contains a very fine
Organ ; the Catholic church however has the honor of
having the finest. There are also many splendid dwel-
lings in the town and its vicinity, among which is that
of Judge Marvin, which is situated on commanding
ground overlookino; the whole town, and is one of the
most splendid dwellings in the State of New York. —
This gentleman is the owner of the great United States
Hotel, and a vast deal of property in the town and its
vicinity, together with a very largeportionof the stock
in the Saratoga Bank. A large portion of the lands a-
reund the town are the property of this same wealthy
man; many of the lands are laid out in lots from a
fourth, to an acre each, and offered for sale at $1200
per acre ; at which enormous price some are sold. The
soil is of an inferior quality, as the whole surrounding
country is an elevated sandy plain, and was it not for
the celebrated Mineral Waters, the whole'plain, hand-
some as it is, would be comparatively a barren plain.

There are here a number of bathing establishments,
where baths may be had at all times of mineral or soft
waters, at any temperature. There are also for the a-
musement of persons. Swings, Stooling Galleries, Bow-
ling Alleys, Race Paths: and in one ofthe Groves there
is a circular Railway of about 400 feet in diameter
with two tracks, on each of w^hich is a small car with
a seat for two persons. This is propelled on the track
by means of a crank which the passenger has himself
to turn.

The Cemetery, about a mile from town, contains a-
bout 30 acres of o;round: the whole of which is taste-

i r
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^.11

24S"

REMIS'S ITFIcrTT??.

lully hiid out, and contains many handsome Tombs anei
Monuments. The largest is situated on a high and
commanding eminence, and is a very splendid monu-
ment, erected to the memory of Obed M. Cohnan, the
celebrated musician. Tt contains handsome and appro-
priate inscriptions and emblems. This beautiful mon-
ument was erected at a cost of $16,000. At the dis-
tance of 4 miles is the beautiful little Lalte of Saratoga,
which is 20 miles long, on which are several handsome
little steamers, on board of which a delightful pleasure
ride may be had up and down the Lake.

CHAPTER XXII.

Bemi^^s Hciglits — Historical Sketch — Last Battle of AmoJd in
the Cause of American Freedom — Anecdote of Gen. Gate^
— Conway Cabel — Stillwater — Lake George — Alexandria —
Ticonderoga — Crown Point.

The next objects of attraction in the vicinity of Sar-
atoga, are the ever memorable Heights known by the
name of Bemis's Heights, celebrated for the two great
battles and capture of the British army under Burgoyne,
during the Revolution. On this celebrated battle-field,
the American camp was^ pitched on the Hudson, and
extended back about half a mile from the share. Al-
most directly in front were two creeks running nearly
parallel to each other, along which the American pick-
ets were stationed ; these presented serious obstacles to
the advance of Burgoyne, while towards the sources ol
these two creeks, or farther up tne Heights toward the

liii

HISTORICAL SKETCH.

240

'ombs anri
high and
id monu-

)lman, the

md appro-
iful raon-
t the dis-

)f Saratoga,
handsome

ul pleasure

of AmoW in
f Gen. Gates
Alexandria —

inity of Sar-
3wn by the
e two great
r Burgoyne,
battle-field,
ludson, and
shore. Ai-
ming nearly
erican pick-
obstacles to
le sources oi
s toward the

&.i

left of the American line, the approach was easier. It
was on this account Burgoyne resolved to make his at-
tack in that direction. Accordingly on the memorable
7th of October, moving his troops in three columns he-
advanced to the American left.

While I was viewing leisurely, these far-famed Heights,
my mind was drawn back to many of the daring deeds
of the impetuous Arnold, more particularly as this was
the last bloody field upon which he struggled so nobly
for American Liberty. It was here the hero received
a shattered leg in the the very sally port of the British
camp, where rider and horse sunk together to the earth ;
it was here on the 7th of October, 1777, that Arnold,
when hearing the heavy explosions of artillery making
the earth tremble beneath him, that he mounted that
beautiful dark Spanish steed name Warren, (after the
hero of Bunker Hill,) and launched like a thunder-bolt
away to the scene of strife, and where the shot fell thick-
est, there that black steed was seen plunging through
the smoke, and where death reaped down the brave
fastest, there his thrilling shout was heard ringing over
the din and tumult. And no sooner than did the Brit-
ish line begin to shake and falter, before Arnold discov-
ered the gallant Frazier, mounted on a gray horse, mo-
ving amid the chaos, bringing order out of confusion,
and courage out of despondency, wherever he passed.
No sooner had he made this discovery, than he applied
a remedy, by ordering General Morgan to mark that
gallant officer as a host. But few moments elapsed be-»
fore the ojallant Frazier was cut down, and with him
fell the right arm of their strength. The impetuous
11*

•■''I

'\>\

>'V

'■'f rwrf

250

iiir^ToKicAL siCF/rcrr.

rifP

Pii,

:i ■!

Arnold lind no sooner g-iven INIoro-an this order, than he
put hitnself at Ifx^ head of three regiments of Larned's
l>rigade, and with a shout, those who heard it never
forjjot to their latest dav, and with which he stormed
the batteries, cleared every obstacle, and forced the Brit-
ish line back into their camp. But scarcely had they
entered it, before the heroic Arnold was heard making
the most enthusiastic appeals to his troops, "You," said
he to one, "was with me at Quebec," "3'ou in the wil-
derness," "and you on Champlain; Follow me." His
Bword was seen glancin^; like a beam of light along
their serried ranks, the next moment he and his he-
roes like a whelmino; Hood were bursting over the en-
emies' entrenchments, and hand to hand with arguments
of bloody steel, were pleading the cause ol ages yet un-
born. The British we are told, fought with a fury of
men struggling iorlife. Hoarse as a mastiff, of true
British breed, Lord Balcarras was heard from rank to
rank, loud animating his troops, while on the other
hand, fierce as the hungry tiger of Bengal, the impetu-
ous Arnold was hurling his heroes on the stubborn foe,
bearing on Columbia's lovely stripes, till horse and ri-
der sunk together to the earth, the good steed dead and
the heroic Arnold beneath him with his leg shattered
to pieces.

This ended the fight, and the wounded hero was borne
pale and bleeding Irom the field of his fame, only to a-
wakea to chagrin and disappointment. There is little
doubt that when he galloped to the field, he had made
up his mind to bury his sorrows, persecutions and dis-
appointments in a bloody grave. Would that he ha^d

ANECDOTE OF OENraAL GATKS.

251

succeeded, fur until then his faco hud shone like the
star oi'the niornincr, and lie liad du/zledthe world with
tlie glare oi'his noble exploits. I3ut Jilas lor Arnold '
when wronged and disappointed, he fell like Lucifer
I'rom a heaven of ^^lory, into an abyss of never-ending
infamy, where his nanie will ever leceive the curses
of his countrymen, and the scorn of the world.

We were informed by the ])oo])le of those retrions, to
whom it was handed down by tln-ir lathers, who were
heroes in the conilict, that tbe heroic Arnold inflicted
this last and des])erate blow on the J3ritish, while Gen,
Gates, the commander-in-chief of the American army,
was in his tent in the. camp, discussing witli Sir Fran-
cis Clark, the merits ol the Revolution. This gentle-
man had been wounded and taken prisoner, and was
laid on Gates' bed : and when one ol the American aids
came galloping from the field, the aid to his great sur-
prise, found his General very much excited, though not
about the battle.; but because his antagonist would not
allow the force of his argument. Walking out of the
room he called his aid, after him, and asked him if he
''had ever heard so impudent a son of a b — — h."

This was the part that General Gates took in the des-
perate struggle on the plains of Saratoga, and afterwards
snatched and wore the laurels upon his own brow, which
were won by the blood and wounds of such towering
heroes as Arnold, Morgan, Dearborn, Ten Brock, Poor,
and a host of others. This being the case, we need not
he surprised that h's vanity became so inflated, that he
was afterwards found so deeply implicated in the Con-
way Cabel, perhaps better known by the name of Con-

.11

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T I C O N D E tt O O A .

way conspiracy, against General Washington \ in \vhic!l
it was louncl that to gratify a mean ambition, he laid a
train to undermine Washington \ which had it matured
or exploded, would have shivered the Union into frag-
ments.

The town of Stillwater, with a population of 2733, is
situated up the Hudson, from the battle-field. " Stillwa-
ter is celebrated for the surrender of Burgoyne, on the
17th of October, only 10 days after the great battle of
Bemis's Heights. To this town he had retreated after
the battle, and intended to cut his way back to Lake
George, the way he came; but by the time hfe reached
Stillwater, he learned that Fort Edward was again in
possession of the Americans, which completely cut off
his retreat, as that fortification is situated a few miles a-
boye on the Hudson.

On leaving these celebrated places & traveling north,
brought me to the south end of Lake George, at which
place is situated the town of Cadwell. From this place,
steamers run regularly to Alexandria, at the north end
of the Lake, a distance of 36 miles. This Lake forms
the division between the counties of Warren and Wash-
ington for that distance, and is one of the most beauti-
ful inland lakes of fresh water in the State. From Al-
exandria, 3 miles stage travel brought me to Ticonde-
roga, which has ever been celebrated as a military post
ot the greatest importance. It is situated on the wes-
tern shore of Lake Champlain. Many desperate con-
flicts have taken place in attempting to get possession
of this important post, during the wars of America.-—
The old fortifications are now famous for their ruins.

A*ii'E(JT or Tin: stath.

253

The city of Ticonderoga contains a population of 2 169,
Crown Point, with a population of 2212, situated
farther down the lake, is a place also celehrated for its
military inn[ortance, its many gallant defences against
the assaults of its enemies, and for the adventures of
General Putnam and Mayor Rogers in 1754<. This is
also the Fort into which the gallant Arnold led in safe-
ty, his weary, Wounded gallant band, by a bridle path
in the dead hour of night, and thus saved thepi from ut-
ter destruction, after his defeat on Valcour Island.

Here I left the State of New York, and Crossed lake
Champlain for the State of Veimoni, Whos*; famoUs
Green Mountams presented to me fuch a grand ap-
pearance, when returning from Cinada, ^y sailing p
the lake, that I determined to traverse them Ir n this
quartet. " ' ' * >••'.• r '-r.-

CHAPTER XXIII.
STATS OF VERIVlbNT.

Aspect ofthe State — Grazing — Vergennes — Burlington — Unl-
- versity-^Streets — Harbour — Manufactures— Green.Mountains
—Onion River Valley — Towr— Agriculture — Montpeliqr—
Mountain Scenery — State-Hu^ , — Towns — Burns — Feeding
Stock — Sheep Barn — Racks or Mangers-^Treatment of Sheep
— Dairy — Milk Barn — Tr .tment of Milch Cows — Butter —
Cheese Room — Maple S «j;ar-»-'Sugar Camp.

In travelling, from the city of Vergennes, through
the State I found that the Green Mountains from which
the State derives its name, on account ofthe evergreens

ASPKCT OF THE STATE.

\'> ■ I

with wliich they are covered, occupy a large portion
of" the State. I found the face of the country M'here it
is not mountainous, agreeably undulating in places,
while in others it is hilly, which asa general thing may
be said of the State. The range of mountains pass thro''
the whole length of the State, about halfway between
lake Cham'plain and the Connecticut river. From these
mountains many streams take their rise. The scenery
of these celebrated mountains with their green fleeces
visible to their towering summits, is truly romantic &
beautiful, the air pure and healthful : and the natives of
the Slate usually known by the name of Green Moun-
tain Boys, famous for their daring exploits in our Rev-
olution, and no less celebrated for their enterprise, in-
telligence, and hospitality.

The soil is dark, rich and loamy. It is admirably
adapted to sustain drought, and affords the finest pastu-
rage in the world. The soil is fertile, and all kinds ot
grain suite.' to the climate, are produced in great abun-
dance. But grazing, however, isthe chief employment
of the inhabitants ; as vast numbers of horses, cattle and
sheep are reared in the State. The traveller on every
hand, could see great herds of cattle and sheep. A-
mong the cattle were numbers of the finest milch cows,
as the dairy receives great attention throughout the
State. On our way to Burlington, the Steamer run in-
to the port of Vergennes, a city witii a population of
1017, which is beautifully" situated at the lower falls
of Otter Creek, celebrated as being the port at which
Commodore McDonough fitted out the fleet that con-
quered the British fleet, on lake Champlain, near Platts-

n u 11 r. I N G Ton.

i>55

burg, (luring the late war with Great Britain. The
creek is navigable to the falls for the largest vessels. —
The falls here afford an excellent water power for man-
ufacturing purposes. The city has some commerce,
which passes through lake Champlain. The place is
well situated and built in an eleo-ant style.

Chittenden county. — Burlington, with a population
of 4271, is the most important city in the State. It is
situated on the shore of lake Champlain, built on a gent-
ly rising slope, overlooking the lake and harbour. —
The city is well built, contains many fine dwellings,
and also several splendid public buildings. There is
here a handsome Court House and other county build-
ings ; also the University of Vermont, the buildings of
which are well built, and the grounds well arranged.
The streets of the city are adorned with avenues of the
locust tree, which were covered with white blossoms
and affording an agreeable shade. The falls of Onion
river, afford an excellent water power, where are some
large and well conducted factories. The city has an
excellent harbour, and is the principal commercial place
on lake Champlain, being admirably situated, and there-
fore commands the commerce of the Lake. From this
place I crossed the Green Mountains, which are com-
posed of chiefly oi the chlorite of schist and granite so far
as rock are concerned. The roads through these Moun-
tains are good, not being very steep ; but owing to the
great height of the mountains, the ascent and descent
are long. The stages running between the city of Bur-
lington and Montpelier the Capital of the State, all have
a team of 6 horses, the better to cli mb the loftv mountains.

'- ■

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y;d

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256

WILLISTON — RICHMOND — BALTOK.

ii a

ii)!l t

Williston and Richmond, one with 1554« inhabitants,
and the other with 1054f, each ofwhicha:eupthe\Til-
ley of the Onion River, in a fertile region of country,
possessing many attractions for a small valley, being
highly and skilfully cultivated, and the whole valley
clothed with a heavy crop of grain and grass. Many
t>f those beautiful little fields contained herds of very
handsome stock, among which were the largest, fattest
and handsomest sheep that I ever saw in my life. In
this State great attention is paid to the rearing of sheep.
■Baitoh, with a population of 4>10, is a very beautiful
little village, pleasantly situated on the left bank of the
Onion river, about half way between the city of Bur-
lington and Montpelier. This little village is surroun-
ded oW every hand by picturesque scenery, which de-
serves all the praise that can be lavished upon it, yet
it is viewed at a considerable distance olT.
* Washington cown^^/.— Watei^burg, with a population
of 1992, and Middlesex with a population of 1270, each
of which are situated still farther up the Onion river.
The town of Middlesex is within 6 miles of the Capi-
tal of the State. The towns are both in a very flour-
ishing condition, though situated in a more rugged re-
gion of country than some of the others, as the country
increases in wildness as you advance toward the source
of the Or^^'on'river.

Montpelier, with a population of 3735, is the Capi-
tal of the State. This town is situated in a truly wild
and rugged region, at the junction of the north & south
branches of the Onion river. In this famous region of
country, the stranger may view mountain scenery (S(

MONTPELIKR.

257

habitants,
p the \Til-

country,
ey, being
)le valley
s. Many
h of very
est, fattest

life. In
g of sheep.
V beautiful
)ank ol the
ty of Bur-
is surroun-
which de-

5on it, yet

• • > » , ■ •

population
1270, each
[lion river,
'the Capi-
very flour-
rugged re-
;he country
I the source

3 the Capi-
truly wild
rth & south
IS region of
scenery df

the most sublime and imposing character on every hand,
among which may be seen Camel's Hump, and the still
loftier Mount Mansfield, whose towering summit stands
conspicuous irom every point ; while immediately a-
round the town, the scenery is wild and rugged indeed,
notwithstanding the town oiMontpelier possesses some
attractions. Here is a State House, a very splendid
granite building, recently erected, which is a structure
possessing great elegance. There is also here a hand-
some Court House, and other county buildings.

After leaving the Capital of Vermont, my course
was still east toward the Connecticut river; and after
travelling through some rugged looking places, brought
us to the towns of Plainfield and Marsfield, the one
with a population of 880, and the other with 1156,
the former 9 and the latter 15 miles from the Capital.
Each of these little places contain some fine buildino-s.
and have quite a promising appearance, presenting al-
so a large share of wild and romantic scenery in their
respective vicinities.

Caledonia county. — Cabot, with 1440 inhabitants, &
Panville, with a population of 2633, are two places
well situated ; the latter being on the east side of the
principal range of mountains. The traveller on arri-
ving at this place, is quite revived at the appearance of
the town, especially alter emerging from the mountain
gorges in the west ; v^hich to some may appear gloomy
and dismal, yet to the student of nature, they furnish a
rich theme for contemplation, as well as other natural
scenery. On the same route are the towns of St. Johns-
bur^: and Waterford, each containino- about 2000 inhab-

■i

I ^ '^

258

nARNS IN VERMONT.

itants; both of which are beautifully situated on the
left side of the Connecticut river, in a fertile region of
country. By the time I arrived at the town of Water-
ford, I traversed the State from west to east, through
the mountain regions, in doing which, I learned the fol-
lowing with regard to barns, the dairy, &c.:

The Barn in this State, is considered the most impor-
tant appendage to the farm ; they are made large enough
to hold all the fodder and animals on the farm. Not a
hoof about the premises is required to brave the noith-
ern winters unsheltered ; but are provided with a tight
roof and a dry bed, as it is contended they will thrive
faster and consume so much less food when thus pr®-
tected, that the owner will be ten-fold renumerated. —
Disease is thus often prevented, and if it occurs, is more
easily cured. The saving of fodder, by placing it at once
under cover when cured, is another great item of con-
sideration. The barns are generally placed on the side
of a hill, inclining to the south or east; an extensive
range of stabling is made below, which is much warm-
er than when constructed of wood above ground, and
the mangers are easily supplied with fodder, which is
stored above. An extensive cellar room is made next
the bank, in which all the roots, such as turnips, pota-
toes, &c., required for the cattle, are safely stored in
front of their mangers, and where they are easily de-
posited from carts through windows, arranged on the
upper side, or scuttlers in the barn floor above. More
room is afforded for hay and fodder by having the sta-
bles below^, and in this way, a large part of the labor of
pitching it on to elevated scaffolds is avoided. The stables

d on thi'
region of
of Waler-
, through
d the fol-

Dst impor-
re enough
hfi. Not a

he noith-
ith a tight
all thrive

thus pr®-
fierated. —
irs, is more
g it at once
jra of con-
on the side

extensive
jch warm-
round, and
•, which is
made next
•nips, pota-
y stored in

easily de-
ged on the
ive. More
ng the sta-
the labor of
The stables

SHEET DARNS

251)

are so arranged as to ke^p perfectly dr}^, as it is conten-
ded and that justly too, that low damp premises are in-
jurious to the health of animals.

Every consideration is given to the saving of manure.
The stables have drains, that will carry ofTthe liquid e-
vacuations to a muck-heap or reservoir ; and whatever
manure is thrown out is carefully protected by a low
roof, projecting several feet over the manure heap which
is a good practice ; as it thus prevents waste from sun
and rains. The mangers are so constructed as to econ-
omize the fodder, which is generally done by box-feed-
ing for cattle, which is preferred ; as in addition to hay,
roots, and meal may be fed in them without loss, and
with over-ripe hay, a great deal of seed may in this way
be saved, as well as the fine leaves and small fragments
of hay which are also kept from waste, which by racks,
are generally lost by falling on the floor or ground. —
When a rack is used, it is provided with a shallow box
underneath extending the whole length of the rock, in-
to which the seed, leaves and small fras;ments of hav
fall, and are thereby secured from loss.

The sheep barn is generally built upon a hill side,
constructed with three floors over each other, with
space enough between each for sheep to pass through ;
and above the third floor is room for the storage of fod-
der. This sheep house has three side walls, and theo-
pen side is to the south, with sliding or swinging doors,
to guard against storms. The floors are made perfectly
tight, and the two on which the sheep stand, are con-
structed with gutters, to carry off the wine. The troughs
are usually made of two boards, 12 inches wide, nailing

.: I

■ lU

•■1

■'I'siTHIl-

'If

1^i

'i
If

i, »

260

TREATMENT OF SHEEP.

tlie lower side of one upon the edge of the other, fas-
tening both into two or three inch plank, about 18 in-
ches long, with notches in the upper edge for the trough.
In addition to the houses for sheltering sheep, there
may be seen about the premises racks or mangers. The
first consists of a common rack, or rather two racks,
placed together, forming an angle of about 25 degrees,
placed on a broad trough, which is situated near the
ground, so the sheep can reach over it to the rack ; this
trough catches the fine hay and seed which falls in
feeding. The second apparatus consists simply of a
kind of box, constructed by taking 6 light pieces of
scantling, 3 inches square, one for each corner and one
for the centre of each side ; to which boards 12 or 14
inches wide and 12 or 15 feet long are nailed on the
bottom of the posts for the sides, which are separated
by similar boards, 3i feet long, this forms the width of
the trough. Boards 12 inches wide are nailed 9 or 12
inches above these plank, thereby leaving a space for
the sheep to reach in for their food, and yet prevent
them from ojettino; on it with their feet. The eds^es of

DO O

ttie upper and lower boards are made perfectly smooth,
to prevent chafing the wool.

The people of this State have their sheep brought in-
to winter quarters soon after the severe frosts occur,
as these diminish the feed and materially impair i!:s
nutritious qualities. They are also removed from the
grass lands before they become permanently softened
by the rains, as they will injuriously effect their com-
fort and health, and is equally objectionable from their
poaching the sod. The chief food for their great

)ther, fas-
>out 18 in-
he trough,
eep, there
lorers. The
two racks,
25 degrees,
d near the
J rack ; this
ich falls in
imply of a
t pieces of
nerand one
Is 12 or U
died on the
•e separated
he width of
died 9 or 12
a space for
^et prevent
The edges of
jctly smooth,

p brought in- li
frosts occur,
ly impair its
ved from the
tly soflened
ct their com-
ble from their
their great

TjiLAtMEN'f or SUECr.

261

jf sheep in wintc^r, is ripe, sound timothy hay.

bean and pea straw, which if properly cured, they pre-
fer to the best hay ; to which are added roots of various
kinds, with a full supply of salt, grain being seldom fed
to stote-sheep, and then no other than Oats, with a lull
supply of good straw, as grain is olyected to for sheep,
unless attended with common straw. There is placed
within their reach, sulphur, ashes, tar and clay, at which
they frequently nibble when their stomach required ei-
ther. Pine boughs are also strongly recommended, not
only as a substitute lor tar, but as airording a most
healthful change in the winter food for sheep* It is
also recommended that entire cleanliness and dryness
are essential to the health of ibe flock. Sheep cannot
long endure close confinement without injury ; there-
fore the greatest attention is paid by these people to
their sheep* In all ordinary weather, they are allow-
ed to fun in a Well enclosed yard attached to the sheep-
barn, which to a considerable extent, shields them from
the bleak wtnds of those northern regions. The sheep
when brought to the yards in the fall of the year, are
divided into flocks of 50 to 100, according to the size
of the yard anci sheep barn. The young and feeble
ones are separated from the others, and the ailing ones
placed to themselves, so that no one may suffer from
the others; all are classed as uniformly as possible, as
to be supplied with a trough of water.

The Dairy in this State, receives the greatest atten-
tion as it has long been celebrated for the excellence
of its butter and cheese. The southetn stranger views
with surprise, the extent and perfection the driiry here

;f J

ii-m

D iV 1 R V .

attains. Hero almost every dairyman possesses 20, 30
and even 40 of the handsomest and most valuable cows ;
the whole of which in winter are kept in good stables,
fed on roots, and good hay, and when straw is fed,
some meal is added, so as to make the keeping equal to
good hay. From the 1st of March they feed about 2
quarts of corn or barley meal to each cow per day, un-
til the pasture is good ; and during the summer they are
put up morning and evening in a milking barn, near &
convenient to the cheese room, where they are led the
whey with meal. The milk barn is constructed with
an alley through the middle ; and the covvs therefore
stand in two rows; one row on each side of the allev.
The whey runs from a box or cistern in the cheese
room, into a vat in the alley of the milk barn, at one
end of which is a meal bin. The whey and meal are
mixed and put in troughs on the right and left. The
head of the alley is some 12 or 15 feet from the cheese
rooms ; over this distance is a floor laid to walk on, and
a roof over so that persons can pass from the milk baro
to the cheese room and milk house without being ex-
posed to rain or mud. Milking is here considered a
very important operation, as on its proper performance
depends much of the success of the dairyman. A cow
regularly, gently, yet quickly and thoroughly milked,
will give much more than if neglected. An indiffer-
ent milker is never tolerated in a herd, by these cele-
brated dairymen, as they declare that good ones are
cheaper at double price.

I here learned for the first time that activity and rest
of the cow have a great effect on both quantity and

' i

Ct'l

' i

wii

anc

- I

sai(

(]Ui

wai
])rol

cor

cus

listj

ii-oi

ach

tie

oCl

TuEAT^lENT OF MILCU COWS.

263

sscs 20, 30
able cows ;
ood stables,
raw is fed,
nor equal to
;cd about 2
per day, un-
ner they are
barn, near &
y are ted the
Lructed with
vvs therefore
of the alley,
a the cheese

barn, at one
and meal are
ad left. The
Dm the cheese
D walk on, and

the milk barQ

lOut being ex-
considered a
r performance
rman. A cow
ughly milked,
An indiffer-
by these cele-
o-ood ones are

ictivity and rest
h quantity and

quality of the milk. It is here declared, the less ac-
tion and the more quiet and rest, the greater the a*
mount of milk and better. IJut exercise is absolutely
essential to the production of cheese. J3uttcr may be
made from cows confined in the stable, but cheese can
only be profitably made by animals at pasture. It is
also contended that excitement or Iretfulness, change
of locality or to a di/Tercnt herd, with new companions,
separation from her calf, periodical heat, annoyance
from flies, or worrying from, dogs, exposure to stems,
severe cold or an oppressive sun, and many similar cau-
ses, diminish the quantity of milk.

The mode of churning butter is by a barrel-cliurn,
lately introduced into she State. This is placed in a
trough of water of the proper temperature, in which
the churn revolves when required, and thus readily re-
ceives the degree of heat required by the milk or cream,
without the necessity of adding warm water to the cream
and churns the whole in ten or fifteen minutes. It is
said also to give a larger weight of butter from the same
quantity of milk. The churning is performed slow in
warm weather, and quick in cold weather, that the
proper temperature may be kept up.

The cheese-room, at first presented to me a scene of
considerable interest. In making the rennet, different
J customs prevail. The most common custom, however,
[is to take the entire stomach and to pour upon them
from two to three quarts of pure water, for each stom-
ach, and allow them to infuse for several days, when
|lhe infusion is skimmed and strained, and a decoction
)f leaves added, such as those of the swqet-briar, the

;t;ti

i f

t, ■ '

^64

cUiitsii iioo>t»

,o,.-ose ana U. -"l'''- -J^ot cl^^^^^^^^^^^^
e.;, while others '^Z^^- ^^^^^Z^ adopted for the
brandy. These va-- P-* ^ ,^,,,.. ,f ...ening

purpose of -f ;;;;S '^^/^"ventiug any unpleasant taste
its anpleasanl smell, p ,, .^p^o-

, ml.ht give to ^f-" Jj;«"=it acidUy of the lea-
ving the ^-]''\°^^'Z' ,1^ the coagulating l>owe>
on will no doubt .ncieaso a ^^^ _^^^,,^,

of any rennet to ^vh.ch t inaj •) .^ ^^^

thus prepared, is poured nto the m .^_ ^^^

^ to the temperature of 90 die ^^^ j^^

quantity which is nece^ary to f ^J; ^^.^^ ,, half a
quality of the ^^^"^^y^Zlm Th. time necessa-

naked fire, owing to 't« §"="' ^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ „, I

ged or fire-fanged ; ^^-h ^P .^ ^^^^.^^^^
,he cheese more o^^ ess J ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^.„ ,„,

edina '*'F ^°"t ,, Ifter the manner of a glue pel,
within an '^o" ^^^" ?' ^ '^ bein^ filled with water, and
the space between ^^^'^°^l:,^^,^ ao Injury to the
can never by any ordinary n , ^^ ^^^ ^J

„,,. ,n th^s manner ma^y of O^se^^^ ^^^^^

rymen ^«™ *"„ ""T^.^nty-fivc thousand pounds ol

T'^ ^Tn 2 'i^^ wl^ch'they receive from sU .
cheese annuaiiy> i*^* i

seven cents per y^^^l^' . ^^ j^ihis State to a vet;
staple Sugar is manufa - d ^^^ .

onslderable extent. It «3 esun .

M A r I, i: «- I- (.; A j{ .

2[ij

^eive from six to

is over 1U,00(),OUO )ljs. annually ; mmicIi of which h
Kold ill the city of .Now Vurk. In .some sections of the
State, tho su;^^ar maple usurps ahnost the entire soil,
standing side by side, like thick ranks ofcorn, yet largw
and lofty, and among the noulest specimens of the for-
est. Their tops are graceful and bubhy like the culti-
vated tree, and hut for their nuinhcrs, the extent they
occupy, and their more picture;sque grouping, one would
think the hand of taste had directed what nature alone
"has accomplished. The season for drawing andchrys-
taiizing the sap, is in early Spring, when the bright
sunny d^iys and clear frosty nights give it a full and
lapid circulation. The largest trees are generally se-
lected and tapped by an inch auger to the depth of an
inch arill a half, the hole inclining downward to hold
the sap. At the base of this, another is made, in which
a tube of elder or sumach is closely fitted to cor\duct it
off. A rude contrivance for catching the sap is with
troughs, made usually of easily wrought poplar. When
the sugar season is over, the holes, ?\re closely plugged
and the head cut off evenly with the bark, which soon
grows over the wound and thus preserves the tree with-
out any apparent injury. The barbarous, slovenly
mode of half girdling the trunk with an axe, which
soon destroys it, is here never performed. The sugar
Qamps .are arranged v^-ith large receiving troughs, pla-
ced near the fires, capable of holding several hundred
gallons of sap, and the boiling kettles suspended on 'long
poles, supported by crotches. The sap ;ls strained be-
fore hoiling, and well skinuiied while boiling, after

"vhlch it is again slrained and put into a tub and let
^12

ill
• il

:J-i

i ' :•'' 'I

i66

ASPECT OF THE STATE*

stand till cold. It is frequently clarified with thowhitrs
oi'fivo or six e^gs, well beaten in about a quart ofnetv
milk, and a spoonful ol'salaeratus to each 100 lbs of su-
gar. After it is Avcll granulated, it is put into boxes
made smallest at the bottom, each holding about 50 lbs j
each cask box having a false bottom, perforated with
small holes, for the piu'pose of draining out the molai-
ses. The various aj)paratuses and processes connected
with the sugar-camp, present some points of interest to
a pei:son unaccustomed to like scenes.

CHAPTER XXIV.

II ii

r .4

STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.

Aspect of the State — Distant View of the White Mountains —
Villaf^es — White Mountains — Mount Washington — Ascent to
tlie Summit — Sublime Scenery — Notch- River Saco-Uncqual-
led Character of the Scenery — Course of the River Saco — Wild-
noss of the Region — Towns — Lake Winnepiseogeo

This State has acquired the names of Granite State
and the Switzerland of America. I soon found her to
be justly entitled to both of the above names ; for the
traveller from other States, after seeing her lofly moun-
tains, grand lakes of fresh water, and granite quarries,
will at once acknowledge that both of the titles arejust-
ly hers. The country on the coast is level, but in the
interior the surface is greatly diversified by hills and
valleys. — And at a distance of about 25 miles from the
coast, the country becomes more hilly and mountain-
ous. The inhabitants of the State are principally en-

WlllTU MOINTAIN'S.

267

gaj^od in agriculture, which art, I think they urc per-
fectly master of, judj^ing from the heavy crops of rrtl
kinds of grain and grass which cover the brows of the
high sloping hills which meet the eye on every side.

(I'rafton county, — I now travelled in an eastern di-
rection for the White Mountains, whose towerincr sum-
mits stood conspicuous to my gazc^, long before I enter-
ed the imitate. In approaching those far-famed moun-
tains from the Connecticut river, I passed tlit-ough the
towns of Littleton and Ijetlileham, the former with 1778
inhabitants, and the latter with about 1,000, facing the
White Mountains, being a very beautiful little villao-e,
situated about half way between the Connecticut river
and the base of the White Mountains, to which there
is a very good stage road.

Coos county, — The scenery in the celebrated IVhite
mountains is grand beyond description. This sublimd
scene consists of six or eight towering peaks, distin-
guished by the namesof Washington, Franklin, Adams,
Jefferson, Madison, Monroe and Pleasant. The high-
est of these peaks is Mount Washington, which is 6428^^
feet in height. The ascent to the summit of this Mount
is attended with considerable fatigue ; but the wild ancl
sublime character of the scenery induces a stranger to*
climb upward and onward, till he gains the summit
when all is richly repaid, and his fatigue appearently
in a moment vanishes, by the view which is rendered
uncommonly grand and picturesque, by the magnitude'
of the elevation, the extent and variety of the surroun-
ding scenery, which is wild, picturesque and sublime
on every hand. To an admirer of the wonders of Na-

fl!

'; ■ :^

III i

i' ?"

268

WKITIC MOUNTAlXfi-

'iure, this scene truly afibrds a rich theme for cont^em-
plation, not only a view irom the siimirjit with its huge
and desolate piles of rock,extending to a great distance
in every direction far beneath your feet, but also a pas-
sage through the notch, which is equally interesting to
a student of nature.

The far-farned Notch of the White Mountains, ^is sit-
uated at the western pass. Here the mountain seems
to be divided into two parts from the top to the bottom.
This deep narrow chasm is about two miles long, and
affords a passage, through which the river Saco rujjs
^which is joined below the N.otch by Lawyers river.-4-
Through the Notch there is a road constructed, which
'is the only practicable route for carriages across the
mountain barrier. Though fatii^iuino; as it is to climb
=■10 the summits of these famous mountains, hundreds of
travellers visit the State every year to enjoy the mag-
nificent prospect from the top of Mount Washington,
•while thunder storms are often seen far beneath their
•feet. But they can stand upon this towering pinnacle,
and view with perfect safety, the grand and sublime
display of Nature, which for the kind are perhapswith
Hhe exception of the Andes in South America, without
a parallel on the Western Hemisphere.

The air on the summits of these great mountains is
generally cold and chilling to the stranger. This is
'however not to be wondered at as they are crowned
-with snow for about ten months in the j^ear. Down
the Saco river, at the southern extremity of the princi-
pal group of mountains, is situated the town of Bartlet,
CQJitaining a population of 70(!. At this place a con-

'2\0

tsjdicrable mountain L'ireani oiiis the river Sacu, \v!io?e
seneral course iVoui the tjcti h to tlu' \i{!a:''t' is ricar-v
due east ; behnv which 'it U a^ain juiMCti \>y anoihi r
consick'rable stroam, wiieii \i heiulj its rour>e nearly
due south, tiil it is ivjiiu-d bv Swiii river, wiicii ita-'wiu
runs east into the Siatc ol'IMuiiir.

Carrol co:/?iljj. — 7'he next ^iila:^^ oii the river Sa

CO.

is the beauliru.l lilt'o villa^j? ofConvv-ay, located on the
ri^-ht bank of th.3 riv(>r, 7 iiiil.-j below tho town oi'Bart-
let. Eich of fne^e ^i!Ia^es ij situated in a \vi!d and
rugged region of country, possessing no attractions in
the a2;riculturdl v.fav i vet the wild and sublime char-
acter of the mountains is admired by all. To the soutli

ofth

e viliaa'e of Conwav, is

thv^ t

own o

fOs

SSI pee, w

•ith

a popuLation ol 2170, situated near \Vinnepiseog(H^
lake on the southern border of the county.

Lake VVinnepisecgee i'S truly one of the most beau-
tiful lakes of water tfiat our country can produce; im-
bosomrn^ numerous islands and surrounded bv a conn-
try abounding in romantic scenery. A ride down this
lake which is 2i miles long, will repay the expense
tenfold. I very much doubt v.'belher thi.s bcauliful
lake has a parallel on the face of the Clobe, so far as T
have been able to learn respecting the lak(^s of Kurope
and other poittons of the world. I think 1 am safe in
advancing that the beauty of lake AVinnepiseog(H^ (ov
exceeds that of the iamous Lock I^omond, of Scotland
itself.

Jlsl

; I

i '!

270

ASPECT OF TUK STATIf^

C II A P T E R XXV.

STATE OF IViAIME.

Aspoct of the State — Seba^o Pond — Towns — Portl;tnd — Streets
— Uity Hail— Custom House — Churches — Athenaeum — Har-
bor — Fortilicatioiis — Break Wale" — Li'l't House — ObHcrvato-
ry — Commerce — TuMle Slicll- Railroad i'/rid^e-Hotel-Stcani"
er General VVan''cij — lOifocts of the Sea Iweezc — Cities — Au-
gusta — State House — Arsenal — Towns — Batigor — Manufac-
tures — [iridg'o — Lumber — Theological Seminary — Old Town
— Calaip — Dense Fogs — llivcr St. Cro.x — I'orests — St. An-
drew's — Fisheries — St. John — WJiarves — -Lunucr — Ship
Building' — Coal-Fiolds.

Sjon after entering the State of Maine, the most nor-
thern anil eastern of the United Slates, I found the face
of the country pretty generilly either uiuln'atin:^ oi-
hilly, except the coast alono; the southern p:u*t of it
which is tolerable level. The population is chiefly in
the southern section, within (50 or 70 miles of the coat>t :
as the central parts of the State contain numerous
mountains, and a lar^e portion of it as yet remains a
forest, which the inhabitants consider valuable ior its
lumbei', which is one of the chief products of the coun-
try. The soil is various ; much of it is however fertile,
but in general it is better adapted for grazing than til-
lage ; you will however observe some good farms high-
ly cultivated. The coast is remarkably indented with
bays and harbors, afFording great facilities for commerce
and fijhci.ies, which the inhabitants engage in very ex-
tensively.

Cuj^hciiand county, — The firwt object worthy of no-
tjce after entering this county, was Sebago Poud, s\i\\i

PORTLAND CITY.

271

Si reels

-tJar-
fscrvato-

Stcam-
es — Au-

anufac-
1 Town
St. An-
■ — Sliij)

)st nor-
he face
\\n^ or
rt of it
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imerous
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ated about 12 miles with its southern extremity, from
the city of Portland. This famous Pond, so lar as I
couldjudge, is about 7 or 8 miles long from north to
south and about 4 miles wide ; the waters of which are
drawn out r»t the south-eastern side of the pond by the
Presumpscut river, which carries its waters with oth-
ers into the Bay of Casco ; which are admired for their
transparency. Between Sebago Pond and the city of
Portland, is the town of Gorham, with a population of
3011, situated in the vicinity of the Pond, and is a very
flourishing town, containing some fine dwellings and
several handsome churches. Within 6 miles of the
city of Portland is the village of Sacarappa, which is
really a pleasant little place.

Portland, with a population of 152 IS, is very beau-
tifully situated on Casco Bay, I •14' miles north east of
the city of Boston. The city of Portland occupies high
and commanding ground. The city was entirely de-
stroyed by the British in 1775, and the present city
did not receive a charter until the year 1832; and is
now a very beautiful place, being regularly laid out; the
streets are broad and handsomely ornamented with shade
trees of the choicet species. The public buildings are
a City Hall, a large and splendid granite structure, sur-
mounted by a dome, which can be ascended with ease
jiud safety, and an excellent view of the city is there-
by obtained. A large and elegant Custom House con-
structed of granite, is situated conveniently to the har-
bor, which is a structure celebrated for it.^ strength and
the beauty of its architecture. A Court House, a hand-*
some granite edifice, is situated on very beautiful ground,

'272

roRTi.AND nrv.

■ir'i

which is tastefully laid out and adorned with shade
trees of a rare species. There are here 6 Banks and
16 large and splendid churches, some of which are
constructed of granite, some of brick, and others are
frame, highly finished and whitened. The Atheneuni,
at this place contains upwards of 5000 volumes.

The city has a mosi. splendid harbor, defended by two
forts, situated on high and commanding ground, so that
every foot ol space at the entrance of the harbor, could
oe raked by the cross-fireing from these fortifications.
The entrance of the harbor is also protected by two
long and powerful stone piers,, constructed as a Break-
water to defend the vessels while in the harbor from
floatino; ice, and the hi2"h waves from the Ocean. There
is also at the entrance of the harbor, a stone light-house,
built to the height of 72 feet, from the top of which
there is a delightful view of the Bay and the Ocean be-
yond', when the fogs will permit a view, wbrcli how-
ever were so dense, a large portion of the time I re-
mained in the city, that a distant view of no object
could be had with distinctness. There is also an Ob-
servatory erected on high and commanding ground, a
short distance above the city ; it is constructed of tim-
ber, 70 feet in height, and shingled from the ground to
tlti6 top; the summit is gained by ascending a circular
stair-case within, and when the summit is gained, it af-
fords a lovely prospect on a clear day, of the whole
city and the surrounding waters and lands.

The city has an extensive foreign and coasting trade ;
the inhabitants are also very extensively enp-aoredin the
fisheries. On her numcicor»s loner wharves the strang-ev

WllAR-VliS AND feTKKKT.

»/ 1 1 »

lYiay see fish of almost every kind, without nuiiibor
from five pounds weight up to sixty and seventy pounds,
together with ship loads of oysters and lobsters with
numerous turtles, many weighing over 100 pounds each.
On the main street of the city, a few doors south of the
United States Hotel, I saw a turtle shell suspended o-
ver the door of an oyster saloon, which contained the
figures 221, in large and conspicuous characters to point
out to the passing stranger the weight of the turtle.

To the north*east of the city, there is a railroad bridgp
one mile and a quarter in length, constructed over an
estuary of the Bay, over which thcr- are two railway
tracks, which is the property of the Company construct-
ing a railroad from the city of Toitland to the St. Law-
rence in Lower Canada, for the purpose of forming a
connection with the city of Montreal. This hridge has
a causeway of about 300 yards at each end ; and be-
tween the causeways it is built of timber being suppor-
ted by thousands of pillars ; on which the tide rises a-
bout 8 feet, twice a day. The bridge is so constructed
in the centre as to permit of being opened for ships to
pass through to the north part of the city. The part
of the bridge which opens is on the principles of a door
upon its hinges, and the apparatus by which the open-
ing is effected is on the order of a common jack-screw.
A man on ttie bridge, by means of an iron lever opens
the tracks to the right and left, similar to two barn
doors opening from each other. The man by simply
turning his lev^r in a reverse direction wheels the
tracks inwards to their proper places, then raises his le-
ver out of its locket and drops it on the floor, when all
If)*

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It T E L .

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is again rrady for iho cars to pass on either track.
While in this city, I had the misfortune of getting
the worst fare of any place during the whole of my
tour. The first Hotel at which I put up after my arri-
val in the city was kept by a foreigner ; the appearance
of the House might be called tolerable ; I however was
not a little surprised when called to the table to which
I seated myself with more reluctance than to any I ev-
er seated myself in all my life; the bread and butter
which thev bouo;ht and therefore had no hand in ma-
king or preparing, was good, which I could make out
to swallow by not looking at the other dishes on the
table; which consisted in part of one very large dish in
the centre of the table, which to all appearance con-
I'^ined Irish potatoes, clams, oysters, lobsters, bread, pork,
beef, fish, mutton, fowl, cabbage, carrots, squashes, beans^
tomatoes, onions, garlic and the Lord knows what else,
all boiled together, and heaped on this mammoth dish,
which emitted a vapor or steam almost equal to a small
coal-pit. By the smell Df this multifarious hotch-potch,
I presume it would have made very little difference
which was selected, as the probability is they all tas-
ted alike ; beef tasted like mutton and mutton like beef,
oysters were onions and the onions were oysters ; cab-
bages were carrots and the carrots cabbages. This dish
was surrounded by several other dishes which contain-
ed cold beans, which were thatstiffand toueh that a man
might as well have attempted to digest a quart oftrain
oil. After rising from the table, I like Bruce, of course
paid the bill and quit the inn.
The steamer General \yarren now carried us to the

CITIES.

i>75

city of Augusta, the Capital of the State. This was
the only route where the sea breeze e/Tectcd me •. and
so violent were the effects that I was compelled to keep
my berth, and remain within the State room during the
sailing of the Steamer. Much of my sickness I attrib-
uted to the rocking of the steamer, which exceeded ev-
ery other boat in rocking, rolling and plunging through
the agitated billows, that I witnessed during tlie whole
of my voyages ; though in every way a very splendid
boat manned by an excellent crew. The narrowness
of its construction, J considered one great cause of its
being more easily rocked to and fro by the waves.

Our Steamer stopped at the port of the city of Bath,
which contains a population of 5141 inhabitants. The
city is beautifully situated on the left bank oftheKen-
nebeck river, about 15 miles from the Ocean and below
the juncture of the Androscoggin river with the Kea-
nebeck, at the head of navigation for the largest class
of ships. This place is celebrated for its ship building,
which is here carried on very extensively. A lew
hours spent at this place cannot fail to be interesting &
instructive.

Kennebeck county. — The next place at which we
touched was at the city of Gardiner, containing a pop-
ulation of 5042. This is a very beautiful city, built
on the left bank oi the river, containing some very
handsome buildings ; among which are several of the
most splendid churches to be found in New England.
The town is situated in a fertile and delightful region
of country, possessing many inviting points. Soon af-
ter leaving Gardiner, we touched at the pier of Hallo-

:!':

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27(J

CITli:S AND TO\Vi\S»

iii'i^:

Avell, situated 2 miles helow the Capitol. This phcc
is famous for its splondid granite and marble, amoncr
the vast heaps of which the stranger if not cautious,
would almost lose his way.

Auoiusta, the Capital of the State, contains a popula-
tion of 5.31 G. The town is beautifully situated on both
sides of the river, about 50 miles from its mouth at the
head of Sloop navigation, in the midst of a fertile and
handsome region of country. The city contains a very
splendid State House, constructed of granite in a neat,
elerr^xni and tasteful manner ; the site beins; adorned with
beau'iful shade trees. The United States Arsenal at
this place, presents objects which may be vic^ved for
an hour or two with considerable interest. At this
place there is constructed a strong and powerful dam a-
cross the Kennebeck river, which has created numer-
ous excellent mill sites, a portion of which are occupi-
ed b}^ mills of various sorts ; with more than a due por-
tion of Saw Mills where vast quantities of lumber may
be seen all of an excellent quality. Vast lorests are
said to exist to the north of the Capital.

Waldo county. — Between the Capital and the Pe-
nobscot Bay, in a due easterly direction, were the towns
of Windsor, and Liberty, Belmont nnd Belfast ; the three
first having a population of about 2000 inhabitants each,
and the latter upwards of 4000, being a chartered city,
located on the Penobscot Bay near its iiead, possessing
a delightiul harbor. The city has considerable trade
which is chiefly in fish and lumber. It possesses many
attractions for an eastern port, having a lertile section
of country, stretching back to the westward which pre-

^-sl

C I T I K ?! .

sentecl an attractive appearance from the city and riv-
er. From the pier at Belfast, a Steamer took us up the
Penobscot river for the city of Bangor. When about
to enter the mouth of the river \vc could see Castine
on the opposite side of the head of the Bay, beautifully
situated on a fine peninsula, noted for its military posi-
tion. Up the river are the beautiful cities of Backs-
port and Frankford, each having; about 5000 inhabit-
ants. In sailing up the river we could see vast quan-
tities of lumber at certain points, besides great quanti-
ties which were regularly passing us ; we being scarce-
ly ever out of sig-ht of lumber ships.

The city of Bangor, with a population of8627, is sit-
uated on the left bank of the Penobscot river. The
city is divided into two parts by the Kenduskcag riv-
er, which forms a junction with the former river at
this place. The Kenduskeag having here a very con-
siderable fall, affords a vast water power which iji ap-
plied to manufacturing purposes. This city is the chief
seat of the lumber trade : immense quantities of the
very best of lumber are rafted down the river from this
place. The lumber trade is said to be a source of great
wealth to those engaged in it. It is an enterprise
which seems almost inexhaustible, as vast forests of ex-
cellent timber abound in the northern part of the State,
and particularly toward the source of the Penobscot
river. The city contains some fine buildings private &
public ; among the public buildings may be named the
Bangor Theological Seminary, opened in 1816, origi-
nally called the Maine Charity School ; it being under
the direction of Cono-refjationalists.

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CITIES.

■'^''^ iiiiiil

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Bangor is well situated lor trade, the Penobscot be-
ing navigable to this place for the largest vessels. There
is here a bridoje across the river which is 1320 A. ioii",
erected at a cost of $50,000.

A Railroad of 11 miles in length, connects Old Tcwn
with Bangor, passing through Orono a town of 1521
inhabitants, vhich little place is famous for its numer-
ous Saw-Mills. Feitile and delightful belts of land
border on the Penobscot river, which have the appear-
ance of being highly and advantageously cultivated. —
Old Town is situated on an Island in the Penobscot
river, about 40 miles from its mouth ; more usually
known by the name of Indian Old Town, noted as be-
ing the spot upon which the Penobscot Indians took
up their abode after their defeats and almost utter de-
struction by the white people of the Colony: who left
only the remnant of about three hundred persons of that
powerful tribe of Indians, owing to their brutal obsti-
nacy, and the savage massacres they inflicted on the
people of the Colony. The country between Old Town
and Calais, possesses few attractions. Calais is a town
of 2924 inhabitants, at the lower falls of the St. Croix,
and is noted for its numerous saw-mills, and its immense
traffic in lumber which is here sawed and shipped to
the various ports of the New England States. In con-
tinuing our course east from this place, we arrived in
the Province of New Bruswick. The nearer we ap-
proached St. John's the denser became the fog which
rendered travelling somewhat unpleasant as well as
dangerous ; because the fog at times was so dense that
the pilots of boats could not see the lights or lamps on

f eries

.\EW liRUNbWICK.

279

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of 1521
numor-
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appear-
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enobscot
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ipped to
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the boats till thoy come almost in contact with each
other, much less could th^y see the li^ht-house with
its lamp, which is placed t9 guide them round danger-
ous points, which is rendered still more dangerous, ow-
ing to the coast of the State of Maine and the Province
of New Brunswick being so remarkably indented with
Bays and Harbors.

The colony is situated to the east of the State of Maine,
separated from it by the St. Croix river for a consider-
able distance on the west. The colony is but partial-
ly cleared, and contains extensive forests which furnish
large quantities ot excellent timber. The soil along the
banks of the river St. John is of an excellent quality,
and is said to be of a good quality throughout the pro-
vince. Owing to the dense fogs I did not examine
the country off from the river St. John.

The city ol St. Andrews containing a population of
about 20,000, situated at the head of Passammaquoddy
Bay, is a place of great trade in lumber, and is the sec-
ond city in trade and population in New Brunswick. —
There are many of its inhabitants employed in the fish-
eries ; and perhaps an equal number in the lumber
trade, which is carried on to a great extent ; which is
the chief article of export, from which the population
of the city derive their principal support; which to-
gether with the fisheries constitutes almost the sole sup-
port of the inhabitants of the place as well as many, o-
ther cities and towns in the Province, which is said to
render ample reward to all engaged in it. The city ol
St. Johns, with a population of 25000, is the most im-
portant city in New Brunswick: it is beautifully situa-

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280

ST. JOHN f ; I T V .

ted on a fine Bay, at the mouth of the river St. Johi:,
The city has a very extensiife commerce, and is verv
largely engaged in the fisneries and the lumber trade.
The fisheries are a source of considerable wealth, and
employ many of the inhabitants. The stranger can seo
scores and hundreds of fishing smacks and boats ajv
proach the wharves when they come sufficiently near
to be seen for the fog which obscures them till wifcliin
a few rods of the landing, all of which are always loa-
ded with the finest of fishes. — The lumber trade is
also a source of oreat wealth ; vast quantities of timber
are cut down in n'inter and draorged on the snow to the

river, where it is formed into rafts on the ice, and float-
ed down when the ice m.elts in the Spring. Ship-build-
incr is also carried on to a o-reat extent which is ot it-

D O

self a considerable curiosity, in seeing the subjects of
the already Queen of the Ocean, rearing their scores
of ships amid a great dockyard, rendered rugged with
lumber of the best quality.

Before my arrival at the city of St. Johns, my idea
^▼as to ascend the river St. John to Fredericktown,tho
Capital of tfie Province j but owing to the unpleasant
fogs which would obscure more or Jess the scenery for
85 miles up each bank of the river I declined the idea,
and contented myself with going no farther into the
Province than to some of the coal fields near at hand,
which are wrought to a considerable extent ; but owing
to the inclemency of the weather, the scenery did not
repay very richly the fatigue and exposures attending
the visit ; we therefore returned to the city and again
viewed the great theatre of lumber and fish among which

KAY or r[M)V.

•281

•er St. Johi).

and is verv
umber trado.

wealth, and
anger can see

coulil be seen «0Mie points of attraction, which were
not only cnterlainiii;^ t)ut to some extent instructive.
Hut we soon jrot tired ol hjm'xn- and fi!^!l, and prepared
to cross the cek-brated Bay of Fiuul y i'oi the Province
of Nova Scotia.

Clf A P T E R X X V I .

NOVA SCOTIA.

Bay ofFunily — A?oniiisula of Xuva Scotia — Amulpoli^! — Clifls —
Itnd Mud— Foot I'liiits of Birds— Muddy waters oftlic Bay of
Fundy — Cape Blomidon — lli^li Tides ofilie Bity (jf Fundy —
The ]}uro — Awtul grandeur of the Bore — Einbankincnts —
Cliffs of Sandstone — I'.irallel Furrows in Sandstone — Latitude
— Masses of Jco — Basiu of Mines — Minurndie — Clitfs of Soutli
Joijjrins — Ileii^Iit oftlieClilf — Grindstone Ledges — Frect Fos-
sil Trees — Coal Seams — V arioiis Ledges of the Clifl' — Number
of Fossil Trees — Destructive Action ef the Tides of the Bay of
Fundy — Hasty Conclusion as to the formation of the Clifl'.

The o;rcat Bav of Fiindv is situated between New
Bninsvvick and ISova Scotia, and ahnost cuts off the
latter from the main land: and therefore forming Nova
Scotia into a large peninsula ITSO nnles long and from
f)0 to a 100 miles wide, 'i'he Jky of Fundy is cele-
brated for its tides, which rise GO and 70 feet in per-
pendicular height ; and so rapid is its rise that even
cattle feeding on the shore are overtiiken very often &,
drowned. The tide often comes up at first with a lof-
ty wave called the Bore. The waters are of a red mud-
dy color throughout the whole Bay ; but rather more
muddy along the shores, perhaps ovting to the impeta-

•

.^^^

282

JJAY OF FUNDY.

t ,:4''

osity ol its waves which become charged with red sod.
iment by undermining clifls of red sandstone and soft
red marl of which the banks are composed.

Nova Scotia is situated south-east of New Brunswick
and usually known to strangers by its least favorable
side owing to its being enveloped in a dense fog a large
portion of the year ; it has nevertheless the merit ol af-
fording some ol the best harbors in the world. Its nor-
thern coast also contains some verv fertile sections of
lands well adapted to the cultivation of wheat and oth-
er grains ; potatoes of the finest quality are raised in
vast quantities. The face of the country is generally
undulating, and more than half the southern portion
of the peninsula consists ol granite rocks.

Annapolis, a flourishing city situated on a fine hai'-
bor nearly opposite the city of St. Johns, has consider-
able trade, which is however chiefly in the fisheries.
At this place commence a range of cliffs of soft sand-
stone, capped by a mass of basalt, and greenstone. —
This mass presents fine ranges of rude columns in the
bold precipices, facing northwards and running many
miles east and west.

Wolfville, a town situated off the Bay of Fundy,
northeast from the city of Annapolis, is well built and
located on a fine site. The principal object of attrac-
tion at this place, is the red mud along the shore of the
bay, the upper surface of which is usually smooth, ex-
cept in some places it is pitted over with small cavi-
ties, which I was informed was due to showers of rain
which fell regularly every day ;. at least during my stay.
In addition to the smaller cavjties due to rain, thcrp

FooTPniNTs OP nnii)?.

'2S'A

were larger ones, more perfectly circular, about the
size of a rifle-ball, which have been lormed by air bub-
bles in the mud, which presented a singular appearance.

A little farther up the Bay could be seen worm-like
tracks, made by Annelides, which burrow in the mud,
and what was still more interesting to me, the distinct
footmarks of birds in regular sequence, faithfully rep-
resenting in their general appearance, the smaller class
of Ornithicnites. I learned from my guide, an intelli-
gent peasant of the neighborhood, that these recent
footprints were those oi the Sandpiper, a species com-
mon to North AmcM'ica; flights of which could be seen
daily running along the water's edge, and often leaving
this and forty similat impressions in astraight line, and
in many places parallel with the waters of the Bay. —
My guide also informed me, that after the foggy sea-
son is over, the heat of the sun will cause the red mud
to crack in hardening during the intervals of the rising:
tide, and divides the muu into compartments similar to
the clay we see at the bottom of a dried pond.

Continuing my course along the southern shore of the
Bay of Fundy (on which route the principal objects of
attraction are the muddy surges of the Bay, and the
broad belt of red mud along its shore,) I at length reach-
ed Cape Blomidon, a point of land extending far into
the Bay, and being nearly met by a j.oint of land on
the opposite shore of the Bay, thereby nearly cutting
it in two, and forming the waters to the eastward into
a kind of basin or estuary, known by the name of Ba-
sin of Mines, Into this famous basin or inner estuary,
tl^e tides of tl^^ Pay of Fundy pour twice every day a

fill

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vast body of water which passe.s through this narrow
strait, converting every small streamlet into the aj)-
pearance of'a lar^e tidal river. The tides here rise
70 feet in perpendicular height, and are said to be the
highest in the world. They often come up at first with
a fofly wave, called the Bore, the waters seemtocon.e
rushing with as much impetuosity as the St. Lawrence,
at the celebrated Cascade Rapids. The muddy billoAr^;
of thi'S Bay roar almost as loirdly while rolling on in
theit mad career, as the St. Lavvrence does "while rol-
ling its majestic waves over its rocky bed, whose tran>
parent green waters and white foam, far exceed in
beauty, the \^aters of the Bay of Fundy, which resem-
ble a powerful current of red mud in violent motion.

The waters of this famous Bay become charged with
this red sediment, by undermining cliffs of red sand-
stone and soft red marl, while rolling and tumbling in
awful grandeur, in performing the office assigned them
by Him who holds the waters of the Ocean in the hol-
low of his hand ; and has said to the raging billows,
"Hitherto shalt thou come and no farther, and here
shall thy proud wave be stayed." A large portion of
the ted mud which is seen along the shoi*es of the Bay
is thrown on the land, wherever the velocity ol the cur-
rent is suspended at the turn of the tide. Many ex-
tensive level flats have been thus enriched, and render-
ed valuable, by afterwards protecting them from the
tides by strong and powerful embankments, which ex-
clude the tides from their former bounds.

At Cape Blomidon, can be seen the same range of
cUffs alluded to at Annapolis: they are a considerahk

a me range ot

l-ARALLKL rr'HIiOW.- IN .-A.NDSTONK.

•iSS

\voiul<T, consisting chieily of clilfs of" soft red s.ind.stonc
ill nearly h- rizontal beds, anc! capped by a mass of ba-
salt and greenstone. Tbis mass of igneous rock, after
presenting fine ranges of rude columns on the bold
precipice, facing northwards, is continuous in a narrow
strip of high land for miles in extent, till it reaches An-
napolis.

As I was strolling with my guide, through a dense
(o<r alono; the beach, at the base of these basaltic clifls,
collecting pebbles and occasionally recent shells at low
tide, I stopped short at the sight of an unexpected phe-
nomenon, and remarked to my guide that the solitary
inhabitant of a desert island could scarcely have been
more startled by the foot-print of a man in the sand,
than I was on beholding some recent furrows in a ledge
of sandstone ynder my feet, almost in the very bed of
the Bay of Fundy. These furrows were straight, and
several only about half an inch broad and about as deep ;
and some of them running very nearly parallel with
each other, their direction being North 35 degrees
East, or corresponding to that of the shore at the place.
About a quarter of a mile nearer the Basin of Mines/
are another set of furrows similar in every respect, save
a variation of 5 degrtej in their general direction, the
latter bein^j: North 30 deo-rees East. These singular
grooves excited some curiosity in my mind, owing to
the newness of their appearance. I finally came to the
conclusion, judging from the softness of the sandsijne,
that ice must have been the cause ;.I therefore asked
my guide whether he had ever seen much ice on the
.•pjt where v;e wer*:^ standing. At thii question he

1 •

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28G

CLIFFS OF SOUTH .lOdClSi,

it: ■ I

.H'?ti

showed symptoms of surprise ; X having my pocket
map in my hand, at a glance discovered that v^^e \veie
in the 4«;"3th degree ol North latitude, or about halfway
between the Equator and the North Pole, which at
once accounted for the surprise of my guide, as he of
course considered the question of ice being put in so
north a latitude a strange one. He replied, that gene-
rally during the winter, the ice in spite of the tide
which runs at the rate of 10 miles an hour extended in
one uninterrupted mass from the shore where we stood,
to the opposite coast, of the Basin of Mines, and that
the ice blocks heaped on each other, and froze together
or packed at the foot of Cape Blomidon, were often 15
feet thick ; and were pushed along when the tide rose
over fhe sand ledges. He also stated that fragments of
rocks, a species of black stone, which fell from the
clifF, a pile of which lay at the base near our feet, were
often frozen into the ice and moved along with it. —
These great massess of ice hurried alonoj with such im-
petuosity, no doubt furnish sufHcient pressure and me-
chanical power to groove the ledges of soft sandstone.
The next object of attraction are the celebrated cliffs
of South Joo:<jrins, near the town of Minudie situated on

DO 7

the southern shores of a branch of the Bay of Fundy,
called Chignecto Channel, which divides part of New
Brunswick from Nova Scotia. We now crossed the
Basin of Mines, and went to Minudie, near which com-
mence the cliffs of South Joggins. These perpendicu-
lar cliffs extend in a south-westerly direction, along the
southern shore of the Channel. The commencement
of these cliffs consists of blue grit, which affords excel-

CLIFFS OF SOUTH JOGClNSj

as7

lent griiulstoncs, out of which vast numbers are taken.
Tills ledge is forty-five feet in thickness and extends
lor one mile south of Minudie.

It beinjr low tide, we had not only the advantafie ot
beholding a fine exposure of the edges of these beds in
the vertical precipice, but also the hofi?.oiital section,
which below the grindstone ledges, consisted of red
Sandstone, with some limestone and gypsum. The ver-
tical height of the clifTs is from 150 to 200 leet. Our
schooner now moved down the Chignects Channel, and
for three miles south of the grindstone ledges, the clifTs
are not interesting, being somewhat obscure, the rocks
consisting chiefly of red sandstone and red marl. Af-
ter passing these three miles, the precipice increases in
beauty, for they consist of freestone, bituminous shale,
micaceous sandstone, sandy clays, blue shale, and clays,
with ironstone, together with no less than nineteen
seams of coal, from one inch to four feet in thickness*

About 6 miles from the town of Minudie, commence
the celebratee fossil trees in the cli/Ts of South Joorgins,
all of which stand as erect as any trees in the lorest.
In the first of these trees, seen in moving down u\3
Chignecto Channel, there is no part of the origin, d
plant preserved, except the bark, which forms a tube
of pure bituminous coal, filled with sand, clay and oth-
er deposits, now forming a solid internal cylinder, with-
out traces of oro-anic structure. The bark is about a
quarter of an inch thick, marked externally with ir-
regular longitudinal ridges and furrows, without leaf-
scars, and therefore not resembling regular fluting*.-—
The diameter of this tree is 14 inches at the top ana 16

. I

'II

iri

ill

2S8

rurrs or :>;;riii .)iM.iii.\>.

■ J. i

at lli(? Loltom, \)v\iv^ o I'vvi S iiiclitj hl^fi. Thv jjImiIj
in the inliMlur ol'tlio trcf, is said to cun^ijl oi'.i borit\s
entirely dillcrcnt fvmn those on the oiil.side. The low.
est of the tliree outer beds w hich it traverses, consisi:;
of purplish und Mtie shale, two feet Ihick, above which
is sandstone one foot thick, and above this clay (w j
feet nine inches thick.

The :J'-T&nd of these fos.sil trees is separali'd Ironi tb.>
first by a considerable mass of* shale and sandstoiu',
which of itself is calcalated to attract the attention oi
the stranger, although in the ininriediute vicinity ol"
more interesting^ scenery. This second trunk is about
9 feet in length, traversing various strata, and cut oil"
at the top by a layer of clay, 2 feet thick, on which
rests a seam of coal 1 foot thick. This seam of coal
forms a foundation on uhich stands two lar2:e trees, a-
bout 15 feet a])art ; each one is about two and a half
feet in diameter, and fourteen feet long, both enlargiiitr
downwards, and the one situated the fartliest south, is
bulging very considerably at the base. The beds thro'
which these two famous trees pass, consist of shale and
sandstone. The cliff was here too precipitous to allow
a person to discover any commencement of roots ; but
when viewed from the schooner, the bottom of the
trunks seemed to touch Ihe subjacent coal.

/Vbove these trees are beds of bituminous fhale and
clay, about ten feet thick, on which rests another bed
of coal one foot thick ; and this coal supports two trcej
each, about eleven feet high, and sixty yards apart, and
so far as they can be seen, they appear to have grown
OI7 the coal. One ol these tr<^es is about two feet in

CLIFFS OP SOUTU JOUiilNS.

280

vo grown

iViameter, preserving nearly Ihe same size from top to
bottom ; while the other is only about fourteen inches
in diameter at the top, enlarged visibly at the base. —
The irregular Jurrows of the bark of these two trees in
about an inch and a half one from the other. The tops
of these trees are also cut off* by a bed of clay ; on this
bed oi clay rests the main seam of the South Joo^^ins
coal, which is at this place only (our feet thick.

Above this main seam of coal, there is another suc-
cession of strata, consisting of purplish and blue shale,
two feet thick, above which is sandstone one foot thick,
and above this again, clay which is between two and
three feet thick, with occasional thin seams of coal. —
This series of strata also contains fossil trees, standing:
vertical to the seams of coal, at five or six different lev-
els, which appear like fluted columns placed in the
face of the cliff*, and thereby adorns a towering preci-
pice, whose beauties are perhaps without a parallel on
the face of the globe. There were here visible no less
than sixteen of these fossil trees, being situated at ten
or eleven distinct levels, one above the other , they ex-
tend over a space of two or three miles from north to
south. In the whole seventeen of these upright trunks
not one could be seen intersecting a layer of coal, how-
ever thin, nor could any be seen standing on sandstone
or their roots terminating on the same ; but always on
coal or shale. Their height is Irom five feet eight in-
ches to twenty-five feet. One only could be seen that
was twenty-five feet high ; this was more than one hun-
dred feet above the beach, which of course could not

be approached to measure : but so far as I could judge,
13

\ ,1

290

CLIFFS OF bOUin JoOOlXi'

I ■ f'\

■:i

it was that height, and about lour feet in diameter, with
a considerable bulge at the base.

All these trees appear to be of one species, the ru-
gositese on the surface producing the eft'ect of a rude-
ly-fluted colunTin, the wlK)le of which were placed ve-
ry accurately at right angles to the planes of stratifica-
tion. I also learned that other and different fossil trees
were exposed a few years ago, that could not now be
seen, owing to the action oi the tides of the Bay of
Fundy, being so destructive as continually to under-
mine and sweep away, the whole face of the cliff, so
that a new crop of fossils is laid open to view every
two or three years.

At several places in this singular cli/F, we observed
not far above the uppermost coal-seams, containing ver-
tical trees, two strata, which perhaps is of fresh water
or estuary origin. This strata is composed of black
bituminous shale, chiefly made up of compressed shells.
Above these beds are innumerable strata of red sand-
stone or shale, which are without coal-seams, and with
iew or no fossils that can be seen^ In various places
in this clifl'can be seen ledges of gypsum, which how-
ever, is chiefly at or near the beach, in which positioii
it can only be seen at low tide. The clifl^s of South
Joggins afford a rich theme for contemplation by a stu-
dent of nature, and more particularly the Geologist, as
many curious conclusions may be deduced from an in-
spection of these celebrated cliffs. But for the exis-
tence of the upright trees, it might^have been conjec-
tured that the beds of sand and mud have been thrown
down at first on a sloping bank, as some times happenj

CLirPi or ROLTH JlKJCJlN*.

291

in the case of gravel and coarse saml ; but the ovidf-ncc
of the growth often or eleven furrsts of fossil trees, su-
perimposed one upon the other, together with the erect
position of the trees and thfir perpendicularity to the
planes of stratification, will at once conipcU every sane
mind to admit that such a conjecture is not only badly
founded, but really absurd.

While viewing these fossils, 1 was for some time at a
loss for a conclusion ; but owing to the waters of the
Bay of Fundy being heavily charged with sediment, I
came to the following conclusion : The main portion of
the peninsula ol Nova Scotia being situated South and
East ot South Joggins, thereby breaking the force of the
waves of the Atlantic, and allowing many of the trees
near the mouth ol the estuary, formerly at a much low-
er level than at present, to continue erect, by the ab-
sence of waves and currents of sufficient strength to
loosen and overturn the trees, and the waters being so
heavily charged with sediment, readily enveloped the
trees belore they had time to decay, and alter being
thus enveloped they were of course preserved. But
by the time I had noted the last line of my conclusion
I saw that my theory was subject to objection, owing
in part to the successive submergence of so many for-
ests which grew one above the other. I therefore no
longei" taxed my mind concerning the cause ol this ma-
jestic clifT, hoping at some future day to learn from the
pen of some Geologist the cause of this singular yet
beautiful precipice, which has the power of furnishing
him with a rich repast.

292

M 1 N U D 1 fi J

! J I

''Sir

,p^.

CHAPTER X X V 1 1 .

Second Arrival at Minudie — Departure — Windsor'— Linnoed
Burcalis — Potatoes — Culture-'— Harvesting and Storing Pota-
toes — Hulton Bluir—- Gypsum — Big Rock — Rose's Point —
Gypsiferous Sericj^— Blue Noses — Ardoise Hills — Foggy Re-
gions — Kalmia— Sterility of the Southern Portion of Nova
Hcotia — 'Progress of the Country — Inhabitants — Highland Set-
tlers — Political Dissatisfaction — Halifax — Surrounding Scene-
ry — Museum — Commerce — Departure for Massachusetts —

- Dense Fogs — The Ocean — The Tempest — Sublimity of tliQ
Ocean. ,

After our return to the town of Minudie, vve were
very hospitably received by the chief proprietor and
owner of the land containing the cliffs of South Joggins.
This wealthy land-lord is also the owner ot many of
those fertile flats of red mud before described, which he
has rt^deemed from the sea. Minudie is a handsome
and flourishing town. From the town of Parrsborough
we again crossed the Basin of Mines, by our schooner
penetrating a dense fog, which did not onl}' obscure
the scenery of the shores from the view of the stranger,
but was otherwise very unpleasant.

Windsor, is a city situated on a splendid harbor on
the southern shore of the Basin of Mines, in a fertile
and highly cultivated region of country, which pro-
duces wheat and other grain in very considerable quan-
tities. In the woods near this place, I saw several
kinds of Pycola and other flowers, among them the
Linnoed Borealis appeared here and there, matting the
ground with its green leaves under the shade of the
fir-trees, and still displaying some of its delicate pink
flowers.

^innoed
g Pota-
Point —
gity Re-
of Nova
land Set-
ig Scenc-
luselts —
ity of the

IV e were
etor and

Jooro;ins.

ruLTrrji op roTATors.

Potatoes are here raised in vnst qManlltioFi, as the
rich, moist, cool and admirable soil of the northern
section of Nova Scotia is well adapted to the growth of
the potatoe. It is contended a calcareous soil yields a
fljood potatoe and genernll}'' a siire crop, and when the
land contains but little lime it is added with salt, ashes
and o;ypsum. The land when not already sn{fici^ntly
rich, manure is spread on the surface before plowing,
and if the soil requires the above manures are also ad-
ded, or such of them as the soil may require. If a
touo;h sod, it is plowed the preceeding fall, but if it is
friable it is plowed just before planting ; but in all cases
the land is put in such a condition lis to be perfectly
loose and mellow. Hills are chiefly chosen, as they
are most convenient for tillage, as they admit of a more
thorouq;h stirrin"* of the scround with the cultivator or
plow.

The medium sized potatoe is chiefly selected for seed,
as it is contended to be vastly the best for planting. —
Two potatoes are placed in each hill, or if the}' are
drilled, they are planted singl}*, nine or ten inches a-
part. The distance both in hills and drills generally
depends on the strength of the soil and size of tho tops,
as some varieties grow much larger than others. The
potatoe is covered to the d(^pth offivo or six inches,
and if the soil is light the ground is left perfectly level,
if cold, heavy, or wet, the hill is raised when finished.

In some cases they receive a top dressing with com-
post earth well rotted, chip manure, &c. ; soon af^er
the plants make their appearance, this is carried to the
field and spread from a light cart, the wheels passing

It' ^'^i

iH'r I:

^ f

294

CULTURE OF POTATOES,

/f;:.:

.... t^

I I

between the rows, after which the plow is run through
them, which throws the earth over them two or three
inches and no injury results, if the tops are partially
or even entirely covered. The hoe is seldom required,
except to destroy such weeds as may have escaped the
plow. The ground is thus several times stirred before
the tops interfere with the operation, but never <l^ter
they come into blossom.

The harvesting is never commenced until the tops
are mostly dead. They are then thrown out of the
hills by a plow made fof the purpose, called the har-
row plow, and after they are raiseci they are never ex-
posed to the sun for any lengih of time, but are gather-
ed into small heaps and some of the tops spread over
them until they are Ireed from the surface moisture. —
Those for seed are then selected and placed in smalj
piles in the field, till they are placed in thin layers in
a cool, dry place in the cellar, where the air is exclu-
ded and no heating or injury can occur. Such as are
intended for consumption are stored in an excavation
made in the side of a hill, and sometimes on level
ground, where they are protected from rain and frost
until the partial sv/eating or heating, which soon takea
place, is over^ when they are covered with earth to a
sufficient depth to protect them from being injured- by
freezing. A ditch lower than the base, is made encir-
cling the heap, from which an outlet conducts away
all the water, as any left upon them will inevitably
produce decay. In a majority of cases, however, hous-
es are constructed for the purpose of storing- away po-
tatoes, which heve appear to be a vast product,

' im

HOIlTdN BLUFF.

295

Potatoes are here used in large quantities by the
manufacturers of starch. The refuse of the pulp, after
extracting the starch as well as the liquor drained from
it, is used in clensing woollens and silks, which it ef-
fects without injury to the color. They are also used
to some extent for distilling, and in a less degree for
making sugar. But by far the greatest use of potatoes
in this region of country is for stock feeding. They
are eaten with avidity by all the brute creation, either
cooked or raw. They are here fed to horses, cattle,
sheep, hogs and even poultry-

Horton Bluff, near Windsor, is celebrated for its
gypsum. The highly inclined and curved strata of
this cliff affords a fine section containing coal plants and
scales of fish. This is a scene truly interesting, as they
contain marine fossils identical with many of those
which can be found at Windsor, ana at other places on
the shore of the Basin of Mines. There is also seen in
one of the ripple marked slabs, a something which ap-
pears to be the impression of the footsteps of an animal,
perhaps a Reptilian, having five claws. There are two
of these tracks, neither of which is very plain.

The gypsum taken out of this cliff is immense, and
such as is used in Nova Scotia is burnt before using it
as a manure. ' Great quantities of the gypsum of Nova
Scotia is shipped for the United States. These vast
beds of gypsum are most always found to be intimately
associated with limestone, which have no appearance
of their having undergone alteration, but appear as na-
tural as when found by themselves.

The gypsiferous strata are best disclosed in the cliffs,

h\i i

• \ 1

;. I

it'\

^:-Af .,

29G

MAfcS or GYI*5UM OR ALABAStElt/

which are washed by Ihe estuary, which penetrates far
into the peninsula. The rapid tides of the Bay of Fun-
cly continually undermine and sweep away the fallen
debutus at the base of the cliffs, otherwise the section
would soon be obscured, owing to the muddy waters of
the Bay } but so rapid is the disintegration of the soft
red marls with which the gypsum and limestone are
int erst ratified, as to keep it in a manner fresh. The
general strike of the beds are nearly east and west, the
strata appearing to have been first folded into numerous
parallel wrinkles, running east and west, and part of
these iolds tilted at considerable angles, sometimes to-
wards the east and sometimes to the west, while the
rocks are fissured in the direction of their strike and
shifted vertically. By such complicated movements
the strata have been thrown into the greatest confusion.

In the same range of cliffy, at a place called Big
Rock, is seen a great mass of gypsum or alabaster, of a
pure white color, which is no less than 300 yards thick
and forms a conspicuous object in the vertical cliff, and
is said to extend continuously east and west for 12
miles through the country, and is perhaps one of the
most magnificent scenes that Nova Scotia can produce.
Below it are alternations of gypsum with yellow shale
and bituminous limestone. Among the dislocated
strata which alternate with gypsiferous series, are three
masses consisting of coal-grit, shale and sandstone. —
These are visible only at low tide.

A few miles up the Shubenacadie river, at a place
called Rose's Point, are seen limestones containing ma-
Tien shells, and at a point called Anthony's Noae, the

tj L L fe NOSE s'.

297

same curiosities may be seen. Near both ofthcse places
are vast beds of gypsum. I learned that 4 miles higher
up the river at Admiral's Rock, there was anothefvast
quarry*

In going southwards from Windsor, there may also
be seen on a tributary of the River Avon, a fry])sifef-
ous series situated near a Mr. Snide's Mill. This gyp-
sum was inclosed in coarse sandstone, with a seam of
impure coal, about two inches thick, near which could
be seen clay, iron, stone and shale. Great beds of
gypsum could also be seen on the Halifax road.

We now prepared to travel south for the city of
Halifax, which we done by crossing the Ardoise hills
in a stage coach. I learned while in the great plaster
region, that there was a class of persons in Nova Sco-
tia, called the Blue Noses, (so called from a kind of po-
tato which thrives well here.) Whether this nick-name
is an appropriate one or not, I did not oecome suffici-
ently acquainted with their habits to determine. This
much however is true, that they are not in the habit of
setting a very high value either on their own time or
that of others. To this class I presume belonged the
driver of our stage coach, for on arriving in the famous
Ardoise Hills, which range divides the sloping and fer-
tile northern regions of the peninsula, from the rocky
and baren regions of the south, drawing the reins of
his horses, he informed us that there were a great ma-
ny wild straw berries by the road side, and that he in-
tended to get off and eat some of them, as there was
time to spare, for he should still arrive in Halifax by
the appointed hour. It is needless to say that all turn-
13*

r-lf\

m ^

;•!'

29S

SO'JTIllillN POIITION 01' NOVA SCOTl.U

ed out, as there was no alternative but to wait in tlip
inside of the coach or to pick iruit by the road side. —
Alter our driver had made a desperate inroad upon the
wild straw berries by the road side, we travelled on for
some distance among the hills, when to my great de-
light I caught a glimps of the sun, for the first time
for some days, on which I raised the question of fog,
by asking the driver if we would not soon get out of
the foggy regions; when to my surprise I was told that
we were just going into the very regions of fog. Ac-
cordingly, when we crossed the lower chain of the
Ardoise Hills, I lound that the driver's answer was
very true. Great indeed was the contrast between the
climate and the aspect of the fertile country which we
had just left, and the cold barren tracts of granite,
quartzite, and clay iic, which we were about to en-
ter on our way to Halifax. The sterility of this quart-
zilerous district is not in the least relieved by any beau,
tiful features of the scenery ; the plants alone afforded
us some points of interest and novelty, especially the
Kalmia, now in full flower, which monopolised the
ground in some wide open spaces where there was
earth enough to support vegetation.

More than half of the southern portion of the penin-
sula of Nova Scotia consists of granite rocks, clay-slate,
quartzite and other crystalline formations, without fos-
sils that are visible, the strata having an east and west
strike. Granite also intrudes itself in veins into every
part ol this series and was it not for the merit the south-
ern half of Nova Scotia, of affording some of the best
harbors in the world, it would certainly be one of the

SOUTHERN rORTlON OF NOVA SCOTIA.

'iya

most miserable, poor, rocky and foggy regions in the
Vvorld. And I do not think it would be slanderino^ the
southern portion of the peninsula much, to term it the
great theatre of thickets, granite rocks and fogs.

But in spite of the large extent of barren and rocky
land in the south, and what is a more serious evil, those
seven or eight months of frost and snow, which crowd
the labours of the agriculturalist into so brief a season,
the resources ot the province are very great. They
have the most magnificent harbours in the world, and
fine navigable estuaries, large areas of the richest soil
in the northern part of the province, which have been
gained irom the sea by embankments, together with a
vast supply of coal and gypsum, with large and dense
forests of timber, all of which are great resources of
the province, rendering it great aid in overcoming all
other obstacles', and it can be seen that the progress of
the colony is onward.

A fellow-passenger in the coach from IVindsor to
Halifax, a native of the country, and who from small
beginnings had acquired a large fortune, bore testimo-
ny to the rapid strides which the province had made
within his recollection, by deploring the universal in-
crease of luxury. He spoke of the superior simplicity
of manners in his young days, when the wives and
daughters of farmers were accustomed to ride to church,
each on horseback, behind their husbands or fathers ;
whereas now they were not content unless they could
ride there in their own carriage.

In Nova Scotia, not a few of the most intelligent and
thriving inhabitants are descended from loyalists, who

Sou

POLITICAL DISSATISrACTION.

if ■"

fled from the United States at the time of the declara-
tion of Independence. The picture they drew of l!»e
stationary condition, want of cleanly habits and igno-
rance of some of the Highland settlers in parts of Nova
Scotia, was discouraging, and olten so highly coloured
as to be very amusing. They were described to me as
cropping the newly cleared ground year after year
without manuring it, till the dung of their horses and
cattle accumulated round their doors, and became even
to them an intolerable nuisance. In this predicament
they accordingly pulled down their log cabins and re-
moved them to a distance, till at length several of their
more knowing neighbors offered to cart away the ma-
nure for a small remuneration. After a time the High-
landers perceived the use to which the manure was
put, and required those who removed it to execute the
task gratuitously, which request of course was perform-
ed without a murmur.

In this province the stranger may see that there Is
a political dissatisfaction among the inhabitants ; how-
ever not to so great an extent as in the Canadas. In
this province may be heard complaints against the Brit-
ish government, for their habitual disregard of the
claims of native merit, as citizens native born, men too
of the greatest talent and moral worth are excluded
from the most important places of trust and honor; all
posts of rank and profit being awarded to foreigners, or
which is the same thing, to natives of the mother coun-
try, who they contend, have not their hearts in the
country where they' are but temporary sojourners,
which b}^ the by, is "not so absurd an argument as u

Halifax.

301

Bomelimes held forth in matters of less importance. A
second complaint is against the lumber traffic and tim-
ber duties, as the laborers engaged during the severe
winters at high pay, to fell and transport the timber to
the coast, become invariably a drunken and improvi-
dent set. Another serious mischief is contended as
accruing from this traffic, as often as the new settlers
reach the tracts from which the wood has been remo-
ved, instead of a cleared region, ready for cultivation,
they find a dense and vigorous undergrowth of young
trees, far more expensive to deal with than the origi-
nal forest ; and what is worse, all the best kinds of tim-
ber fit for farm buildinors and other uses have been ta-
ken away, having been carefully selected for exporta-
tion to Great Britain.

The city of Halifax, with a population o( 18,000, is
beautifully situated on a harbour, said to be the most
magnificent in the world, surrounded by low hills of
granite and slate, covered with birch and spruce fir.
The city contains many fine buildings, among which is
a very large museum containing a vast number of fos-
sil shells and a large fossil tree filled with sand. The
city has a vast commerce, and is the point where Brit-
ish steamers always land from Europe.

On leaving Halifax, on board a steamship, for the
city of Boston, in the State of Massachusetts, the splen-
did harbour and the Atlantic were enveloped in a dense
fog, which is said to be caused by the meeting over the
great banks of the warm waters of the gulf stream flow-
ing from the south, and the cold currents often charg-
ed with floating ice from the north, by which very op-

fivt,

lit

302

TIIK OCEAN.

posite states in the relative temperature of the sea and
atmosphere are produced, in spaces closely contiguous.
In places where the sea is warmer than the air, fogs gen-
erate. The ocean was found to assume different col-
ors. The materials which compose its bottom cause it
to reflect different hues in difi'erent places, and its ap-
pearance is also affected by the winds and by the sun,
while the clouds that pass over it communicate all their
varied and fleeting colors. When the sun shone it was
green ; when he gleamed through a fog it was yellow.
After sailing about 20 hours, there came up a very
heavy rain, attended by a considerable tempest ; and
while the rain was fallins; in torrents, the storm brino;-
ing up wave after wave, and loud peals of thunder fol-
lowing in quick succession, added sublimity to the scene.
Afler it ceased raining, the tempest increased with such
fury as to compel the steamer to sail into the Bay of
Casco for safety, where we remained nearly all night.
Such is the Ocean — a most stupendous scene of Om-
nipotence, which forms the most magnificent feature
of the globe we inhabit. When we are sailing: over its
bosom and cast our eyes over the expanse of its waters,
till the sky and waves seem to mingle, all that the eye
can take in at one survey is but an inconsiderable speck.

In fine, whether we consider it as rearing its tremen-
dous billows in the midst of the tempest, or stretched
out into a smooth expanse, we cannot but be struck
with astonishment at the grandeur of that omnipotent be-
ing who holds its waters in the hollow of his hand, and
who has said to its foaming surges, "Hitherto shalt thou
come and no farther, and here shall thy proud waves
be staved."

5TATK OF MASSACmrSLTTS. 303

CHAPTER XXVIII.
STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS.

Green Mountain range — Agriculture — Shipping — Aspect of the
State — Railroads — Remarks on the past history of the State —
Gloucester — Capo Anne — Salem — Trade — East India Marino
Society — Witchcraft — Historical sketch — Remark on the De-
lusion of the Colony — Linn.

In travelling from the city of Boston, through vari-
ous sections of this State, I iound the Green Mountain
range to traverse the central parts of the State from
north to south. These mountains in their whole ex-
tent abound in noble elevations, dark green forests,
pleasant and vi'ell sheltered valleys, all presenting an
infinite variety of very impressive scenery. The State,
west of the Connecticut river is mountainous, and east
of that river it is undulating or hilly, except the south-
eastern portion of the State, or the counties south-east
of Charles river, which are level and sandv. The soil
of a large portion of the State is of an inferior quality,
but cultivated with such a degree of skill and intelli-
gence that it is rendered delightful to behold, and re-
munerates the owners with a handsome reward.

This great State is usually known by the name of
the Old Bay State, so called from the celebrated Mas-
sachusetts Bay, on which it' is situated, which great
bay extends from the city of Boston north to Cape
Anne, and south to Cape Cod, which two Capes ex-
tend far into the Atlantic, in the form of a crescent or
half-moon ; the bay is therefore so completely land-

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304.

MASSACHlSKtTi.

locked as to render it one of the most secure and nia*/-

nificent bays in North America. The coast of tho
State is long and very irregular, and has with the ex-
ception of the State of Maine, inore good harbors than
any other State in the Union.

Agriculture receives in this State great attention,
and is conducted with a superior degree of skill and in-
telligence. It is no doubt one ol the most highly cul-
tivated States in the Union. In this State the Legisla-
ture as well as Agricultural Societies have made great
efforts to encourage a skilful and thrifty husbandry, and
to introduce the best foreign breeds of sheep and cat-
tle. The great object, however, of the people of Mas-
sachusetts is commerce, manufactures and the fisheries,
which three chief pursuits are carried on to a very ex-
tensive scale. The State employs in her commerce and
fisheries, nearly one third of the whole shipping own-
ed in the United States. It is the most thickly settled
section of the Union, and is distinguished for the en-
terprise and public spirit of its citizens. The people
are famous for the liberality with which they support
literary and humane, as well as religious institutions,
which are all in the most flourishing condition. The
State is also noted for its magnificent public works.-
Notwithstanding the State is mountainous and hilly, it
has some very important canals and no less than seven-
teen or eighteen rail-roads, wholly within the State,
five of which centre in the city of Boston. The larger
portion oi'ihe rail-roads of the State are constructed
with two tracks the entire length ; and cars may be
seen passing each other every few minutes.

MA*?A(;fn;si:TT*.

ti)b

Massac Imsetts is famous lor the paliencc and forbear-
ance whicli she practiceil amidst the oppi:cs8ions heap-
»'(l upon her by old Kno;laiul an oppression experien-
ced throuf^h exaction and cahmmies, loss of charter,
and one abridtj;ement of liberty uftor aiK^thor ; still she
inaintainod hrr loyalty, stul indulging the feelings and
adopt in<^ the language of affection, until justice, patri-
otism, religion and the cry of liberty, raised by the re-
nowned old Dominion, by the voice of her immortal
Henry, bid them rise and assert those rights, which the
()o(l of nature designed for all h's rational offspring, at
which she took animation, hurled the Tea of Great
Britain into Massachusetts bay, and boldly resisted by
force of arms the oppressions of I^ngland, and furnish-
ed more men and money than any other colony, for the
purpose of bringing to a prosperous conclusion, a rev-
olution which a selfish and jealous mother country, by
her pride and imprudence, had occasioned.

Through this long and trying war, in which inex-
porience had to contend with the best discipline of Eu-
rope, and poverty with great wealth, we see the in-
habitants of Massachusetts the first to pledge their for-
tunes, liberties and lives, to one another, which being
followed by twelve of her sister colonies, they togeth-
er accomplished their emancipation, to the great aston-
ishment of the world. And it no less astonished the
world to learn, that no sooner were these confederated
colonies emancipated and transformed into an indepen-
dent nation, than they were found calmly betaking
themselves to the organization of a government, under
a Constitution as wise as it was singular, and whose ex-

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306

GLOUCESTER.

cellency and competency, the experience of more than
half a century has confirmed 5 a government which has
since become the joy and admiration of the world ; a
government which has divested the wilderness of all
its savage wildness and caused it to put on beauty and
fruitfulness ; a government whose jurisdiction and pro-
gress has been onward and onward, till it has become
arrested in its progress by the mighty billows of the
Pacific ocean.

Soon after my arrival in Massachusetts, I made an
excursion to Gloucester, a great fishing town, with G,-
350 inhabitants, situated on the southern bank of Cape
Anne, which has an excellent harbour. The town is
connected with Boston by railroad, and is famous for
its fisheries, particularly for its mackerel and cod. At
this town may be seen vast numbers of the finest mack^r
erel and cod, together with immense quantities of oth-
er fish, as fishing is the only employment of the inhab-
itant* Gloucester is a place admirably situated for
carrying on the fishing business. The town however
has few attractions, being rendered filthy and disgust
ing by the immense numbers of its fish. The stranger
after viewing the great -number of fishing boats, and
some very large whale ships, has few other objects of
interest to detain him, as an hour or two will general-
ly incline him to leave this great theatre offish.

Salem, with a population of 16,762, is situated on a
fine harbor, which is to the north of the city. On the
opposite side of the harbor is the town of Beverly, con-
taining 4,684 inhabitants, connected with Salem by a
very beautiful bric]ge, 1 5QQ feet in length, The inhab-

S A L Q M .

807

MMi

more than
which has
world ; a
less of all
)eauty and
n and pro-
las become
ows of the

I made an
n, with 6,-
mk of Capo
he town is
famous for
id cod. At
finest mackr
ities of oth-
(f the inhab-
situated for
n however
,nd disgust-
'he stranger
boats, and
r objects of
ill general-
if fish,
tuated on a
|ty. On the
verly, con-
Salem by a
The inhab-

itants of the place are chiefly employed in commerce
and the fisheries. Salem is noted for the ':oTimercial
enterprise and industrious spiiit ol iis inhabitants. It
has lon^i" been largely engaged in the East India and
China trade, and its coasting and foreign trade is very
considerable. The inhabitants are also engaged in the
whale fishery, in which they employ thirteen ships.
They also carry on the common fisheries to a great ex^-
tent. The city was incorporated in 162^, and receiv-
ed a charter in 1836. Salem is neatly built and con-
tains the East India Marine Society, which is compo^
sed wholly of nautical men. It was founded in the
year 1799, incorporated in 1801, and is said to contain
the finest collection of East India curiosities in the Ur-
nited States, The introduction of a member is requi^
red to procure admittance. The collections consist of
very valuable natural and artificial curiosities. There
is here a Lyceum, a very flourishing institution, which
was incorporated in 1830, Eighteen large and ele-r
gant churches also adorn the city,

Salem is noted for the great delusion of 1692, when
nineteen persons were hanged on the charge of witchr
craft, among which was Mr. George Burroughs, a very
respectable minister of the gospel, This singular in-
fatuation of the people, on the supposed prevalence of
witchcraft, caused Salem to become a place of revoltr
ing and distressing scenes. From this tovvn the awful
mania rapidly spread into the neighboring (;ounties,
and caused terror, disorder and tumult throughout the
colony; and for a time the counsels of age were un-
heard, wisdom was counfounded and religion silenced,

308

WITCHCRAFT.

all giving ear to the savages, who with their long sto-
ry of Hobbamocko, heightened their imagination, con-
firnned their delusive opinions, and furnished materials
for approaching terrors. While under the influence of
this awful delusion, at length the enquiry was anxious-
ly suggested, where will this accumulating evil and
misery end. This singular infatuation began now to
give way, and a conviction began to spread that tho
proceedings had been rash and indefensible ; and hap-
pily for the colony, the cloud which had so long hung
over it slowly and sullenly retired, and like the dark-
ness of Egypt, was to the great joy of the distressed in-
habitants, succeeded by serenity and sunshine. It
would perhaps be unjust for us rashly to condemn our
ancestors, as the human mind is prone to superstition,
and more or less it prevails in every country, even in
those which are civilized and refined and upon which
divine revelation sheds its light. Even in this case,
we are compelled to contemplate with wonder, the
seeming madness and infatuation, not of the weak, il-
literate and unprincipled ; but of men of sense, educa-
tion and fervent piety. We are also bound to consid-
er, that though groundless, as is the existence of witch-
craft at the present day, at that period its actual exis-
tence was taken for granted, and that doubts respect-
ing it were deemed little less than heresy, because tho
delusion or humbug had seized upon all, not even es-
caping the most learned and accomplished of England.
Even the celebrated Dr. Baxter pronounced the disbe-
liever in witchcraft an obdurate Sadducee ; and Sir
]^|athe^y Hale, one of the brightest ornaments of th?

LYNN.

309

English Bench, repeatedly tried and condemned those
as criminals who were accused of witchcraft. It is
however cheering to know, that no people on earth
are now more enlighted on this subject than are the
people of United States. Nothing of a similar kind has
since existed, and probably never will exist. It is true
stories of wonder, foundeed on ancient tradition or up-
on a midnight adventure, sometimes awe the village
circle on a winter's night, but the succeeding day cha-
ses away every ghost and lulls every fear. There is
perhaps no nation on earth who are novr more free from
those delusions, than are the people of the U. States.

The town oi Lynn, with a population of 9,369, is
beautifully situated as a seaport town, on a fine harbor.
The place contains many large and handsome buildings
ana is celebrated for the great amount of shoes, (over
2,590,000 pair annually,) manufactured here. The in-
habitants also carry on the cod and whale fisheries. — :
Nahant, a part of this town, is situated on a rocky pe-
ninsula, and is a very celebrated watering place and
resort of the JBostonians during the summer months.-

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BOSTON.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Boston — Site of Boston — Harbour — Bridges — State House-
Slabs from the Beacon-hill Monument, with inscriptions — Re-
presentatives Hall — Devices and Inscriptions — Dome — Senate
Chamber — Arms of the State — Cap of Liberty — Numoer of
rooms — Height ofCupola — Regulations — View from the north
window of the Cupola— East winddw — South window — West
window.

The city of Boston, with a population of 1 14,366 in-
habitants, the capitol of Massachuseets and the princi-
pal city ot New England, is pleasantly situated on a
small hilly peninsula, on Massachusetts bay, with a
safe and commodious harbor, deep enough to admit the
largest vessels, and so completely land-locked as to be
perfectly secure, and large enough to contain six hun-
dred ships at once. Several forts erected on the isl-
ands to the eastward, command thfe approaches to the
city. Besides this main high and commanding penin*
sula, the city comprises another peninsula called South
Boston, connected with the main city by two free brid-
ges. The city also comprises the island of East Bos-
ton, with which communication is kept up by a num-
ber of steam ferry-boats^ On the north, four bridges
connect the citv with Charleston, on the northwest
with Cambridge, and a solid causeway of earth unites
it with Brooklin, on the west. Before the erection of
this great causeway, all the lowlands to the south of it
were overflowed by the tide, with perhaps ten or twelve
feet of water. A narrow neck of land which has been
raised and widened by artificial construction, joins it
to Roxbury, the main portion of the city being entire-

STATE UOUSE AT BOSTOxV.

jy surrounded with water. The peninsula is bounded
on the north, east and south by the bay and Charles
river, and on the west by a large, open marsh, contain-
ing water to the depth of several feet.

The city is very irregularly built, having no streets
bi any considerable length, being entirely destitute of
a handsome street of one hundred'yards in length, they
being generally crooked, narrow and roughly paved.
The buildings are lofty and beautiful, from three to five
stories in height. It is very rare that you see a build-
ing under the height of three stories, all of which are
constructed either ol granite or brick, and with the ex-
ception of the older part of the cityj possess considera-
ble excellence.

The peninsula w^as first settled in 1630; the first
churcn built in 1632 ; the first market erected in 1634
and the first newspaper published in America, was is-
sued here in 1704.

Objects of attraction. The State House. — The
corner-stone of this splendid edifice was laid July 4th,
1795, on land formerly owned by Governor Hancock,
near the top of Beacon Hill. This hill is 150 feet a-
bove high water mark, which is truly a splendid emi-
nence in the centre of the city. (On the top of this
beautiful eminence stood the old Beacon Hill Monu-
ment, which was taken down in 1804, and the four
slabs which formed the base, now remain to be seen at
the foot ot the stairs leading to the cupola.) This ele-
gant building is constructed of patent brick, and is of
an oblong form, 173 feet front, and 61 feet deep. Li
consists of a basement story 28 feet high, and a princi*

ujc I

ifii

♦^

li ;

uUy,

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3ie

6TATE HOUSE.

'iid

pal story 30 feet high. The centre ol" the front is cov-
ered with an attic 60 feet wide and 20 leet high, which
is covered with a pediment. Immediately above this
rises a dome 52 feet in diameter and 35 feet high ; the
whole terminates with an elegant circular lantern, 25
feet high, supporting a gilded pine cone. The lower
story is finished plain on the wings, with square win-
dows. The centre is 94 feet in length, and formed of
arches ivhich project 14 feet ; they form a covered walk
below, arid support a colonnade of Corinthian columns
of the same extent above. The outside walls are of
large patent brick.

The lower story is divided into a large hall, or pub-
lic walk in the centre, 50 feet square and 20 feet high,
supported by Doric columns in the centre, and on the
north side of this story, is placed Chantrey's highly
finished statue of Washington. As the visitor enters
the State House at the south front, he beholds the stat-
ue through the arched passage-way that leads from the
Doric hall to the apartment where it is placed. This
statue, together with the pedestal on which it stands
and the little temple in which it is placed, cost the
sum of $16,000.

Near the back door and at the foot of the stairs, are

the four large slabs above named, which formed the

pedestal of the monument on Beacon Hill; on one ot

which there is the following inscription :

'•To conDmmorate that train of events which led to the A-
merican Revolution and finally secured Liberty and f'^-epcn-
dence to the United States, this column is erected by lae vohm-
tgry contribution of the citizens of Boston. A D C C X C

?iLAlBS Ol' BLACON lllLL MONl'MENT.

313

Stnmn Art pn^ud 176;). Repealed J7(j(), Bcxinl oj Customs
'i Jnhlislied 17H7, Hritish tronvsfirtd v.poa ihc inkabttaufs of

I / /o^ nafKc ((7 jyatiKci a am jhiiv i/, v* ui^nin^ijoiiiiiOK com-
mand of the armij^ulij 2, liostun evmtuitcd JMatek 17, 177,H,
indcpcndeace dcclnrcd'hii Congress. July 4. 1776, Hancock
Pfcsidek'.t^ C<^ptwc of llessmnsat Titn-ton^ Dec. 26, Capture
nf Hessipt,is at Benniaiitoit^ Anirust 16, 1777, Capture of
jiritiahnrmij at Sarafog;a. Oct. 17, 1777, Alliance with France
fclh 6. \7Jh,iConfcderaiion of tJnitcd States formed July !),
^U)\\Mitation of Massachusetts formed 1781), Howdoin Presi-
d'Hit of the- Convention, Capture vf the Briii^sh army at York
Oct. id, \1 SI, Preliminaries of Peace Nov. 'SO, 1782, Deji-
■ Aite Treaty of Peace Sept. 10, 1783, Federal Constitution
formed Sent, 17, 1787, and ratijitd by the United States 1787,
to 1790, New Congress, msemhled ot New York April 16.
178i), Washington inaugurated President Ajyril 30. Pidfu.
Debts funded ^August 4, "1790.

Americans : while froni this eniincnce. scenes of lujcunl'ni
fn'iility and Jlourishing ccimwircc tind'^ltr. 'nhnar^ of sot'ini
hippincss meet your view^ forget not th\)sc who by their exei -
lions have secured to you these blessings.

From the slabs above noticed, our rittcnliou is ac^ait\
(h'awn to the capllol. Two entries open at each cvA
.'Ki.ieet wide, witli two (lights of stairs in e.ach, on both
sides ot which are oifices. On the west Wingthe Sec-
jt^tary's dejiaitment in front and the A<ljnttint Gener-
al's in the rear; on th(» east wincT,,the Treasurer's de-
putment in front and ithe Lattd Agtjut'sjjLJa'iJLibrj^ry in
the rear. In .I81«t>, fo; t'be fmthe.r acreuiniodation ot
the Library, the legislatufe mad^j an ap[»ropriation i\\
the finishing!; ot a room in the li.isement stoi v, undci
'the west wing. Thn library is accessible to the merrr
■■ T.; o( till' Ceneial t^'i.'urt at all (iirirs.
11

■■'r I;

• r H

IV-

n ,!

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¥M

iTf'

3M. RuniESENTATlVES IIALL — SENATE CIlAMCtK'^

The rooms above, are the Representatives Hall lu
the centre, 55 feet square. This hall is finished with
Doric columns on two sides, 1 2 feet from the lloui;
forrtiing galleries;, the Doric establatures surround tlu
whole ; from this s] ring four flat arches on the sidt .
which being united by a circular cornice above, fuiii;
in the angles, four large pendants to a bold and wili
proportioned dome. The pendants are ornameiittil
with emblems of commerce, agriculture, peace and war
Directly over the speaker's chair, on the north side ol
the hall, is placed the State armsj and a little abovi
may be seen the gilded eagle, just ready to fly, havint;
in his beak a large scroll with the following inscrip'
lion in larg^ gilt letters : "God save the Commo.v-
WEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS." On the south side, op-
posite to the eagle^ is a mammoth codfish, an emblen;
of the fisheries of Massachusetts.

The centre of the dome is 50 feet from the floor: the
6peaker'*s chair is placed on the north side ; the clciil
on the right ol the speaker; tlie permanent .seats in a
semicircular form, so arranged as to accommodate 300
members on the floor; the front west gallery is for the
use of members of the legislature ; the rear gallery for
the use ot the public ; east front gallerj^ lor the ladies; |
the rear gallery for the public.

In the east wing is the Senate Chamber, 55 ft^Qi loii'j
by 33 feet wide and 30 feet high ; highly finished iiil
the Ionic order of architecture. Two screens support
with establatures, a rich and elegant arched ceilin:^.-
This room is also ornamented with Ionic pilasters, with
the arms of the State and of the United States, nlaceil

STATE n0U?K.

315

'"■ IM'

ill opposite panels. Directly opposite the door, is pla-
ced the president's chair ; on the right and left are seat-
ed the members, beginning with the oldest member in
office on the right of the president. There are forty
members in this branch of the legislature.

In the west wing is the Council Chamber, 27 feet
square and 20 leet high, with a flat ceiling ; the walls
are finished with Corinthian pilasters and panels of
stucco. These panels are enriched with State arms,
the emblems of executive power, the scale and sword
of justice, the insignia of arts and freedom, the cadu-
ceus and cap of liberty ; the whole decorated with
wreaths of oak and laurel. In the rea. ^f this room on
'the same floor, is a small room called the Governor's
room, and the antechamber for the use of the commit-
tees of the council.

Besides these principal rooms, there are no less than
[twenty-five smaller ones for the use of the several
committees. The cost of this famous capitol amount-
ed to $133,833,33. It was first occupied by the Leg-
[islature on the 11th of January, 1798, upwards of three
?ears after its commencement. The foundation of this^
edifice as before stated, is about 150 feet above the lev-
^1 of the sea. Its elevation and size make it a verv
conspicuous object. Two flights of stairs lead to the
[op of the outer dome or circular lantern, 170 steps
irom the lower floor. This lantei*n contains four large
[vihdows, situated north, south, east and west, whicb
r'indow's are 230 feet above the level of the sea. T^\\^
[iew from these windows afl^ords the spectator one of
le most interesting and beautiful spectacles. It is free

I }

«^l6

STATE flOV St'

P^ }i

11:1'

j.:m

'&'

':, '•v::i

,- ,i i.

4o the public at all times, by the stranger registerini;
his name in a book kept lor the purpose, with the ex-
ception of Sundays, Thanksgivings and Fast days,\vhrn
entrance is prohibited by order of the General Court,
The views from this cupola are various in the extreme
and the objects are here noted as they are seen from
each window in succession, which embrace a greater
variety, and present more grandeur and beaut}'^, than
can be found on the same area of ground on the west-
ern hemisphere.

Jforth Window of the Cupola. — On the left is CaiTrl
ibridgeport, with Old Cambridge in th.e distance. Har|
vard University is in this town, but cannot be riistincti
Jy pointed out. To' the right of Cambridge no it isEasi
.Cambridge, with its extensive glass works, wnich caDl
be distinguished by their tall chimneys. Beyond aDJl
a little to the left of East Cambridge, is seen the towel
of West Cambridge. Directly in the range of the gh\
works, is the McLean Hospital SDt the InsanJ
<(lQC^t.e;l jin SoiTiervillej} which 4S a department ofMas-l
sachiisetts General Hospital.

Somerville is a village Seen to the leit and partly eal
a hill, which is Winter Hill. This eminence servei|
as a protection to the Americans in their retreat frou
Bunker Hill"; and cannon-shot are frequently dug oil
of its sides. To the right of the Hospital, in the disl
tance, stand the ruins of the Ursuline Convent, on M|
Benedict. This Convent was burnt in the month
August, 1834«. Directly beyond the ruins is seen t
town of Medford, famous for its ship building. Mall
den is a town seen bevond and to thf» left th(> Bum

S t A T K 11 O U 8 K

Hill Monument. Let the eye cross the water, (which
n a part of Charles river,) directly east of the glass
works, to where stands the Massachusetts State Prison,
which is a cluster of granite buildinj^s, situated in the
city of Charleston. The principal objects in that town
l(j interest the stranger, are BiinLer liill Monument
land the Navy V^ard. A description of each, with oth-
^r objects in both cities, will be given in their propev
[place. The Navy Yard is to the right of the Monu-
ment, and can be easily distinguished by its ship hou-.
ses, under which stand some of tli43 largest ships of the
[American navy. In the back ground of the navy yard
is the town of Chelsea. In thi^ town are located the
hhiine and Naval Hospitals belonging to. the. United
pJtates, which are two large granite buildings, to the
rii^ht and left of the farther end of the Bridj^e. To, th(y
right of the town of Chelsea, in the distance, is the fa-
jiiious town of Lynn, already noti'ced.

From Lynn the attention is drawn baclj: to Boston;
t)ii the left the most prominent object which striltes
Iht! eye, is a large granite build ing^ which is the ]^as-
^ichusetts General Hospital, the left wing of whicl> has
feeeii erected within the past year. The funds foi?that
jurpose (about $60,000,) were subscribeiiT by a few be-
levolent individuals of the city; the objec* being to-
ifforJ more opportunity for free beds for poor people.
Phere is seen to the left of the Hospital, the Medical
tollege, tor the use of students during the season for
[he lectures on Medicine and Surgery. To the right

the Hospital is seen the Wells Schoolhouse. A
ii'ge church to the ri-jht of one fronting the spectator.

I * ■

' ii

31S

s r A T K nous i; .

is the West Cimrch, Jjetter known as Dr. Lowell's) on
Lyndo street. Two very lart^e l)uil(lingf?, seen direct-
ly over Dr. Lowell's Cliiirch, are the warehouses and
depot connected with the Boston and Lowell railroad.
Between the church and the depot can be seen the
County Jail. To the right of the jail is seen the school
house recently erected, called the Otis school, named
in honor of that venerable patriot, Harrison Gray Otis.
At the opening of the school in March, 1844&, Mr. 0-
tis was present, and among other things stated that for-
ty years ago, the place where the schoolhouse now
stands, was then a mill-pond, and the tide flowed into
it to the depth of ten or twelve feet. Nearer the spec-
tator, to the right of Dr. Lowell's church, are seen the
spire;' of Grace church, one of the most beautiful church-
es in Boston. A vacant lot could be seen, on which
8omo workmen were employed, which is intended for
one of the reservoirs for the aqueduct. Directly in
fr'ont of Grace church, in Bowdoin street, isseenBow-
doln street church, to the right of that is Bowdoin
square Baptist church. In rear of the latter church is
jpeen the National Theatre.

Or^ the extreme right is seen a church with the high
pteeple, wh.icl> is Christ church, in Salem street. This
rhui'ch contains a set of chime-bells, the music of which
;s truly delightful. It is situated near to Copp's Hill,
celebrated in the history of Boston. On this hill can
be found the tomb of the famous Increas* and Cotton
Mather. The eye cast over the top of the city to the
water, where s,ix bridges will attract the attention froti)
this window, Tb^ first on the extreme left js Cra^ie'?

i T A T i; 11 o r ft i: .

3h)

')ri(lge to Knst Camhriilgo ; tho next is Charles river
firid^r^, leadinp; to Catn!)riilgoport ; still farther to lh»»
ri.rht ar«^ Boston and Lowell railroatl hridt^c ; Boston
anil Maine railroad bridge; (the depot of this road if?
,•,'011 to tho right of the Bowdoin square church,) and
the Warren and Charleston bridges ; the two latter are
o\vned by the State afid are free bridges. Directly in
range of Cragie*s brid ^e is seen a curious round build-
ing, which is used as an engine house for tlwi Boston
and Lowell railroad.

To the right of the Boston end of the Warren bridge
is the depot of the Fitchburg railroad. A large round
building is seen in front of the State Prison in Charles-
ton, which is the engine house belonging to the Bos-
ton and Maine extension railroad. From this window,
on a clear day with a good telescope, two mountains
can be seen in a range of East Cambridge, one called
Mount Watutick on the borders of the State, and a lit-
tle to the right ot that can be seen the top of Mount
Monadnock, said to be situated in Jcflrcy, in the State
of New Hampshire.

I rom this same window, on a clear cfay the same
mountains can be seen without the aid of a telescope,
by simply fixing the eye upon a very large brick buil-
ding, situated in Ea«t Cambridge on the left, and rais-
ing the eye to the back ground, when can be seen tol-
erably distinct Mount Watutick, near the town of Ash-
burnham, on the borders of the Slate, as above named.
In the same manner can be seen Mount Monadnock, a
little to the right of it in the State of New Hamp-
shire.

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STAT r ir o u s f: ,

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East Window, — From this window we have the har-
bor, with its forts, islands, wharves and shipping, which
is truly a grand scene ol' itself, and more particularly
on tlie 4.th of July, when the mighty hay olMassachii-
setts was spotted over with ships, and the wharves
crowded: the whole of this powerful array of shippino-
with their hundreds ot towerir\g masts, all crowned
with national colors, proudly floating in the breeze,
had really an imposing eflect on the stranger while ga-
zing, on the scene from this window.

An island in front of the vyindow, at a distance ofc-
bout two miles, is knov.n hy the name of East Boston,.
and contains about 800 acres. It was ca41ed Noddle't;
island by tlie first settlers>.but of late years it has been
known by tlie name of William's Island. It is said
there Were but two or three houses upon it as late as
1833. The population at present is about 7000. The
rapid increase of this place is probably owing to.tlit^
Eastern railroad depot being there. A very large
brick building seen is the sugar refinery^ which is a
very extensive GonceT.n, employing about 100 men. —
To the right of the sugar-iiouse is the depot of the Eas-
tern railroad, antL still farther to the right, of thM is the
Cunard. wharf, used for the British line of mail steair-
ers. The first island on the right is Goverupr's islaml,
on which is situated fort Warren. To the right of fort
Warren in the distance, is the Boston Lighthouse, dis-
tant about 13 miles. To the left of Governor's island
is seen a beautiful little island, known as Apple island.
To the right h fort Independence, situated on Castle
iisland. It was at this fort that th^ nnlorious Steplieu

^ T A r i: II u u ? t: .

3'il

Burroughs was once coufinecj, tho fort at that tiine be-
ing uspd for the reception of convicts. Fort George u
seen in the distance, between Governor's Island and
Castle Island. The eye is again drawn to Boston, in
which we have a little to the left of a front view, Fan-
euil Hall, and directly between thai and thd water i-s
seen Faneuil Hall Market-
To the left of Faneuil Hall is seen the long block of
granite stores on Commercial wharf; and back of that
is Lewis's wharf. To the rig-ht of the market is seen
the Custom House, easily distinguished by its granite
dome, which is found on examination to be a splendid
structure. Directly between the Custom House and
the spectator, is seen a large stone building, occupied
by the Boston Museum, which is found to be an im-
mense granite edifice. In rear of the Museum is seen
the Court House, which is a beautiful granite buildino;.
A little to the left of Faneuil Hall Market, and near
the spectator, is seen the top of a church in Brattle
street. In the front of this church can be seen a can-
non ball embedded in the brick. The ball was fired
by the American army stationed in Cambridge, on the
night previous to the evacuation of Boston by the Brit-
ish, March i7th, 1770. The ball was picked up and
firmly fixed in the cavity it had formed.

A beautiful Gothic church is seen lieneath the spec-
tator's eye, which is the Swedenborgian church. To
the right of it and near the spectator, is Old South, a
church so called, and is at the corner of Washington
and Milk streets. During the revolution, the pews of

this church were taken out and used for fuel by the

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STATE II O U S fe .

British soldiers, and the building itself converted intd
a riding school for the dragoons belonging to Burgoyne's
army. To the right of the City Hall, nearer the spec-
tator, is the Massachusetts Horticultural Society's Hall,-
and to the right of that is seen the Tremont Temple,
(formerly the Tremont Theatre,) but laterly it has been
occupied by the far-famed Millerites. Immediately in
front of the Tremont Temple is the Tremont House, a
large and splendid granite edifice, occupied as a hoteL
Directly beneath the spectator's eye, on Beacon ^reetj
is seen a very large granite bnilding in process of erec-*
tion, which is intended for the Boston Athenaeum. —
The farthest point of land to be seen from this window
on the left, is Nahant, which has already been noticed.
The hotel is seen distinctly and is distant about 9 miles.
South Window. — Castle idand and fort Independ-
ence can be seen from this window, directly over the
sprre of Federal Street Church. To the right of the
church is seen, on a long island called Thompson's isl-
and, a farm school, belonging to the city, where per-
sons can place their boys at school and have them la-
bor upon a farm during a certain number of hours each
day. Directly in front of this island, stands the City
Prison, being the Houses of Correction, Reformation
and Industry, together with the Insane Hospital. The
House of Correction is devoted to the punishment of
•those convicted of crimes in the Police Court of the
city ; the House of Industry is for the support and re-
lief of the virtuous poor, who seek this refuge from
misfortune or age ; the House of Reformation is for the
punishment of juvenile offenders, who have not arrived

» T A T n li i: s i: .

at years of discretion. To the right of th<? prison, on
a hill, is seen the Perkins Institutute and Massachusetts
Asylum for the Blind, situated on one of the hills for-
tified by order of Washington during the occupation
of Boston by the British, the breastworks of which are
yet remaining.

In the back ground is the town of Quincy. A town
to the right of Quincy is Dorchester, and to the right
of Dorchester is Roxbury. The Boston and Providence
railroad and the Boston and Worcester railroad cross
each other in an open marsh on the right. The Prov-
idence railroad runs directly from the spectator. In
Boston the object on the extreme left as seen from this
window, is Federal Street Church. A church close to
the spectator is Park Street Church. From this win-
dow can be seen the Granary burial-ground, where is
a monument erected to the memory of the Franklin
family. To the right of Park Street Church, on Tre-
mont street, is the Masonic Temple, which is a rough
granite building. To the Iv ft of the Temple is seen
St. Paul's Church ; in a range is seen the spire of the
Baptist Church in Rowe street,

To the left of Park street church is seen Trinity
Church, which is a rough granite edifice, built in the
massive Gothic style, A little to the right of Trinity
Church is seen Young's Church. Over the top of Green
Church can be seen the Chauncey Place Church, which
belongs to the oldest religious society in Boston. Di-
rectly over a red brick turret, which is Essex street
Church, is seen the depot ol the Boston and Worcester
and Western railroad. This is easily seen by its ex-

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^fflUTI*'^''" -'" '

324

? T A !■ i: Tf o r 5 E .

tensive rooi"; and beyorwl this is seen the new Cath(3lic
Chnrch, a splendid edifice situated in South Boston. —
The depot of the Old Colony railroad is seen near the
depot of the Worccrster road. From this window can
be seen three different rnilroad routes to the city of
New York. The on>.' on the ri;^ht running directly
from you, will taUe 3'ou f)y the way of Providenco, in
Rhode Island, to Stonington in Connecticut, near the
head of Long Island Sound; the second by the way of
Worcester, to Norwich in Connecticut ] the oneonth;j
left, (which is the Old Culony railroad,) lead:; to Fall
river; each of which road?, are connected with steatn-
hoat lines, which run regular to the city of New York,
To the left of the Essex street Church, and near the
spectator, is seen the Latin sclioolliouse, a splendid ed-
ifice, in which there are two apartments: one for the
High School, where boys can prepare in the most thor-
ough manner for almost any business in life, and the
other where hoys are fitted for Coll e^. A large brick
buildins: seen to the nortli of the Boston and Worcester
depot, is the United States Hotel, which is the largest
in the city. The Common, directly beneath the spec^
tator's eye, contains fifty-five acres, and its form some-
what resembles a cone ; the whole handsomely and
tastefully laid out. Beautiful and well gravelled walks
are seen from this window in almost every direction
through the grounds;, together with its many graceful
shade trees and handsome iron fence, causes it to pre-
sent a very beautiful appearance. Between the Com-
m.on and the morshj is seen the public Garden, with
its numerous shrubbery, (lower?, swings, he.

STAT i: If it i; s E .

IVesi Window. — Directly beneatli the eye, on the
left, is seen the house that was once owned and occu-
pied by the Hon. John Hancock ; it is easily noticed
by its antique appearance, being built of very rough
stone. A bridge in front is the western avenue. Pre-
vious to the building of this bridge or causeway, which
is constructed of earth and stone, and is thereby made
solid, all the lowlands to the south of it, (part of which
is yet a marsh,) were overflowed by the tide with as
much water as there is now on the north side of the
causeway, which is 10 or 12 feet deep, A great ma-
ny houses are now built on land so reclaimed. Some
buildinsrs seen on the farther end of the avenue, are
known by the name of the City Mills. Directly over
them is seen the town of Brooklin. A body of water
seen in front is Charles river. Cambridgeport is on the
right, which is also seen upon the left from the north
window. Between Cambridgeport and the window is
seen just in front, the Charles street Baptist Church, a
truly splendid structure. Directly in range with the
church is seen the town of Brighton. By carefully
observinoj the horizon a little to the rio;ht of the church,
on a clear day, the Wachusett Mountain can be seen,
which mountain I saw very distinctly with the aid of
a telescope, without which it cannot be distinctly seen.
It is situated near the town of Princeton, and near the
source of the Chickopee river.

The view from these windows is truly very rxten?^
give and variegated ; perhaps nothing in the United
States is equal to it. From this* window is a ^n\Q
view of Charlec river and the bay, the town of Cam-

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(^26

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bridge, rendered venerable for the University two cen-
turies old, and the nunncrous towns in the distance. —
Fronn the north window the eye is met by the memo-
rable heights of Charleston, crowned with a towerino-
monument, which stands there boldly to commemorate
not only our liberty, but the dawn of the liberty oftho
world.

CHAPTER XXX.

Fanoiiil Hall — View from the Cupola — Old buildings — Paintings
— Qiiincy Market — Custom- House — Order of Architecture —
Museum — Massachusetts General Hospital — Court-House —
Old State Flouse — Houses of Industry, Correction and Refor-
mation — AthencRum — Institution for the Blii. * — Eye and Ear
Infirmary — Trinity Churciv — St, Paul's Church — Park Street
Church — Bridges — Wharves — Boston Common — Valuation of
the Common — Remark — Cemetery — Pond — Great Elm Tree.

After enjoying the magnificent prospect Irom the
windows of the cupola of the State House, the next
move of the stranger will be to visit Faneuil Hall, sit-
uated at the intersection of State and Tremont streets.
This venerable old building is so thronged with im-
mortal reminiscenses as to be called the "cradle of lib-
erty." This structure was commenced in the year
1740, by Peter Faneuil, Esq., and in 1742, or 2 years
afterwards, at his own expense, and generously given
to the town. It is built of brick which have since been
stained to the color of grey granite. The lower story
of the building was intended by Mr. Faneuil for a mar-
ket-house, and used as such till the year 1827, the sc-

1 ■-«'lr»'1

F A N E u I L Hall.

327

Con J story being used as a Town Hall. The buildino;
was then 100 feet in length and 40 feet in width. —
This valuable gift was consumed by fire, (except the
brick walls,) several years after the death of Mr. Fan-
euil, or some time in the year 1761. Boston, howev-
er, resolved immediately to rebuild it in the same style
it was before, it being the building in which meetings
were held, and Columbia's illustrious sons counselled
together, for the purpose of giving proud old England
that staggering blow, from which she never will recov-
er to the end oi time* In 1805 it was enlarged, by
adding 40 feet to its width, and 25 to its elevation,
thus making it one hundred feet by eighty feet. There
is a cupola on the building, affording a fine view of the
harbor and a large portion of the old part of the city.
In the immediate vicinity of this noble old building can
be seen many of those old, antiquated, gable-ended,
top-heavy houses, crowded together, as if the little hil-
ly peninsula of Boston was the only spot of ground on
earth. This constituted the compact centre of Boston
in the days of the old English Governors ; and so far as
the word compact is concerned, I think it was very
appropriately applied, and the word might bo applied
to the whole of the city without doing it the least in-
justice, as the whole is too densely built for the com-
fort and health of its thousands of inhabitants. From
this cupola is presented a fine view of many of the
i crooked narrow streets of Boston, whose winding course
present a gloomy appearance, especially when con-
[trasted with the streets of many other cities.
The hall in this memorable old building is now a-

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FAN!:rrr, iiAr.i, -QfnNf'i' maiUvI.t.

bout 80 feet square and 28 I'cet in hoiji;lit, willi hand-
some galleries on three sides, supported by a number
of very beautiful Doric columns. At the west end of
the hall, the wall is ornamented with a number ui
splendid paintings, among which may be seen the hiuul-
some full-len^^th likeness of Mr. Faneuil, the donor ol
the edifice, alt^o Gens. Washington, Knox, Green, Put-
nam, and a host of military heroes ; to which may i)e
added Governor Hancock, Samuel Adams, and a splen-
did bust of John Adams, all Columbia's noble sons, who
lilted up their voices and patriotic arms for freedom.
Here are presented to view the beauteous forms of nvj-
ny of that brother-band of virtuous patriots, whoonth*
side of Columbia toiled and bled for liberty, who bathe(i
their noble forms in sweat and blood, till they fell ai
the feet of their mourning and weeping country, aftei
having once dazzled the world with the glare of their
exploits. The lower story of the building contains tlv
armories of the different military companies of th(» city,
it beino- no lono-er used as a market.

Faneuil Hall Market, (sometimes known as Quincv
Market,) erected in 1827, is an immense building, si.\
hundred feet in length and fifty feet in width, two sto-
ries high, constructed of granite, at a cost of $150,000,
It is built of land once overQown by the tides, but suf-
ficiently reclaimed from the waters to answer for the
foundation of the building. The lower story is divi-
ded into 130 stalls, and the second story similarly fur-
nished. The building on market days, presents a scene
of considerable interest. Here the stranger may per-
ceive the eddying throngs, gathering and whirling

>u|tl.V

cusfo^T i\orpn.

31J9

^vattoring and hurrying liither anil thither inthe activ-
ity ol a market-place. He may become confused by
the never-ending turbulence and commotion, with tht>
Inmdred's of mingled notes and' noif^es wliich sro arising
from the multifarious throny hen? colTected -. all com-
mingling in the same hour, in the same street and in
the same scene, with their waiters, pans, buckets, bas-
kets and all manner of things, for bearing ofFa portion
of the great varie.ty^ of eatables wLth which the market
abounds.

Th,e Custom House, situated on a low level site, on ki-
dia street, at the foot of State street, is built of Quincy
granite, and is truly a splendid structure. It is advan-
tageously situated between Long and Central wharves,,
and is perhaps one of ttie most beautiful and yibstantial
buildings in our country. It would be difTicult to find
terms of description, which would convey an adequate
idea ot the effect produced by the architectural arrange-
ments of this structure. The most that I can say ot
this elegant edifice is, that the new Custom House ot
Boston is imposing in its dimensions, harmonious in its
proportions, impressive in its solidity, and beautiful in
its strength. The following, ho\yever, are the most
striking features of this gr.eat edifice-: The order of Its
architecture is the Grecian Doric, which styl-e is pre-
served througho.ut as far as is consistent with the site
and the business to which the building is devoted. The
extreme length of the building is 140 leet,and itsdeptU
omitting the porticoes, is 75 ieet. The height from
the basement floor to the top of the dome, is 05 feet.
Externally, 32 fluted columns are presented, each 5

• ■ y 4

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330

CUsTOM lIuUSK.

t^M

C' it

feet 4 inches in diameter and 32 feet in hoiglit. Of
these, IG arc three-quarter columns, and form part ol"
the walls ; the space between them being devoted to
windows. There are four of these columns at each end
of the building, and two on each side of the porticos.
Then at each corner is a nearly full column, so that
each end ol the building presents the appearance of six
of these fine columns : and the sides, including the por-
ticos, severally exhibit twelve columns. Four antea
or square pillars, stand at the intersection of the porti-
cos with the body of the building.

The porticos are ten feet deep by sixty-six in width,
with six columns, each of the same dimensions stated
above. The entablatures are ornamented with triglyph,
friezes and mutule corniccss on a line with the corni-
ces of the building. The porticos are reached by 11
beautiful stone steps on the fronts and sides.

The roof of the structure throughout, and the ingla-
zed part of the dome are covered with granite tiles,
which are visible from many places in the city ; the
best points of view however at a distance, except the
State House, are some points of view in State Street.

Passing from the principal external visible features
of the building, we proceed to the foundation on which
it rests. This consists of 3000 piles, covering an area
of nearly 14000 feet. On these piles has been laid a
platform of granite, a foot and a half thick, well ce-
mented together, so as to be impervious to water. On
the east, south and west margins of this platform, is
built a ten foot shield wall, and within the enclosure
'thus forraeds stand the wall proper of the Custom House.

CUSTOM II o u rf i: .

331

The collar is much crt up by arches and \valh? of
vast thickness, required to su iport tlio immense weij^ht
ot the internal stone work above. A number ofrooms
however, 12 ieet high, are secured for stora*;ej and an
apartment for the furnaces for heating the whole oC
this large and beautiful establishment.

The first story open to the light of day is the base-
ment. In addition to the thick wall partitions separa-
ting the rooms, are four granite columns, four feet in
diameter, and eight others two feet in diameter. These
t\Telve columns are distributed througrh the rooms as
supporters. In the northwest corner are two rooms
for the night inspectors : one 12 feet by 22, and the
other 15 feet by 24-. In the southwest corner is a
room 10 feet by 13, for the engine for carrying the
fans by which the heated air is to be forced up. The
remainder o^" the rooms in this story are for storage. —
They are about 11 feet high.

In the second story of this grand structure, the main
feature is the splendid entrance vestibule or rotundo,
60 feet square, which is formed by 12 granite columns,
4 feet in diameter. From the north and south sides
rise too grand stair-cases, 15 feet wide at the bottom
and 7 feet at the top, terminating in smaller vestibules
above which connect with the various offices in the
third story. On the northwest side of the grand vesti»
)ule, are the Assistant Treasurers' apartments which
ire three in number. The two largest are 20 feet by
22, and 16 by 25. The smaller is 12 feet square. —
This is the vault, or Uncle Sam's strong box. In the
northwest corner is the Measurers apartments, one 19

.1.12

CUSTOM H () t; S F? .

Tect by 29, and tlio olhcr !) ('♦•ot by 12. Next to thi-*
is the Su})<'rintendeiit\s rouin, \'l by l(i, and ailjoiriincr
that W(»st, tlic njoni for tbt; markers and appruvers ol
spirits, lUlt'otby If). In tht* southwest corner are the
rooms of the Weighers and (Jaui^ery, one 22 feet by 33,
and the o,ther 15 feet b}' 12. Tn the southeast corner
are two rooms for the Inspectors, one 40 feet by 33,
and the other 8 feet by 12. In one of these rooms are
4 granite columns, 11 feet high. In most of the rooms
in this story, the ceiling is arched.

The third story is gained by either of two grand stair-
cases, already noticed, in which we find the great bu-
siness room, under the direction of the Deputy CoHec-
tor. It is 62 leet by .^)8, and lighted Irom tlie dome
and by six windows opening on the east and west,an(t
two end windows, opening on lighted passages. The
dome is supported by 12 fluted Corinthian columns of
marble, 30 feet in height. Above fhem rises the dome
32 feet more. Tl;e lower circumference of the dome
is 195 feet, or about G5 feet in diameter. The circum-
feTen.ce of the eye of the dome is 57 feet, or about 19
feet in diameter, and is furnished with beautifully va-
riegated stained glass, which send down a flood of mel-
lowed light, which has a graad and imposing eflTect. —
This is said to be the most perfect and st\perb hall in
the Corinthian style, to be found in the United States.

Throughout this splendid edifice the flooring is stone,
Qf a fine quality. On the third floor, in the northwest
coa'ner, are the Collectors apartments ; one 28 feet by
20, and the other 10 by 12. In the northeast corner
are the naval oflicer.^ apartments; one 19 by 2t and the

M U R K U M .

ay.1

oilier 11 by '25. The ^outhefist corner contains the
surveyer's apartments, 1!7 by 19 and 11 by 10. In the
soutliweit corner are the public storekeepers, 1!5 feet
by 20. In the attic of this buiklin<^, there is an exti;>
room for the markers, which is 11 feet by 18, a room
for storing papers belonging to the Collector's oflfice,
which is 64 feet by 20, and another room of the same
dlimensions, for ^be papers of the Snrvcyer's office.

'Hie Boston Museum is situated about halfway be-
tween the State House and Custom House, and occu-
pies a fine site on Tremont street. It is an immense
granite edifice, covering Lbout 20,000 feet ol land. —
This structure was erected in 1846, forthecx,press [nir-
pose, at a cost of upwards of $200,000. Xhe collec-
tion is exceedingly curious & valuable., coof^prising near-
ly half a million objects of'interest, embracing every
yariety of birds, quadrupeds, reptiles, insects,, shells,
minerals and fossils ^ and extensive gallery of costly
,paintings, engravings and statuary ; togellier with an
innumerable variety of rare and curious specimens of
nature and art, from all parts of the world. The col-
lection is admirably arranged for inspection, and with,
the extreme order and neatness everywhere observed,
has risen to be one of the most prominent jilaces of in-
terest to strangers visiting the city. Connected wiili
this famous insUtutioii, in an adjoining large buildipg,
is a spacious hall, where splendid performances are giv-
ea every evening and Wednesday and Saturday after-
iioons, free of charge to visitors of the Museum.

The Massachuietts General Hospital is a splendid
p;ranito ^tructurr, '.iluated at thn west end of Boston, oi^

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384

H o s r i t A L *

land formerly called Prince's Pasture. The cornef-
slone oi this elegant edifice was laid on the 4th of Ju-
ly, 1818, in the presence of many persons of dignity in
public life, and a numerous assemblage of citizens. It
is said the civil, religious and masonic services were
performed with such impressive pomp, as rendered the
whole scene truly solemn and interesting. This famous
building was so far completed on the first ol Septem-
ber, 1821, as to be in a fit condition to receive patients*
The main building with its right wing was finished in
1821 ; the left wmg was only erected within the past
year. This edifice has been pronounced the finest buil-
ding in the old Bay State. It stands on a small emi-
nence, open to the south, east and west. The length
of the building is 168 feet and its greatest breadth is 54
feetj having a portico of eight Ionic columns in front.
The building is constructed of Chelmsford granite, the
columns and their capitals bemg of the same material.
In the centre of the two principal stories are the rooms
of the officers of the institution. Above these rooms is
the operating theatre, which is very handsome place,
lighted from the dome. The wings of this edifice are
divided into wards and sick rooms. The staircase and
floorings of the entries are of stone, well polished. The
whole of this splendid structure is supplied with heathy
air-flues from furnaces, and with water by pipes and a
forcing- pump. From every part of this building can be
seen the beautiful hills which surround Boston. The
grounds belonging to this building have been greatly
improved, by the planting of ornamental trees & shrubs,
and the extension of the gravel walks, for those patients

ti'i'M

■ H,j.'.;i:t'.

I^UBLIC BUILDINGS.

335

r;/*;:

whose health will admit of exercise in the open air.^
These beautiful grounds though small, (being only about
4 acres,) make truly a handsome appearance. The
grounds on the southwest arc washed by the waters of
the bay.

The Court-House, situated in rear of the Boston Mu-
seum, is a large and splendid edifice, constructed of
granite. It is 176 feet in length, 54" in width and 57
in height. This is the most beautiful building of the
kind I ever saw, and so capacious, that at times eight
Courts are all in session without interfering with each
other.

The Old State House, situated at the head of State
street, built in the year 1748, is replete with revolu-
tionary reminiscences. This old building was long the
place where the General Court of the province of Mas-
sachusetts \vas holdcn, until the erection and dedica-
tion of the State House on Beacon Hill, already descri-
bed. The Houses of Industry, Correction and RefoN
raation, situated in South Boston, are admirably con-
ducted institutions, a short sketch of which was given
in the notes taken from the Cupola, at the South win-
dow. The Boston Athenceum, established in 1806, has
a library of over 40,000 volumes, a collection of valua-
ble paintings, busts, &c. There is a large and splen-
did grate structure ih process of erection on Beacon
street, which is intended for this Athenceum.

The Institution for the Blind, at South Boston, estab-
lished in 1832, is a celebrated charity. The Medical
branch of Harvard University, founded in 1782, is a
large and splendid brick building at the foot of Bridge

jpr

■lv'r;.U

s-^l.

runHC BUlLDiNGS^iRHIDGfirs.

street, winch are respectively institutions richly worth
a visit. The city contains an Eye and Ear Infirmary .
also 25 banking institutions, with large and splendid
buildings for the purpose. There are here 25 insurance
companies, 30 printing establishments, 57 primary
ijcboolg, one African school lor black*, and numerou;.
private schools for children of both sexes, and no less
than 106 IHejary and charitable societies, all in a flour-
ishing conTlition.

Boston contains 76 large and handsome churcJies, ^-
mong which may be named Trinity church, an elegant
edifice, built of granite in tlft) Gothic style, situated at
the corner of Summer and Havy ley Greets. It contains
a very large and splendid fine toned organ.

St. Paul's church, consecrated in 1820, built pf gran-
ite in the Ionic style, 112 leet in length and 72 feet in
width, situated on Tremont street, near the Masonic
Temple, is a very beautiful edifice.

Park Street church, situated on Park street, at the
northeast end of the Boston Common, was consecrated
in 1810. It is a very large granite structure, and is

one of the most lofty and elegant churches in New En^-
land; the steeple is 218 feet high.

Boston is connected with Charleston by meanii o(
Charles river bridge, opened in 17SG. It is Jl"503 feet
Ion-, 42 feet wide and cost originally $50,000: alio
by Warren bridge, opened in 1828. It is 1390 feet
long and 11 feet wide. The city is connected with
Caml^iiidge by West Boston bridge, opened in 171)3, and
io 2758 feet long. Tlie famous causeway constructed
nf >,toin< '.\]\i\ 'Milh. "ts !] It! {Vol lonp: •.\n<\ rn^,t $;7fi,or»T

WHARVES

337

South Boston bridge, leading from Boston week to South
Boston, was opened in 1805, and is 1550 feet long, 40
feet wide and cost $50,000. Canal Bridge, leading to
Lechmere's Point, opened in 1809, is 2796 feet long
and 40 leetwide. — An arm extends to Prison Point in
Charleston, which is 1820 feet long and 35 feet wide.
The Western Avenue from Beacon street to Sewell's
Point, in Brookline, was opened in 1821, is one mile
and a half long and 100 teet wide. This avenue forms
a dam across Charles river Bay, and cost $700,000. —
Boston Free Bridge from Sea street to South Boston,
opened in 1828, is 500 feet long and 38 feet wide. —
There are also five handsome railroad bridges on which
the cars pass over the waters into the city.

The Wharves of "^t ^ton exceed those of any other
city in the Union ■ - laps, in convenience and magni-
tude. There are wharves around about half the main
city, from the bridge of the old Colony railroad at the
south, to the bridge of the Boston and Maine railroad
at the north. The whole of the wharves are built as
close to each other, as they could conveniently be made;
they somewhat resemble the cogs of a wheel, when
viewed from some eminence in the city.

Long wharf, at the foot of State street, is 1800 leet
long and 200 feet wide, and has on it a row of ware-
houses 76 in number. Central wharf, built in 1816,
is 1380 feet in length and 150 feet in width ; over the
centre is a large observatory, trom which high tower
the stranger can look down on a forest of ship masts,
crowded together in the wharves and bay, which have

truly a very imposing eilVct. On this wharf arc 54
15

' .i%

\^l

33^

XIOStON COMMOK.

wareliouses, four stories high. Commercial wharf, 1,-
100 feel long and 160 feet wide, contains 34 large
granite warehouses.

The Boston Common, a piece of ground in the form
of a cone, contains 55 acres, which is enclosed with a
substantial iron fence, erected on stone cappings. Thu
height of the fence is about eight feet, beautifully paint-
ed, and cost the sum of $100,000. The ground is laid
out with gravelled walks, bordered with ornamental
trees of the choicest species. A more delightful spot
in summer, is not to be found in any city of its size in
the United States.

This famous Common has been valued by the proper
authority of the city, at four doUara for every square
foot of land enclosed by the iron fence, which would
be the sum of $9,583,200 for 55 acres of land, which
in many other places perhaps would be considered an
extravagant valuation. But this spot of ground is not
only prized by the authorities of the city, but it is val-
ued by every class of citizens as being the only place in
the city to which they can resort for fresh air and en-
joyment. To the many thousands of inhabitants of
this densely built city, how pleasant and significant is
that name, the Common j not the Park nor the Mall,
but simply the Boston Common ; a place owned in
common by all the citizens of Boston, and in which
every citizen has a common right and interest : a place
where the rich and poor may meet together and enjoy
the common bounties of heaven, — fresh air, green grass
and waving trees : a place set apart for the common
good and happiness of the citizens of Boston.

How 1
io this re
the trave
and confi
Walls, in
he arrivei
and witne
piece of c(
the memo
sons on th
gift of this
It is not
and heahh
dreds and i
ing been pi
their weari
is hoped in^
long the wi
The grea
adjoining it
House, ther
ing the sout
^ery, both o
ments. Ke
Pond, whicl
tifully wall(
pond the bo;
ged, so that j
^vhile the bo
lifted hands,
tlieir respect

BO=>TOJ> COMMON — rt)Nr).

335

How rich a boon is even this one breathing place,
to this reriowed and densely built old city. And even
the traveller from the country, after being housed up
and confined for only three or four days between brick
walls, in passing the narrow streets of the city, when
he arrives at the Common, and strolls along its walks
and witnesses the amount of happiness, which this one
piece of common ground can afford, he cannot but bless
the memory of those to whom he, as well as those per*
sons on the Common with him are indebted, for the
gift of this breathing ground, the Boston Common.

It is not boys and girls alone that are mad6 happier
and healthier by this sweet Common. There are huti*
dreds and thousands of men and women too, who hav-
ing been pent up all day between brick walls, refresh
their wear}' bodies, invigorate their jaded minds, and K
is hoped improve their hearts, by an evening's stroll a-
long the walks of this famous Common.

The greatest extent of this Common is east and west ;
adjoining its eastern extremity, and near the State
House, there is a very beautiful Cemetery ; and adjoin-
ing the southern fence there is a very splendid Ceme-
tery, both of which contain beautiful tombs and moniH
ments. Near the centre of the Common there is a
Pond, which in form resembles an ellipsis. It is beau-
tifully walled up around the edge with stvone. In this
pond the boys have a nqmber of little ships well rig-
ged, so that the breeze blows them from bank to bank,
while the boys stand in crowds on the bank with up-
lifted hands, shouting on the departure and approach of
their respective little ships.

■ ■ , (

: ■ U

noSTON COMMON — ELM TilEL'.

A little to the south of the Pond stands the great Ehri
Tree, planted by an ancestor of Governor Hancock's
lamily oy the name of Henchman. Its age can never
be ascertained, as the trunk is hollow, so that boys ac-
tually went in and out at pleasure according to tradi-
tion, within fifty or sixty years ; the concentric circles
marking its growth are therefore obliterated. It is a-
bout 65 feet high, the extent of its branches is about 90
feet, and Its girth a little above the ground nearly 22
feet. All its large branches are well braced with rods
of iron, so as to prevent the wind from splitting them
b£F. The tree is enclosed by a vety handsome fence,
constructed in a circular form and about seven feet in
height, so that persons cannot even have the pleasure
of touching this famous old tree. In a western direc-
tion fVom this Common, there are no buildings to ob-
struct the view for some distance, as in that direction
there is a large open marsh.

CHAPTER XXX I.

*iDelebralionofthe4th of July— Order of the Procession— The
afterhoon— Colours— National salute— Sky ■ rockets— Position
and appearance of the apparatuses connected with the Fire-
works Commencement of the chief part of the Fire-worka—

Spouting fire— Circle of Stars— Statues, Dome, American
Eagle and Banners— Sugar Refinery- A portion of the vari-
ous apparatuses and processes connected with the refining cs-
Vablisliment.

On the Boston Common^ I witnessed the celebration
of the 4th ot July, where there wcrc collected togetli-

12:11115, at a

W\'ih\-

rounrii or julv.

or an immcnsp crowd of" persons, during the day and
evening. The celebration was opened by a National
salute of thirty guns, on the morning of the 4th at sun-
rise. At 8 o'clock, a procession of hundreds and thous-
ands of persons began to move from Faneuil Hall, at
the head of which was a very splendid regiment of sol-
diers, all uniformed in a very costly and handsome
style; they were followed by the Mayor and principal
authorities of the city ; in rear of them the different be-
nevolent societies of the city : in rear of which follow-
ed the citizens. At 9 o'clock, a large portion of the
procession entered the Common, where the military
companies made a very handsome display for about two
hours, after which there were a number of very elo»
quent Orations delivered.

At 1 o'clock, the procession again moved toward
Faneuil Hall and dispersed. During the afternoon the
military companies marched through the principal
streets of the city, accompanied by a number of very
splendid bands of music, while scores of colors were
suspended over the streets by cords, from window to
window, proudly waving their lovely stripes over the
heads of the soldiers, as they marched through the streets
of the Granite city, to commemorate the great deed of
Columbia's first and greatest sons. At precisely 30 min-
utes before sunset, commenced a national salute of 30
guns, at an entraval of one minute between the report
of each. At the discharge of the Massachusetts and
Virginia guns, there was given such a tremendous shout
for each, that it appeared to almost rock the peninsula
on which Boston is situated ;. truly the most deafening

U^,

I '

■J m I J

1
n

¥ }

lii

3i.2

F 1 R Ii - \V O R K S

shout 1 ever heard for the old Dominion, in uU my lU'at.
At sunset, alter the discharge of the last gun of the na-
tional salute, while the hollow thunder of its report
could still be heard in the distance, commenced the fi-
ring of slvy-rockets, at intervals of one minute between
each discharge, which continued till 9 o'clock. The
rockets would burst in the air, and balls of fire would
diverge as from a common centre, and tending their
course downwards, followed by a stream of fire resem-
bling a comet, each ball burning with a brilliancy that
dazzled the eye ; every ball being tinged with a differ-
ent color from another, and so directed as to descend
within the Common.

At 9 o'clock commenced the showing of the princi-
pal part of the fire-works, which is said to be the great-
est ever exhibited in America ; even a tolerable descrip-
tion of which it is not in my power to give. A part
of the apparatus connected therewith was situated on
the most prominent eminence in the Common, and be-
fore they were set on fire, the largest had the appear-
ance of consisting of timbers or other materials framed
together: the lower frame of an oblong form, about 80
feet long and 40 feet high ; on the top of this frame
was a semicircle, the profile of which resembled the
dome of a building ; this dome or semicircle was crown-
ed by the American Eagle with expanded wings, which
were about 15 feet from wing to wing.

The dome contained thirteen large stars within its
circumference, each being about four feet in diameter.
The other spaces in the semicircle were filled up with
banners and other appropriate devices. Just below

FIRE-WORK*.

343

the semicircle were the words in very large letters, a-
bout three leet in length, "177G, The dawn of the Lib-
erties of the world,^* These words extended along the
whole length of the work ; immediately under the cen-
tre of those words was placed a statue of Justice, with
the right hand extended upward, holding the scale to-
ward the letters ; immediately under the figures 177C,
was placed a statue of Washington, and immediataly
under the word "world" was placed a statue of Lafay-
ette ; the spaces between were filled up with stars and
stripes and other appropriate emblems. This apparat-
us, from the ground to the beak of the eagle, was about
85 feet in height. In front of this on the brow of the
eminence, were 13 very large stars, each supported by
a post about 20 feet high, placed in a circular form,
each star about 8 feet in diameter. In the centre of
this circle of stars was placed a large bee-hive on a
pillar ; the hive revolved, and resembled in form and
size, a small haystack, around which were placed the
apparatus for the spouting, spinning and reeling of fire.
On the top of the little hill or eminence, and immedi-
ately in rear of the whole of those apparatuses, was the
battery, from which proceeded the sky-rockets already
briefly sketched. The whole of those emblems were
so constructed and of such material, that they would
take fire in succession and burn for about four minutes
each, with such brilliancy as to dazzle the e3^e of the
beholder. At 9 o'clock, this part of the exhibition
commenced, by the firing of comets or balls of fire, at
an elevation of about 15 feet above the lieads of the
crowd, w^hich comets would cross each other in every

y ■■ a .1

■if

F I R K - W II K Jl ,

direction, and so soon as they arrived at the edge ol
the Common, they would turn at angles of about 45
degrees, at which time a report could be heard as loud
as the report of a musket when discharged, in which
way they would pass and repass over the heads of the
crowd, from two to three times, in doing which, no
other noise could be heard than that caused by the re-
sistance of the air.

!Hext came the spouting, spinning and reeling of fire,
the whole of which was grand in the extreme, and had
more the appearance of being under the direction ol a
supreme artificer, than being conducted by man. When
this with many other things of a similar kind had pas-
sed off, the hive was fired by a match ; it revolved,
burning with all the primary colors, which presented
the most gaudy appearance, for being composed of fire,
that was ever witnessed in. iJoston ; while the hive was
surrounded by swarms ol bees composed of fire.

Next the circle of stars took fire in succession, each
one burning four or five minutes, with all the primary
colors, in the most grand and brilliant style, while out
of every star would proceed rockets or fire balls, from
almost every point of the star, which were propelled
to a considerable distance in the air, where they would
explode, and streams of fire descend in awful grandeur
toward the earth. — And last of all, came the large part
viz : the statues, dome and American eagle, which
crowned the whole in beauty and grandeur; which,
with its splendid statues, letters, stars and stripes, w ith
the American eagle with expanded wings, crowning
the whole. This apparatus, with all its beautiful or-

FlRE-WoftKS.

34ri

naments, statues and emblems, burnorl for ri<rht or ton
minutes, with the various primary colors, with such a
brilliancy as to dazzle the eye of the beholder; the
same as it would if gazing upon the effulgent face ot
the meredian sun; while rockets would ascend from al-
most every point ol the apparatus, and after being pro-
pelled far in the air, would explode, and streams of fire
diverge from their respective centres, and bend their
way downward to the gazing thousands, who with their
thrilling shouts and uplifted hands, aided in commemo-
rating the great deed of Columbia's sterling sons. The
whole was perhaps the grandest artificial display ever
witnessed in America. The exhibitions of the day
and night were entertaining and instructive through-
out, rendered more thrilling as they were exhibited in
the very "Cradle of Liberty."

Thus ended the celebration of the ^th of July. The
features of a few of the most prominent emblems, and
the position they occupied, have been sketched, leav-
ing many others unnoticed, which were used on the
occasion, and the causes and effects therewith conect-
ed. What was the cause of this or the cause of that, I
leave for some scientific individual to give, as science
had complete command of the whole. It yet remains
for me and thousands of others who witnessed the same,
to learn the causes and effects therewith connected in
every particular ; to know how those emblems couW
spout fire far into the air, and Jreel it as yarn ; throw
rockets toward the heavens, and the whole burn with

such bright effulgence as to dazzle the eye, and yet its
chief features not be consumed or destroyed.

:1I

V .'

S U G All u i: V i M L It V

;.l

The Sugiii R<'iini ry, situated in East lioston, is a vi*
ry largo brick building, and is a very extensive con-
cern, employing about one hundred men. It is very
lofty, consists of an unusual number of floors or stories,
and lighted by over one hundred windows, most of them
small, and at such a height as to have aeven floors be-
tween them and the ground. A visit to this refinery,
and a day spent in the establishment, would be inter-
esting to any traveller who had never visited a like
concern. The hogsheads of sugar are brought on drays,
from the docks to the front ofUhe building, and are
hauled up by a crane and drawn in at an open door, to
a large square room. This is the first part of the refi-
nery which I visited, and a busy scene it presented. —
Here was a hogshead of sugar suspended irom the crane,
there was another hogshead deposited on a low iron car-
riage Justin from the door, andnear it was a third lying
weighed ; a little farther on was a man knocking out
the head of a hogshead, and near him a party emptying
the contents of another already opened, while others
were removing empty hogsheads.

The sugar when about to be operated on, is shovel-
led into large circular vessels, called by the refiners,
blow-uj) cisterns ; so called from the mode in which
the steam is admitted to the contents of the vessels. —
The cisterns are six oi ^even feet in diameter and a-
bout five feet in height ; and the purpose for which they
are employed is to dissolve the sugar, preparatory to
the removal of earthy and other impurities, with which
sugar is well known to be contaminated j in addition
to which, there are two other substances which require

SUGAR Jt r F I N r a V .

ni7

Jo he removt»d from tins suf^ar, beluro tin- Mhile crys-
talline state can be obtained, and thoy are coloring mat-
ter and molasses.

Three distinct processes are resorted to in order to
remove these substances. To remove the impurities is
the first object. The su^nr as before stated is thrown
mto the blo\v-np cistern, and water is admitted to it
from a cistern at the top of the edifice, which supplies
every part of this vast estalilishment. Into the cistern
containing the sugar and water, there is added a small
quantity of li mo- water, which is brought fron Ia7,!;e
vessels in the building, where the lime is dissolved in
water, and stirred till a milky fluid is i)roducod, from
which it is conveyed in small quantities to the cistern
containing the sugar. From an engine, steam is forc-
ed into the solution, by which the latter becomes heat
ed in a short space of time, aided by constant stirring.

The temperature of the solution is not greater than
that of boiling water. The saccharine solution, which
is called in the language of refinery, liquor, is not skim
med at all ; but at a certain stage in the operation, it is
allowed to flow from the blow-up cistern into a range
of filtering vessels in a room beneath, into which filters
it enters as a thick, opaque, blackish liquid. "The ar-
rangement of these filters is exceedingly ingcuious.-^-
They consist of several cast-iron vessels, each contain-
inof a large number of cloth tubes attach .d to short me-
tallic tubes, which are screwed in circular holes in the
upper part of the vessels, and hanging vertically down-
ward. Each of these tubes contain a lar2;e bag, made
oi a close kind of cotton cloth, and coiled up so as t^

4^
% * I'

m ^ r-.^ ' ": :.

348

S i; {; A R II L* r I N E R Y

make a compact mass ol cloth. The liquor flows from
the blow-up cisterns into a shallow vessel to which the
tubes are attached, and thence through the bags con-
tained in the tubes. 'I'here is no outlet for the liquid
except through the meshes of the cloth, and as the
cloth forming the bags is doubled and redoubled in its
tube, the liquid finds its way through between the plies
and folds of the cloth, and finally exudes in a transpa-
rent state. The whole of the impurities, except a lit-
tle coloring matter, are retained by the bags and tubes,
while the saccharine liquor passes through. After the
bags become clogged, the tubes to which they are at-
tached are unscrewed and removed to a washing-yard,
where the impurities are removed, and the bags and
tubes thoroughly cleansed by washing. The saccha-
rine matter contained in the impurities, is afterwards
extracted for other pu poses by various processes.

The next point in our visit was the rooms in which
the process of decoloration is carried on. All the li-
quor as it leaves the filters flows through pipes into o-
ther parts of the building, occupied by charcoal cisterns,
each of which is a square vessel about four feet high,
and provided with a double bottom, the upper one be-
ing perforated with small holes. On this perforated
bottom a piece of cloth is laid, on the cloth a layer of
powdered animal charcoal or boneblack, between two
and three feet thick.

The saccharine liquor flows on the surface of this
charcoal bed, through which it slowly finds its way per-
colating to the bottom, then through the meshes ot the
cloth and perforated bottom, into the vacant space be-

SUGAR 11 E ri N E R i' .

349

neatli. The effect of this filtration is truly very stri-
king, for the liquor, which though transparent, is of a
reddish color when it flows into these cisterns of char-
coal, leaves them in a state of colorless transparency,
almost equal to that of water. This is the way the col-
oring matter is removed from brown sugar, and is the
second process in refining sugar in such establishments.

Near the room which contains these cisterns of char-
coal, is an apartment called retort-house, supplied with
furnaces, retorts and various subsidiary arrangements ;
the whole of which curious apparatus, whose use might
to a stranger appear rather inexplicable, in a sugar re-
finery exemplify one of the most curious and valuable
properties in the charcoal employed. When the pro-
cess of decoloring the sugar has rendered the charcoal
impure, water is poured through the mass in the cis-
terns, until all the soluble saccharine part of the impu-
rities are removed, after which the charcoal is removed
from the square cisterns, carried to the retort apartment
and put into iron retorts. The process is so conducted
that the charcoal leaves the retorts in a state as fit for
use as when first made ; all the impurities having been
burnt away without any deterioration in the coloring
qualities of the charcoal. Thus the same portions of
charcoal may be used over and over again.

The next place of interest to the stranger, is the a-
partment where the boiling is carried on, which is the
most important of all; and a description of all the in-
ventions and contrivances which have been brought to
bear on this process, would not only be tedious in the
extreme, but would involve scientific details which I

ja^

350

SUGAR REFINERY.

i '

perhaps am not capable of giving. A very large num-
ber of pipes and tubes of various sizes, traverse a suo-ar
refinery in every direction. Some convey water to the
reservoir on the top oi the building ; others reconve^
it to cisterns and pans in different parts of the refinery ;
some conduct steam from boilers to the blow-up cis-
terns, to the pans, to the heaters, to the ovens or sto-
ving-rooms, and to other parts ; while another series
convey the sugar and syrup from vessel to vessel, in
different stages of their progress.

The process of boiling the liquid sugar is briefly this :
The liquid is collected in a cistern several feet below
the pans, which are of a circular form, the top and bot-
tom being oval, somewhat resembling the form of two
bowls or basins of equal size when placed together. —
These pans are supported by a frame or carriage simi-
lar to the carriage of an artificial globe. In the bot-
tom of each pan there is a pipe which communicates
with the cistern below, which contains the syrup or li-
quid sugar. The air is withdrawn from within each
pan by means of an air-pump, the liquid sugar ascends
the pipe into the vacuum by atmospheric pressure from
without, on the same principle as the water ascends in
a common pump. Steam is then admitted to a vacant
space below the sugar in the pan, and through pipes
traversing the interior ; and by these means the sugar
is brought to a boiling state, while comparatively at a
low temperature, on account of the almost perfect vac-
uum existing above the surface of the liquor in the pan.
As the evaporation proceeds, the vapor flows through
a large iron pipp into an oppn court, where a cistern

\m\

SUGAR REFINERY.

351

of cold water condenses it as fast as formed. The su-
gar by this evaporation, thickens and becomes partially
grandulated ; and to ascertain how far this process has
extended, a most ingenious instrument called a proof-
rod, is used, by which a small quantity of suf;?r may be
taken without disturbing; the vacuum in the •;)an. A
hollow tube is fixed in the pan, with the outer end ex-
posed to the atmosphere, but the inner end immersed
in the liquid sugar; this inner end is constructed with
a socket and plug, like the key of an ordinary liquor-
cock, with two apertures through which, when open,
liquor may flow. The proof-rod being introduced into
the tube and tnrned round, unlocks the socket and plug
in the tube, and allows the liquid sugar to flow through
the apertures of the socket and plug, into a recess at
the bottom of the key. The proof-rod being then a-
gain turned, locks up the apertures in the tube, and on
being withdrawn brings with it a small sample of li-
quid sugar.

The attendant boiler then tests the state of the sugar,
to ascertain what degree of tenacity and granulation it
has acquired. If the result is not satisfactory, the boil-
mg is continued for some time longer , but if satisfac-
tory, a valve at the bottom of the pan is opened, and
the sugar flows through a pipe into a room beneath,
where vessels are placed for its reception. The sugar
as it flows through, appears to be much altered, for it
looks now like a mass of crystals enveloped in a dark
colored syrup. The purpose to which the pans are

applied is to drive off in the form of vapor, so much of
the water which has been mixed with the sugar, as to

•m

■i-i *

ii'h f.

35a

SUGAH REFI^ERY.

enable the latter to crystalize. The stranger after wit-
nessing the operations and curious apparatus connected
with boiling, can follow the progress of the sugar to
the lower floor of the building, where he will find a
room containing vessels called heaters, into which the
sugar flows from the pans. In these heaters the sugar
is raised to a temperature of about 180 degrees, being
constantly stirred.

The next part of the refinery worthy ot notice, is
the fill-house. This part ol the concern, as well as all
the other apartments, presented a very singular appear-
ance. A considerable portion of the floor was cover-
ed with iron conical moulds, between eighteen inches
and two ieet high and six inches in diameter, at the
largest part ; each one placed on the apex, or in other
words the pointed end downward, and upheld by those
with which it was surrounded. Hundreds, perhaps
thousands of these moulds were thus ranged in close
rank and file, some were filled with sugar smoking and
hot from the heaters, while others were in the act ot
being filled, and scores and hundreds empty waiting to
be filled. These moulds giv e the well known sugar-loaf
shape to the masses of white sugar bought in our stores
and groceries.

The fill-house presented a busy scene. A number
of men were engaged filling the moulds with liquid su-
gar from the heaters, each man carrying before him a
large copper basin, shaped somewhat like a coalscoop,
and large enough to hold about one hundred weight ol
melted sugar. The men pass and repass with their
scoops filled with hot viscid sugar, running with a quick

CHARLESTON.

353

elastic motion to the moulds. In witnessing this, it
appeared strange that the men were not scalded by the
liability of the sugar being spilled from their shallow
scoops.

These moulds contain sugar and syrup mixed up to^
gether, in a heated and vicid state ; the moulds stand
till the next day to cool, after which they are placed
in earthen jars, where they remain for some time. —
During this period the syrup drops out slowly from the
perforation at the small end of the mould. After the
syrup has drained out and the whole become sufficient-
ly cooled, the mould is thrust against a post with the
end, which loosens the sugar within, after which the
sugar-loaf is placed in an ingenious machine, where
the surface is shaved or sheared off, leaving the body
of the loaf clean and smooth. Thus I leave the sugar
refinery, noticing only a very small portion of what
can be seen in this or any other refining establishment.

iitii,

1; I

M?|

CHAPTER XXX II.

Charleston — Bunker-Hill-Bunker-Hill Monument-Commence-
ment of the Monument — Cost of the ground — Enclosure —
West Front — Windows — Charming prospect-Remark-Light-
ning rods — Cost of the Monument — Navy Yard — Ship Hou-
ses — Frigate Constitution — Dry Dock — Park of Artillery —
Park of Anchors — Singular Gun — Rope walk — Marine and
Naval Hospital — Winter-Hill.

Middlesex county. Charleston, with a population
of 1 1 ,484, is connected with Boston by several bridges
already noticed. The city is handsomely situated on

354.

BUNKER-HILL MONUMENT.

a very beautiful and commanding peninsula, formed by
the rivers Charles and Mystic. The city, though some-
what irregularly built, commands many fine views of
the harbor and the surrounding country. The most
lofty point of this peninsula is Bunker-Hill, where was
fought the bloody battle of the 17th of June, 1775;
and here just fifty years afterwards, on the 17th of June,
1829, the illustrious Lafayette, in the presence of an
immense concourse of spectators, laid the corner-stone
of the Bunker-Hill Monument, which now adorns this
beautiful and memorable height.

This celebratad obelisk is 50 feet square at the base
and rears its towering head to the height of 220 feet ;

it is 15 feet square at the top, with spiral stairs with-
in, by which a person can ascend the whole height
with perfect safety. It is built of Quincy granite, 80
courses high, each course two feet eight inches wide ;
and the whole so handsomely fitted together and ce-
mented, that it is with difficulty that it can be seen
where the blocks are joined, if the eye be thirty or for-
ty paces distant. This is the highest monument of the
kind in the world ; and is said to be not much lower
than some of the Egyptian pyramids.

Lasting as pyrdmids, it here proudly records,
1 he Colonies taken from the British King and Lords ;
Aiid al^o the fall of Warrenj Liberty's friend,
Who Britain will remember till time shall end.
This towering monument was seventeen years in build-
ing, being commenced in 1825, under the administra-
tion of President J. Q. Adams, and completed in 1842,
under the administration of President Tyler. The lot
of ground upon which it stands comprises fifteen acres,

BUNKER-HILL MONUMBNT.

355

wliich sacred ground cost $24,000. It is beautitully
enclosed by an iron fence ; the grounds laid out with
gravelled walk..s, ornamented with the choicest species
of shrubbery. The monument is enclosed with a very
beautiful and substantial iron lence, erected on stone
cappings. This enclosure is about 80 feet square ; the
posts are Quincy granite. On the west front of the
monument is a small but handsome office, where the
clerk or agent is found, from whom admittance is pro-
cured to the door of the monument, with the use of a
telescope, for which the stranger is required to pay a
small fee. This little office is the only building of the
kind within the enclosed fifteen acres of this beautiful
and memorable height.

The west front of the monument contains the door
by which it is entered, and three long narrow windows
to admit light to the stranger as he ascends the spiral
stairs ; and when he has gained the top, he finds four
square windows, one in each face of the obelisk, at a
convenient height for him to look out with perfect safe-
ty. The windows are situated north, east, south and
west. The ascent to these windows is attended with
considerable fatigue, which soon vanishes, apparently,
as the view from the windows is rendered imposing,
grand and picturesque by the magnitude of the eleva-
tion, and thf; extent and variety of the surrounding
scenery. We may take in at a single glance a hun-
dred, perhaps a thousand villas and cottages, with their
stately parks, blooming gardens and pleasure grounds ;
their white walls seen through the embowering foliage,
and glittering in the sunbeams, from every hill-top and

.til

35G

DUNKEU-HILL MONUMENT.

If-
I',*

slope bordering on that renowned and magnificent bay,
whose surface presents the appearance of a great sheet
of bright tin, embosoming a number of distant islands,
beautified with the most luxuriant fleece of vegetation,
presenting to the eye a delightful appearance ; while
the vast expanse of waters surrounding them, by de-
grees become illuminated, reflecting the bright beams
of the god of day with dazzling eflulgence. In addi-
tion to the beauties of the bay, there is presented to
view a perfection of rural scenery, sufficient to gratily
the desires of the most enthusiastic votary of agricul-
ture and a pastoral life.

Here you may look down far beneath your feet on
the brow of Charleston's sacred height, now bespan-
gled with beautiful buildings, which was on the terri-
ble 17th of June, 1775, all enwrapt in flames, with a
dark and awful atmosphere of smoke which enveloped
the memorable heiorht, on which were the strusfglinor
patriots, with their beloved and lamented Warren ly-
ing dead at their feet. Look to the east, at the foot of
the hill, and you behold the spot where the British
soldiers landed, now adorned by a mighty Navy Yard
of the United States, animated by freemen at their dai-
ly avocations. Look to the south, and you behold on
a high eminence, the "cradle of liberty," whose inhab-
itants first resisted by force of arms, the tyranny of
Great Britain over the liberties of the colonies. And
while looking to the east, and viewing with your tele-
scope the wide expanded ocean, bring to your mind,
when seeing the ships far distant, tossed to and fro by
the foaming surges of the briny element, that from there

BUNKEIt-HlLL MONUMENT.

361

came the noble Lafayette, with all his fortune, and rais*
ed his strong arm for freedom, and became the chief
prop and right'-hand man of immortal Washington, in
rearing this mighty empire of liberty, without a paral*
lei in the annals of man.

No wonder the French people gave and claimed lor
LaFayette, the proud title df ("Le Hetos Des Deux
Mondes,") for no sooner than the enemies of liberty
lay prostrate at the feet of freemen in America, than
he returned and struggled heroically for the liberties of
his native land. Where the towering hero moved, a-
mid the chaos of convulsive France, bringing order out
of confusion, and courage of despondency, till the al-
lied tyrants of Europe crushed brave France, and hurl-
ed her beloved Napoleon on the rock of St. Helena, &
tyranny again reigned triumphantly in his unfortunate
and persecuted country.

No sooner than was the noble Hero compelled to bid
adieu to liberty in France, before he is on his way a-
cross the same wide expanded Ocean, for the shores of
America, and rendered this memorable Hill hallowed
by his footsteps, when laying the corner stone of this
noble monument of Liberty, now the admiration of the
world, from whose towering pinnacle we may gaze
down dn its footstool, once the scene of that martial
strife, whose thunders rocked as it were every monar-
chial throne in Christendom, and was the herald which
proclaimed the dawn of the liberties of the world.

At each corner of this obelisk there is a lightning
rod, constructed of small wire platted together, so as to
form a rod about an incli in diameter. It is construct-

■:».

356

NAVy-YAKi).

ed of wire, so as to give the rod more surface, which
renders the structure more secure, as it is well known
that electricity passes only on the surface of its con-
ductor. These rods are very ingeniously constructed
at the top of the monument, being so united as to di-
vide the heaviest bolt, and conduct it to the ground to
a sufficient distance from the foundation of the monu-
ment, so as to leave the structure entirely secure from
harm. There are four metalic needles or shafts, points
ing toward the four cardinal points, north, south, east
and west ; one from the centre of each window at the
top of the monument, each of which shafts extend a
corisiderable distance beyond the walls, which long
shafts, with the rods already noticed, fofms one of the
most complete lightning apparatuses to be found in out
country, which will not fail to attract and conduct to
the ground, with perfect safety, the heaviest bolt of
lightning which may threaten the destruction of this
towering obelisk, erected at a cost of $100,000, proud-
ly to commemorate the spot on which took place the
first important conflict, which afterwards laid the Brit-
ish lion prostrate at the feet of freemen.

The United States Navy-Yard contains about 60 a-
cres of ground, enclosed on two sides by a stone wall,
about 8 feet high, with only one gateway by which it
can be entered, on the Charleston or land side. This
Navy- Yard occupies the ground on which the British
landed, when ordered from Boston by General Gage to
drive the Americans from Bunker-Hill. This celebra-
ted Navy-Yard cannot fail to please the stranger and
richly repay a visit.

N A V V - Y A R P .

359

The large and lofty ship houses, under which stand
some of the largest ships of the American navy, some
oi which are the most stupendous specimens of naval
architecture to be found, perhaps in any Navy- Yard
on the i'ace of the globe. There are here hundreds of
workmen employed in building and repairing ships,
who cause the grounds to resound with the noise of
their axes, hammers and saws, which is intermingled
with the whistle and song oi the jolly workman.

Among the many ships of the United States, which
were undergoing repair in this yard, was the famous
frigate Constitution, commanded by Capt. Isaac Hull,
who after a desperate conflict captured the British fri-
gate Guerriere, commanded by Capt. Dacres, which
commenced that series of naval achievements for which
the late war with Great Britain was so distinguished.

The Dry Dock, constructed of hewn granite, is 341
feet long, 80 feet wide and 30 leet deep, with its steam
pumps attached, by means of which the water is pump-
ed out of the dock, after a ship has been floated in, and
the gates closed in its rear, where a ship of the largest
class can be repaired. This large and handsome dock
is truly a very splendid, smooth and strong piece of
masonry ; and according to the inscription on one of
the blocks of granite of which it is constructed, it was
commenced under the administration of President J.
Q. Adams, and completed under, the administration of
President Jackson, at a cost of $670,089,

The Park of Artillery is situated near the centre of
the grounds, about half way between the barracks and
shiphouses. It is enclosed by a handciome fence, abcut

I 1

1 ^ii <

360

NAVY -YARD.

three leet high, and adorned with beautilul trees. Thn
park contains the artillery, all arranged in rows as near
each other as they can be placed ; and between the rows
there are beautiful gravelled walks. There were near
seven hundred guns, varying in size from a six-pound-
up to the heaviest guns in the American navy. At
one end of the park were a number of large heaps of
balls of various sizes. At the northeastern end of this
park, and between it and the water, there is a park en-
closed in the same way and nearly as large, which con-
tains the ship anchors. Here were a number of men
engaged in removing the anchors, and mowing the
grass and removing it, which had sprang up in the Park,
after which the anchor was again replaced, and a fresh
coat of paint given to preserve it from rust.

The next object to attract the attention of the stran-
ger, was a very large, singular and well polished brass
gun, mounted on a strange constructed carriage, "which
was placed about half way between the Dry Dock and
the Park of Artillery. This singular cannon contain-
ed a number of emblems and devices, as well as inscrip-
tions, which, together with its high polish, caused it to
be an object well worthy of inspection. Whether this
singular gun was a present bestowed by some foreign
nation, or a trophy taken by the Americaijs in 1804,
fit Tripoli, or taken during the war with Mexico, I was
unable to learn.

There is here a Rope Walk, said to be the longest
in the United States, which is of itself interesting. —
There are also here a number of naval store-houses, ar-
senals, magazines, barracks, and slips, together with

common a!

W 1 N T E R - 11 1 L L .

3G1

many other objects entertaining and instructive ; added
to which there is a beautiful band of music, who enli-
ven the whole ground by their thrilling strains oi na-
tional airs.

The Marine and Naval Hospitals, belonging to the
United States, are large granite buildings, situated in
the back ground of the ?\avy-Yard, in that part of the
town called Chelsea. The marine deparin.ent is for
Ihe reception of seamen of the mercantile navy •, and
the naval hospital is for the reception of si-amtMi and
others belongin^f to the Dnited States Navy.

Winter-Hill. — This celebrated eminence is now oc-
cupied by the village of Somerville. This is the hil'i
which received the retreating patriots from lUmker-
Hill, from which they were driven by the British, af-
ter that desperate conflict of the 17th of June, 1775,
which left Bunker-Hill in possession of the British,
who however, could not exult over their prize, as it
was purchased at so dear a rate, while VV inter-Hill
proudly protected the sad patriots, who were compel-
led to weep over the fall of Warren, for a strong and
mighty ally, and a noble man had been lost to the greut
and irlorious cause of freedom. A cocjtlitT sacrifice a
common altar never received.

^■U

m-z

JfAltVARD t'NIVKKjilTf

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Cauib d ye — Harvard Unrversitj — ProfessorB — Examination of
tje StadentB — Education in MaasftchuBetts — Bequests and Do-
nations — Popular Libraries — Heavy sale of books — Education
Law — Popularity of Professors and Tutors — Bible — Lexington
—•Monoment— Towns — Lowel) — Manufactures — Number of
Mills— Capital invested — N" umber of Operati<'es — Number of
Scbooh-~-Banki ng institutions — Mr. John Lo#^ell— Merrimack
Valley -—Towns.

Cambridge, with a population of 8,409 is connected
"vvith Boston by a wooden bridge afnd the famous caus-
way, already noticed. The town is 'V^ell laid out and
contains a number of fine building's, both public and
private ; the whole town is in a very flourishing con-
dition, and possesses many attractions not to be found
in any other perhaps.

Harvard University is located in this town. This cel-
ebrated College is the oldest and best endowed in the
country, having been founded as early as 1638, oronl}'
about 18 vears after the landino- of the Pilgrims on the
rock ol Plymouth. The buildings for this famous in-
stitution are large, well built, and beautifully situated
on grounds handsomely laid out for the purpose.

The College contains about 400 students and 32 pro-
fessors, each assisted by one or more tutors. Many ol
them are well known in the literary world as authors.
Five only of the thirty-two were educated for the pul-
pit, three of whom are prolessors of divinity, one of e-
thics, and one of history. All the students are requi-
red to attend divine service ii;i the churches to which
they teverally belong: but tk^ divinity-school for pro-

f: D L d' A 1 t O N

363

iVsslonal education is Unitarian. The pupils are ex-
amined in the New Testament, in Paley's Evidences,
and Butler's Analog3\ The tutors selected by the pro-*
lessors of this College, may in some degree, be compa-
red to our private tutors, except that they are more un-
der the direction of the professors, being selected by
them from among the graduates, as the best scholars,
and each is specially devoted to some one department
of learning. These tutors, from whose number the pro-
fessors are commonly chosen^ usually teach the first
year students, or prepare pupils' for the professors lec-
tures. Care is also bestowed on fhi- classification of
the young men according to their acquirements, talents-
and tacit ee. To accomplish this object, the student on>
entering the College may offer to undergo an examina-
tion, and if he succeeds, he may pass at once into the
second, third or fourth year's class 3 the intermediate
steps being dispensed with. He may also choose cer-
tain subjects of study, which are regarded as equiva-
lents, or are exchangeable with others. Thus in the
four years of the regular academical course, a compe-
tent Icnowledge of Latin, Greek and of various branch-
es of mathematics is exacted from all ; but in regard to
other subjects, such as moral philosophy, modern lan-
guages, chemifitry, mineralogy and geology, some of
them may be substituted for others, at the option of the
pupil. There are public examinations at the end of
every term, for awarding honors, or ascertaining the
proficiency of students ; who, if they have been negli-
gent, or put back into a previous year's class, the peri-
od of taking thrir decree in thai casr, is deferred. — .

#ii!fi

''■■
\

111

'•> :;t \W'-\ v:\

36 4^

EDUCATION.

Honors at this Collcgo are obtainable for almost even
subject taught by any professor; but emulation is not
relied upon as the chief inducement for study. Afttr
passing an examination for the fourth year's class, the
student can obtain the degree of Bachelor of Arts, and
may enter the divinity, medical, or law schools.

The stranger in travelling through the famous old
State of Massachusetts, and visiting her celebrated Col-
leges, and seeing the State spotted vith school-houses,
is compelled to come to the conclusion that there is no
other region inhabited by the Anglo-Saxon race, con-
taining 750,000 souls, where national education has
been carried so far. What are the chief causes of its
success, I am unable to say. It doubtless is to be at-
tributed to a combination of causes. The followino- has
aided to a considerable extent no doubt, in raising and
carrying forward this important cause : First, there is
no class in want or extreme poverty here, partly be-
cause the facility of migration to the western States, for
those who are without employment is so great, and in
part from the check to improvident marriages, created
by the hio-h standard of living, to which the lowest
work people aspire ; a standard which education is rai-
sing hi(>-;u r and higher from da}^ to day. Secondly, it
is generally declared by politicians of opposite parties,
that there is no safety for the Republic, now that the
electoral suffrage has been so much extended, unless ei-
ery exertion is made to raise the moral and intellectu-
al condition of the masses, as universal sufTrajre has a
tendency to point out the dangers of ignorance. Third-
ly, the political anti social equality of all religious sects.

K I) T ■ C A T 1 O K .

305

This equality tends to remove the greatest stumbling-
block still standing in the wav ol national instruction,
in some parts oi' Europe, and unhappily in some of the
States, where we allow one generation after another of
the lower classes, to grow up without being taught as
they should be, good morals, good behavior, and the
knowledge of things useful and ornamental, partly be-
cause we cannot all agree as to the precise theological
doctrines in which they are to be brought up. In the
ijurth place we observe, that there is no subject in
which the people of Massachusetts display more ear-
nestness, than in their desire to improve their system
of education, both elementary and academical. They
have sent missionaries to Europe, who examined the
celebrated systems of Germany, Holland, Britain and
France, and published elaborate reports on the m.ethods
of teaching employed by those learned nations; and
seem ready to adopt whatever appears worthy of imi-
tation in these different models.

Again, the munificent bequests and donations for pub-
lic purposes, whether charitable or educational, forma
striking ieature in the modern history of the New Eng-
land States, and especial the State ot Massachusetts. —
Not only is it commoti for rich capitalists to leave by
will, a portion of their fortune towardsthc endowment
of national institutions ; but individuals duringi; their
lifetime, make magnificent grants of money for the same
objects. There is here no compulsory law for the e-
qual partition of property among children, as in France;
and on the other hand, no custom of entail or primo-
geniture, as in England ; so that the aflluent feel ihem-

3G(i

poriiLAii ijnnARiK>.

selvos at liberty to share their wealth between tlu*ir
kindred and the public. Here, with all their donations,
-parents have the pleasure and happiness of seeing all
their children well provided for and independent lon^
before their death. I here seen a list of bequests and
donations made during the last twenty years, for the
benefit of religious, charitable and literary institution?,
in the State of Massachusetts alone : and they amount-
ed to no less a sum than $6,000,000. These donations
consisted of from $100 up to $20,000 for a single indi-
\idual, and in several instances it exceeded that sum.

The traveller will find jjopular libraries in almost
every village of Massachusetts ; and observe a growing
taste for the reading of good books, which is attested
by the heavy sale of large editions of such works a^
Herschel's Natural Philosophy, Washington Irvlng's
Columbus, Plutarch's Lives, Johnes' Transhition ci'
Froissart's Chronicles, Leibig's Animal Chemistry, Corn-
stock's Philosophy, Sear's Works, Prescott's Mexico,
and hundreds of other works, read by all classes. The
traveller can also distinctly perceive, that not only
those works that have a practical tendency, awake at-
tention and command respect: but the purely scientific,
which possess far greater merit, arc also prized very
highly by the same book-loving people.

The law of this State ordains, that everv district con-
taining fift}' families shall maintain one school : for the
support of which the inhabitants are required to tax
themselves, and to appoint committees annually for
manaorin^ the funds and choosinji; their own schoolmas-
ter.^. The Bo&lonians submit to pay annually for pub-

R r* i: C A T T o N ,

;}<w

their
f<ions,

^^ all

s and
r the
tionjj,
oiint-
ations
indi-
um.
1 1 most

lie instruction, in their city alone, the sum of $120,-
000, which is all cheerfully paid ; and to keep their
glorious system of education in a flourishing condition,
they would submit to pay double that sum without a
murmur. In the schools the Bible is allowed to
be read in all, and is actually read in nearly all the
schools ; but the law prohibits the use of books calcula-
ted to favor the tenents of any particular sect of Chris-
tians, In this case, parents and guardians are expect^
ed to teach their own children, or procure them to be
taught, what they believe to be religious truth ; and for
this purpose, besides family worship and the pulpit,
there are Sunday Schools. This is a sysfem which
works well among this church-building and church-
going populatioa.

The law prohibiting the use of books calculaie»i to
favor the tenents of a particular sect of Christians, in
Colleges and schools, in my judgment has an excellent
tendency, because at College, the pupils are brought
together on neutral and usually on friendly ground,
where kindly feelings and sympathies will generally
spring up spontaneously, and will be cherished in after
life by congenial souls, however distant the station, dis-
tinct the religious opinions or professional employments-
While on the other hand, where sectarianism reigns
triumphantly, it is generally found to disunite thes<>
and other sections of the same community, and throws
them into antagonist massey ; each keeping aloof from
the other, in cold and jealous seclusion ; each cherish^
ing sectarian or party animositicB; or professional and
Moehl projudicps. jiow often is it that complaints ar^

k- I

1\,

3t>8

E D t; C A T I O N .

hoarJ, ;ind nol without reason, of the harsii outlint-?
that ofleii separate thr difForent denominations and
grades of society in our country? Much of this origi-
nates and is fostered in the season of youth ; and when
men are engaged in the common pursuits of knowledge,
especially if allowed as far as possible to follow the
bent of their own tastes and genius. There is no doubt
by this excellent system, friendships might be and are
formed, tending to soften these hard outlines. 1 fan-
cied the reli<i;ious toleration of the different sects to-
wan'- each other in the State of Massachusetts, is ac-
companied with more Christian charity than is gener-
ly found in many other sections of the Union, much of
which I attributed to their excellent systems of Colle-
ges and Schools. In this famous Commonwealth, fam-
ilies are not found divided, and the best relations of pri-
vate life disturbed by the bitterness of sectarian dogma-
tism and jealousy, which unhappily is too much the
case in many of the other States ; and even the renown-
ed old Dominion is not exempt from the evil. But
with these church-building and church-going popula-
tion, a great degree of religious freedom is enjoyed, as
there is no sect to w^hich it is ungenteel to belong, no
consciences sorely tempted by ambition, to conform to
a more fashionable creed.

It is worthy of remark, that every professor and tu-
tor of these colleges and schools commands the utmost
respect of his pupils, which, among other things goes
to show that he is not ill qualified for his post. No one
who is master of his favorite science, will fail to in-
spire the minds of his more intellectual scholars with a

love o
for the
tracti(
theBi
into tl:
thoug
congre
to the
vert it
Mic
1642,
place
olutior
pril,
ed by
and se
torious
them i
perse,
diatel}!
ordere
and di
ment ^
Then
the na
fall of
brethi
innoc
On
Centr
Bosto

L i: x 1 N c r (.. y.

:jv;i*

love of what he teaches, and a regard and admiration
for their instructor. Among the many objects oi" at-
traction in Harvard College, may be seen a copy of
the Bible, translated by the missionary Father Elliott,
into the Indian tongue. It is now a dead laiifjcuaoi-e, al-
though preached ior several generations, to crowded
congregations of the aboriginal tribes, which language,
to the unaccustomed car, sounds sino;ular enougii todi-
vert its possessor.

Middlesex county, Lexington, with a population of
1642, is celebrated as being the spot on which took
place the first action that opened the war of the Rev-
olution. It was here on the morning of the 1 9th of A-
pril, 1775, that seventy militia on parade, were attack-
ed by Major Pitcairn, and eight of their number killed
and several wounded, without provocation. The no-
torious Pitcairn, on seeing them on parade, rode up to
them and with a loud voice cried out, "disperse, dis-
perse, you rebels." The sturdy yeomanry not imme-
diately obeying his orders, he discharged his pistol, and
ordered a part of eight hundred of his grenadiers to fire
and disjoerse them. On the battle-ground is a monu-
ment erected to the memory of the eight men killed.
The monument contains suitable inscriptions, honoring
the names of the patriots, whos? blood sealed the down-
fall of the British tyranny over the colonies; as their
brethren vowed upon the crirasoned field to avenge their
innocent blood.

On our way to Lowell, we passed through Woburn
Centre, containing a population of 2993, sitated on the
Boston and Lowell railroad, 10 miles from Boston. The

agf":: -

'.no

1. (1 ^v i: I. I.

town of VVoliiira is ii well built, haii(l:ionie and flour-
i.shin<5 little \)]\\?a\ Ijotwi-en it and Lowell are VVill-
mington, Tewksbury and Bcllcrica Mills, each with a
population of from t\\ elve lo fifteen hundred, situated
in the Merrimack valley, all villages of considerable
attraction.

Lowell, with a population of 29,127, is situated at the
junction of the (.'oncord and Merrimack Rivers. The
rapidity of its growth is almost without a parallel. In
1813 a cotton factory was established here ; intheyear
1815 it contained a few scattered dv/ellinjrs ; in 1820
it contained about 200 inhabitants; and now it is the
most extensive manufacturing town, not only in Mas-
sachusetts, but in North America.

Water-power is supplied by a large and powerful
canal, which is fed by the Merrimack river. The cap-
ital invested in manufactures in this place, is no less
than the sum of $11,400,000. The Merrimack com-
pany alone has a capital of $2,000,000. There are here
45 mills, containing no less than 253,456 spindles and
7,756 looms, which consume annually the enormous
sum of 62,400 bales of cotton. There are employed no
less than 7,915 females in these factories, who are
chielly young women from the age of IS to 25, who
attend to the spinning-jennies and looms. They are
generally handsome, neatly dressed, chiefly the daugh-
ters of New England farmers, sometimes of the poorer
clergy. These poor girls have stated hours of work,
(12 hours a day ;.) each girl attending two spinning-jen-
nies, or four looms, which by the by, is a heavy task.
Their moral character stands very high ; and a girl is

L o \v r; L I. .

371

paid off if the least doubt exists on that point. Many
of the boarding-houses are kept by widows, some of
which are co'.venient to the factories, while others ai'«
at a considerable distance off. In these boarding-hou-
ses the operatives are required to board, the men and
women being separate.

There are also in the same employ, 3340 men, who
are generally employed in bearing burdens, war]f^ing,
and performing sundry ollices too burdensome ior the
females. There are few children employed in these
factories, and those under fifteen years of age, are com-
pelled by law, to go to school three months in the year,
under penalty of a heavy fine. If this regulation is in-
fringed, informers are not wanting ; for there is a strong
sympathy in the public mind, with all acts of the leg-
islature enforcing education.

The factories at this place are not only on a large
scale, but are so managed as to yield heavy profits, as
they are situated, arranged and conducted in every
point of view, with the highest regard to profit, bciiig
situated within 26 miles of the city of Boston, with
which it is connected by an excellent railroad. There
is here a high school, the building of which cost the
sum of $28,000. There are also in the town 8 gram-
mar schools, and 29 nublic schools ; all of which are
in the most flourishing condition. The Lowell Bank,
at this place, chartered in 1828, has a capital of $250,-
000. The Railroad Bank, chartered in 1831, has a
capital of $800,000.

These celebrated mills are remarkably clean and well
warmed for establishments so extensive. Most all are

> '^i

372

r. (> n* r. i, :,

employed in itiaking cotton and woollen goods, vast
quantities of which are exported to the v\est. The
Literary Institute, or public school abov noticed, is
said to be the donation of Mr. John Loweli, whoniade
some heavy donations for literary establishments in his
native State, and who on a visit to Europe, drew up
hi| last will and testament amid the ruins of Thebes, in
the year 1)335, leaving half his remaining fortune for
this institution^ and then pursued his travels in the hope
of exploring India and China. On his way, he passed
through Egypt, where being attacked while engaged
in making a collection of antiquities, by an intermit-
tent fever, of which he soon died.

In passing up the Merrimack valley, we had on our
route the towns of Middlesex, Chelmsford, celebrated
for its excellent granite, and Tynsboro, each contain-
ing between fifteen and eighteen hundred inhabitants,
and all of which are situated on the Lowell and Man-
chester railroad. A considerable portion of the land up
this valley, is of an inferior quality, especially near the
river ; it is however, so Highly and skilfully cultivated
that the crops presented quite a promising appearance.
In continuing bur course up the valley, we again en-
tered the State of New Hampshire.

\ A 5 11 I A .

37. S

C H A P T B U XXXI V .

STATE or NEW HAMPSHIRE.

Nashua — Manufactures — Towns — Manchester — Streets— Build-
ings — Falls of Amoskeag — Manufactures — Sad Accident — La-
bor of the Operatives compared with slave labor of the South
— Abolitionists of New England — Emancipation of Slavery —
Villajgres — Concord — Uridines — Slate House — State Prison—
Merrimack Falls — Railroads — Return to Boston.

Hillsborough count]/. The first object of attraction
on entering the State from the South, is the town of
Nashua, containing a population of 6050. This town
is very beautifully situated near the southern line of
the State. There are here several very large cotton
mills, which are propelled by the waters of the Mer-
rimack river. These mills are conducted on the plan
of those at Lowell, and manufacture a great deal of do-
mestic goods. Still farther up the Merrimack river
are situated a number of flourishing little villages, a-
mong which are Thornton's Ferry, Reed's Ferry and
GofF's Ferry. The latter is a considerable village, con-
taining 2376 inhabitants. There are also here some
factories of various kinds. The lands in the vicinity
of these villages, has no appearance of being of a high
quality.

Manchester is another celebrated manufacturing town
with a population of 3235, This place is beautifully
situated, about half a mile below Amoskeag falls, on the
Merrimack river, 58 miles north of Boston and 32 miles
up the river from Lowell, The town of Manchester is
located in a somewhat rugged region of country, the
town however is situated on a handsome, high and com-

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M A N C II K S T E R ,

manding site. It is regularly laid out, contains som.?
handsome streets, ornamented with shade trees of a rarti
and choice species ; the buildincrs are large and beauti-
ful, among which are several fine public buildings.

In the centre of the town there is a public square, en-
closed by a fine railing, and beautifully laid out with
walks, adorned with a number oi flourishing shad.-
trees and flowering shrubbery. To the north of the
town, toward the foot of a gentle slope, are situated the
factories for which Manchester is so much celebrated.

The falls of Amoskeag affords an immense water
power, which is employed in propelling a number of
very large nianufacturing establishments, some of the
buildings of which are from six to six hundred and fif-
ty feet long and two stories high, while others there-
with connected, are about two hundred feet square and
from five to six stories high, the whole of which are
constructed of brick.

Manchester is classed the second manufacturing town
HI the United States. The males and females employ-
ed as operatives, more than double exceed the whole
regular population of the town. Jhe two most exten-
sive companies at this place are the Stark and Amos-
keag. The water is conveyed from the falls by an e-
normous canal, which supplies the propelling power
to the diflTerent factories. Between the cotton mills
and the rivev there are a number ot saw mills and oth-
er factories, among which are some for sawing, dressing
and polishing marble and granite.

On the morning before my arrival, a sad accident oc-
curred at the de|.ot. A little girl eleven years old, the

M A .\ c II i; b T i: II .

.-57:)

only child of an operative in ono of the factories, in
attempting to cross the railroad track for the purpose
of telling her father to come to his meal, as was her
custom, was run over by the engine and instantly kil-
led. This accident was not attributed to aiiy neglect
of the engineer or firemen, for the unfortunat;/ little
girl was just turning the corner of the depot-house as
the cars entered, and of course could not be seen by
them ; and on stopping were horror-struck on finding
her lying beside the track, with her head entirely mash-
ed by two of the engine wheels. No sooner vyas this
sad accident related, than T heard another, of a vouns
man, his widowed mother's only dependance for sup-
port, with his two small children, of his losing an arm
and leg from the same cause, by his own neglect.

By the time I arrived at this great manufacturing
town, through some of the northern and eastern States,
I had heard a great deal of complaint from the aboli-
tion party, against slave labor and the slave treatment
of the South ; and what made it appear more remarka-
ble to me, was, that many of those complaints were
heavily urged by men who have sons or daughters em-
ployed as operatives in those factories. In many of the
factories, and more especially at the celebrated manu-
facturing town of Lowell, as well as this place, I had
opportunities of seeing the condition of the poor facto-
ry girl ; which two places alone employ nearly 15,-
000 women and 6,000 men, which I considered a suf-
ficient number to give a fair sample of the condition of
the operatives in manufacturing establishments. There-
fote, I was not a little surprised to find those inteUi"

r^i'

37G

LUNDITIO.N ()!• I in; (JrKJJAriVI'S.

gent men the more eager to throw stones, though liv->
ing themselves in glass houses. — For so tar as I am ca-
pable of judging, there is no slave labor of the South
or of Virginia at least, except it be like labor, that J
consider so hard a task, by a very considerable per cent,
as the task of the poor factory girl; lor all the factories
which I visited in the spinning and weaving depart-
ments, one girl would be attending two spinning-jen-
nies, or four looms, which would keep them very busy
indeed. The various other employments in the facto-
ries I consider very little if any better ; the whole be-
ing certainly very injurious to health ; the confinement
in the building lor twelve long hours a day, where
there is no tree circulation of iresh air, the whole buil-
ding being fogged over with particles of cotton and
dust, and the air perfumed with oil, in which the ope-
ratives are required to work for twelve long hours a
day, and allowed but half an hour at dinner. At hall
past twelve o'clock, the bells ring, at which they cease
their operations and in a few minutes after, they are
seen walking^ and running bv hundreds and even thou-
sands to their respective boarding-houses, some of which
are from three to four hundred yards distant. At one
o'clock the bells again ring to summon them to their
posts ; and almost instantly the streets will be seen
crowded by them, some of whom, owing to the dis-
tance they have to go, have not time to finish their
meals at the table, and return to their work with a piece
in their hand, eating as they go.

What portion of the year the operatives are requi-
red to labor twrlve hours a dftv I am unabj^* to nav : but

f 1

CONDITION* OF Tlin OPKUATIVKS.

377

-nirii

nIiouUI the many thousands employed in the manufac-
turing^ establislinients of the New England States, be
ground down for any con^jiderable portion of the 3'ear,
hy the same ru'-sand regulations which prevail at the
two principal manufacturing towns, which is to labor
hard for twelve hours a day, and breathe the impure air
of the factory, with only half an hour intermission for
dinner, with the confinement, will certainly be the cause
of withering down many a lovely woman to an early
grave. I did not note these particulars as a dispara-
ojingi; remark to the manuficturinor establishments, for
such establishments are necessary and should receive
due encouragement : but I simply noted their severe
rules and regulation.^, because I considered them capa-
ble of more than covering the rules and regulations
concerning slave labor and slave treatment of the South.
I olten asked myself, when in the midst of these ab-
olition States, how it could be possible for an intelli-
gent and an honest niass of people, to be so deluded by
a few unprincipled fanatics, who by an array of noto-
rious exaggerations and falsehoods, succeed in enlisting
the sympathies of the masses to a considerable extent in
their cause, so that the Southern stranger hears many
a heart-rendiniT storv, concerning slave treatment and
slave labour of the South : and not un frequently meets
with a pamphlet containincr the basest exaggerations
relating to the same, which with their speeches, goes
to show that at least some persons are perfectly mad
upon the subject of slavery, and are ready to lay trains
which have not only a tendency to disorganise and dis-
unite, but if fully matured would shake the very Union

i»i!i.

.178

ABOLITION JsTS or NCW ENGLAND.

to its centre. I was delighted, however, to find tho
mass of the people honest in their abolition opinions,
acknowledging they have no right to meddle with the
institutions c^ "iher States, disclaiming all power there-
with connected, save that of expressing their opinions,
which they always done in a very respectful manner ;
therefore a conversation with this portion of the popu-
lation on the question of abolition of slavery, is by no
means so disagreeable a subject as it is when assaulted
by some one of their more ultra brethren.

The abolitionists of the New England States may with
same propriety be divided into three classes : the mod-
erate, the ultra, and the fanatic. To the first of these
classes I am happy to find belong a majority of the pop-
ulation. It is not unusual to hear the ultra abolition-
ist heavily denouncing the slave institution of the South,
and among his complaints, he raises a great cry against
the Federal basis, which he contends gives to the South
more representation in the Federal Government than
she is entitled to, according to the white population ;
this however, is only a part ol his objections, we there-
fore find him more ready to intermeddle with southern
institutions, by his eagerness to inflict upon the South,
such measures as he thinks will have a tendency to ia-
vor his ends, than we find in his more moderate breth*
ren. The Wilmot Proviso is one of his favorite meas-
ures, as an auxiliary in stifling the South.

It is not a little singular, yet bordering on disgust,
to hear this class of men eulogising the capacities of the
negro for advancement in society. The schools forth^
colored population at Boston are fre(|uently alluded tu

EMANCIPATION *>F SI.AVKRV.

3:0

in showing that black children show as much quick-
ness in learning as the whites. To what extent the
faculties of the negro might be developed as adults, we
have as yet no means of judging : but so far as my read-
ing extends, I never have learned a single instance,
where an educated black has ever yet, with all his op-
portunities of ripening or displaying superior talents,
in this or any other civilized country ; that he ever
reached in literature, the learned professions, or any
political eminence. Therefore it is quite a strange phi-
losophy to me, that the blacks of Massachusetts and 0-
ther New England States should rival the whites in
learning. The emancipation of slavery in the West
Indies, appears to furnish a rich repast for the minds
of those philanthropists, as they point frequently to
that event, and the moral and intellectual condition of
the blacks of those Islands, when making their assaults
upon the institutions of the South. This however is a
very lame argument, because the great experiment now
making in the West Indies, affords no parallel case, as
the climate there is far more sultry, relaxing and try-
ing to Europeans, than the Southern States of the U-
nion, and it is well known to all, that the West Indian
proprietors have no choice, the whites being so few in
number, that the services of the colored race are indis-
pensable. And again, England had a right to interfere
and legislate for her own colonics, whereas the north-
ern States of the Union and foreigners have no right
to intermeddle with the domestic concerns of the slave
States. Such intervention must have a tendencv to ex-
cite the fears and indignation of the Southern planter,

CI^^ii^^**''''*^'^

380

LMANCiri^TlUN or SLANliRV.

and thereby retard, and must be expected to retard the
progress of the cause. A deep sense of injustice and a
feeling of indignation will of course disincline him to
persevere in advocating the cause of emancipation. —
It is also known to every intelligent man, how long
and obstinate a struggle the West Indian proprietors
had made against the emancipationists in the British
House of Commons. It is farther evident, that had the
different islands been directly represented in the Low-
er House of Parliament, and there been Dukes of Ja-
maica, Marquises of Antigua, and Earls of Barbadoes
in the Upper House, as the slave States are represent-
ed in Congress, the measure would never have been
carried to this day.

During my stay among those visionary philanthro-
pists, I felt astonished at the confidence displayed by
so many of these anti-slavery speakers and writers, not
only in New Hampshire but some of the other New
England States, and New York not excepted. The
course pursued by these agitators show that next to the
positively wicked, alias the fanatic, their impractica-
ble schemes produce the most mischievous effects in so-
ciety, as it is known to every man of common recol-
lection, that before the year 1830, a considerable num-
ber of the planters of the slave States were in the hab-
it of regarding slavery as a moral and pi:)litical evil,
and many of them openly proclaimed it to be so in the
Virginia debates of 1831-2. At that period the eman-
cipation party was gradually gaining ground, and not
unreasonable hopes were entertained that the States of
Kentuckv, Virp-inia and Maryland would soon fix on

! : ' ' ;•?

r.MANcirAfio.N or f^LAvrnv.

381

some future day for the manumission of their slaves. —
From the moment the abolition movement began, and
that missionaries were sent to the Southern States, a
re-action was perceived, because the pljfnters took the
alarm, laws were passed against education, the condi-
tion of the slave made worse, all caused by the inter-
meddling of these visionary characters.

In some ol the New England States, the free blacks
have votes and exert their privileges at elections; yet
there is not an instance of a single man of color, al-
thousjh elijrible bv law, having; been chosen a member
of the State Legislature, or any other oflTice of rank or
profit. It is here contended, that wherever property
confers the ricjht of votinj]^, the man of color can at
once be admitted without danger, t ) an absolute equal-
ity of political rights; the more industrious alone be-
coming invested with privileges, which are withheld
from the indigent and most worthless of the race. It
is further held, that such a recognition of rights, not
only raises the negroes in their opinion of themselves,
but what is of far more consequence, accu 'r ms a por-
tion of the white population to respect them.

After being frequently lectured by these persons on
the subject of emancipation, which was not a little an-
noying to me, in their attempts to convince me of the
high capacities and claims of the negro, to an equal
standing in the scale of society, several opportunities
presented themselves, whereb}^ I could test the consis-
tency of these visionary philanthropists, who would
have us take the negro by the hand, and lead him through
this vale of adversity, love him as wc would ourselves,

/":hM\

i|l

'i ''9(^H

':»'KfH

* u

382

eaUncipation of slavery.

and do unto him as we would wish other men to do un-
to us. One of these opportunities was presented in a
Christian church, where the members were commemo-
rating the de^h and sufferings of Christ, by surround-
ing the Lord's table. The officiating minister, by ac-
cident omitted four or five of the white members, which
caused the order and sanctity of the service for a few
moments to be in imminent danger of beingtlisturbed.
After some confusion however, the officiating minister
proceeded, by showing his resolution not to allow any
interruption from this accident, and thus stayed the
confusion which was arising.

This furnished me with a new proof that consisten-
cy is a jewel, find it where you will ; and that these
dreaming philanthropists, who speak in such glowing
terms of the negro, are at the same time separated from
him by a chasm as wide as that which now separates
the Southern planter from the slave, and that he is here
as everywhere else, looked upon as belonging to a class
a little lower than the lowest. It takes no extraordi-
nary stretch of the mind to discover that these philan-
thropists are conscious of the lazy, filthy, vicious and
dishonest creatures they inpvitably become, where they
are not held in bondage.

The hitelligence the people of New England are
known to possess, makes the doctrine of emancipation
the more remarkable, because Canada and Ireland teach
us how much time, and how many generations are re-
quired for the blending together, on terms of perfect
equality, both social and political, of two nations, the
conquerors and the conquered ; even where both are of

KMAXCITATION of 5f,AVrTvY.

383

the same race and decidedly equal in ther natural ca-
pacities, though differing only in religion, manners and
language. But when we have in the same communi-
ty, two races so distinct in their physical peculiarities,
as to cause n^jiny naturalists who have not the least de-
sire whatever to disparage the negro, to doubt wheth-
er both are of the same species and started originally
from the same stock. In part, because bondage and
barbarism seems to be their destiny, the only element
ever known in which they progressed ; a destiny from
which the Ethiopian race has furnished no exception in
any country, for a period long enough to constitute an
epoch, as it is almost evident that the only idea the ne-
gro has of liberty, is exemption from labor, and the
privilege to be idle, vicious and dishonest ; as to the
mere sentiments of liberty and the elevated conscious-
ness df equality, they are certainly incapable of the
formet and for the latter, no such equality ever did ex-
ist, and in my opinion never will exist ; because there
is a line which cannot be passed by any degree of tal-
ent, virtue, or accomplishment, by them. In Africa,
they have been found in an unprogressing state, have
been degraded by those who first colonized North A-
merica, to the lowest place in the social scale. To ex-
pect under such a combination of depressing circum-
stances, in a country where nearly seven-eighths ofthe
race are still held in bondage, the newly emancipated
citizen should under an}' form of government, attain at
once a position of real equality is a dream of these vis-
ionary philanthropists, whose impracticable shemesare
ten-fold more likely lo injiu:e4han to forward ih? caucc.

IL H

-'II

381

r A N A T 1 C » .

The most deluded of these persons are the faiialir,
who happily for our country, are few innunib'T whi n
compared to their more nioderato brethren ; thoufrh
what they lack in numbers, they make up in part by
their untiring energy in :-peaking, writing and laying
deep and dangerous schemes: and so perfectly mad is
he on the subject of slavery, tbut it is found his whole
soul is so filled with burning gaul, that he is ever seek-
ing; an opj)ortunity to spit his venom on the South, for
the purpose of withering down iier institutions, even
at the very hazard of shivering into fragment.-?, our glo-
rious Union, whose lovely i)(ttnier is the admiration (,(
the world. But enough on this subject ; as it is not
my province to attempt a defence of the institutions ot
the South, when there are so many others who are am-
ply qualified to do justice to the cause. The remarks
advanced on the subject may be called prejudice and
should it he prejudice, I have the consolatioii of know-
ing that I am not alone, as it is a well known fact, that
this prejudice exists wherever the negro may be found.

Merrimnck County. On my way to the Capital of
the State, I passed through the village of INIartins Fer-
ry, a handsome little village, 5 miles above Manches-
ter, and the village of Hooksett, n ntaining a popula-
tion of 1175, beautifully situated on the right bank of
the Merrimack river, 8 miles from the capital, a well
built village, with the Nashville and Concord Kailroad
passing through it, — Robinson's Ferry 4 miles further
north, is also a place of some promise.

Concord, with a population of 4,897, is t'.o Capil;il
of the State : il i>! V(^:v bt'.nitifull.v FJtnoied onbotlisidi'

CONCORD.

38&

or the Merrimack rivrr, 65 milrs from its mouth. This
splendid little town is principally built on two streets,
running nearly due east and west, and connected by
two handsome and substantial bridges across the Mer-
rimack river. The State House is constructed of hewn
granite, and is an elegant edifice of 126 feet in length,
and 4-9 feet deep, and was erected at a cost of $80,-
000. The State Prison is a strong and superb granite
structure, 70 leet long and 36 feet wide.

The town also contains several handsome and sub*
stantial banking houses, some elegant churches and ho-
tels. The Falls of the Merrimack at this place, cre-
ate a great water-power, which is advantageously em-
ployed in propelling machinery of various kinds.

The Concord railroad connects with the Boston and
Lowell and Nashville and Lowell railroads, making
with the Concord railroad, a distance of 73 miles be-
twixt Boston and Concord. This railroad also con-
nects on the north with the Northern railroad, which
is now in operation to Lebanon, a distance of 65 miles
above Concord, on the direct route to Montpelier and
Burlington, in the State of Vermont. I now returned
to Massachusetts and again visited Boston.

• I:

ggjjjjgjwwwsh,

R EV: K S L A V £■

C U A P T E U XXXV.

STATE OF IVIASSACinJSETTS,

ft^ocond arrival in Boston — Greek Slave — Sunday Scliooia — E-
quality of persons — liorsos — Dorchester lieights — Prospect —
Quincy — Old mansion of John Adams — Unitarian Churcli —
Tomh of John Adams — Quincy Church- Yard — Tombcf Julm
Q. Adams.

On my return fo this State, after a visit to the nian-
iilacturing towns of New Hampshire, I returned to the
city of Boston, from which I had set out. At this place
I liad an opportunity of seeing the Greek Slave, which
is represented by the figure of a beautiful woman, di-
vested of all drapery and exposed for sale manacled.
Here is a woman, the perfection of whose form is de-
signed to express the ideal beauty and purity of woman-
hood } but not only a woman the ideal of her sex, but a
Greek woman, a Christian woman, nurtured in the faith
of Him, who extended a hand to woman and called her
"daughter."

As I entered the exhibition-room, and marked first
the exquisite, the adorable beauty of the figure, I paus-
ed involuntarily, for she seemed unapproachable in the
divinity of her perfect loveliness ; then my eye fell u\h
on her manacles and chain ) then on the locket and the
cross hanging from the column at her side ; next I glan-
ced at the embroidered cap and robe at her side, and a-
gain at the manacles on her soft fair hands. I saw the
proud sadness of her attitude, tind drew near with pity
which bordered on awe ; then I looked upon that face,
grand in its heroic endurance, divinely beautiful in its
purity and inexpressibly mournful in its sorrow, which

TrRfeEK SLAVE.

387

at first caused my heart to beat andibly, and the tears
to spring to my eyes ; and for a moment I gazed through
a mist of sad but most exquisite emotion.

With what irrepressible tenderness, with what pity-
ing human love, we look upon this glorious creation of
a true artist's soul, the measure of whose fame is full,
as he wrought the figure as perfect no doubt as mortal
hand could make it. That it is wrought with a mechan-
ical skill almost miraculous ; that the arti'jt here shows
himself possessed of rare power, no one will dare to de-
ny, or for a moment question. To add one word of
praise to the exalted skill of Mr. Powers, is not within
the reach of my pen ; the most that I can say is that I
discover in the figure of the Greek Slave, divine har-
mony breath ir j; through the lines of beauty ; a lofty
poem, which writes itself on the gazer's spirit ; a sub-
lime tragedy in stone ; an immortal embodiment of wo-
manhood triumphant in sorrow and degradation ; torn
forever from her country, its faith and its loves ; chain-
ed in the market-place of her enemies, all disrobed and
awaiting her brutal purchaser ; yet pure as a seraph and
proud as a crowned queen ; — yet unconquerably con-
stant to her love, her country and her God. Oh what
a divinity of purity, what a glory of womanhood is
round about her, holier than the halo of saints, and far
more mighty than the panoply of warriors !

It is a little remarkable to observe the reverential
silence in the presence of the Greek Slave. No one
speaks above %a whisper; and many gaze with hushed
breath and tearful eyes, in a dreamy trance of admira-
tion, in a full, deep f>njoyment of a new and delicious

ill I si

588

GRl^EK SLAVE»

Bens^tion. The face is very beautiful, very tender and
Very womanly, though bearing faintly the stern im-
press of misiortune ; the mournful tracery of bereave-
ments, iears and wrongs ; as deeply felt as bravely en-
dured. By the embroidered cap and robe at her side,
as well as by the exquisite delicacy of her hands, we
may know the maiden is noble, and that luxury and
honyage have waited upon her steps from infancy. —
Then how fearful this bondage, and this exposure ; man-
acles on those fair hands and the gaze of vulgar eyes
upon that Unrobed patrician form, more torturing than
barbed arrows dipt in poison. But this woman, the
daughter of Greece, whose features discloie her line-
age, the doomed slave of the Turk, the dreaded enemy
of her religion and her race. Yet the noble daughter
dF Greece is represented by this celebrated statue, to
conquer all her agony, and hide it in the recesses of
her bosom, and to exhibit an angelic resignation 5 and
with the sublime bearing of a great soul, forgets her own
sorrow in that of those she loves. But she is dragged
far away from her brave and struggling country. Per-
chance she sees her sire vainly pouring out his life's-
blood tot its lost liberties, — Or perhaps she re/isits in
spirit her desolate home, where her mother grieves
ceaselessly for the child she can no longer fold to her
breast, whose return the old look not for, and whose
name little children speak mournfully.

The Greek Slave is perhaps the most sublime work
of art on the face of the globe. It faithfully expresses
the idea it prolesses to represent. It also addresses it-
self with great power to the sense of the beautiful ; but

SUNDAY SCHOOLS.

389

it appeals still more powerlully to our purest senti-
ments, breaking up all the hidden fountains of our most
sacred sympathies. It awakens in us a new and god-
like pity, and we come away from it with a new sense
ol the sacredness of womanhood and of woman's unut-
terable wrongs, when she is thus made a victim and a
slave, and that flower of heaven is flung down to be
trampled upon by the miry hoof of sensuality. In fine,
it acts upon us with a sanctifying and regenerating
power ; we feel as if we had been listening not merely
to a sermon, but to a sermon of unequal pathos expres-
sed in the enduring marble. As a work where purity
and beauty of form are manifested in a high degree, all
are compelled to admire this statue, which is sufficient
to kindle the soul of every beholder into a very high
degree of enthusiasm.

The next object I deemed worthy of notice on my
return to this great city, was tht» Sunday Schools, which
however, is not confined to the city ; but the system
prevails throughout the State. Almost every church,
not only in the city of Boston, but in the country, is
constructed with a basement storv, finished oflT for the
expressed purpose of Sabbath Schools. This department
ot the church is furnished with maps, charts, diagrams,
paintings, and the necessary furniture thereto belong-
ing. It is truly cheering to visit these Sunday Schools,
and observe the prospering condition and excellent
system of juvenile instruction, not only of one or two
sects, but all the different denominations, who are nu-
merous enough to aflford a church. It is no less cheer-
ing, to observe the progress the diflTerent classes are ma*

I :

-ti

: : I.

^I-

390

« U N D A V SCHOOLS.

king in their respective departments of learning. Ev-
ery class delights the stranger with the correct and as-
tonishing answers they make to the interrogations of
their respective teachers, not only in the various sci-
ences, but hii^h and weighty questions in the Scriptures.

Every Sunday School has a Chairman and Secreta-
ry ; the latter keeping a record of the whole proceed-
ing ot the school, and rewards the scholar with tick-
ets, pamphlets, a fancy newspaj.er, or a magazine of
plates, in proportion to the task. In addition to the r,-
bove rewards for industry, on certain occasions the vic-
tor receives a premium, and on still more important oc-
casions, there is a medal awarded to the victor. The
school usually closes by a short address by the Chair-
man, in which he generally tells an amusing anecdote,
and in some instances reads a report of some other Sun-
day School, by him received during the preceding
week, which has a tendency to stimulate an energy in
the school. This little congregation of urchins no less
delight the stranger with their vocal music, which is
performed with such precision, as to throw many a
worshipping congregation into the shade.

While visiting these flourishing institutions, and see-
ing the good effects they produced on the juvenile pop-
ulation, mv mind was drawn back to those denuncia-
tions I had frequently heard against Sunday Schools.
I would have been gratified to have had some ot those
objectors with me, especially those who say, (to use
their own language,) "that Sunday Schools are the cause
of grinding the Methodist doctrine into children, that
it will never be got out of them in the world." It is

he and anoti:

S iJ N O A Y b t; 11 O U L »

34 1

evident these same person^; woulil have bocumo thor-
oughly convinced, that it is iar better to give the Meth-
odists, or any other Christian denomination, an oppor-
tunity of grinding their doctrine into children, than
to run about the highways and streets, vi'here they have
ample opportunities of having not only the various
shades of mischief, but also a draught of brandy ground
into them.

It is somewhat strange, to find that the sympathies of
the whole people can be other than with the Sunday
Schools. For my own part, I think I am .safe in ad-
vancing, that the noble Sunday School systems of Mas-
sachusetts, are the cause of impressing more religious
truths on the youthful minds of the juvenile popula-
tion, and ten per cent more indelible, than the religious
truths impressed on the minds of the adult population,
by all the sermons and admonitions from the pulpit, in
the same length of time, though attended with the most
profound reasoning and thrilling eloquence. There-
fore, I for one, would say to the Presidents of these no-
ble institutions, go on in the great cause proclaimed by
a wise and mighty King, "train up a child in the way
he should go, and when he is old he will not depart
from it."

During my tour through various sections of the State,
I observed that equality was a conspicious characteris-
tic of the population. In the city of Boston, an in-
stance occurred which I deemed worthy of noting. —
In one of the Courts of Boston, a witness, and by no
means an ignorant one, stated on evidence, that while
he and another gentleman were shovelling up mud, ho

* 'I

li|:i

ij'Mkji.' 1

IsrJ 1

ti\f^*t

DOReilESTEIt HKICTfTS.

saw the prisoner throw the brick-bat at the policeman,
&€., from which it appears that the spirit ol social e-
quality has left no other signification to the terms gen-
tlemen and lady, but that of male and female individual.
Boston is famous for its excellent horses, and espe-
cially its draught horses, which are large, active, and
possess great muscular power ; the finest I seen during
my tour, even exceeding the famous draught horse of
Canada, in beauty and strength, but perhaps inferior on
the score of activity to that noble animal. The Boston
drayman has his horse harnessed in the most excellent
manner, being also ornamented with six or eight bells,
two of which are attached to the bridle, and the re-
mainder are fastened to a belt girded round the horse.
From four to six of these fine animals may be seen pla-
ced one before the other, stepping off in great pride
under the sound of their jingling bells. The driver
guides the shaft horse only, by means of lines in the u-
sual way, the others being under the control of his voice.
Norfolk county, Dorchester Heights, — The fort
which crowns this memorable height, is the scene of an
important chapter in the history of our Revolution. —
This height was fortified by order of Washington, after
the bloody battle of Bunker-Hill, as the summit of Dor-
chester commanded the harbor and city j a step which
he knew must bring on a general action with the be-
seiged British, who soon found that the city could not
be held unless the Americans were dislodged, which
the British commander undertook with great spirit ; but
a tremendous storm made such havoc among his trans-
ports as to compel him to suspend operations \ and af<

Q U 1 N C Y .

393

t^r a couicil of war the city was evacuated by the Brit-
ish embarking for Halifax in Nova Scotia.

The view of Boston from these heights is very com-
manding. The bay, with its fortified islands stretch-
ing away to the right, is very grand and beautiful from
its shape and from the brightness of its water ; the city
clustering upon its heights, rising in graceful lines to
the summit, which is crowned with the State House,
whose pinnacled cupola is the admiration of the New
England States. The country to the left is all that is
lovely in cultivation ; sprinkled here and there with
the most gay and flourishing villages. Look almost
where you may from this commanding height, you be-
hold the suburbs of the 'granite city,' sparkling with
villas on every hillside within the horizon.

Quincy, with a population of 3486, situated 8 miles
from Boston, is celebrated for the birth and residence
of the Adams family. The residence of the late John
Q. Adams is a large, venerable looking mansion, in the
background of which yet stands the old homestead,
which has the power of exciting very imposing feel-
ings, although but an old building ] but its inmates are
so thoroughly interwoven with our past history, that
this reverence is easily accounted for. In the imme-
diate vicinity of this are the elegant buildings belongs
ing to Charles F. Adams.

The next object of interest is the Unitarian Church,
under the walls of which is buried the illustrious John
Adams. On the right of the pulpit, as you enter the
Church, is a tablet of beautiful white marble, with a
handsome inscription to his memory j the tablet is sur-*

i:\i

ii ii

t- l:f

3:)4.

TOML OF JOltN <2. ADAM."?.

mountod by a IjusI cjI" the sterling patriot, whose ashe^
are slunibiTiiiir beneath. Bv his side lie the remains
of his rejimrUahle wile, to the memory of whom the old
liomaiis would undoubtedly have raised a statue, with-
out the least fear of countenancing woman's rights to
any dangerous extent.

The Quincy churchyard contains the grave of the
venerable John Q. Adams, which is distinguished only
b}' a plain granite structure, vyith no monument and
no tablet ; bearing only the letters raised on the stone,
the name J. Q. Adams, his birth, age and death ; all
severely simple and purely republican as the character
and life of the brave patriot, the conscientious states-
man and humble-hearted Christian, whose ashes repose
beneath its shelter.

As I stood by this plain and simple tomb, many of
the events connected with the life of its illustrious but
now slumbering inmate, passed in rapid review before
me. I of course first thought of the death of the states-
man, who in that hour when full of honors and years,
was stricken down in the national halls, like a star
struck suddenly from the blue vault of heaven. When
upon his dying lips lingered the words, "this is the last
of earth, I am content ;" and a sublime faith bearing up
his soul, he waited in God's love, the swift, silent com-
ing of the angel of death, in the same halls which 3'ears
before had oftimes echoed with the voice of his fervid
and impassioned eloquence.

Next came rushing over my mind, his patient indus-
try and lofty ambition, in gathering together and hoard-
ing up all varieties of knowledge } of the high and

lands, whi(

tow LANDS.

3i)9

.stainless morality of a life, beset by many and peculiar
temptations; of all that grand and beautiful display in
the councils ot our nation, \#fiorc he stood a conspici-
ous star in the history of the Republic, at times attend-
ed by sunshine playing around him, at other times
storms beat heavily upon his way, as he made himself
dearer and dearer to his country. When 1 again ga^
zed upon the simple resting place of the illustrious ex-
president, whose greatneas belongs to our country for-
ever, a legacy grand, benutiful, pric<'less ond imperish*
r>ble.

C H A P T E R X X X V 1 .

Low Lands — Towns — Plymouth — When founded — liock of l')}- -
mouLli — Remark — Piliriim Hall — Contrast hctwcen NorLli and
South America — Capo Cod — Barnstable — Yarmouth — Mji r-
tha's Vineyard — Edfrarton — Wine Grapes — C ny head — G recn
Land — Shell — Shark Teeth — Indians — Sea Breeze — I*onds —
Spotted Tortoise — Vineyard Sound — K'nvj; Crab.

Plymoidh county. On my way from Quincy tothi.«:
county, I passed through a considerable body of low
lands, which however, are rendered valuable l)y drain-
ing and the excellent mode of cultivation. On the
Old Colony railroad are the towns of Wymouth, Nu-
poset, Baintree, North Abington, Abington Centre.
South ^Bamtree, South Abington, North Hanson, South
Hanson, Halifax, Plympton and Kingston, contnining
each from 1000 to 4000 inhabitants, "all beisi'ji: siluaKxl
With the hiccbest resrard to location, some of them near

!iH^ (

.:t

i ;'

hji

39G

r r, Y M o u T H .

the old town of Plymouth, a place memorahle as the
region first colonized by our Pilgrim Fathers,

Plymouth, with a popufction of f>,281, is very beau-
tifully situated on Plymouth bay, 37 miles southeast of
Boston, celebrated as the oldest town in New England.
This venerable old town was founded as early as 1G20,
and possesses raany objects of great interest for so small
a town ; at the head of which may be named the ever
memorable Rock of Plymouth, on which landed our
Pilgrim Fathers, on the 22d of December, 1620. The
Rock was removed to the centre of the town, in the
year 1774, and is now protected by a handsome rail-
ing. The day on which I visited this venerable old
town was warm and pleasant, and the many touching
and glorious associations of the place came thronging
upon my mind. It was with no small delight that I
gazed upon the ever memorable Rock of Plymouth,
rendered hallowed by the footsteps of oup Pilgrim Fa-
thers, whfle I felt my gratitude warming for what our
ancestors have done for our happiness, which is also
reaching forward to our posterity, and meets them with
cordial salutation, ere they have arrived pn the shore
of being.

It was with no small pride that I viewed hereon the
shore pf the Atlantic, the Rock on which commenced
our greatness, ^^hich has been carried with a great
voice of acclamation ^nd gjratitude over the whole
breadth of the land, till it has lost itself in the murmurs
of the Pacific seas. Thus large has grown the mighty
tree of Liberty, under whose balmy boughs the perse-r
cpted of every clime are prote.cte^. A voice coipmen-

r I^ V M O U T l| ,

397

cing on the Rock of Plymouth, and yet resounding o-
ver the earth, which is to bid them welcome to this
pleasant land of the Pilgrim PVhers ; which bids them
welcome to the healthful skies and the verdant fields
of the American Union j which bids them welcome to
the blessings of good government and religious liberty ;
which bids them welcome to the treasures of science
and the delights of learning ; which bids them welcome
to the transcendent sweets ot domestic life, to the hap-
piness of kindred, and parents and children; which
bids them welcome to the immeasurable blessings of
rational existence, the imnriortal hope of Christianity
and the light of eternal Truth.

The next object of attraction is the Pilgrim Hall, Bt
rected for the Pjlgr^m Society, in the year 1820, or
just two hundred years aller the landing of the Pil-
grim Fathers. The Hall is a neat and beautiful edi-
fice, containing an admirable painting of the landing of
the Pilgrims, as ^y ell as a cabinet of rare and valuable
curiosities. While viewing this painting, my mind
was again drawn to the great progress of our country..
IJad Spain colonized this region, flow different would
have been her career of civilization, and how deploira-
ble her coi^ditipn, for we find that nation declining un-
der the most favorable circumstance^, as South Ameri-
ca affords a rich sojl, a climate adapted to the produc-
tion of every th^ng ^yl^icJl grows ov^t of the e^rth, and
possessing in gveai abundance, every metal used by
man. — While Massachusetts was settle^ by a few poor
Pilgrims, who were brought hither by their high ven-
eration for the Christian religion, and who carried no-

398

• • A r i: c u 1) »

thinf^ with Ihcm but their own hardy virtues and in-
doniitable enorgy, and fouml tho region with a sterile
soil, an ungcnial climate, and no sin«:^!e article for ex-
portation but ice and granite rock. How have the bles-
sings profusely given by Providence been improved on
the one hand, and the obstach^s overcome on tho otluM-'
What a wholesale contrast is here presented ! Look
at the anarchy, poverty, misery and degradation on tho
one hand, and the productive industry, wide-spread
diffusion of knowledge, public institutions of every
kind, general happiness, and continually increasing
prosperity in letters, arts, morals, religion, and in eve-
ry thing which makes a people great ;. and so far as my
information extends, I am warranted in asserting there
is not in tho world, and there never did exist, such a
commonweal ih as Massachusetts.

I now sailed on board a steamboat for Barnstable, on
Cape Cod, a distance of 30 miles. The Cape forms the
county of Barnstable. Cape Cod extends far into the
Atlantic in tho form of a crescent or half circle, there-
by bounding on the south the deep and celebrated bay
of Massachusetts. The city of Barnstable contains a
population of 4-311, situated on the same great bay. —
That portion of it however, on which the town is situ*
ated, is called Cape Cod bay. On the southern shore
of the Cape is the town of Yarmouth, with a popula-
tion of 2554^, situated 4 miles from Barnstable, which
distance is the only ^^'idth of the Cape at this place.
These two towns are largely engaged in the fisheries,
in proportion to their population. A steamboat now
carried us to Martha's Vin('vard, a distance of i24 or 25

MARTIIA*S VINEYAIII).

399

miles. The island of Martha's Vineyard is situated 80
milcd south of Jioston, and about 25 miles south of the
southern coast of the State. Thi§ island, like the pe-
ninsula of Nova bccWia, is tiimons for its fossils. The
principal town is Edgarlr'n, with apop\i]ationof 1730,
situated near the eastern extremity of the island, which
is about 20 miles long from east to W('st. The town
])ossesses few objects of attraction, unless you would
call fish and oysters, together with scores of dirty, grea-
sy and filthy looking fishermen, objects of attraction.

I did not find this island so famous for wine-grapes
as I expected, judging from the glowing descriptions
given of the place. In this respect, it has no stronger
claims than the southern coast of the State, where not
only the grape but the various vines grow as luxuriant-
ly as they do on the island itself, which is by no means
to so great an extent as is usually supposed.

Gayhead, a famous cliff of 200 feet high, situated at
the western end of the island, is the chief object of in-
terest, where the highly-inclined strata arc gaily color-
ed ; some consisting of bright red clays, others of white,
yellow and green sand, and som«j of black lignite. —
This section of strata is about four-filths of a mile in
length ; the beds dipping to the north and east, at an
anerle of from 35 to 45 dej^rees. The bed of p;reen sand
contains shells, teeth of large shark, and the remains of
the dolphin and of a whale of great size, and teeth of
the seal. In the same cliff, in some of the other strata
may be found numerous nodules of the shape of kidney
potato„es,*from one to two inches in diameter, and
smoother externally than an egg ; and I was informed

'W\V

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i.;'!;^i

400

INDIANS.

when analysed they have been found to contain no less
than 50 per cent of phosphate of lime.

On the island is a small settlementof Indians, a rem-
nant of ithe aborigines who have been protected by the
government of Massachusetts, yet all sales of land by
them to the whites js null and void by law. These In-
dians are said to maj^e excellent sailors in the whale-
fishery of the South Seas, $ source of great wealth to
the inhabitants of Martha's Vineyard, These resident
Indians are very intelligent and well clothed j and I
could not discover that the vice of drunkenness pre-
vailed among them, which evil I observed among the
remnants of some other tribes during ifiy tour. The
<>ccupation of the sailor in the whale-fishery, with all
its privalions and dangers, seems admirably suited to
the bodily constitution and hereditary instinct of a hunt-
ing tribe, to whom steady and continuous labor is irk-
some and injurious.

The Island contains fine timber and good water, both
spring and well ; and is also famous for its sea breeze,
which is quite salubrious and bracing to the constitur
tions of persons who may remain for a few weeks or a
month. The Island also contains numerous ponds of
fresh w.^ter, which are filled with frogs and turtles, and
among them some spotted tortoises, with red heads,
which at times may be seen travelling from one pond
of water to another. The Vineyard Sound contains as
many novelties as the fresh-water ponds ; for here may
be seen large specimens of the King Crab, crawling a-
bout in the salt-water pools, left by the sea on the re-
tiring of the tide, which is a novelty calculated to at-

STATB OF RHODE ISLIND.

401

tract the notice of the stranger, especially when these
pools are surrounded by a troop of boyp, who make a
great deal of sport in tormenting the King Crab and
turtle, which sport is generally brought to a close by

killing the turtles.

i' =

CHAPTER XXXVI I.

STATB or RHODB ISLAND.

Aspect of tho Southern part of the State — Newport — Harbour—
Fortifications — Fisheries — Narragansett bay — Mount Hope—
K ing Philip — Warwick — Providence — Harbour — State-house
— Dexter Asylum — Friends Academy — Arcade — Brown Uni-
versity — Athenaeum — Churches — Roger Williams — Manu-
factures — Railroads — Btackstone Canal — Towns.

On arriving within the southern boundary ol this
State, from Martha's Vineyard, I found it to consist of
almost as much water as dry land. Those of the isl-
ands of the State which we sailed in sight of, are rich
and highly cultivated, and especially the beautiful isl-
and of Rhode Island, more properly called Newport
Island, is celebrated for its beautiful cultivated appear-*
ance, abounding in smooth swells and being divided
with great uniformity into well tilled lields.

JVewport county. The city of Newport, with a pop
ulation of 8,333, is very beautifully situated on the
southwest extremity ot this delightful and highly cul-
tivated Island, and is particularly famous for the sum-
mer resort of the wealthy from all parts of the United
States, on account of its pleasant situation, the refresh-*

40:^

MOUNT HOPE KING rUILir.

ing coolness of the sea breezes, and its great advanta-
ges lor sea-bathing ; it being situated 14" miles from the
Atlantic.

The harbour is one of the finest in the world ; beins;
safe, capacious and easy of access, and is defended by
two great forts, Wolcott and Adams, erected by the U-
nited States government. The city is extensively en-
gaged in commerce, and many of its inhabitants em-
ployed in the fisheries, which is a source of great wealth.
This place is by far the most beautiful to be engaged
in the fisheries, of any I saw during my tour, as many
of the other great fishing towns were frequently not
only soiled by them, but rendered disagreeable by their
smell, which was by no means the case with this place.
Newport is also celebrated for the birth of Gilbert Stu-
art, the far-famed portrait painter, and of Melbone, so
celebrated for his miniatures.

In sailing up the Narragansett bay about 9 miles,
landed us at the city of Bristol, containing a popula-
tion of 34'90, in a county of the same name. The city
id situated on the eastern shore of the bay, and is quite
a flourishing place, actively engaged in the foreign and
coasting trade, and whale fisheries. The town is a ve-
ry pleasant one, containing many handsome dwellings
and several beautiful churches.

Mount Hope, near the city, is celebrated as having
been the residence of the famous King Philip, Sachem
of the Wampanoag tribe of Indians, the grandson and
successor of the celebrated Massasoit, who fifly years
before the depredations of Philip, had made a treaty
with the Plymouth colony. The place consists only

, Jl

•si

PROVIDENCE.

403

oi a hill of no great height, and is no lcs3 celebrated
for the death ol this terrible chief, whoso transcendant
abilities are handed down to the people of Rhode Isl-
and, who assert that the advantage of civilized educa-
tion and a wider theatre of action, would have made
the name of Philip as memorable as that of Alexander
or Caesar. ,

la two hours our boat again sailed up the bay, and
touched at Warwick, which contains a population of
6,726, situated on the western shore of the bay, at the
mouth of the Pawtuxet river, which is a city extensive-
ly engaged in manufacturing. The river above this
place has a sufficient fall to create a vast water-power,
which is economically applied to manufacturing pur-
poses. The town is also famous for its fish.

Soon after leaving this place, we arrived at the city
of Providence, with a population of 23,181, being the
second city in New England in point of wealth and
population, it being the Capital of the State. The ci-
ty is divided into two nearly equal parts by the Provi-
dence river, so called, more properly the head of Nar-
ragansett bay, where it receives the Mooshasuck river.
The city is connected by two bridges which are thrown
over the river, near the head of tide water. The town
is situated 35 miles from the Atlantic, and can be ap-
proached with the largest ships. The harbour is excel-
lent, animated by sailors of all sorts and sizes. Steam-
boats of the largest and finest class, keep up a daily
communication with New York during the greater part
of the year.

Th^ State House, constructed of brick, is a splendid

rli

■^r 1^

404

PROVIDENCE.

edifice for its size. The Dexter Asylum for the poor
of the city, is a massive structure of brick, three sto-
ries high, 170 feet long and 45 feet wide. The Friends
Academy or boarding school, is another spacious struc-
ture of brick.

The Arcade, finished in 1828, at the expense of
$130,000, is the most spacious and splendid building
in the city. It occupies the whole space between two
streets, being 226 feet in length and 72 feet in width.
The body of the edifice is built of split stone, covered
with cement. It contains two fronts of hammered gran-
ite, 72 ieet wide, presenting colonnades of the pure
Doric style of six columns each. These columns are
25 feet in height, the shaAs being 22 feet in length,
and each of a single block.

Brown University, which takes its name from Nich-
olas Brown* ol the city, who was its most munificent
benefactor, is the second building in size and elegance
in the city. It consists of two splendid halls, built of
brick, four stories high, 150 feet long and 48 feet wide.
This University was founded in Warren, in 1764, and
removed to Providence in 1770, andiias now an ex-
tensive philosophical apparatus, and a library of more
than 14,000 volumes; in a word, the University is in a
very flourishing condition under its present learned head.

The Athenaeum, a massive granite structure, occu-?
pies an excellent site and was founded in 1836. It
has an excellent library. There are here 18 church-
es;^ the most spacious and elegant are two Unitarian,
the first Baptist and the St. John's Episcopalian, which
iour may be ranked among the most elegant in the U-

MANUrACTUftes.

405

nited States. Prbvidetice Was first settled in 1636, and
is memorable for the retreat of Roger Williams, when
persecuted in Massachusetts, in 1635. It was to this
eccentric and opinionated, but sincere and pious man,
that Providence is indebted for het* settlement, which
at thisday stands the second city in New England, with
a capital of more than $3,000,000 invested in manufac-
tures, and $5,000,000 employed as capital in banking
institutions.

The Constitution adopted in 1842, by a majority of
the legal voters, after a great display of party rancour,
appears now to take very well, after they have become
weaned from the celebrated charter granted by Charles
II, in 1663, which some of them appeared to cling to,
with a tenacity which was not to be shaken.

The city is famous for its manufactories, among which
may be named cotton mills, woollen mills, bleacheries,
dye-houses, machine-shops, iron-foundrieS) nail-facto-
ries, &c. It also has an active coasting and foreign
trade. It is connected with Boston by railroad, and
with Stonington in Connecticut. The Blackstone ca-
nal connects it with Worcester in Massachusetts.

On our way to Worcester, by the Providence and
Worcester railroad, we passed through the following
towns : Pawtucket, Centre Falls, Valley Falls, Lons-
dale, Ashton, Albion, Manville Woonsocket, Water-
ford and Blackstone, all of which are in the most pros-
pering condition. The first of which is famous for its
cotton mills, calico printing works, &c., in such a high
condition that Lowell itself has no reason to be asha-*
med of it.

11
mi

it j £

mmmmm

406

ULaCKSTONE VaLLEV.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

STATS OF MASSACHUSETTS.

Third arrival in the State — Towns — Worcester — Railroads —
State Lunatic Asylum — Antiquarian Ilall — Villages— Brook-
field — Towns — Springfield — State of Agriculture — United
States Armory — Gardens — Cranberry — Peas and Beans — Cul-
ture — Hedges — Fences — Posts.

Worcester county. Soon after leaving the village of
Blackstone, I again found myself in Massachusetts, be*
ing the third time I entered it in less than ten days
time. I found the Blackstone Valley to be adorned
with numerous towns and villages, which, with their
gardens and public grounds attached, displayed much
taste and beauty, fn addition to the order and taste
displayed, they appear to be situated with the highest
regard to beauty of location. They are Uxbridge, Whi-
tins, Dunplace, Northfield, Farnumville, Grafton, Sut-
ten, Millbury and Quinsigawand, which are respect-
ively well built, pleasant places, especially Uxbridge,
which is situated on the left bank of the Blackstone
river, and carries on some manufactures.

Worcester, containing a population of 7,497, is sit-
uated on the Blackstone river, near the head of the
Blackstone Valley, is a fine inland town, connected
with Providence by the Blackstone canal, opened in
1828, at a cost of $600,000. It also has a railroad
communication with Boston, Providence, S| liugfield
and Albany. The town contains some fine buildings,
among which are the State Lunatic Asylum, establish-
ed in 1832, a very celebrated institution , the American

liROOKFIELD

iOlf

Antiquarian Hall, erected in 1820; the society was
founded in 1812, and is now in a flourishing state. —
The hall contains a very valuable library of 16,000
volumes, and a cabinet of valuable antiquities. The
town is situated 44 miles west of Boston, and is active-
ly engaged in manufacturing, having over $500,000
invested for that purpose.

On our way to Springfield, we passed through three
flourishing towns, each of which are situated on the
Worcester and Albany railroad, viz: Clapville, Carl-
ton, and Spencer, halting about an hour at Brookfield,
memorable as the place where the English took refuge
after being routed by the Indians, and their comman-
der, Capt. Hutchinson, killed. Here was shown me
the spot where the house stood, in which the inhabi-
tants and routed soldiers took shelter, which the Indi-
ans surrounded alter having burned all the other hou-
ses, and poured a storm of musket balls upon it for two
days ; after which, the arrows of fire and the cart load-
ed with flax and tow was applied, by pushing it a-
gainst the house with long poles. At this critical mo-
ment, a torrent of rain descended and suddenly extin-
guished the kindling flames, soon after which the ap-
proach of Major Willard dispersed the Indians, and sa-
ved the beseiged.

Hamden county. Warren, Brimfleld, Palmer, North
Wilbraham and South Wilbraham are towns varying
in population from one to three thousand inhabitants
each, being situated on the Worcester and Albany rail-
road, and present the most delightful and flourishing
appearance, several being situated in a fine region of

40S

STRlNOriKLD

country, within a few miles ofSpringfteld, all of which
little towns are neatly built, occupying pleasant sites and
have a portion of the famouj Connecticut valley to
support their prosperity*

Springfield, with a population of 10,985. This beau-
tiful town was called by the Indians, Agawam. It is
situated on the right bank of the Connecticut river, and
is one of the most splendid towns in New England, be-
ing situated in a very fertile and charming region of
country, which is all that is lovely in cultivation,
where the science of agriculture is managed in a mas^
terly degree.

Springfield and its vicinity is memorable for the in-
roads and depredations of the Indians. We however,
are not to oe surprised that the Indians held on to
Springfield and its vicinity, with a tenacity which no-
thing but death could affect, as it is part of the Con-
necticut valley, the garden spot of the New England
States*

The town of Springfield is well laid out, the build-
ings being large and elegant, the streets are broad and
well paved, with fine avenues of the American elm on
each side of them, the churches, (twelve or thirteen in
number,) generally highly finished and possessing much
elegance* The United States Armory, about half a
mile from the town, is a great object of interest. This
establishment comprises several large buildings, where
about 250 men ar« constantly employed in the manu-
facturing of arms. They complete about 15,000 mus-
kets annually. Springfield has a communication with
Boston, Albany, Hartford and Nevv Haven by railroad,

GARDEJirS.-

409

and also witti the t\X'o last named places by steamboat
on the Connecticut river, which is navigable to this
place;

The gardens in the vicinity ot the town receive the.
greatest attention. I here observed that Yankee en-
terprise was displayed no less in gardens than in other
pursuits of life, at least so far as order, neatness, arrange-
ment, taste, beauty and variety of plants are concern-
ed ; among which may be found grapes, currants, goos-
berries, raspberries, strawberries, flowering shrubbery,
the various roots and plants, in a word, as much vege-
tation as can be found on the same area ot ground, in
any other region of country, in the same latitude.

The cranberry may be seen growing spontaneously
here ad W'ell as in other sections of the State. Thev
are generally planted on low, moist meadow-lands,
which are prepared by subsoil plowing and thorough
harrowing. They are then set in drills, about 3 inch-
es apart, the rows being about 20 inches from each
other. They are cultivated on the order of corn, by
keeping the weeds down and stirring the ground with
a light cultivator for a time, as they soon occupy the
whole ground. The berries are gathered with a rake
made for the purpose. Three hundred bushels per a-
cre have been produced, which are worth in market,
from one to two dollars per bushel.

Peas and beans are here a flourishing (?rop. The
peas are most usually sown broadcast, at the rate of
from two to three bushels per aci^e, and plowed in to
the depth of three inches and th« ground afterwards
rolled Bmooth to facilitate gathering. The beana ar?
IS

1 1

* J
i

410

II £ IJ G L *

planted in drills in the usual way, about one and a liafi
bushels of seed to the acre, when sown broadcast about
as much more seed is used. They are usually gather-
ed by ^mowing or by means of an iron hook-rake. —
The vines are gathered into small heaps, where they
remain for a while till dry, when they are thrasbod,
cleaned and spread till entirely free from dampness. —
The straw or haulm is then stacked for the use of sheep,
as it is considered excellent fodder for them. Large
quantities are raised not only here but m the New Eng-
land States generally, for the purpose of feeding sheep,
as beans are considered one of the best kin.^s of winter
food lor them, they being the only animal which eats
the bean raw. The crop produces usually irom fifty
to sixty bushels per acre when sown, and from twen-
ty-five to thirty when drilled.

On my way from Worcester to this place, as well
as in some other sections of the State, my attention was
drawn to the various modes of fencing. Hedges arc
comparatively few, and when met with are generally
short. They are objected to as occupying too much
ground and harboring vermin. Such however, as are
met with are made up of different kinds of shrubbery,
sometimes several kinds in the same fence, amonj;
which may be seen English hawthorn, the holly, with
an evergreen leaf handsomely variegated with yellow
spots, and armed with short still thorns ; the gorsc, a
prickly shrub bearing a yellow blossom. These are
fences more far taste and fancy than real profit. In
the more substantial hedges are the buckthorn ; the o-
sage orange grows lirre, but is better adapted to a south-

r r: N e E s .

i)V

rrn climate ; thi^ native thorn, the Michigan rose and
the sweet-briar, both hardy and of luxuriant growth ;
the crab-apple and wild plumb, with their thick tough
branches and formidable thorns, constitute the best of
these fences. The wild laurel, an evergreen of great
beauty at all times and especially when clothed with
its magnificent blossoms, at which time it forms a beau-
tiful hedge.

Many of the fences are constructed by a substantial
foundation of stone, reaching about two feet above the
ground, in which posts are placed at proper distances,
with three bar holes above the wall, in which an equal
number of rails are inserted. A fence constructed of
posts and rails, and posts and boards, are common where
there is a deficiency of timber. The posts are placed
in the centre of a large hole, about two and a half feet
deep and surrounded by fine stone, which is well pound-
ed down by a heavy iron shad rammer, as they are fil-
led in. The lower end of the post is pointed, to pre-
vent its heaving with the frost.

In preparing the posts for fencing, its position while
in the tree is reversed, or the upper end of the split
section of the trunk, which is used for a post, is prepa-
red to be placed in the earth, as it is contended by per-
soni to be more durable. This end is frequently char-
red or partially burned, which will also add to its du-
ration. Some posts are prepared by boring a hole near
the surface, or that portion of it which comes near the
surface of the earth when planted ; this hole is bored
with a large augur, diagonally downw^ards and nearly
throu2b, which is afterwards filled with salt and close-

f \i

?': :l i 1

412

J^TATE or CON'Nr.CTICLT.

]y plugged, which is said to add greatly to its Hniabiir*
ly. This process and that of charring or burninj^, ex-
tends only f6 oak and chestnut, and siTch other timber
less durable than cedar and lacust.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

STATB OF CONNBCTICni'.

Connecticut Vrtll<<y — Ponds — Connecticut river — High Htandard
ot agriculture-*^ Equality of persons — Birds — Delightful scemc
ry — Shade Trees — The Grape — Gardens— Screen or Hurdlo
— Unfenced portion of the valley — Sunken Fence — Villages
— Connecticut Bridge — Dwelling-houses — Hartford — State-
House— City Hall — Trinity College — Athenaemn-^ Afner)can
Asylurti-^-Retreat for the Insane — Manufactures — Rocky Hill
—Historical sketch — Towns — Barren Land — New- Haven*—
Harbour--State-House — State Hospital — Yale College — Min-
eralogical Cabinet — Trumbull Gallery — Gardens — Streets-
Avenues of Shade Trees — Public Square — Remark — Public
Cemetery — East Rock — Prospect — Flumming- Birds — Long
"Wharf — Commerce.

Hartford county, — In travelling from Springfield
down the famous Connecticut Valley, I found it a great
luxuriant meado\v, chec|uered by patches of wheat,
corn and other grains. There are no tunnels and very
few embankments on the railroad. The traveller there-
fore, has an excellent view of the country, which con-
tains a number of small lakes and ponds, affording a
pleasing variety to the scenefy j and they are as useful
as they are ornamental. The water is beautiful and
clear, and I was told when they are frozen to the depth

tuN.NKCTUU r VALt.r.V.

413

of many ieet in wlnl»»r, they I'urnish larj^o cul>ical ma.»i-
os of ice, which are sawed in square blocks of conve-
nient size, and transported to the principal cities thro'-
out the Union, and even shipped to South America.

The hanks of the Connecticut River, for miles, were
covered v ith an elegant species of golden rod, with its
showy bright yellow flowers ibrming two golden bi'lts,
with the silvery waves of the Connecticut rolling in
majestic grandeur between them, presenting a scene
delightful and sublime. This delightful Valley, as
well as many other portions of the New-P]ngland States,
is entirely destitute of large timber, owing to its being
cut down originally without mercy, because it served
as an ambush for the Indians, since which time it has
never recovered.

The Valley of the Connecticut presents a pleasing
picture of a rural population, where there is neither
poverty nor great wealth. Here the elements of agri-
cultural knowledge are scattered broadcast over the
country, and brought within the reach of the poorest
citizens and the humblest capacities. The great sci-
ence of Agriculture is raised to its proper standard, and
the farmer, who is the " bone and sinew" of our coun^
try, is here met at his daily avocations by doctor, law-
yer, merchant and dandy, and receives fro^n each and
all, as cordial a shake of the hand as he would from his
brother farmer. There is a remarkable contrast, in this
respect, between the New-England States and the Old
Dominion, a portion of which I attribute to the high
standard of agriculture, which of course to some de-
btee, disarms those persons of their whims, and they

p. 1 1{ I) * ,

meet the plain farmer upon more equal footing. In
this respect, my attention was particularly directed to
the dandy tribe, in which the contrast was so great be-
tween the South and East, that I also came to the con-
clusion that the Eastern dandy could not be orthodox,
as I observed he did not take the same pride in making
inroads upon the cigar-box and his father's or guar-
dian's purse ; neither is bowing and scraping practiced
to such a wholesale extent as it is by the genuine boot-
ed and strapped dandy of the South.

Among the many beauties of the Connecticut Val-
ley which attract the attention of the stranger, may
be named its numerous Birds, that keep up a ceaseless
song, while chirping and skipping among the branches
of the numerous and beautiful shade trees of the Valley.
These birds are many of them adorned with a brilliant
plumage, and whose songs, intermingled with the din
of ihe grasshoppers and crickets, add animation to the
scene spread out before the view of the traveller, while
the flowering shrubbery conspicuous on every hand, is
also animated with scores of humming-llrds and hawk-
both, or humming-sphinx, all poised in the air^ while
sucking the flowers, the body seeming motionless and
the wino-s bein-; invisible from the swiftness t»i their
vibration.;, whose buz is delightful to the ear and ani-
mating to the mind.

The shade trees of the Valley possess all that is love-
ly, graceful and imposing, being of the choicest spe^
cies, among the largest of which may be named the
elm, one of the most graceful and imposing trees, with
its beautiful projecting limbs and long pendant branch-

^!lAD2 tREES.

il5

:ing

es. Would that all could see the patriarchal elms
which grace the beautiful villages and country dwell-
ings of the Connecticut Valley ! I would almost guar-
antee their universal dissemination. The sugar maple,
a beautiful tree having a straight trunk, and regular,
upward branching limbs, forming atop of great sym-
metry and elegance. This tree, besides the ornamen-
tal and thick shade it affords, gives an annual return in
its sap, which is used for making into sugar and syrup,
and its timber is esteemed valuable for furniture. The
black walnut, a stately, graceful tree of great value for
its durability ; the white ash, with its slender and stiff
top, has a light and graceful appearance ; the weeping
willow, with its variegated foliage and long flexile
twigs, sometimes trailing the ground for yards in length,
whose silvery leaves are among the earliest of Spring
and the last to maintain their verdure in Autumn; the
locust, with its profusion of flowers and massive flakes
of innumerable leaflets of the deepest verdure, are a-
mong the largest shade trees which grace the Connec-
ticut Valley.

The grape appears to grow as spontaneous in this
Valley as any thing else. The vine is frequently seen
taking possession of the scattered trees in the fields and
borders of woodlands, without receiving any attention
or labor, except the planting in some instances, and a
few stakes to protect them while young from injury by
cattle or other animals. They are planted on the south
^de of the tree when planted at all, where they will
receive the warmth of the sun, where they need only
a little protection. They are also planted near the

f[l:ji

il6

G A R i) E .V »

dwelling oti the south side of a j>ost, which is firiuiy
planted in the earth, being of considerable height. —
The shoots or scions are two or three in number, and
are trained up the post by means of loops <^f leather,
till the first of March in the second year after planting,
at which time the number is reduced- to one, which is
to make the trunk of the vine. This is cultivated by
pruning, training and manuring, together with such o-
ther attention as it may require. With this small at-
tention the native wild grape is said to produce an a-
bundance of fruit.

In the gardens and pleasure grounds may sometimes
be seen a screen or wire fence of taste or fancy, around
beds of flowering shrubbery, which is very beautiful.
This screen or fence is frequently called by these peo-
pie hurdle. It is variously formed of cordage, wire or
wicker work, in short pannels, and firmly set in the
ground by sharpened stakes or posts, which are some-
times made of iron, at the end of each pannel. When
this hurdle is constructed of wire, it is prepared by
boiling the wire in linseed oil, heated as hot as it will
bear for half an hour. The wire is then taken off and
hung in the sun until it is dried. This process is re-
peated three times. The object is to make the wire
tough, and render it impervious to rust. When con-
structed of cordage, a coat or two of a proper composi-
tion is applied, which rerxders it water-proof, and great-
ly adds to its duration.

In one portion of the Valley the prospect is not e-
ven obstructed by a fence. This portion of it is called
the unfenced part of the Valley, which is cauecd by

SUNKEN FENCn.

417

the scarcity of timber. To remedy this evil to some
degree, extensive legislative powers reside in the sep-
arate towns, which enables each to adopt such regula-
tions as best comport with their own interests. There-
fore, no animals are permitted to go on the fields till
autumn, and the crops are required to be removed at a
designated time, when each occupant is at liberty to
turn on the common premises, a number of cattle pro-
portionate to his standing forage, which is accurately
ascertained by a supervisory board. This arrangement
prevails chiefly on the broad bottom lands which skirt
the banks of the Connecticut river, where in many
places, the periodical inundations would sweep away
a fence if they had the materials wherewith to make
one.

In other sections of the vallev, the sunken fence is
used, which is said to be perfectly efficient, and is cer-
tainly agreeable to good taste. It consists of a vertical
excavation on op? side about five feet in depth, against
which a wall is built to the surface of the ground. —
The opposite side is inclined at such an angle as will
preserve the sod from sliding from the effects of the
frosts and rain. This fence therefore, does not obstruct
the view any more than where there is none whatever.
To the addition of serving as a fence, they afford good
ditches for the drainage of water, and always remaia
in good repair.

On my way down the valley to Hartford, I passed
the following villages, at each of which we stopped :
Tompsonville, Warehouse Point. At the latter place

there is a very strong and splendid bridge over the

18*

H A 11 t K u n n .

Oonni'ctirut river, on which Iho cars pass. The l)riil|j;(?
is 12G0 foot long and cost $120,000, built at such a
height that steamboats and packet ships pass through
under it. Being built on six arches, with a roof, it af-
fords a charming prosp<»ct of the river. Windsor Lock,
near the bridge on the west bank of the river, is a
handsome little vilhge. The town of Windsor, with
a population of 2283, situated Avithin 7 miles of Hart-
ford, is a handsome, flourishing little town.

The dwelling-houses in the country, are many of
them only one story high, with a neat little brick
chimn€*y at each end ; and the houses are generally
weather-boarded and painted either white or yellow,
the latter most frequently. The arrangements connect-
ed with the dwelling, as well as the farm buildings are
neat and convenient. Some of the houses have both
Chi mnies at the side of the house instead of the end,
being from ten to twelve feet ajjart, owing to the size
of the building. This mode of building chimnies, how-
ever, is not so common in the Connecticut valley asia
some other old settled sectionp of New England.

Hartford, with a population of 9468, is very beauti-
fully situated on a commanding site, on the west bank
of the Connecticut river. It stands in a fertile district
bespangled with neat villages, which enjoy the advan-
tages of numerous millseats, and easy communication
with Long Island Sound and the Atlantic. The site
occupied by the city ofHartford, contained only one
house and a fort in the year 1633, and three years af-
terwards it was permanently settled by the Rev. Mr.
Hooker and some emigrants from M assachuset ts. The

It A 11 I F () n i>

il<>

city !ia« a <1;iily cornmunicalion witU ,\t'W York by
Ntoamboats.

Hartford is a semi-capital of tlio Stato, and contains
n very spl»^ndid State-Jiousc, where the legislature
meets each alternate year ; the other rapito! being at
New Haven. The city Hall is an elegant structure,
occupying a delightful site. The Trinity Collge, found-
ed in 1824, and then called Waflhingloa College, is a
very flourishing institution, with large and excellent
halls. The Athenceum, an elegant gothic edifice, is
richly worth inspection. The American Asylum, for
the instruction of the deat and dumb, established in
1816, the first of the kind in America, has now 145
pupils, who receive instruction in various branches of
learning, and acquire a knowledge of the useful arts.
The retreat for the Insane, a very celebrated institu-
tion which has been in operation since the year 1824,
There are here numerous branches of industry, among
which are the manufacturing of wearing apparel, sad-
dlery, wire, cards, shoes, &c. Rocky Hill, a place in
the immediate vicinity of the city, where can be seen
a large mass of columnar trap, with red sandstone. In
this famous quarry, the distinct joints which divide the
sandstone, contrast finely with the divisional planes
which separate the basalt into pillars.

Hartford is celebrated for the Convention of the Fed-
eralists on the 15th of December, 1814, which is said
to have been a treasonable combination of ambitious
individuals, who taking advantage of the embarrass
menta of the national administration, arising out of the
war, sought to sever the Union, and so far as can btt

i :

420

HARTFORD.

learned, they were only deterred from an open attempt
to accomplish their purpose, by the unexpected con-
clusion of" a treaty of" peace with Great Britain, which
disembarrassed the immortal Madison and his adminis-
tration, and swept away all grounds upon which to
proviecute their unholy designs.

After a session of near three weeks, they published
a report, in which they threw a mantle over their de-
signs, by dwelling upon the public grievances felt by
the JNew England States particularly, af\er which, in
no small degree, they proceeded to suggest no less than
seven different alterations of the Federal Constitution,
and concluded their report with a resolution providing
for the calling of another Convention, should the Uni-
ted States refuse to favor their d signs. On which these
black cockade delegates dispersed, whose acts have
since been bitterly denounced and charged as being of
a treasonable nature. A charge from which it is said,
neither their report nor secret journal has the power
of exonerating them. Therefore they will ever re-
ceive the scorn of the world and the curses of the A-
merican people, so long as a spark ol republican feel-
ing remains in their breasts.

. Down the valley from Hartford, are the towns of
New Britain and. Berlin Station ; the latter with a pop-
ulation of 3411, situated at the distance of 11 miles be-
low the city. At this place, stages leave for Bristol,
Terryville and Plymouth, on the arrival of the steam-
boat train from New Haven, The town is well laid
out, located on a beautiful site, handsomely ornament-
ed with shade trees of a hardy and beautiful species.

name, oi

N K W II A V i: N .

4:^1

The town contains somo fine looking dwellings, and
several laro;e and elegant churches.

JVew Haven county. The village of Meridian Sta-
tion, with a population of 1880, situated 7 miles below
Berlin, is a pleasant little place. At this place stages
are in readiness on the arrival of the same train above
noticed, to take passengers to Middletovvn and Water-
bury. Between Meridian Station and the city of New
Haven, are the villages of VVillingford and North Ha-
ven 5 the latter with a population of 1351, which is
quite an attractive little town. Near this place, is a
considerable area of barren land, which is surrounded
by the most fertile region of country. On seeing this
barren spot at a considerable distance oiF, I fancied it
was a great field of ripe wheat. This spot presents the
more remarkable appearance, owing to its being situa-
ted in the midst of a region clothed in the most luxuri-
iant verdure.

New Haven, with a population of 12,960, is very
beautifully situated at the head of a bay of the same
name, on a large plain, 4 miles from Long Island So' nd.
The harbour is safe and spacious, but it is shallow and
gradually filling up. New Haven was founded in
1638, by Theophilus Eaton and John Davenport. In
the year 1565, it was united to Connecticut by royal
charter, and plundered by the British in 1779. It is
now also a semi-capital of the State, and contains a
State House, an elegant structure built of brict. The
State Hospital, founded in 1824, is a large and splendid
building, well arranged. Yale College, one of the
most celebrated literary institutions in the United

fft .

4'i«

N' K W HAVEN.

States, was founded at Killing worth, in 1701, removed
to Say brook in 1707, and to New Haven in 1717.—
The halls belonging to this memorable institution arc
large and superb. This college contains a splendid
mineralogical cabinet, and a very valuable library of
over 33,000 volumes. The late Col. Trumbull be-
queathed to the College, many of the best productions
of his pencil, which are arranged in an appropriate
building known as the Trumbull Gallery. This galle-
ry is opened daily to visiters, and the proceeds arising
from the exhibition, (25 cents being the admittance
fee,) are appropriated to aid indigent students in ob-
taining their education.

The city is regularly laid out and neatly built ; ma-
ny of the houses have the most splendid gardens at-
tached. The streets are broad and bordered with the
most beautiful avenues of shade trees, of the choicest
species, which mingle agreeably with the buildings of
Yale College and the numerous churches. In the cen-
tre of the city is a most beautiful square, ornamented
with the same fine graceful trees, and surrounded with
the most splendid edifices.

The graceful and beautift:! trees ot the public square
with those of the far-famed College, have a most im-
posing appearance. They have too a social and moral
influence, far beyond the mere gratification of the eye
or the consideration of dollars and cents. In their fresh-
ness and simplicity, they impress the young mind with
sentiments of purity and loveliness as enduring as life.
From the cradle of infancy, consciousness first da\^ns
upon the beauty of nature ; beneath their grateful shad^

JTIADE TREES — EAST ROCK.

423

the more boisterous sportsof childhood seek their keen-
est enjoyment amid their expanded foliage ; and they
become the favorite resort, when the feelings assume a
graver hue, and the sentiments of approaching man-
hood usurp the place of unthinking frolic. Their mem-
ory in after life, greets the lonely wanderer amid his
trials and vicissitudes, exciting him to breast the storm
of adversity till again welcomed to their smiling pres-
ence. Their thousand associations repress the unhal-
lowed aspirations of ambition and vice, and when the
last sun of decrepid age is sinking to its rest, these ven-
erable monitors solace the expiring soul, with the as-
surance that a returning Spring shall renew its exist-
ence beyond the winter of the tomb.

The public Cemetery, containing about 18 acres, is
very tastefully laid out in avenues running at right an-
gles with each other, bordered on each side with neat
white railings^ on which appear the names of the own-
ers of the lots enclosed. The East Rock, situated on
the opposite side of the head of the bay, is a very high
bluff of rock, rising so abruptly as to be very fatiguing
to gain the summit, which however affords a charming
prospect of the plain and Long Island Sound, as far as
the eye can reach. In the beautiful gardens of the city
may be seen flowering shrubbery, and plants of almost
every kind. Here I saw for the first time in a garden,
the scarlet lobelia and a large sweet-scented water lily.
The humming birds fluttering around the flowers of a
gladiolus was a delightful scene. The wharves are
gxx)d, Long Wharf, being 3945 feet in length. The
^reign and coasting trade of the city is considerable^

I i

424.

LUNG ISLAND riOl'NU.

and its manufactories of fire-arms, carriages, i^c, are
very extensive.

CHAPTER XL.

STATS or NEW YORK.

Long Island Sound — Secnery — Beauties of Long Island Sound
— Approach of the City of New York — The Country — Ship-
ping of the City of New York — Horses — Battery — Prospect,

A few minutes after entering the Steamer Commo-
dore, I found myself within the boundary of the Em-
pire State, by sailing in the very bosom of the Long
Island Sound, which is from ninety to ninety-five miles
long, and from five to fitleen miles wide. The dav
was very beautiful ; the sun shining on the water with
her bright rays, added sublimity to the scene. We had
Long Island on the one side and the mainland on the
other ; the scenery at first tame, from the width oi the
channel, but very lively and striking when this became
more contracted ; and at length we seemed to be sail-
ing into the very suburbs of the great city of New
York itself, passing between green islands, some of then>
covered with buildings and villas.

The longer we sailed and the nearer the sun got to
the horizon, the more brilliant and sublime did the rays
appear. I was not a little diverted on hearing some
of the passengers comparing the changing hues of the
clouds and sky to the blue and red colours in the pig-
eon's neck. The brilliancy of the rays ol the sun fal-
ling obliquely on the bosom of the water, presented a

< ITV AN!) ColMRy.

425

ficpne truly iin] using and grand. The watery element
appeared to change its hues every moment ; tlie shades
of purple and green fleeting over it, now dark, now
lustrous, now pale and then a streak of silver light di-
vided the shades of green.

The nearer we approached the great metropolis, the
more imposing the scene, as the chimnies of countless
steam-boats, factories and houses ol a population of near-
ly four hundred thousand souls, rolled up a magnificent
cloud of smoke, which ascended heavenward, while the
rays of a dazzling sun shed refulgent glories on every
part of the scene, till we landed at the wharf, surroun-
ded by hundreds ol steamers, ships, schooners, sloops,
&c., amid the din and noise ol the wharves of a great
and populous city.

By the time I landed at this place a second time, I
hrd become alrpost disgusted with large cities, as I had
reason to believe that all populous places are unheal-
thy, because the atmosphere is perpetually being poi-
soned and corrupted. Putrid, animal and vegetable
substances necessarily abound in them : high walls and
crowded houses obstruct»the free passage of the air, &
while miasmata thus created and confined are poison-
ing the atmosphere, thousands of human beings are
breathing it, and of course adding to its impurity. It
is impossible that such a state of things should be oth-
erwise than unfavorable to human health, and degtruc-
tive to human life.

But the pure air of the country, and its exceedingly
beautiful scenery had such an excellent effect upon my
health, that I became very partial in this respect, and

42()

SIlirriNO OF NRW YORK CITY.

shall hereafter seize every opportunity of inhaling the
one and heholdin^ the other. The busiest and most
important avocations afford some few snatches of leis-
ure, and these can never be better or more wisely em-
ployed, than in seeking out the beauties of nature in
their native haunts. It is the more easily accomplish-
ed, as a large portion of the year presents a perfect suc-
cession of beauties to the eye of taste, and of enjoy-
ments to a well attuned soul ; and there are few indeed,
who cannot contrive to quit their avocations for a brief
space of time. It was however, with no small delight
that 1 viewed a second time this great theatre of com-
merce, where no less than two thousand froreign ships
arrive annually, together with five thousand coasting
ships in the same length of time. There are also here
a line of steam-packets to Liverpool, besides which
there are line-ships, that sail for Liverpool every five
days, to London every ten days, and to Havre every
eight days. Kegular lines of packets are also establish-
ed to all the chief cities in the United States, the West
Indies, and South America. The steamboat lines to all
the adjacent maritime towns are very numerous.

In viewing the giant power of the steam-vessels and
the recent achievements they have accomplished, we
cannot but feel a certain awe mixed with admiration,
in looking to the future changes which this great mar-
itime agent may affect in the state of the world. The
main object in the busy age in which we live, is to
shorten distance and save time ; for this purpose hills
have been levelled and valleys filled up, canals dug, &
rivers spanned, and the steam engine made in a thous-

II il 5 E b .

4-27

and ways to supply the oflices ol human hands.

Here we behold conspicuously the new era which has
come upon us ; skill, science and enterprise have been
called into activity by the inexhaustible wealth oi* our
country, whose merchants are princes. The distant
conceptions of Watt, and the predictions of Fulton have
been realized. The broad Atlantic wave has been ad-
vantageously navigated by Steam. America and her
mother England have been brought within twelve days
sail of each other, time and space had alike been meas-
urablj' annihilated, by curtailing distance and giving
speed and certainty, which before both time and safety
were at the mercy of the windj.

Here ive behold with pride the steam ships plowing
the briny surge, in spile of wind or wave, like giants
rejoicing at their course, engendering generous deeds
and friendly feelings between the denizens of the old
and new world, to the mutual happiness and prosperi-
ty of both, and it is evident that it heightens the affec-
tions of all, and causes them to become more closely
entwined.

My attention was now drawn to the horses of the
city, which are generally poor and look badly, which
might be said of them all, except perliaps some of the
carriage horses of the more opulent of the city. There
appears to be a great contrast in this respect, between
the large and noble animal of Boston and the lean, rough,
broken-down horse of this city. This however, is not
confined to the city alone, but the northern and east-
ern portion of the State also, has many very indifferent
horses. This fault does not extend to other beasts,

ip'il'

i28

B A T T B II Y .

which all appear to he in a thriving condition. It ap-
pears a little remarkable, to behold in this great thea>
tre of prosperity, so many small, lean, rough, nicked
and bobbed horses, presenting strong indications oi be-
ing refused their due portion of the prosperity of the
country.

On the moring of my departure, I spent an hour at
the Battery, situated at the southern extremity of the
city, containing eleven acres of ground, well shaded
with beautiful trees, where the weeping willows with
their variegated foliage and long flexile twigs, whose
silvery leaves had increased in size and beauty in the
time that intervened on mv tour north and east from
the city. The air was warm, and the rising sun cast
rts brilliant rays in sublime grandeur on the harbour,
which could be delightfully viewed from the Battery,
with all its islands, ships, steamers, forts &c. It is with
no small pride that the stranger views the harbour of
this Great Comi»ercial Emporium of the Western Hem-
isphere, where the chimnies of numerous steam-boats
and the great forest of towering ship-masts, with hun-
dreds of flags fliittering in the breeze, which presents
a scene at once imposing and delightful.

-•-•>'-»-

vTKRSEV tlTY.

i29

CHAPTER X LI.

filTATB 6T MTBW JSltSEY.

Jersey City — Newark — Manufactures — Elizabeth town — Marfihy
Lands — Villafires — New Brunswick — Rutger's College — The-
ological Seminary — Bridge — Dean's Pond — Princeton College
— Shade Trees — Theological Seminary — Remark — Trenton
— State House — State Prison — Delaware and Raritan Canal
— Falls of the Deleware — Manufactures — Sanpink Bridge

Hndson Countt/i The ferry-boat landed us at Jer-
sey city, containing a population of 8073^ situated on
the left bank of tHe Hudson River, just opposite the
city of New York, at the distance of one mile ; that be-
ing the width of the noble Hudson at this place. The
city has quite an active trade for the number of its in-
habitants, it being well situated for commerce^ It h
also connected with Newark by railroad.

Esse36 County. Newark, with a population of 17,-
290 inhabitants, being very delightfully located on the
west bank of the Passaic river, 3 miles from Newark
Bay, is the largest and most importantcity in the State,
being woll built with spacious streets and handsome
houses, many of which are animated with fine, grace-
ful shade trees. The city has an easy communication
with New York, by means of steamboats, it being on-
ly ten miles distant; and the New Jersey and Morris
canal also pass through the city. This place is in a
very flourishing condition, and has considerable com-
merce, though principally noted for its manufacttires,
which are extensive, the capital employed being about
two millions of dollars. Among the articles produced,
may be namc*d carriages^ shoes and boots, cutlery, sad*

430

*IEW BRUNSWICK.

dlcry, jewelry, hats, fornilure &,c. There are here
seventeen large fine churches, three banks and several
valuable libraries. The city v^^as founded in 1666, by
a company from Connecticut, who purchased the site
and some of the surrounding country trom the Indians,
for J£130, twelve blankets, and twelve old muskets.

Elizabethtown, with a population of 2500, is a very
beautiful town, 4 miles from Newark. It containssev-
eral manufactures, mills, &c. It is connected with
Newark, Trenton and Summerville by Railroad, by
which the inhabitants are not slow in profiting.

Middlesex County, This county and that of Essex
contain large bodies of marshy lands. In the latter
county, between the city of Newark and Elizabeth-
town, are large bodies o( swampy flats, chiefly between
the Railroad and the Hudson river. In such places
where they will admit of draining, they are rendered
valuable for grass, and in some places are rendered suf-
ficiently dry for the cultivation of grain and roots; some
of these swamps are redeemed from the water, and so
highly cultivated as to produce the very heaviest crops
of oats and corn. On the railroad to New Brunswick,
are four flourishing villages, Ray way, Metuchin, Free-
mans and Campbells.

New Brunswick, with a population of 8,693, is a
very beautiful city of 800 houses, pleasantly situatedat
the head of sloop navigation on the Raritan river, and
at the termination of the Delaware and Raritan canal.
This city is the depot of the product of the fertile dis-
trict of the Raritan river. The city is located on the
lefl bank of the river, on a very beautiful site, being

r R 1 N C E T N .

431

regularly laid out and well situated for trade, in which
it is engaged very actively. Rutger's College is loca-
ted here, and was founded in 1770, has now a Presi-
dent and ten Professors. The Theological Seminary is
a very flourishing institution, under the direction of the
German Reform Church. The city also contains eight
large handsome churches, two banking houses &c. The
bridge which crosses the Raritan river at this place was
erected at a cost of $86,687, which is a handsome, sub-
stantial structure of considerable length, at no great
height from the water.

Dean's Pond situated 7 miles from the city, on the
Railroad, is an object calculated to arrest the attention
of the stranger, owing in part to its not being situated
in so low a region of country as those numerous mar-
-'^^■B he passed to the north ot New Brunswick. On
. ^ ^ame route is Kingston a pretty little town 4 miles
distant.

Merce?' County, Princeton, with a population of
3055, is pleasantly and beautifully situated on the wes-
tern branch of the Millstone river. It is the seat of
the College of New Jersey, one of the oldest and most
celebrated institutions of the kind in our country, being
founded at Elizabethtown, in 1746, or more than a cen-
tury ago, and removed to Princeton in 1757, It has
thirteen professors and a valuable library of about 12,-
000 volumes. The halls of the College are large, hand-
some, and well built, on a very splendid site, ornamen-
ted with very beautiful shade trees, whose graceful
boughs have a very imposing appearance. The Prince-
ton Theoloojical Seminarv, under the direction of the

1 I

r K E N r o N »

Presbyterians, also possessing fine buildings, located on
a commanding site, and is said to be a very popular
nnd flourishing institution. The town contains some
fine houses, situated on broad, handsome streets, bor-
dered with beautiful avenues of trees.

Princeton is also noted for the great battle of the 3d
of Jan. 1777, when Washington was stealing by night,
from the victorious Cornwallis. It appearson that morn-
ing at sunrise, his retreat being cut off at this place, by
three regiments of British soldiers, who fell with such
fury on his little army as to cause them to waver and
break & when ail seemed lost, when Liberty & her Star
Spangled Banner were drooping and alnriost within the
graspof the victorious Cornwallis, the already dazzling
Star of Washington burst forth in brighter effulgence than
ever, by his snatching Columbia's lovely stripes, & spur-
ring furiously midway between the contending parties,
and with his manly breast turned full on the foe, said to
his countrymen in language more elegant than words,
" Follow Me, " and moved on amid the chaos, while
the thrilling shout of the gallant Mercer brought up
the Americans and who sealed the memory of his no-
ble daring with his life, while hurling the Americans
on the British foe.

Trenton, with a population of 4035, very delight-
fully situated on the east bank of the Delatvare at the low-
er falls, 30 miles abdVe Philadelphia, is the Capital of
the State, and contains a State House, one hundred feet
long, and sixty feet wide, constructed of very beautiful
stone, located on a splendid site. The town is regu-
larly laid out and occupies high and commandin;^ ground,

TRENTON.

4-33

-at an advantageous point,. the Delaware being naviga-
ble to the fell for sloops. The State Prison at tlHs
place, is a strong and elegant structure ; together with
some other public buildings in the town, present qmte
a handsome appearance. There is here a library, es-
tablished as early as 1750, and seven large elegant
churches. The Delaware and Raritan Canal passes
through the town. The falls of the Delaware afford
extensive water-power, which is largely employed in
propelling manufactufing establishments, there being
ten mills aad manufactories just below the falls. The
Delaware is bere crossed by a very splendid bridge,
1100 feet in length, resting oil five very handsome
arches.

TrentoB is celebrated for the complete surprise and
capture of the British and Hessians, by Gen* Washing-
ton, on the morning of the 26th of December, 1776.
While engaged in a Christmas frolic, they were thun-
der-struck on hearing the voice of Columbia's noble
and greatest son, exclaiming to his heroes, while rais-
ing on his stirrups and waving his sword : "There, my
brave friends, there are the enemies of your country ;
and now all I ask of you is just to remember what you
a-re about to fight for. Charge !" This charge wound
up the Christmas ball, and forty-one of the guests were
to bury, and near a thousand had the pleasure of la-
king a New Year's irolic in the city of Philadelphia,
prisoners of war.

Trenton is also famous for the reception of Washing-
ton, on the 21st of April 1789, at the bridge over the
>SanpiBk, a creek running through the eastern side ot
19

1=. ' !

i: 1 1

^34,

3ANriNK BRIDGL'*

the city, across which Washington retreated on (be 1st
of January, 1777, or six days after his capture of the
British and Hessian?. On the east side Cfi this little
creek it is said, he planted his cannon to defend its pas-
sage. In this position Comwallis attacked him, at 4»
o'clock in the evening, and undoubtedly would have
captured him and the whole American army, bad he
taken the advice of Sir William Erskine, who advised
the continuance of the battle, wh:le Corn wallis saw fit
to withdraw his troops when nig it closed in. It was
irom the banks of this sam« little creek, that Washing-
ton stole in the darkness of the night, and next morn-
ing hewed his way through the British regiments at
Princeton, and effected his escape.

Twelve years afterwards^ the bridge over this creek
was chosen by the ladies of Trenton for the reception
oi Washington, while on his way to New York to act
as President of his country. Under their direction,
this bridge was decorated with a triumphal arch with
this inscription in large letters :

DECEMBER 26, 1776.

THE HERO WHO DEFENDED THE MOTHERS,

WILL ALSO PROTECT THE DAUGHTERS.

The hero entered the arch at the south end of the
bridge, amidst the thrilling shouts of thousands. At
the north end of the bridge we are told, were drawn
up several hundred little girls, dressed in snow-white
robes, with their temples adorned with garlands, and
baskets of ilowers in their arms, while behind them
stood long rows of young virgins, and still behind them
their venerable mothers, all of whom, while lino^ing

SI'ATK op rUNNSYLVANlA.

43;*)

the following verse of their ballad, strewed the way

with flowefs befofe him :

*'Virgins fair and matrons grave,
(These, thy conquering arm did save ;)
]3uild for thee triumphal bowers,
Strew ye fair, his way with flowers,
Strew your hcro''s way with flowers.

CHAPTER XLII.

STATG OF PENNSYLVANIA.

Aspect of the State — Country Buildings — Fences — German pop-
ulation — Internal Improvements — Aliens — Towns — Philadel-
phia — Streets — Shade Trees — Old State House — Prospect —
Custom House — Exchange — Order of Architecture — Navy
Yard — Naval Asylum — Alms House — Hospital — Institution
for the Deaf and Dumb — Eastern State Penitentiary — Univer-
sity- — St. Stephen's Church — Christ's Church-Tomb of Frank-
lin — Girard College — Tickets of Admission — Omnibiisses —
Laurel Hill Cemetery — Fairmount Water- Works — Omnibns-
ees — Bridges — Learned Institutions — Markets — Monument of
the Treaty of Penn — Fire Engines — Vulgar Familiarity — In-
tellectual condition of the People.

After crossing the Delaware at Trenton, I found my-
self within the boundary of this State ; and in travel-
ling through the State by the way of Harrisburg, I
found the central part of the Old Keystone State to be
intersected by the various ridges of the Allegany range
of mountains, whose general direction is from southwest
to northeast. The valleys between many of these
ridges are generally of a rich black soil, suited well to
fh« various kinds of grass and grain. Some of the

436

StATE or PENNfei'LVANlA.

mountains admit of cultivation almost to their summits.
No State in the Union perhaps, shows to the traveller
a richer agriculture than the old Keystone.

Mountainous and rolling as these regions are, it is em-
phatically a grain country, raising wheat and other
grains of a superior quality. In a word, it produces
all the productions of the northern and middle States,
and is particularly famous for the size and excellence
of its breeds of draught horses. The State is also no-
ted for its immense coal beds, which are of two kinds,
the anthracite, (perhaps better known as Lehigh coal,)
and the bituminous coal, which are distinct in their
qualities.

The inhabitants of this famous old commonwealth,
are distinguished for their habits of order, industry and
frugality. The passing stranger, as he traverses the
State, is struck with the noble roads and public works,
with the well cultivated fields, all beautifully laid out
and enclosed with a handsome straight fence, and also
ihtiit commodious and durable stone houses and still
krger stone barns, with the farm buildings ornamented
with very lofly and beautiful shade trees. An agri-
cultural country, alike charming and rich spreads un-
der his eye.

The State of Pennsylvania, perhaps labors under the
disadvantage of being jointly occupied by two races,
those of British and those of German extraction. The
latter I observed during my short sojourn in the State,
to be to all appearances, industrious and saving, very
averse to speculation, but certainly wanting in that hab-
it of identifying themselves with the acts of their gov-

I'M '

GERMANS or rKXNSVLVAN'I A.

frnmcnt, which. can alone give to the electors under a
representative system, a due sense of responsibility. — -
Some of them denounce in the strongest terms, the
great system of internal improvement carried on by
their State, by talking of it as of a commercial project
which has failed, and they were reaping few or no ad-
vantages from the enormous expenditure of their gov-
ernment. — Because, it is contended, that such cheap
and rapid means of locomotion are injurious, by facili-
tating migrations to the w«st, and preventing a country
with a sparse population, from filling up. For this rea-
son, their lands had not risen in value as they ought ;to
have done. They protested that they had always been
opposed to lailways and canals, and that for every use-
ful line adopted, there was sure to be anotner unne-
cessary canal or railway made, in consequence ol log-
rolling in the legislature.

The representatives they say, of each section of the
country, would only consent to vote money if they
could obtain a promise that an equal sum be laid out in
their own district, and to this end, some new and u.n-
called for scheme had to be invented. This kind of
jobbing these Germans compare to log-rolling in the
back settlements, where the thinly scattered inhabitants
assemble and run up a log-cabin in a single day for the
nev> comer, receiving in their turn, some correspond-
ing service whenever the union of numbers is requi-
red. There may also be noticed some complaint against
that multitude of aliens, who have recently been ad-
mitted to take part in the elections, by shortening the
term of years required for naturalization, ft i^ said

ii!

ii.m '

< i

438

A L 1 C N i^ .

that owing to the neglect of registration, many alieny
vote iraudulently, and otliera several times over at the
same poll in various disguises.

This is a matter sometimes dwelt upon with bitter-
ness by some, while the picture drawn by others is of-
ten so highly coloured as to be very amusing, and up-
on the whole there appears to be no great alTection for
that large number of aliens, who have of late years been
invested with electoral rights, and candidates for pla-
ces m the magistracy or the legislature. To the sym-
pathies of this ignorant mass, the flattery of the dema-
gogue is very frequently directed. This temptation is
too strong to be resisted, for small as may be their num-
bers when compared with the native voters, they often
turn the scale in an election where the great constitu-
tional parties are nearly balanced. Therefore, it is
here a very easy matter to draw a discouraging pic-
tare of the dangers of universal suftra^jje.

Bucks county. This famous old county is situated
in the angle ol the Delaware, where that noble river
bends its course from southeast to southwest, forming
an angle of about ninety degrees, a few miles below
Trenton. The southeast end of this county is all that
is lovely in agriculture ; the soil, to all appearances, is
of the most admirable quality. On the Trenton and
Philadelphia railroad are Morrisville, Tullytown, Bris-
tol and Taconey, each of which are very flourishing
towns. From Taconey a steamboat carried us down
the Delaware 8 miles to Philadelphia.

Philadelphia, with a population of 228,690, is very
beautifully situated in a county at the same name^ on a

PtllLADtLPHlA*

439

fiat peninsula between the Delaware an J Schuylkill
rivers, about five miles above their junction, in the prin-
cipal city in the State, and has the merit of being the
most regularly laid out and the wwst beautifully built
city in the world. It yields to none in the Union in
weahh, industry and the intelligence of its citizens, —
The streets of the city are broad and straight, crossing
each other at right angles, thereby dividing the city in-
to numerous blocks or squares, some of which have
been reserved for public walks, being ornamented with
fine shade trees and flowering shrubbery. The dwel-
ling-houses are neat and commodious, and the public
buildings are generally constructed of white marble. —
The city is noted for several events in our history,
such as Penn*s treaty with the Indians, the assembling
of the first Congress, in 1774, and being occupied by
the British in the year 1777, &c.

Objects of attraction. The Old State House, e-
rected as early as 1735, contains that renowned old
hall, where the Congress sat which declared our na-
tional independence, and also the Convention which
formed the Constitution of the United States. Tickets
of admission to the steeple may be procured at the May-
or's office, between the hours of 9 A- M. and 2 P. M.
The superintendent of the building is always on duty.
A ramble through this venerable old building is truly
interesting, and the view from the steeple is delightful.

The Custom House, formerly the United States Bank
built after the model of the Parthenon, at Athens, was
finished in 1824. It is 87 feet on the front and 160
feet deep ; erected at a cost of $500,000.

Hi)

Mr:Rv;<IANT^S KXiniANfiK'.

The United States Mint, eatablislied in 1791, and re-f
moved to the present beautiful white marble edifice in
1830. Visitors are admitted every day before V2 M.
except Saturday and Sunday.

The Merchant's Exchange, is situated at the corner
of South Third and Walnut streets, and on the angle
formed by the intefsectifon of Dock wifth Walnut and
Third str^e^ts/ This splendid structure was built in
1834-, after the model of the Choragic Monument^ at
Athens, called by modern Athenians the Lantern of
Demosthenes } a monument erected 330 years before
Christ.

This Exchange is constructed entirely of marble, in
the form of a rectangular parallelogram, ninety-five
feet front on Third street, by one hundred and fifty on
Walnut street. On Dock street however, is a semi-
circular projection, ornamented from the top of the*
basement story^ with six beautiful Corinthian columns,
with handsome capitals. This splendid portico is of
the height of two stories, and communicates with the
Exchange room by means of nine separate windows,
which may be tised as doorways. This semi-rotancio
K seventy-two feet in diameter in the basement, on ei-
ther side of which, a flight of ^one steps leads likewise
to the main room of the edifice from Dock street. On
the side of the same street, ccmimences a hall which
passes through the centre of the building to Third
street, and another likewise communicates with this
from the north side.

On the right or north side of this hall, is the Post
Office, seventy-four feet by thirty^six, and on the left

rooms 01

^UBU^ nUiLDINOM.

44.1

tite several insurance oHicos and hanks, and n.Uu thtf
session-room of the Chamber of Commerce. On each
side of this great hall are a flight of stairs, which as-
cend to the second floor. On this floor is the Exchange
room, situated at the east front of the building, extend-
ing across the whole length of the building, and is said
to occupy an area of 3300 superficial feet. A very
beautiful entrance leads from the head of the stairs in*
to this apartment. The ceiling extends to the roof, is
of the form of a dome and supported by several marble
columns. Its panels are or lamented wi^h splendid
fresco paintings, representing con»merco, wealth, lib-
erty, &c., all beautifully executed, ap' earing to have
as striking a relief as sculptured v >rk. ^her^ are
rooms on the right side of this hall, whic*^ u'e appro-
priated for the meetings of stockhoHers, orokers. Stc.
The attic story is fifteen feet high, '^or^ainssix rooms,
occupied by library associations, artists, &c.

The front on Third street, contains a sort of piazza,
let into the main wall, with several pillars constructed
of marble, rising from the top of the basement to the
roof. The roof of the structure is oval, and surmount-
ed by a circular lantern that rises forty feet. This ed-
ifice is one of the most imoosing for architectural dis-
play, of which the city Cu : ^^oast.

The United States Navy Yard, located on Front

street, contains about iburteen acres of ground; but

ships of war of thc:: largest class cannot ascend to the

city with the whole of their armament. The Naval

Asylum is a handsome structure of marble, with a front

of 385 feet, being capable of accommodating four hun-
19*

PENITSNTIARY.

dred men, erected at a cost of three hundred thousand
dollars.

The Alms House, situated on the west bank of the
Schuylkill, consists of four distinct buildings, with four
hundred rooms. The Pennsylvania Hospital, founded
in 1750, and commenced five years afterwards and on-
ly finished in 1804, is beautifully situated on Pine
street. In front of it there is a bronzed lead statue of
William Penn. The Institution for the Deaf ^ Dumb
established in 1820, and the Orphan Asylum, egtabr
lished in 1814, are worthy charities.

The Eastern State Penitentiary is situated on one of
the most elevated, airy and delightful sites in the vi-
cinity of Philadelphia, and is said to be one of the lar-
gest buildings in the United States, occupying ten a-
cres of ground. Tickets of admission may be obtaiuf^d
from any of the inspectors, viz: M. L. Sevan, 349,
Arch street; John Bacon, 74, South Third or il7,jRace
,8treet ; Thomas Bradford, 7, Sansom street ; Robert Pat-
terson, 182, Market street ; or Recorder Vaux, South
Sixth street.

The principal front of this great structure is six hun-
dred and seventy feet in length, and rej,oses on a ter-
race, which from the inequalities of the ground, varies
from three to nine feet in height. The bwem^nt or
belting course, which is ten feet high^ is scarpet^^ and
extends uniformly the whole length. This front is
composed of large blocks of hewn and squared gi^ite.
Near the gate of entrance are situated three tpwers;
there are also four others situated on the^i^gles .ot a
wall thirty feet high, enclosing an areii of fitXihuiKiFed

P E N I T R N T I A n Y .

4.4.3

Stnd forty leel sqnare. From these towws the whole
establishment can be overlooked. The great gateway,
in the centre of this enormous wall, forms a conspicu-
ous feature. It is twenty-seven feet high and fifteen
feet wide, and is filled by a massive wrought iron port-
cullis, and double oaken gates, studded with projecting
iron rivets the whole length, and is said to weigh sev-
eral tons.

On each side of this entrance are enormous solid but-
tresses, diminishing in offsets, and terminating in pin-
nacles. A lofty octangular tower, 80 feet high, con-
taining an alarm-bell and clock, surmounts this entrance
and also forms a picturesque feature. On each side of
this, are the apartments of the warden, keepers and do-
mestics, whose walls are pierced with small, blank
pointed windows, and are surmounted by a parapet.

The centre building is two hundred feet in length,
and consists of two projecting massive square towers,
fifty feet high, crowned by projecting embattled para-
pets; supported by pointed arches, resting on corbels or
brackets. The pointed windows in these towers are
very lofty and narrow, and contribute in a high degree
to the picturesque appearance presented by them.

The walls of the building are plaistered and neatly
white-washed, the cells are eleven feet long and eight
ieet wide. At the extremity of the cell, is a doorway
containing two doors, one of lattice work or grating,
to admit the air and secure the prisoner, the other com-
posed of planks, to exclude the air if required. This
door leads to a yard, eighteen feet long and eight feet
wide. In these cells the prisoners are confined sepa-

I
1 I

! i

TOMB OF FiiANthi^,

lately. They see the keepers, chaplain, and occasion^
al visiters, b}' which the rio"our of their solitude is mit-
igated. They are taught to read, and have numerous
occupations. The vi^hole establishment has the ap-
pearance of being admirably inanaged^

The University of Pennsylvania, situated on Ninth
street, Was founded in 1791 j the Medical department
of which is said to be one of the most distinguished in
the United States.

Among the churches, the most noted is St. Stephen'^,
in Tenth street, which is 102 feet long, 50 feet wide
and of the Gothic order of architecture. Christ's church
erected in 1691, is one of the oldest churches in the
city. It has a spire 196 feet high. In the burial
ground of this church, lie the remains of Dr. Franklin
and wife, whose tomb is found in the west corner, near
Arch street, by a plain marble slab, with no other in-
scriptions than his name and that of his wife, and the
time of their deaths.

St. John's church, is another very splendid Gothic
edifice, situated on Thirteenth street. In addition to
these, there are one hundred and thirty-eight other
large and elegant churches, with three large and splen-
did synagogues. Among the worshippers in these nu-
merous churches, may be found all the different per-
suasions exib.ing in our land, even to the Deist. It
was here I first learned that the Deists were numerous
enongh to have churches.

The Girard College, founded by Stephen Girard, for
the education of orphans, is situated on a high and cbm-
inandin»T site, formerly known >is Rel Hall, one mile

GIRARD COLLEGE

445

from the city. It consists of a main building, one hun*
dred and sixty feet by two hundred and eighteen feet,
and two others, each fifty-two by one hundred and
twenty-five feet. They are very much celebrated fot*
their architectural beauty, being constructed of white
marble, with a colonnade ox" Grecian Corinthian col-
umns entirely surrounding them, standing on a marble
platform, which is gained by eleven steps. The floors
are very beautifully tessellated, and the building has a
grand and imposing appearance, being covered with
marble tiles, every superior tile overlapping the one
below it six inches. Among the many devices which
adorn the interior of this superb structure, may be na-
med the statue of Mr. Girard, by Gevelot, which is
wrought in a masterly style, of an excellent quality of
marble. This great college was erected at a cost of o-
ver one million two hundred thousand dollars. By the
will of Mr. Girard, the clergy are excluded from visi-
ting this great college. Tickets of admission to the
college, now in full operation, may be obtained of J.
R, Chandler, Esq., President, 105, North Tenth street,
and Isaac Elliott, 81, Chestnut street, or W. G. Duan,
138, Walnut street. Omnibusses pass through Chest-
nut, Tenth, Poplar and Ridge Road streets, and leave
the Exchange every eight minutes for the college, and
continue about 2 miles to Laurel Hill Cemetery, to
which place tickets of admission may be had of any of
the managers, among whom may be named, Frederick
Brown, Esq., corner of Chestnut and Fifth streets. —
This Cemetery is considered the mos* beautiful m the
State of Pennsylvania. There are here many of the

';s •

FATRMOUNT WATER-WORKS.

most splendid monuments, and an elegant piece ol
sculpture, by Thom, of Old Mortality.

The Fairmount Water- Works, constructed at a cosi
of about $450,000, presents an eminent combination of
elegance and utility. They occupy thirty acres of
ground, most ot which is a hill, one hundred feet high.
There are four reservoirs, having a capacity of over
twenty millions of gallons. The grounds are adorned
with beautiful walks and shade trees. The annual ex-
pense of this great work is about forty thousand dollars.
The grounds at the foot of the hill, near the machine-
ry which forces up the water, are very beautifully or-
namented with shade trees of the choicest species. —
There are here several very beautiful cisterns or ba-
sins, constructed of white marble, one of which con-
tains a female statue, standing on a pedestal placed in
the centre of the basin, holding in her arms a marble
swan, the water ascending from the mouth of the swan
to the height of fifteen or eighteen feet. The other ba-
sin or cistern contains a pedestal, on which is placed
the statue of a child sitting on a fish, looking up at the
water as it asnends from the mouth of the fish. Omni-
busses for this place connect with steamboats to Laurel
Hill, Schuylkill Fills and Manj^unk, le?ve the Ex-
change every eight minutes. One line passes through
Third, Chestnut and Broad streets, another through
Third, Arch, Schuylkill, Fifth and Vine streets, all of
which arrive at the Water- Works every eight minutes.
Fare for each passenger 6i cents.

Tift permanent bridge over the Schuylkill, built in
1798, is one thousand three hundred feet in length,

.LEARNED INSTITUTIONS.

447

constructed at a cost of three hundred thousand dollars.
The wire suspension bridge, at Fairmount, built in
1842, at a cost of fifty-five thousand dollars, is remark-
able for its light, elevated and beautiful appearance.

The learned institutions of Philadelphia are very dis-
tinguished, among which may be named the Ameri-
can Philosophical Society, the Academy of Natural
Sciences, the Pennsylvania Historical Society, and the
Franklin Institute ; all of which have published some
valuable volumes. The City Library is of itself a cu-
riosity, consisting of no less than 53,000 volumes. —
The city also contains an Academy of Fine Arts. The
markets of Philadelphia are celebrated for the great va-
riety of products exhibited, as also for their cleanli-
ness and extent. The manufactures of the city are va-
rious and extensive ; her foreign commerce is consider-
able; her inland commerce is also very extensive, and
said to be rapidly increasing in conseqnence of the fa-
cilities afforded by the numerous canals and railroads
which centre here, affording an easy communication
with all sections of the State and with the great west-
ern valle v.

The next object of interest is the Monument of the
great treaty of Penn. This consists of a simple block
of mjarble in the form of a cone. This is situated on
the spot where stood the great Elm tree, upon the bank
of the Delaware, at Shackamaxon, under whose wide-
spread branches William Penn effected a treaty with
the Indians ; a compact, which for its justice and be-
nevolence, has conferred immortal honor upon the
founder of Philadelphia. It is said that during the rev-

I i

m^>""-

44d

M0NUM8NT OP THE tREnTY Of PENN.

olutionary war, in 1775, when the British army had
possession of the city and surrounding district, when
fire-wood became scarce, the British commander, Gen-
eral Simcoe, from a regard which he entertained for
the character of William Penn, and the interest which
he took in the history connected with the tree, order-
ed a guard of soldiefs to protect it from the axe»

This stately tree was uprooted by a storm in 1810,
when the trunk measured twenty-four feet in circum-
ierence. The Penn Society, in order to preserve a
knowledge of the spot where the elm tree stood, have
caused this simple block of marble to be placed there^
containing the following inscriptions :

ON THE NORTH. ON THE WfiST.

Treaty ground of William Penn Placed by the Jt*eii7*. Society ^
Jlvd the Indian nativeSf 1682. Jt. D. 1827, to mark the tile of

UNBROKEN FAITH. THE GREAT ELM TREE.

ON THE SOUTH,

William penn,
BORN 1564,
DIED 1718.

ON THE EAST.

PENNSYLVANIA FOUNDED.

1681,

BY DEEDS OF PEACE.

The last objects I deemed worthy of notice^ were
the fire engines, during my stay in the city there be-
ing no less than three alarms of fire. Whether these
were real or false, I did not learn, but the noise of the
firemen was tremendous. At the head of the proces-
sion came a runner, blowing a horn with a deep un-
earthly sound ) next came a long team of men, (for no
horses are employed,) drawing a strong rope to which
the ponderous engine is attached, with a large bell at
the top, ringing all the way; next followed € mob,

Vl/LOAR FAMIIJARITV.

44d

Some with lanterns, others with torches, while some
would be shouting at the top of their lungs ; and be-
fore they were hall out of hearing, another engine fol-
lowed, attended with a like escort, the whole affair re-
sembling a vision more than real lite. It is however,
no sham, for these yoting men are ready to risk their
lives in extinguishing a fire ; and as an apology for
their disturbing Che peace of the city when there was
no cause, we were told that these young firemen re-
quired excitement.

On entering on my tour, I had made up my mind
that as a matter of course, I would fall in now and then
with free and easy people. I am bound however to
say, that in the only glaring instances ol vulgar lamil-
iarity which I experienced during the whole of my
tour, which were but few, I found out that the offend-
ers had crossed the Atlantic only eight or ten yean
before, and had risen rapidly from an humble station.
This and other things confirmed my belief, that what-
ever good breeding existed here in the middle classes,
could certainly not be of foreign importation. There-
fore, the Europeans and John Bull in particular, when
out of humour with the manners of the Americans, is
often unconsciously beholding his own image in the
mirror, or comparing one class of society in the United
States with another of his own country, which ought
from superior affluence and leisure, to exhibit a higher,
standard of refinement and intelligence.

Hovi'ever, I might say of this city as of some others
in the middle and Eastern States, in spite of the con-
stant influx of uneducated and pennyless adventurers

M !

i j

fr ^\

450

INCLINED FLAKE.

from Europe, I believe it would be impossible to find
a like number of cities, with as many inhabitants in
any other region of the globe, whose average moral,
social and intellectual condition stand so high.

CHAPTER XLII I.

Inclined Plane — Norristown — Bridge — JManufactures Valley

Forge — Anecdote of Baron Steuben — Villages — Reading —
German Language — Mountain Gorge — Court House — Man-
ufactures Bridges Union Canal Mountain Scenery

Towns — Pottaville Coal Trade — Manufactures Lehigh

Coal — Mountains — Forests Sweet Fern Lehigh Summit

Mine — Railroad — Mules — 1 nteresting Scenery Towns

Harrisburg — Streets — Prospect — State House — Panoramic
View — Court House — Susquehanna River — Sublime Scenery
— Governor Shunk — Political Excitement — Cumberland Val-
ley — Carlisle — Dickinson College — Streets — Charabersburg —
Court House — Manufactures.

Chester County, — On my way from Philadelphia to
the coal regions, the first object ol interest was the In-
clined Plane, about 4 miles from Philadelphia, imme-
diately on the lelt bank of the Schuylkill. At this
place, the railroad track has an elevation of eighty-
eight feet in the distance of five-eighths of a mile. The
cars are drawn up by means of a large and powerful
jcope, attached to a stationary engine at the top of the
Plane. The track is entirely straight, and the rope is
guided by means of large puUies placed in the ends of
short posts of about a foot in length ; these being plant-
ed about forty feet apart, in the centre between the

N O R R I 5 T O W N .

451

tracks. The cars start suddenly, although drawn by a
rope five-eighths ol a mile in length. So soon as they
arrive at the top of the Plain, an engine being in read-
iness, they proceed with a loss ol very lew minutes
time.

On the Philadelphia and Reading Railroad are the
towns ol Manayunk, Spring Mill and Norristown,
which contains a population of 3750, situated on the
Schuylkill River, 17 miles from Philadelphia. There
is here a bridge over the river, eight hundred feet in
length, erected at a cost of thirty-one thousand two
hundred dollars. The town contains a Courthouse,
several fine Churches and a considerable Library. —
There are also here some manufactures ; the capital in-
vested is about three hundred and fitly thousand dol-
lars. Port Kennedy, about three miles farther up the
river, is a place well situated and in a flourishing con-
dition.

Valley Forge, situated 23 miles from Philadelphia,
is a place memorable for the winter quarters and suffer-
ings of the American army, during the dreadful win-
ter of 1777, and for the changes introduced into the
army by the celebrated Baron Steuben, Aid-de-camp
to the King of Prussia ; a noble foreigner, high in hon-
or ank rank, who hastened from his home to share our
struggles and our sufferings, where he found only a
few thousand famished, half-naked men, looking more
like beggars than soldiers ; cooped up in miserable log
huts, dragging out a desolate ti^inter amid straw. —
With this poor band of patriots reduced to a ragged
horde, with scarcely the energy to struggle for self.

452

n B A I> 1 N o .

preservation, Steuben entered on his work of instruct-
ing both officers and noen, which it is said, he did with
all the sympathies of his noble nature roused in our
behalf. It is said his ignorance of our language crip-
pled him at first very much, while the awkwardness
of our militia, who, gathered as they wefe from every
quarter, scarcely knew the manual exercise, irritated
him beyond measure. They could not execute the
simplest mancBuvre correctly, and SteubeDj who was a
oholeric man, though possessed of a soul full of gene-
rosity and the kindest feelings of human nature, would
swear terribly at their mistakes, and when be had ex-
hausted all the epithets of which he was master, would
call on his aid and ask him to curse in his stead ! Still
the soldiers loved him, for he \ym mindful of their suf-
ferings, and often his manly form \ya» seen stooping
through the doors of their hovels, to minister to their
wants and relieve their distresses.

Still farther up, the Schuylkill are Phcenixville, Roy-
er's Ford and Pottstown. The latter contains a popu-
lation of 722, and is situated in a fertile region of coun-
try, 40 miles up the Schuylkill from Philadelphia. —
All these are flourishing villages, surrounded by the
fertile lands of the Sjchuylkill..

Berks County. Reading, with a population of 8,-
410, is very beautifully situated on the east bank of
the Schuylkill, 50 miles northwest of Philadelphia. —
The town was regularly and handsomely laid out in
1784, by Thomas and Richard Penn, governors and
proprietors of the province. It was originally settled
by Germans, and seveial newspapers are still printed

R E A D I N' O .

453

in the town in that language, which is also chiefly spo-
ken in the town and the surrounding regions, as well
ftfl preached in a large portion of the churches, though
English is generally understood. The town is situated
at the base of the most eastern of the great parallel
rid^s >Vhich constitute the Alleghany chain of moun-
tains. Here is a great transverse gorge, which gives a
passage to the Schuylkill river, through which it flows
in sublime grandeur. The town contains a Courthouse,
two hundred by two hundred and twenty feet deep, e-
rected at a cost of fifty-nine thousand dollars; three
banks, three public libraries, twelve churches and some
manufactures. Reading h particularly famous for wool
hats, as it is said that more than fitly thousand dozen
wool hats have been manufactured here in a year, for
the southern and western markets. There are also
here a number of nail factories. Two handsome bride:-
es add to the scenery, each of which is six hundred feet
in length ; and the one over the Schuylkill was erect-
ed at a cost of sixty thousand dollars. The Union ca-
nal terminates here, by which the town is connected
with HarrisbuTg.

Up the Schuylkill from Reading, arc Althouses,
Mohrsville and Hamburg. The mountains northwest
of Reading, afford picturesque and romantic scenery.
No traveller can fail to remark the long and uniform
parallel ridges, with intervening valleys, like so many
gigantic wrinkles and furrows, which mark the geo-
graphical outline of this region. The long and narrow
ridges rarely rising more than 2000 feet above the val-
leys, and usually not more than half that height, are

J I

454

COAl. RKCI0N8.

broken here and there by transverse fissures, which
give passage to rivers, much the same as that at Har*
per's-Ferry, near the lower region of the great Valley.

Schuylkill County, — Port Clinton, situated on the
Schuylkill, is quite a lively place. Here stages leave
on the arrival of the cars daily, (except Sundays,) for
Tamaqua, Mauch Chunk and Wilkesboro. About eight
miles from Port Clinton, is Orwigsburg, the county
town. There is here a fine Courthouse and other
county bildings. Between this and Pottsville are Au-
burn and Schuylkill Haven.

Pottsville, w*ith a population of 4340, is situated in
a wild district on the Schuylkill, in the midst of the
coal regions. It contains many handsome dwellings,
where in 1824, there were only five houses. This
place is chiefly celebrated for its immense coal trade,
being the Anthracite, perhaps more commonly known
as Lehigh coal, whose burning is not attended with
that disagreeable smell and smoke which is always ex-
perienced by the use of bituminous coal.

Here I was agreeably surprised to see a flourishing
manufacturing town, with tall chimneys of numerous
furnaces, burning night and day, yet quite free from
smoke. Leaving this clear atmosphere and going down
into one of the mines, it was a no less pleasing novelty
to find that I could handle the coal without soiling my
fingers. Great indeed was the contrast between this
and other towns using these coal and those using the
bituminous coal of Nova Scotia, to the use of which is
coupled the penalty ol living constantly in a dark at-
mosphere of smoke, which destroys the furniture, drew

LtniLiU SUMMIT MINC.

455

and gardens, blackens the buildings, and renders clean*
linesH impossible.

The general effect of the long unbroken summits of
the ridges of the Allegany Mountains is picturesque,
and the jcenery is beautiful. The slopes as well as the
summits of the ridges are densely covered with wood 5
under the trees the ground is covered with an ever-
green, called Sweet Fern, the leaves of which have a
very agreeable odor, resembling that of the bog-myrtle,
but a little fainter.

Among the most remarkable of these celebrated coal
mines, is the Lehigh Summit Mine, to which a rail-
road is constructed, having a gentle ascent for nine
miles. Here are sixty mules employed to draw up
the empty cars every day. In the evening, the mules
themselves are sent down standing four abreast, and
feeding out of mangers all the way, as the cars are
impelled by their own weight, at the rate of about fif-
teen miles an hour, which presents a scene truly inter-
estins when viewed from some eminence.

The scene is no less interesting to see them start in
the morning. They form a very long train of wag-
gons, among which are the same cars that are to carry
them back ; and I was told, that so completely do they
acquire the notion that it is their business through life
to pull weights up hill and ride down at their ease,
that if any of them are afterwards taken away from
the mine and set to other occupations, they willingly
drag heavy loads up steep ascents, but obstinately re-
fuse to pull any vehicle down hill, coming to a dead
halt at the commencement of the slightest slope.

456

TOWNS.

The little car for passengers clegcends the whole nin<s
miles impelled by the weight of the persons in it. —
This may go at the rate of twenty miles an hour, with-
out the least danger of an accident ; a man sitting in
front checking the speed as occa«ion may require, and
oiling the wheels without stoppmg. The burden cars
are manrged in a similar way.

In some of these celebrated coal mines may be seen
some beautiful coal seams, which appear very smooth
and glittering. In one ol these mines may be seen no
less than thirteen seams, several ct which are very
thick ; in some may be found white grit and pebbles
of quartz, about the size of a hen's egg. These great
coal regions, to all appearances, possess treasures inex-
haustible. Vast quantities of coal have been taken
from this district^ and enough yet remains for ages.—
The stranger views the scene here presented with no
small delight, not only the mines and the miners, but
also th3 wild and sublime character of the surrounding
regions.

At Pottsville, we. took stage for Harrisburg, the cap-
ital of the State, situated at a distance of 69 miles,' —
This part of our route contained good roads for moun-
tain roads, though being almost one continued ascent
and descent, with mountain scenery of the most wild
and romantic character, being hill^, ravines and moun-
tains, with few settlements till ws arrived at the town
of East Hanover, having a population of 2461, situated
20 miles from Harrisburg, in Dauphin county, a town
containing some fine dwellings and several handsome
streets^ being located in a fertile district, highly culti*

Mitcd-
Ter, an(
found S
hanna,

Harr
ry beau
lianna r
is regiili
nament(
occupie
ing a dc
country
The Sta
very eli
long am
one of t
old Key
tains a (
the nec(
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for foot
This gre
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dollars.

The I
serves a
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either fr

«A11RI5BI>RG-.

457

\ated- Within 5 miles of this place is West Haiio-
Ter, another handsome town, 7 miles from which we
found Singlestown, situated 8 miles from the Susque-
hanna, at which we soon afterwards arrived.

Harrisburg, containing a population of 5,980, is ve-
ry beautifully situated on the east bank of the Susque-
hanna river, and is the Capital of the State. The town
is regularly laid out and well built ; the streets are or-
namented with very beautiful shade trees. The site
occupied by the town is high and commanding, hav-
ing a delightful prospect of the river and surrounding
country, which is fertile and delightful in the extreme.
The State-House is located on a pleasant site, and is a
very elegant structure, one hundred and eighty feet
long and eighty feet deep ; the cupola of which, affords
one of the most delightful panoramic views that the
old Keystone State can produce. The town also con-
tains a Court-House, a very handsome structure, with
the necessary county buildings, and a number of fine
churches. There is here a bridge over the Susquehan-
na, two thousand eight hundred and eighty-six feet
long, which contains two tracks for wagons, and two
for foot passengers, and on the top a track for the cars.
This great structure is built of wood, supported by a
number of stone piers. The whole cost of construct-
ing this bridge was one hundred and fifty-five thousand
dollars.

The noble Susquehanna presents a scene which de-
serves all the praise that can possibly be lavished up-
«n it, especially when viewed at the close of the day»

ftither from a window in th» bridge, or the hold banjt
20

t !

i5S

SCEMRY or THE SLSQUEHANM.

between the town and the river, where the scen^ en-
joyed is exquisitely rich and attractive. The quiel
stream, as it goes shining down to the ocean, is full of
loveliness, and all upon it or near it, partakes of itt
character. In looking westward, the sight enjoyed i»
imposing in the extreme : there is no change comes o-
ver the beauties — they are immortal — they are without
mutation. In the bosom of the broad river, glowing
with the golden beams of the retiring sun, sat the isl-
ands that break the unity of the glittering stream, and
augment its beauties.

So rich, so full was the sunlight upon the river, thai
these islands seemed to be floatinor in the groro-eous
light. Some shot out prominent angles into the wa-
ter, and presented salient points to break the uniformi-
ty, white others sat swan-like down, their rounded ed-
ges touching the stream, as if they had been dressed by
art to present the perfection of symmetry. The dark
green of the shrubbery that sprung up in the moisture
of the islands, was mingled with the golden rays of the
«un, and here and there the gentle current, by passing;
over some obstructing object, broke into a ripple, that
danced like liquid gold in the sunlight.

Thus after a heavy shower of rain, when the sun
was setting in all the brightness of its beauties, I sal
absorbed in the scene until it began to drop below the
hills, and the warmth of the coloring upon the water,
was yielding to the neutral and colder tints of evening ;
but upward along the sides of the hill, the georgeous-
ness of the sunlight was in its fulness. Tliat glorious
sunset on the islands and waters of the noble Susque-

I^olitical excitement.

463

kanna, cannot soon fade from my memory, — as it wai
the richest and loveliest scene I witnessed during my
short sojourn in the old Keystone Commonwealth ; a
sce'ie 10 which frequency ot enjoyment in my opinion
can brin^ no satiety ; and he who sits down to such a
sublime soenej finds the impressions of unfriendly as-
sociation pasiiino- away, the resolutions of revenge which
unprovoked rudeness excited, melting into the better
determinations of the heurt, and all the biiterness and
animosity which unchastened pride encourages, are
neutralized and lost iii the deep emotionsot'love which,
such a view of God's works, and such a sense of man's
enjoyment necessaril}^ promote.;

The next morning I went in company with my host
to the residence of the Governor, who was on the point
of death. It was with sad emotions that the many
visiiors in the room gazed upon the venerable, but de*
chning form of Governor Shunk, who in his strength
and health had wielded the helm of their government
with a masterly skill, to the satisfaction of a large ma-
jority.

In the evening about dusk, I witnessed a political
excitement. This parade perambulated the streets,
headed by a band of music, and a man carrying trans*
parancies with lights in them, in which the names of
the candidates and their principles were conspicuously
inscribed, Oecasionallv a man called oul with asten-
torian voice, "Principles, the whole principles and no-
thing but principles," which was followed by a loud
English huzzah, while at intervals a single blow was
struck on a great drum, as if to imitate the firing of a

460

CUMBERLAND VALLET.

gun, after "which they repaired to the Court-House,
where there was a discussion.

Cumberland County. After crossing the Susque-
hanna, we entered the celebrated Cumberland Valley,
the garden-spot of the State, presenting all that is de-
lightful in agriculture. A few hours travel brought us
to Carlisle, containing a population of 4351, situated
on a commanding and beautiful eminence, possessing
all that is lovely, being the most beautiful site for an
inland town of any I seen during my tour. It is the
seat of Dickinson College, the halls oi which are the
most splendid stone structures, adorned with very grace-
ful trees. The town contains many other beautiful
buildings situated on broad and handsome streets, bor-
dered v/ith avenues of shade trees. On our route to
Chambersburg, we stopped at New Ville and Shippens-
burg, two very beautiful towns of fifteen hundred in-
habitants, situated in the midst of the valley.

Franklm County. Chambersburg, with a popula-
tioi^ of 4030, is a very beautiful town, situated in the
handsome and fertile valley of the northeastern branch
of the Conecocheague river, being only a continuation
of the admirable soil of the Cumberland Valley. The
town contains a Court-House, which cost fifty thous-
and dollars. Tr»ere bra here some other public build-
ings belonging to the county. In the vicinity of the
town is an excellent water-power, where are located
several manufactures. The town is regularly built,
and contains eight fine churches. Afler leaving the
town, two hours travel through a splendid region,
brought ug to the Maryland line.

SiUMU^ifeM

^ui)i.\u or Tin: iiAi\ks.

401

Id-
hc
ted

ilt,
the

Ollt

CHAPTER XLIV.

STATE or MARYLAND.

Deep Cut— Sliding of the banks — Dirt cars — Hagerstown — Stage
Coach — Williamsport — Conecochea|ruo river — Aqueduct— Po-
tomac river — Arrival at VVuichester — General course ot' tlio
Route — Aspect of the Route — Review ol tiie Middio and
Eastern States.

Washington County. On our arrival at the Deep
Cut, north of Hagerstown, we found the railroad track
entirely clogged up with huge rocks and earth, which
had slid down that morning, which was caused by the
rain which fell in torrents durino; the ni^ht. which had
SO thoroughly softened the banks as to cause them to
slide in great masses, which could not be removed till
the arrival of the cars, although twelve or fifteen men
were eno;ao;ed in doina; so. On the south end of this

CD CJ O

cut several dirt cars were reserved by the workmen,
for the purpose of conveying the passengers to Hagers-
town, three or four miles distant.

The passengers had to leave the train on its arrival,
and v/ade through mud and water and climb the huge
rocks, which had slid down into the track, so that we
might gain the opposite end of the cut. As we enter-
ed this muddy gap, I overheard some young ladies ex-
claim, "well, we are in a pretty fix." Woids which
I olten heard used, and have known myself to use sim-
ilar words. On this occasion however, the word fix
sounded so bad to my ear, that I had curiosity enough
to note it. This at once struck me the application of
the word //t muM be of Hibernian orijj-in, as an Irish

^glli■'^'■«^ li!l»u»,.. ,.

4G!J

H A r, K n S T O W K.

geiilleman, King Corney, in Miss Edgeworth's story of
Onriand, says, "IMl fix him and his wounds." The
substantive "fix" is certainly in some degree vulgar;
Init the verb is used in New England by well-educa-
ted people, in the sense of the French "cf?Tfl7ig(?r," or
the English "do," in such words as to fix the hair, the
table, the fire, &c., which I presume means to dress the
hair, lay the table, make up the fire, &c.

The dilemma in which we were placed, was soon
overcome, and we found ourselves snugly seated on
our trunks, placed on the dirt car, drawn by horses, in
which way we entered Hagerstown in full trot, of
' oivrse making as much display as we could with pro-
priety, nevertheless our carriages not being of the high-
est and most extravagant finish.

Hagerstown, with a population of 7197, is situated
west of the Blue Ridge, on Antictsm creek, in the cen-
tre of a fertile and beautiful valley, in the midst of a
very flourishing German settlement. The town is reg-
ularly built, the streets being broad, straight and well
paved. There is here a very beautiful Court-House,
erected at a cost of fifty thousand dollars. There are-
also here nine large, fine churches.

The morning after my arrival, I entered an old stage
for Winchester, in Virginia, which I soon found waa
not as comfortable as the dirt cars, by iiity per cent,
but was the best I could do. After scores of jolts and
thumps, we arrived at Williamsport, a very beautiful
little town of 500 inhabitant^:, situated at the junclioa
of the Conecocheague river with the Potomac. The
Cliesnpeake and Ohio canal passes through this place

R O U T R .

i(S3

and crosses the Conecocheague river hy a utone aque-
duct, of one hundred and thirty-four paces, or lour hun-
dred and two feet in length, supported in the centre by
three very beautiful arches.

At Williamsport we crossed the raging Potomac,
which had been swelled to a fearful extent by the re-
cent rains. The ferry-boat however, by first going a
considerable distance up the river and then crossing,
secured the landing on the Virginia shore ; and after
travelling lengthwise through Berkeley county, I ob-
served the crops not already gathered, were heavy and
flourishing. Leaving Martinsburg at 2 o'clock, I arri-
ved in the evening at Winchester, from which I had
set out.

It was with no small delight that I again entered
Winchester, which I had left nearly three months be-
fore, during which time I travelled over the following
route, as a general course, without taking into consid-
eration or account the excursions and perambulations,
viz : to the city of Washington ; thence to Baltimore ;
thence up the Chesapeake bay to Frenchtown ; thence
across the State of Delaware to New Castle ; thence up
the Delaware river to Camden ; thence across the State
of New Jersey to South Amboy ; through the bay and
strait of Amboy to the city of New York, thence up
the Hudson river to Albany ; thence west, up the Mo-
hawk valley, and through western New York to the
city of Buffalo on Lake Erie; thence down the banks
of the Niagara river to Lewiston ; thence down the riv-
er Niagara and across Lake Ontario, to the city of To-
ronto, in the Home District in Upper Canada; thenco

i6i

R U t E i

down Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence, to the
city of Quebec in Lower Canada. From Quebec I a-
gain sailed up the St* Lawrence, as far as the city of
Montreal ; thence southeast to St. John's on the river
Sorell ; thence up that river and Lake Champlain to
White Hall J thence South to Saratoga Springs; thence
north through Lake George and across Lake Champlain
to the city of Burlington, in the State of Vermont,
thence up the Onion valley and continuing an east
course, to the White Mountains in the State of New
Hampshire ; thence southeast to the city of Portland in
the State of Maine ; tlience through the bay of Casco
and up the Kennebeck river, to Augusta, the capital of
the State ; thence across the country to Belfast on the
Penobscot bay ; thence up the Penobscot river to the
city of Bangor ; thence northeast across the country to
Calais, on the St. Croix river ; thence down the St.
Croix river and through Passamaquoddy bay, to St.
John's in New Brunswick j thence across the bay of
Fundy to Annapolis in Nova Scotia; thence northeast
to Cape Blomidon ; thence across the Basin of Minesto
South Joggins ; thence south to Windsor ; thence a-
cross the country to the city of HaUfax, on the Atlan-
tic shore; thence by steam ship to Boston, in the State
ot Massachusetts ; thence up the Merrimack valley, to
Concord, the capital of New Hampshire, and back to
Boston on the same route ; thence southeast by the way
of Plymouth, to Martha's Vineyard; thence northwest
across Vineyard Sound and up Narragansett bay, to the
city of Providence, in the State of Rhode Island ;
thence up the Blackstone valley to Worcester, in Mas*

ASPECT OF THK ROUtS.

465

sachusetts; thence west to Springfield ; thence down
the Connecticut valley, to the city of New Haven in
the State of Connecticut ; thence down Long Island
Sound to the city oi New York ; thence southwest
tlirough the State of New Jersey by the way of Tren-
ton, to the city of Philadelphia in Pennsylvania ; thence
up the Schuylkill valley to Pottsville, in the coal re-
gions ; thence west to Harrisburg, on the Susquehanna
river ; thence through the Cumberland valley, to Ha-
gerstown in the State of Maryland ; thence south to
Winchester, in Virginia.

That portion of the Northern States and the Cana-
das through which this route led, presented every va-
riety of mountain, hill, plain and valley. The Apa-
lachian or Alleghany range, extends through the for-
mer region, from southwest to northeast, in several par-
allel ridges, which attains in Pennsylvania its widest
limits. None of these however, reach the elevation of
the highest summits of the Blue Ridge, or the White
Mountains. The Alleghany range is generally cover^
ed with forests, and contains many wild solitudes sel-
dom trodden by the foot of man, affording shelter to
various species of game. The mineral products of the
Middle States are various and valuable. Bituminous
and anthracite c ^al, several kinds of iron ore, salt, &c.
and excellent building materials, together with clays
useful in the arts, are among the treasures in which it
abounds. Mining industry has acquired importance
from the activity and success with which it has lately
been pushed. The public works in this section are

particularly remarkable for their number ~nd magni-
20*

! il

M-y

illTl RKVII'W OF Tin: MIOni.K AM) Ki^STLRX flTATKJ:.

tude. In general, the soil is fertile, and particularly
favorable to the production of every species of grain.
Wheat is the principal object of culture. — Indian corn,
rye and barley are also very extensively raised. The
fruits common to the temperate regions, are abundant
and of an excellent quality. The commerce of the
Middle States is immense, and chiefly carried on thro'
the cities of New York and Philadelphia, to which it
centres. The trade however, of a considerable part ot
Pennsylvania and Delaware, flows to Baltimore.

The surface of ihe New England States is infinitely
varied. In the interior it is mountainous, with fertile
valleys between. The land along the sea shore pre-
sents in general an irregular surface, consisting of hills
and ridges^ with flats of moderate extent. The inland
portion towards the mountains, presents an almost con-
stant succession of short hills and narrow valleys. —
There are no extensive plains throughout the whole of
New England. Much of the soil is good, yet in gen*
eral it requires diligent cultivation, and compels the
farmer to use great industry to procure good crops \ and
although it well repays the labor of the husbandman,
it is perhaps on the whole, less fruitful than many oth-;
er parts of the United States.

A very active commerce is carried on from the porta
of New England, with all parts of the world. Their
ships spread their sails in every sea, and her lumber,
manufactures, and the produce of her fisheries are ex-^
tensively exported. Almost every village carries on
some handcrafl, and the farmer often employs the long
winter evenings in some gainful task. Thqs are pro-^

aEViRW OP TWR Mmm.R and k.artkhn staTk». 467

iluced many little objects, which although in them-
selves, arc of small value, yet in the aggregate, consti*
tute a source of considerable wealth to the community,
and are produced to such an extent, as almost to rival
in value the products of the large manufacturing estab-
lishments.

A large proportion of these vast regions is suscepti-
ble of cultivation nevertheless, including a great vari-
ety of surface, soil and climate, yet it is of a quality
calculated to repay the labor bestowed upon it. A
considerable portion of its surface is occupied by moun-
tains, which from their height and ruggedness, forbid
all attempts to render them productive in the means
of subsistence to man. There are no deserts of any
great extent, and few barrens — nothing like the vast
sterile plains which exist in other parts of the world.
These same regions also embrace a variety of climate,
as we find the summits of some mountain peaks capped
for six months, others for eight months, while Mount
Washington and some others of nearly equal height,
are crowned with snow for ten months in the year,
while the valleys are clothed in the most luxuriant ver-
dure. The winters are long and severe. Snow often
falls to the depth of three or four feet, and the cold is
so piercing, as to oblige the inhabitants to make very
diligent provision against it. Spring returns late in
April, and in summer the heat is great.

No part of the world can be more abundantly wat-
ered by streams, which not only give fertility to their
borders, but are ready to watt the gifts of the soil to the
ocean, and bring back to the inhabitants the products

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4^8 REVIEW OF THE MIDDLC AND EASTERN Sf ATKj.

of all other climes. Neither the States nor individuals
have been slow in improving and extending these nat-
ural advantages ; and the spirit with which they have
been undertaken and the perseverance they have shown
in executing the most magnificent plans, have shed a
lustre on the American name. All the various obsta-
cles in the navigation of the most important rivers,
have been overcome, by removing the bars or ledges
which obstructed their channels, or by side-cuts, locks
and dams. These great improvements have already
given fresh life? to manufactures, and encouraged the
establishment rf new ones; invigorated, and in many
places created internal trade ; promoted agriculture,
which requires a cheap and easy transportation for the
bulky articles which it consumes and produces ; and
developed in an astonishing degree, the mining indus-
try of the country.

The inhabitants of the Middle and Eastern States
have equally surpassed all other people in the number
and extent ot their Railroads, having in about fifteen
years, constructed nearly four thousand miles of these
artificial levels, over which cars are propelled by lo-
comotive steam-engines, at the rate of from 20 to 30
miles an hour. Although this contrivance is less a-
dapted than canals to the conveyance of bulky arti-
cles, yet in these regions, it possesses considerable ad-
vantages over that mode of transport : puch as that of
not being interrupted by, and being suited to, certain
localities, in which artificial water communication
would be impracticable.

The manufactures of those regions are very exten-

REVinW OF THE MIDDLE AND EASTKUN STATES. 4tJ9

»ive. The different establishments of various kinds are
too numerous to specify, a few of which have ahvady
been sketched. The cotton factories in particular, em-
ploy a vast number of hands and a great amount of cap-
ital. Many of those ebtablishnients are of recent ori-
gin, yet in their infancy as they are, they have risen
to great respectability, though being as yet, ovt»rbalan-
ced bv agriculture and commerce. No country in the
world can compete with those regions, in the article
of coarse cotton goods, neither as to quality or price.
Cottons, which in 1812, were worth 25 cents a-yard,
can now be bought of a better quality for 7 or 8 cents.
And even in the finer quality of goods, great advance-
ment has been made. It was the policy of the British
government before the revolution, to discourage Amer-
ican manufactures, and thus to keep the country in a
state of great dependence. But that has gone by, and
should events ever cut off a supply of British manufac-
tures, the country could do without them, unless Great
Britain and other countries shall consent in a fair way,
to receive American breadstuffs in exchancre for their
manufactures.

In so great a reojion, manners and societv are also
varied. In the New England States, the inhabitants
are almost exclusively of unmixed English origin, and
though never united as a political whole, they have at
different periods been connected for their common in-
terests. From the earliest settlement of their country,
they have enjoyed peculiar advantages for literary and
religious instruction, and trained to habits of industry,
economy and enterprise, by the circumstances of their

I !l

fj^^ajess

SSW!!aS3!K»«»ffl«i!2r,a

iTO REVIEW or TlIK MIDULtt AND BASTICRN ?>TATK4.

peculiar situation, as well as by the dangers of pro-
longed wars, they present traits of character which are
considered as remarkable abroad, as they arc common
at home. — While on the other hand, the Middle States
were originally settled by people of various countries,
having different habits, leelings and opinions. Socie-
ty therefore, does not possess that uniform character
which admits of a general description. The people
have not that luiity of feeling and interest which is ob-
served in the New England and Southern States ; and
the only reason for their being classed together, is
their contiguity. They are slow in uniting for any
public purpose, and there seems to be but little sympa-
thy or conunon feeling, which prompts them to act in
concert for i)ublic affairs. The grojit body is of Brit-
ish descent; but in New York and Maryland there are
niany d'ernmiis, and in l*ennsylvania they are so nu-
merous as to constitute in some respects, a separate
conununity, retaining their own language, and being
often ignorant of English. In New York and New
Jersey, there are many descendants of the original
Dutch settle i\s of New Amsterdam, and in some sec-
tions the Dutch language is partially spoken. It is im-
possible, therefore, for an untravelled author, aiid a
farmer at that, to picture with any degree of satisfac-
tion, the heterogeneous customs and fashions developed
in such a sociotv.

The stranger may see thousands of forlorn pessons,
from the London street-walker, to thejblack-eyed dam-
sels who hailed from every clime, all of whom have
wandered hither; and the saloons re-echo with the

&F.V1BW or ntu mvvLiL and i^asixrn mtatks. 47!

•«•»

minstrolsy of every land. Here he may hear voices
and harpd of singing men and women, from ahnoit ev-
ery region of the world; he may be entertanied with the
music and dances of parties, whose performance re-
minds him of the exhibitions of the Choctaws or kin-
dred tribes. — Or he may witness the singular antics of
a troupe of dark brown Gipsies, whose supple move*
ments, melodious voices and brilliant eyes, with lids
and lashes dyed like these of the Egyptian almahs. —
The gipsey dance, although very much in step and
movement, like what is often called a regular heel and
toe, excels it much in quickness and animation. The
male performer holds himself erect, looking daggers,
by the appearance of his desperate Irowns, and the fe-
male indulging in wanton movements, while both are
exhorted to "put it down," by the wild and exciting
chorus of the gipsey band.

Among the multifarious population of those regions,
may be seen many Jews ; which singular people are al-
most invariably clothed in long black tunics, reaching
nearly to the ankle. Their beards are mostly long and
flowing, and in thoir thin sallow faces v e read the pa-
tience and the craft for which thoy ha\ u been remark-
able. Being parsimonious, industrious and sober, they
profit by the wealth of the land, and become largely
engaged in the trade and commerce ot our country.

Education is here more universal than in .uiy other
part of the world. It is exceedingly hard to find per-
sons ot mature age, (except they be aliens,) who have
not been instructed in the common branches of school
(earning ; and as a general thing, it may be said their

472 REVIK\y OF TMR MiDDLK AND EASTERN STATE?.

education does not merely instruct thorn in the arts of
reading and writing, but that whole system of moral,
iniellectual and religious training and cultivation, which
is necessary to develope the nobler faculties of our na-
ture, and give to the character of man, the impress and
likeness of Him, in whose image he was created. In-
stitutions of learning and education were established at
an early period, by the first aettlers of New England,
some ot which at the present day, are the most re-
spectable and efficient in the Union. A large portion
of the distinguished men of the United States have
been educated at Harvard and Yale Colleges ; and tho'
there are many similar institutions in other States, still
many students from the South and West are annually
taught in the Colleges of New England.

The noble institutions of this kind, of the Middle
and Eastern sections of the Union, have made the path-
way to honorable distinction, as broad and as straight
from the door of the humblest cottage, as from the
proudest mansion in the land. Genius, and industry,
and energy find no barriers to arrest their career. The
abolition of arbitrary distinctions and classes of society,
has given all men an equal start in the race of prefer-
ment, and brought thousands of eager competitors into
the field, whose nobler faculties would otherwise have
remained forever undeveloped. The whole talent of
the country is thus forced inio action ; and the results
are visible in every vocation in life. The results can
be seen in agricultural fairs, in exhibition-rooms, and
also in the Patent Office, where the stranger may ex-
amine the specin^eni of New England ingenuity and

liKvn:w or nn: middle and lastern sTAtEs. 473

bkill which arc there displu^'ed. There wo have visi-
ble and significant monuments of the genius and indus*
try of these people. In the;ie same regions, we may
sec many men givinj.^ direction to thi* policy of their
country, who in early youth guided the plow, or wield-
ed the hammer or the axe. — And even in the capitol

ol the Ui

ol th(

le union, may De seen many oi tnose same men,
sitting in high places of the land and shedding lustre
on the Republic, who at one time made the anvil of
lapstonc ring with their vigorous blows, or plied the
busy needle, or with their own brawny arms, brought
into action that most potent of all human agents — the
printing press.

It is the object of the people of those regions, as
their institutions as well as ours, rest upon the virtue
and intelligence of tiie people, to difi'use knowledgef
and sound principlrs amongst them, and keep them if
possible, up to the level of their institutions, and teach
them their duties under their institutions. It this is
not done, it is evident the governnifiit must sink to
their level. Let the people become ignorant and de-
based, and the laws must be adapted to their capacity,
and the Constitution of the land brought down to their
standard ol morality and intelligence. — Public senti-
ment will become vitiated, and a spirit of licentious-
ness and disorganization pervade the whole body of
society. It requires no spirit of prophecy to foretell
the consequences of such a state of things. If the foun-
dation of our political edifice becomes rotten, the su-
perstructure must inevitably fall. It is to be regret-
ted, that some of the other States of the T;iiion do no^

474 REV^IW OF THE MIDDLE AND EASTERN kTAT£».

take the same measures the better to prevent such a
disaster, as they are all perfectly aware that the en-
croachments of the executive power upon popular priv-
ilege, is always in proportion to the decline in the
standard of virtue and intelligence. The pages of his-
tory abound with admonitions on this subject, which
are no less frequent than impressive. An ignorant
populace has always been the instrument by which
ambition and treason have accomplished their unhal-
lowed designs. — And if, in the progress of events the
day shall ever arrive, in which some artful demagogue
or bold military chieftain, shall erect a throne upon the
ruins of the Constitution of our country, his pathway
to power will be strewed with the fragments of the
pulpits, the school-houses and the printing-presses of
the Middle and Eastern States, which now sow the
seeds of virtue and knowledge broadcast through the
land.

It may with some propriety be said, that the Middle
and Eastern States of the Union govern to a considera-
ble extent, the spirit of the age. — And happily for man-
kind, there are none who can escape the powar of this
age ; and no one can tell how great may be its influ-
ence upon the princes and people of the kingdoms and
empires of the world. The exercise of despotic power
has always been precarious, in ages which could not
boast the superior intelligence of the nineteenth cen-
tury. The day is past when despotism can contend
iuccessfuily against the ceaseless encroachments, and
the sure, though almost imperceptible advances of free-
dom. The unconquerable spirit of intelligence, ever

C O N C L u a I o %* ,

475

on the advance, too vigjilant and too crafty for the sen-
tinel, passes the barrirr Mns«^«>rt, and whispers things
which will one day be proc!airnrd aloud. We have
seen this glorious spirit growing and expanding, until
France and nearly all Germany rejoices in its name,
and we witness its perfection and most noble results in
the incomparable happiness of our blessed country. —
This irresistible spirit — the intelligent, thoughtful, re-
ligious spirit of the age, is effecting reform throughout
Europe. We hear of its clamoring at the portals of
the Austrian Empire, ana tapping for admittance to
every council chamber. — It even addresses the judg-
ment and the virtues of the Russian Czar, and begs to
be established beneath the fostering rod of his prodi-
gious power.

THE END.

£ R R A T A.

Page 27, lino 25, should read 'Hn a hall 02feethngj ^Afeet
wide and 36 feet high.^^

'■ \ ^^70 feet above tiie riivr.^^ '

^'Amboy straitJ^

<'//js wife."

^'seated close bv."

''Col. Fleury.'^'

^Hhrough a canal."

''1G86.''

"Foxes Kill, Rutten Kill, and

''he was master of."
'•'•rivea rocks."
^'-leave a name."
'•between themP
"dilute it with water."
"clay or tiie pipesJ'
^hww runs."
^^Shooting Galleries."
"carry off the «Wnc."
^'Sawyers river."
^^and finished in 1742, or."
"splendid granite structure."
"with tivo small children."

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