IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) k A A « ^ sg 1.0 I.I bi|2£ 125 ^ lift ^ IU£ 12.0 2.2 IL25 iu IU£ — A" V] ^>. /g O;? '^ Photographic Sdences Corporation \ A V •^ "% .V 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 873-4503 ) f/ ^o CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques k'^ '<^ Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has Attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D D n n Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagie Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurie et/ou pellicul6e I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes giographiques en couleur Coloured init (i.e. other than blue or blaclc)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serrde peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intirieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 fiimdes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppldmentaires; The to tl Linstitut a microfilmd le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique. qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la methods normale de filmage sont indiqu^s ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur □ Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes n Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurdes et/ou pellicul^es Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tachetdes ou piqudes □ Pages detached/ Pages ddtachdes Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Qualitd indgale de I'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du matdriei suppl^mentaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible The post of tl film Oric beg the sion othe first sion or il [771 Showthrough/ |~~1 Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ I I Only edition available/ The shal TIN! whit IVIap diffe entii begii right requ metl Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have be««n refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t^ fiimdes d nouveau de fa9on d obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiqud ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X y mm^^ 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here hes been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: National Library of Canada L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grdce d la g6ndro8it6 de: Bibliothdque nationale du Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol ^^ (mtaaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimis sont film6s en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaTtra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le iiombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^ 1^ National Library Bibliotheque nationale of Canada du Canada A SUMMER TRIP TO GJ^lSTJt^lDJi^. By a. S. LONDON: CITY OF LONDON PUBLISHING COMPANY, 5 FRIAR STREET, BROADWAY, E.C. 1^ * f i •^' 1 LONDON : PRINTED BY THE CITY OF LOJ^DON PUBLISHING COMPANY, 5 FKIAK, STREET, BROADWAY, B.C. PREFACE. The writer does not profess to entire accuracy in all her statements, as much she heard she had no means of verify- ing, but general observations must be taken for what they are worth. The object in writing these pages is to induce ladies to go to Canada, or the States for their summer trips, instead of confining themselves to the Conti- nent, or the British Isles. People in health could probably do more than was possible (and very likely at a little less cost), for us to do, as our trip was avowedly for health's sake; and the writer's powers were very limited. There are no difficulties that ladies IV PREFACE. cannot overcome, the expense is little greater than going on the continent, and an immense amount of pleasure and good to mind and body is obtaixied. The utter rest, and "no post" on board steamer can be obtained under no other conditions, and for all wearied by any of life's strains, a trip to Canada will prove the highest tonic. May many do as we did, and have as much and more enjoyment is the writer's earnest wish. Clifton, August, 1885. SUMMER TRIP TO CANADA CHAPTER I. LIVERPOOL TO QUEBEC. On a fine Thursday afternoon in June, 1883, we found ourselves on the Liverpool landing-stage, with a company of other people bound for the west. The emigrants and other steerage passengers were first conveyed to the Allan steamer, Polynesian^ which lay in the river, outward bound ; being followed by the tug containing the saloon passengers and their friends soon after 4 p.m. The Polynesian^ one of the finest of Messrs. Allan's boats, was soon reached. The luggage and everything being on board, the tug and those return- A SUMMER TRIP ing to land left us, iind about 5 p.m. the anchor was drawn up, and we were off. Very rapidly we steamed down the Mersey, passed New Brighton, and out to sea, so that when we came up after dinner only faint outlines of land were to be seen. Early next morning we rounded the north coast of Ireland, and about 8.45 a.m. cast anchor in Lough Foyle, off Movillo, County Londonderry, to await the arrival of the mails from all parts, which are shipped here for the New World. The day was a fine one, and while wait- ing some of the passengers landed, but the majority remained inactively on board, making advances in knowledge of one another. The Lough is a deep indentation in the land, capable of holding a great number of ships, but only one lay near us at this time — the AncJwria, a White Star steamer, bound for New York, and now also waiting for mails. These arrived in a tug about 5 P.M., and the United States' bags having been taken on board, the Canadian ones were brought to us, and TO CANADA. both steamers speedily got under way, following one another rapidly out into the broad Atlantic. Tlie number of mail- bags which we watched tumbled below seemed to us enormous, but probably it was only an ordinary mail, though the repre- S(nitative of Her Majesty's postmaster was occupied for several days in arranging the letters, and preparing them for their several destinations. Once out on the Atlantic, our experiences of mal cle mer began ; but we had only to remain m our cabin for one entire day, which, as it was our first voyage, was prol.)ably not a bad beginning. The number of people on board the Polynesian was quite equal to the population of a little town, there being over 1000, composed of more than 700 steerage passengers, above 100 of the crew, and the rest being the saloon and intermediate voyagers. Many were the nations represented in this assem- blage — the English, of course, by the greatest number ; but the Scotch, Irish, French, American, Russian, Norwegian, and Swedisli also had their representatives, to 8 A SUMMER TRIP say nothingof English and French Canadians, and Chmese, tliis last being by a pig-tailed Celestial, a kind of valet to a gentle- man on board, and a Chinese nurse to his children. The sufferings of this poor woman are better imagined than described. ''Mo no likee," was her cry, with a rush to the side of the vessel, several days after every one else had quite recovered from the effects of the Atlantic tossings. The weather was, on the whole, fine, and the ocean com- paratively smooth after the first twenty-four hours out ; but these billows are never really at rest, nor ever will be until " there is no more sea." On the Sunday, few ladies appeared at the morning service, which was held by a clergyman going out for change ; but towards afternoon they were most of them ai^ain on deck, exchan^- ing their experiences of the last, not very lively, forty-eight hours ! Life on a steamer is somewhat monoton- ous — breakfast, dinner, lunch being the chief excitements of the day. However, after we had been out a week, excitement TO CANADA. of aiiotlicr kind, in tlie siuipe of the fog, as we drc^w near the NevvfoumlUiiul coast, sprang up. Tliat ni^ht, owing to another vessel being behind us, and npparently, thougli unseen, beanng down u])un us, tlie excitement became intense. No donbt tliere was really no danger, but to our hind ears it seoned terribly alarming to hear a fog whistle behind us, and ours replying, and nothino; whatever to be seen. The whole scene was most weird, with lights at mast- head, bow, and stern, and the vessel creep- incr aloni^ at half rate in the i'o^^ which enveloped us. For three days this fog con- tinued, but on Saturday afternoon the veil lifted for a time, and land was visible on both north and south, as we had reached the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the vessel was signalled as we passed Cape liay. All next day (Sunday) the fog was thick, but it was very warm, and land was again seen between 4 and 5 p.m. The prevalence of fogs off the coast of Newfoundland and in the Gulf, is owing to the meeting of the cold currents from the Arctic regions with \i 10 ■» A SUMMER TRIP the warm ones from the south ; and as soon as the river was fully entered, anat lay before one. The charge for a guidv *br the descent is $1> and this includes the use of a dress. A dress alone is 50cts., and persons choosing to go down alone in their ordinary apparel are only charged 25cts. It is perfectly safe to go alone, provided with water- proofs and umbrellas, and not minding the wetting, which is sure to be obtained, and which adds immense pleasure to the under- taking, as who can deny that it is a never- to-be-forgotten treat to be drenched by the water of mighty Niagara ! Close to Table Rock across the road, a wooden house has been erected where curiosities are sold, and from the verandah of which good views can be obtained of the Falls, and the wide expanse of waters above them. Proceeding for about a mile above the TO CANADA. 75 Horse-shoe Fall, Clarke's Island is reached by a wooden bridge across a portion of the Rapids. Here a most extraordinary sight awaits the visitor. He is ushered into the inner room of a wooden house, and shown a deep well. In this is a churn-shaped piece of wood, with a long dolly-tub like handle, which is, however, hollow. To the end of this a light is applied, and ^^^ out a yard of f)ame is the result. Gl - '^cl Ailed with the water, or filled and em];* -ed, also blaze up on lighted paper bei" • placed to them. The taste of this curious liquid was not at all unpleasant, and many of the Har- rogate waters are far worse. Probably the presence of petroleum or naphtha ii le water is what occasions the flame. On it being suggested to the proprietor that he had in some way prepared the spring, a severe smile was the only reply. Some Americans evidently regarded the whole thing as a de- lusion and a snare, but it is in Canadian Territory, and, of course, the water is un- doubtedly natural. It bears the name of the Burning Spring. \ ^1 li , I .Ii 76 A SUMMKK TRIP Returning, the whole wild wilderness of raging, hurrying, whirling, eddying, water at the head of the Falls stretched before us, in velocity worse to look upon than the ocean in a storm, as it seems as though it never could be still or cease its troubling. Its monotony, for miles, is only broken by pieces of rock, and the distant islands, or pieces of wooden rafts, and the thought of any thing launched upon it filled one with the certainty that destruction only would be the result. All along the road side, between the Suspension Bridge and Table Rock, wooden houses, where curiosities and views can be obtained, have been erected. Directly op- posite the Suspension Bridge is Clifton House Hotel, whence fine views of both Falls can be obtained, and this is probably the best situated hotel in the neighbourhood. From this, the New Suspension Bridge to Clifton Station, the drive by the river of about two miles is a very pleasant one, the scent of firs and othei things, together with the delicious air and sunshine, adding much to the enjoyment of the scene. TO CANADA. 77 II The Old Suspension Bridge, erected in 1858, is crossed by tlie Grand Trunk of Canada, and the American Erie Railways. It was most interesting to see trains passing over the great river, on whose other side, at Niagara Falls Station, we had got out the night before. Underneath the railway lines is a portion of the bridge for foot and car- riage traffic, which cannot be very agree- able to use when trains are passing over. The New Suspension Bridge is much the most elegant structure of the two, as it is lighter in build than the railway one. Be- low the old bridge the Whirlpool Rapids begin and extend for some miles down stream. People descend to the river bank by an inclining railway very rapidly. Only a glimpse of the rapids was obtained, but it was easy to see that any one getting into those now so memorable waters, through the foolhardy attempt of Captain Webb, could not fail to be drowned. Turning our backs on the old bridge, the beautiful drive along the cliffs was again traversed — the Falls in the di stance looking lovely in the 1 i i! .. i 78 A SUMMER TRIP I'i sunshine. To tlie left of the new bridge (looking from Canadian Territory), is a small fall called the Bridal Veil, formerly said to have been very lovely, but now spoiled by being divided, and desecrated, to turn the wheels of a paper-mill. On reaching the bridge to return, we found that carriages or carts could only pass over singly, but on each side of the road- way was a foot-path for pedestrians, who feel the motion and vibration caused by vehicles passing at the same time as they are, very much. Our eyes lingered, feasting on that glorious scene, the foam and spray rising in front of and below the great amphitheatre of waters with the blue sky above, but on reaching the American side it was hid from view. ** speak good of the Lord all ye works of His. " * ' Praise ye the Lord. " The American Fall, Prospect Park, and Goat Island were unvisited as my powers were exhausted. Calling at a ticket office, we secured our places by railway and steamer to Toronto, and returned to Niagara House. It may be well to say that most people TO CANADA. 79 could easily do on foot all, and more than, we accomplished, and it would be pleasanter to have more time than the few l)rief hours we could spare for this most wonderful sight. The price of $5 for the carriage was exorbi- tant, and no doubt one could have been ob- tained for less, but $6 was at first asked. It is true we might have gone right down to the Whirlpool Kapids, and to the American Fall, &c., for the same money. Shortly after reaching the hotel a squall and thunder-storm came on, which made us wonder if Ontario would be passable. The wind was so high that the servants had to rush to the windows and close them as rapidly as possible. The charge at this hotel, which is a very comfort- able old-fashioned one, and is a deliglitful place for a summer holiday, is $2 a day. The food was excellent, and the attendants in t! e dining-hall were fresh complexioncd country girls who did their duties well, and were very different from the waiters, white, semi- white, brown, and black in their black clothes and white shirt fronts, iki)d ties, 80 A SUMMER TRIP K ! i who liad favoured us (and this is really true of the blacks, who are most condescending, or try to be, in manner) with their atten- tions at the other hotels. Strawberries — known as *' berries," minus ^^ straw " — were now met with continually and were good in flavour. This part of the States is specially a fruit-growing country, and strawberries and peaches are abundant in their respec- tive seasons. Egg-cups were not fashion- able, but instead glass goblets are used, the eggs after boiling being shelled and put into them, mixed together and eaten. The squall was over and the sun out again, when about 5 p.m. the omnibus carried us to the station, where we saw for the first time some of those beautiful fans made by the Indians, in feathers coloured pink, purple, grey, &c. At last the train rushed up and the passengers got in, only to wait outside the station for some time, apparently until an express had dashed by. Along the river's bank we went, with lovely passing views of the Falls receding from us, and, though the atmos- TO CANADA. SI phere was somewhat thickened by the rain, the clouds of foam and spray rising above them were very distinguishable. Presently the train was going alongside the Whirlpool Rapids, the waters of which dashed in great fury through the narrowed and rugged bed of the river for more than a mile. The colour of the water was a lovely green blue, which mingled beautifully with the masses of foam and spray caused by the rushing, and foaming, and eddying, of the upper and lower currents. No living thing could possibly live in such a whirlpool, and why the authorities permitted Captain Webb to make his rash attempt to swim through it is inexplicable. The trees and shrubs looked beautifully fresh after the rain of the morn- ing, which, indeed, had not entirely passed away. A high column in Canadian terri- tory was pointed out to us as having been erected in memory of General Brook, one of the heroes of the Colonial wars. Lewis- ton station was reached about 5.45, but an insufficiency of cars or omnibuses, to convey the passengers to the pier, occasioned III 82 A SUMMER TRIP I some delay. At last, by the return of two or three, all were accommodated, as none could walk owing to the muddiness of the roads. After a drive of about three- quarters of a mile, and a descent of a great number of wooden steps, the steamer Chicora was reached, and in the rain and mist we steamed down the Niagara River and out into Lake Ontario. On board this steamer the farce of the Custom-house officers had again to be enacted, on entering Canadian territory. At first, the officers put on a very cross appearance, as though they in- tended to be very strict ; but when the moment for examination really arrived, they took but a cursory glance at the boxes, &c. Till nearly 7.30 p.m. the rain and mist lasted, and when able to leave the cabir and go out on deck, we found ourselves far out of sight of land, in the middle of the Lake. At length the islands in front of, and the city of Toronto came in view, and gradually her lights were lighted, and came out dis- tinctly. After a good deal of steering about from one lighthouse to another, the port i; TO CANADA. 83 inside the islands and sandbanks was reached, and we and our luggage were landed in the darkness on the pier of Toronto. Guided by a porter, the omnibus of Rossin House was found, and after being jolted through pome sort of yard invisible in the darkness, having waited at a railway crossing for a train to pass, yelling and toll- ing its bell, and proceeding up an ill-paved street, this hotel was safely reached at about 8.30 P.M. i S4, A SUMMER TRIP CHAPTER VII. TORONTO. Toronto is situated in the province of Ontario, on the north-eastern corner of the Lake of that name, and is accessible very easily^ both from all parts of Canada and from the United States. It is an eminently English-peopled city, in opposition to the French-peopled Montreal and Quebec. Its situation is a commanding one, as it lies on ground which slightly rises from the lake shore. Its former name was York, called ^* muddy and little " at the begmning of this century; but the fair and stately i)ropor- tions of the great and clean Toronto of to-day, with its 100,000 inhabitants, cannot 60 be designated, and it is now the largest and wealUvvest city in Upper Canada, with a very K'OiU aniv>un^ of corimerce. The streets are w !d<» and well laid out ; trees have in TO CANADA. 85 many places been planted on each side of them, and tram-cars run in several direc- tions. The port of Toronto has many quays and docks, which, as we entered the har- bour, seemed to stretch north and south for a long distance. In front of the cicy are islands and sandbanks, which make the harbour a very safe place of refuge from the squalls and storms that so often visit the Lake. Between the islands and the shore is a sort of lagoon, to enter which is difficult, so lighthouses have been erected at different points to enable the steamers and other vessels to find the right channel. On what is called '' The Island," which has a large lighthouse on it, lodging-houses have been erected, and it is used as a summer resort by the citizens «^ Toronto. It is about two miles from tl mainland, and a line of steamers run to iid fro con- tinually. Rossin House is one of the . argest hotels in the city, being capable of accommodating nearly 300 people at once, and is well and comfortably kept. It is at the corner of York * ^ s> >» 6^ 92 A SUMMER TRIP 1 1 the centre of a rapidly extending net-work of railways, and has an importance which must be far greater in the future." With regard to the Parliament Houses mentioned, it may be well to state that the members of the Dominion Parliament meet- ing at Ottawa are M,P's, as those who meet at St. Stephen's. There are, however, as well, M.P.P's., who are members of the Provincial Parliaments meeting for local matters in these Houses in Toronto, Quebec and other cities. Before the union of the various States, these provincial Parliaments enacted laws, &c., and did all other busi- ness, but their power is now much cur- tailed ; and law-making for the Dominion is confined to the Dominion Parliament, which is divided into two parties as in England, the Ministerialists and the Opposi- tion. The names of Sir Alex. Gait, Sir M. Tupper, Sir Leonard Tully, &c., will be remembered as those of distinguished Cana- dian Statesman. Visiting fellow travellers that evening at Walker House Hotel, we heard that a home 1] TO CANADA. 93 in connection with Dr. Barnardo's work in London was being established in Toronto. A hundred boys, saved from Arab life on the streets of London, came out in the Polynesian with us. All had safely reached their destinations, which had been arranged before they left England. In two or three cases where the boys had been too little or young for the work required, other families had gladly taken them ; and these lads, instead of wandering about London, are well-provided for, for life, in many cases the farmers adopting them as their own children. This work, and all others with a similar object both for boys and girls, cannot be too heartily wished, God speed. Quantities of bicyclists were at this time pouring into this hotel — which appeared to be the headquarters of some club — appar- ently taking a tour over the continent. The next morning we obtained some of the beautiful Indian feather fans, and a few more keepsakes of our Canadian tour, and secured our places on the river-boat for Kingston, the Thousand Islands, Montreal, »• 1^'T\ A I il i I 94 A SUMMER TRIP and Quebec. These tickets cost $10 50 cts. each, for a journey of over 300 miles, lasting about 42 hours, if it is not broken on the way. The charge at Rossin House was $2 50 cts. per day. There are several other Parks in Toronto, as Bellwood, Lome, and Victoria, also some colleges, as Trinity, Knox's, and St. Michael's, together with other edifices, which we had not time to visit. A run over to the Island had, for the same reason, to be given up. TO CANADA. 95 CHAPTER VIII. TOKONTO TO QUEBEC. About 2 p.m. the omnibus conveyed us down to the pier whence the Montreal boats started. The steamer was speedily crowded, — too crowded for comfort, as we afterwards found, — ^with passengers bound down the river. Another steamer, probably the Chicora, preceded ours (the Corinthian), conveying a number of the before-mentioned bicyclists to Niagara, whether to perform feats over the Falls or not, we did not hear. Threading her way carefully through the sandbanks and islands, the Corinthian was soon in the open lake (a good view of the Islands and its various buildings being obtained as she passed), and gradually beautiful Toronto, with its many spires and towers, receded from view. When out in the lake it was quite cool, and a good deal :l, i 96 A SUMMER TRIP 1 1* ;, I'! ! of wind blowing, so that the passengers were glad to take refuge in the cabin on deck, a fine large room with many sleeping cabins opening out of it. Eight out in the middle of Lake Ontario, which is 180 miles long, and has an average width of 40 miles, is almost like being at sea. To the north no land was to be seen, and only very in- distinct outlines were visible to the south. From the number of passengers on board the steamer, a sleeping cabin was unobtain- able, as Canadians and others in the habit of travelling in this way had secured them all, so sofas in the ladies' saloon being all that could be got, an uncomfortable night was the result. Others were, however, worse off than we, as they had to content themselves with sofas or chairs in the large saloon outside, ladies and gentlemen together. Kingston was reached about 5 a.m., when, though some passengers left, others came on board and the crowd increased. Soon the passage of the Thousand Islands began, and lovely they are in their diverse shapes, forms, and sizes, some well wooded, and TO CANADA. 97 others barren. Our course lay on the American side of the river, and Thousand Island House, a big hotel, and favourite summer abode of travellers, Nobley's Island, and many others, came in view. The river here, as lower down, is navigated by the aid of small red and white light- houses, either singly or in groups of two or three on a promontory, or island, first on one side then on the other. Among the islands a sailing vessel had gone down, and only her masts remained above water to tell the tale. Brocksville, a large town where a number of canoes were out and paddled round the steamer, was one of the places called at. It is in the province of Ontario. A curious thing about these steam-boats of the upper river is, that they have two or three loose spars hanging to their sides, which, when they come up to a landing stage, bump first against it, and seem to save the apparently most fragile craft from being damaged by at once giving way and receiv- ing the first shock. Once or twice getting up to a pier seemed an object too difficult of a wu ^^'' ' 98 A SUMMER TRIP I: I I ! 1 h f ■' execution, but by frantic yelling at the man at the boilers this was overcome, and we swung to. Another place of interest was Prescott, also on the Canadian bank, 'Wiience people go up to Ottawa some 20 or 30 miles to the north, which was, we heard, quite an English sort of town, and as the seat of the Dominion Government well worthy of a visit. Ogdensburg, U.S., is a large city with im- portant iron manufactures, and is almost opposite to Prescott. Some way below them the first rapids are reached, which are not very great, but shortly afterwards came those of Long Sault. How the steamer did plunge ! The waters were like a boiling cauldron, and foamed and dashed about, over hidden and uncovered rocks, like the angry sea. They probably took ten minutes to shoot, during which the utmost excitement prevailed among the passengers, many of whom forsook their dinner to see what was going on. At the side of these rapids, and al so of those of Lachine above Montreal and others, canals have had to be cut for boats going up stream, as it would be impossible for TO CANADA. 90 thein to make any way against such a cur- rent. In former days portage was resorted to, when Indians and voyagers carried their boats bodily from bottom to top of the rapids, but with the steamers of to-day such a thing is not possible. It even now takes double, or nearly double, the time to go by boat from Montreal to Toronto, to what it does coming down the stream. Shortly after this the river widened into Lake St. Francis, which is 25 miles long by 5^ broad. On it were a few ducks, the first native birds seen since our arrival in Canada. Towns and villages were visible in the distance on its banks, and various boats and steamers skim- med about. Coteau du Lac on this lake was our destination, and here, about 4.30 p.m., we and two other passengers were left with our baggage. How curious it was, and yet pleasant, to find ourselves on that small wooden pier in Lake Francis, Ontario, Canada, almost alone ! A long wooden pier was the means of communication with the mainland, along which, however, we did not penetrate. The scenery for the preceding 100 A SUMMER TRIP i0' 1* j twelve hours hud in many places been varied and picturesque, but there is nothing grand or beautiful in this part of the river. Time passing and no one appearing to meet us, we ascertained, on enquiring from a boy, whose patois it was dilBcult to understand, that the ferry-boat to the village we were going to had broken down, and would certainly not arrive that day. We knew not what we should do, but to our relief, presently, two boats were seen shooting out of an arm of the lake lying to the south east. Ere long they reached the landing-stage, and being escorted to one of them, we had a most de- licious row over beautiful tranquil water in the Canadian evening to Valleyfield. This village is on an arm of the lake, close to where steamers and other boats enter the canal for passing Cedar Eapids, and a pleasant resting-place it proved, for a couple of days, before proceeding down the river to Quebec. It has a population of about 4000, who are chiefly Roman Catholics, and under the dominion of the priest. Here, as else- where, he is the power, and often he is the TO CANADA. 101 sole upholder of law and order. A large cotton mill has been built in this village, after the English fashion, the greater part of the machinery coming from England, and gives employment to about 800 people. The rest are chiefly farmers and labourers. The chief buildings besides tlie mill are the Roman Catholic Church and a pretty little Presbyterian one. The Church of England is not strong in the outlying districts and villages in the Provineo of Quebec. Many interesting particulars of Canadian life were given us while here. During the winter all communication with Montreal or other cities is by sleighs across the ice. The animals, cows and horses, are never let out, and in many cases are kept in houses joining, or under, human habitations, that they may be kept warm, and easily reached to be fed. Pipes line the rooms, which are filled with steam or hot water, and as equable a tem- perature as possible is maintained. In the spring, when the ice breaks up, the most ex- citing scenes occur. People have to use the utmost caution not to be on it then (as it 102 A SUMMER TRIP 1 ill breaks up suddenly with groat noises of cracking and bursting), or they are drowned at once. About six weeks after the thaw has finished, the first hay crops are got in, and a few weeks later the second are reaped, so prolific is the ground. It is the same with vegetables and other produce, which speedily attain maturity. At night we were lulled to sleep by the croaking of the bull-frog, which sounded like the lowing of cattle, and fire-flies, like meteors, for the moment were visible, and then disappeared in "the stilly night." The lights of a steamer were seen comparatively near the house (which was a real wooden Canadian building on a platform) as she en- tered the Canal to pass the Cedar Rapids lower down the river. A new church (R.C.) was being built in this village, and all the families were taxed $100 per family for its erection, which had either to be paid in cash or worked out. Rather a large amount for poor working people, but they never thought of resisting this or other payments imposed upon them by the priests, as they are entirely in their TO CANADA. lOIJ power. If they did not pay regularly they would be punished by not having the rites of the church at baptis.n, marriage, or burial performed for them. The charge for a funeral is from SIO to $100, according to the number of masses performed for the dead, and other services are charged for equally high. On the whole, these people are an idle one, and their way is to make a little ready money and at once spend it, putting nothing by for a rainy day. Arriving at Valleyfield on a Wednesday "we stayed there until Friday, and about 2 p.m. left in the steam ferry-boat, as it was too windy to go over in a rowing boat. This arm of the Lake, on which the village is situated, is about a mile and a half long and three-quarters broad. Its entrance is marked by four lighthouses, three white and one red, which are difBcult to leach in stormy weather. The wind was pretty fresh out on the Lake, but Coteau du Lac was reached in about half-an-hour. Very punctually the steamer Corsicarij from Toronto, Kingston, and the Islands, arrived at the landing-stage, • I I I m lis Hi t! ■'». I 104 A SUMMER TRIP and we were quickly on board. She seemed even more crowded than the Corin- iJdan had been two days before. Cedar Rapids and others were soon run, and then for some distance the water was tranquil. The river about here, i.e,^ above Montreal, is very pretty, the banks being clothed with foliage, and the islands, of which there are several, being also well wooded. Cauchna- waga, an Indian village, one of the govern- ment reservations, was reached about 5.45 p.m. Its wooden houses did not look very different from ordinary ones, though perhaps the walls were a little taller, and the roofs smaller than one usually sees. Only one or two of its inhabitants, a remnant of the powerful Mohawk tribe, who gave so much trouble to the first French settlers, were visible, but a canoe, whose prow was half out of the water, and was paddled by an Indian kneeling, brought off another Indian to pilot the Corsican down the La chine Rapids. It used to be a rule of the Insur- ance Companies that they would not insure a vessel unless an Indian piloted her down TO CANADA. 105 i these Eapids, but in many cases this has now fallen into abeyance, though the owners of the upper-river steam-boats see fit still to carry it out. As soon as our Indian was at the wheel we proceeded, leaving his comrade to paddle homewards. The Corsican and the other boats of this line, the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company, are very clumsy, top-heavy, light-built things, which seem as though they would easily tumble over. It was when on one of these fragile- looking boats, crowded with people, that the far-famed and perilous Lachine Rapids came in sight. The name " Lachine " was given by some of the earlier French voyagers, who, after travelling on and on for days and weeks up the mighty river, thought, when at length they saw land before them, that they must have reached China : hence the name, ^^ La Chine," since corrupted into " Lachine." A line of rocks seemed entirely to bar further pro- gress, but, by a sharp turn of the wheel, the steamer was shot through an opening, visible only to an experienced eye, into the foaming 106 A SUMMER TRIP waters of the Eapids. A more unpleasant experience can hardly be imagined. Each moment seemed as though it might be our last. From side to side swung the pfceamer, grating against a rock here and another there, the water hissing, foaming, boiling, dashing, and apparently of no great depth. In one place the broken spars of a wrecked vessel were visible, and, a few days before, we had heard of a steamer coming to grief in these Rapids, and having to be run ashore. The steamers are entirely at the mercy of the waters, as steam is shut off, the paddles are still, and all is left to the strong hand at the wheel, and his assistants. This pilot was a powerfully built man with a dusk}'' skin, though not red or dark, dressed in English (not Indian) fashion. The pas- sengers got quite excited during our transit, and indeed climbed on chairs and seats in such a way that they had to be called to order by the captain, for obstructing the pilot's view. The water is in this eddying, whirling, engulfing looking state for more than a mile, which took about 15 minutes TO CANADA. 107 to shoot ; but presently, coming out into a broad, calm expanse of water, and turning to the left, Montreal and the Tubular Bridge lay before us. The Lachine Rapids are the most dangerous on the river, and how rafts shoot them it is difficult to imagine. The Lachine Canal, cutting through the island of Montreal in a N.E. direction, from opposite Cauchnawaga, is 8^ miles long, and 120 feet wide. By its means much of the trade of the west is brought to Montreal, which would otherwise lose it. The other name for these Rapids is Sault St. Louis. The Corsican was soon brought up at the pier of the river steamers, and from her we stepped on board the Quebec, for Quebec. Then we got a view of the Indian in the pilot box, and he appeared to have the assistance of two or three other men. For a few minutes we gazed upon Montreal, with all its churches and other edifices, and Mount Royal behind, in the evening light ; and then, time being up, started down river, for the ocean steamer Peruvian, Though the boats of the lower river are far better built, and larger than V I 108 A SUMMER TRIP those of the upper, on this journey, owing to the number of people going for summer excursions, &c., the Quebec was very crowded, and it was difficult to obtain sleeping accommodation. At last a cabin was obtained, and, turning in early, we were only disturbed by the stoppages, and similar noises to those described on the up journey, as this was the same boat. Of course one sees a great variety of people on these journeys by steam-boat. Priests, nuns, peasants, and people of other classes are noticeable, to which, on this occasion, may be added a company of English actors and actresses, homeward bound like ourselves. About 8 a.m., the Quebec arrived at Quebec, and the pas- sengers began to depart for the Saguenary River — on which there are many pleasant summer resorts, and good salmon fishing — and other places. Again Quebec, the Queen of the St. Lawrence, and Levis, her hand- maiden, lay before us ; and we watched for some time with interest the boats passing and repassing, and the ocean, and other TO CANADA. 109 steamers at anchor in the river. On land a scene, with a gcud deal of vivacity, was visible, as we were close to the Champlain Market, where a good trade seemed being carried on, and behind which a line of tram- cars was running. Up above was the Esplanade and the lines of fortifications. About 9.30 A.M. a tug arrived for the passengers for England by the Allan steamer Peruvian. They and their luggage, &c., being ^' al! aboard" by 10.30, the anchor was weighed, some rockets were fired, and we were homeward bound once more ! Down the river we sped, Quebec fading gradually from our sight as we gazed upon her regretfully for the last time. A glimpse was again caught of the Montmorency Falls, lower down the mouth of the Sague- nary River, looking very dark and gloomy, and Red Island. Rimousky was reached about 10 P.M., where a detention of nearly three hours occurred for the mails. The Peruvian was a smaller boat than the Polynesian^ having no inside cabins (a de- cided advantage), but she sped along well H i^ 110 A SUMMER TKTP and swiftly. Returning, we came through the Straits of Belle Isle, to the north of Newfoundland, thus skirting the coasts of far-famed Labrador. The land looked low and barren, but being from 10 to 12 miles distant no Esquimaux were visible. The Straits are only navigable for about three months in the year, not being free from ice when we went out in June. By this route about 200 miles are saved, as the distance this way from Quebec to Liverpool is 2,400 miles, and the other, i.e., south of New- foundland, 2,600. In the gulf, we passed numerous icebergs, but owing to the murki- ness of the weather they were not seen to advantage. They are indeed wonderful and curious looking objects, and we were told that only one-eighth of their height was visible above water, seven-eighths being below. One we saw was like a grotto, a hole having been worn in it by the action of the water and weather. Several of the passengers had crossed and re-crossed the Atlantic numbers of times, one as many as sixty, and the stories of the ** bergs," and TO CANADA. Ill what had happened in consequence of them, were th ^refore numerous. On one occasion, an outward bound steamer ran right on to one in the fog. Happily, and most un- usually, she backed off and into the water again without any damage ensuing. Others had been detained as long as three weeks at the mouth of the river, in the ice and by the fogs, their provisions almost coming to an end, and they had to be rescued by a steamer sent out to find them. We had a rapid passage home and good weather, save a little rolling — the tail end of a storm which broke much further north ; and on Sunday, July 22nd, the coast of Ire- land was seen in the distance. The sunset that evening, as we skirted it and got into Lough Foyle, was simply glorious. Its radi- ance lasted long, and was succeeded by lovely pale moonlight, as we lay in the Lough discharging mails, passengers, &c,, and went out to sea again. The longest run made going out was about 324 miles in twenty-four hours, and returning about 310 miles in the same time. The Alexandra ■ir-IJi 112 A SUMMER TRIP I Dock, Bootle, was reached about 1.30 on July 23rd, and our most delightful and never-to-be-forgotten trip was at an end. Innumerable were the mercies that had attended us, and we could not but acknow- ledge that God's protecting hand had been specially shielding and watching over us. Truly His hand alone could have made ?11 the wonders and beauties of nature, both on sea and land, we had seen. ** Oh, that men would therefore praise the Lord for His goodness, and declare the wonders that He doetli for the children of men.'' Note.' — ^The journey out was eleven days, owing to the fog, and the journey home eight, but it sometimes takes only seven.